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THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT;
Comprising Information for the
Info for the
MISTRESS, HOUSEKEEPER, COOK, KITCHEN-MAID, BUTLER, FOOTMAN, COACHMAN, VALET, UPPER AND UNDER HOUSE-MAIDS, LADY'S-MAID, MAID-OF-ALL-WORK, LAUNDRY-MAID, NURSE AND NURSE-MAID, MONTHLY, WET, AND SICK NURSES, ETC. ETC.
ALSO, SANITARY, MEDICAL, & LEGAL MEMORANDA;
ALSO, SANITARY, MEDICAL, & LEGAL MEMOS;
WITH A HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN, PROPERTIES, AND USES OF ALL THINGS CONNECTED WITH HOME LIFE AND COMFORT.
BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON.
Nothing lovelier can be found
In Woman, than to study household good.—MILTON.
Nothing more beautiful can be found
In a woman than to focus on home and family.—MILTON.
Published Originally By S. O. Beeton in 24 Monthly Parts 1859-1861.
Published Originally By S. O. Beeton in 24 Monthly Parts 1859-1861.
First Published in a Bound Edition 1861.
First Published in a Bound Edition 1861.
PREFACE.
I must frankly own, that if I had known, beforehand, that this book would have cost me the labour which it has, I should never have been courageous enough to commence it. What moved me, in the first instance, to attempt a work like this, was the discomfort and suffering which I had seen brought upon men and women by household mismanagement. I have always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than a housewife's badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways. Men are now so well served out of doors,—at their clubs, well-ordered taverns, and dining-houses, that in order to compete with the attractions of these places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as be perfectly conversant with all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable home.
I have to admit that if I had known from the start how much work this book would require, I might not have had the courage to start it. What first motivated me to take on a project like this was the discomfort and suffering I witnessed in people caused by poor household management. I've always believed that a significant source of family unhappiness comes from a housewife's poorly cooked meals and messy habits. Men today are so well taken care of outside the home—at their clubs, nice restaurants, and dining places—that to compete with these venues, a wife needs to have a solid knowledge of cooking techniques, along with being well-versed in all the other skills needed to create and maintain a comfortable home.
In this book I have attempted to give, under the chapters devoted to cookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the ingredients, a plain statement of the mode of preparing each dish, and a careful estimate of its cost, the number of people for whom it is sufficient, and the time when it is seasonable. For the matter of the recipes, I am indebted, in some measure, to many correspondents of the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine," who have obligingly placed at my disposal their formulas for many original preparations. A large private circle has also rendered me considerable service. A diligent study of the works of the best modern writers on cookery was also necessary to the faithful fulfilment of my task. Friends in England, Scotland, Ireland, France, and Germany, have also very materially aided me. I have paid great attention to those recipes which come under the head of "COLD MEAT COOKERY." But in the department belonging to the Cook I have striven, too, to make my work something more than a Cookery Book, and have, therefore, on the best authority that I could obtain, given an account of the natural history of the animals and vegetables which we use as food. I have followed the animal from his birth to his appearance on the table; have described the manner of feeding him, and of slaying him, the position of his various joints, and, after giving the recipes, have described the modes of carving Meat, Poultry, and Game. Skilful artists have designed the numerous drawings which appear in this work, and which illustrate, better than any description, many important and interesting items. The coloured plates are a novelty not without value.
In this book, I've tried to provide a clear organization for each recipe in the cooking chapters, including a list of the ingredients, a straightforward explanation of the method for preparing each dish, an accurate estimate of its cost, the number of people it serves, and when it is seasonal. For the recipes, I owe a debt of gratitude to several contributors from the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine," who generously shared their original recipes with me. I’ve also received significant help from a large circle of friends. A thorough study of works by top modern culinary writers was essential to fulfilling my task accurately. Friends from England, Scotland, Ireland, France, and Germany have also contributed greatly to my efforts. I’ve placed special emphasis on recipes for "COLD MEAT COOKERY." Additionally, I aimed to create a resource that goes beyond just a cookbook, which is why I’ve included information on the natural history of the animals and plants that we eat, tracking the animal from birth to its serving on the table, discussing how it’s fed and slaughtered, identifying the various cuts of meat, and explaining the carving methods for Meat, Poultry, and Game after providing the recipes. Talented artists created many of the illustrations in this book, which explain important and interesting details better than words alone. The colored plates are a new addition worth noting.
Besides the great portion of the book which has especial reference to the cook's department, there are chapters devoted to those of the other servants of the household, who have all, I trust, their duties clearly assigned to them.
Besides the large part of the book that specifically focuses on the cook's role, there are chapters dedicated to the other household servants, who I hope all have their responsibilities clearly defined.
Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the "Management of Children"——"The Doctor," the latter principally referring to accidents and emergencies, some of which are certain to occur in the experience of every one of us; and the last chapter contains "Legal Memoranda," which will be serviceable in cases of doubt as to the proper course to be adopted in the relations between Landlord and Tenant, Tax-gatherer and Tax-payer, and Tradesman and Customer.
Towards the end of the book, you'll find useful chapters on "Managing Children" and "The Doctor," the latter focusing mainly on accidents and emergencies that are likely to happen to all of us. The last chapter includes "Legal Notes," which will be helpful for any uncertainties about the best course of action in the relationships between Landlord and Tenant, Tax Collector and Tax Payer, and Merchant and Customer.
These chapters have been contributed by gentlemen fully entitled to confidence; those on medical subjects by an experienced surgeon, and the legal matter by a solicitor.
These chapters have been written by trustworthy experts; the medical topics by an experienced surgeon, and the legal matters by a solicitor.
I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations I have received during the progress of this work, and have only further to add, that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I have expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen and countrywomen.
I want to take a moment to thank everyone for the kind letters and congratulations I've received while working on this project. I also hope that the result of the four years of hard work I've put in will be well-received by some of my fellow countrymen and countrywomen.
ISABELLA BEETON.
GENERAL CONTENTS
CHAP.
I.—THE MISTRESS.
2.—THE HOUSEKEEPER.
3.—ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.
4.—INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.
5.—GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS.
6.—RECIPES.
7.—THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES.
8.—RECIPES.
9.—SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.—GENERAL REMARKS.
10.—RECIPES.
11.—VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.
12.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS.
13.—RECIPES.
14.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB.
15.—RECIPES.
16.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG.
17.—RECIPES.
18.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF.
19.—RECIPES.
20.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS.
21.—RECIPES.
22.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME.
23.—RECIPES.
24.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES.
25.—RECIPES.
26.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.
27.—RECIPES
28.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES.
29—RECIPES.
30.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONERY, ICES, AND DESSERT DISHES.
31.—RECIPES.
32.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.
33.—RECIPES.
34.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.
35.—RECIPES.
36.—GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES.
37.—RECIPES.
38.—INVALID COOKERY.
39.—RECIPES.
40.—DINNERS AND DINING.
41.—DOMESTIC SERVANTS.
42.—THE REARING AND MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN, AND DISEASES OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD.
43.—THE DOCTOR
44.—LEGAL MEMORANDA
ANALYTICAL INDEX.
NOTE.—Where a "p" occurs before the number for reference, the page, and not the paragraph, is to be sought.
NOTE.—Where a "p" appears before the number for reference, the page, and not the paragraph, should be looked for.
Accidents, injuries, &c. remarks on 2578
Agreements 2705-7
Alexanders 1108
Alkalis 2654
Allium, the genus 1129
Allspice 438
Almond, the 1219
Bitter 1220
Cake 1752
Cheesecakes 1219
Flowers 1316
Icing for cakes 1735
Paste, for second-course dishes 1220
Pudding, baked 1221
Puddings, small 1222
Puffs 1223
Soup 110
Tree 110, 1487
Uses of the Sweet 1221
Almonds, and raisins 1605
Husks of 1222
Anchovy, the 226
Butter 1637
Butter or paste 227
Paste 228
Sauce 362
Toast 228
Anchovies, fried 226
Potted 227
Animals, period between birth and maturity 92
Quality of the flesh of 93-5
Saxon names of 709
Tails of 640
Tongues of 675
Apoplexy 2634-6
Apple, the 111
Charlotte 1420
Charlotte aux pommes 1418
an easy method of making 1419
Cheesecakes 1226
Constituents of the 1229
Custard, baked 1389
Dumplings, baked 1225
boiled 1227
Fritters 1393
Ginger 1424, 1516
Jam 1517
Jelly 1518-19
clear 1396
or marmalade 1395
Pudding, baked, rich 1228
more economical 1229
very good 1231
boiled 1232
iced 1290
rich, sweet 1230
Sauce, brown 364
for geese or pork 363
Snow 1401
Snowballs 1235
Soufflé 1402
Soup 111
Tart, creamed 1234
or pie 1233
Tourte or cake 1236
Trifle 1404
Universally popular 1236
Uses of the 1225-6
Apples, à la Portugaise 1398
And rice 1400
a pretty dish 1397
Buttered 1390
Compote of 1515
Dish of 1603
Flanc of 1391-2
Ginger 1424
Ices 1394
In red jelly 1399
Stewed, and custard 1403
To preserve in quarters (imitation of ginger) 1520
Apprentices 2724
Apricot, cream 1405
Jam or marmalade 1522
Pudding 1238
Qualities of the 1239
Tart 1239
Apricots, compote of 1521
Flanc of 1406
Arrowroot, biscuits, or drops 1738
Blancmange 1407
Arrowroot, Manufacture of 387, 1240
Pudding, baked or boiled 1240
Sauce for puddings 1356
To make 1855
What Miss Nightingale says of 1855
Arsenic 2656
Artichoke, composite or composite flowers of 1080
Constituent properties of the 1083
Jerusalem 1086
Uses of the 1084
Artichokes, a French mode of cooking 1082
A l'Italienne 1083
Fried 1081
Jerusalem, boiled 1084
mashed 1085
soup 112
with white sauce 1086
To boil 1080
Asparagus, ancient notion of 114
Boiled 1087
Island 1087
Medicinal uses of 1088
Peas 1088
Pudding 1089
Sauce 365
Soup 113-14
Aspic, or ornamental savoury jelly 366
Attestation to wills 2750
Accidents, injuries, etc. remarks on 2578
Agreements 2705-7
Alexanders 1108
Alkalis 2654
Allium, the genus 1129
Allspice 438
Almond, the 1219
Bitter 1220
Cake 1752
Cheesecakes 1219
Flowers 1316
Icing for cakes 1735
Paste, for second-course dishes 1220
Pudding, baked 1221
Puddings, small 1222
Puffs 1223
Soup 110
Tree 110, 1487
Uses of the Sweet 1221
Almonds, and raisins 1605
Husks of 1222
Anchovy, the 226
Butter 1637
Butter or paste 227
Paste 228
Sauce 362
Toast 228
Anchovies, fried 226
Potted 227
Animals, period between birth and maturity 92
Quality of the flesh of 93-5
Saxon names of 709
Tails of 640
Tongues of 675
Apoplexy 2634-6
Apple, the 111
Charlotte 1420
Charlotte aux pommes 1418
an easy method of making 1419
Cheesecakes 1226
Constituents of the 1229
Custard, baked 1389
Dumplings, baked 1225
boiled 1227
Fritters 1393
Ginger 1424, 1516
Jam 1517
Jelly 1518-19
clear 1396
or marmalade 1395
Pudding, baked, rich 1228
more economical 1229
very good 1231
boiled 1232
iced 1290
rich, sweet 1230
Sauce, brown 364
for geese or pork 363
Snow 1401
Snowballs 1235
Soufflé 1402
Soup 111
Tart, creamed 1234
or pie 1233
Tourte or cake 1236
Trifle 1404
Universally popular 1236
Uses of the 1225-6
Apples, à la Portugaise 1398
And rice 1400
a pretty dish 1397
Buttered 1390
Compote of 1515
Dish of 1603
Flanc of 1391-2
Ginger 1424
Ices 1394
In red jelly 1399
Stewed, and custard 1403
To preserve in quarters (imitation of ginger) 1520
Apprentices 2724
Apricot, cream 1405
Jam or marmalade 1522
Pudding 1238
Qualities of the 1239
Tart 1239
Apricots, compote of 1521
Flanc of 1406
Arrowroot, biscuits, or drops 1738
Blancmange 1407
Arrowroot, Manufacture of 387, 1240
Pudding, baked or boiled 1240
Sauce for puddings 1356
To make 1855
What Miss Nightingale says of 1855
Arsenic 2656
Artichoke, composite or composite flowers of 1080
Constituent properties of the 1083
Jerusalem 1086
Uses of the 1084
Artichokes, a French mode of cooking 1082
A l'Italienne 1083
Fried 1081
Jerusalem, boiled 1084
mashed 1085
soup 112
with white sauce 1086
To boil 1080
Asparagus, ancient notion of 114
Boiled 1087
Island 1087
Medicinal uses of 1088
Peas 1088
Pudding 1089
Sauce 365
Soup 113-14
Aspic, or ornamental savoury jelly 366
Attestation to wills 2750
Bachelor's omelet 1462 Pudding 1241 Bacon, boiled 804 Broiled rashers of 803 Curing of 822 and keeping it free from rust 806-9 in the Devonshire way 821 in the Wiltshire way 805 Fried rashers of, and poached eggs 802 Bain-Marie 430 Bakewell pudding, very rich 1242 Plainer 1243 Ball suppers pp. 957-8 Bandoline, to make 2255 Bantam, the 939 Barbel, the 229 To dress 229 Barberries, in bunches 1523 Barberry, description of the 1245 Tart 1245 Barley, 116 Gruel 1856 Soup 116 Sugar 1524 Water, to make 1857 Baroness pudding 1244 Basil 173 Baths and fomentations, remarks on 2599 Cold 2603 Heat of 2600 Warm and hot bath 2601 Batter pudding, baked 1246 with fruits 1247 boiled 1248 orange 1249 Bay or laurel, varieties of 180 Consecrated by priests 512 Bean, haricot, the 1120 Beans, boiled, broad or Windsor 1092 French 1090 Broad, à la poulette 1093 French mode of cooking 1091 Haricots and minced onions 1121 blancs à la maitre d'hôtel 1120 blancs, or white haricots 1119 and lentils 1119 Nutritive properties of 1092 Origin and varieties of 1093 Béchamel, or French white sauce 367 Maigre, or without meat 368 Sauce 406 Beef, aitchbone of, boiled 607 to carve an p. 316 A la mode 601-2 Baked 598-9 Baron of 679 Bones, broiled 614 Brisket of, à la Flamande 649 to carve a p. 317 to stew 649 Broiled, and mushroom sauce 612 oyster sauce 613 Cake 610 Carving p. 316 Collared 617 Collops 18 minced 619 Curried 620 Different seasons for 611 Dripping, to clarify 621-2 Fillet of roast, larded 623 French 649 Frenchman's opinion of 626 Fricandeau of 624 Fried, salt 625 Fritters 627 Hashed 628-9 Hung, to prepare 630 Hunter's 631 Kidney, to dress 632-4 Marrow-bones boiled 635 Minced 636 Miriton of 637 Names of the several joints 597 Olives 650-1 Palates, to dress 653 Pickle for 654 Potted 642-3 Qualities of 599 Ragoût of 656 Rib bones of 644 Ribs of, boned and rolled, roast (joint for a small family) 658 roast 657 to carve p. 317 Rissoles 615 Roast 658 Rolled 646 Rolls 647 Round of, boiled 608 miniature 618 to carve a p. 318 Round of, to pickle part of a 655 Rump of, stewed 670 steak 666 Sausages 662 Seasons for 611 Shin of, stewed 671 Sirloin of, roast 659 to carve a p. 317 Sliced and broiled 664 Spiced (to serve cold) 665 Steak, a fried rump 626 and kidney pudding 603 oyster sauce 603 broiled 611 pie 604 pudding, baked 650 rolled, roasted, and stuffed 663 stewed, and celery sauce 667 with oysters 668 with fried potatoes 606 Tea, baked 1860 savoury 1859 to make 1858 Tongue, boiled 673 pickle for 641 to carve a p. 318 to cure a 674-5 to pickle and dress a, to eat cold 676 To salt 660 Dutch way 661 Beef-tea, Dr. Christison's 1859 Miss Nightingale's opinion of 1858 Beer, table 191 Beetroot 1094 Boiled 1094 Pickled 369 Benton sauce 370 Bequests, legacies, &c. 2744-9 Beverages, general observations on 1789, 1806 Bills of fare, for January pp. 909-13 February 914-17 March 918-21 April 922-25 May 926-29 June 930-33 July 934-36 August 937-39 September 940-42 October 943-45 November 946-48 December 949-52 ball supper for 60 persons p. 957 ball supper, cold collation, for a summer entertainment for 70 or 80 persons p. 958 breakfasts 959 game dinner for 30 persons p. 953 luncheons and suppers p. 959 menu, service à la Russe pp. 954-5 picnic for 40 persons 960 suppers p. 956 Birds, general observations on 917-25 Biscuit powder 1737 Biscuits, arrowroot 1738 Cocoa nut 1740 Crisp 1741 Dessert 1742 Lemon 1743 Macaroons 1744 Ratafias 1745 Remarks on 1712-15 Rice 1746 Rock 1747 Savoy 1748 Seed 1749 Simple, hard 1750 Soda 1751 Bites and stings, general remarks on 2609 of insects 2610-11 of snakes 2612 Of dogs 2613 Blackcock, heathcock, &c. 1019 Roast 1019 To carve a 1054 Blancmange 1408 Arrowroot. 1407 Cheap 1409 Lemon 1442 Rice 1476 Bleeding, from the nose 2607 Operation of 2605-6 Blonde, to clean 2265 Blood, spitting of 2608 Boar's head, importance of the 815 The Westphalian 787 Bones, dislocation of 2614 Fracture of 2615 Bonnets 2244 Books of account 2731 Boots, polish for 2240-1 Bottled fresh fruit 1542-3 with sugar 1544 Boudin, à la reine 961 Brain, concussion of, stunning 2623 Brandy, cherry 1526 Lemon 460 Orange 1826 Varieties of 1328 Bread, and bread-making 1668-1703 And-butter fritters 1410 pudding 1255 Crumbs, fried 424 Fried for borders 426 Indian-corn-flour 1721 Making in Spain 1776 Origin of 117 Properties of 1252 Pudding, baked 1250 boiled 1252 brown 1253 miniature 1254 very plain 1254 Rice 1720 Sauce 371-2 Sippets of, fried 425 Soda 1722 Bread, soup 117 To make a peck of good 1719 To make good home-made 1718 To make yeast for 1716 Breakfasts p. 959, par 2144-6 Breath, shortness of, or difficult breathing 2670 Bride-cake, rich 1753 Bridles 2218 Brill, the 230 To carve a pp. 175-6 Brilla soup 166 Brocoli, boiled 1095 Broth, calf's-foot 1862 Chicken 1863 Eel 1866 Mutton to make 1872 Mutton to quickly make 1873 Brown roux for thickening gravies 525 Browning, for sauces and gravies 373 For stock 108 Bruises, lacerations, and cuts 2617 Treatment of 2618 Brushes, to wash 2250 Brussels sprouts, boiled 1096 Bubble-and-squeak 616 Bullock's heart, to dress a 615 Buns, light 1731 Plain 1729 To make good plain 1730 Victoria 1732 Burns and scalds 2619 Treatment of the first class of 2620 Treatment of the second class 2621 Treatment of the third class 2622 Butler, care of plate and house 2162 Duties of the, at breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and dessert 2157-9 luncheon, in the drawing-room 2161 Lights, attention to 2160 Wine, bottling 2167-70 Wine, cellar 2163-5 Wine, fining 2166 Butter, anchovy 227,1637 Antiquity of 1205 Beurre noir, or brown butter (a French sauce) 374 Clarified 375 Colouring of 1636 Curled 1635 Easily digested 1255 Fairy 1636 General observations on 1615-19 How to keep 1635 How to keep fresh 1207 In haste 1206 Maitre d'hôtel 465 Melted 376-7 Melted (the French sauce blanche) 378 Melted made with milk 380 Moulds for moulding fresh butter 1634 Thickened 379 To keep and choose, fresh 1632 To preserve and to choose, salt 1633 What to do with rancid 1208 Cabbage, the 118 Boiled 1098 Colewort, or wild 1099 Green kale, or borecole 1097 Kohl-Rabi, or turnip 1095 Qualities of the 1169 Red, pickled 499 Red, stewed 1099 Savoy, and Brussels sprouts 1096 Savoy, description of the 140 Soup 118 Tribe and their origin 1098 Turnip tops and greens 1169 Cabinet, or chancellor's pudding 1256 Plain, or boiled bread-and-butter pudding 1257 Café au lait 1812 Noir 1813 Cake, almond 1752 Breakfast, nice 1739 Bride or Christening 1753 Christmas 1754 Cocoa-nut 1740 Economical 1756 Good holiday 1763 Honey 1758 Lemon 1764 Luncheon 1765 Nice useful 1757 Pavini 1771 Plain 1766 Plain for children 1767 Plum, common 1768 Plum, nice 1769 Pound 1770 Queen 1773 Rice 1746, 1772 Saucer, for tea 1774 Savoy 1748, 1782 Scrap 1779 Seed, common 1775 seed, very good 1776 Snow 1777-8 Soda 1781 Sponge 1783-4 Sponge Small, to make 1785 Tea 1786 Tea to toast 1787 Tipsy 1487 Tipsy an easy way of making 1488 Yeast 1788 Cakes, hints on making and baking 1704-11 Calf, the 173 Birth of the 893 Breeding of the 858 Fattening the 903 Feeding a 862 General observations on the 845-53 In America 864 Names of the 899 Symbol of Divine power 890 The golden 873 When it should be killed 860 Calf's feet, baked or stewed 1861 Calf's feet, boiled with parsley and butter 860 Calf's feet, broth 1862 Calf's feet, fricasseed 861 jelly 1416 Head, à la Maitre d'hôtel 864 boiled 876-7 collared 862 club 867 fricasseed 863 hashed 878 soup 167 to carve a 913 Liver and bacon 881 aux fines herbes 880 larded and roasted 882 Udder, for French forcemeats 421 Calomel 2658 Camp-vinegar 381 Canary-pudding 1258 Candlesticks 2311 Cannelons, or fried puffs 1417 Caper-sauce, for boiled mutton 382 For fish 383 Substitute for 384 Capercalzie, the 1026 Capers 383 Capsicums, pickled 385 Carbonate of soda 1765 Carp, the 242 Age of the 243 Baked 242 Stewed 243 Carpet sweeping 2312 Carriages 2225-9 Carrot, the 121 Constituents of the 1101 Jam, to imitate apricot preserve 1525 Nutritive properties of the 1102 Origin of the 1100 Pudding, boiled or baked 1259 Seed of the 1103 Soup 120-1 Varieties of the 1172 Carrots, boiled 1100 Sliced 1103 Stewed 1102 To dress in the German way 1101 Carving, beef p. 316 aitchbone of p. 316 brisket of p. 317 ribs of p. 317 round of p. 318 sirloin of p. 317 Blackcock 1054 Brill pp. 175-6 Calf's head 913 Codfish p. 174 Duck 999 wild 1055 Fowl 1000-1 Goose 1002 Grouse 1058 Ham 843 Hare 1056 Lamb 764-5 Landrail 1063 Mutton, haunch of 759 leg of 760 loin of 761 mutton, saddle of 762 shoulder of 763 Partridge 1057 Pheasant 1059 Pigeon 1063 Plover 1066 Pork 842 leg of 844 Ptarmigan 1064 Quail 1065 Rabbit 1004 Salmon p. 175 Snipe 1060 Soles p. 175 Sucking-pig 842 Teal 1067 Tongue p. 318 Turbot p. 175 Turkey 1005 Veal 854 breast of 912 fillet of 914 knuckle of 915 loin of 916 Venison, haunch of 1061 Widgeon 1068 Woodcock 1062 Cauliflower, description of the 1105 Properties of the 1151 Cauliflowers, à la sauce blanche 1105 Boiled 1104 With Parmesan cheese 1106 Cayenne, varieties of 362 Vinegar or essence of cayenne 386 Celery, indigenous to Britain 122 Origin of 1109 Sauce for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387 (a more simple recipe) 388 Soup 122 Stewed 1110 à la crême 1108 with white sauce 1109-10 To dress 1107 Various uses of 441, 1107 Vinegar 389 Champagne 1832 Cup 1832 Chanticleer and his companions 947 Chantilly soup 123 Char, the 243 Charlotte apple, very simple 1420 Aux pommes, an easy method of making 1418-19 Russe 1421 Cheese 1638 Cayenne 1642 Cream 1622 Damson 1536 Decomposed 1638 Fondue 1643 Brillat Savarin's 1644 General observations on 1620-2 Macaroni, as usually served with 1645-7 Mode of serving 1640 Pork 799 Paragraph Pounded 1648 Raisin 1587 Ramakins, to serve with 1649-50 Sandwiches 1641 Scotch rarebit 1651 Smoking 1640 Stilton 1639 Toasted, or Scotch rarebit 1651 Welsh 1652 Cheesecakes, almond 1219 Apple 1226 Lemon 1292 Cherokee or store sauce 528 Cherries, dried 1527 Morello, to preserve 1561 To preserve in syrup 1529 Cherry, brandy 1526 Jam 1528 Sauce for sweet puddings 1357 Tart 1261 Tree in Rome 1561 Varieties of the 1261 Chervil, peculiarities of 129 Chestnut sauce, brown 391 for fowls or turkey 390 Spanish, soup 124 Uses of the 124 Chicken, boiled 938 Broth 1863 Curried 942 Cutlets 926 French 927 Fricasseed 945 Or fowl patties 928 pie 929 Potted 930 Pox, or glass-pox 2538-42 Salad 931 Chickens, age and flavour of 931 Chili vinegar 393 China chilo 712 Chocolate, box of 1502 Cream 1430 History of 1430 Soufflé 1427 To make 1807 Cholera, and autumnal complaints 2624 Christmas, cake 1754 Plum-pudding, very good 1328 Pudding, plain, for children 1327 Christopher North's sauce for game or meat 394 Chub, the 243 Churning 2365 Churns 2362 Cleaning the 2368 Cinnamon-tree, the 524 Citron, uses of the 1329 Varieties of the 1436 Claret cup 1831 Varieties of 1831 Cleanings, periodical 2326-9 Cleanliness, advantages of 2689 Clothes, cleaning 2239 Clove, derivation of the name 436 Tree 367 Coach-house and stables 2204 Coach-house and stables, furniture of the 2209 Harness-room 2208 Heat of stables 2205 Horse, the 2203 Stalls 2207 Ventilation of stables 2206 Coachman, carriages 2225-9 Choosing horses 2231 Driving 2232 Duties of the 2210 Pace of driving 2230 Whip, the 2233 Cock-a-Leekie 134 Cocoa and chocolate, various uses of 1807 To make 1816 Cocoa-nut, the 125 Cakes or biscuits 1740 Soup 125 Cod, fecundity of the 241 Food of the 237 Habitat of the 239 Method of preserving 233 Season for fishing for the 240 Sounds 234 Tribe, the 231 Codfish, the 231 A la Béchamel 239 créme 233 A l'Italienne 241 A la maitre d'hôtel 240 Curried 237 Head and shoulders of 232 to carve p. 174 Pie 235-6 Preserving 233 Salt, (commonly called salt fish) 233 Sounds 233 en poule 234 To choose 232 Coffee, Café au lait 1812 Café noir 1813 Essence of 1808 Miss Nightingale's opinion on 1865 Nutritious 1864 Plant 1811 Simple method of making 1811 To make 1810 To roast 1809 Cold-meat cookery:— Beef, baked 598-9 bones, broiled 614 broiled, and mushroom sauce 612 oyster sauce 613 bubble-and-squeak 616 cake 610 curried 620 fried salt 625 fritters 627 hashed 628-9 minced 636 miriton of 637 olives 651 potted 613 ragoût 656 rissoles 615 rolls 647 sliced and broiled 664 stewed, and celery sauce 667 with oysters 668 Calf's head, a la maitre d'hôtel 864 fricasseed 863 hashed 878 Chicken, cutlets 927 or fowl patties 928 potted 930 salad 931 Duck, hashed 932 stewed and peas 935 turnips 937 wild, hashed 1020 ragoût of 1021 Fish, and oyster pie 257 cake 258 cod, à la Béchamel 239 à la crême 238 curried 237 pie 235-6 salmon, curried 305 scallop 350-1 turbot, à la crême 341 au gratin 342 fillets of, baked 339 à l'Italienne 340 Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962 boudin, à la Reine 961 croquettes of 953-4 fricasseed 946 fried 947-8 hashed 955 Indian fashion 957 Indian dish of 959 minced 956 à la Béchamel 950 or chicken, curried 942 ragoût 951 scollops 658 sauté, with peas 960 Game, hashed 1023 Goose, hashed 967 Hare, broiled 1029 hashed 1030 Lamb, hashed, and broiled bladebone 749 Mutton, baked minced 703 broiled and tomato sauce 710 collops 731 curried 713 cutlets 714 dormers 715 haricot 718 hashed 719 hodge-podge 720 pie 733 ragoût of neck 736 toad in hole 743 Pork, cheese 796 cutlets 796 hashed 801 Turkey, croquettes of 987 fricasseed 988 hashed 989 Veal, baked 856 cake 859 collops, Scotch 870-1 curried 865 fillet of, au Béchamel 883 loin of, au Béchamel 887 minced 889-92 olive pie 895 patties, fried 896 ragout of 900 rissoles 901 rolis 902 tête de veau en tortue 911 Venison, hashed 1050 Cold, to cure a 2625 On the chest 2626 College pudding 1263 Collops, cooking 871 Scotch 870 Scotch white 871 Combs, to clean 2251 Compote of, Apples 1515 Apricots 1521 Damsons 1537 Figs, green 1541 Gooseberries 1515 Greengages 1551 Oranges 1565 Peaches 1572 Compotes, to make syrup for 1512 Confectionary, general observations on 1508 Consommé, or white stock for many sauces 395 Constructive notices 2699 Convulsions or fits 2519-22 Cook, duties of the cook, kitchen, and scullery-maids 79 Early rising 80 First duty of the 81 General directions to the 75 duties of the 82-4 Cookery, cleanliness of utensils used in 72 Excellence in the art of 78 Explanation of French terms used in 87 Introduction to 76 Measures used in 77 Copper 2659 Coriander plant, the 174 Corks, with wooden tops 446 Corrosive sublimate 2657 Cow, cheese 1652 Heel, fried 639 stock for jellies 1412 Pox, or vaccination 2543-6 or variola 906 Cows, cost of keep for 2370 Cowslip wine 1817 Crab, hot 245 Sauce, for fish 396 To dress 244 Tribe, the 245 Crape, to make old look like new 2277 Crayfish, the 246 Crayfish, how preserved 193 Potted 247 Soup 193 Cream, à la Valois 1422 Apricot 1405 Chocolate 1430 Devonshire 1630 Ginger 1432 Italian 1437 Lemon 1443 economical 1444 or custards 1446 very good 1445 Noyeau 1452 Orange, Seville 1464 sweet 1463 Peculiarities of 1385 Raspberry 1475 Sauce for fish or white dishes 397 Stone, of tous les mois 1483 Swiss 1485 To make ice fruit 1555 Vanilla 1490 Whipped 1492 Creams, general observations on 1385 Croquettes of, fowl 953-4 Rice 1477 Croup 2568 Symptoms of 2569 Treatment of 2570-3 Crumpets 1728 Crust, butter, for boiled puddings 1213 Common, for raised pies 1217 Dripping, for kitchen puddings and pies 1214 For fruit tarts, very good 1210 Lard or flead 1218 Pâté brisée, or French, for raised pies 1216 Short, common 1212 good 1211 Suet, for pies and puddings 1215 Cucumber, antiquity of the 127, 402 Chate 1114 Geographical distribution of the 1111 Indigestible 1152 Properties and uses of the 1113 Sauce 398 white 400 Soup 127 Vinegar (a very nice addition to salads) 491 Cucumbers, à la poulette 1112 Fried 1113 For winter use 402 Pickled 399 Preserving (an excellent way) 403 Stewed 1114 with onions 1115 To dress 1111 Curds and whey 1629 Currant, dumplings 1264 Fritters 1429 Jam, black 1530 red 1532 Jelly, black 1531 red 1533 white 1534 Pudding, black or red 1266 boiled 1265 Red, and raspberry tart 1267 Currants, iced 1558 Uses of 1266 Zante, description of 1264 Curry powder 449 Custard, apple, baked 1389 Boiled 1423 Creams, or lemon 1446 Pudding, baked 1268 boiled 1269 Sauce for sweet puddings or tarts 404 Tartlets, or Fanchonnettes 1315 Cutlets, chicken 926 French 927 Invalid's 1865 Lamb 747 Mutton 732 Italian 723 of cold 714 Pheasant 1040 Pork 796-8 Salmon 306 Sauce for 513 Veal 866 à la Maintenon 868 Cygnet, the 998
Bachelor's omelet 1462 Pudding 1241 Bacon, boiled 804 Broiled strips of bacon 803 Curing and storage 822 Keeping it rust-free 806-9 The Devonshire method 821 The Wiltshire method 805 Fried bacon strips, and poached eggs 802 Bain-Marie 430 Bakewell pudding, very rich 1242 Simpler version 1243 Ball suppers pp. 957-8 How to make bandoline 2255 Bantam chicken 939 Barbel fish 229 Dressing 229 Barberries, in bunches 1523 Description of barberry 1245 Tart 1245 Barley, 116 Gruel 1856 Soup 116 Sugar 1524 Water, to prepare 1857 Baroness pudding 1244 Basil 173 Comments on baths and fomentations 2599 Cold baths 2603 Heat considerations 2600 Warm and hot baths 2601 Batter pudding, baked 1246 With fruits 1247 Boiled version 1248 Orange flavor 1249 Bay or laurel, different varieties 180 Blessed by priests 512 Haricot bean 1120 Beans, boiled, broad or Windsor 1092 French beans 1090 Broad beans prepared à la poulette 1093 French cooking method 1091 Haricots with minced onions 1121 White haricots à la maitre d'hôtel 1120 White haricots or blancs 1119 And lentils 1119 Nutritional benefits of 1092 Origin and varieties 1093 Béchamel or French white sauce 367 Vegetarian version 368 Sauce 406 Beef, aitchbone boiled 607 Carving instructions p. 316 A la mode 601-2 Baked 598-9 Baron cut 679 Broiled bones 614 Brisket, à la Flamande 649 Carving instructions p. 317 Stewing 649 Broiled with mushroom sauce 612 Oyster sauce 613 Cake 610 Carving instructions p. 316 Collared 617 Collops 18 Minced 619 Curried 620 Seasonal variations 611 Clarifying dripping 621-2 Fillet roast, larded 623 French preparation 649 French opinion on 626 Fricandeau 624 Fried, salt 625 Fritters 627 Hashed 628-9 Hung preparation 630 Hunter's style 631 Dressing the kidney 632-4 Boiled marrow bones 635 Minced meat 636 Miriton 637 Names of various cuts 597 Olives 650-1 Dressing palates 653 Pickling instructions 654 Potted meat 642-3 Quality considerations 599 Ragoût 656 Rib bones 644 Rolled and boned ribs, roast (small family portion) 658 Roast 657 Carving instructions p. 317 Rissoles 615 Roast 658 Rolled 646 Rolls 647 Round of beef, boiled 608 Miniature version 618 Carving instructions p. 318 Round, pickling part of 655 Stewed rump 670 Steak 666 Sausages 662 Seasonal cooking tips 611 Stewed shin 671 Sirloin roast 659 Carving instructions p. 317 Sliced and broiled 664 Spiced (for cold serving) 665 Rump steak 626 Kidney pudding 603 Oyster sauce 603 Broiled 611 Pie 604 Pudding, baked 650 Rolled, roasted, and stuffed 663 Stewed, with celery sauce 667 With oysters 668 With fried potatoes 606 Baked tea 1860 Savory version 1859 Preparation instructions 1858 Boiled tongue 673 Pickling instructions 641 Carving instructions p. 318 Curing method 674-5 Pickling and serving instructions for eating cold 676 Salting instructions 660 Dutch method 661 Beef tea, Dr. Christison's version 1859 Miss Nightingale's opinion 1858 Table beer 191 Beetroot 1094 Boiled 1094 Pickled 369 Benton sauce 370 Bequests, legacies, etc. 2744-9 General observations on beverages 1789, 1806 Bills of fare for January pp. 909-13 February 914-17 March 918-21 April 922-25 May 926-29 June 930-33 July 934-36 August 937-39 September 940-42 October 943-45 November 946-48 December 949-52 Ball supper for 60 persons p. 957 Summer ball supper, cold collation for 70 or 80 persons p. 958 Breakfasts 959 Game dinner for 30 persons p. 953 Luncheons and suppers p. 959 Menu, service à la Russe pp. 954-5 Picnic for 40 persons 960 Suppers p. 956 Birds, general observations on 917-25 Biscuit powder 1737 Biscuits, arrowroot 1738 Coconut 1740 Crisp 1741 Dessert 1742 Lemon 1743 Macaroons 1744 Ratafias 1745 Remarks on 1712-15 Rice 1746 Rock 1747 Savoy 1748 Seed 1749 Simple, hard 1750 Soda 1751 Bites and stings, general remarks on 2609 From insects 2610-11 From snakes 2612 From dogs 2613 Blackcock, heathcock, etc. 1019 Roast 1019 Carving instructions 1054 Blancmange 1408 Arrowroot 1407 Inexpensive version 1409 Lemon 1442 Rice 1476 Bleeding from the nose 2607 Surgical procedure 2605-6 Cleaning blonde items 2265 Blood, spitting of 2608 Significance of the boar's head 815 The Westphalian style 787 Dislocation of bones 2614 Fracture of bones 2615 Bonnets 2244 Books of account 2731 Boots, polishing technique 2240-1 Bottled fresh fruit 1542-3 With sugar 1544 Boudin, à la reine 961 Brain concussion, stunning 2623 Cherry brandy 1526 Lemon 460 Orange 1826 Varieties of 1328 Bread and bread-making 1668-1703 And-butter fritters 1410 Pudding 1255 Fried breadcrumbs 424 For decorative edges 426 Indian corn flour 1721 Spanish bread-making 1776 Bread origin 117 Properties 1252 Baked pudding 1250 Boiled pudding 1252 Brown pudding 1253 Miniature version 1254 Very plain pudding 1254 Rice use 1720 Sauce 371-2 Fried bread sippets 425 Soda bread 1722 Bread soup 117 Recipe for a good peck of 1719 Good homemade 1718 Yeast preparation 1716 Breakfasts p. 959, par 2144-6 Shortness of breath or difficulty breathing 2670 Rich bride cake 1753 Bridles 2218 Brill fish 230 Carving instructions pp. 175-6 Brilla soup 166 Boiled broccoli 1095 Calf's-foot broth 1862 Chicken broth 1863 Eel broth 1866 Quick mutton broth 1872 Instant mutton broth 1873 Brown roux for thickening sauces 525 Browning for sauces and gravies 373 For stock preparation 108 Bruises, lacerations, and cuts 2617 Treatment 2618 Washing brushes 2250 Boiled Brussels sprouts 1096 Bubble-and-squeak 616 Dressing a bullock's heart 615 Light buns 1731 Plain buns 1729 Recipe for good plain buns 1730 Victoria buns 1732 Burns and scalds 2619 Treatment for first degree 2620 Treatment for second degree 2621 Treatment for third degree 2622 Butler's care of plate and household 2162 Butler's duties at meals 2157-9 Luncheon in the drawing room 2161 Attention to lighting 2160 Bottling wine 2167-70 Wine cellar management 2163-5 Wine fining 2166 Anchovy butter 227,1637 Ancient history 1205 Beurre noir or brown butter (French sauce) 374 Clarified version 375 Coloring butter 1636 Curled butter 1635 Easily digestible 1255 Fairy butter 1636 General observations on butter 1615-19 How to store butter 1635 Keeping butter fresh 1207 Quick storage 1206 Maitre d'hôtel butter 465 Melted butter 376-7 Melted butter (French sauce blanche) 378 Melted butter with milk 380 Molds for fresh butter 1634 Thickened butter 379 How to keep and select fresh butter 1632 How to preserve and choose salted butter 1633 Rancid butter solutions 1208 Cabbage, general info 118 Boiled cabbage 1098 Wild cabbage, colewort 1099 Green kale 1097 Kohl-Rabi or turnip 1095 Cabbage qualities 1169 Pickled red cabbage 499 Stewed red cabbage 1099 Savoy and Brussels sprouts 1096 Description of Savoy 140 Cabbage soup 118 Variety and origin information 1098 Turnip tops and greens 1169 Cabinet or chancellor's pudding 1256 Plain or boiled bread-and-butter pudding 1257 Café au lait 1812 Noir coffee 1813 Almond cake 1752 Nice breakfast cake 1739 Bride or Christening cake 1753 Christmas cake 1754 Coconut cake 1740 Economical cake recipe 1756 Great holiday cake 1763 Honey cake 1758 Lemon cake 1764 Luncheon cake 1765 Useful cake recipe 1757 Pavini cake 1771 Plain cake 1766 Child-friendly plain cake 1767 Common plum cake 1768 Nice plum cake 1769 Pound cake 1770 Queen cake 1773 Rice cake 1746, 1772 Saucer cake for tea 1774 Savoy cake 1748, 1782 Scrap cake 1779 Common seed cake 1775 Very good seed cake 1776 Snow cake 1777-8 Soda cake 1781 Sponge cake 1783-4 Small sponge cake, recipe 1785 Tea cake 1786 Toasted tea cake 1787 Tipsy cake 1487 Easy tipsy cake recipe 1488 Yeast cake 1788 Hints on making and baking cakes 1704-11 Calf, general information 173 Birth details 893 Breeding practices 858 Fattening tips 903 Feeding guidelines 862 General observations 845-53 Information specific to America 864 Naming conventions 899 Symbolism of divine power 890 The golden calf 873 Ideal slaughter timing 860 Baked or stewed calf's feet 1861 Boiled calf's feet with parsley and butter 860 Calf's feet broth 1862 Fricassee of calf's feet 861 Jelly from calf's feet 1416 Calf's head, à la Maitre d'hôtel 864 Boiled head 876-7 Collared head 862 Club cut 867 Fricassee of head 863 Hashed head 878 Head soup 167 Carving instructions 913 Liver with bacon 881 Herbs in preparation 880 Larded and roasted head 882 Udder used in French forcemeats 421 Calomel 2658 Camp vinegar 381 Canary pudding 1258 Candlesticks 2311 Cannelons or fried puffs 1417 Caper sauce for boiled mutton 382 For fish 383 Substitute options 384 Capercaillie, the 1026 Capers 383 Pickled capsicums 385 Sodium carbonate 1765 Carp fish 242 Age details 243 Baked carp 242 Stewed carp 243 Carpet cleaning 2312 Carriages 2225-9 Carrot, general info 121 Constituents 1101 Jam that mimics apricot preserve 1525 Nutritional benefits 1102 Origin 1100 Carrot pudding, boiled or baked 1259 Seed information 1103 Carrot soup 120-1 Varieties 1172 Boiled carrots 1100 Sliced carrots 1103 Stewed carrots 1102 Dressing method (German style) 1101 Beef carving p. 316 Aitchbone carving p. 316 Brisket carving p. 317 Rib carving p. 317 Round carving p. 318 Sirloin carving p. 317 Blackcock carving 1054 Brill carving pp. 175-6 Calf's head carving 913 Codfish carving p. 174 Duck carving 999 Wild duck carving 1055 Chicken carving 1000-1 Goose carving 1002 Grouse carving 1058 Ham carving 843 Hare carving 1056 Lamb carving 764-5 Landrail carving 1063 Mutton haunch carving 759 Leg of mutton carving 760 Loin of mutton carving 761 Saddle of mutton carving 762 Shoulder of mutton carving 763 Partridge carving 1057 Pheasant carving 1059 Pigeon carving 1063 Plover carving 1066 Pork carving 842 Leg of pork carving 844 Ptarmigan carving 1064 Quail carving 1065 Rabbit carving 1004 Salmon carving p. 175 Snipe carving 1060 Soles carving p. 175 Sucking pig carving 842 Teal carving 1067 Tongue carving p. 318 Turbot carving p. 175 Turkey carving 1005 Veal carving 854 Breast of veal carving 912 Fillet of veal carving 914 Knuckle of veal carving 915 Loin of veal carving 916 Venison haunch carving 1061 Widgeon carving 1068 Woodcock carving 1062 Description of cauliflower 1105 Properties 1151 Cauliflowers with white sauce 1105 Boiled cauliflowers 1104 With Parmesan cheese 1106 Cayenne varieties 362 Cayenne vinegar or essence 386 Celery, native to Britain 122 Origin 1109 Sauce for boiled turkey, poultry, etc. 387 (simpler recipe) 388 Soup 122 Stewed celery 1110 With cream sauce 1108 With white sauce 1109-10 Dressing method 1107 Various uses 441, 1107 Vinegar 389 Champagne 1832 Cup of Champagne 1832 Chanticleer and companions 947 Chantilly soup 123 Char fish 243 Very simple charlotte apple 1420 Easy aux pommes recipe 1418-19 Russe style 1421 Cheese 1638 Cayenne cheese 1642 Cream cheese 1622 Damson cheese 1536 Decomposed cheese 1638 Fondue 1643 Brillat Savarin's recipe 1644 General cheese observations 1620-2 Macaroni with cheese 1645-7 Serving methods 1640 Pork cheese 799 Paragraph Pounded cheese 1648 Raisin cheese 1587 Ramakins with cheese 1649-50 Cheese sandwiches 1641 Scotch rarebit 1651 Smoking cheese 1640 Stilton cheese 1639 Toasted Scotch rarebit 1651 Welsh rarebit 1652 Almond cheesecakes 1219 Apple cheesecakes 1226 Lemon cheesecakes 1292 Cherokee or store sauce 528 Dried cherries 1527 Preserving Morello cherries 1561 In syrup preserving method 1529 Cherry brandy 1526 Cherry jam 1528 Sauce for sweet puddings 1357 Cherry tart 1261 Cherry tree information in Rome 1561 Cherry varieties 1261 Chervil peculiarities 129 Brown chestnut sauce 391 For fowls or turkey 390 Spanish chestnut soup 124 Chestnut uses 124 Chicken, boiled chicken 938 Chicken broth 1863 Curried chicken 942 Chicken cutlets 926 French chicken preparation 927 Fricassee of chicken 945 Chicken or fowl patties 928 Chicken pie 929 Potted chicken 930 Chicken salad 931 Age and flavor of chickens 931 Chili vinegar 393 China chilo 712 Chocolate box 1502 Chocolate cream 1430 Chocolate history 1430 Chocolate soufflé 1427 Chocolate making instructions 1807 Cholera and autumn complaints 2624 Christmas cake 1754 Very good plum pudding 1328 Plain pudding for children 1327 Christopher North's sauce for game or meat 394 Chub fish 243 Churning butter 2365 Butter churns 2362 Cleaning butter churns 2368 Cinnamon tree 524 Citron uses 1329 Citron varieties 1436 Claret cup 1831 Claret cup varieties 1831 Periodic cleanings 2326-9 Advantages of cleanliness 2689 Clothes cleaning techniques 2239 Clove name origins 436 Clove tree 367 Coach house and stables setup 2204 Coach house and stables furniture 2209 Harness room 2208 Stable heat management 2205 Horse management 2203 Stalls 2207 Stable ventilation 2206 Coachman, carriage management 2225-9 Choosing horses effectively 2231 Driving tips 2232 Coachman's duties 2210 Driving pace management 2230 Whip handling 2233 Cock-a-leekie soup 134 Cocoa and chocolate uses 1807 Cocoa making instructions 1816 Cocoa-nut, general information 125 Cocoa-nut cakes or biscuits 1740 Cocoa-nut soup 125 Cod fish fecundity 241 Cod food sources 237 Cod habitat details 239 Cod preservation method 233 Fishing season for cod 240 Cod sounds 234 Cod tribe information 231 Codfish, general information 231 Béchamel cod preparation 239 Cream preparation 233 Italian cod 241 Cod à la maitred'hôtel 240 Curried cod 237 Cod head and shoulders 232 Carving instructions p. 174 Cod pie 235-6 Cod preservation methods 233 Salted cod (commonly known as salt fish) 233 Cod sounds 233 En poule cod preparation 234 Cod choosing tips 232 Coffee, Café au lait 1812 Black coffee 1813 Coffee essence 1808 Miss Nightingale's coffee opinion 1865 Nutritious coffee 1864 Coffee plant information 1811 Simple coffee making tips 1811 Coffee roasting instructions 1809 Cold meat preparations:— Baked beef 598-9 Broiled beef bones 614 Beef with mushroom sauce 612 And oyster sauce 613 Bubble-and-squeak recipe 616 Beef cake 610 Curried beef 620 Fried salted beef 625 Beef fritters 627 Beef hashed dish 628-9 Minced beef 636 Beef miriton 637 Beef olives 651 Potted beef 613 Beef ragoût recipe 656 Beef rissoles 615 Sliced and broiled beef 664 Stewed beef with celery sauce 667 Including oysters 668 Calf's head, à la maitre d'hôtel 864 Calf's head fricassee 863 Calf's head hashed dish 878 Chicken cutlets 927 Or fowl patties 928 Potted chicken 930 Chicken salad 931 Duck hashed dish 932 Duck stewed with peas 935 And turnips 937 Wild duck hashed dish 1020 Wild duck ragoût 1021 Fish, and oyster pie 257 Fish cake 258 Cod Béchamel preparation 239 Cod cream preparation 238 Cod curry preparation 237 Cod pie 235-6 Salmon curry 305 Scallop preparation 350-1 Turbot in cream 341 Turbot au gratin 342 Baked turbot fillets 339 In Italian style 340 Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962 Fowl boudin, à la Reine 961 Fowl croquettes recipe 953-4 Fowl fricassee 946 Fowl fried dishes 947-8 Fowl hashed recipes 955 Indian style 957 Indian fowl dish 959 Minced fowl, Béchamel style 950 Curried chicken 942 Fowl ragoût 951 Fowl scallops 658 Sautéed fowl with peas 960 Game meat hashed dish 1023 Goose hashed preparation 967 Hare, broiled hare 1029 Hash of hare 1030 Lamb, hashed lamb dish, and broiled bladebone 749 Mutton, baked minced dish 703 Broiled mutton with tomato sauce 710 Mutton collops 731 Curried mutton 713 Mutton cutlets 714 Mutton dormers 715 Mutton haricot 718 Mutton hashed dish 719 Mutton hodge-podge 720 Mutton pie 733 Mutton ragoût from neck 736 Toad-in-the-hole 743 Pork cheese dish 796 Pork cutlets 796 Pork hashed dish 801 Croquettes of turkey 987 Turkey fricassee 988 Turkey hashed dish 989 Veal, baked veal 856 Veal cake 859 Scotch veal collops 870-1 Curried veal 865 Béchamel veal fillet 883 Béchamel veal loin 887 Minced veal 889-92 Olive pie with veal 895 Fried veal patties 896 Ragout of veal 900 Veal rissoles 901 Veal rolls 902 Tête de veau en tortue 911 Venison hashed dish 1050 Cold curing instructions 2625 On the chest 2626 College pudding 1263 Collops cooking techniques 871 Scotch collops 870 Scotch white collops 871 Cleaning combs 2251 Apple compote 1515 Apricot compote 1521 Damson compote 1537 Green fig compote 1541 Gooseberry compote 1515 Greengage compote 1551 Orange compote 1565 Peach compote 1572 Syrup making for compotes 1512 General observations on confectionary 1508 Consommé or white stock for sauces 395 Constructive notices 2699 Convulsions or fits 2519-22 Cook's duties in kitchen and scullery 79 Early rising 80 First duty listed 81 General directions to the cook 75 Cook's duties listed 82-4 Cookery cleanliness 72 Excellence in culinary art 78 French terms explanations 87 Cooking introduction 76 Measuring used 77 Copper utensils 2659 Coriander plant 174 Corks with wooden tops 446 Corrosive sublimate 2657 Cow's cheese 1652 Fried cow heel 639 Stock for jellies 1412 Vaccination for pox 2543-6 Variola pox 906 Cows, cost of upkeep 2370 Cowslip wine 1817 Hot crab dish 245 Sauce for fish 396 Preparing crab 244 Crab tribe information 245 Crape repair recipe 2277 Crayfish information 246 Preserving crayfish 193 Potted crayfish 247 Crayfish soup 193 Cream, à la Valois 1422 Apricot cream 1405 Chocolate cream 1430 Devonshire cream 1630 Ginger cream 1432 Italian cream 1437 Lemon cream 1443 Economical lemon cream 1444 Lemon cream custards 1446 Very good lemon cream 1445 Noyeau cream 1452 Orange cream, Seville 1464 Sweet orange cream 1463 Peculiarities in cream 1385 Raspberry cream 1475 Sauce for fish or white dishes 397 Monthly fruit stone, a dessert 1483 Swiss cream 1485 Ice fruit instructions 1555 Vanilla cream 1490 Whipped cream 1492 General observations on creams 1385 Fowl croquettes 953-4 Rice croquettes 1477 Croup symptoms 2568 Treatment steps 2570-3 Crumpets 1728 Butter crust for boiled puddings 1213 Common crust for raised pies 1217 Dripping crust for kitchen pies 1214 Excellent fruit tart crust 1210 Lard or flead crust 1218 Pâté brisée crust for raised pies 1216 Common short crust 1212 Good quality short crust 1211 Suet crust for pies and puddings 1215 Cucumber history 127, 402 Cucumber chate 1114 Cucumber geographical spread 1111 Indigestible nature of cucumbers 1152 Cucumber properties and uses 1113 Cucumber sauce 398 White cucumber sauce 400 Cucumber soup 127 Vinegar 491, a great addition for salads Cucumbers, à la poulette preparation 1112 Fried cucumbers 1113 Winter preparation 402 Pickling cucumbers 399 Excellent preserving methods 403 Stewed cucumbers 1114 Cucumbers with onions 1115 Dressing cucumbers 1111 Curds and whey 1629 Currant dumplings 1264 Currant fritters 1429 Black currant jam 1530 Red currant jam 1532 Black currant jelly 1531 Red currant jelly 1533 White currant jelly 1534 Black or red currant pudding 1266 Boiled currant pudding 1265 Red currants and raspberry tart 1267 Iced currants 1558 Currants uses 1266 Zante currants description 1264 Curry powder 449 Baked apple custard 1389 Boiled custard 1423 Creams or lemon custards 1446 Baked pudding 1268 Boiled pudding 1269 Sauce for sweet tarts and puddings 404 Tartlets or Fanchonnettes 1315 Cutlets from chicken 926 French chicken cutlets 927 Invalid's chicken cutlets 1865 Lamb cutlets 747 Mutton cutlets 732 Italian mutton cutlets 723 Cold or leftover mutton cutlets 714 Pheasant cutlet 1040 Pork cutlet 796-8 Salmon cutlet 306 Sauce for cutlets 513 Veal cutlets 866 À la Maintenon style veal cutlet 868 Cygnet, the 998
Dace, the 243
Dairy, the 2358
Butter, colouring of 2366
milk 2368
washing 2367
Churning 2365
Churns 2362
Cleaning the churn, &c. 2368
Cows, cost of keep for 2370
Devonshire system 2369
Hair sieve 2360
Maid, charge of dairy produce 2371
duties of the 2357
Milk, dishes 2361
general management of 2364
pails 2359
Situation of the 2363
Dampfnudeln, or German puddings 1280
Damson, the 1270
A very nice preserve 1539
Cheese 1536
Jam 1538
Pudding 1271
Tart 1270
Damsons, baked for winter use 1535
Compote of 1537
To preserve, or any other kind of plums 1540
Darioles, à la vanille 1428
Date, the 1605
Debts 2755
Estate chargeable with 2748
Decanters, to clean 2198, 2336
Deer, the 1049
Fallow 1050
Roebuck 1051
Deer, stag 1051
Delhi pudding 1272
Dentition 2509
Dessert, biscuits 1742
Dishes 1598
general remarks on 1509
Devonshire, cream 1630
Junket 1631
Diarrhoea 2574-7
Dilapidations 2718
Dinners, and dining 1879-86
A la Russe 2137-8
menu p. 955
Bills of fare for, from 6 to 18 persons, from January to December
pp. 909-52
Bills of fare for game, for 30 persons p. 953
Bills of fare for plain family pp. 913, 917, 921, 925, 929, 933,
936, 939, 942, 945, 948, 952
Diseases of infancy and childhood 2509-77
Dishes, a hundred different 434
Domestics, general remarks on 2153-6
Dormers 715
Downs, the 725
Draught, for summer 1837
Dress and dressing of infants 2491-6
Drink for warm weather, pleasant 1836
Dripping, to clarify 621-2
Driving 2232-3
Drowning, treatment after 2676
Duck, the 932
American mode of capturing the 936
Aylesbury 935
Bow-bill 936
Buenos Ayres 933
Eggs of the 934, 1658
Fattening 936
Hashed 932
Hatching 935
Man and dog, decoy 937
Roast 934
to carve a 999
Rouen 934
Snares in Lincolnshire 937
Stewed, and peas 935-6
and turnips 937
To ragoût a whole 933
Varieties of the 933
Wild, the 934, 937, 1022
hashed 1020
ragoût of 1021
roast 1022
to carve a 1055
Ducklings, cooping and feeding 935
Dumplings, baked apple 1225
Boiled apple 1227
Currant 1264
Lemon 1294
Marrow 1306
Sussex, or hard 1376
Yeast 1383
Dusting 2313
Dutch flummery 1426
Sauce, for fish 405
Green, or Hollandaise verte 406
Dace, the 243
Dairy, the 2358
Butter, coloring of 2366
milk 2368
washing 2367
Churning 2365
Churns 2362
Cleaning the churn, etc. 2368
Cows, cost of keeping 2370
Devonshire system 2369
Hair sieve 2360
Maid, charge of dairy products 2371
duties of the 2357
Milk, dishes 2361
general management of 2364
pails 2359
Situation of the 2363
Dampfnudeln, or German puddings 1280
Damson, the 1270
A very nice preserve 1539
Cheese 1536
Jam 1538
Pudding 1271
Tart 1270
Damsons, baked for winter use 1535
Compote of 1537
To preserve, or any other kind of plums 1540
Darioles, à la vanille 1428
Date, the 1605
Debts 2755
Estate chargeable with 2748
Decanters, to clean 2198, 2336
Deer, the 1049
Fallow 1050
Roebuck 1051
Deer, stag 1051
Delhi pudding 1272
Dentition 2509
Dessert, biscuits 1742
Dishes 1598
general remarks on 1509
Devonshire, cream 1630
Junket 1631
Diarrhoea 2574-7
Dilapidations 2718
Dinners, and dining 1879-86
A la Russe 2137-8
menu p. 955
Bills of fare for, from 6 to 18 persons, from January to December
pp. 909-52
Bills of fare for game, for 30 persons p. 953
Bills of fare for plain family pp. 913, 917, 921, 925, 929, 933,
936, 939, 942, 945, 948, 952
Diseases of infancy and childhood 2509-77
Dishes, a hundred different 434
Domestics, general remarks on 2153-6
Dormers 715
Downs, the 725
Draught, for summer 1837
Dress and dressing of infants 2491-6
Drink for warm weather, pleasant 1836
Dripping, to clarify 621-2
Driving 2232-3
Drowning, treatment after 2676
Duck, the 932
American method of capturing the 936
Aylesbury 935
Bow-bill 936
Buenos Ayres 933
Eggs of the 934, 1658
Fattening 936
Hashed 932
Hatching 935
Man and dog, decoy 937
Roast 934
to carve a 999
Rouen 934
Snares in Lincolnshire 937
Stewed, and peas 935-6
and turnips 937
To ragoût a whole 933
Varieties of the 933
Wild, the 934, 937, 1022
hashed 1020
ragoût of 1021
roast 1022
to carve a 1055
Ducklings, cooping and feeding 935
Dumplings, baked apple 1225
Boiled apple 1227
Currant 1264
Lemon 1294
Marrow 1306
Sussex, or hard 1376
Yeast 1383
Dusting 2313
Dutch flummery 1426
Sauce, for fish 405
Green, or Hollandaise verte 406
Eel, broth 1866
Haunts of the 254
Pie 253
Productiveness of the 252
Soup 194
Tenacity of life of the 256
The common 250
Tribe, the 249
Voracity of the 253
Eels, à la Tartare 255
Boiled 249
Collared 254
En matelote 256
Fried 252
Stewed 250-1
Egg, balls for soups and made dishes 408
Sauce for salt fish 409
Soup 128
Wine 1867
Eggs, à la maitre d'hôtel 1660
A la tripe 1667
Boiled for breakfast, salads, &c. 1656
Buttered 1657
Ducks' 1658
For hatching 927-28
Fried 1659
General remarks on 1623-6
Liaison of, for thickening sauces 461
Oeufs au plat, or au miroir 1661
Plovers' 1662
Poached 1663
with cream 1664
Primitive method of cooking 1658
Quality of 1654-5
Scotch 1666
Snow, or oeufs à la neige 1482
To choose 1654
keep fresh for several weeks 1655
pickle 407
Veneration for 1659
White of 1387
Will crack if dropped in boiling water 1656
Elderberry wine 1818
Emetic, tartar 2660
Empress pudding 1273
Endive, à la Française 1118
Genus of 1116
Plant 169
Stewed 1117
To dress 1116
Entrée, beef or rump steak, stewed 666
Beef, minced collops 619
Boudin à la reine 961
Calf's head, fricasseed 863
liver, larded and roasted 882
Chicken and rice croquettes 953-4
cutlets 926
or fowl, fricasseed 945
Fowl, hashed 955
sauté with peas 960
Lamb, cutlets 747
sweetbreads and asparagus 757
another way
to dress 758
Lark pie 971
Lobster-curry 274
Entrée, lobster cutlets 275
patties 277
Oyster patties 289
Sweetbreads, baked 906
fried 907
stewed 908
Veal cutlets 866
à la Maintenon 868
broiled 867
collops 879
fricandeau of 874-5
tendons de veau 909-10
tête de veau 911
Vol au vent 1379
Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287
Epicurean sauce 410
Espagnole, or brown Spanish sauce 411
Everton toffee 1597
Exeter pudding 1274
Eye, lime in the 2629
Sore 2628
Stye in the 2630
Substances in the 2627
Eyelids, inflammation of the 2631
Eel, broth 1866
Haunts of the 254
Pie 253
Productiveness of the 252
Soup 194
Tenacity of life of the 256
The common 250
Tribe, the 249
Voracity of the 253
Eels, à la Tartare 255
Boiled 249
Collared 254
En matelote 256
Fried 252
Stewed 250-1
Egg, balls for soups and made dishes 408
Sauce for salt fish 409
Soup 128
Wine 1867
Eggs, à la maitre d'hôtel 1660
A la tripe 1667
Boiled for breakfast, salads, etc. 1656
Buttered 1657
Ducks' 1658
For hatching 927-28
Fried 1659
General remarks on 1623-6
Liaison of, for thickening sauces 461
Oeufs au plat, or au miroir 1661
Plovers' 1662
Poached 1663
with cream 1664
Primitive method of cooking 1658
Quality of 1654-5
Scotch 1666
Snow, or oeufs à la neige 1482
To choose 1654
keep fresh for several weeks 1655
pickle 407
Veneration for 1659
White of 1387
Will crack if dropped in boiling water 1656
Elderberry wine 1818
Emetic, tartar 2660
Empress pudding 1273
Endive, à la Française 1118
Genus of 1116
Plant 169
Stewed 1117
To dress 1116
Entrée, beef or rump steak, stewed 666
Beef, minced collops 619
Boudin à la reine 961
Calf's head, fricasseed 863
liver, larded and roasted 882
Chicken and rice croquettes 953-4
cutlets 926
or fowl, fricasseed 945
Fowl, hashed 955
sauté with peas 960
Lamb, cutlets 747
sweetbreads and asparagus 757
another way
to dress 758
Lark pie 971
Lobster-curry 274
Entrée, lobster cutlets 275
patties 277
Oyster patties 289
Sweetbreads, baked 906
fried 907
stewed 908
Veal cutlets 866
à la Maintenon 868
broiled 867
collops 879
fricandeau of 874-5
tendons de veau 909-10
tête de veau 911
Vol au vent 1379
Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287
Epicurean sauce 410
Espagnole, or brown Spanish sauce 411
Everton toffee 1597
Exeter pudding 1274
Eye, lime in the 2629
Sore 2628
Stye in the 2630
Substances in the 2627
Eyelids, inflammation of the 2631
Fairy butter 1636
Fanchonnettes, or custard tartlets 1315
Fasting 2632
Feathers 2284
Fennel 412
Sauce for mackerel 412
Fig pudding 1275
Figs, green, compote of 1541
Fish, addendum and anecdote of p. 173
And oyster pie 257
As an article of human food 211-18
Average prices 226
Cake 258
General directions for carving p..174-6
dressing 219-25
rule in choosing 226
In season January to December pp. 33-7
Kettle 338
Pie with tench and eels 349
Sauce 413, 512
Scallop 350-1
Soup 192
Stock 192
Supply of, for the London market 353
To smoke at home 820
Fishes, natural history of 199-210
Fits 2633
Apoplexy 2634-6
and drunkenness, distinctions between 2638
epilepsy, distinctions between 2637
hysterics distinctions between 2639
poisoning by opium, distinctions between 2640
Epilepsy 2641
Fainting 2642
Hysterics 2643
The consequence of dentition 2519-22
Fixtures 2713
Fleece, the golden 715
Floorcloth, to clean 2335
Flounder, the 259
Flounders, boiled 259
Fried 260
Flour, nutritious qualities of 1218
Flowers, to preserve cut 2289
after packing 2290
Flummery, Dutch 1426
Fomentations 2602-3
Fondue, Brillat Savarin's 1644
To make 1643
Food for infants, and its preparation 2499, 2508
Footgear 2245
Footman, boot-cleaning 2174
Boot tops 2176
Breakfast, laying cloth, &c. 2181-3
Brushing clothes 2180
Decanters 2198
Dinner 2185-6
Dinners à la Russe 2188
Dress and livery 2172
During dinner 2191
Early rising 2173
Furniture-rubbing 2179
General duties 2171
Glass-washing 2197-8
Going out with the carriage 2190
Knives 2177
Lamp-trimming 2178
Letters and messages 2200
Luncheon, duties at 2184
Management of work 2196
Manners, modesty, &c. 2190
Opening wine 2192
Pantry 2195
Patent leather boots 2175
Politeness 2201
Receptions and evening parties 2202
Removal of dishes 2193
Salt-cellars 2187
Tea 2194
Waiting at table 2189
Where a valet is not kept 2182
Forcemeat, balls for fish soups 414
Boiled calf's udder for French 421
For baked pike 413
cold savoury pies 415
various kinds of fish 416
veal, turkeys, fowls, hare, &c. 417
French 419-20
Or quenelles, for turtle soup, Soyer's receipt for 423
Oyster 489
Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962
And rice croquettes 953
Boiled 938
à la Béchamel 943
to carve 1000
with oysters 944
rice 940
Boudin à la reine 961
Broiled and mushroom sauce 939
Croquettes 954
Curried 941-2
Fricasseed 945-6
Fried 947-8
Hashed 955
an Indian dish 957
House, the 944
stocking the 945
Indian dish of 950
Minced 956
à la Béchamel 950
Pillau 963
Poulet aux cressons 964
à la Marengo 949
Ragoût of 951
Roast 952
stuffed 965
to carve a 1001
Sauté, with peas 960
Scallops 958
To bone for fricassees 995
Fowls, à la Marengo 949
As food 926
Bantam 939
feather-legged 958
Best to fatten 951
way to fatten 948
Black Spanish 962
Characteristics of health and power 946
Chip in 953
Cochin China 942
Common, or domestic 926
Diseases of, and how to cure 952
Dorking 940
Eggs for hatching 927
Feeding and cooping 930
Game 938
Guinea 970
Hatching 928
Moulting season, the 956
Obstruction of the crop 955
Pencilled Hamburg 965
Poland 941
Scour, or Dysentery in 957
Serai Ta-ook, or fowls of the Sultan 963
Sir John Sebright's bantams 961
Sitting 927
Skin disease in 955
Space for 943
Speckled Hamburg 959
"Turn" in 954
Various modes of fattening 948
Young 929
Freezing apparatus, method of working the 1290
French terms used in cookery 87
Fritters, apple 1393
Beef 627
Bread-and-butter 1410
Currant 1429
Indian 1435
Orange 1465
Peach 1469
Pineapple 1472
Plain 1473
Potato 1474
Rice 1478
Fruit, dish of mixed 1601
summer 1604
Fresh to bottle 1542-3
Ice creams, to make 1555
In season, January to December pp. 33-7
Spots, to remove 2270
To bottle with sugar 1544
Turnovers 1278
Water ices, to make 1556
Fuel 73
Fungi, analysis of 1128
Varieties of 1124
Furniture cleaning 2307, 2313
Gloss, German 2339
Polish 2308-9
Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284
Fairy butter 1636
Fanchonnettes, or custard tartlets 1315
Fasting 2632
Feathers 2284
Fennel 412
Sauce for mackerel 412
Fig pudding 1275
Figs, green, compote of 1541
Fish, addendum and anecdote of p. 173
And oyster pie 257
As an article of human food 211-18
Average prices 226
Cake 258
General directions for carving p..174-6
dressing 219-25
rule in choosing 226
In season January to December pp. 33-7
Kettle 338
Pie with tench and eels 349
Sauce 413, 512
Scallop 350-1
Soup 192
Stock 192
Supply of, for the London market 353
To smoke at home 820
Fishes, natural history of 199-210
Fits 2633
Apoplexy 2634-6
and drunkenness, distinctions between 2638
epilepsy, distinctions between 2637
hysterics distinctions between 2639
poisoning by opium, distinctions between 2640
Epilepsy 2641
Fainting 2642
Hysterics 2643
The consequence of dentition 2519-22
Fixtures 2713
Fleece, the golden 715
Floorcloth, to clean 2335
Flounder, the 259
Flounders, boiled 259
Fried 260
Flour, nutritious qualities of 1218
Flowers, to preserve cut 2289
after packing 2290
Flummery, Dutch 1426
Fomentations 2602-3
Fondue, Brillat Savarin's 1644
To make 1643
Food for infants, and its preparation 2499, 2508
Footgear 2245
Footman, boot-cleaning 2174
Boot tops 2176
Breakfast, laying cloth, &c. 2181-3
Brushing clothes 2180
Decanters 2198
Dinner 2185-6
Dinners à la Russe 2188
Dress and livery 2172
During dinner 2191
Early rising 2173
Furniture-rubbing 2179
General duties 2171
Glass-washing 2197-8
Going out with the carriage 2190
Knives 2177
Lamp-trimming 2178
Letters and messages 2200
Luncheon, duties at 2184
Management of work 2196
Manners, modesty, &c. 2190
Opening wine 2192
Pantry 2195
Patent leather boots 2175
Politeness 2201
Receptions and evening parties 2202
Removal of dishes 2193
Salt-cellars 2187
Tea 2194
Waiting at table 2189
Where a valet is not kept 2182
Forcemeat, balls for fish soups 414
Boiled calf's udder for French 421
For baked pike 413
cold savoury pies 415
various kinds of fish 416
veal, turkeys, fowls, hare, &c. 417
French 419-20
Or quenelles, for turtle soup, Soyer's receipt for 423
Oyster 489
Fowl, à la Mayonnaise 962
And rice croquettes 953
Boiled 938
à la Béchamel 943
to carve 1000
with oysters 944
rice 940
Boudin à la reine 961
Broiled and mushroom sauce 939
Croquettes 954
Curried 941-2
Fricasseed 945-6
Fried 947-8
Hashed 955
an Indian dish 957
House, the 944
stocking the 945
Indian dish of 950
Minced 956
à la Béchamel 950
Pillau 963
Poulet aux cressons 964
à la Marengo 949
Ragoût of 951
Roast 952
stuffed 965
to carve a 1001
Sauté, with peas 960
Scallops 958
To bone for fricassees 995
Fowls, à la Marengo 949
As food 926
Bantam 939
feather-legged 958
Best to fatten 951
way to fatten 948
Black Spanish 962
Characteristics of health and power 946
Chip in 953
Cochin China 942
Common, or domestic 926
Diseases of, and how to cure 952
Dorking 940
Eggs for hatching 927
Feeding and cooping 930
Game 938
Guinea 970
Hatching 928
Moulting season, the 956
Obstruction of the crop 955
Pencilled Hamburg 965
Poland 941
Scour, or Dysentery in 957
Serai Ta-ook, or fowls of the Sultan 963
Sir John Sebright's bantams 961
Sitting 927
Skin disease in 955
Space for 943
Speckled Hamburg 959
"Turn" in 954
Various modes of fattening 948
Young 929
Freezing apparatus, method of working the 1290
French terms used in cookery 87
Fritters, apple 1393
Beef 627
Bread-and-butter 1410
Currant 1429
Indian 1435
Orange 1465
Peach 1469
Pineapple 1472
Plain 1473
Potato 1474
Rice 1478
Fruit, dish of mixed 1601
summer 1604
Fresh to bottle 1542-3
Ice creams, to make 1555
In season, January to December pp. 33-7
Spots, to remove 2270
To bottle with sugar 1544
Turnovers 1278
Water ices, to make 1556
Fuel 73
Fungi, analysis of 1128
Varieties of 1124
Furniture cleaning 2307, 2313
Gloss, German 2339
Polish 2308-9
Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284
Game, general observations on 1006-18
Hashed 1023
In season, January to December pp. 33-7
Garlic 392
Geneva wafers 1431
Genevese sauce 427
German pudding 1279
or Dampfnudeln 1280
Gherkins, or young cucumbers 428
Pickled 428
Giblet pie 965
Soup 168
Gilt frames, to brighten 2337
Ginger, apples 1424
Beer 1833
Cream 1432
Preserved 1432
Pudding 1281
Qualities of 407
Wine 1819
Gingerbread, nuts, rich sweetmeat 1759
Sunderland 1761
Thick 1769
White 1762
Glaize, cold joints to 430
For covering cold hams, tongues, &c 430
Kettle 430
Godfrey's cordial 2663
Game, general observations on 1006-18
Hashed 1023
In season, January to December pp. 33-7
Garlic 392
Geneva wafers 1431
Genevese sauce 427
German pudding 1279
or Dampfnudeln 1280
Gherkins, or young cucumbers 428
Pickled 428
Giblet pie 965
Soup 168
Gilt frames, to brighten 2337
Ginger, apples 1424
Beer 1833
Cream 1432
Preserved 1432
Pudding 1281
Qualities of 407
Wine 1819
Gingerbread, nuts, rich sweetmeat 1759
Sunderland 1761
Thick 1769
White 1762
Glaize, cold joints to 430
For covering cold hams, tongues, &c 430
Kettle 430
Godfrey's cordial 2663
Golden fleece, order of the 708, 715
Pudding 1282
Goose, Brent 966
Description of the 968
Egyptian 969
Hashed 967
Roast 968
to carve a 1002
Stuffing for (Soyer's) 505
To dress a green 969
Wild 967
Gooseberries, compote of 1546
Gooseberry, the 1285
Fool 1433
Indigenous to British isles 429
Jam 1547-8
white or green 1549
Jelly 1550
Pudding, baked 1283
Gooseberry pudding, boiled 1284
Sauce for boiled mackerel 429
Tart 1285
Trifle 1434
Vinegar 1820
Wine, effervescing 1821
Grapes, qualities of 1601
Grates 2298, 2299, 2338
Gravy, a quickly-made 434
Beef, for poultry or game (good) 435
Brown 436
without meat 437
Cheap, for minced veal 443
hashes 440
For roast meat 433
venison 444
General stock for 432
Jugged, excellent 441
Kettle 432
Made without meat, for fowls 439
Orange 488
Rich, for hashes and ragouts 438
Roux, for thickening brown 525
white 526
Soup 169
Veal, for white sauces, fricassees 442
Greengage jam 1552
Greengages, compote of 1551
To preserve dry 1553
in syrup 1554
Green sauce 431
Greens, boiled, turnip 1169
Turnip-tops, and cabbage 1169
Groom, bridles 2218
Cleaning fawn or yellow leather 2223
Duties of the 2211
Exercising the horses 2213
Feeding the horses 2214-15
Harness 2219
cleaning old 2221-2
paste 2220
Shoeing 2217
Watering horses 2212, 2216
Wheel-grease 2224
Grouse, description of the 1625-26
Pie 1024
Roast 1025
Salad 1026
To carve a 1058
Gruel, barley 1836
To make 1868
Gudgeon, the 261
Habitat of the 261
Guinea-fowl, description of the 970
Roast 970
Guinea-pig, the 997
Gurnet, the 262
To dress 262
Golden fleece, order of the 708, 715
Pudding 1282
Goose, Brent 966
Description of the 968
Egyptian 969
Hashed 967
Roast 968
to carve a 1002
Stuffing for (Soyer's) 505
To dress a green 969
Wild 967
Gooseberries, compote of 1546
Gooseberry, the 1285
Fool 1433
Indigenous to British Isles 429
Jam 1547-8
white or green 1549
Jelly 1550
Pudding, baked 1283
Gooseberry pudding, boiled 1284
Sauce for boiled mackerel 429
Tart 1285
Trifle 1434
Vinegar 1820
Wine, effervescing 1821
Grapes, qualities of 1601
Grates 2298, 2299, 2338
Gravy, a quickly-made 434
Beef, for poultry or game (good) 435
Brown 436
without meat 437
Cheap, for minced veal 443
hashes 440
For roast meat 433
venison 444
General stock for 432
Jugged, excellent 441
Kettle 432
Made without meat, for fowls 439
Orange 488
Rich, for hashes and ragouts 438
Roux, for thickening brown 525
white 526
Soup 169
Veal, for white sauces, fricassees 442
Greengage jam 1552
Greengages, compote of 1551
To preserve dry 1553
in syrup 1554
Green sauce 431
Greens, boiled, turnip 1169
Turnip-tops, and cabbage 1169
Groom, bridles 2218
Cleaning fawn or yellow leather 2223
Duties of the 2211
Exercising the horses 2213
Feeding the horses 2214-15
Harness 2219
cleaning old 2221-2
paste 2220
Shoeing 2217
Watering horses 2212, 2216
Wheel-grease 2224
Grouse, description of the 1625-26
Pie 1024
Roast 1025
Salad 1026
To carve a 1058
Gruel, barley 1836
To make 1868
Gudgeon, the 261
Habitat of the 261
Guinea-fowl, description of the 970
Roast 970
Guinea-pig, the 997
Gurnet, the 262
To dress 262
Haddock, habitat of the 263
Finnan 266
Weight of the 264
Haddocks, baked 263
Boiled 264
Dried 265-6
Hair-dressing 2248-9
Hair, pomade for 2253-4
To promote growth of 2257
Wash for 2252
Ham, fried and eggs 843
Omelet 1457
Potted 814-5
To bake a 810
boil a 811
carve a 843
give it an excellent flavour 812
glaize 430
Hams, curing of 822
For curing 816
To cure in the Devonshire way 821
sweet, in the Westmoreland way 818
pickle 819
salt two 817
smoke at home 820
Hare, broiled 1029
Extreme timidity of the 1027
Hashed 1030
Jugged 1031-2
Potted 1028
Roast 1027
Soup 170
To carve a 1056
The common 170
Haricot, beans, and minced onions 1121
Blancs à la maître d'hôtel 1120
Mutton 716-17-18
To boil blancs, or white haricot beans 1119
Harness, cleaning old 2221-2
Paste 2220
Room, the 2208
Heart, palpitation of the 2646
Henbane, hemlock, nightshade, and foxglove 2664
Herbs, to dry for winter use 445
Powder of, for flavouring 446
Sweet 417
Heradotus pudding 1287
Herring, the 268
Red 267
Herrings, baked, white 268
Red, or Yarmouth bleaters 267
To choose 268
Hessian soup 171
Hidden mountain, the 1438
Hodge-podge 191, 720
Hog, antiquity of the 826, 834
Fossil remains of the 829
General observations on the common 765-95
In England 837
Not bacon 807
Universality of the 833
Wild and domestic 823
Holly leaves, to frost 1545
Honey cake 1758
Hooping cough 2468, 2564
Symptoms of 2565
Treatment of 2566-7
Horse, the 2203
Horses, choosing 2231
Exercising 2213
Horses feeding 2224-15
Watering 2212, 2216
Horseradish, the 447
Medical properties of the 1122
Sauce 447
Vinegar 448
Hot spice 524
Housekeeper, daily duties of the 58-61
General duties of the 55
Knowledge of cookery 57
Necessary qualifications for a 56
Housemaid, bedroom, attention to 2306, 2323-4
Bright grates 2298
Candlestick and lamp-cleaning 2330
Carpet-sweeping 2312
Chips broken off furniture 2330
Cleanings, periodical 2326-9
Dress of the 2319
Dusting 2313
Duties after dinner 2321
evening 2322
general 2292-4
Fire-lighting 2296-7
Furniture-cleaning 2307, 2313
General directions to the 2300-5
Hartshorn, for plate-cleaning 2316
Laying dinner-table 2314-5
Marble, to clean 2333-4
Needlework 2325
Plate, to clean 2317
rags for daily use 2318
Upper and under 2291
Waiting at table 2320
Recipe, Brunswick black, to make 2295
cement for joining broken glass or china 2331-2
decanters, to clean 2336
floorcloth, to clean 2335
furniture gloss, German 2339
paste 2310
polish 2308-9
gilt frames, to brighten 2337
grates and fire irons, to preserve from rust 2338
polish for bright grates 2299
Hunter's pudding 1288
Husband and wife 2725-9
Hysterics 2643
Haddock, habitat of the 263
Finnan 266
Weight of the 264
Haddocks, baked 263
Boiled 264
Dried 265-6
Hair-dressing 2248-9
Hair, pomade for 2253-4
To promote growth of 2257
Wash for 2252
Ham, fried and eggs 843
Omelet 1457
Potted 814-5
To bake a 810
boil a 811
carve a 843
give it an excellent flavor 812
glaze 430
Hams, curing of 822
For curing 816
To cure in the Devonshire way 821
sweet, in the Westmoreland way 818
pickle 819
salt two 817
smoke at home 820
Hare, broiled 1029
Extreme timidity of the 1027
Hashed 1030
Jugged 1031-2
Potted 1028
Roast 1027
Soup 170
To carve a 1056
The common 170
Haricot, beans, and minced onions 1121
Blancs à la maître d'hôtel 1120
Mutton 716-17-18
To boil blancs, or white haricot beans 1119
Harness, cleaning old 2221-2
Paste 2220
Room, the 2208
Heart, palpitation of the 2646
Henbane, hemlock, nightshade, and foxglove 2664
Herbs, to dry for winter use 445
Powder of, for flavoring 446
Sweet 417
Heradotus pudding 1287
Herring, the 268
Red 267
Herrings, baked, white 268
Red, or Yarmouth bleaters 267
To choose 268
Hessian soup 171
Hidden mountain, the 1438
Hodge-podge 191, 720
Hog, antiquity of the 826, 834
Fossil remains of the 829
General observations on the common 765-95
In England 837
Not bacon 807
Universality of the 833
Wild and domestic 823
Holly leaves, to frost 1545
Honey cake 1758
Hooping cough 2468, 2564
Symptoms of 2565
Treatment of 2566-7
Horse, the 2203
Horses, choosing 2231
Exercising 2213
Horses feeding 2224-15
Watering 2212, 2216
Horseradish, the 447
Medical properties of the 1122
Sauce 447
Vinegar 448
Hot spice 524
Housekeeper, daily duties of the 58-61
General duties of the 55
Knowledge of cookery 57
Necessary qualifications for a 56
Housemaid, bedroom, attention to 2306, 2323-4
Bright grates 2298
Candlestick and lamp-cleaning 2330
Carpet-sweeping 2312
Chips broken off furniture 2330
Cleanings, periodical 2326-9
Dress of the 2319
Dusting 2313
Duties after dinner 2321
evening 2322
general 2292-4
Fire-lighting 2296-7
Furniture-cleaning 2307, 2313
General directions to the 2300-5
Hartshorn, for plate-cleaning 2316
Laying dinner-table 2314-5
Marble, to clean 2333-4
Needlework 2325
Plate, to clean 2317
rags for daily use 2318
Upper and under 2291
Waiting at table 2320
Recipe, Brunswick black, to make 2295
cement for joining broken glass or china 2331-2
decanters, to clean 2336
floorcloth, to clean 2335
furniture gloss, German 2339
paste 2310
polish 2308-9
gilt frames, to brighten 2337
grates and fire irons, to preserve from rust 2338
polish for bright grates 2299
Hunter's pudding 1288
Husband and wife 2725-9
Hysterics 2643
Ice, fruit creams, to make 1555
Lemon-water 1557
To ice, or glaze pastry 1334
Iced, apple pudding 1290
Apples, or apple hedgehog 1394
Currants 1558
Oranges 1564
Pudding 1289
Ices, fruit-water, to make 1556
General observations on 1510-11
Icing, for cakes, almond 1735
sugar 1736
Indian, Chetney sauce 452
Corn-flour bread 1721
Curry powder 449
Fritters 1435
Mustard 450
Pickle 451
Trifle 1436
Infant, the 2460-2577
Ink-spots, to remove 2271
Invalid cookery, rules to be observed in 1841-54
Invalid's cutlet, the 1865
Jelly 1869
Lemonade 1870
Insurance 2708-10
I. O. U., the 2723
Irish stew 721-2
Ironing 2282, 2393-6
Isinglass 1413
Italian, cream 1437
Mutton cutlets 723
Rusks 1733
Sauce, brown 453
white 451
Ice, fruit creams, to make 1555
Lemonade 1557
To freeze or glaze pastry 1334
Iced apple pudding 1290
Apples, or apple hedgehog 1394
Currants 1558
Oranges 1564
Pudding 1289
Fruit ice, to make 1556
General notes on 1510-11
Icing for cakes, almond 1735
sugar 1736
Indian, chutney sauce 452
Cornflour bread 1721
Curry powder 449
Fritters 1435
Mustard 450
Pickle 451
Trifle 1436
Infant, the 2460-2577
Ink stains, to remove 2271
Invalid cookery, rules to observe in 1841-54
Invalid's cutlet, the 1865
Gelatin 1869
Lemonade 1870
Insurance 2708-10
I. O. U., the 2723
Irish stew 721-2
Ironing 2282, 2393-6
Isinglass 1413
Italian, cream 1437
Mutton cutlets 723
Rusks 1733
Sauce, brown 453
white 451
Jam, apple 1517
Apricot, or marmalade 1522
Carrot 1525
Cherry 1528
Currant, black 1530
red 1538
Damson 1538
Gooseberry 1547-8
white or green 1549
Greengage 1552
Omelet 1460
Plum 1580
Raspberry 1588
Rhubarb 1590
and orange 1591
Roly pudding 1291
Strawberry 1594
Jaunemange 1439
Jelly, apple 1518-19
clear 1396
thick, or marmalade 1395
Bag, how to make 1411
Bottled, how to mould 1414
Calf's foot 1416
Cow-heel, stock for 1412
Currant, black 1531
red 1533
white 1534
General observations on 1386
Gooseberry 1550
Invalid's 1869
Isinglass or gelatine 1413
Lemon 1447
Liqueur 1449
Moulded with fresh fruit 1440
with slices of orange 1455
Of two colours 1441
Open with whipped cream 1453
Orange 1454
Quince 1585
Raspberry 1589
Savoury, for meat pies 521
Stock for, and to clarify it 1411
Strawberry 1484
To clarify syrup for 1415
Jewels 2286
John dory, the 248
To dress the 248
Joints, injuries to 2616
Julienne, soup á la 191
Junket, Devonshire 1631
Jam, apple 1517
Apricot, or marmalade 1522
Carrot 1525
Cherry 1528
Currant, black 1530
red 1538
Damson 1538
Gooseberry 1547-8
white or green 1549
Greengage 1552
Omelet 1460
Plum 1580
Raspberry 1588
Rhubarb 1590
and orange 1591
Roly pudding 1291
Strawberry 1594
Jaunemange 1439
Jelly, apple 1518-19
clear 1396
thick, or marmalade 1395
Bag, how to make 1411
Bottled, how to mold 1414
Calf's foot 1416
Cow-heel, stock for 1412
Currant, black 1531
red 1533
white 1534
General observations on 1386
Gooseberry 1550
Invalid's 1869
Isinglass or gelatin 1413
Lemon 1447
Liqueur 1449
Molded with fresh fruit 1440
with slices of orange 1455
Of two colors 1441
Open with whipped cream 1453
Orange 1454
Quince 1585
Raspberry 1589
Savory, for meat pies 521
Stock for, and to clarify it 1411
Strawberry 1484
To clarify syrup for 1415
Jewels 2286
John dory, the 248
To dress the 248
Joints, injuries to 2616
Julienne, soup à la 191
Junket, Devonshire 1631
Kale brose 132
Kegeree 269
Ketchup, mushroom 472
Oyster 490
Walnut 535-6
Kettles for fish 338
Kidney and beefsteak pudding 605
Omelet 1458
Kidneys, broiled 724
Fried 725
Kitchen, distribution of a 62
Essential requirements of the 70
Fuel for the 73
Ranges 65-6
Maid, duties of the 85
Necessity for cleanliness 72
Scullery maid, duties of the 86
Utensils, ancient and modern 69
list of for the 71
Kitchens of the Middle Ages 62
Knives 2177
Kohl Rabi, or turnip-cabbage 1095
Kale brose 132
Kedgeree 269
Ketchup, mushroom 472
Oyster 490
Walnut 535-6
Kettles for fish 338
Kidney and beefsteak pudding 605
Omelet 1458
Kidneys, broiled 724
Fried 725
Kitchen, distribution of a 62
Essential requirements of the 70
Fuel for the 73
Ranges 65-6
Maid, duties of the 85
Necessity for cleanliness 72
Scullery maid, duties of the 86
Utensils, ancient and modern 69
list of for the 71
Kitchens of the Middle Ages 62
Knives 2177
Kohl Rabi, or turnip-cabbage 1095
Lace collars, to clean 2266
Lady's maid, arranging the dressing room 2246-7
Attention to bonnets 2244
Chausserie, or foot-gear 2245
Dressing, remarks on 2258-9
Duties of the 2213, 2260-2
when from home 2280
evening 2281
Epaulettes of gold or silver 2287
Fashions, repairs, &c 2263
Hairdressing 2248
lessons in 2249
Ironing 2282
Jewels 2286
Linen, attention to 2278
Packing 2279
Rules of conduct 2288
Recipe, bandoline, to make 2255
Blonde, to clean 2265
Brushes, to wash 2250
Combs, to clean 2251
Crape, to make old look like new 2277
Essence of lemon, use of 2274
Flowers, to preserve cut 2289
to revive after packing 2290
Fruit-spots, to remove 2270
Furs, feathers, and woollens 2284
Grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials, to remove 2268
from silks or moires, to remove 2269
Hair, a good pomade for the 2253-4
Hair, a good wash for the 2253
to promote the growth of 2257
Lace collars, to clean 2266
Moths, preservatives against the ravages of 2285
Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276
Pomatum, an excellent 2256
Ribbons or silk, to clean 2275
Scorched linen to restore 2283
Stains of syrup or preserved fruit, to remove 2273
To remove ink-spots 2271
Wax, to remove 2272
Lamb, as a sacrifice 744
Breast of, and green peas 744
stewed 745
Carving 761
Chops 746
Cutlets and spinach 747
Fore quarter, to carve a 764
to roast a 750
Fry 748
General observations on the 698-702
Hashed and broiled blade-bone of 749
Leg of, boiled 751
roast 752
Loin of, braised 753
Saddle of 754
Shoulder of 755
stuffed 756
Lamb's sweetbreads, larded 757
another way to dress 758
Lambswool, or lamasool 1227
Lamp-cleaning 2178,2311
Lamprey, the 256
Landlord and tenant, relations of 2700
Landrail or corn-crake 1033
Roast 1033
To carve 1063
Lard, to melt 625
Larding 828
Lark-pie 971
Larks, roast 972
Laundry, situation of, and necessary apparatus 2373-4
Maid, cleaning and washing utensils 2386
General duties of the 2372
Ironing 2393-6
Mangling and ironing 2387-9
Rinsing 2379
Soaking linen 2376
Sorting linen 2375
Starch, to make 2391-2
Starching 2390
Washing 2377-8
coloured muslins, &c 2380
flannels 2381
greasy cloths 2382
satin and silk ribbons 2384
silk handkerchiefs 2383
silks 2385
Laurel, or bay 180
Law, general remarks on 2694
Lead, and its preparations 2661
Leamington sauce 459
Lease, breaks in the 2711
Leases, general remarks on 2702-4
Leek, badge of the Welsh 134
Soup 133
Legacies 2751-4
Bequests, &c 2744-9
Legal memoranda 2694-2751
Lemon, anti venomous 455
Biscuits 1743
Blancmange 1442
Brandy 460
Cake 1764
Cheesecakes 1292
Cream 1443
(economical) 1444
Creams 1445
or custards 1446
Dumplings 1294
Essence of 2274
Fruit of the 405
Jelly 1447
Juice of the 456
Mincemeat 1293
Pudding, baked 1295-7
boiled 1298
plain 1299
Rind or peel 460
Sauce for boiled fowls 457
for sweet puddings 1358
Sponge 1448
Syrup 1822
Thyme 458
To pickle with the peel on 455
without the peel 456
Water ice 1557
White sauce for fowls or fricassees 458
Uses of the 1296
Wine 1823
Lemonade 1834
For invalids 1870
Most harmless of acids 1834
Nourishing 1871
Lentil, the 126
Lettuce, corrective properties of the 136
Varieties of the 1123
Lettuces, to dress 1123
Leveret, to dress a 1034
Liaison 461
Lightning, treatment after a person has been struck by 2677
Linen, attention to 2278
Scorched, to restore 2283
Soaking 2376
Sorting 2375
Liqueur Jelly 1449
Liver, and lemon sauce for poultry 462
And parsley sauce for poultry 463
Complaints and spasms 2644
Lobster, the 270
A la mode Française 273
Ancient mode of cooking the 275
Celerity of the 273
Curry (an entrée) 274
Cutlets (an entrée) 275
Hot 271
How it feeds 278
Local attachment of the 277
Patties (an entrée) 277
Potted 278
Salad 272
Sauce 464
Shell of the 272
Soup 195
To boil 270
To dress 276
Lumbago 2645
Luncheon cake 1765
Luncheons and suppers 2147-48
Lungs, respiration of 2453-6
Lace collars, for cleaning 2266
Lady's maid, setting up the dressing room 2246-7
Focus on bonnets 2244
Footwear 2245
Dressing, comments on 2258-9
Responsibilities of the 2213, 2260-2
when away from home 2280
evening 2281
Gold or silver epaulettes 2287
Fashions, repairs, etc. 2263
Hair styling 2248
lessons in 2249
Ironing 2282
Jewelry 2286
Linen, care for 2278
Packing 2279
Code of conduct 2288
Recipe, how to make bandoline 2255
Blonde, how to clean 2265
Washing brushes 2250
Cleaning combs 2251
Crape, how to make old look new 2277
Lemon essence, uses of 2274
Cut flowers, how to preserve 2289
reviving after packing 2290
Removing fruit stains 2270
Furs, feathers, and woolens 2284
Grease stains from cotton or wool fabrics, how to remove 2268
from silks or moires, how to remove 2269
Hair, a good pomade for 2253-4
Hair, a good wash for 2253
to encourage growth of 2257
Lace collars, for cleaning 2266
Moth repellents 2285
Removing paint from silk fabric 2276
Excellent pomatum 2256
Cleaning ribbons or silk 2275
Restoring scorched linen 2283
Removing syrup or preserved fruit stains 2273
Removing ink stains 2271
Removing wax 2272
Lamb, as a sacrifice 744
Breast of lamb, with green peas 744
stewed 745
Carving 761
Chops 746
Cutlets and spinach 747
Forequarter, how to carve a 764
to roast a 750
Frying 748
General observations on the 698-702
Hashed and broiled blade-bone of 749
Leg of lamb, boiled 751
roasted 752
Loin of lamb, braised 753
Saddle of lamb 754
Shoulder of lamb 755
stuffed 756
Lamb's sweetbreads, larded 757
another way to prepare 758
Lambswool, or lamasool 1227
Lamp cleaning 2178,2311
Lamprey, the 256
Landlord and tenant, relationship 2700
Landrail or corn-crake 1033
Roasted 1033
To carve 1063
Lard, to melt 625
Larding 828
Lark pie 971
Larks, roasted 972
Laundry, location and essential equipment 2373-4
Maid, cleaning and washing tools 2386
General responsibilities of the 2372
Ironing 2393-6
Mangling and ironing 2387-9
Rinsing 2379
Soaking linen 2376
Sorting linen 2375
Making starch 2391-2
Starching 2390
Washing 2377-8
colored muslins, etc. 2380
flannels 2381
greasy materials 2382
satin and silk ribbons 2384
silk handkerchiefs 2383
silks 2385
Laurel, or bay 180
Law, general observations on 2694
Lead, and its compounds 2661
Leamington sauce 459
Lease, breaks in the 2711
Leases, general observations on 2702-4
Leek, symbol of the Welsh 134
Soup 133
Legacies 2751-4
Bequests, etc. 2744-9
Legal notes 2694-2751
Lemon, anti-venomous 455
Biscuits 1743
Blancmange 1442
Brandy 460
Cake 1764
Cheesecakes 1292
Cream 1443
(economical) 1444
Creams 1445
or custards 1446
Dumplings 1294
Essence of 2274
Fruit of the 405
Jelly 1447
Juice of 456
Mincemeat 1293
Pudding, baked 1295-7
boiled 1298
plain 1299
Peel 460
Sauce for boiled poultry 457
for sweet puddings 1358
Sponge 1448
Syrup 1822
Thyme 458
Pickling with peel on 455
without peel 456
Water ice 1557
White sauce for poultry or fricassees 458
Uses of the 1296
Wine 1823
Lemonade 1834
For patients 1870
Harmless acid 1834
Nourishing 1871
Lentil, the 126
Lettuce, health benefits of 136
Varieties of the 1123
Lettuces, how to dress 1123
Leveret, how to dress a 1034
Liaison 461
Lightning, treatment for someone struck by it 2677
Linen, care for 2278
Restoring scorched linen 2283
Soaking 2376
Sorting 2375
Liqueur Jelly 1449
Liver, and lemon sauce for poultry 462
And parsley sauce for poultry 463
Complaints and spasms 2644
Lobster, the 270
In the French style 273
Ancient cooking methods for the 275
Speed of preparation 273
Curry (an entrée) 274
Cutlets (an entrée) 275
Hot 271
How it feeds 278
Local attachment in 277
Patties (an entrée) 277
Potted 278
Salad 272
Sauce 464
Shell of the 272
Soup 195
How to boil 270
How to prepare 276
Lumbago 2645
Luncheon cake 1765
Luncheons and dinners 2147-48
Lungs, respiration 2453-6
Macaroni, as usually served with cheese course 1645-7
Manufacture of 135, 1301
Pudding, sweet 1301
Soup 135
Sweet dish of 1450
Macaroons 1744
Mace 371
Macedoine de fruits 1440
Mackerel, the 281
Baked 279
Boiled 280
Broiled 281
Fillets of 282
Garum 283
Pickled 283
To choose 281
Weight of the 279
Voracity of the 282
Maid-of-all-work, after breakfast 2344
dinner 2350-1
Bedrooms, attention to 2352
daily work in 2345
Before retiring to bed 2354
Breakfast, preparation for 2343
Cleaning hall 2342
Cooking dinner 2346
Early morning duties 2341
General duties 2340
routine 2353
Knife-cleaning 2351
Laying dinner-cloth 2347
Needlework, time for 2356
Waiting at table 2348-9
Washing 2355
Maigre, soup 136
Maître d'hôtel 465
butter 465
sauce (hot) 466
Macaroni, typically served with cheese course 1645-7
Manufacture of 135, 1301
Sweet pudding 1301
Soup 135
Sweet dish of 1450
Macaroons 1744
Mace 371
Fruit salad 1440
Mackerel, the 281
Baked 279
Boiled 280
Broiled 281
Fillets of 282
Garum 283
Pickled 283
To choose 281
Weight of the 279
Greediness of the 282
Maid-of-all-work, after breakfast 2344
dinner 2350-1
Bedrooms, attention to 2352
daily work in 2345
Before going to bed 2354
Breakfast, preparation for 2343
Cleaning the hall 2342
Cooking dinner 2346
Early morning duties 2341
General duties 2340
routine 2353
Knife-cleaning 2351
Setting the dinner table 2347
Needlework, time for 2356
Waiting at the table 2348-9
Washing 2355
Maigre, soup 136
Maître d'hôtel 465
butter 465
sauce (hot) 466
Maize 1721
Cobbett a cultivator of 1174
Or Indian wheat, boiled 1174
Malt wine 1824
Manchester pudding 1300
Mangling and ironing 2387-9
Mango chetney, Bengal recipe for making 392
Manna kroup pudding 1302
Qualities of 1302
Mansfield pudding 1303
Marble, to clean 2333-4
Marjoram, species of 173, 415
Marlborough pudding 1304
Marmalade, and vermicelli pudding 1305
Of Apricots 1522
Orange 1566-7
an easy way of making 1568
made with honey 1569
Quince 1586
Marrow, bones 635
Boiled 635
Dumplings 1306
Pudding, boiled or baked 1307
Mayonnaise 468
Measles 2547-59
Meat, action of salt on 607
Bad 605
Baking 665
Good 602
In season, January to December pp 33-7
Modes of cooking 540-84
Pies, savoury jelly for 521
To buy economically 726
Meats, preserved 643
Medical memoranda 2689-93
Melon, description of the 1559
Introduced into England 1115
Uses of the 1559
Melons 1569
Meringues 1451
Military puddings 1308
Milk, and cream, separation of 1627
to keep in hot weather 1628
And suckling 2472-90
Excellence of 1627
General observations on 1608-14
Or cream, substitute for 1815
Qualities of 1628
Soup 137
Millet, Italian 1718
Pannicled 1733
Mince pies 1311
Minced collops 619
Mincemeat, to make 1309
Excellent 1310
Lemon 1293
Mint 469
Sauce 469
Vinegar 470
Mistress, after-dinner invitations 39
Charity and benevolence, duties of 14
Choice of acquaintances 6
Cleanliness indispensable to health 4
Conversation, trifling occurrences 9
Daily duties 22-6
Departure of guests 45-6
Dessert 37-8
Dinner announced 35
Domestics, engaging 17
giving characters to 20
obtaining 18
treatment of 19
yearly wages, table of 21
Mistress, dress and fashion 11
of the 13
Early rising 3
Etiquette of evening parties 40-3
the ball room 44
Evenings at home 48
Family dinner at home 47
Friendships should not be hastily formed 7
Good temper, cultivation of 10
Guests at dinner-table 36
Half-hour before dinner 34
Home virtues 5
Hospitality, excellence of 8
Household duties 1-2
House-hunting, locality, aspect, ventilation, rent 54
Housekeeping account-book 16
Introductions 51
Invitations for dinner 33
Letters of introduction 52-3
Marketing 15
Morning calls and visits 27-32
Purchasing of wearing apparel 12
Retiring for the night 49
Mock-turtle soup 172-3
Morello cherries, to preserve 1561
Moths, preservatives against 2285
Muffins 1727
Mulberries, preserved 1360
Mulberry, description of the 1360
Mullagatawny soup 174
Mullet, grey 284
Red 285
Muriatic acid 2651
Mushroom, the cultivated 473
Growth of the 476
How to distinguish the 472
Ketchup 472
Localities of the 1126
Nature of the 478
Powder 477
Sauce, brown 474
very rich and good 479
white 475-6
Varieties of the 1125
Mushrooms, baked 1124
Broiled 1125
Pickled 478
Stewed 1127
in gravy 1128
To dry 473
preserve 1126
procure 1127
Mustard 480
How to mix 480
Indian 480
Tartar 481
Mutton, baked minced 703
Breast of, boiled 704
(excellent way to cook a) 709
Broiled, and tomato sauce 710
Broth, quickly made 1873
to make 1872
Carving 759-63
China chilo 712
Mutton, chops, broiled 711
Collops 731
Curried 713
Cutlets, of cold 714
Italian 723
with mashed potatoes 732
Dormers 715
Fillet of, braised 707
Haricot 716-18
Hashed 719
Haunch of, roast 726
to carve a 759
Hodge-podge 720
Irish stew 721-2
Kidney, broiled 724
fried 725
Leg of, boiled 705
boned and stuffed 706
braised 708
roast 727
to carve a 760
Loin of, to carve a 761
roast 728
rolled 729
Neck of, boiled 730
ragoût of 736
roast 737
Pie 733-4
Pudding 735
Qualities of various 707
Saddle of, roast 738
to carve a 762
Shoulder of, roast 739
to carve a 763
Soup, good 175
Maize 1721
Cobbett a cultivator of 1174
Or Indian wheat, boiled 1174
Malt wine 1824
Manchester pudding 1300
Mangling and ironing 2387-9
Mango chutney, Bengal recipe for making 392
Manna kroup pudding 1302
Qualities of 1302
Mansfield pudding 1303
Marble, to clean 2333-4
Marjoram, species of 173, 415
Marlborough pudding 1304
Marmalade, and vermicelli pudding 1305
Of Apricots 1522
Orange 1566-7
an easy way to make 1568
made with honey 1569
Quince 1586
Marrow, bones 635
Boiled 635
Dumplings 1306
Pudding, boiled or baked 1307
Mayonnaise 468
Measles 2547-59
Meat, action of salt on 607
Bad 605
Baking 665
Good 602
In season, January to December pp 33-7
Modes of cooking 540-84
Pies, savory jelly for 521
To buy economically 726
Meats, preserved 643
Medical notes 2689-93
Melon, description of the 1559
Introduced into England 1115
Uses of the 1559
Melons 1569
Meringues 1451
Military puddings 1308
Milk, and cream, separation of 1627
to keep in hot weather 1628
And suckling 2472-90
Excellence of 1627
General observations on 1608-14
Or cream, substitute for 1815
Qualities of 1628
Soup 137
Millet, Italian 1718
Pannicled 1733
Mince pies 1311
Minced collops 619
Mincemeat, to make 1309
Excellent 1310
Lemon 1293
Mint 469
Sauce 469
Vinegar 470
Mistress, after-dinner invitations 39
Charity and kindness, duties of 14
Choice of friends 6
Cleanliness is vital to health 4
Conversation, trivial occurrences 9
Daily duties 22-6
Departure of guests 45-6
Dessert 37-8
Dinner announced 35
Domestic staff, engaging 17
giving references to 20
obtaining 18
treatment of 19
yearly wages, table of 21
Mistress, dress and style 11
of the 13
Early rising 3
Etiquette of evening parties 40-3
the ballroom 44
Evenings at home 48
Family dinner at home 47
Friendships should not be formed too quickly 7
Good temper, cultivation of 10
Guests at the dinner table 36
Half-hour before dinner 34
Home virtues 5
Hospitality, excellence of 8
Household duties 1-2
House-hunting, locality, view, ventilation, rent 54
Housekeeping account-book 16
Introductions 51
Invitations for dinner 33
Letters of introduction 52-3
Marketing 15
Morning calls and visits 27-32
Purchasing clothing 12
Retiring for the night 49
Mock-turtle soup 172-3
Morello cherries, to preserve 1561
Moths, preservatives against 2285
Muffins 1727
Mulberries, preserved 1360
Mulberry, description of the 1360
Mulligatawny soup 174
Mullet, grey 284
Red 285
Muriatic acid 2651
Mushroom, the cultivated 473
Growth of the 476
How to distinguish the 472
Ketchup 472
Localities of the 1126
Nature of the 478
Powder 477
Sauce, brown 474
very rich and good 479
white 475-6
Varieties of the 1125
Mushrooms, baked 1124
Broiled 1125
Pickled 478
Stewed 1127
in gravy 1128
To dry 473
preserve 1126
procure 1127
Mustard 480
How to mix 480
Indian 480
Tartar 481
Mutton, baked minced 703
Breast of, boiled 704
(excellent way to cook a) 709
Broiled, and tomato sauce 710
Broth, quickly made 1873
to make 1872
Carving 759-63
China chilo 712
Mutton, chops, broiled 711
Collops 731
Curried 713
Cutlets, of cold 714
Italian 723
with mashed potatoes 732
Dormers 715
Fillet of, braised 707
Haricot 716-18
Hashed 719
Haunch of, roast 726
to carve a 759
Hodge-podge 720
Irish stew 721-2
Kidney, broiled 724
fried 725
Leg of, boiled 705
boned and stuffed 706
braised 708
roast 727
to carve a 760
Loin of, to carve a 761
roast 728
rolled 729
Neck of, boiled 730
ragoût of 736
roast 737
Pie 733-4
Pudding 735
Qualities of various 707
Saddle of, roast 738
to carve a 762
Shoulder of, roast 739
to carve a 763
Soup, good 175
Nasturtium, uses of the 482
Nasturtiums, pickled 482
Nature and art in nursing 2445-2452
Navet, description of the 1168
Nectar, Welsh 1830
Nectarines, preserved 1562
Needlework 2325
Negus, to make 1835
Nesselrode pudding 1313
Nitric acid 2650
Normandy pippins, stewed 1563
Notice to quit 2716
Noxious trades 2712
Noyeau cream 1452
Homemade 1825
Nurse, attention to children's dispositions 2401
Carrying an infant 2398
Convulsion fits 2406
Croup 2407
Dentition 2405
General duties of the 2402-4
Habits of cleanliness in children 2400
Hooping-cough 2408
Measles and scarlatina 2410-12
Miss Nightingale's remarks on children 2414-5
Worms 2409
Nursemaids, upper and under 2397
Nurse, Monthly, age of 2431
Nurse, Monthly, attention to cleanliness
in the patient's room 2433
Choice of a 2429
Doctor's instructions must be observed 2430
General duties of the 2432
Infant must not be exposed to light or cold too early 2434
Nurse, Sick, airing the bed 2425
Attention to food 2427
Bad smells must be removed 2422
Cleanliness, necessity of 2421
Diet suitable to the patient's taste 2428
Duties of the 2416
Necessity for pure air in the sick-room 2417
Night air injurious, a fallacy 2426
Opening of windows and doors 2418-9
Patient must not be waked 2424
Quiet in the patient's room 2423
Ventilation necessary in febrile cases 2402
Nurse, Wet, abstinence from improper food 2411
Age of the 2439
Diet of the 2442
General remarks on the 2435-8
Health and morality of the 2440
Spirits, wines, and narcotics to be avoided 2443
Nutmeg, the 378
Nuts, dish of 1599
hazel and filbert 1599
Nasturtium, uses of the 482
Nasturtiums, pickled 482
Nature and art in nursing 2445-2452
Navet, description of the 1168
Nectar, Welsh 1830
Nectarines, preserved 1562
Needlework 2325
Negus, how to make 1835
Nesselrode pudding 1313
Nitric acid 2650
Normandy pippins, stewed 1563
Notice to quit 2716
Noxious trades 2712
Noyeau cream 1452
Homemade 1825
Nurse, attention to children's behaviors 2401
Carrying an infant 2398
Convulsion fits 2406
Croup 2407
Teething 2405
General duties of the nurse 2402-4
Habits of cleanliness in children 2400
Whooping cough 2408
Measles and scarlet fever 2410-12
Miss Nightingale's comments on children 2414-5
Worms 2409
Nursemaids, upper and under 2397
Nurse, Monthly, age of 2431
Nurse, Monthly, attention to cleanliness
in the patient's room 2433
Choosing a nurse 2429
Doctor's instructions must be followed 2430
General duties of the nurse 2432
Infant should not be exposed to light or cold too early 2434
Nurse, Sick, airing the bed 2425
Attention to food 2427
Bad odors must be eliminated 2422
Cleanliness, necessity of 2421
Diet suitable to the patient's preferences 2428
Duties of the nurse 2416
Importance of fresh air in the sick room 2417
Night air being harmful is a myth 2426
Opening windows and doors 2418-9
Patient should not be disturbed 2424
Quietness in the patient's room 2423
Ventilation is necessary in fevers 2402
Nurse, Wet, avoiding improper food 2411
Age of the wet nurse 2439
Diet for the wet nurse 2442
General remarks on the wet nurse 2435-8
Health and ethics of the wet nurse 2440
Alcohol, wines, and narcotics should be avoided 2443
Nutmeg, the 378
Nuts, dish of 1599
hazelnut and filbert 1599
Olive and olive oil 506
Omelet, au Thon 1494
Aux confitures, or jam omelet 1460
Bachelor's 1462
Ham 1457
Kidney 1458
Plain, sweet 1459
Soufflé 1461
The Cure's p. 753
To make a plain 1456
Onion before the Christian era 139
History of the 485
Origin of the 1131
Properties of the 1130
Sauce, brown 485
or Soubise, French 483
white 484
Soup 138-9
Onions, burnt, for gravies 1130
Pickled 486-7
Spanish, baked 1129
pickled 527
stewed 1131
Open jam tart 1365
Opium and its preparations 2662
Orange, and cloves 1565
Brandy 1826
Cream 1463-4
Fritters 1465
Gravy 483
In Portugal, the 1565
Jelly 1454
Orange, jelly, moulded with slices of orange 1455
Marmalade 1566-7
an easy way of making 1568
made with honey 1569
Pudding, baked 1314
Salad 1571
Seville 1464
Tree, the first in France 1564
Uses of the 1314
Wine 1827
Oranges, a pretty dish of 1466
Compote of 1565
Iced 1564
To preserve 1570
Ox, the 176
Cheek, soup 176
stewed 638
Feet, or cowheel, fried 639
Tail, broiled 652
soup 177
Tails, stewed 610
Oxalic acid 2652
Oyster, and scallop 288
Excellence of the English 291
Fishery 289
Forcemeat 489
Ketchup 490
Patties 289
Sauce 492
Season 197
Soup 196-7
The edible 286
Oysters, fried 286
in batter 291
Pickled 491
Scalloped 287
Stewed 288
To keep 290
Olive and olive oil 506
Omelet, with Tuna 1494
With jam, or jam omelet 1460
Bachelor's 1462
Ham 1457
Kidney 1458
Plain, sweet 1459
Soufflé 1461
The Cure's p. 753
To make a plain one 1456
Onion before the Christian era 139
History of it 485
Origin of it 1131
Properties of it 1130
Brown sauce 485
or Soubise, French 483
white 484
Soup 138-9
Onions, burnt, for gravies 1130
Pickled 486-7
Spanish, baked 1129
pickled 527
stewed 1131
Open jam tart 1365
Opium and its preparations 2662
Orange, and cloves 1565
Brandy 1826
Cream 1463-4
Fritters 1465
Gravy 483
In Portugal, the 1565
Jelly 1454
Orange, jelly, shaped with slices of orange 1455
Marmalade 1566-7
an easy way to make 1568
made with honey 1569
Baked pudding 1314
Salad 1571
Seville 1464
Tree, the first in France 1564
Uses of the 1314
Wine 1827
Oranges, a nice dish of 1466
Compote of 1565
Iced 1564
To preserve 1570
Ox, the 176
Cheek, soup 176
stewed 638
Feet, or cowheel, fried 639
Tail, broiled 652
soup 177
Tails, stewed 610
Oxalic acid 2652
Oyster, and scallop 288
Excellence of the English 291
Fishery 289
Forcemeat 489
Ketchup 490
Patties 289
Sauce 492
Season 197
Soup 196-7
The edible 286
Oysters, fried 286
in batter 291
Pickled 491
Scalloped 287
Stewed 288
To keep 290
Paint, to remove from silk cloth 2276
Pan kail 140
Panada 420
Pancakes, French 1425
Richer 1468
To make 1467
Parsley, and butter 493
Fried 494
How used by the ancients 123, 493
Juice (for colouring various dishes) 495
To preserve through the winter 496
Parsnip, description of the 141, 1132
Soup 141
Parsnips, to boil 1132
Partridge, the 178,1039
Broiled 1035
Hashed, or salmi de perdrix 1038
Pie 1036
Potted 1037
Roast 1039
Soup 178
To carve a 1057
Paste, almond 1220
Common, for family pies 1207
French puff, or feuilletage 1208
Paste, medium puff 1206
Soyer's recipe for puff 1209
Very good puff 1205
Pastry, and puddings, general observations on 1175-9
Ramakins to serve with cheese course 1650
Sandwiches 1318
To ice or glaze 1334-5
Patties, chicken or fowl 928
Fried 896
Lobster 227
Oyster 289
Pavini cake 1771
Pea, origin of the 1133
Soup 144
green 142
winter, yellow 143
Sweet and heath or wood 1135
Varieties of the 143, 1134
Peas, green 1133
à la Française 1134
stewed 1135
Peach, and nectarine 1572
Description of the 1469
Fritters 1469
Peaches, compote of 1572
Preserved in brandy 1573
Pear 1574
Bon Chrétien 1576
Pears, à l'Allemande 1470
Baked 1574
Moulded 1471
Preserved 1575
Stewed 1576
Pepper, black 369
Long 399
Plant, growth of the 516
White 366
Perch, the 292
Boiled 292
Fried 293
Stewed with wine 294
Pestle and Mortar 421
Petites bouches 1319
Pheasant, the 1041
Broiled 1043
Cutlets 1040
Height of excellence in the 1043
Roast 1041
Brillat Savarin's recipe for 1042
Soup 179
To carve a 1059
Pickle, an excellent 497
Beetroot, to 369
Capsicums, to 385
Cucumbers, to 399
For tongues or beef 611
Gherkins, to 428
Indian (very superior) 451
Lemons, to 456
with the peel on 455
Mixed 471
Mushrooms, to 478
Nasturtiums, to 482
Onions, to 486-7
Spanish, to 527
Oysters, to 491
Red cabbage, to 493
Universal 533
Walnuts, to 534
Pickles of the Greeks and Romans 452
Keeping 451
Pie, apple, or tart 1233
Beef-steak 604
Chicken or fowl 929
Eel 253
Fish and oyster 257
Giblet 966
Grouse 1024
Lark 971
Mince 1311
Mutton 733-4
Partridge 1036
Pigeon 975
Pork, raised 835
little 836
Poultry or game, raised 1340
Rabbit 981
Sole or cod 322
Tench and eel 349
Veal 897
and ham 898
raised 1341
olive 895
Pig, Guinea 997
How roast pig was discovered 841
to silence a 812
Novel way of recovering a stolen 819
Sucking, to carve a 842
roast 841
to scald 840
The learned 840
Pig's cheeks, to dry 830
Face, collared 823
Fry, to dress 824
Liver 831
Pettitocs 832
Pigs, Austrian mode of herding 796
English mode of hunting and Indian sticking 800
How pastured and fed formerly 805
Pigeon, the 974
Barb 976
Breeding 974
Carrier 974
Fantail 976
House or dovecot, aspect of 974
Jacobin 976
Necessity of cleanliness in the 974
Nun 975
Owl 976
Pie 975
Pouter 973
Rock 976
Runt 975
To carve a 1003
Trumpeter 975
Tumbler 975
Turbit 976
Wood or wild 975
Pigeons, broiled 973
Roast 974
Stewed 970
Pike, the 293
Baked 296
Boiled 295
Pineapple 1472, 1478
Chips 1577
Fritters 1472
In Heathendom 1578
Preserved 1578
for present use 1579
Pippins, stewed, Normandy 1563
Plaice, the 298
Fried 297
Stewed 298
Plate-cleaning 2317-18
Plover, description of the 1044
To carve a 1066
dress a 1044
Plovers' eggs 1626
Plum, an excellent pudding 1325
Cake, common 1768
nice 1769
Jam 1580
Pudding, baked 1324
Pudding sauce 499
Tart 1331
Plums 1330
French, box of 1600
stewed 1583
Cultivation of 1582
Origin of the names of 1580
Preserved 1581
To preserve dry 1582
Poisonous food 2665
Mushrooms 2666
Poisons 2647
Calomel 2658
Copper 2659
Emetic tartar 2656
Lead, and its preparations 2661
Opium and its preparations 2662
Symptoms of having inhaled strong fumes of smelling salts 2655
swallowed 2618
alkalis 2654
arsenic 2656
corrosive sublimate 2657
muriatic acid 2651
nitric acid 2650
oxalic acid 2652
prussic acid 2653
sulphuric acid 2649
Syrup of poppies and Godfrey's cordial 2663
Treatment after taking henbane hemlock, nightshade, or foxglove 2664
Polish tartlets 1320
Pomatum, an excellent 2256
Pork, carving 842
Cheese 799
Cutlets 796
Cutlets or chops 797-8
Griskin of, roast 827
Hashed 801
Leg of, boiled 826
roast 800
to carve a 844
Loin of, roast 829
Pickled, to boil 834
Pies 835
little, raised 836
Sausages, to make 837
To pickle 833
Portable soup 180
Potato, the 147
Analysis of 1138
As an article of food 1148
Bread 1141
Fritters 1474
Patty 1332
Properties of the 1137
Pudding 1333
Qualities of the 1147
Rissoles 1147
Salad 1154
Snow 1148
Soup 145-6-7
Starch 1139
Sugar 1136
Uses of the 1140
Varieties of the 1146
Potatoes, à la maître d'hôtel 1144
Baked 1136
Fried, French fashion 1142
German way of cooking 1143
How to use cold 1141
Mashed 1145
Preserving 1143
Purée de pommes de terre 1146
To boil 1137
in their jackets 1138
new 1139
To steam 1140
Potted beef 642-3
Chicken or fowl 930
Ham 815
Hare 1028
Partridge 1037
Shrimps 312
Veal 899
Poulet, à la Marengo 949
Aux cressons 964
Poultry, in season, January to December pp. 33-7
Pound cake 1770
Pounded cheese 1648
Prawn, the 198
Soup 198
Prawns or shrimps, buttered 313
To boil 299
To dress 300
Prescriptions, general remarks on 2580
Blister, an ordinary 2598
Clyster 2582
Draught 2581
common black 2587
Drugs, list of, necessary to carry out all instructions 2579
Liniment 2583
Lotion 2584
Goulard 2585
Opodeldoc 2586
Mixtures, aperient 2588
fever 2589
Pills 2592
compound iron 2591
myrrh and aloes 2590
Poultice 2604
Abernethy's plan for
making a bread-and-water 2595
linseed meal 2596
mustard 2597
Powders 2593
Preserved, and dried greengages 1553
Cherries in syrup 1529
Damsons 1539
or any other kind of plums 1540
Ginger 1432
Greengages in syrup 1554
Morello cherries 1561
Mulberries 1560
Nectarines 1562
Oranges 1570
Peaches in brandy 1573
Pineapple 1578
Plums 1581
Pumpkin 1584
Strawberries in wine 1595
whole 1596
Preserves, general observations on 1495, 1507
Primitive ages, simplicity of the 63-4
Prince of Wales soup 148
Property law 2696-8
Prussic acid 2653
Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045
To carve a 1064
To dress a 1045
Pudding, Alma 1237
Almond, baked 1221
small 1222
Apple, baked, very good 1231
economical 1229
rich 1228
boiled 1232
iced 1290
rich sweet 1230
Apricot, baked 1238
Arrowroot, baked or boiled 1249
Asparagus 1089
Aunt Nelly's 1224
Bachelor's 1241
Bakewell 1242-3
Baroness 1244
Batter, baked 1246
with dried or fresh fruit 1247
boiled 1248
Beefsteak and kidney 605
baked 600
Bread, baked 1250
boiled 1252
brown 1253
Bread, miniature 1254
very plain 1251
Bread-and-butter, baked 1255
Cabinet, or chancellor's 1256
plain, or boiled bread-and-butter 1257
Canary 1258
Carrot, baked or boiled 1259
Christmas, for children, plain 1327
plum 1328
Cold 1262
College 1263
Currant, black or red 1266
boiled 1265
Custard, baked 1268
boiled 1269
Damson 1271
Delhi 1272
Empress 1273
Exeter 1274
Fig 1275
Staffordshire recipe 1276
Folkestone pudding pies 1277
German 1279
or Dampfnudeln 1280
Ginger 1281
Golden 1282
Gooseberry, baked 1283
boiled 1284
Half-pay 1286
Herodotus 1287
Hunter's 1288
Iced 1289
Lemon, baked 1295-7
boiled 1298
plain 1299
Macaroni, sweet 1301
Manchester 1300
Manna kroup 1302
Mansfield 1303
Marlborough 1304
Marmalade and vermicelli 1305
Marrow, boiled or baked 1307
Military 1308
Monday's 1312
Mutton 735
Nesselrode 1313
Orange, baked 1314
batter 1249
Paradise 1322
Pease 1323
Plum, an excellent 1325
baked 1324
fresh fruit 1330
Potato 1333
Pound, plum 1329
an unrivalled 1326
Quickly made 1366
Raisin, baked 1336
boiled 1337
Rhubarb, boiled 1338
Rice, baked 1342
more economical 1343
boiled with dried and fresh fruit 1345-6
French, or gâteau de riz 1352
ground, boiled or baked 1353
iced 1354
miniature 1355
plain, boiled 1344
Roly-poly jam 1291
Royal Coburg 1260
Sago 1367
Semolina, baked 1369
Somersetshire 1374
Suet, to serve with roast meat 1375
Tapioca 1370
Treacle, rolled 1372
Toad-in-the-hole 672
of cold meat 743
Vermicelli 1377
Vicarage 1378
West Indian 1382
Yorkshire 1384
Puddings and pastry, directions for making 1180, 1204
general observations on 1175-1179
Puits d'amour, or puff-paste rings 1321
Pumpkin, preserved 1584
Punch 1839
To make hot 1839
Purchasing a house 2695-98
Paint, for removing from silk cloth 2276
Pan kail 140
Panada 420
French pancakes 1425
Richer 1468
How to make 1467
Parsley and butter 493
Fried 494
How used by the ancients 123, 493
Juice (for coloring various dishes) 495
To preserve for the winter 496
Parsnip, description of the 141, 1132
Soup 141
Parsnips, to boil 1132
Partridge, the 178,1039
Broiled 1035
Hashed, or salmi de perdrix 1038
Pie 1036
Potted 1037
Roast 1039
Soup 178
To carve a 1057
Almond paste 1220
Common paste, for family pies 1207
French puff pastry, or feuilletage 1208
Medium puff pastry 1206
Soyer's recipe for puff pastry 1209
Very good puff pastry 1205
General observations on pastry and puddings 1175-9
Ramakins to serve with the cheese course 1650
Sandwiches 1318
To ice or glaze 1334-5
Chicken or fowl patties 928
Fried 896
Lobster 227
Oyster 289
Pavini cake 1771
Pea, origin of the 1133
Soup 144
Green 142
Winter, yellow 143
Sweet and heath or wood 1135
Varieties of the 143, 1134
Green peas 1133
À la Française 1134
Stewed 1135
Peach and nectarine 1572
Description of the 1469
Fritters 1469
Peaches, compote of 1572
Preserved in brandy 1573
Pear 1574
Bon Chrétien 1576
Pears, à l'Allemande 1470
Baked 1574
Moulded 1471
Preserved 1575
Stewed 1576
Black pepper 369
Long pepper 399
Plant, growth of the 516
White pepper 366
Perch, the 292
Boiled 292
Fried 293
Stewed with wine 294
Pestle and mortar 421
Petites bouches 1319
Pheasant, the 1041
Broiled 1043
Cutlets 1040
Height of excellence in the 1043
Roast 1041
Brillat Savarin's recipe for 1042
Soup 179
To carve a 1059
Excellent pickle 497
Beetroot, to 369
Capsicums, to 385
Cucumbers, to 399
For tongues or beef 611
Gherkins, to 428
Indian (very superior) 451
Lemons, to 456
With the peel on 455
Mixed 471
Mushrooms, to 478
Nasturtiums, to 482
Onions, to 486-7
Spanish, to 527
Oysters, to 491
Red cabbage, to 493
Universal 533
Walnuts, to 534
Pickles of the Greeks and Romans 452
Keeping 451
Apple pie or tart 1233
Beef-steak 604
Chicken or fowl 929
Eel 253
Fish and oyster 257
Giblet 966
Grouse 1024
Lark 971
Mince 1311
Mutton 733-4
Partridge 1036
Pigeon 975
Raised pork 835
Little pork 836
Raised poultry or game 1340
Rabbit 981
Sole or cod 322
Tench and eel 349
Veal 897
And ham 898
Raised veal 1341
Olive 895
Guinea pig 997
How roasted pig was discovered 841
To silence a 812
Novel way of recovering a stolen 819
Sucking pig, to carve a 842
Roasted 841
To scald 840
The learned 840
Pig's cheeks, to dry 830
Face, collared 823
Fry, to dress 824
Liver 831
Pettitocs 832
Pigs, Austrian method of herding 796
English method of hunting and Indian sticking 800
How pastured and fed in the past 805
Pigeon, the 974
Barb 976
Breeding 974
Carrier 974
Fantail 976
House or dovecot, layout of 974
Jacobin 976
Need for cleanliness in the 974
Nun 975
Owl 976
Pie 975
Pouter 973
Rock 976
Runt 975
To carve a 1003
Trumpeter 975
Tumbler 975
Turbit 976
Wood or wild 975
Pigeons, broiled 973
Roasted 974
Stewed 970
Pike, the 293
Baked 296
Boiled 295
Pineapple 1472, 1478
Chips 1577
Fritters 1472
In Heathendom 1578
Preserved 1578
For present use 1579
Stewed Normandy pippins 1563
Plaice, the 298
Fried 297
Stewed 298
Plate-cleaning 2317-18
Plover, description of the 1044
To carve a 1066
Dress a 1044
Plovers' eggs 1626
Plum, an excellent pudding 1325
Common cake 1768
Nice 1769
Jam 1580
Baked pudding 1324
Pudding sauce 499
Tart 1331
Plums 1330
French, box of 1600
Stewed 1583
Cultivation of 1582
Origin of the names of 1580
Preserved 1581
To preserve dry 1582
Poisonous food 2665
Mushrooms 2666
Poisons 2647
Calomel 2658
Copper 2659
Emetic tartar 2656
Lead and its preparations 2661
Opium and its preparations 2662
Symptoms of inhaling strong fumes of smelling salts 2655
Swallowed 2618
Alkalis 2654
Arsenic 2656
Corrosive sublimate 2657
Muriatic acid 2651
Nitric acid 2650
Oxalic acid 2652
Prussic acid 2653
Sulphuric acid 2649
Syrup of poppies and Godfrey's cordial 2663
Treatment after taking henbane, hemlock, nightshade, or foxglove 2664
Polish tartlets 1320
Excellent pomatum 2256
Carving pork 842
Cheese 799
Cutlets 796
Cutlets or chops 797-8
Roast griskin 827
Hashed 801
Leg of pork, boiled 826
Roasted 800
To carve a 844
Roast loin of pork 829
Pickled, to boil 834
Pies 835
Little, raised 836
To make sausages 837
To pickle 833
Portable soup 180
Potato, the 147
Analysis of 1138
As a food source 1148
Bread 1141
Fritters 1474
Patty 1332
Properties of the 1137
Pudding 1333
Qualities of the 1147
Rissoles 1147
Salad 1154
Snow 1148
Soup 145-6-7
Starch 1139
Sugar 1136
Uses of the 1140
Varieties of the 1146
Potatoes, à la maître d'hôtel 1144
Baked 1136
Fried in French style 1142
German cooking method 1143
How to use cold 1141
Mashed 1145
Preserving 1143
Purée de pommes de terre 1146
To boil 1137
In their jackets 1138
New 1139
To steam 1140
Potted beef 642-3
Chicken or fowl 930
Ham 815
Hare 1028
Partridge 1037
Shrimps 312
Veal 899
Poulet, à la Marengo 949
With cress 964
Poultry, in season, January to December pp. 33-7
Pound cake 1770
Pounded cheese 1648
Prawn, the 198
Soup 198
Prawns or shrimps, buttered 313
To boil 299
To dress 300
Prescriptions, general remarks on 2580
Ordinary blister 2598
Clyster 2582
Draught 2581
Common black 2587
List of drugs necessary to carry out all instructions 2579
Liniment 2583
Lotion 2584
Goulard 2585
Opodeldoc 2586
Aperient mixtures 2588
Fever 2589
Pills 2592
Compound iron 2591
Myrrh and aloes 2590
Poultice 2604
Abernethy's plan for
Making a bread-and-water 2595
Linseed meal 2596
Mustard 2597
Powders 2593
Preserved and dried greengages 1553
Cherries in syrup 1529
Damsons 1539
Or any other plums 1540
Ginger 1432
Greengages in syrup 1554
Morello cherries 1561
Mulberries 1560
Nectarines 1562
Oranges 1570
Peaches in brandy 1573
Pineapple 1578
Plums 1581
Pumpkin 1584
Strawberries in wine 1595
Whole 1596
General observations on preserves 1495, 1507
Primitive ages, simplicity of the 63-4
Prince of Wales soup 148
Property law 2696-8
Prussic acid 2653
Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045
To carve a 1064
To dress a 1045
Pudding, Alma 1237
Almond, baked 1221
Small 1222
Apple, baked, very good 1231
Economical 1229
Rich 1228
Boiled 1232
Iced 1290
Rich sweet 1230
Apricot, baked 1238
Arrowroot, baked or boiled 1249
Asparagus 1089
Aunt Nelly's 1224
Bachelor's 1241
Bakewell 1242-3
Baroness 1244
Batter, baked 1246
With dried or fresh fruit 1247
Boiled 1248
Beefsteak and kidney 605
Baked 600
Bread, baked 1250
Boiled 1252
Brown 1253
Bread, miniature 1254
Very plain 1251
Bread-and-butter, baked 1255
Cabinet, or chancellor's 1256
Plain or boiled bread-and-butter 1257
Canary 1258
Carrot, baked or boiled 1259
Christmas, for children, plain 1327
Plum 1328
Cold 1262
College 1263
Currant, black or red 1266
Boiled 1265
Custard, baked 1268
Boiled 1269
Damson 1271
Delhi 1272
Empress 1273
Exeter 1274
Fig 1275
Staffordshire recipe 1276
Folkestone pudding pies 1277
German 1279
Or Dampfnudeln 1280
Ginger 1281
Golden 1282
Gooseberry, baked 1283
Boiled 1284
Half-pay 1286
Herodotus 1287
Hunter's 1288
Iced 1289
Lemon, baked 1295-7
Boiled 1298
Plain 1299
Macaroni, sweet 1301
Manchester 1300
Manna kroup 1302
Mansfield 1303
Marlborough 1304
Marmalade and vermicelli 1305
Marrow, boiled or baked 1307
Military 1308
Monday's 1312
Mutton 735
Nesselrode 1313
Orange, baked 1314
Batter 1249
Paradise 1322
Pease 1323
Plum, an excellent 1325
Baked 1324
Fresh fruit 1330
Potato 1333
Pound, plum 1329
An unrivaled 1326
Quickly made 1366
Raisin, baked 1336
Boiled 1337
Rhubarb, boiled 1338
Rice, baked 1342
More economical 1343
Boiled with dried and fresh fruit 1345-6
French, or gâteau de riz 1352
Ground, boiled or baked 1353
Iced 1354
Miniature 1355
Plain, boiled 1344
Roly-poly jam 1291
Royal Coburg 1260
Sago 1367
Semolina, baked 1369
Somersetshire 1374
Suet, to serve with roast meat 1375
Tapioca 1370
Rolled treacle 1372
Toad-in-the-hole 672
Of cold meat 743
Vermicelli 1377
Vicarage 1378
West Indian 1382
Yorkshire 1384
Directions for making puddings and pastry 1180, 1204
General observations on 1175-1179
Puits d'amour, or puff pastry rings 1321
Pumpkin, preserved 1584
Punch 1839
To make hot 1839
Purchasing a house 2695-98
Quadrupeds, general observations on 585, 597
Quail, description of the 1046
To carve a 1065
To dress a 1046
Queen-cakes 1773
Quenelles à tortue 189
Veal 422
Quince, the 1233
Jelly 1585
Marmalade 1586
Quin's sauce 500
Quadrupeds, general observations on 585, 597
Quail, description of the 1046
To carve a 1065
To dress a 1046
Queen cakes 1773
Turtle dumplings 189
Veal 422
Quince, the 1233
Jelly 1585
Marmalade 1586
Quin's sauce 500
Rabbit, à la minute 980
Angora 985
Boiled 977
Common wild 978
Curried 978
Fecundity of the 981
Fried 979
Habitat of the 977
Hare 985
Himalaya 985
House 982
Hutch 983
Pie 981
Ragoût of, or hare 982
Roast or baked 983
Soup 181
Stewed 984
in milk 1874
larded 985
To carve a 1004
Varieties of the 979
Rabbits, fancy 984
Radish, varieties of the 1152
Raised pie, of poultry or game 1340
Pork 835-6
Veal and ham 1841
Raisin, the 1327
Raisins, cheese 1587
Grape 1324
Pudding, baked 1336
boiled 1337
Ramakins, pastry 1650
To serve with cheese course 1649
Raspberry, and currant salad 1592
tart 1267
Cream 1175
Jam 1588
Jelly 1589
Vinegar 1828
Raspberries, red and white 1267
Ratafias 1745
Ravigotte, a French salad sauce 501
Reading sauce 502
Rearing by hand 2497-8
Rearing, management, and diseases of infancy and childhood 2415-2577
Receipts 2730
Regency soup 182
Rémoulade, or French salad dressing 503
Rent, recovery of 2719-22
Rhubarb, and orange jam 1591
Description of 1339
Jam 1590
Pudding, boiled 1338
Tart 1339
Wine 1829
Ribbons, or silk, to clean 2275
Rice, and apples 1400
Biscuits or cakes 1746
Blancmange 1476
Boiled for curries 1347
Bread 1720
Buttered 1349
Cake 1772
Casserole of, savoury 1350
sweet 1351
Croquettes 1477
Esteemed by the ancients 1349
Fritters 1478
Ground 1746
boiled 1353
Iced 1354
Indian, origin of 150
Milk 1875
Paddy 1347
Pudding, baked 1342
more economical 1343
boiled 1345
plain 1344
with dried or fresh fruit 1346
French, or gâteau de riz 1352
Miniature 1355
Qualities of 1342
Snowballs 1479
Soufflé 1480
Soup 150-1
To boil for curries 1348
Varieties of 1345
Ringworm, cure for 2667
Alterative powders for 2668
Rinsing 2379
Rissoles, beef 465
Roach, the 243
Roasting, age of 65
Memoranda in 657
Rock biscuits 1747
Rolls, excellent 1723
Fluted 1317
Hot 1724
Meat, or sausage 1373
Roux, brown, for thickening sauces 525
White, 526
Rusks, Italian 1733
To make 1734
Rabbit, at minute 980
Angora 985
Boiled 977
Common wild 978
Curried 978
Fecundity of the 981
Fried 979
Habitat of the 977
Hare 985
Himalaya 985
House 982
Hutch 983
Pie 981
Ragoût of, or hare 982
Roast or baked 983
Soup 181
Stewed 984
in milk 1874
larded 985
To carve a 1004
Varieties of the 979
Rabbits, fancy 984
Radish, varieties of the 1152
Raised pie, of poultry or game 1340
Pork 835-6
Veal and ham 1841
Raisin, the 1327
Raisins, cheese 1587
Grape 1324
Pudding, baked 1336
boiled 1337
Ramakins, pastry 1650
To serve with cheese course 1649
Raspberry, and currant salad 1592
tart 1267
Cream 1175
Jam 1588
Jelly 1589
Vinegar 1828
Raspberries, red and white 1267
Ratafias 1745
Ravigotte, a French salad sauce 501
Reading sauce 502
Rearing by hand 2497-8
Rearing, management, and diseases of infancy and childhood 2415-2577
Receipts 2730
Regency soup 182
Rémoulade, or French salad dressing 503
Rent, recovery of 2719-22
Rhubarb, and orange jam 1591
Description of 1339
Jam 1590
Pudding, boiled 1338
Tart 1339
Wine 1829
Ribbons, or silk, to clean 2275
Rice, and apples 1400
Biscuits or cakes 1746
Blancmange 1476
Boiled for curries 1347
Bread 1720
Buttered 1349
Cake 1772
Casserole of, savory 1350
sweet 1351
Croquettes 1477
Esteemed by the ancients 1349
Fritters 1478
Ground 1746
boiled 1353
Iced 1354
Indian, origin of 150
Milk 1875
Paddy 1347
Pudding, baked 1342
more economical 1343
boiled 1345
plain 1344
with dried or fresh fruit 1346
French, or gâteau de riz 1352
Miniature 1355
Qualities of 1342
Snowballs 1479
Soufflé 1480
Soup 150-1
To boil for curries 1348
Varieties of 1345
Ringworm, cure for 2667
Alterative powders for 2668
Rinsing 2379
Rissoles, beef 465
Roach, the 243
Roasting, age of 65
Memoranda in 657
Rock biscuits 1747
Rolls, excellent 1723
Fluted 1317
Hot 1724
Meat, or sausage 1373
Roux, brown, for thickening sauces 525
White, 526
Rusks, Italian 1733
To make 1734
Sage 427
And onion stuffing 501
Sago, alimentary properties of 1367
How procured 152
Pudding 1367
Sauce for sweet puddings 1368
Soup 152
Salad, a poetic recipe for 508
Boiled 1151
Chicken 931
Dressing 506-8
French 503
Grouse 1026
Lobster 272
Orange 1571
Potato 1154
Scarcity of, in England 505
Summer 1152
Winter 1153
Salads 1153
Salmi de perdrix, or hashed partridge 1038
Salmon, à la Genevese 307
And caper sauce 302
Aversion of the 309
Boiled 301
Collared 303
Crimped 304
Curried 305
Cutlets 306
Growth of the 305
Habitat of the 303
Migratory habits of the 302
Pickled 308
Potted 309
To carve p. 175
choose 301
cure 308
Tribe 304
Salsify, description of 1149
To dress 1149
Salt, action of on meat 607
Common 403
Fish 233
Meat, Soyer's recipe for preserving the gravy in 609
Sandwiches, of cheese 1611
Pastry 1318
Toast 1877
Victoria 1491
Sauce, à l'Aurore 511
A la matelote 512
Allemande, or German sauce 509
Anchovy, for fish 362
Sage 427
And onion stuffing 501
Sago, nutritional properties of 1367
How to obtain 152
Pudding 1367
Sauce for sweet puddings 1368
Soup 152
Salad, a creative recipe for 508
Boiled 1151
Chicken 931
Dressing 506-8
French 503
Grouse 1026
Lobster 272
Orange 1571
Potato 1154
Shortage of, in England 505
Summer 1152
Winter 1153
Salads 1153
Salmi de perdrix, or hashed partridge 1038
Salmon, à la Genevese 307
And caper sauce 302
Dislike of the 309
Boiled 301
Collared 303
Crimped 304
Curried 305
Cutlets 306
Growth of the 305
Habitat of the 303
Migratory habits of the 302
Pickled 308
Potted 309
To carve p. 175
choose 301
cure 308
Species 304
Salsify, description of 1149
How to prepare 1149
Salt, effect on meat 607
Common 403
Fish 233
Meat, Soyer's recipe for preserving the gravy in 609
Sandwiches, of cheese 1611
Pastry 1318
Toast 1877
Victoria 1491
Sauce, à l'Aurore 511
A la matelote 512
Allemande, or German sauce 509
Anchovy, for fish 362
Sauce, apple, brown 364
for geese or pork 363
Aristocratique 510
Arrowroot, for puddings 1356
Asparagus 365
Béchamel, or French white sauce 367
maigre 368
Benton 370
Beurre noir, or browned butter, a French sauce 374
Bread 371-2
Browning for 373
Butter, melted 376-7
made with milk 380
maitre d'hôtel 465
thickened 379
Camp vinegar 381
Caper, for boiled mutton 382
for fish 383
a substitute for 384
Celery, for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387
a more simple recipe 388
Cherry, for sweet puddings 1357
Chestnut, brown 391
for turkey or fowls 390
Chili vinegar 393
Christopher North's, for game or meat 394
Consommé, or white stock for 395
Crab, for fish 396
Cream, for fish or white dishes 397
Cucumber 398
white 400
Custard, for sweet puddings or tart 404
Dutch, for fish 405
green, or Hollandaise verte 406
Egg, for salt fish 409
Epicurean 410
Espagnole, or brown Spanish 411
Fennel, for mackerel 412
Fish 413
For boiled puddings 514
steaks 516
wildfowl 519
Genevese, for salmon, trout, &c. 427
Gooseberry, for boiled mackerel 429
Green, for green geese or ducklings 431
Horseradish 447
Hot spice 524
Indian chetney 452
Italian, brown 453
white 454
Leamington 459
Lemon, for boiled fowls 457
for fowls and fricassees, white 458
for sweet puddings 1358
Liaison of eggs for thickening 461
Liver and lemon, for poultry 462
parsley 463
Lobster 464
Maigre maître d'hôtel (hot) 467
Maître d'hôtel (hot) 466
Mango chetney (Bengal recipe) 392
Mayonnaise 468
Melted butter 376-8
Mint 469
Mushroom, a very rich and good 479
brown 474
ketchup 472
white 475-6
Onion, brown 485
French, or Soubise 483
white 484
Oyster 492
Parsley and butter 493
Piquante 513
Plum-pudding 499
Quin's (an excellent fish-sauce) 500
Ravigotte 501
Reading 502
Robert 515
Sago, for sweet puddings 1368
Shrimp 522
Soyer's, for plum-puddings 1359
Store, or Cherokee 528
Sweet, for puddings 1360
venison 518
Thickening for 525-6
Tomato 529-32
Tournée 517
Vanilla custard 1361
Wine, excellent for puddings 1362
for puddings 1364
or brandy 1363
white 537-9
Sauces and gravies, in the Middle Ages 433
Manufacture of 510
Pickles, gravies, and forcemeats, remarks on 354, 361
Saucer-cakes, for tea 1774
Sausage, meat cakes 839
Meat stuffing 520
Or meat rolls 1373
Sausages, beef 662
Pork, fried 838
to make 837
Veal 904
Savory 446
Savoury jelly for meat pies 521
Savoy, the 140
Biscuits or cakes 1748
Cake 1782
Scarlatina, or scarlet fever 2560-3
Scotch, collops 870
white 871
Eggs 1666
Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1651
Shortbread 1780
Woodcock 1653
Scrap cakes 1779
Scratches 2669
Sea-bream, the 310
baked 310
Mr. Yarrell's recipe 310
Kale, description of 1150
To boil 1150
Seed, biscuits 1749
Cake, common 1775
very good 1776
Semolina, pudding, baked 1369
Qualities of 153
Soup 153
Uses of 1369
Shad, the 311
To dress 311
Shalot, or Eschalot 410
Sheep, the 175
General observations on the 678, 697
Poets on the 730
Sheep's brains, en matelote 740
Feet, or trotters 741
Head, to dress 742
singed 742
Shepherd, the Ettrick 739
The Good 705
Shepherds and their flocks 710
Sherry 1416
Pale 1426
Shortbread, Scotch 1780
Shrimp, the 313
Sauce 522
Shrimps, or prawns, buttered 313
to boil 299
Potted 312
Sick-rooms, caution in visiting 2692
Sirloin, origin of the word 659
Skate, the 315
Boiled 314
Crimped 315
Small, fried 317
Species of 317
To choose 315
With caper sauce (à la Française) 316
Smelt, the 319
Odour of the 318
Smelts, to bake 318
To fry 319
Snipe, description of the 1047
Snipes, to carve 1060
To dress 1047
Snow cake 1777-8
Eggs, or oeufs à la neige 1482
Snowballs, apple 1235
Rice 1479
Soda, biscuits 1751
Bread 1722
Cake 1781
Carbonate of 1765
Sole, the 320
Flavour of the 324
Or cod pie 322
Soles, a favourite dish of the ancient Greeks 323
Baked 320
Boiled 321
or fried, to carve p. 175
Filleted, à l'Italienne 324
Fricasseed 325
Fried 327
filleted 326
How caught 325
To choose 320
With cream sauce 323
mushrooms 328
Sorrel 131
Qualities of 431
Soufflé, apple 1402
Chocolate 1427
Omelette 1461
Rice 1480
To make a 1481
Soufflés, general observations on 1388
Soup, à la cantatrice 119
Crecy 126
Flamande 129-30
Julienne 131
Reine 183-4
Solferino 154
Almond 110
Apple 111
Artichoke, Jerusalem 112
Asparagus 113-14
Baked 115
Barley 116
Bread 117
Brilla 166
Broth and bouillon, general remarks on 91-5
Cabbage 118
Calf's head 167
Carrot 120-1
Celery 122
Chantilly 123
Chemistry and economy of making 96, 103
Chestnut, Spanish 124
Cock-a Leekie 134
Cocoa-nut 125
Crayfish 193
Cucumber 127
Eel 194
Egg 128
Family, a good 190
Fish, stock 192
General directions for making 88
Giblet 168
Gravy 169
Hare 170
Hessian 171
Hodge-podge 191
In season, January to December pp. 57, 104
Kale brose 132
Leek 133
Lobster 195
Macaroni 135
Maigre 136
Making, the chemistry of 96-103
Milk 137
Mock-turtle 172-3
Mutton, good 175
Ox-cheek 176
Ox-tail 177
Oyster 196-7
Pan kail 140
Parsnip 141
Partridge 178
Pea, green 144
inexpensive 142
winter, yellow 143
Pheasant 179
Portable 180
Potage printanier 149
Potato 145-7
Prawn 198
Prince of Wales 148
Rabbit 181
Regency 182
Rice 150-1
Sago 152
Seasonings for 90
Semolina 153
Spanish chestnut 124
Spinach 155
Spring 149
Stew 186-7
of salt meat 185
Tapioca 156
Turkey 188
Turnip 157
Turtle 189
Useful for benevolent purposes 165
Vegetable 159-161
marrow 158
Vermicelli 162-3
White 164
Sow, Berkshire 781
Chinese 785
Cumberland 784
Essex 782
Price of, in Africa 816
Yorkshire 783
Soy 497
Soyer's recipe for goose stuffing 505
Spanish onions pickled 527
Spiced beef 665
Spinach, description of 1156
Dressed with cream, à la Française 1156
French mode of dressing 1157
Green, for colouring dishes 523
Soup 155
To boil, English mode 1155
Varieties of 155, 1155
Sponge cake 1783
Small, to make 1785
Lemon 1448
Sprains 2671
Sprat, the 331
Sprats 329
Dried 331
Fried in batter 330
Sprouts 1096
Boiled, Brussels 1096
To boil young greens, or 1097
Stables and coach-house 2204
Heat of 2205
Stains of syrup, or preserved fruits,
to remove 2273
Stalls 2207
Stammering 2673
Cure for 2672
Stamp duties 2742
Starch, to make 2391-2
Starching 2390
Stew soup 185-7
Stilton cheese 1639
Stock, browning for 108
Stock, cow-heel 1412
Economical 106
For gravies, general 432
For jelly 1411
Medium 105
Rich strong 104
To clarify 109
White 107
Stomach, digestion 2457-9
Stone cream 1483
Store sauce, or Cherokee 528
Strawberry, jam 1594
Jelly 1484
Name of, among the Greeks 1381
Origin of the name 1365
Strawberries, and cream 1593
Dish of 1606
To preserve whole 1596
in wine 1595
Stuffing, for geese, ducks, pork, &c 504
Sausage meat for turkey 520
Soyer's recipe for 505
Sturgeon, the 332
Baked 332
Estimate of, by the ancients 333
Roast 333
Stye in the eye 2630
Substitute for milk and cream 1815
Sucking-pig, to carve 842
To roast 841
scald 840
Suffocation, apparent 2674
Carbonic acid gas, choke-damp of mines 2675
Sugar, and beetroot 1211
Cane 1334
French 1211
Icing for cakes 1736
Introduction of 1336
Potato 1136
Qualities of 1212
To boil to caramel 1514
Sulphuric acid 2649
Sultana grape 1326
Suppers 2139-41
Sweetbreads, baked 906
Fried 907
Stewed 908
Sweet dishes, general observations on 1385-8
Swine, flesh of, in hot climates 835
Swineherds of antiquity 836
Saxon 838
Swiss cream 1485
Syllabub, to make 1486
Whipped 1493
Syrup, for compotes, to make 1512
Lemon 1822
Of poppies 2663
To clarify 1513
Sauce, apple, brown 364
for geese or pork 363
Aristocratic 510
Arrowroot, for puddings 1356
Asparagus 365
Béchamel, or French white sauce 367
maigre 368
Benton 370
Beurre noir, or browned butter, a French sauce 374
Bread 371-2
Browning for 373
Butter, melted 376-7
made with milk 380
maitre d’hôtel 465
thickened 379
Camp vinegar 381
Caper, for boiled mutton 382
for fish 383
a substitute for 384
Celery, for boiled turkey, poultry, &c. 387
a simpler recipe 388
Cherry, for sweet puddings 1357
Chestnut, brown 391
for turkey or fowls 390
Chili vinegar 393
Christopher North's, for game or meat 394
Consommé, or white stock for 395
Crab, for fish 396
Cream, for fish or white dishes 397
Cucumber 398
white 400
Custard, for sweet puddings or tart 404
Dutch, for fish 405
green, or Hollandaise verte 406
Egg, for salt fish 409
Epicurean 410
Espagnole, or brown Spanish 411
Fennel, for mackerel 412
Fish 413
For boiled puddings 514
steaks 516
wildfowl 519
Genevese, for salmon, trout, &c. 427
Gooseberry, for boiled mackerel 429
Green, for green geese or ducklings 431
Horseradish 447
Hot spice 524
Indian chutney 452
Italian, brown 453
white 454
Leamington 459
Lemon, for boiled fowls 457
for fowls and fricassees, white 458
for sweet puddings 1358
Liaison of eggs for thickening 461
Liver and lemon, for poultry 462
parsley 463
Lobster 464
Maigre maître d'hôtel (hot) 467
Maître d'hôtel (hot) 466
Mango chutney (Bengal recipe) 392
Mayonnaise 468
Melted butter 376-8
Mint 469
Mushroom, very rich and good 479
brown 474
ketchup 472
white 475-6
Onion, brown 485
French, or Soubise 483
white 484
Oyster 492
Parsley and butter 493
Piquante 513
Plum-pudding 499
Quin's (an excellent fish-sauce) 500
Ravigotte 501
Reading 502
Robert 515
Sago, for sweet puddings 1368
Shrimp 522
Soyer's, for plum-puddings 1359
Store, or Cherokee 528
Sweet, for puddings 1360
venison 518
Thickening for 525-6
Tomato 529-32
Tournée 517
Vanilla custard 1361
Wine, excellent for puddings 1362
for puddings 1364
or brandy 1363
white 537-9
Sauces and gravies, in the Middle Ages 433
Manufacture of 510
Pickles, gravies, and forcemeats, remarks on 354, 361
Saucer-cakes, for tea 1774
Sausage, meat cakes 839
Meat stuffing 520
Or meat rolls 1373
Sausages, beef 662
Pork, fried 838
to make 837
Veal 904
Savory 446
Savory jelly for meat pies 521
Savoy, the 140
Biscuits or cakes 1748
Cake 1782
Scarlatina, or scarlet fever 2560-3
Scotch, collops 870
white 871
Eggs 1666
Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1651
Shortbread 1780
Woodcock 1653
Scrap cakes 1779
Scratches 2669
Sea-bream, the 310
baked 310
Mr. Yarrell's recipe 310
Kale, description of 1150
To boil 1150
Seed, biscuits 1749
Cake, common 1775
very good 1776
Semolina, pudding, baked 1369
Qualities of 153
Soup 153
Uses of 1369
Shad, the 311
To dress 311
Shallot, or Eschalot 410
Sheep, the 175
General observations on the 678, 697
Poets on the 730
Sheep's brains, en matelote 740
Feet, or trotters 741
Head, to dress 742
singed 742
Shepherd, the Ettrick 739
The Good 705
Shepherds and their flocks 710
Sherry 1416
Pale 1426
Shortbread, Scotch 1780
Shrimp, the 313
Sauce 522
Shrimps, or prawns, buttered 313
to boil 299
Potted 312
Sick-rooms, caution in visiting 2692
Sirloin, origin of the word 659
Skate, the 315
Boiled 314
Crimped 315
Small, fried 317
Species of 317
To choose 315
With caper sauce (à la Française) 316
Smelt, the 319
Odour of the 318
Smelts, to bake 318
To fry 319
Snipe, description of the 1047
Snipes, to carve 1060
To dress 1047
Snow cake 1777-8
Eggs, or oeufs à la neige 1482
Snowballs, apple 1235
Rice 1479
Soda, biscuits 1751
Bread 1722
Cake 1781
Carbonate of 1765
Sole, the 320
Flavour of the 324
Or cod pie 322
Soles, a favorite dish of the ancient Greeks 323
Baked 320
Boiled 321
or fried, to carve p. 175
Filleted, à l'Italienne 324
Fricasseed 325
Fried 327
filleted 326
How caught 325
To choose 320
With cream sauce 323
mushrooms 328
Sorrel 131
Qualities of 431
Soufflé, apple 1402
Chocolate 1427
Omelette 1461
Rice 1480
To make a 1481
Soufflés, general observations on 1388
Soup, à la cantatrice 119
Crecy 126
Flamande 129-30
Julienne 131
Reine 183-4
Solferino 154
Almond 110
Apple 111
Artichoke, Jerusalem 112
Asparagus 113-14
Baked 115
Barley 116
Bread 117
Brilla 166
Broth and bouillon, general remarks on 91-5
Cabbage 118
Calf's head 167
Carrot 120-1
Celery 122
Chantilly 123
Chemistry and economy of making 96, 103
Chestnut, Spanish 124
Cock-a Leekie 134
Cocoa-nut 125
Crayfish 193
Cucumber 127
Eel 194
Egg 128
Family, a good 190
Fish, stock 192
General directions for making 88
Giblet 168
Gravy 169
Hare 170
Hessian 171
Hodge-podge 191
In season, January to December pp. 57, 104
Kale brose 132
Leek 133
Lobster 195
Macaroni 135
Maigre 136
Making, the chemistry of 96-103
Milk 137
Mock-turtle 172-3
Mutton, good 175
Ox-cheek 176
Ox-tail 177
Oyster 196-7
Pan kail 140
Parsnip 141
Partridge 178
Pea, green 144
inexpensive 142
winter, yellow 143
Pheasant 179
Portable 180
Potage printanier 149
Potato 145-7
Prawn 198
Prince of Wales 148
Rabbit 181
Regency 182
Rice 150-1
Sago 152
Seasonings for 90
Semolina 153
Spanish chestnut 124
Spinach 155
Spring 149
Stew 186-7
of salt meat 185
Tapioca 156
Turkey 188
Turnip 157
Turtle 189
Useful for benevolent purposes 165
Vegetable 159-161
marrow 158
Vermicelli 162-3
White 164
Sow, Berkshire 781
Chinese 785
Cumberland 784
Essex 782
Price of, in Africa 816
Yorkshire 783
Soy 497
Soyer's recipe for goose stuffing 505
Spanish onions pickled 527
Spiced beef 665
Spinach, description of 1156
Dressed with cream, à la Française 1156
French mode of dressing 1157
Green, for coloring dishes 523
Soup 155
To boil, English mode 1155
Varieties of 155, 1155
Sponge cake 1783
Small, to make 1785
Lemon 1448
Sprains 2671
Sprat, the 331
Sprats 329
Dried 331
Fried in batter 330
Sprouts 1096
Boiled, Brussels 1096
To boil young greens, or 1097
Stables and coach-house 2204
Heat of 2205
Stains of syrup, or preserved fruits,
to remove 2273
Stalls 2207
Stammering 2673
Cure for 2672
Stamp duties 2742
Starch, to make 2391-2
Starching 2390
Stew soup 185-7
Stilton cheese 1639
Stock, browning for 108
Stock, cow-heel 1412
Economical 106
For gravies, general 432
For jelly 1411
Medium 105
Rich strong 104
To clarify 109
White 107
Stomach, digestion 2457-9
Stone cream 1483
Store sauce, or Cherokee 528
Strawberry, jam 1594
Jelly 1484
Name of, among the Greeks 1381
Origin of the name 1365
Strawberries, and cream 1593
Dish of 1606
To preserve whole 1596
in wine 1595
Stuffing, for geese, ducks, pork, &c 504
Sausage meat for turkey 520
Soyer's recipe for 505
Sturgeon, the 332
Baked 332
Estimate of, by the ancients 333
Roast 333
Stye in the eye 2630
Substitute for milk and cream 1815
Sucking-pig, to carve 842
To roast 841
scald 840
Suffocation, apparent 2674
Carbonic acid gas, choke-damp of mines 2675
Sugar, and beetroot 1211
Cane 1334
French 1211
Icing for cakes 1736
Introduction of 1336
Potato 1136
Qualities of 1212
To boil to caramel 1514
Sulfuric acid 2649
Sultana grape 1326
Suppers 2139-41
Sweetbreads, baked 906
Fried 907
Stewed 908
Sweet dishes, general observations on 1385-8
Swine, flesh of, in hot climates 835
Swineherds of antiquity 836
Saxon 838
Swiss cream 1485
Syllabub, to make 1486
Whipped 1493
Syrup, for compotes, to make 1512
Lemon 1822
Of poppies 2663
To clarify 1513
Tails, strange 652
Tapioca pudding 1370
Soup 156
Wholesomeness of 156, 1370
Tart, apple creamed 1234
Apricot 1239
Barberry, 1245
Cherry 1261
Damson 1270
Gooseberry 1285
Plum 1331
Raspberry and currant 1267
Rhubarb 1339
Strawberry, or any other kind
of preserve, open 1365
Tartlets 1371
Polish 1320
Tarragon 503
Taxes 2714
Tea 1814
And coffee 1813
Miss Nightingale's opinion on the use of 1864
To make 1814
Teacakes 1786
To toast 1787
Teal, to carve 1067
To roast a 1048
Teething 2510-18
Tenancy, by sufferance 2701
General remarks on 2717
Tench, the 334
And eel-pie 349
Matelote of 334
Singular quality in the 335
Stewed with wine 335
Terms used in cookery, French 87
Thrush and its treatment 2523-37
Thyme 166
Tipsy-cake 1487
an easy way of making 1488
Toad-in-the-hole 672
of cold meat 743
Toast, and water, to make 1876
Sandwiches 1877
Tea-cakes, to 1787
To make dry 1725
hot buttered 1726
Toffee, Everton, to make 1597
Tomato, analysis of the 1159
Extended cultivation of the 1160
Immense importance in cookery 1153
Sauce 529
for keeping 530-2
Stewed 1159-60
Uses of the 629, 528, 2690
Tomatoes, baked, excellent 1158
Tongue, boiled 673
Pickle for 641
To cure 674-5
To pickle and dress to eat cold 676
Tongues of animals 675
Toothache, cure for the 2678-9
Tourte apple or cake 1236
Treacle, or molasses, description of 1224
Pudding, rolled 1372
Trifle, apple 1404
Gooseberry 1434
Indian 1436
To make a 1489
Tripe, to dress 677
Trout, the 336
Stewed 336
Truffle, the common 1161
Impossibility of regular culture of the 1162
Uses of the 1164
Truffles, à l' Italienne 1164
Au naturel 1161
Italian mode of dressing 1163
To dress with champagne 1162
Where found 1163
Turbot, the 333
À la crême 341
Ancient Romans' estimate of the 340
Au gratin 342
Boiled 337
Fillet of, baked 339
a l'Italienne 340
Garnish for, or other large fish 338
To carve a p. 175
To choose 338
Turkey, boiled 986
Croquettes of 987
Difficult to rear the 188
Disposition of the 988
English 990
Feathers of the 991
Fricasseed 988
Habits of the 988
Hashed 989
Hunting 989
Native of America 986
Or fowl, to bone without opening 992-4
Poults, roast 991
Tails, strange 652
Tapioca pudding 1370
Soup 156
Wholesomeness of 156, 1370
Tart, apple creamed 1234
Apricot 1239
Barberry, 1245
Cherry 1261
Damson 1270
Gooseberry 1285
Plum 1331
Raspberry and currant 1267
Rhubarb 1339
Strawberry, or any other kind
of preserve, open 1365
Tartlets 1371
Polish 1320
Tarragon 503
Taxes 2714
Tea 1814
And coffee 1813
Miss Nightingale's opinion on the use of 1864
To make 1814
Teacakes 1786
To toast 1787
Teal, to carve 1067
To roast a 1048
Teething 2510-18
Tenancy, by sufferance 2701
General remarks on 2717
Tench, the 334
And eel-pie 349
Matelote of 334
Singular quality in the 335
Stewed with wine 335
Terms used in cookery, French 87
Thrush and its treatment 2523-37
Thyme 166
Tipsy-cake 1487
an easy way of making 1488
Toad-in-the-hole 672
of cold meat 743
Toast, and water, to make 1876
Sandwiches 1877
Tea-cakes, to 1787
To make dry 1725
hot buttered 1726
Toffee, Everton, to make 1597
Tomato, analysis of the 1159
Extended cultivation of the 1160
Immense importance in cookery 1153
Sauce 529
for keeping 530-2
Stewed 1159-60
Uses of the 629, 528, 2690
Tomatoes, baked, excellent 1158
Tongue, boiled 673
Pickle for 641
To cure 674-5
To pickle and dress to eat cold 676
Tongues of animals 675
Toothache, cure for the 2678-9
Tourte apple or cake 1236
Treacle, or molasses, description of 1224
Pudding, rolled 1372
Trifle, apple 1404
Gooseberry 1434
Indian 1436
To make a 1489
Tripe, to dress 677
Trout, the 336
Stewed 336
Truffle, the common 1161
Impossibility of regular culture of the 1162
Uses of the 1164
Truffles, à l' Italienne 1164
Au naturel 1161
Italian mode of dressing 1163
To dress with champagne 1162
Where found 1163
Turbot, the 333
À la crême 341
Ancient Romans' estimate of the 340
Au gratin 342
Boiled 337
Fillet of, baked 339
a l'Italienne 340
Garnish for, or other large fish 338
To carve a p. 175
To choose 338
Turkey, boiled 986
Croquettes of 987
Difficult to rear the 188
Disposition of the 988
English 990
Feathers of the 991
Fricasseed 988
Habits of the 988
Hashed 989
Hunting 989
Native of America 986
Or fowl, to bone without opening 992-4
Poults, roast 991
Roast 990
Stuffing for 520
Soup 188
To carve a roast 1005
Wild 987
Turnip greens boiled 1169
Or the French navet 1168
Qualities of the 1167
Soup 157
Uses of the 1165
Whence introduced 157
Turnips, boiled 1165
German mode of cooking 1167
In white sauce 1168
Mashed 1166
Turnovers, fruit 1278
Turtle, mock 172-3
Soup, cost of 189
The green 189
Roast 990
Stuffing for 520
Soup 188
How to carve a roast 1005
Wild 987
Turnip greens boiled 1169
Or the French turnip 1168
Qualities of the 1167
Soup 157
Uses of the 1165
Where introduced 157
Turnips, boiled 1165
German cooking method 1167
In white sauce 1168
Mashed 1166
Fruit turnovers 1278
Mock turtle 172-3
Soup, cost of 189
The green 189
Valet, cleaning clothes 2239
Duties of the 2234-8, 2242
Polish for boots 2240-1
Vanilla cream 1490
Custard sauce 1361
Vanille or Vanilla 1490
Veal, a la bourgeoise 869
And ham pie 898
Baked 856
Breast of, roast 857
stewed and peas 858
to carve 912
Cake 859
Collops 879
Scotch 870
Veal, collops, Scotch, white 871
Colour of 861
Curried 865
Cutlets 866
à la Maintenon 868
broiled 867
Dinner, a very 897
Fillet of, au Béchamel 883
roast 872
stewed 873
to carve a 914
Frenchman's opinion of 911
Fricandeau of 874-5
Knuckle of, ragoût 884
stewed 885
to carve a 915
Loin of au Daube 888
au Béchamel 887
roast 886
to carve 916
Manner of cutting up 854
Minced 891-892
and macaroni 891
Neck of, braised 893
roast 894
Olive pie 895
Patties, fried 896
Pie 897
Potted 899
Quenelles 422
Ragoût of, cold 900
Rissoles 901
Rolls 902
Sausages 904
Season and choice of 908
Shoulder of 903
Stewed 905
tendons de veau 909-10
Tète de veau en tortue 911
Vegetable, a variety of the goard 158
Fried 1171
Marrow, a tropical plant 1171
boiled 1170
in white sauce 1173
Soup 158, 159-61
Vegetables, acetarious 1151
And herbs, various 89
Cut for soups 1172
General observations on 1069, 1079
Reduced to purée 1166
In season, January to December pp. 33-7
Venison 1049
Antiquity of, as food 444
Hashed 1050
Haunch of, roast 1049
Sauce for 518
Stewed 1051
The new 1051
To carve 1061
Ventilation, necessity of, in rooms lighted with gas 2693
of stables 2206
Vermicelli 162, 1377
Pudding 1377
Soup 162-3
Vicarage pudding 1378
Victoria sandwiches 1491
Vinegar, camp. 381
Cayenne 385
Celery 389
Chili 393
Cucumber 401
Gooseberry 1820
Horseradish 418
Mint 470
Raspberry 1828
Use of, by the Romans 451
Vol-au-vent, an entrée 1379
Of fresh strawberries with whipped cream 1381
Sweet, with fresh fruit 1380
Valet, cleaning clothes 2239
Duties of the 2234-8, 2242
Polish for boots 2240-1
Vanilla cream 1490
Custard sauce 1361
Vanille or Vanilla 1490
Veal, a la bourgeoise 869
And ham pie 898
Baked 856
Breast of, roast 857
stewed and peas 858
to carve 912
Cake 859
Collops 879
Scotch 870
Veal, collops, Scotch, white 871
Colour of 861
Curried 865
Cutlets 866
à la Maintenon 868
broiled 867
Dinner, a very 897
Fillet of, au Béchamel 883
roast 872
stewed 873
to carve a 914
Frenchman's opinion of 911
Fricandeau of 874-5
Knuckle of, ragoût 884
stewed 885
to carve a 915
Loin of au Daube 888
au Béchamel 887
roast 886
to carve 916
Manner of cutting up 854
Minced 891-892
and macaroni 891
Neck of, braised 893
roast 894
Olive pie 895
Patties, fried 896
Pie 897
Potted 899
Quenelles 422
Ragoût of, cold 900
Rissoles 901
Rolls 902
Sausages 904
Season and choice of 908
Shoulder of 903
Stewed 905
tendons de veau 909-10
Tète de veau en tortue 911
Vegetable, a variety of the gourd 158
Fried 1171
Marrow, a tropical plant 1171
boiled 1170
in white sauce 1173
Soup 158, 159-61
Vegetables, acetarious 1151
And herbs, various 89
Cut for soups 1172
General observations on 1069, 1079
Reduced to purée 1166
In season, January to December pp. 33-7
Venison 1049
Antiquity of, as food 444
Hashed 1050
Haunch of, roast 1049
Sauce for 518
Stewed 1051
The new 1051
To carve 1061
Ventilation, necessity of, in rooms lit with gas 2693
of stables 2206
Vermicelli 162, 1377
Pudding 1377
Soup 162-3
Vicarage pudding 1378
Victoria sandwiches 1491
Vinegar, camp. 381
Cayenne 385
Celery 389
Chili 393
Cucumber 401
Gooseberry 1820
Horseradish 418
Mint 470
Raspberry 1828
Use of, by the Romans 451
Vol-au-vent, an entrée 1379
Of fresh strawberries with whipped cream 1381
Sweet, with fresh fruit 1380
Wafers, Geneva 1431
Walnut, the 536
Ketchup 535-6
Walnuts, pickled 534
Properties of the 1599
To have fresh throughout the season 1607
Warts 2680
Washing 2377-8
Coloured muslins, &c. 2380
Flannels 2381
Greasy cloths 2382
Satin and silk ribbons 2384
Silks 2385
Water, rate 2715
Souchy 352-3
Supply of in Rome 1216
Warm 2691
What the ancients thought of 1214
Wax, to remove 2272
Welsh, nectar 1830
Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1652
West-Indian pudding 1382
Wheat, diseases of 1779
Egyptian or mummy 1783
Polish and Pomeranian 1722
Red varieties of 1719
Wheatear, the 996
Wheatears, to dress 996
Whipped, cream 1492
Syllabubs 1493
Whisky cordial 1840
Whitebait 348
To dress 348
Whiting, the 343
Au gratin, or baked 346
Aux fines herbes 347
Buckhorn 344
Boiled 343
Broiled 344
Fried 345
Pout and pollack 347
To carve a p. 176
choose 343
Whitlow, to cure a 2681
Widgeon, to carve a 1068
Roast 1052
Will, attestation of a 2757
Advice in making a 2756
Witnesses to a 2746, 2758
Wills 2732-38
Form of 2740-1
Wine, cowslip 1817
Elder 1818
Ginger 1819
Gooseberry, effervescing 1821
Lemon 1823
Malt 1824
Orange 1827
Rhubarb 1829
To mull 1838
Wire-basket 494
Witnesses 2739-51
Woodcock, description of the 1053
Scotch 1653
To carve a 1062
Woodcock, to roast a 1053
Woollen manufactures 737
Woollens 2284
Worms 2409
Wounds 2682
Incised, or cuts 2683, 2686
Lacerated or torn 2684, 2687
Punctured or penetrating 2685, 2688
Wafers, Geneva 1431
Walnut, the 536
Ketchup 535-6
Walnuts, pickled 534
Properties of the 1599
To have fresh throughout the season 1607
Warts 2680
Washing 2377-8
Colored muslins, etc. 2380
Flannels 2381
Greasy cloths 2382
Satin and silk ribbons 2384
Silks 2385
Water, rate 2715
Souchy 352-3
Supply of in Rome 1216
Warm 2691
What the ancients thought of 1214
Wax, to remove 2272
Welsh, nectar 1830
Rarebit, or toasted cheese 1652
West-Indian pudding 1382
Wheat, diseases of 1779
Egyptian or mummy 1783
Polish and Pomeranian 1722
Red varieties of 1719
Wheatear, the 996
Wheatears, to dress 996
Whipped, cream 1492
Syllabubs 1493
Whisky cordial 1840
Whitebait 348
To dress 348
Whiting, the 343
Au gratin, or baked 346
Aux fines herbes 347
Buckhorn 344
Boiled 343
Broiled 344
Fried 345
Pout and pollack 347
To carve a p. 176
choose 343
Whitlow, to cure a 2681
Widgeon, to carve a 1068
Roast 1052
Will, attestation of a 2757
Advice in making a 2756
Witnesses to a 2746, 2758
Wills 2732-38
Form of 2740-1
Wine, cowslip 1817
Elder 1818
Ginger 1819
Gooseberry, effervescing 1821
Lemon 1823
Malt 1824
Orange 1827
Rhubarb 1829
To mull 1838
Wire-basket 494
Witnesses 2739-51
Woodcock, description of the 1053
Scotch 1653
To carve a 1062
Woodcock, to roast a 1053
Woollen manufactures 737
Woollens 2284
Worms 2409
Wounds 2682
Incised, or cuts 2683, 2686
Lacerated or torn 2684, 2687
Punctured or penetrating 2685, 2688
Yeast 1383
Cake, nice 1788
Dumplings 1383
Kirkleatham 1717
To make, for bread 1716
Yorkshire pudding 1384
Yeast 1383
Cake, nice 1788
Dumplings 1383
Kirkleatham 1717
To make, for bread 1716
Yorkshire pudding 1384
ENGRAVINGS.
Almond and blossom 110
Puddings 1222
Almonds and raisins 1598
Anchovy 226
Apple, and blossom 1226
Compote of 1515
Jelly stuck with almonds 1395
Apples, dish of 1598
Arrowroot 387
Artichoke, cardoon 1080
Jerusalem 1084
Artichokes 1080
Asparagus 114
On toast 1087
Tongs 1087
Almond and blossom 110
Puddings 1222
Almonds and raisins 1598
Anchovy 226
Apple, and blossom 1226
Compote of 1515
Jelly with almonds 1395
Apples, dish of 1598
Arrowroot 387
Artichoke, cardoon 1080
Jerusalem 1084
Artichokes 1080
Asparagus 114
On toast 1087
Tongs 1087
Bacon, boiled 804
For larding, and needles 828
Bain Marie 430
Bantams, black 939
Feather-legged 958
Barbel 229
Barberry 1245
Barley 116
Basil 417
Basin, pudding 1200
Basket, wire 494
Bay, the 512
Bean, broad 1092
French 1151
Haricot 1120
Scarlet runner 1090
Beef, aitchbone of 677
Brisket of, to carve a 677
Collared 617
Ribs of, to carve a 677
Round of, to carve a 677
Beef, side of, showing the several joints 595
Sirloin of 659
" to carve a 677
Steak pie 604
Tongue 675
" to carve a 677
Beetroot 1094
Birds 917
Blackcock 1019
Roast 1019
" to carve a 1054
Blacking-brush box 2342
Blancmange 1409
Mould for 1408, 1442
Boar, Westphalian 787
Bread, &c. 1658
Loaf of, cottage 1718
Tin 1718
Brill, the 230
Brocoli 1095
Boiled 1095
Broom, carpet 2293
Long hair 2306
Brush, banister 2302
Cornice 2327
Crumb 2321
Dusting 2327
Furniture 2310
Plate 2317
Scrubbing 2306
Staircase 2302
Stove 2294
Buns 1731
Butler's tray and stand 2315
Butter, dish 1632
Dish of, rolled 1634
Bacon, boiled 804
For larding, and needles 828
Bain Marie 430
Bantams, black 939
Feather-legged 958
Barbel 229
Barberry 1245
Barley 116
Basil 417
Basin, pudding 1200
Basket, wire 494
Bay, the 512
Bean, broad 1092
French 1151
Haricot 1120
Scarlet runner 1090
Beef, aitchbone of 677
Brisket of, to carve a 677
Collared 617
Ribs of, to carve a 677
Round of, to carve a 677
Beef, side of, showing the several joints 595
Sirloin of 659
" to carve a 677
Steak pie 604
Tongue 675
" to carve a 677
Beetroot 1094
Birds 917
Blackcock 1019
Roast 1019
" to carve a 1054
Blacking-brush box 2342
Blancmange 1409
Mould for 1408, 1442
Boar, Westphalian 787
Bread, &c. 1658
Loaf of, cottage 1718
Tin 1718
Brill, the 230
Broccoli 1095
Boiled 1095
Broom, carpet 2293
Long hair 2306
Brush, banister 2302
Cornice 2327
Crumb 2321
Dusting 2327
Furniture 2310
Plate 2317
Scrubbing 2306
Staircase 2302
Stove 2294
Buns 1731
Butler's tray and stand 2315
Butter, dish 1632
Dish of, rolled 1634
Cabbage, seeding 118
Cake-moulds 1756,1761,1772
Calf, side of, showing the several joints 854
Calf's-head 877
Half a 877
To carve a 913
Calves 845
Sweetbreads of 906
Caper, the 383
Capercalzie, the 1026
Capsicum, the 362
Carp, the 242
Carpet brooms 2293
Carrots 1100
Cauliflower, the 1104
Boiled 1104
Celery 441
In glass 1107
Char, the 243
Charlotte aux pommes 1418
Cheese glass 1640
Hot-water dish for 1651
Stilton 1639
Cherry 1261
Chervil 1151
Chestnut 124
Chocolate, box of 1598
Milk 1807
Christmas pudding, &c. 1175
Chub, the 243
Cinnamon 524
Citron, the 1436
Claret-cup 1831
Clove, the 367
Coal, sections of 73
Cocoa-bean 1815
Nut and blossom 125
" palm 125
Cod, the 231
Cod's head and shoulders, to carve 174
Coffee 1811
Colander, ancient 68
Modern 68
Coriander 174
Cork, with wooden top 446
Cow and bull, Alderney 592
Galloway 593
Long-horn 591
Short-horn 590
Crab, the 245
Crayfish 193
Cream-mould 1430
Crumpets 1728
Cucumber, the 402,1111
Slice 1152
Sliced 1111
Currants 1266
Zante 1264
Custards, in glasses 1423
Cygnet 998
Cabbage, seeding 118
Cake molds 1756, 1761, 1772
Side of calf, showing the various joints 854
Calf's head 877
Half a 877
To carve a 913
Calves 845
Sweetbreads 906
Caper, the 383
Capercailzie, the 1026
Capsicum, the 362
Carp, the 242
Carpet brooms 2293
Carrots 1100
Cauliflower, the 1104
Boiled 1104
Celery 441
In a glass 1107
Char, the 243
Apple Charlotte 1418
Cheese glass 1640
Hot-water dish for 1651
Stilton 1639
Cherry 1261
Chervil 1151
Chestnut 124
Chocolate, box of 1598
Milk 1807
Christmas pudding, etc. 1175
Chub, the 243
Cinnamon 524
Citron, the 1436
Claret cup 1831
Clove, the 367
Coal, sections of 73
Cocoa bean 1815
Nut and blossom 125
"palm 125
Cod, the 231
Cod's head and shoulders, to carve 174
Coffee 1811
Colander, ancient 68
Modern 68
Coriander 174
Cork, with wooden top 446
Cow and bull, Alderney 592
Galloway 593
Longhorn 591
Shorthorn 590
Crab, the 245
Crayfish 193
Cream mold 1430
Crumpets 1728
Cucumber, the 402, 1111
Slice 1152
Sliced 1111
Currants 1266
Zante 1264
Custards, in glasses 1423
Cygnet 998
Dace, the 243
Damson, the 1270
Deer, the 444
Eland, bull and cow 1051
Fallow, buck and doe 1050
Roebuck 1051
The stag and hind 1051
Dessert 1495
Dishes 1598
Dish, baking 551
Pie 1190
Sussex pudding 695
Dripping-pan, ancient 68
Modern 68
And basting-ladle 580
Duck, Aylesbury 935
Bowbill 936
Buenos Ayres 933
Call 937
Roast 934
" to carve a 999
Rouen 934
Wild 1022
" roast 1022
" " to carve a 1055
Dace, 243
Damson, 1270
Deer, 444
Eland, bull and cow 1051
Fallow, buck and doe 1050
Roebuck 1051
The stag and hind 1051
Dessert 1495
Dishes 1598
Dish, baking 551
Pie 1190
Sussex pudding 695
Dripping-pan, ancient 68
Modern 68
And basting-ladle 580
Duck, Aylesbury 935
Bowbill 936
Buenos Ayres 933
Call 937
Roast 934
" to carve a 999
Rouen 934
Wild 1022
" roast 1022
" " to carve a 1055
Eel, the 249
Egg poacher, tin 1663
Stand for breakfast-table 1656
Eggs, basket of 1667
Comparative sizes of 1665
Fried on bacon 1659
Poached, on toast 1663
Elder-berries 1818
Endive 169
Ewe, heath 690
Leicester 682
Romney-Marsh 691
South-Down 687
Eel, the 249
Egg poacher, tin 1663
Stand for breakfast table 1656
Eggs, basket of 1667
Comparative sizes of 1665
Fried with bacon 1659
Poached, on toast 1663
Elderberries 1818
Endive 169
Ewe, heath 690
Leicester 682
Romney Marsh 691
South Down 687
Fennel 412
Figs, compote of 1541
Fish 199
Flounders 259
Flowers and fruit 61, 103, 584, 925
Fowl, black bantams 939
Black Spanish 962
Boiled 938
" to carve a 1000
Cochin-China 942
Dorking 940
Feather-legged bantams 958
Game 938
Guinea 970
Pencilled Hamburgs 965
Roast 952
" to carve a 1001
Sebright bantams 961
Spangled Polands 941
Speckled Hamburgs 959
Sultans 963
Fritter mould, star 1473
Scroll 1474
Fruit, dish of, mixed 1598
Dish of, mixed summer 1598
Fennel 412
Figs, compote of 1541
Fish 199
Flounders 259
Flowers and fruit 61, 103, 584, 925
Fowl, black bantams 939
Black Spanish 962
Boiled 938
" to carve a 1000
Cochin-China 942
Dorking 940
Feather-legged bantams 958
Game 938
Guinea 970
Pencilled Hamburgs 965
Roast 952
" to carve a 1001
Sebright bantams 961
Spangled Polands 941
Speckled Hamburgs 959
Sultans 963
Fritter mould, star 1473
Scroll 1474
Fruit, dish of, mixed 1598
Dish of, mixed summer 1598
Game 1006
Garlic 392
Gherkins 428
Ginger 407
Gingerbread 1760
Glass measure, graduated 77
Goose, Emden 968
Roast 1002
" to carve a 1002
Toulouse 969
Gooseberry 429
Grape, raisin 1324
Sultana 1326
Gridiron, ancient 68
Modern 68
Revolving 569
Grouse, red 1025
Roast 1025
" to carve a 1058
Gudgeon, the 261
Gurnet, the 262
Game 1006
Garlic 392
Gherkins 428
Ginger 407
Gingerbread 1760
Glass measure, graduated 77
Goose, Emden 968
Roast 1002
" to carve a 1002
Toulouse 969
Gooseberry 429
Grape, raisin 1324
Sultana 1326
Gridiron, ancient 68
Modern 68
Revolving 569
Grouse, red 1025
Roast 1025
" to carve a 1058
Gudgeon, the 261
Gurnet, the 262
Haddock, the 263
Ham, boiled 811
To carve 843
Hare, the common 170, 1027
Roast 1027
" to carve a 1056
Herring, the 268
Horseradish 447
Hotplate 568
Housemaid's box 2294
Haddock, the 263
Ham, boiled 811
To carve 843
Hare, the common 170, 1027
Roast 1027
" to carve a 1056
Herring, the 268
Horseradish 447
Hotplate 568
Housemaid's box 2294
Ice-pail and spattle 1290
Ices, dish of 1556
Ice-pail and spattle 1290
Ices, dish of 1556
Jack-bottle 580
Jam-pot 1532
Jar-potting 642
Jellies, &c 1385
Jelly, bag 1411
Mould 1411, 1416
" oval 1449
Moulded with cherries 1440
Of two colours 1441
Open with whipped cream 1453
John Dory 248
Jack-bottle 580
Jam-pot 1532
Jar-potting 642
Jellies, etc. 1385
Jelly bag 1411
Mold 1411, 1416
" oval 1449
Molded with cherries 1440
Of two colors 1441
Open with whipped cream 1453
John Dory 248
Kettle, glaze 430
Fish 225
Gravy 432
Kidneys 724
Knife-cleaning machine 5123
Kettle, glaze 430
Fish 225
Gravy 432
Kidneys 724
Knife-cleaning machine 5123
Lamb, fore-quarter of 750
" " to carve a 764
Leg of 752
Loin of 753
Ribs of 754
Saddle of 754
Side of 701
Lamprey, the 256
Landrail, the 1033
Leaf in puff paste 1245
Pastry 1492
Leeks 134
Lemon, the 405, 1296
Cream mould 1443
Dumplings 1294
Lentil, the 126
Lettuce, the 136
Lobster, the 270
Lamb, fore-quarter of 750
" " to carve a 764
Leg of 752
Loin of 753
Ribs of 754
Saddle of 754
Side of 701
Lamprey, the 256
Landrail, the 1033
Leaf in puff pastry 1245
Pastry 1492
Leeks 134
Lemon, the 405, 1296
Cream mold 1443
Dumplings 1294
Lentil, the 126
Lettuce, the 136
Lobster, the 270
Macaroni 135
Macaroons 1744
Mace 371
Mackerel, the 281
Maize, ear of 1721
Plant 1721
Marjoram 415
Marrow-bones 635
Milking cow 1608
Millet, Italian 1718
Panicled 1733
Mince pies 1311
Mint 469
Mould, baked pudding or cake 1329
Blancmange 1408, 1442
Boiled pudding 1196-8
Cake 1756, 1764, 1772
Cream 1430
For Christmas plum-pudding 1328
For an open tart 1365
Iced pudding 1289
Jelly 1411, 1416
" oval 1449
Lemon cream 1443
Open 1454, 1463
Raised pie, closed and open 1190
Raspberry cream 1475
Vanilla cream 1490
Muffins 1727
Mulberry, the 1560
Mullet, grey 284
Striped red 285
Mushroom, the 473
Mushrooms 1125
Broiled 1125
Mustard 450
Mutton, cutlets 732
Haunch of 726
" to carve a 759
Leg of 727
" to carve a 760
Loin of 728
" to carve a 761
Neck of 737
Saddle of 738
" to carve a 762
Side of, showing the several joints 695
Shoulder of 739
" to carve a 763
Macaroni 135
Macaroons 1744
Mace 371
Mackerel, the 281
Maize, ear of 1721
Plant 1721
Marjoram 415
Marrow-bones 635
Milking cow 1608
Millet, Italian 1718
Panicled 1733
Mince pies 1311
Mint 469
Mould, baked pudding or cake 1329
Blancmange 1408, 1442
Boiled pudding 1196-8
Cake 1756, 1764, 1772
Cream 1430
For Christmas plum-pudding 1328
For an open tart 1365
Iced pudding 1289
Jelly 1411, 1416
" oval 1449
Lemon cream 1443
Open 1454, 1463
Raised pie, closed and open 1190
Raspberry cream 1475
Vanilla cream 1490
Muffins 1727
Mulberry, the 1560
Mullet, grey 284
Striped red 285
Mushroom, the 473
Mushrooms 1125
Broiled 1125
Mustard 450
Mutton, cutlets 732
Haunch of 726
" to carve a 759
Leg of 727
" to carve a 760
Loin of 728
" to carve a 761
Neck of 737
Saddle of 738
" to carve a 762
Side of, showing the several joints 695
Shoulder of 739
" to carve a 763
Nasturtiums 482
Nutmeg, the 378
Nuts, dish of 1598
Nasturtiums 482
Nutmeg, the 378
Nuts, dish of 1598
Olive, the 506
Omelet 1456
Pan 1458
Onion, the 139
Orange, the 1314
Oranges, compote of 1565
Oyster, edible 286
Olive, the 506
Omelet 1456
Pan 1458
Onion, the 139
Orange, the 1314
Oranges, compote of 1565
Oyster, edible 286
Pail, house 2327
Pancakes 1467
Parsley 493
Parsnip, the 1132
Partridge, the 1039
Roast 1039
" to carve a 1057
Baste, board and rolling-pin 1186
Cutter and corner-cutter 1189
Ornamental cutter 1189
Pincers and jagger 1186
Patty-pans, plain and fluted 1190
Pea, the 143
Peach, the 1469
Pear, bon Chrétien 1576
Pears, stewed 1576
Peas, green 1135
Pepper, black 369
Long 399
Perch, the 292
Pestle and Mortar 421
Pheasant, the 1041
Roast 1041
" to carve a 1059
Pickle, Indian 551
Pie, raised 1340
Pig, Guinea 997
Roast, sucking 841
" " to carve a 842
Pig's face 823
Pigs 765
Pigeon, barb 976
Blue rock 976
Carrier 974
Fantail 976
Jacobin 976
Nun 975
Owl 976
Pouter 973
Roast 974
Runt 975
To carve a 1003
Trumpeter 975
Tumbler 975
Turbit 976
Wood 975
Pike, the 295
Pimento 438
Plaice, the 298
Plover, the 1044
Plum, the 1330
Pork, fore loin of 829
Griskin of 827
Hind loin of 829
Leg of, to carve a 844
" roast 800
Side of, showing joints 795
Spare rib of 827
Pot, boiling 567
Potato, the 147
Pasty pan 1333
Rissoles 1147
Sweet 1146
Potatoes, baked, served in napkin 1136
Pound cake 1770
Prawn, the 198
Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045
Pudding, boiled fruit 1284
Cabinet 1286
Punch-bowl and ladle 1839
Pail, house 2327
Pancakes 1467
Parsley 493
Parsnip, the 1132
Partridge, the 1039
Roast 1039
" to carve a 1057
Baste, board and rolling-pin 1186
Cutter and corner-cutter 1189
Ornamental cutter 1189
Pincers and jagger 1186
Patty-pans, plain and fluted 1190
Pea, the 143
Peach, the 1469
Pear, bon Chrétien 1576
Pears, stewed 1576
Peas, green 1135
Pepper, black 369
Long 399
Perch, the 292
Pestle and Mortar 421
Pheasant, the 1041
Roast 1041
" to carve a 1059
Pickle, Indian 551
Pie, raised 1340
Pig, Guinea 997
Roast, sucking 841
" " to carve a 842
Pig's face 823
Pigs 765
Pigeon, barb 976
Blue rock 976
Carrier 974
Fantail 976
Jacobin 976
Nun 975
Owl 976
Pouter 973
Roast 974
Runt 975
To carve a 1003
Trumpeter 975
Tumbler 975
Turbit 976
Wood 975
Pike, the 295
Pimento 438
Plaice, the 298
Plover, the 1044
Plum, the 1330
Pork, fore loin of 829
Griskin of 827
Hind loin of 829
Leg of, to carve a 844
" roast 800
Side of, showing joints 795
Spare rib of 827
Pot, boiling 567
Potato, the 147
Pasty pan 1333
Rissoles 1147
Sweet 1146
Potatoes, baked, served in napkin 1136
Pound cake 1770
Prawn, the 198
Ptarmigan, or white grouse 1045
Pudding, boiled fruit 1284
Cabinet 1286
Punch-bowl and ladle 1839
Quadrupeds 585
Quail, the 1046
Quern, or grinding-mill 117
Quince, the 1233
Quadrupeds 585
Quail, the 1046
Quern, or grinding-mill 117
Quince, the 1233
Rabbit, Angora 983
Boiled 977
" to carve a 1004
Hare, the 985
Himalaya 985
Lop-eared 984
Roast 983
" to carve a 1004
Wild 978
Radish, long 1152
Turnip 1152
Raisin, grape 1324
Ram, heath 689
Leicester 688
Romney-Marsh and ewe 691
South-down and ewe 687
Range, modern 65
Raspberry, the 1267
Cream mould 1475
Ratafias 1745
Rhubarb 1339
Rice, casserole of 1350
Ears of 150
Roach, the 243
Rolls 1723
Rusks 1734
Rabbit, Angora 983
Boiled 977
" to carve a 1004
Hare, the 985
Himalaya 985
Lop-eared 984
Roast 983
" to carve a 1004
Wild 978
Radish, long 1152
Turnip 1152
Raisin, grape 1324
Ram, heath 689
Leicester 688
Romney-Marsh and ewe 691
South-down and ewe 687
Range, modern 65
Raspberry, the 1267
Cream mould 1475
Ratafias 1745
Rhubarb 1339
Rice, casserole of 1350
Ears of 150
Roach, the 243
Rolls 1723
Rusks 1734
Sage 427
Sago palm 152
Salad, in bowl 1152
Salmon, the 304
To carve a p. 175
Salt-mine at Northwich 403
Saucepan, ancient 68
Modern 68
Sauce tureen, boat, &c. 354
Sausages, fried 838
Sauté-pan 571
Ancient 68
Modern 68
Scales, ancient and modern 70
Screen, meat 582
Sea-bream, the 310
Sea-kale 1150
Boiled 1150
Shad, the 311
Shalot, the 410
Sheep 678
Heath ram 689
" ewe 690
Romney-Marsh ram and ewe 691
South-Down ram and ewe 687
Shortbread 1780
Shrimp, the 313
Skate, thornback 315
Snipe, the 1047
Roast 1047
" to carve a 1060
Sole, the 320
Sorrel 431
Soufflé pan 1481
Sow, and pigs 765
Berkshire 781
Chinese 785
Cumberland 784
Essex 782
Yorkshire 783
Spinach 155
Garnished with croûtons 1155
Sponge cake 1783
Sprat, the 331
Sprouts, Brussels 1098
Stewpan 567
Stock-pot, ancient 66
Bronze 66
Modern 66
Stove, gas 575
Family kitchener 65
Leamington 65, 540
Pompeiian 65
Strawberries, dish of 1598
Sturgeon, the 332
Sugar-cane, the 1335
Sultana grape, the 1326
Swans 54
Sage 427
Sago palm 152
Salad, in bowl 1152
Salmon, the 304
To carve a p. 175
Salt-mine at Northwich 403
Saucepan, ancient 68
Modern 68
Sauce tureen, boat, etc. 354
Sausages, fried 838
Sauté pan 571
Ancient 68
Modern 68
Scales, ancient and modern 70
Screen, meat 582
Sea bream, the 310
Sea kale 1150
Boiled 1150
Shad, the 311
Shallot, the 410
Sheep 678
Heath ram 689
" ewe 690
Romney-Marsh ram and ewe 691
South-Down ram and ewe 687
Shortbread 1780
Shrimp, the 313
Skate, thornback 315
Snipe, the 1047
Roast 1047
" to carve a 1060
Sole, the 320
Sorrel 431
Soufflé pan 1481
Sow, and pigs 765
Berkshire 781
Chinese 785
Cumberland 784
Essex 782
Yorkshire 783
Spinach 155
Garnished with croutons 1155
Sponge cake 1783
Sprat, the 331
Brussels sprouts 1098
Stew pan 567
Stock pot, ancient 66
Bronze 66
Modern 66
Stove, gas 575
Family kitchener 65
Leamington 65, 540
Pompeiian 65
Strawberries, dish of 1598
Sturgeon, the 332
Sugar cane, the 1335
Sultana grape, the 1326
Swans 54
Tarragon 503
Tart, open 1365
Open mould for a 1365
Plum 1331
Tartlets, dish of 1371
Tazza and carrot leaves 121
Tea 1814
Teacakes 1787
Tench, the 334
Thyme, lemon 458
Tipsy cake 1487
Tomato, the 529
Tomatoes, stewed 1159
Trifle 1489
Trout, the 336
Truffles 1161
Turbot, the 338
Kettle 338
To carve a 176
Tureen, soup 88
Turkey, boiled 986
Roast 990
" to carve a 1005
Turnip 157
Turnips 1165
Turret on old Abbey kitchen 62
Turtle, the 189
Tarragon 503
Tart, open 1365
Open mold for a 1365
Plum 1331
Tartlets, dish of 1371
Tazza and carrot leaves 121
Tea 1814
Teacakes 1787
Tench, the 334
Thyme, lemon 458
Tipsy cake 1487
Tomato, the 529
Tomatoes, stewed 1159
Trifle 1489
Trout, the 336
Truffles 1161
Turbot, the 338
Kettle 338
To carve a 176
Tureen, soup 88
Turkey, boiled 986
Roast 990
" to carve a 1005
Turnip 157
Turnips 1165
Turret on old Abbey kitchen 62
Turtle, the 189
Urns, Loysell's hydrostatic 1810
Utensils for cooking, ancient and modern 66-8
Urns, Loysell's hydrostatic 1810
Cooking tools, ancient and modern 66-8
Vanilla cream mould 1490
Veal, breast of 857
" to carve a 912
Cutlets 866
Fillet of 872
" to carve a 914
Knuckle of 885
" to carve a 915
Loin of 885
" to carve a 916
Vegetable, cutter 1173
Strips of 131
Vegetable marrow 158
In white sauce 1173
On toast 1170
Vegetables 1069
Cellular development of 1075
Siliceous cuticles of 1075
Venison, haunch of 1061
" roast 1049
" to carve a 1061
Vermicelli 162
Vessels for beverages 1789
Vol-au-vent 1379
Small 1379
Vanilla cream mold 1490
Veal, breast of 857
" to carve a 912
Cutlets 866
Fillet of 872
" to carve a 914
Knuckle of 885
" to carve a 915
Loin of 885
" to carve a 916
Vegetable, cutter 1173
Strips of 131
Vegetable marrow 158
In white sauce 1173
On toast 1170
Vegetables 1069
Cellular development of 1075
Siliceous cuticles of 1075
Venison, haunch of 1061
" roast 1049
" to carve a 1061
Vermicelli 162
Vessels for drinks 1789
Vol-au-vent 1379
Small 1379
Walnut, the 536
Wheat 1779
Egyptian, or mummy 1783
Polish 1722
Red winter 1719
Whitebait 348
Whiting, the 343
Window and flowers 75
Wirebasket 494
Woodcock, the 1053
Roast 1053
Scotch 1653
To carve a 1062
Walnut, the 536
Wheat 1779
Egyptian, or mummy 1783
Polish 1722
Red winter 1719
Whitebait 348
Whiting, the 343
Window and flowers 75
Wirebasket 494
Woodcock, the 1053
Roast 1053
Scotch 1653
To carve a 1062
Yorkshire pudding 1384
Yorkshire pudding 1384
COLOURED PLATES.
Apples in custard
Apples with custard
Beef, round of, boiled
Roast sirloin of
Beef, round cut, boiled
Roast sirloin of
Calf's head, boiled
Charlotte aux pommes
Cod's head and shoulders
Crab, dressed
Calf's head, boiled
Apple Charlotte
Cod's head and shoulders
Dressed crab
Duck, wild
Ducks, couple of, roast
Wild duck
Couple of ducks, roast
Eggs, poached, and spinach
Poached eggs with spinach
Fowl, boiled with cauliflower
Roast, with watercresses
Fruits, centre dish of various
Fowl, boiled with cauliflower
Roast, with watercress
Fruits, the main dish with variety
Goose, roast
Grouse
Roast goose
Grouse
Ham, cold glazed
Hare, roast
Glazed cold ham
Roast hare
Jelly, two colours of
Two-color jelly
Lobsters, dressed
Lobsters, prepared
Mackerel, boiled
Mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes
Haunch of roast
Saddle of roast
Mutton, shoulder of roast
Mackerel, boiled
Mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes
Haunch of roast
Saddle of roast
Mutton, shoulder of roast
Oysters, scalloped
Scalloped oysters
Partridge
Pheasant
Pie, raised
Pig, sucking, roast or baked
Pigeon
Plum-pudding, Christmas, in mould
Partridge
Pheasant
Raised pie
Sucking pig, roast or baked
Pigeon
Christmas plum pudding, in a mold
Rabbit, boiled
Or fowl, curried
Raspberry cream
Rissoles
Boiled rabbit
Curried chicken
Raspberry cream
Rissoles
Salmon, boiled
Snipe
Soles, dish of filleted
Spinach and poached eggs
Strawberries, au naturel, in
ornamental flower-pot
Salmon, boiled
Snipe
Sole, filleted dish
Spinach and poached eggs
Strawberries, fresh, in
decorative flower pot
Tongue, cold boiled
Trifle
Turbot, or brill, boiled
Turkey, roast
Tongue, cold boiled
Trifle
Turbot or brill, boiled
Roast turkey
Veal, fricandeau of
Vol-au-vent
Veal fricandeau
Vol-au-vent
Whiting, dish of, fried
Woodcock
Fried whiting dish
Woodcock
THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.
CHAPTER I.
THE MISTRESS.
"Strength, and honour are her clothing; and she shall rejoice in time to come. She openeth her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household; and eateth not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband also, and he praiseth her."—Proverbs, xxxi. 25-28.
"She is dressed in strength and dignity; she will celebrate what lies ahead. She speaks with wisdom, and her words are filled with kindness. She keeps a close eye on her household and does not eat the bread of laziness. Her children rise up and call her blessed; her husband also praises her."—Proverbs, xxxi. 25-28.
I. AS WITH THE COMMANDER OF AN ARMY, or the leader of any enterprise, so is it with the mistress of a house. Her spirit will be seen through the whole establishment; and just in proportion as she performs her duties intelligently and thoroughly, so will her domestics follow in her path. Of all those acquirements, which more particularly belong to the feminine character, there are none which take a higher rank, in our estimation, than such as enter into a knowledge of household duties; for on these are perpetually dependent the happiness, comfort, and well-being of a family. In this opinion we are borne out by the author of "The Vicar of Wakefield," who says: "The modest virgin, the prudent wife, and the careful matron, are much more serviceable in life than petticoated philosophers, blustering heroines, or virago queens. She who makes her husband and her children happy, who reclaims the one from vice and trains up the other to virtue, is a much greater character than ladies described in romances, whose whole occupation is to murder mankind with shafts from their quiver, or their eyes."
I. JUST LIKE THE COMMANDER OF AN ARMY OR THE LEADER OF ANY PROJECT, THE MISTRESS OF A HOUSEHOLD HOLDS A SIMILAR POSITION. HER ATTITUDE WILL BE REFLECTED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE HOME, AND THE MORE SHE CARRIES OUT HER RESPONSIBILITIES WITH INTELLIGENCE AND DEDICATION, THE MORE HER HOUSEHOLD STAFF WILL FOLLOW HER EXAMPLE. OF ALL THE QUALITIES THAT ARE TYPICALLY ASSOCIATED WITH WOMEN, NONE ARE CONSIDERED MORE IMPORTANT IN OUR VIEW THAN THOSE RELATED TO HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT; BECAUSE THE HAPPINESS, COMFORT, AND WELL-BEING OF A FAMILY DEPEND ON THESE. WE ARE SUPPORTED IN THIS VIEW BY THE AUTHOR OF "THE VICAR OF WAKEFIELD," WHO STATES: "THE MODEST VIRGIN, THE PRUDENT WIFE, AND THE CARING MATRONS ARE FAR MORE USEFUL IN LIFE THAN PETTICOATED PHILOSOPHERS, NOISY HEROINES, OR WARRIOR QUEENS. A WOMAN WHO MAKES HER HUSBAND AND CHILDREN HAPPY, WHO PULLS ONE BACK FROM VICE AND RAISES THE OTHER IN VIRTUE, IS A MUCH GREATER FIGURE THAN THOSE LADIES FOUND IN ROMANCES, WHOSE ONLY FOCUS IS ON KILLING WITH THE ARROWS OF THEIR QUIVERS OR THEIR GAZES."
2. PURSUING THIS PICTURE, we may add, that to be a good housewife does not necessarily imply an abandonment of proper pleasures or amusing recreation; and we think it the more necessary to express this, as the performance of the duties of a mistress may, to some minds, perhaps seem to be incompatible with the enjoyment of life. Let us, however, now proceed to describe some of those home qualities and virtues which are necessary to the proper management of a Household, and then point out the plan which may be the most profitably pursued for the daily regulation of its affairs.
2. PURSUING THIS PICTURE, we should add that being a good housewife doesn't mean giving up enjoyable activities or fun hobbies; we feel it's important to mention this because some might think that managing a household conflicts with having a fulfilling life. However, let's go ahead and describe some of the key qualities and virtues needed for effectively running a household, and then outline the best approach to manage its daily affairs profitably.
3. EARLY RISING IS ONE OF THE MOST ESSENTIAL QUALITIES which enter into good Household Management, as it is not only the parent of health, but of innumerable other advantages. Indeed, when a mistress is an early riser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and well-managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the domestics, who, as we have before observed, invariably partake somewhat of their mistress's character, will surely become sluggards. To self-indulgence all are more or less disposed, and it is not to be expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of houses. The great Lord Chatham thus gave his advice in reference to this subject:—"I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and the walls of your chamber, 'If you do not rise early, you can make progress in nothing.'"
3. WAKING UP EARLY IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT QUALITIES for good Household Management, as it not only promotes health but also brings countless other benefits. In fact, when a woman of the house rises early, it's almost guaranteed that her home will be organized and well-run. On the flip side, if she stays in bed until late, her staff—who, as we've mentioned before, often reflect their mistress's character—will likely become lazy. Everyone has a tendency toward self-indulgence, and it's unrealistic to think that servants are any less prone to this than the heads of households. The great Lord Chatham advised on this matter: “I would have had inscribed on the curtains of your bed and the walls of your room, 'If you do not wake up early, you cannot make progress in anything.'”
4. CLEANLINESS IS ALSO INDISPENSABLE TO HEALTH, and must be studied both in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold or tepid baths should be employed every morning, unless, on account of illness or other circumstances, they should be deemed objectionable. The bathing of children will be treated of under the head of "MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN."
4. CLEANLINESS IS ALSO ESSENTIAL FOR HEALTH and must be considered in relation to both personal hygiene and the home, including everything it contains. Cold or lukewarm baths should be taken every morning, unless illness or other conditions make them inappropriate. The bathing of children will be discussed under the section "MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN."
5. FRUGALITY AND ECONOMY ARE HOME VIRTUES, without which no household can prosper. Dr. Johnson says: "Frugality may be termed the daughter of Prudence, the sister of Temperance, and the parent of Liberty. He that is extravagant will quickly become poor, and poverty will enforce dependence and invite corruption." The necessity of practising economy should be evident to every one, whether in the possession of an income no more than sufficient for a family's requirements, or of a large fortune, which puts financial adversity out of the question. We must always remember that it is a great merit in housekeeping to manage a little well. "He is a good waggoner," says Bishop Hall, "that can turn in a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of my little, than how to make it more." In this there is true wisdom, and it may be added, that those who can manage a little well, are most likely to succeed in their management of larger matters. Economy and frugality must never, however, be allowed to degenerate into parsimony and meanness.
5. FRUGALITY AND ECONOMY ARE IMPORTANT VALUES AT HOME, without which no household can thrive. Dr. Johnson says: "Frugality can be described as the child of Prudence, the sibling of Temperance, and the parent of Liberty. Someone who is extravagant will quickly find themselves poor, and poverty will lead to dependence and invite corruption." The need to practice economy should be clear to everyone, whether they have just enough income to meet a family's needs or a large fortune that makes financial struggles unlikely. We must always keep in mind that it's a great skill in managing a household to handle a small amount well. "A good wagon driver," says Bishop Hall, "is someone who can turn in a small space. Living well in abundance is a reflection of wealth, not personal merit. I will focus more on how to make the most of my little instead of how to increase it." In this lies true wisdom, and it can also be said that those who can manage a little well are most likely to succeed in handling larger matters. However, frugality and economy should never be allowed to slip into stinginess and meanness.
6. THE CHOICE OF ACQUAINTANCES is very important to the happiness of a mistress and her family. A gossiping acquaintance, who indulges in the scandal and ridicule of her neighbours, should be avoided as a pestilence. It is likewise all-necessary to beware, as Thomson sings,
6. CHOOSING FRIENDS is crucial for the happiness of a woman and her family. A friend who gossips and enjoys spreading rumors and mocking others should be avoided like a plague. It's also essential to be cautious, as Thomson sings,
"The whisper'd tale,
That, like the fabling Nile, no fountain knows;—
Fair-laced Deceit, whose wily, conscious aye
Ne'er looks direct; the tongue that licks the dust
But, when it safely dares, as prompt to sting."
"The whispered story,
That, like the lying Nile, no source understands;—
Beautifully woven Deceit, whose clever, aware gaze
Never looks straight ahead; the tongue that licks the ground
But, when it feels secure, is quick to bite."
If the duties of a family do not sufficiently occupy the time of a mistress, society should be formed of such a kind as will tend to the mutual interchange of general and interesting information.
If a housewife's responsibilities don't take up enough of her time, society should be structured in a way that encourages the exchange of interesting and relevant information.
7. FRIENDSHIPS SHOULD NOT BE HASTILY FORMED, nor the heart given, at once, to every new-comer. There are ladies who uniformly smile at, and approve everything and everybody, and who possess neither the courage to reprehend vice, nor the generous warmth to defend virtue. The friendship of such persons is without attachment, and their love without affection or even preference. They imagine that every one who has any penetration is ill-natured, and look coldly on a discriminating judgment. It should be remembered, however, that this discernment does not always proceed from an uncharitable temper, but that those who possess a long experience and thorough knowledge of the world, scrutinize the conduct and dispositions of people before they trust themselves to the first fair appearances. Addison, who was not deficient in a knowledge of mankind, observes that "a friendship, which makes the least noise, is very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one." And Joanna Baillie tells us that
7. FRIENDSHIPS SHOULD NOT BE RUSHED into, nor should the heart be given away instantly to every newcomer. Some people always smile and approve of everything and everyone, lacking both the courage to call out wrongdoing and the genuine warmth to stand up for what’s right. The friendship of such individuals is shallow, and their love is devoid of real affection or even preference. They believe that anyone with insight is simply negative and view critical thinking with disdain. However, it’s important to remember that this discernment often doesn’t stem from a mean-spirited attitude, but rather from those who have extensive experience and a deep understanding of the world being careful about who they trust before they fall for just the first attractive facade. Addison, who had a good grasp of human nature, notes that "a friendship, which makes the least noise, is very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one." And Joanna Baillie tells us that
"Friendship is no plant of hasty growth,
Though planted in esteem's deep-fixed soil,
The gradual culture of kind intercourse
Must bring it to perfection."
"Friendship doesn't grow quickly,
Even when it's planted in the rich soil of respect,
It takes time and nurturing through kind interactions
To fully develop."
8. HOSPITALITY IS A MOST EXCELLENT VIRTUE; but care must be taken that the love of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailing passion; for then the habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation. Reality and truthfulness in this, as in all other duties of life, are the points to be studied; for, as Washington Irving well says, "There is an emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality, which cannot be described, but is immediately felt, and puts the stranger at once at his ease." With respect to the continuance of friendships, however, it may be found necessary, in some cases, for a mistress to relinquish, on assuming the responsibility of a household, many of those commenced in the earlier part of her life. This will be the more requisite, if the number still retained be quite equal to her means and opportunities.
8. HOSPITALITY IS A GREAT VIRTUE; but it’s important to ensure that the desire for company, just for its own sake, doesn’t turn into an overwhelming passion; because then it’s not hospitality anymore, but excess. Authenticity and honesty in this, like in all other life responsibilities, are what really matter; as Washington Irving famously said, "There is an emanation from the heart in genuine hospitality, which cannot be described, but is immediately felt, and puts the stranger at once at his ease." Regarding the lasting nature of friendships, it may become necessary, in some situations, for a woman to let go of some friendships she started earlier in her life when she takes on the duties of running a household. This will be especially important if the friendships she keeps are equal to her capacity and opportunities.
9. IN CONVERSATION, TRIFLING OCCURRENCES, such as small disappointments, petty annoyances, and other every-day incidents, should never be mentioned to your friends. The extreme injudiciousness of repeating these will be at once apparent, when we reflect on the unsatisfactory discussions which they too frequently occasion, and on the load of advice which they are the cause of being tendered, and which is, too often, of a kind neither to be useful nor agreeable. Greater events, whether of joy or sorrow, should be communicated to friends; and, on such occasions, their sympathy gratifies and comforts. If the mistress be a wife, never let an account of her husband's failings pass her lips; and in cultivating the power of conversation, she should keep the versified advice of Cowper continually in her memory, that it
9. IN CONVERSATION, TRIVIAL OCCURRENCES, like small disappointments, minor annoyances, and everyday incidents, should never be mentioned to your friends. The foolishness of bringing these up becomes clear when we think about the unsatisfying discussions they often lead to, and the burden of advice that follows, which is usually neither helpful nor pleasant. Bigger events, whether joyful or sad, should be shared with friends; during those times, their sympathy brings comfort. If the woman is a wife, she should never speak of her husband’s shortcomings; and in developing her conversational skills, she should always remember Cowper’s poetic advice that it
"Should flow like water after summer showers,
Not as if raised by mere mechanic powers."
"Should flow like water after summer rain,
Not like it's created by just mechanical forces."
In reference to its style, Dr. Johnson, who was himself greatly distinguished for his colloquial abilities, says that "no style is more extensively acceptable than the narrative, because this does not carry an air of superiority over the rest of the company; and, therefore, is most likely to please them. For this purpose we should store our memory with short anecdotes and entertaining pieces of history. Almost every one listens with eagerness to extemporary history. Vanity often co-operates with curiosity; for he that is a hearer in one place wishes to qualify himself to be a principal speaker in some inferior company; and therefore more attention is given to narrations than anything else in conversation. It is true, indeed, that sallies of wit and quick replies are very pleasing in conversation; but they frequently tend to raise envy in some of the company: but the narrative way neither raises this, nor any other evil passion, but keeps all the company nearly upon an equality, and, if judiciously managed, will at once entertain and improve them all."
Regarding style, Dr. Johnson, who was himself well-known for his conversational skills, states that "no style is more widely accepted than narrative, because it doesn't create an impression of superiority over the rest of the group; therefore, it is most likely to please them. For this purpose, we should fill our memory with short stories and interesting historical anecdotes. Almost everyone listens eagerly to spontaneous storytelling. Vanity often collaborates with curiosity; for those who listen in one setting often want to position themselves as the main speaker in a less significant group, which is why more attention is paid to narratives than anything else in conversation. While clever remarks and quick comebacks are enjoyable in conversation, they often lead to envy among some people. On the other hand, the narrative style does not provoke this or any other negative emotions, but maintains a sense of equality among everyone, and if handled wisely, it can both entertain and enhance everyone involved."
10. GOOD TEMPER SHOULD BE CULTIVATED by every mistress, as upon it the welfare of the household may be said to turn; indeed, its influence can hardly be over-estimated, as it has the effect of moulding the characters of those around her, and of acting most beneficially on the happiness of the domestic circle. Every head of a household should strive to be cheerful, and should never fail to show a deep interest in all that appertains to the well-being of those who claim the protection of her roof. Gentleness, not partial and temporary, but universal and regular, should pervade her conduct; for where such a spirit is habitually manifested, it not only delights her children, but makes her domestics attentive and respectful; her visitors are also pleased by it, and their happiness is increased.
10. A good temperament should be cultivated by every household leader, as it plays a crucial role in the well-being of the home. Its impact can hardly be overstated, as it shapes the characters of those around her and contributes greatly to the happiness of the family. Every head of a household should aim to be cheerful and should consistently show genuine interest in the well-being of everyone under her roof. Gentleness, not just occasional but consistent and widespread, should characterize her behavior; because when such a spirit is regularly displayed, it not only brings joy to her children but also encourages her staff to be attentive and respectful. Visitors appreciate it too, and their happiness is enhanced as well.
11. ON THE IMPORTANT SUBJECT OF DRESS AND FASHION we cannot do better than quote an opinion from the eighth volume of the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." The writer there says, "Let people write, talk, lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever is the prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd, it will never look as ridiculous as another, or as any other, which, however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming, is totally opposite in style to that generally worn."
11. ABOUT THE IMPORTANT TOPIC OF DRESS AND FASHION, we can't do better than to reference an opinion from the eighth volume of the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." The author states, "Let people write, talk, lecture, or make jokes as they please, it can't be denied that, no matter what the current trend in clothing is—no matter how absurd it might be—it will never look as ridiculous as another style, which, no matter how convenient, comfortable, or even flattering, is completely different from what everyone else is wearing."
12. IN PURCHASING ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL, whether it be a silk dress, a bonnet, shawl, or riband, it is well for the buyer to consider three things: I. That it be not too expensive for her purse. II. That its colour harmonize with her complexion, and its size and pattern with her figure. III. That its tint allow of its being worn with the other garments she possesses. The quaint Fuller observes, that the good wife is none of our dainty dames, who love to appear in a variety of suits every day new, as if a gown, like a stratagem in war, were to be used but once. But our good wife sets up a sail according to the keel of her husband's estate; and, if of high parentage, she doth not so remember what she was by birth, that she forgets what she is by match.
12. WHEN BUYING CLOTHING, whether it’s a silk dress, a hat, a shawl, or a ribbon, it’s smart for the buyer to think about three things: I. That it’s not too expensive for her budget. II. That its color matches her complexion, and its size and pattern fit her body shape. III. That its color works well with the other clothes she already owns. The clever Fuller notes that a good wife isn’t one of those women who love to show off a different outfit every day, as if a gown, like a tactic in war, is meant to be worn just once. Instead, our good wife dresses according to her husband’s financial situation; and, even if she comes from a wealthy family, she doesn’t forget her current status because of her past.
To Brunettes, or those ladies having dark complexions, silks of a grave hue are adapted. For Blondes, or those having fair complexions, lighter colours are preferable, as the richer, deeper hues are too overpowering for the latter. The colours which go best together are green with violet; gold-colour with dark crimson or lilac; pale blue with scarlet; pink with black or white; and gray with scarlet or pink. A cold colour generally requires a warm tint to give life to it. Gray and pale blue, for instance, do not combine well, both being cold colours.
For Brunettes, or those with dark complexions, deep-colored silks are a good choice. For Blondes, or those with fair complexions, lighter colors are better, as richer, darker hues can be too overwhelming. The best color combinations are green with violet; gold with dark crimson or lilac; pale blue with scarlet; pink with black or white; and gray with scarlet or pink. Generally, a cool color needs a warm tint to bring it to life. For example, gray and pale blue don’t work well together since they are both cool colors.
13. THE DRESS OF THE MISTRESS should always be adapted to her circumstances, and be varied with different occasions. Thus, at breakfast she should be attired in a very neat and simple manner, wearing no ornaments. If this dress should decidedly pertain only to the breakfast-hour, and be specially suited for such domestic occupations as usually follow that meal, then it would be well to exchange it before the time for receiving visitors, if the mistress be in the habit of doing so. It is still to be remembered, however, that, in changing the dress, jewellery and ornaments are not to be worn until the full dress for dinner is assumed. Further information and hints on the subject of the toilet will appear under the department of the "LADY'S-MAID."
13. THE DRESS OF THE MISTRESS should always be suited to her circumstances and vary for different occasions. For breakfast, she should dress neatly and simply, without any ornaments. If this outfit is specifically for the breakfast hour and suitable for the household tasks that usually follow the meal, it’s a good idea to change it before hosting visitors, if that’s her routine. However, it’s important to remember that when changing outfits, jewelry and ornaments shouldn’t be worn until she’s fully dressed for dinner. More details and tips on this topic will be available in the "LADY'S-MAID" section.
The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Shakspeare's
tragedy of "Hamlet," is most excellent; and although given to
one of the male sex, will equally apply to a "fayre ladye:"—
The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Shakespeare's
tragedy of "Hamlet," is really good; and although it’s addressed to
a male, it applies just as well to a "fair lady:"—
"Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man."
"Spend as much on your clothes as your wallet allows,
But don't go overboard with style; be classy, not showy;
For clothing often reveals who you are."
14. CHARITY AND BENEVOLENCE ARE DUTIES which a mistress owes to herself as well as to her fellow-creatures; and there is scarcely any income so small, but something may be spared from it, even if it be but "the widow's mite." It is to be always remembered, however, that it is the spirit of charity which imparts to the gift a value far beyond its actual amount, and is by far its better part.
14. CHARITY AND BENEVOLENCE ARE DUTIES that a mistress owes to herself as well as to others; and there’s hardly any income so small that something can't be set aside, even if it’s just "the widow's mite." It's important to remember, though, that it's the spirit of charity that gives the gift a value far greater than its actual amount, and that is by far the most important part.
True Charity, a plant divinely nursed,
Fed by the love from which it rose at first,
Thrives against hope, and, in the rudest scene,
Storms but enliven its unfading green;
Exub'rant is the shadow it supplies,
Its fruit on earth, its growth above the skies.
True charity, a plant nurtured by divine care,
Fed by the love from which it initially grew,
Thrives despite challenges, and in the harshest conditions,
Storms only make its enduring green more vibrant;
It provides a rich shade,
Its fruits on earth, its growth beyond the skies.
Visiting the houses of the poor is the only practical way really to understand the actual state of each family; and although there may be difficulties in following out this plan in the metropolis and other large cities, yet in country towns and rural districts these objections do not obtain. Great advantages may result from visits paid to the poor; for there being, unfortunately, much ignorance, generally, amongst them with respect to all household knowledge, there will be opportunities for advising and instructing them, in a pleasant and unobtrusive manner, in cleanliness, industry, cookery, and good management.
Visiting the homes of the poor is the only real way to understand the true situation of each family. Although it can be challenging to do this in big cities, these problems don’t really exist in small towns and rural areas. There are many benefits to visiting the poor; since there is often a lack of knowledge among them regarding basic household skills, it provides a chance to offer advice and teach them, in a friendly and discreet way, about cleanliness, hard work, cooking, and good management.
15. IN MARKETING, THAT THE BEST ARTICLES ARE THE CHEAPEST, may be laid down as a rule; and it is desirable, unless an experienced and confidential housekeeper be kept, that the mistress should herself purchase all provisions and stores needed for the house. If the mistress be a young wife, and not accustomed to order "things for the house," a little practice and experience will soon teach her who are the best tradespeople to deal with, and what are the best provisions to buy. Under each particular head of FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, &c., will be described the proper means of ascertaining the quality of these comestibles.
15. IN MARKETING, THE BEST PRODUCTS ARE USUALLY THE CHEAPEST, which is a good rule to follow; and it’s important, unless you have an experienced and trusted housekeeper, that the woman in charge buys all the food and supplies needed for the house. If the woman is a young wife who isn’t used to ordering "household items," a little practice and experience will quickly teach her who the best suppliers are and what the best products to buy are. Under each category of FISH, MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, etc., there will be guidelines on how to determine the quality of these food items.
16. A HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNT-BOOK should invariably be kept, and kept punctually and precisely. The plan for keeping household accounts, which we should recommend, would be to make an entry, that is, write down into a daily diary every amount paid on that particular day, be it ever so small; then, at the end of the month, let these various payments be ranged under their specific heads of Butcher, Baker, &c.; and thus will be seen the proportions paid to each tradesman, and any one month's expenses may be contrasted with another. The housekeeping accounts should be balanced not less than once a month; so that you may see that the money you have in hand tallies with your account of it in your diary. Judge Haliburton never wrote truer words than when he said, "No man is rich whose expenditure exceeds his means, and no one is poor whose incomings exceed his outgoings."
16. A HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNT BOOK should always be maintained, and it should be done regularly and accurately. The best way to keep household accounts is to record every amount spent each day in a daily diary, no matter how small. Then, at the end of the month, group these expenses under specific categories like Butcher, Baker, etc. This will show you how much you've paid to each vendor, and you can compare one month's expenses with another. The housekeeping accounts should be balanced at least once a month so you can confirm that the money you have matches what you've recorded in your diary. Judge Haliburton never spoke truer words than when he said, "No one is rich whose expenses are greater than their means, and no one is poor whose income exceeds their expenses."
When, in a large establishment, a housekeeper is kept, it will be advisable for the mistress to examine her accounts regularly. Then any increase of expenditure which may be apparent, can easily be explained, and the housekeeper will have the satisfaction of knowing whether her efforts to manage her department well and economically, have been successful.
When there’s a housekeeper in a large establishment, it’s a good idea for the mistress to review her accounts regularly. This way, any noticeable increase in spending can be easily explained, and the housekeeper can feel assured about whether her efforts to manage her department effectively and economically have been successful.
17. ENGAGING DOMESTICS is one of those duties in which the judgment of the mistress must be keenly exercised. There are some respectable registry-offices, where good servants may sometimes be hired; but the plan rather to be recommended is, for the mistress to make inquiry amongst her circle of friends and acquaintances, and her tradespeople. The latter generally know those in their neighbourhood, who are wanting situations, and will communicate with them, when a personal interview with some of them will enable the mistress to form some idea of the characters of the applicants, and to suit herself accordingly.
17. HIRING HOUSEHOLD HELP is one of those tasks where the judgment of the homeowner must be carefully considered. There are some reputable agencies where good employees can sometimes be found; however, the better approach is for the homeowner to ask around within her circle of friends, acquaintances, and local businesses. These local vendors typically know who in the neighborhood is looking for work and can connect with them. This way, the homeowner can meet some of the candidates in person to get a sense of their character and find a suitable match.
We would here point out an error—and a grave one it is—into which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, expressly tell her all the duties which she will be expected to perform. This is an act of omission severely to be reprehended. Every portion of work which the maid will have to do, should be plainly stated by the mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, domestic contention is almost certain to ensue, and this may not be easily settled; so that a change of servants, which is so much to be deprecated, is continually occurring.
We want to highlight a serious mistake that some employers make. They don’t clearly explain all the duties a servant will need to handle when hiring her. This omission is really problematic. Every task the maid will be responsible for should be clearly outlined by the employer and understood by the servant. If this approach isn’t followed closely, conflicts at home are almost guaranteed and can be difficult to resolve, leading to frequent changes in staff, which is something to avoid.
18. IN OBTAINING A SERVANT'S CHARACTER, it is not well to be guided by a written one from some unknown quarter; but it is better to have an interview, if at all possible, with the former mistress. By this means you will be assisted in your decision of the suitableness of the servant for your place, from the appearance of the lady and the state of her house. Negligence and want of cleanliness in her and her household generally, will naturally lead you to the conclusion, that her servant has suffered from the influence of the bad example.
18. WHEN IT COMES TO GETTING A SERVANT'S REFERENCE, it's not wise to rely on a written one from an unknown source; it's better to have a meeting, if possible, with the previous employer. This way, you’ll be better equipped to judge whether the servant is right for your home, based on the appearance of the woman and the condition of her household. If she is careless and unclean in her own life and home, it’s likely that her servant has also been affected by her poor example.
The proper course to pursue in order to obtain a personal interview with the lady is this:—The servant in search of the situation must be desired to see her former mistress, and ask her to be kind enough to appoint a time, convenient to herself, when you may call on her; this proper observance of courtesy being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to the honesty and general morality of her former servant; and if no objection is stated in that respect, her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so that you may avoid disappointment and trouble, by knowing the weak points of your domestic.
The right way to get a personal interview with the lady is as follows: The servant looking for a job should ask to speak with her former employer and request that she kindly set a time that works for her when you can visit; this polite approach is important to avoid any awkward surprise visits from a stranger. Your initial questions should focus on the honesty and general character of her previous servant; if there are no issues mentioned in that regard, you can then find out about her other qualifications. Make sure to ask detailed questions so you can avoid any disappointment or complications by understanding the weaknesses of your potential domestic help.
19. THE TREATMENT OF SERVANTS is of the highest possible moment, as well to the mistress as to the domestics themselves. On the head of the house the latter will naturally fix their attention; and if they perceive that the mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they will not fail to respect her. If, also, a benevolent desire is shown to promote their comfort, at the same time that a steady performance of their duty is exacted, then their respect will not be unmingled with affection, and they will be still more solicitous to continue to deserve her favour.
19. THE TREATMENT OF SERVANTS is extremely important, both for the homeowner and for the staff themselves. The staff will naturally focus on the leader of the household, and if they see that the homeowner's actions are guided by strong and ethical principles, they will definitely respect her. If, in addition, she shows a genuine interest in their comfort while also expecting them to perform their duties consistently, their respect will be mixed with genuine affection, making them even more eager to earn her approval.
20. IN GIVING A CHARACTER, it is scarcely necessary to say that the mistress should be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not fair for one lady to recommend to another, a servant she would not keep herself. The benefit, too, to the servant herself is of small advantage; for the failings which she possesses will increase if suffered to be indulged with impunity. It is hardly necessary to remark, on the other hand, that no angry feelings on the part of a mistress towards her late servant, should ever be allowed, in the slightest degree, to influence her, so far as to induce her to disparage her maid's character.
20. WHEN GIVING A REFERENCE, it's important for the mistress to be guided by a strong sense of fairness. It's not right for one woman to recommend a servant to another if she wouldn't want to keep that servant herself. This doesn't really help the servant either; her flaws will only get worse if she’s allowed to get away with them. On the flip side, it's also crucial that any negative feelings the mistress might have towards her former servant should never influence her enough to tarnish the maid's reputation.
21. THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF THE AVERAGE YEARLY WAGES paid to domestics, with the various members of the household placed in the order in which they are usually ranked, will serve as a guide to regulate the expenditure of an establishment:—
21. THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF AVERAGE YEARLY WAGES paid to domestic workers, with the different members of the household listed in the order they are typically ranked, will act as a guide to help manage the expenses of a household:—
When not found in When found in
Livery. Livery.
When not found in When found in
Livery. Livery.
The House Steward From £10 to £80 —
The Valet " 25 to 50 From £20 to £30
The Butler " 25 to 50 —
The Cook " 20 to 40 —
The Gardener " 20 to 40 —
The Footman " 20 to 40 " 15 to 25
The Under Butler " 15 to 30 " 15 to 25
The Coachman — " 20 to 35
The Groom " 15 to 30 " 12 to 20
The Under Footman — " 12 to 20
The Page or Footboy " 8 to 18 " 6 to 14
The Stableboy " 6 to 12 —
The House Steward From £10 to £80 —
The Valet " 25 to 50 From £20 to £30
The Butler " 25 to 50 —
The Cook " 20 to 40 —
The Gardener " 20 to 40 —
The Footman " 20 to 40 " 15 to 25
The Under Butler " 15 to 30 " 15 to 25
The Coachman — " 20 to 35
The Groom " 15 to 30 " 12 to 20
The Under Footman — " 12 to 20
The Page or Footboy " 8 to 18 " 6 to 14
The Stableboy " 6 to 12 —
When no extra When an extra
allowance is made for allowance is made for
Tea, Sugar, and Beer. Tea, Sugar, and Beer.
When no extra When an extra
allowance is made for allowance is made for
Tea, Sugar, and Beer. Tea, Sugar, and Beer.
The Housekeeper From £20 to £15 From £18 to £40
The Lady's-maid " 12 to 25 " 10 to 20
The Head Nurse " 15 to 30 " 13 to 26
The Cook " 11 to 30 " 12 to 26
The Upper Housemaid " 12 to 20 " 10 to 17
The Upper Laundry-maid " 12 to 18 " 10 to 15
The Maid-of-all-work " 9 to 14 " 7-1/2 to 11
The Under Housemaid " 8 to 12 " 6-1/2 to 10
The Still-room Maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 13
The Nursemaid " 8 to 12 " 5 to 10
The Under Laundry-maid " 9 to 11 " 8 to 12
The Kitchen-maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 12
The Scullery-maid " 5 to 9 " 4 to 8
The Housekeeper From £20 to £15 From £18 to £40
The Lady's-maid " 12 to 25 " 10 to 20
The Head Nurse " 15 to 30 " 13 to 26
The Cook " 11 to 30 " 12 to 26
The Upper Housemaid " 12 to 20 " 10 to 17
The Upper Laundry-maid " 12 to 18 " 10 to 15
The Maid-of-all-work " 9 to 14 " 7-1/2 to 11
The Under Housemaid " 8 to 12 " 6-1/2 to 10
The Still-room Maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 13
The Nursemaid " 8 to 12 " 5 to 10
The Under Laundry-maid " 9 to 11 " 8 to 12
The Kitchen-maid " 9 to 14 " 8 to 12
The Scullery-maid " 5 to 9 " 4 to 8
These quotations of wages are those usually given in or near the metropolis; but, of course, there are many circumstances connected with locality, and also having reference to the long service on the one hand, or the inexperience on the other, of domestics, which may render the wages still higher or lower than those named above. All the domestics mentioned in the above table would enter into the establishment of a wealthy nobleman. The number of servants, of course, would become smaller in proportion to the lesser size of the establishment; and we may here enumerate a scale of servants suited to various incomes, commencing with—
These wage quotes are typically given in or around the city, but there are many factors related to location, as well as considerations of the long experience on one side or the lack of it on the other for domestic workers, which may make the wages even higher or lower than those mentioned above. All the domestic workers listed in the table would work for a wealthy nobleman. The number of servants would naturally decrease as the size of the household gets smaller, and here we can outline a range of servant positions suitable for different income levels, starting with—
About £1,000 a year—A cook, upper housemaid, nursemaid, under
housemaid,
and a man servant.
About £750 a year—A cook, housemaid, nursemaid, and footboy.
About £500 a year—A cook, housemaid, and nursemaid.
About £300 a year—A maid-of-all-work and nursemaid.
About £200 or £150 a year—A maid-of-all-work (and girl occasionally).
About £1,000 a year—A cook, a head housemaid, a nanny, a junior housemaid, and a male servant.
About £750 a year—A cook, a housemaid, a nanny, and a footman.
About £500 a year—A cook, a housemaid, and a nanny.
About £300 a year—A general maid and a nanny.
About £200 or £150 a year—A general maid (and sometimes a girl).
22. HAVING THUS INDICATED some of the more general duties of the mistress, relative to the moral government of her household, we will now give a few specific instructions on matters having a more practical relation to the position which she is supposed to occupy in the eye of the world. To do this the more clearly, we will begin with her earliest duties, and take her completely through the occupations of a day.
22. HAVING THUS INDICATED some of the more general duties of the mistress regarding the moral management of her household, we will now provide a few specific instructions on matters that have a more practical connection to the role she is expected to fill in the public eye. To make this clearer, we will start with her earliest responsibilities and walk through the tasks of a day.
23. HAVING RISEN EARLY, as we have already advised (see 3), and having given due attention to the bath, and made a careful toilet, it will be well at once to see that the children have received their proper ablutions, and are in every way clean and comfortable. The first meal of the day, breakfast, will then be served, at which all the family should be punctually present, unless illness, or other circumstances, prevent.
23. AFTER WAKING UP EARLY, as we’ve already mentioned (see 3), and after taking a proper bath and getting ready, it’s important to make sure the children have had their baths and are clean and comfortable. The first meal of the day, breakfast, will then be served, and everyone in the family should be there on time, unless they’re sick or there are other reasons that keep them away.
24. AFTER BREAKFAST IS OVER, it will be well for the mistress to make a round of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all are in order, and that the morning's work has been properly performed by the various domestics. The orders for the day should then be given, and any questions which the domestics desire to ask, respecting their several departments, should be answered, and any special articles they may require, handed to them from the store-closet.
24. AFTER BREAKFAST IS OVER, it’s a good idea for the lady of the house to check the kitchen and other areas to ensure everything’s in order and that the morning tasks have been done properly by the staff. The day’s instructions should then be given, and any questions the staff have about their specific duties should be answered, along with providing them with any special items they may need from the storage closet.
In those establishments where there is a housekeeper, it will not be so necessary for the mistress, personally, to perform the above-named duties.
In places where there is a housekeeper, it won't be as important for the mistress to handle the previously mentioned tasks herself.
25. AFTER THIS GENERAL SUPERINTENDENCE of her servants, the mistress, if a mother of a young family, may devote herself to the instruction of some of its younger members, or to the examination of the state of their wardrobe, leaving the later portion of the morning for reading, or for some amusing recreation. "Recreation," says Bishop Hall, "is intended to the mind as whetting is to the scythe, to sharpen the edge of it, which would otherwise grow dull and blunt. He, therefore, that spends his whole time in recreation is ever whetting, never mowing; his grass may grow and his steed starve; as, contrarily, he that always toils and never recreates, is ever mowing, never whetting, labouring much to little purpose. As good no scythe as no edge. Then only doth the work go forward, when the scythe is so seasonably and moderately whetted that it may cut, and so cut, that it may have the help of sharpening."
25. AFTER THIS GENERAL SUPERVISION of her staff, the mistress, if she is a mother of young children, can focus on teaching some of the younger ones or checking their clothing, leaving the later part of the morning for reading or some fun activities. "Recreation," says Bishop Hall, "is like sharpening a scythe; it keeps the mind sharp, which would otherwise become dull. So, he who spends all his time on recreation is just sharpening, never actually using it; his grass may grow while his horse goes hungry. On the other hand, someone who works all the time without taking breaks is always cutting, never sharpening, putting in a lot of effort for little result. It's better to have no scythe than one with no edge. Work only progresses when the scythe is sharpened just right, allowing it to cut effectively."
Unless the means of the mistress be very circumscribed, and she be obliged to devote a great deal of her time to the making of her children's clothes, and other economical pursuits, it is right that she should give some time to the pleasures of literature, the innocent delights of the garden, and to the improvement of any special abilities for music, painting, and other elegant arts, which she may, happily, possess.
Unless the resources of the lady are very limited, and she has to spend a lot of her time making her children's clothes and engaging in other practical activities, it's important that she dedicates some time to the joys of reading, the simple pleasures of gardening, and developing any special talents she might have in music, painting, or other fine arts.
26. THESE DUTIES AND PLEASURES BEING PERFORMED AND ENJOYED, the hour of luncheon will have arrived. This is a very necessary meal between an early breakfast and a late dinner, as a healthy person, with good exercise, should have a fresh supply of food once in four hours. It should be a light meal; but its solidity must, of course, be, in some degree, proportionate to the time it is intended to enable you to wait for your dinner, and the amount of exercise you take in the mean time. At this time, also, the servants' dinner will be served.
26. ONCE THESE TASKS AND ENJOYMENTS ARE COMPLETED, it will be time for lunch. This meal is important between an early breakfast and a late dinner, as a healthy person who exercises regularly needs fresh food about every four hours. Lunch should be light, but the heaviness should depend on how long it needs to sustain you until dinner and the amount of physical activity you do in the meantime. This is also when the servants will have their dinner.
In those establishments where an early dinner is served, that will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the children and about one o'clock, the mistress and the elder portion of the family make their luncheon at the same time from the same joint, or whatever may be provided. A mistress will arrange, according to circumstances, the serving of the meal; but the more usual plan is for the lady of the house to have the joint brought to her table, and afterwards carried to the nursery.
In places where an early dinner is served, it will obviously replace lunch. In many homes, where a dinner for the children is provided around one o'clock, the lady of the house and the older members of the family have their lunch at the same time using the same main dish or whatever else is available. The hostess will organize the meal service based on the situation, but the common approach is for her to have the main dish brought to her table and then taken to the nursery afterward.
27. AFTER LUNCHEON, MORNING CALLS AND VISITS may be made and received. These may be divided under three heads: those of ceremony, friendship, and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony, or courtesy, which occasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid under various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining at a friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. These visits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being quite sufficient. A lady paying a visit may remove her boa or neckerchief; but neither her shawl nor bonnet.
27. AFTER LUNCH, MORNING CALLS AND VISITS can be made and received. These can be categorized into three types: ceremonial, friendly, and those for congratulations or condolences. Ceremonial or courtesy visits, which sometimes turn into friendly ones, should be made in various situations. For example, they are generally expected after having dinner at a friend's house or after a party like a ball or picnic. These visits should be brief, lasting about fifteen to twenty minutes. A woman visiting can take off her boa or neckerchief, but she should keep her shawl and bonnet on.
When other visitors are announced, it is well to retire as soon as possible, taking care to let it appear that their arrival is not the cause. When they are quietly seated, and the bustle of their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascertained the luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as possible, without, however, showing that you feel yourself an intruder. It is not difficult for any well-bred or even good-tempered person, to know what to say on such an occasion, and, on politely withdrawing, a promise can be made to call again, if the lady you have called on, appear really disappointed.
When other guests arrive, it’s best to leave as soon as you can, making sure it doesn’t look like their arrival is the reason. Once they’re settled in and the commotion of their entrance has calmed down, stand up from your chair, say goodbye to the hostess, and give a polite nod to the guests. If you show up at a bad time, not knowing when lunch is, or if it’s due to any other oversight, leave as soon as you can without making it obvious that you feel like an intruder. It’s not hard for any well-mannered or even good-natured person to know what to say in such a situation, and when you politely excuse yourself, you can promise to visit again if the hostess seems genuinely disappointed.
28. IN PAYING VISITS OF FRIENDSHIP, it will not be so necessary to be guided by etiquette as in paying visits of ceremony; and if a lady be pressed by her friend to remove her shawl and bonnet, it can be done if it will not interfere with her subsequent arrangements. It is, however, requisite to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long, if your friend is engaged. The courtesies of society should ever be maintained, even in the domestic circle, and amongst the nearest friends. During these visits, the manners should be easy and cheerful, and the subjects of conversation such as may be readily terminated. Serious discussions or arguments are to be altogether avoided, and there is much danger and impropriety in expressing opinions of those persons and characters with whom, perhaps, there is but a slight acquaintance. (See 6, 7, and 9.)
28. WHEN VISITING FRIENDS, it’s not as important to follow strict etiquette as when attending formal visits. If a friend insists that a lady take off her shawl and bonnet, she can do so as long as it doesn't interfere with her plans later. However, it’s still important to visit at appropriate times and to avoid overstaying if your friend is busy. The common courtesies should always be observed, even among close friends and family. During these visits, the atmosphere should be relaxed and friendly, and the topics of conversation should be light and easily wrapped up. Serious discussions or arguments should be completely avoided, and it’s inappropriate to share opinions about people and things you don’t know well. (See 6, 7, and 9.)
It is not advisable, at any time, to take favourite dogs into another lady's drawing-room, for many persons have an absolute dislike to such animals; and besides this, there is always a chance of a breakage of some article occurring, through their leaping and bounding here and there, sometimes very much to the fear and annoyance of the hostess. Her children, also, unless they are particularly well-trained and orderly, and she is on exceedingly friendly terms with the hostess, should not accompany a lady in making morning calls. Where a lady, however, pays her visits in a carriage, the children can be taken in the vehicle, and remain in it until the visit is over.
It's not a good idea to bring your favorite dogs into another woman's living room, as many people really dislike pets. Plus, there's always a risk that something could get broken if the dogs start jumping around, which could upset the hostess. Additionally, unless her kids are very well-behaved and she has a close relationship with the hostess, they shouldn't join her on morning visits. However, if a woman travels by carriage to visit, the children can stay in the vehicle until the visit is done.
29. FOR MORNING CALLS, it is well to be neatly attired; for a costume very different to that you generally wear, or anything approaching an evening dress, will be very much out of place. As a general rule, it may be said, both in reference to this and all other occasions, it is better to be under-dressed than over-dressed.
29. FOR MORNING CALLS, it’s a good idea to dress neatly; wearing an outfit that’s very different from what you usually wear, or anything that resembles evening attire, will look out of place. Generally speaking, whether for this or any other occasion, it's better to be underdressed than overdressed.
A strict account should be kept of ceremonial visits, and notice how soon your visits have been returned. An opinion may thus be formed as to whether your frequent visits are, or are not, desirable. There are, naturally, instances when the circumstances of old age or ill health will preclude any return of a call; but when this is the case, it must not interrupt the discharge of the duty.
A detailed record should be maintained of ceremonial visits, and pay attention to how quickly your visits are reciprocated. This can help determine whether your frequent visits are welcome or not. Of course, there are occasions when factors like old age or illness may prevent someone from returning a call; however, when this happens, it should not stop you from fulfilling your duty.
30. IN PAYING VISITS OF CONDOLENCE, it is to be remembered that they should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. If the acquaintance, however, is but slight, then immediately after the family has appeared at public worship. A lady should send in her card, and if her friends be able to receive her, the visitor's manner and conversation should be subdued and in harmony with the character of her visit. Courtesy would dictate that a mourning card should be used, and that visitors, in paying condoling visits, should be dressed in black, either silk or plain-coloured apparel. Sympathy with the affliction of the family, is thus expressed, and these attentions are, in such cases, pleasing and soothing.
30. WHEN PAYING CONDOLENCE VISITS, remember that they should be made within a week after the event that prompts them. However, if you don't know the person well, you should go right after the family has attended a public service. A woman should leave her card, and if her friends can meet her, the visitor's demeanor and conversation should be respectful and suited to the occasion. It’s considerate to use a mourning card and for visitors to wear black, whether it's silk or plain-colored clothing. This expresses sympathy for the family's loss, and these gestures are appreciated and comforting in such situations.
In all these visits, if your acquaintance or friend be not at home, a card should be left. If in a carriage, the servant will answer your inquiry and receive your card; if paying your visits on foot, give your card to the servant in the hall, but leave to go in and rest should on no account be asked. The form of words, "Not at home," may be understood in different senses; but the only courteous way is to receive them as being perfectly true. You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home, and that she would make an exception in your favour, or you may think that your acquaintance is not desired; but, in either case, not the slightest word is to escape you, which would suggest, on your part, such an impression.
In all these visits, if your friend or acquaintance isn’t home, you should leave a card. If you're in a carriage, the servant will answer your question and take your card; if you're visiting on foot, hand your card to the servant in the hall, but don’t ask to go in and rest. The phrase "Not at home" can mean different things, but the polite approach is to accept it as completely true. You might think that the lady of the house is actually home and would make an exception for you, or you might believe that you’re not wanted, but in either case, you shouldn’t say anything that would suggest you think that way.
31. IN RECEIVING MORNING CALLS, the foregoing description of the etiquette to be observed in paying them, will be of considerable service. It is to be added, however, that the occupations of drawing, music, or reading should be suspended on the entrance of morning visitors. If a lady, however, be engaged with light needlework, and none other is appropriate in the drawing-room, it may not be, under some circumstances, inconsistent with good breeding to quietly continue it during conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted, or the visitors be gentlemen.
31. WHEN RECEIVING MORNING VISITORS, the earlier guidelines about etiquette will be very helpful. However, it should be noted that activities like drawing, playing music, or reading should pause when morning guests arrive. If a lady is working on light needlework and there's nothing else suitable in the living room, it might not be considered rude to continue it quietly during the conversation, especially if the visit lasts a long time or if the visitors are men.
Formerly the custom was to accompany all visitors quitting the house to the door, and there take leave of them; but modern society, which has thrown off a great deal of this kind of ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her seat, shake hands, or courtesy, in accordance with the intimacy she has with her guests, and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making a first call, either upon a newly-married couple, or persons newly arrived in the neighbourhood, a lady should leave her husband's card together with her own, at the same time, stating that the profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him from having the pleasure of paying the visit, with her. It is a custom with many ladies, when on the eve of an absence from their neighbourhood, to leave or send their own and husband's cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand corner. These letters are the initials of the French words, "Pour prendre congé," meaning, "To take leave."
It used to be customary to see all guests to the door when they left, but modern society has loosened many of these formalities. Now, it's enough for the lady of the house to stand up, shake hands or curtsy based on her relationship with her guests, and ring the bell to call a servant to help them out. When making a first visit to a newlywed couple or newcomers in the neighborhood, a lady should leave both her card and her husband’s card, along with a note saying that his work commitments have kept him from joining her. Many women also make it a tradition to leave or send their own and their husband’s cards with the initials P. P. C. in the corner before they leave the neighborhood. These letters stand for the French phrase, "Pour prendre congé," which means "To take leave."
32. THE MORNING CALLS BEING PAID OR RECEIVED, and their etiquette properly attended to, the next great event of the day in most establishments is "The Dinner;" and we only propose here to make a few general remarks on this important topic, as, in future pages, the whole "Art of Dining" will be thoroughly considered, with reference to its economy, comfort, and enjoyment.
32. ONCE THE MORNING VISITS HAVE BEEN PAID OR RECEIVED, and the proper etiquette has been followed, the next big event of the day for most households is "The Dinner;" and we only intend to share a few general thoughts on this important topic here, as in later sections, the entire "Art of Dining" will be explored in detail, focusing on its cost-effectiveness, comfort, and enjoyment.
33. IN GIVING OR ACCEPTING AN INVITATION FOR DINNER, the following is the form of words generally made use of. They, however, can be varied in proportion to the intimacy or position of the hosts and guests:—
33. WHEN GIVING OR ACCEPTING A DINNER INVITATION, the following phrases are commonly used. They can, however, be adjusted based on how close you are to the hosts and guests:—
Mr. and Mrs. A—— present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. B——,
and request the honour, [or hope to have the pleasure] of their
company
to dinner on Wednesday, the 6th of December next.
Mr. and Mrs. A—— send their regards to Mr. and Mrs. B——,
and would like to invite them
to dinner
on Wednesday, December 6th.
A—— STREET,
November 13th, 1859. R. S. V. P.
A—— STREET,
November 13, 1859. R.S.V.P.
The letters in the corner imply "Répondez, s'il vous plaît;" meaning, "an answer will oblige." The reply, accepting the invitation, is couched in the following terms:—
The letters in the corner imply "Répondez, s'il vous plaît;" meaning, "a response would be appreciated." The reply, accepting the invitation, is worded as follows:—
Mr. and Mrs. B—— present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. A—-, and will do themselves the honour of, [or will have much pleasure in] accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the 6th of December next.
Mr. and Mrs. B—— send their regards to Mr. and Mrs. A—- and are pleased to accept their kind invitation to dinner on December 6th.
B—— SQUARE, November 18th, 1859.
B—— SQUARE, November 18, 1859.
Cards, or invitations for a dinner-party, should be issued a fortnight or three weeks (sometimes even a month) beforehand, and care should be taken by the hostess, in the selection of the invited guests, that they should be suited to each other. Much also of the pleasure of a dinner-party will depend on the arrangement of the guests at table, so as to form a due admixture of talkers and listeners, the grave and the gay. If an invitation to dinner is accepted, the guests should be punctual, and the mistress ready in her drawing-room to receive them. At some periods it has been considered fashionable to come late to dinner, but lately nous avons changé tout cela.
Invitations for a dinner party should be sent out two weeks to a month in advance, and the hostess should carefully choose guests who will get along with each other. A lot of the enjoyment of a dinner party depends on how the guests are arranged at the table, striking a balance between talkers and listeners, serious and lighthearted people. When an invitation to dinner is accepted, guests should arrive on time, and the hostess should be ready in her living room to greet them. At one time, being fashionably late to dinner was popular, but recently, we’ve changed all that.
34. THE HALF-HOUR BEFORE DINNER has always been considered as the great ordeal through which the mistress, in giving a dinner-party, will either pass with flying colours, or, lose many of her laurels. The anxiety to receive her guests,—her hope that all will be present in due time,—her trust in the skill of her cook, and the attention of the other domestics, all tend to make these few minutes a trying time. The mistress, however, must display no kind of agitation, but show her tact in suggesting light and cheerful subjects of conversation, which will be much aided by the introduction of any particular new book, curiosity of art, or article of vertu, which may pleasantly engage the attention of the company. "Waiting for Dinner," however, is a trying time, and there are few who have not felt—
34. THE HALF-HOUR BEFORE DINNER has always been seen as the big test for the hostess at a dinner party, where she can either shine or lose some of her reputation. The stress of welcoming her guests—her hope that everyone will arrive on time—her faith in her cook's abilities, and the attentiveness of the staff all make these moments quite challenging. However, the hostess must not show any sign of nerves; she should demonstrate her skill by steering the conversation towards light and cheerful topics, which can be helped by introducing a new book, an art curiosity, or an intriguing item that can entertain the guests. "Waiting for Dinner," however, can be a tough time, and there are few who haven't felt—
"How sad it is to sit and pine,
The long half-hour before we dine!
Upon our watches oft to look,
Then wonder at the clock and cook,
* * * * *
"And strive to laugh in spite of Fate!
But laughter forced soon quits the room,
And leaves it in its former gloom.
But lo! the dinner now appears,
The object of our hopes and fears,
The end of all our pain!"
"How sad it is to sit and wait,
The long half-hour before we eat!
Looking often at our watches,
Then wondering about the clock and food,
* * * * *
"And trying to laugh despite our fate!
But forced laughter quickly leaves the room,
And leaves it in its old gloom.
But look! dinner is finally here,
The focus of our hopes and fears,
The end of all our pain!"
In giving an entertainment of this kind, the mistress should remember that it is her duty to make her guests feel happy, comfortable, and quite at their ease; and the guests should also consider that they have come to the house of their hostess to be happy. Thus an opportunity is given to all for innocent enjoyment and intellectual improvement, when also acquaintances may be formed that may prove invaluable through life, and information gained that will enlarge the mind. Many celebrated men and women have been great talkers; and, amongst others, the genial Sir Walter Scott, who spoke freely to every one, and a favourite remark of whom it was, that he never did so without learning something he didn't know before.
When hosting an event like this, the hostess should remember that it’s her job to make her guests feel happy, comfortable, and at ease. The guests, in turn, should keep in mind that they’ve come to their hostess’s home to enjoy themselves. This creates a great opportunity for everyone to have fun, learn something new, and possibly form valuable friendships that can last a lifetime. Many famous men and women have been great conversationalists, including the friendly Sir Walter Scott, who chatted openly with everyone and often said that he always learned something new from those conversations.
35. DINNER BEING ANNOUNCED, the host offers his arm to, and places on his right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to whom he desires to pay most respect, either on account of her age, position, or from her being the greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and her husband present, the latter takes the hostess to her place at table, and seats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow in couples, as specified by the master and mistress of the house, arranging the party according to their rank and other circumstances which may be known to the host and hostess.
35. When dinner is announced, the host offers his arm to the lady he wants to honor the most, either because of her age, status, or because she’s the biggest outsider in the group. If this lady is married and her husband is there, he takes the hostess to her seat at the table and sits to her right. The other guests follow in pairs, as directed by the host and hostess, arranging the seating based on their rank and any other relevant factors known to the host and hostess.
It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly (and correctly) written on small cards, and placed at that part of the table where it is desired they should sit. With respect to the number of guests, it has often been said, that a private dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve is, perhaps, in a general way, sufficient to enjoy themselves and be enjoyed. White kid gloves are worn by ladies at dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the business of dining commences.
It will be very helpful to set up a dinner party if you have the names of the guests neatly (and correctly) written on small cards and placed at the spot on the table where you want them to sit. Regarding the number of guests, it’s often said that a private dinner party should have at least as many guests as there are Graces and no more than the number of Muses. A group of ten or twelve is usually a good size for everyone to enjoy themselves and be enjoyed. Ladies typically wear white kid gloves at dinner parties, but they should take them off before the meal starts.
36. THE GUESTS BEING SEATED AT THE DINNER-TABLE, the lady begins to help the soup, which is handed round, commencing with the gentleman on her right and on her left, and continuing in the same order till all are served. It is generally established as a rule, not to ask for soup or fish twice, as, in so doing, part of the company may be kept waiting too long for the second course, when, perhaps, a little revenge is taken by looking at the awkward consumer of a second portion. This rule, however, may, under various circumstances, not be considered as binding.
36. WITH THE GUESTS SEATED AT THE DINNER TABLE, the lady starts to serve the soup, going first to the gentleman on her right and then to the one on her left, continuing this way until everyone has been served. It's generally accepted as a rule not to ask for soup or fish twice, as doing so might make some guests wait too long for the next course, and they might end up looking over at the person who requested a second helping with some annoyance. However, this rule can be considered flexible depending on the situation.
It is not usual, where taking wine is en règle, for a gentleman to ask a lady to take wine until the fish or soup is finished, and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the right of the hostess, may politely inquire if she will do him the honour of taking wine with him. This will act as a signal to the rest of the company, the gentleman of the house most probably requesting the same pleasure of the ladies at his right and left. At many tables, however, the custom or fashion of drinking wine in this manner, is abolished, and the servant fills the glasses of the guests with the various wines suited to the course which is in progress.
It’s not common, when it comes to having wine, for a man to ask a woman to drink until the fish or soup is done. After that, the man who is honored by sitting on the hostess's right can politely ask if she would do him the honor of having a drink with him. This signals the rest of the guests, and the host will likely ask the same of the ladies sitting next to him. However, at many tables, this custom or trend of drinking in this way has been replaced, and the server fills the guests' glasses with the different wines that match the course being served.
37. WHEN DINNER IS FINISHED, THE DESSERT is placed on the table, accompanied with finger-glasses. It is the custom of some gentlemen to wet a corner of the napkin; but the hostess, whose behaviour will set the tone to all the ladies present, will merely wet the tips of her fingers, which will serve all the purposes required. The French and other continentals have a habit of gargling the mouth; but it is a custom which no English gentlewoman should, in the slightest degree, imitate.
37. WHEN DINNER IS DONE, THE DESSERT is set on the table, along with finger bowls. Some men have the habit of wetting a corner of their napkin, but the hostess, whose actions will influence all the ladies present, will simply wet the tips of her fingers, which will be enough for what she needs. The French and other Europeans often rinse their mouths, but this is a practice that no English woman should, in any way, copy.
38. WHEN FRUIT HAS BEEN TAKEN, and a glass or two of wine passed round, the time will have arrived when the hostess will rise, and thus give the signal for the ladies to leave the gentlemen, and retire to the drawing-room. The gentlemen of the party will rise at the same time, and he who is nearest the door, will open it for the ladies, all remaining courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn. Dr. Johnson has a curious paragraph on the effects of a dinner on men. "Before dinner," he says, "men meet with great inequality of understanding; and those who are conscious of their inferiority have the modesty not to talk. When they have drunk wine, every man feels himself happy, and loses that modesty, and grows impudent and vociferous; but he is not improved, he is only not sensible of his defects." This is rather severe, but there may be truth in it.
38. WHEN FRUIT HAS BEEN SERVED, and a glass or two of wine has been passed around, it will be time for the hostess to stand up, signaling the ladies to leave the gentlemen and head to the drawing-room. The men will stand at the same time, and the one closest to the door will open it for the ladies, with everyone else politely remaining standing until the last lady has exited. Dr. Johnson has an interesting observation about the effects of dinner on men. "Before dinner," he notes, "men meet with great inequality of understanding; and those who know they are less knowledgeable usually have the humility not to speak. After they’ve had some wine, every man feels cheerful, loses that modesty, and becomes bold and loud; but he hasn’t improved, he’s just unaware of his flaws." This might be a bit harsh, but there could be some truth to it.
In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests, it was necessary for the ladies to retire earlier than they do at present, for the gentlemen of the company soon became unfit to conduct themselves with that decorum which is essential in the presence of ladies. Thanks, however, to the improvements in modern society, and the high example shown to the nation by its most illustrious personages, temperance is, in these happy days, a striking feature in the character of a gentleman. Delicacy of conduct towards the female sex has increased with the esteem in which they are now universally held, and thus, the very early withdrawing of the ladies from the dining-room is to be deprecated. A lull in the conversation will seasonably indicate the moment for the ladies' departure.
In the past, when drinks were more freely passed around among the guests, it was necessary for the women to leave earlier than they do now, because the men in the company quickly became unable to behave with the proper decorum that is important when ladies are present. However, thanks to the progress in modern society and the high standards set by its most prominent figures, self-control is, in these fortunate times, a notable trait of a gentleman. Consideration towards women has grown in line with the respect they are now universally given, and therefore, the early departure of women from the dining room should be discouraged. A pause in the conversation will appropriately signal the time for the women to leave.
39. AFTER-DINNER INVITATIONS MAY BE GIVEN; by which we wish to be understood, invitations for the evening. The time of the arrival of these visitors will vary according to their engagements, or sometimes will be varied in obedience to the caprices of fashion. Guests invited for the evening are, however, generally considered at liberty to arrive whenever it will best suit themselves,—usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier hours are specifically named. By this arrangement, many fashionable people and others, who have numerous engagements to fulfil, often contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in the course of one evening.
39. AFTER-DINNER INVITATIONS CAN BE EXTENDED; by which we mean invitations for the evening. The arrival times of these guests will vary based on their schedules, or sometimes change due to the whims of fashion. However, guests invited for the evening are generally seen as free to show up at their convenience—usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier times are specifically mentioned. This way, many fashionable individuals and others with multiple commitments often manage to attend two or three parties in one evening.
40. THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER-PARTY TABLE being disposed of, let us now enter slightly into that of an evening party or ball. The invitations issued and accepted for either of these, will be written in the same style as those already described for a dinner-party. They should be sent out at least three weeks before the day fixed for the event, and should be replied to within a week of their receipt. By attending to these courtesies, the guests will have time to consider their engagements and prepare their dresses, and the hostess will, also, know what will be the number of her party.
40. THE ETIQUETTE OF THE DINNER-PARTY TABLE aside, let’s now briefly discuss the etiquette of an evening party or ball. The invitations sent out and accepted for either event should be written in the same style as those mentioned for a dinner party. They should be sent out at least three weeks before the date of the event and should be responded to within a week of receiving them. By following these guidelines, guests will have enough time to plan their schedules and prepare their outfits, and the hostess will also know how many people will be attending her event.
If the entertainment is to be simply an evening party, this must be specified on the card or note of invitation. Short or verbal invitations, except where persons are exceedingly intimate, or are very near relations, are very far from proper, although, of course, in this respect and in many other respects, very much always depends on the manner in which the invitation is given. True politeness, however, should be studied even amongst the nearest friends and relations; for the mechanical forms of good breeding are of great consequence, and too much familiarity may have, for its effect, the destruction of friendship.
If the gathering is just an evening party, this needs to be clearly stated on the invitation card or note. Short or casual invitations, unless the people are very close friends or family, are generally inappropriate. However, much also depends on how the invitation is presented. True politeness should still be observed even among close friends and family, because the basic rules of good manners are important, and too much familiarity can damage a friendship.
41. AS THE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN ARRIVE, each should be shown to a room exclusively provided for their reception; and in that set apart for the ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist in uncloaking, and helping to arrange the hair and toilet of those who require it. It will be found convenient, in those cases where the number of guests is large, to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaks and shawls of each lady, a duplicate of which should be handed to the guest. Coffee is sometimes provided in this, or an ante-room, for those who would like to partake of it.
41. AS THE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN ARRIVE, each should be shown to a room specifically designated for their reception; and in the one set aside for the ladies, attendants should be on hand to help with removing their cloaks and to assist in fixing their hair and makeup for those who need it. It can be helpful, especially when there are many guests, to provide numbered tickets that can be attached to the cloaks and shawls of each lady, with a duplicate given to the guest. Coffee is sometimes offered in this room or a nearby one for those who would like some.
42. AS THE VISITORS ARE ANNOUNCED BY THE SERVANT, it is not necessary for the lady of the house to advance each time towards the door, but merely to rise from her seat to receive their courtesies and congratulations. If, indeed, the hostess wishes to show particular favour to some peculiarly honoured guests, she may introduce them to others, whose acquaintance she may imagine will be especially suitable and agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of the house to introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the lady performs this office; when it will, of course, be polite for the persons thus introduced to take their seats together for the time being.
42. AS THE SERVANT ANNOUNCES THE GUESTS, the lady of the house doesn't need to get up every time to greet them at the door; she just has to stand up from her seat to acknowledge their greetings and congratulations. If the hostess wants to show special attention to certain honored guests, she can introduce them to others she thinks they would enjoy meeting. It's usually the master of the house who introduces one man to another, but sometimes the lady does this part; when that happens, it's polite for those introduced to sit together for the duration.
The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses, and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the position and qualities of the people around them. The servant, indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive, but, in many instances, mispronounces them; so that it will not be well to follow this information, as if it were an unerring guide. In our opinion, it is a cheerless and depressing custom, although, in thus speaking, we do not allude to the large assemblies of the aristocracy, but to the smaller parties of the middle classes.
The practice of not introducing people is quite popular in many homes, leaving guests to figure out the roles and characteristics of those around them on their own. The servant does announce the names of all the visitors as they come in, but often gets them wrong, so it's not a reliable source of information. We think this is a gloomy and somewhat disheartening tradition, although we’re not referring to the large gatherings of the aristocracy, but rather to the smaller gatherings of the middle classes.
43. A SEPARATE ROOM OR CONVENIENT BUFFET should be appropriated for refreshments, and to which the dancers may retire; and cakes and biscuits, with wine negus, lemonade, and ices, handed round. A supper is also mostly provided at the private parties of the middle classes; and this requires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and supervision. It usually takes place between the first and second parts of the programme of the dances, of which there should be several prettily written or printed copies distributed about the ball-room.
43. A separate room or convenient buffet should be set aside for refreshments, where the dancers can take a break. Cakes and biscuits, along with wine negus, lemonade, and ice treats, should be served. A supper is also typically provided at private parties for the middle class, which demands a lot of attention and oversight from the hostess. This usually happens between the first and second parts of the dance program, and several nicely written or printed copies of the program should be distributed around the ballroom.
In private parties, a lady is not to refuse the invitation of a gentleman to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house only those persons whom she knows to be perfectly respectable and of unblemished character, as well as pretty equal in position; and thus, to decline the offer of any gentleman present, would be a tacit reflection on the master and mistress of the house. It may be mentioned here, more especially for the young who will read this book, that introductions at balls or evening parties, cease with the occasion that calls them forth, no introduction, at these times, giving a gentleman a right to address, afterwards, a lady. She is, consequently, free, next morning, to pass her partner at a ball of the previous evening without the slightest recognition.
At private parties, a woman should not decline a gentleman's invitation to dance unless she is already engaged. The host is expected to invite only those people she knows to be respectable and of good character, as well as similarly positioned. Therefore, turning down a gentleman's offer could reflect poorly on the host and hostess. It's worth noting, especially for the young readers of this book, that introductions at balls or evening parties are only relevant for that specific occasion, meaning no introduction gives a gentleman the right to approach a lady afterward. Consequently, she is free the next morning to pass by her partner from the previous evening's ball without any acknowledgment.
44. THE BALL IS GENERALLY OPENED, that is, the first place in the first quadrille is occupied, by the lady of the house. When anything prevents this, the host will usually lead off the dance with the lady who is either the highest in rank, or the greatest stranger. It will be well for the hostess, even if she be very partial to the amusement, and a graceful dancer, not to participate in it to any great extent, lest her lady guests should have occasion to complain of her monopoly of the gentlemen, and other causes of neglect. A few dances will suffice to show her interest in the entertainment, without unduly trenching on the attention due to her guests. In all its parts a ball should be perfect,—
44. THE BALL USUALLY STARTS with the lady of the house taking the first spot in the first quadrille. If that's not possible, the host generally kicks off the dance with the lady who holds the highest rank or is the biggest outsider. It's best for the hostess, even if she loves dancing and is really good at it, not to participate too much, so her female guests don't feel like she's hogging the attention of the men or causing any other feelings of neglect. A few dances will show her interest in the event without taking too much focus away from her guests. A ball should be flawless in every aspect—
"The music, and the banquet, and the wine;
The garlands, the rose-odours, and the flowers."
"The music, the feast, and the wine;
The wreaths, the scent of roses, and the flowers."
The hostess or host, during the progress of a ball, will courteously accost and chat with their friends, and take care that the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those who wish to dance are provided with partners. A gentle hint from the hostess, conveyed in a quiet ladylike manner, that certain ladies have remained unengaged during several dances, is sure not to be neglected by any gentleman. Thus will be studied the comfort and enjoyment of the guests, and no lady, in leaving the house, will be able to feel the chagrin and disappointment of not having been invited to "stand up" in a dance during the whole of the evening.
The host or hostess, during a ball, will politely greet and chat with their friends, making sure the ladies have seats and that those who want to dance have partners. A subtle suggestion from the hostess, delivered in a graceful way, that certain ladies haven't been asked to dance for several rounds, will surely be picked up by any gentleman. This way, the comfort and enjoyment of the guests will be prioritized, and no lady will leave the event feeling upset or disappointed about not being asked to dance all evening.
45. WHEN ANY OF THE CARRIAGES OF THE GUESTS ARE ANNOUNCED, or the time for their departure arrived, they should make a slight intimation to the hostess, without, however, exciting any observation, that they are about to depart. If this cannot be done, however, without creating too much bustle, it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly without taking their leave. During the course of the week, the hostess will expect to receive from every guest a call, where it is possible, or cards expressing the gratification experienced from her entertainment. This attention is due to every lady for the pains and trouble she has been at, and tends to promote social, kindly feelings.
45. WHEN ANY GUESTS' CARS ARE ANNOUNCED, or it's time for them to leave, they should give a subtle hint to the hostess that they are about to go, without drawing too much attention to it. If this can't be done without causing a fuss, it's better for the guests to quietly leave without saying goodbye. During the week, the hostess will expect a visit from each guest, if possible, or cards thanking her for the enjoyable time. This gesture is respectful to every woman for the effort she put in and helps foster warm, friendly feelings.
46. HAVING THUS DISCOURSED of parties of pleasure, it will be an interesting change to return to the more domestic business of the house, although all the details we have been giving of dinner-parties, balls, and the like, appertain to the department of the mistress. Without a knowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions, a mistress would be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly pleasant meetings which give, as it were, a fillip to life, and make the quiet happy home of an English gentlewoman appear the more delightful and enjoyable. In their proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting the dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables, will be set forth in this work.
46. HAVING DISCUSSED parties and events, it will be a refreshing change to focus on the more everyday aspects of running a household. While we've covered dinner parties, dances, and similar social gatherings, those details fall under the responsibilities of the household manager. Without understanding the etiquette for these occasions, a manager wouldn’t fully enjoy or appreciate the friendly gatherings that add excitement to life and enhance the cozy, happy home of an English woman. In due course, this guide will provide all the necessary information regarding the dishes and presentation for breakfast, lunch, tea, and dinner tables.
47. A FAMILY DINNER AT HOME, compared with either giving or going to a dinner-party, is, of course, of much more frequent occurrence, and many will say, of much greater importance. Both, however, have to be considered with a view to their nicety and enjoyment; and the latter more particularly with reference to economy. These points will be especially noted in the following pages on "Household Cookery." Here we will only say, that for both mistress and servants, as well in large as small households, it will be found, by far, the better plan, to cook and serve the dinner, and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with the same cleanliness, neatness, and scrupulous exactness, whether it be for the mistress herself alone, a small family, or for "company." If this rule be strictly adhered to, all will find themselves increase in managing skill; whilst a knowledge of their daily duties will become familiar, and enable them to meet difficult occasions with ease, and overcome any amount of obstacles.
47. A FAMILY DINNER AT HOME, compared to either hosting or attending a dinner party, happens much more often and many would say it’s more important. Both types of gatherings should be considered for their quality and enjoyment, especially the latter in terms of cost-effectiveness. These aspects will be highlighted in the following pages on "Household Cookery." Here, we will just say that for both the host and the staff, whether in large or small households, it’s much better to prepare and serve dinner and set the tablecloth and sideboard with the same cleanliness, neatness, and careful attention, whether it’s just for the host, a small family, or for guests. If this rule is strictly followed, everyone will find their management skills improving, while a solid understanding of their daily tasks will become second nature, allowing them to handle challenging situations with ease and overcome various obstacles.
48. OF THE MANNER OF PASSING EVENINGS AT HOME, there is none pleasanter than in such recreative enjoyments as those which relax the mind from its severer duties, whilst they stimulate it with a gentle delight. Where there are young people forming a part of the evening circle, interesting and agreeable pastime should especially be promoted. It is of incalculable benefit to them that their homes should possess all the attractions of healthful amusement, comfort, and happiness; for if they do not find pleasure there, they will seek it elsewhere. It ought, therefore, to enter into the domestic policy of every parent, to make her children feel that home is the happiest place in the world; that to imbue them with this delicious home-feeling is one of the choicest gifts a parent can bestow.
48. ABOUT HOW TO SPEND EVENINGS AT HOME, there's nothing better than engaging in activities that help relax the mind from serious responsibilities while also providing a gentle enjoyment. When young people are part of the evening gathering, it's especially important to encourage entertaining and enjoyable activities. It's incredibly beneficial for them to have homes filled with healthy fun, comfort, and happiness; if they don't find joy there, they'll look for it elsewhere. Therefore, every parent's goal should be to make their children feel that home is the happiest place in the world; instilling this wonderful sense of home in them is one of the best gifts a parent can give.
Light or fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's recreation for the ladies of the household, and this may be varied by an occasional game at chess or backgammon. It has often been remarked, too, that nothing is more delightful to the feminine members of a family, than the reading aloud of some good standard work or amusing publication. A knowledge of polite literature may be thus obtained by the whole family, especially if the reader is able and willing to explain the more difficult passages of the book, and expatiate on the wisdom and beauties it may contain. This plan, in a great measure, realizes the advice of Lord Bacon, who says, "Read not to contradict and refute, nor to believe and take for granted, nor to find talk and discourse, but to weigh and consider."
Light or fancy needlework often makes up part of the evening entertainment for the women of the household, and this can be mixed up with an occasional game of chess or backgammon. It’s often noted that nothing pleases the female members of a family more than having someone read aloud from a good classic or entertaining publication. This way, the whole family can gain an appreciation for good literature, especially if the reader is skilled and willing to explain the more challenging sections of the book and elaborate on the insights and beauty it holds. This approach largely aligns with Lord Bacon's advice, who says, "Read not to contradict and refute, nor to believe and take for granted, nor to find talk and discourse, but to weigh and consider."
49. IN RETIRING FOR THE NIGHT, it is well to remember that early rising is almost impossible, if late going to bed be the order, or rather disorder, of the house. The younger members of a family should go early and at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as possible after a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the mistress of a house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, see that all is right with respect to the lights and fires below; and no servants should, on any account, be allowed to remain up after the heads of the house have retired.
49. WHEN GETTING READY FOR BED, it's important to remember that waking up early is nearly impossible if going to bed late is the norm. Younger family members should go to bed early and at consistent times, and household staff should turn in soon after a reasonable hour. Either the master or mistress of the house should, after everyone has gone to their separate rooms, ensure that everything is in order with the lights and fires downstairs; no staff should be allowed to stay up after the heads of the house have gone to bed.
50. HAVING THUS GONE FROM EARLY RISING TO EARLY RETIRING, there remain only now to be considered a few special positions respecting which the mistress of the house will be glad to receive some specific information.
50. NOW THAT WE'VE MOVED FROM WAKING UP EARLY TO GOING TO BED EARLY, there are just a few specific topics that the lady of the house will be eager to learn more about.
51. WHEN A MISTRESS TAKES A HOUSE in a new locality, it will be etiquette for her to wait until the older inhabitants of the neighbourhood call upon her; thus evincing a desire, on their part, to become acquainted with the new comer. It may be, that the mistress will desire an intimate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours; but it is to be specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony, friendship, or condolence, should be punctiliously returned.
51. WHEN A WOMAN MOVES INTO A NEW NEIGHBORHOOD, it’s polite for her to wait for the long-time residents to come and visit her; this shows that they want to get to know the newcomer. She might only want to be close with a few of her neighbors, but it’s important to remember that all visits, whether formal, friendly, or sympathetic, should be carefully acknowledged in return.
52. YOU MAY PERHAPS HAVE BEEN FAVOURED with letters of introduction from some of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to which you have just come. In this case inclose the letter of introduction in an envelope with your card. Then, if the person, to whom it is addressed, calls in the course of a few days, the visit should be returned by you within the week, if possible. Any breach of etiquette, in this respect, will not readily be excused.
52. YOU MIGHT HAVE RECEIVED letters of introduction from some of your friends to people living in the area you’ve just moved to. If so, put the letter of introduction in an envelope along with your card. Then, if the person to whom it’s addressed visits you within a few days, you should return the visit within the week, if possible. Any lapse in etiquette on this matter won't be easily forgiven.
In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above circumstances, nothing but necessity should prevent you from accepting the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct reason why you cannot accept, let it be stated frankly and plainly, for politeness and truthfulness should be ever allied. An opportunity should, also, be taken to call in the course of a day or two, in order to politely express your regret and disappointment at not having been able to avail yourself of their kindness.
If you're invited to dinner under those circumstances, only a true necessity should keep you from accepting the invitation. However, if you have a specific reason for not being able to go, it should be communicated clearly and honestly, as politeness and honesty should always go hand in hand. You should also take the opportunity to visit within a day or two to politely express your regret and disappointment for not being able to accept their kind offer.
53. IN GIVING A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION, it should always be handed to your friend, unsealed. Courtesy dictates this, as the person whom you are introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what manner he or she was spoken of. Should you receive a letter from a friend, introducing to you any person known to and esteemed by the writer, the letter should be immediately acknowledged, and your willingness expressed to do all in your power to carry out his or her wishes.
53. WHEN GIVING A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION, always present it to your friend unsealed. It's a matter of courtesy, as the person you are introducing might want to see how they were described. If you receive a letter from a friend introducing someone they know and respect, you should acknowledge the letter right away and express your willingness to do everything you can to fulfill their wishes.
54. SUCH ARE THE ONEROUS DUTIES which enter into the position of the mistress of a house, and such are, happily, with a slight but continued attention, of by no means difficult performance. She ought always to remember that she is the first and the last, the Alpha and the Omega in the government of her establishment; and that it is by her conduct that its whole internal policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person of far more importance in a community than she usually thinks she is. On her pattern her daughters model themselves; by her counsels they are directed; through her virtues all are honoured;—"her children rise up and call her blessed; her husband, also, and he praiseth her." Therefore, let each mistress always remember her responsible position, never approving a mean action, nor speaking an unrefined word. Let her conduct be such that her inferiors may respect her, and such as an honourable and right-minded man may look for in his wife and the mother of his children. Let her think of the many compliments and the sincere homage that have been paid to her sex by the greatest philosophers and writers, both in ancient and modern times. Let her not forget that she has to show herself worthy of Campbell's compliment when he said,—
54. SUCH ARE THE CHALLENGING RESPONSIBILITIES that come with being the head of a household, and fortunately, with a little ongoing attention, they are quite manageable. She should always remember that she is both the beginning and the end, the Alpha and the Omega in managing her home; and that her actions determine its overall internal affairs. She is, therefore, far more significant in a community than she usually realizes. Her daughters take their cues from her; they are guided by her advice; and through her virtues, everyone holds her in high regard—“her children rise up and call her blessed; her husband also, and he praises her.” Therefore, let each head of the household always remember her important role, never condoning anything lowly, nor using uncivil language. Her behavior should command respect from her subordinates, and reflect what an honorable and principled man would expect in his wife and the mother of his children. She should consider the many praises and sincere accolades that have been offered to her gender by notable philosophers and writers throughout history, both ancient and modern. She must not forget to prove herself worthy of Campbell's praise when he said,—
"The world was sad! the garden was a wild!
And man the hermit sigh'd, till woman smiled."
"The world was gloomy! The garden was overgrown!
And the hermit sighed, until woman smiled."
Let her prove herself, then, the happy companion of man, and able to take unto herself the praises of the pious prelate, Jeremy Taylor, who says,—"A good wife is Heaven's last best gift to man,—his angel and minister of graces innumerable,—his gem of many virtues,—his casket of jewels—her voice is sweet music—her smiles his brightest day;—her kiss, the guardian of his innocence;—her arms, the pale of his safety, the balm of his health, the balsam of his life;—her industry, his surest wealth;—her economy, his safest steward;—her lips, his faithful counsellors;—her bosom, the softest pillow of his cares; and her prayers, the ablest advocates of Heaven's blessings on his head."
Let her prove herself, then, the joyful companion of man, and worthy of the praise from the devout prelate, Jeremy Taylor, who says, "A good wife is Heaven's ultimate gift to man—his angel and source of countless graces—his symbol of many virtues—his treasure chest of jewels—her voice is sweet music—her smiles are his brightest days—her kiss protects his innocence—her arms are his safety, the cure for his health, the essence of his life—her hard work is his surest wealth—her thrift is his safest manager—her words are his loyal advisors—her embrace is the softest cushion for his worries; and her prayers are the strongest advocates for Heaven's blessings on him."
Cherishing, then, in her breast the respected utterances of the good and the great, let the mistress of every house rise to the responsibility of its management; so that, in doing her duty to all around her, she may receive the genuine reward of respect, love, and affection!
Cherishing, then, in her heart the wise words of the good and the great, let the head of every household step up to the responsibility of managing it; so that, by fulfilling her duties to those around her, she may receive the true rewards of respect, love, and affection!
Note.—Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting, and it is well known that "three removes are as good (or bad, rather) as a fire." Nevertheless, it being quite evident that we must, in these days at least, live in houses, and are sometimes obliged to change our residences, it is well to consider some of the conditions which will add to, or diminish, the convenience and comfort of our homes.
Note.—Many homeowners have gone through the stress of searching for a place to live, and it's widely recognized that "moving three times is as disruptive (or worse) as a fire." However, since it’s clear that we need to live in houses these days, and sometimes have to move, it’s good to think about the factors that can improve or lessen the convenience and comfort of our homes.
Although the choice of a house must be dependent on so many different circumstances with different people, that to give any specific directions on this head would be impossible and useless; yet it will be advantageous, perhaps, to many, if we point out some of those general features as to locality, soil, aspect, &c., to which the attention of all house-takers should be carefully directed.
Although choosing a house depends on various circumstances that differ for each person, providing specific guidance on this matter would be impossible and unhelpful. However, it may be beneficial for many if we highlight some general features regarding location, soil, orientation, etc., that all house hunters should pay close attention to.
Regarding the locality, we may say, speaking now more particularly of a town house, that it is very important to the health and comfort of a family, that the neighbourhood of all factories of any kind, producing unwholesome effluvia or smells, should be strictly avoided. Neither is it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy trade is carried on, as it is unpleasant to the feelings, and tends to increase any existing irritation of the system.
When it comes to location, let's talk specifically about a town house. It's crucial for a family's health and comfort to steer clear of any nearby factories that produce unhealthy fumes or odors. It's also not a good idea to live right next to a noisy business, as it can be bothersome and worsen any existing stress or irritation.
Referring to soils; it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is superior to any other, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it is consequently drier and less damp than clay, upon which water rests a far longer time. A clay country, too, is not so pleasant for walking exercise as one in which gravel predominates.
When it comes to soils, it’s generally accepted that gravel soil is better than any other type because rain drains through it quickly, making it drier and less damp than clay, where water sits for much longer. A clay area is also not as pleasant for walking and exercising as one where gravel is more common.
The aspect of the house should be well considered, and it should be borne in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house, the healthier is the habitation. The close, fetid smell which assails one on entering a narrow court, or street, in towns, is to be assigned to the want of light, and, consequently, air. A house with a south or south-west aspect, is lighter, warmer, drier, and consequently more healthy, than one facing the north or north-east.
The design of the house should be carefully thought out, and it’s important to remember that the more sunlight enters the house, the healthier the living space is. The stuffy, unpleasant smell you encounter when entering a narrow alley or street in towns is due to a lack of light and, therefore, air. A house with a southern or southwestern orientation is brighter, warmer, drier, and, as a result, healthier than one that faces north or northeast.
Great advances have been made, during the last few years, in the principles of sanitary knowledge, and one most essential point to be observed in reference to a house, is its "drainage," as it has been proved in an endless number of cases, that bad or defective drainage is as certain to destroy health as the taking of poisons. This arises from its injuriously affecting the atmosphere; thus rendering the air we breathe unwholesome and deleterious. Let it be borne in mind, then, that unless a house is effectually drained, the health of its inhabitants is sure to suffer; and they will be susceptible of ague, rheumatism, diarrhoea, fevers, and cholera.
Significant progress has been made in recent years regarding sanitary knowledge, and one crucial aspect to consider about a house is its "drainage." It's been proven in countless cases that poor or faulty drainage can be just as harmful to health as ingesting toxins. This issue arises because it negatively impacts the atmosphere, making the air we breathe unhealthy and hazardous. Therefore, it's important to remember that if a house isn't properly drained, the health of its residents will definitely be at risk, leaving them vulnerable to illnesses like chills, rheumatism, diarrhea, fevers, and cholera.
We now come to an all-important point,—that of the water supply. The value of this necessary article has also been lately more and more recognized in connection with the question of health and life; and most houses are well supplied with every convenience connected with water. Let it, however, be well understood, that no house, however suitable in other respects, can be desirable, if this grand means of health and comfort is, in the slightest degree, scarce or impure. No caution can be too great to see that it is pure and good, as well as plentiful; for, knowing, as we do, that not a single part of our daily food is prepared without it, the importance of its influence on the health of the inmates of a house cannot be over-rated.
We now come to a crucial point—the water supply. The importance of this essential resource has been increasingly recognized lately in relation to health and well-being, and most homes are equipped with all the conveniences involving water. However, it should be clear that no house, regardless of its other qualities, can be considered desirable if this vital resource is in any way limited or contaminated. It's imperative to ensure that the water is clean, safe, and abundant, because, as we know, not a single part of our daily meals is prepared without it, so the impact of water on the health of the people living in a house can’t be overstated.
Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. In a general way, enough of air is admitted by the cracks round the doors and windows; but if this be not the case, the chimney will smoke; and other plans, such as the placing of a plate of finely-perforated zinc in the upper part of the window, must be used. Cold air should never be admitted under the doors, or at the bottom of a room, unless it be close to the fire or stove; for it will flow along the floor towards the fireplace, and thus leave the foul air in the upper part of the room, unpurified, cooling, at the same time, unpleasantly and injuriously, the feet and legs of the inmates.
Ventilation is another important aspect that shouldn’t be ignored. Generally, enough air comes in through the gaps around doors and windows; but if that’s not happening, the chimney will smoke. Other solutions, like installing a plate of finely perforated zinc at the top of the window, should be considered. Cold air should never enter under the doors or at the bottom of a room unless it's close to the fire or stove; otherwise, it will flow along the floor towards the fireplace and leave stale air in the upper part of the room, making it uncomfortable and harmful while also cooling down the feet and legs of the people inside.
The rent of a house, it has been said, should not exceed one-eighth of the whole income of its occupier; and, as a general rule, we are disposed to assent to this estimate, although there may be many circumstances which would not admit of its being considered infallible.
The rent of a house, as people say, shouldn't be more than one-eighth of the total income of the person living there; and generally, we tend to agree with this estimate, even though there are many factors that might prevent it from being seen as a foolproof rule.
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CHAPTER II.
THE HOUSEKEEPER.
55. AS SECOND IN COMMAND IN THE HOUSE, except in large establishments, where there is a house steward, the housekeeper must consider herself as the immediate representative of her mistress, and bring, to the management of the household, all those qualities of honesty, industry, and vigilance, in the same degree as if she were at the head of her own family. Constantly on the watch to detect any wrong-doing on the part of any of the domestics, she will overlook all that goes on in the house, and will see that every department is thoroughly attended to, and that the servants are comfortable, at the same time that their various duties are properly performed.
55. AS SECOND IN COMMAND IN THE HOUSE, except in larger homes where there is a house steward, the housekeeper should see herself as the direct representative of her mistress and bring all the qualities of honesty, hard work, and attentiveness to managing the household, just as if she were in charge of her own family. Always on the lookout to spot any wrongdoing by the staff, she will supervise everything that happens in the house, ensuring that every area is well taken care of and that the servants are comfortable while also making sure that their specific tasks are completed properly.
Cleanliness, punctuality, order, and method, are essentials in the character of a good housekeeper. Without the first, no household can be said to be well managed. The second is equally all-important; for those who are under the housekeeper will take their "cue" from her; and in the same proportion as punctuality governs her movements, so will it theirs. Order, again, is indispensable; for by it we wish to be understood that "there should be a place for everything, and everything in its place." Method, too, is most necessary; for when the work is properly contrived, and each part arranged in regular succession, it will be done more quickly and more effectually.
Cleanliness, being on time, organization, and a methodical approach are essential qualities of a good housekeeper. Without cleanliness, no household can be considered well-managed. Being on time is equally vital; those who work under the housekeeper will take their cues from her, and the more punctual she is, the more punctual they will be as well. Organization is also crucial; it means that there should be a place for everything, and everything should be in its place. A methodical approach is important too; when the work is planned properly and each task is arranged in a logical order, it will be completed more quickly and effectively.
56. A NECESSARY QUALIFICATION FOR A HOUSEKEEPER is, that she should thoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her books an accurate registry of all sums paid for any and every purpose, all the current expenses of the house, tradesmen's bills, and other extraneous matter. As we have mentioned under the head of the Mistress (see 16), a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically balanced, and examined by the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both employer and employed, than this arrangement. "Short reckonings make long friends," stands good in this case, as in others.
56. A NECESSARY QUALIFICATION FOR A HOUSEKEEPER is that she should thoroughly understand finances. She will need to keep an accurate record of all sums paid for various purposes, the ongoing expenses of the household, bills from tradespeople, and other related matters. As we’ve mentioned under the section for the Mistress (see 16), a housekeeper’s accounts should be regularly balanced and reviewed by the head of the house. Nothing contributes more to the satisfaction of both the employer and the employee than this arrangement. "Short reckonings make long friends" applies here just as it does in other situations.
It will be found an excellent plan to take an account of every article which comes into the house connected with housekeeping, and is not paid for at the time. The book containing these entries can then be compared with the bills sent in by the various tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into and set right. An intelligent housekeeper will, by this means, too, be better able to judge of the average consumption of each article by the household; and if that quantity be, at any time, exceeded, the cause may be discovered and rectified, if it proceed from waste or carelessness.
It’s a great idea to keep track of every item related to managing the household that comes in and isn’t paid for immediately. The record book with these entries can then be matched up with the bills from different suppliers, allowing for any mistakes to be checked and corrected. A smart housekeeper can also use this method to better understand the average usage of each item in the household; if that amount is ever surpassed, the reason can be identified and fixed, especially if it’s due to waste or negligence.
57. ALTHOUGH IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE COOK, the housekeeper does not generally much interfere, yet it is necessary that she should possess a good knowledge of the culinary art, as, in many instances, it may be requisite for her to take the superintendence of the kitchen. As a rule, it may be stated, that the housekeeper, in those establishments where there is no house steward or man cook, undertakes the preparation of the confectionary, attends to the preserving and pickling of fruits and vegetables; and, in a general way, to the more difficult branches of the art of cookery.
57. EVEN THOUGH THE HOUSEKEEPER doesn't usually get involved in the kitchen, it's important for her to have a good understanding of cooking, as she may need to oversee the kitchen at times. Generally, in homes without a steward or male cook, the housekeeper handles the preparation of desserts, takes care of preserving and pickling fruits and vegetables, and manages the more challenging aspects of cooking.
Much of these arrangements will depend, however, on the qualifications of the cook; for instance, if she be an able artiste, there will be but little necessity for the housekeeper to interfere, except in the already noticed articles of confectionary, &c. On the contrary, if the cook be not so clever an adept in her art, then it will be requisite for the housekeeper to give more of her attention to the business of the kitchen, than in the former case. It will be one of the duties of the housekeeper to attend to the marketing, in the absence of either a house steward or man cook.
Much of these arrangements will depend on the qualifications of the cook. For example, if she is a skilled artist, there will be little need for the housekeeper to interfere, except in the previously mentioned areas of pastries, etc. On the other hand, if the cook is not as skilled in her craft, then the housekeeper will need to pay more attention to the kitchen operations than in the previous case. One of the housekeeper's duties will be to handle the shopping, in the absence of either a house steward or male cook.
58. THE DAILY DUTIES OF A HOUSEKEEPER are regulated, in a great measure, by the extent of the establishment she superintends. She should, however, rise early, and see that all the domestics are duly performing their work, and that everything is progressing satisfactorily for the preparation of the breakfast for the household and family. After breakfast, which, in large establishments, she will take in the "housekeeper's room" with the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, and where they will be waited on by the still-room maid, she will, on various days set apart for each purpose, carefully examine the household linen, with a view to its being repaired, or to a further quantity being put in hand to be made; she will also see that the furniture throughout the house is well rubbed and polished; and will, besides, attend to all the necessary details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen.
58. THE DAILY DUTIES OF A HOUSEKEEPER are largely determined by the size of the household she manages. She should, however, get up early to ensure that all the staff are doing their jobs properly and that everything is on track for breakfast preparation. After breakfast, which in large households she will have in the "housekeeper's room" with the lady’s maid, butler, and valet, where they will be served by the still-room maid, she will, on specific days designated for each task, carefully check the household linen to see if it needs repairs or if more needs to be made; she will also ensure that the furniture throughout the house is well cleaned and polished, and will take care of all the necessary details regarding shopping and ordering supplies from the vendors.
The housekeeper's room is generally made use of by the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, who take there their breakfast, tea, and supper. The lady's-maid will also use this apartment as a sitting-room, when not engaged with her lady, or with some other duties, which would call her elsewhere. In different establishments, according to their size and the rank of the family, different rules of course prevail. For instance, in the mansions of those of very high rank, and where there is a house steward, there are two distinct tables kept, one in the steward's room for the principal members of the household, the other in the servants' hall, for the other domestics. At the steward's dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside; and here, also, are present the lady's-maid, butler, valet, and head gardener. Should any visitors be staying with the family, their servants, generally the valet and lady's-maid, will be admitted to the steward's table.
The housekeeper's room is usually used by the lady's maid, butler, and valet, who have their breakfast, tea, and dinner there. The lady’s maid also uses this room as a sitting area when she’s not busy with her lady or other duties that take her elsewhere. Different households have different rules based on their size and the family's rank. For example, in the homes of very high-ranking individuals, where there is a house steward, two separate dining areas are maintained: one in the steward's room for the main members of the household and another in the servants' hall for the other staff. At the steward's dinner table, the steward and housekeeper preside, along with the lady's maid, butler, valet, and head gardener. If any guests are staying with the family, their staff—usually the valet and lady's maid—will also be allowed at the steward's table.
59. AFTER DINNER, the housekeeper, having seen that all the members of the establishment have regularly returned to their various duties, and that all the departments of the household are in proper working order, will have many important matters claiming her attention. She will, possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some article of confectionary, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processes of the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange, ice-creams to make; and all these employments call for no ordinary degree of care, taste, and attention.
59. AFTER DINNER, the housekeeper, having ensured that all the staff have returned to their respective duties and that every part of the household is running smoothly, will have many important tasks demanding her attention. She may have to finalize some dessert or be busy with the more complicated tasks in the still-room. There might also be the dessert to prepare, ice creams to make; and all these tasks require a significant amount of care, taste, and attention.
The still-room was formerly much more in vogue than at present; for in days of "auld lang syne," the still was in constant requisition for the supply of sweet-flavoured waters for the purposes of cookery, scents and aromatic substances used in the preparation of the toilet, and cordials in cases of accidents and illness. There are some establishments, however, in which distillation is still carried on, and in these, the still-room maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way, however, this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper. For the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the breakfast-table, and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper's room (see 58). A still-room maid may learn a very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connection with the housekeeper, and if she be active and intelligent, may soon fit herself for a better position in the household.
The still-room used to be way more popular than it is now; back in the days of "auld lang syne," the still was always in use to make flavored waters for cooking, scents and aromatic substances for personal care, and cordials for emergencies and sickness. However, there are still some places where distillation happens, and in those, the still-room maid has her traditional tasks to do. Generally, though, this domestic worker is primarily involved with the housekeeper. She lights the fire, cleans her room, sets the breakfast table, and serves meals in the housekeeper's room (see 58). A still-room maid can gain a lot of valuable knowledge from working closely with the housekeeper, and if she is proactive and smart, she can quickly prepare herself for a better role in the household.
60. IN THE EVENING, the housekeeper will often busy herself with the necessary preparations for the next day's duties. Numberless small, but still important arrangements, will have to be made, so that everything may move smoothly. At times, perhaps, attention will have to be paid to the breaking of lump-sugar, the stoning of raisins, the washing, cleansing, and drying of currants, &c. The evening, too, is the best time for setting right her account of the expenditure, and duly writing a statement of moneys received and paid, and also for making memoranda of any articles she may require for her storeroom or other departments.
60. IN THE EVENING, the housekeeper often keeps herself busy with the necessary preparations for the next day's tasks. Numerous small, but still important arrangements need to be made, so that everything runs smoothly. Sometimes, she might need to focus on breaking lump sugar, pitting raisins, washing, cleaning, and drying currants, etc. The evening is also the best time to organize her account of expenses, accurately recording the money received and spent, and making notes of any items she might need for her storeroom or other areas.
Periodically, at some convenient time,—for instance, quarterly or half-yearly, it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory of everything she has under her care, and compare this with the lists of a former period; she will then be able to furnish a statement, if necessary, of the articles which, on account of time, breakage, loss, or other causes, it has been necessary to replace or replenish.
Every now and then, at a convenient time—like every three or six months—it’s a good idea for the housekeeper to take stock of everything she manages and compare it with previous inventories. This way, she can provide a report, if needed, on items that have needed to be replaced or restocked due to wear and tear, breakage, loss, or other reasons.
61. IN CONCLUDING THESE REMARKS on the duties of the housekeeper, we will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which attaches to her position. Like "Caesar's wife," she should be "above suspicion," and her honesty and sobriety unquestionable; for there are many temptations to which she is exposed. In a physical point of view, a housekeeper should be healthy and strong, and be particularly clean in her person, and her hands, although they may show a degree of roughness, from the nature of some of her employments, yet should have a nice inviting appearance. In her dealings with the various tradesmen, and in her behaviour to the domestics under her, the demeanour and conduct of the housekeeper should be such as, in neither case, to diminish, by an undue familiarity, her authority or influence.
61. IN CONCLUDING THESE REMARKS on the duties of the housekeeper, we will briefly mention the significant responsibility that comes with her role. Like "Caesar's wife," she should be "above suspicion," and her honesty and sobriety should be unquestionable; she faces many temptations. From a physical standpoint, a housekeeper should be healthy and strong, and particularly clean in her appearance. Her hands may have some roughness due to the nature of her work, but they should still look nice and inviting. In her interactions with various tradespeople and her treatment of the domestic staff, the housekeeper's demeanor and conduct should not undermine her authority or influence through undue familiarity.
Note.—It will be useful for the mistress and housekeeper to know the best seasons for various occupations connected with Household Management; and we, accordingly, subjoin a few hints which we think will prove valuable.
Note.—It will be helpful for the woman in charge and the housekeeper to know the best times for different tasks related to managing the household; therefore, we’ve included a few tips that we believe will be useful.
As, in the winter months, servants have much more to do, in consequence of the necessity there is to attend to the number of fires throughout the household, not much more than the ordinary every-day work can be attempted.
As, in the winter months, servants have a lot more to do because they need to take care of the many fires in the house, not much more than the usual daily work can be managed.
In the summer, and when the absence of fires gives the domestics more leisure, then any extra work that is required, can be more easily performed.
In the summer, when there are no fires to tend to, the staff has more free time, making it easier to handle any additional work that needs to be done.
The spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning, and removing all the dust and dirt, which will necessarily, with the best of housewives, accumulate during the winter months, from the smoke of the coal, oil, gas, &c. This season is also well adapted for washing and bleaching linen, &c., as, the weather, not being then too hot for the exertions necessary in washing counterpanes, blankets, and heavy things in general, the work is better and more easily done than in the intense heats of July, which month some recommend for these purposes. Winter curtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white ones; and furs and woollen cloths also carefully laid by. The former should be well shaken and brushed, and then pinned upon paper or linen, with camphor to preserve them from the moths. Furs, &c., will be preserved in the same way. Included, under the general description of house-cleaning, must be understood, turning out all the nooks and corners of drawers, cupboards, lumber-rooms, lofts, &c., with a view of getting rid of all unnecessary articles, which only create dirt and attract vermin; sweeping of chimneys, taking up carpets, painting and whitewashing the kitchen and offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generally speaking, the house putting on, with the approaching summer, a bright appearance, and a new face, in unison with nature. Oranges now should be preserved, and orange wine made.
Spring is the usual time for spring cleaning, getting rid of all the dust and dirt that naturally builds up during the winter months from coal, oil, gas, and so on, even for the best housekeepers. This season is also great for washing and bleaching linens since the weather isn’t too hot for the hard work of cleaning bedspreads, blankets, and heavier items; it’s much easier than dealing with the sweltering heat of July, which some suggest for these tasks. Winter curtains should be taken down and replaced with light summer ones, and furs and woolen clothes should be carefully stored away. The furs should be well shaken and brushed, then pinned to paper or linen with camphor to keep moths away. Furs and similar items should be stored in the same way. Spring cleaning also includes clearing out the nooks and crannies of drawers, cupboards, storage rooms, attics, etc., to get rid of all unnecessary items that just cause dirt and attract pests. This includes sweeping chimneys, taking up carpets, painting and whitewashing the kitchen and other areas, putting up wallpaper when needed, and overall making the house look bright and fresh for the upcoming summer, in harmony with nature. Oranges should now be preserved, and orange wine made.
The summer will be found, as we have mentioned above, in consequence of the diminution of labour for the domestics, the best period for examining and repairing household linen, and for "putting to rights" all those articles which have received a large share of wear and tear during the dark winter days. In direct reference to this matter, we may here remark, that sheets should be turned "sides to middle" before they are allowed to get very thin. Otherwise, patching, which is uneconomical from the time it consumes, and is unsightly in point of appearance, will have to be resorted to. In June and July, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, and other summer fruits, should be preserved, and jams and jellies made. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchup should be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approaching perfection for this purpose. Mixed pickles may also be now made, and it will be found a good plan to have ready a jar of pickle-juice (for the making of which all information will be given in future pages), into which to put occasionally some young French beans, cauliflowers, &c.
Summer, as we mentioned earlier, is the best time for checking and fixing household linens because domestic work slows down. It’s also the perfect opportunity to tidy up all those items that have seen a lot of wear and tear during the long winter months. In relation to this, it’s important to flip sheets "sides to middle" before they get too thin. Otherwise, you’ll end up patching them, which is time-consuming and not great to look at. In June and July, you should preserve gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, and other summer fruits, and make jams and jellies. Also, in July, it’s the time to make walnut ketchup, as the green walnuts will be nearly perfect for it. You can also make mixed pickles now, and it’s a good idea to have a jar of pickle juice ready (all the information on how to make it will be provided in later pages) to occasionally add some young French beans, cauliflowers, etc.
In the early autumn, plums of various kinds are to be bottled and preserved, and jams and jellies made. A little later, tomato sauce, a most useful article to have by you, may be prepared; a supply of apples laid in, if you have a place to keep them, as also a few keeping pears and filberts. Endeavour to keep also a large vegetable marrow,—it will be found delicious in the winter.
In early autumn, it’s time to bottle and preserve different types of plums, and make jams and jellies. A bit later, you can prepare tomato sauce, which is really useful to have on hand. It's also a good idea to stock up on apples if you have space to store them, along with some pears that keep well and filberts. Try to also keep a large vegetable marrow; it will taste great in the winter.
In October and November, it will be necessary to prepare for the cold weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away, the fireplaces, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the House put in a thorough state of repair, so that no "loose tile" may, at a future day, interfere with your comfort, and extract something considerable from your pocket.
In October and November, it will be important to get ready for the cold weather and prepare winter clothing for everyone in the family. The white summer curtains will be carefully stored away, the fireplaces, grates, and chimneys checked, and the house will be put into good repair so that no "loose tile" will, in the future, disrupt your comfort and cost you a significant amount of money.
In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the creature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet old Christmas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder; and in stoning the plums, washing the currants, cutting the citron, beating the eggs, and MIXING THE PUDDING, a housewife is not unworthily greeting the genial season of all good things.
In December, the main responsibility at home is getting ready to provide for the comforts of our loved ones, so we can welcome Christmas with a cheerful spirit, a satisfied mind, and plenty of food; and while pitting the plums, washing the currants, chopping the citron, whipping the eggs, and MIXING THE PUDDING, a housewife is truly celebrating this joyful season of abundance.
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CHAPTER III.
ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.
62. "THE DISTRIBUTION OF A KITCHEN," says Count Rumford, the celebrated philosopher and physician, who wrote so learnedly on all subjects connected with domestic economy and architecture, "must always depend so much on local circumstances, that general rules can hardly be given respecting it; the principles, however, on which this distribution ought, in all cases, to be made, are simple and easy to be understood," and, in his estimation, these resolve themselves into symmetry of proportion in the building and convenience to the cook. The requisites of a good kitchen, however, demand something more special than is here pointed out. It must be remembered that it is the great laboratory of every household, and that much of the "weal or woe," as far as regards bodily health, depends upon the nature of the preparations concocted within its walls. A good kitchen, therefore, should be erected with a view to the following particulars. 1. Convenience of distribution in its parts, with largeness of dimension. 2. Excellence of light, height of ceiling, and good ventilation. 3. Easiness of access, without passing through the house. 4. Sufficiently remote from the principal apartments of the house, that the members, visitors, or guests of the family, may not perceive the odour incident to cooking, or hear the noise of culinary operations. 5. Plenty of fuel and water, which, with the scullery, pantry, and storeroom, should be so near it, as to offer the smallest possible trouble in reaching them.
62. "THE LAYOUT OF A KITCHEN," says Count Rumford, the famous philosopher and physician known for his extensive writings on domestic economy and architecture, "depends a lot on local conditions, so it's hard to give general rules for it; however, the basic principles behind this layout should always focus on balance in the design and the cook's convenience." That said, a good kitchen requires more specific features than just those mentioned. It's crucial to remember that it's the main working space of every household, and the quality of the meals prepared there greatly influences overall health. Therefore, a good kitchen should be designed with the following in mind: 1. Convenient arrangement of its sections, with ample space. 2. Good natural light, high ceilings, and proper ventilation. 3. Easy access without needing to go through the rest of the house. 4. Positioned far enough from the main living areas so that family members, visitors, or guests aren’t bothered by cooking smells or sounds. 5. Enough fuel and water should be available nearby, along with the scullery, pantry, and storeroom, to minimize the effort needed to access them.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
The kitchens of the Middle Ages, in England, are said to have been constructed after the fashion of those of the Romans. They were generally octagonal, with several fireplaces, but no chimneys; neither was there any wood admitted into the building. The accompanying cut, fig. 1, represents the turret which was erected on the top of the conical roof of the kitchen at Glastonbury Abbey, and which was perforated with holes to allow the smoke of the fire, as well as the steam from cooking, to escape. Some kitchens had funnels or vents below the eaves to let out the steam, which was sometimes considerable, as the Anglo-Saxons used their meat chiefly in a boiled state. From this circumstance, some of their large kitchens had four ranges, comprising a boiling-place for small boiled meats, and a boiling-house for the great boiler. In private houses the culinary arrangements were no doubt different; for Du Cange mentions a little kitchen with a chamber, even in a solarium, or upper floor.
The kitchens of medieval England were reportedly designed similarly to those used by the Romans. They were typically octagonal and featured several fireplaces, but lacked chimneys. Additionally, no wood was incorporated into the structure. The accompanying illustration, fig. 1, shows the turret that was placed on top of the conical roof of the kitchen at Glastonbury Abbey; this turret had openings to let the smoke from the fire and the steam from cooking escape. Some kitchens included funnels or vents below the eaves to release the steam, which could be quite significant since the Anglo-Saxons mostly prepared their meat by boiling. Because of this, some large kitchens had four cooking areas: one for smaller boiled meats and a separate space for the large boiler. In private homes, the cooking setups were likely different; Du Cange even mentions a small kitchen with a chamber located in a solarium, or upper floor.
63. THE SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES has frequently been an object of poetical admiration, and it delights the imagination to picture men living upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth, and desiring no other beverages to slake their thirst, but such as fountains and rivers supply. Thus we are told, that the ancient inhabitants of Argos lived principally on pears; that the Arcadians revelled in acorns, and the Athenians in figs. This, of course, was in the golden age, before ploughing began, and when mankind enjoyed all kinds of plenty without having to earn their bread "by the sweat of their brow." This delightful period, however, could not last for ever, and the earth became barren, and continued unfruitful till Ceres came and taught the art of sowing, with several other useful inventions. The first whom she taught to till the ground was Triptolemus, who communicated his instructions to his countrymen the Athenians. Thence the art was carried into Achaia, and thence into Arcadia. Barley was the first grain that was used, and the invention of bread-making is ascribed to Pan.
63. THE SIMPLICITY OF THE PRIMITIVE AGES has often been admired in poetry, and it’s fascinating to imagine people living off the fruits that grow naturally from the earth, needing no other drinks than what fountains and rivers provide. We hear that the ancient inhabitants of Argos mainly ate pears, the Arcadians enjoyed acorns, and the Athenians feasted on figs. This was, of course, during the golden age, before farming began, when humans experienced plenty without having to earn their food "by the sweat of their brow." However, this wonderful time couldn't last forever, and the earth became barren and stayed unproductive until Ceres arrived and taught people how to sow seeds, among other useful skills. The first person she taught to farm was Triptolemus, who shared his knowledge with his fellow Athenians. From there, the skill spread to Achaia and then to Arcadia. Barley was the first crop grown, and the invention of bread-making is credited to Pan.
The use of fire, as an instrument of cookery, must have been coeval with this invention of bread, which, being the most necessary of all kinds of food, was frequently used in a sense so comprehensive as to include both meat and drink. It was, by the Greeks, baked under the ashes.
The use of fire for cooking must have started around the same time as the invention of bread, which, being the most essential type of food, often referred to a broad range of items, including both meat and drink. The Greeks would bake it in the ashes.
64. IN THE PRIMARY AGES it was deemed unlawful to eat flesh, and when mankind began to depart from their primitive habits, the flesh of swine was the first that was eaten. For several ages, it was pronounced unlawful to slaughter oxen, from an estimate of their great value in assisting men to cultivate the ground; nor was it usual to kill young animals, from a sentiment which considered it cruel to take away the life of those that had scarcely tasted the joys of existence.
64. IN THE EARLY DAYS, it was considered illegal to eat meat, and when people started to move away from their basic ways, pig meat was the first to be consumed. For a long time, it was declared unlawful to butcher cattle because of their significant value in helping humans farm the land; it was also uncommon to kill young animals, as there was a belief that it was cruel to end the lives of those who had barely experienced life.
At this period no cooks were kept, and we know from Homer that his ancient heroes prepared and dressed their victuals with their own hands. Ulysses, for example, we are told, like a modern charwoman, excelled at lighting a fire, whilst Achilles was an adept at turning a spit. Subsequently, heralds, employed in civil and military affairs, filled the office of cooks, and managed marriage feasts; but this, no doubt, was after mankind had advanced in the art of living, a step further than roasting, which, in all places, was the ancient manner of dressing meat.
During this time, there were no cooks, and we know from Homer that his ancient heroes prepared and cooked their food themselves. Ulysses, for example, was skilled at starting a fire, much like a modern-day cleaner, while Achilles was good at roasting meat on a spit. Later on, heralds, who worked in both civil and military matters, took on the role of cooks and organized wedding feasts; but this likely came after society had progressed in the art of living, moving beyond just roasting, which was the traditional way of cooking meat everywhere.
65. THE AGE OF ROASTING we may consider as that in which the use of the metals would be introduced as adjuncts to the culinary art; and amongst these, iron, the most useful of them all, would necessarily take a prominent place. This metal is easily oxidized, but to bring it to a state of fusibility, it requires a most intense heat. Of all the metals, it is the widest diffused and most abundant; and few stones or mineral bodies are without an admixture of it. It possesses the valuable property of being welded by hammering; and hence its adaptation to the numerous purposes of civilized life.
65. THE AGE OF ROASTING can be seen as the period when metals started to be used as tools in cooking, with iron being the most important of them all. This metal oxidizes easily, but to melt it, you need an extremely high temperature. Out of all the metals, it's the most widely found and abundant; few rocks or minerals lack some amount of it. It has the useful ability to be welded by hammering, making it suitable for many applications in modern life.
Metallic grains of iron have been found in strawberries, and a twelfth of the weight of the wood of dried oak is said to consist of this metal. Blood owes its colour of redness to the quantity of iron it contains, and rain and snow are seldom perfectly free from it. In the arts it is employed in three states,—as cast iron, wrought iron, and steel. In each of these it largely enters into the domestic economy, and stoves, grates, and the general implements of cookery, are usually composed of it. In antiquity, its employment was, comparatively speaking, equally universal. The excavations made at Pompeii have proved this. The accompanying cuts present us with specimens of stoves, both ancient and modern. Fig. 2 is the remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of Pansa, at Pompeii, and would seem, in its perfect state, not to have been materially different from such as are in use at the present day. Fig. 3 is a self-acting, simple open range in modern use, and may be had of two qualities, ranging, according to their dimensions, from £3. 10s. and £3. 18s. respectively, up to £4. 10s. and £7. 5s. They are completely fitted up with oven, boiler, sliding cheek, wrought-iron bars, revolving shelves, and brass tap. Fig. 4, is called the Improved Leamington Kitchener, and is said to surpass any other range in use, for easy cooking by one fire. It has a hot plate, which is well calculated for an ironing-stove, and on which as many vessels as will stand upon it, may be kept boiling, without being either soiled or injured. Besides, it has a perfectly ventilated and spacious wrought-iron roaster, with movable shelves, draw-out stand, double dripping-pan, and meat-stand. The roaster can be converted into an oven by closing the valves, when bread and pastry can be baked in it in a superior manner. It also has a large iron boiler with brass tap and steam-pipe, round and square gridirons for chops and steaks, ash-pan, open fire for roasting, and a set of ornamental covings with plate-warmer attached. It took a first-class prize and medal in the Great Exhibition of 1851, and was also exhibited, with all the recent improvements, at the Dublin Exhibition in 1853. Fig. 5 is another kitchener, adapted for large families. It has on the one side, a large ventilated oven; and on the other, the fire and roaster. The hot plate is over all, and there is a back boiler, made of wrought iron, with brass tap and steam-pipe. In other respects it resembles Fig. 4, with which it possesses similar advantages of construction. Either maybe had at varying prices, according to size, from £5. 15s. up to £23. 10s. They are supplied by Messrs. Richard & John Slack 336, Strand, London.
Metal grains of iron have been found in strawberries, and it's said that one twelfth of the weight of dried oak wood is made up of this metal. Blood gets its red color from the amount of iron it contains, and rain and snow are rarely completely free of it. In the arts, it's used in three forms: cast iron, wrought iron, and steel. In each of these forms, iron plays a significant role in everyday life, with stoves, grates, and common cooking tools typically made from it. In ancient times, its use was similarly widespread. Excavations at Pompeii have demonstrated this. The accompanying images show examples of stoves from both ancient and modern times. Fig. 2 shows the remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of Pansa at Pompeii, which appears, in its intact form, to be not much different from stoves used today. Fig. 3 is a simple open range currently in use, available in two qualities, with prices ranging from £3. 10s. and £3. 18s. up to £4. 10s. and £7. 5s., depending on size. They come fully equipped with an oven, boiler, sliding cheek, wrought-iron bars, revolving shelves, and a brass tap. Fig. 4 is known as the Improved Leamington Kitchener and is claimed to be the best range available for easy cooking with just one fire. It features a hot plate suitable for ironing and can hold multiple pots boiling without risk of spilling or damage. Additionally, it has a well-ventilated, spacious wrought-iron roaster with movable shelves, a pull-out stand, a double dripping-pan, and a meat stand. The roaster can be turned into an oven by closing the valves, allowing for superior baking of bread and pastries. It also includes a large iron boiler with a brass tap and steam-pipe, round and square gridirons for chops and steaks, an ash-pan, an open fire for roasting, and a set of decorative covings with a plate-warmer. It won a first-class prize and medal at the Great Exhibition of 1851 and was displayed, with all the latest improvements, at the Dublin Exhibition in 1853. Fig. 5 shows another kitchener designed for large families. One side features a large ventilated oven, while the other has the fire and roaster. The hot plate runs across the top, and there's a back boiler made of wrought iron, complete with a brass tap and steam-pipe. Other than that, it resembles Fig. 4, sharing similar construction benefits. Either one is available at varying prices based on size, from £5. 15s. to £23. 10s. They are supplied by Messrs. Richard & John Slack, 336 Strand, London.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
66. FROM KITCHEN RANGES to the implements used in cookery is but a step. With these, every kitchen should be well supplied, otherwise the cook must not be expected to "perform her office" in a satisfactory manner. Of the culinary utensils of the ancients, our knowledge is very limited; but as the art of living, in every civilized country, is pretty much the same, the instruments for cooking must, in a great degree, bear a striking resemblance to each other. On referring to classical antiquities, we find mentioned, among household utensils, leather bags, baskets constructed of twigs, reeds, and rushes; boxes, basins, and bellows; bread-moulds, brooms, and brushes; caldrons, colanders, cisterns, and chafing-dishes; cheese-rasps, knives, and ovens of the Dutch kind; funnels and frying-pans; handmills, soup-ladles, milk-pails, and oil-jars; presses, scales, and sieves; spits of different sizes, but some of them large enough to roast an ox; spoons, fire-tongs, trays, trenchers, and drinking-vessels; with others for carrying food, preserving milk, and holding cheese. This enumeration, if it does nothing else, will, to some extent, indicate the state of the simpler kinds of mechanical arts among the ancients.
66. FROM KITCHEN RANGES to the tools used in cooking is just a small step. Every kitchen should be well-equipped with these, or else you can’t expect the cook to do her job successfully. Our understanding of the cooking tools from ancient times is quite limited; however, since the basics of living are fairly similar in every civilized country, the cooking instruments must have looked quite alike. When we look at ancient household items, we find references to leather bags, baskets made from twigs, reeds, and rushes; boxes, basins, and bellows; bread molds, brooms, and brushes; cauldrons, colanders, cisterns, and chafing dishes; cheese graters, knives, and Dutch ovens; funnels and frying pans; handmills, soup ladles, milk pails, and oil jars; presses, scales, and sieves; spits of various sizes, some large enough to roast an ox; spoons, fire tongs, trays, platters, and drinking vessels; along with other items for carrying food, storing milk, and holding cheese. This list, if nothing else, gives us a glimpse into the level of basic mechanical skills among the ancients.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
In so far as regards the shape and construction of many of the kitchen utensils enumerated above, they bore a great resemblance to our own. This will be seen by the accompanying cuts. Fig. 6 is an ancient stock-pot in bronze, which seems to have been made to hang over the fire, and was found in the buried city of Pompeii. Fig. 7 is one of modern make, and may be obtained either of copper or wrought iron, tinned inside. Fig. 8 is another of antiquity, with a large ladle and colander, with holes attached. It is taken from the column of Trajan. The modern ones can be obtained at all prices, according to size, from 13s. 6d. up to £1. 1s.
In terms of the shape and design of many of the kitchen utensils listed above, they closely resemble our own. This can be seen in the accompanying images. Fig. 6 is an ancient bronze stock pot that appears to have been designed to hang over a fire, discovered in the buried city of Pompeii. Fig. 7 is a modern version, available in either copper or tin-coated wrought iron. Fig. 8 features another ancient item, complete with a large ladle and colander, featuring holes. It is sourced from Trajan's column. The modern versions can be found at various prices, ranging from 13s. 6d. up to £1. 1s.
67. IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THESE UTENSILS, bronze metal seems to have been much in favour with the ancients. It was chosen not only for their domestic vessels, but it was also much used for their public sculptures and medals. It is a compound, composed of from six to twelve parts of tin to one hundred of copper. It gives its name to figures and all pieces of sculpture made of it. Brass was another favourite metal, which is composed of copper and zinc. It is more fusible than copper, and not so apt to tarnish. In a pure state it is not malleable, unless when hot, and after it has been melted twice it will not bear the hammer. To render it capable of being wrought, it requires 7 lb. of lead to be put to 1 cwt. of its own material.
67. IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THESE UTENSILS, bronze was a popular choice among the ancients. It was used not only for their everyday vessels but also extensively for public sculptures and medals. Bronze is an alloy made of six to twelve parts of tin to one hundred parts of copper. It gives its name to figures and all types of sculptures made from it. Brass was another preferred metal, made from copper and zinc. It melts more easily than copper and is less likely to tarnish. In its pure state, it’s not malleable unless heated, and after being melted twice, it can't handle being hammered. To make it workable, you need to add 7 lbs. of lead to every 1 cwt. of the material.
The Corinthian brass of antiquity was a mixture of silver, gold, and copper. A fine kind of brass, supposed to be made by the cementation of copper plates with calamine, is, in Germany, hammered out into leaves, and is called Dutch metal in this country. It is employed in the same way as gold leaf. Brass is much used for watchworks, as well as for wire.
The Corinthian brass from ancient times was a blend of silver, gold, and copper. A high-quality type of brass, believed to be made by combining copper plates with calamine, is hammered into sheets in Germany and known as Dutch metal in this country. It's used similarly to gold leaf. Brass is commonly used in watchmaking and for making wire.
68. The braziers, ladles, stewpans, saucepans, gridirons, and colanders of antiquity might generally pass for those of the English manufacture of the present day, in so far as shape is concerned. In proof of this we have placed together the following similar articles of ancient and modern pattern, in order that the reader may, at a single view, see wherein any difference that is between them, consists.
68. The braziers, ladles, stewpans, saucepans, gridirons, and colanders from ancient times could easily be mistaken for those made in England today, at least in terms of shape. To support this, we've compiled a selection of similar items from both ancient and modern styles, so the reader can quickly see the differences between them.
[Illustration: Fig. 9. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 9. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10. Antique.]
[Illustration: Fig. 11. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 11. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 12. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 12. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 13. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 13. Contemporary.]
[Illustration: Fig. 14. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 14. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 15. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 15. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16. Modern.]
[Illustration: Fig. 17. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 17. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 18. Ancient.]
[Illustration: Fig. 18. Ancient.]
Figs. 9 and 10 are flat sauce or sauté pans, the ancient one being fluted in the handle, and having at the end a ram's head. Figs. 11 and 12 are colanders, the handle of the ancient one being adorned, in the original, with carved representations of a cornucopia, a satyr, a goat, pigs, and other animals. Any display of taste in the adornment of such utensils, might seem to be useless; but when we remember how much more natural it is for us all to be careful of the beautiful and costly, than of the plain and cheap, it may even become a question in the economy of a kitchen, whether it would not, in the long run, be cheaper to have articles which displayed some tasteful ingenuity in their manufacture, than such as are so perfectly plain as to have no attractions whatever beyond their mere suitableness to the purposes for which they are made. Figs. 13 and 14 are saucepans, the ancient one being of bronze, originally copied from the cabinet of M. l'Abbé Charlet, and engraved in the Antiquities of Montfaucon. Figs. 15 and 17 are gridirons, and 16 and 18 dripping-pans. In all these utensils the resemblance between such as were in use 2,000 years ago, and those in use at the present day, is strikingly manifest.
Figs. 9 and 10 show flat sauce or sauté pans, where the ancient version has a fluted handle and features a ram's head at the end. Figs. 11 and 12 are colanders, with the handle of the ancient one decorated with carved images of a cornucopia, a satyr, a goat, pigs, and other animals. While it might seem unnecessary to embellish such kitchenware, when we consider that people naturally tend to care more about beautiful and expensive items than those that are plain and cheap, it raises the question of whether it might actually be more economical in the long run to invest in utensils that showcase some creative design rather than those that are so simple they offer no appeal beyond their functionality. Figs. 13 and 14 depict saucepans; the ancient one is made of bronze and was originally inspired by the collection of M. l'Abbé Charlet, as seen in the Antiquities of Montfaucon. Figs. 15 and 17 show gridirons, and 16 and 18 show dripping pans. In all these utensils, the similarities between those used 2,000 years ago and those used today are strikingly clear.
69. SOME OF THE ANCIENT UTENSILS represented in the above cuts, are copied from those found amid the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. These Roman cities were, in the first century, buried beneath the lava of an eruption of Vesuvius, and continued to be lost to the world till the beginning of the last century, when a peasant, in digging for a well, gradually discovered a small temple with some statues. Little notice, however, was taken of this circumstance till 1736, when the king of Naples, desiring to erect a palace at Portici, caused extensive excavations to be made, when the city of Herculaneum was slowly unfolded to view. Pompeii was discovered about 1750, and being easier cleared from the lava in which it had so long been entombed, disclosed itself as it existed immediately before the catastrophe which overwhelmed it, nearly two thousand years ago. It presented, to the modern world, the perfect picture of the form and structure of an ancient Roman city. The interior of its habitations, shops, baths, theatres, and temples, were all disclosed, with many of the implements used by the workmen in their various trades, and the materials on which they were employed, when the doomed city was covered with the lavian stream.
69. SOME OF THE ANCIENT UTENSILS shown in the images above are taken from those found in the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. These Roman cities were buried under lava from a Vesuvius eruption in the first century and remained lost to the world until the early 18th century, when a peasant digging for a well gradually uncovered a small temple with some statues. However, little attention was paid to this discovery until 1736, when the king of Naples wanted to build a palace at Portici and ordered extensive excavations, slowly revealing the city of Herculaneum. Pompeii was discovered around 1750, and since it was easier to clear from the lava that had entombed it for so long, it revealed itself as it was just before the disaster that struck nearly two thousand years ago. It offered the modern world a perfect glimpse of the form and structure of an ancient Roman city. The interiors of its homes, shops, baths, theaters, and temples were all laid bare, along with many of the tools used by workers in their various trades and the materials they were working with when the doomed city was covered by the lava flow.
70. AMONGST THE MOST ESSENTIAL REQUIREMENTS of the kitchen are scales or weighing-machines for family use. These are found to have existed among the ancients, and must, at a very early age, have been both publicly and privately employed for the regulation of quantities. The modern English weights were adjusted by the 27th chapter of Magna Charta, or the great charter forced, by the barons, from King John at Runnymede, in Surrey. Therein it is declared that the weights, all over England, shall be the same, although for different commodities there were two different kinds, Troy and Avoirdupois. The origin of both is taken from a grain of wheat gathered in the middle of an ear. The standard of measures was originally kept at Winchester, and by a law of King Edgar was ordained to be observed throughout the kingdom.
70. ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOLS in the kitchen is a scale or weighing machine for home use. These have been used since ancient times and were likely employed both publicly and privately to measure quantities. The modern English weights were standardized by the 27th chapter of Magna Carta, which was forced from King John by the barons at Runnymede in Surrey. This charter stated that weights throughout England should be uniform, although there were two different systems for various goods: Troy and Avoirdupois. The origin of both is traced back to a grain of wheat taken from the middle of an ear. The standard of measures was originally kept in Winchester and was mandated to be upheld throughout the kingdom by a law from King Edgar.
[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
Fig. 19 is an ancient pair of common scales, with two basins and a movable weight, which is made in the form of a head, covered with the pileus, because Mercury had the weights and measures under his superintendence. It is engraved on a stone in the gallery of Florence. Fig. 20 represents a modern weighing-machine, of great convenience, and generally in use in those establishments where a great deal of cooking is carried on.
Fig. 19 shows an ancient pair of common scales, featuring two bowls and a movable weight shaped like a head, topped with a pileus, since Mercury oversaw weights and measures. This is engraved on a stone in the Florence gallery. Fig. 20 depicts a modern weighing machine, which is very convenient and commonly used in places where a lot of cooking takes place.
71. ACCOMPANYING THE SCALES, or weighing-machines, there should be spice-boxes, and sugar and biscuit-canisters of either white or japanned tin. The covers of these should fit tightly, in order to exclude the air, and if necessary, be lettered in front, to distinguish them. The white metal of which they are usually composed, loses its colour when exposed to the air, but undergoes no further change. It enters largely into the composition of culinary utensils, many of them being entirely composed of tinned sheet-iron; the inside of copper and iron vessels also, being usually what is called tinned. This art consists of covering any metal with a thin coating of tin; and it requires the metal to be covered, to be perfectly clean and free from rust, and also that the tin, itself, be purely metallic, and entirely cleared from all ashes or refuse. Copper boilers, saucepans, and other kitchen utensils, are tinned after they are manufactured, by being first made hot and the tin rubbed on with resin. In this process, nothing ought to be used but pure grain-tin. Lead, however, is sometimes mixed with that metal, not only to make it lie more easily, but to adulterate it—a pernicious practice, which in every article connected with the cooking and preparation of food, cannot be too severely reprobated.—The following list, supplied by Messrs. Richard & John Slack, 336, Strand, will show the articles required for the kitchen of a family in the middle class of life, although it does not contain all the things that may be deemed necessary for some families, and may contain more than are required for others. As Messrs. Slack themselves, however, publish a useful illustrated catalogue, which may be had at their establishment gratis, and which it will be found advantageous to consult by those about to furnish, it supersedes the necessity of our enlarging that which we give:—
71. ALONG WITH THE SCALES, or weighing machines, there should be spice jars and containers for sugar and biscuits made of either white or painted tin. The lids of these should fit tightly to keep out the air and, if needed, be labeled in front for easy identification. The white metal they're usually made from loses its color when exposed to the air, but doesn't change any further. It's commonly used in kitchen utensils, many of which are entirely made of tinned sheet metal; the insides of copper and iron cookware are often tinned as well. This process involves covering any metal with a thin layer of tin; it requires the base metal to be completely clean and rust-free, and the tin itself must be pure and free from any ash or debris. Copper pots, pans, and other kitchen tools are tinned after they are made by heating them and rubbing tin on with resin. During this process, only pure grain-tin should be used. However, lead is sometimes mixed with tin, not only to help it spread better but also to contaminate it—a harmful practice that should be strongly condemned for anything related to cooking and food preparation. The following list, provided by Richard & John Slack, 336 Strand, includes the items needed for a middle-class family's kitchen, though it may not cover everything some families consider essential and might include more than what others need. Nevertheless, since Messrs. Slack publish a useful illustrated catalog available for free at their establishment, it's advisable to consult it when furnishing a kitchen, making our expanded list unnecessary:—
s. d.
s. d.
1 Tea-kettle 6 6 1 Toasting-fork 1 0 1 Bread-grater 1 0 1 Pair of Brass Candlesticks 3 6 1 Teapot and Tray 6 6 1 Bottle-jack 9 6 6 Spoons 1 6 2 Candlesticks 2 6 1 Candle-box 1 4 6 Knives and Forks 5 3 2 Sets of Skewers 1 0 1 Meat-chopper 1 9 1 Cinder-sifter 1 3 1 Coffee-pot 2 3 1 Colander 1 6 3 Block-tin Saucepans 5 9 5 Iron Saucepans 12 0 1 Ditto and Steamer 6 6 1 Large Boiling-pot 10 0 4 Iron Stewpans 8 9 1 Dripping-pan and Stand 6 6 1 Dustpan 1 0 1 Fish and Egg-slice 1 9 2 Fish-kettles 10 0 1 Flour-box 1 0 3 Flat-irons 3 6 2 Frying-pans 4 0 1 Gridiron 2 0 1 Mustard-pot 1 0 1 Salt-cellar 0 8 1 Pepper-box 0 6 1 Pair of Bellows 2 0 3 Jelly-moulds 8 0 1 Plate-basket 5 6 1 Cheese-toaster 1 10 1 Coal-shovel 2 6 1 Wood Meat-screen 30 0
1 Tea kettle 6 6 1 Toasting fork 1 0 1 Bread grater 1 0 1 Pair of brass candlesticks 3 6 1 Teapot and tray 6 6 1 Bottle jack 9 6 6 Spoons 1 6 2 Candlesticks 2 6 1 Candle box 1 4 6 Knives and forks 5 3 2 Sets of skewers 1 0 1 Meat chopper 1 9 1 Cinder sifter 1 3 1 Coffee pot 2 3 1 Colander 1 6 3 Block tin saucepans 5 9 5 Iron saucepans 12 0 1 Ditto and steamer 6 6 1 Large boiling pot 10 0 4 Iron stew pans 8 9 1 Dripping pan and stand 6 6 1 Dustpan 1 0 1 Fish and egg slice 1 9 2 Fish kettles 10 0 1 Flour box 1 0 3 Flat irons 3 6 2 Frying pans 4 0 1 Gridiron 2 0 1 Mustard pot 1 0 1 Salt cellar 0 8 1 Pepper box 0 6 1 Pair of bellows 2 0 3 Jelly molds 8 0 1 Plate basket 5 6 1 Cheese toaster 1 10 1 Coal shovel 2 6 1 Wood meat screen 30 0
The Set £8 11 1
The Set £8 11 1
72. AS NOT ONLY HEALTH BUT LIFE may be said to depend on the cleanliness of culinary utensils, great attention must be paid to their condition generally, but more especially to that of the saucepans, stewpans, and boilers. Inside they should be kept perfectly clean, and where an open fire is used, the outside as clean as possible. With a Leamington range, saucepans, stewpans, &c., can be kept entirely free from smoke and soot on the outside, which is an immense saving of labour to the cook or scullery-maid. Care should be taken that the lids fit tight and close, so that soups or gravies may not be suffered to waste by evaporation. They should be made to keep the steam in and the smoke out, and should always be bright on the upper rim, where they do not immediately come in contact with the fire. Soup-pots and kettles should be washed immediately After being used, and dried before the fire, and they should be kept in a dry place, in order that they may escape the deteriorating influence of rust, and, thereby, be destroyed. Copper utensils should never be used in the kitchen unless tinned, and the utmost care should be taken, not to let the tin be rubbed off. If by chance this should occur, have it replaced before the vessel is again brought into use. Neither soup nor gravy should, at any time, be suffered to remain in them longer than is absolutely necessary, as any fat or acid that is in them, may affect the metal, so as to impregnate with poison what is intended to be eaten. Stone and earthenware vessels should be provided for soups and gravies not intended for immediate use, and, also, plenty of common dishes for the larder, that the table-set may not be used for such purposes. It is the nature of vegetables soon to turn sour, when they are apt to corrode glazed red-ware, and even metals, and frequently, thereby, to become impregnated with poisonous particles. The vinegar also in pickles, by its acidity, does the same. Consideration, therefore, should be given to these facts, and great care also taken that all sieves, jelly-bags, and tapes for collared articles, be well scalded and kept dry, or they will impart an unpleasant flavour when next used. To all these directions the cook should pay great attention, nor should they, by any means, be neglected by the mistress of the household, who ought to remember that cleanliness in the kitchen gives health and happiness to home, whilst economy will immeasurably assist in preserving them.
72. SINCE BOTH HEALTH AND LIFE depend on the cleanliness of cooking tools, significant attention should be given to their overall condition, especially the saucepans, stewpans, and boilers. The insides should always be kept spotless, and if using an open fire, the outsides should be as clean as possible. With a Leamington range, saucepans, stewpans, etc., can be kept completely free of smoke and soot on the outside, which saves the cook or kitchen helper a lot of work. Ensure that the lids fit tight and close, so soups or gravies don’t evaporate. They should be designed to keep steam in and smoke out, and should always be shiny on the upper rim, where they don’t come into direct contact with the fire. Soup pots and kettles should be washed immediately after use and dried by the fire, and they should be stored in a dry spot to avoid rust and possible damage. Copper utensils should only be used in the kitchen if they're tinned, and you should be very careful not to scrub the tin off. If it does get scratched, have it replaced before using the utensil again. Neither soup nor gravy should be left in them longer than absolutely necessary, as any fat or acid can react with the metal and contaminate the food. Stone and earthenware containers should be used for soups and gravies that aren’t meant to be consumed right away, along with plenty of basic dishes for storage, so that the dining table isn’t used for these purposes. Vegetables tend to sour quickly, which can corrode glazed redware and even metals, possibly resulting in toxic contamination. The acidity in vinegar from pickles can do the same. Therefore, these factors should be considered, and great care should be taken to ensure that all sieves, jelly-bags, and tapes for collared items are well scalded and stored dry, or they will leave an unpleasant flavor when used next. The cook should pay close attention to all these guidelines, and the mistress of the household should not neglect them, as a clean kitchen contributes to health and happiness at home, while efficiency will greatly help maintain both.
73. WITHOUT FUEL, A KITCHEN might be pronounced to be of little use; therefore, to discover and invent materials for supplying us with the means of domestic heat and comfort, has exercised the ingenuity of man. Those now known have been divided into five classes; the first comprehending the fluid inflammable bodies; the second, peat or turf; the third, charcoal of wood; the fourth, pit-coal charred; and the fifth, wood or pit-coal in a crude state, with the capacity of yielding a copious and bright flame. The first may be said seldom to be employed for the purposes of cookery; but peat, especially amongst rural populations, has, in all ages, been regarded as an excellent fuel. It is one of the most important productions of an alluvial soil, and belongs to the vegetable rather than the mineral kingdom. It may be described as composed of wet, spongy black earth, held together by decayed vegetables. Formerly it covered extensive tracts in England, but has greatly disappeared before the genius of agricultural improvement. Charcoal is a kind of artificial coal, used principally where a strong and clear fire is desired. It is a black, brittle, insoluble, inodorous, tasteless substance, and, when newly-made, possesses the remarkable property of absorbing certain quantities of the different gases. Its dust, when used as a polishing powder, gives great brilliancy to metals. It consists of wood half-burned, and is manufactured by cutting pieces of timber into nearly the same size, then disposing them in heaps, and covering them with earth, so as to prevent communication with the air, except when necessary to make them burn. When they have been sufficiently charred, the fire is extinguished by stopping the vents through which the air is admitted. Of coal there are various species; as, pit, culm, slate, cannel, Kilkenny, sulphurous, bovey, jet, &c. These have all their specific differences, and are employed for various purposes; but are all, more or less, used as fuel.
73. WITHOUT FUEL, A KITCHEN might be considered pretty useless; so, figuring out and inventing materials to provide us with heat and comfort at home has challenged human creativity. The fuels we know today fall into five categories: the first includes liquid flammable substances; the second is peat or turf; the third is charcoal made from wood; the fourth is charred pit coal; and the fifth is raw wood or pit coal that can produce a strong, bright flame. The first type is rarely used for cooking, but peat, especially among rural communities, has always been seen as great fuel. It’s one of the most important products of alluvial soil and is more of a plant material than a mineral. It’s basically made up of wet, spongy black earth that’s held together by decomposed plants. In the past, it covered large areas in England, but its use has declined with advancements in agriculture. Charcoal is a type of man-made coal, mainly used when a strong, clear fire is needed. It’s a black, brittle, tasteless, odorless substance, and when it’s fresh, it has the unique ability to absorb certain gases. Its dust can polish metals to a brilliant shine. Charcoal is made from partially burned wood, created by cutting timber into pieces of similar size, piling them up, and covering them with dirt to limit air exposure, except when you need to ignite them. Once they’re charred enough, the fire is put out by sealing up the air vents. There are different types of coal, such as pit, culm, slate, cannel, Kilkenny, sulfurous, bovey, jet, etc. Each has its own specific characteristics and is used for various purposes, but they are all used, to some extent, as fuel.
The use of coal for burning purposes was not known to the Romans. In Britain it was discovered about fifty years before the birth of Christ, in Lancashire, not tar from where Manchester now stands; but for ages after its discovery, so long as forests abounded, wood continued to be the fuel used for firing. The first public notice of coal is in the reign of Henry III., who, in 1272, granted a charter to the town of Newcastle, permitting the inhabitants to dig for coal. It took some centuries more, however, to bring it into common use, as this did not take place till about the first quarter of the seventeenth century, in the time of Charles I. A few years after the Restoration, we find that about 200,000 chaldrons were consumed in London. Although several countries possess mines of coal, the quality of their mineral is, in general, greatly inferior to that of Great Britain, where it is found mostly in undulating districts abounding with valleys, and interspersed with plains of considerable extent. It lies usually between the strata of other substances, and rarely in an horizontal position, but with a dip or inclination to one side. Our cut, Fig. 21, represents a section of coal as it is found in the stratum.
The Romans didn’t know about using coal for fuel. In Britain, it was discovered around fifty years before the birth of Christ in Lancashire, close to where Manchester is now. However, for many years after its discovery, as long as there were plenty of forests, wood remained the main fuel source. The first public mention of coal was during the reign of Henry III, who, in 1272, granted a charter to the town of Newcastle, allowing residents to dig for coal. It took a few more centuries for coal to become commonly used, which didn’t happen until around the early seventeenth century, during the time of Charles I. A few years after the Restoration, about 200,000 chaldrons were consumed in London. While several countries have coal mines, the quality of their coal is generally much poorer than that of Great Britain, where coal is mostly found in hilly areas filled with valleys and large plains. It usually lies between layers of other materials and rarely sits horizontally, but rather at an angle or tilt. Our cut, Fig. 21, shows a section of coal as it is found in the layer.
[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
74. TO BE ACQUAINTED WITH THE PERIODS when things are in season, is one of the most essential pieces of knowledge which enter into the "Art of Cookery." We have, therefore, compiled the following list, which will serve to show for every month in the year the
74. Knowing when ingredients are in season is one of the most important things to understand in the "Art of Cooking." So, we've put together the following list to highlight what’s in season for each month of the year.
TIMES WHEN THINGS ARE IN SEASON.
JANUARY.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings.
MEAT.—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison.
POULTRY.—Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys.
POULTRY.—Capon, chickens, domestic pigeons, young hens, rabbits, turkeys.
GAME.—Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock.
GAME.—Grouse, rabbits, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wildfowl, woodcock.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cress, cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoy cabbages, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts, crystallized preserves (foreign), dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates.
FRUIT.—Apples, grapes, medlar fruits, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts, crystallized preserves (imported), dried fruits like almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates.
FEBRUARY.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod may be bought, but is not so good as in January, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
FISH.—You can buy barbel, brill, carp, and cod, but they’re not as good as in January. Crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, and whiting are also available.
MEAT.—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb from the house, mutton, pork, veal.
POULTRY.—Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.
POULTRY.—Caponized chickens, chickens, ducklings, domestic and wild pigeons, pullets with eggs, turkeys, and wild birds, although they are not currently in full season.
GAME.—Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.
GAME.—Grouse, rabbits, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.
FRUIT.—Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (from abroad), like almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.
MARCH.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
MEAT.—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
MEAT.—Beef, domestic lamb, sheep meat, pork, veal.
POULTRY.—Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.
POULTRY.—Capon, chickens, ducklings, domesticated and wild pigeons, pullets with eggs, turkeys, and wild birds, although they are not in full season right now.
GAME.—Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.
GAME.—Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea kale, spinach, turnips,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.
FRUIT.—Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears (Bon Chrétien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), like almonds and raisins; French and Spanish plums; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.
APRIL.
FISH.—Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters, red and gray mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but rather scarce and expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench, turbot, whitings.
FISH.—Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters, red and gray mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but quite rare and expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, goat, veal.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, leverets, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, birds, young rabbits, pigeons, young hens, and rabbits.
GAME.—Hares.
GAME.—Rabbits.
VEGETABLES.—Broccoli, celery, lettuces, young onions, parsnips, radishes, small salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Broccoli, celery, lettuce, young onions, parsnips, radishes, small salad, sea kale, spinach, sprouts,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, &e. for tarts, rhubarb, dried fruits, crystallized preserves.
FRUIT.—Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, etc. for tarts, rhubarb, dried fruits, crystallized preserves.
MAY.
FISH.—Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, red and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, soles, trout, turbot.
FISH.—Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, red and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, soles, trout, turbot.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, sheep, veal.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pullets, rabbits.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, birds, young geese, young rabbits, and pullets.
VEGETABLES.—Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, creases, cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, salads, sea-kale,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, creases, cucumbers, lettuces, peas, early potatoes, salads, sea kale,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for tarts, gooseberries, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.
FRUIT.—Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for pies, gooseberries, melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.
JUNE.
FISH.—Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.
FISH.—Carp, crayfish, herring, lobster, mackerel, mullet, pike, shrimp, salmon, sole, tench, trout, turbot.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, birds, green geese, young hares, plovers, young hens, rabbits, turkey chicks, wheatears.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, lettuces, onions, parsnips, pease, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea-kale, spinach,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea kale, spinach,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.
FRUIT.—Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.
JULY.
FISH.—Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles, sturgeon, tench, thornback.
FISH.—Carp, crayfish, dorade, flounder, haddock, herring, lobster, mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, shrimp, salmon, prawn, sole, sturgeon, tench, thornback.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (called flappers).
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, birds, young geese, leverets, plovers, young hens, rabbits, turkey chicks, wheatears, wild ducks (known as flappers).
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, radishes, small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrow,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cress, endive, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, peas, radishes, mixed greens, sea kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrow,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts in high season, and pickled.
FRUIT.—Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts in peak season, and pickled.
AUGUST.
FISH.—Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders, grigs, herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, soles, sturgeon, thornback, trout, turbot.
FISH.—Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders, grigs, herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, soles, sturgeon, thornback, trout, turbot.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, sheep, veal, buck deer.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducklings, birds, young geese, pigeons, plovers, young hens, rabbits, turkey chicks, wheatears, wild ducks.
GAME.—Leverets, grouse, blackcock.
Game: Hares, grouse, black grouse.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, radishes, sea-bale, small salading, sprouts, turnips, various kitchen herbs, vegetable marrows.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, cress, endive, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, sea kale, mixed salad greens, sprouts, turnips, various kitchen herbs, zucchini.
FRUIT.—Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, walnuts.
FRUIT.—Currants, figs, hazelnuts, gooseberries, grapes, melons, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, walnuts.
SEPTEMBER.
FISH.—Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait.
FISH.—Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, goat, pork, veal.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys.
POULTRY.—Chickens, ducks, birds, geese, larks, pigeons, young hens, rabbits, teal, turkeys.
GAME.—Blackcock, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants.
GAME.—Black grouse, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, salading, sea-kale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, salads, sea kale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, zucchini,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, morella-cherries, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, walnuts.
FRUIT.—Bullaces, damsons, figs, hazelnuts, grapes, melons, sour cherries, mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, walnuts.
OCTOBER.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.
MEAT.—Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, pork, veal, venison.
POULTRY.—Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.
POULTRY.—Chickens, fowl, geese, larks, pigeons, young hens, rabbits, teal, turkeys, wigeons, wild ducks.
GAME.—Blackcock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks, doe venison.
GAME.—Blackcock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, woodcock, doe venison.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, zucchini,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, pears, quinces, walnuts.
FRUIT.—Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, hazelnuts, grapes, pears, quinces, walnuts.
NOVEMBER.
FISH.—Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.
FISH.—Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oysters, pike, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.
MEAT.—Beef, mutton, veal, doe venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, veal, doe venison.
POULTRY.—Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild duck.
POULTRY.—Chickens, hens, geese, larks, pigeons, young hens, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.
GAME.—Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.
GAME.—Hares, quail, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuces, late cucumbers, onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, sprouts,—various herbs.
VEGETABLES.—Beetroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuce, late cucumbers, onions, potatoes, salad greens, spinach, sprouts,—various herbs.
FRUIT.—Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, pears, walnuts.
FRUIT.—Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, hazelnuts, grapes, pears, walnuts.
DECEMBER.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, oysters, porch, pike, shrimps, skate, sprats, soles, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, dace, gudgeons, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, oysters, perch, pike, shrimp, skate, sprats, soles, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
MEAT.—Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, venison.
MEAT.—Beef, lamb, sheep, pork, venison.
POULTRY.—Capons, chickens, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal, turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.
POULTRY.—Capon, chicken, bird, goose, pigeon, hen, rabbit, teal, turkey, widgeon, wild duck.
GAME.—Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.
GAME.—Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.
VEGETABLES.—Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter spinach.
VEGETABLES.—Broccoli, cabbage, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, kale, turnips, winter spinach.
FRUIT.—Apples, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars, oranges, pears, walnuts, dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, figs, dates, &c.,—crystallized preserves.
FRUIT.—Apples, chestnuts, hazelnuts, grapes, medlar fruit, oranges, pears, walnuts, dried fruits like almonds and raisins, figs, dates, and crystallized preserves.
75. WHEN FUEL AND FOOD ARE PROCURED, the next consideration is, how the latter may be best preserved, with a view to its being suitably dressed. More waste is often occasioned by the want of judgment, or of necessary care in this particular, than by any other cause. In the absence of proper places for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in an airy situation, is the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dry and shady, is better for meat and poultry, which require to be kept for some time; and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate for the want of proper attention to this particular. Though it is advisable that annual food should be hung up in the open air till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet, if it is kept till it loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become deteriorated, and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many of its qualities conducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace of putrescence is detected, it has reached its highest degree of tenderness, and should be dressed immediately. During the sultry summer months, it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough or tainted. It should, therefore, be well examined when it comes in, and if flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and the remainder well washed. In very cold weather, meat and vegetables touched by the frost, should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning, and soaked in cold water. In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef. Rumps and edgebones of beef, when bruised, should not be purchased. All these things ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager, and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or suffered to be wasted in the kitchen, which might, by proper management, be turned to a good account. The shank-bones of mutton, so little esteemed in general, give richness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and brushed before they are added to the boiling. They are also particularly nourishing for sick persons. Roast-beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make excellent stock for pea-soup.—When the whites of eggs are used for jelly, confectionary, or other purposes, a pudding or a custard should be made, that the yolks may be used. All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness: sugars of different sorts; currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry; spices pounded, and kept in very small bottles closely corked, or in canisters, as we have already directed (72). Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to be used in the course of a month. Much waste is always prevented by keeping every article in the place best suited to it. Vegetables keep best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded; meat, in a cold dry place; as also salt, sugar, sweet-meats, candles, dried meats, and hams. Rice, and all sorts of seed for puddings, should be closely covered to preserve them from insects; but even this will not prevent them from being affected by these destroyers, if they are long and carelessly kept.
75. WHEN FUEL AND FOOD ARE OBTAINED, the next thing to think about is how to best preserve the food for cooking. More waste often happens due to poor judgment or lack of care in this area than from any other reason. If there aren’t proper places to store food, a hanging safe in a well-ventilated area is the next best option. A cool, dry, and shady larder is better for meat and poultry that need to be kept for a while; no matter how skilled you are in cooking, it won't make up for neglecting this aspect. It is advisable to hang annual food outdoors until the fibers become a bit less tough, but if it’s kept too long and loses its natural sweetness, its flavor deteriorates, and it loses many health benefits as a nutritious food. As soon as there’s even a hint of spoilage, it has reached its peak tenderness and should be cooked right away. In hot summer months, it’s tough to find meat that isn't either tough or spoiled. Therefore, it should be closely inspected when it arrives, and if flies have come into contact with it, that part must be cut away, and the rest well washed. In very cold weather, any meat or vegetables affected by frost should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning and soaked in cold water. For loins of meat, the long pipe along the bone should be removed since it can cause spoilage, along with any beef kernels. Bruised rumps and edge bones of beef should not be bought. All of these considerations are essential for every household manager, and great care should be taken to ensure that nothing is wasted or thrown away in the kitchen that could be used effectively with proper handling. Shank bones of mutton, which are often undervalued, can add richness to soups or sauces if soaked and brushed well before being added to boiling dishes. They are also very nourishing for those who are sick. Roast beef bones or ham shank bones make excellent stock for pea soup. When egg whites are used for jelly, desserts, or other recipes, yolks should be used to make a pudding or custard. Everything that might be needed should be prepared: different types of sugar; currants that are washed, picked, and completely dried; spices that are ground and kept in small tightly sealed bottles or containers, as we mentioned earlier (72). Do not buy more of these than will be used in a month. Keeping each item in its suitable place helps prevent waste. Vegetables stay fresh longest on a stone floor if air is kept out; meat should be stored in a cold, dry place, as should salt, sugar, sweets, candles, dried meat, and hams. Rice and any kind of pudding seeds should be covered tightly to keep insects away; however, even that won't stop them from becoming infested if they are stored carelessly for a long time.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER IV.
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.
76. AS IN THE FINE ARTS, the progress of mankind from barbarism to civilization is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rude materialities of nature, so in the art of cookery is the progress gradual from the earliest and simplest modes, to those of the most complicated and refined. Plain or rudely-carved stones, tumuli, or mounds of earth, are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote the events of their history, to be succeeded, only in the long course of a series of ages, by beautifully-proportioned columns, gracefully-sculptured statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals, and the higher efforts of the pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture and observation to the perfection of his facilities. So is it with the art of cookery. Man, in his primitive state, lives upon roots and the fruits of the earth, until, by degrees, he is driven to seek for new means, by which his wants may be supplied and enlarged. He then becomes a hunter and a fisher. As his species increases, greater necessities come upon him, when he gradually abandons the roving life of the savage for the more stationary pursuits of the herdsman. These beget still more settled habits, when he begins the practice of agriculture, forms ideas of the rights of property, and has his own, both defined and secured. The forest, the stream, and the sea are now no longer his only resources for food. He sows and he reaps, pastures and breeds cattle, lives on the cultivated produce of his fields, and revels in the luxuries of the dairy; raises flocks for clothing, and assumes, to all intents and purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition of a farmer. This is the fourth stage of social progress, up to which the useful or mechanical arts have been incidentally developing themselves, when trade and commerce begin. Through these various phases, only to live has been the great object of mankind; but, by-and-by, comforts are multiplied, and accumulating riches create new wants. The object, then, is not only to live, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully, and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery commences; and although the fruits of the earth, the fowls of the air, the beasts of the field, and the fish of the sea, are still the only food of mankind, yet these are so prepared, improved, and dressed by skill and ingenuity, that they are the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyments. Everything that is edible, and passes under the hands of the cook, is more or less changed, and assumes new forms. Hence the influence of that functionary is immense upon the happiness of a household.
76. Just like in the fine arts, humanity's journey from barbarism to civilization is marked by gradual victories over the harsh realities of nature, the art of cooking also progresses from the earliest and simplest methods to the most complex and refined techniques. Plain or crudely-carved stones, burial mounds, or earth mounds are the monuments that primitive tribes use to mark significant events in their history. Only after a long passage of time do these get replaced by beautifully proportioned columns, gracefully carved statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals, and the higher achievements of painting and writing as people advance through culture and observation toward refining their skills. The same thing happens with cooking. In his primitive state, man survives on roots and fruits from the earth, until he gradually feels the need to find new ways to meet and expand his needs. He becomes a hunter and a fisherman. As his population grows, new necessities emerge, prompting him to leave behind the nomadic life of a savage for the more settled life of a herder. This shift leads to even more stable habits, resulting in the practice of agriculture, the development of property rights, and a defined and secured personal stake in resources. The forest, the river, and the sea are no longer his only sources of food. He plants seeds and harvests crops, raises and tends livestock, lives off the cultivated produce, and enjoys the comforts of dairy products; he raises flocks for clothing and essentially adopts the habits of a stable, comfortable farmer. This represents the fourth stage of social progress, during which useful or mechanical arts have been developing incidentally, leading to the beginnings of trade and commerce. Throughout these various stages, the primary goal has simply been survival; but eventually, comforts multiply, and accumulating wealth creates new desires. The aim then becomes not just to survive, but to live economically, comfortably, tastefully, and well. Thus, the art of cooking begins; while fruits, birds, animals, and fish remain the main foods for humanity, they are prepared, enhanced, and presented with skill and creativity, significantly broadening the scope of human enjoyment. Everything edible that comes into the cook's hands is transformed in some way, taking on new forms. Therefore, the influence of the cook is immense when it comes to the happiness of a household.
77. In order that the duties of the Cook may be properly performed, and that he may be able to reproduce esteemed dishes with certainty, all terms of indecision should be banished from his art. Accordingly, what is known only to him, will, in these pages, be made known to others. In them all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this, some of that, a small piece of that, and a handful of the other, shall never be made use of, but all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated. With a desire, also, that all ignorance on this most essential part of the culinary art should disappear, and that a uniform system of weights and measures should be adopted, we give an account of the weights which answer to certain measures.
77. To ensure that the Cook can perform his duties effectively and recreate beloved dishes with confidence, all vague terms must be eliminated from his craft. Therefore, what is known only to him will be shared with others in these pages. In this text, all indecisive phrases like a bit of this, some of that, a small piece of that, and a handful of the other will not be used; instead, all quantities will be clearly and specifically stated. With the aim of eradicating any ignorance about this crucial aspect of cooking and establishing a standard system of weights and measures, we will outline the weights that correspond to specific measures.
A TABLE-SPOONFUL is frequently mentioned in a recipe, in the prescriptions of medical men, and also in medical, chemical, and gastronomical works. By it is generally meant and understood a measure or bulk equal to that which would be produced by half an ounce of water.
A tablespoonful is often referred to in recipes, in doctors' prescriptions, and in medical, chemical, and culinary texts. It typically means a measurement or volume equivalent to what would be produced by half an ounce of water.
A DESSERT-SPOONFUL is the half of a table-spoonful; that is to say, by it is meant a measure or bulk equal to a quarter of an ounce of water.
A DESSERT-SPOONFUL is half of a tablespoon. In other words, it refers to a measure or amount equal to a quarter of an ounce of water.
A TEA-SPOONFUL is equal in quantity to a drachm of water.
A teaspoon is equal in quantity to a drachm of water.
A DROP.—This is the name of a vague kind of measure, and is so called on account of the liquid being dropped from the mouth of a bottle. Its quantity, however, will vary, either from the consistency of the liquid or the size and shape of the mouth of the bottle. The College of Physicians determined the quantity of a drop to be one grain, 60 drops making one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth part of a fluid drachm, is called a minim.
A DROP.—This refers to an indefinite type of measure, named for the liquid being dropped from a bottle's opening. However, the amount can change, depending on the liquid's thickness or the size and shape of the bottle's opening. The College of Physicians defined a drop as one grain, with 60 drops equaling one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth of a fluid drachm, is called a minim.
[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
Graduated class measures can be obtained at any chemist's, and they save much trouble. One of these, containing a wine pint, is divided into 16 oz., and the oz, into 8 drachms of water; by which, any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can be accurately measured out. Home-made measures of this kind can readily be formed by weighing the water contained in any given measure, and marking on any tall glass the space it occupies. This mark can easily be made with a file. It will be interesting to many readers to know the basis on which the French found their system of weights and measures, for it certainly possesses the grandeur of simplicity. The metre, which is the basis of the whole system of French weights and measures, is the exact measurement of one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the earth.
You can get graduated measuring cups at any pharmacy, and they save a lot of hassle. One of these, holding a wine pint, is split into 16 ounces, and the ounces are divided into 8 drams of water; this way, you can accurately measure out any specific weight mentioned in a recipe. You can easily make homemade measuring cups like this by weighing the water in any given cup and marking on a tall glass where the water line is. You can make this mark with a file. Many readers will find it interesting to know how the French developed their system of weights and measures, which is impressively simple. The meter, the foundation of the entire French system of weights and measures, is precisely one forty-millionth of a meridian of the Earth.
78. EXCELLENCE IN THE ART OF COOKERY, as in all other things, is only attainable by practice and experience. In proportion, therefore, to the opportunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence in the art. It is in the large establishments of princes, noblemen, and very affluent families alone, that the man cook is found in this country. He, also, superintends the kitchens of large hotels, clubs, and public institutions, where he, usually, makes out the bills of fare, which are generally submitted to the principal for approval. To be able to do this, therefore, it is absolutely necessary that he should be a judge of the season of every dish, as well as know perfectly the state of every article he undertakes to prepare. He must also be a judge of every article he buys; for no skill, however great it may be, will enable him to, make that good which is really bad. On him rests the responsibility of the cooking generally, whilst a speciality of his department, is to prepare the rich soups, stews, ragouts, and such dishes as enter into the more refined and complicated portions of his art, and such as are not usually understood by ordinary professors. He, therefore, holds a high position in a household, being inferior in rank, as already shown (21), only to the house steward, the valet, and the butler.
78. EXCELLENCE IN COOKING, like in everything else, can only be achieved through practice and experience. Therefore, the more opportunities a cook has had for these, the better they will be at their craft. In this country, professional male chefs are typically found only in the large kitchens of princes, nobles, and very wealthy families. They also oversee the kitchens of big hotels, clubs, and public institutions, where they usually create the menus, which are often submitted to the head for approval. To do this well, it's essential for them to know the best season for each dish and to be fully aware of the quality of every ingredient they plan to use. They must also be skilled at evaluating every item they purchase; no amount of skill can make a poor ingredient good. The overall responsibility for cooking falls on them, with a specialty in preparing rich soups, stews, ragouts, and other sophisticated dishes that are not typically mastered by average cooks. As a result, they hold a prominent position in a household, ranking below only the house steward, the valet, and the butler.
In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity, Sicilian cooks were the most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services. Among them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art, that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the palmy days of Roman voluptuousness had about £800 a year, and Antony rewarded the one that cooked the supper which pleased Cleopatra, with the present of a city. With the fall of the empire, the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the middle ages, cooks laboured to acquire a reputation for their sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for the sake of novelty, as well as singularity.
In the luxurious times of ancient Greece, Sicilian chefs were highly regarded and received generous rewards for their skills. One of these chefs, named Trimalcio, was so talented that he could make ordinary fish taste and look like the finest seafood. A top chef during the height of Roman indulgence earned about £800 a year, and Antony even rewarded the chef who prepared a dinner that impressed Cleopatra with a city as a gift. After the fall of the empire, culinary arts became less prestigious. During the Middle Ages, chefs worked hard to gain recognition for their sauces, which they created using unusual combinations for the sake of novelty and uniqueness.
79. THE DUTIES OF THE COOK, THE KITCHEN AND THE SCULLERY MAIDS, are so intimately associated, that they can hardly be treated of separately. The cook, however, is at the head of the kitchen; and in proportion to her possession of the qualities of cleanliness, neatness, order, regularity, and celerity of action, so will her influence appear in the conduct of those who are under her; as it is upon her that the whole responsibility of the business of the kitchen rests, whilst the others must lend her, both a ready and a willing assistance, and be especially tidy in their appearance, and active, in their movements.
79. THE DUTIES OF THE COOK, THE KITCHEN AND THE SCULLERY MAIDS are so closely related that it's hard to discuss them separately. The cook, however, is in charge of the kitchen; and her ability to maintain cleanliness, neatness, order, regularity, and speed will greatly influence the behavior of those who work under her. The entire responsibility for the kitchen's operations falls on her, while the others need to provide both prompt and willing help, as well as present themselves in a tidy manner and be quick in their movements.
In the larger establishments of the middle ages, cooks, with the authority of feudal chiefs, gave their orders from a high chair in which they ensconced themselves, and commanded a view of all that was going on throughout their several domains. Each held a long wooden spoon, with which he tasted, without leaving his seat, the various comestibles that were cooking on the stoves, and which he frequently used as a rod of punishment on the backs of those whose idleness and gluttony too largely predominated over their diligence and temperance.
In the larger kitchens of the Middle Ages, cooks, with the authority of feudal leaders, gave their orders from a high chair where they positioned themselves, allowing them to oversee everything happening in their domains. Each held a long wooden spoon, which they used to taste the different dishes cooking on the stoves without leaving their seats, and they often used it to punish those whose laziness and greed outweighed their hard work and moderation.
80. IF, AS WE HAVE SAID (3), THE QUALITY OF EARLY RISING be of the first importance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant! Let it, therefore, be taken as a long-proved truism, that without it, in every domestic, the effect of all things else, so far as work is concerned, may, in a great measure, be neutralized. In a cook, this quality is most essential; for an hour lost in the morning, will keep her toiling, absolutely toiling, all day, to overtake that which might otherwise have been achieved with ease. In large establishments, six is a good hour to rise in the summer, and seven in the winter.
80. IF, AS WE HAVE SAID (3), THE IMPORTANCE OF EARLY RISING is crucial for the mistress, how essential must it be for the servant! So, let's accept it as a well-established truth that without it, in every household, the impact of everything else, in terms of work, can largely be canceled out. For a cook, this quality is especially important; losing just one hour in the morning will leave her working hard all day just to catch up on what could have been done easily. In large households, a wake-up time of six in the summer and seven in the winter is ideal.
81. HER FIRST DUTY, in large establishments and where it is requisite, should be to set her dough for the breakfast rolls, provided this has not been done on the previous night, and then to engage herself with those numerous little preliminary occupations which may not inappropriately be termed laying out her duties for the day. This will bring in the breakfast hour of eight, after which, directions must be given, and preparations made, for the different dinners of the household and family.
81. HER FIRST DUTY, in large establishments and where it's necessary, should be to prepare the dough for the breakfast rolls, unless this was done the night before, and then to focus on the many small tasks that can be considered organizing her responsibilities for the day. This will lead up to breakfast at eight, after which, instructions must be provided, and preparations made for the various dinners of the household and family.
82. IN THOSE NUMEROUS HOUSEHOLDS where a cook and housemaid are only kept, the general custom is, that the cook should have the charge of the dining-room. The hall, the lamps and the doorstep are also committed to her care, and any other work there may be on the outside of the house. In establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted her kitchen fire, carefully brushed the range, and cleaned the hearth, proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle, and, filling it with fresh water, will put it on the fire to boil. She will then go to the breakfast-room, or parlour, and there make all things ready for the breakfast of the family. Her attention will next be directed to the hall, which she will sweep and wipe; the kitchen stairs, if there be any, will now be swept; and the hall mats, which have been removed and shaken, will be again put in their places.
82. IN THOSE MANY HOUSEHOLDS where there’s just a cook and a housemaid, it's common for the cook to be in charge of the dining room. She’s also responsible for the hall, lamps, and doorstep, along with any other outdoor tasks. In these households, after lighting her kitchen fire, the cook will carefully clean the range and the hearth before preparing breakfast. She’ll thoroughly rinse the kettle, fill it with fresh water, and put it on the fire to boil. Then, she’ll head to the breakfast room or parlor to get everything ready for the family’s meal. Next, she’ll focus on the hall, sweeping and wiping it down; if there are any kitchen stairs, she’ll sweep those too, and the hall mats, which she has removed and shaken, will be put back in place.
The cleaning of the kitchen, pantry, passages, and kitchen stairs must always be over before breakfast, so that it may not interfere with the other business of the day. Everything should be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect when the heads of the house and members of the family make their appearance. Nothing, it may be depended on, will so please the mistress of an establishment, as to notice that, although she has not been present to see that the work was done, attention to smaller matters has been carefully paid, with a view to giving her satisfaction and increasing her comfort.
The kitchen, pantry, hallways, and kitchen stairs should always be cleaned before breakfast so that it doesn’t disrupt the day’s other activities. Everything should be ready, and the whole house should look inviting when the heads of the household and family members come down. You can be sure that nothing will please the mistress of the house more than noticing that even though she wasn’t there to supervise, attention to the little details was taken care of to make her happy and comfortable.
83. BY THE TIME THAT THE COOK has performed the duties mentioned above, and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast-bell will most likely summon her to the parlour, to "bring in" the breakfast. It is the cook's department, generally, in the smaller establishments, to wait at breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone up-stairs into the bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. The cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the early part of the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her more special business to speak, call at these hours.
83. BY THE TIME THE COOK has finished the tasks mentioned above, and has swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen properly, the breakfast bell will likely call her to the parlor to serve breakfast. In smaller households, it’s generally the cook’s job to handle breakfast service, since the housemaid has already gone upstairs to take care of her responsibilities in the bedrooms. The cook usually answers the bells and knocks at the door early in the morning because that’s when the tradespeople, who she needs to communicate with more directly, come by.
84. IT IS IN HER PREPARATION OF THE DINNER that the cook begins to feel the weight and responsibility of her situation, as she must take upon herself all the dressing and the serving of the principal dishes, which her skill and ingenuity have mostly prepared. Whilst these, however, are cooking, she must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, ragouts, &c. Stock, or what the French call consommé, being the basis of most made dishes, must be always at hand, in conjunction with her sweet herbs and spices for seasoning. "A place for everything, and everything in its place," must be her rule, in order that time may not be wasted in looking for things when they are wanted, and in order that the whole apparatus of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a well-adjusted machine;—all must go on simultaneously. The vegetables and sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and in order that they may be suitable, the smallest oversight must not be made in their preparation. When the dinner-hour has arrived, it is the duty of the cook to dish-up such dishes as may, without injury, stand, for some time, covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet; but such as are of a more important or recherché kind, must be delayed until the order "to serve" is given from the drawing-room. Then comes haste; but there must be no hurry,—all must work with order. The cook takes charge of the fish, soups, and poultry; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables, sauces, and gravies. These she puts into their appropriate dishes, whilst the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Everything must be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great care should be taken, that, between the first and second courses, no more time is allowed to elapse than is necessary, for fear that the company in the dining-room lose all relish for what has yet to come of the dinner. When the dinner has been served, the most important feature in the daily life of the cook is at an end. She must, however, now begin to look to the contents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the gravies, milk, or meat that may be there. These are the principal duties of a cook in a first-rate establishment.
84. IT IS IN HER PREPARATION OF THE DINNER that the cook starts to feel the weight and responsibility of her situation, as she has to handle all the dressing and serving of the main dishes, mostly prepared through her skill and creativity. While these are cooking, she must be busy with her pastries, soups, gravies, ragouts, etc. Stock, or what the French call consommé, is the basis of most dishes, and it must always be on hand, along with her herbs and spices for seasoning. "A place for everything, and everything in its place," must be her rule so that time isn't wasted looking for items when they're needed, allowing the whole cooking process to run as smoothly and efficiently as a well-tuned machine; everything must happen at once. The vegetables and sauces must be ready along with the dishes they accompany, and any small oversight in their preparation could affect their suitability. When dinner time arrives, it's the cook's duty to plate the dishes that can sit for a while, covered, on the hot plate or in the hot closet; but for more important or recherché dishes, she must wait until the order "to serve" is given from the drawing-room. Then comes urgency, but there must be no rush—everything must operate in an orderly manner. The cook manages the fish, soups, and poultry, while the kitchen maid handles the vegetables, sauces, and gravies. She places these in their respective dishes, while the scullery maid supports the cook. Everything needs to be timed so it doesn’t get cold, and great care should be taken to ensure that no unnecessary time elapses between the first and second courses, to prevent the guests in the dining room from losing their appetite for the rest of the meal. Once dinner is served, the most crucial part of the cook's day is over. However, she must now begin to check the contents of her pantry, ensuring everything is fresh and clean, so that no unpleasant odors arise from the gravies, milk, or meat stored there. These are the main duties of a cook in a top-notch establishment.
In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often conducts the higher department of cooking (see 58, 59, 60), and the cook, with the assistance of a scullery-maid, performs some of the subordinate duties of the kitchen-maid.
In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often oversees the main cooking duties (see 58, 59, 60), while the cook, with help from a kitchen assistant, handles some of the lesser tasks of the kitchen staff.
When circumstances render it necessary, the cook engages to perform the whole of the work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the house-work also.
When needed, the cook agrees to handle all the kitchen work and, in some homes, part of the housework too.
85. WHILST THE COOK IS ENGAGED WITH HER MORNING DUTIES, the kitchen-maid is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen, and the various offices belonging to it. This she does every morning, besides cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs which lead to the kitchen. Her general duties, besides these, are to wash and scour all these places twice a week, with the tables, shelves, and cupboards. She has also to dress the nursery and servants'-hall dinners, to prepare all fish, poultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and cutlets, and do all such duties as may be considered to enter into the cook's department in a subordinate degree.
85. WHILE THE COOK IS BUSY WITH HER MORNING TASKS, the kitchen maid is also engaged with hers. After lighting the fire, her first job is to sweep and clean the kitchen and its various areas. She does this every morning, along with cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house, the hallways, passages, and the stairs leading to the kitchen. In addition to these tasks, she washes and scrubs all these areas twice a week, along with the tables, shelves, and cupboards. She also prepares the dinners for the nursery and the servants' hall, gets all the fish, poultry, and vegetables ready, trims meat joints and cutlets, and handles all other duties that fall under the cook’s purview in a supporting role.
86. THE DUTIES OF THE SCULLERY-MAID are to assist the cook; to keep the scullery clean, and all the metallic as well as earthenware kitchen utensils.
86. THE DUTIES OF THE SCULLERY-MAID are to help the cook, keep the scullery clean, and maintain all the metal and ceramic kitchen utensils.
The position of scullery-maid is not, of course, one of high rank, nor is the payment for her services large. But if she be fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-maid and clever cook, she may very soon learn to perform various little duties connected with cooking operations, which may be of considerable service in fitting her for a more responsible place. Now, it will be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers, that the fascinations connected with the position of the scullery-maid, are not so great as to induce many people to leave a comfortable home in order to work in a scullery. But we are acquainted with one instance in which the desire, on the part of a young girl, was so strong to become connected with the kitchen and cookery, that she absolutely left her parents, and engaged herself as a scullery-maid in a gentleman's house. Here she showed herself so active and intelligent, that she very quickly rose to the rank of kitchen-maid; and from this, so great was her gastronomical genius, she became, in a short space of time, one of the best women-cooks in England. After this, we think, it must be allowed, that a cook, like a poet, nascitur, non fit.
The job of a scullery maid isn’t exactly prestigious, and the pay isn’t great. However, if she’s lucky enough to have a good kitchen maid and a skilled cook supervising her, she can quickly learn various small tasks related to cooking that will help her advance to a more important position. Many of our readers might think that the charm of being a scullery maid isn’t enough to make anyone leave a comfortable home for that kind of work. But we know of one case where a young girl was so eager to be involved in cooking that she actually left her parents and took a job as a scullery maid in a gentleman’s house. There, she proved to be so energetic and smart that she quickly moved up to the role of kitchen maid; and because of her exceptional cooking skills, she soon became one of the best female chefs in England. After this, we think it’s fair to say that a cook, like a poet, nascitur, non fit.
87. MODERN COOKERY stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic propensities of our French neighbours, that many of their terms are adopted and applied by English artists to the same as well as similar preparations of their own. A vocabulary of these is, therefore, indispensable in a work of this kind. Accordingly, the following will be found sufficiently complete for all ordinary purposes:—
87. MODERN COOKERY owes a lot to the cooking habits of our French neighbors, so much so that many of their terms are used by English chefs for similar dishes. A list of these terms is essential for a book like this. Therefore, the following will be comprehensive enough for all everyday needs:—
EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.
ASPIC.—A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game, poultry, fish, &c. This, being of a transparent nature, allows the bird which it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used for decorating or garnishing.
ASPIC.—A savory jelly used as an outer layer for cold game, poultry, fish, etc. Being transparent, it lets you see the bird underneath it. It can also be used for decorating or garnishing.
ASSIETTE (plate).—Assiettes are the small entrées and hors-d'oeuvres, the quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c., if served upon a plate, are termed assiettes.—ASSIETTE VOLANTE is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed upon the table. Small cheese soufflés and different dishes, which ought to be served very hot, are frequently made assielles volantes.
ASSIETTE (plate).—Assiettes are the small entrées and hors-d'oeuvres, and their quantity does not exceed what a plate can hold. For dessert, fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, etc., if served on a plate, are called assiettes.—ASSIETTE VOLANTE is a dish that a server passes around to the guests but does not place on the table. Small cheese soufflés and various dishes that need to be served very hot are often made as assielles volantes.
AU-BLEU.—Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance.
AU-BLEU.—Fish prepared in a way that gives it a bluish look.
BAIN-MARIE.—An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very useful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity or quality. If you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces; but this is prevented by using the bain-marie, in which the water should be very hot, but not boiling.
BAIN-MARIE.—An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, where a smaller container can be placed for cooking and warming. This is really helpful for keeping items hot without changing their quantity or quality. If you leave sauce, broth, or soup by the fire, the soup reduces and gets too strong, and the sauce thickens and reduces as well; but this is avoided by using the bain-marie, where the water should be very hot, but not boiling.
BÉCHAMEL.—French white sauce, now frequently used in English cookery.
BÉCHAMEL.—A French white sauce that's now commonly used in English cooking.
BLANCH.—To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, &c., by plunging them into boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging them into cold water, there to remain until they are cold.
BLANCH.—To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, etc., by submerging them in boiling water for a brief period, then transferring them to cold water to cool completely.
BLANQUETTE.—A sort of fricassee.
BLANQUETTE.—A type of stew.
BOUILLI.—Beef or other meat boiled; but, generally speaking, boiled beef is understood by the term.
BOUILLI.—Beef or other meat that has been boiled; typically, when people say "bouilli," they are referring to boiled beef.
BOUILLIE.—A French dish resembling hasty-pudding.
BOUILLIE.—A French dish like porridge.
BOUILLON.—A thin broth or soup.
Broth.—A thin broth or soup.
BRAISE.—To stew meat with fat bacon until it is tender, it having previously been blanched.
BRAISE.—To cook meat slowly with fatty bacon until it’s tender, after it has been blanched.
BRAISIÈRE.—A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top.
BRAISIÈRE.—A saucepan with a lid that has ledges for placing fire on top.
BRIDER.—To pass a packthread through poultry, game, &c., to keep together their members.
BRIDER.—To thread a packline through poultry, game, etc., to hold their parts together.
CARAMEL (burnt sugar).—This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size of a nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan; upon which a cupful of stock is gradually poured, stirring all the time a glass of broth, little by little. It may be used with the feather of a quill, to colour meats, such as the upper part of fricandeaux; and to impart colour to sauces. Caramel made with water instead of stock may be used to colour compôtes and other entremets.
CARAMEL (burnt sugar).—This is made by browning a piece of sugar, about the size of a nut, in the bottom of a saucepan. Gradually pour in a cup of stock while stirring continuously, adding the broth little by little. It can be used with a quill feather to color meats, like the top part of fricandeaux, and to add color to sauces. Caramel made with water instead of stock can be used to color compôtes and other entremets.
CASSEROLE.—A crust of rice, which, after having been moulded into the form of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white meat or a purée of game.
CASSEROLE.—A crust of rice, shaped like a pie, is baked and then filled with a mix of white meat or a purée of game.
COMPOTE.—A stew, as of fruit or pigeons.
COMPOTE.—A stew made from fruit or pigeons.
CONSOMMÉ.—Rich stock, or gravy.
BROTH.—Rich stock or gravy.
CROQUETTE.—Ball of fried rice or potatoes.
CROQUETTE.—Fried rice or potato ball.
CROUTONS.—Sippets of bread.
CROUTONS.—Bread cubes.
DAUBIÈRE.—An oval stewpan, in which daubes are cooked; daubes being meat or fowl stewed in sauce.
DAUBIÈRE.—An oval cooking pot, where daubes are made; daubes are meat or poultry simmered in sauce.
DÉSOSSER.—To bone, or take out the bones from poultry, game, or fish.
This is an operation requiring considerable experience.
DÉSOSSER.—To bone, or remove the bones from poultry, game, or fish.
This is a task that needs a lot of experience.
ENTRÉES.—Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course.
ENTRÉES.—Small side dishes or corner servings, served with the first course.
ENTREMETS.—Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course.
ENTREMETS.—Small side or corner dishes served with the main course.
ESCALOPES.—Collops; small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or of fish, beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender.
ESCALOPES.—Collops; small, round, thin slices of tender meat or fish, pounded with the handle of a sturdy knife to make them tender.
FEUILLETAGE.—Puff-paste.
Puff pastry.
FLAMBER.—To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked.
FLAMBER.—To singe poultry or game after they have been plucked.
FONCER.—To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin broad slices of bacon.
FONCER.—To lay slices of ham, veal, or thin strips of bacon at the bottom of a saucepan.
GALETTE.—A broad thin cake.
GALETTE.—A flat, thin cake.
GÂTEAU.—A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to denote a pudding and a kind of tart.
GÂTEAU.—A cake, to be precise; but it's sometimes used to refer to a pudding and a type of tart.
GLACER.—To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick and rich sauce or gravy, called glaze. This is laid on with a feather or brush, and in confectionary the term means to ice fruits and pastry with sugar, which glistens on hardening.
GLACER.—To coat or apply a thick and rich sauce or gravy, called glaze, on hot meats or stuffed poultry. This is done with a feather or brush, and in baking, the term refers to icing fruits and pastries with sugar, which shines when it hardens.
HORS-D'OEUVRES.—Small dishes, or assiettes volantes of sardines, anchovies, and other relishes of this kind, served to the guests during the first course. (See ASSIETTES VOLANTES.)
HORS-D'OEUVRES.—Small dishes, or assiettes volantes, of sardines, anchovies, and other similar appetizers served to guests during the first course. (See ASSIETTES VOLANTES.)
LIT.—A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in layers, other articles, or seasoning, being laid between them.
LIT.—A bed or layer; items are arranged in thin slices, with other items or seasonings placed between them.
MAIGRE.—Broth, soup, or gravy, made without meat.
MAIGRE.—Broth, soup, or gravy made without any meat.
MATELOTE.—A rich fish-stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels, trout, or barbel. It is made with wine.
MATELOTE.—A hearty fish stew, typically made with carp, eels, trout, or barbel. It's prepared with wine.
MAYONNAISE.—Cold sauce, or salad dressing.
MAYONNAISE.—Cold sauce or dressing.
MENU.—The bill of fare.
MENU.—The menu.
MERINGUE.—A kind of icing, made of whites of eggs and sugar, well beaten.
MERINGUE.—A type of icing made from beaten egg whites and sugar.
MIROTON.—Larger slices of meat than collops; such as slices of beef for a vinaigrette, or ragout or stew of onions.
MIROTON.—Bigger pieces of meat than small cuts; like slices of beef for a vinaigrette, or a ragout or stew with onions.
MOUILLER.—To add water, broth, or other liquid, during the cooking.
MOUILLER.—To add water, broth, or another liquid while cooking.
PANER.—To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meats, or any other articles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying-pan.
PANER.—To coat with very fine bread crumbs, meats, or any other items to be cooked on the grill, in the oven, or in a frying pan.
PIQUER.—To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meat, &c. This should always be done according to the vein of the meat, so that in carving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat.
PIQUER.—To insert strips of fat bacon into poultry, game, meat, etc. This should always be done following the grain of the meat, so that when you carve it, you cut through the bacon as well as the meat.
POÊLÉE.—Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads, fowls, and vegetables, to render them less insipid. This is rather an expensive preparation.
POÊLÉE.—Broth used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads, chickens, and vegetables, to make them more flavorful. This is quite an expensive preparation.
PURÉE.—Vegetables, or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp, which is afterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of very thick soup.
PURÉE.—Vegetables or meat that have been blended into a very smooth paste, which is then combined with enough liquid to reach the consistency of a thick soup.
RAGOUT.—Stew or hash.
RAGOUT.—Stew or hash.
REMOULADE.—Salad dressing.
Remoulade—Salad dressing.
RISSOLES.—Pastry, made of light puff-paste, and cut into various forms, and fried. They may be filled with fish, meat, or sweets.
RISSOLES.—Pastry made from light puff pastry, shaped into various forms, and fried. They can be filled with fish, meat, or sweets.
ROUX.—Brown and white; French thickening.
Roux — Brown and white; French thickener.
SALMI.—Ragout of game previously roasted.
SALMI.—Game stew from roasted meat.
SAUCE PIQUANTE.—A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar flavour predominates.
SAUCE PIQUANTE.—A tangy sauce that has a noticeable vinegar flavor.
SAUTER.—To dress with sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it about.
SAUTER.—To cook with sauce in a pan, stirring it frequently.
TAMIS.—Tammy, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain broth and sauces, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, &c.
TAMIS.—Tammy, a kind of open cloth or strainer used to filter broth and sauces, removing small bones, foam, etc.
TOURTE.—Tart. Fruit pie.
Fruit tart.
TROUSSER.—To truss a bird; to put together the body and tie the wings and thighs, in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each being tied then with packthread, to keep it in the required form.
TROUSSER.—To truss a bird; to secure the body and tie the wings and thighs together, so it maintains a rounded shape for roasting or boiling, each tied with kitchen twine to keep it in the needed form.
VOL-AU-VENT.—A rich crust of very fine puff-paste, which may be filled with various delicate ragouts or fricassees, of fish, flesh, or fowl. Fruit may also be inclosed in a vol-au-vent.
VOL-AU-VENT.—A rich crust of very fine puff pastry, which can be filled with various delicate stews or casseroles of fish, meat, or poultry. Fruit can also be included in a vol-au-vent.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
SOUPS.
CHAPTER V.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS.
88. LEAN, JUICY BEEF, MUTTON, AND VEAL, form the basis of all good soups; therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat renders them bad, and fat is not so well adapted for making them. The principal art in composing good rich soup, is so to proportion the several ingredients that the flavour of one shall not predominate over another, and that all the articles of which it is composed, shall form an agreeable whole. To accomplish this, care must be taken that the roots and herbs are perfectly well cleaned, and that the water is proportioned to the quantity of meat and other ingredients. Generally a quart of water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and half the quantity for gravies. In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is incomparably the best. It may be remarked, however, that a really good soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel, although, perhaps, greater wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the air. Soups will, in general, take from three to six hours doing, and are much better prepared the day before they are wanted. When the soup is cold, the fat may be much more easily and completely removed; and when it is poured off, care must be taken not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through a sieve. A tamis is the best strainer, and if the soup is strained while it is hot, let the tamis or cloth be previously soaked in cold water. Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about the consistence of cream. To thicken and give body to soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread-raspings, isinglass, flour and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water rubbed well together, are used. A piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp, with a bit of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually incorporated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When the soup appears to be too thin or too weak, the cover of the boiler should be taken off, and the contents allowed to boil till some of the watery parts have evaporated; or some of the thickening materials, above mentioned, should be added. When soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate weather, every other day may be sufficient.
88. Lean, juicy beef, mutton, and veal are the foundation of all great soups, so it’s best to get fresh cuts that are flavorful. Stale meat makes soup taste bad, and fatty cuts aren’t ideal for making it. The key to creating a rich soup is to balance the ingredients so that no one flavor overpowers the others, and all the components work together harmoniously. To achieve this, ensure that the roots and herbs are properly cleaned, and that the water is matched to the amount of meat and other ingredients. Generally, use about a quart of water for every pound of meat for soups, and half that for gravies. When making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or simmering is by far the best method. It's worth noting that a truly good soup can only be made in a well-sealed pot, although exposing it to air occasionally may improve its healthiness. Soups usually take three to six hours to cook and are much better if made the day before serving. Once the soup cools, the fat can be removed more easily, and when pouring it off, be careful not to disturb the fine bits that settle at the bottom, as they will fall through a sieve. A tamis is the best strainer, and if straining hot soup, soak the tamis or cloth in cold water first. Clear soups should be completely transparent, while thick soups should have a consistency similar to cream. To thicken and add body to soups and gravies, you can use potato starch, arrowroot, bread crumbs, gelatin, flour and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal mixed with a bit of water. A piece of boiled beef pounded into a paste with some butter and flour, then strained and slowly mixed into the soup, makes an excellent addition. If the soup seems too thin or weak, remove the cover of the pot and let it boil until some of the liquid evaporates, or add some of the thickening ingredients mentioned earlier. When storing soups and gravies in hot weather, warm them up daily and transfer them to freshly scalded pans or tureens, placing them in a cool cellar. In milder weather, doing this every other day should be enough.
89. VARIOUS HERBS AND VEGETABLES are required for the purpose of making soups and gravies. Of these the principal are,—Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread-raspings, pease, beans, rice, vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroom ketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic, shalots, and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till they are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the basis of many of the fine relishes furnished by the cook. The older and drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, or burnet vinegar; celery or celery-seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable; and when used as a substitute, its flavour should be corrected by the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed, parsley, common thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter savoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be procured, and its fine flavour is soon lost, the best way of preserving the extract is by pouring wine on the fresh leaves.
89. VARIOUS HERBS AND VEGETABLES are needed for making soups and sauces. The main ones include Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, breadcrumbs, peas, beans, rice, vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato starch, mushroom or mushroom ketchup, mushrooms, parsnips, carrots, beets, turnips, garlic, shallots, and onions. Sliced onions, sautéed in butter and flour until browned, then strained through a sieve, are great for enhancing the color and flavor of brown soups and sauces, forming the base of many delicious dishes prepared by the chef. The older and drier the onion, the stronger its flavor will be. Leeks, cucumber, or burnet vinegar; celery or crushed celery seeds. The latter, while equally strong, lacks the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable, so if used as a substitute, a bit of sugar should be added to balance the flavor. Cress seeds, parsley, common thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter savory, and basil. Since fresh green basil is rarely available and its flavor fades quickly, the best way to preserve its essence is by soaking the fresh leaves in wine.
90. FOR THE SEASONING OF SOUPS, bay-leaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and white pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juice, and Seville orange-juice, are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than the lemon, and the acid is much milder. These materials, with wine, mushroom ketchup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, combined in various proportions, are, with other ingredients, manipulated into an almost endless variety of excellent soups and gravies. Soups, which are intended to constitute the principal part of a meal, certainly ought not to be flavoured like sauces, which are only designed to give a relish to some particular dish.
90. TO SEASON SOUPS, use bay leaves, tomatoes, tarragon, chervil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, mace, black and white pepper, anchovy essence, lemon peel, lemon juice, and Seville orange juice. The latter provides a better flavor than lemon, and its acidity is much milder. These ingredients, along with wine, mushroom ketchup, Harvey's sauce, and tomato sauce, mixed in various amounts, can create almost endless varieties of delicious soups and gravies. Soups meant to be the main part of a meal should not be seasoned like sauces, which are just meant to enhance a specific dish.
SOUP, BROTH AND BOUILLON.
91. IT HAS BEEN ASSERTED, that English cookery is, nationally speaking, far from being the best in the world. More than this, we have been frequently told by brilliant foreign writers, half philosophers, half chefs, that we are the worst cooks on the face of the earth, and that the proverb which alludes to the divine origin of food, and the precisely opposite origin of its preparers, is peculiarly applicable to us islanders. Not, however, to the inhabitants of the whole island; for, it is stated in a work which treats of culinary operations, north of the Tweed, that the "broth" of Scotland claims, for excellence and wholesomeness, a very close second place to the bouillon, or common soup of France. "Three hot meals of broth and meat, for about the price of ONE roasting joint," our Scottish brothers and sisters get, they say; and we hasten to assent to what we think is now a very well-ascertained fact. We are glad to note, however, that soups of vegetables, fish, meat, and game, are now very frequently found in the homes of the English middle classes, as well as in the mansions of the wealthier and more aristocratic; and we take this to be one evidence, that we are on the right road to an improvement in our system of cookery. One great cause of many of the spoilt dishes and badly-cooked meats which are brought to our tables, arises, we think, and most will agree with us, from a non-acquaintance with "common, every-day things." Entertaining this view, we intend to preface the chapters of this work with a simple scientific résumé of all those causes and circumstances which relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory and chemistry of the various culinary operations. Accordingly, this is the proper place to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, and describe some of the circumstances which influence it for good or bad. We will, therefore, commence with the circumstance of age, and examine how far this affects the quality of meat.
91. IT HAS BEEN SAID that English cooking is, nationally speaking, far from being the best in the world. Moreover, we've often heard from brilliant foreign writers, part philosophers and part chefs, that we are the worst cooks on the planet, and that the saying referring to the divine origin of food, and the completely opposite origin of those who prepare it, especially applies to us islanders. However, this doesn’t apply to everyone on the island; because, according to a work discussing cooking in the north of the Tweed, the "broth" of Scotland is said to be a very close second to the bouillon or basic soup of France in terms of quality and healthiness. "Three hot meals of broth and meat for about the price of ONE roasting joint," our Scottish siblings tell us; and we quickly agree that this is now a well-established fact. We are pleased to see that soups made from vegetables, fish, meat, and game are now commonly found in the homes of the English middle classes, as well as in the mansions of the wealthy and aristocratic; and we view this as evidence that we are on the right track to improving our cooking methods. One major reason for many of the ruined dishes and poorly cooked meats served at our tables, we believe—and most will likely agree—is a lack of familiarity with "common, everyday things." With this perspective in mind, we plan to start the chapters of this work with a simple scientific résumé of all the causes and factors related to the food we need to prepare, along with the theory and chemistry behind various cooking processes. Therefore, this is the appropriate place to discuss the quality of the flesh of animals and describe some factors that can affect it for better or worse. We will begin with the factor of age, and examine how it influences the quality of meat.
92. DURING THE PERIOD BETWEEN THE BIRTH AND MATURITY OF ANIMALS, their flesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the animal is young, the fluids which the tissues of the muscles contain, possess a large proportion of what is called albumen. This albumen, which is also the chief component of the white of eggs, possesses the peculiarity of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature, like the white of a boiled egg, into a soft, white fluid, no longer soluble, or capable of being dissolved in water. As animals grow older, this peculiar animal matter gradually decreases, in proportion to the other constituents of the juice of the flesh. Thus, the reason why veal, lamb, and young pork are white, and without gravy when cooked, is, that the large quantity of albumen they contain hardens, or becomes coagulated. On the other hand, the reason why beef and mutton are brown, and have gravy, is, that the proportion of albumen they contain, is small, in comparison with their greater quantity of fluid which is soluble, and not coagulable.
92. DURING THE TIME BETWEEN THE BIRTH AND MATURITY OF ANIMALS, their flesh goes through significant changes. For example, when the animal is young, the fluids in the muscle tissues have a high amount of what is called albumen. This albumen, which is also the main part of egg whites, has the unique quality of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature, similar to the white of a boiled egg, into a soft, white substance that no longer dissolves in water. As animals get older, this specific animal matter gradually decreases compared to the other components of the flesh's juice. Thus, the reason why veal, lamb, and young pork are white, and without gravy when cooked is that the large amount of albumen they have hardens or coagulates. On the other hand, the reason why beef and mutton are brown, and have gravy is that the amount of albumen they contain is small in comparison to the larger amount of fluid that is soluble and not coagulable.
93. THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH OF AN ANIMAL is considerably influenced by the nature of the food on which it has been fed; for the food supplies the material which produces the flesh. If the food be not suitable and good, the meat cannot be good either; just as the paper on which these words are printed, could not be good, if the rags from which it is made, were not of a fine quality. To the experienced in this matter, it is well known that the flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce, such as corn, pulse, &c., is firm, well-flavoured, and also economical in the cooking; that the flesh of those fed on succulent and pulpy substances, such as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree; whilst the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is greasy, high coloured, and gross in the fat, and if the food has been used in large quantities, possessed of a rank flavour.
93. THE QUALITY OF AN ANIMAL'S MEAT is greatly affected by the type of food it has been fed; because the food provides the material that creates the meat. If the food isn’t good and suitable, then the meat can’t be good either; just like the paper these words are printed on wouldn’t be good if the rags used to make it weren’t of high quality. Those who are knowledgeable in this area know that the meat of animals fed on grain-based foods, like corn and legumes, is firm, flavorful, and also cooks well; whereas the meat of those fed on juicy and soft foods, like roots, has these qualities to a lesser extent; and the meat of animals that eat foods high in fixed oil, like linseed, tends to be greasy, overly colored, and heavy in fat, and if the food is eaten in large amounts, it may have a strong flavor.
94. IT IS INDISPENSABLE TO THE GOOD QUALITY OF MEAT, that the animal should be perfectly healthy at the time of its slaughter. However slight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality of its flesh, as food, is certain to be produced. In most cases, indeed, as the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction, it becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous, on account of the absorption of the virus of the unsound meat into the systems of those who partake of it. The external indications of good and bad meat will be described under its own particular head, but we may here premise that the layer of all wholesome meat, when freshly killed, adheres firmly to the bone.
94. IT IS ESSENTIAL FOR GOOD QUALITY MEAT that the animal should be perfectly healthy at the time of its slaughter. Even a minor illness in an animal can negatively affect the quality of its flesh as food. In many cases, the flesh of diseased animals tends to decay very quickly, making it not just unwholesome but absolutely poisonous due to the absorption of the virus from the spoiled meat into the systems of those who consume it. The external signs of good and bad meat will be described under its own specific section, but we can note here that the layer of all healthy meat, when freshly killed, sticks tightly to the bone.
95. ANOTHER CIRCUMSTANCE GREATLY AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF MEAT, is the animal's treatment before it is slaughtered. This influences its value and wholesomeness in no inconsiderable degree. It will be easy to understand this, when we reflect on those leading principles by which the life of an animal is supported and maintained. These are, the digestion of its food, and the assimilation of that food into its substance. Nature, in effecting this process, first reduces the food in the stomach to a state of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passes into the intestines, and is there divided into two principles, each distinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid,—the nutritive portion,—is absorbed by innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous membrane, or inner coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents, discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is conveyed to the large veins in the neighbourhood of the heart. Here it is mixed with the venous blood (which is black and impure) returning from every part of the body, and then it supplies the waste which is occasioned in the circulating stream by the arterial (or pure) blood having furnished matter for the substance of the animal. The blood of the animal having completed its course through all parts, and having had its waste recruited by the digested food, is now received into the heart, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs, there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales. Again returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, and thence distributed, by innumerable ramifications, called capillaries, bestowing to every part of the animal, life and nutriment. The other principle—the innutritive portion—passes from the intestines, and is thus got rid of. It will now be readily understood how flesh is affected for bad, if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its blood has been increased by over-driving, ill-usage, or other causes of excitement, to such a degree of rapidity as to be too great for the capillaries to perform their functions, and causing the blood to be congealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has been the case, the meat will be dark-coloured, and become rapidly putrid; so that self-interest and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animals destined to serve as food for man.
95. ANOTHER FACTOR SIGNIFICANTLY IMPACTING THE QUALITY OF MEAT is the animal's treatment before it is slaughtered. This greatly affects its value and wholesomeness. It's easy to understand this when we consider the basic principles that support and maintain an animal's life. These include the digestion of its food and the assimilation of that food into its body. Nature begins this process by breaking down food in the stomach into a pulp called chyme, which then moves into the intestines, where it's separated into two components, each distinct from the other. One component is a milk-white fluid—the nutritive portion—which is absorbed by countless vessels that open onto the inner lining of the intestines. These vessels, known as absorbents, release the fluid into a common duct that delivers it to the large veins near the heart. Here, it mixes with the venous blood (which is dark and impure) returning from all parts of the body, replenishing the waste created in the circulating blood due to the arterial (or pure) blood providing substances needed by the animal. After completing its journey through the body and having its waste replenished with digested food, the blood is received into the heart, where it is pumped through the lungs to be purified by the air the animal breathes. Returning to the heart again, it's pushed through the arteries and distributed via countless tiny branches called capillaries, providing life and nourishment to every part of the animal. The other component—the non-nutritive portion—moves out of the intestines and is eliminated. It’s easy to see how meat can be negatively affected if an animal is slaughtered when its blood circulation has been hastened due to overexertion, mistreatment, or other sources of stress, making it too rapid for the capillaries to function properly, resulting in blood clots in the smaller vessels. In such cases, the meat will be dark in color and spoil quickly; thus, both self-interest and compassion call for kind and gentle treatment of all animals intended for human consumption.
THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING.
96. STOCK BEING THE BASIS of all meat soups, and, also, of all the principal sauces, it is essential to the success of these culinary operations, to know the most complete and economical method of extracting, from a certain quantity of meat, the best possible stock or broth. The theory and philosophy of this process we will, therefore, explain, and then proceed to show the practical course to be adopted.
96. STOCK IS THE FOUNDATION of all meat soups and the main sauces, so it's crucial to know the most efficient and cost-effective way to extract the best stock or broth from a specific amount of meat. We'll explain the theory and principles of this process, and then we'll outline the practical steps to follow.
97. AS ALL MEAT is principally composed of fibres, fat, gelatine, osmazome, and albumen, it is requisite to know that the FIBRES are inseparable, constituting almost all that remains of the meat after it has undergone a long boiling.
97. Since all meat is mainly made up of fibers, fat, gelatin, osmazome, and albumin, it's important to understand that the FIBERS are inseparable and make up almost everything that’s left after the meat has been boiled for a long time.
98. FAT is dissolved by boiling; but as it is contained in cells covered by a very fine membrane, which never dissolves, a portion of it always adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the surface of the stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which were not whole, or which have burst by boiling.
98. Fat dissolves when boiled; however, since it’s found in cells covered by a very fine membrane that never dissolves, a part of it always sticks to the fibers. The other part floats to the surface of the stock and comes from the cells that were not intact or that burst during boiling.
99. GELATINE is soluble: it is the basis and the nutritious portion of the stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to become a jelly.
99. Gelatin is soluble: it’s the foundation and the nutritious part of the broth. When there’s a lot of it, it makes the broth turn into jelly when it cools down.
100. OSMAZOME is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the meat which gives flavour and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals contains more osmazome than that of young ones. Brown meats contain more than white, and the former make the stock more fragrant. By roasting meat, the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties; so, by putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you obtain a better flavour.
100. OSMAZOME dissolves even when cold, and it’s the part of the meat that adds flavor and aroma to the broth. The meat from older animals has more osmazome than that from younger ones. Darker meats have more than lighter ones, and the darker meats make the broth more aromatic. By roasting meat, the osmazome seems to gain enhanced qualities; therefore, by adding the leftovers of roasted meats to your stock pot, you create a better flavor.
101. ALBUMEN is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolved in cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water not quite at the boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it is evident that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, or after this is made to boil up quickly, the albumen, in both cases, hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from dissolving; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire that degree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it.
101. ALBUMEN is similar to egg whites; it can dissolve in cold or warm water, but it clumps together when placed in water that's almost boiling. Because of this property, it’s clear that if the meat is added to the stock pot when the water is boiling, or if the water quickly comes to a boil afterward, the albumen hardens in both situations. In the first case, it floats to the surface, and in the second, it stays in the meat, but in both cases, it stops the gelatine and osmazome from dissolving, resulting in a thin and flavorless stock. It should also be noted that the coagulation of albumen in the meat varies depending on the size of the piece, as the parts farthest from the surface often reach a temperature that causes it to congeal before completely dissolving.
102. BONES ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot. They are composed of an earthy substance,—to which they owe their solidity,—of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them contain as much gelatine as one pound of meat; but in them, this is so incased in the earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface of whole bones. By breaking them, however, you can dissolve more, because you multiply their surfaces; and by reducing them to powder or paste, you can dissolve them entirely; but you must not grind them dry. We have said (99) that gelatine forms the basis of stock; but this, though very nourishing, is entirely without taste; and to make the stock savoury, it must contain osmazome. Of this, bones do not contain a particle; and that is the reason why stock made entirely of them, is not liked; but when you add meat to the broken or pulverized bones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock sufficiently savoury.
102. Bones should always be a part of the stockpot. They're made up of a solid material that gives them their strength, along with gelatin and a fatty substance similar to marrow. Two ounces of bone provide as much gelatin as one pound of meat, but in bones, this gelatin is trapped in the solid material, so boiling water can only dissolve the outer layer of whole bones. By breaking them, you can release more gelatin because you increase the surface area; grinding them into powder or paste allows you to dissolve them completely, but avoid grinding them when they're dry. We mentioned (99) that gelatin is essential for making stock; however, while it's very nourishing, it has no flavor on its own. To make the stock tasty, it needs to include osmazome. Since bones contain none of this, stock made solely with bones isn't very appealing; but when you add meat to the broken or ground bones, the osmazome in the meat makes the stock flavorful enough.
103. In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensed hints and directions should be attended to in the economy of soup-making:—
103. To wrap up this section of our topic, please pay attention to the following brief tips and guidelines for the art of making soup:—
I. BEEF MAKES THE BEST STOCK; veal stock has less colour and taste; whilst mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell, far from agreeable, unless the meat has been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls add very little to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, when they are old, add the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or partridge is also a great improvement. From the freshest meat the best stock is obtained.
I. BEEF MAKES THE BEST STOCK; veal stock has less color and flavor; while mutton can sometimes make it smell greasy, which isn't very pleasant, unless the meat was roasted or broiled first. Chickens don’t add much to the flavor of stock, unless they are old and fatty. Older pigeons contribute the most flavor; rabbits or partridges can also make a big difference. The best stock comes from the freshest meat.
II. IF THE MEAT BE BOILED solely to make stock, it must be cut up into the smallest possible pieces; but, generally speaking, if it is desired to have good stock and a piece of savoury meat as well, it is necessary to put a rather large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient for two or three days, during which time the stock will keep well in all weathers. Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick as possible; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, and will be very soon spoiled by the boiling.
II. IF THE MEAT IS BOILED just to make stock, it should be cut into the smallest pieces possible; however, if you want to have good stock and a tasty piece of meat too, it's best to put in a larger piece, enough for two or three days, which will keep well in all weather. Choose the freshest meat, and have it cut as thick as you can; if it’s a thin, flat piece, it won’t look appealing and will spoil quickly from boiling.
III. NEVER WASH MEAT, as it deprives its surface of all its juices; separate it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its shape may be preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each pound of meat, let there be one pint of water; press it down with the hand, to allow the air, which it contains, to escape, and which often raises it to the top of the water.
III. NEVER WASH MEAT, as it removes all its juices from the surface; separate it from the bones, and wrap it with string to keep its shape, then put it into the stockpot. For each pound of meat, use one pint of water; press it down with your hand to let the air escape, which often makes it float to the top of the water.
IV. PUT THE STOCK-POT ON A GENTLE FIRE, so that it may heat gradually. The albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate; and as it is in this state lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface; bringing with it all its impurities. It is this which makes the scum. The rising of the hardened albumen has the same effect in clarifying stock as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it may be said that the more scum there is, the clearer will be the stock. Always take care that the fire is very regular.
IV. PUT THE STOCK POT ON A LOW HEAT so it can warm up slowly. The albumen will first dissolve and then solidify; when it's in this state, it's lighter than the liquid, so it will float to the top, taking all its impurities with it. This is what creates the scum. The solidified albumen clarifies the stock just like egg whites do; generally, the more scum there is, the clearer the stock will be. Always make sure the heat is consistent.
V. REMOVE THE SCUM when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil, because then one portion of the scum will be dissolved, and the other go to the bottom of the pot; thus rendering it very difficult to obtain a clear broth. If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary to add cold water in order to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too large at first, it will then be necessary to do so.
V. REMOVE THE SCUM when it rises heavily, and do not let the stock boil, because then some of the scum will dissolve, while the rest will sink to the bottom of the pot, making it very hard to get a clear broth. If the heat is steady, you won’t need to add cold water to make the scum rise; but if the heat starts off too high, you will need to do that.
VI. WHEN THE STOCK IS WELL SKIMMED, and begins to boil, put in salt and vegetables, which may be two or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, a bunch of leeks and celery tied together. You can add, according to taste, a piece of cabbage, two or three cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. The latter gives a very agreeable flavour to the stock. If fried onion be added, it ought, according to the advice of a famous French chef, to be tied in a little bag: without this precaution, the colour of the stock is liable to be clouded.
VI. WHEN THE STOCK IS WELL SKIMMED and starts to boil, add salt and vegetables, which can include two or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, and a bunch of leeks and celery tied together. You can also add, based on your preference, a piece of cabbage, two or three cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. The tomato adds a really nice flavor to the stock. If you include fried onion, a famous French chef suggests tying it in a small bag; otherwise, the stock may become cloudy.
VII. BY THIS TIME we will now suppose that you have chopped the bones which were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the roast meat of the day before. Remember, as was before pointed out, that the more these are broken, the more gelatine you will have. The best way to break them up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding, from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. It is a great saving thus to make use of the bones of meat, which, in too many English families, we fear, are entirely wasted; for it is certain, as previously stated (No. 102), that two ounces of bone contain as much gelatine (which is the nutritive portion of stock) as one pound of meat. In their broken state tie them up in a bag, and put them in the stock-pot; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, which can be used for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight, you have received from the butcher a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightly over a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be very careful that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or burnt.
VII. AT THIS POINT, let’s assume you have chopped the bones that were separated from the meat, along with any that were leftover from yesterday's roast. Remember, as mentioned before, the more you break them down, the more gelatin you'll get. The best way to do this is to pound them roughly in a heavy mortar, adding a little water from time to time to keep them from getting too hot. It's a great way to save by using meat bones, which, unfortunately, are often wasted in many English households; because, as stated earlier (No. 102), two ounces of bone contain as much gelatin (the nutritious part of the stock) as one pound of meat. Once broken, tie them up in a bag and place them in the stock pot, along with any gristly parts of cold meat and trimmings that can't be used for anything else. If you need to add weight, and the butcher has given you a piece of mutton or veal, grill it lightly over a clear flame before adding it to the stock pot, making sure it doesn’t pick up any smoky or burnt flavor.
VIII. ADD NOW THE VEGETABLES, which, to a certain extent, will stop the boiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up again, then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it gently simmering till it is served, preserving, as before said, your fire always the same. Cover the stock-pot well, to prevent evaporation; do not fill it up, even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed; in which case a little boiling water may be added, but only enough to cover it. After six hours' slow and gentle simmering, the stock is done; and it should not be continued on the fire, longer than is necessary, or it will tend to insipidity.
VIII. NOW ADD THE VEGETABLES, which will somewhat stop the boiling of the stock. Wait until it comes back to a good simmer, then move it to the side of the fire and keep it gently simmering until it's served, maintaining a consistent heat as mentioned before. Cover the stock pot well to prevent evaporation; don't refill it, even if you take out some stock, unless the meat is exposed; in that case, you can add just enough boiling water to cover it. After simmering slowly and gently for six hours, the stock is done; it shouldn't stay on the heat any longer than necessary, or it will lose flavor.
Note.—It is on a good stock, or first good broth and sauce, that excellence in cookery depends. If the preparation of this basis of the culinary art is intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons, and the stock is not well skimmed, but indifferent results will be obtained. The stock will never be clear; and when it is obliged to be clarified, it is deteriorated both in quality and flavour. In the proper management of the stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is saved, inasmuch as one stock, in a small dinner, serves for all purposes. Above all things, the greatest economy, consistent with excellence, should be practised, and the price of everything which enters the kitchen correctly ascertained. The theory of this part of Household Management may appear trifling; but its practice is extensive, and therefore it requires the best attention.
Note.—The quality of your cooking relies on a good stock, or a solid broth and sauce. If the preparation of this foundational element of cooking is left to careless or uninformed people, and the stock isn't properly skimmed, you’ll end up with subpar results. The stock will never be clear, and if you need to clarify it, its quality and flavor will suffer. Properly managing the stock-pot saves a lot of hassle since one stock can be used for various dishes in a small dinner. Above all, you should focus on being economical while maintaining quality, and accurately determine the cost of everything that goes into the kitchen. The theory behind this aspect of Household Management might seem trivial, but its practice is significant and deserves careful attention.
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RECIPES.
CHAPTER VI.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.
[It will be seen, by reference to the following Recipes, that an entirely original and most intelligible system has been pursued in explaining the preparation of each dish. We would recommend the young housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of "getting ready" the dinner, or other meal, to follow precisely the order in which the recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their table all the INGREDIENTS necessary; then the modus operandi, or MODE of preparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of the recipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gained of the TIME the cooling of each dish will occupy, of the periods at which it is SEASONABLE, as also of its AVERAGE COST.
You will see, by looking at the following recipes, that a completely original and very clear system has been used to explain how to prepare each dish. We recommend that young housekeepers, cooks, or anyone involved in the important task of getting dinner or any other meal ready should follow the recipes in the exact order they are presented. First, they should gather all the necessary INGREDIENTS on their table; then the method of preparation will be easy to manage. By reading the recipes carefully, there will be no trouble arranging a meal for any number of people, and you'll have a clear understanding of how long each dish will take to cool, when it is SEASONABLE, as well as its AVERAGE COST.
The addition of the natural history, and the description of the various properties of the edible articles in common use in every family, will be serviceable both in a practical and an educational point of view.
The inclusion of natural history and the details about the different qualities of the food items commonly used in every household will be useful both practically and for educational purposes.
Speaking specially of the Recipes for Soups, it may be added, that by the employment of the BEST, MEDIUM, or COMMON STOCK, the quality of the Soups and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened.]
When it comes to the Recipes for Soups, it's important to note that using the BEST, MEDIUM, or COMMON STOCK can affect both the quality and the cost of the Soups, allowing you to adjust them accordingly.
STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUPS.
RICH STRONG STOCK.
104. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of shin of beef, 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 3/4 lb. of good lean ham; any poultry trimmings; 3 small onions, 3 small carrots, 3 turnips (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they ferment), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley; 1-1/2 oz. of salt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace, 4 quarts of water.
104. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of beef shin, 4 lbs. of veal knuckle, 3/4 lb. of good lean ham; any leftover poultry; 3 small onions, 3 small carrots, 3 turnips (omit these in summer to avoid fermentation), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms if available; 1 tomato, a bunch of savory herbs, including parsley; 1-1/2 oz. of salt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace, 4 quarts of water.
Mode.—Line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin broad slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat; cut up the beef and veal in pieces about 3 inches square, and lay them on the ham; set it on the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat is equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasionally add a little cold water, to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear; then put in all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Do not let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that its colour may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, or tammy, and it will be fit for use.
Mode.—Line a clean stewpan with thin slices of ham, trimming off any excess fat. Cut the beef and veal into pieces about 3 inches square and place them on top of the ham. Set it on the stove, reduce the heat, and stir frequently. Once the meat is evenly browned, add the beef and veal bones, along with any poultry trimmings, and pour in cold water. Skim the surface well, and occasionally add a bit of cold water to stop the boiling until the liquid is clear; then add all the other ingredients and let it simmer very slowly for 5 hours. Make sure it doesn’t reach a rolling boil, to prevent losing the stock and to keep the color intact. Strain through a very fine sieve, and it will be ready to use.
Time.—5 hours. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time.—5 hours. Average cost, £0.06 per quart.
MEDIUM STOCK.
105. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of shin of beef, or 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, or 2 lbs. of each; any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, 1/2 a lb. of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each stuck with 3 cloves; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1/2 a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz. of salt, 1/2 a teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, 4 quarts and 1/2 pint of cold water.
105. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of beef shin, or 4 lbs. of veal knuckle, or 2 lbs. of each; any bones, leftover poultry, or fresh meat, 1/2 lb. of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each with 3 cloves stuck in; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1/2 a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz. of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1 small bunch of savory herbs, 4 quarts and 1/2 pint of cold water.
Mode.—Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches square; rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; put in 1/2 a pint of water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance, add 4 quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. Skim off every particle of grease whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve.
Mode.—Cut the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches square; spread the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; add 1/2 a pint of water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan and place it over a strong flame, occasionally stirring the contents. When the bottom of the pan is covered with a pale, jelly-like substance, add 4 quarts of cold water and let it simmer very gently for 5 hours. As mentioned earlier, don’t let it boil rapidly. Skim off any grease while it's cooking, and strain it through a fine mesh sieve.
This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes.
This is the foundation for many of the soups mentioned later, and it will be strong enough for regular use.
Time.—5-1/2 hours. Average cost, 9d. per quart.
Time.—5.5 hours. Average cost, 9d. per quart.
ECONOMICAL STOCK.
106. INGREDIENTS.—The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled, say 4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, shank-bones, &c., roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish; vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe.
106. INGREDIENTS.—The liquid used for boiling a piece of meat, about 4 quarts; leftover fresh meat or poultry, shank bones, etc., roast beef bones, or any available scraps from the pantry; vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the previous recipe.
Mode.—Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, taking care to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use.
Mode.—Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, making sure to skim carefully at the beginning. Strain it off and set it aside for later use.
Time.—6 hours. Average cost, 3d. per quart.
Time: 6 hours. Average cost: 3d. per quart.
WHITE STOCK.
(To be Used in the Preparation of White Soups.)
(For Making Creamy White Soups.)
107. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, 4 slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, 12 white peppercorns, 1 oz. of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. butter, 4 quarts of water.
107. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of veal knuckle, any poultry scraps, 4 slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, 12 white peppercorns, 1 oz. of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. of butter, 4 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings of poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with the butter. Moisten with 1/2 a pint of water, and simmer till the gravy begins to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of water and the remainder of the ingredients; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and straining it carefully through a very fine hair sieve, it will be ready for use.
Method.—Chop the veal and place it with the bones and scraps of poultry, along with the ham, into a stewpan that has been greased with butter. Add 1/2 a pint of water and simmer until the gravy starts to flow. Then add 4 quarts of water and the rest of the ingredients; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming and straining it carefully through a very fine sieve, it will be ready to use.
Time.—5-1/2 hours. Average cost, 9d. per quart.
Time: 5.5 hours. Average cost: 9p per quart.
Note.—When stronger stock is desired, double the quantity of veal, or put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled, is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups.
Note.—When you want a richer stock, use double the amount of veal, or add an older chicken. The broth from boiling a young turkey is a great addition to any white stock or soup.
BROWNING FOR STOCK.
108. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of powdered sugar, and 1/2 a pint of water.
108. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of powdered sugar and 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it begins to melt, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes black, then add the water, and let it dissolve. Cork closely, and use a few drops when required.
Mode.—Put the sugar in a saucepan over low heat until it starts to melt, stirring with a wooden spoon until it turns black. Then, add the water and let it dissolve. Seal it tightly, and use a few drops as needed.
Note.—In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of browning. As a general rule, the process of browning is to be discouraged, as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to the stock, and, consequently, all soups made from it.
Note.—In France, charred onions are used for browning. Generally, the browning process should be avoided because it can give the stock a slightly off flavor, and as a result, all soups made from it.
TO CLARIFY STOCK.
109. INGREDIENTS.—The whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of water, 2 quarts of stock.
109. INGREDIENTS.—The whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of water, 2 quarts of stock.
Mode.—Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear, and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefully separated from their yolks, whisk them well together with the water, and add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still whisking. Place the soup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the eggs with it till nearly boiling again; then draw it from the fire, and let it settle, until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass through a fine cloth, and the soup should be clear.
Method.—If by some accident the soup isn't quite clear and you have 2 quarts of it, take the whites of 2 eggs, making sure to separate them from the yolks, whisk them together well with some water, and gradually add the 2 quarts of boiling stock while continuing to whisk. Place the soup on the stove, and when it starts boiling and is well skimmed, whisk the eggs into it until it's nearly boiling again; then remove it from the heat and let it settle until the egg whites separate. Strain it through a fine cloth, and the soup should be clear.
Note.—The rule is, that all clear soups should be of a light straw colour, and should not savour too strongly of the meat; and that all white or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than will enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All purées should be somewhat thicker.
Note.—The guideline is that all clear soups should be a light straw color and not taste too much like the meat; and all white or brown thick soups should be no thicker than what allows them to slightly cling to the spoon when hot. All purées should be a bit thicker.
ALMOND SOUP.
110. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of lean beef or veal, 1/2 a scrag of mutton, 1 oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, rather more than 2 quarts of water.
110. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of lean beef or veal, 1/2 a neck of mutton, 1 oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, a little more than 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water that will cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat very tender; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fire with the specified quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Let it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds, blanched and pounded very fine; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard; mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the latter should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectly smooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently, and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream.
Mode.—Gently boil the beef, veal, and mutton in enough water to cover them until the gravy is very rich and the meat is tender. Then strain the gravy and put it on the stove with the specified amounts of vermicelli, mace, and cloves for 2 quarts. Let it boil until it takes on the flavor of the spices. Prepare the almonds by blanching and grinding them very finely. Also, hard boil the egg yolks; while grinding the almonds, mix in a bit of the soup to prevent it from becoming oily. Grind until they form a smooth paste, gradually adding more soup until everything is completely mixed. Make sure the soup is cool while mixing, achieving a perfectly smooth consistency. Strain it through a sieve, put it back on the stove, stir often, and serve hot. Just before serving, add the cream.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost per quart, 2s. 3d.
Duration.—3 hours. Average cost per quart, £0.11.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
[Illustration: ALMOND & BLOSSOM.]
[Illustration: ALMOND & BLOSSOM.]
THE ALMOND-TREE.—This tree is indigenous to the northern parts of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe, especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although there are two kinds of almonds, the sweet and the bitter, they are considered as only varieties of the same species. The best sweet almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or Jordan, and come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are brought from Valentia and Italy. Bitter almonds come principally from Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much esteemed by the nations of the East. Jacob included it among the presents which he designed for Joseph. The Greeks called it the Greek or Thasian nut, and the Romans believed that by eating half a dozen of them, they were secured against drunkenness, however deeply they might imbibe. Almonds, however, are considered as very indigestible. The bitter contain, too, principles which produce two violent poisons,—prussic acid and a kind of volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them in large quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little sugar and water, however, produce a milk similar to that which is yielded by animals. Their oil is used for making fine soap, and their cake as a cosmetic.
THE ALMOND TREE.—This tree is native to the northern regions of Asia and Africa, but it's now grown in Europe, particularly in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It blooms in spring and produces fruit in August. While there are two types of almonds, the sweet and the bitter, they are regarded as variations of the same species. The best sweet almonds brought to England are known as Syrian or Jordan almonds and come from Malaga; lower-quality ones come from Valencia and Italy. Bitter almonds mainly come from Magadore. In ancient times, the almond was highly valued by Eastern nations. Jacob included it among the gifts he planned for Joseph. The Greeks referred to it as the Greek or Thasian nut, and the Romans believed that eating a handful would protect them from drunkenness, no matter how much they drank. However, almonds are considered quite hard to digest. The bitter ones also contain compounds that produce two potent poisons—prussic acid and a kind of volatile oil. Therefore, consuming them in large amounts is dangerous. When almonds are ground up with a bit of sugar and water, they produce a milk similar to that from animals. Their oil is used to make high-quality soap, and their leftover cake serves as a cosmetic.
APPLE SOUP.
111. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of good boiling apples, 3/4 teaspoonful of white pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium stock.
111. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of good cooking apples, 3/4 teaspoon of white pepper, 6 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium stock.
Mode.—Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores; put them into the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole through a strainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve.
Mode.—Peel and quarter the apples, removing the cores; place them in the stock, and simmer gently until soft. Pass everything through a strainer, add the seasoning, bring it to a boil once, and serve.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost per quart, 1s.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost per quart, £1.
Seasonable from September to December.
Available from September to December.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.]
[Illustration: Apple and Blossom.]
THE APPLE.—This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and Homer describes it as valuable in his time. It was brought from the East by the Romans, who held it in the highest estimation. Indeed, some of the citizens of the "Eternal city" distinguished certain favourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the Appians after Appius. Others were designated after the country whence they were brought; as the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and the Greeks. The best varieties are natives of Asia, and have, by grafting them upon others, been introduced into Europe. The crab, found in our hedges, is the only variety indigenous to Britain; therefore, for the introduction of other kinds we are, no doubt, indebted to the Romans. In the time of the Saxon heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were distinguished as the apple country; and there are still existing in Herefordshire some trees said to have been planted in the time of William the Conqueror. From that time to this, the varieties of this precious fruit have gone on increasing, and are now said to number upwards of 1,500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone, being found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter and spring are russets. The best table, or eating apples, are the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the ribstone, with small russets. As a food, the apple cannot be considered to rank high, as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest of its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a useful adjunct to other kinds of food, and, when cooked, is esteemed as slightly laxative.
THE APPLE.—This useful fruit is mentioned in religious texts; and Homer described it as valuable in his time. The Romans brought it from the East, where it was highly regarded. In fact, some citizens of the "Eternal City" named certain favorite apples after themselves. For example, the Manlians were named after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and the Appians after Appius. Others were named after the regions they came from, like the Sidonians, the Epirotes, and the Greeks. The best varieties originate from Asia and have been introduced into Europe through grafting. The crab apple, found in our hedges, is the only type native to Britain; thus, we are surely indebted to the Romans for the introduction of other kinds. During the time of the Saxon heptarchy, both Devon and Somerset were known as the apple country; and there are still some trees in Herefordshire that are said to have been planted during the time of William the Conqueror. From then until now, the varieties of this valuable fruit have continued to grow, and there are now said to be over 1,500 types. It thrives in the temperate zone and is not found in Lapland or within the tropics. The best baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the top picks for autumn are the rennets and pearmains; and the best for winter and spring are russets. The best eating apples are the Margarets for early use; the Kentish codlin and summer pearmain for summer; and for autumn, winter, or spring, the Dowton, golden, and other pippins, like the ribstone, along with small russets. As a food, apples aren’t considered very nutritious, as more than half of their composition is water, and the rest isn’t particularly nourishing. However, they are a useful addition to other foods, and when cooked, are considered slightly laxative.
ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP.
(A White Soup.)
(White Soup.)
112. INGREDIENTS.—3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery, 1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of boiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock.
112. INGREDIENTS.—3 slices of lean bacon or ham, 1/2 a head of celery, 1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of boiling milk, or 1/2 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 lumps of sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of white stock.
Mode.—Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thin slices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for 1/4 of an hour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and after cutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to the other ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp, put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning, and when it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer. Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes, taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream. Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter.
Method.—Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into thin slices, into the pot with the butter. Sauté these for 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Wash and peel the artichokes, and after slicing them thinly, add them along with a pint of stock to the other ingredients. Once everything has gently cooked down to a smooth consistency, add the rest of the stock. Stir it well, add the seasoning, and after it has simmered for five minutes, strain it. Then pour it back into the pot, let it simmer for another five minutes, making sure to skim it well, and then mix it with the boiling milk or cream. Serve with small pieces of bread fried in butter.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost per quart, 1s. 2d.
Time: 1 hour. Average cost per quart: 1s. 2d.
Seasonable from June to October.
Available from June to October.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
I.
113. INGREDIENTS.—5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint of pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce, a little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut small, the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water.
113. INGREDIENTS.—5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, 1/2 pint of pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 head of lettuce, a little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of chopped asparagus tops, the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into a stewpan, with the bacon at the bottom; cover it close, and set it on a slow fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. Put in the water and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stew gently for 2 hours; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, and add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and sweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put in the asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is tender. Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish.
Method.—Put the beef, cut into pieces and coated in flour, into a pot with the bacon at the bottom; cover it tightly and set it on a low heat, stirring occasionally until the gravy forms. Add the water and ale, and season with pepper and salt to taste, then let it simmer gently for 2 hours; afterward, strain the liquid and remove the fat. Add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and sweet marjoram, all ground together. Let these ingredients boil in the liquid, then add the chopped asparagus tops and let it boil until everything is tender. Serve hot, with a French roll in the dish.
Time.—Altogether 3 hours. Average cost per quart, 1s. 9d.
Time.—Total 3 hours. Average cost per quart, £1.45.
Seasonable from May to August.
Available from May to August.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
II.
114. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of split peas, a teacupful of gravy, 4 young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint of asparagus cut small, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: colour the soup with spinach juice.
114. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of split peas, 1 teacup of gravy, 4 young onions, 1 small chopped lettuce, 1/2 a head of celery, 1/2 a pint of chopped asparagus, 1/2 a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water: color the soup with spinach juice.
Mode.—Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve; add the gravy, and then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus, with the water. After this, stew altogether, and add the colouring and cream, and serve.
Mode.—Boil the peas and then strain them through a sieve; add the gravy, and then cook the celery, onions, lettuce, and asparagus in the water. After that, combine everything and add the coloring and cream, then serve.
Time.—Peas 2-1/2 hours, vegetables 1 hour; altogether 4 hours. Average cost per quart, 1s.
Time.—Peas 2.5 hours, vegetables 1 hour; total 4 hours. Average cost per quart, 1s.
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]
ASPARAGUS.—The ancients called all the sprouts of young vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited to a particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, asparagus, cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally mostly wild seacoast plants; and, in this state, asparagus may still be found on the northern as well as southern shores of Britain. It is often vulgarly called, in London, sparrowgrass; and, in it's cultivated form, hardly bears any resemblance to the original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the London market, at Mortlake and Deptford; but it belongs rather to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is light and easily digested, but is not very nutritious.
ASPARAGUS.—In ancient times, all young vegetable sprouts were referred to as asparagus, which is why the name is now used specifically for one species that includes artichoke, alisander, asparagus, cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. These plants mostly originate as wild seaside species, and you can still find asparagus growing wild on both the northern and southern shores of Britain. In London, it's often informally called sparrowgrass; however, the cultivated version has little resemblance to the original plant. Huge amounts of it are produced for the London market, especially in Mortlake and Deptford, but it's more of a luxury food than a necessity. It's light and easy to digest but not particularly nutritious.
BAKED SOUP.
115. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or odd pieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water.
115. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of any type of meat, any trimmings or leftover pieces; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint of split peas, pepper and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice and peas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up with the water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours.
Mode.—Slice the meat and vegetables, add the rice and peas, and season with pepper and salt. Place everything in a jar, fill it with water, cover it tightly, and bake for 4 hours.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 2-1/2d. per quart.
Time: 4 hours. Average cost: 2.5 pence per quart.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable any time.
Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons.
Enough for 10 or 12 people.
Note.—This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and will be convenient in those cases where baking is more easily performed than boiling.
Note.—This is a very inexpensive and healthy soup, and it’s great for situations where baking is easier than boiling.
BARLEY SOUP.
116. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, a large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts of water.
116. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef shin, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, a large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts of water.
Mode.—Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 3 hours.
Mode.—Add all the ingredients and simmer gently for 3 hours.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 2-1/2d. per quart.
Time: 3 hours. Average cost: 2.5 pence per quart.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable for winter.
Good all year round, but better for winter.
[Illustration: BARLEY.]
[Illustration: BARLEY.]
BARLEY.—This, in the order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain, the next plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several species and varieties. From what country it comes originally, is not known, but it was cultivated in the earliest ages of antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the loss of it in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the Romans. Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them, as it was in former times by the English, and still is, in the Border counties, in Cornwall, and also in Wales. In other parts of England, it is used mostly for malting purposes. It is less nutritive than wheat; and in 100 parts, has of starch 79, gluten 6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however, a lighter and less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction of it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak.
BARLEY.—In the classification of cereal grasses, barley ranks just after wheat in terms of value in Britain, and it has several species and varieties. Its original country of origin is unknown, but it was cultivated as far back as ancient times, as evidenced by the Egyptians' struggle with its loss during the time of Moses. It was a popular grain among the Athenians, but the Romans considered it a lowly food. Despite this, the Romans used it a lot, just as it was used in earlier times by the English, and it is still consumed in the Border counties, Cornwall, and Wales. In other regions of England, barley is mainly used for malting. It is less nutritious than wheat, containing 79 parts starch, 6 parts gluten, 7 parts saccharine matter, and 8 parts husk per 100 parts. However, it is a lighter and less stimulating food than wheat, making a brew of it suitable for those with weak digestion.
BREAD SOUP.
(Economical.)
Affordable.
117. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of common stock.
117. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of regular stock.
Mode.—Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; beat the whole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are well mixed. Season with a little salt.
Mode.—Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter; stir the mixture with a spoon, and keep it boiling until the bread and stock are well combined. Add a bit of salt to taste.
Time.—Half an hour. Average cost per quart, 4d.
Time — 30 minutes. Average cost per quart, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Note.—This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where extreme economy is an object.
Note.—This is an inexpensive recipe and will be useful where saving money is a priority.
[Illustration: QUERN, or GRINDING-MILL.]
[Illustration: Grain Mill.]
BREAD.—The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of distant ages. The Greeks attributed its invention to Pan; but before they, themselves, had an existence, it was, no doubt, in use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and the Egyptians were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion of Abraham, mixed flour and water together, kneaded it, and covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform us that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not known when the art of fermenting it was discovered. It is said that the Romans learnt it during their wars with Perseus, king of Macedon, and that it was introduced to the "imperial city" about 200 years before the birth of Christ. With them it no doubt found its way into Britain; but after their departure from the island, it probably ceased to be used. We know that King Alfred allowed the unfermented cakes to burn in the neatherd's cottage; and that, even in the sixteenth century, unfermented cakes, kneaded by the women, were the only kind of bread known to the inhabitants of Norway and Sweden. The Italians of this day consume the greater portion of their flour in the form of polenta, or soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and, in the remoter districts of Scotland, much unfermented bread is still used. We give a cut of the quern grinding-mill, which, towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country, and which is thus described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to the Hebrides:"—"It consists of two stones about a foot and half in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the concavity of the upper must be fitted. In the middle of the upper stone is a round hole, and on one side is a long handle. The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole with one hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides down the convexity of the lower stone, and by the motion of the upper, is ground in its passage." Such a primitive piece of machinery, it may safely be said, has entirely disappeared from this country.—In other parts of this work, we shall have opportunities of speaking of bread and bread-making, which, from its great and general use in the nourishment of mankind, has emphatically been called the "staff of life." The necessity, therefore, of having it both pure and good is of the first importance.
BREAD.—The origin of bread is wrapped in the mystery of ancient times. The Greeks credited its invention to Pan; however, it was likely in use among early human societies long before their existence. The Chaldeans and Egyptians were familiar with it, and Sarah, Abraham’s wife, mixed flour and water, kneaded the mixture, and covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures tell us that the Israelites knew about leavened bread, but it’s unclear when the process of fermentation was first discovered. It is said that the Romans learned about it during their battles with Perseus, the king of Macedon, and that it made its way to the "imperial city" around 200 years before Christ was born. This likely brought bread to Britain, but after the Romans left the island, its use probably declined. We know that King Alfred let the unleavened cakes burn in the neatherd's cottage, and even in the sixteenth century, the only type of bread known to the people of Norway and Sweden was unleavened cakes, which were prepared by women. Nowadays, Italians consume most of their flour in the form of polenta, soft pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni; and in some more remote areas of Scotland, much unleavened bread is still eaten. We have an illustration of the quern grinding mill, which was used in that country toward the end of the last century, and it is described by Dr. Johnson in his "Journey to the Hebrides":—"It consists of two stones about a foot and half in diameter; the lower stone is slightly convex, to which the concave upper stone fits. In the middle of the upper stone, there's a round hole, and on one side, a long handle. The person grinding pours the grain gradually into the hole with one hand while turning the handle with the other. The grain slides down the curvature of the lower stone and is ground as it passes through." Such a simple piece of machinery has completely vanished from this country. In other parts of this work, we will have opportunities to discuss bread and bread-making, which, due to its essential role in human nutrition, has been aptly termed the "staff of life." Therefore, ensuring that it is both pure and good is of utmost importance.
CABBAGE SOUP.
118. INGREDIENTS.—1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
118. INGREDIENTS.—1 large cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
Mode.—Scald the cabbage, exit it up and drain it. Line the stewpan with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten with skimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the cabbage is tender; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skim off every particle of fat. Season and serve.
Mode.—Boil the cabbage, chop it up, and drain it. Line the saucepan with the bacon, then add the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten with the leftover fat from the stock, and simmer very gently until the cabbage is tender; add the stock, cook slowly for half an hour, and carefully skim off any fat. Season and serve.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, £0.05 per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
[Illustration: CABBAGE SEEDING.]
[Illustration: CABBAGE SEEDING.]
THE CABBAGE.—It is remarkable, that although there is no country in the world now more plentifully supplied with fruits and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater number of these had no existence in it before the time of Henry VIII. Anderson, writing under the date of 1548, says, "The English cultivated scarcely any vegetables before the last two centuries. At the commencement of the reign, of Henry VIII. neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the kingdom; they came from Holland and Flanders." The original of all the cabbage tribe is the wild plant sea-colewort, which is to be found wasting whatever sweetness it may have on the desert air, on many of the cliffs of the south coast of England. In this state, it scarcely weighs more than half an ounce, yet, in a cultivated state, to what dimensions can it be made to grow! However greatly the whole of the tribe is esteemed among the moderns, by the ancients they were held in yet higher estimation. The Egyptians adored and raised altars to them, and the Greeks and Romans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues to them. Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and declared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600 years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul, and, no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have been suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries. The whole tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a valuable adjunct to animal food.
THE CABBAGE.—It’s interesting that even though Great Britain is currently one of the most abundant places in the world for fruits and vegetables, most of these didn’t even exist there before the time of Henry VIII. Anderson, writing in 1548, states, "The English hardly cultivated any vegetables until the last two centuries. At the start of Henry VIII's reign, neither salad, carrots, cabbages, radishes, nor any similar foods were grown anywhere in the kingdom; they were imported from Holland and Flanders." The ancestor of all cabbage varieties is the wild plant sea-colewort, which can still be seen wasting whatever little sweetness it has in the harsh winds on many cliffs along the south coast of England. In its wild state, it hardly weighs more than half an ounce; however, when cultivated, it can grow to impressive sizes! While today the entire cabbage family is highly valued, the ancients regarded them even more highly. The Egyptians worshipped them and built altars for them, and both the Greeks and Romans attributed many great virtues to them. Cato claimed that cabbage cured all diseases and stated that it was the reason Romans managed to stay healthy without doctors for 600 years. They introduced it to Germany, Gaul, and likely Britain, although it may have fallen out of use in Britain for several centuries. Overall, the cabbage family is generally healthy and nutritious and serves as a valuable complement to meat.
SOUP A LA CANTATRICE.
(An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice.)
(A Great Soup that's Very Good for Your Voice.)
119. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked), 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
119. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of sago, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 lump of sugar, seasoning to taste, 1 bay leaf (if desired), and 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
Mode.—Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be gradually added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for 1/2 an hour, when it should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add to them the boiling cream; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Mode.—After washing the sago in boiling water, slowly mix it into the nearly boiling stock. Let it simmer for 30 minutes, until it’s fully dissolved. Whisk the egg yolks, then add the boiling cream; quickly mix this into the soup and serve right away. Avoid letting the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Time.—40 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per quart.
Time.—40 minutes. Average cost, £0.07 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonable year-round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Fits 8 people.
Note.—This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat. In various quantities, and in different preparations, these have been partaken of by the principal singers of the day, including the celebrated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always avowed, with considerable advantage to the voice, in singing.
Note.—This is a soup made mainly with sago and eggs, which have always been considered very good for the chest and throat. In various amounts and different ways of preparation, these ingredients have been consumed by the leading singers of the time, including the famous Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and they have always claimed it helps improve their singing voice.
CARROT SOUP.
I.
120. INGREDIENTS.—4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled, a few beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1 turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste; cayenne.
120. INGREDIENTS.—4 quarts of broth from boiling a leg of mutton or beef, a few beef bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions, 1 turnip; season with salt and pepper to taste; cayenne.
Mode.—Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into a stewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin, strain the soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth; then boil the pulp with the soup, which should be of the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne. Pulp only the red part of the carrot, and make this soup the day before it is wanted.
Method.—Place the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt into a pot, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and slice the carrots thinly, strain the soup over them, and simmer until they are soft enough to mash through a fine sieve or coarse cloth; then boil the mashed carrots with the soup, which should have the consistency of pea soup. Add cayenne. Only mash the red part of the carrot, and make this soup the day before you need it.
Time.—4-1/2 hours. Average cost per quart, 1-1/2d.
Duration.—4.5 hours. Average cost per quart, 1.5d.
Seasonable from October to March.
Available from October to March.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
II.
121. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup.
121. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 quarts of stock or gravy.
Mode.—Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and wipe them dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put the butter into a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. of the sliced carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning. Add to them the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender,—say for nearly an hour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and add salt and cayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes, skim well, and serve as hot as possible.
Mode.—Scrape and cut out all blemishes from the carrots, wash them, and pat them dry. Then slice them into quarter-inch pieces. Put the butter into a large pot, and when it’s melted, add 2 lbs. of the sliced carrots. Let them cook gently for an hour without browning. Add the soup and let it simmer until the carrots are tender—about an hour. Press everything through a strainer with the soup, and add salt and cayenne if needed. Boil everything gently for 5 minutes, skim off any foam, and serve it as hot as possible.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost per quart, 1s. 1d.
Time.—1 hour and 15 minutes. Average cost per quart, £1.05.
[Illustration: TAZZA AND CARROT LEAVES.]
[Illustration: Tazza and carrot greens.]
THE CARROT.—There is a wild carrot which grows in England; but it is white and small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot in general use, was introduced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and was, at first, so highly esteemed, that the ladies wore leaves of it in their head-dresses. It is of great value in the culinary art, especially for soups and stews. It can be used also for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields a large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportionably valuable as it has more of the red than the yellow part. There is a large red variety much used by the farmers for colouring butter. As a garden vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that is usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle, it is excellent; but for man it is indigestible, on account of its fibrous matter. Of 1,000 parts, 95 consist of sugar, and 3 of starch.—The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter ornament, obtained by placing a cut from the top of the carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness.
THE CARROT.—There’s a wild carrot that grows in England; however, it’s small and white, and not highly valued. The garden carrot that people generally use was introduced during Queen Elizabeth’s reign and was initially so prized that women wore its leaves in their hairstyles. It’s very important in cooking, especially for soups and stews. It can also be used to make beer instead of malt, and when distilled, it produces a lot of alcohol. The carrot is more valuable when it has more of the red part than the yellow. There’s a large red variety used by farmers to color butter. The orange carrot is typically the one grown in gardens. It’s excellent for fattening livestock, but for humans, it’s hard to digest because of its fibrous content. Out of 1,000 parts, 95 are sugar, and 3 are starch. The image below shows a lovely winter decoration created by placing a cut from the top of the carrot root in a shallow dish of water, allowing the young leaves to grow with refreshing fullness.
CELERY SOUP.
122. INGREDIENTS.—9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and 2 quarts of boiling water.
122. INGREDIENTS.—9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoon of salt, nutmeg to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 1/2 pint of strong stock, 1 pint of cream, and 2 quarts of boiling water.
Mode.—Cut the celery into small pieces; throw it into the water, seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently tender; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for half an hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and serve immediately.
Mode.—Chop the celery into small pieces and add it to water, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil until it's tender; strain it through a sieve, mix in the stock, and let it simmer for half an hour. Then add the cream, bring it to a boil, and serve right away.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, £0.01 per quart.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
Note.—This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting the cream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured, half a drachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the soup, if put in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the essence of celery will answer the same purpose.
Note.—You can make this soup brown instead of white by leaving out the cream and adding a bit of color. If you can't find celery, using half a drachm of the finely ground seeds will add flavor to the soup if it's added about fifteen minutes before it's done. A small amount of celery essence will work the same way.
CELERY.—This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild state, grows by the side of ditches and along some parts of the seacoast. In this state it is called smallaqe, and, to some extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has been brought to the fine flavour which the garden plant possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it is raised to an enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how infinitely does it enhance our delight in contemplating the products of nature! To know, for example, that the endless variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by the rays of the sun, is to know a truism sublime by its very comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of celery is nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in order that this effect may be produced, the plant is almost wholly covered with earth; the tops of the leaves alone being suffered to appear above the ground.
CELERY.—This plant is native to Britain and, in its wild form, grows by ditches and along some coastal areas. In this state, it’s called smallaqe and can be somewhat of a dangerous narcotic. However, through cultivation, it has been developed into the flavorful garden plant we know today. In the Manchester area, it can grow to an enormous size. When we enhance our natural observations with the precise findings of science, our appreciation for nature’s products grows immensely! For example, realizing that the endless colors we see in plants are created by sunlight is a profound truth that encompasses so much. The whiteness of celery comes from its lack of light as it grows, and to achieve this, the plant is mostly buried in soil, with only the tops of the leaves exposed above ground.
CHANTILLY SOUP.
123. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
123. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of fresh green peas, a small bunch of parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
Mode.—Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions; then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not let it boil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve very hot.
Mode.—Cook the peas until they’re very soft, along with the parsley and onions; then strain them through a sieve and mix in the stock. Avoid boiling the mixture after adding the peas, or you’ll ruin the color. Serve it hot.
Time.—Half an hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per quart.
Duration—30 minutes. Average cost, £0.075 per quart.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
In season from June to the end of August.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to them, make a very good soup in haste.
Note.—Cold peas mashed in a bowl, with some broth mixed in, make a great quick soup.
Parsley.—Among the Greeks, in the classic ages, a crown of parsley was awarded, both in the Nemaean and Isthmian games, and the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces this beautiful herb the emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and is extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to Britain is not known. There are several varieties,—the plain-leaved and the curled-leaved, celery-parsley, Hamburg parsley, and purslane. The curled is the best, and, from the form of its leaf, has a beautiful appearance on a dish as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many, very agreeable in soups; and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to parrots it is a poison. The celery-parsley is used as a celery, and the Hamburg is cultivated only for its roots, which are used as parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane is a native of South America, and is not now much in use.
Parsley.—In ancient Greece, a crown of parsley was awarded at both the Nemean and Isthmian games, and the indulgent Anacreon described this lovely herb as a symbol of joy and celebration. It has a graceful leaf and is widely used in cooking. It's unclear when it was first introduced to Britain. There are several varieties: plain-leaved, curled-leaved, celery-parsley, Hamburg parsley, and purslane. The curled variety is the best and, due to the shape of its leaves, looks beautiful as a garnish on a plate. Many people find its flavor quite pleasant in soups; however, while it's a treat for rabbits, hares, and sheep, it's poisonous to parrots. Celery-parsley is used in place of celery, and Hamburg parsley is grown mainly for its roots, which can be eaten like parsnips or carrots alongside meat. Purslane is native to South America and is not commonly used today.
CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP.
124. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream; seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105.
124. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of Spanish chestnuts, 1/4 pint of cream; seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace; 1 quart of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into a large pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the fingers to remain in it, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immerse them in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover them with good stock, and stew them gently for rather more than 3/4 of an hour, or until they break when touched with a fork; then drain, pound, and rub them through a fine sieve reversed; add sufficient stock, mace, cayenne, and salt, and stir it often until it boils, and put in the cream. The stock in which the chestnuts are boiled can be used for the soup, when its sweetness is not objected to, or it may, in part, be added to it; and the rule is, that 3/4 lb. of chestnuts should be given to each quart of soup.
Method.—Remove the outer shell from the chestnuts and place them in a large pan of warm water. Once the water is too hot to keep your fingers in, take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and immerse them in cold water. Then wipe them dry and weigh them. Now cover the chestnuts with good stock and simmer them gently for about 45 minutes, or until they break apart when touched with a fork. Drain, mash, and pass them through a fine sieve turned upside down; add enough stock, mace, cayenne, and salt, and stir frequently until it boils, then add the cream. The stock used to boil the chestnuts can be used for the soup if its sweetness is acceptable, or it can be partially added; the guideline is to use 3/4 lb. of chestnuts for each quart of soup.
Time.—rather more than 1 hour. Average cost per quart, 1s. 6d.
Time.—just over 1 hour. Average cost per quart, 1s. 6d.
Seasonable from October to February.
Valid from October to February.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
[Illustration: CHESTNUT.]
[Illustration: CHESTNUT.]
THE CHESTNUT.—This fruit is said, by some, to have originally come from Sardis, in Lydia; and by others, from Castanea, a city of Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the ancients it was much used as a food, and is still common in France and Italy, to which countries it is, by some, considered indigenous. In the southern part of the European continent, it is eaten both raw and roasted. The tree was introduced into Britain by the Romans; but it only flourishes in the warmer parts of the island, the fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland. It attains a great age, as well as an immense size. As a food, it is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and, therefore, the easiest of digestion. The tree called the horse chestnut is very different, although its fruit very much resembles that of the other. Its "nuts," though eaten by horses and some other animals, are unsuitable for human food.
THE CHESTNUT.—Some people believe this fruit originally came from Sardis in Lydia, while others say it’s from Castanea, a city in Thessaly, which is where it gets its name. The ancients used it a lot as food, and it’s still popular in France and Italy, where some consider it native. In the southern parts of Europe, it’s eaten both raw and roasted. The Romans introduced the tree to Britain; however, it only thrives in the warmer areas of the island, with the fruit rarely maturing in Scotland. It can live for a long time and grow to a huge size. As a food, it’s the least oily and most starchy of all nuts, making it the easiest to digest. The tree known as the horse chestnut is quite different, although its fruit looks a lot like the other. Its “nuts,” while consumed by horses and some other animals, are not suitable for human consumption.
COCOA-NUT SOUP.
125. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. of rice flour, 1/2 a teaspoonful of mace; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt; 1/4 of a pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
125. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of grated coconut, 6 oz. of rice flour, 1/2 teaspoon of mace; season with cayenne and salt to taste; 1/4 pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
Mode.—Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down small on a clean grater; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock, 2 oz. of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, which should then be strained closely from it, and thickened for table.
Mode.—Remove the dark skin from the coconut and grate it finely using a clean grater. Weigh it, and for each quart of stock, use 2 oz. of the coconut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock, then strain it thoroughly and thicken it for serving.
Time.—2-1/4 hours. Average cost per quart, 1s. 3d.
Time.—2 hours and 15 minutes. Average cost per quart, 1 shilling and 3 pence.
Seasonable in Autumn.
In season in Autumn.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
[Illustration: COCOA-NUT PALM.]
[Illustration: COCONUT PALM.]
[Illustration: NUT & BLOSSOM.]
[Illustration: NUT & BLOSSOM.]
THE COCOA-NUT.—This is the fruit of one of the palms, than which it is questionable if there is any other species of tree marking, in itself, so abundantly the goodness of Providence, in making provision for the wants of man. It grows wild in the Indian seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia; and thence it has been introduced into every part of the tropical regions. To the natives of those climates, its bark supplies the material for creating their dwellings; its leaves, the means of roofing them; and the leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows, or protecting the baby in the cradle. It is also made into lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat of the sun, baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on. Combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth are made of its fibers. With these, too, beds are made and cushions stuffed. Oars are supplied by the leaves; drinking-cups, spoons, and other domestic utensils by the shells of the nuts; milk by its juice, of which, also, a kind of honey and sugar are prepared. When fermented, it furnishes the means of intoxication; and when the fibres are burned, their ashes supply an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree bear a striking resemblance to cabbage when boiled; but when they are cropped, the tree dies. In a fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and its juice is a most agreeable and refreshing beverage. When the nut is imported to this country, its fruit is, in general, comparatively dry, and is considered indigestible. The tree is one of the least productive of the palm tribe.
THE COCONUT.—This is the fruit of a palm tree, and it’s debatable whether any other type of tree demonstrates, in itself, so richly the kindness of nature in providing for human needs. It grows wild in the Indian seas and in the eastern parts of Asia, and from there it has been brought to every tropical region. For the locals in those areas, its bark provides materials for building their homes; its leaves are used for roofing; and the leaf stems serve as a kind of gauze for covering windows or protecting babies in cradles. It’s also formed into lanterns, masks to shield the face from the sun, baskets, wicker items, and even a type of paper for writing. The fibers are used to create combs, brooms, torches, ropes, matting, and sailcloth. With these fibers, they also make beds and stuff cushions. Leaves provide oars; shells from the nuts are used for drinking cups, spoons, and other household tools; and its juice provides milk, which can also be made into a sort of honey and sugar. When fermented, it can lead to intoxication, and when the fibers are burned, their ashes create an alkali for making soap. The buds of the tree have a strong resemblance to cabbage when cooked, but if they are harvested, the tree dies. In its fresh state, the kernel is eaten raw, and its juice is a delicious and refreshing drink. When the nut is imported to this country, its fruit is usually quite dry and seen as hard to digest. The tree is one of the less productive members of the palm family.
SOUP A LA CRECY.
126. INGREDIENTS.—4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and chervil; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls, half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
126. INGREDIENTS.—4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 chopped lettuce, and chervil; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls, half a teacup of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.
Mode.—Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let them simmer 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and stew gently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder of the stock, let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the rolls. When well soaked, rub all through a tammy. Have ready the rice boiled; pour the soup over this, and serve.
Method.—Place the vegetables and butter in the saucepan, and let them cook for 5 minutes; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock, and simmer gently for half an hour. Next, add the rest of the stock, let it boil for another hour, and stir in the bread crumbs. Once well soaked, strain everything through a fine sieve. Have the cooked rice ready; pour the soup over it, and serve.
Time.—1-3/4 hour. Average cost,1s. 2d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour and 45 minutes. Average cost, £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Year-round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
[Illustration: THE LENTIL.]
[Illustration: THE LENTIL.]
THE LENTIL.—This belongs to the legumious or pulse kind of vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their nutritive properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe, but in England is not used as human food, although considered the best of all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is cultivated for soups, as well as for other preparations for the table; and among the presents which David received from Shobi, as recounted in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched pulse. Among the Egyptians it was extensively used, and among the Greeks, the Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that "a wise man acts always with reason, and prepares his own lentils." Among the Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the English may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account, it is said, of its rendering men indolent. It takes its name from lentus 'slow,' and, according to Pliny, produces mildness and moderation of temper.
THE LENTIL.—This belongs to the legume or pulse category of vegetables, which are second only to cereal crops in their nutritional value. The lentil is a type of bean, but in England, it's not commonly eaten by people, even though it’s considered the best option for pigeons. In Europe, it is grown for soups and other dishes. Among the gifts David received from Shobi, as mentioned in the Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched pulse. The Egyptians used it widely, and the Stoics among the Greeks had a saying that "a wise person always acts rationally and prepares their own lentils." Among the Romans, it wasn't highly valued, and it’s said that the English may have inherited a bias against it because it was thought to make people lazy. Its name comes from lentus, meaning 'slow,' and according to Pliny, it promotes calmness and moderation in temperament.
CUCUMBER SOUP (French Recipe).
Cucumber Soup (French Recipe).
127. INGREDIENTS.—1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stock No. 105.
127. INGREDIENTS.—1 large cucumber, a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, a handful of chervil and sorrel chopped into large pieces, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of medium stock No. 105.
Mode.—Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut it in thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw the water from them; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the butter. When they are warmed through, without being browned, pour the stock on them. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil for 40 minutes. Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the cream, which add at the moment of serving.
Mode.—Peel the cucumber, cut it in quarters, and remove the seeds; slice it thinly and place it on a plate with a bit of salt to draw out the moisture. Drain it and put it in your saucepan with the butter. When it's heated through without browning, pour the stock over it. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, then boil for 40 minutes. Mix the well-beaten egg yolks with the cream, and add this just before serving.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 2d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable from June to September.
Available from June to September.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
THE CUCUMBER.—The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the sacred writings we find that the people of Israel regretted it, whilst sojourning in the desert; and at the present time, the cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of the food of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations generally, as well as by the Greeks and Romans, it was greatly esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia by the Romans, and in the 14th century it was common in England, although, in the time of the wars of "the Roses," it seems no longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold food, and of difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat, however, it is esteemed one of the most agreeable.
THE CUCUMBER.—This fruit has a long history. In the sacred texts, we see that the Israelites missed it while wandering in the desert. Today, cucumbers and similar fruits make up a significant part of the diet of the Egyptian people. They have always been valued by Eastern nations, as well as by the Greeks and Romans. Like melons, they were first brought from Asia by the Romans, and by the 14th century, they were common in England, although they appeared to fall out of cultivation during the Wars of the Roses. Cucumbers are considered a cold food and can be difficult to digest when eaten raw. However, they are highly regarded as a preserved sweet treat.
EGG SOUP.
128. INGREDIENTS.—A tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small blades of finely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
128. INGREDIENTS.—A tablespoon of flour, 4 eggs, 2 small pieces of finely ground mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock, and put in the eggs; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the time. Simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Season and serve with a French roll in the tureen, or fried sippets of bread.
Mode.—Mix the flour smoothly in a teaspoon of cold broth, then add the eggs; pour them into boiling broth, stirring constantly. Simmer for 15 minutes. Season and serve with a French roll in the tureen, or fried bits of bread.
Time. 1/2 an hour. Average cost,11d. per quart.
Time: 30 minutes. Average cost: 11 pence per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonal all year round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
SOUP A LA FLAMANDE (Flemish).
Flemish Soup.
I.
129. INGREDIENTS.—1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 green onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 1/4 pint of asparagus cut small, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
129. INGREDIENTS.—1 turnip, 1 small carrot, 1/2 head of celery, 6 green onions finely chopped, 1 head of lettuce chopped, chervil, 1/4 pint of asparagus chopped, 1/4 pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take the soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. to it, and keep stirring it well. Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.
Mode.—Place the vegetables in the butter and let them cook gently for an hour with a cup of stock; then add the rest of the stock and simmer for another hour. Now beat the egg yolks well, mix them with the cream (which should be boiled beforehand), and strain through a fine sieve. Remove the soup from the heat, add the eggs, etc., and keep stirring well. Bring it to a boil, but continue stirring, or the eggs will curdle. Season with salt and add the sugar.
Time.—24 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d. per quart.
Time.—24 hours. Average cost, £1.45 per quart.
Seasonable from May to August.
Seasonal from May to August.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Sufficient for 8 people.
CHERVIL.—Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves.
CHERVIL.—Even though the roots of this plant are toxic, its leaves are soft and are used in salads. In ancient times, it was used to make a tasty dish when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It grows natively in different parts of Europe, and the variety grown in the gardens of Paris has beautifully curled leaves.
II.
130. INGREDIENTS.—5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized potatoes, 3 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
130. INGREDIENTS.—5 onions, 5 stalks of celery, 10 medium-sized potatoes, 3 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with the butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill up the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done, which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add the cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in.
Mode.—Chop the onions, celery, and potatoes, then add them along with the butter and water to a saucepan, and let it simmer for an hour. Next, fill the saucepan with stock and gently boil until the potatoes are cooked, which will take about an hour. Strain everything through a fine sieve, and stir in the cream (that you've boiled beforehand). Avoid boiling the mixture after adding the cream.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.
Time.—2.5 hours. __Average cost_, £1.20 per quart.
Seasonable from September to May.
Seasonal from September to May.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—This soup can be made with water instead of stock.
Note.—You can make this soup using water instead of stock.
SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
[Illustration: STRIPS OF VEGETABLE.]
[Illustration: VEGGIE STRIPS.]
131. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
131. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 head of lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil, if desired, 2 oz. of butter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and be particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger pieces; fry the carrots in the butter, and pour the stock boiling to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, and stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and serve.
Mode.—Slice the vegetables into strips about 1-1/4 inches long, making sure they’re all the same size, or some will be tough while others end up mushy. Chop the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger pieces; sauté the carrots in the butter, then add boiling stock. Once that’s done, mix in all the other vegetables and herbs, and simmer gently for at least an hour. Remove any fat that rises to the top, ladle the soup over thin slices of bread cut to the size of a shilling, and serve.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
Note.—In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. can be added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the stock.
Note.—In summer, you can add green peas, asparagus tips, French beans, etc. When the vegetables have a strong flavor, instead of frying them in butter at the beginning, they should be blanched and then simmered in the stock.
SORREL.—This is one of the spinaceous plants, which take their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved.
SORREL.—This is one of the spinach plants, named after spinach, the most notable among them. It isn't commonly used in English cooking, but it's very popular in French cuisine, where it's used for soups, sauces, and salads. In English meadows, it usually grows wild, but in France, where it's cultivated, its flavor is significantly enhanced.
KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).
KALE BROSE (a Scotch drink).
132. INGREDIENTS.—Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.
132. INGREDIENTS.—Half an ox head or cow heel, a teacup of toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy mass, but form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot.
Method.—Make a broth from the ox head or cow heel, and boil it until oil floats on the surface. Then, boil the shredded greens in it. Put the oatmeal and a little salt into a bowl, and quickly mix in a teacupful of the fatty broth: it should not turn into one doughy mass, but instead form clumps. Stir it into the mixture, give it one boil, and serve very hot.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 8d. per quart.
Time—4 hours. Average cost, 8d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.
Good all year round, but more appropriate in winter.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
LEEK SOUP.
I.
133. INGREDIENTS.—A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken.
133. INGREDIENTS.—A sheep's head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks chopped small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal for thickening.
Mode.—Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin very nicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boiling water; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours. Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the soup tolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the whole is blended and well done, and serve.
Mode.—Prepare the head by either skinning it or cleaning the skin thoroughly; cut it in half; remove the brains and place them in boiling water; add the leeks and seasoning, and let it simmer very gently for 4 hours. Mix enough oatmeal with cold water to make the soup reasonably thick; pour it into the soup; keep stirring until everything is blended and cooked well, then serve.
Time.—4-1/2 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Time.—4.5 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Winter-ready.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
II.
COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE.
134. INGREDIENTS.—A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock, from which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed as for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105, pepper and salt to taste.
134. INGREDIENTS.—A capon or large chicken (sometimes an old rooster, which is where the recipe gets its name) that should be prepared for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fresh leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling water for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cut them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with, at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In half an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. In serving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in a tureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick of leeks (a purée of leeks the French would call it).
Mode.—Thoroughly wash the leeks (and if they're old, briefly scald them in boiling water for a few minutes), trimming off the roots and a part of the tops, and cut them into pieces about an inch long. Place the chicken in the stock, adding half of the leeks at first, and let it simmer gently. After half an hour, add the remaining leeks and let it simmer for an additional 3 or 4 hours. Be sure to skim it carefully, and season to taste. When serving, remove the chicken, carve it neatly, and arrange the pieces in a serving bowl, pouring the soup over them, which should be very thick with leeks (a purée of leeks, as the French would say).
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per quart; or, with stock No. 106, 1s.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, £0.08 per quart; or, with stock No. 106, £0.05.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Good for 10 people.
Note.—Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely called leek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie was largely consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, in 1859.
Note.—Without the chicken, what is called leek soup is still very good and affordable. Cock-a-leekie was widely enjoyed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, in 1859.
[Illustration: LEEKS.]
[Illustration: LEEKS.]
THE LEEK.—As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert. It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion, garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food, are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than any other genus of edible plants. It is the national badge of the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek on St. David's day, among that people, is thus given in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"—"It probably originated from the custom of Cymhortha, or the friendly aid, practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks with him for making the broth or soup." (See ST. DAVID.) Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.
THE LEEK.—Like the cucumber, this vegetable was mourned by the Israelites during their journey through the desert. It belongs to the allium family, which includes onions, garlic, chives, shallots, and leeks. These foods are probably more widely consumed around the world than any other group of edible plants. The leek is a national symbol for the Welsh, and tradition attributes its introduction to that region of Britain to St. David. The custom of wearing a leek on St. David's Day among the Welsh is explained in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION": "It likely originated from the tradition of Cymhortha, or neighborly assistance, practiced among farmers. In some areas of South Wales, neighbors of a small farmer would set a day to come together and help plow his fields, and during this time, each would bring some leeks for making broth or soup." (See ST. DAVID.) Others trace the origin of this custom back to the battle of Cressy. The plant tends to be sharper when grown in Wales and Scotland compared to England, and many prefer its flavor over that of the onion in broth. It’s very healthy, and to avoid bad breath, it should be cooked well.
MACARONI SOUP.
135. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.
135. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.
Mode.—Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinch of salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut it into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.
Mode.—Add the macaroni and butter to boiling water, along with a pinch of salt, and let it simmer for 30 minutes. Once it's tender, drain it and slice it into thin rings or lengths, then add it to the boiling stock. Let it stew gently for 15 minutes, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonal all year round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Fits 8 people.
[Illustration: MACARONI.]
[Illustration: MACARONI.]
MACARONI.—This is the favourite food of Italy, where, especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the staff of life. "The crowd of London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down, and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers' stalls, and you dash among the pots of a macaroni stall." This article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel, pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom. Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time, drawn away and hung over rods placed about the room, in order to dry. In a few days it is fit for use. As it is both wholesome and nutritious, it ought to be much more used by all classes in England than it is. It generally accompanies Parmesan cheese to the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening soups and making puddings.
MACARONI.—This is Italy's favorite food, especially among the Neapolitans, where it can be seen as a staple. "The crowd in London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a fast-moving double line; it represents the world of business. The crowd in Naples is more like a flowing tide with countless eddies of people. You find yourself stopped by a carpenter's bench, lost among shoemakers' stalls, and weaving through the pots of a macaroni stall." This food is simply a thick paste made from high-quality wheat flour mixed with a bit of water. Once it has been kneaded well, it is placed into a hollow cylindrical vessel with holes at the bottom, about the size of tobacco pipes. A powerful screw pushes the mixture through these holes, while a piece of wood fits snugly inside the cylinder. As it comes out of the holes, it is partially cooked by a flame underneath and is simultaneously hung over rods in the room to dry. In a few days, it’s ready to use. Since it is both healthy and nutritious, it should be consumed much more by all classes in England than it currently is. It usually accompanies Parmesan cheese on the tables of the wealthy, but it is also used to thicken soups and make puddings.
SOUP MAIGRE (i.e. without Meat).
VEGETABLE SOUP (i.e. without Meat).
136. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery, 2 lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of bread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water.
136. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. butter, 6 sliced onions, 4 heads of celery, 2 heads of lettuce, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of bread crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 3 teaspoons of vinegar, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stew gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now put in the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1-1/2 hour, and, at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the vinegar, but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Mode.—Melt the butter in a saucepan, and add the onions to sauté gently for 3 or 4 minutes; then mix in the celery, spinach, lettuce, and parsley, chopped finely. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. Now add the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Simmer gently for 1-1/2 hours, and just before serving, whisk in the egg yolks and vinegar, but do not let it boil, or the eggs will scramble.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.
Time: 2 hours. Average cost: 6p per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Year-round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
[Illustration: LETTUCE.]
[Illustration: LETTUCE.]
THE LETTUCE.—This is one of the acetarious vegetables, which comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads, and other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb; the Greeks delighted in it, and the Romans, in the time of Domitian, had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first course at their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its botanical name is Lactuca, so called from the milky juice it exudes when its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue, noticed by ancient physicians; and even in our day a lettuce supper is deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character, however, is that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very nutritive, but serving as a corrective, or diluent of animal food.
THE LETTUCE.—This is one of the leafy vegetables that belong to a large group mainly used as pickles, salads, and various condiments. Lettuce has been recognized since ancient times as a kitchen-garden plant. The Hebrews ate it raw with the Passover lamb; the Greeks enjoyed it, and the Romans, during the time of Domitian, had it cooked with eggs and served as an appetizer to whet their appetites. Its botanical name is Lactuca, taken from the milky juice it releases when its stalks are cut. It has a calming effect, noted by ancient physicians, and even today, having a lettuce dinner is believed to help with relaxation. However, its main characteristic is that of a refreshing summer vegetable, not very nourishing, but serving to balance or dilute meat dishes.
MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children).
MILK SOUP (a Great Dish for Kids).
137. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, or more if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs.
137. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of milk, 1 pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoons of powdered sugar, or more if desired, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs.
Mode.—Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar; lay the bread in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add them to the milk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let it curdle. Pour it upon the bread, and serve.
Method.—Heat the milk with salt, cinnamon, and sugar; place the bread in a deep dish, pour a little of the milk over it, and keep it warm on the stove without burning. Beat the egg yolks, mix them into the milk, and stir it over the heat until it thickens. Be careful not to let it curdle. Pour it over the bread and serve.
Time.—3/4 of an hour. Average cost, 8d. per quart.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, 8p. per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 10 children.
Enough for 10 kids.
ONION SOUP.
138. INGREDIENTS.—6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105.
138. INGREDIENTS.—6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them occasionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to them, and season; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream.
Mode.—Chop the onions, add them to the butter, stirring occasionally, but avoid browning them. Once they're tender, add the stock and season; strain the soup, then mix in the boiling cream.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time: 1.5 hours. Average cost: £0.05 per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
CHEAP ONION SOUP.
139. INGREDIENTS.—8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a tablespoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water.
139. INGREDIENTS.—8 medium-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a tablespoon of rice flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, a thickening made of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the butter, and fry them well; mix the rice-flour smoothly with the water, add the onions, seasoning, and sugar, and simmer till tender. Thicken with butter and flour, and serve.
Method.—Chop the onions finely, put them in a saucepan with the butter, and sauté them well; blend the rice flour smoothly with the water, add the onions, seasoning, and sugar, and let it simmer until tender. Thicken with butter and flour, and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost,4d. per quart.
Duration.—2 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
[Illustration: ONION.]
[Illustration: ONION.]
THE ONION.—Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an object of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before the Christian era, and it still forms a favourite food in the country of these people, as well as in other parts of Africa. When it was first introduced to England, has not been ascertained; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates it is much milder in its flavour; and such as are grown in Spain and Portugal, are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are often eaten both in a boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is the most esteemed; and, although all the species have highly nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable odour to the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are liked. Chewing a little raw parsley is said to remove this odour.
THE ONION.—Like cabbage, this plant was worshipped by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before the Christian era, and it continues to be a popular food in their country as well as in other parts of Africa. It's unclear when it was first brought to England, but it has been used for a long time and is valued as a favorite seasoning for various dishes. In warmer climates, its flavor is much milder; onions grown in Spain and Portugal, for example, are relatively large and are often eaten either boiled or roasted. The Strasburg onion is the most prized; and although all varieties have great nutritional properties, they cause such an unpleasant smell on the breath that they are often avoided even by those who enjoy them. Chewing a bit of raw parsley is said to help eliminate this odor.
PAN KAIL.
140. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of cabbage, or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. of butter or dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening, 2 quarts of water.
140. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of cabbage or Savoy greens; 1/4 lb. of butter or fat; salt and pepper to taste; oatmeal for thickening; 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal, put in the cabbage and butter, or dripping; season and simmer for 1-1/2 hour. It can be made sooner by blanching and mashing the greens, adding any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and then further thicken with bread or pounded biscuit.
Mode.—Finely chop the cabbage, thicken the water with oatmeal, then add the cabbage and butter, or fat. Season and let it simmer for 1.5 hours. You can speed up the process by blanching and mashing the greens, adding any flavorful broth from cooking meat, and then further thickening it with bread or crushed biscuits.
Time—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1-1/2d. per quart.
Time—1.5 hours. Average cost, 1.5d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.
Good all year round, but best in winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Suitable for 8 people.
THE SAVOY.—This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage, sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves, and in season from November to spring. The yellow species bears hard weather without injury, whilst the dwarf kind are improved and rendered more tender by frost.
THE SAVOY.—This is a tightly wrapped, wrinkled-leaf cabbage that is sweet and tender, especially the inner leaves, and is in season from November to spring. The yellow variety withstands harsh weather without damage, while the dwarf type becomes even sweeter and more tender after a frost.
PARSNIP SOUP.
141. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.
141. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.
Mode.—Put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter, which has been previously melted, and simmer them till quite tender. Then add nearly a pint of stock, and boil together for half an hour. Pass all through a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder of the stock. Season, boil, and serve immediately.
Method.—Place the parsnips into the saucepan with the melted butter and simmer them until they are completely tender. Then add almost a pint of stock and boil everything together for half an hour. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve, and add the remaining stock. Season to taste, boil again, and serve immediately.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.
Time: 2 hours. Average cost: 6d. per quart.
Seasonable from October to April.
Available from October to April.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
THE PARSNIP.—This is a biennial plant, with a root like a carrot, which, in nutritive and saccharine matter, it nearly equals. It is a native of Britain, and, in its wild state, may be found, in many parts, growing by the road-sides. It is also to be found, generally distributed over Europe; and, in Catholic countries, is mostly used with salt fish, in Lent. In Scotland it forms an excellent dish, when beat up with butter and potatoes; it is, also, excellent when fried. In Ireland it is found to yield, in conjunction with the hop, a pleasant beverage; and it contains as much spirit as the carrot, and makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is 99 parts in 1,000; 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar.
THE PARSNIP.—This is a biennial plant with a root similar to a carrot, which is almost equal to it in nutritional and sugary content. It's native to Britain and can often be found in the wild growing along roadsides. It's also widely distributed across Europe and is commonly used with salted fish during Lent in Catholic countries. In Scotland, it makes a great dish when mashed with butter and potatoes, and it’s also delicious when fried. In Ireland, it’s combined with hops to create a tasty beverage, and it has as much alcohol content as carrots, making it a good candidate for wine. Its nutritional composition is 99 parts out of 1,000, with 9 being mucilage and 90 sugar.
PEA SOUP (GREEN).
142. INGREDIENTS.—3 pints of green peas, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 or three thin slices of ham, 6 onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of 2 French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of common stock.
142. INGREDIENTS.—3 pints of green peas, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 or 3 thin slices of ham, 6 sliced onions, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of 2 French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of regular stock.
Mode.—Put the butter, ham, 1 quart of the peas, onions, and lettuces, to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour; then add the remainder of the stock, with the crumb of the French rolls, and boil for another hour. Now boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry. Rub the soup through a sieve, and the spinach with it, to colour it. Have ready a pint of young peas boiled; add them to the soup, put in the sugar, give one boil, and serve. If necessary, add salt.
Method.—Melt the butter and add the ham, 1 quart of peas, onions, and lettuce to a pint of stock. Let it simmer for an hour; then mix in the rest of the stock along with the crumbs from the French rolls, and boil for another hour. Next, cook the spinach and squeeze it until it's very dry. Strain the soup through a sieve, adding the spinach to give it color. Have a pint of young peas ready; boil them and add to the soup, along with the sugar. Bring it to a boil once more, then serve. If needed, add salt.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d. per quart.
Time.—2.5 hours. Average cost, £0.09 per quart.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
In season from June to the end of August.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
Note.—It will be well to add, if the peas are not quite young, a little sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead of stock for this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells; but use a double quantity of vegetables.
Note.—It’s a good idea to add a bit of sugar if the peas aren’t very young. If you need to save money, you can use water instead of stock for this soup, boiling the pea shells in it as well; just be sure to double the amount of vegetables.
WINTER PEA SOUP (YELLOW).
143. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, trimmings of meat or poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2 turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of soft water, any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts of common stock, or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled.
143. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. of beef shin, leftover meat or poultry trimmings, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2 turnips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of soft water, any bones left from roasted meat, 2 quarts of basic stock, or the liquid from boiling a piece of meat.
Mode.—Put the peas to soak over-night in soft water, and float off such as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough to pulp; then add the ingredients mentioned above, and simmer for 2 hours, stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve, skim well, season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice.
Mode.—Soak the peas overnight in soft water, and discard any that float to the top. Boil them in the water until they're soft enough to mash; then add the ingredients listed above and simmer for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Strain the mixture through a sieve, skim off the excess, season it, and serve with toasted bread cut into cubes.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart. Seasonable all the year round, but more suitable for cold weather. Sufficient for 12 persons.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart. Good for all year round, but better for cold weather. Serves 12 people.
[Illustration: PEA.]
[Illustration: PEA.]
THE PEA.—It is supposed that the common gray pea, found wild in Greece, and other parts of the Levant, is the original of the common garden pea, and of all the domestic varieties belonging to it. The gray, or field pea, called bisallie by the French, is less subject to run into varieties than the garden kinds, and is considered by some, perhaps on that account, to be the wild plant, retaining still a large proportion of its original habit. From the tendency of all other varieties "to run away" and become different to what they originally were, it is very difficult to determine the races to which they belong. The pea was well known to the Romans, and, probably, was introduced to Britain at an early period; for we find peas mentioned by Lydgate, a poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London. They seem, however, for a considerable time, to have fallen out of use; for, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Fuller tells us they were brought from Holland, and were accounted "fit dainties for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear." There are some varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods, which are eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-beans. They are called sugar peas, and the best variety is the large crooked sugar, which is also very good, used in the common way, as a culinary vegetable. There is also a white sort, which readily splits when subjected to the action of millstones set wide apart, so as not to grind them. These are used largely for soups, and especially for sea-stores. From the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine matter contained in the pea, it is highly nutritious as an article of food.
THE PEA.—It’s believed that the common gray pea, which grows wild in Greece and other parts of the Levant, is the ancestor of the common garden pea and all its domestic varieties. The gray or field pea, known as bisallie in French, tends to produce fewer varieties than the garden types and is thought by some to be the wild plant, still keeping a significant part of its original characteristics. Due to the tendency of all other varieties to change and become different from their original form, it’s challenging to identify their specific types. The Romans were familiar with the pea, and it was likely brought to Britain early on; for instance, Lydgate, a 15th-century poet, mentions peas being sold in London. However, they seem to have fallen out of favor for a long time, as during Queen Elizabeth's reign, Fuller notes that they were imported from Holland and considered "fit dainties for ladies, they came so far and cost so dear." Some varieties of peas have no lining in their pods and are cooked just like kidney beans. These are called sugar peas, with the best variety being the large crooked sugar pea, which is also great when used as a regular cooking vegetable. There is also a white variety that easily splits when processed with millstones set far apart, avoiding grinding them. These are commonly used for soups and particularly for sea provisions. Thanks to the high starch and sugar content in peas, they are very nutritious as a food source.
PEA SOUP (inexpensive).
Pea Soup (budget-friendly).
144. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of onions, 1/4 lb. of carrots, 2 oz. of celery, 3/4 lb. of split peas, a little mint, shred fine; 1 tablespoonful of coarse brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts of water, or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled.
144. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of onions, 1/4 lb. of carrots, 2 oz. of celery, 3/4 lb. of split peas, a bit of finely shredded mint; 1 tablespoon of coarse brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts of water, or the liquid from boiling a cut of meat.
Mode.—Fry the vegetables for 10 minutes in a little butter or dripping, previously cutting them up in small pieces; pour the water on them, and when boiling add the peas. Let them simmer for nearly 3 hours, or until the peas are thoroughly done. Add the sugar, seasoning, and mint; boil for 1/4 of an hour, and serve.
Mode.—Sauté the vegetables for 10 minutes in a bit of butter or fat, making sure to chop them into small pieces first; then pour water over them, and when it starts boiling, add the peas. Let everything simmer for about 3 hours, or until the peas are fully cooked. Stir in the sugar, seasoning, and mint; boil for 15 minutes, and serve.
Time.—3-1/2 hours. Average cost, 1-1/2d. per quart.
Time.—3.5 hours. Average cost, 1.5d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 12 persons.
Enough for 12 people.
POTATO SOUP.
I.
145. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of mealy potatoes, boiled or steamed very dry, pepper and salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
145. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of starchy potatoes, boiled or steamed until very dry, pepper and salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—When the potatoes are boiled, mash them smoothly, that no lumps remain, and gradually put them to the boiling stock; pass it through a sieve, season, and simmer for 5 minutes. Skim well, and serve with fried bread.
Mode.—When the potatoes are boiled, mash them until they're smooth and lump-free, then gradually add them to the boiling stock; strain it through a sieve, season it, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Skim it well, and serve with fried bread.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 10d. per quart.
Time: 30 minutes. Average cost: 10 pence per quart.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
II.
146. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of shin of beef, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 onion, 1/2 a pint of peas, 2 oz. of rice, 2 heads of celery, pepper and salt to taste, 3 quarts of water.
146. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of beef shin, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 onion, 1/2 a pint of peas, 2 oz. of rice, 2 stalks of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut the beef into thin slices, chop the potatoes and onion, and put them in a stewpan with the water, peas, and rice. Stew gently till the gravy is drawn from the meat; strain it off, take out the beef, and pulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp back in the soup, cut up the celery in it, and simmer till this is tender. Season, and serve with fried bread cut into it.
Mode.—Slice the beef thinly, chop the potatoes and onion, and place them in a pot with the water, peas, and rice. Simmer gently until the meat releases its juices; strain it out, remove the beef, and mash the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Return the mash to the soup, chop the celery into it, and simmer until it's tender. Season, and serve with fried bread mixed in.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Time—3 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
Sufficient for 12 persons.
Sufficient for 12 people.
III.
(Very Economical.)
(Budget-Friendly.)
147. INGREDIENTS.—4 middle-sized potatoes well pared, a thick slice of bread, 6 leeks peeled and cut into thin slices as far as the white extends upwards from the roots, a teacupful of rice, a teaspoonful of salt, and half that of pepper, and 2 quarts of water.
147. INGREDIENTS.—4 medium-sized potatoes, peeled; a thick slice of bread; 6 leeks, peeled and sliced thinly up to the white part; a teacup of rice; a teaspoon of salt; half a teaspoon of pepper; and 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—The water must be completely boiling before anything is put into it; then add the whole of the ingredients at once, with the exception of the rice, the salt, and the pepper. Cover, and let these come to a brisk boil; put in the others, and let the whole boil slowly for an hour, or till all the ingredients are thoroughly done, and their several juices extracted and mixed.
Mode.—The water needs to be fully boiling before you add anything. Then, add all the ingredients at once, except for the rice, salt, and pepper. Cover the pot and bring it back to a vigorous boil; then add the rest and let everything simmer for an hour, or until all the ingredients are fully cooked and their juices have combined.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. Average cost, 3d. per quart.
Time.—2.5 hours. Average cost, 3p per quart.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
[Illustration: POTATOES.]
[Illustration: POTATOES.]
THE POTATO.—Humboldt doubted whether this root was a native of South America; but it has been found growing wild both in Chili and Buenos Ayres. It was first brought to Spain from the neighbourhood of Quito, in the early part of the sixteenth century, first to England from Virginia, in 1586, and first planted by Sir Walter Raleigh, on his estate of Youghal, near Cork, in Ireland. Thence it was brought and planted in Lancashire, in England, and was, at first, recommended to be eaten as a delicate dish, and not as common food. This was in 1587. Nutritious Properties.—Of a thousand parts of the potato, Sir H. Davy found about a fourth nutritive; say, 200 mucilage or starch, 20 sugar, and 30 gluten.
THE POTATO.—Humboldt questioned whether this root originally came from South America, but it has been found growing wild in both Chile and Buenos Aires. It was first brought to Spain from the area around Quito in the early sixteenth century, then to England from Virginia in 1586, where it was first planted by Sir Walter Raleigh on his estate in Youghal, near Cork, Ireland. From there, it was brought and planted in Lancashire, England, and initially recommended as a fancy dish rather than as everyday food. This was in 1587. Nutritious Properties.—Of a thousand parts of the potato, Sir H. Davy found about a fourth to be nutritious; approximately 200 parts mucilage or starch, 20 parts sugar, and 30 parts gluten.
PRINCE OF WALES'S SOUP.
148. INGREDIENTS.—12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 spoonfuls of strong veal stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very bright stock, No. 105.
148. INGREDIENTS.—12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 tablespoons of strong veal stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very clear stock, No. 105.
Mode.—Peel the turnips, and with a cutter cut them in balls as round as possible, but very small. Put them in the stock, which must be very bright, and simmer till tender. Add the veal stock and seasoning. Have little pieces of bread cut round, about the size of a shilling; moisten them with stock; put them into a tureen and pour the soup over without shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the appearance of the soup, and make it look thick.
Mode.—Peel the turnips and use a cutter to shape them into small, round balls. Put them in the stock, which should be very clear, and simmer until tender. Add the veal stock and seasoning. Cut small rounds of bread, about the size of a coin; moisten them with stock; place them in a serving bowl and pour the soup over gently, to avoid crumbling the bread, which would ruin the soup’s appearance and make it look thick.
Time.—2 hours.
Time.—2 hrs.
Seasonable in the winter.
In season during winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
THE PRINCE Of WALES.—This soup was invented by a philanthropic friend of the Editress, to be distributed among the poor of a considerable village, when the Prince of Wales attained his majority, on the 9th November, 1859. Accompanying this fact, the following notice, which appears in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF UNIVERSAL INFORMATION" may appropriately be introduced, premising that British princes attain their majority in their 18th year, whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that period till their 21st.—"ALBERT EDWARD, Prince of Wales, and heir to the British throne, merits a place in this work on account of the high responsibilities which he is, in all probability, destined to fulfil as sovereign of the British empire. On the 10th of November, 1858, he was gazetted as having been invested with the rank of a colonel in the army. Speaking of this circumstance, the Times said,—'The significance of this event is, that it marks the period when the heir to the British throne is about to take rank among men, and to enter formally upon a career, which every loyal subject of the queen will pray may be a long and a happy one, for his own sake and for the sake of the vast empire which, in the course of nature, he will one day be called to govern. The best wish that we can offer for the young prince is, that in his own path he may ever keep before him the bright example of his royal mother, and show himself worthy of her name.' There are few in these realms who will not give a fervent response to these sentiments. B. November 9th, 1841."
THE PRINCE OF WALES.—This soup was created by a charitable friend of the Editress, to be shared with the poor of a sizable village when the Prince of Wales turned 18 on November 9, 1859. Along with this fact, the following notice, which appears in "BEETON'S DICTIONARY OF UNIVERSAL INFORMATION," is worth including, noting that British princes reach adulthood at 18, while those of ordinary status do so at 21.—"ALBERT EDWARD, Prince of Wales, and heir to the British throne, deserves recognition in this work due to the significant responsibilities he is likely to take on as the future sovereign of the British empire. On November 10, 1858, he was officially appointed as a colonel in the army. Commenting on this event, the Times stated, 'The significance of this milestone is that it signifies the moment when the heir to the British throne begins to take a place among men and to formally start a career that every loyal subject of the queen will hope is long and successful, for his own sake and for the vast empire that he will one day be expected to lead. Our best wish for the young prince is that he may always strive to follow the shining example of his royal mother and prove himself deserving of her name.' There are few in this realm who would not respond wholeheartedly to these sentiments. B. November 9, 1841."
POTAGE PRINTANIER, OR SPRING SOUP.
149. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 a pint of green peas, if in season, a little chervil, 2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of parsley, 2 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
149. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 a pint of green peas, if in season, a bit of chervil, 2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a tiny bunch of parsley, 2 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Put in a very clean stewpan the chervil, lettuces, onions, parsley, and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let them simmer till tender. Season with salt and pepper; when done, strain off the vegetables, and put two-thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to the stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it a toss over the fire, and at the moment of serving, add this, with the vegetables which you strained off, to the soup.
Method.—In a clean saucepan, combine the chervil, lettuces, onions, parsley, and butter with 1 pint of water, and let them simmer until tender. Season with salt and pepper; once done, strain out the vegetables and add two-thirds of the liquid they were cooked in to the stock. Whisk the egg yolks with the remaining third of the liquid, briefly heat over the fire, and just before serving, mix this in along with the strained vegetables to the soup.
Time.—3/4 of an hour. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, £0.05 per quart.
Seasonable from May to October.
Available from May to October.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Suitable for 8 people.
RICE SOUP.
I.
150. INGREDIENTS.—4 oz. of Patna rice, salt, cayenne, and mace, 2 quarts of white stock.
150. INGREDIENTS.—4 oz. of Patna rice, salt, cayenne pepper, and mace, 2 quarts of white stock.
Mode.—Throw the rice into boiling water, and let it remain 5 minutes; then pour it into a sieve, and allow it to drain well. Now add it to the stock boiling, and allow it to stew till it is quite tender; season to taste. Serve quickly.
Mode.—Put the rice into boiling water and let it sit for 5 minutes; then pour it into a strainer and let it drain well. Next, add it to the boiling stock and let it simmer until it’s completely tender; season to your liking. Serve promptly.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, £1.15 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
[Illustration: EARS OF RICE.]
[Illustration: Rice Ears.]
RICE.—This is a plant of Indian origin, and has formed the principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from the most remote antiquity. Both Pliny and Dioscorides class it with the cereals, though Galen places it among the vegetables. Be this as it may, however, it was imported to Greece, from India, about 286 years before Christ, and by the ancients it was esteemed both nutritious and fattening. There are three kinds of rice,—the Hill rice, the Patna, and the Carolina, of the United States. Of these, only the two latter are imported to this country, and the Carolina is considered the best, as it is the dearest. The nourishing properties of rice are greatly inferior to those of wheat; but it is both a light and a wholesome food. In combination with other foods, its nutritive qualities are greatly increased; but from its having little stimulating power, it is apt, when taken in large quantities alone, to lie long on the stomach.
RICE.—This plant comes from India and has been the main food source for people in India and China since ancient times. Both Pliny and Dioscorides categorized it with grains, while Galen classified it as a vegetable. Regardless, it was brought to Greece from India around 286 B.C., and the ancients regarded it as both nutritious and fattening. There are three types of rice: Hill rice, Patna, and Carolina from the United States. Of these, only the latter two are imported to this country, with Carolina being the best and most expensive. The nutritional value of rice is much lower than that of wheat, but it is light and healthy. When combined with other foods, its nutritional benefits increase significantly; however, because it lacks stimulating properties, consuming it in large amounts on its own can lead to it sitting heavily in the stomach.
II.
151. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 a pint of cream, rather more than 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
151. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1/2 a pint of cream, a little more than 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Boil the rice in the stock, and rub half of it through a tammy; put the stock in the stewpan, add all the rice, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve; take the soup off the fire, add the eggs and cream, stirring frequently. Heat it gradually, stirring all the time; but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Mode.—Cook the rice in the broth, and strain half of it through a fine sieve; put the broth in a pot, add all the rice, and let it simmer gently for 5 minutes. Whisk the egg yolks, mix them with the cream (which should be heated first), and strain through a fine mesh strainer; remove the soup from the heat, add the eggs and cream, stirring often. Gradually heat it while continuing to stir, but don't let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 4d. per quart.
Time: 2 hours. Average cost: £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonal all year round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
SAGO SOUP.
152. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
152. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Wash the sago in boiling water, and add it, by degrees, to the boiling stock, and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved, and forms a sort of jelly.
Mode.—Rinse the sago in boiling water, then gradually add it to the boiling stock, and simmer until the sago is completely dissolved and creates a jelly-like consistency.
Time.—Nearly an hour. Average cost, 10d. per quart.
Time.—Almost an hour. Average cost, 10p. per quart.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
Seasonable all the year.
Available all year round.
Note.—The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream, previously boiled, and added at the moment of serving, much improves this soup.
Note.—The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten with a little cream, boiled beforehand, and added just before serving, greatly enhance this soup.
[Illustration: SAGO PALM.]
[Illustration: Sago Palm.]
SAGO.—The farinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of the SAGO tree (the Sagus farinifera of Linnaeus), which grows spontaneously in the East Indies and in the archipelago of the Indian Ocean. There it forms the principal farinaceous diet of the inhabitants. In order to procure it, the tree is felled and sawn in pieces. The pith is then taken out, and put in receptacles of cold water, where it is stirred until the flour separates from the filaments, and sinks to the bottom, where it is suffered to remain until the water is poured off, when it is taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry. To give it the round granular form in which we find it come to this country, it is passed through a colander, then rubbed into little balls, and dried. The tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a growth of seven years, when a single trunk will yield 600 lbs. weight; and, as an acre of ground will grow 430 of these trees, a large return of flour is the result. The best quality has a slightly reddish hue, and easily dissolves to a jelly, in hot water. As a restorative diet, it is much used.
SAGO.—This starchy food comes from the pith of the SAGO tree (Sagus farinifera), which grows naturally in the East Indies and the islands of the Indian Ocean. It is a staple starch for the local people. To harvest it, the tree is cut down and sawed into pieces. The pith is extracted and placed in containers of cold water, where it is stirred until the flour separates from the fibers and settles at the bottom. After the water is poured off, the flour is removed and spread on wicker frames to dry. To achieve the round granular shape that we find in this country, the flour is passed through a colander, then rolled into small balls and dried. The tree must be at least seven years old before it can be cut down, and a single trunk can yield 600 lbs. of flour. Additionally, since an acre of land can support 430 of these trees, it produces a significant amount of flour. The highest quality has a slightly reddish tint and dissolves easily into a jelly when mixed with hot water. It is widely used as a restorative food.
SEMOLINA SOUP.
153. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock, No. 105, or 106.
153. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock, No. 105, or 106.
Mode.—Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring, to prevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve.
Mode.—Add the semolina to the boiling stock and keep stirring to prevent it from burning. Let it simmer gently for half an hour, then serve.
Time.—1/2 an hour. Average cost, 10d. per quart, or 4d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, 10 pence per quart, or 4 pence.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
SEMOLINA.—This is the heart of the grano duro wheat of Italy, which is imported for the purpose of making the best vermicelli. It has a coarse appearance, and may be purchased at the Italian warehouses. It is also called soojee; and semoletta is another name for a finer sort.
SEMOLINA.—This is the core of the grano duro wheat from Italy, imported to make the finest vermicelli. It has a rough texture and can be found in Italian stores. It's also referred to as soojee; and semoletta is another term for a finer variety.
SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe).
SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe).
154. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter, salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of bouillon, No. 105.
154. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter, salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of broth, No. 105.
Mode.—Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream, butter, and seasoning; stir in as much flour as will bring it to the consistency of dough; make it into balls, either round or egg-shaped, and fry them in butter; put them in the tureen, and pour the boiling bouillon over them.
Method.—Whisk the eggs, then place them in a saucepan, and mix in the cream, butter, and seasoning; incorporate enough flour to achieve a dough-like consistency; shape the mixture into balls, either round or oval, and fry them in butter; transfer them to a serving dish, and pour the hot broth over them.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time: 1 hour. Average cost: 1s. 3d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Year-round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Sufficient for 8 people.
Note.—This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an English gentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24, 1859, and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel's troops, on the day before the battle, to partake of a portion of their potage. He willingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners had made a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials. In sending the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however, Anglicised, and somewhat, he thinks, improved it.
Note.—This recipe was shared with the editor by an English gentleman who was at the battle of Solferino on June 24, 1859. The day before the battle, some of Victor Emmanuel's troops asked him to enjoy a portion of their potage. He gladly agreed and discovered that these resourceful soldiers had created a very tasty dish from readily available ingredients. In sending the recipe for inclusion in this work, he has made it more English and, as he believes, improved it somewhat.
SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).
SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).
155. INGREDIENTS.—As much spinach as, when boiled, will half fill a vegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock, No. 105.
155. INGREDIENTS.—Enough spinach to half fill a vegetable dish when boiled, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock, No. 105.
Mode.—Make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and slip them into the soup-tureen. This is a very elegant soup, the green of the spinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy.
Mode.—Shape the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and gently add them to the soup tureen. This is a very elegant soup, with the green of the spinach creating a beautiful contrast against the brown gravy.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost,1s. per quart.
Time: 1 hour. Average cost: 1 shilling per quart.
Seasonable from October to June.
Seasonal from October to June.
[Illustration: SPINACH.]
[Illustration: SPINACH.]
SPINACH.—This plant was unknown by the ancients, although it was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the middle of the 14th century. Some say, that it was originally brought from Spain; but there is a wild species growing in England, and cultivated in Lincolnshire, in preference to the other. There are three varieties in use; the round-leaved, the triangular-leaved, and Flanders spinach, known by its large leaves. They all form a useful ingredient in soup; but the leaves are sometimes boiled alone, mashed, and eaten as greens.
SPINACH.—This plant was unknown to the ancients, but it was grown in the monastic gardens of the continent in the mid-14th century. Some say it was originally brought from Spain; however, there is a wild variety that grows in England and is cultivated in Lincolnshire, which is preferred over the others. There are three types commonly used: round-leaved, triangular-leaved, and Flanders spinach, recognized by its large leaves. They all make a useful addition to soup, but the leaves can also be boiled on their own, mashed, and enjoyed as greens.
TAPIOCA SOUP.
156. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or 106.
156. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or 106.
Mode.—Put the tapioca into cold stock, and bring it gradually to a boil. Simmer gently till tender, and serve.
Mode.—Place the tapioca in cold stock and slowly bring it to a boil. Let it simmer gently until it's tender, then serve.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost. 1s. or 6d. per quart.
Time.—A little over 1 hour. Average cost: 1 shilling or 6 pence per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Suitable for 8 people.
TAPIOCA.—This excellent farinaceous food is the produce of the pith of the cassava-tree, and is made in the East Indies, and also in Brazil. It is, by washing, procured as a starch from the tree, then dried, either in the sun or on plates of hot iron, and afterwards broken into grains, in which form it is imported into this country. Its nutritive properties are large, and as a food for persons of delicate digestion, or for children, it is in great estimation. "No amylaceous substance," says Dr. Christison, "is so much relished by infants about the time of weaning; and in them it is less apt to become sour during digestion than any other farinaceous food, even arrowroot not excepted."
TAPIOCA.—This great starchy food comes from the pith of the cassava tree and is made in the East Indies and Brazil. It is obtained by washing the tree to extract the starch, then dried either in the sun or on hot iron plates, and finally broken into grains, which is how it is imported to this country. It has substantial nutritional benefits and is highly regarded as a food for people with sensitive digestion or for children. "No starchy substance," says Dr. Christison, "is more favored by infants around the time of weaning; and in them, it is less likely to sour during digestion than any other starchy food, including arrowroot."
TURNIP SOUP.
157. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of butter, 9 good-sized turnips, 4 onions, 2 quarts of stock No. 106, seasoning to taste.
157. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of butter, 9 medium-sized turnips, 4 onions, 2 quarts of stock No. 106, seasoning to taste.
Mode.—Melt the butter in the stewpan, but do not let it boil; wash, drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thin; put them in the butter, with a teacupful of stock, and stew very gently for an hour. Then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer another hour. Rub it through a tammy, put it back into the stewpan, but do not let it boil. Serve very hot.
Method.—Melt the butter in the saucepan, but don’t let it boil; wash, drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thinly; put them in the butter along with a cup of stock, and simmer very gently for an hour. Then add the rest of the stock, and simmer for another hour. Strain it through a sieve, return it to the saucepan, but do not let it boil. Serve very hot.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. Average cost, 8d. per quart.
Time: 2.5 hours. Average cost: 8d per quart.
Seasonable from October to March.
Seasonal from October to March.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—By adding a little cream, this soup will be much improved.
Note.—Adding a bit of cream will significantly enhance this soup.
[Illustration: TURNIP.]
[Illustration: TURNIP.]
THE TURNIP.—Although turnips grow wild in England, they are not the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this country. In ancient times they were grown for cattle by the Romans, and in Germany and the Low Countries they have from time immemorial been raised for the same purpose. In their cultivated state, they are generally supposed to have been introduced to England from Hanover, in the time of George I.; but this has been doubted, as George II. caused a description of the Norfolk system to be sent to his Hanoverian subjects, for their enlightenment in the art of turnip culture. As a culinary vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone, mashed, or mixed with soups und stews. Its nutritious matter, however, is small, being only 42 parts in 1,000.
THE TURNIP.—Although turnips grow wild in England, they are not the original cultivated vegetable used in this country. In ancient times, the Romans grew them for cattle, and in Germany and the Low Countries, they have been raised for the same purpose for ages. In their cultivated form, they are generally thought to have been introduced to England from Hanover during the time of George I.; however, this is debated, as George II. had a description of the Norfolk system sent to his Hanoverian subjects to educate them on turnip farming. As a culinary vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone, mashed, or mixed in soups and stews. Its nutritional content is relatively low, containing only 42 parts per 1,000.
VEGETABLE-MARROW SOUP.
158. INGREDIENTS.—4 young vegetable marrows, or more, if very small, 1/2 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
158. INGREDIENTS.—4 young zucchini, or more if they are very small, 1/2 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
Mode.—Pare and slice the marrows, and put them in the stock boiling. When done almost to a mash, press them through a sieve, and at the moment of serving, add the boiling cream and seasoning.
Mode.—Peel and slice the marrows, then add them to the boiling stock. Once they’re almost mashed, strain them through a sieve. Just before serving, stir in the boiling cream and seasoning.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 2d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable in summer.
In season for summer.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Fits 8 people.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.]
[Illustration: ZUCCHINI.]
THE VEGETABLE MARROW.—This is a variety of the gourd family, brought from Persia by an East-India ship, and only recently introduced to Britain. It is already cultivated to a considerable extent, and, by many, is highly esteemed when fried with butter. It is, however, dressed in different ways, either by stewing or boiling, and, besides, made into pies.
THE VEGETABLE MARROW.—This is a type of gourd that was brought from Persia by a ship from India and has only recently been introduced to Britain. It is already grown extensively and is highly valued by many when fried in butter. However, it can also be prepared in various ways, including stewing or boiling, and is even made into pies.
VEGETABLE SOUP.
I.
159. INGREDIENTS.—7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of parsnip, 10 oz. of potato, cut into thin slices; 1-1/4 oz. of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls of flour, a teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of water.
159. INGREDIENTS.—7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of parsnip, 10 oz. of potato, cut into thin slices; 1-1/4 oz. of butter, 5 teaspoons of flour, a teaspoon of prepared mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, just over 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Boil the vegetables in the water 2-1/2 hours; stir them often, and if the water boils away too quickly, add more, as there should be 2 quarts of soup when done. Mix up in a basin the butter and flour, mustard, salt, and pepper, with a teacupful of cold water; stir in the soup, and boil 10 minutes. Have ready the yolks of the eggs in the tureen; pour on, stir well, and serve.
Method.—Boil the vegetables in water for 2.5 hours; stir them frequently, and if the water evaporates too quickly, add more, since there should be 2 quarts of soup when done. In a bowl, mix the butter and flour, mustard, salt, and pepper, with a cup of cold water; stir in the soup and boil for 10 minutes. Have the egg yolks ready in the serving bowl; pour the soup over them, stir well, and serve.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 4p. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
II.
160. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips; 1/4 lb. of butter, a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 2 quarts of common stock or boiling water. Allow 3/4 lb. of vegetables to 2 quarts of stock, No. 105.
160. INGREDIENTS.—Equal amounts of onions, carrots, and turnips; 1/4 lb. of butter, a piece of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a bundle of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, and 2 quarts of broth or boiling water. Use 3/4 lb. of vegetables for every 2 quarts of stock, No. 105.
Mode.—Cut up the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash and drain them well, and put them in the stewpan with the butter and powdered sugar. Toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do not let them brown, or you will spoil the flavour of the soup. When done, pour the stock or boiling water on them; add the bread, celery, herbs, and seasoning; stew for 3 hours; skim well and strain it off. When ready to serve, add a little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, and flavour with a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or a little ketchup.
Method.—Chop the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash and drain them thoroughly, then put them in the saucepan with the butter and powdered sugar. Sauté everything over high heat for 10 minutes, but be careful not to let them brown, as that will ruin the flavor of the soup. Once done, pour in the stock or boiling water; add the bread, celery, herbs, and seasoning; simmer for 3 hours; skim well and strain it. When you're ready to serve, add some sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, and season with a spoonful of Harvey's sauce or a bit of ketchup.
Time.—3-1/2 hours. Average cost,6d. per quart.
Time: 3.5 hours. Average cost: 6d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year. Sufficient for 8 persons.
All-season all year. Fits 8 people.
III.
(Good and Cheap, made without Meat.)
(Good and Affordable, made without Meat.)
161. INGREDIENTS.—6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if very large; 2 carrots, 2 onions; if obtainable, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice of bread, 1 small saltspoonful of salt, 1/4 saltspoonful of ground black pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 6 quarts of water.
161. INGREDIENTS.—6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if they're very large; 2 carrots, 2 onions; if available, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice of bread, 1 small saltspoon of salt, 1/4 saltspoon of ground black pepper, 2 teaspoons of Harvey's sauce, 6 quarts of water.
Mode.—Peel the vegetables, and cut them up into small pieces; toast the bread rather brown, and put all into a stewpan with the water and seasoning. Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is reduced to a pulp, and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea-soup, which it should resemble in consistence; but it should be a dark brown colour. Warm it up again when required; put in the Harvey's sauce, and, if necessary, add to the flavouring.
Mode.—Peel the vegetables and chop them into small pieces; toast the bread until it’s fairly brown, and put everything into a saucepan with water and seasoning. Let it simmer gently for 3 hours or until it turns into a pulp, then strain it through a sieve just like pea soup, which it should be similar to in texture, but it should have a dark brown color. Heat it up again when you need it; add the Harvey’s sauce, and, if needed, adjust the seasoning.
Time.—3 hours, or rather more. Average cost,1d. per quart.
Time.—3 hours, or maybe a little more. Average cost, 1 penny per quart.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 16 persons.
Available anytime. Suitable for 16 people.
Note.—This recipe was forwarded to the Editress by a lady in the county of Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended.
Note.—This recipe was sent to the editor by a woman from Durham County, who highly recommended it.
VERMICELLI SOUP.
I.
162. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of bacon, stuck with cloves; 1/2 oz. of butter, worked up in flour; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling; 2 oz. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
162. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lbs. of bacon, studded with cloves; 1/2 oz. of butter, blended with flour; 1 small chicken, prepared for boiling; 2 oz. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
Mode.—Put the stock, bacon, butter, and fowl into the stewpan, and stew for 3/4 of an hour. Take the vermicelli, add it to a little of the stock, and set it on the fire, till it is quite tender. When the soup is ready, take out the fowl and bacon, and put the bacon on a dish. Skim the soup as clean as possible; pour it, with the vermicelli, over the fowl. Cut some bread thin, put in the soup, and serve.
Mode.—Place the meat, bacon, butter, and chicken into the pot, and simmer for 45 minutes. Take the vermicelli, mix it with a bit of the broth, and heat it until it's fully cooked. Once the soup is done, remove the chicken and bacon, and set the bacon on a plate. Skim the soup as thoroughly as you can; pour it, along with the vermicelli, over the chicken. Slice some bread thinly, add it to the soup, and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, exclusive of the fowl and bacon, 10d. per quart.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, not including the chicken and bacon, 10d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Fits 4 people.
[Illustration: VERMICELLI.]
[Illustration: VERMICELLI.]
VERMICELLI.—This is a preparation of Italian origin, and is made in the same way as macaroni, only the yolks of eggs, sugar, saffron, and cheese, are added to the paste.
VERMICELLI.—This is a dish that originated in Italy, and it is made similarly to macaroni, with the addition of egg yolks, sugar, saffron, and cheese to the dough.
II.
163. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy stock, No. 169.
163. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy stock, No. 169.
Mode.—Put the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; simmer very gently for 1/2 an hour, and stir frequently.
Mode.—Add the vermicelli to the boiling soup; let it simmer very gently for 30 minutes, stirring often.
Time—1/2 an hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time: 30 minutes. Average cost: 1 shilling and 3 pence per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
WHITE SOUP.
164. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of cold veal or poultry, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1 blade of mace, pounded, 3/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
164. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of cold veal or chicken, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon zest, 1 blade of mace, ground, 3/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
Mode.—Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste, with a spoonful of water, and add to them the meat, which should be previously pounded with the bread. Beat all together, and add the lemon-peel, very finely chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock on the whole, and simmer for an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put in the soup, bring it to a boil, and serve immediately.
Method.—Crush the almonds in a mortar into a paste with a spoonful of water, then mix in the meat, which should be pounded with the bread beforehand. Combine everything together, and add the lemon peel, finely chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock over the mixture and let it simmer for an hour. Blend the eggs into the cream, stir it into the soup, bring it to a boil, and serve right away.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per quart.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, £0.075 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
All year round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
Note.—A more economical white soup may be made by using common veal stock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Vermicelli should be served with it.
Note.—You can make a more budget-friendly white soup by using regular veal stock and thickening it with rice, flour, and milk. Serve it with vermicelli.
Average cost, 5d. per quart.
Average cost, 5d. per quart.
USEFUL SOUP FOR BENEVOLENT PURPOSES.
165. INGREDIENTS.—An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef, which may be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few bones, any pot-liquor the larder may furnish, 1/4 peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of herbs, 1/2 lb. of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very well); 1/2 lb. of carrots, 1/2 lb. of turnips, 1/2 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 a pint of beer, 4 lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley; 1/2 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water.
165. INGREDIENTS.—One ox cheek, some scraps of beef that can be bought for a low price (about 4 lbs.), a few bones, any leftover pot liquor from the pantry, 1/4 peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of herbs, 1/2 lb. of celery (the outer pieces or green tops work just fine); 1/2 lb. of carrots, 1/2 lb. of turnips, 1/2 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 a pint of beer, 4 lbs. of regular rice or pearl barley; 1/2 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of black pepper, a few breadcrumbs, 10 gallons of water.
Mode.—Cut up the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them in a copper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for 1/2 an hour. Cut up the vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil for 4 hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and raspings, and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup, which simmer gently. If the liquor reduces too much, fill up with water.
Mode.—Chop the meat into small pieces, break the bones, and place them in a pot with 10 gallons of water. Let it simmer for half an hour. Chop the vegetables, add them along with the sugar and beer, and boil for 4 hours. Two hours before you want the soup, add the rice and breadcrumbs, stirring continuously until everything is well combined in the soup, which should be simmering gently. If the liquid reduces too much, add more water.
Time.—6-1/2 hours. Average cost, 1-1/2d. per quart.
Time.—6.5 hours. Average cost, 1.5d. per quart.
Note.—The above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by the Editress, who made, each week, in her copper, 8 or 9 gallons of this soup, for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the village near which she lives. The cost, as will be seen, was not great; but she has reason to believe that the soup was very much liked, and gave to the members of those families, a dish of warm, comforting food, in place of the cold meat and piece of bread which form, with too many cottagers, their usual meal, when, with a little more knowledge of the "cooking." art, they might have, for less expense, a warm dish, every day.
Note.—The recipe above was used in the winter of 1858 by the Editress, who made 8 or 9 gallons of this soup in her copper pot each week to share with about a dozen families in the nearby village. The cost, as you will see, was not high; however, she has reason to believe that the soup was well-received and provided those families with a warm, comforting meal instead of the cold meat and bread that often make up the typical meal for many cottagers. With a bit more knowledge of the art of cooking, they could have a warm dish every day for less money.
MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.
BRILLA SOUP.
166. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts water.
166. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of beef shank, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts of water.
Mode.—Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the bone, in nice square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, let it cool, and take off the fat; then put the pieces of meat in the cold liquor; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery; chop the onions, add them with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the meat is tender. If not brown enough, colour it with browning.
Mode.—Take the beef, cut all the meat off the bone into nice square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquid, let it cool, and remove the fat; then place the pieces of meat in the cold liquid; chop the carrots, turnips, and celery; dice the onions, add them along with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer until the meat is tender. If it’s not brown enough, you can color it with browning.
Time.—6 hours. Average cost, 5d. per quart.
Time.—6 hours. Average cost, 5d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
All year round.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Sufficient for 10 people.
THYME.—This sweet herb was known to the Romans, who made use of it in culinary preparations, as well as in aromatic liqueurs. There are two species of it growing wild in Britain, but the garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe, and is more delicate in its perfume than the others. Its young leaves give an agreeable flavour to soups and sauces; they are also used in stuffings.
THYME.—This fragrant herb was known to the Romans, who used it in cooking and in aromatic liqueurs. There are two species that grow wild in Britain, but garden thyme is native to southern Europe and has a more delicate scent than the others. Its young leaves add a pleasant flavor to soups and sauces; they are also used in stuffings.
CALF'S-HEAD SOUP.
167. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 a calf's head, 1 onion stuck with cloves, a very small bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper to taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts of white stock, No. 107, or pot-liquor, or water.
167. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 a calf's head, 1 onion studded with cloves, a tiny bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper to taste, 6 oz. of rice flour, 3 tablespoons of ketchup, 3 quarts of white stock, No. 107, or pot liquor, or water.
Mode.—Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it thoroughly; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, or pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When well skimmed and boiled for 1-1/2 hour, take out the head, and skim and strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the soup with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into pieces about two inches long, and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are quite tender. Season with white pepper and mace finely pounded, and serve very hot. When the calf's head is taken out of the soup, cover it up, or it will discolour.
Mode.—Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it thoroughly; place it in a pot, and cover it with stock, broth, or water, adding onion and sweet herbs. After skimming and boiling for 1-1/2 hours, remove the head, and skim and strain the broth. Mix the rice flour with the ketchup, thicken the broth with it, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut the head into pieces about two inches long, and simmer them in the broth until the meat and fat are tender. Season with finely ground white pepper and mace, and serve very hot. When you take the calf's head out of the broth, cover it, or it will discolor.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. Average cost,1s. 9d. per quart, with stock No. 107.
Time.—2.5 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d. per quart, with stock No. 107.
Seasonable from May to October.
Available from May to October.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
Note.—Force-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured with a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables, and it will make a very good common stock.
Note.—You can add meatballs, and the soup can be flavored with a bit of lemon juice or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones from the head can be simmered again with some fresh vegetables, and it will create a really good basic stock.
GIBLET SOUP.
168. INGREDIENTS.—3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2 carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 3 quarts of water.
168. INGREDIENTS.—3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of beef shin, a few bones, 1 oxtail, 2 mutton shanks, 2 large onions, 2 carrots, 1 large bunch of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, 1 oz. of butter mixed with a teaspoon of flour, 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put them in a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, onions, herbs, pepper, and salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer till the giblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the giblets are done, take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup through a sieve, add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, boil it up a few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. It can be flavoured with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup, instead of cream. Add salt to taste.
Method.—Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards into 8 pieces, and place them in a saucepan with the beef, bones, oxtail, mutton shanks, onions, herbs, pepper, and salt; add 3 quarts of water and simmer until the giblets are tender, making sure to skim regularly. Once the giblets are cooked, remove them, place them in your serving bowl, strain the soup through a sieve, and add the cream and butter mixed with a dessert spoonful of flour. Boil for a few minutes, then pour it over the giblets. You can flavor it with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup instead of cream. Add salt to taste.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost,9d. per quart.
Duration: 3 hours. Average cost: 9d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
Available all year round.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
GRAVY SOUP.
169. INGREDIENTS.—6 lbs. of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weighing 5 lbs., a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean, ham; 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head of celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a hunch of savoury herb with endive, seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of boiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington sauce (see SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a little soy.
169. INGREDIENTS.—6 lbs. of beef shin, a 5 lbs. knuckle of veal, a few pieces or scraps, 2 slices of well-flavored lean ham; 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, almost a whole head of celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a bunch of savory herbs with endive, salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of boiling soft water. It can be flavored with ketchup, Leamington sauce (see SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a bit of soy.
Mode.—Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not let them burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scum rises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients, and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring it any more from the bottom; take it off, and let it settle; skim off all the fat you can, and pass it through a tammy. When perfectly cold, you can remove all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched, which serves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c.
Mode.—Lightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but don’t let them burn. Once that's done, pour in the water, and as the scum rises, remove it. When no more scum appears, add all the other ingredients and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring it from the bottom. Remove it, and let it settle; skim off as much fat as you can, and strain it through a tammy. When it’s completely cold, you can take off all the fat, leaving the sediment intact, which works great for thick gravies, hashes, etc.
Time.—7 hours. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time.—7 hours. Average cost, £0.01 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
All year round.
Sufficient for 14 persons.
Enough for 14 people.
ENDIVE.—This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of vegetables, and is supposed to have originally come from China and Japan. It was known to the ancients; but was not introduced to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London,—in the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance;—it is greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews.
ENDIVE.—This plant is part of the salad family of vegetables and is believed to have originally come from China and Japan. It was known to ancient cultures but wasn’t introduced to England until around the mid-16th century. The French eat it in large amounts, and in London—where it’s grown in plenty—it’s commonly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews.
HARE SOUP.
I.
170. INGREDIENTS.—A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, a slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a little browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, the crumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water.
170. INGREDIENTS.—A freshly killed hare, 1 lb. of lean gravy beef, a slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a bunch of savory herbs, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a bit of browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, the crusts of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much blood as possible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made the day before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the best parts of the hare in the soup, and serve.
Mode.—Skin and gut the hare, keeping the liver and as much blood as you can. Cut it into pieces, and put it in a saucepan with all the ingredients, then simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made the day before it’s needed. Strain through a sieve, add the best parts of the hare to the soup, and serve.
OR,
II.
Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in the soup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and add it, with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub all through a sieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to table immediately.
Proceed as described above; however, instead of adding the hare's joints to the soup, remove the meat from the bones, crush it in a mortar, and mix it in with the crumbs of two French rolls. Pass everything through a sieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Serve it right away.
Time.-8 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d. per quart.
Time.-8 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d. per quart.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Good for 10 people.
[Illustration: HARE.]
[Illustration: HARE.]
THE COMMON HARE.—This little animal is found throughout Europe, and, indeed, in most of the northern parts of the world; and as it is destitute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear. As if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has furnished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may catch the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes, which enable it to see, at one and the same time, both before and behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps, in its form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the ground, its feet, both below and above, are protected with a thick covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by the Romans, was forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons. It is now, though very dark and dry, and devoid of fat, much esteemed by Europeans, on account of the peculiarity of its flavour. In purchasing this animal, it ought to be remembered that both hares and rabbits, when old, have their claws rugged and blunt, their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough. The ears of a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip; whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp.
THE COMMON HARE.—This small animal is found all over Europe and in most of the northern parts of the world. Since it lacks natural defense mechanisms, it has been given an extraordinary sense of fear. To heighten this awareness, it has long, tubular ears that can hear distant sounds and large, prominent eyes that allow it to see both in front and behind at the same time. The hare feeds in the evenings and sleeps during the day, often lying on the ground, with its feet covered in thick hair for protection. Although its flesh was valued by the Romans, it was forbidden by the Druids and early Britons. Nowadays, even though it is very dark, dry, and fat-free, it is highly regarded by Europeans for its unique flavor. When buying this animal, it's important to remember that older hares and rabbits have rugged, blunt claws, thick haunches, and tough, dry ears. In comparison, the ears of a young hare are easily torn, and it has a narrow cleft in its lip, with smooth and sharp claws.
HESSIAN SOUP.
171. INGREDIENTS.—Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6 turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4 cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
171. INGREDIENTS.—Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6 turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4 cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
Mode.—Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5 hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into a pan and let it cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and add the vegetables cut up small, and the peas which have been previously soaked; simmer them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulp through a sieve. Add the seasoning, with pieces of the meat cut up; give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5 hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water until tender, then place it in a pan and let it cool; skim off all the fat. Remove the head, then add the vegetables, chopped small, and the peas that have been soaked beforehand; simmer them without the meat until they are soft enough to pass through a sieve. Add the seasoning along with pieces of the meat, bring to a boil once, and serve.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 6p. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
In season in winter.
Sufficient for 16 persons.
Seats 16 people.
Note.—An excellent hash or ragoût can be made by cutting up the nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a little of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup.
Note.—You can make a great hash or ragoût by chopping up the best parts of the head, thickening and seasoning a bit more of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoons of ketchup.
MOCK TURTLE.
I.
172. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lean ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (when obtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 bottle of Madeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste, the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, 3 quarts of best stock, No. 104.
172. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lean ham, 2 tablespoons of minced parsley, a bit of minced lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (if available), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1/4 bottle of Madeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt, and mace to taste, the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert spoon of powdered sugar, 3 quarts of the best stock, No. 104.
Mode.—Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the head up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat from the bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water. Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover with stock; let it boil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite tender, and set it on one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan, and add the ham, cut small, with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and nearly a pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and then dredge in as much flour as will dry up the butter. Fill up with the remainder of the stock, add the wine, let it stew gently for 10 minutes, rub it through a tammy, and put it to the calf's head; season with cayenne, and, if required, a little salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon; and when liked, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded mace, and the sugar. Put in the force-meat balls, simmer 5 minutes, and serve very hot.
Method.—Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, wrap the head in a cloth, and let it boil for an hour. Then take the meat off the bones, cut it into small square pieces, and put them into cold water. Now take the meat, place it in a saucepan, and cover it with stock; let it simmer gently for an hour, or a bit longer if it's not completely tender, and set it aside. Melt the butter in another saucepan, and add the ham, chopped small, along with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and about a pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, then sprinkle in enough flour to soak up the butter. Add the remaining stock, pour in the wine, let it cook gently for 10 minutes, strain it through a fine sieve, and mix it with the calf's head; season with cayenne, and if needed, a bit of salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon; and if desired, a 1/4 teaspoon of ground mace, and sugar. Add the force-meat balls, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve very hot.
Time.—4-1/2 hours. Average cost, 3s. 6d. per quart, or 2s. 6d. without wine or force-meat balls.
Time.—4.5 hours. Average cost, £0.17 per quart, or £0.12 without wine or meatballs.
Seasonable in winter.
In season in winter.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
Note.—The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it was first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured with vegetables, etc.
Note.—The bones of the head should be thoroughly simmered in the liquid they were initially boiled in, which will create a nice white stock, seasoned with vegetables, etc.
II.
(More Economical.)
(More Affordable.)
173. INGREDIENTS.—A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels, 2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 3 blades of mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 force-meat balls, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water.
173. INGREDIENTS.—A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels, 2 large onions studded with cloves, 1 bunch of fresh herbs, 3 blades of mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 meatballs, a little lemon juice, 4 quarts of water.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open it till cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and strain carefully; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half squares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into the soup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy, or Harvey's sauce.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients, except the meatballs and lemon juice, in a clay pot and simmer for 6 hours. Don’t open it until it cools down. When you’re ready to use it, skim off all the fat and strain it carefully; heat it up, chop the meat into inch-and-a-half pieces, add it along with the meatballs and lemon juice to the soup, and serve. You can enhance the flavor with a tablespoon of anchovy or Harvey's sauce.
Time.—6 hours. Average cost,1s. 4d. per quart.
Time: 6 hours. Average cost: £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
THE CALF—The flesh of this animal is called veal, and when young, that is, under two months old, yields a large quantity of soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed for soups and broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for fattening calves better than any others in England, where they are plentifully supplied with milk, a thing impossible to be done in the immediate neighbourhood of London.
THE CALF—The meat from this animal is known as veal, and when it's young, specifically under two months old, it provides a significant amount of soluble extract, making it popular for soups and broths. Farmers in Essex have gained fame for fattening calves better than anyone else in England, as they have a rich supply of milk, which is something that can't be achieved in the immediate vicinity of London.
MARJORAM.—There are several species of this plant; but that which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal, and is called sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried, they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for soups, stuffings, &c.
MARJORAM.—There are several types of this plant; however, the one that's most commonly used in cooking is native to Portugal and is known as sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried, they have a pleasant aromatic flavor, which is why they are used in soups, stuffings, etc.
BASIL.—This is a native of the East Indies, and is highly aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves. It is not much employed in English cookery, but is a favourite with French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads.
BASIL.—This plant comes from the East Indies and has a strong, pleasant aroma similar to cloves. It's not commonly used in English cooking, but French chefs love it and use its leaves in soups and salads.
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.
174. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 clove of garlic, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, or mango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2 quarts of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock.
174. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoons of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 clove of garlic, 1 oz. of ground almonds, a bit of lemon pickle or mango juice, to taste; 1 chicken or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2 quarts of medium stock, or, for something really good, use the best stock.
Mode.-=Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour; line the stewpan with the bacon; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, and slightly brown them; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock, and simmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when the meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter; add it to the soup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a little of the stock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, and serve boiled rice with it.
Method.-=Slice and fry the onions until they’re a nice color; line the stewpan with the bacon; cut the rabbit or chicken into small pieces and lightly brown them; add the fried onions, garlic, and stock, and simmer gently until the meat is tender; carefully skim any fat off the top, and when the meat is cooked, mix the curry powder into a smooth paste; add this to the soup along with the almonds, which should be first ground with a little of the stock. Season to taste and add lemon pickle or mango juice, and serve with boiled rice.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per quart, with stock No. 105.
Time: 2 hours. Average cost: 1.5 GBP per quart, using stock No. 105.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—This soup can also be made with breast of veal, or calf's head. Vegetable Mullagatawny is made with veal stock, by boiling and pulping chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoning with curry powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder, and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup good.
Note.—This soup can also be made with veal breast or calf's head. Vegetable Mulligatawny is made with veal stock by boiling and pureeing chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoning with curry powder and cayenne. Good pieces of meat, quality curry powder, and strong stock are essential to make this soup tasty.
[Illustration: CORIANDER.]
[Illustration: CILANTRO.]
CORIANDER.—This plant, which largely enters into the composition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from the East; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially in Essex, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and druggists. In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of its tender leaves, which are highly aromatic, and are employed in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities for the purposes of distillation.
CORIANDER.—This plant, which is a key ingredient in curry powder along with turmeric, originally comes from the East; however, it has been grown in England for a long time, especially in Essex, where it's cultivated for use by confectioners and pharmacists. In home gardens, it's grown for its tender, aromatic leaves, which are used in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large amounts for distillation purposes.
A GOOD MUTTON SOUP.
175. INGREDIENTS.—A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; salt and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water.
175. INGREDIENTS.—A neck of mutton weighing about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of fresh herbs, including parsley; salt and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if desired; 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day put the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When it commences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat, dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain the soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a little sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.
Method.—Place the ingredients in a covered pot over the heat, and let them cook all day, stirring occasionally. The next day, transfer everything to a stewpot and put it over medium heat. When it starts to boil, take it off the heat and let it simmer until the meat is tender. When it's ready, remove the meat, serve it with carrots and turnips, and bring it to the table; strain the broth, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season it, and thicken it with a tablespoon or a bit more of arrowroot; add a splash of sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.
Time.—15 hours. Average cost, including the meat, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time.—15 hours. Average cost, including the meat, 1.25 per quart.
Seasonable at any time.
In style year-round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
THE SHEEP.—This animal formed the principal riches of the patriarchs, in the days of old, and, no doubt, multiplied, until its species were spread over the greater part of Western Asia; but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It is now found in almost every part of the globe, although, as a domestic animal, it depends almost entirely upon man for its support. Its value, however, amply repays him for whatever care and kindness he may bestow upon it; for, like the ox, there is scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful purpose. The fleece, which serves it for a covering, is appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself, whilst its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life. Its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments, and its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in the trade of the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow, yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten. Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep, when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool.
THE SHEEP.—This animal was the main source of wealth for the patriarchs back in the day, and undoubtedly, it multiplied until its kind spread across much of Western Asia. However, it’s unknown when it made its way to Britain. Nowadays, it can be found in almost every part of the world, but as a domestic animal, it relies heavily on humans for its care. Its value definitely makes up for the effort and kindness humans give it; like the ox, nearly every part of it can be used for something practical. The fleece that serves as its covering is taken by humans for their own use, while its skin is utilized for various purposes in daily life. Its entrails are turned into strings for musical instruments, and its bones are burned down and used as tests in refining trades. Its milk, being thicker than cow's milk, produces more butter and cheese, and its meat is among the most nutritious and healthy options available. Thomson has beautifully depicted the look of the sheep when it's about to be sheared for its wool.
"Behold, where bound, and of its robe bereft
By needy man, that all-depending lord,
How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies!
What softness in his melancholy face,
What dumb complaining innocence appears!"
"Look, here it is, where it’s tied up, and stripped of its robe
By a needy man, that all-dependent lord,
How gentle, how patient, this mild creature lies!
What softness in its sad face,
What silent, pleading innocence shows!"
OX-CHEEK SOUP.
176. INGREDIENTS.—An ox-cheek, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3 blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 head of celery, browning, the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
176. INGREDIENTS.—1 ox cheek, 2 oz. butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3 blades of mace, 4 cloves, a bundle of flavorful herbs, 1 bay leaf, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, 1 head of celery, browning, the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
Mode.—Lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, with the butter; break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the ham. Cut the vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients, and set the whole over a slow fire for 1/4 of an hour. Now put in the water, and simmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; take out the fleshy part of the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; thicken with flour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till the celery is tender. If not a good colour, use a little browning. Cut the meat into small square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve with the crust of a French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry much improves this soup.
Method.—Place the ham in the bottom of the stewpot, along with the butter; break the cheek bones, wash them thoroughly, and add them on top of the ham. Chop the vegetables into small pieces, add them to the other ingredients, and let everything cook on low heat for 15 minutes. Then add the water and let it simmer gently until it's reduced to 4 quarts; remove the meat from the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpot; thicken it with flour, add a head of sliced celery, and let it simmer until the celery is soft. If the color isn’t great, add a little browning. Cut the meat into small square pieces, pour the soup over it, and serve with the crust of a French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry really enhances this soup.
Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average cost, 8d. per quart.
Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average cost, 8d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Available in winter.
Sufficient for 12 persons.
Enough for 12 people.
THE OX.—Of the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human food. In the early ages, the ox was used as a religious sacrifice, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this day, the Hindoos venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and whose fat, supposed to have been employed to grease the cartridges of the Indian army, was one of the proximate causes of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are made combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They are also made into transparent plates for lanterns; an invention ascribed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is made from their gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones often form a substitute for ivory; their skins, when calves, are manufactured into vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian blue; their sinews furnish fine and strong threads, used by saddlers; their hair enters into various manufactures; their tallow is made into candles; their flesh is eaten, and the utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known.
THE OX.—Among four-legged animals, the meat from those that eat plants is the most wholesome and nutritious for human consumption. In ancient times, the ox was used as a religious sacrifice and was considered so sacred by the Egyptians that it was honored as a representation of Taurus, one of the twelve zodiac signs. Even today, the Hindus hold the cow in high regard, forbidding its meat and considering its fat—which was believed to have been used to grease the cartridges of the Indian army—as one of the main triggers for the Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals more beneficial to humans than the ox and its relatives. Almost every part of them is utilized in some way for civilized life. Their horns are crafted into combs, knife handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking cups. They can also be made into transparent plates for lanterns; a creation attributed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is produced from their gristles, cartilages, and parts of their hides. Their bones often serve as a substitute for ivory, while the skins of calves are processed into vellum. Their blood is used as the base for Prussian blue, and their sinews provide fine, strong threads for saddlers. Their hair is incorporated into various products, their tallow is made into candles, their flesh is consumed, and the benefits of cow's milk and cream are well recognized.
OX-TAIL SOUP.
177. INGREDIENTS.—2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, 3 quarts of water.
177. INGREDIENTS.—2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 1 bay leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, 1 tablespoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and put them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices, and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put in 1/2 pint of water, and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the stewpan with the water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and simmer very gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them out, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavour with the ketchup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.
Mode.—Chop the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and place them in a saucepan with the butter. Slice the vegetables and add them along with the peppercorns and herbs. Pour in 1/2 pint of water and stir it over high heat until the juices are released. Fill the saucepan with water, and when it starts to boil, add the salt. Skim the surface well, and let it simmer gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Remove the tails, skim and strain the soup, thicken it with flour, and season with ketchup and port wine. Return the tails to the soup, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.
Time.—4-1/2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per quart.
Time.—4.5 hours. Average cost, £0.06 per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
PARTRIDGE SOUP.
178. INGREDIENTS.—2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1 head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fanciful shapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common, No. 106.
178. INGREDIENTS.—2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 chopped onions, 1 head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fun shapes, 1 small piece of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or regular, No. 106.
Mode.—Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in the butter and ham until quite tender; then take out the legs, wings, and breast, and set them by. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, and add the onions and celery; any remains of cold game can be put in, and 3 pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the fat off as clean as possible; put in the pieces that were taken out, give it one boil, and skim again to have it quite clear, and add the sugar and seasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; when quite tender, put them to the partridges, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in butter and ham until they are tender. Then remove the legs, wings, and breast, and set them aside. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, and add the onions and celery. You can also include any leftover cold game and 3 pints of stock. Let it simmer slowly for 1 hour, then strain it and skim off as much fat as you can. Put the previously removed pieces back in, bring it to a boil again, skim once more to ensure it's clear, and add sugar and seasoning. Now, simmer the chopped carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; once they are tender, add them to the partridges and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 2s. or 1s. 6d. per quart.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 2 shillings or 1 shilling 6 pence per quart.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—The meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a French roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve with stewed celery cut in slices, and put in the tureen.
Note.—The meat of the partridges can be mashed with the crumb of a French roll and mixed with the soup through a strainer. Serve with stewed celery sliced and placed in the tureen.
THE PARTRIDGE.—This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It became known to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to furnish with food. Formerly, the Red was scarce in Italy, but its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians trained this bird for fighting, and Severus used to lighten the cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats. The Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other portions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however, ventured a little further, and ate the breast, whilst we consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of all the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the geniality of the climate, it abounds most in the Ukraine.
THE PARTRIDGE.—This is a timid bird, easily captured. It became known to the Greeks and Romans, who included it in their meals. In the past, the Red partridge was rare in Italy, but it was often replaced by the White, which was frequently brought in at great cost from the Alps. The Athenians trained this bird for fights, and Severus used to ease the burdens of kingship by watching its spirited battles. The Greeks valued its leg the most and considered the other parts unfashionable to eat. The Romans, however, went a bit further and ate the breast, while we see the bird as entirely suitable for eating. It lives in all temperate regions of Europe, but thanks to the warm climate, it's most abundant in the Ukraine.
PHEASANT SOUP.
179. INGREDIENTS.—2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2 large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105.
179. INGREDIENTS.—2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2 large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne to taste, a bit of ground mace, if desired; 3 quarts of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter and ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a stewpan, with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. Strain the soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously soaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Chop up the pheasants, coat them in flour, and sauté them in butter and ham until they're a nice brown color, but don’t let them burn. Place them in a pot with the onions, celery, and seasonings, and let it simmer for 2 hours. Strain the soup; mash the breasts with the soaked bread crumbs and the egg yolks; add this mixture to the soup, bring it to a boil once, and serve.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 10d. per quart, or, if made with fragments of gold game, 1s.
Time.—2.5 hours. Average cost, £2.10 per quart, or, if made with gold game scraps, £1.
Seasonable from October to February.
Available from October to February.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
Note.—Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to great advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice.
Note.—Leftover bits and pieces of cold game can be used effectively in this soup, so one pheasant will be enough.
PORTABLE SOUP.
180. INGREDIENTS.—2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover all the ingredients.
180. INGREDIENTS.—2 knuckles of veal, 3 beef shins, 1 large bundle of herbs, 2 bay leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoon of salt, enough water to cover all the ingredients.
Mode.—Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in a stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be not done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take off all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over a sharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast and uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, and set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place the dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is thick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by pouring a small quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out on a flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in tin canisters.
Mode.—Remove the marrow from the bones; place all the ingredients in a stockpot and simmer slowly for 12 hours or longer, until the meat is really tender. Strain it and let it cool in a very cool spot; remove all the fat, then reduce the liquid in a shallow pan over a high heat, making sure it doesn’t burn; boil it vigorously and uncovered for 8 hours, stirring frequently. Pour it into a deep dish and let it sit for a day. Prepare a stewpan with boiling water, place the dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is thick and sticky, it’s ready. Shape it into small cakes by pouring a little into the bottoms of cups or bowls; once cooled, flip them out onto a flannel to dry. Store them in tin canisters away from the air.
Average cost of this quantity, 16s.
Average cost for this amount, 80p.
Note.—Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a small piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes, may be added.
Note.—You can make soup in 5 minutes with this by dissolving a small piece, roughly the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water and simmering for 2 minutes. You can also add vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastas.
THE LAUREL or BAY.—The leaves of this tree frequently enter into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that there are two kinds of bay-trees,—the Classic laurel, whose leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They have a kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings, custards &c.; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be used at a time.
THE LAUREL or BAY.—The leaves of this tree are often used in cooking, but they should be used with great care, and only if the cook fully understands their effects. It's important to know that there are two types of bay trees: the Classic laurel, whose leaves are relatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, whose leaves are used in cooking. They have a nutty flavor and are included in dishes like blanc-mange, puddings, and custards; however, when exposed to water, they produce prussic acid, so only a small number of leaves should be used at a time.
RABBIT SOUP.
181. INGREDIENTS.—2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts of water.
181. INGREDIENTS.—2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a bundle of savory herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a little ground mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, the crumbs of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and keep the nice pieces for a dish or entrée. Put them into warm water, and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with a faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock or water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water, and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones, covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, add the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let it cool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, and the crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, and gradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), and stir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This soup must be very white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour, vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5 minutes before serving.
Method.—Make the soup using the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and save the nice pieces for a dish or entrée. Place them in warm water and draw out the blood; once clean, put them in a saucepan with a bundle of herbs and about a teacupful or a little more of veal stock or water. Let it simmer slowly until cooked through, then add 3 quarts of water and boil for an hour. Remove the rabbit, pick the meat off the bones, and cover it to keep it white; put the bones back into the liquid, add the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours. Skim and strain, then let it cool. Next, pound the meat in a mortar with the egg yolks and the crumb of a roll previously soaked; pass it through a sieve, and gradually add it to the strained liquid, simmering for 15 minutes. Mix arrowroot or rice flour with the cream (about 2 dessert spoonfuls) and stir it into the soup; bring it to a boil and serve. This soup should be very white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice flour, you can boil vermicelli or pearl barley in a bit of stock and add it 5 minutes before serving.
Time.—Nearly 4 hours. Average cost, 1s. per quart.
Time.—Almost 4 hours. Average cost, 1 shilling per quart.
Seasonable from September to March.
In season from September to March.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
REGENCY SOUP.
182. Ingredients.—Any bones and remains of any cold game, such as of pheasants, partridges, &c.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery, 1 turnip, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, 1/4 pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common stock, No. 106.
182. Ingredients.—Any bones and scraps from cold game, like pheasants, partridges, etc.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery, 1 turnip, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/4 pint of cream, salt to taste, and 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or common stock No. 106.
Mode.—Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with the vegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours; skim off all the fat, and strain it. Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3 waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the soup, and when the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other half with the yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding, rub it through a clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give one boil, and serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out first.
Mode.—Put the bones or remains of game into the stewpan along with the sliced vegetables; add the stock and simmer for 2 hours. Skim off any fat, then strain it. Rinse the barley and boil it in 2 or 3 changes of water before adding it to the soup; continue simmering in the soup, and when the barley is cooked, remove half of it and mash the other half with the egg yolks. Once you've finished mashing, strain it through a clean sieve, add the cream, and salt if needed; bring it to a boil, and serve it very hot, adding back the barley that was set aside earlier.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. Average cost, 1s. per quart, if made with medium stock, or 6d. per quart, with common stock.
Time.—2.5 hours. Average cost, 1 shilling per quart if made with medium stock, or 6 pence per quart with common stock.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Suitable for 8 people.
SOUP A LA REINE.
I.
183. INGREDIENTS.—1 large fowl, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1 1/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107.
183. INGREDIENTS.—1 large chicken, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1 1/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small piece of sugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107.
Mode.—Boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which will be in about an hour, or rather more; take out the fowl, pull the meat from the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and pound very fine. When beaten enough, put the meat back in the stock, with the crumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; rub it through a tammy, add the sugar, 1/2 pint of cream that has boiled, and, if you prefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces, and pour the soup over it, when you serve.
Method.—Gently boil the chicken in the stock until it's completely tender, which should take about an hour, maybe a little longer; remove the chicken, pull the meat off the bones, and place it in a bowl with the almonds, then crush it really well. Once it’s finely ground, return the meat to the stock along with the breadcrumbs from the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; strain it through a fine sieve, add the sugar, half a pint of cream that has been boiled, and if you like, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces and pour the soup over them when serving.
Time.—2 hours, or rather more. Average cost, 2s. 7d. per quart.
Time: About 2 hours or a little more. Average cost: £0.13 per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
In season all year round.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Sufficient for 8 people.
Note.—All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another of boiling water. (See BAIN MARIE, No. 87.)
Note.—All white soups should be heated in a container placed in another one filled with boiling water. (See BAIN MARIE, No. 87.)
II. (Economical.)
II. (Affordable.)
184. INGREDIENTS.—Any remains of roast chickens, 1/2 teacupful of rice, salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.
184. INGREDIENTS.—Any leftover roast chicken, 1/2 cup of rice, salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.
Mode.—Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which has been slightly cooked, but not much. When it is all well pounded, dilute with the stock, and pass through a sieve. This soup should neither be too clear nor too thick.
Mode.—Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which has been slightly cooked, but not too much. When everything is well pounded, mix it with the stock and strain it through a sieve. This soup should be neither too clear nor too thick.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year.
All-year-round.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Fits 4 people.
Note.—If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, with an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt, and stew for 3 hours.
Note.—If you don't have stock ready, place the chicken bones in water along with an onion, a carrot, a few herbs, a piece of mace, pepper, and salt, and simmer for 3 hours.
STEW SOUP OF SALT MEAT.
185. INGREDIENTS.—Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.; 4 carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of oatmeal or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water.
185. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of salt beef or pork, 4 carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of oatmeal or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, and 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for 23/4 hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season, and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve.
Method.—Chop the meat into small pieces, add the water, and let it simmer for 2 hours and 45 minutes. Then add the vegetables, sliced thinly; season, and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 3d. per quart without the meat.
Time—2 hours. Average cost, 3 pence per quart without the meat.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Note.—If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the vegetables.
Note.—If you use rice instead of oatmeal, add it in with the vegetables.
STEW SOUP.
I.
186. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb. of rice, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2 quarts of water.
186. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb. of rice, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients, and boil gently for 21/2 hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great improvement.
Method.—Chop the beef into small pieces, mix in the other ingredients, and simmer gently for 2.5 hours. Adding oatmeal or potatoes would be a great enhancement.
Time.-21/2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.
Time.-2.5 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
In season in winter.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
II.
187. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of split peas, 4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of rice, 2 quarts of water.
187. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of split peas; 4 turnips; 8 potatoes; 2 onions; 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of rice; 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and add them, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 hours; thicken with the oatmeal, boil for another 1/4 hour, stirring all the time, and season with pepper and salt.
Mode.—Chop the meat and vegetables into small pieces, then add them along with the peas to the water. Simmer gently for 3 hours; thicken with the oatmeal, simmer for another 15 minutes while stirring constantly, and season with pepper and salt.
Time.—3-1/4 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Time—3.25 hours. Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Seasonable in winter.
In season during winter.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c.
Note.—This soup can be made from the broth in which tripe has been boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, etc.
TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas).
TURKEY SOUP (a Holiday Dish at Christmas).
188. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains of a cold roast turkey, 2 oz. of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup.
188. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the leftovers from a cold roast turkey, 2 oz. of rice flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock; let it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean. Take the bones out, and work the soup through a sieve; when cool, skim well. Mix the rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup; add it with the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the turkey into small pieces and add it to the stock; let it simmer slowly until the bones are completely clean. Remove the bones, and strain the soup through a sieve; when it cools, skim off the fat. Mix the rice flour or arrowroot into a batter with a bit of the soup; add this along with the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Bring it to a boil and serve.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 10d. per quart.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 10p. per quart.
Seasonable at Christmas.
In season at Christmas.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may be served in it.
Note.—Instead of thickening this soup, you can serve it with vermicelli or macaroni.
THE TURKEY.—The common turkey is a native of North America, and was thence introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII. According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," about the year 1585 it begun to form a dish at our rural Christmas feasts.
THE TURKEY.—The common turkey originates from North America and was introduced to England during the reign of Henry VIII. According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," around 1585 it began to be served as a dish at our rural Christmas feasts.
"Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress'd,
Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
As then in the country is counted good cheer."
"Beef, lamb, and pork, delicious pies to eat,
Pig, veal, goose, and roasted turkey, all well prepared,
Cheese, apples, and nuts, cheerful songs to enjoy,
As that’s considered good times in the countryside."
It is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we have; yet, in its wild state, is found in great abundance in the forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined that the severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever becoming plentiful. They are very fond of the seeds of nettles, and the seeds of the foxglove poison them.
It is one of the toughest birds to raise among all that we have; yet, in the wild, it’s found in large numbers in the forests of Canada, where one might have thought that the harsh climate would make it unlikely to thrive. They really like the seeds of nettles, and the seeds of the foxglove can be toxic to them.
TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude's Recipe).
TURTLE SOUP (based on M. Ude's recipe).
189. INGREDIENTS.—A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1 large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1 onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of Madeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the Quenelles à Tortue, 1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped parsley, the juice of 2 lemons.
189. INGREDIENTS.—One turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 veal shanks, 1 large bunch of fresh herbs, 3 bay leaves, parsley, green onions, 1 onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of Madeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the Quenelles à Tortue, 1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped parsley, and the juice of 2 lemons.
Mode.—To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of the turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut this off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c. may run out, when the flesh should be cut off along the spine, with the knife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which sometimes might escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire, a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; and when you perceive that they come easily off, take them out of the water, and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly till the bones can be taken off, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces.
Method.—To make this soup more easily, remove the turtle's head the day before. In the morning, open the turtle by pressing a knife down firmly on the shell of its back while cutting around it. Stand it upright to let all the water drain out, then carefully cut the flesh along the spine, angling the knife towards the bones to avoid hitting the gall, which can sometimes be hard to see. Once you've removed all the meat from the limbs, wash them well and let them drain. Have a large pot of boiling water ready on the stove, and put the shells in. When you see that the shells come off easily, take them out of the water and prick them all, including those from the back, belly, fins, head, etc. Boil the back and belly until the bones can be removed, but don’t cook the softer parts too much, as they will be boiled again in the soup. When the softer parts come off easily, spread them out on earthen dishes individually to prevent them from sticking together, and let them cool. Keep the liquid from blanching the softer parts, and let the bones simmer thoroughly in it, as this liquid will be used to flavor all the sauces.
All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be drawn down in the following manner:—Lay the slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and over the whole the members. Now moisten with the water in which you are boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. It may now be ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into the fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling. Put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a turtle,—sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. With respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and if so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is also completely done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a very thin white roux; for turtle soup must not be much thickened. When the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils. Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then draw the stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, and all the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce. By this time all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; when they must be cut to about the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup, which must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock,—sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion cut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan, with about 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow fire till quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, adding a small bit of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour. When done, rub it through a tammy, and add it to the soup. Let this boil, till no white scum rises; then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan: when you have all out, pour the soup over the bits of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows:—
All the meat from the inner parts, the four legs, and the head must be prepared as follows: Lay the slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stewpan, then add the knuckles of veal, depending on the size of the turtle. Next, add the inner meat of the turtle, and place the limbs on top. Now moisten with the water that you’re using to boil the shell, and let it simmer thoroughly. You can check if it’s fully cooked by inserting a knife into the fleshy part of the meat. If no blood comes out, it’s time to moisten it again with the liquid that the bones and such have been cooking in. Add a large bunch of all the herbs typically used for turtle cooking—sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley, green onions, and a large onion studded with 6 cloves. Let everything cook until it’s completely done. For the limbs, check them to see if they’re cooked; if they are, drain them and set them aside, as they will only be added when the soup is completely finished. When the meat is also completely cooked, strain it through a silk sieve, and prepare a very thin white roux, as turtle soup shouldn’t be too thick. Once the flour is properly cooked on a low flame and has a nice color, moisten it with the liquid, keeping it on the heat until it boils. Make sure the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then move the stewpan to the side of the stove to skim off the white foam and all the fat and oil that rise to the surface. By this time, all the softer parts should be cool enough to cut into pieces about one or two inches square, and toss them into the soup, which should now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat and foam. Remove all the herb leaves from the stock—sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley, green onions, and a large onion cut into four pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan with about 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a low flame until completely melted. Then pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, add a small pinch of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour. When finished, strain it through a tammy and add it to the soup. Allow it to boil until no white foam rises; then use a skimmer to remove all the bits of turtle from the sauce and transfer them to a clean stewpan. Once you have removed everything, pour the soup over the turtle pieces through a tammy and proceed as follows:—
QUENELLES À TORTUE.—Make some quenelles à tortue, which being substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb., scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine; then thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another. Next try this farce or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain its consistency: if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the farce is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg; poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain on a sieve, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice of 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into the soup. THE FINS may be served as a plat d'entrée with a little turtle sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle au bain marie, and serve the members entire, with a matelote sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks' combs, quenelles, &c. When either lemon-juice or cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must take place.
QUENELLES À TORTUE.—Make some quenelles à tortue, which, as substitutes for eggs, don't need to be too delicate. Take about 1 lb. of the meaty part of a leg of veal, scrape off all the meat, making sure to remove any sinews or fat, and soak the same amount of breadcrumbs in milk. Once the bread is well soaked, squeeze it out and put it into a mortar, along with the veal, a small amount of calf's udder, a bit of butter, the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, then pound it all very finely. Next, thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs and the yolk of another. Then, test this farce or stuffing in boiling water to check its consistency: if it's too thin, add another yolk. When the farce is ready, take half of it, and mix in some chopped parsley. Let everything cool, then roll it into balls the size of an egg yolk; poach them in salted boiling water, and when they are firm, drain them in a sieve and add them to the turtle soup. Before serving, squeeze the juice of 2 or 3 lemons with a bit of cayenne pepper, and pour that into the soup. THE FINS can be served as a plat d'entrée with a bit of turtle sauce; if not, the next day you can gently heat the turtle au bain marie, and serve the pieces whole with a matelote sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks' combs, quenelles, etc. Once lemon juice or cayenne pepper has been added, no boiling should take place.
Note.—It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more uniform. Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve the green fat (be cautious not to study a very brown colour,—the natural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true connoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewise when the turtle is entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time. You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first, it will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break all the rest into rags. If you warm in a bain marie, the turtle will always retain the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomes strong, and loses the delicacy of its flavour.
Note.—It's important to note that preparing the turtle a day before it's used is usually better, as the flavor becomes more consistent. When you’re cooking a very large turtle, make sure to keep the green fat (avoid turning it too brown—the natural green is favored by every gourmet and true connoisseur) in a separate saucepan, and also, when the turtle is fully cooked, have as many serving dishes as you plan to use. You can't put everything in one big pot for several reasons: first, it will take a long time to cool down; second, if you take some out, it will break apart the rest of it. If you reheat it in a bain marie, the turtle will always maintain the same taste; however, if you boil it frequently, it will become overly strong and lose its delicate flavor.
THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP.—This is the most expensive soup brought to table. It is sold by the quart,—one guinea being the standard price for that quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2s. per lb., according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many cooks use the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by being put in hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. The cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs., is about £2, and for a small one, containing the green fat, 7s. 6d. From these about 6 quarts of good soup may be made.
THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP.—This is the most expensive soup served. It is sold by the quart—one guinea is the standard price for that amount. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2s. per lb., depending on supply and demand. When live turtle is expensive, many cooks use canned turtle, which is killed when caught and preserved in airtight canisters to be sent over to England. The cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs., is about £2, and for a smaller one, containing the green fat, it's 7s. 6d. From these, about 6 quarts of good soup can be made.
[Illustration: THE TURTLE.]
[Illustration: THE TURTLE.]
THE GREEN TURTLE.—This reptile is found in large numbers on the coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics, in both the old and new worlds. Their length is often five feet and upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs. As turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for them all. Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the power of living many months without food; so that they live harmlessly and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they seem to have no common bond of association, but merely assemble in the same places as if entirely by accident. England is mostly supplied with them from the West Indies, whence they are brought alive and in tolerable health. The green turtle is highly prized on account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest and most delicate parts. The soup, however, is apt to disagree with weak stomachs. As an article of luxury, the turtle has only come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord mayor's dinner in Guildhall.
THE GREEN TURTLE.—This reptile is found in large numbers along the coasts of all the islands and continents in the tropics, both in the old and new worlds. They can often reach lengths of over five feet and weigh between 50 to 500 or 600 pounds. Since turtles have a constant supply of food on the coasts they frequent, they aren’t aggressive; the underwater meadows where they feed provide plenty for all of them. Like other amphibians, they can survive for many months without food, allowing them to live peacefully together, even though they seem to gather in the same places by pure chance. England mostly gets its supply from the West Indies, where they are brought alive and in decent health. The green turtle is highly valued for the delicious quality of its meat, with the fat from the upper and lower shells considered the richest and most delicate parts. However, the soup can upset weak stomachs. As a luxury item, turtle has only become fashionable in the last 100 years, and several hundred bowls of turtle soup are served every year at the Lord Mayor's dinner in Guildhall.
A GOOD FAMILY SOUP.
190. INGREDIENTS.—Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, any cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1 parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacupful of rice; salt and pepper to taste.
190. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold tongue, 2 lbs. of beef shin, any leftover pieces of meat or beef bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1 parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacup of rice; salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently for 4 hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat. Strain off the soup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels and soft parts of the tongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for use, skim off all the fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in a small quantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetables are tender, and serve with toasted bread.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a pot and simmer gently for 4 hours, or until all the flavor is extracted from the meat. Strain the soup and let it cool. Save the kernels and soft parts of the tongue. When you're ready to use the soup, skim off all the fat, add the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, and slice in a small amount of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; simmer until the vegetables are tender, and serve with toasted bread.
Time.—5 hours. __Average cost_,3d. per quart.
Time.—5 hours. __Average cost_, 3 pence per quart.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Sufficient for 12 persons.
Enough for 12 people.
HODGE-PODGE.
191. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint of table-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery; pepper and salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour.
191. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. beef shank, 3 quarts water, 1 pint table beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 bunch celery; salt and pepper to taste; thickener made of butter and flour.
Mode.—Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer for a few minutes, and skim carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning; stew gently till the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and flour, and serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery.
Mode.—Put the meat, beer, and water in a pot; simmer for a few minutes and skim the surface carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning; cook gently until the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and flour, and serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery.
Time.—3 hours, or rather more. Average cost, 3d. per quart.
Time.—3 hours, or a bit more. Average cost, 3d. per quart.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 12 persons.
Available any time. Enough for 12 people.
TABLE BEER.—This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not made so much with a view to strength, as to transparency of colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste. It is, or ought to be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the best pale malt, or amber and malt. Six barrels are usually drawn from one quarter of malt, with which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs. of hops. As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it is not adapted to keep long.
TABLE BEER.—This is simply a light ale, made not so much for its strength, but for its clarity and pleasant bitterness. It is, or should be, produced by the professional brewers in London using the finest pale malt or amber malt. Typically, six barrels are brewed from one quarter of malt, mixed with 4 or 5 lbs. of hops. As a drink, it is enjoyable when fresh; however, it doesn’t keep well over time.
FISH SOUPS.
FISH STOCK.
192. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef or veal (these can be omitted), any kind of white fish trimmings, of fish which are to be dressed for table, 2 onions, the rind of 1/2 a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 carrots, 2 quarts of water.
192. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef or veal (you can skip these), any kind of white fish trimmings from fish that are being prepared for serving, 2 onions, the peel of 1/2 a lemon, a handful of fresh herbs, 2 carrots, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut up the fish, and put it, with the other ingredients, into the water. Simmer for 2 hours; skim the liquor carefully, and strain it. When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water.
Method.—Chop the fish and place it, along with the other ingredients, into the water. Let it simmer for 2 hours; carefully skim the liquid and strain it. If you want a richer stock, sauté the vegetables and fish before adding the water.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, with meat, 10d. per quart; without, 3d.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, with meat, 10 pence per quart; without, 3 pence.
Note.—Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it soon turns sour.
Note.—Don’t make fish stock too far in advance, as it quickly goes bad.
CRAYFISH SOUP.
193. INGREDIENTS.—50 crayfish, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 anchovies, the crumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192.
193. INGREDIENTS.—50 crayfish, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 anchovies, the crumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster roe, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192.
Mode.—Shell the crayfish, and put the fish between two plates until they are wanted; pound the shells in a mortar, with the butter and anchovies; when well beaten, add a pint of stock, and simmer for 3/4 of an hour. Strain it through a hair sieve, put the remainder of the stock to it, with the crumb of the rolls; give it one boil, and rub it through a tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put in the fish, but do not let the soup boil, after it has been rubbed through the tammy. If necessary, add seasoning.
Mode.—Shell the crayfish and place the fish between two plates until needed; crush the shells in a mortar along with the butter and anchovies. Once well mixed, stir in a pint of stock and let it simmer for 45 minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve, then combine it with the remaining stock and the crumbs from the rolls; bring it to a boil briefly, then pass it through a tamis with the lobster roe. Add the fish, but do not allow the soup to boil after it has been strained through the tamis. Adjust seasoning if needed.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 3d. or 1s. 9d. per quart.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 2.5 or 1.75 per quart.
Seasonable from January to July.
Seasonal from January to July.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
[Illustration: CRAYFISH.]
[Illustration: CRAYFISH.]
THE CRAYFISH.—This is one of those fishes that were highly esteemed by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it when brought from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled with cumin, and seasoned with pepper and other condiments. A recipe tells us, that crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with about three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them, because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the water in which they are kept, to be continually renewed.
THE CRAYFISH.—This is one of those fish that were highly valued by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it when it was brought from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled with cumin, seasoned with pepper and other spices. A recipe tells us that crayfish can be kept for several days in baskets with fresh grass, like nettles, or in a bucket with about three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them, because the large amount of air they need requires the water they are kept in to be constantly replaced.
EEL SOUP.
194. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, 3 blades of mace, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water.
194. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, 3 pieces of mace, 1 bunch of mixed herbs, 1/4 oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Wash the eels, cut them into thin slices, and put them in the stewpan with the butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, then pour the water to them, and add the onion, cut in thin slices, the herbs, mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but do not break the fish. Take them out carefully, mix the flour smoothly to a batter with the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and serve.
Mode.—Clean the eels, cut them into thin slices, and place them in the pan with the butter; allow them to simmer for a few minutes, then add water, along with the onion (sliced thin), herbs, mace, and seasoning. Simmer until the eels are tender, making sure not to break the fish. Carefully remove them, mix the flour into a smooth batter with the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and serve.
Time.—1 hour, or rather more. Average cost, 10d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour, or a bit more. Average cost, 10 pence per quart.
Seasonable from June to March.
Available from June to March.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
Note.—This soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream, and adding a little ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
Note.—You can change the flavor of this soup by leaving out the cream and adding a bit of ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
LOBSTER SOUP.
195. INGREDIENTS.—3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of a French roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of sweet herbs, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 2 oz. of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and pepper to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water.
195. INGREDIENTS.—3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of a French roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of fresh herbs, 1 strip of lemon peel, 2 oz. of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoon of flour, 1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and pepper to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Pick the meat from the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine, and small claws in a mortar, previously taking away the brown fin and the bag in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with the crumb of the roll, anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon-peel, and the water; simmer gently till all the goodness is extracted, and strain it off. Pound the spawn in a mortar, with the butter, nutmeg, and flour, and mix with it the cream and milk. Give one boil up, at the same time adding the tails cut in pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of the lobster, seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few bread crumbs; moisten them with the egg, heat them in the soup, and serve.
Mode.—Remove the meat from the lobsters, and grind the fins, backbone, and small claws in a mortar, taking out the brown fin and the sack in the head first. Place it in a saucepan along with the bread crumbs, anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon zest, and water; simmer gently until all the flavors are extracted, then strain it. Pound the roe in a mortar with butter, nutmeg, and flour, then combine it with cream and milk. Bring it to a boil, while adding the lobster tails cut into pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remaining lobster, seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, then add a little flour and some bread crumbs; moisten them with egg, cook them in the soup, and serve.
Time.—2 hours, or rather more. Average cost, 3s 6d per quart.
Time.—2 hours, or a bit more. Average cost, £0.17 per quart.
Seasonable from April to October.
Available from April to October.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
OYSTER SOUP.
I.
196. INGREDIENTS.—6 dozen of oysters, 2 quarts of white stock, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of flour; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste.
196. INGREDIENTS.—6 dozen oysters, 2 quarts of white stock, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. butter, 1-1/2 oz. flour; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own liquor; take them out, beard them, and put them in a tureen. Take a pint of the stock, put in the beards and the liquor, which must be carefully strained, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. Take it off the fire, strain it again, and add the remainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace. Bring it to a boil, add the thickening of butter and flour, simmer for 5 minutes, stir in the boiling cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own juice; remove them, clean them, and put them in a serving bowl. Take a pint of the broth, add the cleaned oysters and the strained juice, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove it from the heat, strain it again, and mix in the rest of the broth along with the spices and mace. Bring it to a boil, stir in a mixture of butter and flour to thicken, simmer for 5 minutes, then mix in the hot cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 2s. 8d. per quart.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, £0.13 per quart.
Seasonable from September to April.
In season from September to April.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Note.—This soup can be made less rich by using milk instead of cream, and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour.
Note.—This soup can be made lighter by using milk instead of cream, and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour.
II.
197. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. of flour.
197. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. of flour.
Mode.—Beard the oysters, and scald them in their own liquor; then add it, well strained, to the broth; thicken with the butter and flour, and simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Put in the oysters, stir well, but do not let it boil, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Shuck the oysters and cook them in their own juices; then add the strained juices to the broth. Thicken it with butter and flour, and let it simmer for 15 minutes. Add the oysters, stir well, but don’t let it boil, and serve very hot.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 2s. per quart.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, 2 shillings per quart.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
SEASON OF OYSTERS.—From April and May to the end of July, oysters are said to be sick; but by the end of August they become healthy, having recovered from the effects of spawning. When they are not in season, the males have a black, and the females a milky substance in the gill. From some lines of Oppian, it would appear that the ancients were ignorant that the oyster is generally found adhering to rocks. The starfish is one of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves. The poet says:—
SEASON OF OYSTERS.—From April and May until the end of July, oysters are said to be unhealthy; however, by the end of August, they become healthy again after recovering from spawning. When they are out of season, the males have a black substance, while females have a milky one in their gills. According to some lines from Oppian, it seems the ancients didn’t realize that oysters usually cling to rocks. One of the most dangerous enemies of these bivalves is the starfish. The poet says:—
The prickly star creeps on with full deceit
To force the oyster from his close retreat.
When gaping lids their widen'd void display,
The watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray,
Of all its treasures spoils the rifled case,
And empty shells the sandy hillock grace.
The prickly star quietly moves in with full trickery
To force the oyster out of its tight hiding spot.
When gaping shells reveal their wide openings,
The watchful star pushes in a sharp ray,
Taking all the treasures from the looted shell,
And empty shells decorate the sandy mound.
PRAWN SOUP.
198. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of prawns, the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste, 1 blade of mace, 1 pint of vinegar, a little lemon-juice.
198. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of prawns, the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste, 1 blade of mace, 1 pint of vinegar, a little lemon juice.
Mode.—Pick out the tails of the prawns, put the bodies in a stewpan with 1 blade of mace, 1/2 pint of vinegar, and the same quantity of water; stew them for 1/4 hour, and strain off the liquor. Put the fish stock or water into a stewpan; add the strained liquor, pound the prawns with the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup, rub them through a tammy, and mix them by degrees with the soup; add ketchup or anchovy sauce to taste, with a little lemon-juice. When it is well cooked, put in a few picked prawns; let them get thoroughly hot, and serve. If not thick enough, put in a little butter and flour.
Mode.—Remove the tails from the prawns, then place the bodies in a saucepan with 1 blade of mace, 1/2 pint of vinegar, and the same amount of water. Simmer for 15 minutes, then strain the liquid. Pour the fish stock or water into a saucepan; add the strained liquid. Crush the prawns with some bread soaked in a bit of the soup, pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and gradually mix it into the soup. Add ketchup or anchovy sauce to taste, along with a splash of lemon juice. Once it’s well cooked, add a few whole prawns; let them heat through completely, and serve. If it’s not thick enough, add a bit of butter and flour.
Time.—hour. Average cost, 1s. 1d. per quart, if made with water.
Time.—hour. Average cost, 1s. 1d. per quart, if made with water.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Available year-round. Fits 8 people.
Note.—This can be thickened with tomatoes, and vermicelli served in it, which makes it a very tasteful soup.
Note.—This can be thickened with tomatoes, and vermicelli added to it, which makes it a very delicious soup.
[Illustration: THE PRAWN.]
[Illustration: THE PRAWN.]
THE PRAWN.—This little fish bears a striking resemblance to the shrimp, but is neither so common nor so small. It is to be found on most of the sandy shores of Europe. The Isle of Wight is famous for shrimps, where they are potted; but both the prawns and the shrimps vended in London, are too much salted for the excellence of their natural flavour to be preserved. They are extremely lively little animals, as seen in their native retreats.
THE PRAWN.—This little seafood looks a lot like the shrimp, but it's neither as common nor as small. You can find it along most sandy shores of Europe. The Isle of Wight is well-known for its shrimps, which are often potted; however, both the prawns and shrimps sold in London are too heavily salted for their natural flavor to shine through. They are really lively little creatures when spotted in their natural habitats.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
FISH.
CHAPTER VII.
THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES.
199. IN NATURAL HISTORY, FISHES form the fourth class in the system of Linnaeus, and are described as having long under-jaws, eggs without white, organs of sense, fins for supporters, bodies covered with concave scales, gills to supply the place of lungs for respiration, and water for the natural element of their existence. Had mankind no other knowledge of animals than of such as inhabit the land and breathe their own atmosphere, they would listen with incredulous wonder, if told that there were other kinds of beings which existed only in the waters, and which would die almost as soon as they were taken from them. However strongly these facts might be attested, they would hardly believe them, without the operation of their own senses, as they would recollect the effect produced on their own bodies when immersed in water, and the impossibility of their sustaining life in it for any lengthened period of time. Experience, however, has taught them, that the "great deep" is crowded with inhabitants of various sizes, and of vastly different constructions, with modes of life entirely distinct from those which belong to the animals of the land, and with peculiarities of design, equally wonderful with those of any other works which have come from the hand of the Creator. The history of these races, however, must remain for ever, more or less, in a state of darkness, since the depths in which they live, are beyond the power of human exploration, and since the illimitable expansion of their domain places them almost entirely out of the reach of human accessibility.
199. IN NATURAL HISTORY, FISHES are the fourth class in Linnaeus's system and are characterized by long lower jaws, eggs without yolk, sensory organs, fins for support, bodies covered in curved scales, gills that replace lungs for breathing, and water as their natural environment. If humans only knew about land animals that breathe air, they would listen in disbelief if told that there are creatures that live exclusively in water and would die soon after being taken from it. No matter how strongly these facts were confirmed, they would find it hard to believe without experiencing it themselves, as they would remember how their own bodies reacted when submerged in water and how impossible it is for them to live in it for an extended period. However, experience has shown them that the "great deep" is filled with creatures of various sizes and very different structures, with lifestyles completely different from those of land animals and features just as remarkable as anything else created by the Creator. The story of these species, however, will likely remain shrouded in mystery since the depths they inhabit are beyond human exploration, and their vast domain is mostly inaccessible to us.
200. IN STUDYING THE CONFORMATION OF FISHES, we naturally conclude that they are, in every respect, well adapted to the element in which they have their existence. Their shape has a striking resemblance to the lower part of a ship; and there is no doubt that the form of the fish originally suggested the form of the ship. The body is in general slender, gradually diminishing towards each of its extremities, and flattened on each of its sides. This is precisely the form of the lower part of the hull of a ship; and it enables both the animal and the vessel, with comparative ease, to penetrate and divide the resisting medium for which they have been adapted. The velocity of a ship, however, in sailing before the wind, is by no means to be compared to that of a fish. It is well known that the largest fishes will, with the greatest ease, overtake a ship in full sail, play round it without effort, and shoot ahead of it at pleasure. This arises from their great flexibility, which, to compete with mocks the labours of art, and enables them to migrate thousands of miles in a season, without the slightest indications of languor or fatigue.
200. WHEN WE STUDY THE BODY SHAPE OF FISH, we naturally conclude that they are, in every way, perfectly adapted to the environment in which they live. Their shape closely resembles the bottom part of a ship, and it's clear that the design of fish originally inspired the design of ships. Generally, their bodies are slender, tapering off at both ends, and flattened on the sides. This mirrors the shape of a ship's hull and allows both the fish and the vessel to move through the water with relative ease. However, a ship's speed when sailing with the wind can't compare to that of a fish. It's well known that even the largest fish can easily catch up to a ship under full sail, swim around it effortlessly, and dart ahead whenever they want. This is due to their incredible flexibility, which often outperforms human engineering and allows them to travel thousands of miles in a season without showing any signs of tiredness or fatigue.
201. THE PRINCIPAL INSTRUMENTS EMPLOYED BY FISHES to accelerate their motion, are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. By means of the air-bladder they enlarge or diminish the specific gravity of their bodies. When they wish to sink, they compress the muscles of the abdomen, and eject the air contained in it; by which, their weight, compared with that of the water, is increased, and they consequently descend. On the other hand, when they wish to rise, they relax the compression of the abdominal muscles, when the air-bladder fills and distends, and the body immediately ascends to the surface. How simply, yet how wonderfully, has the Supreme Being adapted certain means to the attainment of certain ends! Those fishes which are destitute of the air-bladder are heavy in the water, and have no great "alacrity" in rising. The larger proportion of them remain at the bottom, unless they are so formed as to be able to strike their native element downwards with sufficient force to enable them to ascend. When the air-bladder of a fish is burst, its power of ascending to the surface has for ever passed away. From a knowledge of this fact, the fishermen of cod are enabled to preserve them alive for a considerable time in their well-boats. The means they adopt to accomplish this, is to perforate the sound, or air-bladder, with a needle, which disengages the air, when the fishes immediately descend to the bottom of the well, into which they are thrown. Without this operation, it would be impossible to keep the cod under water whilst they had life. In swimming, the fins enable fishes to preserve their upright position, especially those of the belly, which act like two feet. Without those, they would swim with their bellies upward, as it is in their backs that the centre of gravity lies. In ascending and descending, these are likewise of great assistance, as they contract and expand accordingly. The tail is an instrument of great muscular force, and largely assists the fish in all its motions. In some instances it acts like the rudder of a ship, and enables it to turn sideways; and when moved from side to side with a quick vibratory motion, fishes are made, in the same manner as the "screw" propeller makes a steamship, to dart forward with a celerity proportioned to the muscular force with which it is employed.
201. THE MAIN TOOLS USED BY FISHES to speed up their movement are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. They use the air-bladder to change the weight of their bodies. When they want to sink, they tighten their abdominal muscles and push out the air inside it; this increases their weight compared to the water, causing them to drop. Conversely, when they want to rise, they relax the abdominal muscles, allowing the air-bladder to fill up, and they immediately float to the surface. It's amazing how the Supreme Being has perfectly designed specific tools to achieve specific purposes! Fish that lack an air-bladder are heavy in the water and struggle to rise quickly. Most of them stay at the bottom unless they are shaped in a way that enables them to push down against the water with enough force to swim upward. When a fish’s air-bladder is damaged, its ability to float to the surface is permanently lost. Fishermen targeting cod know this fact, which allows them to keep the fish alive for a long time in their well-boats. They accomplish this by using a needle to puncture the sound, or air-bladder, releasing the air, which causes the fish to sink to the bottom of the well. Without this procedure, it would be impossible to keep the cod submerged while still alive. When swimming, the fins help fish maintain an upright position, especially the belly fins, which function like two legs. Without them, fish would swim belly-up, as their center of gravity lies in their backs. The fins also greatly assist in ascending and descending as they grow and shrink accordingly. The tail is a powerful muscular tool that significantly aids fish in all their movements. At times, it works like a ship's rudder, allowing it to turn sideways; and when it moves quickly from side to side, fish are propelled forward just like a steamship is powered by a "screw" propeller, with speed depending on the muscle force used.
202. THE BODIES OF FISHES are mostly covered with a kind of horny scales; but some are almost entirely without them, or have them so minute as to be almost invisible; as is the case with the eel. The object of these is to preserve them from injury by the pressure of the water, or the sudden contact with pebbles, rocks, or sea-weeds. Others, again, are enveloped in a fatty, oleaginous substance, also intended as a defence against the friction of the water; and those in which the scales are small, are supplied with a larger quantity of slimy matter.
202. FISH BODIES are mostly covered with a type of tough scales, but some have very few or so tiny ones that they're almost invisible, like eels. These scales help protect them from damage caused by water pressure or sudden contact with stones, rocks, or seaweed. Others are coated in a greasy, oily substance, which also serves as protection against water friction; and those with smaller scales have a thicker layer of slimy mucus.
203. THE RESPIRATION OF FISHES is effected by means of those comb-like organs which are placed on each side of the neck, and which are called gills. It is curious to watch the process of breathing as it is performed by the finny tribes. It seems to be so continuous, that it might almost pass for an illustration of the vexed problem which conceals the secret of perpetual motion. In performing it, they fill their mouths with water, which they drive backwards with a force so great as to open the large flap, to allow it to escape behind. In this operation all, or a great portion, of the air contained in the water, is left among the feather-like processes of the gills, and is carried into the body, there to perform its part in the animal economy. In proof of this, it has been ascertained that, if the water in which fishes are put, is, by any means, denuded of its air, they immediately seek the surface, and begin to gasp for it. Hence, distilled water is to them what a vacuum made by an air-pump, is to most other animals. For this reason, when a fishpond, or other aqueous receptacle in which fishes are kept, is entirely frozen over, it is necessary to make holes in the ice, not so especially for the purpose of feeding them, as for that of giving them air to breathe.
203. THE RESPIRATION OF FISHES happens through the comb-like organs on each side of their necks, known as gills. It's fascinating to observe how fish breathe. The process appears so continuous that it could almost represent the elusive concept of perpetual motion. When they breathe, they fill their mouths with water and force it out backward with such power that it opens the large flap, allowing the water to escape behind. In this process, most or a significant amount of the air in the water is trapped in the feathery structures of the gills and is absorbed into their bodies, where it serves its purpose in their biology. This is evident because when fish are placed in water that has been stripped of its air, they immediately swim to the surface and start gasping for it. Thus, distilled water is to them what a vacuum created by an air pump is to most other animals. Because of this, when a fishpond or any water body where fish are kept freezes completely over, it is essential to create holes in the ice, not just for feeding them but primarily to provide them with air to breathe.
204. THE POSITIONS OF THE TEETH OF FISHES are well calculated to excite our amazement; for, in some cases, these are situated in the jaws, sometimes on the tongue or palate, and sometimes even in the throat. They are in general sharp-pointed and immovable; but in the carp they are obtuse, and in the pike so easily moved as to seem to have no deeper hold than such as the mere skin can afford. In the herring, the tongue is set with teeth, to enable it the better, it is supposed, to retain its food.
204. THE POSITIONS OF FISH TEETH are truly amazing; in some cases, they're located in the jaws, sometimes on the tongue or palate, and sometimes even in the throat. Generally, they are sharp and fixed, but in carp, they are blunt, and in pike, they are so mobile that they seem to be held in place only by the skin. In herring, the tongue is lined with teeth, presumably to help it hold onto its food better.
205. ALTHOUGH NATURALISTS HAVE DIVIDED FISHES into two great tribes, the osseous and the cartilaginous, yet the distinction is not very precise; for the first have a great deal of cartilage, and the second, at any rate, a portion of calcareous matter in their bones. It may, therefore, be said that the bones of fishes form a kind of intermediate substance between true bones and cartilages. The backbone extends through the whole length of the body, and consists of vertebrae, strong and thick towards the head, but weaker and more slender as it approaches the tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebrae, which are increased in size in proportion with the body. The ribs are attached to the processes of the vertebrae, and inclose the breast and abdomen. Some kinds, as the rays, have no ribs; whilst others, as the sturgeon and eel, have very short ones. Between the pointed processes of the vertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal (back) and the anal (below the tail) fins, which are connected with the processes by a ligament. At the breast are the sternum or breastbone, clavicles or collar-bones, and the scapulae or shoulder-blades, on which the pectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which support the ventral or belly fins are called the ossa pelvis. Besides these principal bones, there are often other smaller ones, placed between the muscles to assist their motion.
205. EVEN THOUGH NATURALISTS HAVE DIVIDED FISHES into two main groups, the osseous and the cartilaginous, the distinction isn’t very clear-cut; the first group has a lot of cartilage, and the second group still has some calcium in their bones. Therefore, we can say that the bones of fishes are a kind of mixture between real bones and cartilage. The backbone runs the entire length of the body and is made up of vertebrae, which are strong and thick near the head but become weaker and thinner toward the tail. Each species has a specific number of vertebrae, which get larger in proportion to the size of the body. The ribs attach to the vertebrae and enclose the chest and abdomen. Some species, like rays, don’t have any ribs, while others, such as sturgeon and eel, have very short ones. Between the pointed parts of the vertebrae are the bones that support the dorsal (back) and anal (below the tail) fins, which are linked to the vertebrae by a ligament. At the front are the sternum or breastbone, clavicles or collar-bones, and scapulae or shoulder-blades, which hold the pectoral or breast fins. The bones that support the ventral or belly fins are called the ossa pelvis. In addition to these main bones, there are often smaller ones situated between the muscles to help with movement.
206. SOME OF THE ORGANS OF SENSE IN FISHES are supposed to be possessed by them in a high degree, and others much more imperfectly. Of the latter kind are the senses of touch and taste, which are believed to be very slightly developed. On the other hand, those of hearing, seeing, and smelling, are ascertained to be acute, but the first in a lesser degree than both the second and third. Their possession of an auditory organ was long doubted, and even denied by some physiologists; but it has been found placed on the sides of the skull, or in the cavity which contains the brain. It occupies a position entirely distinct and detached from the skull, and, in this respect, differs in the local disposition of the same sense in birds and quadrupeds. In some fishes, as in those of the ray kind, the organ is wholly encompassed by those parts which contain the cavity of the skull; whilst in the cod and salmon kind it is in the part within the skull. Its structure is, in every way, much more simple than that of the same sense in those animals which live entirely in the air; but there is no doubt that they have the adaptation suitable to their condition. In some genera, as in the rays, the external orifice or ear is very small, and is placed in the upper surface of the head; whilst in others there is no visible external orifice whatever. However perfect the sight of fishes may be, experience has shown that this sense is of much less use to them than that of smelling, in searching for their food. The optic nerves in fishes have this peculiarity,—that they are not confounded with one another in their middle progress between their origin and their orbit. The one passes over the other without any communication; so that the nerve which comes from the left side of the brain goes distinctly to the right eye, and that which comes from the right goes distinctly to the left. In the greater part of them, the eye is covered with the same transparent skin that covers the rest of the head. The object of this arrangement, perhaps, is to defend it from the action of the water, as there are no eyelids. The globe in front is somewhat depressed, and is furnished behind with a muscle, which serves to lengthen or flatten it, according to the necessities of the animal. The crystalline humour, which in quadrupeds is flattened, is, in fishes, nearly globular. The organ of smelling in fishes is large, and is endued, at its entry, with a dilating and contracting power, which is employed as the wants of the animal may require. It is mostly by the acuteness of their smell that fishes are enabled to discover their food; for their tongue is not designed for nice sensation, being of too firm a cartilaginous substance for this purpose.
206. SOME OF THE SENSE ORGANS IN FISH are believed to be highly developed, while others are much less so. The senses of touch and taste are thought to be only slightly developed. On the other hand, hearing, sight, and smell are known to be sharp, though hearing is less acute than the other two. For a long time, the existence of an auditory organ was questioned and even denied by some scientists; however, it has been found located on the sides of the skull, or in the cavity that houses the brain. This organ is positioned entirely separate from the skull, which sets it apart from the arrangement of the same sense in birds and mammals. In some fish, like rays, the organ is completely surrounded by the parts that contain the skull cavity, while in cod and salmon, it is situated within the skull. Its structure is much simpler than that of the same sense in land animals; yet it is well-suited to their needs. In some types, like rays, the external ear hole is quite small and located on the top of the head, whereas in others, there may be no visible ear opening at all. Despite the clarity of their sight, fish actually rely more on their sense of smell to find food. The optic nerves in fish have a unique feature: they do not intertwine as they travel from their origin to their eye sockets. Instead, one nerve crosses over another without connecting; the nerve from the left side of the brain goes to the right eye, and the one from the right goes to the left. Most fish have an eye covered with the same clear skin that covers the rest of the head. This arrangement may serve to protect the eye from water, as fish do not have eyelids. The front of the eye is slightly flattened and has a muscle at the back that allows it to stretch or flatten based on the animal's needs. The lens, which is flattened in land mammals, is nearly spherical in fish. The sense of smell in fish is large and has an entry point that can expand and contract according to the animal's needs. Fish primarily rely on their keen sense of smell to find food, as their tongues are not designed for fine sensation; they are too rigid and cartilaginous for that purpose.
207. WITH RESPECT TO THE FOOD OF FISHES, this is almost universally found in their own element. They are mostly carnivorous, though they seize upon almost anything that comes in their way: they even devour their own offspring, and manifest a particular predilection for all living creatures. Those, to which Nature has meted out mouths of the greatest capacity, would seem to pursue everything with life, and frequently engage in fierce conflicts with their prey. The animal with the largest mouth is usually the victor; and he has no sooner conquered his foe than he devours him. Innumerable shoals of one species pursue those of another, with a ferocity which draws them from the pole to the equator, through all the varying temperatures and depths of their boundless domain. In these pursuits a scene of universal violence is the result; and many species must have become extinct, had not Nature accurately proportioned the means of escape, the production, and the numbers, to the extent and variety of the danger to which they are exposed. Hence the smaller species are not only more numerous, but more productive than the larger; whilst their instinct leads them in search of food and safety near the shores, where, from the shallowness of the waters, many of their foes are unable to follow them.
207. ABOUT THE FOOD OF FISH, this is almost always found in their own environment. They tend to be carnivorous, but they'll eat just about anything that comes their way: they even eat their own young, and show a strong preference for all living creatures. Those equipped by Nature with the largest mouths seem to chase after everything alive and often get into fierce battles with their prey. The animal with the biggest mouth usually wins; and as soon as they defeat their enemy, they eat them. Countless schools of one species hunt those of another with a ferocity that takes them from the poles to the equator, through all the different temperatures and depths of their vast habitat. This leads to a scene of widespread violence, and many species would likely have gone extinct if Nature hadn't carefully balanced the means of escape, reproduction, and population sizes according to the level and variety of threats they face. That's why smaller species are not only more numerous but also more prolific than the larger ones; their instincts guide them to look for food and safety near the shores, where the shallow waters prevent many of their predators from following.
208. THE FECUNDITY OF FISHES has been the wonder of every natural philosopher whose attention has been attracted to the subject. They are in general oviparous, or egg-producing; but there are a few, such as the eel and the blenny, which are viviparous, or produce their young alive. The males have the milt and the females the roe; but some individuals, as the sturgeon and the cod tribes, are said to contain both. The greater number deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel; but some of those which dwell in the depths of the ocean attach their eggs to sea-weeds. In every instance, however, their fruitfulness far surpasses that of any other race of animals. According to Lewenhoeck, the cod annually spawns upwards of nine millions of eggs, contained in a single roe. The flounder produces one million; the mackerel above five hundred thousand; a herring of a moderate size at least ten thousand; a carp fourteen inches in length, according to Petit, contained two hundred and sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four; a perch deposited three hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and forty; and a female sturgeon seven millions six hundred and fifty-three thousand two hundred. The viviparous species are by no means so prolific; yet the blenny brings forth two or three hundred at a time, which commence sporting together round their parent the moment they have come into existence.
208. THE FERTILITY OF FISH has amazed every natural philosopher who has looked into the topic. In general, they lay eggs, but a few, like the eel and the blenny, give birth to live young. Males have the milt and females have the roe; however, some species, like sturgeons and certain cod, are said to have both. Most fish lay their eggs in sand or gravel, but some that live in the deep ocean attach their eggs to seaweed. In every case, their reproductive capacity far exceeds that of any other group of animals. According to Lewenhoek, a cod can spawn over nine million eggs in a single batch. The flounder lays a million; the mackerel more than five hundred thousand; a medium-sized herring at least ten thousand; a fourteen-inch carp, according to Petit, contained two hundred sixty-two thousand two hundred twenty-four; a perch laid three hundred eighty thousand six hundred forty; and a female sturgeon produced seven million six hundred fifty-three thousand two hundred. The live-bearing species aren't nearly as prolific; yet the blenny gives birth to two or three hundred at a time, which immediately start swimming around their parent as soon as they are born.
209. IN REFERENCE TO THE LONGEVITY OF FISHES, it is affirmed to surpass that of all other created beings; and it is supposed they are, to a great extent, exempted from the diseases to which the flesh of other animals is heir. In place of suffering from the rigidity of age, which is the cause of the natural decay of those that "live and move and have their being" on the land, their bodies continue to grow with each succeeding supply of food, and the conduits of life to perform their functions unimpaired. The age of fishes has not been properly ascertained, although it is believed that the most minute of the species has a longer lease of life than man. The mode in which they die has been noted by the Rev. Mr. White, the eminent naturalist of Selbourne. As soon as the fish sickens, the head sinks lower and lower, till the animal, as it were, stands upon it. After this, as it becomes weaker, it loses its poise, till the tail turns over, when it comes to the surface, and floats with its belly upwards. The reason for its floating in this manner is on account of the body being no longer balanced by the fins of the belly, and the broad muscular back preponderating, by its own gravity, over the belly, from this latter being a cavity, and consequently lighter.
209. REGARDING THE LONGEVITY OF FISH, it is said to surpass that of all other living beings. It is believed that they are largely free from the diseases that afflict other animals. Instead of suffering from the stiffness of old age, which leads to the natural decline of land animals, their bodies keep growing with every meal, and their life functions continue to operate without any issues. The age of fish hasn’t been accurately determined, but it is thought that even the smallest species can outlive humans. The way they die has been observed by Rev. Mr. White, the well-known naturalist from Selbourne. When a fish becomes ill, its head gradually sinks lower and lower, making it look like it's standing on its head. As it grows weaker, it loses its balance, causing its tail to flip over. It then surfaces and floats with its belly facing up. This floating happens because the body is no longer balanced by the belly fins, and the heavy muscular back tips the scale over the belly, which is a hollow cavity and thus lighter.
210. FISHES ARE EITHER SOLITARY OR GREGARIOUS, and some of them migrate to great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn. Of sea-fishes, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble in immense shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean; but, whether considered in their solitary or gregarious capacity, they are alike wonderful to all who look through Nature up to Nature's God, and consider, with due humility, yet exalted admiration, the sublime variety, beauty, power, and grandeur of His productions, as manifested in the Creation.
210. FISHES ARE EITHER SOLO OR SOCIAL, and some of them travel long distances to certain rivers to lay their eggs. Among sea fish, cod, herring, mackerel, and many others gather in huge schools and migrate across different parts of the ocean; however, whether they are seen as solitary or social, they are equally impressive to anyone who looks through Nature up to Nature's God and reflects, with both humility and awe, on the incredible variety, beauty, strength, and greatness of His creations as shown in the natural world.
FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.
211. AS THE NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF FISH are deemed inferior to those of what is called butchers' meat, it would appear, from all we can learn, that, in all ages, it has held only a secondary place in the estimation of those who have considered the science of gastronomy as a large element in the happiness of mankind. Among the Jews of old it was very little used, although it seems not to have been entirely interdicted, as Moses prohibited only the use of such as had neither scales nor fins. The Egyptians, however, made fish an article of diet, notwithstanding that it was rejected by their priests. Egypt, however, is not a country favourable to the production of fish, although we read of the people, when hungry, eating it raw; of epicures among them having dried it in the sun; and of its being salted and preserved, to serve as a repast on days of great solemnity.
211. FISH'S NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES are considered inferior to those of what we call meat, and it seems that throughout history, it has only held a secondary place in the minds of those who view the science of gastronomy as a key part of human happiness. Among the ancient Jews, fish was rarely used, although it doesn’t seem to have been completely banned since Moses only prohibited those without scales or fins. On the other hand, the Egyptians included fish in their diet, despite it being rejected by their priests. However, Egypt isn’t a country that produces a lot of fish, even though we hear reports of people eating it raw when hungry, of food lovers drying it in the sun, and of it being salted and preserved to be eaten during important celebrations.
The modern Egyptians are, in general, extremely temperate in regard to food. Even the richest among them take little pride, and, perhaps, experience as little delight, in the luxuries of the table. Their dishes mostly consist of pilaus, soups, and stews, prepared principally of onions, cucumbers, and other cold vegetables, mixed with a little meat cut into small pieces. On special occasions, however, a whole sheep is placed on the festive board; but during several of the hottest months of the year, the richest restrict themselves entirely to a vegetable diet. The poor are contented with a little oil or sour milk, in which they may dip their bread.
The modern Egyptians are generally very moderate when it comes to food. Even the wealthiest among them take little pride and perhaps find little joy in luxurious meals. Their dishes mainly consist of rice dishes, soups, and stews, made mostly with onions, cucumbers, and other cold vegetables, mixed with small pieces of meat. On special occasions, though, a whole sheep is served at the feast; but during some of the hottest months of the year, the wealthiest people stick entirely to a vegetarian diet. The poor are satisfied with a bit of oil or sour milk to dip their bread in.
212. PASSING FROM AFRICA TO EUROPE, we come amongst a people who have, almost from time immemorial, occupied a high place in the estimation of every civilized country; yet the Greeks, in their earlier ages, made very little use of fish as an article of diet. In the eyes of the heroes of Homer it had little favour; for Menelaus complained that "hunger pressed their digestive organs," and they had been obliged to live upon fish. Subsequently, however, fish became one of the principal articles of diet amongst the Hellenes; and both Aristophanes and Athenaeus allude to it, and even satirize their countrymen for their excessive partiality to the turbot and mullet.
212. MOVING FROM AFRICA TO EUROPE, we encounter a people who have, for almost as long as anyone can remember, held a respected place in the eyes of every civilized nation. However, in their earlier days, the Greeks used very little fish in their diet. To the heroes of Homer, it wasn’t highly regarded; Menelaus even complained that "hunger pressed their digestive organs," and they had to survive on fish. Later on, though, fish became one of the main foods for the Hellenes; both Aristophanes and Athenaeus reference it and even poke fun at their fellow countrymen for their excessive love of turbot and mullet.
So infatuated were many of the Greek gastronomes with the love of fish, that some of them would have preferred death from indigestion to the relinquishment of the precious dainties with which a few of the species supplied them. Philoxenes of Cythera was one of these. On being informed by his physician that he was going to die of indigestion, on account of the quantity he was consuming of a delicious fish, "Be it so," he calmly observed; "but before I die, let me finish the remainder."
So obsessed were many of the Greek food lovers with their passion for fish that some of them would have rather faced death from indigestion than give up the precious delicacies provided by certain species. Philoxenes of Cythera was one of them. When his doctor told him he was going to die from indigestion due to the amount of delicious fish he was eating, he calmly replied, "That's fine; but before I die, let me finish this last bit."
213. THE GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF GREECE was highly favourable for the development of a taste for the piscatory tribes; and the skill of the Greek cooks was so great, that they could impart every variety of relish to the dish they were called upon to prepare. Athenaeus has transmitted to posterity some very important precepts upon their ingenuity in seasoning with salt, oil, and aromatics.
213. THE GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF GREECE was very favorable for developing a love for fish; and the skill of Greek cooks was so impressive that they could add every kind of flavor to the dishes they were asked to prepare. Athenaeus has passed down some important guidelines about their creativity in seasoning with salt, oil, and spices.
At the present day the food of the Greeks, through the combined influence of poverty and the long fasts which their religion imposes upon them, is, to a large extent, composed of fish, accompanied with vegetables and fruit. Caviare, prepared from the roes of sturgeons, is the national ragout, which, like all other fish dishes, they season with aromatic herbs. Snails dressed in garlic are also a favourite dish.
Nowadays, the food of the Greeks is largely shaped by a mix of poverty and the extended fasts their religion requires. As a result, their diet mainly consists of fish, along with vegetables and fruit. Caviar, made from sturgeon roe, is the national dish, and like all their fish dishes, it's flavored with aromatic herbs. Garlic snails are also a popular favorite.
214. AS THE ROMANS, in a great measure, took their taste in the fine arts from the Greeks, so did they, in some measure, their piscine appetites. The eel-pout and the lotas's liver were the favourite fish dishes of the Roman epicures; whilst the red mullet was esteemed as one of the most delicate fishes that could be brought to the table.
214. Just as the Romans largely drew their taste in fine arts from the Greeks, they also, to some extent, took inspiration for their seafood preferences. The eel-pout and the liver of the lota were favorite fish dishes among Roman food lovers, while the red mullet was regarded as one of the most delicate fish that could be served.
With all the elegance, taste, and refinement of Roman luxury, it was sometimes promoted or accompanied by acts of great barbarity. In proof of this, the mention of the red mullet suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the, to us, horrible entertainment of the fashionable in Roman circles. It may be premised, that as England has, Rome, in her palmy days, had, her fops, who had, no doubt, through the medium of their cooks, discovered that when the scales of the red mullet were removed, the flesh presented a fine pink-colour. Having discovered this, it was further observed that at the death of the animal, this colour passed through a succession of beautiful shades, and, in order that these might be witnessed and enjoyed in their fullest perfection, the poor mullet was served alive in a glass vessel.
With all the elegance, style, and sophistication of Roman luxury, it was sometimes accompanied by acts of extreme cruelty. For example, the mention of red mullet highlights how it was sometimes treated for the, to us, horrible entertainment of the fashionable in Roman society. It's worth noting that just like England, Rome had its fops, who likely learned through their cooks that when the scales of the red mullet were removed, the flesh revealed a beautiful pink color. Once they discovered this, they noticed that at the fish's death, this color changed through a series of lovely shades. To fully appreciate these colors, the poor mullet was served alive in a glass container.
215. THE LOVE OF FISH among the ancient Romans rose to a real mania. Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine compounded of the liver of red mullets; and Lucullus had a canal cut through a mountain, in the neighbourhood of Naples, that fish might be the more easily transported to the gardens of his villa. Hortensius, the orator, wept over the death of a turbot which he had fed with his own hands; and the daughter of Druses adorned one that she had, with rings of gold. These were, surely, instances of misplaced affection; but there is no accounting for tastes. It was but the other day that we read in the "Times" of a wealthy living English hermit, who delights in the companionship of rats!
215. THE LOVE OF FISH among the ancient Romans became a real obsession. Apicius offered a prize to anyone who could come up with a new brine made from the liver of red mullets; and Lucullus had a canal dug through a mountain near Naples so that fish could be more easily transported to the gardens of his villa. Hortensius, the orator, cried over the death of a turbot he had fed with his own hands; and the daughter of Druses decorated one that she had with gold rings. These were definitely examples of misplaced affection, but tastes are hard to explain. Just the other day, we read in the "Times" about a wealthy English hermit who enjoys the company of rats!
The modern Romans are merged in the general name of Italians, who, with the exception of macaroni, have no specially characteristic article of food.
The modern Romans are grouped under the general term Italians, who, apart from macaroni, don't have any specific signature dish.
216. FROM ROME TO GAUL is, considering the means of modern locomotion, no great way; but the ancient sumptuary laws of that kingdom give us little information regarding the ichthyophagous propensities of its inhabitants. Louis XII. engaged six fishmongers to furnish his board with fresh-water animals, and Francis I. had twenty-two, whilst Henry the Great extended his requirements a little further, and had twenty-four. In the time of Louis XIV. the cooks had attained to such a degree of perfection in their art, that they could convert the form and flesh of the trout, pike, or carp, into the very shape and flavour of the most delicious game.
216. GETTING FROM ROME TO GAUL is, considering today’s travel options, not a long journey; however, the ancient dietary laws of that kingdom give us little insight into the fish-eating habits of its people. Louis XII had six fishmongers to supply his table with freshwater fish, and Francis I had twenty-two, while Henry IV expanded his needs a bit more to twenty-four. By the time of Louis XIV, cooks had perfected their craft to such an extent that they could transform the appearance and taste of trout, pike, or carp into that of the most exquisite game.
The French long enjoyed a European reputation for their skill and refinement in the preparing of food. In place of plain joints, French cookery delights in the marvels of what are called made dishes, ragouts, stews, and fricassees, in which no trace of the original materials of which they are compounded is to be found.
The French have long been known in Europe for their skill and elegance in preparing food. Instead of simple roasts, French cuisine revels in the wonders of what are called composed dishes, ragouts, stews, and fricassees, where no trace of the original ingredients can be found.
217. FROM GAUL WE CROSS TO BRITAIN, where it has been asserted, by, at least, one authority, that the ancient inhabitants ate no fish. However this may be, we know that the British shores, particularly those of the North Sea, have always been well supplied with the best kinds of fish, which we may reasonably infer was not unknown to the inhabitants, or likely to be lost upon them for the lack of knowledge as to how they tasted. By the time of Edward II., fish had, in England, become a dainty, especially the sturgeon, which was permitted to appear on no table but that of the king. In the fourteenth century, a decree of King John informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises; whilst in the days of the Troubadours, whales were fished for and caught in the Mediterranean Sea, for the purpose of being used as human food.
217. FROM GAUL WE CROSS TO BRITAIN, where at least one source claims that the ancient inhabitants didn't eat fish. Regardless, it's clear that the British shores, especially those along the North Sea, have always had an abundance of high-quality fish, which we can reasonably assume the locals were aware of and appreciated. By the time of Edward II, fish had become a delicacy in England, particularly sturgeon, which was served only at the king's table. In the fourteenth century, a decree from King John tells us that people consumed both seals and porpoises; meanwhile, during the era of the Troubadours, whales were hunted and caught in the Mediterranean Sea for human consumption.
Whatever checks the ancient British may have had upon their piscatory appetites, there are happily none of any great consequence upon the modern, who delight in wholesome food of every kind. Their taste is, perhaps, too much inclined to that which is accounted solid and substantial; but they really eat more moderately, even of animal food, than either the French or the Germans. Roast beef, or other viands cooked in the plainest manner, are, with them, a sufficient luxury; yet they delight in living well, whilst it is easy to prove how largely their affections are developed by even the prospect of a substantial cheer. In proof of this we will just observe, that if a great dinner is to be celebrated, it is not uncommon for the appointed stewards and committee to meet and have a preliminary dinner among themselves, in order to arrange the great one, and after that, to have another dinner to discharge the bill which the great one cost. This enjoyable disposition we take to form a very large item in the aggregate happiness of the nation.
Whatever limits the ancient British might have had on their love for fish, thankfully there are hardly any significant ones for modern folks, who enjoy good food of all kinds. Their taste might lean a bit too much towards what's considered solid and hearty; however, they actually eat more moderately, even when it comes to meat, than either the French or the Germans. Roast beef, or other dishes cooked in the simplest way, are considered quite a luxury for them; yet they take pleasure in living well, and it's easy to see how their feelings are greatly influenced just by the thought of a hearty meal. To illustrate this, it's common for those organizing a big dinner to have a preliminary meal together to plan the large event, and then to have another meal afterward to settle the bill for the big dinner. This enjoyment contributes significantly to the overall happiness of the nation.
218. THE GENERAL USE OF FISH, as an article of human food among civilized nations, we have thus sufficiently shown, and will conclude this portion of our subject with the following hints, which ought to be remembered by all those who are fond of occasionally varying their dietary with a piscine dish:—
218. THE GENERAL USE OF FISH, as a food source for people in civilized countries, has been adequately demonstrated, and we’ll wrap up this section with some tips that everyone who enjoys mixing up their meals with a fish dish should keep in mind:—
I. Fish shortly before they spawn are, in general, best in condition. When the spawning is just over, they are out of season, and unfit for human food.
I. Fish shortly before they spawn are generally in the best condition. When the spawning is just over, they are out of season and not suitable for human consumption.
II. When fish is out of season, it has a transparent, bluish tinge, however much it may be boiled; when it is in season, its muscles are firm, and boil white and curdy.
II. When fish is out of season, it has a clear, bluish hue, no matter how much it's cooked; when it's in season, its flesh is firm, and it boils white and creamy.
III. As food for invalids, white fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal-fish, and whiting, are the best; flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot, and flounders, are also good.
III. For people who are sick, white fish like ling, cod, haddock, coal-fish, and whiting are the best choices; flat fish such as sole, skate, turbot, and flounder are also good options.
IV. Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout soon spoil or decompose after they are killed; therefore, to be in perfection, they should be prepared for the table on the day they are caught. With flat fish, this is not of such consequence, as they will keep longer. The turbot, for example, is improved by being kept a day or two.
IV. Salmon, mackerel, herring, and trout spoil quickly after they're caught, so to be at their best, they should be cooked on the same day they are caught. With flatfish, it’s not as urgent, since they last longer. For instance, turbot actually gets better if it's kept for a day or two.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DRESSING FISH.
219. IN DRESSING FISH, of any kind, the first point to be attended to, is to see that it be perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it too much; as by doing so the flavour is diminished. If the fish is to be boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. Cod-fish, whiting, and haddock, are far better if a little salted, and kept a day; and if the weather be not very hot, they will be good for two days.
219. WHEN PREPARING FISH of any kind, the first thing to check is that it’s completely clean. It’s a common mistake to wash it too much, as this can lessen the flavor. If you're boiling the fish, add a bit of salt and vinegar to the water to help it firm up after cleaning. Cod, whiting, and haddock taste much better if they’re lightly salted and left for a day; and if the weather isn't too hot, they'll remain good for two days.
220. WHEN FISH IS CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL, and a larger quantity is purchased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bear it should be potted, or pickled, or salted, and hung up; or it may be fried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water fish, having frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in strong salt and water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient size, it may be scalded in salt and water, and afterwards dried and dressed.
220. WHEN FISH IS CHEAP AND PLENTIFUL, and you buy more than you need right away, the extra should be potted, pickled, or salted and hung up. Alternatively, you can fry it so it can be used for stewing the next day. Freshwater fish often have a muddy smell and taste, so they should be soaked in strong saltwater after being thoroughly cleaned. If it's big enough, it can be scalded in saltwater and then dried and prepared.
221. FISH SHOULD BE PUT INTO COLD WATER, and set on the fire to do very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless the fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor should water, either hot or cold, be poured on to the fish, as it is liable to break the skin: if it should be necessary to add a little water whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at the side of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fish be ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. It should then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will become woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving, and a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent its losing its colour.
221. FISH SHOULD BE PLACED IN COLD WATER and put on the heat to cook very gently, or the outside will crack before the inside is done. Unless the fish is small, it should never be placed in warm water; nor should hot or cold water be poured onto the fish, as it can damage the skin. If you need to add a little water while the fish is cooking, it should be poured in gently at the side of the pot. You can lift the fish plate to check if the fish is ready, which you can tell by its easy separation from the bone. It should then be taken out of the water immediately, or it will become mushy. The fish plate should be placed sideways over the pot to keep warm for serving, and a clean cloth should be placed over the fish to prevent it from losing its color.
222. IN GARNISHING FISH, great attention is required, and plenty of parsley, horseradish, and lemon should be used. If fried parsley be used, it must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from the water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be taken up with a slice. When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe will be appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing.
222. WHEN GARNISHING FISH, it’s important to pay attention and use plenty of parsley, horseradish, and lemon. If you’re using fried parsley, it should be washed, picked, and soaked in fresh water. Once the lard or dripping is boiling, add the parsley directly from the water, and it will turn green and crispy right away, so take it out with a slotted spoon. When done well and served with a really good sauce, fish is often more appreciated than almost any other dish. In some cases, the liver and roe should be placed on the dish so they can be shared when serving; however, the proper way to serve and garnish each recipe will be included.
223. IF FISH IS TO BE FRIED OR BROILED, it must be dried in a nice soft cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brush it over with egg, and sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done a second time with the egg and bread, the fish will look so much the better. If required to be very nice, a sheet of white blotting-paper must be placed to receive it, that it may be free from all grease. It must also be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct. Butter gives a bad colour; lard and clarified dripping are most frequently used; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection. The fish should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be a sufficiency of this to cover it.
223. IF YOU'RE GOING TO FRY OR BROIL FISH, first dry it with a nice soft cloth after thoroughly cleaning and washing it. For frying, brush it with egg and sprinkle it with fine bread crumbs. If you brush it with egg and crumbs a second time, the fish will look even better. If you want it to be really nice, place a sheet of white blotting paper underneath to catch any grease. The fish should also have a beautiful color, and the crumbs should be clearly visible. Butter can darken the color; lard and clarified dripping are commonly used, but oil is the best choice if you can afford it. You should add the fish to the hot lard, making sure there's enough to cover it completely.
224. WHEN FISH IS BROILED, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a very clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet, to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a very clear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may not be scorched.
224. WHEN FISH IS GRILLED, it should be seasoned, coated in flour, and placed on a very clean grill. Once hot, the grill should be rubbed with a bit of fat to stop the fish from sticking. It needs to be cooked over a clear fire so that it doesn’t have a smoky flavor, and not too close to the heat so it doesn’t get burnt.
225. IN CHOOSING FISH, it is well to remember that it is possible it may be fresh, and yet not good. Under the head of each particular fish in this work, are appended rules for its choice and the months when it is in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to have the fish good; as if this important course in a dinner does not give satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well.
225. WHEN CHOOSING FISH, it's important to keep in mind that it might be fresh, but still not good. Each type of fish in this guide includes tips on how to select it and the months it's in season. Nothing matters more to a cook than having good fish; if this crucial dish in a meal doesn't please, it's rare for the whole meal to go well.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER VIII.
FISH.
[Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of Fish, inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one day, cause such a difference in its supply, that the same fish—a turbot for instance—which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings, will, to-morrow, be, in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost as many pounds. The average costs, therefore, which will be found appended to each recipe, must be understood as about the average price for the different kinds of fish, when the market is supplied upon an average, and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality.
It’s really hard to provide average prices for fish because just a few hours of bad weather at sea can drastically change the supply in just one day. For example, a turbot that you can buy today for six or seven shillings might be worth several pounds in the London markets the next day. Therefore, the average costs you’ll see listed with each recipe should be understood as the typical price for different kinds of fish when the market supply is normal and when the various types are a standard size and quality.
GENERAL RULE IN CHOOSING FISH.—A proof of freshness and goodness in most fishes, is their being covered with scales; for, if deficient in this respect, it is a sign of their being stale, or having been ill-used.]
GENERAL RULE IN CHOOSING FISH.—A sign of freshness and quality in most fish is that they have scales; if they lack this feature, it indicates that they are likely stale or have been mishandled.]
FRIED ANCHOVIES.
226. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoonful of oil, 1/2 a glass of white wine, sufficient flour to thicken; 12 anchovies.
226. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoon of oil, 1/2 a glass of white wine, enough flour to thicken; 12 anchovies.
Mode.—Mix the oil and wine together, with sufficient flour to make them into a thickish paste; cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip them in the paste, and fry of a nice brown colour.
Mode.—Combine the oil and wine, adding enough flour to create a thick paste; clean the anchovies, pat them dry, dip them in the paste, and fry until they reach a nice golden brown color.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 9d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost for this amount, 9p.
Seasonable all the year.
All year round.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
Enough for 2 people.
[Illustration: THE ANCHOVY.]
[Illustration: THE ANCHOVY.]
THE ANCHOVY.—In his book of "British Fishes," Mr. Yarrell states that "the anchovy is a common fish in the Mediterranean, from Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to the Greeks and Romans, by whom the liquor prepared from it, called garum, was in great estimation. Its extreme range is extended into the Black Sea. The fishing for them is carried on during the night, and lights are used with the nets. The anchovy is common on the coasts of Portugal, Spain, and France. It occurs, I have no doubt, at the Channel Islands, and has been taken on the Hampshire coast, and in the Bristol Channel." Other fish, of inferior quality, but resembling the real Gorgona anchovy, are frequently sold for it, and passed off as genuine.
THE ANCHOVY.—In his book "British Fishes," Mr. Yarrell states that "the anchovy is a common fish in the Mediterranean, from Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to the Greeks and Romans, who highly valued the sauce made from it, called garum. Its range extends into the Black Sea. Fishing for them takes place at night, using lights with the nets. The anchovy is also common along the coasts of Portugal, Spain, and France. I am sure it can be found around the Channel Islands, and it has been caught on the Hampshire coast and in the Bristol Channel." Other fish, which are of lower quality but resemble the true Gorgona anchovy, are often sold as it and passed off as genuine.
ANCHOVY BUTTER OR PASTE.
227. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen anchovies, 1/2 lb. of fresh butter.
227. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen anchovies, 1/2 lb. of fresh butter.
Mode.—Wash the anchovies thoroughly; bone and dry them, and pound them in a mortar to a paste. Mix the butter gradually with them, and rub the whole through a sieve. Put it by in small pots for use, and carefully exclude the air with a bladder, as it soon changes the colour of anchovies, besides spoiling them.
Mode.—Rinse the anchovies well; remove the bones and dry them, then mash them in a mortar until they turn into a paste. Gradually mix in the butter, then strain everything through a sieve. Store it in small jars for later use, and make sure to keep the air out with a bladder, as exposure will quickly change the color of the anchovies and ruin them.
Average cost for this quantity, 2s.
Average cost for this amount, 2s.
POTTED ANCHOVIES.
POTTED ANCHOVIES are made in the same way, by adding pounded mace, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste.
POTTED ANCHOVIES are prepared in the same way, by mixing in ground mace, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg to your preference.
ANCHOVY TOAST.
228. INGREDIENTS.—Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted very savoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste, No. 227. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added to the paste before laying it on the toast.
228. INGREDIENTS.—Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if you want them really flavorful, fry them in clarified butter, and spread the paste from No. 227 on top. You can mix in some prepared mustard or a pinch of cayenne pepper into the paste before spreading it on the toast.
ANCHOVY PASTE.—"When some delicate zest," says a work just issued on the adulterations of trade, "is required to make the plain English breakfast more palatable, many people are in the habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies. These fish are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle, carefully corked down, and surrounded by a red-looking liquor, resembling in appearance diluted clay. The price is moderate, one shilling only being demanded for the luxury. When these anchovies are what is termed potted, it implies that the fish have been pounded into the consistency of a paste, and then placed in flat pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum. This paste is usually eaten spread upon toast, and is said to form an excellent bonne bouche, which enables gentlemen at wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto. Unfortunately, in six cases out of ten, the only portion of these preserved delicacies, that contains anything indicative of anchovies, is the paper label pasted on the bottle or pot, on which the word itself is printed…. All the samples of anchovy paste, analyzed by different medical men, have been found to be highly and vividly coloured with very large quantities of bole Armenian." The anchovy itself, when imported, is of a dark dead colour, and it is to make it a bright "handsome-looking sauce" that this red earth is used.
ANCHOVY PASTE.—"When some subtle flavor," says a recently released work on food adulteration, "is needed to make a plain English breakfast more enjoyable, many people tend to indulge in what they believe to be anchovies. These fish are preserved in a type of jar, carefully sealed, and submerged in a reddish liquid that looks like diluted clay. The price is reasonable, costing just one shilling for this luxury. When these anchovies are referred to as potted, it means the fish have been ground into a paste and then placed in flat pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomade. This paste is usually spread on toast and is said to make an excellent bonne bouche, allowing gentlemen at wine parties to enjoy their port with even greater pleasure. Unfortunately, in six out of ten cases, the only part of these preserved treats that actually contains anything resembling anchovies is the label affixed to the jar or pot, where the word itself is printed.... All the samples of anchovy paste analyzed by different medical professionals have been found to be highly and vividly colored with large amounts of Armenian bole." The anchovy itself, when imported, is a dull dark color, and this red earth is added to create a bright "attractive sauce."
BARBEL.
229. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2 barbels, according to size.
229. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of port wine, a pinch of salt, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a bunch of fresh herbs, nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2 barbel fish, depending on size.
Mode—Boil the barbels in salt and water till done; pour off some of the water, and, to the remainder, put the ingredients mentioned above. Simmer gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and strain. Put in the fish; heat it gradually; but do not let it boil, or it will be broken.
Mode—Boil the barbels in salt and water until cooked; drain some of the water, and add the ingredients mentioned above to the rest. Let it simmer gently for about half an hour or a little longer, then strain. Add the fish; heat it slowly, but do not allow it to boil, or it will fall apart.
Time.—Altogether 1 hour. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Time.—Total 1 hour. Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from September to November.
Available from September to November.
[Illustration: THE BARBEL.]
[Illustration: THE BARBELL.]
THE BARBEL,—This fish takes its name from the barbs or wattels at its mouth; and, in England, is esteemed as one of the worst of the fresh-water fish. It was, however, formerly, if not now, a favourite with the Jews, excellent cookers of fish. Others would boil with it a piece of bacon, that it might have a relish. It is to be met with from two to three or four feet long, and is said to live to a great age. From Putney upwards, in the Thames, some are found of large size; but they are valued only as affording sport to the brethren of the angle.
THE BARBEL—This fish gets its name from the barbs or wattles at its mouth, and in England, it's considered one of the least desirable freshwater fish. However, it used to be, and perhaps still is, a favorite among the Jews, who are excellent at cooking fish. Others would boil a piece of bacon with it to add flavor. They can range from two to three or even four feet long and are said to live for a long time. In the Thames, from Putney upwards, you can find some that are quite large, but they are only valued for the sport they provide to anglers.
BRILL.
230. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little vinegar.
230. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water; a bit of vinegar.
Mode.—Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with a little lemon-juice, to preserve its whiteness. Set the fish in sufficient cold water to cover it; throw in salt, in the above proportions, and a little vinegar, and bring it gradually to boil; simmer very gently till the fish is done, which will be in about 10 minutes; but the time for boiling, of course, depends entirely on the size of the fish. Serve it on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, parsley, horseradish, and a little lobster coral sprinkled over the fish. Send lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table with it.
Mode.—Clean the brill, remove the fins, and rub it with a bit of lemon juice to keep it white. Place the fish in enough cold water to cover it; add salt as mentioned above and a little vinegar, then gradually bring it to a boil; let it simmer gently until the fish is cooked, which will take about 10 minutes, but the cooking time will vary depending on the size of the fish. Serve it on a warm napkin and garnish with sliced lemon, parsley, horseradish, and a sprinkle of lobster coral on top of the fish. Serve lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter alongside it.
Time.—After the water boils, a small brill, 10 minutes; a large brill, 15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—After the water boils, cook a small brill for 10 minutes; a large brill for 15 to 20 minutes.
Average cost, from 4s. to 8s.
Average cost, from 4 shillings to 8 shillings.
Seasonable from August to April.
Available from August to April.
[Illustration: THE BRILL.]
[Illustration: THE BRILL.]
THE BRILL.—This fish resembles the sole, but is broader, and when large, is esteemed by many in a scarcely less degree than the turbot, whilst it is much cheaper. It is a fine fish, and is abundant in the London market.
THE BRILL.—This fish looks like sole but is wider, and when it's big, many people think it's almost as good as turbot, even though it's much cheaper. It's a great fish and is readily available in the London market.
TO CHOOSE BRILL.—The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be of a yellowish tint, and should be chosen on account of its thickness. If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good.
TO CHOOSE BRILL.—The flesh of this fish, similar to that of turbot, should have a yellowish hue and should be selected for its thickness. If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good.
CODFISH.
231. Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quite sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually helped, because, when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. The latter, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying; or it may be salted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when boiled quite fresh, is watery; salting a little, renders it firmer.
231. You can boil a whole cod, but a large head and shoulders are enough for a serving and include all the parts that are typically served, because when the thick part is cooked, the tail becomes bland and overcooked. The tail, sliced up, makes a great dish for frying, or you can salt it and serve it with egg sauce and parsnips. Freshly boiled cod tends to be watery; salting it a bit makes it firmer.
[Illustration: THE COD.]
[Illustration: THE COD.]
THE COD TRIBE.—The Jugular, characterized by bony gills, and ventral fins before the pectoral ones, commences the second of the Linnaean orders of fishes, and is a numerous tribe, inhabiting only the depths of the ocean, and seldom visiting the fresh waters. They have a smooth head, and the gill membrane has seven rays. The body is oblong, and covered with deciduous scales. The fins are all inclosed in skin, whilst their rays are unarmed. The ventral fins are slender, and terminate in a point. Their habits are gregarious, and they feed on smaller fish and other marine animals.
THE COD TRIBE.—The Jugular, identified by bony gills and ventral fins located before the pectoral fins, starts the second of the Linnaean orders of fish. This is a large group that lives only in the depths of the ocean and rarely comes into freshwater. They have smooth heads, and the gill membrane features seven rays. Their bodies are elongated and covered in shedding scales. All the fins are covered in skin, while their rays remain unarmed. The ventral fins are slender and end in a point. They are social creatures and feed on smaller fish and other marine animals.
COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.
232. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient water to cover the fish; 5 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.
232. INGREDIENTS.—Enough water to fully submerge the fish; 5 oz. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the thick part and inside of the fish, 1 or 2 hours before dressing it, as this very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring it in at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in the above proportion, and bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Take it out and drain it; serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, horseradish, the roe and liver. (See Coloured Plate C.)
Method.—Thoroughly clean the fish and rub a bit of salt on the thick part and inside the fish, 1 or 2 hours before cooking it, as this greatly enhances the flavor. Place it in a fish kettle with enough cold water to cover it. Be careful not to pour the water directly onto the fish, as it might break. Keep the water at a gentle simmer. If the water starts to boil away, add a little by pouring it in from the side of the kettle, not on the fish. Add salt as mentioned above, and gradually bring it to a boil. Skim carefully, move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently until it's cooked through. Remove it and drain; serve it on a hot napkin, garnished with sliced lemon, horseradish, and the roe and liver. (See Coloured Plate C.)
Time.—According to size, 1/2 an hour, more or less. Average cost, from 3s. to 6s.
Time.—Approximately 30 minutes, give or take. Average cost, between 3s. and 6s.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Enough for 6 or 8 people.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
Note.—Oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served with this.
Note.—Oyster sauce and regular melted butter should be served with this.
TO CHOOSE COD.—The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump and round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and when the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts about the head lose their delicate flavour, after the fish has been twenty-four hours out of the water. The great point by which the cod should be judged is the firmness of its flesh; and, although the cod is not firm when it is alive, its quality may be arrived at by pressing the finger into the flesh. If this rises immediately, the fish is good; if not, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness is, if the fish, when it is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the silver side of a round of beef. When this is the case, the flesh will be firm when cooked. Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of freshness, though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibiting signs of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so strongly recommended by many cookery-books. This appearance is generally caused by the fish having been knocked about at sea, in the well-boats, in which they are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market.
TO CHOOSE COD.—Select cod for your meal when it’s plump and rounded near the tail, when the area behind the head is deep, and when the sides look wavy as if they have ribs. The soft parts around the head lose their delicate flavor after the fish has been out of the water for twenty-four hours. The main thing to consider when judging cod is the firmness of its flesh; while the fish is not firm when alive, you can check its quality by pressing your finger into the flesh. If it springs back immediately, the fish is fresh; if not, it’s stale. Another indicator of freshness is if the fish shows a bronze color when cut, similar to the silver side of a round of beef. In this case, the flesh will be firm when cooked. Rigidity in cod or any other fish is a reliable sign of freshness, though not always of quality. Sometimes, cod that appears a bit battered can taste much better than those with bright red gills that many cookbooks recommend. This rough appearance usually comes from the fish being tossed around at sea in the well-boats that transport them from the fishing grounds to the market.
SALT COD, COMMONLY CALLED "SALT-FISH."
233. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient water to cover the fish.
233. INGREDIENTS.—Enough water to cover the fish.
Mode.—Wash the fish, and lay it all night in water, with a 1/4 pint of vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, take it out, see that it is perfectly clean, and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it. Heat it gradually, but do not let it boil much, or the fish will be hard. Skim well, and when done, drain the fish and put it on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings.
Method.—Clean the fish and soak it overnight in water mixed with 1/4 pint of vinegar. Once thoroughly soaked, remove it, ensure it's completely clean, and place it in a fish kettle with enough cold water to cover it. Heat it gradually, but be careful not to let it boil too much, or the fish will become tough. Skim regularly, and when it's cooked, drain the fish and serve it on a napkin decorated with hard-boiled eggs sliced into rings.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 6p. per lb.
Seasonable in the spring.
On-trend in the spring.
Sufficient for each person, 1/4 lb.
Sufficient for each person, 0.25 lb.
Note.—Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is an especial dish on Ash Wednesday.
Note.—Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is a special dish on Ash Wednesday.
PRESERVING COD.—Immediately as the cod are caught, their heads are cut off. They are then opened, cleaned, and salted, when they are stowed away in the hold of the vessel, in beds of five or six yards square, head to tail, with a layer of salt to each layer of fish. When they have lain in this state three or four days, in order that the water may drain from them, they are shifted into a different part of the vessel, and again salted. Here they remain till the vessel is loaded, when they are sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the greater convenience of carriage.
PRESERVING COD.—As soon as the cod are caught, their heads are removed. They are then opened, cleaned, and salted before being stored in the hold of the ship in piles measuring five or six yards square, positioned head to tail, with a layer of salt between each layer of fish. After sitting like this for three or four days to allow the water to drain, they are moved to another area of the ship and salted again. They stay here until the ship is fully loaded, at which point they are sometimes cut into thick pieces and packed into barrels for easier transport.
COD SOUNDS.
Should be well soaked in salt and water, and thoroughly washed before dressing them. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either be broiled, fried, or boiled: if they are boiled, mix a little milk with the water.
They should be soaked in saltwater and thoroughly washed before preparing them. They're considered a delicious treat and can be broiled, fried, or boiled. If boiling, add a little milk to the water.
COD SOUNDS, EN POULE.
234. INGREDIENTS.—For forcemeat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 chopped anchovies, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs; seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste; 4 cod sounds.
234. INGREDIENTS.—For forcemeat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 chopped anchovies, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs; seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste; 4 cod sounds.
Mode.—Make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well together. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 1/2 an hour; take them out and let them cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, roll them up in a nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with lard, dredge with flour, and cook them gently before the fire in a Dutch oven.
Mode.—Prepare the filling by mixing the ingredients thoroughly. Rinse the sounds, and boil them in a mixture of milk and water for 30 minutes; remove them and let them cool. Spread a layer of filling over each, roll them up neatly, and secure with skewers. Coat with lard, sprinkle with flour, and cook them gently over the fire in a Dutch oven.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 6p per lb.
Seasonable from November to March. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Available from November to March. Enough for 4 people.
THE SOUNDS IN CODFISH.—These are the air or swimming bladders, by means of which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in the water. In the Newfoundland fishery they are taken out previous to incipient putrefaction, washed from their slime and salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured and packed up in barrels; whilst, from the livers, considerable quantities of oil are extracted, this oil having been found possessed of the most nourishing properties, and particularly beneficial in cases of pulmonary affections.
THE SOUNDS IN CODFISH.—These are the air or swim bladders that allow fish to rise or sink in the water. In the Newfoundland fishery, they are removed before they start to decay, cleaned of their slime, and salted for export. The tongues are also cured and packaged in barrels, while substantial amounts of oil are extracted from the livers; this oil is known to be very nutritious and especially helpful for respiratory issues.
COD PIE.
(Economical.)
Affordable
I.
235. INGREDIENTS.—Any remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, sufficient melted butter to moisten it; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish.
235. INGREDIENTS.—Any leftover cold cod, 12 oysters, enough melted butter to moisten it; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish.
Mode.—Flake the fish from the bone, and carefully take away all the skin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters (or oyster sauce, if there is any left), and cover with mashed potatoes. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and send to table of a nice brown colour.
Mode.—Remove the fish from the bone and carefully take off all the skin. Place it in a pie dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters (or oyster sauce, if there's any left), and top with mashed potatoes. Bake for 30 minutes, until it turns a nice brown color.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Seasonable from November to March.
In season from November to March.
II.
236. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of cod; pepper and salt to taste; 1/2 a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 107, a paste crust (see Pastry). For sauce, 1 tablespoonful of stock, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, thickening of flour or butter; lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste; 12 oysters.
236. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of cod; salt and pepper to taste; 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 1 large piece of pounded mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 107, a paste crust (see Pastry). For the sauce, 1 tablespoon of stock, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, thickening of flour or butter; finely chopped lemon peel to taste; 12 oysters.
Mode.—Lay the cod in salt for 4 hours, then wash it and place it in a dish; season, and add the butter and stock; cover with the crust, and bake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now make the sauce, by mixing the ingredients named above; give it one boil, and pour it into the pie by a hole made at the top of the crust, which can easily be covered by a small piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape—such as a leaf, or otherwise.
Method.—Salt the cod for 4 hours, then rinse it and put it in a dish; season it, then add the butter and stock; cover with the crust, and bake for about 1 hour, or a bit longer. Next, prepare the sauce by mixing the ingredients listed above; bring it to a boil, and pour it into the pie through a hole in the top of the crust, which can easily be covered by a small piece of pastry cut into a fun shape—like a leaf, or something similar.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, with fresh fish, 2s. 6d.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, with fresh fish, £2.50.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Good for 6 people.
Note.—The remains of cold fish may be used for this pie.
Note.—You can use leftover cold fish for this pie.
CURRIED COD.
237. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of large cod, or the remains of any cold fish; 3 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, a teacupful of white stock, thickening of butter and flour, 1 small teaspoonful of curry-powder, 1/4 pint of cream, salt and cayenne to taste.
237. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of large cod, or leftovers from any cold fish; 3 oz. of butter, 1 sliced onion, a teacup of white stock, a thickener made from butter and flour, 1 small teaspoon of curry powder, 1/4 pint of cream, salt, and cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Flake the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour with the butter and onions; put this in a stewpan, add the stock and thickening, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder into the cream; put it, with the seasoning, to the other ingredients; give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Flake the fish, and fry it until it's a nice brown color with the butter and onions; transfer this to a saucepan, add the stock and thickening, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Mix the curry powder into the cream; add it, along with the seasoning, to the other ingredients; bring it to a boil, and serve.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, with fresh fish, 3s.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, with fresh fish, 3 shillings.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
THE FOOD OF THE COD.—This chiefly consists of the smaller species of the scaly tribes, shell-fish, crabs, and worms. Their voracity is very great, and they will bite at any small body they see moved by the water, even stones and pebbles, which are frequently found in their stomachs. They sometimes attain a great size, but their usual weight is from 14 to 40 lbs.
THE FOOD OF THE COD.—This mainly includes smaller types of fish, shellfish, crabs, and worms. They are extremely greedy and will bite at anything small that moves in the water, including stones and pebbles, which are often found in their stomachs. They can grow quite large, but their typical weight ranges from 14 to 40 lbs.
COD A LA CREME.
238. INGREDIENTS.—1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, 1 chopped shalot, a little minced parsley, 1/4 teacupful of white stock, 1/4 pint of milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
238. INGREDIENTS.—1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, 1 chopped shallot, a little minced parsley, 1/4 cup of white stock, 1/4 pint of milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon juice to taste, 1/4 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Boil the cod, and while hot, break it into flakes; put the butter, shalot, parsley, and stock into a stewpan, and let them boil for 5 minutes. Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, and pour to it the milk or cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and sugar, and, when liked, a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in the sauce to warm gradually, but do not let it boil. Serve in a dish garnished with croûtons.
Mode.—Boil the cod, and while it's hot, break it into flakes. Put the butter, shallot, parsley, and stock into a saucepan, and let them boil for 5 minutes. Stir in enough flour to thicken it, and then pour in the milk or cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, then add the cayenne and sugar, and, if you like, a little lemon juice. Add the fish to the sauce to warm it up gradually, but don’t let it boil. Serve in a dish garnished with croutons.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour. Average cost, with cream, 2s.
Time.—A little over 30 minutes. Average cost, with cream, 2 shillings.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Enough for 3 people.
Note.—The remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well for this dish.
Note.—The leftover fish from the day before works great for this dish.
COD A LA BECHAMEL.
239. INGREDIENTS.—Any remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls of béchamel (see Sauces), 2 oz. butter; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt; fried bread, a few bread crumbs.
239. INGREDIENTS.—Any leftover cold cod, 4 tablespoons of béchamel (see Sauces), 2 oz. of butter; season to taste with pepper and salt; fried bread, a few breadcrumbs.
Mode.—Flake the cod carefully, leaving out all skin and bone; put the béchamel in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it over the fire till the latter is melted; add seasoning, put in the fish, and mix it well with the sauce. Make a border of fried bread round the dish, lay in the fish, sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and baste with butter. Brown either before the fire or with a salamander, and garnish with toasted bread cut in fanciful shapes.
Method.—Carefully flake the cod, removing all skin and bones; place the béchamel in a saucepan with the butter and stir it over heat until the butter is melted; add seasoning, then incorporate the fish and mix it well with the sauce. Create a border of fried bread around the dish, add the fish, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and baste with butter. Brown it either in front of the fire or with a salamander, and garnish with toasted bread cut into fun shapes.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the fish, 6d.
Average cost, not including the fish, 6d.
THE HABITAT OF THE COD.—This fish is found only in the seas of the northern parts of the world, between the latitudes of 45° and 66°. Its great rendezvous are the sandbanks of Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These places are its favourite resorts; for there it is able to obtain great quantities of worms, a food peculiarly grateful to it. Another cause of its attachment to these places has been said to be on account of the vicinity to the Polar seas, where it returns to spawn. Few are taken north of Iceland, and the shoals never reach so far south as the Straits of Gibraltar. Many are taken on the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and off the Orkneys, which, prior to the discovery of Newfoundland, formed one of the principal fisheries. The London market is supplied by those taken between the Dogger Bank, the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the east coast of England.
THE HABITAT OF THE COD.—This fish is found only in the seas of the northern parts of the world, between the latitudes of 45° and 66°. Its main gathering spots are the sandbanks of Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These locations are its favorite haunts because there it can find plenty of worms, which are particularly appealing to it. Another reason it sticks to these areas is the proximity to the Polar seas, where it returns to spawn. Few are caught north of Iceland, and the shoals never reach as far south as the Straits of Gibraltar. Many are caught off the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and around the Orkneys, which, before the discovery of Newfoundland, were one of the main fishing grounds. The London market is supplied by those caught between the Dogger Bank, the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the east coast of England.
COD A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
240. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of cod, 1/4 lb. of butter, a little chopped shalot and parsley; pepper to taste, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, or rather less, when the flavour is not liked; the juice of 1/4 lemon.
240. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of cod, 1/4 lb. of butter, a bit of chopped shallot and parsley; pepper to taste, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, or a little less if you don't like the flavor; the juice of 1/4 lemon.
Mode.—Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or, what is still better, flake it from the bone, and take off the skin. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley, shalot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the butter gradually, and be very careful that it does not become like oil. When all is well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the lemon-juice, and serve.
Mode.—Boil the cod, and either leave it whole or, even better, flake it from the bone and remove the skin. Place it in a saucepan with the butter, parsley, shallot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the butter slowly, making sure it doesn't turn oily. Once everything is well mixed and heated through, add the lemon juice and serve.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d.; with remains of cold fish, 5d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, £0.12.50; with leftover cold fish, £0.25.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Note.—Cod that has been left will do for this.
Note.—Cod that has been left over will work for this.
THE SEASON FOR FISHING COD.—The best season for catching cod is from the beginning of February to the end of April; and although each fisherman engaged in taking them, catches no more than one at a time, an expert hand will sometimes take four hundred in a day. The employment is excessively fatiguing, from the weight of the fish as well as from the coldness of the climate.
THE SEASON FOR FISHING COD.—The best time to catch cod is from the start of February to the end of April; and even though each fisherman can only catch one at a time, an experienced one can sometimes reel in four hundred in a day. This work is incredibly tiring, both because of the weight of the fish and the cold weather.
COD A L'ITALIENNE.
241. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shalot, 1 slice of ham minced very fine, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; when liked, 1/2 teacupful of cream; salt to taste; a few drops of garlic vinegar, a little lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
241. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shallot, 1 slice of ham minced very finely, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; optionally, 1/2 teacup of cream; salt to taste; a few drops of garlic vinegar, a little lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Chop the shalots, mince the ham very fine, pour on the stock, and simmer for 15 minutes. If the colour should not be good, add cream in the above proportion, and strain it through a fine sieve; season it, and put in the vinegar, lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil the cod, take out the middle bone, and skin it; put it on the dish without breaking, and pour the sauce over it.
Mode.—Chop the shallots, finely mince the ham, add the stock, and let it simmer for 15 minutes. If the color isn’t right, add cream as described above and strain it through a fine sieve; season it, and mix in the vinegar, lemon juice, and sugar. Now boil the cod, remove the center bone, and skin it; place it on the dish without breaking it, and pour the sauce over it.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 3s. 6d., with fresh fish.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, £0.17, with fresh fish.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Suitable for 4 people.
THE FECUNDITY OF THE COD.—In our preceding remarks on the natural history of fishes, we have spoken of the amazing fruitfulness of this fish; but in this we see one more instance of the wise provision which Nature has made for supplying the wants of man. So extensive has been the consumption of this fish, that it is surprising that it has not long ago become extinct; which would certainly have been the case, had it not been for its wonderful powers of reproduction. "So early as 1368," says Dr. Cloquet, "the inhabitants of Amsterdam had dispatched fishermen to the coast of Sweden; and in the first quarter of 1792, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels went out to the cod-fisheries. Every year, however, upwards of 10,000 vessels, of all nations, are employed in this trade, and bring into the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted and dried cod. If we add to this immense number, the havoc made among the legions of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great deep, and take into account the destruction to which the young are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas, besides the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident, it becomes a miracle to find that such mighty multitudes of them are still in existence, and ready to continue the exhaustless supply. Yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that the female can every year give birth to more than 9,000,000 at a time."
THE FECUNDITY OF THE COD.—In our previous discussions about the natural history of fish, we talked about the incredible abundance of this species; but this is just another example of the clever way Nature ensures that human needs are met. The amount of this fish consumed is so high that it's surprising it hasn't gone extinct already; it likely would have if it weren't for its amazing reproductive abilities. "As early as 1368," says Dr. Cloquet, "the people of Amsterdam sent fishermen to the coast of Sweden; and in the first quarter of 1792, from the ports of France alone, 210 vessels headed out for cod fishing. Every year, though, over 10,000 vessels from various countries are involved in this trade, bringing in more than 40,000,000 salted and dried cod into the marketplace. If we consider this huge number alongside the devastation caused to the large populations of cod by bigger fish in the ocean, along with the threats faced by the young cod from sea birds and other marine creatures, not to mention the countless eggs lost to accidents, it seems miraculous that so many of them are still around and ready to provide an endless supply. Yet it stops being surprising when we remember that a female can give birth to more than 9,000,000 eggs each year."
BAKED CARP.
242. INGREDIENTS—1 carp, forcemeat, bread crumbs, 1 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 onions sliced, 1 bay-leaf, a faggot of sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juice of 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
242. INGREDIENTS—1 carp, stuffing, bread crumbs, 1 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 sliced onions, 1 bay leaf, a bundle of fresh herbs, flour for thickening, the juice of 1 lemon; cayenne and salt to taste; 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Stuff the carp with a delicate forcemeat, after thoroughly cleansing it, and sew it up to prevent the stuffing from falling out. Rub it over with an egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, lay it in a deep earthen dish, and drop the butter, oiled, over the bread crumbs. Add the stock, onions, bay-leaf, herbs, wine, and anchovies, and bake for 1 hour. Put 1 oz. of butter into a stewpan, melt it, and dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; put in the strained liquor from the carp, stir frequently, and when it has boiled, add the lemon-juice and seasoning. Serve the carp on a dish garnished with parsley and cut lemon, and the sauce in a boat.
Method.—Clean the carp thoroughly and stuff it with a delicate filling, then sew it up to keep the stuffing from falling out. Coat it with an egg and sprinkle with breadcrumbs, then place it in a deep baking dish. Drizzle melted butter over the breadcrumbs. Add the stock, onions, bay leaf, herbs, wine, and anchovies, then bake for 1 hour. In a saucepan, melt 1 oz. of butter and mix in enough flour to absorb it; then add the strained liquid from the carp, stirring frequently. Once it boils, add lemon juice and seasoning. Serve the carp on a platter garnished with parsley and lemon slices, with the sauce on the side.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost. Seldom bought.
Duration.—1-1/4 hours. Average price. Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
Sufficient for 1 or 2 persons.
Good for 1 or 2 people.
[Illustration: THE CARP.]
[Illustration: THE CARP.]
THE CARP.—This species of fish inhabit the fresh waters, where they feed on worms, insects, aquatic plants, small fish, clay, or mould. Some of them are migratory. They have very small mouths and no teeth, and the gill membrane has three rays. The body is smooth, and generally whitish. The carp both grows and increases very fast, and is accounted the most valuable of all fish for the stocking of ponds. It has been pronounced the queen of river-fish, and was first introduced to this country about three hundred years ago. Of its sound, or air-bladder, a kind of glue is made, and a green paint of its gall.
THE CARP.—This type of fish lives in freshwater, where they eat worms, insects, aquatic plants, small fish, clay, or mud. Some of them migrate. They have very small mouths and no teeth, and their gill membrane has three rays. The body is smooth and usually whitish. Carp grow quickly and are considered the most valuable fish for stocking ponds. They have been called the queen of river fish and were first brought to this country around three hundred years ago. A type of glue is made from their sound or air-bladder, and a green paint comes from their gall.
STEWED CARP.
243. INGREDIENTS.—1 carp, salt, stock No. 105, 2 onions, 6 cloves, 12 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 1/4 pint of port wine, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a faggot of savoury herbs.
243. INGREDIENTS.—1 carp, salt, stock No. 105, 2 onions, 6 cloves, 12 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 1/4 pint of port wine, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a bundle of savory herbs.
Mode.—Scale the fish, clean it nicely, and, if very large, divide it; lay it in the stewpan, after having rubbed a little salt on it, and put in sufficient stock to cover it; add the herbs, onions, and spices, and stew gently for 1 hour, or rather more, should it be very large. Dish up the fish with great care, strain the liquor, and add to it the port wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; give one boil, pour it over the fish, and serve.
Method.—Scale the fish, clean it well, and if it’s very large, cut it into pieces; place it in the stewpan after rubbing a little salt on it, and add enough stock to cover it. Toss in the herbs, onions, and spices, then simmer gently for about 1 hour, or longer if the fish is very large. Serve the fish carefully, strain the broth, and mix in the port wine, lemon juice, and cayenne; bring it to a boil, pour it over the fish, and serve.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost. Seldom bought.
Duration.—1.25 hours. Average cost. Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from March to October.
Seasonal from March to October.
Sufficient for 1 or 2 persons.
Enough for 1 or 2 people.
Note.—This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley and butter. Chub and Char may be cooked in the same manner as the above, as also Dace and Roach.
Note.—This fish can be boiled simply and served with parsley and butter. Chub and Char can be cooked the same way, as can Dace and Roach.
THE AGE OF CARP.—This fish has been found to live 150 years. The pond in the garden of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, contained one that had lived there 70 years, and Gesner mentions an instance of one 100 years old. They are, besides, capable of being tamed. Dr. Smith, in his "Tour on the Continent," says, in reference to the prince of Condé's seat at Chantilly, "The most pleasing things about it were the immense shoals of very large carp, silvered over with age, like silver-fish, and perfectly tame; so that, when any passengers approached their watery habitation, they used to come to the shore in such numbers as to heave each other out of the water, begging for bread, of which a quantity was always kept at hand, on purpose to feed them. They would even allow themselves to be handled."
THE AGE OF CARP.—This fish can live up to 150 years. The pond in the garden of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, had one that lived there for 70 years, and Gesner mentions one that was 100 years old. They can also be tamed. Dr. Smith, in his "Tour on the Continent," says about the prince of Condé's estate at Chantilly, "The most delightful aspect of it was the huge schools of very large carp, aged and shimmering like silver, and completely tame; so that when any visitors approached their watery home, they would come to the shore in such numbers that they splashed each other out of the water, begging for bread, of which a supply was always kept handy to feed them. They would even let themselves be touched."
[Illustration: THE CHUB.]
[Illustration: THE CHUB.]
[Illustration: THE CHAR.]
[Illustration: THE CHAR.]
THE CHUB.—This fish takes its name from its head, not only in England, but in other countries. It is a river-fish, and resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. Its flesh is not in much esteem, being coarse, and, when out of season, full of small hairy bones. The head and throat are the best parts. The roe is also good.
THE CHUB.—This fish gets its name from its head, not just in England, but in other countries as well. It’s a river fish and looks similar to the carp, but is a bit longer. Its flesh isn't highly regarded, as it’s coarse and, when out of season, has a lot of small, hairy bones. The head and throat are considered the best parts. The roe is also good.
THE CHAR.—This is one of the most delicious of fish, being esteemed by some superior to the salmon. It is an inhabitant of the deep lakes of mountainous countries. Its flesh is rich and red, and full of fat. The largest and best kind is found in the lakes of Westmoreland, and, as it is considered a rarity, it is often potted and preserved.
THE CHAR.—This is one of the most delicious fish, with some considering it even better than salmon. It lives in the deep lakes of mountainous regions. Its flesh is rich and red, and quite fatty. The largest and best variety is found in the lakes of Westmoreland, and since it's viewed as a rarity, it is often canned and preserved.
THE DACE, OR DARE.—This fish is gregarious, and is seldom above ten inches long; although, according to Linnaeus, it grows a foot and a half in length. Its haunts are in deep water, near piles of bridges, where the stream is gentle, over gravelly, sandy, or clayey bottoms; deep holes that are shaded, water-lily leaves, and under the foam caused by an eddy. In the warm months they are to be found in shoals on the shallows near to streams. They are in season about the end of April, and gradually improve till February, when they attain their highest condition. In that month, when just taken, scotched (crimped), and broiled, they are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring.
THE DACE, OR DARE.—This fish is social and usually grows to around ten inches long, although Linnaeus noted it can reach a foot and a half. They prefer deep water near bridge piles, where the current is gentle, over gravelly, sandy, or clay bottoms; in shaded deep holes, under water-lily leaves, and in the foamy areas created by eddies. During the warmer months, they can be found in groups in the shallow waters close to streams. They’re in season around the end of April and gradually get better until February, when they’re at their peak condition. In that month, when freshly caught, crimped, and grilled, they’re said to taste better than fresh herring.
THE ROACH.—This fish is found throughout Europe, and the western parts of Asia, in deep still rivers, of which it is an inhabitant. It is rarely more than a pound and a half in weight, and is in season from September till March. It is plentiful in England, and the finest are caught in the Thames. The proverb, "as sound as a roach," is derived from the French name of this fish being roche, which also means rock.
THE ROACH.—This fish is found all across Europe and the western parts of Asia, living in deep, calm rivers. It usually weighs no more than a pound and a half and is in season from September to March. It's common in England, with the best specimens caught in the Thames. The saying, "as sound as a roach," comes from the French name for this fish, which is roche and also means rock.
[Illustration: THE DACE.]
[Illustration: THE DACE.]
[Illustration: THE ROACH.]
[Illustration: THE ROACH.]
TO DRESS CRAB.
244. INGREDIENTS.—1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 ditto of oil; salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste.
244. INGREDIENTS.—1 crab, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of oil; salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste.
Mode.—Empty the shells, and thoroughly mix the meat with the above ingredients, and put it in the large shell. Garnish with slices of cut lemon and parsley. The quantity of oil may be increased when it is much liked. (See Coloured Plate I.)
Mode.—Empty the shells and mix the meat thoroughly with the ingredients mentioned above, then place it in the large shell. Garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. You can add more oil if you prefer it that way. (See Coloured Plate I.)
Average cost, from 10d. to 2s.
Average cost, from 10 pence to 2 shillings.
Seasonable all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July.
Good all year round; but not as great in May, June, and July.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Good for 3 people.
TO CHOOSE CRAB.—The middle-sized crab is the best; and the crab, like the lobster, should be judged by its weight; for if light, it is watery.
TO CHOOSE CRAB.—The medium-sized crab is the best; and like the lobster, the crab should be assessed by its weight; because if it's light, it will be watery.
HOT CRAB.
245. INGREDIENTS.—1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
245. INGREDIENTS.—1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons of vinegar.
Mode.—After having boiled the crab, pick the meat out from the shells, and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. Cut up the butter in small pieces, and add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Mix altogether, put the whole in the large shell, and brown before the fire or with a salamander.
Mode.—After boiling the crab, remove the meat from the shells and mix it with the nutmeg and seasonings. Cut the butter into small pieces, then add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Combine everything, place it all in the large shell, and brown it over the fire or with a salamander.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, from 10d. to 2s.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, from 10p to 2s.
Seasonable all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July.
Good all year round; but not as great in May, June, and July.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Good for 3 people.
[Illustration: THE CRAB.]
[Illustration: THE CRAB.]
THE CRAB TRIBE.—The whole of this tribe of animals have the
body covered with a hard and strong shell, and they live chiefly
in the sea. Some, however, inhabit fresh waters, and a few live
upon land. They feed variously, on aquatic or marine plants,
small fish, molluscae, or dead bodies. The black-clawed
species is found on the rocky coasts of both Europe and India,
and is the same that is introduced to our tables, being much
more highly esteemed as a food than many others of the tribe.
The most remarkable feature in their history, is the changing of
their shells, and the reproduction of their broken claws. The
former occurs once a year, usually between Christmas and Easter,
when the crabs retire to cavities in the rocks, or conceal
themselves under great stones. Fishermen say that they will live
confined in a pot or basket for several months together, without
any other food than what is collected from the sea-water; and
that, even in this situation, they will not decrease in weight.
The hermit crab is another of the species, and has the
peculiarity of taking possession of the deserted shell of some
other animal, as it has none of its own. This circumstance was
known to the ancients, and is alluded to in the following lines
from Oppian:—
The hermit fish, unarm'd by Nature, left
Helpless and weak, grow strong by harmless theft.
Fearful they stroll, and look with panting wish
For the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish;
Or such as empty lie, and deck the shore,
Whose first and rightful owners are no more.
They make glad seizure of the vacant room,
And count the borrow'd shell their native home;
Screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case,
And boldly herd with the crustaceous race.
THE CRAB TRIBE.—This entire group of animals has a hard and strong shell covering their bodies, and they primarily live in the sea. Some, however, inhabit freshwater, and a few live on land. They have a varied diet, feeding on aquatic or marine plants, small fish, mollusks, or dead bodies. The black-clawed species is found along the rocky coasts of both Europe and India, and it’s the one that appears on our tables, being much more highly valued as food than many others in the tribe. The most notable feature in their life cycle is that they change their shells and can regenerate their broken claws. The shell-changing happens once a year, typically between Christmas and Easter, when crabs retreat to crevices in the rocks or hide under large stones. Fishermen claim that they can survive confined in a pot or basket for several months with only the nutrients collected from seawater; even in this situation, they will not lose weight. The hermit crab is another species, and it has the unusual habit of occupying the empty shell of another animal since it does not have a shell of its own. This behavior was known to ancient writers and is referenced in the following lines from Oppian:— The hermit fish, unarm'd by Nature, left Helpless and weak, grow strong by harmless theft. Fearful they stroll, and look with panting wish For the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish; Or such as empty lie, and deck the shore, Whose first and rightful owners are no more. They make glad seizure of the vacant room, And count the borrow'd shell their native home; Screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case, And boldly herd with the crustaceous race.
CRAYFISH.
246. Crayfish should be thrown into boiling water, to which has been added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. When done, which will be in 1/4 hour, take them out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange them on a napkin, and garnish with plenty of double parsley.
246. Throw crayfish into boiling water that has been seasoned with a good amount of salt and a little vinegar. When they're done, which will take about 15 minutes, take them out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange them on a napkin, and garnish with lots of fresh parsley.
Note.—This fish is frequently used for garnishing boiled turkey, boiled fowl, calf's head, turbot, and all kinds of boiled fish.
Note.—This fish is often used to garnish boiled turkey, boiled chicken, calf's head, turbot, and all types of boiled fish.
POTTED CRAYFISH.
247. INGREDIENTS.—100 crayfish; pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. butter.
247. INGREDIENTS.—100 crayfish; ground mace, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. butter.
Mode.—Boil the fish in salt and water; pick out all the meat and pound it in a mortar to a paste. Whilst pounding, add the butter gradually, and mix in the spice and seasoning. Put it in small pots, and pour over it clarified butter, carefully excluding the air.
Mode.—Boil the fish in saltwater; remove all the meat and pound it in a mortar until it becomes a paste. While pounding, gradually add the butter and mix in the spices and seasoning. Place it in small pots and pour clarified butter over it, making sure to exclude any air.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the crayfish. Average cost, 2s. 9d.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the crayfish. Average cost, £0.13.
Seasonable all the year.
All year round.
JOHN DORY.
248. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
248. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy, is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the fins; lay it in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the above proportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for 1/4 hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it.
Mode.—This fish, considered a delicacy by many, is prepared in the same way as a turbot. It has a similar firmness but is not as rich. Clean it thoroughly and remove the fins; place it in a fish kettle, cover it with cold water, and add salt in the specified amount. Bring it to a boil slowly, and then let it simmer gently for about 15 minutes, or a bit longer if the fish is very large. Serve it on a hot napkin, garnished with lemon slices and parsley. Accompany with lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, as well as plain melted butter.
Time.—After the water boils, 1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to size.
Time.—After the water boils, 15 to 30 minutes, depending on size.
Average cost, 3s. to 5s. Seasonable all the year, but best from September to January.
Average cost, 3s. to 5s. In season all year round, but best from September to January.
Note.—Small John Dorie are very good, baked.
Note.—Small John Dorie are great when baked.
[Illustration: THE JOHN DORY.]
[Illustration: THE JOHN DORY.]
THE DORU, or JOHN DORY.—This fish is of a yellowish golden colour, and is, in general, rare, although it is sometimes taken in abundance on the Devon and Cornish coasts. It is highly esteemed for the table, and its flesh, when dressed, is of a beautiful clear white. When fresh caught, it is tough, and, being a ground fish, it is not the worse for being kept two, or even three days before it is cooked.
THE DORU, or JOHN DORY.—This fish is a yellowish-golden color and is generally rare, although it can sometimes be found in abundance along the Devon and Cornish coasts. It is highly valued for cooking, and its flesh, when prepared, is a lovely clear white. When freshly caught, it is firm, and since it’s a bottom feeder, it’s perfectly fine to keep it for two or even three days before cooking.
BOILED EELS.
249. INGREDIENTS.—4 small eels, sufficient water to cover them; a large bunch of parsley.
249. INGREDIENTS.—4 small eels, enough water to cover them; a large bunch of parsley.
Mode.—Choose small eels for boiling; put them in a stewpan with the parsley, and just sufficient water to cover them; simmer till tender. Take them out, pour a little parsley and butter over them, and serve some in a tureen.
Mode.—Select small eels for boiling; place them in a saucepan with the parsley and just enough water to cover them; simmer until tender. Remove them, drizzle a bit of parsley and butter over them, and serve some in a soup tureen.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from June to March.
Available from June to March.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
[Illustration: THE EEL.]
[Illustration: THE EEL.]
THE EEL TRIBE.—The Apodal, or bony-gilled and ventral-finned fish, of which the eel forms the first Linnaean tribe, in their general aspect and manners, approach, in some instances, very nearly to serpents. They have a smooth head and slippery skin, are in general naked, or covered with such small, soft, and distant scales, as are scarcely visible. Their bodies are long and slender, and they are supposed to subsist entirely on animal substances. There are about nine species of them, mostly found in the seas. One of them frequents our fresh waters, and three of the others occasionally pay a visit to our shores.
THE EEL TRIBE.—The Apodal, or bony-gilled and ventral-finned fish, of which the eel represents the first Linnaean tribe, often resemble serpents in both appearance and behavior. They have smooth heads and slippery skin, and are generally naked or covered with tiny, soft, and widely spaced scales that are barely noticeable. Their bodies are long and slender, and they are believed to feed exclusively on animal matter. There are about nine species of eels, most of which are found in the ocean. One species lives in our freshwater, while three others occasionally visit our shores.
STEWED EELS.
I.
250. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of eels, 1 pint of rich strong stock, No. 104, 1 onion, 3 cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, 1 glass of port or Madeira, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream; thickening of flour; cayenne and lemon-juice to taste.
250. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of eels, 1 pint of rich strong stock, No. 104, 1 onion, 3 cloves, a piece of lemon peel, 1 glass of port or Madeira, 3 tablespoons of cream; thickening of flour; cayenne and lemon juice to taste.
Mode.—Wash and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about 3 inches long; pepper and salt them, and lay them in a stewpan; pour over the stock, add the onion stuck with cloves, the lemon-peel, and the wine. Stew gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, and lift them carefully on a dish, which keep hot. Strain the gravy, stir to the cream sufficient flour to thicken; mix altogether, boil for 2 minutes, and add the cayenne and lemon-juice; pour over the eels and serve.
Mode.—Clean and skin the eels, then cut them into pieces about 3 inches long. Season them with pepper and salt, and place them in a saucepan. Pour in the stock, add the onion studded with cloves, the lemon peel, and the wine. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes, or a little longer, then carefully transfer them to a hot serving dish. Strain the gravy, mix enough flour into the cream to thicken it; combine everything, bring it to a boil for 2 minutes, and add the cayenne and lemon juice. Pour this over the eels and serve.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 2s. 3d.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost for this amount, £0.11.
Seasonable from June to March.
Seasonal from June to March.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
THE COMMON EEL.—This fish is known frequently to quit its native element, and to set off on a wandering expedition in the night, or just about the close of clay, over the meadows, in search of snails and other prey. It also, sometimes, betakes itself to isolated ponds, apparently for no other pleasure than that which may be supposed to be found in a change of habitation. This, of course, accounts for eels being found in waters which were never suspected to contain them. This rambling disposition in the eel has been long known to naturalists, and, from the following lines, it seems to have been known to the ancients:—
THE COMMON EEL.—This fish is often known to leave its home waters and go on a nighttime adventure or just at dusk across the fields in search of snails and other food. It sometimes also moves into isolated ponds, seemingly just for the enjoyment of a change of scenery. This explains why eels are found in waters that were never thought to have them. Naturalists have long been aware of the eel's wandering nature, and as the following lines suggest, it seems that the ancients knew about it too:—
"Thus the mail'd tortoise, and the wand'ring; eel,
Oft to the neighbouring beach will silent steal."
"So the armored tortoise and the wandering eel,
Often quietly sneak to the nearby beach."
II.
251. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of middling-sized eels, 1 pint of medium stock, No. 105, 1/4 pint of port wine; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste; 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, the juice of 1/2 a lemon.
251. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of medium-sized eels, 1 pint of medium stock, No. 105, 1/4 pint of port wine; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste; 1 teaspoon of anchovy essence, juice of 1/2 a lemon.
Mode.—Skin, wash, and clean the eels thoroughly; cut them into pieces 3 inches long, and put them into strong salt and water for 1 hour; dry them well with a cloth, and fry them brown. Put the stock on with the heads and tails of the eels, and simmer for 1/2 hour; strain it, and add all the other ingredients. Put in the eels, and stew gently for 1/2 hour, when serve.
Method.—Skin, wash, and clean the eels thoroughly; cut them into pieces 3 inches long, and soak them in strong saltwater for 1 hour; dry them well with a cloth, and fry them until browned. Start by making the stock with the heads and tails of the eels, and simmer for 30 minutes; strain it, and add all the other ingredients. Add the eels and let them stew gently for 30 minutes before serving.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Duration: 2 hours. Average cost: 1s. 9d.
Seasonable from June to March.
Seasonal from June to March.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
FRIED EELS.
252. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of eels, 1 egg, a few bread crumbs, hot lard.
252. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of eels, 1 egg, a few bread crumbs, hot lard.
Mode.—Wash the eels, cut them into pieces 3 inches long, trim and wipe them very dry; dredge with flour, rub them over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs; fry of a nice brown in hot lard. If the eels are small, curl them round, instead of cutting them up. Garnish with fried parsley.
Mode.—Clean the eels and cut them into 3-inch pieces. Trim and dry them thoroughly; coat with flour, dip in egg, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry in hot lard until golden brown. If the eels are small, curl them instead of cutting them. Garnish with fried parsley.
Time.—20 minutes, or rather less. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—20 minutes, or maybe a bit less. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from June to March.
Available from June to March.
Note.—Garfish may be dressed like eels, and either broiled or baked.
Note.—Garfish can be prepared like eels and can be either grilled or baked.
THE PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE EEL.—"Having occasion," says Dr. Anderson, in the Bee, "to be once on a visit to a friend's house on Dee-side, in Aberdeenshire, I frequently delighted to walk by the banks of the river. I, one day, observed something like a black string moving along the edge of the water where it was quite shallow. Upon closer inspection, I discovered that this was a shoal of young eels, so closely joined together as to appear, on a superficial view, on continued body, moving briskly up against the stream. To avoid the retardment they experienced from the force of the current, they kept close along the water's edge the whole of the way, following all the bendings and sinuosities of the river. Where they were embayed, and in still water, the shoal dilated in breadth, so as to be sometimes nearly a foot broad; but when they turned a cape, where the current was strong, they were forced to occupy less space and press close to the shore, struggling very hard till they passed it. This shoal continued to move on, night and day without interruption for several weeks. Their progress might be at the rate of about a mile an hour. It was easy to catch the animals, though they were very active and nimble. They were eels perfectly well formed in every respect, but not exceeding two inches in length. I conceive that the shoal did not contain, on an average, less than from twelve to twenty in breadth; so that the number that passed, on the whole, must have been very great. Whence they came or whither they went, I know not; but the place where I saw this, was six miles from the sea."
THE PRODUCTIVENESS OF THE EEL.—"One time," says Dr. Anderson in the Bee, "when I was visiting a friend's house by the Dee river in Aberdeenshire, I often enjoyed walking along the riverbanks. One day, I noticed something that looked like a black string moving along the shallow water's edge. When I looked closer, I realized it was a group of young eels, so tightly packed together that they seemed like one continuous body, swimming swiftly upstream. To avoid being held back by the current, they stayed close to the water’s edge the entire way, following all the bends and curves of the river. In calm areas where the water was still, the group spread out to nearly a foot wide, but when they came to a strong current, they had to squeeze together and press close to the shore, struggling hard until they passed through. This group continued to move day and night without stopping for several weeks. They seemed to travel at about a mile an hour. It was easy to catch these creatures, even though they were very quick and agile. They were perfectly formed eels, but only about two inches long. I estimate that the group averaged from twelve to twenty eels wide, so the total number that passed by must have been quite large. I don’t know where they came from or where they were going, but the spot where I saw them was six miles from the sea."
EEL PIE.
253. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of eels, a little chopped parsley, 1 shalot; grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste; the juice of 1/2 a lemon, small quantity of forcemeat, 1/4 pint of béchamel (see Sauces); puff paste.
253. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of eels, a small amount of chopped parsley, 1 shallot; grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste; the juice of 1/2 a lemon, a small amount of forcemeat, 1/4 pint of béchamel (see Sauces); puff pastry.
Mode.—Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces 2 inches long, and line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the eels, and sprinkle them with the parsley, shalots, nutmeg, seasoning, and lemon-juice, and cover with puff-paste. Bake for 1 hour, or rather more; make the béchamel hot, and pour it into the pie.
Method.—Clean and wash the eels, cut them into 2-inch pieces, and line the bottom of the pie dish with ground meat. Add the eels, and sprinkle them with parsley, shallots, nutmeg, seasoning, and lemon juice, then cover with puff pastry. Bake for 1 hour, or a bit longer; heat the béchamel and pour it into the pie.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour.
Time.—Just over 1 hour.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
COLLARED EEL.
254. INGREDIENTS.—1 large eel; pepper and salt to taste; 2 blades of mace, 2 cloves, a little allspice very finely pounded, 6 leaves of sage, and a small bunch of herbs minced very small.
254. INGREDIENTS.—1 large eel; pepper and salt to taste; 2 blades of mace, 2 cloves, a little allspice very finely ground, 6 leaves of sage, and a small bunch of herbs finely chopped.
Mode.—Bone the eel and skin it; split it, and sprinkle it over with the ingredients, taking care that the spices are very finely pounded, and the herbs chopped very small. Roll it up and bind with a broad piece of tape, and boil it in water, mixed with a little salt and vinegar, till tender. It may either be served whole or cut in slices; and when cold, the eel should be kept in the liquor it was boiled in, but with a little more vinegar put to it.
Mode.—Remove the bones and skin from the eel; split it open and sprinkle the ingredients over it, making sure the spices are finely ground and the herbs are chopped very small. Roll it up and secure it with a wide strip of tape, then boil it in water mixed with a bit of salt and vinegar until tender. It can be served whole or sliced, and once cooled, the eel should be stored in the liquid it was boiled in, but with a little extra vinegar added.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 6 pence per pound.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
HAUNTS OF THE EEL.—These are usually in mud, among weeds, under roots or stumps of trees, or in holes in the banks or the bottoms of rivers. Here they often grow to an enormous size, sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds. They seldom come forth from their hiding-places except in the night; and, in winter, bury themselves deep in the mud, on account of their great susceptibility of cold.
HAUNTS OF THE EEL.—These are usually found in mud, among weeds, under roots or stumps of trees, or in holes along the banks or bottoms of rivers. Here, they can grow to an enormous size, sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds. They rarely come out of their hiding places except at night; in winter, they burrow deep into the mud because they are highly sensitive to the cold.
EELS A LA TARTARE.
255. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of eels, 1 carrot, 1 onion, a little flour, 1 glass of sherry; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
255. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of eels, 1 carrot, 1 onion, a little flour, 1 glass of sherry; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 tablespoons of vinegar.
Mode.—Rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan; cut up the carrot and onion, and stir them over the fire for 5 minutes; dredge in a little flour, add the wine and seasoning, and boil for 1/2 an hour. Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces, put them to the other ingredients, and simmer till tender. When they are done, take them out, let them get cold, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them of a nice brown. Put them on a dish, pour sauce piquante over, and serve them hot.
Mode.—Grease the bottom of the saucepan with butter; chop the carrot and onion, and sauté them over the heat for 5 minutes; sprinkle in a little flour, add the wine and seasoning, and let it boil for 30 minutes. Clean the eels, cut them into pieces, add them to the other ingredients, and simmer until tender. Once they’re cooked, remove them, let them cool, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until golden brown. Place them on a plate, pour sauce piquante over, and serve hot.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the sauce piquante.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 8 pence, not including the spicy sauce.
Seasonable from August to March. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Available from August to March. Enough for 5 or 6 people.
VORACITY OF THE EEL.—We find in a note upon Isaac Walton, by Sir John Hawkins, that he knew of eels, when kept in ponds, frequently destroying ducks. From a canal near his house at Twickenham he himself missed many young ducks; and on draining, in order to clean it, great numbers of large eels were caught in the mud. When some of these were opened, there were found in their stomachs the undigested heads of the quacking tribe which had become their victims.
VORACITY OF THE EEL.—In a note about Isaac Walton by Sir John Hawkins, it is mentioned that he observed eels, when kept in ponds, often preying on ducks. From a canal near his home in Twickenham, he noticed the disappearance of many young ducks; and when he drained it to clean it, a large number of big eels were caught in the mud. When some of these eels were opened, their stomachs revealed the undigested heads of the quacking birds they had eaten.
EELS EN MATELOTE.
256. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 young onions, a few mushrooms, when obtainable; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 laurel-leaf, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105; butter and flour to thicken; 2 lbs. of eels.
256. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 young onions, a few mushrooms, if available; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 bay leaf, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105; butter and flour to thicken; 2 lbs. of eels.
Mode.—Rub the stewpan with butter, dredge in a little flour, add the onions cut very small, slightly brown them, and put in all the other ingredients. Wash, and cut up the eels into pieces 3 inches long; put them in the stewpan, and simmer for 1/2 hour. Make round the dish, a border of croutons, or pieces of toasted bread; arrange the eels in a pyramid in the centre, and pour over the sauce. Serve very hot.
Method.—Grease the saucepan with butter, sprinkle in a little flour, add finely chopped onions, lightly brown them, and then include all the other ingredients. Clean and chop the eels into 3-inch pieces; place them in the saucepan and let simmer for 30 minutes. Create a border around the dish with croutons or pieces of toasted bread; arrange the eels in a pyramid in the center and pour the sauce over them. Serve very hot.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d. for this quantity.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling and 9 pence for this amount.
Seasonable from August to March. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
In season from August to March. Enough for 5 or 6 people.
TENACITY OF LIFE IN THE EEL.—There is no fish so tenacious of life as this. After it is skinned and cut in pieces, the parts will continue to move for a considerable time, and no fish will live so long out of water.
TENACITY OF LIFE IN THE EEL.—There is no fish that is as resilient as this one. Even after it's been skinned and cut into pieces, the parts will keep moving for quite a while, and no fish can survive so long outside of water.
[Illustration: THE LAMPREY.]
[Illustration: THE LAMPREY.]
THE LAMPREY.—With the Romans, this fish occupied a respectable rank among the piscine tribes, and in Britain it has at various periods stood high in public favour. It was the cause of the death of Henry I. of England, who ate so much of them, that it brought on an attack of indigestion, which carried him off. It is an inhabitant of the sea, ascending rivers, principally about the end of winter, and, after passing a few months in fresh water, returning again to its oceanic residence. It is most in season in March, April, and May, but is, by some, regarded as an unwholesome food, although looked on by others as a great delicacy. They are dressed as eels.
THE LAMPREY.—In ancient Rome, this fish held a notable position among the fish species, and in Britain, it has at times been very popular. It was responsible for the death of Henry I of England, who ate so many that it led to an attack of indigestion that ultimately killed him. This fish lives in the sea, swims upstream, mainly at the end of winter, and after spending a few months in freshwater, it returns to its ocean habitat. It is best in season during March, April, and May, but some people consider it unhealthy to eat, while others see it as a delicious treat. They are prepared like eels.
FISH AND OYSTER PIE.
257. INGREDIENTS.—Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or haddock; 2 dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of fish; 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
257. INGREDIENTS.—Any leftover cold fish, like cod or haddock; 2 dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, enough bread crumbs for the amount of fish; 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon of finely chopped parsley.
Mode.—Clear the fish from the bones, and put a layer of it in a pie-dish, which sprinkle with pepper and salt; then a layer of bread crumbs, oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the dish is quite full. You may form a covering either of bread crumbs, which should be browned, or puff-paste, which should be cut into long strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of the paste first laid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some made melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and bake.
Method.—Remove the fish from the bones and place a layer of it in a pie dish, sprinkling it with pepper and salt; then add a layer of breadcrumbs, oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Keep repeating this until the dish is full. You can create a topping using either browned breadcrumbs or puff pastry, cut into long strips and arranged in a crisscross pattern over the fish, with a strip of pastry placed along the edge. Before adding the top, pour in some melted butter or a little thin white sauce, along with the oyster liquor, and bake.
Time.—If made of cooked fish, 1/4 hour; if made of fresh fish and puff-paste, 3/4 hour.
Time.—If made with cooked fish, 15 minutes; if made with fresh fish and puff pastry, 45 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
Note.—A nice little dish may be made by flaking any cold fish, adding a few oysters, seasoning with pepper and salt, and covering with mashed potatoes; 1/4 hour will bake it.
Note.—You can make a nice little dish by flaking any leftover fish, adding a few oysters, seasoning it with pepper and salt, and topping it with mashed potatoes; bake it for 15 minutes.
FISH CAKE.
258. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of any cold fish, 1 onion, 1 faggot of sweet herbs; salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, equal quantities of bread crumbs and cold potatoes, 1/2 teaspoonful of parsley, 1 egg, bread crumbs.
258. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold fish, 1 onion, 1 bunch of fresh herbs; salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, equal amounts of bread crumbs and cold potatoes, 1/2 teaspoon of parsley, 1 egg, bread crumbs.
Mode.—Pick the meat from the bones of the fish, which latter put, with the head and fins, into a stewpan with the water; add pepper and salt, the onion and herbs, and stew slowly for gravy about 2 hours; chop the fish fine, and mix it well with bread crumbs and cold potatoes, adding the parsley and seasoning; make the whole into a cake with the white of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with bread crumbs, and fry of a light brown; strain the gravy, pour it over, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, stirring it carefully once or twice. Serve hot, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley.
Mode.—Remove the meat from the fish bones, and place those bones, along with the head and fins, into a saucepan with water. Add pepper, salt, the onion, and herbs, and simmer slowly for about 2 hours to create a gravy. Finely chop the fish and mix it thoroughly with breadcrumbs and cold potatoes, adding parsley and seasoning. Form the mixture into a cake using the egg white, brush it with egg, cover it with breadcrumbs, and fry until light brown. Strain the gravy, pour it over the fish cake, and simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring carefully once or twice. Serve hot, garnished with lemon slices and parsley.
Time—1/2 hour, after the gravy is made.
Time—30 minutes, after the gravy is prepared.
BOILED FLOUNDERS.
259. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient water to cover the flounders, salt in the proportion of 6 oz. to each gallon, a little vinegar.
259. INGREDIENTS.—Enough water to cover the flounders, 6 oz. of salt for each gallon, and a bit of vinegar.
Mode.—Pat on a kettle with enough water to cover the flounders, lay in the fish, add salt and vinegar in the above proportions, and when it boils, simmer very gently for 5 minutes. They must not boil fast, or they will break. Serve with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter.
Mode.—Put enough water in a pot to cover the flounders, add the fish, then mix in salt and vinegar as mentioned, and once it boils, reduce the heat and let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes. They shouldn’t boil rapidly, or they’ll fall apart. Serve with plain melted butter, or with parsley and butter.
Time.—After the water boils, 5 minutes.
Time.—After the water boils, 5 minutes.
Average cost, 3d. each.
Average cost, 3d each.
Seasonable from August to November.
Seasonal from August to November.
[Illustration: FLOUNDERS.]
[Illustration: FLOUNDERS.]
THE FLOUNDER.—This comes under the tribe usually denominated Flat-fish, and is generally held in the smallest estimation of any among them. It is an inhabitant of both the seas and the rivers, while it thrives in ponds. On the English coasts it is very abundant, and the London market consumes it in large quantities. It is considered easy of digestion, and the Thames flounder is esteemed a delicate fish.
THE FLOUNDER.—This belongs to the group typically called Flat-fish and is usually regarded as the least valuable among them. It lives in both seas and rivers, and it does well in ponds. It is very common along the English coasts, and the London market buys it in large amounts. It's considered easy to digest, and the Thames flounder is thought to be a delicately flavored fish.
FRIED FLOUNDERS.
260. INGREDIENTS.—Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling lard.
260. INGREDIENTS.—Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling lard.
Mode.—Cleanse the fish, and, two hours before they are wanted, rub them inside and out with salt, to render them firm; wash and wipe them very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs; fry them in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish with crisped parsley.
Mode.—Clean the fish, and two hours before you need them, rub salt on the inside and outside to make them firm. Rinse and dry them thoroughly, dip them in egg, and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Fry them in hot lard, serve on a warm napkin, and garnish with crispy parsley.
Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.
Time.—Between 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the size.
Average cost, 3d. each.
Average cost, 3d. each.
Seasonable from August to November.
In season from August to November.
Sufficient, 1 for each person.
Enough, 1 for each person.
GUDGEONS.
261. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of fish; hot lard.
261. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and breadcrumbs enough for the amount of fish; hot oil.
Mode.—Do not scrape off the scales, but take out the gills and inside, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour and dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Fry of a nice brown.
Mode.—Don't remove the scales, but take out the gills and insides, and clean them thoroughly; wipe them dry, coat with flour, dip in egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Fry until nice and brown.
Time.—3 or 4 minutes.
Time: 3-4 minutes.
Average cost. Seldom bought.
Average cost. Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from March to July.
Available from March to July.
Sufficient, 3 for each person.
Enough, 3 for each person.
[Illustration: THE GUDGEON.]
[Illustration: THE GUDGEON.]
THE GUDGEON.—This is a fresh-water fish, belonging to the carp genus, and is found in placid streams and lakes. It was highly esteemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning of supper, served fried at Rome. It abounds both in France and Germany; and is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of England. Its flesh is firm, well-flavoured, and easily digested.
THE GUDGEON.—This is a freshwater fish from the carp family, found in calm streams and lakes. It was highly valued by the Greeks and served fried at the start of dinner in Rome. It's abundant in both France and Germany and is plentiful and tasty in some rivers in England. Its flesh is firm, flavorful, and easy to digest.
GURNET, or GURNARD.
Gurnet or Gurnard.
262. INGREDIENTS.—1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.
262. INGREDIENTS.—1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have ready some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish in, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovy sauce, should be served with it.
Mode.—Wash the fish well and remove the fins; prepare some boiling water with the appropriate amount of salt; add the fish and let it simmer gently for 30 minutes. Serve it with parsley and butter or anchovy sauce.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost. Seldom bought.
Average price. Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from October to March, but in perfection in October.
In season from October to March, but at its best in October.
Sufficient, a middling sized one for 2 persons.
Sufficient, a medium-sized one for 2 people.
Note.—This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked.
Note.—This fish is often stuffed with ground meat and baked.
[Illustration: THE GURNET.]
[Illustration: THE GURNET.]
THE GURNET.-"If I be not ashamed of my soldiers, I am a souced gurnet," says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been long known in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and is an excellent fish as food.
THE GURNET.-"If I'm not ashamed of my soldiers, I'm a souced gurnet," says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been well-known in England for a long time. It's very common along the British coasts and is a great fish for eating.
BAKED HADDOCKS.
263. INGREDIENTS.—A nice forcemeat (see Forcemeats), butter to taste, egg and bread crumbs.
263. INGREDIENTS.—A good forcemeat (see Forcemeats), butter to your liking, an egg, and bread crumbs.
Mode.—Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put in a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with egg, sprinkle over bread crumbs, and baste frequently with butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice brown gravy, plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread crumbs can be omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish.
Mode.—Scale and clean the fish without making a big cut; stuff it with a nice, delicate filling, and sew up the opening. Brush it with egg, sprinkle bread crumbs on top, and baste frequently with butter. Garnish with parsley and lemon wedges, and serve with a rich brown gravy, plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. You can skip the egg and bread crumbs and just place bits of butter on the fish instead.
Time.—Large haddock, 3/4 hour; moderate size, 1/4 hour.
Time.—Large haddock, 45 minutes; medium size, 15 minutes.
Seasonable from August to February.
Available from August to February.
Average cost, from 9d. upwards.
Average cost, from 9d. up.
Note.—Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and bread crumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley.
Note.—You can fillet haddocks, coat them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them until they’re golden brown; garnish with crispy parsley.
[Illustration: THE HADDOCK.]
[Illustration: THE HADDOCK.]
THE HADDOCK.—This fish migrates in immense shoals, and arrives on the Yorkshire coast about the middle of winter. It is an inhabitant of the northern seas of Europe, but does not enter the Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean. On each side of the body, just beyond the gills, it has a dark spot, which superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and thumb of St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a fish of this species.
THE HADDOCK.—This fish moves in huge schools and reaches the Yorkshire coast around the middle of winter. It's found in the northern seas of Europe but doesn’t go into the Baltic Sea and isn’t found in the Mediterranean. On either side of its body, just behind the gills, there’s a dark spot, which superstition claims are the marks of St. Peter's finger and thumb when he took the tribute money from a fish of this kind.
BOILED HADDOCK.
264. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
264. INGREDIENTS.—Enough water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. of salt for each gallon of water.
Mode.—Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly, and lay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it and salt in the above proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather more, should the fish be very large. For small haddocks, fasten the tails in their mouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15 minutes will cook them. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce.
Mode.—Scale the fish, remove the insides, wash it thoroughly, and place it in a pot with enough water to cover it and salt in the same amount as mentioned above. Simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes, or longer if the fish is very large. For small haddocks, tie the tails in their mouths and drop them into boiling water. They will take 10 to 15 minutes to cook. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce.
Time.—Large haddock, 1/2 hour; small, 1/4 hour, or rather less.
Time.—Large haddock, 30 minutes; small, 15 minutes, or even a bit less.
Average cost, from 9d. upwards.
Average cost, from 9d. and up.
Seasonable from August to February.
Available from August to February.
WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK.—The haddock seldom grows to any great size. In general, they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in size. Such are esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught three feet long, when their flesh is coarse.
WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK.—The haddock rarely grows to a large size. Typically, they don’t weigh more than two or three pounds or exceed ten or twelve inches in length. These smaller ones are considered very tasty; however, they have been caught at three feet long, at which point their flesh is tough.
DRIED HADDOCK.
I.
265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before or over a nice clear fire. Hub a little piece of butter over, just before sending it to table.
265. Dried haddock should be slowly warmed up, either before or over a nice clear fire. Add a small amount of butter on top right before serving.
II.
266. INGREDIENTS.—1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper; boiling water.
266. INGREDIENTS.—1 large thick haddock, 2 bay leaves, 1 small bunch of savory herbs, including parsley, a little butter, and pepper; boiling water.
Mode.—Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot by means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-leaves and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over to keep in the steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices, put them in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve.
Method.—Cut the haddock into square pieces, heat a bowl by filling it with hot water and then pouring it out. Place the fish in the bowl along with the bay leaves and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate on top to trap the steam, and let it sit for 10 minutes. Take out the pieces, place them in a warm dish, brush with butter and sprinkle with pepper, and serve.
Time.—10 minutes. Seasonable at any time, but best in winter.
Time.—10 minutes. Good at any time, but best in winter.
THE FINNAN HADDOCK.—This is the common haddock cured and dried, and takes its name from the fishing-village of Findhorn, near Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the art has long attained to perfection. The haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are esteemed, by the Scotch, a great delicacy. In London, an imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few days.
THE FINNAN HADDOCK.—This is the common haddock that’s cured and dried, named after the fishing village of Findhorn, near Aberdeen in Scotland, where this process has been perfected for a long time. The haddocks are hung up for a day or two in peat smoke, making them ready for cooking, and they are considered a great delicacy by the Scots. In London, a version of this is made by washing the fish with pyroligneous acid and hanging it in a dry place for a few days.
RED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS.
Red herrings, or Yarmouth bloaters.
267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire, and will be far better than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nice relish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreading it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing.
267. The best way to cook these is to make cuts in the skin across the fish, because they won’t need to be on the heat as long, and they will turn out much better than if you just cut them open. The hard roe makes a great topping if you pound it in a mortar with a little anchovy and spread it on toast. If it’s very dry, soak it in warm water for 1 hour before cooking.
THE RED HERRING.—Red herrings lie twenty-four hours in the brine, when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house formed to receive them. A brushwood fire is then kindled beneath them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are put into barrels for carriage.
THE RED HERRING.—Red herrings are soaked in brine for twenty-four hours, then taken out and hung in a smokehouse designed for that purpose. A fire of brushwood is then started underneath them, and once they are adequately smoked and dried, they are packed into barrels for transport.
BAKED WHITE HERRINGS.
268. INGREDIENTS.—12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2 small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, sufficient vinegar to fill up the dish.
268. INGREDIENTS.—12 herring, 4 bay leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice berries, 2 small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, enough vinegar to fill the dish.
Mode.—Take the herrings, cut off the heads, and gut them. Put them in a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each layer, sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the vinegar, and bake for 1/2 hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The herrings may be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and closed again. Sprats done in this way are very delicious.
Mode.—Take the herrings, remove the heads, and gut them. Place them in a pie dish, alternating the heads and tails, and sprinkle the ingredients between each layer. Cover the fish with vinegar and bake for 30 minutes, but do not serve until completely cool. The herrings can be split down the front, with the backbone removed and then closed again. Sprats prepared this way are very tasty.
Time.—1/2 an hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost, 1d. each.
Average cost, 1 day each.
TO CHOOSE THE HERRING.—The more scales this fish has, the surer the sign of its freshness. It should also have a bright and silvery look; but if red about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for some time.
TO CHOOSE THE HERRING.—The more scales this fish has, the more certain you can be about its freshness. It should also have a shiny, silvery appearance; however, if it's red around the head, that indicates it has been dead for a while.
[Illustration: THE HERRING.]
[Illustration: THE HERRING.]
THE HERRING.—The herring tribe are found in the greatest abundance in the highest northern latitudes, where they find a quiet retreat, and security from their numerous enemies. Here they multiply beyond expression, and, in shoals, come forth from their icy region to visit other portions of the great deep. In June they are found about Shetland, whence they proceed down to the Orkneys, where they divide, and surround the islands of Great Britain and Ireland. The principal British herring-fisheries are off the Scotch and Norfolk coasts; and the fishing is always carried on by means of nets, which are usually laid at night; for, if stretched by day, they are supposed to frighten the fish away. The moment the herring is taken out of the water it dies. Hence the origin of the common saying, "dead as a herring."
THE HERRING.—The herring are most abundant in the northernmost latitudes, where they find a safe space away from their many predators. Here, they multiply prolifically and, in large groups, leave their icy homes to explore other parts of the ocean. In June, they can be found around Shetland, from where they move down to the Orkneys, splitting up as they surround the islands of Great Britain and Ireland. The main herring fisheries in Britain are off the coasts of Scotland and Norfolk, and fishing is done using nets, which are typically set at night; if the nets are laid out during the day, they are thought to scare the fish away. The moment a herring is taken out of the water, it dies. This is where the saying "dead as a herring" comes from.
KEGEREE.
269. INGREDIENTS.—Any cold fish, 1 teacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne to taste.
269. INGREDIENTS.—Any cold fish, 1 cup of boiled rice, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode.—Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied according to the amount of fish used.
Mode.—Carefully remove the fish from the bones, mix it with the other ingredients, and serve it very hot. You can adjust the quantities based on how much fish you use.
Time.—1/4 hour after the rice is boiled.
Time.—15 minutes after the rice is cooked.
Average cost, 5d., exclusive of the fish.
Average cost, 5d., not including the fish.
TO BOIL LOBSTERS.
270. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
270. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy and full of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When the shell is incrusted, it is a sign they are old: medium-sized lobsters are the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion; put in the lobster, and keep it boiling quickly from 20 minutes to 3/4 hour, according to its size, and do not forget to skim well. If it boils too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not done enough, the spawn is not red: this must be obviated by great attention. Hub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil, which wipe off again.
Mode.—Buy live lobsters and pick the ones that are heavy and full of movement, as this indicates they are fresh. If the shell looks crusty, it's a sign they are old; medium-sized lobsters are the best. Have a pot of boiling salted water ready; add the lobster and keep it boiling quickly for 20 minutes to 45 minutes, depending on its size, and remember to skim it well. If it boils too long, the meat will become stringy, and if it’s undercooked, the roe won't be red; you need to pay close attention to avoid this. Rub the shell with a bit of butter or oil, then wipe it off again.
Time.—Small lobster, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; large ditto, 1/2 to 1/3 hour.
Time.—Small lobster, 20 minutes to 30 minutes; large lobster, 30 to 40 minutes.
Average cost, medium size, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
Average cost, medium size, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
Seasonable all the year, but best from March to October.
Available all year round, but best from March to October.
TO CHOOSE LOBSTERS.—This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as it ought to have been, will have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gently raised, will return with a spring. Care, however, must be taken in thus proving it; for if the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return; when the fish might be pronounced inferior, which, in reality, may not be the case. In order to be good, lobsters should be weighty for their bulk; if light, they will be watery; and those of the medium size, are always the best. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, and answer very well for sauce. In boiling lobsters, the appearance of the shell will be much improved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on being immediately taken from the pot.
TO CHOOSE LOBSTERS.—This shellfish, if it has been cooked alive, as it should be, will have a stiffness in the tail that, if gently lifted, will spring back. However, you need to be careful when testing it; if you pull the tail straight out, it won't spring back, and you might mistakenly think the lobster is inferior when it might not be. For lobsters to be good, they should feel heavy for their size; if they're light, they'll be watery, and medium-sized ones are always the best. Small lobsters are the cheapest and work well for sauces. When boiling lobsters, the look of the shell will be greatly improved by rubbing a bit of butter or salad oil on it right after taking it out of the pot.
[Illustration: THE LOBSTER.]
[Illustration: THE LOBSTER.]
THE LOBSTER.—This is one of the crab tribe, and is found on most of the rocky coasts of Great Britain. Some are caught with the hand, but the larger number in pots, which serve all the purposes of a trap, being made of osiers, and baited with garbage. They are shaped like a wire mousetrap; so that when the lobsters once enter them, they cannot get out again. They are fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea, and their place marked by a buoy. The fish is very prolific, and deposits of its eggs in the sand, where they are soon hatched. On the coast of Norway, they are very abundant, and it is from there that the English metropolis is mostly supplied. They are rather indigestible, and, as a food, not so nurtritive as they are generally supposed to be.
THE LOBSTER.—This is a member of the crab family, commonly found along most rocky coastlines of Great Britain. Some are caught by hand, but most are trapped in pots made of willow and baited with scraps. They resemble a wire mousetrap; once the lobsters get in, they can’t get out. The pots are attached to a line and submerged in the sea, marked by a buoy. The species is very fertile, laying its eggs in the sand where they hatch quickly. In Norway, they are quite plentiful, and that’s where most of the supply for the English capital comes from. They can be hard to digest and, as a food source, are not as nutritious as people often think.
HOT LOBSTER.
271. INGREDIENTS.—1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg; salt, pepper, and pounded mace, to taste; bread crumbs, 2 eggs.
271. INGREDIENTS.—1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg; salt, pepper, and ground mace, to taste; bread crumbs, 2 eggs.
Mode.—Pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the butter and seasoning, and add a few bread crumbs. Beat the eggs, and make the whole mixture into the form of a lobster; pound the spawn, and sprinkle over it. Bake 1/4 hour, and just before serving, lay over it the tail and body shell, with the small claws underneath, to resemble a lobster.
Mode.—Mash the lobster meat into a smooth paste with the butter and seasoning, and mix in some bread crumbs. Beat the eggs and shape the entire mixture to look like a lobster; mash the roe and sprinkle it on top. Bake for 15 minutes, and just before serving, place the tail and shell on top, with the small claws underneath, to make it look like a lobster.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time: 15 minutes. Average cost: 2.5.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate any time.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
LOBSTER SALAD.
272. INGREDIENTS.—1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad (whatever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, equal quantities of oil and vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; cayenne and salt to taste; 3 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients should be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce.
272. INGREDIENTS.—1 whole lobster, lettuce, endive, a small salad (whatever is in season), a bit of chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, a few slices of cucumber. For the dressing, use equal parts oil and vinegar, 1 teaspoon of prepared mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs; add cayenne and salt to taste; and 3 teaspoons of anchovy sauce. Mix these ingredients until they're perfectly smooth, creating a creamy-looking sauce.
Mode.—Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a cloth. Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and lightly throw in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pickings from the body of the lobster; pick the meat from the shell, cut it up into nice square pieces, put half in the salad, the other half reserve for garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs; chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve, and afterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly on a glass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then with the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, and beetroot placed alternately, and arranged in small separate bunches, so that the colours contrast nicely.
Mode.—Wash the salad and dry it thoroughly by shaking it in a cloth. Chop the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing over them, and gently toss in the small salad. Mix everything well with the bits from the body of the lobster; remove the meat from the shell, cut it into nice square pieces, add half to the salad, and set aside the other half for garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled eggs; chop the whites very finely and press the yolks through a sieve, along with the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly on a glass dish and garnish it first with a row of sliced cucumber, then with the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, and beetroot placed alternately, arranged in small separate bunches for a nice color contrast.
Average cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Average cost, £3.30. Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from April to October; may be had all the year, but salad is scarce and expensive in winter.
In season from April to October; available all year round, but salad is hard to find and pricey in winter.
Note.—A few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad.
Note.—A few crayfish make a great garnish for lobster salad.
THE SHELL OF THE LOBSTER.—Like the others of its tribe, the lobster annually casts its shell. Previously to its throwing off the old one, it appears sick, languid, and restless, but in the course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of armour. Whilst it is in a defenceless state, however, it seeks some lonely place, where it may lie undisturbed, and escape the horrid fate of being devoured by some of its own species who have the advantage of still being encased in their mail.
THE SHELL OF THE LOBSTER.—Like others in its group, the lobster sheds its shell every year. Before it sheds the old one, it looks sick, sluggish, and anxious, but within a few days, it's completely covered in its new armor. While it’s vulnerable during this time, it looks for a quiet spot where it can rest without being disturbed, hoping to avoid the terrible fate of being eaten by others of its kind who are still protected by their shells.
LOBSTER (a la Mode Francaise).
Lobster (French style).
273. INGREDIENTS.—1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; bread crumbs.
273. INGREDIENTS.—1 lobster, 4 tablespoons of white stock, 2 tablespoons of cream, ground mace, and cayenne pepper to taste; bread crumbs.
Mode.—Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small square pieces; put the stock, cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, add the lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell, which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste; cover it with bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and brown before the fire, or with a salamander.
Mode.—Remove the meat from the shell and chop it into small square pieces; place the stock, cream, and seasoning into a saucepan, add the lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the shell, which should be thoroughly cleaned, with a border of puff pastry; sprinkle with breadcrumbs, dot with small pieces of butter, and brown it under the broiler or with a salamander.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—15 minutes. Average cost, £0.12.
Seasonable at any time.
Great at any time.
CELERITY OF THE LOBSTER.—In its element, the lobster is able to run with great speed upon its legs, or small claws, and, if alarmed, to spring, tail foremost, to a considerable distance, "even," it is said, "with the swiftness of a bird flying." Fishermen have seen some of them pass about thirty feet with a wonderful degree of swiftness. When frightened, they will take their spring, and, like a chamois of the Alps, plant themselves upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves.
CELERITY OF THE LOBSTER.—In the water, the lobster can move quickly on its legs, or small claws, and, when scared, it can leap tail-first over a significant distance, "even," it's said, "with the speed of a bird in flight." Fishermen have observed some of them cover about thirty feet with remarkable speed. When they’re frightened, they take their jump and, like a chamois in the Alps, land exactly where they intended to settle.
LOBSTER CURRY (an Entree).
LOBSTER CURRY (an entrée).
274. INGREDIENTS.—1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
274. INGREDIENTS.—1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. butter, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, 1/2 pint of medium stock, No. 105, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
Mode.—Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it into nice square pieces; fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter, stir in the curry-powder and stock, and simmer till it thickens, when put in the lobster; stew the whole slowly for 1/2 hour, and stir occasionally; and just before sending to table, put in the lemon-juice. Serve boiled rice with it, the same as for other curries.
Method.—Remove the meat from the shell and cut it into nice square pieces; sauté the onions in butter until they are a light brown, then stir in the curry powder and stock, and let it simmer until it thickens. Add the lobster, and cook everything slowly for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally; just before serving, add the lemon juice. Serve with boiled rice, just like you would with other curries.
Time.—Altogether, 3/4 hour. Average cost, 3s.
Time.—Total, 45 minutes. Average cost, 3s.
Seasonable at any time.
Available year-round.
LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree).
LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree).
275. INGREDIENTS.—1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. fresh butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and white pepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs.
275. INGREDIENTS.—1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. fresh butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and white pepper to taste, egg, and breadcrumbs.
Mode.—Pick the meat from the shell, and pound it in a mortar with the butter, and gradually add the mace and seasoning, well mixing the ingredients; beat all to a smooth paste, and add a little of the spawn; divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size, and shape them like cutlets. They should not be very thick. Brush them over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and stick a short piece of the small claw in the top of each; fry them of a nice brown in boiling lard, and drain them before the fire, on a sieve reversed; arrange them nicely on a dish, and pour béchamel in the middle, but not over the cutlets.
Method.—Remove the meat from the shell and mash it in a bowl with the butter, gradually adding the mace and seasoning, mixing the ingredients well; blend everything into a smooth paste, then stir in a little of the roe. Divide the mixture into equal-sized pieces and shape them like cutlets, making sure they're not too thick. Brush them with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and insert a small piece of the claw on top of each one; fry them until golden brown in hot lard, then drain them on a sieve propped up in front of the fire. Arrange them nicely on a plate and pour some béchamel in the center, but not over the cutlets.
Time.—About 8 minutes after the cutlets are made.
Time.—About 8 minutes after the cutlets are prepared.
Average cost for this dish, 2s. 9d.
Average cost for this dish, £0.14.
Seasonable all the year. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Available all year round. Enough for 5 or 6 people.
ANCIENT MODE OF COOKING THE LOBSTER.—When this fish was to be served for the table, among the ancients, it was opened lengthwise, and filled with a gravy composed of coriander and pepper. It was then put on the gridiron and slowly cooked, whilst it was being basted with the same kind of gravy with which the flesh had become impregnated.
ANCIENT WAY OF COOKING LOBSTER.—When this seafood was ready to be served, the ancients prepared it by slicing it in half lengthwise and filling it with a sauce made from coriander and pepper. It was then placed on the grill and cooked slowly, while being baste with the same sauce that had soaked into the flesh.
TO DRESS LOBSTERS.
276. When the lobster is boiled, rub it over with a little salad-oil, which wipe off again; separate the body from the tail, break off the great claws, and crack them at the joints, without injuring the meat; split the tail in halves, and arrange all neatly in a dish, with the body upright in the middle, and garnish with parsley. (See Coloured Plate, H.)
276. When the lobster is cooked, brush it with a little salad oil, then wipe it off. Separate the body from the tail, remove the large claws, and crack them at the joints without damaging the meat. Split the tail in half, and arrange everything nicely on a plate, with the body standing upright in the center, and garnish with parsley. (See Coloured Plate, H.)
LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entree).
Lobster patties (an entrée).
277. INGREDIENTS.—Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of béchamel, 6 drops of anchovy sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste.
277. INGREDIENTS.—Chopped lobster, 4 tablespoons of béchamel, 6 drops of anchovy sauce, lemon juice, cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode.—Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, and put into each a small piece of bread: cover with paste, brush over with egg, and bake of a light colour. Take as much lobster as is required, mince the meat very fine, and add the above ingredients; stir it over the fire for 6 minutes; remove the lids of the patty-cases, take out the bread, fill with the mixture, and replace the covers.
Method.—Line the tart pans with puff pastry and place a small piece of bread in each one: cover with pastry, brush with egg, and bake until lightly colored. Take the amount of lobster you need, chop the meat very finely, and add the ingredients mentioned above; stir it over the heat for 6 minutes; remove the lids from the pastry cases, take out the bread, fill with the mixture, and put the covers back on.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable at any time.
LOCAL ATTACHMENT OF THE LOBSTER.—It is said that the attachment of this animal is strong to some particular parts of the sea, a circumstance celebrated in the following lines:—
LOCAL ATTACHMENT OF THE LOBSTER.—It is said that this animal has a strong attachment to certain parts of the sea, a fact noted in the following lines:—
"Nought like their home the constant lobsters prize,
And foreign shores and seas unknown despise.
Though cruel hands the banish'd wretch expel,
And force the captive from his native cell,
He will, if freed, return with anxious care,
Find the known rock, and to his home repair;
No novel customs learns in different seas,
But wonted food and home-taught manners please."
"Nothing compares to their home, which they cherish,
And they look down on foreign shores and unknown seas.
Even though harsh hands drive the banished soul away,
And force the captive from his native cell,
He will, if freed, return with eager care,
Seek out the familiar rock, and head back home;
He learns no new customs in distant waters,
But is happy with familiar food and home-taught ways."
POTTED LOBSTER.
278. INGREDIENTS.—2 lobsters; seasoning to taste, of nutmeg, pounded mace, white pepper, and salt; 1/4 lb. of butter, 3 or 4 bay-leaves.
278. INGREDIENTS.—2 lobsters; seasoning to taste, including nutmeg, ground mace, white pepper, and salt; 1/4 lb. of butter, 3 or 4 bay leaves.
Mode.—Take out the meat carefully from the shell, but do not cut it up. Put some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay in the lobster as evenly as possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning between. Cover with butter, and bake for 3/4 hour in a gentle oven. When done, drain the whole on a sieve, and lay the pieces in potting-jars, with the seasoning about them. When cold, pour over it clarified butter, and, if very highly seasoned, it will keep some time.
Mode.—Carefully remove the meat from the shell without cutting it. Place some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay the lobster in evenly, adding bay leaves and seasoning in between. Cover it with butter and bake for 45 minutes in a low oven. Once done, drain everything in a sieve and transfer the pieces to potting jars, adding the seasoning around them. When it cools, pour clarified butter over it, and if it's well-seasoned, it will keep for a while.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 4s. 4d.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost for this amount, £4.20.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—Potted lobster may be used cold, or as fricassee with cream sauce.
Note.—Canned lobster can be served cold or used in a fricassee with cream sauce.
How the Lobster Feeds.—The pincers of the lobster's large claws are furnished with nobs, and those of the other, are always serrated. With the former, it keeps firm hold of the stalks of submarine plants, and with the latter, it cuts and minces its food with great dexterity. The knobbed, or numb claw, as it is called by fishermen, is sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left, indifferently.
How the Lobster Feeds.—The pincers of the lobster's large claws have bumps, while the other claw is always serrated. With the former, it holds onto the stems of underwater plants, and with the latter, it skillfully cuts and chops its food. The knobbed claw, as fishermen call it, is sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left, without a preference.
BAKED MACKEREL.
279. INGREDIENTS.—4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate forcemeat (see Forcemeats), 3 oz. of butter; pepper and salt to taste.
279. INGREDIENTS.—4 medium-sized mackerel, a nice delicate stuffing (see Stuffings), 3 oz. of butter; pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tails alternately, with the roes; and, between each layer, put some little pieces of butter, and pepper and salt. Bake for 1/2 an hour, and either serve with plain melted butter or a maître d'hôtel sauce.
Method.—Clean the fish, remove the roe, and stuff it with filling, then sew up the cut. Dredge with flour and arrange them in a dish, alternating heads and tails, along with the roe; between each layer, add small pieces of butter, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Bake for 30 minutes, and serve with either melted butter or a maître d'hôtel sauce.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 10d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost for this amount, £1.10.
Seasonable from April to July.
In season from April to July.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Note.—Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings (see No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine.
Note.—Baked mackerel can be prepared the same way as baked herring (see No. 268), and it can also be cooked in wine.
WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL.—The greatest weight of this fish seldom exceeds 2 lbs., whilst their ordinary length runs between 14 and 20 inches. They die almost immediately after they are taken from their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric light.
WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL.—The maximum weight of this fish usually doesn't go over 2 lbs., while their typical length ranges from 14 to 20 inches. They almost instantly die after being removed from water and briefly show a phosphorescent glow.
BOILED MACKEREL.
280. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
280. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above; bring it gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done; dish them on a hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to boiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it. (See Coloured Plate, F.)
Method.—Clean the inside of the fish thoroughly, then place it in a pot with enough water to cover it, adding salt as mentioned above; bring it to a boil gradually, skim off any foam, and let it simmer gently until cooked; serve it on a hot napkin, alternating the heads and tails, and garnish with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the typical accompaniments for boiled mackerel, but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it. (See Coloured Plate, F.)
Time.—After the water boils, 10 minutes; for large mackerel, allow more time.
Time.—Once the water is boiling, cook for 10 minutes; for large mackerel, give it more time.
Average cost, from 4d.
Average cost, starting at 4d.
Seasonable from April to July.
Available from April to July.
Note.—When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour over parsley and butter; send some of this, besides, in a tureen.
Note.—When you want some variety, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour parsley and butter over it; also, serve some of this in a tureen.
BROILED MACKEREL.
281. INGREDIENTS.—Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil.
281. INGREDIENTS.—Pepper and salt to taste, a little bit of oil.
Mode.—Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills and insides. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil it over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached from the bone, which will be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel. Chop a little parsley, work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the butter is quite melted, with a maître d'hôtel sauce in a tureen.
Mode.—You should never wash mackerel if you're going to broil it; just wipe it clean and dry after removing the gills and insides. Cut open the back and add a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil it over a clear fire, flipping it over on both sides and the back as well. Once it's cooked, which should take about 15 minutes for a small mackerel, you can pull the flesh away from the bone. Chop up a little parsley, mix it into butter with salt and pepper to taste, and add a squeeze of lemon juice, then put it in the back. Serve it before the butter fully melts, accompanied by a maître d'hôtel sauce in a tureen.
Time.—Small mackerel 15 minutes. Average cost, from 4d.
Time.—Small mackerel 15 minutes. Average cost, about 4d.
Seasonable from April to July.
Seasonal from April to July.
[Illustration: THE MACKEREL.]
[Illustration: THE MACKEREL.]
THE MACKEREL.—This is not only one of the most elegantly-formed, but one of the most beautifully-coloured fishes, when taken out of the sea, that we have. Death, in some degree, impairs the vivid splendour of its colours; but it does not entirely obliterate them. It visits the shores of Great Britain in countless shoals, appearing about March, off the Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire, about April; off Brighton in the beginning of May; and on the coast of Suffolk about the beginning of June. In the Orkneys they are seen till August; but the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England.
THE MACKEREL.—This fish is not only one of the most elegantly-shaped but also one of the most beautifully-colored fish that we have when it's fresh out of the sea. Death does dull its bright colors to some extent, but it doesn’t completely wash them out. It arrives along the shores of Great Britain in massive groups, appearing around March by the Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire around April; off Brighton at the start of May; and on the Suffolk coast at the beginning of June. In the Orkneys, they can be seen until August, but the largest fishery is located on the west coasts of England.
TO CHOOSE MACKEREL.—In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to a great extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance. If it have a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is good; but if it be red about the head, it is stale.
TO CHOOSE MACKEREL.—When selecting this fish, buyers should mainly be guided by how bright it looks. If it has a clear, silver color, the flesh is fresh; but if it is reddish near the head, it's not fresh.
FILLETS OF MACKEREL.
282. INGREDIENTS.—2 large mackerel, 1 oz. butter, 1 small bunch of chopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, No. 105, 3 tablespoonfuls of béchamel (see Sauces); salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice to taste.
282. INGREDIENTS.—2 large mackerel, 1 oz. butter, 1 small bunch of chopped herbs, 3 tablespoons of medium stock, No. 105, 3 tablespoons of béchamel (see Sauces); salt, cayenne, and lemon juice to taste.
Mode.—Clean the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them fine, and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in the mackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; take them out, and put them on a hot dish. Dredge in a little flour, add the other ingredients, give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel.
Mode.—Clean the fish and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them finely, and combine them with the butter and stock in a saucepan. Add the mackerel and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; remove them and place them on a warm plate. Sprinkle with a little flour, add the other ingredients, bring to a boil, and pour it over the mackerel.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 6d.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost for this amount, £1.50.
Seasonable from April to July.
Available from April to July.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Note.—Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs, and fried of a nice brown. Serve with maître d'hôtel sauce and plain melted butter.
Note.—Mackerel fillets can be dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, then fried until nicely browned. Serve with maître d'hôtel sauce and plain melted butter.
THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL.—The voracity of this fish is very great, and, from their immense numbers, they are bold in attacking objects of which they might, otherwise, be expected to have a wholesome dread. Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the coast of Norway, who, having gone into the sea to bathe, was suddenly missed by his companions; in the course of a few minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths. His comrades hastened in a boat to his assistance; but when they had struck the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so severely bitten, that he shortly afterward expired.
THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL.—The appetite of this fish is huge, and because there are so many of them, they are fearless when it comes to attacking things they would normally avoid. Pontoppidan shares a story about a sailor from a ship docked in one of the harbors on the coast of Norway. He went into the sea to swim and suddenly went missing. A few minutes later, he was spotted at the surface, with a lot of mackerel attached to him by their mouths. His friends rushed out in a boat to help him, but after they removed the fish and got him aboard, they discovered he had been bitten so badly that he soon died.
PICKLED MACKEREL.
283. INGREDIENTS.—12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4 mackerel.
283. INGREDIENTS.—12 peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4 mackerel.
Mode.—Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them in a dish; take half the liquor they were boiled in; add as much vinegar, peppercorns, and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cold, pour over the fish.
Mode.—Boil the mackerel following recipe No. 282, and place them in a dish; take half of the liquid they were boiled in; add vinegar, peppercorns, and bay leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cooled, pour over the fish.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
MACKEREL GARUM.—This brine, so greatly esteemed by the ancients, was manufactured from various kinds of fishes. When mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed in a small vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and then left to settle for some hours. On the following day, this was put into an earthen pot, which was uncovered, and placed in a situation to get the rays of the sun. At the end of two or three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added to it a quantity of old wine, equal to one third of the mixture.
MACKEREL GARUM.—This brine, highly valued by the ancients, was made from different types of fish. When mackerel was used, a few were put in a small container with a lot of salt, which was mixed well and then left to sit for a few hours. The next day, this mixture was transferred to an uncovered earthen pot and placed where it would get sunlight. After two or three months, it was sealed tightly, having had an amount of old wine added that was equal to one-third of the mixture.
GREY MULLET.
284. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
284. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—If the fish be very large, it should be laid in cold water, and gradually brought to a boil; if small, put it in boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Serve with anchovy sauce and plain melted butter.
Mode.—If the fish is very large, it should be placed in cold water and slowly brought to a boil; if it's small, put it in boiling water with the specified amount of salt. Serve with anchovy sauce and plain melted butter.
Time.—According to size, 1/4 to 3/4 hour.
Time.—Depending on size, 15 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Seasonable from July to October.
Available from July to October.
[Illustration: THE GREY MULLET.]
[Illustration: THE GREY MULLET.]
THE GREY MULLET.—This is quite a different fish from the red mullet, is abundant on the sandy coasts of Great Britain, and ascends rivers for miles. On the south coast it is very plentiful, and is considered a fine fish. It improves more than any other salt-water fish when kept in ponds.
THE GREY MULLET.—This fish is quite different from the red mullet, is common along the sandy shores of Great Britain, and swims upstream for miles. It is particularly abundant along the south coast and is regarded as a great fish. It gets better than any other saltwater fish when kept in ponds.
RED MULLET.
285. INGREDIENTS.—Oiled paper, thickening of butter and flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne and salt to taste.
285. INGREDIENTS.—Oiled paper, a mixture of butter and flour, 1/2 teaspoon of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne and salt to taste.
Mode.—Clean the fish, take out the gills, but leave the inside, fold in oiled paper, and bake them gently. When done, take the liquor that flows from the fish, add a thickening of butter kneaded with flour; put in the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes. Serve the sauce in a tureen, and the fish, either with or without the paper cases.
Mode.—Clean the fish, remove the gills, but leave the insides, wrap it in oiled paper, and bake it gently. When it's done, take the juices that come from the fish, add a thickening of butter mixed with flour; include the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes. Serve the sauce in a serving dish, and the fish, either with or without the paper wraps.
Time.—About 25 minutes.
Duration.—About 25 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. each.
Average price, 1s. each.
Seasonable at any time, but more plentiful in summer.
Available at any time, but more abundant in summer.
Note.—Red mullet may be broiled, and should be folded in oiled paper, the same as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt. They may be served without sauce; but if any is required, use melted butter, Italian or anchovy sauce. They should never be plain boiled.
Note.—Red mullet can be grilled and should be wrapped in oiled paper, just like in the previous recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt. They can be served without sauce; however, if sauce is desired, use melted butter, Italian sauce, or anchovy sauce. They should never be simply boiled.
[Illustration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET.]
[Illustration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET.]
THE STRIPED RED MULLET.—This fish was very highly esteemed by the ancients, especially by the Romans, who gave the most extravagant prices for it. Those of 2 lbs. weight were valued at about £15 each; those of 4 lbs. at £60, and, in the reign of Tiberius, three of them were sold for £209. To witness the changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies, was one of the principal reasons that such a high price was paid for one of these fishes. It frequents our Cornish and Sussex coasts, and is in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and well flavoured.
THE STRIPED RED MULLET.—This fish was highly valued by the ancients, particularly by the Romans, who paid extravagant prices for it. Fish weighing 2 lbs. were worth around £15 each; those weighing 4 lbs. were valued at £60, and during the reign of Tiberius, three of them sold for £209. The stunning display of their colors during their dying moments was one of the main reasons such high prices were paid for this fish. It can be found along the coasts of Cornwall and Sussex and is in high demand, as its flesh is firm, white, and well-flavored.
FRIED OYSTERS.
286. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
286. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 tablespoon ketchup, a bit of chopped lemon peel, 1/2 teaspoon chopped parsley.
Mode.—Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drain them; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; lay them on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets, and parsley. This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian dish.
Method.—Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own juice, then drain them; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon zest, and parsley; place them on a plate, and top with fried potatoes, toasted bread, and parsley. This is a tasty treat and a popular Italian dish.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 9d.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, £1.09.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Suitable for 4 people.
[Illustration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER.]
[Illustration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER.]
THE EDIBLE OYSTER:—This shell-fish is almost universally distributed near the shores of seas in all latitudes, and they especially abound on the coasts of France and Britain. The coasts most celebrated, in England, for them, are those of Essex and Suffolk. Here they are dredged up by means of a net with an iron scraper at the mouth, that is dragged by a rope from a boat over the beds. As soon as taken from their native beds, they are stored in pits, formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices, through which, at the spring tides, the water is suffered to flow. This water, being stagnant, soon becomes green in warm weather; and, in a few days afterwards, the oysters acquire the same tinge, which increases their value in the market. They do not, however, attain their perfection and become fit for sale till the end of six or eight weeks. Oysters are not considered proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old; so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale, till, at least, the September twelvemonth afterwards.
THE EDIBLE OYSTER:—This shellfish is found almost everywhere along the shores of oceans in all climate zones, with a particularly high concentration along the coasts of France and Britain. In England, the regions most famous for them are Essex and Suffolk. Here, they are collected using a net with an iron scraper at the end, which is pulled by a rope from a boat over the oyster beds. Once taken from their natural habitat, they are placed in pits designed for this purpose, equipped with sluices that allow water to flow in during spring tides. This water, if left stagnant, quickly turns green during warm weather; and within a few days, the oysters take on this color, which boosts their market value. However, they don’t reach their full quality and become ready for sale until about six to eight weeks later. Oysters aren’t considered suitable for eating until they are about a year and a half old; therefore, the offspring from one spring can't be harvested for sale until at least the following September.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
I.
287. INGREDIENTS.—Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper and salt to taste; bread crumbs, oiled butter.
287. INGREDIENTS.—Oysters, about 1 pint, 1 oz. butter, flour, 2 tablespoons of white stock, 2 tablespoons of cream; pepper and salt to taste; breadcrumbs, oiled butter.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard them, and strain the liquor free from grit. Put 1 oz. of batter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the stock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil. Put in the oysters and seasoning; let them gradually heat through, but not boil. Have ready the scallop-shells buttered; lay in the oysters, and as much of the liquid as they will hold; cover them over with bread crumbs, over which drop a little oiled butter. Brown them in the oven, or before the fire, and serve quickly, and very hot.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own juice, then remove them and trim any beards. Strain the juice to get rid of any grit. Put 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan; once it's melted, sprinkle in enough flour to absorb the fat. Add the stock, cream, and strained juice, and bring it to a boil. Stir in the oysters and seasoning; let them heat through gradually, but don’t let it boil. Prepare scallop shells by buttering them; place the oysters inside along with as much of the liquid as they can hold. Top with breadcrumbs, then drizzle a bit of melted butter on top. Brown them in the oven or in front of the fire, and serve immediately while very hot.
Time.—Altogether, 1/4 hour.
Time.—Total, 15 minutes.
Average cost for this quantity, 3s. 6d.
Average cost for this quantity is 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
II.
Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in a scallop-shell or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a few bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; place small pieces of butter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. Put sufficient bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters should not be seen.
Prepare the oysters as in the previous recipe, and place them in a scallop shell or saucer. Between each layer, sprinkle some bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Add small pieces of butter on top, and bake in a Dutch oven. Cover the top with enough bread crumbs to create a smooth surface, so the oysters aren't visible.
Time.—About 1/4 hour.
Time.—About 15 minutes.
Average cost, 3s. 2d.
Average cost, 3s 2d.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
STEWED OYSTERS.
288. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/3 pint of cream; cayenne and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded mace.
288. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/3 pint of cream; cayenne pepper and salt to taste; 1 blade of crushed mace.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard them, and strain the liquor; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace, and stir it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, add the cream, oysters, and seasoning. Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the oysters would harden. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread. A small piece of lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken out before the cream is added, will be found an improvement.
Mode.—Heat the oysters in their own juice, remove them, clean them, and strain the juice; place the butter in a saucepan, sprinkle in enough flour to absorb it, add the oyster juice and mace, and stir it over a high heat with a wooden spoon; when it starts to boil, add the cream, oysters, and seasonings. Let everything simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the oysters will become tough. Serve on a hot plate, and garnish with croutons or toasted bread slices. A small piece of lemon peel boiled with the oyster juice and removed before adding the cream will enhance the flavor.
Time.—Altogether 15 minutes.
Duration.—Total of 15 minutes.
Average cost for this quantity, 3s. 6d.
Average cost for this quantity: £0.17.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP.—The oyster is described as a bivalve shell-fish, having the valves generally unequal. The hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a somewhat oval cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves. From a similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops have been classified as one tribe; but they differ very essentially both in their external appearance and their habits. Oysters adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three species, to roots of trees on the shore; while the scallops are always detached, and usually lurk in the sand.
THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP.—The oyster is a type of bivalve shellfish, with shells that are usually uneven. The hinge has no teeth but has a somewhat oval cavity and often features lateral transverse grooves. Because of the similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops are classified as one group; however, they are very different in both their appearance and behavior. Oysters attach themselves to rocks, or in a few species, to tree roots along the shore, while scallops are always free and typically hide in the sand.
OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree).
Oyster Patties (an Entree).
289. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste.
289. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 3 tablespoons of cream, a little lemon juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut each one into 3 pieces. Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the strained oyster-liquor with the other ingredients; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually, but not boil fast. Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties, No. 277: fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own juice, remove the beards, and cut each one into 3 pieces. Put the butter in a saucepan, sprinkle in enough flour to absorb it; add the strained oyster juice along with the other ingredients; add the oysters, and let them warm up gradually, but don’t let it boil hard. Make the patty shells as instructed for lobster patties, No. 277: fill them with the oyster mixture, and put the covers back on.
Time.—2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture.
Time.—2 minutes for the oysters to cook in the mixture.
Average cost, exclusive of the patty-cases, 1s. 1d.
Average cost, not including the patty cases, 1s. 1d.
Seasonable from September to April.
Seasonal from September to April.
THE OYSTER FISHERY.—The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed of so much importance, that it is regulated by a Court of Admiralty. In the month of May, the fishermen are allowed to take the oysters, in order to separate the spawn from the cultch, the latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the bed for the future. After this month, it is felony to carry away the cultch, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster, between the shells of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle.
THE OYSTER FISHERY.—The oyster fishery in Britain is considered so important that it is regulated by a Court of Admiralty. In May, fishermen are permitted to collect oysters to separate the spawn from the cultch, which is then thrown back into the water to protect the bed for the future. After this month, taking the cultch is a serious crime, and it is also punishable to take any oyster that, when its shells are closed, can shake a shilling inside.
TO KEEP OYSTERS.
290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water. Let them remain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed to stand for another 12 hours without water. If left without water every alternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly kept in it. Never put the same water twice to them.
290. Put them in a tub and cover them with salt and water. Let them sit for 12 hours, then take them out and let them rest for another 12 hours without water. If you let them stay without water for every other 12 hours, they will turn out much better than if they are always kept in it. Never use the same water on them twice.
OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER.
291. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, sufficient flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard.
291. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, enough flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; if desired, a little nutmeg; hot lard.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay them on a cloth, to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix the flour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and put the oysters in the batter. Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan, put in the oysters, one at a time; when done, take them up with a sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin. Fried oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few bread crumbs should be added to the flour.
Mode.—Scald the oysters in their own juice, remove the beards, and place them on a cloth to drain completely. Crack the eggs into a bowl, mix in the flour, gradually add the milk, along with nutmeg and seasoning, then add the oysters to the batter. Heat some lard in a deep frying pan, then add the oysters one at a time; once they're cooked, pick them up with a sharp skewer and serve them on a napkin. Fried oysters are often used as a garnish for boiled fish, in which case you should mix a few breadcrumbs with the flour.
Time.—5 or 6 minutes.
Duration.—5 or 6 minutes.
Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 10d.
Average cost for this amount, 1.10.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Good for 3 people.
EXCELLENCE OF THE ENGLISH OYSTER.—The French assert that the English oysters, which are esteemed the best in Europe, were originally procured from Cancalle Bay, near St. Malo; but they assign no proof for this. It is a fact, however, that the oysters eaten in ancient Rome were nourished in the channel which then parted the Isle of Thanet from England, and which has since been filled up, and converted into meadows.
EXCELLENCE OF THE ENGLISH OYSTER.—The French claim that the English oysters, regarded as the best in Europe, originally came from Cancalle Bay, near St. Malo; however, they provide no evidence for this. It is true, though, that the oysters consumed in ancient Rome were grown in the channel that once separated the Isle of Thanet from England, which has since been filled in and turned into meadows.
BOILED PERCH.
292. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
292. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Scale the fish, take out the gills and clean it thoroughly; lay it in boiling water, salted as above, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. If the fish is very large, longer time must be allowed. Garnish with parsley, and serve with plain melted butter, or Dutch sauce. Perch do not preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when dressed in any other way.
Method.—Scale the fish, remove the gills, and clean it well; place it in boiling salted water as mentioned, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. If the fish is very large, you’ll need to cook it for a longer time. Garnish with parsley and serve with plain melted butter or Dutch sauce. Perch doesn’t taste as good when stewed compared to other preparation methods.
Time.—Middling-sized perch, 1/4 hour.
Time.—Medium-sized perch, 15 minutes.
Seasonable from September to November.
Seasonal from September to November.
Note.—Tench may be boiled the same way, and served with the same sauces.
Note.—You can boil tench the same way and serve it with the same sauces.
[Illustration: THE PERCH.]
[Illustration: THE PERCH.]
THE PERCH.—This is one of the best, as it is one of the most common, of our fresh-water fishes, and is found in nearly all the lakes and rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as through the whole of Europe within the temperate zone. It is extremely voracious, and it has the peculiarity of being gregarious, which is contrary to the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey. The best season to angle for it is from the beginning of May to the middle of July. Large numbers of this fish are bred in the Hampton Court and Bushy Park ponds, all of which are well supplied with running water and with plenty of food; yet they rarely attain a large size. In the Regent's Park they are also very numerous; but are seldom heavier than three quarters of a pound.
THE PERCH.—This is one of the best, as well as one of the most common, of our freshwater fish, and it can be found in almost all the lakes and rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as throughout Europe in the temperate zone. It is extremely hungry, and it has the unusual behavior of being social, which goes against the nature of most freshwater predatory fish. The best time to fish for them is from early May to mid-July. Large numbers of this fish are raised in the Hampton Court and Bushy Park ponds, both of which are well-supplied with flowing water and plenty of food; however, they rarely grow to a large size. In Regent's Park, they are also very abundant, but they are seldom heavier than three-quarters of a pound.
FRIED PERCH.
293. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.
293. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs and breadcrumbs, hot lard.
Mode.—Scale and clean the fish, brush it over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs. Have ready some boiling lard; put the fish in, and fry a nice brown. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce.
Mode.—Scale and clean the fish, coat it with egg, and cover it with bread crumbs. Have some boiling oil ready; place the fish in, and fry until it’s a nice brown. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
Seasonable from September to November.
In season from September to November.
Note.—Fry tench in the same way.
Note.—Fry tench in the same way.
PERCH STEWED WITH WINE.
294. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of stock No. 105 and sherry, 1 bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce.
294. INGREDIENTS.—Equal amounts of stock No. 105 and sherry, 1 bay leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon of anchovy sauce.
Mode.—Scale the fish and take out the gills, and clean them thoroughly; lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry just to cover them. Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and salt, and simmer till tender. When done, take out the fish, strain the liquor, add a thickening of butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg, and the anchovy sauce, and stir it over the fire until somewhat reduced, when pour over the fish, and serve.
Mode.—Scale the fish, remove the gills, and clean them well; place them in a saucepan with enough stock and sherry to cover them. Add the bay leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and salt, and simmer until tender. Once cooked, remove the fish, strain the liquid, add a thickener made of butter and flour, along with the pepper, nutmeg, and anchovy sauce, and stir it over the heat until slightly reduced. Then pour it over the fish and serve.
Time.—About 20 minutes.
Duration.—About 20 minutes.
Seasonable from September to November.
Seasonal from September to November.
BOILED PIKE.
295. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water; a little vinegar.
295. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for each gallon of water; a bit of vinegar.
Mode.—Scale and clean the pike, and fasten the tail in its mouth by means of a skewer. Lay it in cold water, and when it boils, throw in the salt and vinegar. The time for boiling depends, of course, on the size of the fish; but a middling-sized pike will take about 1/2 an hour. Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter.
Mode.—Scale and clean the pike, then secure the tail in its mouth using a skewer. Place it in cold water, and when it starts to boil, add the salt and vinegar. The cooking time will depend on the size of the fish; however, a medium-sized pike will take approximately 30 minutes. Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, along with plain melted butter.
Time.—According to size, 1/2 to 1 hour.—Average cost. Seldom bought.
Time.—By duration, 1/2 to 1 hour.—Average cost. Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from September to March.
Open from September to March.
[Illustration: THE PIKE.]
[Illustration: THE PIKE.]
THE PIKE.—This fish is, on account of its voracity, termed the freshwater shark, and is abundant in most of the European lakes, especially those of the northern parts. It grows to an immense size, some attaining to the measure of eight feet, in Lapland and Russia. The smaller lakes, of this country and Ireland, vary in the kinds of fish they produce; some affording trout, others pike; and so on. Where these happen to be together, however, the trout soon becomes extinct. "Within a short distance of Castlebar," says a writer on sports, "there is a small bog-lake called Derreens. Ten years ago it was celebrated for its numerous well-sized trouts. Accidentally pike effected a passage into the lake from the Minola river, and now the trouts are extinct, or, at least, none of them are caught or seen. Previous to the intrusion of the pikes, half a dozen trouts would be killed in an evening in Derreens, whose collective weight often amounted to twenty pounds." As an eating fish, the pike is in general dry.
THE PIKE.—This fish is often called the freshwater shark due to its aggressive nature and is found in most European lakes, especially in the northern regions. It can grow to be very large, with some reaching up to eight feet in Lapland and Russia. The smaller lakes in this country and Ireland produce a variety of fish; some have trout, others have pike, and so on. However, where both coexist, the trout quickly disappears. "Not far from Castlebar," says a writer on sports, "there's a small bog-lake called Derreens. Ten years ago, it was known for its many well-sized trout. Accidentally, pike managed to get into the lake from the Minola river, and now the trout are gone, or at least, no one catches or sees them anymore. Before the pike arrived, half a dozen trout would be caught in one evening in Derreens, often totaling about twenty pounds." As for eating, pike is generally quite dry.
BAKED PIKE.
296. INGREDIENTS.—1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate stuffing (see Forcemeats), 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. butter.
296. INGREDIENTS.—1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate stuffing (see Forcemeats), 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. butter.
Mode.—Scale the fish, take out the gills, wash, and wipe it thoroughly dry; stuff it with forcemeat, sew it up, and fasten the tail in the mouth by means of a skewer; brush it over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and baste with butter, before putting it in the oven, which must be well heated. When the pike is of a nice brown colour, cover it with buttered paper, as the outside would become too dry. If 2 are dressed, a little variety may be made by making one of them green with a little chopped parsley mixed with the bread crumbs. Serve anchovy or Dutch sauce, and plain melted butter with it.
Mode.—Scale the fish, remove the gills, wash it, and dry it thoroughly; stuff it with filling, sew it shut, and secure the tail in the mouth with a skewer; brush it with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and baste with butter before placing it in a well-heated oven. When the pike is nicely browned, cover it with buttered paper to prevent the outside from getting too dry. If you're preparing two, you can add some variety by mixing a little chopped parsley with the breadcrumbs for one of them. Serve with anchovy or Dutch sauce and plain melted butter.
Time.—According to size, 1 hour, more or less.
Time.—About 1 hour, give or take.
Average cost.—Seldom bought.
Average cost.—Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from September to March.
In season from September to March.
Note.—Pike à la génévese may be stewed in the same manner as salmon à la génévese.
Note.—Pike à la génévese can be stewed just like salmon à la génévese.
FRIED PLAICE.
297.—INGREDIENTS.—Hot lard, or clarified dripping; egg and bread crumbs.
297.—INGREDIENTS.—Hot lard or clarified fat; egg and bread crumbs.
Mode.—This fish is fried in the same manner as soles. Wash and wipe them thoroughly dry, and let them remain in a cloth until it is time to dress them. Brush them over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs mixed with a little flour. Fry of a nice brown in hot dripping or lard, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. Send them to table with shrimp-sauce and plain melted butter.
Mode.—This fish is fried just like soles. Wash them well and dry them completely, then let them sit in a cloth until you're ready to cook. Brush them with egg and coat them with breadcrumbs mixed with a bit of flour. Fry until golden brown in hot oil or lard, and garnish with fried parsley and lemon wedges. Serve with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.
Time.—About 5 minutes. Average cost, 3d. each.
Time.—About 5 minutes. Average cost, 3d. each.
Seasonable from May to November.
Available from May to November.
Sufficient, 4 plaice for 4 persons.
Sufficient, 4 plaice for 4 people.
Note.—Plaice may be boiled plain, and served with melted butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon.
Note.—You can boil plaice simply and serve it with melted butter. Garnish with parsley and lemon wedges.
STEWED PLAICE.
298. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, 1/2 oz. ground ginger, 1 pint of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint water, 6 eggs; cayenne to taste.
298. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, 1/2 oz. ground ginger, 1 pint of lemon juice, 1/4 pint water, 6 eggs; cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, salt them, and let them remain 1/4 hour. Slice and fry the onions a light brown; put them in a stewpan, on the top of which put the fish without washing, and add the ginger, lemon-juice, and water. Cook slowly for 1/2 hour, and do not let the fish boil, or it will break. Take it out, and when the liquor is cool, add 6 well-beaten eggs; simmer till it thickens, when pour over the fish, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, sprinkle them with salt, and let them sit for 15 minutes. Slice and fry the onions until they’re light brown; place them in a saucepan, then add the fish without rinsing it, along with the ginger, lemon juice, and water. Cook slowly for 30 minutes, making sure the fish doesn’t boil, or it will fall apart. Remove it, and when the liquid cools down, add 6 well-beaten eggs; simmer until it thickens, then pour it over the fish, and serve.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 9d.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost for this amount, £0.09.
Seasonable from May to November.
Available from May to November.
Sufficient for 4 persons; according to size.
Enough for 4 people; based on size.
[Illustration: THE PLAICE.]
[Illustration: THE PLAICE.]
THE PLAICE.—This fish is found both in the Baltic and the Mediterranean, and is also abundant on the coast of England. It keeps well, and, like all ground-fish, is very tenacious of life. Its flesh is inferior to that of the sole, and, as it is a low-priced fish, it is generally bought by the poor. The best brought to the London market are called Dowers plaice, from their being caught in the Dowers, or flats, between Hastings and Folkstone.
THE PLAICE.—This fish is found in both the Baltic and the Mediterranean, and is also common along the coast of England. It stays fresh for a long time, and like all bottom-dwelling fish, it is very resilient. Its meat is not as good as that of the sole, and since it is a low-cost fish, it is usually purchased by those with limited budgets. The best ones that come to the London market are referred to as Dowers plaice, named after the areas where they are caught in the Dowers, or flats, between Hastings and Folkstone.
TO BOIL PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.
299. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water.
299. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn under the tail; much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked. Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep them boiling for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way; but less time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not over-boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible.
Mode.—Prawns should be bright red and have no eggs under the tail; their freshness and the cooking method are crucial. Add them to boiling salted water, as mentioned earlier, and keep them boiling for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be cooked the same way, but for a shorter time. You can easily tell when they are done by their color change. Be careful not to overcook them, as they will become bland and hard to digest.
Time.—Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes.
Time.—Prawns, around 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes.
Average cost, prawns, 2s. per lb.; shrimps, 6d. per pint.
Average cost, prawns, 2 shillings per pound; shrimps, 6 pence per pint.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
TO DRESS PRAWNS.
300. Cover a dish with a large cup reversed, and over that lay a small white napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in the form of a pyramid, and garnish with plenty of parsley.
300. Cover a dish with a large cup turned upside down, and on top of that, place a small white napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in a pyramid shape and garnish with plenty of parsley.
BOILED SALMON.
301. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water,—sufficient water to cover the fish.
301. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of salt for every gallon of water,—enough water to cover the fish.
Mode.—Scale and clean the fish, and be particular that no blood is left inside; lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it, adding salt in the above proportion. Bring it quickly to a boil, take off all the scum, and let it simmer gently till the fish is done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. Experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish; but it is especially to be remembered, that it should never be underdressed, as then nothing is more unwholesome. Neither let it remain in the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, as that would render it insipid, watery, and colourless. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few minutes, keep it warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of dressed cucumber usually accompanies this fish.
Mode.—Scale and clean the fish, making sure no blood is left inside; place it in a pot with enough cold water to cover it, adding salt as needed. Bring it to a boil quickly, remove all the scum, and let it simmer gently until the fish is cooked, which will be when the meat easily separates from the bone. Experience will teach the cook how long to boil the fish, but it’s crucial to remember that it should never be undercooked, as that can make it unhealthy. Also, do not leave it in the pot after it’s fully cooked, as that will make it bland, watery, and dull in color. Drain it, and if it won't be needed for a few minutes, keep it warm by covering it with warm cloths. Serve it on a hot napkin, garnish with sliced lemon and parsley, and offer lobster or shrimp sauce, along with plain melted butter on the side. A dish of dressed cucumber usually goes well with this fish.
Time.—8 minutes to each lb. for large thick salmon; 6 minutes for thin fish. Average cost, in full season, 1s. 3d. per lb.
Time.—8 minutes per pound for large thick salmon; 6 minutes for thin fish. Average cost, in peak season, 1s. 3d. per pound.
Seasonable from April to August.
Summer months from April to August.
Sufficient, 1/2 lb., or rather less, for each person.
Sufficient, about 0.5 lb., or a little less, for each person.
Note.—Cut lemon should be put on the table with this fish; and a little of the juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable addition. Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially adapted to be served with salmon.
Note.—A cut lemon should be placed on the table with this fish, and many people find that a little of the juice squeezed over it is a really nice addition. Some connoisseurs also believe that boiled peas are particularly well-suited to be served with salmon.
TO CHOOSE SALMON.—To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, which may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger. The circumstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standing rule in most cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all to be relied on, as this quality can be easily given them by art.
TO CHOOSE SALMON.—For the best quality, the belly should feel firm and thick, which you can easily check by squeezing it with your thumb and finger. While many cookbooks say that red gills are a sign of fresh salmon, you shouldn't rely on this, as it's something that can easily be enhanced artificially.
SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE.
302. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of salmon, 1/4 lb. batter, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 shalot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.
302. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of salmon, 1/4 lb. batter, 1/2 teaspoon of chopped parsley, 1 shallot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter over it, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning into the fish; baste it frequently; when done, take it out and drain for a minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very delicious.
Method.—Place the salmon in a baking dish, put pieces of butter on top, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a bit of the seasoning into the fish; baste it often. Once it's done, take it out and let it drain for a minute or two; then transfer it to a plate, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon prepared this way, with tomato sauce, is really delicious.
Time.—About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d. per lb.
Time.—About 45 minutes. Average cost, $0.70 per lb.
Seasonable from April to August.
Available from April to August.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Suitable for 4 or 5 people.
THE MIGRATORY HABITS OF THE SALMON.—The instinct with which the salmon revisits its native river, is one of the most curious circumstances in its natural history. As the swallow returns annually to its nest, so it returns to the same spot to deposit its ova. This fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved. M. De Lande fastened a copper ring round a salmon's tail, and found that, for three successive seasons, it returned to the same place. Dr. Bloch states that gold and silver rings have been attached by eastern princes to salmon, to prove that a communication existed between the Persian Gulf and the Caspian and Northern Seas, and that the experiment succeeded.
THE MIGRATORY HABITS OF THE SALMON.—The instinct that drives the salmon to return to its native river is one of the most fascinating aspects of its natural history. Just like the swallow comes back to its nest every year, the salmon returns to the same location to lay its eggs. This fact seems to have been consistently demonstrated. M. De Lande attached a copper ring to a salmon's tail and discovered that for three consecutive seasons, it went back to the same spot. Dr. Bloch mentions that eastern princes used to attach gold and silver rings to salmon to show that there was a connection between the Persian Gulf and the Caspian and Northern Seas, and that this experiment was successful.
COLLARED SALMON.
303. INGREDIENTS.—A piece of salmon, say 3 lbs., a high seasoning of salt, pounded mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, 3 bay-leaves.
303. INGREDIENTS.—A piece of salmon, about 3 lbs., a heavy seasoning of salt, ground mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, 3 bay leaves.
Mode.—Split the fish; scale, bone, and wash it thoroughly clean; wipe it, and rub in the seasoning inside and out; roll it up, and bind firmly; lay it in a kettle, cover it with vinegar and water (1/3 vinegar, in proportion to the water); add the bay-leaves and a good seasoning of salt and whole pepper, and simmer till done. Do not remove the lid. Serve with melted butter or anchovy sauce. For preserving the collared fish, boil up the liquor in which it was cooked, and add a little more vinegar. Pour over when cold.
Mode.—Clean the fish by scaling, boning, and washing it thoroughly. Dry it, then rub seasoning inside and out. Roll it up tightly and secure it. Place it in a pot, covering it with a mixture of vinegar and water (1/3 vinegar to water). Add bay leaves and a good amount of salt and whole pepper, then let it simmer until cooked. Keep the lid on while cooking. Serve with melted butter or anchovy sauce. To preserve the collared fish, boil the liquid it was cooked in and add a little more vinegar. Pour it over once it's cold.
Time.—3/4 hour, or rather more.
Time.—About 45 minutes.
HABITAT OF THE SALMON.—The salmon is styled by Walton the "king of fresh-water fish," and is found distributed over the north of Europe and Asia, from Britain to Kamschatka, but is never found in warm latitudes, nor has it ever been caught even so far south as the Mediterranean. It lives in fresh as well as in salt waters, depositing its spawn in the former, hundreds of miles from the mouths of some of those rivers to which it has been known to resort. In 1859, great efforts were made to introduce this fish into the Australian colonies; and it is believed that the attempt, after many difficulties, which were very skilfully overcome, has been successful.
HABITAT OF THE SALMON.—The salmon is referred to by Walton as the "king of fresh-water fish" and is found throughout northern Europe and Asia, from Britain to Kamchatka, but is never found in warm areas, nor has it ever been caught as far south as the Mediterranean. It lives in both fresh and salt waters, laying its eggs in the former, hundreds of miles from the mouths of some rivers where it is known to go. In 1859, significant efforts were made to introduce this fish into the Australian colonies, and it is believed that the attempt, after overcoming many challenges very skillfully, has been successful.
CRIMPED SALMON.
304. Salmon is frequently dressed in this way at many fashionable tables, but must be very fresh, and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick. Lay these in cold salt and water for 1 hour; have ready some boiling water, salted, as in recipe No. 301, and well skimmed; put in the fish, and simmer gently for 1/4 hour, or rather more; should it be very thick, garnish the same as boiled salmon, and serve with the same sauces.
304. Salmon is often prepared this way at many trendy dinner tables, but it must be very fresh and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick. Soak these in cold saltwater for 1 hour; have some boiling salted water ready, as in recipe No. 301, and make sure it's well skimmed; add the fish and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, or a little longer if it’s very thick. Garnish it the same way as boiled salmon and serve with the same sauces.
Time.—1/4 hour, more or less, according to size.
Time.—15 minutes, give or take, depending on size.
Note.—Never use vinegar with salmon, as it spoils the taste and colour of the fish.
Note.—Never use vinegar with salmon, as it ruins the taste and color of the fish.
[Illustration: THE SALMON.]
[Illustration: THE SALMON.]
THE SALMON TRIBE.—This is the Abdominal fish, forming the fourth of the orders of Linnaeus. They are distinguished from the other fishes by having two dorsal fins, of which the hindmost is fleshy and without rays. They have teeth both on the tongue and in the jaws, whilst the body is covered with round and minutely striated scales.
THE SALMON TRIBE.—This is the Abdominal fish, which is the fourth order according to Linnaeus. They stand out from other fish by having two dorsal fins, with the back one being fleshy and rayless. They have teeth on both the tongue and in the jaws, and their bodies are covered with round, finely striated scales.
CURRIED SALMON.
305. INGREDIENTS.—Any remains of boiled salmon, 3/4 pint of strong or medium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. of butter, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
305. INGREDIENTS.—Any leftover boiled salmon, 3/4 pint of strong or medium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, 1 teaspoon of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoon of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. of butter, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne pepper, and salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut up the onions into small pieces, and fry them of a pale brown in the butter; add all the ingredients but the salmon, and simmer gently till the onion is tender, occasionally stirring the contents; cut the salmon into small square pieces, carefully take away all skin and bone, lay it in the stewpan, and let it gradually heat through; but do not allow it to boil long.
Mode.—Chop the onions into small pieces and sauté them in butter until they're light brown. Add all the ingredients except the salmon, and let it simmer gently until the onions are tender, stirring occasionally. Cut the salmon into small square pieces, making sure to remove all skin and bones, then add it to the saucepan and let it heat through gradually; but be careful not to let it boil for too long.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 9d.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold fish, 9d.
GROWTH OF THE SALMON.—At the latter end of the year—some as soon as November—salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as they can reach, in order to deposit their spawn, which they do in the sand or gravel, about eighteen inches deep. Here it lies buried till the spring, when, about the latter end of March, it begins to exclude the young, which gradually increase to four or five inches in length, and are then termed smelts or smouts. About the beginning of May, the river seems to be alive with them, and there is no forming an idea of their numbers without having seen them. A seasonable flood, however, comes, and hurries them to the "great deep;" whence, about the middle of June, they commence their return to the river again. By this time they are twelve or sixteen inches long, and progressively increase, both in number and size, till about the end of July, when they have become large enough to be denominated grilse. Early in August they become fewer in numbers, but of greater size, haying advanced to a weight of from six to nine pounds. This rapidity of growth appears surprising, and realizes the remark of Walton, that "the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short a time as a gosling becomes a goose." Recent writers have, however, thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of the salmon.
GROWTH OF THE SALMON.—At the end of the year—some as early as November—salmon start swimming upstream as far as they can go to lay their eggs, which they do in the sand or gravel about eighteen inches deep. The eggs stay buried until spring, when, around late March, they begin to hatch into young fish, which gradually grow to four or five inches long and are then called smelts or smouts. By early May, the river is teeming with them, and it's hard to even imagine their numbers without having seen them. A timely flood, however, comes and sweeps them out to the "great deep;" then, around mid-June, they start their journey back to the river. By this time, they're twelve to sixteen inches long and continue to grow in both number and size until the end of July, when they get big enough to be called grilse. Early in August, they become less numerous but larger, weighing between six to nine pounds. This rapid growth is surprising and aligns with Walton's remark that "the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short a time as a gosling becomes a goose." However, recent writers have cast significant doubt on this quick growth of the salmon.
SALMON CUTLETS.
306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper and salt; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with their ends twisted; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few chopped herbs and a little spice.
306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick and season them with salt and pepper; butter a sheet of white paper, place each slice on a separate piece with their ends twisted; broil gently over a clear flame, and serve with anchovy or caper sauce. If you want bolder flavors, add some chopped herbs and a bit of spice.
Time.—5 to 10 minutes.
Duration.—5 to 10 minutes.
SALMON A LA GENEVESE.
307. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shalots, a little parsley, a small bunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, 1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
307. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shallots, a bit of parsley, a small bunch of herbs, 2 bay leaves, 2 carrots, ground mace, pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoons of Madeira, 1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), a mixture of butter and flour for thickening, 1 teaspoon of anchovy essence, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Rub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter, and put in the shalots, herbs, bay-leaves, carrots, mace, and seasoning; stir them for 10 minutes over a clear fire, and add the Madeira or sherry; simmer gently for 1/2 hour, and strain through a sieve over the fish, which stew in this gravy. As soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked, take away all the liquor, except a little to keep the salmon moist, and put it into another stewpan; add the stock, thicken with butter and flour, and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, cayenne, and salt; lay the salmon on a hot dish, pour over it part of the sauce, and serve the remainder in a tureen.
Mode.—Grease the bottom of a saucepan with butter and add the shallots, herbs, bay leaves, carrots, mace, and seasonings; stir them for 10 minutes over a medium heat, then add the Madeira or sherry. Simmer gently for 30 minutes, and strain through a sieve over the fish, which should be cooked in this sauce. Once the fish is cooked through, remove most of the liquid, keeping a little to keep the salmon moist, and transfer it to another saucepan; add the stock, thicken with butter and flour, then mix in the anchovies, lemon juice, cayenne, and salt. Place the salmon on a warm dish, pour some of the sauce over it, and serve the rest in a separate bowl.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 3s. 6d.
Time.—1 hour and 15 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, 3 shillings and 6 pence.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
PICKLED SALMON.
308. INGREDIENTS.—Salmon, 1/2 oz. of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. of whole allspice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled.
308. INGREDIENTS.—Salmon, 1/2 oz. of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. of whole allspice, 1 teaspoon of salt, 2 bay leaves, equal amounts of vinegar and the liquid used to boil the fish.
Mode.—After the fish comes from table, lay it in a nice dish with a cover to it, as it should be excluded from the air, and take away the bone; boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10 minutes, and let it stand to get cold; pour it over the salmon, and in 12 hours this will be fit for the table.
Mode.—After the fish is taken off the table, place it in a nice dish with a cover to keep it sealed from the air, and remove the bones. Boil the liquid and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10 minutes, then let it cool. Pour it over the salmon, and in 12 hours it will be ready to serve.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
TO CURE SALMON.—This process consists in splitting the fish, rubbing it with salt, and then putting it into pickle in tubs provided for the purpose. Here it is kept for about six weeks, when it is taken out, pressed and packed in casks, with layers of salt.
TO CURE SALMON.—This process involves cutting the fish in half, rubbing it with salt, and then placing it in a brine solution in tubs designed for this purpose. It is kept there for about six weeks, after which it is removed, pressed, and packed in barrels, layered with salt.
POTTED SALMON.
309. INGREDIENTS.—Salmon; pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste; 3 bay-leaves, 1/4 lb. butter.
309. INGREDIENTS.—Salmon; crushed mace, cloves, and pepper to taste; 3 bay leaves, 1/4 lb. butter.
Mode.—Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth (water would spoil it); cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt; let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with the other ingredients, and bake. When quite done, drain them from the gravy, press into pots for use, and, when cold, pour over it clarified butter.
Mode.—Skin the salmon and clean it well by wiping it with a cloth (water will ruin it); cut it into square pieces and rub them with salt; let them sit until fully drained, then put them in a dish with the other ingredients and bake. When completely cooked, drain them from the gravy, press into jars for storage, and when cold, pour clarified butter over it.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Duration.—30 minutes.
AN AVERSION IN THE SALMON.—The salmon is said to have an aversion to anything red; hence, fishermen engaged in catching it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour. Pontoppidan also says, that it has an abhorrence of carrion, and if any happens to be thrown into the places it haunts, it immediately forsakes them. The remedy adopted for this in Norway, is to throw into the polluted water a lighted torch. As food, salmon, when in perfection, is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our fish.
AN AVERSION IN THE SALMON.—The salmon is said to dislike anything red; as a result, fishermen who catch it avoid wearing jackets or caps of that color. Pontoppidan also notes that it has a strong dislike for decaying matter, and if any is thrown into its habitat, it quickly leaves. The solution used in Norway is to throw a lit torch into the contaminated water. When it's at its best, salmon is one of the most delicious and nutritious fish we have.
BAKED SEA-BREAM.
310. INGREDIENTS.—1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and cayenne; 1/4 lb. of butter.
310. INGREDIENTS.—1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and cayenne; 1/4 lb. of butter.
Mode.—Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe away all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside and out with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than 1/2 an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a great improvement.
Mode.—Thoroughly clean the bream, but leave the scales on, and dry it completely with a clean cloth. Season both the inside and outside with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and place it in a baking dish. Dot small pieces of butter on the fish, and bake for just over 30 minutes. Stuffing the fish before baking will be a nice enhancement.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 an hour.
Time.—A little over half an hour.
Seasonable in summer.
Good in summer.
[Illustration: THE SEA-BREAM.]
[Illustration: THE SEA BREAM.]
Note.—This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine.
Note.—This fish can be grilled over a clean fire and served with a tasty brown gravy or white sauce, or it can be simmered in wine.
THE SEA-BREAM.—This is an abundant fish in Cornwall, and it is frequently found in the fish-market of Hastings during the summer months, but it is not in much esteem.
THE SEA-BREAM.—This fish is plentiful in Cornwall and is often seen in the fish market of Hastings during the summer months, but it isn’t very popular.
MR. YARRELL'S RECIPE.
"When thoroughly cleansed, the fish should be wiped dry, but none of the scales should be taken off. In this state it should be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle beneath, saturated in its own natural juices, which the outside covering has retained, will be of good flavour."
"When they’re completely cleaned, the fish should be patted dry, but none of the scales should be removed. In this condition, it should be grilled, turning it often, and if the skin splits, lightly flour it to keep the outer layer intact. When served, the entire skin and scales come off easily, and the flesh underneath, soaked in its own natural juices that the outer layer has held in, will taste great."
TO DRESS SHAD.
311. INGREDIENTS.—1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt.
311. INGREDIENTS.—1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt.
Mode.—Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or three incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let it remain in oil for 1/2 hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve with caper sauce. This fish is much esteemed by the French, and by them is considered excellent.
Mode.—Scale, clean, and wash the fish thoroughly, then make two or three cuts across its back. Season it with salt and pepper, and let it marinate in oil for half an hour. Grill it on both sides over a hot fire, and serve it with caper sauce. The French highly value this fish, considering it to be exceptional.
Time.—Nearly 1 hour.
Duration.—Almost 1 hour.
Average cost.—Seldom bought.
Average cost.—Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from April to June.
Seasonal from April to June.
[Illustration: THE SHAD.]
[Illustration: THE SHAD.]
THE SHAD.—This is a salt-water fish, but is held in little esteem. It enters our rivers to spawn in May, and great numbers of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the Thames.
THE SHAD.—This is a saltwater fish, but it's not very highly regarded. It swims into our rivers to spawn in May, and large numbers of them are caught near the Isle of Dogs in the Thames.
POTTED SHRIMPS.
312. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of shelled shrimps, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg.
312. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of shelled shrimp, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 blade of ground mace, cayenne pepper to taste; if desired, a little nutmeg.
Mode.—Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with the other ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in the butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold, cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.
Mode.—Have a pint of cleaned shrimp ready, and place them, along with the other ingredients, into a saucepan; let them warm slowly in the butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small containers, and when cool, cover with melted butter, making sure to keep the air out.
Time.—1/4 hour to soak in the butter.
Time.—15 minutes to soak in the butter.
Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 3d.
Average cost for this amount, £0.06.
BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.
313. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, 3/4 pint of stock No. 104, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste.
313. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cleaned prawns or shrimp, 3/4 pint of stock No. 104, thickened with butter and flour; salt, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with the stock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gently for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted sippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy.
Mode.—Take the prawns or shrimps and place them in a saucepan with the stock; add a mixture of butter and flour to thicken it; season, and let it simmer gently for 3 minutes. Serve on a plate decorated with fried bread or toasted sippets. You can use cream sauce instead of the gravy.
Time.—3 minutes.
Duration.—3 minutes.
Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 4d.
Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 4d.
[Illustration: THE SHRIMP.]
[Illustration: THE SHRIMP.]
THE SHRIMP.—This shell-fish is smaller than the prawn, and is greatly relished in London as a delicacy. It inhabits most of the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is especially famous for them.
THE SHRIMP.—This shellfish is smaller than the prawn and is highly enjoyed in London as a delicacy. It can be found along most sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is particularly famous for them.
BOILED SKATE.
314. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
314. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it simmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce.
Mode.—Clean and peel the skate, place it in a fish kettle with enough water to cover it, salted as described above. Let it simmer gently until cooked; then serve it on a hot napkin with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce.
Time.—According to size, from 1/2 to 1 hour. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Time.—Depending on size, from 1/2 to 1 hour. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Seasonable from August to April.
Available from August to April.
CRIMPED SKATE.
315. INGREDIENTS.—1/8 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
315. INGREDIENTS.—1/8 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tie round with string. Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish, and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hot napkin, and serve with the same sauces as above. Skate should never be eaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and other diseases. It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over.
Method.—Clean, skin, and slice the fish, then roll each slice and tie it with string. Prepare some water that’s heavily salted, add the fish, and boil until fully cooked. Drain well, take off the string, plate it on a warm napkin, and serve with the same sauces mentioned earlier. Skate should not be eaten out of season, as it can cause diarrhea and other illnesses. It can also be served without a napkin, with the sauce poured over it.
Time.—About 20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Time.—Approximately 20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Seasonable from August to April.
Available from August to April.
TO CHOOSE SKATE.—This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth, and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. When crimped, it should not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped fish soon become sour.
TO CHOOSE SKATE.—This fish should be selected for its firmness, width, and thickness, and it should have a creamy look. When crimped, it should not be stored longer than a day or two, as all types of crimped fish quickly spoil.
[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE.]
[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE.]
THE SKATE.—This is one of the ray tribe, and is extremely abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of England. The flesh is white, thick, and nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of its nutritive properties, and the ease with which it is digested. It is much improved by crimping; in which state it is usually sold in London. The THORNBACK differs from the true skate by having large spines in its back, of which the other is destitute. It is taken in great abundance during the spring and summer months, but its flesh is not so good as it is in November. It is, in regard to quality, inferior to that of the true skate.
THE SKATE.—This is one of the ray family and is very common and inexpensive in the fishing towns of England. The meat is white, thick, and nutritious; however, because it’s so abundant, it’s often valued less than it should be due to its healthy properties and the ease with which it can be digested. It tastes much better when crimped, which is how it's usually sold in London. The THORNBACK differs from the true skate by having large spines on its back, which the other lacks. It’s caught in large quantities during the spring and summer months, but the meat isn’t as good as it is in November. In terms of quality, it’s inferior to that of the true skate.
SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (a la Francaise)
SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (French style)
316. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover the fish.
316. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, 2 bay leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, enough water to cover the fish.
Mode.—Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer the skate in them till tender. When it is done, skin it neatly, and pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling. Drain it, put it on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the latter to table in a tureen.
Mode.—Place all the ingredients in a fish kettle and simmer the skate until it is tender. Once it's cooked, carefully skin it and pour some of the broth it was boiling in over it. Drain it, put it on a warm plate, pour caper sauce over it, and serve some of the sauce separately in a tureen.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Seasonable from August to April.
Available from August to April.
Note.—Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and butter.
Note.—You can also serve skate with onion sauce, or with parsley and butter.
SMALL SKATE FRIED.
317. INGREDIENTS.—Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, hot dripping.
317. INGREDIENTS.—Skate, enough vinegar to cover them, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, hot dripping.
Mode.—Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegar to cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice, and let the fish remain in this pickle for 1-1/2 hour. Then drain them well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may be served either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed too fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day, but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell.
Mode.—Clean the skate and place them in a dish, covering them with enough vinegar. Add salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon juice, and let the fish marinate in this mixture for 1 and 1/2 hours. Then drain them well, coat them in flour, and fry until golden brown in hot oil. They can be served with or without sauce. Skate isn’t great if it’s too fresh, unless it’s crimped; it should be kept for a day, but not long enough to develop a bad smell.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 4d. per lb.
Time: 10 minutes. Average cost: 4d. per lb.
Seasonable from August to April.
Available from August to April.
OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.—Besides the true skate, there are several other species found in our seas. These are known as the white skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true skate.
OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.—In addition to the true skate, there are several other species found in our seas. These include the white skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which are of lower quality, though often processed to resemble true skate and sold as such.
TO BAKE SMELTS.
318. INGREDIENTS.—12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2 blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste.
318. INGREDIENTS.—12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2 blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs, and place little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake for 15 minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.
Mode.—Clean and dry the fish well with a cloth, then arrange them neatly in a flat baking dish. Cover them with fine breadcrumbs and scatter small pieces of butter over the top. Season and bake for 15 minutes. Just before serving, squeeze some lemon juice on top and garnish with fried parsley and lemon wedges.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, 2s. per dozen.
Time.—15 minutes. Average cost, 2 shillings per dozen.
Seasonable from October to May.
Available from October to May.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
TO CHOOSE SMELTS.—When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after death, fades to a light fawn. They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, resembling that of a cucumber.
TO CHOOSE SMELTS.—When fresh, this fish has a nice silvery look, and when alive, their backs are a dark brown color that fades to a light tan after they die. They should have a clean scent, similar to that of a cucumber.
THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT.—This peculiarity in the smelt has been compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by others, to that of a violet. It is a very elegant fish, and formerly abounded in the Thames. The Atharine, or sand smelt, is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish, being drier in the quality of its flesh. On the south coast of England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.
THE ODOR OF THE SMELT.—Some people have compared the scent of the smelt to the smell of a cucumber, while others liken it to that of a violet. It’s a very elegant fish that used to be abundant in the Thames. The Atharine, or sand smelt, is sometimes sold as the true smelt; however, it’s an inferior fish due to its drier flesh. On the south coast of England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.
TO FRY SMELTS.
319. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard.
319. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and breadcrumbs, a bit of flour; boiling lard.
Mode.—Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them into boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Dry them before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter. This fish is often used as a garnishing.
Mode.—Smelts should be very fresh and only washed as much as needed to clean them. Dry them with a cloth, lightly flour them, dip them in egg, and sprinkle very fine bread crumbs on top. Then, place them in boiling lard. Fry until a nice pale brown, being careful not to lose the light texture of the crumbs, or they will lose their appeal. Drain them in front of the fire on a rack, and serve with plain melted butter. This fish is often used as a garnish.
Time.—5 minutes.
Time.—5 min.
Average cost, 2s. per dozen.
Average cost, 2 shillings per dozen.
Seasonable from October to May.
Available from October to May.
[Illustration: THE SMELT.]
[Illustration: THE SMELT.]
THE SMELT.—This is a delicate little fish, and is in high esteem. Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It very rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in November, December, and January.
THE SMELT.—This is a delicate little fish that is highly valued. Mr. Yarrell claims that the true smelt is only found along the western and eastern coasts of Britain. It rarely goes far from the shore and is abundant in November, December, and January.
BAKED SOLES.
320. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles, 1/4 lb. of butter, egg, and bread crumbs, minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to taste.
320. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 egg, and bread crumbs, minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon juice; cayenne and salt to taste.
Mode.—Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, white side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each be laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of the other. Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20 minutes. Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add the wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it under the fish, and serve.
Method.—Clean, skin, and thoroughly wash the fish, then dry them completely with a cloth. Brush them with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a bit of minced parsley, and place them in a large flat baking dish with the white side facing up. If the dish can't fit both soles, each can be placed on its own dish; but they shouldn't be stacked on top of each other. Melt the butter and pour it over everything, then bake for 20 minutes. Take some of the juices that come from the fish, add the wine, lemon juice, and seasoning, bring it to a boil, skim off any foam, pour it under the fish, and serve.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 1s. to 2s. per pair.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 1 to 2 pence per pair.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
TO CHOOSE SOLES.—This fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin is difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good.
TO CHOOSE SOLES.—This fish should be thick and firm. If the skin is hard to remove and the flesh appears gray, it's a good choice.
[Illustration: THE SOLE.]
[Illustration: THE SOLE.]
THE SOLE.—This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence among our flat fish. It is abundant on the British coasts, but those of the western shores are much superior in size to those taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, and frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh being firm, white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed.
THE SOLE.—This is second to the turbot in quality among our flat fish. It’s plentiful along the British coasts, but those from the western shores are much larger than those from the north. The best are caught in Torbay, often weighing 8 to 10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh is firm, white, and delicate, making it highly prized.
BOILED SOLES.
321. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water.
321. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of the fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted butter, are usually sent to table with this dish.
Method.—Clean and wash the fish thoroughly, remove the fins, but don't peel it. Place it in a fish kettle, covered with enough cold water, salted as mentioned above. Allow it to come to a gentle boil, and let it simmer for a few minutes, depending on the size of the fish. Serve it on a hot napkin after draining well, and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. Shrimp or lobster sauce, along with plain melted butter, are typically served with this dish.
Time.—After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole.
Time.—Once the water is boiling, cook a medium-sized sole for 7 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. to 2s. per pair.
Average cost, 1 to 2 shillings per pair.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Sufficient,—1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons.
Sufficient,—1 medium-sized sole for 2 people.
SOLE OR COD PIE.
322. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb. of fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened with flour, puff paste.
322. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold boiled sole or cod, season to taste with pepper, salt, and ground mace, 12 oysters for each pound of fish, 3 tablespoons of white stock, 1 teacup of cream thickened with flour, puff pastry.
Mode.—Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add the stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour to thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve.
Mode.—Remove the fish from the bones, place it in a pie dish, and add a few oysters and some seasoning between each layer; pour in the stock, and if desired, a small amount of butter; cover with puff pastry and bake for 30 minutes. Boil the cream with enough flour to thicken it; pour it into the pie and serve.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 10d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost for this amount, 10 pence.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate for any time.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE.
323. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream.
323. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles; salt, cayenne, and ground mace to taste; the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream.
Mode.—Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2 pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a boil. When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately clean stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice. The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream is required.
Mode.—Clean, wash, and fillet the soles, then cut each fillet into 2 pieces; place them in cold salt water, which you will gradually bring to a boil. Once the water boils, remove the fish and place it in a very clean saucepan, covering it with cream. Add the seasoning and let it simmer very gently for ten minutes. Just before serving, add the lemon juice. The fillets can be rolled and held together with a skewer, but this method is less economical since it requires twice the amount of cream.
Time.—10 minutes in the cream.
Time.—10 minutes in the cream.
Average cost, from 1s. to 2s. per pair. Seasonable at any time.
Average cost, from 1 shilling to 2 shillings per pair. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.
This is going to be a really delicate and delicious dish.
THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.—This fish was much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light and nourishing qualities. The brill, the flounder, the diamond and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the general name of passeres, were all equally esteemed, and had generally the same qualities attributed to them.
THE SOLE A FAVORITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.—This fish was highly valued by the ancient Greeks because of its light and nutritious properties. The brill, the flounder, the diamond, and Dutch plaice, which, along with the sole, were commonly referred to as passeres, were all equally appreciated and were generally believed to have the same qualities.
FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE.
324. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon.
324. INGREDIENTS.—2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; egg and breadcrumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon.
Mode.—Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from the bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with white of egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put them in a baking-dish. Place small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for 1/2 hour. When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured over.
Mode.—Skin the fish, wash the fillets thoroughly, separate the meat from the bones, and cut each fillet into two pieces. Brush them with egg white, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and seasoning, and place them in a baking dish. Dot small pieces of butter on top, and bake for 30 minutes. When they're almost done, squeeze lemon juice over them, and serve on a plate with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured on top.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, from 1 shilling to 2 shillings per pair.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Sufficient for 4 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 4 or 6 people.
WHITING may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found very delicious.
WHITING can be prepared in the same way and will taste very delicious.
THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOLE.—This, as a matter of course, greatly depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the animal feeds. Its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish. Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it feeds; for if this be white, then the sole is called the white, or lemon sole; but if the bottom be muddy, then it is called the black sole. Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on the coasts, are the best in flavour.
THE FLAVOR OF THE SOLE.—This, of course, heavily relies on the type of seabed and bait the fish consumes. Its natural diet consists of small crabs and shellfish. Its color also varies based on the seabed it feeds on; if the seabed is white, it's referred to as the white or lemon sole; however, if the bottom is muddy, it’s known as the black sole. Smaller soles, caught in shallow waters along the coast, have the best flavor.
FRICASSEED SOLES.
325. INGREDIENTS.—2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste.
325. INGREDIENTS.—2 medium-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoon of chopped lemon peel, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, a little grated bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz. butter, 1/2 pint of good gravy, 2 tablespoons of port wine, cayenne and lemon juice to taste.
Mode.—Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327, and drain them well from fat. Take all the meat from the small sole, chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and seasoning; work altogether, with the yolk of an egg and the butter; make this into small balls, and fry them. Thicken the gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice; lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes; serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon.
Mode.—Fry the soles until they're nice and brown, as directed in recipe No. 327, and drain them well from the fat. Take all the meat from the small sole, chop it finely, and mix it with the lemon peel, parsley, bread, and seasoning; combine everything with the yolk of an egg and the butter; form this mixture into small balls and fry them. Thicken the gravy with a dessert spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon juice; add the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes; serve hot, and garnish with sliced lemon.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the soles.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the soles.
Average cost for this quantity, 3s.
Average cost for this amount, 3s.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Suitable at any time. Enough for 4 or 5 people.
HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT.—The instrument usually employed is a trawl net, which is shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty feet, and three deep. This is dragged along the ground by the vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches. If, for example, he drags the net too quickly, all that are caught are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they are smothered, and sometimes destroyed. A medium has to be observed, in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net, and as many as possible preserved alive in it.
HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT.—The tool typically used is a trawl net, which looks like a pocket, ranging from sixty to eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty feet, and three feet deep. This is pulled along the sea floor by the boat, and the fisherman’s skill in using it greatly influences the quality of the fish he catches. For instance, if he pulls the net too fast, all the fish get rushed to the end of the net, where they can get suffocated or even die. A balance needs to be struck to ensure that as few fish as possible escape the net while maximizing the number that remain alive in it.
FRIED FILLETED SOLES.
326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash the fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they look much better than when fried whole. (See Coloured Plate A.) Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish.
326. When filleting soles, choose large fish so you can separate the meat from the bones more easily, resulting in less waste. Clean and wash the fish, then carefully lift the meat from the bones and cut it into nice, attractive pieces. The common method is to roll the fillets after cutting each one into two pieces, then either tie them with twine or use a small skewer to secure them. Brush with beaten egg and coat with bread crumbs; fry them as instructed in the previous recipe and garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon. If you want a visually appealing presentation, this is definitely the most elegant way to prepare soles, as they look much better than when fried whole. (See Coloured Plate A.) Instead of rolling the fillets, you can cut them into square pieces and arrange them in a pyramid shape on the plate.
Time.—About 10 minutes. Average cost, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.
Time.—About 10 minutes. Average cost, from 1 to 2 pence per pair.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Sufficient,—2 large soles for 6 persons.
Enough,—2 large soles for 6 people.
FRIED SOLES.
327. INGREDIENTS.—2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarified dripping, egg, and bread crumbs.
327. INGREDIENTS.—2 medium-sized soles, hot lard or clarified fat, egg, and bread crumbs.
Mode.—Skin and carefully wash the soles, and cut off the fins, wipe them very dry, and let them remain in the cloth until it is time to dress them. Have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg; dredge the soles with a little flour, brush them over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with plenty of clarified dripping or lard (when the expense is not objected to, oil is still better) heated, so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make them sodden. When they are sufficiently cooked on one side, turn them carefully, and brown them on the other: they may be considered ready when a thick smoke rises. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on a reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat. Particular attention should be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy fish: this may be always avoided by dressing them in good time, and allowing a few minutes for them to get thoroughly crisp, and free from greasy moisture. Dish them on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and fried parsley, and send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.
Mode.—Skin the soles and wash them thoroughly, then cut off the fins, wipe them dry, and keep them wrapped in a cloth until it's time to prepare them. Have some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg ready; sprinkle the soles with a bit of flour, brush them with the egg, and coat them with the bread crumbs. Place them in a deep pan with plenty of heated clarified dripping or lard (oil is even better if cost isn’t an issue), making sure it’s hot enough to cook without burning or soaking the fish. Once they're cooked on one side, turn them gently and brown the other side; they’re done when a thick smoke rises. Carefully lift them out and place them in front of the fire on an inverted sieve with soft paper underneath to soak up the fat. It’s important to do this, as greasy fish are very unappetizing; cooking them at the right time and allowing a few minutes for them to become crispy and free of excess moisture will prevent this. Serve them on a hot napkin, garnished with lemon wedges and fried parsley, and accompany with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.
Time.—10 minutes for large soles; less time for small ones.
Time.—10 minutes for large soles; less time for small ones.
Average cost, from 1s. to 2s. per pair.
Average cost, from 1 shilling to 2 shillings per pair.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS.
328. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles.
328. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter, 1 oz. salt, a little lemon juice, 2 average-sized soles.
Mode.—Cleanse the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in a fish-kettle, with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bring them gradually to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done, which will be in about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on a cloth, put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom sauce. (See Sauces.)
Method.—Clean the soles, but don't peel them, and place them in a fish kettle with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon juice. Gradually bring them to a boil and let them simmer gently until cooked, which will take about 7 minutes. Remove them, drain well on a cloth, transfer to a hot dish, and pour a quality mushroom sauce over them. (See Sauces.)
Time.—After the water boils, 7 minutes.
Time.—After the water reaches a boil, 7 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
SPRATS.
329. Sprats should be cooked very fresh, which can be ascertained by their bright and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry; fasten them in rows by a skewer run through the eyes; dredge with flour, and broil them on a gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should be rubbed with suet. Serve very hot.
329. Sprats should be cooked when they are very fresh, which you can tell by their bright, shiny eyes. Dry them off; string them in rows with a skewer through the eyes; dust them with flour, and broil them on a grill over a nice, clear fire. The grill should be greased with suet. Serve them hot.
Time,—3 or 4 minutes. Average cost, 1d. per lb.
Time: 3 or 4 minutes. Average cost: 1d. per lb.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
TO CHOOSE SPRATS.—Choose these from their silvery appearance, as the brighter they are, so are they the fresher.
TO CHOOSE SPRATS.—Pick these based on their shiny look; the brighter they are, the fresher they are.
SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER.
330. INGREDIENTS.—2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste.
330. INGREDIENTS.—2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs; salt and pepper for seasoning to taste.
Mode.—Wipe the sprats, and dip them in a batter made of the above ingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve very hot, and garnish with fried parsley.
Mode.—Clean the sprats and coat them in a batter made from the ingredients above. Fry until golden brown, serve hot, and garnish with fried parsley.
Sprats may be baked like herrings. (See No. 268.)
Sprats can be baked just like herrings. (See No. 268.)
DRIED SPRATS.
331. Dried sprats should be put into a basin, and boiling water poured over them; they may then be skinned and served, and this will be found a much better way than boiling them.
331. Dried sprats should be placed in a bowl, and boiling water poured over them; they can then be skinned and served, and this is a much better method than boiling them.
[Illustration: THE SPRAT.]
[Illustration: THE SPRAT.]
THE SPRAT.—This migratory fish, is rarely found longer than four or five inches, and visits the shores of Britain after the herring and other kinds of fish have taken their departure from them. On the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and Kent, they are very abundant, and from 400 to 500 boats are employed in catching them during the winter season. Besides plentifully supplying the London market, they are frequently sold at sixpence a bushel to farmers for manuring purposes. They enter the Thames about the beginning of November, and leave it in March. At Yarmouth and Gravesend they are cured like red herrings.
THE SPRAT.—This migratory fish is usually no longer than four or five inches and visits the shores of Britain after the herring and other fish have left. Along the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and Kent, they are very plentiful, and around 400 to 500 boats are used to catch them during the winter season. In addition to supplying the London market, they are often sold for sixpence a bushel to farmers for fertilizing. They enter the Thames around the beginning of November and leave in March. At Yarmouth and Gravesend, they are cured like red herrings.
BAKED STURGEON.
332. INGREDIENTS.—1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 small bunch of herbs, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of white wine.
332. INGREDIENTS.—1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 small bunch of herbs, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of white wine.
Mode,—Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and split it along the belly without separating it; have ready a large baking-dish, in which lay the fish, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced, and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine. Place the butter in small pieces over the whole of the fish, put it in the oven, and baste frequently; brown it nicely, and serve with its own gravy.
Method: Clean the fish thoroughly, remove the skin, and split it open along the belly without cutting it all the way through; prepare a large baking dish, place the fish in it, sprinkle finely chopped seasoning and herbs over the top, and moisten with lemon juice and wine. Dot small pieces of butter all over the fish, put it in the oven, and baste it frequently; cook until nicely browned, and serve with its own gravy.
Time.—Nearly 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Time.—Almost 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
[Illustration: THE STURGEON.]
[Illustration: THE STURGEON.]
THE STURGEON.—This fish commences the sixth of Linnaean order, and all the species are large, seldom measuring, when full-grown, less than three or four feet in length. Its flesh is reckoned extremely delicious, and, in the time of the emperor Severus, was so highly valued by the ancients, that it was brought to table by servants crowned with coronets, and preceded by a band of music. It is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the Mediterranean, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, and of the Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large rivers. It is abundant in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally taken in the Thames, as well as in the Eske and the Eden. It is one of those fishes considered as royal property. It is from its roe that caviare, a favourite food of the Russians, is prepared. Its flesh is delicate, firm, and white, but is rare in the London market, where it sells for 1s. or 1s. 6d. per lb.
THE STURGEON.—This fish is the sixth in Linnaean order, and all its species are large, typically measuring at least three or four feet long when fully grown. Its flesh is considered extremely tasty, and during the time of Emperor Severus, it was so esteemed by the ancients that it was served at banquets by attendants wearing crowns, accompanied by a musical ensemble. It lives in the Baltic, Mediterranean, Caspian, and Black Seas, as well as the Danube, Volga, Don, and other major rivers. It is plentiful in North American rivers and is occasionally caught in the Thames, as well as in the Eske and Eden. This fish is regarded as royal property. Its roe is used to make caviar, a favorite delicacy in Russia. Its flesh is tender, firm, and white, but it is uncommon in the London market, where it sells for 1s. or 1s. 6d. per lb.
THE STERLET is a smaller species of sturgeon, found in the Caspian Sea and some Russian rivers. It also is greatly prized on account of the delicacy of its flesh.
THE STERLET is a smaller type of sturgeon, found in the Caspian Sea and some rivers in Russia. It is also highly valued because of the delicacy of its flesh.
ROAST STURGEON.
333. INGREDIENTS.—Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail-end of a sturgeon.
333. INGREDIENTS.—Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail end of a sturgeon.
Mode.—Cleanse the fish, bone and skin it; make a nice veal stuffing (see Forcemeats), and fill it with the part where the bones came from; roll it in buttered paper, bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet of veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve with good brown gravy, or plain melted butter.
Method.—Clean the fish, remove the bones and skin; prepare a flavorful veal stuffing (see Forcemeats), and fill it with the portion where the bones were removed; wrap it in buttered paper, secure it tightly with string, like a fillet of veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven over an open flame. Serve with rich brown gravy or simply melted butter.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
Note.—Sturgeon may be plain-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. The fish is very firm, and requires long boiling.
Note.—Sturgeon can be boiled simply and served with Dutch sauce. The fish is quite firm and needs to be boiled for a long time.
ESTIMATE OF THE STURGEON BY THE ANCIENTS.—By the ancients, the flesh of this fish was compared to the ambrosia of the immortals. The poet Martial passes a high eulogium upon it, and assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the Palatine Mount. If we may credit a modern traveller in China, the people of that country generally entirely abstain from it, and the sovereign of the Celestial Empire confines it to his own kitchen, or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest favourites.
ESTIMATE OF THE STURGEON BY THE ANCIENTS.—The ancients compared the flesh of this fish to the food of the gods. The poet Martial praises it highly and notes that it was served on the lavish tables of the Palatine Hill. If we can trust a modern traveler in China, the general population there completely avoids it, and the ruler of the Celestial Empire keeps it for his own kitchen or shares it only with a select few of his top favorites.
MATELOT OF TENCH.
334. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1 dozen button onions, a few mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, thyme, 1 shalot, 2 anchovies, 1 teacupful of stock No. 105, flour, 1 dozen oysters, the juice of 1/2 lemon; the number of tench, according to size.
334. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of port wine, 12 button onions, a few mushrooms, a bundle of herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley, thyme, 1 shallot, 2 anchovies, 1 teacup of stock No. 105, flour, 12 oysters, the juice of 1/2 lemon; the amount of tench, depending on size.
Mode.—Scale and clean the tench, cut them into pieces, and lay them in a stewpan; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs, and mace, and simmer gently for 1/2 hour. Put into another stewpan all the remaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice, and boil slowly for 10 minutes, when add the strained liquor from the tench, and keep stirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced. Rub it through a sieve, pour it over the tench with the oysters, which must be previously scalded in their own liquor, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve. Garnish with croutons.
Mode.—Scale and clean the tench, cut it into pieces, and place them in a pot; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs, and mace, and let it simmer gently for 30 minutes. In another pot, combine all the remaining ingredients except for the oysters and lemon juice, and let it boil slowly for 10 minutes. Then add the strained liquid from the tench and keep stirring over the heat until it reduces a bit. Strain it through a sieve, pour it over the tench along with the oysters, which should be scalded in their own liquid beforehand, squeeze in the lemon juice, and serve. Garnish with croutons.
Time. 3/4 hour.
Duration. 45 minutes.
Seasonable from October to June.
Available from October to June.
[Illustration: THE TENCH.]
[Illustration: THE TENCH.]
THE TENCH.—This fish is generally found in foul and weedy waters, and in such places as are well supplied with rushes. They thrive best in standing waters, and are more numerous in pools and ponds than in rivers. Those taken in the latter, however, are preferable for the table. It does not often exceed four or five pounds in weight, and is in England esteemed as a delicious and wholesome food. As, however, they are sometimes found in waters where the mud is excessively fetid, their flavour, if cooked immediately on being caught, is often very unpleasant; but if they are transferred into clear water, they soon recover from the obnoxious taint.
THE TENCH.—This fish is typically found in dirty and weedy waters, especially in areas with plenty of rushes. They do best in still waters and are more common in pools and ponds than in rivers. However, those caught in rivers are preferred for eating. They usually weigh no more than four or five pounds and are considered a tasty and healthy dish in England. That said, when they are caught in very muddy waters, their flavor can be quite unpleasant if cooked right away; but if they are put into clean water, they quickly get rid of the bad taste.
TENCH STEWED WITH WINE.
335. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of Madeira or sherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter and flour.
335. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 1/2 pint of Madeira or sherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay leaf, thickening of butter and flour.
Mode.—Clean and crimp the tench; carefully lay it in a stewpan with the stock, wine, salt and pepper, and bay-leaf; let it stew gently for 1/2 hour; then take it out, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Strain the liquor, and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together, and stew for 5 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a tammy, add a very little cayenne, and pour over the fish. Garnish with balls of veal forcemeat.
Mode.—Clean and trim the tench; carefully place it in a saucepan with the stock, wine, salt, pepper, and bay leaf; let it simmer gently for 30 minutes; then remove it, place it on a plate, and keep it warm. Strain the liquid and thicken it with a mixture of butter and flour, cooking for 5 minutes. If it’s not completely smooth, strain it through a fine sieve, add a tiny bit of cayenne, and pour it over the fish. Garnish with balls of veal forcemeat.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes.
Seasonable from October to June.
Seasonal from October to June.
A SINGULAR QUALITY IN THE TENCH.—It is said that the tench is possessed of such healing properties among the finny tribes, that even the voracious pike spares it on this account.
A UNIQUE QUALITY IN THE TENCH.—People say that the tench has such healing properties among fish that even the hungry pike leaves it alone for this reason.
The pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain,
With ravenous waste devours his fellow train;
Yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined,
The tench he spares, a medicinal kind;
For when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease,
He courts the salutary fish for ease;
Close to his scales the kind physician glides,
And sweats a healing balsam from his sides.
The pike, ruthless ruler of the watery expanse,
Devours his fellow fish with greedy abandon;
Yet, no matter how hungry he gets,
He spares the tench, a healing type;
For when he's hurt or suffering from illness,
He seeks the soothing fish for relief;
Close to his scales, the caring healer swims,
And releases a healing balm from his sides.
In our estimation, however, this self-denial in the pike may be attributed to a less poetical cause; namely, from the mud-loving disposition of the tench, it is enabled to keep itself so completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts, that it remains secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour.
In our view, though, this self-denial in the pike can be attributed to a less poetic reason; specifically, because of the mud-loving nature of the tench, it can keep itself so well hidden at the bottom of its watery home that it stays safe from the attacks of its predatory neighbor.
STEWED TROUT.
336. INGREDIENTS.—2 middling-sized trout, 1/2 onion cut in thin slices, a little parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 105, 1 glass of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.
336. INGREDIENTS.—2 medium-sized trout, 1/2 onion sliced thin, a bit of parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay leaves, a little thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 105, 1 glass of port wine, and a thickening made of butter and flour.
Mode.—Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in a stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and simmer gently for 1/2 hour, or rather more, should not the fish be quite done. Take it out, strain the gravy, add the thickening, and stir it over a sharp fire for 5 minutes; pour it over the trout, and serve.
Mode.—Clean the fish thoroughly and dry it completely. Place it in a saucepan along with all the ingredients except for the butter and flour, and let it simmer gently for about 30 minutes, or a bit longer if the fish isn’t fully cooked. Remove it, strain the sauce, add the thickening, and stir it over high heat for 5 minutes; then pour it over the trout and serve.
Time.—According to size, 1/2 hour or more.
Time.—Based on size, 30 minutes or more.
Average cost.—Seldom bought.
Typical price.—Rarely purchased.
Seasonable from May to September, and fatter from the middle to the end of August than at any other time.
In season from May to September, and plumper from the middle to the end of August than at any other time.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in buttered paper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed a la Génévese is extremely delicate; for this proceed the same as with salmon, No. 307.
Trout can be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in buttered paper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout prepared à la Génévese is very delicate; for this, follow the same method as with salmon, No. 307.
[Illustration: THE TROUT.]
[Illustration: THE TROUT.]
THE TROUT.—This fish, though esteemed by the moderns for its delicacy, was little regarded by the ancients. Although it abounded in the lakes of the Roman empire, it is generally mentioned by writers only on account of the beauty of its colours. About the end of September, they quit the deep water to which they had retired during the hot weather, for the purpose of spawning. This they always do on a gravelly bottom, or where gravel and sand are mixed among stones, towards the end or by the sides of streams. At this period they become black about the head and body, and become soft and unwholesome. They are never good when they are large with roe; but there are in all trout rivers some barren female fish, which continue good throughout the winter. In the common trout, the stomach is uncommonly strong and muscular, shell-fish forming a portion of the food of the animal; and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones in order to assist in comminuting it.
THE TROUT.—This fish, while appreciated by modern people for its delicacy, was not highly valued by the ancients. Although it was plentiful in the lakes of the Roman Empire, writers generally mentioned it only for its beautiful colors. Around the end of September, they leave the deep water where they've stayed during the hot weather to spawn. They always do this on a gravelly bottom, or where gravel and sand mix with stones, at the end or along the sides of streams. At this time, they turn black around the head and body, and they become soft and unhealthy. They are never good when they are large with roe; however, some barren female fish in all trout rivers remain good throughout the winter. In common trout, the stomach is unusually strong and muscular, with shellfish being part of its diet; and it ingests gravel or small stones to help grind up its food.
BOILED TURBOT.
337. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.
337. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode—Choose a middling-sized turbot; for they are invariably the most valuable: if very large, the meat will be tough and thready. Three or four hours before dressing, soak the fish in salt and water to take off the slime; then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a knife make an incision down the middle of the back, to prevent the skin of the belly from cracking. Rub it over with lemon, and be particular not to cut off the fins. Lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a boil, and skim very carefully; keep it gently simmering, and on no account let it boil fast, as the fish would have a very unsightly appearance. When the meat separates easily from the bone, it is done; then take it out, let it drain well, and dish it on a hot napkin. Rub a little lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle it over the fish, and garnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon. Lobster or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it. (See Coloured Plate E.)
Mode—Choose a medium-sized turbot, as they are usually the most valuable: if it's very large, the meat will be tough and stringy. Three or four hours before cooking, soak the fish in salt water to remove the slime; then clean it thoroughly and make a cut down the middle of the back to prevent the belly skin from cracking. Rub it with lemon, and be careful not to cut off the fins. Place the fish in a very clean turbot kettle, with enough cold water to cover it, and add salt accordingly. Let it slowly come to a boil, skimming carefully; keep it at a gentle simmer, and never let it boil rapidly, as this will make the fish look unappealing. When the meat separates easily from the bone, it's done; take it out, let it drain well, and serve it on a hot napkin. Rub some lobster roe through a sieve, sprinkle it over the fish, and garnish with parsley and lemon wedges. Serve lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter alongside it. (See Coloured Plate E.)
Time.—After the water boils, about 1/2 hour for a large turbot; middling size, about 20 minutes.
Time.—After the water starts boiling, cook a large turbot for about 30 minutes; for a medium-sized one, around 20 minutes.
Average cost,—large turbot, from 10s. to 12s.; middling size, from 12s. to 15s.
Average cost,—large turbot, from £1 to £1.20; middling size, from £1.20 to £1.50.
Seasonable at any time.
Timely at any time.
Sufficient, 1 middling-sized turbot for 8 persons.
Enough, 1 medium-sized turbot for 8 people.
Note.—An amusing anecdote is related, by Miss Edgeworth, of a bishop, who, descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot, and discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins, immediately commenced sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers. This dignitary knew the value of a turbot's gelatinous appendages.
Note.—An amusing story is told by Miss Edgeworth about a bishop who went down to his kitchen to oversee the preparation of a turbot. When he saw that his cook had foolishly cut off the fins, he immediately started sewing them back on with his own bishop hands. This dignitary understood the importance of a turbot's gelatinous fins.
GARNISH FOR TURBOT OR OTHER LARGE FISH.
338. Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it into small pyramids with flat tops, and on the top of each pyramid, put rather more than a tablespoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this, sprinkle finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour. Arrange these on the napkin round the fish, one green and one brown alternately.
338. Take a piece of stale bread, cut it into small pyramid shapes with flat tops, and on top of each pyramid, put a little more than a tablespoon of egg white beaten until stiff. Sprinkle finely chopped parsley and dark-colored breadcrumbs over this. Arrange these on the napkin around the fish, alternating between green and brown.
TO CHOOSE TURBOT.—See that it is thick, and of a yellowish white; for if of a bluish tint, it is not good.
TO CHOOSE TURBOT.—Make sure it is thick and has a yellowish-white color; if it has a bluish tint, it’s not good.
[Illustration: THE TURBOT.]
[Illustration: THE TURBOT.]
THE TURBOT.—This is the most esteemed of all our flat fish. The northern parts of the English coast, and some places off the coast of Holland, produce turbot in great abundance, and in greater excellence than any other parts of the world. The London market is chiefly supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring to it nearly 90,000 a year. The flesh is firm, white, rich, and gelatinous, and is the better for being kept a day or two previous to cooking it. In many parts of the country, turbot and halibut are indiscriminately sold for each other. They are, however, perfectly distinct; the upper parts of the former being marked with large, unequal, and obtuse tubercles, while those of the other are quite smooth, and covered with oblong soft scales, which firmly adhere to the body.
THE TURBOT.—This is the most highly regarded of all our flatfish. The northern parts of the English coast and some areas off the coast of Holland produce turbot in great abundance and better quality than anywhere else in the world. The London market is primarily supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring in nearly 90,000 each year. The flesh is firm, white, rich, and gelatinous, and is best when kept for a day or two before cooking. In many parts of the country, turbot and halibut are sold interchangeably. However, they are completely different; the upper parts of the former are marked with large, uneven, and blunt tubercles, while those of the latter are smooth and covered with elongated soft scales that firmly stick to the body.
[Illustration: TURBOT-KETTLE.]
[Illustration: TURBOT-KETTLE.]
FISH-KETTLES are made in an oblong form, and have two handles, with a movable bottom, pierced full of holes, on which the fish is laid, and on which it may be lifted from the water, by means of two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom. This is to prevent the liability of breaking the fish, as it would necessarily be if it were cooked in a common saucepan. In the list of Messrs. Richard and John Slack (see 71), the price of two of these is set down at 10s. The turbot-kettle, as will be seen by our cut, is made differently from ordinary fish-kettles, it being less deep, whilst it is wider, and more pointed at the sides; thus exactly answering to the shape of the fish which it is intended should be boiled in it. It may be obtained from the same manufacturers, and its price is £1.
FISH-KETTLES are designed in an oblong shape and come with two handles, featuring a movable bottom that's full of holes. The fish rests on this bottom, allowing it to be lifted from the water using two long handles attached to each side of the movable bottom. This design helps avoid breaking the fish, which would likely happen if it were cooked in a regular saucepan. In the catalog from Messrs. Richard and John Slack (see 71), the price for two of these is listed at 10s. The turbot-kettle, as shown in our illustration, is made differently from standard fish-kettles; it's shallower, wider, and has more pointed sides, perfectly matching the shape of the fish it's meant to boil. It can also be purchased from the same manufacturers, and its price is £1.
BAKED FILLETS OF TURBOT.
339. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left from the preceding day, egg, and bread crumbs; cayenne and salt to taste; minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice.
339. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold turbot, lobster sauce from the day before, an egg, and breadcrumbs; cayenne and salt to taste; chopped parsley, nutmeg, and lemon juice.
Mode.—After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide it into square pieces of an equal size; brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning. Lay the fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste with. Bake for 1/4 hour, and do not forget to keep them well moistened with the butter. Put a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster sauce; make it hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drained from the butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon.
Mode.—Once you've removed all skin and bones from the fish, cut it into equally sized square pieces. Brush them with egg, then sprinkle with breadcrumbs mixed with a bit of minced parsley and seasoning. Place the fillets in a baking dish and add enough butter to baste them. Bake for 15 minutes, making sure to keep them well moistened with the butter. Add a bit of lemon juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster sauce, heat it up, and pour it over the fish, which should be well drained of butter. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total, 30 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
In style all year round.
Note.—Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be found much nicer than putting the fish again in water.
Note.—Cold turbot warmed in leftover lobster sauce is much better than reheating the fish in water.
FILLETS OF TURBOT A L'ITALIENNE.
340. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce. (See Sauces.)
340. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold turbot, Italian sauce. (See Sauces.)
Mode.—Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all skin, which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Make the sauce hot, lay in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish with croutons.
Mode.—Carefully remove the fish from the bone and take off all the skin, as it adds an unpleasant taste to the sauce. Heat the sauce, add the fish to warm it up, but don’t let it boil. Garnish with croutons.
Time.—5 minutes.
Duration.—5 minutes.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
THE ANCIENT ROMANS' ESTIMATE OF TURBOT.—As this luxurious people compared soles to partridges, and sturgeons to peacocks, so they found a resemblance to the turbot in the pheasant. In the time of Domitian, it is said one was taken of such dimensions as to require, in the imperial kitchen, a new stove to be erected, and a new dish to be made for it, in order that it might be cooked and served whole: not even imperial Rome could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous animal. Where it was caught, we are not aware; but the turbot of the Adriatic Sea held a high rank in the "Eternal City."
THE ANCIENT ROMANS' ESTIMATE OF TURBOT.—Just as this extravagant people compared soles to partridges and sturgeons to peacocks, they saw a similarity between the turbot and the pheasant. During Domitian's reign, it's said a turbot was caught that was so large it needed a new stove to be built in the imperial kitchen and a special dish made just for it, so it could be cooked and served whole: even imperial Rome couldn't provide a stove or dish big enough for this gigantic fish. We don't know where it was caught, but the turbot from the Adriatic Sea was highly prized in the "Eternal City."
TURBOT A LA CREME.
341. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste.
341. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold turbot. For the sauce, 2 oz. of butter, 4 tablespoons of cream; salt, cayenne, and ground mace to taste.
Mode.—Clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot, which should be done when it comes from table, as it causes less waste when trimmed hot. Cut the flesh into nice square pieces, as equally as possible; put into a stewpan the butter, let it melt, and add the cream and seasoning; let it just simmer for one minute, but not boil. Lay in the fish to warm, and serve it garnished with croutons or a paste border.
Mode.—Remove all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot right after it's served, as it's less wasteful to trim it while it's hot. Cut the flesh into evenly sized square pieces. In a saucepan, melt the butter, then add the cream and seasoning; let it simmer gently for one minute, but don't let it boil. Add the fish to warm it up and serve it garnished with croutons or a pastry border.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—The remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way, and the above mixture may be served in a vol-au-vent.
Note.—The leftover cold salmon can be prepared this way, and the mixture mentioned above can be served in a vol-au-vent.
TURBOT AU GRATIN.
342. INGREDIENTS.—Remains of cold turbot, béchamel (see Sauces), bread crumbs, butter.
342. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold turbot, béchamel (see Sauces), bread crumbs, butter.
Mode.—Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeing it from all skin and bone. Put them into a stewpan, and moisten with 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of béchamel. Let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with finely-grated bread crumbs, and place small pieces of butter over the top. Brown it in the oven, or with a salamander.
Mode.—Cut the turbot into small cubes, making sure to remove all skin and bones. Place them in a saucepan and add 4 or 5 tablespoons of béchamel sauce. Heat it through, but don’t let it boil. Spread the mix on a plate, sprinkle with finely grated breadcrumbs, and add small pieces of butter on top. Brown it in the oven or under a salamander.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—Total, 30 minutes. Appropriate at any time.
BOILED WHITING.
343. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
343. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of salt for every gallon of water.
Mode.—Cleanse the fish, but do not skin them; lay them in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and salt in the above proportion. Bring them gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for about 5 minutes, or rather more should the fish be very large. Dish them on a hot napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Serve with anchovy or caper sauce, and plain melted butter.
Method.—Clean the fish, but don't remove the skin; place them in a fish kettle, adding enough cold water to cover them, along with the appropriate amount of salt. Gradually bring the water to a boil, then let it simmer gently for about 5 minutes, or a bit longer if the fish is very large. Serve them on a warm cloth and garnish with parsley. Pair with anchovy or caper sauce and plain melted butter.
Time.—After the water boils, 5 minutes.
Time.—After the water boils, for 5 minutes.
Average cost for small whitings, 4d. each.
Average cost for small whitings, 4 pence each.
Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.
Good all year round, but best from October to March.
Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.
Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.
To CHOOSE WHITING.—Choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silvery hue of its appearance.
To CHOOSE WHITING.—Select based on the firmness of its flesh and its shiny silver color.
[Illustration: THE WHITING.]
[Illustration: THE WHITING.]
The Whiting.—This fish forms a light, tender, and delicate food, easy of digestion. It appears in our seas in the spring, within three miles of the shores, where it arrives in large shoals to deposit its spawn. It is caught by line, and is usually between ten and twelve inches long, and seldom exceeding a pound and a half in weight. On the edge of the Dogger Bank, however, it has been caught so heavy as to weigh from three to seven or eight pounds. When less than six inches long, it is not allowed to be caught.
The Whiting.—This fish is light, tender, and delicate, making it easy to digest. It shows up in our seas in the spring, within three miles of the shore, where it comes in large schools to spawn. It’s caught by line and usually measures between ten and twelve inches long, rarely weighing more than a pound and a half. However, on the edge of the Dogger Bank, it has been caught weighing three to seven or eight pounds. Fish less than six inches long cannot be caught.
BROILED WHITING.
344. INGREDIENTS.—Salt and water, flour.
344. INGREDIENTS.—Salt, water, and flour.
Mode.—Wash the whiting in salt and water, wipe them thoroughly, and let them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture. Flour them well, and broil over a very clear fire. Serve with maître d'hôtel sauce, or plain melted butter (see Sauces). Be careful to preserve the liver, as by some it is considered very delicate.
Mode.—Rinse the whiting in saltwater, dry them completely, and let them sit in the cloth to soak up any moisture. Coat them in flour, and broil over a hot fire. Serve with maître d'hôtel sauce or plain melted butter (see Sauces). Make sure to keep the liver intact, as it is considered a delicacy by some.
Time.—5 minutes for a small whiting. Average cost, 4d. each.
Time.—5 minutes for a small whiting. Average cost, 4d. each.
Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.
Available all year round, but best from October to March.
Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.
Enough, 1 small whiting per person.
Buckhorn.—Whitings caught in Cornwall are salted and dried, and in winter taken to the markets, and sold under the singular name of "Buckhorn."
Buckhorn.—Whitings caught in Cornwall are salted and dried, then taken to the markets in winter and sold under the unique name of "Buckhorn."
FRIED WHITING.
345. INGREDIENTS.—Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour, hot lard or clarified dripping.
345. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs and breadcrumbs, a bit of flour, hot lard or clarified fat.
Mode.—Take off the skin, clean, and thoroughly wipe the fish free from all moisture, as this is most essential, in order that the egg and bread crumbs may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in the mouth by means of a small skewer, brush the fish over with egg, dredge with a little flour, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified dripping of a nice colour, and serve them on a napkin, garnished with fried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D.) Send them to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.
Mode.—Remove the skin, clean the fish, and wipe it completely dry, as this is crucial for the egg and breadcrumbs to stick properly. Secure the tail in the mouth using a small skewer, brush the fish with egg, sprinkle with a bit of flour, and coat it with breadcrumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified dripping until they’re beautifully golden, and serve them on a napkin, garnished with fried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D.) Serve with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.
Time.—About 6 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each.
Time.—About 6 minutes. Average cost, 4p each.
Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.
Available all year round, but best from October to March.
Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.
Enough, 1 small whiting for each person.
Note.—Large whitings may be filleted, rolled, and served as fried filleted soles (see Coloured Plato A). Small fried whitings are frequently used for garnishing large boiled fish, such as turbot, cod, etc.
Note.—Large whitings can be filleted, rolled, and served as fried fillets of sole (see Coloured Plato A). Small fried whitings are often used to garnish large boiled fish, like turbot, cod, and others.
WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING.
WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING.
346. INGREDIENTS.—4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable; pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg to taste; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread crumbs.
346. INGREDIENTS.—4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, a few chopped mushrooms when available; pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg to taste; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread crumbs.
Mode.—Grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter, and over it, strew some minced parsley and mushrooms. Scale, empty, and wash the whitings, and wipe them thoroughly dry, carefully preserving the livers. Lay them in the dish, sprinkle them with bread crumbs and seasoning, adding a little grated nutmeg, and also a little more minced parsley and mushrooms. Place small pieces of butter over the whiting, moisten with the wine, and bake for 20 minutes in a hot oven. If there should be too much sauce, reduce it by boiling over a sharp fire for a few minutes, and pour under the fish. Serve with a cut lemon, and no other sauce.
Mode.—Grease the bottom of a baking dish with butter, then sprinkle some chopped parsley and mushrooms over it. Scale, gut, and wash the fish, then dry them thoroughly, making sure to keep the livers intact. Place them in the dish, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and seasoning, and add a bit of grated nutmeg, along with some more chopped parsley and mushrooms. Dot small pieces of butter on top of the fish, drizzle with wine, and bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. If there's too much sauce, reduce it by boiling over high heat for a few minutes and pour it under the fish. Serve with a lemon wedge, and no other sauce.
Time.—-20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each.
Time.—-20 mins. Average cost, 4d. each.
Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.
Available all year round, but best from October to March.
Sufficient.—This quantity for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—This amount is for 4 or 5 people.
WHITING AUX FINE HERBES.
347. INGREDIENTS.-1 bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine; butter.
347. INGREDIENTS.-1 bunch of finely chopped sweet herbs; butter.
Mode.—Clean and skin the fish, fasten the tails in the mouths; and lay them in a baking-dish. Mince the herbs very fine, strew them over the fish, and place small pieces of butter over; cover with another dish, and let them simmer in a Dutch oven for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Turn the fish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over.
Method.—Clean and skin the fish, tie the tails in the mouths; then place them in a baking dish. Chop the herbs very finely, sprinkle them over the fish, and add small pieces of butter on top; cover with another dish and let them cook in a Dutch oven for 15 minutes or 20 minutes. Turn the fish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over.
Time.—1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each.
Duration.—15 minutes. Average cost, 4d. each.
Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.
Always in season, but best from October to March.
Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.
Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.
THE WHITING POUT, AND POLLACK.—About the mouth of the Thames, and generally all round the English coasts, as well as in the northern seas, the pout is plentiful. It bears a striking resemblance to the whiting, and is esteemed as an excellent fish.—The pollack is also taken all round our coasts, and likewise bears a striking resemblance to the whiting; indeed, it is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that fish; its flesh being considered by many equally delicate.
THE WHITING POUT AND POLLACK.—Around the mouth of the Thames and generally along all the English coasts, as well as in the northern seas, pout fish are abundant. They closely resemble whiting and are regarded as a great fish. The pollack is also caught all around our coasts and similarly looks a lot like whiting; in fact, inexperienced fishers sometimes confuse it with whiting, as many consider its flesh just as delicate.
TO DRESS WHITEBAIT.
348. INGREDIENTS.—A little flour, hot lard, seasoning of salt.
348. INGREDIENTS.—Some flour, hot lard, and a pinch of salt for seasoning.
Mode.—This fish should be put into iced water as soon as bought, unless they are cooked immediately. Drain them from the water in a colander, and have ready a nice clean dry cloth, over which put 2 good handfuls of flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake them lightly in the cloth, and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous flour. Throw them into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, and let them fry till of a whitey-brown colour. Directly they are done, they must he taken out, and laid before the fire for a minute or two on a sieve reversed, covered with blotting-paper to absorb the fat. Dish them on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the centre, and sprinkle a little salt over the whole.
Method.—Put the fish into iced water as soon as you buy them, unless you're cooking them right away. Drain them in a colander and have a clean, dry cloth ready with 2 good handfuls of flour spread over it. Toss in the whitebait, shake them gently in the cloth, and place them in a wicker sieve to get rid of any extra flour. Drop them into a pan of boiling lard a few at a time, and fry until they turn a light brown color. As soon as they're done, remove them and lay them on a sieve turned upside down, covered with blotting paper to soak up the fat for a minute or two. Serve them on a hot napkin, stacking the fish high in the center, and sprinkle a little salt over everything.
Time.—3 minutes.
Duration.—3 minutes.
_Seasonable _from April to August.
Seasonal from April to August.
[Illustration: WHITEBAIT.]
[Illustration: WHITEBAIT.]
WHITEBAIT.—This highly-esteemed little fish appears in innumerable multitudes in the river Thames, near Greenwich and Blackwall, during the month of July, when it forms, served with lemon and brown bread and butter, a tempting dish to vast numbers of Londoners, who flock to the various taverns of these places, in order to gratify their appetites. The fish has been supposed be the fry of the shad, the sprat, the smelt, or the bleak. Mr. Yarrell, however, maintains that it is a species in itself, distinct from every other fish. When fried with flour, it is esteemed a great delicacy. The ministers of the Crown have had a custom, for many years, of having a "whitebait dinner" just before the close of the session. It is invariably the precursor of the prorogation of Parliament, and the repast is provided by the proprietor of the "Trafalgar," Greenwich.
WHITEBAIT.—This highly regarded little fish shows up in huge numbers in the River Thames, near Greenwich and Blackwall, during July. Served with lemon and brown bread and butter, it becomes a tempting dish for many Londoners, who flock to the various taverns in these areas to satisfy their cravings. The fish has been thought to be the fry of the shad, sprat, smelt, or bleak. However, Mr. Yarrell argues that it is a unique species, different from all other fish. When fried with flour, it is considered a true delicacy. For many years, Crown ministers have had a tradition of hosting a "whitebait dinner" just before the session ends. It is always a sign that Parliament is about to prorogue, and the meal is provided by the owner of the "Trafalgar," Greenwich.
FISH PIE, WITH TENCH AND EELS.
349. INGREDIENTS.—2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a faggot of herbs, 4 blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, puff paste.
349. INGREDIENTS.—2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a bundle of herbs, 4 blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs, puff pastry.
Mode.—Clean and bone the tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut them into pieces 2 inches long, and leave the sides of the tench whole. Put the bones into a stewpan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies, water, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain it off, put it to cool, and skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and eels in a pie-dish, and between each layer put seasoning, chopped parsley, and hard-boiled eggs; pour in part of the strained liquor, cover in with puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour or rather more. The oven should be rather quick, and when done, heat the remainder of the liquor, which pour into the pie.
Mode.—Clean and debone the tench, skin and debone the eels, and cut them into pieces that are 2 inches long, keeping the sides of the tench whole. Put the bones in a saucepan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies, water, and seasoning, and let it simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain it, let it cool, and skim off all the fat. Arrange the tench and eels in a pie dish, adding seasoning, chopped parsley, and hard-boiled eggs between each layer; pour in some of the strained liquid, cover it with puff pastry, and bake for about 30 minutes or a bit longer. The oven should be fairly hot, and when it's done, heat the remaining liquid and pour it into the pie.
Time.—1/2 hour to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow.
Time.—30 minutes to bake, or a bit longer if the oven is slow.
FISH SCALLOP.
I.
350. INGREDIENTS.—Remains of cold fish of any sort, 1/2 pint of cream, 1/2 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 teaspoonful of made mustard, ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the above quantities are for 1/2 lb. of fish when picked); bread crumbs.
350. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold fish of any kind, 1/2 pint of cream, 1/2 tablespoon of anchovy sauce, 1/2 teaspoon of prepared mustard, the same amount of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the quantities above are for 1/2 lb. of fish when picked); breadcrumbs.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully picking the fish from the bones; set it on the fire, let it remain till nearly hot, occasionally stir the contents, but do not allow it to boil. When done, put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell, with a good quantity of bread crumbs; place small pieces of butter on the top, set in a Dutch oven before the fire to brown, or use a salamander.
Mode.—Add all the ingredients to a saucepan, taking care to remove the fish from the bones. Place it on the stove and let it heat until it's almost hot, stirring occasionally, but don’t let it boil. Once it’s ready, transfer the fish to a deep dish or scallop shell, adding a generous amount of bread crumbs on top. Dot it with small pieces of butter and put it in a Dutch oven in front of the fire to brown, or use a salamander.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 10d.
Time.—15 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold fish, 10 pence.
II.
351. INGREDIENTS.—Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter.
351. INGREDIENTS.—Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large piece of crushed mace, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 teaspoon of anchovy sauce, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter.
Mode.—Pick the fish carefully from the bones, and moisten with milk and the egg; add the other ingredients, and place in a deep dish or scallop shells; cover with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brown before the fire; when quite hot, serve.
Mode.—Carefully remove the fish from the bones, and soak it in milk and an egg; mix in the other ingredients and put it in a deep dish or scallop shells; sprinkle with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brown it over the fire; when it's hot, serve.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 4d.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold fish, 4d.
WATER SOUCHY.
352. Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the best fish for this dish. For the souchy, put some water into a stewpan with a bunch of chopped parsley, some roots, and sufficient salt to make it brackish. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then stew the fish in this water. When they are done, take them out to drain, have ready some finely-chopped parsley, and a few roots cut into slices of about one inch thick and an inch in length. Put the fish in a tureen or deep dish, strain the liquor over them, and add the minced parsley and roots. Serve with brown bread and butter.
352. Perch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the best fish for this dish. For the souchy, put some water into a saucepan with a bunch of chopped parsley, some root vegetables, and enough salt to make it salty. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then cook the fish in this water. Once they're done, take them out to drain, have some finely chopped parsley ready, and a few root vegetables cut into slices about an inch thick and an inch long. Place the fish in a serving bowl or deep dish, pour the strained liquid over them, and add the minced parsley and root vegetables. Serve with brown bread and butter.
353. SUPPLY OF FISH TO THE LONDON MARKET.—From Mr. Mayhew's work on "London Labour and the London Poor," and other sources, we are enabled to give the following table of the total annual supply of fish to the London market:—
353. SUPPLY OF FISH TO THE LONDON MARKET.—From Mr. Mayhew's work on "London Labour and the London Poor," and other sources, we can provide the following table of the total annual supply of fish to the London market:—
Description of Fish. Number of Weight of
Fish Fish in lbs
WET FISH.
Description of Fish. Number of Weight of
Fish Fish in lbs
WET FISH.
Salmon and Salmon-Trout(29,000 boxes,
14 fish per box) 406,000 3,480,000
Turbot, from 8 to 16 lbs. 800,000 5,600,000
Live Cod, averaging 10 lbs. each 400,000 4,000,000
Soles, averaging 1/4 lbs. each 97,520,000 26,880,000
Brill and Mullet, averaging 3 lbs. each 1,220,000 3,366,000
Whiting, averaging 6 oz. each 17,920,000 6,720,000
Haddock, averaging 2 lbs. each 2,470,000 4,940,000
Plaice, averaging 1 lb. each 33,600,000 33,600,000
Mackerel, averaging 1 lb ach 23,520,000 23,520,000
Fresh herrings (250,000 barrels, 700
fish per barrel) 175,000,000 42,000,000
Ditto in bulk 1,050,000,000 252,000,000
Sprats — 4,000,000
Eels (from Holland principally)
England and Ireland 9,797,760 1,632,960
Flounders 259,200 48,200
Dabs 270,000 48,750
Salmon and Salmon-Trout (29,000 boxes,
14 fish per box) 406,000 3,480,000
Turbot, weighing 8 to 16 lbs. 800,000 5,600,000
Live Cod, averaging 10 lbs. each 400,000 4,000,000
Soles, averaging 1/4 lbs. each 97,520,000 26,880,000
Brill and Mullet, averaging 3 lbs. each 1,220,000 3,366,000
Whiting, averaging 6 oz. each 17,920,000 6,720,000
Haddock, averaging 2 lbs. each 2,470,000 4,940,000
Plaice, averaging 1 lb. each 33,600,000 33,600,000
Mackerel, averaging 1 lb. each 23,520,000 23,520,000
Fresh herrings (250,000 barrels, 700
fish per barrel) 175,000,000 42,000,000
Also available in bulk 1,050,000,000 252,000,000
Sprats — 4,000,000
Eels (mainly from Holland)
England and Ireland 9,797,760 1,632,960
Flounders 259,200 48,200
Dabs 270,000 48,750
DRY FISH.
Barrelled Cod(15,000 barrels, 40 fish per barrel) 750,000 4,200,000 Dried Salt Cod, 5 lbs each 1,600,000 8,000,000 Smoked Haddock(65,000 barrels, 300 fish per barrel) 19,500,000 10,920,000 Bloaters, 265,000 baskets(150 fish per basket) 147,000,000 10,600,000 Red Herrings, 100,000 barrels(500 fish per barrel) 50,000,000 14,000,000 Dried Sprats, 9,600 large bundles (30 fish per bundle) 288,000 9,600
Barrelled Cod (15,000 barrels, 40 fish per barrel) 750,000 4,200,000 Dried Salt Cod, 5 lbs each 1,600,000 8,000,000 Smoked Haddock (65,000 barrels, 300 fish per barrel) 19,500,000 10,920,000 Bloaters, 265,000 baskets (150 fish per basket) 147,000,000 10,600,000 Red Herrings, 100,000 barrels (500 fish per barrel) 50,000,000 14,000,000 Dried Sprats, 9,600 large bundles (30 fish per bundle) 288,000 9,600
SHELL FISH.
Oysters 495,896,000
Lobsters, averaging 1 lb each 1,200,000 1,200,000
Crabs, averaging 1 lb each 600,000 600,000
Shrimps, 324 to a pint 498,428,648
Whelks, 227 to a half-bushel 4,943,200
Mussels, 1000 to ditto 50,400,000
Cockles, 2000 to ditto 67,392,000
Periwinkles, 4000 to ditto 304,000,000
Oysters 495,896,000
Lobsters, averaging 1 lb each 1,200,000 1,200,000
Crabs, averaging 1 lb each 600,000 600,000
Shrimps, 324 to a pint 498,428,648
Whelks, 227 to a half-bushel 4,943,200
Mussels, 1000 to ditto 50,400,000
Cockles, 2000 to ditto 67,392,000
Periwinkles, 4000 to ditto 304,000,000
The whole of the above may be, in round numbers, reckoned to amount to the enormous number of 3,000,000,000 fish, with a weight of 300,000 tons.
The total mentioned above can be estimated to be around 3 billion fish, weighing 300,000 tons.
ADDENDUM AND ANECDOTE.
It will be seen, from the number and variety of the recipes which we have been enabled to give under the head of FISH, that there exists in the salt ocean, and fresh-water rivers, an abundance of aliment, which the present state of gastronomic art enables the cook to introduce to the table in the most agreeable forms, and oftentimes at a very moderate cost.
It can be observed, from the number and variety of recipes we have provided under the section of FISH, that there is a wealth of food in the salty ocean and fresh-water rivers, which today’s culinary skills allow the cook to present at the table in enjoyable ways, often at a reasonable price.
Less nutritious as a food than the flesh of animals, more succulent than vegetables, fish may be termed a middle dish, suited to all temperaments and constitutions; and one which those who are recovering from illness may partake of with safety and advantage.
Fish is less nutritious than meat but more flavorful than vegetables, making it a balanced option suitable for everyone. It's a safe and beneficial choice for those recovering from illness.
As to which is the best fish, there has been much discussion. The old Latin proverb, however, de gustibus non disputandum, and the more modern Spanish one, sobre los gustos no hai disputa, declare, with equal force, that where taste is concerned, no decision can be arrived at. Each person's palate may be differently affected—pleased or displeased; and there is no standard by which to judge why a red mullet, a sole, or a turbot, should be better or worse than a salmon, trout, pike, or a tiny tench.
When it comes to the best fish, there's been a lot of debate. The old Latin saying, de gustibus non disputandum, and the more modern Spanish version, sobre los gustos no hai disputa, both emphasize that when it comes to taste, there’s no conclusive answer. Everyone's taste buds are unique—some might enjoy a flavor while others don't; and there’s no way to determine why a red mullet, a sole, or a turbot might be considered better or worse than a salmon, trout, pike, or a small tench.
Fish, as we have explained, is less nourishing than meat; for it is lighter in weight, size for size, and contains no ozmazome (see No. 100). Shell-fish, oysters particularly, furnish but little nutriment; and this is the reason why so many of the latter can be eaten without injury to the system.
Fish, as we've explained, is not as nutritious as meat; it's lighter in weight, size for size, and doesn't have any ozmazome (see No. 100). Shellfish, especially oysters, provide very little nourishment; this is why so many of them can be eaten without harming the body.
In Brillat Savarin's [Footnote: Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer and judge of considerable eminence and great talents, and wrote, under the above title, a book on gastronomy, full of instructive information, enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote.] clever and amusing volume, "The Physiology of Taste," he says, that towards the end of the eighteenth century it was a most common thing for a well-arranged entertainment in Paris to commence with oysters, and that many guests were not contented without swallowing twelve dozen. Being anxious to know the weight of this advanced-guard, he ascertained that a dozen oysters, fluid included, weighed 4 ounces,—thus, the twelve dozen would weigh about 3 lbs.; and there can be no doubt, that the same persons who made no worse a dinner on account of having partaken of the oysters, would have been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same weight of chicken or mutton. An anecdote, perfectly well authenticated, is narrated of a French gentleman (M. Laperte), residing at Versailles, who was extravagantly fond of oysters, declaring he never had enough. Savarin resolved to procure him the satisfaction, and gave him an invitation to dinner, which was duly accepted. The guest arrived, and his host kept company with him in swallowing the delicious bivalves up to the tenth dozen, when, exhausted, he gave up, and let M. Laperte go on alone. This gentleman managed to eat thirty-two dozen within an hour, and would doubtless have got through more, but the person who opened them is described as not being very skilful. In the interim Savarin was idle, and at length, tired with his painful state of inaction, he said to Laperte, whilst the latter was still in full career, "Mon cher, you will not eat as many oysters to-day as you meant; let us dine." They dined, and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the repast as if he had fasted for a week.
In Brillat Savarin's [Footnote: Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer and judge of considerable eminence and great talents, and wrote, under the above title, a book on gastronomy, full of instructive information, enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote.] clever and entertaining book, "The Physiology of Taste," he mentions that toward the end of the eighteen hundreds, it was very common for a well-planned gathering in Paris to start with oysters, and many guests were not satisfied unless they consumed twelve dozen. Curious about the weight of this first course, he found out that a dozen oysters, including the liquid, weighed 4 ounces—so twelve dozen would weigh about 3 pounds. There’s no doubt that the same people who felt no worse for dinner after eating the oysters would have been completely satisfied if they had eaten the same amount of chicken or lamb. There’s a well-documented story about a French gentleman (M. Laperte) living in Versailles, who was extremely fond of oysters and stated he never had enough. Savarin decided to give him the opportunity, inviting him to dinner, which was happily accepted. The guest arrived, and the host joined him in devouring oysters until the tenth dozen, when he became exhausted and let M. Laperte continue on his own. This gentleman managed to eat thirty-two dozen in under an hour, and probably could have eaten more, but the person opening the oysters was not very skilled. Meanwhile, Savarin was doing nothing, and eventually, tired of his frustrating inactivity, he said to Laperte, while he was still going strong, "My dear, you won’t eat as many oysters today as you intended; let’s have dinner." They dined, and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the meal as if he had fasted for a week.
FISH CARVING.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH.
In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes, as, if these are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should be acquainted, too, with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give each guest an equal share of these titbits should be his maxim. Steel knives and forks should on no account be used in helping fish, as these are liable to impart to it a very disagreeable flavour. Where silver fish-carvers are considered too dear to be bought, good electro-plated ones answer very well, and are inexpensive. The prices set down for them by Messrs. Slack, of the Strand, are from a guinea upwards.
When carving fish, be careful to create perfect flakes because if they break, the fish loses its beauty. The person carving should also know the best parts and pieces, and it should be their goal to give each guest an equal share of these little treats. Steel knives and forks should never be used for serving fish, as they can give it an unpleasant taste. If silver fish carvers are considered too expensive, good electro-plated ones work just as well and are affordable. The prices listed by Messrs. Slack, of the Strand, start from a guinea.
COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.
(For recipe, see No. 232; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate C.)
(For the recipe, see No. 232; and for the serving method, Coloured Plate C.)
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
First run the knife along the centre of the side of the fish, namely, from d to b, down to the bone; then carve it in unbroken slices downwards from d to e, or upwards from d to c, as shown in the engraving. The carver should ask the guests if they would like a portion of the roe and liver.
First, run the knife along the center of the side of the fish, from d to b, down to the bone; then cut it into smooth slices downwards from d to e, or upwards from d to c, as shown in the engraving. The person carving should ask the guests if they would like some of the roe and liver.
Note.—Of this fish, the parts about the backbone and shoulders are the firmest, and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The sound, which lines the fish beneath the backbone, is considered a delicacy, as are also the gelatinous parts about the head and neck.
Note.—In this fish, the parts around the backbone and shoulders are the most firm and highly valued by experts. The sound that lines the fish beneath the backbone is seen as a delicacy, along with the gelatinous areas around the head and neck.
SALMON.
(For recipe, see No. 301; and for mode of dressing, Coloured Plate B.)
(For recipe, see No. 301; and for dressing method, Coloured Plate B.)
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
First run the knife quite down to the bone, along the side of the fish, from a to b, and also from c to d. Then help the thick part lengthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from a to b; and the thin part breadthwise, that is, in the direction of the lines from e to f, as shown in the engraving. A slice of the thick part should always be accompanied by a smaller piece of the thin from the belly, where lies the fat of the fish.
First, cut the knife all the way down to the bone along the side of the fish, from a to b, and also from c to d. Then slice the thick part lengthwise, meaning in the direction of the lines from a to b; and the thin part crosswise, meaning in the direction of the lines from e to f, as shown in the illustration. A piece of the thick part should always be served with a smaller piece of the thin from the belly, where the fat of the fish is located.
Note.—Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicing the thick part of this fish in the opposite direction to that we have stated; and thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of its appearance is destroyed.
Note.—Many people, when carving salmon, mistakenly slice the thick part of the fish in the opposite direction from what we’ve mentioned; as a result, the flakes break, ruining its appearance.
BOILED OR FRIED SOLE.
(For recipes, see Nos. 321 and 327.)
(For recipes, see Nos. 321 and 327.)
The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone and all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. A moderately-sized sole will be sufficient for three slices; namely, the head, middle, and tail. The guests should be asked which of these they prefer. A small one will only give two slices. If the sole is very large, the upper side may be raised from the bone, and then divided into pieces; and the under side afterwards served in the same way.
The standard way to prepare this fish is to cut it all the way through, including the bones, and serve it in nice, not too big pieces. A medium-sized sole will yield three portions: the head, the middle, and the tail. Guests should be asked which part they prefer. A smaller sole will only provide two portions. If the sole is very large, you can lift the top fillet from the bones and then cut it into pieces; the bottom side can be served in the same manner afterward.
In helping FILLETED SOLES, one fillet is given to each person. (For mode of serving, see Coloured Plate A.)
In serving FILLETED SOLES, one fillet is provided for each person. (For serving style, see Coloured Plate A.)
TURBOT.
(For recipe, see No. 337; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate E.)
(For the recipe, see No. 337; and for how to serve it, Coloured Plate E.)
First run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish, quite through to the bone, from a to b, and then cut handsome and regular slices in the direction of the lines downwards, from c to e, and upwards from c to d, as shown in the engraving. When the carver has removed all the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backbone should be raised, put on one side of the dish, and the under side helped as the upper.
First, run the fish knife down the thickest part of the fish, all the way to the bone, from a to b. Then, cut nice and even slices following the lines downward from c to e, and upward from c to d, as shown in the illustration. Once the carver has taken all the meat from the top side of the fish, the backbone should be lifted, set to one side of the dish, and the underside served just like the top.
A BRILL and JOHN DORY are carved in the same manner as a Turbot.
A BRILL and JOHN DORY are filleted in the same way as a Turbot.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Note.—The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices in a turbot; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well as a little of the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and should be placed on each plate.
Note.—The thicker sections in the middle of a turbot's back are the prime cuts; additionally, the luscious gelatinous skin covering the fish and a bit of the thick part of the fins are delicacies that should be served on each plate.
WHITING, &c.
WHITING, etc.
Whiting, pike, haddock, and other fish, when of a sufficiently large size, may be carved in the same manner as salmon. When small, they may be cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice pieces, a middling-sized whiting serving for two slices.
Whiting, pike, haddock, and other fish, when they are big enough, can be filleted just like salmon. When they are small, they can be cut through, bones and all, and served in nice pieces, with a medium-sized whiting providing two portions.
Note.—The THICK part of the EEL is reckoned the best; and this holds good of all flat fish.
Note.—The THICK part of the EEL is considered the best; and this is true for all flat fish.
The TAIL of the LOBSTER is the prime part, and next to that the CLAWS.
The tail of the lobster is the best part, followed closely by the claws.
[Illustration: FISH CARVERS.]
[Illustration: Fish Carvers.]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.
CHAPTER IX.
GENERAL REMARKS.
354. AN ANECDOTE IS TOLD of the prince de Soubise, who, intending to give an entertainment, asked for the bill of fare. His chef came, presenting a list adorned with vignettes, and the first article of which, that met the prince's eye, was "fifty hams." "Bertrand," said the prince, "I think you must be extravagant; Fifty hams! do you intend to feast my whole regiment?" "No, Prince, there will be but one on the table, and the surplus I need for my Espagnole, blondes, garnitures, &c." "Bertrand, you are robbing me: this item will not do." "Monseigneur," said the artiste, "you do not appreciate me. Give me the order, and I will put those fifty hams in a crystal flask no longer than my thumb." The prince smiled, and the hams were passed. This was all very well for the prince de Soubise; but as we do not write for princes and nobles alone, but that our British sisters may make the best dishes out of the least expensive ingredients, we will also pass the hams, and give a few general directions concerning Sauces, &c.
354. A STORY IS TOLD about the Prince de Soubise, who was planning a party and asked for the menu. His chef came with a list decorated with illustrations, and the first item that caught the prince’s attention was “fifty hams.” “Bertrand,” the prince said, “I think you must be overdoing it; Fifty hams! Are you planning to feed my entire regiment?” “No, Prince, there will only be one on the table, and the rest I need for my Espagnole, blondes, garnitures, etc.” “Bertrand, you’re robbing me: that item won’t work.” “Your Highness,” the chef replied, “you don’t understand my talent. If you give me the order, I can fit those fifty hams into a crystal flask no longer than my thumb.” The prince smiled, and the hams were approved. This was great for the Prince de Soubise, but since we don’t write just for princes and nobles, and we want our British sisters to make the best dishes using affordable ingredients, we’ll skip the hams and provide a few general guidelines about sauces, etc.
355. THE PREPARATION AND APPEARANCE OF SAUCES AND GRAVIES are of the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the various viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that they may harmonize and blend with them as perfectly, so to speak, as does a pianoforte accompaniment with the voice of the singer.
355. THE PREPARATION AND APPEARANCE OF SAUCES AND GRAVIES are extremely important, and the skill and taste of the cook are most evident here. It’s essential to study how well they pair with the different dishes they’re meant to enhance, so that they harmonize and blend with them as perfectly as a piano accompaniment does with a singer’s voice.
356. THE GENERAL BASIS OF MOST GRAVIES and some sauces is the same stock as that used for soups (see Nos. 104, 105, 106, and 107); and, by the employment of these, with, perhaps, an additional slice of ham, a little spice, a few herbs, and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce or ketchup, very nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure. A milt (either of a bullock or sheep), the shank-end of mutton that has already been dressed, and the necks and feet of poultry, may all be advantageously used for gravy, where much is not required. It may, then, be established as a rule, that there exists no necessity for good gravies to be expensive, and that there is no occasion, as many would have the world believe, to buy ever so many pounds of fresh meat, in order to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy.
356. THE BASIC INGREDIENTS FOR MOST GRAVIES and some sauces are the same stock used for soups (see Nos. 104, 105, 106, and 107); by using these, along with maybe an extra slice of ham, a bit of spice, a few herbs, and a hint of flavor from some cold sauce or ketchup, you can create really good gravies for very little cost. A milt (either from a bull or a sheep), the shank-end of already dressed mutton, and the necks and feet of poultry can all be effectively used for gravy when you don’t need much. Therefore, it can be said that there's no need for good gravies to be expensive, and it’s not necessary, as some people might have you think, to buy many pounds of fresh meat just to make a small amount of gravy.
357. BROWN SAUCES, generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as white sauces; and it is well to bear in mind, that all those which are intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, should be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, &c., browned flour may be properly employed.
357. BROWN SAUCES, generally speaking, shouldn't be as thick as white sauces; and it's important to remember that any sauces meant to cover poultry or meat dishes should have just the right consistency to lightly stick to the birds or cuts of meat that they are served with. For browning and thickening sauces, etc., browned flour can be used effectively.
358. SAUCES SHOULD POSSESS A DECIDED CHARACTER; and whether sharp or sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner, although, of course, not so much flavoured as to make them too piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other.
358. SAUCES SHOULD HAVE A DISTINCT CHARACTER; whether they are tangy or sweet, savory or plain, they should clearly represent their names in a noticeable way, but not be so strong in flavor that they become overly spicy on one side or too sugary on the other.
359. GRAVIES AND SAUCES SHOULD BE SENT TO TABLE VERY HOT; and there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as, from their being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. Those sauces, of which cream or eggs form a component part, should be well stirred, as soon as these ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil; as, in that case, they would instantly curdle.
359. Gravy and sauces should be served very hot; and it’s especially important for the cook to ensure this, since they are typically served in small amounts and can cool down faster than larger servings. Sauces that include cream or eggs should be stirred well as soon as these ingredients are added and must never be allowed to boil; otherwise, they will curdle immediately.
360. ALTHOUGH PICKLES MAY BE PURCHASED at shops at as low a rate as they can usually be made for at home, or perhaps even for less, yet we would advise all housewives, who have sufficient time and convenience, to prepare their own. The only general rules, perhaps, worth stating here,—as in the recipes all necessary details will be explained, are, that the vegetables and fruits used should be sound, and not over ripe, and that the very best vinegar should be employed.
360. EVEN THOUGH PICKLES CAN BE BOUGHT in stores for about the same price they can usually be made at home, or maybe even less, we recommend that all homemakers who have enough time and resources make their own. The only general rules worth mentioning here—since all the necessary details will be covered in the recipes—are that the vegetables and fruits should be fresh and not overripe, and that the best quality vinegar should be used.
361. FOR FORCEMEATS, SPECIAL ATTENTION IS NECESSARY. The points which cooks should, in this branch of cookery, more particularly observe, are the thorough chopping of the suet, the complete mincing of the herbs, the careful grating of the bread-crumbs, and the perfect mixing of the whole. These are the three principal ingredients of forcemeats, and they can scarcely be cut too small, as nothing like a lump or fibre should be anywhere perceptible. To conclude, the flavour of no one spice or herb should be permitted to predominate.
361. FOR FORCEMEATS, SPECIAL ATTENTION IS NECESSARY. Cooks should pay close attention to thoroughly chopping the suet, completely mincing the herbs, carefully grating the breadcrumbs, and perfectly mixing everything together. These are the three main ingredients for forcemeats, and they can hardly be cut too small, as no lumps or fibers should be noticeable at all. Lastly, no single spice or herb should dominate the flavor.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER X.
SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.
ANCHOVY SAUCE FOR FISH.
362. INGREDIENTS.—4 anchovies, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of melted butter, cayenne to taste.
362. INGREDIENTS.—4 anchovies, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of melted butter, cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode.—Bone the anchovies, and pound them in a mortar to a paste, with 1 oz. of butter. Make the melted butter hot, stir in the pounded anchovies and cayenne; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes; and if liked, add a squeeze of lemon-juice. A more general and expeditious way of making this sauce is to stir in 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence to 1/2 pint of melted butter, and to add seasoning to taste. Boil the whole up for 1 minute, and serve hot.
Mode.—Remove the bones from the anchovies and mash them in a mortar with 1 oz. of butter until you have a paste. Heat the melted butter, mix in the mashed anchovies and cayenne, and let it simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. If you like, add a squeeze of lemon juice. A quicker and more straightforward way to make this sauce is to mix 1-1/2 tablespoons of anchovy essence into 1/2 pint of melted butter, then add seasoning to taste. Bring it to a boil for 1 minute and serve hot.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, 5d. for 1/2 pint.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, 5p. for 1/2 pint.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a brill, small turbot, 3 or 4 soles, &c.
Enough, this amount, for a brill, small turbot, 3 or 4 soles, &c.
ANCHOVY BUTTER (see No. 227).
ANCHOVY BUTTER (see No. 227).
[Illustration: THE CAPISCUM.]
[Illustration: THE CAPSICUM.]
CAYENNE.—This is the most acrid and stimulating spice with which we are acquainted. It is a powder prepared from several varieties of the capsicum annual East-India plants, of which there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able to grow in the open air: these are the Guinea, the Cherry, and the Bell pepper. All the pods of these are extremely pungent to the taste, and in the green state are used by us as a pickle. When ripe, they are ground into cayenne pepper, and sold as a condiment. The best of this, however, is made in the West Indies, from what is called the Bird pepper, on account of hens and turkeys being extremely partial to it. It is imported ready for use. Of the capiscum species of plants there are five; but the principal are,—1. Capsicum annuum, the common long-podded capsicum, which is cultivated in our gardens, and of which there are two varieties, one with red, and another with yellow fruit. 2. Capsicum baccatum, or bird pepper, which rises with a shrubby stalk four or five feet high, with its berries growing at the division of the branches: this is small, oval-shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from which, as we have said, the best cayenne is made. 3. Capsicum grossum, the bell-pepper: the fruit of this is red, and is the only kind fit for pickling.
CAYENNE.—This is the most intense and stimulating spice that we know of. It’s a powder made from several types of capsicum annual plants from East India, three of which have become naturalized here and can grow outdoors: the Guinea, the Cherry, and the Bell pepper. All of these pods are very spicy, and when they're green, we use them as a pickle. Once ripe, they’re ground into cayenne pepper and sold as a condiment. However, the best cayenne comes from the West Indies, made from what’s known as the Bird pepper, because hens and turkeys really like it. It’s imported ready to use. There are five species of capsicum, but the main ones are: 1. Capsicum annuum, the common long-podded capsicum, which we grow in our gardens, with one variety producing red fruit and another yellow. 2. Capsicum baccatum, or bird pepper, which grows as a shrub four to five feet tall, with its berries appearing where the branches split: these are small, oval, and bright red, and as mentioned, the best cayenne comes from this. 3. Capsicum grossum, the bell pepper: its fruit is red and is the only type suitable for pickling.
APPLE SAUCE FOR GEESE, PORK, &c.
APPLE SAUCE FOR GEESE, PORK, &c.
363. INGREDIENTS.—6 good-sized apples, sifted sugar to taste, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, water.
363. INGREDIENTS.—6 medium apples, sugar to taste, a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, water.
Mode.—Pare, core, and quarter the apples, and throw them into cold water to preserve their whiteness. Put them in a saucepan, with sufficient water to moisten them, and boil till soft enough to pulp. Beat them up, adding sugar to taste, and a small piece of butter This quantity is sufficient for a good-sized tureen.
Mode.—Peel, core, and quarter the apples, then place them in cold water to keep them from browning. Put them in a saucepan with enough water to moisten them and boil until they’re soft enough to mash. Mash them up, adding sugar to your liking and a small piece of butter. This amount is enough for a medium-sized bowl.
Time.—According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. Average cost, 4d.
Time.—According to the apples, about 45 minutes. Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a goose or couple of ducks.
Sufficient, this amount, for a goose or a couple of ducks.
BROWN APPLE SAUCE.
364. INGREDIENTS.—6 good-sized apples, 1/2 pint of brown gravy, cayenne to taste.
364. INGREDIENTS.—6 medium apples, 1/2 pint of brown gravy, cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode. Put the gravy in a stewpan, and add the apples, after having pared, cored, and quartered them. Let them simmer gently till tender; beat them to a pulp, and season with cayenne. This sauce is preferred by many to the preceding.
Mode. Put the gravy in a saucepan, and add the apples, after peeling, coring, and quartering them. Let them simmer gently until they’re tender; mash them into a pulp, and season with cayenne. Many people prefer this sauce to the previous one.
Time.—According to the apples, about 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—Based on the apples, about 45 minutes. Average cost, 6d.
ASPARAGUS SAUCE.
365. INGREDIENTS.—1 bunch of green asparagus, salt, 1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 small bunch of parsley, 3 or 4 green onions, 1 large lump of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of sauce tournée.
365. INGREDIENTS.—1 bunch of green asparagus, salt, 1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 small bunch of parsley, 3 or 4 green onions, 1 large piece of sugar, 4 tablespoons of sauce tournée.
Mode.—Break the asparagus in the tender part, wash well, and put them into boiling salt and water to render them green. When they are tender, take them out, and put them into cold water; drain them on a cloth till all moisture is absorbed from them. Put the butter in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; lay in the asparagus, and fry the whole over a sharp fire for 5 minutes. Add salt, the sugar and sauce tournée, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Rub all through a tammy, and if not a very good colour, use a little spinach green. This sauce should be rather sweet.
Method.—Snap the asparagus at the tender part, wash it thoroughly, and place it in boiling salted water to turn it bright green. Once tender, remove it and transfer it to cold water; then drain it on a cloth until all moisture is absorbed. Melt the butter in a saucepan with the parsley and onions; add the asparagus and sauté everything over high heat for 5 minutes. Season with salt, add the sugar and sauce tournée, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Pass everything through a fine sieve, and if the color isn’t very good, add a bit of spinach green. This sauce should be on the sweeter side.
Time.—Altogether 40 minutes.
Duration.—Total 40 minutes.
Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 4d.
Average cost for this quantity, 1s. 4d.
ASPIC, or ORNAMENTAL SAVOURY JELLY.
ASPIC, or decorative savory jelly.
366. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 1 cow-heel, 3 or 4 slices of ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning to taste of salt and whole white pepper; 3 eggs.
366. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of veal knuckle, 1 cow's heel, 3 or 4 slices of ham, any leftover poultry, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bundle of savory herbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning to taste with salt and whole white pepper; 3 eggs.
Mode.—Lay the ham on the bottom of a stewpan, cut up the veal and cow-heel into small pieces, and lay them on the ham; add the poultry trimmings, vegetables, herbs, sherry, and water, and let the whole simmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully taking away all scum that may rise to the surface; strain through a fine sieve, and pour into an earthen pan to get cold. Have ready a clean stewpan, put in the jelly, and be particular to leave the sediment behind, or it will not be clear. Add the whites of 3 eggs, with salt and pepper, to clarify; keep stirring over the fire, till the whole becomes very white; then draw it to the side, and let it stand till clear. When this is the case, strain it through a cloth or jelly-bag, and use it for moulding poultry, etc. (See Explanation of French Terms, page 44.) Tarragon vinegar may be added to give an additional flavour.
Method.—Place the ham at the bottom of a saucepan, chop the veal and cow's heel into small pieces, and layer them on top of the ham. Add the leftover poultry, vegetables, herbs, sherry, and water. Let everything simmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve and pour it into an earthenware dish to cool. Prepare a clean saucepan, add the jelly, making sure to leave the sediment behind for clarity. Add the whites of 3 eggs, along with salt and pepper, to clarify the mixture; continue stirring over the heat until it turns very white. Then move it to the side and let it sit until clear. Once this is achieved, strain it through a cloth or jelly bag, and use it for molding poultry, etc. (See Explanation of French Terms, page 44.) You can add tarragon vinegar for extra flavor.
Time.—Altogether 4-1/2 hours. Average cost for this quantity, 4s.
Time.—Total 4.5 hours. Average cost for this amount, £0.20.
WHITE PEPPER.—This is the produce of the same plant as that which produces the black pepper, from which it is manufactured by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the hands till the coats come off. The best berries only will bear this operation; hence the superior qualities of white pepper fetch a higher price than those of the other. It is less acrid than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. It is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with burnt bread. The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a bright-red colour. After being gathered, which is done when they are green, they are spread out in the sun, where they dry and become black and shrivelled, when they are ready for being prepared for the market.
WHITE PEPPER.—This comes from the same plant as black pepper, and it's made by soaking the berries in lime and water, then rubbing them between your hands until the skins come off. Only the best berries can handle this process, which is why the higher quality white pepper costs more than the other varieties. It's less pungent than black pepper and is highly valued by the Chinese. Sometimes it's mixed with rice flour, just like black pepper can be cut with burnt bread. The berries grow in spikes of twenty to thirty and are bright red when ripe. They’re harvested when green, then spread out in the sun to dry, turning them black and shriveled, which makes them ready for the market.
BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.
Bechamel, or French white sauce.
367. INGREDIENTS.—1 small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, 1/2 bay-leaf, 1 small faggot of savoury herbs, salt to taste; 3 or 4 mushrooms, when obtainable; 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of arrowroot.
367. INGREDIENTS.—1 small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, 1/2 bay leaf, 1 small bundle of savory herbs, salt to taste; 3 or 4 mushrooms, if available; 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoon of arrowroot.
Mode.—Put the stock into a stewpan, with the parsley, cloves, bay-leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; add a seasoning of salt, but no pepper, as that would give the sauce a dusty appearance, and should be avoided. When it has boiled long enough to extract the flavour of the herbs, etc., strain it, and boil it up quickly again, until it is nearly half-reduced. Now mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cream, and let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes over a slow fire; pour to it the reduced stock, and continue to simmer slowly for 10 minutes, if the sauce be thick. If, on the contrary, it be too thin, it must be stirred over a sharp fire till it thickens. This is the foundation of many kinds of sauces, especially white sauces. Always make it thick, as you can easily thin it with cream, milk, or white stock.
Mode.—Place the stock in a saucepan, with the parsley, cloves, bay leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; add a pinch of salt, but no pepper, as it would make the sauce look dull and should be avoided. Once it has boiled long enough to extract the flavors from the herbs, strain it, and bring it back to a boil quickly until it's reduced by nearly half. Now mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cream, and let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes over low heat; then pour in the reduced stock, and continue to simmer slowly for 10 minutes if the sauce is thick. If, on the other hand, it’s too thin, you’ll need to stir it over higher heat until it thickens. This serves as the base for many types of sauces, particularly white sauces. Always aim to make it thick, as you can easily thin it out with cream, milk, or white stock.
Time.—Altogether, 2 hours. Average cost, 1s. per pint.
Time.—Total: 2 hours. Average cost: 1 shilling per pint.
[Illustration: THE CLOVE.]
[Illustration: THE CLOVE.]
THE CLOVE.—The clove-tree is a native of the Molucca Islands, particularly Amboyna, and attains the height of a laurel-tree, and no verdure is ever seen under it. From the extremities of the branches quantities of flowers grow, first white; then they become green, and next red and hard, when they have arrived at their clove state. When they become dry, they assume a yellowish hue, which subsequently changes into a dark brown. As an aromatic, the clove is highly stimulating, and yields an abundance of oil. There are several varieties of the clove; the best is called the royal clove, which is scarce, and which is blacker and smaller than the other kinds. It is a curious fact, that the flowers, when fully developed, are quite inodorous, and that the real fruit is not in the least aromatic. The form is that of a nail, having a globular head, formed of the four petals of the corolla, and four leaves of the calyx not expanded, with a nearly cylindrical germen, scarcely an inch in length, situate below.
THE CLOVE.—The clove tree is originally from the Molucca Islands, especially Amboyna, and it grows as tall as a laurel tree, with no greenery found beneath it. The ends of the branches produce lots of flowers that start off white; then they turn green, and finally red and hard when they reach their clove stage. When they dry, they turn a yellowish color that later becomes a dark brown. As a spice, the clove is very stimulating and produces a lot of oil. There are several types of clove; the best one is known as the royal clove, which is rare and is darker and smaller than the other varieties. Interestingly, the flowers, when fully grown, are completely odorless, and the actual fruit is not aromatic at all. It has a shape similar to a nail, with a round head made of four petals from the corolla and four unopened calyx leaves, and it features a nearly cylindrical germ underneath, measuring just under an inch in length.
BECHAMEL MAIGRE, or WITHOUT MEAT.
VEGETARIAN BECHAMEL, or WITHOUT MEAT.
368. INGREDIENTS.—2 onions, 1 blade of mace, mushroom trimmings, a small bunch of parsley, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 pint of milk, salt, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 eggs.
368. INGREDIENTS.—2 onions, 1 blade of mace, mushroom scraps, a small bunch of parsley, 1 oz. of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 pint of milk, salt, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 eggs.
Mode.—Put in a stewpan the milk, and 1/2 pint of water, with the onions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, and salt. Let these simmer gently for 20 minutes. In the mean time, rub on a plate 1 oz. of flour and butter; put it to the liquor, and stir it well till it boils up; then place it by the side of the fire, and continue stirring until it is perfectly smooth. Now strain it through a sieve into a basin, after which put it back in the stewpan, and add the lemon-juice. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with about 4 dessertspoonfuls of milk; strain this to the sauce, keep stirring it over the fire, but do not let it boil, lest it curdle.
Method.—In a saucepan, combine the milk and 1/2 pint of water with the onions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, and salt. Allow this to simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, on a plate, mix 1 oz. of flour and butter; then add this mixture to the liquid and stir well until it comes to a boil. After that, move it to the side of the stove and keep stirring until it's completely smooth. Next, strain it through a sieve into a bowl, and then return it to the saucepan. Add the lemon juice. Whisk the egg yolks with about 4 dessertspoonfuls of milk; strain this into the sauce, continuing to stir it over the heat, but make sure it doesn’t boil, or it will curdle.
Time.—Altogether, 3/4 hour. Average cost, 5d. per pint.
Time.—Total time, 45 minutes. Average cost, 5 pence per pint.
This is a good sauce to pour over boiled fowls when they are a bad colour.
This is a good sauce to pour over boiled chicken when they don't look great.
PICKLED BEETROOT.
369. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient vinegar to cover the beets, 2 oz. of whole pepper, 2 oz. of allspice to each gallon of vinegar.
369. INGREDIENTS.—Enough vinegar to cover the beets, 2 oz. of whole pepper, and 2 oz. of allspice for each gallon of vinegar.
Mode.—Wash the beets free from dirt, and be very careful not to prick the outside skin, or they would lose their beautiful colour. Put them into boiling water, let them simmer gently, and when about three parts done, which will be in 1-1/2 hour, take them out and let them cool. Boil the vinegar with pepper and allspice, in the above proportion, for ten minutes, and when cold, pour it on the beets, which must be peeled and cut into slices about 1/2 inch thick. Cover with bladder to exclude the air, and in a week they will be fit for use.
Mode.—Wash the beets thoroughly to remove dirt, and be careful not to pierce the skin, or they will lose their vibrant color. Place them in boiling water, let them simmer gently, and when they're about three-quarters done, which will take around 1.5 hours, take them out and let them cool. Boil the vinegar with pepper and allspice in the specified amounts for ten minutes, and once it's cool, pour it over the beets, which should be peeled and sliced into pieces about ½ inch thick. Cover with a bladder to keep out the air, and in a week they'll be ready to eat.
Average cost, 3s. per gallon.
Average cost, 3 shillings per gallon.
[Illustration: BLACK PEPPER.]
[Illustration: BLACK PEPPER.]
BLACK PEPPER.—This well-known aromatic spice is the fruit of a species of climbing vine, and is a native of the East Indies, and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the eastern islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and others in the same latitude. It was formerly confined to these countries, but it has now been introduced to Cayenne. It is generally employed as a condiment; but it should never be forgotten, that, even in small quantities, it produces detrimental effects on inflammatory constitutions. Dr. Paris, in his work on Diet, says, "Foreign spices were not intended by Nature for the inhabitants of temperate climes; they are heating, and highly stimulant. I am, however, not anxious to give more weight to this objection than it deserves. Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the passive inhabitant of any particular region. He ranges over every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the productions of every climate. Nature is very kind in favouring the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer our local wants. Those climates, for instance, which engender endemic diseases, are, in general, congenial to the growth of plants that operate as antidotes to them. But if we go to the East for tea, there is no reason why we should not go to the West for sugar. The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be cautious in their use; they may afford temporary benefit, at the expense of permanent mischief. It has been well said, that the best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the tone of the stomach. The intrinsic goodness of meats should always be suspected when they require spicy seasonings to compensate for their natural want of sapidity." The quality of pepper is known by rubbing it between the hands: that which withstands this operation is good, that which is reduced to powder by it is bad. The quantity of pepper imported into Europe is very great.
BLACK PEPPER.—This well-known aromatic spice comes from a species of climbing vine and is native to the East Indies. It is widely grown in Malabar and the eastern islands of Borneo, Sumatra, Java, and other nearby locations. It used to be limited to these regions but has now been introduced to Cayenne. It's mostly used as a seasoning, but it’s important to remember that even in small amounts, it can have harmful effects on people with inflammatory conditions. Dr. Paris, in his book on Diet, states, "Foreign spices weren't meant by Nature for the people in temperate climates; they're heating and highly stimulating. However, I don't want to exaggerate this concern too much. Humans are no longer merely part of Nature or passive residents of their specific regions. We travel all over the world and get nourishment from the products of every climate. Nature is generous in supporting the growth of products that are most suited to our local needs. For example, climates that promote endemic diseases usually also produce plants that act as antidotes. But if we go to the East for tea, there's no reason we shouldn't go to the West for sugar. Those with digestive issues should be careful with their use; they might provide short-term relief at the cost of long-term harm. It's been aptly said that the best thing about spices is that they stimulate the appetite, while the worst is that they can gradually diminish the stomach's tone. The inherent quality of meats should always be questioned when they need spicy seasonings to make up for their natural lack of flavor." The quality of pepper can be checked by rubbing it between your hands: the one that holds up is good, while the one that turns to powder is bad. A large amount of pepper is imported into Europe.
BENTON SAUCE (to serve with Hot or Cold Roast Beef).
BENTON SAUCE (for serving with hot or cold roast beef).
370. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
370. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoon of grated horseradish, 1 teaspoon of prepared mustard, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 4 tablespoons of vinegar.
Mode.—Grate or scrape the horseradish very fine, and mix it with the other ingredients, which must be all well blended together; serve in a tureen. With cold meat, this sauce is a very good substitute for pickles.
Mode.—Grate or finely scrape the horseradish, and mix it with the other ingredients, ensuring everything is well blended together; serve in a tureen. This sauce is a great alternative to pickles when served with cold meat.
Average cost for this quantity, 2d.
Average cost for this quantity, 2p.
BREAD SAUCE (to serve with Roast Turkey, Fowl, Game, &c.).
BREAD SAUCE (to serve with Roast Turkey, Chicken, Game, etc.).
I.
371. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 3/4 of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion; pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1 oz. of butter.
371. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 3/4 of the crumbs from a stale loaf, 1 onion; crushed mace, cayenne pepper, and salt to taste; 1 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Peel and quarter the onion, and simmer it in the milk till perfectly tender. Break the bread, which should be stale, into small pieces, carefully picking out any hard outside pieces; put it in a very clean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it up, and let it remain for an hour to soak. Now beat it up with a fork very smoothly, add a seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. of butter; give the whole one boil, and serve. To enrich this sauce, a small quantity of cream may be added just before sending it to table.
Mode.—Peel and quarter the onion, then simmer it in the milk until it's completely tender. Tear the stale bread into small pieces, making sure to remove any hard crusts; place it in a very clean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it, and let it soak for an hour. Now mix it with a fork until it's very smooth, add a seasoning of ground mace, cayenne pepper, and salt, along with 1 oz. of butter; bring the whole mixture to a boil and serve. To make this sauce richer, a small amount of cream can be added just before serving.
Time.—Altogether, 1-3/4 hour.
Time.—Total: 1 hour 45 minutes.
Average cost for this quantity, 4d.
Average cost for this amount, 4d.
Sufficient to serve with a turkey, pair of fowls, or brace of partridges.
Enough to serve with a turkey, a couple of chickens, or a pair of partridges.
[Illustration: MACE.]
[Illustration: MACE.]
MACE.—This is the membrane which surrounds the shell of the nutmeg. Its general qualities are the same as those of the nutmeg, producing an agreeable aromatic odour, with a hot and acrid taste. It is of an oleaginous nature, is yellowish in its hue, and is used largely as a condiment. In "Beeton's Dictionary" we find that the four largest of the Banda Islands produce 150,000 lbs. of it annually, which, with nutmegs, are their principal articles of export.
MACE.—This is the membrane that surrounds the nutmeg shell. Its overall qualities are similar to nutmeg, creating a pleasant aromatic scent with a spicy and sharp taste. It has an oily texture, is yellowish in color, and is widely used as a seasoning. According to "Beeton's Dictionary," the four largest Banda Islands produce 150,000 lbs. of it each year, making it one of their main export items along with nutmegs.
II.
372. INGREDIENTS.—Giblets of poultry, 3/4 lb. of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water.
372. INGREDIENTS.—Giblets of poultry, 3/4 lb. of the crumb of a stale loaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 2 tablespoons of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Put the giblets, with the head, neck, legs, &c., into a stewpan; add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than 1 pint of water. Let this simmer for an hour, when strain the liquor over the bread, which should be previously grated or broken into small pieces. Cover up the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by the side of the fire; then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps remain, and the whole is nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 or 4 minutes; keep stirring it until it is rather thick; when add 3 tablespoonfuls of good melted butter or cream, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Place the giblets, along with the head, neck, legs, etc., into a saucepan. Add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and a bit more than 1 pint of water. Let this simmer for an hour, then strain the liquid over the bread, which should be grated or broken into small pieces beforehand. Cover the saucepan and let it sit by the fire for an hour; afterwards, mix the sauce with a fork until there are no lumps and it’s nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring until it thickens; then add 3 tablespoons of good melted butter or cream, and serve very hot.
Time.—2-1/4 hours. Average cost, 6d.
Duration.—2.25 hours. Average cost, 6d.
BROWNING FOR GRAVIES AND SAUCES.
373. The browning for soups (see No. 108) answers equally well for sauces and gravies, when it is absolutely necessary to colour them in this manner; but where they can be made to look brown by using ketchup, wine, browned flour, tomatoes, or any colour sauce, it is far preferable. As, however, in cooking, so much depends on appearance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the artificial means (No. 108). When no browning is at hand, and you wish to heighten the colour of your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire; when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavour.
373. The browning for soups (see No. 108) works just as well for sauces and gravies when you need to color them this way; however, if you can achieve a brown color using ketchup, wine, browned flour, tomatoes, or any colored sauce, it's definitely better. Since appearance is so important in cooking, it might be best for inexperienced cooks to use the artificial methods (No. 108). If you don’t have any browning available and want to enhance the color of your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a high heat; once it's liquid, add it to the sauce or gravy while it's still hot. Just be careful not to use too much, as it can make the flavor quite unpleasant.
BEURRE NOIR, or BROWNED BUTTER (a French Sauce).
BEURRE NOIR, or BROWNED BUTTER (a French Sauce).
374. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste.
374. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 tablespoons of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Put the butter into a fryingpan over a nice clear fire, and when it smokes, throw in the parsley, and add the vinegar and seasoning. Let the whole simmer for a minute or two, when it is ready to serve. This is a very good sauce for skate.
Mode.—Place the butter in a frying pan over a nice clear fire, and when it starts to smoke, add the parsley, vinegar, and seasoning. Let it simmer for a minute or two, and then it’s ready to serve. This is a great sauce for skate.
Time.—1/4 hour.
Time.—15 minutes.
CLARIFIED BUTTER.
375. Put the butter in a basin before the fire, and when it melts, stir it round once or twice, and let it settle. Do not strain it unless absolutely necessary, as it causes so much waste. Pour it gently off into a clean dry jar, carefully leaving all sediment behind. Let it cool, and carefully exclude the air by means of a bladder, or piece of wash-leather, tied over. If the butter is salt, it may be washed before melting, when it is to be used for sweet dishes.
375. Put the butter in a bowl in front of the fire, and when it melts, stir it gently a couple of times and let it settle. Don’t strain it unless it’s absolutely necessary since that creates a lot of waste. Carefully pour it into a clean, dry jar, making sure to leave all the sediment behind. Allow it to cool, and tightly cover it with a bladder or a piece of leather to keep out the air. If the butter is salty, you can wash it before melting if you plan to use it for sweet dishes.
MELTED BUTTER.
I.
376. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, 1 wineglassful of water, salt to taste.
376. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 dessert spoon of flour, 1 wine glass of water, salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut the butter up into small pieces, put it in a saucepan, dredge over the flour, and add the water and a seasoning of salt; stir it one way constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If the butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water, but omit the flour; keep stirring it, but do not allow it to boil.
Mode.—Cut the butter into small pieces, put it in a saucepan, sprinkle the flour over it, and add the water along with a bit of salt for seasoning; stir it one way continuously until all the ingredients are melted and well combined. Let it come to a slight boil when it’s ready to serve. If you are melting the butter with cream, use the same amount as you would for water, but skip the flour; keep stirring, but do not let it boil.
Time.—1 minute to simmer.
Time.—1 minute to cook.
Average cost for this quantity, 4d.
Average cost for this amount, 4d.
II.
(More Economical.)
(More Cost-Effective.)
377. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste, 1/2 pint of water.
377. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 1 dessert spoon of flour, salt to taste, 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, which put into a saucepan. Add the butter and a seasoning of salt, keep stirring one way till all the ingredients are melted and perfectly smooth; let the whole boil for a minute or two, and serve.
Mode.—Combine the flour and water to create a smooth batter, then transfer it into a saucepan. Add the butter and a pinch of salt, stirring in one direction until all the ingredients are melted and completely smooth; let it boil for a minute or two, then serve.
Time.—2 minutes to simmer.
Time.—2 minutes to simmer.
Average cost for this quantity, 2d.
Average cost for this amount, 2d.
MELTED BUTTER (the French Sauce Blanche).
MELTED BUTTER (the French White Sauce).
378. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, salt to taste, 1/2 gill of water, 1/2 spoonful of white vinegar, a very little grated nutmeg.
378. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoon of flour, salt to taste, 1/2 gill of water, 1/2 teaspoon of white vinegar, a tiny bit of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, carefully rubbing down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear. Put it in a saucepan with all the other ingredients, and let it thicken on the fire, but do not allow it to boil, lest it should taste of the flour.
Mode.—Combine the flour and water to create a smooth batter, gently breaking up any lumps with the back of a spoon. Transfer it to a saucepan along with all the other ingredients, and let it thicken over heat, but be careful not to let it boil, as that might give it a floury taste.
Time.—1 minute to simmer.
Time.—1 minute to cook.
Average cost, 5d. for this quantity.
Average cost, 5d. for this amount.
[Illustration: THE NUTMEG.]
[Illustration: THE NUTMEG.]
NUTMEG.—This is a native of the Moluccas, and was long kept from being spread in other places by the monopolizing spirit of the Dutch, who endeavoured to keep it wholly to themselves by eradicating it from every other island. We find it stated in "Beeton's Dictionary of Universal Information," under the article "Banda Islands," that the four largest are appropriated to the cultivation of nutmegs, of which about 500,000 lbs. are annually produced. The plant, through the enterprise of the British, has now found its way into Penang and Bencooleu, where it flourishes and produces well. It has also been tried to be naturalized in the West Indies, and it bears fruit all the year round. There are two kinds of nutmeg,—one wild, and long and oval-shaped, the other cultivated, and nearly round. The best is firm and hard, and has a strong aromatic odour, with a hot and acrid taste. It ought to be used with caution by those who are of paralytic or apoplectic habits.
NUTMEG.—This plant is originally from the Moluccas and was long kept from spreading to other places due to the Dutch monopoly, who tried to keep it all to themselves by removing it from every other island. According to "Beeton's Dictionary of Universal Information," under the article "Banda Islands," the four largest islands are dedicated to nutmeg cultivation, producing about 500,000 lbs. each year. Thanks to the efforts of the British, it has now also been introduced to Penang and Bencooleu, where it grows well and yields abundantly. Attempts have also been made to grow it in the West Indies, where it fruits year-round. There are two types of nutmeg: one is wild, long, and oval-shaped, while the other is cultivated and nearly round. The best quality is firm and hard, has a strong aromatic scent, and a hot, acrid taste. It should be used cautiously by those with a tendency towards paralysis or strokes.
THICKENED BUTTER.
379.—INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376, the yolks of 2 eggs, a little lemon-juice.
379.—INGREDIENTS.—1/4 cup of melted butter, No. 376, the yolks of 2 eggs, a splash of lemon juice.
Mode.—Make the butter quite hot, and be careful not to colour it. Well whisk the yolks of the eggs, pour them to the butter, beating them all the while. Make the sauce hot over the fire, but do not let it boil; add a squeeze of lemon-juice.
Mode.—Heat the butter until it's hot, but be careful not to let it brown. Whisk the egg yolks thoroughly, then add them to the butter while continuing to beat the mixture. Warm the sauce over the heat, but don't let it come to a boil; add a squeeze of lemon juice.
MELTED BUTTER MADE WITH MILK.
380. INGREDIENTS.—1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. butter, 1/3 pint of milk, a few grains of salt.
380. INGREDIENTS.—1 teaspoon of flour, 2 oz. butter, 1/3 pint of milk, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Mix the butter and flour smoothly together on a plate, put it into a lined saucepan, and pour in the milk. Keep stirring it one way over a sharp fire; let it boil quickly for a minute or two, and it is ready to serve. This is a very good foundation for onion, lobster, or oyster sauce: using milk instead of water makes it look so much whiter and more delicate.
Method.—Blend the butter and flour together evenly on a plate, transfer it to a lined saucepan, and pour in the milk. Keep stirring in one direction over a high flame; let it boil quickly for a minute or two, and it’s ready to serve. This is a great base for onion, lobster, or oyster sauce: using milk instead of water gives it a much whiter and more delicate appearance.
Time.—Altogether, 10 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, 3d.
Time.—Total, 10 minutes. Average cost for this amount, 3d.
CAMP VINEGAR.
381. INGREDIENTS.—1 head of garlic, 1/2 oz. cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls of soy, 2 ditto walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal to colour.
381. INGREDIENTS.—1 head of garlic, 1/2 oz. cayenne, 2 teaspoons of soy sauce, 2 teaspoons of walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal for coloring.
Mode.—Slice the garlic, and put it, with all the above ingredients, into a clean bottle. Let it stand to infuse for a month, when strain it off quite clear, and it will be fit for use. Keep it in small bottles well sealed, to exclude the air.
Mode.—Chop the garlic and place it, along with all the other ingredients, into a clean bottle. Let it sit to infuse for a month, then strain it until it's completely clear, and it will be ready to use. Store it in small bottles with tight seals to keep the air out.
Average cost for this quantity, 8d.
Average cost for this amount, 8d.
CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.
382. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 3 tablespoonfuls of capers or nasturtiums, 1 tablespoonful of their liquor.
382. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 3 tablespoons of capers or nasturtiums, 1 tablespoon of their liquid.
Mode.—Chop the capers twice or thrice, and add them, with their liquor, to 1/2 pint of melted butter, made very smoothly; keep stirring well; let the sauce just simmer, and serve in a tureen. Pickled nasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured, and by many are eaten in preference to capers. They make an excellent sauce.
Method.—Chop the capers two or three times, then add them along with their liquid to 1/2 pint of smoothly melted butter. Keep stirring well; let the sauce simmer gently, and serve it in a tureen. Pickled nasturtium pods are flavorful and are preferred by many over capers. They make an excellent sauce.
Time.—2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 8d.
Time.—2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 8d.
Sufficient to serve with a leg of mutton.
Sufficient to serve with a leg of lamb.
CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH.
383. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter No. 376, 3 dessertspoonfuls of capers, 1 dessertspoonful of their liquor, a small piece of glaze, if at hand (this may be dispensed with), 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, ditto of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence.
383. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter No. 376, 3 dessert spoons of capers, 1 dessert spoon of their juice, a small piece of glaze, if available (this can be skipped), 1/4 teaspoon of salt, the same amount of pepper, 1 tablespoon of anchovy essence.
Mode.—Cut the capers across once or twice, but do not chop them fine; put them in a saucepan with 1/2 pint of good melted butter, and add all the other ingredients. Keep stirring the whole until it just simmers, when it is ready to serve.
Mode.—Slice the capers once or twice, but don't chop them too small; place them in a saucepan with 1/2 pint of quality melted butter, and add all the other ingredients. Keep stirring everything until it just simmers, and then it's ready to serve.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 5d.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost for this amount, 5p.
Sufficient to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3 slices of salmon.
Enough to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3 slices of salmon.
[Illustration: THE CAPER.]
[Illustration: THE CAPER.]
CAPERS.—These are the unopened buds of a low trailing shrub, which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece, as well as in northern Africa: the plant, however, has come to be cultivated in the south of Europe. After being pickled in vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the south of France. The best are from Toulon.
CAPERS.—These are the unopened buds of a low creeping shrub that grows wild in the rocky areas of Greece and northern Africa; however, the plant is now also cultivated in southern Europe. After being pickled in vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the south of France. The best ones come from Toulon.
A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE.
384. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, 2 tablespoonfuls of cut parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
384. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of vinegar.
Mode.—Boil the parsley slowly to let it become a bad colour; cut, but do not chop it fine. Add it to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter, with salt and vinegar in the above proportions. Boil up and serve.
Mode.—Slowly boil the parsley until it changes color; cut it, but don’t chop it finely. Add it to 1/2 pint of smoothly melted butter, with salt and vinegar in the mentioned proportions. Bring it to a boil and serve.
Time.—2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 3d.
Time.—2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this amount, 3d.
PICKLED CAPSICUMS.
385. INGREDIENTS.—Vinegar, 1/4 oz. of pounded mace, and 1/4 oz. of grated nutmeg, to each quart; brine.
385. INGREDIENTS.—Vinegar, 1/4 oz. of ground mace, and 1/4 oz. of grated nutmeg, for each quart; brine.
Mode.—Gather the pods with the stalks on, before they turn red; slit them down the side with a small-pointed knife, and remove the seeds only; put them in a strong brine for 3 days, changing it every morning; then take them out, lay them on a cloth, with another one over them, until they are perfectly free from moisture. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, with mace and nutmeg in the above proportions; put the pods in a jar, pour over the vinegar when cold, and exclude them from the air by means of a wet bladder tied over.
Mode.—Pick the pods with the stems still attached before they turn red; slice them down the side with a small, sharp knife, and only remove the seeds. Soak them in a strong brine for 3 days, changing the brine every morning. After that, take them out and lay them on a cloth, covering them with another cloth, until they are completely dry. Boil enough vinegar to cover them, adding mace and nutmeg in the specified amounts; place the pods in a jar, pour the cooled vinegar over them, and seal it off from air using a wet bladder tied over the top.
CAYENNE VINEGAR, or ESSENCE OF CAYENNE.
Cayenne vinegar or cayenne essence.
386. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 1/2 pint of strong spirit, or 1 pint of vinegar.
386. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 1/2 pint of strong alcohol, or 1 pint of vinegar.
Mode.—Put the vinegar, or spirit, into a bottle, with the above proportion of cayenne, and let it steep for a month, when strain off and bottle for use. This is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces, but must be used very sparingly.
Mode.—Pour the vinegar or spirit into a bottle, add the specified amount of cayenne, and let it sit for a month. After that, strain it and bottle it for use. This makes a great seasoning for soups or sauces, but should be used very sparingly.
CELERY SAUCE, FOR BOILED TURKEY, POULTRY, &c.
CELERY SAUCE, FOR BOILED TURKEY, POULTRY, & etc.
387. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1 pint of white stock, No. 107, 2 blades of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs; thickening of butter and flour, or arrowroot, 1/2 pint of cream, lemon-juice.
387. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1 pint of white stock, No. 107, 2 blades of mace, 1 small bunch of savory herbs; thickening of butter and flour, or arrowroot, 1/2 pint of cream, lemon juice.
Mode.—Boil the celery in salt and water, until tender, and cut it into pieces 2 inches long. Put the stock into a stewpan with the mace and herbs, and let it simmer for 1/2 hour to extract their flavour. Then strain the liquor, add the celery and a thickening of butter kneaded with flour, or, what is still better, with arrowroot; just before serving, put in the cream, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon-juice. If necessary, add a seasoning of salt and white pepper.
Mode.—Boil the celery in saltwater until it's tender, then chop it into 2-inch pieces. Place the stock in a saucepan along with the mace and herbs, and let it simmer for half an hour to draw out their flavor. Next, strain the liquid, add the celery, and thicken it with butter mixed with flour, or better yet, with arrowroot. Just before serving, stir in the cream, bring it to a boil, and squeeze in a little lemon juice. If needed, season with salt and white pepper.
Time.—25 minutes to boil the celery. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Time.—25 minutes to boil the celery. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a boiled turkey.
Enough, this amount, for a boiled turkey.
This sauce may be made brown by using gravy instead of white stock, and flavouring it with mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
This sauce can be made brown by using gravy instead of white stock and flavoring it with mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
[Illustration: ARROWROOT.]
[Illustration: ARROWROOT.]
ARROWROOT.—This nutritious fecula is obtained from the roots of a plant which is cultivated in both the East and West Indies. When the roots are about a year old, they are dug up, and, after being well washed, are beaten to a pulp, which is afterwards, by means of water, separated from the fibrous part. After being passed through a sieve, once more washed, and then suffered to settle, the sediment is dried in the sun, when it has become arrowroot. The best is obtained from the West Indies, but a large quantity of what is sold in London is adulterated with potato-starch. As a means of knowing arrowroot when it is good, it may be as well to state, that the genuine article, when formed into a jelly, will remain firm for three or four days, whilst the adulterated will become as thin as milk in the course of twelve hours.
ARROWROOT.—This nutritious starch is obtained from the roots of a plant cultivated in both the East and West Indies. When the roots are about a year old, they are harvested and thoroughly washed, then beaten into a pulp. This pulp is mixed with water to separate it from the fibrous parts. After being strained through a sieve, it is washed again and allowed to settle. The sediment is then dried in the sun, resulting in arrowroot. The best quality comes from the West Indies, but a significant amount sold in London is mixed with potato starch. To identify good arrowroot, note that the genuine product, when made into a jelly, will remain firm for three or four days, while the adulterated version will turn thin like milk within twelve hours.
CELERY SAUCE (a More Simple Recipe).
CELERY SAUCE (a simpler recipe).
388. INGREDIENTS.—4 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk (No. 380), 1 blade of pounded mace; salt and white pepper to taste.
388. INGREDIENTS.—4 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk (No. 380), 1 blade of ground mace; salt and white pepper to taste.
Mode.—Wash the celery, boil it in salt and water till tender, and cut it into pieces 2 inches long; make 1/2 pint melted butter by recipe No. 380; put in the celery, pounded mace, and seasoning; simmer for three minutes, when the sauce will be ready to serve.
Mode.—Wash the celery, boil it in salted water until it's tender, and cut it into 2-inch pieces; prepare 1/2 pint of melted butter using recipe No. 380; add the celery, ground mace, and seasoning; simmer for three minutes, and the sauce will be ready to serve.
Time.—25 minutes to boil the celery. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—25 minutes to boil the celery. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a boiled fowl.
Sufficient, this amount, for a boiled chicken.
CELERY VINEGAR.
389. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 oz. of celery-seed, 1 pint of vinegar.
389. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 oz. of celery seed, 1 pint of vinegar.
Mode.—Crush the seed by pounding it in a mortar; boil the vinegar, and when cold, pour it to the seed; let it infuse for a fortnight, when strain and bottle off for use. This is frequently used in salads.
Mode.—Smash the seed by grinding it in a mortar; heat the vinegar until it boils, and when it cools, mix it with the seed; let it steep for two weeks, then strain and bottle it for later use. This is often used in salads.
CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR FOWLS OR TURKEY.
390. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of white stock, 2 strips of lemon-peel, cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of cream or milk.
390. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of white stock, 2 strips of lemon peel, cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of cream or milk.
Mode.—Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts, and put them into boiling water for a few minutes; take off the thin inside peel, and put them into a saucepan, with the white stock and lemon-peel, and let them simmer for 1-1/2 hour, or until the chestnuts are quite tender. Rub the whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon; add seasoning and the cream; let it just simmer, but not boil, and keep stirring all the time. Serve very hot; and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, a very small quantity of thickening may be required: that, of course, the cook will determine.
Mode.—Remove the outer skin of the chestnuts, then place them in boiling water for a few minutes; take off the thin inner peel and put them in a saucepan with the white stock and lemon peel. Let them simmer for 1-1/2 hours, or until the chestnuts are fully tender. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve using a wooden spoon; add seasoning and cream, letting it simmer gently but not boil, stirring constantly. Serve very hot and quickly. If you use milk instead of cream, you may need to add a small amount of thickening, which the cook can determine.
Time.—Altogether nearly two hours. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—About two hours total. Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a turkey.
Enough, this amount, for a turkey.
BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE.
391. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 2 lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce (see Sauces).
391. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of chestnuts, 1/2 pint of stock No. 105, 2 lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoons of Spanish sauce (see Sauces).
Mode.—Prepare the chestnuts as in the foregoing recipe, by scalding and peeling them; put them in a stewpan with the stock and sugar, and simmer them till tender. When done, add Spanish sauce in the above proportion, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to thicken.
Method.—Prepare the chestnuts as in the previous recipe by scalding and peeling them; place them in a saucepan with the stock and sugar, and simmer until tender. Once cooked, add Spanish sauce in the same amount mentioned above, and strain everything through a sieve. Keep this sauce somewhat runny, as it tends to thicken.
Time.—1-1/2 hour to simmer the chestnuts. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—1.5 hours to simmer the chestnuts. Average cost, 8d.
BENGAL RECIPE FOR MAKING MANGO CHETNEY.
392. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lbs. of moist sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb. of garlic, 1/4 lb. of onions, 3/4 lb. of powdered ginger, 1/4 lb. of dried chilies, 3/4 lb. of mustard-seed, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 2 bottles of best vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples.
392. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lbs. of brown sugar, 0.75 lb. of salt, 0.25 lb. of garlic, 0.25 lb. of onions, 0.75 lb. of powdered ginger, 0.25 lb. of dried chilies, 0.75 lb. of mustard seeds, 0.75 lb. of pitted raisins, 2 bottles of high-quality vinegar, 30 large unripe sour apples.
Mode.—The sugar must be made into syrup; the garlic, onions, and ginger be finely pounded in a mortar; the mustard-seed be washed in cold vinegar, and dried in the sun; the apples be peeled, cored, and sliced, and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar. When all this is done, and the apples are quite cold, put them into a large pan, and gradually mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients, including the remaining half-bottle of vinegar. It must be well stirred until the whole is thoroughly blended, and then put into bottles for use. Tie a piece of wet bladder over the mouths of the bottles, after they are well corked. This chetney is very superior to any which can be bought, and one trial will prove it to be delicious.
Mode.—First, make the sugar into a syrup. Finely grind the garlic, onions, and ginger in a mortar. Wash the mustard seeds in cold vinegar and dry them in the sun. Peel, core, and slice the apples, then boil them in a bottle and a half of vinegar. Once everything is done and the apples have cooled completely, place them in a large pan and gradually mix in all the other ingredients, including the remaining half-bottle of vinegar. Stir well until everything is thoroughly combined, then pour it into bottles. After sealing the bottles with corks, cover the tops with a piece of wet bladder. This chutney is far better than any you can buy, and one taste will show just how delicious it is.
Note.—This recipe was given by a native to an English lady, who had long been a resident in India, and who, since her return to her native country, has become quite celebrated amongst her friends for the excellence of this Eastern relish.
Note.—This recipe was passed on by a local person to an English woman, who had lived in India for a long time, and who, since coming back to her home country, has become quite well-known among her friends for the quality of this Eastern dish.
[Illustration: GARLIC.]
[Illustration: GARLIC.]
GARLIC.—The smell of this plant is generally considered offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in its taste of the whole of the alliaceous tribe. In 1548 it was introduced to England from the shores of the Mediterranean, where it is abundant, and in Sicily it grows naturally. It was in greater repute with our ancestors than it is with ourselves, although it is still used as a seasoning herb. On the continent, especially in Italy, it is much used, and the French consider it an essential in many made dishes.
GARLIC.—The smell of this plant is usually seen as unpleasant, and it has the strongest taste of all the onion family. It was brought to England in 1548 from the Mediterranean, where it is plentiful, and it grows wild in Sicily. Our ancestors valued it more than we do today, although it’s still used as a seasoning herb. In Europe, especially in Italy, it's widely used, and the French regard it as essential in many prepared dishes.
CHILI VINEGAR.
393. INGREDIENTS.—50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar.
393. INGREDIENTS.—50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar.
Mode.—Pound or cut the chilies in half, and infuse them in the vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be found an agreeable relish to fish, as many people cannot eat it without the addition of an acid and cayenne pepper.
Mode.—Crush or slice the chilies in half, and steep them in the vinegar for two weeks, after which it will be ready to use. This will make a tasty addition to fish, as many people can’t enjoy it without some acidity and cayenne pepper.
CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE FOR MEAT OR GAME.
394. INGREDIENTS.-1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ditto of pounded white sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, ditto of salt.
394. INGREDIENTS.-1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoons of Harvey's sauce, 1 dessert spoon of mushroom ketchup, the same amount of powdered white sugar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and the same amount of salt.
Mode.—Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, and heat the sauce gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready. This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep good for a fortnight, and will be found excellent.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients well and heat the sauce slowly by placing the container in a saucepan of boiling water. Avoid boiling it, and serve as soon as it's ready. This sauce, if bottled right away, will stay fresh for two weeks and will be excellent.
CONSOMME, or WHITE STOCK FOR MANY SAUCES.
CONSOMME, or WHITE STOCK FOR MANY SAUCES.
395. Consommé is made precisely in the same manner as stock No. 107, and, for ordinary purposes, will be found quite good enough. When, however, a stronger stock is desired, either put in half the quantity of water, or double that of the meat. This is a very good foundation for all white sauces.
395. Consommé is made the same way as stock No. 107, and for everyday use, it’s perfectly fine. However, if you want a stronger stock, use half the amount of water or double the amount of meat. This is a great base for all white sauces.
CRAB SAUCE FOR FISH (equal to Lobster Sauce).
CRAB SAUCE FOR FISH (same as Lobster Sauce).
396. INGREDIENTS.—1 crab; salt, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste; 1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk (see No. 380).
396. INGREDIENTS.—1 crab; salt, ground mace, and cayenne to taste; 1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk (see No. 380).
Mode.—Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from the shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, put in the fish and seasoning; let it gradually warm through, and simmer for 2 minutes. It should not boil.
Mode.—Select a fresh crab, remove all the meat from the shell, and chop it into small square pieces. Prepare 1/2 pint of melted butter following recipe No. 380, add the crab and seasoning; let it warm gently, and simmer for 2 minutes. It should not reach a boil.
Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Average cost, 1s 2d.
CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH OR WHITE DISHES.
397. INGREDIENTS.—1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, salt and cayenne to taste; when liked, a small quantity of pounded mace or lemon-juice.
397. INGREDIENTS.—1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of flour, salt and cayenne to taste; optionally, a small amount of ground mace or lemon juice.
Mode.—Put the butter in a very clean saucepan, dredge in the flour, and keep shaking round till the butter is melted. Add the seasoning and cream, and stir the whole till it boils; let it just simmer for 5 minutes, when add either pounded mace or lemon-juice to taste, to give it a flavour.
Method.—Place the butter in a clean saucepan, sprinkle in the flour, and keep shaking it around until the butter melts. Add the seasoning and cream, and stir the mixture until it boils; let it simmer for 5 minutes, then add either ground mace or lemon juice to taste for flavor.
Time.—5 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 7d.
Time.—5 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this amount, 7d.
This sauce may be flavoured with very finely-shredded shalot.
This sauce can be flavored with very finely shredded shallot.
CUCUMBER SAUCE.
398. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. of butter, 6 tablespoonfuls of brown gravy.
398. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. of butter, 6 tablespoons of brown gravy.
Mode.—Peel the cucumbers, quarter them, and take out the seeds; cut them into small pieces; put them in a cloth, and rub them well, to take out the water which hangs about them. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the cucumbers, and shake them over a sharp fire until they are of a good colour. Then pour over it the gravy, mix this with the cucumbers, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, when it will be ready to serve.
Mode.—Peel the cucumbers, quarter them, and remove the seeds; cut them into small pieces; place them in a cloth and rub them well to get rid of the excess water. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the cucumbers, and cook them over high heat until they turn a nice color. Then pour the gravy over, mix it with the cucumbers, and let it simmer gently for 10 minutes, at which point it will be ready to serve.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Duration.—Total, 30 minutes.
PICKLED CUCUMBERS.
399. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of bruised ginger; sufficient vinegar to cover the cucumbers.
399. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of crushed ginger; enough vinegar to cover the cucumbers.
Mode.—Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, sprinkle salt over them, and let them remain for 24 hours. The next day, drain them well for 6 hours, put them into a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and keep them in a warm place. In a short time, boil up the vinegar again, add pepper and ginger in the above proportion, and instantly cover them up. Tie them down with bladder, and in a few days they will be fit for use.
Mode.—Slice the cucumbers thickly, sprinkle salt on them, and let them sit for 24 hours. The next day, drain them well for 6 hours, place them in a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and store them in a warm spot. Soon after, bring the vinegar to a boil again, add pepper and ginger in the same proportions, and immediately cover them up. Seal them with bladder, and in a few days, they will be ready to use.
[Illustration: LONG PEPPER.]
[Illustration: Long Pepper.]
LONG PEPPER.—This is the produce of a different plant from that which produces the black, it consisting of the half-ripe flower-heads of what naturalists call Piper longum and chaba. It is the growth, however, of the same countries; indeed, all the spices are the produce of tropical climates only. Originally, the most valuable of these were found in the Spice Islands, or Moluccas, of the Indian Ocean, and were highly prized by the nations of antiquity. The Romans indulged in them to a most extravagant degree. The long pepper is less aromatic than the black, but its oil is more pungent.
LONG PEPPER.—This comes from a different plant than the one that produces black pepper. It consists of the half-ripe flower heads of what scientists call Piper longum and chaba. However, it grows in the same regions; in fact, all spices come exclusively from tropical climates. Originally, the most valuable ones were found in the Spice Islands, or Moluccas, in the Indian Ocean, and were highly valued by ancient cultures. The Romans indulged in them to an extravagant degree. Long pepper is less aromatic than black pepper, but its oil is more intense.
CUCUMBER SAUCE, WHITE.
400. INGREDIENTS.—3 or four cucumbers, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 3 eggs.
400. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 cucumbers, 1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 3 eggs.
Mode.—Cut the cucumbers into small pieces, after peeling them and taking out the seeds. Put them in a stewpan with the white stock and seasoning; simmer gently till the cucumbers are tender, which will be in about 1/4 hour. Then add the yolks of the eggs well beaten; stir them to the sauce, but do not allow it to boil, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Peel the cucumbers, remove the seeds, and cut them into small pieces. Place them in a saucepan with the white stock and seasoning; let them simmer gently until the cucumbers are tender, which should take about 15 minutes. Then add the well-beaten egg yolks; stir them into the sauce, but don't let it boil, and serve very hot.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total: 30 minutes.
CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a very nice Addition to Salads).
CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a great addition to salads).
401. INGREDIENTS.—10 large cucumbers, or 12 smaller ones, 1 quart of vinegar, 2 onions, 2 shalots, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne.
401. INGREDIENTS.—10 large cucumbers, or 12 smaller ones, 1 quart of vinegar, 2 onions, 2 shallots, 1 tablespoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of pepper, 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne.
Mode.—Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar or wide-mouthed bottle, with the vinegar; slice the onions and shalots, and add them, with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor through a piece of muslin, and store it away in small bottles well sealed. This vinegar is a very nice addition to gravies, hashes, &e., as well as a great improvement to salads, or to eat with cold meat.
Mode.—Peel and slice the cucumbers, then place them in a stone jar or a wide-mouthed bottle along with the vinegar. Slice the onions and shallots, and add them along with all the other ingredients to the cucumbers. Let it sit for 4 to 5 days, then boil everything together. Once it cools, strain the liquid through a piece of muslin, and store it in small, well-sealed bottles. This vinegar is a great addition to gravies, hashes, etc., and also enhances salads or pairs well with cold meats.
GERMAN METHOD OF KEEPING CUCUMBERS FOR WINTER USE.
402. INGREDIENTS.—Cucumbers, salt.
402. INGREDIENTS.—Cucumbers, salt.
Mode.—Pare and slice the cucumbers (as for the table), sprinkle well with salt, and let them remain for 24 hours; strain off the liquor, pack in jars, a thick layer of cucumbers and salt alternately; tie down closely, and, when wanted for use, take out the quantity required. Now wash them well in fresh water, and dress as usual with pepper, vinegar, and oil.
Mode.—Peel and slice the cucumbers (as for serving), sprinkle them generously with salt, and let them sit for 24 hours; drain off the liquid, and layer them in jars with thick layers of cucumbers and salt alternately; seal tightly, and when you're ready to use them, take out the amount you need. Now rinse them well in fresh water, and dress as usual with pepper, vinegar, and oil.
[Illustration: THE CUCUMBER.]
[Illustration: THE CUCUMBER.]
THE CUCUMBER.—Though the melon is far superior in point of flavour to this fruit, yet it is allied to the cucumber, which is known to naturalists as Cucumia sativus. The modern Egyptians, as did their forefathers, still eat it, and others of its class. Cucumbers were observed, too, by Bishop Heber, beyond the Ganges, in India; and Burckhardt noticed them in Palestine. (See No. 127.)
THE CUCUMBER.—Although melons taste way better than this fruit, it's related to the cucumber, known to scientists as Cucumia sativus. Modern Egyptians still eat cucumbers and other similar fruits, just like their ancestors did. Bishop Heber noted seeing cucumbers beyond the Ganges in India, and Burckhardt saw them in Palestine. (See No. 127.)
AN EXCELLENT WAY OF PRESERVING CUCUMBERS.
403. INGREDIENTS.—Salt and water; 1 lb. of lump sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ginger, cucumbers.
403. INGREDIENTS.—Salt and water; 1 lb. of granulated sugar, the peel of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ginger, cucumbers.
Mode.—Choose the greenest cucumbers, and those that are most free from seeds; put them in strong salt and water, with a cabbage-leaf to keep them down; tie a paper over them, and put them in a warm place till they are yellow; then wash them and set them over the fire in fresh water, with a very little salt, and another cabbage-leaf over them; cover very closely, but take care they do not boil. If they are not a fine green, change the water again, cover them as before, and make them hot. When they are a good colour, take them off the fire and let them cool; cut them in quarters, take out the seeds and pulp, and put them into cold water. Let them remain for 2 days, changing the water twice each day, to draw out the salt. Put the sugar, with 1/4 pint of water, in a saucepan over the fire; remove the scum as it rises, and add the lemon-peel and ginger with the outside scraped off; when the syrup is tolerably thick, take it off the fire, and when cold, wipe the cucumbers dry, and put them in. Boil the syrup once in 2 or 3 days for 3 weeks; strengthen it if required, and let it be quite cold before the cucumbers are put in. Great attention must be paid to the directions in the commencement of this recipe, as, if these are not properly carried out, the result will be far from satisfactory.
Mode.—Choose the freshest cucumbers that are mostly seedless; soak them in a strong saltwater solution, weighing them down with a cabbage leaf; cover them with paper and place them in a warm spot until they turn yellow; then rinse them and place them over the fire in fresh water with a little salt and another cabbage leaf on top; cover tightly, but make sure they don’t boil. If they aren’t a vibrant green, change the water, cover them again, and heat them up. Once they’re a nice color, remove them from the heat and let them cool; cut them into quarters, scoop out the seeds and pulp, and soak them in cold water. Leave them for 2 days, changing the water twice daily to remove the salt. In a saucepan over the heat, combine the sugar with 1/4 pint of water; skim off any foam that appears, and add lemon peel and ginger, scraped on the outside; when the syrup thickens somewhat, remove it from the heat, and when cold, dry the cucumbers and add them in. Reboil the syrup every 2 or 3 days for 3 weeks; thicken it if needed, and ensure it’s completely cool before adding the cucumbers. It's crucial to follow the initial steps of this recipe carefully, as not doing so will lead to disappointing results.
Seasonable.—This recipe should be used in June, July, or August.
Seasonable.—This recipe should be used in June, July, or August.
[Illustration: SALT-MINE AT NORTHWICH.]
[Illustration: Northwich Salt Mine.]
COMMON SALT.—By this we mean salt used for cooking purposes, which is found in great abundance both on land and in the waters of the ocean. Sea or salt water, as it is often called, contains, it has been discovered, about three per cent, of salt on an average. Solid rocks of salt are also found in various parts of the world, and the county of Chester contains many of these mines, and it is from there that much of our salt comes. Some springs are so highly impregnated with salt, as to have received the name of "brine" springs, and are supposed to have become so by passing through the salt rocks below ground, and thus dissolving a portion of this mineral substance. We here give an engraving of a salt-mine at Northwich, Cheshire, where both salt-mines and brine-springs are exceedingly productive, and are believed to have been wrought so far back as during the occupation of Britain by the Romans.
COMMON SALT.—This refers to the salt used for cooking, which is widely available both on land and in the oceans. Sea water, as it’s often called, typically contains about three percent salt on average. Solid salt deposits can also be found in various locations around the world, with many of these mines located in Cheshire County, from where a significant amount of our salt is sourced. Some springs are so saturated with salt that they are known as "brine" springs, which are believed to have formed by passing through the underground salt rocks, dissolving some of this mineral along the way. Here, we provide an illustration of a salt mine in Northwich, Cheshire, where both salt mines and brine springs are extremely productive and are thought to have been worked since the Roman occupation of Britain.
CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS OR TARTS.
404. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
404. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. of powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon of brandy.
Mode.—Put the milk in a very clean saucepan, and let it boil. Beat the eggs, stir to them the milk and pounded sugar, and put the mixture into a jug. Place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring well until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Serve the sauce in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and grate a little nutmeg over the top. This sauce may be made very much nicer by using cream instead of milk; but the above recipe will be found quite good enough for ordinary purposes.
Mode.—Put the milk in a very clean saucepan and let it boil. Beat the eggs, then mix in the milk and powdered sugar, and pour the mixture into a jug. Place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring well until it thickens, but don’t let it boil, or it will curdle. Serve the sauce in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and grate a little nutmeg on top. This sauce can be made much nicer by using cream instead of milk, but the recipe above will be good enough for everyday use.
Average cost, 6d. per pint.
Average cost, 6d. per pint.
Sufficient, this quantity, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 pudding.
Sufficient, this amount, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 pudding.
DUTCH SAUCE FOR FISH.
405. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1/2 lemon; salt to taste.
405. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 teaspoon of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 tablespoons of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1/2 lemon; salt to taste.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients, except the lemon-juice, into a stew-pan; set it over the fire, and keep continually stirring. When it is sufficiently thick, take it off, as it should not boil. If, however, it happens to curdle, strain the sauce through a tammy, add the lemon-juice, and serve. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain, and, by many, is considered far preferable.
Method.—Combine all the ingredients except the lemon juice in a saucepan; place it over the heat and keep stirring continuously. When it thickens enough, remove it from the heat, as it shouldn’t boil. If it curdles, strain the sauce through a fine sieve, add the lemon juice, and serve. You can use tarragon vinegar instead of regular vinegar, which many people find much better.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6d.
Note.—This sauce may be poured hot over salad, and left to get quite cold, when it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat stiff. Excellent salads may be made of hard eggs, or the remains of salt fish flaked nicely from the bone, by pouring over a little of the above mixture when hot, and allowing it to cool.
Note.—This sauce can be poured hot over salad and left to cool completely, at which point it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat firm. You can make excellent salads using hard-boiled eggs or leftover salt fish, flaked nicely off the bone, by pouring a little of the mixture over them while it’s hot and letting it cool.
[Illustration: THE LEMON.]
[Illustration: THE LEMON.]
THE LEMON.—This fruit is a native of Asia, and is mentioned by Virgil as an antidote to poison. It is hardier than the orange, and, as one of the citron tribe, was brought into Europe by the Arabians. The lemon was first cultivated in England in the beginning of the 17th century, and is now often to be found in our green-houses. The kind commonly sold, however, is imported from Portugal, Spain, and the Azores. Some also come from St. Helena; but those from Spain are esteemed the best. Its juice is now an essential for culinary purposes; but as an antiscorbutic its value is still greater. This juice, which is called citric acid, may be preserved in bottles for a considerable time, by covering it with a thin stratum of oil. Shrub is made from it with rum and sugar.
THE LEMON.—This fruit originates from Asia and is mentioned by Virgil as a remedy for poison. It’s hardier than the orange and, part of the citron family, was brought to Europe by the Arabians. The lemon was first grown in England in the early 17th century and is now often found in our greenhouses. The kind usually sold is imported from Portugal, Spain, and the Azores. Some also come from St. Helena, but the ones from Spain are considered the best. Its juice is now essential for cooking, but its value as an antiscorbutic is even greater. This juice, known as citric acid, can be preserved in bottles for a long time by covering it with a thin layer of oil. Shrub is made from it with rum and sugar.
GREEN DUTCH SAUCE, or HOLLANDAISE VERTE.
GREEN DUTCH SAUCE, or HOLLANDAISE VERTE.
406. INGREDIENTS.—6 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, seasoning to taste of salt and cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, the juice of 1/2 a lemon.
406. INGREDIENTS.—6 tablespoons of Béchamel, No. 367, salt and cayenne to taste, a little chopped fresh parsley for color, the juice of 1/2 a lemon.
Mode.—Put the Béchamel into a saucepan with the seasoning, and bring it to a boil. Make a green colouring by pounding some parsley in a mortar, and squeezing all the juice from it. Let this just simmer, when add it to the sauce. A moment before serving, put in the lemon-juice, but not before; for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow, and its appearance be thus spoiled.
Method.—Put the Béchamel in a saucepan with the seasoning and bring it to a boil. Make a green coloring by crushing some parsley in a mortar and squeezing out all the juice. Let this simmer for a moment, then add it to the sauce. Just before serving, add the lemon juice, but not before; otherwise, the sauce will turn yellow and ruin its appearance.
Average cost, 4d.
Average price, 4d.
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE—This sauce takes its name from a Monsieur Béchamel, a rich French financier, who, according to Borne authorities, invented it; whilst others affirm he only patronized it. Be this as it may, it is one of the most pleasant sauces which come to table, and should be most carefully and intelligently prepared. It is frequently used, as in the above recipe, as a principal ingredient and basis for other sauces.
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE—This sauce is named after a Monsieur Béchamel, a wealthy French financier, who, according to some sources, created it; while others argue he merely supported it. Regardless, it is one of the most delightful sauces presented at the table and should be prepared with great care and skill. It is often used, as in the recipe above, as a main ingredient and foundation for other sauces.
TO PICKLE EGGS.
407. INGREDIENTS.—16 eggs, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/2 oz. of Black pepper, 1/2 oz. of Jamaica pepper, 1/2 oz. of ginger.
407. INGREDIENTS.—16 eggs, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/2 oz. of black pepper, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1/2 oz. of ginger.
Mode.—Boil the eggs for 12 minutes, then dip them into cold water, and take off the shells. Put the vinegar, with the pepper and ginger, into a stewpan, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the eggs in a jar, pour over them the vinegar, &c., boiling hot, and, when cold, tie them down with bladder to exclude the air. This pickle will be ready for use in a month.
Method.—Boil the eggs for 12 minutes, then plunge them into cold water and remove the shells. Put the vinegar, along with the pepper and ginger, into a saucepan and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the eggs in a jar, pour the hot vinegar mixture over them, and, once it cools, seal the jar with a bladder to keep out the air. This pickle will be ready to use in a month.
Average cost, for this quantity, 1s. 9d.
Average cost, for this quantity, £0.09.
Seasonable.—This should be made about Easter, as at this time eggs are plentiful and cheap. A store of pickled eggs will be found very useful and ornamental in serving with many first and second course dishes.
Seasonable.—This should be made around Easter when eggs are plentiful and inexpensive. A supply of pickled eggs can be quite useful and attractive when served with various first and second course dishes.
[Illustration: GINGER.]
[Illustration: GINGER.]
The ginger-plant, known to naturalists as Zingiber officinale, is a native, of the East and West Indies. It grows somewhat like the lily of the valley, but its height is about three feet. In Jamaica it flowers about August or September, fading about the end of the year. The fleshy creeping roots, which form the ginger of commerce, are in a proper state to be dug when the stalks are entirely withered. This operation is usually performed in January and February; and when the roots are taken out of the earth, each one is picked, scraped, separately washed, and afterwards very carefully dried. Ginger is generally considered as less pungent and heating to the system than might he expected from its effects on the organs of taste, and it is frequently used, with considerable effect, as an anti-spasmodic and carminative.
The ginger plant, known to botanists as Zingiber officinale, is native to the East and West Indies. It grows somewhat like lily of the valley but reaches a height of about three feet. In Jamaica, it blooms around August or September and fades by the end of the year. The fleshy, creeping roots that produce the ginger we use commercially are ready to be harvested when the stalks have completely withered. This process typically happens in January and February; once the roots are pulled from the ground, each one is picked, scraped, washed individually, and then carefully dried. Ginger is often thought to be less pungent and less heating to the body than one might expect from its taste, and it's commonly used effectively as an anti-spasmodic and digestive aid.
EGG BALLS FOR SOUPS AND MADE DISHES.
408. INGREDIENTS.—8 eggs, a little flour; seasoning to taste of salt.
408. INGREDIENTS.—8 eggs, a bit of flour; season with salt to taste.
Mode.—Boil 6 eggs for 20 minutes, strip off the shells, take the yolks and pound them in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the other 2 eggs; add them, with a little flour and salt, to those pounded; mix all well together, and roll into balls. Boil them before they are put into the soup or other dish they may be intended for.
Mode.—Boil 6 eggs for 20 minutes, remove the shells, take the yolks and mash them in a bowl. Beat the yolks of the other 2 eggs; add them, along with a little flour and salt, to the mashed yolks; mix everything together well and form into balls. Boil them before adding to the soup or whichever dish you plan to use them in.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, for this quantity, 8d.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, for this quantity, 8p.
Sufficient, 2 dozen balls for 1 tureen of soup.
Enough, 24 balls for 1 bowl of soup.
EGG SAUCE FOR SALT FISH.
409. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; when liked, a very little lemon-juice.
409. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; if desired, a small amount of lemon juice.
Mode.—Boil the eggs until quite hard, which will be in about 20 minutes, and put them into cold water for 1/2 hour. Strip off the shells, chop the eggs into small pieces, not, however, too fine. Make the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376, and, when boiling, stir in the eggs, and serve very hot. Lemon-juice may be added at pleasure.
Mode.—Boil the eggs until they are fully hard, which will take about 20 minutes, then place them in cold water for 30 minutes. Peel the shells, chop the eggs into small pieces, but not too finely. Prepare the melted butter smoothly, following recipe No. 376, and when it's boiling, stir in the eggs and serve hot. You can add lemon juice if you like.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, 8 pence.
Sufficient.—This quantity for 3 or 4 lbs. of fish.
Sufficient.—This amount is for 3 or 4 lbs. of fish.
Note.—When a thicker sauce is required, use one or two more eggs to the same quantity of melted butter.
Note.—If you need a thicker sauce, add one or two more eggs to the same amount of melted butter.
EPICUREAN SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, GRAVIES, OR FISH.
410. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of walnut ketchup, 1/4 pint of mushroom ditto, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine; 1/4 oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. of shalots, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 3/4 pint of vinegar.
410. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of walnut ketchup, 1/4 pint of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoons of Indian soy, 2 tablespoons of port wine; 1/4 oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. of shallots, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 3/4 pint of vinegar.
Mode.—Put the whole of the ingredients into a bottle, and let it remain for a fortnight in a warm place, occasionally shaking up the contents. Strain, and bottle off for use. This sauce will be found an agreeable addition to gravies, hashes, stews, &c.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a bottle and leave it in a warm spot for two weeks, shaking it occasionally. Strain the mixture and transfer it to a bottle for future use. This sauce is a great complement to gravies, hashes, stews, etc.
Average cost, for this quantity, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, for this quantity, £0.075.
[Illustration: SHALOT.]
[Illustration: SHALOT.]
SHALOT, OR ESCHALOT.—This plant is supposed to have been introduced to England by the Crusaders, who found it growing wild in the vicinity of Ascalon. It is a bulbous root, and when full grown, its leaves wither in July. They ought to be taken up in the autumn, and when dried in the house, will keep till spring. It is called by old authors the "barren onion," and is used in sauces and pickles, soups and made dishes, and as an accompaniment to chops and steaks.
SHALOT, OR ESCHALOT.—This plant is believed to have been brought to England by the Crusaders, who found it growing wild near Ascalon. It has a bulbous root, and when fully grown, its leaves die back in July. They should be harvested in the fall, and when dried indoors, can be stored until spring. Older sources refer to it as the "barren onion," and it is used in sauces and pickles, soups, cooked dishes, and as a side for chops and steaks.
ESPAGNOLE, OR BROWN SPANISH SAUCE.
411. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. of veal, 1-1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 or 3 sprigs of savoury herbs, 6 green onions, 3 shalots, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, thickening of butter and flour.
411. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. of veal, 1-1/2 pints of white stock, No. 107; 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1/2 a bay leaf, 2 or 3 sprigs of savory herbs, 6 green onions, 3 shallots, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, and a thickening of butter and flour.
Mode.—Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, and put them into a stewpan. Moisten these with 1/2 pint of the stock No. 107, and simmer till the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a nicely-coloured glaze, when put in a few more spoonfuls to detach it. Add the remainder of the stock, with the spices, herbs, shalots, and onions, and simmer very gently for 1 hour. Strain and skim off every particle of fat, and when required for use, thicken with butter and flour, or with a little roux. Add the wine, and, if necessary, a seasoning of cayenne; when it will be ready to serve.
Mode.—Cut the ham and veal into small square pieces and place them in a saucepan. Moisten with 1/2 pint of stock No. 107 and simmer until the bottom of the saucepan is covered with a nicely-colored glaze; then add a few more spoonfuls to help detach it. Add the rest of the stock along with the spices, herbs, shallots, and onions, and let it simmer very gently for 1 hour. Strain and remove every bit of fat, and when you're ready to use it, thicken with butter and flour, or with a bit of roux. Add the wine and, if needed, a pinch of cayenne for seasoning; then it will be ready to serve.
Time.—1-1/2 hour.
Duration.—1.5 hours.
Average cost, 2s. per pint.
Average cost, £0.10 per pint.
Note.—The wine in this sauce may be omitted, and an onion sliced and fried of a nice brown substituted for it. This sauce or gravy is used for many dishes, and with most people is a general favourite.
Note.—You can skip the wine in this sauce and replace it with a nicely browned sliced onion. This sauce or gravy is used for many dishes and is a favorite for most people.
FENNEL SAUCE FOR MACKEREL.
412. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, rather more than 1 tablespoonful of chopped fennel.
412. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376, just a little over 1 tablespoon of chopped fennel.
Mode.—Make the melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376; chop the fennel rather small, carefully cleansing it from any grit or dirt, and put it to the butter when this is on the point of boiling. Simmer for a minute or two, and serve in a tureen.
Mode.—Melt the butter until it's very smooth, using recipe No. 376; chop the fennel into small pieces, making sure to clean it thoroughly to remove any grit or dirt, and add it to the butter just as it begins to boil. Let it simmer for a minute or two, and then serve it in a tureen.
Time.—2 minutes.
Time.—2 min.
Average cost, 4d.
Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient to serve with 5 or 6 mackerel.
Enough to serve with 5 or 6 mackerel.
[Illustration: FENNEL.]
[Illustration: FENNEL.]
FENNEL.—This elegantly-growing plant, of which the Latin name is Anethum foeniculum, grows best in chalky soils, where, indeed, it is often found wild. It is very generally cultivated in gardens, and has much improved on its original form. Various dishes are frequently ornamented and garnished with its graceful leaves, and these are sometimes boiled in soups, although it is more usually confined, in English cookery, to the mackerel sauce as here given.
FENNEL.—This elegantly growing plant, known scientifically as Anethum foeniculum, thrives best in chalky soils, where it is often seen growing wild. It is widely cultivated in gardens, and its original form has significantly improved over time. Many dishes are often decorated and garnished with its beautiful leaves, and these leaves are occasionally boiled in soups, although in English cooking, they are more commonly used in the mackerel sauce provided here.
FISH SAUCE.
413. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, a few shreds of garlic and shalot, 1 quart of vinegar.
413. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 oz. of cayenne, 2 tablespoons of walnut ketchup, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, a few pieces of garlic and shallot, 1 quart of vinegar.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake well every day for a fortnight. Keep it in small bottles well sealed, and in a few days it will be fit for use.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a large bottle and shake it well every day for two weeks. Store it in small, tightly sealed bottles, and after a few days, it will be ready to use.
Average cost, for this quantity, 1s.
Average cost, for this quantity, £1.
FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH SOUPS.
414. INGREDIENTS.—1 middling-sized lobster, 1/2 an anchovy, 1 head of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste; 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs.
414. INGREDIENTS.—1 medium-sized lobster, 1/2 an anchovy, 1 head of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; salt, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 4 tablespoons of bread crumbs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs.
Mode.—Pick the meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, with the soft parts, in a mortar; add the celery, the yolk of the hard-boiled egg, seasoning, and bread crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole is nicely amalgamated. Warm the butter till it is in a liquid state; well whisk the eggs, and work these up with the pounded lobster-meat. Make into balls of about an inch in diameter, and fry of a nice pale brown.
Mode.—Remove the meat from the lobster shell, and pound it, along with the tender parts, in a bowl; add the celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, seasoning, and bread crumbs. Keep pounding until everything is nicely mixed together. Heat the butter until it’s melted; whisk the eggs well, and combine them with the pounded lobster meat. Form into balls about an inch in diameter, and fry until they are a light golden brown.
Sufficient, from 18 to 20 balls for 1 tureen of soup.
Enough, from 18 to 20 balls for 1 bowl of soup.
FORCEMEAT FOR COLD SAVOURY PIES.
415. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon; salt, cayenne, pepper, and pounded mace to taste; a very little nutmeg, the same of chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.
415. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fatty bacon; salt, cayenne, pepper, and ground mace to taste; just a bit of nutmeg, the same amount of chopped lemon peel, 1/2 teaspoon of chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoon of minced savory herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.
Mode.—Chop the veal and bacon together, and put them in a mortar with the other ingredients mentioned above. Pound well, and bind with 1 or 2 eggs which have been previously beaten and strained. Work the whole well together, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. If the pie is not to be eaten immediately, omit the herbs and parsley, as these would prevent it from keeping. Mushrooms or truffles may be added.
Mode.—Chop the veal and bacon together, then place them in a bowl with the other ingredients listed above. Mash well, and mix in 1 or 2 eggs that have been beaten and strained. Combine everything thoroughly, and the stuffing will be ready to use. If the pie won't be eaten right away, leave out the herbs and parsley, as they can affect its preservation. You can also add mushrooms or truffles.
Sufficient for 2 small pies.
Enough for 2 small pies.
[Illustration: MARJORAM.]
[Illustration: MARJORAM.]
MARJORAM.—Although there are several species of marjoram, that which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram, is the one usually preferred in cookery. It is a native of Portugal, and when its leaves are used as a seasoning herb, they have an agreeable aromatic flavour. The winter sweet marjoram used for the same purposes, is a native of Greece, and the pot-marjoram is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are favourite ingredients in soups, stuffings, &c.
MARJORAM. — There are several types of marjoram, but sweet or knotted marjoram is the most commonly used in cooking. It comes from Portugal, and its leaves add a pleasant aromatic flavor when used as a seasoning herb. The winter sweet marjoram, which serves the same purpose, is native to Greece, while pot-marjoram is another variety that originates from Sicily. All of these are popular ingredients in soups, stuffings, etc.
FORCEMEAT FOR PIKE, CARP, HADDOCK, AND VARIOUS KINDS OF FISH.
416. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of suet, 1 oz. of fat bacon, 1 small teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, including parsley; a little onion, when liked, shredded very fine; salt, nutmeg, and cayenne to taste; 4 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 egg.
416. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of suet, 1 oz. of fatty bacon, 1 small teaspoon of minced savory herbs, including parsley; a little finely shredded onion, if desired; salt, nutmeg, and cayenne to taste; 4 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 egg.
Mode.—Mix all the ingredients well together, carefully mincing them very finely; beat up the egg, moisten with it, and work the whole very smoothly together. Oysters or anchovies may be added to this forcemeat, and will be found a great improvement.
Method.—Mix all the ingredients together thoroughly, chopping them very finely; beat the egg, moisten the mixture with it, and combine everything until it's very smooth. You can add oysters or anchovies to this mixture, which will make it taste even better.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized haddock or pike.
Sufficient for a medium-sized haddock or pike.
FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEYS, FOWLS, HARE, &c.
FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEY, CHICKEN, HARE, ETC.
417. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of ham or lean bacon, 1/4 lb. of suet, the rind of half a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced sweet herbs; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste; 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs.
417. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of ham or lean bacon, 1/4 lb. of suet, the rind of half a lemon, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley, 1 teaspoon of minced sweet herbs; salt, cayenne, and ground mace to taste; 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs.
Mode.—Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon-peel, and herbs, taking particular care that all be very finely minced; add a seasoning to taste, of salt, cayenne, and mace, and blend all thoroughly together with the bread crumbs, before wetting. Now beat and strain the eggs, work these up with the other ingredients, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. When it is made into balls, fry of a nice brown, in boiling lard, or put them on a tin and bake for 1/2 hour in a moderate oven. As we have stated before, no one flavour should predominate greatly, and the forcemeat should be of sufficient body to cut with a knife, and yet not dry and heavy. For very delicate forcemeat, it is advisable to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg; but for ordinary cooking, mincing very finely answers the purpose.
Mode.—Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon peel, and herbs, making sure everything is very finely minced; add seasoning to taste with salt, cayenne, and mace, and mix everything thoroughly with the bread crumbs before moistening. Now beat and strain the eggs, incorporate these with the other ingredients, and the forcemeat will be ready to use. When formed into balls, fry them to a nice brown in hot lard, or place them on a baking tray and bake for 30 minutes in a moderate oven. As mentioned earlier, no single flavor should dominate, and the forcemeat should have enough substance to be sliced with a knife, yet should not be dry or heavy. For a very delicate forcemeat, it's best to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg; however, for regular cooking, finely mincing is sufficient.
Average cost, 8d.
Average price, 8d.
Sufficient for a turkey, a moderate-sized fillet of veal, or a hare.
Sufficient for a turkey, a medium-sized fillet of veal, or a hare.
Note.—In forcemeat for HARE, the liver of the animal is sometimes added. Boil for 5 minutes, mince it very small, and mix it with the other ingredients. If it should be in an unsound state, it must be on no account made use of.
Note.—In forcemeat for HARE, it's sometimes common to add the animal's liver. Boil it for 5 minutes, chop it very finely, and mix it with the other ingredients. If it is in poor condition, it must not be used under any circumstances.
[Illustration: BASIL.]
[Illustration: BASIL.]
SWEET HERBS.—Those most usually employed for purposes of cooking, such as the flavouring of soups, sauces, forcemeats, &c., are thyme, sage, mint, marjoram, savory, and basil. Other sweet herbs are cultivated for purposes of medicine and perfumery: they are most grateful both to the organs of taste and smelling; and to the aroma derived from them is due, in a great measure, the sweet and exhilarating fragrance of our "flowery meads." In town, sweet herbs have to be procured at the greengrocers' or herbalists', whilst, in the country, the garden should furnish all that are wanted, the cook taking great care to have some dried in the autumn for her use throughout the winter months.
SWEET HERBS.—The ones most commonly used in cooking, like flavoring soups, sauces, and meat mixtures, are thyme, sage, mint, marjoram, savory, and basil. Other sweet herbs are grown for medicinal and perfumery purposes; they are enjoyable for both taste and smell. The pleasant aroma they provide contributes significantly to the delightful scent of our "flowery meads." In the city, sweet herbs need to be bought from greengrocers or herbal shops, while in the countryside, the garden should supply everything needed, with the cook carefully drying some in the fall to last through the winter months.
FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED PIKE.
418. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2 oz. of suet; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste; 6 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.
418. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon of chopped savory herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these can be left out), 2 oz. of suet; salt, pepper, and ground mace to taste; 6 tablespoons of cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other ingredients by recipe No. 416, and blend the whole thoroughly together. Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir it over the fire till it thickens, when put it into the fish, which should have previously been cut open, and sew it up.
Method.—Chop and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other ingredients according to recipe No. 416, and blend everything well. Moisten with the cream and eggs, place it all in a saucepan, and stir it over the heat until it thickens. Then, stuff this mixture into the fish, which should have been cut open beforehand, and sew it up.
Time.—4 or 6 minutes to thicken.
Time.—4 to 6 minutes to thicken.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10 pence.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized pike.
Enough for a mid-sized pike.
FRENCH FORCEMEAT.
419. It will be well to state, in the beginning of this recipe, that French forcemeat, or quenelles, consist of the blending of three separate processes; namely, panada, udder, and whatever meat you intend using.
419. It’s important to note at the start of this recipe that French forcemeat, or quenelles, is made by blending three different processes: panada, udder, and the type of meat you plan to use.
PANADA.
420. INGREDIENTS.—The crumb of 2 penny rolls, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, No. 107, 1 oz. of butter, 1 slice of ham, 1 bay-leaf, a little minced parsley, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a few mushrooms (when obtainable), butter, the yolks of 2 eggs.
420. INGREDIENTS.—The crumbs from 2 small rolls, 4 tablespoons of white stock, No. 107, 1 oz. of butter, 1 slice of ham, 1 bay leaf, a little chopped parsley, 2 shallots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a few mushrooms (when available), butter, and the yolks of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Soak the crumb of the rolls in milk for about 1/2 hour, then take it out, and squeeze so as to press the milk from it; put the soaked bread into a stewpan with the above quantity of white stock, and set it on one side; then put into a separate stewpan 1 oz. of butter, a slice of lean ham cut small, with a bay-leaf, herbs, mushrooms, spices, &c., in the above proportions, and fry them gently over a slow fire. When done, moisten with 2 teacupfuls of white stock, boil for 20 minutes, and strain the whole through a sieve over the panada in the other stewpan. Place it over the fire, keep constantly stirring, to prevent its burning, and when quite dry, put in a small piece of butter. Let this again dry up by stirring over the fire; then add the yolks of 2 eggs, mix well, put the panada to cool on a clean plate, and use it when required. Panada should always be well flavoured, as the forcemeat receives no taste from any of the other ingredients used in its preparation.
Method.—Soak the bread crumb from the rolls in milk for about 30 minutes, then take it out and squeeze to remove the milk. Put the soaked bread into a saucepan with the specified amount of white stock and set aside. In a separate saucepan, add 1 oz. of butter, a small slice of lean ham, a bay leaf, herbs, mushrooms, spices, etc., in the specified amounts, and sauté them gently on low heat. Once cooked, add 2 teacupfuls of white stock, boil for 20 minutes, and strain everything through a sieve over the panada in the other saucepan. Place it over the heat, stirring constantly to avoid burning, and when it’s dry, add a small piece of butter. Stir over the heat until it dries again; then add the yolks of 2 eggs, mix well, and let the panada cool on a clean plate until needed. Panada should always be well-flavored since the forcemeat won’t gain flavor from the other ingredients used to prepare it.
Boiled Calf's Udder for French Forcemeats.
Boiled Calf's Udder for French Forcemeats.
421. Put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; let it stew gently till quite done, when take it out to cool. Trim all the upper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound well in a mortar, till it can be rubbed through a sieve. That portion which passes through the strainer is one of the three ingredients of which French forcemeats are generally composed; but many cooks substitute butter for this, being a less troublesome and more expeditious mode of preparation.
421. Put the udder in a pot with enough water to cover it; let it simmer gently until it's fully cooked. Then take it out to cool. Trim off the upper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound it well in a mortar until it can be strained through a sieve. The portion that passes through the strainer is one of the three main ingredients commonly used in French forcemeats; however, many cooks use butter instead, as it's easier and quicker to prepare.
[Illustration: PESTLE AND MORTAR.]
[Illustration: Mortar and pestle.]
PESTLE AND MORTAR.—No cookery can be perfectly performed without the aid of the useful instruments shown in the engraving. For pounding things sufficiently fine, they are invaluable, and the use of them will save a good deal of time, besides increasing the excellence of the preparations. They are made of iron, and, in that material, can be bought cheap; but as these are not available, for all purposes, we should recommend, as more economical in the end, those made of Wedgwood, although these are considerably more expensive than the former.
PESTLE AND MORTAR.—No cooking can be done perfectly without the helpful tools shown in the picture. They are incredibly useful for grinding things fine, and using them will save a lot of time while improving the quality of your dishes. They are made of iron, which is inexpensive; however, for certain uses, we suggest that those made of Wedgwood, while pricier, are more economical in the long run.
Veal Quenelles.
Veal Dumplings.
422. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of veal, panada (No. 420), and calf's udder (No. 421), 2 eggs; seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, or grated nutmeg; a little flour.
422. INGREDIENTS.—Equal amounts of veal, panada (No. 420), and calf's udder (No. 421), 2 eggs; season with pepper, salt, and ground mace or grated nutmeg to taste; a little flour.
Mode.—Take the fleshy part of veal, scrape it with a knife, till all the meat is separated from the sinews, and allow about 1/2 lb. for an entrée. Chop the meat, and pound it in a mortar till reduced to a paste; then roll it into a ball; make another of panada (No. 420), the same size, and another of udder (No. 421), taking care that these three balls be of the same size. It is to be remembered, that equality of size, and not of weight, is here necessary. When the three ingredients are properly prepared, pound them altogether in a mortar for some time; for the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten with the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding, adding a seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended together, mould it into balls, or whatever shape is intended, roll them in flour, and poach in boiling water, to which a little salt should have been added. If the quenelles are not firm enough, add the yolk of another egg, but omit the white, which only makes them hollow and puffy inside. In the preparation of this recipe, it would be well to bear in mind that the ingredients are to be well pounded and seasoned, and must be made hard or soft according to the dishes they are intended for. For brown or white ragoûts they should be firm, and when the quenelles are used very small, extreme delicacy will be necessary in their preparation. Their flavour may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant, grouse, or an extra quantity of mushroom, parsley, &c.
Mode.—Take the meaty part of veal and scrape it with a knife until all the meat is separated from the sinews, setting aside about 1/2 lb. for an entrée. Chop the meat and pound it in a mortar until it turns into a paste; then roll it into a ball. Make another ball using panada (No. 420) of the same size, and another from udder (No. 421), ensuring these three balls are of the same size. Remember, it's the size that matters here, not the weight. Once the three ingredients are properly prepared, pound them all together in a mortar for some time; the more you pound the quenelles, the more delicate they become. Now moisten with the eggs, both whites and yolks, and keep pounding while adding seasoning like pepper and spices. Once everything is well mixed, shape it into balls or any desired shape, roll them in flour, and poach them in boiling water, to which a little salt should have been added. If the quenelles aren’t firm enough, add another egg yolk but skip the white, as it makes them hollow and puffy inside. Keep in mind that the ingredients should be well pounded and seasoned, and you need to adjust their firmness based on the dishes they are meant for. For brown or white ragoûts, they should be firm, and if the quenelles are very small, extreme delicacy is necessary in their preparation. You can vary the flavor by using flesh from rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant, grouse, or by adding extra mushrooms, parsley, etc.
Time,—About 1/4 hour to poach in boiling water.
Time—About 15 minutes to poach in boiling water.
Sufficient, 1/2 lb. of veal or other meat, with other ingredients in proportion, for 1 entrée.
Sufficient, 1/2 lb. of veal or other meat, along with other ingredients in the right amounts, for 1 entrée.
Note.—The French are noted for their skill in making forcemeats; one of the principal causes of their superiority in this respect being, that they pound all the ingredients so diligently and thoroughly. Any one with the slightest pretensions to refined cookery, must, in this particular, implicitly follow the example of our friends across the Channel.
Note.—The French are known for their expertise in making forcemeats, and one of the main reasons for their superiority in this area is that they pound all the ingredients so diligently and thoroughly. Anyone who aspires to refined cooking must, in this regard, wholeheartedly follow the example of our friends across the Channel.
FORCEMEAT, or QUENELLES, FOR TURTLE SOUP.
FORCEMEAT, or QUENELLES, FOR TURTLE SOUP.
(See No. 189.)
(See No. 189.)
423. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCEMEATS.—Take a pound and a half of lean veal from the fillet, and cut it in long thin slices; scrape with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains; put it in a mortar, pound it 10 minutes, or until in a purée; pass it through a wire sieve (use the remainder in stock); then take 1 pound of good fresh beef suet, which skin, shred, and chop very fine; put it in a mortar and pound it; then add 6 oz. of panada (that is, bread soaked in milk and boiled till nearly dry) with the suet; pound them well together, and add the veal; season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half that of nutmeg; work all well together; then add four eggs by degrees, continually pounding the contents of the mortar. When well mixed, take a small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water; and if it is delicate, firm, and of a good flavour, it is ready for use.
423. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCEMEATS.—Take a pound and a half of lean veal from the fillet and cut it into long, thin slices. Scrape with a knife until only the fiber remains; put it in a mortar and pound it for 10 minutes, or until it becomes a purée. Pass it through a wire sieve (use the leftover for stock); then take 1 pound of good fresh beef suet, remove the skin, and chop it very finely. Put it in a mortar and pound it; then add 6 oz. of panada (that is, bread soaked in milk and boiled until nearly dry) with the suet. Pound them well together and add the veal; season with a teaspoon of salt, a quarter teaspoon of pepper, and half of that amount of nutmeg; mix everything well. Then add four eggs gradually, continually pounding the contents of the mortar. Once well mixed, take a small spoonful and poach it in some boiling water; if it is delicate, firm, and flavorful, it’s ready to use.
FRIED BREAD CRUMBS.
424. Cut the bread into thin slices, place them in a cool oven overnight, and when thoroughly dry and crisp, roll them down into fine crumbs. Put some lard, or clarified dripping, into a frying-pan; bring it to the boiling-point, throw in the crumbs, and fry them very quickly. Directly they are done, lift them out with a slice, and drain them before the fire from all greasy moisture. When quite crisp, they are ready for use. The fat they are fried in should be clear, and the crumbs should not have the slightest appearance or taste of having been, in the least degree, burnt.
424. Cut the bread into thin slices and place them in a cool oven overnight. When they’re completely dry and crispy, break them down into fine crumbs. Heat some lard or clarified fat in a frying pan until it’s boiling, then toss in the crumbs and fry them quickly. Once they’re done, use a slotted spoon to lift them out and let them drain in front of the fire to get rid of any greasy moisture. When they’re thoroughly crisp, they’re ready to use. The fat should be clear, and the crumbs should not have any hint of burning or a burnt taste.
FRIED SIPPETS OF BREAD (for Garnishing many Dishes).
FRIED BREAD CRUMBS (for Garnishing many Dishes).
425. Cut the bread into thin slices, and stamp them out in whatever shape you like,—rings, crosses, diamonds, &c. &c. Fry them in the same manner as the bread crumbs, in clear boiling lard, or clarified dripping, and drain them until thoroughly crisp before the fire. When variety is desired, fry some of a pale colour, and others of a darker hue.
425. Slice the bread thinly and cut them into whatever shapes you want—rings, crosses, diamonds, etc. Fry them just like the bread crumbs, in hot boiling lard or clarified fat, and drain them until they are completely crispy over the fire. When you want some variety, fry some to a light color and others to a darker shade.
FRIED BREAD FOR BORDERS.
426. Proceed as above, by frying some slices of bread cut in any fanciful shape. When quite crisp, dip one side of the sippet into the beaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour, and place it on the edge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the border is completed, arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternately.
426. Follow the steps above by frying some slices of bread cut into any fun shape. Once they are nice and crispy, dip one side of each piece into the beaten egg white mixed with a little flour, and place it on the edge of the dish. Keep going like this until the border is done, alternating between light and dark pieces.
GENEVESE SAUCE FOR SALMON, TROUT, &c.
GENEVESE SAUCE FOR SALMON, TROUT, &c.
427. INGREDIENTS.—1 small carrot, a small faggot of sweet herbs, including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), 1 bay-leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry, 1-1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, the juice of half a lemon.
427. INGREDIENTS.—1 small carrot, a small bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when available), 1 bay leaf, 6 cloves, 1 piece of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry, 1-1/2 pints of white stock, No. 107, a thickening made of butter and flour, the juice of half a lemon.
Mode.—Cut up the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them into a stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace; add the butter, and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire until the onion is quite tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and stew slowly for 1 hour, when strain it off into a clean saucepan. Now make a thickening of butter and flour, put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth and mellow, add the lemon-juice, give one boil, when it will be ready for table.
Mode.—Chop the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them in a saucepan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay leaf, cloves, and mace; add the butter, and gently simmer everything over low heat until the onion is very tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and let it stew slowly for 1 hour, then strain it into a clean saucepan. Now make a thickening with butter and flour, add it to the sauce, and stir it over the heat until it’s perfectly smooth and creamy, then add the lemon juice, bring it to a boil, and it will be ready to serve.
Time.—Altogether 2 hours.
Duration: 2 hours total.
Average cost, 1s. 3d per pint.
Average cost, £0.06 per pint.
Sufficient, half this quantity for two slices of salmon.
Sufficient, half this amount for two slices of salmon.
[Illustration: SAGE.]
[Illustration: SAGE.]
SAGE.—This was originally a native of the south of Europe, but it has long been cultivated in the English garden. There are several kinds of it, known as the green, the red, the small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. In cookery, its principal use is for stuffings and sauces, for which purpose the red is the most agreeable, and the green the next. The others are used for medical purposes.
SAGE.—This originally came from southern Europe, but it has been grown in English gardens for a long time. There are several varieties, known as green, red, small-leaved, and broad-leaved balsamic. In cooking, it’s mainly used for stuffings and sauces, with red being the most pleasant and green coming in second. The other varieties are used for medicinal purposes.
PICKLED GHERKINS.
428. INGREDIENTS.—Salt and water, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of whole allspice, 4 cloves, 2 blades of mace, a little horseradish. This proportion of pepper, spices, &c., for 1 quart of vinegar.
428. INGREDIENTS.—Salt and water, 1 oz. of crushed ginger, 1/2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of whole allspice, 4 cloves, 2 blades of mace, a little horseradish. This amount of pepper and spices is for 1 quart of vinegar.
Mode.—Let the gherkins remain in salt and water for 3 or 4 days, when take them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put them into a stone jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, with spices and pepper, &c., in the above proportion, for 10 minutes; pour it, quite boiling, over the gherkins, cover the jar with vine-leaves, and put over them a plate, setting them near the fire, where they must remain all night. Next day drain off the vinegar, boil it up again, and pour it hot over them. Cover up with fresh leaves, and let the whole remain till quite cold. Now tie down closely with bladder to exclude the air, and in a month or two, they will be fit for use.
Mode.—Let the gherkins soak in salt and water for 3 or 4 days, then take them out, dry them completely, and place them in a stone jar. Boil enough vinegar to cover them, along with spices and pepper, etc., for 10 minutes; pour it over the gherkins while it's still boiling, cover the jar with vine leaves, and place a plate on top, setting it near the fire where it should stay all night. The next day, drain the vinegar, boil it again, and pour it hot over the gherkins. Cover again with fresh leaves and let everything cool down completely. Now seal it tightly with a bladder to keep out the air, and in a month or two, they will be ready to use.
Time.—4 days.
Duration.—4 days.
Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of August.
In season from mid-July to the end of August.
[Illustration: GHERKINS.]
[Illustration: PICKLES.]
GHERKINS.—Gherkins are young cucumbers; and the only way in which they are used for cooking purposes is pickling them, as by the recipe here given. Not having arrived at maturity, they have not, of course, so strongly a developed flavour as cucumbers, and, as a pickle, they are very general favourites.
GHERKINS.—Gherkins are young cucumbers, and the only way they’re used for cooking is by pickling them, according to the recipe provided here. Since they haven't fully matured, they don't have as strong a flavor as cucumbers, but as a pickle, they’re very popular.
GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR BOILED MACKEREL.
429. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367 (veal gravy may be substituted for this), 2 oz. of fresh butter; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg.
429. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoons of Béchamel, No. 367 (you can use veal gravy instead), 2 oz. of fresh butter; seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender; strain them, and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan the Béchamel or gravy, with the butter and seasoning; add the pulp from the gooseberries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit.
Mode.—Boil the gooseberries in water until they’re really soft; strain them, and push them through a sieve. In a saucepan, combine the Béchamel or gravy with the butter and seasoning; add the gooseberry pulp, mix everything together, and heat it slowly. Many people think that adding a bit of powdered sugar improves this sauce since the sweetness balances out the sharp acidity of the unripe fruit.
Time.—Boil the gooseberries from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
Time.—Boil the gooseberries for 20 minutes to 30 minutes.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a large dish of mackerel.
Enough, this amount, for a big serving of mackerel.
Seasonable from May to July.
Seasonal from May to July.
[Illustration: THE GOOSEBERRY.]
[Illustration: THE GOOSEBERRY.]
THE GOOSEBERRY.—This useful and wholesome fruit (Ribes grossularia) is thought to be indigenous to the British Isles, and may be occasionally found in a wild state in some of the eastern counties, although, when uncultivated, it is but a very small and inferior berry. The high state of perfection to which it has been here brought, is due to the skill of the English gardeners; for in no other country does it attain the same size and flavour. The humidity of the British climate, however, has doubtless something to do with the result; and it is said that gooseberries produced in Scotland as far north as Inverness, are of a very superior character. Malic and citric acid blended with sugar, produce the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry; and upon the proper development of these properties depends the success of all cooking operations with which they are connected.
THE GOOSEBERRY.—This useful and healthy fruit (Ribes grossularia) is believed to be native to the British Isles, and it can sometimes be found growing wild in parts of the eastern counties, although uncultivated ones tend to be small and of poor quality. The remarkable quality it has reached here is thanks to the expertise of English gardeners; no other country grows them to the same size and flavor. The moist British climate likely plays a significant role in this, and it’s said that gooseberries grown in Scotland, as far north as Inverness, are especially outstanding. The pleasant flavor of the gooseberry comes from the combination of malic and citric acid with sugar, and the success of all cooking methods involving them relies on the proper development of these properties.
GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, &c.
GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, ETC.
430. INGREDIENTS.—Stock No. 104 or 107, doubling the quantity of meat in each.
430. INGREDIENTS.—Stock No. 104 or 107, doubling the amount of meat in each.
Mode.—We may remark at the outset, that unless glaze is wanted in very large quantities, it is seldom made expressly. Either of the stocks mentioned above, boiled down and reduced very considerably, will be found to produce a very good glaze. Put the stock into a stewpan, over a nice clear fire; let it boil till it becomes somewhat stiff, when keep stirring, to prevent its burning. The moment it is sufficiently reduced, and comes to a glaze, turn it out into the glaze-pot, of which we have here given an engraving. As, however, this is not to be found in every establishment, a white earthenware jar would answer the purpose; and this may be placed in a vessel of boiling water, to melt the glaze when required. It should never be warmed in a saucepan, except on the principle of the bain marie, lest it should reduce too much, and become black and bitter. If the glaze is wanted of a pale colour, more veal than beef should be used in making the stock; and it is as well to omit turnips and celery, as these impart a disagreeable bitter flavour.
Mode.—We should note right away that unless you need a lot of glaze, it’s rarely made specifically. Any of the stocks mentioned earlier, boiled down and significantly reduced, will create a very good glaze. Place the stock in a saucepan over a clean flame; let it boil until it thickens a bit, then keep stirring to avoid burning. As soon as it’s reduced enough and reaches a glaze, pour it into the glaze pot, which we have illustrated here. However, since this might not be available in every kitchen, a white earthenware jar will work just fine; this can be set in a pot of boiling water to melt the glaze when needed. It should never be warmed in a saucepan unless using the bain marie method, to prevent it from reducing too much and turning black and bitter. If you want the glaze to be a light color, use more veal than beef in the stock; also, it’s best to skip turnips and celery as they add an unpleasant bitter flavor.
TO GLAZE COLD JOINTS, &c.—Melt the glaze by placing the vessel which contains it, into the bain marie or saucepan of boiling water; brush it over the meat with a paste-brush, and if in places it is not quite covered, repeat the operation. The glaze should not be too dark a colour. (See Coloured Cut of Glazed Ham, P.)
TO GLAZE COLD JOINTS, &c.—Melt the glaze by putting the container with it into a bain marie or a pot of boiling water; then brush it over the meat with a pastry brush. If there are spots that aren't completely covered, do it again. The glaze shouldn't be too dark. (See Coloured Cut of Glazed Ham, P.)
[Illustration: GLAZE-KETTLE.]
[Illustration: GLAZE-KETTLE.]
[Illustration: THE BAIN MARIE.]
[Illustration: THE BAIN MARIE.]
GLAZE-KETTLE.—This is a kettle used for keeping the strong stock boiled down to a jelly, which is known by the name of glaze. It is composed of two tin vessels, as shown in the cut, one of which, the upper,—containing the glaze, is inserted into one of larger diameter and containing boiling water. A brush is put in the small hole at the top of the lid, and is employed for putting the glaze on anything that may require it.
GLAZE-KETTLE.—This is a kettle used for keeping the strong stock reduced to a jelly, which is called glaze. It consists of two tin vessels, as shown in the image, with the upper one—holding the glaze—fitted into a larger one that holds boiling water. A brush is inserted through the small hole at the top of the lid and is used to apply the glaze to anything that needs it.
THE BAIN MARIE.—So long ago as the time when emperors ruled in Rome, and the yellow Tiber passed through a populous and wealthy city, this utensil was extensively employed; and it is frequently mentioned by that profound culinary chemist of the ancients, Apicius. It is an open kind of vessel (as shown in the engraving and explained in our paragraph No. 87, on the French terms used in modern cookery), filled with boiling or nearly boiling water; and into this water should be put all the stewpans containing those ingredients which it is desired to keep hot. The quantity and quality of the contents of these vessels are not at all affected; and if the hour of dinner is uncertain in any establishment, by reason of the nature of the master's business, nothing is so certain a means of preserving the flavour of all dishes as the employment of the bain marie.
THE BAIN MARIE.—As far back as the time when emperors ruled in Rome, and the yellow Tiber flowed through a busy and wealthy city, this tool was widely used; it's often mentioned by the ancient culinary expert, Apicius. It’s a type of open vessel (as shown in the illustration and explained in our paragraph No. 87, on the French terms used in modern cooking), filled with boiling or nearly boiling water; into this water, you should place all the pots containing the ingredients you want to keep warm. The amount and quality of the contents aren’t affected at all; and if dinner time is uncertain in any household, due to the nature of the master's work, there’s no better way to preserve the flavor of all dishes than using the bain marie.
GREEN SAUCE FOR GREEN GEESE OR DUCKLINGS.
431. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of sorrel-juice, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 pint of green gooseberries, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter.
431. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of sorrel juice, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 pint of green gooseberries, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter.
Mode.—Boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender; mash them and press them through a sieve; put the pulp into a saucepan with the above ingredients; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Boil the gooseberries in water until they are soft; mash them and strain them through a sieve; put the pulp into a saucepan with the ingredients mentioned above; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve very hot.
Time.—3 or 4 minutes.
Time.—3 to 4 minutes.
Note.—We have given this recipe as a sauce for green geese, thinking that some of our readers might sometimes require it; but, at the generality of fashionable tables, it is now seldom or never served.
Note.—We’ve provided this recipe as a sauce for green geese, thinking that some of our readers might need it from time to time; however, at most trendy dining tables, it’s rarely or never served anymore.
[Illustration: SORREL.]
[Illustration: SORREL.]
SORREL.—We gather from the pages of Pliny and Apicius, that sorrel was cultivated by the Romans in order to give it more strength and flavour, and that they also partook of it sometimes stewed with mustard, being seasoned with a little oil and vinegar. At the present day, English cookery is not much indebted to this plant (Rumex Acetosa), although the French make use of it to a considerable extent. It is found in most parts of Great Britain, and also on the continent, growing wild in the grass meadows, and, in a few gardens, it is cultivated. The acid of sorrel is very prononcé, and is what chemists term a binoxalate of potash; that is, a combination of oxalic acid with potash.
SORREL.—We learn from the writings of Pliny and Apicius that the Romans grew sorrel to enhance its strength and flavor, and they sometimes enjoyed it cooked with mustard, seasoned with a bit of oil and vinegar. Nowadays, English cooking doesn't rely much on this plant (Rumex Acetosa), although the French use it quite a lot. It's found in most parts of Great Britain and also on the continent, growing wild in grassy meadows, and it's cultivated in a few gardens. The acidity of sorrel is very prononcé, which chemists refer to as a binoxalate of potash; that is, a combination of oxalic acid with potash.
GENERAL STOCK FOR GRAVIES.
432. Either of the stocks, Nos. 104, 105, or 107, will be found to answer very well for the basis of many gravies, unless these are wanted very rich indeed. By the addition of various store sauces, thickening and flavouring, the stocks here referred to may be converted into very good gravies. It should be borne in mind, however, that the goodness and strength of spices, wines, flavourings, &c., evaporate, and that they lose a great deal of their fragrance, if added to the gravy a long time before they are wanted. If this point is attended to, a saving of one half the quantity of these ingredients will be effected, as, with long boiling, the flavour almost entirely passes away. The shank-bones of mutton, previously well soaked, will be found a great assistance in enriching gravies; a kidney or melt, beef skirt, trimmings of meat, &c. &c., answer very well when only a small quantity is wanted, and, as we have before observed, a good gravy need not necessarily be so very expensive; for economically-prepared dishes are oftentimes found as savoury and wholesome as dearer ones. The cook should also remember that the fragrance of gravies should not be overpowered by too much spice, or any strong essences, and that they should always be warmed in a bain marie, after they are flavoured, or else in a jar or jug placed in a saucepan full of boiling water. The remains of roast-meat gravy should always be saved; as, when no meat is at hand, a very nice gravy in haste may be made from it, and when added to hashes, ragoûts, &c., is a great improvement.
432. Stocks 104, 105, or 107 work really well as the base for many gravies unless you want them to be very rich. By adding various store sauces, thickeners, and flavorings, the stocks mentioned can be turned into really good gravies. Keep in mind that the quality and strength of spices, wines, flavorings, etc., evaporate, and they lose a lot of their aroma if added to the gravy too early. If you pay attention to this, you can cut the amount of these ingredients by half since the flavor almost disappears with long boiling. Well-soaked mutton shank bones can greatly enhance gravies; a kidney, melt, beef skirt, or meat trimmings work really well when you only need a small amount. And as we mentioned before, a good gravy doesn’t have to be very expensive; dishes made economically are often just as tasty and wholesome as more expensive ones. The cook should also remember that the aroma of gravies shouldn’t be overwhelmed by too much spice or any strong essences and that they should always be warmed in a bain marie, or in a jar or jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water after they’re flavored. Always save the leftover gravy from roast meat; when there’s no meat available, you can quickly make a really nice gravy from it, and adding it to hashes, ragoûts, etc., greatly improves the dish.
[Illustration: GRAVY-KETTLE.]
[Illustration: GRAVY-KETTLE.]
GRAVY-KETTLE.—This is a utensil which will not be found in every kitchen; but it is a useful one where it is necessary to keep gravies hot for the purpose of pouring over various dishes as they are cooking. It is made of copper, and should, consequently, be heated over the hot plate, if there be one, or a charcoal stove. The price at which it can be purchased is set down by Messrs. Slack at 14s.
GRAVY-KETTLE.—This is a tool not commonly found in every kitchen, but it’s handy for keeping gravies hot to pour over different dishes as they cook. It’s made of copper and should be heated on a hot plate or a charcoal stove. Messrs. Slack lists the price at 14s.
GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT.
433. INGREDIENTS.—Gravy, salt.
433. INGREDIENTS.—Gravy, salt.
Mode.—Put a common dish with a small quantity of salt in it under the meat, about a quarter of an hour before it is removed from the fire. When the dish is full, take it away, baste the meat, and pour the gravy into the dish on which the joint is to be served.
Mode.—Place a regular dish with a small amount of salt underneath the meat about fifteen minutes before it’s done cooking. When the dish is full, take it out, baste the meat, and pour the gravy into the dish where the joint will be served.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES IN THE MIDDLE AGES.—Neither poultry, butcher's meat, nor roast game were eaten dry in the middle ages, any more than fried fish is now. Different sauces, each having its own peculiar flavour, were served with all these dishes, and even with the various parts of each animal. Strange and grotesque sauces, as, for example, "eggs cooked on the spit," "butter fried and roasted," were invented by the cooks of those days; but these preparations had hardly any other merit than that of being surprising and difficult to make.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES IN THE MIDDLE AGES.—In the Middle Ages, no one ate poultry, meat, or roast game without sauce, just like we wouldn’t eat fried fish plain today. Different sauces, each with its own unique flavor, were served with all these dishes and even with the various parts of each animal. The cooks of that time created strange and weird sauces, such as "eggs cooked on a spit" and "fried and roasted butter," but these dishes only stood out for being surprising and hard to make.
A QUICKLY-MADE GRAVY.
434. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of shin of beef, 1/2 onion, 1/4 carrot, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley and savoury herbs, a piece of butter about the size of a walnut; cayenne and mace to taste, 3/4 pint of water.
434. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of beef shin, 1/2 onion, 1/4 carrot, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley and savory herbs, a piece of butter about the size of a walnut; cayenne and mace to taste, 3/4 pint of water.
Mode.—Cut up the meat into very small pieces, slice the onion and carrot, and put them into a small saucepan with the butter. Keep stirring over a sharp fire until they have taken a little colour, when add the water and the remaining ingredients. Simmer for 1/2 hour, skim well, strain, and flavour, when it will be ready for use.
Mode.—Chop the meat into very small pieces, slice the onion and carrot, and place them in a small saucepan with the butter. Keep stirring over a high heat until they start to brown, then add the water and the rest of the ingredients. Let it simmer for 30 minutes, skim off any fat, strain, and season, and it will be ready to use.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 5d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, for this amount, 5 pence.
A HUNDRED DIFFERENT DISHES.—Modern housewives know pretty well how much care, and attention, and foresight are necessary in order to serve well a little dinner for six or eight persons,—a dinner which will give credit to the ménage, and satisfaction and pleasure to the guests. A quickly-made gravy, under some circumstances that we have known occur, will be useful to many housekeepers when they have not much time for preparation. But, talking of speed, and time, and preparation, what a combination of all these must have been necessary for the feast at the wedding of Charles VI. of France. On that occasion, as Froissart the chronicler tells us, the art of cooking, with its innumerable paraphernalia of sauces, with gravy, pepper, cinnamon, garlic, scallion, brains, gravy soups, milk potage, and ragoûts, had a signal triumph. The skilful chef-de-cuisine of the royal household covered the great marble table of the regal palace with no less than a hundred different dishes, prepared in a hundred different ways.
A HUNDRED DIFFERENT DISHES.—Modern homemakers understand how much care, attention, and planning are needed to serve a nice dinner for six or eight people—a dinner that reflects well on the home and gives satisfaction and enjoyment to the guests. A quick gravy, in certain situations we've seen, can be helpful for many cooks when they’re short on time. But speaking of speed, time, and preparation, just think of the combination of all these things required for the feast at the wedding of Charles VI of France. On that occasion, as the chronicler Froissart describes, the art of cooking, with its countless sauces, gravies, spices like pepper and cinnamon, garlic, scallions, brain dishes, gravy soups, creamy potage, and stews, had a remarkable triumph. The skilled chef-de-cuisine of the royal household laid out a great marble table at the royal palace with no fewer than a hundred different dishes, each prepared in its own distinctive way.
A GOOD BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, &c.
A GOOD BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, &c.
435. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of lean beef, 1/2 pint of cold water, 1 shalot or small onion, 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1/2 a teaspoonful of arrowroot.
435. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of lean beef, 1/2 pint of cold water, 1 shallot or small onion, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, a little pepper, 1 tablespoon of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1/2 teaspoon of arrowroot.
Mode.—Cut up the beef into small pieces, and put it, with the water, into a stewpan. Add the shalot and seasoning, and simmer gently for 3 hours, taking care that it does not boil fast. A short time before it is required, take the arrowroot, and having mixed it with a little cold water, pour it into the gravy, which keep stirring, adding the Harvey's sauce, and just letting it boil. Strain off the gravy in a tureen, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Cut the beef into small pieces and place it, along with the water, into a pot. Add the shallot and seasoning, and let it simmer gently for 3 hours, making sure it doesn’t boil too hard. A little before you need it, take the arrowroot, mix it with a bit of cold water, and stir it into the gravy, keeping it moving while adding the Harvey's sauce and allowing it to come to a brief boil. Strain the gravy into a serving dish and serve it hot.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 8d. per pint.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 8p. per pint.
BROWN GRAVY.
436. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, 2 small slices of lean bacon (if at hand), salt and whole pepper to taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts of water. For thickening, 2 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour.
436. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. butter, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. shin of beef, 2 small slices of lean bacon (if available), salt and whole pepper to taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts water. For thickening, 2 oz. butter, 3 oz. flour.
Mode.—Put the butter into a stewpan; set this on the fire, throw in the onions cut in rings, and fry them a light brown; then add the beef and bacon, which should be cut into small square pieces; season, and pour in a teacupful of water; let it boil for about ten minutes, or until it is of a nice brown colour, occasionally stirring the contents. Now fill up with water in the above proportion; let it boil up, when draw it to the side of the fire to simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour; strain, and when cold, take off all the fat. In thickening this gravy, melt 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 2 oz. of flour, and stir till of a light-brown colour; when cold, add it to the strained gravy, and boil it up quickly. This thickening may be made in larger quantities, and kept in a stone jar for use when wanted.
Method.—Put the butter in a saucepan; place it on the stove, add the onions cut into rings, and fry them until they’re a light brown. Then add the beef and bacon, which should be cut into small square pieces; season it, and pour in a teacup of water. Let it boil for about ten minutes or until it turns a nice brown color, stirring occasionally. Now add more water in the same amount; let it boil again, then move it to the side of the heat to simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hours; strain it, and once it’s cold, remove all the fat. To thicken this gravy, melt 3 oz. of butter in a saucepan, add 2 oz. of flour, and stir until it turns a light brown color; once it’s cool, add it to the strained gravy and bring it to a quick boil. This thickening can be made in larger quantities and stored in a stone jar for later use.
Time.—Altogether, 2 hours. Average cost, 4d. per pint.
Time.—Total time, 2 hours. Average cost, 4d. per pint.
CLOVES.—This very agreeable spice is the unexpanded flower-buds of the Caryophyllus aromaticus, a handsome, branching tree, a native of the Malacca Islands. They take their name from the Latin word clavus, or the French clou, both meaning a nail, and to which the clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves were but little known to the ancients, and Pliny appears to be the only writer who mentions them; and he says, vaguely enough, that some were brought to Rome, very similar to grains of pepper, but somewhat longer; that they were only to be found in India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served in the manufacture of perfumes. The Dutch, as in the case of the nutmeg (see 378), endeavoured, when they gained possession of the Spice Islands, to secure a monopoly of cloves, and, so that the cultivation of the tree might be confined to Amboyna, their chief island, bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all trees found elsewhere. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to be the best, and is rare; but other kinds, nearly equally good, are produced in other parts of the world, and they come to Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as also from St. Kitts, St. Vincent's, and Trinidad. The clove contains about 20 per cent. of volatile aromatic oil, to which it owes its peculiar pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of woody fibre, water, gum, and resin.
CLOVES.—This delightful spice comes from the unopened flower buds of the Caryophyllus aromaticus, a beautiful, branching tree native to the Malacca Islands. They get their name from the Latin word clavus or the French clou, both meaning a nail, which the clove resembles quite a bit. Cloves were not well known in ancient times, and Pliny seems to be the only writer who mentions them, saying rather vaguely that some were brought to Rome, similar to peppercorns but a bit longer; that they were only found in India, in a sacred wood; and that they were used in making perfumes. The Dutch, similar to their actions with nutmeg (see 378), tried to establish a monopoly on cloves when they controlled the Spice Islands. To keep clove cultivation limited to Amboyna, their main island, they bribed local chiefs to cut down all trees found elsewhere. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to be the best and is rare, but other nearly equal varieties are produced in various parts of the world, arriving in Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as well as from St. Kitts, St. Vincent's, and Trinidad. Cloves contain about 20 percent volatile aromatic oil, which gives them their distinct pungent flavor, while the rest consists of woody fiber, water, gum, and resin.
BROWN GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.
437. INGREDIENTS.—2 large onions, 1 large carrot, 2 oz. of butter, 3 pints of boiling water, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, a wineglassful of good beer; salt and pepper to taste.
437. INGREDIENTS.—2 large onions, 1 large carrot, 2 oz. of butter, 3 pints of boiling water, 1 bunch of savory herbs, a glass of good beer; salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Slice, flour, and fry the onions and carrots in the butter until of a nice light-brown colour; then add the boiling water and the remaining ingredients; let the whole stew gently for about an hour; then strain, and when cold, skim off all the fat. Thicken it in the same manner as recipe No. 436, and, if thought necessary, add a few drops of colouring No. 108.
Mode.—Chop, flour, and sauté the onions and carrots in the butter until they're a nice light brown color; then add the boiling water and the other ingredients; let everything simmer gently for about an hour; then strain, and when it's cool, skim off all the fat. Thicken it the same way as in recipe No. 436, and if you think it's necessary, add a few drops of coloring No. 108.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 2d. per pint.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 2p. per pint.
Note.—The addition of a small quantity of mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce very much improves the flavour of this gravy.
Note.—Adding a little mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce significantly enhances the flavor of this gravy.
RICH GRAVY FOR HASHES, RAGOUTS, &c.
RICH GRAVY FOR HASHES, STEWS, &c.
438. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 large onion or a few shalots, a little flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2 or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 slice of lean ham or bacon, 1/2 a head of celery (when at hand), 2 pints of boiling water; salt and cayenne to taste.
438. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef shin, 1 large onion or a few shallots, a little flour, a bunch of savory herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2 or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 1/4 teaspoon of whole pepper, 1 slice of lean ham or bacon, 1/2 a head of celery (if available), 2 pints of boiling water; salt and cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Cut the beef into thin slices, as also the onions, dredge them with flour, and fry of a pale brown, but do not allow them to get black; pour in the boiling water, let it boil up; and skim. Add the remaining ingredients, and simmer the whole very gently for 2 hours, or until all the juices are extracted from the meat; put it by to get cold, when take off all the fat. This gravy may be flavoured with ketchup, store sauces, wine, or, in fact, anything that may give additional and suitable relish to the dish it is intended for.
Mode.—Cut the beef and onions into thin slices, coat them with flour, and fry until they're a light brown, but avoid letting them burn; pour in boiling water, bring it to a boil, and skim off any foam. Add the remaining ingredients and let it simmer very gently for 2 hours, or until all the juices from the meat are released; then set it aside to cool, and remove all the fat. You can flavor this gravy with ketchup, store-bought sauces, wine, or pretty much anything else that will add extra flavor to the dish it's meant for.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours.
Time.—Over 2 hours.
Average cost, 8d. per pint.
Average cost, 8d. a pint.
[Illustration: PIMENTO.]
[Pimento: Illustration.]
ALLSPICE.—This is the popular name given to pimento, or Jamaica pepper, known to naturalists as Eugenia pimenta, and belonging to the order of Myrtaceae. It is the berry of a fine tree in the West Indies and South America, which attains a height of from fifteen to twenty feet: the berries are not allowed to ripen, but, being gathered green, are then dried in the sun, and then become black. It is an inexpensive spice, and is considered more mild and innocent than most other spices; consequently, it is much used for domestic purposes, combining a very agreeable variety of flavours.
ALLSPICE.—This is the common name for pimento, or Jamaica pepper, known scientifically as Eugenia pimenta, and it belongs to the Myrtaceae family. It's the berry from a beautiful tree found in the West Indies and South America, which can grow to between fifteen and twenty feet tall. The berries are picked while they're still green and then dried in the sun, turning black in the process. It's an affordable spice and is considered milder and less intense than many other spices; as a result, it's widely used in home cooking, offering a pleasing mix of flavors.
GRAVY MADE WITHOUT MEAT FOR FOWLS.
439. INGREDIENTS.—The necks, feet, livers, and gizzards of the fowls, 1 slice of toasted bread, 1/2 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/2 pint of water, thickening of butter and flour, 1 dessertspoonful of ketchup.
439. INGREDIENTS.—The necks, feet, livers, and gizzards of the birds, 1 slice of toasted bread, 1/2 onion, 1 bundle of savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/2 pint of water, thickening of butter and flour, 1 dessert spoonful of ketchup.
Mode.—Wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly clean, and cut them and the neck into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with the bread, onion, herbs, seasoning, livers, and gizzards; pour the water over them and simmer gently for 1 hour. Now take out the liver, pound it, and strain the liquor to it. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and a flavouring of mushroom ketchup; boil it up and serve.
Mode.—Clean the birds' feet thoroughly, and chop them and the neck into small pieces. Place them in a stewpan with the bread, onion, herbs, seasoning, livers, and gizzards; pour water over everything and let it simmer gently for 1 hour. Next, remove the liver, mash it, and strain the liquid into it. Add a mixture of butter and flour to thicken, along with some mushroom ketchup for flavor; bring it to a boil and serve.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 4d. per pint.
Time—1 hour. Average cost, 4d. per pint.
A CHEAP GRAVY FOR HASHES, &c.
A BUDGET GRAVY FOR HASHES, &c.
440. INGREDIENTS.—Bones and trimmings of the cooked joint intended for hashing, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of whole allspice, a small faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening, sufficient boiling water to cover the bones.
440. INGREDIENTS.—Bones and trimmings of the cooked meat meant for hashing, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon whole pepper, 1/4 teaspoon whole allspice, a small bunch of savory herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening, and enough boiling water to cover the bones.
Mode.—Chop the bones in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan, with the trimmings, salt, pepper, spice, herbs, and celery. Cover with boiling water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1-1/2 or 2 hours. Slice and fry the onion in the butter till it is of a pale brown, and mix it gradually with the gravy made from the bones; boil for 1/4 hour, and strain into a basin; now put it back into the stewpan; flavour with walnut pickle or ketchup, pickled-onion liquor, or any store sauce that may be preferred. Thicken with a little butter and flour, kneaded together on a plate, and the gravy will be ready for use. After the thickening is added, the gravy should just boil, to take off the rawness of the flour.
Mode.—Cut the bones into small pieces and place them in a pot along with the scraps, salt, pepper, spices, herbs, and celery. Cover with boiling water and let it simmer gently for 1.5 to 2 hours. Slice and cook the onion in the butter until it turns a light brown, then gradually mix it with the gravy made from the bones; boil for 15 minutes and strain into a bowl. Put it back into the pot; add flavor with walnut pickle or ketchup, pickled onion juice, or any store-bought sauce you prefer. Thicken with a bit of butter and flour kneaded together on a plate, and the gravy will be ready to use. After adding the thickening, the gravy should just reach a boil to remove the raw taste of the flour.
Time.—2 hours, or rather more.
Time.—About 2 hours.
Average cost, 4d., exclusive of the bones and trimmings.
Average cost, 4d., not including the bones and scraps.
JUGGED GRAVY (Excellent).
JUGGED GRAVY (Awesome).
441. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1/4 lb. of lean ham, 1 onion or a few shalots, 2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 blade of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 a large carrot, 1/2 a head of celery.
441. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of beef shank, 1/4 lb. of lean ham, 1 onion or a few shallots, 2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 blade of mace, a bundle of savory herbs, 1/2 a large carrot, 1/2 a head of celery.
Mode.—Cut up the beef and ham into small pieces, and slice the vegetables; take a jar, capable of holding two pints of water, and arrange therein, in layers, the ham, meat, vegetables, and seasoning, alternately, filling up with the above quantity of water; tie down the jar, or put a plate over the top, so that the steam may not escape; place it in the oven, and let it remain there from 6 to 8 hours; should, however, the oven be very hot, less time will be required. When sufficiently cooked, strain the gravy, and when cold, remove the fat. It may be flavoured with ketchup, wines, or any other store sauce that may be preferred.
Mode.—Chop the beef and ham into small pieces, and slice the vegetables. Take a jar that can hold two pints of water and layer the ham, meat, vegetables, and seasoning alternately inside, filling it with the specified amount of water. Cover the jar with a lid or a plate to keep the steam in. Place it in the oven and let it cook for 6 to 8 hours, but if the oven is very hot, it may need less time. Once it's cooked enough, strain the gravy, and when it's cool, remove the fat. You can add flavor with ketchup, wine, or any other sauce you prefer.
It is a good plan to put the jar in a cool oven over-night, to draw the gravy; and then it will not require so long baking the following day.
It's a good idea to place the jar in a cool oven overnight to draw out the gravy; this way, it won't take as long to bake the next day.
Time.—From 6 to 8 hours, according to the oven.
Time.—6 to 8 hours, depending on the oven.
Average cost, 7d. per pint.
Average cost, 7d. per beer.
[Illustration: CELERY.]
[Illustration: CELERY.]
CELERY.—As in the above recipe, the roots of celery are principally used in England for flavouring soups, sauces, and gravies, and for serving with cheese at the termination of a dinner, and as an ingredient for salad. In Italy, however, the green leaves and stems are also employed for stews and soups, and the seeds are also more frequently made use of on the continent than in our own islands. In Germany, celery is very highly esteemed; and it is there boiled and served up as a dish by itself, as well as used in the composition of mixed dishes. We ourselves think that this mild aromatic plant might oftener be cooked than it is; for there are very few nicer vegetable preparations brought to table than a well-dressed plate of stewed celery.
CELERY.—As mentioned in the previous recipe, celery roots are mainly used in England to add flavor to soups, sauces, and gravies, and they're served with cheese at the end of a meal, as well as being an ingredient in salads. However, in Italy, the green leaves and stems are also used in stews and soups, and the seeds are used more often on the continent than in our own islands. In Germany, celery is held in high regard; it is boiled and served as a standalone dish, as well as being included in mixed dishes. We believe that this mild aromatic plant could be cooked more often than it currently is; there are very few vegetable dishes that are nicer than a well-prepared plate of stewed celery.
VEAL GRAVY FOR WHITE SAUCES, FRICASSEES, &c.
VEAL GRAVY FOR WHITE SAUCES, FRICASSEES, &c.
442. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of nicely flavoured lean ham, any poultry trimmings, 3 lbs. of lean veal, a faggot of savoury herbs, including parsley, a few green onions (or 1 large onion may be substituted for these), a few mushrooms, when obtainable; 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 3 pints of water.
442. INGREDIENTS.—2 slices of nicely flavored lean ham, any leftover poultry trimmings, 3 lbs. of lean veal, a bundle of savory herbs, including parsley, a few green onions (or 1 large onion can be used instead), a few mushrooms, if available; 1 blade of mace, salt to taste, 3 pints of water.
Mode.—Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, put these in a stewpan, moistening them with a small quantity of water; place them over the fire to draw down. When the bottom of the stewpan becomes covered with a white glaze, fill up with water in the above proportion; add the remaining ingredients, stew very slowly for 3 or 4 hours, and do not forget to skim well the moment it boils. Put it by, and, when cold, take off all the fat. This may be used for Béchamel, sauce tournée, and many other white sauces.
Method.—Cut the ham and veal into small square pieces, put them in a saucepan, and moisten with a little water; place them over the heat to render down. When the bottom of the saucepan is covered with a white glaze, fill it with water in the same proportion; add the remaining ingredients, and simmer very slowly for 3 or 4 hours, remembering to skim well as soon as it boils. Set it aside, and when it's cool, remove all the fat. This can be used for Béchamel, sauce tournée, and many other white sauces.
Time.—3 or 4 hours. Average cost, 9d. per pint.
Time.—3 or 4 hours. Average cost, 9p. per pint.
CHEAP GRAVY FOR MINCED VEAL.
443. INGREDIENTS.—Bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, the juice of 1/4 lemon; thickening of butter and flour.
443. INGREDIENTS.—Bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal, 1-1/2 pints of water, 1 onion, 1/4 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 1/4 teaspoon of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, the juice of 1/4 lemon; thickening of butter and flour.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, except the thickening and lemon-juice, and let them simmer very gently for rather more than 1 hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a pint, when strain through a hair-sieve. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and the lemon-juice; set it on the fire, and let it just boil up, when it will be ready for use. It may be flavoured with a little tomato sauce, and, where a rather dark-coloured gravy is not objected to, ketchup, or Harvey's sauce, may be added at pleasure.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan, except for the thickening and lemon juice, and let them simmer very gently for just over an hour, or until the liquid is reduced to a pint. Strain through a fine sieve. Add a thickening mixture of butter and flour along with the lemon juice; place it back on the heat and allow it to come to a gentle boil, at which point it will be ready to use. You can add a bit of tomato sauce for flavor, and if you don't mind a darker gravy, feel free to incorporate ketchup or Harvey's sauce to your liking.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 3d.
Time.—A little over 1 hour. Average cost, 3d.
GRAVY FOR VENISON.
444. INGREDIENTS.—Trimmings of venison, 3 or 4 mutton shank-bones, salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup.
444. INGREDIENTS.—Trimmings of venison, 3 or 4 mutton shank bones, salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 teaspoons of walnut ketchup.
Mode.—Brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire, and put them in a stewpan with the shank-bones and water; simmer gently for 2 hours, strain and skim, and add the walnut ketchup and a seasoning of salt. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve.
Mode.—Brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire, and put them in a stewpot with the shank bones and water; simmer gently for 2 hours, strain and skim, and add the walnut ketchup and a pinch of salt. Let it come to a boil when it's ready to serve.
Time.—2 hours.
Duration.—2 hours.
[Illustration: THE DEER.]
[Illustration: THE DEER.]
VENISON.—Far, far away in ages past, our fathers loved the chase, and what it brought; and it is usually imagined that when Isaac ordered his son Esau to go out with his weapons, his quiver and his bow, and to prepare for him savoury meat, such as he loved, that it was venison he desired. The wise Solomon, too, delighted in this kind of fare; for we learn that, at his table, every day were served the wild ox, the roebuck, and the stag. Xenophon informs us, in his History, that Cyrus, king of Persia, ordered that venison should never be wanting at his repasts; and of the effeminate Greeks it was the delight. The Romans, also, were devoted admirers of the flesh of the deer; and our own kings and princes, from the Great Alfred down to the Prince Consort, have hunted, although, it must be confessed, under vastly different circumstances, the swift buck, and relished their "haunch" all the more keenly, that they had borne themselves bravely in the pursuit of the animal.
VENISON.—A long time ago, our ancestors loved the hunt and what it provided; it's commonly believed that when Isaac told his son Esau to grab his weapons, his quiver, and his bow to prepare a tasty meal, he was actually asking for venison. The wise Solomon also enjoyed this type of food; it’s noted that at his table, he had wild ox, roebuck, and stag served daily. Xenophon tells us in his History that Cyrus, the king of Persia, made sure that venison was always present at his meals; even the Greeks, known for their refinement, delighted in it. The Romans were also big fans of deer meat, and our own kings and princes, from Great Alfred to the Prince Consort, hunted the swift buck—though it must be said, under very different circumstances—and enjoyed their "haunch" even more because they had bravely pursued the animal.
TO DRY HERBS FOR WINTER USE.
445. On a very dry day, gather the herbs, just before they begin to flower. If this is done when the weather is damp, the herbs will not be so good a colour. (It is very necessary to be particular in little matters like this, for trifles constitute perfection, and herbs nicely dried will be found very acceptable when frost and snow are on the ground. It is hardly necessary, however, to state that the flavour and fragrance of fresh herbs are incomparably finer.) They should be perfectly freed from dirt and dust, and be divided into small bunches, with their roots cut off. Dry them quickly in a very hot oven, or before the fire, as by this means most of their flavour will be preserved, and be careful not to burn them; tie them up in paper bags, and keep in a dry place. This is a very general way of preserving dried herbs; but we would recommend the plan described in a former recipe.
445. On a very dry day, pick the herbs just before they start to flower. If you do this when it's damp, the herbs won't have such a nice color. (It's important to pay attention to small details like this, because little things make perfection, and well-dried herbs will be very useful when it's frosty and snowy outside. However, it’s not necessary to say that the flavor and scent of fresh herbs are far superior.) They should be completely cleaned of dirt and dust, and divided into small bunches with the roots trimmed off. Dry them quickly in a very hot oven or in front of the fire, as this will help preserve most of their flavor, and make sure not to burn them; then tie them up in paper bags and store in a dry place. This is a common method for preserving dried herbs, but we recommend the method described in an earlier recipe.
Seasonable.—From the month of July to the end of September is the proper time for storing herbs for winter use.
Seasonable.—From July to the end of September is the right time to store herbs for winter use.
HERB POWDER FOR FLAVOURING, when Fresh Herbs are not obtainable.
HERB POWDER FOR FLAVORING, when Fresh Herbs are not available.
446. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of dried lemon-thyme, 1 oz. of dried winter savory, 1 oz. of dried sweet marjoram and basil, 2 oz. of dried parsley, 1 oz. of dried lemon-peel.
446. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of dried lemon thyme, 1 oz. of dried winter savory, 1 oz. of dried sweet marjoram and basil, 2 oz. of dried parsley, 1 oz. of dried lemon peel.
Mode.—Prepare and dry the herbs by recipe No. 445; pick the leaves from the stalks, pound them, and sift them through a hair-sieve; mix in the above proportions, and keep in glass bottles, carefully excluding the air. This, we think, a far better method of keeping herbs, as the flavour and fragrance do not evaporate so much as when they are merely put in paper bags. Preparing them in this way, you have them ready for use at a moment's notice.
Method.—Prepare and dry the herbs according to recipe No. 445; remove the leaves from the stems, crush them, and sift them through a fine sieve; mix in the specified proportions, and store in glass bottles, making sure to keep air out. We believe this is a much better way to preserve herbs, as the flavor and aroma do not evaporate as quickly as when they are simply stored in paper bags. By preparing them this way, you'll have them ready to use at a moment's notice.
Mint, sage, parsley, &c., dried, pounded, and each put into separate bottles, will be found very useful in winter.
Mint, sage, parsley, etc., dried, crushed, and each stored in separate bottles will be very useful in winter.
[Illustration: CORK WITH WOODEN TOP.]
[Illustration: Cork with wooden top.]
CORKS WITH WOODEN TOPS.—These are the best corks to use when it is indispensable that the air should not be admitted to the ingredients contained in bottles which are in constant use. The top, which, as will be seen by the accompanying little cut, is larger than the cork, is made of wood; and, besides effectually covering the whole top of the bottle, can be easily removed and again used, as no corkscrew is necessary to pull it out.
CORKS WITH WOODEN TOPS.—These are the best corks to use when it's essential that no air enters the ingredients in bottles that are used frequently. The top, which is larger than the cork as shown in the accompanying illustration, is made of wood. It not only fully covers the bottle's opening but can also be easily removed and reused since a corkscrew isn’t needed to take it out.
SAVORY.—This we find described by Columella, a voluminous Roman writer on agriculture, as an odoriferous herb, which, "in the brave days of old," entered into the seasoning of nearly every dish. Verily, there are but few new things under the sun, and we don't find that we have made many discoveries in gastronomy, at least beyond what was known to the ancient inhabitants of Italy. We possess two varieties of this aromatic herb, known to naturalists as Satureja. They are called summer and winter savory, according to the time of the year when they are fit for gathering. Both sorts are in general cultivation throughout England.
SAVORY.—This is described by Columella, a prolific Roman writer on agriculture, as a fragrant herb that, "in the good old days," was used to season almost every dish. Indeed, there are very few new things these days, and we haven’t made many discoveries in cooking, at least not beyond what the ancient people of Italy already knew. We have two types of this aromatic herb, known to scientists as Satureja. They are called summer and winter savory, based on the time of year when they are ready to be harvested. Both varieties are widely grown throughout England.
HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve with Roast Beef.
HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve with Roast Beef.
447. INGREDIENTS.—4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of made mustard; vinegar.
447. INGREDIENTS.—4 tablespoons of grated horseradish, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 2 teaspoons of prepared mustard; vinegar.
Mode.—Grate the horseradish, and mix it well with the sugar, salt, pepper, and mustard; moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give it the consistency of cream, and serve in a tureen: 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of cream added to the above, very much improve the appearance and flavour of this sauce. To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put it in a bain marie or a jar, which place in a saucepan of boiling water; make it hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle.
Mode.—Grate the horseradish and mix it well with sugar, salt, pepper, and mustard; add enough vinegar to achieve a creamy consistency, and serve in a serving bowl. Adding 3 or 4 tablespoons of cream to the mixture greatly enhances both the appearance and flavor of the sauce. To heat it for serving with hot roast beef, place it in a bain-marie or a jar inside a saucepan of boiling water; warm it up, but don’t let it boil, or it will curdle.
Note.—This sauce is a great improvement on the old-fashioned way of serving cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast beef. The mixing of the cold vinegar with the warm gravy cools and spoils everything on the plate. Of course, with cold meat, the sauce should be served cold.
Note.—This sauce is a big upgrade from the traditional method of serving cold-scraped horseradish with hot roast beef. Mixing the cold vinegar with the warm gravy messes up everything on the plate. Naturally, when serving cold meat, the sauce should also be cold.
[Illustration: THE HORSERADISH.]
[Illustration: THE HORSERADISH.]
THE HORSERADISH.—This has been, for many years, a favourite accompaniment of roast beef, and is a native of England. It grows wild in wet ground, but has long been cultivated in the garden, and is, occasionally, used in winter salads and in sauces. On account of the great volatility of its oil, it should never be preserved by drying, but should be kept moist by being buried in sand. So rapidly does its volatile oil evaporate, that even when scraped for the table, it almost immediately spoils by exposure to the air.
THE HORSERADISH.—This has been, for many years, a favorite side dish for roast beef and is native to England. It grows wild in wet land but has long been cultivated in gardens and is sometimes used in winter salads and sauces. Because its oil evaporates quickly, it should never be preserved by drying; instead, it should be kept moist by burying it in sand. Its volatile oil evaporates so fast that even when it's grated for serving, it can spoil almost immediately when exposed to air.
HORSERADISH VINEGAR.
448. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of scraped horseradish, 1 oz. of minced shalot, 1 drachm of cayenne, 1 quart of vinegar.
448. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of grated horseradish, 1 oz. of chopped shallot, 1 tsp. of cayenne pepper, 1 quart of vinegar.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a bottle, which shake well every day for a fortnight. When it is thoroughly steeped, strain and bottle, and it will be fit for use immediately. This will be found an agreeable relish to cold beef, &c.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a bottle and shake it well every day for two weeks. Once it’s fully infused, strain it and transfer it to another bottle; it will be ready to use right away. This will make a nice condiment for cold beef, etc.
Seasonable.—This vinegar should be made either in October or November, as horseradish is then in its highest perfection.
Seasonable.—This vinegar should be made in either October or November, when horseradish is at its best.
INDIAN CURRY-POWDER, founded on Dr. Kitchener's Recipe.
INDIAN CURRY POWDER, based on Dr. Kitchener's recipe.
449. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of coriander-seed, 1/4 lb. of turmeric, 2 oz. of cinnamon-seed, 1/2 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. of mustard, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1/2 ounce of allspice, 2 oz. of fenugreek-seed.
449. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of coriander seeds, 1/4 lb. of turmeric, 2 oz. of cinnamon seeds, 1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 1 oz. of mustard, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 2 oz. of fenugreek seeds.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients in a cool oven, where they should remain one night; then pound them in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and mix thoroughly together; keep the powder in a bottle, from which the air should be completely excluded.
Method.—Place all the ingredients in a cool oven, where they should stay overnight; then grind them in a mortar, sift them through a sieve, and mix everything well; store the powder in a bottle that is airtight.
Note.—We have given this recipe for curry-powder, as some persons prefer to make it at home; but that purchased at any respectable shop is, generally speaking, far superior, and, taking all things into consideration, very frequently more economical.
Note.—We've provided this recipe for curry powder because some people prefer to make it at home; however, the kind you buy from a reputable store is usually much better and, when you consider everything, often more cost-effective.
INDIAN MUSTARD, an excellent Relish to Bread and Butter, or any cold
Meat.
INDIAN MUSTARD, a great condiment for bread and butter, or any cold
meat.
450. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of the best mustard, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of salt, 4 shalots, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/4 bottle of anchovy sauce.
450. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of the best mustard, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of salt, 4 shallots, 4 tablespoons of vinegar, 4 tablespoons of ketchup, 1/4 bottle of anchovy sauce.
Mode.—Put the mustard, flour, and salt into a basin, and make them into a stiff paste with boiling water. Boil the shalots with the vinegar, ketchup, and anchovy sauce, for 10 minutes, and pour the whole, boiling, over the mixture in the basin; stir well, and reduce it to a proper thickness; put it into a bottle, with a bruised shalot at the bottom, and store away for use. This makes an excellent relish, and if properly prepared will keep for years.
Mode.—Put the mustard, flour, and salt in a bowl and mix them into a thick paste with boiling water. Cook the shallots with the vinegar, ketchup, and anchovy sauce for 10 minutes, then pour the entire hot mixture over the ingredients in the bowl; stir well and cook until it reaches the right thickness. Transfer it to a bottle, placing a bruised shallot at the bottom, and store it for later use. This creates a fantastic sauce, and if made correctly, it can last for years.
[Illustration: MUSTARD.]
[Illustration: MUSTARD.]
MUSTARD.—Before the year 1729, mustard was not known at English tables. About that time an old woman, of the name of Clements, residing in Durham, began to grind the seed in a mill, and to pass the flour through several processes necessary to free the seed from its husks. She kept her secret for many years to herself, during which she sold large quantities of mustard throughout the country, but especially in London. Here it was introduced to the royal table, when it received the approval of George I. From the circumstance of Mrs. Clements being a resident at Durham, it obtained the name of Durham mustard. In the county of that name it is still principally cultivated, and the plant is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. It is the best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive organs, and even in its previously coarsely-pounded state, had a high reputation with our ancestors.
MUSTARD.—Before 1729, mustard wasn't known on English tables. Around that time, an elderly woman named Clements, living in Durham, started grinding the seed in a mill and processing the flour to remove the husks. She kept her method a secret for many years, during which she sold large amounts of mustard across the country, especially in London. It was introduced to the royal table, gaining the approval of George I. Because Mrs. Clements lived in Durham, it became known as Durham mustard. It’s still mainly grown in that county, and the plant is notable for its fast growth. It's the best stimulant used to strengthen the digestive system, and even in its earlier coarsely-ground form, it had a strong reputation among our ancestors.
INDIAN PICKLE (very Superior).
INDIAN PICKLE (very superior).
451. INGREDIENTS.—To each gallon of vinegar allow 6 cloves of garlic, 12 shalots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, 1/4 lb. of bruised ginger, 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 12 cloves, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1 oz. of turmeric; a white cabbage, cauliflowers, radish-pods, French beans, gherkins, small round pickling-onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, &c.
451. INGREDIENTS.—For each gallon of vinegar, use 6 cloves of garlic, 12 shallots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, 1/4 lb. of crushed ginger, 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 12 cloves, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard seeds, 1/4 lb. of mustard, and 1 oz. of turmeric; along with a white cabbage, cauliflower, radish pods, French beans, gherkins, small round pickling onions, nasturtiums, capiscums, chilies, etc.
Mode.—Cut the cabbage, which must be hard and white, into slices, and the cauliflowers into small branches; sprinkle salt over them in a large dish, and let them remain two days; then dry them, and put them into a very large jar, with garlic, shalots, horseradish, ginger, pepper, allspice, and cloves, in the above proportions. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, which pour over, and, when cold, cover up to keep them free from dust. As the other things for the pickle ripen at different times, they may be added as they are ready: these will be radish-pods, French beans, gherkins, small onions, nasturtiums, capsicums, chilies, &c. &c. As these are procured, they must, first of all, be washed in a little cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply added to the other ingredients in the large jar, only taking care that they are covered by the vinegar. If more vinegar should be wanted to add to the pickle, do not omit first to boil it before adding it to the rest. When you have collected all the things you require, turn all out in a large pan, and thoroughly mix them. Now put the mixed vegetables into smaller jars, without any of the vinegar; then boil the vinegar again, adding as much more as will be required to fill the different jars, and also cayenne, mustard-seed, turmeric, and mustard, which must be well mixed with a little cold vinegar, allowing the quantities named above to each gallon of vinegar. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, over the pickle, and when cold, tie down with a bladder. If the pickle is wanted for immediate use, the vinegar should be boiled twice more, but the better way is to make it during one season for use during the next. It will keep for years, if care is taken that the vegetables are quite covered by the vinegar.
Method.—Chop the cabbage, which should be firm and white, into slices, and break the cauliflower into small florets; sprinkle salt over them in a large dish and let them sit for two days. After that, dry them and place them in a very large jar, along with garlic, shallots, horseradish, ginger, pepper, allspice, and cloves, in the amounts mentioned above. Boil enough vinegar to cover them, pour it over, and, once cool, cover it to keep dust away. Since the other pickling items ripen at different times, you can add them as they become available: these will include radish pods, green beans, gherkins, small onions, nasturtiums, bell peppers, chilies, etc. As you get these, wash them in a bit of cold vinegar, wipe them, and then simply add them to the other ingredients in the large jar, ensuring they are covered by the vinegar. If you need more vinegar to add to the pickle, always boil it first before pouring it in. Once you have gathered all the necessary items, empty everything into a large pan and mix thoroughly. Now transfer the mixed vegetables into smaller jars, without any vinegar. Then boil the vinegar again, adding just enough more to fill the various jars, along with cayenne, mustard seed, turmeric, and mustard, which should be well mixed with a bit of cold vinegar, using the quantities specified for each gallon of vinegar. Pour the boiling hot vinegar over the pickles, and once cool, secure the jars with a bladder. If you need the pickles right away, boil the vinegar two more times, but the best method is to prepare it during one season for use in the next. It will last for years, as long as the vegetables are completely submerged in the vinegar.
This recipe was taken from the directions of a lady whose pickle was always pronounced excellent by all who tasted it, and who has, for many years, exactly followed the recipe given above.
This recipe comes from a woman whose pickles were always deemed excellent by everyone who tried them, and who has followed the recipe above precisely for many years.
__Note_.—For small families, perhaps the above quantity of pickle will be considered too large; but this may be decreased at pleasure, taking care to properly proportion the various ingredients.
__Note_.—For small families, the amount of pickle mentioned above might be too much; however, this can be reduced as desired, making sure to properly adjust the proportions of the different ingredients.
[Illustration: INDIA PICKLE.]
[Illustration: Indian Pickle.]
KEEPING PICKLES.—Nothing shows more, perhaps, the difference between a tidy thrifty housewife and a lady to whom these desirable epithets may not honestly be applied, than the appearance of their respective store-closets. The former is able, the moment anything; is wanted, to put her hand on it at once; no time is lost, no vexation incurred, no dish spoilt for the want of "just little something,"—the latter, on the contrary, hunts all over her cupboard for the ketchup the cook requires, or the pickle the husband thinks he should like a little of with his cold roast beef or mutton-chop, and vainly seeks for the Embden groats, or arrowroot, to make one of her little boys some gruel. One plan, then, we strenuously advise all who do not follow, to begin at once, and that is, to label all their various pickles and store sauces, in the same way as the cut here shows. It will occupy a little time at first, but there will be economy of it in the long run.
KEEPING PICKLES.—Nothing perhaps illustrates the difference between an organized, thrifty housewife and one who doesn’t embody these qualities quite like the state of their respective pantry cabinets. The former can immediately find anything she needs; no time is wasted, no frustration experienced, and no dish ruined for lack of “just a little something.” In contrast, the latter searches her cupboard for the ketchup the cook needs or the pickle her husband thinks would be nice with his cold roast beef or mutton chop, and she looks in vain for the Embden groats or arrowroot to make some gruel for one of her little boys. One recommendation we strongly encourage everyone who doesn’t already do this to implement right away is to label all their various pickles and sauces, just like the example shown here. It may take a little time initially, but it will save time in the long run.
VINEGAR.—This term is derived from the two French words vin aigre, 'sour wine,' and should, therefore, be strictly applied to that which is made only from wine. As the acid is the same, however it is procured, that made from ale also takes the same name. Nearly all ancient nations were acquainted with the use of vinegar. We learn in Ruth, that the reapers in the East soaked their bread in it to freshen it. The Romans kept large quantities of it in their cellars, using it, to a great extent, in their seasonings and sauces. This people attributed very beneficial qualities to it, as it was supposed to be digestive, antibilious, and antiscorbutic, as well as refreshing. Spartianus, a Latin historian, tells us that, mixed with water, it was the drink of the soldiers, and that, thanks to this beverage, the veterans of the Roman army braved, by its use, the inclemency and variety of all the different seasons and climates of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is said, the Spanish peasantry, and other inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe, still follow this practice, and add to a gallon of water about a gill of wine vinegar, with a little salt; and that this drink, with a little bread, enables them, under the heat of their burning sun, to sustain the labours of the field.
VINEGAR.—This term comes from the two French words vin aigre, meaning 'sour wine,' and should therefore be specifically applied to what is made only from wine. Since the acid is the same regardless of how it is produced, vinegar made from ale also shares the same name. Almost all ancient cultures were familiar with the use of vinegar. In Ruth, we learn that harvesters in the East soaked their bread in it to make it fresh. The Romans stored large amounts of it in their cellars, using it extensively in their seasonings and sauces. They believed it had many health benefits, as it was thought to aid digestion, help with bile problems, prevent scurvy, and refresh the body. Spartianus, a Latin historian, tells us that when mixed with water, it was the drink of soldiers, and that this beverage helped Roman veterans endure the harshness and variations of different seasons and climates across Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is said that Spanish peasants and other people living in southern Europe still practice this tradition, mixing a gallon of water with about a gill of wine vinegar and some salt; this drink, along with a bit of bread, allows them to withstand the labor of the fields under the intense heat of the sun.
INDIAN CHETNEY SAUCE.
452. INGREDIENTS.—8 oz. of sharp, sour apples, pared and cored; 8 oz. of tomatoes, 8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown, sugar, 8 oz. of stoned raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne, 4 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of garlic, 2 oz. of shalots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon-juice.
452. INGREDIENTS.—8 oz. of tart, sour apples, peeled and cored; 8 oz. of tomatoes, 8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown sugar, 8 oz. of pitted raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne pepper, 4 oz. of ground ginger, 2 oz. of garlic, 2 oz. of shallots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon juice.
Mode.—Chop the apples in small square pieces, and add to them the other ingredients. Mix the whole well together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation; strain, but do not squeeze it dry; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or fish.
Mode.—Chop the apples into small square pieces and add the other ingredients. Mix everything together well and put it in a tightly covered jar. Keep it in a warm place and stir it every day for a month, making sure to put the lid back on after stirring. Strain it, but don’t squeeze it dry; store it in clean jars or bottles for later use, and the liquid will make an excellent sauce for meat or fish.
Seasonable.—Make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season, that is, from the beginning of September to the end of October.
Seasonable.—Make this sauce when tomatoes are at their peak, which is from early September to the end of October.
PICKLES.—The ancient Greeks and Romans held their pickles in high estimation. They consisted of flowers, herbs, roots, and vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which were kept, for a long time, in cylindrical vases with wide mouths. Their cooks prepared pickles with the greatest care, and the various ingredients were macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with which they were often impregnated drop by drop. Meat, also, after having been cut into very small pieces, was treated in the same manner.
PICKLES.—The ancient Greeks and Romans really valued their pickles. They were made from flowers, herbs, roots, and vegetables, all preserved in vinegar, and stored for a long time in wide-mouthed cylindrical jars. Their cooks took great care in making pickles, carefully soaking the different ingredients in oil, brine, and vinegar, often adding them drop by drop. Meat was also cut into very small pieces and treated in the same way.
ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown).
BROWN ITALIAN SAUCE.
453. INGREDIENTS.—A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, 1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
453. INGREDIENTS.—A few chopped mushrooms and shallots, 1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley.
Mode.—Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, and Madeira, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, then add the remaining ingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough, put it in another stewpan, and warm it in a bain marie. (See No. 430.) The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as they will then become black.
Mode.—Put the stock in a saucepan with the mushrooms, shallots, and Madeira, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Then add the rest of the ingredients and let them come to a boil. When the sauce is ready, transfer it to another saucepan and keep it warm in a bain marie. (See No. 430.) The mushrooms shouldn't be chopped long before you need them, as they will turn black.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 7d.
Time.—15 minutes. Average cost, for this amount, 7p.
Sufficient for a small dish.
Enough for a small dish.
ITALIAN SAUCE (White).
White Italian Sauce.
454. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham, minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Béchamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a few drops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of lemon-juice.
454. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoons of chopped mushrooms, 1 dessert spoon of chopped shallots, 1 slice of ham, minced very finely; 1/4 pint of Béchamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a few drops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar, a squeeze of lemon juice.
Mode.—Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and ham, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour, when add the Béchamel. Let it just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above ingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retained a nice white colour, a little cream may be added.
Method.—Put the shallots and mushrooms into a saucepan with the stock and ham, and simmer very gently for 30 minutes. Then add the Béchamel. Allow it to come to a boil, and then strain it through a fine sieve; season with the ingredients listed above, and serve very hot. If this sauce doesn't have a nice white color, you can add a little cream.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 10d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, for this amount, 10 pence.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish.
Enough for a medium dish.
Note.—To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added.
Note.—To keep the color of the mushrooms after pickling, put them in water with a bit of lemon juice added.
TO PICKLE LEMONS WITH THE PEEL ON.
455. INGREDIENTS.—6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each quart of vinegar allow 1/2 oz. of cloves, 1/2 oz. of white pepper, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/4 oz. of mace and chilies, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/2 stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic.
455. INGREDIENTS.—6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; for each quart of vinegar, use 1/2 oz. of cloves, 1/2 oz. of white pepper, 1 oz. of crushed ginger, 1/4 oz. of mace and chili peppers, 1 oz. of mustard seeds, 1/2 stick of sliced horseradish, and a few cloves of garlic.
Mode.—Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg; let them remain in it 6 days, stirring them every day; have ready 2 quarts of boiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for 1/4 hour; take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold. Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the above ingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart of vinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar, &c. boiling hot, and tie down with a bladder. They will be fit for use in about 12 months, or rather sooner.
Mode.—Place the lemons in a brine that can float an egg; let them soak for 6 days, stirring daily. Prepare 2 quarts of boiling water, add the lemons, and let them boil for 15 minutes; remove them and let them sit in a cloth until they are completely dry and cool. Boil enough vinegar to cover the lemons, using the same proportions of the other ingredients as mentioned for each quart of vinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour the hot vinegar over them, and seal with a bladder. They will be ready to use in about 12 months, or possibly a bit sooner.
Seasonable.—This should be made from November to April.
Seasonable.—This should be made between November and April.
THE LEMON.—In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not appear to have been at all known, and the Romans only became acquainted with it at a very late period, and then only used it to keep moths from their garments. Its acidity would seem to have been unpleasant to them; and in Pliny's time, at the commencement of the Christian era, this fruit was hardly accepted, otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the effects of poison. Many anecdotes have been related concerning the anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenaeus, a Latin writer, telling us, that on one occasion, two men felt no effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they had previously eaten of this fruit.
THE LEMON.—In the early ages of the world, the lemon didn't seem to be known at all, and the Romans only got to know about it much later. They primarily used it to keep moths away from their clothes. Its sourness appeared to be off-putting to them; and during Pliny's time, at the beginning of the Christian era, this fruit was barely accepted, apart from being recognized as a great antidote against poison. There are many stories about the lemon's anti-venomous properties; Athenaeus, a Latin writer, recounts that on one occasion, two men suffered no effects from dangerous snake bites because they had eaten this fruit beforehand.
TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL.
456. INGREDIENTS.—6 lemons, 1 lb. of fine salt; to each quart of vinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455.
456. INGREDIENTS.—6 lemons, 1 lb. of fine salt; for each quart of vinegar, use the same ingredients as No. 455.
Mode.—Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not to divide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions; place them in a pan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other day; then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt has become perfectly dry; then arrange them in a jar. Pour over sufficient boiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the ingredients mentioned in the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, and in about 9 months they will be fit for use.
Mode.—Peel the lemons and make three cuts in each one without cutting them all the way through. Rub salt well into the cuts, then place them in a pan, where they should stay for a week, turning them every other day. Next, put them in a Dutch oven in front of a clear fire until the salt is completely dry. Then, arrange them in a jar. Pour enough boiling vinegar over them to cover them, along with the ingredients listed in the previous recipe. Seal it tightly, and in about 9 months, they will be ready to use.
Seasonable.—The best time to make this is from November to April.
Seasonable.—The best time to make this is from November to April.
Note.—After this pickle has been made from 4 to 5 months, the liquor may be strained and bottled, and will be found an excellent lemon ketchup.
Note.—After this pickle has been made for 4 to 5 months, the liquid can be strained and bottled, and it will turn out to be an excellent lemon ketchup.
LEMON-JUICE.—Citric acid is the principal component part of lemon-juice, which, in addition to the agreeableness of its flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful. It is likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value. In order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews of ships at sea, a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served out to the men; and by this practice, the disease has almost entirely disappeared. By putting the juice into bottles, and pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it, it may be preserved for a considerable time. Italy and Turkey export great quantities of it in this manner.
LEMON JUICE.—Citric acid is the main ingredient in lemon juice, which, besides having a pleasant taste, is also very refreshing and enjoyable. It is also known for preventing scurvy, which increases its value. To fight the serious effects of scurvy among sailors, a standard ration of lemon juice is given to the crew, and because of this practice, the disease has nearly disappeared. By bottling the juice and adding enough oil to cover it, it can be preserved for a long time. Italy and Turkey export large quantities of lemon juice this way.
LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS.
457. INGREDIENTS.—1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380.
457. INGREDIENTS.—1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380.
Mode.—Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into very small dice. Have ready 3/4 pint of melted butter, made by recipe No. 380; put in the lemon; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour it over the fowls.
Mode.—Slice the lemon into very thin pieces, and then cut those into tiny cubes. Prepare 3/4 pint of melted butter, following recipe No. 380; add the lemon to it; let it simmer gently, but don't let it boil, then pour it over the chickens.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for a pair of large fowls.
Enough for a pair of large birds.
LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, FRICASSEES, &c.
LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR POULTRY, FRICASSEES, ETC.
458. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt to taste.
458. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 pint of cream, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoon of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessert spoon of flour, 1 teacup of white stock; salt to taste.
Mode.—Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 1/2 hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a nice flavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-juice at the moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together.
Mode.—Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with the lemon peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 30 minutes. Then, simmer gently for a few minutes, or until the lemon flavor is nice. Strain it, and add a thickening mix of butter and flour in the proportions mentioned above; stir this in well, and add the lemon juice just before serving. Combine the stock with the cream and add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together.
Time.—Altogether, 3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—Total, 45 minutes. Average cost, 1.5 shillings.
Sufficient, this quantity, for a pair of large boiled fowls.
Sufficient, this amount, for two large boiled chickens.
Note.—Where the expense of the cream is objected to, milk may be substituted for it. In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, or rather more, of flour must be added.
Note.—If the cost of cream is a concern, you can use milk instead. In that case, you'll need to add an extra dessert spoonful, or a bit more, of flour.
[Illustration: LEMON THYME.]
[Illustration: LEMON THYME.]
LEMON THYME.—Two or three tufts of this species of thyme, Thymus citriodorus, usually find a place in the herb compartment of the kitchen-garden. It is a trailing evergreen, is of smaller growth than the common kind (see No. 166), and is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the rind of a lemon. Hence its distinctive name. It is used for some particular dishes, in which the fragrance of the lemon is desired to slightly predominate.
LEMON THYME.—Two or three bunches of this type of thyme, Thymus citriodorus, typically find a spot in the herb section of the kitchen garden. It is a trailing evergreen, smaller than the common variety (see No. 166), and is notable for its scent, which closely resembles the smell of lemon peel. This is what gives it its unique name. It is used in specific dishes where a hint of lemon fragrance is preferred.
LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes,
Soups, &c.).
LEAMINGTON SAUCE (a fantastic sauce for adding flavor to gravies, hashes,
soups, etc.).
(Author's Recipe.)
(Author's Recipe.)
459. INGREDIENTS.—Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of shalots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, 1/2 pint of port wine.
459. INGREDIENTS.—Walnuts. For every quart of walnut juice, use 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 pint of soy sauce, 1 oz. of cayenne pepper, 2 oz. of shallots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, and 1/2 pint of port wine.
Mode.—Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to each quart of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar, soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed.
Mode.—Be very careful when choosing walnuts as soon as they show up in the market; they are more likely to get damaged before they harden and are shelled. Crush them in a mortar until they’re pulp, sprinkle some salt over them, and let them sit like this for two or three days, stirring and turning them occasionally. Squeeze out the juice, and for each quart of walnut liquid, mix in the same amount of vinegar, soy sauce, cayenne, shallots, garlic, and port wine. Grind each ingredient separately in a mortar, then combine them well, and store in small bottles. Make sure to seal the corks tightly.
Seasonable.—This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July.
Seasonable.—This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are available, from early to mid-July.
LEMON BRANDY.
460. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons, 2 oz. of loaf-sugar, 1/4 pint of water.
460. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of brandy, the zest of two small lemons, 2 oz. of granulated sugar, 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of the white pith. Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let them infuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained. Now boil the sugar with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add it to the brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring for boiled custards.
Method.—Peel the lemons thinly, making sure to leave out any of the white pith. Place the peels into a bottle with the brandy, and let them steep for 24 hours, then strain them. Next, boil the sugar with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and once it's cool, mix it with the brandy. A dessert spoonful of this will make a great flavoring for boiled custards.
LEMON RIND OR PEEL.—This contains an essential oil of a very high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a wholesome and agreeable stomachic. It is used, as will be seen by many recipes in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring a number of various dishes. Under the name of CANDIED LEMON-PEEL, it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it becomes an excellent sweetmeat. By the ancient medical philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives, and recommended to weak and delicate persons.
LEMON RIND OR PEEL.—This contains an essential oil with a strong flavor and fragrance, making it a popular and pleasant digestive aid. As seen in many recipes throughout this book, it’s used to flavor a variety of dishes. Known as CANDIED LEMON PEEL, it’s stripped of the pulp and preserved in sugar, turning it into a delicious treat. The ancient medical philosopher Galen and others regarded dried lemon peel as one of the best digestive aids and recommended it for those who are weak or delicate.
LIAISON OF EGGS FOR THICKENING SAUCES.
461. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream.
461. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoons of milk or cream.
Mode.—Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, and strain the whole through a hair-sieve. When the liaison is being added to the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to keep stirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle. It should only just simmer, but not boil.
Mode.—Whisk the egg yolks, then add the milk and strain the mixture through a fine sieve. When incorporating the yolks into the sauce you want to thicken, make sure to keep stirring continuously; otherwise, the eggs will curdle. It should barely simmer, but not boil.
LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR POULTRY.
462. INGREDIENTS.—The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2 pint of melted butter. No. 376.
462. INGREDIENTS.—The liver of a chicken, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2 pint of melted butter. No. 376.
Mode.—Wash the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes; peel the lemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into very small dice; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very fine; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil.
Mode.—Wash the liver and let it boil for a few minutes; peel the lemon very thin, remove the white part and seeds, and cut it into very small dice; finely mince the liver and a small amount of the lemon zest; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly melted butter; season with a little salt, add the diced lemon, heat it gradually, but do not let it boil, so the butter doesn't separate.
Time.—1 minute to simmer.
Time.—1 minute to cook.
Sufficient to serve with a pair of small fowls.
Enough to serve with a couple of small chickens.
LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE FOR POULTRY.
463. INGREDIENTS.—The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376.
463. INGREDIENTS.—The liver of a bird, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376.
Mode.—Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and mince it very fine; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this, with the minced liver, to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; let it just boil; when serve.
Mode.—Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and mince it very finely; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, enough when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this along with the minced liver to 1/2 pint of smooth melted butter; let it just come to a boil; serve when ready.
Time.—1 minute to simmer.
Time.—1 minute to cook.
Sufficient for a pair of small fowls.
Enough for a couple of small birds.
LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c.
LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, etc.
(Very Good.)
(Awesome.)
464. INGREDIENTS.—1 middling-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
464. INGREDIENTS.—1 medium-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 tablespoon of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little ground mace if desired, 2 or 3 tablespoons of cream.
Mode.—Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order to render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces; put the spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mortar with 1/2 oz. of butter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, and cover up till wanted. Make 3/4 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376; put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix the sauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour would immediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed through a sieve without butter) should be saved to garnish with; but as the goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for garnishing the better.
Mode.—Choose a hen lobster, as this is essential for making this sauce as good as it should be. Remove the meat from the shells and cut it into small square pieces; place the roe, found under the lobster's tail, into a mortar with 1/2 oz. of butter and mash it until smooth; strain it through a fine sieve and set aside until needed. Prepare 3/4 pint of melted butter using recipe No. 376; mix in all the ingredients except the lobster meat and blend the sauce well before adding the lobster, as it should maintain its square shape and not be served shredded and ragged. Add the meat, let it heat through completely, but do not let it boil, as this would spoil the color; remember that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance. If serving with turbot or brill, save a bit of the roe (dried and strained without butter) for garnishing; however, since the quality, flavor, and appearance of the sauce heavily depend on using the right amount of roe, it's better to use less for garnishing.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, for this quantity, 2s.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, for this amount, 2p.
Seasonable at any time.
Good for any season.
Sufficient to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6 persons.
Sufficient to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6 people.
Note.—Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answer very well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour will be obtained. Less quantity than the above may be made by using a very small lobster, to which add only 1/2 pint of melted butter, and season as above. Where economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, and the remains of a cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care, be converted into a very good sauce.
Note.—Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, works great for lobster sauce, as it gives a nice white color. You can make a smaller amount by using a very small lobster and just adding 1/2 pint of melted butter, seasoning as mentioned above. If you're looking to save money, you can skip the cream, and the leftover cold lobster from your meal can be transformed with a little effort into a very good sauce.
MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled Fish just before it is sent to Table.
MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, to be added to Broiled Fish just before it is served.
465. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon.
465. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 2 dessert spoonfuls of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon.
Mode.—Work the above ingredients well together, and let them be thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If this is used as a sauce, it may be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to be served with.
Mode.—Combine the ingredients thoroughly and mix them well with a wooden spoon. If you’re using this as a sauce, you can pour it either under or over the meat or fish that it's meant to accompany.
Average cost, for this quantity, 5d.
Average cost, for this quantity, 5d.
Note.—4 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, 2 do. of white stock, No. 107, with 2 oz. of the above maître d'hôtel butter stirred into it, and just allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hot maître d'hôtel sauce.
Note.—4 tablespoons of Béchamel, No. 367, 2 tablespoons of white stock, No. 107, with 2 oz. of the maître d'hôtel butter mentioned above stirred in, and just allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will make an excellent hot maître d'hôtel sauce.
THE MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL.—The house-steward of England is synonymous with the maître d'hôtel of France; and, in ancient times, amongst the Latins, he was called procurator, or major-domo. In Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various articles necessary for the repasts of the day, would return to the spacious kitchen laden with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables, fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on his tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the dining-room, those of the provisions which need no preparation, and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the cooks.
THE MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL.—The house steward in England is the same as the maître d'hôtel in France; and, in ancient times, among the Latins, he was known as a procurator or major-domo. In Rome, the slaves would go out and gather the various items needed for the day's meals and return to the large kitchen loaded with meat, game, fish, vegetables, fruit, etc. Each would set down their basket at the feet of the major-domo, who would check the contents and record them on his tablets, putting items that didn't need any preparation in the pantry next to the dining room, while assigning the others to the cooks for immediate attention.
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, and different Fish.
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, and different Fish.
466. INGREDIENTS.—1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2 shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 large lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
466. INGREDIENTS.—1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry trimmings, 2 shallots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 large lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it the poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf. Pour in the water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a full 1/2 pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in another saucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it is perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butter does not float on the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauce is intended for an entrée, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient thickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover.
Mode.—Place minced ham at the bottom of a saucepan, and add the poultry trimmings (if you don’t have those, use veal), along with the shallots, garlic, and bay leaf. Pour in the water and let everything simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquid reduces to about 1/2 pint. Then strain the gravy, transfer it to another saucepan, and create a thickening by mixing butter and flour in the proportions mentioned above. Stir this mixture into the gravy over a nice, clear flame until it’s completely smooth and somewhat thick, making sure the butter doesn’t float on top. Skim off any excess, add the remaining ingredients, and heat the sauce gradually, but don’t let it boil. If this sauce is meant for an entrée, it should be thick enough to stick to whatever it’s going to cover.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 2d. per pint.
Time—1.5 hours. Average cost, £0.06 per pint.
Sufficient for re-warming the remains of 1/2 calf's head, or a small dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c.
Sufficient for reheating the leftover half of a calf's head, or a small portion of cold flaked turbot, cod, etc.
MAIGRE MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT).
(Made without Meat.)
(Meatless.)
467. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1/2 large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots.
467. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heaping tablespoon of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1/2 large lemon; if desired, 2 minced shallots.
Mode.—Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376; stir in the above ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve.
Mode.—Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, using recipe No. 376; mix in the ingredients listed above and bring to a gentle boil; it's ready to serve when it reaches that point.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 9d. per pint.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 9d. per pint.
MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and other cold Dishes.
MAYONNAISE, a sauce or salad dressing for cold chicken, meat, and other cold dishes.
468. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
468. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoons of salad oil, 4 tablespoons of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoons of cream.
Mode.—Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of pepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, in separate vessels; add them very gradually to the eggs; continue stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consists the secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred too frequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is at hand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are well incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all the time, and it will then be ready for use.
Mode.—Put the egg yolks in a bowl, seasoned with salt and pepper; have the specified amounts of oil and vinegar ready in separate containers; gradually add them to the eggs. Keep stirring and mixing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as this is the key to getting a smooth sauce. It can be stirred as often as needed, and it should be made in a cool place, or if ice is available, mix it over the ice. Once the vinegar and oil are well blended with the eggs, add the stock and cream while continuing to stir, and it will be ready to use.
For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn, pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, Tarragon, or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where they are liked.
For a fish mayonnaise, you can color the sauce with mashed lobster roe. For poultry or meat, if you want some variety, you can add a little parsley juice to enhance its look. You can also replace plain vinegar with cucumber, tarragon, or any other flavored vinegar if preferred.
Average cost, for this quantity, 7d.
Average cost, for this quantity, 7 pence.
Sufficient for a small salad.
Enough for a small salad.
Note.—In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few drops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a large quantity of either at one time. By this means, you can be more certain of the sauce not curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are two essentials for making this sauce good.
Note.—When mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, start with a few drops of oil, then add a few drops of vinegar, and avoid putting in a large amount of either at once. This way, you can be more confident that the sauce won't curdle. Patience and practice, we should mention, are two key elements for making this sauce turn out well.
MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb.
MINT SAUCE, to go with Roast Lamb.
469. INGREDIENTS.—4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar.
469. INGREDIENTS.—4 tablespoons of chopped mint, 2 tablespoons of powdered white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar.
Mode.—Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered, free from grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and put them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours before wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with the flavour of the mint. By many persons, the above proportion of sugar would not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary, we have given the quantity which we have found to suit the general palate.
Method.—Wash the mint, making sure it's young and fresh, and free from grit; remove the leaves from the stems, chop them very finely, and place them in a serving bowl; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir until the sugar dissolves. This sauce tastes better if made 2 or 3 hours before serving, as the vinegar absorbs the mint flavor. Some people might find the amount of sugar too little; however, since tastes vary, we’ve provided the quantity that works best for most people.
Average cost, 3d.
Average cost, $0.03.
Sufficient to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb.
Enough to serve with a medium-sized roast of lamb.
Note.—Where green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may be substituted for it, and will be found very acceptable in early spring.
Note.—If fresh mint is hard to find and unavailable, you can use mint vinegar instead, which is quite nice to have in early spring.
[Illustration: MINT.]
[Illustration: MINT.]
MINT.—The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the Mentha viridis, and is employed in different culinary processes, being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and afterwards withdrawn. It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and forms an ingredient in soups, and sometimes is used in spring salads. It is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic; on which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup. Several of its species grow wild in low situations in the country.
MINT.—The common mint that we grow in our gardens is called Mentha viridis, and it's used in various cooking methods, sometimes boiled with certain dishes and then removed. It has a pleasant aromatic flavor and is included in soups, and is also used in spring salads. It's useful as a digestive aid and helps with cramps; for this reason, it's usually served at the table with pea soup. Several of its species can be found growing wild in low areas of the countryside.
MINT VINEGAR.
470. INGREDIENTS.—Vinegar, mint.
470. INGREDIENTS.—Vinegar, mint.
Mode.—Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the stalks, and fill a bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to them until the bottle is full; cover closely to exclude the air, and let it infuse for a fortnight. Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for use, of which the corks should be sealed.
Mode.—Get some fresh mint, remove the leaves from the stems, and fill a bottle or jar with them. Pour vinegar over the leaves until the bottle is full; seal tightly to keep out the air, and let it steep for two weeks. Then strain the liquid and transfer it into small bottles for use, ensuring the corks are sealed.
Seasonable.—This should be made in June, July, or August.
Seasonable.—This should be made in June, July, or August.
MIXED PICKLE.
(Very Good.)
(Great.)
471. INGREDIENTS.—To each gallon of vinegar allow 1/4 lb. of bruised ginger, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1/4 lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums.
471. INGREDIENTS.—For each gallon of vinegar, use 1/4 lb. of crushed ginger, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1/4 lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard seeds, 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, along with cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, and capsicums.
Mode.—Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put as much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powders to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper, and cayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain; add all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to it. As these come into season, have them gathered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from moisture, put them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided into small bunches. Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season, when there have been added as many of the vegetables as could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat till 12 months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar; and its contents, it may be repeated, must be stirred every morning.
Mode.—Get a large jar with a tight lid and pour in enough vinegar, saving a little to mix with the various powders to make a smooth paste. In a bowl, combine mustard, turmeric, pepper, and cayenne; stir in the vinegar and mix well until there are no lumps. Add all the ingredients to the vinegar and combine thoroughly. Keep this mixture in a warm spot and stir it every morning for a month with a wooden spoon. After a month, it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added. As the vegetables come into season, harvest them on a dry day. Just wipe them with a cloth to remove moisture before adding them to the pickle. For the cauliflowers, make sure to break them into small bunches. Add all these vegetables to the pickle while they are still raw. At the end of the season, after adding as many vegetables as you can find, store the mixture in jars and seal them with bladder. Since none of the ingredients are cooked, this pickle won't be ready to eat until a year has passed. While you're making the pickle, keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar, and remember to stir the contents every morning.
Seasonable.—Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the season arrives for the various vegetables to be picked.
Seasonable.—Prepare the pickle brine in May or June, as the time comes for picking the different vegetables.
MUSHROOM KETCHUP.
472. INGREDIENTS.—To each peck of mushrooms 1/2 lb. of salt; to each quart of mushroom-liquor 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1/2 oz. of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace.
472. INGREDIENTS.—For each peck of mushrooms, use 1/2 lb. of salt; for each quart of mushroom liquid, add 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1/2 oz. of ginger, and 2 blades of crushed mace.
Mode.—Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they are perfectly fresh-gathered when the weather is tolerably dry; for, if they are picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which they are made is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Put a layer of them in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, and then another layer of mushrooms, and so on alternately. Let them remain for a few hours, when break them up with the hand; put them in a nice cool place for 3 days, occasionally stirring and mashing them well, to extract from them as much juice as possible. Now measure the quantity of liquor without straining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, &c. Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepan of boiling water, set it over the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours. Have ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar, and let the whole simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; pour it into a jug, where it should stand in a cool place till the next day; then pour it off into another jug, and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and do not squeeze the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup add a few drops of brandy. Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sediment behind in the jug; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as perfectly to exclude the air. When a very clear bright ketchup is wanted, the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve, or flannel bag, after it has been very gently poured off; if the operation is not successful, it must be repeated until you have quite a clear liquor. It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a few peppercorns.
Method.—Choose fully grown mushroom caps and ensure they are freshly picked when the weather is relatively dry; because if you pick them during heavy rain, the ketchup made from them might go bad and won't last long. Layer them in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over each layer, then add another layer of mushrooms, and continue this process. Let them sit for a few hours, then break them up by hand; place them in a cool spot for 3 days, stirring and mashing them well from time to time to extract as much juice as possible. Now measure the liquid without straining, and for each quart add the corresponding amount of spices, etc. Place everything in a stone jar, seal it tightly, put it in a saucepan of boiling water, set it over the heat, and let it boil for 3 hours. Have a clean saucepan ready; pour in the contents of the jar and let it simmer very gently for 30 minutes; then pour it into a jug and let it sit in a cool place until the next day. After that, pour it into another jug and strain it into very dry clean bottles, without squeezing the mushrooms. Add a few drops of brandy to each pint of ketchup. Be careful not to shake the contents, leaving all the sediment behind in the jug; cork it well, and either seal or wax the cork to completely block out the air. For a very clear bright ketchup, the liquid should be strained through a fine sieve or flannel bag after it has been carefully poured off; if this doesn’t work out perfectly, repeat the process until you achieve a clear liquid. Check it from time to time, and if it starts to spoil, reboil it with some peppercorns.
Seasonable from the beginning of September to the middle of October, when this ketchup should be made.
Seasonable from the beginning of September to the middle of October, when this ketchup should be made.
Note.—This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no trouble should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by reducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, 1 quart must be boiled down to 1 pint. This goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as so little is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy. The sediment may also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer for flavouring thick soups or gravies.
Note.—This flavoring ingredient, if authentic and well-made, is one of the most useful store sauces for experienced cooks, and no effort should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by reducing the liquid to half the amount; for example, 1 quart must be boiled down to 1 pint. This goes further than regular ketchup, as only a small amount is needed to flavor a good quantity of gravy. The sediment can also be bottled for immediate use and will be effective for flavoring thick soups or gravies.
HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS.—The cultivated mushroom, known as Agaricus campestris, may be distinguished from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably having an agreeable smell, which the toadstool has not. When young, mushrooms are like a small round button, both the stalk and head being white. As they grow larger, they expand their heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at first of a pale flesh-colour, but becoming, as they stand longer, dark brown or blackish. Nearly all the poisonous kinds are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures, but seldom grow in woods, where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found.
HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS.—The cultivated mushroom, known as Agaricus campestris, can be identified from other poisonous fungi by its pink or flesh-colored gills and its consistently pleasant smell, which toadstools lack. When young, mushrooms resemble small round buttons, with both the stem and cap being white. As they grow, they gradually flatten out, and the gills underneath start as a pale flesh color but turn dark brown or blackish as they mature. Almost all poisonous varieties are brown and typically have a strong, foul smell. Edible mushrooms are usually found in well-grazed pastures, but rarely grow in woods, where most of the poisonous types are located.
TO DRY MUSHROOMS.
473. Mode.—Wipe them clean, take away the brown part, and peel off the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry place. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly their usual size.
473. Mode.—Clean them thoroughly, remove the brown parts, and peel off the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry in a cool oven, where they will shrink a lot. Store them in paper bags in a dry place. When you need to use them, add them to cold gravy, gradually heat it to a simmer, and you'll find that they will nearly return to their original size.
[Illustration: THE MUSHROOM.]
[Illustration: THE MUSHROOM.]
THE MUSHROOM.—The cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of fungus, which, in England, is considered the best, and is there usually eaten. The tribe, however, is numerous, and a large proportion of them are poisonous; hence it is always dangerous to make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild state. In some parts of Europe, as in Germany, Russia, and Poland, many species grow wild, and are used as food; but in Britain, two only are generally eaten. These are mostly employed for the flavouring of dishes, and are also dried and pickled. CATSUP, or KETCHUP, is made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The young, called buttons, are the best for pickling when in the globular form.
THE MUSHROOM.—The cultivated or garden mushroom is a type of fungus that is regarded as the best in England, where it is commonly consumed. However, the variety is extensive, and many types are poisonous, making it risky to eat mushrooms collected in the wild. In some parts of Europe, like Germany, Russia, and Poland, various species grow wild and are eaten, but in Britain, only two types are generally consumed. These are mostly used to flavor dishes and can also be dried and pickled. Catsup, or ketchup, is made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The young mushrooms, known as buttons, are best for pickling when they are in their round form.
BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Roast Meat, &c.
BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Roast Meat, etc.
474. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1/2 pint of good beef gravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup (if at hand), thickening of butter and flour.
474. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1/2 pint of quality beef gravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup (if available), thickener made from butter and flour.
Mode.—Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over the fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks and wiping them free from grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms cut into small pieces will answer for a brown sauce, when the buttons are not obtainable; put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very gently for about 10 minutes; then add the ketchup, and serve.
Mode.—Pour the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over the heat until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by removing the stems and wiping them clean of grit and dirt; cutting the large flap mushrooms into small pieces will work for a brown sauce when button mushrooms aren't available. Add them to the gravy and let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes; then add the ketchup and serve.
Time.—Rather more than 10 minutes.
Time.—Just over 10 minutes.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
Note.—When fresh mushrooms are not obtainable, the powder No. 477 may be used as a substitute for brown sauce.
Note.—When fresh mushrooms aren't available, you can use powder No. 477 as a substitute for brown sauce.
WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, &c.
WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Chicken, Cutlets, etc.
I.
475. INGREDIENTS.—Rather more than 1/2 pint of button mushrooms, lemon-juice and water, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
475. INGREDIENTS.—Slightly more than 1/2 pint of button mushrooms, lemon juice and water, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1/4 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Turn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice and water, having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them perfectly free from grit. Chop them, and put them in a stewpan with the butter. When the mushrooms are softened, add the Béchamel, and simmer for about 5 minutes; should they, however, not be done enough, allow rather more time. They should not boil longer than necessary, as they would then lose their colour and flavour. Rub the whole through a tammy, and serve very hot. After this, it should be warmed in a bain marie.
Method.—Turn the mushrooms white by soaking them in a mixture of lemon juice and water, first cutting off the stalks and making sure they are completely free of dirt. Chop them and place them in a saucepan with the butter. Once the mushrooms are softened, add the Béchamel and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; if they’re not cooked enough, give them a little more time. They shouldn’t boil for too long, as that would cause them to lose their color and taste. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve and serve it very hot. After this, it should be kept warm in a bain marie.
Time.—Altogether, 1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—Total, 15 minutes. Average cost, £0.05.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
II.
A More Simple Method.
A Simpler Method.
476. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380; 1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, if at hand; cayenne and salt to taste.
476. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380; 1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessert spoonful of mushroom ketchup, if available; cayenne and salt to taste.
Mode.—Make the melted butter by recipe No. 380, and add to it the mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned, and free from grit, and the stalks cut off. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or until they are quite tender. Put in the seasoning and ketchup; let it just boil, when serve.
Mode.—Prepare the melted butter using recipe No. 380, then add the mushrooms, making sure they are cleaned properly, grit-free, and with the stems removed. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or until they are completely tender. Add the seasoning and ketchup; let it come to a boil, then serve.
Time.—Rather more than 10 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Time—A little over 10 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
GROWTH OF THE MUSHROOM AND OTHER FUNGI.—The quick growth of the mushroom and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of time they live, and the numerous dangers they resist while they continue in the dormant state. To spring up "like a mushroom in a night" is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity; and this completely accords with all the observations which have been made concerning this curious class of plants. Mr. Sowerby remarks—"I have often placed specimens of the Phallus caninus by a window over-night, while in the egg-form, and they have been fully grown by the morning."
GROWTH OF THE MUSHROOM AND OTHER FUNGI.—The rapid growth of mushrooms and other fungi is just as amazing as their long lifespan and the many threats they withstand while remaining dormant. To sprout "like a mushroom overnight" is a biblical way to describe speed; this perfectly matches all the observations about this fascinating group of plants. Mr. Sowerby notes—"I have often left specimens of the Phallus caninus by a window overnight, while they were still in their egg stage, and they were fully grown by morning."
MUSHROOM POWDER (a valuable addition to Sauces and Gravies, when fresh
Mushrooms are not obtainable).
MUSHROOM POWDER (a great addition to sauces and gravies when fresh mushrooms aren't available).
477. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1/4 oz. of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper.
477. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1/4 oz. of ground mace, 2 teaspoons of white pepper.
Mode.—Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit and dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all worm-eaten; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but without water; shake them over a clear fire, till all the liquor is dried up, and be careful not to let them burn; arrange them on tins, and dry them in a slow oven; pound them to a fine powder, which put into small dry bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dry place. In using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, when it will merely require one boil-up. The flavour imparted by this means to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly good.
Mode.—Clean the mushrooms by peeling them, wiping off any dirt and grit, removing the black spots, and discarding any that are wormy. Place them in a saucepan with the other ingredients, but do not add any water. Stir them over a low flame until all the moisture evaporates, being careful not to burn them. Spread them out on trays and dry them in a low oven. Once dried, grind them into a fine powder and store it in small dry bottles; seal the bottles tightly with corks and keep them in a dry place. When you use this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, and it will only need to come to a boil once. The flavor this adds to the gravy should be exceptional.
Seasonable.—This should be made in September, or at the beginning of October.
Seasonable.—This should be made in September, or at the beginning of October.
Note.—If the bottles in which it is stored away are not perfectly dry, as, also the mushroom powder, it will keep good but a very short time.
Note.—If the bottles in which it is stored are not completely dry, as well as the mushroom powder, it will only stay good for a very short time.
PICKLED MUSHROOMS.
478. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to each quart of mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 oz. of ground pepper, salt to taste.
478. INGREDIENTS.—Enough vinegar to cover the mushrooms; for each quart of mushrooms, add 2 blades of crushed mace, 1 oz. of ground pepper, and salt to taste.
Mode.—Choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling, and rub off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks; if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the black ones, as they are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, with pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake them well over a clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is all dried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let it simmer for 1 minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place; they will remain good for a length of time, and are generally considered delicious.
Mode.—Select some nice young button mushrooms for pickling, and rub off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, then cut off the stems. If they are very large, remove the red part inside and discard the black ones, as they are too old. Place them in a saucepan, sprinkle salt over them along with ground mace and pepper in the same amount; shake them well over a clear fire until the liquid starts to flow, and keep them there until it all dries up again. Then add enough vinegar to cover them; let it simmer for 1 minute, and store them in stone jars for later use. Once cooled, seal with a bladder and keep in a dry place; they will stay good for a long time and are usually considered delicious.
Seasonable.—Make this the same time as ketchup, from the beginning of September to the middle of October.
Seasonable.—Prepare this at the same time as ketchup, from early September to mid-October.
NATURE OF THE MUSHROOM.—Locality has evidently a considerable influence on the nature of the juices of the mushroom; for it has been discovered, after fatal experience, that some species, which are perfectly harmless when raised in open meadows and pasturelands, become virulently poisonous when they happen to grow in contact with stagnant water or putrescent animal and vegetable substances. What the precise nature of the poison in fungi may be, has not been accurately ascertained.
NATURE OF THE MUSHROOM.—Location clearly has a significant impact on the properties of mushroom juices; it has been found, often with deadly consequences, that some species, which are completely safe when grown in open fields and pastures, can become extremely toxic when they grow near stagnant water or decaying animal and plant matter. The exact nature of the poison in fungi has not been precisely determined.
A VERY RICH AND GOOD MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Fowls or Rabbits.
A REALLY DELICIOUS AND RICH MUSHROOM SAUCE, perfect for serving with chicken or rabbit.
479. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of mushroom-buttons, salt to taste, a little grated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, flour to thicken.
479. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of mushroom caps, salt to taste, a little grated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, flour to thicken.
Mode.—Rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt, to take off the skin; cut off the stalks, and put them in a stewpan with the above ingredients, previously kneading together the butter and flour; boil the whole for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour some of the sauce over the fowls, and the remainder serve in a tureen.
Mode.—Rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt to remove the skin; cut off the stalks and place them in a saucepan with the above ingredients, having first mixed the butter and flour together. Boil everything for about ten minutes, stirring constantly. Pour some of the sauce over the chickens, and serve the rest in a serving dish.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 2s.
Duration.—10 minutes. Average cost, 2 shillings.
Sufficient to serve with a pair of fowls.
Sufficient to serve with a couple of chickens.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
HOW TO MIX MUSTARD.
480. INGREDIENTS.—Mustard, salt, and water.
480. INGREDIENTS.—Mustard, salt, and water.
Mode.—Mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled and allowed to cool; hot water destroys its essential properties, and raw cold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, with a small pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiled water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix well, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon, as well-mixed mustard should be perfectly free from these. The mustard-pot should not be more than half full, or rather less if it will not be used in a day or two, as it is so much better when freshly mixed.
Method.—Mix mustard with water that has been boiled and cooled; hot water destroys its essential properties, and cold raw water may cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, add a small pinch of salt, and gradually mix in enough boiled water so it drips from the spoon without being runny. Stir and mix well, and use the back of a spoon to break down any lumps, as well-mixed mustard should be perfectly smooth. The mustard pot should not be more than half full, or even less if it won't be used in a day or two, as it's much better when freshly mixed.
TARTAR MUSTARD.
481. INGREDIENTS.—Horseradish vinegar, cayenne, 1/2 a teacupful of mustard.
481. INGREDIENTS.—Horseradish vinegar, cayenne pepper, 1/2 a teacup of mustard.
Mode.—Have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the above proportion of mustard; put the mustard in a cup, with a slight seasoning of cayenne; mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar, adding this a little at a time; rub down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear, and do not let it be too thin. Mustard may be flavoured in various ways, with Tarragon, shalot, celery, and many other vinegars, herbs, spices, &c.; but this is more customary in France than in England, as there it is merely considered a "vehicle of flavours," as it has been termed.
Mode.—Have enough horseradish vinegar ready to mix with the mustard in the right amount; put the mustard in a cup and add a pinch of cayenne pepper; mix it thoroughly with the vinegar, adding it gradually; use the back of a spoon to smooth out any lumps that may form, and make sure it’s not too runny. Mustard can be flavored in different ways, using tarragon, shallots, celery, and various other vinegars, herbs, spices, etc.; however, this is more common in France than in England, where it’s often seen as just a "vehicle for flavors," as it has been called.
PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a very good Substitute for Capers)
PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a great alternative to capers)
482. INGREDIENTS.—To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of salt, 6 peppercorns, nasturtiums.
482. INGREDIENTS.—For each pint of vinegar, add 1 oz. of salt, 6 peppercorns, and nasturtiums.
Mode.—Gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day, and wipe them clean with a cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with vinegar, salt, and pepper in the above proportion. If you cannot find enough ripe to fill a bottle, cork up what you have got until you have some more fit: they may be added from day to day. Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin the tops. They will be fit for use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way is to make them one season for the next.
Mode.—Pick the nasturtium pods on a dry day, and clean them with a cloth; place them in a dry glass bottle, along with vinegar, salt, and pepper in the proportions mentioned above. If you can't gather enough ripe pods to fill a bottle, cork what you have until you find more that are ready; you can add to it day by day. Seal the bottles and secure the tops with rosin or another sealant. They will be ready to use in 10 to 12 months, and it’s best to prepare them in one season for the next.
Seasonable.—Look for nasturtium-pods from the end of July to the end of August.
Seasonable.—Check for nasturtium pods from late July to the end of August.
[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS.]
[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS.]
NASTURTIUMS.—The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by naturalists Tropoeolum, and which sometimes goes by the name of Indian cress, came originally from Peru, but was easily made to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to salads, to which they certainly add a pretty appearance. When the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as described in the above recipe.
NASTURTIUMS.—The lovely nasturtium plant, known scientifically as Tropoeolum and sometimes referred to as Indian cress, originally comes from Peru but grows easily in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers have a slightly spicy flavor, and many people think they make a great addition to salads, enhancing their appearance. After the stunning blossoms, which can be used very effectively for garnish, have faded, the fruit is used as described in the recipe above.
FRENCH ONION SAUCE, or SOUBISE.
French onion sauce, or soubise.
483. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf, seasoning to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham.
483. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1 bay leaf, seasoning to taste of ground mace and cayenne pepper, 6 onions, a small piece of ham.
Mode.—Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them in a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham, cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmer them until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them through a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon, and put them to 1/2 pint of Béchamel; keep stirring over the fire until it boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it to taste.
Method.—Peel the onions and cut them in half. Place them in a saucepan with just enough water to cover them, and add the bay leaf, ham, cayenne, and mace. Make sure to keep the lid tightly closed, and let them simmer until they are tender. Once they are done, remove them and drain thoroughly. Pass them through a strainer or sieve (an old one works for this) using a wooden spoon, and mix them with 1/2 pint of Béchamel. Keep stirring over the heat until it boils, then serve. If it needs more seasoning, adjust it to taste.
Time.—3/4 hour to boil the onions.
Time.—45 minutes to boil the onions.
Average cost, 10d. for this quantity.
Average cost, 10p. for this quantity.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish.
Enough for a medium dish.
WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c.
WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, etc.
484. INGREDIENTS.—9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint of melted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, or rather more.
484. INGREDIENTS.—9 large onions, or 12 medium-sized ones, 1 pint of melted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoon of salt, or a bit more.
Mode.—Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for 1/4 hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and let them boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change the water after they have been boiling for 1/4 hour. Drain them thoroughly, chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 380, and when that boils, put in the onions, with a seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready to serve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion sauce will be delicious.
Mode.—Peel the onions and soak them in water with a bit of salt added to keep them white, letting them sit for 15 minutes. Then place them in a saucepan, cover with water, and boil until soft. If the onions are very pungent, change the water after they've been boiling for 15 minutes. Drain them well, chop them up, and push them through a strainer or sieve. Prepare 1 pint of melted butter following recipe No. 380, and when it starts to boil, add the onions along with a pinch of salt; stir until it simmers, and then it will be ready to serve. If you follow these steps closely, this onion sauce will be delicious.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour, to boil the onions.
Time.—Boil the onions for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Average cost, 9d. per pint.
Average cost, 9d. per pint.
Sufficient to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit.
Sufficient to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton or boiled rabbit.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
Note.—To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions, which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to improve its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may be cooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should be kept expressly for onions: an old one answers the purpose, as it is liable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations.
Note.—To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions, which are available from early September to Christmas. Adding 2 or 3 tablespoons of cream just before serving can significantly improve its appearance. Small young onions can be cooked whole and served in melted butter. You should keep a sieve or tammy specifically for onions: an old one works well, as it tends to hold onto the flavor and scent, which would be extremely unpleasant in delicate dishes.
BROWN ONION SAUCE.
485. INGREDIENTS.—6 large onions, rather more than 1/2 pint of good gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
485. INGREDIENTS.—6 large onions, just over 1/2 pint of good gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with the above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do not get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add the seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back in the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve.
Mode.—Slice and fry the onions until they are a light brown in a saucepan, using the specified amount of butter, stirring constantly to prevent them from burning. Once they reach a nice color, add the gravy and let them simmer gently until tender. Next, skim off any excess fat, add the seasoning, and strain everything through a sieve or tammy. Return it to the saucepan to warm, and once it starts to boil, serve.
Time.—Altogether 1 hour.
Time.—Total 1 hour.
Seasonable from August to March.
In season from August to March.
Note.—Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine.
Note.—If you prefer a strong flavor, add 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup or a small amount of port wine.
HISTORY OF THE ONION.—It is not supposed that any variety of the onion is indigenous to Britain, as when the large and mild roots imported from warmer climates, have been cultivated in these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and sweetness. It is therefore most likely that this plant was first introduced into England from continental Europe, and that it originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (See No. 139.)
HISTORY OF THE ONION.—It is believed that no variety of the onion is native to Britain, as when the large and mild roots brought in from warmer climates are grown in these islands for a few years, they lose both size and sweetness. Therefore, it’s most likely that this plant was first brought to England from mainland Europe, originally coming from a southern climate, and has gradually adapted to a colder environment. (See No. 139.)
PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly Good).
PICKLED ONIONS (an easy method that's really great).
486. INGREDIENTS.—Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper.
486. INGREDIENTS.—Pickling onions; for each quart of vinegar, use 2 teaspoons of allspice and 2 teaspoons of whole black pepper.
Mode.—Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, with the fingers, take off the thin outside skin; then, with a silver knife (steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions), remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, put them in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper and allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has its share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most simple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They should be eaten within 6 or 8 months after being done, as the onions are liable to become soft.
Mode.—Gather the onions when they are completely dry and ripe. Use your fingers to peel off the thin outer skin; then, with a silver knife (don’t use steel, as it ruins the onions’ color), remove another layer of skin until the onion looks clear. Have some very dry bottles or jars ready, and as you peel them, place the onions inside. Pour enough cold vinegar over them to fully submerge, adding pepper and allspice as mentioned, ensuring each jar has its share of these ingredients. Seal with a bladder and store them in a dry place; in two weeks, they will be ready to use. This is a simple and delicious recipe, resulting in nice, crisp onions. They should be eaten within 6 to 8 months, as the onions can become soft over time.
Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of August.
In season from mid-July to the end of August.
PICKLED ONIONS.
487. INGREDIENTS.—1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; to each 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/4 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of whole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. of mace.
487. INGREDIENTS.—1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; for each 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of crushed ginger, 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of bruised whole nutmeg, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. of mace.
Mode.—Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when they are quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them; make a strong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions, and change this, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the last brine they were put in. Then take the outside skin off, and put them into a tin saucepan capable of holding them all, as they are always better done together. Now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onions were in, and pour this to them; to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt, put them over the fire, and watch them very attentively. Keep constantly turning the onions about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to the top, and vice versâ; and let the milk and water run through the holes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if they do, they will be good for nothing; and they should be quite transparent. Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, be particular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander, into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to keep in the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times double; put the onions on it when quite hot, and over them an old piece of blanket; cover this closely over them, to keep in the steam. Let them remain till the next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow and shrivelled; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as white as snow. Put them in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining ingredients, boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan. Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them stand till the following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars or bottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the top of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let them stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit for use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without the least softness, and will keep good many months.
Method.—Gather the onions, ensuring they're not too small, when they are completely dry and ripe; wipe off any dirt, but don't peel them. Prepare a strong solution of salt and water, and soak the onions in it, changing the solution morning and night for 3 days. Save the last brine they were in. Then remove the outer skin and place them into a tin saucepan that can hold all of them, as they are always better cooked together. Now take equal amounts of milk and the last saltwater solution the onions were in, and pour it over them; add 2 large spoonfuls of salt. Put them over the fire and watch them closely. Keep stirring the onions with a wooden skimmer, moving those at the bottom to the top, and vice versa; let the milk and water pass through the holes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil; if they do, they’ll be ruined, and they should turn out quite transparent. Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, being careful not to break them. Then have a pan ready with a colander, into which you’ll turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to retain the steam. Lay an old cloth folded 2 or 3 times on a table; place the hot onions on it and cover them with an old blanket; wrap this tightly around them to trap the steam. Let them sit until the next day, when they will be cold and look yellow and shriveled; remove the shriveled skins, which should be as white as snow. Put the onions in a pan, prepare a pickle with vinegar and the remaining ingredients, boil it all together, and pour it hot over the onions in the pan. Cover tightly to keep in all the steam, and let it sit until the next day, when it will be completely cool. Transfer them to jars or bottles tightly sealed, with a tablespoonful of the best olive oil on top of each jar or bottle. Seal them with bladder, and store them in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be ready to use. They should be beautifully white, crisp, without any softness, and will keep for many months.
Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of August.
In season from mid-July to the end of August.
ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c.
ORANGE GRAVY for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, etc.
488. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or 4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand, the juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass of port wine.
488. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or 4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few basil leaves, if available, the juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass of port wine.
Mode.—Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock, orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for 1/4 hour or rather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel. Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients; let the whole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot in a tureen which should have a cover to it.
Method.—Place the sliced onion in a saucepan with the stock, orange peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for about 15 minutes, or a bit longer if the gravy doesn’t taste strong enough from the peel. Strain it, then add the remaining ingredients to the gravy; heat everything through, and once it's just about to boil, serve it very hot in a covered tureen.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total 30 minutes.
Sufficient for a small tureen.
Sufficient for a small bowl.
OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey.
OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey.
489. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of chopped suet or butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters.
489. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1.5 oz. of chopped suet or butter, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 1/4 saltspoon of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters.
Mode.—Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large lumps remain; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be very finely minced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into small pieces. Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and seasoning; mix all these well together, until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled. Open and beard the oysters, chop them, but not too small, and add them to the other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, work altogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The turkey should not be stuffed too full: if there should be too much forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry them, and use them as a garnish.
Method.—Grate the bread very finely, making sure there are no large clumps left; put it in a bowl with the suet, which should be minced very finely, or if using butter, cut it into small pieces. Add the herbs, also chopped as finely as possible, along with the seasoning; mix everything together until the ingredients are well combined. Open the oysters, remove the beards, chop them, but not too finely, and add them to the other ingredients. Beat the eggs and use your hands to mix everything together until it's smooth. The turkey should not be overstuffed: if there is too much filling, roll it into balls, fry them, and use them as a garnish.
Sufficient for 1 turkey.
Enough for 1 turkey.
OYSTER KETCHUP.
490. INGREDIENTS.—Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint of sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of pounded mace.
490. INGREDIENTS.—Enough oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint of sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of ground mace.
Mode.—Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a pint measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the sherry; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt, cayenne, and mace; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes, and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed.
Method.—Get the freshest oysters possible and open enough to fill a pint measure; keep the juice, and scald the oysters in it with the sherry; strain the oysters, and place them in a bowl with the salt, cayenne, and mace; mash everything until it turns into a paste, then mix it into the juice where they were scalded; boil it again for five minutes, and skim off the surface; strain the whole mixture through a sieve, and once it's cool, bottle it and seal it tightly. The bottle caps should be sealed.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
Note.—Cider may be substituted for the sherry.
Note.—You can use cider instead of sherry.
PICKLED OYSTERS.
491. INGREDIENTS.—100 oysters; to each 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns.
491. INGREDIENTS.—100 oysters; for each 1/2 pint of vinegar, add 1 blade of crushed mace, 1 strip of lemon peel, and 12 black peppercorns.
Mode.—Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in a saucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10 minutes, very gently; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar, and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as follows:—Measure the oyster-liquor; add to it the same quantity of vinegar, with mace, lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion, and boil it for 5 minutes; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie them down very closely, as contact with the air spoils them.
Mode.—Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in a saucepan, and let them simmer in their own juice for about 10 minutes on low heat; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar, and cover them, when cool, with a pickle made as follows:—Measure the oyster liquid; add to it the same amount of vinegar, along with mace, lemon peel, and pepper in the same proportions, and boil it for 5 minutes; when cool, pour it over the oysters, and seal them tightly, as exposure to air spoils them.
Seasonable from September to April.
Seasonal from September to April.
Note.—Put this pickle away in small jars; because directly one is opened, its contents should immediately be eaten, as they soon spoil. The pickle should not be kept more than 2 or 3 months.
Note.—Store this pickle in small jars; once you open one, you should eat its contents right away, as they spoil quickly. The pickle shouldn’t be kept for more than 2 or 3 months.
OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c.
Oyster sauce, to serve with fish, boiled chicken, etc.
492. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380.
492. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380.
Mode.—Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor; strain it into a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and let them just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump. Take them off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin. Strain the liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make 1/2 pint altogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the melted butter is ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be previously bearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice. Set it by the side of the fire to get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, or the oysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead of milk makes this sauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne, or anchovy sauce; but, as we have before stated, a plain sauce should be plain, and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences; therefore we recommend that the above directions be implicitly followed, and no seasoning added.
Mode.—Carefully open the oysters and save their juice; strain it into a clean saucepan (a lined one works best), add the oysters, and let them come just to a boil, when they should look plump. Remove them from the heat immediately and transfer everything into a bowl. Strain the juice from the oysters, and mix enough milk to make a total of 1/2 pint, then follow the instructions in No. 380. When the melted butter is ready and very smooth, add the oysters, which should be cleaned beforehand if you want the sauce to taste really good. Set it aside near the fire to heat thoroughly, but do not let it boil, or the oysters will toughen. Using cream instead of milk makes this sauce incredibly delicious. If desired, you can add cayenne or anchovy sauce, but as stated before, a plain sauce should be simple and not overwhelmed by strong flavors; so we recommend following the above instructions closely and not adding any seasoning.
Average cost for this quantity, 2s.
Average cost for this amount, 2s.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1 person, unless the party is very large.
Sufficient for 6 people. Never serve fewer than 6 oysters per person, unless the group is really large.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
A more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity of oysters, and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce: this may answer the purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a mode of making this delicious adjunct to fish, &c.
A more budget-friendly sauce can be made by using fewer oysters and not preparing them before adding them to the sauce. This might work, but we can't really recommend it as a way to make this tasty addition to fish, etc.
PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Fowls, &c.
PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Chickens, etc.
493. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376.
493. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376.
Mode.—Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly salted, and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which has been previously washed and tied together in a bunch; let it boil for 5 minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the above quantity in a tureen; pour over it 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed, and serve.
Mode.—Put a small amount of lightly salted water in a saucepan, and when it boils, add a good bunch of parsley that has been washed and tied together. Let it boil for 5 minutes, then drain it, chop the leaves very finely, and place them in a serving bowl. Pour over 1/2 pint of smooth melted butter; stir once to mix everything well, and serve.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the parsley. Average cost, 4d.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the parsley. Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient for 1 large fowl; allow rather more for a pair.
Enough for 1 large chicken; allow a bit more for a pair.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley-leaves are not to be had, when the following will be found an excellent substitute:—Tie up a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it for 10 minutes in a small quantity of water; use this water to make the melted butter with, and throw into it a little boiled spinach, minced rather fine, which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley.
Note.—Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley leaves can be hard to find. In that case, here's a great substitute: Tie a small amount of parsley seeds in a piece of muslin and boil it for 10 minutes in a little water. Use this water to make the melted butter, and add some finely minced boiled spinach, which will look similar to parsley.
[Illustration: PARSLEY.]
[Illustration: PARSLEY.]
PARSLEY.—If there be nothing new under the sun, there are, at any rate, different uses found for the same thing; for this pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from mythological narrative, to adorn the head of a hero, no less than Hercules; and now—was ever fall so great?—we moderns use it in connection with the head of—a calf. According to Homer's "Iliad," warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny acquaints us with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt, some say, first produced this herb; thence it was introduced, by some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians found it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles. (See No. 123.)
PARSLEY.—If there's nothing new under the sun, at least there are different ways to use the same thing; this lovely aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from mythology, to crown the head of a hero, none other than Hercules; and now—what a fall from grace!—we moderns use it in relation to the head of—a calf. According to Homer's "Iliad," warriors fed their chariot horses parsley; and Pliny informs us that, as a sign of mourning, it was used on the funeral tables of the Romans. Some say Egypt was the first to produce this herb; from there, it was brought by an unknown traveler to Sardinia, where the Carthaginians found it and introduced it to the people of Marseilles. (See No. 123.)
FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing.
Fried parsley, for garnish.
494. INGREDIENTS.—Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping.
494. INGREDIENTS.—Parsley, hot lard or clarified fat.
Mode.—Gather some young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in a cloth; put it into the wire basket of which we have given an engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two. Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before the fire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp; and the quicker it is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out with a slice, dry it before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp, it will be ready for use.
Method.—Take some young parsley; wash it, pick it, and dry it thoroughly with a cloth; place it in the wire basket we've illustrated, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two. As soon as it's done, lift out the basket and let it sit in front of the fire so the parsley can become completely crisp; the faster you fry it, the better. If your kitchen doesn't have the above-mentioned basket, toss the parsley into the frying pan, and when it's crisp, lift it out with a spatula, dry it in front of the fire, and when it's totally crisp, it will be ready to use.
[Illustration: WIRE BASKET.]
[Illustration: WIRE BASKET.]
WIRE BASKET.—For this recipe, a wire basket, as shown in the annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides that described above.
WIRE BASKET.—For this recipe, a wire basket, as illustrated in the attached engraving, will be very helpful. It's super lightweight and convenient, and can be used for other similar tasks beyond what is mentioned above.
PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes.
PARSLEY JUICE, for Coloring various Dishes.
495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly in a cloth; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted, and put the juice in a teacup or small jar; place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and warm it on the bain marie principle just long enough to take off its rawness; let it drain, and it will be ready for colouring.
495. Get some fresh young parsley; wash it and dry it completely with a cloth; crush the leaves in a mortar until all the juice is extracted, and pour the juice into a teacup or small jar; put this in a saucepan of boiling water, and heat it using the bain marie method just long enough to remove the raw taste; let it drain, and it will be ready for coloring.
TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER.
496. Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt; put it into boiling water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3 minutes; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of the fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour over it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes.
496. Use freshly picked parsley for preservation, and wash it thoroughly to remove any grit and dirt. Put it into boiling water that has been lightly salted and well skimming, and let it boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of the fire so it dries quickly. Store it in a very dry place in bottles, and when you need to use it, pour a little warm water over it and let it sit for about 5 minutes.
Seasonable.—This may be done at any time between June and October.
Seasonable.—This can be done anytime from June to October.
AN EXCELLENT PICKLE.
497. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of medium-sized onions, cucumbers, and sauce-apples; 1-1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 3/4 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry; vinegar.
497. INGREDIENTS.—Equal amounts of medium-sized onions, cucumbers, and sauce apples; 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, 3/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, 1 wineglass full of soy sauce, 1 wineglass full of sherry; vinegar.
Mode.—Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint stone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in alternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the above proportion; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar. It will be fit for use the day it is made.
Mode.—Slice enough cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint stone jar, making sure to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in alternating layers, sprinkling salt and cayenne as you go. Pour in the soy sauce and wine, and top it off with vinegar. It will be ready to use the same day it's made.
Seasonable in August and September.
Seasonal in August and September.
[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber to the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." Mrs. Beeton, not having tested it, cannot vouch for its excellence; but the contributor spoke very highly in its favour.]
[This recipe was sent to the editor of this work by a reader of the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." Mrs. Beeton, not having tried it herself, can't guarantee its quality; but the contributor praised it highly.]
SOY.—This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes from Japan, where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant called Dolichos Soja. The Chinese also manufacture it; but that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of statements have been made respecting the very general adulteration of this article in England, and we fear that many of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable flavour, thick, and of a clear brown colour.
SOY.—This is a sauce often used for fish and comes from Japan, where it's made from the seeds of a plant called Dolichos Soja. The Chinese also produce it, but the Japanese version is said to be the best. There have been many claims about widespread adulteration of this product in England, and we worry that a lot of them are true. When it's authentic, it has a pleasant flavor, is thick, and has a clear brown color.
PICKLED RED CABBAGE.
498. INGREDIENTS.—Red cabbages, salt and water; to each quart of vinegar, 1/2 oz. of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, and, when liked, a little cayenne.
498. INGREDIENTS.—Red cabbages, salt, and water; for each quart of vinegar, use 1/2 oz. of crushed ginger, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, and, if desired, a pinch of cayenne.
Mode.—Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thin slices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt, covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn into a colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean soft cloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in the above proportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be fit for use in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time, the cabbage is liable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of a good red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made. A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to the appearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place.
Mode.—Remove the outer decayed leaves from a nice red cabbage, cut it into quarters, take out the stalks, and slice it very thinly across. Place these on a dish and sprinkle them generously with salt, covering them with another dish. Let them sit for 24 hours, then transfer to a colander to drain, and if needed, gently wipe with a clean soft cloth. Put them in a jar; boil the vinegar with spices in the same proportions mentioned above, and once cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be ready to use in a week or two, but if stored for a very long time, the cabbage might become soft and discolored. To keep it nice and crisp with a good red color, it should be eaten almost immediately after it's made. Adding a little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar enhances the appearance of this pickle. Seal with bladder and store in a dry place.
Seasonable in July and August, but the pickle will be much more crisp if the frost has just touched the leaves.
In-season in July and August, but the pickle will be much crisper if the frost has just touched the leaves.
RED CABBAGE.—This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to that of the white, but is of a bluish-purple colour, which, however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white vegetable that the Germans make their sauer kraut; a dish held in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Vaderland, but which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its numerous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally recommended for pickling.
RED CABBAGE.—This plant, as it grows, is shaped similarly to the white cabbage, but has a bluish-purple color that turns red when it comes in contact with acid, just like all vegetable blues. The Germans mainly use the white cabbage to make their sauer kraut; a dish that is highly valued by the people of Germany, but usually takes a while for outsiders to truly appreciate its many benefits. The large red Dutch variety is the type most often suggested for pickling.
PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE.
499. INGREDIENTS.—1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter, 1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste.
499. INGREDIENTS.—1 wineglass of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter, 1 glass of Madeira, powdered sugar to taste.
Mode.—Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy and the butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and the sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy, with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen. This is a very rich and excellent sauce.
Mode.—Place the powdered sugar in a bowl, along with some of the brandy and the butter; let it sit by the fire until it becomes warm and the sugar and butter are melted; then mix in the remaining brandy along with the Madeira. You can either pour it over the pudding or serve it in a serving dish. This is a very rich and delicious sauce.
Average cost, 1s. 3d. for this quantity.
Average cost, 1 shilling and 3 pence for this quantity.
Sufficient for a pudding made for 6 persons.
Enough for a pudding made for 6 people.
QUIN'S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce.
QUIN'S SAUCE, a great fish sauce.
500. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, 1/4 pint of soy, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne.
500. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup, 12 anchovies, 12 shallots, 1/4 pint of soy sauce, 1/2 teaspoon of cayenne pepper.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously chopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes, strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use: the corks should be well sealed to exclude the air.
Mode.—Place all the ingredients into a saucepan, having finely chopped the shallots and anchovies beforehand; simmer for 15 minutes, strain, and, once cooled, bottle for later use: make sure the corks are tightly sealed to keep out the air.
Time.—1/4 hour.
Time.—15 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce.
RAVIGOTTE, a French salad dressing.
Mons. Ude's Recipe.
Mons. Ude's Recipe.
501. INGREDIENTS.—1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of cavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of Reading sauce, a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of thick Béchamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream; salt and pepper to taste.
501. INGREDIENTS.—1 teaspoon of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoon of cavice, 1 teaspoon of chili vinegar, 1 teaspoon of Reading sauce, a piece of butter about the size of an egg, 3 tablespoons of thick Béchamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 3 tablespoons of cream; salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it to all the other ingredients; after mixing the whole together thoroughly, the sauce will be ready for use.
Mode.—Blanch the parsley, chop the leaves very finely, and mix it with all the other ingredients; after thoroughly combining everything, the sauce will be ready to use.
Average cost, for this quantity, 10d.
Average cost, for this quantity, 10 pence.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
READING SAUCE.
502. INGREDIENTS.—2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. of shalots, 1 quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy, 1/2 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/2 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, 1/2 oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves.
502. INGREDIENTS.—2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. of shallots, 1 quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy sauce, 1/2 oz. of crushed ginger, 1/2 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard seeds, 1 anchovy, 1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 1/4 oz. of dried bay leaves.
Mode.—Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar with the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil until reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire, and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well as you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for 1/2 hour; cover closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jar and add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, when strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The above quantities will make 1/2 gallon.
Method.—Crush the shallots in a mortar and put them in a stone jar with the walnut liquor; place it in front of the fire and let it boil until it reduces to 2 pints. Then, in another jar, combine all the ingredients except the bay leaves, ensuring they are well crushed to fully extract the flavor; put this jar in front of the fire and let it boil for 1 hour, or a bit longer. Once both jars are cooked enough, mix their contents together, stirring well as you combine them, and let them simmer for 30 minutes; cover tightly and let it sit for 24 hours in a cool place. After that, open the jar and add the bay leaves; let it sit closed for another week, then strain it through a flannel bag, and it will be ready to use. The quantities above will make 1/2 gallon.
Time.—Altogether, 3 hours.
Time.—Total: 3 hours.
Seasonable.—This sauce may be made at any time.
Seasonable.—You can make this sauce anytime.
REMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING.
Remoulade or French salad dressing.
503. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon or plain vinegar.
503. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoon of prepared mustard, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, 1 tablespoon of tarragon or plain vinegar.
Mode.—Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about 1/4 hour, put them into cold water, and let them remain in it for a few minutes; strip off the shells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly; add to them, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, keeping all well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon. Put in the oil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed with the other ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well, when it will be ready for use. This sauce should not be curdled; and to prevent this, the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time, and not to cease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased or diminished according to taste, as many persons would prefer a smaller proportion of the former ingredient.
Method.—Boil 3 eggs hard for about 15 minutes, put them in cold water, and let them sit for a few minutes; peel the shells, place the yolks in a bowl, and mash them until smooth. Gradually add the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, stirring continuously with the back of a wooden spoon. Slowly drizzle in the oil, and once it’s fully combined with the other ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg and mix well until it's ready to use. Be careful not to let the sauce curdle; the key is to mix a little of everything at a time without stopping the stirring. You can adjust the amounts of oil and vinegar based on your preference, as some people might want less oil.
GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain, and colouring with a little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey's sauce, or Chili vinegar, may be added at pleasure.
GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of regular vinegar, and it gets its color from a bit of parsley juice, No. 495. You can add Harvey's sauce, or chili vinegar, as desired.
Time.—1/4 hour to boil the eggs.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the eggs.
Average cost, for this quantity, 7d.
Average cost, for this quantity, 7d.
Sufficient for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons.
Sufficient for a salad made for 4 to 6 people.
[Illustration: TARRAGON.]
[Illustration: TARRAGON.]
TARRAGON.—The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as Artemisia dracunculus, are much used in France as a flavouring ingredient for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known as tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary, and does not seed in France.
TARRAGON.—The leaves of this plant, known to scientists as Artemisia dracunculus, are widely used in France as a flavoring for salads. It's also used to make tarragon vinegar, which the French mix with their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary and doesn’t seed in France.
SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Pork.
SAGE AND ONION STUFFING for Geese, Ducks, and Pork.
504. INGREDIENTS.—4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
504. INGREDIENTS.—4 large onions, 10 sage leaves, 1/4 lb. of breadcrumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
Mode.—Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, put in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chop both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves should be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in the manner just stated, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then, however, is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would be very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequently added to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg may be dispensed with.
Mode.—Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer for about 5 minutes or a little longer, and just before you take them out, add the sage leaves for a minute or two to soften their flavor. Chop both very finely, then add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and mix everything together with the yolk of an egg; this will make the stuffing ready to use. It should be seasoned well, and the sage leaves should be chopped very finely. Many cooks skip parboiling the onions as mentioned and use them raw instead. However, the stuffing won't be as mild, and for many people, its strong flavor might be quite off-putting. When made for goose, a portion of the bird's liver, simmered for a few minutes and finely minced, is often added to this stuffing; and if you're looking to save money, you can leave out the egg.
Time.—Rather more than 5 minutes to simmer the onions.
Time.—Simmer the onions for a little over 5 minutes.
Average cost, for this quantity, 4d.
Average cost, for this quantity, 4 pence.
Sufficient for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.
Sufficient for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.
505. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.—Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme not broken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them; when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry without sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.
505. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.—Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 whole leaves of lemon thyme, and boil them in a pot with enough water to cover them; once done, strain them through a sieve, discarding the sage and thyme; then mix in enough mashed potatoes to make it dry enough that it doesn’t stick to your hands; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.
SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).
SALAD DRESSING (Awesome).
I.
506. INGREDIENTS.—1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste.
506. INGREDIENTS.—1 teaspoon of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons of salad oil, 4 tablespoons of milk, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste.
Mode.—Put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar, and add the oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and mixing all these ingredients well together. Proceed in this manner with the milk and vinegar, which must be added very gradually, or the sauce will curdle. Put in the seasoning, when the mixture will be ready for use. If this dressing is properly made, it will have a soft creamy appearance, and will be found very delicious with crab, or cold fried fish (the latter cut into dice), as well as with salads. In mixing salad dressings, the ingredients cannot be added too gradually, or stirred too much.
Mode.—Put the mixed mustard into a salad bowl along with the sugar, and add the oil slowly, mixing everything well. Follow the same process with the milk and vinegar, which must be added very gradually, or the sauce will curdle. Add the seasoning when the mixture is ready to use. If this dressing is made correctly, it will have a soft, creamy look and will be delicious with crab or cold fried fish (the latter cut into cubes), as well as with salads. When mixing salad dressings, the ingredients can't be added too gradually or stirred too much.
Average cost, for this quantity, 3d.
Average cost, for this amount, 3 pence.
Sufficient for a small salad.
Enough for a small salad.
This recipe can be confidently recommended by the editress, to whom it was given by an intimate friend noted for her salads.
This recipe comes highly recommended by the editor, who received it from a close friend known for her salads.
SCARCITY OF SALADS IN ENGLAND.—Three centuries ago, very few vegetables were cultivated in England, and an author writing of the period of Henry VIII.'s reign, tells us that neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the kingdom: they came from Holland and Flanders. We further learn, that Queen Catharine herself, with all her royalty, could not procure a salad of English growth for her dinner. The king was obliged to mend this sad state of affairs, and send to Holland for a gardener in order to cultivate those pot-herbs, in the growth of which England is now, perhaps, not behind any other country in Europe.
SCARCITY OF SALADS IN ENGLAND.—Three centuries ago, very few vegetables were grown in England. An author writing during the reign of Henry VIII tells us that neither salads, carrots, cabbages, radishes, nor any other similar foods were cultivated anywhere in the kingdom; they were imported from Holland and Flanders. We also learn that Queen Catherine herself, despite her royal status, could not get a salad grown in England for her dinner. The king had to fix this unfortunate situation and bring in a gardener from Holland to grow those vegetables, and now England is possibly on par with any other country in Europe when it comes to producing them.
[Illustration: THE OLIVE.]
[Illustration: THE OLIVE.]
THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL.—This tree assumes a high degree of interest from the historical circumstances with which it is connected. A leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove, when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great deep, and gave the first token that the deluge was subsiding. Among the Greeks, the prize of the victor in the Olympic games was a wreath of wild olive; and the "Mount of Olives" is rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned in the Scriptures as near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the north of Africa, Syria, and Greece; and the Romans introduced it to Italy. In Spain and the south of France it is now cultivated; and although it grows in England, its fruit does not ripen in the open air. Both in Greece and Portugal the fruit is eaten in its ripe state; but its taste is not agreeable to many palates. To the Italian shepherd, bread and olives, with a little wine, form a nourishing diet; but in England, olives are usually only introduced by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands which have been previously eaten, that the flavour of the wine may be the better enjoyed. There are three kinds of olives imported to London,—the French, Spanish, and Italian: the first are from Provence, and are generally accounted excellent; the second are larger, but more bitter; and the last are from Lucca, and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called olive oil, or salad oil, is, with the continentals, in continual request, more dishes being prepared with than without it, we should imagine. With us, it is principally used in mixing a salad, and when thus employed, it tends to prevent fermentation, and is an antidote against flatulency.
THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL.—This tree is particularly interesting because of its historical connections. A leaf from it was brought back to the ark by the dove when it was still floating on the waters of the great flood, signaling that the deluge was finally receding. In ancient Greece, the prize for the victor in the Olympic games was a wreath made of wild olive, and the "Mount of Olives" is well-known from its mentions in the Scriptures as being close to Jerusalem. This tree grows naturally in northern Africa, Syria, and Greece, and the Romans brought it to Italy. Today, it is cultivated in Spain and southern France; although it can grow in England, the olives do not ripen outside. In both Greece and Portugal, the ripe fruit is consumed, but its flavor doesn't appeal to everyone. For Italian shepherds, bread and olives, along with a bit of wine, make a hearty meal; however, in England, olives are typically served as dessert, meant to cleanse the palate from the previous meal so that the wine can be better appreciated. There are three types of olives imported to London—French, Spanish, and Italian: the French olives from Provence are usually considered excellent; the Spanish ones are larger but more bitter; and the Italian olives from Lucca are regarded as the best. The oil extracted from olives, known as olive oil or salad oil, is in constant demand among people on the continent, with more dishes prepared using it than without it. In our country, it is mainly used for mixing in salads, where it helps prevent fermentation and acts as a remedy for flatulence.
II.
507. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoonful of white pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, vinegar.
507. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 teaspoon of mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoon of white pepper, half that amount of cayenne, salt to taste, 4 tablespoons of cream, vinegar.
Mode.—Boil the eggs until hard, which will be in about 1/4 hour or 20 minutes; put them into cold water, take off the shells, and pound the yolks in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then add all the other ingredients, except the vinegar, and stir them well until the whole are thoroughly incorporated one with the other. Pour in sufficient vinegar to make it of the consistency of cream, taking care to add but little at a time. The mixture will then be ready for use.
Mode.—Boil the eggs until they’re hard, which will take about 20 minutes. Put them in cold water, peel the shells off, and mash the yolks in a bowl until they’re smooth. Then add all the other ingredients, except the vinegar, and mix them well until everything is fully combined. Gradually pour in enough vinegar to make it the consistency of cream, being careful to add only a little at a time. The mixture will then be ready to use.
Average cost, for this quantity, 7d.
Average cost, for this amount, 7d.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized salad.
Enough for a medium salad.
Note.—The whites of the eggs, cut into rings, will serve very well as a garnishing to the salad.
Note.—Cut the whites of the eggs into rings to use as a garnish for the salad.
III.
508. INGREDIENTS.—1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salad oil, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream.
508. INGREDIENTS.—1 egg, 1 teaspoon of salad oil, 1 teaspoon of mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 6 tablespoons of cream.
Mode.—Prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe, and be very particular that the whole is well stirred.
Mode.—Prepare and mix the ingredients according to the previous recipe, and make sure that everything is thoroughly stirred.
Note.—In making salads, the vegetables, &c., should never be added to the sauce very long before they are wanted for table; the dressing, however, may always be prepared some hours before required. Where salads are much in request, it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressing for a few days' consumption, as, thereby, much time and trouble are saved. If kept in a cool place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days.
Note.—When making salads, the vegetables, etc., should never be added to the dressing too far in advance of serving; however, the dressing can always be prepared a few hours beforehand. If salads are frequently requested, it's a good idea to bottle enough dressing for a few days' use, as this saves a lot of time and effort. If stored in a cool place, it will stay fresh for 4 or 5 days.
POETIC RECIPE FOR SALAD.—The Rev. Sydney Smith, the witty canon of St. Paul's, who thought that an enjoyment of the good things of this earth was compatible with aspirations for things higher, wrote the following excellent recipe for salad, which we should advise our readers not to pass by without a trial, when the hot weather invites to a dish of cold lamb. May they find the flavour equal to the rhyme.—
POETIC RECIPE FOR SALAD.—The Rev. Sydney Smith, the clever canon of St. Paul's, who believed that enjoying the pleasures of this world could go hand in hand with aiming for greater things, wrote this fantastic recipe for salad. We encourage our readers to give it a try, especially when the hot weather calls for a dish of cold lamb. May they find the taste as good as the poem.
"Two large potatoes, pass'd through kitchen sieve,
Smoothness and softness to the salad give:
Of mordent mustard add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault.
To add a double quantity of salt:
Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
And twice with vinegar procured from 'town;
True flavour needs it, and your poet begs,
The pounded yellow of two well-boil'd eggs.
Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
And, lastly, in the flavour'd compound toss
A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.
Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat,
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat.
Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl."
"Two large potatoes, passed through a kitchen sieve,
Smoothness and softness to the salad give:
Add a spoonful of sharp mustard,
Be cautious with the condiment that bites too soon;
But don’t think it’s a mistake, you man of herbs,
To add a double amount of salt:
Crown it with four spoonfuls of olive oil,
And two spoonfuls of vinegar from the town;
True flavor needs it, and your poet asks,
For the crushed yolks of two well-boiled eggs.
Let bits of onion hide in the bowl,
And, barely noticeable, bring it to life;
And finally, in the flavorful mix add
A magical spoonful of anchovy sauce.
Oh! great and glorious, and herby treat,
It would tempt even the dying hermit to eat.
He’d turn his weary soul back to the world,
And plunge his fingers into the salad bowl."
SAUCE ALLEMANDE, or GERMAN SAUCE.
Allemande Sauce or German Sauce.
509. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of sauce tournée (No. 517), the yolks of 2 eggs.
509. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of sauce tournée (No. 517), 2 egg yolks.
Mode.—Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir to it the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it just simmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle; and after they are added to the sauce, it must be stirred without ceasing. This sauce is a general favourite, and is used for many made dishes.
Mode.—Pour the sauce into a saucepan, heat it up, and stir in the beaten yolks of 2 eggs that have been strained beforehand. Let it simmer gently but don't let it boil, or the eggs will curdle; once the eggs are added to the sauce, keep stirring continuously. This sauce is a popular choice and is used for many prepared dishes.
Time.—1 minute to simmer.
Time.—1 minute to cook.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6d.
SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce).
Store-Bought Aristocrat Sauce
510. INGREDIENTS.—Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. of anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of Jamaica ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled liquor, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1/4 pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy.
510. INGREDIENTS.—Green walnuts. For each pint of juice, use 1 lb. of anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of bruised Jamaica ginger, and 8 shallots. For each pint of the boiled liquid, add 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1/4 pint of port wine, and 2 tablespoons of soy sauce.
Mode.—Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice through a strainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and to every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the above proportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved, then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), and boil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, and soy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well, and seal the corks.
Mode.—Crush the walnuts in a bowl, strain out the juice, and let it sit to separate. Pour off the clear juice, and for each pint, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the specified amounts. Heat everything until the anchovies dissolve, then strain the juice again, add shallots (8 for each pint), and boil again. For each pint of the cooked liquid, add vinegar, wine, and soy sauce in the specified amounts, then bottle it for use. Seal the bottles tightly and cork them.
Seasonable.—Make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of July, when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling.
Seasonable.—Make this sauce from early to mid-July, when walnuts are perfect for sauces and pickling.
Average cost, 3s. 6d. for a quart.
Average cost, £3.50 for a quart.
MANUFACTURE OF SAUCES.—In France, during the reign of Louis XII., at the latter end of the 14th century, there was formed a company of sauce-manufacturers, who obtained, in those days of monopolies, the exclusive privilege of making sauces. The statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous sauce à la cameline, sold by them, was to be composed or "good cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar." The sauce Tence, was to be made of "good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good verjuice." May we respectfully express a hope—not that we desire to doubt it in the least—that the English sauce-manufacturers of the 19th century are equally considerate and careful in choosing their ingredients for their various well-known preparations.
MANUFACTURE OF SAUCES.—In France, during the reign of Louis XII, at the end of the 14th century, a group of sauce manufacturers was formed, who secured, in those times of monopolies, the exclusive right to produce sauces. The rules established by this group tell us that the famous sauce à la cameline, sold by them, had to be made from "good cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar." The sauce Tence was to be made from "good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good verjuice." May we respectfully hope—not that we wish to doubt it at all—that the English sauce manufacturers of the 19th century are equally thoughtful and meticulous in selecting their ingredients for their various well-known products.
SAUCE A L'AURORE, for Trout, Soles, &c.
SAUCE A L'AURORE, for Trout, Soles, etc.
511. INGREDIENTS.—The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel (No. 367), the juice of 1/2 lemon, a high seasoning of salt and cayenne.
511. INGREDIENTS.—The roe of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel (No. 367), the juice of 1/2 lemon, a generous dash of salt and cayenne.
Mode.—Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter, until quite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the Béchamel into a stewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice, which must be strained, and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt; let it just simmer, but do not allow it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of the sauce will be spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added at pleasure.
Mode.—Take the fish roe and crush it in a mortar with the butter until it's very smooth, then pass it through a fine sieve. Put the Béchamel sauce into a saucepan, add the crushed roe, strained lemon juice, and a generous amount of cayenne and salt; let it simmer gently, but do not let it boil, or the lovely red color of the sauce will be ruined. You can also add a small spoonful of anchovy essence if you like.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, for this quantity, 1s.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, for this quantity, 1 shilling.
Sufficient for a pair of large soles.
Sufficient for a set of big shoes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Fish.
SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Fish.
512. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, 1/2 bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries of allspice, a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled, lemon-juice, and anchovy sauce.
512. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, a bunch of fresh herbs, 1/2 bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 allspice berries, a little liquid from boiling the fish, lemon juice, and anchovy sauce.
Mode.—Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put them into a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strain it through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce, and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be very much enriched by adding a few small quenelles, or forcemeat balls made of fish, and also glazed onions or mushrooms. These, however, should not be added to the matelote till it is dished.
Method.—Slice and fry the onions until they’re a nice brown color, then place them in a saucepan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little bit of the liquid in which the fish was boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices, and let it simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strain it through a fine mesh sieve, then mix in the lemon juice and anchovy sauce, and pour it over the fish. You can enhance this sauce significantly by adding a few small quenelles or fish meatballs, as well as glazed onions or mushrooms. However, these should not be added to the matelote until it’s served.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, £1.30.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
Note.—This sauce originally took its name as being similar to that which the French sailor (matelot) employed as a relish to the fish he caught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for the wine. The Norman matelotes were very celebrated.
Note.—This sauce got its name because it resembled what the French sailor (matelot) used as a condiment for the fish he caught and consumed. Sometimes, cider and perry were used instead of wine. The Norman matelotes were quite famous.
[Illustration: THE BAY.]
[Illustration: THE BAY.]
THE BAY.—We have already described (see No. 180) the difference between the cherry-laurel (Prunus Laurus cerasus) and the classic laurel (Laurus nobilis), the former only being used for culinary purposes. The latter beautiful evergreen was consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes, and used in their sacrifices. "A crown of bay" was the earnestly-desired reward for great enterprises, and for the display of uncommon genius in oratory or writing. It was more particularly sacred to Apollo, because, according to the fable, the nymph Daphne was changed into a laurel-tree. The ancients believed, too, that the laurel had the power of communicating the gift of prophecy, as well as poetic genius; and, when they wished to procure pleasant dreams, would place a sprig under the pillow of their bed. It was the symbol, too, of victory, and it was thought that the laurel could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes that of "laureate;" Alfred Tennyson being the present poet laureate, crowned with laurel as the first of living bards.
THE BAY.—We've already explained (see No. 180) the difference between cherry-laurel (Prunus Laurus cerasus) and classic laurel (Laurus nobilis), with the former being used mainly for cooking. The latter beautiful evergreen was honored by the ancients for priests and heroes and was used in their sacrifices. "A crown of bay" was a highly sought-after reward for significant achievements and for showcasing exceptional talent in speaking or writing. It was especially sacred to Apollo because, according to the myth, the nymph Daphne was transformed into a laurel tree. The ancients also believed that the laurel could grant the gift of prophecy as well as poetic talent; when they wanted to have pleasant dreams, they would place a sprig under their pillow. It was also a symbol of victory, and it was said that laurel could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes "laureate;" Alfred Tennyson is the current poet laureate, crowned with laurel as the foremost living bard.
SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, &c.
SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, etc.
513. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 slices of lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/2 pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 small lump of sugar, 1/4 saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste.
513. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shallots, 1 small bunch of savory herbs, including parsley, 1/2 a bay leaf, 2 slices of lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4 tablespoons of vinegar, 1/2 pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 small lump of sugar, 1/4 saltspoon of cayenne, salt to taste.
Mode.—Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrot and shalots, both of which must be cut into small slices; add the herbs, bay-leaf, spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let these ingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, and put in the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for 1/4 hour, skim off every particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve very hot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid, although it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name. Of course the above quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure, according to taste.
Mode.—In a saucepan, melt the butter and add the carrot and shallots, both chopped into small slices. Stir in the herbs, bay leaf, spices, and finely minced ham, and let these ingredients simmer over low heat until the bottom of the saucepan has a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, then add the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for 15 minutes, skim off all the fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve hot. Be careful not to make the sauce too acidic, although it should have a tang that aligns with its name. You can adjust the amount of vinegar to your preference.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour. Average cost, 10d.
Duration.—Total 30 minutes. Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for a medium-sized dish of cutlets.
Sufficient for a medium-sized serving of cutlets.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
A GOOD SAUCE FOR VARIOUS BOILED PUDDINGS.
514. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, a wineglassful of brandy or rum.
514. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, a glass of brandy or rum.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain; add the pounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir once or twice until the whole is thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or fancy of the cook or mistress.
Mode.—Cream the butter until it's smooth and lump-free; add the powdered sugar and brandy or rum. Stir once or twice until everything is well combined, and serve. This sauce can either be poured around the pudding or served in a bowl, depending on the preferences of the cook or host.
Average cost, 8d. for this quantity.
Average cost, 8d. for this amount.
Sufficient for a pudding.
Good enough for a pudding.
SAUCE ROBERT, for Steaks, &c.
SAUCE ROBERT for steaks, etc.
515. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
515. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoon of flour, 4 tablespoons of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of prepared mustard, 1 teaspoon of vinegar, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
Mode.—Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, when browning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices. Fry them brown, but do not burn them; add the flour, shake the onions in it, and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and seasoning, and boil it gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, vinegar, and lemon-juice; give it one boil, and pour round the steaks, or whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for.
Method.—Put the butter in a saucepan, place it on the stove, and when it starts to brown, add the onions, which should be sliced thin. Fry them until they’re brown but not burnt; then add the flour, toss the onions in it, and fry everything for a bit more. Pour in the gravy and seasoning, and let it simmer gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, then add the mustard, vinegar, and lemon juice; bring it to a boil once more and pour it around the steaks or whatever dish you’ve prepared the sauce for.
Time.—-Altogether 1/2 hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 6d.
Time.—-Total 30 minutes. Average cost, for this amount, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Sufficient for about 2 lbs. of steak.
Sufficient for about 2 lbs. of steak.
Note.—This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast goose, pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes.
Note.—This sauce is a great match for roast goose, pork, mutton cutlets, and many other dishes.
A GOOD SAUCE FOR STEAKS.
516. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of salt, 1/2 oz. grated horseradish, 1/2 oz. of pickled shalots, 1 pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle.
516. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of salt, 1/2 oz. of grated horseradish, 1/2 oz. of pickled shallots, and 1 pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle.
Mode.—Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them into the ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight, when strain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of the sauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy.
Mode.—Finely grind all the ingredients in a mortar and add them to the ketchup or walnut liquor. Let it sit for two weeks, then strain the liquid and bottle it for later use. You can either drizzle a bit of the sauce over the steaks or mix it into the gravy.
Seasonable.—This can be made at any time.
Seasonal.—You can make this anytime.
Note.—In using a jar of pickled walnuts, there is frequently left a large quantity of liquor; this should be converted into a sauce like the above, and will be found a very useful relish.
Note.—When using a jar of pickled walnuts, there’s often a lot of liquid left over; this should be turned into a sauce like the one above, and it will make a very handy condiment.
THE GROWTH OF THE PEPPER-PLANT.—Our readers will see at Nos. 369 and 399, a description, with engravings, of the qualities of black and long pepper, and an account of where these spices are found. We will here say something of the manner of the growth of the pepper-plant. Like the vine, it requires support, and it is usual to plant a thorny tree by its side, to which it may cling. In Malabar, the chief pepper district of India, the jacca-tree (Artocarpus integrifolia) is made thus to yield its assistance, the same soil being adapted to the growth of both plants. The stem of the pepper-plant entwines round its support to a considerable height; the flexile branches then droop downwards, bearing at their extremities, as well as at other parts, spikes of green flowers, which are followed by the pungent berries. These hang in large bunches, resembling in shape those of grapes; but the fruit grows distinct, each on a little stalk, like currants. Each berry contains a single seed, of a globular form and brownish colour, but which changes to a nearly black when dried; and this is the pepper of commerce. The leaves are not unlike those of the ivy, but are larger and of rather lighter colour; they partake strongly of the peculiar smell and pungent taste of the berry.
THE GROWTH OF THE PEPPER-PLANT.—Our readers will see at Nos. 369 and 399 a description, with images, of the characteristics of black and long pepper, along with information about where these spices are found. Here, we’ll discuss how the pepper-plant grows. Like the vine, it needs support, and it’s common to plant a thorny tree nearby for it to cling to. In Malabar, the main pepper-growing area in India, the jacca-tree (Artocarpus integrifolia) provides this support, as both plants thrive in the same type of soil. The stem of the pepper-plant wraps around its support quite high up; the flexible branches then droop down, bearing clusters of green flowers, followed by the spicy berries. These berries hang in large bunches that look like grape clusters, but each fruit grows separately on its own little stem, similar to currants. Each berry contains a single, round seed that’s brownish but turns nearly black when dried; this is the pepper we find in stores. The leaves are somewhat like ivy leaves but larger and lighter in color; they have a strong smell and the distinct taste of the berry.
SAUCE TOURNEE.
517. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of flour and butter, or white roux (No. 526), a faggot of savoury herbs, including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions.
517. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening made from flour and butter, or white roux (No. 526), a bundle of flavorful herbs, including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions.
Mode.—Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, and mushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about 1/2 hour; stir in sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency; let it boil for a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. This sauce, with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently called velouté.
Mode.—Put the stock in a saucepan with the herbs, onions, and mushrooms, and let it simmer gently for about 30 minutes; stir in enough thickener to get the right consistency; let it boil for a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain, and serve. This sauce, with a bit of cream added, is now often referred to as velouté.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 6d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, for this amount, 6 pence.
Note.—If poultry trimmings are at hand, the stock should be made of these; and the above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does not then admit of the fat being nicely removed.
Note.—If you have poultry trimmings available, you should use them to make the stock; and the sauce mentioned above shouldn't be too thick, as that makes it harder to remove the fat properly.
SWEET SAUCE, for Venison.
Sweet sauce for venison.
518. INGREDIENTS.—A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine.
518. INGREDIENTS.—A small jar of red currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine.
Mode.—Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over the fire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not be allowed to boil.
Mode.—Place the ingredients into a saucepan, set it over the heat, and when they've melted, pour it into a serving bowl and serve. It should not be allowed to boil.
Time.—5 minutes to melt the jelly.
Time.—5 minutes to melt the jelly.
Average cost, for this quantity, 1s.
Average cost, for this quantity, £1.
SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL.
519. INGREDIENTS.—1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of Leamington sauce (No. 459), 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, 1 blade of mace, cayenne to taste.
519. INGREDIENTS.—1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoon of Leamington sauce (No. 459), 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 slice of lemon peel, 1 large shallot sliced, 1 blade of mace, cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set it over the fire, and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the sauce in a tureen.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, place it on the stove, and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the sauce in a serving dish.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, 8d.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, for this amount, 8d.
SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, for Turkey.
Sausage stuffing for turkey.
520. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fat pork, both weighed after being chopped (beef suet may be substituted for the latter), 2 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 blade of pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
520. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fatty pork, both weighed after being chopped (you can use beef suet instead of the fatty pork), 2 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoon of minced sage, 1 blade of pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
Mode.—Chop the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the other ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equal quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will be found to answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c. in the latter, impart a very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, however, like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by individual tastes, they must be left, to a great extent, to the discrimination of the cook, who should study her employer's taste in this, as in every other respect.
Mode.—Finely chop the meat and fat, and mix them with the other ingredients, ensuring everything is well combined. Add the egg to moisten the mixture, and the stuffing will be ready to use. Equal parts of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will work really well, as the herbs, lemon peel, etc. in the latter give a delicious flavor to the sausage meat. However, since things like stuffings and forcemeats depend on personal preferences, the decision should mainly be left to the cook's judgment, who should pay attention to their employer's tastes in this area, as with all others.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for a small turkey.
Enough for a small turkey.
SAVOURY JELLY FOR MEAT PIES.
521. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf's-foot, 3 lbs. of knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game trimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little spice; 2 slices of lean ham, rather more than 2 quarts of water.
521. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of beef shin, 1 calf's foot, 3 lbs. of veal knuckle, poultry scraps (if making game pies, use any game scraps), 2 onions studded with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shallots, a bunch of savory herbs, 2 bay leaves; if desired, 2 blades of mace and a bit of spice; 2 slices of lean ham, just over 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the ingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and, when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let it boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain it through a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should be quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whites of eggs, as described in recipe No. 109.
Method.—Cut the meat into pieces and place them in a pot with all the ingredients except the water; cook it over low heat to extract the flavor, and when the juices stop flowing from the meat, add the water. Bring it to a boil, then carefully skim off any foam that forms on top. Cover the pot tightly, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if it boils too quickly, the jelly won't be clear. Once it's done, strain it through a fine sieve or a cheesecloth; when it cools, the jelly should be completely clear. If it's not, clarify it with egg whites, as explained in recipe No. 109.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, for this quantity, 5s.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, for this amount, £5.
SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish.
SHRIMP SAUCE for Different Types of Fish.
522. INGREDIENTS.—1/3 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 1/4 pint of picked shrimps, cayenne to taste.
522. INGREDIENTS.—1/3 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 1/4 pint of picked shrimp, cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe No. 376, shell the shrimps (sufficient to make 1/4 pint when picked), and put them into the butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, but do not allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be added.
Mode.—Prepare the melted butter until it's very smooth by following recipe No. 376, peel the shrimp (enough to make 1/4 pint when cleaned), and add them to the butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce simmer gently, but don’t let it boil. If desired, you can also add a teaspoon of anchovy sauce.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Suitable for 3 or 4 people.
SPINACH GREEN FOR COLOURING VARIOUS DISHES.
523. INGREDIENTS.—2 handfuls of spinach.
523. INGREDIENTS.—2 handfuls of spinach.
Mode.—Pick and wash the spinach free from dirt, and pound the leaves in a mortar to extract the juice; then press it through a hair sieve, and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar. Place this in a bain marie, or saucepan of boiling water, and let it set. Watch it closely, as it should not boil; and, as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, so that all the water may drain from it, and the green will then be ready for colouring. If made according to this recipe, the spinach-green will be found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way.
Method.—Pick and wash the spinach to remove any dirt, then crush the leaves in a mortar to extract the juice; strain it through a fine sieve and pour the juice into a small pot or jar. Place this in a bain marie, or a pot of boiling water, and let it set. Keep a close eye on it to ensure it doesn’t boil; as soon as it’s ready, pour it into a sieve so that all the water can drain off, and the green will then be prepared for coloring. If you follow this recipe, the spinach green will be much better than the kind boiled in the usual way.
HOT SPICE, a Delicious Adjunct to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c.
HOT SPICE, a Tasty Addition to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, etc.
524. INGREDIENTS.—3 drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and cinnamon, 7 cloves, 1/2 oz. mace, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. grated nutmeg, 1-1/2 oz. white pepper.
524. INGREDIENTS.—3 grams each of ginger, black pepper, and cinnamon, 7 cloves, 15 grams mace, 7.5 grams cayenne, 30 grams grated nutmeg, 45 grams white pepper.
Mode.—Pound the ingredients, and mix them thoroughly together, taking care that everything is well blended. Put the spice in a very dry glass bottle for use. The quantity of cayenne may be increased, should the above not be enough to suit the palate.
Mode.—Crush the ingredients and mix them together well, making sure everything is fully blended. Store the spice in a completely dry glass bottle for use. You can increase the amount of cayenne pepper if the amount above isn't enough to satisfy your taste.
[Illustration: CINNAMON.]
[Illustration: CINNAMON.]
CINNAMON.—The cinnamon-tree (Laurus Cinnamomum) is a valuable and beautiful species of the laurel family, and grows to the height of 20 or 30 feet. The trunk is short and straight, with wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth ash-like bark. The leaves are upon short stalks, and are of an oval shape, and 3 to 5 inches long. The flowers are in panicles, with six small petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft, insipid, and of a deep blue. This incloses a nut, the kernel of which germinates soon after it falls. The wood of the tree is white and not very solid, and its root is thick and branching, exuding a great quantity of camphor. The inner bark of the tree forms the cinnamon of commerce. Ceylon was thought to be its native island; but it has been found in Malabar, Cochin-China, Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands; also in the Brazils, the Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical localities.
CINNAMON.—The cinnamon tree (Laurus Cinnamomum) is a valuable and attractive species from the laurel family, growing to about 20 or 30 feet tall. The trunk is short and straight, with branches spreading wide, and it has smooth, ash-colored bark. The leaves have short stems and are oval-shaped, measuring 3 to 5 inches long. The flowers grow in clusters with six small petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft, flavorless, and deep blue. Inside the fruit is a nut, and the kernel starts to germinate shortly after it falls. The wood is white and not very strong, while the thick, branching roots produce a lot of camphor. The inner bark of the tree is what we know as cinnamon in the market. Ceylon was believed to be its original home, but it has also been found in Malabar, Cochin-China, Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands, as well as in Brazil, Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical regions.
BROWN ROUX, a French Thickening for Gravies and Sauces.
BROWN ROUX, a French thickener for gravies and sauces.
525. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of butter, 9 oz. of flour.
525. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. butter, 9 oz. flour.
Mode.—Melt the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and dredge in, very gradually, the flour; stir it till of a light-brown colour—to obtain this do it very slowly, otherwise the flour will burn and impart a bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with. Pour it in a jar, and keep it for use: it will remain good some time.
Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat, and slowly sprinkle in the flour; stir it until it turns a light brown color—do this very slowly, or else the flour will burn and give a bitter taste to the sauce. Pour it into a jar and store it for later use: it will stay good for a while.
Time.—About 1/2 hour. Average cost, 7d.
Duration.—About 30 minutes. Average cost, 7d.
WHITE ROUX, for thickening White Sauces.
WHITE ROUX, for thickening white sauces.
526. Allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the preceding recipe, and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux, but do not keep it on the fire too long, and take care not to let it colour. This is used for thickening white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use when wanted.
526. Use the same amounts of butter and flour as in the previous recipe, and follow the same process as for brown roux, but don’t cook it on the heat for too long, and make sure it doesn’t change color. This is used to thicken white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use later.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, 7d.
Duration.—15 minutes. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient,—A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy.
Sufficient,—A tablespoon will thicken a pint of gravy.
Note.—Besides the above, sauces may be thickened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, &c.: the latter will be found far preferable to the ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice of bread, toasted and added to gravies, answers the two purposes of thickening and colouring them.
Note.—In addition to the above, sauces can be thickened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, etc.: the latter is much better than regular flour for white sauces. A toasted slice of bread added to gravies serves the dual purpose of thickening and coloring them.
SPANISH ONIONS—PICKLED.
527. INGREDIENTS.—Onions, vinegar; salt and cayenne to taste.
527. INGREDIENTS.—Onions, vinegar; salt and cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode.—Cut the onions in thin slices; put a layer of them in the bottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt and cayenne; then add another layer of onions, and season as before. Proceeding in this manner till the jar is full, pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and the pickle will be fit for use in a month.
Mode.—Slice the onions thinly; place a layer of them at the bottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt and cayenne; then add another layer of onions, seasoning as before. Continue this process until the jar is full, then pour in enough vinegar to cover everything, and the pickle will be ready to use in a month.
Seasonable.—May be had in England from September to February.
In Season.—Available in England from September to February.
STORE SAUCE, or CHEROKEE.
STORE SAUCE, or CHEROKEE.
528. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 5 cloves of garlic, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar.
528. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 oz. cayenne pepper, 5 cloves garlic, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon walnut ketchup, 1 pint vinegar.
Mode.—Boil all the ingredients gently for about 1/2 hour; strain the liquor, and bottle off for use.
Method.—Simmer all the ingredients gently for about 30 minutes; strain the liquid and transfer it to a bottle for use.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Seasonable.—This sauce can be made at any time.
Seasonable.—You can make this sauce anytime.
TOMATO SAUCE—HOT, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c.
TOMATO SAUCE—SPICY, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, etc.
529. INGREDIENTS.—6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 1 blade of mace, salt and cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock No. 104.
529. INGREDIENTS.—6 tomatoes, 2 shallots, 1 clove, 1 blade of mace, salt and cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock No. 104.
Mode.—Cut the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the juice and seeds out; put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and let them simmer gently until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp; rub the whole through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, and serve. The shalots and spices may be omitted when their flavour is objected to.
Method.—Cut the tomatoes in half and squeeze out the juice and seeds; put them in a saucepan with all the ingredients and let them simmer gently until the tomatoes are soft enough to mash; strain everything through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, and serve. You can skip the shallots and spices if you don't like their flavor.
Time.—1 hour, or rather more, to simmer the tomatoes.
Time — About 1 hour or a little more to simmer the tomatoes.
Average cost, for this quantity, 1s.
Average cost, for this quantity, £1.
In full season in September and October.
During the peak season in September and October.
[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]
[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]
TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.—The plant which bears this fruit is a native of South America, and takes its name from a Portuguese word. The tomato fruit is about the size of a small potato, and is chiefly used in soups, sauces, and gravies. It is sometimes served to table roasted or boiled, and when green, makes a good ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it is esteemed as excellent sauce for roast goose or pork, and when quite ripe, a good store sauce may be prepared from it.
TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.—The plant that produces this fruit is originally from South America and gets its name from a Portuguese word. The tomato is about the size of a small potato and is mainly used in soups, sauces, and gravies. It's sometimes served roasted or boiled, and when unripe, it makes a tasty ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it is considered a great sauce for roast goose or pork, and when fully ripe, it can be used to make a delicious sauce.
TOMATO SAUCE FOR KEEPING (Excellent).
TOMATO SAUCE FOR STORAGE (Excellent).
I.
530. INGREDIENTS.—To every quart of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of cayenne vinegar (No. 386), 3/4 oz. of shalots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, peeled and cut in slices; salt to taste. To every six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of soy, 1 pint of anchovy sauce.
530. INGREDIENTS.—For every quart of tomato pulp, use 1 pint of cayenne vinegar (No. 386), 3/4 oz. of shallots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, peeled and sliced; salt to taste. For every six quarts of liquid, add 1 pint of soy sauce and 1 pint of anchovy sauce.
Mode.—Gather the tomatoes quite ripe; bake them in a slow oven till tender; rub them through a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add cayenne vinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, in the above proportion; boil the whole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft; then rub it through a sieve, put it again into a saucepan, and, to every six quarts of the liquor, add 1 pint of soy and the same quantity of anchovy sauce, and boil altogether for about 20 minutes; bottle off for use, and carefully seal or rosin the corks. This will keep good for 2 or 3 years, but will be fit for use in a week. A useful and less expensive sauce may be made by omitting the anchovy and soy.
Mode.—Pick ripe tomatoes and bake them in a slow oven until they're soft. Pass them through a sieve, and for every quart of pulp, add cayenne vinegar, shallots, garlic, and salt in the proportions mentioned above. Boil everything together until the garlic and shallots are completely soft. Then strain it again through a sieve, return it to a saucepan, and for every six quarts of the liquid, add 1 pint of soy sauce and the same amount of anchovy sauce. Boil it all together for about 20 minutes, then bottle it for later use, making sure to seal or rosin the corks. This will stay good for 2 to 3 years but will be ready to use in a week. You can make a useful and cheaper sauce by leaving out the anchovy and soy sauce.
Time.—Altogether 1 hour.
Duration.—Total 1 hour.
Seasonable.—Make this from the middle of September to the end of October.
Seasonable.—Make this from mid-September to the end of October.
II.
531. INGREDIENTS.—1 dozen tomatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls of the best powdered ginger, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic chopped fine, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a small quantity of cayenne may be substituted for this).
531. INGREDIENTS.—12 tomatoes, 2 teaspoons of the best powdered ginger, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 head of garlic, finely chopped, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of chili vinegar (you can substitute a small amount of cayenne for this).
Mode.—Choose ripe tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and stand them in a cool oven until quite tender; when cold, take the skins and stalks from them, mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar, but do not strain it; add all the other ingredients, mix well together, and put it into well-sealed bottles. Stored away in a cool dry place, it will keep good for years. It is ready for use as soon as made, but the flavour is better after a week or two. Should it not appear to keep, turn it out, and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne. For immediate use, the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle with a little of the different ingredients, and they will be found very nice for hashes or stews.
Mode.—Select ripe tomatoes, place them in a stone jar, and set them in a cool oven until they're really soft; once they're cool, remove the skins and stems, and mix the pulp with the juice from the jar, but don’t strain it; add all the other ingredients, combine everything well, and transfer it to tightly sealed bottles. If stored in a cool, dry place, it will last for years. It can be used as soon as it's made, but the flavor improves after a week or two. If it doesn't seem to keep well, pour it out and boil it with a bit more ginger and cayenne. For immediate use, the skins can be placed in a wide-mouth bottle with some of the various ingredients, and they’ll be great for hashes or stews.
Time.—4 or 5 hours in a cool oven.
Time.—4 to 5 hours in a cool oven.
Seasonable from the middle of September to the end of October.
In season from mid-September to the end of October.
III.
532. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen tomatoes; to every pound of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of shalot, 2 oz. of salt, 1 large green capsicum, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickled gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of common vinegar, and the juice of 6 lemons.
532. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen tomatoes; for every pound of tomato pulp, use 1 pint of chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of shallot, 2 oz. of salt, 1 large green bell pepper, 1/2 teaspoon of cayenne, 2 pickled gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of regular vinegar, and the juice of 6 lemons.
Mode.—Choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red; put them in a jar with a cover to it, and bake them till tender. The better way is to put them in the oven overnight, when it will not be too hot, and examine them in the morning to see if they are tender. Do not allow them to remain in the oven long enough to break them; but they should be sufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve. Measure the pulp, and to each pound of pulp, add the above proportion of vinegar and other ingredients, taking care to chop very fine the garlic, shalot, capsicum, onion, and gherkins. Boil the whole together till everything is tender; then again rub it through a sieve, and add the lemon-juice. Now boil the whole again till it becomes as thick as cream, and keep continually stirring; bottle it when quite cold, cork well, and seal the corks. If the flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked, diminish the quantities.
Mode.—Pick the tomatoes when they are fully ripe and red; place them in a jar with a lid, and bake them until they're soft. The best method is to put them in the oven overnight at a low temperature and check them in the morning to see if they've become tender. Avoid leaving them in the oven long enough for them to break apart; they should be soft enough to peel easily and pass through a sieve. Measure the pulp, and for each pound of pulp, add the specified amount of vinegar and other ingredients, making sure to finely chop the garlic, shallots, chili peppers, onion, and gherkins. Cook everything together until it's tender, then pass it through a sieve again and add the lemon juice. Cook it once more until it thickens to a creamy consistency, stirring continuously; bottle it once it's completely cool, cork it tightly, and seal the corks. If you really dislike the taste of garlic and shallots, reduce the amounts used.
Time.—Bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night.
Time.—Cook the tomatoes in a low oven overnight.
Seasonable from the middle of September to the end of October.
Available from the middle of September to the end of October.
Note.—A quantity of liquor will flow from the tomatoes, which must be put through the sieve with the rest. Keep it well stirred while on the fire, and use a wooden spoon.
Note.—A lot of juice will come out of the tomatoes, which should be strained through the sieve with everything else. Keep it stirred well while it's on the heat, and use a wooden spoon.
UNIVERSAL PICKLE.
533. INGREDIENTS.—To 6 quarts of vinegar allow 1 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb. of ginger, 1 oz. of mace, 1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 tablespoonful of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric.
533. INGREDIENTS.—For 6 quarts of vinegar, use 1 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb. of ginger, 1 oz. of mace, 1/2 lb. of shallots, 1 tablespoon of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard seeds, and 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric.
Mode.—Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes; when cold, put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose, such as radish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, gherkins, &c. &c., as these come into season; put them in fresh as you gather them, having previously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit. This pickle will be fit for use in about 8 or 9 months.
Mode.—Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes; when cool, put them into a jar with any vegetables you like, such as radish pods, green beans, cauliflower, gherkins, etc., as they come into season; add them fresh as you pick them, making sure to wipe them completely dry and free of dirt. This pickle will be ready to use in about 8 or 9 months.
Time.—20 minutes.
Duration.—20 minutes.
Seasonable.—Make the pickle in May or June, to be ready for the various vegetables.
Seasonable.—Make the pickle in May or June, so it’s ready for the different vegetables.
Note.—As this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make,—that is to say, nearly that time will elapse before all the different vegetables are added,—care must be taken to keep the jar which contains the pickle well covered, either with a closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladder securely tied over, so as perfectly to exclude the air.
Note.—Since this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make—meaning it will be almost that long before all the different vegetables are added—you need to make sure the jar holding the pickle is kept well covered, either with a tight-fitting lid or a piece of bladder securely tied over it, to completely keep out the air.
PICKLED WALNUTS (Very Good).
Pickled Walnuts (Excellent).
534. INGREDIENTS.—100 walnuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar allow 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of bruised ginger.
534. INGREDIENTS.—100 walnuts, salt, and water. For each quart of vinegar, use 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, and 1 oz. of crushed ginger.
Mode.—Procure the walnuts while young; be careful they are not woody, and prick them well with a fork; prepare a strong brine of salt and water (4 lbs. of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the walnuts, letting them remain 9 days, and changing the brine every third day; drain them off, put them on a dish, place it in the sun until they become perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3 days; have ready dry jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, for 10 minutes, with spices in the above proportion, and pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite covered with the pickle; tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place. They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good 2 or 3 years.
Mode.—Get the walnuts when they're still young; make sure they’re not tough, and poke them well with a fork. Prepare a strong brine using salt and water (4 lbs. of salt for every gallon of water), then add the walnuts, letting them sit for 9 days and changing the brine every third day. Drain them, place them on a dish, and leave it in the sun until they turn completely black, which should take 2 or 3 days. Have dry jars ready and fill them with the walnuts, but don’t pack them too tightly. Boil enough vinegar to cover them for 10 minutes with spices at the same ratio, and pour it hot over the walnuts, ensuring they’re fully submerged in the pickling liquid. Seal the jars with a bladder and store them in a dry place. They’ll be ready to eat in a month and can last for 2 to 3 years.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
Seasonable.—Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, before the walnuts harden.
Seasonable.—Prepare this from early to mid-July, before the walnuts toughen up.
Note.—When liked, a few shalots may be added to the vinegar, and boiled with it.
Note.—If you prefer, you can add a few shallots to the vinegar and boil them together.
WALNUT KETCHUP.
I.
535. INGREDIENTS.—100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of nutmeg, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of ginger, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20 shalots, 1/4 lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine.
535. INGREDIENTS.—100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of vinegar, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of nutmeg, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of ginger, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20 shallots, 1/4 lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine.
Mode.—Procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar, let them stand 8 days, stirring every day; then drain the liquor from them, and boil it, with the above ingredients, for about 1/2 hour. It may be strained or not, as preferred, and, if required, a little more vinegar or wine can be added, according to taste. When bottled well, seal the corks.
Mode.—Get the walnuts when you can easily poke a pin through them, lightly crush them, and place them in a jar with salt and vinegar. Let them sit for 8 days, stirring each day; then drain off the liquid and boil it with the other ingredients for about half an hour. You can strain it if you want, and if needed, add a bit more vinegar or wine to taste. Once bottled properly, seal the corks.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Seasonable.—Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, when walnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes.
Seasonable.—Make this from early to mid-July, when walnuts are perfect for pickling.
II.
536. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 sieve of walnut-shells, 2 quarts of water, salt, 1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of garlic.
536. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 sieve of walnut shells, 2 quarts of water, salt, 1/2 lb. of shallots, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of garlic.
Mode.—Put the walnut-shells into a pan, with the water, and a large quantity of salt; let them stand for 10 days, then break the shells up in the water, and let it drain through a sieve, putting a heavy weight on the top to express the juice; place it on the fire, and remove all scum that may arise. Now boil the liquor with the shalots, cloves, mace, pepper, and garlic, and let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put the liquor into a pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork closely. It should stand 6 months before using: should it ferment during that time, it must be again boiled and skimmed.
Mode.—Put the walnut shells in a pan with water and a lot of salt; let them sit for 10 days. Then, break the shells up in the water and let it drain through a sieve, placing a heavy weight on top to press out the juice. Heat it on the stove and remove any scum that rises. Now, boil the liquid with shallots, cloves, mace, pepper, and garlic, letting it simmer until the shallots sink. Pour the liquid into a pan, and when it's cool, bottle it and seal it tightly. It should sit for 6 months before use; if it ferments during that time, you’ll need to boil it again and skim it.
Time.—About 3/4 hour.
Time.—About 45 minutes.
Seasonable in September, when the walnut-shells are obtainable.
In season in September, when walnut shells are available.
[Illustration: THE WALNUT.]
[Illustration: THE WALNUT.]
THE WALNUT.—This nut is a native of Persia, and was introduced into England from France. As a pickle, it is much used in the green state; and grated walnuts in Spain are much employed, both in tarts and other dishes. On the continent it is occasionally employed as a substitute for olive oil in cooking; but it is apt, under such circumstances, to become rancid. The matter which remains after the oil is extracted is considered highly nutritious for poultry. It is called mare, and in Switzerland is eaten under the name of pain amer by the poor. The oil is frequently manufactured into a kind of soap, and the leaves and green husks yield an extract, which, as a brown dye, is used to stain hair, wool, and wood.
THE WALNUT.—This nut originates from Persia and was brought to England from France. It's commonly used in its green form as a pickle, and grated walnuts are popular in Spain for tarts and various dishes. In Europe, it sometimes replaces olive oil in cooking, though it can go rancid in that role. The leftover material after oil extraction is very nutritious for poultry and is called mare; in Switzerland, the poor eat it under the name pain amer. The oil is often made into a type of soap, and the leaves and green husks produce an extract that serves as a brown dye for staining hair, wool, and wood.
WHITE SAUCE (Good).
Bechamel (Good).
537. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), 1/2 pint of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste.
537. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), 1/2 pint of cream, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, salt to taste.
Mode.—Have ready a delicately-clean saucepan, into which put the stock, which should be well flavoured with vegetables, and rather savoury; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, add it to the stock, season with a little salt, and boil all these ingredients very gently for about 10 minutes, keeping them well stirred the whole time, as this sauce is very liable to burn.
Mode.—Have a clean saucepan ready, and pour in the stock, which should be well-seasoned with vegetables and quite flavorful; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, then add it to the stock, season with a pinch of salt, and gently simmer all these ingredients for about 10 minutes, stirring continuously, as this sauce is prone to burning.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Duration.—10 minutes. Average cost, £1.
Sufficient for a pair of fowls.
Enough for a pair of birds.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
WHITE SAUCE, made without Meat.
Vegetarian white sauce.
538. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1/2 a small teacupful of flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne to taste.
538. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1/2 a small teacupful of flour, 1 pint of fresh milk, salt and cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode.—Cut up the onions and carrot very small, and put them into a stewpan with the butter; simmer them till the butter is nearly dried up; then stir in the flour, and add the milk; boil the whole gently until it thickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will be ready to serve.
Mode.—Chop the onions and carrot finely, and place them in a saucepan with the butter; simmer until the butter is almost gone; then stir in the flour and add the milk; gently boil the mixture until it thickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will be ready to serve.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, 5d.
Duration — 15 minutes. Average cost, 5d.
Sufficient for a pair of fowls.
Sufficient for a pair of chickens.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple and Inexpensive Method).
WHITE SAUCE (a very simple and affordable method).
539. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of rice, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 1 small blade of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to taste.
539. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of milk, 1 1/2 oz. of rice, 1 strip of lemon peel, 1 small piece of ground mace, salt and cayenne pepper to taste.
Mode.—Boil the milk with the lemon-peel and rice until the latter is perfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk and rice together; put it back into the stewpan to warm, add the mace and seasoning, give it one boil, and serve. This sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream.
Mode.—Heat the milk with the lemon peel and rice until the rice is fully tender, then remove the lemon peel and mash the milk and rice together; return it to the pot to warm up, add the mace and seasoning, let it boil once, and serve. This sauce should have the consistency of thick cream.
Time.—About 1-1/2 hour to boil the rice.
Time.—About 1.5 hours to cook the rice.
Average cost, 4d.
Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient for a pair of fowls.
Enough for a pair of birds.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
[Illustration: THE LEAMINGTON STOVE, OR KITCHENER.]
[Illustration: THE LEAMINGTON STOVE, OR KITCHENER.]
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.
CHAPTER XI.
GENERAL REMARKS.
540. In Our "INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY" (see No. 76) we have described the gradual progress of mankind in the art of cookery, the probability being, that the human race, for a long period, lived wholly on fruits. Man's means of attacking animals, even if he had the desire of slaughtering them, were very limited, until he acquired the use of arms. He, however, made weapons for himself, and, impelled by a carnivorous instinct, made prey of the animals that surrounded him. It is natural that man should seek to feed on flesh; he has too small a stomach to be supported alone by fruit, which has not sufficient nourishment to renovate him. It is possible he might subsist on vegetables; but their preparation needs the knowledge of art, only to be obtained after the lapse of many centuries. Man's first weapons were the branches of trees, which were succeeded by bows and arrows, and it is worthy of remark, that these latter weapons have been found with the natives of all climates and latitudes. It is singular how this idea presented itself to individuals so differently placed.
540. In our "INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY" (see No. 76), we discussed the gradual development of cooking skills in humans. It's likely that our ancestors survived primarily on fruits for a long time. Their ability to hunt animals was very limited, even if they wanted to, until they learned to use tools. However, they crafted their own weapons and, driven by a natural instinct to eat meat, hunted the animals around them. It's only natural for humans to crave meat; our stomachs are too small to rely solely on fruit, which doesn't provide enough nourishment for us. They might have lived on vegetables, but cooking them requires skills that take many centuries to develop. The earliest weapons were tree branches, which later evolved into bows and arrows. Interestingly, these weapons have been found among the indigenous people of all regions and climates. It's fascinating how this idea emerged among people in such different environments.
541. BRILLAT SAVARIN says, that raw flesh has but one inconvenience,—from its viscousness it attaches itself to the teeth. He goes on to say, that it is not, however, disagreeable; but, when seasoned with salt, that it is easily digested. He tells a story of a Croat captain, whom he invited to dinner in 1815, during the occupation of Paris by the allied troops. This officer was amazed at his host's preparations, and said, "When we are campaigning, and get hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with salt, which we always have in the sabretasche, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then dine like princes." Again, of the huntsmen of Dauphiny it is said, that when they are out shooting in September, they take with them both pepper and salt. If they kill a very fat bird, they pluck and season it, and, after carrying it some time in their caps, eat it. This, they declare, is the best way of serving it up.
541. BRILLAT SAVARIN says that raw meat has just one downside—it sticks to your teeth because it's so slippery. He adds that it’s not unpleasant, and when you season it with salt, it's easy to digest. He shares a story about a Croat captain he invited to dinner in 1815, during the time when the allied troops occupied Paris. This officer was blown away by his host's preparations and said, "When we’re on a campaign and get hungry, we take down the first animal we see, cut off a steak, sprinkle it with salt, which we always carry in our saddlebag, put it under the saddle, ride over it for half a mile, and then feast like kings." Also, it’s said that the hunters in Dauphiny, when they go shooting in September, bring both pepper and salt with them. If they shoot a particularly fatty bird, they pluck it and season it, and after carrying it in their caps for a bit, they eat it. They claim this is the best way to serve it.
542. SUBSEQUENTLY TO THE CROAT MODE, which, doubtless, was in fashion in the earlier ages of the world, fire was discovered. This was an accident; for fire is not, although we are accustomed to call it so, an element, or spontaneous. Many savage nations have been found utterly ignorant of it, and many races had no other way of dressing their food than by exposing it to the rays of the sun.
542. AFTER THE CROAT MODE, which was definitely in style in the earlier ages of the world, fire was discovered. This was an accident; because fire is not, even though we often refer to it as such, an element or something that occurs spontaneously. Many primitive peoples have been found completely unaware of it, and many groups had no other method of cooking their food than by leaving it out in the sun.
543. THE INHABITANTS OF THE MARIAN ISLANDS, which were discovered in 1521, had no idea of fire. Never was astonishment greater than theirs when they first saw it, on the descent of Magellan, the navigator, on one of their isles. At first they thought it a kind of animal, that fixed itself to and fed upon wood. Some of them, who approached too near, being burnt, the rest were terrified, and durst only look upon it at a distance. They were afraid, they said, of being bit, or lest that dreadful animal should wound with his violent respiration and dreadful breath; for these were the first notions they formed of the heat and flame. Such, too, probably, were the notions the Greeks originally formed of them.
543. THE INHABITANTS OF THE MARIAN ISLANDS, discovered in 1521, had no concept of fire. Their astonishment was unmatched when they first encountered it during Magellan's visit to one of their islands. They initially thought it was some kind of animal that attached itself to and consumed wood. Some who got too close were burned, which terrified the others, and they could only watch from a distance. They expressed fear of being bitten or that the terrifying creature might injure them with its intense heat and dreadful breath; these were the first ideas they formed about heat and flame. Similarly, these were probably the original ideas the Greeks had about them.
544. FIRE HAVING BEEN DISCOVERED, mankind endeavoured to make use of it for drying, and afterwards for cooking their meat; but they were a considerable time before they hit upon proper and commodious methods of employing it in the preparation of their food.
544. Once fire was discovered, humans tried to use it for drying and then for cooking their meat; however, it took them quite a while to come up with appropriate and efficient methods for using it in food preparation.
545. MEAT, THEN, PLACED ON BURNING FUEL was found better than when raw: it had more firmness, was eaten with less difficulty, and the ozmazome being condensed by the carbonization, gave it a pleasing perfume and flavour. Still, however, the meat cooked on the coal would become somewhat befouled, certain portions of the fuel adhering to it. This disadvantage was remedied by passing spits through it, and placing it at a suitable height above the burning fuel. Thus grilling was invented; and it is well known that, simple as is this mode of cookery, yet all meat cooked in this way is richly and pleasantly flavoured. In Homer's time, the, art of cookery had not advanced much beyond this; for we read in the "Iliad," how the great Achilles and his friend Patroclus regaled the three Grecian leaders on bread, wine, and broiled meat. It is noticeable, too, that Homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere in his poems. Later, however, the Jews, coming out of their captivity in Egypt, had made much greater progress. They undoubtedly possessed kettles; and in one of these, Esau's mess of pottage, for which he sold his birthright, must have been prepared.
545. Meat cooked over burning fuel was found to be better than when it was raw: it had more firmness, was easier to eat, and the ozmazome, being concentrated by the charring, gave it a nice aroma and flavor. However, the meat cooked on the coals would sometimes get a bit dirty, with some fuel sticking to it. This issue was fixed by putting spits through the meat and placing it at a proper height above the burning fuel. This led to the invention of grilling; it's well-known that, despite its simplicity, all meat cooked this way is richly and pleasantly flavored. In Homer's time, the art of cooking hadn't really progressed beyond this; we read in the "Iliad" how the great Achilles and his friend Patroclus treated the three Grecian leaders to bread, wine, and grilled meat. It's also noteworthy that Homer doesn't mention boiled meat anywhere in his poems. Later on, however, the Jews, after coming out of their captivity in Egypt, had made much more progress. They definitely had pots; and in one of these, Esau's bowl of stew, for which he sold his birthright, must have been prepared.
546. HAVING THUS BRIEFLY TRACED A HISTORY OF GASTRONOMICAL PROGRESSES, we will now proceed to describe the various methods of cooking meat, and make a few observations on the chemical changes which occur in each of the operations.
546. HAVING THUS BRIEFLY TRACED A HISTORY OF GASTRONOMICAL PROGRESSES, we will now proceed to describe the different ways to cook meat, and share some insights on the chemical changes that happen during each of these processes.
547. IN THIS COUNTRY, plain boiling, roasting, and baking are the usual methods of cooking animal food. To explain the philosophy of these simple culinary operations, we must advert to the effects that are produced by heat on the principal constituents of flesh. When finely-chopped mutton or beef is steeped for some time in a small quantity of clean water, and then subjected to slight pressure, the juice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white tasteless residue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibres. When this residue is heated to between 158° and 177° Fahrenheit, the fibres shrink together, and become hard and horny. The influence of an elevated temperature on the soluble extract of flesh is not less remarkable. When the watery infusion, which contains all the savoury constituents of the meat, is gradually heated, it soon becomes turbid; and, when the temperature reaches 133°, flakes of whitish matter separate. These flakes are albumen, a substance precisely similar, in all its properties, to the white of egg (see No. 101). When the temperature of the watery extract is raised to 158°, the colouring matter of the blood coagulates, and the liquid, which was originally tinged red by this substance, is left perfectly clear, and almost colourless. When evaporated, even at a gentle heat, this residual liquid gradually becomes brown, and acquires the flavour of roast meat.
547. IN THIS COUNTRY, boiling, roasting, and baking are the standard ways to cook meat. To understand the idea behind these basic cooking methods, we need to look at what heat does to the main components of meat. When finely chopped lamb or beef is soaked for a while in a small amount of clean water and then slightly pressed, the juice from the meat is released, leaving behind a white, flavorless residue made mostly of muscle fibers. When this residue is heated to between 158° and 177° Fahrenheit, the fibers tighten up and become hard and tough. The effect of high temperatures on the soluble parts of meat is also quite interesting. When the watery extract, which contains all the tasty components of the meat, is gradually heated, it soon gets cloudy; and when it hits 133°, white flakes start to form. These flakes are albumen, which is just like egg whites in its properties (see No. 101). When the temperature of the liquid extract reaches 158°, the pigment in the blood coagulates, and the liquid, which was originally red due to this pigment, becomes completely clear and almost colorless. When this leftover liquid is evaporated, even with gentle heat, it slowly turns brown and takes on the flavor of roasted meat.
548. THESE INTERESTING FACTS, discovered in the laboratory, throw a flood of light upon the mysteries of the kitchen. The fibres of meat are surrounded by a liquid which contains albumen in its soluble state, just as it exists in the unboiled egg. During the operation of boiling or roasting, this substance coagulates, and thereby prevents the contraction and hardening of the fibres. The tenderness of well-cooked meat is consequently proportioned to the amount of albumen deposited in its substance. Meat is underdone when it has been heated throughout only to the temperature of coagulating albumen: it is thoroughly done when it has been heated through its whole mass to the temperature at which the colouring matter of the blood coagulates: it is overdone when the heat has been continued long enough to harden the fibres.
548. THESE INTERESTING FACTS, discovered in the lab, shed light on the mysteries of the kitchen. The fibers of meat are surrounded by a liquid that contains soluble albumen, just like what you find in an unboiled egg. When you boil or roast the meat, this substance coagulates, preventing the fibers from contracting and hardening. The tenderness of well-cooked meat is therefore linked to the amount of albumen present in it. Meat is undercooked when it has only been heated to the temperature at which albumen coagulates; it is fully cooked when it has reached the temperature at which the coloring matter of the blood coagulates throughout; and it is overcooked when the heat has been applied long enough to harden the fibers.
549. THE JUICE OF FLESH IS WATER, holding in solution many substances besides albumen, which are of the highest possible value as articles of food. In preparing meat for the table, great care should be taken to prevent the escape of this precious juice, as the succulence and sapidity of the meat depend on its retention. The meat to be cooked should be exposed at first to a quick heat, which immediately coagulates the albumen on and near the surface. A kind of shell is thus formed, which effectually retains the whole of the juice within the meat.
549. THE JUICE OF MEAT IS WATER, containing many substances besides protein that are extremely valuable as food. When preparing meat for serving, it’s important to take care not to let this precious juice escape, as the juiciness and flavor of the meat rely on keeping it inside. The meat should be exposed to high heat initially, which quickly cooks the protein on and near the surface. This creates a sort of seal that keeps all the juice trapped inside the meat.
550. DURING THE OPERATIONS OF BOILING, BOASTING, AND BAKING, fresh beef and mutton, when moderately fat, lose, according to Johnston, on an average about—
550. DURING THE OPERATIONS OF BOILING, BOASTING, AND BAKING, fresh beef and mutton, when moderately fatty, lose, according to Johnston, on average about—
In boiling. In baking. In roasting.
In boiling. In baking. In roasting.
4 lbs. of beef lose 1 lb. 1 lb. 3 oz. 1 lb. 5 oz.
4 lbs. of beef lose 1 lb. 1 lb. 3 oz. 1 lb. 5 oz.
4 lbs. of mutton lose 14 oz. 1 lb. 4 oz. 1 lb. 6 oz.
4 lbs. of mutton lose 14 oz. 1 lb. 4 oz. 1 lb. 6 oz.
BAKING.
[Illustration: BAKING DISH.]
[Illustration: Baking Dish.]
551. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ROASTING MEAT AND BAKING IT, may be generally described as consisting in the fact, that, in baking it, the fumes caused by the operation are not carried off in the same way as occurs in roasting. Much, however, of this disadvantage is obviated by the improved construction of modern ovens, and of especially those in connection with the Leamington kitchener, of which we give an engraving here, and a full description of which will be seen at paragraph No. 65, with the prices at which they can be purchased of Messrs. R. and J. Slack, of the Strand. With meat baked in the generality of ovens, however, which do not possess ventilators on the principle of this kitchener, there is undoubtedly a peculiar taste, which does not at all equal the flavour developed by roasting meat. The chemistry of baking may be said to be the same as that described in roasting.
551. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ROASTING MEAT AND BAKING IT can generally be described as the fact that during baking, the fumes produced by the process aren't removed in the same way they are in roasting. However, much of this issue is resolved by the better design of modern ovens, especially those associated with the Leamington kitchener, which we have included here in an illustration. A detailed description can be found in paragraph No. 65, along with the prices available from Messrs. R. and J. Slack, located on the Strand. However, with meat baked in most ovens that lack ventilators based on the kitchener's design, there is definitely a unique taste that doesn’t compare to the flavor achieved by roasting meat. The chemistry of baking is essentially the same as that of roasting.
552. SHOULD THE OVEN BE VERY BRISK, it will be found necessary to cover the joint with a piece of white paper, to prevent the meat from being scorched and blackened outside, before the heat can penetrate into the inside. This paper should be removed half an hour before the time of serving dinner, so that the joint may take a good colour.
552. IF THE OVEN IS TOO HOT, you should cover the meat with a piece of white paper to stop it from getting burnt and dark on the outside before it cooks through on the inside. Remove the paper half an hour before serving dinner so the meat can develop a nice color.
553. BY MEANS OF A JAR, many dishes, which will be enumerated under their special heads, may be economically prepared in the oven. The principal of these are soup, gravies, jugged hare, beef tea; and this mode of cooking may be advantageously adopted with a ham, which has previously been covered with a common crust of flour and water.
553. USING A JAR, many dishes, which will be listed under their specific categories, can be prepared economically in the oven. The main ones are soup, gravies, jugged hare, and beef tea; and this cooking method can also be beneficial for a ham that has been covered with a simple crust of flour and water.
554. ALL DISHES PREPARED FOR BAKING should be more highly seasoned than when intended to be roasted. There are some dishes which, it may be said, are at least equally well cooked in the oven as by the roaster; thus, a shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes, a fillet or breast of veal, a sucking pig, a hare, well basted, will be received by connoisseurs as well, when baked, as if they had been roasted. Indeed, the baker's oven, or the family oven, may often, as has been said, be substituted for the cook and the spit with greater economy and convenience.
554. ALL DISHES PREPARED FOR BAKING should be seasoned more than when they are meant to be roasted. Some dishes are just as well cooked in the oven as they are when roasted; for example, a shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes, a fillet or breast of veal, a suckling pig, or a hare that’s been basted well will be appreciated by connoisseurs just as much when baked as when roasted. In fact, the baker's oven or a home oven can often replace the cook and the spit more economically and conveniently, as mentioned before.
555. A BAKING-DISH, of which we give an engraving, should not be less than 6 or 7 inches deep; so that the meat, which of course cannot be basted, can stew in its own juices. In the recipe for each dish, full explanations concerning any special points in relation to it will be given.
555. A BAKING DISH, shown in the engraving, should be at least 6 or 7 inches deep, so that the meat, which can't be basted, can cook in its own juices. Each recipe will include detailed explanations for any specific points related to it.
BOILING.
556. BOILING, or the preparation of meat by hot water, though one of the easiest processes in cookery, requires skilful management. Boiled meat should be tender, savoury, and full of its own juice, or natural gravy; but, through the carelessness and ignorance of cooks, it is too often sent to table hard, tasteless, and innutritious. To insure a successful result in boiling flesh, the heat of the fire must be judiciously regulated, the proper quantity of water must be kept up in the pot, and the scum which rises to the surface must be carefully removed.
556. Boiling, or cooking meat in hot water, is one of the simplest cooking methods, but it requires careful attention. Boiled meat should be tender, flavorful, and retain its own juices, or natural gravy; however, due to the negligence and lack of knowledge among cooks, it’s often served tough, bland, and lacking nutrition. To achieve good results when boiling meat, the heat must be carefully controlled, the right amount of water should be maintained in the pot, and the foam that rises to the top must be regularly skimmed off.
557. MANY WRITERS ON COOKERY assert that the meat to be boiled should be put into cold water, and that the pot should be heated gradually; but Liebig, the highest authority on all matters connected with the chemistry of food, has shown that meat so treated loses some of its most nutritious constituents. "If the flesh," says the great chemist, "be introduced into the boiler when the water is in a state of brisk ebullition, and if the boiling be kept up for a few minutes, and the pot then placed in a warm place, so that the temperature of the water is kept at 158° to 165°, we have the united conditions for giving to the flesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten." When a piece of meat is plunged into boiling water, the albumen which is near the surface immediately coagulates, forming an envelope, which prevents the escape of the internal juice, and most effectually excludes the water, which, by mixing with this juice, would render the meat insipid. Meat treated thus is juicy and well-flavoured, when cooked, as it retains most of its savoury constituents. On the other hand, if the piece of meat be set on the fire with cold water, and this slowly heated to boiling, the flesh undergoes a loss of soluble and nutritious substances, while, as a matter of course, the soup becomes richer in these matters. The albumen is gradually dissolved from the surface to the centre; the fibre loses, more or less, its quality of shortness or tenderness, and becomes hard and tough: the thinner the piece of meat is, the greater is its loss of savoury constituents. In order to obtain well-flavoured and eatable meat, we must relinquish the idea of making good soup from it, as that mode of boiling which yields the best soup gives the driest, toughest, and most vapid meat. Slow boiling whitens the meat; and, we suspect, that it is on this account that it is in such favour with the cooks. The wholesomeness of food is, however, a matter of much greater moment than the appearance it presents on the table. It should be borne in mind, that the whiteness of meat that has been boiled slowly, is produced by the loss of some important alimentary properties.
557. MANY COOKBOOK AUTHORS claim that meat should be put into cold water for boiling, and that the pot should be heated gradually. However, Liebig, the foremost expert on food chemistry, has demonstrated that this method causes meat to lose some of its most nutritious components. "If the meat," says the renowned chemist, "is placed in boiling water, and if it is cooked for a few minutes before being moved to a warm spot where the water temperature stays between 158° and 165°, we create the best conditions for retaining the qualities of the meat that make it suitable for eating." When a piece of meat is immersed in boiling water, the albumen near the surface quickly coagulates, forming a barrier that prevents the internal juices from escaping and keeps out the water, which would dilute these juices and make the meat bland. Meat cooked this way is juicy and flavorful because it retains most of its tasty components. On the flip side, if you start with cold water and heat it slowly, the meat loses soluble and nutritious substances, and the broth becomes richer in those nutrients. The albumen gradually dissolves from the outside to the inside; the fibers lose their tenderness and become hard and tough. The thinner the piece of meat, the greater the loss of flavor. To achieve well-flavored and enjoyable meat, we have to let go of the idea that we can make great soup from it, as the best soup originates from boiling that yields dry, tough, and bland meat. Slow boiling makes the meat pale, which is likely why this method is popular with cooks. However, the healthiness of food is far more important than its presentation. It's important to remember that the pale color of slowly boiled meat is a result of losing some essential nutritional properties.
558. THE OBJECTIONS WE HAVE RAISED to the practice of putting meat on the fire in cold water, apply with equal force to the practice of soaking meat before cooking it, which is so strongly recommended by some cooks. Fresh meat ought never to be soaked, as all its most nutritive constituents are soluble in water. Soaking, however, is an operation that cannot be entirely dispensed with in the preparation of animal food. Salted and dried meats require to be soaked for some time in water before they are cooked.
558. THE OBJECTIONS WE'VE RAISED about cooking meat in cold water also apply to soaking meat before cooking, a method that's highly recommended by some chefs. Fresh meat should never be soaked, as all its most nutritious components dissolve in water. However, soaking is a step that can't be completely skipped when preparing meat. Salted and dried meats need to be soaked in water for a while before they’re cooked.
559. FOR BOILING MEAT, the softer the water is, the better. When spring water is boiled, the chalk which gives to it the quality of hardness, is precipitated. This chalk stains the meat, and communicates to it an unpleasant earthy taste. When nothing but hard water can be procured, it should be softened by boiling it for an hour or two before it is used for culinary purposes.
559. FOR BOILING MEAT, the softer the water, the better. When spring water is boiled, the chalk that makes it hard settles out. This chalk can stain the meat and give it a bad earthy taste. If only hard water is available, it should be softened by boiling it for an hour or two before using it for cooking.
560. THE FIRE MUST BE WATCHED with great attention during the operation of boiling, so that its heat may be properly regulated. As a rule, the pot should be kept in a simmering state; a result which cannot be attained without vigilance.
560. THE FIRE MUST BE WATCHED carefully during the boiling process to ensure the heat is properly controlled. Generally, the pot should be kept at a simmer; this outcome can’t be achieved without close attention.
561. THE TEMPERATURE AT WHICH WATER BOILS, under usual circumstances, is 212° Fahr. Water does not become hotter after it has begun to boil, however long or with whatever violence the boiling is continued. This fact is of great importance in cookery, and attention to it will save much fuel. Water made to boil in a gentle way by the application of a moderate heat is just as hot as when it is made to boil on a strong fire with the greatest possible violence. When once water has been brought to the boiling point, the fire may be considerably reduced, as a very gentle heat will suffice to keep the water at its highest temperature.
561. THE TEMPERATURE AT WHICH WATER BOILS, under normal conditions, is 212° F. Water doesn’t get hotter after it starts boiling, no matter how long or intensely it’s boiled. This is really important for cooking, and paying attention to it can save a lot of energy. Water that’s brought to a boil gently with moderate heat is just as hot as water that’s boiled vigorously over a high flame. Once the water reaches the boiling point, the heat can be lowered significantly because a very mild heat is enough to maintain the water at its maximum temperature.
562. THE SCUM WHICH RISES to the surface of the pot during the operation of boiling must be carefully removed, otherwise it will attach itself to the meat, and thereby spoil its appearance. The cook must not neglect to skim during the whole process, though by far the greater part of the scum rises at first. The practice of wrapping meat in a cloth may be dispensed with if the skimming be skillfully managed. If the scum be removed as fast as it rises, the meat will be cooked clean and pure, and come out of the vessel in which it was boiled, much more delicate and firm than when cooked in a cloth.
562. THE FOAM THAT RISES to the top of the pot while boiling needs to be removed carefully; otherwise, it will stick to the meat and ruin its appearance. The cook should not forget to skim throughout the entire process, although most of the foam emerges at the beginning. You can skip the step of wrapping the meat in a cloth if you manage the skimming well. If the foam is removed quickly as it rises, the meat will be cooked clean and pure, resulting in a dish that is much more tender and firm than when it is cooked in a cloth.
563. WHEN TAKEN FROM THE POT, the meat must be wiped with a clean cloth, or, what will be found more convenient, a sponge previously dipped in water and wrung dry. The meat should not be allowed to stand a moment longer than necessary, as boiled meat, as well as roasted, cannot be eaten too hot.
563. WHEN TAKEN OUT OF THE POT, the meat should be wiped with a clean cloth or, more conveniently, a sponge that has been dipped in water and wrung out. The meat shouldn’t be left to stand any longer than necessary, since both boiled and roasted meat can’t be eaten when they’re too hot.
564. THE TIME ALLOWED FOR THE OPERATION OF BOILING must be regulated according to the size and quality of the meat. As a general rule, twenty minutes, reckoning from the moment when the boiling commences, may be allowed for every pound of meat. All the best authorities, however, agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation.
564. THE TIME ALLOWED FOR THE OPERATION OF BOILING must be adjusted based on the size and quality of the meat. As a general guideline, you should allow twenty minutes for every pound of meat, starting from when the water begins to boil. However, all the top authorities agree that the longer you boil it, the better the result.
565. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF SALTED MEAT may be properly introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry salt in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. The application of salt causes the fibres of the meat to contract, and the juice to flow out from its pores: as much as one-third of the juice of the meat is often forced out in this manner. Now, as this juice is pure extract of meat, containing albumen, osmazome, and other valuable principles, it follows that meat which has been preserved by the action of salt can never have the nutritive properties of fresh meat.
565. A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF SALTED MEAT can be appropriately mentioned here. Every homemaker knows that dry salt touches fresh meat and gradually turns into liquid brine. When salt is applied, the fibers of the meat contract, causing the juices to seep out of its pores: often, as much as one-third of the meat's juice is expelled this way. Since this juice is a pure extract of meat, containing albumen, osmazome, and other valuable components, it follows that meat preserved by salt cannot have the same nutritional value as fresh meat.
566. THE VESSELS USED FOR BOILING should be made of cast-iron, well tinned within, and provided with closely-fitting lids. They must be kept scrupulously clean, otherwise they will render the meat cooked in them unsightly and unwholesome. Copper pans, if used at all, should be reserved for operations that are performed with rapidity; as, by long contact with copper, food may become dangerously contaminated. The kettle in which a joint is dressed should be large enough to allow room for a good supply of water; if the meat be cramped and be surrounded with but little water, it will be stewed, not boiled.
566. THE VESSELS USED FOR BOILING should be made of cast iron, well-tinned on the inside, and have tightly-fitting lids. They need to be kept very clean; otherwise, they can make the meat cooked in them look bad and unhealthy. Copper pans, if used at all, should be reserved for quick cooking, as prolonged contact with copper can contaminate food dangerously. The kettle used for preparing a joint should be large enough to allow a good amount of water; if the meat is cramped and surrounded by only a little water, it will be stewed, not boiled.
567. IN STEWING, IT IS NOT REQUISITE to have so great a heat as in boiling. A gentle simmering in a small quantity of water, so that the meat is stewed almost in its own juices, is all that is necessary. It is a method much used on the continent, and is wholesome and economical.
567. IN STEWING, YOU DON'T NEED as high a heat as in boiling. A gentle simmer in a small amount of water, so the meat cooks mostly in its own juices, is all you need. This method is commonly used in Europe and is both healthy and cost-effective.
[Illustration: BOILING-POT.]
[Illustration: POT ON STOVE.]
[Illustration: STEWPAN.]
[Illustration: Saucepan.]
Two useful culinary vessels are represented above. One is a boiling-pot, in which large joints may be boiled; the other is a stewpan, with a closely-fitting lid, to which is attached a long handle; so that the cover can be removed without scalding the fingers.
Two useful cooking pots are shown above. One is a boiling pot, perfect for boiling large cuts of meat; the other is a stewpan, which has a tightly fitting lid and a long handle, allowing you to remove the cover without burning your fingers.
[Illustration: HOT-PLATE.]
[Illustration: HOT PLATE.]
568. THE HOT-PLATE is a modern improvement on the old kitchen ranges, being used for boiling and stewing. It is a plate of cast iron, having a closed fire burning beneath it, by which it is thoroughly well heated. On this plate are set the various saucepans, stewpans, &c.; and, by this convenient and economical method, a number of dishes may be prepared at one time. The culinary processes of braising and stewing are, in this manner, rendered more gradual, and consequently the substance acted on becomes more tender, and the gravy is not so much reduced.
568. THE HOT-PLATE is a modern upgrade to the old kitchen ranges, used for boiling and stewing. It’s a cast iron plate with a closed fire underneath that heats it up thoroughly. Various saucepans, stewpans, etc., are placed on this plate, allowing multiple dishes to be prepared simultaneously in a convenient and cost-effective way. The cooking methods of braising and stewing become more gradual, making the ingredients more tender and resulting in less reduction of the gravy.
BROILING.
[Illustration: REVOLVING GRIDIRON.]
[Illustration: REVOLVING GRILL.]
569. GENERALLY SPEAKING, small dishes only are prepared by this mode of cooking; amongst these, the beef-steak and mutton chop of the solitary English diner may be mentioned as celebrated all the world over. Our beef-steak, indeed, has long crossed the Channel; and, with a view of pleasing the Britons, there is in every carte at every French restaurant, by the side of à la Marengo, and à la Mayonnaise,—bifteck d'Angleterre. In order to succeed in a broil, the cook must have a bright, clear fire; so that the surface of the meat may be quickly heated. The result of this is the same as that obtained in roasting; namely, that a crust, so to speak, is formed outside, and thus the juices of the meat are retained. The appetite of an invalid, so difficult to minister to, is often pleased with a broiled dish, as the flavour and sapidity of the meat are so well preserved.
569. Generally speaking, this cooking method is used mainly for small dishes; among these, the beef steak and mutton chop enjoyed by the lone English diner are famous around the world. Our beef steak has indeed made its way across the Channel; to cater to British tastes, every menu at French restaurants features, alongside dishes like à la Marengo and à la Mayonnaise, bifteck d'Angleterre. For a successful broil, the cook needs a bright, clear fire so that the surface of the meat heats up quickly. The outcome is similar to roasting: a crust forms on the outside, which helps retain the juices of the meat. This makes broiled dishes appealing to those with delicate appetites, as the flavor and juiciness of the meat are well preserved.
570. THE UTENSILS USED FOR BROILING need but little description. The common gridiron, for which see engraving at No. 68, is the same as it has been for ages past, although some little variety has been introduced into its manufacture, by the addition of grooves to the bars, by means of which the liquid fat is carried into a small trough. One point it is well to bear in mind, viz., that the gridiron should be kept in a direction slanting towards the cook, so that as little fat as possible may fall into the fire. It has been observed, that broiling is the most difficult manual office the general cook has to perform, and one that requires the most unremitting attention; for she may turn her back upon the stewpan or the spit, but the gridiron can never be left with impunity. The revolving gridiron, shown in the engraving, possesses some advantages of convenience, which will be at once apparent.
570. THE UTENSILS USED FOR BROILING need little explanation. The common grill, which you can see in the engraving at No. 68, has remained mostly the same for ages, although there are some small variations in its design, like the addition of grooves to the bars that help collect liquid fat in a small trough. One important thing to remember is that the grill should be angled toward the cook, so as little fat as possible falls into the fire. It has been noted that broiling is the most challenging task a general cook has to handle and requires constant attention; the cook can turn her back on the stewpan or the spit, but she can never safely leave the grill unattended. The revolving grill, shown in the engraving, offers some convenient advantages that become immediately obvious.
FRYING.
[Illustration: SAUTÉ PAN.]
[Illustration: Sauté Pan.]
571. THIS VERY FAVOURITE MODE OF COOKING may be accurately described as boiling in fat or oil. Substances dressed in this way are generally well received, for they introduce an agreeable variety, possessing, as they do, a peculiar flavour. By means of frying, cooks can soon satisfy many requisitions made on them, it being a very expeditious mode of preparing dishes for the table, and one which can be employed when the fire is not sufficiently large for the purposes of roasting and boiling. The great point to be borne in mind in frying, is that the liquid must be hot enough to act instantaneously, as all the merit of this culinary operation lies in the invasion of the boiling liquid, which carbonizes or burns, at the very instant of the immersion of the body placed in it. It may be ascertained if the fat is heated to the proper degree, by cutting a piece of bread and dipping it in the frying-pan for five or six seconds; and if it be firm and of a dark brown when taken out, put in immediately what you wish to prepare; if it be not, let the fat be heated until of the right temperature. This having been effected, moderate the fire, so that the action may not be too hurried, and that by a continuous heat the juices of the substance may be preserved, and its flavour enhanced.
571. THIS VERY POPULAR WAY OF COOKING can be described as frying in fat or oil. Foods cooked this way are usually well-received because they add a nice variety and have a unique flavor. By frying, cooks can quickly meet many demands, as it’s a fast method for preparing dishes for the table, especially when the fire isn’t big enough for roasting or boiling. The key point to remember when frying is that the oil must be hot enough to work immediately, since the success of this cooking method depends on the hot liquid that crisps or burns the food right as it’s placed in. You can test if the fat is at the right temperature by cutting a piece of bread and dipping it in the frying pan for five or six seconds; if it comes out firm and dark brown, you can put in whatever you want to cook. If not, let the fat heat up until it reaches the right temperature. Once that’s done, reduce the heat so that the cooking isn’t rushed, allowing a steady heat to keep the food’s juices intact and enhance its flavor.
572. THE PHILOSOPHY OF FRYING consists in this, that liquids subjected to the action of fire do not all receive the same quantity of heat. Being differently constituted in their nature, they possess different "capacities for caloric." Thus, you may, with impunity, dip your finger in boiling spirits of wine; you would take it very quickly from boiling brandy, yet more rapidly from water; whilst the effects of the most rapid immersion in boiling oil need not be told. As a consequence of this, heated fluids act differently on the sapid bodies presented to them. Those put in water, dissolve, and are reduced to a soft mass; the result being bouillon, stock, &c. (see No. 103). Those substances, on the contrary, treated with oil, harden, assume a more or less deep colour, and are finally carbonized. The reason of these different results is, that, in the first instance, water dissolves and extracts the interior juices of the alimentary substances placed in it; whilst, in the second, the juices are preserved; for they are insoluble in oil.
572. THE PHILOSOPHY OF FRYING is based on the idea that liquids heated by fire don’t all absorb the same amount of heat. Because they’re made up differently, they have different "capacities for heat." For example, you can dip your finger in boiling alcohol without much harm, but you’d quickly pull it out of boiling brandy, even faster from water; and the consequences of dipping it in boiling oil are well-known. As a result, heated liquids interact differently with food. When food is placed in water, it dissolves and becomes a soft mass, resulting in broth, stock, etc. (see No. 103). In contrast, when food is cooked in oil, it hardens, takes on a deeper color, and can eventually get burned. The reason for these different outcomes is that water dissolves and extracts the inner juices of the food items placed in it, while in oil, those juices are retained since they don’t dissolve in it.
573. IT IS TO BE ESPECIALLY REMEMBERED, in connection with frying, that all dishes fried in fat should be placed before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper, or sieve reversed, and there left for a few minutes, so that any superfluous greasy moisture may be removed.
573. IT IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT to remember, when frying, that all dishes fried in fat should be placed before the fire on a piece of blotting paper or an inverted sieve, and left there for a few minutes, so that any excess greasy moisture can be removed.
574. THE UTENSILS USED FOR THE PURPOSES OF FRYING are confined to frying-pans, although these are of various sizes; and, for small and delicate dishes, such as collops, fritters, pancakes, &c., the sauté pan, of which we give an engraving, is used.
574. THE UTENSILS USED FOR FRYING are limited to frying pans, which come in different sizes; for smaller and more delicate dishes, like cutlets, fritters, pancakes, etc., the sauté pan, of which we provide an image, is used.
COOKING BY GAS.
[Illustration: GAS STOVE.]
[Illustration: Gas stove.]
575. GAS-COOKING can scarcely now be considered a novelty,—many establishments, both small and large, have been fitted with apparatus for cooking by this mode, which undoubtedly exhibits some advantages. Thus the heat may be more regularly supplied to the substance cooking, and the operation is essentially a clean one, because there can be no cinders or other dirt to be provided for. Some labour and attention necessary, too, with a coal fire or close stove, may be saved; and, besides this, it may, perhaps, be said that culinary operations are reduced, by this means, to something like a certainty.
575. GAS COOKING can hardly be seen as a novelty anymore—many establishments, both small and large, have been equipped with appliances for this method, which clearly has some benefits. For one, the heat can be delivered more consistently to the food being cooked, and the process is fundamentally cleaner because there are no ashes or other mess to manage. It also saves some effort and attention that would typically be required with a coal fire or a closed stove; in addition, it could be said that cooking now has a level of predictability.
576. THERE ARE, HOWEVER, WE THINK, MANY OBJECTIONS to this mode of cooking, more especially when applied to small domestic establishments. For instance, the ingenious machinery necessary for carrying it out, requires cooks perfectly conversant with its use; and if the gas, when the cooking operations are finished, be not turned off, there will be a large increase in the cost of cooking, instead of the economy which it has been supposed to bring. For large establishments, such as some of the immense London warehouses, where a large number of young men have to be catered for daily, it may be well adapted, as it is just possible that a slight increase in the supply of gas necessary for a couple of joints, may serve equally to cook a dozen dishes.
576. THERE ARE, HOWEVER, WE BELIEVE, MANY OBJECTIONS to this way of cooking, especially when applied to small households. For example, the clever machinery needed to make it work requires cooks who are thoroughly trained in its use; and if the gas isn’t turned off after cooking is done, the cost of cooking will rise significantly instead of saving money as it was expected to do. For large establishments, like some of the massive warehouses in London, where many young men need to be served daily, it might be suitable since a slight increase in gas needed for a couple of roasts could potentially cook a dozen dishes.
ROASTING.
577. OF THE VARIOUS METHODS OF PREPARING MEAT, ROASTING is that which most effectually preserves its nutritive qualities. Meat is roasted by being exposed to the direct influence of the fire. This is done by placing the meat before an open grate, and keeping it in motion to prevent the scorching on any particular part. When meat is properly roasted, the outer layer of its albumen is coagulated, and thus presents a barrier to the exit of the juice. In roasting meat, the heat must be strongest at first, and it should then be much reduced. To have a good juicy roast, therefore, the fire must be red and vigorous at the very commencement of the operation. In the most careful roasting, some of the juice is squeezed out of the meat: this evaporates on the surface of the meat, and gives it a dark brown colour, a rich lustre, and a strong aromatic taste. Besides these effects on the albumen and the expelled juice, roasting converts the cellular tissue of the meat into gelatine, and melts the fat out of the fat-cells.
577. OF THE VARIOUS METHODS OF PREPARING MEAT, ROASTING is the most effective way to keep its nutrition intact. Meat is roasted by being placed directly in front of the fire. This involves positioning the meat before an open flame and continuously moving it to avoid burning any one spot. When meat is properly roasted, the outer layer of its protein coagulates, creating a barrier that retains the juices. Initially, the heat should be intense, and then it should be reduced significantly. For a juicy roast, the fire needs to be bright and strong at the start of cooking. Even with careful roasting, some juices are lost from the meat; these evaporate on the surface, giving it a dark brown color, a shiny appearance, and a robust flavor. In addition to affecting the protein and the lost juices, roasting transforms the meat's cellular structure into gelatin and melts the fat from the fat cells.
578. IF A SPIT is used to support the meat before the fire, it should be kept quite bright. Sand and water ought to be used to scour it with, for brickdust and oil may give a disagreeable taste to the meat. When well scoured, it must be wiped quite dry with a clean cloth; and, in spitting the meat, the prime parts should be left untouched, so as to avoid any great escape of its juices.
578. IF A SPIKE is used to hold the meat over the fire, it should be kept shiny. You should use sand and water to clean it, because brick dust and oil can leave an unpleasant taste on the meat. Once it's clean, it should be wiped completely dry with a clean cloth; and when skewering the meat, the best parts should be left untouched to prevent too much loss of its juices.
579. KITCHENS IN LARGE ESTABLISHMENTS are usually fitted with what are termed "smoke-jacks." By means of these, several spits, if required, may be turned at the same time. This not being, of course, necessary in smaller establishments, a roasting apparatus, more economical in its consumption of coal, is more frequently in use.
579. KITCHENS IN LARGE ESTABLISHMENTS are usually equipped with what's called "smoke-jacks." These allow multiple spits to be turned at the same time if needed. This isn't necessary in smaller establishments, where a roasting device that uses less coal is more commonly used.
[Illustration: BOTTLE-JACK, WITH WHEEL AND HOOK.]
[Illustration: BOTTLE-JACK, WITH WHEEL AND HOOK.]
580. THE BOTTLE-JACK, of which we here give an illustration, with the wheel and hook, and showing the precise manner of using it, is now commonly used in many kitchens. This consists of a spring inclosed in a brass cylinder, and requires winding up before it is used, and sometimes, also, during the operation of roasting. The joint is fixed to an iron hook, which is suspended by a chain connected with a wheel, and which, in its turn, is connected with the bottle-jack. Beneath it stands the dripping-pan, which we have also engraved, together with the basting-ladle, the use of which latter should not be spared; as there can be no good roast without good basting. "Spare the rod, and spoil the child," might easily be paraphrased into "Spare the basting, and spoil the meat." If the joint is small and light, and so turns unsteadily, this may be remedied by fixing to the wheel one of the kitchen weights. Sometimes this jack is fixed inside a screen; but there is this objection to this apparatus,—that the meat cooked in it resembles the flavour of baked meat. This is derived from its being so completely surrounded with the tin, that no sufficient current of air gets to it. It will be found preferable to make use of a common meat-screen, such as is shown in the woodcut. This contains shelves for warming plates and dishes; and with this, the reflection not being so powerful, and more air being admitted to the joint, the roast may be very excellently cooked.
580. The bottle-jack, which we illustrate here with the wheel and hook, and showing exactly how to use it, is commonly found in many kitchens today. It consists of a spring enclosed in a brass cylinder and needs to be wound up before use, and sometimes again during the roasting process. The meat is attached to an iron hook that is suspended by a chain linked to a wheel, which in turn is connected to the bottle-jack. Below it is the dripping pan, which we have also illustrated, along with the basting ladle, the use of which should not be overlooked, as there can be no good roast without proper basting. "Spare the rod, and spoil the child," could easily be rephrased as "Spare the basting, and spoil the meat." If the joint is small and light, causing it to turn unevenly, you can solve this by attaching one of the kitchen weights to the wheel. Sometimes, this jack is placed inside a screen, but the downside of this setup is that the meat cooked in it tastes like baked meat. This happens because it is so completely surrounded by tin that it doesn't get enough air circulation. It’s better to use a regular meat screen, like the one shown in the illustration. This type includes shelves for warming plates and dishes, and with less intense reflection and more air getting to the joint, the roast can be cooked very nicely.
[Illustration: DRIPPING-PAN AND BASTING-LADLE.]
[Illustration: Dripping pan and basting ladle.]
581. IN STIRRING THE FIRE, or putting fresh coals on it, the dripping-pan should always be drawn back, so that there may be no danger of the coal, cinders, or ashes falling down into it.
581. WHEN STIRRING THE FIRE, or adding fresh coals, the dripping pan should always be pulled back to prevent any coal, cinders, or ashes from falling into it.
582. UNDER EACH PARTICULAR RECIPE there is stated the time required for roasting each joint; but, as a general rule, it may be here given, that for every pound of meat, in ordinary-sized joints, a quarter of an hour may be allotted.
582. UNDER EACH SPECIFIC RECIPE, the cooking time for roasting each cut of meat is provided; however, as a general guideline, it can be stated that for every pound of meat in standard-sized cuts, about 15 minutes should be allowed.
[Illustration: HEAT-SCREEN.]
[Illustration: HEAT SCREEN.]
583. WHITE MEATS, AND THE MEAT OF YOUNG ANIMALS, require to be very well roasted, both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion. Thus veal, pork, and lamb, should be thoroughly done to the centre.
583. WHITE MEATS, AND THE MEAT OF YOUNG ANIMALS, need to be cooked very well, both to taste good and to be easy to digest. So, veal, pork, and lamb should be fully cooked to the center.
584. MUTTON AND BEEF, on the other hand, do not, generally speaking, require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be dressed to the point, that, in carving them, the gravy should just run, but not too freely. Of course in this, as in most other dishes, the tastes of individuals vary; and there are many who cannot partake, with satisfaction, of any joint unless it is what others would call overdressed.
584. MUTTON AND BEEF, on the other hand, typically don’t need to be cooked all the way through, and they should be prepared just right so that when you carve them, the juices should run a bit, but not too much. Of course, like with most dishes, personal preferences differ; there are many who can’t enjoy a roast unless it’s what others would consider overcooked.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
QUADRUPEDS.
CHAPTER XII.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS.
585. BY THE GENERAL ASSENT OF MANKIND, THE EMPIRE OF NATURE has been divided into three kingdoms; the first consisting of minerals, the second of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdom comprises all substances which are without those organs necessary to locomotion, and the due performance of the functions of life. They are composed of the accidental aggregation of particles, which, under certain circumstances, take a constant and regular figure, but which are more frequently found without any definite conformation. They also occupy the interior parts of the earth, as well as compose those huge masses by which we see the land in some parts guarded against the encroachments of the sea. The Vegetable Kingdom covers and beautifies the earth with an endless variety of form and colour. It consists of organized bodies, but destitute of the power of locomotion. They are nourished by means of roots; they breathe by means of leaves; and propagate by means of seed, dispersed within certain limits. The Animal Kingdom consists of sentient beings, that enliven the external parts of the earth. They possess the powers of voluntary motion, respire air, and are forced into action by the cravings of hunger or the parching of thirst, by the instincts of animal passion, or by pain. Like the vegetable kingdom, they are limited within the boundaries of certain countries by the conditions of climate and soil; and some of the species prey upon each other. Linnaeus has divided them into six classes;—Mammalia, Birds, Fishes, Amphibious Animals, Insects, and Worms. The three latter do not come within the limits of our domain; of fishes we have already treated, of birds we shall treat, and of mammalia we will now treat.
585. BY THE GENERAL CONSENSUS OF HUMANITY, THE KINGDOM OF NATURE has been divided into three categories: the first includes minerals, the second includes plants, and the third includes animals. The Mineral Kingdom consists of all substances that lack the organs necessary for movement and the essential functions of life. These substances are formed by the random clustering of particles, which sometimes take on a consistent and regular shape, but are more often found without any defined structure. They are also found within the earth and make up the large masses that protect the land in some areas from the encroaching sea. The Vegetable Kingdom covers and adorns the earth with an endless variety of shapes and colors. It is made up of organized structures, but these do not have the ability to move. They get their nutrients through roots, breathe through leaves, and reproduce through seeds, which are spread within certain limits. The Animal Kingdom includes sentient beings that inhabit the outer parts of the earth. They have the ability to move voluntarily, breathe air, and are driven into action by the urges of hunger or thirst, by instinctual drives, or by pain. Like the plant kingdom, they are restricted to certain regions based on climate and soil conditions, and some species hunt others. Linnaeus categorized them into six classes: Mammals, Birds, Fish, Amphibians, Insects, and Worms. The last three categories do not fall within our current focus; we have already discussed fish, will discuss birds next, and will now focus on mammals.
586. THIS CLASS OF ANIMALS embraces all those that nourish their young by means of lacteal glands, or teats, and are so constituted as to have a warm or red blood. In it the whale is placed,—an order which, from external habits, has usually been classed with the fishes; but, although this animal exclusively inhabits the water, and is supplied with fins, it nevertheless exhibits a striking alliance to quadrupeds. It has warm blood, and produces its young alive; it nourishes them with milk, and, for that purpose, is furnished with teats. It is also supplied with lungs, and two auricles and two ventricles to the heart; all of which bring it still closer into an alliance with the quadrupedal species of the animal kingdom.
586. THIS CLASS OF ANIMALS includes all those that feed their young with milk from glands, or teats, and have warm or red blood. The whale is part of this group—a classification that is often based on its outward behavior, which has led to its usual association with fish. However, even though this animal lives entirely in water and has fins, it shows a strong connection to land mammals. It has warm blood and gives birth to live young, feeding them with milk through its teats. It also has lungs, and its heart has two atria and two ventricles, which further aligns it with the quadrupedal species in the animal kingdom.
587. THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAMMALIA have been frequently noticed. The bodies of nearly the whole species are covered with hair, a kind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable to injury, and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal and the nature of the climate it inhabits. In all the higher orders of animals, the head is the principal seat of the organs of sense. It is there that the eyes, the ears, the nose, and the mouth are placed. Through the last they receive their nourishment. In it are the teeth, which, in most of the mammalia, are used not only for the mastication of food, but as weapons of offence. They are inserted into two movable bones called jaws, and the front teeth are so placed that their sharp edges may easily be brought in contact with their food, in order that its fibres may readily be separated. Next to these, on each side, are situated the canine teeth, or tusks, which are longer than the other teeth, and, being pointed, are used to tear the food. In the back jaws are placed another form of teeth, called grinders. These are for masticating the food; and in those animals that live on vegetables, they are flattened at the top; but, in carnivora, their upper surfaces are furnished with sharp-pointed protuberances. From the numbers, form, and disposition of the teeth, the various genera of quadrupeds have been arranged. The nose is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two holes, which are called nostrils. Through these the animal is affected by the sense of smell; and in some it is prominent, whilst in others it is flat, compressed, turned upwards, or bent downwards. In beasts of prey, it is frequently longer than the lips; and in some other animals it is elongated into a movable trunk or proboscis, whilst, in the rhinoceros tribe, it is armed with a horn. The eyes of quadrupeds are generally defended by movable lids, on the outer margins of which are fringes of hair, called eyelashes. The opening of the pupil is in general circular; but to some species, as in those of the Cat and Hare, it is contracted into a perpendicular line, whilst in the Horse, the Ox, and a few others, it forms a transverse bar. The ears are openings, generally accompanied with a cartilage which defends and covers them, called the external ears. In water-animals the latter are wanting; sound, in them, being transmitted merely through orifices in the head, which have the name of auditory-holes. The most defenceless animals are extremely delicate in the sense of hearing, as are likewise most beasts of prey. Most of the mammiferous animals walk on four feet, which, at the extremities, are usually divided into toes or fingers. In some, however, the feet end in a single corneous substance called a hoof. The toes of a few end in broad, flat nails, and of most others, in pointed claws. Some, again, have the toes connected by a membrane, which is adapted to those that are destined to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water. Others, again, as in the Bat, have the digitations of the anterior feet greatly elongated, the intervening space being filled by a membrane, which extends round the hinder legs and tail, and by means of which they are enabled to rise into the air. In Man, the hand alone comprises fingers, separate, free, and flexible; but Apes, and some other kinds of animals, have fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore, are the only animals that can hold movable objects in a single hand. Others, such as Rats and Squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small and flexible to enable them to pick up objects; but they are compelled to hold them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and must rest on the fore-feet, as is the case with dogs and cats when they wish to hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There are still others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin, or enveloped in corneous hoofs, and are thereby enabled to exercise no prehensile power whatever.
587. THE GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF MAMMALS have been frequently noted. The bodies of almost all species are covered with hair, a soft and warm type of covering that is not easily damaged and is adapted to the needs of the animal and the climate it lives in. In all higher animals, the head is the main area for the sense organs. This is where the eyes, ears, nose, and mouth are located. The mouth is where they take in their food. It contains the teeth, which in most mammals are used not only for chewing but also as offensive weapons. The teeth are set in two movable bones known as jaws, with the front teeth arranged so that their sharp edges can easily contact food, allowing its fibers to be separated. Next to these, on each side, are the canine teeth, or tusks, which are longer and pointed, used for tearing food. At the back of the jaws are another type of teeth called grinders. These are for chewing food; in animals that eat plants, they are flat on top, while in carnivores, they have sharp, pointed bumps on the upper surfaces. The variety of teeth shapes and arrangements helps categorize different types of quadrupeds. The nose is a cartilaginous structure with two holes called nostrils. Through these, the animal senses smell; in some animals, the nose is prominent, while in others, it’s flat, compressed, turned upwards, or bent downwards. In predators, it’s often longer than the lips. Some animals have an elongated trunk or proboscis, and in rhinoceroses, the nose has a horn. The eyes of quadrupeds are typically protected by movable lids, fringed with hair called eyelashes. The pupil is usually circular, but in some species like cats and hares, it’s a vertical line, and in horses, cattle, and a few others, it forms a horizontal bar. The ears are openings usually covered by cartilage, known as external ears. In aquatic animals, these are absent; sound is transmitted through openings in the head known as auditory holes. The most vulnerable animals have very acute hearing, as do most predators. Most mammals walk on four limbs, which usually have toes or fingers at the ends. However, some have feet that end in a single hard structure called a hoof. A few species end in broad, flat nails, while most have pointed claws. Some have toes connected by webbing, suited for living a significant part of their lives in water. Others, like bats, have greatly elongated finger bones on their front limbs, with the gaps filled by a membrane that extends around the hind legs and tail, helping them fly. In humans, the hand has separate, free, and flexible fingers, while apes and some other animals have fingers on both hands and feet. These are the only ones that can grasp movable objects with a single hand. Others, like rats and squirrels, have small, flexible fingers that allow them to pick up objects, but they need to use both hands. Some possess shorter toes and must balance on their forelimbs, as dogs and cats do when they want to hold something firmly with their paws. There are even others with toes fused together and tucked under the skin, or covered by hard hooves, which prevents them from having any grasping ability whatsoever.
588. ACCORDING TO THE DESIGN AND END OF NATURE, mammiferous animals are calculated, when arrived at maturity, to subsist on various kinds of food,—some to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs, or fruits; but in their infant state, milk is the appropriate food of the whole. That this food may never fail them, it is universally ordained, that the young should no sooner come into the world, than the milk should flow in abundance into the members with which the mother is supplied for the secretion of that nutritious fluid. By a wonderful instinct of Nature, too, the young animal, almost as soon as it has come into life, searches for the teat, and knows perfectly, at the first, how, by the process of suction, it will be able to extract the fluid necessary to its existence.
588. ACCORDING TO THE DESIGN AND PURPOSE OF NATURE, mammals are meant to eat different types of food once they reach maturity—some will eat only meat, while others will consume grains, plants, or fruits. However, when they are infants, milk is the right food for all of them. To ensure that this food is always available, it is universally arranged that as soon as the young are born, milk flows freely into the glands the mother has for producing this nourishing liquid. Through a remarkable instinct of Nature, the young animal, almost immediately after being born, seeks out the nipple and instinctively knows how to suck in order to obtain the vital fluid it needs to survive.
589. IN THE GENERAL ECONOMY OF NATURE, this class of animals seems destined to preserve a constant equilibrium in the number of animated beings that hold their existence on the surface of the earth. To man they are immediately useful in various ways. Some of their bodies afford him food, their skin shoes, and their fleece clothes. Some of them unite with him in participating the dangers of combat with an enemy, and others assist him in the chase, in exterminating wilder sorts, or banishing them from the haunts of civilization. Many, indeed, are injurious to him; but most of them, in some shape or other, he turns to his service. Of these there is none he has made more subservient to his purposes than the common ox, of which there is scarcely a part that he has not been able to convert into some useful purpose. Of the horns he makes drinking-vessels, knife-handles, combs, and boxes; and when they are softened by means of boiling water, he fashions them into transparent plates for lanterns. This invention is ascribed to King Alfred, who is said to have been the first to use them to preserve his candle time-measures from the wind. Glue is made of the cartilages, gristles, and the finer pieces of the parings and cuttings of the hides. Their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory. The thinnest of the calf-skins are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made the basis of Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine sort of thread prepared from their sinews. The hair is used in various valuable manufactures; the suet, fat, and tallow, are moulded into candles; and the milk and cream of the cow yield butter and cheese. Thus is every part of this animal valuable to man, who has spared no pains to bring it to the highest state of perfection.
589. IN THE GENERAL ECONOMY OF NATURE, this group of animals seems designed to maintain a steady balance in the population of living beings on the surface of the earth. They are immediately useful to humans in various ways. Some provide food, their skins are used for shoes, and their fleece is made into clothing. Some of them join humans in facing the dangers of combat with enemies, while others help in hunting, removing wild threats, or driving them away from settled areas. Many are indeed harmful, but most, in one way or another, are put to work for human benefit. None have been made more useful to humans than the common ox, of which there is hardly a part that hasn't been turned into something beneficial. From the horns, drinking vessels, knife handles, combs, and boxes are made; when softened in boiling water, they can be shaped into clear plates for lanterns. This invention is credited to King Alfred, who is said to be the first to use them to protect his candle time-measures from the wind. Glue is made from the cartilages, gristles, and finer cuttings of the hides. Their bones serve as a cheap substitute for ivory. The thinnest calfskins are turned into vellum. Their blood is used to create Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine thread made from their sinews. Hair is used in various valuable products; the suet, fat, and tallow are molded into candles; and the cow's milk and cream are used to make butter and cheese. Thus, every part of this animal is valuable to humans, who have gone to great lengths to perfect its use.
[Illustration: SHORT-HORN COW.]
[Illustration: SHORT-HORN COW.]
[Illustration: SHORT-HORN BULL.]
[Illustration: Short-Horn Bull.]
590. AMONG THE VARIOUS BREEDS OF THE OX, upon which man has bestowed his highest powers of culture, there is now none takes a higher place than that known by the name of Short-Horns. From the earliest ages, Great Britain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breeds of cattle, and there are none in England that have obtained greater celebrity than those which have this name, and which originated, about seventy years ago, on the banks of the Tees. Thence they have spread into the valleys of the Tweed; thence to the Lothians, in Scotland; and southward, into the fine pastures of England. They are now esteemed the most profitable breed of cattle, as there is no animal which attains sooner to maturity, and none that supplies meat of a superior quality. The value of some of the improved breeds is something enormous. At the sale of Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, in 1810, his bull "Comet" sold for 1,000 guineas. At the sale of Earl Spencer's herd in 1846, 104 cows, heifers, and calves, with nineteen bulls, fetched £8,468. 5s.; being an average of £68. 17s. apiece. The value of such animals is scarcely to be estimated by those who are unacquainted with the care with which they are tended, and with the anxious attention which is paid to the purity of their breed. A modern writer, well acquainted with this subject, says, "There are now, at least, five hundred herds, large and small, in this kingdom, and from six to seven thousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book." The necessity for thus recording the breeds is greater than might, at first sight, be imagined, as it tends directly to preserve the character of the cattle, while it sometimes adds to the value and reputation of the animal thus entered. Besides, many of the Americans, and large purchasers for the foreign market, will not look at an animal without the breeder has taken care to qualify him for such reference. Of short-horned stock, there is annually sold from £40,000 to £50,000 worth by public auction, independent of the vast numbers disposed of by private contract. The brood is highly prized in Belgium, Prussia, France, Italy, and Russia; it is imported into most of the British colonies, and is greatly esteemed both for its meat and its dairy produce, wherever it is known. The quickness with which it takes on flesh, and the weight which it frequently makes, are well known; but we may mention that it is not uncommon to tee steers of from four to five years old realize a weight of from 800 to 1,000 lbs. Such animals command from the butcher from £30 to £40 per head, according to the quality; whilst others, of two or three years old, and, of course, of less Weight, bring as much as £20 apiece.
590. AMONG THE VARIOUS BREEDS OF CATTLE that humans have developed to a high level, none is more esteemed than the breed known as Short-Horns. From ancient times, Great Britain has been recognized for the quality of its native cattle breeds, and none in England has achieved greater fame than these, which originated around seventy years ago along the banks of the Tees. They have since spread into the valleys of the Tweed, then to the Lothians in Scotland, and southward to the lush pastures of England. They are currently regarded as the most profitable breed of cattle because no other animal grows to maturity as quickly, and none provides superior quality meat. The worth of some of the improved breeds is incredibly high. At a sale in 1810 by Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, his bull "Comet" sold for 1,000 guineas. At the auction of Earl Spencer's herd in 1846, 104 cows, heifers, and calves, along with nineteen bulls, sold for £8,468. 5s.; averaging £68. 17s. each. The value of such animals is almost impossible to appreciate for those unfamiliar with the care involved and the dedicated attention given to maintaining their breed purity. A modern writer, well-versed in this topic, notes, "There are currently at least five hundred herds, both large and small, in this country, with six to seven thousand animals registered every other year in the herd-book." The necessity of recording these breeds is more significant than it might initially appear, as it directly helps preserve the quality of the cattle while sometimes increasing the value and reputation of the registered animals. Additionally, many Americans and major buyers for the foreign market will not consider an animal unless it has been properly qualified by the breeder for such verification. Each year, between £40,000 and £50,000 worth of Short-Horns is sold at public auctions, excluding the large numbers sold through private deals. This breed is highly valued in Belgium, Prussia, France, Italy, and Russia; it is imported into most British colonies and is greatly appreciated for both its meat and dairy production wherever it is known. The speed at which it gains weight is well-documented; it's not uncommon for steers aged four to five years to reach weights between 800 and 1,000 lbs. Such animals can command prices between £30 to £40 each from butchers, depending on quality, while others aged two or three years, and thus weighing less, can still sell for as much as £20 each.
[Illustration: LONG-HORN BULL.]
[Illustration: LONGHORN BULL.]
[Illustration: LONG-HORN COW.]
[Illustration: LONG-HORN COW.]
591. LONG-HORNS.—This is the prevailing breed in our midland counties and in Ireland; but they are greatly inferior to the short-horns, and are fast being supplanted by them. Even where they have been cultivated with the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection, they are inferior to the others, and must ultimately be driven from the farm.
591. LONG-HORNS.—This is the dominant breed in our midland counties and in Ireland; however, they are significantly inferior to the short-horns and are quickly being replaced by them. Even when they have been raised with great care and brought to their highest quality, they are still not as good as the others and will eventually be removed from the farm.
[Illustration: ALDERNEY COW.]
[Illustration: Alderney Cow.]
[Illustration: ALDERNEY BULL.]
[Illustration: ALDERNEY BULL.]
592. THE ALDERNEY.—Among the dairy breeds of England, the Alderney takes a prominent place, not on account of the quantity of milk which it yields, but on account of the excellent quality of the cream and butter which are produced from it. Its docility is marvellous, and in appearance it greatly resembles the Ayrshire breed of Scotland, the excellence of which is supposed to be, in some degree, derived from a mixture of the Alderney blood with that breed. The distinction between them, however, lies both in the quantity and quality of the milk which they severally produce; that of the Alderney being rich in quality, and that of the Ayrshire abundant in quantity. The merit of the former, however, ends with its milk, for as a grazer it is worthless.
592. THE ALDERNEY.—Among the dairy breeds in England, the Alderney stands out, not because it produces a lot of milk, but because of the excellent quality of the cream and butter made from it. Its temperament is amazing, and it looks a lot like the Ayrshire breed from Scotland, which is thought to be somewhat influenced by mixing with Alderney blood. However, the key difference between them is both the quantity and quality of the milk they produce; the Alderney's milk is rich in quality, while the Ayrshire's is plentiful. Nonetheless, the Alderney's only advantage is its milk, as it is not a good grazer.
[Illustration: GALLOWAY BULL.]
[Illustration: Galloway Bull.]
[Illustration: GALLOWAY COW.]
[Illustration: Galloway cow.]
593. SCOTTISH BREEDS.—Of these the Kyloe, which belongs to the Highlands of Scotland; the Galloway, which has been called the Kyloe without horns; and the Ayrshire, are the breeds most celebrated. The first has kept his place, and on account of the compactness of his form, and the excellent quality of his flesh, he is a great favourite with butchers who have a select family trade. It is alike unsuitable for the dairy and the arable farm; but in its native Highlands it attains to great perfection, thriving upon the scanty and coarse herbage which it gathers on the sides of the mountains. The Galloway has a larger frame, and when fattened makes excellent beef. But it has given place to the short-horns in its native district, where turnip-husbandry is pursued with advantage. The Ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for the dairy, and for the abundance of its milk cannot be surpassed in its native district. In this it stands unrivalled, and there is no other breed capable of converting the produce of a poor soil into such fine butter and cheese. It is difficult to fatten, however, and its beef is of a coarse quality. We have chosen these as among the principal representative breeds of the ox species; but there are other breeds which, at all events, have a local if not a general celebrity.
593. SCOTTISH BREEDS.—Among these, the Kyloe, native to the Highlands of Scotland; the Galloway, often referred to as the hornless Kyloe; and the Ayrshire are the most renowned breeds. The Kyloe has maintained its status, and due to its compact build and the high quality of its meat, it is a favorite among butchers who serve upscale clientele. It is not suitable for dairy or arable farming, but in its home territory, it thrives on the sparse and coarse vegetation found on the mountainsides. The Galloway has a larger frame and produces excellent beef when well-fed. However, it has been largely replaced by short-horned cattle in its local area, where turnip farming is more advantageous. The Ayrshire is particularly well-suited for dairy production, excelling in milk output in its native region. It stands unmatched in this respect, with no other breed turning poor soil produce into such quality butter and cheese. However, it is challenging to fatten, and its beef is of lower quality. We highlight these as some of the main representative breeds of the ox species, but there are other breeds that have local, if not wider, recognition.
[Illustration: SIDE OF BEEF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
[Illustration: SIDE OF BEEF, SHOWING THE VARIOUS JOINTS.]
594. The general Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by striking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head, a little above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given, the beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a cane is generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, which instantly deprives the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and some other countries on the continent, it is also usual to deprive oxen of life by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in the neck, close to the back part of the head. This is, in effect, the same mode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish bull-fights by the matador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation, if the operator be skilful. We hope and believe that those men whose disagreeable duty it is to slaughter the "beasts of the field" to provide meat for mankind, inflict as little punishment and cause as little suffering as possible.
594. The general way of slaughtering cattle in this country involves delivering a swift blow with a hammer or poleaxe to the head, just above the eyes. When done skillfully, this brings the animal down in one hit, and to prevent it from recovering, a stick is usually inserted to perforate the spinal cord, which instantly removes all sensation of pain from the ox. In Spain and some other countries on the continent, it's also common to end an ox's life by pithing or cutting the spinal cord in the neck, near the back of the head. This is essentially the same method used in the famous Spanish bullfights by the matador, and it instantly deprives the animal of sensation if the operator is skilled. We hope and believe that those whose difficult job it is to slaughter the "beasts of the field" to provide meat for people inflict as little pain and cause as little suffering as possible.
595. THE MANNER IN WHICH A SIDE OF BEEF is cut up in London, is shown in the engraving on this page. In the metropolis, on account of the large number of its population possessing the means to indulge in the "best of everything," the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great, the price, at the same time, being much higher for these than for the other parts. The consequence is, that in London the carcass is there divided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the most esteemed joints. In many places, however, where, from a greater equality in the social condition and habits of the inhabitants, the demand and prices for the different parts of the carcasses are more equalized, there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints so large.
595. The way a side of beef is cut up in London is shown in the engraving on this page. In the city, because many people can afford to enjoy the "best of everything," there is a high demand for the most tender cuts of meat, which also come at a much higher price than the other parts. As a result, in London, the carcass is divided to maximize the quantity of meat from the most sought-after cuts. However, in many places where social conditions and habits among residents are more equal, the demand and prices for different parts of the carcass are more balanced, so butchers don’t have the same incentive to cut the best joints so large.
596. THE MEAT ON THOSE PARTS OF THE ANIMAL in which the muscles are least called into action, is most tender and succulent; as, for instance, along the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the shoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder, and neck, are the toughest, driest, and least-esteemed.
596. THE MEAT ON THOSE PARTS OF THE ANIMAL where the muscles are used the least is the most tender and juicy; for example, along the back, from the hindquarters to the back of the shoulder; while the legs, shoulders, and neck are the toughest, driest, and least valued.
597. THE NAMES OF THE SEVERAL JOINTS in the hind and fore quarters of a side of beef, and the purposes for which they are used, are as follows:—
597. THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS in the hind and forequarters of a side of beef, along with their uses, are as follows:—
HIND QUARTER.
1. Sirloin.—The two sirloins, cut together in one joint, form a baron; this, when roasted, is the famous national dish of Englishmen, at entertainments, on occasion of rejoicing.
1. Sirloin.—The two sirloins, cut together in one piece, make a baron; this, when roasted, is the famous national dish of the English, served at celebrations and special occasions.
2. Rump,—the finest part for steaks.
2. Rump — the best cut for steaks.
3. Aitch-bone,—boiling piece.
3. Aitch-bone — boiling cut.
4. Buttock,—prime boiling piece.
4. Buttock—main cut for boiling.
5. Mouse-round,—boiling or stewing.
Mouse round, boiling or stewing.
6. Hock,—stewing.
6. Hock—cooking.
7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat,—primest boiling piece.
7. Thick flank, trimmed with the extra fat from the udder—a top-notch cut for boiling.
8. Thin flank,—boiling.
8. Thin flank - boiling.
FORE QUARTER.
9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib.—This is considered the primest roasting piece.
9. Five ribs, known as the fore-rib.—This is regarded as the best cut for roasting.
10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib,—greatly esteemed by housekeepers as the most economical joint for roasting.
10. Four ribs, known as the middle-rib, are highly valued by home cooks as the most cost-effective cut for roasting.
11. Two ribs, called the chuck-rib,—used for second quality of steaks.
11. Two ribs, known as the chuck rib, are used for the second quality of steaks.
12. Leg-of-mutton piece,—the muscles of the shoulder dissected from the breast.
12. Leg-of-mutton piece— the shoulder muscles separated from the breast.
13. Brisket, or breast,—used for boiling, after being salted.
13. Brisket, or breast, — used for boiling after being salted.
14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece,—used for soups, gravies, stocks, pies, and mincing for sausages.
14. Neck, clod, and sticking piece—used for soups, gravies, stocks, pies, and chopping for sausages.
15. Shin,—stewing.
15. Shin—simmering.
The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to the several joints of beef, when cut up in the London manner.
The following is a classification of the qualities of meat based on the different cuts of beef, prepared in the London style.
First class.—includes the sirloin, with the kidney suet (1), the rump-steak piece (2), the fore-rib (9).
First class.—includes the sirloin, with the kidney fat (1), the rump steak (2), the fore-rib (9).
Second class.—The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle-rib (10).
Second class.—The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle rib (10).
Third class.—The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank (8), the chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), the brisket (13).
Third class.—The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank (8), the chuck (11), the leg-of-mutton piece (12), the brisket (13).
Fourth class.—The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14).
Fourth class.—The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14).
Fifth class.—The hock (6), the shin (15).
Fifth class.—The hock (6), the shin (15).
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XIII.
BAKED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
BAKED BEEF (Cold Meat Cooking).
I.
598. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1 large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3 tablespoonfuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes.
598. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1 large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoons of gravy, 3 tablespoons of ale, crust or mashed potatoes.
Mode.—Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to each slice; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a portion of the onions, carrots, and turnips, which must be sliced; mince the herbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper and salt. Then put another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning; and proceed in this manner until all the ingredients are used. Pour in the gravy and ale (water may be substituted for the former, but it is not so nice), cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer.
Mode.—Slice the beef, leaving a little fat on each piece; place a layer of this at the bottom of a pie dish, along with some sliced onions, carrots, and turnips. Chop the herbs and sprinkle them over the meat, then season with pepper and salt. Add another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning, and continue doing this until all the ingredients are used up. Pour in the gravy and ale (you can use water instead of gravy, but it won't taste as good), cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for about 30 minutes, or a little longer.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—It is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding them to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they were boiled as a substitute for gravy; that is to say, when there is no gravy at hand. Be particular to cut the onions in very thin slices.
Note.—It's a good idea to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding them to the meat, and to use some of the liquid they were boiled in as a substitute for gravy; that is, when there's no gravy available. Be sure to cut the onions into very thin slices.
II.
599. INGREDIENTS.—Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6 tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes.
599. INGREDIENTS.—Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoon of minced savory herbs, 5 or 6 tablespoons of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes.
Mode.—Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoes over the bottom of it; on this place layers of beef in thin slices (this may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices), well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion end herbs, which should be previously fried of a nice brown; then put another layer of mashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before; pour in the gravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour. This may be served in the dish, or turned out.
Mode.—Butter the sides of a deep dish and spread mashed potatoes over the bottom. Layer thin slices of beef on top (you can use minced beef if you don't have enough to slice), well seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little bit of fried onion and herbs that are nicely browned; then add another layer of mashed potatoes, followed by beef and the other ingredients as before. Pour in the gravy or sauce, cover the entire dish with another layer of potatoes, and bake for 30 minutes. You can serve this in the dish or turn it out.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold beef, 6d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold beef, 6d.
Sufficient.—A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient.—A big pie dish filled for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
BEEF.—The quality of beef depends on various circumstances; such as the age, the sex, the breed of the animal, and also on the food upon which it has been raised. Bull beef is, in general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an agreeable flavour; whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly nourishing and digestible, but, if not too old, extremely agreeable. The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is not so agreeable as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is held in high estimation. The flesh of the smaller breeds is much sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal is about seven years old. That of the smaller breeds is best at about five years, and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too young.
BEEF.—The quality of beef depends on several factors, such as the age, sex, breed of the animal, and the kind of food it was raised on. Bull beef is generally dry and tough, with a flavor that’s not very appealing; on the other hand, ox meat is not only very nutritious and easy to digest but, if it's not too old, also quite pleasant. Cow meat is also nutritious, but it doesn’t taste as good as ox meat, although heifer meat is highly valued. The meat from smaller breeds is much sweeter than that from larger ones, which is best when the animal is around seven years old. Smaller breeds are best at about five years, and cow meat can hardly be eaten too young.
BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.
600. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk, salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb. of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt.
600. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, just under 1 pint of milk, salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb. of rump steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt.
Mode.—Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantity of fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces. Make a batter of flour, eggs, and milk in the above proportion; lay a little of it at the bottom of a pie-dish; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should be well seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder of the batter, and bake for 1-1/2 hour in a brisk but not fierce oven.
Mode.—Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, leaving a little fat, and chop the kidney into small pieces. Make a batter with flour, eggs, and milk in the proportions mentioned above; spread a bit of it at the bottom of a pie dish; then add the seasoned steaks and kidney, which should be well seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour the rest of the batter over them. Bake for 1-1/2 hours in a hot but not too fierce oven.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s.
Duration.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 2s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BEEF A LA MODE.
(Economical.)
(Budget-friendly.)
601. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz. of clarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berries of allspice, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt to taste.
601. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of beef chuck or brisket, 2 oz. of clarified fat, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 allspice berries, 2 bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon of whole black pepper, salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour; put the dripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced thin. Let it get quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them well about. When nicely browned all over, add by degrees boiling water in the above proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the whole well stirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover the stewpan closely, and set it by the side of the fire to stew very gently, till the meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3 hours, when it will be ready to serve. Remove the bay-leaves before it is sent to table.
Mode.—Cut the beef into small pieces and coat them in flour; place the fat in a saucepan with the thinly sliced onion. Heat it up until it's hot; then add the beef pieces and stir them well. Once they are browned all over, gradually add boiling water in the recommended amount, stirring the mixture as you go. Add the spices, bay leaves, and seasoning, cover the saucepan tightly, and let it simmer gently by the fire until the meat is tender, which should take about 3 hours, when it will be ready to serve. Remember to remove the bay leaves before serving.
Time.—3 hours.
Duration.—3 hours.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, £1.15.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Sufficient for 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BEEF A LA MODE.
602. INGREDIENTS.—6 or 7 lbs. of the thick flank of beef, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves well mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoonful; salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all finely minced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of celery, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 glass of port wine.
602. INGREDIENTS.—6 or 7 lbs. of the thick flank of beef, a few slices of fatty bacon, 1 cup of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves finely ground, totaling 1 heaped teaspoon; salt to taste, 1 bunch of savory herbs including parsley, all finely chopped and well combined; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of celery, 1.5 pints of water, 1 glass of port wine.
Mode.—Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown, and cut up the other vegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in the following manner:—Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into long slices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and then into a little of the above seasoning of spice, &c., mixed with the same quantity of minced herbs. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to let in the bacon; then rub the beef over with the remainder of the seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape. Have ready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than the piece of meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the vegetables, vinegar, and water. Let it simmer very gently for 5 hours, or rather longer, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn it once or twice. When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the tape, and put it on a hot dish. Skim off every particle of fat from the gravy, add the port wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and it is ready to serve. Great care must be taken that this does not boil fast, or the meat will be tough and tasteless; it should only just bubble. When convenient, all kinds of stews, &c., should be cooked on a hot-plate, as the process is so much more gradual than on an open fire.
Method.—Slice and fry the onions until they're a light brown, then chop the other vegetables into small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing like this:—Select a good cut of beef, slice the bacon into long pieces about an inch thick, dip them in vinegar, and then in a bit of the spice seasoning mixed with the same amount of minced herbs. Use a sharp knife to make holes deep enough to insert the bacon; then rub the beef with the remaining seasoning and herbs, and tie it up neatly with string. Have a well-tinned stewpan ready (it shouldn't be much larger than the piece of meat you're cooking), and place the beef in it along with the vegetables, vinegar, and water. Let it simmer very gently for 5 hours, or a bit longer if the meat isn't extremely tender, turning it once or twice. When you're ready to serve, remove the beef, take off the string, and place it on a hot dish. Skim off all excess fat from the gravy, add the port wine, bring it just to a boil, pour it over the beef, and it's ready to serve. Make sure it doesn’t boil rapidly, or the meat will turn tough and bland; it should only bubble gently. Whenever possible, all types of stews should be cooked on a hot plate, as it allows for a more gradual cooking process than an open flame.
Time.—5 hours, or rather more.
Time.—5 hours, or a bit more.
Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish.
Good to eat all year round, but better suited for a winter meal.
GOOD MEAT.—The lyer of meat when freshly killed, and the animal, when slaughtered, being in a state of perfect health, adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a deep-red colour; and when the animal has approached maturity, and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed. It is also full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine. The fat of the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour resembling that of the finest grass butter; bright in appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the last-mentioned properties.
GOOD MEAT.—Freshly killed meat, from an animal that was perfectly healthy at the time of slaughter, clings tightly to the bones. High-quality beef has a deep red color, and when the animal is nearing maturity and has been well-fed, the lean meat is interspersed with fat, creating the marbled effect that is highly valued. It is also juicy, with a color similar to claret wine. The fat of the best beef has a firm, waxy consistency and resembles the color of premium grass butter; it appears bright, is neither greasy nor crumbly to the touch, and has a pleasantly smooth quality that strikes a balance between these characteristics.
BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE.
603. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (see No. 492), 2 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt.
603. INGREDIENTS.—3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (see No. 492), 2 lbs. of rump steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt.
Mode.—Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that is ready, put it by the side of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling. Have the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape. In about 8 minutes they will be done, then put them on a very hot dish; smother with the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Serve quickly.
Mode.—Make the oyster sauce using recipe No. 492, and when it's ready, keep it warm by the fire without letting it boil. Cut the steaks to the same thickness, broil them over a strong heat, turning them frequently so the juices don't escape. In about 8 minutes, they should be done, then place them on a very hot plate; cover them with the oyster sauce, and send the rest to the table in a serving dish. Serve quickly.
Time.—About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the steak.
Time.—Approximately 8 to 10 minutes, depending on how thick the steak is.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
BEEF-STEAK PIE.
604. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg.
604. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of rump steak, seasoning to taste with salt, cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, and the yolk of an egg.
Mode.—Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days, that they may be tender, and be particular that every portion is perfectly sweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 wide, allowing a small piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange the meat in layers in a pie-dish. Between each layer sprinkle a seasoning of salt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne. Fill the dish sufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice raised appearance when baked, and not to look flat and hollow. Pour in sufficient water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (see Pastry); brush it over with a little water, and put on the cover; slightly press down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to the dish. Ornament the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape that fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg; make a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about 1-1/2 hour.
Mode.—Have the steaks cut from a rump that has rested for a few days, so they’ll be tender, and make sure that every piece is perfectly fresh. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide, allowing a small piece of fat for each piece of lean meat, and layer the meat in a pie dish. Between each layer, sprinkle some salt, pepper, and, if desired, a few pieces of cayenne. Fill the dish sufficiently with meat to support the crust, giving it a nice raised look when baked, rather than appearing flat and hollow. Pour in enough water to fill the dish halfway, and border it with paste (see Pastry); brush the top with a little water, and place on the cover; gently press the edges down with your thumb, and trim close to the dish. Decorate the pie with leaves or pieces of paste cut into any shapes you like, brush it with beaten egg yolk; make a small hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about 1-1/2 hours.
Time.—In a hot oven, 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—In a hot oven, 1.5 hours.
Average cost, for this size, 3s 6d.
Average cost, for this size, £0.17.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Enough for 6 or 8 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Trendy at any time.
Note.—Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oysters and their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suet may be used instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified beef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object. Pieces of underdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously; but always remove the bone from pie-meat, unless it be chicken or game. We have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually the case; for on trial we have found it much more tender, more easily helped, and with more gravy, than when put into the dish in one or two large steaks.
Note.—Beef steak pies can be flavored in various ways, including with oysters and their juice, mushrooms, minced onions, etc. For family pies, you can use suet instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified beef dripping works well if you're trying to save money. Pieces of slightly undercooked roast or boiled meat can be used very effectively in pies; just be sure to remove the bones from the pie meat, unless it's chicken or game. We recommend cutting the meat smaller than usual; we've found that it turns out much more tender, is easier to serve, and has more gravy than when it's left in one or two large pieces.
[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH.]
[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH.]
BEEF-STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.
605. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to taste of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each 1 lb. of flour.
605. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to taste of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each 1 lb. of flour.
Mode.—Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung a little time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and cut each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (of which we have given an engraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion, leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then cover the bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney; season with salt and pepper (some add a little flour to thicken the gravy, but it is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak, kidney, and seasoning. Proceed in this manner till the dish is full, when pour in sufficient water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin. Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding over, press the two crusts together, that the gravy may not escape, and turn up the overhanging paste. Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up the pudding; put it into boiling water, and let it boil for at least 4 hours. If the water diminishes, always replenish with some, hot in a jug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the time, and not allowed to stop boiling. When the cloth is removed, cut out a round piece in the top of the crust, to prevent the pudding bursting, and send it to table in the basin, either in an ornamental dish, or with a napkin pinned round it. Serve quickly.
Mode.—Get some tender rump steak (aged for a little while), and cut it into pieces about an inch square, and chop each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (which we’ve illustrated) with a crust made from suet and flour in the above proportions, leaving a small piece of crust to hang over the edge. Then cover the bottom with some of the steak and a few kidney pieces; season with salt and pepper (some people add a little flour to thicken the gravy, but it's not necessary), and add another layer of steak, kidney, and seasoning. Continue this process until the dish is full, then pour in enough water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin. Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding with the remaining crust, press the two crusts together so the gravy doesn’t escape, and fold over the excess paste. Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up the pudding; place it in boiling water and let it boil for at least 4 hours. If the water level goes down, always top it off with hot water from a jug, as the pudding should remain covered the entire time and shouldn't stop boiling. When you remove the cloth, cut out a round piece from the top of the crust to prevent the pudding from bursting, and serve it in the basin, either on a nice dish or with a napkin pinned around it. Serve quickly.
Time.—For a pudding with 2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 hours.
Time.—For a pudding with 2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys, allow 4 hours.
Average cost, 2s. 8d.
Average cost, £2.40.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.
Available all year round, but more suitable in winter.
Note.—Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few oysters or mushrooms. The above recipe was contributed to this work by a Sussex lady, in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savoury puddings. It differs from the general way of making them, as the meat is cut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped: on trial, this pudding will be found far nicer, and more full of gravy, than when laid in large pieces in the dish.
Note.—Beef-steak pudding can be greatly enhanced by adding a few oysters or mushrooms. This recipe was contributed to this work by a lady from Sussex, where the locals are known for their tasty puddings. It’s different from the usual method of making them, as the meat is cut into very small pieces and the basin has a unique shape. When tried, this pudding is found to be much tastier and more packed with gravy than when the meat is placed in large pieces in the dish.
BAD MEAT. In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering acute inflammation or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries, as they are called, which form the substance of the lyer, are filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which, from its impurity, gives the lyer a dark colour, and produces a tendency to rapid putrefaction. In a more advanced stage of such disease, serous, and sometimes purulent matter, is formed in the cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh; and when such is the case, nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable carrion. In the flesh of animals killed whilst under the influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the lyer adheres but slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted and dry; and the little fat that there may be is friable, and shrunk within its integuments. The flesh of animals slaughtered whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from previous bleeding) has a diminished tendency to stiffen after death, the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to the degree of depression. It presents, also, an unnatural blue or pallid appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and soon becomes putrid. When an animal has died otherwise than by slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a peculiar faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added, spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly.
BAD MEAT. The flesh of animals that were slaughtered while suffering from severe inflammation or fever has capillaries—also known as hollow fibers—that are filled with congested and unprocessed animal fluid. This impurity darkens the flesh and makes it prone to quickly spoil. In more advanced stages of such illness, serous and sometimes pus-like matter forms in the cellular tissues between the muscle fibers, and when that happens, nothing is more toxic than such disgusting carrion. The flesh of animals killed while experiencing any disease that causes severe weight loss shows the fiber layer barely clinging to the bones, with its fibers tight and dry. Any fat present tends to be crumbly and shriveled inside its covering. The flesh of animals killed after significant loss of vitality (like after severe bleeding) is less likely to stiffen after death, with the likelihood of that stiffness diminishing according to how much vitality was lost. It also has an unnatural bluish or pale appearance, gives off a faint, slightly sour odor, and quickly becomes foul. When an animal dies from reasons other than slaughter, its flesh becomes limp and slimy, produces a distinct faint and unpleasant smell, and, as one might expect, decomposes rapidly on its own.
BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX POMMES-DE-TERRE (a la mode Francaise).
BEEF STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BEEFSTEAK WITH POTATOES (in the French style).
606. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs.
606. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of minced herbs.
Mode.—Put the butter into a frying or sauté pan, set it over the fire, and let it get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thin slices; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice brown colour. Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning them frequently, that every part may be equally done: as they should not be thick, 5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs and seasoning in the butter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and place the fried potatoes round, as a garnish. To have this dish in perfection, a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the meat is generally so much more tender than that of the rump, and the steaks should be cut about 1/3 of an inch in thickness.
Method.—Put the butter in a frying or sauté pan, place it over the heat until it's very hot. Peel and slice the potatoes into long, thin pieces. Add them to the hot butter and fry until they turn a nice golden brown. Next, grill the steaks over a bright, clear fire, turning them often to ensure they cook evenly: if they’re not thick, 5 minutes will do the job. Mix the herbs and seasoning in the butter from frying the potatoes, pour that under the steak, and arrange the fried potatoes around as a garnish. For the best results, use a piece of the sirloin fillet, as it’s usually much more tender than the rump, and cut the steaks about 1/3 inch thick.
Time.—5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to fry the potatoes. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Time.—5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to fry the potatoes. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable all the year; but not so good in warm weather, as the meat cannot hang to get tender.
Good all year round, but not as great in warm weather, since the meat can't hang to become tender.
[Illustration: AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.]
[Illustration: BEEF AITCH BONE.]
BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.
607. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, water.
607. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, water.
Mode.—After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be ready for use, and will not take so long boiling: as a round, for it is not so solid. Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few hours, changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness is obtained. Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water to cover the meat; set it over the fire, and when it boils, plunge in the joint (see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly. Now draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let the process be very gradual, as the water must only simmer, or the meat will be hard and tough. Carefully remove the scum from the surface of the water, and continue doing this for a few minutes after it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, and sometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled with the beef. Garnish with a few of the carrots and turnips, and serve the remainder in a vegetable-dish.
Mode.—After this joint has been in salt for 5 or 6 days, it will be ready to use and won’t take as long to boil: unlike a round, it’s not as solid. Rinse the meat, and if it’s too salty, soak it for a few hours, changing the water once or twice, until the desired freshness is reached. Put enough water in a saucepan or pot to cover the meat; place it over the heat, and when it boils, add the joint (see No. 557) and let it boil for a short time. Then move the pot to the side of the heat and let it simmer gently, as rapid boiling will make the meat tough. Carefully skim off the scum from the surface of the water and keep doing this for a few minutes after it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, and sometimes suet dumplings can be boiled with the beef. Garnish with some of the carrots and turnips, and serve the rest in a separate vegetable dish.
Time.—An aitch-bone of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours after the water boils; one of 20 lbs., 4 hours. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—A 10 lb. brisket takes 2.5 hours after the water boils; a 20 lb. brisket takes 4 hours. Average cost, 6p. per lb.
Sufficient.—10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.
Sufficient.—10 lbs. for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable all the year, but best from September to March.
Available year-round, but best from September to March.
Note.—The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily converted into a very excellent pea-soup. It will require very few vegetables, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled with the meat.
Note.—The broth from boiling the meat can easily be turned into a delicious pea soup. It will need very few vegetables since it will be infused with the flavors of the ones boiled with the meat.
THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT.—The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to understand. By its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted by the salt. In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction takes the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable. Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of preserving meat; it acts also by its astringency in contracting the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the substance of the meat. The last-mentioned operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent action of saltpetre on meat is much greater than that of salt, and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard; but, in small quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid colour of meat, which is caused by the application of salt. Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a considerable degree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat.
THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT.—The way salt preserves meat is pretty straightforward. First, it draws out the juices from the meat, enough to create a saturated solution with the water from those juices, and the meat then takes in the saturated brine instead of the juices taken out by the salt. This process replaces the parts of the meat that are most prone to spoilage with material that won’t rot. But salt does more than just this; it also tightens the muscle fibers due to its astringency, which helps block air from getting to the inside of the meat. This antiseptic effect of salt is shown by the reduction in the size of the meat when salt is added. The astringent effect of saltpetre on meat is much stronger than that of salt, making the meat very tough; however, in small amounts, it significantly boosts the antiseptic properties of salt and helps maintain the bright color of the meat, which can be dulled by salt. So, from this discussion, it's clear that using salt and saltpetre reduces both the nutritional value and, to some extent, the health benefits of meat. Therefore, when using them, the amount should be kept as low as possible while still ensuring the meat is well preserved.
BOILED ROUND OF BEEF.
608. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, water.
608. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, water.
Mode.—As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large for small families, and very seldom required, we here give the recipe for dressing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take from 12 to 16 lbs., after it has been in salt about 10 days; just wash off the salt, skewer it up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keep the skewers in their places. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, as in the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins to boil, carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is not attended to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table, presents a very unsightly appearance. When it is well skimmed, draw the pot to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done. Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver one; pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots. (See coloured plate 2.) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet dumplings, accompany this dish; and these may all be boiled with the beef. The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-soup; and the outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an uninviting appearance, may be out off before being sent to table, and potted. These make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table.
Mode.—Since a whole round of beef is usually too much for small families and not often needed, we provide a recipe for preparing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take 12 to 16 lbs. after it has been salted for about 10 days; just wash off the salt, shape it into a nice round form using skewers, and bind it with tape to hold the skewers in place. Place it in a saucepan of boiling water like in the previous recipe, set it on a good heat, and once it starts to boil, carefully skim off any foam on the surface. If you don't do this, it settles on the meat and looks very unpleasant when served. After it's well skimmed, move the pot to the edge of the heat and let it simmer gently until cooked. Remove the tape and skewers, replacing them with a silver one; pour a little of the cooking liquid over it, and garnish with carrots. (See coloured plate 2.) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet dumplings can accompany this dish and can be boiled with the beef. Save the cooking liquid to turn into pea soup, and the outer slices, which tend to be tough and unappealing, can be cut off before serving and potted. These make a great addition to the breakfast or lunch table.
Time.—Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs., about 3 hours after the water boils. Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Time.—A piece of beef weighing 12 lbs., cooked for about 3 hours after the water starts boiling. Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Sufficient for 10 persons.
Enough for 10 people.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable for winter.
Good to use all year round, but best for winter.
609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TO BE SERVED COLD.—Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of rough ice; and when the meat is done, put it into one of the tubs of ice-water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put it into the other tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continue this process for about 20 minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let it remain until quite cold. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the whole, of the gravy. If there is no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed.
609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TO BE SERVED COLD.—Fill two tubs with cold water and add a few pounds of rough ice. Once the meat is cooked, place it in one of the ice-water tubs; let it sit for 1 minute, then take it out and put it in the other tub. Refill the first tub with water and repeat this process for about 20 minutes. Afterward, set the meat on a dish and let it cool completely. When sliced, the fat will be as white as possible, and you'll have preserved all the gravy. If ice isn’t available, spring water will work just as well, but you'll need to change it more often.
Note.—The BRISKET and RUMP may be boiled by the above recipe; of course allowing more or less time, according to the size of the joint.
Note.—You can boil the BRISKET and RUMP using the recipe above; just adjust the cooking time based on the size of the cut.
BEEF CAKE.
610. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of cold meat allow 1/4 lb. of bacon or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.
610. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast beef; for every pound of cold meat, use 1/4 lb. of bacon or ham; season with salt and pepper to taste, add 1 small bunch of minced savory herbs, and 1 or 2 eggs.
Mode.—Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better), add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix well together. Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2 should 1 not be sufficient. Make it into small square cakes, about 1/2 inch thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good gravy poured round them.
Mode.—Finely mince the beef (it’s better if it’s slightly undercooked), add the bacon, which should also be chopped very small, and mix everything together well. Season it, then stir in the herbs and bind it with one or two eggs if one isn't enough. Shape the mixture into small square patties about 1/2 inch thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve on a plate with good gravy poured around them.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
BROILED BEEF-STEAKS or RUMP-STEAKS.
Grilled beef steaks or rump steaks.
611. INGREDIENTS.—Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
611. INGREDIENTS.—Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
Mode.—As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for a few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece of fresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks, which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, or rather thinner, and level them by beating them as little as possible with a rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are not at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready a very hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little minced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and season with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must be determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; more than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think, would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expedition is necessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them in perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on their being served very hot. Garnish with scraped horseradish, or slices of cucumber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequent accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dish generally reject all additions but pepper and salt.
Mode.—The success of a good broil depends a lot on the fire's condition, so make sure it’s bright, clear, and completely smoke-free. Don’t add new fuel right before you need to use the grill. Sprinkle a little salt on the fire and place the grill on it for a few minutes to get it really hot. Rub it with a piece of fresh suet to stop the meat from sticking, then lay down the steaks, which should be cut to an even thickness of about 3/4 inch or slightly thinner. Flatten them by gently beating with a rolling pin as little as possible. Turn them often with steak tongs; if you don’t have those, use a fork in the edge of the fat to keep the juices in. In about 8 to 10 minutes, they'll be done. Have a very hot dish ready, add the ketchup, and, if you like, a bit of minced shallot. Plate the steaks, rub them with butter, and season with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks depends on your preference for doneness; we believe more than 8 to 10 minutes for a 3/4 inch thick steak would dry it out. It’s important to serve broiled steaks quickly; they should only be cooked when everything else for dinner is ready, as their quality relies on being served very hot. Garnish with grated horseradish or cucumber slices. Oyster, tomato, onion, and other sauces are commonly served with rump steak, but true fans of this English dish usually stick with just pepper and salt.
Time.—8 to 10 minutes.
Time.—8 to 10 mins.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Average cost, 1 shilling per lb.
Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 lb. to each person; if the party consist entirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb. will not be too much.
Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 lb. for each person; if the group is made up entirely of men, 3/4 lb. will be just right.
Seasonable all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as the meat cannot hang long enough to be tender.
Good year-round, but not great in the peak of summer, since the meat can't hang long enough to become tender.
DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.—We have already stated (see No. 593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in mutton, stands first in excellence. It should be borne in mind, however, that each county has its particular season, and that the London and other large markets are always supplied by those counties whose meat, from local circumstances, is in the best condition at the time. Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their place being taken by grass-fed oxen. A large quantity of most excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source.
DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.—We’ve already mentioned (see No. 593) that the Scottish breed of cattle is the best, similar to how South-downs rank for sheep. However, it’s important to remember that each county has its specific season, and the London and other major markets are consistently stocked by those counties whose meat is in the best condition at that time. For example, the season in Norfolk, where the Scots come from (which is the main type of cattle raised by Norfolk and Suffolk farmers), starts around Christmas and ends around June, when the Scots breed starts to decline in quality, making way for grass-fed cattle. A significant amount of high-quality meat is sent to the “dead markets” from Scotland, and some of the best butchers in London get their supplies from this region.
BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.
(Cold Meat Cookery).
(Cold Meat Recipes).
612. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashed potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.
612. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, mashed potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.
Mode.—Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup; stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it in the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire. In making the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there is sufficient gravy.
Method.—Wipe the mushrooms clean with a piece of cloth and salt; place them in a saucepan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup; stir over the heat until the mushrooms are fully cooked, then pour this mixture into the center of browned mashed potatoes. Next, arrange slices of cold roast beef, nicely grilled over an open flame, around the potatoes. When making the mushroom sauce, you can skip the ketchup if there is enough gravy.
Time.—1/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 8d.
Time.—15 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 8d.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).
BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).
613. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef.
613. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 small piece of mace, 2 oz. of butter, 1/2 teaspoon of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed potatoes, and a few slices of cold roast beef.
Mode.—Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; add the cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of mashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, which should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire.
Method.—Place the oysters in a saucepan, with their strained liquid; add the cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 5 minutes. Prepare a dish with walls made of browned mashed potatoes in the center; pour the hot oyster sauce into the middle and arrange layers of slices of beef, which should be previously grilled over a nice clear flame, around the potatoes.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, 1s, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat.
Time—5 minutes. Average cost, 1s, 6d., not including the cold meat.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
BROILED BEEF-BONES.
614. INGREDIENTS.—The bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper, and cayenne.
614. INGREDIENTS.—Ribs or sirloin bones; salt, pepper, and cayenne.
Mode.—Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is not too thick in any part; sprinkle them well with the above seasoning, and broil over a very clear fire. When nicely browned they are done; but do not allow them to blacken.
Method.—Remove the bones, making sure the meat isn’t too thick anywhere; season them well with the seasoning mentioned above, and grill over a clear fire. When they’re nicely browned, they’re ready, but don’t let them burn.
TO DRESS A BULLOCK'S HEART.
615. INGREDIENTS.—1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417.
615. INGREDIENTS.—1 heart, stuffing made from veal forcemeat, No. 417.
Mode.—Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then wipe it well with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside with a highly-seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by means of a needle and coarse thread; tie the heart up in paper, and set it before a good fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it will eat dry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three minutes before serving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy and red-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is very large, it will require 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be baked as well as roasted.
Mode.—Soak the heart in warm water for 2 hours, then wipe it clean with a cloth. After cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside with a well-seasoned filling (No. 417). Secure it with a needle and thick thread; wrap the heart in paper and place it in front of a good fire, making sure to baste it regularly, or it will be dry since it has very little fat. Two or three minutes before serving, take off the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy and red-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is very large, it will need 2 hours, and if covered with a caul, it can be baked as well as roasted.
Time.—Large heart, 2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—Big heart, 2 hours. Average cost, £2.50.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Enough for 6 or 8 people.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
Note.—This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, though not seen at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness and economy.
Note.—This is a great family dish, very tasty, and although it's not commonly found at many nice dinners, it is recommended for its affordability and economy.
BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery).
Bubble and Squeak (Cold Meat Recipe).
616. INGREDIENTS.—A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter, cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste.
616. INGREDIENTS.—A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter, cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper, and salt to taste.
Mode.—Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking care not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with fried greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys. They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and placed, till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with butter, a sliced onion, and seasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done, it is ready to serve.
Method.—Gently fry the beef slices in a little butter, being careful not to overcook them. Place them on a flat dish and top with sautéed greens. You can use cabbage sprouts or green savoys for the greens. Boil them until tender, drain well, chop them up, and then heat them in a frying pan with butter, a sliced onion, and season with pepper and salt. When the onion is cooked, it's ready to serve.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total: 30 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d.
Average cost, not including the cold beef, 3d.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
[Illustration: COLLARED BEEF.]
[Illustration: COLLARED BEEF.]
COLLARED BEEF.
617. INGREDIENTS.—7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of coarse sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz, of saltpetre, 1 large handful of parsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice; salt and pepper to taste.
617. INGREDIENTS.—7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of coarse sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpeter, 1 large handful of minced parsley, 1 dessert spoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savory herbs, 1/2 teaspoon of ground allspice; salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat; lay it in a dish; rub in the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, remove all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle it thickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the above proportion, taking care that the former are finely minced, and the latter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible, in the same shape as shown in the engraving; bind it firmly with broad tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of the pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it remain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to the breakfast-table.
Mode.—Choose good quality tender beef, but not too fatty; place it in a dish; rub in the sugar, salt, and saltpeter, and let it sit in the brine for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then, debone it, remove all the gristle and coarse skin from the inside, and sprinkle it generously with parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning in the amounts mentioned above, making sure the former are finely minced and the latter well ground. Roll the meat tightly in a cloth, shaping it as shown in the illustration; bind it securely with broad tape, and gently boil it for 6 hours. As soon as you take it out of the pot, place it under a heavy weight without unwrapping it, and let it cool completely. This dish is a great addition to the breakfast table.
Time.—6 hours. Average cost, for this quantity, 4s.
Time: 6 hours. Average cost for this amount: 4s.
Seasonable at any time.
"Suitable for any season."
Note.—During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, and regularly rubbed and turned every day.
Note.—While the beef is in brine, it should be kept cool and turned and rubbed daily.
BEEF-COLLOPS.
618. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of gravy (water may be substituted for this), salt and pepper to taste, 1 shalot finely minced, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers.
618. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump steak, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 pint of gravy (you can use water instead), salt and pepper to taste, 1 finely minced shallot, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoon of capers.
Mode.—Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3 inches long; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with flour. Put them in a frying-pan with the butter, and let them fry for about 3 minutes; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over them the gravy. Add a piece of butter, kneaded with a little flour, put in the seasoning and all the other ingredients, and let the whole simmer, but not boil, for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish.
Mode.—Cut the steak into thin slices, each about 3 inches long; pound them lightly with the flat side of a knife and coat them in flour. Place them in a frying pan with butter and cook for about 3 minutes; then transfer them to a small saucepan and pour the gravy over them. Add a bit of butter mixed with a little flour, season, and include all the other ingredients, allowing everything to simmer, but not boil, for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot, covered dish.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, $0.01 per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
MINCED COLLOPS (an Entree).
MINCED COLLOPS (an Entrée).
619. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of rump-steak, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 1 onion minced, 1/4 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, or lemon-juice, or mushroom ketchup; 1 small bunch of savoury herbs.
619. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of rump steak, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 1 minced onion, 1/4 pint of water, 1 tablespoon of Harvey's sauce, lemon juice, or mushroom ketchup; 1 small bunch of savory herbs.
Mode.—Mince the beef and onion very small, and fry the latter in butter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in a stewpan, and boil gently for about 10 minutes; garnish with sippets of toasted bread, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Chop the beef and onion finely, and sauté the onion in butter until it turns a light brown. Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan, and simmer gently for about 10 minutes; top with pieces of toasted bread, and serve hot.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, $0.01 per lb.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Enough for 2 or 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cooking).
620. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglassful of beer, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder.
620. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of reasonably lean cold roast or boiled beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglass of beer, 1 dessert spoon of curry powder.
Mode.—Cut up the beef into pieces about 1 inch square, put the butter into a stewpan with the onions sliced, and fry them of a lightly-brown colour. Add all the other ingredients, and stir gently over a brisk fire for about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more beer, or a spoonful or two of gravy or water, may be added; but a good curry should not be very thin. Place it in a deep dish, with an edging of dry boiled rice, in the same manner as for other curries.
Mode.—Cut the beef into 1-inch square pieces, put the butter in a saucepan with the sliced onions, and fry them until they’re lightly browned. Add all the other ingredients and stir gently over a high heat for about 10 minutes. If it seems too dry, you can add more beer or a spoonful or two of gravy or water, but a good curry shouldn’t be too thin. Serve it in a deep dish with a border of dry boiled rice, just like other curries.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING.
I.
621. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting everything except game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for frying nearly as well as lard; it should be kept in a cool place, and will remain good some time. To clarify it, put the dripping into a basin, pour over it boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash away the impurities. Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty sediment will settle at the bottom of the basin. Remove the dripping, and put it away in jars or basins for use.
621. Good, fresh dripping works great for basting everything except game and poultry, and when properly clarified, it can be used for frying almost as well as lard; it should be stored in a cool place and will stay good for a while. To clarify it, put the dripping in a bowl, pour boiling water over it, and keep stirring to wash away the impurities. Let it cool, and the water and dirty sediment will settle at the bottom of the bowl. Remove the dripping and store it in jars or bowls for later use.
ANOTHER WAY.
622. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for a few minutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well. Let it stand to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes, as, with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell.
622. Pour the dripping into a clean saucepan and let it simmer for a few minutes over low heat, making sure to skim off any foam. Allow it to cool slightly, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for later use. Beef dripping is better than any other for cooking because, unlike mutton dripping, it doesn’t have a greasy taste and smell.
ROAST FILLET OF BEEF (Larded).
Larded roast beef fillet.
623. INGREDIENTS.—About 4 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin, 1 onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, sufficient vinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411.
623. INGREDIENTS.—About 4 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin, 1 onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, enough vinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411.
Mode.—Lard the beef with bacon, and put it into a pan with sufficient vinegar to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, and seasoning, and let it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice clear fire for about 1-1/4 hour, and, when done, glaze it. Pour some Spanish sauce round the beef, and the remainder serve in a tureen. It may be garnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed.
Mode.—Spread lard over the beef and place it in a pan with enough vinegar to cover it, along with a sliced onion, parsley, and seasoning. Let it marinate in this mixture for 12 hours. Roast it in front of a nice clear fire for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, and once it's done, glaze it. Pour some Spanish sauce around the beef, and serve the rest in a serving dish. You can garnish it with boiled and glazed Spanish onions.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the sauce, 4s.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, without the sauce, £4.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Enough for 6 or 8 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
FRICANDEAU OF BEEF.
624. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin (a piece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper and salt to taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 shalots, bacon.
624. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the inner sirloin fillet (a piece of the rump can be used instead), pepper and salt to taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 2 shallots, bacon.
Mode.—Cut some bacon into thin strips, and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and allspice, well pounded. Lard the beef with these, put it into a stewpan with the stock or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, and more pepper and salt. Stew the meat gently until tender, when take it out, cover it closely, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Set it on the fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side of the beef with this, and serve on sorrel sauce, which is made as follows:—Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with only the water that hangs about it. Keep stirring, to prevent its burning, and when done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, and stew it with a small piece of butter and 4 or 6 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, for an hour, and rub it through a tammy. If too acid, add a little sugar; and a little cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will be found an improvement.
Mode.—Slice some bacon into thin strips and sprinkle them with a mix of pepper, salt, crushed cloves, mace, and allspice. Lard the beef with these strips, place it in a saucepan with stock or water, sherry, herbs, shallots, 2 cloves, and additional pepper and salt. Simmer the meat gently until it's tender, then remove it, cover it tightly, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Heat the strained gravy until it boils down to a glaze. Brush the larded side of the beef with this glaze and serve it with sorrel sauce, made as follows:—Wash and pick some sorrel and put it in a saucepan with just the water that clings to it. Keep stirring to prevent it from burning, and once done, place it in a sieve to drain. Chop it and simmer it with a small piece of butter and 4 to 6 tablespoons of good gravy for an hour, then push it through a fine sieve. If it’s too tart, add a bit of sugar; adding a little boiled cabbage lettuce to the sorrel will enhance the flavor.
Time.—2 hours to gently stew the meat.
Time.—2 hours to slowly cook the meat.
Average cost, for this quantity, 4s.
Average cost, for this quantity, £0.20.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cooking).
625. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of butter, mashed potatoes.
625. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold corned beef, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of butter, mashed potatoes.
Mode.—Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry them gently in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some very hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish with 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little liquor from mixed pickle, drained, and served as above, will be found good.
Mode.—Slice any part of cold salt beef into thin pieces, gently fry them in butter, and season with a bit of pepper. Prepare some very hot mashed potatoes, place the slices of beef on top, and garnish with 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little liquid from mixed pickles, drained, and served as described above, will taste good.
Time.—About 5 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—About 5 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
FRIED RUMP-STEAK.
626. INGREDIENTS.—Steaks, butter or clarified dripping.
626. INGREDIENTS.—Steaks, butter, or clarified fat.
Mode. Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks to frying them, yet, when the cook is not very expert, the latter mode may be adopted; and, when properly done, the dish may really look very inviting, and the flavour be good. The steaks should be cut rather thinner than for broiling, and with a small quantity of fat to each. Put some butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan; let it get quite hot, then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until done, which will be in about 8 minutes, or rather more, should the steaks be very thick. Serve on a very hot dish, in which put a small piece of butter and a tablespoonful of ketchup, and season with pepper and salt. They should be sent to table quickly, as, when cold, the steaks are entirely spoiled.
Mode. While broiling is a much better way to cook steaks than frying, if the cook isn't very skilled, frying can be used. When done right, the dish can look quite appealing and taste good. The steaks should be cut a bit thinner than for broiling and have a small amount of fat with each. Heat some butter or clarified fat in a frying pan until it's very hot, then add the steaks. Turn them often until they're done, which should take about 8 minutes, or a bit longer if the steaks are very thick. Serve on a very hot plate, adding a small piece of butter and a tablespoon of ketchup, and season with pepper and salt. They should be served quickly because if they get cold, the steaks are completely ruined.
Time.—8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, rather longer for a very thick one.
Time.—8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, and a bit longer for a very thick one.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Average cost, 1 shilling per lb.
Seasonable all the year, but not good in summer, as the meat cannot hang to get tender.
Good all year round, but not great in summer since the meat can't hang to get tender.
Note.—Where much gravy is liked, make it in the following manner:—As soon as the steaks are done, dish them, pour a little boiling water into the frying-pan, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small piece of butter, and a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. Hold the pan over the fire for a minute or two, just let the gravy simmer, then pour on the steak, and serve.
Note: If you like a lot of gravy, prepare it like this: Once the steaks are cooked, plate them, pour a little boiling water into the frying pan, add some salt and pepper, a small piece of butter, and a tablespoon of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup. Keep the pan over the heat for a minute or two to let the gravy simmer, then pour it over the steak and serve.
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF BEEF. The following is translated from a celebrated modern French work, the production of one who in Paris enjoys a great reputation as cook and chemist:—The flesh of the ox, to be in the best condition, should be taken from an animal of from four to six years old, and neither too fat nor too lean. This meat, which possesses in the highest degree the most nutritive qualities, is generally easily digested; stock is made from it, and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed, braised, and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the foundation of stock, gravies, braises, &c.; its nutritious and succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless ragoûts. It is an exhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist, and is truly the king of the kitchen. Without it, no soup, no gravy; and its absence would produce almost a famine in the civilized world!
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF BEEF. The following is translated from a well-known modern French work by a highly regarded cook and chemist in Paris:—The best quality beef should come from an animal that is four to six years old, and it shouldn't be too fatty or too lean. This meat, which has the highest nutritional value, is generally easy to digest; it is used to make stock and can be eaten in many ways: boiled, grilled, roasted, stewed, braised, and countless other preparations. Beef is essential for stock, gravies, braises, etc.; its rich and tasty gravy adds depth and flavor to many dishes. It is an endless resource in the hands of a skilled chef and truly reigns supreme in the kitchen. Without it, there would be no soup, no gravy; its absence would lead to a near famine in the civilized world!
BEEF FRITTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).
BEEF FRITTERS (Chilled Meat Cooking).
627. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast beef, pepper and salt to taste, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs.
627. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, and the whites of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Mix very smoothly, and by degrees, the flour with the above proportion of water; stir in 2 oz. of butter, which must be melted, but not oiled, and, just before it is to be used, add the whites of two well-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick, more water must be added. Pare down the cold beef into thin shreds, season with pepper and salt, and mix it with the batter. Drop a small quantity at a time into a pan of boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10 minutes, according to the size. When done on one side, turn and brown them on the other. Let them dry for a minute or two before the fire, and serve on a folded napkin. A small quantity of finely-minced onions, mixed with the batter, is an improvement.
Method.—Gradually mix the flour with the specified amount of water until smooth; stir in 2 oz. of melted butter, ensuring it’s not greasy, and just before using, fold in the whites of two well-beaten eggs. If the batter is too thick, add more water. Cut the cold beef into thin strips, season with pepper and salt, and combine it with the batter. Drop small amounts into a pan of hot lard and fry for 7 to 10 minutes, depending on their size. Once one side is cooked, flip them to brown the other side. Let them dry for a minute or two in front of the fire, then serve on a folded napkin. Adding a small amount of finely chopped onions to the batter enhances the dish.
Time.—From 7 to 10 minutes.
Duration.—7 to 10 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d. Seasonable at any time.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d. Available at any time.
HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Recipe).
I.
628. INGREDIENTS.—Gravy saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful of tomato sauce, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of good mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour to thicken, 1 onion finely minced, a few slices of cold roast beef.
628. INGREDIENTS.—Gravy leftover from the meat, 1 teaspoon of tomato sauce, 1 teaspoon of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoon of quality mushroom ketchup, 1/2 cup of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour to thicken, 1 finely chopped onion, and a few slices of cold roast beef.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan with whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was roasted; let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take the stewpan off the fire; let the gravy cool, and skim off the fat. Cut the beef into thin slices, dredge them with flour, and lay them in the gravy; let the whole simmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, or the meat will be tough and hard. Serve very hot, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients except the beef into a stewpan along with any gravy saved from the meat when it was roasted. Let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then remove the stewpan from the heat; allow the gravy to cool and skim off the fat. Slice the beef thinly, coat it with flour, and place it in the gravy; let everything simmer gently for 5 minutes, but avoid boiling, as that will make the meat tough and chewy. Serve very hot, and garnish with toasted bread cubes.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold meat, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
II.
629. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 blade of pounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than 1 pint of water.
629. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 blade of ground mace, thickening agent of flour, a bit more than 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of beef; remove the outside brown and gristle; place the meat on one side, and well stew the bones and pieces, with the above ingredients, for about 2 hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to rather more than 1/2 pint; strain this, thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, and let the gravy cool; skim off all the fat; lay in the meat, let it get hot through, but do not allow it to boil, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread. The gravy may be flavoured as in the preceding recipe.
Mode.—Remove all the meat from the bones of the ribs or sirloin of beef; get rid of any brown bits and gristle on the outside. Set the meat aside and simmer the bones and scraps with the ingredients listed above for about 2 hours until it turns into a rich gravy and reduces to just over 1/2 pint. Strain this mixture, thicken it with a teaspoon of flour, and let the gravy cool. Skim off all the fat, add the meat, and heat it through, but do not let it boil. Garnish with toasted bread pieces. You can flavor the gravy as mentioned in the previous recipe.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours.
Time.—Over 2 hours.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 2d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 2p.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—Either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed potatoes browned; in which case the sippets should be omitted. Be careful that hashed meat does not boil, or it will become tough.
Note.—Any of the above recipes can be served in browned mashed potato walls; in that case, the sippets should be left out. Make sure that the hashed meat doesn’t boil, or it will get tough.
TO PREPARE HUNG BEEF.
630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or without smoke. Hang up the beef 3 or 4 days, till it becomes tender, but take care it does not begin to spoil; then salt it in the usual way, either by dry-salting or by brine, with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre, and a little pepper and allspice; afterwards roll it tight in a cloth, and hang it up in a warm, but not hot place, for a fortnight or more, till it is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smoky flavour, it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner, or smoked in any other way: it will keep a long time.
630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or without smoke. Hang the beef for 3 or 4 days until it becomes tender, but make sure it doesn't start to spoil; then salt it in the usual way, either by dry-salting or using brine, with bay salt, brown sugar, saltpeter, and a bit of pepper and allspice. After that, roll it tightly in a cloth and hang it in a warm, but not hot place, for two weeks or more until it’s hard enough. If you want a bit of a smoky flavor, you can hang it for a while in a chimney corner or smoke it using any other method: it will last a long time.
HUNTER'S BEEF.
631. INGREDIENTS.—For a round of beef weighing 25 lbs. allow 3 oz. of saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. bay-salt.
631. INGREDIENTS.—For a 25 lb. round of beef, use 3 oz. of saltpeter, 3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, and 1/2 lb. of bay salt.
Mode.—Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone. Pound spices, salt, &c. in the above proportion, and let them be reduced to the finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingredients well into it, and turn and rub it every day for rather more than a fortnight. When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it up securely with tape, and put it into a pan with 1/2 pint of water at the bottom; mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it, and over the pan put a common crust of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and, when cold, remove the paste. Save the gravy that flows from it, as it adds greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, &c. The beef may be glazed and garnished with meat jelly.
Method.—Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, then remove the bone. Grind the spices, salt, etc., to a fine powder in the proportions mentioned above. Place the beef in a pan, thoroughly rub all the ingredients into it, and turn and rub it every day for a little over two weeks. Once it has been in the brine long enough, wash the meat, wrap it securely with tape, and put it into a pan with 1/2 pint of water at the bottom; chop some suet and cover the top of the meat with it, then cover the pan with a simple crust made from flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and once cool, remove the crust. Save the gravy that flows from it, as it greatly enhances the flavor of hashes, stews, etc. The beef can be glazed and garnished with meat jelly.
Time.—6 hours.
Duration.—6 hours.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonal all year round.
Note.—In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time, a less quantity of salt and a larger quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed, which could not be adopted by the curer of the immense quantities of meat required to be preserved for victualling the shipping of this maritime country. Sugar, which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat, as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative effect, without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a flavour not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the mixture; and, perhaps, now that sugar is so much lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is removed.
Note.—When salting or pickling beef or pork for home use, since it's not usually necessary to keep it for a long time, you can use less salt and more ingredients that help keep the meat tender. This is different from what is used by those who need to preserve large amounts of meat for shipping in this maritime country. Sugar, which is known to have strong preserving qualities without the sharpness and dryness of salt, is often used in home meat preservation. While it doesn’t tighten or toughen the meat fibers like salt does, which helps keep it tender, using enough sugar for preservation, without other preservatives, can create a taste that some people might not enjoy. However, when used alongside salt, it can effectively add mildness and tenderness to cured meat, in a ratio of about one part sugar to four parts of the mixture. And since sugar is now much cheaper than it used to be, one barrier to its more frequent use has been removed.
TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.
I.
632. INGREDIENTS.—1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/4 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
632. INGREDIENTS.—1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to taste, a small amount of well-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours, and change the water 2 or 3 times; then put them on a clean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a frying-pan with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown; season each side with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and the gravy in the middle. Before pouring the gravy in the dish, add the lemon-juice and sugar.
Mode.—Slice the kidneys neatly and soak them in warm water for 2 hours, changing the water 2 or 3 times. Then place them on a clean cloth to dry off the water. Arrange them in a frying pan with some clarified butter and fry them until they are a nice brown. Season each side with pepper and salt, place them around the dish, and pour the gravy in the middle. Before adding the gravy to the dish, mix in the lemon juice and sugar.
Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes. Average cost, 9d. each.
Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes. Average cost, 9d. each.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
II.
633. INGREDIENTS.—1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
633. INGREDIENTS.—1 kidney, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon of chopped shallot, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoons of sherry.
Mode.—Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, and put it in a frying-pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley and shalots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and fry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a little flour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer, but not boil any more, or the kidney would harden; serve very hot, and garnish with croûtons. Where the flavour of the shalot is disliked, it may be omitted, and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted for it. Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the slices.
Mode.—Trim a bit of fat from the kidney, chop it finely, and place it in a frying pan; slice the kidney, sprinkle parsley and shallots over it as described above, add some pepper and salt for seasoning, and fry until it’s brown. Once it’s cooked, sprinkle a bit of flour over it and add the gravy and sherry. Let it simmer gently, but don’t let it boil again, or the kidney will toughen; serve while hot and garnish with croutons. If you don't like the taste of shallots, you can skip them and use a small amount of savory herbs instead. Time.—5 to 10 minutes, depending on how thick the slices are.
Average cost, 9d. each. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Average cost, 9 pence each. Enough for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
III.
A more Simple Method.
A Simpler Method.
634. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nice brown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the fat, putting in a small piece of butter, 1/4 pint of boiling water, pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy just boil up, pour over the kidney, and serve.
634. Slice the kidney thinly, coat them in flour, and fry until golden brown. Once done, make a gravy in the pan by draining the fat, adding a small piece of butter, 1/4 pint of boiling water, salt, and pepper, along with a tablespoon of mushroom ketchup. Allow the gravy to come to a boil, pour it over the kidney, and serve.
BOILED MARROW-BONES.
635. INGREDIENTS.—Bones, a small piece of common paste, a floured cloth.
635. INGREDIENTS.—Bones, a small piece of regular dough, a floured cloth.
Mode.—Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and cover the ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour and water. Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan of boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boil them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve them upright on a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the marrow from the bones after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of toast and add a seasoning of pepper; when served in this manner, it must be very expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold.
Mode.—Cut the bones into manageable pieces, and cover the ends with a small piece of basic dough, made from flour and water. Tie a floured cloth around them, and stand them upright in a pot of boiling water, making sure there's enough water to cover the bones. Boil for 2 hours, then remove the cloth and dough, and serve them upright on a napkin with dry toast. Many people scoop out the marrow after cooking, spread it over a slice of toast, and sprinkle some pepper on top; when served this way, it should be taken to the table quickly, as it gets cold fast.
Time.—2 hours.
Duration.—2 hours.
Seasonable at any time.
Current at any time.
Note.—Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the preceding recipe; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2 hours.
Note.—Marrow bones can be baked after you prepare them like in the previous recipe; they should be placed in a deep dish and baked for 2 hours.
[Illustration: MARROW-BONES.]
[Illustration: BONE MARROW.]
MARROW-BONES.—Bones are formed of a dense cellular tissue of membranous matter, made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy salts; of which, phosphate of lime is the most abundant. In a large bone, the insoluble matter is generally deposited in such a manner as to leave a cavity, into which a fatty substance, distinguished by the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength and lightness in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid, they would be unnecessarily heavy; and if their materials were brought into smaller compass, they would be weaker, because the strength of a bone is in proportion to the distance at which its fibres are from the centre. Some animals, it must, however, be observed, have no cavities in the centre of their bones; such as the whale tribe, skate, and turtles.
MARROW-BONES.—Bones are made of a dense cellular tissue of membranous material, which is made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy salts, with phosphate of lime being the most common. In a large bone, the insoluble material is usually arranged to create a cavity, which is filled with a fatty substance known as marrow. Hollow cylindrical bones have an impressive balance of strength and lightness. If bones were completely solid, they would be unnecessarily heavy; and if their materials were compressed too much, they would be weaker, since the strength of a bone depends on how far its fibers are from the center. However, it's worth noting that some animals, like whales, skates, and turtles, don't have cavities in the center of their bones.
MINCED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
MINCED BEEF (Cold Meat Recipe).
636. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoonful of strong ale, 1/2 a teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean roast beef.
636. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoons of gravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoon of strong ale, 1/2 teaspoon of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean roast beef.
Mode.—Put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine; add the gravy, ale, and 1/2 a teaspoonful of flour to thicken; season with pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until the onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat very fine, add it to the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with sippets of toasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after the meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough.
Mode.—In a saucepan, melt the butter with a finely chopped onion; add the gravy, ale, and 1/2 teaspoon of flour to thicken it; season with pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients on the heat until the onion turns a rich brown. Cut the meat into pieces, but don't chop it too finely, add it to the gravy, stir until it's heated through, and serve. Garnish with small pieces of toasted bread. Be careful not to let the gravy boil after adding the meat, as it will make it tough.
Time.—About 1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 3d.
Time.—About 30 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 3d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
MIROTON OF BEEF.
637. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, 1/2 pint of gravy.
637. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, 1/2 pint of gravy.
Mode.—Slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the cold beef and butter; place it over the fire, and keep turning and stirring the ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale brown, add the gravy and seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve very hot. This dish is excellent and economical.
Method.—Slice the onions and put them in a frying pan with the cold beef and butter; place it on the stove and keep turning and stirring the ingredients to prevent burning. When it’s a light brown, add the gravy and seasoning; let it simmer for a few minutes, and serve very hot. This dish is both excellent and economical.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Time — 5 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Available any time.
STEWED OX-CHEEK.
638. INGREDIENTS.—1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter and flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, 1 oz. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce.
638. INGREDIENTS.—1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter and flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay leaf, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savory herbs, cayenne, black pepper, and salt to taste, 1 oz. of butter, 2 dessert spoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of chili vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce.
Mode.—Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the day before it is to be eaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and water. The next day, wipe it dry and clean, and put it into a stewpan. Just cover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it gently simmer till the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in a little butter and flour, and put them into the gravy; add 2 whole onions, each stuck with 3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots sliced, a bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, a bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black pepper, and salt. Let these stew till perfectly tender; then take out the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table, skim and strain the gravy, and thicken 1-1/2 pint of it with butter and flour in the above proportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; put in the pieces of cheek; let the whole boil up, and serve quite hot. Send it to table in a ragout-dish. If the colour of the gravy should not be very good, add a tablespoonful of the browning, No. 108.
Mode.—Prepare the cheek meat the day before it's to be served by cleaning it and soaking it overnight in saltwater. The next day, dry it off and place it in a stewpot. Just cover it with water, skim the surface when it starts boiling, and let it simmer gently until the meat is tender. Slice and sauté 3 onions in a bit of butter and flour, then add them to the gravy; include 2 whole onions, each pierced with 3 cloves, 3 quartered turnips, 2 sliced carrots, a bay leaf, 1 head of celery, a bunch of herbs, and season it with cayenne, black pepper, and salt to taste. Let these cook until they're very tender; then remove the cheek, cut it into pieces suitable for serving, skim and strain the gravy, and thicken 1.5 pints of it with butter and flour in the same proportions. Mix in the vinegar, ketchup, and port wine; add the cheek pieces back in; bring it all to a boil, and serve hot. Present it in a ragout dish. If the gravy's color isn't appealing, add a tablespoon of browning, No. 108.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 3d. per lb.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 3d. per lb.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
FRIED OX-FEET, or COW-HEEL.
Fried ox feet, or cow heel.
639. INGREDIENTS.—Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, parsley, salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter.
639. INGREDIENTS.—Ox feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, parsley, salt, and cayenne to taste, boiling butter.
Mode.—Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them into pieces about 2 inches long; have ready some fine bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt; dip the pieces of heel into the yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and fry them until of a nice brown in boiling butter.
Mode.—Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, then cut them into pieces about 2 inches long. Prepare some fine bread crumbs mixed with a bit of chopped parsley, cayenne, and salt. Dip the pieces of heel into egg yolk, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and fry them in boiling butter until they are nicely browned.
Time.-1 hour. Average cost, 6d. each.
Duration: 1 hour. Average cost: 6d each.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—Ox-feet may be dressed in various ways, stowed in gravy or plainly boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, the liquor will answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also to give richness to soups or gravies.
Note.—Ox-feet can be prepared in different ways, either covered in gravy or simply boiled and served with melted butter. When boiled, the broth can be used to create sweet or flavorful jellies, and it can also enhance the richness of soups or gravies.
STEWED OX-TAILS.
640. INGREDIENTS.—2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, a small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
640. INGREDIENTS.—2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 teaspoon of whole black pepper, 1 teaspoon of allspice, ½ teaspoon of salt, a small bunch of savory herbs, a thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire; when the water boils, remove the scum, and add the onion cut into rings, the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan closely, and let the tails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about 2-1/2 hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add it to the gravy, and let it boil for 1/4 hour. Strain it through a sieve into a saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon-juice and ketchup; let the whole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croûtons or sippets of toasted bread.
Method.—Cut the tails at the joints, wash them, and place them in a pot with enough water to cover them, then set it on the heat. When the water starts to boil, remove the scum, and add the onion sliced into rings, along with the spices, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the pot tightly, and let the tails simmer very gently until they are tender, which should take about 2.5 hours. Remove them, make a thickening with butter and flour, add it to the gravy, and let it boil for 15 minutes. Strain it through a sieve into another pot, return the tails, and add the lemon juice and ketchup; let everything come to a boil, and serve. Garnish with croûtons or pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—2-1/2 hours to stew the tails.
Time.—2.5 hours to stew the tails.
Average cost, 9d. to 1s. 6d., according to the season.
Average cost, 9 pence to 1 shilling 6 pence, depending on the season.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Good for 8 people.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonal all year round.
THE TAILS OF ANIMALS.—In the class Mammalia, the vertebral column or backbone presents only slight modifications, and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length of this column, however, varies much, and the number of vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform. These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal development of the caudal portion, or tail-end, of the column. Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at all,—amongst certain bats for example; in other instances we reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones. Among the greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use for locomotion, except that it acts in many cases as does the rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some animals, it becomes a very powerful instrument of progression. Thus, in the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forms, with the hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its spring. With most of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and serves the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the branches of trees; and, lastly, among the whales, it grows to an enormous size, and becomes the principal instrument for swimming.
THE TAILS OF ANIMALS.—In the class Mammalia, the vertebral column or backbone shows only slight changes and shares the same characteristics as in humans, who are at the top of this part of the animal kingdom. However, the length of this column varies greatly, and the number of vertebrae it contains is not uniform. These numerical differences mainly come from the varying development of the tail section of the column. For example, some bats completely lack tail-forming vertebrae, while in other cases, there can be forty, fifty, or even more than sixty of these bones. For most mammals, the tail is not very useful for movement; instead, it often acts like a ship's rudder, helping the animal stay steady during fast movements and making it easier and quicker to turn. In some animals, the tail serves as a strong tool for movement. For instance, in kangaroos and jerboas, the tail, along with the hind feet, forms a sort of tripod that the animal uses to jump. Among many American monkeys, the tail is prehensile and acts like a fifth hand, allowing the animal to hang from tree branches. Finally, in whales, the tail grows to an enormous size and becomes the main tool for swimming.
A PICKLE FOR TONGUES OR BEEF (Newmarket Recipe).
A PICKLE FOR TONGUES OR BEEF (Newmarket Recipe).
641. INGREDIENTS.—1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. of coarse salt, 6 oz. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 oz. of saltpetre.
641. INGREDIENTS.—1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. of coarse salt, 6 oz. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 oz. of saltpetre.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil for 1/2 hour, clear off the scum as it rises, and when done pour the pickle into a pickling-pan. Let it get cold, then put in the meat, and allow it to remain in the pickle from 8 to 14 days, according to the size. It will keep good for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongues will take 1 month or 6 weeks to be properly cured; and, in salting meat, beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring them to a boil for 30 minutes, skimming off any scum that forms. Once finished, transfer the pickle to a pickling pan. Allow it to cool, then immerse the meat, letting it sit in the pickle for 8 to 14 days, depending on the size. It will remain good for 6 months if boiled thoroughly every two weeks. Tongues require 1 month to 6 weeks to cure properly, and when salting meat, beef and tongues should always be placed in separate containers.
Time.—A moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about a month, and be turned every day.
Time.—A medium-sized tongue should stay in the pickle for about a month, and it should be turned every day.
[Illustration: POTTING-JAR.]
[Illustration: POTTING JAR.]
POTTED BEEF.
I.
642. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of water, 1/4 lb. of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and black pepper.
642. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoon of water, 1/4 lb. of butter, and seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, ground mace, and black pepper.
Mode.—Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from gristle, skin, &c., and put it into a jar (if at hand, one with a lid) with 1 tablespoonful of water. Cover it closely, and put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water, letting the water come within 2 inches of the top of the jar. Boil gently for 3-1/2 hours, then take the beef, chop it very small with a chopping-knife, and pound it thoroughly in a mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or a portion, of the gravy that will have run from it, and a little clarified butter; add the seasoning, put it in small pots for use, and cover with a little butter just warmed and poured over. If much gravy is added to it, it will keep but a short time; on the contrary, if a large proportion of butter is used, it may be preserved for some time.
Mode.—Get a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from gristle, skin, etc., and place it in a jar (preferably one with a lid) with 1 tablespoon of water. Seal it tight, and put the jar into a pot of boiling water, making sure the water comes within 2 inches of the top of the jar. Boil gently for 3.5 hours, then remove the beef, chop it very finely with a knife, and pound it thoroughly in a mortar. Gradually mix in all or some of the juices that will have run from it, along with a little clarified butter; add the seasoning, place it in small containers for use, and cover with a little melted butter poured over. If too much gravy is added, it won't last long; conversely, if you use a lot of butter, it can be stored for a longer time.
Time.—3-1/2 hours. Average cost, for this quantity, 1s. 8d.
Time.—3.5 hours. Average cost, for this quantity, £0.08.
Seasonable at any time.
Available anytime.
POTTED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).
Potted Beef (Cold Meat Recipe).
II.
643. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, 1/4 lb. of butter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace.
643. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast or boiled beef, 1/4 lb. of butter, cayenne pepper to taste, and 2 blades of ground mace.
Mode.—As we have stated in recipe No. 608, the outside slices of boiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very nice addition to the breakfast-table. Cut up the meat into small pieces and pound it well, with a little butter, in a mortar; add a seasoning of cayenne and mace, and be very particular that the latter ingredient is reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, put it into glass or earthen potting-pots, and pour on the top a coating of clarified butter.
Mode.—As we mentioned in recipe No. 608, the outer slices of boiled beef can be easily transformed into a great breakfast addition. Cut the meat into small pieces and pound it well with some butter in a mortar; add a pinch of cayenne and mace, making sure the mace is finely powdered. Once all the ingredients are well mixed, place them into glass or earthen pots and pour a layer of clarified butter on top.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Note.—If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle and dry outside pieces, as these do not pound well.
Note.—If you're using cold roast beef, take off all the gristle and any dried-out edges, since these don't mash well.
PRESERVED MEATS.—When an organic substance, like the flesh of animals, is heated to the boiling-point, it loses the property of passing into a state of fermentation and decay. Fresh animal milk, as is well known, coagulates, after having been kept for two or three days, into a gelatinous mass; but it may be preserved for an indefinite period, as a perfectly sweet liquid, if it be heated daily to the boiling-point. The knowledge of this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most important branch of industry,—namely, the preparation of preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant service. At Leith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at Bordeaux, at Marseilles, and in many parts of Germany, establishments of enormous magnitude exist, in which soup, vegetables, and viands of every description are prepared, in such a manner that they retain their freshness for years. The prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters of tinned iron plate, the covers are soldered air-tight, and the canisters exposed to the temperature of boiling water for three or four hours. The aliments thus acquire a stability, which one may almost say is eternal; and when a canister is opened, after the lapse of several years, its contents are found to be unaltered in taste, colour, and smell. We are indebted to the French philosopher Gay-Lussac for this beautiful practical application of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health; and, in former times, thousands of mariners lost their lives for the want of fresh aliments during long voyages. We are sorry to say that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and, though the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated. Dr. Lankester, who has done so much to expose the frauds of trade, that he ought to be regarded as a public benefactor, says that he has seen things which were utterly unfit for food, shipped as preserved meats. Surely, as he observes, there ought to be some superintendent to examine the so-called articles of food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men who have been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being starved or poisoned on their way home.
PRESERVED MEATS.—When an organic substance, like animal flesh, is heated to boiling, it loses the ability to ferment and decay. Fresh animal milk, as we all know, coagulates into a gelatinous mass after being stored for two or three days, but it can be preserved as a perfectly sweet liquid for an indefinite time if it is heated to boiling every day. Understanding this effect of high temperature has led to a vital industry—namely, the production of preserved meats for the navy and commercial ships. In Leith near Edinburgh, in Aberdeen, Bordeaux, Marseilles, and many parts of Germany, there are large facilities where soup, vegetables, and various dishes are prepared to retain their freshness for years. The prepared foods are sealed in airtight tin canisters, which are then heated in boiling water for three or four hours. This process gives the food a stability that can almost be considered eternal; when a canister is opened after several years, its contents remain unchanged in taste, color, and smell. We owe this remarkable practical application of the discovery that boiling halts fermentation to the French philosopher Gay-Lussac. A diet consisting only of preserved meats is extremely harmful to health; in the past, thousands of sailors lost their lives due to a lack of fresh food during long voyages. Unfortunately, preserved meats are sometimes carelessly produced, and incredibly, they can occasionally be adulterated. Dr. Lankester, who has done a lot to expose trade fraud, should be considered a public benefactor, as he has seen items completely unfit for consumption shipped as preserved meats. As he points out, there should definitely be an inspector to examine these so-called food items taken on board ships so that the brave men who have fought for us abroad are not at risk of being starved or poisoned on their journey home.
RIB OF BEEF BONES.
(A Pretty Dish.)
(A Beautiful Plate.)
644. INGREDIENTS.—Rib of beef bones, 1 onion chopped fine, a few slices of carrot and turnip, 1/4 pint of gravy.
644. INGREDIENTS.—Beef rib bones, 1 finely chopped onion, a few slices of carrot and turnip, 1/4 pint of gravy.
Mode.—The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight covering of meat; saw them into pieces 3 inches long; season them with pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients. Stew gently, until the vegetables are tender, and serve on a flat dish within walls of mashed potatoes.
Mode.—The bones for this dish should have a thin layer of meat on them; cut them into 3-inch pieces; season them with salt and pepper, and place them in a saucepan with the other ingredients. Simmer gently until the vegetables are soft, and serve on a flat dish surrounded by mashed potatoes.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the bones, 2d.
Time: 45 minutes. Average cost, not including the bones, 2 pence.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).
BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cooking).
645. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of meat allow 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few chopped savoury herbs, 1/2 a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2 eggs, according to the quantity of meat.
645. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast beef; for each pound of meat, use 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few chopped savory herbs, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, and 1 or 2 eggs, depending on the amount of meat.
Mode.—Mince the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and mix with this bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, in the above proportion, to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste with 1 or 2 eggs; divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish the dish with fried parsley, and send with them to table some good brown gravy in a tureen. Instead of garnishing with fried parsley, gravy may be poured in the dish, round the rissoles: in this case, it will not be necessary to send any in a tureen.
Method.—Finely mince the beef, making sure it's fairly lean, and mix it with bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon zest in the specified proportion for each pound of meat. Combine everything into a thick paste using 1 or 2 eggs; shape into balls or cones, and fry until they turn a rich brown. Garnish the dish with fried parsley, and serve it with some good brown gravy in a bowl. Alternatively, you can pour the gravy around the rissoles directly on the plate, in which case you won't need to serve any separately.
Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.
Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the size.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 5d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 5d.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable for any time.
ROLLED BEEF, to eat like Hare.
ROLLED BEEF, to eat like a rabbit.
646. INGREDIENTS.—About 5 lbs. of the inside of the sirloin, 2 glasses of port wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity of forcemeat (No. 417), 1 teaspoonful of pounded allspice.
646. INGREDIENTS.—About 5 lbs. of the inside of the sirloin, 2 cups of port wine, 2 cups of vinegar, a small amount of forcemeat (No. 417), 1 teaspoon of ground allspice.
Mode.—Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass of port wine and 1 glass of vinegar, mixed, and let it remain for 2 days. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, lay it on the meat, and bind it up securely. Roast it before a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 glass each of port wine and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful of pounded allspice. Serve, with a good gravy in the dish, and send red-currant jelly to table with it.
Mode.—Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 cup of port wine and 1 cup of vinegar, mixed, and let it sit for 2 days. Make a forcemeat using recipe No. 417, spread it on the meat, and wrap it up tightly. Roast it over a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 cup each of port wine and vinegar, combined with a teaspoon of ground allspice. Serve it with a rich gravy on the dish, and bring red-currant jelly to the table alongside it.
Time.—A piece of 5 lbs. about 1-1/2 hour before a brisk fire.
Time.—Cook for about 1-1/2 hours over a brisk fire for a 5 lb piece.
Average cost, for this quantity, 5s. 4d.
Average cost, for this quantity, £5.20.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BEEF ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).
BEEF ROLLS (Cold Meat Recipe).
647. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs; puff paste.
647. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast or boiled beef, seasoned with salt, pepper, and minced herbs to taste; puff pastry.
Mode.—Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its own fat; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs; put the whole into a roll of puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer, should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat, by mincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich puff paste in patty-tins.
Method.—Chop the beef fairly finely with a little of its own fat; add some pepper, salt, and chopped herbs for seasoning; place everything in a roll of puff pastry, and bake for about 30 minutes, or longer if the roll is particularly large. You can also make beef patties using leftover meat by chopping and seasoning the beef as described above, and baking it in rich puff pastry in patty tins.
Time,—1/2 hour.
Time,—30 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. (An Excellent Dish for a Small Family.)
MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF. (A Great Dish for a Small Family.)
648. INGREDIENTS.—From 5 to 10 lbs. of rib of beef, sufficient brine to cover the meat.
648. INGREDIENTS.—5 to 10 lbs. of beef rib, enough brine to cover the meat.
Mode.—Choose a fine rib, have the bone removed, rub some salt over the inside, and skewer the meat up into a nice round form, and bind it with tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it (the brine should be made by recipe No. 654), and let it remain for 6 days, turning the meat every day. When required to be dressed, drain from the pickle, and put the meat into very hot water; let it boil rapidly for a few minutes, when draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done. Remove the skewer, and replace it by a plated or silver one. Carrots and turnips should be served with this dish, and may be boiled with the meat.
Mode.—Select a good rib, remove the bone, sprinkle some salt on the inside, then skewer the meat into a nice round shape and tie it up with tape. Place it in enough brine to cover it (the brine should be made according to recipe No. 654) and let it soak for 6 days, turning the meat each day. When it's time to cook, drain it from the brine and put the meat into very hot water; let it boil rapidly for a few minutes, then move the pot to the side of the heat and let it simmer gently until it's cooked. Take out the skewer and replace it with a plated or silver one. Serve this dish with carrots and turnips, which can be boiled along with the meat.
Time.—A small round of 8 lbs., about 2 hours after the water boils; one of 12 lbs., about 3 hours.
Time.—A small one weighing 8 lbs. takes about 2 hours after the water boils; one that weighs 12 lbs. takes about 3 hours.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
Note.—Should the joint be very small, 4 or 5 days will be sufficient time to salt it.
Note.—If the joint is very small, 4 or 5 days will be enough time to salt it.
BRISKET OF BEEF, a la Flamande.
BRISKET OF BEEF, in the Flemish style.
649. INGREDIENTS.—About 6 or 8 lbs. of the brisket of beef, 4 or 5 slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace.
649. INGREDIENTS.—About 6 or 8 lbs. of beef brisket, 4 or 5 slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace.
Mode.—Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the gristle, trim it, and put it into a stewpan with the slices of bacon, which should be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices, and seasoning, and cover with a little weak stock or water; close the stewpan as hermetically as possible, and simmer very gently for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion of it for sauce, and the remainder boil quickly over a sharp fire until reduced to a glaze, with which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped carrots and turnips, and when liked, a little cabbage; all of which must be cooked separately. Thicken and flavour the liquor that was saved for sauce, pour it round the meat, and serve. The beef may also be garnished with glazed onions, artichoke-bottoms, &c.
Mode.—Select the part of the brisket that has gristle, trim it, and place it in a stewpan with slices of bacon layered underneath and on top of the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices, and seasoning, then cover it with some weak stock or water; seal the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it simmer very gently for 4 hours. Strain the liquid, set aside some for sauce, and quickly boil the rest over high heat until it reduces to a glaze, which you'll use to coat the meat. Decorate the dish with scooped-out carrots and turnips, and, if desired, a bit of cabbage; all these should be cooked separately. Thicken and flavor the liquid saved for the sauce, pour it around the meat, and serve. The beef can also be garnished with glazed onions, artichoke bottoms, etc.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Time - 4 hours. Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Enough for 6 or 8 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
FRENCH BEEF.—It has been all but universally admitted, that the beef of France is greatly inferior in quality to that of England, owing to inferiority of pasturage. M. Curmer, however, one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that this is a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to that of England. This is mere vaunting on the part of our neighbours, who seem to want la gloire in everything; and we should not deign to notice it, if it had occurred in a work of small pretensions; but M. Curmer's book professes to be a complete exposition of the scientific principles of cookery, and holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France. We half suspect that M. Curmer obtained his knowledge of English beef in the same way as did the poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr. Mathews, the comedian, so humorously described. Mr. Lewis, in his "Physiology of Common Life," has thus revived the story of the beef-eating son of France:—"A Frenchman was one day blandly remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for his part, did not find so inferior to that of England. 'I have been two times in England,' he remarked, but I nevère find the bif so supérieur to ours. I find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on leetle pieces of stick, for one penny: but I do not find the bif supérieur.' On hearing this, the Englishman, red with astonishment, exclaimed, 'Good heavens, sir! you have been eating cat's meat.'" No, M. Curmer, we are ready to acknowledge the superiority of your cookery, but we have long since made up our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material.
FRENCH BEEF.—It is almost universally accepted that French beef is much lower in quality compared to English beef, primarily due to inferior grazing conditions. However, M. Curmer, a recent author on the culinary arts, claims this is a common misconception and that French beef is actually far superior to English beef. This is just bragging from our neighbors, who seem to crave glory in everything; we wouldn't bother addressing it if it came from someone with lesser credentials, but M. Curmer's book is supposed to be a comprehensive exploration of the scientific principles of cooking and holds a significant place in French educational literature. We suspect M. Curmer learned about English beef in the same way as the unfortunate Frenchman described so humorously by the late Mr. Mathews, the comedian. Mr. Lewis, in his "Physiology of Common Life," recounts the story of a Frenchman complaining about the arrogant disdain English people express towards French beef, which he, personally, did not see as inferior. "I've been to England twice," he said, "but I never found the beef to be superior to ours. I find it quite convenient that they serve it on little sticks for a penny: but I don’t find the beef superior." Upon hearing this, the Englishman, turning red with shock, exclaimed, "Good heavens, sir! You have been eating cat's meat." No, M. Curmer, we are willing to admit your cooking skills are excellent, but we've long decided that your raw ingredients are lacking.
BEEF OLIVES.
I.
650. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock, No. 105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls of any store sauce, a slight thickening of butter and flour.
650. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon of minced savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock, No. 105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoons of any store-bought sauce, a slight thickening of butter and flour.
Mode.—Have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to make them level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, and sprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced; season with pepper and salt, and roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with a small skewer. Put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for by being pressed together, they will keep their shape better; lay in the rolls of meat, cover them with the bacon, cut in thin slices, and over that put a piece of paper. Stew them very gently for full 2 hours; for the slower they are done the better. Take them out, remove the skewers, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and flavour with any store sauce that may be preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the steaks fairly thin, gently pound them to make them level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush them with egg, and sprinkle with finely chopped herbs; season with salt and pepper, then tightly roll up the pieces and secure them with a small skewer. Place the stock in a stewpan that fits them perfectly, as being pressed together helps them hold their shape better; lay the meat rolls in, cover with thin slices of bacon, and place a piece of paper over that. Simmer them very gently for a full 2 hours; the slower they cook, the better. Remove them from the pot, take out the skewers, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and add any preferred sauce for flavor. Bring it to a boil, pour it over the meat, and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. per pound.
Time: 2 hours. Average cost: £0.01 per pound.
Sufficient for 4 or 6 persons.
Enough for 4 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate for any season.
II.
(Economical.)
(Affordable.)
651. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of underdone cold roast beef, bread crumbs, 1 shalot finely minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy made from the beef bones, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
651. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover undercooked cold roast beef, bread crumbs, 1 finely chopped shallot, pepper and salt to taste, gravy made from the beef bones, a thickening mix of butter and flour, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut some slices of underdone roast beef about half an inch thick; sprinkle over them some bread crumbs, minced shalot, and a little of the fat and seasoning; roll them, and fasten with a small skewer. Have ready some gravy made from the beef bones; put in the pieces of meat, and stew them till tender, which will be in about 1-1/4 hour, or rather longer. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and flavour the gravy, and pour it over the meat, when it is ready to serve.
Mode.—Cut some slices of slightly undercooked roast beef about half an inch thick; sprinkle some bread crumbs, minced shallot, and a bit of fat and seasoning on them; roll them up and secure with a small skewer. Have some gravy ready made from the beef bones; add the pieces of meat and simmer until tender, which will take about 1-1/4 hours, or a bit longer. Arrange the meat on a plate, thicken and flavor the gravy, and pour it over the meat when you’re ready to serve.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the beef, 2d.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, not including the beef, 2d.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate any time.
BROILED OX-TAIL (an Entree).
Broiled oxtail (an entree).
652. INGREDIENTS.—2 tails, 1-1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, salt and cayenne to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg.
652. INGREDIENTS.—2 tails, 1.5 pints of stock, No. 105, salt and cayenne to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg.
Mode.—Joint and cut up the tails into convenient-sized pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with the stock, cayenne, and salt, and, if liked very savoury, a bunch of sweet herbs. Let them simmer gently for about 2-1/2 hours; then take them out, drain them, and let them cool. Beat an egg upon a plate; dip in each piece of tail, and, afterwards, throw them into a dish of bread crumbs; broil them over a clear fire, until of a brownish colour on both sides, and serve with a good gravy, or any sauce that may be preferred.
Mode.—Chop the tails into manageable pieces and place them in a pot with the stock, cayenne, and salt, and if you want a stronger flavor, add a bunch of sweet herbs. Let them simmer gently for about 2 1/2 hours; then remove them, drain, and allow them to cool. Beat an egg on a plate; dip each piece of tail in it, and then coat them with bread crumbs. Grill them over a clear fire until they turn a brownish color on both sides, and serve with a good gravy or any sauce you prefer.
Time.—About 2-1/2 hours. Average cost, from 9d. to 1s. 6d., according to the season.
Time.—About 2.5 hours. Average cost, from 9 pence to 1 shilling 6 pence, depending on the season.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable at any time.
Note.—These may be more easily prepared by putting the tails in a brisk oven, after they have been dipped in egg and bread-crumb; and, when brown, they are done. They must be boiled the same time as for broiling.
Note.—These can be prepared more easily by placing the tails in a hot oven after dipping them in egg and breadcrumbs; when they turn brown, they are ready. They should be boiled for the same amount of time as for broiling.
STRANGE TAILS.—Naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of the strange tails borne by animals. In the Egyptian and Syrian sheep, for instance, the tail grows so large, that it is not infrequently supported upon a sort of little cart, in order to prevent inconvenience to the animal. Thin monstrous appendage sometimes attains a weight of seventy, eighty, or even a hundred pounds.
STRANGE TAILS.—Scientists can't explain the purposes of some of the unusual tails that animals have. For example, in Egyptian and Syrian sheep, the tail grows so large that it's often supported on a small cart to avoid discomfort for the animal. This thin, monstrous appendage can sometimes weigh seventy, eighty, or even a hundred pounds.
TO DRESS BEEF PALATES (an Entree).
TO DRESS BEEF PALATES (an Entrée).
653. INGREDIENTS.—4 palates, sufficient gravy to cover them (No. 438), cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of pickled-onion liquor, thickening of butter and flour.
653. INGREDIENTS.—4 palates, enough gravy to cover them (No. 438), cayenne pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoon of pickled onion juice, thickening made from butter and flour.
Mode.—Wash the palates, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficient water to cover them, and let them boil until perfectly tender, or until the upper skin may be easily peeled off. Have ready sufficient gravy (No. 438) to cover them; add a good seasoning of cayenne, and thicken with roux, No. 625, or a little butter kneaded with flour; let it boil up, and skim. Cut the palates into square pieces, put them in the gravy, and let them simmer gently for 1/2 hour; add ketchup and onion-liquor, give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Wash the palates and place them in a saucepan with enough water to cover them. Boil until they are completely tender or the top skin can be easily peeled off. Prepare enough gravy (No. 438) to cover them; add a good amount of cayenne seasoning and thicken it with roux (No. 625) or a bit of butter mixed with flour. Let it boil and skim off any foam. Cut the palates into square pieces, add them to the gravy, and let them simmer gently for 30 minutes; then add ketchup and onion juice, bring to a boil, and serve.
Time.—From 3 to 5 hours to boil the palates.
Time.—It takes 3 to 5 hours to boil the palates.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Available anytime.
Note.—Palates may be dressed in various ways with sauce tournée, good onion sauce, tomato sauce, and also served in a vol-au-vent; but the above will be found a more simple method of dressing them.
Note.—Palates can be prepared in different ways with sauce tournée, a good onion sauce, tomato sauce, or even served in a vol-au-vent; however, the method described above is a simpler way to prepare them.
BEEF PICKLE, which may also be used for any kind of Meat, Tongues, or
Hams.
BEEF PICKLE, which can also be used for any type of meat, tongues, or
hams.
654. INGREDIENTS.—6 lbs. of salt, 2 lbs. of fine sugar, 3 oz. of powdered saltpetre, 3 gallons of spring water.
654. INGREDIENTS.—6 lbs. of salt, 2 lbs. of fine sugar, 3 oz. of powdered saltpetre, 3 gallons of spring water.
Mode.—Boil all the ingredients gently together, so long as any scum or impurity arises, which carefully remove; when quite cold, pour it over the meat, every part of which must be covered with the brine. This may be used for pickling any kind of meat, and may be kept for some time, if boiled up occasionally with an addition of the ingredients.
Mode.—Gently boil all the ingredients together until any scum or impurities appear, which you should carefully remove; once it's completely cool, pour it over the meat, making sure every part is covered with the brine. This can be used for pickling any type of meat, and can be stored for a while if it's occasionally boiled again with more ingredients.
Time.—A ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight; a piece of beef weighing 14 lbs., 12 or 15 days; a tongue, 10 days or a fortnight.
Time.—A ham should be kept in the brine for two weeks; a piece of beef weighing 14 lbs. should stay in for 12 to 15 days; a tongue should be cured for 10 days to two weeks.
Note.—For salting and pickling meat, it is a good plan to rub in only half the quantity of salt directed, and to let it remain for a day or two to disgorge and effectually to get rid of the blood and slime; then rub in the remainder of the salt and other ingredients, and proceed as above. This rule may be applied to all the recipes we have given for salting and pickling meat.
Note.—For salting and pickling meat, it’s a good idea to use only half the amount of salt recommended and let it sit for a day or two to draw out and thoroughly remove the blood and slime; then add the rest of the salt and other ingredients, and continue as described above. This guideline can be applied to all the recipes we've provided for salting and pickling meat.
TO PICKLE PART OF A ROUND OF BEEF FOR HANGING.
655. INGREDIENTS.—For 14 lbs. of a round of beef allow 1-1/2 lb. of salt, 1/2 oz. of powdered saltpetre; or, 1 lb. of salt, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 4 oz. of powdered saltpetre.
655. INGREDIENTS.—For 14 lbs. of a round of beef, use 1.5 lbs. of salt, 0.5 oz. of powdered saltpeter; or, 1 lb. of salt, 0.5 lb. of sugar, 4 oz. of powdered saltpeter.
Mode.—Rub in, and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on 14 lbs. of meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, or a deep wooden tray, and turn twice a week during 3 weeks; then bind up the beef tightly with coarse linen tape, and hang it in a kitchen in which a fire is constantly kept, for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon may be cured in a similar way, but will require double the quantity of the salting mixture; and, if not smoke-dried, they should be taken down from hanging after 3 or 4 weeks, and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs, amongst dry oat-husks.
Method.—Rub in and sprinkle either of the mixtures above on 14 lbs. of meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan or a deep wooden tray, and turn it twice a week for 3 weeks. Then wrap the beef tightly with coarse linen tape and hang it in a kitchen where a fire is kept going constantly for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon can be cured in a similar way, but will need double the amount of the salting mixture; and if they aren’t smoke-dried, they should be taken down after 3 or 4 weeks and stored in boxes or tubs with dry oat husks.
Time.—2 or 3 weeks to remain in the brine; to be hung 3 weeks.
Time.—2 or 3 weeks to stay in the brine; to be hung for 3 weeks.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
Note.—The meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle, instead of smoking it.
Note.—You can boil the meat directly from this marinade instead of smoking it.
BEEP RAGOUT (Cold Meat Cookery).
BEEP RAGOUT (Cold Meat Cooking).
656. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 6 onions, pepper, salt, and mixed spices to taste; 1/2 pint of boiling water, 3 tablespoonfuls of gravy.
656. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 6 onions, pepper, salt, and mixed spices to taste; 1/2 pint of boiling water, 3 tablespoons of gravy.
Mode.—Cut the beef into rather large pieces, and put them into a stewpan with the onions, which must be sliced. Season well with pepper, salt, and mixed spices, and pour over about 1/2 pint of boiling water, and gravy in the above proportion (gravy saved from the meat answers the purpose); let the whole stew very gently for about 2 hours, and serve with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just warmed in the gravy.
Mode.—Cut the beef into fairly large chunks and place them in a stewpot with sliced onions. Season generously with pepper, salt, and a mix of spices, then pour in about 1/2 pint of boiling water along with gravy in the same proportion (gravy saved from the meat works well); let everything simmer very gently for about 2 hours and serve with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just warmed up in the gravy.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable anytime.
ROAST RIBS OF BEEF.
657. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, a little salt.
657. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—-The fore-rib is considered the primest roasting piece, but the middle-rib is considered the most economical. Let the meat be well hung (should the weather permit), and cut off the thin ends of the bones, which should be salted for a few days, and then boiled. Put the meat down to a nice clear fire, put some clean dripping into the pan, dredge the joint with a little flour, and keep continually basting the whole time. Sprinkle some fine salt over it (this must never be done until the joint is dished, as it draws the juices from the meat); pour the dripping from the pan, put in a little boiling: water slightly salted, and strain the gravy over the meat. Garnish with tufts of scraped horseradish, and send horseradish sauce to table with it (see No. 447). A Yorkshire pudding (see Puddings) sometimes accompanies this dish, and, if lightly made and well cooked, will be found a very agreeable addition.
Method.—The fore-rib is considered the best cut for roasting, but the middle-rib is seen as the most cost-effective. Make sure the meat is aged properly (if the weather allows), and trim the thin ends of the bones, which should be salted for a few days and then boiled. Place the meat over a nice clear fire, add some clean drippings to the pan, lightly coat the joint with flour, and keep basting it continuously. Sprinkle some fine salt over it (this should only be done once the joint is served, as it draws out the juices); pour the drippings from the pan, add a little boiling water that’s lightly salted, and strain the gravy over the meat. Garnish with small mounds of scraped horseradish and serve horseradish sauce alongside it (see No. 447). A Yorkshire pudding (see Puddings) often accompanies this dish, and if made lightly and cooked well, will be a very pleasant addition.
Time.—10 lbs. of beef, 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., from 3-1/2 to 4 hours.
Time.—10 lbs. of beef, 2.5 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., from 3.5 to 4 hours.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5d. per lb.
Sufficient.—A joint of 10 lbs. sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
Sufficient.—A portion of 10 lbs. is enough for 8 or 9 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
MEMORANDA IN ROASTING.—The management of the fire is a point of primary importance in roasting. A radiant fire throughout the operation is absolutely necessary to insure a good result. When the article to be dressed is thin and delicate, the fire may be small; but when the joint is large, the fire must fill the grate. Meat must never be put down before a hollow or exhausted fire, which may soon want recruiting; on the other hand, if the heat of the fire becomes too fierce, the meat must be removed to a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated. Some cooks always fail in their roasts, though they succeed in nearly everything else. A French writer on the culinary art says that anybody can learn how to cook, but one must be born a roaster. According to Liebig, beef or mutton cannot be said to be sufficiently roasted until it has acquired, throughout the whole mass, a temperature of 158°; but poultry may be well cooked when the inner parts have attained a temperature of from 130° to 140°. This depends on the greater amount of blood which beef and mutton contain, the colouring matter of blood not being coagulable under 158°.
MEMORANDA IN ROASTING.—Managing the fire is a key factor in roasting. A consistent radiant fire during the entire process is essential for achieving a good result. When the item being cooked is thin and delicate, you can use a smaller fire; however, for larger cuts, the fire must fill the grate. Meat should never be placed in front of a faint or dwindling fire that might need to be replenished soon; conversely, if the fire gets too intense, the meat must be moved away until the heat diminishes. Some cooks consistently struggle with their roasts, even if they excel in nearly everything else. A French author on cooking says that anyone can learn to cook, but one must be naturally skilled at roasting. According to Liebig, beef or mutton isn't considered fully roasted until the internal temperature reaches 158°F throughout; however, poultry can be adequately cooked when the inner parts reach between 130°F and 140°F. This is due to the higher blood content in beef and mutton, as the coloring matter in blood doesn’t coagulate below 158°F.
ROAST RIBS OF BEEF, Boned and Rolled (a very Convenient Joint for a
Small Family).
ROAST RIBS OF BEEF, Boned and Rolled (a very convenient cut for a
small family).
658. INGREDIENTS.—1 or 2 ribs of beef.
658. INGREDIENTS.—1 or 2 ribs of beef.
Mode.—Choose a fine rib of beef, and have it cut according to the weight you require, either wide or narrow. Bone and roll the meat round, secure it with wooden skewers, and, if necessary, bind it round with a piece of tape. Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle-jack is used, put the joint on the hook, and place it near a nice clear fire. Let it remain so till the outside of the meat is set, when draw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is done, which can be ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire. As this joint is solid, rather more than 1/4 hour must be allowed for each lb. Remove the skewers, put in a plated or silver one, and send the joint to table with gravy in the dish, and garnish with tufts of horseradish. Horseradish sauce, No. 447, is a great improvement to roast beef.
Mode.—Choose a good rib of beef and have it cut to your desired weight, either thick or thin. Remove the bone and roll the meat, securing it with wooden skewers, and if needed, tie it with a piece of tape. Skewering the beef securely, or if using a bottle-jack, place the joint on the hook and position it near a nice clear fire. Let it stay there until the outside of the meat is set, then move it back and continue basting until it's done, which can be determined by the steam rising towards the fire. Since this joint is substantial, allow a little over 1/4 hour for each lb. After cooking, remove the skewers, insert a plated or silver one, and serve the joint on a platter with gravy in the dish, garnished with sprigs of horseradish. Horseradish sauce, No. 447, is a great addition to roast beef.
Time.—For 10 lbs. of the rolled ribs, 3 hours (as the joint is very solid, we have allowed an extra 1/2 hour); for 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—For 10 lbs. of rolled ribs, 3 hours (since the joint is very solid, we've added an extra 1/2 hour); for 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hours.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5d. per lb.
Sufficient.—A joint of 10 lbs. for 6 or 8 persons.
Sufficient.—A portion of 10 lbs. for 6 or 8 people.
Seasonable all the year.
Seasonal all year round.
Note.—When the weight exceeds 10 lbs., we would not advise the above method of boning and rolling; only in the case of 1 or 2 ribs, when the joint cannot stand upright in the dish, and would look awkward. The bones should be put in with a few vegetables and herbs, and made into stock.
Note.—When the weight goes over 10 lbs., we don't recommend the method of boning and rolling mentioned above; only for 1 or 2 ribs, when the joint can't stand upright in the dish and would look awkward. The bones should be added with some vegetables and herbs to make stock.
ROAST BEEF has long been a national dish in England. In most of our patriotic songs it is contrasted with the fricasseed frogs, popularly supposed to be the exclusive diet of Frenchmen.
ROAST BEEF has long been a national dish in England. In most of our patriotic songs, it is compared to the fricasseed frogs, which are commonly thought to be the only food that Frenchmen eat.
"O the roast beef of old England,
And O the old English roast beef."
"O the roast beef of old England,
And O the old English roast beef."
This national chorus is appealed to whenever a song-writer wishes to account for the valour displayed by Englishmen at sea or on land.
This national chorus is called upon whenever a songwriter wants to explain the bravery shown by Englishmen at sea or on land.
ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
659. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, a little salt.
659. INGREDIENTS.—Beef, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—As a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire, see that it is well made up about 3/4 hour before it is required, so that when the joint is put down, it is clear and bright. Choose a nice sirloin, the weight of which should not exceed 16 lbs., as the outside would be too much done, whilst the inside would not be done enough. Spit it or hook it on to the jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour, and place it near the fire at first, as directed in the preceding recipe. Then draw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the meat is done. Sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it, empty the dripping-pan of all the dripping, pour in some boiling water slightly salted, stir it about, and strain over the meat. Garnish with tufts of horseradish, and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding to table with it. For carving, see p. 317.
Mode.—Just like you can't roast a joint well without a good fire, make sure it's ready about 45 minutes before you need it, so that when you start roasting, it’s nice and bright. Choose a good sirloin that weighs no more than 16 lbs., since a larger piece would end up overcooked on the outside and undercooked on the inside. Secure it on the spit or hook it onto the jack firmly, lightly dust it with flour, and place it near the fire initially, as mentioned in the earlier recipe. Then move it back to a distance and keep basting it continuously until it’s cooked through. Sprinkle a little salt on it, empty the dripping pan of all the fat, pour in some boiling water with a bit of salt, stir it around, and strain it over the meat. Garnish with sprigs of horseradish and serve horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding alongside it. For carving, see p. 317.
Time.—A sirloin of 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., about 4 or 4-1/2 hours.
Time.—A 10 lb. sirloin, 2-1/2 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., about 4 or 4-1/2 hours.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5d. per lb.
Sufficient.—A joint of 10 lbs. for 8 or 9 persons.
Sufficient.—A portion of 10 lbs. for 8 or 9 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
The rump, round, and other pieces of beef are roasted in the same manner, allowing for solid joints; 1/4 hour to every lb.
The rump, round, and other cuts of beef are roasted the same way, allowing for firm joints; 15 minutes for every pound.
Note.—-The above is the usual method of roasting moat; but to have it in perfection and the juices kept in, the meat should at first be laid close to the fire, and when the outside is set and firm, drawn away to a good distance, and then left to roast very slowly; where economy is studied, this plan would not answer, as the meat requires to be at the fire double the time of the ordinary way of cooking; consequently, double the quantity of fuel would be consumed.
Note.—The method described above is the typical way to roast meat; however, to achieve perfection and retain the juices, the meat should first be placed close to the fire. Once the outside has set and become firm, it should be moved away to a good distance and allowed to roast very slowly. If you're trying to save money, this method wouldn't be practical since the meat needs to be cooked for twice as long as the usual method, which means you'll use double the amount of fuel.
ORIGIN OF THE WORD "SIRLOIN."—The loin of beef is said to have been knighted by King Charles II., at Friday Hall, Chingford. The "Merry Monarch" returned to this hospitable mansion for Epping Forest literally "as hungry as a hunter," and beheld, with delight, a huge loin of beef steaming upon the table. "A noble joint!" exclaimed the king. "By St. George, it shall have a title!" Then drawing his sword, he raised it above the meat, and cried, with mock dignity, "Loin, we dub thee knight; henceforward be Sir Loin!" This anecdote is doubtless apocryphal, although the oak table upon which the joint was supposed to have received its knighthood, might have been seen by any one who visited Friday-Hill House, a few years ago. It is, perhaps, a pity to spoil so noble a story; but the interests of truth demand that we declare that sirloin is probably a corruption of surloin, which signifies the upper part of a loin, the prefix sur being equivalent to over or above. In French we find this joint called surlonge, which so closely resembles our sirloin, that we may safely refer the two words to a common origin.
ORIGIN OF THE WORD "SIRLOIN."—It's said that the loin of beef was knighted by King Charles II. at Friday Hall, Chingford. The "Merry Monarch" returned to this welcoming mansion in Epping Forest literally "as hungry as a hunter" and was delighted to see a huge loin of beef steaming on the table. "What a noble cut!" exclaimed the king. "By St. George, it shall have a title!" Then, drawing his sword, he raised it above the meat and declared, with mock dignity, "Loin, we knight you; from now on, you shall be Sir Loin!" While this story is likely apocryphal, the oak table where the meat supposedly received its knighthood could have been seen by anyone who visited Friday-Hill House a few years ago. It's a shame to tarnish such a grand tale, but the truth is that "sirloin" probably comes from "surloin," which means the upper part of a loin, with the prefix "sur" meaning "over" or "above." In French, this cut is called "surlonge," which closely resembles our "sirloin," indicating that both words likely share a common origin.
TO SALT BEEF.
660. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 round of beef, 4 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of powdered saltpetre, 2 oz. of black pepper, 1/4 lb. of bay-salt, 1/2 lb. of common salt. Mode.—Rub the meat well with salt, and let it remain for a day, to disgorge and clear it from slime. The next day, rub it well with the above ingredients on every side, and let it remain in the pickle for about a fortnight, turning it every day. It may be boiled fresh from the pickle, or smoked.
660. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 round of beef, 4 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of powdered saltpetre, 2 oz. of black pepper, 1/4 lb. of bay salt, 1/2 lb. of regular salt. Mode.—Rub the meat thoroughly with salt and let it rest for a day to drain and remove slime. The next day, rub it well with the ingredients listed on all sides, and let it soak in the brine for about two weeks, turning it every day. It can be boiled fresh from the brine or smoked.
Time.—1/2 round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight. Average cost, 7d. per lb. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—1/2 round of beef should stay in brine for about two weeks. Average cost, 7d. per lb. Seasonable at any time.
Note.—The aitch-bone, flank, or brisket may be salted and pickled by any of the recipes we have given for salting beef, allowing less time for small joints to remain in the pickle; for instance, a joint of 8 or 9 lbs. will be sufficiently salt in about a week.
Note.—The aitch-bone, flank, or brisket can be salted and pickled using any of the recipes we've provided for salting beef, but with shorter pickling times for smaller cuts; for example, a cut weighing 8 or 9 pounds will be properly salted in about a week.
THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF.
661. INGREDIENTS.—10 lbs. of lean beef, 1 lb. of treacle, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.
661. INGREDIENTS.—10 lbs. of lean beef, 1 lb. of molasses, 1 oz. of saltpeter, 1 lb. of regular salt.
Mode.—Rub the beef well with the treacle, and let it remain for 3 days, turning and rubbing it often; then wipe it, pound the salt and saltpetre very fine, rub these well in, and turn it every day for 10 days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth, and press it under a large weight; have it smoked, and turn it upside down every day. Boil it, and, on taking it out of the pot, put a heavy weight on it to press it.
Method.—Thoroughly rub the beef with the molasses, and let it sit for 3 days, turning and rubbing it frequently; then wipe it off, grind the salt and saltpeter finely, rub these in well, and turn it every day for 10 days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth and press it down with a heavy weight; smoke it, and flip it over every day. Boil it, and when you take it out of the pot, place a heavy weight on it to press it.
Time.—17 days.
Time.—17 days.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
BEEF SAUSAGES.
662. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of suet allow 2 lbs. of lean beef; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices.
662. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of suet, use 2 pounds of lean beef; season to taste with salt, pepper, and mixed spices.
Mode.—Clear the suet from skin, and chop that and the beef as finely as possible; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix the whole well together. Make it into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown. Many persons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped ( but this is not necessary when the meat is minced finely.)
Mode.—Remove the fat from the skin, and chop the fat and beef as finely as you can; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix everything together thoroughly. Shape it into flat cakes and fry until nice and brown. Many people pound the meat in a mortar after chopping it (but this isn't necessary if the meat is minced finely).
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, 1s. 6d.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, £0.075.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BEEF-STEAK, Rolled, Roasted, and Stuffed.
Stuffed Rolled Roast Beef Steak.
663. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump-steak, forcemeat No. 417, pepper and salt to taste, clarified butter.
663. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of rump steak, forcemeat No. 417, salt and pepper to taste, clarified butter.
Mode.—Have the steaks cut rather thick from a well-hung rump of beef, and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417; spread it over half of the steak; roll it up, bind and skewer it firmly, that the forcemeat may not escape, and roast it before a nice clear fire for about 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer, should the roll be very large and thick. Keep it constantly basted with butter, and serve with brown gravy, some of which must be poured round the steak, and the remainder sent to table in a tureen.
Mode.—Cut the steaks fairly thick from a well-aged rump of beef, and season them with pepper and salt. Prepare a meat mixture using recipe No. 417; spread it over half of the steak; roll it up, tie it securely, and skewer it tightly so the filling doesn’t leak out. Roast it in front of a good clear fire for about 1-1/2 hours, or longer if the roll is very large and thick. Keep it regularly basted with butter, and serve it with brown gravy, some of which should be poured around the steak, and the rest served in a tureen.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, $0.05 per lb.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable all the year, but best in winter.
Good year-round, but best in the winter.
SLICED AND BROILED BEEF—a Pretty Dish (Cold Meat Cookery).
SLICED AND BROILED BEEF—a Beautiful Dish (Cold Meat Cooking).
664. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 potatoes, a thin batter, pepper and salt to taste.
664. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 potatoes, a thin batter, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Pare the potatoes as you would peel an apple; fry the parings in a thin batter seasoned with salt and pepper, until they are of a light brown colour, and place them on a dish over some slices of beef, which should be nicely seasoned and broiled.
Method.—Peel the potatoes like you would an apple; fry the peels in a light batter seasoned with salt and pepper until they turn a light brown color, and serve them on a plate over some slices of beef that should be well-seasoned and grilled.
Time.—5 minutes to broil the meat.
Time.—5 minutes to broil the meat.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
SPICED BEEF (to Serve Cold).
COLD SPICED BEEF.
665. INGREDIENTS.—14 lbs. of the thick flank or rump of beef, 1/2 lb. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/4 lb. of pounded allspice, 1 lb. of common salt.
665. INGREDIENTS.—14 lbs. of thick flank or rump beef, 1/2 lb. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of saltpeter, 1/4 lb. of ground allspice, 1 lb. of table salt.
Mode.—Rub the sugar well into the beef, and let it lay for 12 hours; then rub the saltpetre and allspice, both of which should be pounded, over the meat, and let it remain for another 12 hours; then rub in the salt. Turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight, soak it for a few hours in water, dry with a cloth, cover with a coarse paste, put a little water at the bottom of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. If it is not covered with a paste, be careful to put the beef into a deep vessel, and cover with a plate, or it will be too crisp. During the time the meat is in the oven it should be turned once or twice.
Method.—Rub the sugar into the beef really well and let it sit for 12 hours; then rub the saltpeter and allspice, which should both be ground, over the meat, and let it sit for another 12 hours; then rub in the salt. Turn it daily in the liquid for two weeks, soak it for a few hours in water, dry it with a cloth, cover it with a coarse paste, add a little water at the bottom of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. If it isn’t covered with a paste, make sure to put the beef in a deep dish and cover it with a plate, or it will get too crispy. While the meat is in the oven, turn it once or twice.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Time: 4 hours. Average cost: 7d per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate any time.
BAKING MEAT.—Baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat, rendering it less savoury and less agreeable than meat which has been roasted. "Those who have travelled in Germany and France," writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular scientific authors, "must have repeatedly marvelled at the singular uniformity in the flavour, or want of flavour, of the various 'roasts' served up at the table-d'hôte." The general explanation is, that the German and French meat is greatly inferior in quality to that of England and Holland, owing to the inferiority of pasturage; and doubtless this is one cause, but it is not the chief cause. The meat is inferior, but the cooking is mainly at fault. The meat is scarcely ever roasted, because there is no coal, and firewood is expensive. The meat is therefore baked; and the consequence of this baking is, that no meat is eatable or eaten, with its own gravy, but is always accompanied by some sauce more or less piquant. The Germans generally believe that in England we eat our beef and mutton almost raw; they shudder at our gravy, as if it were so much blood.
BAKING MEAT.—Baking has some unclear effect on meat, making it less tasty and less enjoyable than roasted meat. “Those who have traveled in Germany and France,” writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular science authors, “must have often marveled at the strange consistency in the flavor, or lack of flavor, of the various 'roasts' served at the table-d'hôte.” The common explanation is that the meat in Germany and France is much lower in quality compared to that of England and Holland, due to poorer grazing. While this is certainly one reason, it's not the main reason. The meat is lower quality, but the cooking is mostly to blame. The meat is hardly ever roasted because there's no coal, and firewood is expensive. So, the meat is basically baked; and because of this baking, no meat is served or eaten with its own gravy; it's always accompanied by some sort of sauce that's more or less tangy. The Germans generally think that in England we eat our beef and mutton almost raw; they are horrified by our gravy, as if it were pure blood.
STEWED BEEF or RUMP STEAK (an Entree).
STEWED BEEF or RUMP STEAK (an Entrée).
666. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of beef or rump steak, 3 onions, 2 turnips, 3 carrots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 do. of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of flour.
666. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of beef or rump steak, 3 onions, 2 turnips, 3 carrots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 1 tablespoon of ketchup, 1 tablespoon of flour.
Mode.—Have the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean; divide them into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter a nice brown on both sides. Cleanse and pare the vegetables, cut the onions and carrots into thin slices, and the turnips into dice, and fry these in the same fat that the steaks were done in. Put all into a saucepan, add 1/2 pint of water, or rather more should it be necessary, and simmer very gently for 2-1/2 or 3 hours; when nearly done, skim well, add salt, pepper, and ketchup in the above proportions, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour mixed with 2 of cold water. Let it boil up for a minute or two after the thickening is added, and serve. When a vegetable-scoop is at hand, use it to cut the vegetables in fanciful shapes, and tomato, Harvey's sauce, or walnut-liquor may be used to flavour the gravy. It is less rich if stewed the previous day, so that the fat may be taken off when cold; when wanted for table, it will merely require warming through.
Mode.—Cut the steaks to a decent thickness and keep them fairly lean; chop them into manageable pieces, and fry them in butter until they're nicely browned on both sides. Clean and peel the vegetables, slice the onions and carrots thinly, and dice the turnips, then fry these in the same fat used for the steaks. Transfer everything to a saucepan, add 1/2 pint of water (or a bit more if needed), and simmer very gently for 2-1/2 to 3 hours; when it's almost done, skim off any excess fat, then add salt, pepper, and ketchup in the amounts mentioned above, and thicken with a tablespoon of flour mixed with 2 tablespoons of cold water. Bring it to a boil for a minute or two after adding the thickener, and serve. If you have a vegetable cutter, you can shape the vegetables in fun designs, and you can use tomato sauce, Harvey's sauce, or walnut liquor to add flavor to the gravy. It’s less rich if stewed the day before so the fat can be removed when it’s cold; when it’s time to serve, just warm it up.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, £0.01 per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
STEWED BEEF AND CELERY SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).
STEWED BEEF AND CELERY SAUCE (Cold Meat Cooking).
667. INGREDIENTS.—3 roots of celery, 1 pint of gravy, No. 436, 2 onions sliced, 2 lbs. of cold roast or boiled beef.
667. INGREDIENTS.—3 celery roots, 1 pint of gravy, No. 436, 2 sliced onions, 2 lbs. of cold roast or boiled beef.
Mode.—Cut the celery into 2-inch pieces, put them in a stew-pan, with the gravy and onions, simmer gently until the celery is tender, when add the beef cut into rather thick pieces; stew gently for 10 minutes, and serve with fried potatoes.
Mode.—Cut the celery into 2-inch pieces, put them in a saucepan with the gravy and onions, and simmer gently until the celery is tender. Then, add the beef cut into fairly thick pieces; stew gently for 10 minutes, and serve with fried potatoes.
Time.—From 20 to 25 minutes to stew the celery.
Time.—Stew the celery for 20 to 25 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Seasonable from September to January.
In season from September to January.
STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).
STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).
668. INGREDIENTS.—A few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 glass of port wine, a little flour to thicken, 1 or 2 dozen oysters, rather more than 1/2 pint of water.
668. INGREDIENTS.—A few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 oz. of butter, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 glass of port wine, a little flour to thicken, 1 or 2 dozen oysters, and just over 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Cut the steaks rather thick, from cold sirloin or ribs of beef; brown them lightly in a stewpan, with the butter and a little water; add 1/2 pint of water, the onion, pepper, and salt, and cover the stewpan closely, and let it simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; then mix about a teaspoonful of flour smoothly with a little of the liquor; add the port wine and oysters, their liquor having been previously strained and put into the stewpan; stir till the oysters plump, and serve. It should not boil after the oysters are added, or they will harden.
Mode.—Cut the steaks fairly thick from cold sirloin or beef ribs; lightly brown them in a saucepan with butter and a bit of water. Add 1/2 pint of water, the onion, pepper, and salt, then cover the saucepan tightly and let it simmer gently for 30 minutes. Next, mix about a teaspoon of flour smoothly with a little of the liquid. Add the port wine and oysters, making sure to strain their liquid and put it into the saucepan. Stir until the oysters plump up, and then serve. It shouldn’t boil after you add the oysters, or they will toughen.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 4d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 1s. 4d.
Seasonable from September to April.
Available from September to April.
STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF.
669. INGREDIENTS.—7 lbs. of a brisket of beef, vinegar and salt, 6 carrots, 6 turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 whole allspice pounded, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup; stock, or water.
669. INGREDIENTS.—7 lbs. of brisket beef, vinegar and salt, 6 carrots, 6 turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of ground mace, 2 whole allspice berries, a thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoons of ketchup; stock or water.
Mode.—About an hour before dressing it, rub the meat over with vinegar and salt; put it into a stewpan, with sufficient stock to cover it (when this is not at hand, water may be substituted for it), and be particular that the stewpan is not much larger than the meat. Skim well, and when it has simmered very gently for 1 hour, put in the vegetables, and continue simmering till the meat is perfectly tender. Draw out the bones, dish the meat, and garnish either with tufts of cauliflower or braised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much gravy as required, with a little butter and flour; add spices and ketchup in the above proportion, give one boil, pour some of it over the meat, and the remainder send in a tureen.
Mode.—About an hour before cooking, rub the meat with vinegar and salt; place it in a stewpot, adding enough stock to cover it (if stock isn’t available, you can use water instead), and make sure the stewpot is not much larger than the meat. Skim it well, and when it has simmered gently for 1 hour, add the vegetables, and continue simmering until the meat is fully tender. Remove the bones, serve the meat, and garnish with either clusters of cauliflower or braised cabbage cut into quarters. Thicken as much gravy as needed with a bit of butter and flour; add spices and ketchup in the aforementioned proportion, bring it to a boil, pour some over the meat, and serve the rest in a tureen.
Time.—rather more than 3 hours. Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Time.—a little over 3 hours. Average cost, 7d. per pound.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Note.—The remainder of the liquor in which the beef was boiled may be served as a soup, or it may be sent to table with the meat in a tureen.
Note.—The leftover liquid from boiling the beef can be served as a soup, or it can be presented at the table with the meat in a serving dish.
STEWED RUMP OF BEEF.
670. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 rump of beef, sufficient stock to cover it (No. 105), 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1 large bunch of savoury herbs, 2 onions, 12 cloves, pepper and salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine.
670. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 rump of beef, enough stock to cover it (No. 105), 4 tablespoons of vinegar, 2 tablespoons of ketchup, 1 large bunch of savory herbs, 2 onions, 12 cloves, pepper and salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine.
Mode.—Cut out the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne (this must be sparingly used), and bind and tie it firmly up with tape; put it into a stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add vinegar, ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the above proportion, and simmer very gently for 4 or 5 hours, or until the meat is perfectly tender, which may be ascertained by piercing it with a thin skewer. When done, remove the tape, lay it into a deep dish, which keep hot; strain and skim the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add a glass of port wine and any flavouring to make the gravy rich and palatable; let it boil up, pour over the meat, and serve. This dish may be very much enriched by garnishing with forcemeat balls, or filling up the space whence the bone is taken with a good forcemeat; sliced carrots, turnips, and onions boiled with the meat, are also a great improvement, and, where expense is not objected to, it may be glazed. This, however, is not necessary where a good gravy is poured round and over the meat.
Mode.—Remove the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne (use this sparingly), and tightly bind it with tape. Place it in a stewpan with enough stock to cover it, then add vinegar, ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the amounts mentioned above. Let it simmer very gently for 4 to 5 hours, or until the meat is perfectly tender, which you can check by piercing it with a thin skewer. Once it's done, take off the tape and place the meat in a deep dish to keep warm. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, then add a glass of port wine and any flavoring to make it rich and tasty. Let it come to a boil, pour it over the meat, and serve. This dish can be enhanced by garnishing with forcemeat balls or filling the space where the bone was removed with good forcemeat. Adding sliced carrots, turnips, and onions boiled with the meat is also a nice touch, and if cost isn’t an issue, it can be glazed. However, glazing isn't necessary if you have a good gravy poured around and over the meat.
Time.—1/2 rump stewed gently from 4 to 5 hours.
Time.—1/2 rump cooked slowly for 4 to 5 hours.
Average cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons.
Average cost, 10p. per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—A stock or gravy in which to boil the meat, may be made of the bone and trimmings, by boiling them with water, and adding carrots, onions, turnips, and a bunch of sweet herbs. To make this dish richer and more savoury, half-roast the rump, and afterwards stew it in strong stock and a little Madeira. This is an expensive method, and is not, after all, much better than a plainer-dressed joint.
Note.—You can make a stock or gravy to boil the meat by using the bone and trimmings, boiling them with water, and adding carrots, onions, turnips, and a bunch of herbs. To make this dish richer and more flavorful, partially roast the rump first, then stew it in strong stock with a splash of Madeira. This is a pricey method, and honestly, it doesn’t turn out much better than a simpler cooked joint.
THE BARON OF BEEF.—This noble joint, which consisted of two sirloins not cut asunder, was a favourite dish of our ancestors. It is rarely seen nowadays; indeed, it seems out of place on a modern table, as it requires the grim boar's head and Christmas pie as supporters. Sir Walter Scott has described a feast at which the baron of beef would have appeared to great advantage. We will quote a few lines to remind us of those days when "England was merry England," and when hospitality was thought to be the highest virtue.
THE BARON OF BEEF.—This impressive cut of meat, which consisted of two sirloins left whole, was a favorite dish from our ancestors. It's rarely seen today; in fact, it feels out of place on a modern table since it typically needs the intimidating boar's head and Christmas pie as accompaniments. Sir Walter Scott described a feast where the baron of beef would have stood out beautifully. We'll quote a few lines to remind us of those times when "England was merry England," and hospitality was regarded as the greatest virtue.
"The fire, with well-dried logs supplied,
Went roaring up the chimney wide;
The huge hall-table's oaken face,
Scrubb'd till it shone, the day to grace,
Bore then, upon its massive board,
No mark to part the squire and lord.
Then was brought in the lusty brawn,
By old blue-coated serving-man;
Then the grim boar's head frown'd on high,
Crested with bays and rosemary.
Well can the green-garb'd ranger tell
How, when, and where the monster fell;
What dogs before his death he tore,
And all the baiting of the boar;
While round the merry wassel bowl,
Garnish'd with ribbons, blithe did trowl.
There the huge sirloin reek'd; hard by
Plum-porridge stood, and Christmas pie;
Nor fail'd old Scotland to produce,
At such high tide, her savoury goose."
"The fire, fueled by well-dried logs,
Roared up the wide chimney;
The large oak table in the hall,
Scrubbed until it shone for the day,
Had no sign to separate the squire from the lord.
Then the hearty brawn was brought in,
By an old blue-coated servant;
Next the grim boar's head loomed above,
Adorned with bays and rosemary.
The green-garbed ranger can tell
How, when, and where the beast fell;
What dogs he tore before his death,
And all the hunting of the boar;
While around the cheerful wassail bowl,
Decorated with ribbons, everyone drank joyfully.
There the huge sirloin steamed; nearby
Stood plum porridge and Christmas pie;
Nor did old Scotland fail to provide,
At such a grand time, her savory goose."
When a lord's son came of age, in the olden time, the baron of beef was too small a joint, by many degrees, to satisfy the retainers who would flock to the hall; a whole ox was therefore generally roasted over a fire built up of huge logs. We may here mention, that an ox was roasted entire on the frozen Thames, in the early part of the present century.
When a lord's son turned 18 in the past, a small roast beef just wouldn't be enough to feed all the retainers who would gather in the hall; so usually, a whole ox was roasted over a fire made from large logs. It's worth noting that an ox was roasted whole on the frozen Thames in the early part of this century.
STEWED SHIN OF BEEF.
671. INGREDIENTS.—A shin of beef, 1 head of celery, 1 onion, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button onions, 2 turnips, thickening of butter and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine; pepper and salt to taste.
671. INGREDIENTS.—A beef shin, 1 head of celery, 1 onion, a bunch of savory herbs, 1/2 teaspoon of allspice, 1/2 teaspoon of whole black pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button onions, 2 turnips, a thickener made of butter and flour, 3 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoons of port wine; salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Have the bone sawn into 4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot water, bring it to a boil, and remove any scum that may rise to the surface. Put in the celery, onion, herbs, spice, and seasoning, and simmer very gently until the meat is tender. Peel the vegetables, cut them into any shape fancy may dictate, and boil them with the onions until tender; lift out the beef, put it on a dish, which keep hot, and thicken with butter and flour as much of the liquor as will be wanted for gravy; keep stirring till it boils, then strain and skim. Put the gravy back in the stewpan, add the seasoning, port wine, and ketchup, give one boil, and pour it over the beef; garnish with the boiled carrots, turnips, and onions.
Mode.—Cut the bone into 4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot water, bring it to a boil, and remove any foam that forms on the surface. Add the celery, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning, and let it simmer gently until the meat is tender. Peel the vegetables, cut them into any shapes you like, and boil them with the onions until they’re tender; take out the beef, place it on a warm dish, and thicken as much of the liquid as you need for gravy with butter and flour; keep stirring until it boils, then strain and skim. Return the gravy to the pot, add the seasoning, port wine, and ketchup, bring it to a boil again, and pour it over the beef; garnish with the boiled carrots, turnips, and onions.
Time.—The meat to be stewed about 4 hours. Average cost, 4d. per lb. with bone.
Time.—The meat should be stewed for about 4 hours. Average cost, 4d. per lb. with bone.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Homely but Savoury Dish).
TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Cozy but Tasty Dish).
672. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 1 sheep's kidney, pepper and salt to taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
672. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lbs. of rump steak, 1 sheep kidney, pepper and salt to taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 4 tablespoons of flour, 1/2 teaspoon of salt.
Mode.—Cut up the steak and kidney into convenient-sized pieces, and put them into a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper; mix the flour with a small quantity of milk at first, to prevent its being lumpy; add the remainder, and the 3 eggs, which should be well beaten; put in the salt, stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and pour it over the steak. Place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately, and bake for 1-1/2 hour.
Mode.—Chop the steak and kidney into bite-sized pieces and place them in a pie dish, seasoning generously with salt and pepper; mix the flour with a small amount of milk first to avoid lumps; then add the rest of the milk and the 3 eggs, which should be well beaten; include the salt, stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and pour it over the steak. Immediately place it in a moderately hot oven and bake for 1-1/2 hours.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Duration: 1.5 hours. Average cost: £1.45.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable at any time.
Note.—The remains of cold beef, rather underdone, may be substituted for the steak, and, when liked, the smallest possible quantity of minced onion or shalot may be added.
Note.—Leftover cold beef, slightly undercooked, can be used instead of steak, and if desired, a tiny amount of minced onion or shallot can be added.
BOILED TONGUE.
673. INGREDIENTS.—1 tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water.
673. INGREDIENTS.—1 tongue, a bunch of savory herbs, water.
Mode.—In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried or pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its being young and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least for 12 hours previous to cooking it; if, however, it is fresh from the pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in sock. Put the tongue in a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savoury herbs; let it gradually come to a boil, skim well and simmer very gently until tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts of cauliflowers or Brussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is frequently sent to table with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is, by many persons, preferred. If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it down to a piece of board by sticking a fork through the root, and another through the top, to straighten it. When cold, glaze it, and put a paper ruche round the root, and garnish with tufts of parsley.
Mode.—When choosing a tongue, check how long it has been dried or pickled, and go for one with smooth skin, which means it's young and tender. If it's dried and a bit tough, soak it for at least 12 hours before cooking; if it’s fresh from the pickle, 2 or 3 hours in the soak will be enough. Place the tongue in a pot with plenty of cold water and a bunch of flavorful herbs; bring it to a boil gradually, skim off any impurities, and let it simmer very gently until tender. Remove the skin, decorate with small bunches of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is often served with boiled poultry instead of ham, and many people prefer it. If serving it cold, peel it, secure it to a cutting board with a fork through the root and another through the top to keep it straight. Once it's cold, glaze it, and wrap a paper frill around the root, garnishing with parsley.
Time.—A large smoked tongue, 4 to 4-1/2 hours; a small one, 2-1/2 to 3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 3-1/2 hours; a small one, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Time.—A large smoked tongue takes 4 to 4-1/2 hours; a small one takes 2-1/2 to 3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue takes 3 to 3-1/2 hours; a small one takes 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Average cost, for a moderate sized tongue, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, for a moderately sized tongue, 3s. 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Available year-round.
TO CURE TONGUES.
I.
674. INGREDIENTS.—For a tongue of 7 lbs., 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 oz. of black pepper, 4 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of juniper berries, 6 oz. of salt.
674. INGREDIENTS.—For a 7 lb. tongue, 1 oz. of saltpeter, ½ oz. of black pepper, 4 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of juniper berries, 6 oz. of salt.
Mode.—Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, and let it remain in the pickle for 10 days or a fortnight; then drain it, tie it up in brown paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a wood fire; or it may be boiled out of this pickle.
Method.—Massage the ingredients thoroughly into the tongue and let it soak in the brine for 10 days to two weeks; then drain it, wrap it in brown paper, and smoke it over a wood fire for about 20 days; or you can boil it to remove it from the brine.
Time.—From 10 to 14 days to remain in the pickle; to be smoked 24 days.
Time.—Soak in the pickle for 10 to 14 days; then smoke for 24 days.
Average cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, £2.50.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—If not wanted immediately, the tongue will keep 3 or 4 weeks without being too salt; then it must not be rubbed, but only turned in the pickle.
Note.—If you don't need it right away, the tongue can be stored for 3 or 4 weeks without becoming too salty; just make sure not to rub it, but only turn it in the brine.
II.
675. INGREDIENTS.—9 lbs. of salt, 8 oz. of sugar, 9 oz. of powdered saltpetre.
675. INGREDIENTS.—9 lbs. of salt, 8 oz. of sugar, 9 oz. of powdered saltpeter.
Mode.—Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep them in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day. Drain them from the pickle, cover with brown paper, and have them smoked for about 3 weeks.
Mode.—Thoroughly mix the ingredients into the tongues and let them sit in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day. Drain them from the brine, cover with brown paper, and smoke them for about 3 weeks.
Time.—The tongues to remain in pickle 2 months; to be smoked 3 weeks.
Time.—The tongues should stay in brine for 2 months; then smoke them for 3 weeks.
Sufficient.—The above quantity of brine sufficient for 12 tongues, of 5 lbs. each.
Sufficient.—The amount of brine mentioned is enough for 12 tongues, weighing 5 lbs. each.
Seasonable at any time.
Good for any season.
[Illustration: BEEF TONGUE.]
[Illustration: Beef Tongue.]
THE TONGUES OF ANIMALS.—The tongue, whether in the ox or in man, is the seat of the sense of taste. This sense warns the animal against swallowing deleterious substances. Dr. Carpenter says, that, among the lower animals, the instinctive perceptions connected with this sense, are much more remarkable than our own; thus, an omnivorous monkey will seldom touch fruits of a poisonous character, although their taste may be agreeable. However this may be, man's instinct has decided that ox-tongue is better than horse-tongue; nevertheless, the latter is frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former. The horse's tongue may be readily distinguished by a spoon-like expansion at its end.
THE TONGUES OF ANIMALS.—The tongue, whether in an ox or in a human, is the center of the sense of taste. This sense helps warn the animal against swallowing harmful substances. Dr. Carpenter notes that, among lower animals, the instinctive perceptions linked to this sense are much more impressive than our own; for example, an omnivorous monkey will rarely eat fruits that are poisonous, even if they taste good. Regardless, our instinct has determined that ox tongue is better than horse tongue; however, dishonest sellers often replace the former with the latter. You can easily identify a horse's tongue by its spoon-like tip.
TO PICKLE AND DRESS A TONGUE TO EAT COLD.
676. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of salt, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse sugar; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste; butter, common crust of flour and water.
676. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. salt, 2 oz. bay salt, 1 oz. saltpeter, 3 oz. coarse sugar; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste; butter, standard crust of flour and water.
Mode.—Lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle, turn it every day, and be particular that the spices are well pounded; put it into a small pan just large enough to hold it, place some pieces of butter on it, and cover with a common crust. Bake in a slow oven until so tender that a straw would penetrate it; take off the skin, fasten it down to a piece of board by running a fork through the root and another through the tip, at the same time straightening it and putting it into shape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round the root, which is generally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of parsley.
Mode.—Soak the tongue in the pickle for two weeks, turning it every day, and make sure the spices are finely ground; place it in a small pan just big enough to fit it, add some pieces of butter on top, and cover it with a regular crust. Bake in a low oven until it's so tender that a straw can easily go through it; remove the skin, secure it to a board by piercing the root with a fork and another through the tip, while straightening and shaping it. Once it's cool, glaze it, wrap a paper frill around the root, which usually looks unappealing, and garnish it with sprigs of parsley.
Time.—From 3 or 4 hours in a slow oven, according to size.
Time.—From 3 to 4 hours in a low oven, depending on the size.
Average cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, £2.50.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
TO DRESS TRIPE.
677. INGREDIENTS.—Tripe, onion sauce, No. 484, milk and water.
677. INGREDIENTS.—Tripe, onion sauce, No. 484, milk, and water.
Mode.—Ascertain that the tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleaned and dressed. Cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal proportions of milk and water for 3/4 hour. Should the tripe be entirely undressed, more than double that time should be allowed for it. Have ready some onion sauce made by recipe No. 4S4, dish the tripe, smother it with the sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.
Mode.—Make sure the tripe is very fresh, and clean and prepare it. Trim off the thickest fat, and boil it in equal parts of milk and water for 45 minutes. If the tripe is completely unprepared, you should allow more than double that time. Prepare some onion sauce using recipe No. 484, serve the tripe smothered in the sauce, and bring the rest to the table in a tureen.
Time.—1 hour: for undressed tripe, from 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Time.—1 hour: for raw tripe, from 2.5 to 3 hours.
Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable anytime.
Note.—Tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways: it may be cut in pieces and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with mushrooms, or cut into collops, sprinkled with minced onion and savoury herbs, and fried a nice brown in clarified butter.
Note.—Tripe can be prepared in several ways: it can be cut into pieces and fried in batter, simmered in gravy with mushrooms, or sliced into pieces, topped with minced onion and flavorful herbs, and fried until golden brown in clarified butter.
BEEF CARVING.
AITCHBONE OF BEEF.
A boiled aitch-bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve, as will be seen on reference to the accompanying engraving. By following with the knife the direction of the line from 1 to 2, nice slices will be easily cut. It may be necessary, as in a round of beef, to cut a thick slice off the outside before commencing to serve.
A boiled beef aitch bone isn’t hard to carve, as you can see in the accompanying image. By guiding the knife along the line from 1 to 2, you can easily cut nice slices. Just like with a round of beef, you might need to cut a thick slice off the outside before you start serving.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
BRISKET OF BEEF.
There is but little description necessary to add, to show the carving of a boiled brisket of beef, beyond the engraving here inserted. The only point to be observed is, that the joint should be cut evenly and firmly quite across the bones, so that, on its reappearance at table, it should not have a jagged and untidy look.
There’s not much more to add to explain how to carve a boiled brisket of beef, aside from the illustration included here. The only thing to note is that the meat should be sliced evenly and firmly across the bones, so that when it’s served at the table, it looks neat and tidy, without any jagged edges.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
RIBS OF BEEF.
This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or undercut. As explained in the recipes, the end piece is often cut off, salted and boiled. The mode of carving is similar to that of the sirloin, viz., in the direction of the dotted line from 1 to 2. This joint will be the more easily cut if the plan be pursued which is suggested in carving the sirloin; namely, the inserting of the knife immediately between the bone and the moat, before commencing to cut it into slices. All joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thin slices. Horseradish, finely scraped, may be served as a garnish; but horseradish sauce is preferable for eating with the beef.
This dish is similar to sirloin, but it doesn't have a fillet or undercut. As mentioned in the recipes, the end piece is often sliced off, salted, and boiled. The way to carve it is similar to sirloin, following the dotted line from 1 to 2. This cut will be easier to slice if you follow the method suggested for carving sirloin, which is to insert the knife right between the bone and the joint before you start slicing. All cuts of roast beef should be sliced evenly and thinly. Finely grated horseradish can be served as a garnish, but horseradish sauce is better for pairing with the beef.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it to come to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, the undercut, uppermost. The reverse way, as shown in the cut, is that most usually adopted. Still the undercut is best eaten when hot; consequently, the carver himself may raise the joint, and cut some slices from the under side, in the direction of from 1 to 2, as the fillet is very much preferred by some eaters. The upper part of the sirloin should be cut in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and care should be taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices. It will be found a great assistance, in carving this joint well, if the knife be first inserted just above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply along between the bone and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone in the same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come away more readily.
This dish is served differently at various tables; some people prefer it to come to the table with the fillet, or what’s usually called the undercut, on top. Most often, it’s served the other way, as shown in the cut. Still, the undercut is best enjoyed when hot; therefore, the carver can lift the joint and slice some pieces from the underside, from 1 to 2, since some diners really prefer the fillet. The upper part of the sirloin should be cut following the line from 5 to 6, and it’s important to carve it evenly and into thin slices. It’s really helpful for carving this joint well if the knife is first inserted just above the bone at the bottom and run sharply along between the bone and meat, and also to separate the meat from the bone in the same way at the side of the joint. The slices will then come off more easily.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Some carvers cut the upper side of the sirloin across, as shown by the line from 3 to 4; but this is a wasteful plan, and one not to be recommended. With the sirloin, very finely-scraped horseradish is usually served, and a little given, when liked, to each guest. Horseradish sauce is preferable, however, for serving on the plate, although the scraped horseradish may still be used as a garnish.
Some carvers slice the top of the sirloin across, as indicated by the line from 3 to 4; however, this is a wasteful approach and not recommended. When serving sirloin, very finely grated horseradish is typically provided, with a bit given to each guest if they prefer it. Horseradish sauce is better for serving on the plate, though the grated horseradish can still be used as a garnish.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
A ROUND OF BEEF.
A round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef, and to manage it properly, a thin-bladed and very sharp knife is necessary. Off the outside of the joint, at its top, a thick slice should first be cut, so as to leave the surface smooth; then thin and even slices should be cleverly carved in the direction of the line 1 to 2; and with each slice of the lean a delicate morsel of the fat should be served.
A round of beef isn't as easy to carve as many other cuts, and you need a thin, very sharp knife to do it right. Start by cutting a thick slice off the top of the joint to create a smooth surface. Then, carefully slice thin, even pieces from the line 1 to 2, making sure to include a small piece of fat with each slice of lean meat.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
BEEF TONGUE.
Passing the knife down in the direction of from 1 to 2, a not too thin slice should be helped; and the carving of a tongue may be continued in this way until the best portions of the upper side are served. The fat which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by turning the tongue, and cutting in the direction of from 3 to 4.
Passing the knife from 1 to 2, cut a slice that isn’t too thin; continue carving the tongue this way until you’ve served the best pieces from the upper side. You can serve the fat around the root of the tongue by turning it and slicing from 3 to 4.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XIV.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB.
678. OF ALL WILD or DOMESTICATED ANIMALS, the sheep is, without exception, the most useful to man as a food, and the most necessary to his health and comfort; for it not only supplies him with the lightest and most nutritious of meats, but, in the absence of the cow, its udder yields him milk, cream, and a sound though inferior cheese; while from its fat he obtains light, and from its fleece broadcloth, kerseymere, blankets, gloves, and hose. Its bones when burnt make an animal charcoal—ivory black—to polish his boots, and when powdered, a manure for the cultivation of his wheat; the skin, either split or whole, is made into a mat for his carriage, a housing for his horse, or a lining for his hat, and many other useful purposes besides, being extensively employed in the manufacture of parchment; and finally, when oppressed by care and sorrow, the harmonious strains that carry such soothing contentment to the heart, are elicited from the musical strings, prepared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep.
678. OF ALL WILD or DOMESTICATED ANIMALS, the sheep is, without exception, the most useful to humans for food, and the most essential for their health and comfort; it not only provides the lightest and most nutritious meat, but, when cows are not available, its udder gives milk, cream, and a decent, though lesser, cheese; from its fat, he gets light, and from its fleece, broadcloth, kerseymere, blankets, gloves, and socks. Its bones, when burned, create an animal charcoal—ivory black—for polishing boots, and when ground, serve as fertilizer for growing wheat; the skin, whether split or whole, can be turned into a mat for transporting goods, a covering for horses, or a lining for hats, along with many other practical uses, including being widely used in making parchment; and finally, when weighed down by worry and sadness, the harmonious melodies that bring soothing comfort to the heart are produced from the musical strings, made almost exclusively from sheep intestines.
679. THIS VALUABLE ANIMAL, of which England is estimated to maintain an average stock of 32,000,000, belongs to the class already indicated under the ox,—the Mammalia; to the order of Rumenantia, or cud-chewing animal; to the tribe of Capridae, or horned quadrupeds; and the genus Ovis, or the "sheep." The sheep may be either with or without horns; when present, however, they have always this peculiarity, that they spring from a triangular base, are spiral in form, and lateral, at the side of the head, in situation. The fleece of the sheep is of two sorts, either short and harsh, or soft and woolly; the wool always preponderating in an exact ratio to the care, attention, and amount of domestication bestowed on the animal. The generic peculiarities of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of the horns, always larger in the male when present, but absent in the most cultivated species; having sinuses at the base of all the toes of the four feet, with two rudimentary hoofs on the fore legs, two inguinal teats to the udder, with a short tail in the wild breed, but of varying length in the domesticated; have no incisor teeth in the upper jaw, but in their place a hard elastic cushion along the margin of the gum, on which the animal nips and breaks the herbage on which it feeds; in the lower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on each side of both jaws, making in all 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two coats, one to keep the animal warm, the other to carry off the water without wetting the skin. The first is of wool, the weight and fineness of which depend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock; the other of hair, that pierces the wool and overlaps it, and is in excess in exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattention with which the animal is treated.
679. THIS VALUABLE ANIMAL, of which England is estimated to have an average population of 32,000,000, belongs to the category already mentioned under the ox,—the Mammalia; to the order of Ruminantia, or cud-chewing animals; to the tribe of Capridae, or horned quadrupeds; and the genus Ovis, or "sheep." Sheep can have either horns or none; when they do have horns, they always have the unique characteristic of growing from a triangular base, spiraling in shape, and positioned laterally on the sides of the head. The fleece of the sheep comes in two types, either short and coarse, or soft and woolly; the wool tends to be denser in proportion to the care, attention, and level of domestication given to the animal. The key features of the sheep include the triangular and spiral shape of the horns, which are typically larger in males when present, but absent in the most domesticated breeds; they have sinuses at the base of all four toes, two rudimentary hoofs on the front legs, two teats in the udder, and a short tail in wild breeds, while the length varies in domesticated ones; they lack incisors in the upper jaw, replaced by a hard elastic cushion along the gum line, which the animal uses to nip and break the grass it eats; the lower jaw has eight incisors and six molars on each side of both jaws, totaling 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two layers, one to keep the animal warm and the other to shed water without wetting the skin. The first layer is made of wool, with its weight and fineness depending on the quality of the pasture and the care given to the flock; the second layer is hair, which penetrates the wool and overlaps it, increasing in amount in direct relation to poor care and neglect.
680. THE GREAT OBJECT OF THE GRAZIER is to procure an animal that will yield the greatest pecuniary return in the shortest time; or, in other words, soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and fine fleece. All sheep will not do this alike; some, like men, are so restless and irritable, that no system of feeding, however good, will develop their frames or make them fat. The system adopted by the breeder to obtain a valuable animal for the butcher, is to enlarge the capacity and functions of the digestive organs, and reduce those of the head and chest, or the mental and respiratory organs. In the first place, the mind should be tranquillized, and those spaces that can never produce animal fibre curtailed, and greater room afforded, as in the abdomen, for those that can. And as nothing militates against the fattening process so much as restlessness, the chief wish of the grazier is to find a dull, indolent sheep, one who, instead of frisking himself, leaping his wattles, or even condescending to notice the butting gambols of his silly companions, silently fills his paunch with pasture, and then seeking a shady nook, indolently and luxuriously chows his cud with closed eyes and blissful satisfaction, only rising when his delicious repast is ended, to proceed silently and without emotion to repeat the pleasing process of laying in more provender, and then returning to his dreamy siesta to renew the delightful task of rumination. Such animals are said to have a lymphatic temperament, and are of so kindly a nature, that on good pasturage they may be said to grow daily. The Leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contented animal, and the active Orkney, who is half goat in his habits, of the restless and unprofitable. The rich pasture of our midland counties would take years in making the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while one day's fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage would probably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-winded Leicester.
680. THE MAIN GOAL OF THE GRAZIER is to find an animal that will provide the best financial return in the least amount of time; in other words, to quickly turn grass and turnips into quality mutton and fine fleece. Not all sheep are the same in this regard; some, much like people, are so restless and irritable that no amount of good feeding will help them grow or gain weight. The strategy used by the breeder to create a valuable animal for the butcher is to enhance the size and functionality of the digestive organs while reducing those of the head and chest, or the mental and respiratory organs. First and foremost, the sheep's mind should be calm, and areas that cannot produce animal fiber should be minimized, allowing more space, particularly in the abdomen, for those that can. And since nothing interferes with the fattening process quite like restlessness, the grazier's main desire is to find a dull, lazy sheep—one that, instead of jumping around or even bothering with the antics of its silly friends, quietly fills its belly with grass and then finds a shady spot to lazily chew its cud with closed eyes and total satisfaction, only getting up when it's done to quietly repeat the enjoyable process of eating more, before returning to its dreamy nap to continue the satisfying task of rumination. Such animals are described as having a lymphatic temperament and are so gentle by nature that, on good pasture, they seem to grow stronger every day. The Leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic and contented type, while the active Orkney, which has some goat-like habits, exemplifies the restless and unprofitable kind. The rich pastures of our midland counties would take years to make the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while just one day's effort climbing rocks for sparse and rough grazing might likely lead to the death of the pampered and short-winded Leicester.
681. THE MORE REMOVED FROM THE NATURE of the animal is the food on which it lives, the more difficult is the process of assimilation, and the more complex the chain of digestive organs; for it must be evident to all, that the same apparatus that converts flesh into flesh, is hardly calculated to transmute grass into flesh. As the process of digestion in carnivorous animals is extremely simple, these organs are found to be remarkably short, seldom exceeding the length of the animal's body; while, where digestion is more difficult, from the unassimilating nature of the aliment, as in the ruminant order, the alimentary canal, as is the case with the sheep, is twenty-seven times the length of the body. The digestive organ in all ruminant animals consists of four stomachs, or, rather, a capacious pouch, divided by doorways and valves into four compartments, called, in their order of position, the Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. When the sheep nibbles the grass, and is ignorantly supposed to be eating, he is, in fact, only preparing the raw material of his meal, in reality only mowing the pasture, which, as he collects, is swallowed instantly, passing into the first receptacle, the paunch, where it is surrounded by a quantity of warm saliva, in which the herbage undergoes a process of maceration or softening, till the animal having filled this compartment, the contents pass through a valve into the second or smaller bag,—the reticulum, where, having again filled the paunch with a reserve, the sheep lies down and commences that singular process of chewing the cud, or, in other words, masticating the food he has collected. By the operation of a certain set of muscles, a small quantity of this softened food from the reticulum, or second bag, is passed into the mouth, which it now becomes the pleasure of the sheep to grind under his molar teeth into a soft smooth pulp, the operation being further assisted by a flow of saliva, answering the double purpose of increasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting the solvency of the mass. Having completely comminuted and blended this mouthful, it is swallowed a second time; but instead of returning to the paunch or reticulum, it passes through another valve into a side cavity,—the omasum, where, after a maceration in more saliva for some hours, it glides by the same contrivance into the fourth pouch,—the abomasum, an apartment in all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach of animals, and where the process of digestion, begun and carried on in the previous three, is here consummated, and the nutrient principle, by means of the bile, eliminated from the digested aliment. Such is the process of digestion in sheep and oxen.
681. THE FURTHER AWAY the food is from the animal's natural diet, the harder it is for the animal to digest, and the more complicated its digestive system becomes. It's obvious that the same system that turns flesh into flesh is not designed to convert grass into flesh. For carnivorous animals, digestion is very straightforward, and their digestive organs are relatively short, usually not longer than the animal's body. On the other hand, animals like sheep, which have a more complex digestion due to their harder-to-digest food, have a digestive tract that is twenty-seven times the length of their body. In all ruminant animals, the digestive system includes four stomachs, or more accurately, a large pouch divided into four compartments by valves and openings, known as the Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. When a sheep grazes on grass, it's often mistakenly thought that it's eating, but it's really just preparing its meal, merely collecting the grass, which it swallows immediately. This grass goes into the first chamber, the paunch, where it's mixed with warm saliva and begins the process of softening. Once the paunch is full, the contents move through a valve into the second, smaller pouch—the reticulum. After refilling the paunch with a reserve, the sheep lies down and starts the unique process of chewing its cud, or in simpler terms, it masticates the food it has gathered. Certain muscles help bring a small amount of this softened food from the reticulum into its mouth, which the sheep enjoys grinding under its molar teeth into a smooth pulp. Saliva also flows during this process, enhancing the food's flavor and aiding in its breakdown. After thoroughly chewing this mouthful, the sheep swallows it again, but instead of returning to the paunch or reticulum, it goes through another valve into a side cavity—the omasum, where it sits in more saliva for a few hours. Then it moves into the fourth pouch—the abomasum, which functions like a regular stomach. Here, the digestion process that started in the previous three compartments is finalized, and the nutrient content is extracted from the digested food with the help of bile. This is how digestion works in sheep and cattle.
682. NO OTHER ANIMAL, even of the same order, possesses in so remarkable a degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as the Leicestershire sheep; the South Down and Cheviot, the two next breeds in quality, are, in consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal's nature, not equal to it in that respect, though in both the brain and chest are kept subservient to the greater capacity of the organs of digestion. Besides the advantage of increased bulk and finer fleeces, the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of tissue in those parts of the carcase most esteemed as food, or, what are called in the trade "prime joints;" and so far has this been effected, that the comparative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a test of quality in the breed, the butchers in some markets charging twopence a pound more for that portion of the sheep. Indeed, so superior are the hind quarters of mutton now regarded, that very many of the West-end butchers never deal in any other part of the sheep.
682. NO OTHER ANIMAL, even within the same category, transforms pasture into flesh as effectively as the Leicestershire sheep. The South Down and Cheviot breeds, which come next in quality, aren't as good at this because they're more lively by nature, even though both have brains and chests that support their digestion capabilities. In addition to bigger size and better-quality fleeces, breeders aim to increase the amount of meat in the parts of the carcass that are most valued as food, known in the trade as "prime joints." This has led to a situation where the weight difference between the hindquarters and forequarters has become a quality indicator for the breed, with butchers in some markets charging two pence more per pound for that part of the sheep. In fact, the hindquarters of mutton are now so highly regarded that many butchers in the West End only sell that part of the sheep.
683. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE FLESH in various breeds is a well-established fact, not alone in flavour, but also in tenderness; and that the nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences the flavour of the meat, is equally certain, and shown in the estimation in which those flocks are held which have grazed on the thymy heath of Bamstead in Sussex. It is also a well-established truth, that the larger the frame of the animal, the coarser is the meat, and that small bones are both guarantees for the fineness of the breed and the delicacy of the flesh. The sex too has much to do in determining the quality of the meat; in the males, the lean is closer in fibre, deeper in colour, harder in texture, less juicy, and freer from fat, than in the female, and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion; but probably age, and the character of the pasturage on which they are reared, has, more than any other cause, an influence on the quality and tenderness of the meat.
683. THE DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE MEAT among different breeds is a well-known fact, not only in taste but also in tenderness. It's also clear that the type of pasture where the sheep are raised affects the flavor of the meat, as seen in the high regard for flocks that have grazed on the fragrant heath of Bamstead in Sussex. Additionally, it's a well-known fact that the larger the animal, the coarser the meat is, and that small bones are indicators of a finer breed and more delicate flesh. The animal's sex plays a significant role in determining meat quality as well; in males, the meat is denser in texture, darker in color, tougher, less juicy, and lower in fat compared to females, making it harder to digest. However, age and the quality of the pasture where they are raised likely have the most significant impact on the quality and tenderness of the meat.
684. THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES of sheep inhabiting the different regions of the earth have been reduced by Cuvier to three, or at most four, species: the Ovis Amman, or the Argali, the presumed parent stock of all the rest; the Ovis Tragelaphus, the bearded sheep of Africa; the Ovis Musmon, the Musmon of Southern Europe; and the Ovis Montana, the Mouflon of America; though it is believed by many naturalists that this last is so nearly identical with the Indian Argali as to be undeserving a separate place. It is still a controversy to which of these three we are indebted for the many breeds of modern domestication; the Argali, however, by general belief, has been considered as the most probable progenitor of the present varieties.
684. THE MANY TYPES of sheep found in different parts of the world have been categorized by Cuvier into three, or at most four, species: the Ovis Amman, or Argali, which is thought to be the ancestor of all the others; the Ovis Tragelaphus, the bearded sheep from Africa; the Ovis Musmon, the Musmon from Southern Europe; and the Ovis Montana, the Mouflon from America. However, many naturalists believe that the last one is so similar to the Indian Argali that it doesn't deserve its own category. There's still debate about which of these three is the source of the many breeds we have today, but the Argali is generally considered the most likely ancestor of today's varieties.
685. THE EFFECTS PRODUCED BY CHANGE OF CLIMATE, accident, and other causes, must have been great to accomplish so complete a physical alteration as the primitive Argali must have undergone before the Musmon, or Mouflon of Corsica, the immediate progenitor of all our European breeds, assumed his present appearance. The Argali is about a fifth larger in size than the ordinary English sheep, and being a native of a tropical clime, his fleece is of hair instead of wool, and of a warm reddish brown, approaching to yellow; a thick mane of darker hair, about seven inches long, commences from two long tufts at the angle of the jaws, and, running under the throat and neck, descends down the chest, dividing, at the fore fork, into two parts, one running down the front of each leg, as low as the shank. The horns, unlike the character of the order generally, have a quadrangular base, and, sweeping inwards, terminate in a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends in a tuft of stiff hairs. From this remarkable muffler-looking beard, the French have given the species the name of Mouflon à manchettes. From the primitive stock eleven varieties have been reared in this country, of the domesticated sheep, each supposed by their advocates to possess some one or more special qualities. These eleven, embracing the Shetland or Orkney; the Dun-woolled; Black-faced, or heath-bred; the Moorland, or Devonshire; the Cheviot; the Horned, of Norfolk the Ryeland; South-Down; the Merino; the Old Leicester, and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, have of late years been epitomized; and, for all useful and practical purposes, reduced to the following four orders:—
685. THE IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE, accidents, and other factors must have been significant to bring about the complete physical transformation that the primitive Argali must have experienced before the Musmon, or Mouflon of Corsica, the immediate ancestor of all our European breeds, took on its current appearance. The Argali is about 20% larger than the standard English sheep and, being native to a tropical environment, its fleece is made of hair rather than wool, in a warm reddish-brown color, nearing yellow. A thick mane of darker hair, around seven inches long, starts from two long tufts at the jawline and runs under the throat and neck, extending down the chest, where it splits at the fore fork into two sections, each running down the front of the legs to the shank. The horns, which are different from the typical shape within the species, have a square base and curve inward to a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends with a tuft of stiff hairs. Because of this distinctive beard, the French have named the species Mouflon à manchettes. From this primitive lineage, eleven domesticated sheep varieties have been developed in this country, each claimed by its proponents to have unique qualities. These eleven varieties include the Shetland or Orkney; the Dun-woolled; Black-faced, or heath-bred; the Moorland, or Devonshire; the Cheviot; the Horned of Norfolk; the Ryeland; South-Down; the Merino; the Old Leicester; and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, which have recently been summarized and, for practical purposes, reduced to the following four categories:—
686. THE SOUTH-DOWN, the LEICESTER, the BLACK-FACED, and the CHEVIOT.
686. THE SOUTH-DOWN, the LEICESTER, the BLACK-FACED, and the CHEVIOT.
[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN RAM.]
[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN RAM.]
[Illustration: SOUTH-DOWN EWE.]
[Illustration: South-Down Sheep.]
687. SOUTH-DOWNS.—It appears, as far as our investigation can trace the fact, that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history in England, the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the south-west and south of Sussex and Hampshire, and known as the South-Downs, has been famous for a superior race of sheep; and we find the Romans early established mills and a cloth-factory at Winchester, where they may be said to terminate, which rose to such estimation, from the fineness of the wool and texture of the cloth, that the produce was kept as only worthy to clothe emperors. From this, it may be inferred that sheep have always been indigenous to this hilly tract. Though boasting so remote a reputation, it is comparatively within late years that the improvement and present state of perfection of this breed has been effected, the South-Down new ranking, for symmetry of shape, constitution, and early maturity, with any stock in the kingdom. The South-Down has no horns, is covered with a fine wool from two to three inches long, has a small head, and legs and face of a grey colour. It is, however, considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest. A marked peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higher than the fore, the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds.
687. SOUTH-DOWNS.—It seems, based on our investigation, that from the very earliest days of agricultural history in England, the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the southwest and south of Sussex and Hampshire, known as the South-Downs, has been famous for a superior breed of sheep. The Romans established mills and a cloth factory at Winchester, where the South-Downs hills come to an end. The wool's quality and the cloth's texture were so highly regarded that the products were considered worthy only to clothe emperors. From this, we can infer that sheep have always thrived in this hilly region. Even though it has had a long-standing reputation, the improvement and current high standard of this breed have been achieved relatively recently, with the South-Down now ranking among the best in the country for shape, health, and early maturity. The South-Down sheep are hornless, covered in fine wool that is two to three inches long, have small heads, and their legs and faces are gray. However, they are considered to lack depth and breadth in their chests. A notable characteristic of this breed is that their hindquarters are higher than their front, with the hindquarters weighing between fifteen to eighteen pounds.
[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM.]
[Illustration: LEICESTER RAM.]
[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE.]
[Illustration: LEICESTER EWE.]
688. THE LEICESTER.—It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. Robert Bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of sheep, and ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock which has brought the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicester is regarded as the largest example of the improved breeds, very productive, and yielding a good fleece. He has a small head, covered with short white hairs, a clean muzzle, an open countenance, full eye, long thin ear, tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and straight back. The meat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as that of the South-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average weight of carcase from 90 to 100 lbs.
688. THE LEICESTER.—It wasn't until 1755 that Mr. Robert Bakewell focused on improving his sheep stock, ultimately making significant changes to his flock that elevated the breed to a prominent status. The Leicester sheep are considered the largest among the improved breeds, highly productive, and known for their good fleece. They have a small head covered with short white hair, a clean muzzle, an open face, full eyes, long thin ears, a tapering neck, well-arched ribs, and a straight back. The meat quality is average, not as flavorful as that of the South-Down, and has a high fat content. The average carcass weight ranges from 90 to 100 lbs.
[Illustration: HEATH RAM.]
[Illustration: HEATH RAM.]
[Illustration: HEATH EWE.]
[Illustration: HEATH EWE.]
689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP.—This is the most hardy of all our native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and legs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the top of the forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than on the face; has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and what shepherds call a mealy mouth; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, and well open; the body long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. The wool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16 lbs.
689. BLACK-FACED, on HEATH-BRED SHEEP.—This is the hardiest of all our native breeds and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and legs are black, or sometimes spotted, the horns are spiral, and there’s a small round tuft of lighter-colored wool on the forehead. The muzzle and lips are the same light color, and what shepherds call a mealy mouth; the eyes are bright and alert, and wide open; the body is long, round, and sturdy, and the limbs are strong. The wool is thin, coarse, and light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16 lbs.
690. THE CHEVIOT.—From the earliest traditions, these hills in the North, like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race of large-carcased sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physical advantages, they added a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, and capability to endure great privation. Both sexes are destitute of horns, face white, legs long and clean, carries the head erect, has the throat and neck well covered, the cars long and open, and the face animated. The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered with wool to the hough; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in the chest. Weight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs.
690. THE CHEVIOT.—From ancient times, these hills in the North, like the chalk ridges in the South, have been home to a breed of large-bodied sheep that produces a valuable fleece. Along with these physical traits, they have a robust constitution, impressive strength, and the ability to endure significant hardship. Both males and females are hornless, have white faces, long clean legs, hold their heads high, and have well-covered throats and necks, with long, open ears and an expressive face. The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, well covered with wool up to their hocks; the only drawback of this breed is a lack of depth in the chest. The weight of the quarter ranges from 12 to 18 lbs.
[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH RAM.]
[Illustration: Romney Marsh Ram.]
[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH EWE.]
[Illustration: ROMNEY-MARSH SHEEP.]
691. THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, that wide tract of morass and lowland moor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex, has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of sheep to be pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famous for a breed of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especially for size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is called thickness of stocking; and on this account for ages held pre-eminence over every other breed in the kingdom. So satisfied were the Kentish men with the superiority of their sheep, that they long resisted any crossing in the breed. At length, however, this was effected, and from the Old Romney and New Leicester a stock was produced that proved, in an eminent degree, the advantage of the cross; and though the breed was actually smaller than the original, it was found that the new stock did not consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they were ready for the market a year sooner; that the fat formed more on the exterior of the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, rather than as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal; and though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour, finer, and possessed of superior felting properties.
691. EVEN THOUGH THE ROMNEY MARSHES, a vast area of swamp and lowland moor that stretches from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex, has generally been seen as a common grazing area for all types of sheep, it has also been known since ancient times for a breed of sheep almost unique to the region. These sheep are especially renowned for their size, length, thickness, and quantity of wool, as well as what’s known as thickness of stocking. For a long time, they were considered superior to any other breed in the kingdom. The people of Kent were so confident in the superiority of their sheep that they resisted any crossbreeding for many years. Eventually, however, they did crossbreed, and by combining the Old Romney and New Leicester, they produced a stock that clearly demonstrated the benefits of the cross. Although this new breed was actually smaller than the original, it was found that this stock required less food, had improved stocking, and was ready for market a year earlier. Additionally, fat developed more on the exterior of the carcass, which was more beneficial for the grazier, rather than forming inside where it would be considered offal by the butcher. While the wool was shorter and lighter, it had a better color, was finer, and had superior felting properties.
692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep, close, and compact, with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple quality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, the chest being narrow and the extremities coarse; nevertheless its tendency to fatten, and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The Romney Marsh, therefore, though not ranking as a first class in respect of perfection and symmetry of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, and generally advantageous variety of the English domestic sheep.
692. THE ROMNEY MARSH BREED is a large animal, deep-bodied, compact, and has a white face and legs, producing a heavy fleece of good quality. However, its overall structure is seen as flawed, with a narrow chest and coarse limbs; still, its ability to gain weight and mature early is widely recognized. Therefore, the Romney Marsh, while not considered top-tier in terms of breed perfection and symmetry, is a highly useful, profitable, and generally beneficial variety of English domestic sheep.
693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders, according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; after weaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, or teg; later he is a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, a shearing, or dinmont; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three, or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. The female is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes, according to the shepherd's nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg; after shearing, a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and in future a two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave.
693. DIFFERENT NAMES HAVE BEEN GIVEN to sheep by their breeders, based on their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup; after weaning, he's referred to as a hog, hogget, or lamb-hog, tup-hog, or teg; later, he becomes a wether, or wether-hog; after the first shearing, he's called a shearing, or dinmont; and after each subsequent shearing, a two, three, or four-shear ram, tup, or wether, depending on the situation. The female is called a ewe, or gimmer-lamb, until weaning, when she becomes a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg, according to the shepherd's language; after shearing, she's known as a gimmer or shearing-ewe, or theave; and going forward, a two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave.
694. THE MODE OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is perhaps as humane and expeditious a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought: the animal being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of the jaw, passing his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck; thus dividing the jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death being very rapid from such a hemorrhage.
694. THE METHOD OF SLAUGHTERING SHEEP is probably one of the most humane and efficient ways to achieve the intended goal: the animal is laid on its side in a concave stool, and the butcher, while pressing down on the body with his knee, stabs the throat near the jawline, sliding his knife between the windpipe and the neck bones; this cuts the jugulars, carotids, and major blood vessels, resulting in quick death due to the rapid blood loss.
[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
[Illustration: SIDE OF MUTTON, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a particular manner of cutting up, or, as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is very simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back, doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep, they avoid all such treatment entirely. The carcase when flayed (which operation is performed while yet warm), the sheep when hung up and the head removed, presents the profile shown in our cut; the small numerals indicating the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is cut. After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in the sketch, in which the several joins are defined by the intervening lines and figures. Hind quarter: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin—the two, when cut in one piece, being called the saddle. Fore quarter: No. 3, the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 being called, for distinction, the scrag, which is generally afterwards separated from 4, the lower and better joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, so often served at public dinners and special entertainments, comprises all the leg and so much of the loin, short of the ribs or lap, as is indicated on the upper part of the carcase by a dotted line.
695. ALMOST EVERY LARGE CITY has a specific way of butchering, or as it's called, dressing the carcass. In London, this process is quite straightforward, and since our butchers have discovered that excessive skewering, folding one part over another, or cutting into the inner skin tends to ruin the meat and shorten its shelf life, they completely avoid these methods. The carcass, once skinned (an operation done while it's still warm), presents the profile shown in our illustration; the small numbers indicate the parts or joints into which one half of the animal is divided. After separating the hind from the forequarters, with eleven ribs in the latter, the quarters are usually divided as shown in the sketch, where the different joints are marked by the lines and figures in between. Hind quarter: No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin—together, when cut as one piece, they are called the saddle. Fore quarter: No. 3, the shoulder; 4 and 5 the neck; No. 5 is specifically called the scrag, which is usually separated from 4, the lower and better joint; No. 6, the breast. The haunch of mutton, frequently served at public dinners and special events, consists of the entire leg and part of the loin, stopping before the ribs, as indicated by a dotted line on the upper part of the carcass.
696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID DISPOSITION of the sheep, and its defenceless condition, must very early have attached it to man for motives less selfish than either its fleece or its flesh; for it has been proved beyond a doubt that, obtuse as we generally regard it, it is susceptible of a high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affection. In many parts of Europe, where the flocks are guided by the shepherd's voice alone, it is no unusual thing for a sheep to quit the herd when called by its name, and follow the keeper like a dog. In the mountains of Scotland, when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams have been known to form the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on the outside line, keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have despatched him with their horns.
696. THE GENTLE AND TIMID NATURE of sheep, along with their defenseless state, must have made them bond with humans for reasons less selfish than just their wool or meat; it’s been clearly shown that, despite how dull we often think they are, they can actually be quite affectionate, obedient, and domesticated. In many parts of Europe, where shepherds rely solely on their voices to guide flocks, it’s not uncommon for a sheep to leave its group when called by name and follow its shepherd like a dog. In the Scottish mountains, when a vicious dog attacks a flock, rams have been known to form a circle to protect the herd, positioning themselves on the outer line, and either holding off the attacker or charging at it together to take it down with their horns.
697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been early understood by Adam in his fallen state; his skin not only affording him protection for his body, but a covering for his tent; and accordingly, we find Abel intrusted with this portion of his father's stock; for the Bible tells us that "Abel was a keeper of sheep." What other animals were domesticated at that time we can only conjecture, or at what exact period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for food by man, is equally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though some authorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose that when Abel brought firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof," as a sacrifice, the less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardly likely to have been flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adam and his descendants to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile the fact of Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family, living in tents, as they are reported to have done, knowing that both their own garments and the coverings of the tents, were made from the hides and skins of the animals they bred; for the number of sheep and oxen slain for oblations only, would not have supplied sufficient material for two such necessary purposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food was not eaten till after the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with Noah. From Scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards the sheep: the first, that mutton fat was considered the most delicious portion of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite morsel in the whole body; consequently, such were regarded as especially fit for the offer of sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably infer that the animal still so often met with in Palestine and Syria, and known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was in use in the days of the patriarchs, though probably not then of the size and weight it now attains to; a supposition that gains greater strength, when it is remembered that the ram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to offer up Isaac, was a horned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved horns; so far proving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridae, the fat-tailed sheep appertaining to the same family.
697. THE VALUE OF THE SHEEP seems to have been recognized early by Adam in his fallen state; its skin not only provided protection for his body but also served as a covering for his tent. Accordingly, we find Abel entrusted with this part of his father's livestock; the Bible tells us that "Abel was a keeper of sheep." What other animals were domesticated at that time is uncertain, as is the exact period when humans first began to eat sheep meat. While some sources argue otherwise, it's reasonable to think that when Abel brought the firstlings of his flock, "and the fat thereof," as a sacrifice, the less desirable portions, which were not offerings, were unlikely to have been discarded as waste. In fact, unless we assume that Adam and his descendants ate meat, we can't explain how Jubal Cain, Cain's son, and his family lived in tents, as they reportedly did, knowing that both their clothing and the coverings for their tents were made from the hides and skins of the animals they raised. Simply sacrificing sheep and oxen wouldn’t have supplied enough material for these essential needs. On the other hand, some believe that meat wasn't consumed until after the Flood when the Lord renewed His covenant with Noah. From the Bible, we learn many interesting facts about sheep: the first being that mutton fat was considered the most delicious part of any meat, with the tail and nearby areas deemed the most exquisite morsels of the whole body; therefore, these parts were especially suited for sacrifice. From this, we can reasonably infer that the animal still commonly found in Palestine and Syria, known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was used in the days of the patriarchs, although it likely wasn’t as large and heavy then as it is today. This assumption is reinforced by the fact that the ram Abraham found in the bush when he went to offer Isaac was a horned animal, caught by its curved horns; thus indicating that it belonged to the Capridae family, which includes the fat-tailed sheep.
LAMBS.
698. THOUGH THE LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY usually commences in March, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please the appetite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however, the sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather would endanger the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, it is customary to rear the lambs within-doors, and under the shelter of stables or barns, where, foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow's milk, the little creatures thrive rapidly: to such it is customary to give the name of House Lamb, to distinguish it from that reared in the open air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five months with her young, about 152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning season commences on poor lands, about the end of the third month, but on rich pasture not till the close of the fourth—sometimes longer.
698. EVEN THOUGH LAMBING SEASON IN THIS COUNTRY typically starts in March, due to the artificial methods now used to cater to luxury, lambs can be found at any time of the year. However, when sheep give birth in the middle of winter, or when harsh weather could threaten the lives of the mother and her young, it’s common to raise the lambs indoors, under the protection of stables or barns. There, they are fed soft hay and partially fed cow's milk, allowing them to grow quickly. These lambs are referred to as House Lambs to differentiate them from those raised outdoors or on grass. The ewe carries her young for about five months, or roughly 152 days, which is close to 22 weeks. Weaning begins on poor land at the end of the third month, but on rich pasture, it doesn't start until the end of the fourth month—sometimes even longer.
699. FROM THE LARGE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS contained in the tissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much more prone, in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than the flesh of the more mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton. Among epicures, the most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the South-Down breed, known by their black feet; and of these, those which have been exclusively suckled on the milk of the parent ewe, are considered the finest. Next to these in estimation are those fed on the milk of several dams, and last of all, though the fattest, the grass-fed lamb; this, however, implies an age much greater than either of the others.
699. BECAUSE OF THE HIGH LEVEL OF MOISTURE OR FLUIDS in the tissues of all young animals, lamb and veal spoil much faster in warm, humid weather compared to the more mature, drier, and denser beef and mutton. Among food enthusiasts, the most delicious types of lamb come from the South-Down breed, which is recognized by their black feet; those that have only been fed on the milk of their mother ewe are regarded as the best. Following these in preference are lambs fed on the milk from several mothers, and lastly, although they are the fattiest, are the grass-fed lambs; however, this indicates they are considerably older than the other types.
[Illustration: SIDE OF LAMB.]
[Illustration: LAMB SIDE.]
700. LAMB, in the early part of the season, however reared, is in London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with eleven ribs to the forequarter; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided into two, and the hind-quarter in the same manner; the first consisting of the shoulder, and the neck and breast; the latter, of the leg and the loin,—as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture that may form on it.
700. Lamb, at the beginning of the season, is sold in London, and generally, in quarters, divided with eleven ribs in the forequarter. However, as the season progresses, these are divided into two parts, and the hindquarter in a similar way; the first part consists of the shoulder, neck, and breast, while the second part includes the leg and loin, as shown in the illustration for mutton. Since lamb meat is particularly prone to spoilage in unfavorable weather due to its juicy nature, it should be wiped down frequently to remove any moisture that may accumulate on it.
701. IN THE PURCHASING OF LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs by which the experienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion whether the animal has been lately slaughtered, and whether the joints possess that condition of fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat. The first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily by the bright and dilated appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the jugular, or vein of the neck; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm, compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner for the integrity of the hind-quarter.
701. WHEN BUYING LAMB FOR THE TABLE, there are certain signs that experienced buyers use to accurately judge whether the animal was recently slaughtered and whether the meat quality is good and healthy. The first concern can be addressed by the bright and wide appearance of the eye; the quality of the fore-quarter can be assured by the healthy bluish-red color of the jugular vein in the neck; while the stiffness of the knuckle and the firm, compact feel of the kidney will similarly confirm the quality of the hind-quarter.
702. MODE OF CUTTING UP A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.—1, 1. Ribs; 2. Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter.
702. HOW TO CUT A SIDE OF LAMB IN LONDON.—1, 1. Ribs; 2. Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XV.
BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cooking).
703. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, 1 or 2 onions, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, mashed potatoes.
703. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers from any cold roast mutton, 1 or 2 onions, 1 bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of gravy, mashed potatoes.
Mode.—Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown colour; add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely minced and well mixed; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then another layer of potatoes, and bake for about 1/2 hour.
Method.—Finely chop an onion and fry it until it's light brown; add the herbs and finely minced mutton, mixing them well. Season with pepper, salt, and a bit of ground mace or nutmeg, and moisten with the specified amount of gravy. Place a layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then add the mutton, followed by another layer of potatoes, and bake for about 30 minutes.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—If there should be a large quantity of meat, use 2 onions instead of 1.
Note.—If you have a lot of meat, use 2 onions instead of 1.
BOILED BREAST OF MUTTON AND CAPER SAUCE.
704. INGREDIENTS.—Breast of mutton, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs (put a large proportion of parsley), pepper and salt to taste.
704. INGREDIENTS.—Mutton breast, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons of chopped savory herbs (use a lot of parsley), pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut off the superfluous fat; bone it; sprinkle over a layer of bread crumbs, minced herbs, and seasoning; roll, and bind it up firmly. Boil gently for 2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with caper sauce, No. 382, a little of which should be poured over the meat.
Mode.—Remove the excess fat; debone it; sprinkle a layer of bread crumbs, chopped herbs, and seasoning over it; roll it up and secure it tightly. Simmer gently for 2 hours, take off the string, and serve with caper sauce, No. 382, a bit of which should be poured over the meat.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time: 2 hours. Average cost: 6 pence per pound.
Sufficient for 4 or 6 persons.
Sufficient for 4 or 6 people.
Seasonable all the year.
Year-round.
BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.
705. INGREDIENTS.—Mutton, water, salt.
705. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb, water, salt.
Mode.—A. leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as it will not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone, trim the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into sufficient boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, where it should remain till the finger can be borne in the water. Then place it sufficiently near the fire, that the water may gently simmer, and be very careful that it does not boil fast, or the meat will be hard. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2-1/4 hours after the water begins to simmer, a moderate-sized leg of mutton will be done. Serve with carrots and mashed turnips, which may be boiled with the meat, and send caper sauce (No. 382) to table with it in a tureen.
Mode.—A leg of mutton for boiling shouldn’t hang for too long, as it won’t have a good color when cooked. Cut off the shank bone, trim the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean; plunge it into enough boiling water to cover it; let it come to a boil, then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, where it should stay until you can comfortably hold your finger in the water. Then place it close enough to the fire so that the water gently simmers, and be very careful that it doesn’t boil rapidly, or the meat will be tough. Skim well, add a little salt, and in about 2-1/4 hours after the water starts to simmer, a medium-sized leg of mutton will be done. Serve it with carrots and mashed turnips, which can be boiled with the meat, and bring caper sauce (No. 382) to the table in a tureen.
Time.—A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2-1/4 hours after the water boils; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours.
Time.—A medium-sized leg of mutton weighing 9 lbs. should be cooked for 2 hours and 15 minutes after the water starts boiling; a 12 lb. leg will take 3 hours.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5d. per lb.
Sufficient.—A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons.
Sufficient.—A medium-sized leg of lamb for 6 to 8 people.
Seasonable nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, and August.
Good for most of the year, but not as great in June, July, and August.
Note.—When meat is liked very thoroughly cooked, allow more time than stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should be converted into soup.
Note.—When meat is preferred very well cooked, allow more time than mentioned above. The broth this joint was cooked in should be turned into soup.
THE GOOD SHEPHERD.—The sheep's complete dependence upon the shepherd for protection from its numerous enemies is frequently referred to in the Bible; thus the Psalmist likens himself to a lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek his servant; and our Saviour, when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach the Gospel amongst their unbelieving brethren, compares them to lambs going amongst wolves. The shepherd of the East, by kind treatment, calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs of affection. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by which he calls them, and they follow him in and out of the fold. The beautiful figure of the "good shepherd," which so often occurs in the New Testament, expresses the tenderness of the Saviour for mankind. "The good shepherd giveth his life for the sheep."—John, x. 11. "I am the good shepherd, and know my sheep, and am known by mine."—John, x. 14. "And other sheep I have which are not of this fold: them also I must bring, and they shall hear my voice: and there shall be one fold and one shepherd."—John, x. 16.
THE GOOD SHEPHERD.—The sheep's complete dependence on the shepherd for protection from its many enemies is often mentioned in the Bible; the Psalmist compares himself to a lost sheep and asks God to seek out his servant. When our Savior sends his twelve chosen disciples to preach the Gospel to their unbelieving peers, he describes them as lambs among wolves. The shepherd in the East, through kindness, draws unmistakable signs of affection from his sheep. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names he calls them, following him in and out of the fold. The beautiful image of the "good shepherd," which appears frequently in the New Testament, represents the tenderness of the Savior for humanity. "The good shepherd lays down his life for the sheep."—John, x. 11. "I am the good shepherd; I know my sheep, and my sheep know me."—John, x. 14. "I have other sheep that are not of this pen; I must bring them too. They will listen to my voice, and there shall be one flock and one shepherd."—John, x. 16.
BONED LEG OF MUTTON STUFFED.
706. INGREDIENTS.—A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs., forcemeat, No. 417, 2 shalots finely minced.
706. INGREDIENTS.—A small leg of lamb, weighing 6 or 7 lbs., stuffing, No. 417, 2 shallots finely chopped.
Mode.—Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, to which add 2 finely-minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling the skin, and cut off a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the bone was taken, with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to prevent its falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it before a nice clear fire for about 2-1/2 hours or rather longer; remove the tape and send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or not, as preferred.
Mode.—Make a meat filling using recipe No. 417, then add 2 finely chopped shallots. Carefully bone the leg of mutton without damaging the skin and trim off most of the fat. Stuff the cavity where the bone was removed with the meat filling and sew it up from underneath to keep it from falling out. Securely bind and tie it, then roast it in front of a nice clear fire for about 2 ½ hours or a bit longer; remove the string and serve it with a good gravy. You can choose to glaze it or not, depending on your preference.
Time.—2-1/2 hours, or rather longer. Average cost, 4s. 8d.
Time.—2.5 hours, or a bit longer. Average cost, £0.23.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BRAISED FILLET OF MUTTON, with French Beans.
BRAISED MUTTON FILLET, with Green Beans.
707. INGREDIENTS.—The chump end of a loin of mutton, buttered paper, French beans, a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy.
707. INGREDIENTS.—The chump end of a loin of lamb, buttered paper, French beans, a bit of glaze, 1 pint of gravy.
Mode.—Roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast it for 2 hours, and do not allow it to acquire the least colour. Have ready some French beans, boiled, and drained on a sieve; remove the paper from the mutton, glaze it; just heat up the beans in the gravy, and lay them on the dish with the meat over them. The remainder of the gravy may be strained, and sent to table in a tureen.
Method.—Wrap the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast it for 2 hours, and prevent it from getting any color. Prepare some French beans, boiled and drained in a colander; take the paper off the mutton, glaze it; briefly warm up the beans in the gravy, and place them on the dish with the meat on top. Strain the leftover gravy and serve it in a tureen.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 8.5p per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
VARIOUS QUALITIES OF MUTTON—Mutton is, undoubtedly, the meat most generally used in families; and, both by connoisseurs and medical men, it stands first in favour, whether its the favour, digestible qualifications, or general wholesomeness, be considered. Of all mutton, that furnished by South-Down sheep is the most highly esteemed; it is also the dearest, on account of its scarcity, and the great demand of it. Therefore, if the housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his shop, it should not occasion disappointment to the purchaser. The London and other markets are chiefly supplied with sheep called half-breeds, which are a cross between the Down and Lincoln or Leicester. These half-breeds make a greater weight of mutton than the true South-Downs, and, for this very desirable qualification, they are preferred by the great sheep-masters. The legs of this mutton range from 7 to 11 lbs. in weight; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about 6 to 9 lbs.; and if care is taken not to purchase it; the shoulders, necks, or loins, about 8 to 9 lbs.; and it cure is taken not to purchase it too fat, it will be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that can be bought.
VARIOUS QUALITIES OF MUTTON—Mutton is definitely the meat most commonly used in households, and it is highly favored by both food experts and medical professionals, whether you look at its taste, digestibility, or overall health benefits. Among all types of mutton, that from South-Down sheep is considered the best; it's also the most expensive due to its rarity and high demand. So, if a housekeeper hears from the butcher that there isn't any available, it shouldn't come as a disappointment to the buyer. The London and other markets mostly get their sheep from a breed called half-breeds, which are a cross between Down and Lincoln or Leicester sheep. These half-breeds produce more mutton than the true South-Downs, and for this reason, they are favored by large sheep farmers. The legs of this mutton typically weigh between 7 to 11 lbs.; the shoulders, necks, or loins weigh around 6 to 9 lbs.; and if care is taken to avoid buying it too fatty, it will turn out to be the most satisfying and economical mutton available.
BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.
708. INGREDIENTS.—1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, 1/2 pint of gravy or water.
708. INGREDIENTS.—1 small leg of lamb, 4 carrots, 3 onions, 1 bunch of savory herbs, a handful of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of bacon, a few veal scraps, 1/2 pint of gravy or water.
Mode.—Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of bacon, put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and over these place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew very gently for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over a sharp fire, glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on a dish of white haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed onions.
Mode.—Line the bottom of a braising pan with a few slices of bacon, add the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, then place the mutton on top. Cover everything with a few more slices of bacon and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and simmer very gently for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over high heat, glaze the mutton with it, and serve it on a plate of tender boiled white haricot beans or garnished with glazed onions.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, 5s.
Duration: 4 hours. Average cost: 5s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Fits 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE.—This order of knighthood was founded by Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy, in 1429, on the day of his marriage with the Princess Isabella of Portugal. The number of the members was originally fixed at thirty-one, including the sovereign, as the head and chief of the institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X. consented to increase the number to fifty-two, including the head. In 1700 the German emperor Charles VI. and King Philip of Spain both laid claim to the order. The former, however, on leaving Spain, which he could not maintain by force of arms, took with him, to Vienna, the archives of the order, the inauguration of which he solemnized there in 1713, with great magnificence; but Philip V. of Spain declared himself Grand Master, and formally protested, at the congress of Cambrai (1721), against the pretensions of the emperor. The dispute, though subsequently settled by the intercession of France, England, and Holland, was frequently renewed, until the order was tacitly introduced into both countries, and it now passes by the respective names of the Spanish or Austrian "Order of the Golden Fleece," according to the country where it is issued.
THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE.—This order of knighthood was founded by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, in 1429, on the day of his marriage to Princess Isabella of Portugal. The original number of members was set at thirty-one, including the sovereign as the head and chief of the institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X agreed to raise the number to fifty-two, including the head. In 1700, both the German Emperor Charles VI and King Philip of Spain claimed the order. However, when the former left Spain, which he could not keep by force, he took the order's archives with him to Vienna, where he officially inaugurated it in 1713 with great splendor; meanwhile, Philip V of Spain declared himself Grand Master and protested at the Congress of Cambrai (1721) against the emperor's claims. The dispute was later resolved through the mediation of France, England, and Holland, but it was frequently reopened, until the order was quietly established in both countries and is now known as the Spanish or Austrian "Order of the Golden Fleece," depending on the country from which it is issued.
AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OF MUTTON.
709. INGREDIENTS.—Breast of mutton, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.
709. INGREDIENTS.—Breast of lamb, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, flour, a bunch of savory herbs, green peas.
Mode.—Cut the mutton into pieces about 2 inches square, and let it be tolerably lean; put it into a stewpan, with a little fat or butter, and fry it of a nice brown; then dredge in a little flour, slice the onions, and put it with the herbs in the stewpan; pour in sufficient water just to cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until the mutton is tender. Take out the meat, strain, and skim off all the fat from the gravy, and put both the meat and gravy back into the stewpan; add about a quart of young green peas, and let them boil gently until done. 2 or 3 slices of bacon added and stewed with the mutton give additional flavour; and, to insure the peas being a beautiful green colour, they may be boiled in water separately, and added to the stew at the moment of serving.
Method.—Cut the lamb into pieces about 2 inches square, making sure it’s reasonably lean. Place it in a stew pot with a bit of fat or butter and brown it nicely. Then sprinkle in a little flour, slice the onions, and add them along with the herbs to the pot. Pour in just enough water to cover the meat, and let everything simmer gently until the lamb is tender. Remove the meat, strain, and skim off all the fat from the gravy, then return both the meat and gravy to the pot. Add about a quart of young green peas and let them boil gently until they’re cooked. Adding 2 or 3 slices of bacon to stew with the lamb gives extra flavor; and to ensure the peas stay a vibrant green, you can boil them separately in water and add them to the stew right before serving.
Time.—2-1/2 hours.
Duration.—2.5 hours.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from June to August.
Seasonal from June to August.
NAMES OF ANIMALS SAXON, AND OF THEIR FLESH NORMAN.—The names of all our domestic animals are of Saxon origin; but it is curious to observe that Norman names have been given to the different sorts of flesh which these animals yield. How beautifully this illustrates the relative position of Saxon and Norman after the Conquest. The Saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding the domestic animals, but only that they might appear on the table of his Norman lord. Thus 'ox,' 'steer,' 'cow,' are Saxon, but 'beef' is Norman; 'calf' is Saxon, but 'veal' Norman; 'sheep' is Saxon, but 'mutton' Norman; so it is severally with 'deer' and 'venison,' 'swine' and 'pork,' 'fowl' and 'pullet.' 'Bacon,' the only flesh which, perhaps, ever came within his reach, is the single exception.
NAMES OF ANIMALS SAXON, AND OF THEIR FLESH NORMAN.—The names of all our domestic animals come from Saxon origins, but it’s interesting to note that the names for the different types of meat they provide are of Norman origin. This nicely illustrates the relationship between Saxon and Norman cultures after the Conquest. The Saxon farmer was responsible for caring for and raising the domestic animals, but only so that they could be served at the table of his Norman lord. So, 'ox,' 'steer,' and 'cow' are Saxon, but 'beef' is Norman; 'calf' is Saxon, while 'veal' is Norman; 'sheep' is Saxon, but 'mutton' is Norman; and the same goes for 'deer' and 'venison,' 'swine' and 'pork,' and 'fowl' and 'pullet.' 'Bacon,' the only type of meat that perhaps ever reached him, is the one exception.
BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).
BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE (Cold Meat Cooking).
710. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold mutton, tomato sauce, No. 529.
710. INGREDIENTS.—Some slices of cold lamb, tomato sauce, No. 529.
Mode.—Cut some nice slices from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton; season them with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. Make some tomato sauce by recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and serve. This makes an excellent dish, and must be served very hot.
Mode.—Slice some nice pieces from a cold leg or shoulder of mutton; season them with salt and pepper, and grill over a clear fire. Prepare some tomato sauce using recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and serve. This creates an excellent dish and should be served very hot.
Time.—About 5 minutes to broil the mutton.
Time.—About 5 minutes to broil the lamb.
Seasonable in September and October, when tomatoes are plentiful and seasonable.
In season in September and October, when tomatoes are abundant and ripe.
SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS.—The shepherd's crook is older than either the husbandman's plough or the warrior's sword. We are told that Abel was a keeper of sheep. Many passages in holy writ enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the first eastern nations; and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks, when we read that Jacob gave the children of Hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field, and that the king of Israel received a hundred thousand every year from the king of Moab, his tributary, and a like number of rams covered with their fleece. The tendency which most sheep have to ramble, renders it necessary for them to be attended by a shepherd. To keep a flock within bounds, is no easy task; but the watchful shepherd manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the Highlands of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, the sheep-farm requires to be very large, and to be watched over by many shepherds. The farms of some of the great Scottish landowners are of enormous extent. "How many sheep have you on your estate?" asked Prince Esterhazy of the duke of Argyll. "I have not the most remote idea," replied the duke; "but I know the shepherds number several thousands."
SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS.—The shepherd's crook is older than both the farmer's plow and the warrior's sword. We learn that Abel was a shepherd. Many passages in holy texts help us understand the pastoral wealth of the early eastern nations; we can grasp the size of their flocks when we read that Jacob paid a hundred sheep to the children of Hamor for a field and that the king of Israel received a hundred thousand sheep each year from the king of Moab, who was his subordinate, along with the same number of rams covered in their fleece. The tendency of most sheep to wander makes it essential for them to have a shepherd. Keeping a flock in check is no simple task, but a diligent shepherd can do it without stressing the sheep. In the Scottish Highlands, where grass is limited, sheep farms must be very large and overseen by many shepherds. Some of the estates owned by major Scottish landowners are enormous. "How many sheep do you have on your estate?" Prince Esterhazy asked the Duke of Argyll. "I haven't the slightest idea," the duke replied, "but I know the shepherds count in the thousands."
BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.
711. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of butter.
711. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of lamb, pepper and salt, a small amount of butter.
Mode.—Cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton, remove a portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice shape; slightly beat and level them; place the gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub the bars with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequently turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season with pepper and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter on each chop, and serve very hot and expeditiously.
Mode.—Cut the chops from a well-aged tenderloin of mutton, trim off some of the fat, and shape them nicely; lightly pound and flatten them. Put the grill over a strong, clear fire, grease the bars with a bit of fat, and place the chops on it. While grilling, turn them frequently, and in about 8 minutes they will be ready. Season with pepper and salt, serve them on a very hot plate, spread a small piece of butter on each chop, and serve very hot and quickly.
Time.—About 8 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Time.—About 8 minutes. Average cost, 10p. per lb.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 chop to each person.
Sufficient.—Give 1 chop to each person.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal anytime.
CHINA CHILO.
712. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions, 2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 1/4 pint of water, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter; when liked, a little cayenne.
712. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lbs. of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions, 2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of pepper, 1/4 pint of water, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter; optional, a bit of cayenne.
Mode.—Mince the above quantity of undressed leg, loin, or neck of mutton, adding a little of the fat, also minced; put it into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients, previously shredding the lettuce and onion rather fine; closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients have been well stirred, and simmer gently for rather more than 2 hours. Serve in a dish, with a border of rice round, the same as for curry.
Mode.—Chop the specified amount of raw leg, loin, or neck of mutton, including some of the fat, also chopped; place it in a stewpan along with the other ingredients, having finely shredded the lettuce and onion. Once everything is mixed well, cover the stewpan tightly and let it simmer gently for just over 2 hours. Serve it on a plate, with a ring of rice around it, similar to how you would for curry.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—Slightly over 2 hours. Average cost, 1.5.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from June to August.
Summer from June to August.
CURRIED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
CURRIED MUTTON (Chilled Meat Recipe).
713. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of any joint of cold mutton, 2 onions, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste, 1/4 pint of stock or water.
713. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers from any cold mutton joint, 2 onions, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 dessert spoon of curry powder, 1 dessert spoon of flour, salt to taste, and 1/4 pint of stock or water.
Mode.—Slice the onions in thin rings, and put them into a stewpan with the butter, and fry of a light brown; stir in the curry powder, flour, and salt, and mix all well together. Cut the meat into nice thin slices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it may be minced), and add it to the other ingredients; when well browned, add the stock or gravy, and stew gently for about 1/2 hour. Serve in a dish with a border of boiled rice, the same as for other curries.
Mode.—Slice the onions into thin rings and place them in a saucepan with the butter, frying until they’re a light brown. Stir in the curry powder, flour, and salt, mixing everything well. Cut the meat into nice thin slices (if there isn’t enough to do this, it can be minced), and add it to the other ingredients; when it’s nicely browned, add the stock or gravy and simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Serve it on a plate with a border of boiled rice, just like other curries.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cooking).
714. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold loin or neck of mutton, 1 egg, bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529).
714. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold loin or neck of mutton, 1 egg, bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529).
Mode.—Cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets, trim them, and take away a portion of the fat, should there be too much; dip them in beaten egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry them a nice brown in hot dripping. Arrange them on a dish, and pour round them either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce.
Mode.—Cut leftover cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets, trim them, and remove any excess fat; dip them in beaten eggs, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot oil. Arrange them on a plate and pour either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce around them.
Time.—About 7 minutes.
Duration.—About 7 minutes.
Seasonable.—Tomatoes to be had most reasonably in September and October.
Seasonable.—Tomatoes are most affordable in September and October.
DORMERS.
715. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef suet, pepper and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg, bread crumbs, made gravy.
715. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef fat, pepper and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg, bread crumbs, prepared gravy.
Mode.—Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely; mix well together, and add a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and roll into sausages; cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot dripping of a nice brown. Serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them, and a little in a tureen.
Mode.—Finely chop the meat, fat, and rice; mix them together thoroughly, and add plenty of pepper and salt for seasoning. Shape the mixture into sausages, coat them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot oil until they're a nice brown color. Serve on a plate with gravy poured around them, and a little in a separate bowl.
Time.—1/2 hour to fry the sausages.
Time.—30 minutes to fry the sausages.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
THE GOLDEN FLEECE.—The ancient fable of the Golden Fleece may be thus briefly told:—Phryxus, a son of Athamus, king of Thebes, to escape the persecutions of his stepmother Ino, paid a visit to his friend Aeetes, king of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece was of pure gold, carried the youth through the air in a most obliging manner to the court of his friend. When safe At Colchis, Phryxus offered the ram on the altars of Mars, and pocketed the fleece. The king received him with great kindness, and gave him his daughter Chalciope in marriage; but, some time after, he murdered him in order to obtain possession of the precious fleece. The murder of Phryxus was amply revenged by the Greeks. It gave rise to the famous Argonautic expedition, undertaken by Jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of Greece. The Argonauts recovered the fleece by the help of the celebrated sorceress Medea, daughter of Aeetes, who fell desperately in love with the gallant but faithless Jason. In the story of the voyage of the Argo, a substratum of truth probably exists, though overlaid by a mass of fiction. The ram which carried Phryxus to Colchis is by some supposed to have been the name of the ship in which he embarked. The fleece of gold is thought to represent the immense treasures he bore away from Thebes. The alchemists of the fifteenth century were firmly convinced that the Golden Fleece was a treatise on the transmutation of metals, written on sheepskin.
THE GOLDEN FLEECE.—The ancient story of the Golden Fleece can be told like this: Phryxus, the son of Athamus, king of Thebes, fled from the torment of his stepmother Ino and visited his friend Aeetes, king of Colchis. A ram with a pure gold fleece kindly carried him through the sky to his friend's court. Once safe in Colchis, Phryxus sacrificed the ram at the altars of Mars and took the fleece. The king welcomed him warmly and gave him his daughter Chalciope as a wife; however, some time later, he killed Phryxus to get the valuable fleece for himself. The Greeks avenged Phryxus's murder, which led to the famous Argonauts’ expedition led by Jason and fifty of Greece’s most legendary heroes. They retrieved the fleece with the help of the renowned sorceress Medea, daughter of Aeetes, who fell deeply in love with the brave yet unfaithful Jason. The tale of the voyage of the Argo likely contains some element of truth, though it's heavily mixed with fiction. Some believe the ram that took Phryxus to Colchis was named after the ship they sailed on. The golden fleece is thought to symbolize the great treasures he brought back from Thebes. In the fifteenth century, alchemists were convinced that the Golden Fleece was a guide to changing metals, written on sheepskin.
HARICOT MUTTON.
I.
716. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of the middle or best end of the neck of mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, popper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
716. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of the middle or best part of the neck of mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
Mode.—Trim off some of the fat, cut the mutton into rather thin chops, and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry of a pale brown, but do not cook them enough for eating. Cut the carrots and turnips into dice, and the onions into slices, and slightly fry them in the same fat that the mutton was browned in, but do not allow them to take any colour. Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan, then the vegetables, and pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover the whole. Give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender. Skim off every particle of fat, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and a little ketchup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the day before it is wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily removed when the gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended to, as it is apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is made. It should be served in rather a deep dish.
Mode.—Trim some of the fat, cut the mutton into fairly thin chops, and place them in a frying pan with the fat trimmings. Fry until they are a light brown, but don’t cook them fully. Dice the carrots and turnips, and slice the onions, then lightly fry them in the same fat that the mutton was browned in, but avoid letting them color. Now place the mutton at the bottom of a stewpan, then add the vegetables, and pour in just enough boiling water to cover everything. Bring it to a boil, skim well, and then set the pan to simmer gently until the meat is tender. Remove every bit of fat, add some pepper and salt, along with a little ketchup, and serve. This dish is much better if made the day before it's needed, as the fat can be more easily removed when the gravy is cold. This should be carefully noted since it tends to be rather rich and greasy if eaten on the same day it's made. It should be served in a deep dish.
Time.—2-1/2 hours to simmer gently.
Time.—2.5 hours to simmer gently.
Average cost, for this quantity, 3s.
Average cost, for this quantity, 3 shillings.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Good for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
II.
717. INGREDIENTS.—Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1 large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade of mace, carrots and turnips, sugar.
717. INGREDIENTS.—Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper, and salt to taste, 1 large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savory herbs, 1 blade of mace, carrots, and turnips, sugar.
Mode.—Cut the mutton into square pieces, and fry them a nice colour; then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with boiling water, adding the onion, stuck with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. Simmer gently till the meat is nearly done, skim off all the fat, and then add the carrots and turnips, which should previously be cut in dice and fried in a little sugar to colour them. Let the whole simmer again for 10 minutes; take out the onion and bunch of herbs, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the mutton into square pieces and fry them until nicely browned; then sprinkle them with a little flour, along with some pepper and salt. Place everything in a stewpan and add boiling water, along with the onion, which should have 3 cloves stuck in it, the mace, and herbs. Let it simmer gently until the meat is nearly cooked, skim off all the fat, and then add the carrots and turnips, which should be diced and lightly fried in a bit of sugar to color them. Allow it to simmer again for 10 minutes; remove the onion and herb bundle, and serve.
Time.—About 3 hours to simmer.
Time.—Simmer for about 3 hours.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cooking).
718. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of good gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery.
718. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of good gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoons of port wine, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery.
Mode.—Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off the fat; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter, of a nice brown colour; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it stew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables until nearly tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about 1/4 hour before it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchup and port wine, give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the cold mutton into medium-sized chops and remove the fat. Slice the onions and fry them with the chops in a little butter until they are nicely browned. Stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it simmer gently for about an hour. In the meantime, boil the vegetables until they are nearly tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about 15 minutes before serving. Season with pepper and salt, add the ketchup and port wine, bring to a boil, and serve.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 9d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 9d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
HASHED MUTTON.
719. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton, 6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour.
719. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast shoulder or leg of mutton, 6 whole peppercorns, 6 whole allspice berries, a bunch of savory herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour.
Mode.—Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming off all superfluous fat and gristle; chop the bones and fragments of the joint, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, and celery; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onion of a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it thick, and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for 1/4 hour, strain the gravy, and let it cool; then skim off every particle of fat, and put it, with the meat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey's sauce; tomato sauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let the meat gradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. To hash meat properly, it should be laid in cold gravy, and only left on the fire just long enough to warm through.
Mode.—Slice the meat into even pieces from the bones, trimming off all excess fat and gristle; chop the bones and leftover pieces of the joint, and place them into a stewpot with pepper, spices, herbs, and celery; cover with water and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the onion until it’s a nice pale-brown color, sprinkle a little flour to thicken it, and add this to the bones, etc. Stew for 15 minutes, strain the gravy, and let it cool; then skim off every bit of fat and put it, along with the meat, into a stewpot. Season with ketchup, Harvey's sauce, tomato sauce, or any other preferred flavoring, and let the meat warm up gradually without boiling, or it will toughen. To properly hash meat, place it in cold gravy and only heat just long enough to warm through.
Time.—1-1/2 hour to simmer the gravy.
Time.—1.5 hours to simmer the sauce.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Available year-round.
HASHED MUTTON.—Many persons express a decided aversion to hashed mutton; and, doubtless, this dislike has arisen from the fact that they have unfortunately never been properly served with this dish. If properly done, however, the meat tender (it ought to be as tender as when first roasted), the gravy abundant and well flavoured, and the sippets nicely toasted, and the whole served neatly; then, hashed mutton is by no means to be despised, and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than the cold leg or shoulder, of which fathers and husbands, and their bachelor friends, stand in such natural awe.
HASHED MUTTON.—Many people have a strong dislike for hashed mutton, and this aversion likely comes from the fact that they haven't had it served correctly. When done right, the meat should be as tender as when it was first roasted, the gravy should be plentiful and flavorful, the bread pieces should be nicely toasted, and everything should be presented well; in that case, hashed mutton is definitely worth appreciating and is much healthier and more appealing than the cold leg or shoulder that fathers, husbands, and their bachelor friends often fear.
HODGE-PODGE (Cold Meat Cookery).
Random Meat Dish.
720. INGREDIENTS.—About 1 lb. of underdone cold mutton, 2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of water.
720. INGREDIENTS.—About 1 lb. of slightly undercooked cold mutton, 2 heads of lettuce, 1 pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 cup of water.
Mode.—Mince the mutton, and cut up the lettuces and onions in slices. Put these in a stewpan, with all the ingredients except the peas, and let these simmer very gently for 3/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. Boil the peas separately, mix these with the mutton, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Chop the mutton and slice the lettuces and onions. Place these in a saucepan along with all the ingredients except the peas, and let them simmer gently for 45 minutes, stirring well. Boil the peas separately, mix them with the mutton, and serve hot.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Time.—45 minutes.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Good for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from the end of May to August.
In season from the end of May to August.
IRISH STEW.
I.
721. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of the loin or neck of mutton, 5 lbs. of potatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water.
721. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of mutton loin or neck, 5 lbs. of potatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, a little more than 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or neck of mutton, and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. Pare and halve the potatoes, and cut the onions into thick slices. Put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, then a layer of mutton and onions, and season with pepper and salt; proceed in this manner until the stewpan is full, taking care to have plenty of vegetables at the top. Pour in the water, and let it stew very gently for 2-1/2 hours, keeping the lid of the stewpan closely shut the whole time, and occasionally shaking it to prevent its burning.
Mode.—Trim some of the fat off the specified amount of mutton loin or neck, and cut it into moderately thick chops. Peel and cut the potatoes in half, and slice the onions thickly. Place a layer of potatoes at the bottom of a stew pot, then add a layer of mutton and onions, seasoning with pepper and salt; continue layering until the pot is full, ensuring there are plenty of vegetables on top. Pour in the water, and let it simmer gently for 2.5 hours, keeping the lid of the pot tightly closed the entire time, and occasionally shaking it to prevent burning.
Time.—2-1/2 hours.
Duration.—2.5 hours.
Average cost, for this quantity, 2s. 8d.
Average cost, for this quantity, £0.13.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—More suitable for a winter dish.
Seasonable.—Better suited for a winter meal.
II.
722. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 lbs. of the breast of mutton, 1-1/2 pint of water, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large onions.
722. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 lbs. of mutton breast, 1.5 pints of water, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large onions.
Mode.—Put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little salt, and let it stew gently for an hour; cut the meat into small pieces, skim the fat from the gravy, and pare and slice the potatoes and onions. Put all the ingredients into the stewpan in layers, first a layer of vegetables, then one of meat, and sprinkle seasoning of pepper and salt between each layer; cover closely, and let the whole stew very gently for 1 hour of rather more, shaking it frequently to prevent its burning.
Mode.—Place the mutton in a saucepan with water and a pinch of salt, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Cut the meat into small pieces, skim off the fat from the gravy, and peel and slice the potatoes and onions. Layer all the ingredients in the saucepan, starting with a layer of vegetables, then a layer of meat, and sprinkle pepper and salt between each layer. Cover it tightly and let it simmer gently for about an hour or a little longer, shaking it often to prevent it from burning.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 1s, 6d.
Time.—Just over 2 hours. Average cost, 1.5.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Suitable for a winter dish.
Seasonal.—Great for a winter dish.
Note.—Irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above, but baked in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or rather more in a moderate oven will be sufficient time to bake it.
Note.—Irish stew can be made the same way as mentioned above, but baked in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or a bit longer in a moderate oven will be enough time to bake it.
ITALIAN MUTTON CUTLETS.
723. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the neck of mutton, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy, 2 teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.
723. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of mutton neck, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoons of breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoon of chopped savory herbs, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon of minced shallot, 1 saltspoon of finely chopped lemon peel; pepper, salt, and ground mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water, 2 teaspoons of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoon of soy sauce, 2 teaspoons of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoon of port wine.
Mode.—Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them, and trim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then, into the beaten yolk of an egg. Mix well together bread crumbs, herbs, parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above proportion, and cover the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt some butter in a frying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take them, out, and keep them hot before the fire. Dredge some flour into the pan, and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more; stir till it looks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remaining ingredients; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets. If the gravy should not be thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms, when obtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not in season, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them.
Method.—Cut the mutton into nicely shaped cutlets, flatten them, and trim off some of the fat. Dip them in clarified butter and then in the beaten yolk of an egg. Mix together breadcrumbs, herbs, parsley, shallot, lemon peel, and seasoning in the mentioned proportions, and cover the cutlets with this mixture. Melt some butter in a frying pan, place the cutlets in, and fry them until they are a nice brown. Take them out and keep them warm by the fire. Sprinkle some flour into the pan, and if there isn't enough butter, add a little more; stir until it looks brown, then pour in hot broth or water along with the remaining ingredients; bring to a boil, and pour around the cutlets. If the gravy isn’t thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms, when available, greatly enhance this dish, and when they’re out of season, mushroom powder can be used as a substitute.
Time.—10 minutes;—rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick.
Time.—10 minutes;—a little longer if the cutlets are very thick.
Average cost, 2s. 9d.
Average cost, 2s. 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Available anytime.
THE DOWNS.—The well-known substance chalk, which the chemist regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime, and the microscopist as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals, forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of England. The chalk-hills known as the South Downs start from the bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey. The North Downs extend from Godalming, by Godstone, into Kent, and terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to Ramsgate. The Downs are clothed with short verdant turf; but the layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support trees and shrubs. The hills have rounded summits, and their smooth, undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral monuments of the early inhabitants of the country. The coombes and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets. From time immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these downs. The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious; and whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land, is eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep, the arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords the means of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of the hills fails. The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its fineness; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported from England into the West Indies, become miserably lean in the course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece gives place to a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair.
THE DOWNS.—Chalk, a well-known substance that chemists see as nearly pure carbonate of lime and microscopists view as a collection of incredibly tiny shells and corals, makes up the subsoil of the hilly regions in southeast England. The chalk hills called the South Downs start at the striking promontory of Beachy Head, stretch across Sussex from east to west, and continue through Hampshire into Surrey. The North Downs extend from Godalming, through Godstone, into Kent, ending in a line of cliffs that runs from Dover to Ramsgate. The Downs are covered with short, green grass, but the thin layer of soil on top of the chalk isn’t enough to support trees and shrubs. The hills have rounded tops, and their smooth, rolling shapes are mostly uninterrupted except for the burial mounds of the region’s ancient inhabitants. The coombes and furrows that branch out into deep valleys look like dried-up riverbeds. For centuries, large flocks of sheep have been raised on these downs. The grass on these hills is very nutritious, and the naturally healthy climate, thanks to the dry air and moderate elevation of the land, is perfect for producing a superior breed of sheep. Additionally, the farmland nearby provides other food sources when the hills' natural offerings fall short. South-Down sheep are prized for their tender meat and fine wool; however, the best examples of this breed, when shipped from England to the West Indies, tend to get very thin over a year or two, and their fluffy fleece is replaced by a short, crisp, brownish coat.
BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish).
BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Dinner Dish).
724. INGREDIENTS.—Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste.
724. INGREDIENTS.—Sheep kidneys, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open very evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried, but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire, placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side, and cook them on the other. Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very hot plates to table.
Mode.—Make sure the kidneys are fresh, then slice them open evenly lengthwise down to the root. If one side is thicker than the other, one will be undercooked while the other gets dried out, so don’t separate them. Remove the skin, and slide a skewer under the white part of each half to keep them flat. Broil them over a nice, clear fire with the inside facing down. Once one side is done enough, turn them over and cook the other side. Take out the skewers, place the kidneys on a very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and add a tiny piece of butter in the center of each. Serve very hot and quickly, and make sure to send very hot plates to the table.
Time.—6 to 8 minutes.
Duration.—6 to 8 minutes.
Average cost, 1-1/2d. each.
Average cost, 1.5p each.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 for each person.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 per person.
Seasonable at any time.
Relevant at any time.
Note.—A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape. In this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.
Note.—A nicer dish than the one above can be made by serving the kidneys on a slice of buttered toast in any creative shape. In this case, a bit of lemon juice will enhance the flavor.
[Illustration: KIDNEYS.]
[Illustration: KIDNEYS.]
FRIED KIDNEYS.
725. INGREDIENTS.—Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste.
725. INGREDIENTS.—Kidneys, butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done. Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Cut the kidneys open without completely separating them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying pan. When the butter has melted, place the kidneys in the pan with the flat side down and fry them for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them halfway through. Serve them on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and add a small piece of butter to each kidney; pour the pan gravy over them, and serve very hot.
Time.—7 or 8 minutes.
Duration.—7 or 8 minutes.
Average cost, 1-1/2d. each.
Average cost, 1.5d. each.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 kidney to each person.
Sufficient.—Give 1 kidney to each person.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: Mutton Haunch.]
726. INGREDIENTS.—Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour.
726. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of lamb, a bit of salt, flour.
Mode.—Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the flies, and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, the joint, when it comes to table, will neither do credit to the butcher or the cook, as it will not be tender. Wash the outside well, lest it should have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down to a nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warm through. Keep continually basting, and about 1/2 hour before it is served, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Place a paper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a tureen to table with it.
Mode.—Let the joint hang for as long as possible without spoiling, and while it’s hanging, dust it with flour. This keeps flies away and prevents air from getting to it. If it’s not hung properly, the joint will disappoint both the butcher and the cook when served, as it won’t be tender. Clean the outside well to avoid any bad taste from storage; then flour it and place it by a nice, brisk fire at a distance so it warms up gradually. Keep basting continually and about half an hour before serving, move it closer to the fire to get a nice brown color. Sprinkle a bit of fine salt on the meat, pour off the drippings, add a little boiling water with a touch of salt, and strain this over the joint. Put a paper frill on the bone, and serve red-currant jelly and gravy in a tureen alongside it.
Time.—About 4 hours.
Duration.—About 4 hours.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10d per lb.
Sufficient for 8 to 10 persons.
Enough for 8 to 10 people.
Seasonable.—In best season from September to March.
Seasonable.—In the best season from September to March.
HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY.—If the housekeeper is not very particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it. It often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a superfluity of certain joints, and these he would be glad to get rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as 1d. or 1-1/2d. per lb., and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs., will be saved enough to buy 2 quartern loaves. It frequently happens with many butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of mutton, they have only shoulders left, and these they will be glad to sell at a reduction.
HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY.—If the person in charge of the household isn’t very particular about the specific cuts of meat to cook for dinner, there are often chances to save enough money on meat purchases to cover the cost of bread to go with it. For example, butchers sometimes have an excess of certain cuts and are often willing to sell them at a discount of up to 1p or 1.5p per pound. This means that with a cut weighing 8 or 9 pounds, you could save enough to buy 2 one-pound loaves. Many butchers find that due to high demand for legs and loins of mutton, they often only have shoulders left, which they’re eager to sell at a discount.
ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: MUTTON LEG.]
727. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of mutton, a little salt.
727. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of lamb, a little salt.
Mode.—As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almost as long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for a few days, if the weather will permit. Wash off the flour, wipe it very dry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire, dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to get nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour off the dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over the joint, and serve.
Mode.—Since mutton is never tender when it’s freshly killed, hang it for as long as possible while it stays fresh; dust it with flour and place it in a cool, airy spot for a few days, if the weather allows. Rinse off the flour, pat it very dry, and remove the shank bone. Place it over a brisk, clear fire, sprinkle it with flour, and keep basting it the entire time it cooks. About 20 minutes before serving, bring it closer to the fire to get a nice brown color; sprinkle a little salt over it, plate the meat, pour off the drippings, add some boiling water with a bit of salt, strain it over the joint, and serve.
Time.—A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs., about 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 hours; one of 7 lbs., about 2 hours, or rather less.
Time.—A 10 lb. leg of mutton takes about 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; a 7 lb. leg takes about 2 hours, or maybe a bit less.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5d. per lb.
Sufficient.—A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Sufficient.—A medium-sized leg of mutton that's enough for 6 to 8 people.
Seasonable at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August.
Good to use at any time, but not as effective in June, July, and August.
ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON.
728. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of mutton, a little salt.
728. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of mutton, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcher joints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the carver, when it comes to table. Have ready a nice clear fire (it need not be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, and baste well until it is done. Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Trim off any excess fat and ensure the butcher cuts the meat correctly, as this will save the carver a lot of hassle when it's time to serve. Prepare a nice, clear fire (it doesn't need to be very big), place the meat on, sprinkle it with flour, and baste it well until it’s cooked. Make the gravy similar to how you would for a roast leg of mutton, and serve it very hot.
[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: Lamb loin.]
Time.—A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer.
Time.—A 6 lb. loin of mutton, about 1.5 hours, or a little longer.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Average cost, 8.5 pence per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Excellent).
ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Good).
729. INGREDIENTS.—About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of mace, 1/4 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
729. INGREDIENTS.—About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 1/4 teaspoon of ground allspice, 1/4 teaspoon of mace, 1/4 teaspoon of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, all of which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day, then make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind it up firmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in the gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. Now take out the meat, unbind it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pour over the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a few mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a great improvement.
Mode.—Hang the mutton until it's tender, remove the bones, and sprinkle it with pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the same proportions, all of which should be ground very fine. Let it sit for a day, then make a forcemeat using recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind it tightly. Partially bake it in a slow oven, let it cool, remove the fat, and place the gravy into a saucepan; dust the meat with flour, add it to the gravy, and simmer until it’s completely tender. Now remove the meat, unbind it, add wine and ketchup to the gravy as mentioned earlier, bring it to a boil, and pour it over the meat. Serve with red-currant jelly; and if possible, a few mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy will enhance the dish greatly.
Time.—1-1/2 hour to bake the meat, 1-1/2 hour to stew gently.
Time.—1.5 hours to bake the meat, 1.5 hours to simmer gently.
Average cost, 4s. 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Average cost, £0.24. Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as here directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and served with a good gravy and currant jelly.
Note.—This joint will turn out really great if you roll and stuff it as directed, and roast it simply. It should be well basted and served with a good gravy and currant jelly.
BOILED NECK OF MUTTON.
730. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of the middle, or best end of the neck of mutton; a little salt.
730. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of the middle, or best part of the neck of mutton; a bit of salt.
Mode.—Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and if it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, the ribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; this is, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient boiling water to cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so cool that the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very slowly and gently until the meat is done, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour, or rather more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer.
Mode.—Trim off any excess fat. If you want it to look especially nice, you should saw down the chine-bone, strip the ribs halfway down, and chop off the ends of the bones; but this isn't necessary. Place the meat in enough boiling water to cover it. When it starts to boil, add a little salt and skim off any scum that forms. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire and allow the water to cool until you can comfortably dip your finger in it; then let it simmer very slowly and gently until the meat is cooked, which should take about 1.5 hours or a bit longer, starting from when it begins to simmer.
Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of it over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, when at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement. These, however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces, or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready. Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round the mutton.
Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and drizzle a little over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, when available, a few carrots will also enhance the dish. However, if they are very large and thick, they must be cut into long, thin pieces, or they won't be cooked through by the time the mutton is ready. Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips arranged alternately around the mutton.
Time.—4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, about 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—4 lbs. of mutton neck, about 1-1/2 hours.
Average cost, 8-1/2 d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5 p per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
THE POETS ON SHEEP.—The keeping of flocks seems to have been the first employment of mankind; and the most ancient sort of poetry was probably pastoral. The poem known as the Pastoral gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the golden age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in singing. In all pastorals, repeated allusions are made to the "fleecy flocks," the "milk-white lambs," and "the tender ewes;" indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only to that of the shepherds who tend them. The "nibbling sheep" has ever been a favourite of the poets, and has supplied them with figures and similes without end. Shakspere frequently compares men to sheep. When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the side of Henry VI., the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness;—
THE POETS ON SHEEP.—Taking care of flocks seems to have been humanity's first job, and the earliest form of poetry was likely pastoral. The poem known as the Pastoral paints a picture of the simple life of shepherds during the golden age, who are thought to have spent their time singing. In all pastorals, there are repeated mentions of the "fleecy flocks," the "milk-white lambs," and "the tender ewes;" indeed, sheep hold a place in these poems second only to the shepherds who look after them. The "nibbling sheep" has always been a favorite among poets, providing them with endless figures and similes. Shakespeare often compares men to sheep. When Gloster harshly drives the lieutenant away from Henry VI.'s side, the poor king poignantly expresses his vulnerability;—
"So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf:
So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece,
And next his throat, unto the butcher's knife."
"So runs the careless shepherd from the wolf:
First, the innocent sheep gives up its fleece,
And then its life, to the butcher's knife."
In the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we meet with the following
humorous comparison:—
In "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we come across the following
humorous comparison:—
"Proteus. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the shepherd for food follows not the sheep: thou for wages followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee; therefore, thou art a sheep.
"Proteus. The sheep follow the shepherd to get fed, but the shepherd doesn't follow the sheep for food; you follow your boss for a paycheck, but your boss doesn't follow you for a paycheck; so, you are just like a sheep."
"Speed. Such another proof will make me cry baa."
"Speed. That kind of proof will make me cry baa."
The descriptive poets give us some charming pictures of sheep.
Every one is familiar with the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson's
"Seasons:"—
The descriptive poets provide us with some delightful images of sheep.
Everyone knows the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson's
"Seasons:"—
"Heavy and dripping, to the breezy brow
Slow move the harmless race; where, as they spread
Their dwelling treasures to the sunny ray,
Inly disturb'd, and wond'ring what this wild
Outrageous tumult means, their loud complaints
The country fill; and, toss'd from rock to rock,
Incessant bleatings run around the hills."
"Heavy and dripping, on the breezy hilltop
Slowly move the harmless creatures; as they spread
Their treasures out in the sunlight,
Deeply disturbed and wondering what this wild
Outrageous noise is about, their loud complaints
Fill the countryside; and tossed from rock to rock,
Endless bleatings echo around the hills."
What an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the
oft-quoted line from Gray's "Elegy:"—
What a beautiful idea of stillness is expressed in the
often-quoted line from Gray's "Elegy:"—
"And drowsy tinklings lull the distant fold."
"And sleepy sounds soothe the faraway flock."
From Dyer's quaint poem of "The Fleece" we could cull a hundred passages relating to sheep; but we have already exceeded our space. We cannot, however, close this brief notice of the allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets, without quoting a couple of verses from Robert Burns's "Elegy on Poor Mailie," his only "pet yowe:"—
From Dyer's charming poem "The Fleece," we could pick out a hundred lines about sheep, but we've already gone over our limit. However, we can't wrap up this short overview of how our poets have referenced sheep without quoting a few lines from Robert Burns's "Elegy on Poor Mailie," his only "pet yowe:"—
"Thro' a' the town she troll'd by him;
A lang half-mile she could descry him;
Wi' kindly bleat, when she did spy him.
She ran wi' speed;
A friend mair faithfu' ne'er cam' nigh him
Than Mailie dead.
"Through the whole town, she trotted by him;
A long half-mile, she could see him;
With a friendly bleat when she spotted him.
She ran with speed;
A more faithful friend never came close to him
Than Mailie dead.
"I wat she was a sheep o' sense.
An' could behave hersel' wi' mense;
I'll say't, she never brak a fence,
Thro' thievish greed.
Our bardie, lanely, keeps the spence,
Sin' Mailie's dead."
"I wish she was a sensible sheep.
And could conduct herself with grace;
I'll say it, she never broke a fence,
Through greedy thievery.
Our little bard, lonely, watches the pantry,
Since Mailie's gone."
MUTTON COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).
Mutton Collops (Cold Meat Recipes).
731. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs minced very fine, 2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
731. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold leg or loin of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, 1 blade of ground mace, 1 small bunch of finely minced savory herbs, 2 or 3 shallots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—Cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a loin of mutton; sprinkle them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, minced savoury herbs, and minced shalot; fry them in butter, stir in a dessertspoonful of flour, add the gravy and lemon-juice, simmer very gently about 5 or 7 minutes, and serve immediately.
Mode.—Slice some very thin pieces from a leg or the chump end of a loin of mutton; season them with pepper, salt, ground mace, chopped savory herbs, and chopped shallots; fry them in butter, mix in a dessert spoonful of flour, add the gravy and lemon juice, simmer gently for about 5 to 7 minutes, and serve right away.
Time.—5 to 7 minutes.
Time.—5 to 7 min.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable anytime.
[Illustration: MUTTON CUTLETS.]
[Mutton Cutlets Illustration.]
MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES.
732. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the best end of the neck of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes.
732. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the finest neck of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes.
Mode.—Procure a well-hung neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches of the top of the bones, and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness. Shape them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone; beat them flat with a cutlet-chopper, and scrape quite clean, a portion of the top of the bone. Broil them over a nice clear fire for about 7 or 8 minutes, and turn them frequently. Have ready some smoothly-mashed white potatoes; place these in the middle of the dish; when the cutlets are done, season with pepper and salt; arrange them round the potatoes, with the thick end of the cutlets downwards, and serve very hot and quickly. (See Coloured Plate.)
Mode.—Get a well-trimmed neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches from the top of the bones, and cut the cutlets to a moderate thickness. Shape them by removing the thick part of the chine-bone; flatten them using a cutlet chopper and scrape the top of the bone clean. Grill them over a nice, clear fire for about 7 or 8 minutes, turning them frequently. Have some smooth, mashed white potatoes ready; place these in the center of the dish. Once the cutlets are done, season them with pepper and salt; arrange them around the potatoes with the thicker end of the cutlets facing down, and serve very hot and quickly. (See Coloured Plate.)
Time.—7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, 2s. 4d.
Time.—7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, £0.12.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
Note.—Cutlets may be served in various ways; with peas, tomatoes, onions, sauce piquante, &c.
Note.—Cutlets can be served in different ways; with peas, tomatoes, onions, spicy sauce, etc.
MUTTON PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).
Mutton Pie (Cold Meat Cooking).
733. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs; when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy; crust.
733. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers from a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of ground mace, 1 dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savory herbs; if desired, a small amount of minced onion or shallot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacup of gravy; crust.
Mode.—Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasoned and mixed with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut it into very thin slices; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at the bottom of the dish; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs; then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on till the dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1 hour.
Mode.—You can make delicious pies from cold mutton if it's seasoned well and mixed with a few herbs; for the leg, cut it into very thin slices; for the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Put some at the bottom of the dish; season generously with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs; then add a layer of sliced potatoes, followed by more mutton, and continue layering until the dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1 hour.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable at any time.
Note.—The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into a very good family pudding, by cutting the meat into slices, and putting them into a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be seasoned well with pepper, salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiled for about 3 hours.
Note.—Leftover undercooked leg of mutton can be turned into a delicious family pudding by slicing the meat and placing it in a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be well-seasoned with pepper, salt, and minced shallot, covered with a crust, and boiled for about 3 hours.
MUTTON PIE.
734. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of gravy or water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley; when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; puff crust.
734. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of boneless neck or loin of mutton; 2 kidneys; salt and pepper to taste; 2 teacupfuls of gravy or water; 2 tablespoons of minced parsley; optionally, a bit of minced onion or shallot; puff pastry.
Mode.—Bone the mutton, and cut the meat into steaks all of the same thickness, and leave but very little fat. Cut up the kidneys, and arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; sprinkle over them the minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and cover with a tolerably good puff crust. Bake for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be rather brisk. A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust, and will be found exceedingly good.
Mode.—Remove the bones from the mutton and cut the meat into steaks of equal thickness, leaving very little fat. Cut up the kidneys and arrange them neatly with the meat in a pie dish; sprinkle minced parsley and season with pepper and salt; pour in the gravy and cover with a decent puff pastry. Bake for 1.5 hours, or longer if the pie is very large, and keep the oven fairly hot. A well-made suet crust can be used instead of puff pastry and is also very good.
Time.—1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. Average cost, 2s.
Time.—1.5 hours, or a bit longer. Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient for 6 or 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
MUTTON PUDDING.
735. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of the chump end of the loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each pound of flour; a very small quantity of minced onion (this may be omitted when the flavour is not liked).
735. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of the chump end of the loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each pound of flour; a very small amount of minced onion (this can be left out if the flavor isn't preferred).
Mode.—Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them with pepper and salt; line the pudding-dish with crust; lay in the meat, and nearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water; when the flavour is liked, add a small quantity of minced onion; cover with crust, and proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 605, using the same kind of pudding-dish as there mentioned.
Mode.—Slice the meat into thin pieces and season them with salt and pepper. Line the pudding dish with crust, add the meat, and almost fill it with water without overflowing. When the flavor is to your liking, mix in a small amount of minced onion. Cover with crust and continue as instructed in recipe No. 605, using the same type of pudding dish as mentioned there.
Time.—About 3 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Duration.—About 3 hours. Average cost, £1.45.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Fits 6 people.
Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.
Good all year round, but best in winter.
RAGOUT OF COLD NECK OF MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).
RAGOUT OF COLD NECK OF MUTTON (Cold Meat Cooking).
736. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, 1/4 pint of water, 2 small carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste.
736. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz. of butter, a bit of flour, 2 sliced onions, 1/4 pint of water, 2 small carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater portion of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown; then put in the meat. When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots and turnips, which should be cut into very thin slices; season with pepper and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour. When in season, green peas may be substituted for the carrots and turnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and the chops laid round.
Method.—Cut the mutton into small chops and trim off most of the fat. Put the butter in a saucepan, sprinkle in a little flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring until they're brown. Then add the meat. Once the meat is nicely browned, add water, along with the carrots and turnips, which should be sliced very thin. Season with pepper and salt, and let it stew until it's really tender, which will take about 45 minutes. When in season, you can substitute green peas for the carrots and turnips; they should be piled in the center of the dish, with the chops arranged around them.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable, with peas, from June to August.
In season, with peas, from June to August.
ROAST NECK OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: NECK OF MUTTON 1-2. Best end. 2-3. Scrag.]
[Illustration: NECK OF MUTTON 1-2. Best end. 2-3. Scrag.]
737. INGREDIENTS.—Neck of mutton; a little salt.
737. INGREDIENTS.—Mutton neck; a bit of salt.
Mode.—For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neck of mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off some of it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be found exceedingly good. Let the bones be cut short and see that it is properly jointed before it is laid down to the fire, as they will be more easily separated when they come to table. Place the joint at a nice brisk fire, dredge it with flour, and keep continually basting until done. A few minutes before serving, draw it nearer the the fire to acquire a nice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted, strain this over the meat and serve. Red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it.
Mode.—For roasting, pick the middle, or the best part, of the neck of mutton. If there's a lot of fat, trim some off and save it for making suet puddings, which are really tasty. Make sure the bones are cut short and that it's properly jointed before putting it over the fire, as they will be easier to separate when it’s time to serve. Place the joint over a nice, hot fire, dust it with flour, and keep basting it until it’s done. A few minutes before serving, move it closer to the fire to get a nice color, sprinkle a little salt on it, pour off the drippings, add a bit of boiling water that’s lightly salted, strain this over the meat, and serve. Red-currant jelly can be served with it.
Time.—4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour.
Time.—4 lbs. of mutton neck, just over 1 hour.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 8.5p per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES.—The distinction between hair and wool is rather arbitrary than natural, consisting in the greater or less degrees of fineness, softness and pliability of the fibres. When the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of their being spun and woven into a texture sufficiently pliable to be used as an article of dress, they are called wool. The sheep, llama, Angora goat, and the goat of Thibet, are the animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is obtained. The finest of all wools is that from the goat of Thibet, of which the Cashmere shawls are made. Of European wools, the finest is that yielded by the Merino sheep, the Spanish and Saxon breeds taking the precedence. The Merino sheep, as now naturalized in Australia, furnishes an excellent fleece; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared either in Europe or Australia are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in India, and to that of the llama of the Andes. The best of our British wools are inferior in fineness to any of the above-mentioned, being nearly twelve times the thickness of the finest Spanish merino; but for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer, they are unrivalled.
WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES.—The difference between hair and wool is more about convention than biology, relating to how fine, soft, and flexible the fibers are. When the fibers have these qualities enough to be spun and woven into a fabric that's soft enough for clothing, they are called wool. The main sources of wool used in manufacturing are sheep, llamas, Angora goats, and Tibetan goats. The finest wool comes from Tibetan goats, which is used to make Cashmere shawls. Among European wools, the softest comes from Merino sheep, particularly the Spanish and Saxon breeds. Australian Merino sheep produce excellent fleece, but all types of sheep wool from Europe or Australia feel less soft than the wool from India or the llama from the Andes. The best British wools aren't as fine as any of these options, being nearly twelve times thicker than the finest Spanish Merino; however, they are unmatched for common manufacturing needs.
ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: MUTTON SADDLE.]
738. INGREDIENTS.—Saddle of mutton; a little salt.
738. INGREDIENTS.—Saddle of mutton; a pinch of salt.
Mode.—To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten days or a fortnight, if the weather permits. Cut off the tail and flaps and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and have the skin taken off and skewered on again. Put it down to a bright, clear fire, and, when the joint has been cooking for an hour, remove the skin and dredge it with flour. It should not be placed too near the fire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt. Keep constantly basting, both before and after the skin is removed; sprinkle some salt over the joint. Make a little gravy in the dripping-pan; pour it over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made gravy and red-currant jelly.
Mode.—To make sure this joint is tender, let it hang for ten days or two weeks, if the weather allows. Cut off the tail and flaps, and trim away any parts that aren't definitely meant to be eaten, then have the skin removed and skewered back on. Place it over a bright, clear fire, and after the joint has been cooking for an hour, take off the skin and sprinkle it with flour. Don't position it too close to the fire, as the fat should not be burnt at all. Keep basting constantly, both before and after removing the skin; sprinkle some salt over the joint. Make a little gravy in the dripping pan; pour it over the meat, which should be served with a tureen of gravy and red-currant jelly.
Time.—A saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs., 2-1/2 hours; 14 lbs., 3-1/4 hours. When liked underdone, allow rather less time.
Time.—A 10 lb. saddle of mutton takes about 2.5 hours; a 14 lb. saddle takes around 3.25 hours. If you prefer it a bit undercooked, reduce the cooking time slightly.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10p. per lb.
Sufficient.—A moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.
Sufficient.—A medium-sized saddle weighing 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable all the year; not so good when lamb is in full season.
Good all year round; not as great when lamb is in full season.
ROAST SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
739. INGREDIENTS.—Shoulder of mutton; a little salt.
739. INGREDIENTS.—Shoulder of lamb; a little salt.
Mode.—Put the joint down to a bright, clear fire; flour it well, and keep continually basting. About 1/4 hour before serving, draw it near the fire, that the outside may acquire a nice brown colour, but not sufficiently near to blacken the fat. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents, pour in a little boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Onion sauce, or stewed Spanish onions, are usually sent to table with this dish, and sometimes baked potatoes.
Mode.—Place the joint in front of a bright, clear fire; coat it with flour, and keep basting it continuously. About 15 minutes before serving, move it closer to the fire so the outside can achieve a nice brown color, but not so close that the fat burns. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, empty the dripping pan, add a bit of boiling water that’s lightly salted, and strain this over the joint. Onion sauce or stewed Spanish onions are typically served with this dish, along with baked potatoes.
Time.—A shoulder of mutton weighing 6 or 7 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—A 6 to 7 lb. shoulder of mutton, 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
Note.—Shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways; boiled, and served with onion sauce; boned, and stuffed with a good veal forcemeat; or baked, with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan.
Note.—Shoulder of mutton can be prepared in several ways: boiled and served with onion sauce; boned and filled with a good veal stuffing; or baked with sliced potatoes in the roasting pan.
THE ETTRICK SHEPHERD.—James Hogg was perhaps the most remarkable man that ever wore the maud of a shepherd. Under the garb, aspect, and bearing of a rude peasant (and rude enough he was in most of these things, even after no inconsiderable experience of society), the world soon discovered a true poet. He taught himself to write, by copying the letters of a printed book as he lay watching his flock on the hillside, and believed that he had reached the utmost pitch of his ambition when he first found that his artless rhymes could touch the heart of the ewe-milker who partook the shelter of his mantle during the passing storm. If "the shepherd" of Professor Wilson's "Noctes Ambrosianae" may be taken as a true portrait of James Hogg, we must admit that, for quaintness of humour, the poet of Ettrick Forest had few rivals. Sir Walter Scott said that Hogg's thousand little touches of absurdity afforded him more entertainment than the best comedy that ever set the pit in a roar. Among the written productions of the shepherd-poet, is an account of his own experiences in sheep-tending, called "The Shepherd's Calender." This work contains a vast amount of useful information upon sheep, their diseases, habits, and management. The Ettrick Shepherd died in 1835.
THE ETTRICK SHEPHERD.—James Hogg was probably the most remarkable person to ever wear the garb of a shepherd. Under the appearance and demeanor of a rough peasant (and he was quite rough in many ways, even after considerable experience with society), the world soon recognized a true poet. He taught himself to write by copying the letters from a printed book while watching his flock on the hillside, and he felt he had achieved the pinnacle of his dreams when he first realized that his simple rhymes could touch the heart of the ewe-milker who shared his shelter during a passing storm. If "the shepherd" in Professor Wilson's "Noctes Ambrosianae" is an accurate portrayal of James Hogg, we must acknowledge that, for unique humor, the poet of Ettrick Forest had few equals. Sir Walter Scott noted that Hogg's many little touches of absurdity gave him more enjoyment than the best comedy that ever had the audience roaring with laughter. Among the written works of the shepherd-poet is an account of his own experiences in sheep-tending, called "The Shepherd's Calendar." This work contains a wealth of useful information about sheep, their diseases, habits, and management. The Ettrick Shepherd died in 1835.
SHEEP'S BRAINS, EN MATELOTE (an Entree).
SHEEP'S BRAINS, IN MATELOTE (an Entree).
740. INGREDIENTS.—6 sheep's brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of bacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient stock or weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, matelote sauce, No. 512.
740. INGREDIENTS.—6 sheep's brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of bacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, enough stock or weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, matelote sauce, No. 512.
Mode.—Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them, and put them into a pan of warm water; remove the skin, and let them remain for two hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegar and salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm, take them out and put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in a stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper and salt; cover with stock, or weak broth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have ready some croûtons; arrange these in the dish alternately with the brains, and cover with a matelote sauce, No. 512, to which has been added the above proportion of lemon-juice.
Mode.—Carefully remove the brains from the heads without breaking them and place them in a pan of warm water; peel off the skin and let them soak for two hours. Prepare a saucepan of boiling water, adding a little vinegar and salt, then immerse the brains. Once they are firm, take them out and transfer them to very cold water. In a stewpan, lay down 2 or 3 slices of bacon, add the brains, an onion studded with 2 cloves, parsley, and a good amount of pepper and salt; cover with stock or weak broth, and simmer gently for about 25 minutes. Prepare some croûtons; arrange them in the dish alternately with the brains, and top with matelote sauce, No. 512, enhanced with the mentioned amount of lemon juice.
Time.—25 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration: 25 minutes. Average cost: 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Fits 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
SHEEP'S FEET or TROTTERS (Soyer's Recipe).
SHEEP'S FEET or TROTTERS (Soyer's Recipe).
741. INGREDIENTS.—12 feet, 1/4 lb. of beef or mutton suet, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 2 bay-leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, 1/4 oz. of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2-1/2 quarts of water, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3/4 teaspoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 gill of milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.
741. INGREDIENTS.—12 feet, 1/4 lb. of beef or mutton fat, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, 1/4 oz. of pepper, 2 tablespoons of flour, 2-1/2 quarts of water, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of flour, 3/4 teaspoon of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 gill of milk, and the yolks of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Have the feet cleaned, and the long bone extracted from them. Put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced, the bay-leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these simmer for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and the water, and keep stirring till it boils; then put in the feet. Let these simmer for 3 hours, or until perfectly tender, and take them and lay them on a sieve. Mix together, on a plate, with the back of a spoon, butter, salt, flour (1 teaspoonful), pepper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, and put the feet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan. When very hot, add the butter, &c., and stir continually till melted. Now mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 5 tablespoonfuls of milk; stir this to the other ingredients, keep moving the pan over the fire continually for a minute or two, but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. Serve in a very hot dish, and garnish with croûtons, or sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Clean the feet and remove the long bone from them. Place the suet in a saucepan along with the sliced onions and carrot, bay leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of flour and water, stirring until it boils; then add the feet. Allow these to simmer for 3 hours, or until they are completely tender, then remove them and place on a sieve. On a plate, mix together with the back of a spoon butter, salt, 1 teaspoon of flour, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon juice as mentioned above, and put the feet along with a gill of milk in a saucepan. When it’s very hot, add the butter mixture and stir continuously until melted. Now mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 5 tablespoons of milk; stir this into the other ingredients, keeping the pan moving over the heat for a minute or two, but do not allow it to boil after adding the eggs. Serve in a very hot dish, garnished with croûtons or pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration: 3 hours. Average cost: 1.5 shillings.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
TO DRESS A SHEEP'S HEAD.
742. INGREDIENTS.—1 sheep's head, sufficient water to cover it, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small bunch of parsley, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/4 lb. of Scotch oatmeal.
742. INGREDIENTS.—1 sheep's head, enough water to cover it, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small bunch of parsley, 1 teaspoon of pepper, 3 teaspoons of salt, 1/4 lb. of Scotch oatmeal.
Mode.—Clean the head well, and let it soak in warm water for 2 hours, to get rid of the blood; put it into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it boils, add the vegetables, peeled and sliced, and the remaining ingredients; before adding the oatmeal, mix it to a smooth batter with a little of the liquor. Keep stirring till it boils up; then shut the saucepan closely, and let it stew gently for 1-1/2 or 2 hours. It may be thickened with rice or barley, but oatmeal is preferable.
Mode.—Thoroughly clean the head and let it soak in warm water for 2 hours to remove the blood. Place it in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover it, and when it starts to boil, add the vegetables, peeled and sliced, along with the remaining ingredients. Before adding the oatmeal, mix it into a smooth batter with a little of the liquid. Keep stirring until it comes to a boil; then cover the saucepan tightly and let it simmer gently for 1-1/2 to 2 hours. It can be thickened with rice or barley, but oatmeal is the better option.
Time.—1-1/2 or 2 hours. Average cost, 8d. each.
Time—1.5 to 2 hours. Average cost, 8d. each.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Good for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SINGED SHEEP'S HEAD.—The village of Dudingston, which stands "within a mile of Edinburgh town," was formerly celebrated for this ancient and homely Scottish dish. In the summer months, many opulent citizens used to resort to this place to solace themselves over singed sheep's heads, boiled or baked. The sheep fed upon the neighbouring hills were slaughtered at this village, and the carcases were sent to town; but the heads were left to be consumed in the place. We are not aware whether the custom of eating sheep's heads at Dudingston is still kept up by the good folks of Edinburgh.
SINGED SHEEP'S HEAD.—The village of Duddingston, located "within a mile of Edinburgh," used to be famous for this traditional Scottish dish. In the summer months, many wealthy residents would come here to enjoy singed sheep's heads, either boiled or baked. The sheep that grazed on the nearby hills were slaughtered in this village, and the bodies were sent to the city, but the heads were left to be eaten on-site. We don't know if the tradition of eating sheep's heads in Duddingston is still carried on by the people of Edinburgh.
TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat Cookery).
TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat Recipe).
743. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, butter, a few slices of cold mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 kidneys.
743. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, butter, a few slices of cold mutton, salt and pepper to taste, 2 kidneys.
Mode.—Make a smooth batter of flour, milk, and eggs in the above proportion; butter a baking-dish, and pour in the batter. Into this place a few slices of cold mutton, previously well seasoned, and the kidneys, which should be cut into rather small pieces; bake about 1 hour, or rather longer, and send it to table in the dish it was baked in. Oysters or mushrooms may be substituted for the kidneys, and will be found exceedingly good.
Mode.—Make a smooth batter using flour, milk, and eggs in the specified amounts; grease a baking dish and pour the batter in. Add a few slices of cold, well-seasoned mutton, along with the kidneys, which should be cut into smaller pieces; bake for about 1 hour, or a bit longer, and serve it in the dish it was baked in. Oysters or mushrooms can be used instead of the kidneys and will taste really great.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour.
Time.—Just over 1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
Timely at any time.
BREAST OF LAMB AND GREEN PEAS.
744. INGREDIENTS.—1 breast of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1/4 pint of stock No. 105, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.
744. INGREDIENTS.—1 lamb breast, a few slices of bacon, 1/4 pint of stock No. 105, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savory herbs, green peas.
Mode.—Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, put it into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out and lay it in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices of bacon; lay the lamb on these; peel the lemon, cut it into slices, and put these on the meat, to keep it white and make it tender; cover with 1 or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set it on a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender. Have ready some green peas, put these on a dish, and place the lamb on the top of these. The appearance of this dish may be much improved by glazing the lamb, and spinach may be substituted for the peas when variety is desired.
Mode.—Remove the skin from a lamb breast, place it in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out and put it in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few thin slices of bacon; place the lamb on top of these; peel the lemon, slice it, and lay the slices on the meat to keep it white and tender; cover with 1 or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and herbs, and set it over a low flame to simmer gently until tender. Prepare some green peas, place them on a dish, and put the lamb on top. The presentation of this dish can be greatly improved by glazing the lamb, and spinach can be used instead of peas for a change.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 10 pence per lb.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Enough for 3 people.
Seasonable,—grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonable,—spring lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
THE LAMB AS A SACRIFICE.—The number of lambs consumed in sacrifices by the Hebrews must have been very considerable. Two lambs "of the first year" were appointed to be sacrificed daily for the morning and evening sacrifice; and a lamb served as a substitute for the first-born of unclean animals, such as the ass, which could not be accepted as an offering to the Lord. Every year, also, on the anniversary of the deliverance of the children of Israel from the bondage of Egypt, every family was ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, and to sprinkle some of its blood upon the door-posts, in commemoration of the judgment of God upon the Egyptians. It was to be eaten roasted, with unleavened bread and bitter herbs, in haste, with the loins girded, the shoes on the feet, and the staff in the hand; and whatever remained until the morning was to be burnt. The sheep was also used in the numerous special, individual, and national sacrifices ordered by the Jewish law. On extraordinary occasions, vast quantities of sheep were sacrificed at once; thus Solomon, on the completion of the temple, offered "sheep and oxen that could not be told nor numbered for multitude."
THE LAMB AS A SACRIFICE.—The number of lambs used in sacrifices by the Hebrews must have been quite large. Two lambs "of the first year" were designated to be sacrificed daily for the morning and evening rituals; and a lamb served as a substitute for the firstborn of unclean animals, like the donkey, which couldn’t be offered to the Lord. Every year, on the anniversary of the Israelites' escape from slavery in Egypt, each family was instructed to sacrifice a lamb or kid and sprinkle some of its blood on the doorposts to remember God's judgment on the Egyptians. It had to be eaten roasted, with unleavened bread and bitter herbs, quickly, with their belts fastened, shoes on their feet, and staff in hand; anything left until morning had to be burned. The sheep was also used for many special, personal, and national sacrifices required by Jewish law. On special occasions, large numbers of sheep were sacrificed at once; for example, Solomon, when the temple was finished, offered "sheep and oxen that could not be counted."
STEWED BREAST OF LAMB.
745. INGREDIENTS.—1 breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, sufficient stock, No. 105, to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and flour.
745. INGREDIENTS.—1 lamb breast, pepper and salt to taste, enough stock, No. 105, to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and flour.
Mode.—Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with pepper and salt; lay these in a stewpan, pour in sufficient stock or gravy to cover them, and stew very gently until tender, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour; add the sherry, give one boil, and pour it over the meat. Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may be strewed over the meat, and will be found a very great improvement.
Method.—Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with pepper and salt; place them in a saucepan, add enough stock or gravy to cover them, and simmer very gently until tender, which will take about 1-1/2 hours. Just before serving, thicken the sauce with a bit of butter and flour; add the sherry, bring it to a boil, and pour it over the meat. You can sprinkle green peas or stewed mushrooms over the meat, which will be a great enhancement.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 10p per lb.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Enough for 3 people.
Seasonable,—grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
In season—lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
LAMB CHOPS.
746. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of lamb, pepper and salt to taste.
746. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of lamb, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Trim off the flap from a fine loin of lamb, aid cut it into chops about 3/4 inch in thickness. Have ready a bright clear fire; lay the chops on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice pale brown, turning them when required. Season them with pepper and salt; serve very hot and quickly, and garnish with crisped parsley, or place them on mashed potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are the favourite accompaniments to lamb chops.
Mode.—Remove the flap from a nice loin of lamb, then cut it into chops about 3/4 inch thick. Prepare a bright, clear fire; place the chops on a grill and broil them until a nice pale brown, turning them as needed. Season with salt and pepper; serve very hot and quickly, garnishing with crispy parsley or placing them on mashed potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are the classic sides for lamb chops.
Time.—About 8 or 10 minutes. Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Time.—About 8 to 10 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling per pound.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 chops to each person.
Sufficient.—Serve 2 chops for each person.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
In-season from Easter to Michaelmas.
LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH (an Entree).
Lamb Chops and Spinach (an Entrée).
747. INGREDIENTS.—8 cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little clarified butter.
747. INGREDIENTS.—8 cutlets, an egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a bit of clarified butter.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and all the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush the cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified butter, sprinkle over a few more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them when required. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dish with spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb and shape them by trimming the thick part of the chine bone. Remove most of the fat and all the skin, and clean the top part of the bones thoroughly. Brush the cutlets with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with pepper and salt. Then dip them in clarified butter, add a few more bread crumbs, and fry them over high heat, turning them as needed. Let them drain in front of the fire, and arrange them on a plate with spinach in the center, which should be boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned beforehand.
Time.—About 7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Time.—About 7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonal from Easter to Michaelmas.
Note.—Peas, asparagus, or French beans, may be substituted for the spinach; or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers, Soubise sauce, &c. &c.
Note.—You can substitute peas, asparagus, or French beans for the spinach; or serve lamb cutlets with stewed cucumbers, Soubise sauce, etc. etc.
LAMB'S FRY.
748. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of lamb's fry, 3 pints of water, egg and bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste.
748. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of lamb's fries, 3 pints of water, egg and breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Boil the fry for 1/4 hour in the above proportion of water, take it out and dry it in a cloth; grate some bread down finely, mix with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of pepper and salt. Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle over the bread crumbs, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot on a napkin in a dish, and garnish with plenty of crisped parsley.
Method.—Boil the fish for 15 minutes in the specified amount of water, remove it and pat it dry with a cloth; finely grate some bread, mix it with a teaspoon of chopped parsley, and add a good amount of pepper and salt. Lightly brush the fish with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle the bread crumbs on top, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very hot on a napkin in a dish, and garnish with plenty of crispy parsley.
Time.-1 hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it.
Time.-1 hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10p. per lb.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Enough for 2 or 3 people.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonal from Easter to Michaelmas.
HASHED LAMB AND BROILED BLADE-BONE.
749. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a cold shoulder of lamb, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of stock or gravy, 1 tablespoonful of shalot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins.
749. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold lamb shoulder, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of stock or gravy, 1 tablespoon of shallot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins.
Mode.—Take the blade-bone from the shoulder, and cut the meat into collops as neatly as possible. Season the bone with pepper and salt, pour a little oiled butter over it, and place it in the oven to warm through. Put the stock into a stewpan, add the ketchup and shalot vinegar, and lay in the pieces of lamb. Let these heat gradually through, but do not allow them to boil. Take the blade-bone out of the oven, and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown. Slice the gherkins, put them into the hash, and dish it with the blade-bone in the centre. It may be garnished with croutons or sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Remove the blade bone from the shoulder and cut the meat into neat slices. Season the bone with pepper and salt, drizzle a little oiled butter over it, and put it in the oven to warm up. Put the stock in a saucepan, add the ketchup and shallot vinegar, and add the pieces of lamb. Let them heat slowly, but don’t let them boil. Take the blade bone out of the oven and place it on a grill over a hot fire to brown. Slice the gherkins, add them to the mixture, and serve it with the blade bone in the center. You can garnish it with croutons or pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—Total 30 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable,—house lamb, from Christmas to March; grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonable—house lamb, from Christmas to March; grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.]
[Illustration: Front leg of lamb.]
ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
750. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb, a little salt.
750. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—To obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection, it should not be long kept; time to cool is all that it requires; and though the meat may be somewhat thready, the juices and flavour will be infinitely superior to that of lamb that has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up the fire in good time, that it may be clear and brisk when the joint is put down. Place it at a sufficient distance to prevent the fat from burning, and baste it constantly till the moment of serving. Lamb should be very thoroughly done without being dried up, and not the slightest appearance of red gravy should be visible, as in roast mutton: this rule is applicable to all young white meats. Serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, the same as for other roasts, and send to table with it a tureen of mint sauce, No. 469, and a fresh salad. A cut lemon, a small piece of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, should also be placed on the table, so that when the carver separates the shoulder from the ribs, they may be ready for his use; if, however, he should not be very expert, we would recommend that the cook should divide these joints nicely before coming to table.
Mode.—To get the perfect flavor of lamb, it shouldn’t be kept for long; it just needs time to cool. Even if the meat is a bit stringy, the juices and flavor will be way better than lamb that’s been killed 2 or 3 days before. Start the fire early so it’s nice and hot when the meat goes on. Keep it at a distance that prevents the fat from burning, and baste it constantly until it’s time to serve. Lamb should be cooked all the way through without drying out, and there shouldn’t be any sign of red juice like in roast mutton. This rule applies to all young white meats. Serve it with a bit of gravy made in the roasting pan, just like with other roasts, and bring to the table a tureen of mint sauce, No. 469, and a fresh salad. Also, place a cut lemon, a small piece of fresh butter, and a little cayenne on the table so that when the carver separates the shoulder from the ribs, they’re ready to use; if he’s not very skilled, we suggest the cook divide these pieces neatly before serving.
Time.—Fore-quarter of lamb weighing 10 lbs., 1-3/4 to 2 hours.
Time.—Forequarter of lamb weighing 10 lbs., 1¾ to 2 hours.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb.
Seasonable,—grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonable,—grass-fed lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.
BOILED LEG OF LAMB A LA BECHAMEL.
751. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of lamb, Béchamel sauce, No. 367.
751. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of lamb, Béchamel sauce, No. 367.
Mode.—Do not choose a very large joint, but one weighing about 5 lbs. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, into which plunge the lamb, and when it boils up again, draw it to the side of the fire, and let the water cool a little. Then stew very gently for about 1-1/4 hour, reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer. Make some Béchamel by recipe No. 367, dish the lamb, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots. When liked, melted butter may be substituted for the Béchamel: this is a more simple method, but not nearly so nice. Send to table with it some of the sauce in a tureen, and boiled cauliflowers or spinach, with whichever vegetable the dish is garnished.
Mode.—Choose a joint that weighs about 5 lbs, not too large. Have a saucepan of boiling water ready, and plunge the lamb into it. Once it comes to a boil again, move it to the side of the fire and let the water cool slightly. Then, simmer very gently for about 1-1/4 hours, starting from when the water begins to simmer. Make some Béchamel using recipe No. 367, plate the lamb, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with small clusters of boiled cauliflower or carrots. If preferred, melted butter can replace the Béchamel; this method is simpler but not nearly as delicious. Serve with some of the sauce in a tureen, along with boiled cauliflower or spinach, alongside whichever vegetable garnishes the dish.
Time.—1-1/4 hour after the water simmers.
Time.—1 hour and 15 minutes after the water simmers.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Average cost, 10p to 1s. per lb.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
In season from Easter to Michaelmas.
ROAST LEG OF LAMB.
752. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb, a little salt.
752. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb, a pinch of salt.
[Illustration: LEG OF LAMB.]
[Illustration: Lamb Leg.]
Mode.—Place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first, and baste well the whole time it is cooking. When nearly done, draw it nearer the fire to acquire a nice brown colour. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, empty the dripping-pan of its contents; pour in a little boiling water, and strain this over the meat. Serve with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and for vegetables send peas, spinach, or cauliflowers to table with it.
Mode.—Start by placing the meat joint a good distance from the fire, and keep basting it throughout the cooking process. When it’s nearly done, move it closer to the fire to get a nice brown color. Sprinkle a bit of fine salt over the meat, empty the dripping pan, then pour in some boiling water and strain it over the meat. Serve it with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and for vegetables, offer peas, spinach, or cauliflower alongside it.
Time.—A leg of lamb weighing 5 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—A 5 lb. leg of lamb, 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Average cost, 10p to 1s. per lb.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonal from Easter to Michaelmas.
BRAISED LOIN OF LAMB.
[Illustration: LOIN OF LAMB.]
[Illustration: Lamb Loin.]
753. INGREDIENTS.—1 loin of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1 bunch of green onions, 5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 pint of stock, salt to taste.
753. INGREDIENTS.—1 loin of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1 bunch of green onions, 5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savory herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 pint of stock, salt to taste.
Mode.—Bone a loin of lamb, and line the bottom of a stewpan just capable of holding it, with a few thin slices of fat bacon; add the remaining ingredients, cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon, pour in the stock, and simmer very gently for 2 hours; take it up, dry it, strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve it either on stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers.
Mode.—Debone a loin of lamb, and line the bottom of a pot that can just hold it with a few thin slices of bacon; add the rest of the ingredients, cover the meat with a few more slices of bacon, pour in the stock, and simmer very gently for 2 hours; take it out, dry it, strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve it either on stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 11d. per lb.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 11p. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
In season from Easter to Michaelmas.
[Illustration: SADDLE OF LAMB. RIBS OF LAMB.]
[Illustration: SADDLE OF LAMB. RIBS OF LAMB.]
ROAST SADDLE OF LAMB.
754. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb; a little salt.
754. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb; a pinch of salt.
Mode.—This joint is now very much in vogue, and is generally considered a nice one for a small party. Have ready a clear brisk fire; put down the joint at a little distance, to prevent the fat from scorching, and keep it well basted all the time it is cooking. Serve with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and send to table with it, either peas, cauliflowers, or spinach.
Mode.—This cut of meat is really popular right now and is usually seen as a great choice for a small gathering. Prepare a nice, lively fire; place the meat a bit away from the heat to stop the fat from burning, and make sure to baste it regularly while it cooks. Serve it with mint sauce and a fresh salad, along with either peas, cauliflower, or spinach.
Time.—A small saddle, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 2 hours.
Time.—A small saddle, 1.5 hours; a large one, 2 hours.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb.
Average cost, 10p to 1s. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonal from Easter to Michaelmas.
Note.—Loin and ribs of lamb are roasted in the same manner, and served with the same sauces as the above. A loin will take about 1-1/4 hour; ribs, from 1 to 1-1/4 hour.
Note.—Loin and ribs of lamb are roasted the same way and served with the same sauces as mentioned above. A loin takes about 1 to 1.25 hours; ribs take between 1 to 1.25 hours.
ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB.
755. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb; a little salt.
755. INGREDIENTS.—Lamb; a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Have ready a clear brisk fire, and put down the joint at a sufficient distance from it, that the fat may not burn. Keep constantly basting until done, and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, and send mint sauce to table with it. Peas, spinach, or cauliflowers are the usual vegetables served with lamb, and also a fresh salad.
Mode.—Prepare a clear, hot fire, and place the meat at a safe distance so the fat doesn't burn. Keep basting regularly until it's cooked through, and serve it with a bit of gravy made in the dripping pan, along with mint sauce on the side. Typical vegetables served with lamb include peas, spinach, or cauliflower, and a fresh salad is also common.
Time.—A shoulder of lamb rather more than 1 hour.
Time.—A shoulder of lamb takes a little over 1 hour.
Average cost, 10s. to 1s. per lb.
Average cost, 10 shillings to 1 shilling per pound.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
In season from Easter to Michaelmas.
SHOULDER OF LAMB STUFFED.
756. INGREDIENTS.—Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat No. 417, trimmings of veal or beef, 2 onions, 1/2 head of celery, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 quart of stock No. 105.
756. INGREDIENTS.—Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat No. 417, trimmings of veal or beef, 2 onions, 1/2 head of celery, 1 bunch of savory herbs, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 quart of stock No. 105.
Mode.—Take the blade-bone out of a shoulder of lamb, fill up its place with forcemeat, and sew it up with coarse thread. Put it into a stewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over the lamb, and add the remaining ingredients. Stew very gently for rather more than 2 hours. Reduce the gravy, with which glaze the meat, and serve with peas, stewed cucumbers, or sorrel sauce.
Mode.—Remove the blade bone from a shoulder of lamb, fill the space with stuffing, and stitch it closed with thick thread. Place it in a pot with a few slices of bacon on the bottom and top of the lamb, then add the other ingredients. Simmer very gently for just over 2 hours. Reduce the gravy, glaze the meat with it, and serve with peas, stewed cucumbers, or sorrel sauce.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb.
Time.—Just over 2 hours. Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonal from Easter to Michaelmas.
LAMB'S SWEETBREADS, LARDED, AND ASPARAGUS (an Entree).
LAMB'S SWEETBREADS, LARDED, AND ASPARAGUS (an Entree).
757. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 sweetbreads, 1/2 pint of veal stock, white pepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green onions, 1 blade of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, 2 eggs, nearly 1/2 pint of cream, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a very little grated nutmeg.
757. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 sweetbreads, 1/2 pint of veal stock, white pepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green onions, 1 blade of ground mace, a thickening of butter and flour, 2 eggs, almost 1/2 pint of cream, 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley, a tiny amount of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, and put them into a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let them simmer for 10 minutes; then take them out and put them into cold water. Now lard them, lay them in a stewpan, add the stock, seasoning, onions, mace, and a thickening of butter and flour, and stew gently for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Beat up the egg with the cream, to which add the minced parsley and a very little grated nutmeg. Put this to the other ingredients; stir it well till quite hot, but do not let it boil after the cream is added, or it will curdle. Have ready some asparagus-tops, boiled; add these to the sweetbreads, and serve.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, then place them in a saucepan with enough boiling water to cover them, and let them simmer for 10 minutes. Afterward, remove them and put them into cold water. Now lard them, place them in a stewpan, and add the stock, seasoning, onions, mace, and a thickening made of butter and flour. Let it stew gently for 15 to 20 minutes. Beat the egg with the cream, then add the minced parsley and a tiny bit of grated nutmeg. Combine this with the other ingredients, stirring well until it's completely hot, but don’t let it boil after adding the cream, or it will curdle. Prepare some boiled asparagus tips, add these to the sweetbreads, and serve.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each.
Time.—Total 30 minutes. Average cost, 25p to 35p each.
Sufficient—3 sweetbreads for 1 entrée.
Sufficient—3 sweetbreads per entrée.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
Seasonal from Easter to Michaelmas.
ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
758. INGREDIENTS.—Sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of gravy, No. 442, 1/2 glass of sherry.
758. INGREDIENTS.—Sweetbreads, eggs, and breadcrumbs, 1/2 pint of gravy, No. 442, 1/2 glass of sherry.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour, and throw them into boiling water to render them firm. Let them stew gently for about 1/4 hour, take them out and put them into a cloth to drain all the water from them. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and either brown them in the oven or before the fire. Have ready the above quantity of gravy, to which add 1/2 glass of sherry; dish the sweetbreads, pour the gravy under them, and garnish with water-cresses.
Method.—Soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour, then place them in boiling water to firm them up. Let them simmer gently for about 15 minutes, then remove them and wrap them in a cloth to drain off the water. Brush them with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and either brown them in the oven or in front of the fire. Prepare the specified amount of gravy, adding half a glass of sherry; serve the sweetbreads with the gravy underneath and garnish with watercress.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes. Average cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each.
Sufficient—3 sweetbreads for 1 entrée.
Enough—3 sweetbreads for 1 main.
Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.
In season from Easter to Michaelmas.
MUTTON AND LAMB CARVING.
HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: MUTTON HAUNCH.]
759. A deep cut should, in the first place, be made quite down to the bone, across the knuckle-end of the joint, along the line 1 to 2. This will let the gravy escape; and then it should be carved, in not too thick slices, along the whole length of the haunch, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3.
759. First, make a deep cut all the way down to the bone, across the knuckle-end of the joint, along the line 1 to 2. This will allow the juices to escape; then, slice it not too thickly along the entire length of the haunch, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3.
[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: MUTTON LEG.]
LEG OF MUTTON.
760. This homely, but capital English joint, is almost invariably served at table as shown in the engraving. The carving of it is not very difficult: the knife should be carried sharply down in the direction of the line from 1 to 2, and slices taken from either side, as the guests may desire, some liking the knuckle-end, as well done, and others preferring the more underdone part. The fat should be sought near the line 3 to 4. Some connoisseurs are fond of having this joint dished with the under-side uppermost, so as to get at the finely-grained meat lying under that part of the meat, known as the Pope's eye; but this is an extravagant fashion, and one that will hardly find favour in the eyes of many economical British housewives and housekeepers.
760. This simple, but excellent English joint is usually served at the table like the one shown in the picture. Carving it isn't very hard: the knife should be drawn straight down along the line from 1 to 2, taking slices from either side, depending on the guests’ preferences—some enjoy the well-done knuckle-end while others like the more rare part. The fat can be found near the line 3 to 4. Some enthusiasts prefer having this joint served with the underside facing up to access the tender meat underneath, known as the Pope's eye; however, this is a somewhat extravagant choice that probably won’t be favored by many budget-conscious British housewives and housekeepers.
LOIN OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: Lamb Loin.]
761. There is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton which includes every other; that is, that the joint should be thoroughly well jointed by the butcher before it is cooked. This knack of jointing requires practice and the proper tools; and no one but the butcher is supposed to have these. If the bones be not well jointed, the carving of a loin of mutton is not a gracious business; whereas, if that has been attended to, it is an easy and untroublesome task. The knife should be inserted at fig. 1, and after feeling your way between the bones, it should be carried sharply in the direction of the line 1 to 2. As there are some people who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it, the question as to their choice of this should be asked.
761. When it comes to carving a loin of mutton, there's one key thing to keep in mind that covers everything else: the butcher should properly joint the meat before it's cooked. This skill requires practice and the right tools, which only butchers typically have. If the bones aren't well jointed, carving a loin of mutton can be quite difficult; however, if it's done correctly, the task becomes easy and straightforward. You should insert the knife at fig. 1 and carefully feel your way between the bones, then cut sharply along the line from 1 to 2. Since some people prefer the outer cut while others don’t, it's good to ask them about their preference first.
SADDLE OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: Mutton Saddle.]
762. Although we have heard, at various intervals, growlings expressed at the inevitable "saddle of mutton" at the dinner-parties of our middle classes, yet we doubt whether any other joint is better liked, when it has been well hung and artistically cooked. There is a diversity of opinion respecting the mode of sending this joint to table; but it has only reference to whether or no there shall be any portion of the tail, or, if so, how many joints of the tail. We ourselves prefer the mode as shown in our coloured illustration "O;" but others may, upon equally good grounds, like the way shown in the engraving on this page. Some trim the tail with a paper frill. The carving is not difficult: it is usually cut in the direction of the line from 2 to 1, quite down to the bones, in evenly-sliced pieces. A fashion, however, patronized by some, is to carve it obliquely, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3; in which case the joint would be turned round the other way, having the tail end on the right of the carver.
762. Although we've occasionally heard complaints about the predictable "saddle of mutton" at middle-class dinner parties, we wonder if any other roast is more favored when it's properly aged and cooked with care. There's some debate about how to serve this cut; opinions vary on whether to include part of the tail, and if so, how many segments to include. We personally prefer the presentation shown in our colored illustration "O," but others may reasonably prefer the version depicted in the engraving on this page. Some people dress up the tail with a paper frill. Carving isn't hard: you usually slice it along the line from 2 to 1, cutting down to the bone in evenly sized pieces. However, some choose to carve it at an angle, following the line from 4 to 3; in that case, the joint is turned so the tail end is on the right side of the carver.
SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
[Illustration: SHOULDER OF MUTTON.]
[Illustration: MUTTON SHOULDER.]
763. This is a joint not difficult to carve. The knife should be drawn from the outer edge of the shoulder in the direction of the line from 1 to 2, until the bone of the shoulder is reached. As many slices as can be carved in this manner should be taken, and afterwards the meat lying on either side of the blade-bone should be served, by carving in the direction of 3 to 4 and 3 to 4. The uppermost side of the shoulder being now finished, the joint should be turned, and slices taken off along its whole length. There are some who prefer this under-side of the shoulder for its juicy flesh, although the grain of the meat is not so fine as that on the other side.
763. This is a joint that's not hard to carve. The knife should be pulled from the outer edge of the shoulder toward the line from 1 to 2, until you hit the bone of the shoulder. Take as many slices as you can this way, and then serve the meat on either side of the blade-bone by carving in the direction of 3 to 4 and 3 to 4. Once you've finished with the top side of the shoulder, turn the joint over and slice along its entire length. Some people prefer the underside of the shoulder for its juicy meat, even though the grain isn't as fine as on the other side.
FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
[Illustration: FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.]
[Illustration: Lamb Forequarter.]
764. We always think that a good and practised carver delights in the manipulation of this joint, for there is a little field for his judgment and dexterity which does not always occur. The separation of the shoulder from the breast is the first point to be attended to; this is done by passing the knife lightly round the dotted line, as shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, by raising with a little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will come away with just a little more exercise of the knife. In dividing the shoulder and breast, the carver should take care not to cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that would rather spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. The breast and shoulder being separated, it is usual to lay a small piece of butter, and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt between them; and when this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy, the shoulder may, as more convenient, be removed into another dish. The, next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket, by cutting through the meat on the line 5 to 6. The joint is then ready to be served to the guests; the ribs being carved in the direction of the lines from 9 to 10, and the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should ask those at the table what parts they prefer-ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder.
764. We always think that a skilled and experienced carver enjoys working with this joint, as it offers a chance to showcase their skill and precision, which doesn’t always happen. The first thing to focus on is separating the shoulder from the breast; this is done by gently running the knife along the dotted line, as shown in figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, cutting through the skin. Then, by applying a little force to lift the shoulder, with the fork securely in place, it will come off with just a bit more cutting. When separating the shoulder from the breast, the carver should be careful not to remove too much meat from the breast, as this could affect its presentation once the shoulder is taken away. After separating the breast and shoulder, it's common to place a small piece of butter and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon juice, and salt between them; once this melts and mixes with the meat and gravy, the shoulder can be conveniently moved to another dish. The next step is to separate the ribs from the brisket by cutting through the meat along line 5 to 6. The joint is then ready to be served to the guests, with the ribs being carved along the lines from 9 to 10, and the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should ask those at the table what parts they prefer—ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder.
LEG OF LAMB, LOIN OF LAMB, SADDLE OF LAMB, SHOULDER OF LAMB,
are carved in the same manner as the corresponding joints of mutton. (See Nos. 760, 761, 762, 763.)
are carved in the same way as the equivalent joints of lamb. (See Nos. 760, 761, 762, 763.)
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XVI.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG.
765. THE HOG belongs to the order Mammalia, the genus Sus scrofa, and the species Pachydermata, or thick-skinned; and its generic characters are, a small head, with long flexible snout truncated; 42 teeth, divided into 4 upper incisors, converging, 6 lower incisors, projecting, 2 upper and 2 lower canine, or tusks,—the former short, the latter projecting, formidable, and sharp, and 14 molars in each jaw; cloven feet furnished with 4 toes, and tail, small, short, and twisted; while, in some varieties, this appendage is altogether wanting.
765. THE HOG belongs to the order Mammalia, the genus Sus scrofa, and the species Pachydermata, or thick-skinned. Its key features include a small head with a long, flexible, and blunt snout; 42 teeth, consisting of 4 converging upper incisors, 6 projecting lower incisors, 2 upper and 2 lower canines (or tusks)—the upper ones being short and the lower ones long, sharp, and menacing; and 14 molars in each jaw. It has cloven feet with 4 toes and a small, short, twisted tail; in some varieties, this tail is completely absent.
766. FROM THE NUMBER AND POSITION OF THE TEETH, physiologists are enabled to define the nature and functions of the animal; and from those of the Sus, or hog, it is evident that he is as much a grinder as a biter, or can live as well on vegetable as on animal food; though a mixture of both is plainly indicated as the character of food most conducive to the integrity and health of its physical system.
766. BY LOOKING AT THE NUMBER AND POSITION OF THE TEETH, physiologists can determine the nature and functions of the animal. From those of the Sus, or pig, it's clear that it is just as much a grinder as a biter, meaning it can thrive on both plant and animal food. However, a mix of both types of food is clearly shown to be the best for maintaining the health and well-being of its physical system.
767. THUS THE PIG TRIBE, though not a ruminating mammal, as might be inferred from the number of its molar teeth, is yet a link between the herbivorous and the carnivorous tribes, and is consequently what is known as an omnivorous quadruped; or, in other words, capable of converting any kind of aliment into nutriment.
767. SO, THE PIG TRIBE, although not a ruminant mammal as you might think based on the number of its molar teeth, is still a connection between the herbivorous and carnivorous groups, and is therefore classified as an omnivorous four-legged animal; in other words, it can turn any type of food into nourishment.
768. THOUGH THE HOOF IN THE HOG is, as a general rule, cloven, there are several remarkable exceptions, as in the species native to Norway, Illyria, Sardinia, and formerly to the Berkshire variety of the British domesticated pig, in which the hoof is entire and _un_cleft.
768. EVEN THOUGH THE HOOF OF THE HOG is usually split, there are some notable exceptions, such as in the species native to Norway, Illyria, Sardinia, and formerly in the Berkshire variety of the British domesticated pig, where the hoof is whole and not split.
769. WHATEVER DIFFERENCE IN ITS PHYSICAL NATURE, climate and soil may produce in this animal, his functional characteristics are the same in whatever part of the world he may be found; and whether in the trackless forests of South America, the coral isles of Polynesia, the jungles of India, or the spicy brakes of Sumatra, he is everywhere known for his gluttony, laziness, and indifference to the character and quality of his food. And though he occasionally shows an epicure's relish for a succulent plant or a luscious carrot, which he will discuss with all his salivary organs keenly excited, he will, the next moment, turn with equal gusto to some carrion offal that might excite the forbearance of the unscrupulous cormorant. It is this coarse and repulsive mode of feeding that has, in every country and language, obtained for him the opprobrium of being "an unclean animal."
769. NO MATTER THE DIFFERENCE IN ITS PHYSICAL NATURE, the climate and soil may create in this animal, its functional traits are the same no matter where it is found in the world. Whether in the vast forests of South America, the coral islands of Polynesia, the jungles of India, or the fragrant thickets of Sumatra, it is always recognized for its gluttony, laziness, and lack of concern for the type and quality of its food. While it sometimes displays a gourmet’s appreciation for a tender plant or a juicy carrot, which it will enjoy with all its salivary glands fully activated, in the next moment it will eagerly devour some decaying scraps that would challenge the patience of the most unconcerned scavenger. It is this crude and unsightly eating behavior that has, in every culture and language, earned it the reputation of being "an unclean animal."
770. IN THE MOSAICAL LAW, the pig is condemned as an unclean beast, and consequently interdicted to the Israelites, as unfit for human food. "And the swine, though he divideth the hoof and be cloven-footed, yet he cheweth not the cud. He is unclean to you."—Lev. xi. 7. Strict, however, as the law was respecting the cud-chewing and hoof-divided animals, the Jews, with their usual perversity and violation of the divine commands, seem afterwards to have ignored the prohibition; for, unless they ate pork, it is difficult to conceive for what purpose they kept troves of swine, as from the circumstance recorded in Matthew xviii. 32, when Jesus was in Galilee, and the devils, cast out of the two men, were permitted to enter the herd of swine that were feeding on the hills in the neighbourhood of the Sea of Tiberias, it is very evident they did. There is only one interpretation by which we can account for a prohibition that debarred the Jews from so many foods which we regard as nutritious luxuries, that, being fat and the texture more hard of digestion than other meats, they were likely, in a hot dry climate, where vigorous exercise could seldom be taken, to produce disease, and especially cutaneous affections; indeed, in this light, as a code of sanitary ethics, the book of Leviticus is the most admirable system of moral government ever conceived for man's benefit.
770. IN THE MOSAICAL LAW, pigs are labeled as unclean animals and are therefore banned for the Israelites, making them unsuitable for human consumption. "And the pig, even though it has split hooves and is cloven-footed, does not chew the cud. It is unclean for you."—Lev. xi. 7. However, despite the strict rules regarding cud-chewing and hoof-divided animals, the Jews, with their usual stubbornness and disregard for divine commands, seem to have later overlooked the ban; it's hard to imagine why they kept herds of pigs if they weren’t eating pork. This is evident from the account in Matthew xviii. 32, when Jesus was in Galilee and the demons, after being cast out of two men, were allowed to enter the herd of pigs that were feeding in the hills near the Sea of Tiberias. The only way to understand a prohibition that kept the Jews from many foods we consider tasty and nutritious is that these foods, being fatty and difficult to digest compared to other meats, could lead to health issues, particularly skin diseases, in a hot, dry climate where vigorous exercise was seldom possible. Viewed this way, as a code of health guidelines, the book of Leviticus is one of the most impressive moral systems ever created for the well-being of humanity.
771. SETTING HIS COARSE FEEDING AND SLOVENLY HABITS OUT OF THE QUESTION, there is no domestic animal so profitable or so useful to man as the much-maligned pig, or any that yields him a more varied or more luxurious repast. The prolific powers of the pig are extraordinary, even under the restraint of domestication; but when left to run wild in favourable situations, as in the islands of the South Pacific, the result, in a few years, from two animals put on shore and left undisturbed, is truly surprising; for they breed so fast, and have such numerous litters, that unless killed off in vast numbers both for the use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships' crews, they would degenerate into vermin. In this country the pig has usually two litters, or farrows, in a year, the breeding seasons being April and October; and the period the female goes with her young is about four months,—16 weeks or 122 days. The number produced at each litter depends upon the character of the breed; 12 being the average number in the small variety, and 10 in the large; in the mixed breeds, however, the average is between 10 and 15, and in some instances has reached as many as 20. But however few, or however many, young pigs there may be to the farrow, there is always one who is the dwarf of the family circle, a poor, little, shrivelled, half-starved anatomy, with a small melancholy voice, a staggering gait, a woe-begone countenance, and a thread of a tail, whose existence the complacent mother ignores, his plethoric brothers and sisters repudiate, and for whose emaciated jaws there is never a spare or supplemental teat, till one of the favoured gormandizers, overtaken by momentary oblivion, drops the lacteal fountain, and gives the little squeaking straggler the chance of a momentary mouthful. This miserable little object, which may be seen bringing up the rear of every litter, is called the Tony pig, or the Anthony; so named, it is presumed, from being the one always assigned to the Church, when tithe was taken in kind; and as St. Anthony was the patron of husbandry, his name was given in a sort of bitter derision to the starveling that constituted his dues; for whether there are ten or fifteen farrows to the litter, the Anthony is always the last of the family to come into the world.
771. PUTTING ASIDE ITS ROUGH FEEDING AND MESSY HABITS, there’s no domestic animal that’s as profitable or useful to humans as the often-criticized pig, nor any that provides a more diverse or luxurious meal. The breeding capabilities of pigs are remarkable, even under domestication; but when allowed to roam freely in favorable conditions, like on the islands of the South Pacific, the outcome from just two pigs left undisturbed is truly astonishing. They reproduce so quickly and have such large litters that unless they’re culled in large numbers for the local population and to supply fresh food for ship crews, they would become a nuisance. In this country, pigs typically have two litters, or farrows, each year, with breeding seasons in April and October. The gestation period for females is about four months—16 weeks or 122 days. The number of piglets in each litter varies by breed; the average for smaller breeds is 12, and for larger breeds, it’s 10. However, in mixed breeds, the average is between 10 and 15, and in some cases, it can reach up to 20. No matter how few or many piglets are born, there’s always one that’s the smallest of the bunch—a poor, little, shriveled, half-starved creature with a sad little voice, a wobbly walk, a forlorn face, and a thin tail. This little one is overlooked by the proud mother, rejected by its plump siblings, and there's rarely an extra teat available for its emaciated mouth until one of the favored piglets, momentarily distracted, stops nursing and gives the little squeaker a chance for a quick sip. This pitiful little creature, which you can always find trailing behind the rest of the litter, is called the Tony pig, or the Anthony; it’s thought to be named that because it was always the one designated for the Church during the tithe collection. Since St. Anthony is the patron saint of farmers, his name was given with a touch of bitter irony to the poor little thing that represented the church's dues; whether there are ten or fifteen piglets in a litter, the Anthony is always the last one to join the world.
772. FROM THE GROSSNESS OF HIS FEEDING, the large amount of aliment he consumes, his gluttonous way of eating it, from his slothful habits, laziness, and indulgence in sleep, the pig is particularly liable to disease, and especially indigestion, heartburn, and affections of the skin.
772. BECAUSE OF HOW GREEDILY HE EATS, the large quantity of food he consumes, his gluttonous eating habits, along with his lazy lifestyle and love for sleep, the pig is especially prone to illness, particularly indigestion, heartburn, and skin conditions.
773. TO COUNTERACT THE CONSEQUENCE OF A VIOLATION OF THE PHYSICAL LAWS, a powerful monitor in the brain of the pig teaches him to seek for relief and medicine. To open the pores of his skin, blocked up with mud, and excite perspiration, he resorts to a tree, a stump, or his trough—anything rough and angular, and using it as a curry-comb to his body, obtains the luxury of a scratch and the benefit of cuticular evaporation; he next proceeds with his long supple snout to grub up antiscorbutic roots, cooling salads of mallow and dandelion, and, greatest treat of all, he stumbles on a piece of chalk or a mouthful of delicious cinder, which, he knows by instinct, is the most sovereign remedy in the world for that hot, unpleasant sensation he has had all the morning at his stomach.
773. TO COUNTERACT THE EFFECT OF BREAKING THE PHYSICAL LAWS, a strong instinct in the pig's brain guides him to look for relief and medicine. To open his skin's pores, which are blocked with mud, and get himself to sweat, he uses a tree, a stump, or his feeding trough—anything rough and angular, and by using it to scratch his body, he enjoys the satisfaction of a good scratch and the benefits of evaporating moisture; then he goes on with his long, flexible snout to dig up disease-fighting roots, refreshing salads of mallow and dandelion, and the best treat of all, he finds a piece of chalk or a tasty bit of cinder, which he instinctively knows is the most effective remedy for the hot, uncomfortable feeling he has been dealing with in his stomach all morning.
774. IT IS A REMARKABLE FACT that, though every one who keeps a pig knows how prone he is to disease, how that disease injures the quality of the meat, and how eagerly he pounces on a bit of coal or cinder, or any coarse dry substance that will adulterate the rich food on which he lives, and by affording soda to his system, correct the vitiated fluids of his body,—yet very few have the judgment to act on what they see, and by supplying the pig with a few shovelfuls of cinders in his sty, save the necessity of his rooting for what is so needful to his health. Instead of this, however, and without supplying the animal with what its instinct craves for, his nostril is bored with a red-hot iron, and a ring clinched in his nose to prevent rooting for what he feels to be absolutely necessary for his health; and ignoring the fact that, in a domestic state at least, the pig lives on the richest of all food,—scraps of cooked animal substances, boiled vegetables, bread, and other items, given in that concentrated essence of aliment for a quadruped called wash, and that he eats to repletion, takes no exercise, and finally sleeps all the twenty-four hours he is not eating, and then, when the animal at last seeks for those medicinal aids which would obviate the evil of such a forcing diet, his keeper, instead of meeting his animal instinct by human reason, and giving him what he seeks, has the inhumanity to torture him by a ring, that, keeping up a perpetual "raw" in the pig's snout, prevents his digging for those corrective drugs which would remove the evils of his artificial existence.
774. IT IS A REMARKABLE FACT that, even though everyone who raises a pig knows how vulnerable it is to illness, how that illness affects the quality of its meat, and how eagerly it goes after a piece of coal or cinder, or any coarse dry material that can mix with the rich food it eats, and by providing soda to its system, help balance its unhealthy fluids—very few have the insight to act on what they observe. By giving the pig a few shovelfuls of cinders in its pen, they could avoid the need for it to root around for what is essential to its health. Instead, however, they ignore the animal’s instincts and distressingly bore its nostril with a red-hot iron and fit a ring in its nose to stop it from searching for what it knows it needs. They overlook the reality that, in a domestic setting at least, the pig is fed the richest food—scraps of cooked animal products, boiled vegetables, bread, and other concentrated nutritional items referred to as wash, which it consumes to excess, takes no exercise, and sleeps for all the hours it isn’t eating. Then, when the animal finally tries to find those medicinal aids that could counteract the negative effects of such a forced diet, its owner shows cruelty by torturing it with a ring that keeps its snout in a constant state of irritation, preventing it from digging for those corrective substances that could alleviate the problems caused by its unnatural lifestyle.
775. THOUGH SUBJECT TO SO MANY DISEASES, no domestic animal is more easily kept in health, cleanliness, and comfort, and this without the necessity of "ringing," or any excessive desire of the hog to roam, break through his sty, or plough up his pound. Whatever the kind of food may be on which the pig is being fed or fattened, a teaspoonful or more of salt should always be given in his mess of food, and a little heap of well-burnt cinders, with occasional bits of chalk, should always be kept by the side of his trough, as well as a vessel of clean water: his pound, or the front part of his sty, should be totally free from straw, the brick flooring being every day swept out and sprinkled with a layer of sand. His lair, or sleeping apartment, should be well sheltered by roof and sides from cold, wet, and all changes of weather, and the bed made up of a good supply of clean straw, sufficiently deep to enable the pig to burrow his unprotected body beneath it. All the refuse of the garden, in the shape of roots, leaves, and stalks, should be placed in a corner of his pound or feeding-chamber, for the delectation of his leisure moments; and once a week, on the family washing-day, a pail of warm soap-suds should be taken into his sty, and, by means of a scrubbing-brush and soap, his back, shoulders, and flanks should be well cleaned, a pail of clean warm water being thrown over his body at the conclusion, before he is allowed to retreat to his clean straw to dry himself. By this means, the excessive nutrition of his aliment will be corrected, a more perfect digestion insured, and, by opening the pores of the skin, a more vigorous state of health acquired than could have been obtained under any other system.
775. EVEN THOUGH THEY'RE PRONE TO MANY DISEASES, no domestic animal is easier to keep healthy, clean, and comfortable, and this can be done without needing to "ring" them or having an intense desire for the hog to wander, break through its pen, or dig up its yard. Regardless of the type of food the pig is being fed or fattened on, a teaspoonful or more of salt should always be mixed into its food, and a small pile of well-burnt cinders, along with some bits of chalk, should always be available near its trough, as well as a container of clean water. Its pen, or the front part of its enclosure, should be completely free of straw, with the brick floor being swept out and sprinkled with a layer of sand every day. The pig's sleeping area should be well-protected from cold, wet weather, with a bed made of a good amount of clean straw deep enough for the pig to burrow into. All the garden scraps, like roots, leaves, and stalks, should be placed in a corner of its feeding area for it to enjoy in its free time; and once a week, on laundry day, a bucket of warm soapy water should be brought into its pen, and using a scrubbing brush and soap, its back, shoulders, and sides should be thoroughly cleaned, followed by rinsing with a bucket of clean warm water before it is allowed to return to its clean straw to dry off. This routine will help correct any excess nutrition in its food, ensure better digestion, and by opening the skin's pores, promote a healthier state than could be achieved through any other method.
776. WE HAVE ALREADY SAID that no other animal yields man so many kinds and varieties of luxurious food as is supplied to him by the flesh of the hog differently prepared; for almost every part of the animal, either fresh, salted, or dried, is used for food; and even those viscera not so employed are of the utmost utility in a domestic point of view.
776. WE HAVE ALREADY SAID that no other animal provides humans with so many types and varieties of luxurious food as the flesh of the pig does when prepared in different ways; nearly every part of the animal, whether fresh, salted, or dried, is used for food; and even the organs that aren't used this way are extremely useful from a domestic perspective.
777. THOUGH DESTITUTE OF THE HIDE, HORNS, AND HOOFS, constituting the offal of most domestic animals, the pig is not behind the other mammalia in its usefulness to man. Its skin, especially that of the boar, from its extreme closeness of texture, when tanned, is employed for the seats of saddles, to cover powder, shot, and drinking-flasks; and the hair, according to its colour, flexibility, and stubbornness, is manufactured into tooth, nail, and hairbrushes,—others into hat, clothes, and shoe-brushes; while the longer and finer qualities are made into long and short brooms and painters' brushes; and a still more rigid description, under the name of "bristles," are used by the shoemaker as needles for the passage of his wax-end. Besides so many benefits and useful services conferred on man by this valuable animal, his fat, in a commercial sense, is quite as important as his flesh, and brings a price equal to the best joints in the carcase. This fat is rendered, or melted out of the caul, or membrane in which it is contained, by boiling water, and, while liquid, run into prepared bladders, when, under the name of lard, it becomes an article of extensive trade and value.
777. EVEN WITHOUT THE SKIN, HORNS, AND HOOFS, which make up the waste of most farm animals, the pig is just as beneficial to humans as other mammals. Its skin, especially from male pigs, is very tightly textured and, when tanned, is used for saddle seats, covering powder, shot, and drinking flasks. The hair, depending on its color, flexibility, and sturdiness, is crafted into toothbrushes, nail brushes, and hairbrushes—others are made into hat brushes, clothing brushes, and shoe brushes; while the longer and finer hairs are used for both long and short brooms and paintbrushes. An even stiffer type, known as "bristles," is used by shoemakers as needles for threading waxed ends. In addition to all these benefits and services provided to humans by this valuable animal, its fat is commercially just as significant as its meat and commands prices equal to the best cuts of the carcass. This fat is rendered, or melted out of the membrane that holds it, by boiling water, and while still liquid, it is poured into prepared bladders, where it becomes known as lard, a widely traded and valuable product.
778. OF THE NUMEROUS VARIETIES OF THE DOMESTICATED HOG, the following list of breeds may be accepted as the best, presenting severally all those qualities aimed at in the rearing of domestic stock, as affecting both the breeder and the consumer. Native—Berkshire, Essex, York, and Cumberland; Foreign—the Chinese. Before, however, proceeding with the consideration of the different orders, in the series we have placed them, it will be necessary to make a few remarks relative to the pig generally. In the first place, the Black Pig is regarded by breeders as the best and most eligible animal, not only from the fineness and delicacy of the skin, but because it is less affected by the heat in summer, and far less subject to cuticular disease than either the white or brindled hog, but more particularly from its kindlier nature and greater aptitude to fatten.
778. AMONG THE MANY TYPES OF DOMESTICATED PIGS, the following list of breeds can be considered the best, showcasing all the qualities sought after in breeding domestic stock, which benefit both the breeder and the consumer. Native—Berkshire, Essex, York, and Cumberland; Foreign—the Chinese. However, before diving into the specifics of each breed in the order we've organized them, it's important to share a few thoughts about pigs in general. First, the Black Pig is seen by breeders as the best and most desirable animal, not only because of its fine and delicate skin but also because it handles the summer heat better and is much less prone to skin diseases compared to white or brindled pigs, particularly due to its friendlier nature and greater tendency to gain weight.
779. THE GREAT QUALITY FIRST SOUGHT FOR IN A HOG is a capacious stomach, and next, a healthy power of digestion; for the greater the quantity he can eat, and the more rapidly he can digest what he has eaten, the more quickly will he fatten; and the faster he can be made to increase in flesh, without a material increase of bone, the better is the breed considered, and the more valuable the animal. In the usual order of nature, the development of flesh and enlargement of bone proceed together; but here the object is to outstrip the growth of the bones by the quicker development of their fleshy covering.
779. THE MAIN QUALITY THAT IS MOST DESIRED IN A HOG is a large stomach, followed by a strong ability to digest; because the more he can eat and the faster he can digest what he eats, the quicker he will gain weight. The faster he can put on flesh without significantly increasing bone size, the better the breed is considered and the more valuable the animal becomes. Normally, the growth of flesh and bones happens together, but here the goal is to have the flesh develop faster than the bones.
780. THE CHIEF POINTS SOUGHT FOR IN THE CHOICE OF A HOG are breadth of chest, depth of carcase, width of loin, chine, and ribs, compactness of form, docility, cheerfulness, and general beauty of appearance. The head in a well-bred hog must not be too long, the forehead narrow and convex, cheeks full, snout fine, mouth small, eyes small and quick, ears short, thin, and sharp, pendulous, and pointing forwards; neck full and broad, particularly on the top, where it should join very broad shoulders; the ribs, loin, and haunch should be in a uniform line, and the tail well set, neither too high nor too low; at the same time the back is to be straight or slightly curved, the chest deep, broad, and prominent, the legs short and thick; the belly, when well fattened, should nearly touch the ground, the hair be long, thin, fine, and having few bristles, and whatever the colour, uniform, either white, black, or blue; but not spotted, speckled, brindled, or sandy. Such are the features and requisites that, among breeders and judges, constitute the beau idéal of a perfect pig.
780. THE MAIN FEATURES TO LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING A HOG are broad chest, deep body, wide loin, strong backbone, and ribs, compact shape, good temperament, friendliness, and overall attractiveness. A well-bred hog should have a head that isn’t too long, a narrow and rounded forehead, full cheeks, a fine snout, a small mouth, quick and small eyes, short, thin, sharp ears that hang down and point forward; a full and broad neck, especially at the top, where it connects to wide shoulders; the ribs, loin, and hindquarters should line up evenly, and the tail should be well-positioned, not too high or low; the back should be straight or slightly curved, with a deep, wide, and prominent chest, and short, sturdy legs; the belly, when well-fed, should nearly touch the ground, the hair should be long, thin, fine, and have few bristles, and whatever the color, it should be uniform, whether white, black, or blue; but not spotted, speckled, brindled, or sandy. These are the characteristics and qualities that, among breeders and judges, define the beau idéal of a perfect pig.
[Illustration: BERKSHIRE SOW.]
[Illustration: Berkshire Pig.]
781. THE BERKSHIRE PIG IS THE BEST KNOWN AND MOST ESTEEMED of all our English domestic breeds, and so highly is it regarded, that even the varieties of the stock are in as great estimation as the parent breed itself. The characteristics of the Berkshire hog are that it has a tawny colour, spotted with black, large ears hanging over the eyes, a thick, close, and well-made body, legs short and small in the bone; feeds up to a great weight, fattens quickly, and is good either for pork or bacon. The New or Improved Berkshire possesses all the above qualities, but is infinitely more prone to fatten, while the objectionable colour has been entirely done away with, being now either all white or completely black.
781. THE BERKSHIRE PIG IS THE MOST FAMOUS AND HIGHLY REGARDED of all our English domestic breeds, and it’s so valued that even the different varieties of the breed are as highly esteemed as the main breed itself. The Berkshire pig is known for its tawny color with black spots, large ears that hang over its eyes, a thick, compact body, and short, small-boned legs. It gains weight quickly, fattens easily, and is excellent for both pork and bacon. The New or Improved Berkshire has all these qualities but is much more likely to put on fat, while the undesirable color has been completely eliminated, now coming in either completely white or entirely black.
[Illustration: ESSEX SOW.]
[Illustration: ESSEX SOW.]
782. NEXT TO THE FORMER, THE ESSEX takes place in public estimation, always competing, and often successfully, with the Berkshire. The peculiar characters of the Essex breed are that it is tip-eared, has a long sharp head, is roach-backed, with a long flat body, standing high on the legs; is rather bare of hair, is a quick feeder, has an enormous capacity of stomach and belly, and an appetite to match its receiving capability. Its colour is white, or else black and white, and it has a restless habit and an unquiet disposition. The present valuable stock has sprung from a cross between the common native animal and either the White Chinese or Black Neapolitan breeds.
782. NEXT TO THE FORMER, THE ESSEX is viewed positively by the public, consistently competing, and often successfully, with the Berkshire. The unique traits of the Essex breed are that it has tipped ears, a long sharp head, a slightly arched back, and a long flat body, standing tall on its legs; it has relatively little hair, is a fast eater, has a large stomach and belly, and an appetite that matches its capacity. Its color is either white or black and white, and it tends to be restless with an uneasy temperament. The current valuable stock has resulted from breeding between the typical native animal and either the White Chinese or Black Neapolitan breeds.
[Illustration: YORKSHIRE SOW.]
[Illustration: YORKSHIRE SOW.]
783. THE YORKSHIRE, CALLED ALSO THE OLD LINCOLNSHIRE, was at one time the largest stock of the pig family in England, and perhaps, at that time, the worst. It was long-legged, weak in the loins, with coarse white curly hair, and flabby flesh. Now, however, it has undergone as great a change as any breed in the kingdom, and by judicious crossing has become the most valuable we possess, being a very well-formed pig throughout, with a good head, a pleasant docile countenance, with moderate-sized drooping ears, a broad back, slightly curved, large chine and loins, with deep sides, full chest, and well covered with long thickly-set white hairs. Besides these qualities of form, he is a quick grower, feeds fast, and will easily make from 20 to 25 stone before completing his first year. The quality of the meat is also uncommonly good, the fat and lean being laid on in almost equal proportions. So capable is this species of development, both in flesh and stature, that examples of the Yorkshire breed have been exhibited weighing as much as a Scotch ox.
783. THE YORKSHIRE, ALSO KNOWN AS THE OLD LINCOLNSHIRE, was once the largest type of pig in England, and probably the worst back then. It had long legs, weak loins, coarse white curly hair, and soft flesh. However, it has since changed dramatically and is now one of the most valuable breeds we have, featuring a well-proportioned body, a good head, a friendly and gentle expression, moderately-sized drooping ears, a slightly curved broad back, large chine and loins, deep sides, a full chest, and covered with long, thick white hair. In addition to these physical traits, it grows quickly, eats efficiently, and can easily reach weights of 20 to 25 stone before its first birthday. The quality of the meat is also exceptionally good, with fat and lean meat being present in almost equal amounts. This breed is so capable of developing both in size and weight that individual Yorkshire pigs have been shown weighing as much as a Scotch ox.
[Illustration: CUMBERLAND SOW.]
[Illustration: CUMBERLAND SOW.]
784. THOUGH ALMOST EVERY COUNTRY IN ENGLAND can boast some local variety or other of this useful animal, obtained from the native stock by crossing with some of the foreign kinds, Cumberland and the north-west parts of the kingdom have been celebrated for a small breed of white pigs, with a thick, compact, and well-made body, short in the legs, the head and back well formed, ears slouching and a little downwards, and on the whole, a hardy, profitable animal, and one well disposed to fatten.
784. ALMOST EVERY REGION IN ENGLAND has its own local type of this useful animal, developed by crossing the native breed with some foreign ones. Cumberland and the north-western areas of the country are known for a small breed of white pigs that have a thick, compact, and well-proportioned body, short legs, a well-shaped head and back, droopy ears that point slightly downwards, and overall, they are a sturdy, profitable animal that tends to gain weight easily.
785. THERE IS NO VARIETY OF THIS USEFUL ANIMAL that presents such peculiar features as the species known to us as the Chinese pig; and as it is the general belief that to this animal and the Neapolitan hog we are indebted for that remarkable improvement which has taken place in the breeds of the English pig, it is necessary to be minute in the description of this, in all respects, singular animal. The Chinese, in the first place, consists of many varieties, and presents as many forms of body as differences of colour; the best kind, however, has a beautiful white skin of singular thinness and delicacy; the hair too is perfectly white, and thinly set over the body, with here and there a few bristles. He has a broad snout, short head, eyes bright and fiery, very small fine pink ears, wide cheeks, high chine, with a neck of such immense thickness, that when the animal is fat it looks like an elongated carcase,—a mass of fat, without shape or form, like a feather pillow. The belly is dependent, and almost trailing on the ground, the legs very short, and the tail so small as to be little more than a rudiment. It has a ravenous appetite, and will eat anything that the wonderful assimilating powers of its stomach can digest; and to that capability, there seems no limit in the whole range of animal or vegetable nature. The consequence of this perfect and singularly rapid digestion is an unprecedented proneness to obesity, a process of fattening that, once commenced, goes on with such rapid development, that, in a short time, it loses all form, depositing such an amount of fat, that it in fact ceases to have any refuse part or offal, and, beyond the hair on its back and the callous extremity of the snout, the whole carcase is eatable.
785. THERE IS NO VARIETY OF THIS USEFUL ANIMAL that has such unique features as the species we know as the Chinese pig. Since it's widely believed that this animal, along with the Neapolitan hog, has significantly improved the breeds of the English pig, it's important to provide a detailed description of this distinctly notable animal. First, the Chinese pig comes in many varieties and displays as many body shapes as there are color differences. The best type, however, has a beautifully thin and delicate white skin. Its hair is also completely white, sparsely covering its body, with a few bristles scattered throughout. It has a broad snout, a short head, bright, fiery eyes, very small fine pink ears, wide cheeks, a high back, and an incredibly thick neck. When the animal is fat, it appears to be an elongated carcass—a mass of fat without shape, resembling a feather pillow. Its belly hangs low, almost touching the ground, its legs are very short, and its tail is so small that it seems hardly more than a stub. It has a huge appetite and will eat anything that its amazing digestive system can handle, with no apparent limits regarding the range of animal or plant matter it can consume. The result of this exceptionally fast digestion is a remarkable tendency to gain weight. Once the fattening process starts, it progresses so quickly that, in a short time, the pig loses all shape, accumulating so much fat that it effectively has no waste or offal. Other than the hair on its back and the tough tip of its snout, the whole carcass is eatable.
[Illustration: CHINESE SOW.]
[Illustration: CHINESE SOW.]
786. WHEN JUDICIOUSLY FED ON VEGETABLE DIET, and this obese tendency checked, the flesh of the Chinese pig is extremely delicate and delicious; but when left to gorge almost exclusively on animal food, it becomes oily, coarse, and unpleasant. Perhaps there is no other instance in nature where the effect of rapid and perfect digestion is so well shown as in this animal, which thrives on everything, and turns to the benefit of its physical economy, food of the most opposite nature, and of the most unwholesome and offensive character. When fully fattened, the thin cuticle, that is one of its characteristics, cracks, from the adipose distension beneath, exposing the fatty mass, which discharges a liquid oil from the adjacent tissues. The great fault in this breed is the remarkably small quantity of lean laid down, to the immense proportion of fat. Some idea of the growth of this species may be inferred from the fact of their attaining to 18 stone before two years, and when further advanced, as much as 40 stone. In its pure state, except for roasters, the Chinese pig is too disproportionate for the English market; but when crossed with some of our lean stock, the breed becomes almost invaluable.
786. WHEN PROPERLY FED ON A VEGETABLE DIET, and if the tendency to become obese is controlled, the meat of the Chinese pig is very tender and tasty; however, when allowed to mostly eat animal food, it turns oily, tough, and unappetizing. There might not be another example in nature where the impact of quick and efficient digestion is so clearly demonstrated as in this animal, which flourishes on everything and benefits from foods that are highly opposite in nature and quite unwholesome and offensive. When fully fattened, the thin skin, which is one of its traits, cracks due to the fat buildup underneath, revealing the fatty layer that leaks liquid oil from the surrounding tissues. The main issue with this breed is the unusually small amount of lean meat in comparison to the large amount of fat. One can get an idea of the growth of this species from the fact that they can reach 18 stone before they are two years old, and as they grow, they can weigh as much as 40 stone. In its pure form, except for roasting, the Chinese pig is too unbalanced for the English market; however, when bred with some of our leaner stock, the breed becomes nearly priceless.
[Illustration: WESTPHALIAN BOAR.]
[Illustration: WESTPHALIAN BOAR.]
787. THE WILD BOAR is a much more cleanly and sagacious animal than the domesticated hog; he is longer in the snout, has his ears shorter and his tusks considerably longer, very frequently measuring as much as 10 inches. They are extremely sharp, and are bent in an upward circle. Unlike his domestic brother, who roots up here and there, or wherever his fancy takes, the wild boar ploughs the ground in continuous lines or furrows. The boar, when selected as the parent of a stock, should have a small head, be deep and broad in the chest; the chine should be arched, the ribs and barrel well rounded, with the haunches falling full down nearly to the hock; and he should always be more compact and smaller than the female. The colour of the wild boar is always of a uniform hue, and generally of an iron grey; shading off into a black. The hair of the boar is of considerable length, especially about the head and mane; he stands, in general, from 20 to 30 inches in height at the shoulders, though instances have occurred where he has reached 42 inches. The young are of a pale yellowish tint, irregularly brindled with light brown. The boar of Germany is a large and formidable animal, and the hunting of him, with a small species of mastiff, is still a national sport. From living almost exclusively on acorns and nuts, his flesh is held in great esteem, and in Westphalia his legs are made into hams by a process which, it is said, enhances the flavour and quality of the meat in a remarkable degree.
787. THE WILD BOAR is a much cleaner and smarter animal than the domesticated pig; it has a longer snout, shorter ears, and significantly longer tusks, often measuring up to 10 inches. These tusks are extremely sharp and curve upward. Unlike its domestic counterpart, which digs around wherever it wants, the wild boar digs the ground in straight lines or furrows. When selecting a wild boar for breeding, it should have a small head, a deep and broad chest; the back should be arched, the ribs and body well-rounded, with the back legs dropping down close to the hock; and it should always be more compact and smaller than the female. The wild boar's color is always uniform, typically a shade of iron grey, fading into black. The boar’s hair is quite long, especially around the head and mane; it generally stands about 20 to 30 inches tall at the shoulders, although there have been cases where it has reached 42 inches. The young boars are a pale yellowish color, irregularly striped with light brown. The German boar is a large and formidable animal, and hunting it with a small type of mastiff is still a popular sport. Because they primarily eat acorns and nuts, their meat is highly valued, and in Westphalia, their legs are made into hams through a process that reportedly significantly enhances the flavor and quality of the meat.
788. THERE ARE TWO POINTS to be taken into consideration by all breeders of pigs—to what ultimate use is the flesh to be put; for, if meant to be eaten fresh, or simply salted, the small breed of pigs is host suited for the purpose; if for hams or bacon, the large variety of the animal is necessary. Pigs are usually weaned between six and eight weeks after birth, after which they are fed on soft food, such as mashed potatoes in skimmed or butter-milk. The general period at which the small hogs are killed for the market is from 12 to 16 weeks; from 4 to 5 mouths, they are called store pigs, and are turned out to graze till the animal has acquired its full stature. As soon as this point has been reached, the pig should be forced to maturity as quickly as possible; he should therefore be taken from the fields and farm-yard, and shut up on boiled potatoes, buttermilk, and peas-meal, after a time to be followed by grains, oil-cake, wash, barley, and Indian meal; supplying his sty at the same time with plenty of water, cinders, and a quantity of salt in every mess of food presented to him.
788. THERE ARE TWO POINTS to consider for all pig breeders: what the ultimate use of the meat will be. If the meat is intended to be eaten fresh or just salted, the small breed of pigs is best suited for that purpose. If the meat is for hams or bacon, then the larger breed is necessary. Pigs are typically weaned between six to eight weeks after birth, and during this time, they are fed soft food like mashed potatoes in skimmed milk or buttermilk. The usual time for slaughtering the small pigs for market is between 12 to 16 weeks. From four to five months old, they are referred to as store pigs and are allowed to graze until they reach their full size. Once this point is reached, the pig should be pushed to mature as quickly as possible. Therefore, he should be taken from the fields and farmyard and fed boiled potatoes, buttermilk, and pea meal, eventually adding grains, oil-cake, wash, barley, and cornmeal. At the same time, make sure his pen has plenty of water, cinders, and a good amount of salt in every portion of food given to him.
789. THE ESTIMATED NUMBER OF PIGS IN GREAT BRITAIN is supposed to exceed 20 millions; and, considering the third of the number as worth £2 apiece, and the remaining two-thirds as of the relative value of 10s. each, would give a marketable estimate of over £20,000,000 for this animal alone.
789. THE ESTIMATED NUMBER OF PIGS IN GREAT BRITAIN is believed to be over 20 million; and, if we consider a third of them valued at £2 each, and the remaining two-thirds at a relative value of 10s. each, it would provide a marketable estimate of more than £20,000,000 for these animals alone.
790. THE BEST AND MOST HUMANE MODE OF KILLING ALL LARGE HOGS is to strike them down like a bullock, with the pointed end of a poleaxe, on the forehead, which has the effect of killing the animal at once; all the butcher has then to do, is to open the aorta and great arteries, and laying the animal's neck over a trough, let out the blood as quickly as possible. The carcase is then to be scalded, either on a board or by immersion in a tub of very hot water, and all the hair and dirt rapidly scraped off, till the skin is made perfectly white, when it is hung up, opened, and dressed, as it is called, in the usual way. It is then allowed to cool, a sheet being thrown around the carcase, to prevent the air from discolouring the newly-cleaned skin. When meant for bacon, the hair is singed instead of being scalded off.
790. THE BEST AND MOST HUMANE WAY TO KILL LARGE HOGS is to strike them down like a bull, using the pointed end of a poleaxe on the forehead, which kills the animal instantly. After that, the butcher just needs to cut open the aorta and major arteries, laying the animal's neck over a trough to let the blood out as quickly as possible. The carcass is then scalded, either on a board or by immersion in a tub of very hot water, and all the hair and dirt are quickly scraped off until the skin is perfectly white. Then, it is hung up, opened, and dressed in the usual manner. After that, it is left to cool, with a sheet thrown around the carcass to prevent the air from discoloring the freshly cleaned skin. If it's meant for bacon, the hair is singed off instead of scalded.
791. IN THE COUNTRY, where for ordinary consumption the pork killed for sale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the London consumer, it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean, and, salting that, roast what remains of the joint. Pork goes further, and is consequently a more economical food than other meats, simply because the texture is closer, and there is less waste in the cooking, either in roasting or boiling.
791. IN THE COUNTRY, where the pork available for sale is generally larger and fattier than what is provided to customers in London, it’s common to take off the skin and fat down to the lean meat, then salt it and roast the remaining part of the joint. Pork stretches further, making it a more economical food choice than other meats, simply because its texture is denser, resulting in less waste during cooking, whether roasting or boiling.
792. IN FRESH PORK, the leg is the most economical family joint, and the loin the richest.
792. IN FRESH PORK, the leg is the most budget-friendly cut for families, while the loin is the most luxurious.
793. COMPARATIVELY SPEAKING, very little difference exists between the weight of the live and dead pig, and this, simply because there is neither the head nor the hide to be removed. It has been proved that pork loses in cooking 13-1/2, per cent. of its weight. A salted hand weighing 4 lbs. 5 oz. lost in the cooking 11 oz.; after cooking, the meat weighing only 3 lbs. 1 oz., and the bone 9 oz. The original cost was 7-1/2d. a pound; but by this deduction, the cost rose to 9d. per pound with the bone, and 10-1/4d. without it.
793. COMPARATIVELY SPEAKING, there's very little difference in weight between a live pig and a dead pig, simply because the head and skin aren't removed. It's been shown that pork loses about 13.5% of its weight during cooking. A salted ham weighing 4 lbs. 5 oz. lost 11 oz. while cooking; after cooking, the meat weighed only 3 lbs. 1 oz., and the bone weighed 9 oz. The original cost was 7.5d. per pound; with this loss, the cost went up to 9d. per pound with the bone included, and 10.25d. without the bone.
794. PORK, TO BE PRESERVED, is cured in several ways,—either by covering it with salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, where it is kept till required; or it is only partially salted, and then hung up to dry, when the meat is called white bacon; or, after salting, it is hung in wood smoke till the flesh is impregnated with the aroma from the wood. The Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded as the finest in the kingdom, is prepared by laying the sides of a hog in large wooden troughs, and then rubbing into the flesh quantities of powdered bay-salt, made hot in a frying-pan. This process is repeated for four days; they are then left for three weeks, merely turning the flitches every other day. After that time they are hung up to dry. The hogs usually killed for purposes of bacon in England average from 18 to 20 stone; on the other hand, the hogs killed in the country for farm-house purposes, seldom weigh less than 26 stone. The legs of boars, hogs, and, in Germany, those of bears, are prepared differently, and called hams.
794. PORK, TO BE PRESERVED, is cured in several ways—either by covering it with salt or soaking it in ready-made brine, where it is kept until needed; or it is only partially salted and then hung up to dry, which is known as white bacon; or, after salting, it is hung in wood smoke until the meat absorbs the wood's aroma. The Wiltshire bacon, considered the finest in the country, is made by placing the sides of a pig in large wooden troughs and rubbing in plenty of hot powdered bay salt. This process is repeated for four days, and then the meat is left for three weeks, with the flitches turned every other day. After that, they are hung up to dry. The pigs typically slaughtered for bacon in England weigh between 18 to 20 stone, while those killed on farms usually weigh at least 26 stone. The legs of wild boars, pigs, and, in Germany, bears, are prepared differently and are called hams.
795. THE PRACTICE IN VOGUE FORMERLY in this country was to cut out the hams and cure them separately; then to remove the ribs, which were roasted as "spare-ribs," and, curing the remainder of the side, call it a "gammon of bacon."
795. THE PRACTICE THAT USED TO BE COMMON in this country was to cut out the hams and cure them separately; then remove the ribs, which were roasted as "spare ribs," and cure the rest of the side, calling it a "gammon of bacon."
Small pork to cut for table in joints, is cut up, in most places throughout the kingdom, as represented in the engraving. The sale is divided with nine ribs to the fore quarter; and the following is an enumeration of the joints in the two respective quarters:—
Small pork to serve at the table is usually butchered into joints, as shown in the illustration. The sale is divided with nine ribs in the front quarter; here is a list of the joints in the two respective quarters:—
1. The leg.
HIND QUARTER 2. The loin.
3. The spring, or belly.
1. The leg.
HIND QUARTER 2. The loin.
3. The spring, or belly.
4. The hand.
FORE QUARTER 5. The fore-loin.
6. The cheek.
4. The hand.
FORE QUARTER 5. The fore-loin.
6. The cheek.
[Illustration: SIDE OF A PIG, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
[Illustration: SIDE OF A PIG, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of four stone may be as follows; viz.:—
The weight of the various joints of a good pork pig weighing four stone may be as follows:—
The leg 8 lbs.
The loin and spring 7 lbs.
The hand 6 lbs.
The chine 7 lbs.
The cheek from 2 to 3 lbs.
The leg 8 lbs.
The loin and spring 7 lbs.
The hand 6 lbs.
The chine 7 lbs.
The cheek from 2 to 3 lbs.
Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for curing, and when cured are called hams: when the meat is separated from the shoulder-blade and bones and cured, it is called bacon. The bones, with part of the meat left on them, are divided into spare-ribs, griskins, and chines.
Of a pig used for bacon, the legs are set aside for curing, and once cured, they are known as hams. When the meat is taken off the shoulder blade and bones and cured, it’s called bacon. The bones, with some meat still attached, are divided into spare ribs, bits of meat, and ribs.
CHAPTER XVII.
PORK CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).
Pork Cutlets (Cold Meat Cooking).
796. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast loin of pork, 1 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar and mustard.
796. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast pork loin, 1 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 dessert spoon of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoon of vinegar and mustard.
Mode.—Cut the pork into nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat, and chop the onions. Put the butter into a stewpan, lay in the cutlets and chopped onions, and fry a light brown; then add the remaining ingredients, simmer gently for 5 or 7 minutes, and serve.
Mode.—Slice the pork into well-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat, and chop the onions. Melt the butter in a pot, add the cutlets and chopped onions, and sauté until they're lightly browned; then mix in the remaining ingredients, let it simmer gently for 5 to 7 minutes, and serve.
Time.—5 to 7 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
Time.—5 to 7 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d.
Seasonable from October to March.
Seasonal from October to March.
AUSTRIAN METHOD OF HERDING PIGS.—In the Austrian empire there are great numbers of wild swine, while, among the wandering tribes peopling the interior of Hungary, and spreading over the vast steppes of that country, droves of swine form a great portion of the wealth of the people, who chiefly live on a coarse bread and wind-dried bacon.
AUSTRIAN METHOD OF HERDING PIGS.—In the Austrian empire, there are a large number of wild pigs, and among the nomadic tribes living in the interior of Hungary, which spans the vast plains of that nation, herds of pigs make up a significant part of the people's wealth, who mainly sustain themselves on rough bread and air-dried bacon.
In German Switzerland, the Tyrol, and other mountainous districts of continental Europe, though the inhabitants, almost everywhere, as in England, keep one or more pigs, they are at little or no trouble in feeding them, one or more men being employed by one or several villages as swine-herds; who, at a certain hour, every morning, call for the pig or pigs, and driving them to their feeding-grounds on the mountain-side and in the wood, take custody of the herd till, on the approach of night, they are collected into a compact body and driven home for a night's repose in their several sties.
In German-speaking Switzerland, the Tyrol, and other mountainous areas of continental Europe, the locals, like in England, often keep one or more pigs. However, they don't have much trouble feeding them. One or more men are hired by one or several villages as swineherds. Every morning at a set time, they call for the pigs and lead them to their feeding areas on the mountainside and in the woods. They look after the herd until evening when they gather them together and drive them home for the night to rest in their respective sties.
The amount of intelligence and docility displayed by the pigs in these mountain regions, is much more considerable than that usually allowed to this animal, and the manner in which these immense herds of swine are collected, and again distributed, without an accident or mistake, is a sight both curious and interesting; for it is all done without the assistance of a dog, or the aid even of the human voice, and solely by the crack of the long-lashed and heavily-loaded whip, which the swine-herd carries, and cracks much after the fashion of the French postilion; and which, though he frequently cracks, waking a hundred sharp echoes from the woods and rocks, he seldom has to use correctionally; the animal soon acquiring a thorough knowledge of the meaning of each crack; and once having felt its leaded thong, a lasting remembrance of its power. At early dawn, the swine-herd takes his stand at the outskirts of the first village, and begins flourishing through the misty air his immensely long lash, keeping a sort of rude time with the crack, crack, crack, crack, crack, crack of his whip. The nearest pigs, hearing the well-remembered sound, rouse from their straw, and rush from their sties into the road, followed by all their litters. As soon as a sufficient number are collected, the drove is set in motion, receiving, right and left, as they advance, fresh numbers; whole communities, or solitary individuals, streaming in from all quarters, and taking their place, without distinction, in the general herd; and, as if conscious where their breakfast lay, without wasting a moment on idle investigation, all eagerly push on to the mountains. In this manner village after village is collected, till the drove not unfrequently consists of several thousands. The feeding-ground has, of course, often to be changed, and the drove have sometimes to be driven many miles, and to a considerable height up the mountain, before the whip gives the signal for the dispersion of the body and the order to feed, when the herdsman proceeds to form himself a shelter, and look after his own comfort for the rest of the day. As soon as twilight sets in, the whip is again heard echoing the signal for muster; and in the same order in which they were collected, the swine are driven back, each group tailing off to its respective sty, as the herd approaches the villages, till the last grunter, having found his home, the drover seeks his cottage and repose.
The intelligence and docility shown by the pigs in these mountain areas is much more impressive than most people give this animal credit for. The way these large herds of swine are gathered and redistributed, without any accidents or mistakes, is both fascinating and intriguing. It's done entirely without the help of a dog or even human voice, relying solely on the crack of the long whip that the swineherd carries, cracking it like a French postilion. Although he cracks it often, stirring up echoes from the woods and rocks, he rarely has to use it for correction; the pigs quickly learn what each crack means, and once they feel its weight, they remember its power. At dawn, the swineherd stands at the edge of the first village and starts to swing his long whip through the mist, keeping a rhythm with the sound of the crack, crack, crack, crack, crack. The closest pigs, recognizing the familiar sound, wake up from their straw and rush out of their pens into the road, followed by their young. Once a sufficient number are gathered, the herd starts moving, picking up more pigs from the right and left as they go, with entire communities or lone individuals joining in from all directions, seamlessly blending into the herd. As if they know where their breakfast is, they waste no time exploring and head straight for the mountains. This process continues from village to village until the herd often numbers in the thousands. The feeding ground must frequently change, and the herd sometimes has to be driven several miles and up a significant height before the whip signals them to disperse and eat. After this, the herdsman sets up a shelter and takes care of his own comfort for the rest of the day. As twilight falls, the whip once again sounds the call for them to gather, and in the same order they were collected, the pigs are driven back, with each group returning to its respective sty as they near the villages. Finally, when the last pig finds its home, the drover heads back to his cottage to rest.
PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS.
I.
797. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of pork, pepper and salt to taste.
797. INGREDIENTS.—Pork loin, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and trim them neatly, and cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season them with pepper; place the gridiron on the fire; when quite hot, lay on the chops and broil them for about 1/4 hour, turning them 3 or 4 times; and be particular that they are thoroughly done, but not dry. Dish them, sprinkle over a little fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato sauce, sauce piquante, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets from a tender loin of pork, remove the bones and trim them neatly, cutting away most of the fat. Season with pepper; place the grill on the heat; when it's really hot, lay the chops on and grill them for about 15 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times; make sure they are thoroughly cooked but not dry. Plate them, sprinkle a little fine salt on top, and serve plain or with tomato sauce, spicy sauce, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should be arranged around the dish as a garnish.
Time.—About 1/4 hour. Average cost, 10d. per lb. for chops.
Time.—About 15 minutes. Average cost, 10p per lb. for chops.
Sufficient.—Allow 6 for 4 persons.
Enough.—Allow 6 for 4 people.
Seasonable from October to March.
Seasonal from October to March.
II.
(Another Way.)
(Another Way.)
798. INGREDIENTS.—Loin or fore-loin, of pork, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste; to every tablespoonful of bread crumbs allow 1/2 teaspoonful of minced sage; clarified butter.
798. INGREDIENTS.—Pork loin or fore-loin, egg, and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste; for every tablespoon of bread crumbs, use 1/2 teaspoon of minced sage; clarified butter.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets from a loin, or fore-loin, of pork; trim them the same as mutton cutlets, and scrape the top part of the bone. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed minced sage and a seasoning of pepper and salt; drop a little clarified butter on them, and press the crumbs well down. Put the frying-pan on the fire, put in some lard; when this is hot, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a light brown on both sides. Take them out, put them before the fire to dry the greasy moisture from them, and dish them on mashed potatoes. Serve with them any sauce that may be preferred; such as tomato sauce, sauce piquante, sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets from a loin or fore-loin of pork; trim them just like you would mutton cutlets and scrape the top part of the bone. Brush them with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with minced sage and a pinch of pepper and salt; add a little clarified butter on top and press the crumbs down well. Put the frying pan on the heat and add some lard; when it's hot, place the cutlets in and fry them until they're lightly browned on both sides. Remove them and set them in front of the fire to dry off any excess grease, then serve them on a bed of mashed potatoes. You can serve any sauce you prefer with them, like tomato sauce, sauce piquante, sauce Robert, or pickled gherkins.
Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb. for chops.
Time.—About 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb. for chops.
Sufficient.—Allow 6 cutlets for 4 persons.
Sufficient.—Prepare 6 cutlets for 4 people.
Seasonable from October to March.
Available from October to March.
Note.—The remains of roast loin of pork may be dressed in the same manner.
Note.—The leftovers of roast pork loin can be prepared in the same way.
PORK CHEESE (an Excellent Breakfast Dish).
PORK CHEESE (a great breakfast dish).
799. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of cold roast pork, pepper and salt to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very small bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, a little nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; good strong gravy, sufficient to fill the mould.
799. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of cold roast pork, salt and pepper to taste, 1 dessert spoon of chopped parsley, 4 sage leaves, a tiny bunch of savory herbs, 2 blades of ground mace, a pinch of nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel; good strong gravy, enough to fill the mold.
Mode.—Cut, but do not chop, the pork into fine pieces, and allow 1/4 lb. of fat to each pound of lean. Season with pepper and salt; pound well the spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, herbs, and lemon-peel, and mix the whole nicely together. Put it into a mould, fill up with good strong well-flavoured gravy, and bake rather more than one hour. When cold, turn it out of the mould.
Mode.—Slice the pork into small pieces, but don’t chop it too finely. Use 1/4 lb. of fat for each pound of lean meat. Season with pepper and salt; crush the spices well, and chop the parsley, sage, herbs, and lemon peel finely, then mix everything together thoroughly. Place it in a mold, fill it up with rich, flavorful gravy, and bake for just over an hour. Once it’s cool, turn it out of the mold.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour.
Duration.—Just over 1 hour.
Seasonable from October to March.
In season from October to March.
ROAST LEG OF PORK.
[Illustration: ROAST LEG OF PORK.]
[Illustration: Roasted Pork Leg.]
800. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of pork, a little oil for stuffing. (See Recipe No. 504.)
800. INGREDIENTS.—Pork leg, a bit of oil for stuffing. (See Recipe No. 504.)
Mode.—Choose a small leg of pork, and score the skin across in narrow strips, about 1/4 inch apart. Cut a slit in the knuckle, loosen the skin, and fill it with a sage-and-onion stuffing, made by Recipe No. 504. Brush the joint over with a little salad-oil (this makes the crackling crisper, and a better colour), and put it down to a bright, clear fire, not too near, as that would cause the skin to blister. Baste it well, and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, and do not omit to send to table with it a tureen of well-made apple-sauce. (Sec No. 363.)
Method.—Pick a small leg of pork and make shallow cuts in the skin, about 1/4 inch apart. Cut a slit in the knuckle, loosen the skin, and stuff it with sage-and-onion stuffing, following Recipe No. 504. Brush the joint with a little salad oil (this makes the crackling crispier and gives it a better color), and place it over a bright, clear fire, but not too close, as that could cause the skin to blister. Baste it well, and serve with some gravy made in the dripping pan, and don’t forget to bring a tureen of well-made apple sauce to the table. (See No. 363.)
Time.—A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., about 3 hours.
Time.—An 8 lb. leg of pork, roughly 3 hours.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Seasonal from September to March.
ENGLISH MODE OF HUNTING, AND INDIAN PIG-STICKING.—The hunting of the wild boar has been in all times, and in all countries, a pastime of the highest interest and excitement, and from the age of Nimrod, has only been considered second to the more dangerous sport of lion-hunting. The buried treasures of Nineveh, restored to us by Mr. Layard, show us, on their sculptured annals, the kings of Assyria in their royal pastime of boar-hunting. That the Greeks were passionately attached to this sport, we know both from history and the romantic fables of the poets. Marc Antony, at one of his breakfasts with Cleopatra, had eight wild boars roasted whole; and though the Romans do not appear to have been addicted to hunting, wild-boar fights formed part of their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In France, Germany, and Britain, from the earliest time, the boar-hunt formed one of the most exciting of sports; but it was only in this country that the sport was conducted without dogs,—a real hand-to-hand contest of man and beast; the hunter, armed only with a boar-spear, a weapon about four feet long, the ash staff, guarded by plates of steel, and terminating in a long, narrow, and very sharp blade: this, with a hunting-knife, or hanger, completed his offensive arms. Thus equipped, the hunter would either encounter his enemy face to face, confront his desperate charge, as with erect tail, depressed head, and flaming eyes, he rushed with his foamy tusks full against him, who either sought to pierce his vitals through his counter, or driving his spear through his chine, transfix his heart; or failing those more difficult aims, plunge it into his flank, and, without withdrawing the weapon, strike his ready hanger into his throat. But expert as the hunter might be, it was not often the formidable brute was so quickly dispatched; for he would sometimes seize the spear in his powerful teeth, and nip it off like a reed, or, coming full tilt on his enemy, by his momentum and weight bear him to the earth, ripping up, with a horrid gash, his leg or side, and before the writhing hunter could draw his knife, the infuriated beast would plunge his snout in the wound, and rip, with savage teeth, the bowels of his victim. At other times, he would suddenly swerve from his charge, and doubling on his opponent, attack the hunter in the rear. From his speed, great weight, and savage disposition, the wild boar is always a dangerous antagonist, and requires great courage, coolness, and agility on the part of the hunter. The continental sportsman rides to the chase in a cavalcade, with music and dogs,—a kind of small hound or mastiff, and leaving all the honorary part of the contest to them, when the boar is becoming weary, and while beset by the dogs, rides up, and drives his lance home in the beast's back or side. Boar-hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in England, the animal no longer existing in a wild state among us; but in our Indian empire, and especially in Bengal, the pastime is pursued by our countrymen with all the daring of the national character; and as the animal which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe, the sport is attended with great excitement. The hunters, mounted on small, active horses, and armed only with long lances, ride, at early daylight, to the skirts of the jungle, and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait till the tusked monster comes crashing from among the canes, when chase is immediately given, till he is come up with, and transfixed by the first weapon. Instead of flight, however, he often turns to bay, and by more than one dead horse and wounded hunter, shows how formidable he is, and what those polished tusks, sharp as pitch-forks, can effect, when the enraged animal defends his life.
ENGLISH MODE OF HUNTING, AND INDIAN PIG-STICKING.—Hunting wild boar has always been a thrilling and exciting pastime in every culture, second only to the more perilous sport of lion-hunting since the time of Nimrod. The treasures of Nineveh, unearthed by Mr. Layard, depict Assyrian kings enjoying boar-hunting as a royal pastime. We know the Greeks loved this sport through both history and the romantic tales of their poets. At one of his breakfasts with Cleopatra, Marc Antony had eight wild boars roasted whole; although Romans weren't particularly fond of hunting, wild boar fights were a part of their gladiatorial games in the amphitheater. In France, Germany, and Britain, wild boar hunting has been one of the most exciting sports since ancient times; however, it was only in Britain that the sport was done without dogs—making it a true hand-to-hand contest between man and beast. The hunter, armed only with a boar spear about four feet long, made of ash and protected by steel plates with a long, narrow, and sharp blade at the end, would also carry a hunting knife or hanger as a secondary weapon. Equipped this way, the hunter faced the wild boar head-on as it charged at him with its tail erect, head down, and eyes blazing while attempting to stab it through the heart or side. Failing that, he would plunge the spear into its flank and then quickly strike with the knife to finish the job. Yet, despite the hunter's skill, the ferocious boar was not easily dispatched; it might bite the spear in half with its strong jaws or, by sheer weight and momentum, knock the hunter to the ground, leaving him vulnerable. Before the struggling hunter could draw his knife, the furious boar would sometimes gore him with its snout and tear into his insides with its savage teeth. At other times, the boar would suddenly change direction and attack the hunter from behind. Given its speed, weight, and aggressive nature, the wild boar is always a dangerous opponent, demanding great courage, composure, and agility from the hunter. On the continent, hunters typically participate in a chase alongside music and dogs—like small hounds or mastiffs—leaving the dogs to tire out the boar, after which the hunter rides up to drive his lance into the animal's back or side. Although boar hunting has been largely absent in England for centuries, as wild boar no longer exist there, in our Indian empire, especially in Bengal, our countrymen engage in this daring sport with all the audacity emblematic of their national character. The wild boar that inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles poses a formidable challenge, making this pastime particularly exhilarating. Hunters, mounted on small, agile horses and armed only with long lances, set out at dawn to the edges of the jungle. They send attendants to flush out the boar and wait for the tusked beast to emerge, initiating a chase until the first weapon strikes home. Instead of fleeing, however, the boar often turns to face its pursuers and demonstrates its ferocity by sending more than one horse to the ground and injuring hunters, proving how lethal those sharp tusks can be when the enraged animal fights for its life.
TO GLAZE HAM.—(See Recipe No. 430.)
TO GLAZE HAM.—(See Recipe No. 430.)
HASHED PORK.
801. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste.
801. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1 teaspoon of flour, 2 blades of ground mace, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, 1/2 pint of gravy, pepper, and salt to taste.
Mode.—Chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown, cut the pork into thin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to the remaining ingredients. Stew gently for about 1/2 hour, and serve garnished with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Chop the onions and fry them until they’re nicely browned, cut the pork into thin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to the other ingredients. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes, and serve garnished with pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 3d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 3d.
Seasonable from October to March.
Seasonal from October to March.
FRIED RASHERS OF BACON AND POACHED EGGS.
802. INGREDIENTS.—Bacon; eggs.
802. INGREDIENTS.—Bacon; eggs.
Mode.—Cut the bacon into thin slices, trim away the rusty parts, and cut off the rind. Put it into a cold frying-pan, that is to say, do not place the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3 times, and dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs and slip them on to the bacon, without breaking the yolks, and serve quickly.
Mode.—Slice the bacon thinly, remove any spoiled bits, and cut off the rind. Place it in a cold frying pan, meaning don’t heat the pan before adding the bacon. Turn it 2 or 3 times, then transfer it to a very hot plate. Poach the eggs and carefully place them on the bacon without breaking the yolks, then serve immediately.
Time.—3 or 4 minutes. Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.
Time.—3 or 4 minutes. Average cost, 10p to 1s. per lb. for the best parts.
Sufficient.—Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons.
Sufficient.—Use 6 eggs for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable at any time.
Note.—Fried rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a pretty garnish to many dishes; and, for small families, answer very well as a substitute for boiled bacon, to serve with a small dish of poultry, &c.
Note.—Crispy strips of bacon, curled, make a nice garnish for many dishes; and for smaller families, they work well as a substitute for boiled bacon to accompany a small dish of chicken, etc.
BROILED RASHERS OF BACON (a Breakfast Dish).
BROILED RASHERS OF BACON (a Breakfast Dish).
803. Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free from rust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour; and for broiling, the streaked part of the thick flank, is generally the most esteemed. Cut it into thin slices, take off the rind, and broil over a nice clear fire; turn it 2 or 3 times, and serve very hot. Should there be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very well for breakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried.
803. Before buying bacon, make sure it’s completely free of rust, which you can easily spot by its yellow color. For broiling, the striped part of the thick flank is usually the most preferred. Cut it into thin slices, remove the rind, and broil it over a nice clear fire; turn it 2 to 3 times, and serve it very hot. If there’s any cold bacon left from the day before, it’s great for breakfast when cut into slices and either broiled or fried.
Time.—3 or 4 minutes.
Time—3 to 4 minutes.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.
Average cost, 10 pence to 1 shilling per pound for the best cuts.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Note.—When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled round and fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted before the fire.
Note.—When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices can be curled around and secured with small skewers, then fried or toasted in front of the fire.
BOILED BACON.
804. INGREDIENTS.—Bacon; water.
804. INGREDIENTS.—Bacon; water.
[Illustration: BOILED BACON.]
[Illustration: BOILED BACON.]
Mode.—As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off the rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put it into a saucepan of cold water, let it come gradually to a boil, and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it. Let it simmer very gently until it is thoroughly done; then take it up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread raspings, and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the usual accompaniments.
Mode. — Since bacon is often really salty, soak it in warm water for an hour or two before cooking it. Then, trim off any rusty spots and scrape the underside and rind as clean as you can. Place it in a saucepan with cold water, allowing it to gradually come to a boil. As the scum forms on the surface, remove it. Let it simmer very gently until it’s fully cooked; then take it out, remove the skin, and sprinkle a little bread crumbs over the bacon. Garnish with florets of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served on its own, the usual sides are young and tender broad beans or green peas.
Time.—1 lb. of bacon, 1/4 hour; 2 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—1 lb. of bacon, 15 minutes; 2 lbs., 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.
Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the best cuts.
Sufficient.—2 lbs., when served with poultry or veal, sufficient for 10 persons.
Sufficient.—2 lbs., when served with chicken or veal, enough for 10 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.
805. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of coarse sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of bay-salt, 6 oz. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.
805. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lb. of coarse sugar, 1.5 lb. of bay salt, 6 oz. of saltpeter, 1 lb. of regular salt.
Mode.—Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for 24 hours; then pound and mix the above ingredients well together and rub it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a month; then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days.
Mode.—Sprinkle each piece with salt and let the blood drain for 24 hours; then mash and mix the ingredients thoroughly and rub it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a month; then hang it up to dry and smoke it for 10 days.
Time.—To remain in the pickle 1 month, to be smoked 10 days.
Time.—Leave in the brine for 1 month, then smoke for 10 days.
Sufficient.—The above quantity of salt for 1 pig.
Sufficient.—The amount of salt mentioned is enough for 1 pig.
HOW PIGS WERE FORMERLY PASTURED AND FED.—Though unquestionably far greater numbers of swine are now kept in England than formerly, every peasant having one or more of that useful animal, in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept by the franklings and barons; in those days the swine-herds being a regular part of the domestic service of every feudal household, their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest woods, chase, or forest, where the frankling or vavasour had, either by right or grant, what was called free warren, or the liberty to feed his hogs off the acorns, beech, and chestnuts that lay in such abundance on the earth, and far exceeded the power of the royal or privileged game to consume. Indeed, it was the license granted the nobles of free warren, especially for their swine, that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date, and covered so large a portion of the land with such immense tracts of wood and brake, to the injury of agriculture and the misery of the people. Some idea of the extent to which swine were grazed in the feudal times, may be formed by observing the number of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean, and the New Forest, in Hampshire, where, for several months of the year, the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so plentiful a diet. In Germany, where the chestnut is so largely cultivated, the amount of food shed every autumn is enormous; and consequently the pig, both wild and domestic, has, for a considerable portion of the year, an unfailing supply of admirable nourishment. Impressed with the value of this fruit for the food of pigs, the Prince Consort has, with great judgment, of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in Windsor Park, and by giving a small reward to old people and children for every bushel collected, has not only found an occupation for many of the unemployed poor, but, by providing a gratuitous food for their pig, encouraged a feeling of providence and economy.
HOW PIGS WERE FORMERLY PASTURED AND FED.—Even though many more pigs are kept in England now than in the past, with every peasant having one or more of these useful animals, in feudal times, huge herds of pigs were maintained by the freemen and lords. Back then, swineherds were a standard part of the domestic help in every feudal household. Their job was to drive the pig herd from the castle yard or nearby farm to the closest woods, chase, or forest, where the freeman or vavasour had the privilege, either by right or grant, known as free warren, allowing them to let their hogs feed on the abundant acorns, beech nuts, and chestnuts on the ground, which far surpassed what the royal or privileged game could consume. In fact, it was the license granted to nobles for free warren, especially for their pigs, that upheld the unfair forest laws for so long and covered vast areas of land with extensive woods and scrub, harming agriculture and causing distress for the people. One can get a sense of how extensively pigs were grazed in feudal times by looking at the number of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean, and the New Forest in Hampshire, where, for months each year, beech nuts and acorns provide them with plenty of food. In Germany, where chestnuts are widely grown, the amount of food that falls every autumn is huge; as a result, both wild and domestic pigs have a reliable supply of excellent nutrition for much of the year. Recognizing the value of this fruit as pig feed, the Prince Consort has wisely promoted the collection of chestnuts in Windsor Park. By offering a small reward to the elderly and children for every bushel collected, he has not only provided work for many unemployed people but also, by supplying free food for their pigs, encouraged a sense of resourcefulness and thriftiness.
FOR CURING BACON, AND KEEPING IT FREE FROM RUST (Cobbett's Recipe).
FOR CURING BACON AND KEEPING IT RUST-FREE (Cobbett's Recipe).
806. THE TWO SIDES THAT REMAIN, and which are called flitches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, in a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away the brine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel and sea pork have. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state; therefore change the salt often,—once in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink in, but not lie too long; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was first on the top: this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances. It takes a longer time for a thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than in damp weather, or in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or damp, about 6 weeks may do; and as yours is to be fat, which receives little injury from over-salting, give time enough, for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again.
806. THE TWO SIDES THAT REMAIN, known as flitches, are to be cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or flesh sides, then stacked on top of each other, flesh sides up, in a salting trough that has a channel around its edges to drain away the brine. To ensure the bacon is sweet and flavorful, the flitches must not be soaking in brine, as that gives it the unpleasant taste associated with barrel or sea pork. Everyone knows that fresh dry salt tastes different from salt in a dissolved state; so change the salt frequently—every 4 or 5 days—allow it to melt and absorb, but don’t leave it too long. Change the flitches twice, placing the one that was on the top to the bottom. This method will cost significantly more in salt than just letting it soak, but without it, your bacon won’t be as sweet or last as long. The time needed to properly salt your flitches depends on various factors. Thicker flitches will take longer than thinner ones, and it also takes longer in dry weather than in damp. For a hog that weighs around 100 pounds, in weather that’s neither too dry nor too damp, about 6 weeks should suffice. Since yours is to be fat, which isn’t harmed much by over-salting, be generous with the time—after all, you’ll want bacon to last until Christmas.
807. THE PLACE FOR SALTING SHOULD, like a dairy, always be cool, but well ventilated; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than the midday day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them; and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, or coal. As to the time required to smoke a flitch, it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath; and whether the fire be large or small: a month will do, if the fire be pretty constant and rich, as a farmhouse fire usually is; but over-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it: this keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust to be dried on.
807. The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool but well-ventilated; stagnant air, even if cool, will spoil meat faster than the midday sun with a breeze. When it comes to smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, hang the strips where no rain can reach them; and second, the smoke must come from wood, not peat, turf, or coal. The time needed to smoke a strip largely depends on whether there is a constant fire below and the size of that fire: a month is sufficient if the fire is fairly consistent and rich, as a farmhouse fire typically is; however, over-smoking, or rather leaving it hanging in the air too long, can cause the bacon to rust, so pay close attention to this. The strip should not be dried so hard that it's like a board, but it should be completely dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor and sprinkle the flesh side liberally with bran or fine sawdust, avoiding deal or fir; rub it into the flesh or press it down well. This helps keep the smoke from getting into the tiny openings and creates a sort of crust to dry on.
808. To KEEP THE BACON SWEET AND GOOD, and free from hoppers, sift fine some clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon; lay in one flitch, and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp, they should be put in the fireplace to dry, and when cold, put back again. With these precautions, the bacon will be as good at the end of the year as on the first day.
808. To keep the bacon fresh and free from pests, sift some clean, dry wood ashes. Place some at the bottom of a box or chest that's long enough to hold a side of bacon; lay in one side, then add more ashes, followed by another side, and cover this with six to eight inches of ashes. The location of the box or chest should be dry, and if the ashes get damp, heat them in the fireplace to dry them out, and once they're cool, put them back in. With these precautions, the bacon will stay just as good at the end of the year as it was on the first day.
809. FOR SIMPLE GENERAL RULES; these may be safely taken as a guide; and those who implicitly follow the directions given, will possess at the expiration of from 6 weeks to 2 months well-flavoured and well-cured bacon.
809. FOR SIMPLE GENERAL RULES; these can be taken as a reliable guide; and those who strictly follow the given instructions will have well-flavored and properly cured bacon after about 6 weeks to 2 months.
HOG NOT BACON. ANECDOTE OF LORD BACON.—As Lord Bacon, on one occasion, was about to pass sentence of death upon a man of the name of Hogg, who had just been tried for a long career of crime, the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in arrest of judgment, saying, with an expression of arch confidence as he addressed the bench, "I claim indulgence, my lord, on the plea of relationship; for I am convinced your lordship will never be unnatural enough to hang one of your own family."
HOG NOT BACON. ANECDOTE OF LORD BACON.—One time, as Lord Bacon was about to sentence a man named Hogg to death for a long history of crimes, the prisoner suddenly asked to be heard before the judgment was finalized. He confidently addressed the bench, saying, "I ask for mercy, my lord, based on our relationship; I’m sure you would never be cruel enough to hang a member of your own family."
"Indeed, replied the judge, with some amazement," I was not aware that I had the honour of your alliance; perhaps you will be good enough to name the degree of our mutual affinity."
"Indeed," the judge replied, somewhat amazed, "I wasn't aware that I had the honor of your connection; perhaps you could kindly specify the degree of our relationship."
"I am sorry, my lord," returned the impudent thief, "I cannot trace the links of consanguinity; but the moral evidence is sufficiently pertinent. My name, my lord, is Hogg, your lordship's is Bacon; and all the world will allow that bacon and hog are very closely allied."
"I’m sorry, my lord," replied the cheeky thief, "I can't figure out the family connections, but the moral evidence is definitely relevant. My name, my lord, is Hogg, and your lordship’s is Bacon; and everyone will agree that bacon and hog are very closely related."
"I am sorry," replied his lordship, "I cannot admit the truth of your instance: hog cannot be bacon till it is hanged; and so, before I can admit your plea, or acknowledge the family compact, Hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning."
"I'm sorry," his lordship replied, "but I can't accept the validity of your argument: a pig can't become bacon until it's hung; so, before I can accept your plea or recognize the family agreement, Hogg has to be hung tomorrow morning."
TO BAKE A HAM.
810. INGREDIENTS.—Ham; a common crust.
810. INGREDIENTS.—Ham; a regular crust.
Mode.—As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in water for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty places underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this is of sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in. Place it in a moderately-heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the crust, and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham, and garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. This method of cooking a ham is, by many persons, considered far superior to boiling it, as it cuts fuller of gravy and has a finer flavour, besides keeping a much longer time good.
Mode.—To prepare a ham for baking, start by soaking it in water for at least 12 hours. Once soaked, wipe it dry, remove any rusty spots from underneath, and cover it with a basic crust, ensuring it's thick enough all around to keep the juices in. Place it in a moderately heated oven and bake for nearly 4 hours. After baking, remove the crust and skin, then cover the ham with breadcrumbs, just like you would for boiled ham, and decorate the knuckle with a paper frill. Many people consider this baking method to be much better than boiling, as it retains more juices and has a richer flavor, plus it stays good for a much longer time.
Time.—A medium-sized ham, 4 hours.
Cooking Time.—A medium-sized ham, 4 hours.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
TO BOIL A HAM.
[Illustration: BOILED HAM.]
[Illustration: BOILED HAM.]
811. INGREDIENTS.—Ham, water, glaze or raspings.
811. INGREDIENTS.—Ham, water, glaze, or breadcrumbs.
Mode.—In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone; and if, when the knife is withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; if, on the contrary, the blade has a greasy appearance and offensive smell, the ham is bad. If it has been long hung, and is very dry and salt, let it remain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently. This length of time is only necessary in the case of its being very hard; from 8 to 12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham. Wash it thoroughly clean, and trim away from the under-side, all the rusty and smoked parts, which would spoil the appearance. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it; bring it gradually to boil, and as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Keep it simmering very gently until tender, and be careful that it does not stop boiling, nor boil too quickly. When done, take it out of the pot, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over it a few fine bread-raspings, put a frill of cut paper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold, let the ham remain in the water until nearly cold: by this method the juices are kept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken out of the water hot; it should, however, be borne in mind that the ham must not remain in the saucepan all night. When the skin is removed, sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted particularly nice, glaze it. Place a paper frill round the knuckle, and garnish with parsley or cut vegetable flowers. (See Coloured Plate P.)
Mode.—When picking a ham, make sure it’s completely sweet by inserting a sharp knife near the bone. If it has a pleasant smell when you pull the knife out, the ham is good; if the blade looks greasy and has a bad smell, then the ham is bad. If it's been hanging for a long time and is really dry and salty, soak it for 24 hours, changing the water often. This is only necessary if it's very tough; for a Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham, 8 to 12 hours should be enough. Clean it thoroughly and trim off any rusty or smoky parts underneath that could spoil its look. Put the ham in a pot with enough cold water to cover it; bring it to a boil gradually, and remove any scum that rises to the surface. Keep it simmering gently until it’s tender, making sure it doesn’t boil too fast or stop boiling altogether. When it’s ready, take it out of the pot, peel off the skin, and sprinkle some fine bread crumbs over it. Put a frill of paper around the knuckle and serve. If you’re serving it cold, let the ham sit in the water until it’s almost cool. This keeps the juices in and makes it much better than taking it out hot. However, remember that the ham should not stay in the saucepan all night. After removing the skin, sprinkle bread crumbs on it, or if you want it to look especially nice, glaze it. Add a paper frill around the knuckle and garnish with parsley or cut vegetable flowers. (See Coloured Plate P.)
Time.—A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to simmer gently; 15 lbs., 5 hours; a very large one, about 5 hours.
Time.—A ham weighing 10 lbs. should simmer gently for 4 hours; 15 lbs. for 5 hours; and a very large one for about 5 hours.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
Average cost, from 8p to 10p per lb. for the whole ham.
Seasonable all the year.
Always in season.
HOW TO BOIL A HAM TO GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT FLAVOUR.
812. INGREDIENTS.—Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3 onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs.
812. INGREDIENTS.—Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery, 2 turnips, 3 onions, a large bunch of savory herbs.
Mode.—Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak for a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when it boils, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.
Method.—Prepare the ham as in the previous recipe, and let it soak for a few hours in a vinegar and water mixture. Place it in cold water, and when it begins to boil, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer gently until tender, remove it, take off the skin, cover with bread crumbs, and place a paper frill around the knuckle.
Time.—A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours.
Time.—A ham that weighs 10 lbs. takes 4 hours to cook.
Average cost, 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
Average cost, 8 to 10 pence per pound for the whole ham.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
HOW TO SILENCE A PIG. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES V.—When the emperor Charles V. was one day walking in the neighbourhood of Vienna, full of pious considerations, engendered by the thoughts of the Dominican cloister he was about to visit, he was much annoyed by the noise of a pig, which a country youth was carrying a little way before him. At length, irritated by the unmitigated noise, "Have you not learned how to quiet a pig" demanded the imperial traveller, tartly. "Noa," replied the ingenuous peasant, ignorant of the quality of his interrogator;—"noa; and I should very much like to know how to do it," changing the position of his burthen, and giving his load a surreptitious pinch of the ear, which immediately altered the tone and volume of his complaining.
HOW TO SILENCE A PIG. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES V.—One day, while the emperor Charles V. was walking near Vienna, lost in the pious thoughts inspired by the Dominican monastery he was about to visit, he was really annoyed by the noise of a pig that a local boy was carrying a little ahead of him. Finally, fed up with the constant racket, he snapped, "Haven't you learned how to quiet a pig?" The unsuspecting peasant replied, "No, and I’d really like to know how to do that," as he shifted the weight of his burden and gave the pig a discreet pinch on the ear, which instantly changed the pig's tone and volume of complaining.
"Why, take the pig by the tail," said the emperor, "and you will see how quiet he will become."
"Why, grab the pig by the tail," said the emperor, "and you'll see how calm he will get."
Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman at once dangled his noisy companion by the tail, and soon discovered that, under the partial congestion caused by its inverted position, the pig had indeed become silent; when, looking with admiration on his august adviser, he exclaimed,—
Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman immediately held his noisy companion by the tail and soon found out that, due to the slight congestion from being upside down, the pig had actually become quiet; then, looking at his impressive adviser with admiration, he exclaimed,—
"Ah, you must have learned the trade much longer than I, for you understand it a great deal better."
"Ah, you must have been doing this for much longer than I have, because you understand it a lot better."
FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish).
FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish).
813. INGREDIENTS.—Ham; eggs.
813. INGREDIENTS.—Ham; eggs.
Mode.—Cut the ham into slices, and take care that they are of the same thickness in every part. Cut off the rind, and if the ham should be particularly hard and salt, it will be found an improvement to soak it for about 10 minutes in hot water, and then dry it in a cloth. Put it into a cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and turn the slices 3 or 4 times whilst they are cooking. When done, place them on a dish, which should be kept hot in front of the fire during the time the eggs are being poached. Poach the eggs, slip them on to the slices of ham, and serve quickly.
Method.—Slice the ham, making sure that all the pieces are the same thickness. Remove the rind, and if the ham is particularly tough and salty, soaking it in hot water for about 10 minutes can help improve it; then dry it with a cloth. Place the ham in a cold frying pan, put it on the heat, and turn the slices 3 or 4 times while cooking. Once cooked, transfer them to a dish, keeping it warm in front of the fire while you poach the eggs. Poach the eggs and place them on the slices of ham, then serve immediately.
Time.—7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham.
Time.—7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. by the whole ham.
Average cost, from 8p to 10p per lb. for the whole ham.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—Ham may also be toasted or broiled; but, with the latter method, to insure its being well cooked, the fire must be beautifully clear, or it will have a smoky flavour far from agreeable.
Note.—Ham can also be toasted or broiled; however, with the broiling method, to ensure it's cooked properly, the fire must be very clear, or it will have an unpleasant smoky flavor.
POTTED HAM, that will keep Good for some time.
POTTED HAM, that will stay good for a while.
I.
814. INGREDIENTS.—To 4 lbs. of lean ham allow 1 lb. of fat, 2 teaspoonfuls of pounded mace, 1/2 nutmeg grated, rather more than 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified lard.
814. INGREDIENTS.—For 4 lbs. of lean ham, use 1 lb. of fat, 2 teaspoons of ground mace, 1/2 grated nutmeg, just over 1/2 teaspoon of cayenne, and clarified lard.
Mode.—Mince the ham, fat and lean together in the above proportion, and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, pounded mace, and nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking-dish, and bake for 1/2 hour; then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the jar with clarified lard, cover it closely, and paste over it a piece of thick paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long time in winter, and will be found very convenient for sandwiches, &c.
Method.—Finely chop the ham, both fat and lean, in the proportions mentioned above, and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, ground mace, and nutmeg; place the mixture into a deep baking dish and bake for 30 minutes; then compact it firmly into a stone jar, fill the jar with clarified lard, cover it tightly, and seal it with a piece of thick paper. If properly seasoned, it can be stored for a long time in winter and will be very handy for sandwiches, etc.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
II.
(A nice addition to the Breakfast or Luncheon table.)
(A great addition to the breakfast or lunch table.)
815. INGREDIENTS.—To 2 lbs. of lean ham allow 1/2 lb. of fat, 1 teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/2 nutmeg, pepper to taste, clarified butter.
815. INGREDIENTS.—For 2 lbs. of lean ham, use 1/2 lb. of fat, 1 teaspoon of ground mace, 1/2 teaspoon of ground allspice, 1/2 nutmeg, pepper to taste, and clarified butter.
Mode.—Cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham, mince them small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean, allow the above proportion of fat. Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the fat, gradually add the seasoning and spices, and be very particular that all the ingredients are well mixed and the spices well pounded. Press the mixture into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place.
Method.—Slice some pieces from the leftover cold ham, chop them finely, and for every 2 lbs. of lean meat, use the same amount of fat. Mash the ham in a mortar until it’s a smooth paste, adding the fat gradually. Mix in the seasoning and spices carefully, making sure everything is combined and the spices are well ground. Pack the mixture into jars, pour clarified butter over it, and store it in a cool place.
Average cost for this quantity, 2s. 6d.
Average price for this quantity, £2.50.
Seasonable at any time.
Timely at any moment.
IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD, SCOTTISH FEUDS, &c.—The boar's head, in ancient times, formed the most important dish on the table, and was invariably the first placed on the board upon Christmas-day, being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish of trumpets, and other marks of distinction and reverence, and carried into the hall by the individual of next rank to the lord of the feast. At some of our colleges and inns of court, the serving of the boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas-day is a custom still followed; and till very lately, a bore's head was competed for at Christmas time by the young men of a rural parish in Essex. Indeed, so highly was the grizzly boar's head regarded in former times, that it passed into a cognizance of some of the noblest families in the realm: thus it was not only the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, with their collateral houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III., that—
IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD, SCOTTISH FEUDS, &c.—The boar's head, in ancient times, was the most important dish on the table and was always the first to be served on Christmas Day, accompanied by a group of servants, a fanfare of trumpets, and other signs of honor and respect. It was carried into the hall by the person of the next highest rank to the lord of the feast. In some of our colleges and inns of court, serving the boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas Day is still a tradition; and until very recently, young men in a rural parish in Essex competed for a boar's head during the Christmas season. In fact, the grizzly boar's head was held in such high esteem that it became a symbol for some of the most noble families in the country: it was not only the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, along with their related houses, but it was also the emblem of Richard III.
"Wretched, bloody, and usurping boar,
That spoil'd your summer fields and fruitful vines,
Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes his trough
In your embowell'd bosoms,"—
"Wretched, bloody, and stealing boar,
That ruined your summer fields and fruitful vines,
Drinks your warm blood like water, and makes his trough
In your hollowed bodies,"—
and whose nature it was supposed to typify; and was universally used as a sign to taverns. The Boar's Head in Eastcheap, which, till within the last twenty-five years still stood in all its primitive quaintness, though removed to make way for the London-bridge approaches, will live vividly in the mind of every reader of Shakspeare, as the resort of the prince of Wales, Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff and his coney-catching knaves, Bardolph, Pistol, and Nym; and whose sign was a boar's head, carved in stone over the door, and a smaller one in wood on each side of the doorway.
and whose nature it was meant to represent; and was widely used as a sign for pubs. The Boar's Head in Eastcheap, which, until about twenty-five years ago, still stood in all its original charm, although it was removed to make way for the London Bridge approaches, will remain vividly in the minds of every reader of Shakespeare, as the hangout of the Prince of Wales, Poins, and his friends, as well as the home of Falstaff and his scheming buddies, Bardolph, Pistol, and Nym; with its sign of a boar's head, carved in stone above the door, and a smaller one in wood on either side of the entrance.
The traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in connection with this grim trophy of the chase are numerous in all parts of Europe. But the most remarkable connected with the subject in this country, were two events that occurred in Scotland, about the 11th and 15th centuries.
The customs and acts of brutal revenge tied to this chilling reminder of the hunt are widespread throughout Europe. However, the most notable ones related to this topic in this country were two incidents that took place in Scotland around the 11th and 15th centuries.
A border family having been dispossessed of their castle and lands by a more powerful chief, were reduced for many years to great indigence, the expelled owner only living in the hope of wreaking a terrible vengeance, which, agreeably to the motto of his house, he was content to "bide his time" for. The usurper having invited a large number of his kindred to a grand hunt in his new domains, and a feast after in the great hall, returned from the chase, and discovering the feast not spread, vented his wrath in no measured terms on the heads of the tardy servitors. At length a menial approached, followed by a line of servants, and placing the boar's head on the table, the guests rushed forward to begin the meal; when, to their horror, they discovered, not a boar's but a bull's head,—a sign of death. The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who were the adherents of the dispossessed chief, threw off their disguise, and falling on the usurper and his friends, butchered them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival faction.
A border family had been stripped of their castle and land by a more powerful chief, leaving them in poverty for many years. The former owner lived only with the hope of exacting a terrible revenge, which, according to his family motto, he was willing to "bide his time" for. The usurper invited many of his relatives to a grand hunt in his new territory, followed by a feast in the great hall. After the hunt, he returned only to find that the feast wasn't prepared, and he unleashed his fury on the slow servants. Finally, a servant came forward, followed by a line of others, and placed the boar's head on the table. The guests rushed forward to start the meal, but to their horror, they found it was not a boar's head but a bull's head—a sign of death. The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who were loyal to the dispossessed chief, revealed their true identities and attacked the usurper and his guests, slaughtering them and everyone in the castle who belonged to the rival faction.
A tribe of caterans, or mountain robbers, in the Western Highlands, having been greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of the district, waylaid him and his retinue, put them all to the sword, and cutting off the chief's head, repaired to his castle, where they ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food and drink. To appease their savage humour, the lady gave order for their entertainment, and on returning to the hall to see her orders were complied with, discovered, in place of the boar's head that should have graced the board, her husband's bleeding head; the savage caterans, in rude derision, as a substitute for the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws, having thrust a slice of bread in the dead man's mouth.
A group of caterans, or mountain bandits, in the Western Highlands, having been severely hunted down by a powerful local chief, ambushed him and his followers, killing them all. They cut off the chief's head and headed to his castle, where they demanded that his terrified wife provide them with food and drink. To keep them satisfied, the lady arranged for their entertainment, and when she returned to the hall to check on her orders, she found, instead of the boar's head that should have been on the table, her husband's bloody head. The savage caterans had mockingly replaced the usual apple or lemon typically placed between the jaws with a slice of bread stuffed in the dead man’s mouth.
FOR CURING HAMS (Mons. Ude's Recipe).
FOR CURING HAMS (Mons. Ude's Recipe).
816. INGREDIENTS.—For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each, allow 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. of saltpetre, 1 quart of good vinegar.
816. INGREDIENTS.—For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each, use 1 lb. of brown sugar, 1 lb. of regular salt, 2 oz. of saltpeter, and 1 quart of good vinegar.
Mode.—As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2 hams and rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large pan for 3 days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the hams, and throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre together in the above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put them into a vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt over them. Let them remain for 3 days, then pour over them a quart of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well, and rub them with bran. Have them smoked over a wood fire, and be particular that the hams are hung as high up as possible from the fire; otherwise the fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard.
Mode.—Once the pig is cool enough to be processed, take the 2 hams and thoroughly rub them with regular salt, then leave them in a large pan for 3 days. After the salt has extracted all the blood, drain the hams and discard the brine. Combine sugar, salt, and saltpetre in the specified amounts, rub the hams well with this mix, and place them in a container large enough to accommodate them, always keeping the salt on top. Let them sit for 3 days, then pour a quart of good vinegar over them. Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then drain them well and rub them with bran. Smoke them over a wood fire, making sure to hang the hams as high up as possible from the fire; otherwise, the fat will melt, and they will become dry and tough.
Time.—To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month.
Time.—Pickle for 1 month; smoke for 1 month.
Sufficient for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each.
Enough for 2 hams of 18 lbs. each.
Seasonable from October to March.
Available from October to March.
THE PRICE OF A SOW IN AFRICA.—In one of the native states of Africa, a pig one day stole a piece of food from a child as it was in the act of conveying the morsel to its mouth; upon which the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her hovel to ascertain the cause; and seeing the purloining pig make off munching his booty, the woman in her heat struck the grunter so smart a blow, that the surly rascal took it into his head to go home very much indisposed, and after a certain time resolved to die,—a resolution that he accordingly put into practice; upon which the owner instituted judicial proceedings before the Star Chamber court of his tribe, against the husband and family of the woman whose rash act had led to such results; and as the pig happened to be a sow, in the very flower of her age, the prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered teems of pigs, with the expenses attending so high a tribunal, swelled the damages and costs to such a sum, that it was found impossible to pay them. And as, in the barbarous justice existing among these rude people, every member of a family is equally liable as the individual who committed the wrong, the father, mother, children, relatives,—an entire community, to the number of thirty-two souls, were sold as slaves, and a fearful sum of human misery perpetrated, to pay the value of a thieving old sow.
THE PRICE OF A SOW IN AFRICA.—In one of the native states of Africa, a pig one day snatched a piece of food from a child who was about to eat it; the child cried out so loudly that the mother rushed out of her hut to see what was wrong. When she saw the thieving pig running away with the food, she angrily struck the pig so hard that it went home feeling unwell and eventually decided to die—a decision it followed through with. The owner then filed a lawsuit in the Star Chamber court of his tribe against the husband and family of the woman whose reckless action led to these consequences. Since the pig was a sow in her prime, the owner's potential loss in future piglets, along with the costs of such a high court, made the damages and costs unmanageable. In the cruel justice system of these primitive people, every member of a family is held equally responsible for the wrongdoing, so the father, mother, children, relatives—a whole community of thirty-two souls—were sold into slavery, causing immense human suffering to cover the value of a stealing old sow.
TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. each.
TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. each.
817. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of bay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt.
817. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of molasses, ½ lb. of saltpeter, 1 lb. of bay salt, 2 lbs. of regular salt.
Mode.—Two days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw what comes from them away, and then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt. Lay them in a deep pan, and let them remain one day; boil the above proportion of treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and common salt for 1/4 hour, and pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams: there should be sufficient of it to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it; afterwards they will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3 weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearly or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue pickled in this way is most excellent, to be eaten either green or smoked.
Mode.—Two days before you brine the hams, rub them thoroughly with salt to remove any slime and blood. Discard what comes off, then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt. Place them in a deep pan and leave them for one day. Boil the mixture of treacle, saltpetre, bay salt, and regular salt for 15 minutes, then pour this hot brine over the hams, making sure there's enough to cover them completely. For the first day or two, rub them well with the brine; after that, just turn them occasionally. They should stay in this brine for about 3 weeks to a month, after which they will be ready to smoke, a process that will take almost a month. An ox tongue pickled this way tastes excellent, whether eaten fresh or smoked.
Time.—To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked about a month.
Time.—To stay in the brine for 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked for about a month.
Seasonable from October to March.
Seasonal from October to March.
TO CURE SWEET HAMS IN THE WESTMORELAND WAY.
818. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of common salt, 3 lbs. of coarse sugar, 1 lb. of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.
818. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of regular salt, 3 lbs. of brown sugar, 1 lb. of bay salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.
Mode.—Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding day well with salt, and drain the brine well from them. Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 1/4 hour; pour over the hams, and let them remain a month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day, but do not take them out of the pickling-pan; and have them smoked for a month.
Mode.—Before you start pickling the hams, rub them thoroughly with salt the day before and drain off the brine completely. Put the ingredients into a saucepan and boil for 15 minutes; then pour the mixture over the hams and let them soak in the pickle for a month. Rub and turn them every day, but keep them in the pickling pan; then have them smoked for a month.
Time.—To be pickled 1 month; to be smoked 1 month.
Time.—Brine for 1 month; smoke for 1 month.
Seasonable from October to March.
In season from October to March.
TO PICKLE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).
TO CURE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).
819. INGREDIENTS.—To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs., allow 1 lb. of coarse sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1/2 a teacupful of vinegar.
819. INGREDIENTS.—For a ham weighing 10 to 12 lbs., use 1 lb. of coarse sugar, 3/4 lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpeter, and 1/2 a teacup of vinegar.
Mode.—Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or two to drain; then rub well in, the above proportion of sugar, salt, saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood fire for 3 weeks or a month.
Method.—Rinse the hams thoroughly with regular salt and let them drain for a day or two; then mix in the specified amounts of sugar, salt, saltpeter, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the brine for 1 month, drain them, and have them smoked over a wood fire for 3 weeks to a month.
Time.—To remain in the pickle 1 month. To be smoked 3 weeks or 1 month.
Time.—Soak for 1 month. Smoke for 3 weeks or 1 month.
Sufficient.—The above proportion of pickle sufficient for 1 ham.
Sufficient.—The amount of pickle mentioned above is enough for 1 ham.
Seasonable.—Hams should be pickled from October to March.
Seasonal.—Hams should be cured from October to March.
NOVEL WAY OF RECOVERING A STOLEN PIG.—It is a well-known fact, that in Ireland the pig is, in every respect, a domesticated animal, sharing often both the bed and board of the family, and making an outer ring to the domestic circle, as, seated round the pot of potatoes, they partake of the midday meal called dinner. An Irishman upon one occasion having lost an interesting member of his household, in the form of a promising young porker, consulted his priest on the occasion, and having hinted at the person he suspected of purloining the "illegant slip of a pig" he was advised to take no further notice of the matter, but leave the issue to his spiritual adviser. Next Sunday his reverence, after mass, came to the front of the altar-rails, and looking very hard at the supposed culprit, exclaimed, "Who stole Pat Doolan's pig?" To this inquiry there was of course no answer;—the priest did not expect there would be any. The following Sunday the same query was propounded a little stronger—"Who of you was it, I say, who stole poor Pat Doolan's pig?" It now became evident that the culprit was a hardened sinner; so on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the unsatisfactory inquiry, the priest, after, as usual, eyeing the obdurate offender, said, in a tone of pious sorrow, "Mike Regan, Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt!" That night, when the family was all asleep, the latch of the door was noiselessly lifted, and the "illegant slip of a pig" cautiously slipped into the cabin.
NOVEL WAY OF RECOVERING A STOLEN PIG.—It is a well-known fact that in Ireland, pigs are fully domesticated animals, often sharing both the bed and food with the family and forming a part of the household circle as they sit around the pot of potatoes for the midday meal known as dinner. One day, an Irishman who had lost an important member of his household—a promising young pig—went to his priest for advice. After hinting at the person he suspected of stealing the "elegant little pig," he was told to not pursue the matter further and to leave the resolution up to his spiritual guide. The following Sunday, after mass, the priest approached the front of the altar-rails and, glaring at the alleged thief, asked, "Who stole Pat Doolan's pig?" Naturally, there was no response; the priest didn't expect one. The next Sunday, he asked the same question with more intensity—"Who among you took poor Pat Doolan's pig?" By this point, it was clear that the culprit was a hardened sinner. So on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the unsatisfactory question, the priest, after giving the stubborn offender another hard look, said with apparent sorrow, "Mike Regan, Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt!" That night, while the family was fast asleep, the latch on the door was quietly lifted, and the "elegant little pig" carefully entered the cabin.
TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.
820. Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain 40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.
820. Take an old barrel, seal all the gaps, and make a spot near the bottom to hang the items you want to smoke. Next, cut a hole near the top on the side to insert an iron pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. After turning the barrel upside down, hang the items on the cross-stick, place the iron pan in the opening, and add a piece of red-hot iron to the pan, covering it with sawdust. It’s all set. Let a large ham smoke for 40 hours, maintaining a steady smoke.
TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY.
821. INGREDIENTS.—To every 14 lbs. of meat, allow 2 oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle, 3 gallons of water, 5 lbs. of common salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. of bay-salt.
821. INGREDIENTS.—For every 14 lbs. of meat, use 2 oz. of saltpeter, 2 oz. of salt prunella, and 1 lb. of regular salt. For the brine, mix 3 gallons of water, 5 lbs. of regular salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, and 3 lbs. of bay salt.
Mode.—Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and to every 14 lbs. allow the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and common salt. Pound and mix these together, and rub well into the meat; lay it in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it daily for 2 successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle made as follows:—Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it on the fire, and stir frequently; remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 1/4 hour, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, &c., be well rubbed and turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3 weeks; if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required for the sides, &c., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the pieces out, let them drain for an hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke from a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using, and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for use, add about 2 lbs. of common salt, and the same of treacle, to allow for waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having been first rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24 hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of the tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. A fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be sufficient.
Method.—Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and for every 14 lbs., use the above amount of saltpeter, salt prunella, and regular salt. Grind and mix these together, then rub them well into the meat. Place the meat in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly and turning it daily for 2 consecutive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a brine made as follows:—Put the above ingredients in a saucepan, heat it on the stove, and stir frequently; remove any scum, let it boil for 15 minutes, and pour it hot over the meat. Make sure to rub and turn the hams, etc., daily; if the meat is small, 2 weeks will be enough for the sides and shoulders to stay in the brine, and 3 weeks for the hams; if the meat weighs 30 lbs. or more, allow 3 weeks for the sides, etc., and 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. After removing the pieces, let them drain for an hour, cover them with dry sawdust, and smoke them for 2 weeks to 3 weeks. Boil and skim the brine after using, and it will last well, tightly sealed, for 2 years. When boiling it for use, add about 2 lbs. of regular salt and the same amount of molasses to account for evaporation. Tongues are great when put in this brine cold, having been first rubbed well with saltpeter and salt, and allowed to sit for 24 hours, remembering to make a deep cut under the thick part of the tongue to help the brine penetrate more easily. A week and a half to 3 weeks, depending on the size of the tongue, will be sufficient.
Time—Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, hams 3 weeks; to be smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks.
Time—Small meat should stay in the pickle for two weeks, hams for 3 weeks; they should be smoked for anywhere from two weeks to 3 weeks.
The following is from Morton's "Cyclopaedia of Agriculture," and will be found fully worthy of the high character of that publication.
The following is from Morton's "Cyclopaedia of Agriculture," and it is fully deserving of the esteemed reputation of that publication.
CURING OF HAMS AND BACON.
822. The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid on a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at the neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following manner:—The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side, and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it, throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge—the breadth of the interior consisting of the breadth of the spine, and about an inch of the ribs on each side, being diminished to about half an inch at the exterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first anterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of the ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noticed, is a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the hock-bone, in a similar manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch of mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted, which process, in large caring establishments, is generally as follows. The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts by weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised parts of the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch covered with the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined, and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from nogs of a carcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the stone). Flitches of a larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another week. Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lbs. weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the above-described process. The next and last process in the preparation of bacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room heated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the curing process has some advantages over the other, as by it the meat is subject to the action of creosote, a volatile oil produced by the combustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air not only from the muscle but also from the fat; thus effectually preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons for condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork are, that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour which smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by mercantile curers. A very impure variety of pyroligneous acid, or vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes used, on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process, without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting above described, pork loses from eight to ten per cent. of its weight, according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution of weight, to the extent of five to six per cent., takes place in drying during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that the total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in a proper state for market, is not less on an average than fifteen per cent. on the weight of the fresh pork.
822. After the hog's carcass has hung overnight to cool, it's placed on a sturdy bench or stool, and the head is removed from the body at the neck, just behind the ears. The feet and internal fat are also taken off. Next, the carcass is split into two sides: the ribs are cut about an inch from the spine on each side, and the spine—with the ends of the ribs attached, along with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys, as well as the flesh above it—is removed along the full length of the sides. The part taken out is wedge-shaped, with the width at the spine being about an inch and tapering to about half an inch at the skin along the back. The breastbone and the first front rib are also cut from the side. Sometimes, all the ribs are removed, but this is considered a bad practice for reasons that will be explained later. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, which is usually the case, they are cut out to include the hock bone, similar to how a haunch of mutton is cut in London. The carcass of the hog, now cut up, is ready for salting. In larger operations, the skin side of the pork is rubbed with a mixture of fifty parts salt and one part powdered saltpeter, and the cut areas of the ham or flitch, as well as the inside of the flitch, are covered with the same mixture. The salted bacon, stored in pairs of flitches with the insides facing each other, is stacked on slightly inclined benches with channels or troughs to direct the brine to containers in the salting house floor, which will later be used for pickling pork for navy purposes. The bacon stays in this condition for two weeks, which is sufficient for flitches from carcasses weighing less than 15 stone (14 lbs. per stone). For larger flitches, after two weeks, they are wiped dry and flipped in the pile, while getting about half the original amount of fresh dry salt sprinkled on the inside and cut areas; they remain on the benches for another week. Hams, being thicker than flitches, need three weeks if they weigh less than 20 lbs. and four weeks if they exceed that weight. The final step in preparing bacon and hams before market is drying. This is done by hanging the flitches and hams in a room heated by stoves or in a smokehouse for two to three weeks, where they are exposed to smoke from the slow burning of oak sawdust or other hard woods. This method has advantages, as the meat is exposed to creosote, a volatile oil from burning the sawdust that is very antiseptic. It also forms a thin, resinous coating that keeps air from reaching both the muscle and fat, effectively preventing the meat from going bad. The main reasons for discouraging the removal of ribs from pork flitches are that this process can make the meat uncomfortably tough and pungent while salting, and leads to quicker rusting because of increased exposure to air. Despite its effectiveness in curing, many people dislike the flavor from smoke drying, so it’s not the most common method used by commercial curers. A somewhat impure form of pyroligneous acid, or vinegar made from wood distillation, is sometimes used because of the strong preservative power of creosote it contains, and also to add a smoky flavor, though this often gives a coarse tar-like taste rather than a true wood smoke flavor. A significant amount of bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported packed in salt, in bales, straight from salting without any drying. In the salting process described, pork loses about eight to ten percent of its weight, depending on the size and quality of the meat; additionally, there’s a further loss of five to six percent in weight from drying in the first two weeks after being taken out of salt, making the total average weight loss from preparing bacon and hams suitable for market at least fifteen percent of the original fresh pork weight.
COLLARED PIG'S FACE (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).
COLLARED PIG'S FACE (a Breakfast or Lunch Dish).
823. INGREDIENTS.—1 pig's face; salt. For brine, 1 gallon of spring water, 1 lb. of common salt, 1/2 handful of chopped juniper-berries, 6 bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, 1/4 oz. of saltpetre. For forcemeat, 1/2 lb. of ham, 1/2 lb. bacon, 1 teaspoonful of mixed spices, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 6 young onions.
823. INGREDIENTS.—1 pig's face; salt. For the brine, 1 gallon of spring water, 1 lb. of regular salt, a handful of chopped juniper berries, 6 crushed cloves, 2 bay leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, and sage, and 1/4 oz. of saltpeter. For the forcemeat, 1/2 lb. of ham, 1/2 lb. of bacon, 1 teaspoon of mixed spices, pepper to taste, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, and 6 young onions.
[Illustration: PIG'S FACE.]
[Illustration: PIG FACE.]
Mode.—Singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin, and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the above ingredients for 1/4 hour, and letting it stand to cool. When cold, pour it over the head, and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning and rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain, and dry it. For the forcemeat, pound the ham and bacon very finely, and mix with these the remaining ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. Spread this equally over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bind it securely with broad tape. Put it into a saucepan with a few meat trimmings, and cover it with stock; let it simmer gently for 4 hours, and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time. When quite tender, take it up, put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight on the top, and when cold, remove the cloth and tape. It should be sent to table on a napkin, or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a ruche at the top.
Mode.—Carefully singe the head, bone it without breaking the skin, and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the ingredients above for 15 minutes, then let it cool. Once cold, pour it over the head and let it soak for 10 days, turning and rubbing it often. Afterward, wipe, drain, and dry it. For the forcemeat, finely pound the ham and bacon, and mix in the remaining ingredients, ensuring everything is well combined. Spread this mixture evenly over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and secure it with broad tape. Place it in a saucepan with some meat trimmings, covering it with stock; let it simmer gently for 4 hours, making sure it keeps boiling the entire time. Once it's tender, remove it, place it between two dishes with a heavy weight on top, and when it's cool, take off the cloth and tape. It should be served on a napkin or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a ruffle at the top.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, from 2s. to 2s. 6d.
Time.—4 hours. Average cost, from £0.10 to £0.12.
Seasonable from October to March.
Available from October to March.
THE WILD AND DOMESTIC HOG.—The domestic hog is the descendant of a race long since banished from this island; and it is remarkable, that while the tamed animal has been and is kept under surveillance, the wild type whence this race sprung, has maintained itself in its ancient freedom, the fierce denizen of the forest, and one of the renowned beasts of the chase. Whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog, the horse, the ox, and others, or as to whether their original race is yet extant or not, these doubts do not apply to the domestic hog. Its wild source still exists, and is universally recognized: like the wolf, however, it has been expelled from our island; but, like that animal, it still roams through the vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia.
THE WILD AND DOMESTIC HOG.—The domestic hog is a descendant of a species that has long been wiped out from this island; it’s interesting to note that while the domesticated animal has been monitored, the wild type from which it descended has continued to thrive freely, remaining a fierce inhabitant of the forest and a well-known game animal. Unlike the ongoing debates about the true origins of the dog, horse, ox, and others, or whether their original species still exists, there is no doubt about the domestic hog. Its wild ancestor is still present and recognized everywhere: like the wolf, it has been driven from our island; but, similar to that animal, it still roams the expansive woodlands of Europe and Asia.
TO DRESS PIG'S FRY (a Savoury Dish).
TO DRESS PIG'S FRY (a Savory Dish).
824. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of pig's fry, 2 onions, a few sage-leaves, 3 lbs. of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste.
824. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lbs. of pig's fry, 2 onions, a few sage leaves, 3 lbs. of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle over it some minced sage and onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; slice the potatoes; put a layer of these on the seasoning, then the fat fry, then more seasoning, and a layer of potatoes at the top. Fill the dish with boiling water, and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer.
Method.—Place the lean meat at the bottom of a pie dish, sprinkle it with some chopped sage and onion, and add a pinch of pepper and salt; slice the potatoes; add a layer of potatoes on top of the seasoning, then the fatty meat, then more seasoning, and a final layer of potatoes on top. Fill the dish with boiling water and bake for 2 hours, or a bit longer.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Time.—A little over 2 hours. Average cost, 6p. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Good for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from October to March.
In season from October to March.
TO MELT LARD.
825. Melt the inner fat of the pig, by putting it in a stone jar, and placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping off the skin. Let it simmer gently over a bright fire, and as it melts, pour it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for use, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig, before it is melted, makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and occasionally changing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it, and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard.
825. Melt the inner fat of the pig by placing it in a stone jar and putting that jar in a saucepan of boiling water, after removing the skin. Let it simmer gently over a good heat, and as it melts, carefully pour it off from the sediment. Store it in small jars or containers for later use, keeping it in a cool place. The fat or inner fat of the pig, before it's melted, creates a very light crust and is especially healthy. It can be preserved for a long time by salting it well and occasionally changing the brine. When you need to use it, wash and dry it, and it will work for making pastry just as well as fresh lard.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
BOILED LEG OF PORK.
826. INGREDIENTS.—Leg of pork; salt.
Ingredients: leg of pork; salt.
Mode.—For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub it well with salt; let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. An hour before dressing it, put it into cold water for an hour, which improves the colour. If the pork is purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat has been in pickle, and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scum as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do not allow it to boil fast, or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the leg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish, and a well-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment.
Mode.—For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub it thoroughly with salt; let it sit in brine for a week or ten days, making sure to turn and rub it every day. An hour before cooking, soak it in cold water for an hour to enhance the color. If you buy the pork already salted, check how long it has been in brine and soak it accordingly. Place it in a pot with enough cold water to cover it; let it come to a boil gradually and remove any foam that forms. Simmer it very gently until tender, and avoid boiling it too fast, or the knuckle will fall apart before the middle of the leg is cooked. You can boil carrots, turnips, or parsnips with the pork, and some of these should be arranged around the dish as a garnish; a well-made pea pudding is a must-have side dish.
Time.—A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., 3 hours after the water boils, and to be simmered very gently.
Time.—An 8 lb. leg of pork, boil the water, then simmer it very gently for 3 hours.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
Note.—The liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled, makes excellent pea-soup.
Note.—The broth from boiling a leg of pork makes great pea soup.
ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.—The hog has survived changes which have swept multitudes of pachydermatous animals from the surface of our earth. It still presents the same characteristics, both physical and moral, which the earliest writers, whether sacred or profane, have faithfully delineated. Although the domestic has been more or less modified by long culture, yet the wild species remains unaltered, insomuch that the fossil relics may be identified with the bones of their existing descendants.
ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.—The hog has survived changes that have wiped out many large animals from our planet. It still shows the same physical and moral traits that early writers, both religious and secular, have accurately described. Although domesticated pigs have been somewhat altered through long cultivation, the wild species remains unchanged, to the extent that fossil remains can be matched with the bones of their living relatives.
ROAST GRISKIN OF PORK.
827. INGREDIENTS.—Pork; a little powdered sage.
827. INGREDIENTS.—Pork; a bit of powdered sage.
[Illustration: SPARE-RIB OF PORK.]
[Illustration: PORK SPARE RIB.]
[Illustration: GRISKIN OF PORK.]
[Illustration: PORK GRISKIN.]
Mode.—As this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry, particular care should be taken that it is well basted. Put it down to a bright fire, and flour it. About 10 minutes before taking it up, sprinkle over some powdered sage; make a little gravy in the dripping-pan, strain it over the meat, and serve with a tureen of apple sauce. This joint will be done in far less time than when the skin is left on, consequently, should have the greatest attention that it be not dried up.
Mode.—Since this cut of meat often comes out tough and dry, be sure to baste it well. Place it over a bright fire and dust it with flour. About 10 minutes before it's done, sprinkle some powdered sage on top; make a bit of gravy in the dripping pan, strain it over the meat, and serve it with a bowl of apple sauce. This cut will cook much quicker without the skin, so pay close attention to avoid it drying out.
Time.—Griskin of pork weighing 6 lbs., 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—Pork roast weighing 6 lbs., 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 7d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
Note.—A spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above, and would take 1-1/2 hour for one weighing about 6 lbs.
Note.—A pork spare rib is roasted in the same way as described above and would take about 1.5 hours for one that weighs around 6 lbs.
[Illustration: BACON FOR LARDING, AND LARDING-NEEDLE.]
[Illustration: BACON FOR LARDING, AND LARDING-NEEDLE.]
LARDING.
828. INGREDIENTS.—Bacon and larding-needle.
828. INGREDIENTS.—Bacon and larding needle.
Mode.—Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be cured without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table, the rinds downwards; trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices of an equal thickness. Place the slices one on the top of another, and cut them evenly into narrow strips, so arranging it that every piece of bacon is of the same size. Bacon for fricandeau, poultry, and game, should be about 2 inches in length, and rather more than one-eighth of an inch in width. If for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal, the pieces of bacon must be thicker. The following recipe of Soyer is, we think, very explicit; and any cook, by following the directions here given, may be able to lard, if not well, sufficiently for general use.
Mode.—Bacon for larding should be firm and fatty, and it should be cured without any saltpetre, as that makes white meats turn red. Place it on a surface with the rinds facing down; trim off any rusty parts and cut it into evenly thick slices. Stack the slices on top of each other and cut them into narrow strips, ensuring that each piece of bacon is the same size. Bacon for fricandeau, poultry, and game should be about 2 inches long and just over one-eighth of an inch wide. If you're using it to lard beef fillets or veal loin, the bacon pieces should be thicker. The following recipe from Soyer is, in our opinion, very clear, and any cook can follow these instructions to lard well enough for general use.
"Have the fricandeau trimmed, lay it, lengthwise, upon a clean napkin across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at; then with the point of the larding-needle make three distinct lines across, 1/2 inch apart; run the needle into the third line, at the further side of the fricandeau, and bring it out at the first, placing one of the lardoons in it; draw the needle through, leaving out 1/4 inch of the bacon at each line; proceed thus to the end of the row; then make another line, 1/2 inch distant, stick in another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving the ends of the bacon out all the same length; make the next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the first row, proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded in chequered rows. Everything else is larded in a similar way; and, in the case of poultry, hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one minute, or dip it into boiling water, in order to make the flesh firm."
Trim the fricandeau and lay it lengthwise on a clean napkin across your hand, creating a sort of bridge with your thumb at the starting point. Then, with the tip of the larding needle, make three distinct lines spaced 1/2 inch apart. Insert the needle into the third line at the far side of the fricandeau and bring it out at the first, placing one of the lardoons in it. Pull the needle through, leaving 1/4 inch of bacon sticking out at each line. Continue this way until you reach the end of the row. Then, make another line 1/2 inch away and insert another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, keeping the ends of the bacon the same length. Repeat this for the next row, again keeping the same distance and bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the first row, continuing until the entire surface is covered in a checkerboard pattern. Everything else is larded in a similar fashion; for poultry, hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one minute or dip it into boiling water to firm up the flesh.
ROAST LOIN OF PORK.
829. INGREDIENTS.—Pork; a little salt.
829. INGREDIENTS.—Pork; a pinch of salt.
[Illustration: FORE LOIN OF PORK.]
[Illustration: Pork Fore Loin.]
[Illustration: HIND LOIN OF PORK.]
[Illustration: Pork Hip Joint.]
Mode.—Score the skin in strips rather more than 1/4 inch apart, and place the joint at a good distance from the fire, on account of the crackling, which would harden before the meat would be heated through, were it placed too near. If very lean, it should be rubbed over with a little salad oil, and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire. Pork should be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry; and be careful never to send it to table the least underdone, as nothing is more unwholesome and disagreeable than underdressed white meats. Serve with apple sauce, No. 363, and a little gravy made in the dripping-pan. A stuffing of sage and onion may be made separately, and baked in a flat dish: this method is better than putting it in the meat, as many persons have so great an objection to the flavour.
Mode.—Score the skin in strips a bit more than 1/4 inch apart, and position the joint a good distance from the fire to prevent the crackling from hardening before the meat cooks through, which would happen if it were placed too close. If the meat is very lean, rub it with a little salad oil and make sure to baste it well while it's cooking. Pork should be cooked thoroughly but not dry; avoid serving it even slightly undercooked, as nothing is more unhealthy and unpleasant than undercooked white meats. Serve with apple sauce, No. 363, and a bit of gravy made from the drippings. You can prepare a stuffing of sage and onion separately and bake it in a flat dish: this method is better than stuffing it in the meat, as many people strongly dislike the flavor.
Time.—A loin of pork weighing 5 lbs., about 2 hours: allow more time should it be very fat.
Time.—A 5 lb. loin of pork takes about 2 hours to cook; allow more time if it is very fatty.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE HOG.—In British strata, the oldest fossil remains of the hog which Professor Owen states that he has examined, were from fissures in the red crag (probably miocene) of Newbourne, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. "They were associated with teeth of an extinct felis about the size of a leopard, with those of a bear, and with remains of a large cervus. These mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the red crag: they had undergone the same process of trituration, and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the associated bones and teeth of fishes acknowledged to be derived from the regular strata of the red crag. These mammaliferous beds have been proved by Mr. Lyell to be older than the fluvio-marine, or Norwich crag, in which remains of the mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been discovered; and still older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits, from which the remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, &c. are obtained in such abundance. I have met," says the professor, in addition, "with some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil remains of a species of hog with those of the mammoth, in the newer pliocene freshwater formations of England."
FOSSIL REMAINS OF THE HOG.—In British geology, the oldest fossil remains of hogs that Professor Owen has examined were found in fissures in the red crag (likely from the Miocene era) of Newbourne, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. "They were found alongside teeth of an extinct felis about the size of a leopard, teeth from a bear, and remains of a large deer. These mammalian remains were discovered with the typical fossils of the red crag: they had gone through the same grinding process and were stained with the same coloring as the associated bones and teeth of fish that are known to come from the standard layers of the red crag. Mr. Lyell has shown that these mammal-bearing layers are older than the fluvio-marine, or Norwich crag, where remains of the mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been found, and they are even older than the freshwater Pleistocene deposits, which yield abundant remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros, etc. I have also encountered," the professor adds, "some convincing examples of fossil remains of a species of hog found alongside those of the mammoth in the newer Pliocene freshwater formations of England."
TO DRY PIGS' CHEEKS.
830. INGREDIENTS.—Salt, 4 oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 4 oz. of coarse sugar.
830. INGREDIENTS.—Salt, 4 oz. of saltpeter, 2 oz. of bay salt, 4 oz. of coarse sugar.
Mode.—Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head, taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape; rub it well with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following day; cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar, in the above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the head be often turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for a week or rather longer.
Mode.—Remove the snout, take out the brain, and split the head, cutting off the top bone to shape the jowl properly; rub it thoroughly with salt. The next day, discard the brine and salt it again for the following day; cover the head with saltpetre, bay salt, and coarse sugar in the proportions listed above, adding a bit of regular salt. Turn the head frequently, and after it has been in the brine for 10 days, smoke it for a week or even a little longer.
Time.—To remain in the pickle 10 days; to be smoked 1 week.
Time.—Stay in the brine for 10 days; then smoke for 1 week.
Seasonable.—Should be made from September to March.
Seasonable.—Should be made from September to March.
Note.—A pig's check, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after the water boils.
Note.—A pig's cheek, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after the water starts boiling.
PIG'S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish).
PIG'S LIVER (a Tasty and Budget-Friendly Dish).
831. INGREDIENTS.—The liver and lights of a pig, 6 or 7 slices of bacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage-leaves, pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water.
831. INGREDIENTS.—The liver and lungs of a pig, 6 or 7 slices of bacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage leaves, pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water.
Mode.—Slice the liver and lights, and wash these perfectly clean, and parboil the potatoes; mince the parsley and sage, and chop the onion rather small. Put the meat, potatoes, and bacon into a deep tin dish, in alternate layers, with a sprinkling of the herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt between each; pour on a little water or broth, and bake in a moderately-heated oven for 2 hours.
Method.—Slice the liver and lungs, wash them thoroughly, and parboil the potatoes; chop the parsley and sage, and finely dice the onion. Layer the meat, potatoes, and bacon in a deep baking dish, alternating them with a sprinkle of the herbs and a dash of pepper and salt between each layer; add a bit of water or broth, and bake in a moderately heated oven for 2 hours.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration: 2 hours. Average cost: £1.30.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
PIG'S PETTITOES.
832. INGREDIENTS.—A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour.
832. INGREDIENTS.—A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a thickening made of butter and flour.
Mode.—Put the liver, heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with the bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer these gently for 1/4 hour; then take out the heart and liver, and mince them very fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time that they boiled up first; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over a gentle fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents. Dish the mince, split the feet, and arrange them round alternately with sippets of toasted bread, and pour the gravy in the middle.
Mode.—Put the liver, heart, and tiny pieces of meat into a saucepan with the bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer these gently for 15 minutes; then remove the heart and liver, and chop them very finely. Keep cooking the feet until they're completely tender, which will take about 20 minutes to 30 minutes from when they first started boiling; then add the minced liver back in, thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and let it simmer over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Plate the mince, split the feet in half, and arrange them around it alternately with pieces of toasted bread, and pour the gravy in the center.
Time.—Altogether 40 minutes.
Duration.—Total of 40 minutes.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
TO PICKLE PORK.
833. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of saltpetre; salt.
833. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of saltpeter; salt.
Mode.—As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces of pork well with salt, and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it between each piece: as it melts on the top, strew on more. Lay a coarse cloth over the pan, a board over that, and a weight on the board, to keep the pork down in the brine. If excluded from the air, it will continue good for nearly 2 years.
Mode.—Since pork doesn’t last long without being salted, cut it into appropriately sized pieces as soon as the pig has cooled down. Rub the pork pieces thoroughly with salt and place them in a pan with a little salt sprinkled between each piece: as the salt melts on top, add more. Cover the pan with a coarse cloth, put a board on top of that, and place a weight on the board to keep the pork submerged in the brine. If kept airtight, it can stay good for almost 2 years.
Average cost, 10d. per lb. for the prime parts.
Average cost, 10p. per lb. for the prime parts.
Seasonable.—The best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn.
Seasonable.—The ideal time for pickling meat is in late autumn.
THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE HOG.—A singular circumstance in the domestic history of the hog, is the extent of its distribution over the surface of the earth; being found even in insulated places, where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the wild species is entirely unknown. The South-Sea islands, for example, were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a small black hog; and the traditionary belief of the people was that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves. Yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar, or any other animal of the hog kind, from which the domestic breed might be supposed to be derived. In these islands the hog is the principal quadruped, and the fruit of the bread-tree is its principal food, although it is also fed with yams, eddoes, and other vegetables. This nutritious diet, which it has in great abundance, is, according to Foster, the reason of its flesh being so delicious, so full of juice, and so rich in fat, which is not less delicate to the taste than the finest butter.
THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE HOG.—One interesting fact about the history of the hog is how widely it is found around the world; it's present even in remote areas where people live in a semi-wild state, and where the wild species doesn't exist. For instance, when the South-Sea islands were discovered, there was a plentiful population of small black pigs, and the locals believed these animals had existed as long as they had. Despite this, they had no knowledge of wild boars or any other related animals from which the domestic pigs might have come. In these islands, pigs are the main livestock, and they primarily eat the fruit from the breadfruit tree, along with yams, eddoes, and other vegetables. This rich diet, which is plentiful, is why, according to Foster, their meat is so tasty, juicy, and fatty, rivaling the richness of the finest butter.
TO BOIL PICKLED PORK.
834. INGREDIENTS.—Pork; water.
834. INGREDIENTS.—Pork; water.
Mode.—Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about 2 hours before it is dressed; put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmer until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is more disagreeable than underdone pork, and when boiled fast, the meat becomes hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal, instead of bacon: when tender, and not over salt, it will be found equally good.
Mode.—If the pork is really salty, let it soak in water for about 2 hours before cooking. Place it in a saucepan with enough cold water to fully cover it, then bring it to a boil gradually, and let it simmer gently until it's completely tender. Make sure to give it plenty of time to cook, because undercooked pork is unpleasant, and boiling it too quickly makes the meat tough. Sometimes it's served with boiled chicken and roast veal instead of bacon: when it's tender and not too salty, it's just as tasty.
Time.—A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs., 1-1/4 hour; 4 lbs., rather more than 2 hours.
Time.—A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs. takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes; 4 lbs. takes just over 2 hours.
Average cost, 10d. per lb. for the primest parts.
Average cost, 10p. per lb. for the best cuts.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
THE ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.—By what nation and in what period the hog was reclaimed, is involved in the deepest obscurity. So far back as we have any records of history, we find notices of this animal, and of its flesh being used as the food of man. By some nations, however, its flesh was denounced as unclean, and therefore prohibited to be used, whilst by others it was esteemed as a great delicacy. By the Mosaic law it was forbidden to be eaten by the Jews, and the Mahometans hold it in utter abhorrence. Dr. Kitto, however, says that there does not appear to be any reason in the law of Moses why the hog should be held in such peculiar abomination. There seems nothing to have prevented the Jews, if they had been so inclined, to rear pigs for sale, or for the use of the land. In the Talmud there are some indications that this was actually done; and it was, probably, for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned in the New Testament were kept, although it is usual to consider that they were kept by the foreign settlers in the land. Indeed, the story which accounts for the peculiar aversion of the Hebrews to the hog, assumes that it did not originate until about 130 years before Christ, and that, previously, some Jews were in the habit of rearing hogs for the purposes indicated.
THE ANTIQUITY OF THE HOG.—The origins of when and by which culture the hog was domesticated are shrouded in mystery. As far back as we have historical records, we see references to this animal and its meat being consumed by humans. Some cultures, however, considered its meat unclean and therefore prohibited its consumption, while others regarded it as a delicacy. According to Mosaic law, Jews were forbidden to eat it, and Muslims also have a strong aversion to it. Dr. Kitto notes that there doesn’t seem to be any clear reason in Moses’s law for the Jewish disdain towards hogs. It appears that nothing stopped Jews from raising pigs for sale or for land use if they wished. The Talmud suggests that this practice might have actually occurred, and it is likely that the herds of swine mentioned in the New Testament were raised for similar reasons, even though it's commonly thought that they were kept by foreign settlers. Moreover, the narrative explaining the Hebrews' strong dislike for hogs claims that this aversion began around 130 years before Christ, and that prior to that, some Jews were accustomed to raising hogs for the purposes mentioned.
PORK PIES (Warwickshire Recipe).
Pork Pies (Warwickshire Recipe).
835. INGREDIENTS.—For the crust, 5 lbs. of lard to 14 lbs. of flour, milk, and water. For filling the pies, to every 3 lbs. of meat allow 1 oz. of salt, 2-1/4 oz. of pepper, a small quantity of cayenne, 1 pint of water.
835. INGREDIENTS.—For the crust, 5 lbs. of lard to 14 lbs. of flour, milk, and water. For the pie filling, use 3 lbs. of meat with 1 oz. of salt, 2.25 oz. of pepper, a small amount of cayenne, and 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Rub into the flour a portion of the lard; the remainder put with sufficient milk and water to mix the crust, and boil this gently for 1/4 hour. Pour it boiling on the flour, and knead and beat it till perfectly smooth. Now raise the crust in either a round or oval form, cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut, season it in the above proportion, and press it compactly into the pie, in alternate layers of fat and lean, and pour in a small quantity of water; lay on the lid, cut the edges smoothly round, and pinch them together. Bake in a brick oven, which should be slow, as the meat is very solid. Very frequently, the inexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the crust. She should bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get cold, or it will fall immediately: to prevent this, the operation should be performed as near the fire as possible. As considerable dexterity and expertness are necessary to raise the crust with the hand only, a glass bottle or small jar may be placed in the middle of the paste, and the crust moulded on this; but be particular that it is kept warm the whole time.
Mode.—Rub a portion of the lard into the flour; mix the rest with enough milk and water to form the crust, and gently boil this for 15 minutes. Pour it boiling over the flour, and knead and beat it until completely smooth. Shape the crust into either a round or oval form, cut the pork into nut-sized pieces, season them as described, and pack them tightly into the pie, layering fat and lean meat alternately. Add a small amount of water; place the lid on top, trim the edges neatly, and pinch them together. Bake in a brick oven at a low temperature, as the meat is quite dense. Often, inexperienced cooks have trouble raising the crust. Remember that it must not be allowed to cool, or it will collapse immediately: to avoid this, it should be made as close to the fire as possible. Since it takes some skill to shape the crust by hand, you can use a glass bottle or small jar placed in the center of the dough to mold the crust around it, but make sure it stays warm the entire time.
Sufficient.—The proportions for 1 pie are 1 lb. of flour and 3 lbs. of meat.
Sufficient.—The proportions for 1 pie are 1 lb. of flour and 3 lbs. of meat.
Seasonable from September to March.
Seasonal from September to March.
THE FLESH OF SWINE IN HOT CLIMATES.—It is observed by M. Sonini, that the flesh of swine, in hot climates, is considered unwholesome, and therefore may account for its proscription by the legislators and priests of the East. In Egypt, Syria, and even the southern parts of Greece, although both white and delicate, it is so flabby and surcharged with fat, that it disagrees with the strongest stomachs. Abstinence from it in general was, therefore, indispensable to health under the burning suns of Egypt and Arabia. The Egyptians were permitted to eat it only once a year,—on the feast of the moon; and then they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet. At other seasons, should any one even touch a hog, he was obliged immediately to plunge into the river Nile, as he stood, with his clothes on, in order to purify himself from the supposed contamination he had contracted by the touch.
THE FLESH OF PIG IN HOT CLIMATES.—M. Sonini notes that in hot climates, pig meat is considered unhealthy, which may explain why it is banned by the lawmakers and religious leaders in the East. In places like Egypt, Syria, and even southern Greece, although the meat is both white and tender, it’s so greasy and full of fat that it doesn’t sit well even with the strongest stomachs. For this reason, avoiding it was essential for good health under the intense heat of Egypt and Arabia. Egyptians were only allowed to eat it once a year—during the moon festival—when they would sacrifice several pigs to the moon. At other times, if someone even touched a pig, they had to immediately jump into the Nile River, fully clothed, to cleanse themselves of the perceived contamination from the contact.
LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES.
836. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of mutton suet, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of the neck of pork, 1 dessertspoonful of powdered sage.
836. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of mutton suet, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of pork neck, 1 dessert spoonful of powdered sage.
Mode.—Well dry the flour, mince the suet, and put these with the butter into a saucepan, to be made hot, and add a little salt. When melted, mix it up into a stiff paste, and put it before the fire with a cloth over it until ready to make up; chop the pork into small pieces, season it with white pepper, salt, and powdered sage; divide the paste into rather small pieces, raise it in a round or oval form, fill with the meat, and bake in a brick oven. These pies will require a fiercer oven than those in the preceding recipe, as they are made so much smaller, and consequently do not require so soaking a heat.
Method.—First, dry the flour thoroughly, chop the suet, and place these along with the butter into a saucepan to heat, adding a pinch of salt. Once melted, mix it into a stiff paste and set it in front of the fire, covered with a cloth, until you're ready to use it. Chop the pork into small chunks, season with white pepper, salt, and powdered sage. Divide the paste into smaller pieces, shape them into rounds or ovals, fill with the meat, and bake in a brick oven. These pies will need a hotter oven than the ones in the previous recipe, as they're much smaller and therefore don’t need such a moist heat.
Time.—If made small, about 1-1/2 hour.
Duration.—If shortened, about 1.5 hours.
Seasonable from September to March.
Open from September to March.
SWINEHERDS OF ANTIQUITY.—From the prejudice against the hog among the ancients, those who tended them formed an isolated class, and were esteemed as the outcasts of society. However much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the Greeks and Romans, yet the swineherd is not mentioned by either the classic writers or the poets who, in ancient Greece and Rome, painted rural life. We have no descriptions of gods or heroes descending to the occupation of keeping swine. The swineherd is never introduced into the idyls of Theocritus, nor has Virgil admitted him into his eclogues. The Eumaeus of Homer is the only exception that we have of a swineherd meeting with favour in the eyes of a poet of antiquity. This may be accounted for, on the supposition that the prejudices of the Egyptians relative to this class of men, extended to both Greece and Italy, and imparted a bias to popular opinion.
SWINEHERDS OF ANTIQUITY.—Due to the disdain for pigs among ancient cultures, those who took care of them were considered an outcast group in society. Even though the meat of the animal was valued by the Greeks and Romans, swineherds are not mentioned by either classical writers or poets who depicted rural life in ancient Greece and Rome. We don’t have any accounts of gods or heroes taking on the job of tending pigs. The swineherd is never included in the idyllic portrayals by Theocritus, nor is he featured in Virgil's eclogues. The only exception we have is Eumaeus from Homer, who is the only swineherd to receive some recognition from an ancient poet. This can be explained by the assumption that the Egyptians' prejudices against this group of people influenced both Greece and Italy, affecting public opinion.
TO MAKE SAUSAGES.
(Author's Oxford Recipe.)
(Author's Oxford Recipe.)
837. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle; 1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1 small nutmeg, 6 sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of savory, 1/2 teaspoonful of marjoram.
837. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of pork, both fat and lean, with no skin or gristle; 1 lb. of lean veal; 1 lb. of beef suet; 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs; the zest of 1/2 lemon; 1 small nutmeg; 6 sage leaves; 1 teaspoon of pepper; 2 teaspoons of salt; 1/2 teaspoon of savory; 1/2 teaspoon of marjoram.
Mode.—Chop the pork, veal, and suet finely together, add the bread crumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a small nutmeg grated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these with the remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed, either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it into little cakes, which should be floured and fried.
Method.—Finely chop the pork, veal, and fat together, then add the bread crumbs, minced lemon peel, and a small grated nutmeg. Wash and chop the sage leaves very finely; add them along with the other ingredients to the sausage mixture, and once everything is well combined, either stuff the meat into casings or, when ready to serve, shape it into small patties, which should be floured and fried.
Average cost, for this quantity, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, for this amount, £2.50.
Sufficient for about 30 moderate-sized sausages.
Enough for about 30 sausages.
Seasonable from October to March.
Available from October to March.
THE HOG IN ENGLAND.—From time immemorial, in England, this animal has been esteemed as of the highest importance. In the Anglo-Saxon period, vast herds of swine were tended by men, who watched over their safety, and who collected them under shelter at night. At that time, the flesh of the animal was the staple article of consumption in every family, and a large portion of the wealth of the rich freemen of the country consisted of these animals. Hence it was common to make bequests of swine, with lands for their support; and to these were attached rights and privileges in connection with their feeding, and the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given number was granted in accordance with established rules. This is proved by an ancient Saxon grant, quoted by Sharon Turner, in his "History of the Anglo-Saxons," where the right of pasturage is conveyed in a deed by the following words:—"I give food for seventy swine in that woody allotment which the countrymen call Wolferdinlegh."
THE HOG IN ENGLAND.—Since ancient times, this animal has been regarded as extremely important in England. During the Anglo-Saxon period, large herds of pigs were cared for by individuals who looked after their safety and gathered them for shelter at night. Back then, the meat from this animal was a staple in every household, and a significant part of the wealth of wealthy freemen in the country consisted of these pigs. As a result, it was common to bequeath pigs along with land for their upkeep, and specific rights and privileges concerning their feeding and the amount of woodland allotted per pig were granted according to established standards. This is demonstrated by an old Saxon grant, quoted by Sharon Turner in his "History of the Anglo-Saxons," where the right to pasture is conveyed in a deed with the following words:—"I give food for seventy pigs in that wooded area which the locals call Wolferdinlegh."
FRIED SAUSAGES.
[Illustration: FRIED SAUSAGES.]
[Illustration: Fried Sausages.]
838. INGREDIENTS.—Sausages; a small piece of butter.
838. INGREDIENTS.—Sausages; a small amount of butter.
Mode.—Prick the sausages with a fork (this prevents them from bursting), and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece of butter. Keep moving the pan about, and turn the sausages 3 or 4 times. In from 10 to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently cooked, unless they are very large, when a little more time should be allowed for them. Dish them with or without a piece of toast under them, and serve very hot. In some counties, sausages are boiled and served on toast. They should be plunged into boiling water, and simmered for about 10 or 12 minutes.
Method.—Poke the sausages with a fork (this stops them from bursting), and place them in a frying pan with a small amount of butter. Keep moving the pan around, and turn the sausages 3 or 4 times. They will be cooked in about 10 to 12 minutes, unless they are very large, in which case you should let them cook a little longer. Serve them with or without a piece of toast underneath, and make sure they are very hot. In some regions, sausages are boiled and served on toast. They should be immersed in boiling water and simmered for about 10 to 12 minutes.
Time.—10 to 12 minutes.
Duration.—10 to 12 minutes.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10p per lb.
Seasonable.—Good from September to March.
In season.—Good from September to March.
Note.—Sometimes, in close warm weather, sausages very soon turn sour; to prevent this, put them in the oven for a few minutes with a small piece of butter to keep them moist. When wanted for table, they will not require so long frying as uncooked sausages.
Note.—Sometimes, in hot weather, sausages can spoil quickly; to avoid this, place them in the oven for a few minutes with a small piece of butter to keep them moist. When ready to serve, they won't need to be fried for as long as uncooked sausages.
THE SAXON SWINEHERD.—The men employed in herding swine during the Anglo-Saxon period of our history were, in general, thralls or born slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs, capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his master came with his spear to the rescue. In the "Ivanhoe" of Sir Walter Scott, we have an admirable picture, in the character of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd, as we also have of his master, a large landed proprietor, a great portion of whose wealth consisted of swine, and whose rude but plentiful board was liberally supplied with the flesh.
THE SAXON SWINEHERD.—The men working as swineherds during the Anglo-Saxon period were generally thralls or born slaves of the land, often helped by strong dogs capable of facing a wolf alone until their owner arrived with a spear to help. In Sir Walter Scott's "Ivanhoe," we see a great illustration of this in the character of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd, alongside his master, a wealthy landowner whose fortune was largely based on swine, and whose simple but abundant meals were generously filled with pork.
SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES.
839. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of lean pork, add 3/4 lb. of fat bacon, 1/4 oz. of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.
839. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of lean pork, add 3/4 pound of fatty bacon, 1/4 ounce of salt, 1 saltspoon of pepper, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, and 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley.
Mode.—Remove from the pork all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop it finely with the bacon; add the remaining ingredients, and carefully mix altogether. Pound it well in a mortar, make it into convenient-sized cakes, flour these, and fry them a nice brown for about 10 minutes. This is a very simple method of making sausage-meat, and on trial will prove very good, its great recommendation being, that it is so easily made.
Mode.—Take off all the skin, gristle, and bone from the pork and chop it finely with the bacon; then add the other ingredients and mix everything together carefully. Pound it well in a mortar, shape it into convenient-sized cakes, dust them with flour, and fry until they are a nice brown, about 10 minutes. This is a very simple way to make sausage meat, and once you try it, you'll see how good it is. Its main advantage is that it’s so easy to prepare.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
Seasonable from September to March.
Seasonal from September to March.
TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG.
840. Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remain for a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2 minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the belly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the pig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at the first joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over. If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air.
840. Put the pig in cold water right after it’s killed; let it sit for a few minutes, then dip it in a large pot of boiling water for 2 minutes. Take it out, place it on a table, and quickly pull off the hair. Once the skin looks clean, make a cut down the belly, remove the entrails, thoroughly clean the nostrils and ears, wash the pig in cold water, and dry it off completely. Cut off the feet at the first joint, and leave enough skin to fold over nicely. If you’re not going to prepare it right away, wrap it in a wet cloth to protect it from the air.
THE LEARNED PIG.—That the pig is capable of education, is a fact long known to the world; and though, like the ass, naturally stubborn and obstinate, that he is equally amenable with other animals to caresses and kindness, has been shown from very remote time; the best modern evidence of his docility, however, is the instance of the learned pig, first exhibited about a century since, but which has been continued down to our own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put together all the letters or figures that compose the day, month, hour, and date of the exhibition, besides many other unquestioned evidences of memory. The instance already given of breaking a sow into a pointer, till she became more stanch even than the dog itself, though surprising, is far less wonderful than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an animal may be taught not only to spell, but couple figures and give dates correctly.
THE LEARNED PIG.—It’s a well-established fact that pigs can be trained, and although they can be stubborn and hard-headed like donkeys, they can also respond to affection and kindness, as shown throughout history. The best modern example of their intelligence is the learned pig, which was first shown about a hundred years ago and has continued to impress with instances of animals able to spell out the day, month, hour, and date of the exhibition, along with many other clear demonstrations of memory. The earlier example of turning a sow into a pointer dog, making her even more reliable than the dog itself, is impressive, but what’s even more remarkable is the ability of such a generally slow-witted animal to learn not only how to spell but also to combine numbers and accurately provide dates.
ROAST SUCKING-PIG.
841. INGREDIENTS.—Pig, 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 16 sage-leaves, pepper and salt to taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, salad oil or butter to baste with, about 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
841. INGREDIENTS.—Pork, 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 16 sage leaves, pepper and salt to taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, salad oil or butter for basting, about 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
[Illustration: ROAST SUCKING-PIG.]
[Illustration: ROAST PIGLET.]
Mode.—A sucking-pig, to be eaten in perfection, should not be more than three weeks old, and should be dressed the same day that it is killed. After preparing the pig for cooking, as in the preceding recipe, stuff it with finely-grated bread crumbs, minced sage, pepper, salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together, and put into the body of the pig. Sew up the slit neatly, and truss the legs back, to allow the inside to be roasted, and the under part to be crisp. Put the pig down to a bright clear fire, not too near, and let it lay till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter tied up in a piece of thin cloth, and rub the pig with this in every part. Keep it well rubbed with the butter the whole of the time it is roasting, and do not allow the crackling to become blistered or burnt. When half-done, hang a pig-iron before the middle part (if this is not obtainable, use a flat iron), to prevent its being scorched and dried up before the ends are done. Before it is taken from the fire, cut off the head, and part that and the body down the middle. Chop the brains and mix them with the stuffing; add 1/2 pint of good gravy, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and the gravy that flowed from the pig; put a little of this on the dish with the pig, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Place the pig back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each side, and one of the ears at each end, and send it to table as hot as possible. Instead of butter, many cooks take salad oil for basting, which makes the crackling crisp; and as this is one of the principal things to be considered, perhaps it is desirable to use it; but be particular that it is very pure, or it will impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat. The brains and stuffing may be stirred into a tureen of melted butter instead of gravy, when the latter is not liked. Apple sauce and the old-fashioned currant sauce are not yet quite obsolete as an accompaniment to roast pig.
Mode.—A suckling pig, for the best taste, should be no more than three weeks old and should be cooked on the same day it's slaughtered. After preparing the pig, as detailed in the previous recipe, stuff it with finely grated breadcrumbs, minced sage, pepper, salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, all mixed together, and place it inside the pig. Sew up the slit neatly and tie the legs back to allow the inside to roast and the underside to get crispy. Put the pig over a bright, clear fire, but not too close, and let it sit until completely dry; then, prepare some butter wrapped in a piece of thin cloth and rub this over every part of the pig. Keep it well-rubbed with butter while it roasts, and make sure the crackling doesn't blister or burn. When it’s about halfway done, hang a pig-iron over the middle part (if that's not available, use a flat iron) to stop it from getting scorched or dried out before the ends are cooked. Before taking it off the fire, cut off the head and split both the head and body down the middle. Chop the brains and mix them with the stuffing; add 1/2 pint of good gravy, a tablespoon of lemon juice, and the drippings from the pig; put a little of this on the serving dish with the pig and serve the rest in a tureen. Place the pig back to back on the dish, with one half of the head on each side and one ear at each end, and serve it as hot as possible. Instead of butter, many cooks use salad oil for basting, which makes the crackling crispy; since this is one of the most important aspects, it might be worthwhile to use it, but ensure it is very pure, or it will give an off taste to the meat. The brains and stuffing can also be stirred into a tureen of melted butter instead of gravy, if preferred. Apple sauce and the old-fashioned currant sauce are still popular choices to accompany roast pig.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours for a small pig.
Time.—1.5 to 2 hours for a small pig.
Average cost, 5s. to 6s.
Average cost, 5 to 6 shillings.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.
Enough for 9 or 10 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
HOW ROAST PIG WAS DISCOVERED.—Charles Lamb, who, in the early part of this century, delighted the reading public by his quaint prose sketches, written under the title of "Essays of Elia," has, in his own quiet humorous way, devoted one paper to the subject of Roast Pig, and more especially to that luxurious and toothsome dainty known as "CRACKLING;" and shows, in a manner peculiarly his own, how crackling first came into the world.
HOW ROAST PIG WAS DISCOVERED.—Charles Lamb, who, in the early part of this century, entertained readers with his unique prose sketches called "Essays of Elia," dedicated one piece to the topic of Roast Pig, particularly focusing on the rich and tasty treat known as "CRACKLING." He explains, in his distinctively humorous style, how crackling first came into the world.
According to this erudite authority, man in the golden age, or at all events the primitive age, eat his pork and bacon raw, as, indeed, he did his beef and mutton; unless, as Hudibras tells us, he was an epicure, when he used to make a saddle of his saddle of mutton, and after spreading it on his horse's back, and riding on it for a few hours till thoroughly warmed, he sat down to the luxury of a dish cooked to a turn. At the epoch of the story, however, a citizen of some Scythian community had the misfortune to have his hut, or that portion of it containing his live stock of pigs, burnt down. In going over the débris on the following day, and picking out all the available salvage, the proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot, which caused him to shake his hand with great energy, and clap the tips of his suffering fingers to his mouth. The act was simple and natural, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his eyes in ecstatic pleasure, his frame distended, and, conscious of a celestial odour, his nostrils widened, and, while drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, he sucked his fingers with a gusto he had never, in his most hungry moments, conceived. Clearing away the rubbish from beneath him, he at last brought to view the carcase of one of his pigs, roasted to death. Stooping down to examine this curious object, and touching its body, a fragment of the burnt skin was detached, which, with a sort of superstitious dread, he at length, and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry, put into his mouth. Ye gods! the felicity he then enjoyed, no pen can chronicle! Then it was that he—the world—first tasted crackling. Like a miser with his gold, the Scythian hid his treasure from the prying eyes of the world, and feasted, in secret, more sumptuously than the gods. When he had eaten up all his pig, the poor man fell into a melancholy; he refused the most tempting steak, though cooked on the horse's back, and turned every half-hour after his own favourite recipe; he fell, in fact, from his appetite, and was reduced to a shadow, till, unable longer to endure the torments of memory he hourly suffered, he rose one night and secretly set fire to his hut, and once more was restored to flesh and manhood. Finding it impossible to live in future without roast-pig, he set fire to his house every time his larder became empty; till at last his neighbours, scandalized by the frequency of these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the supreme council of the nation. To avert the penalty that awaited him, he brought his judges to the smouldering ruins, and discovering the secret, invited them to eat; which having done, with tears of gratitude, the august synod embraced him, and, with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy, dedicated a statue to the memory of the man who first instituted roast pork.
According to this knowledgeable expert, during the golden age, or at least in the primitive age, humans ate their pork and bacon raw, just like they did with beef and mutton. Unless, as Hudibras mentions, they were epicures, in which case they would make a saddle from the saddle of mutton, put it on their horse's back, and ride for a few hours until it was nicely warmed up before enjoying a perfectly cooked dish. At the time of the story, however, a citizen from a Scythian community had the misfortune of having his hut, particularly the part where he kept his pigs, burned down. The next day, while going through the wreckage and picking out whatever salvageable items he could find, the owner touched something unusually hot, which made him shake his hand vigorously and bring his pained fingers to his mouth. The action was simple and natural, but the result was extraordinary. His eyes rolled in ecstatic pleasure, his body expanded, and, sensing a heavenly aroma, his nostrils flared as he inhaled deeply the delightful scent, sucking his fingers with a joy he had never experienced, even in his hungriest moments. Clearing away the debris beneath him, he finally uncovered the carcass of one of his pigs, roasted to perfection. Leaning down to examine this intriguing object, he touched its body, and a piece of the burnt skin came off, which he, feeling a mix of superstitious fear and philosophical curiosity, eventually put into his mouth. Oh my gods! The bliss he felt then cannot be put into words! That moment was when he—the world—first tasted crackling. Like a miser hoarding gold, the Scythian kept his newfound treasure hidden from the world and feasted in secret, more lavishly than the gods. After he finished eating his pig, the poor man fell into a deep melancholy; he turned down the most tempting steak, even when cooked on his horse's back, and became obsessed with his favorite dish, growing thinner until, unable to bear the torment of his memories any longer, he got up one night and secretly set fire to his hut, restoring himself to flesh and vitality. Realizing he couldn't live without roast pig, he burned down his house every time his pantry was empty, until his neighbors, scandalized by the frequency of his arson, brought his behavior before the nation's highest council. To avoid punishment, he took his judges to the smoldering ruins, revealed his secret, and invited them to eat; after they did, with tears of gratitude, the esteemed council embraced him and, overwhelmed with joy, dedicated a statue to the man who first introduced roast pork.
PORK CARVING.
SUCKING-PIG.
[Illustration: SUCKING-PIG.]
[Illustration: SUCKING-PIG.]
842. A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, rather an elaborate dish, or rather animal, to carve; but by carefully mastering the details of the business, every difficulty will vanish; and if a partial failure be at first made, yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second trial. A sucking-pig is usually sent to table in the manner shown in the engraving (and also in coloured plate S), and the first point to be attended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcase, by carrying the knife quickly and neatly round the circular line, as shown by the figures 1, 2, 3;—the shoulder will then easily come away. The next step is to take off the leg; and this is done in the same way, by cutting round this joint in the direction shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, in the same way as the shoulder. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife, which should be carried down in the direction of the line 4 to 5; and two or three helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pig is served, of course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig are variously esteemed; some preferring the flesh of the neck; others, the ribs; and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole of a sucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating; but, in carving it, the host should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests, keeping the larger joints, generally, for the gentlemen of the party.
842. A sucking pig might seem like a complicated dish to carve at first, but if you take the time to learn the details, any challenges will disappear. Even if you mess up on your first try, you'll find it much easier the second time around. A sucking pig is typically served as shown in the engraving (and also in the colored plate S), and the first thing to do is separate the shoulder from the body by making a quick and precise cut along the circular line, as illustrated in figures 1, 2, 3; the shoulder will then easily detach. Next, remove the leg using the same technique, cutting around the joint in the direction indicated by figures 1, 2, 3, just like with the shoulder. The ribs will then be exposed to the knife, which should be sliced in the direction of the line 4 to 5; two or three portions can be taken from here. The other half of the pig is served in the same way, of course. Different parts of the pig are preferred by different people; some like the neck meat, others prefer the ribs, and some like the shoulders. The truth is that the entire sucking pig is incredibly delicious and tender, but when carving, the host should consider the varying tastes and preferences of their guests, reserving the larger pieces generally for the men at the table.
HAM.
[Illustration: HAM.]
[Illustration: HAM.]
843. In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desires to practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the prime part. Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham. To reach the choicer portion, the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should be carried quite down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. The slices should be thin and even, and always cut down to the bone. There are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top, and then slicing pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the circle; but we think this a plan not to be recommended. A ham, when hot, is usually sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle; when cold, it is served in the manner shown by coloured plate P.
843. When slicing a ham, the carver should decide whether to save more or to get nice slices from the best part. If the goal is to be economical, they should start at the knuckle end and cut thin slices toward the thicker part of the ham. To reach the more desirable portions, the knife, which needs to be very sharp and thin, should go all the way down to the bone, following the line from 1 to 2. The slices should be thin and uniform, always cutting down to the bone. Some people prefer to carve a ham by first making a hole at the top and then slicing pieces from inside the hole, gradually making it larger; however, we don't recommend this method. A hot ham is usually served with a paper ruffle around the knuckle, while a cold ham is presented as shown in colored plate P.
LEG OF PORK.
[Illustration: LEG OF PORK.]
[Illustration: Pork Leg.]
844. This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is easy to carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the bone, clean through the crackling, in the direction of the line 1 to 2. Sago and onion and apple sauce are usually sent to table with this dish,—sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed,—and the guests should be asked if they will have either or both. A frequent plan, and we think a good one, is now pursued, of sending sage and onion to table separately from the joint, as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this stuffing is agreeable.
844. This joint, which a lot of people love, is easy to carve. The knife should be sharply guided down to the bone, cutting clean through the crackling, following the line 1 to 2. Sago, onion, and apple sauce are typically served with this dish—sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed—and guests should be asked if they want either or both. A common approach, and one we think is a good idea, is to serve sage and onion separately from the joint, as not everyone enjoys the flavor of this stuffing.
Note.—The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as to their carving or helping.
Note.—The other pork dishes don't require any special comments regarding their carving or serving.
CHAPTER XVIII.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF.
845. ANY REMARKS MADE ON THE CALF OR THE LAMB must naturally be in a measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the parent stock of either. As the calf, at least as far as it is identified with veal, is destined to die young,—to be, indeed, cut off in its comparative infancy,—it may, at first sight, appear of little or no consequence to inquire to what particular variety, or breed of the general stock, his sire or dam may belong. The great art, however, in the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shall not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable, but, at the same time, a constitution free from all taint, a frame that shall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly that every quantum of food it takes shall, without drawback or procrastination, be eliminated into fat and muscle. The breed, then, is of very considerable consequence in determining, not only the quality of the meat to the consumer, but its commercial value to the breeder and butcher.
845. ANY REMARKS MADE ON THE CALF OR THE LAMB must naturally be somewhat additional to the more detailed observations made on the parent stock of either. Since the calf, especially in relation to veal, is meant to die young—essentially cut down in its early life—it may initially seem unimportant to look into what specific variety or breed their sire or dam belongs to. However, the main goal in modern farming science has been to produce an animal that not only showcases the best physical features of the species but also possesses a robust constitution, a frame that grows quickly in size and weight, and a temperament so gentle that every bit of food it consumes is efficiently converted into fat and muscle. Thus, the breed is highly significant in determining not just the quality of the meat for consumers but also its market value for breeders and butchers.
846. UNDER THE ARTIFICIAL SYSTEM adopted in the rearing of domestic cattle, and stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary mandates of luxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, at all seasons in the market, though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make its appearance is about the beginning of February.
846. UNDER THE ARTIFICIAL SYSTEM used in raising farm animals and livestock in general, to cater to the demands of luxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, available in the market at any time of year, although the typical time for veal to show up in the city is around early February.
847. THE COW GOES WITH YOUNG FOR NINE MONTHS, and the affection and solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness mid intensity than is displayed by any other animal; and her distress when she hears its bleating, and is not allowed to reach it with her distended udders, is often painful to witness, and when the calf has died, or been accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse to give down her milk. At such times, the breeder has adopted the expedient of flaying the dead carcase, and, distending the skin with hay, lays the effigy before her, and then taking advantage of her solicitude, milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue.
847. THE COW IS PREGNANT FOR NINE MONTHS, and the love and care she shows for her young is more human in its warmth and intensity than anything seen in other animals. When she hears her calf bleating and can't get to it with her full udders, it can be really hard to watch her distress. If the calf dies or is accidentally killed, her sorrow often makes her stop giving milk. During these times, breeders have resorted to skinning the dead calf, filling the skin with hay, and placing it in front of her. Then, while she gently licks the skin, they take advantage of her concern to milk her.
848. IN A STATE OF NATURE, the cow, like the deer, hides her young in the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places; and only at stated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to the secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same, circumspection returns to the community.
848. IN A STATE OF NATURE, the cow, just like the deer, hides her young in the tall ferns and dense thickets, as well as in the most hidden spots. She only leaves the herd at certain times, two or three times a day, hurrying to her concealed spot to feed her calf. With the same care, she then returns to the group.
849. IN SOME COUNTRIES, to please the epicurean taste of vitiated appetites, it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately after birth, and any accident that forestalls that event, is considered to enhance its value. We are happy to say, however, that in this country, as far as England and Scotland are concerned, the taste for very young veal has entirely gone out, and "Staggering Bob," as the poor little animal was called in the language of the shambles, is no longer to be met with in such a place.
849. IN SOME COUNTRIES, to satisfy refined tastes of spoiled appetites, it’s common to slaughter the calf for food almost right after birth, and any incident that delays that is thought to increase its worth. We’re glad to say, though, that in this country, particularly in England and Scotland, the preference for very young veal has completely faded, and "Staggering Bob," as the unfortunate little creature was known in the butcher’s terms, is no longer found in such places.
850. THE WEANING OF CALVES is a process that requires a great amount of care and judgment; for though they are in reality not weaned till between the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by hand commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to suck its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a very important and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges his stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same time; and then, by setting aside one or two, to find food for the entire family, gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains of milk, to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have an idea that skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for the weaning period of calf-feeding; but this is a very serious mistake, for the cream, of which it has been deprived, contained nearly all the oleaginous principles, and the azote or nitrogen, on which the vivifying properties of that fluid depends. Indeed, so remarkably correct has this fact proved to be, that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with five of water, will thrive and look well; while another, treated with unlimited skimmed milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable.
850. WEANING CALVES is a process that requires a lot of care and judgment; even though they aren’t truly weaned until they are between eight and twelve weeks old, hand-rearing them actually starts at birth, as the calf is never allowed to suck from its mother. Since raising calves for the market is a crucial and profitable business, breeders usually plan their stock so that ten or twelve of their cows calve around the same time. Then, by setting aside one or two cows to provide food for the whole group, they can have the remaining eight or ten with plenty of milk to continue their dairy operations. Some people think that skimmed milk, if given in large enough quantities, is sufficient for weaning calves; but this is a serious misconception, because the cream that has been removed contains nearly all the fatty components and nitrogen, which are essential for the nutrient value of the milk. In fact, this has been shown to be so accurate that a calf raised on one part new milk mixed with five parts water will thrive and appear healthy; while another calf given unlimited skimmed milk will be poor, thin, and unhealthy.
851. IT IS SOMETIMES A MATTER OF CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE to induce the blundering calf—whose instinct only teaches him to suck, and that he will do at anything and with anything—acquire the knowledge of imbibition, that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a bottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down his throat. The manner, however, by which he is finally educated into the mystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a large wooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending her fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his lips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers, causes the milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by one the whole family are to be fed three times a day; care being taken, that new-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has some days calved.
851. IT CAN BE QUITE A CHALLENGE to teach the clumsy calf—whose instinct only tells him to suck, and he’ll do that with anything—to learn how to drink properly. For the first few days, you often have to fill a bottle with milk and pour it into his mouth. However, the way he eventually learns how to suck is by putting his milk allowance into a large wooden bowl. The caregiver then dips their hand into the milk and bends their fingers upwards to create a makeshift teat for the calf to latch onto. The vacuum created by him sucking on the fingers draws the milk up into his mouth. In this way, each calf in the family gets fed three times a day, making sure that newborn calves aren’t fed milk from a cow that has just recently calved.
852. AS THE CALF PROGRESSES TOWARDS HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet requires to be increased in quantity and quality; for these objects, his milk can be thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are to be slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolve there, till he grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it may be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time, sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerable quantities; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay may be added to the others. Some farmers, desirous of rendering their calves fat for the butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weakness of the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the stomach, and allow the animals either to suck ad libitum, or give them, if brought up at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can digest. The idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to their minds. They suppose that the more food the young creature consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercise whatever, for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh. Under such circumstances, the stomach soon becomes deranged; its functions are no longer capable of acting; the milk, subjected to the acid of the stomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened mass of curd, when the muscles become affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues.
852. AS THE CALF REACHES HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet needs to be increased in both quantity and quality; to achieve this, his milk can be thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake should be given to him after he sucks, so they can dissolve in his mouth until he gets used to the taste and starts to like it, at which point it can be softened and mixed into his milk-and-water. After some time, he should be given sliced turnips that have been steamed in reasonable amounts; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay can be added to the mix. Some farmers, eager to fatten their calves for the butcher as quickly as possible, overlook the calf's natural digestive weakness and the limited capacity of its stomach. They let the calves suck ad libitum or give them more milk than they can digest, especially if they are raised on a bucket or by hand. They never consider that they might be overloading the stomach. They think that the more food the young calf eats, the quicker it will gain weight, and they restrict exercise out of fear that it will lose the flesh from its bones. In such situations, the stomach quickly becomes upset; its functions fail to operate; the milk turns acidic and coagulates, forming a hardened mass of curd, leading to muscle spasms, and often resulting in death.
853. THERE WAS NO SPECIES OF SLAUGHTERING practised in this country so inhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killing this poor animal; when, under the plea of making the flesh white, the calf was bled day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal was unable to stand. This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhere abolished, and the calf is at once killed, and with the least amount of pain; a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck, severing all the large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then taken off to the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head, which is removed; it is then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been opened and dressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul, extended over the organs left in the carcase, as the kidneys and sweet-bread; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole interior, giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat, that is thought to add to its beauty; the whole is then hung up to cool and harden.
853. There was no kind of slaughtering practiced in this country that was as inhumane and disgraceful as what was recently done to this poor animal. Under the excuse of making the flesh white, the calf was bled daily until, by the time the final moment arrived, the animal could hardly stand. This cruelty has, we believe, now been abolished everywhere, and the calf is killed immediately and with the least amount of pain; a sharp knife is quickly inserted into the neck, cutting through all the large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then removed down to the knee, which is dislocated, and to the head, which is taken off; it is then pulled back, and the carcass is opened and prepared. It is held apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul, is draped over the organs still in the carcass, like the kidneys and sweetbreads. Some melted fat is then sprinkled quickly over the entire interior, giving the meat that white and frosted look that is believed to enhance its appearance; the whole thing is then hung up to cool and harden.
854. THE MANNER OF CUTTING UP VEAL for the English market is to divide the carcase into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore quarter; which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut.
854. THE WAY TO CUT UP VEAL for the English market is to divide the carcass into four quarters, with eleven ribs in each forequarter; these are then further divided into joints as shown in the cut.
[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]
Hind quarter:—
Hindquarter
1. The loin.
2. The chump, consisting of the rump
and hock-bone.
3. The fillet.
4. The hock, or hind knuckle.
1. The loin.
2. The chump, which includes the rump
and hock-bone.
3. The fillet.
4. The hock, or hind knuckle.
Fore quarter:—
Fore quarter
5. The shoulder. 6. The neck. 7. The breast. 8. The fore knuckle.
5. The shoulder. 6. The neck. 7. The chest. 8. The finger joint.
855. THE SEVERAL PARTS OF A MODERATELY-SIZED WELL-FED CALF, about eight weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:—loin and chump 18 lbs., fillet 12-1/2 lbs., hind knuckle 5-1/2 lbs., shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11 lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs. weight. The London mode of cutting the carcase is considered better than that pursued in Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and one boiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces being more equally divided, as regards flesh, and from the handsomer appearance they make on the table.
855. A moderately-sized, well-fed calf, around eight weeks old, has approximate weights for its various parts as follows: loin and chump 18 lbs., fillet 12.5 lbs., hind knuckle 5.5 lbs., shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11 lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle 5 lbs.; totaling 144 lbs. The London method of cutting the carcass is regarded as superior to that used in Edinburgh, as it provides three roasting joints and one boiling joint in each quarter, along with more evenly distributed pieces in terms of meat, and they look more appealing when served at the table.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XIX.
BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cooking).
856. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1 pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4 eggs.
856. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1 pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 1 blade of ground mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy, and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up the eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into a dish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy may be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.
Mode.—Finely chop the veal and bacon; mix in the bread crumbs, gravy, and seasoning, and stir everything together well. Whisk the eggs thoroughly; add them in, and mix everything up. Place the mixture in a dish and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour. If desired, you can serve some good gravy in a tureen as a side.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour.
Time.—From 45 to 60 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
ROAST BREAST OF VEAL.
[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Chop.]
857. INGREDIENTS.—Veal; a little flour.
857. INGREDIENTS.—Veal; a bit of flour.
Mode.—Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put it down to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Baste it plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good melted butter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut lemon.
Mode.—Wash the veal, pat it dry, and coat it with flour. Place it over a bright fire, but not too close, so it doesn’t burn. Baste it generously until it’s cooked through; serve it with some melted butter poured over the meat, a piece of boiled bacon, and a slice of lemon.
Time.—From 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Duration.—1.5 to 2 hours.
Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Average cost, 8.5 pence per lb.
Seasonable from March to October.
Seasonal from March to October.
STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS.
858. INGREDIENTS.—Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6 young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, green peas.
858. INGREDIENTS.—Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savory herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of ground mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6 young onions, 1 strip of lemon peel, 6 allspice berries, 1/4 teaspoon of pepper, 1 teaspoon of salt, a thickening mix of butter and flour, 2 tablespoons of sherry, 2 tablespoons of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup, green peas.
Mode.—Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, and divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into a frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves, onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and let the whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour it over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinkle these over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeat balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up the meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;—in that case it should be half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it.
Mode.—Cut the breast in half after removing the bone underneath, and divide the meat into manageable pieces. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the pieces of veal, and fry until they turn a nice brown color. Next, transfer these to a stewpan along with the herbs, mace, cloves, onions, lemon peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour in just enough boiling water to cover the meat. Close the lid tightly and let it simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off the required amount of gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, and then pour it over the meat. Have some green peas boiled separately; sprinkle these over the veal before serving. It can be garnished with meatballs or fried, curled bacon. Instead of cutting up the meat, many people prefer to cook it whole; in that case, it should be half-roasted before adding the water, etc.
Time.—2-1/4 hours. Average cost, 8-1/2d. per lb.
Time.—2.25 hours. Average cost, 8.5d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
BREEDING OF CALVES.—The forwarding of calves to maturity, whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however, has more immediate reference to the calf as meat than as stock, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf entirely from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and butter, cheese, and cream become desiderata,—things to be desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet, for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk, but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself: this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the young animal, is called weaning.
BREEDING OF CALVES.—The process of raising calves to maturity, whether they're meant for breeding stock or for early sale as veal, is always very important and requires careful planning to choose the best approach for either purpose. When calves are intended for stock, the timing of the cow's calving should ideally be around mid-May. However, since our focus here is more on the calf as meat rather than as stock, we’ll limit our discussion to the procedures used in the former case. The first step in this process is weaning, which involves completely separating the calf from the cow while still feeding it the mother's milk. If every cow were allowed to raise its young, the dairy business would come to a halt, leading to a shortage of butter, cheese, and cream—items we would want but not have. Therefore, a system of efficient farming becomes essential to maintain our dairy production while also nourishing the calf on its mother's milk for several weeks, but without letting the calf suck directly from the cow. This practice, along with providing appropriate substitute food for the young animal, is what we call weaning.
VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic).
VEAL CAKE (a Handy Dish for a Picnic).
859. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little pepper, good gravy.
859. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, a little pepper, and some good gravy.
Mode.—Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggs into slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in layers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full, get some strong stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, and when cold, turn it out.
Mode.—Remove all the brown edges from the veal, and slice the eggs. Get a nice mold; layer the veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in it, adding a bit of pepper between each layer. Once the mold is full, pour in some strong stock to fill it up. Bake for 30 minutes, and once it's cooled, turn it out.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER.
860. INGREDIENTS.—2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley and butter No. 493.
860. INGREDIENTS.—2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of savory herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley, and butter No. 493.
Mode.—Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put the bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover the whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, and cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use: it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c.
Mode.—Get 2 white calf's feet; remove the bones up to the first joint, and soak them in warm water for 2 hours. Then, place the bacon, butter, lemon juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning in a saucepan; add the feet and pour in just enough water to cover everything. Simmer gently for about 3 hours; remove the feet, plate them, and top with parsley and butter, prepared according to recipe No. 493. The liquid they were cooked in should be strained and set aside in a clean bowl for later use: it will be great as an addition to gravies, etc.
Time.—Rather more than 3 hours.
Time.—Just over 3 hours.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. each. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. each. Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.—The age at which a calf ought to be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend, whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of calves under six weeks of age. The calf is considered in prime condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty.
WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.—A calf should not be killed until it is at least four weeks old; before that, the meat is definitely not healthy, lacking firmness, proper muscle development, and the animal juices that contribute to the flavor and nutritional value of the meat, no matter what picky eaters may think otherwise. In France, there is a law that prohibits the slaughter of calves younger than six weeks. The calf is regarded as being in prime condition at ten weeks, weighing between sixteen to eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty.
FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET.
861. INGREDIENTS.—A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for each egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lard or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste.
861. INGREDIENTS.—A set of calf's feet; for the batter use 1 tablespoon of flour and 1 tablespoon of bread crumbs for each egg, along with hot lard or clarified fat, and add pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other, until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept by the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bones come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day. Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiff batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion; season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard. Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute or two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e.
Mode.—If you buy the feet uncleaned, dip them in warm water a few times and scrape off the hair, starting with one foot and then the other, until the skin is completely clean. Keep a saucepan of water on the fire until you're done. After washing and soaking in cold water, boil them in just enough water to cover them until the bones can be easily removed. Then take them out, strain the liquid into a clean container, and place the meat in a pie dish until the next day. Now slice it about 1/2 inch thick, spread a stiff batter made from egg, flour, and breadcrumbs in those proportions on top; season with pepper and salt, and then fry them in a pan of boiling lard. Cook the slices until they’re nicely browned, then dry them in front of the fire for a minute or two, serve them on a napkin, and garnish with small bunches of parsley. This should be enjoyed with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Make sure the lard is boiling to set the batter; otherwise, the pieces of feet will move around in the pan. Save the liquid they were boiled in; it's useful for enhancing gravies, making jellies, etc.
Time.—About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them.
Time.—About 3 hours to simmer the feet, 10 to 15 minutes to fry them.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. each.
Average cost, during the peak season, 9d. each.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Enough for 8 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
Note.—This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons.
Note.—This dish is highly recommended for those with sensitive tastes.
COLOUR OF VEAL.—As whiteness of flesh is considered a great advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves, are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal will be white or florid.
COLOUR OF VEAL.—Since the whiteness of the meat is seen as a major benefit in veal, butchers usually check the inside of the calf's mouth and look at the color of its eyes when selecting their calves. They claim that based on these observations, they can predict whether the veal will be pale or pink.
COLLARED CALF'S HEAD.
862. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard.
862. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's head, 4 tablespoons of minced parsley, 4 blades of crushed mace, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, white pepper to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs.
Mode.—Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide the head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones, which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it on the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer; roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve.
Mode.—Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it well, cut the head in half and remove the brains. Boil it until tender enough to remove the bones, which will take about 2 hours. Once the head is boned, flatten it on the table, sprinkle a thick layer of parsley over it, followed by a layer of ham, and then place the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings, adding a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer; roll the head up in a cloth, tying it as tightly as possible. Boil it for 4 hours, and when you take it out of the pot, place a heavy weight on top, as you would with other types of collars. Let it cool; then remove the cloth and ties, and it will be ready to serve.
Time.—Altogether 6 hours. Average cost, 5s. to 7s. each.
Time.—Total of 6 hours. Average cost, 5s. to 7s. each.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
FEEDING A CALF.—The amount of milk necessary for a calf for some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased, according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as adjuncts or substitutes.
FEEDING A CALF. — A calf needs about four quarts of milk a day for the first couple of weeks, but after that, you should gradually increase the amount based on its growth, and if it's only getting milk, it may need as much as three gallons a day to stay healthy. If the weather is nice, let it spend a few hours each day in an orchard or small paddock so it can start to enjoy fresh grass, which it will begin to nibble on by the tenth or twelfth week. Over time, you can reduce the milk and replace it with water mixed with meal. Hay tea and linseed jelly are also very nutritious and can be added or used instead.
FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree).
FRICASSEED CALF HEAD (an Entree).
863. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.
863. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pints of the broth from boiling the head, 1 blade of crushed mace, 1 chopped onion, a bunch of savory herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, a thickener made from butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and forcemeat balls.
Mode.—Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice square pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above proportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and put in the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after these two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set, the sauce may be poured over the meat.
Method.—Take all the bones out of the head and cut the meat into nice square pieces. Pour 1-1/2 pints of the liquid it was boiled in into a saucepan, along with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the mentioned proportions; let this simmer gently for 45 minutes, then strain it and add the meat. Once it's thoroughly heated, thicken the gravy with a little butter mixed with flour, and just before serving the fricassee, stir in the beaten egg yolks and lemon juice; be sure that after adding these last two ingredients, the sauce doesn’t boil, or it will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curly slices of broiled bacon. To ensure the sauce is smooth, it's a good idea to serve the meat first, then add the eggs to the gravy: once they’re set, the sauce can be poured over the meat.
Time.—Altogether, 1-1/4 hour.
Duration.—Total time, 1.25 hours.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel.
CALF'S HEAD à la Maitre d'Hôtel.
864. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maitre d'hôtel sauce No. 466.
864. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold calf's head, just over 1/2 pint of Maitre d'hôtel sauce No. 466.
Mode.—Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently thick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head, and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the meat; let it gradually warm through, and, after it boils up, let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve.
Mode.—Prepare the sauce using recipe No. 466, ensuring it's thick enough to coat the meat well; take the bones out of the head and slice the meat neatly. When the sauce is finished, add the meat; allow it to warm through gradually, and once it boils, let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes before serving.
Time.—Rather more than 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—About 1.5 hours.
Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d.
Average cost, not including the meat, 1s. 2d.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
THE CALF IN AMERICA.—In America, the calf is left with the mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1 quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat, and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience.
THE CALF IN AMERICA.—In America, the calf stays with its mother for three or four days before being weaned, after which it's immediately fed a mix of ground barley and oats made into a gruel. To prepare this, 1 quart of the meal is boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of water. One quart of this nutritious gruel should be given lukewarm, both morning and evening. After ten days, a bundle of soft hay is placed beside the calf, which it starts to eat, and some dry meal is also put in its manger for it to lick. This process involves gradually increasing the amount of gruel given twice a day over the course of two months until the calf is ready to go to pasture, reportedly with the best possible results. However, in this country, the method described in No. 862 has gained approval from the most experienced practitioners.
CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Recipe).
865. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 apples sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
865. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 sliced apples, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, 1 dessert spoon of flour, 1/2 pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter; then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a pale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples, and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add the lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on the top.
Mode.—Slice the onions and apples, then sauté them in a bit of butter; next, remove them, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these until they are a light brown. Add the curry powder and flour, then mix in the onions, apples, and a little broth or water, and simmer gently until everything is tender. Add the lemon juice and serve with a side of boiled rice. You can decorate the curry with pickles, bell peppers, and gherkins arranged nicely on top.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4d. Seasonable from March to October.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 4d. Seasonable from March to October.
VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree).
Veal Cutlets (an Entree).
866. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and popper to taste, a small piece of butter.
866. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 lbs. of the best part of the leg of veal, an egg, and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoons of chopped savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a small piece of butter.
[Illustration: VEAL CUTLETS.]
[Illustration: Veal Cutlets.]
Mode.—Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch in thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush them over with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at a good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour: by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in a little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then pour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper and salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over the cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and a few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this dish.
Mode.—Cut the veal into slices about 3/4 inch thick, and if they’re not perfectly even, flatten the meat with a meat mallet or rolling pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, then brush them with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with minced herbs, pepper, and salt, and press the crumbs down. Fry them until they’re a nice golden brown in fresh lard or butter, making sure not to burn them. They should be cooked thoroughly but not dry. If the cutlets are thick, cover the pan for a few minutes at a distance from the heat after they’ve gotten a good color; this will help cook the meat all the way through. Place the cutlets on a serving dish, keep them warm, and make a gravy in the pan like this: sprinkle in a little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, let it brown, then pour in enough boiling water as needed, season with pepper and salt, add a splash of lemon juice, bring to a boil, and pour it over the cutlets. Garnish with slices of broiled bacon, and a few meatballs make a great addition to this dish.
Time.—For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very thick, allow more time.
Time.—For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very thick, allow more time.
Average cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
Note.—Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown; the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe. They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving.
Note.—Veal cutlets can just be floured and fried until they're a nice brown; the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the previous recipe. They can also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the picture.
BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree).
BROILED VEAL CUTLETS Italian Style (an Entrée).
867. INGREDIENTS.—Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453.
867. INGREDIENTS.—Veal neck, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453.
Mode.—Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powder over them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of an egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and, afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, made by recipe No. 453, in the middle.
Mode.—Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them; brush them with the yolk of an egg, dip them in bread crumbs, then in clarified butter, and then back into the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear fire until they get a nice brown color. Arrange them in the dish alternating with strips of broiled ham, and pour the sauce from recipe No. 453 in the center.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes, depending on how thick the cutlets are.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10p per lb.
Seasonable from March to October.
Active from March to October.
THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.—When the restoration of Charles II. took the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a large section of society wedded to the former state of things. The elders of this party retired from public sight, where, unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the 30th of January in each year,—the anniversary of Charles's death, and dined together off a feast prepared from calves' heads, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell; and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained red in wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed by the chairman, carrying a calf's head pinned up in a napkin, marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early part of this century it was customary for men of republican politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January.
THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.—When Charles II. was restored to the throne, it lifted the restrictive mindset and serious religious atmosphere of the Commonwealth era and allowed the long-suppressed spirits of the people to emerge. However, a significant part of society remained attached to the previous situation. The older members of this group withdrew from public view, where, unharmed by the wild celebrations of the time, they could reflect in solitude on their lost ideal world. The younger members of this faction, who had to navigate the public sphere but despised the politics that had become trendy, came up with a unique way to keep their republican beliefs alive and show their disdain for the ruling family. So, every year on January 30th—the anniversary of Charles's death—they gathered in large numbers at a local inn and enjoyed a meal featuring calves' heads, prepared in a variety of ways, while drinking plenty of wine toasts in defiance and hatred toward the House of Stuart and in honor of the memory of Oliver Cromwell. They lit a huge bonfire in the yard, and the club of rebellious young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained red from wine, led by one member in a mask holding an axe, followed by the chairman carrying a calf's head wrapped in a napkin, paraded mockingly to the bonfire, where they tossed the wrapped head into the flames with loud cheers and chaos. This unusual tradition continued for some time, and even into the early part of this century, it was common for republicans to always eat calf's head on January 30th.
VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree).
VEAL CUTLETS à la Maintenon (an Entrée).
868. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little grated nutmeg.
868. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoons of minced savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, and brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs and minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them to table with melted butter or a good gravy.
Method.—Slice the cutlets to about 3/4 inch thick, flatten them out, and brush them with egg yolk. Dip them in bread crumbs and chopped herbs, seasoning with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Wrap each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Grill them, and serve with melted butter or a nice gravy.
Time.—From 15 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Time—From 15 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 10p. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE.
(Excellent.)
(Awesome.)
869. INGREDIENTS.—2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12 young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.
869. INGREDIENTS.—2 to 3 lbs. of veal loin or neck, 10 or 12 young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades of crushed mace, 1 bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.
Mode.—Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings into a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them a nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice, herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew gently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat, take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled separately; put them with the veal, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings into a saucepan with a little butter; place the cutlets in and fry them until they’re nicely browned on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spices, herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and simmer gently for 2 hours on a very low heat. When done, skim off the fat, remove the herbs, and season the gravy with a bit of tomato sauce and ketchup. Have the peas and potatoes boiled separately; add them to the veal, and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 9d.
Duration: 2 hours. Average cost: 2s. 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from June to August with peas;—rather earlier when these are omitted.
In season from June to August with peas;—somewhat earlier if these are left out.
SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).
SCOTCH COLLOPS (Chilled Meat Recipe).
870. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
870. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast veal, a bit of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of ground mace, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon of finely minced lemon peel, 2 tablespoons of sherry, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger than a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in butter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring it in by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and mace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravy with lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the veal the same thickness as cutlets, but a bit larger than a crown piece; coat the meat well in flour and fry it until it's a light brown in butter. Sprinkle with flour again, and gradually add 1/2 pint of water; set it on the stove, and when it comes to a boil, add the onion and mace, then let it simmer very gently for about 3/4 hour. Season the gravy with lemon juice, peel, wine, and ketchup in the amounts mentioned above; bring it to a boil once more, and serve.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Duration.—45 minutes.
Seasonable from March to October.
Seasonal from March to October.
SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery).
SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cooking).
871. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry.
871. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg, 2 blades of ground mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a bit of butter, 1 dessert spoon of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1 teaspoon of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of lemon zest, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 3 tablespoons of cream, 1 tablespoon of sherry.
Mode.—Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width; hack them with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy in the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and pour it over the collops; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon, rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not at hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk.
Mode.—Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches wide; score them with a knife, and grate nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt on top, then fry them in a little butter. Plate the slices, and make a gravy in the pan by adding the remaining ingredients. Bring it to a boil, and pour it over the collops; garnish with lemon and rolled slices of toasted bacon. Forcemeat balls can also be added to this dish. If you don't have cream, substitute it with a well-beaten egg yolk mixed with a little milk.
Time.—About 5 or 7 minutes.
Time.—Approximately 5 to 7 minutes.
Seasonable from May to October.
Seasonal from May to October.
COOKING COLLOPS.—Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his "Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," a number of famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the following:—A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to which the astounding reply—this was 60 years ago, and a Dean tells the story—"Oh, d—n her decency; can she make good collops?"
COOKING COLLOPS.—Dean Ramsay, who shares in his "Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," several well-known stories about the strong-willed, warm-hearted, and straightforward old women of the north, includes the following: A strong-minded lady from this group was asking about the character of a cook she was about to hire. The woman giving the reference said a bit about the cook's moral qualities and described her as a very decent woman; to which the surprising reply—this was 60 years ago, and a Dean tells the story—was, "Oh, forget her decency; can she make good collops?"
ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.
872. INGREDIENTS.—Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.
872. INGREDIENTS.—Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.
Mode.—Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take out the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap a nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, as there should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a mince if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge well with flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and baste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer the fire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by a silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut lemon to table with roast veal.
Mode.—Have the fillet cut to the required size; remove the bone, and after separating the skin from the meat, place a nice filling made using recipe No. 417 under the flap. Prepare enough of this, as you should have some left to eat cold and to season and flavor a mince if needed. Skewer and bind the veal into a round shape; dust it well with flour, starting it at a distance from the fire, and baste it continuously. About half an hour before serving, move it closer to the fire so it can gain more color, as the exterior should be a rich brown but not burnt. Plate it up, remove the skewers, replacing them with a silver one; pour some good melted butter over the joint and serve it with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never forget to bring a cut lemon to the table with roast veal.
[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Fillet.]
Time.—A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours.
Time.—A 12 lb. veal roast, approximately 4 hours.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.
Enough for 9 or 10 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.
873. INGREDIENTS.—A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickening of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass of sherry.
873. INGREDIENTS.—A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a thickening of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, 2 blades of ground mace, 1/2 glass of sherry.
Mode.—If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies. Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll and skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weak stock. Let it simmer very gently until tender, as the more slowly veal is stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it with lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper; give one boil, and pour it over the meat. The skewers should be removed, and replaced by a silver one, and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon.
Method.—If you buy the whole leg, cut off the knuckle for stewing, and also the square end, which you can use for cutlets or pies. Take out the bone and fill the space with a filling as described in No. 417. Roll and secure it tightly with skewers; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to stop the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with some light stock. Let it simmer very gently until tender, as the slower you stew veal, the better it is. Strain and thicken the sauce, adding lemon juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper for flavor; bring it to a boil and pour it over the meat. Remove the skewers and replace them with a silver one, then garnish the dish with slices of lemon.
Time.—A. fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' very gentle stewing.
Time.—A fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs. should be stewed very gently for 3 hours.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
THE GOLDEN CALF.—We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in the lengthened absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people to make them an image to worship; and that Aaron, instead of using his delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes, and appease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their demand, and, telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out of their willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitude fell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold, or a wooden effigy merely, coated with metal, is uncertain. To suppose the former,—knowing the size of the image made from such trifling articles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to have spoiled the Egyptians most unmercifully: the figure, however, is of more consequence than the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelite brought away more from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they were deeply imbued with Egyptian superstition, the golden calf is only one, out of many instances of proof; for a gilded ox, covered with a pall, was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the Egyptian trinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holy bull, this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the sun, and offered to it divine honours, as the emblem of frugality, industry, and husbandry. It is therefore probable that, in borrowing so familiar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship, meant, under a well-understood cherubic symbol, to acknowledge the full force of those virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea is full of denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes to the custom of kissing these idols, Hosea, viii, 4-6.
THE GOLDEN CALF.—In the book of Genesis, we're told that Aaron, during Moses' long absence, was pressured by the impatient crowd to create an image for them to worship. Instead of using his authority to stop this sinful demand and calm the dissatisfied Israelites, Aaron immediately gave in. He asked them to bring him their rings and jewelry, and from their willing contributions, he shaped a golden calf. The multitude then bowed down and worshipped it. It's unclear whether this image was a solid gold statue or just a wooden figure coated in metal. If it was solid gold, considering the size made from such small items like rings, we would have to assume the Israelites took a considerable amount from the Egyptians. However, the significance of the figure matters more than its size or weight. The Israelites left Goshen with more than just Egyptian plunder and were heavily influenced by Egyptian beliefs; the golden calf is just one example of this. In Egypt, a gilded ox covered with a veil was a symbol of Osiris, one of their gods. Along with their sacred cow and various holy bulls, this priest-dominated society worshipped the ox as a representation of the sun, offering it divine honors as a symbol of hard work, agriculture, and prosperity. Therefore, it's likely that by adopting such a familiar symbol, the Israelites intended, through their calf-worship, to acknowledge the full significance of these virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea strongly criticizes calf-worship in Israel and mentions the practice of kissing these idols (Hosea 8:4-6).
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree).
Veal Fricandeau (an Entree).
874. INGREDIENTS.—A piece of the fat side of a leg of veal (about 3 lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to taste, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107.
874. INGREDIENTS.—A piece of the fatty side of a leg of veal (about 3 lbs.), strips of pork fat, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a bundle of savory herbs, 2 crushed mace blades, 6 whole allspice berries, 2 bay leaves, pepper to taste, a few slices of bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107.
[Illustration: FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Fricandeau.]
Mode.—The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or it will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not thready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at one stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife make two or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as lean gives a red colour to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and put these, with the herbs and spices, in the middle of a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon at the top: these should form a sort of mound in the centre for the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over it a little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon, &c., without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil; then put it over a slow and equal fire, and let it simmer very gently for about 2-1/2 hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste it frequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it into a brisk oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat from the liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the fricandeau, and serve with a purée of whatever vegetable happens to be in season—spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c.
Mode.—The veal for a fricandeau should be top quality, or it won’t taste good. You can tell it’s good if the meat is white and not fibrous. Remove the skin, flatten the veal on the table, and with a single cut of the knife, slice off what you need, as a fricandeau with an uneven surface doesn’t look appealing. Trim it, and with a sharp knife, make two or three slits in the middle to enhance the flavor from the seasoning. Now lard it generously with fat bacon, as lean bacon will make the fricandeau turn red. Slice the vegetables and place them, along with the herbs and spices, in the middle of a stewpan, topping it with a few slices of bacon to create a mound in the center for the veal to sit on. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle it lightly with salt, and pour in just enough stock to cover the bacon without touching the veal. Allow it to come to a boil slowly, then reduce the heat and let it simmer gently for about 2-1/2 hours, or longer if it’s quite large. Baste it frequently with the liquid, and a little while before serving, put it in a hot oven to firm up the bacon, which might otherwise break when glazed. Serve the fricandeau hot, skim off the fat from the liquid, and quickly reduce it to a glaze to use on the fricandeau. Serve it with a purée of whatever vegetables are in season—spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, etc.
Time.—2-1/2 hours. If very large, allow more time.
Time.—2.5 hours. If it's very large, allow more time.
Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, £3.30.
Sufficient for an entrée.
Good enough for an entrée.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (More economical.)
Veal Fricandeau (More affordable.)
875. INGREDIENTS.—The best end of a neck of veal (about 2-1/2 lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fat bacon.
875. INGREDIENTS.—The best part of a veal neck (about 2-1/2 lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a bundle of savory herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2 bay leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fatty bacon.
Mode.—Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with a little water, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau: they should stew about 1-1/2 hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the preceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch the fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel, spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish.
Mode.—Trim the lean meat from the best end of a neck of veal using a sharp knife, removing it from the bones. Place the bones in a pot with a little water to help keep the fricandeau moist; let them simmer for about 1-1/2 hours. Lard the veal, following the same method as in the previous recipe, making sure the gravy doesn't touch the fricandeau. Cook very gently for 3 hours; glaze it and serve it on a bed of sorrel, spinach, or with a bit of gravy on the side.
Time.—3 hours.
Duration.—3 hours.
Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, £2.30.
Sufficient for an entrée.
Good enough for an entrée.
Seasonable from March to October.
< i>In season from March to October.
Note.—When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole; consequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. The best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well.
Note.—When the main part of the leg is removed, it ruins the entire thing; therefore, using this for a fricandeau is somewhat wasteful. The best part of the neck works just as well, if not better.
BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin on).
BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin On).
876. INGREDIENTS.—Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 large bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 grains of cayenne.
876. INGREDIENTS.—Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 large bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoons of melted butter, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 2 or 3 pinches of cayenne.
Mode.—Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, and with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come off easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for a few minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan, into which lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring it gradually to boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists to throw it up. Simmer it very gently from 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when nearly done, boil the brains for 1/4 hour; skin and chop them, not too finely, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, &c., into about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the lemon-juice and cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire. Take up the head, cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brains round it; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley; brown these before the fire, and serve with a tureen of parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as an accompaniment.
Mode.—Place the head in boiling water and let it sit by the fire for 3 to 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, and use the back of a knife to scrape off the hair (if it doesn't come off easily, dip the head back into boiling water). Once it's completely clean, remove the eyes, cut off the ears, and take out the brain, soaking it for an hour in warm water. Soak the head in hot water for a few minutes to make it appear white, then prepare a stewpan to place the head in; cover it with cold water and bring it to a boil gradually. Skim off the foam, and add a little salt to help with this process. Let it simmer gently for 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when it's nearly done, boil the brains for 15 minutes; skin and chop them, but not too finely, and mix in a tablespoon of previously scalded minced parsley. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, etc., into about 4 tablespoons of melted butter; add lemon juice and cayenne, keeping this hot by the fire. Remove the head, cut out the tongue, skin it, and place it on a small dish with the brains around it; sprinkle a few breadcrumbs mixed with a little minced parsley over the head; brown these by the fire and serve with a bowl of parsley and butter, along with either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as a side dish.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Duration.—2.5 to 3 hours.
Average cost, according to the season, from 3s. to 7s. 6d.
Average cost, depending on the season, from 3 shillings to 7 shillings 6 pence.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
Enough for 8 or 9 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin).
BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin).
877. INGREDIENTS.—Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
877. INGREDIENTS.—Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoons of melted butter, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
[Illustration: HALF A CALF'S HEAD.]
[Illustration: HALF A CALF HEAD.]
Mode.—After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brains removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also into warm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put the head into a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it boils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it rises, and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop them, and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the tongue, and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready some parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek, are indispensable with calf's head. The brains are sometimes chopped with hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Béchamel or white sauce.
Mode.—After the head has been thoroughly cleaned and the brains removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Also, place the brains in warm water to soak and let them sit for about an hour. Put the head in a stewpan with enough cold water to cover it, and when it boils, add a little salt; skim off any scum that rises and boil the head until it's completely tender. Boil the brains, chop them up, and mix with melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and lemon juice in the same proportions. Remove the head, skin the tongue, and place it on a small dish with the brains arranged around it. Have some parsley and butter ready, smother the head with it, and serve the rest in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek are essential accompaniments for calf's head. The brains can also be chopped with hard-boiled eggs and mixed with a bit of Béchamel or white sauce.
Time.—From 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 hours.
Time: 1.5 to 2.25 hours.
Average cost, according to the season, from 3s. to 5s.
Average cost, depending on the season, from 3 shillings to 5 shillings.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
Note.—The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: it makes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c. Half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being a more convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the same manner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding recipe.
Note.—The liquid used to boil the head should be saved: it makes great soup and is a nice addition to gravies, etc. Half a calf's head is just as often served as a whole one, as it is a more convenient size for a small family. It is cooked and served with the same sauces as in the previous recipe.
HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery).
HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery).
878. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart of the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls.
878. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart of the broth it was boiled in, a bundle of savory herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon peel, 2 blades of ground mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a small amount of cayenne, just over 2 tablespoons of sherry, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, and forcemeat balls.
Mode.—Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head was boiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour, or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a clean stewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouring of sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; season with pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it gradually warm through, but not boil more than two or three minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon rolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table very hot.
Mode.—Slice the meat neatly and put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with the same amount of liquid that the head was cooked in. Add a bunch of herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a piece of lemon peel, and 2 crushed mace blades, and let this boil for 1 hour, or until the gravy reduces by almost half. Strain it into a clean saucepan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a splash of sherry, lemon juice, and ketchup, in the same amounts as before; season with pepper, salt, and a pinch of cayenne; add the meat, and let it warm through gradually, but don't let it boil for more than two or three minutes. Garnish the dish with meatballs and pieces of rolled and toasted bacon, arranged alternately, and serve it hot.
Time.—Altogether 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—Total 1.5 hours.
Average cost, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6d.
Average cost, not including the leftover head, 6d.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree).
Veal Cutlets (an Entree).
879. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, a few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs, gravy.
879. INGREDIENTS.—About 2 lbs. of the best part of the leg of veal, a few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne pepper to taste, egg and breadcrumbs, gravy.
Mode.—Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay on each a piece of thin bacon of the same size; have ready some forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle over all a little cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be more than 2 inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry them a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occasionally, and shaking the pan about. When done, place them on a dish before the fire; put a small piece of butter in the pan, dredge in a little flour, add 1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a seasoning of salt, pepper, and pounded mace; let the whole boil up, and pour it over the collops.
Mode.—Cut the veal into long, thin slices, flatten them, and place a piece of thin bacon of the same size on each slice; prepare some forcemeat, made according to recipe No. 417, and spread it over the bacon. Sprinkle a little cayenne on top, roll them up tightly, making sure they are no longer than 2 inches. Skewer each one securely, dip them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them until they’re a nice brown in a bit of butter, turning them occasionally and shaking the pan. When they’re done, place them on a dish in front of the fire; put a small piece of butter in the pan, sprinkle in a little flour, add 1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and a seasoning of salt, pepper, and ground mace; let it all come to a boil, and pour it over the collops.
Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes.
Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Average cost, 10p per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
CALF'S LIVER AUX FINES HERBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE.
CALF'S LIVER WITH FINE HERBS & SPICY SAUCE.
880. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint water.
880. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savory herbs, including parsley; if desired, 2 minced shallots; 1 teaspoon of flour, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it into slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish, which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in the frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients, simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver.
Mode.—Get a calf's liver that’s as white as possible and slice it into evenly shaped pieces. Coat them in flour and fry in a bit of butter until they have a nice color. Once cooked, place them on a dish and keep it warm by the fire. Finely chop the herbs and put them in the frying pan with a bit more butter; add the other ingredients, simmer gently until the herbs are cooked, and pour over the liver.
Time.—According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.
Time.—Depending on the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.
Average cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Average cost, 10p. per lb.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.
881. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 1/4 pint of water.
881. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of bacon as there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dish before the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon, after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very little flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and when done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each. Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in a little flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour it in the middle of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cut lemon, or forcemeat balls.
Mode.—Slice the liver thinly, and cut the same number of bacon slices as liver slices; fry the bacon first and place it on a hot dish in front of the fire. Fry the liver in the fat from the bacon, seasoning it with pepper and salt, and lightly dusting it with flour. Turn the liver occasionally to avoid burning, and when it's done, arrange it around the dish with a slice of bacon between each piece. Pour off the bacon fat, add a small piece of butter, sprinkle in a little flour, then mix in the lemon juice and water. Bring it to a boil and pour it in the middle of the dish. You can garnish it with lemon slices or forcemeat balls.
Time.—According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.
Time.—Depending on the thickness of the slices, cook for 5 to 10 minutes.
Average cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Average cost, 10 pence per pound. Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree).
CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree).
882. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons, brown gravy.
882. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay leaf, lardoons, brown gravy.
Mode.—Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a fricandeau; put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in this pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with the vinegar, &c.; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or sauce piquante, and send it to table very hot.
Mode.—Take a nice white liver and lard it like a fricandeau; put it in vinegar with an onion sliced, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and seasonings as mentioned above. Let it soak in this marinade for 24 hours, then roast it, basting frequently with the vinegar, etc.; glaze it, serve it with a rich brown gravy or piquant sauce, and bring it to the table very hot.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 10d. per lb.
Time.—A bit more than 1 hour. Average cost, 10p per lb.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Seasonal from March to October.
Note.—Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has been added a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It should be larded or wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire. Brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it.
Note.—Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, which has had a bit of fatty bacon added, will be a very flavorful dish. It should be larded or wrapped in buttered paper and roasted over an open fire. Serve it with brown gravy and currant jelly.
FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).
FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).
883. INGREDIENTS.—A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter.
883. INGREDIENTS.—A small piece of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, a few breadcrumbs, clarified butter.
Mode.—A fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day will answer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leaving a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there should be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince finely the meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the forcemeat to flavour, and stir to it sufficient Béchamel to make it of a proper consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, taking care to baste it well, that it may not be dry; put the mince in the place where the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it, and drop a little clarified butter on the bread crumbs; put it into the oven for 1/4 hour to brown, and pour Béchamel round the sides of the dish.
Mode.—A fillet of veal that was roasted the day before works well for this dish. Cut out a deep section from the middle, leaving a good margin around it for nice slices. If there are any cracks in the veal, fill them with forcemeat. Finely mince the meat you removed and mix it with a bit of the forcemeat for flavor, then stir in enough Béchamel to achieve the right consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, making sure to baste it well so it doesn't dry out; fill the space where the meat was taken out with the minced mixture, sprinkle some breadcrumbs on top, and drizzle a little clarified butter over the breadcrumbs. Place it in the oven for 15 minutes to brown, and pour Béchamel around the sides of the dish.
Time.—Altogether 1-1/2 hour.
Duration.—Total 1.5 hours.
Seasonable from March to October.
Open from March to October.
TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
884. INGREDIENTS.—Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1 onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a few young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomato sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon.
884. INGREDIENTS.—Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1 onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery seed, a bunch of savory herbs, 2 blades of ground mace, a thickening of butter and flour, a few young carrots, 1 tablespoon of ketchup, 1 tablespoon of tomato sauce, 3 tablespoons of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon.
Mode.—Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, season with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a little butter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the bone (which should be chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, and carrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it simmer very gently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out the slices of meat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put back the meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When in season, a few green peas, boiled separately, and added to this dish at the moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition.
Method.—Slice the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat pieces, season with pepper and salt, and coat them in flour. Fry them in a little butter until they're a light brown, then transfer them to a stew pot along with the bone (chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, and carrots; pour about 1 pint of hot water over everything, and let it simmer gently for 2 hours on a slow but clear heat. Remove the slices of meat and carrots, strain the gravy, and thicken it with a bit of butter mixed with flour; add the remaining ingredients, bring it to a boil, return the meat and carrots to the pot, let everything heat through, and serve. When in season, adding a few green peas, boiled separately, to the dish just before serving would be a delightful addition.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 5d. to 6d. per lb.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 5p. to 6p. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 6 persons.
Fits 4 to 6 people.
STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE.
885. INGREDIENTS.—Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. of rice.
885. INGREDIENTS.—Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 lb. of rice.
[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: VEAL KNUCKLE.]
Mode.—Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, that it may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, as cold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish. Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and put the meat into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put in the salt, and remove the scum as fast as it rises. When it has simmered gently for about 3/4 hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew the whole gently for 2-1/4 hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour over it the rice, &c., and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley and butter to table with it.
Mode.—Cut the knuckle into small pieces, or slice some cutlets from it, so it's just the right size to be eaten the same day it's cooked, since cold boiled veal isn't very appealing. Break the shank bone, wash it thoroughly, and place the meat in a stewpan with enough water to cover it. Allow it to come to a boil gradually, add the salt, and skim off any foam as it appears. After it has simmered gently for about 45 minutes, add the remaining ingredients and let it stew gently for 2 hours and 15 minutes. Transfer the meat to a deep dish, pour the rice over it, and serve with boiled bacon and a tureen of parsley and butter.
Time.—A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' gentle stewing.
Time.—A 6 lb. knuckle of veal, stewed gently for 3 hours.
Average cost, 5d. to 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 5 to 6 pence per pound.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
Note.—Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be found good; or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent to table smothered in parsley and butter.
Note.—Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, is a good option; or you can skip the rice and macaroni and serve the veal covered in parsley and butter.
ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.
[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Chop.]
886. INGREDIENTS.—Veal; melted butter.
Veal; melted butter.
Mode.—Paper the kidney fat; roll in and skewer the flap, which makes the joint a good shape; dredge it well with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Should the loin be very large, skewer the kidney back for a time to roast thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a short time before serving, remove the paper from the kidney, and allow it to acquire a nice brown colour, but it should not be burnt. Have ready some melted butter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of its contents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with it, boiled bacon, ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek.
Method.—Cover the kidney fat with paper; roll it up and secure the flap, which gives the joint a nice shape; dust it well with flour, and place it over a hot fire. If the loin is very large, skewer the kidney back for a while to ensure it roasts thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and shortly before serving, take off the paper from the kidney and let it develop a nice brown color, but don't let it burn. Have some melted butter ready, pour it into the dripping pan after it's been emptied, drizzle it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon and meatballs, and accompany it with boiled bacon, ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek.
Time.—A large loin, 3 hours.
Duration.—A large loin, 3 hours.
Average cost, 9-1/2d. per lb.
Average cost, 9.5p per lb.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
Note.—A piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when the veal is dished.
Note.—A slice of toast should be put under the kidney when the veal is served.
LOIN OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).
LOIN OF VEAL WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE (Cold Meat Cooking).
887. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, rather more than 1/2 pint of Béchamel or white sauce.
887. INGREDIENTS.—Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, just over 1/2 pint of Béchamel or white sauce.
Mode.—A loin of veal which has come from table with very little taken off, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the inside, mince it, and mix with it some minced lemon-peel; put it into sufficient Béchamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the joint in buttered paper, and place it in the oven to warm. When thoroughly hot, dish the mince, place the loin above it, and pour over the remainder of the Béchamel.
Mode.—A loin of veal that hasn't been trimmed too much works great for this dish. Cut the meat from the inside, mince it, and mix in some minced lemon peel; then add it to enough Béchamel to warm through. In the meantime, wrap the joint in buttered paper and put it in the oven to heat up. Once it's thoroughly hot, plate the minced mixture, place the loin on top, and pour the remaining Béchamel over it.
Time.—1-1/2 hour to warm the meat in the oven.
Time.—1.5 hours to heat the meat in the oven.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube.
LOIN OF VEAL, in the style of Daube.
888. INGREDIENTS.—The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6 green onions.
888. INGREDIENTS.—The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of bacon, a bunch of savory herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2 teaspoon of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6 green onions.
Mode.—Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the bone; fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and lay it in a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the veal with a few slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, and stock or water; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and simmer for 2 hours, shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, and onions; reduce the gravy, if not already thick enough, to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce.
Mode.—Cut off the chump from a loin of veal and remove the bone. Fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and place it in a stewpan along with the bones and trimmings. Cover the veal with a few slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, along with stock or water. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for 2 hours, shaking the stewpan occasionally. Remove the bacon, herbs, and onions. If the gravy isn't already thick enough, reduce it to a glaze, then glaze the meat and serve it with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce.
Time.—2 hours.
Duration.—2 hours.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
MINCED VEAL, with Béchamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery).
MINCED VEAL with Béchamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery).
(Very Good.)
(Very Good.)
889. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat balls.
889. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, and some forcemeat balls.
Mode.—Cut—but do not chop—a few slices of cold roast veal as finely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb., weighed after being minced. Make the above proportion of Béchamel, by recipe No. 367; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the whole gradually warm through. When it is at the point of simmering, dish it, and garnish with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread.
Mode.—Thinly slice a few pieces of cold roast veal, aiming for just over 1 lb. after it's minced. Prepare the specified amount of Béchamel from recipe No. 367; add the lemon zest, mix in the veal, and let everything heat through slowly. When it's about to start simmering, serve it and garnish with meatballs and crispy pieces of fried bread.
Time.—To simmer 1 minute.
Time.—Simmer for 1 minute.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
MINCED VEAL.
(More Economical.)
(More Affordable.)
890. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk.
890. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast fillet or loin of veal, just over 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of ground mace, 2 or 3 young carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a thickener made of butter and flour, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and 3 tablespoons of cream or milk.
Mode.—Take about 1 lb. of veal, and should there be any bones, dredge them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside, and a few meat trimmings; add rather more than a pint of water, the onion cut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmer these well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. Rub a little flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, set it on the fire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by cutting, and not chopping it; put it in the gravy; let it get warmed through gradually; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on the point of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread and slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may also be added. If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, put a little very finely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy.
Mode.—Take about 1 lb. of veal, and if there are any bones, coat them with flour and place them in a stew pot with the brown side down, along with some meat scraps; add a little more than a pint of water, sliced onion, lemon peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmer these well for just over 1 hour, and strain the liquid. Mix a little flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, put it on the heat, and when it boils, skim off the top. Finely mince the veal by cutting it, not chopping; add it to the gravy and let it warm up gradually; then add the lemon juice and cream, and when it's about to boil, serve. Garnish the dish with toasted bread cubes and rolled, toasted bacon slices. You can also add forcemeat balls. If you prefer more lemon peel than mentioned, add a small amount very finely minced to the veal after it has warmed in the gravy.
Time.—1 hour to make the gravy.
Time.—1 hour to prepare the gravy.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 6d.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.—A singular symbolical ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine power, or what was called the Elohim,—the Almighty intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,—was looked upon much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when, the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time, and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance, took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine—Jeremiah, xxxiv. 15-17.
THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.—A unique symbolic ceremony was practiced among the Hebrews, where the calf played a crucial role. The calf represented Divine power, or what was called the Elohim—the Almighty intelligence that led them out of Egypt. The Jews regarded it similarly to how Christians later viewed the cross, as a mystical emblem of Divine love and sacrifice. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by both Jews and Christians, and breaking it was seen as a serious betrayal on their part and an offense directly against the Almighty. To make the oath more impactful and serious, it was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple. The priests would then divide the carcass into a specific number of parts and arrange the severed limbs on the marble floor, with spaces in between. Each person bound by the oath would move in and out through the different spaces while repeating the words of the pact until they had completed the circuit of each portion of the divided calf, marking the end of the ceremony. To avoid the Lord’s wrath when Jerusalem was threatened by Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian army, the Jews made a solemn vow to God, confirmed by the calf ceremony, promising to free their Hebrew brethren if He saved them from their feared enemy. After besieging the city for some time and causing the inhabitants terrible suffering, the Babylonians, upon learning that Pharaoh—the ally the Jews had appealed to for help—was approaching with a strong army, quickly lifted the siege and moved to a distance where they could block the Egyptians while still covering the city. As soon as the Jews saw the enemy retreat, they thought all danger was over and, in their usual selfishness, broke their vow and refused to free their oppressed countrymen. For violating their covenant with the Lord, they faced the horrors of war, disease, and famine—Jeremiah, xxxiv. 15-17.
MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI.
(A pretty side or corner dish.)
(A nice side or corner dish.)
891. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1 tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs to bind, a small piece of butter.
891. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1 tablespoon of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoons of grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs to bind, a small piece of butter.
Mode.—Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of ham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bind the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil the macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some of the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked; mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, put a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it out carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the meat.
Mode.—Slice some nice pieces from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the brown edges, and finely chop the meat with the same amount of ham. If the meat is very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season generously with pepper and salt, add grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 well-beaten eggs to bind the mixture like forcemeat. Meanwhile, boil the macaroni in salted water and drain it; butter a mold and line the bottom and sides with some of the macaroni, in any shape you prefer. Mix the rest of the macaroni with the forcemeat, fill the mold to the top, place a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 30 minutes. Carefully turn it out and serve with good gravy poured around, but not over, the meat.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold meat, 10 pence.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
Note.—To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in a little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inch in thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and red stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in the foregoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould.
Note.—To create a variation, boil some carrots and turnips separately in a little salt and water; once cooked, slice them into pieces about 1/8 inch thick. Grease an oval mold with butter, and arrange the pieces in it, alternating white and red stripes on the bottom and sides. Follow the steps from the previous recipe, and be very careful when turning it out of the mold.
MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cooking).
892. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon, 1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1 egg.
892. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon, 1/4 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 1/2 onion, finely chopped, salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1 egg.
Mode.—Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin and outside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding the lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind the mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn it out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. A sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish.
Mode.—Finely chop the meat after removing all the skin and tough bits, and chop the bacon; mix everything together well, adding the lemon zest, onion, spices, mace, and toast. Once all the ingredients are fully combined, warm up an egg to bind the mixture. Grease a mold, put in the meat, and bake for 45 minutes; carefully remove it from the mold and pour a nice brown gravy around it. A sheep's head prepared this way is a cost-effective and tasty dish.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
Time – 45 minutes. Average cost, not including the meat, 6d.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
BRAISED NECK OF VEAL.
893. INGREDIENTS.—The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.), bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not obtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace.
893. INGREDIENTS.—The best end of the neck of veal (3 to 4 lbs.), bacon, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a bit of celery (if celery isn’t available, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, a butter and flour thickener, lemon juice, and 1 blade of ground mace.
Mode.—Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put it into a stewpan with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery; and do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, or until it is quite tender; strain off the liquor; stir together over the fire, in a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown; lay the veal in this, the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain till of a nice brown colour. Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan as much gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, pounded mace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, and serve.
Mode.—Prepare the bacon for larding by rolling it in minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal and place it in a stewpan with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery; make sure not to cover it completely with water. Let it stew gently for 2 hours, or until it's really tender; strain off the liquid; mix a little flour and butter over the heat in a stewpan until it's browned; place the veal in this mixture, with the top side facing the bottom of the pan, and let it cook until it's nicely browned. Put it in a dish; pour as much gravy as needed into the stewpan, bring it to a boil, skim well, add the wine, ground mace, and lemon juice; let it simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, and serve.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours.
Time.—Just over 2 hours.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
BIRTH OF CALVES.—The cow seldom produces more than a single calf; sometimes, twins, and, very rarely, three. A French newspaper, however,—the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences,"—gave a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three successive years. The first year, four cow calves; the second year, three calves, two of them females; the third year, two calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the first birth, all were suckled by the mother.
BIRTH OF CALVES.—Cows usually give birth to just one calf; occasionally, they have twins, and very rarely, three. A French newspaper, the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences," reported a reliable but remarkable story about a cow that gave birth to a total of nine calves over three consecutive years. In the first year, she had four male calves; the second year, three calves, including two females; and the third year, two calves, both females. Except for two from the first birth, all were raised by their mother.
ROAST NECK OF VEAL.
894. INGREDIENTS.—Veal, melted butter, forcemeat balls.
Ingredients: veal, melted butter, meatballs.
Mode.—Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck; dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; dish it, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with fried forcemeat balls; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag may be boiled or stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or parsley and butter.
Method.—Cut veal from the best part of the neck; coat it with flour and cook it over a bright, clear fire; make sure to baste it well. Serve it with melted butter poured over the top, and garnish the dish with fried meatballs; serve with a cut lemon. The scrag can be boiled or stewed in different ways, served with rice, onion sauce, or parsley and butter.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Time.—About 2 hours. Average cost, 8p. per lb.
Sufficient.—4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient.—4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).
VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).
895. INGREDIENTS.—A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few thin slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, puff-crust.
895. INGREDIENTS.—A few thin slices of cold veal fillet, a few thin slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cup of gravy, 4 tablespoons of cream, puff pastry.
Mode.—Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thin slices of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417, with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne; roll them tightly, and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the gravy and cream, cover with a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hour: should the pie be very large, allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3 inches in length, and about 3 inches round.
Method.—Cut thin slices from a veal fillet, place thin slices of bacon on top, and then add a layer of forcemeat, made using recipe No. 417, with extra seasoning of shallot and cayenne; roll them tightly and fill a pie dish with them; add the gravy and cream, cover with a puff pastry crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hours: if the pie is very large, allow for 2 hours. The rolled veal pieces should be about 3 inches long and about 3 inches wide.
Time.—Moderate-sized pie, 1 to 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—Medium pie, 1 to 1.5 hours.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery).
FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cooking).
896. INGREDIENTS.—Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 egg boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste.
896. INGREDIENTS.—Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 hard-boiled egg, ground mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, good puff pastry.
Mode.—Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham to two-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning of pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; moisten with a little gravy and cream. Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, and cut it into round or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be also baked in patty-pans: in that case, they should be brushed over with the yolk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety, oysters may be substituted for the ham.
Mode.—Chop up some cold veal and ham, using one-third ham to two-thirds veal. Add a hard-boiled and chopped egg, along with a mix of ground mace, salt, pepper, and lemon zest. Moisten it with a bit of gravy and cream. Prepare a good puff pastry; roll it out fairly thin and cut it into round or square pieces. Place the meat mixture between two pieces, pinch the edges to seal in the gravy, and fry until light brown. They can also be baked in little tart pans; in that case, brush them with egg yolk before putting them in the oven. For a variation, you can replace the ham with oysters.
Time.—15 minutes to fry the patties.
Time.—15 minutes to cook the patties.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
VEAL PIE.
897. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of gravy.
897. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons of minced savory herbs, 2 blades of ground mace, crust, 1 teacup of gravy.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; put them in a pie-dish with the savoury herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed at the top: if possible, this should be previously cooked, as undressed bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a little water, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is approved; brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/2 hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done by removing the top ornament, and replacing it after the gravy is added.
Mode.—Cut the cutlets into square pieces and season them with pepper, salt, and ground mace. Place them in a pie dish with some savory herbs sprinkled on top, along with 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed on top; if possible, use cooked bacon, as raw bacon can turn the veal red and ruin its appearance. Add a bit of water, cover with crust, and decorate it in whatever way you like; brush it with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a preheated oven for about 1.5 hours. After baking, pour in some good gravy by removing the top decoration and replacing it after adding the gravy.
Time.—About 1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—Approximately 1.5 hours. Average cost, 2.5.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
A VERY VEAL DINNER.—At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, a Scotch nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, a roasted fillet of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf's head, and calf's-foot jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his guests, volunteered an explanation.—"Oh, ay, it's a' cauf; when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the tither."
A VERY VEAL DINNER.—At a dinner hosted by Lord Polkemmet, a Scottish nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were taken off, that the meal included veal broth, a roasted fillet of veal, veal cutlets, veal pie, a calf's head, and calf's-foot jelly. The judge, noticing the surprise of his guests, offered an explanation.—"Oh, yes, it’s all calf; when we slaughter an animal, we just eat one side and down the other."
VEAL AND HAM PIE.
898. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. of boiled ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of water, nearly 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust.
898. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. of boiled ham, 2 tablespoons of chopped savory herbs, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 2 blades of ground mace, salt and pepper to taste, a strip of lemon peel finely chopped, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of water, almost 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff pastry.
Mode.—Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of them at the bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs, spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices; cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in this manner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes at the top. Lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about 1/2 pint of water; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1 to 1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken out of the oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly 1/2 pint of strong gravy: this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold, it may cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by adding a few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; but it will be found very good without any of the last-named additions.
Mode.—Cut the veal into nice square pieces and layer them at the bottom of a pie dish. Sprinkle some herbs, spices, seasoning, lemon peel, and sliced yolks of eggs over the veal. Cut the ham very thin and add a layer of it on top. Continue layering until the dish is full, making sure the ham is on top. Roll out puff pastry to cover the edge of the dish and pour in about 1/2 pint of water; cover with a crust, decorate it with leaves, brush it with egg yolk, and bake in a preheated oven for 1 to 1-1/2 hours, or longer if the pie is very large. Once you take it out of the oven, pour in almost 1/2 pint of strong gravy through a funnel at the top; it should be good enough to set into a firm jelly when cold. You can enhance this pie by adding a few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; however, it will be quite good even without those additions.
Time.—1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. Average cost, 3s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from March to October.
Time.—1.5 hours, or longer, if the pie is very large. Average cost, 3 shillings. Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. In season from March to October.
POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast).
Potted veal for breakfast.
899. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of veal allow 1/4 lb. of ham, cayenne and pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter; clarified butter.
899. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of veal, use 1/4 pound of ham, cayenne pepper and ground mace to taste, 6 ounces of fresh butter, and clarified butter.
Mode.—Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, and pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh butter in the above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, press it into potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If kept in a cool place, it will remain good some days.
Mode.—Finely chop the veal and ham together, then mash them well in a mortar with cayenne, ground mace, and fresh butter in the mentioned amounts. Once it's transformed into a perfectly smooth paste, pack it into potting pots and cover with clarified butter. If stored in a cool place, it will stay fresh for several days.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
NAMES OF CALVES, &c.—During the time the young male calf is suckled by his mother, he is called a bull-or ox-calf; when turned a year old, he is called a stirk, stot, or yearling; on the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old bull or steer (and in some counties a twinter); then, a three-year-old steer; and at four, an ox or a bullock, which latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked, that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for neat cattle, in a specific sense, and irrespective of sex; as the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but while sucking the mother, a cow-calf; at the age of a year, she is called a yearling quey; in another year, a heifer, or twinter; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter; and, at four years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms, may exist in different districts.
NAMES OF CALVES, &c.—While a young male calf is suckling from his mother, he is called a bull-calf or ox-calf; once he turns one year old, he’s referred to as a stirk, stot, or yearling; after his second birthday, he’s known as a two-year-old bull or steer (and in some areas, a twinter); next, he becomes a three-year-old steer; and by four years old, he’s called an ox or bullock, names he keeps for life. It’s worth noting that the term ox is commonly used to refer to cattle in general, regardless of gender, such as the British ox or the Indian ox. The female is called a cow, but while nursing, she’s a cow-calf; at one year old, she’s known as a yearling heifer; a year later, she’s a heifer or twinter; then, at three, she’s called a three-year-old heifer or twinter; and by four, she becomes a cow. Other local names might be used in different regions.
RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
900. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.
900. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of gravy, a thickener made of butter and flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 blade of crushed mace, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoon of sherry, 1 dessert spoon of lemon juice, and forcemeat balls.
Mode.—Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat into nice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, and fry a light brown; add the gravy (hot water may be substituted for this), thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about 1/4 hour; season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and lemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and fried rashers of bacon.
Mode.—Any cut of veal can work for this dish. Slice the meat into attractive pieces, put them in a stew pan with 1 oz. of butter, and cook until they're lightly browned; add the gravy (you can use hot water instead), thicken with a bit of butter and flour, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes; season with pepper, salt, and ground mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and lemon juice; bring to a boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with meatballs and crispy strips of bacon.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour.
Duration.—Total 30 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
Average cost, not including the cold meat, 6d.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
Note.—The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such as peas, cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two of green gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little with the meat, and then stewed in the gravy.
Note.—You can change the above recipe by adding vegetables like peas, cucumbers, lettuce, and sliced green onions, along with a dozen or so green gooseberries (without seeds). All of these should be lightly fried with the meat and then cooked in the gravy.
VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).
VEAL RISSOLES (Chilled Meat Recipes).
901. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs.
901. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon of chopped savory herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a pinch of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs, well beaten, bread crumbs.
Mode.—Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon; add the parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste with an egg; form into balls or cones; brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the dish with fried parsley.
Method.—Finely chop the veal with some ham or bacon; add the parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix everything into a paste with an egg; shape it into balls or cones; brush them with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and fry until golden brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the dish with fried parsley.
Time.—About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles.
Time.—Approximately 10 minutes to fry the rissoles.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).
Veal Rolls (Cold Meat Cooking).
902. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and bread crumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417.
902. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of a cold veal fillet, an egg and bread crumbs, a few slices of fatty bacon, forcemeat No. 417.
Mode.—Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal 1/2 inch thick; rub them over with egg; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of veal; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeat thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy.
Mode.—Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal that are 1/2 inch thick; coat them with egg; place a thin slice of fatty bacon over each piece of veal; brush these with egg, and then spread the forcemeat thinly on top; roll up each piece tightly, coat them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them until they are a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls.
Time.—Fry the rolls for 10 to 15 minutes.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed.
SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed.
903. INGREDIENTS.—A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pounded mace, water, thickening of butter and flour.
903. INGREDIENTS.—A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon, forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a bundle of savory herbs, 3 blades of ground mace, water, and a thickening made of butter and flour.
Mode.—Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the blade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not to pierce the skin; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out. Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by recipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly; put it into a stew-pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace; pour in just sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew very gently for about 5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done by thrusting a larding-needle in it: if it penetrates easily, it is sufficiently cooked. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter and flour, give one boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrots may be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish, and, when in season, green peas should always be served with this dish.
Method.—Remove the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the blade bone on one side, then on the other, making sure not to pierce the skin. Cut the bone from the knuckle and take it out. Fill the cavity where the bone was removed with a forcemeat made according to recipe No. 417. Roll and tightly bind the veal; place it in a stew pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace. Add just enough water to cover it, and let it simmer very gently for about 5 hours. Before serving, check if it’s cooked through by inserting a larding needle; if it goes in easily, it’s done. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, bring it to a boil, and pour it around the meat. A few young carrots can be boiled and placed around the dish as a garnish, and when in season, green peas should always be served with this dish.
Time.—5 hours. Average cost, 7d. per lb.
Time.—5 hours. Average cost, 7p. per lb.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from March to October.
Enough for 8 or 9 people. In season from March to October.
THE FATTENING OF CALVES.—The fattening of calves for the market is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple; milk is the chief article of their diet, and of this the calves require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to this, they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too cold, and freely supplied with dry litter. It is usual to exclude the light,—at all events to a great degree, and to put within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of licking. Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often attain a very large size; viz., 18 to 20 stone, exclusive of the offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken into consideration; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf, originally purchased for 8 shillings, will realize nearly the same number of pounds. For 4, or even 6 weeks, the milk of one cow is sufficient,—indeed half that quantity is enough for the first fortnight; but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows; but then it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food. Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 6 weeks, and will then sell for 5 or 6 pounds each: the milk of the cow is then ready for a successor. In this manner a relay of calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the end of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding one to a useless degree of corpulency.
THE FATTENING OF CALVES.—Fattening calves for the market is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, where many newly-born calves are regularly brought in from local farmers to be prepared for the butcher. The feeding method is quite simple; milk is the main part of their diet, and they need a steady supply from start to finish. Additionally, they should be kept in a well-ventilated area that isn’t too hot or too cold, with plenty of dry bedding. Light is usually kept low—at least to a large extent—and calves are given a lump of chalk to lick, which they enjoy. With this diet, calves can grow to a large size in about 8 to 9 weeks, often weighing 18 to 20 stone, not including the offal. Heavier weights are also common, without affecting the tenderness and richness of the meat. While feeding calves milk alone might seem costly at first, it’s not when everything is considered; for example, at 9 or 10 weeks old, a calf bought for 8 shillings can be sold for nearly the same amount in pounds. For 4 to even 6 weeks, the milk from one cow is enough—actually, half that amount suffices for the first two weeks—but after the 5th or 6th week, it will consume most of the milk from two average cows; however, it won’t need oil-cake, linseed, or any other food. Typically, calves aren’t kept past 6 weeks of age and can then be sold for 5 or 6 pounds each, leaving the cow's milk ready for the next calf. This way, a batch of calves can be prepared for the market from early spring to late summer, which is more beneficial than overfeeding one calf to an unhealthy level of fatness.
VEAL SAUSAGES.
904. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to every lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and pepper to taste.
904. INGREDIENTS.—Equal amounts of fatty bacon and lean veal; for every lb. of meat, add 1 teaspoon of minced sage, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry a nice brown.
Mode.—Finely chop the meat and bacon, and for every pound, use the specified amount of very finely minced sage; add a pinch of pepper and salt, mix everything well, shape it into flat cakes, and fry until nicely browned.
Seasonable from March to October.
Available from March to October.
STEWED VEAL, with Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes.
STEWED VEAL with peas, young carrots, and new potatoes.
905. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 15 young carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
905. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 lbs. of veal loin or neck, 15 young carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about 3/4 hour: it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into a stewpan with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; pour over it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2 hours. Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato sauce, and mushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready a pint of green peas boiled; put these with the meat, pour over it the gravy, and serve. The dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls. The meat, when preferred, may be cut into chops, and floured and fried instead of being roasted; and any part of veal dressed in this way will be found extremely savoury and good.
Mode.—Dust the meat with flour and roast or bake it for about 45 minutes until it turns a nice brown color. Place the meat in a pot with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; add enough boiling water to cover it and simmer gently for 2 hours. Remove the meat and herbs, transfer them to a deep dish, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and season it with lemon juice, tomato sauce, and mushroom ketchup in the proportions mentioned. Prepare a pint of boiled green peas; add these to the meat, pour the gravy over it, and serve. You can garnish the dish with a few meatballs. If you prefer, the meat can be cut into chops, floured, and fried instead of being roasted, and any cut of veal prepared this way will be very flavorful and delicious.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 9d. per lb.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 9 pence per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable, with peas, from June to August.
In season, with peas, from June to August.
BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entrée).
906. INGREDIENTS.—3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3 slices of toast, brown gravy.
906. INGREDIENTS.—3 sweetbreads, an egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3 slices of toast, brown gravy.
[Illustration: SWEETBREADS.]
[Illustration: SWEETBREADS.]
Mode.—Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to draw out the blood, and to improve their colour; let them remain for rather more than 1 hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow them to simmer for about 10 minutes, which renders them firm. Take them up, drain them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs; dip them in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs. Drop on them a little oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heated oven, and let them bake for nearly 3/4 hour. Make 3 pieces of toast; place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, but not over them, a good brown gravy.
Method.—Choose large white sweetbreads; place them in warm water to draw out the blood and enhance their color; let them soak for a little over an hour. Then, transfer them to boiling water and let them simmer for about 10 minutes, which makes them firm. Remove them, drain, brush with egg, and sprinkle with breadcrumbs; dip them in egg again, then coat with more breadcrumbs. Drizzle a little oiled butter on top, and place the sweetbreads in a moderately heated oven to bake for almost 45 minutes. Make 3 slices of toast; place the sweetbreads on the toast and pour a rich brown gravy around them, but not directly on top.
Time.—To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes.
Time.—Soak for 1 hour, boil for 10 minutes, and bake for 40 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. to 5s. Sufficient for an entrée.
Average cost, 1 to 5 shillings. Enough for a main dish.
Seasonable.—In full season from May to August.
In Season.—Available in full season from May to August.
FRIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entree).
FRIED SWEETBREADS à la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entrée).
907. INGREDIENTS.—3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maître d'hôtel sauce No. 466.
907. INGREDIENTS.—3 sweetbreads, egg and breadcrumbs, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, just over 1/2 pint of Maître d'hôtel sauce No. 466.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil them for 10 minutes; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, season with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the above proportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which will be in about 10 minutes; dish them, and pour over them a Maître d'hôtel sauce, made by recipe No. 466. The dish may be garnished with slices of cut lemon.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil them for 10 minutes; cut them into slices, coat them in egg and breadcrumbs, season with pepper and salt, and place them in a frying pan with the specified amount of butter. Keep flipping them until they're cooked, which should take about 10 minutes; serve them on a plate and drizzle with a Maître d'hôtel sauce, made according to recipe No. 466. You can garnish the dish with slices of lemon.
Time.—To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10 minutes.
Time.—Soak for 1 hour, broil for 10 minutes, fry for about 10 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. to 5s., according to the season.
Average cost, 1 shilling to 5 shillings, depending on the season.
Sufficient for an entrée.
Good enough for a main.
Seasonable.—In full season from May to August.
Seasonable.—In full season from May to August.
Note.—The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, and the slices of sweetbread dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may be substituted for the maitre d'hôtel sauce. This is a very simple method of dressing them.
Note.—You can skip the egg and breadcrumbs, and just coat the slices of sweetbread in a bit of flour instead. A nice gravy can replace the maitre d'hôtel sauce. This is a really straightforward way to prepare them.
STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entrée).
908. INGREDIENTS.—3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper and salt to taste.
908. INGREDIENTS.—3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107, thickening made from butter and flour, 6 tablespoons of cream, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 blade of ground mace, white pepper, and salt to taste.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil them for 10 minutes; take them out, put them into cold water for a few minutes; lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them gently for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour; let it boil up, add the remaining ingredients, allow the sauce to get quite hot, but not boil, and pour it over the sweetbreads.
Mode.—Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, then boil them for 10 minutes; take them out and put them in cold water for a few minutes. Place them in a saucepan with the stock and simmer gently for a little more than 30 minutes. Plate them; thicken the gravy with a bit of butter and flour; let it come to a boil, add the remaining ingredients, allow the sauce to get quite hot, but not boil, and pour it over the sweetbreads.
Time.—To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather more than 1/2 hour.
Time.—Soak for 1 hour, boil for 10 minutes, and stew for a little over 30 minutes.
Average cost, from 1s. to 5s., according to the season.
Average cost, from 1 shilling to 5 shillings, depending on the season.
Sufficient for an entrée.
Enough for an entrée.
Seasonable.—In full season from May to August.
Seasonable.—In full season from May to August.
Note.—A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with the sweetbreads, will be found an improvement.
Note.—Adding a few mushrooms to this dish and cooking them with the sweetbreads will enhance the flavor.
SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL.—Veal, like all other meats, has its season of plenty. The best veal, and the largest supply, are to be had from March to the end of July. It comes principally from the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed. In purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be considered, the colour being especially of the utmost consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year and of excellent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the months of plenty.
SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL.—Veal, like all meats, has a season when it's more abundant. The best veal and the largest supply are available from March to the end of July. It mainly comes from the western counties and is usually of the Alderney breed. When buying veal, pay attention to its whiteness and fine grain; the color is especially important. While veal can be purchased year-round and of good quality, it tends to be quite expensive except during the peak months.
STEWED TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).
STEAMED VEAL TENDONS (an Entree).
909. INGREDIENTS.—The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel.
909. INGREDIENTS.—The scraps from 2 veal breasts, stock No. 107, 1 bundle of savory herbs, 2 blades of ground mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a piece of lemon peel.
Mode.—The tendrons or gristles, which are found round the front of a breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entrée, and when well dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the gristles from the bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the joint for roasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient stock, No. 107, to cover them; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours. They should be stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take them up, drain them, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze the meat. Dish the tendrons in a circle, with croûtons fried of a nice colour placed between each; and put mushroom sauce, or a purée of green peas or tomatoes, in the middle.
Mode.—The tendrons or gristles, found around the front of a veal breast, are commonly served as an appetizer nowadays and, when well prepared, make a delightful and popular dish. Carefully remove the gristles from the bone and cut them out neatly so you don’t ruin the joint for roasting or stewing. Place them in a saucepan, adding enough stock, No. 107, to cover them; include the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon, and simmer for nearly or up to 4 hours. They should be cooked until a fork easily pierces the meat. Remove them, drain them, strain the gravy, and reduce it to a glaze, which you'll use to coat the meat. Arrange the tendrons in a circle, placing nicely colored fried croûtons between each, and pour mushroom sauce, or a purée of green peas or tomatoes, in the center.
Time.—4 hours. Sufficient for one entrée.
Duration.—4 hours. Enough for one entrée.
Seasonable.—With peas, from June to August.
In Season.—With peas, from June to August.
COW-POX, OR VARIOLA.—It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley, Gloucestershire, who died in 1823, that we owe the practice of vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of that destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The experiments of this philosophic man were begun in 1797, and published the next year. He had observed that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle, escaped the small-pox raging around them. This fact, known to farmers from time immemorial, led him to a course of experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with.
COW-POX, OR VARIOLA.—We owe the practice of vaccination to Dr. Jenner from Berkeley, Gloucestershire, who passed away in 1823. His work provided a way to protect against the devastating disease of smallpox. He started his experiments in 1797, which he published the following year. He noticed that cows could get a certain contagious infection on their teats and that people who caught this infection while milking the cows were able to avoid the smallpox outbreaks around them. This knowledge, known to farmers for ages, prompted him to conduct experiments, the results of which everyone knows.
TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).
Veal Tenderloins (an Entree).
910. INGREDIENTS.—The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
910. INGREDIENTS.—The scraps from 2 veal breasts, stock No. 107, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 1 blade of ground mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of lemon peel, egg and breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoons of chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons of sherry, the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoons of cream.
Mode.—After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew them for 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, lift them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Put them between two dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut them into slices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry a pale brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were boiled in, add 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of salt and pepper, the sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens; when it is on the point of boiling, dish the tendrons in a circle, and pour the sauce in the middle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways,—with sauce à l'Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds: when they are served with a purée, they should always be glazed.
Mode.—After removing the gristle from a breast of veal, stew it for 4 hours, as in the previous recipe, with stock, herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon peel. Once it's completely tender, take it out and remove any bones or tough bits left behind. Place it between two dishes with a weight on top, and when it cools down, cut it into slices. Brush these slices with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and fry them until they are light brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were cooked in, add 2 tablespoons of chopped mushrooms, a pinch of salt and pepper, the sherry, and the yolk of an egg mixed with 3 tablespoons of cream. Heat the sauce over a flame until it thickens; when it’s about to boil, arrange the slices in a circle on a plate and pour the sauce in the center. Tendrons can be prepared in various ways—with sauce à l'Espagnole and all kinds of vegetables: when served with a purée, they should always be glazed.
Time.—4-1/2 hours. Average cost.—Usually bought with breast of veal.
Time.—4.5 hours. Average cost.—Typically purchased with a breast of veal.
Sufficient for an entrée.
Enough for an entrée.
Seasonable from March to October.
In season from March to October.
TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Entree).
TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Appetizer).
911. INGREDIENTS.—Half a calf's head, or the remains of a cold boiled one; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons (when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles or forcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croûtons.
911. INGREDIENTS.—Half a calf's head, or the leftovers of a cold boiled one; just over 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom caps (when available), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles or meatballs, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croutons.
Mode.—Half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entrée, and if there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it will answer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until tender, remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces; put the stock into a stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne; fry the mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the gravy. Boil this quickly until somewhat reduced; then put in the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs whole, the whites cut in small pieces, and the gherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, made by recipe No. 422 or 423; add these, with the slices of head, to the other ingredients, and let the whole get thoroughly hot, without boiling. Arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish as possible; pour over them the ragout, and garnish with the crayfish and croûtons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be served in a tureen.
Mode.—A half calf's head is enough to make a good entrée, and if you have any leftovers from a cold one from the previous day, those will work well for this dish. After boiling the head until it's tender, remove the bones and cut the meat into neat pieces. Put the stock into a pot, add the wine, and season with salt and cayenne. Sauté the mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes and add them to the gravy. Boil this quickly until it's somewhat reduced; then add the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs whole, the whites cut into small pieces, and the chopped gherkins. Have some veal quenelles ready, made according to recipe No. 422 or 423; add these, along with the slices of head, to the other ingredients, and heat everything thoroughly without boiling. Arrange the pieces of head as high as possible in the center of the dish; pour the ragout over them, and garnish with the crayfish and croûtons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be served in a tureen.
Time.—About 1/2 hour to reduce the stock.
Time.—About 30 minutes to reduce the stock.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Average cost, exclusive of the calf's head, 2s. 9d.
Average cost, not including the calf's head, £0.13.
Seasonable from March to October.
Seasonal from March to October.
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL.—A great authority in his native Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing, is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who has not eaten calf's head au naturel, simply boiled with the skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet à la poulette, au gratin, fried, &c.; les cervelles, served in the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads en fricandeau, piqués en fin,—all these offer most satisfactory entrées, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites. We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver, or of the fraise, or of the ears, which also share the honour of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with calf's liver à la bourgeoise, the most frequent and convenient dish at unpretentious tables? The fraise, cooked in water, and eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's ears have, in common with the feet and cervelles, the advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or à la poulette; and besides, can be made into a farce, with the addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the fressure (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the mou, and the rate), although not a very recherché dish, lends itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even awaken our appetite."—Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer.
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL.—A renowned expert from Paris tells us that veal isn't very nourishing, is hard to digest, and can be quite relaxing. He describes it, using all the colorful language of the French, as "the chameleon of the kitchen" because it can be transformed in so many ways. Who hasn’t enjoyed calf's head au naturel, simply boiled with the skin on, its flavor enhanced by a slightly tangy sauce? It’s a dish that is both tasty and healthy, and even the most inexperienced cook can succeed with it. Calf's feet à la poulette, au gratin, fried, etc.; les cervelles, prepared the same way; sweetbreads en fricandeau, piqués en fin—all of these make excellent starters, which a chef can vary to showcase their skill and satisfy our appetites. We haven't mentioned the liver, the fraise, or the ears, which also make appearances at our tables. Where is the person unfamiliar with calf's liver à la bourgeoise, the most common and practical dish on modest tables? The fraise, boiled in water and served with vinegar, is a healthy and tasty option that has a mucilage suitable for delicate individuals. Calf's ears, like the feet and cervelles, can be enjoyed either fried or à la poulette; they can also be made into a farce with peas, onions, cheese, etc. It's not just the calf's tongue or even the eyes that should compete for the honor of delighting our palate; even the fressure (which includes the heart, the mou, and the rate), though not a fancy dish, can be creatively transformed by a skilled chef and may, under various amazing presentations, deceive, delight, and even whet our appetite."—Indeed, we could say, after this enthusiastic rendition by our neighbor, that his country's reputation will not suffer with him as a talented and passionate supporter.
VEAL CARVING.
BREAST OF VEAL.
[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Breast.]
912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breast of veal consists of two parts,—the rib-bones and the gristly brisket. These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife in the direction of the lines 1, 2; when they are entirely divided, the rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines 5 to 6; and the brisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. The carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as it often is with roast breast of veal, each person should receive a piece.
912. Carving a breast of veal is similar to carving a fore-quarter of lamb after the shoulder has been removed. The breast of veal has two parts: the rib bones and the gristly brisket. First, separate these two parts by slicing sharply along lines 1 and 2. Once they are fully divided, carve the rib bones along lines 5 to 6, and serve the brisket by cutting pieces along lines 3 to 4. The carver should ask the guests if they prefer the brisket or the ribs, and if sweetbread is served with the dish, as it often is with roast breast of veal, each person should get a piece.
CALF'S HEAD.
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is put before a carver for the first time; there is not much real difficulty in the operation, however, when the head has been attentively examined, and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know its bumps, good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite down to the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with each of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat sweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone being removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate, which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should be asked to take some of these.
913. This dish might seem tricky to cut when it’s first presented to the carver, but it’s not really that difficult once you’ve carefully examined the head and figured out its contours, both the good and the bad. First, insert the knife all the way to the bone and cut slices along the line from 1 to 2. Each slice should be accompanied by a piece of what's called the throat sweetbread, cut from the direction of 3 to 4. The eye and the surrounding flesh are popular delicacies for many, so those at the table who are known to be the biggest food enthusiasts should get those pieces. After removing the jawbone, you’ll find some nice lean meat, and the palate, which some consider a treat, is located under the head. The tongue and brains are always served on a separate dish, and each guest should be encouraged to take some of these.
FILLET OF VEAL.
[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Fillet.]
914. The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef. Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line 1 to 2 are cut; and the only point to be careful about is, that the veal be evenly carved. Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a small portion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom the host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the delicious brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished.
914. The way to carve this cut is similar to carving a roast beef. Cut slices that aren't too thick, following the line from 1 to 2; the main thing to keep in mind is that the veal should be carved evenly. The stuffing is placed between the flap and the meat, and a small portion of this should be served to each guest. The people the host wants to honor the most should be asked if they enjoy the tasty brown outer slice, as many people really love it.
KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: VEAL KNUCKLE.]
915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, sufficiently indicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carving this dish. The best slices are those from the thickest part of the knuckle, that is, outside the line 1 to 2.
915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, clearly indicates the direction the knife should follow when carving this dish. The best slices come from the thickest part of the knuckle, which is outside the line from 1 to 2.
LOIN OF VEAL.
[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]
[Illustration: Veal Loin.]
916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcher be negligent in this matter, he should be admonished; for there is nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When the jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying the knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest should be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, and are considered great delicacies.
916. Just like with a loin of mutton, properly cutting a loin of veal is more than half the challenge in carving it. If the butcher isn’t careful about this, he should be warned; there’s nothing more frustrating for a novice carver than having to twist the knife around to find the right spot to cut through the bones. When the cutting is done right, it’s easy to slice down following the line 1 to 2. Each guest should receive a piece of the kidney and kidney fat beneath, which are considered real delicacies.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XX.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS.
"Birds, the free tenants of land, air, and ocean,
Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace;
In plumage delicate and beautiful;
Thick without burthen, close as fishes' scales,
Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze."
"Birds, the free inhabitants of land, sky, and sea,
Their shapes perfectly balanced, their movements elegant;
In feathers fine and stunning;
Thick yet light, close like fish scales,
Or loose like fully bloomed poppies swaying in the wind."
The Pelican Island.
Pelican Island.
917. THE DIVISIONS OF BIRDS are founded principally on their habits of life, and the natural resemblance which their external parts, especially their bills, bear to each other. According to Mr. Vigors, there are five orders, each of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of the globe; so that the air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water, has each its appropriate kind of inhabitants. These are respectively designated as BIRDS OF PREY, PERCHERS, WALKERS, WADERS, and SWIMMERS; and, in contemplating their variety, lightness, beauty, and wonderful adaptation to the regions they severally inhabit, and the functions they are destined to perform in the grand scheme of creation, our hearts are lifted with admiration at the exhaustless ingenuity, power, and wisdom of HIM who has, in producing them, so strikingly "manifested His handiwork." Not only these, however, but all classes of animals, have their peculiar ends to fulfil; and, in order that this may be effectually performed, they are constructed in such a manner as will enable them to carry out their conditions. Thus the quadrupeds, that are formed to tread the earth in common with man, are muscular and vigorous; and, whether they have passed into the servitude of man, or are permitted to range the forest or the field, they still retain, in a high degree, the energies with which they were originally endowed. Birds, on the contrary, are generally feeble, and, therefore, timid. Accordingly, wings have been given them to enable them to fly through the air, and thus elude the force which, by nature, they are unable to resist. Notwithstanding the natural tendency of all bodies towards the centre of the earth, birds, when raised in the atmosphere, glide through it with the greatest ease, rapidity, and vigour. There, they are in their natural element, and can vary their course with the greatest promptitude—can mount or descend with the utmost facility, and can light on any spot with the most perfect exactness, and without the slightest injury to themselves.
917. THE DIVISIONS OF BIRDS are mainly based on their lifestyles and the natural similarities in their physical features, especially their beaks. According to Mr. Vigors, there are five categories, each occupying a distinct area of the planet; the air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water each have their specific types of inhabitants. These are referred to as BIRDS OF PREY, PERCHERS, WALKERS, WADERS, and SWIMMERS; and as we consider their diversity, grace, beauty, and incredible adaptation to the environments they live in and the roles they play in the overall design of nature, we can’t help but feel admiration for the endless creativity, strength, and wisdom of the one who has, in creating them, powerfully "manifested His handiwork." Furthermore, all animal classes have their unique purposes to fulfill; and to effectively perform these purposes, they are designed in a way that allows them to execute their roles. For instance, quadrupeds, which roam the earth alongside humans, are strong and robust; whether they have entered humanity’s service or roam free in the woods or fields, they still possess much of the strength with which they were originally created. In contrast, birds are generally more fragile and, therefore, more timid. As a result, they have been given wings to help them fly through the air and escape from threats they are naturally unable to confront. Despite the natural pull of all objects towards the Earth's center, birds, once airborne, soar through the atmosphere with great ease, speed, and energy. There, they are in their element, able to change direction quickly—can rise or fall easily, and can land precisely on any surface without any harm to themselves.
918. THE MECHANISM WHICH ENABLES BIRDS to wing their course through the air, is both singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered with feathers, which are much lighter than coverings of hair, with which quadrupeds are usually clothed. The feathers are so placed as to overlap each other, like the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house. They are also arranged from the fore-part backwards; by which the animals are enabled the more conveniently to cut their way through the air. Their bones are tubular or hollow, and extremely light compared with those of terrestrial animals. This greatly facilitates their rising from the earth, whilst their heads, being comparatively small, their bills shaped like a wedge, their bodies slender, sharp below, and round above,—all these present a union of conditions, favourable, in the last degree, to cutting their way through the aërial element to which they are considered as more peculiarly to belong. With all these conditions, however, birds could not fly without wings. These, therefore, are the instruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion, and are constructed in such a manner as to be capable of great expansion when struck in a downward direction. If we except, in this action, the slight hollow which takes place on the under-side, they become almost two planes. In order that the downward action may be accomplished to the necessary extent, the muscles which move the wings have been made exceedingly large; so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they have been estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body. Therefore, when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes a leap, and immediately stretching its wings, strikes them out with great force. By this act these are brought into an oblique direction, being turned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of the force which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the bird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The stroke being completed, it moves upon its wings, which, being contracted and having their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, the resistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated, it makes a second stroke downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves it forward. These successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken in the air. When the bird desires to direct its course to the right or the left, it strikes strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it to the proper side. In the motions of the animal, too, the tail takes a prominent part, and acts like the rudder of a ship, except that, instead of sideways, it moves upwards and downwards. If the bird wishes to rise, it raises its tail; and if to fall, it depresses it; and, whilst in a horizontal position, it keeps it steady. There are few who have not observed a pigeon or a crow preserve, for some time, a horizontal flight without any apparent motion of the wings. This is accomplished by the bird having already acquired sufficient velocity, and its wings being parallel to the horizon, meeting with but small resistance from the atmosphere. If it begins to fall, it can easily steer itself upward by means of its tail, till the motion it had acquired is nearly spent, when it must be renewed by a few more strokes of the wings. On alighting, a bird expands its wings and tail fully against the air, as a ship, in tacking round, backs her sails, in order that they may meet with all the resistance possible.
918. THE MECHANISM THAT ALLOWS BIRDS to fly through the air is both unique and fascinating. Their bodies are covered with feathers, which are much lighter than the hair that covers mammals. The feathers overlap each other, similar to the slates or tiles on a roof. They are arranged from the front to the back, enabling birds to slice through the air more effectively. Their bones are tubular or hollow, making them extremely light compared to those of land animals. This significantly helps them lift off the ground, while their relatively small heads, wedge-shaped bills, slender bodies that are sharp on the bottom and round on top—all of these traits combine to create the ideal conditions for flying in the sky, which is where they are thought to truly belong. However, despite all these features, birds would be unable to fly without wings. These wings are the tools that give them the ability to move swiftly, and they are built to expand greatly when flapped downward. Aside from a slight dip on the underside during this action, the wings almost form two flat surfaces. To achieve the necessary downward force, the muscles that move the wings are very large—so large that in some cases they make up almost a sixth of the bird’s total weight. So when a bird is on the ground and wants to take off, it jumps and quickly stretches its wings, flapping them powerfully. This movement positions the wings at an angle, directing them partly upward and partly forward. The upward force is counteracted by the bird's weight, while the forward force propels it ahead. Once the flap is completed, it glides on its wings, which, when contracted and angled upwards, mostly reduce air resistance. When it has gained enough height, it makes another downward flap, causing another push forward from the air. These repeated flaps can be seen as jumps taken in the sky. When the bird wants to change direction, it flaps harder with the opposite wing, which pushes it to the right or left. Additionally, the tail plays a significant role in its movements, acting like a ship's rudder, except it moves up and down instead of side to side. If the bird wants to ascend, it raises its tail; if it wants to descend, it lowers it; and when flying horizontally, it keeps the tail steady. Many people have seen a pigeon or crow maintain a horizontal flight for a while without any visible wing movement. This is because the bird has already gained enough speed, and its wings are parallel to the horizon, encountering very little resistance from the air. If it starts to fall, it can easily adjust its flight upwards with its tail until its momentum runs out, at which point it needs to flap its wings again to regain speed. When landing, a bird spreads its wings and tail against the air, much like a ship that backs its sails while turning, to maximize resistance.
919. IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE EYES of birds, there is a peculiarity necessary to their condition. As they pass a great portion of their lives among thickets and hedges, they are provided for the defence of their eyes from external injuries, as well as from the effects of the light, when flying in opposition to the rays of the sun, with a nictating or winking membrane, which can, at pleasure, be drawn over the whole eye like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor wholly pellucid, but is somewhat transparent; and it is by its means that the eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. "In birds," says a writer on this subject, "we find that the sight is much more piercing, extensive, and exact, than in the other orders of animals. The eye is much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head, than in any of these. This is a superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding utility: it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence. Were this organ in birds dull, or in the least degree opaque, they would be in danger, from the rapidity of their motion, of striking against various objects in their flight. In this case their celerity, instead of being an advantage, would become an evil, and their flight be restrained by the danger resulting from it. Indeed we may consider the velocity with which an animal moves, as a sure indication of the perfection of its vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight greatly limited; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a lark sitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man or a dog could perceive it."
919. BIRD EYES have a unique feature that suits their environment. Since they spend a lot of their time in bushes and hedges, they have a special winking membrane that protects their eyes from injuries and bright sunlight when they're flying against the sun's rays. This membrane can be pulled over the whole eye like a curtain. It isn’t completely opaque or entirely clear; it’s somewhat transparent. This is why eagles can look directly at the sun. A writer on this topic noted that birds have much sharper, broader, and more precise vision compared to other animals. Their eyes are noticeably larger in relation to their head size than in any other group. This advantage provides essential benefits for their safety and survival. If a bird's eyes were dull or even slightly opaque, they would risk hitting objects while flying quickly. In that case, their speed would become a disadvantage, making their flight dangerous. In fact, we can view the speed at which an animal moves as a good indicator of the quality of its vision. Among mammals, the sloth has very limited sight, while the hawk, gliding in the air, can spot a lark sitting on the ground from perhaps twenty times the distance that a person or a dog could see it.
920. AMONGST THE MANY PECULIARITIES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BIRDS, not the least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished. This is effected by means of air-vessels, which extend throughout the body, and adhere to the under-surface of the bones. These, by their motion, force the air through the true lungs, which are very small, and placed in the uppermost part of the chest, and closely braced down to the back and ribs. The lungs, which are never expanded by air, are destined to the sole purpose of oxidizing the blood. In the experiments made by Mr. John Hunter, to discover the use of this general diffusion of air through the bodies of birds, he found that it prevents their respiration from being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity of their motion through a resisting medium. It is well known that, in proportion to celerity of motion, the air becomes resistive; and were it possible for a man to move with the swiftness of a swallow, as he is not provided with an internal construction similar to that of birds, the resistance of the air would soon suffocate him.
920. ONE OF THE MANY UNIQUE FEATURES OF BIRDS IS HOW THEY BREATHE. They do this through air sacs that spread throughout their bodies and cling to the underside of their bones. The movement of these sacs pushes air through their small lungs, which are located at the top of their chest and tightly connected to their back and ribs. The lungs, which never expand with air, are solely for oxygenating the blood. In experiments conducted by Mr. John Hunter, aimed at understanding the role of this widespread air circulation in birds, he discovered that it prevents their breathing from being halted or interrupted by their rapid movement through a dense medium. It’s well-known that as speed increases, air becomes more resistant; if a person could move as fast as a swallow, the resistance of the air would quickly suffocate them since they don't have a similar internal structure like birds do.
921. BIRDS ARE DISTRIBUTED OVER EVERY PART OF THE GLOBE, being found in the coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed. At certain seasons of the year, many of them change their abodes, and migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of life, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds of Britain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure from the island before the commencement of winter, and proceed to the more congenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring. The causes assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity are, either a deficiency of food, or the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishment of their young. Their migrations are generally performed in large companies, and, in the day, they follow a leader, which is occasionally changed. During the night, many of the tribes send forth a continual cry, to keep themselves together; although one would think that the noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that purpose. The flight of birds across the Mediterranean was noticed three thousand years ago, as we find it said in the book of Numbers, in the Scriptures, that "There went forth a wind from the Lord, and brought quails from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day's journey round about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth."
921. BIRDS ARE FOUND ALL OVER THE WORLD, from the coldest to the hottest areas, although some species are limited to specific countries, while others are widespread. At certain times of the year, many birds relocate and migrate to climates that suit their needs or lifestyles better than the places they leave behind. Many birds in Britain, guided by a natural instinct, leave the island before winter starts and head to the warmer climate of Africa, returning in the spring. Naturalists suggest that this behavior is due to either a lack of food or the absence of a safe place to raise and feed their young. They usually migrate in large groups, following a leader during the day, which can change occasionally. At night, many groups call out continuously to stay together, even though one would think that the noise from their flight would be enough for that. The migration of birds across the Mediterranean was noted three thousand years ago, as mentioned in the book of Numbers in the Bible: "There went forth a wind from the Lord, and brought quails from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day's journey round about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth."
922. IF THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS were not a recommendation to their being universally admired, their general liveliness, gaiety, and song would endear them to mankind. It appears, however, from accurate observations founded upon experiment, that the notes peculiar to different kinds of birds are altogether acquired, and that they are not innate, any more than language is to man. The attempt of a nestling bird to sing has been compared to the endeavour of a child to talk. The first attempts do not seem to possess the slightest rudiments of the future song; but, as the bird grows older and becomes stronger, it is easily perceived to be aiming at acquiring the art of giving utterance to song. Whilst the scholar is thus endeavouring to form his notes, when he is once sure of a passage, he usually raises his tone, but drops it again when he finds himself unequal to the voluntary task he has undertaken. "Many well-authenticated facts," says an ingenious writer, "seem decisively to prove that birds have no innate notes, but that, like mankind, the language of those to whose care they have been committed at their birth, will be their language in after-life." It would appear, however, somewhat unaccountable why, in a wild state, they adhere so steadily to the song of their own species only, when the notes of so many others are to be heard around them. This is said to arise from the attention paid by the nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only, generally disregarding the notes of all the rest. Persons; however, who have an accurate ear, and who have given their attention to the songs of birds, can frequently distinguish some which have their notes mixed with those of another species; but this is in general so trifling, that it can hardly be considered as more than the mere varieties of provincial dialects.
922. IF THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS weren't enough to make everyone admire them, their lively nature, cheerfulness, and songs certainly endear them to people. However, it turns out, based on careful observations and experiments, that the songs specific to different bird species are entirely learned, just like how humans learn language. The effort of a young bird attempting to sing has been compared to a child's attempt to talk. The initial attempts don’t seem to have any of the elements of the future song; but as the bird matures and grows stronger, it becomes clear that it's trying to master the art of singing. While the young learner is trying to refine its notes, once it masters a certain part, it tends to raise its pitch, but then lowers it again when it realizes it's not quite up to the task it's set for itself. "Many well-documented facts," says a clever writer, "seem to clearly show that birds don’t have innate songs, but rather, like humans, the language of those who care for them at birth will be the language they use later on." It does seem puzzling, however, why in the wild, they stick so closely to the songs of their own species when there are so many other sounds around them. This is thought to happen because young birds focus solely on their own parent's teachings, generally ignoring the calls of others. However, people with a good ear who pay attention to bird songs can often distinguish some that mix their songs with those of another species; but usually, these variations are so minor that they barely amount to anything more than local dialect differences.
923. IN REFERENCE TO THE FOOD OF BIRDS, we find that it varies, as it does in quadrupeds, according to the species. Some are altogether carnivorous; others, as so many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on fish; others, again, on insects and worms; and others on grain and fruit. The extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivorous tribes, in comminuting their food so as to prepare it for digestion, would, were they not supported by incontrovertible facts founded on experiment, appear to exceed all credibility. Tin tubes, full of grain, have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys, and in twenty-four hours have been found broken, compressed, and distorted into every shape. Twelve small lancets, very sharp both at the point and edges, have been fixed in a ball of lead, covered with a case of paper, and given to a turkey-cock, and left in its stomach for eight hours. After that time the stomach was opened, when nothing appeared except the naked ball. The twelve lancets were broken to pieces, whilst the stomach remained perfectly sound and entire. From these facts, it is concluded that the stones, so frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes, are highly useful in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grain and other hard substances which constitute their food. The stones, themselves, being also ground down and separated by the powerful action of the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and, no doubt, contribute very greatly to the health, as well as to the nourishment of the animals.
923. REGARDING BIRD FOOD, we see that it varies, just like in mammals, depending on the species. Some are strictly carnivorous; others, like many waterfowl, eat fish; some feed on insects and worms; and others on grains and fruits. The impressive abilities of the gizzard in seed-eating birds to break down their food for digestion would seem unbelievable if not supported by solid experimental evidence. Tin tubes filled with grain have been inserted into the stomachs of turkeys and, after twenty-four hours, found to be broken, compressed, and reshaped. Twelve sharp lancets, both pointed and edged, were fixed in a lead ball, covered with paper, and given to a male turkey, left in its stomach for eight hours. When the stomach was opened afterward, only the bare lead ball remained. The twelve lancets had shattered while the stomach was perfectly intact. From these observations, it is concluded that the stones often found in the stomachs of birds are very useful in helping the digestive juices grind down the grains and other tough materials that make up their diet. The stones, which are also ground down and separated by the strong action of the gizzard, mix with the food and undoubtedly contribute significantly to the health and nourishment of the animals.
924. ALL BIRDS BEING OVIPAROUS, the eggs which they produce after the process of incubation, or sitting for a certain length of time, are, in the various species, different both in figure and colour, as well as in point of number. They contain the elements of the future young, for the perfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed at the large end, between the shell and the inside skin. It is supposed that from the heat communicated by the sitting bird to this confined air, its spring is increased beyond its natural tenor, and, at the same time, its parts are put into motion by the gentle rarefaction. By this means, pressure and motion are communicated to the parts of the egg, which, in some inscrutable way, gradually promote the formation and growth of the young, till the time comes for its escaping from the shell. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation, for 5 or 6 months after it has been laid, Réaumur, the French naturalist, has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its pores with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet.
924. ALL BIRDS LAY EGGS, and the eggs they produce after incubating, or sitting for a certain amount of time, vary in shape, color, and number across different species. These eggs contain the elements needed for the developing young. During incubation, a bubble of air is always situated at the larger end, between the shell and the inner membrane. It’s believed that the heat from the sitting bird warms this trapped air, increasing its pressure beyond normal levels while gently stirring its contents. This process creates pressure and movement within the egg, which somehow gradually aids in the formation and growth of the young until it’s time for it to break free from the shell. To keep an egg perfectly fresh and even suitable for incubation for 5 or 6 months after being laid, French naturalist Réaumur demonstrated that simply sealing its pores with a light coating of varnish or mutton fat is sufficient.
925. BIRDS HOWEVER, DO NOT LAY EGGS before they have some place to put them; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishing art. As builders, they exhibit a degree of architectural skill, niceness, and propriety, that would seem even to mock the imitative talents of man, however greatly these are marked by his own high intelligence and ingenuity.
925. BIRDS, HOWEVER, DO NOT LAY EGGS before they have a place to put them; so, they build nests for themselves with amazing skill. As builders, they show a level of architectural talent, precision, and suitability that seems to even mock the imitative abilities of humans, no matter how much those are marked by our own intelligence and creativity.
"Each circumstance
Most artfully contrived to favour warmth.
Here read the reason of the vaulted roof;
How Providence compensates, ever kind,
The enormous disproportion that subsists
Between the mother and the numerous brood
Which her small bulk must quicken into life."
"Every situation
Is cleverly designed to promote warmth.
Here’s the reason for the arched ceiling;
How kind Providence always makes up for
The huge differences that exist
Between the mother and the many offspring
That her small body must bring to life."
In building their nests, the male and female generally assist each other, and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as great a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches; so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in search of it. This art of nidification is one of the most wonderful contrivances which the wide field of Nature can show, and which, of itself, ought to be sufficient to compel mankind to the belief, that they and every other part of the creation, are constantly under the protecting power of a superintending Being, whose benign dispensations seem as exhaustless as they are unlimited.
In building their nests, the male and female typically help each other, and they try to make the outside of their home look as much like the surrounding leaves and branches as possible, so it’s hard to find even for those actively searching for it. This ability to construct nests is one of the most amazing things that nature can show us, and it should be enough to make people believe that they and everything else in creation are always under the watchful care of a higher power, whose generous provisions seem endless and limitless.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXI.
CHICKEN CUTLETS (an Entree).
Chicken Cutlets (an Entree).
926. INGREDIENTS.—2 chickens; seasoning to taste of salt, white pepper, and cayenne; 2 blades of pounded mace, egg and bread crumbs, clarified butter, 1 strip of lemon-rind, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, thickening of butter and flour, 1 egg.
926. INGREDIENTS.—2 chickens; seasoning to taste of salt, white pepper, and cayenne; 2 blades of ground mace, egg and breadcrumbs, clarified butter, 1 piece of lemon peel, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup, thickening of butter and flour, 1 egg.
Mode.—Remove the breast and leg bones of the chickens; cut the meat into neat pieces after having skinned it, and season the cutlets with pepper, salt, pounded mace, and cayenne. Put the bones, trimmings, &c., into a stewpan with 1 pint of water, adding carrots, onions, and lemon-peel in the above proportion; stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, and strain the gravy. Thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and 1 egg well beaten; stir it over the fire, and bring it to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil. In the mean time, egg and bread-crumb the cutlets, and give them a few drops of clarified butter; fry them a delicate brown, occasionally turning them; arrange them pyramidically on the dish, and pour over them the sauce.
Mode.—Take off the breast and leg bones of the chickens; cut the meat into even pieces after skinning it, and season the cutlets with pepper, salt, ground mace, and cayenne. Place the bones and trimmings in a saucepan with 1 pint of water, adding carrots, onions, and lemon peel in the same amounts; simmer gently for 1.5 hours, and then strain the broth. Thicken it with butter and flour, add ketchup and 1 well-beaten egg; stir this over the heat, and bring it to a simmer, but do not let it boil. Meanwhile, dip the cutlets in egg and coat them with breadcrumbs, adding a few drops of clarified butter; fry them until they are a light brown, turning them occasionally; stack them on the dish in a pyramid shape, and pour the sauce over them.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the cutlets. Average cost, 2s. each.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the cutlets. Average cost, 2 shillings each.
Sufficient for an entrée.
Good enough for an entrée.
Seasonable from April to July.
In season from April to July.
FOWLS AS FOOD.—Brillat Savarin, pre-eminent in gastronomic taste, says that he believes the whole gallinaceous family was made to enrich our larders and furnish our tables; for, from the quail to the turkey, he avers their flesh is a light aliment, full of flavour, and fitted equally well for the invalid as for the man of robust health. The fine flavour, however, which Nature has given to all birds coming under the definition of poultry, man has not been satisfied with, and has used many means—such as keeping them in solitude and darkness, and forcing them to eat—to give them an unnatural state of fatness or fat. This fat, thus artificially produced, is doubtless delicious, and the taste and succulence of the boiled and roasted bird draw forth the praise of the guests around the table. Well-fattened and tender, a fowl is to the cook what the canvas is to the painter; for do we not see it served boiled, roasted, fried, fricasseed, hashed, hot, cold, whole, dismembered, boned, broiled, stuffed, on dishes, and in pies,—always handy and ever acceptable?
FOWLS AS FOOD.—Brillat Savarin, a leader in culinary taste, believes that the entire chicken family is meant to enrich our kitchens and fill our tables; from quail to turkey, he claims their meat is light, flavorful, and suitable for both the sick and healthy. However, the delightful flavor that Nature has given to all poultry is not enough for man, who has employed various methods—like keeping them isolated in darkness and forcing them to eat—to produce an unnatural fatness. This fat, created through these artificial means, is undoubtedly delicious, and the taste and tenderness of the boiled and roasted bird receive praise from guests around the table. A well-fed and tender chicken is to the cook what a canvas is to a painter; for don't we see it served boiled, roasted, fried, in a fricassee, hashed, hot, cold, whole, cut up, boned, broiled, stuffed, on plates, and in pies—always available and always welcome?
THE COMMON OR DOMESTIC FOWL.—From time immemorial, the common or domestic fowl has been domesticated in England, and is supposed to be originally the offspring of some wild species which abound in the forests of India. It is divided into a variety of breeds, but the most esteemed are, the Poland or Black, the Dorking, the Bantam, the Game Fowl, and the Malay or Chittagong. The common, or barn-door fowl, is one of the most delicate of the varieties; and at Dorking, in Surrey, the breed is brought to great perfection. Till they are four months old, the term chicken is applied to the young female; after that age they are called pullets, till they begin to lay, when they are called hens. The English counties most productive in poultry are Surrey, Sussex, Norfolk, Herts, Devon, and Somerset.
THE COMMON OR DOMESTIC FOWL.—For as long as anyone can remember, the common or domestic fowl has been raised in England and is believed to be originally descended from some wild species found in the forests of India. It is categorized into various breeds, but the most valued ones are the Poland or Black, the Dorking, the Bantam, the Game Fowl, and the Malay or Chittagong. The common, or barn-door fowl, is one of the more delicate varieties; and in Dorking, Surrey, this breed is cultivated to a high standard. Until they reach four months old, young females are called chickens; after that age, they are referred to as pullets until they start laying eggs, at which point they are known as hens. The English counties that are most productive in poultry include Surrey, Sussex, Norfolk, Herts, Devon, and Somerset.
FRENCH CHICKEN CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).
FRENCH CHICKEN CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).
927. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, fried bread, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste. For sauce,—1 oz. of butter, 2 minced shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1 blade of pounded mace, 6 peppercorns, 1/4 pint of gravy.
927. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast or boiled chicken, fried bread, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoon of finely minced lemon peel; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste. For the sauce—1 oz. of butter, 2 minced shallots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savory herbs, including parsley, 1 blade of ground mace, 6 peppercorns, 1/4 pint of gravy.
Mode.—Cut the fowls into as many nice cutlets as possible; take a corresponding number of sippets about the same size, all cut one shape; fry them a pale brown, put them before the fire, then dip the cutlets into clarified butter mixed with the yolk of an egg, cover with bread crumbs seasoned in the above proportion, with lemon-peel, mace, salt, and cayenne; fry them for about 5 minutes, put each piece on one of the sippets, pile them high in the dish, and serve with the following sauce, which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put the butter into a stewpan, add the shalots, carrot, herbs, mace, and peppercorns; fry for 10 minutes or rather longer; pour in 1/2 pint of good gravy, made of the chicken bones, stew gently for 20 minutes, strain it, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the chickens into as many nice cutlets as you can; take an equal number of sippets about the same size, all cut in the same shape; fry them to a light brown, place them by the fire, then dip the cutlets in clarified butter mixed with an egg yolk, and cover them with bread crumbs seasoned with lemon zest, mace, salt, and cayenne; fry them for about 5 minutes, put each piece on one of the sippets, stack them high on the plate, and serve with the following sauce, which should be ready for the cutlets. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the shallots, carrot, herbs, mace, and peppercorns; fry for 10 minutes or a bit longer; pour in 1/2 pint of good gravy made from the chicken bones, simmer gently for 20 minutes, strain it, and serve.
Time.—5 minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes to make the gravy.
Time.—5 minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes to prepare the gravy.
Average cost, exclusive of the chicken, 9d.
Average cost, excluding the chicken, 9d.
Seasonable from April to July.
Available from April to July.
EGGS FOR HATCHING.—Eggs intended for hatching should be removed as soon as laid, and placed in bran in a dry, cool place. Choose those that are near of a size; and, as a rule, avoid those that are equally thick at both ends,—such, probably, contain a double yolk, and will come to no good. Eggs intended for hatching should never be stored longer than a month, as much less the better. Nine eggs may be placed under a Bantam hen, and as many as fifteen under a Dorking. The odd number is considered preferable, as more easily packed. It will be as well to mark the eggs you give the hen to sit on, so that you may know if she lays any more: if she does, you must remove them; for, if hatched at all, they would be too late for the brood. If during incubation an egg should be broken, remove it, and take out the remainder, and cleanse them in luke-warm water, or it is probable the sticky nature of the contents of the broken egg will make the others cling to the hen's feathers; and they, too, may be fractured.
EGGS FOR HATCHING.—Eggs meant for hatching should be taken out as soon as they're laid and placed in bran in a dry, cool area. Choose eggs that are similar in size, and generally avoid those that are equally thick at both ends, as they probably contain a double yolk and won't be viable. Eggs for hatching should never be stored for more than a month; the shorter the storage, the better. You can place up to nine eggs under a Bantam hen and as many as fifteen under a Dorking. An odd number is preferred because it's easier to pack. It's also a good idea to mark the eggs you give to the hen so you can tell if she lays any more; if she does, you need to remove them because, if they hatch at all, they will be too late for the brood. If an egg breaks during incubation, take it out, clean the remaining eggs in lukewarm water, otherwise the sticky contents of the broken egg may cause the others to stick to the hen's feathers, and they could break as well.
HENS SITTING.—Some hens are very capricious as regards sitting; they will make a great fuss, and keep pining for the nest, and, when they are permitted to take to it, they will sit just long enough to addle the eggs, and then they're off again. The safest way to guard against such annoyance, is to supply the hen with some hard-boiled eggs; if she sits on them a reasonable time, and seems steadily inclined, like a good matron, you may then give her proper eggs, and let her set about the business in earnest.
HENS SITTING.—Some hens are very unpredictable when it comes to sitting; they’ll create a big scene and keep longing for the nest, and when they finally get the chance, they’ll sit just long enough to spoil the eggs, and then they’re off again. The best way to avoid this frustration is to give the hen some hard-boiled eggs; if she sits on them for a reasonable amount of time and seems genuinely committed, like a good mother, then you can give her real eggs and let her get down to business.
CHICKEN OR FOWL PATTIES.
928. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast chicken or fowl; to every 1/4 lb. of meat allow 2 oz. of ham, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 oz. of butter rolled in flour; puff paste.
928. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chicken or any fowl; for every 1/4 lb. of meat, use 2 oz. of ham, 3 tablespoons of cream, 2 tablespoons of veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 oz. of butter coated in flour; puff pastry.
Mode.—Mince very small the white meat from a cold roast fowl, after removing all the skin; weigh it, and to every 1/4 lb. of meat allow the above proportion of minced ham. Put these into a stewpan with the remaining ingredients, stir over the fire for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, taking care that the mixture does not burn. Roll out some puff paste about 1/4 inch in thickness; line the patty-pans with this, put upon each a small piece of bread, and cover with another layer of paste; brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a brisk oven for about 1/4 hour. When done, cut a round piece out of the top, and, with a small spoon, take out the bread (be particular in not breaking the outside border of the crust), and fill the patties with the mixture.
Method.—Finely chop the white meat from a cold roasted chicken, after removing all the skin; weigh it, and for every 1/4 lb. of meat, add the corresponding amount of minced ham mentioned above. Place these in a saucepan with the remaining ingredients, and stir over the heat for 10 minutes or 15 minutes, making sure the mixture doesn't burn. Roll out some puff pastry to about 1/4 inch thick; line the tartlet pans with it, place a small piece of bread on each, and cover with another layer of pastry; brush the tops with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a hot oven for about 15 minutes. Once baked, cut a small round piece out of the top, and using a small spoon, carefully remove the bread (be careful not to break the outer edge of the crust) and fill the tartlets with the mixture.
Time.—1/4 hour to prepare the meat; not quite 1/4 hour to bake the crust.
Time.—15 minutes to prepare the meat; just under 15 minutes to bake the crust.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
HATCHING.—Sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to break away from its prison; for the white of the egg will occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners' clue, when the poor chick is in a terrible fix. An able writer says, "Assistance in hatching must not be rendered prematurely, and thence unnecessarily, but only in the case of the chick being plainly unable to release itself; then, indeed, an addition may probably be made to the brood, as great numbers are always lost in this way. The chick makes a circular fracture at the big end of the egg, and a section of about one-third of the length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner, provided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to the membrane which lines the shell. Between the body of the chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous fluid, the white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of incubation, until it becomes a positive glue. When this happens, the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain confined, and must perish, if not released."
HATCHING.—Sometimes the chick inside the shell can't break free from its confinement; the egg white can harden in the air to the consistency of glue, putting the poor chick in a difficult situation. An insightful writer notes, "Help with hatching shouldn't be given too soon and unnecessarily, but only when it's clear the chick can't free itself; then, it's likely that another chick can be added to the group, as many are often lost this way. The chick creates a circular crack at the large end of the egg, and if it separates a section of about one-third of the shell’s length, it frees itself, provided there's no sticking between its body and the membrane lining the shell. Between the chick's body and the shell membrane, there's a sticky fluid, the egg white thickened by the intense heat of incubation, turning it into a kind of glue. When this occurs, the feathers become stuck to the shell, and the chicks remain trapped, leading to their demise if they aren't helped out."
The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a difficulty in releasing themselves from the shell, is to take the egg in the hand, and dipping the finger or a piece of linen rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they are loosened by the gluey substance becoming dissolved and separated from the feathers. The chick, then, being returned to the nest, will extricate itself,—a mode generally to be observed, since, if violence were used, it would prove fatal. Nevertheless, breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary; and separating with the fingers, as gently as may be, the membrane from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as mentioned above, to facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors may be useful, and when there is much resistance, as also apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in the gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small pieces. The signs of a need of assistance are the egg being partly pecked and chipped, and the cluck discontinuing its efforts for five of six hours. Weakness from cold may disable the chicken from commencing the operation of pecking the shell, which must then be artificially performed with a circular fracture, such as is made by the bird itself.
The way to help chicks that struggle to break free from their shells is to hold the egg in your hand and dip your finger or a piece of cloth in warm water, applying it to the stuck areas until the sticky substance dissolves and separates from the feathers. Once that’s done, return the chick to the nest where it can free itself—this is generally recommended, as using force can be fatal. However, sometimes it may be necessary to break the shell; gently separate the membrane from the feathers using your fingers, which should still be moistened as mentioned earlier to make this easier. Small scissors can be handy, and if there’s a lot of resistance or the chick appears to be in pain, proceed very carefully, separating the shell into small pieces. Signs that the chick needs help include the shell being partially pecked and chipped, and the chick stopping its efforts for five or six hours. If the chick is weak from cold, it may not be able to start pecking the shell, in which case you should assist by creating a circular break, similar to what the chick would do itself.
CHICKEN OR FOWL PIE.
929. INGREDIENTS.—2 small fowls or 1 large one, white pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded mace, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of water, puff crust.
929. INGREDIENTS.—2 small chickens or 1 large one, white pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon of ground mace, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of water, puff pastry.
Mode.—Skin and cut up the fowls into joints, and put the neck, leg, and backbones in a stewpan, with a little water, an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a blade of mace; let these stew for about an hour, and, when done, strain off the liquor: this is for gravy. Put a layer of fowl at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of ham, then one of forcemeat and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings; between the layers put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Proceed in this manner until the dish is full, and pour in about 1/2 pint of water; border the edge of the dish with puff crust, put on the cover, ornament the top, and glaze it by brushing over it the yolk of an egg. Bake from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour, should the pie be very large, and, when done, pour in, at the top, the gravy made from the bones. If to be eaten cold, and wished particularly nice, the joints of the fowls should be boned, and placed in the dish with alternate layers of forcemeat; sausage-meat may also be substituted for the forcemeat, and is now very much used. When the chickens are boned, and mixed with sausage-meat, the pie will take about 2 hours to bake. It should be covered with a piece of paper when about half-done, to prevent the paste from being dried up or scorched.
Mode.—Skin and chop the chickens into pieces, then place the neck, legs, and backbone in a saucepan with a bit of water, an onion, a bunch of savory herbs, and a blade of mace; let them simmer for about an hour. Once done, strain the liquid; this will be your gravy. Start with a layer of chicken at the bottom of a pie dish, followed by a layer of ham, then a layer of meat filling and sliced hard-boiled eggs. Between the layers, add a seasoning of ground mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Continue this process until the dish is filled, and pour in about 1/2 pint of water. Seal the edge of the dish with puff pastry, place the cover on, decorate the top, and glaze it by brushing with egg yolk. Bake for 1.25 to 1.5 hours if the pie is large, and when it's done, pour the gravy made from the bones over the top. If you want it served cold and particularly nice, the chicken pieces should be deboned and layered with meat filling; you can also use sausage meat in place of the filling, which is very popular now. When the chickens are deboned and mixed with sausage meat, the pie will need about 2 hours to bake. Cover it with a piece of paper when it's about halfway done to prevent the crust from drying out or burning.
Time.—For a pie with unboned meat, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; with boned meat and sausage or forcemeat, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—For a pie with unboned meat, 1 to 1.5 hours; with boned meat and sausage or filling, 1.5 to 2 hours.
Average cost, with 2 fowls, 6s. 6d.
Average cost, with 2 birds, 6 shillings 6 pence.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
"Seasonable" anytime.
THE YOUNG CHICKS.—The chicks that are hatched first should be taken from underneath the hen, lest she might think her task at an end, and leave the remaining eggs to spoil. As soon as the young birds are taken from the mother, they must be placed in a basket lined with soft wool, flannel, or hay, and stood in the sunlight if it be summer time, or by the fire if the weather be cold. It is a common practice to cram young chicks with food as soon as they are born. This is quite unnecessary. They will, so long as they are kept warm, come to no harm if they take no food for twenty-four hours following their birth. Should the whole of the brood not be hatched by that time, those that are born may be fed with bread soaked in milk, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg.
THE YOUNG CHICKS.—The first chicks that hatch should be taken from under the hen so she doesn’t think her job is done and leave the other eggs to spoil. As soon as the chicks are taken from their mother, they should be placed in a basket lined with soft wool, flannel, or hay and set in the sunlight if it’s summer, or by the fire if it’s cold. It’s common to feed young chicks as soon as they are born, but this isn’t necessary. As long as they are kept warm, they won’t be harmed if they don’t eat for twenty-four hours after hatching. If not all the eggs have hatched by then, the ones that have can be fed with bread soaked in milk and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg.
POTTED CHICKEN OR FOWL (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).
POTTED CHICKEN OR FOWL (a Lunch or Breakfast Dish).
930. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast chicken; to every lb. of meat allow 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 teaspoonful of pounded mace, 1/4 small nutmeg.
930. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chicken; for every pound of meat, use 1/4 pound of fresh butter, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of ground mace, and 1/4 of a small nutmeg.
Mode.—Strip the meat from the bones of cold roast fowl; when it is freed from gristle and skin, weigh it, and, to every lb. of meat, allow the above proportion of butter, seasoning, and spices. Cut the meat into small pieces, pound it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in the spices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Put it into potting-pots for use, and cover it with clarified butter, about 1/4 inch in thickness, and, if to be kept for some time, tie over a bladder: 2 or 3 slices of ham, minced and pounded with the above ingredients, will be found an improvement. It should be kept in a dry place.
Mode.—Remove the meat from the bones of cold roast chicken. Once it’s free from gristle and skin, weigh it, and for every pound of meat, use the mentioned amount of butter, seasoning, and spices. Cut the meat into small pieces, mash it well with the fresh butter, gradually add the spices, and keep mashing until you have a perfectly smooth paste. Pack it into jars for storage and cover it with clarified butter, about 1/4 inch thick. If you plan to store it for a while, cover it with a bladder. Minced and mashed slices of ham, added to the above ingredients, will enhance the flavor. Keep it in a dry place.
Seasonable at any time.
Trendy at any time.
FEEDING AND COOPING THE CHICKS.—When all the chicks are hatched, they should be placed along with the mother under a coop in a warm dry spot. If two hens happen to have their broods at the same time, their respective chicks should be carefully kept separate; as, if they get mixed, and so go under the wrong coop, the hens will probably maim and destroy those who have mistaken their dwelling. After being kept snug beneath the coop for a week (the coop should be placed under cover at nightfall), the chicks may be turned loose for an hour or so in the warmest part of the day. They should be gradually weaned from the soaked bread and chopped egg, instead of which grits or boiled barley should be given; in 8 or 10 days their stomachs will be strong enough to receive bruised barley, and at the end of 3 weeks, if your chicks be healthy, they will be able to take care of themselves. It will be well, however, to keep your eye on them a week or so longer, as the elder chickens may drive them from their food. Great care should be taken that the very young chicks do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass, as this is the most prominent and fatal cause of disease. While under the coop with their mother, a shallow pan or plate of water should be supplied to the chicks, as in a deeper vessel they are liable to drench themselves and take cold, or possibly to get drowned.
FEEDING AND COOPING THE CHICKS.—Once all the chicks have hatched, they should be placed with their mother under a coop in a warm, dry area. If two hens happen to have their chicks at the same time, it’s important to keep their chicks separate. If they mix up and go under the wrong coop, the hens might injure or even kill those that have wandered into the wrong space. After being kept cozy under the coop for a week (make sure to cover the coop at night), the chicks can be let out for about an hour during the warmest part of the day. Gradually, they should be weaned off soaked bread and chopped eggs and instead given grits or boiled barley. In 8 to 10 days, their stomachs will be strong enough to handle bruised barley, and by the end of 3 weeks, if your chicks are healthy, they should be able to fend for themselves. It's a good idea to watch them for about a week longer, since older chickens might push them away from their food. Great care should be taken to ensure that very young chicks don’t run around on wet ground or damp grass, as this is a major cause of illness. While they are under the coop with their mother, provide a shallow dish or plate of water for the chicks. In a deeper container, they could soak themselves, catch a chill, or even drown.
CHICKEN OR FOWL SALAD.
931. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast or boiled chicken, 2 lettuces, a little endive, 1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled beetroot, salad-dressing No. 506.
931. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast or boiled chicken, 2 lettuces, a bit of endive, 1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled beet, salad dressing No. 506.
Mode.—Trim neatly the remains of the chicken; wash, dry, and slice the lettuces, and place in the middle of a dish; put the pieces of fowl on the top, and pour the salad-dressing over them. Garnish the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, sliced cucumber, and boiled beetroot cut in slices. Instead of cutting the eggs in rings, the yolks may be rubbed through a hair sieve, and the whites chopped very finely, and arranged on the salad in small bunches, yellow and white alternately. This should not be made long before it is wanted for table.
Mode.—Neatly trim the leftover chicken; wash, dry, and slice the lettuce, then place it in the center of a dish. Arrange the pieces of chicken on top and drizzle the salad dressing over them. Decorate the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut into rings, sliced cucumber, and boiled beetroot sliced. Instead of cutting the eggs into rings, you can mash the yolks through a fine sieve and chop the whites very finely, arranging them on the salad in small clusters, alternating yellow and white. This should be prepared shortly before serving.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d.
Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 8d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
AGE AND FLAVOUR OF CHICKENS.—It has been the opinion of the medical faculty of all ages and all countries, that the flesh of the young chicken is the must delicate and easy to digest of all animal food. It is less alkalescent than the flesh of any other animal, and its entire freedom from any irritating quality renders it a fit dish for the ailing, or those whose stomachs are naturally weak. In no animal, however, does age work such a change, in regard to the quality of its flesh, as it does in domestic fowls. In their infancy, cocks and hens are equally tender and toothsome; but as time overtakes them it is the cock whose flesh toughens first. A year-old cock, indeed, is fit for little else than to be converted into soup, while a hen at the same age, although sufficiently substantial, is not callous to the insinuations of a carving-knife. As regards capons, however, the rule respecting age does not hold good. There is scarcely to be found a more delicious animal than a well-fed, well-dressed capon. Age does not dry up his juices; indeed, like wine, he seems but to mellow. At three years old, even, he is as tender as a chick, with the additional advantage of his proper chicken flavour being fully developed. The above remarks, however, concerning the capon, only apply to such as are naturally fed, and not crammed. The latter process may produce a handsome-looking bird, and it may weigh enough to satisfy the whim or avarice of its stuffer; but, when before the fire, it will reveal the cruel treatment to which it has been subjected, and will weep a drippingpan-ful of fat tears. You will never find heart enough to place such a grief-worn guest at the head of your table. It should be borne in mind as a rule, that small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to excel the contrary sort in delicacy of colour, flavour, and fineness of flesh.
AGE AND FLAVOUR OF CHICKENS.—The medical community throughout history and across the world has believed that the meat of young chickens is the most delicate and easiest to digest among all animal foods. It is less alkaline than the meat of other animals, and its complete lack of any irritating qualities makes it suitable for the sick or those with naturally weak stomachs. However, no other animal shows such a dramatic change in the quality of its meat as domestic fowls do with age. In their early stages, both roosters and hens are equally tender and tasty; but as they get older, it’s the rooster whose meat toughens first. A rooster that's a year old is fit for little more than soup, while a hen at the same age, although still substantial, isn’t too tough for a carving knife. On the other hand, the usual rule about age doesn’t apply to capons. There's hardly a tastier animal than a well-fed, properly prepared capon. Age doesn’t diminish his juices; in fact, like wine, he seems to improve with time. Even at three years old, he is as tender as a chick, with the added bonus of having developed his full chicken flavor. However, these comments about capons only apply to those that are naturally fed, not force-fed. The latter method might produce a visually appealing bird, and it may weigh enough to please its feeder, but when cooked, it will show the cruel treatment it endured, oozing a dripping pan full of greasy tears. You would never have the heart to serve such a sorrowful guest at the head of your table. It’s important to remember that small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to have superior color, flavor, and tenderness compared to their larger counterparts.
HASHED DUCK (Cold Meat Cookery).
HASHED DUCK (Cold Meat Recipe).
932. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast duck, rather more than 1 pint of weak stock or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening of butter and flour, salt and cayenne to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 glass of port wine.
932. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast duck, just over 1 pint of weak broth or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, a thickening made of butter and flour, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 1 dessert spoon of lemon juice, 1/2 glass of port wine.
Mode.—Cut the duck into nice joints, and put the trimmings into a stewpan; slice and fry the onion in a little butter; add these to the trimmings, pour in the above proportion of weak stock or water, and stew gently for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, thicken it with butter and flour, season with salt and cayenne, and add the remaining ingredients; boil it up and skim well; lay in the pieces of duck, and let them get thoroughly hot through by the side of the fire, but do not allow them to boil: they should soak in the gravy for about 1/2 hour. Garnish with sippets of toasted bread. The hash may be made richer by using a stronger and more highly-flavoured gravy; a little spice or pounded mace may also be added, when their flavour is liked.
Mode.—Cut the duck into nice pieces, and put the trimmings into a saucepan; slice and sauté the onion in a little butter; add these to the trimmings, pour in the same amount of weak stock or water, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain the liquid, thicken it with butter and flour, season with salt and cayenne, and add the remaining ingredients; bring it to a boil and skim well; add the pieces of duck, and let them heat thoroughly by the side of the fire, but do not let them boil: they should soak in the gravy for about 30 minutes. Garnish with toasted bread cubes. The hash can be made richer by using a stronger and more flavorful gravy; a little spice or ground mace can also be added if you like the flavor.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, 4d.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, not including the cold duck, 4d.
Seasonable from November to February; ducklings from May to August.
Available from November to February; ducklings from May to August.
THE DUCK.—This bird belongs to the order of Natatores, or Swimmers; the most familiar tribes of which are ducks, swans, geese, auks, penguins, petrels, pelicans, guillemots, gulls, and terns. They mostly live in the water, feeding on fish, worms, and aquatic plants. They are generally polygamous, and make their nests among reeds, or in moist places. The flesh of many of the species is eatable, but that of some is extremely rank and oily. The duck is a native of Britain, but is found on the margins of most of the European lakes. It is excessively greedy, and by no means a nice feeder. It requires a mixture of vegetable and animal food; but aquatic insects, corn, and vegetables, are its proper food. Its flesh, however, is savoury, being not so gross as that of the goose, and of easier digestion. In the green-pea season it is usually found on an English table; but, according to Ude, "November is its proper season, when it is plump and fat."
THE DUCK.—This bird belongs to the order of Natatores, or Swimmers; the most common types in this group are ducks, swans, geese, auks, penguins, petrels, pelicans, guillemots, gulls, and terns. They primarily live in water, eating fish, worms, and aquatic plants. They are usually polygamous and build their nests among reeds or in damp areas. The meat of many species is edible, but some have a strong and oily taste. The duck is native to Britain but can be found along the shores of most European lakes. It is very greedy and not particularly selective about its food. It requires a mix of both plant and animal-based foods; however, aquatic insects, corn, and vegetables are its main diet. Its meat is flavorful, less rich than that of the goose, and easier to digest. During pea season, it is commonly served on English tables; however, according to Ude, "November is its proper season, when it is plump and fat."
TO RAGOUT A DUCK WHOLE.
933. INGREDIENTS.—1 large duck, pepper and salt to taste, good beef gravy, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme, thickening of butter and flour.
933. INGREDIENTS.—1 large duck, salt and pepper to taste, good beef gravy, 2 sliced onions, 4 sage leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme, and a thickening made of butter and flour.
Mode.—After having emptied and singed the duck, season it inside with pepper and salt, and truss it. Roast it before a clear fire for about 20 minutes, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. Put it into a stewpan with sufficient well-seasoned beef gravy to cover it; slice and fry the onions, and add these, with the sage-leaves and lemon thyme, both of which should be finely minced, to the stock. Simmer gently until the duck is tender; strain, skim, and thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour; boil it up, pour over the duck, and serve. When in season, about, 1-1/2 pint of young green peas, boiled separately, and put in the ragoût, very much improve this dish.
Mode.—After you've cleaned and singed the duck, season the inside with pepper and salt, and then truss it. Roast it over a clear fire for about 20 minutes until it turns a nice brown color. Place it in a stewpan with enough well-seasoned beef gravy to cover it; slice and fry the onions, and add them along with finely minced sage leaves and lemon thyme to the stock. Let it simmer gently until the duck is tender; strain, skim, and thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour; bring it to a boil, pour it over the duck, and serve. When they're in season, about 1.5 pints of young green peas, boiled separately and added to the ragoût, really enhance this dish.
Time.—20 minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes to stew it.
Time.—20 minutes to roast the duck; 20 minutes to stew it.
Average cost, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each.
Average cost, from £0.11 to £0.12 each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from November to February; ducklings from April to August.
In season from November to February; ducklings from April to August.
[Illustration: BUENOS AYRES DUCKS.]
[Illustration: BUENOS AIRES DUCKS.]
THE BUENOS AYRES DUCK.—The Buenos Ayres duck is of East-Indian birth, and is chiefly valuable as an ornament; for we suppose one would as soon think of picking a Chinese teal for luncheon, or a gold fish for breakfast, as to consign the handsome Buenos Ayres to the spit. The prevailing colour of this bird is black, with a metallic lustre, and a gleaming of blue steel about its breast and wings.
THE BUENOS AIRES DUCK.—The Buenos Aires duck comes from East India and is mainly valued for its beauty; you'd as likely think of serving Chinese teal for lunch or goldfish for breakfast as putting the elegant Buenos Aires duck on a spit. The main color of this bird is black, with a metallic sheen and a bluish steel shimmer on its breast and wings.
VARIETIES OF DUCKS.—Naturalists count nearly a hundred different species of ducks; and there is no doubt that the intending keeper of these harmless and profitable birds may easily take his choice from amongst twenty different sorts. There is, however, so little difference in the various members of the family, either as regards hardiness, laying, or hatching, that the most incompetent fancier or breeder may indulge his taste without danger of making a bad bargain. In connection with their value for table, light-coloured ducks are always of milder flavour than those that are dark-coloured, the white Aylesbury's being general favourites. Ducks reared exclusively on vegetable diet will have a whiter and more delicate flesh than those allowed to feed on animal offal; while the flesh of birds fattened on the latter food, will be firmer than that of those which have only partaken of food of a vegetable nature.
VARIETIES OF DUCKS.—Naturalists identify nearly a hundred different species of ducks, and it’s clear that anyone looking to keep these gentle and beneficial birds can easily choose from about twenty different types. However, there is so little variation among the various members of this family, whether it comes to hardiness, laying, or hatching, that even the most inexperienced enthusiast or breeder can indulge their preferences without risking a bad deal. When it comes to their culinary value, light-colored ducks are generally milder in flavor than dark-colored ones, with the white Aylesbury being a common favorite. Ducks raised solely on a plant-based diet will have whiter and more delicate meat compared to those that eat animal byproducts; conversely, the meat of ducks fed the latter will be firmer than that of those which have only eaten plant-based food.
ROAST DUCKS.
934. INGREDIENTS.—A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion stuffing No. 504; a little flour.
934. INGREDIENTS.—A couple of ducks; sage and onion stuffing No. 504; a little flour.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose ducks with plump bellies, and with thick and yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet on, which should be scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then turned up close to the legs. Run a skewer through the middle of each leg, after having drawn them as close as possible to the body, to plump up the breast, passing the same quite through the body. Cut off the heads and necks, and the pinions at the first joint; bring these close to the sides, twist the feet round, and truss them at the back of the bird. After the duck is stuffed, both ends should be secured with string, so as to keep in the seasoning.
Choosing and Trussing.—Select ducks with plump bellies and thick, yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet attached, which should be scalded and have the skin removed, then turned up close to the legs. Insert a skewer through the middle of each leg, pulling them as close as possible to the body to fill out the breast, pushing the skewer all the way through the body. Remove the heads and necks, and cut off the wings at the first joint; bring these close to the sides, twist the feet around, and truss them at the back of the bird. After the duck is stuffed, securely tie both ends with string to keep the seasoning inside.
[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]
[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]
Mode.—To insure ducks being tender, never dress them the same day they are killed; and if the weather permits, they should hang a day or two. Make a stuffing of sage and onion sufficient for one duck, and leave the other unseasoned, as the flavour is not liked by everybody. Put them down to a brisk clear fire, and keep them well basted the whole of the time they are cooking. A few minutes before serving, dredge them lightly with flour, to make them froth and look plump; and when the steam draws towards the fire, send them to table hot and quickly, with a good brown gravy poured round, but not over the ducks, and a little of the same in a tureen. When in season, green peas should invariably accompany this dish.
Mode.—To make sure ducks are tender, never prepare them on the same day they are killed; if the weather allows, they should hang for a day or two. Prepare a stuffing of sage and onion enough for one duck, and leave the other unseasoned, as not everyone likes that flavor. Cook them over a brisk, clear fire, and keep them well basted throughout the cooking process. A few minutes before serving, lightly dust them with flour to make them froth and appear plump; when the steam pulls towards the fire, serve them hot and quickly, with a nice brown gravy poured around, but not over the ducks, and a little of the same in a tureen. When in season, green peas should always accompany this dish.
Time.—Full-grown ducks from 3/4 to 1 hour; ducklings from 25 to 35 minutes.
Time.—Adult ducks take about 45 minutes to 1 hour; ducklings take around 25 to 35 minutes.
Average cost, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each.
Average cost, from 2 shillings 3 pence to 2 shillings 6 pence each.
Sufficient.—A. couple of ducks for 6 or 7 persons.
Sufficient.—A couple of ducks for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable.—Ducklings from April to August; ducks from November to February.
Seasonable.—Ducklings from April to August; ducks from November to February.
Note.—Ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner, and served with the same sauces and accompaniments. When in season, serve apple sauce.
Note.—Ducklings are prepared and roasted in the same way, and served with the same sauces and sides. When in season, serve apple sauce.
[Illustration: ROUEN DUCKS.]
[Illustration: Rouen Ducks.]
THE ROUEN DUCK.—The Rouen, or Rhone duck, is a large and handsome variety, of French extraction. The plumage of the Rouen duck is somewhat sombre; its flesh is also much darker, and, though of higher flavour, not near so delicate as that of our own Aylesbury. It is with this latter breed that the Rouen duck is generally mated; and the result is said to be increase of size and strength. In Normandy and Brittany these ducks, as well as other sorts, greatly abound; and the "duck-liver pâtés" are there almost as popular as the pâté de foie gras of Strasburg. In order to bring the livers of the wretched duck to the fashionable and unnatural size, the same diabolical cruelty is resorted to as in the case of the Strasburg goose. The poor birds are nailed by the feet to a board placed close to a fire, and, in that position, plentifully supplied with food and water. In a few days, the carcase is reduced to a mere shadow, while the liver has grown monstrously. We would rather abstain from the acquaintance of a man who ate pâté de foie gras, knowing its component parts.
THE ROUEN DUCK.—The Rouen, or Rhone duck, is a large and attractive breed from France. The plumage of the Rouen duck is somewhat dull; its meat is also much darker and, while it has a richer flavor, it is not nearly as delicate as that of our own Aylesbury duck. The Rouen duck is typically bred with the Aylesbury, and the outcome is said to be an increase in size and strength. In Normandy and Brittany, these ducks, along with other breeds, are quite common; and the "duck-liver pâtés" there are almost as popular as the pâté de foie gras from Strasbourg. To force the livers of the unfortunate ducks to an unreasonably large size, the same cruel practices used on the Strasbourg geese are implemented. The poor birds are nailed by their feet to a board placed near a fire, and during that time, they are given plenty of food and water. In just a few days, the body becomes just a shadow, while the liver grows grotesquely large. We would rather avoid someone who eats pâté de foie gras, knowing what it’s made from.
DUCK'S EGGS.—The ancient notion that ducks whose beaks have a tendency to curve upwards, are better layers than those whose beaks do not thus point, is, we need hardly say, simply absurd: all ducks are good layers, if they are carefully fed and tended. Ducks generally lay at night, or early in the morning. While they are in perfect health, they will do this; and one of the surest signs of indisposition, among birds of this class, is irregularity in laying. The eggs laid will approach nearly the colour of the layer,—light-coloured ducks laying white eggs, and brown ducks greenish-blue eggs; dark-coloured birds laying the largest eggs. One time of day the notion was prevalent that a duck would hatch no other eggs than her own; and although this is not true, it will be, nevertheless, as well to match the duck's own eggs as closely as possible; for we have known instances wherein the duck has turned out of the nest and destroyed eggs differing from her own in size and colour.
DUCK'S EGGS.—The old idea that ducks with beaks that curve upward are better at laying eggs than those with straight beaks is, quite frankly, ridiculous: all ducks are good layers if they are properly fed and cared for. Ducks typically lay eggs at night or early in the morning. They will do this when they are healthy, and one of the most certain signs of illness in these birds is irregularity in laying. The eggs they lay will be pretty close to the color of the duck—light-colored ducks produce white eggs, and brown ducks yield greenish-blue eggs; darker ducks tend to lay the largest eggs. At one point, there was a belief that a duck would only hatch her own eggs; while this isn't true, it's still a good idea to match the duck's eggs as closely as possible, because there have been cases where a duck has kicked out and destroyed eggs that were different in size and color from her own.
DUCKS.—The Mallard, or Wild Duck, from which is derived the domestic species, is prevalent throughout Europe, Asia, and America. The mallard's most remarkable characteristic is one which sets at defiance the speculations of the most profound ornithologist. The female bird is extremely plain, but the male's plumage is a splendour of greens and browns, and browns and blues. In the spring, however, the plumage of the male begins to fade, and in two months, every vestige of his finery has departed, and he is not to be distinguished from his soberly-garbed wife. Then the greens, and the blues, and the browns begin to bud out again, and by October he is once more a gorgeous drake. It is to be regretted that domestication has seriously deteriorated the moral character of the duck. In a wild state, he is a faithful husband, desiring but one wife, and devoting himself to her; but no sooner is he domesticated than he becomes polygamous, and makes nothing of owning ten or a dozen wives at a time. As regards the females, they are much more solicitous for the welfare of their progeny in a wild state than a tame. Should a tame duck's duckling get into mortal trouble, its mother will just signify her sorrow by an extra "quack," or so, and a flapping of her wings; but touch a wild duck's little one if you dare! she will buffet you with her broad wings, and dash boldly at your face with her stout beak. If you search for her nest amongst the long grass, she will try no end of manoeuvres to lure you from it, her favourite ruse being to pretend lameness, to delude you into the notion that you have only to pursue her vigorously, and her capture is certain; so you persevere for half a mile or so, and then she is up and away, leaving you to find your way back to the nest if you can. Among the ancients, opinion was at variance respecting the wholesomeness and digestibility of goose flesh, but concerning the excellence of the duck all parties were agreed; indeed, they not only assigned to duck-meat the palm for exquisite flavour and delicacy, they even attributed to it medicinal powers of the highest order. Not only the Roman medical writers of the time make mention of it, but likewise the philosophers of the period. Plutarch assures us that Cato preserved his whole household in health, in a season when plague and disease were rife, through dieting them on roast duck.
DUCKS.—The Mallard, or Wild Duck, which is the ancestor of the domestic species, is found all over Europe, Asia, and America. The most striking feature of the mallard defies the views of even the most knowledgeable ornithologist. The female is quite plain, while the male sports bright greens, browns, and blues. However, in the spring, the male's feathers start to lose their luster, and within two months, he's lost all his showy colors and looks just like his drab wife. But by October, the vibrant greens, blues, and browns return, and he becomes a stunning drake once again. It’s unfortunate that domestication has really harmed the duck's character. In the wild, he’s a devoted husband, wanting just one mate, but the moment he’s domesticated, he often becomes polygamous, happily taking ten or twelve wives at once. The females are much more concerned about their young in the wild than when tame. If a tame duck's duckling gets into trouble, the mother might express her distress with an extra "quack" or a flap of her wings; but touch a wild duck’s chick, and you’d better watch out! She’ll hit you with her wide wings and charge at your face with her strong beak. If you look for her nest in the long grass, she’ll do all sorts of tricks to distract you, her favorite being to pretend to be hurt, luring you to chase her, thinking you’ll easily catch her. After you’ve chased her for half a mile, she’ll suddenly dart away, leaving you trying to find your way back to the nest. In ancient times, there were differing views on whether goose flesh was healthy and easy to digest, but everyone agreed on the duck’s excellence; they not only praised duck meat for its exceptional flavor and tenderness but also believed it had remarkable medicinal qualities. Both Roman medical writers and philosophers mentioned it. Plutarch tells us that Cato kept his whole household healthy during a plague by feeding them roast duck.
STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery).
STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cooking).
935. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast duck, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 pints of thin gravy, 1, or a small bunch of green onions, 3 sprigs of parsley, 3 cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
935. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast duck, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoon of flour, 2 pints of thin gravy, 1 or a small bunch of green onions, 3 sprigs of parsley, 3 cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne and salt to taste, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Put the butter into a stewpan; cut up the duck into joints, lay them in with the slices of lean ham or bacon; make it brown, then dredge in a tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well in before adding the gravy. Put in the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and when it has simmered for 1/4 hour, add a pint of young green peas, and stew gently for about 1/2 hour. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar; take out the duck, place it round the dish, and the peas in the middle.
Method.—Melt the butter in a saucepan; chop the duck into pieces and add them along with slices of lean ham or bacon; brown it all, then sprinkle in a tablespoon of flour and mix it well before adding the gravy. Add the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and after it has simmered for 15 minutes, stir in a pint of young green peas and cook gently for about 30 minutes. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar; remove the duck, arrange it around the dish, and place the peas in the center.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Time: 45 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s.
Average cost, not including the cold duck, 1s.
Seasonable from June to August.
Seasonal from June to August.
DUCKS HATCHING.—Concerning incubation by ducks, a practised writer says, "The duck requires a secret and safe place, rather than any attendance, and will, at nature's call, cover her eggs and seek her food. On hatching, there is not often a necessity for taking away any of the brood; and, having hatched, let the mother retain her young ones upon the nest her own time. On her moving with her brood, let a coop be prepared upon the short grass, if the weather be fine, and under shelter, if otherwise."
DUCKS HATCHING.—When it comes to ducks hatching their eggs, an experienced writer says, "A duck needs a private and safe spot instead of constant attention, and will, when the time comes, cover her eggs and look for food. Once the eggs hatch, there's usually no need to remove any of the ducklings; and after hatching, let the mother keep her young ones on the nest for as long as she likes. When she moves with her ducklings, prepare a coop on the short grass if the weather is nice, and provide shelter if it isn’t."
COOPING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS.—Brood ducks should be cooped at some distance from any other. A wide and flat dish of water, to be often renewed, should stand just outside the coop, and barley, or any other meal, be the first food of the ducklings. It will be needful, if it be wet weather, to clip their tails, lest these draggle, and so weaken the bird. The period of the duck's confinement to the coop will depend on the weather, and on the strength of the ducklings. A fortnight is usually the extent of time necessary, and they may even be sometimes permitted to enjoy the luxury of a swim at the end of a week. They should not, however, be allowed to stay too long in the water at first; for they will then become ill, their feathers get rough, and looseness of the bowels ensue. In the latter case, let them be closely cooped for a few days, and bean-meal or oatmeal be mixed with their ordinary food.
COOPING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS.—Brood ducks should be kept in separate pens away from others. A wide, flat dish of water, which should be changed frequently, should be placed just outside the pen, and barley or another type of meal should be the first food for the ducklings. If it’s rainy weather, their tails may need to be trimmed to prevent them from getting wet and weakening the bird. The length of time the ducks need to stay in the pen will depend on the weather and the health of the ducklings. Usually, two weeks is the necessary duration, and sometimes they can enjoy a swim as early as a week in. However, they shouldn't be allowed to stay in the water for too long at first; if they do, they may get sick, their feathers may become rough, and they might experience diarrhea. In such cases, keep them in the pen for a few days and mix bean meal or oatmeal with their regular food.
[Illustration: AYLESBURY DUCKS.]
[Illustration: Aylesbury Ducks.]
THE AYLESBURY DUCK.—The white Aylesbury duck is, and deservedly, a universal favourite. Its snowy plumage and comfortable comportment make it a credit to the poultry-yard, while its broad and deep breast, and its ample back, convey the assurance that your satisfaction will not cease at its death. In parts of Buckinghamshire, this member of the duck family is bred on an extensive scale; not on plains and commons, however, as might be naturally imagined, but in the abodes of the cottagers. Round the walls of the living-rooms, and of the bedroom even, are fixed rows of wooden boxes, lined with hay; and it is the business of the wife and children to nurse and comfort the feathered lodgers, to feed the little ducklings, and to take the old ones out for an airing. Sometimes the "stock" ducks are the cottager's own property, but it more frequently happens that they are intrusted to his care by a wholesale breeder, who pays him so much per score for all ducklings properly raised. To be perfect, the Aylesbury duck should be plump, pure white, with yellow feet, and a flesh-coloured beak.
THE AYLESBURY DUCK.—The white Aylesbury duck is, and rightly so, a universal favorite. Its snow-white feathers and calm demeanor make it a standout in the poultry yard, while its broad and deep breast and ample back assure you that your enjoyment won’t end with its demise. In parts of Buckinghamshire, this member of the duck family is bred on a large scale; not on open fields and commons, as one might expect, but in the homes of cottagers. Around the walls of the living rooms, and even in the bedrooms, are rows of wooden boxes lined with hay; it’s the job of the wife and kids to care for and comfort the feathered residents, feed the little ducklings, and take the adults out for a stroll. Sometimes the “stock” ducks belong to the cottager, but more often they are entrusted to his care by a wholesale breeder, who pays him a set amount for every batch of ducklings that are properly raised. An ideal Aylesbury duck should be plump, pure white, with yellow feet, and a flesh-colored beak.
STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery).
STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cooking).
936. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz, of butter rolled in flour, 1-1/2 pint of green peas.
936. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 2 oz of butter mixed with flour, 1-1/2 pints of green peas.
Mode.—Cut up the duck into joints, lay it in the gravy, and add a seasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced lemon-peel; let tins gradually warm through, but not boil. Throw the peas into boiling water slightly salted, and boil them rapidly until tender. Drain them, stir in the pounded sugar, and the butter rolled in flour; shake them over the fire for two or three minutes, and serve in the centre of the dish, with the duck laid round.
Mode.—Chop the duck into pieces, place it in the gravy, and add cayenne, salt, and minced lemon peel for seasoning; let it warm through gradually, but do not let it boil. Add the peas to boiling water that’s slightly salted, and cook them quickly until they’re tender. Drain them, mix in the powdered sugar and the butter rolled in flour; heat them over the fire for two or three minutes, and serve in the center of the dish with the duck arranged around it.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the peas, when they are full grown.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the peas when they are fully grown.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, 10d.
Average cost, not including the cold duck, 10d.
Seasonable from June to August.
Summer from June to August.
FATTENING DUCKS.—Many duck-keepers give their birds nothing in the shape of food, letting them wander about and pick up a living for themselves; and they will seem to get fat even upon this precarious feeding. Unless, however, ducks are supplied with, besides chance food, a liberal feed of solid corn, or grain, morning and evening, their flesh will become flabby and insipid. The simple way to fatten ducks is to let them have as much, substantial food as they will eat, bruised oats and pea-meal being the standard fattening food for them. No cramming is required, as with the turkey and some other poultry: they will cram themselves to the very verge of suffocation. At the same time, plenty of exercise and clean water should be at their service.
FATTENING DUCKS.—Many duck owners let their birds roam freely and forage for food on their own, and it might look like they're getting fat even with this unreliable diet. However, if ducks aren’t given a good amount of solid corn or grain to eat in the morning and evening, their meat will turn soft and bland. The easiest way to fatten ducks is to provide them with as much nutritious food as they want, with bruised oats and pea meal being the ideal fattening options. There’s no need for forced feeding like with turkeys and some other poultry; they will eat until they’re almost stuffed. Additionally, they should have plenty of room to exercise and access to clean water.
AMERICAN MODE OF CAPTURING DUCKS.—On the American rivers, the modes of capture are various. Sometimes half a dozen artificial birds are fastened to a little raft, and which is so weighted that the sham birds squat naturally on the water. This is quite sufficient to attract the notice of a passing flock, who descend to cultivate the acquaintance of the isolated few when the concealed hunter, with his fowling-piece, scatters a deadly leaden shower amongst them. In the winter, when the water is covered with rubble ice, the fowler of the Delaware paints his canoe entirely white, lies flat in the bottom of it, and floats with the broken ice; from which the aquatic inhabitants fail to distinguish it. So floats the canoe till he within it understands, by the quacking, and fluttering, and whirring of wings, that he is in the midst of a flock, when he is up in a moment with the murderous piece, and dying quacks and lamentations rend the still air.
AMERICAN WAY OF CATCHING DUCKS.—On American rivers, there are various ways to catch ducks. Sometimes, a half dozen fake birds are attached to a little raft, which is weighted so that the decoys sit naturally on the water. This is usually enough to catch the attention of a passing flock, which comes down to get closer to the few isolated birds. That's when the hidden hunter, with his shotgun, unleashes a deadly rain of shot among them. In winter, when the water is covered with broken ice, the duck hunter in Delaware paints his canoe completely white, lies flat in the bottom, and floats among the ice. The ducks can't tell it apart from their surroundings. The canoe drifts along until the hunter hears the quacking, fluttering, and whirring of wings, signaling that he’s surrounded by a flock. In an instant, he's up with his deadly gun, and the air is filled with dying quacks and cries of distress.
[Illustration: BOW-BILL DUCKS.]
[Illustration: BOW-BILL DUCKS.]
Bow-BILL DUCKS, &c.—Every one knows how awkward are the Anatidae, waddling along on their unelastic webbed toes, and their short legs, which, being placed considerably backward, make the fore part of the body preponderate. Some, however, are formed more adapted to terrestrial habits than others, and notably amongst these may be named Dendronessa sponsa, the summer duck of America. This beautiful bird rears her young in the holes of trees, generally overhanging the water. When strong enough, the young scramble to the mouth of the hole, launch into the air with their little wings and feet spread out, and drop into their favourite element. Whenever their birthplace is at some distance from the water, the mother carries them to it, one by one, in her bill, holding them so as not to injure their yet tender frame. On several occasions, however, when the hole was 30, 40, or more yards from a piece of water, Audubon observed that the mother suffered the young to fall on the grass and dried leaves beneath the tree, and afterwards led them directly to the nearest edge of the next pool or creek. There are some curious varieties of the domestic duck, which only appear interesting from their singularity, for there does not seem to be anything of use or value in the unusual characteristics which distinguish them; thus, the bow-bill duck, as shown in the engraving, called by some writers the hook-bill, is remarkable for the peculiarly strange distortion of its beak, and the tuft on the top of its head. The penguin duck, again, waddles in an upright position, like the penguin, on account of the unnatural situation of its legs. These odd peculiarities add nothing of value to the various breeds, and may be set down as only the result of accidental malformation, transmitted from generation to generation.
Bow-BILL DUCKS, &c.—Everyone knows how clumsy the Anatidae are, waddling along on their stiff webbed toes and their short legs, which are placed far back, causing the front of their bodies to lean forward. Some, however, are better suited for life on land than others, and among these is the Dendronessa sponsa, the summer duck of America. This beautiful bird raises her young in tree holes, usually above the water. When they are strong enough, the chicks scramble to the entrance of the hole, take off with their tiny wings and feet spread out, and drop into their favorite element. If their home is far from the water, the mother carries them there, one by one, in her bill, holding them carefully so as not to hurt their delicate bodies. However, Audubon noted on several occasions when the hole was 30, 40, or more yards from water, that the mother allowed the young to fall onto the grass and dry leaves below the tree and then led them straight to the nearest edge of the nearest pool or creek. There are some strange varieties of domestic ducks that only seem interesting because they are unusual, as their unique traits don’t appear to have any practical use or value; for instance, the bow-bill duck, depicted in the engraving and referred to by some writers as the hook-bill, is notable for the oddly shaped distortion of its beak and the tuft on its head. The penguin duck, on the other hand, waddles upright like a penguin due to the awkward position of its legs. These peculiar traits add no real value to the various breeds and can be viewed as simply results of random malformation passed down through generations.
STEWED DUCK AND TURNIPS (Cold Meat Cookery).
STEWED DUCK AND TURNIPS (Cold Meat Cooking).
937. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good gravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. of turnips, weighed after being peeled, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
937. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast duck, 1/2 pint of good gravy, 4 shallots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savory herbs, 1 blade of ground mace, 1 lb. of turnips, weighed after peeling, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut up the duck into joints, fry the shalots, carrots, and herbs, and put them, with the duck, into the gravy; add the pounded mace, and stew gently for 20 minutes or 1/2 hour. Cut about 1 lb. of turnips, weighed after being peeled, into 1/2-inch squares, put the butter into a stewpan, and stew them till quite tender, which will be in about 1/2 hour, or rather more; season with pepper and salt, and serve in the centre of the dish, with the duck, &c. laid round.
Mode.—Cut the duck into pieces, fry the shallots, carrots, and herbs, and add them, along with the duck, into the gravy; sprinkle in the ground mace, and simmer gently for 20 to 30 minutes. Cut about 1 lb. of turnips, measured after peeling, into 1/2-inch cubes, place the butter in a saucepan, and cook them until they are completely tender, which will take about 30 minutes or a bit longer; season with pepper and salt, and serve in the center of the dish, with the duck and other items arranged around.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour to stew the turnips.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes to cook the turnips.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, 1s.
Average cost, not including the cold duck, 1s.
Seasonable from November to February.
Available from November to February.
THE WILD DUCK.—In many parts of England the wild duck is to be found, especially in those desolate fenny parts where water abounds. In Lincolnshire they are plentiful, and are annually taken in the decoys, which consist of ponds situate in the marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds which frequent them from, being disturbed. In these the birds sleep during the day; and as soon as evening sets in, the decoy rises, and the wild fowl feed during the night. Now is the time for the decoy ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds diverge, in different directions, certain canals, at the end of which funnel nets are placed; along these the decoy ducks, trained for the purpose, lead the others in search of food. After they have got a certain length, a decoy-man appears, and drives them further on, until they are finally taken in the nets. It is from these decoys, in Lincolnshire, that the London market is mostly supplied. The Chinese have a singular mode of catching these ducks. A person wades in the water up to the chin, and, having his head covered with an empty calabash, approaches the place where the ducks are. As the birds have no suspicion of the nature of the object which is concealed under the calabash, they suffer its approach, and allow it to move at will among their flock. The man, accordingly, walks about in the midst of his game, and, whenever he pleases, pulls them by the legs under the water, and fixes them to his belt, until he has secured as many as he requires, and then moves off as he went amongst them, without exciting the slightest suspicion of the trick he has been playing them. This singular mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, the earthen vessels of the Hindoos being used instead of calabashes. These vessels, being those in which the inhabitants boil their rice, are considered, after once being used, as defiled, and are accordingly thrown into the river. The duck-takers, finding them suitable for their purpose, put them on their heads; and as the ducks, from seeing them constantly floating down the stream, are familiar with their appearance, they regard them as objects from which no danger is to be expected.
THE WILD DUCK.—In many parts of England, you can find wild ducks, especially in the lonely, marshy areas where there's plenty of water. They're abundant in Lincolnshire, where they're regularly caught in decoys. These decoys are ponds located in the marshes, surrounded by trees or reeds to keep the birds undisturbed. The ducks rest in these ponds during the day, and as soon as evening falls, the decoy rises, and the wildfowl start feeding at night. This is when the decoy ducks can trap the others. From the ponds, several canals lead off in different directions, with funnel nets set at the ends. The decoy ducks, trained for this purpose, guide the wild ducks in search of food. Once the ducks travel a certain distance, a decoy-man appears and drives them further until they're caught in the nets. It’s from these decoys in Lincolnshire that most of the wild ducks go to the London market. The Chinese have a unique method for catching these ducks. A person wades into the water up to their chin, covering their head with an empty gourd, and approaches the ducks. Since the birds don't suspect anything about the object under the gourd, they let it get close and allow it to move freely among them. The person walks around among the ducks and, whenever they choose, grabs them by the legs under the water and attaches them to their belt until they've caught as many as they need, then they leave without raising any suspicion about the trick they've played. This unusual method of duck hunting is also practiced along the Ganges, where the local Hindus use earthenware pots instead of gourds. These pots, which are used for boiling rice, are considered contaminated after use and are tossed into the river. The duck catchers find them effective for hunting and wear them on their heads; since the ducks are used to seeing these pots floating by, they don't see them as a threat.
[Illustration: CALL-DUCKS.]
[Illustration: Call Ducks.]
DUCK-SNARES IN THE LINCOLNSHIRE FENS.—The following interesting account of how duck-snaring used to be managed in the Lincolnshire fens, was published some years ago, in a work entitled the "Feathered Tribes."—"In the lakes to which they resorted, their favourite haunts were observed, and in the most sequestered part of a haunt, a pipe or ditch was cut across the entrance, decreasing gradually in width from the entrance to the further end, which was not more than two feet wide. The ditch was of a circular form, but did not bend much for the first ten yards. The banks of the lake on each side of the ditch were kept clear of weeds and close herbage, in order that the ducks might get on them to sit and dress themselves. Along the ditch, poles were driven into the ground close to the edge on each side, and the tops were bent over across the ditch and tied together. The poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, and formed an arch, the top of which was tea feet distant from the surface of the water; the arch was made to decrease in height as the ditch decreased in width, so that the remote end was not more than eighteen inches in height. The poles were placed about six feet from each other, and connected by poles laid lengthwise across the arch, and tied together. Over the whole was thrown a net, which was made fast to a reed fence at the entrance and nine or ten yards up the ditch, and afterwards strongly pegged to the ground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the entrance, was fixed what was called a tunnel-net, of about four yards in length, of a round form, and kept open by a number of hoops about eighteen inches in diameter, placed at a small distance from each other to keep it distended. Supposing the circular bend of the ditch to be to the right, when one stands with his back to the lake, then on the left-hand side, a number of reed fences were constructed, called shootings, for the purpose of screening the decoy-man from observation, and, in such a manner, that the fowl in the decoy would not be alarmed while he was driving those that were in the pipe. These shootings, which were ten in number, were about four yards in length and about six feet high. From the end of the last shooting a person could not see the lake, owing to the bend of the ditch; and there was then no further occasion for shelter. Were it not for these shootings, the fowl that remained about the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed, if the person driving the fowl already under the net should have been exposed, and would have become so shy as entirely to forsake the place."
DUCK-SNARES IN THE LINCOLNSHIRE FENS.—The following interesting account of how duck-snaring used to be managed in the Lincolnshire fens was published some years ago in a work called "Feathered Tribes."—"In the lakes where they gathered, their favorite spots were noted, and in the most secluded part of a spot, a pipe or ditch was cut across the entrance, gradually narrowing from the entrance to the far end, which was no more than two feet wide. The ditch was circular but did not curve much for the first ten yards. The banks of the lake on each side of the ditch were kept free of weeds and grass, allowing the ducks to get on them to rest and groom themselves. Along the ditch, poles were driven into the ground near the edge on each side, with the tops bent over the ditch and tied together. The poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, forming an arch, the top of which was ten feet above the water's surface; the arch was designed to lower as the ditch narrowed, so that the far end was only about eighteen inches high. The poles were spaced about six feet apart, and connected by poles laid across the arch, tied together. A net was spread over everything, secured to a reed fence at the entrance and nine or ten yards up the ditch, then strongly pegged to the ground. At the far end of the ditch, a tunnel-net about four yards long, round in shape, was installed, kept open by several hoops about eighteen inches in diameter, placed close together to maintain its shape. Assuming the circular bend of the ditch goes to the right while standing with your back to the lake, several reed fences were built on the left side, called shootings, to hide the decoy-man from view, ensuring that the decoy ducks wouldn't be scared while he drove the ducks in the pipe. These shootings, totaling ten, were about four yards long and six feet high. From the end of the last shooting, one couldn't see the lake due to the ditch's curve, eliminating any further need for cover. Without these shootings, the ducks near the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed if the person driving the ducks already under the net was exposed, causing them to become shy and completely abandon the area."
THE DECOY MAN, DOG, AND DUCKS.—"The first thing the decoy-man did, on approaching the ditch, was to take a piece of lighted peat or turf, and to hold it near his mouth, to prevent the birds from smelling him. He was attended by a dog trained to render him assistance. He walked very silently about halfway up the shootings, where a small piece of wood was thrust through the reed fence, which made an aperture just large enough to enable him to see if there were any fowl within; if not, he walked to see if any were about the entrance to the ditch. If there were, he stopped, made a motion to his dog, and gave him a piece of cheese to eat, when the dog went directly to a hole through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew off the back into the water. The dog returned along the bank between the reed fences, and came out to his master at another hole. The man then gave the dog something more to encourage him, and the dog repeated his rounds, till the birds were attracted by his motions, and followed him into the mouth of the ditch—an operation which was called 'working them.' The man now retreated further back, working the dog at different holes, until the ducks were sufficiently under the net. He then commanded his dog to lie down under the fence, and going himself forward to the end of the ditch next the lake, he took off his hat, and gave it a wave between the shootings. All the birds that were under the net could then see him, but none that were in the lake could. The former flew forward, and the man then ran to the next shooting, and waved his hat, and so on, driving them along until they came into the tunnel-net, into which they crept. When they were all in, the man gave the net a twist, so as to prevent them getting back. He then took the net off from the end of the ditch, and taking out, one by one, the ducks that were in it, dislocated their necks."
THE DECOY MAN, DOG, AND DUCKS.—"The first thing the decoy-man did as he approached the ditch was to take a piece of burning peat or turf and hold it near his mouth to keep the birds from smelling him. He was accompanied by a dog trained to help him. He walked quietly about halfway up the shooting area, where a small piece of wood was pushed through the reed fence, creating an opening just big enough for him to see if there were any birds around; if not, he moved to check if any were near the entrance of the ditch. If there were, he stopped, signaled to his dog, and gave him a piece of cheese to eat. The dog then went straight to a hole in the reed fence, and the birds quickly flew back into the water. The dog returned along the bank between the reed fences and came out to his master at another hole. The man then gave the dog a little more to encourage him, and the dog repeated his rounds until the birds were attracted by his movements and followed him into the mouth of the ditch—an operation called 'working them.' The man then moved further back, using the dog at different holes until the ducks were sufficiently underneath the net. He then commanded his dog to lie down under the fence and moved forward to the end of the ditch next to the lake, took off his hat, and waved it between the shooting areas. All the birds under the net could see him, but none in the lake could. The former flew forward, and the man then ran to the next shooting area, waved his hat, and continued this until they entered the tunnel-net, where they crept in. Once they were all in, the man twisted the net to keep them from escaping. He then removed the net from the end of the ditch and took out the ducks one by one, dislocating their necks."
BOILED FOWLS OR CHICKENS.
[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.]
[Illustration: BOILED CHICKEN.]
938. INGREDIENTS.—A pair of fowls; water.
938. INGREDIENTS.—A pair of chickens; water.
Choosing and Trussing.—In choosing fowls for boiling, it should be borne in mind that those that are not black-legged are generally much whiter when dressed. Pick, draw, singe, wash, and truss them in the following manner, without the livers in the wings; and, in drawing, be careful not to break the gall-bladder:—Cut off the neck, leaving sufficient skin to skewer back. Cut the feet off to the first joint, tuck the stumps into a slit made on each side of the belly, twist the wings over the back of the fowl, and secure the top of the leg and the bottom of the wing together by running a skewer through them and the body. The other side must be done in the same manner. Should the fowl be very large and old, draw the sinews of the legs before tucking them in. Make a slit in the apron of the fowl, large enough to admit the parson's nose, and tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place.
Choosing and Trussing.—When selecting chickens for boiling, remember that those without black legs are usually much whiter when prepared. Clean, gut, singe, wash, and truss them as follows, without including the livers in the wings; and, while gutting, be careful not to break the gallbladder:—Cut off the neck, leaving enough skin to skewer it back. Cut the feet off at the first joint, tuck the stumps into a slit made on each side of the belly, twist the wings over the back of the chicken, and secure the top of the leg and the bottom of the wing together by inserting a skewer through them and the body. Do the same on the other side. If the chicken is very large and old, remove the sinews from the legs before tucking them in. Make a slit in the apron of the chicken, large enough to fit the parson's nose, and tie a string around the tops of the legs to keep them in place.
Mode.—When, they are firmly trussed, put them into a stewpan with plenty of hot water; bring it to boil, and carefully remove all the scum as it rises. Simmer very gently until the fowl is tender, and bear in mind that the slower it boils, the plumper and whiter will the fowl be. Many cooks wrap them in a floured cloth to preserve the colour, and to prevent the scum from clinging to them; in this case, a few slices of lemon should be placed on the breasts; over these a sheet of buttered paper, and then the cloth; cooking them in this manner renders the flesh very white. Boiled ham, bacon, boiled tongue, or pickled pork, are the usual accompaniments to boiled fowls, and they may be served with Béchamel, white sauce, parsley and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, celery, or mushroom sauce. A little should be poured over the fowls, after the skewers are removed, and the remainder sent in a tureen to table.
Method.—Once they are securely tied up, place them in a large pot with plenty of hot water; bring it to a boil and carefully skim off any foam that forms. Let it simmer gently until the chicken is tender, remembering that the slower it cooks, the plumper and whiter the chicken will be. Many chefs wrap the chicken in a floured cloth to maintain its color and prevent foam from sticking; in this case, a few slices of lemon should be placed on the breasts, followed by a sheet of buttered paper, and then the cloth; cooking it this way makes the meat very white. Boiled ham, bacon, boiled tongue, or pickled pork are the typical sides for boiled chicken, and they can be served with Béchamel, white sauce, parsley and butter, oyster sauce, lemon, liver, celery, or mushroom sauce. A little sauce should be poured over the chicken after removing the skewers, and the rest should be brought to the table in a serving dish.
Time.—Large fowl, 1 hour; moderate-sized one, 3/4 hour; chicken, from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
Time.—Large poultry, 1 hour; medium-sized poultry, 45 minutes; chicken, from 20 minutes to 30 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 5s. the pair.
Average cost, during the full season, 5 shillings per pair.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.
Available all year, but rarely seen in early spring.
[Illustration: GAME-FOWLS.]
[Illustration: GAME-FOWL.]
THE GAME FOWL.—Respecting the period at which this well-known member of the Gallus family became domesticated, history is silent. There is little doubt, however, that, like the dog, it has been attached to mankind ever since mankind were attached to civilization. Although the social position of this bird is, at the present time, highly respectable, it is nothing to what it was when Rome was mistress of the world. Writing at that period, Pliny says, respecting the domestic cock, "The gait of the cock is proud and commanding; he walks with head erect and elevated crest; alone, of all birds, he habitually looks up to the sky, raising, at the same time, his curved and scythe-formed tail, and inspiring terror in the lion himself, that most intrepid of animals.——They regulate the conduct of our magistrates, and open or close to them their own houses. They prescribe rest or movement to the Roman fasces: they command or prohibit battles. In a word, they lord it over the masters of the world." As well among the ancient Greeks as the Romans, was the cock regarded with respect, and even awe. The former people practised divinations by means of this bird. Supposing there to be a doubt in the camp as to the fittest day to fight a battle, the letter of every day in the week would be placed face downwards, and a grain of corn placed on each; then the sacred cock would be let loose, and, according to the letters he pecked his corn from, so would the battle-time be regulated. On one momentous occasion, however, a person inimical to priestly interest officiously examined the grain, and found that those lying on the letters not wanted were made of wax, and the birds, preferring the true grain, left these untouched. It is needless to add that, after this, divination through the medium of cocks and grain fell out of fashion. Whether or no the learned fowl above alluded to were of the "game" breed, is unknown; but that the birds were bred for the inhuman sport of fighting many hundred years before the Christian era, there can be no doubt. Themistocles, the Athenian king, who flourished more than two thousand years ago, took advantage of the sight of a pitched battle between two cocks to harangue his soldiers on courage. "Observe," said he, "with what intrepid valour they fight, inspired by no other motive than lore of victory; whereas you have to contend for your religion and your liberty, for your wives and children, and for the tombs of your ancestors." And to this day his courage has not degenerated. He still preserves his bold and elegant gait, his sparkling eye, while his wedge-shaped beak and cruel spurs are ever ready to support his defiant crow. It is no wonder that the breed is not plentiful—first, on account of the few eggs laid by the hen; and, secondly, from the incurable pugnacity of the chicks. Half fledged broods may be found blind as bats from fighting, and only waiting for the least glimmer of sight to be at it again. Without doubt, the flesh of game fowls is every way superior to that of every chicken of the family.
THE GAME FOWL.—When it comes to when this well-known member of the Gallus family became domesticated, history doesn’t say much. However, it’s pretty clear that, like dogs, they have been connected to humans since we started building civilizations. Although today this bird is seen as respectable, it was held in even higher regard when Rome ruled the world. Pliny wrote during that time about the domestic rooster, saying, “The rooster walks with a proud and commanding gait; he holds his head high with a raised crest; unlike any other bird, he frequently looks up at the sky, lifting his curved, sickle-shaped tail, inspiring fear even in the lion, the bravest of animals. They influence the actions of our magistrates and can open or close their own homes for them. They dictate rest or movement to the Roman fasces; they command or forbid battles. In short, they control the rulers of the world.” The rooster was respected, even revered, by both the ancient Greeks and Romans. The Greeks used this bird for divination. If there was uncertainty in the camp about the best day to go into battle, they would lay the letters of the week face down, with a grain of corn on each one. Then the sacred rooster would be released, and the day would be determined by the letters he pecked at for food. On one significant occasion, though, someone opposed to the interests of the priests checked the grains and discovered that those on the unwanted letters were made of wax, while the birds avoided them and chose the real grain. Needless to say, after this, divination using roosters and grain fell out of practice. Whether the learned rooster mentioned earlier was of the "game" breed is unknown, but it's certain these birds were raised for the brutal sport of fighting many centuries before the Christian era. Themistocles, the Athenian leader over two thousand years ago, took the opportunity of watching a fight between two roosters to speak to his soldiers about bravery. “Look,” he said, “at their fearless courage as they fight, motivated only by the love of victory; while you fight for your religion, your freedom, your wives and children, and the graves of your ancestors.” Even today, his courage hasn’t faded. He still displays his bold and graceful stance, his bright eyes, and his sharp beak and vicious spurs are always ready to back up his defiant crow. It’s no surprise this breed isn’t common—first, because hens lay so few eggs; and second, due to the unyielding aggressiveness of the chicks. Young broods can often be found nearly blind from fighting, just waiting for the slightest chance to go at it again. Undoubtedly, the meat of game fowls is superior to that of any other chicken in the family.
BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.
939. INGREDIENTS.—A large fowl, seasoning, to taste, of pepper and salt, 2 handfuls of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, 3/4 pint of thickened gravy, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
939. INGREDIENTS.—A large chicken, seasoning to taste, with salt and pepper, 2 handfuls of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, 3/4 pint of thick gravy, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Cut the fowl into quarters, roast it until three-parts done, and keep it well basted whilst at the fire. Take the fowl up, broil it for a few minutes over a clear fire, and season it with pepper and salt. Have ready some mushroom sauce made in the following manner. Put the mushrooms into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, the ham, a seasoning of pepper and salt, and the gravy; simmer these gently for 1/2 hour, add the lemon-juice and sugar, dish the fowl, and pour the sauce round them.
Mode.—Cut the chicken into quarters, roast it until it's mostly cooked, and make sure to baste it well while it's on the fire. Take the chicken off, broil it for a few minutes over a clean fire, and season it with pepper and salt. Prepare some mushroom sauce like this: Place the mushrooms in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, some ham, and a dash of pepper and salt, along with the gravy; let these simmer gently for 30 minutes, add the lemon juice and sugar, plate the chicken, and pour the sauce around it.
Time.—To roast the fowl, 35 minutes; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes.
Time.—To roast the bird, 35 minutes; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, during peak season, 2.5 shillings.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable.—In full season from May to January.
Seasonable.—In season from May to January.
[Illustration: BLACK BANTAMS.]
[Illustration: Black Bantams.]
THE BANTAM.—No one will dispute that for beauty, animation, plumage, and courage the Bantam is entitled to rank next to the game fowl. As its name undoubtedly implies, the bird is of Asiatic origin. The choicest sorts are the buff-coloured, and those that are entirely black. A year-old Bantam cock of pure breed will not weigh more than sixteen ounces. Despite its small size, however, it is marvellously bold, especially in defence of its progeny. A friend of the writer's, residing at Kensington, possessed a pair of thorough-bred Bantams, that were allowed the range of a yard where a fierce bull-terrier was kennelled. The hen had chicks; and, when about three weeks old, one of them strayed into the dog-kennel. The grim beast within took no notice of the tiny fledgling; but, when the anxious mother ventured in to fetch out the truant, with a growl the dog woke, and nearly snapped her asunder in his great jaws. The cock bird saw the tragic fate of its partner; but, nothing daunted, flew at the dog with a fierce cry, and pecked savagely at its face. The odds, however, were too great; and, when the terrier had sufficiently recovered from the astonishment caused by the sudden and unexpected attack, he seized the audacious Bantam, and shook him to death; and, in five minutes, the devoted couple were entombed in Pincher's capacious maw.
THE BANTAM.—No one will argue that for beauty, energy, plumage, and bravery, the Bantam deserves to be ranked just below the game fowl. As its name clearly suggests, this bird hails from Asia. The best varieties are the buff-colored ones and those that are completely black. A purebred Bantam rooster that's a year old won't weigh more than sixteen ounces. Yet, despite its small size, it is incredibly bold, especially when defending its young. A friend of the writer, living in Kensington, had a pair of thoroughbred Bantams that roamed a yard where a fierce bull-terrier was kept. The hen had chicks, and when they were about three weeks old, one of them wandered into the dog kennel. The fierce dog inside ignored the tiny chick, but when the worried mother went in to retrieve it, the dog growled and nearly snapped her in half with its massive jaws. The rooster witnessed the tragic fate of his partner but, undeterred, flew at the dog with a fierce cry and pecked savagely at its face. However, the odds were too great, and when the terrier recovered from the shock of the sudden attack, he seized the brave Bantam and shook it to death. In just five minutes, the devoted couple was swallowed by Pincher's large mouth.
BOILED FOWL AND RICE.
940. INGREDIENTS.—1 fowl, mutton broth, 2 onions, 2 small blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint of rice, parsley and butter.
940. INGREDIENTS.—1 chicken, mutton broth, 2 onions, 2 small pieces of ground mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint of rice, parsley, and butter.
Mode.—Truss the fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan with sufficient clear well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it; add the onion, mace, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; stew very gently for about 1 hour, should the fowl be large, and about 1/2 hour before it is ready put in the rice, which should be well washed and soaked. When the latter is tender, strain it from the liquor, and put it on a sieve reversed to dry before the fire, and, in the mean time, keep the fowl hot. Dish it, put the rice round as a border, pour a little parsley and butter over the fowl, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.
Mode.—Prepare the chicken for boiling and place it in a saucepan with enough clear, well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it; add the onion, mace, and a dash of pepper and salt; simmer very gently for about an hour if the chicken is large. About 30 minutes before it’s done, add the rice, which should be well washed and soaked. When the rice is tender, strain it from the liquid and set it on a sieve turned upside down to dry in front of the fire, while keeping the chicken warm. Plate the chicken, arrange the rice around it as a border, pour a little parsley and butter over the chicken, and serve the rest in a tureen.
Time.—A large fowl, 1 hour.
Time.—A large chicken, 1 hour.
Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, during the full season, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.
Available year-round, but rare in early spring.
[Illustration: DORKINGS.]
[Illustration: DORKINGS.]
THE DORKING.—This bird takes its name from that of a town in Surrey, where the breed is to be found in greater numbers, and certainly in greater perfection, than elsewhere. It is generally believed that this particular branch of poultry was found in the town above mentioned as long ago as the Roman era. The Dorking's chief characteristic is that he has five claws on each foot; the extra claw, however, is never of sufficient length to encumber the foot, or to cause it to "drag" its nest, or scratch out the eggs. The colour of the true Dorking is pure white; long in the body, short in the legs, and a prolific layer. Thirty years ago, there was much controversy respecting the origin of the Dorking. The men of Sussex declared that the bird belonged to them, and brought birds indigenous to their weald, and possessing all the Dorking fine points and peculiarities, in proof of the declaration. Others inclined to the belief that the Poland bird was the father of the Dorking, and not without at least a show of reason, as the former bird much resembles the latter in shape; and, despite its sombre hue, it is well known that the Poland cock will occasionally beget thorough white stock from white English hens. The commotion has, however, long ago subsided, and Dorking still retains its fair reputation for fowl.
THE DORKING.—This bird is named after a town in Surrey, where the breed is found in higher numbers and definitely in better quality than anywhere else. It's generally believed that this type of poultry has been around since the Roman era in that town. The Dorking’s main feature is that it has five toes on each foot; the extra toe, however, never grows long enough to hinder the foot, cause it to drag its nest, or scratch up the eggs. The true Dorking is pure white in color; it has a long body, short legs, and is a prolific layer. Thirty years ago, there was a lot of debate about the origin of the Dorking. People from Sussex claimed the bird was theirs, presenting their local birds, which had all the fine traits and characteristics of Dorkings, as evidence. Others believed that the Poland bird was the ancestor of the Dorking, and they had some reasonable points, as the former bird looks quite similar to the latter; and despite its dark color, it's well known that the Poland rooster can sometimes produce pure white offspring from white English hens. However, the debate has long since settled down, and the Dorking still maintains its good reputation as a poultry breed.
CURRIED FOWL.
941. INGREDIENTS.—1 fowl, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions sliced, 1 pint of white veal gravy, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
941. INGREDIENTS.—1 chicken, 2 oz. of butter, 3 sliced onions, 1 pint of white veal gravy, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoons of cream, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—Put the butter into a stewpan, with the onions sliced, the fowl cut into small joints, and the apple peeled, cored, and minced. Fry of a pale brown, add the stock, and stew gently for 20 minutes; rub down the curry-powder and flour with a little of the gravy, quite smoothly, and stir this to the other ingredients; simmer for rather more than 1/2 hour, and just before serving, add the above proportion of hot cream and lemon-juice. Serve with boiled rice, which may either be heaped lightly on a dish by itself, or put round the curry as a border.
Mode.—Put the butter in a saucepan along with the sliced onions, the chicken cut into small pieces, and the apple peeled, cored, and chopped. Fry until it's a light brown, then add the stock and simmer gently for 20 minutes; mix the curry powder and flour with a little of the gravy until smooth, and stir this into the other ingredients; let it simmer for a bit more than 30 minutes, and just before serving, add the hot cream and lemon juice. Serve with boiled rice, which can be either piled up on a dish by itself, or placed around the curry as a border.
Time.—50 minutes.
Time.—50 mins.
Average cost, 3s. 3d.
Average cost, £0.16.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Good for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable in the winter.
Winter appropriate.
Note.—This curry may be made of cold chicken, but undressed meat will be found far superior.
Note.—You can make this curry with cold chicken, but unseasoned meat will be much better.
THE POLAND.—This bird, a native of Holland, is a great favourite with fowl-keepers, especially those who have on eye to profit rather than to amusement. Those varieties known as the "silver spangled" and the "gold spangled" are handsome enough to please the most fastidious; but the common black breed, with the bushy crown of white feathers, is but a plain bird. The chief value of the common Poland lies in the great number of eggs they produce; indeed, in many parts, they are as well known as "everlasting layers" as by their proper name. However, the experienced breeder would take good care to send the eggs of his everlasting layers to market, and not use them for home consumption, as, although they may be as large as those laid by other hens, the amount of nutriment contained in them is not nearly so great. Mr. Mowbray once kept an account of the number of eggs produced by this prolific bird, with the following result:—From the 25th of October to the 25th of the following September five hens laid 503 eggs; the average weight of each egg was one ounce five drachms, and the total weight of the whole, exclusive of the shells, 50-1/4 pounds. Taking the weight of the birds at the fair average of five pounds each, we thus see them producing within a year double their weight of egg alone; and, supposing every egg to contain a chick, and allowing the chick to, grow, in less than eighteen months from the laying of the first egg, two thousand five hundred pounds of chicken-meat would be the result. The Poland is easily fattened, and its flesh is generally considered juicier and of richer flavour than most others.
THE POLAND.—This bird, native to Holland, is a favorite among poultry keepers, especially those focused on profit rather than just for fun. The varieties known as the "silver spangled" and the "gold spangled" are attractive enough to satisfy even the pickiest buyers; however, the common black breed, with its bushy crown of white feathers, is rather plain. The main value of the common Poland lies in the large number of eggs they produce; in fact, in many areas, they are just as well-known as "everlasting layers" as they are by their proper name. However, a seasoned breeder would make sure to sell the eggs from these everlasting layers instead of using them at home, since, although they may be as large as those laid by other hens, they don’t contain nearly as much nutrition. Mr. Mowbray once tracked the egg production of this prolific bird, and the results were as follows: From October 25th to September 25th of the following year, five hens laid 503 eggs; the average weight of each egg was one ounce five drachms, and the total weight of all the eggs, excluding the shells, was 50-1/4 pounds. If we take the average weight of the birds to be five pounds each, we see they produced double their weight in eggs within a year. If we assume every egg contained a chick, and that chick grew up, in less than eighteen months from the laying of the first egg, two thousand five hundred pounds of chicken meat could result. The Poland is easy to fatten, and its meat is generally considered juicier and more flavorful than most others.
[Illustration: SPANGLED POLANDS.]
[Illustration: SPANGLED POLANDS.]
CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cookery).
CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cooking).
942. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowls, 2 large onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
942. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chickens, 2 large onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessert spoon of curry powder, 1 teaspoon of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—Slice the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut the fowl into neat joints; fry these in the butter of a nice brown; then add the curry-powder, flour, and gravy, and stew for about 20 minutes. Put in the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice, either placed in a ridge round the dish or separately. Two or three shallots or a little garlic may be added, if approved.
Mode.—Slice the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut the chicken into neat pieces; fry these in the butter until golden brown; then add the curry powder, flour, and gravy, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, and serve with boiled rice, either arranged around the dish or on the side. You can also add two or three shallots or a little garlic if you like.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour. Av. cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6d.
Time.—Total: 30 minutes. Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 6d.
Seasonable in the winter.
Seasonal in the winter.
[Illustration: COCHIN-CHINAS.]
[Illustration: COCHIN-CHINAS.]
THE COCHIN-CHINA.—About fifteen years ago, the arrival of this distinguished Asiatic created in England as great a sensation as might be expected from the landing of an invading host. The first pair that ever made their appearance here were natives of Shanghai, and were presented to the queen, who exhibited them at the Dublin poultry-show of 1818. Then began the "Cochin" furor. As soon as it was discovered, despite the most strenuous endeavours to keep the tremendous secret, that a certain dealer was possessed of a pair of these birds, straightway the avenues to that dealer's shop were blocked by broughams, and chariots, and hack cabs, until the shy poulterer had been tempted by a sufficiently high sum to part with his treasure. Bank-notes were exchanged for Cochin chicks, and Cochin eggs were in as great demand as though they had been laid by the fabled golden goose. The reign of the Cochin China was, however, of inconsiderable duration. The bird that, in 1847, would fetch thirty guineas, is now counted but ordinary chicken-meat, and its price is regulated according to its weight when ready for the spit. As for the precious buff eggs, against which, one time of day, guineas were weighed,—send for sixpenn'orth at the cheesemonger's, and you will get at least five; which is just as it should be. For elegance of shape or quality of flesh, the Cochin cannot for a moment stand comparison with our handsome dunghill; neither can the indescribable mixture of growling and braying, peculiar to the former, vie with the musical trumpeting of our own morning herald: yet our poultry-breeders have been immense gainers by the introduction of the ungainly celestial, inasmuch as new blood has been infused into the English chicken family. Of this incalculable advantage we may be sure; while, as to the Cochin's defects, they are certain to be lost in the process of "cross and cross" breeding.
THE COCHIN-CHINA.—About fifteen years ago, the arrival of this renowned Asian breed caused a sensation in England comparable to that of an invading army. The first pair to show up here were from Shanghai and were presented to the queen, who showcased them at the Dublin poultry show in 1818. This sparked the "Cochin" craze. Once it was revealed—despite efforts to keep it secret—that a certain dealer had a pair of these birds, the roads to his shop were quickly filled with carriages and cabs until the reluctant seller was offered enough money to let go of his prize. Banknotes were traded for Cochin chicks, and Cochin eggs were in such high demand that they might as well have been laid by a mythical golden goose. However, the popularity of the Cochin China didn't last long. The bird that would fetch thirty guineas in 1847 is now just regular chicken and is priced according to its weight when ready for cooking. As for those precious buff eggs, once worth their weight in guineas—now you can get at least five for sixpence at the cheesemonger, which seems fair. In terms of shape and meat quality, the Cochin can't compare to our lovely backyard chickens, nor can its strange mix of growls and brays compete with the melodic calls of our morning roosters. Yet, poultry breeders have greatly benefited from the introduction of this awkward Asian breed, as it has brought in new genetics to the English chicken lineage. We can be sure of this immense advantage, while the Cochin's shortcomings will inevitably fade through "cross and cross" breeding.
BOILED FOWLS A LA BECHAMEL.
943. INGREDIENTS.—A pair of fowls, 1 pint of Béchamel, No, 367, a few bunches of boiled brocoli or cauliflower.
943. INGREDIENTS.—A pair of chickens, 1 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, a few bunches of boiled broccoli or cauliflower.
Mode.—Truss and boil the fowls by recipe No. 938; make a pint of Béchamel sauce by recipe No. 367; pour some of this over the fowls, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with bunches of boiled cauliflowers or brocoli, and serve very hot. The sauce should be made sufficiently thick to adhere to the fowls; that for the tureen should be thinned by adding a spoonful or two of stock.
Mode.—Truss and boil the chickens using recipe No. 938; prepare a pint of Béchamel sauce according to recipe No. 367; pour some of this sauce over the chickens, and serve the rest in a tureen. Garnish the dish with clusters of boiled cauliflower or broccoli, and serve very hot. The sauce for the chickens should be thick enough to stick to them; the sauce for the tureen should be thin by adding a spoonful or two of stock.
Time.—From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size.
Time.—From 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on size.
Average cost, in full season, 5s. a pair.
Average cost, during the full season, 5 shillings a pair.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.
Available all year round, but rare in early spring.
SPACE FOR FOWLS.—We are no advocates for converting the domestic fowl into a cage-bird. We have known amateur fowl-keepers—worthy souls, who would butter the very barley they gave their pets, if they thought they would the more enjoy it—coop up a male bird and three or four hens in an ordinary egg-chest placed on its side, and with the front closely barred with iron hooping! This system will not do. Every animal, from man himself to the guinea-pig, must have what is vulgarly, but truly, known as "elbow-room;" and it must be self-evident how emphatically this rule applies to winged animals. It may be urged, in the case of domestic fowls, that from constant disuse, and from clipping and plucking, and other sorts of maltreatment, their wings can hardly be regarded as instruments of flight; we maintain, however, that you may pluck a fowl's wing-joints as bare as a pumpkin, but you will not erase from his memory that he is a fowl, and that his proper sphere is the open air. If he likewise reflects that he is an ill-used fowl—a prison-bird—he will then come to the conclusion, that there is not the least use, under such circumstances, for his existence; and you must admit that the decision is only logical and natural.
SPACE FOR FOWLS.—We don't support turning domestic chickens into caged birds. We've seen amateur chicken-keepers—good-hearted people who would even butter the barley they give their pets if they thought it would make them happier—cram a rooster and three or four hens into a regular egg box laid on its side, with the front tightly barred with iron hoops! This approach is not acceptable. Every animal, from humans to guinea pigs, needs what is commonly referred to as "elbow room," and it should be obvious how strongly this applies to birds. It might be suggested that domestic chickens, due to lack of use, trimming, and mistreatment, can hardly be considered capable of flight; however, we argue that you can strip a chicken's wing joints bare, but you won't erase from its memory that it is a chicken and that its rightful place is outdoors. If it also realizes it is a mistreated bird—an inmate—it will logically conclude that its existence serves no purpose in such a situation, and you have to admit that this conclusion is only natural and reasonable.
BOILED FOWL, with Oysters.
Boiled chicken with oysters.
(Excellent.)
(Awesome.)
944. INGREDIENTS.—1 young fowl, 3 dozen oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream.
944. INGREDIENTS.—1 young chicken, 36 oysters, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream.
Mode.—Truss a young fowl as for boiling; fill the inside with oysters which have been bearded and washed in their own liquor; secure the ends of the fowl, put it into a jar, and plunge the jar into a saucepan of boiling water. Keep it boiling for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer; then take the gravy that has flowed from the oysters and fowl, of which there will be a good quantity; stir in the cream and yolks of eggs, add a few oysters scalded in their liquor; let the sauce get quite hot, but do not allow it to boil; pour some of it over the fowl, and the remainder send to table in a tureen. A blade of pounded mace added to the sauce, with the cream and eggs, will be found an improvement.
Mode.—Prepare a young chicken as if you're going to boil it; stuff the inside with cleaned oysters that have been rinsed in their own juice; secure the ends of the chicken, place it in a jar, and submerge the jar in a pot of boiling water. Keep it boiling for 1.5 hours, or a bit longer; then take the gravy that has come from the oysters and chicken, which will be plentiful; mix in cream and egg yolks, add a few oysters heated in their juice; let the sauce get hot, but don’t let it boil; pour some of it over the chicken, and serve the rest in a tureen. Adding a bit of crushed mace to the sauce, along with the cream and eggs, will enhance the flavor.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 4s. 6d.
Duration.—1.5 hours. Average cost, £4.60.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from September to April.
Seasonal from September to April.
THE FOWL-HOUSE.—In building a fowl-house, take care that it be, if possible, built against a wall or fence that faces the south, and thus insure its inmates against many cold winds, driving rains, and sleets they will otherwise suffer. Let the floor of the house slope half an inch to the foot from back to front, so as to insure drainage; let it also be close, hard, and perfectly smooth; so that it may be cleanly swept out. A capital plan is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth, spread it over the floor, and pay a paviour's labourer a trifle to hammer it level with his rammer. The fowl-house should be seven feet high, and furnished with perches at least two feet apart. The perches must be level, and not one above the other, or unpleasant consequences may ensue to the undermost row. The perches should be ledged (not fixed—just dropped into sockets, that they may be easily taken out and cleaned) not lower than five feet from the ground, convenient slips of wood being driven into the wall, to render the ascent as easy as possible. The front of the fowl-house should be latticed, taking care that the interstices be not wide enough even to tempt a chick to crawl through. Nesting-boxes, containing soft hay, and fitted against the walls, so as to be easily reached by the perch-ladder, should be supplied. It will be as well to keep by you a few portable doors, so that you may hang one before the entrance to a nesting-box, when the hen goes in to sit. This will prevent other hens from intruding, a habit to which some are much addicted.
THE FOWL-HOUSE.—When building a chicken coop, make sure it’s positioned against a wall or fence that faces the south to protect the birds from cold winds, driving rain, and sleet. The floor should slope half an inch for every foot from back to front for proper drainage and must be solid, hard, and perfectly smooth for easy cleaning. A great idea is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth, spread it over the floor, and pay a laborer to compact it level with a tamper. The coop should be seven feet high and have perches at least two feet apart. The perches need to be level, not stacked on top of each other, or it can create problems for those on the bottom. The perches should be secured in place (just resting in sockets for easy removal and cleaning), no lower than five feet from the ground, with wooden steps driven into the wall to make climbing easy. The front of the coop should have a lattice design, ensuring the gaps are narrow enough that even a chick can't squeeze through. Provide nesting boxes filled with soft hay, positioned against the walls for easy access from the perch ladder. It’s also a good idea to have a few portable doors on hand so you can hang one in front of a nesting box when a hen goes in to lay eggs. This prevents other hens from bothering her, as some can be quite intrusive.
FRICASSEED FOWL OR CHICKEN (an Entree).
FRICASSEED FOWL OR CHICKEN (an Entree).
945. INGREDIENTS.—2 small fowls or 1 large one, 3 oz. of butter, a bunch of parsley and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, 1 shalot, 1 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs.
945. INGREDIENTS.—2 small chickens or 1 large one, 3 oz. of butter, a bunch of parsley and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, 1 shallot, 1 bay leaf, salt and white pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs.
Mode.—Choose a couple of fat plump chickens, and, after drawing, singeing, and washing them, skin, and carve them into joints; blanch these in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes; take them out, and immerse them in cold water to render them white. Put the trimmings, with the necks and legs, into a stewpan; add the parsley, onions, clove, mace, shalot, bay-leaf, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour to these the water that the chickens were blanched in, and simmer gently for rather more than 1 hour. Have ready another stewpan; put in the joints of fowl, with the above proportion of butter; dredge them with flour, let them get hot, but do not brown them much; then moisten the fricassee with the gravy made from the trimmings, &c., and stew very gently for 1/2 hour. Lift the fowl into another stewpan, skim the sauce, reduce it quickly over the fire, by letting it boil fast, and strain it over them. Add the cream, and a seasoning of pounded mace and cayenne; let it boil up, and when ready to serve, stir to it the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs: these should not be put in till the last moment, and the sauce should be made hot, but must not boil, or it will instantly curdle. A few button-mushrooms stewed with the fowl are by many persons considered an improvement.
Mode.—Choose a couple of plump chickens, and after plucking, singeing, and washing them, skin and cut them into pieces; blanch these in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes; take them out and immerse them in cold water to make them white. Put the trimmings, along with the necks and legs, into a pot; add the parsley, onions, clove, mace, shallot, bay leaf, and a pinch of pepper and salt; pour in the water that you used to blanch the chickens, and let it simmer gently for a little over an hour. Have another pot ready; add the chicken pieces, along with the appropriate amount of butter; sprinkle them with flour, let them heat up, but don’t let them brown too much; then moisten the fricassee with the gravy made from the trimmings, and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Transfer the chicken to another pot, skim the sauce, and reduce it quickly over the heat by letting it boil vigorously, then strain it over the chicken. Add the cream and a seasoning of ground mace and cayenne pepper; let it come to a boil, and when ready to serve, stir in the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs: these should be added only at the last moment, and the sauce should be made hot, but must not boil, or it will curdle immediately. A few button mushrooms cooked with the chicken are considered an enhancement by many.
Time.—1 hour to make the gravy, 1/2 hour to simmer the fowl.
Time.—1 hour to make the gravy, 30 minutes to simmer the chicken.
Average cost, 5s. the pair.
Average cost, 5s. per pair.
Sufficient.—1 large fowl for one entrée.
Sufficient.—1 large chicken for one main dish.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
STOCKING THE FOWL-HOUSE.—Take care that the birds with which you stock your house are young. The surest indications of old age are fading of the comb and gills from brilliant red to a dingy brick-colour, general paleness of plumage, brittleness of the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the scales of the legs and feet assuming a ragged and corny appearance. Your cock and hens should be as near two years old as possible. Hens will lay at a year old, but the eggs are always insignificant in size, and the layers giddy and unsteady sitters. The hen-bird is in her prime for breeding at three years old, and will continue so, under favourable circumstances, for two years longer; after which she will decline. Crowing hens, and those that have large combs, are generally looked on with mistrust; but this is mere silliness and superstition—though it is possible that a spruce young cock would as much object to a spouse with such peculiar addictions, as a young fellow of our own species would to a damsel who whistled and who wore whiskers. Fowls with yellow legs should be avoided; they are generally of a tender constitution, loose-fleshed, and of indifferent flavour.
STOCKING THE FOWL-HOUSE.—Make sure the birds you choose for your coop are young. The clearest signs of old age are the fading of the comb and wattles from bright red to a dull brick color, a general paleness in their feathers, brittle plumage, long and large claws, and the scales on their legs and feet looking ragged and corny. Your rooster and hens should ideally be as close to two years old as possible. Hens can start laying eggs at one year old, but those eggs are usually small, and the birds tend to be flighty and unsteady sitters. A hen is in her prime for breeding at three years old, and will remain that way, given the right conditions, for another two years; after that, her productivity will decrease. Crowing hens and those with large combs are often viewed with suspicion, but that's just silly superstition—though it might be true that a dapper young rooster would prefer not to mate with a hen that has such unusual traits, just as a young man might shy away from a girl who whistles and has facial hair. Avoid chickens with yellow legs; they often have a delicate constitution, are loose-fleshed, and don't taste very good.
FRICASSEED FOWL (Cold Meat Cookery).
FRICASSEE CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cookery).
946. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, popper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs.
946. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast chicken, 1 strip of lemon peel, 1 blade of ground mace, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoon of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Carve the fowls into nice joints; make gravy of the trimmings and legs, by stewing them with the lemon-peel, mace, herbs, onion, seasoning, and water, until reduced to 1/2 pint; then strain, and put in the fowl. Warm it through, and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour; stir the yolks of the eggs into the cream; add these to the sauce, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle.
Method.—Cut the birds into nice pieces; make gravy from the trimmings and legs by simmering them with lemon peel, mace, herbs, onion, seasoning, and water until it reduces to 1/2 pint; then strain and add the bird. Heat it up, and thicken with a teaspoon of flour; mix the egg yolks with the cream; add these to the sauce, heat it thoroughly, but don't let it boil, or it will curdle.
Time.—1 hour to make the gravy, 1/4 hour to warm the fowl.
Time.—1 hour to prepare the gravy, 15 minutes to warm the chicken.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d.
Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
CHARACTERISTICS OF HEALTH AND POWER.—The chief characteristics of health in a fowl are brightness and dryness of eye and nostrils, the comb and wattles firm and ruddy, the feathers elastic and glossy. The most useful cock is generally the greatest tyrant, who struts among his hens despotically, with his head erect and his eyes ever watchful. There is likely to be handsomer and stronger chicks in a house where a bold, active—even savage—bird reigns, than where the lord of the hen-house is a weak, meek creature, who bears the abuse and peckings of his wives without a remonstrance. I much prefer dark-coloured cock-birds to those of light plumage. A cock, to be handsome, should be of middling size; his bill should be short, comb bright-red, wattles large, breast broad, and wings strong. His head should be rather small than otherwise, his legs short and sturdy, and his spurs well-formed; his feathers should be short and close, and the more frequently and heartily he crows, the better father he is likely to become. The common error of choosing hens above the ordinary stature of their respective varieties should be avoided, as the best breeding-hens are those of medium size.
CHARACTERISTICS OF HEALTH AND POWER.—The main signs of health in a bird are bright, dry eyes and nostrils, a firm and vibrant comb and wattles, and feathers that are elastic and shiny. The most useful rooster is usually the biggest bully, strutting among his hens like a dictator, with his head held high and his eyes always alert. You're likely to have healthier and stronger chicks in a place where a bold, active—even aggressive—bird is in charge, than where the ruler of the coop is a weak, timid creature who tolerates the pecking and bullying from his hens without a complaint. I much prefer dark-colored roosters over those with light plumage. A rooster should be of medium size to be attractive; he should have a short beak, a bright-red comb, large wattles, a broad chest, and strong wings. His head should be somewhat small, his legs short and sturdy, and his spurs well-formed; his feathers should be short and close, and the more often and enthusiastically he crows, the better father he is likely to be. Common mistakes include choosing hens that are taller than normal for their breed, as the best breeding hens are those of medium size.
FRIED FOWLS (Cold Meat Cookery).
FRIED CHICKEN (Cold Meat Cookery).
I.
947. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 or 4 minced shalots. For the batter,—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of hot water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs.
947. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast chicken, vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 or 4 minced shallots. For the batter,—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of hot water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Cut the fowl into nice joints; steep them for an hour in a little vinegar, with salt, cayenne, and minced shalots. Make the batter by mixing the flour and water smoothly together; melt in it the butter, and add the whites of egg beaten to a froth; take out the pieces of fowl, dip them in the batter, and fry, in boiling lard, a nice brown. Pile them high in the dish, and garnish with fried parsley or rolled bacon. When approved, a sauce or gravy may be served with them.
Method.—Cut the chicken into nice pieces; soak them for an hour in a little vinegar, along with salt, cayenne pepper, and minced shallots. Make the batter by mixing the flour and water together until smooth; melt in the butter, and add the egg whites beaten until frothy. Remove the chicken pieces, dip them in the batter, and fry in hot lard until golden brown. Stack them high on a plate and garnish with fried parsley or crispy bacon. If desired, you can serve a sauce or gravy with them.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the fowl.
Time.—10 minutes to cook the chicken.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 8d.
Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
CHANTICLEER AND HIS COMPANIONS.—On bringing the male and female birds together for the first time, it will be necessary to watch the former closely, as it is a very common occurrence with him to conceive a sudden and violent dislike for one or more of his wives, and not allow the obnoxious ones to approach within some distance of the others; indeed, I know many cases where the capricious tyrant has set upon the innocent cause of his resentment and killed her outright. In all such cases, the hen objected to should be removed and replaced by another. If the cock should, by any accident, get killed, considerable delicacy is required in introducing a new one. The hens may mope, and refuse to associate with their new husband, clustering in corners, and making odious comparisons between him and the departed; or the cock may have his own peculiar notions as to what a wife should be, and be by no means satisfied with those you have provided him. The plan is, to keep him by himself nearly the whole day, supplying him plentifully with exhilarating food, then to turn him loose among the hens, and to continue this practice, allowing him more of the society of his wives each day, until you suffer him to abide with them altogether.
CHANTICLEER AND HIS COMPANIONS.—When introducing male and female birds for the first time, it’s important to keep a close eye on the male. He often develops a sudden and intense dislike for one or more of his hens, preventing the disliked ones from coming near the others. In fact, I know of many instances where this unpredictable tyrant has attacked the innocent hen he resented and killed her. In such cases, the hen in question should be removed and replaced with another. If, by chance, the male bird gets killed, care must be taken when introducing a new one. The hens might sulk and refuse to accept their new mate, huddling in corners and making unpleasant comparisons to the one who is gone; or the new male might have his own ideas about what a mate should be and may not be happy with the hens provided for him. The strategy is to keep him by himself most of the day, giving him plenty of nutritious food, then gradually introduce him to the hens, increasing his time with them each day until he can stay with them completely.
II.
948. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste, 4 minced shalots, yolk of egg; to every teacupful of bread crumbs allow 1 blade of pounded mace, 5 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne.
948. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chicken, vinegar, salt, and cayenne to taste, 4 chopped shallots, egg yolk; for every teacup of bread crumbs, add 1 blade of crushed mace, 5 teaspoons of chopped lemon peel, 1 salt spoon of salt, and a pinch of cayenne.
Mode.—Steep the pieces of fowl as in the preceding recipe, then dip them into the yolk of an egg or clarified butter; sprinkle over bread crumbs with which have been mixed salt, mace, cayenne, and lemon-peel in the above proportion. Fry a light brown, and serve with or without gravy, as may be preferred.
Method.—Soak the pieces of chicken like in the previous recipe, then dip them in egg yolk or melted butter; coat with breadcrumbs mixed with salt, mace, cayenne pepper, and lemon zest in the specified amounts. Fry until light brown and serve with or without gravy, according to your preference.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the fowl.
Time.—10 minutes to cook the chicken.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6d.
Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
VARIOUS MODES OF FATTENING FOWLS.—It would, I think, be a difficult matter to find, among the entire fraternity of fowl-keepers, a dozen whose mode of fattening "stock" is the same. Some say that the grand f secret is to give them abundance of saccharine food; others say nothing beats heavy corn steeped in milk; while another breeder, celebrated in his day, and the recipient of a gold medal from a learned society, says, "The best method is as follows:-The chickens are to be taken from the hen the night after they are hatched, and fed with eggs hard-boiled, chopped, and mixed with crumbs of bread, as larks and other small birds are fed, for the first fortnight; after which give them oatmeal and treacle mixed so as to crumble, of which the chickens are very fond, and thrive so fast that, at the end of two months, they will be as large as full-grown fowls." Others there are who insist that nothing beats oleaginous diet, and cram their birds with ground oats and suet. But, whatever the course of diet favoured, on one point they seem agreed; and that is, that, while fattening, the fowls should be kept in the dark. Supposing the reader to be a dealer—a breeder of gross chicken meat for the market (against which supposition the chances are 10,000 to 1), and beset with as few scruples as generally trouble the huckster, the advice is valuable. "Laugh and grow fat" is a good maxim enough; but "Sleep and grow fat" is, as is well known to folks of porcine attributes, a better. The poor birds, immured in their dark dungeons, ignorant that there is life and sunshine abroad, tuck their heads under their wings and make a long night of it; while their digestive organs, having no harder work than to pile up fat, have an easy time enough. But, unless we are mistaken, he who breeds poultry for his own eating, bargains for a more substantial reward than the questionable pleasure of burying his carving-knife in chicken grease. Tender, delicate, and nutritious flesh is the great aim; and these qualities, I can affirm without fear of contradiction, were never attained by a dungeon-fatted chicken: perpetual gloom and darkness is as incompatible with chicken life as it is with human. If you wish to be convinced of the absurdity of endeavouring to thwart nature's laws, plant a tuft of grass, or a cabbage-plant, in the darkest corner of your coal-cellar. The plant or the tuft may increase in length and breadth, but its colour will be as wan and pale, almost, as would be your own face under the circumstances.
VARIOUS MODES OF FATTENING FOWLS. — I think it would be hard to find even a dozen bird keepers who all fatten their "stock" the same way. Some claim that the key is to feed them plenty of sugary food; others argue that nothing is better than heavy corn soaked in milk. Another well-known breeder, who once received a gold medal from a prestigious society, says, "The best method is this: Take the chicks from the hen the night after they hatch and feed them hard-boiled eggs, chopped and mixed with breadcrumbs, just like you would feed larks and other small birds, for the first two weeks. After that, give them oatmeal mixed with treacle so it crumbles, which the chicks really like, and they will grow so quickly that by the end of two months, they will be as large as adult birds." There are also those who swear by fatty diets, stuffing their birds with ground oats and suet. But no matter what diet they prefer, they all seem to agree on one point: the fowls should be kept in the dark. If we assume you are a dealer—a breeder of plump chicken for the market (though the odds are 10,000 to 1 against that), and have as few scruples as most sellers do, this advice is useful. "Laugh and grow fat" is a nice saying, but "Sleep and grow fat" is, as those with pig-like attributes know well, even better. The poor birds, confined in their dark quarters, unaware of the life and sunshine outside, tuck their heads under their wings and settle in for a long night; meanwhile, their digestive systems have an easy job of just storing fat. However, unless we're mistaken, someone who raises poultry for personal consumption is looking for a more rewarding payoff than just the dubious pleasure of cutting into a greasy chicken. Tender, delicate, and nutritious meat is the ultimate goal; and I can say with confidence that these qualities are never achieved by birds fattened in darkness: constant gloom and shadows are just as unsuitable for chickens as they are for humans. If you want to see how silly it is to go against nature, plant a patch of grass or a cabbage in the darkest corner of your basement. The plant or the patch might grow taller and wider, but its color will be as pale and wan as your own face would be under the same conditions.
POULET A LA MARENGO.
949. INGREDIENTS.—1 large fowl, 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, about 20 mushroom-buttons, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a very small piece of garlic.
949. INGREDIENTS.—1 large chicken, 4 tablespoons of salad oil, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, about 20 mushroom caps, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, a very small piece of garlic.
Mode.—Cut the fowl into 8 or 10 pieces; put them with the oil into a stewpan, and brown them over a moderate fire; dredge in the above proportion of flour; when that is browned, pour in the stock or water; let it simmer very slowly for rather more than 1/2 hour, and skim off the fat as it rises to the top; add the mushrooms; season with salt, pepper, garlic, and sugar; take out the fowl, which arrange pyramidically on the dish, with the inferior joints at the bottom. Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly over the fire, keeping it stirred until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of a spoon; pour over the fowl, and serve.
Method.—Cut the chicken into 8 or 10 pieces; place them with the oil in a pot, and brown them over moderate heat; sprinkle in the amount of flour mentioned above; once that's browned, pour in the stock or water; let it simmer very slowly for a little over 30 minutes, skimming off the fat as it rises to the top; add the mushrooms; season with salt, pepper, garlic, and sugar; remove the chicken, arranging it in a pyramid on the dish, with the smaller pieces at the bottom. Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly while stirring until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a spoon; pour it over the chicken and serve.
Time.—Altogether 50 minutes. Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Time.—Total of 50 minutes. Average cost, £0.17.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
A FOWL À LA MARENGO.—The following is the origin of the well-known dish Poulet à la Marengo:—On the evening of the battle the first consul was very hungry after the agitation of the day, and a fowl was ordered with all expedition. The fowl was procured, but there was no butter at hand, and unluckily none could be found in the neighbourhood. There was oil in abundance, however; and the cook having poured a certain quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, with a clove of garlic and other seasoning, with a little white wine, the best the country afforded; he then garnished it with mushrooms, and served it up hot. This dish proved the second conquest of the day, as the first consul found it most agreeable to his palate, and expressed his satisfaction. Ever since, a fowl à la Marengo is a favourite dish with all lovers of good cheer.
A CHICKEN À LA MARENGO.—Here’s how the famous dish Poulet à la Marengo came to be: On the evening of the battle, the first consul was really hungry after the excitement of the day, so a chicken was ordered quickly. The chicken was obtained, but there was no butter available, and unfortunately, none could be found nearby. There was plenty of oil, though; the cook poured some into his skillet, added the chicken, a clove of garlic, and other seasonings, along with a bit of the best white wine from the area; then he topped it off with mushrooms and served it hot. This dish turned out to be the second victory of the day, as the first consul found it very pleasing to his taste and expressed his satisfaction. Since then, chicken à la Marengo has been a favorite dish among all those who enjoy good food.
MINCED FOWL A LA BECHAMEL.
950. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 6 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce No. 367, 6 tablespoonfuls of white stock No. 107, the white of 1 egg, bread crumbs, clarified butter.
950. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roasted chicken, 6 tablespoons of Béchamel sauce No. 367, 6 tablespoons of white stock No. 107, the white of 1 egg, bread crumbs, clarified butter.
Mode.—Take the remains of roast fowls, mince the white meat very small, and put it into a stewpan with the Béchamel and stock; stir it well over the fire, and just let it boil up. Pour the mince into a dish, beat up the white of egg, spread it over, and strew on it a few grated bread crumbs; pour a very little clarified butter on the whole, and brown either before the fire or with a salamander. This should be served in a silver dish, if at hand.
Mode.—Take the leftovers from roast chicken, chop the white meat into tiny pieces, and put it in a saucepan with the Béchamel sauce and stock; stir it well on the stove and bring it to a gentle boil. Pour the mixture into a dish, whip the egg white, spread it over the top, and sprinkle a few grated breadcrumbs on it; drizzle a little clarified butter over everything, and brown it either in front of the fire or under a salamander. This should be served in a silver dish, if available.
Time.—2 or 3 minutes to simmer in the sauce.
Time.—Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes in the sauce.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
THE BEST WAY TO FATTEN FOWLS.—The barn-door fowl is in itself a complete refutation of the cramming and dungeon policy of feeding practised by some. This fowl, which has the common run of the farm-yard, living on dairy-scraps and offal from the stable, begins to grow fat at threshing-time. He has his fill of the finest corn; he has his fill of fresh air and natural exercise, and at last he comes smoking to the table,—a dish for the gods. In the matter of unnaturally stuffing and confining fowls, Mowbray is exactly of our opinion. He says: "The London chicken-butchers, as they are termed, are said to be, of all others, the most expeditious and dexterous feeders, putting up a coop of fowls, and making them thoroughly fat within the space of a fortnight, using much grease, and that perhaps not of the most delicate kind, in the food. In this way I have no boasts to make, having always found it necessary to allow a considerable number of weeks for the purpose of making fowls fat in coops. In the common way this business is often badly managed, fowls being huddled together in a small coop, tearing each other to pieces, instead of enjoying that repose which alone can insure, the wished-for object—irregularly fed and cleaned, until they become so stenched and poisoned in their own excrement, that their flesh actually smells and tastes when smoking upon the table." Sussex produces the fattest and largest poultry of any county in England, and the fatting process there most common is to give them a gruel made of pot-liquor and bruised oats, with which are mixed hog's grease, sugar, and milk. The fowls are kept very warm, and crammed morning and night. They are put into the coop, and kept there two or three days before the cramming begins, and then it is continued for a fortnight, and the birds are sent to market.
THE BEST WAY TO FATTEN FOWLS.—The barnyard chicken completely disproves the cramming and confinement feeding methods used by some. This chicken, which roams the typical farmyard, eats dairy scraps and leftover food from the stable, and starts to fatten up around harvest time. It gets plenty of the best corn, fresh air, and natural exercise, and ultimately ends up on the table—an amazing dish. On the topic of unnaturally stuffing and keeping chickens confined, Mowbray shares our view. He states: "The London chicken butchers, as they're called, are reportedly the fastest and most skilled feeders, fattening a coop of chickens in just two weeks, using a lot of grease, often of questionable quality, in their feed. Personally, I don't have any claims to make, as I've always found it necessary to take several weeks to fatten chickens in coops. Typically, this process is poorly managed, with chickens crammed together in a small space, injuring one another instead of resting peacefully, which is essential for the desired result—often irregularly fed and cleaned, until they're so contaminated by their own waste that their meat has an unpleasant odor and taste when served." Sussex produces the largest and fattest poultry of any county in England, and the common method there for fattening involves feeding them a gruel made of leftover cooking liquid and crushed oats, mixed with pig fat, sugar, and milk. The chickens are kept warm and fed excessively morning and night. They are placed in the coop and kept there for two or three days before the feeding starts, which continues for two weeks before the birds are sent to market.
RAGOUT OF FOWL.
951. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowls, 3 shalots, 2 blades of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 or three slices of lean ham, 1 pint of stock or water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of butter.
951. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chickens, 3 shallots, 2 blades of mace, a bundle of savory herbs, 2 or 3 slices of lean ham, 1 pint of stock or water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon of crushed sugar, 1 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Cut the fowls up into neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee; put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots, mace, herbs, ham, onion, and stock (water may be substituted for this). Boil it slowly for 1 hour, strain the liquor, and put a small piece of butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry up the butter, and stir it over the fire. Put in the strained liquor, boil for a few minutes, and strain it again over the pieces of fowl. Squeeze in the lemon-juice, add the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and salt, make it hot, but do not allow it to boil; lay the fowl neatly on the dish, and garnish with croûtons.
Method.—Cut the chickens into neat pieces, just like you would for a fricassee; put the scraps into a pot with the shallots, mace, herbs, ham, onion, and stock (you can use water instead). Let it simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain the liquid, and put a small piece of butter in a pot; when it melts, sprinkle in enough flour to absorb the butter and stir it over the heat. Add the strained liquid, boil for a few minutes, and strain it again over the pieces of chicken. Squeeze in the lemon juice, add the sugar and a pinch of pepper and salt, heat it up, but don’t let it boil; place the chicken neatly on a plate, and garnish with croutons.
Time.—Altogether 1-1/2 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 9d.
Time.—Total 1.5 hours. Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 9d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
THE BEST FOWLS TO FATTEN, &c.—The chicks most likely to fatten well are those first hatched in the brood, and those with the shortest legs. Long-legged fowls, as a rule, are by far the most difficult to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which are put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them; for, as says an old writer, "then they will be in fine condition, and full of flesh, which flesh is afterwards expended in the exercise of foraging for food, and in the increase of stature; and it may be a work of some weeks to recover it,—especially with young cocks." But whether you take them in hand as chicks, or not till they are older, the three prime rules to be observed are, sound and various food, warmth, and cleanliness. There is nothing that a fatting fowl grows so fastidious about as his water. If water any way foul be offered him, he will not drink it, but sulk with his food, and pine, and you all the while wondering the reason why. Keep them separate, allowing to each bird as much space as you can spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take care that they are not disturbed. In addition to their regular diet of good corn, make them a cake of ground oats or beans, brown sugar, milk, and mutton suet. Let the cake lie till it is stale, then crumble it, and give each bird a gill-measureful morning and evening. No entire grain should be given to fowls during the time they are fattening; indeed, the secret of success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food without stint, and in such a form that their digestive mills shall find no difficulty in grinding it.
THE BEST BIRDS TO FATTEN, &c.—The chicks that are most likely to fatten well are typically the first ones hatched in the brood and those with shorter legs. Long-legged birds are usually much harder to fatten. The most delicate ones are those taken for fattening right after the hen leaves them; as an old writer says, "then they will be in great condition and full of flesh, which is later used up in searching for food and growing taller; and it may take several weeks to regain it—especially with young roosters." Whether you start with them as chicks or wait until they're older, there are three essential rules to follow: provide good and varied food, ensure warmth, and maintain cleanliness. A fattening bird becomes very particular about its water. If offered dirty water, it won't drink but will sulk with its food and waste away, leaving you to wonder why. Keep them separate, giving each bird as much space as possible. Spread sharp sandy gravel on the ground; make sure they aren't disturbed. Besides their regular diet of good corn, make them a cake of ground oats or beans, brown sugar, milk, and mutton fat. Let the cake sit until it goes stale, then crumble it and give each bird a gill-measureful morning and evening. Do not give entire grains to the birds while they are fattening; the key to success is providing them with the most nutritious food freely and in a form that their digestive systems can easily process.
[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.]
[Illustration: Roast Chicken.]
ROAST FOWLS.
952. INGREDIENTS.—A pair of fowls; a little flour.
952. INGREDIENTS.—A couple of chickens; a bit of flour.
Mode.—Fowls to be tender should be killed a couple of days before they are dressed; when the feathers come out easily, then let them be picked and cooked. In drawing them, be careful not to break the gall-bag, as, wherever it touches, it would impart a very bitter taste; the liver and gizzard should also be preserved. Truss them in the following manner:—After having carefully picked them, cut off the head, and skewer the skin of the neck down over the back. Cut off the claws; dip the legs in boiling water, and scrape them; turn the pinions under, run a skewer through them and the middle of the legs, which should be passed through the body to the pinion and leg on the other side, one skewer securing the limbs on both sides. The liver and gizzard should be placed in the wings, the liver on one side and the gizzard on the other. Tie the legs together by passing a trussing-needle, threaded with twine, through the backbone, and secure it on the other side. If trussed like a capon, the legs are placed more apart. When firmly trussed, singe them all over; put them down to a bright clear fire, paper the breasts with a sheet of buttered paper, and keep the fowls well basted. Roast them for 3/4 hour, more or less, according to the size, and 10 minutes before serving, remove the paper, dredge the fowls with a little fine flour, put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste the fowls with it; when nicely frothed and of a rich colour, serve with good brown gravy, a little of which should be poured over the fowls, and a tureen of well-made bread sauce, No. 371. Mushroom, oyster, or egg sauce are very suitable accompaniments to roast fowl.—Chicken is roasted in the same manner.
Mode.—To ensure that poultry is tender, it should be killed a couple of days before preparation. Once the feathers can be removed easily, they can be picked and cooked. While gutting the bird, be careful not to break the gallbladder, as its contents will make the meat taste very bitter; also, save the liver and gizzard. Truss the bird as follows: After carefully picking it, cut off the head and skewer the skin of the neck down over the back. Remove the claws; dip the legs in boiling water and scrape them. Tuck the wings under the body, run a skewer through the wings and the middle of the legs, which should go through the body to the other side's wing and leg, securing both sides with one skewer. Place the liver and gizzard in the wings, with the liver on one side and the gizzard on the other. Tie the legs together by threading a trussing needle with twine through the backbone and securing it on the other side. If trussed like a capon, the legs will be positioned further apart. Once trussed securely, singe the entire bird; place it over a bright, clear fire, cover the breasts with a piece of buttered paper, and keep the poultry well basted. Roast for about 45 minutes, adjusting time based on size, and 10 minutes before serving, remove the paper, dust the bird with a little fine flour, and add a piece of butter to the basting ladle. As it melts, baste the bird with it; when it has a nice frothy appearance and rich color, serve with good brown gravy, drizzled over the bird, along with a tureen of well-made bread sauce, No. 371. Mushroom, oyster, or egg sauce are great accompaniments for roast poultry.—Chicken is roasted similarly.
Time.—A very large fowl, quite 1 hour, medium-sized one 3/4 hour, chicken 1/2 hour, or rather longer.
Time.—A very large bird takes about 1 hour, a medium-sized one takes about 45 minutes, and a chicken takes about 30 minutes, or maybe a bit longer.
Average cost, in full season, 5s. a pair; when scarce, 7s. 6d. the pair.
Average cost, in full season, 5 shillings a pair; when scarce, 7 shillings 6 pence the pair.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.
Available all year, but rare in early spring.
THE DISEASES OF FOWLS, AND HOW TO CURE THEM.—The diseases to which Gallus domesticus is chiefly liable, are roup, pip, scouring, and chip. The first-mentioned is the most common of all, and results from cold. The ordinary symptoms,—swollen eyes, running at the nostrils, and the purple colour of the wattles. Part birds so affected from the healthy ones, as, when the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders among horses. Wash out the nostrils with warm water, give daily a peppercorn inclosed in dough; bathe the eyes and nostrils with warm milk and water. If the head is much swollen, bathe with warm brandy and water. When the bird is getting well, put half a spoonful of sulphur in his drinking-water. Some fanciers prescribe for this disease half a spoonful of table salt, dissolved in half a gill of water, in which rue has been steeped; others, pills composed of ground rice and fresh butter: but the remedy first mentioned will be found far the best. As there is a doubt respecting the wholesomeness of the eggs laid by roupy hens, it will be as well to throw them away. The pip is a white horny skin growing on the tip of the bird's tongue. It should be removed with the point of a penknife, and the place rubbed with salt.
THE DISEASES OF FOWLS, AND HOW TO CURE THEM.—The diseases that Gallus domesticus is most prone to are roup, pip, scours, and chip. Roup is the most common, usually caused by cold. Typical symptoms include swollen eyes, nasal discharge, and a purplish tint on the wattles. Separate affected birds from the healthy ones, as the disease is highly contagious at its peak, similar to glanders in horses. Rinse the nostrils with warm water, and give a peppercorn wrapped in dough daily; bathe the eyes and nostrils with warm milk and water. If the head is severely swollen, bathe it with warm brandy and water. As the bird starts to recover, add half a spoonful of sulfur to its drinking water. Some breeders recommend half a spoonful of table salt dissolved in half a gill of water steeped with rue; others suggest pills made from ground rice and fresh butter. However, the first remedy is generally the most effective. Since there’s uncertainty about the safety of eggs laid by hens with roup, it’s best to discard them. Pip is a white, hard growth on the tip of the bird's tongue. It should be removed with a penknife and then rubbed with salt.
FOWL AND RICE CROQUETTES (an Entree).
FOWL AND RICE CROQUETTES (an Entrée).
953. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1 quart of stock or broth, 3 oz. of butter, minced fowl, egg, and bread crumbs.
953. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1 quart of stock or broth, 3 oz. of butter, chopped chicken, an egg, and bread crumbs.
Mode.—Put the rice into the above proportion of cold stock or broth, and let it boil very gently for 1/2 hour; then add the butter, and simmer it till quite dry and soft When cold, make it into balls, hollow out the inside, and fill with minced fowl made by recipe No. 956. The mince should be rather thick. Cover over with rice, dip the balls into egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry a nice brown. Dish them, and garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream, may be stirred into the rice before it cools.
Mode.—Place the rice in the specified amount of cold stock or broth, and allow it to simmer gently for 30 minutes; then mix in the butter and cook it until it's completely dry and soft. Once cooled, shape it into balls, hollow out the centers, and fill them with minced chicken prepared according to recipe No. 956. The minced chicken should be fairly thick. Cover the filling with rice, dip the balls in egg, sprinkle them with breadcrumbs, and fry until golden brown. Serve on a plate, garnished with fried parsley. You can also stir in some oysters, white sauce, or a bit of cream into the rice before it cools.
Time.—1/2 hour to boil the rice, 10 minutes to fry the croquettes.
Time.—30 minutes to boil the rice, 10 minutes to fry the croquettes.
Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d.
Average cost, not including the chicken, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
CHIP.—If the birds are allowed to puddle about on wet soil, or to be much out in the rain, they will get "chip." Young chicks are especially liable to this complaint. They will sit shivering in out-of-the-way corners, perpetually uttering a dolorous "chip, chip;" seemingly frozen with cold, though, on handling them, they are found to be in high fever. A wholesale breeder would take no pains to attempt the cure of fowls so afflicted; but they who keep chickens for the pleasure, and not for the profit they yield, will be inclined to recover them if possible. Give them none but warm food, half a peppercorn rolled in a morsel of dough every night, and a little nitre in their water. Above all, keep them warm; a corner in the kitchen fender, for a day or two, will do more to effect a cure than the run of a druggist's warehouse.
CHIP.—If birds are allowed to roam on wet soil or spend too much time in the rain, they can get "chip." Young chicks are especially vulnerable to this issue. They will sit shivering in hidden corners, constantly making a sad "chip, chip" sound; they seem frozen with cold, but when you handle them, you'll find they actually have a high fever. A large-scale breeder wouldn't bother trying to cure chickens with this problem; however, those who keep chickens for enjoyment rather than for profit will likely want to help them recover if they can. Feed them only warm food, give them a half peppercorn mixed in a bit of dough every night, and add a little nitre to their water. Most importantly, keep them warm; a spot by the kitchen fireplace for a day or two will do more for their recovery than anything a pharmacy could provide.
CROQUETTES OF FOWL (an Entree).
Chicken Croquettes (an Entree).
954. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, white sauce; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, the remains of cold roast fowls, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg, and bread crumbs.
954. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 shallots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of flour, white sauce; pepper, salt, and ground mace to taste; 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar, leftover cold roast chicken, the yolks of 2 eggs, and bread crumbs.
Mode.—Mince the fowl, carefully removing all skin and bone, and fry the shalots in the butter; add the minced fowl, dredge in the flour, put in the pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and sufficient white sauce to moisten it; stir to it the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, and set it by to cool. Then make the mixture up into balls, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry a nice brown. They may be served on a border of mashed potatoes, with gravy or sauce in the centre.
Mode.—Chop the chicken, making sure to remove all skin and bones, and sauté the shallots in the butter; then add the chopped chicken, sprinkle with flour, and mix in the pepper, salt, mace, powdered sugar, and enough white sauce to moisten it. Stir in the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs and set aside to cool. Next, shape the mixture into balls, coat them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until they are golden brown. They can be served on a bed of mashed potatoes, with gravy or sauce in the center.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the balls.
Time.—10 minutes to cook the balls.
Seasonable at any time.
Available any time.
THE TURN.—What is termed "turrling" with song-birds, is known, as regard fowls, as the "turn." Its origin is the same in both cases,—over-feeing and want of exercise. Without a moment's warning, a fowl so afflicted will totter and fall from its perch, and unless assistance be at hand, speedily give up the ghost. The veins of the palate should be opened, and a few drops of mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitre and one of ammonia, poured down its throat. I have seen ignorant keepers plunge a bird, stricken with the "turn," into cold water; but I never saw it taken out again alive; and for a good reason: the sudden chill has the effect of driving the blood to the head,—of aggravating the disease indeed, instead of relieving it.
THE TURN.—What is called "turrling" in songbirds is referred to, in the case of fowl, as the "turn." The cause is the same for both situations—overfeeding and lack of exercise. Without any warning, a bird that's affected will stumble and fall from its perch, and unless help is nearby, it will quickly perish. The veins in the palate should be opened, and a few drops of a mixture made of six parts sweet nitre and one part ammonia should be poured down its throat. I've seen untrained keepers plunge a bird suffering from the "turn" into cold water; however, I've never seen one come out alive again, and for a good reason: the sudden chill drives the blood to the head, worsening the condition instead of helping it.
HASHED FOWL—an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).
HASHED FOWL—an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).
955. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 2 or three small carrots, 1 blade of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter and flour, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
955. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roasted chicken, 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 2 or 3 small carrots, 1 blade of crushed mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1 small bunch of savory herbs, a thickener made from butter and flour, and 1½ tablespoons of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut off the best joints from the fowl, and the remainder make into gravy, by adding to the bones and trimmings a pint of water, an onion sliced and fried of a nice brown, the carrots, mace, seasoning, and herbs. Let these stew gently for 1-1/2 hour, strain the liquor, and thicken with a little flour and butter. Lay in the fowl, thoroughly warm it through, add the ketchup, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.
Method.—Remove the best cuts from the chicken, and use the rest to make gravy by adding a pint of water to the bones and trimmings, a sliced onion fried to a nice brown, the carrots, mace, seasoning, and herbs. Let this simmer gently for 1-1/2 hours, strain the liquid, and thicken it with a little flour and butter. Add the chicken back in, warm it through completely, stir in the ketchup, and serve it with pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—Altogether 1-3/4 hour.
Time: 1 hour 45 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 4d.
Average cost, not including the cold chicken, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SKIN-DISEASE IN FOWLS.—Skin-disease is, nine times out of ten, caused by the feathers being swarmed by parasites. Poor feeding will induce this, even if cleanliness be observed; uncleanliness, however liberal the bill of fare, will be taken as an invitation by the little biting pests, and heartily responded to. Mix half a teaspoonful of hydro-oxalic acid with twelve teaspoonfuls of water,—apply to the itching parts with an old shaving-brush.
SKIN DISEASE IN BIRDS.—Skin disease is, nine times out of ten, caused by parasites infesting the feathers. Poor nutrition can trigger this, even if the birds are kept clean; however, if hygiene is neglected, no matter how generous the diet, it will attract these tiny biting pests, which will respond enthusiastically. Mix half a teaspoon of hydro-oxalic acid with twelve teaspoons of water and apply it to the itchy areas using an old shaving brush.
OBSTRUCTION OF THE CROP.—Obstruction of the crop is occasioned by weakness or greediness. You may know when a bird is so afflicted by his crop being distended almost to bursting. Mowbray tells of a hen of his in this predicament; when the crop was opened, a quantity of new beans were discovered in a state of vegetation. The crop should be slit from the bottom to the top with a sharp pair of scissors, the contents taken out, and the slit sewed up again with line white thread.
OBSTRUCTION OF THE CROP.—Obstruction of the crop happens due to weakness or overeating. You can tell if a bird is suffering from this condition when its crop is swollen almost to the point of bursting. Mowbray mentions a hen of his in this situation; when they opened her crop, they found a bunch of new beans that were still growing. The crop should be carefully cut from the bottom to the top with sharp scissors, the contents removed, and then the cut sewn up again with fine white thread.
MINCED FOWL—an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).
MINCED FOWL—an Entrée (Cold Meat Cooking).
956. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 hard-boiled eggs, salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, two teaspoonfuls of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
956. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chicken, 2 hard-boiled eggs, salt, cayenne pepper, and ground mace, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 6 tablespoons of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 2 teaspoons of flour, 1/2 teaspoon of finely minced lemon zest, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—Cut out from the fowl all the white meat, and mince it finely without any skin or bone; put the bones, skin, and trimmings into a stewpan with an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of mace, and nearly a pint of water; let this stew for an hour, then strain the liquor. Chop the eggs small; mix them with the fowl; add salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, put in the gravy and remaining ingredients; let the whole just boil, and serve with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Remove all the white meat from the chicken and chop it finely, ensuring there's no skin or bone. Put the bones, skin, and scraps into a pot with an onion, a bunch of flavorful herbs, a piece of mace, and about a pint of water; let this simmer for an hour, then strain the liquid. Finely chop the eggs; mix them with the chicken; add salt, cayenne pepper, and ground mace, then incorporate the gravy and the remaining ingredients; bring everything to a gentle boil, and serve with toasted bread slices.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour.
Duration.—Slightly over 1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d.
Average cost, not including the bird, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—Another way to make this is to mince the fowl, and warm it in white sauce or Béchamel. When dressed like this, 3 or 4 poached eggs may be placed on the top: oysters, or chopped mushrooms, or balls of oyster forcemeat, may be laid round the dish.
Note.—Another way to make this is to finely chop the poultry and heat it in white sauce or Béchamel. When served this way, you can place 3 or 4 poached eggs on top: oysters, chopped mushrooms, or balls of oyster forcemeat can be arranged around the dish.
THE MOULTING SEASON.—During the moulting season beginning properly at the end of September, the fowls will require a little extra attention. Keep them dry and warm, and feed them liberally on warm and satisfying food. If in any fowl the moult should seem protracted, examine it for broken feather-stumps still beaded in the skin: if you find any, extract them carefully with a pair of tweezers. If a fowl is hearty and strong, six weeks will see him out of his trouble; if he is weakly, or should take cold during the time, he will not thoroughly recover in less than three months. It is seldom or ever that hens will lay during the moult; while the cock, during the same period, will give so little of his consideration to the frivolities of love, that you may as well, nay, much better, keep him by himself till he perfectly recovers. A moulting chicken makes but a sorry dish.
THE MOULTING SEASON.—During the moulting season, which starts at the end of September, the birds will need a bit more care. Keep them dry and warm, and feed them plenty of warm, hearty food. If a bird seems to be taking a long time to molt, check for broken feather stubs still embedded in the skin: if you find any, carefully remove them with tweezers. If a bird is healthy and strong, it should be done with this process in six weeks; if it is weak or gets a chill during this time, it may take up to three months to fully recover. Hens rarely lay eggs while they are molting, and during this same time, roosters will be so uninterested in mating that it’s better to keep them separated until they have fully healed. A molting chicken is not a great candidate for a nice meal.
HASHED FOWL, Indian Fashion (an Entree).
HASHED FOWL, Indian Style (an Entrée).
957.—INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 pint of gravy.
957.—INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast chicken, 3 or 4 sliced onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, ground mace, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, 1 pint of gravy.
Mode.—Cut the onions into slices, mince the apple, and fry these in the butter; add pounded mace, pepper, salt, curry-powder, vinegar, flour, and sugar in the above proportions; when the onion is brown, put it the gravy, which should be previously made from the bones and trimmings of the fowls, and stew for 3/4 hour; add the fowl cut into nice-sized joints, let it warm through, and when quite tender, serve. The dish should be garnished with au edging of boiled rice.
Instructions.—Slice the onions, chop the apple, and sauté them in the butter. Then, add ground mace, pepper, salt, curry powder, vinegar, flour, and sugar in the specified amounts. Once the onion is browned, mix it into the gravy, which should be made beforehand from the bones and scraps of the poultry. Simmer for 45 minutes; then, add the chicken cut into bite-sized pieces, let it heat through, and once it's tender, serve. The dish should be garnished with a ring of boiled rice.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, not including the chicken, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
THE SCOUR OR DYSENTERY.—The scour, or dysentery, or diarrhoea, is induced variously. A sudden alteration in diet will cause it, as will a superabundance of green food. The best remedy is a piece of toasted biscuit sopped in ale. If the disease has too tight a hold on the bird to be quelled by this, give six drops of syrup of white poppies and six drops of castor-oil, mixed with a little oatmeal or ground rice. Restrict the bird's diet, for a few days, to dry food,—crushed beans or oats, stale bread-crumbs, &c.
THE SCOUR OR DYSENTERY.—The scour, or dysentery, or diarrhea, can be caused in different ways. A sudden change in diet can trigger it, as can too much green food. The best remedy is a piece of toasted biscuit soaked in ale. If the condition is too severe for that to work, give six drops of white poppy syrup and six drops of castor oil, mixed with a bit of oatmeal or ground rice. For a few days, limit the bird's diet to dry food—crushed beans or oats, stale bread crumbs, etc.
FOWL SCOLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).
FOWL SCALLOPS (Cold Meat Cooking).
958. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, or white sauce, No. 537 or 539.
958. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast or boiled chicken, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, or white sauce, No. 537 or 539.
Mode.—Strip off the skin from the fowl; cut the meat into thin slices, and warm them in about 1/2 pint, or rather more, of Béchamel, or white sauce. When quite hot, serve, and garnish the dish with rolled ham or bacon toasted.
Mode.—Remove the skin from the chicken; slice the meat into thin pieces and heat them in about 1/2 pint, or a bit more, of Béchamel or white sauce. Once it’s hot, serve it, and garnish the dish with toasted rolled ham or bacon.
Time.—1 minute to simmer the slices of fowl.
Time.—1 minute to simmer the pieces of chicken.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
[Illustration: THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM.]
[Illustration: THE FEATHER-LEGGED BANTAM.]
THE FEATHER LEGGED BANTAM.—Since the introduction of the Bantam into Europe, it has ramified into many varieties, none of which are destitute of elegance, and some, indeed, remarkable for their beauty. All are, or ought to be, of small size, but lively and vigorous, exhibiting in their movements both grace and stateliness. The variety shown in the engraving is remarkable for the tarsi, or beams of the legs, being plumed to the toes, with stiff, long feathers, which brush the ground. Owing, possibly, to the little care taken to preserve this variety from admixture, it is now not frequently seen. Another variety is often red, with a black breast and single dentated comb. The tarsi are smooth, and of a dusky blue. When this sort of Bantam is pure, it yields in courage and spirit to none, and is, in fact, a game-fowl in miniature, being as beautiful and graceful as it is spirited. A pure white Bantam, possessing all the qualifications just named, is also bred in the royal aviary at Windsor.
THE FEATHER-LEGGED BANTAM.—Since the Bantam was introduced to Europe, it has branched out into many varieties, all of which are elegant, with some being particularly beautiful. They are all, or should be, small in size but lively and energetic, demonstrating both grace and poise in their movements. The variety shown in the illustration is notable for its legs, which are feathered all the way to the toes, with long, stiff feathers that touch the ground. Due to possibly a lack of care in maintaining this variety's purity, it is not commonly seen now. Another common variety is usually red with a black breast and a single serrated comb. Its legs are smooth and a dark blue color. When this type of Bantam is pure, it shows no lack of courage or spirit and is, in fact, a miniature game-fowl, being as striking and graceful as it is spirited. A pure white Bantam, meeting all the characteristics mentioned, is also bred in the royal aviary at Windsor.
AN INDIAN DISH OF FOWL (an Entree).
AN INDIAN DISH OF CHICKEN (an Entrée).
959. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced onions, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, salt to taste.
959. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast chicken, 3 or 4 sliced onions, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, salt to taste.
Mode.—Divide the fowl into joints; slice and fry the onions in a little butter, taking care not to burn them; sprinkle over the fowl a little curry-powder and salt; fry these nicely, pile them high in the centre of the dish, cover with the onion, and serve with a cut lemon on a plate. Care must be taken that the onions are not greasy: they should be quite dry, but not burnt.
Mode.—Cut the chicken into pieces; slice and fry the onions in a little butter, being careful not to burn them; sprinkle a bit of curry powder and salt over the chicken; fry everything until it's nicely cooked, pile it high in the center of the dish, cover it with the onions, and serve with a sliced lemon on the side. Make sure the onions aren't greasy: they should be completely dry, but not burnt.
Time.—5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 minutes to fry the fowl.
Time.—5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 minutes to fry the chicken.
Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 4d.
Average cost, not including the chicken, 4d.
Seasonable during the winter month.
Seasonal during the winter month.
[Illustration: SPECKLED HAMBURGS.]
[Illustration: SPECKLED HAMBURGS.]
THE SPECKLED HAMBURG.—Of the speckled, or spangled Hamburg which is a favourite breed with many persons, there are two varieties,—the golden-speckled and the silver-speckled. The general colour of the former is golden, or orange-yellow, each feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip, particularly remarkable on the hackles of the cock and the wing-coverts, and also on the darker feathers of the breast. The female is yellow, or orange-brown, the feathers in like manner being margined with black. The silver-speckled variety is distinguished by the ground-colour of the plumage being of a silver-white, with perhaps a tinge of straw-yellow, every leather being margined with a semi-lunar mark of glossy black. Both of these varieties are extremely beautiful, the hens laying freely. First-rate birds command a high price.
THE SPECKLED HAMBURG.—Among the speckled, or spangled Hamburg, which many people love, there are two varieties—the golden-speckled and the silver-speckled. The main color of the golden variety is golden, or orange-yellow, with each feather having a shiny dark brown or black tip, especially noticeable on the cock’s hackles and the wing-coverts, as well as on the darker feathers of the breast. The female is yellow or orange-brown, with feathers similarly edged in black. The silver-speckled variety is identified by its silver-white plumage, possibly with a hint of straw-yellow, and every feather is bordered with a semi-lunar mark of shiny black. Both varieties are incredibly attractive, and the hens lay eggs abundantly. Top-quality birds can fetch a high price.
FOWL SAUTE WITH PEAS (an Entree).
FOWL SAUTE WITH PEAS (an Entree).
960. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 oz. of butter, pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of weak stock, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
960. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast chicken, 2 oz. of butter, pepper, salt, and ground mace to taste, 1 dessert spoon of flour, 1/2 pint of weak broth, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Cut the fowl into nice pieces; put the butter into a stew-pan; sautez or fry the fowl a nice brown colour, previously sprinkling it with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dredge in the flour, shake the ingredients well round, then add the stock and peas, and stew till the latter are tender, which will be in about 20 minutes; put in the pounded sugar, and serve, placing the chicken round, and the peas in the middle of the dish. When liked, mushrooms may be substituted for the peas.
Mode.—Cut the chicken into nice pieces; place the butter in a saucepan; sauté or fry the chicken until it’s a nice brown color, sprinkling it beforehand with pepper, salt, and ground mace. Dredge with flour, shake the ingredients well, then add the stock and peas, and simmer until the peas are tender, which will take about 20 minutes; add the ground sugar, and serve, arranging the chicken around the edge and the peas in the center of the dish. If preferred, mushrooms can be used instead of the peas.
Time.—Altogether 40 minutes.
Duration.—Total 40 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 7d.
Average cost, not including the chicken, 7d.
Seasonable from June to August.
Seasonal from June to August.
BOUDIN A LA REINE (an Entree).
BOUDIN A LA REINE (an Entrée).
(M. Ude's Recipe.)
(M. Ude's Recipe.)
961. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast fowls, 1 pint of Béchamel No. 367, salt and cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs.
961. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roasted chicken, 1 pint of Béchamel No. 367, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs.
Mode.—Take the breasts and nice white meat from the fowls; cut it into small dice of an equal size, and throw them into some good Béchamel, made by recipe No. 367; season with salt and cayenne, and put the mixture into a dish to cool. When this preparation is quite cold, cut it into 2 equal parts, which should be made into boudins of a long shape, the size of the dish they are intended to be served on; roll them in flour, egg and bread-crumb them, and be careful that the ends are well covered with the crumbs, otherwise they would break in the frying-pan; fry them a nice colour, put them before the fire to drain the greasy moisture from them, and serve with the remainder of the Béchamel poured round: this should be thinned with a little stock.
Mode.—Take the breasts and good white meat from the poultry; cut it into small, evenly sized dice, and add them to some good Béchamel, made according to recipe No. 367; season with salt and cayenne, and place the mixture in a dish to cool. Once this preparation is completely cold, divide it into 2 equal parts, shaping them into long boudins that match the size of the dish they will be served on; roll them in flour, dip them in egg, and coat them with breadcrumbs, making sure the ends are well covered with crumbs, or they will break in the frying pan; fry them until they’re nicely colored, then set them by the fire to drain any excess grease, and serve with the remaining Béchamel poured around, which should be thinned with a bit of stock.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the boudins.
Time.—10 minutes to fry the boudins.
Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, not including the chicken, 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for 1 entrée.
Sufficient for one entrée.
[Illustration: SEBRIGHT BANTAMS.]
[Illustration: Sebright Bantams.]
SIR JOHN SEBRIGHT'S BANTAMS.—Above all Bantams is placed, the celebrated and beautiful breed called Sir John Sebright's Silver Bantams. This breed, which Sir John brought to perfection after years of careful trials, is very small, with un-feathered legs, and a rose comb and short hackles. The plumage is gold or silver, spangled, every feather being of a golden orange, or of a silver white, with a glossy jet-black margin; the cocks have the tail folded like that of a hen, with the sickle feathers shortened straight, or nearly so, and broader than usual. The term hen-cocks is, in consequence, often applied to them; but although the sickle feathers are thus modified, no bird possesses higher courage, or a more gallant carriage. The attitude of the cock is, indeed, singularly proud; and he is often seen to bear himself so haughtily, that his head, thrown back as if in disdain, nearly touches the two upper feathers—sickles they can scarcely be called—of his tail. Half-bred birds of this kind are not uncommon, but birds of the pure breed are not to be obtained without trouble and expense; indeed, some time ago, it was almost impossible to procure either a fowl or an egg. "The finest," says the writer whom we have consulted as to this breed, "we have ever seen, were in Sir John's poultry-yard, adjacent to Turnham-Green Common, in the byroad leading to Acton."
SIR JOHN SEBRIGHT'S BANTAMS.—At the top of the Bantams is the famous and stunning breed known as Sir John Sebright's Silver Bantams. This breed, which Sir John perfected after years of careful experimentation, is very small, has unfeathered legs, a rose comb, and short hackles. The plumage is either gold or silver, with each feather being a shining golden orange or a silver white, edged with a glossy jet-black margin. The roosters have tails folded like hens, with the sickle feathers shortened and wider than usual. As a result, they are often referred to as hen-cocks; however, despite their modified sickle feathers, no bird has more bravery or a bolder demeanor. The rooster's stance is exceptionally proud, often seen holding itself so arrogantly that its head, tilted back in apparent disdain, almost touches the two upper feathers—though they can scarcely be called sickles—of its tail. Half-bred birds of this type are not uncommon, but purebred birds are hard to find and come at a cost; in fact, not long ago, it was nearly impossible to get either a chicken or an egg. "The finest," says the writer we consulted about this breed, "were in Sir John's poultry yard, near Turnham-Green Common, on the side road leading to Acton."
FOWL A LA MAYONNAISE.
962. INGREDIENTS.—A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468, 4 or 5 young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few water-cresses, endive.
962. INGREDIENTS.—A cold roast chicken, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468, 4 or 5 young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few watercress, endive.
Mode.—Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay them in a deep dish, piling them high in the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise made by recipe No. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves, water-cresses, endive, and hard-boiled eggs: these may be sliced in rings, or laid on the dish whole, cutting off at the bottom a piece of the white, to make the egg stand. All kinds of cold meat and solid fish may be dressed à la Mayonnaise, and make excellent luncheon or supper dishes. The sauce should not be poured over the fowls until the moment of serving. Should a very large Mayonnaise be required, use 2 fowls instead of 1, with an equal proportion of the remaining ingredients.
Mode.—Cut the chicken into neat pieces, place them in a deep dish, stacking them high in the center. Dress the chicken with Mayonnaise made according to recipe No. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in half, watercress, endive, and hard-boiled eggs. The eggs can be sliced into rings or left whole, cutting off a piece of the white at the bottom so they can stand upright. All kinds of cold meats and solid fish can be prepared à la Mayonnaise, making great options for lunch or dinner. The sauce should only be poured over the chicken right before serving. If a very large Mayonnaise is needed, use 2 chickens instead of 1, along with the same proportion of the other ingredients.
Average cost, with one fowl, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, with one chicken, £3.30.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish.
Enough for a medium-sized dish.
Seasonable from April to September.
Available from April to September.
[Illustration: BLACK SPANISH.]
[Illustration: BLACK SPANISH.]
BLACK SPANISH.—The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its uniformly black colour burnished with tints of green; its peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and wattle. The hens are excellent layers, and their eggs are of a very large size. They are, however, bad nurses; consequently, their eggs should be laid in the nest of other varieties to be hatched. "In purchasing Spanish," says an authority, "blue legs, the entire absence of white or coloured feathers in the plumage, and a large, white face, with a very large high comb, which should be erect in the cock, though pendent in the hens, should be insisted on." The flesh of this fowl is esteemed; but, from the smallness of its body when compared with that of the Dorking, it is not placed on an equality with it for the table. Otherwise, however, they are profitable birds, and their handsome carriage, and striking contrast of colour in the comb, face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept fowls. For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any other variety.
BLACK SPANISH.—The true Spanish bird is recognized by its solid black color with a hint of green; its distinctive white face, and the prominent size of its comb and wattle. The hens are great layers, producing very large eggs. However, they are not good mothers, so their eggs should be placed in the nests of other breeds to be hatched. "When buying Spanish," says an expert, "look for blue legs, no white or colored feathers in the plumage, and a large, white face, with a very tall comb that should stand up in roosters but hang down in hens." The meat from this bird is valued, but because of its smaller size compared to the Dorking, it is not considered equal to it for dining. Nevertheless, they are still valuable birds, and their attractive appearance and striking color contrast in the comb, face, and feathers make them highly recommended as poultry. For urban settings, they are perhaps better suited than any other variety.
FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's Recipe (an Indian Dish).
FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer's recipe (an Indian dish).
963. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts of stock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, 1/2 oz. of coriander-seed, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs.
963. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a chicken, 2 quarts of stock or good broth, 40 cardamom seeds, 1/2 oz. of coriander seeds, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs.
Mode.—Well wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, put it into a frying-pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until the rice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into a stewpan with the stock or broth; pound the spices and seeds thoroughly in a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with the fowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done; then add the rice, which should stew until quite tender and almost dry; cut the onions into slices, sprinkle them with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a nice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and grilled, and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a pyramid upon a dish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. Before taking the rice out, remove the spices.
Mode.—Thoroughly wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, then add it to a frying pan with the butter, stirring it over low heat until the rice is lightly browned. Prepare the chicken as you would for boiling, and place it in a saucepan with the stock or broth; grind the spices and seeds well in a mortar, wrap them in a piece of muslin, and add them to the pot with the chicken. Let it simmer gently until the chicken is nearly cooked; then add the rice, allowing it to cook until it's tender and almost dry. Slice the onions, dust them with flour, and fry them until they're a nice golden brown without breaking them. Have the bacon cooked until curled and grilled, and the eggs boiled hard. Arrange the chicken in the shape of a pyramid on a serving dish, cover it with the rice, and garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Serve very hot. Remember to remove the spices before taking the rice out.
Time.—1/2 hour to stew the fowl without the rice; 1/2 hour with it.
Time.—30 minutes to stew the chicken without the rice; 30 minutes with it.
Average cost, 4s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Average cost, £4.15. Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
[Illustration: SULTANS.]
[Illustration: SULTANS.]
THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN.—This fowl is the size of our English Polands, and is the latest species introduced to England. They have a white and flowing plumage, a full-sized, compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffed, have a full flowing tail, short legs well feathered, and five toes upon each foot. Their comb consists merely of two little points, and their wattles are very small: their colour is that of a pure white. In January, 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople; and they take their name from sarai, the Turkish word for sultan's palace, and ta-ook, the Turkish for fowl. They are thus called the "fowls of the sultan," a name which has the twofold advantage of being the nearest to be found to that by which they have been known in their own country, and of designating the country whence they come. Their habits are described as being generally brisk and happy-tempered, but not so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers; but they are non-sitters and small eaters: their eggs are large and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run long before they will, and, with scattered food, they soon satisfy themselves and walk away.
THE SERAI TA-OOK, OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAN.—This bird is about the size of our English Polands and is the newest breed introduced to England. They have white, flowing feathers, a compact Poland tuft on their head, are muffed, have a full, flowing tail, and short, well-feathered legs with five toes on each foot. Their comb has just two little points, and their wattles are very small; their color is pure white. In January 1854, they arrived in this country from Constantinople, and their name comes from sarai, the Turkish word for sultan's palace, and ta-ook, the Turkish word for bird. They are called the "fowls of the sultan," which has the advantage of being close to what they are known as in their home country and designating their country of origin. Their habits are described as generally lively and cheerful, but they are not as easy to keep contained as Cochin-Chinas. They lay excellent eggs; however, they don’t sit on them and are small eaters: their eggs are large and white. Brahmas or Cochins will clean out a grass-run long before these birds will, and with scattered food, they quickly satisfy themselves and walk away.
POULET AUX CRESSONS.
964. INGREDIENTS.—A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy.
964. INGREDIENTS.—A chicken, a large bunch of watercress, 3 tablespoons of vinegar, 1/4 pint of gravy.
Mode.—Truss and roast a fowl by recipe No. 952, taking care that it is nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses, pick them nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle over a little salt and the above proportion of vinegar; place over these the fowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served in a tureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted.
Mode.—Truss and roast a chicken using recipe No. 952, making sure it’s nicely browned and crispy. Wash and dry the watercress, pick it over carefully, and lay it flat on a plate. Sprinkle a bit of salt and the specified amount of vinegar on top; place the chicken over the watercress and pour the gravy over it. A little gravy should be served in a separate dish. If preferred, the vinegar can be left out.
Time.—From 1/2 to 1 hour, according to size.
Time.—From 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on size.
Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.
Average cost, during peak season, 2.5 each.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate at any time.
ROAST FOWL, Stuffed.
Stuffed Roast Chicken.
965. INGREDIENTS.—A large fowl, forcemeat No. 417, a little flour.
965. INGREDIENTS.—A large chicken, stuffing No. 417, a little flour.
Mode.—Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast fowl, dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it for nearly or quite an hour, should it be very large; remove the skewers, and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread sauce.
Mode.—Choose a large, plump chicken, stuff the breast with filling made using recipe No. 417, truss it securely like you would for a regular roast chicken, sprinkle it with flour, and place it over a hot fire. Roast it for about an hour, or longer if it's very large; take out the skewers, and serve it with a nice brown gravy and a bowl of bread sauce.
Time.—Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour.
Time.—Large birds, almost or exactly 1 hour.
Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d. each.
Average cost, during the full season, 2.5 each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Suitable for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.
Available all year, but rare in early spring.
Note.—Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above: this is now a very general mode of serving fowl.
Note.—You can use sausage meat stuffing instead of the above: this has become a very common way to serve poultry.
[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG.]
[Illustration: PENCILLED HAMBURG.]
PENCILLED HAMBURG.—This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two colours, golden and silver, and is very minutely marked. The hens of both should have the body clearly pencilled across with several bars of black, and the hackle in both, sexes should be perfectly free from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the pencillings, but are white or brown in the golden or silver birds respectively. Their form is compact, and their attitudes graceful and sprightly. The hens do not sit, but lay extremely well; hence one of their common names, that of Dutch every-day layers. They are also known in different parts of the country, as Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and, in some parts of Yorkshire, by the wrong name of Corsican fowls. They are imported in large numbers from Holland, but those bred in this country are greatly superior in size.
PENCILED HAMBURG.—This type of Hamburg chicken comes in two colors, golden and silver, and is intricately marked. Both hens should have their bodies clearly penciled with several black bars, and their neck feathers in both sexes should be completely free of dark marks. The roosters don’t show the penciling, but are white or brown, depending on whether they are golden or silver. They have a compact shape and move gracefully and energetically. The hens don't sit on eggs, but they lay extremely well; that's why one of their common names is Dutch everyday layers. They are also known by different names in various parts of the country, including Chitteprats, Creoles, or Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and, in some areas of Yorkshire, mistakenly as Corsican fowls. They are imported in large quantities from Holland, but those raised in this country are much larger.
GIBLET PIE.
966. INGREDIENTS.—A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump-steak, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, plain crust.
966. INGREDIENTS.—A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump steak, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoon of whole black pepper, a bunch of savory herbs, plain crust.
Mode.—Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion, whole pepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs; add rather more than a pint of water, and simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hour. Take them out, let them cool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few pieces of rump-steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of steak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the gravy (which should be strained), that the giblets were stewed in; cover with a plain crust, and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour in a brisk oven. Cover a piece of paper over the pie, to prevent the crust taking too much colour.
Mode.—Clean the giblets and put them in a saucepan with an onion, whole pepper, and a bunch of savory herbs; add just over a pint of water and let it simmer gently for about 1-1/2 hours. Remove them, let them cool, and cut them into pieces; line the bottom of a pie dish with some pieces of rump steak; add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of steak; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the strained gravy from the giblets. Cover with a plain crust and bake for just over 1-1/2 hours in a hot oven. Place a piece of paper over the pie to prevent the crust from browning too much.
Time.—1-1/2 hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie.
Time.—1.5 hours to cook the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie.
Average cost, exclusive of the giblets, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, excluding the giblets, 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
THE BRENT GOOSE.—This is the smallest and most numerous species of the geese which visit the British islands. It makes its appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby states that a very large body of these birds annually resort to the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and which are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine vegetables. Their flesh is very agreeable.
THE BRENT GOOSE.—This is the smallest and most common type of goose that visits the British islands. It appears in winter and spreads across all the coasts and estuaries that other migratory geese use. Mr. Selby notes that a large number of these birds come every year to the extensive sandy and muddy flats between the mainland and Holy Island on the Northumbrian coast, which are covered by every tide. This area of the coast seems to have been a favorite spot for these birds for a very long time, where they have always been called Ware geese, likely because they constantly feed on marine plants. Their meat is quite tasty.
HASHED GOOSE.
967. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. of butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
967. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2 oz. of butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of port wine, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required; the inferior joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan to make the gravy; slice and fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown; add these to the trimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water; stew these gently for 3/4 hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it with flour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above proportion; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of goose; let these get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to boil, and serve with sippets of toasted bread.
Method.—Chop the goose into the desired pieces; put the leftover joints, trimmings, etc., into a pot to make the gravy; slice and sauté the onions in butter until they're a light brown; add these to the trimmings, and pour in about a pint of boiling water; simmer gently for 45 minutes, then skim and strain the liquid. Thicken it with flour, and season with port wine and ketchup in the proportions mentioned earlier; add salt and pepper, then add the pieces of goose; heat them thoroughly, but don't let them boil, and serve with pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—Altogether, rather more than 1 hour.
Time.—In total, a little over 1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold goose, 4d.
Average cost, not including the cold goose, 4d.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
THE WILD GOOSE.—This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag" and is the original of the domestic goose. It is, according to Pennant, the only species which the Britons could take young, and familiarize. "The Gray-lag," says Mr. Gould, "is known to Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia Minor." It is the bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance, and by the Romans was cherished accordingly.
THE WILD GOOSE.—This bird is sometimes called the "Gray-lag" and is the ancestor of the domestic goose. According to Pennant, it's the only species that the Britons could raise from a young age and tame. "The Gray-lag," says Mr. Gould, "is found in Persia, and we believe it is widely spread across Asia Minor." It is the bird that protected the Capitol with its alertness, and the Romans valued it for that reason.
ROAST GOOSE.
968. INGREDIENTS.—Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
968. INGREDIENTS.—Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1.5 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
Choosing and Trussing.—Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump breast, and yellow feet: if these latter are red, the bird is old. Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days: by so doing, the flavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw, and carefully wash and wipe the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long enough to turn over; cut off the feet at the first joint, and separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under part of each wing, and having drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer into the middle of each, and pass the same quite through the body. Insert another skewer into the small of the leg, bring it close down to the side bone, run it through, and do the same to the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent, and make a hole in the skin sufficiently large for the passage of the rump, in order to keep in the seasoning.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose a goose with clean white skin, a plump breast, and yellow feet; if the feet are red, the bird is likely old. If the weather allows, let it hang for a few days to enhance the flavor. Pluck, singe, gut, and thoroughly wash and dry the goose; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving enough skin to fold over. Cut the feet at the first joint, and separate the wings at the first joint. Flatten the breastbone with a rolling pin, insert a skewer through the underside of each wing, and after pulling the legs close together, insert a skewer through the middle of each leg, pushing it all the way through the body. Insert another skewer into the joint of the leg, bringing it down snugly against the side bone, and do the same for the other side. Now cut off the end of the vent and create a hole in the skin big enough for the passage of the rump to secure the seasoning inside.
[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]
[Illustration: Roast Goose.]
Mode.—Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, by recipe No. 504; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmly at both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the skin, and the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back; by this means the seasoning will not escape. Put it down to a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and roast from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to the size. Remove the skewers, and serve with a tureen of good gravy, and one of well-made apple-sauce. Should a very highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, the onions should not be parboiled, but minced raw: of the two methods, the mild seasoning is far superior. A ragoût, or pie, should be made of the giblets, or they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to serve the goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled by coming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint to carve, a large quantity of gravy should not be poured round the goose, but sent in a tureen.
Method.—Make a sage-and-onion stuffing using the ingredients mentioned, following recipe No. 504. Stuff it into the body of the goose and secure both ends by pushing the rump through the hole in the skin and tying the neck skin to the back. This will keep the seasoning from escaping. Place it over a lively fire, baste it well, and roast it for 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on its size. Remove the skewers and serve with a tureen of good gravy and another of well-made apple sauce. If you prefer a stronger flavor, you can use raw minced onions instead of parboiling them; however, the mild seasoning is generally much better. You should make a ragoût or pie with the giblets, or you can stew them down to make gravy. Be sure to serve the goose before the breast collapses, or it will look flat when served. Since this is a bit tricky to carve, don’t pour too much gravy around the goose; instead, provide it in a tureen.
Time.—A large goose, 1-3/4 hour; a moderate-sized one, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—A large goose, 1 hour and 45 minutes; a moderate-sized one, 1 to 1.5 hours.
Seasonable from September to March; but in perfection from Michaelmas to Christmas.
In season from September to March; but at its best from Michaelmas to Christmas.
Average cost, 5s. 6d. each. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
Average cost, £5.60 each. Sufficient for 8 or 9 people.
Note.—A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured into the goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by many persons, considered an improvement.
Note.—A teaspoon of prepared mustard, a pinch of salt, and a few shakes of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured into the goose through a slit made in the apron. Many people consider this sauce an enhancement.
[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE.]
[Illustration: EMDEN GOOSE.]
THE GOOSE.—This bird is pretty generally distributed over the face of the globe, being met with in North America, Lapland, Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties are numerous; but in England there is only one species, which is supposed to be a native breed. The best geese are found on the borders of Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest flocks are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They thrive best where they have an easy access to water, and large herds of them are sent every year to London, to be fattened by the metropolitan poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose," says Dr. Kitchener, "is as famous in the mouths of the million as the minced-pie at Christmas; yet for those who eat with delicacy, it is, at that time, too full-grown. The true period when the goose is in the highest perfection is when it has just acquired its full growth, and not begun to harden; if the March goose is insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank. The fine time is between both; from the second week in June to the first in September." It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen Elizabeth for its origin on the table at that season. Her majesty happened to dine on one at the table of an English baronet, when she received the news of the discomfiture of the Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas. We here give an engraving of the Emden goose.
THE GOOSE.—This bird is widely spread across the globe, found in North America, Lapland, Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. There are many varieties, but in England, there is only one species believed to be native. The best geese come from the borders of Suffolk, as well as Norfolk and Berkshire; however, the largest flocks are raised in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. They do best when they have easy access to water, and large numbers are sent to London each year to be fattened by city poulterers. "A Michaelmas goose," says Dr. Kitchener, "is as well-known to the masses as minced pie is at Christmas; yet for those who eat delicately, it is too mature at that time. The ideal moment for enjoying a goose is when it has just reached full growth and hasn’t started to toughen up; if the March goose is bland, the Michaelmas goose is overly strong. The best time is between the second week in June and the first week in September." It is said that the Michaelmas goose owes its place on the table during that season to Queen Elizabeth. She happened to have one while dining with an English baronet when she received news of the defeat of the Spanish Armada. To commemorate this event, she ordered that goose should be served at every Michaelmas. Here, we present an engraving of the Emden goose.
TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE.
969. INGREDIENTS.—Goose, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
969. INGREDIENTS.—Goose, 3 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Geese are called green till they are about four months old, and should not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the same as in the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for about 3/4 hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with a brown gravy, and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should be garnished with water-cresses.
Mode.—Geese are referred to as green until they reach about four months old and should not be stuffed. After singeing and trussing it like in the previous recipe, add a seasoning of pepper and salt inside the body, along with some butter to keep it moist. Roast it in front of a clear fire for about 45 minutes, until it’s frothy and nicely browned, and serve it with a brown gravy and gooseberry sauce if desired. This dish should be garnished with watercress.
Time.—About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 4s. 6d. each.
Time.—About 45 minutes. Average cost, £0.22 each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
Available in June, July, and August.
[Illustration: TOULOUSE GOOSE.]
[Illustration: Toulouse Goose.]
THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE.—Especial attention has been directed to this bird by Herodotus, who says it was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed by modern travellers. Mr. Salt remarks, "Horus Apollo says the old geese stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed. Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the resemblance may be clearly traced." The goose is also said to have been a bird under the care of Isis. It has been placed by Mr. Gould amongst the birds of Europe; not from the number of half-reclaimed individuals which are annually shot in Britain, but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the southern parts of the continent from its native country, Africa. The Toulouse goose, of which we give an engraving, is a well-known bird.
THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE.—Particular attention has been given to this bird by Herodotus, who noted that it was considered sacred by the ancient Egyptians, a claim supported by modern travelers. Mr. Salt mentions, "Horus Apollo says the older geese stay with their young in the most dangerous situations, risking their own lives, which I have often seen myself. Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is depicted on temple walls in color, the resemblance is unmistakable." It is also said that this goose was cared for by Isis. Mr. Gould has categorized it among the birds of Europe, not because of the number of partially tame individuals that are shot in Britain each year, but because it occasionally migrates to the southern parts of the continent from its home in Africa. The Toulouse goose, which we illustrate here, is a well-known bird.
ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded.
Larded roast guinea fowl.
970. INGREDIENTS.—A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt.
970. INGREDIENTS.—A guinea fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt.
Mode.—When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as a pheasant; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding and trussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire; keep it well basted, and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour, and let it froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same, and one of well-made bread-sauce.
Mode.—When this bird is larded, it should be trussed just like a pheasant; if roasted simply, truss it like a turkey. After larding and trussing it, place it in the oven at a lively fire; keep it well basted, and a little before serving, sprinkle it with some flour, allowing it to froth nicely. Serve with a bit of gravy in the dish, along with a tureen of the same, and one of well-made bread sauce.
Time.—Guinea-fowl, larded, 1-1/4 hour; plainly roasted, about 1 hour.
Time.—Guinea fowl, stuffed, 1-1/4 hours; roasted simply, about 1 hour.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
Note.—The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper, and removed about 10 minutes before serving.
Note.—If the breast is larded, it should be covered with a piece of paper and taken off about 10 minutes before serving.
[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS.]
[Illustration: GUINEA-FOWLS.]
THE GUINEA-FOWL.—The bird takes its name from Guinea, in Africa, where it is found—wild, and in great abundance. It is gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks of two or three hundred, delighting in marshy grounds, and at night perching upon trees, or on high situations. Its size is about the same as that of a common hen, but it stands higher on its legs. Though domesticated, it retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the eggs are excellent. In their flesh, however, they are not so white as the common fowl, but more inclined to the colour of the pheasant, for which it frequently makes a good substitute at table. The flesh is both savoury and easy of digestion, and is in season when game is out of season.
THE GUINEA-FOWL.—This bird gets its name from Guinea, in Africa, where it can be found in the wild and in large numbers. It is social by nature, living in flocks of two or three hundred, enjoying marshy areas, and at night, it perches on trees or high places. Its size is similar to that of a regular chicken, but it stands taller on its legs. Although it has been domesticated, it still preserves much of its wild behavior and tends to wander. The hens lay plenty of eggs, which are excellent. However, their meat isn’t as white as that of common chickens; it leans more towards the color of pheasant, making it a good substitute in meals. The meat is both tasty and easy to digest, and it’s in season when game is out of season.
LARK PIE (an Entree).
Lark Pie (an Entree).
971. INGREDIENTS.—A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9 larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, 1/2 pint of weak stock or water, puff-paste.
971. INGREDIENTS.—A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9 larks, flour; for stuffing, 1 cup of bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of chopped shallot, 1/2 pint of weak stock or water, puff pastry.
Mode.—Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel, parsley, and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed together; roll the larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a few slices of beef and bacon; over these place the larks, and season with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shalot, in the above proportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover with crust, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. During the time the pie is baking, shake it 2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening the gravy, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Prepare a stuffing using breadcrumbs, minced lemon zest, parsley, and an egg yolk, mixing everything together well. Roll the larks in flour and stuff them. Line the bottom of a pie dish with a few slices of beef and bacon; place the larks on top of this and season with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped shallot in the amounts mentioned above. Pour in stock or water, cover with a crust, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. While the pie is baking, shake it 2 or 3 times to help thicken the gravy, and serve very hot.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. a dozen.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, £0.08 a dozen.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—In full season in November.
In season.—Available in November.
ROAST LARKS.
972. INGREDIENTS.—Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter.
972. INGREDIENTS.—Larks, eggs, and bread crumbs, fresh butter.
Mode.—These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy, and may be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them; when they are trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg; sprinkle with bread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire; baste them continually with fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the bread crumbs until the birds are well covered. Dish them on bread crumbs fried in clarified butter, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Broiled larks are also very excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire, and would take about 10 minutes or 1/4 hour.
Mode.—Many people consider these birds a real delicacy, and they can be either roasted or broiled. Begin by picking, gutting, and cleaning them. Once they are trussed, brush them with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and roast them over a hot fire. Continuously baste them with fresh butter and keep sprinkling with more bread crumbs until the birds are well coated. Serve them on bread crumbs fried in clarified butter, and garnish the plate with slices of lemon. Broiled larks are also excellent: they should be cooked over a clear fire and will take about 10 minutes to a quarter of an hour.
Time.—1/4 hour to roast; 10 minutes to broil.
Time.—15 minutes to roast; 10 minutes to broil.
Seasonable.—In full season in November.
In season.—Fully available in November.
Note.—Larks may also be plainly roasted, without covering them with egg and bread crumbs; they should be dished on fried crumbs.
Note.—Larks can also be roasted without being covered in egg and breadcrumbs; they should be served on fried crumbs.
BROILED PIGEONS.
973. INGREDIENTS.—Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
973. INGREDIENTS.—Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Take care that the pigeons are quite fresh, and carefully pluck, draw, and wash them; split the backs, rub the birds over with butter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a moderate fire for 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with either mushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly boiled, and served with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiled fowls, and take from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes to boil.
Mode.—Make sure the pigeons are really fresh. Carefully pluck, gut, and wash them. Split the backs, rub the birds with butter, season with pepper and salt, and grill them over a moderate fire for about 15 to 20 minutes. Serve them very hot with either mushroom sauce or a good gravy. You can also boil pigeons simply and serve them with parsley and butter; they should be trussed like boiled chickens and will take about 15 to 20 minutes to boil.
Time.—To broil a pigeon, from 1/4 hour to 20 minutes; to boil one, the same time.
Time.—To broil a pigeon, it takes 15 minutes to 20 minutes; to boil one, the same amount of time.
Average cost, from 6d. to 9d. each.
Average cost, from 6p to 9p each.
Seasonable from April to September, but in the greatest perfection from midsummer to Michaelmas.
In season from April to September, but at its best from midsummer to Michaelmas.
THE POUTER PIGEON.—This is a very favourite pigeon, and, without doubt, the most curious of his species. He is a tail strong bird, as he had need be to carry about his great inflated crop, frequently as large and as round as a middling-sized turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a ludicrous sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat; his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy protuberance; and, altogether, he reminds you of a little "swell" of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or an intermixture of all these various colours. The pouter is not a prolific breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to degenerate, if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with Irish stock, than any other pigeon: nevertheless, it is a useful bird to keep if you are founding a new colony, as it is much attached to its home, and little apt to stray; consequently it is calculated to induce more restless birds to fettle down and make themselves comfortable. If you wish to breed pouters, you cannot do worse than intrust them with the care of their own eggs.
THE POUTER PIGEON.—This is a very popular pigeon and undoubtedly the most interesting of his kind. He is a strong bird, as he needs to be to carry around his large inflated crop, often as big and round as a medium-sized turnip. A perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is definitely a funny sight: his feathered legs look like white pants; his tapering tail resembles a swallow-tailed coat; his head is completely hidden by his huge windy bulge; and overall, he reminds you of a little "dandy" from a past century, staggering under a load of linen. The most common pouters are blues, buffs, and whites, or a mix of all these colors. The pouter isn’t very prolific, is a poor caregiver, and is more likely to decline, if not regularly crossed with Irish stock, than any other pigeon. However, it can be a useful bird to have if you're starting a new colony, as it is very loyal to its home and less likely to wander off; this helps settle down more restless birds and encourages them to get comfortable. If you want to breed pouters, you can’t go wrong by letting them take care of their own eggs.
ROAST PIGEONS.
974. INGREDIENTS.—Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
974. INGREDIENTS.—Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Trussing.—Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept a little, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon as killed. Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, and cut off the toes at the first joint: previous to trussing, they should be carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing.
Trussing.—For pigeons to taste good, they need to be eaten fresh (if they’re stored for a while, the flavor diminishes), and they should be dressed as soon as they are killed. Remove the heads and necks, tuck the wings over the backs, and cut off the toes at the first joint. Before trussing, they should be thoroughly cleaned, as no bird needs as much washing.
[Illustration: ROAST PIGEON.]
[Illustration: Roast Pigeon.]
Mode.—Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper and salt, and put about 3/4 oz. of butter into the body of each: this makes them moist. Put them down to a bright fire, and baste them well the whole of the time they are cooking (they will be done enough in from 20 to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of parsley and butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl, are exceedingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce.
Method.—Dry the birds thoroughly, season the insides with pepper and salt, and place about 3/4 oz. of butter inside each one to keep them moist. Cook them over a bright fire, basting them well throughout the cooking time (they should be done in about 20 to 30 minutes); garnish with fried parsley and serve with a bowl of parsley and butter. Bread sauce and gravy, similar to what's used for roast chicken, make excellent sides for roast pigeons, along with egg sauce.
Time.—From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 6d. to 9d. each.
Time.—From 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, 6p to 9p each.
Seasonable from April to September; but in the greatest perfection from Midsummer to Michaelmas.
In season from April to September; but at its best from Midsummer to Michaelmas.
THE PIGEON—The pigeon tribe forms a connecting ling between the passerine birds and poultry. They are widely distributed over the world, some of the species being found even in the arctic regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much; not at intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like quadrupeds. The wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence all the varieties of the domestic pigeon are derived. In the wild state it is still found in many parts of this island, making its nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees, or in old towers, but never, like the ringdove, on branches. The blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for the table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in great numbers. When young, and still fed by their parents, they are most preferable for the table, and are called squabs; under six months they are denominated squeakers, and at six months they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury, delicate, and stimulating, and the dark-coloured birds are considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are esteemed to have the more delicate flesh.
THE PIGEON—The pigeon family serves as a link between songbirds and poultry. They are found all over the world, with some species even in the Arctic regions. Their main food is grain, and they drink a lot; not in intervals like other birds, but continuously, like mammals. The wild pigeon, or stock dove, is the ancestor of all domestic pigeon varieties. In the wild, they can still be found in many areas of this country, nesting in rock holes, tree hollows, or old towers, but not on branches like the ring dove. The blue house pigeon is the main variety raised for food in this country, and they are produced in large numbers from our farms. When they are young and still being fed by their parents, they are the most desirable for eating and are called squabs; those under six months are referred to as squeakers, and at six months, they start to breed. Their meat is considered tasty, tender, and stimulating, with dark-colored birds regarded as having the best flavor, while lighter ones are thought to have more delicate meat.
THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT.—The first thing to be done towards keeping pigeons is to provide a commodious place for their reception; and the next is, to provide the pigeons themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will necessarily depend on convenience; but there is one point which must invariably be observed, and that is, that every pair of pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is indispensable, as, without it, there will be no security, but the constant prospect of confusion, breaking of eggs, and the destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is the poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables, brewhouses, bakehouses, or such offices. Some persons keep pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests on the floor. The object is to escape the danger of the young falling out; but in such cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin getting at the pigeons.
THE PIGEON-HOUSE, OR DOVECOT.—The first step in keeping pigeons is to set up a comfortable space for them, and the next is to get the pigeons themselves. The location and size of the dovecot will depend on convenience, but one rule must always be followed: every pair of pigeons should have two holes or rooms for nesting. This is crucial because, without it, there will be no safety, leading to constant chaos, broken eggs, and the loss of chicks. The ideal place for the pigeon-house is in the poultry yard; however, it also works well near homes, stables, brewhouses, bakehouses, or similar areas. Some people keep pigeons in rooms, allowing them to nest on the floor. The aim is to prevent the young from falling out, but this method carries a significant risk of rats or other pests getting to the pigeons.
ASPECT OF THE PIGEON-HOUSE.—The front of the pigeon-house should have a southwest aspect, and, if a room be selected for the purpose, it is usual to break a hole in the roof of the building for the passage of the pigeons, but which can be closed at convenience. A platform ought to be laid at the entrance for the pigeons to perch upon, with some kind of defence against strange cats, which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecot. Yet, although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds, they are necessary to defend them from the approach of rats and mice, which will not only suck the eggs, but destroy the birds. The platform should be painted white, and renewed as the paint wears off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons, and also most conspicuous as a mark to enable them to find their house. The boxes ought also to be similarly painted, and renewed when necessary, for which purpose lime and water will do very well.
ASPECT OF THE PIGEON HOUSE.—The front of the pigeon house should face southwest. If a room is chosen for this purpose, it's common to cut a hole in the roof for the pigeons to come in and out, but this can be closed as needed. A platform should be installed at the entrance for the pigeons to perch on, with some kind of protection against stray cats, which can easily wipe out an entire dovecot. While cats pose a danger to the birds, they are also essential for keeping rats and mice away, as these pests can eat the eggs and harm the birds. The platform should be painted white and refreshed as the paint fades, since pigeons are attracted to white and it's a noticeable color to help them find their home. The boxes should also be painted the same way and repainted when necessary, for which a mixture of lime and water works well.
THE NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS.—As cleanliness in human habitations is of the first importance, so is it in the pigeon-house. There the want of it will soon render the place a nuisance not to be approached, and the birds, both young and old, will be so covered with vermin and filth, that they will neither enjoy health nor comforts, whilst early mortality amongst them will be almost certain. In some cases, the pigeon-house is cleaned daily; but it should always be done, at any rate, once a week, and the floor covered with sifted gravel, frequently renewed. Pigeons being exceedingly fond of water, and having a prescience of the coming of rain, they may be seen upon the house-tops waiting upon it until late in the evening, and then spreading their wings to receive the luxury of the refreshing shower. When they are confined in a room, therefore, they should be allowed a wide pan of water, to be often renewed. This serves them for a bath, which cools, refreshes, and assists them to keep their bodies clear of vermin.
THE NECESSITY OF CLEANLINESS.—Cleanliness in human living spaces is crucial, and it’s just as important in a pigeon house. Without it, the place will quickly become unbearable, and the birds, both young and old, will be infested with pests and dirt, compromising their health and comfort, while early deaths among them will be almost guaranteed. In some cases, the pigeon house is cleaned every day; however, it should definitely be done at least once a week, with the floor covered in sifted gravel that is frequently refreshed. Pigeons love water, and they can sense when it's about to rain, often seen perched on rooftops waiting for it until late in the evening, then spreading their wings to enjoy the refreshing shower. Therefore, when they are kept indoors, they should have access to a large pan of water that is regularly changed. This provides them with a bath, which cools, refreshes, and helps them stay free from pests.
BREEDING PIGEONS.—In breeding pigeons, it is necessary to match a cock and hen, and shut them up together, or place them near to each other, and in the course of a day or two there is little doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen pigeon; but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is generally so remarkable, that he is easily ascertained. The pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and confines himself to one female, and the attachment is reciprocal, and the fidelity of the dove to its mate is proverbial. At the age of six months, young pigeons are termed squeakers, and then begin to breed, when properly managed. Their courtship, and the well-known tone of voice in the cock, just then acquired and commencing, are indications of their approaching union. Nestlings, while fed by cock and hen, are termed squabs, and are, at that age, sold and used for the table. The dove-house pigeon is said to breed monthly, when well supplied with food. At all events, it may be depended on, that pigeons of almost any healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or nine times in the year; whence it may readily be conceived how vast are the numbers that may be raised.
BREEDING PIGEONS.—When breeding pigeons, it's important to pair a male and female and house them together or keep them close, and within a day or two, they will likely mate. There are several guidelines to help tell male pigeons from females, but the male's bold behavior and actions are so distinctive that he can be easily identified. Pigeons are monogamous, with males forming strong bonds with one female, and this attachment is mutual; the loyalty of a pigeon to its mate is well-known. At six months old, young pigeons are called squeakers, and they can start breeding when properly cared for. Their courtship, along with the unique vocalizations of the male that begin to emerge at this time, signals their upcoming union. Baby pigeons, while being fed by both parents, are referred to as squabs and are often sold for food at this age. The dove-house pigeon is known to breed monthly if well-fed. In any case, you can count on healthy and well-established pigeon varieties to breed eight or nine times a year, illustrating just how many can be raised.
[Illustration: CARRIER PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: Carrier Pigeons.]
THE CARRIER PIGEON.—Without doubt the carrier is entitled to rank first in the pigeon family, with the exception, perhaps, of the blue-rock pigeons. No domestic fowl can be traced to so remote an antiquity. When Greece was in its glory, carrier pigeons were used to convey to distant parts the names of the victors at the Olympian games. During the holy war, when Acre was besieged by King Richard, Saladin habitually corresponded with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons. A shaft from an English crossbow, however, happened to bring one of those feathered messengers to the ground, and the stratagem was discovered, the design of the Saracens revealed, and so turned against the designers, that Acre was in the hands of the Christians before the wily Saladin dreamt of such a thing.
THE CARRIER PIGEON.—Without a doubt, the carrier pigeon is the top breed in the pigeon family, except maybe for the blue-rock pigeons. No domesticated bird has such ancient roots. When Greece was at its peak, carrier pigeons were used to send the names of the winners from the Olympic games to faraway places. During the Crusades, when King Richard was besieging Acre, Saladin frequently communicated with those inside the city using carrier pigeons. However, an English crossbow bolt struck one of those feathered couriers down, which revealed the strategy and plans of the Saracens. As a result, the Christians took Acre before the clever Saladin ever suspected it would happen.
PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand Recipe).
Pigeon Pie (Epsom Grandstand Recipe).
975. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff crust.
975. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 lb. of rump steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff pastry.
Mode.—Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square, and with it line the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well with pepper and salt. Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside and out, and put into the body of each rather more than 1/2 oz. of butter; lay them on the steak, and a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the yolks of 4 eggs, and half fill the dish with stock; place a border of puff paste round the edge of the dish, put on the cover, and ornament it in any way that may be preferred. Clean three of the feet, and place them in a hole made in the crust at the top: this shows what kind of pie it is. Glaze the crust,—that is to say, brush it over with the yolk of an egg,—and bake it in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/4 hour. When liked, a seasoning of pounded mace may be added.
Method.—Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square and line the bottom of a pie dish with them, seasoning well with pepper and salt. Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside and out, and put just over 1/2 oz. of butter into the body of each one; place them on the steak, and put a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the yolks of 4 eggs and fill the dish halfway with stock; place a border of puff pastry around the edge of the dish, cover it, and decorate it in any preferred style. Clean three of the feet and place them in a hole made in the crust at the top to show what kind of pie it is. Glaze the crust—brush it with the yolk of an egg—and bake it in a well-heated oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If desired, add some ground mace for seasoning.
Time.—1-1/4 hour, or rather less. Average cost, 5s. 3d.
Time.—1-1/4 hour, or a little less. Average cost, £5.15.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
[Illustration: TUMBLER PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: TUMBLER PIGEONS.]
TUMBLER PIGEONS.—The smaller the size of this variety, the greater its value. The head should be round and smooth, the neck thin, and the tail similar to that of the turbit. Highly-bred birds of this variety will attain an elevation in their flight beyond that of any other pigeons; and it is in seeing these little birds wing themselves so far into the skies that the fanciers take such delight. For four or five hours tumblers have been known to keep on the wing; and it is when they are almost lost to the power of human vision that they exhibit those pantomimic feats which give them their name, and which are marked by a tumbling over-and-over process, which suggests the idea of their having suddenly become giddy, been deprived of their self-control, or overtaken by some calamity. This acrobatic propensity in these pigeons has been ascribed by some to the absence of a proper power in the tail; but is nothing more than a natural habit, for which no adequate reason can be assigned. Of this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most beautiful; and the greater the variation of the colour in the flight and tail, the greater their value.
TUMBLER PIGEONS.—The smaller this variety is, the more valuable it becomes. The head should be round and smooth, the neck slender, and the tail should resemble that of the turbit. Well-bred birds of this type can fly higher than any other pigeons, and it's watching these little birds soar so far into the sky that brings joy to enthusiasts. Tumblers have been known to stay in the air for four or five hours; it's when they are nearly out of sight that they perform those acrobatic tricks that give them their name, characterized by a tumbling motion that makes it seem like they suddenly become dizzy, lose their balance, or face some mishap. Some believe this acrobatic behavior is due to a lack of proper tail control, but it is simply a natural instinct without a clear explanation. Among this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most stunning; the more variation in color in the wings and tail, the more valuable they are.
[Illustration: RUNT PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: RUNT PIGEONS.]
THE RUNT PIGEON.—This is generally esteemed among the largest of the pigeon varieties, and being possessed of proportionate strength, with a strong propensity to exercise it, they keep the dovecot in a state of almost continual commotion by domineering over the weaker inmates. They breed tolerably well, however, and are valuable for the table. There is both the Leghorn and the Spanish Runt, variously plumaged; but when red, white, or black mottled, are most highly esteemed. One of the great advantages connected with the Runt is, that he is not likely to fly away from home. Being heavy birds, they find it difficult, when well fed, to mount even to a low housetop. Again, they require no loft, or special dwelling-place, but, if properly tended, will be perfectly satisfied, and thrive as well, in a rabbit-hutch as any where. Their flavour is very good; and it is not an uncommon thing for a squeaker Runt to exceed a pound and a quarter in weight.
THE RUNT PIGEON. — This is generally regarded as one of the largest varieties of pigeons. They have a solid build and a strong desire to exercise, which keeps the dovecot almost constantly active, as they tend to dominate the weaker birds. They breed fairly well and are valuable for food. There are both Leghorn and Spanish Runts, with various plumage, but those that are red, white, or black mottled are especially prized. One of the major advantages of the Runt is that they are unlikely to fly away from home. Being heavy birds, they find it hard to take flight even to a low rooftop when well fed. Moreover, they don’t need a loft or a special place to live; if they are cared for properly, they will be perfectly content and thrive just as well in a rabbit hutch as anywhere else. Their taste is quite good, and it’s not unusual for a young Runt to weigh over a pound and a quarter.
[Illustration: NUN PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: NUN PIGEONS.]
THE NUN PIGEON.—The Tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this variety, which is characterized by a tuft of feathers rising from the back of the head, and which, on the whole, is an extremely pretty little bird. According to the colour of the head, it is called the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. To be a perfect bird, it should have a small head and beak; and the larger the tuft at the back of his head, the handsomer the bird is esteemed, and proportionately valuable in the eyes of pigeon-fanciers.
THE NUN PIGEON.—The Tumbler closely resembles this type, which has a tuft of feathers that stands up from the back of its head, making it a very pretty little bird overall. Depending on the color of the head, it is referred to as the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. For it to be considered a perfect bird, it should have a small head and beak; the larger the tuft at the back of its head, the more attractive the bird is regarded, and consequently, it is valued more by pigeon enthusiasts.
[Illustration: TRUMPETER PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: Trumpeter Pigeons.]
THE TRUMPETER PIGEON.—From the circumstance of this bird imitating the sound of a trumpet, instead of cooing, like other pigeons, it has received its designation. It is of the middle size, having its legs and feet covered with feathers, and its plumage generally of a mottled black-and-white. It has a tuft springing from the root of its beak, and the larger this topknot is, the higher the estimation in which the breed is held. In their powers of trumpeting some are more expert than others; and whether this has any effect in influencing their own estimate of themselves, we cannot say; but they are rather select in the choice of their company. If two of them are put in a pigeon-house with other doves, it will be found that they confine their association almost entirely to each other. As much as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained docile bird of this kind.
THE TRUMPETER PIGEON.—This bird gets its name because it makes a trumpet-like sound instead of cooing like other pigeons. It’s medium-sized, with its legs and feet covered in feathers, and its plumage is usually a mix of black and white. It has a tuft at the base of its beak, and the larger the tuft, the more valuable the breed is considered. Some of them are better at trumpeting than others; we can’t say if this affects their self-esteem, but they tend to be selective about their friends. If you put two of them in a pigeon loft with other doves, they usually stick to each other. As much as two guineas have been paid for a well-trained, tame bird of this type.
[Illustration: WOOD-PIGEON.]
[Illustration: WOOD-PIGEON.]
THE WOOD, OR WILD PIGEON.—Buffon enumerates upwards of thirty varieties of the pigeon, which he derives from one root,—viz. the stockdove, or common wild pigeon. All the varieties of colour and form which we witness, he attributes to human contrivance and fancy. Nevertheless, there exist essentially specific differences in these birds, which would appear to be attributable rather to the nature of the region, soil, and climate to which they are indigenous, than to the art and ingenuity of man. The stockdove, in its wild state, is still found in some parts of Britain, forming its nest in the holes of rocks, old towers, and in the hollows of trees; it never, however, like the ringdove, nestles in the branches. Multitudes of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter, coming from their more northerly retreats, making their appearance about November, and retiring again in the spring. When forests of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of this country, these birds used to haunt them in myriads, frequently covering a mile of ground in extent when they went out in the morning to feed.
THE WOOD, OR WILD PIGEON. — Buffon lists more than thirty types of pigeons, which he believes all come from one ancestor—specifically, the stock dove or common wild pigeon. He attributes all the different colors and shapes we see to human creativity and preference. However, there are significant differences among these birds that seem to be more related to the specific characteristics of their natural environments—such as the region, soil, and climate—rather than human influence. The stock dove still exists in the wild in some areas of Britain, nesting in rock crevices, old towers, and tree hollows; however, unlike the ring dove, it doesn’t build its nest in tree branches. Many wild pigeons visit our shores in winter, migrating from their northern habitats. They typically show up around November and leave again in the spring. When large areas of this country were covered in beech forests, these birds used to swarm there in huge numbers, often stretching for a mile when they went out to feed in the morning.
STEWED PIGEONS.
976. INGREDIENTS.—6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, sufficient stock No. 104 to cover the pigeons, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.
976. INGREDIENTS.—6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoons of minced parsley, enough stock No. 104 to cover the pigeons, a thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoon of port wine.
Mode.—Empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly, mince the livers, add to these the parsley and butter, and put it into the insides of the birds. Truss them with the legs inward, and put them into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them; add the stock, and stew gently for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish the pigeons, strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and port wine, give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and serve.
Mode.—Thoroughly clean and empty the pigeons, mince the livers, then mix them with parsley and butter, and stuff this mixture into the birds. Truss them with the legs tucked in, and place them in a stewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over them; add the stock, and let it simmer gently for a little over 30 minutes. Serve the pigeons on a dish, strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and port wine, bring it to a boil, pour it over the pigeons, and serve.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour. Average cost, 6d. to 9d. each.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes. Average cost, 6p to 9p each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from April to September.
Available from April to September.
[Illustration: FANTAIL PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: FANTAIL PIGEONS.]
THE FANTAIL PIGEON.—This curious variety is inferior in point of size to most of the other varieties, and is characterized by having a short, slender bill, pendent wings, and naked legs and feet. It has the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a turkey-cock; during which action, especially when paying court to it's mate, it trembles or shakes, like the peacock when moving about with his train expanded and in full display. This power of erecting and spreading the tail is not confined to the male bird alone: the female possesses the same power to an equal extent, and otherwise resembles the male in every respect. It is not very prolific, and seldom succeeds so well in the aviary or pigeon-house as most of the other kinds.
THE FANTAIL PIGEON.—This unique variety is smaller than most others and is known for its short, slim bill, dangling wings, and bare legs and feet. It can raise its tail like a male turkey; during this display, especially when courting its mate, it shakes or quivers, similar to how a peacock does when flaunting its tail. This ability to raise and spread the tail isn’t limited to the males; females can do it just as well and otherwise look just like the males. They aren’t very prolific and generally don’t do as well in an aviary or pigeon house as many of the other varieties.
[Illustration: JACOBIN PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: JACOBIN PIGEONS.]
THE JACOBIN PIGEON.—This variety, having the power to transmit to posterity a form precisely similar, with all its peculiar characters undiminished, is, among pigeon-fanciers, designated as of a pure or permanent race. It is distinguished by a remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which, commencing behind the head and proceeding down the neck and breast, forms a kind of hood, not unlike that worn by a monk. From this circumstance, it has obtained its Gallic name of nonnain capuchin. In size it is one of the smallest of the domestic pigeons, and its form is light and elegant. It is a very productive species, and, having its flight considerably impeded by the size and form of its hooded frill, keeps much at home, and is well adapted for the aviary or other buildings where pigeons are confined.
THE JACOBIN PIGEON.—This variety, known for its ability to pass down an unchanged form with all its unique characteristics, is regarded by pigeon fanciers as a pure or permanent breed. It features a distinctive ruff or frill of raised feathers that starts behind the head and extends down the neck and chest, creating a hood similar to what a monk wears. Because of this, it is called nonnain capuchin in French. It is one of the smallest domestic pigeons, with a light and elegant shape. This breed is quite prolific, and due to the size and shape of its hooded frill limiting its flight, it tends to stay close to home, making it well-suited for aviaries or other enclosures where pigeons are kept.
[Illustration: TURBIT PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: TURBIT PIGEONS.]
THE TURBIT PIGEON.—This variety bears a strong resemblance to the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore part of its neck, occasioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise and standing straight out. The species is classed in accordance with the colour of the shoulders, similarly as the Nuns are by the colour of their heads. Their characteristics of excellence are a full frill, short bill, and small round head. In Germany it is called the ruffle pigeon, in allusion to the feathers on its breast; and it has rarely any feathers on its feet. There is a peculiarity connected with this bird, which somewhat lowers it in the estimation of fanciers: it seldom rears more than one at a time, which, therefore, marks it as a bird rather for amusement than profit.
THE TURBIT PIGEON.—This variety looks a lot like the Jacobin, featuring a type of frill at the front of its neck, caused by the breast feathers lying the opposite way and sticking straight out. The species is categorized based on the color of the shoulders, just like the Nuns are categorized by the color of their heads. Its key traits include a full frill, short beak, and small round head. In Germany, it's referred to as the ruffle pigeon, reflecting the feathers on its breast; it usually has very few feathers on its feet. There's a particular feature about this bird that somewhat diminishes its appeal to fanciers: it rarely raises more than one chick at a time, which makes it more of a pet than a source of profit.
[Illustration: BARB PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: BARB PIGEONS.]
THE BARB PIGEON.—The name of this variety is a contraction of Barbary, from which country it originally comes. It is both prolific and has excellent qualities as a nurse. The kind most esteemed is that of one uniform colour, that of blue-black being preferable to any other. Speckled or mottled Barbs are esteemed the most common of all pigeons. It is not unlike the Carrier pigeon, and, at a small distance, might easily be mistaken for the latter. It has a short beak and a small wattle. A spongy, pinky skin round the eyes is its chief characteristic, however, and this increases in size till the bird is three or four years old. This peculiarity is hardly distinguishable in very young birds.
THE BARB PIGEON.—The name of this type comes from Barbary, which is its country of origin. It is both highly fertile and an excellent nurse. The most valued variety is one that is a solid color, with blue-black being the preferred shade. Speckled or mottled Barbs are considered the most common of all pigeons. It resembles the Carrier pigeon, and from a distance, you might easily confuse the two. It has a short beak and a small wattle. However, its main characteristic is the spongy, pinkish skin around the eyes, which grows larger as the bird reaches three or four years old. This feature is barely noticeable in very young birds.
[Illustration: BLUE ROCK-PIGEON.]
[Illustration: BLUE ROCK PIGEON.]
THE ROCK PIGEON.—This variety, in its wild state, is found upon the rocky parts of the west of Scotland, and the bold shores of the Western Isles, more abundant than in any other parts of the British islands. As the shores of the mainland are exposed to the muds of the Atlantic, and the comparatively small islands are surrounded by that ocean, the low grounds exposed to the west are seldom covered with snow for any length of time, and thus the birds easily find a supply of food. The numbers which there congregate are often very great, and the din of their united cry is sometimes very loud and even alarming. The love of home and the certainty of returning to it is very conspicuous in the rock-pigeon or biset, as it is called by the French. Flocks from different parts of the coasts often meet on the feeding-grounds; but when the time of returning to rest comes round, each one keeps to its own party.
THE ROCK PIGEON.—This type, in its natural habitat, is found in the rocky areas of western Scotland and the rugged shores of the Western Isles, more commonly than in any other part of the British Isles. Because the mainland shores are hit by the Atlantic tides and the relatively small islands are surrounded by that ocean, the low-lying areas facing the west rarely remain covered with snow for long. This allows the birds to easily find food. The numbers that gather there can be quite large, and the sound of their collective calls can be very loud and even intimidating. The rock pigeon, or biset as the French call it, clearly shows a strong attachment to home and a certainty about returning. Flocks from various coastal areas often come together on the feeding grounds, but when it’s time to go back to rest, each flock sticks to its own group.
[Illustration: OWL PIGEONS.]
[Illustration: OWL PIGEONS.]
THE OWL PIGEON.—This pigeon does not seem to be so well known as it formerly was, if we may judge from the fact that few modern writers mention it. Like the Turbit pigeon, the Owl has a remarkable tuft of feathers on the breast, it having been compared by some to the frill of a shirt, and by others to a full-blown white rose. In size, it is not quite so large a pigeon as the Jacobin. It is said to be preferred in France, above other varieties, as a bird to rear and kill for the table. In England it is very far from being common; indeed, we have applied to several keepers of pigeons, who have fancied themselves acquainted with all the varieties of this bird, and they have been able to tell us nothing of it. Mr. Harrison Weir, our artist, however, has made his portrait from the life.
THE OWL PIGEON.—This pigeon doesn’t seem to be as well known as it used to be, judging by the fact that few modern writers mention it. Similar to the Turbit pigeon, the Owl has a distinctive tuft of feathers on its chest, which some have likened to a shirt frill, while others compare it to a fully bloomed white rose. In size, it’s slightly smaller than the Jacobin. It’s said to be favored in France over other varieties as a bird for raising and serving at the table. In England, it’s quite rare; in fact, we’ve contacted several pigeon keepers who believe they know all the varieties, yet they have been unable to provide us with any information about it. However, Mr. Harrison Weir, our artist, has created a portrait of it from life.
BOILED RABBIT.
[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]
[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]
977. INGREDIENTS.—Rabbit; water.
977. INGREDIENTS.—Rabbit; water.
Mode.—For boiling, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws, as that denotes they are young: should these be blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, the animal is old. After emptying and skinning it, wash it well in cold water, and let it soak for about 1/4 hour in warm water, to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten it there by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbit into sufficient hot water to cover it, let it boil very gently until tender, which will be in from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to its size and age. Dish it, and smother it either with onion, mushroom, or liver sauce, or parsley-and-butter; the former is, however, generally preferred to any of the last-named sauces. When liver-sauce is preferred, the liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very finely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce.
Method.—For boiling, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws, as that indicates they are young: if the claws are blunt and rough, and the ears are dry and tough, the animal is old. After gutting and skinning it, wash it thoroughly in cold water, and let it soak for about 15 minutes in warm water to remove the blood. Bring the head around to the side, and secure it there with a skewer that goes through the head and body. Place the rabbit in enough hot water to cover it, and let it simmer gently until tender, which should take about 30 to 45 minutes, depending on its size and age. Serve it, and cover it with either onion, mushroom, or liver sauce, or parsley and butter; the onion sauce is generally preferred to the others. If liver sauce is preferred, boil the liver for a few minutes, then chop it very finely or push it through a sieve before adding it to the sauce.
Time.—A very young rabbit, 1/2 hour; a large one, 3/4 hour; an old one, 1 hour or longer.
Time.—A very young rabbit, 30 minutes; a large one, 45 minutes; an old one, 1 hour or longer.
Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Average cost, from 1s to 1s 6d each.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
In season from September to February.
THE RABBIT.—Though this animal is an inhabitant of most temperate climates, it does not reach so far north as the hare. The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found in large numbers in the sandy districts of Norfolk and Cambridgeshire. Its flesh is, by some, considered to have a higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit, although it is neither so white nor so delicate. The animal, however, becomes larger and fatter in the tame than in the wild state; but it is not desirable to have it so fat as it can be made.
THE RABBIT.—Although this animal lives in most temperate climates, it doesn’t go as far north as the hare. The wild rabbit is native to Great Britain and can be found in large numbers in the sandy areas of Norfolk and Cambridgeshire. Some people think its meat has a stronger flavor than that of the domesticated rabbit, though it is neither as white nor as tender. However, domesticated rabbits grow larger and fatter than wild ones; still, it's not ideal for them to get too fat.
CURRIED RABBIT.
978. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of stock No. 104, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of mushroom powder, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of rice.
978. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of stock No. 104, 1 tablespoon of curry powder, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 teaspoon of mushroom powder, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of rice.
Mode.—Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it neatly into joints. Put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced onions, and let them acquire a nice brown colour, but do not allow them to blacken. Pour in the stock, which should be boiling; mix the curry powder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to the stock, with the mushroom powder, and simmer gently for rather more than 1/2 hour; squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve in the centre of a dish, with an edging of boiled rice all round. Where economy is studied, water may be substituted for the stock; in this case, the meat and onions must be very nicely browned. A little sour apple and rasped cocoa-nut stewed with the curry will be found a great improvement.
Mode.—Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, then cut it into pieces. Put it in a stewpan with butter and sliced onions, and let them brown nicely, but don’t let them burn. Pour in boiling stock; mix the curry powder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to the stock along with the mushroom powder, and simmer gently for a little over 30 minutes. Squeeze in the lemon juice and serve it in the center of a dish, with boiled rice all around. If you're trying to save money, you can use water instead of stock; in this case, make sure the meat and onions are well browned. Adding a bit of sour apple and grated coconut to the curry will make it taste even better.
Time.—Altogether 3/4 hour.
Time.—Total 45 minutes.
Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Average cost, from £0.05 to £0.08 each.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
[Illustration: WILD RABBITS.]
[Illustration: WILD RABBITS.]
THE COMMON OR WILD RABBIT.—Warrens, or inclosures, are frequently made in favourable localities, and some of them are so large as to comprise 2,000 acres. The common wild rabbit is of a grey colour, and is esteemed the best for the purposes of food. Its skin is valuable as an article of commerce, being used for the making of hats. Another variety of the rabbit, however, called the "silver-grey," has been lately introduced to this country, and is still more valuable. Its colour is a black ground, thickly interspersed with grey hairs; and its powers as a destroyer and consumer of vegetable food are well known to be enormous, especially by those who have gardens in the vicinity of a rabbit-warren.
THE COMMON OR WILD RABBIT.—Warrens, or enclosures, are often created in suitable areas, and some of them are so large that they cover 2,000 acres. The common wild rabbit has a grey color and is considered the best for food purposes. Its skin is valuable in trade, as it is used to make hats. Another variety of rabbit, known as the "silver-grey," has recently been introduced to this country and is even more valuable. Its color features a black base, densely sprinkled with grey hairs; and its ability to destroy and consume plant food is well known to be significant, especially to those who have gardens near a rabbit warren.
FRIED RABBIT.
979. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, flour, dripping, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
979. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, flour, cooking fat, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of minced shallot, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and flour them well; make the dripping boiling in a fryingpan, put in the rabbit, and fry it a nice brown. Have ready a very hot dish, put in the butter, shalot, and ketchup; arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this, and serve as quickly as possible.
Method.—Cut the rabbit into even pieces and coat them in flour. Heat the dripping in a frying pan until it's boiling, add the rabbit, and fry it until it's nice and brown. Have a very hot serving dish ready; add the butter, shallot, and ketchup to it. Arrange the rabbit in a pyramid shape on the dish and serve it as quickly as you can.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, from £0.01 to £0.05 each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
Note.—The rabbit may be brushed over with egg, and sprinkled with bread crumbs, and fried as above. When cooked in this manner, make a gravy in the pan by recipe No. 866, and pour it round, but not over, the pieces of rabbit.
Note.—You can brush the rabbit with egg, sprinkle it with bread crumbs, and fry it as described above. Once cooked this way, make a gravy in the pan using recipe No. 866, and pour it around, but not over, the pieces of rabbit.
VARIETIES IN RABBITS.—Almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a furry animal, that lives on plants, and burrows in the ground; that it has its varieties as well as other animals, and that it is frequently an especial favourite with boys. Among its varieties, the short-legged, with width and substance of loin, is the most hardy, and fattens the most expeditiously. It has, besides, the soundest liver, rabbits generally being subject to defects of that part. It is also the smallest variety. There is a very large species of the hare-colour, having much bone, length and depth of carcase, large and long ears, with full eyes, resembling those of the hare: it might readily be taken for a hybrid or mule, but for the objection to its breeding. Its flesh is high-coloured, substantial, and more savoury than that of the common rabbit; and, cooked like the hare, it makes a good dish. The large white, and yellow and white species, have whiter and more delicate flesh, and, cooked in the same way, will rival the turkey. Rabbits are divided into four kinds, distinguished as warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The warrener, as his name implies, is a member of a subterranean community, and is less effeminate than his kindred who dwell upon the earth and have "the world at their will," and his fur is the most esteemed. After him, comes the parker, whose favourite resort is a gentleman's pleasure-ground, where he usually breeds in great numbers, and from which he frequently drives away the hares. The hedgehog is a sort of vagabond rabbit, that, tinker like, roams about the country, and would have a much better coat on his back if he was more settled in his habits, and remained more at home. The sweetheart is a tame rabbit, with its fur so sleek, soft, and silky, that it is also used to some extent in the important branch of hat-making.
VARIETIES IN RABBITS.—Almost everyone knows that a rabbit is a furry animal, that lives on plants and burrows in the ground; that it has different kinds just like other animals, and that it is often a favorite among boys. Among its varieties, the short-legged one, with a wide and solid loin, is the hardiest and gains weight the fastest. It also has the healthiest liver, as rabbits are generally prone to liver issues. Additionally, it is the smallest variety. There is a very large type with hare-like coloring, having a lot of bone structure, a long and deep body, large ears, and full eyes that resemble those of hares: it could easily be mistaken for a hybrid, except that it doesn’t breed that way. Its meat is richly colored, substantial, and tastier than that of the common rabbit; when cooked like hare, it makes a great dish. The large white and the yellow-and-white types have whiter and more delicate meat, and when cooked in the same manner, they can compete with turkey. Rabbits are classified into four categories: warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The warrener, as his name suggests, is part of a subterranean community and is less delicate than his relatives who live above ground and have “the world at their will,” and his fur is the most prized. Next is the parker, who prefers a gentleman’s grounds, where he usually breeds in large numbers and often chases away the hares. The hedgehog is a kind of wandering rabbit that roams the countryside like a vagabond, and he would have a much better coat if he settled down more and stayed at home. The sweetheart is a domesticated rabbit, with sleek, soft, and silky fur, which is also used to some extent in the important hat-making industry.
RABBIT A LA MINUTE.
980. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint of water.
980. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 1/4 lb. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoons of minced parsley, 2 teaspoons of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it into joints. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit; add salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it cook until three parts done; then put in the remaining ingredients, and boil for about 10 minutes: it will then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare may be dressed in the same manner.
Mode.—Clean, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, then cut it into pieces. Heat butter in a saucepan with the rabbit pieces; add salt, pepper, and ground mace, and cook until nearly done; then add the remaining ingredients and boil for about 10 minutes: it will then be ready to serve. Chickens or hares can be prepared in the same way.
Time.—Altogether, 35 minutes. Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Time.—In total, 35 minutes. Average cost, from 1 shilling to 1 shilling 6 pence each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
In season from September to February.
RABBIT PIE.
981. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, a few forcemeat balls, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of gravy, puff crust.
981. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, a few meatballs, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of gravy, puff pastry.
Mode.—Cut up the rabbit (which should be young), remove the breastbone, and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, slices of ham, forcemeat balls, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each layer with pepper, salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Pour in about 1/2 pint of water, cover with crust, and bake in a well-heated oven for about 1-1/2 hour. Should the crust acquire too much colour, place a piece of paper over it to prevent its burning. When done, pour in at the top, by means of the hole in the middle of the crust, a little good gravy, which may be made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit and 2 or 3 shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, and spices.
Instructions.—Chop up the rabbit (it should be young), take out the breastbone, and remove the bones from the legs. Layer the rabbit, slices of ham, meatballs, and hard-boiled eggs alternately, seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, ground mace, and grated nutmeg. Add about 1/2 pint of water, cover it with crust, and bake in a preheated oven for about 1.5 hours. If the crust starts to brown too much, place a piece of paper over it to prevent burning. When it's done, pour a little good gravy into the hole in the center of the crust, which can be made from the rabbit's breast and leg bones along with 2 or 3 shank bones, flavored with onion, herbs, and spices.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, from £0.05 to £0.075 each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
In season from September to February.
Note.—The liver of the rabbit may be boiled, minced, and mixed with the forcemeat balls, when the flavour is liked.
Note.—The rabbit's liver can be boiled, chopped, and blended with the meatballs if the flavor is preferred.
FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT.—The fruitfulness of this animal has been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a single pair would amount to more than a million. As the rabbit, however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to increase in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind; for it not only furnishes man with an article of food, but is, by carnivorous animals of every description, mercilessly sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the Roman power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an extent, that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate them.
FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT.—The fertility of this animal has amazed all naturalists. It breeds seven times a year and usually has seven or eight babies at a time. If we assume this happens regularly for four years, the offspring from a single pair could total over a million. However, since the rabbit has many predators, it can never increase in numbers to the point where it becomes harmful to humans; it not only provides food for people but is also relentlessly hunted by all kinds of carnivorous animals. Despite this, during the time of Roman rule, they once overran the Balearic Islands to such an extent that the residents had to request military help from Augustus to get rid of them.
RAGOUT OF RABBIT OR HARE.
982. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2 oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2 slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine.
982. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 3 teaspoons of flour, 3 sliced onions, 2 oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste, 2 slices of lemon, 1 bay leaf, 1 glass of port wine.
Mode.—Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flour and butter; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts, till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, a little water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream. Cut some thin slices of bacon; lay in these with the rabbit, cut into neat joints; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf, and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Slice the onions and put them in a saucepan with the flour and butter; place the pan near the heat, stirring well as the butter melts, until the onions turn a rich brown color. Gradually add a bit of water or gravy until the mixture is creamy. Cut some thin slices of bacon and add them along with the rabbit, cut into neat pieces; season with pepper and salt, add the lemon and bay leaf, and let everything simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, bring to a boil, and serve.
Time.—About 1/2 hour to simmer the rabbit.
Time.—About 30 minutes to simmer the rabbit.
Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Average cost, from 1 shilling to 1 shilling 6 pence each. Sufficient for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
THE RABBIT-HOUSE.—Rabbit-keeping is generally practised by a few individuals in almost every town, and by a few in almost every part of the country. Forty years ago, there were in the metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to report, kept from 1,600 to 2,000 breeding does. These large establishments, however, have ceased to exist, and London receives the supply of tame as well as wild rabbits chiefly from the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house should be placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated. Exposure to rain, whether externally or internally, is fatal to rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are indispensable where many rabbits are kept, or they will neither prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time. A thorough draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely necessary, and should be so contrived as to be checked in cold or wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or windows.
THE RABBIT-HOUSE.—Rabbit-keeping is commonly practiced by a few people in nearly every town and in various parts of the country. Forty years ago, there were one or two significant breeders in the city who reportedly had between 1,600 and 2,000 breeding females. However, these large operations no longer exist, and London mainly gets its supply of domestic and wild rabbits from the countryside. When rabbits are kept, the rabbit house should be built on a dry foundation and well-ventilated. Exposure to rain, both outside and inside, is deadly for rabbits, which, like sheep, can suffer from similar issues. Good ventilation and fresh air are essential where many rabbits are kept, or they won't thrive or stay healthy for long. A good airflow or passage for air is, therefore, crucial and should be designed to be controlled during cold or wet weather by closing opposite doors or windows.
ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT.
983. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper, sausage-meat.
983. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper, sausage meat.
[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]
[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]
Mode.—Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit; wipe it dry, line the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417, and to which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside, skewer back the head between the shoulders, cut off the fore-joints of the shoulders and legs, bring: them close to the body, and secure them by means of a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it is done remove the paper, flour and froth it, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown gravy and red-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same manner as above; in a good oven, it will take about the same time as roasting.
Mode.—Clean the rabbit thoroughly, remove the skin, and wipe it dry. Fill the inside with sausage meat and the forcemeat from recipe No. 417, adding the minced liver. Sew up the stuffing inside, skewer the head back between the shoulders, and trim off the joints of the shoulders and legs, bringing them close to the body and securing them with a skewer. Wrap the rabbit in buttered paper and place it over a hot, clear fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before it’s done, remove the paper, dust it with flour, and baste it to give it a nice brown color. Remove the skewers and serve it with brown gravy and red currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, follow the same method as above; it will take about the same time as roasting in a good oven.
Time.—A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 3/4 hour.
Time.—A young rabbit, 35 minutes; a large one, about 45 minutes.
Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Average cost, from 1 shilling to 1 shilling 6 pence each. Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
In season from September to February.
THE HUTCH.—Hutches are generally placed one above another to the height required by the number of rabbits and the extent of the room. Where a large stock is kept, to make the most of room, the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual way, joined to the wall. It is preferable to rest the hutches upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the convenience of cleaning under them. Each of the hutches intended for breeding should have two rooms,—a feeding and a bed-room. Those are single for the use of the weaned rabbits, or for the bucks, which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed smooth, that wet may run off, and a common hoe, with a short handle, and a short broom, are most convenient implements for cleaning these houses.
THE HUTCH.—Hutches are usually stacked on top of each other to fit the number of rabbits and the space available. In larger setups, to maximize space, the hutches can be arranged in rows with enough space in between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being typically attached to the wall. It’s better to place the hutches on stands about a foot off the ground for easier cleaning underneath. Each hutch meant for breeding should have two rooms—one for feeding and one for sleeping. There are single hutches for the weaned rabbits or for the bucks, which are always kept separate. The floors should be smooth so that moisture can drain off easily, and a standard hoe with a short handle along with a short broom are the most handy tools for cleaning these enclosures.
STEWED RABBIT.
984. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
984. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small teaspoon of chopped lemon peel, a few meatballs, a thickener made of butter and flour, 1 large tablespoon of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut the rabbit into small joints; put them into a stewpan, add the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in sufficient water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done, drop in a few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely chopped. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup, give one boil, and serve.
Mode.—Cut the rabbit into small pieces; put them in a saucepan, add the sliced onions, cloves, and minced lemon peel. Pour in enough water to cover the meat, and when the rabbit is almost cooked, add a few meatballs made with the finely chopped liver. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup, bring to a boil, and serve.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d each.
Time.—Just over half an hour. Average cost, 1 shilling to 1 shilling 6 pence each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
[Illustration: LOP-EARED RABBIT.]
[Illustration: Lop-Eared Rabbit.]
FANCY RABBITS.—The graceful fall of the ears is the first thing that is looked to by the fancier; next, the dewlap, if the animal is in its prime; then the colours and marked points, and, lastly, the shape and general appearance. The ears of a fine rabbit should extend not less than seven inches, measured from tip to tip in a line across the skull; but even should they exceed this length, they are admitted with reluctance into a fancy stock, unless they have a uniform and graceful droop. The dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is only seen in fancy rabbits, after they have attained their full growth: it commences immediately under the jaw, and adds greatly to the beauty of their appearance. It goes down the throat and between the fore legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond the chin.
FANCY RABBITS.—The elegant way the ears drop is the first thing fanciers look for; next is the dewlap, if the rabbit is in its prime; then come the colors and markings, and finally, the shape and overall look. A well-bred rabbit should have ears measuring at least seven inches from tip to tip across the head; however, even if they are longer, they are only reluctantly accepted into fancy stock unless they have a consistent and graceful droop. The dewlap, a fold of skin under the neck and throat, is noticeable in fancy rabbits only after they have reached full maturity: it starts just under the jaw and significantly enhances their beauty. It extends down the throat and between the front legs, and is so wide that it protrudes beyond the chin.
The difference between the fancy and common rabbit in the back, independent of the ears, is sufficient to strike the common observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price; so much as five and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a first-rate doe. If young ones are first procured from a good family, the foundation of an excellent stock can be procured for a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping down, slope backwards: a rabbit with this characteristic is scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is not considered worth more than the common variety. The next position is when one ear lops outwards, and the other stands erect: rabbits of this kind possess but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful the colour, although they sometimes breed as good specimens as finer ones.
The difference between fancy and common rabbits in the back, aside from the ears, is noticeable to anyone. Fancy rabbits can sell for a high price; sometimes, a top-quality doe can go for five or ten guineas or even more. If you start with young rabbits from a good lineage, you can build an excellent stock for a much lower cost. Sometimes, instead of drooping down, the ears slope backwards: a rabbit with this trait is rarely included in fancy groups and is not considered worth more than the common type. The next situation is when one ear flops outwards, and the other stands up: rabbits like this have very little value, no matter how nice their shape or color is, although they can occasionally produce equally good offspring as the more expensive varieties.
The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the half-lop: the ears, in this case, slope forward and down over the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity are often perfect in other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and often become the parents of perfect young ones: does of this kind often have the power of lifting an ear erect. In the ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like the wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A great many excellent does have this characteristic, and some of the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely so. Sometimes a rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so neatly horizontally as to constitute an ear-lop: this is superior to all others, except the perfect fall, which is so rarely to be met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are considered as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other good qualities.
The forward or horn-lop is one step closer to perfection than the half-lop: in this case, the ears lean forward and down over the forehead. Rabbits with this trait are often perfect in other ways, aside from the drooping ears, and frequently produce perfect offspring. Does of this type can often lift one ear upright. In the ear-lop, the ears extend out to the side, like a bird's wings in flight or a swimmer's arms. Many excellent does have this feature, and some of the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely this way. Sometimes a rabbit will drop one ear completely but raise the other so nicely to the side that it qualifies as an ear-lop: this is considered better than all others, except for the perfect fall, which is so rarely seen that those with just ear-lops are regarded as valuable rabbits, provided they are well-bred and possess other good traits.
"The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek, slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards instead of perpendicular: when the animals stand in an easy position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of the ears, in a fancy rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them should remain in front: they should match exactly in their descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible."
"The real lop has ears that hang down by the sides of the cheeks, slanting slightly outward as they drop, with the open part of the ear facing inward, and sometimes tilting either backward or forward instead of straight down. When the animals are standing comfortably, the tips of their ears touch the ground. The insides of the ears in a top-quality fancy rabbit should be turned so far back that only the outer portion remains in front. They should match perfectly in how they hang and should angle outward as little as possible."
The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a breeder possessing twenty of the handsomest and most perfect does would consider himself lucky if, in the course of a year, he managed to raise twelve full-lopped rabbits out of them all. As regards variety and purity of colour an experienced breeder says:—
The same authority claims that perfect lops are so rare that a breeder with twenty of the most beautiful and perfect does would consider himself lucky if he could raise twelve fully lopped rabbits from them in a year. Regarding variety and color purity, an experienced breeder says:—
"The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour, and white, or black and white, or tawny and white, that is, tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much importance what colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those colours shall be arranged in a particular manner, forming imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects. Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by distinctive designations. What is termed 'the blue butterfly smut' was, for some time, considered the most valuable of fancy rabbits. It is thus named on account of having bluish or lead-coloured spots on either side of the nose, having some resemblance to the spread wings of a butterfly, what may be termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face being white. A black and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar manner, constituting a 'black butterfly smut.'
The fur of fancy rabbits can be blue, or rather a grayish-blue, and white, or black and white, or a mix of tawny and white, which is known as tortoiseshell. However, the specific colors of a rabbit's coat are less important than how those colors are arranged to create imaginary shapes or resemble certain objects. This is why the distinctive markings have special names. The one called 'the blue butterfly smut' was for a while considered the most valuable among fancy rabbits. It gets its name from the bluish or grayish spots on either side of the nose, which look a bit like the open wings of a butterfly, while the base color of the rabbit's face is white. A black and white rabbit can also have a similar pattern on its face, which is referred to as 'black butterfly smut.'
"But A good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without which it cannot be considered a perfect model of its kind. There should be a black or blue patch on its back, called the saddle; the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout; while the legs should be all white; and there ought to be dark stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the shoulders at the part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is termed the 'chain' having somewhat the appearance of a chain or collar hanging round the neck."
"But a good fancy rabbit must also have other features; without them, it can’t be considered a perfect example of its breed. There should be a black or blue patch on its back, known as the saddle; the tail must match the color of the back and snout; the legs should be entirely white; and there should be dark stripes on both sides of the body in front, extending back to meet the saddle, and coming together on top of the shoulders at the part called the withers, similar to a horse. These stripes create what is known as the 'chain,' resembling a chain or collar hanging around the neck."
"Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred will have all these markings clearly and exactly displayed on the coat; but the more nearly the figures on the coat of a rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be its value, so far, at least, as relates to colour. The beauty and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit, however, depends a good deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is said to have a good carriage when its back is finely arched, rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be held so low as for the muzzle and the points of the ears to reach almost to the ground."
"Among purebred fancy rabbits, maybe one in a hundred will have all these markings clearly and precisely shown on the coat; however, the closer the patterns on a rabbit's coat are to the described design, the more valuable it will be, at least in terms of color. The beauty and, therefore, the value of a fancy rabbit also depend a lot on its shape, or what is called its carriage. A rabbit is said to have good carriage when its back is nicely arched, rising at least two inches above the top of its head, which must be held low enough that the muzzle and the tips of the ears are nearly touching the ground."
STEWED RABBIT, Larded.
Larded stewed rabbit.
985. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than 1 pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry.
985. INGREDIENTS.—1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, just over 1 pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of sherry.
Mode.—Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them with Blips of bacon, and fry them; then put them into a stewpan with the broth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; simmer gently until the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, and serve. Garnish with slices of cut lemon.
Mode.—First, wash the rabbit and cut it into quarters. Lard the pieces with small bits of bacon and fry them. Next, place them in a stewpan with broth, herbs, and season with pepper and salt. Simmer gently until the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the sherry, bring it to a boil, pour it over the rabbit, and serve. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour.
Time.—Just over half an hour.
Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Average cost, 5p to 7.5p each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from September to February.
Available from September to February.
[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT.]
[Illustration: THE HARE-RABBIT.]
THE HARE-RABBIT.—There has been lately introduced to French tables an animal called the "Hare-rabbit," partaking of the nature, characteristics, and qualifications of both the hare and the rabbit. It is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh and flavour; and it is said to be the only hybrid which is able to perpetuate its race. We hope that some enterprising individual will soon secure for English, tables what would seem to be a really valuable addition to our other game and poultry dishes; although it will be rather difficult to exactly assign its proper position, as within or without the meaning of "game," as by law established. Only a few specimens have been seen in England at present, but there is no reason to doubt that our rabbit-fanciers will prove equal to the occasion, and cope successfully with our neighbours across the Channel in introducing a new animal serviceable in the kitchen.
THE HARE-RABBIT.—Recently, a new animal called the "Hare-rabbit" has made its way to French tables, combining the traits, characteristics, and qualities of both the hare and the rabbit. It is praised for its meat and flavor; in fact, it’s said to be the only hybrid that can reproduce. We hope that some enterprising individual will soon bring this valuable addition to our game and poultry dishes to English tables; although, it's going to be tricky to determine its exact classification, whether it fits within the legal definition of "game" or not. So far, only a few specimens have been spotted in England, but there's no reason to believe that our rabbit enthusiasts won't rise to the challenge and successfully introduce this new culinary animal, keeping up with our neighbors across the Channel.
[Illustration: ANGORA RABBIT.]
[Illustration: Angora Rabbit.]
THE ANGORA RABBIT.—This is one of the handsomest of all rabbits. It takes its name from being an inhabitant of Angora, a city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat and cat, both of which are valuable on account of the fineness of their wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long, waved, silky fur, which, as an article of commerce is highly esteemed. We are not aware whether it is eaten by the inhabitants, and but few specimens have been introduced into England, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat would materially suffer from the more humid and less genial character of the climate. To the rabbits of the ancient and mountainous district of Angora the words of the wise man would seem most to apply, "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their houses in the rocks."
THE ANGORA RABBIT.—This is one of the most beautiful rabbits. It gets its name from Angora, a city and region in Asia Minor. Like the well-known Angora goat and cat, both of which are valued for their fine wool and fur, this rabbit is valued for its long, wavy, silky fur, which is highly sought after in trade. We’re not sure if the locals eat it, and only a few have been brought to England, where its stunning coat would likely suffer from the more humid and less pleasant climate. To the rabbits from the ancient and mountainous region of Angora, the saying from the wise man seems particularly fitting: "The conies are but feeble folk, yet make they their houses in the rocks."
[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS.]
[Illustration: HIMALAYA RABBITS.]
THE HIMALAYA RABBIT.—Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains, whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow, which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet, perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world. It is, at present, a very rare animal in England, but will, doubtless, be more extensively known in the course of a few years. From the earth-tunnelling powers of this little animal, Martial declares that mankind learned the art of fortification, mining, and covered roads.
THE HIMALAYA RABBIT.—In the towering Himalaya mountains, whose peaks are the highest in the world, the charming rabbit shown here can be found; its color resembles the snow that perpetually covers the summits at altitudes between 13,000 and 16,000 feet. Currently, it is a very rare animal in England, but will surely become better known in the coming years. From the burrowing skills of this little creature, Martial stated that humans developed the techniques of fortification, mining, and covered roads.
BOILED TURKEY.
986. INGREDIENTS.—Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.
986. INGREDIENTS.—Turkey; stuffing No. 417.
Choosing and Trussing.—Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling, on account of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate size should be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode of cooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or 4 days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender. Pluck the bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white paper, wash it inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth. Cut off the head and neck, draw the strings or sinews of the thighs, and cut off the legs at the first joint; draw the legs into the body, fill the breast with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; run a skewer through the wing and the middle joint of the leg, quite into the leg and wing on the opposite side; break the breastbone, and make the bird look as round and as compact as possible.
Choosing and Trussing.—Hen turkeys are better for boiling because they are white and tender. You should pick one that’s medium-sized since a large one isn’t suitable for this cooking method. They shouldn’t be dressed until they have been dead for 3 or 4 days, as they won’t look white or be tender. Pluck the bird, carefully draw it, and singe it with a piece of white paper. Wash it inside and out, and wipe it dry with a cloth. Cut off the head and neck, pull the sinews of the thighs, and cut off the legs at the first joint. Tuck the legs into the body and fill the breast with forcemeat made according to recipe No. 417. Run a skewer through the wing and the middle joint of the leg, going all the way through to the leg and wing on the opposite side. Break the breastbone and shape the bird to look as round and compact as possible.
[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY.]
[Illustration: BOILED TURKEY.]
Mode.—Put the turkey into sufficient hot water to cover it; let it come to a boil, then carefully remove all the scum: if this is attended to, there is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured cloth; but it should be well covered with the water. Let it simmer very gently for about 1-1/2 hour to 1-3/4 hour, according to the size, and serve with either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or parsley-and-butter, a little of which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, tongue, or pickled pork, should always accompany this dish; and when oyster sauce is served, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster forcemeat.
Mode.—Place the turkey in enough hot water to fully cover it; bring it to a boil, then carefully skim off all the foam. If you do this, there's no need to cook the bird in a floured cloth; just make sure it's well submerged in the water. Let it simmer very gently for about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours, depending on its size, and serve it with either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom sauce, or a parsley and butter mixture, which should be poured over the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, tongue, or pickled pork should always accompany this dish; and when serving oyster sauce, the turkey should be stuffed with oyster forcemeat.
Time.—A small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; a large one, 1-3/4 hour.
Time.—A small turkey, 1.5 hours; a large one, 1.75 hours.
Average cost, 5s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. each, but more expensive at Christmas, on account of the great demand.
Average cost, 5s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. each, but pricier at Christmas due to high demand.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Good for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from December to February.
In season from December to February.
THE TURKEY.—The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to America, is certainly one of the most glorious presents made by the New World to the Old. Some, indeed, assert that this bird was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the wedding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been controverted by first-rate authorities, who declare that the French name of the bird, dindon, proves its origin; that the form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in America alone in a wild state. There is but little doubt, from the information which has been gained at considerable trouble, that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who had been sent out missionaries to the West; and that from France it spread over Europe. To this day, in many localities in France, a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of N. America, where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs which have been found, or from young ones caught in the woods: they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the continent and in England: in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10 out of 20 young turkeys lived; now, generally speaking, 15 out of the same number arrive at maturity.
THE TURKEY.—The turkey, a magnificent bird that we owe to America, is definitely one of the most impressive gifts the New World has given to the Old. Some argue that this bird was known to ancient times and was even served at Charlemagne's wedding feast. However, this view has been challenged by reputable experts who claim that the French name for the bird, dindon, indicates its foreign origin, and that its form is entirely unfamiliar, being found only in America in the wild. There is little doubt, based on the information gathered with considerable effort, that it appeared generally in Europe around the end of the 17th century; it was first brought to France by Jesuit missionaries sent to the West, from where it spread throughout Europe. To this day, in many regions of France, a turkey is referred to as a Jesuit. On farms in North America, where turkeys are quite common, they are raised either from found eggs or from young ones captured in the woods, thus largely preserving their original plumage. The turkey gradually adapted to both the continent and England; in the mid-18th century, barely 10 out of 20 young turkeys survived, whereas now, typically, 15 out of that same number reach maturity.
CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).
CROQUETTES OF TURKEY (Cold Meat Cooking).
987. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold turkey; to every 1/2 lb. of meat allow 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs.
987. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold turkey; for every 1/2 lb. of meat, use 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shallots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoon of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, plus egg and bread crumbs.
Mode.—The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassée or hash, answer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or bacon in the above proportion; make a gravy of the bones and trimmings, well seasoning it; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan with the butter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and about 1/2 pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the butter must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of mince.) When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; put the mixture out to cool, and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put small pieces of parsley-stems for stalks, and serve with, rolled bacon cut very thin.
Mode.—The smaller pieces that aren't suitable for a fricassée or hash work great for this dish. Finely chop the meat with ham or bacon in the same ratio; make a gravy from the bones and trimmings, seasoning it well; finely chop the shallots, put them in a saucepan with the butter, add the flour; mix thoroughly, then add the minced meat and about 1/2 pint of the gravy from the bones. (Adjust the amount of butter based on the quantity of meat.) Once it’s just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs; let the mixture cool, then shape it using a wineglass. Coat the croquettes with egg and breadcrumbs, then fry them until they’re a delicate brown. Use small pieces of parsley stems for stalks, and serve with thinly sliced rolled bacon.
Time.—8 minutes to fry the croquettes.
Time.—It takes 8 minutes to fry the croquettes.
Seasonable from December to February.
Seasonable from December to February.
THE WILD TURKEY.—In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious, going together in extensive flocks, numbering as many as five hundred. These frequent the great swamps of America, where they roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the dry woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the boughs of trees, and, by rising from branch to branch, attain the height they desire. They usually mount to the highest tops, apparently from an instinctive conception that the loftier they are the further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but run with great swiftness, and, about the month of March become so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three or four hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a horseman. Now, however, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are seen in the inhabited parts of America. It is only in the distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great numbers.
THE WILD TURKEY.—In the wild, turkeys are social animals, often forming large flocks of up to five hundred. They typically inhabit the vast swamps of America, where they roost, but at sunrise, they leave these areas to head to dry woods in search of berries and acorns. They perch on tree branches and move from branch to branch to reach their desired height. They usually go to the highest branches, seemingly instinctively knowing that being higher keeps them safer from predators. They fly clumsily, but they run very quickly, and around March, they become so fat that they can't fly more than three or four hundred yards, making them easy targets for horsemen. Nowadays, it's rare to see wild turkeys in populated areas of America; they are mostly found in remote and less frequented locations.
FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).
FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cooking).
988. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey; a strip of lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg.
988. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast or boiled turkey; a piece of lemon peel, a handful of savory herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoons of cream, the yolk of an egg.
Mode.—Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel, herbs, onion, pepper, salt, add the water; stew for an hour, strain the gravy, and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add the cream and the yolk of an egg; stir it well round, and, when getting thick, take out the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish the fricassée with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or cucumbers, cut into small pieces, may be put into the sauce; if the former, it must be boiled first.
Mode.—Slice some nice pieces from the leftover cold turkey and put the bones and trimmings into a pot along with lemon peel, herbs, onion, pepper, and salt; add water. Let it simmer for an hour, then strain the gravy and add the turkey pieces. Once warmed through, mix in the cream and the yolk of an egg; stir well, and when it starts to thicken, take out the pieces, place them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish the fricassée with toasted bread pieces. You can also add small pieces of celery or cucumbers to the sauce; if you use celery, it should be boiled first.
Time.—1 hour to make the gravy.
Time.—1 hour to prepare the gravy.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4d.
Average cost, not including the cold turkey, 4d.
Seasonable from December to February.
Seasonal from December to February.
THE TURKEY.—This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the principal genera of which are Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks, Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on the ground, scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and grains, which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their crops. They usually associate in families, consisting of one male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the seeds of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison them. The common turkey is a native of North America, and, in the reign of Henry VIII., was introduced into England. According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," it began about the year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas feasts:—
THE TURKEY.—This is one of the poultry birds, with the main types including Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks, Bustards, Pintails, and Grouse. They mostly live on the ground, scratching the earth with their feet, and eating seeds and grains, which are broken down in their crops before digestion. They typically form family groups, consisting of one male and several females. Turkeys particularly enjoy the seeds of nettles, but the seeds of the foxglove can be toxic to them. The common turkey is native to North America and was introduced to England during the reign of Henry VIII. According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," it started appearing on the menu at our rural Christmas feasts around 1585:—
"Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest;
Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
As then in the country is counted good cheer."
"Beef, lamb, and pork, the best meat pies,
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey prepared just right;
Cheese, apples, and nuts, cheerful carols to enjoy,
As it’s considered good times in the countryside."
The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its
flesh is much esteemed.
The turkey is one of the hardest birds to raise, and its
meat is highly valued.
THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY.—Among themselves, turkeys are extremely furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock frequently makes them keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack him but in a united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight than defeated by their prowess. The disposition of the female is in general much more gentle than that of the male. When leading forth her young to collect their food, though so large and apparently so powerful a bird, she gives them very slight protection from the attacks of any rapacious animal which may appear against them. She rather warns them of their danger than offers to defend them; yet she is extremely affectionate to her young.
THE DISPOSITION OF THE TURKEY.—Among themselves, turkeys are very aggressive, but when it comes to other animals, they tend to be weak and fearful. The domestic rooster often keeps them at bay, and they will rarely attack him unless they are all together, when they are more likely to overwhelm him with their weight than actually defeat him in a fight. Generally, the female turkey is much gentler than the male. When she takes her young out to gather food, despite being a large and seemingly strong bird, she provides very little protection against any predators that might come after them. Instead of defending them, she mainly warns them of danger; however, she is extremely affectionate toward her young.
HASHED TURKEY.
989. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.
989. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover cold roast turkey, 1 onion, pepper and salt to taste, just over 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 blade of mace, a handful of savory herbs, 1 tablespoon of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoon of port wine, thickening made of butter and flour.
Mode.—Cut the turkey into neat joints; the best pieces reserve for the hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with an onion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, and water in the above proportion; simmer these for an hour, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with ketchup and port wine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm through; if there is any stuffing left, put that in also, as it so much improves the flavour of the gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Cut the turkey into neat pieces; save the best ones for the hash, and put the lesser pieces and trimmings into a saucepan with a sliced onion, pepper, salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs, and water in the same amounts as before; let these simmer for an hour, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, season with ketchup and port wine, and add the turkey pieces to warm them up; if there's any stuffing left, add that too, as it really enhances the flavor of the gravy. When it boils, serve it and garnish the dish with pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—1 hour to make the gravy.
Time.—1 hour to prepare the gravy.
Seasonable from December to February.
Seasonal from December to February.
HUNTING TURKEYS.—Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one of the principal diversions of the natives of that country. When they discovered the retreat of the birds, which was generally near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was plentiful, they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of the flock. The turkeys no sooner perceived their enemy than they would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness that they would leave the dog far behind. He, however, would follow in their wake, and as they could not, for a great length of time, continue at their speed, they were at last forced to seek shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with fatigue, till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock them down one after the other.
HUNTING TURKEYS.—In Canada, hunting turkeys used to be one of the main pastimes for the local people. When they found the birds’ hiding spots, usually near a patch of nettles or a place abundant with grain, they'd send a well-trained dog into the middle of the flock. As soon as the turkeys noticed the dog, they would take off in a hurry, running so fast that they quickly left the dog behind. Nonetheless, the dog would keep chasing them, and since the turkeys couldn't maintain that speed for long, they eventually had to take refuge in the trees. There, they would rest, exhausted, until the hunters got close enough to knock them down one by one with long poles.
ROAST TURKEY.
990. INGREDIENTS.—Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.
990. INGREDIENTS.—Turkey; stuffing No. 417.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose cock turkeys by their short spurs and black legs, in which case they are young; if the spurs are long, and the legs pale and rough, they are old. If the bird has been long killed, the eyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry; but, if fresh, the contrary will be the case. Middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by many persons considered superior to those of an immense growth, as they are, generally speaking, much more tender. They should never be dressed the same day they are killed; but, in cold weather, should hang at least 8 days; if the weather is mild, 4 or 5 days will be found sufficient. Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white paper, and wipe it thoroughly with a cloth; draw it, preserve the liver and gizzard, and be particular not to break the gall-bag, as no washing will remove the bitter taste it imparts where it once touches. Wash it inside well, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth; the outside merely requires nicely wiping, as we have just stated. Cut off the neck close to the back, but leave enough of the crop-skin to turn over; break the leg-bone close below the knee, draw out the strings from the thighs, and flatten the breastbone to make it look plump. Have ready a forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; fill the breast with this, and, if a trussing-needle is used, sew the neck over to the back; if a needle is not at hand, a skewer will answer the purpose. Run a skewer through the pinion and thigh into the body to the pinion and thigh on the other side, and press the legs as much as possible between the breast and the side bones, and put the liver under one pinion and the gizzard under the other. Pass a string across the back of the bird, catch it over the points of the skewer, tie it in the centre of the back, and be particular that the turkey is very firmly trussed. This may be more easily accomplished with a needle and twine than with skewers.
Choosing and Trussing.—When selecting male turkeys, look for short spurs and black legs, which indicate they are young. Long spurs and pale, rough legs suggest they are old. If the turkey has been dead for a while, its eyes will be sunken and feet very dry; if it's fresh, the opposite will be true. Many people consider medium-sized, meaty turkeys to be better than those that are very large, as they tend to be much more tender. Turkeys should not be dressed on the same day they are killed; in cold weather, they should hang for at least 8 days, while in mild weather, 4 to 5 days should be enough. Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white paper, and wipe it thoroughly with a cloth; then draw it, saving the liver and gizzard, and be careful not to break the gall-bag, as its bitter taste cannot be washed away. Wash the inside well, and dry it thoroughly with a cloth; the outside just needs a good wipe down, as previously mentioned. Cut off the neck close to the back, leaving enough of the crop skin to fold over. Break the leg bone just below the knee, remove the tendons from the thighs, and flatten the breastbone to make it look plump. Prepare a forcemeat following recipe No. 417; fill the breast with this mixture, and if you have a trussing needle, sew the neck to the back; if not, a skewer will work. Insert a skewer through the wing and thigh into the body, connecting to the opposite wing and thigh, pressing the legs as tightly as possible between the breast and side bones, and place the liver under one wing and the gizzard under the other. Pass a string across the back of the bird, catch it over the skewer points, tie it in the center of the back, and ensure the turkey is securely trussed. It's often easier to do this with a needle and twine than with skewers.
[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]
[Illustration: ROASTED TURKEY.]
Mode.—Fasten a sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the bird, put it down to a bright fire, at some little distance at first (afterwards draw it nearer), and keep it well basted the whole of the time it is cooking. About 1/4 hour before serving, remove the paper, dredge the turkey lightly with flour, and put a piece of butter into the basting-ladle; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When of a nice brown and well frothed, serve with a tureen of good brown gravy and one of bread sauce. Fried sausages are a favourite addition to roast turkey; they make a pretty garnish, besides adding very much to the flavour. When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat balls should be placed round the dish as a garnish. Turkey may also be stuffed with sausage-meat, and a chestnut forcemeat with the same sauce is, by many persons, much esteemed as an accompaniment to this favourite dish.—See coloured plate, A1.
Mode.—Attach a sheet of buttered paper to the breast of the bird, place it near a bright fire, starting at a distance at first (then move it closer), and keep it well basted while it cooks. About 15 minutes before serving, take off the paper, lightly dust the turkey with flour, and add a piece of butter to the basting ladle; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When it’s a nice brown and well-frothed, serve it with a bowl of good brown gravy and one of bread sauce. Fried sausages are a popular addition to roast turkey; they make a nice garnish and enhance the flavor. If these aren’t available, a few sausage balls should be arranged around the dish as a garnish. Turkey can also be stuffed with sausage meat, and many people enjoy chestnut stuffing with the same sauce as a complement to this beloved dish.—See colored plate, A1.
Time.—Small turkey, 1-1/2 hour; moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs., 2 hours; large turkey, 2-1/2 hours, or longer.
Time.—Small turkey, 1.5 hours; medium-sized one, around 10 lbs., 2 hours; large turkey, 2.5 hours or longer.
Average cost, from 10s. to 12s., but expensive at Christmas, on account of the great demand.
Average cost, from 10 to 12 shillings, but pricey during Christmas due to high demand.
Sufficient.—A moderate-sized turkey for 7 or 8 persons.
Sufficient.—A medium-sized turkey for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from December to February.
In season from December to February.
ENGLISH TURKEYS.—These are reared in great numbers in Suffolk, Norfolk, and several other counties, whence they were wont to be driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds; the improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge. There are three varieties of the turkey in this country,—the black, the white, and the speckled, or copper-coloured. The black approaches nearest to the original stock, and is esteemed the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing, and of excellent flavour; it greatly deteriorates with age, however, and is then good for little but stewing.
ENGLISH TURKEYS.—These are raised in large numbers in Suffolk, Norfolk, and a few other counties, where they used to be driven to the London market in flocks of several hundred. However, improvements in our travel methods now allow them to be transported by train. The drivers used to handle them easily with a piece of red cloth tied to the end of a long stick, which, due to these birds' aversion to that color, effectively served as a sort of whip. There are three types of turkey in this country—the black, the white, and the speckled or copper-colored. The black turkey is closest to the original stock and is considered the best. Its meat is white, tender, delicate, nourishing, and has an excellent flavor; however, it deteriorates significantly with age and is mostly good for stewing.
ROAST TURKEY POULTS.
991. INGREDIENTS.—Turkey poult; butter.
991. INGREDIENTS.—Turkey; butter.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose a plump bird, and truss it in the following manner:—After it has been carefully plucked, drawn, and singed, skin the neck, and fasten the head under the wing; turn the legs at the first joint, and bring the feet close to the thighs, as a woodcock should be trussed, and do not stuff it.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose a plump bird and prepare it like this: After it has been properly plucked, cleaned, and singed, remove the skin from the neck and tuck the head under the wing; bend the legs at the first joint and pull the feet close to the thighs, just like you would truss a woodcock, and don't stuff it.
Mode.—Put it down to a bright fire, keep it well basted, and at first place a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too much colour. About 10 minutes before serving, dredge it lightly with flour, and baste well; when nicely frothed, send it to table immediately, with a little gravy in the dish, and some in a tureen. If at hand, a few water-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a garnish, or it may be larded.
Method.—Place it by a bright fire, keep it well basted, and initially put a piece of paper on the breast to prevent it from getting too brown. About 10 minutes before serving, lightly dust it with flour and baste it well; when it's nicely frothy, serve it immediately, with some gravy in the dish and extra in a tureen. If available, you can add a few watercress around the turkey as a garnish, or it can be larded.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 7s. to 8s. each.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 7s. to 8s. each.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable.—In full season from June to October.
Seasonable.—Available in season from June to October.
THE FUTURE OF THE TURKEY.—Human ingenuity subjects almost every material to the purposes of ornament or use and the feathers of turkeys have been found adapted for more ends than one. The American Indians convert then into an elegant clothing, and, by twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string, with hemp or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, work it like matting. This fabric has a very rich and glossy appearance and is as fine as silk shag. The natives of Louisiana used to make fans of the tail; and four of that appendage joined together was formerly constructed into a parasol by the French.
THE FUTURE OF THE TURKEY.—Human creativity has turned almost every material into something decorative or useful, and turkey feathers have been adapted for various purposes. Native Americans use them to create elegant clothing, and by twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string with hemp or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, they weave it into a mat-like fabric. This material has a rich and glossy look and is as fine as silk shag. The people of Louisiana used to make fans from the tail feathers, and the French once combined four of those feathers to create a parasol.
TO BONE A TURKEY OR FOWL WITHOUT OPENING IT.
(Miss Acton's Recipe.)
Miss Acton's Recipe
992. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and out with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut through the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first from the lower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of the breastbone, if necessary; work the knife gradually to the socket of the thigh; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it, take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean from it down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the knife carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut round the next bone, keeping; the edge of the knife close to it, until the whole of the leg is done. Remove the bones of the other leg in the same manner; then detach the flesh from the back—and breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the wings; proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint: it is usual to leave the pinions unboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the fowl when it is dressed. The merrythought and neck-bones may now easily be cut away, the back-and side-bones taken out without being divided, and the breastbone separated carefully from the flesh (which, as the work progresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the fowl, until it is completely inside out). After the one remaining bone is removed, draw the wings and legs back to their proper form, and turn the fowl right side outwards.
992. After the bird has been cleaned and singed, wipe it inside and out with a clean cloth, but don’t wash it. Remove the head, cut through the skin all around the first joint of the legs, and pull them from the bird to remove the large tendons. Start by loosening the flesh from the lower part of the backbone and a bit from the end of the breastbone if needed; then carefully work the knife towards the thigh socket. Use the point of the knife to detach the joint, hold the end of the bone firmly in your fingers, and slice the flesh clean from it down to the next joint. Gently pass the knife around the next bone, keeping the edge close to it, until the whole leg is done. Remove the bones from the other leg the same way. Next, detach the flesh from the back and breastbone enough to reach the upper joints of the wings; treat these like the legs, but be especially careful not to pierce the skin of the second joint: it’s common to leave the pinions unboned to allow the bird to maintain its natural shape when dressed. Now, you can easily cut away the merrythought and neck bones, take out the back and side bones without dividing them, and carefully separate the breastbone from the flesh (which, as you continue, must be turned back from the bones onto the bird until it’s completely inside out). After removing the last bone, pull the wings and legs back into their proper shape, and turn the bird right side out.
993. A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner; but as it requires a very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the logs and wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the expense of this. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may be either boiled, or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after being boned and forced; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may burst.
993. A turkey is deboned in the same way; however, since it needs a lot of stuffing to fill it completely, the legs and wings are sometimes pulled into the body to cut down on costs. If it's tightly trussed and sewn, the bird can be boiled or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted after being deboned and stuffed; but it needs to be cooled very gently, or it might burst.
ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A TURKEY OR FOWL. (Miss Acton's Recipe.)
ANOTHER WAY TO BONE A TURKEY OR CHICKEN. (Miss Acton's Recipe.)
994. Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise the flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice has been gained, it will perhaps be bettor to bone these joints before proceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the whole of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken out entire: only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain to be removed. The bird thus prepared may either be restored to its original form, by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the body with the livers of two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers of parboiled tongue freed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal forcemeat, or thin slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good flavour, which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is carved; and then be sewn up and trussed as usual; or the legs and wings may be drawn inside the body, and the bird being first flattened on a table, may be covered with sausage-meat, and the various other ingredients we have named, so placed that it shall be of equal thickness in every part; then tightly rolled, bound firmly together with a fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at both ends, and dressed as follows:—Put it into a braising-pan, stewpan, or thick iron saucepan, bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly as may be to its size; add all the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, two bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, and any trimmings or bones of undressed veal which may be at hand; cover the whole with good veal broth, add salt, if needed, and stew it very softly, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; let it cool in the liquor in which it was stewed; and after it is lifted out, boil down the gravy to a jelly and strain it; let it become cold, clear off the fat, and serve it cut into large dice or roughed, and laid round the fowl, which is to be served cold. If restored to its form, instead of being rolled, it must be stewed gently for an hour, and may then be sent to table hot, covered with mushroom, or any other good sauce that may be preferred; or it may be left until the following day, and served garnished with the jelly, which should be firm, and very clear and well-flavoured: the liquor in which a calf's foot has been boiled down, added to the broth, will give it the necessary degree of consistence.
994. Cut through the skin down the middle of the back, and carefully lift the flesh on either side with the point of a sharp knife until you reach the sockets for the wings and thighs. Until you've had a bit more practice, it might be better to detach these joints before moving on; but once they're separated, you can easily take out the entire body. You’ll only need to remove the neck bones and the merrythought afterward. The bird can be prepared in one of two ways: you can restore it to its original shape by filling the legs and wings with stuffing, and the body with the livers of two or three chickens, mixed with layers of parboiled tongue (peeled), fine sausage meat, or veal stuffing, or thin slices of good bacon, or any other flavorful ingredients that will create a marbled effect when the bird is carved; then sew it up and truss it as usual. Alternatively, you can tuck the legs and wings inside the body, flatten the bird on a table, cover it with sausage meat and the other ingredients so that it has an even thickness throughout; then tightly roll it up, bind it securely with a wide tape, wrap it in a thin cloth, tying both ends neatly. Cook it by placing it in a braising pan, a stew pot, or a thick iron saucepan that fits its size closely; add all the chicken bones, a bunch of fresh herbs, two carrots, two bay leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four white peppercorns, and any residual veal trimmings or bones you have. Cover everything with good veal broth, add salt if needed, and let it simmer very gently for about an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Let it cool in the cooking liquid; once it’s out, reduce the gravy to a jelly and strain it. Once cold, skim off the fat and serve it cut into large dice or roughly chopped, arranged around the cold fowl. If you restored it to its shape instead of rolling it, simmer it gently for an hour, and you can serve it hot with mushroom sauce or any sauce you prefer; or you can wait until the next day and serve it garnished with the jelly, which should be firm, clear, and well-flavored. Adding the liquid from boiled calf's foot to the broth will give it the right consistency.
TO BONE FOWLS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES.
TO BONE CHICKENS FOR FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES.
995. First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; hold this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the recipe above. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any instructions.
995. First, completely cut them into joints, then take out the bones, starting with the legs and wings, at the top of the largest bone; hold this with your fingers and use the knife as described in the recipe above. The rest of the birds is simple enough that it doesn't need any instructions.
TO DRESS WHEATEARS.
996. INGREDIENTS.—Wheatears; fresh butter.
996. INGREDIENTS.—Wheatears; fresh butter.
Mode.—After the birds are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them like larks, put them down to a quick fire, and baste them well with fresh butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish them on fried bread crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon.
Mode.—After the birds are plucked, gutted, and cleaned, tie them up like larks, place them over a hot fire, and baste them generously with fresh butter. When they’re done, which will take about 20 minutes, serve them on fried bread crumbs, and decorate the dish with slices of lemon.
Time.—20 minutes.
Duration.—20 minutes.
Seasonable from July to October.
In season from July to October.
THE WHEATEAR.—The wheatear is an annual visitor of England: it arrives about the middle of March and leaves in September. The females come about a fortnight before the males, and continue to arrive till the middle of May. They are in season from July to October, and are taken in large numbers on the South Downs, in the neighbourhood of Eastbourne, Brighton, and other parts of Sussex. They are taken by means of snares and nets, and numbers of them are eaten on the spot by the inhabitants. The larger ones are sent to London and potted, where they are by many as much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent. Mr. Pennant assigns as the reason of their abounding on the downs about Eastbourne, the existence of a species of fly which forms their favourite food, and which feeds on the wild thyme on the adjacent hills.
THE WHEATEAR.—The wheatear is a seasonal visitor in England: it arrives around the middle of March and stays until September. The females show up about two weeks before the males, continuing to arrive until mid-May. They are in season from July to October and are caught in large quantities on the South Downs, near Eastbourne, Brighton, and other areas of Sussex. They are captured using snares and nets, and many are eaten fresh by local residents. The larger ones are sent to London to be preserved in pots, where they are as highly regarded by some as the ortolans from the continent. Mr. Pennant suggests that the reason for their abundance on the downs near Eastbourne is the presence of a type of fly that is their favorite food, which feeds on the wild thyme on the nearby hills.
[Illustration: THE GUINEA-PIG.]
[Illustration: THE GUINEA-PIG.]
997. THE GUINEA-PIG.—This common hutch-companion of the rabbit, although originally a native of Brazil, propagates freely in England and other European countries. Were it not that they suffer cruelly from cats, and numerous other enemies, and that it is the habit of the males to devour their own offspring, their numbers would soon become overwhelming. Rats, however, it is said, carefully avoid them; and for this reason they are frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers, by way of protection for their young stock against those troublesome vermin. The lower tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent quarters by the guinea-pig: here, as he runs loose, he will devour the waste food of his more admired companion. Home naturalists assert that the guinea-pig will breed at two months old, the litter varying from four to twelve at a time. It is varied in colour,—white, fawn, and black, and a mixture of the three colours, forming a tortoiseshell, which is the more generally admired hue. Occasionally, the white ones have red eyes, like those of the ferret and the white rabbit. Their flesh, although eatable, is decidedly unfit for food; they have been tasted, however, we presume by some enthusiast eager to advance the cause of science, or by some eccentric epicure in search of a new pleasure for his palate. Unless it has been that they deter rats from intruding within the rabbit-hutch, they are as useless as they are harmless. The usual ornament of an animal's hind quarters is denied them; and were it not for this fact, and also for their difference in colour, the Shaksperean locution, "a rat without a tail," would designate them very properly.
997. THE GUINEA-PIG.—This common pet that shares a hutch with rabbits, although originally from Brazil, reproduces freely in England and other European countries. If it weren’t for the fact that they suffer greatly from cats and other predators, and that male guinea-pigs often eat their own young, their population would quickly become overwhelming. Rats, however, are said to carefully steer clear of them; therefore, they are often kept by rabbit breeders to protect their young from those bothersome pests. The bottom level of a rabbit hutch is considered a great spot for guinea-pigs: running around freely, they will eat the leftover food of their more popular companion. Local naturalists claim that guinea-pigs can reproduce at just two months old, with litters ranging from four to twelve at a time. They come in a variety of colors—white, fawn, and black—as well as combinations of these, creating a tortoiseshell pattern, which is the most admired shade. Sometimes, the white ones have red eyes, similar to those of ferrets and white rabbits. While their meat is technically edible, it is definitely not suitable for food; however, it seems some enthusiasts might have tasted them in the name of science or some quirky food lover looking for a new culinary experience. Unless they help keep rats away from the rabbit hutch, they are as useless as they are harmless. They lack the usual tail that animals have; if it weren’t for this fact and their color differences, one could very well describe them with the Shakespearean phrase, "a rat without a tail."
[Illustration: THE CYGNET.]
[Illustration: THE CYGNET.]
998. THE CYGNET.—The Cygnet, or the young Swan, was formerly
much esteemed; but it has "fallen from its high estate," and is
now rarely seen upon the table. We are not sure that it is not
still fattened in Norwich for the corporation of that place.
Persons who have property on the river there, take the young
birds, and send them to some one who is employed by the
corporation, to be fed; and for this trouble he is paid, or was
wont to be paid, about half a guinea a bird. It is as the future
bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is mostly
admired; when it has become old enough to grace the waters, then
it is that all admire her, when she with
"Archèd neck,
Between her white wings mantling,
proudly rows
Her state with oary feet."
998. THE CYGNET.—The Cygnet, or young Swan, used to be highly valued; however, it has "fallen from its high estate" and is now rarely seen on menus. We’re not sure if it’s still fattened in Norwich for the local corporation. People with property along the river there catch the young birds and send them to someone who works for the corporation to be fed; for this service, he used to be paid about half a guinea per bird. It’s mainly as the future bird of elegance and grace that the young swan is admired; once it’s old enough to adorn the waters, everyone appreciates her, especially when she proudly glides along with her "Arched neck, Between her white wings mantling, proudly rows Her state with oary feet."
POULTRY CARVING.
ROAST DUCK.
[Illustration: ROAST DUCK.]
[Illustration: Roast Duck.]
999. No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in their carving as do game and poultry; for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the anatomy of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly the proper point. A tough fowl and an old goose are sad triers of a carver's powers and temper, and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour of those in the neighbourhood of the carver; for a sudden tilt of the dish may eventuate in the placing a quantity of the gravy in the lap of the right or left-hand supporter of the host. We will endeavour to assist those who are unacquainted with the "gentle art of carving," and also those who are but slightly acquainted with it, by simply describing the rules to follow, and referring to the distinctly-marked Illustrations of each dish, which will further help to bring light to the minds of the uninitiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be carved like a fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg and the wing on either side, as described at No. 1000; but in cases where the duckling is very small, it will be as well not to separate the leg from the wing, as they will not then form too large a portion for a single serving. After the legs and wings are disposed of, the remainder of the duck will be also carved in the same manner as a fowl; and not much difficulty will be experienced, as ducklings are tender, and the joints are easily broken by a little gentle forcing, or penetrated by the knife. In cases where the duck is a large bird, the better plan to pursue is then to carve it like a goose, that is, by cutting pieces from the breast in the direction indicated by the lines marked from 1 to 2, commencing to carve the slices close to the wing, and then proceeding upwards from that to the breastbone. If more should be wanted than can be obtained from both sides of the breast, then the legs and wings must be attacked, in the same way as is described in connection with carving a fowl. It may be here remarked, that as the legs of a duck are placed far more backward than those of a fowl, their position causing the waddling motion of the bird, the thigh-bones will be found considerably nearer towards the backbone than in a chicken: this is the only difference worth mentioning. The carver should ask each guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable; and in order to get at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as shown by the line from 3 to 4, at the part called the "apron," and the spoon inserted. (As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan, when a couple of ducks are served, to have one with, and the other without stuffing.) As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said that "the wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer" are severally the best portions. Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck; and, in trussing, these should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone are here shown; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be when cut off.
999. No dishes require as much skill and knowledge to carve as game and poultry; you need to know the anatomy of the bird and animal to position the knife correctly. A tough bird or an old goose can be frustrating for a carver and, at times, even test the patience of those nearby, especially if the dish tips suddenly and spills gravy into the lap of the person next to the host. We aim to help those unfamiliar with the "art of carving," as well as those with only a little experience, by clearly outlining the steps to follow and referring to the illustrated guides for each dish, which will help clarify things for beginners. If you’re carving a young duckling, it can be done like a chicken: start by removing the leg and wing on each side, as detailed in No. 1000; however, if the duckling is very small, it’s better to keep the leg attached to the wing since that will make a more reasonable serving size. After taking off the legs and wings, carve the rest of the duck just like you would a chicken; it’s usually simple because ducklings are tender, and the joints can be easily separated with a little gentle pressure or cutting. If the duck is larger, it’s best to carve it like a goose: cut slices from the breast following the lines marked from 1 to 2, starting close to the wing and moving upward toward the breastbone. If you need more than what you can get from both sides of the breast, you can carve the legs and wings in the same manner as carving a chicken. Note that the legs of a duck are positioned further back than those of a chicken, which contributes to the duck’s waddling; the thigh bones will be much closer to the backbone compared to a chicken, and that’s the only notable difference. The carver should ask each guest if they would like some stuffing; to serve it, make a cut below the breast, following the line from 3 to 4, at the area called the "apron," and insert a spoon. (As mentioned in the recipe, when serving two ducks, it’s a good idea to have one with stuffing and the other without.) Regarding the best parts of a duck, it has been said that "the wing of a flier and the leg of a swimmer" are the finest. Some people enjoy the duck's feet, which should never be removed while trussing. The leg, wing, and neck bone are shown here, so you can see what their shape should be when cut off.
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF DUCK.]
BOILED FOWL.
[Illustration: BOILED FOWL.]
[Illustration: BOILED CHICKEN.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF FOWL.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECKBONE OF FOWL.]
1000. This will not be found a very difficult member of the poultry family to carve, unless, as may happen, a very old farmyard occupant, useless for egg-laying purposes, has, by some unlucky mischance, been introduced info the kitchen as a "fine young chicken." Skill, however, and the application of a small amount of strength, combined with a fine keeping of the temper, will even get over that difficulty. Fixing the fork firmly in the breast, let the knife be sharply passed along the line shown from 1 to 2; then cut downwards from that line to fig. 3; and the wing, it will be found, can be easily withdrawn. The shape of the wing should be like the accompanying engraving. Let the fork be placed inside the leg, which should be gently forced away from the body of the fowl; and the joint, being thus discovered, the carver can readily cut through it, and the leg can be served. When the leg is displaced, it should be of the same shape as that shown in the annexed woodcut. The legs and wings on either side having been taken off, the carver should draw his knife through the flesh in the direction of the line 4 to 5: by this means the knife can be slipped underneath the merrythought, which, being lifted up and pressed backward, will immediately come off. The collar—or neck-bones are the next to consider: these lie on each side of the merrythought, close under the upper part of the wings; and, in order to free these from the fowl, they must also be raised by the knife at their broad end, and turned from the body towards the breastbone, until the shorter piece of the bone, as shown in the cut, breaks off. There will now be left only the breast, with the ribs. The breast can be, without difficulty, disengaged from the ribs by cutting through the latter, which will offer little impediment. The side-bones are now to be taken off; and to do this, the lower end of the back should be turned from the carver, who should press the point of the knife through the top of the backbone, near the centre, bringing it down towards the end of the back completely through the bone. If the knife is now turned in the opposite direction, the joint will be easily separated from the vertebra. The backbone being now uppermost, the fork should be pressed firmly down on it, whilst at the same time the knife should be employed in raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the fork, and thus the back will be dislocated about its middle. The wings, breast, and merrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a fowl, and are usually served to the ladies of the company, to whom legs, except as a matter of paramount necessity, should not be given. Byron gave it as one reason why he did not like dining with ladies, that they always had the wings of the fowls, which he himself preferred. We heard a gentleman who, when he might have had a wing, declare his partiality for a leg, saying that he had been obliged to eat legs for so long a time, that he had at last come to like them better than the other more prized parts. If the fowl is, capon-like, very large, slices maybe carved from its breast in the same manner as from a turkey's.
1000. This isn’t going to be too hard to carve if it’s a regular chicken, unless, as sometimes happens, an old farm chicken that can’t lay eggs has been mistakenly brought into the kitchen as a “fine young chicken.” With a bit of skill and some effort, plus a calm attitude, you can handle that challenge. Start by firmly placing a fork in the breast, then use a sharp knife to slice along the line marked from 1 to 2; after that, cut downwards from that line to figure 3, and you’ll find that the wing can be easily removed. The wing should look like the illustration provided. Place the fork inside the leg, gently pulling it away from the chicken’s body; once you have access to the joint, the carver can easily slice through it to serve the leg. When the leg comes off, it should match the shape shown in the accompanying image. After removing the legs and wings from both sides, the carver should slide the knife through the meat along the line from 4 to 5. This allows the knife to slip underneath the merrythought, which can then be lifted and pulled backward until it separates easily. Next, consider the collar or neck bones, which are located on either side of the merrythought, close to the upper part of the wings. To detach these from the chicken, raise them from their thicker end with the knife and turn them away from the body toward the breastbone until the shorter piece of bone breaks off as shown in the illustration. You’ll be left with just the breast and the ribs. The breast can be easily separated from the ribs by cutting through the latter, which won’t be much of a hassle. Now remove the side bones; to do this, tilt the lower end of the back away from you, then push the knife through the top of the backbone, near the center, and cut down towards the end of the back, cutting all the way through the bone. If you turn the knife in the opposite direction now, the joint will come right off the vertebra. With the backbone on top, press the fork down firmly while using the knife to lift the lower small end of the chicken toward the fork, dislocating the back in the middle. The wings, breast, and merrythought are the prized parts of a chicken and are usually served to the ladies at the table. Legs should generally not go to them unless absolutely necessary. Byron once claimed that he disliked dining with ladies because they always took the wings, which he preferred himself. We once heard a man, when offered a wing, express a preference for a leg, saying he had eaten legs for so long that he eventually liked them better than the more desirable parts. If the chicken is very large like a capon, slices can be carved from its breast just like you would from a turkey.
ROAST FOWL.
[Illustration: ROAST FOWL.]
[Illustration: Roast Chicken.]
1001. Generally speaking, it is not necessary so completely to cut up a fowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs, unless, indeed, a large family party is assembled, and there are a number of "little mouths" to be filled, or some other such circumstances prevail. A roast fowl is carved in the same manner as a boiled fowl, No. 1000; viz., by cutting along the line from. 1 to 2, and then round the leg between it and the wing. The markings and detached pieces, as shown in the engravings under the heading of "Boiled Fowl," supersede the necessity of our lengthily again describing the operation. It may be added, that the liver, being considered a delicacy, should be divided, and one half served with each wing. In the case of a fowl being shifted, it will be proper to give each guest a portion, unless it be not agreeable to some one of the party.
1001. Generally, you don’t need to cut up a chicken as thoroughly as we described in the previous paragraphs, unless you're hosting a big family gathering and there are a lot of "little mouths" to feed, or similar situations. A roasted chicken is carved the same way as a boiled chicken, as outlined in No. 1000; that is, by cutting along the line from 1 to 2, and then around the leg between it and the wing. The markings and separate pieces shown in the illustrations under "Boiled Chicken" eliminate the need to explain the process again in detail. It’s worth mentioning that the liver, which is considered a delicacy, should be divided and served, with half alongside each wing. If a chicken is being served, it’s appropriate to give each guest a portion, unless someone in the group prefers not to have any.
ROAST GOOSE.
[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]
[Illustration: ROAST GOOSE.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE OF GOOSE.]
[Illustration: LEG, WING, AND NECK-BONE OF GOOSE.]
1002. It would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal of happiness to an inexperienced carver, especially if there is a large party to serve, and the slices off the breast should not suffice to satisfy the desires and cravings of many wholesome appetites, produced, may be, by the various sports in vogue at Michaelmas and Christmas. The beginning of the task, however, is not in any way difficult. Evenly-cut slices, not too thick or too thin, should be carved from the breast in the direction of the line from 2 to 3; after the first slice has been cut, a hole should be made with the knife in the part called the apron, passing it round the line, as indicated by the figures 1, 1, 1: here the stuffing is located, and some of this should be served on each plate, unless it is discovered that it is not agreeable to the taste of some one guest. If the carver manages cleverly, he will be able to cut a very large number of fine slices off the breast, and the more so if he commences close down by the wing, and carves upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone. As many slices as can be taken from the breast being carved, the wings should be cut off; and the same process as described in carving boiled fowl, is made use of in this instance, only more dexterity and greater force will most probably be required: the shape of the leg, when disengaged from the body of the goose, should be like that shown in the accompanying engraving. It will be necessary, perhaps, in taking off the leg, to turn the goose on its side, and then, pressing down the small end of the leg, the knife should be passed under it from the top quite down to the joint; the leg being now turned back by the fork, the knife must cut through the joint, loosening the thigh-bone from its socket. The merrythought, which in a goose is not so large as might be expected, is disengaged in the same way as that of a fowl—by passing the knife under it, and pressing it backwards towards the neck. The neck-bones, of which we give a cut, are freed by the same process as are those of a fowl; and the same may be said of all the other parts of this bird. The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed; all parts, however, are good, and full of juicy flavour.
1002. It wouldn’t be fair to say that this dish brings a lot of happiness to an inexperienced carver, especially when serving a large group, and the slices from the breast may not be enough to satisfy everyone’s appetites, which might be heightened by the various festivities during Michaelmas and Christmas. However, starting the task isn’t difficult at all. Evenly cut slices, not too thick or too thin, should be carved from the breast along the line from 2 to 3; after the first slice is made, a small hole should be created with the knife in the part called the apron, following the line indicated by the figures 1, 1, 1: this is where the stuffing is, and some should be served on each plate, unless it turns out that it doesn't appeal to someone’s taste. If the carver is skillful, he can carve a large number of nice slices from the breast, especially if he starts close to the wing and carves upward toward the ridge of the breastbone. After carving as many slices as possible from the breast, the wings should be cut off; the same method used for carving boiled chicken applies here, but it will likely require more skill and strength: the leg, once detached from the body of the goose, should look like the one shown in the accompanying image. It may be necessary to turn the goose on its side when removing the leg, then pressing down on the small end of the leg, the knife should be slid under it from the top all the way to the joint; with the leg now turned back by a fork, the knife must cut through the joint to loosen the thigh bone from its socket. The merrythought, which isn’t as large in a goose as you might expect, is removed in the same way as with a chicken—by sliding the knife under it and pushing it back toward the neck. The neck bones, which we also illustrate, are freed using the same technique as with a chicken, and the same goes for all the other parts of this bird. The breast of a goose is the most prized part; however, all parts are delicious and full of flavor.
PIGEON.
[Illustration: PIGEON.]
[Illustration: PIGEON.]
1003. A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon: the knife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from 1 to 2, entirely through the bird, cutting it into two precisely equal and similar parts. If it is necessary to make three pieces of it, a small wing should be cut off with the leg on either side, thus serving two guests; and, by this means, there will be sufficient meat left on the breast to send to the third guest.
1003. A very simple method is used to carve a pigeon: the knife is moved sharply along the line from 1 to 2, cutting all the way through the bird and splitting it into two equal and identical parts. If you need to make three pieces, you should cut off a small wing along with the leg on either side, which will serve two guests; this way, there will be enough meat left on the breast to serve the third guest.
RABBITS.
[Illustration: BOILED RABBIT.]
[Illustration: COOKED RABBIT.]
1004. In carving a boiled rabbit, let the knife be drawn on each side of the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, as shown by the dotted line 3 to 4: thus the rabbit will be in three parts. Now let the back be divided into two equal parts in the direction of the line from 1 to 2; then let the leg be taken off, as shown by the line 5 to 6, and the shoulder, as shown by the line 7 to 8. This, in our opinion, is the best plan to carve a rabbit, although there are other modes which are preferred by some.
1004. When carving a boiled rabbit, run the knife along each side of the backbone, all the way down the rabbit, as indicated by the dotted line 3 to 4; this will divide the rabbit into three sections. Next, split the back into two equal halves following the line from 1 to 2; then remove the leg, as shown by the line 5 to 6, and the shoulder, as illustrated by the line 7 to 8. We believe this is the best method for carving a rabbit, though there are alternative methods that some people prefer.
[Illustration: ROAST RABBIT.]
[Illustration: ROASTED RABBIT.]
A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to be boiled; but the carving is nearly similar, as will be seen by the cut. The back should be divided into as many pieces as it will give, and the legs and shoulders can then be disengaged in the same manner as those of the boiled animal.
A roast rabbit is prepared differently than one that's meant to be boiled, but the carving is quite similar, as shown by the cut. The back should be divided into as many pieces as possible, and the legs and shoulders can then be separated in the same way as those of the boiled rabbit.
ROAST TURKEY.
[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]
[Illustration: ROAST TURKEY.]
1005. A noble dish is a turkey, roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner, with the middle classes of this empire, would scarcely be a Christmas dinner without its turkey; and we can hardly imagine an object of greater envy than is presented by a respected portly pater-familias carving, at the season devoted to good cheer and genial charity, his own fat turkey, and carving it well. The only art consists, as in the carving of a goose, in getting from the breast as many fine slices as possible; and all must have remarked the very great difference in the large number of people whom a good carver will find slices for, and the comparatively few that a bad carver will succeed in serving. As we have stated in both the carving of a duck and goose, the carver should commence cutting slices close to the wing from, 2 to 3, and then proceed upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone: this is not the usual plan, but, in practice, will be found the best. The breast is the only part which is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cut off and eaten at table: they are usually removed to the kitchen, where they are taken off, as here marked, to appear only in a form which seems to have a special attraction at a bachelor's supper-table,—we mean devilled: served in this way, they are especially liked and relished.
1005. A classic dish is turkey, whether roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner for the middle class in this country wouldn’t feel complete without its turkey; and it’s hard to imagine a sight more envied than a respected, well-to-do dad carving his own plump turkey during the season of good food and generosity. The only skill involved, much like carving a goose, is getting as many nice slices as possible from the breast; and everyone has probably noticed the big difference between how many people a good carver can serve with slices versus the few that a poor carver can manage. As we mentioned in carving a duck and goose, the carver should start cutting slices close to the wing, from 2 to 3, and then work upwards towards the breastbone. This isn't the typical method, but it works best in practice. The breast is the only part of the turkey considered prime, as the legs are rarely cut off and served at the table; they’re usually taken to the kitchen, where they’re removed, as noted here, to later show up in a form that seems particularly appealing at a bachelor’s dinner table—devilled: prepared this way, they’re especially enjoyed.
A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted.
A boiled turkey is carved just like a roasted one.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXII.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME.
1006. THE COMMON LAW OF ENGLAND has a maxim, that goods, in which no person can claim any property, belong, by his or her prerogative, to the king or queen. Accordingly, those animals, those ferae naturae, which come under the denomination of game, are, in our laws, styled his or her majesty's, and may therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by the sovereign to another; in consequence of which another may prescribe to possess the same within a certain precinct or lordship. From this circumstance arose the right of lords of manors or others to the game within their respective liberties; and to protect these species of animals, the game laws were originated, and still remain in force. There are innumerable acts of parliament inflicting penalties on persons who may illegally kill game, and some of them are very severe; but they cannot be said to answer their end, nor can it be expected that they ever will, whilst there are so many persons of great wealth who have not otherwise the means of procuring game, except by purchase, and who will have it. These must necessarily encourage poaching, which, to a very large extent, must continue to render all game laws nugatory as to their intended effects upon the rustic population.
1006. THE COMMON LAW OF ENGLAND has a principle that goods that no one can claim ownership of, belong, by right, to the king or queen. Therefore, animals that are classified as game are referred to as belonging to their majesty, and can be granted by the sovereign to someone else; as a result, that person can claim the right to possess them within a specific area or lordship. This led to lords of manors or others having the right to game within their own territories, and to protect these animals, game laws were created and still exist today. There are countless laws that impose penalties on people who illegally hunt game, some of which are quite harsh; however, they can’t be said to achieve their purpose, nor is it realistic to expect them to, while there are many wealthy individuals who have no other way to obtain game than through purchase, and who will pursue it. This will inevitably encourage poaching, which will largely continue to make all game laws ineffective in their intended impact on the rural population.
1007. THE OBJECT OF THESE LAWS, however, is not wholly confined to the restraining of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified or privileged persons must not kill game at all seasons. During the day, the hours allowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise till one hour after sunset; whilst the time of killing certain species is also restricted to certain seasons. For example, the season for bustard-shooting is from December 1 to March 1; for grouse, or red grouse, from August 12 to December 10; heath-fowl, or black-game, from August 20 to December 20; partridges from September 1 to February 12; pheasants from October 1 to February 1; widgeons, wild ducks, wild geese, wild fowls, at any time but in June, July, August, and September. Hares may be killed at any time of the year, under certain restrictions defined by an act of parliament of the 10th of George III.
1007. THE OBJECT OF THESE LAWS, however, is not just to limit illegal hunters. Even licensed or privileged individuals can't hunt game at any time. During the day, hunting hours are from one hour before sunrise to one hour after sunset; additionally, the hunting of certain species is also restricted to particular seasons. For instance, the hunting season for bustards is from December 1 to March 1; for grouse, or red grouse, it’s from August 12 to December 10; for heath-fowl, or black-game, it's from August 20 to December 20; partridges from September 1 to February 12; pheasants from October 1 to February 1; widgeons, wild ducks, wild geese, and wild fowl may be hunted at any time except in June, July, August, and September. Hares can be hunted at any time of the year, under certain restrictions defined by an act of parliament from the 10th of George III.
1008. THE EXERCISE OR DIVERSION OF PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS OF GAME is called hunting, which, to this day, is followed in the field and the forest, with gun and greyhound. Birds, on the contrary, are not hunted, but shot in the air, or taken with nets and other devices, which is called fowling; or they are pursued and taken by birds of prey, which is called hawking, a species of sport now fallen almost entirely into desuetude in England, although, in some parts, showing signs of being revived.
1008. The activity of pursuing game animals with four feet is called hunting, which is still practiced today in fields and forests with guns and greyhounds. On the other hand, birds are not hunted but shot in the air, or caught with nets and other methods, which is called fowling; or they are chased and captured by birds of prey, known as hawking. This type of sport has almost completely fallen out of fashion in England, although there are some areas where it shows signs of revival.
1009. IN PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED BEASTS, such as deer, boars, and hares, properly termed hunting, mankind were, from the earliest ages, engaged. It was the rudest and the most obvious manner of acquiring human support before the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced. It is an employment, however, requiring both art and contrivance, as well as a certain fearlessness of character, combined with the power of considerable physical endurance. Without these, success could not be very great; but, at best, the occupation is usually accompanied with rude and turbulent habits; and, when combined with these, it constitutes what is termed the savage state of man. As culture advances, and as the soil proportionably becomes devoted to the plough or to the sustenance of the tamer or more domesticated animals, the range of the huntsman is proportionably limited; so that when a country has attained to a high state of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement of the opulent. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhat different; for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with one of its most valuable materials of commerce.
1009. IN PURSUING FOUR-FOOTED ANIMALS, like deer, boars, and hares, known as hunting, people have been engaged since ancient times. It was the simplest and most obvious way for humans to secure food before agriculture had developed significantly. However, this activity requires skill and strategy, along with a certain level of courage and substantial physical endurance. Without these qualities, success would be limited; yet, even at its best, this work tends to be associated with rough and unruly behaviors, and when combined with these traits, it represents what we call the savage state of humanity. As society progresses and land becomes increasingly used for farming or for raising tamer animals, the area available for hunters decreases; therefore, in highly cultivated regions, hunting largely becomes a pastime for the wealthy. In contrast, the situation is different for fur-bearing animals, as they continue to meet the needs of civilization by providing one of its most valuable commercial resources.
1010. THE THEMES WHICH FORM THE MINSTRELSY OF THE EARLIEST AGES, either relate to the spoils of the chase or the dangers of the battle-field. Even the sacred writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunter before the Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia, became a skilful bow-man; and that David, when yet young, was not afraid to join in combat with the lion or the bear. The Greek mythology teems with hunting exploits. Hercules overthrows the Nemaean lion, the Erymanthean boar, and the hydra of Lerna; Diana descends to the earth, and pursues the stag; whilst Aesculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses, and Achilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, sage as he was, advises young men to apply themselves early to it; and Plato finds in it something divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exercise for the path of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardent votaries. The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks, and the ancient Britons were hunters before Julius Caesar invaded their shores.
1010. THE THEMES THAT MAKE UP THE MINSTREL TRADITIONS OF THE EARLY AGES relate to the spoils of the hunt or the dangers of the battlefield. Even the sacred texts introduce us to Nimrod, the first great hunter before the Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, alone in the Arabian wilderness, became a skilled archer, while David, as a youth, wasn’t afraid to fight the lion or the bear. Greek mythology is filled with hunting adventures. Hercules defeats the Nemean lion, the Erymanthian boar, and the hydra of Lerna; Diana comes down to earth to chase the stag; and Aesculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses, and Achilles are all dedicated hunters. Aristotle, wise as he was, advises young men to take up hunting early, and Plato sees it as something divine. Horace praises it as a preparatory exercise for the path to glory, and many of the heroes in Homer’s tales are passionate about it. The Romans adopted the hunting traditions of the Greeks, and the ancient Britons were hunters long before Julius Caesar came to their shores.
1011. ALTHOUGH THE ANCIENT BRITONS FOLLOWED HUNTING, however, they did not confine themselves solely to its pursuit. They bred cattle and tilled the ground, and, to some extent, indicated the rudimentary state of a pastoral and agricultural life; but, in every social change, the sports of the field maintained their place. After the expulsion of the Danes, and during the brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy, these were still followed: even Edward the Confessor, who would join in no other secular amusements, took the greatest delight, says William of Malmesbury, "to follow a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game, and to cheer them with his voice."
1011. ALTHOUGH THE ANCIENT BRITONS ENGAGED IN HUNTING, they didn’t limit themselves to just that. They raised cattle and farmed the land, showing the early stages of a pastoral and agricultural lifestyle. However, throughout all social changes, field sports continued to be popular. After the Danes were driven out and during the short revival of the Saxon monarchy, these activities were still pursued: even Edward the Confessor, who didn’t take part in any other secular pastimes, found the greatest joy, as William of Malmesbury recounts, "in following a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game, cheering them on with his voice."
1012. NOR WAS EDWARD the only English sovereign who delighted in the pleasures of the chase. William the Norman, and his two sons who succeeded him, were passionately fond of the sport, and greatly circumscribed the liberties of their subjects in reference to the killing of game. The privilege of hunting in the royal forests was confined to the king and his favourites; and in order that these umbrageous retreats might be made more extensive, whole villages were depopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and every means adopted that might give a sufficient amplitude of space, in accordance with the royal pleasure, for the beasts of the chase. King John was likewise especially attached to the sports of the field; whilst Edward III. was so enamoured of the exercise, that even during his absence at the wars in France, he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and as many hare-hounds, and every day amused himself either with hunting or hawking. Great in wisdom as the Scotch Solomon, James I., conceited himself to be, he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting, hawking, and shooting. Yea, it is oven asserted that his precious time was divided between hunting, the bottle, and his standish: to the first he gave his fair weather, to the second his dull, and to the third his cloudy. From his days down to the present, the sports of the field have continued to hold their high reputation, not only for the promotion of health, but for helping to form that manliness of character which enters so largely into the composition of the sons of the British soil. That it largely helps to do this there can be no doubt. The late duke of Grafton, when hunting, was, on one occasion, thrown into a ditch. A young curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out, "Lie still, my lord!" leapt over him, and pursued his sport. Such an apparent want of feeling might be expected to have been resented by the duke; but not so. On his being helped up by his attendant, he said, "That man shall have the first good living that falls to my disposal: had he stopped to have given me his sympathy, I never would have given him anything." Such was the manly sentiment of the duke, who delighted in the exemplification of a spirit similarly ardent as his own in the sport, and above the baseness of an assumed sorrow.
1012. NOR WAS EDWARD the only English king who enjoyed the pleasures of hunting. William the Norman and his two sons, who came after him, were passionate about the sport and severely restricted their subjects' rights regarding hunting game. The right to hunt in the royal forests was limited to the king and his favorites; to make these shaded areas larger, entire villages were cleared, places of worship were destroyed, and every effort was made to create enough space, according to royal preference, for the animals. King John also had a strong fondness for outdoor sports, while Edward III. loved it so much that even when he was away at war in France, he took with him sixty pairs of stag hounds and just as many hare hounds, and every day he entertained himself with hunting or falconry. James I., known for his wisdom, considered himself to be quite the sage, yet he was very much into hunting, falconry, and shooting. It is even said that he split his time between hunting, drinking, and writing: he dedicated nice days to the first, gloomy days to the second, and cloudy days to the last. From his time to now, outdoor sports have maintained their esteemed reputation, not only for promoting health but also for helping to develop the manliness of character that is prominent among the sons of Britain. It undoubtedly plays a significant role in this. The late Duke of Grafton, while hunting, was once thrown into a ditch. A young curate who was also hunting shouted, "Lie still, my lord!" jumped over him, and continued his pursuit. This apparent lack of concern might have upset the duke; however, it did not. When he was helped up by his attendant, he remarked, "That man shall have the first good position that becomes available: if he had stopped to show me sympathy, I would never have given him anything." Such was the noble sentiment of the duke, who appreciated the display of the same fervor for the sport as his own, transcending the triviality of feigned sympathy.
1013. THAT HUNTING HAS IN MANY INSTANCES BEEN CARRIED TO AN EXCESS is well known, and the match given by the Prince Esterhazy, regent of Hungary, on the signing of the treaty of peace with France, is not the least extraordinary upon record. On that occasion, there were killed 160 deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares, and 80 foxes: this was the achievement of one day. Enormous, however, as this slaughter may appear, it is greatly inferior to that made by the contemporary king of Naples on a hunting expedition. That sovereign had a larger extent of ground at his command, and a longer period for the exercise of his talents; consequently, his sport, if it can so be called, was proportionably greater. It was pursued during his journey to Vienna, in Austria, Bohemia, and Moravia; when he killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer, 1,145 does, 1,625 roebucks, 11,121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers, 16,354 hares, and 354 foxes. In birds, during the same expedition, he killed 15,350 pheasants and 12,335 partridges. Such an amount of destruction can hardly be called sport; it resembles more the indiscriminate slaughter of a battle-field, where the scientific engines of civilized warfare are brought to bear upon defenceless savages.
1013. IT'S WELL KNOWN THAT HUNTING HAS IN MANY CASES GONE TOO FAR, and the event hosted by Prince Esterhazy, the regent of Hungary, after the peace treaty with France, is among the most remarkable on record. On that occasion, they killed 160 deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares, and 80 foxes—all in a single day. However, as shocking as this kill may seem, it's far less than what the king of Naples managed during his hunting trip. That king had a larger area to hunt in and more time to use his skills; thus, his total haul, if you can call it that, was significantly greater. His hunting took place during his journey through Vienna, Austria, Bohemia, and Moravia; during which he killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer, 1,145 does, 1,625 roebucks, 11,121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers, 16,354 hares, and 354 foxes. In terms of birds, he also killed 15,350 pheasants and 12,335 partridges. Such a level of destruction can hardly be called sport; it’s more akin to the indiscriminate slaughter of a battlefield, where the advanced weapons of civilized warfare are unleashed on defenseless opponents.
1014. DEER AND HARES may be esteemed as the only four-footed animals now hunted in Britain for the table; and even those are not followed with the same ardour as they were wont to be. Still, there is no country in the world where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried to such an extent as in Great Britain, and where the pleasures of the chase are so well understood, and conducted on such purely scientific principles. The Fox, of all "the beasts of the field," is now considered to afford the best sport. For this, it is infinitely superior to the stag; for the real sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is sought for and found like other game which are pursued with hounds. In the case of finding an outlying fallow-deer, which is unharboured, in this manner, great sport is frequently obtained; but this is now rarely to be met with in Britain. In reference to hare-hunting, it is much followed in many parts of this and the sister island; but, by the true foxhunter, it is considered as a sport only fit to be pursued by women and old men. Although it is less dangerous and exciting than the fox-chase, however, it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding which the other requires.
1014. DEER AND HARES are now seen as the only four-legged animals hunted in Britain for food, and even those don’t attract the same enthusiasm as they used to. Still, there’s no other country in the world where horseback hunting is practiced to such an extent as in Great Britain, and where the joys of the chase are so well understood and conducted on such scientific principles. The fox, out of all "the beasts of the field," is now regarded as offering the best sport. It's infinitely better than the stag because a true sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is pursued and found like other game with hounds. Occasionally, finding an outlying fallow-deer that isn’t sheltered can provide great sport, but this is now a rare occurrence in Britain. As for hare-hunting, it's quite popular in many areas of this and the neighboring island; however, true foxhunters often view it as a sport suitable only for women and old men. Although hare-hunting is less dangerous and thrilling than fox-chasing, it has great appeal for those who aren’t keen on the hard riding that the latter entails.
1015. THE ART OF TAKING OR KILLING BIRDS is called "fowling," and is either practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or for a livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When practised as an amusement, it principally consists of killing them with a light firearm called a "fowling-piece," and the sport is secured to those who pursue it by the game laws. The other means by which birds are taken, consist in imitating their voices, or leading them, by other artifices, into situations where they become entrapped by nets, birdlime, or otherwise. For taking large numbers of birds, the pipe or call is the most common means employed; and this is done during the months of September and October. We will here briefly give a description of the modus operandi pursued in this sport. A thin wood is usually the spot chosen, and, under a tree at a little distance from the others, a cabin is erected, and there are only such branches left on the tree as are necessary for the placing of the birdlime, and which are covered with it. Around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches, also covered with birdlime. Having thus prepared all that is necessary, the birdcatcher places himself in the cabin, and, at sunrise and sunset, imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assistance. Supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated, immediately different kinds of birds will flock together at the cry of their common enemy, when, at every instant, they will be seen falling to the ground, their wings being of no use to them, from their having come in contact with the birdlime. The cries of those which are thus situated now attract others, and thus are large numbers taken in a short space of time. If owls were themselves desired to be taken, it is only during the night that this can be done, by counterfeiting the squeak of the mouse. Larks, other birds, and water-fowl, are sometimes taken by nets; but to describe fully the manner in which this is done, would here occupy too much space.
1015. THE ART OF CATCHING OR KILLING BIRDS is called "fowling," and is either done for fun by people of wealth or status, or for a living by those who use nets and other tools. When it's done for enjoyment, it mainly involves shooting them with a light firearm known as a "fowling-piece," and the activity is regulated by hunting laws. Other methods of catching birds include mimicking their calls or luring them into traps using various techniques so they get caught in nets, sticky substances, or in other ways. To catch large numbers of birds, the most common method is using a call or pipe, especially during September and October. We’ll briefly outline how this sport is carried out. A thin forest is typically chosen as the location, and a shelter is built a short distance from the trees. Only the branches necessary for applying the birdlime are left on the tree, and those are covered with it. Around the shelter, pathways with twisted perches, also smeared with birdlime, are set up. Once everything is prepared, the birdcatcher positions themselves in the shelter and, at dawn and dusk, mimics the call of a small bird beckoning others for help. If the call of an owl is imitated, various birds will gather in response to their common predator, and at that moment, they will be seen falling to the ground, unable to fly due to the birdlime. The cries of those caught will attract more birds, quickly leading to the capture of many in a short period. If the aim is to catch owls, this can only be done at night by imitating the sound of a mouse. Larks and other birds, along with waterfowl, are occasionally caught in nets, but detailing this process fully would take up too much space.
1016. FEATHERED GAME HAVE FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL given gratification to the palate of man. With the exception of birds of prey, and some other species, Moses permitted his people to eat them; and the Egyptians made offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds. The ancient Greeks commenced their repasts with little roasted birds; and feathered game, amongst the Romans, was served as the second course. Indeed, several of the ancient gourmands of the "imperial city" were so fond of game, that they brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes and pheasants. "Some modern nations, the French among others," says Monsieur Soyer, "formerly ate the heron, crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, and bittern. The first three especially were highly esteemed; and Laillevant, cook of Charles VII., teaches us how to prepare these meagre, tough birds. Belon says, that in spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, however, among the delicious treats of the French. This writer also asserts, that a falcon or a vulture, either roasted or boiled, is excellent eating; and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game, the falconer instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the heron a royal viand."
1016. FEATHERED GAME HAS, SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL, pleased the taste buds of humans. Except for birds of prey and a few other species, Moses allowed his people to eat them; and the Egyptians offered their finest birds to their priests. The ancient Greeks began their meals with small roasted birds, and among the Romans, feathered game was served as the second course. In fact, some of the ancient gourmands of the "imperial city" loved game so much that they ate themselves into ruin with flamingos and pheasants. "Some modern nations, the French among others," says Monsieur Soyer, "once ate herons, cranes, crows, storks, swans, cormorants, and bitterns. The first three, in particular, were highly valued; and Laillevant, the cook of Charles VII, teaches us how to prepare these lean, tough birds. Belon mentions that despite its off-putting taste to those unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, nonetheless, considered one of the delicacies of the French. This author also claims that a falcon or a vulture, whether roasted or boiled, is excellent to eat; and if one of these birds accidentally killed itself while chasing game, the falconer would cook it right away. Lebaut refers to the heron as a royal dish."
1017. THE HERON WAS HUNTED BY THE HAWK, and the sport of hawking is usually placed at the head of those amusements that can only be practised in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from its being a pastime to generally followed by the nobility, not in Great Britain only, but likewise on the continent. In former times, persons of high rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks: the latter they carried with them when they journeyed from one country to another, and sometimes even took them to battle with them, and would not part with them when taken prisoners, even to obtain their own liberty. Such birds were esteemed as the ensigns of nobility, and no action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man of rank than that of giving up his hawk. We have already alluded to the hunting propensities of our own Edward III., and we may also allude to his being equally addicted to hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invaded France, he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had charge of his hawks, and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him, he either hunted, or went to the river for the purpose of hawking. In the great and powerful, the pursuit of game as a sport is allowable, but in those who have to earn their bread by the sweat of their brow, it is to be condemned. In Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy" we find a humorous story, told by Poggius, the Florentine, who reprobates this folly in such persons. It is this. A physician of Milan, that cured madmen, had a pit of water in his house, in which he kept his patients, some up to the knees, some to the girdle, some to the chin, pro modo insaniae, as they were more or less affected. One of them by chance, that was well recovered, stood in the door, and seeing a gallant pass by with a hawk on his fist, well mounted, with his spaniels after him, would needs know to what use all this preparation served. He made answer, To kill certain fowl. The patient demanded again, what his fowl might be worth which he killed in a year? He replied, Five or ten crowns; and when he urged him further, what his dogs, horse, and hawks stood him in, he told him four hundred crowns. With that the patient bade him begone, as he loved his life and welfare; "for if our master come and find thee here, he will put thee in the pit, amongst the madmen, up to the chin." Thus reproving the madness of such men as will spend themselves in those vain sports, to the neglect of their business and necessary affairs.
1017. THE HERON WAS HUNTED BY THE HAWK, and hawking is typically at the top of the list of pastimes that can only be done in the countryside. It likely gained this status because it was a hobby largely enjoyed by the nobility, not only in Great Britain but also on the continent. In the past, people of high rank rarely went out in public without their dogs and hawks: they carried them when traveling from one country to another and sometimes even took them into battle, refusing to leave them behind even if it meant risking their own freedom. Such birds were seen as symbols of nobility, and it was considered extremely dishonorable for a man of rank to give up his hawk. We have already mentioned the hunting tendencies of Edward III, and we can also note his strong interest in hawking. According to Froissart, when this king invaded France, he brought along thirty mounted falconers to take care of his hawks, and every day, whenever he felt like it, he either went hunting or visited the river to go hawking. For the wealthy and powerful, pursuing game as a sport is acceptable, but for those who have to earn a living through hard work, it is to be criticized. In Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy," there’s a funny story told by Poggius, the Florentine, who condemns this foolishness in such people. It goes like this: a physician in Milan who treated the insane had a pool of water in his house where he kept his patients, some standing up to their knees, some to their waists, and some to their chins, pro modo insaniae, depending on their level of madness. One day, a recovered patient was standing at the door and saw a dandy passing by with a hawk on his fist, well mounted, with his spaniels trailing behind. Curious, he asked what purpose all this preparation served. The dandy replied that it was to kill certain birds. The patient then asked how much his birds were worth that he killed in a year. He answered, five or ten crowns. When the patient pressed him further about the costs of his dogs, horse, and hawks, he told him four hundred crowns. With that, the patient urged him to leave for his own safety; “for if our master comes and finds you here, he’ll put you in the pit amongst the madmen, up to your chin.” Thus, he criticized the madness of those who waste themselves on such frivolous sports while neglecting their duties and necessary affairs.
1018. AS THE INEVITABLE RESULT OF SOCIAL PROGRESS is, at least to limit, if not entirely to suppress, such sports as we have here been treating of, much of the romance of country life has passed away. This is more especially the case with falconry, which had its origin about the middle of the fourth century, although, lately, some attempts have been rather successfully made to institute a revival of the "gentle art" of hawking. Julius Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find, the first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and the art of teaching one species of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation of these functionaries has now, however, all but ceased. New and nobler efforts characterize the aims of mankind in the development of their civilization, and the sports of the field have, to a large extent, been superseded by other exercises, it may be less healthful and invigorating, but certainly more elegant, intellectual, and humanizing.
1018. AS A RESULT OF SOCIAL PROGRESS, there has been a tendency to limit, if not completely eliminate, the kinds of sports we've been discussing, which has diminished much of the charm of country life. This is especially true for falconry, which originated around the middle of the fourth century, although recently, there have been some fairly successful attempts to revive the "gentle art" of hawking. Julius Firmicus, who lived around that time, seems to be the first Latin author to mention falconers and the skill of training one type of bird to hunt and catch others. However, the role of these practitioners has nearly vanished. Humanity's goals in advancing civilization now focus on new and nobler pursuits, and traditional field sports have largely been replaced by other activities that may be less healthy and invigorating, but are certainly more sophisticated, intellectual, and enriching.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXIII.
ROAST BLACK-COCK.
1019. INGREDIENTS.—Black-cock, butter, toast.
1019. INGREDIENTS.—Black cock, butter, toast.
[Illustration: ROAST BLACK-COCK.]
[Illustration: ROAST BLACK COCK.]
Mode.—Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough and tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the insides and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. Cut off the heads, and truss them, the same as a roast fowl, cutting off the toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Trussing them with the head on, as shown in the engraving, is still practised by many cooks, but the former method is now considered the best. Put them down to a brisk fire, well baste them with butter, and serve with a piece of toast under, and a good gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover the breast with vine-leaves and slices of bacon, and then roast them. They should be served in the same manner and with the same accompaniments as with the plainly-roasted birds.
Mode.—Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough and flavorless if not stored properly. Pluck and draw them, then wipe the insides and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the taste. Cut off the heads and truss them like a roast chicken, trimming off the toes and scalding and peeling the feet. While many cooks still truss them with the head on, as shown in the engraving, the previous method is now considered best. Place them over a strong fire, baste them well with butter, and serve them on toast, accompanied by good gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover the breast with vine leaves and slices of bacon before roasting. They should be served in the same way and with the same sides as the plainly roasted birds.
Time.—45 to 50 minutes.
Time: 45 to 50 minutes.
Average cost, from 5s. to 6s. the brace; but seldom bought.
Average cost, from 5 shillings to 6 shillings each; but rarely purchased.
Sufficient,—2 or 3 for a dish.
Sufficient—2 or 3 for a serving.
Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of December.
In season from mid-August to the end of December.
[Illustration: THE BLACK-COCK.]
[Illustration: THE BLACK-COCK.]
THE BLACK-COCK, HEATH-COCK, MOOR-FOWL, OR HEATH-POULT.—This bird sometimes weighs as much as four pounds, and the hen about two. It is at present confined to the more northern parts of Britain, culture and extending population having united in driving it into more desolate regions, except, perhaps, in a few of the more wild and less-frequented portions of England. It may still be found in the New Forest, in Hampshire, Dartmoor, and Sedgmoor, in Devonshire, and among the hills of Somersetshire, contiguous to the latter. It may also be found in Staffordshire, in North Wales, and again in the north of England; but nowhere so plentiful as in some parts of the Highlands of Scotland. The males are hardly distinguishable from the females until they are about half-grown, when the black feathers begin to appear, first about the sides and breast. Their food consists of the tops of birch and heath, except when the mountain berries are ripe, at which period they eagerly and even voraciously pick the bilberries and cranberries from the bushes. Large numbers of these birds are found in Norway, almost rivalling the turkey in point of size. Some of them have begun to be imported into London, where they are vended in the shops; but the flavour of their flesh is not equal to that of the Scotch bird.
THE BLACK COCK, HEATH COCK, MOOR FOWL, OR HEATH POULT.—This bird can weigh as much as four pounds, while the hen weighs about two. Currently, it is found mostly in the northern parts of Britain, as expanding agriculture and population have pushed it into more remote areas, with a few exceptions in some of the wilder, less-visited parts of England. It can still be found in the New Forest in Hampshire, Dartmoor, and Sedgmoor in Devon, as well as in the hills of Somerset nearby. It's also seen in Staffordshire, North Wales, and northern England, but it's most abundant in certain areas of the Scottish Highlands. The males are hard to tell apart from the females until they are about half-grown, at which point the black feathers start to show up, first around the sides and breast. Their diet includes the tops of birch and heath, except during the ripening of mountain berries, when they enthusiastically and even greedily pick bilberries and cranberries from the bushes. Large numbers of these birds are found in Norway, almost matching the turkey in size. Some have started to be imported to London, where they are sold in shops, but their meat doesn’t taste as good as that of the Scottish bird.
HASHED WILD DUCK.
1020. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of good brown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or Seville orange-juice.
1020. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of good brown gravy, 2 tablespoons of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to taste; 1 tablespoon of lemon or Seville orange juice.
Mode.—Cut the remains of the duck into neat joints, put them into a stewpan, with all the above ingredients; let them get gradually hot by the side of the fire, and occasionally stir the contents; when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Cut the leftover duck into tidy pieces, place them in a saucepan along with all the ingredients listed above; heat them slowly by the fire and stir occasionally; when it's about to boil, serve it up and garnish the dish with pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—About 1/4 hour.
Time.—About 15 minutes.
Seasonable from November to February.
Seasonal from November to February.
RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK.
1021. INGREDIENTS.—2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock No. 105, 1 glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
1021. INGREDIENTS.—2 wild ducks, 4 shallots, 1 pint of stock No. 105, 1 glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
Mode.—Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding day will answer for this dish. Cut them into joints, reserve the legs, wings, and breasts until wanted; put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots and stock, and let them simmer for about 1/2 hour, and strain the gravy. Put the butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; give it one boil, and strain it again; add the wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne; lay in the pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually warm through, but do not allow it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The gravy should not be too thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville orange is a great improvement to this dish.
Mode.—Ducks that have been prepared and left over from the previous day will work for this dish. Cut them into pieces, set aside the legs, wings, and breasts until needed; put the trimmings into a saucepan with the shallots and stock, and let them simmer for about half an hour, then strain the gravy. Put the butter into a saucepan; when melted, sprinkle in a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; bring it to a boil, and strain it again; add the wine, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper; add the pieces of duck, and let everything warm through gradually without boiling, or the duck will become tough. The gravy should not be too thick and should be well seasoned. A squeeze of Seville orange juice is a great enhancement to this dish.
Time.—About 1/2 hour to make the gravy; 1/4 hour for the duck gradually to warm through.
Time.—About 30 minutes to make the gravy; 15 minutes for the duck to warm up gradually.
Seasonable from November to February.
In season from November to February.
ROAST WILD DUCK.
1022. INGREDIENTS.—Wild duck, flour, butter.
1022. INGREDIENTS.—Wild duck, flour, butter.
[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK.]
[Illustration: ROAST WILD DUCK.]
Mode.—Carefully pluck and draw them; Cut off the heads close to the necks, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and do not cut off the feet; some twist each leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on each side of the breast; others truss them as shown in our Illustration. Roast the birds before a quick fire, and, when they are first put down, let them remain for 5 minutes without basting (this will keep the gravy in); afterwards baste plentifully with butter, and a few minutes before serving dredge them lightly with flour; baste well, and send them to table nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If overdone, the birds will lose their flavour. Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange gravy, No. 488; and send to table with them a cut lemon. To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes with hot water to which have been added an onion and a little salt; then take away the pan, and baste with butter.—See coloured plate, G1.
Mode.—Carefully remove the feathers and gut them; cut off the heads close to the necks, leaving enough skin to fold over, and don’t cut off the feet; some twist each leg at the joint and rest the claws on each side of the breast; others tie them up as shown in our illustration. Roast the birds over a hot fire, and when you first place them down, let them cook for 5 minutes without basting (this keeps the juices in); then baste generously with butter, and a few minutes before serving, lightly sprinkle them with flour; baste well and serve them nicely browned and juicy. If they’re overcooked, the birds will lose their flavor. Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange gravy, No. 488; and include a cut lemon. To remove the fishy taste that wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes with hot water mixed with an onion and a bit of salt; then take away the pan and baste with butter.—See colored plate, G1.
Time.—When liked underdressed, 20 to 25 minutes; well done, 25 to 35 minutes.
Time.—For rare, cook for 20 to 25 minutes; for well done, cook for 25 to 35 minutes.
Average cost, 4s. to 5s. the couple.
Average cost, 4 to 5 shillings per couple.
Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Enough,—2 for a dish.
Seasonable from November to February.
Available from November to February.
[Illustration: THE WILD DUCK.]
[Illustration: THE WILD DUCK.]
THE WILD DUCK.—The male of the wild dock is called a mallard; and the young ones are called flappers. The time to try to find a brood of these is about the month of July, among the rushes of the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream, where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be taken as a certainty that its brood is not far off. When once found, flappers are easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their wings are fledged. Consequently, the sport is more like hunting water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing, they assume the name of wild ducks, and about the month of August repair to the corn-fields, where they remain until they are disturbed by the harvest-people. They then frequent the rivers pretty early in the evening, and give excellent sport to those who have patience to wait for them. In order to know a wild duck, it is necessary only to look at the claws, which should be black.
THE WILD DUCK.—The male wild duck is called a mallard, and the young ones are referred to as flappers. The best time to look for a brood is around July, in the thickest and most secluded parts of a brook or stream. If the mother duck is startled, you can be certain that her brood is close by. Once found, flappers are easy to catch because they grow fully before their wings are ready. So, it's more like hunting water rats than shooting birds. When the flappers fly, they become known as wild ducks and around August, they head for the cornfields, where they stay until the harvesters come. After that, they return to the rivers pretty early in the evening, offering great sport for those who are patient enough to wait for them. To identify a wild duck, just look at its claws, which should be black.
HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery).
HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cooking).
1023. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold game, 1 onion stuck with 3 cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste, thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock.
1023. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold game, 1 onion pierced with 3 cloves, a few whole peppercorns, a strip of lemon peel, salt to taste, a mixture of butter and flour for thickening, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak stock.
Mode.—Cut the remains of cold game into joints, reserve the best pieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with the onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock; stew these for about an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour; add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup; lay in the pieces of game, and let them gradually warm through by the side of the fire; do not allow it to boil, or the game will be hard. When on the point of simmering, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Cut the leftover cold game into pieces, set aside the best ones, and put the lesser parts and trimmings into a saucepan with onion, pepper, lemon peel, salt, and water or weak stock; simmer these for about an hour, then strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour; add the wine, lemon juice, and ketchup; place the pieces of game in, and let them warm up slowly by the side of the fire; do not let it boil, or the game will become tough. When it’s just about to simmer, serve it, and garnish the dish with pieces of toasted bread.
Time.—Altogether 1-1/4 hour.
Duration.—Total 1.25 hours.
Seasonable from August to March.
In season from August to March.
Note.—Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and the flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curvy powder, &c.; but we cannot recommend these latter ingredients, as a dish of game should really have a gamy taste; and if too many sauces, essences, &c., are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the dish should possess.
Note.—You can use the above recipe for any type of game, and you can change up the flavor by adding flavored vinegars, curry powder, etc.; however, we don't recommend these extra ingredients because a game dish should really have a rich, gamey taste. If you add too many sauces, essences, etc., to the gravy, they will completely overpower and ruin the flavor that the dish is meant to have.
GROUSE PIE.
1024. INGREDIENTS.—Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of rump-steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste.
1024. INGREDIENTS.—Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste; 1 lb. of rump steak, 1/2 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff pastry.
Mode.—Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into neat pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints; but, if small, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with a puff paste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings will make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a little sherry, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace: this should be poured in after the pie is baked.
Mode.—Line the bottom of a pie dish with pieces of rump steak, and if the grouse is large, cut it into joints; if it's small, you can leave them whole in the pie. Season generously with salt, cayenne, and black pepper; pour in the broth, and cover with puff pastry. Brush the crust with egg yolk and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, use the backbones and trimmings to make the gravy by simmering them with an onion, a little sherry, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace; pour this in after the pie is baked.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour.
Duration.—45 minutes to 1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought, 1s. 9d.
Average cost, not including the grouse, which are rarely purchased, 1s. 9d.
Seasonable from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
In season from August 12 to early December.
ROAST GROUSE.
[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE.]
[Illustration: ROAST GROUSE.]
1025. INGREDIENTS.—Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread.
1025. INGREDIENTS.—Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread.
Mode.—Let the birds hang as long as possible; pluck and draw them; wipe, but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss them without the head, the same as for a roast fowl. Many persons still continue to truss them with the head under the wing, but the former is now considered the most approved method. Put them down to a sharp clear fire; keep them well basted the whole of the time they are cooking, and serve them on a buttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan, with a little melted butter poured over them, or with bread-sauce and gravy.—See coloured plate, L1.
Method.—Let the birds hang for as long as possible; pluck and draw them; wipe, but don’t wash them, inside and out, and truss them without the head, just like for a roasted chicken. Many people still truss them with the head tucked under the wing, but the former method is now considered the best. Place them over a sharp, clear fire; keep them well basted the entire time they’re cooking, and serve them on buttered toast soaked in the dripping pan, with a little melted butter poured over them, or with bread sauce and gravy.—See colored plate, L1.
Time.—1/2 hour; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes.
Time.—30 minutes; if you prefer it well done, 35 minutes.
Average cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. the brace; but seldom bought.
Average cost, 2 shillings to 2 shillings 6 pence a pair; but rarely purchased.
Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Enough—2 for a dish.
Seasonable from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
In season from August 12th to early December.
[Illustration: RED GROUSE.]
[Illustration: Red Grouse.]
GROUSE.—These birds are divided into wood grouse, black grouse, red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse is further distinguished as the cock of the wood, or capercalzie, and is as large as the turkey, being about two feet nine inches in length, and weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is considerably less than the male, and, in the colour of her feathers, differs widely from the other. This beautiful species is found principally in lofty, mountainous regions, and is very rare in Great Britain; but in the pine forests of Russia, Sweden, and other northern countries, it is very common. In these it has its habitat, feeding on the cones of the trees, and the fruits of various kinds of plants, especially the berry of the jumper. Black grouse is also distinguished as black-game, or the black-cock. It is not larger than the common hen, and weighs only about four pounds. The female is about one-third less than the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of colour. Like the former, they are found chiefly in high situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of Great Britain, feeding in winter on the various berries and fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and, in summer, frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The red grouse, gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces, and the female somewhat less. In the wild heathy tracts of the northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in Wales and the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to Britain, those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France, and Italy, being only varieties of the same bird. White grouse, white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports itself in the severest weather. It is to be met with in most of the northern countries of Europe, and appears even in Greenland. In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is also found; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter they fly in flocks, and are so little familiar with the sight of man, that they are easily shot, and even snared. They feed on the wild produce of the hills, which sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but not unpalatable taste. According to Buffon, it is dark-coloured, and somewhat flavoured like the hare.
GROUSE.—These birds are categorized into wood grouse, black grouse, red grouse, and white grouse. The wood grouse, also known as the capercalzie, is large, roughly the size of a turkey, measuring about two feet nine inches in length and weighing between twelve to fifteen pounds. The female is significantly smaller than the male and has different feather colors. This stunning species mainly inhabits high, mountainous regions and is quite rare in Great Britain; however, it's quite common in the pine forests of Russia, Sweden, and other northern countries. There, it lives off tree cones and various plant fruits, especially the juniper berry. The black grouse, or black-game, is similar in size to a common hen, weighing about four pounds. The female is about one-third smaller than the male and differs significantly in color. Like the wood grouse, they primarily reside in high areas and are common in Russia, Siberia, and other northern regions. They can also be found in the northern parts of Great Britain, where they eat various berries and fruits in winter and often descend to lower lands in summer to feed on grains. The red grouse, also called gorcock or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces, with the female being slightly lighter. It is abundant in the wild heathy areas of northern England, as well as in Wales and the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant believed it was unique to Britain, with those in the mountains of Spain, France, and Italy being mere varieties of the same bird. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the red grouse and thrives in high altitudes, where it can survive the harshest weather. It can be found in most northern European countries and even in Greenland. It also inhabits the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, and occasionally, though rarely, in the fells of Northumberland and Cumberland. In winter, they fly in flocks and are so unaccustomed to human presence that they can be easily shot or trapped. They feed on the wild flora of the hills, which sometimes gives their meat a slightly bitter but still pleasant flavor. According to Buffon, their flesh is dark and somewhat reminiscent of hare.
GROUSE SALAD.
(Soyer's Recipe.)
Soyer's Recipe
1026. INGREDIENTS.—8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for the sauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. of salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill of cream.
1026. INGREDIENTS.—8 eggs, butter, fresh salad, 1 or 2 grouse; for the sauce, 1 teaspoon of minced shallot, 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley, 1/4 oz. of salt, 4 tablespoons of oil, 2 tablespoons of chili vinegar, 1 gill of cream.
Mode.—Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water cut a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in the dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flat border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is to be served on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately; lay in the centre a fresh salad of whatever is in season, and, having previously roasted the grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare the sauce as follows:—Put the shalots into a basin, with the sugar, the yolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the oil and vinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the sauce on ice or in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream rather thick, which lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes or beetroot on the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds, may be placed between, or cut gherkins in slices, and a border of them laid round. Tarragon or chervil-leaves are also a pretty addition. The remains of cold black-game, pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner, and will make a very delicate dish.
Method.—Hard boil the eggs, peel them, and place them in cold water. Cut a thin slice off the bottom to help them stand in the dish. Slice each egg lengthwise into four pieces, and create a thin flat border of butter about an inch from the edge of the serving dish. Position the egg pieces upright next to each other, with the yolk facing out, or alternate yolk and white. In the center, add a fresh salad with seasonal ingredients. Before serving, roast the grouse just underdone, then cut it into eight to ten pieces. Prepare the sauce by mixing the shallots in a bowl with sugar, the yolk of an egg, parsley, and salt, then gradually mix in oil and vinegar. Once well mixed, chill the sauce in the fridge or a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream to a thick consistency and lightly fold it into the sauce. Place the underside of the grouse on the salad, cover each piece with sauce, then layer the rest of the grouse and salad on top. Pour the remaining sauce over everything and serve. You can garnish the eggs with a small piece of radish or beet on the tip. You can also add small diamond-shaped pieces of anchovy and gherkin in between, or slice gherkins and create a border around the dish. Adding tarragon or chervil leaves also makes a nice touch. You can use leftover cold black-game, pheasant, or partridge in the same way for a delicate dish.
Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, £2.50.
Seasonable from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.
In season from August 12th to early December.
[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE.]
[Illustration: THE CAPERCALZIE.]
THE CAPERCALZIE.—This bird was to be met with formerly both in Ireland and Scotland, but is now extinct. The male lives separate from the females, except in the breeding season. Its manners and habits are very like those of black grouse, except that it seems to be wholly confined to forests of pine, on the tender shoots of which it feeds. It is by no means uncommon in the woods of Norway, whence we received it. It is also found abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and in some portions of the Alps. It was, in 1760, last seen in Scotland, in the woods of Strathglass. Recent attempts have been made to re-introduce it into that country, but without success; principally owing, as we should imagine, to the want of sufficient food suitable for its sustenance.
THE CAPERCALZIE.—This bird used to be found in both Ireland and Scotland, but it is now extinct. Males live separately from females, except during the breeding season. Their behavior and habits are very similar to those of black grouse, except that they seem to live exclusively in pine forests, where they feed on the tender shoots. It is quite common in the woods of Norway, from where we received it. It is also abundant in Russia, Siberia, Italy, and certain parts of the Alps. The last sighting in Scotland was in 1760, in the woods of Strathglass. Recent efforts to reintroduce it into that country have been unsuccessful, mainly due to a lack of adequate food suitable for its diet.
GROUSE.—Under this general term are included several species of game birds, called black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The black is larger than the red (see No. 1025), and is not so common, and therefore held in higher estimation. The red, however, is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of the mountainous districts of Scotland and the north of England. It feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that grow amongst them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. The woodland, or cock of the wood, is the largest among the bird tribes which pass under the denomination of game. It is smaller than the turkey, and was originally common in our mountains; but it is now to be found only in the mountains of Scotland, though it still abounds in the north of Europe, Germany, and in the Alps. It is esteemed as delicious eating, and its plumage is extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a plentiful bird in Britain; but it is still found in the islands, and weighs about half a pound. The London market is supplied by Norway and Scotland; those from the former country being esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation, being considered as little different from common grouse.
GROUSE.—This term refers to several types of game birds, known as black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The black grouse is larger than the red one (see No. 1025) and is less common, which makes it more highly valued. The red grouse, however, is known for its exceptional flavor and is native to the mountainous areas of Scotland and northern England. It feeds on the tops of heather and the berries that grow among them; its color is a rich chestnut with black stripes. The woodland grouse, also called the cock of the wood, is the largest bird classified as game. It is smaller than a turkey and was once common in our mountains, but now it can only be found in the mountains of Scotland, though it is still plentiful in northern Europe, Germany, and the Alps. It is regarded as a delicacy, and its feathers are incredibly beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not very common in Britain; however, it can still be found in the islands and weighs about half a pound. The London market receives supplies from Norway and Scotland, with those from Norway being considered the best. When young, it is highly valued, regarded as being only slightly different from common grouse.
ROAST HARE.
1027. INGREDIENTS.—Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter.
1027. INGREDIENTS.—Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a bit of milk, butter.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose a young hare; which may be known by its smooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being much spread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time; and, if properly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is better to hang without being paunched; but should it be previously emptied, wipe the inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little pepper and ginger, to prevent the musty taste which long keeping in the damp occasions, and which also affects the stuffing. After it is skinned, wash it well, and soak for an hour in warm water to draw out the blood; if old, let it lie in vinegar for a short time, but wash it well afterwards in several waters. Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the hare dry, fill the belly with it, and sew it up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the body towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head between the shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful to leave the ears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it above the back.
Choosing and Trussing.—Select a young hare, identifiable by its smooth, sharp claws and a lip cleft that isn't too wide. To taste best, it should hang for a while, and if cared for properly, can be kept for several days. It's preferable to hang it without gutting; however, if you do gut it, make sure to wipe the inside daily and sprinkle a bit of pepper and ginger inside to avoid a musty taste from prolonged dampness, which can also affect the stuffing. After skinning, wash it thoroughly and soak it in warm water for an hour to remove the blood; if the hare is older, soak it in vinegar for a short time, but rinse it well in several waters afterward. Prepare a forcemeat using recipe No. 417, dry the hare, fill its belly with the mixture, and sew it shut. Bring the hind and fore legs close to the body toward the head, run a skewer through each, and secure the head between the shoulders with another skewer, ensuring to keep the ears on. Wrap a string around the body from skewer to skewer, and tie it above the back.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
[Illustration: ROASTED RABBIT.]
Mode.—The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it is first laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwards with butter; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Red-currant jelly must also not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompaniment to roast hare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for the milk and butter to baste with; but the basting, as we have before stated, must be continued without intermission. If the liver is good, it maybe parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing; but it should not be used unless quite fresh.—See coloured plate, E1.
Mode.—Keep the hare away from the fire when you first put it down, or the outside will dry out and harden before the inside is cooked. Baste it well with milk for a short time, then switch to butter; pay close attention to the basting to keep the meat on the back juicy and nutritious. When it's nearly cooked through, dust the hare with flour and baste generously with butter. Once it has a nice frothy appearance, serve it up, remove the skewers, and present it with a little gravy in the dish and a tureen of the same. Don’t forget the red-currant jelly, as it’s essential with roast hare. To save money, you can use good beef dripping instead of milk and butter for basting, but remember to keep basting continuously as mentioned before. If the liver is good, you can parboil it, mince it, and add it to the stuffing, but only use it if it's really fresh.—See coloured plate, E1.
Time.—A middling-sized hare, 1-1/4 hour; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—A medium-sized hare, 1-1/4 hours; a large hare, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Average cost, from 4s. to 6s.
Average cost, from 4s to 6s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from September to the end of February.
Seasonal from September to the end of February.
THE HARE.—This little animal is found generally distributed over Europe, and, indeed, in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme timidity is the endowment which Providence has bestowed upon it as a means of defence; it is therefore attentive to every sound, and is supplied with ears both long and tubular, with which it can hear with great acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so constructed, and placed so prominent in its head, that it can see both before and behind it. It lives entirely upon vegetables, but its flesh is considered dry, notwithstanding that it is deemed, in many respects, superior to that of the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. Its general time of feeding is the evening; but during the day, if not disturbed, it adheres closely to its form.
THE HARE.—This small animal is commonly found all over Europe and in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme shyness is a trait that nature has given it for protection; it pays close attention to every sound and has long, tubular ears that allow it to hear very well. Its eyes are also designed and positioned so prominently on its head that it can see both in front and behind it. It feeds exclusively on plants, but its meat is considered tough, though it is regarded as better than rabbit meat in many ways, being more flavorful and tastier. It mainly feeds in the evening, but during the day, if it isn't disturbed, it remains close to its form.
[Illustration: THE HARE.]
[Illustration: THE HARE.]
POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).
POTTED HARE (a Lunch or Breakfast Dish).
1028. INGREDIENTS.—1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.
1028. INGREDIENTS.—1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch of savory herbs, 4 cloves, 1/2 teaspoon of whole allspice, 2 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.
Mode.—Skin, empty, and wash the hare; cut it down the middle, and put it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over it; add the remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the hare is tender, and the flesh will separate easily from the bones. When done enough, take it up, remove the bones, and pound the meat, with the bacon, in a mortar, until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Should it not be sufficiently seasoned, add a little cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, but be careful that these are well mixed with the other ingredients. Press the meat into potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep in a dry place. The liquor that the hare was stewed in, should be saved for hashes, soups, &c. &c.
Mode.—Skin and clean the hare, cut it in half, and place it in a stewpan with some slices of bacon on top and bottom; add the other ingredients and simmer very gently until the hare is tender and the meat separates easily from the bones. Once cooked, remove it, take out the bones, and mash the meat, with the bacon, in a mortar until it becomes a smooth paste. If it needs more seasoning, add a little cayenne, salt, and ground mace, ensuring everything is well mixed. Pack the meat into storage containers, pour clarified butter on top, and store it in a dry place. Save the liquid from stewing the hare for hashes, soups, etc.
Time.—About 21/2 hours to stew the hare.
Time.—About 2.5 hours to stew the hare.
Seasonable from September to the end of February.
In season from September to the end of February.
BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish).
BROILED HARE (a Dinner or Lunch Dish).
1029. INGREDIENTS.—The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne and salt to taste, a little butter.
1029. INGREDIENTS.—The leg and shoulders of a roasted hare, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, a bit of butter.
Mode.—Cut the legs and shoulders of a roast hare, season them highly with salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for 5 minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold butter, and send to table very quickly.
Mode.—Remove the legs and shoulders from a roast hare, season them well with salt and cayenne pepper, and grill them over a hot fire for 5 minutes. Place them on a hot plate, spread a little cold butter over them, and serve immediately.
Time.—5 minutes.
Duration.—5 minutes.
Seasonable from September to the end of February.
In season from September to the end of February.
HASHED HARE.
1030. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.
1030. INGREDIENTS.—The leftover cold roast hare, 1 blade of ground mace, 2 or 3 allspice berries, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a handful of savory herbs, 3 tablespoons of port wine, a thickening of butter and flour, and 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup.
Mode.—Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones, and trimmings into a stewpan, with 3/4 pint of water; add the mace, allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may be left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and, when it has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.
Mode.—Slice the cold hare neatly and place the head, bones, and trimmings into a saucepan with 3/4 pint of water. Add the mace, allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and simmer for almost an hour. Strain the gravy; thicken it with butter and flour, then add the wine and ketchup. Place the pieces of hare in the sauce, along with any leftover stuffing. Let everything heat gradually by the fire, and after it has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve it, garnished with pieces of toasted bread. Serve red-currant jelly on the side.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour.
Duration.—Just over 1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the cold hare, 6d.
Average cost, not including the cold hare, 6d.
Seasonable from September to the end of February.
In season from September to the end of February.
JUGGED HARE.
(Very Good.)
(Great.)
1031. INGREDIENTS.—1 hare, 1-1/2 lb. of gravy beef, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1/2 pint of port wine.
1031. INGREDIENTS.—1 hare, 1.5 lbs. of gravy beef, 0.5 lbs. of butter, 1 onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste; 0.5 pint of port wine.
Mode.—Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredge them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 1-1/2 pint of gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with a little flour. Put this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a good seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down tightly, put it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it stew until the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water boiling. When nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few forcemeat balls, made by recipe No. 417: these must be fried or baked in the oven for a few minutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly.
Mode.—Skin and gut the hare, then wash it and cut it into pieces. Dredge the pieces with flour and fry them in hot butter. Prepare 1-1/2 pints of gravy using the same ratio of beef, thickened with a bit of flour. Place this into a jar; add the pieces of fried hare, an onion studded with six cloves, a lemon that's been peeled and cut in half, and a good amount of pepper, cayenne, and salt. Seal the jar tightly, and put it in a pot of boiling water, making sure to submerge it up to the neck. Let it simmer until the hare is very tender, ensuring the water stays boiling. When it's almost done, pour in the wine and add a few forcemeat balls made according to recipe No. 417; these should be fried or baked in the oven for a few minutes before adding them to the gravy. Serve with red-currant jelly.
Time,—3-1/2 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4-1/2 hours.
Time,—3.5 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4.5 hours.
Average cost, 7s.
Average cost, 7s.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Good for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from September to the end of February.
In season from September to the end of February.
II.
(A Quicker and more Economical Way.)
(A faster and more cost-effective method.)
1032. INGREDIENTS.—1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each stuck with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 teaspoonful of black pepper, a strip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine.
1032. INGREDIENTS.—1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each studded with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice berries, 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper, a strip of lemon peel, a mixture of butter and flour for thickening, 2 tablespoons of mushroom ketchup, 1/4 pint of port wine.
Mode.—Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large), and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe; then put them into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and lemon-peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully remove all the scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be in about 1-3/4 hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out the pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup and port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through a sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be added at the moment of serving, or instead of frying them, they may be stewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the hare is wanted for table. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly with it.
Mode.—Clean the hare thoroughly, cut it into pieces (not too large), and coat and brown them as in the previous recipe; then place them in a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and lemon peel; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully skim off any scum, then let it simmer gently until tender, which will take about 1 hour and 45 minutes, or longer if the hare is quite old. Remove the pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the ketchup and port wine, boil for about 10 minutes, strain it through a sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat balls should be added when serving, or instead of frying them, they can be stewed in the gravy about 10 minutes before the hare is ready to serve. Don’t forget to serve red-currant jelly with it.
Time.—Altogether 2 hours. Average cost, 5s. 6d.
Time.—Total of 2 hours. Average cost, £5.30.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from September to the end of February.
In season from September to the end of February.
Note.—Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting the hare, &c. into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan of boiling water: this method prevents a great deal of waste.
Note.—If there's any leftover, reheat it the next day by placing the hare, etc., into a covered jar and putting this jar in a pot of boiling water: this method helps reduce waste.
ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.
1033. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs.
1033. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs.
[Illustration: LANDRAILS.]
[Illustration: RAILINGS.]
Mode.—Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with damp cloths, and truss them in the following manner:—Bring the head round under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer through them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with a tureen of brown gravy. When liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to table with them.
Mode.—Remove the feathers and entrails from the birds, wipe them inside and out with damp cloths, and prepare them as follows:—Bring the head around under the wing and place the thighs close to the sides; insert a skewer through them and the body, keeping the legs straight. Roast them over a clear fire, make sure to baste them well, and serve on fried bread crumbs, with a bowl of brown gravy. If desired, bread sauce can also be served alongside.
Time.—12 to 20 minutes. Average cost,—Seldom bought.
Time.—12 to 20 minutes. Average cost,—Rarely purchased.
Sufficient.—Allow—1 for a dish.
Sufficient.—Allow—1 per dish.
Seasonable from August 12th to the middle of September.
In season from August 12th to mid-September.
[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL.]
[Illustration: THE LANDRAIL.]
THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.—This bird is migratory in its habits, yet from its formation, it seems ill adapted for long aërial passages, its wings being short, and placed so forward out of the centre of gravity, that it flies in an extremely heavy and embarrassed manner, and with its legs hanging down. When it alights, it can hardly be sprung a second time, as it runs very fast, and seems to depend for its safety more on the swiftness of its feet than the celerity of its wings. It makes its appearance in England about the same time as the quail, that is, in the months of April and May, and frequents the same places. Its singular cry is first heard when the grass becomes long enough to shelter it, and it continues to be heard until the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it constantly skulks among the thickest portions of the herbage, and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this island before the winter, and repairs to other countries in search of its food, which principally consists of slugs, large numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and, whilst migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in the island of Anglesea. On its first arrival in England, it is so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces; before its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight ounces, and is then most delicious eating.
THE LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.—This bird migrates, but its body structure makes it poorly suited for long flights. Its wings are short and positioned towards the front, which causes it to fly awkwardly and heavily with its legs hanging down. When it lands, it’s hard to catch again, as it runs very quickly and relies more on its speed than its flying ability for safety. It shows up in England around the same time as the quail, in April and May, and tends to frequent the same areas. Its distinctive call can be heard when the grass is tall enough to hide it, and it continues until the grass is cut. However, the bird is rarely seen because it hides among the thickest vegetation and moves so quickly through it, twisting and turning in all directions, making it hard to approach. It leaves the island before winter and migrates to other countries for food, primarily eating slugs, which it consumes in large quantities. The corn-crake is quite common in Ireland and can be seen in great numbers in Anglesea during migration to England. When it first arrives in England, it is so thin that it barely weighs five or six ounces; however, it can gain weight and exceed eight ounces before leaving, at which point it is considered very tasty.
TO DRESS A LEVERET.
1034. INGREDIENTS.—2 leverets, butter, flour.
1034. INGREDIENTS.—2 young rabbits, butter, flour.
Mode.—Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, but they do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and keep them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes before serving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely. Serve with plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant jelly with them.
Mode.—Young rabbits should be prepared the same way as a hare, but they don't need stuffing. Roast them over a clear fire and make sure to baste them frequently while they cook. A few minutes before serving, sprinkle them lightly with flour and give them a nice froth. Serve them with plain gravy in the dish and accompany them with red-currant jelly.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, in full season, 4s. each.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, during peak season, 4s. each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from May to August, but cheapest in July and August.
Best from May to August, but lowest prices in July and August.
BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper Dish).
BROILED PARTRIDGE (a lunch, breakfast, or dinner dish).
1035. INGREDIENTS.—3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
1035. INGREDIENTS.—3 partridges, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, a small piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
Mode.—Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe the inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne, broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub a small piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
Mode.—Remove the feathers, gut, and cut the partridges in half, then thoroughly wipe the insides with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and cayenne pepper, broil them over a very hot fire, and serve them on a hot platter; rub a small amount of butter over each half and bring them to the table with brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
Time.—About 1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
Time.—About 15 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling 6 pence to 2 shillings per dozen.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
In season from September 1st to the beginning of February.
PARTRIDGE PIE.
1036. INGREDIENTS.—3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), 3/4 lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff paste.
1036. INGREDIENTS.—3 partridges, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley (and a few mushrooms if available), 3/4 lb. of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, 1/2 pint of stock, puff pastry.
Mode.—Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet; over that place a slice of ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe the partridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them inside with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; place them in the dish, and pour over the stock; line the edges of the dish with puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake for 3/4 to 1 hour.
Method.—Line a pie dish with a veal cutlet; on top of that place a slice of ham and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Clean, pluck, and wipe the partridges; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season the inside with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter; place them in the dish, and pour stock over them; line the edges of the dish with puff pastry, cover it with the same, brush it with the yolk of an egg, and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
Time.—45 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, 1.5 to 2 pounds for a pair.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
In season from September 1st to early February.
Note.—Should the partridges be very large, split them in half; they will then lie in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushrooms should always be added.
Note.—If the partridges are really large, cut them in half; this way they will fit into the dish more neatly. Whenever possible, always add a few mushrooms.
POTTED PARTRIDGE.
1037. INGREDIENTS.—Partridges; seasoning to taste of mace, allspice white pepper, and salt; butter, coarse paste.
1037. INGREDIENTS.—Partridges; seasoning to taste with mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; butter, rough pastry.
Mode.—Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with a damp cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt; mix together, and rub every part of the partridges with this. Pack the birds as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over them, and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie a paper over this, and bake for rather more than 1-1/2 hour; let the birds get cold, then cut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely into a large potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a cool dry place. The butter used for potted things will answer for basting, or for paste for meat pies.—See coloured plate, D1.
Mode.—Gut and clean the birds, then wipe the insides with a damp cloth. Crush some mace, allspice, white pepper, and salt together; mix well, and rub this mixture all over the partridges. Pack the birds tightly in a baking pan, cover them with plenty of butter, and top with a coarse flour and water crust. Place a piece of paper over this, and bake for a little over 1-1/2 hours; let the birds cool, then chop them into pieces for storage, packing them tightly into a large pot. Cover them with clarified butter. Store this in a cool, dry place. The butter used for potted items can also be used for basting or as a paste for meat pies.—See coloured plate, D1.
Time.—1-1/2 hour.
Time.—1.5 hours.
Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
In season from September 1st to early February.
SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES.
SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES.
1038. INGREDIENTS.—3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean ham, 1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole peppers, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump of sugar.
1038. INGREDIENTS.—3 young partridges, 3 shallots, a slice of lean ham, 1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savory herbs, 2 cloves, 6 whole peppercorns, 3/4 pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small lump of sugar.
Mode.—After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them rather underdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not be browned; cut them into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts; put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by until the gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put them, with the carrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper, into a stewpan; fry them lightly in a little butter, pour in the stock, add the bones and trimming from the partridges, and simmer for 1/4 hour. Strain the gravy, let it cool, and skim off every particle of fat; put it to the legs, wings, and breasts, add a glass of sherry or Madeira and a small lump of sugar, let all gradually warm through by the side of the fire, and when on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with croûtons. The remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in this way, although not so good as when the birds are in the first instance only half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable for pheasants, moor-game, &c.; but care must be taken always to skin the joints.
Mode.—After you’ve plucked and gutted the partridges, roast them a little underdone and cover them with paper, as they shouldn’t be browned. Cut them into pieces, remove the skin from the wings, legs, and breasts; place these in a saucepan, cover them up, and set aside until the gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and add them along with sliced carrots, shallots, mushrooms, herbs, cloves, and pepper into a saucepan; lightly fry them in a bit of butter, pour in the stock, add the bones and trimmings from the partridges, and let it simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the gravy, allow it to cool, and skim off all the fat; add it to the legs, wings, and breasts, along with a glass of sherry or Madeira and a small piece of sugar. Let everything warm up gradually by the fire, and when it's just about to boil, serve and garnish the dish with croutons. Leftover roast partridge works well prepared this way, though it’s not as good as when the birds are only half-roasted initially. This recipe is also suitable for pheasants, moor-game, etc.; just be sure to always skin the joints.
Time.—Altogether 1 hour.
Duration.—Total 1 hour.
Sufficient.—2 or 3 partridges for an entrée.
Sufficient.—2 or 3 partridges as a starter.
Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
In season from September 1st to early February.
ROAST PARTRIDGE.
1039. INGREDIENTS.—Partridge; butter.
1039. INGREDIENTS.—Partridge; butter.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose young birds, with dark-coloured bills and yellowish legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will be no flavour to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should be kept, entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are intended, as what some persons would consider delicious, would be to others disgusting and offensive. They may be trussed with or without the head, the latter mode being now considered the most fashionable. Pluck, draw, and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out; cut off the head, leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back; bring the legs close to the breast, between it and the side-bones, and pass a skewer through the pinions and the thick part of the thighs. When the head is left on, it should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the skewer.
Choosing and Trussing.—Select young birds with dark-colored beaks and yellowish legs, and let them hang for a few days, or else the meat won't have any flavor and won't be tender. The amount of time they should be kept really depends on the preferences of the people you're serving them to, as what some might find delicious, others might find disgusting and off-putting. They can be trussed with or without the head, with the headless method currently being the more fashionable option. Pluck, gut, and clean the partridge thoroughly inside and out; cut off the head, leaving enough skin on the neck to skewer it back; bring the legs close to the breast, positioning them between it and the side bones, and insert a skewer through the wings and the thick part of the thighs. If you decide to keep the head on, it should be turned around and secured to the point of the skewer.
[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGE.]
[Illustration: Roasting Partridge.]
Mode.—When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it before a nice bright fire; keep it well basted, and a few minutes before serving, flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy and bread sauce, and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the gravy should be poured over the bird.—See coloured plate, D1.
Mode.—When the bird is securely and thoroughly tied up, roast it in front of a nice, bright fire; make sure to baste it well. A few minutes before serving, sprinkle some flour on it and whip it up nicely. Plate it, and serve it with gravy and bread sauce, making sure to send it to the table hot and quickly. Pour a little gravy over the bird. —See coloured plate, D1.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, is 1s. 6d. to 2s. a brace.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, is 7.5p to 10p a dozen.
Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Sufficient,—2 for a meal.
Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.
In season from September 1st to the beginning of February.
[Illustration: PARTRIDGES.]
[Illustration: Partridges.]
THE PARTRIDGE.—This bird is to be found in nearly all the temperate countries of Europe, but is most abundant in the Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the extremes of climate, whether hot or cold. It was formerly very common in France, and is considered a table luxury in England. The instinct of this bird is frequently exemplified in a remarkable manner, for the preservation of its young. "I have seen it often," says a very celebrated writer, and an accurate observer of nature, "and once in particular, I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a young pointer, the dog ran on a brood of very small partridges; the old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable distance, when she took wing, and flew still further off, but not out of the field; on this the dog returned to me, near the place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling about, drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved her brood a second time. I have also seen, when a kite has been hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up at the bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might to preserve their brood." Partridges should be chosen young; if old, they are valueless. The young ones are generally known by their yellow legs and dark-coloured bills.
THE PARTRIDGE.—This bird can be found in almost all temperate regions of Europe, but it is most common in Ukraine, although it struggles with extreme temperatures, whether hot or cold. It was once very common in France and is considered a delicacy in England. The instinct of this bird is often shown in a remarkable way to protect its young. "I have seen it many times," says a well-known writer and keen observer of nature, "and once in particular, I witnessed an extraordinary example of a parent's effort to save its chicks. While I was hunting with a young pointer, the dog stumbled upon a small group of baby partridges; the mother bird called out, fluttered, and tumbled along right in front of the dog's nose, drawing him away for quite a distance. When she got enough distance, she took off and flew even further away, but not out of sight. The dog then returned to me, close to where the chicks were hidden in the grass. As soon as the mother bird noticed this, she flew back toward us, positioned herself right in front of the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling around, she distracted him from her young, saving her chicks a second time. I've also seen, when a kite was hovering over a group of young partridges, the adult birds fly up at the predator, screeching and fighting with all their might to protect their brood." Partridges should be chosen when they are young; if they're old, they are not worth anything. The young ones are typically identifiable by their yellow legs and dark-colored bills.
PHEASANT CUTLETS.
1040. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 pheasants, egg and bread crumbs, cayenne and salt to taste, brown gravy.
1040. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 pheasants, egg and breadcrumbs, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, brown gravy.
Mode.—Procure 3 young pheasants that have been hung a few days; pluck, draw, and wipe them inside; cut them into joints; remove the bones from the best of these; and the backbones, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables, seasoning, &c., to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of a good shape, egg and bread crumb them, broil them over a clear fire, pile them high in the dish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should be strained, flavoured, and thickened. One of the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet.
Method.—Get 3 young pheasants that have been hung for a few days; pluck, clean, and wipe them inside; cut them into pieces; remove the bones from the best pieces; and put the backbones, trimmings, etc., into a stewpan with a bit of stock, herbs, vegetables, seasoning, etc., to make the gravy. Flatten and shape the cutlets nicely, coat them in egg and breadcrumbs, then broil them over a clear fire. Stack them high on the dish and pour the strained, flavored, and thickened gravy made from the bones underneath. Stick one of the small bones on the tip of each cutlet.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 12.5p to 15p each.
Sufficient for 2 entrées.
Enough for 2 entrees.
Seasonable from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.
In season from October 1st to early February.
ROAST PHEASANT.
1041. INGREDIENTS.—Pheasant, flour, butter.
1041. INGREDIENTS.—Pheasant, flour, butter.
Choosing and Trussing.—Old pheasants may be known by the length and sharpness of their spurs; in young ones they are short and blunt. The cock bird is generally reckoned the best, except when the hen is with egg. They should hang some time before they are dressed, as, if they are cooked fresh, the flesh will be exceedingly dry and tasteless. After the bird is plucked and drawn, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and truss it in the same manner as partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, as shown in the engraving, bring it round under the wing, and fix it on to the point of the skewer.
Choosing and Trussing.—You can tell old pheasants by their long, sharp spurs; young ones have short, dull spurs. The male pheasant is usually considered the best, unless the female is laying eggs. They should be hung for a while before being prepared because if they’re cooked fresh, the meat will be very dry and bland. Once the bird is plucked and gutted, wipe the inside with a damp cloth and truss it like a partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, as shown in the illustration, bring it around under the wing and secure it to the tip of the skewer.
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
Mode.—Roast it before a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and flour and froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, a little of which should be poured round the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. 2 or 3 of the pheasant's best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as an ornament; but the fashion is not much to be commended.—See coloured plate, F1.
Mode.—Roast it in front of a hot fire, keep it well basted, and coat it nicely with flour and froth. Serve it with brown gravy, pouring a little around the bird, and have a tureen of bread sauce on the side. 2 or 3 of the pheasant's finest tail feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as a decoration; however, this trend isn't highly recommended.—See colored plate, F1.
Time.—1/2 to 1 hour, according to the size.
Time.—30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the size.
Average cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. each. Sufficient,—1 for a dish.
Average cost, £0.12 to £0.15 each. Sufficient,—1 for a dish.
Seasonable from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.
In season from October 1st to early February.
[Illustration: THE PHEASANT.]
[Illustration: THE PHEASANT.]
THE PHEASANT.—This beautiful bird is said to have been discovered by the Argonauts on the banks of the Phasis, near Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis. It is common, however, in almost all the southern parts of the European continent, and has been long naturalized in the warmest and most woody counties of England. It is very common in France; indeed, so common as to be esteemed a nuisance by the farmers. Although it has been domesticated, this is not easily accomplished, nor is its flesh so palatable then as it is in the wild state. Mr. Ude says—"It is not often that pheasants are met with possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept as long as they are in other countries. The hens, in general, are the most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs. They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. The flesh is white, tender, and has a good flavour, if you keep it long enough; if not, it is not much different from that of a common fowl or hen."
THE PHEASANT.—This beautiful bird is believed to have been discovered by the Argonauts along the banks of the Phasis, near Mount Ararat, during their journey to Colchis. However, it's common in nearly all the southern parts of Europe and has been long established in the warmest and most wooded counties of England. It's very common in France; in fact, so common that farmers consider it a nuisance. Although it can be domesticated, that's not easy to achieve, and its meat isn't as tasty as it is in the wild. Mr. Ude states—"It's rare to find pheasants with that exquisite flavor that only comes from being aged, as the dampness of this climate prevents them from being kept as long as they are in other countries. Generally, the hens are the most delicate. The cocks show their age by their spurs. They are best to eat when the blood starts to run from the bill, which is usually six days to a week after they've been killed. The meat is white, tender, and has a good flavor if you keep it long enough; otherwise, it's not much different from that of a common chicken or hen."
BRILLAT SAVARIN'S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT, a la Sainte Alliance.
BRILLAT SAVARIN'S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT, a la Sainte Alliance.
1042. When the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked (see No. 1041), it should be plucked, and not before. The bird should then be stuffed in the following manner:—Take two snipes, and draw them, putting the bodies on one plate, and the livers, &c., on another. Take off the flesh, and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a few truffles, pepper and salt to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefully with this. Cut a slice of bread, larger considerably than the bird, and cover it with the liver, &c., and a few truffles: an anchovy and a little fresh butter added to these will do no harm. Put the bread, &c., into the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is roasted, place it on the preparation, and surround it with Florida oranges.
1042. When the pheasant is ready to be cooked (see No. 1041), it should be plucked first. Next, the bird should be stuffed as follows: Take two snipes, draw them, putting the bodies on one plate and the livers, etc., on another. Remove the flesh and finely mince it with a bit of beef, lard, a few truffles, and seasoning of pepper and salt to taste, then carefully stuff the pheasant with this mixture. Slice a piece of bread that is significantly larger than the bird and cover it with the liver, etc., and a few truffles; adding an anchovy and a little fresh butter will enhance the flavor. Place the bread and mixture into the dripping pan, and when the bird is roasted, set it on top of the preparation and surround it with Florida oranges.
Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about your dinner; for a pheasant served in this way is fit for beings better than men. The pheasant itself is a very good bird; and, imbibing the dressing and the flavour of the truffle and snipe, it becomes thrice better.
Don't worry, Savarin adds, about your dinner; because a pheasant served like this is suitable for beings greater than humans. The pheasant itself is a really good bird; and, soaking up the seasoning and the flavor of the truffle and snipe, it becomes three times better.
BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).
BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Lunch Dish).
1043. INGREDIENTS.—1 pheasant, a little lard, egg and bread crumbs, salt and cayenne to taste.
1043. INGREDIENTS.—1 pheasant, a little lard, egg, and bread crumbs, salt and cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Cut the legs off at the first joint, and the remainder of the bird into neat pieces; put them into a fryingpan with a little lard, and when browned on both sides, and about half done, take them out and drain them; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil them over a moderate fire for about 10 minutes, or rather longer, and serve with mushroom-sauce, sauce piquante, or brown gravy, in which a few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed.
Mode.—Cut the legs off at the first joint and break the rest of the bird into neat pieces; place them in a frying pan with a bit of lard. Once browned on both sides and about half cooked, remove them and drain. Brush the pieces with egg and sprinkle on breadcrumbs mixed with a good amount of cayenne and salt. Broil them over a medium fire for about 10 minutes, or a little longer, and serve with mushroom sauce, spicy sauce, or brown gravy made by stewing some game bones and trimmings.
Time.—Altogether 1/2 hour. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Time.—Total of 30 minutes. Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.
In season from October 1st to the beginning of February.
THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT.—Things edible have their degrees of excellence under various circumstances: thus, asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when young. Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity: let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must except, perhaps, the medlar), with the majority of those animals whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are not good until decomposition is about to set in; and here we may mention particularly the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be eaten so soon as three days after it has been killed, it then has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished, and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper length of time,—and this can be ascertained by a slight smell and change of colour,—then it becomes a highly, flavoured dish, occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and venison. It is difficult to define any exact time to "hang" a pheasant; but any one possessed of the instincts of gastronomical science, can at once detect the right moment when a pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook knows whether a bird should be removed from the spit, or have a turn or two more.
THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT.—Different foods have varying levels of quality depending on the circumstances: for instance, asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges are best when they are young. Perfection for others only comes with maturity: take melons and most fruits, for example (except maybe the medlar), along with most animals that we eat. However, there are some that are only good right before they start to spoil; particularly, we can mention the snipe and the pheasant. If you eat the latter bird just three days after it's been killed, it won't have any special flavor; a young chicken would taste better, and a quail would have more aroma. But if kept for the right amount of time—this can be judged by a slight smell and color change—it becomes a highly flavorful dish, sitting somewhere between chicken and venison. It’s hard to pin down an exact time for “hanging” a pheasant, but anyone with a good sense of culinary science can easily tell the right moment to take down a pheasant, just as a skilled cook knows when to take a bird off the spit or if it needs a bit more time.
TO DRESS PLOVERS.
1044. INGREDIENTS.—3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread.
1044. INGREDIENTS.—3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread.
Choosing and Trussing.—Choose those that feel hard at the vent, as that shows their fatness. There are three sorts,—the grey, green, and bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but if very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for anything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made into a ragoût, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended.
Choosing and Trussing.—Pick the ones that feel firm at the vent, as that indicates they are fat. There are three types—the grey, green, and bastard plover, or lapwing. They can stay fresh for a while, but if they are very old, the feet will be quite dry. Plovers are mostly only suitable for roasting; however, they are sometimes stewed or made into a ragoût, but this method of cooking isn't really recommended.
Mode.—Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a damp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing, put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in the dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them well basted, dredge them lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them be nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which the trail should be equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good gravy, and send some to table in a tureen.
Mode.—Remove the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a damp cloth, and do not gut them; tie the legs with the head tucked under the wing. Place them over a clear fire and lay slices of moistened toast in the drippings pan to catch the juices. Keep them well basted, lightly dust them with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them get nicely browned. Serve them on the toast, with the juices evenly spread over. Pour some good gravy around the toast and serve extra in a tureen.
Time.—10 minutes to 1/4 hour.
10 minutes to a quarter hour.
Average cost, 1s. 6d. the brace, if plentiful.
Average cost, 1s. 6d. per pair, if available.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
Good for 2 people.
Seasonable.—In perfection from the beginning of September to the end of January.
Seasonable.—At its best from the start of September to the end of January.
THE PLOVER.—There are two species of this bird, the grey and the green, the former being larger than the other, and somewhat less than the woodcock. It has generally been classed with those birds which chiefly live in the water; but it would seem only to seek its food there, for many of the species breed upon the loftiest mountains. Immense flights of these birds are to be seen in the Hebrides, and other parts of Scotland; and, in the winter, large numbers are sent to the London market, which is sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very cheap. Previous to dressing, they are kept till they have a game flavour; and although their flesh is a favourite with many, it is not universally relished. The green is preferred to the grey, but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed as a great delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They arrive in England in April, live with us all the spring and summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire to Spain, and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country abounds.
THE PLOVER.—There are two types of this bird, the grey and the green, with the grey being larger than the green and slightly smaller than the woodcock. Generally, it has been categorized with birds that primarily live in water; however, it seems to only search for food there, as many of these species nest in the highest mountains. Huge flocks of these birds can be seen in the Hebrides and other areas of Scotland; during the winter, many are sent to the London market, which sometimes gets so flooded with them that they sell for very low prices. Before being prepared for cooking, they are kept until they develop a gamey flavor, and while their meat is favored by many, it's not universally enjoyed. The green plover is preferred over the grey, but both are not as good as the woodcock. Their eggs are considered a great delicacy. These birds are migratory. They arrive in England in April, stay throughout spring and summer, and by early autumn, they gather in flocks to prepare for their departure. It's believed that they then head to Spain and frequent the sheep pastures that are abundant in that country.
[Illustration: THE PLOVER.]
[Illustration: THE PLOVER.]
TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN.
1045. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 birds; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs.
1045. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 birds; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs.
Mode.—The ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young and tender, are exceedingly fine eating, and should be kept as long as possible, to be good. Pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as grouse, No. 1025, and roast them before a brisk fire. Flour and froth them nicely, and serve on buttered toast, with a tureen of brown gravy. Bread sauce, when liked, may be sent to table with them, and fried bread crumbs substituted for the toasted bread.
Mode.—Young and tender ptarmigan, or white grouse, are incredibly delicious and should be kept for as long as possible to be their best. Prepare them by plucking, drawing, and trussing in the same way as grouse, No. 1025, and roast them over a lively fire. Coat them with flour and brown them nicely, then serve on buttered toast, accompanied by a bowl of brown gravy. If preferred, bread sauce can also be served with them, and you can use fried bread crumbs instead of toasted bread.
Time.—About 1/2 hour. Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Time.—About 30 minutes. Enough,—2 for a serving.
Seasonable from the beginning of February to the end of April.
In season from early February to the end of April.
THE PTARMIGAN, OR WHITE GROUSE.—This bird is nearly the same size as red grouse, and is fond of lofty situations, where it braves the severest weather, and is found in most parts of Europe, as well as in Greenland. At Hudson's Bay they appear in such multitudes that so many as sixty or seventy are frequently taken at once in a net. As they are as tame as chickens, this is done without difficulty. Buffon says that the Ptarmigan avoids the solar heat, and prefers the frosts of the summits of the mountains; for, as the snow melts on the sides of the mountains, it ascends till it gains the top, where it makes a hole, and burrows in the snow. In winter, it flies in flocks, and feeds on the wild vegetation of the hills, which imparts to its flesh a bitter, but not altogether an unpalatable taste. It is dark-coloured, and has something of the flavour of the hare, and is greatly relished, and much sought after by some sportsmen.
THE PTARMIGAN, OR WHITE GROUSE.—This bird is about the same size as the red grouse and prefers high altitudes, where it withstands even the harshest weather. It's found in most parts of Europe and in Greenland. In Hudson's Bay, they appear in such large numbers that as many as sixty or seventy can often be captured at once in a net. They are as tame as chickens, so this is done easily. Buffon notes that the Ptarmigan shuns the heat of the sun and prefers the frosty tops of mountains; as the snow melts on the slopes, it moves upward to the peak, where it creates a hole and burrows in the snow. In winter, it flies in flocks and feeds on the wild plants of the hills, which gives its meat a bitter but still somewhat pleasant flavor. It is dark in color and has a taste similar to hare, making it highly sought after by some hunters.
[Illustration: THE PTARMIGAN.]
[Illustration: THE PTARMIGAN.]
TO DRESS QUAILS.
1046. INGREDIENTS.—Quails, butter, toast.
1046. INGREDIENTS.—Quail, butter, toast.
Mode.—These birds keep good several days, and should be roasted without drawing. Truss them in the same manner as woodcocks, No. 1062; roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve on toast.
Mode.—These birds last several days in good condition and should be roasted without being drawn. Prepare them in the same way as woodcocks, No. 1062; roast them over a clear fire, baste them well, and serve them on toast.
Time.—About 20 minutes. Average cost.—Seldom bought.
Time.—Around 20 minutes. Average cost.—Rarely purchased.
Sufficient 2 for a dish.
Enough for a dish.
Seasonable from October to December.
Seasonal from October to December.
[Illustration: THE QUAIL.]
[Illustration: THE QUAIL.]
THE QUAIL.—Quails are almost universally diffused over Europe, Asia, and Africa. Being birds of passage, they are seen in immense flocks, traversing the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to Africa, in the autumn, and returning again in the spring, frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of the Archipelago, which, with their vast numbers, they almost completely cover. On the western coasts of the kingdom of Naples, they have appeared in such prodigious numbers, that, within the compass of four or five miles, as many as a hundred thousand have been taken in a day. "From these circumstances," says a writer on natural history, "it appears highly probable that the quails which supplied the Israelites with food during their journey through the wilderness, were sent thither, on their passage to the north, by a wind from the south-west, sweeping over Egypt and Ethiopia towards the shores of the Red Sea." In England they are not very numerous, although they breed in it; and many of them are said to remain throughout the year, changing their quarters from the interior parts of the country for the seacoast.
THE QUAIL.—Quails are found almost everywhere in Europe, Asia, and Africa. As migratory birds, they are seen in huge flocks flying across the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to Africa in the fall and returning again in the spring, often stopping on many of the islands in the Archipelago, where their vast numbers nearly cover the land. On the western coasts of the kingdom of Naples, they have appeared in such massive quantities that, within just four or five miles, as many as a hundred thousand have been caught in a single day. "From these circumstances," says a natural history writer, "it seems very likely that the quails that fed the Israelites during their journey through the wilderness were sent there, on their way north, by a wind from the south-west, blowing over Egypt and Ethiopia towards the shores of the Red Sea." In England, they are not very common, although they do breed there, and many are said to stay year-round, moving from the inland areas to the coast.
TO DRESS SNIPES.
1047. INGREDIENTS.—Snipes, butter, flour, toast.
1047. INGREDIENTS.—Snipes, butter, flour, toast.
Mode.—These, like woodcocks, should be dressed without being drawn. Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss them with the head under the wing, having previously skinned that and the neck. Twist the legs at the first joint, press the feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer through these and the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them on to the jack or spit, and roast before a clear fire for about 1/4 hour. Put some pieces of buttered toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails; flour and froth the birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on them, and pour round, but not over them, a little good brown gravy. They should be sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not be worth eating.—See coloured plate M1.
Mode.—These, like woodcocks, should be prepared without being gutted. Pluck and clean them on the outside, then truss them with the head tucked under the wing, after skinning the head and neck. Twist the legs at the first joint, press the feet against the thighs, and insert a skewer through these and the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them to the jack or spit, and roast them over a clear fire for about 15 minutes. Put some pieces of buttered toast into the dripping pan to catch the juices; flour and froth the birds nicely, serve the pieces of toast with the snipes on top, and pour a little good brown gravy around them, but not over. They should be served very hot and quickly, or they won't be worth eating.—See coloured plate M1.
[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE.]
[Illustration: ROAST SNIPE.]
Time.—About 1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. to 2s. the brace.
Duration.—About 15 minutes. Average cost, 1.5 to 2.0 for a pair.
Sufficient,—4 for a dish.
Enough,—4 for a dish.
Seasonable from November to February.
Seasonal from November to February.
Note.—Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner.
Note.—Ortolans are prepared and cooked in the same way.
[Illustration: THE SNIPE.]
[Illustration: THE SNIPE.]
THE SNIPE.—This is a migratory bird, and is generally distributed over Europe. It is found in most parts of England, in the high as well as the low lands, depending much on the weather. In very wet seasons it resorts to the hills, but at other times frequents marshes, where it can penetrate the earth with its bill, hunting for worms, which form its principal food. In the Hebrides and the Orkneys snipes are plentiful, and they are fattest in frosty weather. In the breeding season the snipe changes its note entirely from that which it has in the winter. The male will keep on wing for an hour together, mounting like a lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise; then, with a bleating sound, not unlike that made by an old goat, it will descend with great velocity, especially if the female be sitting in her nest, from which it will not wander far.
THE SNIPE.—This is a migratory bird that’s commonly found throughout Europe. It appears in many areas of England, both high and low, depending a lot on the weather. During very wet seasons, it goes to the hills, but at other times, it hangs out in marshes where it can use its beak to dig into the ground, looking for worms, which are its main food source. In the Hebrides and the Orkneys, snipe are abundant, and they get the fattest in cold weather. During the breeding season, the snipe completely changes its call from what it has in the winter. The male can stay in the air for an hour at a time, rising like a lark and making a sharp piping sound; then, with a bleating noise that’s similar to an old goat, it will quickly drop down, especially if the female is sitting on her nest, from which she won’t stray far.
ROAST TEAL.
1048. INGREDIENTS.—Teal, butter, a little flour.
1048. INGREDIENTS.—Teal, butter, a bit of flour.
Mode.—Choose fat plump birds, after the frost has set in, as they are generally better flavoured; truss them in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022; roast them before a brisk fire, and keep them well basted. Serve with brown or orange gravy, water-cresses, and a cut lemon. The remains of teal make excellent hash.
Mode.—Choose fat, plump birds after the frost sets in, as they usually have better flavor; prepare them for cooking like wild duck, No. 1022; roast them over a strong fire and baste them well. Serve with brown or orange gravy, watercress, and a sliced lemon. Leftover teal makes a great hash.
Time.—From 9 to 15 minutes.
Duration.—From 9 to 15 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. each; but seldom bought.
Average cost, 1 shilling each; but rarely purchased.
Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Enough,—2 for a dish.
Seasonable from October to February.
In season from October to February.
ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.
1049. INGREDIENTS.—Venison, coarse flour-and-water paste, a little flour.
1049. INGREDIENTS.—Venison, coarse flour-and-water dough, a little flour.
Mode.—Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and the cleft of the hoof smooth and close; the greater quantity of fat there is, the better quality will the meat be. As many people object to venison when it has too much haut goût, ascertain how long it has been kept, by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone; when this is withdrawn, its sweetness can be judged of. With care and attention, it will keep good a fortnight, unless the weather is very mild. Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not the least damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper, as a preventative against the fly. When required for use, wash it in warm water, and dry it well with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper, put it over the fat, lay a coarse paste, about 1/2 inch in thickness, over this, and then a sheet or two of strong paper. Tie the whole firmly on to the haunch with twine, and put the joint down to a strong close fire; baste the venison immediately, to prevent the paper and string from burning, and continue this operation, without intermission, the whole of the time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before it is done, carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour, and baste well with butter until it is nicely frothed, and of a nice pale-brown colour; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper, and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured gravy, in a tureen, and currant jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port wine, and serve that also in a tureen. As the principal object in roasting venison is to preserve the fat, the above is the best mode of doing so where expense is not objected to; but, in ordinary cases, the paste may be dispensed with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead: it will not require so long cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very hot plates to table, as the venison fat so soon freezes: to be thoroughly enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neck and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner.
Mode.—Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and the cleft of the hoof should be smooth and close; the more fat there is, the better quality the meat will be. Since many people dislike venison when it has too much haut goût, find out how long it's been kept by inserting a sharp skewer into the meat near the bone; when you pull it out, you can assess its sweetness. With care, it will stay good for about two weeks, unless the weather is very mild. Keep it completely dry by wiping it with clean cloths until no dampness remains, and sprinkle powdered ginger or pepper over it to prevent flies. When you're ready to use it, wash it in warm water and dry it well with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper, place it over the fat, spread a coarse paste about half an inch thick over this, and then cover it with one or two sheets of strong paper. Secure everything tightly to the haunch with twine, and roast it over a strong, close fire; baste the venison immediately to prevent the paper and string from burning, and keep doing this continuously while it cooks. About 20 minutes before it's done, carefully take off the paste and paper, dust the joint with flour, and baste it well with butter until it's nicely frothy and a light brown color; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper and serve with good, strong, unflavored gravy in a tureen, along with currant jelly; or melt the jelly with a little port wine and serve that in a tureen as well. Since the main goal in roasting venison is to preserve the fat, this is the best method if cost isn't an issue; however, in regular cases, you can skip the paste and just use a double layer of paper over the roast instead: it won’t need as long to cook without the paste. Don’t forget to serve very hot plates, as the venison fat can freeze quickly; to be truly enjoyed by connoisseurs, it should be served on hot-water plates. The neck and shoulder can be roasted in the same way.
[Illustration: ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.]
[Illustration: ROASTED VENISON HAUNCH.]
Time.—A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5 hours; haunch of doe venison, 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours. Allow less time without the paste.
Time.—A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5 hours; haunch of doe venison, 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 hours. Allow less time without the paste.
Average cost, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 6p to 7p per lb.
Sufficient for 18 persons.
Enough for 18 people.
Seasonable.—Buck venison in greatest perfection from June to Michaelmas; doe venison from November to the end of January.
Seasonable.—Buck venison is best from June to Michaelmas; doe venison is available from November until the end of January.
THE DEER.—This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild and woody regions. In their contentions, both with each other and the rest of the brute creation, these animals not only use their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet. Some of the species are employed as beasts of draught, whilst the flesh of the whole is wholesome, and that of some of the kinds, under the name of "venison," is considered very delicious. Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms by which the objects of their pursuit are characterized: thus the stag is called, the first year, a calf, or hind-calf; the second, a knobber; the third, a brock; the fourth, a staggard; the fifth, a stag; and the sixth, a hart. The female is, the first year, called a calf; the second, a hearse; and the third, a hind. In Britain, the stag has become scarcer than it formerly was; but, in the Highlands of Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen, ranging over the vast mountains of the north; and some of the stags of a great size. In former times, the great feudal chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns, assembling some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer into the toils, or to such stations as were occupied by their chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of concocting rebellion, an act was passed prohibitory of such assemblages. In the "Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described.
THE DEER.—This active group of animals mainly lives in wild and wooded areas. In their disputes, both with each other and other creatures, they not only use their antlers but also kick fiercely with their front legs. Some species are used as draft animals, while the meat of all of them is healthy, and the flesh of some kinds, known as "venison," is considered very tasty. Hunting enthusiasts have created specific terms to describe their targets: thus, a male deer is called a calf or hind-calf in its first year; a knobber in the second; a brock in the third; a staggard in the fourth; a stag in the fifth; and a hart in the sixth. The female is called a calf in her first year; a hearse in the second; and a hind in the third. In Britain, the stag is rarer than it used to be; however, in the Highlands of Scotland, herds of four or five hundred can still be seen, roaming the vast northern mountains, with some stags being quite large. In the past, the great feudal lords would hunt with the grandeur of eastern kings, gathering thousands of their clans to drive the deer into traps or to spots where their leaders were stationed. Since this activity was sometimes used to gather their followers for planning rebellions, a law was passed to prohibit such gatherings. A deer-hunting scene like this is beautifully depicted in Sir Walter Scott's "Waverley."
VENISON.—This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of deer, and is esteemed as very delicious. Different species of deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case with the Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large proportion of his wealth. There—
VENISON.—This is the name for the meat from certain types of deer and is considered very tasty. Different species of deer can be found in both warm and cold climates, and in many cases, they are extremely valuable to humans. This is particularly true for the Laplander, whose reindeer makes up a significant part of his wealth. There—
"The reindeer unharness'd in freedom can play,
And safely o'er Odin's steep precipice stray,
Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly,
And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky."
"The reindeer, unhitched and free, can frolic,
And safely roam across Odin's steep cliff,
While the wolf can retreat to the forest's depths,
And howl at the moon as she moves through the sky."
In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the goat, and the sheep. From its milk is produced cheese; from its skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh furnishes food. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty, and much admired. He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is supposed to have been originally introduced into this country from France. About a century back he was to be found wild in some of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods on the banks of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer formed food for the not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck's larder, in the admirable fiction of "Ivanhoe;" and at a later period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the "ingenious" William Shakspeare to London, to become a common player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived.
In that country, it replaces the horse, cow, goat, and sheep. From its milk, cheese is made; from its skin, clothing; from its tendons, bowstrings and thread; from its horns, glue; from its bones, spoons; and its flesh provides food. In England, we have the stag, a beautiful animal that is highly admired. It is native to many parts of Europe and is believed to have originally come to this country from France. About a century ago, it could be found wild in some of the rugged, mountainous areas of Wales, as well as in the forests of Exmoor in Devonshire, and the woods along the Tamar River. In the Middle Ages, deer became food for the not-so-abstinent monks, like represented by Friar Tuck's pantry in the classic story "Ivanhoe;" and later on, it was a deer-stealing escapade that prompted the “ingenious” William Shakespeare to move to London and become a common actor and the greatest playwright ever.
HASHED VENISON.
1050. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of roast venison, its own or mutton gravy, thickening of butter and flour.
1050. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover roast venison, its own or mutton gravy, and a thickening made from butter and flour.
Mode.—Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there is sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy; let them stew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little flour and butter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add the strained gravy, and give it a boil up; skim and strain again, and, when a little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by the side of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve: do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly to table with it.
Mode.—Cut the meat from the bones into neat slices, and if there's enough of its own gravy left, add the meat to this, as it's better than any other option. If there isn’t enough, put the bones and scraps into a pot with about a pint of mutton gravy; let them simmer gently for an hour, then strain the gravy. Add a bit of flour and butter to the pot, stirring until it turns brown, then pour in the strained gravy and bring it to a boil; skim and strain again, and when it's slightly cool, add the slices of venison. Place the pot by the fire, and when it's about to simmer, serve it: don’t let it boil, or the meat will become tough. Serve red-currant jelly with it.
Time.—Altogether, 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—Total, 1.5 hours.
Seasonable.—Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from November to the end of January.
Seasonable.—Buck venison, from June to late September; doe venison, from November to the end of January.
Note.—A small quantity of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may be added to enrich the gravy: these ingredients must, however, be used very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison.
Note.—A little bit of Harvey's sauce, ketchup, or port wine can be added to enhance the gravy: however, these ingredients should be used very sparingly, or they will overpower the flavor of the venison.
[Illustration: FALLOW-DEER (BUCK). FALLOW-DEER (DOE).]
[Illustration: Fallow Deer (Buck). Fallow Deer (Doe).]
THE FALLOW-DEER.—This is the domestic or park deer; and no two animals can make a nearer approach to each other than the stag and it, and yet no two animals keep more distinct, or avoid each other with a more inveterate animosity. They never herd or intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an intermediate race; it is even rare, unless they have been transported thither, to find fellow-deer in a country where stags are numerous. He is very easily tamed, and feeds upon many things which the stag refuses: he also browzes closer than the stag, and preserves his venison better. The doe produces one fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. In short, they resemble the stag in all his natural habits, and the greatest difference between them is the duration of their lives: the stag, it is said, lives to the age of thirty-five or forty years, and the fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. As they are smaller than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner completed.
THE FALLOW-DEER.—This is the domestic or park deer; and no two animals can get closer to each other than the stag and the fallow deer, yet they have a strong dislike for one another and avoid each other. They never form herds or mix together, so they don't create any hybrid offspring; it's even uncommon to find other deer in an area where stags are abundant, unless they’ve been brought in. The fallow deer is very easy to tame and eats many things that the stag won't touch; it also grazes closer to the ground than the stag and keeps its meat better. The doe usually has one fawn, sometimes two, but rarely three. Overall, they share many natural behaviors with the stag, but the biggest difference is their lifespan: the stag can live up to thirty-five or forty years, while the fallow deer typically only lives about twenty. Since they are smaller than the stag, it's likely that they reach maturity faster.
STEWED VENISON.
1051. INGREDIENTS.—A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2 glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1-1/2 pint of weak stock or gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole allspice.
1051. INGREDIENTS.—A shoulder of venison, a few slices of mutton fat, 2 glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1.5 pints of weak stock or gravy, 0.5 teaspoon of whole pepper, 0.5 teaspoon of whole allspice.
Mode.—Hang the venison till tender; take out the bone, flatten the meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat, which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine; sprinkle these with a little fine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up, and bind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black pepper, and port wine; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very gently, from 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and dish the meat; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best mode of cooking it.
Method.—Hang the venison until it's tender; remove the bone, flatten the meat with a rolling pin, and place a few slices of mutton fat on top, which have been soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine. Sprinkle these with a little ground allspice and pepper, roll the meat up, and secure it tightly with string. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and the right amount of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black pepper, and port wine; cover it tightly and simmer very gently for 3-1/2 to 4 hours. When it's completely tender, remove the string, plate the meat, strain the gravy over it, and serve it with red-currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fatty, this is the best way to cook it.
Time.—3-1/2 to 4 hours.
Duration.—3.5 to 4 hours.
Average cost, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 6p to 7.5p per lb.
Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons.
Sufficient for 10 or 12 people.
Seasonable.—Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison, from November to the end of January.
Seasonable.—Buck venison, from June to the end of September; doe venison, from November to the end of January.
[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK.]
[Illustration: THE ROEBUCK.]
THE ROEBUCK.—This is the Certuscapreolus, or common roe, and is of a reddish-brown colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as well as of Europe. It has great grace in its movements, and stands about two feet seven inches high, and has a length of about three feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to eight inches.
THE ROEBUCK.—This is the Certuscapreolus, or common roe, and is reddish-brown in color. It lives in both Asia and Europe. It moves with great grace and stands about two feet seven inches tall, measuring around three feet nine in length. Its horns range from six to eight inches.
[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND.]
[Illustration: THE STAG. THE HIND.]
THE STAG.—The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow-deer, and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round instead of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the first year he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is short and rough, and covered with a thin hairy skin. The next year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third they have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the sixth year; although this number is not always certain, for sometimes they are more, and often less. After the sixth year, the antlers do not always increase; and, although in number they may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is then estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the thickness of the branch which sustains them, than by their variety. Large as these horns seem, however, they are shed every year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes place in the spring. When the old horns have fallen off, the new ones do not make their appearance immediately; but the bones of the skull ore seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or skin, which enwraps the bones of all animals. After a short time, however, the skin begins to swell, and to form a sort of tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoot forth the antlers from each side; and, in a short time, in proportion as the animal is in condition, the entire horns are completed. The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually shed their horns first, which generally happens towards the latter end of February or the beginning of March. Such as are between five and six years old shed them about the middle or latter end of March; those still younger in the month of April; and the youngest of all not till the middle or latter end of May. These rules, though generally true, are subject to variations; for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the horns.—The HIND has no horns, and is less fitted for being hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care of her young, and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become a prey to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of the cat kind, with the wolf, the dog, the eagle, and the falcon, are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst the stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has young, therefore, it would seem that the courage of the male is transferred to the female, for she defends them with the most resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before the hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whose life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her own.
THE STAG.—The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and the hind is the female. He is much larger than the fallow deer, and his age is shown by his horns, which are round instead of being palm-shaped like those of the fallow deer. In the first year, he has no horns, just a small, rough, horn-like growth covered with a thin layer of hair. The next year, the horns are single and straight; by the third year, he has two antlers, three in the fourth year, four in the fifth, and five in the sixth year; though this number isn’t always consistent, as sometimes there are more and often fewer. After the sixth year, the number of antlers doesn’t always increase; even though they might reach six or seven on each side, the age of the animal is then estimated more by the size and thickness of the antlers than by their count. As impressive as these horns appear, they are shed every year, replaced by new ones, which typically occurs in the spring. Once the old horns drop off, the new ones don’t appear right away; instead, the skull bones are covered with a transparent layer of skin, called periosteum, which surrounds the bones of all animals. After a short while, this skin starts to swell and form a sort of bump. Eventually, from this bump, the antlers emerge from each side of the head, and over time, depending on the animal’s condition, the complete horns are formed. The tips of the antlers aren’t fully solid until they’ve grown to their full size. Older stags usually shed their antlers first, which typically happens toward the end of February or the beginning of March. Stags that are between five and six years old shed them around the middle or end of March; those younger do so in April; and the youngest don’t shed until the middle or end of May. While these patterns are generally true, they can vary; for example, a harsh winter may delay the shedding of horns.—The HIND has no horns and is less suited for hunting than the male. She takes great care of her young, hiding them in the densest thickets to protect them from numerous predators. All the predatory animals, like cats, wolves, dogs, eagles, and falcons, constantly try to find her hiding spot, while the stag himself can be a threat to his own offspring. When she has young, it seems that the male’s courage is transferred to the female, as she defends them with great bravery. If she is chased by hunters, she will run from the hounds for half the day and then return to her young, risking her own life to keep them safe.
[Illustration: ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW).]
[Illustration: ELAND (MALE). ELAND (FEMALE).]
THE NEW VENISON.—The deer population of our splendid English parks was, until a few years since, limited to two species, the fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came to be a question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park in England have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes, and rich pastures of his domain? The temperate regions of the whole world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant, valuable either for their individual beauty, or for their availability to gastronomic purposes.
THE NEW VENISON.—The deer population in our beautiful English parks was, until a few years ago, limited to two species: the fallow deer and the red deer. However, since the fallow deer is a non-native animal that was introduced relatively recently, it raised the question of why any deer park owner in England shouldn't have the luxury of at least six different species of deer and antelopes to enhance the hills, valleys, leafy undergrowth, and lush pastures of their land. The temperate regions across the world could provide examples of these majestic animals, valued either for their individual beauty or for their culinary potential.
During the last four or live years a few spirited English noblemen have made the experiment of breeding foreign deer in their parks, and have obtained such a decided success, that it may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a course which will eventually give to England's rural scenery a new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of the choicest character.
Over the past four or five years, some enthusiastic English noblemen have tried breeding foreign deer in their parks, and they’ve achieved such great success that we can hope their example will inspire others to do the same. This could ultimately add a new element of beauty to England's countryside and provide a new, high-quality dish for English tables.
A practical solution of this interesting question was made by Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January, 1809. On that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was killed for the table. The noble beast was thus described:—"He weighed 1,176 lbs. as he dropped; huge as a short-horn, but with bone not half the size; active as a deer, stately in all his paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap, and strong sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and their progeny, all English-born, like himself." Three pairs of the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the picturesque elopes throughout the day, and to return to their home at pleasure. "Here, during winter, they are assisted with roots and hay, but in summer they have nothing but the pasture of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more than cattle of the best description." Travellers and sportsmen say that the male eland is unapproached in the quality of his flesh by any ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an enormous size, and lays on fat with as great facility as a true short-horn; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely superior. The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and delicate. It was tried in every fashion,—braised brisket, roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet sauté, boiled aitchbone, &c.,—and in all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of surpassing value had been added to the products of the English park.
A practical solution to this intriguing question was achieved by Viscount Hill at Hawkestone Park, Salop, in January 1809. On that occasion, a magnificent eland, a well-adapted member of the species native to the South African wilderness, was killed for dinner. The noble creature was described as follows: "He weighed 1,176 lbs. when he fell; large like a short-horn, but with bones not half as thick; as agile as a deer, dignified in all his movements, perfect in shape, vibrant in color, with a large dewlap, and strong, sculpted horns. This eland roamed majestically on the hillside, where he lived with his mates and their offspring, all born in England, just like him." Three pairs of the same species of deer were left to roam freely on the picturesque slopes during the day and return home as they pleased. "Here, during winter, they are fed roots and hay, but in summer, they only have the park's grass, so in terms of cost, they are no more expensive than high-quality cattle." Travelers and hunters claim that the male eland has unmatched meat quality compared to any ruminant in South Africa; it grows to a massive size and gains fat just as easily as a true short-horn, while being vastly superior in texture and flavor. The lean meat is exceptionally good, and the fat is firm and delicate. It was cooked in every manner—braised brisket, roasted ribs, broiled steaks, sautéed filet, boiled aitchbone, etc.—and in every case, it demonstrated that a new meat of extraordinary quality had been added to the products of the English park.
When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is pleasing to record that Lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of the small Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in breeding the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first acclimated in England by the late Earl of Derby, between the years 1835-1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his death, in 1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of elands, consisting of two males and three females. Here the animals have been treated with the greatest success, and from the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly reproduced, without the loss of a single calf.
When we hear such a rewarding story about the eland, it’s nice to note that Lord Hastings has a herd of Canadian wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another of small Indian hog-deer; and that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in breeding the impressive Persian deer. The eland was first brought to England by the late Earl of Derby, between 1835 and 1851, at his menagerie in Knowsley. After his death in 1851, he left his eland breed to the Zoological Society, which included two males and three females. The animals have been cared for very well, and since 1853, the females have consistently given birth without losing a single calf.
ROAST WIDGEON.
1052. INGREDIENTS.—Widgeons, a little flour, butter.
1052. INGREDIENTS.—Widgeons, a little flour, butter.
Mode.—These are trussed in the same manner as wild duck, No. 1022, but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them down to a brisk fire; flour, and baste them continually with butter, and, when browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and quickly. Serve with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a cut lemon.
Mode.—These are prepared in the same way as wild duck, No. 1022, but shouldn't be left for too long before they're cooked. Start them over a hot flame; dust with flour, and keep basting them with butter. Once they're browned and nicely frothy, serve them hot and quickly. Pair with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a lemon wedge.
Time.—1/4 hour; if liked well done, 20 minutes.
Time.—15 minutes; if you prefer it well done, 20 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. each; but seldom bought.
Average cost, 1 shilling each; but rarely purchased.
Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Enough,—2 for a dish.
Seasonable from October to February.
Available from October to February.
[Illustration: ROAST WOODCOCK.]
[Illustration: Roast Woodcock.]
ROAST WOODCOCK.
1053. INGREDIENTS.—Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast.
1053. INGREDIENTS.—Woodcocks; butter, flour, toast.
Mode.—Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epicures, considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well outside; truss them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the thighs; skin the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing. Place some slices of toast in the dripping-pan to catch the trails, allowing a piece of toast for each bird. Roast before a clear fire from 15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and flour and froth them nicely. When done, dish the pieces of toast with the birds upon them, and pour round a very little gravy; send some more to table in a tureen. These are most delicious birds when well cooked, but they should not be kept too long: when the feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit for table.—See coloured plate, I 1.
Mode.—Woodcocks shouldn’t be drawn like trails, as food enthusiasts consider them a real delicacy. Clean them well on the outside; truss them with their legs close to the body, and the feet pressing against the thighs; skin the neck and head, and tuck the beak under the wing. Place some slices of toast in the dripping pan to catch the drippings, allowing one piece of toast for each bird. Roast in front of a clear fire for 15 to 25 minutes; keep them well basted, and dust them with flour for a nice finish. When they’re done, serve the pieces of toast with the birds on top, and pour a little gravy around them; send some more to the table in a tureen. These birds are incredibly delicious when cooked properly, but they shouldn’t be held for too long: when the feathers start to drop or come out easily, they’re ready to eat.—See coloured plate, I 1.
Time.—-When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes; if liked well done, allow an extra 5 minutes.
Time.—-If you prefer it medium rare, cook for 15 to 20 minutes; if you prefer it well done, add an extra 5 minutes.
Average cost.—Seldom bought.
Average cost.—Rarely purchased.
Sufficient,—2 for a dish.
Enough,—2 for a dish.
Seasonable from November to February.
In season from November to February.
[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK.]
[Illustration: THE WOODCOCK.]
THE WOODCOCK.—This bird being migratory in its habits, has, consequently, no settled habitation; it cannot be considered as the property of any one, and is, therefore, not game by law. It breeds in high northern latitudes, and the time of its appearance and disappearance in Sweden coincides exactly with that of its arrival in and return from Great Britain. On the coast of Suffolk its vernal and autumnal visits have been accurately observed. In the first week of October it makes its appearance in small numbers, but in November and December it appears in larger numbers, and always after sunset, and most gregariously. In the same manner as woodcocks take their leave of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy, making the northern and colder climates their summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy in the latter part of October, but continue there only a few weeks, the country being hard, and unable to supply them with such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and, during the same season, in Barbary, where the Africans name them "the ass of the partridge." It has been asserted that they have been seen as far south as Egypt, which is the most remote region to which they can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other side, they are common in Japan. Those which resort to the countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the mountains of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of the woodcock is held in high estimation; hence the bird is eagerly sought after by the sportsman.
THE WOODCOCK.—This bird is migratory, which means it doesn't have a permanent home; it can't be owned by anyone, and therefore, it isn't considered game by law. It breeds in high northern regions, and its arrival and departure times in Sweden align perfectly with when it comes to and leaves Great Britain. In Suffolk, its spring and autumn visits have been closely monitored. It usually shows up in small numbers during the first week of October, but in November and December, it arrives in larger groups, always after sunset and mostly together. Just like woodcocks leave us, they also depart from France, Germany, and Italy, heading to northern and colder places for the summer. They visit Burgundy in late October but only stay a few weeks since the area is hard and can't provide the food they need. In winter, they can be found as far south as Smyrna and Aleppo, and during the same season, in Barbary, where people in Africa call them "the donkey of the partridge." Some have claimed they have been spotted as far south as Egypt, the farthest they can be traced on that side of the eastern world; on the other side, they are common in Japan. The ones that travel to the Levant are believed to come from the mountains of Armenia or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. Woodcock meat is highly valued, which is why hunters actively seek this bird.
GAME CARVING.
BLACKCOCK.
[Illustration: BLACKCOCK.]
[Illustration: BLACKCOCK.]
1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of the guests at a dinner-table; for game seems pre-eminently to be composed of such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt practitioner appears to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and favourite dishes, than larger and more robust pièces de résistance. As described at recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or without the head on; and although we do not personally object to the appearance of the head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be more in vogue to serve it without. The carving is not difficult, but should be elegantly and deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in the direction of the dotted line from 2 to 1, should be taken off, the merrythought displaced and the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from 3 to 4, and following the directions given under the head of boiled fowl, No. 1000, reserving the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem the brains of this bird.
1054. Skillfully carving game definitely enhances the enjoyment of guests at the dinner table; game is especially delicate, with such fine limbs and tender meat that a clumsy carver does a disservice to these lovely and popular dishes compared to larger, heartier main courses. As noted in recipe No. 1019, this bird can be served with or without the head; while we don't personally mind the head's appearance as shown in the illustration, it seems to be more fashionable to serve it without. Carving isn't difficult, but it should be done elegantly and expertly. Slices from the breast should be cut along the dotted line from 2 to 1, the merrythought should be removed, and the leg and wing should come off by running the knife from 3 to 4, following the instructions under boiled fowl, No. 1000, keeping the thigh, which is considered a great delicacy, for the most esteemed guests, some of whom may also appreciate the bird's brains.
WILD DUCK.
[Illustration: WILD DUCK.]
[Illustration: WILD DUCK.]
1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes are not usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of each, which are considered the best-flavoured and the primest. Of wild-fowl, the breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines, from 1 to 2; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by passing the knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions described for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000.
1055. Since game is almost always served as a delicacy, rather than as a dish meant to satisfy a full appetite, these dishes are not usually completely cut up. Instead, only the parts that are considered the tastiest and most premium are served. For wild birds, epicures typically think the breast is the only part worth eating, and slices are cut from this in the direction indicated by the lines, from 1 to 2. If needed, the leg and wing can be removed by slicing from 3 to 4 and generally following the carving instructions for boiled chicken outlined in No. 1000.
ROAST HARE.
[Illustration: ROAST HARE.]
[Illustration: ROASTED RABBIT.]
1056. The "Grand Carver" of olden times, a functionary of no ordinary dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his skill and grace had an opportunity of display. Diners à la Russe may possibly, erewhile, save modern gentlemen the necessity of learning the art which was in auld lang syne one of the necessary accomplishments of the youthful squire; but, until side-tables become universal, or till we see the office of "grand carver" once more instituted, it will be well for all to learn how to assist at the carving of this dish, which, if not the most elegant in appearance, is a very general favourite. The hare, having its head to the left, as shown in the woodcut, should be first served by cutting slices from each side of the backbone, in the direction of the lines from 3 to 4. After these prime parts are disposed of, the leg should next be disengaged by cutting round the line indicated by the figures 5 to 6. The shoulders will then be taken off by passing the knife round from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should now be divided by cutting quite through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2, taking care to feel with the point of the knife for a joint where the back may be readily penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any bone in helping hare; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs and placed alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where men-cooks are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare, especially in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered in connection with carving hare is, that plenty of gravy should accompany each helping; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry, will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuffing is also served with it; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.
1056. The "Grand Carver" from back in the day, a position of considerable importance, was delighted when he had a hare to carve, as his skill and elegance had the chance to shine. Diners à la Russe might possibly save modern gentlemen from needing to learn this skill, which was once a crucial accomplishment for young squires; however, until side-tables become common or we see the role of "grand carver" reinstated, it's a good idea for everyone to learn how to help carve this dish, which, if not the most visually appealing, is quite popular. The hare, head to the left as illustrated in the woodcut, should first be served by slicing pieces from each side of the backbone, following the lines from 3 to 4. After those prime cuts are taken care of, the leg should be separated by cutting around the line marked by figures 5 to 6. The shoulders can then be removed by cutting around from 7 to 8. The back of the hare should be divided by cutting through its spine, as shown by the line from 1 to 2, making sure to feel with the knife's tip for a joint where the back can be easily penetrated. Typically, no bones are served when helping hare; therefore, the meat should be sliced from the legs and placed alone on the plate. In larger establishments, especially where there are male cooks, the backbone of the hare is often removed, which makes the carving process significantly easier. A key point to remember when carving hare is that plenty of gravy should accompany each serving; otherwise, this naturally dry dish will lose much of its flavor and become a disappointment. Stuffing is also served with it, and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, along with the hare's brains, are considered delicacies by many food enthusiasts.
PARTRIDGES.
[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.]
[Illustration: ROAST PARTRIDGES.]
1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game bird. The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife sharply along the top of the breastbone of the bird, and cut it quite through, thus dividing it into two precisely equal and similar parts, in the same manner as carving a pigeon, No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into three pieces; viz., by severing a small wing and leg on either side from the body, by following the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut; thus making 2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third plate. The most elegant manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and then cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to 2: this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce should be served to each guest.
1057. There are several ways to carve this well-known game bird. The most common method is to run the knife sharply along the top of the breastbone and cut all the way through, dividing it into two equal pieces, similar to how you carve a pigeon, No. 1003. Another option is to cut it into three pieces by removing a small wing and leg on either side from the body, following the line 1 to 2 in the upper illustration; this way, you can create two servings, with the breast left for a third plate. The most elegant approach is to pull the body away from the legs and then cut through the breast along the line 1 to 2: this method will yield four or more small servings. A bit of bread sauce should be served with each plate.
GROUSE.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
1058. GROUSE may be carved in the way first described in carving partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and this part of many game birds is considered the finest flavoured.
1058. GROUSE can be carved in the same way as described for carving partridge. Many people highly value the backbone of the grouse, and this part of many game birds is regarded as the best tasting.
PHEASANT.
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
[Illustration: ROAST PHEASANT.]
1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1: these are the prime pieces. If there be more guests to satisfy than these slices will serve, then let the legs and wings be disengaged in the same manner as described in carving boiled fowl, No. 1000, the point where the wing joins the neckbone being carefully found. The merrythought will come off in the same way as that of a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those which are most considered in a fowl.
1059. To carve the breast, position the fork securely and have the carver slice along the lines from 2 to 1: these are the best portions. If there are more guests than these slices can serve, then detach the legs and wings in the same way as described in carving boiled chicken, No. 1000, making sure to locate the connection where the wing meets the neckbone. The wishbone will come off just like it does in a chicken. The most prized parts are the same as those that are highly regarded in a chicken.
SNIPE.
[Illustration: SNIPE.]
[Illustration: SNIPE.]
1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole, to a gentleman; but, in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite through the centre, from 1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and like portions, and put only one half on the plate.
1060. One of these small but tasty birds can be served whole to a gentleman; however, when serving a lady, it’s better to cut them completely in half from 1 to 2, dividing them into equal portions, and place only one half on the plate.
HAUNCH OF VENISON.
[Illustration: HAUNCH OF VENISON.]
[Illustration: VENISON HAUNCH.]
1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to exercise his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know, there is but little difficulty in the performance. An incision being made completely down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1 to 2, the gravy will then be able easily to flow; when slices, not too thick, should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3; that end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so that he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although some epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are superior to others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the slices cut above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to serve each guest with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious carver will be the best carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to chill, when it loses much of its charm.
1061. Here’s a great dish for a knight with a carving knife to show off his skills, and the good news is that it’s not too difficult to pull off. Make a cut all the way down to the bone along the line from 1 to 2, and the gravy will flow easily. Then, cut slices that aren’t too thick along the haunch, as shown by the line from 4 to 3; make sure the end of the joint marked 3 is facing the carver, so he can have better control over it. While some food lovers might insist that certain parts of the haunch are better than others, we’re skeptical that there’s much difference between the slices above and below the line. Remember to serve each guest a piece of fat, and the quickest carver will be the best, as, like mutton, venison starts to cool down quickly and loses a lot of its appeal.
WOODCOCK.
[Illustration: WOODCOCK.]
[Illustration: WOODCOCK.]
1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in carving partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is considered the tit-bit of a woodcock, and by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This bird is served in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection with the pheasant, viz., on toast which has received its drippings whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany each plate.
1062. This bird, similar to a partridge, can be cut precisely in half or divided into three servings, as outlined in the carving instructions for partridge (No. 1057). The backbone is regarded as the best part of a woodcock, and many also consider the thigh a delicious treat. This bird is served in the way recommended by Brillat Savarin, alongside the pheasant, specifically on toast that has absorbed its juices while roasting; a piece of this toast should always come with each plate.
LANDRAIL.
1063. LANDRAIL, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.—See No. 1060.
1063. LANDRAIL, being prepared like Snipe, except that it is drawn, can be carved in the same way.—See No. 1060.
PTARMIGAN.
1064. PTARMIGAN, being of much the same size, and trussed in the same manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described in Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.
1064. PTARMIGAN, being about the same size and prepared in the same way as the red-bird, can be carved using the techniques described in Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.
QUAILS.
1065. QUAILS, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be similarly carved.—See No. 1062.
1065. QUAILS, when prepared and served like Woodcock, can be carved in the same way.—See No. 1062.
PLOVERS.
1066. PLOVERS may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and served in the same way as those birds.—See No. 1055.
1066. PLOVERS can be prepared like Quails or Woodcock, being trussed and served in the same manner as those birds.—See No. 1055.
TEAL.
1067. TEAL, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wild Duck, may be treated, in carving, in the same style.
1067. TEAL, being similar to Widgeon and Wild Duck, can be carved in the same way.
WIDGEON.
1068. WIDGEON may be carved in the same way as described in regard to Wild Duck, at No. 1055.
1068. WIDGEON can be carved in the same way as described for the Wild Duck at No. 1055.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXIV.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES.
"Strange there should be found
Who, self-imprison'd in their proud saloons,
Renounce the odours of the open field
For the unscented fictions of the loom;
Who, satisfied with only pencilled scenes,
Prefer to the performance of a God,
Th' inferior wonders of an artist's hand!
Lovely, indeed, the mimic works of art,
But Nature's works far lovelier."—COWPER.
"Isn't it strange that there are people
Who, locked away in their fancy rooms,
Give up the fragrances of the open field
For the scentless creations of the loom;
Who, content with just illustrated images,
Choose the lesser wonders of an artist's hand
Over the divine performance of a God!
Artistic creations are certainly beautiful,
But Nature's creations are even more beautiful."—COWPER.
1069. "THE ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS," says Hogg, in his Natural History of the Vegetable Kingdom, "may be aptly compared to the primary colours of the prismatic spectrum, which are so gradually and intimately blended, that we fail to discover where the one terminates and where the other begins. If we had to deal with yellow and blue only, the eye would easily distinguish the one from the other; but when the two are blended, and form green, we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellow begins. And so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If our powers of observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants, if there were only mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, and insects in the one, and trees, shrubs, and herbs in the other, we should then be able with facility to define the bounds of the two kingdoms; but as we descend the scale of each, and arrive at the lowest forms of animals and plants, we there meet with bodies of the simplest structure, sometimes a mere cell, whose organization, modes of development and reproduction, are so anomalous, and partake so much of the character of both, that we cannot distinguish whether they are plants or whether they are animals."
1069. "THE ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS," says Hogg in his Natural History of the Vegetable Kingdom, "can be compared to the primary colors of the spectrum, which blend so smoothly and closely that we can't tell where one ends and the other begins. If we only dealt with yellow and blue, our eyes could easily tell them apart; but when they mix to create green, it's hard to see where the blue stops and the yellow starts. The same applies to the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If we focused only on the highest forms of animals and plants—mammals, birds, reptiles, fish, and insects on one side, and trees, shrubs, and herbs on the other—we could clearly define their boundaries. However, as we explore further down the scale and encounter the simplest forms of life, sometimes just a single cell, their structure, development, and reproduction are so unusual and share characteristics of both realms that we can't determine whether they are plants or animals."
1070. WHILST IT IS DIFFICULT TO DETERMINE where the animal begins and the vegetable ends, it is as difficult to account for many of the singularities by which numbers of plants are characterized. This, however, can hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise, when we recollect that, so far as it is at present known, the vegetable kingdom is composed of upwards of 92,000 species of plants. Of this amazing number the lichens and the mosses are of the simplest and hardiest kinds. These, indeed, may be considered as the very creators of the soil: they thrive in the coldest and most sterile regions, many of them commencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on the barest rocks, and receiving no other nourishment than such as may be supplied to them by the simple elements of air and rain. When they have exhausted their period in such situations as have been assigned them, they pass into a state of decay, and become changed into a very fine mould, which, in the active spontaneity of nature, immediately begins to produce other species, which in their turn become food for various mosses, and also rot. This process of growth and decay, being, from time to time, continued, by-and-by forms a soil sufficient for the maintenance of larger plants, which also die and decay, and so increase the soil, until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak, or even the weight of a tropical forest. To create soil amongst rocks, however, must not be considered as the only end of the lichen; different kinds of it minister to the elegant arts, in the form of beautiful dyes; thus the lichen rocella is used to communicate to silk and wool, various shades of purple and crimson, which greatly enhance the value of these materials. This species is chiefly imported from the Canary Islands, and, when scarce, as an article of commerce has brought as much as £1000 per ton.
1070. WHILE IT'S HARD TO TELL where the animal kingdom starts and the plant kingdom ends, it’s just as challenging to explain many of the unique features that distinguish different plants. This shouldn't be surprising, considering that, as far as we currently know, there are over 92,000 species of plants in the plant kingdom. Among this incredible variety, lichens and mosses are some of the simplest and toughest types. They can truly be seen as the creators of soil: they thrive in the coldest and most barren areas, often starting the process of plant growth on bare rocks and getting their nutrients solely from the air and rain. Once they've exhausted their time in these places, they decay and transform into fine mold, which, through the natural processes of life, quickly starts producing new plant species that in turn provide sustenance for various mosses, leading to further decay. This cycle of growth and decay continues, eventually forming soil that's deep enough to support larger plants, which also die and decay, contributing to the soil until it can sustain an oak or even the weight of a tropical forest. However, creating soil among rocks isn't the only purpose of lichens; different types are used in the arts for their beautiful dyes. For instance, lichen rocella is used to give silk and wool various shades of purple and crimson, significantly increasing the value of these fabrics. This species is mainly imported from the Canary Islands and, when rare, has sold for as much as £1,000 per ton.
1071. IN THE VICINITY OF LICHENS, THE MUSCI, OR MOSSES, are generally to be found. Indeed, wherever vegetation can be sustained, there they are, affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables, and, by their spongy texture, retaining a moisture which preserves other plants from the withering drought of summer. But even in winter we find them enlivening, by their verdure, the cold bosom of Nature. We see them abounding in our pastures and our woods, attaching themselves to the living, and still more abundantly to the dead, trunks and branches of trees. In marshy places they also abound, and become the medium of their conversion into fruitful fields. This is exemplified by the manner in which peat-mosses are formed: on the surface of these we find them in a state of great life and vigour; immediately below we discover them, more or less, in a state of decomposition; and, still deeper, we find their stems and branches consolidated into a light brown peat. Thus are extensive tracts formed, ultimately to be brought into a state of cultivation, and rendered subservient to the wants of man.
1071. NEAR LICHENS, YOU'LL TYPICALLY FIND MUSCI, OR MOSSES. In fact, wherever plants can grow, they're there, providing shelter for the roots and seeds of more delicate plants, and their spongy texture helps retain moisture, protecting other plants from the summer's dry heat. Even in winter, they brighten up the cold landscape with their greenery. We see them thriving in our fields and forests, clinging to both live and dead tree trunks and branches. They also flourish in wet areas, turning them into productive fields. This is particularly evident in how peat-mosses are formed: on the surface, they're vibrant and full of life; just below, they start to decompose; and even deeper, their stems and branches become a light brown peat. This process leads to the formation of extensive areas that can eventually be cultivated to meet human needs.
1072. WHEN NATURE HAS FOUND A SOIL, her next care is to perfect the growth of her seeds, and then to disperse them. Whilst the seed remains confined in its capsule, it cannot answer its purpose; hence, when it is sufficiently ripe, the pericardium opens, and lets it out. What must strike every observer with surprise is, how nuts and shells, which we can hardly crack with our teeth, or even with a hammer, will divide of themselves, and make way for the little tender sprout which proceeds from the kernel. There are instances, it is said, such as in the Touch-me-not (impatiens), and the Cuckoo-flower (cardamine), in which the seed-vessels, by an elastic jerk at the moment of their explosion, cast the seeds to a distance. We are all aware, however, that many seeds—those of the most composite flowers, as of the thistle and dandelion—are endowed with, what have not been inappropriately called, wings. These consist of a beautiful silk-looking down, by which they are enabled to float in the air, and to be transported, sometimes, to considerable distances from the parent plant that produced them. The swelling of this downy tuft within the seed-vessel is the means by which the seed is enabled to overcome the resistance of its coats, and to force for itself a passage by which it escapes from its little prison-house.
1072. WHEN NATURE FINDS A SUITABLE SOIL, her next focus is to encourage the growth of her seeds and then to spread them out. As long as the seed stays enclosed in its capsule, it can't serve its purpose; therefore, when it’s ripe enough, the outer covering opens up and releases it. What surprises everyone is how nuts and shells, which we can barely crack with our teeth or even a hammer, can split open by themselves to make way for the delicate sprout that emerges from the inside. There are cases, like the Touch-me-not (impatiens) and the Cuckoo-flower (cardamine), where the seed vessels, with a quick burst when they explode, fling the seeds away. However, we all know that many seeds—like those from composite flowers, such as thistles and dandelions—have what are aptly called wings. These wings are made of a beautiful, silky down that allows them to float in the air and travel, in some cases, significant distances from the parent plant. The expansion of this fluffy tuft inside the seed vessel helps the seed push past its tough outer layer and find a way to escape from its tiny confinement.
[Illustration: BEETON'S Book of HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
EDITED BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON]
[Illustration: BEETON'S Book of HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
EDITED BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON]
[Illustration: "THE FREE, FAIR HOMES OF ENGLAND."]
[Illustration: "THE FREE, FAIR HOMES OF ENGLAND."]
1073. BIRDS, AS WELL AS QUADRUPEDS, are likewise the means of dispersing the seeds of plants, and placing them in situations where they ultimately grow. Amongst the latter is the squirrel, which is an extensive planter of oaks; nay, it may be regarded as having, in some measure, been one of the creators of the British navy. We have read of a gentleman who was walking one day in some woods belonging to the Duke of Beaufort, near Troy House, in Monmouthshire, when his attention was arrested by a squirrel, sitting very composedly upon the ground. He stopped to observe its motions, when, in a short time, the little animal suddenly quitted its position, and darted to the top of the tree beneath which it had been sitting. In an instant it returned with an acorn in its mouth, and with its paws began to burrow in the earth. After digging a small hole, it therein deposited an acorn, which it hastily covered, and then darted up the tree again. In a moment it was down with another, which it buried in the same manner; and so continued its labour, gathering and burying, as long as the gentleman had patience to watch it. This industry in the squirrel is an instinct which directs it to lay up a store of provision for the winter; and as it is probable that its memory is not sufficiently retentive to enable it to recollect all the spots in which it deposits its acorns, it no doubt makes some slips in the course of the season, and loses some of them. These few spring up, and are, in time, destined to supply the place of the parent tree. Thus may the sons of Britain, in some degree, consider themselves to be indebted to the industry and defective memory of this little animal for the production of some of those "wooden walls" which have, for centuries, been the national pride, and which have so long "braved the battle and the breeze" on the broad bosom of the great deep, in every quarter of the civilized globe. As with the squirrel, so with jays and pies, which plant among the grass and moss, horse-beans, and probably forget where they have secreted them. Mr. White, the naturalist, says, that both horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in the autumn; and he attributes the sowing of them to birds. Bees, he also observes, are much the best setters of cucumbers. If they do not happen to take kindly to the frames, the best way is to tempt them by a little honey put on the male and female bloom. When they are once induced to haunt the frames, they set all the fruit, and will hover with impatience round the lights in a morning till the glasses are opened.
1073. BIRDS, AS WELL AS FOUR-LEGGED ANIMALS, are also responsible for spreading plant seeds and planting them in spots where they eventually grow. One such animal is the squirrel, which is a significant planter of oaks; in fact, it could be seen as having played a part in the creation of the British navy. We’ve heard of a man who was walking one day in the woods owned by the Duke of Beaufort, near Troy House, in Monmouthshire, when he noticed a squirrel calmly sitting on the ground. He paused to watch its movements, and soon the little creature suddenly jumped from its spot and raced up the tree it had been under. In an instant, it came back with an acorn in its mouth and began to dig in the ground with its paws. After making a small hole, it dropped an acorn in it, quickly covered it, and then dashed back up the tree. It came down again with another acorn, which it buried in the same way, and continued this pattern as long as the man had the patience to observe. This behavior in the squirrel is an instinct that drives it to store up food for winter; and since its memory probably isn’t good enough to remember all the places where it buries its acorns, it likely forgets some, allowing a few to sprout and eventually replace the parent tree. Thus, the sons of Britain can partially credit the efforts and forgetfulness of this small creature for some of those "wooden walls" that have been a source of national pride for centuries, enduring "the battle and the breeze" across the vast oceans in every corner of the civilized world. Just like the squirrel, jays and magpies also plant horse-beans and may forget where they hide them. Mr. White, the naturalist, mentions that both horse-beans and peas sprouted in his fields during autumn, attributing their growth to birds. He also notes that bees are the best pollinators for cucumbers. If they don’t take to the frames nicely, the best approach is to lure them with a bit of honey on the male and female blooms. Once they are attracted to the frames, they will pollinate all the fruit and anxiously hover around the lights in the morning until the covers are opened.
1074. Some of the acorns planted by the squirrel of Monmouthshire may be now in a fair way to become, at the end of some centuries, venerable trees; for not the least remarkable quality of oaks is the strong principle of life with which they are endued. In Major Rooke's "Sketch of the forest of Sherwood" we find it stated that, on some timber cut down in Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were found stamped in the bodies of the trees, denoting the king's reign in which they were marked. The bark appears to have been cut off, and then the letters to have been cut in, and the next year's wood to have grown over them without adhering to where the bark had been cut out. The ciphers were found to be of James I., William and Mary, and one of King John. One of the ciphers of James was about one foot within the tree, and one foot from the centre. It was cut down in 1786. The tree must have been two feet in diameter, or two yards in circumference, when the mark was cut. A tree of this size is generally estimated at 120 years' growth; which number being subtracted from the middle year of the reign of James, would carry the year back to 1492, which would be about the period of its being planted. The tree with the cipher of William and Mary displayed its mark about nine inches within the tree, and three feet three inches from the centre. This tree was felled in 1786. The cipher of John was eighteen inches within the tree, and rather more than a foot from the centre. The middle year of the reign of that monarch was 1207. By subtracting from this 120, the number of years requisite for a tree's growth to arrive at the diameter of two feet, the date of its being planted would seem to have been 1085, or about twenty years after the Conquest.
1074. Some of the acorns planted by the squirrel from Monmouthshire might now be on their way to becoming, after a few centuries, impressive old trees; for one of the most remarkable traits of oaks is the strong vitality they possess. In Major Rooke's "Sketch of the Forest of Sherwood," it is mentioned that on some timber cut down in Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were discovered stamped into the wood of the trees, indicating the king’s reign during which they were marked. The bark seems to have been removed, and then the letters carved in, with the wood from the following year growing over them without sticking to the area where the bark was cut out. The letters were found to be from the reigns of James I, William and Mary, and one from King John. One of the letters from James was situated about one foot inside the tree and one foot from the center. It was cut down in 1786. The tree must have been two feet in diameter, or about two yards in circumference, when the mark was made. A tree of this size is generally estimated to be around 120 years old; subtracting this number from the middle year of James's reign brings us back to 1492, which would be around the time it was planted. The tree with the mark of William and Mary had its mark about nine inches inside the tree, and three feet three inches from the center. This tree was also felled in 1786. The mark from John was found eighteen inches inside the tree, and a little over a foot from the center. The middle year of his reign was 1207. By subtracting 120, the years required for a tree to grow to a diameter of two feet, the date it was planted seems to be 1085, or about twenty years after the Conquest.
[Illustration: CELLULAR DEVELOPMENT.]
[Illustration: CELLULAR DEVELOPMENT.]
1075. Considering the great endurance of these trees, we are necessarily led to inquire into the means by which they are enabled to arrive at such strength and maturity; and whether it may be considered as a humiliation we will not determine, but, with all the ingenious mechanical contrivances of man, we are still unable to define the limits of the animal and vegetable kingdoms. "Plants have been described by naturalists, who would determine the limits of the two kingdoms, as organized living bodies, without volition or locomotion, destitute of a mouth or intestinal cavity, which, when detached from their place of growth, die, and, in decay, ferment, but do not putrefy, and which, on being subjected to analysis, furnish an excess of carbon and no nitrogen. The powers of chemistry, and of the microscope, however, instead of confirming these views, tend more and more to show that a still closer affinity exists between plants and animals; for it is now ascertained that nitrogen, which was believed to be present only in animals, enters largely into the composition of plants also. When the microscope is brought to aid our powers of observation, we find that there are organized bodies belonging to the vegetable kingdom which possess very evident powers of locomotion, and which change about in so very remarkable a manner, that no other cause than that of volition can be assigned to it." Thus it would seem that, in this particular at least, some vegetables bear a very close resemblance to animal life; and when we consider the manner in which they are supplied with nourishment, and perform the functions of their existence, the resemblance would seem still closer. If, for example, we take a thin transverse slice of the stem of any plant, or a slice cut across its stem, and immerse it in a little pure water, and place it under a microscope, we will find that it consists principally of cells, more or less regular, and resembling those of a honeycomb or a network of cobweb. The size of these varies in different plants, as it does in different parts of the same plant, and they are sometimes so minute as to require a million to cover a square inch of surface. This singular structure, besides containing water and air, is the repository or storehouse of various secretions. Through it, the sap, when produced, is diffused sideways through the plant, and by it numerous changes are effected in the juices which fill its cells. The forms of the cells are various; they are also subject to various transformations. Sometimes a number of cylindrical cells are laid end to end, and, by the absorption of the transverse partitions, form a continuous tube, as in the sap-vessels of plants, or in muscular and nervous fibre; and when cells are thus woven together, they are called cellular tissue, which, in the human body, forms a fine net-like membrane, enveloping or connecting most of its structures. In pulpy fruits, the cells may be easily separated one from the other; and within the cells are smaller cells, commonly known as pulp. Among the cell-contents of some plants are beautiful crystals, called raphides. The term is derived from [Greek: rhaphis] a needle, on account of the resemblance of the crystal to a needle. They are composed of the phosphate and oxalate of lime; but there is great difference of opinion as to their use in the economy of the plant, and one of the French philosophers endeavoured to prove that crystals are the possible transition of the inorganic to organic matter. The differences, however, between the highest form of crystal and the lowest form of organic life known, viz., a simple reproductive cell, are so manifold and striking, that the attempt to make crystals the bridge over which inorganic matter passes into organic, is almost totally regarded as futile. In a layer of an onion, a fig, a section of garden rhubarb, in some species of aloe, in the bark of many trees, and in portions of the cuticle of the medicinal squill, bundles of these needle-shaped crystals are to be found. Some of them are as large as 1-40th of an inch, others are as small as the 1-1000th. They are found in all parts of the plant,—in the stem, bark, leaves, stipules, petals, fruit, roots, and even in the pollen, with some few exceptions, and they are always situated in the interior of cells. Some plants, as many of the cactus tribe, are made up almost entirely of these needle-crystals; in some instances, every cell of the cuticle contains a stellate mass of crystals; in others, the whole interior is full of them, rendering the plant so exceedingly brittle, that the least touch will occasion a fracture; so much so, that some specimens of Cactus senilis, said to be a thousand years old, which were sent a few years since to Kew, from South America, were obliged to be packed in cotton, with all the care of the most delicate jewellery, to preserve them during transport.
1075. Given the incredible durability of these trees, we naturally want to understand how they achieve such strength and maturity. Whether this is seen as a kind of humility, we will leave open to interpretation. Despite all of humanity's clever inventions, we still struggle to define the boundaries between the animal and plant kingdoms. "Naturalists have described plants as living organisms, lacking will or movements, without mouths or intestines, which die when detached from their growing location, ferment when they decay but do not rot, and, upon analysis, reveal a surplus of carbon but no nitrogen. However, the powers of chemistry and the microscope increasingly suggest a closer relationship between plants and animals; it's now known that nitrogen, once thought to exist solely in animals, is also a major component of plants. With the help of the microscope, we observe that certain organized bodies in the plant kingdom exhibit clear movement, altering their positions in ways that strongly suggest volition. This indicates that, at least in this respect, some plants closely resemble animal life; and when we consider how they absorb nutrients and carry out essential functions, the resemblance appears even more pronounced. For instance, if we take a thin cross-section of a plant stem and immerse it in clear water, placing it under a microscope, we discover it mainly consists of irregular cells similar to a honeycomb or spiderweb. The size of these cells varies across different plants and parts of the same plant, and some are so tiny that it takes a million of them to cover a square inch. This unique structure, besides containing water and air, serves as a reservoir for various secretions. Through this tissue, sap is distributed throughout the plant, facilitating numerous changes in the fluids within its cells. The shapes of these cells vary and can undergo various transformations. Sometimes, several cylindrical cells line up end to end, losing their transverse partitions to form a continuous tube, as seen in plant sap vessels or in muscle and nerve fibers; these interconnected cells are called cellular tissue, which in the human body forms a delicate net-like membrane that envelops or connects most structures. In juicy fruits, the cells can easily be separated from each other, and within those cells are even smaller cells, commonly referred to as pulp. Among the contents of some plant cells are beautiful crystals known as raphides. The name comes from the Greek word [rhaphis], meaning needle, because the crystals resemble needles. They consist of phosphate and oxalate of lime; however, there is significant debate regarding their role in the plant's life cycle, with one French philosopher even attempting to demonstrate that crystals could represent a transition from inorganic to organic matter. Nevertheless, the differences between the most complex crystals and the simplest form of known organic life, namely a basic reproductive cell, are so numerous and striking that the idea of crystals being a bridge from inorganic to organic matter is mostly seen as impractical. These needle-shaped crystals can be found in layers of onions, figs, sections of garden rhubarb, some aloe species, the bark of many trees, and parts of the medicinal squill's cuticle. Some are as large as 1/40th of an inch, while others are as small as 1/1000th. They can be found throughout the plant — in the stem, bark, leaves, stipules, petals, fruit, roots, and even pollen, with few exceptions, always located within the cells. Some plants, like many from the cactus family, are almost entirely composed of these needle-like crystals; sometimes, every cell in the cuticle holds a star-shaped mass of crystals, while in other cases, the interior is filled with them, making the plant so fragile that the slightest touch can cause it to break. This is true for specimens of Cactus senilis, claimed to be a thousand years old, which were recently sent to Kew from South America and had to be packed in cotton with the utmost care, just like the most delicate jewelry, to ensure their safe transport."
[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE FROM UNDER-SIDE OF LEAF OF DEUTZIA
SCABRA.]
[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE FROM UNDER-SIDE OF LEAF OF DEUTZIA
SCABRA.]
[Illustration: SILICEOUS CUTICLE OF GRASS.]
[Illustration: Silica Cuticle of Grass.]
1076. Besides the cellular tissue, there is what is called a vascular system, which consists of another set of small vessels. If, for example, we, early in the spring, cut a branch transversely, we will perceive the sap oozing out from numerous points over the whole of the divided surface, except on that part occupied by the pith and the bark; and if a twig, on which the leaves are already unfolded, be cut from the tree, and placed with its cut end in a watery solution of Brazil-wood, the colouring matter will be found to ascend into the leaves and to the top of the twig. In both these cases, a close examination with a powerful microscope, will discover the sap perspiring from the divided portion of the stem, and the colouring matter rising through real tubes to the top of the twig: these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant. If, however, we examine a transverse section of the vine, or of any other tree, at a later period of the season, we find that the wood is apparently dry, whilst the bark, particularly that part next the wood, is swelled with fluid. This is contained in vessels of a different kind from those in which the sap rises. They are found in the bark only in trees, and may be called returning vessels, from their carrying the sap downwards after its preparation in the leaf. It is believed that the passage of the sap in plants is conducted in a manner precisely similar to that of the blood in man, from the regular contraction and expansion of the vessels; but, on account of their extreme minuteness, it is almost an impossibility to be certain upon this point. Numerous observations made with the microscope show that their diameter seldom exceeds a 290th part of a line, or a 3,000th part of an inch. Leuwenhoeck reckoned 20,000 vessels in a morsel of oak about one nineteenth of an inch square.
1076. In addition to the cellular tissue, there’s what's known as a vascular system, which consists of another set of small vessels. For instance, if we cut a branch horizontally in early spring, we will see sap oozing out from many points across the entire cut surface, except for the area occupied by the pith and bark. If we take a twig with unfolded leaves, cut it from the tree, and place the cut end in a watery solution of Brazil wood, the dye will rise into the leaves and the top of the twig. In both cases, a close examination with a strong microscope will show the sap perspirating from the cut part of the stem and the dye moving through actual tubes to the top of the twig: these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant. However, if we look at a cross-section of a vine or any other tree later in the season, we notice that the wood appears dry while the bark, especially the part next to the wood, is swollen with fluid. This fluid is found in vessels different from those that carry the sap upward, located only in the bark of trees. They can be called returning vessels since they transport the sap downward after it’s been processed in the leaves. It’s believed that the movement of sap in plants occurs in a way similar to blood circulation in humans, through the regular contraction and expansion of the vessels; however, due to their extremely small size, it is nearly impossible to be certain about this. Numerous observations made with a microscope show that their diameter rarely exceeds a 290th of a line or a 3,000th of an inch. Leuwenhoeck estimated 20,000 vessels in a piece of oak about one nineteenth of an inch square.
1077. In the vascular system of a plant, we at once see the great analogy which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system; but neither it, nor the cellular tissue combined, is all that is required to perfect the production of a vegetable. There is, besides, a tracheal system, which is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes, designed for the purpose of conveying air both to and from the plant. There are also fibres, which consist of collections of these cells and vessels closely united together. These form the root and the stem. If we attempt to cut them transversely, we meet with difficulty, because we have to force our way across the tubes, and break them; but if we slit the wood lengthwise, the vessels are separated without breaking. The layers of wood, which appear in the stem or branch of a tree cut transversely, consist of different zones of fibres, each the produce of one year's growth, and separated by a coat of cellular tissue, without which they could not be well distinguished. Besides all these, there is the cuticle, which extends over every part of the plant, and covers the bark with three distinct coats. The liber, or inner bark, is said to be formed of hollow tubes, which convey the sap downwards to increase the solid diameter of the tree.
1077. In a plant's vascular system, we can immediately see the strong similarity to the veins and arteries in the human body; however, neither it nor the combined cellular tissue is enough to fully support the growth of a plant. Additionally, there is a tracheal system made up of very tiny elastic spiral tubes, designed to transport air to and from the plant. There are also fibers, which consist of clusters of these cells and vessels tightly connected. These make up the root and the stem. If we try to cut them crosswise, we encounter challenges because we have to cut through the tubes and break them; however, if we slice the wood lengthwise, the vessels separate without breaking. The wood layers seen in the stem or branch of a tree when cut across consist of different zones of fibers, each produced in one year of growth, and are separated by a layer of cellular tissue, without which they would be hard to distinguish. In addition to all this, there is the cuticle, which covers every part of the plant, including the bark with three distinct layers. The liber, or inner bark, is said to be made up of hollow tubes that transport sap downward to increase the tree's solid diameter.
1078. THE ROOT AND THE STEM NOW DEMAND A SLIGHT NOTICE. The former is designed, not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil, but also to fulfil the functions of a channel for the conveyance of nourishment: it is therefore furnished with pores, or spongioles, as they are called, from their resemblance to a sponge, to suck up whatever comes within its reach. It is found in a variety of forms, and hence its adaptation to a great diversity of soils and circumstances. We have heard of a willow-tree being dug up and its head planted where its roots were, and these suffered to spread out in the air like naked branches. In course of time, the roots became branches, and the branches roots, or rather, roots rose from the branches beneath the ground, and branches shot from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others two, and others, like the shrubs and trees which they produce, have an indefinite period of existence; but they all consist of a collection of fibres, composed of vascular and cellular tissue, without tracheae, or breathing-vessels. The stem is the grand distributor of the nourishment taken up by the roots, to the several parts of the plant. The seat of its vitality is said to be in the point or spot called the neck, which separates the stem from the root. If the root of a young plant be cut off, it will shoot out afresh; if even the stem be taken away, it will be renewed; but if this part be injured, the plant will assuredly die.
1078. THE ROOT AND THE STEM NOW NEED A BIT OF ATTENTION. The root is meant not only to anchor the plant in the soil but also to act as a channel for transporting nutrients: it's equipped with pores, or spongioles, which help absorb whatever is nearby. It comes in various shapes, making it suitable for a wide range of soils and conditions. We've heard of a willow tree being uprooted and its top re-planted where its roots were, allowing them to spread out in the air like bare branches. Over time, the roots turned into branches, and the branches became roots—roots grew from the branches underground, and branches sprouted from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others two, and some, like the shrubs and trees they produce, can live indefinitely; but they all consist of a collection of fibers made up of vascular and cellular tissue, without tracheae, or breathing vessels. The stem is the main distributor of the nutrients absorbed by the roots to the different parts of the plant. The main point of vitality is thought to be at the neck, the area that separates the stem from the root. If the root of a young plant is cut off, it will regrow; if the stem is removed, it will also regenerate; but if this part is damaged, the plant will definitely die.
1079. IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PLAN OF THIS WORK, special notices of culinary vegetables will accompany the various recipes in which they are spoken of; but here we cannot resist the opportunity of declaring it as our conviction, that he or she who introduces a useful or an ornamental plant into our island, ought justly to be considered, to a large extent, a benefactor to the country. No one can calculate the benefits which may spring from this very vegetable, after its qualities have become thoroughly known. If viewed in no other light, it is pleasing to consider it as bestowing upon us a share of the blessings of other climates, and enabling us to participate in the luxury which a more genial sun has produced.
1079. AS PART OF THIS WORK, special notes about culinary vegetables will be included with the various recipes where they are mentioned; however, we cannot miss the chance to express our belief that anyone who brings a useful or ornamental plant to our island should be seen as a significant benefactor to the country. No one can truly measure the benefits that may come from this vegetable once its qualities are fully understood. Even if looked at in no other way, it's pleasant to think of it as giving us a taste of the blessings from other climates and allowing us to enjoy the richness that comes from a sunnier environment.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXV.
BOILED ARTICHOKES.
1080. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling; artichokes.
1080. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaped tablespoon of salt and a piece of baking soda the size of a shilling; artichokes.
[Illustration: ARTICHOKES.]
[Illustration: ARTICHOKES.]
Mode.—Wash the artichokes well in several waters; see that no insects remain about them, and trim away the leaves at the bottom. Cut off the stems and put them into boiling water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender; ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the leaves can be easily removed. Take them out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve in a napkin, or with a little white sauce poured over. A tureen of melted butter should accompany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, is considered better for being gathered two or three days; but they must be well soaked and washed previous to dressing.
Mode.—Wash the artichokes thoroughly in several applications of water; make sure no insects are left on them, and trim the leaves at the bottom. Cut off the stems and place them into boiling water with added salt and soda as instructed above. Keep the pot uncovered and let them boil quickly until they're tender; you can check if they're done by sticking a fork in them or seeing if the leaves come off easily. Remove them, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve them in a napkin or with a little white sauce on top. A bowl of melted butter should be served alongside. This vegetable, unlike others, is said to taste better when picked two or three days prior; however, they must be well soaked and washed before cooking.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes after the water starts boiling.
Sufficient,—a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons.
Sufficient—a serving of 5 or 6 for 4 people.
Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.
In season from July to early September.
[Illustration: CARDOON ARTICHOKE.]
[Illustration: Cardoon Artichoke.]
THE COMPOSITAE, OR COMPOSITE FLOWERS.—This family is so extensive, as to contain nearly a twelfth part of the whole of the vegetable kingdom. It embraces about 9,000 species, distributed over almost every country; and new discoveries are constantly being made and added to the number. Towards the poles their numbers diminish, and slightly, also, towards the equator; but they abound in the tropical and sub-tropical islands, and in the tracts of continent not far from the sea-shore. Among esculent vegetables, the Lettuce, Salsify, Scorzonera, Cardoon, and Artichoke belong to the family.
THE COMPOSITAE, OR COMPOSITE FLOWERS.—This family is so extensive that it makes up nearly one-twelfth of the entire plant kingdom. It includes about 9,000 species found in almost every country, and new discoveries are constantly being made to increase this number. Their abundance decreases towards the poles and slightly towards the equator as well, but they thrive in tropical and subtropical islands, as well as in coastal areas of continents. Among edible vegetables, the Lettuce, Salsify, Scorzonera, Cardoon, and Artichoke are part of this family.
FRIED ARTICHOKES.
(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
1081. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for the batter,—1/4 lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.
1081. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 artichokes, salt, and water: for the batter,—1/4 lb. of flour, a pinch of salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.
Mode.—Trim and boil the artichokes by recipe No. 1080, and rub them over with lemon-juice, to keep them white. When they are quite tender, take them up, remove the chokes, and divide the bottoms; dip each piece into batter, fry them in hot lard or dripping, and garnish the dish with crisped parsley. Serve with plain melted butter.
Mode.—Trim and boil the artichokes according to recipe No. 1080, and brush them with lemon juice to keep them from browning. Once they are tender, take them out, remove the chokes, and cut the bottoms into pieces. Dip each piece into batter, fry them in hot lard or fat, and garnish the dish with crispy parsley. Serve with melted butter on the side.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.
Sufficient,—5 or 6 for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient—5 or 6 for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.
In season from July to early September.
A FRENCH MODE OF COOKING ARTICHOKES.
1082. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 artichokes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2 oz. of butter.
1082. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 artichokes; for every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 1 bunch of savory herbs, and 2 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Cut the ends of the leaves, as also the stems; put the artichokes into boiling water, with the above proportion of salt, pepper, herbs, and butter; let them boil quickly until tender, keeping the lid of the saucepan off, and when the leaves come out easily, they are cooked enough. To keep them a beautiful green, put a large piece of cinder into a muslin bag, and let it boil with them. Serve with plain melted butter.
Mode.—Trim the ends of the leaves and the stems; place the artichokes in boiling water with the mentioned amounts of salt, pepper, herbs, and butter. Boil them quickly until they’re tender, keeping the lid off the saucepan. They are done when the leaves come out easily. To keep them a vibrant green, add a large piece of cinder in a muslin bag while they boil. Serve with plain melted butter.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes.
Duration.—20 to 25 minutes.
Sufficient,—5 or 6 sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient,—5 or 6 enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.
In season from July to early September.
ARTICHOKES A L'ITALIENNE.
1083. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 6 artichokes, salt and butter, about 1/2 pint of good gravy.
1083. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 6 artichokes, salt and butter, about 1/2 pint of quality gravy.
Mode.—Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and boil them until tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter. When done, drain them well, and lay them all round the dish, with the leaves outside. Have ready some good gravy, highly flavoured with mushrooms; reduce it until quite thick, and pour it round the artichokes, and serve.
Mode.—Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and boil them until tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter. When they're done, drain them well and arrange them around the dish with the leaves facing out. Prepare some rich gravy, heavily flavored with mushrooms; reduce it until it's thick, and pour it around the artichokes, then serve.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes to boil the artichokes.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes to cook the artichokes.
Sufficient for one side-dish.
Enough for one side dish.
Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.
In season from July to the beginning of September.
CONSTITUENT PROPERTIES OF THE ARTICHOKE.—According to the analysis of Braconnet, the constituent elements of an artichoke are,—starch 30, albumen 10, uncrystallizable sugar 148, gum 12, fixed oil 1, woody fibre 12, inorganic matter 27, and water 770.
CONSTITUENT PROPERTIES OF THE ARTICHOKE.—According to Braconnet's analysis, the components of an artichoke are: starch 30, protein 10, uncrystallizable sugar 148, gum 12, fixed oil 1, woody fiber 12, inorganic matter 27, and water 770.
BOILED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
1084. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; artichokes.
1084. INGREDIENTS.—For each 1 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt; artichokes.
Mode.—Wash, peel, and shape the artichokes in a round or oval form, and put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, salted in the above proportion. Let them boil gently until tender; take them up, drain them, and serve them in a napkin, or plain, whichever mode is preferred; send to table with them a tureen of melted butter or cream sauce, a little of which may be poured over the artichokes when they are not served in a napkin.
Method.—Wash, peel, and shape the artichokes into a round or oval form, and place them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them, seasoned with salt as mentioned above. Let them simmer gently until they're tender; then remove them, drain, and serve either in a napkin or plain, depending on your preference. Alongside, offer a bowl of melted butter or cream sauce, which can be drizzled over the artichokes if they're not served in a napkin.
[Illustration: JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.]
[Illustration: JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.]
Time.—About 20 minutes after the water boils.
Time.—Around 20 minutes after the water starts boiling.
Average cost, 2d. per lb.
Average cost, 2d. per lb.
Sufficient,—10 for a dish for 6 persons.
Sufficient,—10 for a meal for 6 people.
Seasonable from September to June.
Available from September to June.
USES OF THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.—This being a tuberous-rooted plant, with leafy stems from four to six feet high, it is alleged that its tops will afford as much fodder per acre as a crop of oats, or more, and its roots half as many tubers as an ordinary crop of potatoes. The tubers, being abundant in the market-gardens, are to be had at little more than the price of potatoes. The fibres of the stems may be separated by maceration, and manufactured into cordage or cloth; and this is said to be done in some parts of the north and west of France, as about Hagenau, where this plant, on the poor sandy soils, is an object of field culture.
USES OF THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.—This is a plant with tuberous roots and leafy stems that grow between four and six feet tall. It is claimed that the tops can produce as much fodder per acre as an oat crop, or even more, and its roots can yield half as many tubers as a typical potato crop. The tubers are readily available in market gardens and are sold for just above the price of potatoes. The fibers from the stems can be separated through soaking and turned into rope or cloth; this process is reportedly done in various parts of northern and western France, such as around Hagenau, where this plant is cultivated in poor sandy soils.
MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
1085. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1 gallon of water allow 1 oz. of salt; 15 or 16 artichokes, 1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste.
1085. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1 gallon of water, use 1 oz. of salt; 15 or 16 artichokes, 1 oz. of butter, and pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender; drain and press the water from them, and beat them up with a fork. When thoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan with the butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt; keep stirring over the fire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve.
Method.—Boil the artichokes just like in the previous recipe until they're tender; drain them and press out the water, then mash them with a fork. Once they're completely mashed and smooth, transfer them to a saucepan with the butter and season with white pepper and salt; keep stirring over the heat until the artichokes are hot, and serve.
Time.—About 20 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per lb.
Time.—Approximately 20 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Good for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from September to June.
Seasonal from September to June.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH WHITE SAUCE.
(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)
(Entremets, or to be served with the second course as a side dish.)
1086. INGREDIENTS.—12 to 15 artichokes, 12 to 15 Brussels sprouts, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 538.
1086. INGREDIENTS.—12 to 15 artichokes, 12 to 15 Brussels sprouts, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 538.
Mode.—Peel and cut the artichokes in the shape of a pear; cut a piece off the bottom of each, that they may stand upright in the dish, and boil them in salt and water until tender. Have ready 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by recipe No. 538; dish the artichokes, pour over them the sauce, and place between each a fine Brussels sprout: these should be boiled separately, and not with the artichokes.
Mode.—Peel and cut the artichokes into a pear shape; trim the bottom of each so they can stand upright in the dish, and boil them in salted water until they're tender. Prepare 1/2 pint of white sauce using recipe No. 538; plate the artichokes, pour the sauce over them, and place a fine Brussels sprout between each one: these should be boiled separately, not with the artichokes.
Time.—About 20 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per lb.
Time: About 20 minutes. Average cost: 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from September to June.
Seasonal from September to June.
THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.—This plant is well known, being, for its tubers, cultivated not only as a garden vegetable, but also as an agricultural crop. By many it is much esteemed as an esculent, when cooked in various ways; and the domesticated animals eat both the fresh foliage, and the tubers with great relish. By some, they are not only considered nourishing, but even fattening.
THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.—This plant is well known for its tubers, which are grown not only as a garden vegetable but also as a farm crop. Many people highly value it as food when cooked in different ways; domesticated animals also enjoy both the fresh leaves and the tubers. Some consider them not just nourishing, but even fattening.
BOILED ASPARAGUS.
1087. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; asparagus.
1087. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt; asparagus.
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. ASPARAGUS TONGS.]
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS ON TOAST. ASPARAGUS TONGS.]
Mode.—Asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it is cut, although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks into cold water; yet, to be good, like every other vegetable, it cannot be cooked too fresh. Scrape the white part of the stems, beginning from the head, and throw them into cold water; then tie them into bundles of about 20 each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the stalks evenly, that they may all be the same length; put them into boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; keep them boiling quickly until tender, with the saucepan uncovered. When the asparagus is done, dish it upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it was cooked in, and leave the white ends outwards each war, with the points meeting in the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter.
Mode.—Asparagus should be prepared as soon as it’s cut, although you can keep it for a day or two by placing the stalks in cold water; however, like any other vegetable, it’s best when cooked fresh. Scrape the white parts of the stems, starting from the head, and place them in cold water; then tie them into bundles of about 20, ensuring the heads are all facing the same direction, and cut the stalks evenly so they are all the same length. Put them into boiling water with salt as mentioned above; keep boiling them quickly until tender, with the saucepan uncovered. Once the asparagus is done, serve it on toast that has been dipped in the cooking water, with the white ends outward and the tips meeting in the center. Serve with a bowl of melted butter.
Time.—15 to 18 minutes after the water boils.
Time.—15 to 18 minutes after the water starts boiling.
Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d. the 100 heads.
Average cost, in full season, £0.12.5 per 100 heads.
Sufficient.—Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—Plan for about 50 heads for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable.—May be had, forced, from January but cheapest in May, June, and July.
Seasonable.—Available, grown indoors, starting in January, but least expensive in May, June, and July.
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]
[Illustration: ASPARAGUS.]
ASPARAGUS.—This plant belongs to the variously-featured family of the order Liliaceae, which, in the temperate regions of both hemispheres, are most abundant, and, between the tropics, gigantic in size and arborescent in form. Asparagus is a native of Great Britain, and is found on various parts of the seacoast, and in the fens of Lincolnshire. At Kynarve Cove, in Cornwall, there is an island called "Asparagus Island," from the abundance in which it is there found. The uses to which the young shoots are applied, and the manure in which they are cultivated in order to bring them to the highest state of excellence, have been a study with many kitchen-gardeners.
ASPARAGUS.—This plant is part of the diverse family within the order Liliaceae, which is prevalent in temperate regions of both hemispheres and grows to gigantic sizes and tree-like forms in tropical areas. Asparagus is native to Great Britain, where it can be found along various coastlines and in the fens of Lincolnshire. In Cornwall, there's an island called "Asparagus Island" due to the large quantity found there. Many kitchen gardeners have focused on the young shoots' uses and the type of manure used to cultivate them for optimal quality.
ASPARAGUS PEAS.
(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course.)
(Entremets, or served as a side dish with the second course.)
1088. INGREDIENTS.—100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt.
1088. INGREDIENTS.—100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons of cream, salt.
Mode.—Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equal size, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw them into cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water until three-parts done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry the moisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley, and onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in a little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boiled a short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken with the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of salt, and, when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable.
Mode.—Carefully peel the asparagus, cut it into evenly sized pieces, avoiding any that are tough or hard, and place them in cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salted water until it's about three-quarters done; remove it, drain it, and let it dry on a cloth. Put it in a saucepan with butter, parsley, and onions, and cook over a brisk heat for 10 minutes. Sprinkle in a little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. After boiling for a short time and reducing, remove the parsley and onions, and thicken the mixture with the yolks of 2 beaten eggs mixed with cream; add a pinch of salt, and when the whole mixture is just about to simmer, serve. Make sure the sauce is thick enough to stick to the vegetables.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. a pint.
Time.—Total time, 30 minutes. Average cost, £0.075 a pint.
Seasonable in May, June, and July.
In season in May, June, and July.
MEDICINAL USES OF ASPARAGUS.—This plant not only acts as a wholesome and nutritious vegetable, but also as a diuretic, aperient, and deobstruent. The chemical analysis of its juice discovers its composition to be a peculiar crystallizable principle, called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and some salts. Thours says, the cellular tissue contains a substance similar to sage. The berries are capable of undergoing vinous fermentation, and affording alcohol by distillation. In their unripe state they possess the same properties as the roots, and probably in a much higher degree.
MEDICINAL USES OF ASPARAGUS.—This plant not only serves as a healthy and nutritious vegetable, but it also acts as a diuretic, laxative, and a substance that helps clear obstructions. Chemical analysis of its juice reveals a unique crystallizable component called asparagin, along with albumen, mannite, malic acid, and various salts. Thours mentions that the cellular tissue has a substance similar to sage. The berries can ferment into wine and produce alcohol through distillation. When unripe, they share the same properties as the roots, and likely in a much stronger concentration.
ASPARAGUS PUDDING.
(A delicious Dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
(A delicious dish, to be served with the second course.)
1089. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of very finely minced ham, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, milk.
1089. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1 tablespoon of very finely minced ham, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, milk.
Mode.—Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the size of peas; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a pint buttered mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and let it boil for 2 hours; turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish, and pour plain melted butter round, but not over, the pudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same manner, substituting peas for the asparagus.
Mode.—Chop the tender green parts of asparagus into pieces about the size of peas; place them in a bowl with the well-beaten eggs, flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly, and add enough milk to achieve a thick batter consistency; pour it into a pint buttered mold, secure it tightly with a floured cloth, and set it in boiling water, allowing it to boil for 2 hours; then turn it out of the mold onto a warm dish, and pour plain melted butter around, but not on top of, the pudding. You can make green pea pudding in the same way, just replacing asparagus with peas.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per pint.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, £0.08 per pint.
Seasonable in May, June, and July.
Seasonal in May, June, and July.
BOILED FRENCH BEANS.
1090. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.
1090. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, add 1 heaping tablespoon of salt and a tiny piece of baking soda.
[Illustration: Scarlet Runner.]
[Illustration: Scarlet Runner Bean.]
Mode.—This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when allowed to grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off the heads and tails, and a thin strip on each side of the beans, to remove the strings. Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, according to size, cutting them lengthways in a slanting direction, and, as they are cut, put them into cold water, with a small quantity of salt dissolved in it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion; put in the beans, keep them boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, and be careful that they do not get smoked. When tender, which may be ascertained by their sinking to the bottom of the saucepan, take them up, throw them into a colander; and when drained, dish and serve with plain melted butter. When very young, beans are sometimes served whole: when they are thus dressed, their colour and flavour are much better preserved; but the more general way of dressing them is to cut them into thin strips.
Mode.—This vegetable should always be eaten when it's young, as letting it grow too long makes it taste stringy and tough when cooked. Cut off the ends and a thin strip on each side of the beans to remove the strings. Then, chop each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, depending on size, cutting them lengthwise at an angle. As you cut them, put them into cold water with a little salt dissolved in it. Have a saucepan of boiling water ready, with salt and baking soda mixed in as mentioned above; add the beans, keeping them boiling quickly with the lid off, and make sure they don't get burnt. When they are tender, which you can tell by them sinking to the bottom of the saucepan, take them out and drain them in a colander. Once drained, serve them with plain melted butter. When they are very young, beans are sometimes served whole; when cooked this way, their color and flavor are much better retained, but the more common way to prepare them is to cut them into thin strips.
Time.—Very young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—Very young beans: 10 to 12 minutes; medium-sized beans: 15 to 20 minutes, after the water starts boiling.
Average cost, in full season, 1s. 4d. a peck; but, when forced, very expensive.
Average cost, in full season, 6p a peck; but, when forced, very expensive.
Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 persons.
Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 peck for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of September; but may be had, forced, from February to the beginning of June.
In season from mid-July to the end of September; but can be available, grown in a controlled environment, from February to the start of June.
FRENCH MODE OF COOKING FRENCH BEANS.
1091. INGREDIENTS.—A quart of French beans, 3 oz. of fresh butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
1091. INGREDIENTS.—One quart of French beans, 3 ounces of fresh butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of half a lemon.
Mode.—Cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe, and when tender, put them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire, to dry away the moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot, add the butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving the stewpan, without using a spoon, as that would break the beans; and when the butter is melted, and all is thoroughly hot, serve. If the butter should not mix well, add a tablespoonful of gravy, and serve very quickly.
Mode.—Cut and boil the beans according to the previous recipe, and when they are tender, place them in a saucepan and shake them over the heat to remove the moisture. Once they are completely dry and hot, add the butter, pepper, salt, and lemon juice; continue to move the saucepan around without using a spoon, as that would damage the beans. When the butter has melted and everything is evenly heated, serve it up. If the butter doesn't mix well, add a tablespoon of gravy, and serve immediately.
Time.—About 1/4 hour to boil the beans; 10 minutes to shake them over the fire.
Time.—About 15 minutes to boil the beans; 10 minutes to shake them over the fire.
Average cost, in full season, about 1s. 4d. a peck.
Average cost, during the full season, about £0.07 a peck.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of September.
In season from mid-July to the end of September.
BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS.
1092. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; beans.
1092. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt; beans.
[Illustration: BROAD BEAN.]
[Illustration: Broad Bean.]
Mode.—This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to be nice, should be young and freshly gathered. After shelling the beans, put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and let them boil rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; dish, and serve with them separately a tureen of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon should always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cooked separately. It is usually served with the beans laid round, and the parsley and butter in a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish to a ham, and when used for this purpose, if very old, should have their skins removed.
Mode.—This is a favorite vegetable for many people, but to taste best, they should be young and freshly picked. After shelling the beans, put them in boiling water with salt as mentioned above, and let them cook quickly until tender. Drain them well in a colander; plate them, and serve with a separate bowl of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon should always accompany this vegetable, but the beans should be cooked separately. It's usually served with the beans arranged around the plate, and the parsley and butter in a bowl. Beans also make a great garnish for ham, and if they're very old, their skins should be removed before using.
Time.—Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size, 20 to 25 minutes, or longer.
Time.—Very young beans, 15 minutes; when they're medium size, 20 to 25 minutes, or longer.
Average cost, unshelled, 6d. per peck.
Average cost, unshelled, 6d. per peck.
Sufficient.—Allow one peck for 6 or 7 persons.
Sufficient.—Plan for one peck for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable in July and August.
In season in July and August.
NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEAN.—The produce of beans in meal is, like that of peas, more in proportion to the grain than in any of the cereal grasses. A bushel of beans is supposed to yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats; and a bushel of peas eighteen pounds more, or, according to some, twenty pounds. A thousand parts of bean flour were found by Sir II. Davy to yield 570 parts of nutritive matter, of which 426 were mucilage or starch, 103 gluten, and 41 extract, or matter rendered insoluble during the process.
NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE BEAN.—The yield of beans in meal is, similar to that of peas, more in proportion to the grain than in any of the cereal grains. One bushel of beans is believed to produce fourteen pounds more flour than a bushel of oats; and one bushel of peas, eighteen pounds more, or, according to some estimates, twenty pounds. A study by Sir H. Davy found that a thousand parts of bean flour yielded 570 parts of nutrients, consisting of 426 parts of mucilage or starch, 103 parts of gluten, and 41 parts of extract, or material that became insoluble during processing.
BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE.
1093. INGREDIENTS.—2 pints of broad beans, 1/2 pint of stock or broth, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump of sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1/4 pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste.
1093. INGREDIENTS.—2 pints of broad beans, 1/2 pint of stock or broth, a small bunch of savory herbs, including parsley, a small lump of sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1/4 pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Procure some young and freshly-gathered beans, and shell sufficient to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, until nearly done; then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with the stock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the beans until perfectly tender, and the liquor has dried away a little; then beat up the yolk of an egg with the cream, add this to the beans, let the whole get thoroughly hot, and when on the point of simmering, serve. Should the beans be very large, the skin should be removed previously to boiling them.
Mode.—Get some young, freshly-picked beans and shell enough to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the previous recipe, until almost done; then drain them and place them in a saucepan with the stock, finely chopped herbs, and sugar. Cook the beans until they are completely tender and the liquid has reduced a bit; then beat the yolk of an egg with the cream, add this to the beans, let everything heat through, and just before it starts to simmer, serve. If the beans are very large, remove the skin before boiling them.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in the stock.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to simmer them in the broth.
Average cost, unshelled, 6d. per peck.
Average cost, unshelled, 6d. per peck.
Seasonable in July and August.
Seasonable in July and August.
ORIGIN AND VARIETIES OF THE BEAN.—This valuable plant is said to be a native of Egypt, but, like other plants which have been domesticated, its origin is uncertain. It has been cultivated in Europe and Asia from time immemorial, and has been long known in Britain. Its varieties may be included under two general heads,—the white, or garden beans, and the grey, or field beans, of the former, sown in the fields, the mazagan and long-pod are almost the only sorts; of the latter, those known as the horse-bean, the small or ticks, and the prolific of Heligoland, are the principal sorts. New varieties are procured in the same manner as in other plants.
ORIGIN AND VARIETIES OF THE BEAN.—This valuable plant is thought to be native to Egypt, but like many domesticated plants, its exact origin is uncertain. It has been grown in Europe and Asia for centuries and has been well-known in Britain for a long time. Its varieties can be grouped into two main categories: the white, or garden beans, and the grey, or field beans. Among garden beans, the mazagan and long-pod are nearly the only types planted in fields; for field beans, the main types include the horse-bean, small or ticks, and the prolific variety from Heligoland. New varieties are obtained in the same way as other plants.
BOILED BEETROOT.
1094. INGREDIENTS,—Beetroot; boiling water.
1094. INGREDIENTS—Beetroot; hot water.
Mode.—When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes a very excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into an economical and quickly-made pickle. (See No. 369.) Beetroot is more frequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is preferred, melted butter should be sent to table with it. It may also be stewed with button onions, or boiled and served with roasted onions. Wash the beets thoroughly; but do not prick or break the skin before they are cooked, or they would lose their beautiful colour in boiling. Put them into boiling water, and let them boil until tender, keeping them well covered. If to be served hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetroot into thick slices, and send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle, &c., let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices.
Mode.—When large, young, and juicy, this vegetable is a great addition to winter salads and can easily be turned into an economical and quick pickle. (See No. 369.) Beetroot is usually served cold rather than hot: if you prefer it hot, serve it with melted butter. It can also be stewed with button onions or boiled and served with roasted onions. Make sure to wash the beets thoroughly; however, don’t prick or break the skin before cooking, as they would lose their beautiful color in boiling. Place them in boiling water and let them cook until tender, keeping them well covered. If serving hot, remove the skin quickly, cut the beetroot into thick slices, and serve with melted butter. For salads, pickles, etc., let the root cool, then peel, and cut it into slices.
Time.—Small beetroot, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Time.—Small beets, 1-1/2 to 2 hours; large, 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Average cost, in full season, 2d. each.
Average cost, in full season, 2d. each.
Seasonable.—May be had at any time.
In season.—Available anytime.
[Illustration: BEETROOT.]
[Illustration: BEETROOT.]
BEETROOT.—The geographical distribution of the order Saltworts (Salxolaceae), to which beetroot belongs, is most common in extra-tropical and temperate regions, where they are common weeds, frequenting waste places, among rubbish, and on marshes by the seashore. In the tropics they are rare. They are characterized by the large quantities of mucilage, sugar, starch, and alkaline salts which are found in them. Many of them are used as potherbs, and some are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal properties. The root of garden or red beet is exceedingly wholesome and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has recommended that a good brown bread may be made by rasping down this root with an equal quantity of flour. He says that the average quality of flour contains about 12 per cent. of azotized principles adapted for the formation of flesh, and the average quality of beet contains about 2 per cent. of the same materials.
BEETROOT.—The geographical distribution of the order Saltworts (Salxolaceae), which includes beetroot, is most common in non-tropical and temperate areas where they are often found as weeds, growing in waste spaces, among trash, and on marshes by the coast. They are rare in tropical regions. They are known for the large amounts of mucilage, sugar, starch, and alkaline salts they contain. Many of them are used as greens, and some have medicinal properties that can induce vomiting or expel worms. The root of garden or red beet is very healthy and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has suggested that a good brown bread can be made by grating this root and mixing it with the same amount of flour. He notes that the average quality of flour contains about 12 percent of nitrogenous compounds that help build muscle, while the average quality of beet contains about 2 percent of these substances.
BOILED BROCOLI.
1095. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; brocoli.
1095. INGREDIENTS.—For each 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt; broccoli.
[Illustration: BOILED BROCOLI.]
[Illustration: Steamed Broccoli.]
Mode.—Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut off level with the flower; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and put the brocoli into cold salt and water, with the heads downwards. When they have remained in this for about 3/4 hour, and they are perfectly free from insects, put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk fire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the moment they are done; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, a little of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left in the water after it is done, it will break, its colour will be spoiled, and its crispness gone.
Mode.—Remove the dead outer leaves, and cut the inner ones level with the flower; trim the stalk close to the bottom and place the broccoli in cold salted water, with the heads facing down. After about 45 minutes, when they are perfectly free of insects, transfer them to a saucepan of boiling water, salted as mentioned above, and keep boiling quickly over a strong heat, with the saucepan uncovered. Remove them with a slotted spoon the moment they are done; drain well and serve with a tureen of melted butter, with a little poured over the broccoli. If left in the water after cooking, it will break, its color will fade, and it will lose its crispness.
Time.—Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes.
Time.—Small broccoli, 10 to 15 minutes; large one, 20 to 25 minutes.
Average cost, 2d. each.
Average cost, 2d. each.
Sufficient,—2 for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient,—2 for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from October to March; plentiful in February and March.
In season from October to March; abundant in February and March.
[Illustration: BROCOLI.]
[Illustration: BROCCOLI.]
THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE.—This variety presents a singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting from it all round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of leaves issuing from it. Although not generally grown as a garden vegetable, if used when young and tender, it is wholesome, nutritious, and very palatable.
THE KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP-CABBAGE.—This variety has a unique growth pattern, where the stem bulges out like a large turnip above the ground, surrounded by leaves all around, and topped with a cluster of leaves growing from it. While it isn't commonly cultivated as a garden vegetable, when harvested young and tender, it is healthy, nutritious, and quite tasty.
BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
1096. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a very small piece of soda.
1096. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt and a very small piece of baking soda.
Mode.—Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick off any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides; put them into a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion; keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire until tender; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, or with a maître d'hôtel sauce poured over them. Another mode of serving is, when they are dished, to stir in about 1-1/2 oz. of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table very quickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where the cook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be arranged on the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has a very pretty appearance.
Method.—Remove any insects from the sprouts, wash them thoroughly, and take off any dead or discolored leaves from the outside; place them in a saucepan of boiling water, adding salt and baking soda in the specified amounts; keep the pan uncovered and let them boil quickly over a strong heat until tender; drain, plate, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, or with a maître d'hôtel sauce poured over them. Another way to serve them is to mix in about 1-1/2 oz. of butter along with a seasoning of pepper and salt after they are served. However, they should be brought to the table quickly, as this small vegetable cools down rapidly. If the cook is very quick, this vegetable can be arranged on the dish in the shape of a pineapple, which makes for a very attractive presentation.
Time.—From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils.
Time.—From 9 to 12 minutes after the water starts boiling.
Average cost, 1s. 4d. per peck.
Average cost, £0.07 per serving.
Sufficient.—Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient.—Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—When the Green Kale, or Borecole, has been advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it assumes the headed or hearting character, with blistered leaves; it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels Sprouts. Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is the cultivated Cabbage of our gardens (the Borecole oleracea capitula of science); and all its varieties of green, red, dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the forms into which it is possible to put it.
SAVOYS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—When Green Kale, or Borecole, has been improved a bit more, it develops a headed or hearting shape with blistered leaves; at this stage, it's called Savoys and Brussels Sprouts. Another variety, which has smooth blue-green leaves, is the cultivated Cabbage found in our gardens (the Borecole oleracea capitula in scientific terms); this includes all its different varieties like green, red, dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and every other shape you can think of.
TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS.
1097. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a very small piece of soda.
1097. INGREDIENTS.—For each 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt and a very small piece of soda.
[Illustration: BRUSSELS SPROUTS.]
[Illustration: Brussels sprouts.]
Mode.—Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well in cold water; drain them in a colander, and put them into fast-boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are done, take them up, or their colour will be spoiled; when well drained, serve. The great art in cooking greens properly, and to have them a good colour, is to put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, to let them boil very quickly, and to take them up the moment they become tender.
Mode.—Remove all the dead leaves, and thoroughly wash the greens in cold water. Drain them in a colander, then place them in rapidly boiling water with salt and soda as specified above. Keep them boiling quickly, without the lid, until they’re tender; as soon as they’re done, take them out, or their color will be ruined. Once drained well, serve them. The key to cooking greens properly and getting a nice color is to use plenty of rapidly boiling water, allow them to boil very quickly, and remove them as soon as they’re tender.
Time.—Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12 minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—Broccoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young greens, 10 to 12 minutes; sprouts, 12 minutes after the water starts boiling.
Seasonable.—Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year.
Seasonable.—You can find different types of sprouts throughout the year.
GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE.—When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is brought into a state of cultivation, its character becomes greatly improved, although it still retains the loose open leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole. The scientific name is Borecole oleracea acephala, and of it there are many varieties, both as regards the form and colour of the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We may observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed, and the Cow or Tree Cabbage.
GREEN KALE, OR BORECOLE.—When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is cultivated, its quality improves significantly, even though it still has loose, open leaves. In this form, it's known as Green Kale, or Borecole. The scientific name is Borecole oleracea acephala, and there are many varieties concerning the shape and color of the leaves, as well as the height the plants can reach. Notably, this includes the Thousand-headed variety and the Cow or Tree Cabbage.
BOILED CABBAGE.
1098. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; a very small piece of soda. Mode.—Pick off all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as possible, and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end; if they should be very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them in a colander, and drain; then put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions. Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done, take them up into a colander, place a plate over them, let them thoroughly drain, dish, and serve.
1098. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaped tablespoon of salt and a very small amount of baking soda. Mode.—Remove all the dead outer leaves, cut off as much of the stalk as you can, and cut the cabbages across twice at the stalk end; if they're very large, quarter them. Wash them thoroughly in cold water, place them in a colander, and let them drain; then put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, adding salt and baking soda in the proportions mentioned above. Stir them down once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until they're tender. As soon as they're done, lift them into a colander, place a plate over them, let them drain completely, then dish up and serve.
Time.—Large cabbages, or savoys, 1/3 to 3/4 hour, young summer cabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—Large cabbages or savoys take about 20 to 45 minutes, while young summer cabbage takes 10 to 12 minutes after the water has boiled.
Average cost, 2d. each in full season.
Average cost, 2 pence each during peak season.
Sufficient,—2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient—2 large ones for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable.—Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time.
In Season.—Cabbages and different types of sprouts available at any time.
THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN.—Of all the tribes of the Cruciferae this is by far the most important. Its scientific name is Brassiceae, and it contains a collection of plants which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the cliffs of Dover, and in many places on the coasts of Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant, with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves, of a sea-green colour, and large yellow flowers. In spring, the leaves of this plant are collected by the inhabitants, who, after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use them as a vegetable along with their meat. This is the Brassica oleracea of science, the Wild Cabbage, or Colewort, from which have originated all the varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Greens, and Brocoli.
THE CABBAGE TRIBE: THEIR ORIGIN.—Of all the tribes of the Cruciferae, this one is by far the most important. Its scientific name is Brassiceae, and it includes a group of plants that, both individually and in their products, play a significant role in agriculture, commerce, and everyday life. On the cliffs of Dover, and in various locations along the coasts of Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant with uniquely indented, wavy, and loosely spreading leaves of a sea-green color, featuring large yellow flowers. In spring, local residents gather the leaves of this plant, which they boil in two waters to remove the saltiness, using them as a vegetable alongside their meat. This is the Brassica oleracea of scientific classification, known as Wild Cabbage or Colewort, from which all varieties of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Greens, and Broccoli have originated.
STEWED RED CABBAGE.
1099. INGREDIENTS.—1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. of fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar.
1099. INGREDIENTS.—1 red cabbage, a small slice of ham, 1/2 oz. of fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of crushed sugar.
Mode.—Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan, with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and the vinegar; cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is very tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and pepper, and the pounded sugar; mix all well together, stir over the fire until nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages are usually sent to table with this dish: they should be laid round and on the cabbage, as a garnish.
Mode.—Slice the cabbage very thin and place it in a pot with diced ham, butter, 1/2 pint of stock, and vinegar. Cover the pot tightly and let it cook for 1 hour. Once it’s very tender, add the remaining stock, a pinch of salt and pepper, and the sugar. Mix everything together, stir over the heat until most of the liquid has evaporated, and serve. Fried sausages are typically served with this dish; arrange them around and on top of the cabbage as a garnish.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 4d. each.
Time.—Just over 1 hour. Average cost, 4d. each.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Fits 4 people.
Seasonable from September to January.
Available from September to January.
THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT.—This plant, as it is found on the sea-cliffs of England, presents us with the origin of the cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this state it is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now applied to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart.
THE WILD CABBAGE, OR COLEWORT.—This plant, as it grows on the sea cliffs of England, shows us the most basic and natural form of the cabbage family. In this form, it is the true Collet, or Colewort, although that name is now used for any young cabbage that has a loose and open heart.
BOILED CARROTS.
1100. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; carrots.
1100. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaped tablespoon of salt; carrots.
Mode.—Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and should there be any black specks, remove them. If very large, cut them in halves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into them: dish, and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable accompaniment to boiled beef. When thus served, it is usually boiled with the beef; a few carrots are placed round the dish as a garnish, and the remainder sent to table in a vegetable-dish. Young carrots do not require nearly so much boiling, nor should they be divided: these make a nice addition to stewed veal, &c.
Mode.—Remove the green tops, wash and peel the carrots, and if there are any black spots, cut them out. If the carrots are very large, slice them in half, then cut each half lengthwise into four pieces, and place them into boiling, salted water as mentioned earlier; let them cook until tender, which you can check by poking them with a fork: dish them up and serve hot. This vegetable is a must-have side for boiled beef. When served this way, it is typically boiled alongside the beef; a few carrots are arranged around the dish as a garnish, and the rest are served in a vegetable dish. Young carrots don’t need as much boiling time, and you don’t need to cut them up: they make a great addition to stewed veal, etc.
Time.—Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2 hour.
Time.—Large carrots, 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours; young ones, about 1/2 hour.
Average cost, 6d. to 8d, per bunch of 18.
Average cost, 6d to 8d, per bunch of 18.
Sufficient,—4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient—4 large carrots for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
Seasonable.—Fresh carrots from April to June, older ones at any time.
[Illustration: CARROTS.]
[Illustration: CARROTS.]
ORIGIN OF THE CARROT.—In its wild state, this vegetable is found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and hard, with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic smell, and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a peculiar, sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by naturalists not to contain much nourishing matter, and, generally speaking, is somewhat difficult of digestion.
ORIGIN OF THE CARROT.—In its natural form, this vegetable is commonly found in Britain, both in farms and along roadsides, and is called birds-nest because its clusters of fruit curve inward from a hollow shape, resembling a bird's nest. In this wild state, its root is white, thin, and tough, with a sharp, unpleasant taste and a strong aromatic smell, and it was previously used as a laxative. When it’s cultivated, it turns reddish, becomes thick and fleshy, emits a pleasant aroma, and has a unique, sweet, gooey taste. Naturalists say that carrots don't have much nutritional value and, in general, can be a bit hard to digest.
TO DRESS CARROTS IN THE GERMAN WAY.
1101. INGREDIENTS.—8 large carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt to taste, a very little grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley, 1 dessertspoonful of minced onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour.
1101. INGREDIENTS.—8 large carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt to taste, a pinch of grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoon of finely chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon of chopped onion, a little more than 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoon of flour.
Mode.—Wash and scrape the carrots, and cut them into rings of about 1/4 inch in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, lay in the carrots, with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and onion in the above proportions. Toss the stewpan over the fire for a few minutes, and when the carrots are well saturated with the butter, pour in the stock, and simmer gently until they are nearly tender. Then put into another stewpan a small piece of butter; dredge in about a tablespoonful of flour; stir this over the fire, and when of a nice brown colour, add the liquor that the carrots have been boiling in; let this just boil up, pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan, and let them finish simmering until quite tender. Serve very hot.
Mode.—Wash and peel the carrots, then cut them into rings about 1/4 inch thick. Put the butter in a saucepan; once it's melted, add the carrots along with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and onion in the specified amounts. Stir the saucepan over the heat for a few minutes, and when the carrots are well coated in butter, pour in the stock and let it simmer gently until the carrots are almost tender. Next, in another saucepan, add a small piece of butter; sprinkle in about a tablespoon of flour; stir this over the heat until it turns a nice brown color, then add the liquid that the carrots have been boiling in; let it come to a boil, pour it over the carrots in the other saucepan, and let them continue simmering until fully tender. Serve very hot.
This vegetable, dressed as above, is a favourite accompaniment of roast pork, sausages, &c. &c.
This vegetable, prepared as mentioned above, is a popular side dish for roast pork, sausages, etc.
Time.—About 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.
Time.—About 45 minutes. Average cost, 6 pence to 8 pence per bunch of 18.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable.—Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
Seasonable.—Fresh carrots from April to June, mature ones year-round.
CONSTITUENTS OF THE CARROT.—These are crystallizable and uncrystallizable sugar, a little starch, extractive, gluten, albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly, or pectin, saline matter, malic acid, and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red neuter principle, without odour or taste, called carotin. This vegetable jelly, or pectin, so named from its singular property of gelatinizing, is considered by some as another form of gum or mucilage, combined with vegetable acid. It exists more or less in all vegetables, and is especially abundant in those roots and fruits from which jellies are prepared.
CONSTITUENTS OF THE CARROT.—These include crystallizable and uncrystallizable sugars, a bit of starch, extractive substances, gluten, albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly (or pectin), mineral salts, malic acid, and a unique crystallizable ruby-red neutral substance, which has no smell or taste, called carotin. This vegetable jelly, or pectin, is named for its unique ability to form a gel and is thought by some to be another form of gum or mucilage combined with vegetable acid. It is found in varying amounts in all vegetables, but is especially plentiful in the roots and fruits from which jellies are made.
STEWED CARROTS.
1102. INGREDIENTS.—7 or 8 large carrots, 1 teacupful of broth, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 teacupful of cream, thickening of butter and flour.
1102. INGREDIENTS.—7 or 8 large carrots, 1 cup of broth, pepper and salt to taste, 1/2 cup of cream, thickening made from butter and flour.
Mode.—Scrape the carrots nicely; half-boil, and slice them into a stewpan; add the broth, pepper and salt, and cream; simmer till tender, and be careful the carrots are not broken. A few minutes before serving, mix a little flour with about 1 oz. of butter; thicken the gravy with this; let it just boil up, and serve.
Mode.—Peel the carrots, partially boil them, and slice them into a saucepan; add the broth, pepper, salt, and cream; simmer until they’re tender, being careful not to break the carrots. A few minutes before serving, mix a bit of flour with around 1 oz. of butter; use this to thicken the gravy; let it come to a gentle boil, and serve.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to parboil the carrots, about 20 minutes to cook them after they are sliced.
Time.—About 45 minutes to partially cook the carrots, then around 20 minutes to cook them after slicing.
Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.
Average cost, 6 to 8 pence per bunch of 18.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
In Season.—Young carrots from April to June, mature ones anytime.
NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE CARROT.—Sir H. Davy ascertained the nutritive matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts in one thousand; of which ninety-five are sugar and three are starch. It is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give colour and flavour to butter; and it is excellent in stews, haricots, soups, and, when boiled whole, with salt beef. In the distillery, owing to the great proportion of sugar in its composition, it yields more spirit than the potato. The usual quantity is twelve gallons per ton.
NUTRITIVE PROPERTIES OF THE CARROT.—Sir H. Davy found that the carrot contains ninety-eight parts of nutrients for every one thousand; of which ninety-five are sugar and three are starch. It’s used in winter and spring in dairies to add color and flavor to butter, and it’s great in stews, beans, soups, and when boiled whole with salted beef. In distilleries, because of its high sugar content, it produces more alcohol than potatoes, typically yielding about twelve gallons per ton.
SLICED CARROTS.
(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course, as a Side-dish.)
(Entremets, or to be served with the second course, as a side dish.)
1103. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 large carrots, a large lump of sugar, 1 pint of weak stock, 3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste.
1103. INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 large carrots, a large piece of sugar, 1 pint of mild stock, 3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste.
Mode.—Scrape and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an equal size, and boil them in salt and water, until half done; drain them well, put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock, and let them boil over a brisk fire. When reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butter and a seasoning of salt; shake the stewpan about well, and when the butter is well mixed with the carrots, serve. There should be no sauce in the dish when it comes to table, but it should all adhere to the carrots.
Mode.—Peel and wash the carrots, slice them evenly, and boil them in salted water until they're halfway cooked; drain them well, place them in a saucepan with the sugar and stock, and let them boil over a strong heat. Once reduced to a glaze, add the fresh butter and a pinch of salt; shake the saucepan well, and when the butter is thoroughly mixed with the carrots, serve. There shouldn't be any sauce on the plate when it’s served, but everything should stick to the carrots.
Time.—Altogether, 3/4 hour.
Time.—Total: 45 minutes.
Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.
Average cost, 6p to 8p per bunch of 18.
Sufficient for 1 dish.
Enough for 1 dish.
Seasonable.—Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any time.
Seasonable.—Fresh carrots from April to June, mature ones any time.
THE SEED OF THE CARROT.—In order to save the seed of carrots, the plan is, to select annually the most perfect and best-shaped roots in the taking-up season, and either preserve them in sand in a cellar till spring, or plant them immediately in an open airy part of the garden, protecting them with litter during severe frost, or earthing them over, and uncovering them in March following. The seed is in no danger from being injured by any other plant. In August it is fit to gather, and is best preserved on the stalks till wanted.
THE SEED OF THE CARROT.—To save carrot seeds, the plan is to choose the most perfect and well-shaped roots each year during harvest season. You can either keep them in sand in a cool place until spring or plant them right away in a well-ventilated area of the garden, covering them with straw during harsh frosts or mounding soil over them and uncovering them in March. The seeds aren’t at risk of being damaged by other plants. They are ready to be harvested in August, and it’s best to leave them on the stalks until you need them.
BOILED CAULIFLOWERS.
[Illustration: BOILED CAULIFLOWER.]
[Illustration: Steamed Cauliflower.]
[Illustration: CAULIFLOWER.]
[Illustration: CAULIFLOWER.]
1104. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1104. INGREDIENTS.—For each 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off the decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Open the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: this will effectually draw out all the vermin. Then put them into fast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion, and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepan uncovered. The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowers are tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if large enough, place them upright in the dish. Serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flower.
Method.—Select cauliflowers that are compact and white; remove any decayed outer leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom. Gently open the flower in a few spots to get rid of insects, which are usually found around the stalk, and soak the cauliflowers in salted water for an hour with their heads facing down. This will help remove all the pests. Then, place them in boiling water with salt, as mentioned earlier, and let them cook quickly over a good flame, leaving the saucepan uncovered. Make sure to skim the water well; when the cauliflowers are tender, lift them out with a slotted spoon, let them drain, and if they’re big enough, stand them upright on the serving dish. Serve with plain melted butter, drizzling a little over the florets.
Time.—Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes; large cauliflower, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water starts boiling.
Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.
Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6 pence each.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons.
Enough.—Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 people.
Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.
In season from the beginning of June to the end of September.
CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE.
(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
(Entremets, or side dish, to be served with the second course.)
1105. INGREDIENTS.—3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of sauce blanche, or French melted butter, No. 378; 3 oz. of butter; salt and water.
1105. INGREDIENTS.—3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of white sauce, or French melted butter, No. 378; 3 oz. of butter; salt and water.
Mode.—Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and cut the stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in salt and water, to which the above proportion of butter has been added, and be careful to take them up the moment they are done, or they will break, and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled. Drain them well, and dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower. Have ready 1/2 pint of sauce, made by recipe No. 378, pour it over the flowers, and serve hot and quickly.
Method.—Clean the cauliflower as described in the previous recipe and trim the stalks flat at the bottom. Boil them in salted water with the mentioned amount of butter until they're tender, and make sure to remove them as soon as they are done, or they will fall apart, ruining the presentation of the dish. Drain them well and arrange them in the shape of a large cauliflower. Prepare 1/2 pint of sauce from recipe No. 378, pour it over the cauliflower, and serve hot and promptly.
Time.—Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes; large ones, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.
Average cost,—large cauliflowers, in full season, 6d. each.
Average cost,—large cauliflowers, in peak season, 6d. each.
Sufficient,—1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons.
Sufficient,—1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.
In season from the beginning of June to the end of September.
CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI.—These are only forms of the wild Cabbage in its cultivated state. They are both well known; but we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only varieties of the Cauliflower.
CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI.—These are just cultivated versions of wild Cabbage. They're both widely recognized; however, it's worth noting that the purple and white Broccoli are simply different varieties of Cauliflower.
CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)
1106. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint of white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.
1106. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cauliflowers, just over 1/2 pint of white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 3 tablespoons of bread crumbs.
Mode.—Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and drain them and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have ready the above proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over the cauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which should be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or before the fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of the sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesan cheese.
Method.—Clean and boil the cauliflowers according to recipe No. 1104, then drain them and arrange them with the florets standing up. Prepare the white sauce in the same amount mentioned above; pour enough over the cauliflowers to just cover the top; then sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs on top, and add melted butter, but not too oily. Brown them with a salamander or in front of the fire, and pour the remaining sauce, which should have a small amount of grated Parmesan mixed in, around—not over—the florets.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.
Time.—In total, 30 minutes. Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.
Sufficient,—3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.
Sufficient—3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.
Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.
In season from early June to the end of September.
CELERY.
[Illustration: CELERY IN GLASS.]
[Illustration: CELERY IN A GLASS.]
1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is generally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese. Let the roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves being cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks or blemishes being carefully removed. Should the celery be large, divide it lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in a celery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water. The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips with the point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from the top.
1107. With a good heart and nicely blanched, this vegetable is usually eaten raw and typically served with cheese. Wash the roots to remove any dirt, cutting off all the decayed and outer leaves while keeping as much of the stalk as possible, and carefully remove any spots or blemishes. If the celery is large, cut it lengthwise into quarters and place it, root down, in a celery glass that is filled a little more than halfway with water. The top leaves can be curled by shredding them into narrow strips with the tip of a clean skewer about 4 inches from the top.
Average cost, 2d. per head.
Average cost, 2d. each.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—Plan for 2 heads for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from October to April.
Available from October to April.
Note.—This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups, sauces, &c., and makes a very nice addition to winter salad.
Note.—This vegetable is extremely helpful for adding flavor to soups, sauces, etc., and is a great addition to winter salads.
STEWED CELERY A LA CREME.
1108. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint of cream.
1108. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery; for each 1/2 gallon of water, add 1 heaping tablespoon of salt, 1 blade of crushed mace, and 1/3 pint of cream.
Mode.—Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and water until tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake it over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over the sauce, and serve.
Mode.—Wash the celery thoroughly; cut it, and boil it in salted water until it's tender. Put the cream and ground mace into a saucepan; heat it over the stove until the cream thickens, plate the celery, pour the sauce over it, and serve.
Time.—Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20 minutes.
Average cost. 2d. per head.
Average cost: 2d. each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from October to April.
Available from October to April.
ALEXANDERS.—This plant is the Smyrnium olustratum of science, and is used in this country in the same way in which celery is. It is a native of Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast. It received its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina," and is supposed to have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may, its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned.
ALEXANDERS.—This plant is the Smyrnium olustratum in scientific terms and is used in this country similarly to celery. It is native to Great Britain and grows wild near the coast. It got its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina," and it's believed to have originally come from Alexandria; however, regardless of its origins, its cultivation is now mostly forgotten.
STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce).
Stewed Celery (with White Sauce).
I.
1109. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 537 or 538.
1109. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; for each 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 537 or 538.
Mode.—Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery, with salt and butter in the above proportion. Wash the celery well; cut off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape the root into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidly until tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, and pour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipes No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast, and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished.
Mode.—Have enough boiling water ready to just cover the celery, with salt and butter in the proportions mentioned above. Wash the celery thoroughly; remove any wilted outer leaves, trim the green tops, and shape the root to a point; place it in the boiling water; let it boil rapidly until tender; then take it out, drain well, put it on a plate, and pour about 1/2 pint of white sauce over it, made using either recipe No. 537 or 538. It can also be boiled plainly as described, placed on toast, and topped with melted butter, just like asparagus is served.
Time.—Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils.
Time.—Big heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water comes to a boil.
Average cost, 2d. per head.
Average cost, 2d. each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from October to April.
Seasonal from October to April.
ORIGIN OF CELERY.—In the marshes and ditches of this country there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank, coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the ancients as one of the "five greater aperient roots." There is a variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large. It is called Celeriae, and is extensively used by the Germans, and preferred by them to celery. In a raw state, this plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken.
ORIGIN OF CELERY.—In the marshes and ditches of this country, there is a very common plant known as Smallage. This is the wild version of celery; however, when cultivated, it loses its bitter quality and becomes mild and sweet. In its natural state, it has a strong, coarse taste and smell, and its root was considered by the ancients as one of the "five major aperient roots." There is a variety in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large. It is called Celeriae, and is widely used by the Germans, who prefer it over celery. In its raw form, this plant isn’t suitable for weak stomachs; when cooked, it’s easier to digest, but a large amount shouldn't be consumed.
[Illustration: CELERY.].
[Illustration: CELERY.]
II.
1110. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste.
1110. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak broth, 4 tablespoons of cream, a thickener made of butter and flour, 1 blade of crushed mace, a tiny bit of grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into lengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the broth, and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then add the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pour into a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with sippets of toasted bread.
Mode.—Wash the celery, remove the outer leaves, and cut it into pieces about 4 inches long. Place these in a saucepan with the broth and cook until tender, which should take about 20 to 25 minutes. Then add the remaining ingredients and simmer everything together for 4 or 5 minutes, pour into a dish, and serve. You can garnish it with toasted bread sippets.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, 2d. per head.
Time.—Total time: 30 minutes. Average cost, 2 pence per person.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from October to April.
In season from October to April.
Note.—By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a little longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above stew may be converted into a puree of celery.
Note.—By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, cooking it a bit longer, and then straining it through a sieve when it's done, the above stew can be turned into a celery puree.
TO DRESS CUCUMBERS.
1111. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber.
1111. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoons of salad oil, 4 tablespoons of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber.
Mode.—Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into very thin slices, and commence cutting from the thick end; if commenced at the stalk, the cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far from agreeable. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper, and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumber about, and it is ready to serve. This is a favourite accompaniment to boiled salmon, is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads, and makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad.
Mode.—Peel the cucumber, slice it evenly into very thin pieces, and start cutting from the thicker end; if you start at the stem, the cucumber will likely taste extremely bitter, which is not pleasant. Place the slices in a dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle with oil and vinegar in the mentioned amounts; toss the cucumber, and it’s ready to serve. This is a popular side dish for boiled salmon, a nice addition to all kinds of salads, and makes a lovely garnish for lobster salad.
[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS.]
[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS.]
[Illustration: CUCUMBER.]
[Illustration: CUCUMBER.]
Average cost, when scarce, 1s. to 2s. 6d.; when cheapest, may be had for 4d. each.
Average cost, when limited, is 1s. to 2s. 6d.; when at its lowest, it can be found for 4d. each.
Seasonable.—Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in full season in July, August, and September.
Seasonable.—Available from early March to late June; in peak season during July, August, and September.
GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE CUCUMBERS.—This family is not known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate, but in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are abundant. They are most plentiful in the continent of Hindostan; but in America are not near so plentiful. Many of the kinds supply useful articles of consumption for food, and others are actively medicinal in their virtues. Generally speaking, delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and indigestible.
GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF CUCUMBERS.—This family isn’t found in cold regions, is somewhat rare in temperate areas, but is abundant in tropical and warmer regions around the world. They are most common on the Indian subcontinent; however, they are not nearly as plentiful in America. Many varieties provide useful food products, while others have significant medicinal properties. In general, people with sensitive stomachs should stay away from this plant, as it is cold and hard to digest.
CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.
1112. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.
1112. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley, a lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness, and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for 1/2 hour; then drain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the butter. Fry them over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then dredge over them a little flour; add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise to the surface, and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced; but the cucumber should not be broken. Stir in the yolks of the eggs, add the parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; bring the whole to the point of boiling, and serve.
Mode.—Peel and slice the cucumbers into even pieces, and let them soak in a mix of salt and vinegar for 30 minutes; then drain them using a cloth and place them in a pan with the butter. Cook them over medium heat, but avoid browning them. Then sprinkle a bit of flour on top; add the broth, skim off any fat that rises to the top, and let it simmer gently until the sauce reduces a bit, making sure the cucumbers don’t fall apart. Stir in the egg yolks, add the parsley, sugar, and season with pepper and salt; bring it all to a boil and serve.
Time.—Altogether, 1 hour.
Time.—Total: 1 hour.
Average cost, when cheapest, 4d. each.
Average cost, at its lowest, 4d. each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.
Available in July, August, and September; but can be found, grown in a controlled environment, from the beginning of March.
FRIED CUCUMBERS.
1113. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour, oil or butter.
1113. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and pepper to taste, flour, oil or butter.
Mode.—Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end of the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour, and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning them about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve, piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great improvement to rump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top.
Method.—Peel the cucumbers and slice them evenly, starting from the thicker end, not the stem end. Pat the slices dry with a cloth, coat them with flour, and place them in a pan of hot oil or butter. Keep turning them until they're brown; remove them from the pan, let them drain, and serve them piled gently on a plate. These make a great addition to rump steak and should be served on a plate with the steak on top.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, when cheapest, 4d. each.
Time.—5 minutes. Average cost, at its lowest, 4d. each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable.—Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in full season in July and August.
Seasonable.—Available from the start of March to the end of June; at its peak in July and August.
PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS.—The common cucumber is the C. sativus of science, and although the whole of the family have a similar action in the animal economy, yet there are some which present us with great anomalies. The roots of those which are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a resinous, acrid, and bitter principle. The fruits of this family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and are more or less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds, cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, and squashes. But these are slightly laxative if partaken of largely. In tropical countries, this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of their food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren islands, is of the finest quality. In China, Cashmere, and Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating collections of weeds common in these localities. In India they are everywhere abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state, and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous.
PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS.—The common cucumber is C. sativus in scientific terms, and while all members of this family have a similar effect on the human body, some show remarkable differences. The roots of perennial varieties contain, in addition to starch, a resinous, pungent, and bitter substance. Generally, the fruits of this family have a sweet flavor and are either dissolving or fragrant, as seen in melons, gourds, cucumbers, vegetable marrows, and squashes. However, consuming them in large amounts can have a mild laxative effect. In tropical regions, this category of plants provides a significant portion of food for the locals, even thriving in the driest deserts and most barren islands, where they are of exceptional quality. In places like China, Cashmere, and Persia, they grow on lakes among floating mats of weeds typical to those areas. In India, they are widely available, whether cultivated or wild, and the seeds from all these plants are sweet and have a mucilaginous texture.
STEWED CUCUMBERS.
1114. INGREDIENTS.—3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.
1114. INGREDIENTS.—3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, a little more than 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.
Mode.—Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are intended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them into boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes; then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, and let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender. Should these be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim the sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve.
Method.—Slice the cucumbers lengthwise to match the size of the dish they will be served in; remove the seeds and place them in boiling water with a little salt. Let them simmer for 5 minutes; then take them out and put them in another pot with the gravy, allowing them to boil over a lively heat until the cucumbers are tender. If they taste bitter, add a piece of sugar; carefully plate them, skim the sauce, pour it over the cucumbers, and serve.
Time.—Altogether, 20 minutes.
Duration.—Altogether, 20 minutes.
Average cost, when cheapest, 1d. each.
Average cost, at its lowest, 1 penny each.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Suitable for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.
In season in June, July, and August; but can be found, grown artificially, starting from the beginning of March.
THE CHATE.—This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the Melon. In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives, as well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have.
THE CHATE.—This cucumber comes from Egypt and Arabia, and it produces a fruit that's almost the same as that of the Melon. In Egypt, it's valued by the upper-class locals and Europeans alike as the most enjoyable fruit they have.
STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS.
1115. INGREDIENTS.—6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1 pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated nutmeg.
1115. INGREDIENTS.—6 cucumbers, 3 medium-sized onions, just under 1 pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a tiny bit of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut the onions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock, and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be very large. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add the cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, and serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c.
Mode.—Peel and slice the cucumbers, remove the seeds, and cut the onions into thin slices; place both in a pot with the stock, and let them boil for 15 minutes or longer if the cucumbers are very large. Whisk the yolks of 2 eggs; mix these into the sauce; add the cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to a boil, and serve. Do not let the sauce boil too hard, or it will curdle. This is a favorite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump steaks, etc.
Time.—Altogether, 20 minutes.
Time.—Total: 20 minutes.
Average cost, when cheapest, 4d. each.
Average cost, at its lowest, 4d. each.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.
In season in July, August, and September; but can be available, grown in greenhouses, from the beginning of March.
THE MELON.—This is another species of the cucumber, and is highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit. It was introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570; since which period it has continued to be cultivated. It was formerly called the Musk Melon.
THE MELON.—This is another type of cucumber, and it’s highly valued for its sweet and tasty fruit. It was brought to this country from Jamaica in 1570, and it has been grown ever since. It was once known as the Musk Melon.
ENDIVE.
[Illustration: ENDIVE.]
[Illustration: ENDIVE.]
1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellent addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are not obtainable. It is usually placed in the centre of the dish, and looks remarkably pretty with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled celery placed round it, so that the colours contrast nicely. In preparing it, carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects, which are generally found near the heart; remove any decayed or dead leaves, and dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth. This vegetable may also be served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when dressed thus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned, as that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable.
1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, is a fantastic addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad greens are hard to find. It is usually placed in the center of the dish and looks particularly lovely with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled celery arranged around it, creating a nice contrast of colors. When preparing it, make sure to wash it thoroughly and remove any insects that are often found near the heart; take away any wilted or dead leaves, and dry it well by shaking it in a cloth. This vegetable can also be served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when prepared this way, the sauce shouldn’t be too heavily seasoned, as that would mask and overpower the vegetable's flavor.
Average cost, 1d. per head.
Average cost, 1 pence each.
Sufficient,—1 head for a salad for 4 persons.
Sufficient,—1 head of lettuce for a salad for 4 people.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
ENDIVE.—This is the C. endivium of science, and is much used as a salad. It belongs to the family of the Compositae, with Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the same genus. Withering states, that before the stems of the common Goats-beard shoot up the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the same flavour, and are nearly as nutritious. We are also informed by Villars that the children in Dauphiné universally eat the stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear, with great avidity. The fresh juice of these tender herbs is said to be the best solvent of bile.
ENDIVE.—This is the C. endivium scientifically, and it’s commonly used as a salad. It belongs to the Compositae family, along with Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others in the same genus. Withering mentions that before the stems of the common Goats-beard grow tall, the roots, when boiled like asparagus, have a similar taste and are almost as nutritious. Villars notes that children in Dauphiné eagerly eat the stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers bloom. The fresh juice from these tender herbs is said to be the best for dissolving bile.
STEWED ENDIVE.
1117. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a small lump of sugar.
1117. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, a small piece of sugar.
Mode.—Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it till there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a stewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boil up, and serve.
Method.—Wash the endive thoroughly to remove any insects, cut off the green parts of the leaves, and place it in boiling salted water. Let it cook for 10 minutes; then remove it, drain it until no water is left, and chop it finely. Place it in a saucepan with the broth; add a little salt and a cube of sugar, and boil until the endive is completely tender. You can check this by squeezing a piece between your thumb and finger. Once done, add a thickening made of butter and flour along with lemon juice: let the sauce come to a boil, and serve.
Time.—10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.
Time.—10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.
Average cost, 1d. per head.
Average cost, 1d. per person.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISE.
1118. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. of fresh butter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.
1118. INGREDIENTS.—6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. of fresh butter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe; chop it rather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth; boil over a brisk fire until the sauce is all reduced; then put in the butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used); mix all well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Wash and boil the endive as in the previous recipe; chop it fairly fine, and put it into a saucepan with the broth; boil over a strong heat until the sauce has reduced completely; then add the butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter should be used very sparingly); mix everything well, bring it to a boil, and serve very hot.
Time,—10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.
Time—10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to let it simmer in the broth.
Average cost, 1d. per head.
Average cost, 1p per person.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT BEANS.
Boil white beans.
1119. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of soft water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1119. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of white kidney beans, 2 quarts of soft water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to 4 hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted in the above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer very slowly until tender; pour the water away from them, let them stand by the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to allow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and serve: do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to pieces.
Mode.—Put the beans in cold water and let them soak for 2 to 4 hours, depending on how old they are; then place them in cold water, salted as mentioned above, bring to a boil, and let them simmer very slowly until they’re tender. Drain the water, let them sit by the fire with the lid of the saucepan slightly off to allow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and season with pepper and salt. Shake the beans for a minute or two, and serve: do not stir them with a spoon, to avoid breaking them apart.
Time.—After the water boils, from 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Time.—After the water boils, cook for 2 to 2.5 hours.
Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in winter, when other vegetables are scarce.
In season during winter, when other vegetables are hard to find.
Note.—Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boiling water, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing.
Note.—Fresh white beans, when new, should be placed into boiling water and do not need to be soaked before cooking.
HARICOTS AND LENTILS.—Although these vegetables are not much used in this country, yet in France, and other Catholic countries, from their peculiar constituent properties, they form an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent and maigre days. At the time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in this country, they were probably much more generally used than at present. As reformations are often carried beyond necessity, possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of diet amongst Protestants, for fear the use of them might be considered a sign of popery.
HARICOTS AND LENTILS.—Although these vegetables aren't widely used in this country, in France and other Catholic countries, they serve as a great substitute for meat during Lent and maigre days thanks to their unique properties. When Roman Catholicism was more dominant here, they were likely consumed much more frequently than now. As reforms often go too far, lentils may have fallen out of favor among Protestants, possibly because their consumption could be seen as a sign of being associated with Catholicism.
HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
1120. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
1120. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
[Illustration: HARICOT BEANS.]
[Illustration: Kidney Beans.]
Mode.—Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two in cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding recipe. If the water should boil away, replenish it with a little more cold, which makes the skin of the beans tender. Let them be very thoroughly done; drain them well; then add to them the butter, minced parsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Keep moving the stewpan over the fire without using a spoon, as this would break the beans; and, when the various ingredients are well mixed with them, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve very hot.
Mode.—If the beans are really dry, soak them in cold water for an hour or two, and then boil them until they’re completely tender, just like in the previous recipe. If the water boils away, add some cold water to keep the beans tender. Make sure they’re cooked thoroughly; drain them well, then mix in the butter, minced parsley, and some pepper and salt. Keep shaking the pot over the heat without using a spoon, as that could break the beans; once everything is well combined, squeeze in some lemon juice, and serve it hot.
Time.—From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans.
Time.—It takes about 2 to 2.5 hours to boil the beans.
Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
HARICOT BEANS.—This is the haricot blanc of the French, and is a native of India. It ripens readily, in dry summers, in most parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been confined to gardens in England; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown in fields. It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants, which, being dried, are stacked and thrashed. The haulm is both of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it were well if the working classes of this country were acquainted. There is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked, and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing. The beans are boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and a little milk or water and flour. From 3,840 parts of kidney-bean Einholff obtained 1,805 parts of matter analogous to starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage.
HARICOT BEANS.—This is the haricot blanc in French, and it originates from India. It grows well in dry summers across most of Britain, but it has mostly been cultivated in gardens in England; however, it's grown in fields in Germany and Switzerland. It's typically harvested by pulling up the plants, which are then dried, stacked, and threshed. The leftover plant material is not very useful, but the seeds are used to make the popular French dish called haricot, which would be beneficial for the working class here to know about. There might not be another vegetable dish that is so affordable, easy to prepare, and at the same time, so tasty and nutritious. The beans are boiled and mixed with some fat or salted butter, along with a bit of milk or water and flour. From 3,840 parts of kidney beans, Einholff derived 1,805 parts of something similar to starch, 351 parts of plant-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage.
HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS.
1121. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-sized onions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour.
1121. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 medium-sized onions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour.
Mode.—Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them in butter of a light brown colour; dredge over them a little flour, and add the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Have ready a pint of haricot beans well boiled and drained; put them with the onions and gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Chop the onions into small pieces but not too finely, and sauté them in butter until they're a light brown. Sprinkle a bit of flour over them, then add the gravy along with some pepper and salt to taste. Have a pint of haricot beans that have been boiled and drained; combine them with the onions and gravy, mix everything well, and serve very hot.
Time.—From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry the onions.
Time.—It takes 2 to 2.5 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry the onions.
Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Average cost, 4d. per quart.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
HORSERADISH.
1122. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast beef, and is used for garnishing many kinds of boiled fish. Let the horseradish remain in cold water for an hour; wash it well, and with a sharp knife scrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick end of the root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and the remainder use for garnishing the joint: it should be placed in tufts round the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat.
1122. This root, when scraped, is always served with hot roast beef and is used to garnish various types of boiled fish. Let the horseradish soak in cold water for an hour; wash it thoroughly, and with a sharp knife, scrape it into very thin pieces, starting from the thick end of the root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and use the rest to garnish the meat: it should be placed in bunches around the edge of the dish, with 1 or 2 clusters on the meat.
Average cost, 2d. per stick.
Average cost, 2p per stick.
Seasonable from October to June.
In season from October to June.
[Illustration: HORSERADISH.]
[Illustration: HORSERADISH.]
THE HORSERADISH.—This belongs to the tribe Alyssidae, and is highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach. It has been recommended in chronic rheumatism, palsy, dropsical complaints, and in cases of enfeebled digestion. Its principal use, however, is as a condiment to promote appetite and excite the digestive organs. The horseradish contains sulphur to the extent of thirty per cent, in the number of its elements; and it is to the presence of this quality that the metal vessels in which the radish is sometimes distilled, are turned into a black colour. It is one of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we have, and forms the basis of several medical preparations, in the form of wines, tinctures, and syrups.
THE HORSERADISH.—This belongs to the tribe Alyssidae, and is quite stimulating and exciting for the stomach. It's been suggested for chronic rheumatism, paralysis, water retention issues, and weak digestion. However, its main use is as a condiment to boost appetite and stimulate the digestive system. Horseradish contains about thirty percent sulfur among its elements; it's this quality that causes metal vessels used to distill it to turn black. It’s one of the most powerful stimulants and anti-scurvy agents we have, and it’s the base for several medical preparations, including wines, tinctures, and syrups.
LETTUCES.
1123. These form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads; should be nicely blanched, and be eaten young. They are seldom served in any other way, but may be stewed and sent to table in a good brown gravy flavoured with lemon-juice. In preparing them for a salad, carefully wash them free from dirt, pick off all the decayed and outer leaves, and dry them thoroughly by shaking them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks, and either halve or cut the lettuces into small pieces. The manner of cutting them up entirely depends on the salad for which they are intended. In France the lettuces are sometimes merely wiped with a cloth and not washed, the cooks there declaring that the act of washing them injuriously affects the pleasant crispness of the plant: in this case scrupulous attention must be paid to each leaf, and the grit thoroughly wiped away.
1123. These are one of the main ingredients for summer salads; they should be blanched nicely and eaten while they’re young. They're rarely prepared in any other way, but they can be stewed and served with a rich brown gravy flavored with lemon juice. When preparing them for a salad, make sure to wash them thoroughly to remove any dirt, remove all the spoiled and outer leaves, and dry them completely by shaking them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks and either halve the lettuces or chop them into small pieces. The way you cut them depends on the type of salad you’re making. In France, they sometimes just wipe the lettuces with a cloth instead of washing them, as chefs there believe that washing harms the nice crispness of the plant; in this case, you need to pay close attention to each leaf and ensure there's no grit left.
Average cost, when cheapest, 1d. each.
Average cost, at its lowest, is 1 penny each.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—Use 2 heads of lettuce for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from March to the end of August, but may be had all the year.
In season from March to the end of August, but can be found all year round.
[Illustration: LETTUCE.]
[Illustration: LETTUCE.]
THE LETTUCE.—All the varieties of the garden lettuce have originated from the Lactuca sativa of science, which has never yet been found in a wild state. Hence it may be concluded that it is merely another form of some species, changed through the effects of cultivation. In its young state, the lettuce forms a well-known and wholesome salad, containing a bland pellucid juice, with little taste or smell, and having a cooling and soothing influence on the system. This arises from the large quantities of water and mucilage it contains, and not from any narcotic principle which it is supposed to possess. During the period of flowering, it abounds in a peculiar milky juice, which flows from the stem when wounded, and which has been found to be possessed of decided medicinal properties.
THE LETTUCE.—All the varieties of garden lettuce come from the Lactuca sativa, which has never been found in the wild. Therefore, it can be concluded that it is just another form of a species that has changed due to cultivation. In its young state, lettuce makes a well-known and healthy salad, containing a clear, mild juice with little flavor or smell, and it has a cooling and soothing effect on the body. This is due to the large amounts of water and mucilage it contains, not from any supposed narcotic properties. During the flowering phase, it produces a unique milky juice that flows from the stem when damaged, and this juice has been found to have significant medicinal properties.
BAKED MUSHROOMS.
(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)
(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)
1124. INGREDIENTS.—16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to taste.
1124. INGREDIENTS.—16 to 20 mushroom caps, butter, pepper to taste.
Mode.—For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better than the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of the stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with a very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a little pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer should the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a very hot dish, pile the mushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them to table quickly, with very hot plates.
Method.—For this cooking method, mushroom caps are better than the buttons, and they shouldn’t be too big. Cut a bit off the stem, peel the top, and carefully wipe the mushrooms with a piece of flannel and a little fine salt. Place them in a tin baking dish, with a tiny piece of butter on each mushroom; sprinkle a bit of pepper over them, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer if the mushrooms are very large. Have a very hot dish ready, stack the mushrooms high in the center, pour the gravy around, and serve quickly with very hot plates.
Time.—20 minutes; large mushrooms, 1/2 hour.
Time.—20 minutes; large mushrooms, 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1d. each for large mushroom-flaps.
Average cost, $1.00 each for large mushroom flaps.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October; you can find cultivated mushrooms at any time.
FUNGI.—These are common parasitical plants, originating in the production of copious filamentous threads, called the mycelium, or spawn. Rounded tubers appear on the mycelium; some of these enlarge rapidly, burst an outer covering, which is left at the base, and protrude a thick stalk, bearing at its summit a rounded body, which in a short time expands into the pileus or cap. The gills, which occupy its lower surface, consist of parallel plates, bearing naked sporules over their whole surface. Some of the cells, which are visible by the microscope, produce four small cells at their free summit, apparently by germination and constriction. These are the sporules, and this is the development of the Agarics.
FUNGI.—These are common parasitic plants that start by producing lots of thread-like structures, known as mycelium or spawn. Rounded tubers form on the mycelium; some of these grow quickly, break through an outer layer that remains at the base, and push up a thick stalk, which at its top bears a rounded body that soon expands into the cap or pileus. The gills on the underside consist of parallel plates covered in spores across their entire surface. Some of the cells, visible under a microscope, produce four small cells at their tips, seemingly through a process of germination and constriction. These small cells are the spores, marking the development of the Agarics.
BROILED MUSHROOMS.
(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)
(A Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner Dish.)
1125. INGREDIENTS.—Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter, lemon-juice.
1125. INGREDIENTS.—Mushroom caps, salt and pepper to taste, butter, lemon juice.
[Illustration: BROILED MUSHROOMS.]
[Illustration: GRILLED MUSHROOMS.]
Mode.—Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel and a little salt; cut off a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops: broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot and quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of cooking than the buttons: the latter are better in stews.
Mode.—Clean the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel and a little salt; cut off some of the stems, and peel the caps. Grill them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a very hot plate. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them. Place the dish near the fire, and when the butter has melted, serve very hot and quickly. Medium-sized caps are better for this cooking method than the small ones; the latter are better for stews.
Time.—10 minutes for medium-sized mushrooms.
Time.—10 minutes for medium mushrooms.
Average cost, 1d. each for large mushrooms.
Average cost, 1 penny each for large mushrooms.
Sufficient.—Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms to each person.
Sufficient.—Serve 3 or 4 mushrooms per person.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms are available in September and October; cultivated mushrooms can be found year-round.
[Illustration: MUSHROOMS.]
[Illustration: MUSHROOMS.]
VARIETIES OF THE MUSHROOM.—The common mushroom found in our pastures is the Agaricus campestris of science, and another edible British species is A. Georgii; but A. primulus is affirmed to be the most delicious mushroom. The morel is Morchella esculenta, and Tuber cibarium is the common truffle. There is in New Zealand a long fungus, which grows from the head of a caterpillar, and which forms a horn, as it were, and is called Sphaeria Robertsii.
VARIETIES OF THE MUSHROOM.—The common mushroom we find in our fields is the Agaricus campestris, and another edible British species is A. Georgii; however, A. primulus is known to be the most delicious mushroom. The morel is Morchella esculenta, and Tuber cibarium is the common truffle. In New Zealand, there is a long fungus that grows from the head of a caterpillar, forming a horn-like structure, and it's called Sphaeria Robertsii.
TO PRESERVE MUSHROOMS.
1126. INGREDIENTS.—To each quart of mushrooms, allow 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter.
1126. INGREDIENTS.—For each quart of mushrooms, use 3 oz. of butter, add pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, and clarified butter.
Mode.—Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little lemon-juice; take them out and dry them very carefully in a cloth. Put the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms; when it is melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them remain until their liquor is boiled away, and they have become quite dry, but be careful in not allowing them to stick to the bottom of the stewpan. When done, put them into pots, and pour over the top clarified butter. If wanted for immediate use, they will keep good a few days without being covered over. To re-warm them, put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the butter from them, and they will be ready for use.
Method.—Clean the mushrooms and soak them in cold water with a bit of lemon juice; then take them out and dry them thoroughly with a cloth. Place butter in a saucepan that can hold the mushrooms; once melted, add the mushrooms, lemon juice, and a pinch of pepper and salt. Cook them over low heat until the liquid evaporates and they’re completely dry, being careful not to let them stick to the bottom of the saucepan. When they’re done, transfer them to containers and pour clarified butter over the top. If you need them for immediate use, they’ll stay good for a few days without being covered. To warm them up, put the mushrooms back in a saucepan, strain off the butter, and they’ll be ready to use.
Average cost, 1d. each.
Average cost, 1 day each.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October; cultivated mushrooms may be had at any time.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms are available in September and October; cultivated mushrooms can be found year-round.
LOCALITIES OF THE MUSHROOM.—Mushrooms are to be met with in pastures, woods, and marshes, but are very capricious and uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes being obtained in one season where few or none were to be found in the preceding. They sometimes grow solitary, but more frequently they are gregarious, and rise in a regular circular form. Many species are employed by man as food; but, generally speaking, they are difficult of digestion, and by no means very nourishing. Many of them are also of suspicious qualities. Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell, or colour, as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate; and even the same plant, it is affirmed, may be innocent when young, but become noxious when advanced in age.
LOCALITIES OF THE MUSHROOM.—Mushrooms can be found in pastures, woods, and marshes, but their growth locations are very unpredictable, with many appearing in one season where few or none were found the year before. They can grow alone, but more often, they grow in groups and form a regular circular pattern. Many species are used by people as food; however, in general, they can be hard to digest and not very nourishing. Some of them also have questionable qualities. You can't rely much on their taste, smell, or color, as it heavily depends on the environment where they grow; even the same mushroom can be harmless when young but toxic as it matures.
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
1127. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour, cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.
1127. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint mushroom buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of flour, cream or milk, 1 teaspoon of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of mushroom-buttons; put them into a basin of water, with a little lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a stewpan with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of 1/2 lemon; cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently from 20 to 25 minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are not perfectly tender, stew them for 5 minutes longer, remove every particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve.
Mode.—Trim the ends of the stalks and clean a pint of mushroom buttons. Place them in a bowl of water with a little lemon juice as you finish. Once they’re all ready, drain them by hand to avoid any sediment, and transfer them to a saucepan with fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon. Cover the pan tightly and let the mushrooms simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes. Then, thicken the butter with the specified amount of flour, gradually mix in enough cream or a combination of cream and milk to achieve the right sauce consistency, and add grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms aren’t fully tender, simmer them for an extra 5 minutes, remove any butter floating on top, and serve.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, from 9d. to 2s. per pint.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, from 9 pence to 2 shillings per pint.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October.
In Season.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October.
TO PROCURE MUSHROOMS.—In order to obtain mushrooms at all seasons, several methods of propagation have been had recourse to. It is said that, in some parts of Italy, a species of stone is used for this purpose, which is described as being of two different kinds; the one is found in the chalk hills near Naples, and has a white, porous, stalactical appearance; the other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains near Florence. These stones are kept in cellars, and occasionally moistened with water which has been used in the washing of mushrooms, and are thus supplied with their minute seeds. In this country, gardeners provide themselves with what is called spawn, either from the old manure of cucumber-beds, or purchase it from those whose business it is to propagate it. When thus procured, it is usually made up for sale in quadrils, consisting of numerous white fibrous roots, having a strong smell of mushrooms. This is planted in rows, in a dry situation, and carefully attended to for five or six weeks, when the bed begins to produce, and continues to do so for several months.
TO PROCURE MUSHROOMS.—To obtain mushrooms year-round, various propagation methods are used. It's said that in some parts of Italy, a type of stone serves this purpose, described as having two different kinds; one is found in the chalk hills near Naples and has a white, porous, stalactite-like appearance; the other is hardened turf from volcanic mountains near Florence. These stones are stored in cellars and occasionally moistened with water that has been used to wash mushrooms, providing them with their tiny seeds. In this country, gardeners get what’s called spawn, either from the old manure of cucumber beds or purchase it from those who specialize in its propagation. Once obtained, it’s usually sold in quadrils, consisting of numerous white fibrous roots that have a strong mushroom scent. This is planted in rows in a dry area and carefully tended to for five or six weeks, at which point the bed starts producing and continues to yield for several months.
STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY.
1128. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of mushroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown gravy No. 436, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste.
1128. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of mushroom buttons, 1 pint of brown gravy No. 436, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste.
Mode.—Make a pint of brown gravy by recipe 436; cut nearly all the stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops; put them into a stewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and salt, and serve very hot.
Mode.—Prepare a pint of brown gravy using recipe 436; trim most of the stems off the mushrooms and peel the caps; place them in a saucepan with the gravy, and let them simmer gently for 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Add nutmeg and season with cayenne and salt, and serve very hot.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 9d. to 2s. per pint.
Average cost, 9d. to 2s. per pint.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October.
Seasonable.—Meadow mushrooms in September and October.
ANALYSIS OF FUNGI.—The fungi have been examined chemically with much care, both by MM. Bracannot and Vauquelin, who designate the insoluble spongy matter by the name of fungin, and the soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the fungic acids.
ANALYSIS OF FUNGI.—The fungi have been studied chemically with great attention by Mr. Bracannot and Mr. Vauquelin, who refer to the insoluble spongy material as fungin, while the soluble part is found to contain bolotic and fungic acids.
BAKED SPANISH ONIONS.
1129. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.
1129. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.
Mode.—Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boiling water slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour. Then take them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper separately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer, should the onions be very large. They may be served in their skins, and eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; or they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them.
Mode.—Place the onions, skins on, into a pot of lightly salted boiling water, and let them cook quickly for an hour. Then remove them, wipe them dry, wrap each onion in a separate piece of paper, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer if the onions are very large. They can be served in their skins, eaten with a piece of cold butter and some pepper and salt; or they can be peeled and topped with a rich brown gravy.
Time.—1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake.
Time.—1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake.
Average cost, medium-sized, 2d. each.
Average cost, medium-sized, 2d each.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from September to January.
In season from September to January.
[Illustration: ONION.]
[Illustration: ONION.]
THE GENUS ALLIUM.—The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot, belongs to the genus Allium, which is a numerous species of vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in their properties. In the whole of them the bulb is the most active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an extremely nutritive vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Some dredge on a little flour, but many prefer it without this.
THE GENUS ALLIUM.—The onion, like the leek, garlic, and shallot, is part of the genus Allium, which includes many vegetable species. Each one has a volatile and sharp-tasting component that irritates the thin, transparent membrane of the eyelids, and they all share similar properties. In all of them, the bulb is the most active part, and any one can substitute for another; they are all irritating, stimulating, and blistering. Many people really enjoy onions and consider them a very nutritious vegetable. The Spanish variety is often eaten for dinner; it is simply boiled and then seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Some people sprinkle on a little flour, but many prefer it without.
BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES.
1130. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar.
1130. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar.
Mode.—Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (not tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add the sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and throws out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion of boiling vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle for use.
Method.—Peel and finely chop the onions, then place them in a non-metal stewpan with the water; bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Next, add the sugar and let it simmer gently until the mixture turns nearly black and starts to bubble with smoke. Prepare the specified amount of boiling vinegar, gradually strain the liquid into it, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon until well combined. Once cooled, bottle it for use.
Time.—Altogether, 1 hour.
Duration.—Total: 1 hour.
PROPERTIES OF THE ONION.—The onion is possessed of a white, acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage; phosphoric acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, citrate of lime, and lignine. Of all the species of allium, the onion has the volatile principle in the greatest degree; and hence it is impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of being, by fermentation, converted into vinegar, and, mixed with water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation, an alcoholic liquor. Although used as a common esculent, onions are not suited to all stomachs; there are some who cannot eat them either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which is the best way of using them, as, by the process they then undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil. The pulp of roasted onions, with oil, forms an excellent anodyne and emollient poultice to suppurating tumours.
PROPERTIES OF THE ONION.—The onion contains a white, sharp, volatile oil that has dissolved sulfur, albumen, a lot of uncrystallizable sugar, and mucilage; phosphoric acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, lime citrate, and lignin. Among all types of allium, the onion has the highest amount of volatile compounds, which is why it's impossible to peel the layers without affecting the eyes. The juice is noticeably acidic and can be fermented into vinegar, and when combined with water or beer dregs, it can be distilled into an alcoholic beverage. Though commonly eaten, onions aren’t suitable for everyone’s stomach; some people can’t eat them fried or roasted, while others prefer them boiled, which is the best way to prepare them as it removes their essential oil. The pulp of roasted onions mixed with oil makes a great soothing and softening poultice for inflamed tumors.
STEWED SPANISH ONIONS.
1131—INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or gravy.
1131—INGREDIENTS.—5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or gravy.
Mode.—Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into a stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on the top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer very gently until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the gravy round, and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with a large piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fire or hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy.
Method.—Peel the onions, being careful not to cut too much off the tops or ends, or they will fall apart; place them in a saucepan that can hold them without stacking them on top of each other; add the broth or gravy, and let it simmer very gently until the onions are perfectly tender. Serve them on a plate, pour the gravy around, and enjoy. Instead of broth, you can stew Spanish onions with a large piece of butter: they need to be cooked slowly over a low heat or hot plate, which will create plenty of gravy.
Time.—To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large.
Time.—To simmer in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if it's very large.
Average cost.—medium-sized, 2d. each.
Average cost.—medium-sized, 2d each.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from September to January.
Available from September to January.
Note.—Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast shoulder of mutton.
Note.—Stewed Spanish onions are a popular side dish for roast shoulder of mutton.
ORIGIN OF THE ONION.—This vegetable is thought to have originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe, in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been cultivated. In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman would an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted, perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves.
ORIGIN OF THE ONION.—This vegetable is believed to have originally come from India, then through Egypt, where it was worshiped. From there, it moved to Greece, then to Italy, and eventually spread throughout Europe, where it has been cultivated for ages. In warm climates, it tends to be less sharp and much sweeter than in colder regions; in Spain, it's not uncommon to see a farmer eating an onion like an Englishman would eat an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this country during the winter months, are perfectly sweet when roasted properly, comparable to many preserves.
BOILED PARSNIPS.
1132. INGREDIENTS.—Parsnips; to each gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1132. INGREDIENTS.—Parsnips; for each gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the point of the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should they be very large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them rapidly until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them; take them up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish. This vegetable is usually served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent to table with the latter, a few should be placed alternately with carrots round the dish, as a garnish.
Method.—Wash the parsnips, peel them well, and use the tip of a knife to remove any black spots. If they are very thick, cut them into quarters. Place them in a pot of boiling salted water and cook them quickly until they're tender, which you can check by piercing them with a fork. Once done, drain them and transfer to a serving dish. This vegetable is typically served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef. When serving with the latter, arrange a few parsnips alternately with carrots around the dish as a garnish.
Time.—Large parsnips, 1 to 1-1/2 hour; small ones, 1/2 to 1 hour.
Time.—Large parsnips, 1 to 1.5 hours; small ones, 0.5 to 1 hour.
Average cost, 1d. each.
Average cost, $1 each.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 for each person.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 per person.
Seasonable from October to May.
Available from October to May.
[Illustration: THE PARSNIP.]
[Illustration: THE PARSNIP.]
THE PARSNIP.—This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over Europe, and, in England, is met with very frequently on dry banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state, the root is white, mucilaginous, aromatic, and sweet, with some degree of acrimony: when old, it has been known to cause vertigo. Willis relates that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its roots, and cattle never touch it in its wild state. In domestic economy the parsnip is much used, and is found to be a highly nutritious vegetable. In times of scarcity, an excellent bread has been made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries: a spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been found to be 79.4 of water, 0.9 starch and fibre, 6.1 gum, 5.5 sugar, and 2.1 of albumen.
THE PARSNIP.—This vegetable grows wild in meadows all over Europe and is commonly found in England on dry banks with chalky soil. In its natural state, the root is white, sticky, aromatic, and sweet, with a slight bitterness; when it gets old, it can cause dizziness. Willis mentions that an entire family experienced delirium after eating its roots, and livestock avoid it in the wild. In household cooking, parsnips are widely used and are considered a highly nutritious vegetable. During times of scarcity, they can be made into a great bread, and they can also produce an excellent wine similar to the malmsey from Madeira and the Canaries; a spirit can also be extracted from them in amounts comparable to that from carrots. The makeup of the parsnip root has been analyzed and found to contain 79.4% water, 0.9% starch and fiber, 6.1% gum, 5.5% sugar, and 2.1% albumen.
BOILED GREEN PEAS.
1133. INGREDIENTS.—Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 small teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1133. INGREDIENTS.—Green peas; for every 1/2 gallon of water, add 1 small teaspoon of moist sugar and 1 heaped tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should be young, and not gathered or shelled long before it is dressed. Shell the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put them into a saucepan with plenty of fast-boiling water, to which salt and moist sugar have been added in the above proportion; let them boil quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and be careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour them into a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centre of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut. Many cooks boil a small bunch of mint with the peas, or garnish them with it, by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should the peas be very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of soda may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must be very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have a smashed and broken appearance. With young peas, there is not the slightest occasion to use it.
Mode.—This tasty vegetable should be enjoyed when it’s young and not picked or shelled too long before cooking. Shell the peas, wash them well with cold water, and drain them. Then, place them in a saucepan with plenty of fast-boiling water, adding salt and moist sugar in the right amounts. Let them boil quickly over a lively fire with the saucepan lid off, making sure the smoke doesn’t get in. When they’re tender, pour them into a colander. Transfer them to a hot serving dish, and in the middle of the peas, add a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Many cooks boil a small bunch of mint with the peas, or garnish them with it by boiling a few sprigs in a separate saucepan. If the peas are very old and hard to get a good color, you can add a tiny pinch of soda to the water before cooking them, but use it sparingly, as it can make the peas look smashed and broken. With young peas, there’s no need to use it at all.
Time.—Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such as marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; larger varieties, like marrowfats, etc., 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 30 minutes.
Average cost, when cheapest, 6d. per peck; when first in season, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per peck.
Average cost, at its lowest, 6 pence per peck; at the start of the season, 1 shilling to 1 shilling 6 pence per peck.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—Use 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
ORIGIN OF THE PEA.—All the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have originated from the Pisum sativum, a native of the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of Pisum arvense. The Everlasting Pea is Lathyrus latifolius, an old favourite in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it. In this country the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of herbage, plants, and roots.
ORIGIN OF THE PEA.—All the types of garden peas that we grow today come from Pisum sativum, which is native to southern Europe; while field peas are varieties of Pisum arvense. The Everlasting Pea is Lathyrus latifolius, a long-time favorite in flower gardens. It's said to produce a lot of honey for bees, which really love it. In this country, peas have been cultivated for ages, but their popularity seems to have declined since other herbs, plants, and roots became more widely available.
GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE.
1134. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour.
1134. INGREDIENTS.—2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of flour.
Mode.—Shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put them into cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir them about until they are well covered with the butter; drain them in a colander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; dredge over them a little flour, stir the peas well, and moisten them with boiling water; boil them quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, or until there is no liquor remaining. Dip a small lump of sugar into some water, that it may soon melt; put it with the peas, to which add 1/2 teaspoonful of salt. Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, work it together with a teaspoonful of flour; and add this to the peas, which should be boiling when it is put in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, when the peas are nicely thickened, dress them high in the dish, and serve.
Mode.—Shell enough fresh peas to fill 2 quarts; place them in cold water with the mentioned amount of butter, and stir until they are well coated with the butter. Drain them in a colander and transfer them to a stewpan, adding the parsley and onions. Sprinkle a little flour over the mixture, stir the peas well, and moisten them with boiling water. Cook them quickly over a large flame for 20 minutes, or until there's no liquid left. Dip a small piece of sugar in water so it melts quickly; add it to the peas along with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, mix it with a teaspoon of flour, and add it to the boiling peas. Keep shaking the stewpan, and when the peas have thickened nicely, pile them high on a dish and serve.
Time.—Altogether, 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. per peck.
Time.—Total time, 45 minutes. Average cost, 6p. per peck.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
VARIETIES OF THE PEA.—The varieties of the Pea are numerous; but they may be divided into two classes—those grown for the ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state. The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in part rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those of the agriculturist. The grey varieties are the early grey, the late grey, and the purple grey; to which some add the Marlborough grey and the horn grey. The white varieties grown in fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, the common white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties.
VARIETIES OF THE PEA.—There are many types of peas, but they can be grouped into two main categories—those grown for harvested seeds and those harvested when green. The cultivation of the latter is mostly found near large cities and is more related to gardening than farming. The grey types include early grey, late grey, and purple grey; some also include Marlborough grey and horn grey. The white types grown in fields are pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, common white (or Suffolk), and other Suffolk varieties.
STEWED GREEN PEAS.
1135. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
1135. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of peas, 1 head of lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; put these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with no more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it a well-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When the peas, &c., are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, do not allow them to boil.
Mode.—Shell the peas, and slice the onion and lettuce; put them in a saucepan with the butter, pepper, and salt, using just enough water that clings to the lettuce from washing. Cook everything very gently for a little over an hour; then stir in a well-beaten egg and about 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar. When the peas and other ingredients are nice and thick, serve them, but after adding the egg, do not let them boil.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. per peck.
Time.—1 hour and 15 minutes. Average cost, 6 pence per peck.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
Seasonable from June to the end of August.
[Illustration: GREEN PEA.]
[Illustration: GREEN PEA.]
THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.—The well-known sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in a flower-garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them, and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey. They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and thirst for a long time. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable flavour, and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have served as an article of food. When well boiled, a fork will pass through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts.
THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.—The well-known sweet-pea makes a lovely covering for a trellis or lattice in a flower garden. Its bright and fragrant flowers, along with its climbing nature, make it especially suited for this purpose. The wood-pea, or heath-pea, grows in the heaths of Scotland, and the Highlanders there are very fond of them; they dry and chew them to enhance the flavor of their whiskey. They also believe these peas are beneficial for chest problems and claim that consuming them allows them to endure hunger and thirst for extended periods. The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat reminiscent of licorice root, and when boiled, they have a pleasant flavor and are nutritious. In times of scarcity, they've been used as food. When well boiled, a fork can easily pierce them; when slightly dried, they can be roasted, and in Holland and Flanders, they're served up like chestnuts.
BAKED POTATOES.
1136. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes.
1136. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes.
[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN.]
[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN.]
Mode.—Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash them in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin of a baked potato is by many persons considered the better part of it. Put them into a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning them three or four times whilst they are cooking. Serve them in a napkin immediately they are done, as, if kept a long time in the oven, they have a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted before the fire, in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must be done very slowly. Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter.
Mode.—Select large potatoes that are as uniform in size as possible; wash them in lukewarm water and scrub them thoroughly, as many people consider the browned skin of a baked potato to be the best part. Place them in a moderate oven and bake for about 2 hours, turning them three or four times while they cook. Serve them in a napkin right after they are done, because if left in the oven too long, they become shriveled. Potatoes can also be roasted in front of the fire in an American oven; however, they must be cooked very slowly this way. Don't forget to serve a piece of cold butter with them.
Time.—Large potatoes, in a hot oven 1-1/2 hour to 2 hours; in a cool oven, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Time.—Big potatoes, in a hot oven for 1.5 to 2 hours; in a cool oven, 2 to 2.5 hours.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, 4 shillings per bushel.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 to each person.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 per person.
Seasonable all the year, but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season.
Good to eat all year round, but not great right before and during the new potato season.
POTATO-SUGAR.—This sugary substance, found in the tubers of potatoes, is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle, and has not yet been crystallized. It resembles the sugar of grapes, has a very sweet taste, and may be used for making sweetmeats, and as a substitute for honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes, yielding eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a half pounds of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made, as good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from cane-sugar. A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, which resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour as if it were charged with the odour of violets or raspberries. In France this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively, and five hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of spirit, the pulp being given to cattle.
POTATO-SUGAR.—This sugary substance found in potato tubers is produced in the form of syrup or treacle and hasn't been crystallized yet. It resembles grape sugar, has a very sweet taste, and can be used for making candies and as a substitute for honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes, which yield eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a half pounds of sugar. In Russia, it is widely produced, being of good quality, although less thick than the treacle made from cane sugar. A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, resembling brandy but milder, with a flavor suggesting it carries the scent of violets or raspberries. In France, this production is fairly common, with five hundred pounds of tubers generating twelve quarts of spirit, while the leftover pulp is fed to cattle.
TO BOIL POTATOES.
1137. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1137. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 potatoes; for every 1/2 gallon of water, add 1 heaped tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all the eyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold water. Put them into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, with salt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take them up the moment they feel soft through; for if they are left in the water afterwards, they become waxy or watery. Drain away the water, put the saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid partially uncovered, to allow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry, and do not allow them to get burnt. Their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort, should be perfectly mealy and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality and size, that it is difficult to give the exact time for boiling; they should be attentively watched, and probed with a fork, to ascertain when they are cooked. Send them to table quickly, and very hot, and with an opening in the cover of the dish, that a portion of the steam may evaporate, and not fall back on the potatoes.
Method.—Select potatoes that are the same size, peel them, remove all the eyes and blemishes, and as you peel them, place them into cold water. Put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them, add salt as needed, and let them boil gently until they are tender. Check if they are done by piercing them with a fork, and remove them as soon as they feel soft; leaving them in the water too long will make them waxy or soggy. Drain the water, place the saucepan near the heat with the lid slightly ajar to let the steam escape, and allow the potatoes to dry completely, being careful not to let them burn. The excess moisture will evaporate, and if the potatoes are of good quality, they should be fluffy and dry. Since potatoes can vary greatly in quality and size, it’s hard to specify an exact boiling time; they should be watched closely and tested with a fork to determine when they are cooked. Serve them quickly and while very hot, with a small opening in the dish's lid to let some steam escape and prevent it from falling back on the potatoes.
Time.—Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the water boils; large ones, 1/2 hour to 35 minutes.
Time.—Medium-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the water starts boiling; large ones, 30 to 35 minutes.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, £0.20 per bushel.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable all the year, but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season.
Good all year round, but not ideal just before and during the new potato season.
Note.—To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put a folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them, keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This will absorb the moisture, and keep them hot some time without spoiling.
Note.—To keep potatoes hot after draining the water, place a folded cloth or flannel (designated for this purpose) on top of them, leaving the saucepan lid slightly ajar. This will absorb moisture and keep them warm for a while without ruining them.
THE POTATO.—The potato belongs to the family of the Solanaceae, the greater number of which inhabit the tropics, and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic zones. The whole of the family are suspicious; a great number are narcotic, and many are deleterious. The roots partake of the properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more active. The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and nutritive, as in those of the potato. The leaves are generally narcotic; but they lose this principle in boiling, as is the case with the Solanum nigrum, which are used as a vegetable when cooked.
THE POTATO.—The potato is part of the family Solanaceae, most of which are found in tropical regions, while the rest are spread across temperate areas in both hemispheres, but they do not reach the Arctic or Antarctic zones. The entire family can be suspicious; many are narcotic, and several are harmful. The roots share the properties of the plants and can sometimes be even more potent. The tubers of those that produce them are starchy and nutritious, like those of the potato. The leaves are generally narcotic, but they lose this property when boiled, as seen with Solanum nigrum, which can be eaten as a vegetable when cooked.
TO BOIL POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS.
1138. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1138. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 potatoes; for every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked in perfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on. In Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better understood than in any country, they are always served so. Wash the potatoes well, and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt from them; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may all be as nearly the same size as possible. When thoroughly cleansed, fill the saucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with cold water, salted in the above proportion: they are more quickly boiled with a small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury than when drowned in it. Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let them simmer gently until tender. Ascertain when they are done by probing them with a fork; then pour off the water, uncover the saucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire, taking care not to let them burn. Peel them quickly, put them in a very hot vegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin, and serve very quickly. After potatoes are cooked, they should never be entirely covered up, as the steam, instead of escaping, falls down on them, and makes them watery and insipid. In Ireland they are usually served up with the skins on, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest.
Mode.—To prepare this healthy and tasty vegetable perfectly, it should be boiled and served with the skin on. In Ireland, where they really know how to cook potatoes, they always do it this way. Wash the potatoes thoroughly, using a clean scrubbing brush if needed to remove any dirt, and try to choose potatoes that are roughly the same size. Once cleaned, fill the saucepan halfway with them and cover the potatoes just with cold water, seasoned with salt as mentioned above: they boil faster with less water and taste better than when submerged. Bring them to a boil, then move the pan to the side of the stove and let them simmer gently until they're tender. Check for doneness by poking them with a fork; then drain the water, uncover the saucepan, and let the potatoes dry on the side of the fire, making sure they don't burn. Peel them quickly, place them in a very hot serving dish, with or without a napkin, and serve immediately. After cooking, potatoes should never be completely covered, as the steam will fall back on them, making them soggy and bland. In Ireland, they are typically served with the skins on, and a small plate is placed next to each guest.
Time.—Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 20 to 25 minutes after the water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes to 3/4 hour, or longer; 5 minutes to dry them.
Time.—Medium-sized potatoes, with their skins on, should be cooked for 20 to 25 minutes after the water boils; large potatoes need 25 minutes to 45 minutes, or longer; then let them dry for 5 minutes.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Average cost, 4 shillings per bushel. Enough for 6 people.
Seasonable all the year, but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season.
Available all year round, but not ideal just before and during the new potato season.
ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO.—Next to the cereals, the potato is the most valuable plant for the production of human food. Its tubers, according to analysis conducted by Mr. Fromberg, in the laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland, contain the following ingredients:—75.52 per cent. of water, 15.72 starch, O.55 dextrine, 3.3 of impure saccharine matter, and 3.25 of fibre with coagulated albumen. In a dried state the tuber contains 64.2 per cent, of starch, 2.25 of dextrine, 13.47 of impure saccharine matter, 5.77 of caseine, gluten, and albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and 13.31 of fibre with coagulated albumen.
ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO.—After cereals, the potato is the most valuable plant for producing food for humans. According to an analysis by Mr. Fromberg at the Agricultural Chemical Association lab in Scotland, its tubers contain the following ingredients: 75.52% water, 15.72% starch, 0.55% dextrin, 3.3% impure sugar matter, and 3.25% fiber with coagulated albumin. When dried, the tuber contains 64.2% starch, 2.25% dextrin, 13.47% impure sugar matter, 5.77% casein, gluten, and albumin, 1% fat, and 13.31% fiber with coagulated albumin.
TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.
1139. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1139. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes; for every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as they are never good when they have been out of the ground some time. Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them into boiling water salted in the above proportion. Let them boil until tender; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the water away from them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the saucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; pile the potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of butter placed in the midst of them.
Mode.—Don't dig up the potatoes too far in advance of cooking them, as they never taste good if they've been out of the ground for a while. Wash them well, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and place them into boiling salted water. Let them boil until they're tender; check with a fork, and once they're done, pour the water off. Allow them to sit by the fire with the saucepan lid slightly ajar, and when the potatoes are completely dry, transfer them to a hot serving dish with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Stack the potatoes over the butter and serve. If the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel, and serve them as described above, with a piece of butter placed in the center.
Time.—1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to the size.
Time.—15 to 30 minutes, depending on the size.
Average cost, in full season, 1d. per lb.
Average cost, during the entire season, 1d. per lb.
Sufficient.—Allow 3 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient.—Plan for 3 lbs. for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in May and June, but may be had, forced, in March.
Available in May and June, but can be obtained, cultivated, in March.
POTATO STARCH.—This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline appearance, and is inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in cold, but readily soluble in boiling water. It is on this starch that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate constitution. It may be used in the form of arrow-root, and eaten with milk or sugar. For pastry of all kinds it is more light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of wheat. In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies, and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces. It accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children, for whom it is well adapted; and it is an aliment that cannot be too generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as its cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are equal, if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae; as, salep, tapioca, sago, and arrow-root.
POTATO STARCH.—This starch has a beautiful white crystalline look, is odorless, soft to the touch, insoluble in cold water, but easily dissolves in boiling water. The nutritional benefits of the tubers depend on this starch. As a food, it's well-suited for people who are sick and those with delicate health. It can be used like arrowroot and eaten with milk or sugar. For all types of pastries, it's lighter and easier to digest than those made with wheat flour. In desserts, it helps make creams and jellies, and in cooking, it can be used to thicken soups and sauces. It works well for the digestion of children and is a food that can be widely used thanks to its health benefits, affordability, and ease of storage, which are on par, if not better, than many praised exotic starches like salep, tapioca, sago, and arrowroot.
TO STEAM POTATOES.
1140. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes; boiling water.
1140. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes; hot water.
Mode.—This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue, particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very convenient. Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they are peeled, then put them into a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepan of boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes, according to the size and sort. When a fork goes easily through them, they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly.
Method.—This way of cooking potatoes is currently very popular, especially when you need to prepare a lot at once, as it’s so convenient. Peel the potatoes and place them in cold water as you go. Then, put them in a steamer. Set the steamer over a pot of boiling water and steam the potatoes for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on their size and type. When a fork goes through them easily, they’re ready. Remove them, plate, and serve right away.
Time.—20 to 40 minutes. Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Time.—20 to 40 minutes. Average cost, 4 shillings per bushel.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 large potatoes to each person.
Sufficient.—Give 2 large potatoes per person.
Seasonable all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are in season.
Available all year round, but not as good while new potatoes are in season.
USES OF THE POTATO.—Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour milk form a sort of cheese, which is made in Saxony; and, when kept in close vessels, may be preserved for several years. It is generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled is injurious; and as instances are recorded where cattle having drunk it were seriously affected, it may be well to err on the safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose. Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green, are very unwholesome. Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will clean linen as well as soap; and it is well known that the berries of the S. saponaceum are used in Peru for the same purpose.
USES OF THE POTATO. — Potatoes boiled and mashed with sour milk create a type of cheese made in Saxony, which can be stored in airtight containers for several years. It's commonly believed that the water used to boil potatoes is harmful; there are documented cases where cattle that drank it suffered serious issues, so it's wise to play it safe and avoid using it in food. Potatoes that have been exposed to air and turned green are very unhealthy. Cadet de Vaux claims that potatoes can clean linen as effectively as soap, and it’s well known that the berries of the S. saponaceum are used in Peru for the same purpose.
HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES.
1141. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb. allow 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz. of butter, milk.
1141. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold potatoes; for each pound, use 2 tablespoons of flour, 2 tablespoons of chopped onions, 1 ounce of butter, and milk.
Mode.—Mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps; stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to moisten them well; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them out of the mould, and serve.
Mode.—Mash the potatoes with a fork until there are no lumps; mix in the other ingredients, and add enough milk to moisten everything well; press the potatoes into a mold, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned, which will take about 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Turn them out of the mold and serve.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
POTATO BREAD.—The manner in which this is made is very simple. The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the following manner:—A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved, and so constructed that, by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove, the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of the mould. The frame containing the farina may be almost immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan; because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by the heat, it will speedily admit of being safely handled: it must not, however, be fried too hastily. It will then eat very palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings, like tapioca, or might be used like the cassada-cake, for, when well buttered and toasted, it will be found an excellent accompaniment to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and an excellent cake, or scon, obtained.
POTATO BREAD.—Making this bread is quite straightforward. The sticky quality of potato flour prevents it from being baked or kneaded on its own, so it needs to be mixed with wheat flour or meal. However, you can make it into cakes like this: a small wooden frame, almost square, is placed on a pan similar to a frying pan and is grooved. It's designed so that, using a presser or lid placed into the groove, the cake is shaped according to the size of the mold. The frame can be removed almost immediately after the mold is formed on the pan because the heat will quickly give the developing cake some structure, allowing it to be handled safely. Just be careful not to fry it too quickly. Once cooked, it tastes delicious and can be soaked to make puddings like tapioca, or used similarly to cassava cake; when well buttered and toasted, it makes an excellent addition to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes are often mashed and mixed with flour or oatmeal to create a wonderful cake, or scone.
FRIED POTATOES (French Fashion).
Fried Potatoes (French Style).
1142. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes, hot butter or clarified dripping, salt.
1142. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes, hot butter or clarified fat, salt.
Mode.—Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the same size as possible; make some butter or dripping quite hot in a frying-pan; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nice brown. When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them on a cloth before the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve very hot, after sprinkling them with salt. These are delicious with rump-steak, and, in France, are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish. The remains of cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but the slices must be cut a little thicker.
Method.—Peel and slice the potatoes into thin pieces, trying to keep them as uniform in size as possible; heat some butter or oil in a frying pan until it's hot; add the potatoes and fry them until both sides are a nice golden brown. Once they're crispy and cooked, remove them and place them on a cloth in front of the fire to drain off the grease, then serve them hot, sprinkled with salt. These taste great with rump steak, and in France, they are often served this way for breakfast. You can also fry up leftover cold potatoes using this method, but slice them a bit thicker.
Time.—Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes.
Time.—Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Sufficient,—6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons.
Sufficient,—6 sliced potatoes for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
A GERMAN METHOD OF COOKING POTATOES.
1143. INGREDIENTS.—8 to 10 middling-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
1143. INGREDIENTS.—8 to 10 medium-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 2 tablespoons of vinegar.
Mode.—Put the butter and flour into a stewpan; stir over the fire until the butter is of a nice brown colour, and add the broth and vinegar; peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices, lay them in the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender, which will be in from 10 to 15 minutes, and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered with the potatoes is an improvement.
Mode.—Place the butter and flour in a saucepan; stir over the heat until the butter turns a nice brown color, then add the broth and vinegar. Peel and cut the potatoes into long, thin slices, add them to the gravy, and let them simmer gently until they're tender, which should take about 10 to 15 minutes. Serve very hot. Adding a bay leaf while the potatoes simmer enhances the flavor.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes.
Time.—10 to 15 mins.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
PRESERVING POTATOES.—In general, potatoes are stored or preserved in pits, cellars, pies, or camps; but, whatever mode is adopted, it is essential that the tubers be perfectly dry; otherwise, they will surely rot; and a few rotten potatoes will contaminate a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, consists of a trench, lined and covered with straw; the potatoes in it being piled in the shape of a house roof, to the height of about three feet. The camps are shallow pits, filled and ridged up in a similar manner, covered up with the excavated mould of the pit. In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved in boxes, in houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, to a temperature one or two degrees above the freezing-point, by stoves. To keep potatoes for a considerable time, the best way is to place them in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar: there, the temperature being always below that of active vegetation, they will not sprout; while, not being above one or two degrees below the freezing-point, the tubers will not be frostbitten. Another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop, and keep the roots buried in earth; a third mode is to destroy the vital principle, by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding; a fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of temperature will reach them; and thus, being without air, they will remain upwards of a year without vegetating.
PRESERVING POTATOES.—In general, potatoes are stored or preserved in pits, cellars, piles, or camps; but whatever method is used, it's crucial that the tubers are completely dry; otherwise, they will definitely rot, and a few rotten potatoes can spoil an entire batch. The pile, as it's known, consists of a trench lined and covered with straw; the potatoes are stacked in a shape resembling a house roof, reaching about three feet high. The camps are shallow pits filled and shaped similarly, covered with the soil that was dug out of the pit. In Russia and Canada, potatoes are kept in boxes, in houses or cellars, sometimes heated to a temperature one or two degrees above freezing using stoves. To store potatoes for an extended period, the best method is to place them in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice cellar: there, the temperature stays below that of active growth, preventing sprouting, while remaining just one or two degrees below freezing, so the tubers don’t get frostbite. Another method is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop and keep the roots buried in soil. A third method is to kill the vital functions by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding; a fourth is to bury them deep in dry soil so that no temperature change reaches them; in this way, without air, they can remain for over a year without sprouting.
POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
1144. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes, salt and water; to every 6 potatoes allow 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
1144. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes, salt, and water; for every 6 potatoes, use 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoons of gravy, and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.
Mode.—Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and water by recipe No. 1138; when they are done, drain them, let them cool; then peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices: if these are too thin, they would break in the sauce. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pepper, salt, gravy, and parsley; mix these ingredients well together, put in the potatoes, shake them two or three times, that they may be well covered with the sauce, and, when quite hot through, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve.
Mode.—Wash the potatoes thoroughly and boil them in salted water according to recipe No. 1138; once they're cooked, drain them and let them cool. Then peel and slice the potatoes into thick pieces; if they're too thin, they'll break in the sauce. Place the butter in a saucepan along with the pepper, salt, gravy, and parsley; mix these ingredients well. Add the potatoes, shaking them a couple of times so they're nicely coated with the sauce. When they're heated through, squeeze in the lemon juice, and serve.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them to heat in the sauce.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes to boil the potatoes; 10 minutes for them to heat in the sauce.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, 4 shillings per bushel.
Sufficient for 3 persons. Seasonable all the year.
Sufficient for 3 people. Available year-round.
MASHED POTATOES.
1145. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes; to every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste.
1145. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes; for every pound of mashed potatoes, use 1 ounce of butter, 2 tablespoons of milk, and salt to taste.
Mode.—Boil the potatoes in their skins; when done, drain them, and let them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire; then peel them, and, as they are peeled, put them into a clean saucepan, and with a large fork beat them to a light paste; add butter, milk, and salt in the above proportion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire. When thoroughly hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards over the potatoes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed in this manner, they may be browned at the top with a salamander, or before the fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn them out, and brown them in the oven: this is a pretty mode of serving, but it makes them heavy. In whatever way they are sent to table, care must be taken to have them quite free from lumps.
Method.—Boil the potatoes with their skins on; once cooked, drain them and let them dry thoroughly by the fire; then peel them, and as you peel, place them into a clean saucepan, and use a large fork to mash them into a light paste; add butter, milk, and salt as specified above, and mix all the ingredients well over the heat. Once heated through, serve them lightly, and run the fork backwards over the potatoes to create a rough surface before serving. When prepared this way, they can be browned on top with a salamander or in front of the fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into molds, then turn them out and brown them in the oven: this is an attractive way to serve them, but it can make them heavy. However they're presented, ensure they are completely free of lumps.
Time.—From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.
Time.—It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to boil the potatoes.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Sufficient,—1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons.
Sufficient,—1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Available any time.
PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin-mashed Potatoes.
PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin Mashed Potatoes.
1146. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1/4 pint of good broth or stock, 2 oz. of butter.
1146. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of mashed potatoes, use 1/4 pint of good broth or stock and 2 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Boil the potatoes, well drain them, and pound them smoothly in a mortar, or beat them up with a fork; add the stock or broth, and rub the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepan with the butter; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot, and it will then be ready to serve. A puree should be rather thinner than mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the latter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for ragoûts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly, placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the centre. After having browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean, and the ragout or fricassée poured in.
Mode.—Boil the potatoes, drain them well, and mash them until smooth in a bowl, or beat them with a fork; add the stock or broth, and push the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepan with the butter; stir it well over the heat until it's thoroughly warm, and then it will be ready to serve. A puree should be a bit thinner than mashed potatoes and is a delicious side dish for lightly broiled mutton cutlets. You can use cream or milk instead of broth when the latter isn't available. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for stews instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes a bit thick, placing them on a dish, and making a well in the center. After browning the potatoes in the oven, clean the dish, and pour in the stew or fricassee.
Time.—About 1/2 hour to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm the purée.
Time.—About 30 minutes to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to heat the purée.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, 4 shillings per bushel.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 lb. of cooked potatoes for 3 persons.
Sufficient.—Use 1 lb. of cooked potatoes for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
[Illustration: SWEET POTATO.]
[Illustration: Sweet Potato.]
VARIETIES OF THE POTATO.—These are very numerous. "They differ," says an authority, "in their leaves and bulk of haulm; in the colour of the skin of the tubers; in the colour of the interior, compared with that of the skin; in the time of ripening; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery; in tasting agreeably or disagreeably; in cooking readily or tediously; in the length of the subterraneous stolones to which the tubers are attached; in blossoming or not blossoming; and finally, in the soil which they prefer." The earliest varieties grown in fields are,—the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and the Early Champion. This last is the most generally cultivated round London: it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is but rarely eaten in Britain; but in America it is often served at table, and is there very highly esteemed.
VARIETIES OF THE POTATO.—There are many different types. "They vary," says an expert, "in their leaves and the amount of stems; in the color of the skin of the tubers; in the color of the interior compared to the skin; in the time it takes to mature; in being starchy, gooey, or watery; in taste - pleasant or unpleasant; in how easily they cook or how long they take; in the length of the underground stolons to which the tubers are attached; in whether they bloom or not; and finally, in the type of soil they prefer." The earliest varieties grown in fields include the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and the Early Champion. The Early Champion is the most widely grown around London: it is both dry and robust. The sweet potato is rarely eaten in Britain; however, in America, it is often served and is highly valued there.
POTATO RISSOLES.
1147. INGREDIENTS.—Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; when liked, a very little minced parsley, egg, and bread crumbs.
1147. INGREDIENTS.—Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; if preferred, a tiny bit of minced parsley, an egg, and breadcrumbs.
[Illustration: POTATO RISSOLES.]
[Illustration: Potato Risoles.]
Mode.—Boil and mash the potatoes by recipe No. 1145; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and, when liked, a little minced parsley. Roll the potatoes into small balls, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard for about 10 minutes; let them drain before the fire, dish them on a napkin, and serve.
Mode.—Boil and mash the potatoes according to recipe No. 1145; add some pepper and salt to taste, and, if you like, a bit of chopped parsley. Roll the potatoes into small balls, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot lard for about 10 minutes; let them drain in front of the fire, arrange them on a napkin, and serve.
Time,—10 minutes to fry the rissoles.
Time,—10 minutes to fry the patties.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—The flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased by adding finely-minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, when these are liked.
Note.—The flavor of these rissoles can be greatly enhanced by adding finely minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, if desired.
QUALITIES OF POTATOES.—In making a choice from the many varieties of potatoes which are everywhere found, the best way is to get a sample and taste them, and then fix upon the kind which best pleases your palate. The Shaw is one of the most esteemed of the early potatoes for field culture; and the Kidney and Bread-fruit are also good sorts. The Lancashire Pink is also a good potato, and is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of Liverpool. As late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or Red-apple stands very high in favour.
QUALITIES OF POTATOES.—When choosing from the many varieties of potatoes available, the best approach is to get a sample and taste them, then decide on the type that you enjoy the most. The Shaw is one of the most highly regarded early potatoes for field cultivation; the Kidney and Bread-fruit varieties are also good options. The Lancashire Pink is a solid choice as well and is widely grown around Liverpool. For late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or Red-apple is highly favored.
POTATO SNOW.
1148. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes, salt, and water.
1148. INGREDIENTS.—Potatoes, salt, and water.
Mode.—Choose large white potatoes, as free from spots as possible; boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender; drain and dry them thoroughly by the side of the fire, and peel them. Put a hot dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to this dish; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall, and serve as hot as possible.
Mode.—Select large white potatoes that are as free from blemishes as possible; boil them in their skins with salt and water until they’re completely tender; drain and dry them thoroughly next to the fire, then peel them. Place a hot dish in front of the fire, and press the potatoes through a coarse sieve onto this dish; avoid touching them afterward, or the flakes will fall, and serve them as hot as you can.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes to boil the potatoes.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Average cost, 4s. per bushel.
Sufficient,—6 potatoes for 3 persons.
Enough,—6 potatoes for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
THE POTATO AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.—This valuable esculent, next to wheat, is of the greatest importance in the eye of the political economist. From no other crop that can be cultivated does the public derive so much benefit; and it has been demonstrated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the number of people that can be fed from an acre of wheat.
THE POTATO AS A FOOD SOURCE.—This valuable food, second only to wheat, holds great significance for political economists. The public benefits immensely from no other crop that can be grown; studies have shown that one acre of potatoes can feed twice as many people as an acre of wheat.
TO DRESS SALSIFY.
1149. INGREDIENTS.—Salsify; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
1149. INGREDIENTS.—Salsify; for every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaped tablespoon of salt, 1 oz. of butter, and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.
Mode.—Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their outside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they are peeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a little lemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water, with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let them boil rapidly until tender; try them with a fork; and, when it penetrates easily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a good white sauce or French melted butter.
Mode.—Gently scrape the roots to remove just the outer peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and as you peel them, place them in water mixed with a little lemon juice to prevent browning. Boil them in water with salt, butter, and lemon juice in the proportions mentioned, and let them cook quickly until they're tender; check with a fork—if it goes in easily, they’re done. Drain the salsify and serve with a nice white sauce or French melted butter.
Time.—30 to 50 minutes. Seasonable in winter.
Duration.—30 to 50 minutes. Suitable in winter.
Note.—This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter of a nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served with fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt sprinkled over the salsify.
Note.—This vegetable can also be boiled, sliced, and fried in batter until it’s a nice brown. When they’re crispy and have a good color, they should be served with fried parsley in the center of the dish, and a little fine salt sprinkled over the salsify.
SALSIFY.—This esculent is, for the sake of its roots, cultivated in gardens. It belongs to the Composite class of flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and most uniform in structure, but there is also a great similarity existing in the properties of the plants of which it is composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or stimulant in their medical virtues.
SALSIFY.—This edible plant is grown in gardens primarily for its roots. It belongs to the Composite family of flowers, which is the largest group in the plant kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and consistently structured, but the plants within it also share many similar properties. Generally, all composite flowers have tonic or stimulant effects in terms of their medicinal qualities.
BOILED SEA-KALE.
1150. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1150. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
[Illustration: BOILED SEA-KALE.]
[Illustration: Boiled Sea Kale.]
Mode.—Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and tie it into small bunches; put it into boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain, untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, a little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy: it will then take about 1/2 hour altogether.
Mode.—Thoroughly wash the kale, remove any damaged parts, and tie it into small bunches. Place it in boiling salted water as mentioned above, and let it cook quickly until tender. Take it out, drain it, untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce, drizzling a little over the kale. Sea-kale can also be parboiled and cooked in a nice brown gravy: this will take about 30 minutes in total.
Time.—15 minutes; when liked very thoroughly done, allow an extra 5 minutes.
Time.—15 minutes; if you prefer it really well done, add an extra 5 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.
Average cost, during peak season, 9d. per basket.
Sufficient.—Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—Plan for 12 servings for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from February to June.
Available from February to June.
[Illustration: SEA-KALE.]
[Illustration: Sea Kale.]
SEA-KALE.—This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and grows on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in the neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general use, it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated, and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculents indigenous to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite, easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great amount of saccharine matter.
SEA-KALE.—This plant is part of the Asparagus family and grows on coastal shores, especially in the West of England and around Dublin. Although it is now widely used, it didn't become popular until 1794. It's easy to grow and is considered one of the most valuable native vegetables in Britain. As a vegetable, it boosts the appetite, is easy to digest, and is nutritious. It's so light that even the most delicate individuals can eat it without any issues. The flowers are a favorite spot for bees, as their petals are full of sugar.
BOILED SALAD.
1151. INGREDIENTS.—2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans, lettuce, and endive.
1151. INGREDIENTS.—2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans, lettuce, and endive.
[Illustration: FRENCH BEANS.]
[Illustration: Green Beans.]
[Illustration: CHERVIL.]
[Illustration: CHERVIL.]
Mode.—Boil the celery and beans separately until tender, and cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long. Put these into a salad-bowl or dish; pour over either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and garnish the dish with a little lettuce finely chopped, blanched endive, or a few tufts of boiled cauliflower. This composition, if less agreeable than vegetables in their raw state, is more wholesome; for salads, however they may be compounded, when eaten uncooked, prove to some people indigestible. Tarragon, chervil, burnet, and boiled onion, may be added to the above salad with advantage, as also slices of cold meat, poultry, or fish.
Mode.—Boil the celery and beans separately until they’re tender, then cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long. Place these in a salad bowl or dish; drizzle with either sauce No. 506, 507, or 508, and garnish with some finely chopped lettuce, blanched endive, or a few pieces of boiled cauliflower. This dish, while not as pleasing as fresh vegetables, is healthier; because for some people, salads made with raw ingredients can be hard to digest. You can also enhance the salad by adding tarragon, chervil, burnet, and boiled onion, along with slices of cold meat, poultry, or fish.
Seasonable from July to October.
Seasonal from July to October.
ACETARIOUS VEGETABLES.—By the term Acetarious vegetables, is expressed a numerous class of plants, of various culture and habit, which are principally used as salads, pickles, and condiments. They are to be considered rather as articles of comparative luxury than as ordinary food, and are more desirable for their coolness, or their agreeable flavour, than for their nutritive powers.
ACETARIOUS VEGETABLES.—The term Acetarious vegetables refers to a large group of plants, grown in different ways and environments, that are mainly used as salads, pickles, and condiments. They are seen more as luxury items than everyday food, and are preferred for their freshness and pleasant taste rather than their nutritional value.
CAULIFLOWER.—The cauliflower is less indigestible than the cabbage; it possesses a most agreeable flavour, and is sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the wealthy. It is a wholesome vegetable, but should be eaten moderately, as it induces flatulence. Persons of weak constitutions and delicate stomachs should abstain from cauliflower as much as possible. They may be prepared in a variety of ways; and, in selecting them, the whitest should be chosen; those tinged with green or yellow being of indifferent quality.
CAULIFLOWER.—Cauliflower is easier to digest than cabbage; it has a pleasant flavor and is refined enough to be served in upscale dining. It's a healthy vegetable but should be eaten in moderation, as it can cause gas. People with sensitive stomachs or weak constitutions should avoid cauliflower as much as they can. It can be prepared in many different ways, and when choosing cauliflower, you should pick the ones that are the whitest; those with green or yellow spots are of lower quality.
SUMMER SALAD.
1152. INGREDIENTS.—3 lettuces, 2 handfuls of mustard-and-cress, 10 young radishes, a few slices of cucumber.
1152. INGREDIENTS.—3 heads of lettuce, 2 handfuls of mustard and cress, 10 young radishes, a few slices of cucumber.
[Illustration: SALAD IN BOWL.]
[Illustration: Salad in bowl.]
Mode.—Let the herbs be as fresh as possible for a salad, and, if at all stale or dead-looking, let them lie in water for an hour or two, which will very much refresh them. Wash and carefully pick them over, remove any decayed or wormeaten leaves, and drain them thoroughly by swinging them gently in a clean cloth. With a silver knife, cut the lettuces into small pieces, and the radishes and cucumbers into thin slices; arrange all these ingredients lightly on a dish, with the mustard-and-cress, and pour under, but not over the salad, either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and do not stir it up until it is to be eaten. It may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, sliced cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, and many other things that taste will always suggest to make a pretty and elegant dish. In making a good salad, care must be taken to have the herbs freshly gathered, and thoroughly drained before the sauce is added to them, or it will be watery and thin. Young spring onions, cut small, are by many persons considered an improvement to salads; but, before these are added, the cook should always consult the taste of her employer. Slices of cold meat or poultry added to a salad make a convenient and quickly-made summer luncheon-dish; or cold fish, flaked, will also be found exceedingly nice, mixed with it.
Mode.—Use the freshest herbs possible for a salad. If they’re a bit wilted or looking lifeless, soak them in water for an hour or two to perk them up. Wash them thoroughly and pick through, removing any wilted or wormy leaves, then drain them well by gently swinging them in a clean cloth. Use a silver knife to cut the lettuces into small pieces and slice the radishes and cucumbers thinly. Lightly arrange all these ingredients on a dish, along with the mustard-and-cress, and pour either sauce No. 506, 507, or 508 underneath—not over the salad—and don’t mix it up until you’re ready to eat. You can garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs, sliced cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable flowers, and other ingredients that will elevate the dish's appearance. When making a good salad, it’s important to have freshly picked herbs that are thoroughly drained before adding the sauce; otherwise, it will end up watery. Many people think that finely chopped young spring onions enhance the salad, but the cook should always check the taste preferences of their employer first. Adding slices of cold meat or poultry to a salad makes for a quick and convenient summer lunch; flaked cold fish is also a delightful addition.
Average cost, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons; but more expensive when the herbs are forced.
Average cost, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 people; but more expensive when the herbs are grown under special conditions.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from May to September.
Available from May to September.
CUCUMBERS.—The cucumber is refreshing, but neither nutritious nor digestible, and should be excluded from the regimen of the delicate. There are various modes of preparing cucumbers. When gathered young, they are called gherkins: these, pickled, are much used in seasonings.
CUCUMBERS.—The cucumber is refreshing, but it’s not very nutritious or easy to digest, so delicate individuals should avoid it. There are several ways to prepare cucumbers. When picked young, they’re called gherkins; these are often pickled and commonly used in seasonings.
[Illustration: CUCUMBER-SLICE.]
[Illustration: Cucumber slice.]
RADISHES.—This is the common name given to the root of the Raphanus satious, one of the varieties of the cultivated horseradish. There are red and white radishes; and the French have also what they call violet and black ones, of which the black are the larger. Radishes are composed of nearly the same constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly fibre and nitrogen; and, being generally eaten raw, it is on the last of these that their flavour depends. They do not agree with people, except those who are in good health, and have active digestive powers; for they are difficult of digestion, and cause flatulency and wind, and are the cause of headaches when eaten to excess. Besides being eaten raw, they are sometimes, but rarely, boiled; and they also serve as a pretty garnish for salads. In China, the radish may be found growing naturally, without cultivation; and may be occasionally met with in England as a weed, in similar places to where the wild turnip grows; it, however, thrives best in the garden, and the ground it likes best is a deep open loam, or a well-manured sandy soil.
RADISHES.—This is the common name for the root of the Raphanus sativus, one of the cultivated varieties of horseradish. There are red and white radishes, and the French also have what they call violet and black ones, with the black ones being larger. Radishes are made up of almost the same components as turnips, primarily fiber and nitrogen; since they are usually eaten raw, their flavor relies on the nitrogen content. They don't agree with everyone, only those who are in good health and have strong digestion; they can be hard to digest, causing gas and headaches when consumed in large amounts. Besides being eaten raw, they are sometimes boiled, though that’s rare, and they also make a nice garnish for salads. In China, radishes grow naturally without cultivation and can occasionally be found in England as a weed, in similar areas to where wild turnips grow; however, they thrive best in gardens, preferring deep, open loam or well-manured sandy soil.
[Illustration: TURNIP RADISHES.]
[Illustration: TURNIP RADISHES.]
[Illustration: LONG RADISHES.]
[Illustration: Long Radishes.]
WINTER SALAD.
1153. INGREDIENTS.—Endive, mustard-and-cress, boiled beetroot, 3 or 4 hard-boiled eggs, celery.
1153. INGREDIENTS.—Endive, mustard and cress, boiled beet, 3 or 4 hard-boiled eggs, celery.
Mode.—The above ingredients form the principal constituents of a winter salad, and may be converted into a very pretty dish, by nicely contrasting the various colours, and by tastefully garnishing it. Shred the celery into thin pieces, after having carefully washed and cut away all wormeaten pieces; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress free from grit, and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl or dish; garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both of which should be cut in slices; and pour into the dish, but not over the salad, either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508. Never dress a salad long before it is required for table, as, by standing, it loses its freshness and pretty crisp and light appearance; the sauce, however, may always be prepared a few hours beforehand, and when required for use, the herbs laid lightly over it.
Method.—The ingredients listed above are the main components of a winter salad and can be arranged into an attractive dish by highlighting their different colors and garnishing it nicely. Slice the celery into thin pieces, making sure to wash it thoroughly and remove any damaged parts; wash the endive and mustard-and-cress to get rid of any grit, and place them in a tall pile in the center of a salad bowl or dish. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both sliced. Pour one of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508 into the dish, but not over the salad. Avoid dressing the salad well in advance of serving, as it will lose its freshness and crisp, light look; however, the sauce can be prepared a few hours beforehand, and when it’s time to serve, the herbs can be placed on top.
Average cost, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons.
Average cost, 9d. for a salad for 5 or 6 people.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from the end of September to March.
Seasonal from the end of September to March.
SALADS.—Salads are raw vegetables, of which, among us, the lettuce is the most generally used; several others, however, such as cresses, celery, onions, beetroot, &c., are occasionally employed. As vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment on the stomach, and as they have very little stimulative power upon that organ, they are usually dressed with some condiments, such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, and oil. Respecting the use of these, medical men disagree, especially in reference to oil, which is condemned by some and recommended by others.
SALADS.—Salads are made from raw vegetables, with lettuce being the most commonly used among us; however, several others like cress, celery, onions, beetroot, etc., are sometimes included. Since raw vegetables can cause fermentation in the stomach and have minimal stimulating effect on it, they are usually seasoned with various condiments, such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, and oil. There is disagreement among medical professionals regarding the use of these condiments, especially oil, which some condemn while others recommend.
POTATO SALAD.
1154. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoonfuls of tarragon or plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.
1154. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoons of tarragon or white vinegar, 6 tablespoons of salad oil, pepper and salt to taste, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley.
Mode.—Cut the potatoes into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; put these into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion; season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley; stir the salad well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, and it is ready to serve. This should be made two or three hours before it is wanted for table. Anchovies, olives, or pickles may be added to this salad, as also slices of cold beef, fowl, or turkey.
Mode.—Slice the potatoes into pieces about 1/2 inch thick; place them in a salad bowl with oil and vinegar in the proportions mentioned above; season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoon of chopped parsley; mix the salad well so that all the ingredients are completely combined, and it's ready to serve. This should be prepared two or three hours before it needs to be served. You can also add anchovies, olives, or pickles to this salad, as well as slices of cold beef, chicken, or turkey.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
CHICKEN SALAD.—(See No. 931.)
CHICKEN SALAD. — (See No. 931.)
GROUSE SALAD.—(See No. 1020.)
Grouse Salad.—(See No. 1020.)
LOBSTER SALAD.—(See No. 272.)
LOBSTER SALAD.—(See No. 272.)
TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode).
Boil spinach.
1155. INGREDIENTS.—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste.
1155. INGREDIENTS.—2 buckets of spinach, 2 heaping tablespoons of salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste.
[Illustration: SPINACH GARNISHED WITH CROÛTONS.]
[Illustration: Spinach topped with croutons.]
Mode.—Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds are left amongst it; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it being gritty, act in the following manner:—Have ready two large pans or tubs filled with water; put the spinach into one of these, and thoroughly wash it; then, with the hands, take out the spinach, and put it into the other tub of water (by this means all the grit will be left at the bottom of the tub); wash it again, and, should it not be perfectly free from dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very large saucepan, with about 1/2 pint of water, just sufficient to keep the spinach from burning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it down frequently with a wooden spoon, that it may be done equally; and when it has boiled for rather more than 10 minutes, or until it is perfectly tender, drain it in a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it finely. Put the spinach into a clean stewpan, with the butter and a seasoning of pepper; stir the whole over the fire until quite hot; then put it on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread.
Method.—Carefully pick the spinach, making sure no stalks or weeds are left in it; wash it in several waters, and to avoid grit, do the following:—Prepare two large pans or tubs filled with water; place the spinach in one of them and wash it thoroughly; then, using your hands, transfer the spinach to the other tub of water (this way, all the grit will stay at the bottom of the tub); wash it again, and if it's still not completely clean, repeat the process. Place it in a very large saucepan with about 1/2 pint of water, just enough to keep the spinach from burning, and add the mentioned amount of salt. Press it down frequently with a wooden spoon to ensure even cooking; when it has boiled for a little over 10 minutes, or until it's perfectly tender, drain it in a colander, squeeze it dry, and chop it finely. Add the spinach to a clean saucepan with the butter and a sprinkle of pepper; stir it over the heat until it's hot; then serve it on a warm dish and garnish with toasted bread cubes.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm with the butter.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to heat it with the butter.
Average cost for the above quantity, 8d.
Average cost for the quantity above, 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from November to March.
Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from November to March.
Note.—Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juice may also be added to enrich the flavour; and poached eggs are also frequently served with spinach: they should be placed on the top of it, and it should be garnished with sippets of toasted bread.—See coloured plate U.
Note.—Grated nutmeg, crushed mace, or lemon juice can also be added to enhance the flavor; poached eggs are often served with spinach as well. They should be placed on top, and it should be garnished with pieces of toasted bread.—See colored plate U.
VARIETIES OF SPINACH.—These comprise the Strawberry spinach, which, under that name, was wont to be grown in our flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Garden Oracle, the Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The Oracle is a hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach has its leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the Brassica tribe.
VARIETIES OF SPINACH.—These include Strawberry spinach, which used to be grown in our flower gardens; Good King Harry, Garden Oracle, Prickly, and Round are the commonly used varieties. The Oracle is a hardy type, highly valued in France, and comes from Tartary, introduced in 1548. Common spinach has round leaves and is softer and juicier than any of the Brassica family.
SPINACH DRESSED WITH CREAM, a la Francaise.
Creamed Spinach, French Style.
1156. INGREDIENTS.—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 oz. of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a very little grated nutmeg.
1156. INGREDIENTS.—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoons of salt, 2 oz. of butter, 8 tablespoons of cream, 1 small teaspoon of powdered sugar, a pinch of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155; chop it finely, and put it into a stewpan with the butter; stir over a gentle fire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remaining ingredients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to adding the cream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste.
Mode.—Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155; chop it finely and put it in a saucepan with the butter. Stir over low heat, and when the butter has evaporated, add the remaining ingredients and simmer for about 5 minutes. Before adding the cream, boil it first to prevent curdling. Serve on a hot plate, and garnish with either toasted bread cubes or pieces of puff pastry.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to stew with the cream.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer with the cream.
Average cost for the above quantity, 8d.
Average cost for the above quantity, 8 pence.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from November to March.
Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from November to March.
[Illustration: SPINACH.]
[Illustration: SPINACH.]
SPINACH.—This is a Persian plant. It has been cultivated in our gardens about two hundred years, and is the most wholesome of vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, and very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource for the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the rich.
SPINACH.—This is a Persian plant. It has been grown in our gardens for about two hundred years and is one of the healthiest vegetables. While it's not very high in calories, it's easy to digest. It's light and has a laxative effect. Amazing benefits have been attributed to spinach. It's a great vegetable and very good for your health. When simply prepared, it’s a staple for the poor; when lavishly cooked, it becomes a gourmet dish for the rich.
SPINACH.—This vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the Salsolaceae, or saltworts, and is classified under the head of Spirolobeae, with leaves shaped like worms, and of a succulent kind. In its geographical distribution it is commonly found in extratropical and temperate regions, where they grow as weeds in waste places, and among rubbish, and in marshes by the seashore. In the tropics the order is rarely found. Many of them are used as potherbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal properties.
SPINACH.—This vegetable is part of a sub-order of the Salsolaceae, or saltworts, and is categorized under the Spirolobeae, featuring leaves that are worm-shaped and succulent. It typically grows in extratropical and temperate regions, often found as a weed in abandoned areas, among trash, and in marshes by the coast. It is rarely found in tropical areas. Many varieties are used as leafy greens, and some have medicinal properties, acting as emetics and vermifuges.
FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING SPINACH.
1157. INGREDIENTS.—2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good gravy; when liked, a very little grated nutmeg.
1157. INGREDIENTS.—2 buckets of spinach, 2 tablespoons of salt, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of flour, 8 tablespoons of good gravy; optionally, a small amount of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155, and when quite tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the water that hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into a stewpan, and lay the spinach over that; stir it over a gentle fire, and dredge in the flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil quickly for a few minutes, that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg is liked, grate some to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the gravy has dried away a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread.
Method.—Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155, and when it's fully tender, drain and squeeze it really well to remove any excess water. Chop it finely, then put the butter in a pan and add the spinach on top. Stir it over a low heat, and sprinkle in the flour. Add the gravy and let it boil quickly for a few minutes to prevent discoloration. If you like nutmeg, grate some into the spinach, and when it's thoroughly heated and the gravy has thickened a bit, serve. Garnish the dish with toasted bread pieces.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer in the gravy.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach; 10 minutes to simmer in the sauce.
Average cost for the above quantity, 8d.
Average cost for the above quantity, 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from October to February.
Seasonable.—Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach from October to February.
Note.—For an entremets or second-course dish, spinach, dressed by the above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould; it should then be turned out quickly, and served very hot.
Note.—For a side dish or second course, spinach prepared using the recipe above can be pressed into a hot mold; it should then be quickly turned out and served very hot.
BAKED TOMATOES.
(Excellent.)
(Awesome.)
1158. INGREDIENTS.—8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, bread crumbs.
1158. INGREDIENTS.—8 or 10 tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, bread crumbs.
Mode.—Take off the stalks from the tomatoes; cut them into thick slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish; add a plentiful seasoning of pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion; cover the whole with bread crumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter; bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve very hot. This vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to all kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in slices, may be baked whole; but they will take rather longer time to cook.
Mode.—Remove the stems from the tomatoes, slice them thickly, and place them in a deep baking dish. Season generously with pepper and salt, and add butter in the mentioned amount. Cover everything with bread crumbs, drizzle a little clarified butter on top, and bake in a moderate oven for 20 to 30 minutes. Serve very hot. This dish, prepared this way, makes a great side for all types of roasted meat. Alternatively, the tomatoes can be baked whole, but they will take a bit longer to cook.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour.
20 minutes to half an hour.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.
Average cost, during the entire season, 9d. per basket.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in August, September, and October; but may be had, forced, much earlier.
In season in August, September, and October; but can be available, grown indoors, much earlier.
[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]
[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]
TOMATOES.—The Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but is now cultivated considerably both in France and England. Its skin is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat sour, has become of immense importance in the culinary art. It is used both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an entremets; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy; its flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests easily. From July to September, they gather the tomatoes green in France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they are then hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold place; and there they ripen.
TOMATOES.—The tomato is originally from tropical regions but is now widely grown in both France and England. Its skin is a bright red color, and its flavor, which is slightly sour, has become very important in cooking. It can be used fresh or preserved. When eaten fresh, it is served as an entremets; however, its main use is in sauces and gravies. Its flavor boosts the appetite and is generally liked by everyone. The tomato is a healthy fruit and is easy to digest. From July to September, they harvest the tomatoes while they’re still green in France, without separating them from the stalk. They are then hung upside down in a dry and not too cold area to ripen.
HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or PUREE OF TOMATOES.
HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or TOMATO PUREE.
(See No. 529.)
(See No. 529.)
[Illustration: STEWED TOMATOES.]
[Illustration: TOMATOES STEWED.]
STEWED TOMATOES.
I.
1159. INGREDIENTS.—8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
1159. INGREDIENTS.—8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoons of vinegar.
Mode.—Slice the tomatoes into a lined saucepan; season them with pepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover the lid down closely, and stew from 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are perfectly tender; add the vinegar, stir two or three times, and serve with any kind of roast meat, with which they will be found a delicious accompaniment.
Method.—Cut the tomatoes into a lined saucepan; season them with pepper and salt, and add small pieces of butter on top. Close the lid tightly and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the tomatoes are completely tender; add the vinegar, stir a couple of times, and serve it with any type of roast meat, which they will complement perfectly.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes.
Duration.—20 to 25 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.
Average cost, during peak season, 9d. per basket.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from August to October; but may be had, forced, much earlier.
In season from August to October, but can be available, grown in a greenhouse, much earlier.
ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO.—The fruit of the love-apple is the only part used as an esculent, and it has been found to contain a particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very fragrant extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter, muco-saccharine, some salts, and, in all probability, an alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so powerful as to cause vertigo and vomiting.
ANALYSIS OF THE TOMATO.—The fruit of the love-apple is the only part used as food, and it has been found to contain a specific acid, a volatile oil, a brown, highly fragrant extract-resinous substance, a plant-mineral matter, muco-saccharine, some salts, and likely an alkaloid. The entire plant has an unpleasant odor, and its juice, when heated, releases a vapor strong enough to cause dizziness and nausea.
II.
1160. INGREDIENTS.—8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, thickening of butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste.
1160. INGREDIENTS.—8 tomatoes, about 1/2 pint of good gravy, a thickening made from butter and flour, cayenne pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Take out the stalks of the tomatoes; put them into a wide stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy, and stew gently until they are tender, occasionally carefully turning them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour worked together on a plate; let it just boil up after the thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these should be served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish.
Method.—Remove the stalks from the tomatoes and place them in a large stewpan. Pour the specified amount of good brown gravy over them and cook gently until they're tender, occasionally carefully turning them to ensure they cook evenly. Thicken the gravy with a bit of butter and flour mixed together on a plate; let it come to a boil after adding the thickening, then serve. If available, these should be served on a silver or plated vegetable dish.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes, very gentle stewing.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes, very gentle simmering.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.
Average cost, during the entire season, 9d. per basket.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in August, September, and October; but maybe had, forced, much earlier.
In season in August, September, and October; but possibly available, forced, much earlier.
THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.—This vegetable is a native of Mexico and South America, but is also found in the East Indies, where it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In this country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was; and the more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one of the best pickles.
THE TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.—This vegetable comes from Mexico and South America, but it's also found in the East Indies, where it's believed to have been brought over by the Spaniards. In this country, it's grown much more than it used to be; and as more people learn about the various delicious ways to prepare the fruit, its cultivation will continue to spread. It's great for ketchup, soups, and sauces, and the unripe fruit makes one of the best pickles.
TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.
1161. INGREDIENTS.—Truffles, buttered paper.
1161. INGREDIENTS.—Truffles, parchment paper.
Mode.—Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them in several waters with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit remains on them; wrap each truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven for quite an hour; take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them in a hot napkin.
Method.—Choose some good truffles; clean them by washing in several waters with a brush until no sand or grit is left; wrap each truffle in buttered paper and bake in a hot oven for about an hour; remove the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them in a warm napkin.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost.—Not often bought in this country.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost.—Rarely purchased in this country.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
[Illustration: TRUFFLES.]
[Illustration: TRUFFLES.]
THE COMMON TRUFFLE.—This is the Tuber cibarium of science, and belongs to that numerous class of esculent fungi distinguished from other vegetables not only by the singularity of their forms, but by their chemical composition. Upon analysis, they are found not only to contain the usual components of the vegetable kingdom, such as carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, but likewise a large proportion of nitrogen; from which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh. It was long ago observed by Dr. Darwin, that all the mushrooms cooked at our tables, as well as those used for ketchup, possessed an animal flavour; and soup enriched by mushrooms only has sometimes been supposed to contain meat.
THE COMMON TRUFFLE.—This is the Tuber cibarium in scientific terms, and it belongs to a large group of edible fungi that stands out from other plants not just because of their unique shapes, but also due to their chemical makeup. When analyzed, they reveal that they contain not only the typical elements found in the plant kingdom, like carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, but also a significant amount of nitrogen, which makes them more similar to animal flesh. Dr. Darwin noted long ago that all the mushrooms served at our tables, as well as those used for ketchup, have a meaty flavor; sometimes, a soup enriched solely with mushrooms has even been thought to contain meat.
TO DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE.
1162. INGREDIENTS.—12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of champagne, 1/2 pint of stock.
1162. INGREDIENTS.—12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fatty bacon, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savory herbs, including parsley, 1 bay leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of ground mace, 2 glasses of champagne, 1/2 pint of stock.
Mode.—Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a musty smell, and wash them well with a brush, in cold water only, until perfectly clean. Put the bacon into a stewpan, with the truffles and the remaining ingredients; simmer these gently for an hour, and let the whole cool in the stewpan. When to be served, rewarm them, and drain them on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a delicately white napkin, that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, and serve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies, stock, sauces, &c.; and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes of fowl, &c.
Mode.—Carefully pick out the truffles, discarding any that smell musty, and wash them thoroughly with a brush in cold water until they’re completely clean. Place the bacon in a saucepan, along with the truffles and the other ingredients; let these simmer gently for an hour, then let everything cool in the saucepan. When ready to serve, reheat them and drain on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a pristine white napkin to create a strong contrast with the truffles, and serve. The trimmings from the truffles can be used to add flavor to gravies, stocks, sauces, etc.; they also make a great addition to ragouts and prepared dishes of poultry, etc.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost.—Not often bought in this country.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost.—Rarely purchased in this country.
Seasonable from November to March.
Available from November to March.
THE TRUFFLE.—The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom. It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other plants, organs of reproduction; yet, notwithstanding all the efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth under the earth, never appearing on the surface. They are found in many parts of France: those of Périgord Magny are the most esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the species,—the black, the red, and the white: the latter are of little value. The red are very rare, and their use is restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather truffles, they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface with his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles. Good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable perfume; they should be light in proportion to their size, and elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection, they should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating and beating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more digestible; but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their chief use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor has said, "Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes that opulence can offer to the epicure." The Truffle grows in clusters, some inches below the surface of the soil, and is of an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in England are about the size of a hen's egg, and have no roots. As there is nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been trained to discriminate their scent, by which they are discovered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently lead to their being found, from their rutting up the ground in search of them.
THE TRUFFLE.—The truffle is part of the mushroom family. It's clear that truffles, like other plants, must have reproductive organs; however, despite all the efforts of art and science, cultivating them in a regular way has proven impossible. Truffles grow deep underground and never appear on the surface. They can be found in various regions of France, with the Périgord Magny variety being the most prized for their aroma. There are three types: black, red, and white, with the white being of little value. The red ones are very rare and their use is limited. The black truffles are the most highly regarded, and their consumption is significant. When locals go to hunt for truffles, they bring a pig along to sniff out where they grow. Once located, the pig digs up the surface with its snout, and then the men dig until they uncover the truffles. Good truffles are easy to identify by their pleasant aroma; they should feel light for their size and springy when pressed. To be at their best, they need to be fresh since their fragrance decreases with processing. Truffles are stimulating and can be hard to digest for weak stomachs. Some cooking methods can make them easier to digest, but they should always be eaten in moderation. Their main purpose is for seasoning and garnishing. To sum it up, a professor once said, "Dishes with truffles are among the most exquisite that wealth can offer to food lovers." The truffle grows in clusters a few inches beneath the soil and has an irregular round shape. Those found wild in England are about the size of a hen's egg and have no roots. Since there are no visible signs of where they grow, dogs have been trained to detect their scent, which is how they are found. Pigs are also very fond of them and often lead to their discovery by rooting around in the ground looking for them.
ITALIAN MODE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES.
1163. INGREDIENTS.—10 truffles, 1/4 pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely-minced garlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
1163. INGREDIENTS.—10 truffles, 1/4 pint of salad oil, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, a small amount of finely minced garlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin slices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake them for nearly an hour, and, just before serving, add the lemon-juice, and send them to table very hot.
Mode.—After cleaning and brushing the truffles, slice them thinly and place them in a baking dish, seasoned with oil, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the same proportions mentioned above. Bake for nearly an hour, and just before serving, add the lemon juice, then serve very hot.
Time.—Nearly 1 hour.
Duration.—Almost 1 hour.
Average cost.—Not often bought in this country.
Average cost.—Not frequently purchased in this country.
Seasonable from November to March.
Seasonal from November to March.
WHERE TRUFFLES ARE FOUND.—In this country, the common truffle is found on the downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent; and they abound in dry light soils, and more especially in oak and chestnut forests. In France they are plentiful, and many are imported from the south of that country and Italy, where they are much larger and in greater perfection: they lose, however, much of their flavour by drying. Truffles have in England been tried to be propagated artificially, but without success.
WHERE TRUFFLES ARE FOUND.—In this country, common truffles are found on the downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent; they thrive in dry, light soils, particularly in oak and chestnut forests. In France, they are plentiful, and many are brought in from the south of that country and Italy, where they tend to be larger and of better quality: however, they lose much of their flavor when dried. Attempts have been made to cultivate truffles artificially in England, but those efforts have not been successful.
TRUFFLES A L'ITALIENNE.
1164. INGREDIENTS.—10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne to taste.
1164. INGREDIENTS.—10 truffles, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, 1 minced shallot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoons of good brown gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne to taste.
Mode.—Wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of a penny-piece; put them into a sauté pan, with the parsley, shalot, salt, pepper, and 1 oz. of butter; stir them over the fire, that they may all be equally done, which will be in about 10 minutes, and drain off some of the butter; then add a little more fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a little cayenne; stir over the fire until the whole is on the point of boiling, when serve.
Method.—Wash the truffles and slice them to about the size of a penny. Place them in a sauté pan with the parsley, shallot, salt, pepper, and 1 oz. of butter. Stir them over the heat to ensure they cook evenly, which will take about 10 minutes, and then drain off some of the butter. Next, add a little more fresh butter, 2 tablespoons of good gravy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, and a dash of cayenne. Stir over the heat until the mixture is just about to boil, then serve.
Time.—Altogether, 20 minutes.
Duration.—Total of 20 minutes.
Average cost.—Not often bought in this country.
Average cost.—Rarely purchased in this country.
Seasonable from November to March.
In season from November to March.
USES OF THE TRUFFLE.—Like the Morel, truffles are seldom eaten alone, but are much used in gravies, soups, and ragoûts. They are likewise dried for the winter months, and, when reduced to powder, form a useful culinary ingredient; they, however, have many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess. Their wholesomeness is, perhaps, questionable, and they should be eaten with moderation.
USES OF THE TRUFFLE.—Similar to Morels, truffles are rarely enjoyed on their own but are commonly added to gravies, soups, and stews. They are also dried for the winter months, and when ground into powder, they become a valuable cooking ingredient. However, many health benefits are claimed for them that they don’t actually have. Their safety as food might be debatable, and they should be consumed in moderation.
BOILED TURNIPS.
1165. INGREDIENTS.—Turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1165. INGREDIENTS.—Turnips; for every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide them into quarters; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked whole. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a fork, and, when done, take them up in a colander; let them thoroughly drain, and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled mutton, but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole: unless nice and young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing plainly as above.
Mode.—Peel the turnips, and if they are very large, cut them into quarters; otherwise, cook them whole. Place them in a saucepan with boiling, salted water, and let them simmer until they are tender. Test them with a fork, and once they're done, drain them in a colander; let them drain completely before serving. Boiled turnips typically accompany boiled mutton, but they taste much better when mashed rather than served whole. Unless they are fresh and young, it's hardly worth the effort to prepare them plainly as described above.
Time.—Old turnips, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hour; young ones, about 18 to 20 minutes.
Time.—Old turnips, 45 minutes to 1 hour and 15 minutes; young ones, about 18 to 20 minutes.
Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Sufficient.—Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient.—Plan on a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—May be had all the year; but in spring only useful for flavouring gravies, &c.
Seasonable.—Available all year round; but in spring it’s mainly useful for adding flavor to gravies, etc.
[Illustration: TURNIPS.]
[Illustration: TURNIPS.]
THE TURNIP.—This vegetable is the Brassica Rapa of science, and grows wild in England, but cannot be brought exactly to resemble what it becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an excellent culinary vegetable, much used all over Europe, where it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups and stews. They do not thrive in a hot climate; for in India they, and many more of our garden vegetables, lose their flavour and become comparatively tasteless. The Swede is the largest variety, but it is too coarse for the table.
THE TURNIP.—This vegetable is the Brassica Rapa in scientific terms, and it grows wild in England, but it can't be exactly made to look like it does when cultivated. It's said to have originally come from Hanover and makes for an excellent cooking vegetable, widely used across Europe, where it’s eaten alone or mashed and used in soups and stews. They don’t do well in hot climates; for instance, in India, both turnips and many other garden vegetables lose their flavor and become relatively bland. The Swede is the largest variety, but it’s too coarse for dining.
MASHED TURNIPS.
1166. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 large turnips; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, cayenne or white pepper to taste.
1166. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 large turnips; for each 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt, 2 oz. of butter, and cayenne or white pepper to taste.
Mode.—Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion; boil them until tender; then drain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by pressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free from water, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander, and put them into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white pepper, or cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring them over the fire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the turnips are thoroughly hot; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk added after the turnips are pressed through the colander, is an improvement to both the colour and flavour of this vegetable.
Method.—Peel the turnips, cut them into quarters, and place them in boiling salted water; cook them until they are tender. Then, drain them in a colander and press them as dry as possible using the back of a large plate. Once they are completely free of water, mash the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander and transfer them to a clean saucepan. Add butter, white pepper, or cayenne, and a little salt if needed. Keep stirring over the heat until the butter is well combined and the turnips are heated through; then plate and serve. Adding a little cream or milk after the turnips have been mashed improves both the color and flavor of this vegetable.
Time.—From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to warm them through.
Time.—It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to boil the turnips; 10 minutes to heat them up.
Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable.—May be had all the year; but in spring only good for flavouring gravies.
Seasonable.—Available all year round; but in spring, it’s only good for adding flavor to gravies.
VEGETABLES REDUCED TO PURÉE.—Persons in the flower of youth, having healthy stomachs, and leading active lives, may eat all sorts of vegetables, without inconvenience, save, of course, in excess. The digestive functions possess great energy during the period of youth: the body, to develop itself, needs nourishment. Physical exercise gives an appetite, which it is necessary to satisfy, and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous action of the gastric organs. As old proverb says, "At twenty one can digest iron." But for aged persons, the sedentary, or the delicate, it is quite otherwise. Then the gastric power has considerably diminished, the digestive organs have lost their energy, the process of digestion is consequently slower, and the least excess at table is followed by derangement of the stomach for several days. Those who generally digest vegetables with difficulty, should eat them reduced to a pulp or purée, that is to say, with their skins and tough fibres removed. Subjected to this process, vegetables which, when entire, would create flatulence and wind, are then comparatively harmless. Experience has established the rule, that nourishment is not complete without the alliance of meat with vegetables. We would also add, that the regime most favourable to health is found in variety: variety pleases the senses, monotony is disagreeable. The eye is fatigued by looking always on one object, the ear by listening to one sound, and the palate by tasting one flavour. It is the same with the stomach: consequently, variety of food is one of the essentials for securing good digestion.
VEGETABLES MADE INTO PURÉE.—Young people with healthy stomachs who lead active lives can eat all kinds of vegetables without any issues, except of course in moderation. Digestive functions are very efficient during youth, and the body needs nutrition to grow. Physical activity creates an appetite that needs to be satisfied, and vegetables thrive under the active function of the stomach. As the old saying goes, "At twenty, you can digest anything." But for older individuals, the sedentary, or those with delicate constitutions, it’s a different story. Their stomach power has significantly decreased, the digestive organs have lost their efficiency, the digestion process takes longer, and even a small overindulgence can lead to stomach issues for several days. For those who usually have trouble digesting vegetables, it's better to eat them pureed, meaning without their skins and tough fibers. When processed this way, vegetables that would typically cause gas and bloating are much easier to handle. Experience has shown that a meal isn’t complete without a combination of meat and vegetables. Additionally, a diet that is most beneficial to health is one that includes variety: diversity stimulates the senses, while monotony can be unpleasant. The eyes tire from always focusing on a single object, the ears from hearing the same sound repeatedly, and the palate from tasting one flavor alone. The same applies to the stomach; therefore, a variety of foods is essential for good digestion.
GERMAN MODE OF COOKING TURNIPS.
1167. INGREDIENTS.—8 large turnips, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour.
1167. INGREDIENTS.—8 large turnips, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste, a little over 1/2 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 tablespoon of flour.
Mode.—Make the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the turnips, after having pared and cut them into dice, and season them with pepper and salt. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, then add the broth, and simmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender. Brown the above proportion of flour with a little butter; add this to the turnips, let them simmer another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is usually sent to table with this vegetable, and may be cooked with the turnips by placing it in the midst of them: the meat would then be very delicious, as, there being so little liquid with the turnips, it would almost be steamed, and consequently very tender.
Method.—Heat the butter in a saucepan, add the turnips that have been peeled and diced, and season with pepper and salt. Sauté them over the heat for a few minutes, then pour in the broth, and let it simmer gently until the turnips are tender. Brown the specified amount of flour in a bit of butter; stir this into the turnips, let them simmer for another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mutton is typically served with this vegetable and can be cooked alongside the turnips by placing it in the middle of them: the meat would turn out very delicious, as the limited liquid with the turnips would steam it, making it very tender.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 4p. per bunch.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable.—May be had all the year.
In Season.—Available year-round.
TURNIPS.—Good turnips are delicate in texture, firm, and sweet. The best sorts contain a sweet juicy mucilage, uniting with the aroma a slightly acid quality, which is completely neutralized in cooking. The turnip is prepared in a variety of ways. Ducks stuffed with turnips have been highly appreciated. It is useful in the regimen of persons afflicted with chronic visceral irritations. The turnip only creates flatulency when it is soft, porous, and stringy. It is then, consequently, bad.
TURNIPS.—Good turnips are tender, firm, and sweet. The best varieties have a sweet, juicy texture that blends with a hint of acidity, which disappears when cooked. Turnips can be prepared in many different ways. Ducks stuffed with turnips are particularly popular. They’re beneficial for people dealing with chronic stomach issues. Turnips only cause gas when they’re soft, spongy, and stringy. In that case, they are not good.
TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE.
(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)
(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)
1168. INGREDIENTS.—7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 538 or 539.
1168. INGREDIENTS.—7 or 8 turnips, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 538 or 539.
Mode.—Peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles; boil them in salt and water, to which has been added a little butter, until tender; then take them out, drain, arrange them on a dish, and pour over the white sauce made by recipe No. 538 or 539, and to which has been added a small lump of sugar. In winter, when other vegetables are scarce, this will be found a very good and pretty-looking dish: when approved, a little mustard may be added to the sauce.
Mode.—Peel and cut the turnips into pear or marble shapes; boil them in salted water with a bit of butter until they’re tender; then take them out, drain them, arrange them on a plate, and drizzle over the white sauce made from recipe No. 538 or 539, with a small lump of sugar added. In winter, when other vegetables are hard to find, this will be a very good and visually appealing dish: if desired, a little mustard can be added to the sauce.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to boil the turnips.
Time.—About 45 minutes to boil the turnips.
Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Average cost, 4d. per bunch.
Sufficient for 1 side-dish. Seasonable in winter.
Good for 1 side dish. Available in winter.
THE FRENCH NAVET.—This is a variety of the turnip; but, instead of being globular, has more the shape of the carrot. Its flavour being excellent, it is much esteemed on the Continent for soups and made dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will. Accordingly, when stewed in gravy, they are greatly relished. This flavour resides in the rind, which is not cut off, but scraped. This variety was once grown in England, but now it is rarely found in our gardens, though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a yellowish-white colour, and is sometimes imported to the London market.
THE FRENCH NAVET.—This is a type of turnip; however, instead of being round, it resembles more the shape of a carrot. Its flavor is excellent, making it highly valued in Europe for soups and cooked dishes. Just two or three of these turnips can provide as much flavor as a dozen regular turnips. Therefore, when stewed in gravy, they are very popular. This flavor is in the skin, which isn't removed but rather scraped. This variety was once grown in England, but it’s now rarely seen in our gardens, although it definitely deserves a spot there. It has a yellowish-white color and is sometimes imported to the London market.
BOILED TURNIP GREENS.
1169. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; turnip-greens.
1169. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, add 1 heaping tablespoon of salt; turnip greens.
Mode.—Wash the greens well in two or three waters, and pick off all the decayed and dead leaves; tie them in small bunches, and put them into plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and when tender, pour them into a colander; let them drain, arrange them in a vegetable-dish, remove the string that the greens were tied with, and serve.
Mode.—Wash the greens thoroughly in two or three changes of water, and remove all the wilted and dead leaves; tie them in small bunches and place them in a large pot of boiling water with the appropriate amount of salt. Keep them boiling rapidly, with the lid off the pot, and once they're tender, pour them into a colander. Let them drain, arrange them in a vegetable dish, take off the string that held the greens together, and serve.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. for a dish for 3 persons.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 4d. for a dish for 3 people.
Seasonable in March, April, and May.
Seasonal in March, April, and May.
CABBAGE, TURNIP-TOPS, AND GREENS.—All the cabbage tribe, which comprises coleworts, brocoli, cauliflower, sprouts, and turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be dressed young, when they have a rapid growth; but, if they have stood the summer, in order to be tender, they should be allowed to have a touch of frost. The cabbage contains much vegetable albumen, and several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass. Cabbage is heavy, and a long time digesting, which has led to a belief that it is very nourishing. It is only fit food for robust and active persons; the sedentary or delicate should carefully avoid it. Cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways: it serves as a garniture to several recherché dishes,—partridge and cabbage for example. Bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish; but only a good stomach can digest it.
CABBAGE, TURNIP TOPS, AND GREENS.—All members of the cabbage family, which includes collard greens, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and turnip tops, are best enjoyed when they're young and have grown quickly. However, if they've been left to grow over the summer, they should experience a bit of frost to become tender. Cabbage is rich in vegetable protein and contains various amounts of sulfur and potassium nitrate. Cabbage is heavy and takes a long time to digest, leading to the belief that it’s very nutritious. It's only suitable for strong, active people; those who are sedentary or delicate should avoid it. Cabbage can be prepared in many ways and is a garnish for several fancy dishes—like partridge and cabbage, for example. Bacon and cabbage is a popular dish, but only a strong stomach can handle it.
BOILED VEGETABLE MARROW.
1170. INGREDIENTS.—To each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt; vegetable marrows.
1170. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt; vegetable marrows.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW ON TOAST.]
[Illustration: ZUCCHINI ON TOAST.]
Mode.—Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion; put in the marrows after peeling them, and boil them until quite tender. Take them up with a slice, halve, and, should they be very large, quarter them. Dish them on toast, and send to table with them a tureen of melted butter, or, in lieu of this, a small pat of salt butter. Large vegetable marrows may be preserved throughout the winter by storing them in a dry place; when wanted for use, a few slices should be cut and boiled in the same manner as above; but, when once begun, the marrow must be eaten quickly, as it keeps but a short time after it is cut. Vegetable marrows are also very delicious mashed: they should be boiled, then drained, and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon. Heat them in a saucepan, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a small piece of butter, and dish with a few sippets of toasted bread placed round as a garnish.
Mode.—Have a saucepan of boiling, salted water ready. Peel the marrows and add them to the boiling water, cooking until they're completely tender. Remove them with a slotted spoon, slice them in half, and if they are really large, quarter them. Serve them on toast and accompany with a tureen of melted butter, or alternatively, a small pat of salt butter. Large vegetable marrows can be stored in a dry place to preserve them through the winter; when you want to use them, cut a few slices and boil them as described above. However, once you've cut into the marrow, it should be eaten quickly, as it won't keep long after being cut. Vegetable marrows are also great mashed: boil them, drain, and mash them smoothly with a wooden spoon. Heat them again in a saucepan, add salt, pepper, and a small piece of butter, and serve with a few pieces of toasted bread as a garnish.
Time.—Young vegetable marrows 10 to 20 minutes; old ones, 1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Time.—Young zucchini 10 to 20 minutes; older ones, 30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 1s. per dozen.
Average cost, during the entire season, 1 shilling per dozen.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 moderate-sized marrow for each person.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 medium-sized marrow for each person.
Seasonable in July, August, and September; but may be preserved all the winter.
Available in July, August, and September; but can be kept all winter long.
FRIED VEGETABLE MARROW.
1171. INGREDIENTS.—3 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.
1171. INGREDIENTS.—3 medium-sized zucchini, egg and breadcrumbs, hot lard.
Mode.—Peel, and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water; then drain them and cut them in quarters, and take out the seeds. When thoroughly drained, brush the marrows over with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs; have ready some hot lard, fry the marrow in this, and, when of a nice brown, dish; sprinkle over a little salt and pepper, and serve.
Method.—Peel and boil the squash until tender in salted water; then drain them, cut them into quarters, and remove the seeds. Once thoroughly drained, brush the squash with egg and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Heat some lard and fry the squash in it until golden brown, then plate them up; sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, and serve.
Time.—About 1/2 hour to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to fry it.
Time.—About 30 minutes to boil the marrow, 7 minutes to fry it.
Average cost, in full season, 1s. per dozen.
Average cost, during peak season, 1 shilling per dozen.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Good for 4 people.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
Available in July, August, and September.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.]
[Illustration: ZUCCHINI.]
THE VEGETABLE MARROW.—This vegetable is now extensively used, and belongs to the Cucurbits. It is the C. ovifera of science, and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber, and squash, is widely diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe. Of the nature of this family we have already spoken when treating of the cucumber.
THE VEGETABLE MARROW.—This vegetable is now widely used and belongs to the Cucurbits family. It is the C. ovifera in scientific terms, and, similar to melons, gourds, cucumbers, and squashes, it is commonly found in tropical or warmer regions around the world. We have already discussed the characteristics of this family when talking about cucumbers.
CUT VEGETABLES FOR SOUPS, &c.
Chop vegetables for soups, etc.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE-CUTTER.]
[Illustration: Vegetable Cutter.]
1172. The annexed engraving represents a cutter for shaping vegetables for soups, ragouts, stews, &c.; carrots and turnips being the usual vegetables for which this utensil is used. Cut the vegetables into slices about 1/4 inch in thickness, stamp them out with the cutter, and boil them for a few minutes in salt and water, until tender. Turnips should be cut in rather thicker slices than carrots, on account of the former boiling more quickly to a pulp than the latter.
1172. The attached illustration shows a cutter for shaping vegetables for soups, stews, and other dishes. Carrots and turnips are the typical vegetables used with this tool. Slice the vegetables into pieces about 1/4 inch thick, use the cutter to shape them, and boil them for several minutes in salted water until they're tender. Cut the turnips into slightly thicker slices than the carrots, since the turnips cook down to a mush faster than the carrots.
CARROTS.—Several species of carrots are cultivated,—the red, the yellow, and the which. Those known as the Crecy carrots are considered the best, and are very sweet. The carrot has been classed by hygienists among flatulent vegetables, and as difficult of digestion. When the root becomes old, it is almost as hard as wood; but the young carrot, which has not reached its full growth, is tender, relishing, nutritious, and digests well when properly cooked.
CARROTS.—There are several types of carrots grown today—the red, the yellow, and the others. The ones known as Crecy carrots are regarded as the best and are very sweet. Health experts categorize the carrot as a gas-producing vegetable that can be hard to digest. When the root gets old, it becomes nearly as hard as wood; however, the young carrot, which hasn't fully matured, is tender, tasty, nutritious, and easy to digest when cooked properly.
VEGETABLE MARROWS IN WHITE SAUCE.
1173. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 moderate-sized marrows, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 539.
1173. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 medium-sized zucchinis, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 539.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE.]
[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW IN WHITE SAUCE.]
Mode.—Pare the marrows; cut them in halves, and shape each half at the top in a point, leaving the bottom end flat for it to stand upright in the dish. Boil the marrows in salt and water until tender; take them up very carefully, and arrange them on a hot dish. Have ready 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by recipe No. 539; pour this over the marrows, and serve.
Mode.—Peel the marrow and cut it in half, then shape the top of each half into a point, leaving the bottom flat so it can stand upright on the plate. Boil the marrow in salted water until it's tender; remove it carefully and place it on a warm dish. Prepare 1/2 pint of white sauce following recipe No. 539; pour it over the marrow and serve.
Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes to boil the marrows.
Time.—Boil the marrows for 15 to 20 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 1s. per dozen.
Average cost, during peak season, 1s. per dozen.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
In season in July, August, and September.
BOILED INDIAN WHEAT or MAIZE.
Boiled wheat or corn.
1174. INGREDIENTS.—The ears of young and green Indian wheat; to every 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
1174. INGREDIENTS.—The ears of young and green Indian wheat; for every 1/2 gallon of water, use 1 heaping tablespoon of salt.
Mode.—This vegetable, which makes one of the most delicious dishes brought to table, is unfortunately very rarely seen in Britain; and we wonder that, in the gardens of the wealthy, it is not invariably cultivated. Our sun, it is true, possesses hardly power sufficient to ripen maize; but, with well-prepared ground, and in a favourable position, it might be sufficiently advanced by the beginning of autumn to serve as a vegetable. The outside sheath being taken off and the waving fibres removed, let the ears be placed in boiling water, where they should remain for about 25 minutes (a longer time may be necessary for larger ears than ordinary); and, when sufficiently boiled and well drained, they may be sent to table whole, and with a piece of toast underneath them. Melted butter should be served with them.
Mode.—This vegetable, which makes one of the most delicious dishes presented at the table, is unfortunately very rarely seen in Britain; and we wonder why it isn’t consistently grown in the gardens of the wealthy. Our sun, it’s true, doesn’t have enough power to fully ripen maize; however, with well-prepared soil and in a good location, it could be advanced enough by early autumn to be used as a vegetable. After removing the outer husk and the silky fibers, place the ears in boiling water, where they should cook for about 25 minutes (you may need a longer time for larger ears). When they are properly boiled and well drained, they can be served whole with a piece of toast underneath. Melted butter should be provided as a condiment.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average cost.—Seldom bought.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average cost.—Rarely purchased.
Sufficient,—1 ear for each person. Seasonable in autumn.
Sufficient—1 per person. In season in the fall.
Note.—William Cobbett, the English radical writer and politician, was a great cultivator and admirer of maize, and constantly ate it as a vegetable, boiled. We believe he printed a special recipe for it, but we have been unable to lay our hands on it. Mr. Buchanan, the present president of the United States, was in the habit, when ambassador here, of receiving a supply of Indian corn from America in hermetically-sealed cases; and the publisher of this work remembers, with considerable satisfaction, his introduction to a dish of this vegetable, when in America. He found it to combine the excellences of the young green pea and the finest asparagus; but he felt at first slightly awkward in holding the large ear with one hand, whilst the other had to be employed in cutting off with a knife the delicate green grains.
Note.—William Cobbett, the English radical writer and politician, was a passionate grower and fan of corn, and he frequently ate it boiled as a vegetable. We believe he published a specific recipe for it, but we haven't been able to find it. Mr. Buchanan, the current president of the United States, used to receive shipments of corn from America in sealed containers when he was an ambassador here; and the publisher of this work fondly remembers his introduction to this vegetable during his time in America. He discovered it had the best qualities of both young green peas and the finest asparagus, but he initially felt a bit awkward holding the large ear with one hand while using the other to carefully cut off the tender green kernels with a knife.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXVI.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.
1175. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, familiar as they may be, and unimportant as they may be held in the estimation of some, are yet intimately connected with the development of agricultural resources in reference to the cereal grasses. When they began to be made is uncertain; but we may safely presume, that a simple form of pudding was amongst the first dishes made after discovering a mode of grinding wheat into flour. Traditional history enables us to trace man back to the time of the Deluge. After that event he seems to have recovered himself in the central parts of Asia, and to have first risen to eminence in the arts of civilization on the banks of the Nile. From this region, Greece, Carthage, and some other parts along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, were colonized. In process of time, Greece gave to the Romans the arts which she had thus received from Egypt, and these subsequently diffused them over Europe. How these were carried to or developed in India and China, is not so well ascertained; and in America their ancient existence rests only on very indistinct traditions. As to who was the real discoverer of the use of corn, we have no authentic knowledge. The traditions of different countries ascribe it to various fabulous personages, whose names it is here unnecessary to introduce. In Egypt, however, corn must have grown abundantly; for Abraham, and after him Jacob, had recourse to that country for supplies during times of famine.
1175. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, as common as they may be, and seemingly insignificant to some, are actually closely tied to the development of agricultural resources related to cereal grains. It's unclear when they first appeared, but we can reasonably assume that a basic version of pudding was one of the earliest dishes created after discovering how to grind wheat into flour. Traditional history takes us back to the time of the Great Flood. After that event, humanity appears to have recovered in central Asia and gained prominence in the arts of civilization along the banks of the Nile. From that region, places like Greece, Carthage, and some other areas along the Mediterranean Sea were colonized. Over time, Greece passed on the arts it had received from Egypt to the Romans, who then spread them throughout Europe. How these arts were introduced or evolved in India and China is less clear, and in America, their ancient existence is supported only by vague traditions. We lack solid evidence about who truly discovered the use of corn. Different countries attribute this discovery to various mythical figures, but it’s unnecessary to list their names here. In Egypt, however, corn must have grown abundantly, as both Abraham and later Jacob turned to that country for supplies during famines.
1176. THE HABITS OF A PEOPLE, to a great extent, are formed by the climate in which they live, and by the native or cultivated productions in which their country abounds. Thus we find that the agricultural produce of the ancient Egyptians is pretty much the same as that of the present day, and the habits of the people are not materially altered. In Greece, the products cultivated in antiquity were the same kinds of grains and legumes as are cultivated at present, with the vine, the fig, the olive, the apple, and other fruits. So with the Romans, and so with other nations. As to the different modes of artificially preparing those to please the taste, it is only necessary to say that they arise from the universal desire of novelty, characteristic of man in the development of his social conditions. Thus has arisen the whole science of cookery, and thus arose the art of making puddings. The porridge of the Scotch is nothing more than a species of hasty pudding, composed of oatmeal, salt, and water; and the "red pottage" for which Esau sold his birthright, must have been something similar. The barley-gruel of the Lacedaemonians, of the Athenian gladiators and common people, was the same, with the exception of the slight seasoning it had beyond the simplicity of Scottish fare. Here is the ancient recipe for the Athenian national dish:—"Dry near the fire, in the oven, twenty pounds of barley-flour; then parch it; add three pounds of linseed-meal, half a pound of coriander-seed, two ounces of salt, and the quantity of water necessary." To this sometimes a little millet was added, in order to give the paste greater cohesion and delicacy.
1176. THE HABITS OF A PEOPLE are largely shaped by the climate they live in and the local or cultivated products their country produces. We see that the agricultural output of ancient Egyptians is very similar to what we have today, and the people's habits haven't changed much. In Greece, the crops grown in ancient times were the same types of grains and legumes that we grow now, along with grapes, figs, olives, apples, and other fruits. The same goes for the Romans and other nations. As for the different ways people prepare food to suit their tastes, it's simply a reflection of the universal desire for novelty that comes with the development of social conditions. This is how the whole science of cooking arose, including the art of making puddings. The porridge eaten in Scotland is basically a form of hasty pudding made from oatmeal, salt, and water; and the "red pottage" for which Esau sold his birthright must have been something similar. The barley gruel consumed by the Spartans, Athenian gladiators, and common people was the same, except for a little seasoning that made it slightly different from Scottish food. Here’s the ancient recipe for the Athenian national dish: "Dry twenty pounds of barley flour by the fire in the oven; then roast it; add three pounds of linseed meal, half a pound of coriander seeds, two ounces of salt, and enough water." Sometimes, a little millet was added to give the mixture better cohesion and a finer texture.
1177. OATMEAL AMONGST THE GREEKS AND ROMANS was highly esteemed, as was also rice, which they considered as beneficial to the chest. They also held in high repute the Irion, or Indian wheat of the moderns. The flour of this cereal was made into a kind of hasty pudding, and, parched or roasted, as eaten with a little salt. The Spelt, or Red wheat, was likewise esteemed, and its flour formed the basis of the Carthaginian pudding, for which we here give the scientific recipe:—"Put a pound of red-wheat flour into water, and when it has steeped some time, transfer it to a wooden bowl. Add three pounds of cream cheese, half a pound of honey, and one egg. Beat the whole together, and cook it on a slow fire in a stewpan." Should this be considered unpalatable, another form has been recommended. "Sift the flour, and, with some water, put it into a wooden vessel, and, for ten days, renew the water twice each day. At the end of that period, press out the water and place the paste in another vessel. It is now to be reduced to the consistence of thick lees, and passed through a piece of new linen. Repeat this last operation, then dry the mass in the sun and boil it in milk. Season according to taste." These are specimens of the puddings of antiquity, and this last recipe was held in especial favour by the Romans.
1177. OATMEAL AMONG THE GREEKS AND ROMANS was highly valued, as was rice, which they thought was good for the chest. They also regarded the Irion, or Indian wheat, of today as important. The flour from this grain was turned into a type of quick pudding and would be eaten roasted or toasted with a bit of salt. Spelt, or red wheat, was similarly respected, and its flour was the main ingredient in the Carthaginian pudding, for which we provide the scientific recipe here: "Put a pound of red-wheat flour into water, and after it has soaked for a while, transfer it to a wooden bowl. Add three pounds of cream cheese, half a pound of honey, and one egg. Mix everything together and cook it slowly in a saucepan." If this is thought to be unappealing, another method has been suggested. "Sift the flour and add some water, placing it in a wooden container, changing the water twice a day for ten days. After that time, drain the water and transfer the paste to another container. It should be adjusted to the consistency of thick dregs and then strained through a piece of new linen. Repeat this last step, then dry the mixture in the sun and cook it in milk. Season to taste." These are examples of ancient puddings, and this last recipe was particularly favored by the Romans.
1178. HOWEVER GREAT MAY HAVE BEEN THE QUALIFICATIONS of the ancients, however, in the art of pudding-making, we apprehend that such preparations as gave gratification to their palates, would have generally found little favour amongst the insulated inhabitants of Great Britain. Here, from the simple suet dumpling up to the most complicated Christmas production, the grand feature of substantiality is primarily attended to. Variety in the ingredients, we think, is held only of secondary consideration with the great body of the people, provided that the whole is agreeable and of sufficient abundance.
1178. NO MATTER HOW GREAT THE QUALIFICATIONS of the ancients were, we believe that the types of puddings they enjoyed would not have been very popular among the isolated inhabitants of Great Britain. Here, from the basic suet dumpling to the most elaborate Christmas pudding, the main focus is on substance. We think that the variety of ingredients is only a secondary concern for most people, as long as the final dish is pleasing and generously portioned.
1179. ALTHOUGH FROM PUDDINGS TO PASTRY is but a step, it requires a higher degree of art to make the one than to make the other. Indeed, pastry is one of the most important branches of the culinary science. It unceasingly occupies itself with ministering pleasure to the sight as well as to the taste; with erecting graceful monuments, miniature fortresses, and all kinds of architectural imitations, composed of the sweetest and most agreeable products of all climates and countries. At a very early period, the Orientals were acquainted with the art of manipulating in pastry; but they by no means attained to the taste, variety, and splendour of design, by which it is characterized amongst the moderns. At first it generally consisted of certain mixtures of flour, oil, and honey, to which it was confined for centuries, even among the southern nations of the European continent. At the commencement of the middle ages, a change began to take place in the art of mixing it. Eggs, butter, and salt came into repute in the making of paste, which was forthwith used as an inclosure for meat, seasoned with spices. This advance attained, the next step was to inclose cream, fruit, and marmalades; and the next, to build pyramids and castles; when the summit of the art of the pastry-cook may be supposed to have been achieved.
1179. WHILE GOING FROM PUDDINGS TO PASTRY might seem like a small leap, it actually takes a higher level of skill to make one than the other. In fact, pastry is one of the most essential areas of culinary arts. It continuously focuses on pleasing both the eye and the palate, creating elegant structures, tiny fortresses, and various architectural replicas made from the sweetest and most delightful ingredients from around the world. Early on, people in the East were familiar with the art of pastry-making, but they did not reach the taste, variety, and beauty of design that characterizes modern pastry. Initially, it mostly consisted of simple mixtures of flour, oil, and honey, which remained unchanged for centuries, even among southern European nations. As the Middle Ages began, the art of mixing pastry started to evolve. Ingredients like eggs, butter, and salt became popular in pastry-making, which then began to be used to encase meat seasoned with spices. Once this progress was made, the next step was to encase cream, fruits, and jams; eventually leading to the creation of pyramids and castles, which marked the peak of pastry-making skills.
DIRECTIONS IN CONNECTION WITH THE MAKING OF PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.
1180. A few general remarks respecting the various ingredients of which puddings and pastry are composed, may be acceptable as preliminary to the recipes in this department of Household Management.
1180. A few general remarks about the different ingredients used in puddings and pastries may be helpful as an introduction to the recipes in this section of Household Management.
1181. Flour should be of the best quality, and perfectly dry, and sifted before being used; if in the least damp, the paste made from it will certainly be heavy.
1181. Flour should be of the highest quality, completely dry, and sifted before use; if it’s even slightly damp, the dough made from it will definitely be heavy.
1182. Butter, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt, and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water and buttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy.
1182. Butter, unless fresh, should be rinsed to remove the salt and thoroughly squeezed in a cloth to eliminate all the water and buttermilk, which, if left in, will make the paste heavy.
1183. Lard should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained by cutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard is good.
1183. Lard should be completely sweet, which can be checked by cutting through the bladder, and if the knife smells sweet, the lard is good.
1184. Suet should be finely chopped, perfectly free from skin, and quite sweet; during the process of chopping, it should be lightly dredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together. Beef suet is considered the best; but veal suet, or the outside fat of a loin or neck of mutton, makes good crusts; as also the skimmings in which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but without vegetables.
1184. Suet should be finely chopped, completely free of skin, and quite sweet; while chopping, it should be lightly dusted with flour to prevent the pieces from sticking together. Beef suet is preferred, but veal suet or the outer fat of a loin or neck of mutton also makes good crusts; as do the drippings from boiling a joint of mutton, but without any vegetables.
1185. Clarified Beef Dripping, directions for which will be found in recipes Nos. 621 and 622, answers very well for kitchen pies, puddings, cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be made by mixing with it a small quantity of moist sugar; but care must be taken to use the dripping sparingly, or a very disagreeable flavour will be imparted to the paste.
1185. Clarified Beef Dripping, directions for which will be found in recipes Nos. 621 and 622, works perfectly for kitchen pies, puddings, cakes, or for family use. A great short crust can be made by mixing it with a small amount of moist sugar; however, it's important to use the dripping sparingly, or it will give the dough an unpleasant flavor.
1186. Strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry-making; all the utensils used should be perfectly free from dust and dirt, and the things required for pastry, kept entirely for that purpose.
1186. Strict cleanliness must be maintained in pastry-making; all the utensils used should be completely free from dust and dirt, and the items needed for pastry should be kept solely for that purpose.
[Illustration: PASTE-BOARD AND ROLLING-PIN.]
[Illustration: Cutting board and rolling pin.]
1187. In mixing paste, add the water very gradually, work the whole together with the knife-blade, and knead it until perfectly smooth. Those who are inexperienced in pastry-making, should work the butter in by breaking it in small pieces and covering the paste rolled out. It should then be dredged with flour, and the ends folded over and rolled out very thin again: this process must be repeated until all the butter is used.
1187. When mixing the dough, gradually add the water, combine everything using a knife, and knead it until it's completely smooth. If you’re not experienced in making pastries, break the butter into small pieces and spread it over the rolled-out dough. Then, dust it with flour, fold the edges over, and roll it out thin again. Repeat this process until all the butter is incorporated.
[Illustration: PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OF
PIE-CRUSTS.]
[Illustration: PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OF
PIE-CRUSTS.]
1188. The art of making paste requires much practice, dexterity, and skill: it should be touched as lightly as possible, made with cool hands and in a cool place (a marble slab is better than a board for the purpose), and the coolest part of the house should be selected for the process during warm weather.
1188. The art of making paste requires a lot of practice, finesse, and skill: it should be handled as gently as possible, made with cool hands and in a cool environment (a marble slab works better than a board for this), and the coolest part of the house should be chosen for the process during warm weather.
1189. To insure rich paste being light, great expedition must be used in the making and baking; for if it stand long before it is put in the oven, it becomes flat and heavy.
1189. To ensure that rich pastry is light, you need to work quickly during the making and baking process; if it sits too long before being put in the oven, it will become flat and heavy.
[Illustration: PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER.]
[Illustration: PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER.]
[Illustration: ORNAMENTAL-PASTE CUTTER.]
[Illustration: Decorative paste cutter.]
1190. Puff-paste requires a brisk oven, but not too hot, or it would blacken the crust; on the other hand, if the oven be too slack, the paste will be soddened, and will not rise, nor will it have any colour. Tart-tins, cake-moulds, dishes for baked puddings, pattypans, &c., should all be buttered before the article intended to be baked is put in them: things to be baked on sheets should be placed on buttered paper. Raised-pie paste should have a soaking heat, and paste glazed must have rather a slack oven, that the icing be not scorched. It is better to ice tarts, &c. when they are three-parts baked.
1190. Puff pastry needs a hot oven, but not too hot, or the crust will burn; on the flip side, if the oven is too cool, the pastry will get soggy and won’t rise or develop any color. Tart pans, cake molds, dishes for baked puddings, patty pans, etc., should all be buttered before adding the items to be baked. Items baked on sheets should be placed on buttered paper. Raised pie pastry requires a good heat, and glazed pastry should be in a cooler oven to avoid scorching the icing. It's better to ice tarts, etc. when they are about three-quarters baked.
[Illustration: PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED.]
[Illustration: PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED.]
[Illustration: PIE-DISH.]
[Illustration: pie dish.]
[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD.]
[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOLD.]
[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOULD, OPEN.]
[Illustration: RAISED-PIE MOLD, OPEN.]
1191. To ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree for puff-paste, put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking the whole, and then the heat can thus be judged of.
1191. To check if the oven is at the right temperature for puff pastry, place a small piece of the pastry inside before baking the entire batch, and then you can gauge the heat.
1192. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as one bad article will taint the whole mixture.
1192. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is very important, as one bad item will ruin the entire mixture.
1193. When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one separately in a cup, before mixing them altogether. Should there be a bad one amongst them, it can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with the good ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yolks and whites beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter.
1193. When you’re unsure about the freshness of eggs, crack each one into a cup separately before mixing them all together. If one is bad, you can discard it; otherwise, if it’s combined with the good ones, it will ruin the entire batch. Beating the yolks and whites separately makes whatever you're preparing much lighter.
1194. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked, and, in many cases, stoned. Currants should be well washed, pressed in a cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they should then be picked carefully over, and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water over them, and then dry them before the fire.
1194. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully selected, and in many cases, pitted. Currants should be well washed, pressed in a cloth, and placed on a dish in front of the fire to dry completely; they should then be carefully checked, and every piece of grit or stone should be removed from them. To plump them up, some cooks pour boiling water over them and then dry them in front of the fire.
1195. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To insure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, and add the remainder by degrees. Should the pudding be very lumpy, it may be strained through a hair sieve.
1195. Batter pudding should be mixed until smooth and free from lumps. To ensure this, first combine the flour with a tiny amount of milk, then gradually add the rest. If the pudding is still very lumpy, you can strain it through a fine sieve.
1196. All boiled puddings should be put on in boiling water, which must not be allowed to stop simmering, and the pudding must always be covered with the water; if requisite, the saucepan should be kept filled up.
1196. All boiled puddings should be placed in boiling water, which must not be allowed to stop simmering, and the pudding must always be covered with the water; if necessary, the saucepan should be kept filled up.
[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.]
[Illustration: Boiled Pudding Mold.]
1197. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan, place a small plate or saucer underneath it, and set the pan on a trivet over the fire. If a mould is used, this precaution is not necessary; but care must be taken to keep the pudding well covered with water.
1197. To stop a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan, put a small plate or saucer underneath it, and place the pan on a trivet over the fire. If you're using a mold, you don't need to do this; just make sure to keep the pudding well covered with water.
1198. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot, dip it into a basin of cold water, and the cloth will then not adhere to it. Great expedition is necessary in sending puddings to table, as, by standing, they quickly become heavy, batter puddings particularly.
1198. To serve a boiled pudding right after it comes out of the pot, dip it in a basin of cold water so that the cloth won’t stick to it. It’s important to serve puddings quickly because they get heavy if they sit, especially batter puddings.
[Illustration: BOILED-PUDDING MOULD.]
[Illustration: Steamed Pudding Mould.]
1199. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or basins, should be always buttered before the mixture is put in them, and they should be put into the saucepan directly they are filled.
1199. For baked or boiled puddings, always butter the molds, cups, or basins before pouring in the mixture, and place them in the saucepan immediately after they’re filled.
1200. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the cleanliness of pudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this particular, the outsides of boiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeably. As soon as possible after it is taken off the pudding, it should be soaked in water, and then well washed, without soap, unless it be very greasy. It should be dried out of doors, then folded up and kept in a dry place. When wanted for use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour.
1200. It's important to pay close attention to the cleanliness of pudding cloths because neglecting this can make the outside of boiled puddings taste really unpleasant. As soon as possible after removing it from the pudding, soak the cloth in water and wash it thoroughly without soap, unless it's very greasy. Let it dry outdoors, then fold it and store it in a dry place. When you're ready to use it, dip it in boiling water and lightly dust it with flour.
[Illustration: PUDDING-BASIN.]
[Illustration: PUDDING-BASIN.]
1201. The dry ingredients for puddings are better for being mixed some time before they are wanted; the liquid portion should only be added just before the pudding is put into the saucepan.
1201. The dry ingredients for puddings are better mixed a while before they’re needed; the liquid part should only be added right before the pudding goes into the saucepan.
1202. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the generality of puddings; but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the flavour should not be detected.
1202. A pinch of salt enhances the flavor of puddings; however, this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as its taste shouldn’t be noticeable.
1203. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them fine sifted sugar.
1203. When baked puddings are firm enough, turn them out of the dish they were baked in, with the bottom facing up, and sprinkle fine sifted sugar over them.
1204. When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly cooked: this prevents them from getting burnt.
1204. When pastry or baked puddings are not fully cooked inside, but the outside is brown enough, cover them with a piece of white paper until they’re completely cooked: this keeps them from burning.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXVII.
VERY GOOD PUFF-PASTE.
1205. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 1 lb. of butter, and not quite 1/2 pint of water.
1205. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 1 pound of butter, and just under 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Carefully weigh the flour and butter, and have the exact proportion; squeeze the butter well, to extract the water from it, and afterwards wring it in a clean cloth, that no moisture may remain. Sift the flour; see that it is perfectly dry, and proceed in the following manner to make the paste, using a very clean paste-board and rolling-pin:—Supposing the quantity to be 1 lb. of flour, work the whole into a smooth paste, with not quite 1/2 pint of water, using a knife to mix it with: the proportion of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the discretion of the cook; if too much be added, the paste, when baked, will be tough. Roll it out until it is of an equal thickness of about an inch; break 4 oz. of the butter into small pieces; place these on the paste, sift over it a little flour, fold it over, roll out again, and put another 4 oz. of butter. Repeat the rolling and buttering until the paste has been rolled out 4 times, or equal quantities of flour and butter have been used. Do not omit, every time the paste is rolled out, to dredge a little flour over that and the rolling-pin, to prevent both from sticking. Handle the paste as lightly as possible, and do not press heavily upon it with the rolling-pin. The next thing to be considered is the oven, as the baking of pastry requires particular attention. Do not put it into the oven until it is sufficiently hot to raise the paste; for the best-prepared paste, if not properly baked, will be good for nothing. Brushing the paste as often as rolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white of an egg, assists it to rise in leaves or flakes. As this is the great beauty of puff-paste, it is as well to try this method.
Method.—Carefully measure the flour and butter to get the exact amounts; squeeze the butter well to remove any water, and then wring it out in a clean cloth to ensure no moisture remains. Sift the flour and make sure it's completely dry. Follow these steps to make the dough, using a very clean pastry board and rolling pin:—Assuming you're using 1 lb. of flour, mix it into a smooth dough with just under 1/2 pint of water, using a knife to combine. Adjust the water based on your judgment; if you add too much, the dough will turn out tough when baked. Roll it out to an even thickness of about an inch. Cut 4 oz. of butter into small pieces; place them on the dough, sprinkle a little flour over it, fold it over, roll it out again, and add another 4 oz. of butter. Continue rolling and adding butter until you've rolled out the dough 4 times or used equal amounts of flour and butter. Always sprinkle a bit of flour over the dough and the rolling pin each time to prevent sticking. Handle the dough as gently as possible and avoid pressing too hard with the rolling pin. Next, consider the oven, as baking pastry requires careful attention. Only put it in the oven when it’s hot enough to puff up the dough; even the best-prepared dough won't turn out well if not baked properly. Brushing the dough with egg white every time it's rolled out, along with the pieces of butter added, helps it rise into layers or flakes. Since this is the key to the beauty of puff pastry, it’s worth trying this method.
Average cost, 1s. 4d. per lb.
Average cost, 6.5 pence per lb.
BUTTER.—About the second century of the Christian era, butter was placed by Galen amongst the useful medical agents; and about a century before him, Dioscorides mentioned that he had noticed that fresh butter, made of ewes' and goats' milk, was served at meals instead of oil, and that it took the place of fat in making pastry. Thus we have undoubted authority that, eighteen hundred years ago, there existed a knowledge of the useful qualities of butter. The Romans seem to have set about making it much as we do; for Pliny tells us, "Butter is made from milk; and the use of this element, so much sought after by barbarous nations, distinguished the rich from the common people. It is obtained principally from cows' milk; that from ewes is the fattest; goats also supply some. It is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with narrow openings: a little water is added."
BUTTER.—Around the second century AD, Galen included butter among the useful medical agents; and about a century earlier, Dioscorides noted that fresh butter, made from sheep's and goat's milk, was served at meals instead of oil and that it was used as fat in baking. This clearly shows that, eighteen hundred years ago, people recognized the beneficial qualities of butter. The Romans appeared to have made it in a way similar to ours; Pliny tells us, "Butter is made from milk; and the use of this ingredient, so highly valued by uncivilized nations, set the wealthy apart from the common folk. It is mainly produced from cow's milk; that from sheep is the richest; goats also provide some. It is made by churning the milk in long containers with narrow openings: a little water is added."
MEDIUM PUFF-PASTE.
1206. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of lard, not quite 1/2 pint of water.
1206. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 8 ounces of butter, 4 ounces of lard, and just under half a pint of water.
Mode.—This paste may be made by the directions in the preceding recipe, only using less butter and substituting lard for a portion of it. Mix the flour to a smooth paste with not quite 1/2 pint of water; then roll it out 3 times, the first time covering the paste with butter, the second with lard, and the third with butter. Keep the rolling-pin and paste slightly dredged with flour, to prevent them from sticking, and it will be ready for use.
Mode.—You can make this paste by following the steps in the previous recipe, but use less butter and replace some of it with lard. Combine the flour with just under 1/2 pint of water to create a smooth paste; then roll it out three times, using butter for the first rolling, lard for the second, and butter again for the third. Dust the rolling pin and the paste lightly with flour to keep them from sticking, and it will be ready to use.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Average cost, £1 per lb.
BUTTER IN HASTE.—In his "History of Food," Soyer says that to obtain butter instantly, it is only necessary, in summer, to put new milk into a bottle, some hours after it has been taken from the cow, and shake it briskly. The clots which are thus formed should be thrown into a sieve, washed and pressed together, and they constitute the finest and most delicate butter that can possibly be made.
BUTTER IN HASTE.—In his "History of Food," Soyer says that to get butter quickly, all you need to do in the summer is pour fresh milk into a bottle a few hours after it's taken from the cow and shake it well. The clumps that form should be put into a sieve, rinsed, and pressed together, and this will create the finest and most delicate butter possible.
COMMON PASTE, for Family Pies.
COMMON PASTE, for family pies.
1207. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, rather more than 1/2 pint of water.
1207. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/4 lbs. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, slightly more than 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Rub the butter lightly into the flour, and mix it to a smooth paste with the water; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and it will be ready for use. This paste may be converted into an excellent short crust for sweet tart, by adding to the flour, after the butter is rubbed in, 2 tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sugar.
Mode.—Gently mix the butter into the flour until it's combined, then stir in enough water to create a smooth dough; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and it will be ready to use. You can turn this dough into a great shortcrust for sweet tarts by adding 2 tablespoons of fine-sifted sugar to the flour after the butter is mixed in.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
TO KEEP BUTTER FRESH.—One of the best means to preserve butter fresh is, first to completely press out all the buttermilk, then to keep it under water, renewing the water frequently, and to remove it from the influence of heat and air, by wrapping it in a wet cloth.
TO KEEP BUTTER FRESH.—One of the best ways to keep butter fresh is to first squeeze out all the buttermilk, then keep it submerged in water, changing the water often, and to protect it from heat and air by wrapping it in a damp cloth.
FRENCH PUFF-PASTE, or FEUILLETAGE.
FRENCH PUFF PASTRY, or FEUILLETAGE.
(Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.)
(Based on M. Ude's Recipe.)
1208. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of flour and butter—say 1 lb. of each; 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more than 1/4 pint of water.
1208. INGREDIENTS.—Equal amounts of flour and butter—about 1 lb. of each; 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, and just over 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—Weigh the flour; ascertain that it is perfectly dry, and sift it; squeeze all the water from the butter, and wring it in a clean cloth till there is no moisture remaining. Put the flour on the paste-board, work lightly into it 2 oz. of the butter, and then make a hole in the centre; into this well put the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about 1/4 pint of water (the quantity of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the cook, as it is impossible to give the exact proportion of it); knead up the paste quickly and lightly, and, when quite smooth, roll it out square to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Presuming that the butter is perfectly free from moisture, and as cool as possible, roll it into a ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste; fold the paste over the butter all round, and secure it by wrapping it well all over. Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling-pin until it is quite thin, but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through, and keep the board and paste dredged lightly with flour during the process of making it. This rolling gives it the first turn. Now fold the paste in three, and roll out again, and, should the weather be very warm, put it in a cold place on the ground to cool between the several turns; for, unless this is particularly attended to, the paste will be spoiled. Roll out the paste again twice, put it by to cool, then roll it out twice more, which will make 6 turnings in all. Now fold the paste in two, and it will be ready for use. If properly baked and well made, this crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven about 5 or 6 inches. The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance, as the ball of butter is liable to break through. Great attention must also be paid to keeping the butter very cool, as, if this is in a liquid and soft state, the paste will not answer at all. Should the cook be dexterous enough to succeed in making this, the paste will have a much better appearance than that made by the process of dividing the butter into 4 parts, and placing it over the rolled-out paste; but, until experience has been acquired, we recommend puff-paste made by recipe No. 1205. The above paste is used for vols-au-vent, small articles of pastry, and, in fact, everything that requires very light crust.
Method.—Weigh the flour; make sure it's completely dry, and sift it; squeeze all the water out of the butter, and wring it in a clean cloth until there's no moisture left. Put the flour on a clean surface, work in 2 oz. of butter lightly, and then create a hole in the center; into this well, add the yolks of 2 eggs, salt, and about 1/4 pint of water (the amount of water should be adjusted by the cook since it's impossible to provide an exact measurement); knead the dough quickly and lightly, and when it's smooth, roll it out into a square about 1/2 inch thick. Assuming the butter is completely dry and as cool as possible, roll it into a ball and place it on the dough; fold the dough over the butter all around and seal it well. Flatten the dough by rolling it lightly with a rolling pin until it's thin, but not so thin that the butter breaks through, and keep the surface and dough lightly dusted with flour during this process. This rolling gives it the first turn. Now fold the dough in thirds and roll it out again, and if the weather is very warm, cool it in a cold spot between rolls; if this is not done carefully, the dough will be ruined. Roll the dough out again twice, let it cool, then roll it out twice more, which totals 6 turnings. Now fold the dough in half, and it will be ready to use. If baked properly and made well, this crust will be delicious and should rise in the oven about 5 or 6 inches. The dough should be made fairly firm initially since the butter can easily break through. It’s essential to keep the butter very cool because, if it’s liquid and soft, the dough won't work. If the cook can master this technique, the dough will have a much better appearance than if the butter were divided into 4 parts and placed over the rolled-out dough; however, until you gain experience, we recommend making puff pastry according to recipe No. 1205. The dough described above is used for vol-au-vent, small pastries, and really everything that requires a very light crust.
Average cost, 1s. 6d. per lb.
Average cost, £0.075 per lb.
WHAT TO DO WITH RANCID BUTTER.—When butter has become very rancid, it should be melted several times by a moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and as soon as it has been well kneaded, after the cooling, in order to extract any water it may have retained, it should be put into brown freestone pots, sheltered from the contact of the air. The French often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of toasted bread, which helps to destroy the tendency of the batter to rancidity.
WHAT TO DO WITH RANCID BUTTER.—When butter has gone really rancid, it should be melted several times over low heat, with or without adding water. Once it has been thoroughly kneaded after cooling to remove any water it might have kept, it should be stored in brown stoneware pots away from air exposure. The French often add a piece of toasted bread to it after melting, which helps prevent the butter from becoming rancid.
SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE.
1209. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow the yolk of 1 egg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, cold water, 1 lb. of fresh butter.
1209. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use the yolk of 1 egg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 a saltspoon of salt, cold water, and 1 pound of fresh butter.
Mode.—Put the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put the yolk of the egg, the lemon-juice, and salt; mix the whole with cold water (this should be iced in summer, if convenient) into a soft flexible paste, with the right hand, and handle it as little as possible; then squeeze all the buttermilk from the butter, wring it in a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the butter on this, and fold the edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; roll it out again to the thickness of 1/4 inch; fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square; place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again, as before. Flour a baking-sheet, put the paste on this, and let it remain on ice or in some cool place for 1/2 hour; then roll twice more, turning it as before; place it again upon the ice for 1/4 hour, give it 2 more rolls, making 7 in all, and it is ready for use when required.
Method.—Put the flour on a clean surface; make a well in the center, and add the egg yolk, lemon juice, and salt. Mix everything with cold water (it’s best if the water is iced in summer, if possible) to make a soft, flexible dough, using your right hand and handling it as little as you can. Next, squeeze all the buttermilk from the butter, wring it out in a cloth, and roll out the dough. Put the butter on the dough and fold the edges over to cover it. Roll it out again to about 1/4 inch thick; fold it into thirds, rolling over it with the rolling pin after each fold to flatten it out. Place it with the ends facing you, shaking a little flour underneath and on top, and repeat the rolling and folding process two more times. Flour a baking sheet, place the dough on it, and let it chill in the refrigerator or a cool spot for 30 minutes. Then roll it out twice more, turning it as before, and chill it again for 15 minutes. Roll it out two more times, for a total of 7 rolls, and it will be ready to use when needed.
Average cost, 1s. 6d. per lb.
Average cost, £0.07 per lb.
VERY GOOD SHORT CRUST FOR FRUIT TARTS.
1210. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 3/4 lb. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of sifted sugar, 1/3 pint of water.
1210. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 3/4 pound of butter, 1 tablespoon of sifted sugar, and 1/3 pint of water.
Mode.—Rub the butter into the flour, after having ascertained that the latter is perfectly dry; add the sugar, and mix the whole into a stiff paste, with about 1/3 pint of water. Roll it out two or three times, folding the paste over each time, and it will be ready for use.
Mode.—Mix the butter into the flour, making sure the flour is completely dry; add the sugar, and combine everything into a stiff dough with about 1/3 pint of water. Roll it out two or three times, folding the dough over each time, and it will be ready to use.
Average cost, 1s. 1d. per lb.
Average cost, 1 shilling 1 penny per lb.
ANOTHER GOOD SHORT CRUST.
1211. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, about 1/4 pint of milk.
1211. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 8 ounces of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 ounces of sifted sugar, and about 1/4 pint of milk.
Mode.—Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and mix the whole as lightly as possible to a smooth paste, with the yolks of eggs well beaten, and the milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient must be judged of by the size of the eggs: if these are large, so much will not be required, and more if the eggs are smaller.
Mode.—Blend the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and stir everything together gently to create a smooth paste, incorporating the well-beaten egg yolks and the milk. The amount of milk needed depends on the size of the eggs: if they're large, you won't need as much, and you'll need more if the eggs are smaller.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Average cost, £1 per lb.
SUGAR AND BEETROOT.—There are two sorts of Beet,—white and red; occasionally, in the south, a yellow variety is met with. Beetroot contains twenty parts sugar. Everybody knows that the beet has competed with the sugar-cane, and a great part of the French sugar is manufactured from beet. Beetroot has a refreshing, composing, and slightly purgative quality. The young leaves, when cooked, are a substitute for spinach; they are also useful for mixing with sorrel, to lessen its acidity. The large ribs of the leaves are serviceable in various culinary preparations; the root also may be prepared in several ways, but its most general use is in salad. Some writers upon the subject have expressed their opinion that beetroot is easily digested, but those who have taken pains to carefully analyze its qualities make quite a contrary statement. Youth, of course, can digest it; but to persons of a certain age beet is very indigestible, or rather, it does not digest at all. It is not the sugary pulp which is indigestible, but its fibrous network that resists the action of the gastric organs. Thus, when the root is reduced to a puree, almost any person may eat it.
SUGAR AND BEETROOT.—There are two types of beet—white and red; occasionally, in the south, a yellow variety is found. Beetroot has twenty parts sugar. It's well-known that beet has gone head-to-head with sugarcane, and a significant amount of French sugar is made from beet. Beetroot has a refreshing, calming, and slightly laxative effect. The young leaves, when cooked, can be a substitute for spinach; they’re also useful for mixing with sorrel to reduce its acidity. The large veins of the leaves are helpful in various recipes; the root can also be prepared in many ways, but its most common use is in salads. Some authors on the topic have stated that beetroot is easy to digest, but those who have thoroughly analyzed its qualities say the opposite. Of course, young people can digest it, but for older individuals, beet is very hard to digest, or rather, it doesn’t digest at all. It’s not the sugary flesh that’s hard to digest, but its fibrous structure that resists the action of the stomach. Therefore, when the root is turned into a puree, almost anyone can eat it.
FRENCH SUGAR.—It had long been thought that tropical heat was not necessary to form sugar, and, about 1740, it was discovered that many plants of the temperate zone, and amongst others the beet, contained it. Towards the beginning of the 19th century, circumstances having, in France, made sugar scarce, and consequently dear, the government caused inquiries to be instituted as to the possibility of finding a substitute for it. Accordingly, it was ascertained that sugar exists in the whole vegetable kingdom; that it is to be found in the grape, chestnut, potato; but that, far above all, the beet contains it in a large proportion. Thus the beet became an object of the most careful culture; and many experiments went to prove that in this respect the old world was independent of the new. Many manufactories came into existence in all parts of France, and the making of sugar became naturalized in that country.
FRENCH SUGAR.—For a long time, people believed that tropical heat was necessary to produce sugar. However, around 1740, it was discovered that many plants in temperate regions, including beets, contained it. At the beginning of the 19th century, due to sugar shortages in France, the government started investigating alternatives. They found that sugar is present in the entire vegetable kingdom; it can be found in grapes, chestnuts, and potatoes, but the beet contains it in much larger amounts. As a result, beets became the focus of careful cultivation, and numerous experiments demonstrated that the Old World could produce sugar without relying on the New World. Many factories were established throughout France, and sugar production became well established in the country.
COMMON SHORT CRUST.
1212. INGREDIENTS.—To every pound of flour allow 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of boiling milk.
1212. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 oz. of butter, and about 1/2 pint of boiling milk.
Mode.—Crumble the butter into the flour as finely as possible, add the sugar, and work the whole up to a smooth paste with the boiling milk. Roll it out thin, and bake in a moderate oven.
Mode.—Break the butter into the flour as finely as you can, add the sugar, and mix everything together to form a smooth paste with the boiling milk. Roll it out thin, and bake in a medium oven.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
QUALITIES OF SUGAR.—Sugars obtained from various plants are in fact, of the same nature, and have no intrinsic difference when they have become equally purified by the same processes. Taste, crystallization, colour, weight, are absolutely identical; and the most accurate observer cannot distinguish the one from the other.
QUALITIES OF SUGAR.—Sugars sourced from different plants are essentially the same and have no inherent differences once they are purified through the same methods. Their taste, crystallization, color, and weight are all completely identical; even the most precise observer cannot tell them apart.
BUTTER CRUST, for Boiled Puddings.
Butter Crust for Boiled Puddings.
1213. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water.
1213. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 6 ounces of butter and 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—With a knife, work the flour to a smooth paste with 1/2 pint of water; roll the crust out rather thin; place the butter over it in small pieces; dredge lightly over it some flour, and fold the paste over; repeat the rolling once more, and the crust will be ready for use. It may be enriched by adding another 2 oz. of butter; but, for ordinary purposes, the above quantity will be found quite sufficient.
Mode.—Using a knife, mix the flour with 1/2 pint of water until you have a smooth paste; roll the crust out fairly thin; place small pieces of butter over it; lightly sprinkle some flour on top, and then fold the paste over; roll it out again, and the crust will be ready to use. You can enhance it by adding another 2 oz. of butter, but for regular use, the amount mentioned will be more than enough.
Average cost, 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 6p. per lb.
DRIPPING CRUST, for Kitchen Puddings, Pies, &c.
DRIPPING CRUST, for Kitchen Puddings, Pies, &c.
1214. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of clarified beef dripping, 1/2 pint of water.
1214. INGREDIENTS.—For each pound of flour, use 6 ounces of clarified beef fat and 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—After having clarified the dripping, by either of the recipes No. 621 or 622, weigh it, and to every lb. of flour allow the above proportion of dripping. With a knife, work the flour into a smooth paste with the water, rolling it out 3 times, each time placing on the crust 2 oz. of the dripping, broken into small pieces. If this paste is lightly made, if good dripping is used, and not too much of it, it will be found good; and by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of fine moist sugar, it may be converted into a common short crust for fruit pies.
Method.—After clarifying the dripping using either recipe No. 621 or 622, weigh it, and for every pound of flour, use the specified amount of dripping. With a knife, mix the flour with water to form a smooth dough, rolling it out three times, adding 2 oz. of dripping, cut into small pieces, each time to the crust. If this dough is prepared lightly, if quality dripping is used, and not too much of it, the result will be good; by adding two tablespoons of fine moist sugar, it can be turned into a standard short crust for fruit pies.
Average cost, 4d. per pound.
Average cost, 4d. per lb.
WATER:—WHAT THE ANCIENTS THOUGHT OF IT.—All the nations of antiquity possessed great veneration for water: thus, the Egyptians offered prayers and homage to water, and the Nile was an especial object of their adoration; the Persians would not wash their hands; the Scythians honoured the Danube; the Greeks and Romans erected altars to the fountains and rivers; and some of the architectural embellishments executed for fountains in Greece were remarkable for their beauty and delicacy. The purity of the water was a great object of the care of the ancients; and we learn that the Athenians appointed four officers to keep watch and ward over the water in their city. These men had to keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs, so that the water might be preserved pure and limpid. Like officers were appointed in other Greek cities.
WATER:—WHAT THE ANCIENTS THOUGHT OF IT.—All the ancient nations had a deep respect for water. The Egyptians prayed to and honored water, especially venerating the Nile. The Persians avoided washing their hands, while the Scythians respected the Danube. The Greeks and Romans built altars for their fountains and rivers, and some of the architectural designs for fountains in Greece were known for their beauty and elegance. The cleanliness of water was a significant concern for the ancients; the Athenians even appointed four officials to oversee the water supply in their city. These individuals were responsible for maintaining the fountains and cleaning the reservoirs to ensure the water stayed pure and clear. Similar officials were assigned in other Greek cities.
SUET CRUST, for Pies or Puddings.
SUET CRUST, for Pies or Puddings.
1215. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 5 or 6 oz. of beef suet, 1/2 pint of water.
1215. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 5 or 6 ounces of beef suet and 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Free the suet from skin and shreds; chop it extremely fine, and rub it well into the flour; work the whole to a smooth paste with the above proportion of water; roll it out, and it is ready for use. This crust is quite rich enough for ordinary purposes, but when a better one is desired, use from 1/2 to 3/4 lb. of suet to every lb. of flour. Some cooks, for rich crusts, pound the suet in a mortar, with a small quantity of butter. It should then be laid on the paste in small pieces, the same as for puff-crust, and will be found exceedingly nice for hot tarts. 5 oz. of suet to every lb. of flour will make a very good crust; and even 1/4 lb. will answer very well for children, or where the crust is wanted very plain.
Mode.—Remove the skin and any bits from the suet; chop it very finely, and mix it thoroughly into the flour. Combine everything with the specified amount of water to form a smooth paste; roll it out, and it's ready to use. This crust is rich enough for most purposes, but if you want something better, use between 1/2 and 3/4 lb. of suet for every lb. of flour. Some cooks, for a richer crust, pound the suet in a mortar with a little butter. Then, place it on the paste in small pieces, just like for puff pastry, and it will be excellent for hot tarts. Using 5 oz. of suet for every lb. of flour will create a very good crust; even 1/4 lb. is sufficient for kids or when a simpler crust is needed.
Average cost, 5d. per lb.
Average cost, 5d. per lb.
PATE BRISEE, or FRENCH CRUST, for Raised Pies.
PATE BRISEE, or FRENCH CRUST, for Raised Pies.
1216. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, 1/3 pint of water, 6 oz. of butter.
1216. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 1/2 saltspoon of salt, 2 eggs, 1/3 pint of water, and 6 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Spread the flour, which should be sifted and thoroughly dry, on the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put the butter; work it lightly into the flour, and when quite fine, add the salt; work the whole into a smooth paste with the eggs (yolks and whites) and water, and make it very firm. Knead the paste well, and let it be rather stiff, that the sides of the pie may be easily raised, and that they do not afterwards tumble or shrink.
Method.—Spread the flour, which should be sifted and completely dry, on the countertop; create a well in the center and add the butter. Mix it gently into the flour, and once it's well incorporated, add the salt. Combine everything into a smooth dough using the eggs (both yolks and whites) and water, making it quite firm. Knead the dough thoroughly and ensure it’s somewhat stiff, so the sides of the pie can be easily lifted and won’t collapse or shrink later.
Average cost, 1s. per lb.
Average cost, 1 shilling per lb.
Note.—This paste may be very much enriched by making it with equal quantities of flour and butter; but then it is not so easily raised as when made plainer.
Note.—This paste can be greatly enhanced by using equal amounts of flour and butter; however, it won't rise as easily as when it's made more simply.
WATER SUPPLY IN ROME.—Nothing in Italy is more extraordinary than the remains of the ancient aqueducts. At first, the Romans were contented with the water from the Tiber. Ancus Martius was the first to commence the building of aqueducts destined to convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome, a distance of some 33,000 paces. Appius Claudius continued the good work, and to him is due the completion of the celebrated Appian Way. In time, the gigantic waterways greatly multiplied, and, by the reign of Nero, there were constructed nine principal aqueducts, the pipes of which were of bricks, baked tiles, stone, lead, or wood. According to the calculation of Vigenerus, half a million hogsheads of water were conveyed into Rome every day, by upwards of 10,000 small pipes not one-third of an inch in diameter. The water was received in large closed basins, above which rose splendid monuments: these basins supplied other subterranean conduits, connected with various quarters of the city, and these conveyed water to small reservoirs furnished with taps for the exclusive use of certain streets. The water which was not drinkable ran out, by means of large pipes, into extensive inclosures, where it served to water cattle. At these places the people wished their linen; and here, too, was a supply of the necessary element in case of fire.
WATER SUPPLY IN ROME.—Nothing in Italy is more remarkable than the remains of the ancient aqueducts. Initially, the Romans relied on water from the Tiber River. Ancus Martius was the first to start building aqueducts to bring water from the fountain of Piconia in Tibur to Rome, about 33,000 paces away. Appius Claudius continued this important work and is credited with completing the famous Appian Way. Over time, these massive waterways multiplied significantly, and by the time of Nero, nine main aqueducts had been constructed. The pipes were made of bricks, baked tiles, stone, lead, or wood. According to calculations by Vigenerus, about half a million hogsheads of water were brought into Rome each day through over 10,000 small pipes, each less than a third of an inch in diameter. The water was collected in large covered basins, which were topped with impressive monuments. These basins fed other underground pipes that connected different parts of the city, supplying water to small reservoirs equipped with taps for specific streets. Water that was not suitable for drinking was channeled through large pipes into expansive areas where it was used for watering livestock. In these spots, people washed their linen, and there was also a water supply available for emergencies like fires.
COMMON CRUST FOR RAISED PIES.
1217. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 pint of water, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of lard, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
1217. INGREDIENTS.—For every lb. of flour, use 1/2 pint of water, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of lard, and 1/2 saltspoon of salt.
Mode.—Put into a saucepan the water; when it boils, add the butter and lard; and when these are melted, make a hole in the middle of the flour; pour in the water gradually; beat it well with a wooden spoon, and be particular in not making the paste too soft. When it is well mixed, knead it with the hands until quite stiff, dredging a little flour over the paste and board, to prevent them from sticking. When it is well kneaded, place it before the fire, with a cloth covered over it, for a few minutes; it will then be more easily worked into shape. This paste does not taste so nicely as the preceding one, but is worked with greater facility, and answers just as well for raised pies, for the crust is seldom eaten.
Mode.—Put water in a saucepan; when it boils, add the butter and lard. Once these are melted, make a hole in the center of the flour; gradually pour in the water; stir it well with a wooden spoon, and be careful not to make the dough too soft. When it's well mixed, knead it by hand until it's quite stiff, sprinkling a little flour over the dough and the surface to prevent sticking. Once kneaded, place it by the fire, covered with a cloth, for a few minutes; this will make it easier to shape. This dough may not taste as good as the previous one, but it's easier to work with and works just as well for raised pies since the crust is rarely eaten.
Average cost, 5d, per lb.
Average cost, 5 days, per lb.
LARD OR FLEAD CRUST.
1218. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of lard or flead, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
1218. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 1/2 pound of lard or shortening, 1/2 pint of water, and 1/2 saltspoon of salt.
Mode.—Clear the flead free from skin, and slice it into thin flakes; rub it into the flour, add the salt, and work the whole into a smooth paste, with the above proportion of water; fold the paste over two or three times, beat it well with the rolling-pin, roll it out, and it will be ready for use. The crust made from this will be found extremely light, and may be made into cakes or tarts; it may also be very much enriched by adding more flead to the same proportion of flour.
Mode.—Remove the fat from the skin and cut it into thin pieces; mix it into the flour, add the salt, and knead everything into a smooth dough, using the specified amount of water. Fold the dough over two or three times, beat it well with a rolling pin, roll it out, and it will be ready to use. The crust made from this will be very light and can be used for cakes or tarts; it can also be made richer by adding more fat in the same ratio of flour.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
Average cost, 8d. per lb.
NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES OF FLOUR.—The gluten of grain and the albumen of vegetable juices are identical in composition with the albumen of blood. Vegetable caseine has also the composition of animal caseine. The finest wheat flour contains more starch than the coarser; the bran of wheat is proportionably richer in gluten. Rye and rye-bread contain a substance resembling starch-gum (or dextrine, as it is called) in its properties, which is very easily converted into sugar. The starch of barley approaches in many properties to cellulose, and is, therefore, less digestible. Oats are particularly rich in plastic substances; Scotch oats are richer than those grown in England or in Germany. This kind of grain contains in its ashes, after deduction of the silica of the husks, very nearly the same ingredients as are found in the ashes of the juice of flesh. Fine American flour is one of the varieties which is richest in gluten, and is consequently one of the most nutritious.
NUTRITIOUS QUALITIES OF FLOUR.—The gluten in grains and the protein in plant juices are the same as the protein found in blood. Plant casein has the same makeup as animal casein. The best wheat flour has more starch than coarser varieties, and wheat bran is relatively richer in gluten. Rye and rye bread contain a substance similar to starch-gum (also known as dextrine) that easily turns into sugar. The starch in barley is similar to cellulose in many ways, making it less digestible. Oats are particularly high in building blocks; Scottish oats are richer than those grown in England or Germany. This type of grain has nearly the same nutrients in its ashes, after removing the silica from the husks, as are found in the ashes of meat juice. Fine American flour is among the types that contain the most gluten, making it one of the most nutritious options.
ALMOND CHEESECAKES.
1219. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter ones, 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 oz. of sugar.
1219. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds, 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, the zest of 1/4 lemon, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 3 oz. of sugar.
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds smoothly in a mortar, with a little rose- or spring-water; stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter, which should be warmed; add the grated lemon-peel and -juice, sweeten, and stir well until the whole is thoroughly mixed. Line some pattypans with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or rather less in a quick oven.
Method.—Blanch and grind the almonds smoothly in a mortar with a bit of rose water or spring water; then mix in the well-beaten eggs and warmed butter. Add the grated lemon peel and juice, sweeten, and stir well until everything is fully combined. Line some tart pans with puff pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or a bit less in a hot oven.
Time.—20 minutes, or rather less.
Time.—20 minutes or less.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for about 12 cheesecakes.
Enough for about 12 cheesecakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate for any season.
[Illustration: ALMOND AND BLOSSOM.]
[Illustration: ALMOND AND BLOSSOM.]
ALMONDS.—Almonds are the fruit of the Amygdalus commenis, and are cultivated throughout the whole of the south of Europe, Syria, Persia, and Northern Africa; but England is mostly supplied with those which are grown in Spain and the south of France. They are distinguished into Sweet and Bitter, the produce of different varieties. Of the sweet, there are two varieties, distinguished in commerce by the names of Jordan and Valentia almonds. The former are imported from Malaga, and are longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly esteemed than the latter, which are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds are principally obtained from Morocco, and are exported from Mogador.
ALMONDS.—Almonds are the fruit of the Amygdalus communis, and they're grown all over southern Europe, Syria, Persia, and North Africa. However, England mainly gets its almonds from Spain and the south of France. They're categorized into Sweet and Bitter, which come from different varieties. Among the sweet almonds, there are two types known in trade as Jordan and Valentia almonds. Jordan almonds come from Malaga and are longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly valued than Valentia almonds, which are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds mostly come from Morocco and are exported from Mogador.
ALMOND PASTE, for Second-Course Dishes.
Almond paste for main courses.
1220. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1 lb. of very finely sifted sugar, the whites of 2 eggs.
1220. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter almonds, 1 lb. of finely sifted sugar, the whites of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Blanch the almonds, and dry them thoroughly; put them into a mortar, and pound them well, wetting them gradually with the whites of 2 eggs. When well pounded, put them into a small preserving-pan, add the sugar, and place the pan on a small but clear fire (a hot-plate is better); keep stirring until the paste is dry, then take it out of the pan, put it between two dishes, and, when cold, make it into any shape that fancy may dictate.
Mode.—Blanch the almonds and dry them completely; place them in a mortar and pound them well, gradually adding the whites of 2 eggs. Once well-pounded, transfer them to a small saucepan, add the sugar, and set the pan on a small but steady heat (a hot plate is preferable); keep stirring until the paste is dry, then remove it from the pan, place it between two plates, and once it’s cool, shape it however you like.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. for the above quantity.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, 2 shillings for the above quantity.
Sufficient for 3 small dishes of pastry.
Sufficient for 3 small servings of pastry.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
BITTER ALMONDS.—The Bitter Almond is a variety of the common almond, and is injurious to animal life, on account of the great quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains, and is consequently seldom used in domestic economy, unless it be to give flavour to confectionery; and even then it should he used with great caution. A single drop of the essential oil of bitter almonds is sufficient to destroy a bird, and four drops have caused the death of a middle-sized dog.
BITTER ALMONDS.—The Bitter Almond is a type of common almond that is harmful to animals because of the high amount of hydrocyanic acid it has. Because of this, it's rarely used in cooking, except to flavor sweets, and even then it should be handled very carefully. Just one drop of the essential oil from bitter almonds can kill a bird, and four drops have been known to be fatal for a medium-sized dog.
BAKED ALMOND PUDDING.
(Very rich.)
(Wealthy.)
1221. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of almonds, 4 bitter ditto, 1 glass of sherry, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of butter, 1 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
1221. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of almonds, 4 bitter ones, 1 glass of sherry, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of butter, 1 pint of cream, 2 tablespoons of sugar.
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with the water; mix these with the butter, which should be melted; beat up the eggs, grate the lemon-rind, and strain the juice; add these, with the cream, sugar, and wine, to the other ingredients, and stir them well together. When well mixed, put it into a pie-dish lined with puff-paste, and bake for 1/2 hour.
Method.—Blanch and crush the almonds into a smooth paste with the water; mix this with the melted butter; whisk the eggs, grate the lemon zest, and squeeze out the juice; add these along with the cream, sugar, and wine to the other ingredients, and stir everything together well. Once thoroughly mixed, pour it into a pie dish lined with puff pastry, and bake for 30 minutes.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 3d.
Duration: 30 minutes. Average cost: 2s. 3d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—To make this pudding more economically, substitute milk for the cream; but then add rather more than 1 oz. of finely grated bread.
Note.—To make this pudding cheaper, use milk instead of cream; but then add a bit more than 1 oz. of finely grated bread.
USES OF THE SWEET ALMOND.—The kernels of the sweet almond are used either in a green or ripe state, and as an article in the dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, perfumery, and medicine, they largely enter, and in domestic economy, should always be used in preference to bitter almonds. The reason for advising this, is because the kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers, and bark of the tree. When young and green, they are preserved in sugar, like green apricots. They furnish the almond-oil; and the farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed, forms the pâte d'amandes of perfumers. In the arts, the oil is employed for the same purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the basis of kalydor, macassar oil, Gowland's lotion, and many other articles of that kind vended by perfumers. In medicine, it is considered a nutritive, laxative, and an emollient.
USES OF THE SWEET ALMOND.—The kernels of the sweet almond can be used when they are either green or ripe and are often included in desserts. They are widely used in cooking, candy making, perfumery, and medicine, and at home, they should always be preferred over bitter almonds. This is because sweet almond kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic acid, which is present in the leaves, flowers, and bark of the tree. When they are young and green, they can be preserved in sugar, similar to green apricots. They produce almond oil, and the leftover material after the oil is extracted becomes the pâte d'amandes used by perfumers. In the arts, almond oil is used for the same purposes as olive oil and serves as the foundation for kalydor, Macassar oil, Gowland's lotion, and many other products sold by perfumers. In medicine, it is known to be nutritious, laxative, and soothing.
SMALL ALMOND PUDDINGS.
1222. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1/4 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
1222. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1/4 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoons of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoons of cream, 1 tablespoon of brandy.
[Illustration: ALMOND PUDDINGS.]
[Illustration: Almond Puddings.]
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with a spoonful of water; warm the butter, mix the almonds with this, and add the other ingredients, leaving out the whites of 2 eggs, and be particular that these are well beaten. Mix well, butter some cups, half fill them, and bake the puddings from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Turn them out on a dish, and serve with sweet sauce.
Method.—Blanch and grind the almonds into a smooth paste with a spoonful of water; melt the butter, mix in the almonds, and add the other ingredients, setting aside the whites of 2 eggs, making sure they are well beaten. Mix everything thoroughly, butter some cups, fill them halfway, and bake the puddings for 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Turn them out onto a dish and serve with sweet sauce.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—20 minutes to half an hour. Average cost, £0.05.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Appropriate at any time.
THE HUSKS OF ALMONDS.—In the environs of Alicante, the husks of almonds are ground to a powder, and enter into the composition of common soap, the large quantity of alkaline principle they contain rendering them suitable for this purpose. It is said that in some parts of the south of France, where they are extensively grown, horses and mules are fed on the green and dry husks; but, to prevent any evil consequences arising from this practice, they are mixed with chopped straw or oats.
THE HUSKS OF ALMONDS.—In the vicinity of Alicante, almond husks are ground into a powder and used in making regular soap, as their high alkaline content makes them suitable for this purpose. It's said that in some areas of southern France, where almonds are widely cultivated, horses and mules are fed both green and dry husks; however, to avoid any negative effects from this practice, they are mixed with chopped straw or oats.
ALMOND PUFFS.
1223. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds.
1223. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoons of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of powdered sugar, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds.
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar to a smooth paste; melt the butter, dredge in the flour, and add the sugar and pounded almonds. Beat the mixture well, and put it into cups or very tiny jelly-pots, which should be well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes, or longer should the puffs be large. Turn them out on a dish, the bottom of the puff upper-most, and serve.
Method.—Blanch and grind the almonds in a mortar until you have a smooth paste; melt the butter, mix in the flour, and add the sugar and ground almonds. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and pour it into cups or small jelly jars that are well buttered. Bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes, or longer if the puffs are large. Turn them out onto a plate with the bottom side facing up, and serve.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 2 or 3 people. Suitable at any time.
AUNT NELLY'S PUDDING.
1224. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of treacle, 1/2 lb. of suet, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, a few strips of candied lemon-peel, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs.
1224. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of molasses, 1/2 lb. of beef fat, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, a few pieces of candied lemon peel, 3 tablespoons of cream, 2 eggs.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, treacle, lemon-peel minced, and candied lemon-peel; add the cream, lemon-juice, and 2 well-beaten eggs; beat the pudding well, put it into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil from 3-1/2 to 4 hours.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet; mix it with flour, treacle, minced lemon peel, and candied lemon peel; add the cream, lemon juice, and 2 well-beaten eggs; mix the pudding thoroughly, pour it into a buttered bowl, cover it with a cloth, and boil for 3 to 4 hours.
Time.—3-1/2 to 4 hours. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—3.5 to 4 hours. Average cost, £1.10.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time, but more suitable for a winter pudding.
Good to enjoy any time, but better as a winter dessert.
TREACLE, OR MOLASSES.—Treacle is the uncrystallizable part of the saccharine juice drained from the Muscovado sugar, and is either naturally so or rendered uncrystallizable through some defect in the process of boiling. As it contains a large quantity of sweet or saccharine principle and is cheap, it is of great use as an article of domestic economy. Children are especially fond of it; and it is accounted wholesome. It is also useful for making beer, rum, and the very dark syrups.
TREACLE, OR MOLASSES.—Treacle is the non-crystallizable part of the sugary liquid extracted from Muscovado sugar, and it can be either naturally that way or made non-crystallizable due to some flaw in the boiling process. Since it has a high sugar content and is inexpensive, it is very beneficial for everyday use. Children particularly enjoy it, and it's considered healthy. It's also helpful for brewing beer, rum, and making very dark syrups.
BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS (a Plain Family Dish).
BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS (a Simple Family Recipe).
1225. INGREDIENTS.—6 apples, 3/4 lb.. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to taste.
1225. INGREDIENTS.—6 apples, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing them, and make 1/2 lb. of suet-crust by recipe No. 1215; roll the apples in the crust, previously sweetening them with moist sugar, and taking care to join the paste nicely. When they are formed into round balls, put them on a tin, and bake them for about 1/2 hour, or longer should the apples be very large; arrange them pyramidically on a dish, and sift over them some pounded white sugar. These may be made richer by using one of the puff-pastes instead of suet.
Mode.—Peel the apples and remove the cores without cutting them in half. Make 1/2 lb. of suet crust following recipe No. 1215; roll the apples in the crust after sweetening them with brown sugar, making sure to seal the dough properly. Once they are shaped into round balls, place them on a baking tray and bake for about 30 minutes, or longer if the apples are very large. Arrange them in a pyramid shape on a plate and dust with powdered white sugar. For a richer version, you can use one of the puff pastries instead of suet.
Time.—From 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or longer. Average cost, 1-1/2d. each.
Time.—From 30 to 45 minutes, or longer. Average cost, 1.5d. each.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from August to March, but flavourless after the end of January.
In season from August to March, but tasteless after January.
USES OF THE APPLE.—It is well known that this fruit forms a very important article of food, in the form of pies and puddings, and furnishes several delicacies, such as sauces, marmalades, and jellies, and is much esteemed as a dessert fruit. When flattened in the form of round cakes, and baked in ovens, they are called beefings; and large quantities are annually dried in the sun in America, as well as in Normandy, and stored for use during winter, when they may be stewed or made into pies. In a roasted state they are remarkably wholesome, and, it is said, strengthening to a weak stomach. In putrid and malignant fevers, when used with the juice of lemons and currants, they are considered highly efficacious.
USES OF THE APPLE.—It’s well known that this fruit is a very important food item, used in pies and puddings, and provides several treats like sauces, jams, and jellies, and is highly valued as a dessert fruit. When flattened into round cakes and baked, they are called beefings; and large quantities are dried in the sun each year in America and Normandy, then stored for winter use, when they can be stewed or made into pies. When roasted, they are quite healthy and said to be helpful for a weak stomach. In cases of bad and severe fevers, when combined with lemon juice and currants, they are thought to be very effective.
APPLE CHEESECAKES.
1226. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of apple pulp, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1 lemon.
1226. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of apple pulp, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, the zest and juice of 1 lemon.
Mode.—Pare, core, and boil sufficient apples to make 1/2 lb. when cooked; add to these the sugar, the butter, which should be melted; the eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and take grated rind and juice of 1 lemon; stir the mixture well; line some patty-pans with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake about 20 minutes.
Method.—Peel, core, and cook enough apples to make 1/2 lb. when done; add sugar, melted butter, and eggs, using only 4 of the egg whites; add grated lemon zest and juice from 1 lemon; mix everything well; line some tart pans with puff pastry, fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 20 minutes.
Time.—About 20 minutes.
Time.—Approximately 20 minutes.
Average cost, for the above quantity, with the paste, 1s. 2d.
Average cost, for the above quantity, with the paste, £1.10.
Sufficient for about 18 or 20 cheesecakes.
Enough for around 18 or 20 cheesecakes.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
[Illustration: APPLE AND BLOSSOM.]
[Illustration: Apple and Blossom.]
THE APPLE.—The most useful of all the British fruits is the apple, which is a native of Britain, and may be found in woods and hedges, in the form of the common wild crab, of which all our best apples are merely seminal varieties, produced by culture or particular circumstances. In most temperate climates it is very extensively cultivated, and in England, both as regards variety and quantity, it is excellent and abundant. Immense supplies are also imported from the United States and from France. The apples grown in the vicinity of New York are universally admitted to be the finest of any; but unless selected and packed with great care, they are apt to spoil before reaching England.
THE APPLE.—The most useful of all British fruits is the apple, which is native to Britain and can be found in woods and hedges as the common wild crab. All of our best apples are just cultivated varieties that come from this wild type, influenced by specific conditions. In most temperate climates, it is widely grown, and in England, it stands out in both variety and quantity, being excellent and abundant. Huge amounts are also imported from the United States and France. Apples grown near New York are considered the best, but unless they are carefully selected and packed, they tend to spoil before arriving in England.
BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS.
1227. INGREDIENTS.—6 apples, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar to taste.
1227. INGREDIENTS.—6 apples, 3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing them; sweeten, and roll each apple in a piece of crust, made by recipe No. 1211; be particular that the paste is nicely joined; put the dumplings into floured cloths, tie them securely, and put them into boiling water. Keep them boiling from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; remove the cloths, and send them hot and quickly to table. Dumplings boiled in knitted cloths have a very pretty appearance when they come to table. The cloths should be made square, just large enough to hold one dumpling, and should be knitted in plain knitting, with very coarse cotton.
Method.—Peel and core the apples without cutting them; sweeten them and wrap each apple in a piece of crust made according to recipe No. 1211; make sure the dough is sealed well. Place the dumplings into floured cloths, tie them securely, and drop them into boiling water. Keep them boiling for about 30 to 45 minutes; then remove the cloths and serve them hot and quickly. Dumplings boiled in knitted cloths look really nice when served. The cloths should be square, just big enough to hold one dumpling, and should be knitted in simple knitting with very coarse cotton.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour, or longer should the dumplings be very large.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour, or longer if the dumplings are very large.
Average cost, 11/2d. each.
Average cost, 1.5d. each.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Enough for 4 people.
Seasonable from August to March, but flavourless after the end of January.
In season from August to March, but tasteless after the end of January.
LAMBSWOOL, or LAMASOOL.—This old English beverage is composed of apples mixed with ale, and seasoned with sugar and spice. It takes its name from Lamaes abhal, which, in ancient British, signifies the day of apple fruit, from being drunk on the apple feast in autumn. In France, a beverage, called by the Parisians raisinée, is made by boiling any given quantity of new wine, skimming it as often as fresh scum rises, and, when it is boiled to half its bulk, straining it. To this apples, pared and cut into quarters, are added; the whole is then allowed to simmer gently, stirring it all the time with a long wooden spoon, till the apples are thoroughly mixed with the liquor, and the whole forms a species of marmalade, which is extremely agreeable to the taste, having a slight flavour of acidity, like lemon mixed with honey.
LAMBSWOOL, or LAMASOOL.—This traditional English drink is made from apples mixed with ale, sweetened with sugar and spices. Its name comes from Lamaes abhal, which in ancient British means the day of apple harvest, as it’s enjoyed during the autumn apple festival. In France, there’s a drink called raisinée made by boiling a certain amount of new wine, skimming off any foam that collects, and once it reduces to half its original volume, straining it. Then, peeled and quartered apples are added, and the mixture is simmered gently, constantly stirred with a long wooden spoon, until the apples are fully blended into the liquor, creating a kind of marmalade that’s very pleasing to the palate, with a slight tartness reminiscent of lemon mixed with honey.
RICH BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
I.
1228. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of the pulp of apples, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of butter, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, puff-paste.
1228. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of apple pulp, 1/2 lb. of granulated sugar, 6 oz. of butter, the zest of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, puff pastry.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce; put them into a stewpan, with only just sufficient water to prevent them from burning, and let them stew until reduced to a pulp. Weigh the pulp, and to every 1/2 lb. add sifted sugar, grated lemon-rind, and 6 well-beaten eggs. Beat these ingredients well together; then melt the butter, stir it to the other things, put a border of puff-paste round the dish, and bake for rather more than 1/2 hour. The butter should not be added until the pudding is ready for the oven.
Mode.—Peel, core, and slice the apples like you would for applesauce; place them in a saucepan with just enough water to keep them from burning, and let them simmer until they turn into a pulp. Weigh the pulp, and for every 1/2 pound, add sifted sugar, grated lemon zest, and 6 well-beaten eggs. Mix these ingredients thoroughly; then melt the butter, stir it into the mixture, add a border of puff pastry around the dish, and bake for a little over 1/2 hour. The butter should be added only when the pudding is ready for the oven.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Duration.—30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 10d.
Average cost, £1.50.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
II.
(More Economical.)
(More Affordable.)
1229. INGREDIENTS.—12 large apples, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of bread crumbs.
1229. INGREDIENTS.—12 large apples, 6 oz. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of bread crumbs.
Mode.—Pare, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce, and boil them until reduced to a pulp; then add the butter, melted, and the eggs, which should be well whisked. Beat up the pudding for 2 or 3 minutes; butter a pie-dish; put in a layer of bread crumbs, then the apple, and then another layer of bread crumbs; flake over these a few tiny pieces of butter, and bake for about 1/2 hour.
Mode.—Peel, core, and chop the apples as you would for applesauce, then cook them until they turn into a pulp. Next, add the melted butter and whisked eggs. Mix the pudding for 2 or 3 minutes. Grease a pie dish, add a layer of bread crumbs, followed by the apple mixture, and then another layer of bread crumbs. Dot a few small pieces of butter on top, and bake for about 30 minutes.
Time.—About 1/2 hour.
Time.—About 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from August to March.
In-season from August to March.
Note.—A very good economical pudding may be made merely with apples, boiled and sweetened, with the addition of a few strips of lemon-peel. A layer of bread crumbs should be placed above and below the apples, and the pudding baked for 1/2 hour.
Note.—You can make a really simple and inexpensive pudding just using apples, boiled and sweetened, with some strips of lemon peel added. Layer bread crumbs above and below the apples, and bake the pudding for 30 minutes.
CONSTITUENTS OF THE APPLE.—All apples contain sugar, malic acid, or the acid of apples; mucilage, or gum; woody fibre, and water; together with some aroma, on which their peculiar flavour depends. The hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten raw; but by the process of cooking, a great deal of this acid is decomposed and converted into sugar. The sweet and mellow kinds form a valuable addition to the dessert. A great part of the acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even after it is gathered, by natural process, termed maturation; but, when apples decay, the sugar is changed into a bitter principle, and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive. Old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the apple when eaten; probably from the volatile alkali or ammonia of the cheese neutralizing its acid.
CONSTITUENTS OF THE APPLE.—All apples contain sugar, malic acid, or apple acid; mucilage, or gum; woody fiber, and water; along with some aroma that gives them their unique flavor. The hard, acidic varieties are unhealthy if eaten raw, but cooking breaks down a lot of this acid and turns it into sugar. The sweet and soft types are a great addition to dessert. A large portion of the acidic juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even after it's picked, through a natural process called maturation; however, when apples rot, the sugar turns into a bitter compound, and the mucilage becomes moldy and unpleasant. Old cheese has a notable effect on improving the taste of apples when eaten, probably because the volatile alkali or ammonia in the cheese neutralizes the acidity.
RICH SWEET APPLE PUDDING.
1230. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of apples, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 6 eggs, 12 sweet almonds, 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
1230. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of apples, 1/2 lb. of brown sugar, 6 eggs, 12 sweet almonds, 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
Mode.—Chop the suet very fine; wash the currants, dry them, and pick away the stalks and pieces of grit; pare, core, and chop the apple, and grate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds. Mix all these ingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg; beat up the eggs, omitting the whites of three; stir these to the pudding, and when all is well mixed, add the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould; tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil for 3 hours.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet; wash the currants, dry them, and remove the stems and any grit; peel, core, and chop the apple, then grate the bread into fine crumbs and mince the almonds. Combine all these ingredients, adding the sugar and nutmeg; beat the eggs, leaving out the whites of three; mix them into the pudding, and once everything is well combined, add the brandy. Pour the pudding mixture into a buttered mold; cover it with a cloth, place it in boiling water, and let it boil for 3 hours.
Time.—3 hours.
Time.—3 hrs.
Average cost, 2s.
Average cost, 2 shillings.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from August to March.
In season from August to March.
TO PRESERVE APPLES.—The best mode of preserving apples is to carry them at once to the fruit-room, where they should be put upon shelves, covered with white paper, after gently wiping each of the fruit. The room should be dry, and well aired, but should not admit the sun. The finer and larger kinds of fruit should not be allowed to touch each other, but should be kept separate. For this purpose, a number of shallow trays should be provided, supported by racks or stands above each other. In very cold frosty weather, means should be adopted for warming the room.
TO PRESERVE APPLES.—The best way to preserve apples is to take them directly to the fruit room, where they should be placed on shelves and covered with white paper after gently wiping each piece of fruit. The room should be dry and well-ventilated, but should not get direct sunlight. The finer and larger varieties should not touch each other and should be kept separate. For this, a number of shallow trays should be used, supported by racks or stands stacked on top of each other. In very cold, frosty weather, some method should be used to warm the room.
BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
(Very Good.)
(Awesome.)
1231. INGREDIENTS.—5 moderate-sized apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of milk, a little grated nutmeg.
1231. INGREDIENTS.—5 medium-sized apples, 2 tablespoons of finely chopped suet, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoons of flour, 1 pint of milk, a pinch of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk; add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and put this batter into a well-buttered pie-dish. Wipe the apples clean, but do not pare them; cut them in halves, and take out the cores; lay them in the batter, rind uppermost; shake the suet on the top, over which, also grate a little nutmeg; bake in a moderate oven for an hour, and cover, when served, with sifted loaf sugar. This pudding is also very good with the apples pared, sliced, and mixed with the batter.
Method.—Mix the flour with the milk to create a smooth batter; add the eggs, which should be well beaten, and pour this batter into a buttered pie dish. Clean the apples without peeling them; cut them in half and remove the cores; place them cut side up in the batter. Sprinkle the top with suet and grate a little nutmeg over it as well; bake in a moderate oven for an hour, and when served, dust with powdered sugar. This pudding is also very good with the apples peeled, sliced, and mixed into the batter.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
BOILED APPLE PUDDING.
1232. INGREDIENTS.—Crust No. 1215, apples, sugar to taste, 1 small teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
1232. INGREDIENTS.—Crust No. 1215, apples, sugar to taste, 1 small teaspoon of finely minced lemon peel, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.
Mode.—Make a butter-crust by recipe No. 1213, or a suet one by recipe No. 1215, using for a moderate-sized pudding from 3/4 to 1 lb. of flour, with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin; line it with some of the paste; pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and fill the basin with these; add the sugar, the lemon-peel and juice, and cover with crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling water. Let it boil from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size; then turn it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple puddings may also be boiled in a cloth without a basin; but, when made in this way, must be served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes heavy. Apple pudding is a very convenient dish to have when the dinner-hour is rather uncertain, as it does not spoil by being boiled an extra hour; care, however, must be taken to keep it well covered with the water all the time, and not to allow it to stop boiling.
Mode.—Make a butter crust using recipe No. 1213, or a suet crust with recipe No. 1215, using 3/4 to 1 lb. of flour for a medium-sized pudding, adjusting the other ingredients accordingly. Butter a bowl; line it with some of the dough; peel, core, and slice the apples, then fill the bowl with them; add the sugar, lemon peel, and juice, and cover with the crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of boiling water. Let it boil for 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, depending on its size; then turn it out of the bowl and serve it right away. Apple puddings can also be boiled in a cloth without a bowl; however, if made this way, they must be served immediately, as the crust becomes heavy quickly. Apple pudding is a great dish to have when dinner time is a bit uncertain, as it won't spoil if boiled an extra hour; just make sure to keep it well covered with water at all times and ensure it keeps boiling.
Time.—From 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 hours, according to the size of the pudding and the quality of the apples.
Time.—From 1.5 to 2.5 hours, depending on the size of the pudding and the quality of the apples.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10d.
Sufficient, made with 1 lb. of flour, for 7 or 8 persons.
Sufficient, made with 1 lb. of flour, for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from August to March; but the apples become flavourless and scarce after February.
In season from August to March; however, the apples lose their flavor and become rare after February.
APPLE TART OR PIE.
1233. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. of unpared apples allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
1233. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1205 or 1206, apples; for every pound of unpeeled apples, use 2 ounces of brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of finely chopped lemon zest, and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Mode.—Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by either of the above-named recipes, place a border of it round the edge of a pie-dish, and fill it with apples pared, cored, and cut into slices; sweeten with moist sugar, add the lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water; cover with crust, cut it evenly round close to the edge of the pie-dish, and bake in a hot oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, or rather longer, should the pie be very large. When it is three-parts done, take it out of the oven, put the white of an egg on a plate, and, with the blade of a knife, whisk it to a froth; brush the pie over with this, then sprinkle upon it some sifted sugar, and then a few drops of water. Put the pie back into the oven, and finish baking, and be particularly careful that it does not catch or burn, which it is very liable to do after the crust is iced. If made with a plain crust, the icing may be omitted.
Mode.—Make 1/2 lb. of puff pastry using either of the recipes mentioned above, then place a border of it around the edge of a pie dish and fill it with apples that have been peeled, cored, and sliced. Sweeten with brown sugar, add lemon zest and juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoons of water. Cover with crust, cutting it evenly around the edge of the pie dish, and bake in a hot oven for 30 to 45 minutes, or longer if the pie is very large. When it’s about three-quarters done, take it out of the oven, place the egg white on a plate, and whisk it to a froth with a knife. Brush the pie with it, then sprinkle some sifted sugar on top along with a few drops of water. Return the pie to the oven to finish baking, making sure it doesn’t catch or burn, which can easily happen after icing the crust. If using a plain crust, you can skip the icing.
Time.—1/2 hour before the crust is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterwards.
Time.—30 minutes before the crust is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterward.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 lbs. of apples for a tart for 6 persons.
Sufficient.—Use 2 lbs. of apples for a tart that serves 6 people.
Seasonable from August to March; but the apples become flavourless after February.
In season from August to March; but the apples lose their flavor after February.
Note.—Many things are suggested for the flavouring of apple pie; some say 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of beer, others the same quantity of sherry, which very much improve the taste; whilst the old-fashioned addition of a few cloves is, by many persons, preferred to anything else, as also a few slices of quince.
Note.—There are many ideas for adding flavor to apple pie; some suggest using 2 or 3 tablespoons of beer, while others recommend the same amount of sherry, both of which really enhance the taste. Many people still prefer the traditional addition of a few cloves or a few slices of quince to anything else.
[Illustration: QUINCE.]
[Illustration: QUINCE.]
QUINCES.—The environs of Corinth originally produced the most beautiful quinces, but the plant was subsequently introduced into Gaul with the most perfect success. The ancients preserved the fruit by placing it, with its branches and leaves, in a vessel filled with honey or sweet wine, which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition. Quinces may be profitably cultivated in this country as a variety with other fruit-trees, and may be planted in espaliers or as standards. A very fine-flavoured marmalade may be prepared from quinces, and a small portion of quince in apple pie much improves its flavour. The French use quinces for flavouring many sauces. This fruit has the remarkable peculiarity of exhaling an agreeable odour, taken singly; but when in any quantity, or when they are stowed away in a drawer or close room, the pleasant aroma becomes an intolerable stench, although the fruit may be perfectly sound; it is therefore desirable that, as but a few quinces are required for keeping, they should be kept in a high and dry loft, and out of the way of the rooms used by the family.
QUINCES. The area around Corinth originally produced the most beautiful quinces, but the plant was later successfully introduced to Gaul. The ancients preserved the fruit by placing it, along with its branches and leaves, in a container filled with honey or sweet wine, which they simmered down to half its volume. Quinces can be profitably grown in this country alongside other fruit trees and can be planted in espaliers or as standards. A very tasty marmalade can be made from quinces, and adding a small amount of quince to apple pie greatly enhances its flavor. The French use quinces to add flavor to many sauces. This fruit has a unique characteristic of releasing a pleasant scent when it's alone, but in larger quantities, or when stored in a drawer or a small room, the nice aroma can turn into an unbearable smell, even if the fruit is perfectly fine; therefore, it’s best to keep just a few quinces for storage in a high, dry attic, away from the rooms the family uses.
CREAMED APPLE TART.
1234. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-crust No. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every lb. of pared and cored apples, allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 pint of boiled custard.
1234. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-crust No. 1205 or 1206, apples; for every pound of peeled and cored apples, use 2 oz. of brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon zest, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/2 pint of cooked custard.
Mode.—Make an apple tart by the preceding recipe, with the exception of omitting the icing. When the tart is baked, cut out the middle of the lid or crust, leaving a border all round the dish. Fill up with a nicely-made boiled custard, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and the pie is ready for table. This tart is usually eaten cold; is rather an old-fashioned dish, but, at the same time, extremely nice.
Mode.—Make an apple tart using the previous recipe, but leave out the icing. Once the tart is baked, cut out the center of the lid or crust, leaving a border all around the dish. Fill it with a well-made boiled custard, grate a little nutmeg on top, and the pie is ready to serve. This tart is typically enjoyed cold; it's a bit old-fashioned, but it's still really nice.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Duration.—30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
APPLE SNOWBALLS.
1235. INGREDIENTS.—2 teacupfuls of rice, apples, moist sugar, cloves.
1235. INGREDIENTS.—2 teacups of rice, apples, brown sugar, cloves.
Mode.—Boil the rice in milk until three-parts done; then strain it off, and pare and core the apples without dividing them. Put a small quantity of sugar and a clove into each apple, put the rice round them, and tie each ball separately in a cloth. Boil until the apples are tender; then take them up, remove the cloths, and serve.
Mode.—Cook the rice in milk until it’s about three-quarters done; then drain it and peel and core the apples without cutting them in half. Place a small amount of sugar and a clove inside each apple, then surround them with the rice and wrap each one in a cloth. Boil until the apples are soft; then remove them, take off the cloths, and serve.
Time.—1/2 hour to boil the rice separately; 1/2 to 1 hour with the apple.
Time.—30 minutes to boil the rice separately; 30 minutes to 1 hour with the apple.
Seasonable from August to March.
In season from August to March.
APPLE TOURTE OR CAKE.
(German Recipe.)
(German Recipe.)
1236. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, 1/4 lb. of butter, 3/4 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 3 oz. of sweet almonds.
1236. INGREDIENTS.—10 or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the zest of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs, 1/4 pint of cream or milk, 1/4 lb. of butter, 3/4 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 3 oz. of sweet almonds.
Mode.—Pare, core, and cut the apples into small pieces; put sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them into a basin; add the lemon-peel, which should be finely minced, and the cream; stir these ingredients well, whisk the eggs, and melt the butter; mix altogether, add the sliced apple, and let these be well stirred into the mixture. Line a large round plate with the paste, place a narrow rim of the same round the outer edge, and lay the apples thickly in the middle. Blanch the almonds, cut them into long shreds, and strew over the top of the apples, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, taking care that the almonds do not get burnt: when done, strew some sifted sugar over the top, and serve. This tourte may be eaten either hot or cold, and is sufficient to fill 2 large-sized plates.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into small pieces; put enough moist sugar to sweeten them into a bowl; add the minced lemon peel and the cream; mix these ingredients well, whisk the eggs, and melt the butter; combine everything, add the sliced apple, and stir it all into the mixture. Line a large round plate with the dough, place a narrow strip of the same around the outer edge, and pile the apples in the center. Blanch the almonds, cut them into long strips, and sprinkle them over the top of the apples, then bake for 30 to 45 minutes, making sure the almonds don't burn: when finished, sprinkle some sifted sugar on top and serve. This tart can be enjoyed either hot or cold and is enough to fill two large plates.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, 2s. 2d.
Average cost, £2.10.
Sufficient for 2 large-sized tourtes.
Enough for 2 large tourtes.
Seasonable from August to March.
Seasonal from August to March.
APPLES.—No fruit is so universally popular as the apple. It is grown extensively for cider, but many sorts are cultivated for the table. The apple, uncooked, is less digestible than the pear; the degree of digestibility varying according to the firmness of its texture and flavour. Very wholesome and delicious jellies, marmalades, and sweetmeats are prepared from it. Entremets of apples are made in great variety. Apples, when peeled, cored, and well cooked, are a most grateful food for the dyspeptic.
APPLES.—No fruit is as universally loved as the apple. It's widely grown for cider, but many varieties are cultivated for eating. Raw apples are less digestible than pears, and how well they digest can depend on their firmness and flavor. They’re also used to make very healthy and tasty jellies, marmalades, and preserves. There are many different dishes made with apples. When peeled, cored, and properly cooked, apples make a very satisfying food for those with digestive issues.
ALMA PUDDING.
1237. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of fresh butter, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of currants, 4 eggs.
1237. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of fresh butter, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of currants, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a thick cream, strew in, by degrees, the sugar, and mix both these well together; then dredge the flour in gradually, add the currants, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well beaten. When all the ingredients are well stirred and mixed, butter a mould that will hold the mixture exactly, tie it down with a cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 5 hours; when turned out, strew some powdered sugar over it, and serve.
Mode.—Cream the butter until it's thick, gradually add the sugar, and mix them together well; then slowly incorporate the flour, add the currants, and moisten with well-beaten eggs. Once all the ingredients are mixed thoroughly, grease a mold that fits the mixture perfectly, cover it with a cloth, place the pudding in boiling water, and boil for 5 hours. When you remove it from the mold, sprinkle some powdered sugar on top and serve.
Time.—6 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration: 6 hours. Average cost: 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Available anytime.
BAKED APRICOT PUDDING.
1238. INGREDIENTS.—12 large apricots, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of sherry.
1238. INGREDIENTS.—12 large apricots, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of powdered sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of sherry.
Mode.—Make the milk boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread crumbs; when half cold, add the sugar, the well-whisked yolks of the eggs, and the sherry. Divide the apricots in half, scald them until they are soft, and break them up with a spoon, adding a few of the kernels, which should be well pounded in a mortar; then mix the fruit and other ingredients together, put a border of paste round the dish, fill with the mixture, and bake the pudding from 1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Method.—Heat the milk until it's boiling hot and pour it over the bread crumbs; once it's cool enough to handle, add the sugar, the well-beaten egg yolks, and the sherry. Cut the apricots in half, scald them until they're soft, and mash them with a spoon, adding a few crushed kernels that have been ground in a mortar; then mix the fruit and other ingredients together, place a border of pastry around the dish, fill it with the mixture, and bake the pudding for 30 to 45 minutes.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, in full season, 1s. 6d.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, during peak season, 1 shilling 6 pence.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in August, September, and October.
In-season in August, September, and October.
APRICOT TART.
1239. INGREDIENTS.—12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff-paste or short crust.
1239. INGREDIENTS.—12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff pastry or shortcrust.
Mode.—Break the apricots in half, take out the stones, and put them into a pie-dish, in the centre of which place a very small cup or jar, bottom uppermost; sweeten with good moist sugar, but add no water. Line the edge of the dish with paste, put on the cover, and ornament the pie in any of the usual modes. Bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, according to size; and if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10 minutes before the pie is done, and put it into the oven again to set the glaze. Short crust merely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled over it before being sent to table.
Mode.—Cut the apricots in half, remove the pits, and place them in a pie dish. Put a small cup or jar upside down in the center. Sweeten with good moist sugar, but don’t add any water. Line the edge of the dish with pastry, put on the lid, and decorate the pie in any usual way. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size; if you use puff pastry, glaze it about 10 minutes before the pie is finished and return it to the oven to set the glaze. Short crust just needs a little sifted sugar sprinkled on top before serving.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, in full season, 1s.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, during peak season, 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in August, September, and October; green ones rather earlier.
In season in August, September, and October; green ones a bit earlier.
Note.—Green apricots make very good tarts, but they should be boiled with a little sugar and water before they are covered with the crust.
Note.—Green apricots make great tarts, but they should be boiled with a little sugar and water before being topped with the crust.
APRICOTS.—The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, but is now cultivated in almost every climate, temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit has a perfumed flavour, highly esteemed. A good apricot, when perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe, or in too great excess. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked, without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. The apricot makes excellent jam and marmalade, and there are several foreign preparations of it which are considered great luxuries.
APRICOTS.—The apricot originated in the plains of Armenia, but it's now grown in almost every climate, whether temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit has a fragrant flavor that is highly valued. A good apricot, when fully ripe, is a fantastic fruit. It's been somewhat criticized for its laxative effects, but this may be due to people eating it unripe or in excessive amounts. Sensitive individuals should avoid eating uncooked apricots without a generous sprinkle of powdered sugar. The apricot makes delicious jam and marmalade, and there are various international recipes that are considered true delicacies.
BAKED OR BOILED ARROWROOT PUDDING.
1240. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, a little grated nutmeg.
1240. INGREDIENTS.—2 tablespoons of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pints of milk, 1 oz. of butter, the zest of 1/2 lemon, 2 heaped tablespoons of brown sugar, a little grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Mix the arrowroot with as much cold milk as will make it into a smooth batter, moderately thick; put the remainder of the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-peel, and let it infuse for about 1/2 hour; when it boils, strain it gently to the batter, stirring it all the time to keep it smooth; then add the butter; beat this well in until thoroughly mixed, and sweeten with moist sugar. Put the mixture into a pie-dish, round which has been placed a border of paste, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake the pudding from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, in a moderate oven, or boil it the same length of time in a well-buttered basin. To enrich this pudding, stir to the other ingredients, just before it is put in the oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a tablespoonful of brandy. For a nursery pudding, the addition of the latter ingredients will be found quite superfluous, as also the paste round the edge of the dish.
Method.—Combine the arrowroot with enough cold milk to create a smooth, moderately thick batter. Pour the rest of the milk into a saucepan with the lemon peel and let it steep for about 30 minutes. When it begins to boil, strain it gently into the batter, stirring continuously to keep it smooth. Next, add the butter and mix it in thoroughly, then sweeten with brown sugar. Pour the mixture into a pie dish that has a border of pastry. Grate a little nutmeg on top and bake the pudding for 1 to 1 1/4 hours in a moderate oven, or boil it for the same amount of time in a well-buttered basin. To make this pudding richer, just before placing it in the oven, stir in 3 well-beaten eggs and add a tablespoon of brandy. For a nursery pudding, adding these last ingredients is unnecessary, as is the pastry around the edge of the dish.
Time.—1 to 1-1/4 hour, baked or boiled. Average cost, 7d.
Time.—1 to 1-1/4 hour, baked or boiled. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
ARROWROOT.—In India, and in the colonies, by the process of rasping, they extract from a vegetable (Maranta arundinacea) a sediment nearly resembling tapioca. The grated pulp is sifted into a quantity of water, from which it is afterwards strained and dried, and the sediment thus produced is called arrowroot. Its qualities closely resemble those of tapioca.
ARROWROOT.—In India and in the colonies, they extract a substance that looks a lot like tapioca from a plant (Maranta arundinacea) by grating it. The grated pulp is mixed with water, then strained and dried, resulting in a sediment known as arrowroot. Its properties are very similar to those of tapioca.
A BACHELOR'S PUDDING.
1241. INGREDIENTS.—4 oz. of grated bread, 4 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of apples, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of essence of lemon, a little grated nutmeg.
1241. INGREDIENTS.—4 oz. of grated bread, 4 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of apples, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of lemon extract, a little grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Pare, core, and mince the apples very finely, sufficient, when minced, to make 4 oz.; add to these the currants, which should be well washed, the grated bread, and sugar; whisk the eggs, beat these up with the remaining ingredients, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, put the pudding into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours.
Mode.—Peel, core, and chop the apples very finely until you have 4 oz. When minced, add the well-washed currants, grated bread, and sugar. Whisk the eggs and combine them with the other ingredients. Once everything is mixed together well, pour the pudding into a buttered bowl, cover it with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 9d.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. In season from August to March.
BAKEWELL PUDDING.
(Very Rich.)
Very Wealthy
I.
1242. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of puff-paste, 5 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 oz. of almonds, jam.
1242. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of puff pastry, 5 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1 oz. of almonds, jam.
Mode.—Cover a dish with thin paste, and put over this a layer of any kind of jam, 1/2 inch thick; put the yolks of 5 eggs into a basin with the white of 1, and beat these well; add the sifted sugar, the butter, which should be melted, and the almonds, which should be well pounded; beat all together until well mixed, then pour it into the dish over the jam, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven.
Mode.—Cover a dish with a thin pastry, then spread a layer of any jam about 1/2 inch thick on top. In a bowl, combine the yolks of 5 eggs with the white of 1 and beat them well. Add the sifted sugar, melted butter, and finely ground almonds. Mix everything together until well combined, then pour it over the jam in the dish and bake for an hour in a moderate oven.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration: 1 hour. Average cost: 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 4 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 6 people. Good at any time.
II.
1243. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, jam.
1243. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of ground almonds, jam.
Mode.—Put the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie-dish, then over them a layer of jam of any kind that may be preferred; mix the milk and eggs together; add the sugar, butter, and pounded almonds; beat fill well together; pour it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour.
Method.—Place the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie dish, then add a layer of jam of your choice on top; mix the milk and eggs together; add the sugar, butter, and crushed almonds; beat everything together until well combined; pour it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost. 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost. 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
BARONESS PUDDING.
(Author's Recipe.)
(Author's Recipe.)
1244. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of suet, 3/4 lb. of raisins weighed after being stoned, 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt.
1244. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of suet, 3/4 lb. of raisins (weighed after being pitted), 3/4 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 teaspoon of salt.
Mode.—Prepare the suet, by carefully freeing it from skin, and chop it finely; stone the raisins, and cut them in halves, and mix both these ingredients with the salt and flour; moisten the whole with the above proportion of milk, stir the mixture well, and tie the pudding in a floured cloth, which has been previously wrung out in boiling water. Put the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil, without ceasing, 4-1/2 hours. Serve merely with plain sifted sugar, a little of which may be sprinkled over the pudding.
Mode.—Prepare the suet by carefully removing the skin and chopping it finely; pit the raisins and cut them in half, then mix these ingredients with the salt and flour. Moisten everything with the specified amount of milk, stir the mixture well, and tie the pudding in a floured cloth that has been soaked in boiling water. Place the pudding into a saucepan of boiling water and let it boil continuously for 4-1/2 hours. Serve it simply with plain sifted sugar, which can be sprinkled over the pudding.
Time.—4-1/2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Duration.—4.5 hours. Average cost, £1.20.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.
Available in winter, when fresh fruit isn't available.
Note.—This pudding the editress cannot too highly recommend. The recipe was kindly given to her family by a lady who bore the title here prefixed to it; and with all who have partaken of it, it is an especial favourite. Nothing is of greater consequence, in the above directions, than attention to the time of boiling, which should never be less than that mentioned.
Note.—The editor highly recommends this pudding. The recipe was generously shared with her family by a lady who holds the title noted here; and it has become a favorite among everyone who has tried it. One of the most important things in the instructions above is to pay attention to the boiling time, which should never be less than what is mentioned.
BARBERRY TART.
1245. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of barberries allow 3/4 lb. of lump sugar; paste.
1245. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of barberries, use 3/4 pound of lump sugar; paste.
[Illustration: LEAF IN PUFF-PASTE.]
[Illustration: Leaf in puff pastry.]
Mode.—Pick the barberries from the stalks, and put the fruit into a stone jar; place this jar in boiling water, and let it simmer very slowly until the fruit is soft; then put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and boil gently for 15 minutes; line a tartlet-pan with paste, bake it, and, when the paste is cold, fill with the barberries, and ornament the tart with a few baked leaves of paste, cut out, as shown in the engraving.
Method.—Remove the barberries from the stems and place the fruit into a glass jar; put this jar in boiling water and let it simmer very slowly until the fruit is soft. Then transfer it to a saucepan with the sugar and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Line a tartlet pan with dough, bake it, and when the dough is cool, fill it with the barberries, decorating the tart with a few baked leaves of dough, cut out as depicted in the illustration.
Time.—1/4 hour to bake the tart.
Time.—15 minutes to bake the tart.
Average cost, 4d. per pint.
Average cost, 4d. per pint.
Seasonable in autumn.
Autumn seasonable.
[Illustration: BARBERRY.]
[Illustration: BARBERRY.]
BARBERRIES (Berberris vulgaris.)—A fruit of such great acidity, that even birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with sugar, it makes a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the different modes of preparing it. Barberries are also used as a dry sweetmeat, and in sugarplums or comfits; are pickled with vinegar, and are used for various culinary purposes. They are well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted with fevers. The berries, arranged on bunches of nice curled parsley, make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper-dishes, particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl à la Béchamel, the three colours, scarlet, green, and white, contrasting so well, and producing a very good effect.
BARBERRIES (Berberris vulgaris)—A fruit so sour that even birds won't eat it. In this way, it’s similar to tamarind. When cooked with sugar, it can be turned into a delicious preserve or jelly, depending on how you prepare it. Barberries are also enjoyed as a dried sweet treat, found in sugarplums or comfits; they can be pickled in vinegar and used in various cooking recipes. They are great for cooling down heat and thirst for people suffering from fevers. The berries, arranged on bunches of fresh curled parsley, make a really attractive garnish for dinner dishes, especially for white meats like boiled chicken in Béchamel sauce, with the striking red, green, and white colors creating a beautiful presentation.
BAKED BATTER PUDDING.
1246. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, a little salt.
1246. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/4 cups of milk, 4 tablespoons of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Mix the flour with a small quantity of cold milk; make the remainder hot, and pour it on to the flour, keeping the mixture well stirred; add the butter, eggs, and salt; beat the whole well, and put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish; bake for 3/4 hour, and serve with sweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. Baked in small cups, this makes very pretty little puddings, and should be eaten with the same accompaniments as above.
Mode.—Combine the flour with a small amount of cold milk; heat the rest of the milk and pour it over the flour while stirring continuously. Add the butter, eggs, and salt; mix everything together well and pour the batter into a buttered pie dish. Bake for 45 minutes, then serve with sweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. When baked in small cups, this makes lovely little puddings, which should be enjoyed with the same accompaniments as mentioned above.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Time.—45 minutes. Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
BAKED BATTER PUDDING, with Dried or Fresh Fruit.
BAKED BATTER PUDDING, with Dried or Fresh Fruit.
1247. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/4 pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 eggs, 2 oz. of finely-shredded suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a pinch of salt.
1247. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/4 pints of milk, 4 tablespoons of flour, 3 eggs, 2 oz. of finely shredded suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Mix the milk, flour, and eggs to a smooth batter; add a little salt, the suet, and the currants, which should be well washed, picked, and dried; put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/4 hour. When fresh fruits are in season, this pudding is exceedingly nice, with damsons, plums, red currants, gooseberries, or apples; when made with these, the pudding must be thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding, with fruit, is made in the same manner, by putting the fruit into a buttered basin, and filling it up with batter made in the above proportion, but omitting the suet. It must be sent quickly to table, and covered plentifully with sifted sugar.
Method.—Mix the milk, flour, and eggs to create a smooth batter; add a pinch of salt, the suet, and the currants, which should be thoroughly washed, picked, and dried. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie dish and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes. When fresh fruits are in season, this pudding is especially delicious with damsons, plums, red currants, gooseberries, or apples; when using these, the pudding should be generously sprinkled with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding with fruit is made similarly by placing the fruit into a buttered basin and filling it up with batter made in the same proportions, but leaving out the suet. It should be served quickly and generously covered with sifted sugar.
Time.—Baked batter pudding, with fruit, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour; boiled ditto, 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour, allowing that both are made with the above proportion of batter. Smaller puddings will be done enough in 3/4 or 1 hour.
Time.—Baked batter pudding with fruit takes about 1 to 1.5 hours; boiled batter pudding takes around 1.5 to 1.75 hours, assuming both are made with the proportions mentioned above. Smaller puddings will be ready in 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Average cost, 10d.
Average price, 10d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable at any time, with dried fruits.
Great at any time, with dried fruits.
BOILED BATTER PUDDING.
1248. INGREDIENTS.—3 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, a little salt.
1248. INGREDIENTS.—3 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoons of flour, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin, and add sufficient milk to moisten it; carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in the remainder of the milk, and stir in the butter, which should be previously melted; keep beating the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch of salt, and when the batter is quite smooth, put it into a well-buttered basin, tie it down very tightly, and put it into boiling water; move the basin about for a few minutes after it is put into the water, to prevent the flour settling in any part, and boil for 1-1/4 hour. This pudding may also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in hot water; it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a basin. Send these puddings very quickly to table, and serve with sweet sauce, wine sauce, stewed fruit, or jam of any kind: when the latter is used, a little of it may be placed round the dish in small quantities, as a garnish.
Method.—Put the flour in a bowl and add enough milk to moisten it; carefully break down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in the rest of the milk and stir in the melted butter; keep mixing the batter, add the eggs and a pinch of salt, and when the batter is completely smooth, pour it into a well-buttered bowl, tie it down tightly, and place it in boiling water; move the bowl around for a few minutes after it’s in the water to prevent the flour from settling, and boil for 1-1/4 hours. This pudding can also be boiled in a floured cloth that’s been soaked in hot water, which will take a few minutes less than when boiled in a bowl. Serve these puddings quickly, with sweet sauce, wine sauce, stewed fruit, or any kind of jam: if using jam, a little can be placed around the dish in small amounts as a garnish.
Time.—1-1/4 hour in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. Average cost, 7d.
Time.—1 hour and 15 minutes in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
ORANGE BATTER PUDDING.
1249. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1-1/4 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour.
1249. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1-1/4 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 tablespoons of flour.
Mode.—Make the batter with the above ingredients, put it into a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 1 hour. As soon as it is turned out of the basin, put a small jar of orange marmalade all over the top, and send the pudding very quickly to table.
Mode.—Mix the batter with the ingredients listed above, pour it into a well-buttered bowl, cover it with a cloth, and boil for 1 hour. Once you take it out of the bowl, spread a small jar of orange marmalade over the top, and serve the pudding immediately.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, with the marmalade, 1s. 3d.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, with the marmalade, £1.03.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding.
Good at any time; but better suited for a winter pudding.
BAKED BREAD PUDDING.
1250. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel, 6 bitter almonds, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
1250. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of brown sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel, 6 bitter almonds, 1 tablespoon of brandy.
Mode.—Put the milk into a stewpan, with the bitter almonds; let it infuse for 1/4 hour; bring it to the boiling point; strain it on to the bread crumbs, and let these remain till cold; then add the eggs, which should be well whisked, the butter, sugar, and brandy, and beat the pudding well until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed; line the bottom of a pie-dish with the candied peel sliced thin, put in the mixture, and bake for nearly 3/4 hour.
Method.—Pour the milk into a saucepan, along with the bitter almonds; let it steep for 15 minutes; bring it to a boil; strain it over the bread crumbs, and let them sit until cool; then add the eggs, which should be beaten well, the butter, sugar, and brandy, and mix the pudding thoroughly until all the ingredients are well combined; line the bottom of a pie dish with thinly sliced candied peel, add the mixture, and bake for almost 45 minutes.
Time.—Nearly 3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Time.—About 45 minutes. Average cost, 6 pence and 8 pence.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—A few currants may be substituted for the candied peel, and will be found an excellent addition to this pudding: they should be beaten in with the mixture, and not laid at the bottom of the pie-dish.
Note.—You can swap out a few currants for the candied peel, and they will make a great addition to this pudding: you should mix them in with the batter instead of placing them at the bottom of the pie dish.
VERY PLAIN BREAD PUDDING.
1251. INGREDIENTS.—Odd pieces of crust or crumb of bread; to every quart allow 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 3 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1-1/4 oz. of butter.
1251. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover pieces of bread crust or crumbs; for every quart, use 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 3 ounces of brown sugar, 1/2 pound of currants, and 1-1/4 ounces of butter.
Mode.—Break the bread into small pieces, and pour on them as much boiling water as will soak them well. Let these stand till the water is cool; then press it out, and mash the bread with a fork until it is quite free from lumps. Measure this pulp, and to every quart stir in salt, nutmeg, sugar, and currants in the above proportion; mix all well together, and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish. Smooth the surface with the back of a spoon, and place the butter in small pieces over the top; bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour, and serve very hot. Boiling milk substituted for the boiling water would very much improve this pudding.
Method.—Tear the bread into small pieces and pour enough boiling water over them to soak them well. Let it sit until the water cools down; then squeeze out the water and mash the bread with a fork until it's completely lump-free. Measure this pulp, and for every quart, mix in salt, nutmeg, sugar, and currants in the specified amounts; combine everything well and transfer it into a well-buttered pie dish. Smooth the top with the back of a spoon, and place small pieces of butter over it; bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hours and serve hot. Using boiling milk instead of boiling water would significantly enhance this pudding.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 6d., exclusive of the bread.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 6d., not including the bread.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. Appropriate at any time.
BOILED BREAD PUDDING.
1252. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of currants, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.
1252. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of milk, 3/4 pint of bread crumbs, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of currants, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Make the milk boiling, and pour it on the bread crumbs; let these remain till cold; then add the other ingredients, taking care that the eggs are well beaten and the currants well washed, picked, and dried. Beat the pudding well, and put it into a buttered basin; tie it down tightly with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for 1-1/4 hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve with sifted sugar. Any odd pieces or scraps of bread answer for this pudding; but they should be soaked overnight, and, when wanted for use, should have the water well squeezed from them.
Method.—Heat the milk until it’s boiling, then pour it over the bread crumbs; let this sit until it's cool. Next, add the other ingredients, making sure that the eggs are well beaten and the currants are thoroughly washed, sorted, and dried. Mix the pudding well and transfer it to a buttered bowl; tightly secure it with a cloth, submerge it in boiling water, and boil for 1 hour and 15 minutes; then turn it out of the bowl and serve with powdered sugar. Any leftover pieces or scraps of bread can be used for this pudding, but they should be soaked overnight, and when you're ready to use them, make sure to squeeze out the excess water.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Duration: 1 hour 15 minutes. Average cost: 1s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. Appropriate at any time.
BREAD.—Bread contains, in its composition, in the form of vegetable albumen and vegetable fibrine, two of the chief constituents of flesh, and, in its incombustible constituents, the salts which are indispensable for sanguification, of the same quality and in the same proportion as flesh. But flesh contains, besides these, a number of substances which are entirely wanting in vegetable food; and on these peculiar constituents of flesh depend certain effects, by which it is essentially distinguished from other articles of food.
BREAD.—Bread has, in its makeup, vegetable proteins and fibers, which are two key components of meat. Its non-combustible elements include salts that are essential for blood formation, present in the same quality and amount as in meat. However, meat also contains several substances that are completely absent in plant-based foods. These unique components of meat are responsible for certain effects that fundamentally differentiate it from other food items.
BROWN-BREAD PUDDING.
1253. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of brown-bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, grated nutmeg to taste.
1253. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of brown bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoons of brandy, 2 tablespoons of cream, grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Grate 3/4 lb. of crumbs from a stale brown loaf; add to these the currants and suet, and be particular that the latter is finely chopped. Put in the remaining ingredients; beat the pudding well for a few minutes; put it into a buttered basin or mould; tie it down tightly, and boil for nearly 4 hours. Send sweet sauce to table with it.
Mode.—Grate 3/4 lb. of crumbs from a stale brown loaf; add the currants and suet, making sure the suet is finely chopped. Mix in the remaining ingredients; beat the pudding well for a few minutes; transfer it to a buttered basin or mold; cover it tightly, and boil for almost 4 hours. Serve with a sweet sauce.
Time.—Nearly 4 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—About 4 hours. Average cost, 1.5 shillings.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time; but more suitable for a winter pudding.
Good at any time; but better suited for a winter dessert.
MINIATURE BREAD PUDDINGS.
1254. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 1 teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel.
1254. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoons of brandy, 1 teaspoon of finely minced lemon peel.
Mode.—Make the milk boiling, pour it on to the bread crumbs, and let them soak for about 1/2 hour. Beat the eggs, mix these with the bread crumbs, add the remaining ingredients, and stir well until all is thoroughly mixed. Butter some small cups; rather more than half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, and serve with sweet sauce. A few currants may be added to these puddings: about 3 oz. will be found sufficient for the above quantity.
Mode.—Heat the milk until it’s boiling, then pour it over the bread crumbs and let them soak for about 30 minutes. Beat the eggs, mix them with the bread crumbs, add the other ingredients, and stir well until everything is evenly combined. Butter some small cups; fill them a little over halfway with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Serve with a sweet sauce. You can add a few currants to these puddings—about 3 oz. should be enough for this amount.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 10d.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 small puddings.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 small puddings.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
BAKED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING.
1255. INGREDIENTS.—9 thin slices of bread and butter, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, 1/4 lb. of currants, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-peel or nutmeg.
1255. INGREDIENTS.—9 thin slices of buttered bread, 1-1/2 pints of milk, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, 1/4 lb. of currants, and flavoring of vanilla, grated lemon zest, or nutmeg.
Mode.—Cut 9 slices of bread and butter not very thick, and put them into a pie-dish, with currants between each layer and on the top. Sweeten and flavour the milk, either by infusing a little lemon-peel in it, or by adding a few drops of essence of vanilla; well whisk the eggs, and stir these to the milk. Strain this over the bread and butter, and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, or rather longer. This pudding may be very much enriched by adding cream, candied peel, or more eggs than stated above. It should not be turned out, but sent to table in the pie-dish, and is better for being made about 2 hours before it is baked.
Mode.—Cut 9 slices of bread and butter them lightly, then place them in a pie dish with currants layered between each slice and on top. Sweeten and flavor the milk by either infusing a bit of lemon peel or adding a few drops of vanilla extract; whisk the eggs well and mix them into the milk. Strain this mixture over the bread and butter, and bake in a moderate oven for about 1 hour, or a little longer. You can enrich this pudding by adding cream, candied peel, or extra eggs beyond what’s mentioned above. It should not be turned out but served straight from the pie dish, and it’s best made about 2 hours before baking.
Time.—1 hour, or rather longer. Average cost, 9d.
Time.—1 hour, or a bit longer. Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BUTTER.—Butter is indispensable in almost all culinary preparations. Good fresh butter, used in moderation, is easily digested; it is softening, nutritious, and fattening, and is far more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous substances sometimes used in its place.
BUTTER.—Butter is essential in nearly all cooking. Good fresh butter, when used in moderation, is easy to digest; it is soothing, nutritious, and has a high-calorie content, and is much easier to digest than any other oily substances that are sometimes used instead.
CABINET or CHANCELLOR'S PUDDING.
CABINET or CHANCELLOR'S PUDDING.
1256. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of candied peel, 4 oz. of currants, 4 dozen sultanas, a few slices of Savoy cake, sponge cake, a French roll, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, grated lemon-rind, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 table-spoonfuls of sugar.
1256. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 oz. of candied peel, 4 oz. of currants, 4 dozen sultanas, a few slices of Savoy cake, sponge cake, a French roll, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, grated lemon zest, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 tablespoons of sugar.
[Illustration: CABINET PUDDING.]
[Illustration: Cabinet Pudding.]
Mode.—Melt some butter to a paste, and with it, well grease the mould or basin in which the pudding is to be boiled, taking care that it is buttered in every part. Cut the peel into thin slices, and place these in a fanciful device at the bottom of the mould, and fill in the spaces between with currants and sultanas; then add a few slices of sponge cake or French roll; drop a few drops of melted butter on these, and between each layer sprinkle a few currants. Proceed in this manner until the mould is nearly full; then flavour the milk with nutmeg and grated lemon-rind; add the sugar, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well beaten. Beat this mixture for a few minutes; then strain it into the mould, which should be quite full; tie a piece of buttered paper over it, and let it stand for 2 hours; then tie it down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil slowly for 1 hour. In taking it up, let it stand for a minute or two before the cloth is removed; then quickly turn it out of the mould or basin, and serve with sweet sauce separately. The flavouring of this pudding may be varied by substituting for the lemon-rind essence of vanilla or bitter almonds; and it may be made much richer by using cream; but this is not at all necessary.
Mode.—Melt some butter into a paste and thoroughly grease the mold or basin where the pudding will boil, making sure it's well buttered all over. Cut the peel into thin slices and arrange them in a decorative pattern at the bottom of the mold, filling the spaces with currants and sultanas; then add a few slices of sponge cake or French roll. Drizzle some melted butter on top of these and sprinkle a few currants between each layer. Continue this process until the mold is almost full; then flavor the milk with nutmeg and grated lemon zest; add the sugar, and whisk in the eggs, which should be well beaten. Mix this mixture for a few minutes; then strain it into the mold, which should be completely full. Cover it with a piece of buttered paper, let it sit for 2 hours, then secure it with a cloth, place it in boiling water, and let it simmer slowly for 1 hour. When removing it, let it sit for a minute or two before taking off the cloth; then quickly invert it out of the mold or basin and serve with sweet sauce on the side. You can change the flavor of this pudding by replacing the lemon zest with vanilla extract or bitter almond essence; and it can be made richer by using cream, but that’s not necessary.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Duration.—1 hour. Average cost, £1.15.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
A PLAIN CABINET or BOILED BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING.
A simple cabinet or boiled bread-and-butter pudding.
1257. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of raisins, a few thin slices of bread and butter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 1/4 nutmeg.
1257. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of raisins, a few thin slices of bread and butter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 1/4 nutmeg.
Mode.—Butter a pudding-basin, and line the inside with a layer of raisins that have been previously stoned; then nearly fill the basin with slices of bread and butter with the crust cut off, and, in another basin, beat the eggs; add to them the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg; mix all well together, and pour the whole on to the bread and butter; let it stand 1/2 hour, then tie a floured cloth over it; boil for 1 hour, and serve with sweet sauce. Care must be taken that the basin is quite full before the cloth is tied over.
Mode.—Grease a pudding basin and line the inside with a layer of pitted raisins; then almost fill the basin with slices of buttered bread with the crusts removed. In another bowl, beat the eggs; add the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg; mix everything together well, and pour it over the bread and butter. Let it sit for 30 minutes, then tie a floured cloth over it; boil for 1 hour, and serve with a sweet sauce. Make sure the basin is completely full before tying the cloth on top.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Duration.—1 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
CANARY PUDDING.
1258. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the weight of 2 eggs in flour, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs.
1258. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the weight of 2 eggs in flour, the zest of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs.
Mode.—Melt the butter to a liquid state, but do not allow it to oil; stir to this the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel, and gradually dredge in the flour, keeping the mixture well stirred; whisk the eggs; add these to the pudding; beat all the ingredients until thoroughly blended, and put them into a buttered mould or basin; boil for 2 hours, and serve with sweet sauce.
Mode.—Melt the butter until it's completely liquid, but don't let it get too hot; stir in the sugar and finely chopped lemon peel, and gradually add the flour while mixing well; whisk the eggs; add them to the mixture; beat all the ingredients until they're completely combined, then pour them into a buttered mold or bowl; boil for 2 hours, and serve with a sweet sauce.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 9d.
Duration: 2 hours. Average cost: 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
BAKED OR BOILED CARROT PUDDING.
1259. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of suet, 1/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of carrot, 1/4 lb. of currants, 3 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, milk, 1/4 nutmeg.
1259. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of suet, 1/4 lb. of pitted raisins, 3/4 lb. of carrots, 1/4 lb. of currants, 3 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, milk, 1/4 nutmeg.
Mode.—Boil the carrots until tender enough to mash to a pulp; add the remaining ingredients, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter. If to be boiled, put the mixture into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 2-1/2 hours: if to be baked, put it into a pie-dish, and bake for nearly an hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over it, and serve.
Mode.—Boil the carrots until they're soft enough to mash into a pulp; then add the remaining ingredients and mix in enough milk to achieve a thick batter consistency. If you're boiling it, place the mixture in a buttered bowl, cover it with a cloth, and boil for 2.5 hours. If you're baking it, pour it into a pie dish and bake for about an hour; then turn it out of the dish, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve.
Time.—2-1/2 hours to boil; 1 hour to bake. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—2.5 hours to boil; 1 hour to bake. Average cost, £1.10.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Seasonal from September to March.
CARROTS, says Liebig, contain the same kind of sugar as the juice of the sugar-cane.
CARROTS, Liebig says, have the same type of sugar as the juice from sugarcane.
ROYAL COBURG PUDDING.
1260. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of new milk, 6 oz. of flour, 6 oz. of sugar, 6 oz. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and grated nutmeg to taste.
1260. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of fresh milk, 6 oz. of flour, 6 oz. of sugar, 6 oz. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk, add the remaining ingredients gradually, and when well mixed, put it into four basins or moulds half full; bake for 3/4 hour, turn the puddings out on a dish, and serve with wine sauce.
Method.—Combine the flour with milk to create a smooth batter, then add the remaining ingredients slowly. Once everything is well combined, pour it into four bowls or molds, filling them halfway. Bake for 45 minutes, then turn the puddings out onto a plate and serve with wine sauce.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Duration.—45 minutes. Average cost, £1.45.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Appropriate at any time.
CHERRY TART.
1261. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of cherries, 2 small tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short crust, No. 1210 or 1211.
1261. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of cherries, 2 small tablespoons of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short crust, No. 1210 or 1211.
Mode.—Pick the stalks from the cherries, put them, with the sugar, into a deep pie-dish just capable of holding them, with a small cup placed upside down in the midst of them. Make a short crust with 1/2 lb. of flour, by either of the recipes 1210 or 1211; lay a border round the edge of the dish; put on the cover, and ornament the edges; bake in a brisk oven from 1/2 hour to 40 minutes; strew finely-sifted sugar over, and serve hot or cold, although the latter is the more usual mode. It is more economical to make two or three tarts at one time, as the trimmings from one tart answer for lining the edges of the dish for another, and so much paste is not required as when they are made singly. Unless for family use, never make fruit pies in very large dishes; select them, however, as deep as possible.
Method.—Remove the stems from the cherries and place them, along with the sugar, into a deep pie dish that can just hold them, with a small cup turned upside down in the middle. Make a short crust with 1/2 lb. of flour, using either recipe 1210 or 1211; create a border around the edge of the dish; add the top crust and decorate the edges; bake in a hot oven for 30 to 40 minutes; sprinkle with finely sifted sugar, and serve hot or cold, though serving it cold is more common. It's more economical to make two or three tarts at once since the trimmings from one tart can be used to line the edges of another dish, which means less dough is needed than if they are made separately. Unless it's for family use, avoid making fruit pies in very large dishes; instead, choose the deepest dishes available.
Time.—1/2 hour to 40 minutes.
30 to 40 minutes.
Average cost, in full season, 8d.
Average cost, during the full season, 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
Available in June, July, and August.
Note.—A few currants added to the cherries will be found to impart a nice piquant taste to them.
Note.—Adding a few currants to the cherries will give them a pleasant, tangy flavor.
[Illustration: CHERRY.]
[Illustration: CHERRY.]
CHERRIES.—According to Lucullus, the cherry-tree was known in Asia in the year of Rome 680. Seventy different species of cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, which are distinguishable from each other by the difference of their form, size, and colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur Darned kirsch-waser (eau de cérises); the Italians prepare, from a cherry called marusca, the liqueur named marasquin, sweeter and more agreeable than the former. The most wholesome cherries have a tender and delicate skin; those with a hard skin should be very carefully masticated. Sweetmeats, syrups, tarts, entremets, &c., of cherries, are universally approved.
CHERRIES.—According to Lucullus, the cherry tree was recognized in Asia in the year 680 of Rome. There are seventy different types of cherries, both wild and cultivated, that can be identified by their shape, size, and color. The French create a cherry liqueur called kirsch-waser (eau de cérises); the Italians make a sweeter and more pleasant liqueur called marasquin from a cherry known as marusca. The healthiest cherries have a soft and delicate skin; those with a hard skin should be chewed very carefully. Cherry treats, syrups, tarts, desserts, etc., are widely enjoyed.
COLD PUDDING.
1262. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, a little grated lemon-rind, 2 oz. of raisins, 4 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, a few slices of sponge cake.
1262. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, a bit of grated lemon zest, 2 oz. of raisins, 4 tablespoons of marmalade, a few slices of sponge cake.
Mode.—Sweeten the milk with lump sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well whisked; line a buttered mould with the raisins, stoned and cut in half; spread the slices of cake with the marmalade, and place them in the mould; then pour in the custard, tie the pudding down with paper and a cloth, and boil gently for 1 hour: when cold, turn it out, and serve.
Mode.—Sweeten the milk with sugar cubes, add a bit of grated lemon peel, and mix in the eggs, which should be well whisked; line a buttered mold with the raisins, pitted and halved; spread the slices of cake with the marmalade, and place them in the mold; then pour in the custard, cover the pudding with paper and a cloth, and boil gently for 1 hour: when cool, turn it out, and serve.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 1d.
Duration: 1 hour. Average cost: 1s. 1d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
COLLEGE PUDDINGS.
1263. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of bread crumbs, 6 oz. of finely-chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, 3 oz. of sugar, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1263. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of bread crumbs, 6 oz. of finely chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, 3 oz. of sugar, 1/4 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoons of brandy.
Mode.—Put the bread crumbs into a basin; add the suet, currants, candied peel, sugar, and nutmeg, grated, and stir these ingredients until they are thoroughly mixed. Beat up the eggs, moisten the pudding with these, and put in the brandy; beat well for a few minutes, then form the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces; fry these in hot butter or lard, letting them stew in it until thoroughly done, and turn them two or three times, till of a fine light brown; drain them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire; dish, and serve with wine sauce.
Mode.—Place the bread crumbs in a bowl; add the suet, currants, candied peel, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and mix everything together until it's well combined. Beat the eggs, use them to moisten the pudding mixture, and then add the brandy; mix thoroughly for a few minutes. Shape the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces; fry these in hot butter or lard, allowing them to cook until they're fully done, turning them two or three times until they turn a nice light brown. Drain them on a piece of blotting paper in front of the fire; plate, and serve with wine sauce.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, £0.01.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 puddings. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 7 or 8 puddings. Suitable at any time.
CURRANT DUMPLINGS.
1264. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, rather more than 1/2 pint of water.
1264. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, a little more than 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely, mix it with the flour, and add the currants, which should be nicely washed, picked, and dried; mix the whole to a limp paste with the water (if wanted very nice, use milk); divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; tie them in cloths, and boil for 1-1/4 hour. They may be boiled without a cloth: they should then be made into round balls, and dropped into boiling water, and should be moved about at first, to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet, mix it with the flour, and add the currants, which should be thoroughly washed, picked, and dried; combine everything into a smooth paste with water (for a richer taste, use milk); divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; wrap them in cloths and boil for 1-1/4 hours. They can be boiled without cloths: in that case, form them into round balls and drop them into boiling water, moving them around initially to prevent sticking to the bottom of the pot. Serve with a sliced lemon, cold butter, and powdered sugar.
Time.—In a cloth, 1-1/4 hour; without, 3/4 hour.
Time.—In a cloth, 1 hour and 15 minutes; without, 45 minutes.
Average cost, 9 d.
Average cost, 9 d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
[Illustration: ZANTE CURRANTS.]
[Illustration: ZANTE CURRANTS.]
ZANTE CURRANTS.—The dried fruit which goes by the name of currants in grocers' shops is not a currant really, but a small kind of grape, chiefly cultivated in the Morea and the Ionian Islands, Corfu, Zante, &c. Those of Zante are cultivated in an immense plain, under the shelter of mountains, on the shore of the island, where the sun has great power, and brings them to maturity. When gathered and dried by the sun and air, on mats, they are conveyed to magazines, heaped together, and left to cake, until ready for shipping. They are then dug out by iron crowbars, trodden into casks, and exported. The fertile vale of "Zante the woody" produces about 9,000,000 lbs. of currants annually. In cakes and puddings this delicious little grape is most extensively used; in fact, we could not make a plum pudding without the currant.
ZANTE CURRANTS.—The dried fruit known as currants in grocery stores isn’t actually a currant but a small type of grape, mainly grown in the Morea and the Ionian Islands, like Corfu and Zante. The grapes from Zante are cultivated in a large plain, protected by mountains along the shoreline, where the sun has a strong influence, helping them ripen. Once they're harvested and dried in the sun and air on mats, they're sent to storage facilities, piled up, and allowed to harden until they're ready for shipping. Then, they're dug out with iron crowbars, packed into barrels, and exported. The fertile valley of "Zante the woody" produces about 9,000,000 lbs. of currants each year. These delicious little grapes are widely used in cakes and puddings; in fact, we couldn’t make a plum pudding without them.
BOILED CURRANT PUDDING.
(Plain and Economical.)
Plain and Affordable
1265. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, milk.
1265. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of currants, milk.
Mode.—Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away any stalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding into a stiff batter; tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for 3-1/2 hours; serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar.
Mode.—Wash the currants, dry them well, and remove any stems or dirt; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together, and add enough milk to create a thick batter; wrap it in a floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and boil for 3-1/2 hours; serve with a sliced lemon, cold butter, and powdered sugar.
Time.—3-1/2 hours. Average cost, 10d.
Duration.—3.5 hours. Average cost, 10d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Appropriate at any time.
BLACK or RED CURRANT PUDDING.
Black or Red Currant Pudding.
1266. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of red or black currants, measured with the stalks, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, suet crust No. 1215, or butter crust No. 1213.
1266. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of red or black currants, measured with the stems, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, suet crust No. 1215, or butter crust No. 1213.
Mode.—Make, with 3/4 lb. of flour, either a suet crust or butter crust (the former is usually made); butter a basin, and line it with part of the crust; put in the currants, which should be stripped from the stalks, and sprinkle the sugar over them; put the cover of the pudding on; make the edges very secure, that the juice does not escape; tie it down with a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours. Boiled without a basin, allow 1/2 hour less. We have allowed rather a large proportion of sugar; but we find fruit puddings are so much more juicy and palatable when well sweetened before they are boiled, besides being more economical. A few raspberries added to red-currant pudding are a very nice addition: about 1/2 pint would be sufficient for the above quantity of fruit. Fruit puddings are very delicious if, when they are turned out of the basin, the crust is browned with a salamander, or put into a very hot oven for a few minutes to colour it: this makes it crisp on the surface.
Method.—Using 3/4 lb. of flour, prepare either a suet crust or a butter crust (the suet crust is typically preferred); grease a bowl and line it with some of the crust. Add in the currants, which should be removed from their stalks, and sprinkle sugar over them; place the pudding cover on top. Make sure the edges are sealed tightly so that the juice doesn’t escape; secure it with a floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and boil for 2-1/2 to 3 hours. If cooking without a bowl, reduce the time by 1/2 hour. We've used a generous amount of sugar, as we find that fruit puddings are much juicier and tastier when well sweetened before cooking, in addition to being more economical. Adding a few raspberries to red-currant pudding is a lovely enhancement: about 1/2 pint would be just right for this amount of fruit. Fruit puddings are especially delightful if, when turned out of the bowl, the crust is browned with a salamander or placed in a very hot oven for a few minutes to give it some color: this makes the surface nice and crispy.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3 hours; without a basin, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Time.—2.5 to 3 hours; without a basin, 2 to 2.5 hours.
Average cost, in full season, 8d.
Average cost, during the entire season, 8d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
In season in June, July, and August.
[Illustration: CURRANTS.]
[Illustration: CURRANTS.]
CURRANTS.—The utility of currants, red, black, or white, has long been established in domestic economy. The juice of the red species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms an agreeable substance called currant jelly, much employed in sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds. The French mix it with sugar and water, and thus form an agreeable beverage. The juice of currants is a valuable remedy in obstructions of the bowels; and, in febrile complaints, it is useful on account of its readily quenching thirst, and for its cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-coloured currants have, with the exception of the fullness of flavour, in every respect, the same qualities as the red species. Both white and red currants are pleasant additions to the dessert, but the black variety is mostly used for culinary and medicinal purposes, especially in the form of jelly for quinsies. The leaves of the black currant make a pleasant tea.
CURRANTS.—The usefulness of currants, whether red, black, or white, has been well recognized in home cooking for a long time. The juice of red currants, when boiled with an equal amount of loaf sugar, creates a tasty product known as currant jelly, which is commonly used in sauces and is very beneficial for treating sore throats and colds. The French combine it with sugar and water to make a refreshing drink. Currant juice is also a helpful remedy for constipation; in cases of fever, it effectively quenches thirst and has a cooling effect on the stomach. White and pink currants have the same qualities as red currants, except for their less intense flavor. Both white and red currants are delightful additions to desserts, while black currants are mainly used for cooking and medicinal purposes, especially in jelly form for treating throat issues. The leaves of black currants can also be used to make a nice tea.
RED-CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART.
1267. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of picked currants, 1/2 pint of raspberries, 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short crust.
1267. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of picked currants, 1/2 pint of raspberries, 3 heaping tablespoons of brown sugar, 1/2 lb. of short crust.
Mode.—Strip the currants from the stalks, and put them into a deep pie-dish, with a small cup placed in the midst, bottom upwards; add the raspberries and sugar; place a border of paste round the edge of the dish, cover with crust, ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour: strew some sifted sugar over before being sent to table. This tart is more generally served cold than hot.
Mode.—Remove the currants from the stems and put them into a deep pie dish, with a small cup placed upside down in the center; add the raspberries and sugar; create a border of pastry around the edge of the dish, cover with a crust, decorate the edges, and bake for 30 to 45 minutes. Sprinkle some sifted sugar on top before serving. This tart is usually served cold rather than hot.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Duration.—30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost.
Average price.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
Seasonal in June, July, and August.
[Illustration: RASPBERRY.]
[Illustration: RASPBERRY.]
RASPBERRIES.—There are two sorts of raspberries, the red and the white. Both the scent and flavour of this fruit are very refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome, and invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. We are not aware, however, of its being cultivated with the same amount of care which is bestowed upon some other of the berry tribe, although it is far from improbable that a more careful cultivation would not be repaid by a considerable improvement in the size and flavour of the berry; neither, as an eating fruit, is it so universally esteemed as the strawberry, with whose lusciousness and peculiarly agreeable flavour it can bear no comparison. In Scotland, it is found in large quantities, growing wild, and is eagerly sought after, in the woods, by children. Its juice is rich and abundant, and to many, extremely agreeable.
RASPBERRIES.—There are two types of raspberries: red and white. Both their scent and flavor are very refreshing, and the berries themselves are very nutritious and particularly beneficial for people with nervous or bile-related issues. However, we're not aware of them being grown with as much care as some other berries, though it's quite possible that more careful cultivation could lead to significant improvements in size and flavor. Additionally, as a fruit for eating, it's not as universally loved as strawberries, which are known for their sweetness and distinct flavor that raspberries can't match. In Scotland, raspberries grow wild in large quantities, and children eagerly search for them in the woods. Their juice is plentiful and, for many, very enjoyable.
BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING.
1268. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of 1/4 lemon, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 4 eggs.
1268. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of milk, the zest of 1/4 lemon, 1/4 lb. of granulated sugar, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Put the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon-rind, and let this infuse for about 4 hour, or until the milk is well flavoured; whisk the eggs, yolks and whites; pour the milk to them, stirring all the while; then have ready a pie-dish, lined at the edge with paste ready baked; strain the custard into the dish, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake in a very slow oven for about 1/2 hour, or rather longer. The flavour of this pudding may be varied by substituting bitter almonds for the lemon-rind; and it may be very much enriched by using half cream and half milk, and doubling the quantity of eggs.
Method.—Pour the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon zest, and let it steep for about 4 hours, or until the milk is well infused; whisk the eggs, both yolks and whites; then pour the milk into the egg mixture while continuously stirring; next, have a pie dish ready, lined at the edge with pre-baked crust; strain the custard into the dish, grate a little nutmeg on top, and bake in a very low oven for about 30 minutes, or a bit longer. You can change the flavor of this pudding by replacing the lemon zest with bitter almonds; and it can be greatly enhanced by using half cream and half milk, and doubling the number of eggs.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Duration.—30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate anytime.
Note.—This pudding is usually served cold with fruit tarts.
Note.—This pudding is typically served cold alongside fruit tarts.
BOILED CUSTARD PUDDING.
1269. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs, flavouring to taste.
1269. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoon of flour, 4 eggs, flavoring to taste.
Mode.—Flavour the milk by infusing in it a little lemon-rind or cinnamon; whisk the eggs, stir the flour gradually to these, and pour over them the milk, and stir the mixture well. Butter a basin that will exactly hold it; put in the custard, and tie a floured cloth over; plunge it into boiling water, and turn it about for a few minutes, to prevent the flour from settling in one part. Boil it slowly for 1/2 hour; turn it out of the basin, and serve. The pudding may be garnished with red-currant jelly, and sweet sauce may be sent to table with it.
Method.—Add some lemon peel or cinnamon to the milk to enhance its flavor; whisk the eggs, then gradually mix in the flour, and pour the milk over the mixture, stirring well. Grease a basin that fits the volume exactly; pour in the custard and cover it with a floured cloth; submerge it in boiling water, moving it around for a few minutes to keep the flour from settling. Let it simmer gently for 30 minutes; then turn it out of the basin and serve. You can garnish the pudding with red-currant jelly, and sweet sauce can be served alongside it.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 7d.
Duration: 30 minutes. Average cost: 7d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Suitable at any time.
DAMSON TART.
1270. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/4 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of short or puff crust.
1270. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/4 pints of damsons, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/2 lb. of short or puff pastry.
Mode.—Put the damsons, with the sugar between them, into a deep pie-dish, in the midst of which, place a small cup or jar turned upside down; pile the fruit high in the middle, line the edges of the dish with short or puff crust, whichever may be preferred; put on the cover, ornament the edges, and bake from 1/2 to 3/4 hour in a good oven. If puff-crust is used, about 10 minutes before the pie is done, take it out of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a froth with the blade of a knife; strew some sifted sugar over, and a few drops of water, and put the tart back to finish baking: with short crust, a little plain sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that will be required.
Mode.—Place the damsons in a deep pie dish, layering sugar in between them, and put a small upside-down cup or jar in the center. Pile the fruit high in the middle and line the edges of the dish with short or puff pastry, depending on your preference. Cover the pie, decorate the edges, and bake in a good oven for 30 to 45 minutes. If using puff pastry, about 10 minutes before it’s done, take it out of the oven, brush the top with beaten egg white using a knife, sprinkle some sifted sugar on top along with a few drops of water, and put it back in to finish baking. For short crust, just sprinkle a little sifted sugar over the top.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Duration.—30 to 45 minutes.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in September and October.
Seasonal in September and October.
[Illustration: DAMSONS.]
[Illustration: DAMSONS.]
DAMSONS.—Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice, wine, dried fruit or preserved, the damson, or damascene (for it was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is invaluable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy proportions, when full ripe. It is a fruit easily cultivated; and, if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks, it will grow several feet high in the first year, and make fine standards the year following. Amongst the list of the best sorts of baking plums, the damson stands first, not only on account of the abundance of its juice, but also on account of its soon softening. Because of the roughness of its flavour, it requires a large quantity of sugar.
DAMSONS.—Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice, wine, dried fruit, or preserves, the damson, or damascene (named because it originally came from Damascus), is priceless. When fully ripe, it has a perfect balance of sweetness and tartness. It's a fruit that's easy to grow; if you bud it nine inches above the ground on strong stocks, it can reach several feet in height in just the first year and produce nice standards the following year. Among the best baking plums, the damson ranks first due to its high juice content and its quick softening. Because of its strong flavor, it needs a lot of sugar to sweeten it.
DAMSON PUDDING.
1271. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of damsons, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet or butter crust.
1271. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pints of damsons, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet or butter crust.
Mode.—Make a suet crust with 3/4 lb. of flour by recipe No. 1215; line a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it; fill the basin with the damsons, sweeten them, and put on the lid; pinch the edges of the crust together, that the juice does not escape; tie over a floured cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Mode.—Make a suet crust using 3/4 lb. of flour following recipe No. 1215; line a buttered pudding basin with some of it; fill the basin with damsons, sweeten them, and place the lid on top; pinch the edges of the crust together to keep the juice from escaping; cover with a floured cloth, put the pudding in boiling water, and boil for 2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3 hours.
Duration.—2.5 to 3 hours.
Average cost, 8d.
Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable in September and October.
In season in September and October.
DELHI PUDDING.
1272. INGREDIENTS.—4 large apples, a little grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls of sugar, 6 oz. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215.
1272. INGREDIENTS.—4 large apples, a bit of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon of minced lemon peel, 2 large tablespoons of sugar, 6 oz. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215.
Mode.—Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices; put them into a saucepan, with the nutmeg, lemon-peel, and sugar; stir them over the fire until soft; then have ready the above proportion of crust, roll it out thin, spread the apples over the paste, sprinkle over the currants, roll the pudding up, closing the ends properly, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours.
Mode.—Peel, core, and slice the apples; place them in a saucepan with the nutmeg, lemon peel, and sugar; stir them over the heat until they're soft. Then prepare the crust in the specified amount, roll it out thin, spread the apples over the dough, sprinkle on the currants, roll the pudding up, sealing the ends well, wrap it in a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours.
Time.—2 hours.
Duration.—2 hours.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
EMPRESS PUDDING.
1273. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, jam, sufficient milk to soften the rice.
1273. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, jam, enough milk to soften the rice.
Mode.—Boil the rice in the milk until very soft; then add the butter boil it for a few minutes after the latter ingredient is put in, and set it by to cool. Well beat the eggs, stir these in, and line a dish with puff-paste; put over this a layer of rice, then a thin layer of any kind of jam, then another layer of rice, and proceed in this manner until the dish is full; and bake in a moderate oven for 3/4 hour. This pudding may be eaten hot or cold; if the latter, it will be much improved by having a boiled custard poured over it.
Method.—Cook the rice in the milk until it's very soft; then add the butter and boil it for a few more minutes after adding that. Set it aside to cool. Beat the eggs well, mix them in, and line a dish with puff pastry; add a layer of rice on top, then a thin layer of any kind of jam, followed by another layer of rice, and continue this way until the dish is full; then bake in a moderately hot oven for 45 minutes. You can enjoy this pudding hot or cold; if you choose cold, it will taste even better with a poured boiled custard on top.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Time.—45 minutes.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
EXETER PUDDING.
(Very rich.)
Wealthy.
1274. INGREDIENTS.—10 oz. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of sago, 7 oz. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 pint of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 small sponge cakes, 2 oz. of ratafias, 1/2 lb. of jam.
1274. INGREDIENTS.—10 oz. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of sago, 7 oz. of finely chopped suet, 6 oz. of brown sugar, the zest of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 pint of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoons of cream, 4 small sponge cakes, 2 oz. of ratafias, 1/2 lb. of jam.
Mode.—Put the bread crumbs into a basin with the sago, suet, sugar, minced lemon-peel, rum, and 4 eggs; stir these ingredients well together, then add 3 more eggs and the cream, and let the mixture be well beaten. Then butter a mould, strew in a few bread crumbs, and cover the bottom with a layer of ratafias; then put in a layer of the mixture, then a layer of sliced sponge cake spread thickly with any kind of jam; then add some ratafias, then some of the mixture and sponge cake, and so on until the mould is full, taking care that a layer of the mixture is on the top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven from 3/4 to 1 hour, and serve with the following sauce:—Put 3 tablespoonfuls of black-currant jelly into a stewpan, add 2 glasses of sherry, and, when warm, turn the pudding out of the mould, pour the sauce over it, and serve hot.
Method.—Put the bread crumbs into a bowl with the sago, suet, sugar, minced lemon peel, rum, and 4 eggs; mix these ingredients together well, then add 3 more eggs and the cream, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Next, grease a mold, sprinkle in a few bread crumbs, and cover the bottom with a layer of ratafias; then add a layer of the mixture, followed by a layer of sliced sponge cake spread generously with any kind of jam; then add some ratafias, then some of the mixture and sponge cake, and continue layering until the mold is full, ensuring that a layer of the mixture is on top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, and serve with the following sauce:—Put 3 tablespoons of black-currant jelly into a saucepan, add 2 glasses of sherry, and when warm, remove the pudding from the mold, pour the sauce over it, and serve hot.
Time.—From 1 to 1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—From 1 to 1.25 hours. Average cost, £0.12.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Appropriate at any time.
FIG PUDDING.
I.
1275. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of figs, 1 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs, milk.
1275. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of figs, 1 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs, milk.
Mode.—Cut the figs into small pieces, grate the bread finely, and chop the suet very small; mix these well together, add the flour, the eggs, which should be well beaten, and sufficient milk to form the whole into a stiff paste; butter a mould or basin, press the pudding into it very closely, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or rather longer; turn it out of the mould, and serve with melted butter, wine-sauce, or cream.
Mode.—Chop the figs into small pieces, grate the bread finely, and chop the suet very small; mix these together well, then add the flour, the eggs (which should be well beaten), and enough milk to create a stiff paste; butter a mold or bowl, pack the pudding into it tightly, cover it with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or a bit longer; remove it from the mold, and serve with melted butter, wine sauce, or cream.
Time.—3 hours, or longer. Average cost, 2s.
Time.—3 hours or more. Average cost, 2 shillings.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable.—Suitable for a winter pudding.
Seasonable.—Great for a winter pudding.
II.
(Staffordshire Recipe.)
(Staffordshire Recipe)
1276. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of figs, 6 oz. of suet, 3/4 lb. of flour, milk.
1276. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of figs, 6 oz. of suet, 3/4 lb. of flour, milk.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely, mix with it the flour, and make these into a smooth paste with milk; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch, cut the figs in small pieces, and strew them over the paste; roll it up, make the ends secure, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet, mix it with the flour, and create a smooth paste using milk; roll it out to about 1/2 inch thick, chop the figs into small pieces, and sprinkle them over the paste; roll it up, secure the ends, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil it for 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 1d.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours. Average cost, £1.05.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
FOLKESTONE PUDDING-PIES.
1277. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of ground rice, 3 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf, 6 eggs, puff-paste, currants.
1277. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of ground rice, 3 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, flavoring of lemon peel or bay leaf, 6 eggs, puff pastry, currants.
Mode.—Infuse 2 laurel or bay leaves, or the rind of 1/2 lemon, in the milk, and when it is well flavoured, strain it, and add the rice; boil these for 1/4 hour, stirring all the time; then take them off the fire, stir in the butter, sugar, and eggs, and let these latter be well beaten before they are added to the other ingredients; when nearly cold, line some patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with the custard, strew over each a few currants, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderate oven.
Mode.—Steep 2 bay leaves or the zest of 1/2 lemon in the milk, and once it’s well flavored, strain it and add the rice. Boil these for 15 minutes, stirring constantly; then remove from the heat, stir in the butter, sugar, and eggs (make sure the eggs are well beaten before adding them to the other ingredients). When it’s nearly cool, line some patty pans with puff pastry, fill them with the custard, sprinkle a few currants on top of each, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes in a moderate oven.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 1d.
Time.—20 to 25 minutes. Average cost, £0.06.
Sufficient to fill a dozen patty-pans.
Enough to fill a dozen patty pans.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
FRUIT TURNOVERS (suitable for Pic-Nics).
FRUIT TURNOVERS (great for picnics).
1278. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1206, any kind of fruit, sugar to taste.
1278. INGREDIENTS.—Puff pastry No. 1206, any type of fruit, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Make some puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and cut it out in pieces of a circular form; pile the fruit on half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet the edges and turn the paste over. Press the edges together, ornament them, and brush the turnovers over with the white of an egg; sprinkle over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk oven, for about 20 minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be boiled down with a little sugar first, and then inclosed in the crust; or jam, of any kind, may be substituted for fresh fruit.
Method.—Make some puff pastry using recipe No. 1206; roll it out to about 1/4 inch thick, and cut it into circular pieces. Place the fruit on half of the pastry, sprinkle some sugar on top, moisten the edges, and fold the pastry over. Press the edges together, decorate them, and brush the turnovers with egg white; sprinkle with sifted sugar, and bake on trays in a hot oven for about 20 minutes. Instead of using raw fruit, you can cook it down with a bit of sugar first, and then enclose it in the crust; alternatively, any kind of jam can be used instead of fresh fruit.
Time.—20 minutes.
Duration.—20 minutes.
Sufficient—1/2 lb. of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers.
Sufficient—1/2 lb. of puff pastry will make a dozen turnovers.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable anytime.
GERMAN PUDDING.
1279. INGREDIENTS.—2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1279. INGREDIENTS.—2 teaspoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of arrowroot, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, the zest of 1/2 lemon, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoons of brandy.
Mode.—Boil the milk with the lemon-rind until well flavoured; then strain it, and mix with it the flour, arrowroot, butter, and sugar. Boil these ingredients for a few minutes, keeping them well stirred; then take them off the fire and mix with them the eggs, yolks and whites, beaten separately and added separately. Boil some sugar to candy; line a mould with this, put in the brandy, then the mixture; tie down with a cloth, and boil for rather more than 1 hour. When turned out, the brandy and sugar make a nice sauce.
Method.—Boil the milk with the lemon peel until it's well flavored; then strain it and mix in the flour, arrowroot, butter, and sugar. Boil these ingredients for a few minutes, stirring constantly; then remove from the heat and mix in the eggs, with the yolks and whites beaten separately and added one at a time. Cook some sugar until it becomes candy; line a mold with this, pour in the brandy, then add the mixture; cover with a cloth, and boil for a little over 1 hour. When it's turned out, the brandy and sugar create a nice sauce.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—A little over 1 hour. Average cost, 1 shilling.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 people. Appropriate at any time.
DAMPFNUDELN, or GERMAN PUDDINGS.
DAMPFNUDELN, or German dumplings.
1280. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 5 eggs, 2 small tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-pounded sugar, milk, a very little salt.
1280. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 5 eggs, 2 small tablespoons of yeast, 2 tablespoons of finely ground sugar, milk, a tiny pinch of salt.
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin, make a hole in the centre, into which put the yeast, and rather more than 1/4 pint of warm milk; make this into a batter with the middle of the flour, and let the sponge rise in a warm temperature. When sufficiently risen, mix the eggs, butter, sugar, and salt with a little more warm milk, and knead the whole well together with the hands, beating the dough until it is perfectly smooth, and it drops from the fingers. Then cover the basin with a cloth, put it in a warm place, and when the dough has nicely risen, knead it into small balls; butter the bottom of a deep sauté-pan, strew over some pounded sugar, and let the dampfnudeln be laid in, but do not let them touch one another; then pour over sufficient milk to cover them, put on the lid, and let them rise to twice their original size by the side of the fire. Now place them in the oven for a few minutes, to acquire a nice brown colour, and serve them on a napkin, with custard sauce flavoured with vanilla, or a compôte of any fruit that may be preferred.
Method.—Put the flour in a bowl, make a well in the center, and add the yeast along with a little more than 1/4 pint of warm milk; mix it into a batter using the flour from the sides, and let the sponge rise in a warm place. Once it’s risen enough, combine the eggs, butter, sugar, and salt with a bit more warm milk, then knead everything together with your hands, beating the dough until it’s perfectly smooth and no longer sticks to your fingers. Cover the bowl with a cloth, place it in a warm area, and once the dough has risen nicely, shape it into small balls. Grease the bottom of a deep sauté pan, sprinkle some powdered sugar over it, and place the dumplings inside without them touching each other; then pour in enough milk to cover them, put a lid on, and let them rise to double their original size by the fire. Now bake them in the oven for a few minutes until they turn a nice brown color, and serve them on a napkin with custard sauce flavored with vanilla or a fruit compote of your choice.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour for the sponge to rise; 10 to 15 minutes for the puddings to rise; 10 minutes to bake them in a brisk oven.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes for the sponge to rise; 10 to 15 minutes for the puddings to rise; 10 minutes to bake them in a hot oven.
Sufficient for 10 or 12 dampfnudeln.
Enough for 10 or 12 dampfnudeln.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
GINGER PUDDING.
1281. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 2 large teaspoonfuls of grated ginger.
1281. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 2 large teaspoons of grated ginger.
Mode.—Shred the suet very fine, mix it with the flour, sugar, and ginger; stir all well together; butter a basin, and put the mixture in dry; tie a cloth over, and boil for 3 hours.
Mode.—Finely shred the suet, then mix it with the flour, sugar, and ginger; stir everything together well; butter a bowl, and put the mixture in dry; cover it with a cloth and boil for 3 hours.
Time.—3 hours. Average cost, 6d.
Duration: 3 hours. Average cost: 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
GOLDEN PUDDING.
1282. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of marmalade, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs.
1282. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of marmalade, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Put the bread crumbs into a basin; mix with them the suet, which should be finely minced, the marmalade, and the sugar; stir all these ingredients well together, beat the eggs to a froth, moisten the pudding with these, and when well mixed, put it into a mould or buttered basin; tie down with a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours. When turned out, strew a little fine-sifted sugar over the top, and serve.
Method.—Place the bread crumbs in a bowl; mix in the finely chopped suet, marmalade, and sugar; stir all the ingredients together well, beat the eggs until frothy, moisten the mixture with the eggs, and once it’s well combined, transfer it to a mold or greased bowl; cover it with a floured cloth and boil for 2 hours. When you turn it out, sprinkle a little finely sifted sugar on top, and serve.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 11d.
Duration: 2 hours. Average cost: 11d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Seasonable at any time.
Note.—The mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins, arranged in any fanciful pattern, before the mixture is poured in, which would add very much to the appearance of the pudding. For a plainer pudding, double the quantities of the bread crumbs, and if the eggs do not moisten it sufficiently, use a little milk.
Note.—The mold can be decorated with candied raisins, arranged in any creative design, before pouring in the mixture, which would greatly enhance the look of the pudding. For a simpler pudding, double the amount of bread crumbs, and if the eggs don't moisten it enough, add a little milk.
BAKED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.
1283. INGREDIENTS.—Gooseberries, 3 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of bread crumbs, sugar to taste.
1283. INGREDIENTS.—Gooseberries, 3 eggs, 1.5 oz. of butter, 0.5 pint of bread crumbs, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Put the gooseberries into a jar, previously cutting off the tops and tails; place this jar in boiling water, and let it boil until the gooseberries are soft enough to pulp; then beat them through a coarse sieve, and to every pint of pulp add 3 well-whisked eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to taste; beat the mixture well, put a border of puff-paste round the edge of a pie-dish, put in the pudding, bake for about 40 minutes, strew sifted sugar over, and serve.
Mode.—Place the gooseberries in a jar after trimming the tops and tails; set this jar in boiling water and let it boil until the gooseberries are soft enough to mash. Then, press them through a coarse sieve, and for each pint of pulp, add 3 well-beaten eggs, 1.5 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to taste. Mix everything thoroughly, then place a border of puff pastry around the edge of a pie dish, pour in the pudding, and bake for about 40 minutes. Sprinkle sifted sugar on top and serve.
Time.—About 40 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
Duration.—About 40 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from May to July.
Enough for 4 to 5 people. In season from May to July.
BOILED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.
1284. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1-1/2 pint of green gooseberries, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.
1284. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1-1/2 pints of green gooseberries, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar.
Mode.—Line a pudding-basin with suet crust no. 1215, rolled out to about 1/2 inch in thickness, and, with a pair of scissors, cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie over it a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours; turn it out of the basin, and serve with a jug of cream.
Mode.—Line a pudding bowl with suet crust no. 1215, rolled out to about 1/2 inch thick, and use scissors to trim the tops and tails off the gooseberries; fill the bowl with the fruit, add the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie a floured cloth over it, place it in boiling water, and boil for 2-1/2 to 3 hours; turn it out of the bowl and serve with a jug of cream.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3 hours. Average cost, 10d.
Time.—2.5 to 3 hours. Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from May to July.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. In season from May to July.
GOOSEBERRY TART.
1285. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of gooseberries, 1/2 lb. of short crust No. 1211, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.
1285. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pints of gooseberries, 1/2 lb. of short crust No. 1211, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar.
Mode.—With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in the centre, and put in the sugar; line the edge of the dish with short crust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart; bake in a good oven for about 3/4 hour, and before being sent to table, strew over it some fine-sifted sugar. A jug of cream, or a dish of boiled or baked custards, should always accompany this dish.
Mode.—Using a pair of scissors, trim the tops and bottoms of the gooseberries; place them in a deep pie dish, piling the fruit high in the center, and add the sugar. Line the edge of the dish with short crust, place the cover on, and decorate the edges of the tart. Bake in a good oven for about 45 minutes, and before serving, sprinkle some finely sifted sugar over it. A jug of cream or a dish of boiled or baked custards should always accompany this dish.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Duration.—45 minutes.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from May to July.
Available from May to July.
[Illustration: GOOSEBERRY.]
[Illustration: GOOSEBERRY.]
GOOSEBERRIES.—The red and the white are the two principal varieties of gooseberries. The red are rather the more acid; but, when covered with white sugar, are most wholesome, because the sugar neutralizes their acidity. Red gooseberries make an excellent jelly, which is light and refreshing, but not very nourishing. It is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and to invalids generally who need light and digestible food. It is a fruit from which many dishes might be made. All sorts of gooseberries are agreeable when stewed, and, in this country especially, there is no fruit so universally in favour. In Scotland, there is scarcely a cottage-garden without its gooseberry-bush. Several of the species are cultivated with the nicest care.
GOOSEBERRIES.—The red and white are the two main types of gooseberries. The red ones are a bit more tart; however, when topped with white sugar, they become very healthy since the sugar balances out their tartness. Red gooseberries make a fantastic jelly that's light and refreshing but not very filling. It's good for people with digestive issues and generally for those who need light, easily digestible food. You can create many different dishes with them. All kinds of gooseberries taste great when stewed, and here, especially, no fruit is more popular. In Scotland, you can hardly find a cottage garden without a gooseberry bush. Many varieties are grown with great care.
HALF-PAY PUDDING.
1286. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of treacle, 1/2 pint of milk.
1286. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons of treacle, 1/2 pint of milk.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely; mix with it the currants, which should be nicely washed and dried, the raisins, which should be stoned, the flour, bread crumbs, and treacle; moisten with the milk, beat up the ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into a buttered basin, and boil the pudding for 3-1/2 hours.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet; mix in the washed and dried currants, stoned raisins, flour, bread crumbs, and treacle; moisten with milk, beat all the ingredients until well combined, put them into a buttered basin, and boil the pudding for 3 1/2 hours.
Time.—3-1/2 hours.
Duration.—3.5 hours.
Average cost, 8d.
Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
HERODOTUS PUDDING.
1287. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of good figs, 6 oz. of suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 3 eggs, nutmeg to taste.
1287. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of quality figs, 6 oz. of suet, 6 oz. of brown sugar, 1/2 saltspoon of salt, 3 eggs, nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Mince the suet and figs very finely; add the remaining ingredients, taking care that the eggs are well whisked; beat the mixture for a few minutes, put it into a buttered mould, tie it down with a floured cloth, and boil the pudding for 5 hours. Serve with wine sauce.
Method.—Finely chop the suet and figs; mix in the other ingredients, ensuring that the eggs are thoroughly whisked; beat the mixture for a few minutes, pour it into a greased mold, cover it with a floured cloth, and boil the pudding for 5 hours. Serve with wine sauce.
Time.—5 hours.
Time.—5 hours.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable all year round.
HUNTER'S PUDDING.
1288. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 lb. of moist sugar, 8 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 3 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 drops of essence of lemon, 10 drops of essence of almonds, 1/2 nutmeg, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves.
1288. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 lb. of brown sugar, 8 eggs, 1 tablespoon of flour, 3 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 drops of lemon extract, 10 drops of almond extract, 1/2 nutmeg, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves.
Mode.—Stone and shred the raisins rather small, chop the suet finely, and rub the bread until all lumps are well broken; pound the spice to powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all these ingredients well together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a strong froth, and as they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon and essence of almonds; stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well, and add the brandy. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil it for 6 hours at the least: 7 or 8 hours would be still better for it. Serve with boiled custard, or red-currant jelly, or brandy sauce.
Mode.—Chop the raisins into small pieces, finely dice the suet, and crumble the bread until there are no lumps left; grind the spices to a powder, cut the candied peel into thin strips, and mix all these ingredients together, adding the sugar. Whisk the eggs until they're frothy, and as you whisk, add the lemon essence and almond essence; combine this mixture with the dry ingredients, mix well, and stir in the brandy. Wrap the pudding tightly in a cloth and boil it for at least 6 hours; 7 or 8 hours would be even better. Serve it with custard, red-currant jelly, or brandy sauce.
Time.—6 to 8 hours.
Duration.—6 to 8 hours.
Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, £3.30.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.
Enough for 9 or 10 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
ICED PUDDING.
(Parisian Recipe.)
(Parisian Recipe.)
[Illustration: ICED-PUDDING MOULD.]
[Illustration: ICED PUDDING MOULD.]
1289. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 2 oz. of bitter ones, 3/4 lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, 1-1/2 pint of milk.
1289. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 2 oz. of bitter ones, 3/4 lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, 1-1/2 pints of milk.
Mode.—Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then pound them in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste; add to these the well-beaten eggs, the sugar, and milk; stir these ingredients over the fire until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil; then strain and put the mixture into the freezing-pot; surround it with ice, and freeze it as directed in recipe 1290. When quite frozen, fill an iced-pudding mould, put on the lid, and keep the pudding in ice until required for table; then turn it out on the dish, and garnish it with a compôte of any fruit that may be preferred, pouring a little over the top of the pudding. This pudding may be flavoured with vanilla, Curaçoa, or Maraschino.
Method.—Blanch and thoroughly dry the almonds with a cloth, then grind them in a mortar until they reach a smooth paste. Add the well-beaten eggs, sugar, and milk; stir these ingredients over heat until they thicken, but do not let them boil. Strain the mixture and pour it into the freezing pot; surround it with ice and freeze it as instructed in recipe 1290. Once fully frozen, fill an iced pudding mold, place the lid on, and keep the pudding in ice until it's time to serve. Then, turn it out onto a dish and garnish it with a compôte of your preferred fruit, pouring a little over the top of the pudding. This pudding can be flavored with vanilla, Curaçao, or Maraschino.
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture.
Seasonable.—Served all the year round.
In season.—Served all year round.
ICED APPLE PUDDING. (French Recipe, after Carême.)
ICED APPLE PUDDING. (French Recipe, based on Carême.)
1290. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen apples, a small pot of apricot-jam, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1/4 pint of preserved cherries, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of almonds, 1 gill of Curaçoa, 1 gill of Maraschino, 1 pint of cream.
1290. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen apples, a small jar of apricot jam, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1/4 pint of preserved cherries, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of almonds, 1 gill of Curaçao, 1 gill of Maraschino, 1 pint of cream.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and simmer them over the fire until soft; then mix with them the apricot-jam and the sugar, on which the rind of the orange should be previously rubbed; work all these ingredients through a sieve, and put them into the freezing-pot. Stone the raisins, and simmer them in a little syrup for a few minutes; add these, with the sliced citron, the almonds cut in dice, and the cherries drained from their syrup, to the ingredients in the freezing-pot; put in the Curaçoa and Maraschino, and freeze again; add as much whipped cream as will be required, freeze again, and fill the mould. Put the lid on, and plunge the mould into the ice-pot; cover it with a wet cloth and pounded ice and saltpetre, where it should remain until wanted for table. Turn the pudding out of the mould on to a clean and neatly-folded napkin, and serve, as sauce, a little iced whipped cream, in a sauce-tureen or glass dish.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, then simmer them over the heat until they're soft. Mix in the apricot jam and sugar, which should be rubbed with the orange rind beforehand. Pass all these ingredients through a sieve and place them into the freezing pot. Remove the stones from the raisins and simmer them in a little syrup for a few minutes; then add these, along with the sliced citron, diced almonds, and cherries drained from their syrup, to the ingredients in the freezing pot. Add the Curaçao and Maraschino, and freeze again; incorporate as much whipped cream as needed, freeze again, and fill the mold. Put the lid on and submerge the mold into the ice pot; cover it with a damp cloth and crushed ice mixed with saltpetre, where it should stay until ready to serve. Turn the pudding out of the mold onto a clean, neatly folded napkin, and serve with a little iced whipped cream as a sauce, in a sauce tureen or glass dish.
[Illustration: ICE-SPATTLE.]
[Illustration: ICE-SPATTLE.]
[Illustration: ICE-FREEZING PAIL.]
[Illustration: ICE-FREEZING BUCKET.]
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture.
Seasonable from August to March.
Available from August to March.
Method of working the freezing Apparatus.—Put into the outer pail some pounded ice, upon which strew some saltpetre; then fix the pewter freezing-pot upon this, and surround it entirely with ice and saltpetre. Wipe the cover and edges of the pot, pour in the preparation, and close the lid; a quarter of an hour after, begin turning the freezing-pan from right to left, and when the mixture begins to be firm round the sides of the pot, stir it about with the slice or spattle, that the preparation may be equally congealed. Close the lid again, keep working from right to left, and, from time to time, remove the mixture from the sides, that it may be smooth; and when perfectly frozen, it is ready to put in the mould; the mould should then be placed in the ice again, where it should remain until wanted for table.
How to Use the Freezing Device.—Start by putting some crushed ice in the outer bucket, then sprinkle some saltpeter on top. Next, set the pewter freezing pot on this and surround it completely with ice and saltpeter. Wipe the cover and edges of the pot, pour in your mixture, and close the lid. After about fifteen minutes, begin turning the freezing pan from right to left. When you notice that the mixture is starting to firm up around the sides of the pot, stir it with a spatula or a flat utensil to make sure everything freezes evenly. Close the lid again, keep turning it from right to left, and occasionally scrape down the mixture from the sides to keep it smooth. When it's completely frozen, it’s ready to be placed in the mold; then put the mold back in the ice until you’re ready to serve it.
ROLY-POLY JAM PUDDING.
1291. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb of suet-crust No. 1215, 3/4 lb. of any kind of jam.
1291. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb of suet-crust No. 1215, 3/4 lb of any type of jam.
Mode.—Make a nice light suet-crust by recipe No. 1215, and roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Spread the jam equally over it, leaving a small margin of paste without any, where the pudding joins. Roll it up, fasten the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth; put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat or marmalade may be substituted for the jam, and makes excellent puddings.
Mode.—Make a light suet crust using recipe No. 1215, rolling it out to a thickness of about 1/2 inch. Evenly spread the jam over it, leaving a small margin of pastry without any jam where the pudding will seal. Roll it up, securely fasten the ends, and tie it in a floured cloth; place the pudding into boiling water and boil for 2 hours. You can substitute mincemeat or marmalade for the jam, which also makes excellent puddings.
Time.—2 hours.
Duration.—2 hours.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.
Seasonable.—Perfect for winter desserts when fresh fruit isn't available.
LEMON CHEESECAKES.
1292. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 eggs, the rind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3.
1292. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of granulated sugar, 6 eggs, the zest of 2 lemons and the juice of 3.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully grating the lemon-rind and straining the juice. Keep stirring the mixture over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to thicken: when of the consistency of honey, it is done; then put it into small jars, and keep in a dry place. This mixture will remain good 3 or 4 months. When made into cheesecakes, add a few pounded almonds, or candied peel, or grated sweet biscuit; line some patty-pans with good puff-paste, rather more than half fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 1/4 hour in a good brisk oven.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, carefully grating the lemon zest and straining the juice. Keep stirring the mixture over the heat until the sugar is dissolved and it starts to thicken; when it reaches the consistency of honey, it's done. Then transfer it into small jars and store them in a dry place. This mixture will stay good for 3 to 4 months. When making cheesecakes, add a few crushed almonds, or candied peel, or grated sweet biscuits; line some tart pans with good puff pastry, fill them a little over halfway with the mixture, and bake for about 15 minutes in a hot oven.
Time.—1/4 hour.
Time.—15 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 24 cheesecakes.
Enough for 24 cheesecakes.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
LEMON MINCEMEAT.
1293. INGREDIENTS.—2 large lemons, 6 large apples, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of citron, mixed spice to taste.
1293. INGREDIENTS.—2 large lemons, 6 large apples, 1/2 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of candied lemon peel, 1 oz. of citron, mixed spice to taste.
Mode.—Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until tender enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples, which should be pared, cored, and minced; the chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced peel, and spice. Strain the lemon-juice to these ingredients, stir the mixture well, and put it in a jar with a closely-fitting lid. Stir occasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will be ready for use.
Mode.—Peel the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until it’s soft enough to mash. Add the mashed lemon peel to the apples, which should be peeled, cored, and chopped; the chopped suet, currants, sugar, sliced peel, and spices. Strain the lemon juice into these ingredients, mix everything well, and put it in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Stir occasionally, and in a week to 10 days, the mincemeat will be ready to use.
Average cost, 2s.
Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient for 18 large or 24 small pies.
Enough for 18 large or 24 small pies.
Seasonable.—Make this about the beginning of December.
Seasonal.—Set this around early December.
LEMON DUMPLINGS.
1294. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon.
1294. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of grated bread, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon.
[Illustration: LEMON DUMPLINGS.]
LEMON DUMPLINGS
Mode.—Mix the bread, suet, and moist sugar well together, adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced. Moisten with the eggs and strained lemon-juice; stir well, and put the mixture into small buttered cups. Tie them down and boil for 3/4 hour. Turn them out on a dish, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve with wine sauce.
Method.—Combine the bread, suet, and wet sugar thoroughly, adding the lemon peel, which should be minced very finely. Mix in the eggs and strained lemon juice; stir well, and place the mixture into small buttered cups. Cover them and boil for 45 minutes. Unmold them onto a plate, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve with wine sauce.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Time.—45 minutes.
Average cost, 7d.
Average cost, 7 days.
Sufficient for 6 dumplings.
Enough for 6 dumplings.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BAKED LEMON PUDDING.
I.
1295. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, puff-crust.
1295. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. of powdered sugar, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter, puff pastry.
Mode.—Beat the eggs to a froth; mix with them the sugar and warmed butter; stir these ingredients well together, putting in the grated rind and strained juice of the lemon-peel. Line a shallow dish with puff-paste; put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 40 minutes; turn the pudding out of the dish, strew over it sifted sugar, and serve.
Mode.—Whisk the eggs until they're frothy; mix in the sugar and melted butter; combine these ingredients thoroughly, adding the grated zest and strained juice of the lemon. Line a shallow dish with puff pastry; pour in the mixture and bake in a moderate oven for 40 minutes; turn the pudding out of the dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and serve.
Time.—40 minutes.
Duration.—40 minutes.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, £1.00.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
II.
1296. INGREDIENTS.—10 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
1296. INGREDIENTS.—10 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoon of brandy.
Mode.—Bring the milk to the boiling point, stir in the butter, and pour these hot over the bread crumbs; add the sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel; beat the eggs, and stir these in with the brandy to the other ingredients; put a paste round the dish, and bake for 3/4 hour.
Mode.—Heat the milk until it boils, then stir in the butter and pour this hot mixture over the bread crumbs; add the sugar and very finely chopped lemon peel; beat the eggs and mix them with the brandy into the other ingredients; place a pastry around the dish and bake for 45 minutes.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Duration.—45 minutes. Average cost, £1.10.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable anytime.
[Illustration: LEMON.]
[Illustration: LEMON.]
LEMON.—The lemon is a variety of the citron. The juice of this fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing beverages—lemonade, which is gently stimulating and cooling, and soon quenches the thirst. It may he freely partaken by bilious and sanguine temperaments; but persons with irritable stomachs should avoid it, on account of its acid qualities. The fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic, and, when dried and grated, is used in flavouring a variety of culinary preparations. Lemons appear in company with the orange in most orange-growing countries. They were only known to the Romans at a very late period, and, at first, were used only to keep the moths from their garments: their acidity was unpleasant to them. In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an excellent counter-poison.
LEMON.—The lemon is a type of citron. The juice of this fruit creates one of our most popular and refreshing drinks—lemonade, which is mildly stimulating and cooling, and quickly satisfies thirst. It can be enjoyed by those with bilious and sanguine temperaments; however, people with sensitive stomachs should steer clear of it due to its acidic nature. The fresh rind of the lemon acts as a gentle tonic, and when dried and grated, it's used to flavor a variety of dishes. Lemons are often found alongside oranges in most orange-growing regions. They were only recognized by the Romans much later, initially used mainly to keep moths away from their clothing, since its acidity was unpleasant to them. In Pliny's time, the lemon was primarily known as an excellent antidote.
III.
(Very rich.)
Very wealthy.
1297. INGREDIENTS.—The rind and juice of 2 large lemons, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of almonds, 1/2 lb. of butter, melted.
1297. INGREDIENTS.—The zest and juice of 2 large lemons, 1/2 lb. of granulated sugar, 1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of almonds, 1/2 lb. of melted butter.
Mode.—Mix the pounded sugar with the cream, and add the yolks of eggs and the butter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch and pound the almonds, and put these, with the grated rind and strained juice of the lemons, to the other ingredients. Stir all well together; line a dish with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour.
Mode.—Combine the powdered sugar with the cream, then add the egg yolks and softened butter. Blanch and grind the almonds, then mix them in with the grated lemon zest and strained lemon juice. Mix everything together thoroughly; line a dish with puff pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake for 1 hour.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
Average cost, 2s.
Average cost, 2 shillings.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
BOILED LEMON PUDDING.
1298. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 small lemons, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 2 eggs, milk.
1298. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 small lemons, 6 oz. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 2 eggs, milk.
Mode.—Mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour well together, adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced, and the juice, which should be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put it into a well-buttered mould, and boil for 3-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve with wine sauce, or not, at pleasure.
Method.—Thoroughly mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour together, then add the finely minced lemon peel and the strained lemon juice. Once these ingredients are well combined, moisten the mixture with eggs and enough milk to achieve a thick batter consistency. Pour it into a well-buttered mold and boil for 3 and a half hours. Once it’s done, turn it out, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve with wine sauce if desired.
Time.—3-1/2 hours.
Duration.—3.5 hours.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Good at any time.
Note.—This pudding may also be baked, and will be found very good. It will take about 2 hours.
Note.—You can also bake this pudding, and it's really good. It will take about 2 hours.
PLAIN LEMON PUDDING.
1299. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard or dripping, the juice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar.
1299. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard or fat, the juice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoon of flour, sugar.
Mode.—Make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smooth paste, and roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch. Squeeze the lemon-juice, strain it into a cup, stir the flour into it, and as much moist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste; spread this mixture over the paste, roll it up, secure the ends, and tie the pudding in a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours.
Method.—Combine the specified amounts of flour and lard to create a smooth paste, then roll it out to about 1/2 inch thick. Squeeze the lemon juice, strain it into a cup, and mix in the flour along with enough moist sugar to form a stiff, thick paste; spread this mixture over the rolled-out paste, roll it up, seal the ends, and wrap the pudding in a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours.
Time.—2 hours.
Duration.—2 hours.
Average cost, 7d.
Average cost, 7 days.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate any time.
MANCHESTER PUDDING (to eat Cold).
MANCHESTER PUDDING (serve cold).
1300. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of grated bread, 1/2 pint of milk, a strip of lemon-peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, puff-paste, jam, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1300. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of grated bread, 1/2 pint of milk, a strip of lemon peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, puff pastry, jam, and 3 tablespoons of brandy.
Mode.—Flavour the milk with lemon-peel, by infusing it in the milk for 1/2 hour; then strain it on to the bread crumbs, and boil it for 2 or 3 minutes; add the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2, the butter, sugar, and brandy; stir all these ingredients well together; cover a pie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom put a thick layer of any kind of jam; pour the above mixture, cold, on the jam, and bake the pudding for an hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted sugar sprinkled over.
Method.—Add lemon peel to the milk by letting it steep for 30 minutes; then strain it over the bread crumbs and boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix in the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2, along with the butter, sugar, and brandy; combine all these ingredients well. Line a pie dish with puff pastry, and place a thick layer of any kind of jam at the bottom. Pour the mixture, which should be cold, over the jam, and bake the pudding for an hour. Serve it cold, with a little sifted sugar sprinkled on top.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
SWEET MACARONI PUDDING.
1301. INGREDIENTS.—2-1/2 oz. of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1301. INGREDIENTS.—2.5 oz. of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoons of brandy.
Mode.—Put the macaroni, with a pint of the milk, into a saucepan with the lemon-peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender; then put it into a pie-dish without the peel; mix the other pint of milk with the eggs; stir these well together, adding the sugar and brandy, and pour the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour. To make this pudding look nice, a paste should be laid round the edges of the dish, and, for variety, a layer of preserve or marmalade may be placed on the macaroni: in this case omit the brandy.
Mode.—Place the macaroni and a pint of milk in a saucepan with the lemon peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is tender. Then transfer it to a pie dish, leaving out the peel. Mix the other pint of milk with the eggs, stir them well together, and add the sugar and brandy. Pour this mixture over the macaroni. Grate a little nutmeg on top and bake in a moderate oven for 30 minutes. To make this pudding look nice, you should lay a pastry around the edges of the dish, and for variation, you can add a layer of preserve or marmalade on the macaroni; in this case, leave out the brandy.
Time.—3/4 hour to simmer the macaroni; 1/2 hour to bake the pudding.
Time.—45 minutes to simmer the macaroni; 30 minutes to bake the pudding.
Average cost, 11d.
Average cost, 11d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Timely at any time.
MACARONI is composed of wheaten flour, flavoured with other articles, and worked up with water into a paste, to which, by a peculiar process, a tubular or pipe form is given, in order that it may cook more readily in hot water. That of smaller diameter than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose-quill) is called vermicelli; and when smaller still, fidelini. The finest is made from the flour of the hard-grained Black-Sea wheat. Macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts of Italy, particularly Naples, where the best is manufactured, and from whence, also, it is exported in considerable quantities. In this country, macaroni and vermicelli are frequently used in soups.
MACARONI is made from wheat flour, flavored with other ingredients, and mixed with water to create a paste, which is then shaped into a tube or pipe form so it cooks more easily in boiling water. The version that is thinner than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose quill) is called vermicelli, and if it's even thinner, it's called fidelini. The best macaroni is made from hard-grained Black Sea wheat. It's a staple food in many parts of Italy, especially Naples, where the highest quality macaroni is produced and exported in large amounts. In this country, macaroni and vermicelli are often used in soups.
[Illustration: MACARONI.]
[Illustration: MAC & CHEESE.]
MANNA KROUP PUDDING.
1302. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs.
1302. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoons of manna kroup, 12 bitter almonds, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs.
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar; mix them with the manna kroup; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and let them steep for about 1/4 hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and the well-beaten eggs; mix all well together; put the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake for 1/2 hour.
Method.—Blanch and mash the almonds in a mortar; combine them with the manna kroup; pour a pint of boiling milk over them, and let it steep for about 15 minutes. When it's almost cool, add sugar and the beaten eggs; mix everything together well; place the pudding in a buttered dish, and bake for 30 minutes.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Appropriate at any time.
MANNA KROUP, SEMORA, or SEMOLINA, are three names given to a flour made from ground wheat and rice. The preparation is white when it is made only of these materials; the yellow colour which it usually has, is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks of eggs. Next to vermicelli, this preparation is the most useful for thickening either meat or vegetable soups. As a food, it is light, nutritious, wholesome, and easily digested. The best preparation is brought from Arabia, and, next to that, from Italy.
MANNA KROUP, SEMORA, or SEMOLINA are three terms used for a flour made from ground wheat and rice. It is white when made only from these ingredients, but the typical yellow color comes from added saffron and egg yolks. After vermicelli, this flour is the most effective thickener for both meat and vegetable soups. As food, it is light, nutritious, healthy, and easy to digest. The finest quality comes from Arabia, followed by Italy.
MANSFIELD PUDDING.
1303. INGREDIENTS.—The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped suet, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
1303. INGREDIENTS.—The crumbs from 2 rolls, 1 quart of milk, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoons of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped suet, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of cream.
Mode.—Slice the roll very thin, and pour upon it a pint of boiling milk; let it remain covered close for 1/4 hour, then beat it up with a fork, and sweeten with moist sugar; stir in the chopped suet, flour, currants, and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together, moisten with the eggs, brandy, and cream; beat the mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, put it into a buttered dish or mould, and bake in a moderate oven for 1-1/4 hour. Turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve.
Mode.—Slice the roll very thin, and pour a pint of boiling milk over it; let it sit covered for 15 minutes, then break it up with a fork and sweeten it with brown sugar; mix in the chopped suet, flour, currants, and nutmeg. Combine these ingredients well, then moisten with the eggs, brandy, and cream; whisk the mixture for 2 to 3 minutes, put it into a buttered dish or mold, and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Turn it out, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Duration—1.25 hours. Average cost, £1.15.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. Appropriate at any time.
MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.
1304. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered lump sugar, 4 eggs, puff-paste, a layer of any kind of jam.
1304. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 4 eggs, puff pastry, a layer of any kind of jam.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered sugar, whisk the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When these are well mixed, line a dish with puff-paste, spread over a layer of any kind of jam that may be preferred, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding for rather more than 1/2 hour.
Mode.—Cream the butter, mix in the powdered sugar, whisk the eggs, and add them to the other ingredients. Once everything is well combined, line a dish with puff pastry, spread a layer of your favorite jam on top, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding for just over 30 minutes.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes. Average cost, £0.01.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING.
1305. INGREDIENTS.—1 breakfastcupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, 1/4 lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk.
1305. INGREDIENTS.—1 breakfast cup of vermicelli, 2 tablespoons of marmalade, 1/4 lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk.
Mode.—Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain covered for 10 minutes; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins, sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into a buttered mould, boil for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with custard sauce.
Mode.—Pour some boiling milk over the vermicelli and let it sit covered for 10 minutes; then mix in the marmalade, pitted raisins, sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir everything together, put the mixture into a buttered mold, boil for 1-1/2 hours, and serve with custard sauce.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost. 1s.
Duration.—1.5 hours. Average cost. 1s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, &c.
MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with Roast Meat, in Soup, with Salad, etc.
(German Recipe.)
German Recipe
1306. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste.
1306. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 small rolls, 1 teaspoon of minced onion, 1 teaspoon of minced parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream; well whisk the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are well stirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very much disliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these into boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20 minutes or 1/2 hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as in Germany, where they are more frequently sent to table than in this country. They are very good.
Mode.—Mix the marrow and butter together until creamy; whisk the eggs well and add them to the other ingredients. Once everything is blended, add the rolls, which should be soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients, skipping the minced onion if that flavor is particularly disliked, and shape the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these into boiling broth and let them simmer for about 20 minutes to half an hour. They can be served in soup, with roast meat, or with salad, as is common in Germany, where they are served more often than in this country. They are really delicious.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 dumplings. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 7 or 8 dumplings. Good at any time.
BAKED OB BOILED MARROW PUDDING.
1307. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 oz. of marrow, 4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each; sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.
1307. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of breadcrumbs, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 oz. of marrow, 4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each; sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread crumbs, and let these remain covered for about 1/2 hour; shred the marrow, beat up the eggs, and mix these with the bread crumbs; add the remaining ingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into a buttered mould and boil it for 2-1/2 hours, or put it into a pie-dish edged with puff-paste, and bake for rather more than 3/4 hour. Before sending it to table, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned out of the mould or basin.
Mode.—Bring the milk to a boil, then pour it hot over the bread crumbs, and let it sit covered for about 30 minutes; shred the marrow, whisk the eggs, and combine these with the bread crumbs; add the other ingredients, mix the batter well, and either pour it into a buttered mold and boil it for 2.5 hours, or place it in a pie dish lined with puff pastry and bake for a little over 45 minutes. Before serving, dust a little powdered sugar on top after it’s been removed from the mold or basin.
Time.—2-1/2 hours to boil, 3/4 hour to bake. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—2.5 hours to boil, 45 minutes to bake. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good to enjoy at any time.
MILITARY PUDDINGS.
1308. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon.
1308. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of suet, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, the zest and juice of 1 large lemon.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely, mix it with the bread crumbs and sugar, and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice; stir these into the other ingredients, mix well, and put the mixture into small buttered cups, and bake for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn them out on the dish, and serve with lemon-sauce. The above ingredients may be made into small balls, and boiled for about 1/2 hour; they should then be served with the same sauce as when baked.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet, mix it with the breadcrumbs and sugar, mince the lemon zest, and strain the juice. Stir these into the other ingredients, mix well, and pour the mixture into small buttered cups. Bake for a little over 30 minutes; then turn them out onto a dish and serve with lemon sauce. The ingredients can also be shaped into small balls and boiled for about 30 minutes; they should be served with the same sauce as when baked.
Time.—Rather more than 1/2 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Time.—Just over 30 minutes. Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient to fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill 6 or 7 average-sized cups. Good any time.
MINCEMEAT.
1309. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of currants, 1-1/2 lb. of lean beef, 3 lbs. of beef suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 2 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 small nutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, 1/2 pint of brandy.
1309. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of currants, 1.5 lbs. of lean beef, 3 lbs. of beef fat, 2 lbs. of brown sugar, 2 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of candied lemon peel, 2 oz. of candied orange peel, 1 small nutmeg, 1 container of apples, the zest of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, and 0.5 pint of brandy.
Mode.—Stone and cut the raisins once or twice across, but do not chop them; wash, dry, and pick the currants free from stalks and grit, and mince the beef and suet, taking care that the latter is chopped very fine; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, and pare, core, and mince the apples; mince the lemon-peel, strain the juice, and when all the ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together, adding the brandy when the other things are well blended; press the whole into a jar, carefully exclude the air, and the mincemeat will be ready for use in a fortnight.
Mode.—Cut the raisins into pieces once or twice, but don’t chop them; wash, dry, and remove the stalks and grit from the currants, and mince the beef and suet, making sure the suet is chopped very finely; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nutmeg, peel, core, and mince the apples; mince the lemon peel, strain the juice, and when all the ingredients are prepared, mix them together well, adding the brandy when everything else is blended; press the entire mixture into a jar, making sure to exclude the air, and the mincemeat will be ready for use in two weeks.
Average cost for this quantity, 8s.
Average cost for this amount, 8s.
Seasonable.—Make this about the beginning of December.
Seasonal.—Make this around early December.
EXCELLENT MINCEMEAT.
1310. INGREDIENTS.—3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. of stoned raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. of sliced candied orange-peel, and the same quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade.
1310. INGREDIENTS.—3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. of pitted raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of brown sugar, 1 oz. of sliced candied citron, 1 oz. of sliced candied orange peel, and the same amount of lemon peel, 1 teacup of brandy, 2 tablespoons of orange marmalade.
Mode.—Grate the rinds of the lemons; squeeze out the juice, strain it, and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to pulp or chop very finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, which should be baked, and their skins and cores removed; put in the remaining ingredients one by one, and, as they are added, mix everything very thoroughly together. Put the mincemeat into a stone jar with a closely-fitting lid, and in a fortnight it will be ready for use.
Method.—Grate the lemon peels; squeeze out the juice, strain it, and boil the leftover lemon halves until they're soft enough to mash or chop very finely. Then add the baked apples, after removing their skins and cores; include the other ingredients one by one, and mix everything together very well as you add each one. Transfer the mincemeat into a stone jar with a tight-fitting lid, and it will be ready to use in two weeks.
Seasonable.—This should be made the first or second week in December.
Seasonable.—This should be made during the first or second week of December.
MINCE PIES.
1311. INGREDIENTS.—Good puff-paste No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309.
1311. INGREDIENTS.—Good puff pastry No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309.
[Illustration: MINCE PIES.]
[Illustration: Mince Pies.]
Mode.—Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and line some good-sized pattypans with it; fill them with mincemeat, cover with the paste, and cut it off all round close to the edge of the tin. Put the pies into a brisk oven, to draw the paste up, and bake for 25 minutes, or longer, should the pies be very large; brush them over with the white of an egg, beaten with the blade of a knife to a stiff froth; sprinkle over pounded sugar, and put them into the oven for a minute or two, to dry the egg; dish the pies on a white d'oyley, and serve hot. They may be merely sprinkled with pounded sugar instead of being glazed, when that mode is preferred. To re-warm them, put the pies on the pattypans, and let them remain in the oven for 10 minutes or 1/4 hour, and they will be almost as good as if freshly made.
Mode.—Make some good puff pastry using recipe No. 1205; roll it out to about 1/4 inch thick and line some good-sized tart pans with it; fill them with mincemeat, cover with the pastry, and trim it close to the edge of the tin. Place the pies in a hot oven to lift the pastry, and bake for 25 minutes, or longer if the pies are very large; brush them with egg white, beaten with a knife until stiff; sprinkle with powdered sugar, and return them to the oven for a minute or two to dry the egg; serve the pies on a white doily and enjoy them hot. They can be simply sprinkled with powdered sugar instead of being glazed if preferred. To reheat them, place the pies back in the tart pans and leave them in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, and they will be nearly as good as freshly made.
Time.—25 to 30 minutes; 10 minutes to re-warm them.
Time.—25 to 30 minutes; 10 minutes to warm them up again.
Average cost, 4d. each.
Average cost, 4d. each.
Sufficient—1/2 lb. of paste for 4 pies. Seasonable at Christmas time.
Sufficient—½ lb. of dough for 4 pies. In season at Christmas time.
MONDAY'S PUDDING.
1312. INGREDIENTS.—The remains of cold plum-pudding, brandy, custard made with 5 eggs to every pint of milk.
1312. INGREDIENTS.—The leftovers of cold plum pudding, brandy, and custard made with 5 eggs for every pint of milk.
Mode.—Cut the remains of a good cold plum-pudding into finger-pieces, soak them in a little brandy, and lay them cross-barred in a mould until full. Make a custard with the above proportion of milk and eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind; fill up the mould with it; tie it down with a cloth, and boil or steam it for an hour. Serve with a little of the custard poured over, to which has been added a tablespoonful of brandy.
Mode.—Cut the leftover cold plum pudding into strips, soak them in a bit of brandy, and arrange them crosswise in a mold until it’s full. Prepare a custard using the given amount of milk and eggs, adding nutmeg or lemon zest for flavor; fill the mold with it. Cover it with a cloth and boil or steam for an hour. Serve with a drizzle of custard on top, mixed with a tablespoon of brandy.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
Average cost, exclusive of the pudding, 6d.
Average cost, not including the pudding, 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal anytime.
NESSELRODE PUDDING. (A fashionable iced pudding—Carême's Recipe.)
NESSELRODE PUDDING. (A trendy iced pudding—Carême's Recipe.)
1313. INGREDIENTS.—40 chestnuts, 1 lb. of sugar, flavouring of vanilla, 1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino, 1 oz. of candied citron, 2 oz. of currants, 2 oz. of stoned raisins, 1/2 pint of whipped cream, 3 eggs.
1313. INGREDIENTS.—40 chestnuts, 1 lb. of sugar, vanilla flavoring, 1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino liqueur, 1 oz. of candied citron, 2 oz. of currants, 2 oz. of pitted raisins, 1/2 pint of whipped cream, 3 eggs.
Mode.—Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks, and pound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, adding a few spoonfuls of syrup. Then rub them through a fine sieve, and mix them in a basin with a pint of syrup made from 1 lb. of sugar, clarified, and flavoured with vanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixture over a slow fire, stirring it without ceasing, and just as it begins to boil, take it off and pass it through a tammy. When it is cold, put it into a freezing-pot, adding the Maraschino, and make the mixture set; then add the sliced citron, the currants, and stoned raisins (these two latter should be soaked the day previously in Maraschino and sugar pounded with vanilla); the whole thus mingled, add a plateful of whipped cream mixed with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a little syrup. When the pudding is perfectly frozen, put it into a pineapple-shaped mould; close the lid, place it again in the freezing-pan, covered over with pounded ice and saltpetre, and let it remain until required for table; then turn the pudding out, and serve.
Mode.—Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks, and mash them in a bowl until completely smooth, adding a few spoonfuls of syrup. Then, push them through a fine sieve and mix them in a bowl with a pint of syrup made from 1 lb. of sugar, clarified, and flavored with vanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of 12 eggs. Set this mixture over low heat, stirring it continuously, and just as it starts to boil, take it off and strain it through a tammy. When it's cool, pour it into a freezing pot, adding the Maraschino, and let the mixture set; then add the sliced citron, the currants, and stoned raisins (these latter two should have been soaked the day before in Maraschino and sugar blended with vanilla); mix everything together, then add a plateful of whipped cream mixed with the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a little syrup. When the pudding is completely frozen, put it into a pineapple-shaped mold; close the lid, place it back in the freezing pan, covered with crushed ice and saltpeter, and let it stay until you need it at the table; then turn the pudding out and serve.
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture.
Seasonable from October to February.
Available from October to February.
BAKED ORANGE PUDDING.
1314. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias, 6 oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of sugar.
1314. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of stale sponge cake or crushed ratafias, 6 oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of sugar.
Mode.—Bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and pour upon them the milk, which should be boiling. Rub the rinds of 2 of the oranges on sugar, and add this, with the juice of the remainder, to the other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to taste, and put the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-paste. Bake for rather more than 1/2 hour; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over, and serve.
Mode.—Crush the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and pour hot boiling milk over them. Grate the rinds of 2 of the oranges into the sugar, then add this along with the juice from the other oranges to the mix. Beat the eggs, stir them in, add sugar to taste, and pour the mixture into a pie dish that has been lined with puff pastry. Bake for a little over 30 minutes; then turn it out of the dish, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 1s, 6d.
Time.—A little over 1 hour. Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to May.
Enough for 3 or 4 people. Available from November to May.
[Illustration: ORANGE.]
[Illustration: ORANGE.]
ORANGE (Citrus Aurantium).—The principal varieties are the sweet, or China orange, and the bitter, or Seville orange; the Maltese is also worthy of notice, from its red blood-like pulp. The orange is extensively cultivated in the south of Europe, and in Devonshire, on walls with a south aspect, it bears an abundance of fruit. So great is the increase in the demand for the orange, and so ample the supply, that it promises to rival the apple in its popularity. The orange-tree is considered young at the age of a hundred years. The pulp of the orange consists of a collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and refreshing juice. The orange blossom is proverbially chosen for the bridal wreath, and, from the same flower, an essential oil is extracted hardly less esteemed than the celebrated ottar of roses. Of all marmalades, that made from the Seville orange is the best. The peel and juice of the orange are much used in culinary preparations. From oranges are made preserves, comfitures, jellies, glacés, sherbet, liqueurs, and syrups. The juice of the orange in a glass d'eau sucrée makes a refreshing and wholesome drink. From the clarified pulp of the orange the French make a delicious jelly, which they serve in small pots, and call crême. The rasped peel of the orange is used in several sweet entremets, to which it communicates its perfume. The confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from all parts of the orange. Confections of orange-peel are excellent tonics and stomachics. Persons with delicate stomachs should abstain from oranges at dessert, because their acidity is likely to derange the digestive organs.
ORANGE (Citrus Aurantium).—The main varieties are the sweet or China orange and the bitter or Seville orange; the Maltese is also notable for its dark red, blood-like pulp. Oranges are widely grown in southern Europe, and in Devonshire, they thrive on south-facing walls, producing plenty of fruit. With the rising demand for oranges and their ample supply, they are set to rival apples in popularity. An orange tree is considered young at just a hundred years old. The pulp of the orange is made up of elongated vesicles filled with sweet, refreshing juice. The orange blossom is famously chosen for bridal wreaths, and from the same flower, a highly valued essential oil is extracted, almost as esteemed as the famous ottar of roses. Of all marmalades, the one made from Seville oranges is the finest. The peel and juice of oranges are widely used in cooking. Oranges are made into preserves, jams, jellies, glazes, sherbets, liqueurs, and syrups. A glass of orange juice mixed with d'eau sucrée creates a refreshing and healthy drink. In France, the clarified pulp of oranges is transformed into a delicious jelly served in small pots, called crême. The grated peel of oranges is used in various sweet entremets, adding its fragrance. Confectioners create a range of treats from all parts of the orange. Orange-peel confections are excellent tonics and digestive aids. People with sensitive stomachs should avoid eating oranges for dessert, as their acidity can upset the digestive system.
SMALL DISHES OF PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS, SUPPER-DISHES, &c.
SMALL PASTRY DISHES FOR DESSERTS, DINNER DISHES, ETC.
FANCHONNETTES, or CUSTARD TARTLETS.
Custard tartlets.
1315. INGREDIENTS.—For the custard, 4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of flour, flavouring to taste; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar.
1315. INGREDIENTS.—For the custard, use 4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of powdered sugar, 3 dessert spoons of flour, and flavoring to taste; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Well beat the eggs; stir to them the milk, the butter, which should be beaten to a cream, the sugar, and flour; mix these ingredients well together, put them into a very clean saucepan, and bring them to the simmering point, but do not allow them to boil. Flavour with essence of vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or any flavouring ingredient that may be preferred. Line some round tartlet-pans with good puff-paste; fill them with the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes; then take them out of the pans; let them cool, and in the mean time whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; stir into this the pounded sugar, and spread smoothly over the tartlets a little of this mixture. Put them in the oven again to set the icing, but be particular that they do not scorch: when the icing looks crisp, they are done. Arrange them, piled high in the centre, on a white napkin, and garnish the dish, and in between the tartlets, with strips of bright jelly, or very firmly-made preserve.
Mode.—Beat the eggs well; mix in the milk, butter (which should be whipped to a cream), sugar, and flour; combine these ingredients thoroughly, then pour them into a very clean saucepan and heat them until they just start to simmer, but don’t let them boil. Add flavorings like vanilla essence, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or any other preferred flavor. Line some round tartlet pans with good puff pastry; fill them with the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes; then remove them from the pans; let them cool, and in the meantime, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Gradually mix in the powdered sugar and spread a little of this mixture smoothly over the tartlets. Return them to the oven to set the icing, but make sure they don’t burn: when the icing appears crisp, they’re done. Arrange them, piled high in the center, on a white napkin, and decorate the dish with strips of bright jelly or very firm preserves in between the tartlets.
Time.—20 minutes to bake the tartlets; 5 minutes after being iced.
Time.—20 minutes to bake the tartlets; 5 minutes after icing.
Average cost, exclusive of the paste, 1s.
Average cost, not including the paste, 1 shilling.
Sufficient to fill 10 or 12 tartlets.
Sufficient to fill 10 or 12 tartlets.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Note.—The icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets, and a spoonful of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custard instead: this varies both the flavour and appearance of this dish.
Note.—You can skip the icing on top of the tartlets and add a spoonful of any preserve at the bottom of the custard instead: this changes both the flavor and look of the dish.
ALMOND FLOWERS.
1316. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1205; to every 1/2 lb. of paste allow 3 oz. of almonds, sifted sugar, the white of an egg.
1316. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1205; for every 1/2 lb. of paste, use 3 oz. of almonds, sifted sugar, and the white of one egg.
Mode.—Roll the paste out to the thickness of 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required. Work the paste up again, roll it out, and, with a smaller cutter, stamp out some pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces over with the white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch and cut the almonds into strips lengthwise; press them slanting into the paste closely round the rings; and when they are all completed, sift over some pounded sugar, and bake for about 1/4 hour or 20 minutes. Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in the centre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry jam; pile them high on the dish, and serve.
Mode.—Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/4 inch, and use a round fluted cutter to cut out as many pieces as needed. Gather the leftover dough, roll it out again, and with a smaller cutter, cut out some pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces with egg white and place one of the smaller pieces on top of each. Blanch and slice the almonds lengthwise; press them at an angle into the dough around the rings. Once everything is done, sift some powdered sugar on top and bake for about 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and add a small amount of strawberry jam in the center of each ring; stack them high on a dish and serve.
Time.—1/4 hour or 20 minutes.
Time.—15 minutes or 20 minutes.
Sufficient.—18 or 20 for a dish.
Sufficient.—18 or 20 for a dish.
Seasonable at any time.
Available at any time.
FLUTED ROLLS.
1317. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste, the white of an egg, sifted sugar, jelly or preserve.
1317. INGREDIENTS.—Puff pastry, egg whites, powdered sugar, jelly or preserves.
Mode.—Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 (trimmings answer very well for little dishes of this sort); roll it out to the thickness of 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as many round pieces as may be required; brush over the upper side with the white of an egg; roll up the pieces, pressing the paste lightly together where it joins; place the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake for about 1/4 hour. A few minutes before they are done, brush them over with the white of an egg; strew over sifted sugar, put them back in the oven; and when the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour, they are done. Place a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, dish them high on a napkin, and serve cold.
Mode.—Make some good puff pastry using recipe No. 1205 (trimmings work great for small dishes like this); roll it out to a thickness of 1/4 inch, and using a round fluted pastry cutter, cut out as many round pieces as needed; brush the top side with egg white; roll up the pieces, pressing the pastry lightly where it meets; place the rolls on a baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes. A few minutes before they're done, brush them with egg white; sprinkle over sifted sugar, put them back in the oven, and when the topping is firm and a light brown color, they're ready. Place a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, stack them high on a napkin, and serve cold.
Time.—1/4 hour before being iced; 5 to 10 minutes after.
Time.—15 minutes before icing; 5 to 10 minutes after.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Sufficient.—1/2 lb. of puff-paste for 2 dishes.
Sufficient.—1/2 lb. of puff pastry for 2 dishes.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
PASTRY SANDWICHES.
1318. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg, sifted sugar.
1318. INGREDIENTS.—Puff pastry, any type of jam, egg white, powdered sugar.
Mode.—Roll the paste out thin; put half of it on a baking-sheet or tin, and spread equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that may be preferred. Lay over this preserve another thin paste; press the edges together all round; and mark the paste in lines with a knife on the surface, to show where to cut it when baked. Bake from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; and, a short time before being done, take the pastry out of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg, sift over pounded sugar, and put it back in the oven to colour. When cold, cut it into strips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve. These strips, cut about 2 inches long, piled in circular rows, and a plateful of flavoured whipped cream poured in the middle, make a very pretty dish.
Mode.—Roll out the dough thin; place half of it on a baking sheet or tin, and spread your choice of apricot, greengage, or any preserve evenly over it. Place another thin layer of dough over the preserve; press the edges together all around, and use a knife to mark lines on the surface, indicating where to cut after baking. Bake for 20 minutes to half an hour; shortly before it's done, take the pastry out of the oven, brush it with egg white, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and return it to the oven to brown. Once cooled, cut it into strips; stack these on a dish in a pyramid shape, and serve. These strips, cut about 2 inches long, arranged in circular layers, with a bowl of flavored whipped cream poured in the center, create a lovely presentation.
Time.—20 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 1s.
Time.—20 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of paste, £0.05.
Sufficient.—1/2 lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of sandwiches.
Sufficient.—1/2 lb. of paste will make 2 sandwich plates.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
PETITES BOUCHEES.
1319. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff-paste.
1319. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff pastry.
Mode.—Blanch the almonds, and chop them fine; rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar; mix this with the almonds and the white of the egg. Roll some puff-paste out; cut it in any shape that may be preferred, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, &c., and spread the above mixture over the paste. Bake the bouchées in an oven, not too hot, and serve cold.
Mode.—Blanch the almonds and chop them finely; rub the sugar onto the lemon peel and grind it in a mortar; mix this with the almonds and the egg white. Roll out some puff pastry; cut it into any shape you like, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, etc., and spread the mixture over the pastry. Bake the bouchées in a moderately hot oven and serve them cold.
Time.—1/4 hour, or rather more. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—15 minutes, or a bit more. Average cost, 1 shilling.
Sufficient for 1/2 lb. of puff-paste. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 1/2 lb. of puff pastry. Seasonable at any time.
POLISH TARTLETS.
1320. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste, the white of an egg, pounded sugar.
1320. INGREDIENTS.—Puff pastry, the white of an egg, powdered sugar.
Mode.—Roll some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it into 2-1/2-inch squares; brush each square over with the white of an egg, then fold down the corners, so that they all meet in the middle of each piece of paste; slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with the egg, sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about 1/4 hour. When they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, and fill it up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them high in the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish with the same preserve the tartlets are filled with.
Mode.—Roll out some good puff pastry thin and cut it into 2.5-inch squares; brush each square with egg white, then fold down the corners so they all meet in the center of each piece of pastry; gently press the two pieces together, brush them with egg, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a hot oven for about 15 minutes. When they are done, make a small hole in the center of the pastry and fill it with apricot jam, marmalade, or red currant jelly. Stack them high in the center of a dish on a napkin, and garnish with the same preserve used to fill the tartlets.
Time.—1/4 hour or 20 minutes.
Time.—15 minutes.
Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of puff-paste, 1s.
Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of puff pastry, £1.
Sufficient for 2 dishes of pastry.
Enough for 2 pastry dishes.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
Note.—It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of small pastry, such as the preceding, trimmings of puff-pasty, left from larger tarts, answer as well as making the paste expressly.
Note.—Keep in mind that for all small pastry dishes like the ones mentioned, leftover puff pastry from larger tarts works just as well as making the dough from scratch.
PUITS d'AMOUR, or PUFF-PASTE RINGS.
Love Pits, or Puff Pastry Rings.
1321. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1205, the white of an egg, sifted loaf sugar.
1321. INGREDIENTS.—Puff-paste No. 1205, the egg white, sifted loaf sugar.
Mode.—Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required; then work the paste up again, and roll it out to the same thickness, and with a smaller cutter, stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones. Again stamp out the centre of these smaller rings; brush over the others with the white of an egg, place a small ring on the top of every large circular piece of paste, egg over the tops, and bake from 15 to 20 minutes. Sift over sugar, put them back in the oven to colour them; then fill the rings with preserve of any bright colour. Dish them high on a napkin, and serve. So many pretty dishes of pastry may be made by stamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters, and filling the pieces, when baked, with jelly or preserve, that our space will not allow us to give a separate recipe for each of them; but, as they are all made from one paste, and only the shape and garnishing varied, perhaps it is not necessary, and by exercising a little ingenuity, variety may always be obtained. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, etc., are the most appropriate shapes for fancy pastry.
Mode.—Prepare some good puff pastry using recipe No. 1205; roll it out to about 1/4 inch thick and, with a round fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as you need. Then, gather the scraps, roll it out again to the same thickness, and with a smaller cutter, stamp out enough pieces to match the larger ones. Next, stamp out the centers of these smaller rings; brush the edges of the larger pieces with egg white, place a small ring on top of each large circular piece of pastry, brush the tops with egg, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Dust with sugar, return them to the oven to color, then fill the rings with preserves of any vibrant color. Arrange them high on a napkin and serve. You can create many beautiful pastry dishes by cutting puff pastry with fancy cutters and filling the baked pieces with jelly or preserves; however, we don't have the space to provide a unique recipe for each one. Since they all use the same pastry with only the shapes and toppings differing, it might not be necessary. With a little creativity, you can always come up with variety. Half-moons, leaves, diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, etc., are the most fitting shapes for fancy pastries.
Time.—15 to 25 minutes.
Time.—15 to 25 min.
Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 1s.
Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of paste, £1.
Sufficient for 2 dishes of pastry.
Enough for 2 pastry dishes.
Seasonable at any time.
Available anytime.
PARADISE PUDDING.
1322. INGREDIENTS.—3 eggs, 3 apples, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 wineglassful of brandy.
1322. INGREDIENTS.—3 eggs, 3 apples, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 wineglass of brandy.
Mode.—Pare, core, and mince the apples into small pieces, and mix them with the other dry ingredients; beat up the eggs, moisten the mixture with these, and beat it well; stir in the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould; tie it down with a cloth, boil for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with sweet sauce.
Method.—Peel, core, and chop the apples into small pieces, then mix them with the other dry ingredients; whisk the eggs, moisten the mixture with them, and mix well; stir in the brandy, and put the pudding into a greased mold; cover it with a cloth, boil for 1.5 hours, and serve with a sweet sauce.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Duration.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
PEASE PUDDING.
1323. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of split peas, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, pepper and salt to taste.
1323. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pints of split peas, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Put the peas to soak over-night, in rain-water, and float off any that are wormeaten or discoloured. Tie them loosely in a clean cloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on to boil in cold rain-water, allowing 2-1/2 hours after the water has simmered up. When the peas are tender, take them up and drain; rub them through a colander with a wooden spoon; add the butter, eggs, pepper, and salt; beat all well together for a few minutes, until the ingredients are well incorporated; then tie them tightly in a floured cloth; boil the pudding for another hour, turn it on to the dish, and serve very hot. This pudding should always be sent to table with boiled leg of pork, and is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to boiled beef.
Mode.—Soak the peas overnight in rainwater and remove any that are worm-eaten or discolored. Place them loosely in a clean cloth, leaving some space for them to expand, and boil them in cold rainwater, simmering for 2-1/2 hours once the water reaches a boil. When the peas are tender, drain them and push them through a colander with a wooden spoon. Add the butter, eggs, pepper, and salt; mix everything well for a few minutes until the ingredients are fully combined. Then tie them tightly in a floured cloth and boil the pudding for another hour. Turn it out onto a dish and serve it very hot. This pudding should always be served alongside boiled leg of pork and makes a great side for boiled beef.
Time.—2-1/2 hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hour for the pudding.
Time.—2.5 hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth; 1 hour for the pudding.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6p.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
BAKED PLUM-PUDDING.
1324. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candied peel.
1324. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candied peel.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely; mix with it the flour, currants, stoned raisins, and candied peel; moisten with the well-beaten eggs, and add sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of very thick batter. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a good oven from 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. For a very plain pudding, use only half the quantity of fruit, omit the eggs, and substitute milk or water for them. The above ingredients make a large family pudding; for a small one, half the quantity would be found ample; but it must be baked quite 1-1/2 hour.
Method.—Finely chop the suet; mix it with the flour, currants, pitted raisins, and candied peel; moisten with well-beaten eggs, and add enough milk to make the pudding a very thick batter. Pour it into a greased dish and bake in a good oven for 2 to 2.5 hours; then turn it out, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve. For a simpler pudding, use only half the amount of fruit, leave out the eggs, and replace them with milk or water. The ingredients listed make a large family pudding; for a smaller one, half the amount will be sufficient, but it should be baked for about 1.5 hours.
Time.—Large pudding, 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 hours; half the size, 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—Large pudding, 2 to 2.5 hours; half the size, 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, £2.50.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.
Enough for 9 or 10 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
[Illustration: RAISIN-GRAPE.]
[Illustration: RAISIN-GRAPE.]
RAISIN GRAPE.—All the kinds of raisins have much the same virtues; they are nutritive and balsamic, but they are very subject to fermentation with juices of any kind; and hence, when eaten immoderately, they often bring on colics. There are many varieties of grape used for raisins; the fruit of Valencia is that mostly dried for culinary purposes, whilst most of the table kinds are grown in Malaga, and called Muscatels. The finest of all table raisins come from Provence or Italy; the most esteemed of all are those of Roquevaire; they are very large and very sweet. This sort is rarely eaten by any but the most wealthy. The dried Malaga, or Muscatel raisins, which come to this country packed in small boxes, and nicely preserved in bunches, are variable in their quality, but mostly of a rich flavour, when new, juicy, and of a deep purple hue.
RAISIN GRAPE.—All types of raisins have pretty much the same benefits; they are nutritious and good for you, but they can easily ferment when mixed with any kind of juice, so eating them in large amounts can lead to stomach cramps. There are many grape varieties used for raisins; the fruit from Valencia is mainly dried for cooking, while most table varieties come from Malaga and are called Muscatels. The best table raisins are from Provence or Italy; the most sought after are those from Roquevaire, which are very large and very sweet. This type is usually only eaten by the wealthy. The dried Malaga or Muscatel raisins that arrive in this country in small boxes and neatly packaged in bunches can vary in quality, but they are mostly rich in flavor when fresh, juicy, and a deep purple color.
AN EXCELLENT PLUM-PUDDING, made without Eggs.
AN EXCELLENT PLUM PUDDING, made without Eggs.
1325. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of raisins, 6 oz. of currants, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of mashed carrot, 1/4 lb. of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of candied citron.
1325. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of raisins, 6 oz. of currants, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of mashed carrot, 1/4 lb. of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoon of treacle, 1 oz. of candied lemon peel, 1 oz. of candied citron.
Mode.—Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar well together; have ready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato, which stir into the other ingredients; add the treacle and lemon-peel; but put no liquid in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie it loosely in a cloth, or, if put in a basin, do not quite fill it, as the pudding should have room to swell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with brandy-sauce. This pudding is better for being mixed over-night.
Method.—Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar together thoroughly; have the specified amounts of mashed carrot and potato ready, and stir them into the other ingredients; add the treacle and lemon peel; but do not add any liquid to the mixture, or it will be ruined. Tie it loosely in a cloth, or if you use a basin, don’t fill it completely, as the pudding needs space to expand, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with brandy sauce. This pudding is better if mixed the night before.
Time.—4 hours.
Duration.—4 hours.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
£1.30
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable in winter.
Seasonal in winter.
AN UNRIVALLED PLUM-PUDDING.
1326. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of muscatel raisins, 1-3/4 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of the finest moist sugar, 2 lbs. of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of mixed candied peel, the rind of 2 lemons, 1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz. of ground cinnamon, 1/2 oz. of pounded bitter almonds, 1/4 pint of brandy.
1326. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lbs. of muscatel raisins, 1.75 lbs. of currants, 1 lb. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of the best moist sugar, 2 lbs. of bread crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 lbs. of finely chopped suet, 6 oz. of mixed candied peel, the zest of 2 lemons, 1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz. of ground cinnamon, 0.5 oz. of crushed bitter almonds, 1/4 pint of brandy.
Mode.—Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them; wash and dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all the dry ingredients well together, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well beaten and strained, to the pudding; stir in the brandy, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout new pudding-cloth; put in the pudding, tie it down very tightly and closely, boil from 6 to 8 hours, and serve with brandy-sauce. A few sweet almonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stuck on the pudding, ornament it prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds. For small families this is the most desirable way, as the above will be found to make a pudding of rather large dimensions.
Mode.—Chop the raisins, but don’t cut them too small; wash and dry the currants, and slice the candied peel thinly. Mix all the dry ingredients together thoroughly, and add the eggs, which should be well beaten and strained, to the mixture. Stir in the brandy, and once everything is well combined, generously butter and flour a sturdy new pudding cloth. Place the pudding in the cloth, tie it tightly, and boil for 6 to 8 hours. Serve it with brandy sauce. A few blanched almonds, sliced into strips and placed on top of the pudding, will make it look nice. This recipe can be split and cooked in buttered molds. For smaller families, this is the best option, as the recipe makes a rather large pudding.
Time.—6 to 8 hours. Average cost, 7s. 6d.
Time.—6 to 8 hours. Average cost, £0.375.
Seasonable in winter. Sufficient for 12 or 14 persons.
Appropriate in winter. Enough for 12 or 14 people.
Note.—The muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose (not in bunches): they are then scarcely higher in price than the ordinary raisins, and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding.
Note.—You can buy muscatel raisins at a low price sold loose (not in bunches): they're nearly the same price as regular raisins and add a much richer flavor to the pudding.
[Illustration: SULTANA GRAPE.]
[Illustration: Sultana Grape.]
SULTANA GRAPE.—We have elsewhere stated that the small black grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Isles is, when dried, the common currant of the grocers' shops; the white or yellow grape, grown in the same places, is somewhat larger than the black variety, and is that which produces the Sultana raisin. It has been called Sultana from its delicate qualities and unique growth: the finest are those of Smyrna. They have not sufficient flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for puddings and cakes, but they are peculiarly valuable for mixing, that is to say, for introducing in company with the richer sorts of Valencias or Muscatels. In white puddings, or cakes, too, where the whiteness must be preserved, the Sultana raisin should be used. But the greatest value of this fruit in the cuisine is that of its saving labour; for it has no stones. Half Muscatels and half Sultanas are an admirable mixture for general purposes.
SULTANA GRAPE.—We've mentioned before that the small black grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Islands, when dried, is the common currant found in grocery stores. The white or yellow grape from the same regions is a bit larger than the black variety and produces the Sultana raisin. It's named Sultana because of its delicate qualities and unique growth; the best come from Smyrna. They don't have enough flavor or sweetness to use alone in puddings and cakes, but they're especially valuable for mixing, meaning they pair well with richer varieties like Valencias or Muscatels. In white puddings or cakes, where keeping the color light is important, Sultana raisins should be used. The greatest benefit of this fruit in cooking is its convenience; it has no seeds. A mix of half Muscatels and half Sultanas makes an excellent combination for various uses.
A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN.
1327. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 3/4 lb. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk, 2 oz. of candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of powdered allspice, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
1327. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of pitted raisins, 3/4 lb. of currants, 3/4 lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk, 2 oz. of candied peel, 1 teaspoon of powdered allspice, 1/2 salt teaspoon of salt.
Mode.—Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins stoned, and the currants well washed, picked, and dried. Mix these with the other dry ingredients, and stir all well together; beat and strain the eggs to the pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it mix properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly placed in the middle of the pudding, and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet, remove the stones from the raisins, and thoroughly wash, pick, and dry the currants. Combine these with the other dry ingredients and mix everything well. Beat and strain the eggs into the mixture, then stir them in and add just enough milk to achieve a proper consistency. Wrap it in a well-floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly in the center of the pudding and a sprinkle of powdered sugar on top.
Time.—5 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Duration.—5 hours. Average cost, £1.45.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 children. Seasonable at Christmas.
Enough for 9 or 10 kids. Available at Christmas time.
RAISINS.—Raisins are grapes, prepared by suffering them to remain on the vine until they are perfectly ripe, and then drying them in the sun or by the heat of an oven. The sun-dried grapes are sweet, the oven-dried of an acid flavour. The common way of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches of them together, whilst yet on the vine, and dip them into a hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little of the oil of olives: this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle, after which they are left on the vine three or four days, separated, on sticks in a horizontal situation, and then dried in the sun at leisure, after being cut from the tree.
RAISINS.—Raisins are grapes that are left on the vine until they are fully ripe and then dried in the sun or in an oven. Sun-dried grapes are sweet, while oven-dried ones have a sour taste. The typical method for making raisins involves tying two or three bunches together while they are still on the vine and dipping them in a hot solution of wood ash mixed with a bit of olive oil. This process helps them shrink and wrinkle. After that, they remain on the vine for three or four days, separated on sticks laid horizontally, and then are leisurely dried in the sun after being cut from the vine.
CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING.
(Very Good.)
(Very Good.)
1328. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of mixed peel, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of suet, 8 eggs, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
1328. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 lbs. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of mixed peel, 3/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3/4 lb. of suet, 8 eggs, 1 wineglass of brandy.
[Illustration: CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING IN MOULD.]
[Illustration: Christmas Plum Pudding in Mold.]
Mode.—Stone and cut the raisins in halves, but do not chop them; wash, pick, and dry the currants, and mince the suet finely; cut the candied peel into thin slices, and grate down the bread into fine crumbs. When all these dry ingredients are prepared, mix them well together; then moisten the mixture with the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the brandy; stir well, that everything may be very thoroughly blended, and press the pudding into a buttered mould; tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It may be boiled in a cloth without a mould, and will require the same time allowed for cooking. As Christmas puddings are usually made a few days before they are required for table, when the pudding is taken out of the pot, hang it up immediately, and put a plate or saucer underneath to catch the water that may drain from it. The day it is to be eaten, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours; then turn it out of the mould, and serve with brandy-sauce. On Christmas-day a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of the pudding, and about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it, which, at the moment of serving, is lighted, and the pudding thus brought to table encircled in flame.
Mode.—Cut the raisins in half, but don’t chop them; wash, pick, and dry the currants, and finely mince the suet; slice the candied peel into thin pieces, and grate the bread into fine crumbs. Once all these dry ingredients are ready, mix them well together; then moisten the mixture with well-beaten eggs and brandy; stir thoroughly so everything is well combined, and press the pudding into a buttered mold; tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours. It can also be boiled in a cloth without a mold, taking the same amount of time to cook. Since Christmas puddings are typically made a few days before they're served, when you take the pudding out of the pot, hang it up right away, placing a plate or saucer underneath to catch any draining water. On the day it will be eaten, plunge it into boiling water and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours; then turn it out of the mold and serve with brandy sauce. On Christmas Day, a sprig of holly is usually placed in the center of the pudding, and about a wineglassful of brandy is poured around it, which is then lit at the moment of serving, bringing the pudding to the table surrounded by flame.
Time.—5 or 6 hours the first time of boiling; 2 hours the day it is to be served.
Time.—5 or 6 hours for the first boil; 2 hours on the day it is to be served.
Average cost, 4s.
Average cost, 4 shillings.
Sufficient for a quart mould for 7 or 8 persons.
Sufficient for a quart mold for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable on the 25th of December, and on various festive occasions till March.
In season on December 25th and during various festive occasions until March.
Note.—Five or six of these puddings should be made at one time, as they will keep good for many weeks, and in cases where unexpected guests arrive, will be found an acceptable, and, as it only requires warming through, a quickly-prepared dish. Moulds of every shape and size are manufactured for these puddings, and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.
Note.—You should make five or six of these puddings at once, as they will stay fresh for many weeks. In case unexpected guests show up, they make a great, easy-to-prepare dish since they just need to be warmed up. Molds of all shapes and sizes are made for these puddings and can be bought from Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.
BRANDY is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine, separated from the aqueous part, the colouring matter, &c., by distillation. The word is of German origin, and in its German form, brantuein, signifies burnt wine, or wine that has undergone the action of fire; brandies, so called, however, have been made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot, pears, and other vegetable substances; but they are all inferior to true brandy. Brandy is prepared in most wine countries, but that of France is the most esteemed. It is procured not only by distilling the wine itself, but also by fermenting and distilling the marc, or residue of the pressings of the grape. It is procured indifferently from red or white wine, and different wines yield very different proportions of it, the strongest, of course, giving the largest quantity. Brandy obtained from marc has a more acrid taste than that from wine. The celebrated brandy of Cognac, a town in the department of Charente, and that brought from Andraye, seem to owe their excellence from being made from white wine. Like other spirit, brandy is colourless when recently distilled; by mere keeping, however, owing, probably, to some change in the soluble matter contained in it, it acquires a slight colour, which is much increased by keeping in casks, and is made of the required intensity by the addition of burnt sugar or other colouring matter. What is called British brandy is not, in fact, brandy, which is the name, as we have said, of a spirit distilled from wine; but is a spirit made chiefly from malt spirit, with the addition of mineral acids and various flavouring ingredients, the exact composition being kept secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country; real brandy scarcely at all. The brandies imported into England are chiefly from Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac.
BRANDY is the alcoholic part of wine, separated from the water and coloring agents through distillation. The word comes from German, where brantuein means burnt wine, or wine that has been heated. However, brandies can also be made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot, pears, and other plant materials, but they are all considered inferior to true brandy. Brandy is produced in most wine-producing countries, but French brandy is the most highly regarded. It's obtained not just by distilling the wine itself but also by fermenting and distilling the marc, or the leftover residue from grape pressing. Brandy can come from either red or white wine, and different wines yield varying amounts, with the stronger wines producing more. Brandy from marc often has a sharper taste compared to that made from wine. The famous brandy from Cognac, a town in the Charente region, and the brandy from Andraye are particularly esteemed for being made from white wine. Like other spirits, brandy is colorless right after distillation; however, over time, it picks up a slight color, likely due to changes in the soluble matter, which intensifies when aged in barrels. This color can be enhanced to the desired level by adding burnt sugar or other coloring agents. What is known as British brandy is not true brandy, which is defined as a spirit distilled from wine; instead, it's primarily made from malt spirit, combined with mineral acids and various flavoring agents, with the exact formula kept secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country; real brandy is hardly produced at all. The brandies imported into England mostly come from Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac.
A POUND PLUM-PUDDING.
1329. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of stoned raisins, 8 eggs, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of milk.
1329. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of pitted raisins, 8 eggs, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied peel, 1 teaspoon of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of milk.
[Illustration: BAKED PUDDING OR CAKE-MOULD.]
[Illustration: Baked pudding or cake mold.]
Mode.—Chop the suet finely; mix with it the dry ingredients; stir these well together, and add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moisten with. Beat up the mixture well, and should the above proportion of milk not be found sufficient to make it of the proper consistency, a little more should be added. Press the pudding into a mould, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for 5 hours, or rather longer, and serve with brandy-sauce.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet; mix it with the dry ingredients; stir these together well, then add the well-beaten eggs and milk to moisten. Beat the mixture thoroughly, and if the amount of milk isn't enough to get the right consistency, add a little more. Press the pudding into a mold, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for 5 hours or a bit longer, then serve with brandy sauce.
Time.—5 hours, or longer. Average cost, 3s.
Time.—5 hours or more. Average cost, 3 shillings.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Appropriate in winter.
Note.—The above pudding may be baked instead of boiled; it should be put into a buttered mould or tin, and baked for about 2 hours; a smaller one would take about 1-1/4 hour.
Note.—The pudding mentioned above can be baked instead of boiled; it should be placed in
CITRON.—The fruit of the citron-tree (Citrus medica) is acidulous, antiseptic, and antiscorbutic: it excites the appetite, and stops vomiting, and, like lemon-juice, has been greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed with cordials, it is used as an antidote to the machineel poison. The candied peel is prepared in the same manner as orange or lemon-peel; that is to say, the peel is boiled in water until quite soft, and then suspended in concentrated syrup (in the cold), after which it is either dried in a current of warm air, or in a stove, at a heat not exceeding 120° Fahrenheit. The syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by reboiling it once or twice during the process. It may be dusted with powdered lump sugar, if necessary. The citron is supposed to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple of the Greeks. It is described by Risso as having a majestic appearance, its shining leaves and rosy flowers being succeeded by fruit whose beauty and size astonish the observer, whilst their odour gratifies his senses. In China there is an enormous variety, but the citron is cultivated in all orange-growing countries.
CITRON.—The fruit of the citron tree (Citrus medica) is tangy, antiseptic, and helps prevent scurvy: it boosts appetite and eases vomiting, and like lemon juice, is highly praised for treating chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed with liqueurs, it acts as an antidote to machineel poison. The candied peel is made similarly to orange or lemon peel; that is, the peel is boiled in water until it’s very soft, then soaked in concentrated syrup (while cold), after which it is either dried in warm air or in an oven at a temperature not exceeding 120° Fahrenheit. The syrup needs to stay fully saturated with sugar by reboiling it once or twice during the process. It can be dusted with powdered sugar if needed. The citron is believed to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple from Greek texts. Risso describes it as having a grand appearance, with shiny leaves and rosy flowers followed by fruit that astonishes observers with its beauty and size, while its fragrance delights the senses. In China, there are numerous varieties, but the citron is grown in all orange-producing countries.
PLUM-PUDDING OF FRESH FRUIT.
1330. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1-1/2 pint of Orleans or any other kind of plum, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.
1330. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of suet crust, 1-1/2 pints of Orleans or any type of plum, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar.
Mode.—Line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over, and pinch them together, to prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it out of the basin, and serve quickly.
Mode.—Line a pudding bowl with suet crust rolled out to about 1/2 inch thick; fill the bowl with the fruit, add the sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over and pinch them together to stop the juice from escaping. Tie a floured cloth over it, place the pudding in boiling water, and boil for 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it out of the bowl and serve immediately.
Time.—2 to 2-1/2 hours.
Duration.—2 to 2.5 hours.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August to the beginning of October.
Seasonable, with different types of plums, from early August to early October.
[Illustration: PLUM.]
[Illustration: PLUM.]
PLUMS.—Almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are agreeable and refreshing: it is not a nourishing fruit, and if indulged in to excess, when unripe, is almost certain to cause diarrhoea and cholera. Weak and delicate persons had better abstain from plums altogether. The modes of preparing plums are as numerous as the varieties of the fruit. The objections raised against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit, which even the invalid may eat in moderation.
PLUMS.—Almost all the types of cultivated plums are pleasant and refreshing: they aren't a filling fruit, and overindulging in them when they're unripe can definitely lead to diarrhea and cholera. People who are weak or delicate should probably avoid plums entirely. There are countless ways to prepare plums, just like there are different types of the fruit. The concerns about eating raw plums don’t apply to cooked plums, which even those who are unwell can enjoy in moderation.
PLUM TART.
1331. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 1-1/2 pint of plums, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.
1331. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, 1-1/2 pints of plums, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar.
[Illustration: PLUM TART.]
[Illustration: Plum Tart.]
Mode.—Line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipe No. 1211; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar, upside down, in the midst of them. Put in the sugar, cover the pie with crust, ornament the edges, and bake in a good oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. When puff-crust is preferred to short crust, use that made by recipe No. 1206, and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth with a knife; sprinkle over a little sifted sugar, and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze.
Mode.—Line the edges of a deep tart dish with crust made using recipe No. 1211; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar upside down in the middle of them. Add the sugar, cover the pie with crust, decorate the edges, and bake in a hot oven for 30 to 45 minutes. If you prefer puff pastry instead of short crust, use the one made with recipe No. 1206, and glaze the top by brushing it with the beaten egg white until frothy; sprinkle a little sifted sugar on top, and place the pie in the oven to set the glaze.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Suitable for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of August to the beginning of October.
In season, with different types of plums, from early August to early October.
POTATO PASTY.
1332. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of rump-steak or mutton cutlets, pepper and salt to taste, 1/3 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. of butter, mashed potatoes.
1332. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 lbs. of rump steak or lamb chops, pepper and salt to taste, 1/3 pint of light broth or gravy, 1 oz. of butter, mashed potatoes.
[Illustration: POTATO-PASTY PAN.]
[Illustration: POTATO-PASTY PAN.]
Mode.—Place the meat, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the pan; season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter broken, into small pieces. Put on the perforated plate, with its valve-pipe screwed on, and fill up the whole space to the top of the tube with nicely-mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk, and finish the surface of them in any ornamental manner. If carefully baked, the potatoes will be covered with a delicate brown crust, retaining all the savoury steam rising from the meat. Send it to table as it comes from the oven, with a napkin folded round it.
Method.—Put the meat, cut into small pieces, at the bottom of the pan; season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter broken into small pieces. Place the perforated plate on top, with its valve-pipe screwed on, and fill the entire space up to the top of the tube with nicely mashed potatoes mixed with a little milk, then finish the surface decoratively. If baked carefully, the potatoes will develop a delicate brown crust, keeping all the savory steam from the meat inside. Serve it straight from the oven, wrapped in a napkin.
Time.—40 to 60 minutes. Average cost, 2s.
Time.—40 to 60 minutes. Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Suitable at any time.
POTATO PUDDING.
1333. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 1/4 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, the juice and rind of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. of sugar.
1333. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 1/4 pint of milk, 3 tablespoons of sherry, 1/4 saltspoon of salt, the juice and zest of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. of sugar.
Mode.—Boil sufficient potatoes to make 1/2 lb. when mashed; add to these the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; mince the lemon-peel very finely, and beat all the ingredients well together. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more than 1/2 hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded almonds, and increase the quantity of eggs and butter.
Method.—Boil enough potatoes to get 1/2 lb. when mashed; then mix in the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon juice, and sugar. Mince the lemon peel very finely and blend all the ingredients together well. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie dish and bake for a little over 1/2 hour. To make it richer, add some crushed almonds and increase the amount of eggs and butter.
Time.—1/2 hour, or rather longer. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—30 minutes, or a bit longer. Average cost, 8p.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
TO ICE OR GLAZE PASTRY.
1334. To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted for meat or raised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and beat the former for a short time. Then, when the pastry is nearly baked, take it out of the oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of egg, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze.
1334. To glaze pastry, which is the typical method used for meat or raised pies, crack an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and beat the yolk for a little while. Then, when the pastry is almost baked, take it out of the oven, brush it with the beaten yolk, and return it to the oven to set the glaze.
1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts and sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and with the blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put it back into the oven to set the glaze, and, in a few minutes, it will be done. Great care should be taken that the paste does not catch or burn in the oven, which it is very liable to do after the icing is laid on.
1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method for fruit tarts and sweet pastries, put the egg white on a plate and whip it to a stiff froth with a knife. When the pastry is almost baked, brush it with this mixture and sprinkle some powdered sugar on top; then put it back in the oven to set the glaze, and in a few minutes, it will be ready. Be very careful that the pastry doesn't stick or burn in the oven, as it tends to do once the icing is applied.
Sufficient—Allow 1 egg and 1-1/8 oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts.
Sufficient—Use 1 egg and 1-1/8 oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts.
[Illustration: SUGAR CANES.]
[Illustration: SUGAR CANES.]
SUGAR has been happily called "the honey of reeds." The sugar-cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies. The Chinese have cultivated it for 2,000 years. The Egyptians, Phoenicians, and Jews knew nothing about it. The Greek physicians are the first who speak of it. It was not till the year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of purifying brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense fortune by this discovery. Our supplies are now obtained from Barbadoes, Jamaica, Mauritius, Ceylon, the East and West Indies generally, and the United States; but the largest supplies come from Cuba. Sugar is divided into the following classes:—Refined sugar, white clayed, brown clayed, brown raw, and molasses. The sugarcane grows to the height of six, twelve, or even sometimes twenty feet. It is propagated from cuttings, requires much hoeing and weeding, giving employment to thousands upon thousands of slaves in the slave countries, and attains maturity in twelve or thirteen months. When ripe, it is cut down close to the stole, the stems are divided into lengths of about three feet, which are made up into bundles, and carried to the mill, to be crushed between rollers. In the process of crushing, the juice runs down into a reservoir, from which, after a while, it is drawn through a siphon; that is to say, the clear fluid is taken from the scum. This fluid undergoes several processes of drying and refining; the methods varying in different manufactories. There are some large establishments engaged in sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of Blackwall and Bethnal Green, London. The process is mostly in the hands of German workmen. Sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust. Pure sugar is highly nutritious, adding to the fatty tissue of the body; but it is not easy of digestion.
SUGAR has been joyfully referred to as "the honey of reeds." The sugarcane is thought to have originally come from the East Indies. The Chinese have been growing it for 2,000 years. The Egyptians, Phoenicians, and Jews didn’t know about it. It was the Greek physicians who first mentioned it. It wasn't until 1471 that a Venetian discovered how to purify brown sugar and make loaf sugar. He made a fortune from this discovery. Today, we get our supplies from Barbados, Jamaica, Mauritius, Ceylon, the East and West Indies in general, and the United States; however, the largest amounts come from Cuba. Sugar is categorized into several types: refined sugar, white clayed, brown clayed, brown raw, and molasses. Sugarcane can grow to be six, twelve, or sometimes even twenty feet tall. It is propagated from cuttings and requires a lot of hoeing and weeding, providing work for thousands of slaves in slave-dependent regions. It reaches maturity in twelve or thirteen months. When it's ripe, it's cut down close to the base, and the stems are chopped into lengths of about three feet, bundled, and taken to the mill to be crushed between rollers. During the crushing process, the juice flows into a reservoir, where it is later siphoned off; this means that the clear liquid is separated from the scum. This liquid goes through several drying and refining stages, with methods varying by factory. There are several large sugar-refining operations near Blackwall and Bethnal Green, London. The process is largely handled by German workers. Sugar is often mixed with fine sand and sawdust. Pure sugar is very nutritious and contributes to the body's fatty tissue; however, it is not easily digested.
BAKED RAISIN PUDDING.
(Plain and Economical.)
(Basic and Affordable.)
1336. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. of suet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk.
1336. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of pitted raisins, 1/2 lb. of suet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk.
Mode.—Chop the suet finely; stone the raisins and cut them in halves; mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and moisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the consistency of thick batter. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer. Turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over, and serve. This is a very plain recipe, and suitable where there is a family of children. It, of course, can be much improved by the addition of candied peel, currants, and rather a larger proportion of suet: a few eggs would also make the pudding richer.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet; pit the raisins and cut them in half; mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, then add enough milk to achieve a thick batter consistency. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie dish and bake for 1.5 hours, or a bit longer. Once done, turn it out of the dish, dust with sifted sugar, and serve. This is a very simple recipe, ideal for a family with kids. It can definitely be enhanced by adding candied peel, currants, and a bit more suet; a few eggs would also make the pudding richer.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Duration: 1.5 hours. Average cost: 9d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Appropriate in winter.
INTRODUCTION OF SUGAR.—Sugar was first known as a drug, and used by the apothecaries, and with them was a most important article. At its first appearance, some said it was heating; others, that it injured the chest; others, that it disposed persons to apoplexy; the truth, however, soon conquered these fancies, and the use of sugar has increased every day, and there is no household in the civilized world which can do without it.
INTRODUCTION OF SUGAR.—Sugar was initially regarded as a medicine and was a crucial product for apothecaries. When it first came on the scene, some claimed it caused overheating, others said it harmed the chest, and some believed it made people prone to strokes. However, the reality eventually overcame these misconceptions, and the consumption of sugar has grown daily, to the point where no household in the civilized world can be without it.
BOILED RAISIN PUDDING.
(Plain and Economical.)
(Simple and Affordable.)
1337. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of stoned raisins, 1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, milk.
1337. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of pitted raisins, 1/2 lb. of chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, milk.
Mode.—After having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely, mix them with the flour, add the salt, and when these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to make it into rather a stiff paste. Tie it up in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for 4 hours: serve with sifted sugar. This pudding may, also, be made in a long shape, the same as a rolled jam-pudding, and will then not require so long boiling;—2-1/2 hours would then be quite sufficient.
Mode.—After you've pitted the raisins and finely chopped the suet, mix them with the flour, add the salt, and once those dry ingredients are well combined, moisten the mixture with enough milk to form a fairly stiff paste. Wrap it up in a floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and boil for 4 hours. Serve with sifted sugar. This pudding can also be shaped like a rolled jam pudding, which requires less boiling time—2-1/2 hours would be plenty.
Time.—Made round, 4 hours; in a long shape, 2-1/2 hours.
Time.—If round, 4 hours; if long, 2.5 hours.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable in winter.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 people. Appropriate in winter.
BOILED RHUBARB PUDDING.
1338. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet-crust No. 1215.
1338. INGREDIENTS.—4 or 5 sticks of fresh rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 3/4 lb. of suet crust No. 1215.
Mode.—Make a suet-crust with 3/4 lb. of flour, by recipe No. 1215, and line a buttered basin with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, and, if old, string it—that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Cut it into inch lengths, fill the basin with it, put in the sugar, and cover with crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie over it a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it out of the basin, and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar.
Mode.—Make a suet crust with 3/4 lb. of flour, following recipe No. 1215, and line a buttered bowl with it. Wash and dry the rhubarb, and if it's old, remove the string—this means peeling off the outer skin. Cut it into 1-inch pieces, fill the bowl with it, add the sugar, and cover with the crust. Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tie a floured cloth over it, place it in boiling water, and boil for 2 to 2-1/2 hours. Turn it out of the bowl and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar.
Time.—2 to 2-1/2 hours. Average cost, 7d.
Time.—2 to 2.5 hours. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in spring.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 people. Seasonable in spring.
RHUBARB TART.
1339. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, about 5 sticks of large rhubarb, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar.
1339. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of puff pastry No. 1206, about 5 large rhubarb stalks, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar.
Mode.—Make a puff-crust by recipe No. 1206; line the edges of a deep pie-dish with it, and wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into pieces about 1 inch long. Should it be old and tough, string it, that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it shrinks very much in the cooking; put in the sugar, cover with crust, ornament the edges, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. If wanted very nice, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar, and put it in the oven just to set the glaze: this should be done when the tart is nearly baked. A small quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of the peel minced, are by many persons considered an improvement to the flavour of rhubarb tart.
Mode.—Make a puff pastry using recipe No. 1206; line the edges of a deep pie dish with it, and wash, dry, and cut the rhubarb into pieces about 1 inch long. If it’s old and tough, peel off the outer skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it shrinks significantly while cooking; add the sugar, cover with pastry, decorate the edges, and bake the tart in a preheated oven for 30 to 45 minutes. For a nicer finish, brush it with beaten egg white until it’s frothy, then sprinkle some sifted sugar on top, and put it back in the oven just to set the glaze: this should be done when the tart is nearly baked. A small amount of lemon juice and a little minced peel are considered by many to enhance the flavor of rhubarb tart.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Time — 30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in spring.
Seasonal in spring.
[Illustration: RHUBARB.]
[Illustration: RHUBARB.]
RHUBARB.—This is one of the most useful of all garden productions that are put into pies and puddings. It was comparatively little known till within the last twenty or thirty years, but it is now cultivated in almost every British garden. The part used is the footstalks of the leaves, which, peeled and cut into small pieces, are put into tarts, either mixed with apples or alone. When quite young, they are much better not peeled. Rhubarb comes in season when apples are going out. The common rhubarb is a native of Asia; the scarlet variety has the finest flavour. Turkey rhubarb, the well-known medicinal drug, is the root of a very elegant plant (Rheum palmatum), coming to greatest perfection in Tartary. For culinary purposes, all kinds of rhubarb are the better for being blanched.
RHUBARB.—This is one of the most useful garden crops that are used in pies and puddings. It was relatively unknown until about twenty or thirty years ago, but now it's grown in almost every British garden. The part used is the stalks of the leaves, which, when peeled and cut into small pieces, are added to tarts, either mixed with apples or on their own. When they are very young, it's better not to peel them. Rhubarb is in season as apples are finishing. The common rhubarb is native to Asia; the scarlet variety has the best flavor. Turkey rhubarb, the well-known medicinal herb, comes from a very elegant plant (Rheum palmatum) that reaches its best quality in Tartary. For cooking, all types of rhubarb benefit from being blanched.
RAISED PIE OF POULTRY OR GAME.
1340. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt (these are for the crust); 1 large fowl or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, a few slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, seasoning of nutmeg, allspice, pepper and salt, gravy.
1340. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use ½ pound of butter, ½ pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, and ½ teaspoon of salt (these are for the crust); 1 large chicken or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet, a few slices of cooked ham, forcemeat, a seasoning of nutmeg, allspice, pepper, and salt, and gravy.
[Illustration: RAISED PIE.]
[Illustration: RAISED PIE.]
Mode.—Make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of butter, flour, water, and eggs, and work it up very smoothly; butter a raised-pie mould, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the paste. Previously to making the crust, bone the fowl, or whatever bird is intended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and season the inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; then spread over it a layer of forcemeat, then a layer of seasoned veal, and then one of ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, and roll the fowl over, making the skin meet at the back. Line the pie with forcemeat, put in the fowl, and fill up the cavities with slices of seasoned veal and ham and forcemeat; wet the edges of the pie, put on the cover, pinch the edges together with the paste-pincers, and decorate it with leaves; brush it over with beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. In the mean time, make a good strong gravy from the bones, pour it through a funnel into the hole at the top; cover this hole with a small leaf, and the pie, when cold, will be ready for use. Let it be remembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced before it is poured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a firm jelly, and not be the least degree in a liquid state. This recipe is suitable for all kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds, according to the size of the pie intended to be made; but the birds must always be boned. Truffles, mushrooms, &c., added to this pie, make it much nicer; and, to enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin strips of bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mould is generally called a timbale, and has the advantage of being more easily made than one where the paste is raised by the hands; the crust, besides, being eatable. (See coloured plate N 1.) Time.—Large pie, 4 hours. Average cost, 6s. 6d.
Method.—Make a stiff short crust with the same amount of butter, flour, water, and eggs, and work it until it's very smooth; butter a raised-pie mold, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the pastry. Before making the crust, bone the fowl or whatever bird you plan to use, lay it breast side down on a cloth, and season the inside well with ground mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; then spread a layer of forcemeat over it, followed by a layer of seasoned veal, then a layer of ham, and another layer of forcemeat, then roll the fowl over so that the skin meets at the back. Line the pie with forcemeat, place the fowl inside, and fill the cavities with slices of seasoned veal, ham, and forcemeat; wet the edges of the pie, place the cover on, pinch the edges together with pastry pincers, and decorate it with leaves; brush it with beaten egg yolk and bake in a moderate oven for 4 hours. In the meantime, make a strong gravy from the bones, pour it through a funnel into the hole at the top; cover this hole with a small leaf, and the pie will be ready for use once it’s cool. Remember that the gravy must be significantly reduced before pouring it into the pie, as it should form a firm jelly when cold and not be liquid at all. This recipe works for all kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds depending on the size of the pie you want to make; but the birds must always be boned. Adding truffles, mushrooms, etc., makes this pie much better; and to enhance it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game with thin strips of bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mold is generally called a timbale and is easier to make than one where the paste is raised by hand; plus, the crust is edible. (See colored plate N 1.) Time.—Large pie, 4 hours. Average cost, 6s. 6d.
Seasonable, with poultry, all the year; with game, from September to March.
Available, with poultry, all year round; with game, from September to March.
RAISED PIE OF VEAL AND HAM.
1341. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, a few slices of bacon or ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat No. 415, 2 lbs. of hot-water paste No. 1217, 1/2 pint of good strong gravy.
1341. INGREDIENTS.—3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, a few slices of bacon or ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat No. 415, 2 lbs. of hot-water paste No. 1217, 1/2 pint of good strong gravy.
Mode.—To raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very difficult task, and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced cooks. The process should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt, and plenty of practice given to the making of raised pies, as by that means only will success be insured. Make a hot-water paste by recipe No. 1217, and from the mass raise the pie with the hands; if this cannot be accomplished, cut out pieces for the top and bottom, and a long piece for the sides; fasten the bottom and side-piece together by means of egg, and pinch the edges well together; then line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe No. 415, put in a layer of veal, and a plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice, as, let it be remembered, these pies taste very insipid unless highly seasoned. Over the seasoning place a layer of sliced bacon or cooked ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, veal seasoning, and bacon, and so on until the meat rises to about an inch above the paste; taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat, to fill all the cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat firmly and compactly. Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on the cover, press the edges, and pinch them round with paste-pincers. Make a hole in the middle of the lid, and ornament the pie with leaves, which should be stuck on with the white of an egg; then brush it all over with the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake the pie in an oven with a soaking heat from 3 to 4 hours. To ascertain when it is done, run a sharp-pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the middle of the pie, and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficiently baked. Have ready about 1/2 pint of very strong gravy, pour it through a funnel into the hole at the top, stop up the hole with a small leaf of baked paste, and put the pie away until wanted for use. Should it acquire too much colour in the baking, cover it with white paper, as the crust should not in the least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, truffles, and many other ingredients, may be added to enrich the flavour of these pies, and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded. These pies are more frequently served cold than hot, and form excellent dishes for cold suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the pie is sometimes carefully removed, leaving the perfect edges, and the top decorated with square pieces of very bright aspic jelly: this has an exceedingly pretty effect.
Mode.—Using your hands to shape the crust for a pie is quite tricky and can only be mastered by skilled and experienced cooks. It's important to practice making raised pies to ensure your success. Start by making a hot-water paste using recipe No. 1217, then shape the pie with your hands. If that doesn't work, cut out pieces for the top and bottom along with a long strip for the sides. Attach the bottom and side pieces using egg, pinching the edges together well. Next, line the pie with forcemeat from recipe No. 415, add a layer of veal, and season generously with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice—these pies can taste bland if not well-seasoned. On top of the seasoning, place a layer of sliced bacon or cooked ham, followed by another layer of forcemeat, veal, seasoning, and bacon, repeating until the meat is about an inch above the paste. Be sure to finish with a layer of forcemeat to fill any gaps, packing the meat tightly. Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, place the cover on, press the edges, and crimp them with paste pincers. Create a hole in the center of the lid and decorate the pie with leaves attached using egg white; then brush the entire pie with beaten egg yolk and bake it in an oven with a strong heat for 3 to 4 hours. To check if it's done, insert a sharp knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the pie's center; if the meat feels tender, it's baked enough. Prepare about 1/2 pint of strong gravy to pour through a funnel into the hole, seal the hole with a small piece of baked paste, and set the pie aside until you're ready to serve it. If the pie browns too much while baking, cover it with white paper, as the crust shouldn't get burnt at all. You can also add mushrooms, truffles, and other ingredients to enhance the flavor of these pies, and the juicier parts of the meat can be larded. These pies are usually served cold rather than hot and make excellent dishes for cold suppers or breakfasts. Sometimes the pie's cover is carefully removed, leaving the edges intact, and the top is decorated with small squares of bright aspic jelly for a lovely effect.
Time.—About 4 hours. Average cost, 6s. 6d.
Duration.—About 4 hours. Average cost, £6.30.
Sufficient for a very large pie. Seasonable from March to October.
Sufficient for a really big pie. Available from March to October.
BAKED RICE PUDDING.
I.
1342. INGREDIENTS.—1 small teacupful of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 2 oz. of beef marrow, 1/4 lb. of currants, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon.
1342. INGREDIENTS.—1 small teacup of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 2 oz. of beef marrow, 1/4 lb. of currants, 2 tablespoons of brandy, nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of sugar, the zest of 1/2 lemon.
Mode.—Put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan, and let it infuse till the milk is well flavoured with the lemon; in the mean time, boil the rice until tender in water, with a very small quantity of salt, and, when done, let it be thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs, stir to them the milk, which should be strained, the butter, marrow, currants, and remaining ingredients; add the rice, and mix all well together. Line the edges of the dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake for about 3/4 hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel may be added at pleasure, or Sultana raisins may be substituted for the currants.
Mode.—Place the lemon zest and milk in a saucepan and let it steep until the milk is nicely flavored with the lemon; meanwhile, cook the rice in salted water until it's tender, then drain it thoroughly. Beat the eggs, then stir in the strained milk, along with the butter, marrow, currants, and any remaining ingredients; mix in the rice and combine everything well. Line the edges of the dish with puff pastry, pour in the pudding mixture, and bake for about 45 minutes in a low oven. You can add candied peel if you like, or substitute Sultana raisins for the currants.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Duration.—45 minutes. Average cost, £1.15.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Suitable for a winter pudding, when fresh fruits are not obtainable.
Seasonable.—Perfect for a winter pudding when fresh fruits aren't available.
RICE, with proper management in cooking it, forms a very valuable and cheap addition to our farinaceous food, and, in years of scarcity, has been found eminently useful in lessening the consumption of flour. When boiled, it should be so managed that the grains, though soft, should be as little broken and as dry as possible. The water in which it is dressed should only simmer, and not boil hard. Very little water should be used, as the grains absorb a great deal, and, consequently, swell much; and if they take up too much at first, it is difficult to get rid of it. Baking it in puddings is the best mode of preparing it.
RICE, with proper cooking management, is a very valuable and affordable addition to our starchy foods, and during times of scarcity, it has proven to be extremely helpful in reducing flour consumption. When boiled, it should be prepared so that the grains, while soft, remain mostly intact and as dry as possible. The water used for cooking should only be simmered, not boiled rapidly. Use very little water, as the grains soak up a lot and swell significantly; if they absorb too much water at the start, it's hard to remove it later. Baking it in puddings is the best way to prepare it.
II.
(Plain and Economical; a nice Pudding for Children.)
(Simple and Affordable; a Great Pudding for Kids.)
1343. INGREDIENTS.—1 teacupful of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 oz. of butter or 2 small tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.
1343. INGREDIENTS.—1 cup of rice, 2 tablespoons of brown sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 oz. of butter or 2 small tablespoons of chopped suet, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Wash the rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, pour in the milk, and stir these ingredients well together; then add the butter cut up into very small pieces, or, instead of this, the above proportion of finely-minced suet; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake the pudding, in a moderate oven, from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. As the rice is not previously cooked, care must be taken that the pudding be very slowly baked, to give plenty of time for the rice to swell, and for it to be very thoroughly done.
Method.—Rinse the rice, place it in a pie dish with the sugar, pour in the milk, and mix these ingredients well. Then add the butter cut into tiny pieces, or, as an alternative, the same amount of finely chopped suet. Grate a bit of nutmeg on top, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven for 1.5 to 2 hours. Since the rice isn't pre-cooked, it's important to bake the pudding very slowly to allow enough time for the rice to expand and to ensure it's completely cooked.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours. Average cost, 7d.
Time.—1.5 to 2 hours. Average cost, 7 pence.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 children. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 kids. Good at any time.
PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.
1344. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice.
1344. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. rice.
Mode.—Wash the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, allowing room for the rice to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; boil it gently for 2 hours, and if, after a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely, take the rice up and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted butter, or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade; any of which accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice.
Mode.—Rinse the rice, wrap it in a pudding cloth, leaving space for the rice to expand, and place it in a pot of cold water; simmer it gently for 2 hours, and if at any point the cloth appears too loose, remove the rice and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted butter, or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade; any of these toppings work well with plain boiled rice.
Time.—2 hours after the water boils. Average cost, 2d.
Time.—2 hours after the water boils. Average cost, 2p.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Great at any time.
BOILED RICE PUDDING.
I.
1345. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of new milk, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, flavouring to taste.
1345. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pints of fresh milk, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 4 large tablespoons of brown sugar, flavoring to taste.
Mode.—Stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new milk, and, when it is tender, pour it into a basin; stir in the butter, and let it stand to cool; then beat the eggs, add these to the rice with the sugar, salt, and any flavouring that may be approved, such as nutmeg, powdered cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, essence of bitter almonds, or vanilla. When all is well stirred, put the pudding into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for 1-1/4 hour.
Method.—Gently simmer the rice in the specified amount of fresh milk, and once it's tender, transfer it to a bowl; mix in the butter and let it cool. Next, beat the eggs and combine them with the rice along with the sugar, salt, and any desired flavoring, such as nutmeg, ground cinnamon, grated lemon peel, almond extract, or vanilla. Once everything is well mixed, place the pudding into a buttered bowl, cover it with a cloth, immerse it in boiling water, and cook for 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Time.—1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Duration: 1.25 hours. Average cost: 1s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
VARIETIES OF RICE.—Of the varieties of rice brought to our market, that from Bengal is chiefly of the species denominated cargo rice, and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast, but peculiarly sweet and large-grained; it does not readily separate from the husk, but it is preferred by the natives to all the others. Patua rice is more esteemed in Europe, and is of very superior qualify; it is small-grained, rather long and wiry, and is remarkably white. The Carolina rice is considered as the best, and is likewise the dearest in London.
VARIETIES OF RICE.—Among the rice varieties available in our market, the one from Bengal is mainly of the cargo type, which has a coarse reddish-brown color but is notably sweet and large-grained; it doesn’t separate easily from the husk, yet the locals prefer it over all others. The Patua rice is more valued in Europe and is of much higher quality; it is small-grained, somewhat long and thin, and is exceptionally white. The Carolina rice is regarded as the best and is also the most expensive in London.
II.
(With Dried or Fresh fruit; a nice dish for the Nursery.)
(With dried or fresh fruit; a great dish for the nursery.)
1346. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice, 1 pint of any kind of fresh fruit that may be preferred, or 1/2 lb. of raisins or currants.
1346. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice, 1 pint of any fresh fruit you prefer, or 1/2 lb. of raisins or currants.
Mode.—Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, allowing room for it to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water; let it boil for an hour, then take it up, untie the cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it up again tolerably tight, and put it into the water for the remainder of the time. Boil for another hour, or rather longer, and serve with sweet sauce, if made with dried fruit, and with plain sifted sugar and a little cream or milk, if made with fresh fruit.
Mode.—Rinse the rice, wrap it in a cloth, leaving enough space for it to expand, and place it in a pot of cold water; bring it to a boil for an hour, then remove it, untie the cloth, mix in the fruit, and tie it back up fairly tightly, then return it to the water for the rest of the cooking time. Boil for another hour, or a bit longer, and serve with sweet sauce if using dried fruit, or with plain sifted sugar and a little cream or milk if using fresh fruit.
Time.—1 hour to boil the rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or longer, afterwards.
Time.—1 hour to cook the rice without the fruit; 1 hour, or more, afterwards.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6p.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 children. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 kids. Good at any time.
Note.—This pudding is very good made with apples: they should be pared cored, and cut into thin slices.
Note.—This pudding is great made with apples: they should be peeled, cored, and cut into thin slices.
BOILED RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.
Rice for curries, etc.
1347. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of rice, water, salt.
1347. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of rice, water, salt.
Mode.—Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water; then have ready a saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice into it, and keep it boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until it is tender, but not soft. Take it up, drain it, and put it on a dish before the fire to dry: do not handle it much with a spoon, but shake it about a little with two forks, that it may all be equally dried, and strew over a little salt. It is now ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly on a dish by itself, or be laid round the dish as a border, with a curry or fricassee in the centre. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and then brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and set it in the oven to colour; but the rice well boiled, white, dry, and with every grain distinct, is by far the more preferable mode of dressing it. During the process of boiling, the rice should be attentively watched, that it be not overdone, as, if this is the case, it will have a mashed and soft appearance.
Method.—Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water. Next, prepare a saucepan of boiling water, add the rice, and keep it boiling quickly with the lid off until it's tender but not mushy. Once done, drain the rice and transfer it to a dish in front of the fire to dry. Try not to handle it too much with a spoon; instead, gently shake it with two forks to ensure it dries evenly, and sprinkle a little salt on top. It's now ready to serve and can be piled lightly on a dish by itself or arranged around the edge of a dish with a curry or fricassee in the center. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, brush it with egg yolk, and put it in the oven to brown. However, well-boiled, white, dry rice with each grain separate is definitely the preferred way to prepare it. During boiling, keep a close eye on the rice to avoid overcooking it, as overcooked rice will end up looking mashed and soft.
Time.—15 to 25 minutes, according to the quality of the rice.
Time.—15 to 25 minutes, depending on the quality of the rice.
Average cost, 3d.
Average cost, $0.03.
Sufficient for a large dish of curry.
Sufficient for a big bowl of curry.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
RICE, in the native rough state, with the husk on, is called paddy, both in India and America, and it will keep better, and for a much longer time, in this state, than after the husk has been removed; besides which, prepared rice is apt to become dirty from rubbing about in the voyage on board ship, and in the warehouses. It is sometimes brought to England in the shape of paddy, and the husk detached here. Paddy pays less duty than shelled rice.
RICE, in its natural, unprocessed form with the husk still on, is called paddy, both in India and America. It lasts longer and stays fresh better in this state than after the husk has been removed. Additionally, processed rice can get dirty from being moved around during shipping and while stored in warehouses. Sometimes, it's shipped to England as paddy, and the husk is removed there. Paddy is taxed less than shelled rice.
TO BOIL RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.
TO BOIL RICE FOR CURRIES, &c.
(Soyer's Recipe.)
(Soyer's Recipe.)
1348. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of the best Carolina rice, 2 quarts of water, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, a little salt.
1348. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of the finest Carolina rice, 2 quarts of water, 1.5 oz. of butter, a pinch of salt.
Mode.—Wash the rice well in two waters; make 2 quarts of water boiling, and throw the rice into it; boil it until three-parts done, then drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan, put in the rice, place the lid on tightly, and set it by the side of the fire until the rice is perfectly tender, occasionally shaking the pan to prevent its sticking. Prepared thus, every grain should be separate and white. Either dish it separately, or place it round the curry as a border.
Mode.—Rinse the rice well in two changes of water; bring 2 quarts of water to a boil and add the rice. Cook it until it's about three-quarters done, then drain it using a sieve. Grease the bottom and sides of a saucepan with butter, add the rice, cover it tightly with a lid, and set it next to the fire until the rice is fully tender, shaking the pan occasionally to avoid sticking. When prepared this way, each grain should be separate and white. You can either serve it on its own or place it around the curry as a border.
Time.—15 to 25 minutes.
Time.—15 to 25 mins.
Average cost, 7d.
Average cost, 7 days.
Sufficient for 2 moderate-sized curries.
Enough for 2 medium curries.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
BUTTERED RICE.
1349. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon.
1349. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or ground cinnamon.
Mode.—Wash and pick the rice, drain and put it into a saucepan with the milk; let it swell gradually, and, when tender, pour off the milk; stir in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, when the butter is thoroughly melted, and the whole is quite hot, serve. After the milk is poured off, be particular that the rice does not burn: to prevent this, do not cease stirring it.
Method.—Wash and sort the rice, then drain it and place it in a saucepan with the milk; let it absorb the milk gradually, and when it's soft, pour off the milk; mix in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and when the butter is completely melted and everything is hot, serve. After pouring off the milk, make sure the rice doesn’t burn: to avoid this, keep stirring it consistently.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to swell the rice.
Time.—About 45 minutes to soak the rice.
Average cost, 7d.
Average cost, 7 days.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
RICE was held in great esteem by the ancients: they considered it as a very beneficial food for the chest; therefore it was recommended in cases of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood.
RICE was highly regarded by ancient people: they saw it as a very healthy food for the lungs; so it was advised for those suffering from tuberculosis and for individuals prone to coughing up blood.
SAVOURY CASSEROLE OF RICE.
Or Rice Border, for Ragouts, Fricassees, &c. (an Entree).
Or Rice Border, for Stews, Fricassees, etc. (an Entree).
1350. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of weak stock or broth, 2 slices of fat ham, 1 teaspoonful of salt.
1350. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 lbs. of rice, 3 pints of light stock or broth, 2 slices of fatty ham, 1 teaspoon of salt.
[Illustration: CASSEROLE OF RICE.]
[Illustration: RICE CASSEROLE.]
Mode.—A casserole of rice, when made in a mould, is not such a difficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand. It is an elegant and inexpensive entrée, as the remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl may be served as ragoûts, fricassees, &c., inclosed in the casserole. It requires great nicety in its preparation, the principal thing to attend to being the boiling of the rice, as, if this is not sufficiently cooked, the casserole, when moulded, will have a rough appearance, which would entirely spoil it. After having washed the rice in two or three waters, drain it well, and put it into a stewpan with the stock, ham, and salt; cover the pan closely, and let the rice gradually swell over a slow fire, occasionally stirring, to prevent its sticking. When it is quite soft, strain it, pick out the pieces of ham, and, with the back of a large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a perfectly smooth paste. Then well grease a mould (moulds are made purposely for rice borders), and turn it upside down for a minute or two, to drain away the fat, should there be too much; put some rice all round the bottom and sides of it; place a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice; press it in equally with the spoon, and let it cool. Then dip the mould into hot water, turn the casserole carefully on to a dish, mark where the lid is to be formed on the top, by making an incision with the point of a knife about an inch from the edge all round, and put it into a very hot oven. Brush it over with a little clarified butter, and bake about 1/2 hour, or rather longer; then carefully remove the lid, which will be formed by the incision having been made all round, and remove the bread, in small pieces, with the point of a penknife, being careful not to injure the casserole. Fill the centre with the ragoût or fricassee, which should be made thick; put on the cover, glaze it, place it in the oven to set the glaze, and serve as hot as possible. The casserole should not be emptied too much, as it is liable to crack from the weight of whatever is put in; and in baking it, let the oven be very hot, or the casserole will probably break.
Mode.—Making a rice casserole in a mold is easier than molding it by hand. It’s a classy and budget-friendly dish since you can use leftover cold fish, meat, or poultry as ragoûts, fricassees, etc., inside the casserole. It requires careful preparation, especially with the rice; if it’s not cooked enough, the casserole will look rough, which ruins it. After rinsing the rice two or three times, drain it well and place it in a saucepan with the stock, ham, and salt. Cover the pan tightly and let the rice cook slowly over low heat, stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking. Once it’s soft, strain it, remove the pieces of ham, and use the back of a large wooden spoon to mash the rice into a smooth paste. Then, greasing the mold well (molds specifically designed for rice borders are best), turn it upside down for a minute or two to let excess fat drain. Line the bottom and sides of the mold with some rice, place a piece of soft bread in the center, and cover it with more rice, pressing it in evenly with the spoon. Let it cool. Dip the mold in hot water, carefully invert the casserole onto a dish, mark where the lid will go on top by making a shallow incision with a knife about an inch from the edge all around, and place it in a very hot oven. Brush it with a little clarified butter and bake for about half an hour, or slightly longer. Then, gently lift off the lid formed by the incision, and carefully remove the bread in small pieces using a penknife, being cautious not to damage the casserole. Fill the center with thick ragoût or fricassee, cover it, glaze it, and return it to the oven to set the glaze, serving it as hot as possible. Be careful not to overfill the casserole, as it can crack under the weight of the filling; also, ensure the oven is very hot when baking, or the casserole may break.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to swell the rice.
Time.—About 45 minutes to soak the rice.
Sufficient for 2 moderate-sized casseroles.
Enough for 2 medium casseroles.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE (an Entremets).
Sweet Rice Casserole (Dessert).
1351. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste, flavouring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs.
1351. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lb. of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste, flavoring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs.
Mode.—This is made in precisely the same manner as a savoury casserole, only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt. Put the milk into a stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter almonds to flavour it well; then add the rice, which should be washed, picked, and drained, and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire. When it is tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and yolks of eggs; butter a mould, press in the rice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as in recipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compôte of any fruit that may be preferred, or with melted apricot-jam, and serve.
Mode.—This is made in exactly the same way as a savory casserole, but you replace the stock and salt with milk and sugar. Pour the milk into a saucepan, adding enough essence of bitter almonds to give it a good flavor; then add the rice, which should be washed, sorted, and drained, and let it gradually swell in the milk over a low heat. Once it's tender, mix in the sugar, butter, and egg yolks; butter a mold, press in the rice, and follow the same steps as in recipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compote of your preferred fruit or with melted apricot jam, and serve.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice, 1/2 to 3/4 hour to bake the casserole.
Time.—From 45 minutes to 1 hour to soak the rice, 30 to 45 minutes to bake the casserole.
Average cost, exclusive of the compôte or jam, 1s. 9d.
Average cost, excluding the compôte or jam, 1s. 9d.
Sufficient for 2 casseroles.
Enough for 2 casseroles.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ.
FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ.
1352. INGREDIENTS.—To every 1/4 lb. of rice allow 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. of butter, 6 eggs, bread crumbs.
1352. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/4 lb. of rice, use 1 quart of milk, the peel of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. of butter, 6 eggs, and bread crumbs.
Mode.—Put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour, or until the former is well flavoured; then take out the peel; have ready the rice washed, picked, and drained; put it into the milk, and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire. Stir in the butter, salt, and sugar, and when properly sweetened, add the yolks of the eggs, and then the whites, both of which should be well beaten, and added separately to the rice. Butter a mould, strew in some fine bread crumbs, and let them be spread equally over it; then carefully pour in the rice, and bake the pudding in a slow oven for 1 hour. Turn it out of the mould, and garnish the dish with preserved cherries, or any bright-coloured jelly or jam. This pudding would be exceedingly nice, flavoured with essence of vanilla.
Method.—Pour the milk into a saucepan with the lemon zest, and let it steep for 30 minutes, or until the milk is well flavored; then remove the peel. Have the rice washed, sorted, and drained; add it to the milk and let it simmer gently over low heat. Stir in the butter, salt, and sugar, and when it’s sweetened to your liking, mix in the beaten egg yolks, followed by the whipped egg whites, both added separately to the rice. Grease a mold, sprinkle in some fine breadcrumbs, ensuring they're evenly spread; then carefully pour in the rice mixture and bake the pudding in a slow oven for 1 hour. Turn it out of the mold and decorate the dish with preserved cherries or any brightly colored jelly or jam. This pudding would be really nice with vanilla essence for flavor.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour for the rice to swell; to be baked 1 hour in a slow oven.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes for the rice to expand; bake for 1 hour in a low oven.
Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Average cost, £0.08.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
BAKED OR BOILED GROUND RICE PUDDING.
1353. INGREDIENTS.—2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, bitter almonds or bay-leaf.
1353. INGREDIENTS.—2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoons of ground rice, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavoring of lemon peel, nutmeg, bitter almonds, or bay leaf.
Mode.—Put 1-1/2 pint of the milk into a stewpan, with any of the above flavourings, and bring it to the boiling-point, and, with the other 1/2 pint of milk, mix the ground rice to a smooth batter; strain the boiling milk to this, and stir over the fire until the mixture is tolerably thick; then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, and when nearly or quite cold, sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, which should be previously well beaten, with a little salt. Put the pudding into a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for 1-1/2 hour. For a baked pudding, proceed in precisely the same manner, only using half the above proportion of ground rice, with the same quantity of all the other ingredients: an hour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Stewed fruit, or preserves, or marmalade, may be served with either the boiled or baked pudding, and will be found an improvement.
Mode.—Pour 1-1/2 pints of milk into a saucepan along with any of the flavorings you choose, and bring it to a boil. Meanwhile, mix the remaining 1/2 pint of milk with the ground rice to create a smooth batter; strain the boiling milk into this mixture and stir it over the heat until it thickens nicely. Next, transfer it to a bowl, leave it uncovered, and once it’s nearly or completely cool, sweeten it to your liking and add in the eggs, which should be well beaten with a pinch of salt. Place the pudding into a well-buttered bowl, cover it tightly with a cloth, and immerse it in boiling water, cooking for 1-1/2 hours. For a baked pudding, follow the same steps but use only half the amount of ground rice, keeping the quantities of all other ingredients the same; it should bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Serve stewed fruit, preserves, or marmalade with either the boiled or baked pudding, as they enhance the dish.
Time.—1-1/2 hour to boil, 1 hour to bake. Average cost, 10d.
Time.—1.5 hours to boil, 1 hour to bake. Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
ICED RICE PUDDING.
1354. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 lb. of sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.
1354. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 1/2 lb. of sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoon of vanilla extract.
Mode.—Put the rice into a stewpan, with the milk and sugar, and let these simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft to break up into a smooth mass, and should the milk dry away too much, a little more may be added. Stir the rice occasionally, to prevent its burning, then beat it to a smooth mixture; add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the vanilla (should this flavouring not be liked, essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it); put this rice custard into the freezing-pot, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1290. When wanted for table, turn the pudding out of the mould, and pour over the top, and round it, a compôte of oranges, or any other fruit that may be preferred, taking care that the flavouring in the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is served with it.
Method.—Place the rice in a saucepan along with the milk and sugar, and let them simmer over low heat until the rice is soft enough to break down into a smooth mixture. If the milk reduces too much, you can add a little more. Stir the rice occasionally to prevent it from burning, then mash it to a smooth consistency. Add the well-whisked egg yolks and the vanilla (if you don’t like this flavor, you can substitute it with almond extract); pour this rice custard into the ice cream maker, and follow the instructions in recipe No. 1290. When it's time to serve, carefully unmold the pudding and pour a fruit compote, like oranges or any other preferred fruit, over the top and around it, making sure the flavors in the pudding complement the fruit you choose.
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.; exclusive of the compôte, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.; not including the compôte, 1s. 4d.
Seasonable.—Served all the year round.
In season.—Served all year.
MINIATURE RICE PUDDINGS.
1355. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste; flavouring of lemon-peel, bitter almonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied peel.
1355. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of rice, 1-1/2 pints of milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste; flavoring of lemon peel, bitter almonds, or vanilla; a few strips of candied peel.
Mode.—Let the rice swell in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire, putting with it a strip of lemon-peel; stir to it the butter and the other 1/2 pint of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then add the well-beaten eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence of vanilla, whichever may be preferred; butter well some small cups or moulds, line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very thin, fill them three parts full, and bake for about 40 minutes; turn them out of the cups on to a white d'oyley, and serve with sweet sauce. The flavouring and candied peel might be omitted, and stewed fruit or preserve served instead, with these puddings.
Mode.—Let the rice simmer in 1 pint of milk over low heat, adding a strip of lemon peel; mix in the butter and the other 1/2 pint of milk, then let the mixture cool. Next, stir in the well-beaten eggs and a few drops of almond or vanilla extract, whichever you prefer; thoroughly butter some small cups or molds, line them with a few thin slices of candied peel, fill them three-quarters full, and bake for about 40 minutes; then carefully turn them out onto a white doily and serve with sweet sauce. You can skip the flavoring and candied peel and instead serve these puddings with stewed fruit or preserves.
Time.—40 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Duration.—40 minutes. Average price, 1s.
Sufficient for 6 puddings. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 6 puddings. Usable anytime.
ARROWROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
1356. INGREDIENTS.—2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4 dessert-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1/2 pint of water.
1356. INGREDIENTS.—2 small teaspoons of arrowroot, 4 dessert spoons of powdered sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water; put this into a stewpan; add the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. Stir these ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is ready for use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very much improve the flavour of this sauce: it is usually served with bread, rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich.
Mode.—Mix the arrowroot thoroughly with the water; pour this into a saucepan; add the sugar, strained lemon juice, and grated nutmeg. Stir these ingredients over the heat until they boil, at which point the sauce is ready to use. A little wine, or any liqueur, would greatly enhance the flavor of this sauce: it’s typically served with bread, rice, custard, or any simple dry pudding that isn't too rich.
Time.—Altogether, 15 minutes.
Time.—Total of 15 minutes.
Average cost, 4d.
Average cost, 4p.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
(German Recipe.)
(German Recipe.)
1357. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, a little grated lemon-rind, 4 pounded cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, sugar to taste.
1357. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of water, 1 wine glass of port wine, a little grated lemon peel, 4 crushed cloves, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Stone the cherries, and pound the kernels in a mortar to a smooth paste; put the butter and flour into a saucepan; stir them over the fire until of a pale brown; then add the cherries, the pounded kernels, the wine, and the water. Simmer these gently for 1/4 hour, or until the cherries are quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hair sieve; add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce boil for another 5 minutes, and serve. This is a delicious sauce to serve with boiled batter pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured over the pudding.
Mode.—Remove the pits from the cherries, and grind the kernels in a mortar until they form a smooth paste; combine the butter and flour in a saucepan; cook them over the heat until they turn a light brown; then mix in the cherries, the ground kernels, the wine, and the water. Let it simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the cherries are fully cooked, then strain everything through a fine sieve; add the remaining ingredients, allow the sauce to boil for another 5 minutes, and serve. This sauce pairs wonderfully with boiled batter pudding, and when served this way, it should be poured over the pudding at the table.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 1d.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling 1 penny.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in June, July, and August.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Best in June, July, and August.
LEMON SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
1358. INGREDIENTS.—The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs.
1358. INGREDIENTS.—The peel and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 large glass of sherry, 1 glass of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs.
Mode.—Rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar; squeeze out the juice, and strain it; put the butter and flour into a saucepan, stir them over the fire, and when of a pale brown, add the wine, water, and strained lemon-juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that were rubbed on the lemon; stir these into the sauce, which should be very sweet. When these ingredients are well mixed, and the sugar is melted, put in the beaten yolks of 4 eggs; keep stirring the sauce until it thickens, when serve. Do not, on any account, allow it to boil, or it will curdle, and be entirely spoiled.
Mode.—Rub the peel of the lemon onto some sugar lumps; squeeze out the juice and strain it. In a saucepan, combine the butter and flour, stirring them over the heat until they turn a light brown. Then add the wine, water, and strained lemon juice. Crush the sugar lumps that were rubbed on the lemon and stir them into the sauce, which should be very sweet. Once these ingredients are well mixed and the sugar has melted, add the beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Continue stirring the sauce until it thickens, then serve. Do not let it boil at all, or it will curdle and be ruined.
Time.—Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—In total, 15 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING.
1359. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 small wineglassfuls of brandy.
1359. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon of powdered sugar, 1 gill of milk, a tiny bit of grated lemon peel, 2 small glasses of brandy.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put the former into a stewpan; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind, and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens; but do not allow it to boil. Put in the brandy; let the sauce stand by the side of the fire, to get quite hot; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureen separately, or pour it over the pudding.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs and place the yolks in a saucepan. Add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon peel, and stir over low heat until the mixture thickens, but do not let it boil. Stir in the brandy; let the sauce sit by the fire to heat through, stirring continuously, and serve it in a gravy boat or bowl on the side, or pour it over the pudding.
Time.—Altogether, 10 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—Total, 10 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Fits 6 to 7 people.
SWEET SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
1360. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk, 4 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring; of grated lemon-rind, or nutmeg, or cinnamon.
1360. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter made with milk, 4 heaping teaspoons of powdered sugar, flavoring; of grated lemon zest, or nutmeg, or cinnamon.
Mode.—Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, omitting the salt; stir in the sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted butter, the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, by infusing about half a dozen of them in it for about 1/2 hour; the milk should then be strained before it is added to the other ingredients. This simple sauce may be served for children with rice, batter, or bread pudding.
Method.—Make 1/2 pint of melted butter using recipe No. 380, leaving out the salt; mix in the sugar, add a bit of grated lemon zest, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon, and serve. Before making the melted butter, you can flavor the milk with bitter almonds by infusing about six of them in it for about 30 minutes; then strain the milk before adding it to the other ingredients. This simple sauce can be served to children with rice, batter, or bread pudding.
Time.—Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, 4d.
Duration.—Total, 15 minutes. Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, to serve with Puddings.
VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, for serving with desserts.
1361. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 10 drops of essence of vanilla.
1361. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 cup of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sugar, 10 drops of vanilla extract.
Mode.—Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; stir these ingredients well together, and flavour them with essence of vanilla, regulating the proportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence, the size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture into a small jug, place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce one way until it thickens; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. Serve in a boat or tureen separately, with plum, bread, or any kind of dry pudding. Essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substituted for the vanilla, when they are more in accordance with the flavouring of the pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served.
Mode.—Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk; mix these ingredients together well, and flavor them with vanilla extract, adjusting the amount based on the strength of the extract, the size of the eggs, etc. Pour the mixture into a small jug, place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce one way until it thickens; but avoid letting it boil, or it will curdle immediately. Serve it in a boat or tureen on the side, with plum, bread, or any type of dry pudding. You can use bitter almond extract or lemon zest instead of vanilla when they complement the flavor of the pudding better.
Time.—To be stirred in the jug from 8 to 10 minutes.
Time.—Stir in the jug for 8 to 10 minutes.
Average cost, 4d.
Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
AN EXCELLENT WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
1362. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of sherry or Madeira.
1362. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoon of flour, 2 oz. of powdered sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 1/4 saltspoon of salt, 1/2 pint of sherry or Madeira.
Mode.—Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire until the former thickens; then add the sugar, salt, and wine, and mix these ingredients well together. Separate the yolks from the whites of 4 eggs; beat up the former, and stir them briskly to the sauce; let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of simmering; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings; but should be served separately, and not poured over the pudding.
Mode.—Put the butter and flour in a saucepan and stir them over the heat until the butter thickens. Then add the sugar, salt, and wine, mixing these ingredients well. Separate the yolks from the whites of 4 eggs; beat the yolks and stir them quickly into the sauce. Keep it on the heat until it's just about to simmer, but don’t let it boil, or it will curdle immediately. This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings, but should be served separately and not poured over the pudding.
Time.—From 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter; about 5 minutes to stir the sauce over the fire.
Time.—It takes about 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter; around 5 minutes to stir the sauce over the heat.
Average cost, 1s. 10d.
Average cost, 1s. 10d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
1363. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar; 1 large wineglassful of port or sherry, or 3/4 of a small glassful of brandy.
1363. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heaped teaspoons of powdered sugar; 1 large wineglass of port or sherry, or 3/4 of a small glass of brandy.
Mode.—Make 1/2 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 377, omitting the salt; then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above proportion, and bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Serve in a boat or tureen separately, and, if liked, pour a little of it over the pudding. To convert this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a small wineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon. Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Curaçoa substituted for the brandy, make excellent sauces.
Mode.—Prepare 1/2 pint of melted butter following recipe No. 377, leaving out the salt; then mix in the sugar and wine or spirit in the amounts mentioned above, and bring the sauce to a boil. Serve it in a boat or tureen on the side, and if you prefer, drizzle a little over the pudding. To turn this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a small wineglass of rum along with the juice and grated zest of 1/2 lemon. Using liqueurs like Maraschino or Curaçao instead of the brandy creates excellent sauces.
Time.—Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—Total, 15 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
1364. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of sherry, 1/4 pint of water, the yolks of 6 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, a few pieces of candied citron cut thin.
1364. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of sherry, 1/4 pint of water, the yolks of 6 eggs, 2 oz. of powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of minced lemon zest, a few slices of candied citron, thinly cut.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, and put them into a very clean saucepan (if at hand, a lined one is best); add all the other ingredients, place them over a sharp fire, and keep stirring until the sauce begins to thicken; then take it off and serve. If it is allowed to boil, it will be spoiled, as it will immediately curdle.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs; beat them, and put them into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best if you have it); add all the other ingredients, place the saucepan over a high heat, and keep stirring until the sauce starts to thicken; then remove it from the heat and serve. If it boils, it will be ruined, as it will immediately curdle.
Time.—To be stirred over the fire 3 or 4 minutes; but it must not boil.
Time.—Stir over the heat for 3 or 4 minutes; but it shouldn’t boil.
Average cost, 2s.
Average cost, 2 shillings.
Sufficient for a large pudding; allow half this quantity for a moderate-sized one.
Sufficient for a large pudding; use half this amount for a medium-sized one.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE.
[Illustration: OPEN TART.]
[Illustration: OPEN TART.]
[Illustration: OPEN-TART MOULD.]
[Illustration: OPEN-TART PAN.]
1365. INGREDIENTS.—Trimmings of puff-paste, any kind of jam.
1365. INGREDIENTS.—Leftover puff pastry, any type of jam.
Mode.—Butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving, roll out the paste to the thickness of 1/2 an inch, and line the pan with it; prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in a brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little; then fill it with preserve, place a few stars or leaves on it, which have been previously cut out of the paste and baked, and the tart is ready for table. By making it in this manner, both the flavour and colour of the jam are preserved, which would otherwise be lost, were it baked in the oven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required.
Mode.—Butter a tart pan shaped like the one shown in the image, roll out the dough to about 1/2 an inch thick, and line the pan with it; prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in a hot oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Let the crust cool slightly; then fill it with preserves, placing a few stars or leaves on top that have been cut out from the dough and baked beforehand, and the tart is ready to serve. By preparing it this way, both the flavor and color of the jam are maintained, which would otherwise be lost if baked directly on the dough; plus, you won't need to use as much jam.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient.—1 tart for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient.—1 tart for 3 people. Good at any time.
STRAWBERRY.—The name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived from an ancient custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began to ripen, which is very useful to keep it moist and clean. The strawberry belongs to temperate and rather cold climates; and no fruit of these latitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all comparable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widely diffused, being found in most parts of the world, particularly in Europe and America.
STRAWBERRY.—The name of this popular fruit is believed to come from an old practice of placing straw under the fruit as it started to ripen, which helps keep it moist and clean. Strawberries thrive in temperate and cooler climates, and no other fruit from these regions that ripens without artificial heat comes close to it in flavor. Strawberries are widely spread and can be found in many parts of the world, especially in Europe and America.
QUICKLY-MADE PUDDINGS.
1366. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind.
1366. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a bit of grated lemon peel.
Mode.—Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it cool before the other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour, and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of 2; flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well. Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, according to the size of the puddings, and serve with fruit, custard, or wine sauce, a little of which may be poured over them.
Method.—Heat the milk; mix in the butter and let it cool before adding the other ingredients. Then stir in the sugar, flour, and eggs, making sure to whisk the eggs well and leave out the whites of 2. Add a bit of grated lemon zest for flavor and beat the mixture thoroughly. Grease some small cups and fill them a little more than halfway; bake for 20 minutes to half an hour, depending on the size of the puddings, and serve with fruit, custard, or wine sauce, which can be poured over them.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, £0.06.
Sufficient for 6 puddings. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 6 puddings. Available any time.
SAGO PUDDING.
1367. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg, puff-paste.
1367. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of milk, 3 tablespoons of sago, the zest of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1 1/2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg, puff pastry.
Mode.—Put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, place it by the side of the fire, and let it remain until the milk is well flavoured with the lemon; then strain it, mix with it the sago and sugar, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool a little, and stir to it the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter. Line the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour.
Mode.—Put the milk and lemon peel into a saucepan, set it by the fire, and let it sit until the milk absorbs the lemon flavor; then strain it, mix in the sago and sugar, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Allow the mixture to cool slightly, then stir in the well-beaten eggs and the butter. Line the edges of a pie dish with puff pastry, pour in the pudding, grate a little nutmeg on top, and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow.
Time.—45 minutes to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is really slow.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
Note.—The above pudding may be boiled instead of baked; but then allow 2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil the pudding in a buttered basin from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour.
Note.—You can boil the pudding instead of baking it; if you do, add 2 extra tablespoons of sago and boil the pudding in a buttered basin for 1 to 1.75 hours.
SAGO.—Sago is the pith of a species of palm (Cycas circinalis). Its form is that of a small round grain. There are two sorts of sago,—the white and the yellow; but their properties are the same. Sago absorbs the liquid in which it is cooked, becomes transparent and soft, and retains its original shape. Its alimentary properties are the same as those of tapioca and arrowroot.
SAGO.—Sago is the pith of a type of palm (Cycas circinalis). It appears as small round grains. There are two kinds of sago—white and yellow—but they have the same properties. Sago soaks up the liquid it’s cooked in, turning transparent and soft while keeping its original shape. Its nutritional qualities are similar to those of tapioca and arrowroot.
SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
1368. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoonful of sago, 1/3 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port or sherry, the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste; when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon.
1368. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoon of sago, 1/3 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port or sherry, the rind and juice of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste; if you enjoy the flavor, add a bit of ground cinnamon.
Mode.—Wash the sago in two or three waters; then put it into a saucepan, with the water and lemon-peel; let it simmer gently by the side of the fire for 10 minutes; then take out the lemon-peel, add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, and serve. Be particular to strain the lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce. This, on trial, will be found a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings, such as those made of bread, raisins, rice, &c.
Mode. — Rinse the sago in two or three waters; then place it in a saucepan with water and lemon peel; let it simmer gently by the side of the fire for 10 minutes; then remove the lemon peel, add the remaining ingredients, bring it to a boil, and serve. Be sure to strain the lemon juice before adding it to the sauce. This, when tried, will be found to be a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings, such as those made of bread, raisins, rice, etc.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 9d.
Duration: 10 minutes. Average cost: 9d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
BAKED SEMOLINA PUDDING.
1369. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of semolina, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs.
1369. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of semolina, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them in it by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour; then strain it, and mix with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over the fire for a few minutes; then take them off, and gradually mix in the eggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the edges with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow oven from 40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little of which may be poured over the pudding.
Mode.—Add flavor to the milk using bitter almonds by infusing them in it near the fire for about 30 minutes. Then strain it and mix in the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over the heat for a few minutes, then remove from the heat and gradually mix in the well-beaten eggs. Grease a pie dish, line the edges with puff pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake in a slow oven for 40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit, a little of which can be poured over the pudding.
Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time: 40 to 50 minutes. Average cost: 1 shilling 2 pence.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
SEMOLINA.—After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful ingredient that can be used for thickening soups, meat or vegetable, of rich or simple quality. Semolina is softening, light, wholesome, easy of digestion, and adapted to the infant, the aged, and the invalid. That of a clear yellow colour, well dried and newly made, is the fittest for use.
SEMOLINA.—After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful ingredient for thickening rich or simple soups, whether they’re meat or vegetable. Semolina is soft, light, nutritious, easy to digest, and suitable for infants, the elderly, and those who are unwell. The best semolina is a clear yellow color, well-dried, and freshly made.
TAPIOCA PUDDING.
1370. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-rind, or bitter almonds.
1370. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 2 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, flavoring of vanilla, grated lemon peel, or bitter almonds.
Mode.—Wash the tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk by the side of the fire for 1/4 hour, occasionally stirring it; then let it cool a little; mix with it the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and flavour with either of the above ingredients, putting in about 12 drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla, whichever is preferred. Butter a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; put in the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If the pudding is boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it in a buttered basin 1-1/2 hour.
Mode.—Rinse the tapioca and let it simmer gently in the milk by the fire for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then, let it cool slightly; mix in the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and flavor with one of the ingredients mentioned above by adding about 12 drops of almond or vanilla essence, whichever you prefer. Grease a pie dish and line the edges with puff pastry; pour in the pudding and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If boiling the pudding, add a little more tapioca and boil it in a greased basin for 1.5 hours.
Time.—1 hour to bake, 1-1/2 hour to boil.
Time.—1 hour to bake, 1.5 hours to boil.
Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
TAPIOCA.—Tapioca is recommended to the convalescent, as being easy of digestion. It may be used in soup or broth, or mixed with milk or water, and butter. It is excellent food for either the healthy or sick, for the reason that it is so quickly digested without fatigue to the stomach.
TAPIOCA.—Tapioca is suggested for those recovering from illness because it's easy to digest. It can be added to soup or broth or mixed with milk, water, and butter. It's great food for both healthy and sick people since it digests quickly without putting a strain on the stomach.
TARTLETS.
1371. INGREDIENTS.—Trimmings of puff-paste, any jam or marmalade that may be preferred.
1371. INGREDIENTS.—Trimmings of puff pastry, any jam or marmalade of your choice.
[Illustration: DISH OF TARTLETS.]
[Illustration: PLATE OF TARTS.]
Mode.—Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1/2 inch; butter some small round patty-pans, line them with it, and cut off the superfluous paste close to the edge of the pan. Put a small piece of bread into each tartlet (this is to keep them in shape), and bake in a brisk oven for about 10 minutes, or rather longer. When they are done, and are of a nice colour, take the pieces of bread out carefully, and replace them by a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Dish them high on a white d'oyley, piled high in the centre, and serve.
Method.—Roll out the dough to about 1/2 inch thick; butter some small round tart pans, line them with the dough, and trim off any extra dough around the edges. Put a small piece of bread in each tartlet (this helps them hold their shape), and bake in a hot oven for about 10 minutes, or a little longer. When they're done and have a nice color, carefully remove the pieces of bread and replace them with a spoonful of jam or marmalade. Arrange them high on a white doily, stacked in the center, and serve.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 1d. each. Sufficient.—1 lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 1 penny each. Sufficient.—1 pound of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets. Seasonable at any time.
ROLLED TREACLE PUDDING.
1372. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1 lb. of treacle, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated ginger.
1372. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, 1 lb. of molasses, 1/2 teaspoon of grated ginger.
Mode.—Make, with 1 lb. of flour, a suet crust by recipe No. 1215; roll it out to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and spread the treacle equally over it, leaving a small margin where the paste joins; close the ends securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. We have inserted this pudding, being economical, and a favourite one with children; it is, of course, only suitable for a nursery, or very plain family dinner. Made with a lard instead of a suet crust, it would be very nice baked, and would be sufficiently done in from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Mode.—Make a suet crust using 1 lb. of flour following recipe No. 1215; roll it out to 1/2 inch thick, and spread the treacle evenly over it, leaving a small edge where the dough meets. Securely close the ends, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, and place it in boiling water, then boil for 2 hours. We’ve included this pudding because it’s economical and a favorite with kids; it’s really only suitable for a nursery or a simple family dinner. If you made it with lard instead of a suet crust, it would also be nice baked, and it would be done in about 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked pudding, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—Boiled pudding, 2 hours; baked pudding, 1.5 to 2 hours.
Average cost, 7d.
Average cost, 7 days.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Seasonal at any time.
MEAT OR SAUSAGE ROLLS.
1373. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, sausage-meat No. 837, the yolk of 1 egg.
1373. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of puff pastry No. 1206, sausage meat No. 837, the yolk of 1 egg.
Mode.—Make 1 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1206; roll it out to the thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10, or 12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Place some sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of the paste, and fold it over the meat; slightly press the edges together, and trim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls over with the yolk of an egg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about 1/2 hour, or longer should they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and ham, minced and seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good rolls.
Method.—Make 1 lb. of puff pastry using recipe No. 1206; roll it out to about 1/2 inch thick, or a bit thinner, and cut it into 8, 10, or 12 squares, depending on how big you want the rolls to be. Place some sausage meat on one half of each square, moisten the edges of the pastry, and fold it over the meat; gently press the edges together and trim them neatly with a knife. Brush the rolls with the yolk of an egg, and bake them in a preheated oven for about 30 minutes, or longer if they are very large. Leftover cold chicken and ham, minced and seasoned, as well as cold veal or beef, also make excellent fillings for rolls.
Time.—1/2 hour, or longer if the rolls are large.
Time.—30 minutes, or longer if the rolls are big.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient.—1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 rolls.
Sufficient.—1 lb. of dough for 10 or 12 rolls.
Seasonable, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April.
In season, with sausage meat, from September to March or April.
SOMERSETSHIRE PUDDINGS.
1374. INGREDIENTS.—3 eggs, their weight in flour, pounded sugar and butter, flavouring of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, or essence of vanilla.
1374. INGREDIENTS.—3 eggs, an equal weight of flour, powdered sugar, and butter, flavored with grated lemon zest, bitter almonds, or vanilla extract.
Mode.—Carefully weigh the various ingredients, by placing on one side of the scales the eggs, and on the other the flour; then the sugar, and then the butter. Warm the butter, and with the hands beat it to a cream; gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar, and keep stirring and beating the mixture without ceasing until it is perfectly smooth. Then add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred; butter some small cups, rather more than half-fill them, and bake in a brisk oven for about 1/2 hour. Turn them out, dish them on a napkin, and serve custard or wine-sauce with them. A pretty little supper-dish may be made of these puddings cold, by cutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife, and putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve, such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste for these puddings requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is beaten, the better will the puddings be. When served cold, they are usually called gâteaux à la Madeleine.
Method.—Carefully weigh the different ingredients, putting the eggs on one side of the scales and the flour on the other; then add the sugar, followed by the butter. Melt the butter and beat it into a cream using your hands; gradually mix in the flour and sifted sugar, continuing to stir and beat the mixture until it's completely smooth. Next, add the eggs, which should be well whisked, along with any preferred flavorings; grease some small cups, fill them a little over halfway, and bake in a hot oven for about 30 minutes. Turn them out, place them on a napkin, and serve with custard or wine sauce. You can create a nice little dessert by serving these puddings cold: cut out a portion from the center with a knife and fill the cavity with a bit of whipped cream or a delicate preserve, like apricot, greengage, or bright marmalade. The batter for these puddings needs a lot of mixing, as the more you beat it, the better the puddings will turn out. When served cold, they are typically called gâteaux à la Madeleine.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, 10d.
Duration: 30 minutes. Average cost: 10p.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 puddings. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 puddings. Good at any time.
SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat.
SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat.
1375. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of finely-chopped suet, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/2 pint of milk or water.
1375. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of finely chopped suet, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 1/2 pint of milk or water.
Mode.—Chop the suet very finely, after freeing it from skin, and mix it well with the flour; add the salt and pepper (this latter ingredient may be omitted if the flavour is not liked), and make the whole into a smooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, and boil from 2-1/2 to 3 hours. To enrich it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for some of the milk or water, and increase the proportion of suet.
Mode.—Finely chop the suet after removing the skin, and mix it thoroughly with the flour; add salt and pepper (you can skip the pepper if you don’t like it), and make everything into a smooth paste with the specified amount of milk or water. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, or place it in a buttered bowl, and boil for 2.5 to 3 hours. To make it richer, replace some of the milk or water with 3 beaten eggs and increase the amount of suet.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3 hours. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—2.5 to 3 hours. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
Note.—When there is a joint roasting or baking, this pudding may be boiled in a long shape, and then cut into slices a few minutes before dinner is served: these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for a minute or two, and then browned before the fire. Most children like this accompaniment to roast meat. Where there is a large family of children, and the means of keeping them are limited, it is a most economical plan to serve up the pudding before the meat: as, in this case, the consumption of the latter article will be much smaller than it otherwise would be.
Note.—When roasting or baking together, you can boil this pudding in a long shape and then cut it into slices a few minutes before dinner is served. These slices should be placed in the dripping pan for a minute or two, then browned in front of the fire. Most kids enjoy this dish with roast meat. If there’s a large family of children and budgets are tight, it’s a very economical idea to serve the pudding before the meat. This way, the amount of meat consumed will be significantly less than it would be otherwise.
SUSSEX, or HARD DUMPLINGS.
SUSSEX, or hard dumplings.
1376. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
1376. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 teaspoon of salt.
Mode.—Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste, previously adding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small round dumplings; drop them into boiling water, and boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They may be served with roast or boiled meat; in the latter case they may be cooked with the meat, but should be dropped into the water when it is quite boiling.
Mode.—Combine the flour and water to create a smooth paste, adding a little salt first. Shape this into small round dumplings; drop them into boiling water and cook for 30 to 45 minutes. They can be served with roasted or boiled meat; if you choose to cook them with the meat, they should be added to the water when it’s at a rolling boil.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes.
Sufficient for 10 or 12 dumplings. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 10 or 12 dumplings. Suitable at any time.
VERMICELLI PUDDING.
1377. INGREDIENTS.—4 oz. of vermicelli, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs.
1377. INGREDIENTS.—4 oz. of vermicelli, 1-1/2 pints of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender; then stir in the remaining ingredients, omitting the cream, if not obtainable. Flavour the mixture with grated lemon-rind, essence of bitter almonds, or vanilla; butter a pie-dish; line the edges with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about 3/4 hour.
Mode.—Cook the vermicelli in the milk until it’s soft. Then mix in the other ingredients, leaving out the cream if you can't find it. Add flavor to the mixture with grated lemon zest, almond extract, or vanilla; grease a pie dish; line the edges with puff pastry, pour in the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes.
Time.—3/4 hour.
Time.—45 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 2d. without cream.
Average cost, 1s. 2d. without cream.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
VERMICELLI.—The finest vermicelli comes from Marseilles, Nimes, and Montpellier. It is a nourishing food, and owes its name to its peculiar thread-like form. Vermicelli means, little worms.
VERMICELLI.—The best vermicelli comes from Marseille, Nîmes, and Montpellier. It's a nutritious food, and its name comes from its unique thread-like shape. Vermicelli means, little worms.
VICARAGE PUDDING.
1378. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt.
1378. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of chopped suet, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of raisins, 1 tablespoon of brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger, 1/2 dash of salt.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a basin, having previously stoned the raisins, and washed, picked, and dried the currants; mix well with a clean knife; dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring it out, and put in the mixture. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, plunge in the pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out on the dish, and serve with sifted sugar.
Mode.—Place all the ingredients in a bowl, making sure to remove the pits from the raisins and to wash, sort, and dry the currants. Mix everything together thoroughly with a clean knife. Dip the pudding cloth in boiling water, wring it out, and add the mixture. Prepare a pot of boiling water, immerse the pudding in it, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out onto a serving plate and serve with sifted sugar.
Time.—3 hours.
Duration.—3 hours.
Average cost, 8d.
Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable.—Suitable for a winter pudding.
Seasonal.—Great for a winter pudding.
VOL-AU-VENT (an Entree).
VOL-AU-VENT (an appetizer).
1379. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, fricasseed chickens, rabbits, ragouts, or the remains of cold fish, flaked and warmed in thick white sauce.
1379. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 to 1 lb. of puff pastry No. 1208, cooked chickens, rabbits, stews, or leftover cold fish, flaked and warmed in a thick white sauce.
[Illustration: VOL-AU-VENT.]
[Illustration: Puff Pastry Cup.]
Mode.—Make from 3/4 to 1 lb. of puff-paste, by recipe No. 1208, taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time, to insure its rising properly; and if the paste is not extremely light, and put into a good hot oven, this cannot be accomplished, and the vol-au-vent will look very badly. Roll out the paste to the thickness of about 1-1/2 inch, and, with a fluted cutter, stamp it out to the desired shape, either round or oval, and, with the point of a small knife, make a slight incision in the paste all round the top, about an inch from the edge, which, when baked, forms the lid. Put the vol-au-vent into a good brisk oven, and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it is put in. Particular attention should he paid to the heating of the oven, for the paste cannot rise without a tolerable degree of heat When of a nice colour, without being scorched, withdraw it from the oven, instantly remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all the soft crumb from the centre: in doing this, be careful not to break the edges of the vol-au-vent; but should they look thin in places, stop them with small flakes of the inside paste, stuck on with the white of an egg. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee or ragoût from bursting the case, and so spoiling the appearance of the dish. Fill the vol-au-vent with a rich mince, or fricassee, or ragoût, or the remains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce, and do not make them very liquid, for fear of the gravy bursting the crust: replace the lid, and serve. To improve the appearance of the crust, brush it over with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly.—See coloured plate O1.
Mode.—Make 3/4 to 1 lb. of puff pastry using recipe No. 1208, ensuring it is rolled out evenly each time to ensure it rises well; if the pastry isn’t extremely light and placed in a properly hot oven, it won’t rise correctly, resulting in a poorly shaped vol-au-vent. Roll out the pastry to about 1-1/2 inches thick, and use a fluted cutter to cut it into the desired shape, either round or oval. With the tip of a small knife, make a slight incision around the top, about an inch from the edge, which will form the lid once baked. Place the vol-au-vent in a hot oven, keeping the door closed for a few minutes after putting it in. Pay close attention to the oven’s temperature, as the pastry cannot rise without adequate heat. When it has a nice color without being burnt, take it out of the oven, carefully remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all the soft crumb from the center; be careful not to break the edges of the vol-au-vent. If the edges look thin in places, reinforce them with small bits of the leftover pastry attached with egg white. This step is necessary to prevent the filling from bursting the case, ruining the dish's appearance. Fill the vol-au-vent with a rich mince or fricassee, or a ragoût, or leftover cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce, ensuring it isn't too liquid, to avoid the gravy breaking the crust. Replace the lid and serve. To enhance the appearance of the crust, brush it with egg yolk after it has risen properly.—See coloured plate O1.
Time.—3/4 hour to bake the vol-au-vent.
Time.—45 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.
Average cost, exclusive of interior, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, excluding the interior, 1s. 6d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
[Illustration: SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS.]
[Illustration: Mini Vol-au-Vents.]
Note.—Small vol-au-vents may be made like those shown in the engraving, and filled with minced veal, chicken, &c. They should be made of the same paste as the larger ones, and stamped out with a small fluted cutter.
Note.—You can make small vol-au-vents like the ones shown in the engraving, and fill them with minced veal, chicken, etc. They should be made from the same dough as the larger ones and cut out with a small fluted cutter.
SWEET VOL-AU-VENT OF PLUMS, APPLES, OR ANY OTHER FRESH FRUIT.
1380. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, about 1 pint of fruit compôte.
1380. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of puff pastry No. 1208, about 1 pint of fruit compote.
Mode.—Make 1/2 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1208, taking care to bake it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up nicely and make it look light. Have ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup of which must be boiled down until very thick; fill the vol-au-vent with this, and pile it high in the centre; powder a little sugar over it, and put it back in the oven to glaze, or use a salamander for the purpose: the vol-au-vent is then ready to serve. They may be made with any fruit that is in season, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants, cherries, apples, &c.; but care must be taken not to have the syrup too thin, for fear of its breaking through the crust.
Mode.—Make 1/2 lb. of puff pastry using recipe No. 1208, making sure to bake it in a hot oven to help it rise nicely and look light. Have enough stewed fruit ready, and boil the syrup down until it’s very thick; fill the vol-au-vent with this and mound it up high in the center. Sprinkle a little sugar on top and put it back in the oven to glaze, or use a salamander for that: the vol-au-vent is then ready to serve. You can use any seasonal fruit, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants, cherries, apples, etc.; but be careful not to make the syrup too thin, or it might leak through the crust.
Time.—1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.
Time.—30 to 40 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.
Average cost, exclusive of the compôte, 1s. 1d.
Average cost, excluding the compôte, 1s. 1d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets.
Enough for 1 dessert.
VOL-AU-VENT OF FRESH STRAWBERRIES WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
1381. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of puff-paste No. 1208, 1 pint of freshly-gathered strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped cream.
1381. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of puff pastry No. 1208, 1 pint of freshly picked strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped cream.
Mode.—Make a vol-au-vent case by recipe No. 1379, only not quite so large nor so high as for a savoury one. When nearly done, brush the paste over with the white of an egg, then sprinkle on it some pounded sugar, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze. Remove the interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with the strawberries, which should be picked, and broken up with sufficient sugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on the top, and serve.
Mode.—Make a vol-au-vent shell using recipe No. 1379, but make it a bit smaller and not as tall as one for a savory dish. When it's nearly done, brush the pastry with egg white, then sprinkle some powdered sugar on top, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze. Remove the soft interior, and just before serving, fill it with ripe strawberries that have been picked and mixed with enough sugar to sweeten them nicely. Add a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on top, and serve.
Time.—1/2 hour to 40 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.
Time.—30 to 40 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.
Average cost, 2s. 3d.
Average cost, 2s. 3d.
Sufficient for 1 vol-au-vent.
Enough for 1 puff pastry.
Seasonable in June and July.
Seasonal in June and July.
STRAWBERRY.—Among the Greeks, the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity, this fruit forming hardly a mouthful. With the Latins, the name reminded one of the delicious perfume of this plant. Both nations were equally fond of it, and applied the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to place it in the same rank with flowers; and Ovid gives it a tender epithet, which delicate palates would not disavow. Neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry, which disappears beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented air reveals.
STRAWBERRY.—In ancient Greece, the word for strawberry referred to its delicate size, as it barely filled the mouth. For the Romans, the name evoked the lovely fragrance of the plant. Both cultures loved strawberries and took great care in growing them. Virgil seems to rank it alongside flowers, while Ovid uses a sweet descriptor that refined tastes would appreciate. This indulgent poet also remembers the wild strawberry, which hides beneath its humble leaves, but whose presence is announced by the fragrant air.
WEST-INDIAN PUDDING.
1382. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cream, 1/2 lb. of loaf-sugar, 1/2 lb. of Savoy or sponge-cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green ginger. Mode.—Crumble down the cakes, put them into a basin, and pour over them the cream, which should be previously sweetened and brought to the boiling-point; cover the basin, well beat the eggs, and when the cream is soaked up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange the ginger round it, pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a cloth; steam or boil it slowly for 1-1/2 hour, and serve with the syrup from the ginger, which should be warmed, and poured over the pudding.
1382. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cream, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/2 lb. of Savoy or sponge cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green ginger. Method.—Crumble the cakes into a bowl, and pour the cream over them. The cream should be sweetened and heated to boiling first. Cover the bowl, beat the eggs well, and once the cake has absorbed the cream, stir in the eggs. Grease a mold, arrange the ginger around it, carefully pour in the pudding mixture, and secure it with a cloth. Steam or boil it slowly for 1-1/2 hours, and serve it with the warmed syrup from the ginger poured over the pudding.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 8d.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 2 shillings and 8 pence.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good to have at any time.
YEAST DUMPLINGS.
1383. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 quartern of dough, boiling water.
1383. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 quarter of dough, boiling water.
Mode.—Make a very light dough as for bread, using to mix it, milk, instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge them into boiling water, and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve the instant they are taken up, as they spoil directly, by falling and becoming heavy; and in eating them do not touch them with a knife, but tear them apart with two forks. They may be eaten with meat gravy, or cold butter and sugar, and if not convenient to make the dough at home, a little from the baker's answers as well, only it must be placed for a few minutes near the fire, in a basin with a cloth over it, to let it rise again before it is made into dumplings.
Mode.—Make a very light dough like bread, using milk instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge them into boiling water and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve them right away as they spoil quickly by sinking and becoming heavy; and when eating them, don’t use a knife, but tear them apart with two forks. They can be enjoyed with meat gravy or cold butter and sugar, and if it's not convenient to make the dough at home, you can buy a little from the bakery, but it must be warmed for a few minutes near the fire, covered with a cloth in a bowl, to let it rise again before making it into dumplings.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 4d.
Duration: 20 minutes. Average cost: 4d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
YEAST consists principally of a substance very similar in composition, and in many of its sensible properties, to gluten; and, when new or fresh, it is inflated and rendered frothy by a large quantity of carbonic acid. When mixed with wort, this substance acts upon the saccharine matter; the temperature rises, carbonic acid is disengaged, and the result is ale, which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol, or spirit. The quantity of yeast employed in brewing ale being small, the saccharine matter is but imperfectly decomposed: hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor, and gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is remarkable. The fermenting property of yeast is weakened by boiling for ten minutes, and is entirely destroyed by continuing the boiling. Alcohol poured upon it likewise renders it inert; on which account its power lessens as the alcohol is formed during fermentation.
YEAST mainly consists of a substance that is very similar in composition and many of its noticeable properties to gluten. When it's fresh, it's puffed up and frothy due to a large amount of carbon dioxide. When mixed with wort, this substance interacts with the sugary material; the temperature goes up, carbon dioxide is released, and the result is ale, which always has a significant amount of alcohol or spirit. Since only a small amount of yeast is used in brewing ale, the sugary material is not fully broken down; thus, a notable portion of it remains in the liquid, giving it the thick texture and body it’s known for. The fermenting ability of yeast is weakened by boiling for ten minutes and is completely destroyed by prolonged boiling. Pouring alcohol on it also makes it inactive, which is why its power decreases as the alcohol is produced during fermentation.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING, to serve with hot Roast Beef.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING, to serve with hot Roast Beef.
1384. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of milk, 6 large tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
1384. INGREDIENTS.—1½ pints of milk, 6 large tablespoons of flour, 3 eggs, 1 pinch of salt.
[Illustration: YORKSHIRE PUDDING.]
[Illustration: Yorkshire pudding.]
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir gradually to this enough milk to make it into a stiff batter. When this is perfectly smooth, and all the lumps are well rubbed down, add the remainder of the milk and the eggs, which should be well beaten. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and pour it into a shallow tin, which has been previously well rubbed with beef dripping. Put the pudding into the oven, and bake it for an hour; then, for another 1/2 hour, place it under the meat, to catch a little of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding into small square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat is baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the former on a small three-cornered stand.
Mode.—Put the flour into a bowl with the salt, and gradually stir in enough milk to make a thick batter. When it's perfectly smooth and all the lumps are gone, add the rest of the milk and the eggs, which should be well beaten. Mix the batter for a few minutes, then pour it into a shallow tin that has been well greased with beef dripping. Place the pudding in the oven and bake it for an hour; then, for another 30 minutes, position it under the meat to catch some of the gravy that drips down. Cut the pudding into small squares, place them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat is being baked, the pudding can go directly underneath it, using a small three-cornered stand for support.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 7d.
Duration: 1.5 hours. Average cost: 7d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Appropriate at any time.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXVIII.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, & SWEET
DISHES.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, & SWEET
DISHES.
1385. CREAMS.—The yellowish-white, opaque fluid, smooth and unctuous to the touch, which separates itself from new milk, and forms a layer on its surface, when removed by skimming, is employed in a variety of culinary preparations. The analyses of the contents of cream have been decided to be, in 100 parts—butter, 3.5; curd, or matter of cheese, 3.5; whey, 92.0. That cream contains an oil, is evinced by its staining clothes in the manner of oil; and when boiled for some time, a little oil floats upon the surface. The thick animal oil which it contains, the well-known butter, is separated only by agitation, as in the common process of churning, and the cheesy matter remains blended with the whey in the state of buttermilk. Of the several kinds of cream, the principal are the Devonshire and Dutch clotted creams, the Costorphin cream, and the Scotch sour cream. The Devonshire cream is produced by nearly boiling the milk in shallow tin vessels over a charcoal fire, and kept in that state until the whole of the cream is thrown up. It is used for eating with fruits and tarts. The cream from Costorphin, a village of that name near Edinburgh, is accelerated in its separation from three or four days' old milk, by a certain degree of heat; and the Dutch clotted cream—a coagulated mass in which a spoon will stand upright—is manufactured from fresh-drawn milk, which is put into a pan, and stirred with a spoon two or three times a day, to prevent the cream from separating from the milk. The Scotch "sour cream" is a misnomer; for it is a material produced without cream. A small tub filled with skimmed milk is put into a larger one, containing hot water, and after remaining there all night, the thin milk (called wigg) is drawn off, and the remainder of the contents of the smaller vessel is "sour cream."
1385. CREAMS.—The yellowish-white, opaque liquid, smooth and creamy to the touch, that rises to the top of fresh milk and forms a layer when skimmed is used in various cooking recipes. The analysis of cream reveals that in every 100 parts, there are 3.5 parts butter, 3.5 parts curd or cheese matter, and 92.0 parts whey. The presence of oil in cream is shown by its ability to stain clothes like oil does, and when boiled for a while, a small amount of oil floats on top. The thick animal fat it contains, commonly known as butter, is separated by movement, as in the usual process of churning, while the cheesy substance stays mixed with the whey as buttermilk. Among the various types of cream, the main ones are Devonshire cream, Dutch clotted cream, Costorphin cream, and Scotch sour cream. Devonshire cream is made by nearly boiling milk in shallow tin containers over a charcoal fire, keeping it in that state until all the cream has risen. It’s typically served with fruits and tarts. The cream from Costorphin, a village near Edinburgh, separates from milk that is three or four days old, aided by a slight heat; while Dutch clotted cream—a thick mass in which a spoon can stand up—is produced from fresh milk that is placed in a pan and stirred two or three times a day to keep the cream from separating. The term "sour cream" used in Scotland is inaccurate, as it is made without actual cream. A small tub filled with skimmed milk is placed inside a larger tub of hot water, and after being left overnight, the thin milk (called wigg) is drawn off, leaving behind the remaining contents of the smaller tub, which is labeled "sour cream."
1386. JELLIES are not the nourishing food they were at one time considered to be, and many eminent physicians are of opinion that they are less digestible than the flesh, or muscular part of animals; still, when acidulated with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine, they are very suitable for some convalescents. Vegetable jelly is a distinct principle, existing in fruits, which possesses the property of gelatinizing when boiled and cooled; but it is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies, although the name of jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on that subject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, is glue, whereas vegetable jelly is rather analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine very low indeed in the scale of usefulness. He says, "Gelatine, which by itself is tasteless, and when eaten, excites nausea, possesses no nutritive value; that, even when accompanied by the savoury constituents of flesh, it is not capable of supporting the vital process, and when added to the usual diet as a substitute for plastic matter, does not increase, but, on the contrary, diminishes the nutritive value of the food, which it renders insufficient in quantity and inferior in quality." It is this substance which is most frequently employed in the manufacture of the jellies supplied by the confectioner; but those prepared at home from calves' feet do possess some nutrition, and are the only sort that should be given to invalids. Isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine, and is prepared from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish, chiefly the sturgeon. From its whiteness it is mostly used for making blanc-mange and similar dishes.
1386. JELLIES aren't the nutritious food they used to be thought of, and many well-known doctors believe they're harder to digest than meat. However, when mixed with lemon juice and flavored with wine, they can be quite suitable for some people recovering from illness. Vegetable jelly is a different substance found in fruits that has the ability to gel when boiled and cooled, but it is completely different from animal gelatine, even though the term "jelly" is used for both and can cause confusion. Animal jelly, or gelatine, acts like glue, while vegetable jelly is more like gum. Liebig rates gelatine very low on the scale of usefulness. He states, "Gelatine, which is tasteless on its own and can cause nausea when eaten, has no nutritional value; even when combined with the tasty parts of meat, it cannot sustain life, and when added to an ordinary diet as a substitute for nutrient-rich matter, it does not enhance but rather reduces the nutritional value of the food, making it insufficient in quantity and lower in quality." This substance is often used in the jellies made by candy makers; however, those prepared at home using calves' feet do have some nutritional value and are the only type that should be given to sick people. Isinglass is the purest form of gelatine, made from the sounds or swim bladders of certain fish, mainly sturgeon. Because of its whiteness, it is mostly used for making blanc-mange and similar dishes.
1387. THE WHITE OF EGGS is perhaps the best substance that can be employed in clarifying jelly, as well as some other fluids, for the reason that when albumen (and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen) is put into a liquid that is muddy, from substances suspended in it, on boiling the liquid, the albumen coagulates in a flocculent manner, and, entangling with it the impurities, rises with them to the surface as a scum, or sinks to the bottom, according to their weight.
1387. THE WHITE OF EGGS is probably the best ingredient to use for clarifying jelly and some other liquids. This is because when albumen (which is almost pure albumen) is added to a muddy liquid that has suspended particles, it coagulates in a fluffy way when the liquid is boiled. It captures the impurities and either rises to the surface as a scum or sinks to the bottom, depending on their weight.
1388. SOUFFLES, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES, in which eggs form the principal ingredient, demand, for their successful manufacture, an experienced cook. They are the prettiest, but most difficult of all entremets. The most essential thing to insure success is to secure the best ingredients from an honest tradesman. The entremets coming within the above classification, are healthy, nourishing, and pleasant to the taste, and may be eaten with safety by persons of the most delicate stomachs.
1388. SOUFFLÉS, OMELETS, AND SWEET DISHES, where eggs are the main ingredient, require an experienced cook for successful preparation. They are the prettiest yet most challenging of all side dishes. The most important factor for success is to get the best ingredients from a trustworthy seller. The dishes in this category are healthy, nourishing, and enjoyable to eat, making them safe for even the most sensitive stomachs.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXIX.
BAKED APPLE CUSTARD.
1389. INGREDIENTS.—1 dozen large apples, moist sugar to taste, 1 small teacupful of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar.
1389. INGREDIENTS.—1 dozen large apples, sugar to taste, 1 small cup of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Peel, cut, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepan with the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp; sweeten with moist sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. When cold, put the fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, made with the above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmeg over the top, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake from 25 to 35 minutes. The above proportions will make rather a large dish.
Mode.—Peel, chop, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepan with cold water, and as they heat up, mash them into a pulp; add moist sugar to sweeten, and mix in the grated lemon zest. Once it cools, layer the fruit at the bottom of a pie dish and pour a custard made with the same amount of milk, eggs, and sugar over it; sprinkle a little nutmeg on top, place the dish in a moderately hot oven, and bake for 25 to 35 minutes. This recipe will yield a fairly large dish.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes.
Duration.—25 to 35 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Enough for 6 or 7 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
BUTTERED APPLES (Sweet Entremets).
Buttered Apples (Sweet Dessert).
1390. INGREDIENTS.—Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little apricot jam.
1390. INGREDIENTS.—Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good cooking apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little apricot jam.
Mode.—Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing them; boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes; then lay in the apples, and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let them break. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, and flavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange the apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and in between them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place the dish in the oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar; either brown it before the fire or with a salamander, and serve hot.
Method.—Peel the apples and remove the cores without cutting them; boil the sugar and water for a few minutes; then add the apples and let them simmer gently until they're tender, making sure not to let them fall apart. Prepare enough marmalade using recipe No. 1395, flavored with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange the apples on top of this with a small piece of butter in each, and add a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade in between. Place the dish in the oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle sifted sugar on top; either brown it over the fire or use a salamander, and serve hot.
Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10 minutes in the oven.
Time.—Stew the apples very gently for 20 to 30 minutes, then bake for 10 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets.
Enough for 1 dessert.
Note.—The syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for another occasion.
Note.—The syrup that the apples were cooked in should be saved for later.
FLANC OF APPLES, or APPLES IN A RAISED CRUST.
FLANC OF APPLES, or APPLES IN A RAISED CRUST.
(Sweet Entremets.)
(Sweet Desserts.)
1391. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9 moderate-sized apples, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of white sugar, 3/4 pint of water, a few strips of candied citron.
1391. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9 medium-sized apples, the zest and juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of white sugar, 3/4 pint of water, a few strips of candied citron.
Mode.—Make a short crust by either of the above recipes; roll it out to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and butter an oval mould; line it with the crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain the form of the mould, but be particular not to break the paste. Pinch the part that just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, and fill the case with flour; bake it for about 3/4 hour; then take it out of the oven, remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another 1/4 hour, and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the apples, which should be prepared in the following manner: peel, and take out the cores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose, without dividing the apples; put them into a small lined saucepan, just capable of holding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and rind, in the above proportion. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out the apples, let them cool, arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil down the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly; pour it over the apples, and garnish them with a few slices of candied citron.
Mode.—Make a short crust using either of the above recipes; roll it out to 1/2 inch thick, and butter an oval mold. Line it with the crust, pressing it carefully around the sides to fit the shape of the mold, but be careful not to break the paste. Pinch the part that rises above the mold with paste-pincers, and fill the case with flour; bake it for about 45 minutes. Then take it out of the oven, remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another 15 minutes, and make sure it doesn't get burnt. It’s now ready for the apples, which should be prepared as follows: peel and core them with a small knife or a corer, without cutting the apples in half; place them in a small lined saucepan that can hold them, with sugar, water, lemon juice, and rind in the specified proportions. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out the apples, let them cool, arrange them in the flan or case, and boil down the syrup until it thickens to a jelly-like consistency; pour it over the apples, and garnish with a few slices of candied citron.
1392. A MORE SIMPLE FLANC may be made by rolling out the paste, cutting the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for the sides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to the bottom piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a mould; but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness, and so perfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This dish may also be served hot, and should be garnished in the same manner, or a little melted apricot jam may be poured over the apples, which very much improves their flavour.
1392. A SIMPLER FLAN can be made by rolling out the dough, cutting out a round or oval base, and then a narrow strip for the sides. These should be attached with egg white to the base, and then the flan filled with raw fruit, adding enough sugar to sweeten it nicely. It won't take as long to bake as it would in a mold; however, the crust needs to be of even thickness all around, and perfectly sealed so that the juice doesn't leak out. This dish can also be served hot and should be garnished in the same way, or a bit of melted apricot jam can be drizzled over the apples, which greatly enhances their flavor.
Time.—Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc from 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples very gently.
Time.—In total, 1 hour to bake the flan, plus 30 to 40 minutes to gently stew the apples.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish.
Enough for 1 dessert or side.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
APPLE FRITTERS.
1393. INGREDIENTS.—For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarified beef-dripping.
1393. INGREDIENTS.—For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarified beef drippings.
Mode.—Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks, and beat them separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter, which should be melted to a cream; add the salt, and moisten with sufficient warm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say, a batter that will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any lumps that may be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which have been previously well whisked; beat up the batter for a few minutes, and it is ready for use. Now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices, without dividing them, and stamp out the middle of each slice, where the core is, with a cutter. Throw the slices into the batter; have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; take out the pieces of apple one by one, put them into the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turning them—when required. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to absorb the greasy moisture; then dish on a white d'oyley, piled one above the other; strew over them some pounded sugar, and serve very hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very much improved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed with sugar and lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table; the batter, also, is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters are made.
Mode.—Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks and beat them separately. Put the flour into a bowl, stir in the butter, which should be melted to a creamy consistency; add the salt and moisten with enough warm milk to achieve the right consistency, meaning a batter that will drop from the spoon. Mix this well, breaking down any lumps that might be present, and add the previously whisked egg whites; beat the batter for a few minutes, and it’s ready to use. Now peel and cut the apples into thick whole slices, without dividing them, and use a cutter to remove the core from each slice. Dip the slices into the batter; have a pan of boiling lard or clarified fat ready; take out the apple pieces one by one, place them in the hot lard, and fry until golden brown, turning them as needed. Once done, place them on a piece of blotting paper in front of the fire to absorb any excess grease; then serve them on a white doily, layered on top of each other; sprinkle some powdered sugar over them and serve very hot. The flavor of the fritters would improve significantly if the apple pieces are soaked in a bit of wine mixed with sugar and lemon juice for 3 or 4 hours before serving; the batter is also better if mixed a few hours before making the fritters.
Time.—About 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them.
Time.—Approximately 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
ICED APPLES, or APPLE HEDGEHOG.
Iced apples, or apple hedgehog.
1394. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 dozen good boiling apples, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1/2 pint of water, the rind of 1/2 lemon minced very fine, the whites of 2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds.
1394. INGREDIENTS.—About 3 dozen good cooking apples, 1/2 lb. sugar, 1/2 pint water, the rind of 1/2 lemon finely minced, the whites of 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons of powdered sugar, a few sweet almonds.
Mode.—Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them, and stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with 1/2 lb. of sugar and 1/2 pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish. Have ready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into thin slices; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and boil gently until they are reduced to a marmalade: they must be kept stirred, to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish with some of the marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed apples, in the insides of which, and between each, place some of the marmalade; then place another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmalade as before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and cover the apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut each almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances over the icing sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, and place the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and for the apples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served cold, and makes a pretty supper-dish.
Mode.—Peel and core a dozen apples without cutting them in half, and gently simmer them in a lined saucepan with 1/2 lb. of sugar and 1/2 pint of water. Once they're tender, carefully place them on a dish. Prepare the remaining apples by peeling, coring, and slicing them thinly; add them to the same syrup along with the lemon peel, and cook gently until it thickens into a marmalade. Stir constantly to prevent burning. Spread some of the marmalade on the bottom of a dish, then layer on the stewed apples, filling the insides and gaps with more marmalade. Add another layer of apples, filling the gaps with marmalade like before, shaping it all into a raised oval. Whip the egg whites until stiff, mix in the powdered sugar, and smoothly cover the apples with the icing. Blanch and slice each almond into 4 or 5 strips; arrange these strips evenly over the icing, standing upright. Sprinkle some rough powdered sugar on top, and place the dish in a very low oven to brown the almonds and warm the apples through. This dish can also be served cold and makes a lovely supper treat.
Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.
Time.—Stew the apples for 20 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s.
Average cost, 1s. 9d. to 2s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Entremets or Dessert Dishes.
THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Desserts or Sweet Dishes.
1395. INGREDIENTS.—Apples; to every lb. of pulp allow 3/4 lb. of sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel.
1395. INGREDIENTS.—Apples; for every lb. of pulp, use 3/4 lb. of sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon of chopped lemon peel.
[Illustration: APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS.]
[Illustration: APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS.]
Mode.—Peel, core, and boil the apples with only sufficient water to prevent them from burning; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. of pulp allow the above proportion of sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into water; put these into a saucepan, and boil till the syrup is thick and can be well skimmed; then add this syrup to the apple pulp, with the minced lemon-peel, and stir it over a quick fire for about 20 minutes, or until the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is then done, and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped in water, when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish; for the latter a little custard should be poured round, and it should be garnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cook the apples with just enough water to keep them from burning; mash them into a pulp, and for every pound of pulp, use the specified amount of sugar in chunks. Dip the chunks in water; place them in a saucepan, and boil until the syrup thickens and can be skimmed well; then mix this syrup with the apple pulp, along with the minced lemon peel, and cook over high heat for about 20 minutes, or until the apples stop sticking to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is then ready and can be poured into molds that have been rinsed in water, allowing it to come out nicely for dessert or as a side dish; for the latter, pour a little custard around it and garnish with strips of citron or blanched almonds.
Time.—From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 minutes to boil after the sugar is added.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes to break down the apples into a pulp; 20 minutes to boil after adding the sugar.
Sufficient.—1-1/2 lb. of apples sufficient for a small mould.
Sufficient.—1.5 lbs of apples is enough for a small mold.
Seasonable from July to March; but is best in September, October or November.
In season from July to March; but it's best in September, October, or November.
CLEAR APPLE JELLY.
1396. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen apples, 1-1/2 pint of spring-water; to every pint of juice allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon.
1396. INGREDIENTS.—2 dozen apples, 1.5 pints of spring water; for every pint of juice, use 0.5 lb. of loaf sugar, 0.5 oz. of isinglass, and the zest of 0.5 lemon.
Mode.—Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them, with the lemon-peel, until tender; then strain off the apples, and run the juice through a jelly-bag; put the strained juice, with the sugar and isinglass, which has been previously boiled in 1/2 pint of water, into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/4 hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and clear, and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table, with a little custard or whipped cream round it: the addition of a little lemon-juice improves the flavour, but it is apt to render the jelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time, rather a larger proportion of sugar must be used.
Method.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them with the lemon peel until they’re soft. Then strain the apples and run the juice through a jelly bag. Put the strained juice, along with the sugar and isinglass that has been boiled in 1/2 pint of water, into a lined saucepan or preserving pan. Boil everything together for about 15 minutes, and pour the jelly into molds. When this jelly is nice and clear and comes out well, it makes a lovely addition to the supper table, served with a little custard or whipped cream around it. Adding a bit of lemon juice enhances the flavor, but it can make the jelly cloudy and thick. If you need to store it for a longer time, use a slightly larger amount of sugar.
Time.—From 1 to 1-1/2 hour to boil the apples; 1/4 hour the jelly.
Time.—Boil the apples for 1 to 1.5 hours; the jelly for 15 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient for a 1-1/2-pint mould.
Sufficient for a 1.5-pint mold.
Seasonable from July to March.
Available from July to March.
A PRETTY DISH OF APPLES AND RICE.
1397. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of boiled custard No. 1423.
1397. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of boiled custard No. 1423.
Mode.—Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together for a few minutes; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice is quite soft; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and core the apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar and water in the above proportion; and, when soft, lift them out on a sieve to drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish; lay the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached; smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and stick the apples into it in rows, one row sloping to the right and the next to the left. Set it in the oven to colour the apples; then, when required for table, remove the gallipot, garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle sufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to be level with the top of the rice, and serve hot.
Mode.—Infuse the milk with lemon zest by boiling them together for a few minutes; then remove the peel and add the rice, along with enough sugar to sweeten it nicely. Simmer gently until the rice is soft, then let it cool. Meanwhile, peel, quarter, and core the apples, and cook them until tender in a syrup made from sugar and water in the same proportion; once soft, transfer them to a sieve to drain. Now place a medium-sized jar in the center of a dish; surround it with the rice until the top of the jar is reached, smoothing the rice with the back of a spoon. Arrange the apples in rows, alternating the slant to the right and left. Put it in the oven to brown the apples; when ready to serve, remove the jar, garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour enough custard, made using recipe No. 1423, into the center so it's level with the top of the rice, and serve hot.
Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; 3/4 hour to simmer the rice; 1/4 hour to bake.
Time.—20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; 45 minutes to simmer the rice; 15 minutes to bake.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Available from July to March.
APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE.
1398. INGREDIENTS.—8 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries, garnishing of apricot jam.
1398. INGREDIENTS.—8 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries, garnishing of apricot jam.
Mode.—Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the cores; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, without being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a white apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; cover the bottom of the dish with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain, pile them neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place a preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candied citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table.
Mode.—Peel the apples and use a vegetable corer to remove the cores; boil them with the specified amount of sugar and water, being careful not to overcook them so they don't break apart. Prepare a white apple marmalade using recipe No. 1395; spread this evenly across the bottom of the dish and let the apples drain in a sieve. Arrange the apples neatly on top of the marmalade, making a mound in the center, and place a preserved cherry on top of each apple. Garnish with strips of candied citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready to serve.
Time.—From 20 to SO minutes to stew the apples.
Time.—Stew the apples for 20 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, £1.15
Sufficient for 1 entremets.
Enough for 1 dessert.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
APPLES IN RED JELLY.
(A pretty Supper Dish.)
(A beautiful dinner dish.)
1399. INGREDIENTS.—6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, pounded sugar, 1 lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a few drops of prepared cochineal.
1399. INGREDIENTS.—6 medium apples, 12 cloves, granulated sugar, 1 lemon, 2 cups of water, 1 tablespoon of gelatin, a few drops of food coloring.
Mode.—Choose rather large apples; peel them and take out the cores, either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each apple 2 cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, without touching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with a dish over them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, as each apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left in the oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil the appearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the dish without touching each other, strain the liquor in which they have been stewing, into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the lemon, and a tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold water, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till quite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain the jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let it cool a little; then pour it into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnish the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or the white of an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar.
Mode.—Choose fairly large apples; peel them and remove the cores using a scoop or a small silver knife, then place 2 cloves and as much sifted sugar as they can hold into each apple. Arrange them in a large pie dish, making sure they don't touch each other; add more white sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacups of water. Bake in the oven with a dish covering them until they're done. Check on them frequently, and once each apple is cooked, transfer it to a glass dish. Do not leave them in the oven after they are done, or they will break and ruin the presentation. Once the apples are nicely arranged in the dish without touching, strain the liquid they have been cooking in into a lined saucepan; add the lemon rind and a tablespoon of gelatine that has been previously dissolved in cold water, along with a bit more sugar if it's not sweet enough, and 6 cloves. Boil until completely clear; color with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain the jelly through a double layer of muslin into a jug; allow it to cool a little; then pour it around the apples in the dish. Once it's completely cool, top the apples with a vibrant marmalade, jelly, or beaten egg white mixed with a little sifted sugar.
Time.—From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples.
Time.—Bake the apples for 30 to 50 minutes.
Average cost, 1s., with the garnishing.
Average cost, 1 shilling, including the garnish.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Suitable for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Available from July to March.
APPLES AND RICE.
(A Plain Dish.)
(A Simple Meal.)
1400. INGREDIENTS.—8 good sized apples, 3 oz. of butter, the rind of 1/2 lemon minced very fine, 6 oz. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam.
1400. INGREDIENTS.—8 medium apples, 3 oz. of butter, the zest of 1/2 lemon finely chopped, 6 oz. of rice, 1-1/2 pints of milk, sugar to taste, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoons of apricot jam.
Mode.—Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores; put them into a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar over to sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew the apples very gently until tender, taking care they do not break. Boil the rice, with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and, when thoroughly done, dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange the apples on it, warm the apricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve hot.
Mode.—Peel the apples, cut them in half, and remove the cores; place them in a saucepan with the butter, and sprinkle enough sifted sugar on top to sweeten them nicely, and add the chopped lemon peel. Cook the apples very gently until they're tender, making sure they don't break. Boil the rice with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg until it's soft, and when it's fully cooked, serve it piled high in the center; arrange the apples on top, warm the apricot jam, pour it over everything, and serve hot.
Time.—About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently; about 3/4 hour to cook the rice.
Time.—Stew the apples very gently for about 30 minutes; cook the rice for about 3/4 hour.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Available from July to March.
APPLE SNOW.
(A pretty Supper Dish.)
(A nice dinner plate.)
1401. INGREDIENTS.—10 good-sized apples, the whites of 10 eggs, the rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of pounded sugar.
1401. INGREDIENTS.—10 medium apples, the whites of 10 eggs, the zest of 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them into a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them from burning,—rather less than 1/2 pint. When they are tender, take out the peel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them to the whites of the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth. Add the sifted sugar, and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quite stiff; and either heap it on a glass dish, or serve it in small glasses. The dish may be garnished with preserved barberries, or strips of bright-coloured jelly; and a dish of custards should be served with it, or a jug of cream.
Method.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, then place them in a saucepan with the lemon peel and enough water to keep them from burning—just under 1/2 pint. Once they are tender, remove the peel, mash them into a pulp, let it cool, and fold it into the previously beaten egg whites, which should be whipped to a strong froth. Add the sifted sugar and keep whisking until the mixture is very stiff; then either pile it onto a glass dish or serve it in small glasses. You can garnish the dish with preserved barberries or strips of brightly colored jelly, and accompany it with a dish of custards or a jug of cream.
Time.—From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples.
Time.—Stew the apples for 30 to 40 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a moderate-sized glass dish.
Enough to fill a medium-sized glass dish.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
APPLE SOUFFLE.
1402. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395.
1402. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the zest of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, 4 tablespoons of apple marmalade No. 1395.
Mode.—Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well flavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swell over a slow fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Then crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; line the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into the oven to set; turn it out of the tin carefully, and be careful that the border of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the beaten yolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until the mixture thickens. Take it off the fire; to this add the whites of the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth; stir all together, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven for about 1/2 hour, or until the soufflé rises very light. It should be watched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it is taken from the oven.
Mode.—Heat the milk with the lemon peel until it’s well flavored; then strain it, add the rice, and let it swell gradually over low heat, adding enough sugar to sweeten it nicely. Next, mash the rice into a smooth paste with the back of a wooden spoon; line the bottom and sides of a round cake tin with it, and place it in the oven to set. Carefully turn it out of the tin, making sure the rice border is firm all around. Mix the marmalade with the beaten egg yolks and butter, stirring them over heat until the mixture thickens. Remove from heat; then add the egg whites, which should be beaten to a stiff froth; stir everything together and pour it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes or until the soufflé rises and is very light. Keep an eye on it, and serve immediately, or it will fall as soon as it comes out of the oven.
Time.—1/2 hour.
Time.—30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from July to March.
Available from July to March.
STEWED APPLES AND CUSTARD.
(A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Supper.)
(A nice dish for a kids' dinner.)
1403. INGREDIENTS.—7 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon or 4 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of custard No. 1423.
1403. INGREDIENTS.—7 medium apples, the peel of 1/2 lemon or 4 cloves, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of custard No. 1423.
Mode.—Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until they are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on a glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes, let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite 1/2 pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423; pour it round, but not over, the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table. A few almonds blanched and cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, would improve their appearance.—See coloured plate Q1.
Method.—Peel and core the apples without cutting them in half, and if possible, leave the stems on; boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; then add the apples along with the lemon peel or cloves, depending on which flavor you prefer, and simmer gently until they are tender, being careful not to let them fall apart. Carefully place them on a glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes, let it cool slightly, and then pour it over the apples. Prepare about 1/2 pint of custard using recipe No. 1423; pour it around, but not on, the apples once they are completely cool, and the dish is ready to serve. A few blanched almonds cut into strips and placed on the apples would enhance their appearance.—See colored plate Q1.
Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.
Time.—Stew the apples for 20 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient to fill a large glass dish.
Sufficient to fill a large glass dish.
Seasonable from July to March.
Available from July to March.
APPLE TRIFLE.
(A Supper Dish.)
(A Dinner Dish.)
1404. INGREDIENTS.—10 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 eggs, whipped cream.
1404. INGREDIENTS.—10 medium apples, the peel of 1/2 lemon, 6 oz. of powdered sugar, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of heavy cream, 2 eggs, whipped cream.
Mode.—Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and minced lemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the apples through a sieve; if they should not be quite sweet enough, add a little more sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thick layer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little sugar, over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it to reach the boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire; let it cool a little, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar, lemon-peel, &c., the same as for other trifles; heap it high over the custard, and the dish is ready for table. It may be garnished as fancy dictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c.
Mode.—Peel, core, and slice the apples thinly. Place them in a saucepan with 2 tablespoons of water, sugar, and minced lemon zest. Cook everything together until the apples are soft, then mash them through a sieve. If they aren't sweet enough, add a bit more sugar, and spread them at the bottom of the dish to create a thick layer. Mix the milk, cream, and eggs with a bit of sugar over low heat, letting it thicken without boiling. Once thickened, remove from heat and let it cool slightly, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar, lemon zest, etc., like you would for other desserts; pile it high on top of the custard, and the dish is ready to serve. Feel free to garnish as you like with bright apple jelly, citron slices, etc.
Time.—From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stir the custard over the fire.
Time.—30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stir the custard over the heat.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized trifle.
Enough for a moderate-sized trifle.
Seasonable from July to March.
Seasonal from July to March.
APRICOT CREAM.
1405. INGREDIENTS.—12 to 16 ripe apricots, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass.
1405. INGREDIENTS.—12 to 16 ripe apricots, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass.
Mode.—Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a syrup made with 1/4 lb. of sugar and 1/4 pint of water, until they form a thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the other 1/4 lb. of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks of eggs which have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into a jug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fire until it thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a sieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of water, and keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream with the apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient, set it on ice; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on the dish without any difficulty.
Mode.—Cut the apricots in half, remove the pits, and cook them in a syrup made with 1/4 lb. of sugar and 1/4 pint of water until they create a thin marmalade, then strain it through a sieve. Heat the milk with the other 1/4 lb. of sugar, let it cool slightly, and then mix in the well-beaten egg yolks; pour this mixture into a jug, place the jug in boiling water, and stir it continuously over the heat until it thickens, but make sure it doesn’t boil. Strain it through a sieve, add the isinglass that has been boiled with a small amount of water, and keep stirring until it’s nearly cold; then combine the cream with the apricots, stir well, pour it into an oiled mold, and, if possible, set it on ice; otherwise, place it in a very cool spot. It should come out on the plate without any trouble.
Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots.
Time.—Boil the apricots for 20 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, £3.30.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Enough to fill a quart mold.
Seasonable in August, September, and October.
In season in August, September, and October.
Note.—In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for them.
Note.—In winter, when fresh apricots aren’t available, a little jam can be used as a substitute.
FLANC OF APRICOTS, or Compote of Apricots in a Raised Crust.
FLANC OF APRICOTS, or Apricot Compote in a Raised Crust.
(Sweet Entremets.)
(Sweet Desserts.)
1406. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1212, from 9 to 12 good-sized apricots, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of sugar.
1406. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1212, from 9 to 12 good-sized apricots, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of sugar.
Mode.—Make a short crust by recipe No. 1212, and line a mould with it as directed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and simmer them in the syrup until tender; watch them carefully, and take them up the moment they are done, for fear they break. Arrange them neatly in the flanc or case; boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly, pour it over the fruit, and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches, &c., may be done in the same manner, as also currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but with the last-named fruits, a little currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement.
Mode.—Make a short crust using recipe No. 1212, and line a mold with it as instructed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; cut the apricots in half, remove the pits, and simmer them in the syrup until they're tender; keep an eye on them, and take them out as soon as they're done to avoid breaking. Arrange them neatly in the flan or tart shell; boil the syrup until it reduces to a jelly consistency, pour it over the fruit, and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, all types of plums, peaches, etc., can be prepared in the same way, as well as currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, etc.; for the latter fruits, adding a little currant juice will enhance the flavor.
Time.—Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes to simmer the apricots.
Time.—Total time: 1 hour to bake the flan, about 10 minutes to simmer the apricots.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish.
Enough for 1 dessert or side.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
In season in July, August, and September.
ARROWROOT BLANC-MANGE.
(An inexpensive Supper Dish.)
(An affordable dinner recipe.)
1407. INGREDIENTS.—4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of milk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste.
1407. INGREDIENTS.—4 heaping tablespoons of arrowroot, 1 1/2 pints of milk, 3 bay leaves or the peel of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with 1/2 pint of the milk; put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel, whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well flavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it all the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and when quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compôte of any kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy, stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improves the flavour of this sweet dish.
Mode.—Mix the arrowroot with 1/2 pint of milk to create a smooth batter. Heat the other pint of milk over the fire with either laurel leaves or lemon peel, based on your preference, and let it steep until it's fully flavored. Strain the milk and add it, while boiling, to the mixed arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar and let it boil, stirring constantly, until it thickens enough to come away from the saucepan. Grease a mold with pure salad oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and once it’s completely set, turn it out onto a dish and surround it with a compote of any kind of fruit or garnish it with jam. Adding a tablespoonful of brandy just before molding the blanc-mange greatly enhances the flavor of this dessert.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total, 30 minutes.
Average cost, 6d. without the garnishing.
Average cost, 6d. without the garnishing.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Good for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
BLANC-MANGE.
(A Supper Dish.)
(A Dinner Dish.)
1408. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of new milk, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1/2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 pint of cream.
1408. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of fresh milk, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, the peel of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of granulated sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1/2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 pint of cream.
[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE MOULD.]
[Illustration: Blancmange Mold.]
Mode.—Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-rind, and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire until the milk is well flavoured; add the almonds, which should be blanched and pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let the milk just boil up; strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, and stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold. Let it stand for a few minutes, then pour it into the mould, which should be previously oiled with the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold water. There will be a sediment at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into the mould, as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearance of the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer by using 1-1/2 pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in 1/2 pint of boiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by adding bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of the lemon-rind and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, or any favourite liqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour of this always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges of the blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it quickly over; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a smooth glossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently has not when it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as fancy dictates.
Mode.—Pour the milk into a saucepan along with the isinglass, lemon peel, and sugar, and let these ingredients sit by the fire until the milk is well flavored; add the almonds, which should be blanched and ground into a paste in a mortar, and bring the milk to just boiling; strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, and stir the mixture occasionally until it's nearly cold. Let it sit for a few minutes, then pour it into a mold that has been previously greased with the purest salad oil or dipped in cold water. There will be sediment at the bottom of the jug that must not be poured into the mold, as it would ruin the appearance of the blanc-mange when turned out. This blanc-mange can be made richer by using 1.5 pints of cream and dissolving the isinglass in 0.5 pint of boiling water. The flavor can also be varied significantly by adding bay leaves, laurel leaves, or vanilla extract instead of the lemon peel and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, or any favorite liqueur added in small amounts greatly enhances the flavor of this popular dish. To unmold it, gently loosen the edges of the blanc-mange from the mold, place a dish on top, and quickly flip it over; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange should have a smooth, glossy appearance when the mold is oiled, which it often doesn't have when just dipped in water. It can be garnished however you like.
Time.—About 1-1/2 hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the milk.
Time.—About 1.5 hours to soak the lemon zest and almonds in the milk.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 3d.
Average cost, with cream at £0.05 per pint, £0.16.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill a quart mold. Suitable at any time.
CHEAP BLANC-MANGE.
1409. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 laurel-leaves.
1409. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1/2 a lemon, 4 bay leaves.
[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE.]
[Illustration: BlanCMange.]
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gently until the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertain when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take them out, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn it out carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a compote of fruit.
Method.—Place all the ingredients in a lined saucepan and gently boil until the isinglass is dissolved; taste occasionally to check if it has enough flavor from the laurel leaves. Then, remove the leaves and continue stirring the mixture over the heat for about 10 minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and when it’s almost cold, pour it into a well-oiled mold, leaving out the sediment at the bottom. Carefully turn it out onto a dish and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a fruit compote.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour. Average cost, 8d.
Duration.—Total, 30 minutes. Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill a quart mold. Seasonable at any time.
BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS.
1410. INGREDIENTS.—Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of jam.
1410. INGREDIENTS.—Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4 tablespoons of jam.
Mode.—Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cut some slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of them with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices; slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or round pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10 minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve.
Mode.—Prepare a batter like the one for apple fritters No. 1393. Cut some slices of buttered bread, not too thick. Spread half of them with your preferred jam, then cover with the other slices. Gently press them together and cut them into square, long, or round shapes. Dip them in the batter and fry in hot lard for about 10 minutes. Drain them on a piece of blotting paper or cloth in front of the fire. Plate them, sprinkle with sifted sugar, and serve.
Time.—About 10 minutes.
Time.—Around 10 minutes.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Appropriate at any time.
TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT.
1411. INGREDIENTS.—2 calf's feet, 6 pints of water.
1411. INGREDIENTS.—2 calf's feet, 6 quarts of water.
[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]
[Illustration: JELLY MOLD.]
[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.]
[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.]
Mode.—The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair; slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6 oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm. Let it boil about 10 minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover it closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock is the foundation of all really good jellies, which may be varied in innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being firm when turned out, 1/2 oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are now frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of the principal materials employed; but, although they may look as nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate, having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly when made with gelatine.
Method.—The stock for jellies should always be made the day before you need it, as the liquid has time to cool, making it much easier and more effective to remove the fat when it has set. Get 2 nice calf's feet from the butcher: scald them to remove the hair; cut them in half, take out the fat between the claws, and wash the feet well in warm water. Put them in a stewpot with the appropriate amount of cold water, bring it to a boil gradually, and remove any scum that rises. Once well skimmed, let it boil gently for 6 or 7 hours or until the liquid is reduced by a little over half; then strain it through a sieve into a bowl and let it cool to set. As you strain the liquid, measure it to determine how much you have for the jelly, making adjustments for any sediment and fat on top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour in a bit of warm water to wash away any remaining fat, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth. Separate the jelly from the sediment, place it in a saucepan, and if you have about a quart, add 6 oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-beaten whites of 5 eggs, and stir these cold ingredients together; then place the saucepan on the stove, but do not stir the jelly once it starts warming. Allow it to boil for about 10 minutes after it starts to bubble, then add a teacupful of cold water; let it boil for 5 more minutes, then remove the saucepan, cover it tightly, and let it sit for half an hour near the heat. Dip the jelly bag in hot water, wring it out completely, and secure it onto a stand or the back of a chair near the heat to prevent the jelly from setting before it has drained through the bag. Place a bowl underneath to catch the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and if it's not clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock is the foundation of all truly good jellies, which can be customized in countless ways by coloring and flavoring with liqueurs and by molding it with fresh or preserved fruits. To ensure the jelly is firm when turned out, you might add 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass to the stock. Nowadays, substitutes for calf's feet are often used in making jellies, which reduce the cost and hassle of preparing this beloved dish; isinglass and gelatin are two of the main ingredients used; however, while they may look as nice as jellies made from good stock, they are never as delicate, often having an unpleasant flavor somewhat like glue, especially when made with gelatin.
Time.—About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify it,—1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered.
Time.—About 6 hours to simmer the feet for the stock; to clarify it,—15 minutes to boil, 30 minutes to sit covered in the saucepan.
Average cost.—Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d. each when veal is in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.
Average cost.—You can buy calf's feet for 6d. each when veal is in full season, but they cost more when they're hard to find.
Sufficient.—2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock.
Sufficient.—2 calf’s feet should yield 1 quart of stock.
Seasonable from March to October, but may be had all the year.
In season from March to October, but available all year round.
HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.—The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap.
HOW TO MAKE A JELLY BAG.—The thick flannel known as double-mill, used for ironing blankets, is the best material for a jelly bag: homemade ones are the only ones you can trust to thoroughly strain the jelly. Make sure the seam of the bag is stitched twice to prevent uneven filtering. The easiest way to use the bag is to tie it onto a hoop that matches the size of its opening; to do this, strings should be sewn around it at equal intervals. The jelly bag can be made any size, but one that is twelve or fourteen inches deep and seven or eight inches wide at the opening will be enough for regular use. The shape of a jelly bag resembles a fool's cap.
COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES.
(More Economical than Calf's Feet.)
(More Affordable than Calf's Feet.)
1412. INGREDIENTS.—2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water.
1412. INGREDIENTS.—2 cow heels, 3 quarts of water.
Mode.—Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled; split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises, and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity, and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz. of isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it is required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7 hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2 quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also the day before it is required.
Mode.—Get 2 heels that have only been scalded, not boiled; cut them in half and take out the fat between the claws. Rinse them well in warm water and place them in a saucepan with the same amount of cold water. Heat it gradually until it boils, and skim off any scum that appears. Let the heels simmer gently for 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquid is reduced by half. Strain it into a bowl, measuring the quantity, and set it aside to cool. Clarify it just like calf's-foot stock No. 1411, using about 1/2 oz. of isinglass for each quart along with the other ingredients. Make this stock a day ahead of when you need it. Two dozen shank bones from mutton, boiled for 6 or 7 hours, will give you a quart of strong, firm stock. They should be boiled in 2 quarts of water, which should also be reduced by half. Prepare this a day before you need it as well.
Time.—7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the shank-bones.
Time.—7 to 8 hours to boil the cow heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the shank bones.
Average cost, from 4d. to 6d. each.
Average cost, from 4 pence to 6 pence each.
Sufficient.—2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.
Sufficient.—2 cow hooves should yield 3 pints of stock.
Seasonable at any time.
Relevant at any time.
ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY.
(Substitutes for Calf's Feet.)
(Alternatives to Calf's Feet.)
1413. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water.
1413. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of isinglass or gelatin, 2 quarts of water.
Mode.—Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than 1/2 oz. of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.
Mode.—Place the isinglass or gelatin in a saucepan with the specified amount of cold water; quickly bring it to a boil, and let it boil vigorously until the liquid is reduced by half. Carefully skim off the foam as it appears, then strain it through a jelly bag, and it will be ready to use. If you don’t need it to be super clear, you can just strain it through a fine sieve instead of using a bag. About 1/2 oz. of isinglass is the right amount to use for a quart of strong calf's-foot stock, and just over 2 oz. for the same amount of fruit juice. Since isinglass varies greatly in quality and strength, it’s hard to provide exact measurements. The larger the mold, the firmer the jelly should be; and if there’s no ice, you’ll need to use more isinglass than if the mixture were frozen. This creates a base for various kinds of jellies that can be flavored in multiple ways.
Time.—1-1/2 hour.
Duration.—1.5 hours.
Sufficient, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized moulds.
Enough, with wine, syrup, fruit, etc., to fill two medium-sized molds.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
Note.—The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the bag.
Note.—The mixture, when boiled, should be completely clear, and can be mixed warm with wine, flavorings, fruits, etc., and then strained through the bag.
ISINGLASS.—The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy," and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the commoner sorts of gelatine,—for isinglass is classed amongst gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden.
ISINGLASS.—The best isinglass comes from Russia; some lower-quality types are sourced from North and South America and the East Indies. You can find different varieties from wholesale dealers in isinglass in London. When choosing isinglass for home use, pick the whitest one that has no bad smell and dissolves easily in water. The lower-quality types are used for clarifying beer and similar purposes. Isinglass is often mixed with other substances: to check its purity, take a few threads of the material, drop some into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In boiling water, the isinglass will dissolve, in cold water it will turn white and "cloudy," and in vinegar, it will swell up and become jelly-like. If the isinglass is mixed with gelatine (specifically, the more common types of gelatine—since isinglass is considered among gelatines, with isinglass being the purest and finest), in boiling water the gelatine will not dissolve as completely as the isinglass; in cold water, it becomes clear and jelly-like; and in vinegar, it will harden.
HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES.
1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside, put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished as taste dictates.
1414. Uncork the bottle and put it in a saucepan of hot water until the jelly becomes liquid. Taste it to see if it has enough flavor; if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly into molds that have been soaked in water, let it set, and then release it by placing the mold in hot water for a minute. Wipe the outside, place a dish on top, and quickly flip it over. The jelly should slide right out of the mold and be firm. You can garnish it however you like.
TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES.
1415. INGREDIENTS.—To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar; the white of 1 egg.
1415. INGREDIENTS.—For every quart of water, use 2 lbs. of granulated sugar; the white of 1 egg.
Mode.—Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire, and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises, strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it for use.
Mode.—Put the sugar and water in a saucepan; place it on the heat, and when the sugar has dissolved, add the egg white, whipped with a little water. Mix everything together thoroughly, and let it simmer very gently until all the foam rises to the top. Remove the foam as it forms, then strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a bowl, and set it aside for later use.
CALF'S-FEET JELLY.
1416. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5 eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.
1416. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of calf's-foot stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5 eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.
Mode.—Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Put it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed on the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, but do not stir it after it begins to warm. Throw in a teacupful of cold water, boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering, the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand, surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip out easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition being often spoiled by using the latter.
Mode.—Prepare the stock as described in recipe No. 1411, making sure to leave the sediment and remove all fat from the surface. Place it in a cold saucepan without clarifying it; add the remaining ingredients, and stir them well together before putting the saucepan on the heat. Then simmer the mixture gently for 15 minutes, but do not stir it once it starts to warm. Add a teacupful of cold water, boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of the heat for about 30 minutes, but do not let it boil again. While simmering, the head or scum can be carefully skimmed off as it rises; however, you must be particularly careful not to stir the jelly even a little after it heats up. Add the isinglass when the jelly starts to boil; this helps to clarify it and makes it firmer for unmolding. Soak a jelly bag in hot water; secure it to a stand or the back of a chair; place it near the heat with a basin underneath and pour the jelly through it. If it’s not perfectly clear the first time, repeat the process until you achieve the desired clarity. Soak the molds in water, drain them briefly, pour in the jelly, and place them in a cool area to set. If ice is available, surround the molds with it, and the jelly will set faster and be firmer when unmolded. In summer, it’s necessary to have ice to place the molds in, or the cook will likely be disappointed as the jellies may end up too liquid to unmold properly without using a lot of isinglass. When ready to serve, dip the molds in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, place a dish on top of the mold, turn it over quickly, and the jelly should slip out easily. It can also be served broken into square pieces and piled high in glasses. Earthenware molds are better than those made of pewter or tin for red jellies, as the color and transparency of the jelly can often be ruined by the latter.
[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]
[Illustration: JELLY MOLD.]
To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of calf's feet.
To make this jelly more cost-effective, you can substitute raisin wine for the sherry and brandy, and use stock made from cow heels instead of calf’s feet.
Time.—20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered.
Time.—20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 30 minutes to stand covered.
Average cost, reckoning the feet at 6d. each, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, assuming the feet are 6d. each, comes to 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill two 1-1/2-pint molds. Good at any time.
Note.—As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.
Note.—Since lemon juice can make the jelly cloudy if it's not strained properly, make sure it’s clear before mixing it with the other ingredients. Skip the brandy if the flavor is not preferred.
SHERRY.—There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there are various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour, and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh and fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years. Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments on wines do not fully confirm this opinion.
SHERRY.—There are different types of sherry, both pale and brown, and various qualities of each. Generally, sherry has an amber color and, when it’s good, has a lovely aromatic scent, with a hint of the pleasant bitterness found in peach kernels. When it's new, it tends to be harsh and fiery, needing to age in the wood for four or five years to mellow. Recently, sherry has become quite trendy in England because people think it has less acidity than other wines; however, some careful experiments on wines don’t completely back up this belief.
CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS.
Cannelons or Fried Puffs.
(Sweet Entremets.)
(Delicious Desserts.)
1417. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kind of preserve that may be preferred; hot lard.
1417. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of puff pastry No. 1205; apricot or any preferred kind of jam; hot lard.
Mode.—Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205; roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over twice; slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve. These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above.
Mode.—Cannelons made from thinly rolled puff pastry with jam inside, cut into long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very attractive and elegant dish. Prepare some good puff pastry using recipe No. 1205; roll it out very thin and cut it into equal pieces, about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long. Place a spoonful of jam on each piece, wet the edges with egg white, and fold the pastry over twice; gently press the edges together to prevent the jam from leaking during frying. Once all are prepared, fry them in hot lard until golden brown, allowing them to sit by the fire afterward to ensure the pastry is fully cooked. Drain them before the fire, place on a d'oyley, dust with sifted sugar, and serve. These cannelons are also delicious when made with fresh fruit instead of preserved, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants; simply lay the fruit on the pastry, sprinkle with plenty of powdered sugar, and fold and fry as described above.
Time.—About 10 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Duration.—About 10 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient,—1/2 lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.
Sufficient—1/2 lb. of pasta for a medium-sized dish of cannelloni.
Seasonable, with jam, at any time.
Seasonal, with jam, anytime.
CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.
1418. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick, clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2 dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry.
1418. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of slightly stale bread 1/2 inch thick, clarified butter, apple marmalade made using recipe No. 1395, with about 2 dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry.
[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.]
[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.]
Mode.—Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height of the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarified butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich); place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the mould. Brush the interior over with white of egg (this will assist to make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom; slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces; put a plate on the top, and bake the charlotte in a brisk oven, of a light colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top, and pour round it a little melted apricot jam.
Mode.—Cut a slice of bread that matches the shape of the bottom of a well-buttered, plain round mold, and cut a few strips that are the height of the mold and about 1-1/2 inches wide. Dip the bread in clarified butter (or spread it with cold butter if you prefer it not quite so rich); place the round piece at the bottom of the mold, and arrange the narrow strips up the sides, overlapping them slightly to prevent any juice from the apples from escaping, ensuring they stick firmly to the mold. Brush the interior with egg white (this helps make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made using recipe No. 1395, adding a bit of sherry, and cover it with another round piece of bread, also brushed with egg, just like the bottom piece. Gently press the bread down to help it stick to the other pieces; place a plate on top and bake the charlotte in a hot oven until it’s lightly cooked. Turn it out onto a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and pour a bit of melted apricot jam around it.
Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Time.—40 to 50 minutes. Average cost, £0.09.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. In season from July to March.
AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.
1419. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass of raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
1419. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of baking powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass of raisin wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 dessert spoons of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.
Mode.—Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder; moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the charlotte, and garnish it with pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eaten hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright jelly just before it is sent to table.
Mode.—Make a cake using flour, butter, sugar, and baking powder; mix in the egg and enough milk to get the right consistency, then bake it in a round pan. Once it’s cool, scoop out the center while keeping a good thickness all around the sides to keep it from breaking. Take some of the scooped-out pieces and cut them into neat slices; place them back into the cake and pour enough raisin wine over them, adding a little brandy if you like, to soak them thoroughly. Prepare some apple marmalade using recipe No. 1395; spread a layer of this over the soaked cake, then add a layer of cake and a layer of apples. Whip the cream until fluffy, blending in the sugar and lemon juice; pile it on top of the charlotte, and decorate it with pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but it can also be enjoyed hot by skipping the cream and just topping it with bright jelly right before serving.
Time.—1 hour to bake the cake. Average cost, 2s.
Time.—1 hour to bake the cake. Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Available from July to March.
A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE.
1420. INGREDIENTS.—9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice, moist sugar to taste.
1420. INGREDIENTS.—9 slices of buttered bread, about 6 medium-sized apples, 1 tablespoon of minced lemon peel, 2 tablespoons of juice, and sugar to taste.
Mode.—Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread and butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than 3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.
Mode.—Butter a pie dish; place a layer of sliced bread and butter, without the crust, at the bottom; then add a layer of apples, peeled, cored, and cut into thin slices; sprinkle a bit of lemon peel and juice over these, and sweeten with brown sugar. Add another layer of bread and butter, followed by another layer of apples, continuing this way until the dish is full; then cover it with the apple peels to keep the top from browning or burning; bake in a hot oven for just over 45 minutes; turn the charlotte onto a dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 9d.
Duration: 45 minutes. Average cost: 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. In season from July to March.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE.
(An Elegant Sweet Entremets.)
(A Fancy Sweet Dessert.)
1421. INGREDIENTS.—About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream, flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.
1421. INGREDIENTS.—About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream, flavoring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoon of powdered sugar, 1/2 oz. of gelatin.
Mode.—Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg, and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg. Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1 tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would nicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuits in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out, there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention is required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent the charlotte from coming away properly.
Mode.—Get about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladyfingers, as they’re sometimes called; brush the edges with egg white and line the bottom of a plain round mold, arranging them in a star shape or rosette. Stand them upright all around the edge, placing them close enough so the egg white holds them together, then put this case in the oven for about 5 minutes just to dry the egg. Whisk the cream until stiff with sugar, flavoring, and melted gelatin; fill the charlotte with it and cover with a slice of sponge cake cut to match the shape of the mold. Place it in ice and leave it there until you're ready to serve; then turn it out onto a plate, remove the mold, and serve. 1 tablespoon of liqueur or 4 tablespoons of wine would nicely flavor this amount of cream. For arranging the biscuits in the mold, cut them to the required shape so they fit well, leveling them with the top of the mold so there’s something solid to rest on when turned out. Be very careful when turning out this dish to avoid breaking the cream; the edges of the biscuits should have just a small amount of egg brushed over them, or they’ll stick to the mold and prevent the charlotte from coming out properly.
Time.—5 minutes in the oven.
5 minutes in the oven.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 2 shillings.
Sufficient for 1 charlotte. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 1 charlotte. Good at any time.
CREAM A LA VALOIS.
1422. INGREDIENTS.—4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass.
1422. INGREDIENTS.—4 sponge cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass.
Mode.—Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with the lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiled mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling the mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.
Mode.—Slice the sponge cakes into thin pieces; stack two together with some preserve in between, and drizzle a little sherry mixed with a bit of brandy over them. Sweeten and flavor the cream with lemon juice and sherry; add the gelatin, which should be dissolved in a bit of water, and beat the cream thoroughly. Spoon some into a greased mold; arrange the cake pieces in the cream; then fill the mold with the rest. Let it chill, and then turn it out onto a plate. Greasing the mold gives the cream a much smoother finish and makes it easier to release than if it's just rinsed with cold water.
Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, £3.30.
Sufficient to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a 1-1/2 pint mold. Good at any time.
BOILED CUSTARDS.
1423. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
1423. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of granulated sugar, 3 bay leaves, or the peel of 4 lemons, or a few drops of vanilla extract, 1 tablespoon of brandy.
[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.]
[CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.]
Mode.—Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and strain this mixture into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire; keep stirring the custard one way until it thickens; but on no account allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better, ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting the whites.
Method.—Pour the milk into a lined saucepan along with the sugar and your choice of flavorings (lemon zest adds a wonderful flavor to custards), and let the milk infuse by the fire until it’s well flavored. Bring it just to a boil, then strain it into a bowl; whisk the eggs thoroughly, and when the milk has cooled slightly, mix in the eggs, and strain this mixture into a jug. Place the jug in a pot of boiling water on the stove; keep stirring the custard in one direction until it thickens; but do not let it come to a boil, as it will curdle and become lumpy. Remove it from the heat, stir in the brandy, and once it's well combined with the custard, pour it into glasses, filling them a little over three-quarters full; grate a bit of nutmeg on top, and the dish is ready to serve. To enhance the appearance and taste of the custard, use duck eggs when available; they significantly improve the flavor and richness, and you need fewer of them than regular eggs—just 4 duck eggs per pint of milk makes a delicious custard. For an extra rich and tasty custard, substitute cream for the milk, using double the number of yolks as mentioned, and omit the whites.
Time. 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the custard. Average cost, 8d.
Time: 30 minutes to infuse the lemon rind, about 10 minutes to stir the custard. Average cost: 8d.
Sufficient to fill 8 custard-glasses. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill 8 custard glasses. Good at any time.
GINGER APPLES.
(A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish.)
(A nice dinner or dessert dish.)
1424. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3 lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.
1424. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 oz. of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3 lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.
Mode.—Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together very gently until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or preserved ginger.
Method.—Crush the ginger, place it in a small jar, pour in enough whiskey to cover it, and let it sit for 3 days. Then slice the apples thinly after peeling and coring them; add the sugar and strained lemon juice, and gently simmer everything together very slowly until the apples are translucent but not mushy. Serve cold and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon peel or preserved ginger.
Time.—3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the apples very gently.
Time.—3 days to soak the ginger; about 45 minutes to simmer the apples very gently.
Average cost, 2s, 6d.
Average cost, 2s 6d.
Sufficient for 3 dishes. Seasonable from July to March.
Enough for 3 dishes. Available from July to March.
FRENCH PANCAKES.
1425. INGREDIENTS.—2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2 oz. of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk.
1425. INGREDIENTS.—2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2 oz. of flour, 1/2 pint of fresh milk.
Mode.—Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of preserve or marmalade between each.
Method.—Whisk the eggs thoroughly and place them in a bowl with the butter, which should be softened to a creamy texture; mix in the sugar and flour, and once these ingredients are well combined, add the milk; continue stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on greased plates and bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a sliced lemon and powdered sugar, or stack the pancakes high on a plate with a layer of jam or marmalade between each.
Time.—20 minutes. Average cost, 7d.
Duration.—20 minutes. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 3 or 4 people. Good at any time.
DUTCH FLUMMERY.
1426. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste.
1426. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the peel and juice of 1 lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or raisin wine; sifted sugar to taste.
Mode.—Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan, and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way until it thickens; but take care that it does not boil. Strain it into a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish: it is better if made the day before it is required for table.
Mode.—Put the water, isinglass, and lemon peel into a lined saucepan and gently simmer until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a bowl, stir in the well-beaten eggs, the strained lemon juice, and the wine; sweeten to taste with powdered sugar, mix everything well, pour it into a jug, place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the heat, and keep stirring it in one direction until it thickens; but make sure it doesn’t boil. Strain it into a mold that has been greased or soaked in water for a short time, and put it in a cool place to set. Adding a tablespoon of brandy right before pouring it into the mold enhances the flavor of this dish: it’s better if prepared the day before it’s needed at the table.
Time.—1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir the mixture over the fire.
Time.—15 minutes to simmer the isinglass; about 15 minutes to stir the mixture over the heat.
Average cost, 4s. 6d., if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine.
Average cost, £0.22, if made with sherry; less with raisin wine.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a quart mold. Good at any time.
PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people. The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the London dealers.
PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown ones. The brown variety gets its color from adding some inexpensive must or wine that has been boiled until it turns a deep brown. A while back, pale sherries were favored in England because they were thought to be the purest; however, many people now prefer the brown ones. The lower quality sherries sent to England are often blended with a cheap, light wine called Moguer and boosted with brandy during production; unfortunately, they are often tampered with by dealers in London.
CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.
1427. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. of the best chocolate.
1427. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 3 teaspoons of powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of flour, 3 oz. of high-quality chocolate.
Mode.—Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these ingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the top of the soufflé, and send it immediately to table. The proper appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander over the soufflé until it is placed on the table. If allowed to stand after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls almost immediately.
Method.—Crack the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and place them in different bowls; add the sugar, flour, and finely grated chocolate to the yolks, and stir these ingredients for 5 minutes. Then whisk the egg whites in the other bowl until they are stiff, and when firm, gently fold them into the yolks until the mixture is smooth and light. Grease a round cake pan, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Wrap a white napkin around the pan, sprinkle sifted sugar on top of the soufflé, and serve it immediately. The success of this dish relies entirely on how quickly it is served, and some cooks hold a salamander over the soufflé to maintain its lightness until it’s at the table. If it stands after coming out of the oven, it will be ruined, as it falls almost instantly.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized soufflé. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for a medium-sized soufflé. Good at any time.
DARIOLES A LA VANILLE.
(Sweet Entremets.)
(Delicious Desserts.)
1428. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring of essence of vanilla.
1428. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of powdered sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff pastry, flavoring of vanilla extract.
Mode.—Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter, which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish, without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon, cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla.
Mode.—Mix the flour into a smooth batter with the milk; stir in the cream, sugar, well-whisked eggs, and butter that has been beaten to a creamy consistency. Add some vanilla essence, drop by drop, until the mixture is well flavored; line some dariole molds with puff pastry, fill them three-quarters full with the batter, and bake in a good oven for 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the molds onto a dish without breaking them; sprinkle with sifted sugar, and serve. You can change the flavor of the darioles by replacing the vanilla with lemon, cinnamon, or almonds.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Time.—25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, £0.08.
Sufficient to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill 6 or 7 dariole molds. Good at any time.
CURRANT FRITTERS.
1429. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, sugar to taste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified dripping.
1429. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoons of flour, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoons of boiled rice, 3 tablespoons of currants, sugar to taste, a tiny bit of grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified fat.
Mode.—Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir these ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice, currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, if not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in small quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry the fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece of blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strew over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to table with them.
Mode.—Pour the milk into a bowl with the flour, which should first be mixed into a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir these ingredients together; add the well-beaten eggs, the rice, currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and if it’s not thick enough, add a bit more cooked rice; drop it in small portions into a pan of boiling lard or clarified fat; fry the fritters until they're a nice brown, and when they’re done, drain them on a piece of paper towel by the fire. Stack them on a white doily, sprinkle with sifted sugar, and serve them hot. Bring a sliced lemon to the table with them.
Time.—From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.
Time.—Fry the fritters for 8 to 10 minutes.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 people. Appropriate at any time.
CHOCOLATE CREAM.
1430. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pint of cream, 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs.
1430. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pints of cream, 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs.
[Illustration: CREAM-MOULD.]
[Illustration: CREAM MOLD.]
Mode.—Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir these ingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in a saucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Strain the cream through a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other 1/2 pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, and pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table.
Method.—Whisk the egg yolks thoroughly; place them in a bowl along with the grated chocolate, sugar, and 1 pint of cream; mix these ingredients together well, then pour the mixture into a jug and set the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; stir in one direction until the mixture thickens, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Strain the cream through a sieve into a bowl; mix in the isinglass and the other 1/2 pint of cream, which should be whipped until fluffy; blend everything together well, and pour it into a mold that has been lightly greased with the purest salad oil, and, if possible, place it on ice until ready to serve.
Time.—About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire.
Time.—Stir the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes.
Average cost, 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. per pint.
Average cost, £0.22, with cream at £0.05 per pint.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a quart mold. Good at any time.
GENEVA WAFERS.
1431. INGREDIENTS.—2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of pounded sugar.
1431. INGREDIENTS.—2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to them the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted sugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet, and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space between each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when half done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread or piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven until crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve in the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very pretty and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and very easily made.
Mode.—Whisk the eggs well and pour them into a bowl. Stir in the butter, which should be creamed. Gradually add the flour and sifted sugar, then mix everything together thoroughly. Grease a baking sheet and drop a teaspoonful of the mixture onto it, leaving space between each. Bake in a cool oven; keep an eye on the pieces, and when they’re halfway done, roll them up like wafers. Insert a small piece of bread or wood to hold their shape. Put them back in the oven until they’re crispy. Before serving, take out the bread, add a spoonful of preserves in the widest end, and fill it up with whipped cream. This makes a very attractive and decorative dish for the supper table, and it’s really nice and easy to make.
Time.—Altogether 20 to 25 minutes.
Duration.—Total 20 to 25 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d.
Average cost, not including the preserve and cream, 7d.
Sufficient for a nice-sized dish. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Good at any time.
GINGER CREAM.
1432. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of preserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1 oz. of isinglass.
1432. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of preserved ginger, 2 dessert spoons of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1 oz. of isinglass.
Mode.—Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup, the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients well together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold, sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished with slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.
Mode.—Finely slice the ginger and put it in a bowl with the syrup, well-beaten egg yolks, and cream. Mix these ingredients thoroughly and stir them over the heat for about 10 minutes, or until the mixture thickens. Then, remove it from the heat, whisk until it's nearly cold, sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. You can garnish it with slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.
Time.—About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire.
Time.—About 10 minutes to stir the cream on the stove.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 3 shillings 6 pence.
Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for a decent-sized dish. Good at any time.
PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots, fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.
PRESERVED GINGER originates from the West Indies. It's made by boiling the roots when they are green and full of sap, peeling them in cold water, and placing them in jars with a rich syrup; this is how we get them. It should be selected for its bright yellow color and slight transparency: anything that's dark-colored, fibrous, or stringy is not good. Ginger roots suitable for preserving, and similar in size to the West Indian variety, have been grown in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.
TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY FOOL.
1433. INGREDIENTS.—Green gooseberries; to every pint of pulp add 1 pint of milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste.
1433. INGREDIENTS.—Green gooseberries; for every pint of pulp, add 1 pint of milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste.
Mode.—Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into a jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion of milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture is sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; and in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually to these: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a very old-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and, if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children.
Mode.—Trim the tops and bottoms off the gooseberries; place them in a jar, along with 2 tablespoons of water and some good moist sugar; put this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit is soft enough to mash. Once it’s soft enough, mash it into a pulp, strain this pulp through a colander, and mix in the same amount of milk for every pint, or use equal parts milk and cream. Check if the mixture is sweet enough, and add plenty of sugar, or it won't be tasty; and when combining the milk and gooseberries, add the milk very gradually. Serve it in a glass dish or in small glasses. This, although a very traditional and simple dish, is quite delicious when made well, and if sweetened properly, makes a great treat for kids.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour. Average cost, 6d. per pint, with milk.
Time.—From 45 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, 6p. per pint, with milk.
Sufficient.—A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6 children.
Sufficient.—A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry puree for 5 or 6 kids.
Seasonable in May and June.
In season in May and June.
GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.
1434. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream.
1434. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream.
Mode.—Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancy dictates.
Method.—Place the gooseberries in a jar with enough moist sugar to sweeten them, and boil them until they turn into a pulp. Spread this pulp at the bottom of a trifle dish; pour a pint of custard made from recipe No. 1423 over it, and once it’s cold, top with whipped cream. The cream should be whipped the day before you plan to serve it, as it will be firmer and more solid that way. You can garnish the dish however you like.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to boil the gooseberries.
Time.—About 45 minutes to boil the gooseberries.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s 6d.
Sufficient for 1 trifle. Seasonable in May and June.
Sufficient for 1 dessert. In season in May and June.
INDIAN FRITTERS.
1435. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam.
1435. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoons of flour, boiling water, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified fat, jam.
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient boiling water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and beat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to cool, and then break into it (without beating them at first) the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have ready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in at a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly arrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great favourite.
Method.—Put the flour in a bowl and pour enough boiling water over it to create a stiff paste, making sure to stir and beat well to avoid lumps. Let it cool for a bit, then break in the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2 (without beating them first), and stir and beat everything together. Have some boiling lard or butter ready; drop a dessert spoonful of batter at a time and fry the fritters until they're a light brown. They should puff up to almost look like balls. Serve them on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade placed between each fritter. This is a great dish to quickly add to dinner if an unexpected guest arrives, as it’s easy and quick to make, and it’s always a big hit.
Time.—From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters.
Time.—Fry the fritters for 5 to 8 minutes.
Average cost, exclusive of the jam, 5d.
Average cost, not including the jam, 5d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
INDIAN TRIFLE.
1436. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugar to taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/2 pint of custard.
1436. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugar to taste, 5 heaping tablespoons of rice flour, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/2 pint of custard.
Mode.—Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well flavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the mixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool a little, and pour it into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star, or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, and fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds into strips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of brightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.
Mode.—Boil the milk and lemon peel together until the milk is nicely flavored; remove the lemon peel and stir in the rice flour, which should first be mixed with cold milk, and add enough sugar to sweeten it well. Cook gently for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly; take it off the heat, let it cool a little, and pour it into a glass dish. Once it's cold, cut the rice into the shape of a star or any other shape you like; remove the excess rice and fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and slice the almonds into strips; arrange them on top of the trifle, and decorate it with pieces of brightly colored jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.
Time.—1/4 hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added.
Time.—15 minutes to simmer the milk, plus 5 minutes after adding the rice.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 1 trifle.
Enough for 1 trifle.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonable anytime.
[Illustration: THE CITRON.]
[Illustration: THE CITRON.]
THE CITRON.—The citron belongs to the same species as the lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed the Forbidden Fruit.
THE CITRON.—The citron is a variety of the lemon, with only a slight difference between them. It’s larger and less juicy but more acidic. With a bit of artificial heat, the citron can reach the same level of quality in England as it does in Spain and Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches long. The tree has thorns. The juice makes a great lemonade when mixed with sugar and water; its applications in punch, negus, and medicine are well-known. The rind is very thick, and when candied with sugar, it becomes a delicious treat. Several varieties are grown in England, one of which is called the Forbidden Fruit.
ITALIAN CREAM.
1437. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, 1 oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs.
1437. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 4 pints of cream, sugar to taste, 1 oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs.
Mode.—Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten, and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil. Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass, which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice if at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste may dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into small glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred.
Mode.—Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, add sugar to sweeten, and the lemon zest. Boil until the milk is well flavored, then strain it into a bowl and add the beaten egg yolks. Pour this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water on the stove, and stir until it thickens, but don't let it boil. Remove the cream from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and melted isinglass, and whip well; pour into a mold, chill it in ice if available, and when set, turn it out onto a plate, garnishing as desired. If you prefer, the mixture can be whipped and strained, then served in small glasses.
Time.—From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.
Time.—Stir the mixture in the jug for 5 to 8 minutes.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, £0.12.5.
Sufficient to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a 1.5-pint mold. Suitable at any time.
THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN.
(A pretty Supper Dish.)
(A lovely dinner dish.)
1438. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam.
1438. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4 pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam.
Mode.—Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix them and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is well beaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; but it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover it with jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dish is served cold.
Method.—Beat the egg whites and yolks separately; then mix them together and beat again, adding a few thin slices of citron, cream, and enough powdered sugar to sweeten it well. Once the mixture is thoroughly beaten, pour it into a buttered pan and cook it like a pancake, but it should be three times the thickness of a regular pancake. Top it with jam and decorate with slices of citron and holly leaves. This dish is served cold.
Time.—About 10 minutes to fry the mixture.
Time.—About 10 minutes to cook the mixture.
Average cost, with the jam, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, including the jam, £0.07.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 3 or 4 people. Appropriate at any time.
JAUNEMANGE.
1439. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 6 eggs.
1439. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 6 eggs.
Mode.—Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture one way until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil; then take it off the fire, and keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm.
Mode.—Put the isinglass, water, and lemon peel into a saucepan, and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; then add the strained lemon juice, the wine, and enough white sugar to sweeten everything nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add the well-beaten egg yolks; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture one way until it thickens, but do not let it boil; then take it off the heat and keep stirring until it's nearly cold. Pour it into a mold, leaving out the sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it sit until completely firm.
Time.—1/4 hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill a quart mold. Available at any time.
JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE DE FRUITS.
Jelly shaped with fresh fruit, or fruit salad.
1440. INGREDIENTS.—Rather more than 1-1/2 pint of jelly, a few nice strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh fruit that may be in season.
1440. INGREDIENTS.—Slightly more than 1-1/2 pints of jelly, a few nice strawberries, red or white currants, raspberries, or any fresh fruit that’s in season.
Mode.—Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould, recollecting; that it will be reversed when turned out; then pour in some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set, put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the jelly be very clear, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be substituted for the fruit.
Method.—Prepare the jelly using the proportions mentioned above, ensuring it is very clear and somewhat sweet, as the raw fruit will need extra sugar. Choose ripe, attractive fruit; remove the stalks, unless using currants, which should be left as they are. Start by adding a small amount of jelly at the bottom of the mold, allowing it to set; then arrange the fruit along the sides of the mold, remembering that it will be inverted when taken out; next, pour in some additional jelly to help the fruit stick, and once that layer is set, add another layer of fruit and jelly until the mold is full. If possible, chill it in ice until you’re ready to serve; then wring a cloth in boiling water, wrap it around the mold for a minute, and carefully invert the jelly. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, etc., taste better if they are cooked in a bit of clear syrup before being added to the jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants should be used raw. In winter, when fresh fruits aren't available, you can make a lovely jelly with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these look beautiful in a bright, clear jelly; however, if the jelly isn’t very clear, the dish's appeal will be diminished. You can garnish it with the same fruit used in the jelly; for example, a jelly with strawberries could have some of the same fruit creatively arranged in the center, or you could substitute a bit of whipped cream for the fruit.
[Illustration: JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES.]
[Illustration: JELLY WITH CHERRIES.]
Time.—One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place, before another layer is added. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—One layer of jelly should stay in a very cool place for 2 hours before adding another layer. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient, with fruit, to fill a quart mould.
Sufficient, with fruit, to fill a quart mold.
Seasonable, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any time.
In season, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried fruit, available year-round.
JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.
1441. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416, a few drops of prepared cochineal.
1441. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of calf's-foot jelly No. 1416, a few drops of prepared cochineal.
[Illustration: JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.]
[Illustration: TWO-COLOR JELLY.]
Mode.—Make 1-1/2 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies, and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made, in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate S1.)
Mode.—Make 1-1/2 pints of jelly using recipe No. 1416, or for a more economical option, use clarified syrup and gelatin, flavoring it however you like. Color half of the jelly with a few drops of prepared cochineal and keep the other half as pale as possible. Prepare a mold that’s well wetted all over; pour in a small amount of the red jelly and let it set. Once it’s firm, pour the same amount of the pale jelly on top and let it set again. Continue this process until the mold is full, making sure to let each jelly set before adding the next, or the colors will mix together. When you turn it out, the jelly should have a striped look. For variety, you can fill half the mold with one of the jellies at once and, once it’s firm, fill the other half with the other jelly. This method creates a very nice effect and is quicker than pouring small amounts into the mold. Blancmange and red jelly, or blancmange and raspberry cream, molded in this way, also look great. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch thick, and each layer should be completely set before adding another. It’s common to serve half a mold of blancmange and half a mold of jelly in the same way. You can also create some lovely dishes using leftover jellies or blancmanges from the day before; just melt them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water, then mold them according to the instructions above. (See colored plate S1.)
Time.—3/4 hour to make the jelly.
Time.—45 minutes to make the jelly.
Average cost, with calf's-feet jelly, 2s.; with gelatine and syrup, more economical.
Average cost, with calf's-foot jelly, 2 shillings; with gelatin and syrup, more affordable.
Sufficient to fill 1-1/2 pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill a 1-1/2 pint mold. Good at any time.
Note.—In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.
Note.—When making the jelly, use a very light sherry for flavoring, or the color will be too dark to contrast well with the red jelly.
LEMON BLANCMANGE.
1442. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of ground rice, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of fresh butter, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 2, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.
1442. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of ground rice, 6 oz. of powdered sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of fresh butter, the zest of 1 lemon, the juice of 2 lemons, and 1/2 oz. of gelatin.
[Illustration: BLANCMANGE MOULD.]
[Illustration: Blancmange Mold.]
Mode.—Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and 1/2 pint of the milk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of the milk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and 3 oz. of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is stiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl where the custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with the rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the fire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into the basin, adding 3 oz. more of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the lemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixture into a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould in a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that have rich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather a larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed.
Mode.—Make a custard using the egg yolks and 1/2 pint of milk. Once it's done, pour it into a bowl. In another saucepan, add half of the remaining milk along with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon peel, and 3 oz. of sugar. Bring these ingredients to a boil, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens. When it's ready, pour it into the bowl with the custard and mix them well. Add the gelatine to the rest of the milk in a saucepan and let it sit by the fire to dissolve. Boil it for a minute or two, then stir it carefully into the bowl, adding another 3 oz. of powdered sugar. Once it cools, mix in the strained lemon juice and pour the mixture into a well-oiled mold, discarding the lemon peel. Place the mold in a pan of cold water until it's time to serve. Use eggs with rich, yellow yolks; if the weather is very warm, use a bit more gelatine.
Time.—Altogether, 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration.—Total, 1 hour. Average cost, £1.50.
Sufficient to fill 2 small moulds. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill 2 small molds. Good at any time.
LEMON CREAM.
1443. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass.
1443. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass.
[Illustration: LEMON-CREAM MOULD.]
[Illustration: LEMON CREAM MOLD.]
Mode.—Put the cream into a lined saucepan with the sugar, lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about 10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, add the yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into a saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil; take it off the fire, and keep stirring it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, gradually pour on it the cream, and stir it well until the juice is well mixed with it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let it remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edges with a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it over quickly, and the cream should easily slip away.
Mode.—Put the cream into a lined saucepan with the sugar, lemon peel, and isinglass, and simmer over a low heat for about 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Strain the cream into a jug, add the well-beaten egg yolks, and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture in one direction until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil; remove it from the heat and keep stirring until it's nearly cold. Strain the lemon juice into a bowl, gradually pour the cream over it, and stir well until the juice is fully mixed in. Prepare a well-oiled mold, pour the cream into it, and let it sit until completely set. When ready to serve, loosen the edges with a small blunt knife, place a dish on top of the mold, turn it over quickly, and the cream should slide out easily.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over the fire in the jug.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the cream; around 10 minutes to stir it over the heat in the jug.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, and the best isinglass, 2 shillings and 6 pence.
Sufficient to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a 1-1/2-pint mold. Suitable at any time.
ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM.
1444. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs.
1444. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs.
Mode.—Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lump sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stir briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keep stirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, and let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added to the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is put in.
Mode.—Pour the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which should be finely crushed in a mortar, along with the gelatin, lemon zest, and sugar. Boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat the egg yolks, then strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the mixture back and forth a few times until it’s nearly cool. Next, stir in the strained lemon juice quickly, and keep stirring until the cream is almost cold. Pour it into an oiled mold and let it set completely. Do not add the lemon juice to the cream while it’s warm, and make sure to stir well after adding it.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the milk. Average cost, 2s. 5d.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the milk. Average cost, £0.12.
Sufficient to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill two 1-1/2-pint molds. Suitable at any time.
LEMON CREAMS.
(Very good.)
(Very good.)
1445. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses of sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste.
1445. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses of sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with the cream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool and delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting the almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry.
Mode.—Blanch and chop the almonds, then place them in a jug with the cream. In another jug, combine the sherry, lemon zest, strained juice, and enough powdered sugar to sweeten everything nicely. Quickly pour from one jug to the other until the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it into jelly glasses, leaving out the lemon zest. This is a very refreshing and tasty dessert for summer, and you can make it lighter by skipping the almonds and using orange or raisin wine instead of sherry.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total: 30 minutes.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 3 shillings.
Sufficient to fill 12 glasses. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill 12 glasses. Seasonable at any time.
LEMON CREAMS OF CUSTARDS.
1446. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, the rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs.
1446. INGREDIENTS.—5 oz. of granulated sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, the zest of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs.
Mode.—Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:—Dissolve the sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar, rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain the lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; stir this one way over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, or on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar and lemon, it should stand covered for about 1/2 hour before the eggs are added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted.
Method.—Make a quart of lemonade like this: Dissolve the sugar in boiling water, having first rubbed some of the sugar onto the lemon rind, and then add the strained juice. Strain the lemonade into a saucepan and add the beaten egg yolks; stir this in one direction over the heat until the mixture thickens, but don’t let it boil, and serve it in custard glasses or on a glass dish. After pouring the boiling water over the sugar and lemon, let it sit covered for about half an hour before adding the eggs, so the flavor of the rind can infuse.
Time.—1/2 hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the custard over the fire.
Time.—30 minutes to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the custard on the stove.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill 12 to 14 custard cups. Appropriate at any time.
LEMON JELLY.
1447. INGREDIENTS.—6 lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water, 1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry.
1447. INGREDIENTS.—6 lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water, 1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry.
Mode.—Peel 3 of the lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water on the rind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2 pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20 minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion of the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, add the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that has been wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where let it remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juice to the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as, if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jelly thick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, it answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; for instance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above, would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made with calf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint of stock.
Mode.—Peel 3 lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water over the rind, and let it steep for 30 minutes; combine the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2 pint of water in a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20 minutes; then add the strained lemon juice, the strained lemon rind infusion, and bring everything to a boil; skim well, add the wine, and strain the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mold that has been wet or soaked in water; place it on ice, if possible, and let it sit until ready to serve. Before adding the lemon juice to the other ingredients, make sure it is well strained, as failing to do so can make the jelly thick and cloudy. Since this jelly is very light and almost colorless, it works well for layering with a jelly of any bright color; for example, half a jelly that is bright red and the other half made from this recipe would look great. Lemon jelly can also be made with calf’s-foot stock, using the juice of 3 lemons for every pint of stock.
Time.—Altogether, 1 hour.
Time.—Total duration: 1 hour.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
Sufficient to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a 1-1/2-pint mold. Good at any time.
LEMON SPONGE.
1448. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of isinglass, 1-3/4 pint of water, 3/4 lb. of pounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3 eggs.
1448. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of gelatin, 1-3/4 pints of water, 3/4 lb. of powdered sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the zest of 1, the whites of 3 eggs.
Mode.—Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan, and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15 minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins to stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk the mixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has been previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn it out, and garnish it according to taste.
Method.—Dissolve the gelatin in the water, strain it into a saucepan, and add the sugar, lemon zest, and juice. Boil everything for 10 to 15 minutes; strain it again and let it sit until it cools and starts to thicken. Whip the egg whites, combine them with the mixture, and whisk until it's completely white; pour it into a mold that has been lightly wet, and let it sit until fully set; then unmold it and decorate it to your liking.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, with the best isinglass, 17.5 pence.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a quart mold. Good at any time.
LIQUEUR JELLY.
1449. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. of isinglass, 1-1/2 pint of water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur.
1449. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of granulated sugar, 2 oz. of gelatin, 1-1/2 pints of water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur.
[Illustration: OVAL JELLY-MOULD.]
[Illustration: Oval Jelly Mold.]
Mode.—Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum remaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil the isinglass with the other 1/2 pint of water, and skim it carefully in the same manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarified isinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to the boiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into a mould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mould in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a knife round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for this jelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually prepared as directed above.
Mode.—Combine the sugar with 1 pint of water in a saucepan, and gently heat it by the fire until no scum is left, removing any that rises promptly. Boil the isinglass with the remaining 1/2 pint of water, and skim it in the same way. Strain the lemon juice and mix it, along with the clarified isinglass, into the syrup; then add the liqueur and bring everything to a boil. Let the saucepan sit covered by the fire for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, place it in a mold, and set the mold in ice until ready to serve. Dip the mold in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by running a knife around the edges, and carefully turn it out onto a dish. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçao, brandy, or any kind of liqueur works for this jelly, and when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually prepared as described above.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the sugar and water.
Time.—Boil the sugar and water for 10 minutes.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill a quart mold. Appropriate at any time.
A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI.
1450. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of lump sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423.
1450. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1-1/2 pints of milk, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423.
Mode.—Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar; bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break. The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should be firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dry away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more. Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, and pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg, and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron.
Method.—Pour the milk into a saucepan along with the lemon peel and sugar; heat it until it reaches a boil, then add the macaroni and let it gently cook over low heat, making sure it doesn’t break apart. The shape should be fully intact; it should be tender yet firm, not soft, and no pieces should start to dissolve. If the milk evaporates before the macaroni is fully cooked, add a little more milk. Prepare a custard using recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a plate and pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate a bit of nutmeg on top, and when it's cool, decorate the dish with slices of candied citron.
Time.—From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni.
Time.—Allow 40 to 50 minutes to cook the macaroni.
Average cost, with the custard, 1s.
Average cost, with the custard, 1 shilling.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
MERINGUES.
1451. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.
1451. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.
[Illustration: MERINGUES.]
[Illustration: Meringues.]
Mode.—Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a wooden spoon, stir in quickly the pounded sugar; and have some boards thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue. Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down, and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts, and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be; but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six weeks.
Mode.—Whip the egg whites until they're stiff, then quickly stir in the powdered sugar with a wooden spoon. Use some thick boards to put in the oven to stop the bottoms of the meringues from getting too dark. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches wide and place them on the board. Drop a tablespoonful of the mixture onto the paper, making sure all the meringues are the same size. Shape the meringues like eggs as you drop them, keeping them about 2 inches apart on the paper. Sprinkle some sifted sugar over them and bake in a moderate oven for 30 minutes. As soon as they start to color, take them out of the oven; grab each slip of paper by both ends and gently flip it onto the table, using a small spoon to scoop out the soft part of each meringue. Lay clean paper on the board, flip the meringues upside down, and put them back into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When you're ready to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavored with liqueur or vanilla and sweetened with powdered sugar. Join two of the meringues together and stack them high on the dish, as shown in the attached drawing. To change up their look, you can sprinkle finely chopped almonds or currants on them before adding the sugar, and they can be garnished with any brightly colored jam. You need to work quickly when making this sweet treat; if the meringues aren't put in the oven right after mixing the sugar and eggs, the sugar will melt, and the mixture will spread on the paper instead of holding its shape. The sweeter the meringues, the crispier they'll be; however, if there's not enough sugar mixed in, they might end up tough. They can sometimes be colored with cochineal, and if stored properly in a dry place, they'll stay good for a month or six weeks.
Time.—Altogether, about 1/2 hour.
Time.—About 30 minutes.
Average cost, with the cream and flavouring, 1s.
Average cost, including the cream and flavoring, 1 shilling.
Sufficient to make 2 dozen meringues. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to make 2 dozen meringues. Available at any time.
NOYEAU CREAM.
1452. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons, noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of cream.
1452. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons, noyeau and powdered sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pints of cream.
Mode.—Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste.
Mode.—Dissolve the isinglass in a bit of boiling water, add the lemon juice, and strain this into the cream, mixing in enough noyeau and sugar to flavor and sweeten the mixture nicely; whip the cream well, pour it into an oiled mold, and place the mold in ice or a cool spot; unmold it, and garnish the dish as you like.
Time.—Altogether, 1/2 hour.
Time.—Total, 30 minutes.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint and the best isinglass at 4 shillings.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a quart mold. Good at any time.
OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
(A very pretty dish.)
A beautiful dish.
1453. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass of sherry, sugar to taste.
1453. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass of sherry, sugar to taste.
[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
Mode.—Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly, colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a mould, open in the centre, for about 1/2 hour in cold water; fill it with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set; then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark colour, to contrast nicely with the cream.
Mode.—Make the above proportion of calf's-foot or isinglass jelly, coloring and flavoring it however you like; soak a mold with an opening in the center in cold water for about 30 minutes; fill it with the jelly and let it sit in a cool place until it’s fully set; then turn it out onto a plate; fill the center with whipped cream, flavored with sherry and sweetened with powdered sugar; pile the cream high in the center, and serve. The jelly should be made a darker color to nicely contrast with the cream.
Time.—3/4 hour. Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Duration: 45 minutes. Average cost: £3.60.
Sufficient to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to fill a 1.5-pint mold. Good at any time.
ORANGE JELLY.
1454. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. of isinglass, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges.
1454. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. of isinglass, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges.
[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]
[Illustration: OPEN MOLD.]
Mode.—Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and the rind of 1 orange, and the same of 1/2 lemon, and stir these over the fire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add to this the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and sufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10 oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fire until it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain the jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put it into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added.
Mode.—Put the water in a saucepan with the isinglass, sugar, and the peel of 1 orange and 1/2 lemon. Stir over the heat until the isinglass dissolves, then remove any scum. Next, add the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and enough juice from China oranges to make a total of 1 pint; you'll need about 8 to 10 oranges for this amount. Stir everything together over heat until it's just about to boil; skim well, then strain the jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly bag. When it's nearly cold, pour it into a mold that has been wet, and once it's fully set, turn it out onto a dish and garnish as desired. To ensure the jelly is clear, make sure the orange and lemon juice is well strained and the isinglass is clarified before adding them to the other ingredients. To enhance the color, you can add a few drops of prepared cochineal.
Time.—5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it is added.
Time.—5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it’s added.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, using the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable from November to May.
Enough to fill a quart mold. In season from November to May.
ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF ORANGE.
1455. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1 pint of clarified syrup.
1455. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pints of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1 pint of clarified syrup.
Mode.—Boil 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar with 1/2 pint of water until there is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises), and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup, where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. When the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set, place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been wrung out in boiling water.
Method.—Boil 1/2 lb. of granulated sugar with 1/2 pint of water until no foam remains (which should be carefully skimmed off as it appears), and gently peel the oranges; slice them thinly without breaking the delicate skin, and add these orange slices to the syrup for about 5 minutes; then remove them and use the syrup for the jelly, which should be made according to recipe No. 1454. Once the oranges are well drained and the jelly is nearly cool, pour a bit of jelly into the bottom of the mold; then layer in some orange pieces; pour a bit of jelly over them, and when this sets, add another layer of oranges, continuing this process until the mold is full. Place it in ice or a cool spot, and before turning it out, wrap a cloth around the mold for a minute or two after soaking it in boiling water.
Time.—5 minutes to simmer the oranges. Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Time.—5 minutes to simmer the oranges. Average cost, £0.17.
Sufficient, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould.
Sufficient, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mold.
Seasonable from November to May.
Available from November to May.
TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET.
1456. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/3 saltspoonful of pepper, 1/4 lb. of butter.
1456. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 pinch of salt, 1/3 pinch of pepper, 1/4 lb. of butter.
[Illustration: OMELET.]
[Illustration: OMELET.]
Mode.—Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz. of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture. Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and, as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form; and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese, allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served with gravy; but this should never be poured over them, but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with arrowroot or rice flour.
Mode.—Break the eggs into a bowl, leaving out the whites of 3, and whisk them with the salt and pepper until they're very fluffy; then add 2 oz. of the butter cut into small pieces, and mix it in. Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying pan, heat it up until it's quite hot, and as soon as it starts to bubble, whisk the eggs briskly for a minute or two and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon in one direction until it thickens and firms up. Once it's set, fold the edges over so that the omelet takes on an oval shape; when it's nicely browned on one side and firm, it's done. To eliminate any running egg on the top, hold the pan in front of the fire for a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve it promptly on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it's just needed. The flavor of this omelet can be greatly improved by adding minced parsley, minced onion or shallot, or grated cheese, using 1 tablespoon of the former and half that amount of the latter per the number of eggs mentioned. Shrimp or oysters can also be included; the oysters should be scalded in their liquid, then cleaned and cut into small pieces. When making an omelet, make sure it’s not too thin; to avoid this, don’t use a pan that's too large, as the mixture will spread too much and taste too much like the outer edge. It also shouldn't be greasy, burnt, or overcooked, and should be made over a low heat so that everything heats through without drying the outside. Omelets sometimes come with gravy; however, this should never be poured over them, but served in a separate dish, as the liquid makes the omelet heavy and flat instead of light and soft. When making the gravy, ensure the flavor doesn't overpower that of the omelet and thickens it with arrowroot or rice flour.
Time.—With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 9d.
Time.—With 6 eggs, in an 18 or 20-inch frying pan, 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 people. Suitable at any time.
HAM OMELET (A delicious Breakfast Dish.)
HAM OMELET (A delicious breakfast dish.)
1457. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham.
1457. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoons of minced ham.
Mode.—Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2 minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir in the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any salt to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well for this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy.
Mode.—Finely chop the ham, making sure to remove any fat, and fry it for 2 minutes in a bit of butter. Then, prepare the batter for the omelet, mix in the ham, and follow the instructions in recipe No. 1456. Don't add any salt to the batter, as the ham usually provides enough saltiness to flavor the omelet. Good lean bacon or tongue works just as well for this dish, but they should be lightly cooked before being mixed into the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy.
Time.—From 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—Between 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Suitable for 4 people. Seasonal at any time.
KIDNEY OMELET (A favourite French dish.)
KIDNEY OMELET (A favorite French dish.)
1458. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5 oz. of butter.
1458. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoons of minced veal kidney, 5 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456, and when the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on to a very hot dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant it comes from the fire.
Mode.—Remove the skin from the kidneys, cut them into small cubes, and sauté them in a frying pan with 1 oz. of butter over the heat for 2 or 3 minutes. Prepare the ingredients for the omelet as you would in recipe No. 1456, and once the eggs are well whisked, stir in the kidney pieces. Heat the butter in the frying pan until it bubbles, then pour in the omelet and cook it on low heat for 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold the edges in so that the omelet takes on an oval shape, being careful not to overcook it. To brown the top, hold the pan in front of the fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until you achieve the desired color, but never flip the omelet in the pan. Carefully slide it onto a very hot dish, or, for a safer option, place a dish on top of the omelet and quickly flip the pan over. Serve it immediately after it comes off the heat.
Time.—4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, £0.01.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 4 people. Appropriate anytime.
TO MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET.
1459. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar.
1459. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar.
Mode.—Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together. Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a very hot dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.
Method.—Break the eggs into a bowl, leaving out the whites of 3; whisk them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be cut into small pieces, and mix all these ingredients thoroughly. Heat the remaining butter in a small frying pan until it's hot and begins to bubble, then pour in the eggs, etc. Keep stirring them until they start to set; then fold the edges of the omelet over to shape it into an oval, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan in front of the fire, or use a salamander, and carefully turn it onto a very hot plate: sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and serve.
Time.—From 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
Time.—From 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 4 people. Suitable anytime.
OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET.
OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET.
1460. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred.
1460. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoons of apricot, strawberry, or any jam that you prefer.
Mode.—Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling it over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately; they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve, and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted sugar before being sent to table.
Mode.—Make the omelet using recipe No. 1459, but instead of folding it over, keep it flat in the pan. Once it’s nice and firm and browned on one side, carefully flip it onto a hot plate, spread jam in the center, and fold the omelet over from each side; dust it with powdered sugar and serve immediately. You can also create a nice presentation of smaller omelets by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions and frying them separately; then, spread each one with a different type of jam and roll them up. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with powdered sugar before serving.
Time.—4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, £0.06.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 4 people. Suitable anytime.
OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.
1461. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessert-spoonful of rice-flour.
1461. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 5 oz. of powdered sugar, flavoring of vanilla, orange blossom water, or lemon zest, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessert spoonful of rice flour.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered. Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle finely-powdered sugar over the soufflé, and serve it immediately.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the egg whites, then mix the yolks with the sugar, rice flour, and your choice of flavoring. Whisk the egg whites separately and gently fold them into the batter. Heat some butter in a small frying pan until it starts to bubble, then pour the batter in and cook it over a low to medium flame. Once the omelet is set, fold the edges to create an oval shape, and transfer it to a well-buttered silver dish. Place the dish in the oven and bake for 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle powdered sugar over the soufflé and serve it immediately.
Time.—About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes.
Time.—About 4 minutes in the pan; bake for 12 to 15 minutes.
Average cost. 1s.
Typical cost. 1s.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 3 or 4 people. Good at any time.
BACHELOR'S OMELET.
1462. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1/2 teacupful of milk.
1462. INGREDIENTS.—2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon of flour, 1/2 cup of milk.
Mode.—Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs, mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion; double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process, substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs.
Method.—Make a thin mixture of flour and milk; then beat the eggs, combine everything, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Melt the butter in a small frying pan, and when it's very hot, pour in the batter. Let the pan sit for a few minutes over a medium flame; then sprinkle some chopped herbs and a few bits of onion on the omelet; fold the omelet carefully, and slide it out of the pan onto a warm plate. You can make a simple sweet omelet using the same method, replacing the chopped herbs with sugar or jam.
Time.—2 minutes.
Time.—2 min.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6p.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
Enough for 2 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate for any season.
ORANGE CREAM.
1463. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugar to taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream.
1463. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugar to taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream.
[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]
[Illustration: OPEN MOLD.]
Mode.—Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, and put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to make in all 1-1/2 pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to the other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes. Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it 1/2 pint of thick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream, and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. of isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of ingredients.
Mode.—Juice the oranges and lemon; strain it and pour it into a saucepan with the gelatin and enough water to make a total of 1-1/2 pints. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon peels, add it to the other ingredients, and boil everything together for about 10 minutes. Strain through a muslin bag, and when it's cool, mix in 1/2 pint of thick cream. Wet a mold, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream, and place it in a cool spot to set. If it’s very cold outside, 1 oz. of gelatin will be enough for this amount of ingredients.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the juice and water.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the juice and water.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s.
Average cost, with the best fish glue, 3s.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Enough to fill a quart mold.
Seasonable from November to May.
Available from November to May.
ORANGE CREAMS.
1464. INGREDIENTS.—1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream.
1464. INGREDIENTS.—1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoon of brandy, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream.
Mode.—Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it in a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes, adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the boiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and beat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place the cups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite cold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips.
Method.—Boil the rind of the Seville orange until it's soft, then mash it in a mortar until it becomes a pulp. Mix in the brandy, the strained orange juice, and the sugar, and beat everything together for about 10 minutes, adding the well-beaten egg yolks. Heat the cream until it just begins to boil, and then slowly pour it into the other ingredients while mixing. Continue to beat the mixture until it's almost cold; then pour it into custard cups and place the cups in a deep dish of boiling water, letting them sit until completely cool. Remove the cups from the water, wipe them dry, and top the creams with candied orange peel or preserved chips.
Time.—Altogether, 3/4 hour.
Duration.—Total: 45 minutes.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 creams.
Enough to make 7 or 8 creams.
Seasonable from November to May.
Available from November to May.
Note.—To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the cream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm.
Note.—To make this dish cheaper, swap out the cream for milk, but add a tiny pinch of isinglass to help the creams set.
SEVILLE ORANGE (Citrus vulgaris).—This variety, called also bitter orange, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges, which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic, much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange. The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a sweetmeat.
SEVILLE ORANGE (Citrus vulgaris).—This variety, also known as bitter orange, is from the same species as the sweet orange and grows abundantly along the banks of the Guadalquivir River in Andalusia, which is where this fruit mainly comes from. In that region of Spain, there are extensive orchards of these oranges, which serve as the primary source of wealth for the monasteries. The pulp of the bitter orange isn’t eaten raw. The yellow rind, separated from the white spongy layer just beneath it, contains an essential oil that is a pleasant warm aromatic, much better for many uses than that of the common orange. The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this orange, and its flowers are used to distill the finest orange-flower water. Whole Seville oranges are also preserved as a sweet treat.
ORANGE FRITTERS.
1465. INGREDIENTS.—For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified dripping.
1465. INGREDIENTS.—For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified dripping.
Mode.—Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour, butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the thin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange in the batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; drop in the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drain away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkle over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly.
Mode.—Whip up a light batter using the same amounts of flour, butter, salt, eggs, and enough milk to achieve the right consistency. Peel the oranges, removing as much of the white pith as possible, and cut each orange into eight pieces, being careful not to break the thin skin unless it's necessary to take out the seeds. Dip each orange piece in the batter. Have a pan of boiling lard or clarified fat ready; drop the oranges in and fry them until they're a light brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Once finished, place them on a piece of blotting paper in front of the fire to let the excess grease drain off, and serve them on a white doily. Dust them generously with powdered sugar and serve immediately.
Time.—8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them.
Time.—8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to let them drain.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable from November to May.
Available from November to May.
A PRETTY DISH OF ORANGES.
1466. INGREDIENTS.—6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugar to taste.
1466. INGREDIENTS.—6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoons of any kind of liqueur, sugar to taste.
Mode.—Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them until the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a small quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sized slices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hot sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should be well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only should be lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Let the sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on a dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of liqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table.
Mode.—Put the sugar and water in a saucepan and boil them until the sugar becomes brittle, which you can check by taking a small amount in a spoon and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is cooked enough, it will snap easily. Peel the oranges, removing as much of the white pith as possible, and cut them into nice-sized slices without breaking the thin white skin around the juicy pulp. Place the orange pieces on small skewers, dip them in the hot sugar, and arrange them in layers around a plain mold that should be well oiled with the highest quality salad oil. Only line the sides of the mold with the oranges and leave the center open for the cream. Allow the sugar to cool and become firm; then carefully turn the oranges out onto a dish and fill the center with whipped cream, flavored with any type of liqueur and sweetened with powdered sugar. This is a very decorative and delightful dish for the supper table.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the sugar. Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Time—10 minutes to boil the sugar. Average cost, 8 pence.
Sufficient for 1 mould. Seasonable from November to May.
Sufficient for 1 mold. Available from November to May.
TO MAKE PANCAKES.
1467. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs, flour, milk; to every egg allow 1 oz. of flour, about 1 gill of milk, 1/8 saltspoonful of salt.
1467. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs, flour, milk; for each egg, use 1 oz. of flour, about 1 gill of milk, and 1/8 pinch of salt.
[Illustration: PANCAKES.]
[Illustration: PANCAKES.]
Mode.—Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately in a cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, and a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter; then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.; but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency of thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it be delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, put into it a small piece of butter, allowing about 1/2 oz. to each pancake. When it is melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 teacupful to a pan 5 inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it is nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter, and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (an operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in the pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish before the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish; then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a further quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a little grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them. To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to the batter before frying.
Mode.—Make sure the eggs are fresh; break each one separately into a cup; whisk them well, then put them into a bowl along with the flour, salt, and a few drops of milk, and mix everything into a perfectly smooth batter. Gradually add the rest of the milk. The amount of this ingredient should depend on the size of the eggs, etc.; however, the batter, when ready for frying, should be the consistency of thick cream. Heat a small frying pan on the stove; it should be very clean, or the pancakes will stick. When it’s hot, add a small piece of butter, about 1/2 oz. for each pancake. Once it’s melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 cup for a pan that's 5 inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes or until it’s nicely brown on one side. By pouring in a small amount of batter and making the pancakes thin, you can avoid having to flip them (which can be tricky for inexperienced cooks). When the pancake is done, sprinkle some powdered sugar on top, roll it up in the pan, and use a large spatula to transfer it to a dish in front of the fire. Keep this up until you’ve made enough for a serving; then quickly bring them to the table, continuing to serve more, since pancakes are best enjoyed right after they come out of the frying pan. You can enhance the batter with a bit of grated lemon zest, or roll the pancakes with jam instead of using sugar. Serve sifted sugar and a sliced lemon alongside them. To make the pancakes really light, beat the egg yolks and whites separately and add the whites to the batter just before frying.
Time.—from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not require turning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.
Time.—4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that doesn't need flipping; 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.
Average cost, for 3 persons, 6d.
Average cost, for 3 people, 6d.
Sufficient.—Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion, for 3 persons.
Sufficient.—Use 3 eggs, along with the other ingredients in proportion, for 3 people.
Seasonable at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.
Suitable at any time, but especially served on Fat Tuesday.
RICHER PANCAKES.
1468. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour.
1468. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, flour.
Mode.—Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well, strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and as much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour in sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5 minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugar between each, and serve.
Mode.—Make sure the eggs are super fresh, beat them well, and mix in the cream, powdered sugar, wine, nutmeg, and enough flour to get the batter to about the same thickness as regular pancake batter. Heat the frying pan, wipe it down with a clean cloth, pour in enough batter for a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5 minutes. Stack the pancakes on a plate, sprinkle sifted sugar between each one, and serve.
Time.—About 5 minutes.
Time. —About 5 mins.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 3d.
Average cost, with cream at £0.05 per pint, £0.11.
Sufficient to make 8 pancakes.
Enough to make 8 pancakes.
Seasonable at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.
Appropriate at any time, but especially served on Pancake Day.
PEACH FRITTERS.
1469. INGREDIENTS.—For the batter: 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;—peaches, hot lard or clarified dripping.
1469. INGREDIENTS.—For the batter: 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;—peaches, hot lard or clarified dripping.
Mode.—Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should be quite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard or clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point before the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to fry them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on a white d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve.
Mode.—Make a smooth batter just like the instructions in recipe No. 1393. Prepare the peaches by peeling, halving, and pitting them; they should be fully ripe. Dip the peach pieces in the batter and fry them in hot lard or clarified fat, making sure the oil is heated to the boiling point before adding the peaches. Fry for about 8 to 10 minutes, then drain them on a rack before placing them on a white doily. Sprinkle with plenty of powdered sugar and serve.
Time.—From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drain them.
Time.—Fry the fritters for 8 to 10 minutes, then drain them for 6 minutes.
Average cost, 1s.
Average price, 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Fits 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
Seasonal in July, August, and September.
[Illustration: PEACH.]
[Illustration: PEACH.]
PEACH.—The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the generic name, separating them from Amygdalus, or Almond, to which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical, they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection: hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons, without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin, of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve.
PEACH.—Peaches and nectarines are some of the tastiest fruits we have, and they are considered varieties of the same species cultivated differently. Peaches are known for their delicate fuzz, while nectarines are smooth. However, to prove they are the same species, there have been trees that produced peaches on one side and nectarines on the other; in fact, a single fruit can have fuzz on one side and be smooth on the other. The trees and blossoms are nearly identical. According to Pliny, peaches originally came from Persia, where they grow naturally, leading the Romans to name it Persica; some modern botanists now use this name as the generic name, distinguishing them from Amygdalus, or Almond, which Linnaeus had put them together with. Although they aren't tropical, they need a lot of warmth to mature properly; that’s why they rarely ripen in this country during normal seasons without walls or glass, making them quite expensive. A good peach has firm flesh, thin skin, a vibrant color where it’s sunlit, and a yellowish-green hue next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of flavorful juice, thick, and has a small stone. Excess fuzz indicates lower quality. This fruit is commonly enjoyed at dessert and makes a tasty preserve.
PEARS A L'ALLEMANDE.
1470. INGREDIENTS.—6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the yolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.
1470. INGREDIENTS.—6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the yolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. of gelatin.
Mode.—Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, and steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them with the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; then brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with sifted sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boil it up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it remain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little prepared cochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish.
Mode.—Peel and slice the pears into your preferred shape, and soak them in cold water to keep them from turning brown; place them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them, and boil them with butter and enough sugar to sweeten them well until they are tender; then brush the pears with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and arrange them on a plate. Add the gelatine to the syrup, bring it to a quick boil for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it set. You can enhance the syrup's appearance by adding a little prepared cochineal.
Time.—From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes to boil the syrup.
Time.—Stew the pears for 20 minutes to half an hour; boil the syrup for 5 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost: 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for a large dish.
Enough for a large dish.
Seasonable from August to February.
In season from August to February.
MOULDED PEARS.
1471. INGREDIENTS.—4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar to taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, a strip of lemon-peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.
1471. INGREDIENTS.—4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar to taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, a strip of lemon peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. of gelatin.
Mode.—Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with 3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and boil 1/2 pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine, lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boil quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; put the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on a glass dish.
Mode.—Peel and cut the pears into quarters; place them in a jar with 3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and enough sugar to sweeten everything nicely; cover the jar tightly, and bake the pears in a low oven until they're perfectly tender, but make sure they don't break. Once done, arrange the pears in a plain mold that has been well wetted, and boil 1/2 pint of the liquid the pears were baked in along with the wine, lemon peel, strained juice, and gelatin. Let these ingredients boil quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the warm liquid over the pears; put the mold in a cool place, and when the jelly is set, turn it out onto a glass dish.
Time.—2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven.
Time.—2 hours to bake the pears in a low oven.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, £1.15.
Sufficient for a quart mould.
Enough for a quart mold.
Seasonable from August to February
Available from August to February
PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.
(An elegant Dish.)
(A stylish Dish.)
1472. INGREDIENTS.—A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of brandy or liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393.
1472. INGREDIENTS.—A small pineapple, a small wineglass of brandy or liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393.
Mode.—This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them now in such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may be purchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, be economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries for the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours; then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream for the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this is ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to 8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, when done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white d'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly.
Mode.—This elegant dish may seem extravagant, but it’s really not if you make it when pineapples are in season. We currently get them in such large amounts from the West Indies that sometimes they can be bought for a very low price: of course, it wouldn't be cost-effective to use the pineapples grown in our English greenhouses for making fritters. Peel the pineapple with as little waste as possible, slice it thinly, and soak these slices in the mentioned amount of brandy or liqueur and powdered sugar for 4 hours; then make a batter just like you would for apple fritters, using cream instead of milk and a smaller amount of flour; when this is ready, dip the pineapple pieces in it and fry them in boiling lard for 5 to 8 minutes; flip them when one side is golden brown, and once cooked, drain them from the lard over the fire, place them on a white doily, sprinkle sifted sugar on top, and serve immediately.
Time.—5 to 8 minutes.
Duration.—5 to 8 minutes.
Average cost, when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. for the pine.
Average cost, when inexpensive and abundant, 1s. 6d. for the pine.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Good for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable in July and August.
In season in July and August.
PINEAPPLE.—The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the 17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is represented as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is presenting it on his knees.
PINEAPPLE.—The pineapple has been known in Europe for just over two hundred years and has been cultivated in England for slightly more than a century. It's reported that the first pineapples grown in Europe were by M. La Cour, from Leyden, around the mid-17th century; and it is said that Sir Matthew Decker, from Richmond, was the first to cultivate them in England. At Kensington Palace, there is a painting showing Charles II. receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is presenting it on his knees.
PLAIN FRITTERS.
1473. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk.
1473. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk.
[Illustration: STAR FRITTER-MOULD.]
[Illustration: STAR FRITTER MOLD.]
Mode.—Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the milk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then the remainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, and should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or three tablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty of boiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them when sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasy moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the fire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar.
Method.—Mix the flour with a small amount of milk until it forms a smooth batter; then stir in the eggs, which should be beaten well, followed by the rest of the milk. Whisk the whole mixture until it’s perfectly smooth, and if it’s not thin enough, add two or three more tablespoons of milk. Have a frying pan ready with plenty of hot lard; drop in a little more than a tablespoon of the batter at a time and fry the fritters until they’re a nice brown, flipping them when one side is cooked enough. Drain them from the grease by placing them on a piece of blotting paper in front of the fire; serve them on a white doily, dust with sifted sugar, and accompany with a cut lemon and plenty of powdered sugar.
Time.—From 6 to 8 minutes.
Duration.—6 to 8 minutes.
Average cost, 4d.
Average cost, 4d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
"Seasonable" any time.
POTATO FRITTERS.
1474. INGREDIENTS.—2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard.
1474. INGREDIENTS.—2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoons of cream, 2 tablespoons of raisin or sweet wine, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, 4 teaspoons of grated nutmeg, hot lard.
[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOULD.]
[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOLD.]
Mode.—Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well, leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat all together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremely light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop a tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:—A glass of sherry mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce separately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a white d'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be well drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being dished.
Method.—Boil the potatoes, and mash them lightly with a fork, but don’t use a spoon, as that would make them dense. Whisk the eggs well, leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and mix everything together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is very light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying pan, and drop a tablespoon of the batter at a time into it, frying the fritters until they're a nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:—A glass of sherry mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and enough white sugar to sweeten everything nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce separately in a bowl. The fritters should be neatly arranged on a white doily, with powdered sugar sprinkled over them; they should be well drained on a piece of blotting paper in front of the fire before being served.
Time.—From 6 to 8 minutes.
Duration.—6 to 8 minutes.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
RASPBERRY CREAM.
1475. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1475. INGREDIENTS.—3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoons of brandy.
[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOULD.]
[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOLD.]
Mode.—Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 1/4 hour, or until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a basin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly, which, when melted, would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add a little pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well until nearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool place till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, but must be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: in summer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing it with a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flows from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If the colour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added to improve its appearance. (See coloured plate T1.)
Method.—Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 15 minutes, or until the isinglass is melted, and strain it through a fine sieve into a bowl. Let it cool slightly; then add enough raspberry jelly to make 1/3 pint when melted, and stir well until everything is thoroughly mixed. If it’s not sweet enough, add a bit of powdered sugar along with the brandy; whisk the mixture until it’s nearly cold, pour it into a well-greased mold, and place it in a cool spot until it sets completely. You can substitute raspberry jam for the jelly, but it must be melted and strained to remove the seeds: in summer, you can use fresh fruit juice by lightly mashing the fruit with a wooden spoon and sprinkling sugar over it; then use the juice that comes from the fruit to mix with the cream. If the color isn’t vibrant enough, you can add a few drops of prepared cochineal to enhance its appearance. (See colored plate T1.)
Time.—1/4 hour to boil the cream and isinglass.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the cream and gelatin.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, and the best isinglass at 3 shillings.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Enough to fill a quart mold.
Seasonable, with jelly, at any time.
Seasonal, with jelly, at any time.
Note.—Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner, substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry.
Note.—Strawberry cream can be made in exactly the same way, just replace raspberry jam or jelly with strawberry.
RICE BLANCMANGE.
1476. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence of almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves.
1476. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of granulated sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavoring of lemon zest, almond essence or vanilla, or bay leaves.
Mode.—Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of the milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk to the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about 10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping it well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour in the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quite easily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compôte of any kind of fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better for being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to become firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in the milk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops of essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, would be required to flavour the above proportion of milk.
Mode.—Blend the rice into a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of the milk, and put the rest into a saucepan with the sugar, butter, and any of the flavorings you prefer; bring the milk to a boil, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about 10 minutes, or until it easily pulls away from the saucepan, stirring continuously. Grease a mold with pure salad oil; pour in the rice, and allow it to set completely, at which point it should come out easily. Garnish it with jam, or serve it with a fruit compote just before serving. This blancmange is best made the day before it is needed, as it has time to firm up. If using bay leaves for flavor, steep 3 leaves in the milk and remove them before adding the rice: about 8 drops of almond extract, or 12 to 16 drops of vanilla extract, would be needed to flavor the specified amount of milk.
Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice.
Time.—Boil the rice for 10 to 15 minutes.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Enough to fill a quart mold.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
RICE CROQUETTES.
1477. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.
1477. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. of powdered sugar, flavoring of vanilla, lemon peel, or bitter almonds, egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.
Mode.—Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried up; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it into small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning them about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture from them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or two; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. A small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish.
Method.—Combine the rice, milk, and sugar in a saucepan, and let the rice expand gradually over low heat until all the milk is absorbed; just before the rice is finished, mix in a few drops of the essence of any of the flavorings mentioned above. Allow the rice to cool, then shape it into small round balls, dip them in egg yolk, coat them with breadcrumbs, and fry them in hot lard for about 10 minutes, turning occasionally to ensure even browning. Drain the excess grease by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or two; stack them on a white doily, and serve quickly. A small piece of jam can sometimes be added in the center of each croquette, which greatly enhances the flavor of this popular dish.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to fry the croquettes.
Time.—Soak the rice for 45 minutes to 1 hour; fry the croquettes for about 10 minutes.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 croquettes.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 croquettes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always appropriate.
RICE FRITTERS.
1478. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of fresh butter 6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs.
1478. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. rice, 1 quart milk, 3 oz. sugar, 1 oz. fresh butter, 6 oz. orange marmalade, 4 eggs.
Mode.—Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over a slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour. When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole over the fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish to the thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectly cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as for apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly.
Mode.—Cook the rice in the milk with the sugar and butter over low heat until it’s completely tender, which will take about 45 minutes. Once the rice is done, drain any remaining milk and mix in the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the mixture over the heat until the eggs are set. Then, spread the mixture on a plate to about 1/2 inch thick, or a bit thicker. Once it’s completely cool, cut it into long strips, dip them in batter similar to that used for apple fritters, and fry them until they are a nice brown. Serve them on a white doily, sprinkle with sifted sugar, and serve immediately.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.
Time.—About 45 minutes to soak the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 fritters.
Enough to make 7 or 8 fritters.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
RICE SNOWBALLS. (A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers.)
RICE SNOWBALLS. (A nice dish for kids' dinners.)
1479. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of essence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423.
1479. INGREDIENTS.—6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavoring of almond extract, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made using recipe No. 1423.
Mode.—Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a little more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quite soft, put it into teacups, or small round jars, and let it remain until cold; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over a custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place a small piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanilla may be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, when either of these is preferred; but the flavouring of the custard must correspond with that of the rice.
Method.—Cook the rice in milk with sugar and a splash of almond extract until it's tender, adding a bit more milk if it cooks down too much. Once the rice is fully soft, place it in teacups or small round jars and let it cool. Then, turn the rice out onto a deep glass dish, pour a custard made according to recipe No. 1423 over it, and top each ball with a small piece of colorful preserve or jelly. Lemon peel or vanilla can be used instead of almond extract if you prefer, but make sure the custard flavor matches the rice.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to swell the rice in the milk.
Time.—About 45 minutes to let the rice swell in the milk.
Average cost, with the custard, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, with the custard, £0.075.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 children.
Enough for 5 or 6 kids.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
RICE SOUFFLE.
1480. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, or anything that may be preferred, a piece of butter the size of a walnut.
1480. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoons of ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, sugar to taste, flavoring of lemon zest, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, or any preferred option, a piece of butter the size of a walnut.
Mode.—Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quite smoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk and butter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about 1/4 hour, or until the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the soufflé; but add this latter ingredient as sparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the lighter will be the soufflé. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth or snow; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the whole into a soufflé-dish, and put it instantly into the oven; bake it about 1/2 hour in a moderate oven; take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel over the top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the soufflé to table in the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned round, or inclosed in a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this fashionable dish entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs, the manner of baking, and the expedition with which it is sent to table. Soufflés should be served instantly from the oven, or they will sink, and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding.
Mode.—Combine the ground rice with 6 tablespoons of milk until it's smooth, then transfer it to a saucepan along with the rest of the milk and butter. Keep stirring it over the heat for about 15 minutes, or until the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, beat the yolks in a bowl, and mix in the rice along with enough powdered sugar to sweeten the soufflé, adding the sugar sparingly, as less sugar will result in a lighter soufflé. Now whisk the egg whites until they are stiff and frothy; gently fold them into the other mixture, then pour everything into a soufflé dish and immediately place it in the oven. Bake for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven; once done, take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel over the top, sprinkle sifted sugar on it, and serve the soufflé in the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin wrapped around it or placed in a more decorative dish. The success of this trendy dish relies entirely on properly whisking the egg whites, the baking method, and the speed at which it is served. Soufflés should be served immediately from the oven, or they will collapse and become just an ordinary pudding.
Time.—About 1/2 hour.
Time.—About 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
TO MAKE A SOUFFLE.
1481. INGREDIENTS.—3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt flavouring.
1481. INGREDIENTS.—3 heaped tablespoons of potato flour, rice flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, 1/4 saltspoon of salt, flavoring.
Mode.—Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingredients is used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan, with the remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, and stir them into the soufflé batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence of any flavouring that may be preferred; such as vanilla, lemon, orange, ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a soufflé-dish, put it immediately into the oven, and bake for about 1/2 hour; then take it out, put the dish into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose; hold a salamander or hot shovel over the soufflé, strew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a soufflé well, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites, the oven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from the oven. If the soufflé be ever so well made, and it is allowed to stand before being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be entirely spoiled. Soufflés may be flavoured in various ways, but must be named accordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherché flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish.
Mode.—Mix the potato flour or whatever ingredient you choose with a little milk; then add it to a saucepan along with the rest of the milk, the butter, salt, and enough powdered sugar to sweeten everything nicely. Stir these ingredients over the heat until the mixture thickens; then remove it from the heat and let it cool slightly. Separate the egg whites from the yolks, beat the yolks, and mix them into the soufflé batter. Now whip the egg whites until they are as stiff as possible, as this is crucial for the quality of the dish; fold them into the other ingredients, and add a few drops of your preferred flavoring, such as vanilla, lemon, orange, ginger, etc. Pour the batter into a soufflé dish, place it in the oven right away, and bake for about 30 minutes. After baking, remove it and place the dish into a more decorative one designed for this purpose; hold a salamander or hot shovel over the soufflé, sprinkle it with sifted sugar, and serve it immediately. The key to making a soufflé well is to have the egg whites whipped properly, to keep the oven at the right temperature, and to serve it as soon as it comes out of the oven. Even if the soufflé is perfectly made, if it sits before being served, its appearance and quality will be ruined. Soufflés can be flavored in various ways, but should be named accordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and exquisite flavorings that can be used for this popular dish.
Time.—About 1/2 hour in the oven; 2 or 3 minutes to hold the salamander over.
Time.—About 30 minutes in the oven; 2 to 3 minutes to use the salamander.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, £1.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Enough for 3 or 4 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SNOW EGGS, or OEUFS A LA NEIGE.
SNOW EGGS, or OEUFS A LA NEIGE.
(A very pretty Supper Dish.)
(A really nice dinner plate.)
1482. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower water.
1482. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, powdered sugar to taste, flavoring of vanilla, lemon zest, or orange blossom water.
Mode.—Put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and the rind of 1/2 lemon. Let this steep by the side of the fire for 1/2 hour, when take out the peel; separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth, or until there is no liquid remaining; bring the milk to the boiling-point, and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep turning the eggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a glass dish, beat up the yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little more sugar, and strain this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over the eggs, when they should rise to the surface. They make an exceedingly pretty addition to a supper, and should be put in a cold place after being made. When they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water, it is not necessary to steep the milk. A few drops of the essence of either may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached. In making the custard, a little more flavouring and sugar should always be added.
Method.—Pour the milk into a saucepan and add enough sugar to sweeten it nicely, along with the zest of half a lemon. Let this steep by the fire for half an hour, then remove the peel. Separate the egg whites from the yolks, and whip the whites until they're stiff and no liquid remains. Bring the milk to a boil and drop in the whipped egg whites one tablespoon at a time, gently turning the eggs until they're cooked. Place the cooked whites on a glass dish, beat the egg yolks, mix them with the milk, add a little more sugar, and strain the mixture into a jug. Put the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it in one direction until it thickens, but be careful not to let it boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over the egg whites, and they should float to the surface. They make a beautiful addition to a dinner and should be stored in a cool place after preparation. If you want to flavor them with vanilla or orange-flower water, you can skip steeping the milk. Just add a few drops of the essence to the milk just before poaching the egg whites. When making the custard, it’s always good to add a bit more flavor and sugar.
Time.—About 2 minutes to poach the whites; 8 minutes to stir the custard.
Time.—About 2 minutes to poach the egg whites; 8 minutes to stir the custard.
Average cost, 8d.
Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
STONE CREAM OF TOUS LES MOIS.
1483. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of preserve, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of lump sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of essence of cloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring.
1483. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of preserves, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of granulated sugar, 1 heaping tablespoon of tous les mois, 3 drops of clove essence, 3 drops of almond flavoring.
Mode.—Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smooth batter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk; stir it briskly into the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for 2 minutes. When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the cream over the jam, and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit.
Method.—Put the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; pour the milk into a lined saucepan along with the sugar, and bring it to a boil. Mix the tous les mois with a small amount of cold milk to create a smooth batter; then stir it quickly into the boiling milk, add the flavoring, and let it simmer for 2 minutes. When it’s slightly cool but not fully set, pour the cream over the jam and decorate it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit.
Time.—2 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
Time.—2 minutes. Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good at any time.
STRAWBERRY JELLY.
1484. INGREDIENTS.—Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juice allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass.
1484. INGREDIENTS.—Strawberries, powdered sugar; for every pint of juice, use 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass.
Mode.—Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well with a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be extracted; then add 1/2 pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain the strawberry-juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every pint allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in 1/4 pint of water. Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mould in ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves the flavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well strained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make the jelly muddy.
Method.—Pick the strawberries, place them in a pan, mash them well with a wooden spoon, add enough powdered sugar to sweeten them nicely, and let them sit for 1 hour to extract the juice. Then add 1/2 pint of water for every pint of juice. Strain the strawberry juice and water through a bag; measure it, and for every pint, use 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in 1/4 pint of water. Mix this with the juice; pour the jelly into a mold, and place the mold in ice. Adding a little lemon juice to the strawberry juice enhances the flavor of the jelly, especially if the fruit is very ripe; but it needs to be well strained before mixing with the other ingredients, or it will cloud the jelly.
Time.—1 hour to draw the juice.
Time.—1 hour to extract the juice.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3 shillings.
Sufficient.—Allow 1-1/2 pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient.—Allow 1.5 pints of jelly for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
In season in June, July, and August.
SWISS CREAM.
1485. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes, sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 tablespoonfuls of milk.
1485. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of macaroons or 6 small sponge cakes, sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. of granulated sugar, 2 large tablespoons of arrowroot, the zest of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 tablespoons of milk.
Mode.—Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and pour over them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to soak them well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar and lemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream is well flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cold milk; add this to the cream, and let it boil gently for about 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it off the fire, stir till nearly cold, when add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole over the cakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica, or candied citron cut thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This cream is exceedingly delicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon: when this flavouring is used, the sherry may be omitted, and the mixture poured over the dry cakes.
Method.—Place the macaroons or sponge cakes in a glass dish and pour enough sherry over them to cover and soak them well. In a lined saucepan, combine the cream with the sugar and lemon zest, and let it sit by the fire until it’s nicely flavored. Then, remove the lemon zest. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cold milk, add it to the cream, and let it boil gently for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat, stir until it’s nearly cold, then add the lemon juice and pour the mixture over the cakes. Decorate the cream with strips of angelica, thinly sliced candied citron, or colorful jelly or preserves. This cream is incredibly delicious if flavored with vanilla instead of lemon: when using vanilla, you can skip the sherry and pour the mixture over the dry cakes.
Time.—About 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to boil the cream.
Time.—About 30 minutes to steep the lemon peel; 5 minutes to boil the cream.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 3 shillings.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Good at any time.
TO MAKE SYLLABUB.
1486. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of sherry or white wine, 1/2 grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of milk.
1486. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of sherry or white wine, 1/2 grated nutmeg, sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pints of milk.
Mode.—Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and plenty of pounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up. Clouted cream may be laid on the top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg and sugar; and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milk is put in. In some counties, cider is substituted for the wine: when this is used, brandy must always be added. Warm milk may be poured on from a spouted jug or teapot; but it must be held very high.
Mode.—Pour the wine into a bowl, add grated nutmeg and a lot of powdered sugar, then mix in the frothed milk in the specified amount. You can top it with clotted cream and sprinkle pounded cinnamon or nutmeg and sugar on it; a splash of brandy can be added to the wine before adding the milk. In some regions, cider is used instead of wine, and when this is the case, brandy must always be added. Warm milk can be poured from a spouted jug or teapot, but it should be held up high while pouring.
Average cost, 2s.
Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. Great at any time.
TIPSY CAKE.
1487. INGREDIENTS.—1 moulded sponge-or Savoy-cake, sufficient sweet wine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 pint of rich custard.
1487. INGREDIENTS.—1 molded sponge or Savoy cake, enough sweet wine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoons of brandy, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 pint of rich custard.
[Illustration: TIPSY CAKE.]
[Illustration: Tipsy Cake.]
Mode.—Procure a cake that is three or four days old,—either sponge, Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottom of the cake level, to make it stand firm in the dish; make a small hole in the centre, and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine or sherry, mixed with the above proportion of brandy, to soak it nicely. When the cake is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into strips, stick them all over the cake, and pour round it a good custard, made by recipe No. 1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint of milk. The cakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped over them, the same as for trifles.
Mode.—Get a cake that's three or four days old—either sponge, Savoy, or rice works well for a tipsy cake. Level the bottom of the cake to make it stable in the dish; create a small hole in the center and pour enough sweet wine or sherry, mixed with the above amount of brandy, to soak it nicely. Once the cake is well soaked, blanch and slice the almonds into strips, sticking them all over the cake, and then pour a good custard around it, made following recipe No. 1423, using 8 eggs instead of 5 per pint of milk. Sometimes, the cakes are crumbled and soaked with whipped cream piled on top, just like you would for trifles.
Time.—About 2 hours to soak the cake. Average cost, 4s. 6d.
Time.—About 2 hours to soak the cake. Average cost, £0.22.
Sufficient for 1 dish. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 1 dish. Available anytime.
ALMOND.—The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than Britain, and is indigenous to the northern parts of Africa and Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated in Italy, Spain, and the south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the fruit seldom ripens in this country: it is much admired for the beauty of its blossoms. In the form of its leaves and blossoms it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included in the same genus by botanists; but the fruit, instead of presenting a delicious pulp like the peach, shrivels up as it ripens, and becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin. It flowers early in the spring, and produces fruit in August. There are two sorts of almonds,—sweet and bitter; but they are considered to be only varieties of the species; and though the qualities of the kernels are very different, they are not distinguishable by their appearance.
ALMOND.—The almond tree is originally from warmer climates than Britain, specifically found in northern Africa and Asia; however, it is now commonly grown in Italy, Spain, and the south of France. It isn't usually cultivated in Britain, and the fruit rarely ripens here: it is highly admired for the beauty of its flowers. In terms of its leaves and blossoms, it strongly resembles the peach tree and is classified in the same genus by botanists; however, instead of producing a delicious flesh like a peach, the almond fruit shrivels as it ripens and becomes just a tough leathery covering around the stone that holds the edible kernel, which is encased in a thin bitter skin. It blooms early in spring and bears fruit in August. There are two types of almonds—sweet and bitter—but they are considered just varieties of the same species; although the qualities of the kernels are quite different, they look the same.
AN EASY WAY OF MAKING A TIPSY CAKE.
1488. INGREDIENTS.—12 stale small sponge-cakes, raisin wine, 1/2 lb. of jam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423.
1488. INGREDIENTS.—12 stale small sponge cakes, raisin wine, 1/2 lb. of jam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423.
Mode.—Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this account they should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine; arrange them on a deep glass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between each, and pour round them a pint of custard, made by recipe No. 1423, decorating the top with cut preserved fruit.
Mode.—Soak the stale sponge cakes (they're cheaper this way) in a bit of raisin wine; layer them in a deep glass dish in four layers, adding a layer of jam in between each. Pour a pint of custard around them, made according to recipe No. 1423, and top it off with cut preserved fruit.
Time.—2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, £2.50.
Sufficient for 1 dish. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 1 dish. Available anytime.
TO MAKE A TRIFLE.
1489. INGREDIENTS.—For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. For the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk; 6 small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1489. INGREDIENTS.—For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of powdered sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, and a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. For the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs and 1 pint of milk; 6 small sponge cakes or 6 slices of sponge cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, and 6 tablespoons of brandy.
[Illustration: TRIFLE.]
[Illustration: TRIFLE.]
Mode.—The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the day before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it is much more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowl the pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk these ingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmer as fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue the whisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away in a cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons, and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little more, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423, using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool a little; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the day previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now but heap the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high as possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly, crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits are sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are now considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1.)
Mode.—The whipped cream for the trifle should be made the day before it’s needed, as it tastes better and becomes much more solid than when prepared on the same day. In a large bowl, combine the powdered sugar and the egg whites, which should be whipped to a stiff froth. Add a glass of sherry or sweet wine and the cream. Whisk these ingredients well in a cool place, skimming off the froth as it rises and draining it on a sieve. Keep whisking until you have enough whipped cream, which should be stored in a cool place to drain. The next day, put sponge cakes, macaroons, and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle dish; pour over them 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine mixed with 6 tablespoons of brandy. If this amount of wine doesn’t seem like enough, add a little more, as the cakes need to be well soaked. On top of the cakes, add grated lemon rind, blanched sweet almonds cut into strips, and a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard using recipe No. 1423, using 8 eggs instead of 5 per pint of milk, and let it cool a bit; then pour it over the cakes, etc. Since the whipped cream was made the day before and the trifle is prepared, all that’s left is to lightly pile the whipped cream on top, making it as high as possible. It can be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly, crystallized sweets, or flowers; small colored candies are sometimes used for garnishing a trifle, but they’re considered a bit old-fashioned now. (See colored plate, V1.)
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 5s. 6d.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 5 shillings 6 pence.
Sufficient for 1 trifle. Seasonable at any time.
Good for one small thing. Relevant anytime.
VANILLA CREAM.
1490. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of isinglass, flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla.
1490. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of milk, 8 egg yolks, 6 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of isinglass, flavoring to taste of vanilla extract.
[Illustration: VANILLA-CREAM MOULD.]
[Illustration: Vanilla Cream Mold.]
Mode.—Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot over a slow fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually the sweetened milk; flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, put the mixture into a jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water. Stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will be full of lumps. Take it off the fire; stir in the isinglass, which should be previously dissolved in about 1/4 pint of water, and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes; pour the cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence of vanilla, a pod may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour is well extracted. A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient for the above proportion of ingredients.
Method.—Put the milk and sugar in a saucepan and heat them over low heat. Beat the egg yolks and gradually add the sweetened milk. Flavor the mixture with vanilla extract, then pour it into a jug and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water. Stir the contents with a wooden spoon in one direction until the mixture thickens, but don't let it boil, or it will become lumpy. Remove it from the heat and stir in the dissolved isinglass, which should have been dissolved in about 1/4 pint of water and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes. Pour the cream into an oiled mold, place it in a cool area to set, and carefully turn it out onto a dish. Instead of using vanilla extract, you can boil a vanilla pod in the milk until the flavor is well extracted. One or one and a half pods will be enough for the amount of ingredients mentioned.
Time.—About 10 minutes to stir the mixture.
Time.—About 10 minutes to mix the ingredients.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, with the best isinglass, £0.12.5.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to fill a quart mold. Appropriate at any time.
VANILLE or VANILLA, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical herbaceous plant, which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The essence is the form in which it is used generally and most conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. It is in daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections generally.
VANILLA is the fruit of the vanilla plant, a herbaceous plant that grows in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. The fruit is a long, thick, and fleshy pod. Some species of this fruit have a pulp with a delightful aroma and flavor. Vanilla is mainly imported from Mexico. The pods for export are always harvested at peak ripeness. The essence is the most common and convenient form used. Its properties are stimulating and invigorating. It is used daily in ice creams, chocolates, and flavoring for various confections.
VICTORIA SANDWICHES.
1491. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs; their weight in pounded sugar, butter, and flour; 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or marmalade.
1491. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs; their weight in powdered sugar, butter, and flour; 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or marmalade.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish, and serve.
Method.—Cream the butter; mix in the flour and powdered sugar; combine these ingredients well, then add the eggs, which should be well whisked beforehand. Once the mixture has been beaten for about 10 minutes, grease a Yorkshire pudding tin, pour in the batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Allow it to cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of good preserves, place the other half on top, gently press the pieces together, and then cut it into long strips. Arrange them in a cross pattern on a glass dish and serve.
Time.—20 minutes.
Time.—20 mins.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Any time of year.
WHIPPED CREAM, for putting on Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c.
WHIPPED CREAM, for topping trifles, serving in glasses, etc.
1492. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of cream allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar, 1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, the rind of 1/2 lemon, the white of 1 egg.
1492. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of cream, use 3 oz. of powdered sugar, 1 glass of sherry or any sweet white wine, the zest of 1/2 lemon, and the white of 1 egg.
[Illustration: PASTRY LEAF.]
[Illustration: PASTRY LEAF.]
Mode.—Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar until quite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff; put the cream into a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip it to a froth; as fast as the froth rises, take it off with a skimmer, and put it on a sieve to drain, in a cool place. This should be made the day before it is wanted, as the whip is then so much firmer. The cream should be whipped in a cool place, and in summer, over ice, if it is obtainable. A plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish, and garnished with strips of angelica, or pastry leaves, or pieces of bright-coloured jelly: it makes a very pretty addition to the supper-table.
Mode.—Rub the sugar on the lemon peel and crush it in a mortar until it's really fine. Beat the egg white until it’s very stiff. Put the cream in a large bowl along with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip it into a froth. As the froth rises, scoop it off with a skimmer and place it on a sieve to drain in a cool spot. This should be made the day before you need it, as the whip will be much firmer. The cream should be whipped in a cool area, and in summer, over ice if possible. Plain whipped cream can be served in a glass dish and decorated with strips of angelica, pastry leaves, or pieces of brightly colored jelly; it makes a lovely addition to the dinner table.
Time.—About 1 hour to whip the cream.
Time.—It takes about 1 hour to whip the cream.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 9d.
Average cost, with cream at £0.05 per pint, £0.09.
Sufficient for 1 dish or 1 trifle.
Enough for 1 dish or 1 trifle.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
WHIPPED SYLLABUBS.
1493. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of cream, 1/4 pint of sherry, half that quantity of brandy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489.
1493. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of cream, 1/4 pint of sherry, half that amount of brandy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, a bit of grated nutmeg, 3 oz. of powdered sugar, whipped cream like that used for trifle No. 1489.
Mode.—Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub into glasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made in the same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made by whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in the glasses, without the whipped cream at the top.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients, pour the syllabub into glasses, and top each one with a dollop of whipped cream, prepared in the same way as for trifle No. 1489. To make solid syllabub, whip or mix the ingredients until they're thick and frothy, then portion it into glasses, skipping the whipped cream on top.
Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Sufficient to fill 8 or 9 glasses.
Sufficient to fill 8 or 9 glasses.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
THE CURE'S OMELET.
"Every one knows," says Brillat Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste," "that for twenty years Madame Récamier was the most beautiful woman in Paris. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, and took a great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult the Curé of —— respecting the working of an institution, she went to his house at five o'clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished at finding him already at his dinner-table.
"Everyone knows," says Brillat Savarin in his "Physiology of Taste," "that for twenty years Madame Récamier was the most beautiful woman in Paris. It's also well known that she was incredibly charitable and took a keen interest in every charitable cause. Wanting to talk to the Curé of —— about how an institution was functioning, she went to his house at five o'clock in the afternoon and was quite surprised to find him already at his dinner table.
"Madame Récamier wished to retire, but the Curé would not hear of it. A neat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in a crystal decanter; the porcelain was of the best; the plates had heaters of boiling water beneath them; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in attendance. The repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury. The crawfish-soup had just been removed, and there was on the table a salmon-trout, an omelet, and a salad.
"Madame Récamier wanted to leave, but the Curé wouldn’t allow it. A neat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in a crystal decanter; the porcelain was top quality; the plates had boiling water heaters underneath; a well-dressed maid was present. The meal was a balance between simplicity and luxury. The crawfish soup had just been taken away, and there was a salmon trout, an omelet, and a salad on the table."
"'My dinner will tell you,' said the worthy Curé, with a smile, 'that it is fast-day, according to our Church's regulations.' Madame Récamier and her host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed a skilful hand, the countenance of the Curé the while showing satisfaction.
"'My dinner will tell you,' said the kindly Curé with a smile, 'that it's a fasting day according to our Church's rules.' Madame Récamier and her host dug into the trout, the sauce revealing a skilled touch, while the Curé's face showed satisfaction.
"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick, and cooked, so to speak, to a hair's-breadth.
"And now they dove into the omelet, which was round, thick enough, and cooked to perfection."
"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick rich juice issued from it, pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell; the dish became full of it; and our fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, it made her mouth water.
"As the spoon dug into the omelet, a thick, rich liquid flowed out, appealing to both the eyes and the nose; the dish filled up with it; and our lovely friend admits that, between the aroma and the view, it made her mouth water."
"'It is an omelette au thon' (that is to say, a tunny omelet), said the Curé, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of Madame Récamier, 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it.'
"'It's an omelette au thon' (which means a tuna omelet), said the Curé, noticing with great delight the excitement of Madame Récamier, 'and not many people try it without showering it with compliments.'"
"'It surprises me not at all,' returned the beauty; 'never has so enticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables.'
"'I'm not surprised at all,' replied the beauty; 'I've never seen such an enticing omelet at any of our tables.'"
"'My cook understands them well, I think.'
"'I think my cook gets them pretty well.'"
"'Yes,' added Madame, 'I never ate anything so delightful.'"
"'Yes,' added Madame, 'I've never eaten anything so delicious.'"
Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who place confidence in him. It refreshes without exciting; and he has a theory that it makes people younger.
Then the salad arrived, which Savarin suggests to everyone who trusts his advice. It refreshes without overstimulating, and he has a theory that it makes people feel younger.
Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of three apples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then upon a little round table was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, so justly famous.
Amidst friendly conversation, dessert arrived. It included three apples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then on a small round table was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and still is, so justly famous.
"'I never,' said the Curé, 'take spirits; I always offer liqueurs to my guests but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it should please Providence to grant me that.'
"'I never,' said the Curé, 'drink spirits; I always serve liqueurs to my guests but save them for myself until I'm old, if it pleases Providence to allow me that.'"
"Finally, the charming Madame Récamier took her leave, and told all her friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of."
"Finally, the lovely Madame Récamier said her goodbyes and told all her friends about the delicious omelet she had seen and enjoyed."
And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as the Layard of the concealed treasures of Gastronomia, has succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity the details of the preparation of which so much had been said, and which he imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable.
And Brillat Savarin, in his role as the guardian of the hidden treasures of Gastronomy, has managed to bring into the light the details of the preparation that have been widely discussed, and which he believes to be as healthy as they are enjoyable.
Here follows the recipe:—
Here’s the recipe:—
OMELETTE AU THON.
1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp; [Footnote: An American writer says he has followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c., in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quiet conscience. Any fish, indeed, may be used with success.] bleach them, by putting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted. Take a piece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg, to which add a small shalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to mix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted! This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of butter, à discrétion, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresher the better); throw up the sauté of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to mix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner, endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefully on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to be reserved for recherché déjeûners, or for assemblies where amateurs meet who know how to eat well; washed down with a good old wine, it will work wonders.
1494. For 6 people, take the roe from 2 carp; [Footnote: An American writer says he has followed this recipe, using pike, shad, etc., in place of carp, and can recommend all these as well, with a clear conscience. Any fish can be successfully used.] Bleach them by putting them in boiling water with a bit of salt for 5 minutes. Take a piece of fresh tuna about the size of a hen's egg, and add a small chopped shallot; finely chop the roe and the tuna together to mix them well, then throw the mixture into a saucepan with enough high-quality butter: whip it until the butter melts! This is the specialty of the omelet. Take another piece of butter, à discrétion, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a long dish meant for the omelet; squeeze lemon juice over it, and set it on hot embers. Beat 12 eggs (the fresher, the better); mix in the sautéed roe and tuna, stirring well; then make your omelet in the usual way, trying to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Carefully spread it on the prepared dish and serve it immediately. This dish should be reserved for special lunches or gatherings where food enthusiasts come together; paired with a good old wine, it will be remarkable.
Note.—The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sauté) without allowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent them mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the centre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china will extract all the heat from the omelet.
Note.—The roe and the tuna must be sautéed without boiling them to prevent hardening, which would make it hard for them to mix well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed out in the center to let the gravy concentrate so it can be spooned. The dish should be warmed slightly; otherwise, the cold plate will draw all the heat from the omelet.
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[Illustration]
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CHAPTER XXX.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ICES, AND DESSERT DISHES.
PRESERVES.
1495. From the nature of vegetable substances, and chiefly from their not passing so rapidly into the putrescent state as animal bodies, the mode of preserving them is somewhat different, although the general principles are the same. All the means of preservation are put in practice occasionally for fruits and the various parts of vegetables, according to the nature of the species, the climate, the uses to which they are applied, &c. Some are dried, as nuts, raisins, sweet herbs, &c.; others are preserved by means of sugar, such as many fruits whose delicate juices would be lost by drying; some are preserved by means of vinegar, and chiefly used as condiments or pickles; a few also by salting, as French beans; while others are preserved in spirits. We have, however, in this place to treat of the best methods of preserving fruits. Fruit is a most important item in the economy of health; the epicurean can scarcely be said to have any luxuries without it; therefore, as it is so invaluable, when we cannot have it fresh, we must have it preserved. It has long been a desideratum to preserve fruits by some cheap method, yet by such as would keep them fit for the various culinary purposes, as making tarts and other similar dishes. The expense of preserving them with sugar is a serious objection; for, except the sugar is used in considerable quantities, the success is very uncertain. Sugar also overpowers and destroys the sub-acid taste so desirable in many fruits: these which are preserved in this manner are chiefly intended for the dessert. Fruits intended for preservation should be gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning sun upon them, if possible; they will then have their fullest flavour, and keep in good condition longer than when gathered at any other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or a refrigerator. In an icehouse it will remain fresh and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed, and be of no service for preserves.
1495. Because plant substances don't spoil as quickly as animal ones, the methods for preserving them are slightly different, although the basic principles are similar. Various preservation techniques are used for fruits and different parts of vegetables, depending on the type of plant, the climate, and their intended use. Some are dried, like nuts, raisins, and herbs; others are preserved with sugar, like many fruits, which might lose their delicate juices if dried. Some are pickled with vinegar, used mainly as condiments; a few are salted, like French beans; while others are preserved in alcohol. Here, we'll focus on the best methods for preserving fruits. Fruits are essential for good health; an epicure wouldn't consider any luxury complete without them. Therefore, when fresh fruit isn't available, we need to preserve it. Finding an affordable way to preserve fruits while ensuring they're suitable for making tarts and similar dishes has long been sought after. The cost of preserving with sugar is a significant drawback since unless sugar is used in large amounts, the results can be unpredictable. Sugar can also overpower and eliminate the pleasing tang that many fruits have, so those preserved in sugar are mainly for desserts. Fruits meant for preservation should be picked in the morning, during dry weather, ideally with the morning sun on them; this maximizes their flavor and helps them last longer than if picked at other times. Until you're ready to use them, keep the fruit in a cool place like a dairy, an ice house, or a refrigerator. In an ice house, they will stay fresh and juicy for several days. Fruit picked in wet or foggy weather will spoil quickly and won't be good for preserves.
1496. Having secured the first and most important contribution to the manufacture of preserves,—the fruit, the next consideration is the preparation of the syrup in which the fruit is to be suspended; and this requires much care. In the confectioner's art there is a great nicety in proportioning the degree of concentration of the syrup very exactly to each particular case; and they know this by signs, and express it by certain technical terms. But to distinguish these properly requires very great attention and considerable experience. The principal thing to be acquainted with is the fact, that, in proportion as the syrup is longer boiled, its water will become evaporated, and its consistency will be thicker. Great care must be taken in the management of the fire, that the syrup does not boil over, and that the boiling is not carried to such an extent as to burn the sugar.
1496. After securing the first and most important ingredient for making preserves—the fruit—the next step is preparing the syrup in which the fruit will be kept; this needs a lot of attention. In candy making, there’s a precise balance to achieving the right concentration of the syrup for each specific situation, and experts identify this using certain signs and specific technical terms. However, correctly understanding these terms requires significant focus and experience. The main thing to remember is that the longer the syrup is boiled, the more water will evaporate, making it thicker. Care must be taken to manage the heat so that the syrup doesn’t boil over or become scorched.
1497. The first degree of consistency is called the thread, which is subdivided into the little and great thread. If you dip the finger into the syrup and apply it to the thumb, the tenacity of the syrup will, on separating the finger and thumb, afford a thread, which shortly breaks: this is the little thread. If the thread, from the greater tenacity, and, consequently, greater strength of the syrup, admits of a greater extension of the finger and thumb, it is called the great thread. There are half a dozen other terms and experiments for testing the various thickness of the boiling sugar towards the consistency called caramel; but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs to the confectioner. A solution of sugar prepared by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar (the best sugar is the most economical for preserves) in one of water, and boiling this a little, affords a syrup of the right degree of strength, and which neither ferments nor crystallizes. This appears to be the degree called smooth by the confectioners, and is proper to be used for the purposes of preserves. The syrup employed should sometimes be clarified, which is done in the following manner:—Dissolve 2 lbs. of loaf sugar in a pint of water; add to this solution the white of an egg, and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan upon the fire with the solution; stir it with a wooden spatula, and, when it begins to swell and boil up, throw in some cold water or a little oil, to damp the boiling; for, as it rises suddenly, if it should boil over, it would take fire, being of a very inflammable nature. Let it boil up again; then take it off, and remove carefully the scum that has risen. Boil the solution again, throw in a little more cold water, remove the scum, and so on for three or four times successively; then strain it. It is considered to be sufficiently boiled when some taken up in a spoon pours out like oil.
1497. The first stage of consistency is called the thread, which is divided into the little thread and the great thread. If you dip your finger into the syrup and touch it to your thumb, the syrup's stickiness will produce a thread when you separate your finger and thumb, which will break shortly after; this is the little thread. If the thread, due to the syrup's higher stickiness and strength, allows for a greater stretch of your finger and thumb, it is called the great thread. There are several other terms and tests for checking the different thicknesses of boiling sugar, referred to as caramel; however, that aspect of sugar boiling is the confectioner's domain. A sugar solution made by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar (the best quality sugar is the most cost-effective for preserves) in one part of water and boiling it slightly gives a syrup with the right strength that neither ferments nor crystallizes. This is regarded as the degree referred to as smooth by confectioners and is suitable for making preserves. The syrup used may sometimes need to be clarified, which is done as follows: Dissolve 2 lbs. of loaf sugar in a pint of water; add the white of an egg to this solution and mix it well. Place the preserving pan on the heat with the solution; stir it with a wooden spatula and, when it starts to swell and boil, add some cold water or a little oil to dampen the boiling; as it bubbles up quickly, if it spills over, it could ignite because it is highly flammable. Let it boil again; then take it off the heat and carefully remove the scum that has formed. Boil the solution again, add a bit more cold water, remove the scum, and repeat this three or four times in total; then strain it. It is considered sufficiently boiled when, if taken up in a spoon, it pours out like oil.
1498. Although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation, and is, in fact, the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous stage of that process, yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity be sufficient to constitute a very strong syrup: hence, syrups are used to preserve fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes they would undergo if left to themselves. Before sugar was in use, honey was employed to preserve many vegetable productions, though this substance has now given way to the juice of the sugar-cane.
1498. Even though sugar ferments easily and is the only substance that can go through the vinous stage of fermentation, it won't ferment at all if there's enough of it to make a very strong syrup. That's why syrups are used to preserve fruits and other vegetables from the changes they would experience if left alone. Before sugar was commonly used, honey was used to preserve many plant products, but this has now been replaced by sugarcane juice.
1499. The fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are, apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds, and pears. As an example, take some apricots not too ripe, make a small slit at the stem end, and push out the stone; simmer them in water till they are softened and about half done, and afterwards throw them into cold water. When they have cooled, take them out and drain them. Put the apricots into the pie-serving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them; let them boil up three or four times, and then skim them; remove them from the fire, pour them into an earthen pan, and let them cool till next day. Boil them up three days successively, skimming each time, and they will then be finished and in a state fit to be put into pots for use. After each bailing, it is proper to examine into the state of the syrup when cold; if too thin, it will bear additional boiling; if too thick, it may be lowered with more syrup of the usual standard. The reason why the fruit is emptied out of the preserving-pan into an earthen pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts upon the copper, of which the preserving-pans are usually made. From this example the process of preserving fruits by syrup will be easily comprehended. The first object is to soften the fruit by blanching or boiling it in water, in order that the syrup by which it is preserved may penetrate through its substance.
1499. The best fruits for preserving in syrup are apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds, and pears. For example, take some not-too-ripe apricots, make a small slit at the stem end, and remove the stone. Simmer them in water until they soften and are about halfway cooked, then transfer them to cold water. Once they’ve cooled, take them out and drain them. Place the apricots in a pie-serving pan with enough syrup to cover them; let them boil three or four times, then skim off the foam. Remove them from the heat, pour them into an earthen pan, and let them cool overnight. Boil them three days in a row, skimming each time, and they will be ready to store in jars for later use. After each boiling, check the syrup’s consistency when it’s cold; if it’s too thin, you can boil it more; if it’s too thick, add more syrup to achieve the usual consistency. The reason the fruit is transferred from the preserving pan to an earthen pan is that the acid in the fruit reacts with the copper that the preserving pans are usually made of. This example makes the process of preserving fruits in syrup easy to understand. The primary goal is to soften the fruit by blanching or boiling it in water so that the syrup can penetrate its flesh.
1500. Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, lose much of their peculiar and delicate flavour, as, for instance, pine-apples; and this inconvenience may, in some instances, be remedied by preserving them without heat. Cut the fruit in slices about one fifth of an inch thick, strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of a jar, and put the slices on it. Put more sugar on this, and then another layer of the slices, and so on till the jar is full. Place the jar with the fruit up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there till the sugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, removing the scum as it rises. Lastly, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar, or cork and wax it.
1500. Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, lose a lot of their unique and delicate flavor, like pineapples; and this problem can sometimes be fixed by preserving them without heat. Cut the fruit into slices about one-fifth of an inch thick, sprinkle powdered sugar about an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of a jar, and place the slices on top. Add more sugar on top of this, then another layer of slices, and continue this process until the jar is full. Put the jar with the fruit submerged to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there until the sugar is completely dissolved, which may take around half an hour, removing any scum that forms. Finally, cover the mouth of the jar with a wet bladder, or seal it with a cork and wax.
1501. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted into dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, and then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six or eight hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept in a dry situation, in drawers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavour. In this way it is, also, that orange and lemon chips are preserved.
1501. Any fruits that have been preserved in syrup can be turned into dry preserves by first draining the syrup and then drying them in a stove or a low oven. Add a bit of powdered sugar, which will slowly soak into the fruit as the liquid from the syrup evaporates. They should be dried on a sieve in the stove or oven, and turned every six to eight hours, sifting fresh powdered sugar over them each time they are turned. Afterward, store them in a dry place in drawers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole like this, in bunches, look really nice and taste great. This is also how you can preserve orange and lemon slices.
1502. Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes are of the same nature, and are now in very general request. They are prepared without difficulty, by attending to a very few directions; they are somewhat expensive, but may be kept without spoiling for a considerable time. Marmalades and jams differ little from each other: they are preserves of a half-liquid consistency, made by boiling the pulp of fruits, and sometimes part of the rinds, with sugar. The appellation of marmalade is applied to those confitures which are composed of the firmer fruits, as pineapples or the rinds of oranges; whereas jams are made of the more juicy berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, &c. Fruit pastes are a kind of marmalades, consisting of the pulp of fruits, first evaporated to a proper consistency, and afterwards boiled with sugar. The mixture is then poured into a mould, or spread on sheets of tin, and subsequently dried in the oven or stove till it has acquired the state of a paste. From a sheet of this paste, strips may be cut and formed into any shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, &c. Jams require the same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade; the slightest degree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste, and if they are not boiled sufficiently, they will not keep. That they may keep, it is necessary not to be sparing of sugar.
1502. Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes are quite similar and are currently in high demand. They are easy to make by following just a few straightforward steps; they are somewhat pricey, but can be stored for a long time without spoiling. Marmalades and jams are very similar: they are semi-liquid preserves made by boiling fruit pulp, sometimes with parts of the rinds, along with sugar. The term marmalade refers to those preserves made from firmer fruits, like pineapples or orange rinds, while jams are made from juicier berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, and mulberries. Fruit pastes are a type of marmalade, made by first evaporating fruit pulp to achieve the right consistency and then boiling it with sugar. The mixture is then poured into a mold or spread on sheets of tin, and later dried in the oven or stove until it becomes a paste. From a sheet of this paste, strips can be cut and shaped into various forms, like knots or rings. Making jams requires the same careful boiling as marmalades; even a slight burn can give them an unpleasant taste, and if they aren't cooked enough, they won't last. To ensure they stay good, it's important not to skimp on sugar.
1503. In all the operations for preserve-making, when the preserving-pan is used, it should not be placed on the fire, but on a trivet, unless the jam is made on a hot plate, when this is not necessary. If the pan is placed close on to the fire, the preserve is very liable to burn, and the colour and flavour be consequently spoiled.
1503. In all the processes for making preserves, when using the preserving pan, it shouldn't be placed directly on the fire but on a trivet, unless the jam is being made on a hot plate, in which case this isn't necessary. If the pan is positioned too close to the fire, the preserve is likely to burn, which can ruin its color and flavor.
1504. Fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined with sugar, concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency that the liquid, upon cooling, assumes the form of a tremulous jelly.
1504. Fruit jellies are mixtures of fruit juices combined with sugar, concentrated by boiling until they reach a consistency that allows the liquid to turn into a wobbly jelly when cooled.
1505. Before fruits are candied, they must first be boiled in syrup, after which they are taken out and dried on a stove, or before the fire; the syrup is then to be concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, and the fruit dipped in it, and again laid on the stove to dry and candy: they are then to be put into boxes, and kept dry.
1505. Before fruits are candied, they should first be boiled in syrup. After that, they are taken out and dried on a stove or in front of the fire. The syrup then needs to be concentrated or boiled to a candy consistency, and the fruit is dipped in it and laid out again to dry and candy. Finally, they should be placed in boxes and kept dry.
1506. Conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniform mass with refined sugar, and they are intended to preserve the virtues and properties of recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits, unaltered, and as near as possible to what they were when fresh gathered, and to give them an agreeable taste.
1506. Conserves are made from fresh vegetables that are crushed into a smooth mixture with refined sugar. They are meant to maintain the qualities and characteristics of fresh flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits without changing them much, keeping them as close as possible to their original fresh state, while also providing a pleasant flavor.
1507. The last-mentioned, but not the least-important preparation of fruit, is the compôte, a confiture made at the moment of need, and with much less sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves. They are most wholesome things, suitable to most stomachs which cannot accommodate themselves to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar: they are the happy medium, and far better than ordinary stewed fruit.
1507. The last but not least important way to prepare fruit is the compôte, a type of jam made on demand, using much less sugar than what is usually added to preserves. They are very healthy and suitable for most people who can't handle raw fruit or a lot of sugar: they provide a happy medium and are much better than regular stewed fruit.
CONFECTIONARY.
1508. In speaking of confectionary, it should be remarked that all the various preparations above named come, strictly speaking, under that head; for the various fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, which, when boiled with sugar, were formerly employed in pharmacy as well as for sweetmeats, were called confections, from the Latin word conficere, 'to make up;' but the term confectionary embraces a very large class indeed of sweet food, many kinds of which should not be attempted in the ordinary cuisine. The thousand and one ornamental dishes that adorn the tables of the wealthy should be purchased from the confectioner: they cannot profitably be made at home. Apart from these, cakes, biscuits, and tarts, &c., the class of sweetmeats called confections may be thus classified:—1. Liquid confects, or fruits either whole or in pieces, preserved by being immersed in a fluid transparent syrup; as the liquid confects of apricots, green citrons, and many foreign fruits. 2. Dry confects are those which, after having been boiled in the syrup, are taken out and put to dry in an oven, as citron and orange-peel, &c. 3. Marmalade, jams, and pastes, a kind of soft compounds made of the pulp of fruits or other vegetable substances, beat up with sugar or honey; such as oranges, apricots, pears, &c. 4. Jellies are the juices of fruits boiled with sugar to a pretty thick consistency, so as, upon cooling, to form a trembling jelly; as currant, gooseberry, apple jelly, &c. 5. Conserves are a kind of dry confects, made by beating up flowers, fruits, &c., with sugar, not dissolved. 6. Candies are fruits candied over with sugar after having been boiled in the syrup.
1508. When talking about sweets, it's important to note that all the different preparations mentioned above fall under this category. The various fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices that were once boiled with sugar for both medicinal purposes and treats were referred to as confections, deriving from the Latin word conficere, meaning 'to make up.' However, the term confectionary covers a very broad range of sweet foods, many of which shouldn't be attempted in everyday cooking. The extravagant decorative dishes that grace the tables of the rich should be bought from a confectioner, as making them at home isn't worth the effort. Besides these, cakes, cookies, tarts, etc., the group known as confections can be categorized as follows: 1. Liquid confects, which are whole or cut fruits preserved by being immersed in a clear syrup, such as liquid confects of apricots, green citrons, and many exotic fruits. 2. Dry confects are those boiled in syrup and then dried in an oven, like citron and orange peel, etc. 3. Marmalade, jams, and pastes are soft mixtures made of fruit pulp or other plant materials blended with sugar or honey, such as oranges, apricots, and pears. 4. Jellies are made from fruit juices boiled with sugar until they reach a thick consistency, setting into a wobbly jelly upon cooling, like currant, gooseberry, and apple jelly. 5. Conserves are a type of dry confect made by mixing flowers, fruits, etc., with undissolved sugar. 6. Candies are fruits coated with sugar after being boiled in syrup.
DESSERT DISHES.
1509. With moderns the dessert is not so profuse, nor does it hold the same relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients,—the Romans more especially. On ivory tables they would spread hundreds of different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts and cakes, as substitutes for the more substantial comestibles with which the guests were satiated. However, as late as the reigns of our two last Georges, fabulous sums were often expended upon fanciful desserts. The dessert certainly repays, in its general effect, the expenditure upon it of much pains; and it may be said, that if there be any poetry at all in meals, or the process of feeding, there is poetry in the dessert, the materials for which should be selected with taste, and, of course, must depend, in a great measure, upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes, peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges, almonds, raisins, figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, &c. &c., all kinds of dried fruits, and choice and delicately-flavoured cakes and biscuits, make up the dessert, together with the most costly and recherché wines. The shape of the dishes varies at different periods, the prevailing fashion at present being oval and circular dishes on stems. The patterns and colours are also subject to changes of fashion; some persons selecting china, chaste in pattern and colour; others, elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems, with gilt edges. The beauty of the dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to enhance the splendour of the plate. The general mode of putting a dessert on table, now the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to place them down the middle of the table, a tall and short dish alternately; the fresh fruits being arranged on the tall dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c., on small round or oval glass plates. The garnishing needs especial attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits with nicely-arranged foliage is very charming. The garnish par excellence for dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvellous effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense of coolness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing effect; and for winter desserts, the bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In town, the expense and difficulty of obtaining natural foliage is great, but paper and composite leaves are to be purchased at an almost nominal price. Mixed fruits of the larger sort are now frequently served on one dish. This mode admits of the display of much taste in the arrangement of the fruit: for instance, a pine in the centre of the dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and colours, mixed with pears, rosy-cheeked apples, all arranged with a due regard to colour, have a very good effect. Again, apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes, hanging from the border of the dish in a négligé sort of manner, with a large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples. A dessert would not now be considered complete without candied and preserved fruits and confections. The candied fruits may be purchased at a less cost than they can be manufactured at home. They are preserved abroad in most ornamental and elegant forms. And since, from the facilities of travel, we have become so familiar with the tables of the French, chocolate in different forms is indispensable to our desserts.
1509. Nowadays, dessert isn't as abundant, nor does it have the same role in a meal as it did for the ancients, especially the Romans. They would set out hundreds of different kinds of fresh, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts, and cakes on ivory tables as substitutes for the heavier foods that filled the guests. However, even as recently as the reigns of the last two Georges, enormous amounts of money were often spent on elaborate desserts. Indeed, the dessert definitely justifies the effort and cost that goes into it; one might say that if there's any artistry in meals or the act of dining, it resides in dessert, which should be chosen with care and largely reflect the season. Pineapples, melons, grapes, peaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges, almonds, raisins, figs, walnuts, hazelnuts, medlar, cherries, and so on, along with all sorts of dried fruits and finely flavored cakes and biscuits, constitute the dessert, accompanied by the finest and most sought-after wines. The shapes of serving dishes have varied over time, with the current trend being oval and circular dishes on stems. The styles and colors also change, with some preferring simple-patterned and colored china, while others choose elegantly shaped glass dishes with gilt edges. The visual appeal of dessert services at affluent tables adds to the overall splendor of the tableware. The contemporary way to present dessert, now that elegant tazzas are in vogue, is to place them down the center of the table, alternating between tall and short dishes. Fresh fruits are arranged in the tall dishes, while dried fruits, bonbons, and similar treats are placed on small round or oval glass plates. The garnishing deserves special attention, as the contrast of brightly colored fruits with artfully arranged foliage is quite appealing. The ideal garnish for dessert is the ice-plant; its crystallized dewdrops create a stunning effect in the height of summer, lending a refreshing feel to the fruit it surrounds. Double-edged mallow, strawberry, and vine leaves also look appealing, and for winter desserts, bay, cuba, and laurel are occasionally used. In cities, it's costly and difficult to find natural foliage, but paper and artificial leaves can be bought at a very low price. Larger mixed fruits are now often served on a single dish, allowing for an aesthetically pleasing arrangement: for example, a pineapple in the center surrounded by large plums of various kinds and colors mixed with pears and rosy apples, all arranged with attention to color, looks very good. Apples and pears also look nice mixed with plums and grapes, hanging casually from the edge of the dish, with a large bunch of similar fruit sitting on top of the apples. Today, a dessert wouldn't be considered complete without candied and preserved fruits and sweets. Candied fruits can be bought more cheaply than they can be made at home, and they are preserved abroad in many attractive and stylish forms. Additionally, since traveling has allowed us to become familiar with French cuisine, chocolate in various forms has become essential to our desserts.
ICES.
510. Ices are composed, it is scarcely necessary to say, of congealed cream or water, combined sometimes with liqueurs or other flavouring ingredients, or more generally with the juices of fruits. At desserts, or at some evening parties, ices are scarcely to be dispensed with. The principal utensils required for making ice-creams are ice-tubs, freezing-pots, spaddles, and a cellaret. The tub must be large enough to contain about a bushel of ice, pounded small, when brought out of the ice-house, and mixed very carefully with either salt, nitre, or soda. The freezing-pot is best made of pewter. If it be of tin, as is sometimes the case, the congelation goes on too rapidly in it for the thorough intermingling of its contents, on which the excellence of the ice greatly depends. The spaddle is generally made of copper, kept bright and clean. The cellaret is a tin vessel, in which ices are kept for a short time from dissolving. The method to be pursued in the freezing process must be attended to. When the ice-tub is prepared with fresh-pounded ice and salt, the freezing-pot is put into it up to its cover. The articles to be congealed are then poured into it and covered over; but to prevent the ingredients from separating and the heaviest of them from falling to the bottom of the mould, it is requisite to turn the freezing-pot round and round by the handle, so as to keep its contents moving until the congelation commences. As soon as this is perceived (the cover of the pot being occasionally taken off for the purpose of noticing when freezing takes place), the cover is immediately closed over it, ice is put upon it, and it is left in this state till it is served. The use of the spaddle is to stir up and remove from the sides of the freezing pot the cream, which in the shaking may have washed against it, and by stirring it in with the rest, to prevent waste of it occurring. Any negligence in stirring the contents of the freezing-pot before congelation takes place, will destroy the whole: either the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves the ice insufficiently sweetened, or lumps are formed, which disfigure and discolour it.
510. Ices are made from frozen cream or water, often mixed with liqueurs or other flavorings, and more commonly with fruit juices. At desserts or some evening parties, ices are almost essential. The main tools needed for making ice creams are ice tubs, freezing pots, paddles, and a cellaret. The tub needs to be large enough to hold about a bushel of crushed ice when taken from the ice house and carefully mixed with either salt, nitre, or soda. The best freezing pot is made of pewter. If it’s made of tin, which sometimes happens, the freezing happens too quickly for the contents to mix well, which is crucial for the quality of the ice. The paddle is usually made of copper and kept shiny and clean. The cellaret is a tin container used to keep ices from melting for a short time. The method for the freezing process is important. Once the ice tub is filled with freshly crushed ice and salt, the freezing pot is placed inside up to its lid. The mixture to be frozen is then poured in and covered, but to keep the ingredients from separating and the heavier ones from sinking to the bottom of the mold, it’s necessary to turn the freezing pot by its handle to keep things moving until freezing begins. As soon as freezing starts (removing the lid occasionally to check), the lid is closed tightly, more ice is added on top, and it’s left that way until served. The paddle's purpose is to stir and remove any cream that may have stuck to the sides of the freezing pot during shaking, allowing it to mix in with the rest and prevent waste. Any carelessness in stirring the contents of the freezing pot before freezing will ruin everything: either the sugar settles at the bottom, leaving the ice not sweet enough, or lumps form, ruining its appearance and color.
1511. The aged, the delicate, and children should abstain from ices or iced beverages; even the strong and healthy should partake of them in moderation. They should be taken immediately after the repast, or some hours after, because the taking these substances during the process of digestion is apt to provoke indisposition. It is necessary, then, that this function should have scarcely commenced, or that it should be completely finished, before partaking of ices. It is also necessary to abstain from them when persons are very warm, or immediately after taking violent exercise, as in some cases they have produced illnesses which have ended fatally.
1511. Older adults, those who are fragile, and children should avoid ices or iced drinks; even strong and healthy individuals should consume them in moderation. They should be enjoyed right after a meal or a few hours later, because consuming these items during digestion can lead to discomfort. It’s important that digestion has barely started, or is completely done, before having ices. Additionally, people should avoid them when they're very hot or right after intense exercise, as in some cases, this has resulted in serious health issues that have ended badly.
[Do ladies know to whom they are indebted for the introduction of ices, which all the fair sex are passionately fond of?—To Catherine de' Medici. Will not this fact cover a multitude of sins committed by the instigator of St. Bartholomew ?]
[Do women know who they have to thank for the introduction of ice cream, which all women absolutely love?—Catherine de' Medici. Doesn't this fact excuse a lot of the wrongs committed by the mastermind behind St. Bartholomew?]
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXXI.
TO MAKE SYRUP FOR COMPOTES, &c.
TO MAKE SYRUP FOR COMPOTES, etc.
1512. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of sugar allow 1-1/2 pint of water.
1512. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of sugar, use 1.5 pints of water.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises: the syrup is then ready for the fruit. The articles boiled in this syrup will not keep for any length of time, it being suitable only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately. A larger proportion of sugar must be added for a syrup intended to keep.
Method.—Boil the sugar and water together for 15 minutes, carefully skimming off the foam as it forms: the syrup is then ready for the fruit. The items cooked in this syrup won't last long, as it's only meant for dishes that are to be eaten right away. If you want a syrup that will keep, you need to add more sugar.
Time.—1/4 hour.
Time.—15 minutes.
TO CLARIFY SUGAR OR SYRUP.
1513. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water and 1/2 the white of an egg.
1513. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of sugar, use 1/2 pint of water and 1/2 of the egg white.
Mode.—Put the sugar, water, and the white of the egg, which should, be well beaten, into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan; and do not put it on the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Then place it on the fire, and when it boils, throw in a teacupful of cold water, and do not stir the sugar after this is added. Bring it to the boiling-point again, and then place the pan by the side of the fire, for the preparation to settle. Remove all the scum, and the sugar will be ready for use. The scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what syrup runs from it may be boiled up again: this must also be well skimmed.
Mode.—Combine the sugar, water, and well-beaten egg white in a preserving pan or a lined saucepan. Don’t place it on the heat until the sugar has dissolved. Then, put it on the heat, and when it starts to boil, add a teacupful of cold water, making sure not to stir the sugar after adding it. Bring it back to a boil, then move the pan to the side of the heat to let it settle. Remove all the scum, and the sugar will be ready to use. The scum should be placed on a sieve so that any syrup that drips can be boiled again; this should also be well skimmed.
Time.—20 minutes for the sugar to dissolve; 5 minutes to boil.
Time.—20 minutes for the sugar to dissolve; 5 minutes to boil.
Note.—The above two recipes are those used in the preparation of dishes usually made at home. There are many degrees of boiling sugar, which process requires great care, attention, and experience. Caramel sugar, which makes an elegant cover for sweetmeats, is difficult to prepare, and is best left to an experienced confectioner. We give the recipe, for those of our readers who care to attempt the operation.
Note.—The two recipes above are the ones typically used for making dishes at home. There are various levels of boiling sugar, and this process needs a lot of care, attention, and experience. Caramel sugar, which adds a nice finish to sweets, is hard to make and is best left to a skilled confectioner. We're providing the recipe for those readers who would like to give it a try.
TO BOIL SUGAR TO CARAMEL.
1514. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of lump sugar allow 1 gill of spring water.
1514. INGREDIENTS.—For each pound of lump sugar, use 1 gill of spring water.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together very quickly over a clear fire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep it boiling until the sugar snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree; then squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and let it remain an instant on the fire. Set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is then ready for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with this sugar, which with a fork should be spread over them in fine threads or network. A dish of light pastry, tastefully arranged, looks very prettily with this sugar spun lightly over it. The sugar must be carefully watched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless the cook is very experienced and thoroughly understands her business, it is scarcely worth while to attempt to make this elaborate ornament, as it may be purchased quite as economically at a confectioner's, if the failures in the preparation are taken into consideration.
Mode.—Quickly boil the sugar and water together over a clear flame, skimming it very carefully as soon as it starts to boil. Keep it boiling until a little dropped into a pan of cold water snaps. If it stays hard, the sugar has reached the right point; then squeeze in some lemon juice and let it sit on the heat for a moment. Place the pan into another with cold water, and the caramel is ready to use. The insides of well-oiled molds are often decorated with this sugar, which should be spread over them with a fork in fine threads or a network. A dish of light pastry, arranged tastefully, looks lovely with this sugar lightly spun over it. The sugar must be watched closely and removed the moment it’s done. Unless the cook is very experienced and fully understands the process, it's probably not worth trying to make this intricate decoration since it can be bought just as cheaply from a candy store, considering the potential for mistakes in preparation.
COMPOTE OF APPLES.
(Soyer's Recipe,—a Dessert Dish.)
(Soyer's Recipe - a Dessert.)
1515. INGREDIENTS.—6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of lump sugar, 1/2 pint of water.
1515. INGREDIENTS.—6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of sugar lumps, 1/2 pint of water.
[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF APPLES.]
[Illustration: APPLE SAUCE.]
Mode.—Select the apples of a moderate size, peel them, cut them in halves, remove the cores, and rub each piece over with a little lemon. Put the sugar and water together into a lined saucepan, and let them boil until forming a thickish syrup, when lay in the apples with the rind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice of the same. Let the apples simmer till tender; then take them out very carefully, drain them on a sieve, and reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes. When both are cold, arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, pour over the syrup, and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied citron. Smaller apples may be dressed in the same manner: they should not be divided in half, but peeled and the cores pushed out with a vegetable-cutter.
Mode.—Choose apples that are medium-sized, peel them, cut them in half, remove the cores, and rub each piece with a little lemon. Combine the sugar and water in a lined saucepan, and bring them to a boil until they form a thicker syrup. Then add the apples along with thin strips of lemon peel and the lemon juice. Let the apples simmer until they're tender; then carefully remove them, drain them in a sieve, and reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes. Once both are cool, arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, pour the syrup over them, and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied citron. You can prepare smaller apples the same way: just peel them and remove the cores with a vegetable-cutter instead of cutting them in half.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the sugar and water together; from 15 to 25 minutes to simmer the apples.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the sugar and water together; 15 to 25 minutes to simmer the apples.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6p.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from July to March.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. In season from July to March.
APPLE GINGER.
(A Dessert Dish.)
(A Dessert Dish.)
1516 INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of any kind of hard apples, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 oz. of tincture of ginger.
1516 INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of any type of firm apples, 2 lbs. of granulated sugar, 1.5 pints of water, 1 oz. of ginger extract.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water until they form a rich syrup, adding the ginger when it boils up. Pare, core, and cut the apples into pieces; dip them in cold water to preserve the colour, and boil them in the syrup until transparent; but be careful not to let them break. Put the pieces of apple into jars, pour over the syrup, and carefully exclude the air, by well covering them. It will remain good some time, if kept in a dry place.
Method.—Boil the sugar and water until they turn into a thick syrup, adding the ginger when it starts to boil. Peel, core, and chop the apples into pieces; dip them in cold water to keep their color, and boil them in the syrup until they become transparent; but be careful not to let them fall apart. Place the apple pieces in jars, pour the syrup over them, and make sure to keep the air out by sealing them tightly. They will last for a while if stored in a dry place.
Time.—From 5 to 10 minutes to boil the syrup; about 1/2 hour to simmer the apples.
Time.—Boil the syrup for 5 to 10 minutes; simmer the apples for about 30 minutes.
Average cost, 2s.
Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Good for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable.—Make this in September, October, or November.
In Season.—Make this in September, October, or November.
APPLE JAM.
1517. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit weighed after being pared, cored, and sliced, allow 3/4 lb. of preserving-sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon.
1517. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit measured after being peeled, cored, and sliced, use 3/4 pound of preserving sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, and the juice of 1/2 lemon.
Mode.—Peel the apples, core and slice them very thin, and be particular that they are all the same sort. Put them into a jar, stand this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let the apples stew until quite tender. Previously to putting the fruit into the jar, weigh it, to ascertain the proportion of sugar that may be required. Put the apples into a preserving-pan, crush the sugar to small lumps, and add it, with the grated lemon-rind and juice, to the apples. Simmer these over the fire for 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time the jam begins to simmer properly; remove the scum as it rises, and when the jam is done, put it into pots for use. Place a piece of oiled paper over the jam, and to exclude the air, cover the pots with tissue-paper dipped in the white of an egg, and stretched over the top. This jam will keep good for a long time.
Mode.—Peel the apples, core them, and slice them very thin, making sure they are all the same variety. Place them in a jar, put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water, and let the apples stew until they're soft. Before putting the fruit into the jar, weigh it to figure out how much sugar you'll need. Transfer the apples into a preserving pan, crush the sugar into small pieces, and add it along with the grated lemon zest and juice to the apples. Simmer this over the heat for 30 minutes, starting from when the jam begins to simmer properly; remove any foam as it forms, and when the jam is finished, pour it into jars for later use. Place a piece of oiled paper over the jam, and to keep out the air, cover the jars with tissue paper dipped in egg white, stretched tightly over the top. This jam will stay good for a long time.
Time.—About 2 hours to stew in the jar; 1/2 hour to boil after the jam begins to simmer.
Time.—About 2 hours to soak in the jar; 30 minutes to boil after the jam starts to simmer.
Average cost, for this quantity, 6s.
Average cost, for this quantity, £0.30.
Sufficient.—7 or 8 lbs. of apples for 6 pots of jam.
Sufficient.—7 or 8 lbs. of apples for 6 jars of jam.
Seasonable.—Make this in September, October, or November.
Seasonable.—Make this in September, October, or November.
APPLE JELLY.
I.
1518. INGREDIENTS.—To 6 lbs. of apples allow 3 pints of water; to every quart of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;—the juice of 1/2 lemon.
1518. INGREDIENTS.—For 6 lbs. of apples, use 3 pints of water; for each quart of juice, add 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;—the juice of 1/2 lemon.
Mode.—Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and put them into a jar, with water in the above proportion. Place them in a cool oven, with the jar well covered, and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and the apples are quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. To every quart of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, which should be crushed to small lumps, and put into a preserving-pan with the juice. Boil these together for rather more than 1/2 hour, remove the scum as it rises, add the lemon-juice just before it is done, and put the jelly into pots for use. This preparation is useful for garnishing sweet dishes, and may be turned out for dessert.
Mode.—Peel, core, and slice the apples, then place them in a jar with the appropriate amount of water. Put the jar in a cool oven, making sure it’s well covered. When the juice has fully released and the apples are soft, strain them through a jelly bag. For each quart of juice, add 2 pounds of loaf sugar, crushed into small pieces, and combine it with the juice in a preserving pan. Boil them together for just over half an hour, skimming off any foam that rises. Add the lemon juice just before it's finished, and pour the jelly into jars for later use. This preparation is great for garnishing sweet dishes and can be served as dessert.
Time.—The apples to be put in the oven over-night, and left till morning; rather more than 1/2 hour to boil the jelly.
Time.—Put the apples in the oven overnight and leave them until morning; boil the jelly for a little over half an hour.
Average cost, for this quantity, 3s.
Average cost, for this quantity, 3 shillings.
Sufficient for 6 small pots of jelly.
Enough for 6 small jars of jelly.
Seasonable,—This should be made in September, October, or November.
Seasonable — This should be made in September, October, or November.
II.
1519. INGREDIENTS.—Apples, water: to every pint of syrup allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1519. INGREDIENTS.—Apples, water: for every pint of syrup, use 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Pare and cut the apples into pieces, remove the cores, and put them in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold water to cover them. Let them boil for an hour; then drain the syrup from them through a hair sieve or jelly-bag, and measure the juice; to every pint allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, and boil these together for 3/4 hour, removing every particle of scum as it rises, and keeping the jelly well stirred, that it may not burn. A little lemon-rind may be boiled with the apples, and a small quantity of strained lemon-juice may be put in the jelly just before it is done, when the flavour is liked. This jelly may be ornamented with preserved greengages, or any other preserved fruit, and will turn out very prettily for dessert. It should be stored away in small pots.
Mode.—Peel and chop the apples into pieces, remove the cores, and place them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them. Let them boil for an hour; then strain the syrup through a fine sieve or jelly bag, and measure the juice; for every pint, use 3/4 lb. of granulated sugar, and boil these together for 45 minutes, skimming off any foam that forms and stirring the jelly regularly to prevent it from burning. You can add a bit of lemon peel while boiling the apples, and a small amount of strained lemon juice can be added to the jelly just before it's finished if you like that flavor. This jelly can be decorated with preserved greengages or any other preserved fruit and will look very nice for dessert. It should be stored in small jars.
Time.—1 hour to boil the fruit and water; 3/4 hour to boil the juice with the sugar.
Time.—1 hour to boil the fruit and water; 45 minutes to boil the juice with the sugar.
Average cost, for 6 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in proportion, 3s.
Average cost, for 6 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in proportion, £0.15.
Sufficient for 6 small pots of jelly.
Enough for 6 small pots of jelly.
Seasonable.—Make this in September, October, or November.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in September, October, or November.
TO PRESERVE APPLES IN QUARTERS, in imitation of Ginger.
TO PRESERVE APPLES IN QUARTERS, like Ginger.
1520. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of apples allow 3/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of the best white ginger; 1 oz. of ginger to every 1/2 pint of water.
1520. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of apples, use 3/4 pound of sugar, 1-1/2 ounces of the best white ginger; 1 ounce of ginger for every 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Peel, core, and quarter the apples, and put the fruit, sugar, and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed jar, and let them remain for 2 days; then infuse 1 oz. of ginger in 1/2 pint of boiling water, and cover it closely, and let it remain for 1 day: this quantity of ginger and water is for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in proportion. Put the apples, &c., into a preserving-pan with the water strained from the ginger, and boil till the apples look clear and the syrup is rich, which will be in about an hour. The rind of a lemon may be added just before the apples have finished boiling; and great care must be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them into the jars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.
Mode.—Peel, core, and quarter the apples, then layer the fruit, sugar, and ginger in a wide-mouthed jar. Let them sit for 2 days. After that, steep 1 oz. of ginger in 1/2 pint of boiling water and cover it tightly, allowing it to sit for 1 day. This amount of ginger and water is meant for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients adjusted accordingly. Transfer the apples and other ingredients into a preserving pan with the water strained from the ginger, and boil until the apples are clear and the syrup is rich, which should take about an hour. You can add the rind of a lemon just before the apples are done boiling, and be careful not to break the apple pieces when putting them into the jars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.
Time.—2 days for the apples to remain in the jar with sugar, &c.; 1 day to infuse the ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples.
Time.—2 days for the apples to sit in the jar with sugar, etc.; 1 day to infuse the ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples.
Average cost, for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in proportion, 2s. 3d.
Average cost, for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in proportion, £2.15.
Sufficient.—3 lbs. should fill 3 moderate-sized jars.
Sufficient.—3 lbs. should fill 3 regular-sized jars.
Seasonable.—This should be made in September, October, or November.
Seasonable.—This should be made in September, October, or November.
COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.
(An elegant Dish.)
(A classy dish.)
1521. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of syrup No. 1512, 12 green apricots.
1521. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of syrup No. 1512, 12 green apricots.
Mode.—Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it is ready, put in the apricots whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let them break; take them out carefully, arrange them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it over the apricots, and, when cold, serve.
Mode.—Make the syrup using recipe No. 1512, and when it's ready, add the apricots while the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very gently until they're tender, being careful not to let them break; take them out carefully, place them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a bit, pour it over the apricots, and serve once it's cold.
Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes to simmer the apricots.
Time.—Simmer the apricots for 15 to 20 minutes.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in June and July, with green apricots.
In season in June and July, with green apricots.
APRICOT JAM or MARMALADE.
APRICOT JAM or MARMALADE.
1522. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of ripe apricots, weighed after being skinned and stoned, allow 1 lb. of sugar.
1522. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of ripe apricots, weighed after being peeled and pitted, use 1 pound of sugar.
Mode.—Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as possible, break them in half, and remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, and to every lb. allow the same proportion of loaf sugar. Pound the sugar very finely in a mortar, strew it over the apricots, which should be placed on dishes, and let them remain for 12 hours. Break the stones, blanch the kernels, and put them with the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan. Let these simmer very gently until clear; take out the pieces of apricot singly as they become so, and, as fast as the scum rises, carefully remove it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour over them the syrup and kernels, cover the jam with pieces of paper dipped in the purest salad-oil, and stretch over the top of the jars tissue-paper, cut about 2 inches larger and brushed over with the white of an egg: when dry, it will be perfectly hard and air-tight.
Method.—Peel the ripe apricots as thinly as you can, split them in half, and take out the pits. Weigh the fruit, and for every pound, use the same amount of granulated sugar. Grind the sugar very finely in a mortar, sprinkle it over the apricots placed on dishes, and let them sit for 12 hours. Crack the pits, blanch the kernels, and add them to the sugar and fruit in a preserving pan. Allow these to simmer very gently until clear; remove the pieces of apricot one by one as they become clear, and carefully skim off any foam that rises. Transfer the apricots to small jars, pour the syrup and kernels over them, cover the jam with pieces of paper soaked in the purest salad oil, and place tissue paper on top of the jars, cut about 2 inches larger and brushed with egg white: when it dries, it will be completely hard and airtight.
Time.—12 hours sprinkled with sugar; about 3/4 hour to boil the jam.
Time.—12 hours with some sugar added; about 45 minutes to cook the jam.
Average cost.—When cheap, apricots may be purchased for preserving at about 1s. 6d. per gallon.
Average cost.—When they're inexpensive, apricots can be bought for preserving at around 1s. 6d. per gallon.
Sufficient,—10 lbs. of fruit for 12 pots of jam.
Sufficient—10 lbs. of fruit for 12 jars of jam.
Seasonable.—Make this in August or September.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in August or September.
BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES.
1523. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1513, barberries.
1523. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1513, barberries.
Mode.—Prepare some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches long and 1/4 inch wide, and tie the fruit on to these in nice bunches. Have ready some clear syrup, made by recipe No. 1513; put in the barberries, and simmer them in it for 2 successive days, boiling them for nearly 1/2 hour each day, and covering them each time with the syrup when cold. When the fruit looks perfectly clear, it is sufficiently done, and should be stored away in pots, with the syrup poured over, or the fruit may be candied.
Mode.—Cut some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches long and 1/4 inch wide, and tie the fruit onto these in nice bunches. Prepare some clear syrup using recipe No. 1513; add the barberries to it, and let them simmer for 2 consecutive days, boiling them for nearly 1/2 hour each day, and covering them with the syrup when it's cool each time. When the fruit looks completely clear, it's done and should be stored in jars, with the syrup poured over, or the fruit can be candied.
Time.—1/2 hour to simmer each day.
Time.—30 minutes to simmer each day.
Seasonable in autumn.
Autumn vibes.
Note.—The berries in their natural state make a very pretty garnishing for dishes, and may even be used for the same purpose, preserved as above, and look exceedingly nice on sweet dishes.
Note.—The berries in their natural state make a very attractive garnish for dishes and can also be used for the same reason when preserved as mentioned above, looking great on sweet dishes.
TO MAKE BARLEY-SUGAR.
1524. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 the white of an egg.
1524. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of sugar, use 1/2 pint of water and 1/2 of the egg white.
Mode.—Put the sugar into a well-tinned saucepan, with the water, and, when the former is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire, adding the well-beaten egg before the mixture gets warm, and stir it well together. When it boils, remove the scum as it rises, and keep it boiling until no more appears, and the syrup looks perfectly clear; then strain it through a fine sieve or muslin bag, and put it back into the saucepan. Boil it again like caramel, until it is brittle, when a little is dropped in a basin of cold water: it is then sufficiently boiled. Add a little lemon-juice and a few drops of essence of lemon, and let it stand for a minute or two. Have ready a marble slab or large dish, rubbed over with salad-oil; pour on it the sugar, and cut it into strips with a pair of scissors: these strips should then be twisted, and the barley-sugar stored away in a very dry place. It may be formed into lozenges or drops, by dropping the sugar in a very small quantity at a time on to the oiled slab or dish.
Mode.—Combine the sugar and water in a well-tinned saucepan. Once the sugar has dissolved, place it over moderate heat, adding the well-beaten egg before the mixture warms up, and stir it thoroughly. When it starts boiling, remove any foam that rises to the surface, and let it continue boiling until no more foam appears and the syrup is completely clear. Then strain it through a fine sieve or muslin bag and return it to the saucepan. Boil it again like caramel until it becomes brittle when a little is dropped into a basin of cold water—this indicates it's boiled enough. Add a splash of lemon juice and a few drops of lemon essence, and allow it to sit for a minute or two. Prepare a marble slab or large dish rubbed with salad oil; pour the sugar onto it and cut it into strips using scissors. Twist these strips and store the barley sugar in a very dry place. You can also form it into lozenges or drops by dropping small amounts of sugar onto the oiled slab or dish.
Time.—1/4 hour.
Time.—15 minutes.
Average cost, 7d.
Average cost, 7 days.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 sticks.
Enough for 5 or 6 sticks.
CARROT JAM TO IMITATE APRICOT PRESERVE.
1525. INGREDIENTS.—Carrots; to every lb. of carrot pulp allow 1 lb. of pounded sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained juice of 2, 6 chopped bitter almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1525. INGREDIENTS.—Carrots; for every lb. of carrot pulp, use 1 lb. of ground sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained juice of 2 lemons, 6 chopped bitter almonds, and 2 tablespoons of brandy.
Mode.—Select young carrots; wash and scrape them clean, cut them into round pieces, put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them, and let them simmer until perfectly soft; then beat them through a sieve. Weigh the pulp, and to every lb. allow the above ingredients. Put the pulp into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and let this boil for 5 minutes, stirring and skimming all the time. When cold, add the lemon-rind and juice, almonds and brandy; mix these well with the jam; then put it into pots, which must be well covered and kept in a dry place. The brandy may be omitted, but the preserve will then not keep: with the brandy it will remain good for months.
Method.—Choose young carrots; wash and scrub them clean, cut them into round pieces, and place them in a saucepan with enough water to cover them. Let them simmer until they are completely soft; then strain them through a sieve. Weigh the pulp, and for every pound, use the ingredients listed above. Place the pulp into a preserving pan with the sugar, and let it boil for 5 minutes, stirring and skimming continuously. Once cooled, add the lemon zest and juice, almonds, and brandy; mix these well into the jam. Then put it into jars, which should be well-sealed and stored in a dry place. You can skip the brandy, but the preserve won't last as long; with the brandy, it will stay good for months.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to boil the carrots; 5 minutes to simmer the pulp.
Time.—About 45 minutes to boil the carrots; 5 minutes to simmer the pulp.
Average cost, 1s. 2d. for 1 lb. of pulp, with the other ingredients in proportion.
Average cost, 1s. 2d. for 1 lb. of pulp, with the other ingredients in proportion.
Sufficient to fill 3 pots.
Enough to fill 3 pots.
Seasonable from July to December.
In season from July to December.
TO MAKE CHERRY BRANDY.
1536. INGREDIENTS.—Morella cherries, good brandy; to every lb. of cherries allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar.
1536. INGREDIENTS.—Morella cherries, good brandy; for every pound of cherries, use 3 ounces of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Have ready some glass bottles, which must be perfectly dry. Ascertain that the cherries are not too ripe and are freshly gathered, and cut off about half of the stalks. Put them into the bottles, with the above proportion of sugar to every lb. of fruit; strew this in between the cherries, and, when the bottles are nearly full, pour in sufficient brandy to reach just below the cork. A few peach or apricot kernels will add much to their flavour, or a few blanched bitter almonds. Put corks or bungs into the bottles, tie over them a piece of bladder, and store away in a dry place. The cherries will be fit to eat in 2 or 3 months, and will remain good for years. They are liable to shrivel and become tough if too much sugar be added to them.
Mode.—Have some glass bottles ready, making sure they are completely dry. Check that the cherries are not overly ripe and are freshly picked, then cut off about half of the stems. Place them in the bottles, adding the right amount of sugar for every pound of fruit; sprinkle this between the cherries, and when the bottles are nearly full, pour in enough brandy to come just below the cork. Adding a few peach or apricot kernels will enhance their flavor, or a few blanched bitter almonds. Seal the bottles with corks or bungs, cover them with a piece of bladder, and store them in a dry place. The cherries will be ready to eat in 2 or 3 months and can last for years. However, they may shrivel and become tough if too much sugar is added.
Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per lb.
Average cost, 1 shilling to 1 shilling 6 pence per pound.
Sufficient.—1 lb. of cherries and about 1/4 pint of brandy for a quart bottle. Seasonable in August and September.
Sufficient.—1 lb. of cherries and about 1/4 pint of brandy for a quart bottle. Seasonable in August and September.
DRIED CHERRIES.
1527. CHERRIES may be put in a slow oven and thoroughly dried before they begin to change colour. They should then be taken out of the oven, tied in bunches, and stored away in a dry place. In the winter, they may be cooked with sugar for dessert, the same as Normandy pippins. Particular care must be taken that the oven be not too hot. Another method of drying cherries is to stone them, and to put them into a preserving-pan, with plenty of loaf sugar strewed amongst them. They should be simmered till the fruit shrivels, when they should be strained from the juice. The cherries should then be placed in an oven, cool enough to dry without baking them. About 5 oz. of sugar would be required for 1 lb. of cherries, and the same syrup may be used again to do another quantity of fruit.
1527. Cherries can be placed in a slow oven and dried completely before they start to change color. After that, take them out of the oven, tie them in bunches, and store them in a dry place. In winter, you can cook them with sugar for dessert, just like Normandy pippins. Make sure the oven isn’t too hot. Another way to dry cherries is to pit them and put them in a preserving pan with plenty of loaf sugar mixed in. Simmer them until the fruit shrivels, then strain out the juice. Next, place the cherries in a cool oven to dry without baking them. You will need about 5 oz. of sugar for every 1 lb. of cherries, and you can reuse the syrup for another batch of fruit.
CHERRY JAM.
1528. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit, weighed before stoning, allow 1/2 lb. of sugar; to every 6 lbs. of fruit allow 1 pint of red-currant juice, and to every pint of juice 1 lb. of sugar.
1528. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, measured before removing the stones, use 1/2 pound of sugar; for every 6 pounds of fruit, add 1 pint of red-currant juice, and for every pint of juice, add 1 pound of sugar.
Mode.—Weigh the fruit before stoning, and allow half the weight of sugar; stone the cherries, and boil them in a preserving-pan until nearly all the juice is dried up; then add the sugar, which should be crushed to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing 1 pint to every 6 lbs. of cherries (original weight), and 1 lb. of sugar to every pint of juice. Boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; skim the jam well, keep it well stirred, and, a few minutes before it is done, crack some of the stones, and add the kernels: these impart a very delicious flavour to the jam.
Mode.—Weigh the fruit before pitting it, and use half the weight in sugar. Pit the cherries and cook them in a preserving pan until most of the juice has evaporated; then add the sugar, which should be crushed into powder, and the currant juice, using 1 pint for every 6 lbs. of cherries (original weight), and 1 lb. of sugar for every pint of juice. Boil everything together until it reaches a jelly-like consistency, which will take between 20 minutes to half an hour; skim the jam thoroughly, keep it stirred well, and, a few minutes before it’s finished, crack some of the stones and add the kernels: these will give the jam a wonderfully delicious flavor.
Time.—According to the quality of the cherries, from 3/4 to 1 hour to boil them; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour with the sugar.
Time.—Depending on the quality of the cherries, boil them for 45 minutes to 1 hour; then add the sugar and cook for another 20 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, from 7d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 7p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—1 pint of fruit for a lb. pot of jam.
Sufficient.—1 pint of fruit for a 1 lb. jar of jam.
Seasonable.—Make this in July or August.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in July or August.
TO PRESERVE CHERRIES IN SYRUP.
(Very delicious.)
(Super tasty.)
1529. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of cherries, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 pint of white-currant juice.
1529. INGREDIENTS.—4 lbs. of cherries, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 pint of white-currant juice.
Mode.—Let the cherries be as clear and as transparent as possible, and perfectly ripe; pick off the stalks, and remove the stones, damaging the fruit as little as you can. Make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar, by recipe No. 1512; mix the cherries with it, and boil them for about 15 minutes, carefully skimming them; turn them gently into a pan, and let them remain till the next day; then drain the cherries on a sieve, and put the syrup and white-currant juice into the preserving-pan again. Boil these together until the syrup is somewhat reduced and rather thick; then put in the cherries, and let them boil for about 5 minutes; take them off the fire, skim the syrup, put the cherries into small pots or wide-mouthed bottles; pour the syrup over, and when quite cold, tie them down carefully, so that the air is quite excluded.
Mode.—Choose cherries that are as clear and transparent as possible and perfectly ripe. Remove the stems and pits, being careful not to damage the fruit too much. Make a syrup using the sugar as described in recipe No. 1512; mix the cherries with the syrup and boil them for about 15 minutes, skimming regularly. Gently transfer them into a pan and let them sit overnight. The next day, drain the cherries using a sieve and return the syrup and white-currant juice to the preserving pan. Boil these together until the syrup thickens slightly. Then add the cherries and let them boil for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, skim the syrup, and place the cherries into small jars or wide-mouth bottles. Pour the syrup over the cherries, and once everything is completely cool, seal them tightly to keep out the air.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup; 10 minutes to boil the syrup and currant-juice; 6 minutes to boil the cherries the second time.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup; 10 minutes to boil the syrup and currant juice; 6 minutes to boil the cherries a second time.
Average cost for this quantity, 3s. 6d.
Average price for this quantity, £3.30.
Seasonable.—Make this in July or August.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in July or August.
BLACK-CURRANT JAM.
1530. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being stripped from the stalks, allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of water.
1530. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, weighed before being removed from the stalks, use 3/4 pound of loaf sugar and 1 gill of water.
Mode.—Let the fruit be very ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Strip it from the stalks, and put it into a preserving-pan, with a gill of water to each lb. of fruit; boil these together for 10 minutes; then add the sugar, and boil the jam again for 30 minutes, reckoning from the time when the jam simmers equally all over, or longer, should it not appear to set nicely when a little is poured on to a plate. Keep stirring it to prevent it from burning, carefully remove all the scum, and when done, pour it into pots. Let it cool, cover the top of the jam with oiled paper, and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg: this, when cold, forms a hard stiff cover, and perfectly excludes the air. Great attention must be paid to the stirring of this jam, as it is very liable to burn, on account of the thickness of the juice.
Mode.—Make sure the fruit is very ripe and picked on a dry day. Remove it from the stems, and place it in a preserving pan with a gill of water for each pound of fruit. Boil them together for 10 minutes; then add the sugar and boil the jam again for 30 minutes, starting from when the jam simmers evenly throughout, or longer if it doesn’t seem to set well when a little is poured onto a plate. Keep stirring to prevent it from burning, carefully remove all the foam, and when it's done, pour it into jars. Let it cool, cover the top of the jam with oiled paper, and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white: this will form a hard, stiff seal when cold and keep the air out. Pay close attention to stirring the jam, as it can easily burn due to the thickness of the juice.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the fruit and water; 30 minutes with the sugar, or longer.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the fruit and water; 30 minutes with the sugar, or longer.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. for a pot capable of holding 1 lb.
Average cost, between 6p and 8p for a pot that can hold 1 lb.
Sufficient.—Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 1 dozen pots of jam, each pot to hold 1 lb.
Sufficient.—To make 1 dozen jars of jam, with each jar holding 1 lb, use 6 to 7 quarts of currants.
Seasonable.—Make this in July.
Seasonal.—Make this in July.
BLACK-CURRANT JELLY.
1531. INGREDIENTS.—Black currants; to every pint of juice allow 1/4 pint of water, 1 lb. of loaf sugar.
1531. INGREDIENTS.—Black currants; for every pint of juice, add 1/4 pint of water and 1 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Strip the currants from the stalks, which may be done in an expeditious manner, by holding the bunch in one hand, and passing a small silver fork down the currants: they will then readily fall from the stalks. Put them into a jar, place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer them until their juice is extracted; then strain them, and to every pint of juice allow the above proportion of sugar and water; stir these ingredients together cold until the sugar is dissolved; place the preserving-pan on the fire, and boil the jelly for about 1/2 hour, reckoning from the time it commences to boil all over, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. If the jelly becomes firm when a little is put on a plate, it is done; it should then be put into small pots, and covered the same as the jam in the preceding recipe. If the jelly is wanted very clear, the fruit should not be squeezed dry; but, of course, so much juice will not be obtained. If the fruit is not much squeezed, it may be converted into a jam for immediate eating, by boiling it with a little common sugar: this answers very well for a nursery preserve.
Mode.—Remove the currants from the stems by holding the bunch in one hand and using a small silver fork to pull down the currants. They will easily come off the stems. Place them in a jar and put the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, simmering until the juice is released. Strain the mixture, and for every pint of juice, add the specified amount of sugar and water. Stir these ingredients together while cold until the sugar dissolves. Put the preserving pan on the stove and boil the jelly for about 30 minutes, starting from when it begins to boil consistently, and carefully skim off any foam that forms. If the jelly sets when a small amount is placed on a plate, it’s ready. Transfer it into small jars and cover them like you did with the jam in the previous recipe. If you want the jelly to be very clear, don’t squeeze the fruit too much, but keep in mind that you won’t get as much juice. If the fruit is not overly squeezed, it can be turned into jam for immediate use by boiling it with some regular sugar, which works well for a nursery preserve.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to extract the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the jelly.
Time.—About 45 minutes to extract the juice; 30 minutes to boil the jelly.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.
Sufficient.—From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield a pint of juice.
Sufficient.—You need between 3 pints and 2 quarts of fruit to get about a pint of juice.
Seasonable.—Make this in July.
Seasonal.—Make this in July.
RED-CURRANT JAM.
1532. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1532. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, use ¾ pound of loaf sugar.
[Illustration: JAM-POT.]
[Illustration: Jam Jar.]
Mode.—Let the fruit be gathered on a fine day; weigh it, and then strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a preserving-pan with sugar in the above proportion; stir them, and boil them for about 3/4 hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Put the jam into pots, and, when cold, cover with oiled papers; over these put a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg; press the paper round the top of the pot, and, when dry, the covering will be quite hard and air-tight.
Mode.—Pick the fruit on a nice day; weigh it, then remove the currants from the stalks. Place them in a preserving pan with sugar in the same amount as before; stir, and boil for about 45 minutes. Carefully skim off the foam as it forms. Pour the jam into jars, and when it's cool, cover it with oiled paper; on top of that, place a piece of tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white; press the paper around the top of the jar, and when it's dry, the cover will be hard and airtight.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam boils all over.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes, starting from when the jam begins to boil.
Average cost, for a lb. pot, from 6d. to 8d.
Average cost, for a lb. pot, from 6p to 8p.
Sufficient.—Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb, pots of jam.
Sufficient.—Use 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-pound jars of jam.
Seasonable.—Make this in July.
Seasonal.—Make this in July.
RED-CURRANT JELLY.
1533. INGREDIENTS.—Red currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1533. INGREDIENTS.—Red currants; for every pint of juice, use 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Have the fruit gathered in fine weather; pick it from the stalks, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and let it simmer gently until the juice is well drawn from the currants; then strain them through a jelly-bag or fine cloth, and, if the jelly is wished very clear, do not squeeze them too much, as the skin and pulp from the fruit will be pressed through with the juice, and so make the jelly muddy. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; put these into a preserving-pan, set it over the fire, and keep stirring the jelly until it is done, carefully removing every particle of scum as it rises, using a wooden or silver spoon for the purpose, as metal or iron ones would spoil the colour of the jelly when it has boiled from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, put a little of the jelly on a plate, and if firm when cool, it is done. Take it off the fire, pour it into small gallipots, cover each of the pots with an oiled paper, and then with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. Label the pots, adding the year when the jelly was made, and store it away in a dry place. A jam may be made with the currants, if they are not squeezed too dry, by adding a few fresh raspberries, and boiling all together, with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. As this preserve is not worth storing away, but is only for immediate eating, a smaller proportion of sugar than usual will be found enough: it answers very well for children's puddings, or for a nursery preserve.
Mode.—Gather the fruit on a nice day; pick it from the stems, place it in a jar, and put that jar in a saucepan of boiling water over the heat. Let it simmer gently until the juice is well extracted from the currants; then strain it through a jelly bag or fine cloth. If you want the jelly to be really clear, don't squeeze them too much, as the skin and pulp from the fruit will go through with the juice, making the jelly cloudy. Measure the juice, and for each pint, use 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; put these into a preserving pan, set it over the heat, and keep stirring the jelly until it's finished, carefully removing any scum that rises with a wooden or silver spoon, as metal or iron ones can affect the jelly's color. After it has boiled for 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, put a little of the jelly on a plate, and if it firms up when cooled, it's done. Take it off the heat, pour it into small jars, cover each jar with oiled paper, and then with a piece of tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white. Label the jars, indicating the year the jelly was made, and store them in a dry place. You can also make a jam with the currants, as long as they aren't squeezed too dry, by adding a few fresh raspberries and boiling everything together with enough sugar to make it sweet. Since this preserve is meant for immediate use and isn't worth storing, a smaller amount of sugar than usual will be sufficient: it's great for children's puddings or as a nursery preserve.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour to extract the juice; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to boil the jelly.
Time.—From 45 minutes to 1 hour to extract the juice; 20 to 30 minutes to boil the jelly.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. Sufficient.—8 quarts of currants will make from 10 to 12 pots of jelly. Seasonable.—Make this in July. Note.—Should the above proportion of sugar not be found sufficient for some tastes, add an extra 1/4 lb. to every pint of juice, making altogether 1 lb.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot. Sufficient.—8 quarts of currants will make about 10 to 12 pots of jelly. Seasonable.—Make this in July. Note.—If the amount of sugar mentioned above isn't enough for some people's tastes, add an extra 1/4 lb. for every pint of juice, making it a total of 1 lb.
WHITE-CURRANT JELLY.
1534. INGREDIENTS.—White currants; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of good loaf sugar.
1534. INGREDIENTS.—White currants; for every pint of juice, use 3/4 lb. of good loaf sugar.
Mode.—Pick the currants from the stalks, and put them into a jar; place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the juice is well drawn from the fruit, which will be in from 3/4 to 1 hour. Then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag; do not squeeze them too much, or the jelly will not be clear, and put the juice into a very clean preserving-pan, with the sugar. Let this simmer gently over a clear fire until it is firm, and keep stirring and skimming until it is done; then pour it into small pots, cover them, and store away in a dry place.
Mode.—Pick the currants off the stems and put them in a jar; place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water and simmer until the juice has been well extracted from the fruit, which will take about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly bag; be careful not to squeeze them too much, or the jelly won't be clear, and pour the juice into a very clean preserving pan along with the sugar. Let this simmer gently over a steady heat until it thickens, stirring and skimming until it’s done; then pour it into small jars, cover them, and store them in a dry place.
Time.—3/4 hour to draw the juice; 1/2 hour to boil the jelly.
Time.—45 minutes to extract the juice; 30 minutes to cook the jelly.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.
Sufficient.—From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of juice.
Sufficient.—From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should produce 1 pint of juice.
Seasonable in July and August.
In season in July and August.
BAKED DAMSONS FOR WINTER USE.
1535. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 6 oz. of pounded sugar; melted mutton suet.
1535. INGREDIENTS.—For each pound of fruit, use 6 ounces of powdered sugar; melted mutton fat.
Mode.—Choose sound fruit, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, weigh it, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of pounded sugar. Put the fruit into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the sugar amongst it; cover the jars with saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, and bake the fruit until it is quite tender. When cold, cover the top of the fruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar; pour over this melted mutton suet about an inch thick, and cover the tops of the jars with thick brown paper, well tied down. Keep the jars in a cool dry place, and the fruit will remain good till the following Christmas, but not much longer.
Mode.—Choose fresh fruit that’s not overly ripe; remove the stems, weigh it, and for every pound, use the specified amount of crushed sugar. Place the fruit into large, dry stone jars, mixing in the sugar as you go; cover the jars with saucers, put them in a cool oven, and bake the fruit until it’s completely tender. Once it cools, cover the top of the fruit with a piece of white paper cut to fit the jar; pour melted mutton fat over this, about an inch thick, and seal the tops of the jars with thick brown paper, securely tied down. Store the jars in a cool, dry place, and the fruit will stay good until the next Christmas, but no longer than that.
Time.—From 5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons, in a very cool oven.
Time.—Bake the damsons for 5 to 6 hours in a very low oven.
Seasonable in September and October.
In season in September and October.
DAMSON CHEESE.
1536. INGREDIENTS.—Damsons; to every lb. of fruit pulp allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
1536. INGREDIENTS.—Damsons; for every lb. of fruit pulp, use 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Pick the stalks from the damsons, and put them into a preserving-pan; simmer them over the fire until they are soft, occasionally stirring them; then beat them through a coarse sieve, and put the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan, with sugar in the above proportion, having previously carefully weighed them. Stir the sugar well in, and simmer the damsons slowly for 2 hours. Skim well; then boil the preserve quickly for 1/2 hour, or until it looks firm and hard in the spoon; put it quickly into shallow pots, or very tiny earthenware moulds, and, when cold, cover it with oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. A few of the stones may be cracked, and the kernels boiled with the damsons, which very much improves the flavour of the cheese.
Mode.—Remove the stems from the damsons and place them in a preserving pan; simmer them over low heat until they soften, stirring occasionally. Then pass them through a coarse sieve and return the pulp and juice to the preserving pan, adding sugar in the previously mentioned amount, having weighed it carefully. Mix the sugar in thoroughly, and simmer the damsons gently for 2 hours. Skim the mixture well; then boil the preserve rapidly for 30 minutes, or until it looks firm and thick when spooned. Quickly transfer it into shallow pots or small earthenware molds, and once cool, cover with oiled paper, and the jars with tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white. You can crack a few of the pits and boil the kernels with the damsons, which greatly enhances the flavor of the preserve.
Time.—1 hour to boil the damsons without the sugar; 2 hours to simmer them slowly, 1/2 hour quickly.
Time.—1 hour to boil the damsons without sugar; 2 hours to simmer them slowly, 30 minutes quickly.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/3 lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8p to 10p per 1/3 lb. pot.
Sufficient.—1 pint of damsons to make a very small pot of cheese.
Sufficient.—1 pint of damsons to make a very small jar of cheese.
Seasonable.—Make this in September or October.
In Season.—Make this in September or October.
COMPOTE OF DAMSONS.
1537. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup No. 1512.
1537. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup No. 1512.
Mode.—Procure sound ripe damsons; pick the stalks from them, and put them into boiling syrup, made by recipe No. 1512. Simmer them gently until the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently soft to break; take them up, boil the syrup for 5 minutes; pour it over the damsons, and serve. This should be sent to table in a glass dish.
Method.—Get ripe, healthy damsons; remove the stems and place them in boiling syrup, using recipe No. 1512. Let them simmer gently until the fruit is tender but not so soft that it breaks apart; take them out, boil the syrup for 5 minutes, then pour it over the damsons and serve. This should be presented in a glass dish.
Time.—About 1/4 hour to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes to boil the syrup.
Time.—About 15 minutes to simmer the damsons; 5 minutes to boil the syrup.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in September and October.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. In season in September and October.
DAMSON JAM.
1538. INGREDIENTS.—Damsons; to every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1538. INGREDIENTS.—Damsons; for each pound of fruit, use 3/4 pound of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Have the fruit gathered in dry weather; pick it over, and reject any that is at all blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh them, and to every lb. allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into a preserving-pan; keep stirring them gently until the sugar is dissolved, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Boil the jam for about an hour, reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all over alike: it must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to burn and stick to the pan, which will cause the jam to have a very disagreeable flavour. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears to set, it is done. Then take it off the fire, put into pots, cover it down, when quite cold, with oiled and egged papers, the same as in recipe No. 1530, and store it away in a dry place.
Method.—Gather the fruit on a dry day; sort through it and discard any that is blemished. Remove the stones from the damsons, weigh them, and for every pound, use 3/4 pound of loaf sugar. Place the fruit and sugar in a preserving pan; stir gently until the sugar dissolves, and carefully skim off any scum that forms. Boil the jam for about an hour, starting from when it begins to simmer evenly: keep stirring continuously to prevent it from burning and sticking to the pan, which would give the jam an unpleasant taste. When the jam looks thick and the juice appears to set, it's ready. Remove it from the heat, pour it into jars, and once it's completely cool, cover with oiled and egged papers, as described in recipe No. 1530, and store it in a dry place.
Time.—1 hour after the jam simmers all over.
Time.—1 hour after the jam is done simmering.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—1-1/2 pint of damsons for a lb. pot.
Sufficient.—1.5 pints of damsons for a 1 lb. jar.
Seasonable.—Make this in September or October.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in September or October.
A VERY NICE PRESERVE OF DAMSONS.
1539. INGREDIENTS.—To every quart of damsons allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
1539. INGREDIENTS.—For each quart of damsons, use 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Put the damsons (which should be picked from the stalks and quite free from blemishes) into a jar, with pounded sugar sprinkled amongst them in the above proportion; tie the jar closely down, set it in a saucepan of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, and simmer gently until the damsons are soft, without being broken. Let them stand till cold; then strain the juice from them, boil it up well, strain it through a jelly-bag, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover with oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg, and store away in a dry cool place.
Mode.—Remove the stems from the damsons (make sure they're free from any imperfections) and place them in a jar, layering them with pounded sugar in the mentioned ratio. Seal the jar tightly, place it in a saucepan with cold water, and gradually bring it to a boil. Simmer gently until the damsons become soft but not broken. Allow them to cool, then strain the juice from the fruit. Bring the juice to a boil, strain it through a jelly bag, and pour it over the fruit. Let it cool, cover with oiled paper, and seal the jars with tissue paper brushed with egg white on both sides. Store in a cool, dry place.
Time.—About 3/4 hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils; 1/4 hour to boil the juice.
Time.—About 45 minutes to simmer the fruit after the water boils; 15 minutes to boil the juice.
Seasonable.—Make this in September or October.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in September or October.
TO PRESERVE DAMSONS, OR ANY KIND OF PLUMS.
(Useful in Winter.)
(Handy in Winter.)
1540. INGREDIENTS.—Damsons or plums; boiling water.
1540. INGREDIENTS.—Damsons or plums; boiling water.
Mode.—Pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars, taking care to leave out all that are broken or blemished. When full, pour boiling water on the plums, until it stands one inch above the fruit; cut a piece of paper to fit the inside of the jar, over which pour melted mutton-suet; cover down with brown paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool place. When used, the suet should be removed, the water poured off, and the jelly at the bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit.
Mode.—Pick the fruit into clean, dry glass jars, making sure to leave out any that are broken or damaged. When the jars are full, pour boiling water over the plums until it reaches one inch above the fruit; cut a piece of paper to fit the inside of the jar, and pour melted mutton fat over it; cover the jar with brown paper and store it in a cool, dry place. When you're ready to use it, remove the fat, pour off the water, and mix the jelly at the bottom of the jar with the fruit.
Seasonable in September and October.
In season in September and October.
COMPOTE OF GREEN FIGS.
[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF FIGS.]
[Illustration: FIG COMPOTE.]
1541. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1-1/2 pint of green figs, the rind of 1/2 lemon.
1541. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1-1/2 pints of green figs, the rind of 1/2 lemon.
Mode.—Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, boiling with it the lemon-rind, and carefully remove all the scum as it rises. Put in the figs, and simmer them very slowly until tender; dish them on a glass dish; reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for 5 minutes; take out the lemon-peel, pour the syrup over the figs, and the compote, when cold, will be ready for table. A little port wine, or lemon-juice, added just before the figs are done, will be found an improvement.
Method.—Make a syrup using recipe No. 1512, boiling the lemon peel with it, and carefully remove all the foam as it appears. Add the figs and let them simmer very slowly until they're tender; serve them on a glass dish. Cook the syrup on high for 5 minutes to thicken it; remove the lemon peel, pour the syrup over the figs, and the compote will be ready to serve when it's cold. Adding a bit of port wine or lemon juice just before the figs are finished will enhance the flavor.
Time.—2 to 3 hours to stew the figs.
Time.—2 to 3 hours to cook the figs.
Average cost, figs, 2s. to 3s. per dozen.
Average cost, figs, £0.10 to £0.15 per dozen.
Seasonable in August and September.
Seasonal in August and September.
TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT.
(Very useful in Winter.)
Super helpful in winter.
I.
1542. INGREDIENTS.—Fresh fruits, such as currants, raspberries, cherries, gooseberries, plums of all kinds, damsons, &c.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, new corks to fit them tightly.
1542. INGREDIENTS.—Fresh fruits, like currants, raspberries, cherries, gooseberries, and all kinds of plums, including damsons, etc.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, and new corks that fit them securely.
Mode.—Let the fruit be full grown, but not too ripe, and gathered in dry weather. Pick it off the stalks without bruising or breaking the skin, and reject any that is at all blemished: if gathered in the damp, or if the skins are cut at all, the fruit will mould. Have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some nice new soft corks or bungs; burn a match in each bottle, to exhaust the air, and quickly place the fruit in to be preserved; gently cork the bottles, and put them into a very cool oven, where let them remain until the fruit has shrunk away a fourth part. Then take the bottles out; do not open them, but immediately beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and cover them with melted resin. If kept in a dry place, the fruit will remain good for months; and on this principally depends the success of the preparation; for if stored away in a place that is in the least damp, the fruit will soon spoil.
Mode.—Choose fully grown fruit that isn’t too ripe, and pick it on a dry day. Remove it from the stems without bruising or breaking the skin, and discard any that are blemished. If the fruit is picked when wet or if the skins are damaged, it will mold. Have some perfectly dry glass bottles and nice new soft corks or bungs ready; light a match in each bottle to remove the air, then quickly place the fruit inside for preservation. Gently cork the bottles and put them in a very cool oven, letting them sit there until the fruit has shrunk about a fourth. Then take the bottles out; do not open them, but immediately push the corks in tightly, cut off the tops, and seal them with melted resin. If stored in a dry place, the fruit will stay good for months; this mainly determines the success of the preparation, because if stored in a damp environment, the fruit will spoil quickly.
Time.—From 5 to 6 hours in a very slow oven.
Time.—Bake for 5 to 6 hours in a very low oven.
II.
1543. INGREDIENTS.—Any kind of fresh fruit, such as currants, cherries, gooseberries, all kinds of plums, &c.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, new corks to fit them tightly.
1543. INGREDIENTS.—Any kind of fresh fruit, like currants, cherries, gooseberries, all types of plums, etc.; wide-mouthed glass bottles, new corks that fit tightly.
Mode.—The fruit must be full-grown, not too ripe, and gathered on a fine day. Let it be carefully picked and put into the bottles, which must be clean and perfectly dry. Tie over the tops of the bottles pieces of bladder; stand the bottles in a large pot, copper, or boiler, with cold water to reach to their necks; kindle a fire under, let the water boil, and as the bladders begin to rise and puff, prick them. As soon as the water boils, extinguish the fire, and let the bottles remain where they are, to become cold. The next day remove the bladders, and strew over the fruit a thick layer of pounded sugar; fit the bottles with corks, and let each cork lie close at hand to its own bottle. Hold for a few moments, in the neck of the bottle, two or three lighted matches, and when they have filled the bottle neck with gas, and before they go out, remove them very quickly; instantly cork the bottle closely, and dip it in bottle cement.
Mode.—The fruit should be fully grown, not overly ripe, and harvested on a nice day. Carefully pick it and put it into clean, dry bottles. Cover the tops of the bottles with pieces of bladder; place the bottles in a large pot, copper, or boiler filled with cold water up to their necks; start a fire underneath, let the water boil, and as the bladders begin to rise and puff, poke them. As soon as the water boils, put out the fire and let the bottles stay in place to cool down. The next day, take off the bladders and sprinkle a thick layer of powdered sugar over the fruit; fit the bottles with corks, keeping each cork nearby its own bottle. Hold two or three lit matches at the neck of the bottle for a few moments, and when the neck fills with gas before they go out, quickly remove them; immediately cork the bottle tightly and dip it in bottle cement.
Time.—Altogether about 8 hours.
Duration.—Total of about 8 hours.
TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT WITH SUGAR.
(Very useful in Winter.)
Very useful in winter.
1544. INGREDIENTS.—Any kind of fresh fruit; to each quart bottle allow 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar.
1544. INGREDIENTS.—Any type of fresh fruit; for each quart bottle, use 1/4 lb. of crushed sugar.
Mode.—Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather. Pick it carefully, and drop it into clean and very dry quart glass bottles, sprinkling over it the above proportion of pounded sugar to each quart. Put the corks in the bottles, and place them in a copper of cold water up to their necks, with small hay-wisps round them, to prevent the bottles from knocking together. Light the fire under, bring the water gradually to boil, and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles is reduced nearly one third. Extinguish the fire, and let the bottles remain in the water until it is perfectly cold; then take them out, make the corks secure, and cover them with melted resin or wax.
Mode.—Gather the fruit on a dry day. Pick it carefully and place it into clean and very dry quart glass bottles, adding the specified amount of crushed sugar for each quart. Seal the bottles with corks and immerse them in a pot of cold water up to their necks, using small pieces of hay around them to stop the bottles from bumping into each other. Light the fire underneath, gradually bring the water to a boil, and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles is reduced by nearly one third. Turn off the fire, and leave the bottles in the water until it's completely cold; then remove them, secure the corks, and cover them with melted resin or wax.
Time.—About 1 hour from the time the water commences to boil.
Time.—Approximately 1 hour from when the water starts to boil.
TO FROST HOLLY-LEAVES, for garnishing and decorating Dessert and Supper
Dishes.
TO FROST HOLLY LEAVES, for garnishing and decorating Dessert and Supper
Dishes.
1545.—INGREDIENTS.—Sprigs of holly, oiled butter, coarsely-powdered sugar.
1545.—INGREDIENTS.—Holly sprigs, butter, and coarse sugar.
Mode.—Procure some nice sprigs of holly; pick the leaves from the stalks, and wipe them with a clean cloth free from all moisture; then place them on a dish near the fire, to get thoroughly dry, but not too near to shrivel the leaves; dip them into oiled butter, sprinkle over them some coarsely-powdered sugar, and dry them before the fire. They should be kept in a dry place, as the least damp would spoil their appearance.
Mode.—Get some nice sprigs of holly; remove the leaves from the stalks, and wipe them with a dry cloth. Then place them on a dish near the fire to dry completely, but not so close that they wilt. Dip them in melted butter, sprinkle some coarse sugar over them, and dry them in front of the fire. Store them in a dry place, as even a little moisture can ruin their appearance.
Time.—About 10 minutes to dry before the fire.
Time.—It takes about 10 minutes to dry by the fire.
Seasonable.—These may be made at any time; but are more suitable for winter garnishes, when fresh flowers are not easily obtained.
Seasonable.—These can be made any time, but they're more suitable for winter garnishes when fresh flowers aren't easily available.
COMPOTE OF GOOSEBERRIES.
1546. INGREDIENTS.—Syrup made by recipe No. 1512; to 1 pint of syrup allow nearly a quart of gooseberries.
1546. INGREDIENTS.—Syrup made by recipe No. 1512; for 1 pint of syrup, use about a quart of gooseberries.
Mode.—Top and tail the gooseberries, which should not be very ripe, and pour over them some boiling water; then take them out, and plunge them into cold water, with which has been mixed a tablespoonful of vinegar, which will assist to keep the fruit a good colour. Make a pint of syrup by recipe No. 1512, and when it boils, drain the gooseberries and put them in; simmer them gently until the fruit is nicely pulped and tender, without being broken; then dish the gooseberries on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, pour over the gooseberries, and serve cold.
Mode.—Remove the tops and tails from the gooseberries, which shouldn’t be overly ripe, and pour boiling water over them. Then, take them out and quickly plunge them into cold water mixed with a tablespoon of vinegar to help maintain their color. Make a pint of syrup following recipe No. 1512, and when it’s boiling, drain the gooseberries and add them in. Simmer gently until the fruit is nicely softened and tender, but not broken. Then, serve the gooseberries on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, pour it over the gooseberries, and serve chilled.
Time.—About 5 minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup; 3 minutes to reduce the syrup.
Time.—About 5 minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup; 3 minutes to thicken the syrup.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9d.
Sufficient,—a quart of gooseberries for 5 or 6 persons.
Sufficient—a quart of gooseberries for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable in June.
In season in June.
GOOSEBERRY JAM.
I.
1547. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; currant-juice.
1547. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, use 3/4 pound of loaf sugar; currant juice.
Mode.—Select red hairy gooseberries; have them gathered in dry weather, when quite ripe, without being too soft. Weigh them; with a pair of scissors, cut off the tops and tails, and to every 6 lbs. of fruit have ready 1/2 pint of red-currant juice, drawn as for jelly. Put the gooseberries and currant-juice into a preserving-pan; let them boil tolerably quickly, keeping them well stirred; when they begin to break, add to them the sugar, and keep simmering until the jam becomes firm, carefully skimming: and stirring it, that it does not burn at the bottom. It should be boiled rather a long time, or it will not keep. Put it into pots (not too large); let it get perfectly cold; then cover the pots down with oiled and egged papers, as directed for red-currant jelly No. 1533.
Mode.—Choose ripe red hairy gooseberries and pick them on a dry day when they’re fully ripe but not too soft. Weigh them, then use scissors to cut off the tops and tails. For every 6 lbs. of fruit, prepare 1/2 pint of red currant juice, just like you would for jelly. Combine the gooseberries and currant juice in a preserving pan; bring to a boil fairly quickly, stirring well. Once the berries start breaking down, add the sugar and continue to simmer until the jam thickens, making sure to skim off the foam and stir to prevent burning at the bottom. It should boil for a good amount of time, or it won’t preserve well. Pour it into jars (choose smaller ones); allow it to cool completely, then seal the jars with oiled and egg-washed paper, as instructed for red currant jelly No. 1533.
Time.—About 1 hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant-juice; from 1/2 to 3/4 hour with the sugar.
Time.—About 1 hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant juice; from 30 to 45 minutes with the sugar.
Average cost, per lb. pot, from 6d. to 8d.
Average cost, per lb. pot, from 6p to 8p.
Sufficient.—Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Use 1.5 pints of fruit for a 1-pound jar.
Seasonable.—Make this in June or July.
In Season.—Prepare this in June or July.
II.
1548. INGREDIENTS.—To every 8 lbs. of red, rough, ripe gooseberries allow 1 quart of red-currant juice, 5 lbs. of loaf sugar.
1548. INGREDIENTS.—For every 8 lbs. of red, rough, ripe gooseberries, use 1 quart of red currant juice and 5 lbs. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Have the fruit gathered in dry weather, and cut off the tops and tails. Prepare 1 quart of red-currant juice, the same as for red-currant jelly No. 1533; put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and keep stirring until the latter is dissolved. Keep it boiling for about 5 minutes; skim well; then put in the gooseberries, and let them boil from 1/2 to 3/4 hour; then turn the whole into an earthen pan, and let it remain for 2 days. Boil the jam up again until it looks clear; put it into pots, and when cold, cover with oiled paper, and over the jars put tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg, and store away in a dry place. Care must be taken, in making this, to keep the jam well stirred and well skimmed, to prevent it burning at the bottom of the pan, and to have it very clear.
Mode.—Gather the fruit on a dry day, and trim off the tops and tails. Prepare 1 quart of red currant juice, just like you would for red currant jelly No. 1533; place it into a preserving pan with the sugar, and keep stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Let it boil for about 5 minutes; skim off any foam; then add the gooseberries and let them boil for 30 to 45 minutes; afterwards, transfer everything into an earthenware dish and let it sit for 2 days. Boil the jam again until it's clear; pour it into jars, and once cool, cover with oiled paper. On top of the jars, place tissue paper that's been brushed on both sides with egg white, and store in a dry place. It's important to keep stirring and skimming the jam while making this to avoid burning on the bottom of the pan and to ensure it’s very clear.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the currant-juice and sugar after the latter is dissolved; from 1/2 to 3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries the first time, 1/4 hour the second time of boiling.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the currant juice and sugar after the sugar is dissolved; from 30 to 45 minutes to simmer the gooseberries the first time, 15 minutes the second time of boiling.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8d to 10d per lb pot.
Sufficient.—Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Use 1-1/2 pints of fruit for a 1 lb. pot.
Seasonable.—Make this in June or July.
Seasonable.—Make this in June or July.
WHITE OR GREEN GOOSEBERRY JAM.
1549. INGREDIENTS.—Equal weight of fruit and sugar.
1549. INGREDIENTS.—Equal weight of fruit and sugar.
Mode.—Select the gooseberries not very ripe, either white or green, and top and tail them. Boil the sugar with water (allowing 1/2 pint to every lb.) for about 1/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises; then put in the gooseberries, and simmer gently till clear and firm: try a little of the jam on a plate; if it jellies when cold, it is done, and should then be poured into pots. When cold, cover with oiled paper, and tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten white of an egg, and store away in a dry place.
Mode.—Choose gooseberries that aren’t too ripe, either white or green, and trim the tops and bottoms. Boil sugar with water (about 1/2 pint for each pound) for about 15 minutes, carefully skimming off any foam as it develops; then add the gooseberries and simmer gently until they become clear and firm: test a bit of the jam on a plate; if it sets when cold, it’s ready and should be poured into jars. Once cool, cover with oiled paper, and layer tissue paper brushed with unbeaten egg white on both sides, then store in a dry place.
Time.—1/4 hour to boil the sugar and water, 3/4 hour the jam.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the sugar and water, 45 minutes for the jam.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Allow 1-1/2 pint of fruit for a lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Use 1.5 pints of fruit for a 1 lb. jar.
Seasonable.—Make this in June.
In season.—Make this in June.
GOOSEBERRY JELLY.
1550. INGREDIENTS.—Gooseberries; to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1550. INGREDIENTS.—Gooseberries; for every pint of juice, use 3/4 lb. of granulated sugar.
Mode.—Put the gooseberries, after cutting off the tops and tails, into a preserving-pan, and stir them over the fire until they are quite soft; then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for nearly 3/4 hour, stirring and skimming all the time; and if the jelly appears firm when a little of it is poured on to a plate, it is done, and should then be taken up and put into small pots. Cover the pots with oiled and egged papers, the same as for currant jelly No. 1533, and store away in a dry place.
Method.—After cutting off the tops and tails, place the gooseberries into a preserving pan and heat them over the fire until they are completely soft. Then, strain them through a sieve, and for every pint of juice, add 3/4 lb. of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for nearly 45 minutes, stirring and skimming constantly. If the jelly looks firm when a little is poured onto a plate, it’s ready. Remove it and transfer it into small jars. Cover the jars with oiled and egg-washed paper, just like for currant jelly No. 1533, and store them in a dry place.
Time.—3/4 hour to simmer the gooseberries without the sugar; 3/4 hour to boil the juice.
Time.—45 minutes to simmer the gooseberries without sugar; 45 minutes to boil the juice.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per 1/2-lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8p to 10p per 1/2-lb. pot.
Seasonable in July.
Seasonal in July.
COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES.
1551. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup made by recipe No. 1512, 1 quart of greengages.
1551. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup made using recipe No. 1512, 1 quart of greengages.
Mode.—Make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, skim it well, and put in the greengages when the syrup is boiling, having previously removed the stalks and stones from the fruit. Boil gently for 1/4 hour, or until the fruit is tender; but take care not to let it break, as the appearance of the dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced to a pulp. Take the greengages carefully out, place them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for another 5 minutes, let it cool a little, pour over the fruit, and, when cold, it will be ready for use.
Mode.—Make a syrup using recipe No. 1512, skim it well, and add the greengages when the syrup is boiling, after removing the stalks and pits from the fruit. Boil gently for 15 minutes, or until the fruit is tender; but be careful not to let it break, as the dish’s appearance would be ruined if the fruit turns to mush. Carefully take the greengages out, place them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for another 5 minutes, let it cool a bit, pour it over the fruit, and it will be ready for use when cold.
Time.—1/4 hour to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes the syrup.
Time.—15 minutes to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes for the syrup.
Average cost, in full season, 10d.
Average cost, during the entire season, 10d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Enough for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
In season in July, August, and September.
GREENGAGE JAM.
1552. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being stoned, allow 3/4 lb. of lump sugar.
1552. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, weighed before pitting, use ¾ pound of lump sugar.
Mode.—Divide the greengages, take out the stones, and put them into a preserving-pan. Bring the fruit to a boil, then add the sugar, and keep stirring it over a gentle fire until it is melted. Remove all the scum as it rises, and, just before the jam is done, boil it rapidly for 5 minutes. To ascertain when it is sufficiently boiled, pour a little on a plate, and if the syrup thickens and appears firm, it is done. Have ready half the kernels blanched; put them into the jam, give them one boil, and pour the preserve into pots. When cold, cover down with oiled papers, and, over these, tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.
Mode.—Pit the greengages and place them in a preserving pan. Bring the fruit to a boil, then add the sugar, stirring continuously over low heat until it dissolves. Skim off any foam that forms, and just before the jam is finished, boil it vigorously for 5 minutes. To check if it's ready, drop a little onto a plate; if the syrup thickens and holds its shape, it’s done. Have half the kernels blanched and add them to the jam, bringing it to a boil once more before pouring the preserve into jars. Once cool, cover with oiled paper, then place tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white on top.
Time.—3/4 hour after the sugar is added.
Time.—45 minutes after adding the sugar.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Allow about 1-1/2 pint of fruit for every lb. pot of jam.
Sufficient.—Use about 1.5 pints of fruit for every pound of jam.
Seasonable.—Make this in August or September.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in August or September.
TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES.
1553. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of sugar allow 1 lb. of fruit, 1/4 pint of water.
1553. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of sugar, use 1 pound of fruit and 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quite ripe, and part of the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fruit, rejecting all that is in the least degree blemished, and put it into a lined saucepan with the sugar and water, which should have been previously boiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the fruit in this for 10 minutes, remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages. The next day, boil up the syrup and put in the fruit again, and let it simmer for 3 minutes, and drain the syrup away. Continue this process for 5 or 6 days, and the last time place the greengages, when drained, on a hair sieve, and put them in an oven or warm spot to dry; keep them in a box, with paper between each layer, in a place free from damp.
Mode.—For this purpose, use the fruit before it is fully ripe, and leave part of the stem on. Weigh the fruit, discarding any that is even slightly blemished, and place it in a lined saucepan with the sugar and water, which should have been boiled together into a rich syrup beforehand. Boil the fruit in this for 10 minutes, take it off the heat, and drain the greengages. The next day, bring the syrup back to a boil and add the fruit again, letting it simmer for 3 minutes, then drain the syrup away. Repeat this process for 5 or 6 days, and the last time, place the drained greengages on a hair sieve and set them in an oven or a warm spot to dry; store them in a box with paper between each layer, in a dry place.
Time.—10 minutes the first time of boiling.
Time.—Boil for 10 minutes the first time.
Seasonable.—Make this in August or September.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in August or September.
PRESERVED GREENGAGES IN SYRUP.
1554. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar 1/4 pint of water.
1554. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, use 1 pound of loaf sugar and 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for about 10 minutes; divide the greengages, take out the stones, put the fruit into the syrup, and let it simmer gently until nearly tender. Take it off the fire, put it into a large pan, and, the next day, boil it up again for about 10 minutes with the kernels from the stones, which should be blanched. Put the fruit carefully into jars, pour over it the syrup, and, when cold, cover down, so that the air is quite excluded. Let the syrup be well skimmed both the first and second day of boiling, otherwise it will not be clear.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for about 10 minutes; pit the greengages and remove the stones, then add the fruit to the syrup and let it simmer gently until it's almost tender. Remove it from the heat, transfer it to a large pan, and the next day, bring it to a boil again for about 10 minutes with the blanched kernels from the stones. Carefully place the fruit into jars, pour the syrup over it, and once it’s cool, seal it tightly to keep out the air. Make sure to skim the syrup well on both the first and second days of boiling; otherwise, it won't be clear.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the syrup; 1/4 hour to simmer the fruit the first day, 10 minutes the second day.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the syrup; 15 minutes to simmer the fruit on the first day, 10 minutes on the second day.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Allow about 1 quart of fruit to fill a 1-pound pot.
Seasonable.—Make this in August or September.
Seasonable.—Make this in August or September.
TO MAKE FRUIT ICE-CREAMS.
1555. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of cream; sugar to taste.
1555. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of fruit juice, use 1 pint of cream; add sugar to taste.
Mode.—Let the fruit be well ripened; pick it off the stalks, and put it into a large earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, breaking it until it is well mashed; then, with the back of the spoon, rub it through a hair sieve. Sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar; whip the cream for a few minutes, add it to the fruit, and whisk the whole again for another 5 minutes. Put the mixture into the freezing-pot, and freeze in the same manner as directed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, taking care to stir the cream, &c., two or three times, and to remove it from the sides of the vessel, that the mixture may be equally frozen and smooth. Ices are usually served in glasses, but if moulded, as they sometimes are for dessert, must have a small quantity of melted isinglass added to them, to enable them to keep their shape. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and all fruit ice-creams, are made in the same manner. A little pounded sugar sprinkled over the fruit before it is mashed assists to extract the juice. In winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for it: it should be melted and worked through a sieve before being added to the whipped cream; and if the colour should not be good, a little prepared cochineal or beetroot may be put in to improve its appearance.
Mode.—Let the fruit be fully ripe; pick it from the stems and place it in a large earthenware bowl. Stir it with a wooden spoon, smashing it until it's well mashed; then, using the back of the spoon, press it through a fine sieve. Sweeten it to taste with powdered sugar; whip the cream for a few minutes, then mix it into the fruit, whisking everything together for another 5 minutes. Put the mixture into the freezing pot, and freeze it just like you would for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, making sure to stir the cream, etc., two or three times, and scrape down the sides of the container so the mixture freezes evenly and stays smooth. Ices are typically served in glasses, but if shaped in molds for dessert, you need to add a bit of melted isinglass to help them hold their form. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and all fruit ice creams are made in the same way. Sprinkling a little powdered sugar over the fruit before mashing helps extract the juice. In winter, when fresh fruit is hard to find, you can use a bit of jam instead: melt it and strain it through a sieve before adding it to the whipped cream, and if the color doesn't look good, you can add a little prepared cochineal or beetroot to enhance its appearance.
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture.
Average cost, with cream at 1s. per pint, 4d. each ice.
Average cost, with cream at 1 shilling per pint, 4 pence each for ice.
Seasonable, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.
In season, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.
TO MAKE FRUIT-WATER ICES.
1556. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of syrup made by recipe No. 1513.
1556. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of fruit juice, use 1 pint of syrup made according to recipe No. 1513.
[Illustration: DISH OF ICES.]
[Illustration: BOWL OF ICE CREAM.]
Mode.—Select nice ripe fruit; pick off the stalks, and put it into a large earthen pan, with a little pounded sugar strewed over; stir it about with a wooden spoon until it is well broken, then rub it through a hair sieve. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of the egg; let it cool, add the fruit-juice, mix well together, and put the mixture into the freezing-pot. Proceed as directed for Ice Puddings, No. 1290, and when the mixture is equally frozen, put it into small glasses. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and other fresh-fruit-water ices, are made in the same manner.
Mode.—Choose nice, ripe fruit; remove the stems and place it in a large ceramic bowl, with a little powdered sugar sprinkled on top; stir it with a wooden spoon until it’s well mashed, then strain it through a fine sieve. Make the syrup following recipe No. 1513, but skip the egg white; let it cool, add the fruit juice, mix everything together, and pour the mixture into the ice cream maker. Follow the instructions for Ice Puddings, No. 1290, and when the mixture is evenly frozen, scoop it into small glasses. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and other fresh fruit water ices can be made the same way.
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture.
Average cost, 3d. to 4d. each.
Average cost, 3 to 4 pence each.
Seasonable, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.
In season, with fresh fruit, during June, July, and August.
LEMON-WATER ICE.
1557. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of syrup, made by recipe No. 1513, allow 1/3 pint of lemon-juice; the rind of 4 lemons.
1557. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of syrup made using recipe No. 1513, add 1/3 pint of lemon juice and the zest of 4 lemons.
Mode.—Rub the sugar on the rinds of the lemons, and with it make the syrup by recipe No. 1513, omitting the white of egg. Strain the lemon-juice, add it to the other ingredients, stir well, and put the mixture into a freezing-pot. Freeze as directed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, and, when the mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen, put it into ice-glasses.
Mode.—Rub the sugar on the lemon peels, and use it to make the syrup following recipe No. 1513, but leave out the egg white. Strain the lemon juice, mix it in with the other ingredients, stir well, and transfer everything to a freezing pot. Freeze as instructed for Ice Pudding, No. 1290, and when the mixture is completely and evenly frozen, serve it in ice glasses.
Time.—1/2 hour to freeze the mixture. Average cost, 3d. to 4d. each.
Time.—30 minutes to freeze the mixture. Average cost, 3 to 4 pence each.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
ICED CURRANTS, for Dessert.
Iced Currants, for dessert.
1558. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of water, the whites of 2 eggs, currants, pounded sugar.
1558. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of water, the whites of 2 eggs, currants, powdered sugar.
Mode.—Select very fine bunches of red or white currants, and well beat the whites of the eggs. Mix these with the water; then take the currants, a bunch at a time, and dip them in; let them drain for a minute or two, and roll them in very fine pounded sugar. Lay them to dry on paper, when the sugar will crystallize round each currant, and have a very pretty effect. All fresh fruit may be prepared in the same manner; and a mixture of various fruits iced in this manner, and arranged on one dish, looks very well for a summer dessert.
Mode.—Choose very fine bunches of red or white currants, and beat the egg whites well. Mix these with water; then take the currants, one bunch at a time, dip them in, let them drain for a minute or two, and roll them in very fine powdered sugar. Lay them out to dry on paper, so the sugar will crystallize around each currant, creating a lovely effect. You can prepare all fresh fruit in the same way; a mix of various fruits iced like this and arranged on one dish looks great for a summer dessert.
Time.—1/4 day to dry the fruit.
Time.—A quarter of a day to dry the fruit.
Average cost, 8d. for a pint of iced currants. Seasonable in summer.
Average cost, 8d. for a pint of iced currants. In season in summer.
MELONS.
1559.—This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, and should be sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as fancy dictates. A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged round the melon, has a pretty effect, the colour the former contrasting nicely with the melon. Plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it; and the fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized slices. In America, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt.
1559.—This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked, and should be served on a dish decorated with leaves or flowers, as looks good. A border of small fruits arranged around the melon creates a nice effect, with the colors of the smaller fruits contrasting nicely with the melon. A generous amount of powdered sugar should be provided; the fruit should be sliced lengthwise into moderate-sized pieces. In America, it’s often eaten with pepper and salt.
Average cost,—English, in full season, 3s. 6d. to 5s. each; when scarce, 10s. to 15s.; seasonable, June to August. French, 2s. to 3s. 6d. each; seasonable, June and July. Dutch, 9d. to 2s. each; seasonable, July and August.
Average cost—English, in peak season, £3.50 to £5 each; when scarce, £10 to £15; seasonable, June to August. French, £2 to £3.50 each; seasonable, June and July. Dutch, 75p to £2 each; seasonable, July and August.
MELON.—The melon is a most delicious fruit, succulent, cool, and high-flavoured. With us, it is used only at the dessert, and is generally eaten with sugar, ginger, or pepper; but, in France, it is likewise served up at dinner as a sauce for boiled meats. It grows wild in Tartary, and has been lately found in abundance on the sandy plains of Jeypoor. It was brought originally from Asia by the Romans, and is said to have been common in England in the time of Edward III., though it is supposed that it was lost again, as well as the cucumber, during the wars of York and Lancaster. The best kind, called the Cantaloupe, from the name of a place near Rome where it was first cultivated in Europe, is a native of Armenia, where it grows so plentifully that a horse-load may be bought for a crown.
MELON.—The melon is a delicious fruit, juicy, cool, and full of flavor. Here, it’s only enjoyed as a dessert, usually served with sugar, ginger, or pepper; however, in France, it’s also served at dinner as a sauce for boiled meats. It grows wild in Tartary and has recently been found in large quantities on the sandy plains of Jeypoor. The Romans originally brought it from Asia, and it is said to have been common in England during the time of Edward III, although it’s believed to have been lost again, along with the cucumber, during the Wars of York and Lancaster. The best variety, called the Cantaloupe, named after a place near Rome where it was first cultivated in Europe, is native to Armenia, where it grows so abundantly that you can buy a horse-load for a crown.
PRESERVED MULBERRIES.
1560. INGREDIENTS.—To 2 lbs. of fruit and 1 pint of juice allow 2-1/2 lbs. of loaf sugar.
1560. INGREDIENTS.—For 2 lbs. of fruit and 1 pint of juice, use 2-1/2 lbs. of granulated sugar.
Mode.—Put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan, and simmer it gently until the juice is well drawn. Strain it through a bag, measure it, and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and fruit. Put the sugar into the preserving-pan, moisten it with the juice, boil it up, skim well, and then add the mulberries, which should be ripe, but not soft enough to break to a pulp. Let them stand in the syrup till warm through, then set them on the fire to boil gently; when half done, turn them carefully into an earthen pan, and let them remain till the next day; then boil them as before, and when the syrup is thick, and becomes firm when cold, put the preserve into pots. In making this, care should be taken not to break the mulberries: this may be avoided by very gentle stirring, and by simmering the fruit very slowly.
Mode.—Put some of the fruit into a preserving pan and simmer it gently until the juice is well extracted. Strain it through a bag, measure it, and for every pint, use the appropriate amount of sugar and fruit. Add the sugar to the preserving pan, moisten it with the juice, bring it to a boil, skim it well, and then add the mulberries, which should be ripe but not too soft to mash. Let them soak in the syrup until warmed through, then place them on the heat to boil gently; when they are halfway done, carefully transfer them to an earthenware pan and let them sit until the next day. Then boil them again as before, and when the syrup thickens and firms up when cold, pour the preserve into jars. When making this, be careful not to break the mulberries; this can be avoided by stirring very gently and simmering the fruit slowly.
Time.—3/4 hour to extract the juice;
Time.—45 minutes to extract the juice;
1/4 hour to boil the mulberries the first time, 1/4 hour the second time.
1/4 hour to boil the mulberries the first time, 1/4 hour the second time.
Seasonable in August and September.
In season in August and September.
[Illustration: MULBERRY.]
[Illustration: MULBERRY.]
MULBERRY.—Mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour, and their sub-acid nature. They are considered as cooling, laxative, and generally wholesome. This fruit was very highly esteemed by the Romans, who appear to have preferred it to every other. The mulberry-tree is stated to have been introduced into this country in 1548, being first planted at Sion House, where the original trees still thrive. The planting of them was much encouraged by King James I. about 1605; and considerable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on a large scale for the purpose of making silk; but these endeavours have always failed, the climate being scarcely warm enough.
MULBERRY.—Mulberries are valued for their strong, aromatic flavor and their slightly tart nature. They are considered cooling, laxative, and generally healthy. The Romans held this fruit in high regard, seeming to prefer it over all others. The mulberry tree was introduced to this country in 1548, first planted at Sion House, where the original trees still thrive. King James I encouraged their planting around 1605, and significant efforts were made at that time to raise silkworms on a large scale for silk production; however, these attempts always failed due to the climate being barely warm enough.
TO PRESERVE MORELLO CHERRIES.
1561. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of cherries allow 1-1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 gill of water.
1561. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of cherries, use 1 1/4 pounds of sugar and 1 gill of water.
Mode.—Select ripe cherries; pick off the stalks, and reject all that have any blemishes. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes; put in the cherries, and boil them for 10 minutes, removing the scum as it rises. Then turn the fruit, &c. into a pan, and let it remain until the next day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes, and, if necessary, skim well. Put the cherries into small pots; pour over them the syrup, and, when cold, cover down with oiled papers, and the tops of the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg, and keep in a dry place.
Method.—Choose ripe cherries; remove the stems, and discard any with blemishes. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes; add the cherries and boil them for 10 minutes, skimming off any foam that forms. Then transfer the fruit, etc. into a pan and let it sit until the next day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes, and skim well if needed. Place the cherries into small jars; pour the syrup over them, and when cool, cover with oiled paper, and the tops of the jars with tissue paper brushed with egg white on both sides, and store in a dry place.
Time.—Altogether, 25 minutes to boil.
Time.—Total of 25 minutes to boil.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8p to 10p per lb. pot.
Seasonable.—Make this in July or August.
Timely.—Prepare this in July or August.
THE CHERRY-TREE IN ROME.—The Cherry-tree was introduced into Rome by Lucullus about seventy years before the Christian era; but the capital of the world knew not at first how to appreciate this present as it deserved; for the cherry-tree was propagated so slowly in Italy, that more than a century after its introduction it was far from being generally cultivated. The Romans distinguished three principal species of cherries—the Apronian, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate pulp; the Lutatian, very black and sweet; the Caecilian, round and stubby, and much esteemed. The cherry embellished the third course in Rome and the second at Athens.
THE CHERRY-TREE IN ROME.—The cherry tree was brought to Rome by Lucullus about seventy years before the start of the Christian era; however, the capital of the world didn't initially appreciate this gift as it should have. The cherry tree took so long to grow in Italy that more than a century after its introduction, it was still not widely cultivated. The Romans recognized three main types of cherries—the Apronian, which is a bright red with a firm and tender flesh; the Lutatian, which is very dark and sweet; and the Caecilian, which is round and stubby, and highly valued. Cherries adorned the third course in Rome and the second course in Athens.
PRESERVED NECTARINES.
1562. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water; nectarines.
1562. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of sugar, use 1/4 pint of water; nectarines.
Mode.—Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make a strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion. Put in the nectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar. Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into a pan. The next day boil it again for a few minutes, take out the nectarines, put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down. The syrup and preserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear.
Mode.—Slice the nectarines in half, remove the pits, and prepare a strong syrup with sugar and water in the same ratio as mentioned above. Add the nectarines to the syrup and boil them until they have completely soaked up the sugar. Keep the fruit as intact as possible, and carefully transfer it to a pan. The next day, boil it again for a few minutes, remove the nectarines, and place them into jars. Boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes, pour it over the fruit, and when it's cool, seal the jars. Make sure to skim the syrup and preserve carefully, or it won't be clear.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil the fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil the syrup.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil the fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil the syrup.
Seasonable in August and September, but cheapest in September.
In season in August and September, but the cheapest in September.
STEWED NORMANDY PIPPINS.
1563. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lemon.
1563. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water, 1/2 teaspoon of powdered cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lemon.
Mode.—Well wash the pippins, and put them into 1 quart of water with the above proportion of cinnamon and ginger, and let them stand 12 hours; then put these all together into a stewpan, with the lemon sliced thinly, and half the moist sugar. Let them boil slowly until the pippins are half done; then add the remainder of the sugar, and simmer until they are quite tender. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.
Mode.—Wash the apples well, then put them into 1 quart of water with the same amount of cinnamon and ginger mentioned earlier. Let them sit for 12 hours. After that, combine everything in a stewpan along with the sliced lemon and half of the sugar. Let it boil gently until the apples are half-cooked; then add the rest of the sugar and simmer until they are completely tender. Serve in glass dishes for dessert.
Time.—2 to 3 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. Seasonable.—Suitable for a winter dish.
Time.—2 to 3 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. Seasonable.—Good for a winter dish.
ICED ORANGES.
1564. INGREDIENTS.—Oranges; to every lb. of pounded loaf sugar allow the whites of 2 eggs.
1564. INGREDIENTS.—Oranges; for every pound of powdered loaf sugar, use the whites of 2 eggs.
Mode.—Whisk the whites of the eggs well, stir in the sugar, and beat this mixture for 1/4 hour. Skin the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit; pass a thread through the centre of each orange, dip them into the sugar, and tie them to a stick. Place this stick across the oven, and let the oranges remain until dry, when they will have the appearance of balls of ice. They make a pretty dessert or supper dish. Care must be taken not to have the oven too fierce, or the oranges would scorch and acquire a brown colour, which would entirely spoil their appearance.
Mode.—Whisk the egg whites thoroughly, mix in the sugar, and beat this mixture for 15 minutes. Peel the oranges, removing as much of the white pith as you can without damaging the fruit's pulp; thread a string through the center of each orange, dip them in sugar, and tie them to a stick. Place the stick across the oven, and let the oranges dry until they look like balls of ice. They make a lovely dessert or evening dish. Be careful not to make the oven too hot, or the oranges will burn and turn brown, ruining their appearance.
Time.—From 1/2 to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven.
Time.—It takes about 30 minutes to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven.
Average cost, 1-1/2d. each.
Average cost, 1.5d. each.
Sufficient.—1/2 lb. of sugar to ice 12 oranges.
Sufficient.—0.5 lb. of sugar to frost 12 oranges.
Seasonable from November to May.
Available from November to May.
THE FIRST ORANGE-TREE IN FRANCE.—The first Orange-tree cultivated in the centre of France was to be seen a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It was called Le Connétable (the Constable), because it had belonged to the Connétable de Bourbon, and had been confiscated, together with all property belonging to that prince, after his revolt against his sovereign.
THE FIRST ORANGE-TREE IN FRANCE.—The first Orange tree grown in the center of France was spotted a few years ago in Fontainebleau. It was named Le Connétable (the Constable) because it had belonged to the Connétable de Bourbon and had been seized along with all of that prince's property after his rebellion against his ruler.
COMPOTE OF ORANGES.
1565. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges. Mode.—Peel the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin with which they are surrounded. Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, adding the rind of the orange cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup has been well skimmed, and is quite clear, put in the pieces of orange, and simmer them for 5 minutes. Take them out carefully with a spoon without breaking them, and arrange them on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick; let it cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and, when cold, they will be ready for table.
1565. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges. Mode.—Peel the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as you can, and cut them into small pieces without tearing the thin skin surrounding them. Make the syrup using recipe No. 1512, adding the orange peel cut into thin strips. Once the syrup is well skimmed and completely clear, add the orange pieces and let them simmer for 5 minutes. Carefully remove them with a spoon without breaking them, and place them on a glass dish. Thicken the syrup by boiling it quickly until it reduces; let it cool slightly, then pour it over the oranges. Once it's cold, they will be ready to serve.
[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF ORANGES.]
[Illustration: ORANGE COMPOTE.]
Time.—10 minutes to boil the syrup; 5 minutes to simmer the oranges; 5 minutes to reduce the syrup.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the syrup; 5 minutes to simmer the oranges; 5 minutes to thicken the syrup.
Average cost, 9d.
Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Enough for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable from November to May.
Seasonal from November to May.
THE ORANGE IN PORTUGAL.—The Orange known under the name of "Portugal Orange" comes originally from China. Not more than two centuries ago, the Portuguese brought thence the first scion, which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange-trees in Portugal.
THE ORANGE IN PORTUGAL.—The orange called the "Portugal Orange" originally comes from China. Less than two centuries ago, the Portuguese brought the first sapling over, which has grown so abundantly that we now see entire forests of orange trees in Portugal.
ORANGE AND CLOVES.—It appears to have been the custom formerly, in England, to make new year's presents with oranges stuck full with cloves. We read in one of Ben Jonson's pieces,—the "Christmas Masque,"—"He has an orange and rosemary, but not a clove to stick in it."
ORANGE AND CLOVES.—It seems that it used to be a tradition in England to give oranges filled with cloves as New Year's gifts. We learn from one of Ben Jonson's works, the "Christmas Masque," that "He has an orange and rosemary, but not a clove to stick in it."
ORANGE MARMALADE.
I.
1566. INGREDIENTS.—Equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville oranges; to 12 oranges allow 1 pint of water.
1566. INGREDIENTS.—Equal weight of granulated sugar and Seville oranges; for 12 oranges, use 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville oranges, and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen oranges. Peel them carefully, remove a little of the white pith, and boil the rinds in water 2 hours, changing the water three times to take off a little of the bitter taste. Break the pulp into small pieces, take out all the pips, and cut the boiled rind into chips. Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil this well, skim it, and, when clear, put in the pulp and chips. Boil all together from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; pour it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. The juice and grated rind of 2 lemons to every dozen of oranges, added with the pulp and chips to the syrup, are a very great improvement to this marmalade.
Mode.—Use an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville oranges, and add the same amount of water for every dozen oranges. Peel the oranges carefully, remove some of the white pith, and boil the peels in water for 2 hours, changing the water three times to reduce the bitterness. Break the pulp into small pieces, remove all the seeds, and cut the boiled peels into strips. Prepare a syrup using the sugar and water; boil it well, skim it, and once it’s clear, add the pulp and peels. Boil everything together for 20 minutes to 30 minutes; pour it into jars, and when it's cool, cover with bladders or tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white. Adding the juice and grated rind of 2 lemons for every dozen oranges to the pulp and peels in the syrup greatly enhances this marmalade.
Time.—2 hours to boil the orange-rinds; 10 minutes to boil the syrup; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade.
Time.—2 hours to boil the orange peels; 10 minutes to boil the syrup; 20 minutes to 30 minutes to boil the marmalade.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6p to 8p per lb. jar.
Seasonable.—This should be made in March or April, as Seville oranges are then in perfection.
Seasonable.—This should be made in March or April when Seville oranges are at their best.
II.
1567. INGREDIENTS.—Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar; to every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water.
1567. INGREDIENTS.—Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar; for every lb. of sugar, use 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and take it off in quarters. Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until they are quite soft, and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin; then cut them into chips about 1 inch long, and as thin as possible. Should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp, remove it before cutting the rind into chips. Split open the oranges, scrape out the best part of the pulp, with the juice, rejecting the white pith and pips. Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil it until clear; then put in the chips, pulp, and juice, and boil the marmalade from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, removing all the scum as it rises. In boiling the syrup, clear it carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it.
Mode.—Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and remove it in quarters. Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until they’re really soft and can be easily pierced with the head of a pin; then cut them into chips about 1 inch long and as thin as possible. If there’s a lot of white stringy pulp, remove it before cutting the rind into chips. Split open the oranges, scrape out the best part of the pulp along with the juice, and discard the white pith and seeds. Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil it until it’s clear; then add the chips, pulp, and juice, and boil the marmalade for 20 minutes to half an hour, skimming off any scum as it rises. When boiling the syrup, make sure to clear it of scum before adding the oranges.
Time.—2 hours to boil the rinds, 10 minutes the syrup, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour the marmalade.
Time.—2 hours to boil the peels, 10 minutes for the syrup, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour for the marmalade.
Average cost, 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, 6p to 8p per lb. pot.
Seasonable.—Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are in perfection.
Seasonable.—Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are at their best.
AN EASY WAY OF MAKING ORANGE MARMALADE.
1568. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of pulp allow 1-1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
1568. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of pulp, use 1.5 pounds of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Choose some fine Seville oranges; put them whole into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they become perfectly tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times; drain them, take off the rind, remove the pips from the pulp, weigh it, and to every lb. allow 1-1/2 of loaf sugar and 1/2 pint of the water the oranges were last boiled in. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; put in the pulp, boil for another 10 minutes; then add the peel cut into strips, and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which completes the process. Pour it into jars; let it cool; then cover down with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.
Mode.—Select some good Seville oranges; place them whole in a saucepan with enough water to cover them, and simmer until they are completely soft, changing the water 2 or 3 times; then drain them, remove the skin, take the seeds out of the pulp, weigh it, and for every pound, use 1-1/2 ounces of loaf sugar and 1/2 pint of the water the oranges were last boiled in. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; add in the pulp and boil for another 10 minutes; then add the peel cut into strips and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which finishes the process. Pour it into jars; let it cool; then cover with bladders or tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white.
Time.—2 hours to boil the oranges; altogether 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade.
Time.—2 hours to boil the oranges; total of 1/2 hour to cook the marmalade.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Seasonable—Make this in March or April.
Seasonable—Make this in March or April.
ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY.
1569. INGREDIENTS.—To 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville oranges allow 2 lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of the rind.
1569. INGREDIENTS.—For 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville oranges, use 2 lbs. of honey and 1 lb. of the rind.
Mode.—Peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender, and cut it into strips. Take away the pips from the juice and pulp, and put it with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/2 hour, or until the marmalade is of the proper consistency; put it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders.
Mode.—Peel the oranges and boil the peel in water until it's tender, then cut it into strips. Remove the seeds from the juice and pulp, and combine them with the honey and chips in a preserving pan; boil everything together for about 30 minutes, or until the marmalade reaches the right consistency; pour it into jars, and once it's cool, cover it with bladders.
Time.—2 hours to boil the rind, 1/2 hour the marmalade.
Time.—2 hours to boil the peel, 30 minutes for the marmalade.
Average cost, from 7d. to 9d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 7p to 9p per lb. pot.
Seasonable.—Make this in March or April.
Seasonable.—Make this in March or April.
TO PRESERVE ORANGES.
1570. INGREDIENTS.—Oranges; to every lb. of juice and pulp allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar; to every pint of water 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
1570. INGREDIENTS.—Oranges; for every pound of juice and pulp, use 2 pounds of loaf sugar; for every pint of water, use 1/2 pound of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Wholly grate or peel the oranges, taking off only the thin outside portion of the rind. Make a small incision where the stalk is taken out, squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained, and preserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it. Put the oranges into cold water; let them stand for 3 days, changing the water twice; then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender, and put them to drain. Make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar and water, sufficient to cover the oranges; let them stand in it for 2 or 3 days; then drain them well. Weigh the juice and pulp, allow double their weight of sugar, and boil them together until the scum ceases to rise, which must all be carefully removed; put in the oranges, boil them for 10 minutes, place them in jars, pour over them the syrup, and, when cold, cover down. They will be fit for use in a week.
Mode.—Completely grate or peel the oranges, removing just the thin outer layer of the rind. Make a small cut where the stem was, squeeze out as much juice as possible, and keep it in a bowl with the pulp. Soak the oranges in cold water for 3 days, changing the water twice; then boil them in fresh water until they are very soft, and let them drain. Prepare a syrup with the appropriate amount of sugar and water to fully cover the oranges; let them soak in it for 2 or 3 days, then drain them well. Weigh the juice and pulp, use double their weight in sugar, and boil them together until no more foam rises, which should be carefully removed; add the oranges, boil for 10 minutes, place them in jars, pour the syrup over them, and cover once cooled. They will be ready to use in a week.
Time.—3 days for the oranges to remain in water, 3 days in the syrup; 1/2 hour to boil the pulp, 10 minutes the oranges.
Time.—3 days to soak the oranges in water, 3 days in the syrup; 30 minutes to boil the pulp, 10 minutes for the oranges.
Seasonable.—This preserve should be made in February or March, when oranges are plentiful.
Seasonable.—This jam should be made in February or March, when oranges are abundant.
ORANGE SALAD.
1571. INGREDIENTS.—6 oranges, 1/4 lb. of muscatel raisins, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
1571. INGREDIENTS.—6 oranges, 1/4 lb. of muscatel raisins, 2 oz. of powdered sugar, 4 tablespoons of brandy.
Mode.—Peel 5 of the oranges; divide them into slices without breaking the pulp, and arrange them on a glass dish. Stone the raisins, mix them with the sugar and brandy, and mingle them with the oranges. Squeeze the juice of the other orange over the whole, and the dish is ready for table. A little pounded spice may be put in when the flavour is liked; but this ingredient must be added very sparingly.
Mode.—Peel 5 oranges; cut them into slices without breaking the segments, and arrange them on a glass dish. Remove the pits from the raisins, mix them with sugar and brandy, then combine them with the oranges. Squeeze the juice of the other orange over everything, and the dish is ready to serve. A bit of ground spice can be added if desired, but use it very sparingly.
Average cost, 1s.
Average price, 1s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Fits 5 to 6 people.
Seasonable from November to May.
Seasonal from November to May.
COMPOTE OF PEACHES.
1572. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small peaches.
1572. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small peaches.
Mode.—Peaches that are not very large, and that would not look well for dessert, answer very nicely for a compôte. Divide the peaches, take out the stones, and pare the fruit; make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, put in the peaches, and stew them gently for about 10 minutes. Take them out without breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, it will be ready for table.
Mode.—Peaches that aren't too large and wouldn’t look great for dessert work really well for a compôte. Cut the peaches in half, remove the pits, and peel the fruit; make a syrup using recipe No. 1512, add the peaches, and simmer them gently for about 10 minutes. Carefully take them out without breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and it will be ready to serve when it's cold.
Time.—10 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Duration: 10 minutes. Average cost: 1s. 2d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in August and September.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. In season in August and September.
PEACH AND NECTARINE.—The peach and nectarine, which are among the most delicious of our fruits, are considered as varieties of the same species, produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches on one part and nectarines on another; and even a single fruit has had down on one side, and on the other none; the trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows naturally. At Montreuil, a village near Paris, almost the whole population is employed in the cultivation of peaches; and this occupation has maintained the inhabitants for ages, and, in consequence, they raise better peaches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia, peaches grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests; but the fruit is of little value for the table, being employed only in fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy. On the east side of the Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields and in the mountains, and are dried as an article of food. The young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery, from their agreeable flavour; and a liqueur resembling the fine noyeau of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy sweetened with sugar and fined with milk: gin may also be flavoured in the same manner. The kernels of the fruit have the same flavour. The nectarine is said to have received its name from nectar, the particular drink of the gods. Though it is considered as the same species as the peach, it is not known which of the varieties come from the other; the nectarine, is by some considered as the superior fruit.
PEACH AND NECTARINE.—Peaches and nectarines, some of the tastiest fruits we have, are viewed as varieties of the same species that come from cultivation. Peaches have a soft fuzz, while nectarines are smooth. However, to demonstrate their identity as the same species, some trees produce peaches on one side and nectarines on the other; there are even cases where a single fruit has fuzz on one side and none on the other. The trees look almost identical, as do the blossoms. Pliny mentions that peaches originally came from Persia, where they grow naturally. In Montreuil, a village near Paris, nearly the entire population works in peach cultivation, a trade that has supported the community for generations, leading them to produce better peaches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia, peaches grow almost wild in orchards that resemble forests; however, these fruits are of little value for eating and are mainly used to feed pigs and to make peach brandy. On the eastern side of the Andes, peaches grow wild in cornfields and mountains and are dried for food. The young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cooking for their pleasant flavor; a liqueur similar to the fine noyeau of Martinique can be made by soaking them in brandy sweetened with sugar and filtered with milk; gin can also be flavored this way. The kernels of the fruit have a similar taste. The nectarine is thought to be named after nectar, the drink of the gods. While it’s considered the same species as the peach, it’s unclear which variety is the original; some people view nectarines as the superior fruit.
PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY.
1573. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit weighed before being stoned, allow 1/4 lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar; brandy.
1573. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit measured before pitting, use 1/4 pound of finely ground loaf sugar; brandy.
Mode.—Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather; wipe and weigh it, and remove the stones as carefully as possible, without injuring the peaches much. Put them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them pounded loaf sugar in the above proportion, and pour brandy over the fruit. Cover the jar down closely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil. Take the fruit out carefully, without breaking it; put it into small jars, pour over it the brandy, and, when cold, exclude the air by covering the jars with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. Apricots may be done in the same manner, and, if properly prepared, will be found delicious.
Mode.—Gather the fruit in dry weather; clean and weigh it, and carefully remove the stones without damaging the peaches too much. Place them in a jar, sprinkle crushed loaf sugar over them in the specified amount, and pour brandy over the fruit. Seal the jar tightly, put it in a saucepan of boiling water on the stove, and bring the brandy to a simmer, but don’t let it boil. Carefully take the fruit out without breaking it; place it in small jars, pour the brandy over it, and when it’s cool, seal off the air by covering the jars with bladders or tissue paper brushed with egg white on both sides. Apricots can be done the same way, and if prepared properly, they will be delicious.
Time.—From 10 to 20 minutes to bring the brandy to the simmering-point.
Time.—It takes about 10 to 20 minutes to heat the brandy to a simmer.
Seasonable in August and September.
In season in August and September.
BAKED PEARS.
1574. INGREDIENTS.—12 pears, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10 whole allspice; to every pint of water allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
1574. INGREDIENTS.—12 pears, the peel of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10 whole allspice; for each pint of water, use 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Pare and cut the pears into halves, and, should they be very large, into quarters; leave the stalks on, and carefully remove the cores. Place them in a clean baking-jar, with a closely-fitting lid; add to them the lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of 1/2 lemon, the cloves, pounded allspice, and sufficient water just to cover the whole, with sugar in the above proportion. Cover the jar down closely, put it into a very cool oven, and bake the pears from 5 to 6 hours, but be very careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the colour of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added; but this will not be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked.
Method.—Peel and cut the pears in half, and if they are really large, cut them into quarters; leave the stems on, and carefully remove the cores. Place them in a clean baking jar with a tight-fitting lid; add strips of lemon peel, the juice of half a lemon, cloves, crushed allspice, and just enough water to cover everything, along with the specified amount of sugar. Close the jar tightly, place it in a very cool oven, and bake the pears for 5 to 6 hours, making sure the oven isn’t too hot. To enhance the color of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal can be added, but this won't be necessary if the pears are baked gently.
Time.—Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow oven.
Time.—Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very low oven.
Average cost, 1d. to 2d. each.
Average cost, 1 penny to 2 pence each.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable from September to January.
Available from September to January.
PEAR.—The pear, like the apple, is indigenous to this country; but the wild pear is a very unsatisfactory fruit. The best varieties were brought from the East by the Romans, who cultivated them with care, and probably introduced some of their best sorts into this island, to which others were added by the inhabitants of the monasteries. The Dutch and Flemings, as well as the French, have excelled in the cultivation of the pear, and most of the late varieties introduced are from France and Flanders. The pear is a hardy tree, and a longer liver than the apple: it has been known to exist for centuries. There are now about 150 varieties of this fruit. Though perfectly wholesome when ripe, the pear is not so when green; but in this state it is fit for stewing. An agreeable beverage, called perry, is made from pears, and the varieties which are least fit for eating make the best perry.
PEAR.—The pear, like the apple, is native to this country; however, the wild pear is not a very good fruit. The best varieties were brought from the East by the Romans, who cultivated them carefully and likely introduced some of their best types to this island, with additional varieties brought by the monks. The Dutch, Flemings, and French have all excelled in growing pears, and most of the recent varieties come from France and Flanders. The pear tree is sturdy and lives longer than the apple tree; some have been known to live for centuries. There are now about 150 varieties of this fruit. While pears are perfectly healthy when ripe, they are not safe to eat when green; however, they can be used for stewing in that state. An enjoyable drink called perry is made from pears, and the varieties that are least suitable for eating produce the best perry.
PRESERVED PEARS.
1575. INGREDIENTS.—Jargonelle pears; to every lb. of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water.
1575. INGREDIENTS.—Jargonelle pears; for every pound of sugar, use 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Procure some Jargonelle pears, not too ripe; put them into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them till rather tender, but do not allow them to break; then put them into cold water. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes, skim well, put in the pears, and simmer them gently for 5 minutes. Repeat the simmering for 3 successive days, taking care not to let the fruit break. The last time of boiling, the syrup should be made rather richer, and the fruit boiled for 10 minutes. When the pears are done, drain them from the syrup, and dry them in the sun, or in a cool oven; or they may be kept in the syrup, and dried as they are wanted.
Mode.—Get some Jargonelle pears, ensuring they aren't too ripe; place them in a saucepan with enough water to cover them, and simmer until they're slightly tender, but don't let them fall apart; then transfer them to cold water. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes, skim off any foam, add the pears, and simmer them gently for another 5 minutes. Repeat this simmering for 3 consecutive days, being careful not to let the fruit break. For the final boiling, make the syrup a bit thicker, and cook the fruit for 10 minutes. Once the pears are finished, drain them from the syrup, and let them dry in the sun or in a cool oven; alternatively, they can be stored in the syrup and dried as needed.
Time.—1/2 hour to simmer the pears in water, 20 minutes in the syrup.
Time.—30 minutes to simmer the pears in water, 20 minutes in the syrup.
Average cost, 1d. to 2d. each.
Average cost, 1 to 2 pence each.
Seasonable.—Most plentiful in September and October.
Seasonable.—Most abundant in September and October.
STEWED PEARS.
[Illustration: STEWED PEARS.]
[Illustration: STEWED PEARS.]
1576. INGREDIENTS.—8 large pears, 5 oz. of loaf sugar, 6 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port wine, a few drops of prepared cochineal.
1576. INGREDIENTS.—8 large pears, 5 oz. of granulated sugar, 6 cloves, 6 whole allspice, 1/2 pint of water, 1/4 pint of port wine, a few drops of prepared cochineal.
Mode.—Pare the pears, halve them, remove the cores, and leave the stalks on; put them into a lined saucepan with the above ingredients, and let them simmer very gently until tender, which will be in from 3 to 4 hours, according to the quality of the pears. They should be watched, and, when done, carefully lifted out on to a glass dish without breaking them. Boil up the syrup quickly for 2 or 3 minutes; allow it to cool a little, pour it over the pears, and let them get perfectly cold. To improve the colour of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added, which rather enhances the beauty of this dish. The fruit must not be boiled fast, but only simmered, and watched that it be not too much done.
Mode.—Peel the pears, cut them in half, remove the cores, and leave the stalks on; place them in a lined saucepan with the ingredients mentioned above, and let them simmer very gently until they are tender, which will take about 3 to 4 hours, depending on the quality of the pears. They should be monitored, and when they are ready, carefully lift them onto a glass dish without breaking them. Boil the syrup quickly for 2 or 3 minutes; let it cool slightly, pour it over the pears, and allow them to cool completely. To enhance the color of the fruit, you can add a few drops of prepared cochineal, which makes this dish more visually appealing. The fruit should not be boiled rapidly, but only simmered and watched to ensure it doesn’t cook too much.
Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average cost, £0.075.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to January.
Enough for 5 or 6 people. In season from September to January.
THE BON CHRETIEN PEAR.—The valuable variety of pear called Bon Chrétien, which comes to our tables in winter, either raw or cooked, received its name through the following incident:—Louis XI., king of France, had sent for Saint Francois de Paule from the lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his health through his intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear; and, as he was called at court Le Bon Chrétien, this fruit obtained the name of him to whom France owed its introduction.
THE BON CHRETIEN PEAR.—The valuable pear variety known as Bon Chrétien, which graces our winter tables either raw or cooked, got its name from the following story:—Louis XI., the king of France, summoned Saint Francois de Paule from southern Calabria, hoping to regain his health through the saint's intercession. The saint brought along the seeds of this pear; and because he was referred to at court as Le Bon Chrétien, this fruit was named after the person who introduced it to France.
PINEAPPLE CHIPS.
1577. INGREDIENTS.—Pineapples; sugar to taste.
1577. INGREDIENTS.—Pineapples; sugar to preference.
Mode.—Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on dishes, and strew over it plenty of pounded sugar. Keep it in a hot closet, or very slow oven, 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry; then put the pieces of pine on tins, and place them in a quick oven for 10 minutes. Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, with paper between each layer.
Mode.—Peel and slice the fruit thinly, place it on plates, and sprinkle plenty of powdered sugar over it. Keep it in a warm cupboard or very low oven for 8 to 10 days, turning the fruit every day until it's dry. Then lay the pieces of fruit on baking sheets and put them in a hot oven for 10 minutes. Let them cool, and store them in dry containers, with paper between each layer.
Time.—8 to 10 days.
Duration.—8 to 10 days.
Seasonable.—Foreign pines, in July and August.
Seasonable.—Imported pines, in July and August.
PRESERVED PINEAPPLE.
1578. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit, weighed after being pared, allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar; 1/4 pint of water.
1578. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, measured after being peeled, use 1 pound of granulated sugar; 1/4 pint of water.
Mode.—The pines for making this preserve should be perfectly sound but ripe. Cut them into rather thick slices, as the fruit shrinks very much in the boiling. Pare off the rind carefully, that none of the pine be wasted; and, in doing so, notch it in and out, as the edge cannot be smoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve a portion of the sugar in a preserving-pan with 1/4 pint of water; when this is melted, gradually add the remainder of the sugar, and boil it until it forms a clear syrup, skimming well. As soon as this is the case, put in the pieces of pine, and boil well for at least 1/2 hour, or until it looks nearly transparent. Put it into pots, cover down when cold, and store away in a dry place.
Mode.—The pineapples for making this preserve should be perfectly fresh but ripe. Cut them into fairly thick slices, as the fruit shrinks a lot when boiled. Carefully peel off the skin, making sure not to waste any of the pineapple; while doing this, make notches in and out, since the edge can't be cut smoothly without losing a lot. Dissolve some sugar in a preserving pan with 1/4 pint of water; once it's melted, gradually add the rest of the sugar and boil it until it turns into a clear syrup, skimming off any foam. As soon as it reaches this stage, add in the pineapple pieces and boil for at least 1/2 hour, or until it looks almost transparent. Pour it into jars, cover once it's cool, and store in a dry place.
Time.—1/2 hour to boil the fruit. Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. pot.
Time.—30 minutes to boil the fruit. Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. pot.
Seasonable.—Foreign pines, in July and August.
Seasonable.—Imported pine trees, in July and August.
THE PINEAPPLE IN HEATHENDOM.—Heathen nations invented protective divinities for their orchards (such as Pomona, Vertumnus, Priapus, &c.), and benevolent patrons for their fruits: thus, the olive-tree grew under the auspices of Minerva; the Muses cherished the palm-tree, Bacchus the fig and grape, and the pine and its cone were consecrated to the great Cyble.
THE PINEAPPLE IN HEATHENDOM.—Pagan nations created protective gods for their orchards (like Pomona, Vertumnus, Priapus, etc.) and kind patrons for their fruits: for example, the olive tree thrived under Minerva's care; the Muses nurtured the palm tree, Bacchus looked after the fig and grape, and the pine and its cone were dedicated to the great Cybele.
PRESERVED PINEAPPLE, for Present Use.
Canned Pineapple, for Immediate Use.
1579. INGREDIENTS.—Pineapple, sugar, water.
1579. INGREDIENTS.—Pineapple, sugar, water.
Mode.—Cut the pine into slices 1/4 inch in thickness; peel them, and remove the hard part from the middle. Put the parings and hard pieces into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and boil for 1/4 hour. Strain the liquor, and put in the slices of pine. Stew them for 10 minutes, add sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, and boil again for another 1/4 hour; skim well, and the preserve will be ready for use. It must be eaten soon, as it will keep but a very short time.
Mode.—Cut the pineapple into 1/4-inch thick slices; peel them and remove the tough core from the center. Put the peelings and tough pieces into a saucepan with enough water to cover them, and boil for 15 minutes. Strain the liquid and add the pineapple slices. Stew them for 10 minutes, add enough sugar to sweeten everything nicely, and boil again for another 15 minutes; skim well, and the preserve will be ready to use. It should be consumed soon, as it will only last a very short time.
Time.—1/4 hour to boil the parings in water; 10 minutes to boil the pine without sugar, 1/4 hour with sugar.
Time.—15 minutes to boil the peels in water; 10 minutes to boil the pineapple without sugar, 15 minutes with sugar.
Average cost.—Foreign pines, 1s. to 3s. each; English, from 2s. to 12s. per lb.
Average cost.—Foreign pines, 1 to 3 shillings each; English, from 2 to 12 shillings per pound.
Seasonable.—Foreign, in July and August; English, all the year.
In season.—Imported, in July and August; local, all year round.
PLUM JAM.
1580. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of plums, weighed before being stoned, allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1580. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of plums, weighed before pitting, use 3/4 pound of loaf sugar.
Mode.—In making plum jam, the quantity of sugar for each lb. of fruit must be regulated by the quality and size of the fruit, some plums requiring much more sugar than others. Divide the plums, take out the stones, and put them on to large dishes, with roughly-pounded sugar sprinkled over them in the above proportion, and let them remain for one day; then put them into a preserving-pan, stand them by the side of the fire to simmer gently for about 1/2 hour, and then boil them rapidly for another 15 minutes. The scum must be carefully removed as it rises, and the jam must be well stirred all the time, or it will burn at the bottom of the pan, and so spoil the colour and flavour of the preserve. Some of the stones may be cracked, and a few kernels added to the jam just before it is done: these impart a very delicious flavour to the plums. The above proportion of sugar would answer for Orleans plums; the Impératrice Magnum-bonum, and Winesour would not require quite so much.
Mode.—When making plum jam, the amount of sugar needed for each pound of fruit should be adjusted based on the fruit's quality and size, as some plums need significantly more sugar than others. Separate the plums, remove the stones, and place them in large dishes, sprinkling them with coarsely crushed sugar in the specified amount, and let them sit for a day. Next, transfer them to a preserving pan, place it next to the fire, and let them simmer gently for about 30 minutes, then boil rapidly for an additional 15 minutes. Make sure to remove any scum that forms on the surface as it rises, and stir the jam continuously to prevent it from burning on the bottom of the pan, which would ruin the color and flavor of the preserve. You can crack some of the stones and add a few kernels to the jam just before it’s finished; they add a delightful flavor to the plums. The sugar amount suggested works well for Orleans plums; however, the Impératrice Magnum-bonum and Winesour varieties won’t need quite as much.
Time.—1/2 hour to simmer gently, 1/4 hour to boil rapidly.
Time.—30 minutes to simmer gently, 15 minutes to boil rapidly.
Best plums for preserving.—Violets, Mussels, Orleans, Impératrice Magnum-bonum, and Winesour.
Best plums for preserving.—Violets, Mussels, Orleans, Impératrice Magnum-bonum, and Winesour.
Seasonable from the end of July to the beginning of October.
In season from late July to early October.
PLUMS.—The Damson, or Damascene plum, takes its name from Damascus, where it grows in great quantities, and whence it was brought into Italy about 114 B.C. The Orleans plum is from France. The Greengage is called after the Gage family, who first brought it into England from the monastery of the Chartreuse, at Paris, where it still bears the name of Reine Claude. The Magnum-bonum is our largest plum, and greatly esteemed for preserves and culinary purposes. The best sorts of plums are agreeable at the dessert, and, when perfectly ripe, are wholesome; but some are too astringent. They lose much of their bad qualities by baking, and are extensively used, from their cheapness, when in full season, in tarts and preserves; but they are not a very wholesome fruit, and should be eaten in moderation.
PLUMS.—The Damson, or Damascene plum, gets its name from Damascus, where it grows in large quantities, and was brought to Italy around 114 B.C. The Orleans plum comes from France. The Greengage is named after the Gage family, who first introduced it to England from the Chartreuse monastery in Paris, where it’s still called Reine Claude. The Magnum-bonum is our largest plum and is highly valued for jams and cooking. The best varieties of plums are pleasant at dessert, and when fully ripe, they are nutritious; however, some can be too bitter. They lose many undesirable qualities when baked and are widely used, due to their affordability in season, in pies and preserves; but they aren’t the healthiest fruit and should be consumed in moderation.
PRESERVED PLUMS.
1581. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar; for the thin syrup, 1/4 lb. of sugar to each pint of water.
1581. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, use ¾ pound of loaf sugar; for the thin syrup, use ¼ pound of sugar for each pint of water.
Mode.—Select large ripe plums; slightly prick them, to prevent them from bursting, and simmer them very gently in a syrup made with the above proportion of sugar and water. Put them carefully into a pan, let the syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and allow them to remain for two days. Having previously weighed the other sugar, dip the lumps quickly into water, and put them into a preserving-pan with no more water than hangs about them; and boil the sugar to a syrup, carefully skimming it. Drain the plums from the first syrup; put them into the fresh syrup, and simmer them very gently until they are clear; lift them out singly into pots, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover down to exclude the air. This preserve will remain good some time, if kept in a dry place, and makes a very nice addition to a dessert. The magnum-bonum plums answer for this preserve better than any other kind of plum. Greengages are also very delicious done in this manner.
Method.—Choose large, ripe plums; lightly prick them to stop them from bursting, and gently simmer them in a syrup made from the sugar and water mentioned above. Carefully place them in a pan, let the syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and let them sit for two days. After weighing the other sugar, quickly dip the lumps in water, and put them in a preserving pan with just enough water that clings to them; boil the sugar into a syrup, carefully skimming it. Drain the plums from the first syrup, place them into the new syrup, and gently simmer until they become clear. Remove them one by one into jars, pour the syrup over them, and once cold, seal them to keep out the air. This preserve will stay good for a while if stored in a dry place and makes a great addition to dessert. The magnum-bonum plums work best for this preserve compared to other types of plums. Greengages are also very tasty prepared this way.
Time.—1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup; 20 minutes to 1/2 hour very gentle simmering in the second.
Time.—15 minutes to 20 minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup; 20 minutes to 30 minutes of very gentle simmering in the second.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
TO PRESERVE PLUMS DRY.
1582. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water. Mode.—Gather the plums when they are full-grown and just turning colour; prick them, put them into a saucepan of cold water, and set them on the fire until the water is on the point of boiling. Then take them out, drain them, and boil them gently in syrup made with the above proportion of sugar and water; and if the plums shrink, and will not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan; give them another boil, skim, and set them by. The next day add some more sugar, boiled almost to candy, to the fruit and syrup; put all together into a wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for 2 nights; then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and dry them in a cool oven.
1582. INGREDIENTS.—For every lb. of sugar, use 1/4 pint of water. Mode.—Pick the plums when they're fully grown and just starting to change color; prick them, place them in a saucepan with cold water, and heat until the water is about to boil. Then remove them, drain them, and gently boil them in a syrup made with the specified sugar and water ratio; if the plums shrink and don’t absorb the sugar, prick them while they’re in the pan; give them another boil, skim, and set aside. The next day, add more sugar, boiled almost to a candy stage, to the fruit and syrup; combine everything into a wide-mouthed jar, and put in a cool oven for 2 nights; then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a bit of powdered sugar on top, and dry them in a cool oven.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes to boil the plums in the syrup. Seasonable from August to October.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes to boil the plums in the syrup. Seasonable from August to October.
PLUMS.—The wild sloe is the parent of the plum, but the acclimated kinds come from the East. The cultivation of this fruit was probably attended to very early in England, as Gerrard informs us that, in 1597, he had in his garden, in Holborn, threescore sorts. The sloe is a shrub common in our hedgerows, and belongs to the natural order Amygdaleae; the fruit is about the size of a large pea, of a black colour, and covered with a bloom of a bright blue. It is one of the few indigenous to our island. The juice is extremely sharp and astringent, and was formerly employed as a medicine, where astringents were necessary. It now assists in the manufacture of a red wine made to imitate port, and also for adulteration. The leaves have been used to adulterate tea; the fruit, when ripe, makes a good preserve.
PLUMS.—The wild sloe is the ancestor of the plum, but the domesticated varieties come from the East. The cultivation of this fruit likely began very early in England, as Gerrard mentions that in 1597, he had sixty different types in his garden in Holborn. The sloe is a shrub commonly found in our hedgerows and belongs to the natural order Amygdaleae; the fruit is about the size of a large pea, black in color, and covered with a bright blue bloom. It is one of the few plants native to our island. The juice is very tart and astringent and was once used as a medicine for astringent needs. It is now used in producing a red wine meant to mimic port, as well as for adulteration. The leaves have been used to mix with tea; the fruit, when ripe, makes a good preserve.
STEWED FRENCH PLUMS.
(A Dessert Dish.)
(A Dessert Dish.)
1583. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of French plums, 3/4 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1 glass of port wine, the rind and juice of 1 lemon.
1583. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lbs. of French plums, 3/4 pint of syrup No. 1512, 1 glass of port wine, the zest and juice of 1 lemon.
Mode.—Stew the plums gently in water for 1 hour; strain the water, and with it make the syrup. When it is clear, put in the plums with the port wine, lemon-juice, and rind, and simmer very gently for 1-1/2 hour. Arrange the plums on a glass dish, take out the lemon-rind, pour the syrup over the plums, and, when cold, they will be ready for table. A little allspice stewed with the fruit is by many persons considered an improvement.
Mode.—Gently stew the plums in water for 1 hour; strain the water and use it to make the syrup. Once it’s clear, add the plums along with the port wine, lemon juice, and lemon rind, and simmer very gently for 1.5 hours. Arrange the plums on a glass dish, remove the lemon rind, pour the syrup over the plums, and when it’s cold, they’ll be ready to serve. Many people think that adding a little allspice while stewing the fruit makes it even better.
Time.—1 hour to stew the plums in water, 1-1/2 hour in the syrup.
Time.—1 hour to simmer the plums in water, 1-1/2 hours in the syrup.
Average cost,—plums sufficiently good for stewing, 1s. per lb.
Average cost,—plums good enough for stewing, £0.05 per lb.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Enough for 7 or 8 people.
Seasonable in winter.
In season during winter.
PRESERVED PUMPKIN.
1584. INGREDIENTS.—To each lb. of pumpkin allow 1 lb. of roughly pounded loaf sugar, 1 gill of lemon-juice.
1584. INGREDIENTS.—For each pound of pumpkin, use 1 pound of coarsely crushed loaf sugar and 1 gill of lemon juice.
Mode.—Obtain a good sweet pumpkin; halve it, take out the seeds, and pare off the rind; cut it into neat slices, or into pieces about the size of a five-shilling piece. Weigh the pumpkin, put the slices in a pan or deep dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between them; pour the lemon-juice over the top, and let the whole remain for 2 or 3 days. Boil altogether, adding 1/4 pint of water to every 3 lbs. of sugar used until the pumpkin becomes tender; then turn the whole into a pan, where let it remain for a week; then drain off the syrup, boil it until it is quite thick; skim, and pour it, boiling, over the pumpkin. A little bruised ginger and lemon-rind, thinly pared, may be boiled in the syrup to flavour the pumpkin.
Mode.—Get a nice sweet pumpkin; cut it in half, remove the seeds, and peel off the skin; slice it into neat pieces or chunks about the size of a five-shilling coin. Weigh the pumpkin, then layer the slices in a pan or deep dish, sprinkling sugar between each layer; pour lemon juice over the top and let it sit for 2 or 3 days. Cook everything together, adding 1/4 pint of water for every 3 lbs. of sugar until the pumpkin is tender; then transfer it to a pan and let it sit for a week; after that, drain off the syrup, boil it until it thickens; skim off the foam, and pour it boiling hot over the pumpkin. You can add some bruised ginger and thinly sliced lemon peel to the syrup for extra flavor.
Time.—From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the pumpkin tender.
Time.—Boil the pumpkin for 30 to 45 minutes until tender.
Average cost, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, 5 to 7 pence per lb. pot.
Seasonable in September and October; but better when made in the latter month, as the pumpkin is then quite ripe.
In season in September and October; but tastes better when made in the latter month, as the pumpkin is then fully ripe.
Note.—Vegetable marrows are very good prepared in the same manner, but are not quite so rich.
Note.—Zucchini are great when prepared the same way, but they're not quite as rich.
QUINCE JELLY.
1585. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar.
1585. INGREDIENTS.—For each pint of juice, use 1 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Pare and slice the quinces, and put them into a preserving-pan with sufficient water to float them. Boil them until tender, and the fruit is reduced to a pulp; strain off the clear juice, and to each pint allow the above proportion of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for about 3/4 hour; remove all the scum as it rises, and, when the jelly appears firm when a little is poured on a plate, it is done. The residue left on the sieve will answer to make a common marmalade, for immediate use, by boiling it with 1/2 lb. of common sugar to every lb. of pulp.
Mode.—Peel and slice the quinces, then place them in a pot with enough water to cover them. Cook them until they're soft and have turned into a pulp; strain out the clear juice, and for each pint of juice, use the corresponding amount of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for about 45 minutes; skim off any foam that forms on top, and when the jelly seems firm after a bit is poured onto a plate, it's ready. The leftover pulp in the sieve can be used to make a basic marmalade for immediate use by cooking it with 1/2 lb. of regular sugar for every lb. of pulp.
Time.—3 hours to boil the quinces in water; 3/4 hour to boil the jelly.
Time.—3 hours to cook the quinces in water; 45 minutes to cook the jelly.
Average cost, from 8d. to 10d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8p to 10p per lb. pot.
Seasonable from August to October.
Available from August to October.
QUINCE MARMALADE.
1586. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of quince pulp allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1586. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of quince pulp, use 3/4 pound of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Slice the quinces into a preserving-pan, adding sufficient water for them to float; place them on the fire to stew, until reduced to a pulp, keeping them stirred occasionally from the bottom, to prevent their burning; then pass the pulp through a hair sieve, to keep back the skin and seeds. Weigh the pulp, and to each lb. add lump sugar in the above proportion, broken very small. Place the whole on the fire, and keep it well stirred from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, until reduced to a marmalade, which may be known by dropping a little on a cold plate, when, if it jellies, it is done. Put it into jars whilst hot; let it cool, and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to the size of the mouths of the jars. The tops of them may be afterwards covered with pieces of bladder, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.
Mode.—Slice the quinces into a pot for making preserves, adding enough water so they can float. Put the pot on the stove to cook until they turn into a pulp, stirring occasionally from the bottom to prevent burning. Then, strain the pulp through a fine sieve to remove the skin and seeds. Weigh the pulp and add crushed lump sugar in the same amount, broken into very small pieces. Place everything back on the stove, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until it thickens into a marmalade, which you can test by dropping a bit on a cold plate; if it sets, it's ready. Pour it into jars while hot, let it cool, and cover with pieces of oiled paper cut to fit the jar openings. The tops can later be covered with pieces of bladder or tissue paper brushed on both sides with egg white.
Time.—3 hours to boil the quinces without the sugar; 3/4 hour to boil the pulp with the sugar.
Time.—3 hours to boil the quinces without the sugar; 45 minutes to boil the pulp with the sugar.
Average cost, from 8d. to 9d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 8p to 9p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 pint of sliced quinces for a lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Use 1 pint of sliced quinces for a 1 lb. jar.
Seasonable in August, September, and October.
In season in August, September, and October.
RAISIN CHEESE.
1587. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of raisins allow a lb. of loaf sugar; pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste.
1587. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of raisins, use a pound of loaf sugar; add pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste.
Mode.—Stone the raisins; put them into a stewpan with the sugar, cinnamon, and cloves, and let them boil for 1-1/2 hour, stirring all the time. Let the preparation cool a little, pour it into a glass dish, and garnish with strips of candied lemon-peel and citron. This will remain good some time, if kept in a dry place.
Mode.—Remove the pits from the raisins; place them in a saucepan with the sugar, cinnamon, and cloves, and let them boil for 1.5 hours, stirring continuously. Allow the mixture to cool slightly, then pour it into a glass dish and top with strips of candied lemon peel and citron. This will stay good for a while if stored in a dry place.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 9d. Sufficient.—1 lb. for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—1.5 hours. Average cost, 9d. Sufficient.—1 lb. for 4 or 5 people. Seasonable at any time.
RASPBERRY JAM.
1588. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of raspberries allow 1 lb. of sugar, 1/4 pint of red-currant juice.
1588. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of raspberries, add 1 pound of sugar and 1/4 pint of red-currant juice.
Mode.—Let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon after it is picked as possible. Take off the stalks, put the raspberries into a preserving-pan, break them well with a wooden spoon, and let them boil for 1/4 hour, keeping them well stirred. Then add the currant-juice and sugar, and boil again for 1/2 hour. Skim the jam well after the sugar is added, or the preserve will not be clear. The addition of the currant juice is a very great improvement to this preserve, as it gives it a piquant taste, which the flavour of the raspberries seems to require.
Mode.—Gather the fruit for this preserve on a nice day and use it as soon as possible after picking. Remove the stems, place the raspberries in a preserving pan, mash them well with a wooden spoon, and let them boil for 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Then add the currant juice and sugar, and boil again for 30 minutes. Make sure to skim the jam well after adding the sugar, or the preserve won’t be clear. Adding currant juice greatly enhances this preserve, giving it a tangy flavor that the raspberries really need.
Time.—1/4 hour to simmer the fruit without the sugar; 1/4 hour after it is added.
Time.—15 minutes to simmer the fruit without the sugar; 15 minutes after it is added.
Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 6p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot.
Sufficient.—Use around 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. jar.
Seasonable in July and August.
Typical in July and August.
RASPBERRY JELLY.
1589. INGREDIENTS.—To each pint of juice allow 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1589. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of juice, use 3/4 lb. of granulated sugar.
Mode.—Let the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite ripe, and picked from the stalks; put them into a large jar, after breaking the fruit a little with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a saucepan of boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which will be in from 3/4 to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or cloth; measure the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion of loaf sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over the fire, and boil gently until the jelly thickens when a little is poured on a plate; carefully remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jelly into small pots, cover down, and keep in a dry place. This jelly answers for making raspberry cream, and for flavouring various sweet dishes, when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable.
Mode.—Gather fresh, ripe raspberries directly from the stalks. Place them in a large jar after gently mashing the fruit with a wooden spoon, and then put the jar, covered, in a saucepan of boiling water. Once the juice is extracted, which will take about 45 minutes to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine sieve or cloth. Measure the juice, and for every pint, add the specified amount of loaf sugar. Combine the juice and sugar in a preserving pan, place it over heat, and simmer until the jelly thickens when a little is poured on a plate; carefully skim off any scum as it forms. Pour the jelly into small jars, seal them, and store in a dry place. This jelly can be used to make raspberry cream and to flavor various sweet dishes when fresh fruit isn't available in winter.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour to draw the juice.
Time.—About 45 minutes to 1 hour to extract the juice.
Average cost, from 9d. to 1s. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 9d. to 1s. per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of juice.
Sufficient.—From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should produce 1 pint of juice.
Seasonable.—This should be made in July or August.
Seasonable.—This should be made in July or August.
RHUBARB JAM.
1590. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar, the rind of 1/2 lemon.
1590. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of rhubarb, use 1 pound of granulated sugar and the zest of half a lemon.
Mode.—Wipe the rhubarb perfectly dry, take off the string or peel, and weigh it; put it into a preserving-pan, with sugar in the above proportion; mince the lemon-rind very finely, add it to the other ingredients, and place the preserving-pan by the side of the fire; keep stirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning, and when the sugar is well dissolved, put the pan more over the fire, and let the jam boil until it is done, taking care to keep it well skimmed and stirred with a wooden or silver spoon. Pour it into pots, and cover down with oiled and egged papers.
Method.—Thoroughly dry the rhubarb, remove the string or peel, and weigh it; place it in a preserving pan with sugar in the specified amount; finely chop the lemon rind, add it to the other ingredients, and set the preserving pan next to the fire; keep stirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning, and once the sugar has completely dissolved, move the pan closer to the fire and let the jam boil until it's finished, making sure to skim off any foam and stir it with a wooden or silver spoon. Pour it into jars and cover with oiled and egg-washed paper.
Time.—If the rhubarb is young and tender, 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time it simmers equally; old rhubarb, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—If the rhubarb is young and tender, cook for 45 minutes, starting when it simmers evenly; for old rhubarb, cook for 1 to 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, 5d. to 7d. per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a lb. pot.
Sufficient.—About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a 1 lb. pot.
Seasonable from February to April.
In season from February to April.
RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, to resemble Scotch Marmalade.
RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, designed to mimic Scotch Marmalade.
1591. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, 6 oranges, 1-1/2 lb. of loaf sugar.
1591. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of finely chopped rhubarb, 6 oranges, 1.5 lbs. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Peel the oranges; remove as much of the white pith as possible, divide them, and take out the pips; slice the pulp into a preserving-pan, add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, and the loaf sugar, which should be broken small. Peel the rhubarb, cut it into thin pieces, put it to the oranges, and stir altogether over a gentle fire until the jam is done. Remove all the scum as it rises, put the preserve into pots, and, when cold, cover down. Should the rhubarb be very old, stew it alone for 1/4 hour before the other ingredients are added.
Method.—Peel the oranges; remove as much of the white pith as you can, divide them, and take out the seeds; slice the pulp into a preserving pan, add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, and the loaf sugar, broken into small pieces. Peel the rhubarb, cut it into thin pieces, add it to the oranges, and stir everything together over a gentle heat until the jam is finished. Remove all the scum as it forms, transfer the preserve into jars, and cover once it cools. If the rhubarb is very old, cook it alone for 15 minutes before adding the other ingredients.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour. Average cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Time.—45 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, from 2.5p to 3.3p per lb. pot.
Seasonable from February to April.
Seasonal from February to April.
RASPBERRY AND CURRANT, or any Fresh Fruit Salad.
RASPBERRY AND CURRANT, or any Fresh Fruit Salad.
(A Dessert Dish.)
(A Dessert.)
1592. Mode.—Fruit salads are made by stripping the fruit from the stalks, piling it on a dish, and sprinkling over it finely-pounded sugar. They may be made of strawberries, raspberries, currants, or any of these fruits mixed; peaches also make a very good salad. After the sugar is sprinkled over, about 6 large tablespoonfuls of wine or brandy, or 3 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, should be poured in the middle of the fruit; and, when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon may be added. In helping the fruit, it should be lightly stirred, that the wine and sugar may be equally distributed.
1592. Mode.—Fruit salads are made by removing the fruit from the stalks, arranging it on a dish, and sprinkling finely ground sugar on top. You can use strawberries, raspberries, currants, or a mix of these fruits; peaches also make a delicious salad. After sprinkling the sugar, pour about 6 large tablespoons of wine or brandy, or 3 tablespoons of liqueur, into the center of the fruit; if desired, a little ground cinnamon can be added for flavor. When serving the fruit, it should be lightly stirred so the wine and sugar are evenly mixed.
Sufficient.—1-1/2 pint of fruit, with 3 oz. of pounded sugar, for 4 or 5 persons.
Sufficient.—1-1/2 pints of fruit, with 3 oz. of powdered sugar, for 4 or 5 people.
Seasonable in summer.
Seasonal in summer.
STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM.
1593. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of picked strawberries allow 1/3 pint of cream, 2 oz. of finely-pounded sugar.
1593. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of picked strawberries, use 1/3 pint of cream and 2 oz. of finely ground sugar.
Mode.—Pick the stalks from the fruit, place it on a glass dish, sprinkle over it pounded sugar, and slightly stir the strawberries, that they may all be equally sweetened; pour the cream over the top, and serve. Devonshire cream, when it can be obtained, is exceedingly delicious for this dish; and, if very thick indeed, may be diluted with a little thin cream or milk.
Mode.—Remove the stems from the fruit, place it on a glass dish, sprinkle it with powdered sugar, and gently stir the strawberries so they are all evenly sweetened; pour the cream over the top and serve. Devonshire cream, when available, is incredibly delicious for this dish; and if it’s very thick, you can thin it out with a little regular cream or milk.
Average cost for this quantity, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s.
Average cost for this quantity, with cream at 5p. per pint, 5p.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
Good for 2 people.
Seasonable in June and July.
Seasonable in June and July.
STRAWBERRY JAM.
1594. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 1/2 pint of red-currant juice, 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1594. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, use 1/2 pint of red currant juice and 1 1/4 pounds of loaf sugar.
Mode.—Strip the currants from the stalks, put them into a jar; place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the juice is well drawn from the fruit; strain the currants, measure the juice, put it into a preserving-pan, and add the sugar. Select well-ripened but sound strawberries; pick them from the stalks, and when the sugar is dissolved in the currant juice, put in the fruit. Simmer the whole over a moderate fire, from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Stir the jam only enough to prevent it from burning at the bottom of the pan, as the fruit should be preserved as whole as possible. Put the jam into jars, and when cold, cover down.
Mode.—Remove the currants from the stems and place them in a jar; put this jar in a saucepan of boiling water and simmer until the juice is fully extracted from the fruit. Strain the currants, measure the juice, pour it into a preserving pan, and add the sugar. Choose well-ripened but sound strawberries; remove them from the stems, and once the sugar has dissolved in the currant juice, add the fruit. Simmer everything over medium heat for about 30 to 45 minutes, carefully skimming off any foam that forms. Stir the jam just enough to keep it from burning on the bottom of the pan, as you want to keep the fruit as whole as possible. Pour the jam into jars, and once it’s cool, seal them.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour, reckoning from the time the jam simmers all over.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes, counting from when the jam starts to simmer all over.
Average cost, from 7d. to 8d. per lb. pot.
Average cost, from 7p to 8p per lb. pot.
Sufficient.—12 pints of strawberries will make 12 lb. pots of jam.
Sufficient.—12 pints of strawberries will make 12-pound jars of jam.
Seasonable in June and July.
Seasonable in June and July.
PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.
1595. INGREDIENTS.—To every quart bottle allow 1/4 lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar; sherry or Madeira.
1595. INGREDIENTS.—For each quart bottle, use 1/4 lb. of finely ground loaf sugar; sherry or Madeira.
Mode.—Let the fruit be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon as picked. Have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some nice soft corks or bungs. Pick the stalks from the strawberries, drop them into the bottles, sprinkling amongst them pounded sugar in the above proportion, and when the fruit reaches to the neck of the bottle, fill up with sherry or Madeira. Cork the bottles down with new corks, and dip them into melted resin.
Mode.—Gather the fruit on a nice day and use it as soon as it's picked. Have some perfectly dry glass bottles and some nice soft corks or bungs ready. Remove the stems from the strawberries, place them in the bottles, and sprinkle some powdered sugar on top as mentioned above. When the fruit reaches the neck of the bottle, fill it up with sherry or Madeira. Seal the bottles with new corks and dip them in melted resin.
Seasonable.—Make this in June or July.
In season.—Make this in June or July.
TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE.
1596. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of fruit allow 1-1/2 lb. of good loaf sugar, 1 pint of red-currant juice.
1596. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of fruit, use 1.5 pounds of good loaf sugar and 1 pint of red-currant juice.
Mode.—Choose the strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large sort and of a good colour. Pick off the stalks, lay the strawberries in a dish, and sprinkle over them half the quantity of sugar, which must be finely pounded. Shake the dish gently, that the sugar may be equally distributed and touch the under-side of the fruit, and let it remain for 1 day. Then have ready the currant-juice, drawn as for red-currant jelly No. 1533; boil it with the remainder of the sugar until it forms a thin syrup, and in this simmer the strawberries and sugar, until the whole is sufficiently jellied. Great care must be taken not to stir the fruit roughly, as it should be preserved as whole as possible. Strawberries prepared in this manner are very good served in glasses and mixed with thin cream.
Mode.—Choose strawberries that are not overly ripe, from a large variety and a good color. Remove the stems, place the strawberries in a dish, and sprinkle half the amount of finely ground sugar over them. Gently shake the dish so that the sugar is evenly distributed and touches the underside of the fruit, and let it sit for 1 day. Then prepare the currant juice, drawn as for red-currant jelly No. 1533; boil it with the remaining sugar until it turns into a thin syrup, and in this, simmer the strawberries and sugar until everything is jellied enough. Be very careful not to stir the fruit roughly, as it should remain as whole as possible. Strawberries prepared this way are great served in glasses and mixed with light cream.
Time.—1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup.
Time.—15 minutes to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup.
Seasonable in June and July.
Seasonal in June and July.
TO MAKE EVERTON TOFFEE.
1597. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of powdered loaf sugar, 1 teacupful of water, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 drops of essence of lemon.
1597. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of powdered sugar, 1 teacup of water, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 drops of lemon extract.
Mode.—Put the water and sugar into a brass pan, and beat the butter to a cream. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little is poured on to a buttered dish; and just before the toffee is done, add the essence of lemon. Butter a dish or tin, pour on it the mixture, and when cool, it will easily separate from the dish. Butter-Scotch, an excellent thing for coughs, is made with brown, instead of white sugar, omitting the water, and flavoured with 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger. It is made in the same manner as toffee.
Mode.—Put the water and sugar into a brass pan, and cream the butter. Once the sugar is fully dissolved, add the butter and keep stirring over the heat until it sets. To check if it's ready, pour a little onto a buttered dish. Just before the toffee is done, mix in the lemon essence. Butter a dish or tin, pour the mixture onto it, and once it cools, it will separate easily from the dish. Butter-Scotch, which is great for coughs, is made with brown sugar instead of white, skipping the water, and flavored with 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger. It’s made the same way as toffee.
Time.—18 to 35 minutes.
Duration.—18 to 35 minutes.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient to make a lb. of toffee.
Enough to make a lb. of toffee.
DESSERT DISHES.
[Illustration: DISH OF NUTS.]
[Illustration: BOWL OF NUTS.]
[Illustration: BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.]
[Illustration: BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.]
[Illustration: DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.]
[Illustration: BOWL OF MIXED FRUIT.]
1598. The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in our illustrations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruit can be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishes than on the short flat ones. All the dishes are now usually placed down the centre of the table, dried and fresh fruit alternately, the former being arranged on small round or oval glass plates, and the latter on the dishes with stems. The fruit should always be gathered on the same day that it is required for table, and should be tastefully arranged on the dishes, with leaves between and round it. By purchasing fruits that are in season, a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost. These, with a few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, &c., are sufficient for an ordinary dessert. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, dried and foreign fruits, compotes, baked pears, stewed Normandy pippins, &c. &c., must supply its place, with the addition of preserves, bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, &c. At fashionable tables, forced fruit is served growing in pots, these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones, and arranged with the other dishes.—(See coloured plate W1.) A few vases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, add very much to the appearance of the dessert; and, when these are not obtainable, a few paper ones, mixed with green leaves, answer very well as a substitute. In decorating a table, whether for luncheon, dessert, or supper, a vase or two of flowers should never be forgotten, as they add so much to the elegance of the tout ensemble. In summer and autumn, ladies residing in the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowers on their tables, and should never be without this inexpensive luxury. On the continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariably placed down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances. Ices for dessert are usually moulded: when this is not the case, they are handed round in glasses with wafers to accompany them. Preserved ginger is frequently handed round after ices, to prepare the palate for the delicious dessert wines. A basin or glass of finely-pounded lump sugar must never be omitted at a dessert, as also a glass jug of fresh cold water (iced, if possible), and two goblets by its side. Grape-scissors, a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, should always be put on table, if there are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests are sometimes served at the close of the dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. The French often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or dried fruit. At some tables, finger-glasses are placed at the right of each person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winter with tepid water. These precede the dessert. At other tables, a glass or vase is simply handed round, filled with perfumed water, into which each guest dips the corner of his napkin, and, when needful, refreshes his lips and the tips of his fingers.
1598. The tazza, or stemmed dish shown in our illustrations, is now the preferred shape for dessert dishes. Fruit can be arranged and displayed more attractively on these tall dishes than on short flat ones. All the dishes are now typically placed in the center of the table, with dried and fresh fruit alternating—dried fruit arranged on small round or oval glass plates, and fresh fruit on the stemmed dishes. The fruit should always be picked on the same day it's needed for the table and should be artfully arranged on the dishes, with leaves interspersed and around it. By buying fruits that are in season, you can provide a dessert at a very reasonable cost. These, along with some fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, etc., are enough for a regular dessert. When fresh fruit isn't available, dried and foreign fruits, compotes, baked pears, stewed Normandy pippins, etc., should take its place, along with preserves, bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, etc. At fashionable tables, forced fruit is served growing in pots, which are concealed in more decorative ones and arranged with the other dishes. (See colored plate W1.) A few vases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, really enhance the appearance of the dessert; and when these aren't available, a few paper flowers mixed with green leaves work well as a substitute. When decorating a table for lunch, dessert, or supper, you should never forget a vase or two of flowers, as they add so much to the overall elegance. In summer and autumn, ladies living in the countryside can always manage to have a few freshly picked flowers on their tables and should never miss out on this affordable luxury. On the continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are regularly placed down the center of the dinner table at equal distances. Ices for dessert are usually molded; if not, they are served in glasses with wafers on the side. Preserved ginger is often served after ices to prepare the palate for the sweet dessert wines. A bowl or glass of finely crushed lump sugar should never be left out at a dessert, along with a glass pitcher of fresh cold water (iced, if possible), and two goblets beside it. Grape scissors, a melon knife and fork, and nutcrackers should always be on the table if there are dishes of fruit that need them. Zests are sometimes served at the end of the dessert, like anchovy toasts or biscuits. The French often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or dried fruit. At some tables, finger bowls are placed to the right of each person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winter with lukewarm water, ahead of the dessert. At other tables, a glass or vase filled with perfumed water is simply passed around, so each guest can dip the corner of their napkin into it, refreshing their lips and fingertips as needed.
[Illustration: BOX OF CHOCOLATE.]
[Illustration: box of chocolates.]
[Illustration: DISH OF APPLES.]
[Illustration: BOWL OF APPLES.]
[Illustration: ALMONDS AND RAISINS.]
[Illustration: ALMONDS AND RAISINS.]
[Illustration: DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.]
[Illustration: BOWL OF STRAWBERRIES.]
After the dishes are placed, and every one is provided with plates, glasses, spoons, &c., the wine should be put at each end of the table, cooled or otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, the wine may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host.
After the dishes are set and everyone has their plates, glasses, spoons, etc., the wine should be placed at each end of the table, chilled or not, depending on the season. If the gathering is small, the wine can just be put at the top of the table, close to the host.
DISH OF NUTS.
1599. These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, as shown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the edge. Filberts should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnuts should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and then—with a dry one, to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells frequently have.
1599. These are just stacked high in the center of the dish, as shown in the engraving, with or without leaves around the edge. Filberts should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnuts should be wiped clean with a damp cloth, and then with a dry one to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling that the shells often have.
Seasonable.—Filberts from September to March, good; may be had after that time, but are generally shrivelled and dry. Walnuts from September to January.
Seasonable.—Filberts are good from September to March; they can be found after that time, but they are usually shriveled and dry. Walnuts are available from September to January.
HAZEL NUT AND FILBERT.—The common Hazel is the wild, and the Filbert the cultivated state of the same tree. The hazel is found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in dingles and ravines, but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and mountainous parts of the country. It was formerly one of the most abundant of those trees which are indigenous in this island. It is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree, though perhaps its nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish nuts imported are a superior kind, but they are somewhat oily and rather indigestible. Filberts, both the red and the white, and the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common hazel, which have been produced, partly by the superiority of soil and climate, and partly by culture. They were originally brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found their way to Holland, and from that country to England. It is supposed that, within a few miles of Maidstone, in Kent, there are more filberts grown than in all England besides; and it is from that place that the London market is supplied. The filbert is longer than the common nut, though of the same thickness, and has a larger kernel. The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is roundish. Filberts are more esteemed at the dessert than common nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from oil, and disagree with few persons.
HAZEL NUT AND FILBERT.—The common hazel is the wild version, while the filbert is the cultivated one. Hazels grow wild not just in forests and hedges, but also in dells and ravines, and can be found in large areas of the northern and mountainous regions of the country. It used to be one of the most common native trees in this island. It's rarely grown as a fruit tree, although its nuts might actually taste better than others. The imported Spanish nuts are a higher-quality type, but they tend to be a bit oily and can be hard to digest. Filberts, both red and white, along with the cob-nut, are thought to be just varieties of the common hazel, developed partly due to better soil and climate, and partly through cultivation. They were originally brought from Greece to Italy, then made their way to Holland, and from there to England. It's believed that within a few miles of Maidstone in Kent, more filberts are grown than in the rest of England combined; that's where the London market gets its supply. The filbert is longer than the common nut but has the same thickness and a larger kernel. The cob-nut is an even larger variety and is rounder. Filberts are preferred for dessert over common nuts and are usually eaten salted. They contain very little oil and rarely cause any digestive issues.
WALNUTS.—The Walnut is a native of Persia, the Caucasus, and China, but was introduced to this kingdom from France. The ripe kernel is brought to the dessert on account of its agreeable flavour; and the fruit is also much used in the green state, but before the stone hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts are employed in tarts and other dishes. The Walnut abounds in oil which is expressed and which, being of a highly drying nature, and very limpid, is much employed for delicate painting. This, on the continent, is sometimes used as a substitute for olive-oil in cooking, but is very apt to turn rancid. It is also manufactured into a kind of soap. The mare, or refuse matter after the oil is extracted, proves very nutritious for poultry or other domestic animals. In Switzerland, this is eaten by poor people under the name of pain amer.
WALNUTS.—The walnut is originally from Persia, the Caucasus, and China, but was brought to this country from France. The ripe kernel is served as a dessert because of its pleasant flavor; the fruit is also commonly used while still green, before the shell hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts are used in tarts and other dishes. Walnuts are rich in oil, which is pressed out and is highly drying and very clear, making it popular for fine painting. In Europe, this oil is sometimes used instead of olive oil in cooking, but it tends to go rancid quickly. It is also made into a type of soap. The leftover material after the oil is extracted is very nutritious for poultry and other farm animals. In Switzerland, this byproduct is eaten by poor people and is called pain amer.
BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.
1600. If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it may be placed on the table; if small, on a glass dish; if large, without one, French plums may also be arranged on a glass plate, and garnished with bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect. All fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the table or not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course, be left to individual taste.
1600. If the box that holds them is really decorative, it can go on the table; if it's small, use a glass dish; if it's large, just set it out without one. French plums can also be arranged on a glass plate and decorated with colorful sweets, which look great. Any decorative boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit can be placed on the table or not, depending on preference. These little details should, of course, be left to personal taste.
Seasonable.—May be purchased all the year; but are in greater perfection in the winter, and are more suitable for that season, as fresh fruit cannot be obtained.
Seasonable.—Available for purchase year-round; however, they are best in winter and are more appropriate for that time, as fresh fruit isn't accessible.
DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.
1601. For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has a remarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. A high raised appearance should be given to the fruit, which is done in the following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish, and, in this tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost; round the tumbler put a thick layer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and such fruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of moss underneath, so much fruit is not required, besides giving a better shape to the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a portion of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a négligé kind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish. In arranging the plums, apples, &c., let the colours contrast well.
1601. For a centerpiece, a mix of different fresh fruits looks really appealing, especially if you include a pineapple. The fruit should be displayed in an impressive way, which you can achieve like this: Place a glass in the middle of the dish, and put the pineapple in the glass with the crown facing up. Surround the glass with a thick layer of moss, and then add apples, pears, plums, peaches, and any other fruits that are in season. By adding a layer of moss underneath, you won’t need as much fruit, and it will make the arrangement look better. Grapes should be placed on top of the fruit, with some of the bunches hanging over the edges of the dish casually, which helps soften the formal appearance. When arranging the plums, apples, etc., make sure the colors contrast nicely.
Seasonable.—Suitable for a dessert in September or October.
Seasonable.—Perfect for a dessert in September or October.
GRAPES.—France produces about a thousand varieties of the grape, which is cultivated more extensively in that country than in any other. Hygienists agree in pronouncing grapes as among the best of fruits. The grape possesses several rare qualities: it is nourishing and fattening, and its prolonged use has often overcome the most obstinate cases of constipation. The skins and pips of grapes should not be eaten.
GRAPES.—France produces around a thousand varieties of grapes, which are grown more extensively in that country than anywhere else. Health experts agree that grapes are one of the best fruits. Grapes have several unique qualities: they are nutritious and can help with weight gain, and their regular consumption has often resolved even the most stubborn cases of constipation. You should avoid eating the skins and seeds of grapes.
BOX OF CHOCOLATE.
1602. This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a glass plate or dish.
1602. This is served in a decorative box, set on a glass plate or dish.
Seasonable.—May be purchased at any time.
Seasonable.—Can be bought at any time.
DISH OF APPLES.
1603. The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and arranged on a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves between each layer. The inferior apples should form the bottom layer, with the bright-coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of the laurel, bay, holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for garnishing dessert dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same manner; they should also be wiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table.
1603. The apples should be wiped clean with a dry cloth and arranged on a dish, stacked high in the center, with evergreen leaves between each layer. The lower-quality apples should be on the bottom, with the bright, large ones on top. The leaves of laurel, bay, holly, or any shrub that stays green in winter are good for decorating dessert dishes. Oranges can be arranged similarly; they should also be wiped with a dry cloth before serving.
DISH OF MIXED SUMMER FRUIT.
1604. This dish consists of cherries, raspberries, currants, and strawberries, piled in different layers, with plenty of leaves between each layer; so that each fruit is well separated. The fruit should be arranged with a due regard to colour, so that they contrast nicely one with the other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the bottom, then one of red raspberries; over that a layer of white currants, and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries.
1604. This dish is made up of cherries, raspberries, currants, and strawberries, stacked in different layers, with lots of leaves between each layer to keep the fruits well separated. The fruit should be arranged with consideration for color, so that they contrast nicely with each other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the bottom, then a layer of red raspberries; above that, a layer of white currants, and at the top, some lovely scarlet strawberries.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
In season in June, July, and August.
ALMONDS AND RAISINS.
1605. These are usually served on glass dishes, the fruit piled high in the centre, and the almonds blanched, and strewn over. To blanch the almonds, put them into a small mug or teacup, pour over them boiling water, let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and the skins may then be easily removed. Figs, dates, French plums, &c., are all served on small glass plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds.
1605. These are usually served on glass plates, with the fruit piled high in the center and the blanched almonds sprinkled on top. To blanch the almonds, put them in a small mug or teacup, pour boiling water over them, let them sit for 2 or 3 minutes, and then the skins can be easily removed. Figs, dates, French plums, etc., are all served on small glass plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds.
Seasonable at any time, but more suitable in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.
Good at any time, but better in winter, when fresh fruit isn't available.
DATES.—Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from Barbary and Egypt, and, when in good condition, they are much esteemed. An inferior kind has lately become common, which are dried hard, and have little or no flavour. They should be chosen large, softish, not much wrinkled, of a reddish-yellow colour on the outside, with a whitish membrane between the fruit and the stone.
DATES.—Dates are imported into Britain in a dried state from Barbary and Egypt, and when they are in good condition, they are highly valued. A lower quality variety has recently become common, which is dried hard and has little to no flavor. You should choose dates that are large, soft, not too wrinkled, with a reddish-yellow color on the outside, and a whitish membrane between the fruit and the pit.
DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.
1606. Fine strawberries, arranged in the manner shown in the engraving, look exceedingly well. The inferior ones should be placed at the bottom of the dish, and the others put in rows pyramidically, with the stalks downwards; so that when the whole is completed, nothing but the red part of the fruit is visible. The fruit should be gathered with rather long stalks, as there is then something to support it, and it can be placed more upright in each layer. A few of the finest should be reserved to crown the top.
1606. Nice strawberries, arranged like in the picture, look really good. The less perfect ones should go at the bottom of the dish, and the others should be stacked in rows, like a pyramid, with the stems facing down. That way, when it's all done, only the red part of the fruit is showing. The fruit should be picked with fairly long stems, so there’s something to hold them up, and they can stand taller in each layer. Save a few of the best ones to place on top.
TO HAVE WALNUTS FRESH THROUGHOUT THE SEASON.
1607. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of water allow 1 teaspoonful of salt.
1607. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of water, use 1 teaspoon of salt.
Mode.—Place the walnuts in the salt and water for 24 hours at least; then take them out, and rub them dry. Old nuts may be freshened in this manner; or walnuts, when first picked, may be put into an earthen pan with salt sprinkled amongst them, and with damped hay placed on the top of them, and then covered down with a lid. They must be well wiped before they are put on table.
Mode.—Soak the walnuts in salt and water for at least 24 hours; then take them out and dry them off. Old nuts can be refreshed this way; or fresh walnuts can be placed in a clay dish with salt sprinkled around them, then covered with damp hay and topped with a lid. They should be wiped clean before serving.
Seasonable.—Should be stored away in September or October.
Seasonable.—Should be put away in September or October.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXXII.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.
MILK.
1608. Milk is obtained only from the class of animals called Mammalia, and is intended by Nature for the nourishment of their young. The milk of each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities; but as that of the cow is by far the most useful to us in this part of the world, our observations will be confined to that variety.
1608. Milk comes only from mammals and is meant by nature to feed their young. Each animal's milk has its own unique characteristics, but since cow's milk is by far the most beneficial to us in this region, we'll focus our observations on that type.
1609. Milk, when drawn from the cow, is of a yellowish-white colour, and is the most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation. Its taste is agreeable, and rather saccharine. The viscidity and specific gravity of milk are somewhat greater than that of water; but these properties vary somewhat in the milk procured from different individuals. On an average, the specific gravity of milk is 1.035, water being 1. The small cows of the Alderney breed afford the richest milk.
1609. Milk, when taken from the cow, is a yellowish-white color and is at its most yellow at the start of the lactation period. Its taste is pleasant and slightly sweet. The thickness and specific gravity of milk are a bit higher than that of water, but these characteristics can vary with milk from different cows. On average, the specific gravity of milk is 1.035, with water being 1. The small cows of the Alderney breed produce the richest milk.
1610. Milk which is carried to a considerable distance, so as to be much agitated, and cooled before it is put into pans to settle for cream, never throws up so much, nor such rich cream, as if the same milk had been put into pans directly after it was milked.
1610. Milk that is transported a long distance, causing it to be agitated and cooled before being placed in pans to settle for cream, never produces as much or as rich cream as if the same milk had been put directly into pans right after it was milked.
1611. Milk, considered as an aliment, is of such importance in domestic economy as to render all the improvements in its production extremely valuable. To enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary; it has always been a favourite food in Britain. "Lacte et carno vivunt," says Caesar, in his Commentaries; the English of which is, "the inhabitants subsist upon flesh and milk." The breed of the cow has received great improvement in modern times, as regards the quantity and quality of the milk which she affords; the form of milch-cows, their mode of nourishment, and progress, are also manifest in the management of the dairy.
1611. Milk is such an important part of home life that any improvements in how it's produced are incredibly valuable. There’s no need to go over its long history; it's always been a popular food in Britain. "Lacte et carno vivunt," says Caesar in his Commentaries, which means "the inhabitants live on flesh and milk." The breed of cows has seen significant improvement in recent times, both in the amount and quality of milk they provide; the appearance of dairy cows, how they’re fed, and their development are also evident in dairy management.
1612. Although milk in its natural state be a fluid, yet, considered as an aliment, it is both solid and fluid: for no sooner does it enter the stomach, than it is coagulated by the gastric juice, and separated into curd and whey, the first of these being extremely nutritive.
1612. While milk is a liquid in its natural form, when viewed as food, it’s both solid and liquid: as soon as it enters the stomach, it curdles due to the gastric juice and separates into curd and whey, with the curd being highly nutritious.
1613. Milk of the human subject is much thinner than cow's milk; Ass's milk comes the nearest to human milk of any other; Goat's milk is something thicker and richer than cow's milk; Ewe's milk has the appearance of cow's milk, and affords a larger quantity of cream; Mare's milk contains more sugar than that of the ewe; Camel's milk is used only in Africa; Buffalo's milk is employed in India.
1613. Human milk is much thinner than cow's milk; donkey's milk is the closest to human milk of all the others; goat's milk is a bit thicker and richer than cow's milk; ewe's milk looks like cow's milk and has a larger amount of cream; mare's milk has more sugar than ewe's milk; camel's milk is used only in Africa; buffalo's milk is used in India.
1614. From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number of distinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk; some forming food, others drink; some of them delicious, and deserving the name of luxuries; all of them wholesome, and some medicinal: indeed, the variety of aliments that seems capable of being produced from milk, appears to be quite endless. In every age this must have been a subject for experiment, and every nation has added to the number by the invention of some peculiarity of its own.
1614. No other substance, whether solid or liquid, can produce as many different types of food as milk can; some become meals, others are drinks; some are tasty and considered luxury items; all are nutritious, and some even have medicinal properties. The range of foods that can be made from milk seems truly endless. People have likely experimented with this across all ages, and every culture has contributed to the variety with its unique creations.
BUTTER.
1615. BECKMAN, in his "History of Inventions," states that butter was not used either by the Greeks or Romans in cooking, nor was it brought upon their tables at certain meals, as is the custom at present. In England it has been made from time immemorial, though the art of making cheese is said not to have been known to the ancient Britons, and to have been learned from their conquerors.
1615. BECKMAN, in his "History of Inventions," says that butter wasn't used by the Greeks or Romans in cooking, nor was it served at certain meals like it is today. In England, it has been made for a very long time, although it is said that the ancient Britons didn't know how to make cheese and learned the skill from their conquerors.
1616. The taste of butter is peculiar, and very unlike any other fatty substance. It is extremely agreeable when of the best quality; but its flavour depends much upon the food given to the cows: to be good, it should not adhere to the knife.
1616. Butter has a unique taste that’s unlike any other fatty substance. It's really enjoyable when it's high quality; however, its flavor is heavily influenced by what the cows eat: to be good, it shouldn't stick to the knife.
1617. Butter, with regard to its dietetic properties, may be regarded nearly in the light of vegetable oils and animal fats; but it becomes sooner rancid than most other fat oils. When fresh, it cannot but be considered as very wholesome; but it should be quite free from rancidity. If slightly salted when it is fresh, its wholesomeness is probably not at all impaired; but should it begin to turn rancid, salting will not correct its unwholesomeness. When salt butter is put into casks, the upper part next the air is very apt to become rancid, and this rancidity is also liable to affect the whole cask.
1617. Butter, in terms of its nutritional properties, can be seen similarly to vegetable oils and animal fats; however, it goes rancid quicker than most other fatty oils. When it's fresh, it’s definitely considered very healthy, but it needs to be free from rancidity. If it's slightly salted when fresh, its health benefits are likely not affected at all; but if it starts to go rancid, salting won’t fix its unhealthiness. When salted butter is stored in barrels, the top layer that’s exposed to air is very likely to go rancid, and this rancidity can also spread to the entire barrel.
1618. Epping butter is the kind most esteemed in London. Fresh butter comes to London from Buckinghamshire, Suffolk, Oxfordshire, Yorkshire, Devonshire, &c. Cambridge butter is esteemed next to fresh; Devonshire butter is nearly similar in quality to the latter; Irish butter sold in London is all salted, but is generally good. The number of firkins exported annually from Ireland amounts to 420,000, equal to a million of money. Dutch butter is in good repute all over Europe, America, and even India; and no country in the world is so successful in the manufacture of this article, Holland supplying more butter to the rest of the world than any country whatever.
1618. Epping butter is the most popular kind in London. Fresh butter is brought to London from Buckinghamshire, Suffolk, Oxfordshire, Yorkshire, Devonshire, etc. Cambridge butter is valued just after fresh; Devonshire butter is almost the same in quality as the latter; Irish butter sold in London is all salted, but it’s generally considered good. The number of firkins exported annually from Ireland is around 420,000, which is worth about a million pounds. Dutch butter is well-regarded all over Europe, America, and even India; and no country in the world is as effective at producing it, as Holland supplies more butter to the rest of the world than any other country.
1619. There are two methods pursued in the manufacture of butter. In one, the cream is separated from the milk, and in that state it is converted into butter by churning, as is the practice about Epping; in the other, milk is subjected to the same process, which is the method usually followed in Cheshire. The first method is generally said to give the richest butter, and the latter the largest quantity, though some are of opinion that there is little difference either in quality or quantity.
1619. There are two methods used in making butter. In one, the cream is separated from the milk, and then it's churned to make butter, which is what's done around Epping; in the other, the milk goes through the same process, which is the usual method in Cheshire. The first method is generally said to produce the richest butter, while the second yields the largest amount, although some people believe there’s little difference in either quality or quantity.
CHEESE.
1620. CHEESE is the curd formed from milk by artificial coagulation, pressed and dried for use. Curd, called also casein and caseous matter, or the basis of cheese, exists in the milk, and not in the cream, and requires only to be separated by coagulation. The coagulation, however, supposes some alteration of the curd. By means of the substance employed to coagulate it, it is rendered insoluble in water. When the curd is freed from the whey, kneaded and pressed to expel it entirely, it becomes cheese. This assumes a degree of transparency, and possesses many of the properties of coagulated albumen. If it be well dried, it does not change by exposure to the air; but if it contain moisture, it soon putrefies. It therefore requires some salt to preserve it, and this acts likewise as a kind of seasoning. All our cheese is coloured more or less, except that made from skim milk. The colouring substances employed are arnatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are adulterated; and it is said that arnatto sometimes contains red lead.
1620. CHEESE is the curd created from milk through artificial coagulation, pressed and dried for use. Curd, also known as casein or caseous matter, which is the base of cheese, exists in the milk, not in the cream, and just needs to be separated through coagulation. However, coagulation requires some change in the curd. The substance used to coagulate renders it insoluble in water. Once the curd is separated from the whey, kneaded, and pressed to remove it completely, it becomes cheese. This cheese takes on a certain transparency and shares many properties with coagulated albumen. If it’s well dried, it won’t change when exposed to air; but if it has moisture, it will quickly rot. Therefore, it needs some salt for preservation, which also serves as a type of seasoning. Most of our cheese is colored to some extent, except for that made from skim milk. The coloring agents used are annatto, turmeric, or marigold, all completely safe unless they’ve been tampered with; and it’s said that annatto can sometimes contain red lead.
1621. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the materials of which it is composed. It is made—1. Of entire milk, as in Cheshire; 2. of milk and cream, as at Stilton; 3. of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, as in Gloucestershire; 4. of skimmed milk only, as in Suffolk, Holland, and Italy.
1621. Cheese varies in quality and richness based on the ingredients used to make it. It is made—1. from whole milk, like in Cheshire; 2. from milk and cream, like at Stilton; 3. from fresh milk mixed with skimmed milk, like in Gloucestershire; 4. from skimmed milk only, like in Suffolk, Holland, and Italy.
1622. The principal varieties of cheese used in England are the following:—Cheshire cheese, famed all over Europe for its rich quality and fine piquant flavour. It is made of entire new milk, the cream not being taken off. Gloucester cheese is much milder in its taste than the Cheshire. There are two kinds of Gloucester cheese,—single and double. Single Gloucester is made of skimmed milk, or of the milk deprived of half the cream; Double Gloucester is a cheese that pleases almost every palate: it is made of the whole milk and cream. Stilton cheese is made by adding the cream of one day to the entire milk of the next: it was first made at Stilton, in Leicestershire. Sage cheese is so called from the practice of colouring some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves, and parsley, and mixing this with some uncoloured curd. With the Romans, and during the middle ages, this practice was extensively adopted. Cheddar cheese much resembles Parmesan. It has a very agreeable taste and flavour, and has a spongy appearance. Brickbat cheese has nothing remarkable except its form. It is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and new milk. The curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick, and is then pressed and dried in the usual way. Dunlop cheese has a peculiarly mild and rich taste: the best is made entirely from new milk. New cheese (as it is called in London) is made chiefly in Lincolnshire, and is either made of all cream, or, like Stilton. by adding the cream of one day's milking to the milk that comes immediately from the cow: they are extremely thin, and are compressed gently two or three times, turned for a few days, and then eaten new with radishes, salad, &c. Skimmed Milk cheese is made for sea voyages principally. Parmesan cheese is made in Parma and Piacenza. It is the most celebrated of all cheese: it is made entirely of skimmed cow's milk. The high flavour which it has, is supposed to be owing to the rich herbage of the meadows of the Po, where the cows are pastured. The best Parmesan is kept for three or four years, and none is carried to market till it is at least six months old. Dutch cheese derives its peculiar pungent taste from the practice adopted in Holland of coagulating the milk with muriatic acid instead of rennet. Swiss cheeses in their several varieties are all remarkable for their fine flavour. That from Gruyère, a bailiwick in the canton of Fribourg, is best known in England. It is flavoured by the dried herb of Melilotos officinalis in powder. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. Cream cheese, although so called, is not properly cheese, but is nothing more than cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife.
1622. The main types of cheese used in England are as follows:—Cheshire cheese, famous across Europe for its rich quality and sharp flavor. It’s made from whole new milk, without removing the cream. Gloucester cheese has a much milder taste compared to Cheshire. There are two types of Gloucester cheese—single and double. Single Gloucester is made from skimmed milk or milk with half the cream removed; Double Gloucester is a cheese that appeals to almost everyone: it’s made from whole milk and cream. Stilton cheese is made by adding cream from one day’s milking to the whole milk of the next day; it was first produced in Stilton, Leicestershire. Sage cheese gets its name from the practice of coloring some curd with crushed sage, marigold leaves, and parsley, and mixing this with uncolored curd. This practice was widely adopted during Roman times and the Middle Ages. Cheddar cheese closely resembles Parmesan. It has a very pleasant taste and texture, with a spongy appearance. Brickbat cheese is mostly noted for its shape. It’s made by using rennet to curdle a mixture of cream and new milk. The curd is placed into a wooden mold shaped like a brick, then pressed and dried in the usual manner. Dunlop cheese has a uniquely mild and rich taste; the best version is made entirely from new milk. New cheese (as it’s known in London) is mainly produced in Lincolnshire and is made from either pure cream or, like Stilton, by adding the cream from one day’s milking to fresh cow’s milk: these cheeses are very soft, compacted gently two or three times, turned for a few days, and are then enjoyed fresh with radishes, salad, etc. Skimmed Milk cheese is mainly made for sea voyages. Parmesan cheese comes from Parma and Piacenza. It’s the most celebrated of all cheeses: it’s made entirely from skimmed cow’s milk. The strong flavor is believed to come from the rich grasses of the Po meadows where the cows graze. The finest Parmesan is aged for three or four years, and none is sold until it’s at least six months old. Dutch cheese gets its distinct sharp taste from the method used in Holland, which involves coagulating the milk with muriatic acid instead of rennet. Swiss cheeses, in their various forms, are all known for their excellent flavor. The one from Gruyère, a region in the canton of Fribourg, is the best known in England. It’s flavored with powdered dried herb Melilotos officinalis. Cheese made from milk and potatoes is created in Thuringia and Saxony. Cream cheese, despite its name, isn’t really cheese; it’s simply cream that has been dried enough to be cut with a knife.
EGGS.
1623. There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, although the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary somewhat. Those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food, particularly when "new-laid." The quality of eggs depends much upon the food given to the hen. Eggs in general are considered most easily digestible when little subjected to the art of cookery. The lightest way of dressing them is by poaching, which is effected by putting them for a minute or two into brisk boiling water: this coagulates the external white, without doing the inner part too much. Eggs are much better when new-laid than a day or two afterwards. The usual time allotted for boiling eggs in the shell is 3 to 3-3/4 minutes: less time than that in boiling water will not be sufficient to solidify the white, and more will make the yolk hard and less digestible: it is very difficult to guess accurately as to the time. Great care should be employed in putting them into the water, to prevent cracking the shell, which inevitably causes a portion of the white to exude, and lets water into the egg. Eggs are often beaten up raw in nutritive beverages.
1623. There's a general consensus about the nutritional value of eggs, although the qualities can vary a bit depending on the type of bird they come from. Eggs from the common hen are considered the best for delicate meals, especially when they're "new-laid." The quality of eggs largely depends on the hen's diet. Generally, eggs are seen as most digestible when they're not heavily cooked. The simplest way to prepare them is by poaching, which involves putting them into brisk boiling water for a minute or two. This method firms up the outer white without cooking the inside too much. Freshly laid eggs are significantly better than those a day or two old. The typical boiling time for eggs in their shells is 3 to 3.75 minutes: cooking them for less time won’t fully solidify the white, and cooking them longer will make the yolk hard and less digestible. Timing can be tricky. Care should be taken when placing them in water to avoid cracking the shell, as this can cause some of the white to leak out and let water in. Eggs are often beaten raw for nutritious drinks.
1624. Eggs are employed in a very great many articles of cookery, entrées, and entremets, and they form an essential ingredient in pastry, creams, flip, &c. It is particularly necessary that they should be quite fresh, as nothing is worse than stale eggs. Cobbett justly says, stale, or even preserved eggs, are things to be run from, not after.
1624. Eggs are used in a wide variety of dishes, including appetizers and desserts, and they are a key ingredient in pastries, creams, flips, etc. It is especially important that they are completely fresh, as nothing is worse than stale eggs. Cobbett rightly states that stale, or even preserved, eggs are things to avoid, not seek out.
1625. The Metropolis is supplied with eggs from all parts of the kingdom, and they are likewise largely imported from various places on the continent; as France, Holland, Belgium, Guernsey, and Jersey. It appears from official statements mentioned in McCulloch's "Commercial Dictionary," that the number imported from France alone amounts to about 60,000,000 a year; and supposing them on an average to cost fourpence a dozen, it follows that we pay our continental neighbours above £83,000 a year for eggs.
1625. The city gets eggs from all over the kingdom, and they are also heavily imported from various places on the continent, like France, Holland, Belgium, Guernsey, and Jersey. According to official reports mentioned in McCulloch's "Commercial Dictionary," the number imported from France alone is about 60,000,000 a year; and assuming they cost an average of fourpence a dozen, it means we pay our continental neighbors over £83,000 a year for eggs.
1626. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and colour. Those of the ostrich are the largest: one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed 2 lbs. 14 oz., held a pint, and was six inches deep: this is about the usual size of those brought from Africa. Travellers describe ostrich eggs as of an agreeable taste: they keep longer than hen's eggs. Drinking-cups are often made of the shell, which is very strong. The eggs of the turkey are almost as mild as those of the hen; the egg of the goose is large, but well-tasted. Duck's eggs have a rich flavour; the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish, when set or coagulated by boiling, which requires less time than hen's eggs. Guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen. Eggs of wild fowl are generally coloured, often spotted; and the taste generally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird they belong to. Those of land birds that are eaten, as the plover, lapwing, ruff, &c., are in general much esteemed; but those of sea-fowl have, more or less, a strong fishy taste. The eggs of the turtle are very numerous: they consist of yolk only, without shell, and are delicious.
1626. The eggs of different birds vary greatly in size and color. The ostrich eggs are the largest: one laid in the Paris zoo weighed 2 lbs. 14 oz., held a pint, and was six inches deep; this is about the usual size of those brought from Africa. Travelers describe ostrich eggs as having a pleasant taste: they last longer than chicken eggs. Drinking cups are often made from the shell, which is very strong. The eggs of the turkey are almost as mild as those of the chicken; the egg of the goose is large but tasty. Duck's eggs are rich in flavor; the egg white is slightly transparent or bluish when cooked, which takes less time than chicken eggs. Guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate than chicken eggs. Eggs from wild fowl are usually colored, often spotted; and the taste often reflects the flavor of the bird they come from. Eggs from land birds that are eaten, like plover, lapwing, ruff, etc., are generally highly valued; however, those from sea-fowl tend to have a strong fishy taste to varying degrees. The eggs of the turtle are very numerous: they consist of yolk only, without a shell, and are delicious.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
SEPARATION OF MILK AND CREAM.
1627. If it be desired that the milk should be freed entirely from cream, it should be poured into a very shallow broad pan or dish, not more than 1-1/2 inch deep, as cream cannot rise through a great depth of milk. In cold and wet weather, milk is not so rich as it is in summer and warm weather, and the morning's milk is always richer than the evening's. The last-drawn milk of each milking, at all times and seasons, is richer than the first-drawn, and on that account should be set apart for cream. Milk should be shaken as little as possible when carried from the cow to the dairy, and should be poured into the pans very gently. Persons not keeping cows, may always have a little cream, provided the milk they purchase be pure and unadulterated. As soon as it comes in, it should be poured into very shallow open pie-dishes, and set by in a very cool place, and in 7 or 8 hours a nice cream should have risen to the surface.
1627. If you want to completely remove the cream from the milk, pour it into a very shallow broad pan or dish, no more than 1.5 inches deep, since cream can’t rise through a lot of milk. In cold and wet weather, milk isn’t as rich as it is in summer and warm weather, and morning milk is always richer than evening milk. The last milk drawn during each milking, at all times and seasons, is richer than the first, so it should be set aside for cream. Milk should be shaken as little as possible when being transported from the cow to the dairy, and it should be poured into the pans very gently. People who don’t keep cows can still have a little cream, as long as the milk they buy is pure and untainted. As soon as it arrives, pour it into very shallow open pie dishes and keep it in a cool place, and in 7 or 8 hours, a nice cream should have risen to the surface.
MILK is one of the most complete of all articles of food: that is to say, it contains a very large number of the elements which enter into the composition of the human body. It "disagrees" with fat, heavy, languid people, of slow circulation; and, at first, with many people of sedentary habits, and stomachs weakened by stimulants of different kinds. But, if exercise can be taken and a little patience shown, while the system accommodates itself to a new regimen, this bland and soothing article of diet is excellent for the majority of thin, nervous people; especially for those who have suffered much from emotional disturbances, or have relaxed their stomachs by too much tea or coffee, taken too hot. Milk is, in fact, a nutrient and a sedative at once. Stomachs, however, have their idiosyncrasies, and it sometimes proves an unwelcome and ill-digested article of food. As milk, when good, contains a good deal of respiratory material (fat),—material which must either be burnt off, or derange the liver, and be rejected in other ways, it may disagree because the lungs are not sufficiently used in the open air. But it is very probable that there are really "constitutions" which cannot take to it; and they should not be forced.
Milk is one of the most complete food sources available; it contains a large number of elements that make up the human body. It tends to upset those who are overweight, sluggish, or have poor circulation, and initially with many people who lead sedentary lifestyles or have weakened stomachs from various stimulants. However, if you can get some exercise and be patient while your body adjusts to a new diet, this gentle and soothing food can be great for most thin, nervous individuals—especially those who have experienced emotional stress or have strained their stomachs by drinking too much hot tea or coffee. Milk acts as both a nutrient and a sedative. That said, stomachs have their quirks, and for some, milk can be difficult to digest. Since milk, when fresh, contains a significant amount of fat—material that needs to be either used up or it can upset the liver and be expelled in other ways—it may not agree with you if you haven't been using your lungs enough in fresh air. It's also quite possible that some people simply cannot tolerate it at all, and they should not be pressured to consume it.
TO KEEP MILK AND CREAM IN HOT WEATHER.
1628. When the weather is very warm, and it is very difficult to prevent milk from turning sour and spoiling the cream, it should be scalded, and it will then remain good for a few hours. It must on no account be allowed to boil, or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon the milk; and the slower the process, the safer will it be. A very good plan to scald milk, is to put the pan that contains it into a saucepan or wide kettle of boiling water. When the surface looks thick, the milk is sufficiently scalded, and it should then be put away in a cool place in the same vessel that it was scalded in. Cream may be kept for 24 hours, if scalded without sugar; and by the addition of the latter ingredient, it will remain good double the time, if kept in a cool place. All pans, jugs, and vessels intended for milk, should be kept beautifully clean, and well scalded before the milk is put in, as any negligence in this respect may cause large quantities of it to be spoiled; and milk should never be kept in vessels of zinc or copper. Milk may be preserved good in hot weather, for a few hours, by placing the jug which contains it in ice, or very cold water; or a pinch of bicarbonate of soda may be introduced into the liquid.
1628. When it's really warm, it can be tough to keep milk from going sour and ruining the cream. To prevent this, it should be scalded, which will keep it fresh for a few hours. It must never be allowed to boil, or a skin will form instead of a cream on the milk; and the slower the heating process, the better. A great way to scald milk is to place the pan holding it into a larger pan or kettle of boiling water. Once the surface looks thick, the milk is properly scalded, and it should be stored in a cool place in the same container used for scalding. Cream can be kept for 24 hours if scalded without sugar; with sugar added, it can last twice as long if kept cool. All pans, jugs, and containers used for milk should be kept spotless and well-scalded before adding milk, as any carelessness can spoil a large amount. Also, milk should never be stored in zinc or copper containers. To keep milk fresh in hot weather for a few hours, place the jug in ice or very cold water, or add a pinch of baking soda to the liquid.
MILK, when of good quality, is of an opaque white colour: the cream always comes to the top; the well-known milky odour is strong; it will boil without altering its appearance, in these respects; the little bladders which arise on the surface will renew themselves if broken by the spoon. To boil milk is, in fact, the simplest way of testing its quality. The commonest adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character. It is a good deal thinned with water, and sometimes thickened with a little starch, or colored with yolk of egg, or even saffron; but these processes have nothing murderous in them.
MILK, when it's of good quality, is a cloudy white color: the cream always rises to the top; the familiar milky smell is strong; it can boil without changing its appearance in these ways; the little bubbles that form on the surface will return if broken by a spoon. Boiling milk is actually the easiest way to check its quality. The most common ways to dilute milk aren’t harmful. It’s often mixed with water, and sometimes thickened with a bit of starch, or colored with egg yolk, or even saffron; but these processes aren't dangerous.
CURDS AND WHEY.
1629. INGREDIENTS.—A very small piece of rennet, 1/2 gallon of milk.
1629. INGREDIENTS.—A tiny piece of rennet, 1/2 gallon of milk.
Mode.—Procure from the butcher's a small piece of rennet, which is the stomach of the calf, taken as soon as it is killed, scoured, and well rubbed with salt, and stretched on sticks to dry. Pour some boiling water on the rennet, and let it remain for 6 hours; then use the liquor to turn the milk. The milk should be warm and fresh from the cow: if allowed to cool, it must be heated till it is of a degree quite equal to new milk; but do not let it be too hot. About a tablespoonful or rather more, would be sufficient to turn the above proportion of milk into curds and whey; and whilst the milk is turning, let it be kept in rather a warm place.
Mode.—Get a small piece of rennet from the butcher, which is the stomach of a calf, taken right after it’s killed, cleaned, and salted, then hung up to dry on sticks. Pour some boiling water over the rennet and let it sit for 6 hours; then use the liquid to curdle the milk. The milk should be warm and fresh from the cow: if it cools down, it must be heated back up to a temperature similar to fresh milk, but don’t let it get too hot. About a tablespoon or a bit more should be enough to turn the given amount of milk into curds and whey; and while the milk is curdling, keep it in a reasonably warm spot.
Time.—From 2 to 3 hours to turn the milk.
Time.—It takes 2 to 3 hours to churn the milk.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
DEVONSHIRE CREAM.
1630. The milk should stand 24 hours in the winter, half that time when the weather is very warm. The milkpan is then set on a stove, and should there remain until the milk is quite hot; but it must not boil, or there will be a thick skin on the surface. When it is sufficiently done, the undulations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. The time required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat of the fire; but the slower it is done, the better. The pan should be placed in the dairy when the cream is sufficiently scalded, and skimmed the following day. This cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the London markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious eaten with fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and is usually very firm.
1630. The milk should sit for 24 hours in the winter, and half that time when the weather is really warm. The milkpan is then placed on a stove and should stay there until the milk is hot, but it mustn't boil, or a thick skin will form on the surface. When it's done properly, the surface has thick undulations, and small rings appear. The time needed to scald the cream depends on the size of the pan and the heat of the fire; however, the slower it’s done, the better. The pan should be taken to the dairy when the cream is properly scalded, and skimmed the next day. This cream is so highly valued that it’s sent to the London markets in small square tins and is extremely delicious when eaten with fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and it’s usually very firm.
DEVONSHIRE JUNKET.
1631. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of new milk allow 2 dessertspoonfuls of brandy, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar, and 1-1/2 dessertspoonful of prepared rennet; thick cream, pounded cinnamon, or grated nutmeg.
1631. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of fresh milk, add 2 dessert spoons of brandy, 1 dessert spoon of sugar, and 1-1/2 dessert spoons of prepared rennet; thick cream, ground cinnamon, or grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Make the milk blood-warm; put it into a deep dish with the brandy, sugar, and rennet; stir it altogether, and cover it over until it is set. Then spread some thick or clotted cream over the top, grate some nutmeg, and strew some sugar over, and the dish will be ready to serve.
Mode.—Warm the milk until it's just slightly hot; pour it into a deep dish along with the brandy, sugar, and rennet; mix everything together, and cover it until it sets. Then spread some thick or clotted cream on top, grate some nutmeg over it, and sprinkle some sugar, and the dish will be ready to serve.
Time.—About 2 hours to set the milk. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—About 2 hours to set the milk. Seasonable at any time.
TO KEEP AND CHOOSE FRESH BUTTER.
1632. Fresh butter should be kept in a dark, cool place, and in as large a mass as possible. Mould as much only as is required, as the more surface is exposed, the more liability there will be to spoil; and the outside very soon becomes rancid. Fresh butter should be kept covered with white paper. For small larders, butter-coolers of red brick are now very much used for keeping fresh butter in warm weather. These coolers are made with a large bell-shaped cover, into the top of which a little cold water should be poured, and in summer time very frequently changed; and the butter must be kept covered. These coolers keep butter remarkably firm in hot weather, and are extremely convenient for those whose larder accommodation is limited.
1632. Fresh butter should be stored in a dark, cool place and kept in as large a block as possible. Only mold as much as you need, because the more surface area that’s exposed, the faster it will spoil; the outer layer quickly becomes rancid. Fresh butter should be wrapped in white paper. For smaller storage spaces, red brick butter coolers are now commonly used to keep fresh butter in warm weather. These coolers have a large bell-shaped lid, which should have some cold water poured into the top and changed frequently during the summer; the butter must be kept covered. These coolers keep butter remarkably firm in hot weather and are extremely convenient for those with limited storage space.
[Illustration: BUTTER-DISH.]
[Illustration: BUTTER DISH.]
In choosing fresh butter, remember it should smell deliciously, and be of an equal colour all through: if it smells sour, it has not been sufficiently washed from the buttermilk; and if veiny and open, it has probably been worked with a staler or an inferior sort.
When selecting fresh butter, keep in mind that it should smell delightful and have a consistent color throughout. If it smells sour, it hasn’t been rinsed thoroughly from the buttermilk. If it looks veiny or has openings, it’s likely been mixed with older or lower-quality butter.
TO PRESERVE AND TO CHOOSE SALT BUTTER.
1633. In large families, where salt butter is purchased a tub at a time, the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out, and, with a clean knife, to scrape the outside; the tub should then be wiped with a clean cloth, and sprinkled all round with salt, the butter replaced, and the lid kept on to exclude the air. It is necessary to take these precautions, as sometimes a want of proper cleanliness in the dairymaid causes the outside of the butter to become rancid, and if the scraping be neglected, the whole mass would soon become spoiled. To choose salt butter, plunge a knife into it, and if, when drawn out, the blade smells rancid or unpleasant, the butter is bad. The layers in tubs will vary greatly, the butter being made at different times; so, to try if the whole tub be good, the cask should be unhooped, and the butter tried between the staves.
1633. In large families that buy salt butter by the tub, the first step is to take all the butter out and, using a clean knife, scrape off the outer layer. The tub should then be wiped with a clean cloth and sprinkled with salt all around. After that, the butter is put back in, and the lid is kept on to keep out the air. These precautions are important because sometimes a lack of proper cleanliness from the dairymaid can make the outside of the butter go rancid, and if the scraping is skipped, the entire batch could spoil quickly. To check if the salt butter is good, stick a knife into it, and if the blade smells rancid or off when pulled out, the butter is bad. The layers in the tubs can vary a lot since the butter is made at different times; therefore, to see if the whole tub is good, the cask should be opened, and the butter should be tested between the staves.
It is not necessary to state that butter is extracted from cream, or from unskimmed milk, by the churn. Of course it partakes of the qualities of the milk, and winter butter is said not to be so good as spring butter.
It’s not necessary to say that butter comes from cream or from whole milk, using a churn. Naturally, it shares some qualities of the milk, and winter butter is said to be not as good as spring butter.
A word of caution is necessary about rancid butter. Nobody eats it on bread, but it is sometimes used in cooking, in forms in which the acidity can be more or less disguised. So much the worse; it is almost poisonous, disguise it as you may. Never, under any exigency whatever, be tempted into allowing butter with even a soupçon of "turning" to enter into the composition of any dish that appears on your table. And, in general, the more you can do without the employment of butter that has been subjected to the influence of heat, the better. The woman of modern times is not a "leech;" but she might often keep the "leech" from the door, if she would give herself the trouble to invent innocent sauces.
A word of caution is necessary about rancid butter. Nobody eats it on bread, but it’s sometimes used in cooking in ways that can make the acidity less noticeable. That’s unfortunate; it’s almost poisonous, no matter how you try to disguise it. Never, under any circumstances, be tempted to let butter that has even a soupçon of "turning" be included in any dish that you serve. And, in general, the less you rely on butter that has been heated, the better. The modern woman is not a "leech," but she could often keep the "leech" from the door if she took the time to come up with innocent sauces.
BUTTER-MOULDS, for Moulding Fresh Butter.
Butter molds for shaping fresh butter.
[Illustration: DISH OF ROLLED BUTTER.]
[Illustration: DISH OF ROLLED BUTTER.]
1634. Butter-moulds, or wooden stamps for moulding fresh butter, are much used, and are made in a variety of forms and shapes. In using them, let them be kept scrupulously clean, and before the butter is pressed in, the interior should be well wetted with cold water; the butter must then be pressed in, the mould opened, and the perfect shape taken out. The butter may be then dished, and garnished with a wreath of parsley, if for a cheese course; if for breakfast, put it into an ornamental butter-dish, with a little water at the bottom, should the weather be very warm.
1634. Butter molds, or wooden stamps for shaping fresh butter, are commonly used and come in various designs. When using them, make sure they are kept meticulously clean. Before pressing in the butter, the inside should be thoroughly wetted with cold water; then the butter should be pressed in, the mold opened, and the perfectly shaped butter removed. You can then serve the butter, garnishing it with a parsley wreath if it's for a cheese course; if it's for breakfast, place it in a decorative butter dish with a bit of water at the bottom, especially if the weather is very warm.
CURLED BUTTER.
1635. Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in the wall; make a knot with the other two ends, so that a stick might pass through. Put the butter into the cloth; twist it tightly over a dish, into which the butter will fall through the knot, so forming small and pretty little strings. The butter may then be garnished with parsley, if to serve with a cheese course; or it may be sent to table plain for breakfast, in an ornamental dish. Squirted butter for garnishing hams, salads, eggs, &c., is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in the shape of a cornet, and squeezing the butter in fine strings from the hole at the bottom. Scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon or scooper in warm water, and then scooping the butter quickly and thin. In warm weather, it would not be necessary to heat the spoon.
1635. Tie a strong cloth by two corners to an iron hook in the wall; make a knot with the other two ends so that a stick can pass through. Put the butter into the cloth; twist it tightly over a dish, letting the butter fall through the knot, forming small and pretty strings. You can then garnish the butter with parsley if it's for a cheese course, or serve it plain for breakfast in a nice dish. For decorating hams, salads, eggs, etc., squirted butter is made by shaping a piece of stiff paper into a cone and squeezing the butter into fine strings from the hole at the bottom. Scooped butter is created by dipping a teaspoon or scooper in warm water, then quickly scooping the butter thinly. In warm weather, you don’t need to heat the spoon.
BUTTER may be kept fresh for ten or twelve days by a very simple process. Knead it well in cold water till the buttermilk is extracted; then put it in a glazed jar, which invert in another, putting into the latter a sufficient quantity of water to exclude the air. Renew the water every day.
BUTTER can stay fresh for ten to twelve days using a very simple method. Knead it well in cold water until the buttermilk is removed; then place it in a glazed jar, which you turn upside down in another jar filled with enough water to keep out the air. Change the water every day.
FAIRY BUTTER.
1636. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful of orange-flower water, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1/4 lb. of good fresh butter.
1636. INGREDIENTS.—The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoon of orange-flower water, 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 1/4 lb. of high-quality fresh butter.
Mode.—Beat the yolks of the eggs smoothly in a mortar, with the orange-flower water and the sugar, until the whole is reduced to a fine paste; add the butter, and force all through an old but clean cloth by wringing the cloth and squeezing the butter very hard. The butter will then drop on the plate in large and small pieces, according to the holes in the cloth. Plain butter may be done in the same manner, and is very quickly prepared, besides having a very good effect.
Mode.—Beat the egg yolks smoothly in a bowl, along with the orange flower water and sugar, until everything turns into a fine paste; then add the butter and push it through a clean old cloth by wringing and squeezing it very hard. The butter will then land on the plate in both large and small pieces, depending on the holes in the cloth. Regular butter can be done the same way and is prepared very quickly, while also having a great effect.
BUTTER.—White-coloured butter is said not to be so good as the yellow; but the yellow colour is often artificially produced, by the introduction of colouring matter into the churn.
BUTTER.—White butter is said to be not as good as the yellow kind; however, the yellow color is often created artificially by adding food coloring to the churn.
ANCHOVY BUTTER.
1637. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of butter allow 6 anchovies, 1 small bunch of parsley.
1637. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of butter, use 6 anchovies and 1 small bunch of parsley.
Mode.—Wash, bone, and pound the anchovies well in a mortar; scald the parsley, chop it, and rub through a sieve; then pound all the ingredients together, mix well, and make the butter into pats immediately. This makes a pretty dish, if fancifully moulded, for breakfast or supper, and should be garnished with parsley.
Method.—Wash, debone, and grind the anchovies thoroughly in a mortar; blanch the parsley, chop it, and strain it through a sieve; then combine all the ingredients, mix thoroughly, and shape the butter into pats right away. This creates an attractive dish, especially if shaped creatively, for breakfast or dinner, and should be garnished with parsley.
Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Average cost, £0.08
Sufficient to make 2 dishes, with 4 pats each.
Enough to make 2 dishes, with 4 pieces each.
Seasonable at any time.
"Always in season."
CHEESE.
1638. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought in large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the larger quantity spread with a thickly-buttered sheet of white paper, and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheeses moist that are in daily use, when they come from table a damp cloth should be wrapped round them, and the cheese put into a pan with a cover to it, in a cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them forward, put them into a damp cellar; and, to check too large a production of mites, spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese which are too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made into Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with macaroni. Cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water, or by rubbing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses selected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind.
1638. In families that eat a lot of cheese and buy it in large quantities, a piece should be cut from the whole cheese. The larger portion should be covered with a thick layer of buttered white paper, and the outside should be wiped occasionally. To keep cheeses moist that are used daily, wrap them in a damp cloth when they come off the table, and place the cheese in a covered pan in a cool, but not overly dry, spot. To ripen cheeses and encourage their development, put them in a damp cellar; and to prevent a large production of mites, spirits can be poured on the affected areas. Pieces of cheese that are too close to the rind or too dry to serve can be made into Welsh rare-bits or grated and mixed with macaroni. Cheeses can be preserved perfectly for years by covering them with parchment softened in water or by coating them with melted fat. The cheeses chosen should be free from any cracks or bruises.
CHEESE.—It is well known that some persons like cheese in a state of decay, and even "alive." There is no accounting for tastes, and it maybe hard to show why mould, which is vegetation, should not be eaten as well as salad, or maggots as well as eels. But, generally speaking, decomposing bodies are not wholesome eating, and the line must be drawn somewhere.
CHEESE.—It’s well known that some people enjoy cheese in a state of decay, and even “alive.” Tastes vary, and it might be hard to justify why mold, which is a type of vegetation, shouldn’t be eaten like salad, or why maggots shouldn’t be eaten like eels. But generally speaking, decomposing food isn’t healthy to eat, and there needs to be a limit somewhere.
STILTON CHEESE.
[Illustration: STILTON CHEESE.]
[Illustration: Stilton Cheese.]
1639. Stilton cheese, or British Parmesan, as it is sometimes called, is generally preferred to all other cheeses by those whose authority few will dispute. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas; or, to be in prime order, should be kept from 10 to 12 months, or even longer. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced by inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the top. From 3 weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. An additional flavour may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the top, and pouring therein port, sherry, Madeira, or old ale, and letting the cheese absorb these for 2 or 3 weeks. But that cheese is the finest which is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters. In serving a Stilton cheese, the top of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper, with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced.
1639. Stilton cheese, sometimes called British Parmesan, is generally favored over all other cheeses by experts who are widely respected. Cheeses made in May or June are typically served at Christmas; to be in top condition, they should be aged for 10 to 12 months or even longer. Sometimes, an artificial ripening process for Stilton cheese is achieved by inserting a small piece of spoiled Cheshire cheese into a hole at the top. It usually takes about 3 weeks to a month for the cheese to ripen. An extra flavor can be added by removing a piece from the top and pouring in port, sherry, Madeira, or old ale, then letting the cheese soak these for 2 to 3 weeks. However, those who are knowledgeable in these matters believe the best cheese is the one that is aged without any artificial methods. When serving Stilton cheese, the top should be cut off to create a lid, and a napkin or white paper with a ruffled edge should be pinned around it. When the cheese is taken away from the table, the lid should be replaced.
MODE OF SERVING CHEESE.
[Illustration: CHEESE-GLASS.]
[Illustration: CHEESE-GLASS.]
1640. The usual mode of serving cheese at good tables is to cut a small quantity of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. Should the cheese crumble much, of course this method is rather wasteful, and it may then be put on the table in the piece, and the host may cut from it. When served thus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white d'oyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream cheese is often served in a cheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan: the latter should he put into a covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, pats or slices of butter, and salad, cucumber, or water-cresses, should always form part of a cheese course.
1640. The typical way to serve cheese at nice tables is to cut a small amount into neat square pieces and place them in a glass cheese dish, which is passed around. If the cheese crumbles a lot, though, this method can be wasteful, so it can be put on the table whole, and the host can cut from it. When served this way, the cheese should always be carefully scraped and placed on a neatly folded white doily or napkin. Cream cheese is often included in a cheese course, and sometimes grated Parmesan: the latter should be served in a covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese biscuits, pats or slices of butter, and salad, cucumber, or watercress should always be part of a cheese course.
SMOKING CHEESES.—The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them a sharp taste. They possessed public places expressly for this use, and subject to police regulations which no one could evade.
SMOKED CHEESES.—The Romans smoked their cheeses to give them a sharp flavor. They had public places specifically for this purpose, which were regulated by laws that no one could bypass.
A celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is like a woman with one eye.
A famous food lover said that a dinner without cheese is like a woman with one eye.
CHEESE SANDWICHES.
1641. INGREDIENTS.—Slices of brown bread-and-butter, thin slices of cheese.
1641. INGREDIENTS.—Slices of buttered brown bread, thin slices of cheese.
Mode.—Cut from a nice fat Cheshire, or any good rich cheese, some slices about 1/2 inch thick, and place them between some slices of brown bread-and-butter, like sandwiches. Place them on a plate in the oven, and, when the bread is toasted, serve on a napkin very hot and very quickly.
Mode.—Slice some good, rich cheese, like a nice fat Cheshire, into 1/2 inch thick pieces, and put them between slices of brown bread with butter, like sandwiches. Put them on a plate in the oven, and when the bread is toasted, serve them on a napkin while they’re still hot and quickly.
Time.—10 minutes in a brisk oven.
Time.—10 minutes in a hot oven.
Average cost, 1-1/2d. each sandwich.
Average cost, 1.5d. each sandwich.
Sufficient.—Allow a sandwich for each person.
Sufficient.—Provide a sandwich for each person.
Seasonable at any time.
Always appropriate.
CHEESE.—One of the most important products of coagulated milk is cheese. Unfermented, or cream-cheese, when quite fresh, is good for subjects with whom milk does not disagree; but cheese, in its commonest shape, is only fit for sedentary people as an after-dinner stimulant, and in very small quantity. Bread and cheese, as a meal, is only fit for soldiers on march or labourers in the open air, who like it because it "holds the stomach a long time."
CHEESE.—One of the most important products of coagulated milk is cheese. Fresh unfermented cheese, or cream cheese, is great for people who can tolerate milk. However, cheese, in its most common form, is only suitable for sedentary individuals as a light after-dinner snack, and in very small amounts. A meal of bread and cheese is only appropriate for soldiers on the move or laborers working outdoors, who appreciate it because it keeps them feeling full for a long time.
CAYENNE CHEESES.
1642. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of grated cheese, 1/3 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoonful of salt; water.
1642. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of grated cheese, 1/3 teaspoon of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoon of salt; water.
Mode.—Rub the butter in the flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne. and salt; and mix these ingredients well together. Moisten with sufficient water to make the whole into a paste; roll out, and cut into fingers about 4 inches in length. Bake them in a moderate oven a very light colour, and serve very hot.
Method.—Rub the butter into the flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne, and salt; then mix all the ingredients well together. Moisten with enough water to form a paste; roll it out and cut into strips about 4 inches long. Bake in a moderate oven until they are a light color, and serve hot.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, £0.07.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. Good at any time.
TO MAKE A FONDUE.
1643. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, the weight of 2 in Parmesan or good Cheshire cheese, the weight of 2 in butter; pepper and salt to taste.
1643. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, the equivalent of 2 in Parmesan or good Cheshire cheese, the equivalent of 2 in butter; pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former in a basin, and grate the cheese, or cut it into very thin flakes. Parmesan or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever is the most convenient, although the former is considered more suitable for this dish; or an equal quantity of each may be used. Break the butter into small pieces, add it to the other ingredients, with sufficient pepper and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whisk the whites of the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either bake the fondue in a soufflé-dish or small round cake-tin. Fill the dish only half full, as the fondue should rise very much. Pin a napkin round the tin or dish, and serve very hot and very quickly. If allowed to stand after it is withdrawn from the oven, the beauty and lightness of this preparation will be entirely spoiled.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the yolks in a bowl, and grate the cheese, or cut it into very thin flakes. You can use Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, whichever is more convenient, though Parmesan is generally considered better for this dish; you can also use equal amounts of both. Break the butter into small pieces, add it to the other ingredients, along with enough pepper and salt to season well, and mix everything thoroughly. Whip the egg whites until they're fluffy, gently fold them in, and either bake the fondue in a soufflé dish or a small round cake tin. Fill the dish only halfway, as the fondue will puff up a lot. Wrap a napkin around the tin or dish and serve very hot and quickly. If it sits after coming out of the oven, the beauty and lightness of this dish will be completely ruined.
Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Appropriate at any time.
BRILLAT SAVARIN'S FONDUE.
(An excellent Recipe.)
(A great recipe.)
1644. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs, cheese, butter, pepper and salt.
1644. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs, cheese, butter, pepper, and salt.
Mode.—Take the same number of eggs as there are guests; weigh the eggs in the shell, allow a third of their weight in Gruyère cheese, and a piece of butter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese. Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well; add the cheese, which should be grated, and the butter, which should be broken into small pieces. Stir these ingredients together with a wooden spoon; put the mixture into a lined saucepan, place it over the fire, and stir until the substance is thick and soft. Put in a little salt, according to the age of the cheese, and a good sprinkling of pepper, and serve the fondue on a very hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow the fondue to remain on the fire after the mixture is set, as, if it boils, it will be entirely spoiled. Brillat Savarin recommends that some choice Burgundy should he handed round with this dish. We have given this recipe exactly as he recommends it to be made; but we have tried it with good Cheshire cheese, and found it answer remarkably well.
Mode.—Take the same number of eggs as there are guests; weigh the eggs in their shells, and use a third of their weight in Gruyère cheese, plus a piece of butter that is one-sixth the weight of the cheese. Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat them well; add the grated cheese and the butter, broken into small pieces. Mix these ingredients together with a wooden spoon; pour the mixture into a lined saucepan, place it over the heat, and stir until it thickens and becomes soft. Add a little salt depending on the cheese's age, and a generous amount of pepper, then serve the fondue on a very hot silver or metal plate. Don’t leave the fondue on the heat after it sets; if it boils, it will be completely ruined. Brillat Savarin suggests serving this dish with a nice Burgundy wine. We've shared this recipe just as he recommends, but we've also tried it with good Cheshire cheese and found it works remarkably well.
Time.—About 4 minutes to set the mixture.
Time.—Approximately 4 minutes to set the mixture.
Average cost for 4 persons, 10d.
Average cost for 4 people, 10d.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 egg, with the other ingredients in proportion, for one person.
Sufficient.—Use 1 egg, along with the other ingredients in proportion, for one person.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
MACARONI, as usually served with the CHEESE COURSE.
MACARONI, as typically served with the CHEESE COURSE.
I.
1645. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of milk, 2 pints of water, bread crumbs.
1645. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of milk, 2 pints of water, bread crumbs.
Mode.—Put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt to flavour it; place it on the fire, and, when it boils quickly, drop in the macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender; drain the macaroni, and put it into a deep dish. Have ready the grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire; sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the remainder of the butter, and pour it gently over the bread crumbs. Place the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs; turn it once or twice, that it may be equally coloured, and serve very hot. The top of the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than placing it before the fire, as the process is more expeditious; but it should never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil, and so impart a very disagreeable flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little salt instead of using milk, but should then have a small piece of butter mixed with it.
Mode.—Combine the milk and water in a saucepan with enough salt to flavor it. Heat until it boils rapidly, then add the macaroni. Keep the water boiling until the macaroni is tender; drain it and put it into a deep dish. Prepare grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire; sprinkle it over the macaroni along with some butter cut into small pieces, saving some cheese for the top layer. Season with a pinch of pepper and cover the cheese with fine bread crumbs. Gently heat the remaining butter without letting it sizzle, then pour it over the bread crumbs. Place the dish in front of a bright fire to brown the crumbs; turn it once or twice for even coloring, and serve hot. The top of the macaroni can be browned with a salamander, which is preferable to using the fire for a quicker result. Avoid browning it in the oven, as this could make the butter oily and create an unpleasant flavor. When boiling the macaroni, ensure it is tender but still firm, with no part starting to dissolve, and the shape intact. It can also be boiled in plain water with a bit of salt instead of milk, but in that case, add a small piece of butter.
Time.—1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown it before the fire.
Time.—1.5 to 1.75 hours to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown it over the fire.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. Appropriate at any time.
Note.—Riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner, but does not require boiling so long a time.
Note.—Riband macaroni can be prepared in the same way, but doesn't need to be boiled for as long.
II.
1646. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of pipe or riband macaroni, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1 oz. of butter.
1646. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of pipe or ribbon macaroni, 1/2 cup of milk, 1/2 cup of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Wash the macaroni, and boil it in the gravy and milk until quite tender, without being broken. Drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and 2 tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in; make this sufficiently hot to thicken, but do not allow it to boil; pour it over the macaroni, over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces; brown with a salamander, or before the fire, and serve.
Mode.—Rinse the macaroni and cook it in the gravy and milk until it’s tender but not broken. Drain it and place it in a deep dish. Whisk the egg yolks with the cream and 2 tablespoons of the liquid the macaroni was cooked in; heat this until it thickens, but don’t let it boil. Pour it over the macaroni, then sprinkle grated cheese and small pieces of butter on top; brown it with a salamander or under the broiler, and serve.
Time.—1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken the eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown.
Time.—1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken the eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown.
Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 3 or 4 people. Suitable at any time.
III.
1647. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/2 pint of brown gravy No. 436, 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese.
1647. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/2 pint of brown gravy No. 436, 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese.
Mode.—Wash the macaroni, and boil it in salt and water until quite tender; drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Have ready a pint of good brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and send it to table with grated Parmesan served on a separate dish. When the flavour is liked, a little pounded mace may be added to the water in which the macaroni is boiled; but this must always be sparingly added, as it will impart a very strong flavour.
Method.—Rinse the macaroni and cook it in salted water until it's nice and tender; drain it and place it in a deeper dish. Prepare a pint of quality brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and serve it with grated Parmesan on the side. If desired, you can add a small amount of ground mace to the boiling water for the macaroni, but be careful to use it sparingly, as it can have a strong flavor.
Time.—1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni.
Time.—1.5 to 1.75 hours to boil the macaroni.
Average cost, with the gravy and cheese, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, with the gravy and cheese, £0.06.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 3 or 4 people. Good at any time.
POUNDED CHEESE.
1648. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of cheese allow 3 oz. of fresh butter.
1648. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of cheese, use 3 ounces of fresh butter.
Mode.—To pound cheese is an economical way of using it, if it has become dry; it is exceedingly good spread on bread, and is the best way of eating it for those whose digestion is weak. Cut up the cheese into small pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding butter in the above proportion. Press it down into a jar, cover with clarified butter, and it will keep for several days. The flavour may be very much increased by adding mixed mustard (about a teaspoonful to every lb.), or cayenne, or pounded mace. Curry-powder is also not unfrequently mixed with it.
Mode.—Pounding cheese is a cost-effective way to use it if it’s gone dry; it’s really great on bread and is the best option for people with weak digestion. Cut the cheese into small pieces and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding butter in the suggested amount. Pack it down into a jar, cover it with clarified butter, and it will last for several days. You can enhance the flavor significantly by adding mixed mustard (about a teaspoon for every pound), cayenne, or ground mace. Curry powder is often mixed in too.
RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE.
RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE.
1649. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of Cheshire cheese, 1/4 lb. of Parmesan cheese, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste.
1649. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of Cheshire cheese, 1/4 lb. of Parmesan cheese, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll; pepper, salt, and ground mace to taste.
Mode.—Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes; strain, and put it into a mortar; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped, the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound these ingredients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them with the paste, and put it into small pans or saucers, which should not be more than half filled. Bake them from 10 to 12 minutes, and serve them very hot and very quickly. This batter answers equally well for macaroni after it is boiled tender.
Method.—Soak the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes; strain it, and put it in a bowl. Add the cheese, which should be finely grated, the butter, the egg yolks, and seasoning, and mix these ingredients together well. Whip the egg whites, combine them with the mixture, and pour it into small pans or saucers, filling them no more than halfway. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, and serve them very hot and quickly. This batter also works well for macaroni after it’s been boiled tender.
Time—10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Time—10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 7 or 8 people. Appropriate at any time.
PASTRY RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE.
PASTRY RAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COURSE.
1650. INGREDIENTS.—Any pieces of very good light puff-paste Cheshire, Parmesan, or Stilton cheese.
1650. INGREDIENTS.—Any pieces of very good light puff pastry, Cheshire, Parmesan, or Stilton cheese.
Mode.—The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, &c. answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste, roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with grated cheese of a nice flavour. Fold the paste in three, roll it out again, and sprinkle more cheese over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with a paste-cutter shape it in any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. The appearance of this dish may be very much improved by brushing the ramakins over with yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven. Where expense is not objected to, Parmesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish.
Mode.—The leftover bits of pastry from large tarts, etc., are perfect for making these small dishes. Collect the pastry scraps, roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with a good-tasting grated cheese. Fold the pastry into thirds, roll it out again, and add more cheese; fold it again, roll it out, and use a pastry cutter to shape it however you like. Bake the ramekins in a hot oven for 10 to 15 minutes, serve them on a warm napkin, and act quickly. You can enhance the look of this dish by brushing the ramekins with egg yolk before baking. If cost isn’t a concern, Parmesan is the best cheese for this recipe.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 10d.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, with 1/2 lb. of paste, 10d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 6 or 7 people. Good at any time.
TOASTED CHEESE, or SCOTCH RARE-BIT.
Toasted cheese, or Scotch rarebit.
1651. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of rich cheese, toast, mustard, and pepper.
1651. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of good cheese, toast, mustard, and pepper.
[Illustration: HOT-WATER CHEESE-DISH.]
[Illustration: Hot Water Cheese Dish.]
Mode.—Cut some nice rich sound cheese into rather thin slices; melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and, when melted, add a small quantity of mixed mustard and a seasoning of pepper; stir the cheese until it is completely dissolved, then brown it before the fire, or with a salamander. Fill the bottom of the cheese-toaster with hot water, and serve with dry or buttered toasts, whichever may be preferred. Our engraving illustrates a cheese-toaster with hot-water reservoir: the cheese is melted in the upper tin, which is placed in another vessel of boiling water, so keeping the preparation beautifully hot. A small quantity of porter, or port wine, is sometimes mixed with the cheese; and, if it be not very rich, a few pieces of butter may be mixed with it to great advantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread on the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-dish at the top of the hot water. Whichever way it is served, it is highly necessary that the mixture be very hot, and very quickly sent to table, or it will be worthless.
Mode.—Cut some nice rich cheese into fairly thin slices; melt it in a cheese toaster on a hot plate, or over steam. Once it's melted, add a small amount of mixed mustard and a sprinkle of pepper; stir the cheese until it’s completely dissolved, then brown it over the fire or with a salamander. Fill the bottom of the cheese toaster with hot water, and serve with dry or buttered toast, based on your preference. Our engraving shows a cheese toaster with a hot-water reservoir: the cheese melts in the upper tin, which sits in another vessel of boiling water, keeping the preparation beautifully hot. Sometimes a small amount of porter or port wine is mixed with the cheese, and if it’s not very rich, a few pieces of butter can enhance it nicely. Occasionally, the melted cheese is spread on the toast and then placed in the cheese dish at the top of the hot water. Regardless of how it’s served, it’s very important that the mixture is served very hot and quickly sent to the table, or it will be worthless.
Time.—About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.
Time.—About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.
Average cost, 1-1/2d. per slice.
Average cost, 1.5d. per slice.
Sufficient.—Allow a slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient.—Give a slice to each person. Suitable at any time.
TOASTED CHEESE, or WELSH RARE-BIT.
Toasted cheese or Welsh rarebit.
1652. INGREDIENTS.—Slices of bread, butter, Cheshire or Gloucester cheese, mustard, and pepper.
1652. INGREDIENTS.—Slices of bread, butter, Cheshire or Gloucester cheese, mustard, and pepper.
Mode.—Cut the bread into slices about 1/2 inch in thickness; pare off the crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and spread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, from a good rich fat cheese; lay them on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be equally melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a seasoning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To facilitate the melting of the cheese, it may be cut into thin flakes or toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so essential to send this dish hot to table, it is a good plan to melt the cheese in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to table, allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast should always accompany them, with mustard, pepper, and salt.
Mode.—Slice the bread into pieces about 1/2 inch thick; remove the crust, toast the bread lightly without hardening or burning it, and spread butter on it. Cut some slices, slightly smaller than the bread, from a good rich fatty cheese; place them on the toasted bread in a cheese toaster; make sure the cheese doesn’t burn, and allow it to melt evenly. Spread a little prepared mustard and a sprinkle of pepper on top, and serve very hot, on hot plates. To help the cheese melt, you can cut it into thin flakes or toast one side before placing it on the bread. Since it's important to serve this dish hot, a good idea is to melt the cheese in small round silver or metal pans, and bring these pans to the table, one for each guest. Always accompany them with slices of dry or buttered toast, along with mustard, pepper, and salt.
Time.—About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.
Time.—Approximately 5 minutes to melt the cheese.
Average cost, 1-1/2d. each slice.
Average cost, 1.5d. each slice.
Sufficient.—Allow a slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.
Enough.—Give each person a piece. Good anytime.
Note.—Should the cheese be dry, a little butter mixed with it will be an improvement.
Note.—If the cheese is dry, mixing in a bit of butter will make it better.
"COW CHEESE."—It was only fifty years after Aristotle—the fourth century before Christ—that butter began to be noticed as an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of the Parthians and Scythians, who used to send it to them, had it served upon their tables, and called it at first "oil of milk," and later, bouturos, "cow cheese."
"COW CHEESE."—It was just fifty years after Aristotle—back in the fourth century BC—that people started to pay attention to butter as food. The Greeks, following the example of the Parthians and Scythians, who would send it to them, began to serve it at their meals and initially referred to it as "oil of milk," before later calling it bouturos, "cow cheese."
SCOTCH WOODCOCK.
1653. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of hot buttered toast; allow 1 anchovy to each slice. For the sauce,—1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs.
1653. INGREDIENTS.—A few slices of hot buttered toast; allow 1 anchovy for each slice. For the sauce,—1/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs.
Mode.—Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former, stir to them the cream, and bring the sauce to the boiling-point, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Have ready some hot buttered toast, spread with anchovies pounded to a paste; pour a little of the hot sauce on the top, and serve very hot and very quickly.
Mode.—Separate the egg yolks from the whites; beat the yolks, mix in the cream, and heat the sauce until it’s just about to boil, but don’t let it actually boil, or it will curdle. Have some hot buttered toast ready, spread with anchovies that have been mashed into a paste; pour a little of the hot sauce over the top, and serve it very hot and very quickly.
Time.—5 minutes to make the sauce hot.
Time.—5 minutes to heat the sauce.
Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient.—Give each person half a slice. Seasonable at any time.
TO CHOOSE EGGS.
1654. In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to the large end of the egg, and, if it feels warm, it is new, and may be relied on as a fresh egg. Another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before a lighted candle, or to the light, and if the egg looks clear, it will be tolerably good; if thick, it is stale; and if there is a black spot attached to the shell, it is worthless. No egg should be used for culinary purposes with the slightest taint in it, as it will render perfectly useless those with which it has been mixed. Eggs that are purchased, and that cannot be relied on, should always be broken in a cup, and then put into a basin: by this means stale or bad eggs may be easily rejected, without wasting the others.
1654. When choosing eggs, touch the large end with your tongue. If it feels warm, it's fresh and can be trusted. Another way to check freshness is to hold the egg up to a lit candle or a light. If the egg looks clear, it's pretty good; if it appears thick, it's stale, and if there's a black spot on the shell, it's no good. No egg should be used for cooking if it shows even the slightest sign of being spoiled, as it can ruin the good ones it gets mixed with. If you buy eggs that you can’t trust, always break them into a cup first and then transfer them to a bowl. This way, you can easily discard any stale or bad eggs without wasting the good ones.
EGGS contain, for their volume, a greater quantity of nutriment than any other article of food. But it does not follow that they are always good for weak stomachs; quite the contrary; for it is often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work upon, a considerable volume of ingesta, over which the nutritive matter is diffused, and so exposed to the action of the gastric juice at many points. There are many persons who cannot digest eggs, however cooked. It is said, however, that their digestibility decreases in proportion to the degree in which they are hardened by boiling.
EGGS contain, relative to their size, more nutrients than any other type of food. However, that doesn't mean they're always suitable for weak stomachs; in fact, the opposite can be true. It's often important to provide the stomach with a large surface area to work with, a good amount of food, so the nutrients can be spread out and exposed to gastric juices at multiple points. There are many people who struggle to digest eggs, no matter how they're prepared. It's said, though, that their digestibility goes down the more they are cooked through boiling.
TO KEEP EGGS FRESH FOR SEVERAL WEEKS.
1655. Have ready a large saucepan, capable of holding 3 or 4 quarts, full of boiling water. Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, say 20 at a time, and hold them in the water (which must be kept boiling) for 20 seconds. Proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as you wish to preserve; then pack them away in sawdust. We have tried this method of preserving eggs, and can vouch for its excellence: they will be found, at the end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough for culinary purposes; and although the white may be a little tougher than that of a new-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly the same. Many persons keep eggs for a long time by smearing the shells with butter or sweet oil: they should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, and the eggs not allowed to touch each other. Eggs for storing should be collected in fine weather, and should not be more than 24 hours old when they are packed away, or their flavour, when used, cannot be relied on. Another simple way of preserving eggs is to immerse them in lime-water soon after they have been laid, and then to put the vessel containing the lime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse.
1655. Get a large saucepan that can hold 3 or 4 quarts of boiling water. Place the eggs into a cabbage net, about 20 at a time, and keep them in the boiling water for 20 seconds. Continue this process until you've preserved as many eggs as you want; then store them in sawdust. We have tried this method of preserving eggs and can confirm its effectiveness: they will be perfectly fine for cooking after 2 or 3 months; while the whites may be a bit tougher than fresh eggs, the yolks will be almost the same. Many people preserve eggs for a long time by rubbing the shells with butter or sweet oil. They should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, ensuring the eggs don't touch each other. Eggs for long-term storage should be collected in good weather and should not be more than 24 hours old when packed, or their flavor may not be reliable when used. Another simple method to preserve eggs is to soak them in lime-water right after they have been laid, and then store the container with the lime-water in a cellar or cool outbuilding.
Seasonable.—The best time for preserving eggs is from July to September.
Seasonable.—The ideal time for preserving eggs is from July to September.
EGGS.—The quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by the food of the fowls who lay them. Herbs and grain together make a better food than grain only. When the hens eat too many insects, the eggs have a disagreeable flavour.
EGGS.—The quality of eggs is said to be greatly influenced by the diet of the hens that lay them. A mix of herbs and grain provides better nutrition than grain alone. When the hens consume excessive insects, the eggs develop an unpleasant taste.
TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c.
TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c.
[Illustration: EGG-STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST-TABLE.]
[Illustration: EGG STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST TABLE.]
1656. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after they are laid; but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water; put the eggs into it gently with a spoon, letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is withdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and consequently crack. For those who like eggs lightly boiled, 3 minutes will be found sufficient; 3-3/4 to 4 minutes will be ample time to set the white nicely; and, if liked hard, 6 to 7 minutes will not be found too long. Should the eggs be unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow an extra 1/2 minute for them. Eggs for salads should be boiled from 10 minutes to 1/4 hour, and should be placed in a basin of cold water for a few minutes; they should then be rolled on the table with the hand, and the shell will peel off easily.
1656. Eggs for boiling shouldn’t be too fresh, nor should you boil them right after they’re laid; instead, you should allow a little extra time for boiling a fresh egg compared to one that’s three or four days old. Have a saucepan of boiling water ready; gently place the eggs in using a spoon, letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before pulling it out, so the egg doesn’t drop and crack. For those who like lightly boiled eggs, 3 minutes should be enough; 3¾ to 4 minutes will be sufficient to set the white nicely; and if you prefer hard-boiled, 6 to 7 minutes will be just right. If the eggs are unusually large, like those from black Spanish hens, add an extra 30 seconds for them. Eggs for salads should be boiled for 10 minutes to a quarter of an hour, then placed in a basin of cold water for a few minutes; after that, roll them on the table with your hand, and the shell will peel off easily.
Time.—To boil eggs lightly, for invalids or children, 3 minutes; to boil eggs to suit the generality of tastes, 3-3/4 to 4 minutes; to boil eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes.
Time.—To lightly boil eggs for the sick or children, 3 minutes; to boil eggs to please most people, 3¾ to 4 minutes; to boil eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes.
Note.—Silver or plated egg-dishes, like that shown in our engraving, are now very much used. The price of the one illustrated is £2. 2s., and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.
Note.—Silver or plated egg dishes, like the one shown in our illustration, are now very popular. The price of the one illustrated is £2. 2s., and it can be bought from Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336 Strand.
EGGS.—When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel full of boiling water, they crack, because the eggs being well filled, the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids, dilated by heat. If the volume of hot water be small, the shells do not crack, because its temperature is reduced by the eggs before the interior dilation can take place. Stale eggs, again, do not crack, because the air inside is easily compressed.
EGGS.—When fresh eggs are dropped into a pot full of boiling water, they crack because the eggs are full, and the heat causes the liquid inside to expand, pushing against the shells. If there’s only a small amount of hot water, the shells don’t crack because the water temperature drops due to the eggs before the inside can expand. On the other hand, stale eggs don’t crack because the air inside can be easily compressed.
BUTTERED EGGS.
1657. INGREDIENTS.—4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz. of butter.
1657. INGREDIENTS.—4 fresh eggs, 2 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Procure the eggs new-laid if possible; break them into a basin, and beat them well; put the butter into another basin, which place in boiling water, and stir till the butter is melted. Pour that and the eggs into a lined saucepan; hold it over a gentle fire, and, as the mixture begins to warm, pour it two or three times into the basin, and back again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated. Keep stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot, without boiling, and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed to boil, it will curdle, and so be entirely spoiled.
Mode.—If possible, get freshly laid eggs; crack them into a bowl and whisk them well. Place the butter in another bowl and set it over boiling water, stirring until it melts. Pour the melted butter and eggs into a lined saucepan; hold it over low heat and, as the mixture starts to warm, pour it back and forth between the bowl two or three times to mix the ingredients thoroughly. Keep stirring the eggs and butter in one direction until they are hot, without boiling, and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture boils, it will curdle and be completely ruined.
Time.—About 5 minutes to make the eggs hot. Average cost, 7d.
Time.—It takes about 5 minutes to heat the eggs. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient.—Allow a slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient.—Give each person a piece. Good at any time.
DUCKS' EGGS.
1658. Ducks' eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that, plainly boiled, they are not good for eating; they answer, however, very well for various culinary preparations where eggs are required; such as custards, &c. &c. Being so large and highly-flavoured, 1 duck's egg will go as far as 2 small hen's eggs; besides making whatever they are mixed with exceedingly rich. They also are admirable when used in puddings.
1658. Duck eggs typically have such a strong flavor that, when simply boiled, they aren't really enjoyable to eat. However, they work great for a variety of recipes that call for eggs, like custards, etc. Because they are so large and flavorful, one duck egg is equivalent to two small chicken eggs and adds a lot of richness to whatever dish they are included in. They're also fantastic in puddings.
PRIMITIVE METHOD OF COOKING EGGS.—The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs without the aid of fire. They placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for use.
PRIMITIVE METHOD OF COOKING EGGS.—The shepherds of Egypt had a unique way of cooking eggs without using fire. They put the eggs in a sling and spun it so fast that the friction with the air heated them to just the right temperature for use.
FRIED EGGS.
1659. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of lard, butter or clarified dripping.
1659. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1/4 lb. of lard, butter, or clarified fat.
[Illustration: FRIED EGGS ON BACON.]
[Illustration: FRIED EGGS ON BACON.]
Mode.—Place a delicately-clean frying-pan over a gentle fire; put in the fat, and allow it to come to the boiling-point. Break the eggs into cups, slip them into the boiling fat, and let them remain until the whites are delicately set; and, whilst they are frying, ladle a little of the fat over them. Take them up with a slice, drain them for a minute from their greasy moisture, trim them neatly, and serve on slices of fried bacon or ham; or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish, with the bacon put round as a garnish.
Method.—Put a clean frying pan over low heat; add the fat and let it heat until it starts to bubble. Crack the eggs into cups and gently slide them into the hot fat, allowing them to cook until the whites are just set. While they're cooking, spoon some of the fat over the eggs. Carefully lift them out with a spatula, let them drain for a minute to remove excess fat, trim them neatly, and serve on slices of fried bacon or ham; alternatively, you can place the eggs in the center of the dish with the bacon arranged around it as a garnish.
Time.—2 to 3 minutes. Average cost, 1d. each; 2d. when scarce.
Time.—2 to 3 minutes. Average cost, 1p each; 2p when scarce.
Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 2 people. Suitable anytime.
VENERATION FOR EGGS.—Many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect, approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements. The shell, they said, represented the earth; the white, water; the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell at one end of the egg.
VENERATION FOR EGGS.—Many of the most knowledgeable philosophers regarded eggs with a sort of respect, bordering on reverence, because they saw in them a symbol of the world and the four elements. They believed the shell represented the earth; the white symbolized water; the yolk stood for fire; and air was found under the shell at one end of the egg.
EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.
1660. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 6 eggs.
1660. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoon of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, juice of 1/2 lemon, 6 eggs.
Mode.—Put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan; stir them over the fire until the mixture thickens; pour in the milk, which should be boiling; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole for 5 minutes. Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce, and add the minced parsley; then boil the eggs hard, strip off the shells, cut the eggs into quarters, and put them on a dish. Bring the sauce to the boiling-point, add the lemon-juice, pour over the eggs, and serve.
Mode.—Combine the flour and half of the butter in a saucepan; stir them over the heat until the mixture thickens. Add the boiling milk, then season with pepper and salt, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Incorporate the remaining butter into the sauce and mix in the chopped parsley. Next, hard boil the eggs, remove the shells, cut the eggs into quarters, and place them on a plate. Bring the sauce to a boil, add the lemon juice, pour it over the eggs, and serve.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes.
Time.—5 minutes to boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 4 or 5 people. Good to have at any time.
OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the Dish in which they are
Cooked.
OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the dish they are
cooked in.
1661. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
1661. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—Butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter; melt it, break the eggs into it the same as for poaching, sprinkle them with white pepper and fine salt, and put the remainder of the butter, cut into very small pieces, on the top of them. Put the dish on a hot plate, or in the oven, or before the fire, and let it remain until the whites become set, but not hard, when serve immediately, placing the dish they were cooked in on another. To hasten the cooking of the eggs, a salamander may be held over them for a minute; but great care must be taken that they are not too much done. This is an exceedingly nice dish, and one very easily prepared for breakfast.
Mode.—Butter a dish generously with good fresh butter; melt it, break the eggs into it just like you would for poaching, sprinkle them with white pepper and fine salt, and add the rest of the butter, cut into very small pieces, on top of the eggs. Place the dish on a hot plate, in the oven, or in front of the fire, and let it stay there until the whites are set but not hard. Serve immediately, placing the dish they were cooked in onto another. To speed up the cooking of the eggs, you can hold a salamander over them for a minute, but be careful not to overcook them. This is a really nice dish and very easy to make for breakfast.
Time.—3 minutes. Average cost, 5d.
Time.—3 minutes. Average cost, 5d.
Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 2 people. Suitable anytime.
PLOVERS' EGGS.
1662. Plovers' eggs are usually served boiled hard, and sent to table in a napkin, either hot or cold. They may also be shelled, and served the same as eggs à la Tripe, with a good Béchamel sauce, or brown gravy, poured over them. They are also used for decorating salads, the beautiful colour of the white being generally so much admired.
1662. Plovers' eggs are typically served hard-boiled and brought to the table in a napkin, either hot or cold. They can also be shelled and served like eggs à la Tripe, with a rich Béchamel sauce or brown gravy poured over them. Additionally, they're used to garnish salads, as the lovely color of the white is often greatly admired.
POACHED EGGS.
[Illustration: EGGS POACHED ON TOAST.]
[Illustration: Poached Eggs on Toast.]
[Illustration: TIN EGG-POACHER.]
[Illustration: TIN EGG POACHER.]
1663. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs, water. To every pint of water allow 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
1663. INGREDIENTS.—Eggs, water. For every pint of water, add 1 tablespoon of vinegar.
Mode.—Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not quite new-laid; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for the purpose. If quite new-laid, the white is so milky it is almost impossible to set it; and, on the other hand, if the egg be at all stale, it is equally difficult to poach it nicely. Strain some boiling water into a deep clean frying-pan; break the egg into a cup without damaging the yolk, and, when the water boils, remove the pan to the side of the fire, and gently slip the egg into it. Place the pan over a gentle fire, and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicely set, when the egg is ready. Take it up gently with a slice, cut away the ragged edges of the white, and serve either on toasted bread or on slices of ham or bacon, or on spinach, &c. A poached egg should not be overdone, as its appearance and taste will be quite spoiled if the yolk be allowed to harden. When the egg is slipped into the water, the white should be gathered together, to keep it a little in form, or the cup should be turned over it for 1 minute. To poach an egg to perfection is rather a difficult operation; so, for inexperienced cooks, a tin egg-poacher may be purchased, which greatly facilitates this manner of dressing ecgs. Our illustration clearly shows what it is: it consists of a tin plate with a handle, with a space for three perforated cups. An egg should be broken into each cup, and the machine then placed in a stewpan of boiling water, which has been previously strained. When the whites of the eggs appear set, they are done, and should then be carefully slipped on to the toast or spinach, or with whatever they are served. In poaching eggs in a frying-pan, never do more than four at a time; and, when a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in which the eggs are done, use the above proportion.
Method.—Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not just laid; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for this. If they are too fresh, the white is so runny that it’s nearly impossible to set it. On the other hand, if the egg is even slightly stale, it’s just as hard to poach nicely. Pour some boiling water into a clean, deep frying pan; crack the egg into a cup without breaking the yolk, and when the water is boiling, move the pan to the side of the heat and gently slide the egg in. Put the pan over a gentle heat and keep the water simmering until the white is nicely set, and then the egg is ready. Carefully lift it out with a slotted spoon, trim any ragged edges of the white, and serve it either on toasted bread, slices of ham or bacon, or on spinach, etc. A poached egg should not be overcooked, as its appearance and taste will be ruined if the yolk hardens. When the egg is placed in the water, gather the white together to help it keep its shape, or hold the cup over it for 1 minute. Poaching an egg perfectly can be a bit tricky, so if you’re not experienced, you can buy a tin egg-poacher that makes this process much easier. Our illustration clearly shows what it looks like: it’s a tin plate with a handle, designed to hold three perforated cups. Break an egg into each cup, and then place the whole thing in a pot of boiling water that has been prepared beforehand. When the whites look set, they’re done and should be carefully slipped onto toast, spinach, or whatever they’re being served with. When poaching eggs in a frying pan, never cook more than four at a time; and if you prefer to add a little vinegar to the water, use the same proportion as mentioned above.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes, according to the size of the egg.
Time.—2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes, depending on the size of the egg.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 eggs to each person.
Sufficient.—Serve 2 eggs each.
Seasonable at any time, but less plentiful in winter.
Available at any time, but less abundant in winter.
POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAM.
1664. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, 1/2 gill of cream, salt, pepper, and pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz. of butter.
1664. INGREDIENTS.—1 pint of water, 1 teaspoon of salt, 4 teaspoons of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, 1/2 gill of cream, salt, pepper, and powdered sugar to taste, 1 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying-pan, and break each egg into a separate cup; bring the water, &c. to boil, and slip the eggs gently into it without breaking the yolks. Simmer them from 3 to 4 minutes, but not longer, and, with a slice, lift them out on to a hot dish, and trim the edges. Empty the pan of its contents, put in the cream, add a seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded sugar; bring the whole to the boiling-point; then add the butter, broken into small pieces; toss the pan round and round till the butter is melted; pour it over the eggs, and serve. To insure the eggs not being spoiled whilst the cream, &c., is preparing, it is a good plan to warm the cream with the butter, &c., before the eggs are poached, so that it may be poured over them immediately after they are dished.
Method.—Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying pan, and crack each egg into a separate cup. Bring the water, etc., to a boil, and gently slide the eggs into it without breaking the yolks. Simmer them for 3 to 4 minutes, but not longer. Use a slotted spoon to lift them out onto a warm plate and trim the edges. Empty the pan of its contents, add the cream, and season to taste with pepper, salt, and powdered sugar; bring this mixture to a boil. Then add the butter, cut into small pieces; swirl the pan until the butter melts; pour it over the eggs, and serve. To make sure the eggs don’t get overcooked while preparing the cream, etc., it’s a good idea to warm the cream with the butter, etc., before poaching the eggs, so that it can be poured over them right after they are plated.
Time.—3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to warm the cream.
Time.—3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to heat the cream.
Average cost for the above quantity, 9d.
Average cost for the above quantity, 9d.
Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Good for 2 people. Suitable at any time.
1665. COMPARATIVE SIZES OF EGGS.
[Illustration: 1 SWAN'S EGG. 2 TURKEY'S EGG. 3 DUCK'S EGG. 4 PLOVER'S
EGG.]
[Illustration: 1 SWAN'S EGG. 2 TURKEY'S EGG. 3 DUCK'S EGG. 4 PLOVER'S
EGG.]
SCOTCH EGGS.
1666. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of forcemeat No. 417, hot lard, 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.
1666. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 6 tablespoons of forcemeat No. 417, hot lard, 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.
Mode.—Boil the eggs for 10 minutes; strip them from the shells, and cover them with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; or substitute pounded anchovies for the ham. Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling lard, drain them before the fire from their greasy moisture, dish them, and pour round from 1/4 to 1/2 pint of good brown gravy. To enhance the appearance of the eggs, they may be rolled in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread crumbs; but this is scarcely necessary if they are carefully fried. The flavour of the ham or anchovy in the forcemeat must preponderate, as it should be very relishing.
Method. — Boil the eggs for 10 minutes, then peel them and cover them with a filling made using recipe No. 417; you can also use mashed anchovies instead of ham. Fry the eggs until they’re a nice brown in hot lard, drain off any excess grease, arrange them on a plate, and pour 1/4 to 1/2 pint of good brown gravy around them. To make the eggs look nicer, you can roll them in beaten egg and sprinkle bread crumbs on top, though this isn't necessary if you fry them carefully. The flavor of the ham or anchovy in the filling should be dominant, as it needs to be quite tasty.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.
Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Average cost, £1.20.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 3 or 4 people. Appropriate any time.
EGGS A LA TRIPE.
1667. INGREDIENTS.—8 eggs, 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 368, dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley.
1667. INGREDIENTS.—8 eggs, 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 368, dessert spoonful of finely minced parsley.
Mode.—Boil the eggs hard; put them into cold water, peel them, take out the yolks whole, and shred the whites. Make 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce by recipe No. 368; add the parsley, and, when the sauce is quite hot, put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the dish, and the shred whites round them; pour over the sauce, and garnish with leaves of puff-paste or fried croûtons. There is no necessity for putting the eggs into the saucepan with the Béchamel; the sauce, being quite hot, will warm the eggs sufficiently.
Mode.—Boil the eggs hard; place them in cold water, peel them, remove the yolks whole, and chop the whites. Prepare 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce using recipe No. 368; add the parsley, and when the sauce is hot, place the egg yolks in the center of the dish with the chopped whites around them; pour the sauce over everything and garnish with puff pastry leaves or fried croutons. There's no need to put the eggs in the saucepan with the Béchamel; the hot sauce will warm the eggs enough.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the eggs.
Time.—10 minutes to boil the eggs.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Good for 5 or 6 people.
Seasonable at any time.
Anytime is seasonal.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXXIV.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.
BREAD AND BREAD-MAKING.
1668. AMONG the numerous vegetable products yielding articles of food for man, the Cereals hold the first place. By means of skilful cultivation, mankind have transformed the original forms of these growths, poor and ill-flavoured as they perhaps were, into various fruitful and agreeable species, which yield an abundant and pleasant supply. Classified according to their respective richness in alimentary elements, the Cereals stand thus:—Wheat, and its varieties, Rye, Barley, Oats, Rice, Indian Corn. Everybody knows it is wheat flour which yields the best bread. Rye-bread is viscous, hard, less easily soluble by the gastric juice, and not so rich in nutritive power. Flour produced from barley, Indian corn, or rice, is not so readily made into bread; and the article, when made, is heavy and indigestible.
1668. AMONG the many types of plants that provide food for people, cereals are the most important. Through careful cultivation, humans have changed the original forms of these crops, which may have been poor and unappetizing, into various fruitful and enjoyable types that offer a plentiful and pleasant supply. When classified by their nutritional value, cereals are ranked as follows: Wheat and its varieties, Rye, Barley, Oats, Rice, and Corn. It’s well known that wheat flour makes the best bread. Rye bread tends to be dense, hard, less easily broken down by stomach acids, and not as nutritious. Flour made from barley, corn, or rice isn’t as easily turned into bread, and the resulting product is heavy and hard to digest.
1669. On examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals [Footnote: Cereal, a corn-producing plant; from Ceres, the goddess of agriculture.] used in the preparation of flour, such as wheat, maize, rye, barley, &c., it will be found to consist of two parts,—the husk, or exterior covering, which is generally of a dark colour, and the inner, or albuminous part, which is more or less white. In grinding, these two portions are separated, and the husk being blown away in the process of winnowing, the flour remains in the form of a light brown powder, consisting principally of starch and gluten. In order to render it white, it undergoes a process called "bolting." It is passed through a series of fine sieves, which separate the coarser parts, leaving behind fine white flour,—the "fine firsts" of the corn-dealer. The process of bolting, as just described, tends to deprive flour of its gluten, the coarser and darker portion containing much of that substance; while the lighter part is peculiarly rich in starch. Bran contains a large proportion of gluten; hence it will be seen why brown broad is so much more nutritious than white; in fact, we may lay it down as a general rule, that the whiter the bread the less nourishment it contains. Majendie proved this by feeding a dog for forty days with white wheaten bread, at the end of which time he died; while another dog, fed on brown bread made with flour mixed with bran, lived without any disturbance of his health. The "bolting" process, then, is rather injurious than beneficial in its result; and is one of the numerous instances where fashion has chosen a wrong standard to go by. In ancient times, down to the Emperors, no bolted flour was known. In many parts of Germany the entire meal is used; and in no part of the world are the digestive organs of the people in a better condition. In years of famine, when corn is scarce, the use of bolted flour is most culpable, for from 18 to 20 per cent, is lost in bran. Brown bread has, of late years, become very popular; and many physicians have recommended it to invalids with weak digestions with great success. This rage for white bread has introduced adulterations of a very serious character, affecting the health of the whole community. Potatoes are added for this purpose; but this is a comparatively harmless cheat, only reducing the nutritive property of the bread; but bone-dust and alum are also put in, which are far from harmless.
1669. When you look at a grain of corn from any of the many cereals used to make flour, like wheat, corn, rye, barley, etc., you'll see it has two parts—the husk, or outer shell, which is usually dark in color, and the inner, or starchy part, which is whiter. During grinding, these two parts are separated, and the husk is blown away in the winnowing process, leaving the flour as a light brown powder mainly made up of starch and gluten. To make it white, it goes through a process called "bolting." This involves passing it through a series of fine sieves that remove the coarser bits, resulting in fine white flour—the "fine firsts" of the corn dealer. However, the bolting process tends to strip the flour of its gluten since the coarser, darker bits contain a lot of that substance, while the lighter part is particularly rich in starch. Bran has a high amount of gluten, which explains why whole grain bread is much more nutritious than white bread; generally speaking, the whiter the bread, the less nourishment it has. Majendie demonstrated this by feeding a dog only white wheat bread for forty days, after which it died, while another dog fed on brown bread made with bran lived healthily. Therefore, the bolting process is more harmful than helpful; it's a prime example of how fashion can set a misguided standard. In ancient times, even up to the Emperors, no bolted flour was known. In many parts of Germany, the whole grain is used, and in no other place do people's digestive systems perform better. During famine years, when grain is scarce, using bolted flour is especially irresponsible since 18 to 20 percent of the nutrients are lost with the bran. Brown bread has gained popularity in recent years, and many doctors have had great success recommending it to people with weak digestion. The obsession with white bread has led to serious adulterations that harm public health. Potatoes are sometimes added for this purpose, but this is a relatively harmless trick, only diminishing the bread's nutritional value; however, bone dust and alum are also added, and those are definitely harmful.
1670. Bread-making is a very ancient art indeed. The Assyrians, Egyptians, and Greeks, used to make bread, in which oil, with aniseed and other spices, was an element; but this was unleavened. Every family used to prepare the bread for its own consumption, the trade of baking not having yet taken shape. It is said, that somewhere about the beginning of the thirtieth Olympiad, the slave of an archon, at Athens, made leavened bread by accident. He had left some wheaten dough in an earthen pan, and forgotten it; some days afterwards, he lighted upon it again, and found it turning sour. His first thought was to throw it away; but, his master coming up, he mixed this now acescent dough with some fresh dough, which he was working at. The bread thus produced, by the introduction of dough in which alcoholic fermentation had begun, was found delicious by the archon and his friends; and the slave, being summoned and catechised, told the secret. It spread all over Athens; and everybody wanting leavened bread at once, certain persons set up as bread-makers, or bakers. In a short time bread-baking became quite an art, and "Athenian bread" was quoted all over Greece as the best bread, just as the honey of Hyamettus was celebrated as the best honey.
1670. Bread-making is a really ancient skill. The Assyrians, Egyptians, and Greeks made bread, using oil, aniseed, and other spices, but it was unleavened. Each family used to make their own bread since the profession of baking hadn't been established yet. According to legend, around the beginning of the thirtieth Olympiad, a slave of an archon in Athens accidentally made leavened bread. He left some wheat dough in a clay pan and forgot about it. Days later, he found it had gone sour. At first, he thought about throwing it away, but when his master came by, he mixed the sour dough with some fresh dough he was working on. The resulting bread, thanks to the fermentation that had happened in the sour dough, was delicious to the archon and his friends. The slave was called in and asked about the secret. Word spread throughout Athens, and since everyone wanted leavened bread, some people started becoming bakers. Before long, bread-baking became a true art, and "Athenian bread" was known all over Greece as the best bread, just like the honey from Hyamettus was celebrated as the best honey.
1671. In our own times, and among civilized peoples, bread has become an article of food of the first necessity; and properly so, for it constitutes of itself a complete life-sustainer, the gluten, starch, and sugar, which it contains, representing azotized and hydro-carbonated nutrients, and combining the sustaining powers of the animal and vegetable kingdoms in one product.
1671. Nowadays, in our modern world and among civilized societies, bread has become a basic staple food; and rightly so, because it serves as a complete source of sustenance. The gluten, starch, and sugar found in bread provide essential nutrients, combining the nourishing benefits of both animal and plant sources in one product.
1672. WHEATEN BREAD.—The finest, wholesomest, and most savoury bread is made from wheaten flour. There are, of wheat, three leading qualities,— the soft, the medium, and the hard wheat; the last of which yields a kind of bread that is not so white as that made from soft wheat, but is richer in gluten, and, consequently, more nutritive.
1672. WHEATEN BREAD.—The best, healthiest, and tastiest bread is made from wheat flour. There are three main types of wheat—soft, medium, and hard; the hard wheat produces bread that isn’t as white as that made from soft wheat, but is richer in gluten and, therefore, more nutritious.
1673. RYE BREAD.—This comes next to wheaten bread: it is not so rich in gluten, but is said to keep fresh longer, and to have some laxative qualities.
1673. RYE BREAD.—This comes right after wheat bread: it isn't as rich in gluten, but it's said to stay fresh longer and has some laxative properties.
1674. BARLEY BREAD, INDIAN-CORN BREAD, &c.—Bread made from barley, maize, oats, rice, potatoes, &c. "rises" badly, because the grains in question contain but little gluten, which makes the bread heavy, close in texture, and difficult of digestion; in fact, corn-flour has to be added before panification can take place. In countries where wheat is scarce and maize abundant, the people make the latter a chief article of sustenance, when prepared in different forms.
1674. BARLEY BREAD, INDIAN-CORN BREAD, etc.—Bread made from barley, corn, oats, rice, potatoes, etc. "rises" poorly because these grains have very little gluten, resulting in bread that is heavy, dense, and hard to digest; in fact, corn flour needs to be added before it can be baked. In countries where wheat is hard to come by and corn is plentiful, people rely on corn as a main source of food, preparing it in various ways.
BREAD-MAKING.
1675. PANIFICATION, or bread-making, consists of the following processes, in the case of Wheaten Flour. Fifty or sixty per cent. of water is added to the flour, with the addition of some leavening matter, and, preferably, of yeast from malt and hops. All kinds of leavening matter have, however, been, and are still used in different parts of the world: in the East Indies, "toddy," which is a liquor that flows from the wounded cocoa-nut tree; and, in the West Indies, "dunder," or the refuse of the distillation of rum. The dough then undergoes the well-known process called kneading. The yeast produces fermentation, a process which may be thus described:—The dough reacting upon the leavening matter introduced, the starch of the flour is transformed into saccharine matter, the saccharine matter being afterwards changed into alcohol and carbonic acid. The dough must be well "bound," and yet allow the escape of the little bubbles of carbonic acid which accompany the fermentation, and which, in their passage, cause the numerous little holes which are seen in light bread.
1675. BREAD MAKING involves the following steps when using wheat flour. Fifty to sixty percent water is added to the flour, along with some leavening agent, ideally yeast from malt and hops. However, various leavening agents have been and are still used in different parts of the world: in the East Indies, "toddy," a beverage that comes from the tapped coconut tree; and in the West Indies, "dunder," which is the leftover material from rum distillation. The dough then goes through the familiar process known as kneading. The yeast creates fermentation, which can be described as follows: the dough interacts with the leavening agent, transforming the flour's starch into sugar, which is then converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The dough needs to be well "bound" while allowing the carbon dioxide bubbles produced during fermentation to escape, creating the many small holes seen in light bread.
1676. The yeast must be good and fresh, if the bread is to be digestible and nice. Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous fermentation, an acetous fermentation, which flavours the bread and makes it disagreeable. A poor thin yeast produces an imperfect fermentation, the result being a heavy unwholesome loaf.
1676. The yeast has to be fresh and good for the bread to be easy to digest and tasty. Stale yeast causes an acetic fermentation instead of a proper fermentation, which makes the bread taste unpleasant. Weak, thin yeast leads to incomplete fermentation, resulting in a heavy, unhealthy loaf.
1677. When the dough is well kneaded, it is left to stand for some time, and then, as soon as it begins to swell, it is divided into loaves; after which it is again left to stand, when it once more swells up, and manifests, for the last time, the symptoms of fermentation. It is then put into the oven, where the water contained in the dough is partly evaporated, and the loaves swell up again, while a yellow crust begins to form upon the surface. When the bread is sufficiently baked, the bottom crust is hard and resonant if struck with the finger, while the crumb is elastic, and rises again after being pressed down with the finger. The bread is, in all probability, baked sufficiently if, on opening the door of the oven, you are met by a cloud of steam which quickly passes away.
1677. Once the dough is properly kneaded, it’s left to rest for a while, and as soon as it starts to rise, it’s divided into loaves. Then, it’s allowed to sit again until it rises once more, showing the signs of fermentation for the last time. It’s then placed in the oven, where some of the water in the dough evaporates, causing the loaves to rise again, and a yellow crust starts to form on the surface. When the bread is baked enough, the bottom crust will be hard and sound resonant when tapped with a finger, while the inside is elastic, bouncing back after being pressed. The bread is likely done if, when you open the oven door, a cloud of steam rushes out quickly.
1678. One word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread and hot rolls. When bread is taken out of the oven, it is full of moisture; the starch is held together in masses, and the bread, instead of being crusted so as to expose each grain of starch to the saliva, actually prevents their digestion by being formed by the teeth into leathery poreless masses, which lie on the stomach like so many bullets. Bread should always be at least a day old before it is eaten; and, if properly made, and kept in a cool dry place, ought to be perfectly soft and palatable at the end of three or four days. Hot rolls, swimming in melted butter, and new bread, ought to be carefully shunned by everybody who has the slightest respect for that much-injured individual—the Stomach.
1678. A quick note about the unhealthiness of fresh bread and hot rolls. When bread comes out of the oven, it's full of moisture; the starch is clumped together, and instead of forming a crust that allows each grain of starch to mix with saliva, the bread turns into rubbery, dense clumps that sit in the stomach like suitcases. Bread should always be at least a day old before eating; and if made properly and stored in a cool dry place, it should still be soft and enjoyable after three or four days. Hot rolls drenched in melted butter and fresh bread should be avoided by anyone who cares about their stomach, which often gets a bad rap.
1679. AERATED BREAD.—It is not unknown to some of our readers that Dr. Dauglish, of Malvern, has recently patented a process for making bread "light" without the use of leaven. The ordinary process of bread-making by fermentation is tedious, and much labour of human hands is requisite in the kneading, in order that the dough may be thoroughly interpenetrated with the leaven. The new process impregnates the bread, by the application of machinery, with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air. Different opinions are expressed about the bread; but it is curious to note, that, as corn is now reaped by machinery, and dough is baked by machinery, the whole process of bread-making is probably in course of undergoing changes which will emancipate both the housewife and the professional baker from a large amount of labour.
1679. AERATED BREAD.—Many of our readers may know that Dr. Dauglish, from Malvern, has recently patented a method for making bread "light" without using leaven. The traditional bread-making process through fermentation is time-consuming, requiring significant manual labor for kneading so the dough can be well mixed with the leaven. The new method uses machinery to infuse the bread with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air. There are various opinions about this bread; however, it’s interesting to observe that just as corn is now harvested by machines and dough is baked with machinery, the entire bread-making process is likely undergoing changes that will free both homemakers and professional bakers from a lot of hard work.
1680. In the production of Aërated Bread, wheaten flour, water, salt, and carbonic acid gas (generated by proper machinery), are the only materials employed. We need not inform our readers that carbonic acid gas is the source of the effervescence, whether in common water coming from a depth, or in lemonade, or any aërated drink. Its action, in the new bread, takes the place of fermentation in the old.
1680. In making Aërated Bread, the only ingredients used are wheat flour, water, salt, and carbonic acid gas (produced by specialized machinery). We don't need to tell our readers that carbonic acid gas is what creates the fizz, whether in regular water from deep underground, lemonade, or any carbonated drink. In the new bread, its effect replaces fermentation from the traditional method.
1681. In the patent process, the dough is mixed in a great iron ball, inside which is a system of paddles, perpetually turning, and doing the kneading part of the business. Into this globe the flour is dropped till it is full, and then the common atmospheric air is pumped out, and the pure gas turned on. The gas is followed by the water, which has been aërated for the purpose, and then begins the churning or kneading part of the business.
1681. In the patent process, the dough is mixed in a large iron ball, which contains a system of paddles that continuously rotate and handle the kneading. The flour is poured into this globe until it’s full, then the regular air is pumped out, and pure gas is introduced. After that, the water, which has been aerated for this purpose, is added, and then the mixing or kneading begins.
1682. Of course, it is not long before we have the dough, and very "light" and nice it looks. This is caught in tins, and passed on to the floor of the oven, which is an endless floor, moving slowly through the fire. Done to a turn, the loaves emerge at the other end of the apartment,—and the Aërated Bread is made.
1682. Of course, it doesn't take long before we have the dough, and it looks very "light" and nice. This is put into tins and sent to the oven floor, which is an endless conveyor moving slowly through the heat. Once perfectly baked, the loaves come out at the other end of the space—and that's how Aërated Bread is made.
1683. It may be added, that it is a good plan to change one's baker from time to time, and so secure a change in the quality of the bread that is eaten.
1683. It might be a good idea to switch bakers now and then to ensure a variation in the quality of the bread you eat.
1684. MIXED BREADS.—Rye bread is hard of digestion, and requires longer and slower baking than wheaten bread. It is better when made with leaven of wheaten flour rather than yeast, and turns out lighter. It should not be eaten till two days old. It will keep a long time.
1684. MIXED BREADS.—Rye bread is tough to digest and needs to be baked longer and at a slower pace than wheat bread. It’s preferable to use leaven made from wheat flour instead of yeast, as it results in a lighter loaf. It’s best not to eat it until it’s two days old. It lasts a long time.
1685. A good bread may be made by mixing rye-flour, wheat-flour, and rice-paste in equal proportions; also by mixing rye, wheat, and barley. In Norway, it is said that they only bake their barley broad once a year, such is its "keeping" quality.
1685. You can make good bread by mixing equal parts of rye flour, wheat flour, and rice paste; or by combining rye, wheat, and barley. In Norway, it’s said that they only bake their barley bread once a year because of how well it lasts.
1686. Indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour (half with half) makes a nice bread; but it is not considered very digestible, though it keeps well.
1686. A mix of corn flour and wheat flour (equal parts) makes a nice bread, but it’s not considered very easy to digest, although it does store well.
1687. Rice cannot be made into bread, nor can potatoes; but one-third potato flour to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a tolerably good loaf.
1687. Rice can’t be turned into bread, and neither can potatoes; however, mixing one-third potato flour with three-fourths wheat flour creates a pretty good loaf.
1688. A very good bread, better than the ordinary sort, and of a delicious flavour, is said to be produced by adopting the following recipe:—Take ten parts of wheat-flour, five parts of potato-flour, one part of rice-paste; knead together, add the yeast, and bake as usual. This is, of course, cheaper than wheaten bread.
1688. A much better bread, tastier than the regular kind, is said to be made with the following recipe:—Take ten parts of wheat flour, five parts of potato flour, and one part of rice paste; mix everything together, add the yeast, and bake as usual. This is, of course, less expensive than wheat bread.
1689. Flour, when freshly ground, is too glutinous to make good bread, and should therefore not be used immediately, but should be kept dry for a few weeks, and stirred occasionally, until it becomes dry, and crumbles easily between the fingers.
1689. Freshly ground flour is too sticky to make good bread, so it shouldn’t be used right away. Instead, it should be kept dry for a few weeks and stirred occasionally until it dries out and crumbles easily between your fingers.
1690. Flour should be perfectly dry before being used for bread or cakes; if at all damp, the preparation is sure to be heavy. Before mixing it with the other ingredients, it is a good plan to place it for an hour or two before the fire, until it feels warm and dry.
1690. Flour should be completely dry before using it for bread or cakes; if it's even a little damp, the final product will be heavy. Before mixing it with the other ingredients, it's a good idea to warm it in front of the fire for an hour or two, until it feels warm and dry.
1691. Yeast from home-brewed beer is generally preferred to any other: it is very bitter, and, on that account, should be well washed, and put away until the thick mass settles. If it still continues bitter, the process should be repeated; and, before being used, all the water floating at the top must be poured off. German yeast is now very much used, and should be moistened, and thoroughly mixed with the milk or water with which the bread is to be made.
1691. Yeast from home-brewed beer is usually preferred over any others: it is quite bitter, so it should be thoroughly washed and set aside until the thick mass settles. If it remains bitter, the process should be repeated; and before use, all the water floating on top must be poured off. German yeast is now quite popular and should be moistened and thoroughly mixed with the milk or water that will be used to make the bread.
1692. The following observations are extracted from a valuable work on Bread-making, [Footnote: "The English Bread-Book." By Eliza Acton. London: Longman.] and will be found very useful to our readers:—
1692. The following observations are taken from a valuable work on bread-making, [Footnote: "The English Bread-Book." By Eliza Acton. London: Longman.] and will be very helpful to our readers:—
1693. The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmost cleanliness; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all the ingredients used for it; and, in addition to these, there must be attention and care through the whole process.
1693. The first thing you need to make good bread is to be extremely clean; next, all the ingredients must be fresh and of good quality; and, on top of that, you need to pay attention and care throughout the entire process.
1694. An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made, and to allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most common causes of failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, or which has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it.
1694. An almost sure way to ruin dough is to leave it half-made and let it get cold before finishing it. The other common reasons for failure are using yeast that's no longer fresh, or has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured on it.
1695. Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient time allowed for the dough to rise, will cause the bread to be heavy.
1695. Using too little yeast or not giving the dough enough time to rise will make the bread heavy.
1696. Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making the dough very hard, and letting it become quite, cold, particularly in winter.
1696. Dense bread will probably come from making the dough really tough and letting it get quite cold, especially in winter.
1697. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself, that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has reached the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be the consequence in warm weather, and bad bread in any. The goodness will also be endangered by placing it so near a fire as to make any part of it hot, instead of maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation.
1697. If you let either the sponge or the dough overwork, meaning if you neglect mixing and kneading when it’s at the right stage, you're likely to end up with sour bread in warm weather, and poor-quality bread in any case. The quality will also be at risk if you place it too close to a fire, causing any part of it to become hot instead of keeping it at the gentle, even heat needed for proper fermentation.
1698. MILK OR BUTTER.—Milk which is not perfectly sweet will not only injure the flavour of the bread, but, in sultry weather, will often cause it to be quite uneatable; yet either of them, if fresh and good, will materially improve its quality.
1698. MILK OR BUTTER.—Milk that isn't perfectly fresh will not only spoil the flavor of the bread, but in hot weather, it can even make it inedible; however, either milk or butter, if fresh and good, will significantly enhance its quality.
1699. To keep bread sweet and fresh, as soon as it is cold it should be put into a clean earthen pan, with a cover to it: this pan should be placed at a little distance from the ground, to allow a current of air to pass underneath. Some persons prefer keeping bread on clean wooden shelves, without being covered, that the crust may not soften. Stale bread may be freshened by warming it through in a gentle oven. Stale pastry, cakes, &c., may also be improved by this method.
1699. To keep bread sweet and fresh, once it cools down, it should be placed in a clean earthenware container with a lid. This container should be positioned a bit off the ground to allow air to circulate underneath. Some people prefer to keep bread on clean wooden shelves without a cover so that the crust doesn’t get soft. Stale bread can be revived by warming it gently in an oven. Stale pastries, cakes, etc., can also be improved using this method.
1700. The utensils required for making bread, on a moderate scale, are a kneading-trough or pan, sufficiently large that the dough may be kneaded freely without throwing the flour over the edges, and also to allow for its rising; a hair sieve for straining yeast, and one or two strong spoons.
1700. The tools needed for making bread in a reasonable amount are a kneading trough or bowl that's big enough for the dough to be kneaded without spilling flour everywhere, and also to allow for it to rise; a fine sieve for straining yeast; and one or two sturdy spoons.
1701. Yeast must always be good of its kind, and in a fitting state to produce ready and proper fermentation. Yeast of strong beer or ale produces more effect than that of milder kinds; and the fresher the yeast, the smaller the quantity will be required to raise the dough.
1701. Yeast must always be of good quality and in the right condition to create proper fermentation. Yeast from strong beer or ale works better than that from milder varieties; and the fresher the yeast, the less you'll need to make the dough rise.
1702. As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be rather quick, and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without hardening the outside. The oven door should not be opened after the bread is put in until the dough is set, or has become firm, as the cool air admitted will have an unfavourable effect on it.
1702. Generally, the oven for baking bread should be fairly hot, and the heat should be adjusted to allow it to thoroughly cook the dough without hardening the outside. The oven door should not be opened after the bread is placed inside until the dough has set or become firm, as the cool air that comes in will negatively affect it.
1703. Brick ovens are generally considered the best adapted for baking bread: these should be heated with wood faggots, and then swept and mopped out, to cleanse them for the reception of the bread. Iron ovens are more difficult to manage, being apt to burn the surface of the bread before the middle is baked. To remedy this, a few clean bricks should be set at the bottom of the oven, close together, to receive the tins of bread. In many modern stoves the ovens are so much improved that they bake admirably; and they can always be brought to the required temperature, when it is higher than is needed, by leaving the door open for a time.
1703. Brick ovens are generally seen as the best for baking bread: these should be heated with wooden bundles, then cleaned out with a broom and wiped down to prepare them for the bread. Iron ovens are trickier to use, often burning the surface of the bread before the inside is fully cooked. To fix this, a few clean bricks should be placed at the bottom of the oven, positioned closely together, to hold the bread tins. Many modern stoves have improved ovens that bake excellently; they can always be set to the needed temperature, and if it's too high, you can simply leave the door open for a while.
A FEW HINTS respecting the Making and Baking of CAKES.
A FEW TIPS on Making and Baking CAKES.
1704. Eggs should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks separated, and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so cause no waste. As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be very thoroughly whisked; they are generally sufficiently beaten when thick enough to carry the drop that falls from the whisk.
1704. Eggs should always be cracked into a cup, with the whites and yolks separated, and they should always be strained. By breaking the eggs this way, any bad ones can be easily discarded without ruining the good ones, preventing waste. Since eggs are used in place of yeast, they should be whipped thoroughly; they are usually beaten enough when they are thick enough to hold the drop that falls from the whisk.
1705. Loaf Sugar should be well pounded, and then sifted through a fine sieve.
1705. Loaf Sugar should be ground well and then sifted through a fine sieve.
1706. Currants should be nicely washed, picked, dried in a cloth, and then carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be left amongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire, to become thoroughly dry; as, if added damp to the other ingredients, cakes will be liable to be heavy.
1706. Currants should be well washed, picked, dried with a cloth, and then carefully checked to make sure there are no bits of grit or stone left among them. They should then be laid out on a dish in front of the fire to dry completely; if they're added while still damp to the other ingredients, the cakes may turn out heavy.
1707. Good Butter should always be used in the manufacture of cakes; and if beaten to a cream, it saves much time and labour to warm, but not melt, it before beating.
1707. Good Butter should always be used in making cakes; and if whipped to a cream, it saves a lot of time and effort to warm it, but not melt it, before mixing.
1708. Less butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixed with the other ingredients.
1708. You need fewer butter and eggs for cakes when you combine yeast with the other ingredients.
1709. The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large cakes. If the heat be not tolerably fierce, the batter will not rise. If the oven is too quick, and there is any danger of the cake burning or catching, put a sheet of clean paper over the top. Newspaper, or paper that has been printed on, should never be used for this purpose.
1709. The heat of the oven is really important, especially for large cakes. If the heat isn’t hot enough, the batter won’t rise. If the oven is too hot, and there’s a risk of the cake burning, place a clean sheet of paper over the top. Never use newspaper or any printed paper for this purpose.
1710. To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it; draw it quickly out, and if it looks in the least sticky, put the cake back, and close the oven door until the cake is done.
1710. To tell if a cake is fully baked, stick a clean knife into the center; pull it out quickly, and if it seems even slightly sticky, return the cake to the oven and close the door until it's done.
1711. Cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or jars, and in a dry place. Those made with yeast do not keep so long as those made without it.
1711. Cakes should be stored in sealed tin canisters or jars, and kept in a dry place. Cakes made with yeast don’t last as long as those made without it.
BISCUITS.
1712. Since the establishment of the large modern biscuit manufactories, biscuits have been produced both cheap and wholesome, in, comparatively speaking, endless variety. Their actual component parts are, perhaps, known only to the various makers; but there are several kinds of biscuits which have long been in use, that may here be advantageously described.
1712. Since the establishment of large modern biscuit factories, biscuits have been made both affordable and healthy, in, relatively speaking, endless variety. The actual ingredients are probably known only to the different producers; however, there are several types of biscuits that have been in use for a long time, which can be effectively described here.
1713. Biscuits belong to the class of unfermented bread, and are, perhaps, the most wholesome of that class. In cases where fermented bread does not agree with the human stomach, they may be recommended: in many instances they are considered lighter, and less liable to create acidity and flatulence. The name is derived from the French bis cuit, "twice-baked," because, originally, that was the mode of entirely depriving them of all moisture, to insure their keeping; but, although that process is no longer employed, the name is retained. The use of this kind of bread on land is pretty general, and some varieties are luxuries; but, at sea, biscuits are articles of the first necessity.
1713. Biscuits are a type of unfermented bread and are probably the healthiest option in that category. When fermented bread doesn’t sit well with the stomach, biscuits can be a good alternative; they are often seen as lighter and less likely to cause acidity and gas. The term comes from the French bis cuit, meaning "twice-baked," because that was originally how they were made to remove all moisture for better preservation. Although this method isn't used anymore, the name has stuck. On land, this type of bread is quite common, and some varieties are considered luxuries; however, at sea, biscuits are essentials.
1714. SEA, or SHIP BISCUITS, are made of wheat-flour from which only the coarsest bran has been separated. The dough is made up as stiff as it can be worked, and is then formed into shapes, and baked in an oven; after which, the biscuits are exposed in lofts over the oven until perfectly dry, to prevent them from becoming mouldy when stored.
1714. SEA, or SHIP BISCUITS, are made from wheat flour with only the coarsest bran removed. The dough is mixed to be as stiff as possible and is then shaped and baked in an oven. After baking, the biscuits are placed in lofts above the oven until they are completely dry to prevent mold when stored.
1715. CAPTAINS' BISCUITS are made in a similar manner, only of fine flour.
1715. CAPTAINS' BISCUITS are made in a similar way, but with fine flour.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXXV.
TO MAKE YEAST FOR BREAD.
1716. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 oz. of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 lb. of bruised malt, 1/2 pint of yeast.
1716. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 oz. of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 lb. of crushed malt, 0.5 pint of yeast.
Mode.—Boil the hops in the water for 20 minutes; let it stand for about 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. of bruised malt prepared as for brewing. Let the mixture stand covered till about lukewarm; then put in not quite 1/2 pint of yeast; keep it warm, and let it work 3 or 4 hours; then put it into small 1/2-pint bottles (ginger-beer bottles are the best for the purpose), cork them well, and tie them down. The yeast is now ready for use; it will keep good for a few weeks, and 1 bottle will be found sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour. When required for use, boil 3 lbs. of potatoes without salt, mash them in the same water in which they were boiled, and rub them through a colander. Stir in about 1/2 lb. of flour; then put in the yeast, pour it in the middle of the flour, and let it stand warm on the hearth all night, and in the morning let it be quite warm when it is kneaded. The bottles of yeast require very careful opening, as it is generally exceedingly ripe.
Mode.—Boil the hops in water for 20 minutes; let it sit for about 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. of crushed malt prepared for brewing. Let the mixture sit covered until it's lukewarm; then add almost 1/2 pint of yeast; keep it warm and let it activate for 3 or 4 hours; then transfer it into small 1/2-pint bottles (ginger-beer bottles work best), cork them tightly, and secure them. The yeast is now ready to use; it will stay good for a few weeks, and 1 bottle will be enough for 18 lbs. of flour. When ready to use, boil 3 lbs. of potatoes without salt, mash them in the water they were boiled in, and push them through a colander. Mix in about 1/2 lb. of flour; then add the yeast, pouring it into the center of the flour, and let it sit warm by the hearth all night. In the morning, ensure it’s warm when kneading. The yeast bottles need to be opened very carefully, as they are usually very active.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the hops and water, the yeast to work 3 or 4 hours.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the hops and water, and let the yeast work for 3 to 4 hours.
Sufficient.—1/2 pint sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour.
Sufficient.—1/2 pint is enough for 18 lbs. of flour.
KIRKLEATHAM YEAST.
1717. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of yeast.
1717. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 pint of yeast.
Mode.—Boil the hops and water for 20 minutes; strain, and mix with the liquid 1/2 lb. of flour and not quite 1/2 pint of yeast. Bottle it up, and tie the corks down. When wanted for use, boil potatoes according to the quantity of bread to be made (about 3 lbs. are sufficient for about a peck of flour); mash them, add to them 1/2 lb. of flour, and mix about 1/2 pint of the yeast with them; let this mixture stand all day, and lay the bread to rise the night before it is wanted.
Method.—Boil the hops and water for 20 minutes; strain, and combine with the liquid 1/2 lb. of flour and just under 1/2 pint of yeast. Bottle it up and secure the corks. When you're ready to use it, boil potatoes based on how much bread you plan to make (approximately 3 lbs. is enough for about a peck of flour); mash them, add 1/2 lb. of flour, and mix in about 1/2 pint of the yeast; let this mixture sit all day, and allow the bread to rise the night before you need it.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the hops and water.
Time.—20 minutes to boil the hops and water.
Sufficient.—1/2 pint of this yeast sufficient for a peck of flour, or rather more.
Sufficient.—1/2 pint of this yeast is enough for a peck of flour, or maybe a little more.
TO MAKE GOOD HOME-MADE BREAD.
(Miss Acton's Recipe.)
Miss Acton's Recipe
1718. INGREDIENTS.—1 quartern of flour, 1 large tablespoonful of solid brewer's yeast, or nearly 1 oz. of fresh German yeast, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 pint of warm milk-and-water.
1718. INGREDIENTS.—4 cups of flour, 1 large tablespoon of active dry yeast, or about 1 ounce of fresh German yeast, 1 to 1-1/2 pints of warm milk and water.
[Illustration: COTTAGE LOAF.]
[Illustration: Cottage Loaf.]
[Illustration: TIN BREAD.]
[Illustration: TIN BREAD.]
Mode.—Put the flour into a large earthenware bowl or deep pan; then, with a strong metal or wooden spoon, hollow out the middle; but do not clear it entirely away from the bottom of the pan, as, in that case, the sponge (or leaven, as it was formerly termed) would stick to it, which it ought not to do. Next take either a large tablespoonful of brewer's yeast which has been rendered solid by mixing it with plenty of cold water, and letting it afterwards stand to settle for a day and night; or nearly an ounce of German yeast; put it into a large basin, and proceed to mix it, so that it shall be as smooth as cream, with 3/4 pint of warm milk-and-water, or with water only; though even a very little milk will much improve the bread. Pour the yeast into the hole made in the flour, and stir into it as much of that which lies round it as will make a thick batter, in which there must be no lumps. Strew plenty of flour on the top; throw a thick clean cloth over, and set it where the air is warm; but do not place it upon the kitchen fender, for it will become too much heated there. Look at it from time to time: when it has been laid for nearly an hour, and when the yeast has risen and broken through the flour, so that bubbles appear in it, you will know that it is ready to be made up into dough. Then place the pan on a strong chair, or dresser, or table, of convenient height; pour into the sponge the remainder of the warm milk-and-water; stir into it as much of the flour as you can with the spoon; then wipe it out clean with your fingers, and lay it aside. Next take plenty of the remaining flour, throw it on the top of the leaven, and begin, with the knuckles of both hands, to knead it well. When the flour is nearly all kneaded in, begin to draw the edges of the dough towards the middle, in order to mix the whole thoroughly; and when it is free from flour and lumps and crumbs, and does not stick to the hands when touched, it will be done, and may again be covered with the cloth, and left to rise a second time. In 3/4 hour look at it, and should it have swollen very much, and begin to crack, it will be light enough to bake. Turn it then on to a paste-board or very clean dresser, and with a large sharp knife divide it in two; make it up quickly into loaves, and dispatch it to the oven: make one or two incisions across the tops of the loaves, as they will rise more easily if this be done. If baked in tins or pans, rub them with a tiny piece of butter laid on a piece of clean paper, to prevent the dough from sticking to them. All bread should be turned upside down, or on its side, as soon as it is drawn from the oven: if this be neglected, the under part of the loaves will become wet and blistered from the steam, which cannot then escape from them. To make the dough without setting a sponge, merely mix the yeast with the greater part of the warm milk-and-water, and wet up the whole of the flour at once after a little salt has been stirred in, proceeding exactly, in every other respect, as in the directions just given. As the dough will soften in the rising, it should be made quite firm at first, or it will be too lithe by the time it is ready for the oven.
Mode.—Put the flour into a large ceramic bowl or deep pan; then, using a sturdy metal or wooden spoon, make a well in the center, but don't clear it all the way to the bottom, as that would cause the sponge (or leaven, as it used to be called) to stick, which shouldn’t happen. Next, take a large spoonful of brewer's yeast that has been turned solid by mixing it with plenty of cold water and letting it settle for a day and night; or use nearly an ounce of German yeast. Place it in a large bowl and mix it until it’s as smooth as cream with 3/4 pint of warm milk and water, or just water; although a small amount of milk will greatly enhance the bread. Pour the yeast into the well made in the flour, and stir in enough of the surrounding flour to create a thick batter without lumps. Sprinkle plenty of flour on top; cover it with a thick clean cloth, and keep it in a warm place; but don’t place it on the kitchen fender, as it will get too hot there. Check on it occasionally: when it has been resting for nearly an hour and the yeast has risen and broken through the flour, creating bubbles, you’ll know it's ready to be turned into dough. Then, place the pan on a sturdy chair, dresser, or table of a comfortable height; pour the rest of the warm milk and water into the sponge; stir in as much of the flour as you can with the spoon; then clean it out with your fingers and set it aside. Next, take a good amount of the remaining flour, sprinkle it on top of the leaven, and use your knuckles to knead it well. Once the flour is nearly all incorporated, start pulling the edges of the dough toward the center to mix it thoroughly; when it’s free from flour, lumps, and crumbs, and doesn’t stick to your hands when you touch it, it's done. Cover it with the cloth again and let it rise for a second time. After about 3/4 hour, check on it; if it has puffed up a lot and started to crack, it’s light enough to bake. Turn it out onto a clean surface or cutting board, and use a large sharp knife to divide it in half; quickly shape it into loaves and get it into the oven: make one or two slashes across the tops of the loaves, as this will help them rise more easily. If you’re baking in tins or pans, rub a small piece of butter on some clean paper and use it to grease them to prevent sticking. All bread should be turned upside down or on its side as soon as it's taken out of the oven; if you don’t do this, the bottom of the loaves will become wet and blistered from steam that can't escape. To make the dough without setting a sponge, just mix the yeast with most of the warm milk and water, and incorporate all the flour at once after stirring in a bit of salt, following all other instructions exactly as given. Since the dough will soften while it rises, it should be firm to start with; otherwise, it will be too soft by the time it’s ready for the oven.
[Illustration: ITALIAN MILLET.]
[Illustration: ITALIAN MILLET.]
Time.—To be left to rise an hour the first time, 3/4 hour the second time; to be baked from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, or baked in one loaf from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—Let it rise for an hour the first time, then for 45 minutes the second time; bake it for 1 to 1-1/4 hours, or if it's in one loaf, bake it for 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
ITALIAN MILLET, or Great Indian Millet, is cultivated in Egypt and Nubia, where it is called dhourra, and is used as human food, as well as for the fermentation of beer. It will grow on poor soils, and is extremely productive. It has been introduced into Italy, where they make a coarse bread from it; and it is also employed in pastry and puddings: they also use it for feeding horses and domestic fowls. It is the largest variety, growing to the height of six feet; but it requires a warm climate, and will not ripen in this country. A yellow variety, called Golden Millet, is sold in the grocers' shops, for making puddings, and is very delicate and wholesome.
ITALIAN MILLET, or Great Indian Millet, is grown in Egypt and Nubia, where it's known as dhourra. It’s used for human food and for making beer. It can thrive in poor soils and is highly productive. It has been brought to Italy, where they make coarse bread from it, and it's also used in pastries and puddings. Additionally, it’s used to feed horses and farm birds. This variety is the largest, reaching up to six feet tall, but it needs a warm climate and won't ripen in this country. A yellow variety, known as Golden Millet, is available in grocery stores for making puddings and is quite delicate and nutritious.
TO MAKE A PECK OF GOOD BREAD.
1719. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of potatoes, 6 pints of cold water, 1/2 pint of good yeast, a peck of flour, 2 oz. of salt.
1719. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of potatoes, 6 pints of cold water, 1/2 pint of good yeast, a peck of flour, 2 oz. of salt.
Mode.—Peel and boil the potatoes; beat them to a cream while warm; then add 1 pint of cold water, strain through a colander, and add to it 1/2 pint of good yeast, which should have been put in water over-night, to take off its bitterness. Stir all well together with a wooden spoon, and pour the mixture into the centre of the flour; mix it to the substance of cream, cover it over closely, and let it remain near the fire for an hour; then add the 5 pints of water, milk-warm, with 2 oz. of salt; pour this in, and mix the whole to a nice light dough. Let it remain for about 2 hours; then make it into 7 loaves, and bake for about 1-1/2 hour in a good oven. When baked, the bread should weigh nearly 20 lbs.
Method.—Peel and boil the potatoes; mash them into a creamy texture while they're still warm; then add 1 pint of cold water, strain through a colander, and stir in 1/2 pint of good yeast that has been soaked overnight in water to remove its bitterness. Mix everything well with a wooden spoon, and pour the mixture into the center of the flour; stir it to a creamy consistency, cover it tightly, and let it sit near the fire for an hour; then add 5 pints of milk-warm water along with 2 oz. of salt; pour this in and mix everything into a nice light dough. Let it rest for about 2 hours; then shape it into 7 loaves, and bake for about 1-1/2 hours in a good oven. Once baked, the bread should weigh nearly 20 lbs.
Time.—About 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—About 1.5 hours.
THE RED VARIETIES OF WHEAT are generally hardier and more easily grown than the white sorts, and, although of less value to the miller, they are fully more profitable to the grower, in consequence of the better crops which they produce. Another advantage the red wheats possess is their comparative immunity from the attacks of mildew and fly. The best English wheat comes from the counties of Kent and Essex; the qualities under these heads always bearing a higher price than others, as will be seen by the periodical lists in the journals.
THE RED VARIETIES OF WHEAT are generally hardier and easier to grow than the white types. Although they are less valuable to millers, they are definitely more profitable for growers because of the better yields they provide. Another benefit of red wheat is its relative resistance to mildew and pests. The best English wheat comes from the counties of Kent and Essex, and the quality of wheat from these areas consistently commands a higher price than others, as shown in the regular listings in the journals.
RICE BREAD.
1720. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of rice allow 4 lbs. of wheat flour, nearly 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 1/4 oz. of salt. Mode.—Boil the rice in water until it is quite tender; pour off the water, and put the rice, before it is cold, to the flour. Mix these well together with the yeast, salt, and sufficient warm water to make the whole into a smooth dough; let it rise by the side of the fire, then form it into loaves, and bake them from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, according to their size. If the rice is boiled in milk instead of water, it makes very delicious bread or cakes. When boiled in this manner, it may be mixed with the flour without straining the liquid from it. Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours.
1720. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of rice, use 4 pounds of wheat flour, about 3 tablespoons of yeast, and 1/4 oz. of salt. Mode.—Boil the rice in water until it's tender; drain the water, and mix the warm rice with the flour before it cools down. Combine these with the yeast, salt, and enough warm water to create a smooth dough. Allow it to rise near the fire, then shape it into loaves and bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, depending on their size. If you boil the rice in milk instead of water, it results in really delicious bread or cakes. When using milk, you can mix it with the flour without draining off the liquid. Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours.
INDIAN-CORN-FLOUR BREAD.
1721. INGREDIENTS.—To 4 lbs. of flour allow 2 lbs. of Indian-corn flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 3 pints of warm water, 1/4 oz. of salt. Mode.—Mix the two flours well together, with the salt; make a hole in the centre, and stir the yeast up well with 1/2 pint of the warm water; put this into the middle of the flour, and mix enough of it with the yeast to make a thin batter; throw a little flour over the surface of this batter, cover the whole with a thick cloth, and set it to rise in a warm place. When the batter has nicely risen, work the whole to a nice smooth dough, adding the water as required; knead it well, and mould the dough into loaves; let them rise for nearly 1/2 hour, then put them into a well-heated oven. If made into 2 loaves, they will require from 1-1/2 to 2 hours baking.
1721. INGREDIENTS.—For 4 lbs. of flour, use 2 lbs. of cornmeal, 2 tablespoons of yeast, 3 pints of warm water, and 1/4 oz. of salt. Mode.—Combine the two flours thoroughly with the salt; create a well in the center and mix the yeast with 1/2 pint of warm water until it's dissolved; pour this mixture into the center of the flour and stir in just enough flour to make a thin batter; sprinkle a little flour over the batter's surface, cover it with a thick cloth, and let it rise in a warm spot. Once the batter has risen nicely, knead it into a smooth dough, adding water as needed; shape the dough into loaves; let them rise for about 30 minutes, then place them in a preheated oven. If divided into 2 loaves, they will need to bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Duration.—1.5 to 2 hours.
[Illustration: MAIZE PLANT.]
[Illustration: CORN PLANT.]
[Illustration: EAR OF MAIZE.]
[Illustration: CORN EAR.]
MAIZE.—Next to wheat and rice, maize is the grain most used in the nourishment of man. In Asia, Africa, and America, it is the principal daily food of a large portion of the population, especially of the colonists. In some of the provinces of France, too, it is consumed in large quantities. There are eight varieties of the maize; the most productive is the maize of Cusco. The flour of maize is yellow, and it contains an oily matter, which, when fresh, gives it an agreeable flavour and odour; but the action of the air on it soon develops rancidity. If carried any distance, it should be stored away in air-tight vessels. An excellent soup is prepared with meat and maize-flour. The inhabitants of some countries, where wheat is scarce, make, with maize and water, or milk and salt, a kind of biscuit, which is pleasant in taste, but indigestible. Some of the preparations of maize-flour are very good, and, when partaken in moderation, suitable food for almost everybody.
MAIZE.—After wheat and rice, maize is the grain most commonly used for human nutrition. In Asia, Africa, and America, it serves as the main daily food for a large part of the population, especially among colonists. In some regions of France, it is also consumed in significant amounts. There are eight varieties of maize; the most productive one comes from Cusco. The flour made from maize is yellow and contains an oily substance that gives it a pleasant flavor and aroma when fresh; however, exposure to air can cause it to become rancid quickly. If transported over any distance, it should be kept in airtight containers. An excellent soup is made with meat and maize flour. In some countries where wheat is scarce, people make a type of biscuit using maize, water, or milk and salt, which is tasty but hard to digest. Some preparations of maize flour are very good and, when eaten in moderation, can be suitable food for almost everyone.
SODA BREAD.
1722. INGREDIENTS.—To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 1 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold milk.
1722. INGREDIENTS.—For every 2 lbs. of flour, use 1 teaspoon of tartaric acid, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, and 2 cups of cold milk.
Mode.—Let the tartaric acid and salt be reduced to the finest possible powder; then mix them well with the flour. Dissolve the soda in the milk, and pour it several times from one basin to another, before adding it to the flour. Work the whole quickly into a light dough, divide it into 2 loaves, and put them into a well-heated oven immediately, and bake for an hour. Sour milk or buttermilk may be used, but then a little less acid will be needed.
Mode.—Grind the tartaric acid and salt into the finest powder; then mix them thoroughly with the flour. Dissolve the soda in the milk and pour it back and forth between two bowls several times before adding it to the flour. Quickly work everything into a light dough, divide it into 2 loaves, and place them in a preheated oven right away, baking for an hour. You can use sour milk or buttermilk, but you'll need a bit less acid in that case.
Time.—1 hour.
Duration.—1 hour.
POLISH AND POMERANIAN WHEAT are accounted by authorities most excellent. Large raft-like barges convey this grain down the rivers, from the interior of the country to the seaports. This corn is described as being white, hard, and thin-skinned; and it yields a large quantity of flour, having a small proportion of bran.
POLISH AND POMERANIAN WHEAT are regarded by experts as top quality. Huge, raft-like barges transport this grain down the rivers, from the heart of the country to the seaports. This grain is described as white, hard, and thin-skinned, and it produces a large amount of flour with a small amount of bran.
EXCELLENT ROLLS.
1723. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 1 oz. of butter, 1/4 pint of milk, 1 large teaspoonful of yeast, a little salt.
1723. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 1 ounce of butter, 1/4 pint of milk, 1 large teaspoon of yeast, and a pinch of salt.
[Illustration: ROLLS.]
[Illustration: ROLLS.]
Mode.—Warm the butter in the milk, add to it the yeast and salt, and mix these ingredients well together. Put the flour into a pan, stir in the above ingredients, and let the dough rise, covered in a warm place. Knead it well, make it into rolls, let them rise again for a few minutes, and bake in a quick oven. Richer rolls may be made by adding 1 or 2 eggs and a larger proportion of butter, and their appearance improved by brushing the tops over with yolk of egg or a little milk.
Mode.—Melt the butter in the milk, then mix in the yeast and salt thoroughly. Pour the flour into a bowl, stir in the mixture, and let the dough rise covered in a warm spot. Knead it well, shape it into rolls, let them rise again for a few minutes, and bake in a hot oven. You can make richer rolls by adding 1 or 2 eggs and using more butter, and you can enhance their appearance by brushing the tops with egg yolk or a bit of milk.
Time—1 lb. of flour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 minutes.
Time—1 lb. of flour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 minutes.
HOT ROLLS.
1724. This dish, although very unwholesome and indigestible, is nevertheless a great favourite, and eaten by many persons. As soon as the rolls come from the baker's, they should be put into the oven, which, in the early part of the morning, is sure not to be very hot; and the rolls must not be buttered until wanted. When they are quite hot, divide them lengthwise into three; put some thin flakes of good butter between the slices, press the rolls together, and put them in the oven for a minute or two, but not longer, or the butter would oil; take them out of the oven, spread the butter equally over, divide the rolls in half, and put them on to a very hot clean dish, and send them instantly to table.
1724. This dish, while quite unhealthy and hard to digest, is still a popular choice enjoyed by many people. Once the rolls come from the bakery, they should be placed in the oven, which, in the early morning, is usually not very hot; and the rolls shouldn't be buttered until they're needed. When they're hot, slice them lengthwise into thirds; add some thin flakes of good butter between the slices, press the rolls together, and put them back in the oven for a minute or two, but not longer, or the butter will melt. Remove them from the oven, spread the butter evenly over, cut the rolls in half, place them on a very hot clean dish, and serve them immediately.
TO MAKE DRY TOAST.
1725. To make dry toast properly, a great deal of attention is required; much more, indeed, than people generally suppose. Never use new bread for making any kind of toast, as it eats heavy, and, besides, is very extravagant. Procure a loaf of household bread about two days old; cut off as many slices as may be required, not quite 1/4 inch in thickness; trim off the crusts and ragged edges, put the bread on a toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire. Move it backwards and forwards until the bread is nicely coloured; then turn it and toast the other side, and do not place it so near the fire that it blackens. Dry toast should be more gradually made than buttered toast, as its great beauty consists in its crispness, and this cannot be attained unless the process is slow and the bread is allowed gradually to colour. It should never be made long before it is wanted, as it soon becomes tough, unless placed on the fender in front of the fire. As soon as each piece is ready, it should be put into a rack, or stood upon its edges, and sent quickly to table.
1725. To make dry toast properly, you need to pay a lot of attention; much more than people usually think. Never use fresh bread for making any kind of toast, as it feels heavy and, on top of that, is quite wasteful. Get a loaf of household bread that's about two days old; cut off as many slices as you need, not quite 1/4 inch thick; trim off the crusts and uneven edges, place the bread on a toasting fork, and hold it in front of a nice, clear fire. Move it back and forth until the bread is nicely colored; then turn it over and toast the other side, but don’t hold it so close to the fire that it burns. Dry toast should be made more gradually than buttered toast, since its main appeal lies in its crispness, which can only be achieved if you take your time and let the bread color slowly. It should never be made long before you plan to serve it, as it quickly becomes tough unless you put it on the fender in front of the fire. As soon as each piece is ready, it should be placed in a rack or stood on its edges and sent quickly to the table.
TO MAKE HOT BUTTERED TOAST.
1726. A loaf of household bread about two days old answers for making toast better than cottage bread, the latter not being a good shape, and too crusty for the purpose. Cut as many nice even slices as may be required, rather more than 1/4 inch in thickness, and toast them before a very bright fire, without allowing the bread to blacken, which spoils the appearance and flavour of all toast. When of a nice colour on both sides, put it on a hot plate; divide some good butter into small pieces, place them on the toast, set this before the fire, and when the butter is just beginning to melt, spread it lightly over the toast. Trim off the crust and ragged edges, divide each round into 4 pieces, and send the toast quickly to table. Some persons cut the slices of toast across from corner to corner, so making the pieces of a three-cornered shape. Soyer recommends that each slice should be cut into pieces as soon as it is buttered, and when all are ready, that they should be piled lightly on the dish they are intended to be served on. He says that by cutting through 4 or 5 slices at a time, all the butter is squeezed out of the upper ones, while the bottom one is swimming in fat liquid. It is highly essential to use good butter for making this dish.
1726. A loaf of household bread that's about two days old is better for making toast than cottage bread because the latter isn't shaped well and is too crusty for this purpose. Slice it evenly into pieces a bit thicker than 1/4 inch, and toast them in front of a very bright fire, making sure not to let the bread blacken, as that ruins the look and taste of the toast. When it’s nicely colored on both sides, place it on a hot plate. Cut some good butter into small pieces and place them on the toast. Put this in front of the fire, and when the butter just starts to melt, spread it lightly over the toast. Trim off the crusts and uneven edges, divide each round into 4 pieces, and serve the toast quickly. Some people cut the toast slices diagonally from corner to corner to create triangular pieces. Soyer suggests cutting each slice into pieces as soon as it’s buttered, and once all are ready, they should be piled lightly on the dish they will be served on. He notes that cutting through 4 or 5 slices at once can squeeze all the butter out of the top ones, leaving the bottom slice drowning in liquid fat. It’s very important to use good butter for this dish.
MUFFINS.
1727. INGREDIENTS.—To every quart of milk allow 1-1/2 oz. of German yeast, a little salt; flour.
1727. INGREDIENTS.—For every quart of milk, use 1-1/2 oz. of German yeast, a pinch of salt, and some flour.
[Illustration: MUFFINS.]
[Illustration: MUFFINS.]
Mode.—Warm the milk, add to it the yeast, and mix these well together; put them into a pan, and stir in sufficient flour to make the whole into a dough of rather a soft consistence; cover it over with a cloth, and place it in a warm place to rise, and, when light and nicely risen, divide the dough into pieces, and round them to the proper shape with the hands; place them, in a layer of flour about two inches thick, on wooden trays, and let them rise again; when this is effected, they each will exhibit a semi-globular shape. Then place them carefully on a hot-plate or stove, and bake them until they are slightly browned, turning them when they are done on one side. Muffins are not easily made, and are more generally purchased than manufactured at home. To toast them, divide the edge of the muffin all round, by pulling it open, to the depth of about an inch, with the fingers. Put it on a toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire until one side is nicely browned, but not burnt; turn, and toast it on the other. Do not toast them too quickly, as, if this is done, the middle of the muffin will not be warmed through. When done, divide them by pulling them open; butter them slightly on both sides, put them together again, and cut them into halves: when sufficient are toasted and buttered, pile them on a very hot dish, and send them very quickly to table.
Mode.—Warm the milk, add the yeast, and mix them well together; pour them into a bowl, and stir in enough flour to create a soft dough. Cover it with a cloth and place it in a warm spot to rise. Once it’s light and nicely risen, divide the dough into pieces and shape them into rounds with your hands. Lay them in a layer of flour about two inches thick on wooden trays, and let them rise again; they will each take on a semi-globular shape. Then carefully place them on a hot plate or stove and bake until they are slightly browned, turning them when one side is done. Muffins aren’t easy to make and are more often bought than made at home. To toast them, pull apart the edge of the muffin all around about an inch deep with your fingers. Put it on a toasting fork and hold it before a clear fire until one side is nicely browned, but not burnt; then turn and toast the other side. Don’t toast them too quickly; if you do, the middle of the muffin won’t warm through. When done, pull them apart; butter both sides lightly, put them back together, and cut them in half. Once you have enough toasted and buttered, stack them on a very hot dish, and serve them to the table quickly.
Time.—From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to bake them.
Time.—It takes 20 to 30 minutes to bake them.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 muffin to each person.
Sufficient.—Give 1 muffin to each person.
CRUMPETS.
[Illustration: CRUMPETS.]
[Illustration: Crumpets.]
1728. These are made in the same manner as muffins; only, in making the mixture, let it be more like batter than dough. Let it rise for about 1/2 hour; pour it into iron rings, which should be ready on a hot-plate; bake them, and when one side appears done, turn them quickly on the other. To toast them, have ready a very bright clear fire; put the crumpet on a toasting-fork, and hold it before the fire, not too close, until it is nicely brown on one side, but do not allow it to blacken. Turn it, and brown the other side; then spread it with good butter, cut it in half, and, when all are done, pile them on a hot dish, and send them quickly to table. Muffins and crumpets should always be served on separate dishes, and both toasted and served as expeditiously as possible.
1728. These are made in the same way as muffins; just make the mixture more like batter than dough. Let it rise for about 30 minutes; pour it into iron rings that should be ready on a hot plate; bake them, and when one side looks done, quickly flip them to the other side. To toast them, have a very bright clear fire ready; put the crumpet on a toasting fork and hold it before the fire, not too close, until it is nicely brown on one side, but don’t let it burn. Turn it and brown the other side; then spread it with good butter, cut it in half, and when all are done, stack them on a hot dish, and send them quickly to the table. Muffins and crumpets should always be served on separate dishes, and both toasted and served as quickly as possible.
Time.—From 10 to 15 minutes to bake them.
Time.—Bake them for 10 to 15 minutes.
Sufficient.—Allow 2 crumpets to each person.
Sufficient.—Give 2 crumpets to each person.
PLAIN BUNS.
1729. INGREDIENTS.—To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 gill of yeast, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of butter, warm milk.
1729. INGREDIENTS.—For every 2 lbs. of flour, use 6 oz. of brown sugar, 1/2 gill of yeast, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 lb. of butter, and warm milk.
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin, mix the sugar well with it, make a hole in the centre, and stir in the yeast and milk (which should be lukewarm), with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream. Cover the basin over with a cloth, and let the sponge rise in a warm place, which will be accomplished in about 1-1/2 hour. Melt the butter, but do not allow it to oil; stir it into the other ingredients, with enough warm milk to make the whole into a soft dough; then mould it into buns about the size of an egg; lay them in rows quite 3 inches apart; set them again in a warm place, until they have risen to double their size; then put them into a good brisk oven, and just before they are done, wash them over with a little milk. From 15 to 20 minutes will be required to bake them nicely. These buns may be varied by adding a few currants, candied peel, or caraway seeds to the other ingredients; and the above mixture answers for hot cross buns, by putting in a little ground allspice; and by pressing a tin mould in the form of a cross in the centre of the bun.
Mode.—Put the flour in a bowl, mix in the sugar, then make a well in the center and stir in the lukewarm yeast and milk, adding just enough flour to make it the consistency of cream. Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the mixture rise in a warm spot for about 1.5 hours. Melt the butter, being careful not to let it get oily; stir it into the other ingredients along with enough warm milk to form a soft dough. Shape the dough into buns about the size of an egg and place them in rows, leaving about 3 inches between each. Let them rise again in a warm place until they’ve doubled in size. Then bake them in a hot oven, and just before they finish baking, brush them with a little milk. They will need about 15 to 20 minutes to bake properly. You can customize these buns by adding some currants, candied peel, or caraway seeds to the mixture. For hot cross buns, include a bit of ground allspice and press a tin mold shaped like a cross into the center of each bun.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1d. each.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1 penny each.
Sufficient to make 18 buns.
Enough to make 18 buns.
TO MAKE GOOD PLAIN BUNS.
1730. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of good butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 egg, nearly 1/4 pint of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a few drops of essence of lemon.
1730. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of good butter, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 egg, almost 1/4 pint of milk, 2 small teaspoons of baking powder, a few drops of lemon extract.
Mode.—Warm the butter, without oiling it; beat it with a wooden spoon; stir the flour in gradually with the sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. Make the milk lukewarm, beat up with it the yolk of the egg and the essence of lemon, and stir these to the flour, &c. Add the baking-powder, beat the dough well for about 10 minutes, divide it into 24 pieces, put them into buttered tins or cups, and bake in a brisk oven from 20 to 30 minutes.
Mode.—Heat the butter without letting it sizzle; mix it with a wooden spoon; gradually stir in the flour and sugar, combining everything well. Warm the milk, beat the egg yolk and lemon extract into it, and then mix these into the flour mixture, etc. Add the baking powder, knead the dough well for about 10 minutes, divide it into 24 portions, place them in buttered tins or cups, and bake in a hot oven for 20 to 30 minutes.
Time.—20 to 30 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time: 20 to 30 minutes. Average cost: 1s.
Sufficient to make 12 buns. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to make 12 buns. Good at any time.
LIGHT BUNS.
[Illustration: BUNS.]
[Illustration: Buns.]
1731. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, 1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of loaf sugar, 1/4 lb. of currants or raisins,—when liked, a few caraway seeds, 1/2 pint of cold new milk, 1 egg.
1731. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 teaspoon of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda, 1 lb. of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of granulated sugar, 1/4 lb. of currants or raisins—optional, a few caraway seeds, 1/2 pint of cold fresh milk, 1 egg.
Mode.—Rub the tartaric acid, soda, and flour all together through a hair sieve; work the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and caraway seeds, when the flavour of them latter is liked. Mix all these ingredients well together; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and pour in the milk, mixed with the egg, which should be well beaten; mix quickly, and set the dough, with a fork, on baking-tins, and bake the buns for about 20 minutes. This mixture makes a very good cake, and if put into a tin, should be baked 1-1/2 hour. The same quantity of flour, soda, and tartaric acid, with 1/2 pint of milk and a little salt, will make either bread or teacakes, if wanted quickly.
Mode.—Sift the tartaric acid, baking soda, and flour together through a fine mesh strainer; blend the butter into the flour; then add the sugar, currants, and caraway seeds if you enjoy the taste of them. Mix all of these ingredients thoroughly; create a well in the center of the flour, and pour in the milk combined with the beaten egg; stir quickly, and use a fork to place the dough onto baking sheets, baking the buns for about 20 minutes. This mixture makes a delicious cake, and if poured into a tin, should be baked for 1-1/2 hours. The same amounts of flour, soda, and tartaric acid with 1/2 pint of milk and a pinch of salt can quickly create either bread or tea cakes.
Time.—20 minutes for the buns; if made into a cake, 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—20 minutes for the buns; if made into a cake, 1.5 hours.
Sufficient to make about 12 buns.
Enough to make about 12 buns.
VICTORIA BUNS.
1732. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 egg, 1-1/2 oz. of ground rice, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel; flour.
1732. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of powdered loaf sugar, 1 egg, 1-1/2 oz. of ground rice, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel; flour.
Mode.—Whisk the egg, stir in the sugar, and beat these ingredients well together; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the ground rice, currants, and candied peel, and as much flour as will make it of such a consistency that it may be rolled into 7 or 8 balls. Put these on to a buttered tin, and bake them from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. They should be put into the oven immediately, or they will become heavy; and the oven should be tolerably brisk.
Mode.—Whisk the egg, mix in the sugar, and blend these ingredients well together; cream the butter, then stir in the ground rice, currants, and candied peel, along with enough flour to make a dough that can be shaped into 7 or 8 balls. Place these on a greased baking tray and bake them for about 30 to 45 minutes. They should go into the oven right away, or they will become dense; and the oven should be reasonably hot.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 buns. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to make 7 or 8 buns. Available at any time.
ITALIAN RUSKS.
1733. A stale Savoy or lemon cake may be converted into very good rusks in the following manner. Cut the cake into slices, divide each slice in two; put them on a baking-sheet, in a slow oven, and when they are of a nice brown and quite hard, they are done. They should be kept in a closed tin canister in a dry place, to preserve their crispness.
1733. A stale Savoy or lemon cake can be turned into really good rusks like this. Cut the cake into slices, then split each slice in half. Place them on a baking sheet in a low oven, and when they are a nice brown and completely hard, they're done. Keep them in a closed tin container in a dry place to maintain their crispness.
[Illustration: PANNICLED MILLET.]
[Illustration: PANICKED MILLET.]
PANNICLED MILLET.—This is the smallest-seeded of the corn-plants, being a true grass; but the number of the seeds in each ear makes up for their size. It grows in sandy soils that will not do for the cultivation of many other kinds of grain, and forms the chief sustenance in the arid districts of Arabia, Syria, Nubia, and parts of India. It is not cultivated in England, being principally confined to the East. The nations who make use of it grind it, in the primitive manner, between two stones, and make it into a diet which, cannot be properly called bread, but rather a kind of soft thin cake half-baked. When we take into account that the Arabians are fond of lizards and locusts as articles of food, their cuisine, altogether, is scarcely a tempting one.
PANNICLED MILLET.—This is the smallest-seeded corn plant, actually a true grass; however, the high number of seeds in each ear compensates for their size. It thrives in sandy soils that aren't suitable for growing many other grains and serves as the main food source in the dry regions of Arabia, Syria, Nubia, and parts of India. It isn't grown in England, mainly found in the East. The people who use it grind it in a traditional way between two stones, turning it into a diet that can’t really be called bread but is more like a kind of soft, thin, half-baked cake. Considering that Arabians enjoy eating lizards and locusts, their overall cuisine isn't very enticing.
TO MAKE RUSKS.
(Suffolk Recipe.)
Suffolk Recipe
1734. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter, 1/4 pint of milk, 2 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of yeast.
1734. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 2 ounces of butter, 1/4 pint of milk, 2 ounces of granulated sugar, 3 eggs, and 1 tablespoon of yeast.
[Illustration: RUSKS.]
[Illustration: RUSKS.]
Mode.—Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and keep shaking it round until the latter is melted. Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, mix these well together, and beat the eggs. Stir them with the yeast to the milk and butter, and with this liquid work the flour into a smooth dough. Cover a cloth over the basin, and leave the dough to rise by the side of the fire; then knead it, and divide it into 12 pieces; place them in a brisk oven, and bake for about 20 minutes. Take the rusks out, break them in half, and then set them in the oven to get crisp on the other side. When cold, they should be put into tin canisters to keep them dry; and, if intended for the cheese course, the sifted sugar should be omitted.
Mode.—Put the milk and butter in a saucepan and keep stirring until the butter melts. In a bowl, combine the flour and sugar, mixing them well, and beat the eggs. Mix the eggs with the yeast into the milk and butter, and then gradually add the flour to create a smooth dough. Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rise by the fire; then knead it and divide it into 12 pieces. Place them in a hot oven and bake for about 20 minutes. Once baked, take the rusks out, break them in half, and put them back in the oven to crisp up on the other side. After they cool, store them in tin containers to keep them dry; and if you're planning to serve them with cheese, just leave out the sifted sugar.
Time.—20 minutes to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to render them crisp after being divided.
Time.—20 minutes to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to make them crispy after being cut.
Average cost, 8d.
Average cost, 8d.
Sufficient to make 2 dozen rusks. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to make 2 dozen rusks. Appropriate at any time.
ALMOND ICING FOR CAKES.
1735. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar allow 1 lb. of sweet almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, a little rose-water.
1735. INGREDIENTS.—For every lb. of finely ground loaf sugar, use 1 lb. of sweet almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, and a bit of rose water.
Mode.—Blanch the almonds, and pound them (a few at a time) in a mortar to a paste, adding a little rose-water to facilitate the operation. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; mix them with the pounded almonds, stir in the sugar, and beat altogether. When the cake is sufficiently baked, lay on the almond icing, and put it into the oven to dry. Before laying this preparation on the cake, great care must be taken that it is nice and smooth, which is easily accomplished by well beating the mixture.
Mode.—Blanch the almonds, then grind them (a few at a time) in a mortar until they form a paste, adding a little rose water to help. Whisk the egg whites until they are very frothy; combine them with the ground almonds, mix in the sugar, and beat everything together. Once the cake is baked enough, spread the almond icing over it, and put it back in the oven to dry. Before spreading this mixture on the cake, make sure it is nice and smooth, which can be easily achieved by beating the mixture well.
SUGAR ICING FOR CAKES.
1736. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of loaf sugar allow the whites of 4 eggs, 1 oz. of fine starch.
1736. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of granulated sugar, use the whites of 4 eggs and 1 ounce of fine starch.
Mode.—Beat the eggs to a strong froth, and gradually sift in the sugar, which should be reduced to the finest possible powder, and gradually add the starch, also finely powdered. Beat the mixture well until the sugar is smooth; then with a spoon or broad knife lay the icing equally over the cakes. These should then be placed in a very cool oven, and the icing allowed to dry and harden, but not to colour. The icing may be coloured with strawberry or currant-juice, or with prepared cochineal. If it be put on the cakes as soon as they are withdrawn from the oven, it will become firm and hard by the time the cakes are cold. On very rich cakes, such as wedding, christening cakes, &c., a layer of almond icing, No. 1735, is usually spread over the top, and over that the white icing as described. All iced cakes should be kept in a very dry place.
Mode.—Beat the eggs until they're very frothy, then gradually sift in the sugar, which should be ground to the finest powder possible, and slowly add the starch, also finely ground. Mix the batter well until the sugar is smooth; then, with a spoon or a wide knife, spread the icing evenly over the cakes. Place them in a very cool oven and let the icing dry and harden without browning. The icing can be colored with strawberry or currant juice, or with prepared cochineal. If you apply it to the cakes right after they come out of the oven, it will become firm and hard by the time the cakes cool down. For very rich cakes, like wedding and christening cakes, a layer of almond icing, No. 1735, is typically spread on top, followed by the white icing as described. All iced cakes should be stored in a very dry place.
BISCUIT POWDER, generally used for Infants' Food.
BISCUIT POWDER, typically used for baby food.
1737. This powder may be purchased in tin canisters, and may also be prepared at home. Dry the biscuits well in a slow oven; roll them and grind them with a rolling-pin on a clean board, until they are reduced to powder; sift it through a close hair sieve, and it is fit for use. It should be kept in well-covered tins, and in a dry place.
1737. You can buy this powder in tin canisters, or you can make it at home. First, dry the biscuits thoroughly in a low oven; then roll and grind them with a rolling pin on a clean surface until they turn to powder. Sift it through a fine sieve, and it's ready to use. Keep it stored in tightly sealed tins in a dry place.
ARROWROOT BISCUITS OR DROPS.
1738. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar.
1738. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 1/2 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; whisk the eggs to a strong froth, add them to the butter, stir in the flour a little at a time, and beat the mixture well. Break down all the lumps from the arrowroot, and add that with the sugar to the other ingredients. Mix all well together, drop the dough on a buttered tin, in pieces the size of a shilling, and bake the biscuits about 1/4 hour in a slow oven.
Mode.—Cream the butter until smooth; beat the eggs until they’re frothy, then add them to the butter. Gradually stir in the flour and mix well. Break up any lumps from the arrowroot, then add it and the sugar to the other ingredients. Combine everything thoroughly, drop the dough onto a greased baking tray in pieces the size of a coin, and bake the biscuits for about 15 minutes in a low oven.
Time.—1/4 hour.
Time.—15 minutes.
Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Average cost, £2.50.
Sufficient to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits.
Sufficient to make 36 to 48 biscuits.
Seasonable at any time.
Available year-round.
NICE BREAKFAST CAKES.
1739. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1-1/2 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 eggs.
1739. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 teaspoon of cream of tartar, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda, 1-1/2 cups of milk, 1 oz. of sifted granulated sugar, 2 eggs.
Mode.—These cakes are made in the same manner as the soda bread No. 1722, with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, tartaric acid, and salt well together, taking care that the two latter ingredients are reduced to the finest powder, and stir in the sifted sugar, which should also be very fine. Dissolve the soda in the milk, add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and with this liquid work the flour, &c. into a light dough. Divide it into small cakes, put them into the oven immediately, and bake for about 20 minutes.
Mode.—These cakes are made in the same way as the soda bread No. 1722, but with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, tartaric acid, and salt thoroughly, making sure that the latter two ingredients are ground to a fine powder, and then stir in the sifted sugar, which should also be very fine. Dissolve the soda in the milk, add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and use this mixture to work the flour, etc., into a light dough. Divide it into small cakes, place them in the oven right away, and bake for about 20 minutes.
Time.—20 minutes.
Time.—20 mins.
COCOA-NUT BISCUITS OR CAKES.
1740. INGREDIENTS.—10 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut.
1740. INGREDIENTS.—10 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 6 oz. of grated coconut.
Mode.—Whisk the eggs until they are very light; add the sugar gradually; then stir in the cocoa-nut. Roll a tablespoonful of the paste at a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid; place the pyramids on paper, put the paper on tins, and bake the biscuits in rather a cool oven until they are just coloured a light brown.
Mode.—Whisk the eggs until they're very light; gradually mix in the sugar; then stir in the coconut. Roll a tablespoon of the mixture in your hands into a pyramid shape; place the pyramids on paper, set the paper on baking sheets, and bake the biscuits in a moderately cool oven until they're lightly browned.
Time.—About 1/4 hour. Seasonable at any time.
Duration.—About 15 minutes. Appropriate at any time.
CRISP BISCUITS.
1741. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.
1741. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. flour, 1 egg yolk, milk.
Mode.—Mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk to make the whole into a very stiff paste; beat it well, and knead it until it is perfectly smooth. Roll the paste out very thin; with a round cutter shape it into small biscuits, and bake them a nice brown in a slow oven from 12 to 18 minutes.
Mode.—Combine the flour and egg yolk with enough milk to create a very stiff paste; mix it well and knead until it's completely smooth. Roll out the paste very thin, use a round cutter to shape it into small biscuits, and bake them until they're a nice brown in a slow oven for 12 to 18 minutes.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 4d.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable at any time.
DESSERT BISCUITS, which may be flavoured with Ground Ginger, Cinnamon, &c. &c.
DESSERT BISCUITS, which can be flavored with ground ginger, cinnamon, etc.
1742. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste.
1742. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sifted sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, flavoring to taste.
Mode.—Put the butter into a basin; warm it, but do not allow it to oil; then with the hand beat it to a cream. Add the flour by degrees, then the sugar and flavouring, and moisten the whole with the yolks of the eggs, which should previously be well beaten. When all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture from a spoon on to a buttered paper, leaving a distance between each cake, as they spread as soon as they begin to get warm. Bake in rather a slow oven from 12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the biscuits acquire too much colour. In making the above quantity, half may be flavoured with ground ginger and the other half with essence of lemon or currants, to make a variety. With whatever the preparation is flavoured, so are the biscuits called; and an endless variety may be made in this manner.
Mode.—Put the butter in a bowl; warm it, but don’t let it get oily; then use your hand to beat it until creamy. Gradually add the flour, then the sugar and flavoring, and moisten everything with the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Once all the ingredients are fully combined, drop spoonfuls of the mixture onto a buttered sheet of paper, leaving space between each one since they will spread when they start to warm up. Bake in a moderately slow oven for 12 to 18 minutes, and be careful not to let the biscuits get too dark. For this amount, you can flavor half with ground ginger and the other half with lemon essence or currants for variety. The name of the biscuits reflects whatever flavoring you choose, and you can create an endless variety this way.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes, or rather longer, in a very slow oven.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes, or a bit longer, in a very slow oven.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient to make from 3 to 4 dozen cakes.
Enough to make 3 to 4 dozen cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
LEMON BISCUITS.
1743—INGREDIENTS.—1-1/4 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon-juice.
1743—INGREDIENTS.—1 1/4 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of granulated sugar, 6 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon zest, 2 dessert spoons of lemon juice.
Mode.—Rub the flour into the butter; stir in the pounded sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked, and the lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two, then drop it from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the cakes will spread when they get warm; place the tin in the oven, and bake the cakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes.
Mode.—Mix the flour into the butter; then add the powdered sugar and very finely chopped lemon peel. Once these ingredients are well combined, stir in the eggs, which should be beaten beforehand, along with the lemon juice. Mix everything well for a minute or two, then drop spoonfuls onto a buttered baking sheet, about 2 inches apart, since the cakes will spread as they bake. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake the cakes until they are a light brown, for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, £0.07.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
MACAROONS.
1744. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer-paper.
1744. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer-paper.
[Illustration: MACAROONS.]
[Illustration: MACARONS.]
Mode.—Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them well with a little orange-flower water or plain water; then add to them the sifted sugar and the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a stiff froth, and mix all the ingredients well together. When the paste looks soft, drop it at equal distances from a biscuit-syringe on to sheets of wafer-paper; put a strip of almond on the top of each; strew some sugar over, and bake the macaroons in rather a slow oven, of a light brown colour when hard and set, they are done, and must not be allowed to get very brown, as that would spoil their appearance. If the cakes, when baked, appear heavy, add a little more white of egg, but let this always be well whisked before it is added to the other ingredients. We have given a recipe for making these cakes, but we think it almost or quite as economical to purchase such articles as these at a good confectioner's.
Method.—Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, then pound them well with a bit of orange-flower water or regular water. Next, add the sifted sugar and the egg whites, which should be beaten to stiff peaks, and mix everything together thoroughly. When the mixture looks smooth, drop it at equal distances from a pastry bag onto sheets of wafer paper; place an almond strip on top of each one; sprinkle some sugar over them, and bake the macaroons in a slow oven. They should be a light brown color when set; don't let them get too dark, as this will ruin their appearance. If the cakes seem heavy when baked, add a little more egg white, but make sure it's well whipped before mixing it with the other ingredients. We've provided a recipe for making these cakes, but we think it's almost as economical to buy them from a good bakery.
Time.—From 15 to 20 minutes, in a slow oven.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes in a low oven.
Average cost, 1s. 8d. per lb.
Average cost, £0.08 per lb.
RATAFIAS.
[Illustration: RATAFIAS.]
[Illustration: RATAFIAS.]
1745. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of bitter ones, 3/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.
1745. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of bitter ones, 3/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.
Mode.—Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them in a mortar with the white of an egg; stir in the sugar, and gradually add the remaining whites of eggs, taking care that they are very thoroughly whisked. Drop the mixture through a small biscuit-syringe on to cartridge paper, and bake the cakes from 10 to 12 minutes in rather a quicker oven than for macaroons. A very small quantity should be dropped on the paper to form one cake, as, when baked, the ratafias should be about the size of a large button.
Mode.—Blanch, peel, and dry the almonds, then grind them in a mortar with the egg white; mix in the sugar and gradually add the rest of the egg whites, making sure they are well whipped. Use a small biscuit syringe to drop the mixture onto parchment paper and bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes in a slightly hotter oven than for macaroons. A very small amount should be dropped on the paper to create one cookie, as, when baked, the ratafias should be about the size of a large button.
Time.—10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 8d. per lb.
Time.—10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, £0.08 per lb.
RICE BISCUITS OR CAKES.
1746. INGREDIENTS.—To every 1/2 lb. of rice-flour allow 1/4 lb. of pounded lump sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs.
1746. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/2 lb. of rice flour, use 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, and 2 eggs.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the rice-flour and pounded sugar, and moisten the whole with the eggs, which should be previously well beaten. Roll out the paste, shape it with a round paste-cutter into small cakes, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in a very slow oven.
Mode.—Cream the butter, then mix in the rice flour and powdered sugar, and add the eggs that have been beaten well. Roll out the dough, cut it into small cakes using a round cookie cutter, and bake them for 12 to 18 minutes in a very low oven.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 9d.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 9p.
Sufficient to make about 18 cakes. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to make about 18 cakes. Good at any time.
GROUND RICE, or rice-flour, is used for making several kinds of cakes, also for thickening soups, and for mixing with wheaten flour in producing Manna Kroup. The Americans make rice-bread, and prepare the flour for it in the following manner:—When the rice is thoroughly cleansed, the water is drawn off, and the rice, while damp, bruised in a mortar: it is then dried, and passed through a hair sieve.
GROUND RICE, or rice flour, is used to make several types of cakes, to thicken soups, and to mix with wheat flour to create Manna Kroup. Americans make rice bread, and they prepare the flour for it like this: After thoroughly cleaning the rice, the water is drained off, and while the rice is still damp, it is ground in a mortar. It is then dried and sifted through a fine sieve.
ROCK BISCUITS.
1747. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/2 lb. of flour, a few currants.
1747. INGREDIENTS.—6 eggs, 1 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/2 lb. of flour, a few currants.
Mode.—Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well until very light, add the pounded sugar, and when this is well mixed with the eggs, dredge in the flour gradually, and add the currants. Mix all well together, and put the dough, with a fork, on the tins, making it look as rough as possible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; when they are done, allow them to get cool, and store them away in a tin canister, in a dry place.
Mode.—Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat them well until they’re light and fluffy. Add the powdered sugar, and once it’s fully combined with the eggs, gradually mix in the flour and add the currants. Stir everything together thoroughly, then drop spoonfuls of the dough onto the baking sheets, making the surface as rough as possible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven for 20 minutes to half an hour; when they’re done, let them cool and store them in a tin canister in a dry place.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, £0.06.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SAVOY BISCUITS OR CAKES.
1748. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 oz. of flour.
1748. INGREDIENTS.—4 eggs, 6 oz. of powdered sugar, the zest of 1 lemon, 6 oz. of flour.
Mode.—Break the eggs into a basin, separating the whites from the yolks; beat the yolks well, mix with them the pounded sugar and grated lemon-rind, and beat these ingredients together for 1/4 hour. Then dredge in the flour gradually, and when the whites of the eggs have been whisked to a solid froth, stir them to the flour, &c.; beat the mixture well for another 5 minutes, then draw it along in strips upon thick cartridge paper to the proper size of the biscuit, and bake them in rather a hot oven; but let them be carefully watched, as they are soon done, and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil them. These biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are called, are used for making Charlotte russes, and for a variety of fancy sweet dishes.
Method.—Crack the eggs into a bowl, separating the whites from the yolks; beat the yolks well, mix in the powdered sugar and grated lemon zest, and blend these ingredients together for 15 minutes. Then gradually sift in the flour, and when the egg whites are whisked to a stiff peak, fold them into the flour mixture. Beat the mixture well for another 5 minutes, then spread it out in strips on thick parchment paper to the desired size of the biscuits, and bake them in a fairly hot oven; however, keep a close eye on them as they cook quickly, and leaving them even a few seconds too long can burn and ruin them. These biscuits, also known as ladyfingers, are used for making Charlotte russets and a variety of other fancy desserts.
Time.—5 to 8 minutes, in a quick oven.
Time.—5 to 8 minutes, in a hot oven.
Average cost, 1s. 8d. per lb., or 1/2d. each.
Average cost, £0.08 per lb., or £0.0025 each.
SEED BISCUITS.
1749. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs.
1749. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sifted sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the flour, sugar, and caraway seeds; and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the eggs, which should be well whisked. Roll out the paste, with a round cutter shape out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from 10 to 15 minutes. The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milk or the white of an egg, and then a little sugar strewn over.
Method.—Cream the butter until smooth; mix in the flour, sugar, and caraway seeds; and once these ingredients are combined, add the eggs, which should be well beaten. Roll out the dough, use a round cutter to shape the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven for 10 to 15 minutes. The tops of the biscuits can be brushed with a little milk or egg white, and then sprinkled with a bit of sugar.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, £0.01.
Sufficient to make 3 dozen biscuits. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to make 36 biscuits. Good any time of year.
SIMPLE HARD BISCUITS.
1750. INGREDIENTS.—To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter, about 1/2 pint of skimmed milk.
1750. INGREDIENTS.—For every pound of flour, use 2 ounces of butter and about 1/2 pint of skimmed milk.
Mode.—Warm the butter in the milk until the former is dissolved, and then mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste; beat it with a rolling-pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth. Roll it out thin; cut it with the top of a glass into round biscuits; prick them well, and bake them from 6 to 10 minutes. The above is the proportion of milk which we think would convert the flour into a stiff paste; but should it be found too much, an extra spoonful or two of flour must be put in. These biscuits are very nice for the cheese course.
Mode.—Melt the butter in the milk until it’s fully dissolved, then mix it with the flour to create a very stiff paste; beat it with a rolling pin until the dough is perfectly smooth. Roll it out thin; use the top of a glass to cut out round biscuits; prick them well and bake for 6 to 10 minutes. This is the amount of milk we believe will turn the flour into a stiff paste, but if it seems too much, you can add an extra spoonful or two of flour. These biscuits are great for serving with cheese.
Time.—6 to 10 minutes.
Time.—6 to 10 mins.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
SODA BISCUITS.
1751. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
1751. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoon of baking soda.
Mode.—Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin; rub in the butter, add the sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir them into the mixture, and beat it well, until everything is well incorporated. Quickly stir in the soda, roll the paste out until it is about 1/2 inch thick, cut it into small round cakes with a tin cutter, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in rather a brisk oven. After the soda is added, great expedition is necessary in rolling and cutting out the paste, and in putting the biscuits immediately into the oven, or they will be heavy.
Method.—Put the flour (it should be completely dry) into a bowl; mix in the butter, then add the sugar and blend everything together well. Whisk the eggs, mix them into the batter, and beat it until everything is fully combined. Quickly stir in the baking soda, roll out the dough until it’s about 1/2 inch thick, cut it into small round cakes with a cookie cutter, and bake them for 12 to 18 minutes in a fairly hot oven. After adding the baking soda, you need to be quick in rolling and cutting out the dough and putting the biscuits immediately into the oven, or they will turn out heavy.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, $1.
Sufficient to make about 3 dozen cakes. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to make about 3 dozen cakes. Suitable at any time.
ALMOND CAKE.
1752. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of bitter almonds, 6 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls of fine flour, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 oz. of butter.
1752. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of bitter almonds, 6 eggs, 8 tablespoons of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoons of fine flour, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 oz. of butter.
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds to a paste; separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs; beat the latter, and add them to the almonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lemon-rind; add the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; and when all these ingredients are well mixed, put in the whites of the eggs, which should be whisked to a stiff froth. Butter a cake-mould, put in the mixture, and bake in a good oven from 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour.
Mode.—Blanch and grind the almonds into a paste; separate the egg whites from the yolks; beat the yolks and mix them into the almonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lemon zest; add the butter, which should be creamed; and once all these ingredients are well combined, fold in the egg whites, which should be whipped until stiff peaks form. Grease a cake pan, pour in the mixture, and bake in a preheated oven for about 1 to 1.75 hours.
Time.—1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hour. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—1 to 1.75 hours. Average cost, 1s.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
RICH BRIDE OR CHRISTENING CAKE.
1753. INGREDIENTS.—5 lbs. of the finest flour, 3 lbs. of fresh butter, 5 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 nutmegs, 1/4 oz. of mace, half 1/4 oz. of cloves, 16 eggs, 1 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. of candied citron, 1/2 lb. each of candied orange and lemon peel, 1 gill of wine, 1 gill of brandy.
1753. INGREDIENTS.—5 lbs. of the best flour, 3 lbs. of fresh butter, 5 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of sifted sugar, 2 nutmegs, 1/4 oz. of mace, 1/8 oz. of cloves, 16 eggs, 1 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/2 lb. of candied citron, 1/2 lb. each of candied orange and lemon peel, 1 cup of wine, 1 cup of brandy.
Mode.—Let the flour be as fine as possible, and well dried and sifted; the currants washed, picked, and dried before the fire; the sugar well pounded and sifted; the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded; the eggs thoroughly whisked, whites and yolks separately; the almonds pounded with a little orange-flower water, and the candied peel cut in neat slices. When all these ingredients are prepared, mix them in the following manner. Begin working the butter with the hand till it becomes of a cream-like consistency; stir in the sugar, and when the whites of the eggs are whisked to a solid froth, mix them with the butter and sugar; next, well beat up the yolks for 10 minutes, and, adding them to the flour, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, continue beating the whole together for 1/2 hour or longer, till wanted for the oven. Then mix in lightly the currants, almonds, and candied peel with the wine and brandy; and having lined a hoop with buttered paper, fill it with the mixture, and bake the cake in a tolerably quick oven, taking care, however, not to burn it: to prevent this, the top of it may be covered with a sheet of paper. To ascertain whether the cake is done, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it, withdraw it directly, and if the blade is not sticky, and looks bright, the cake is sufficiently baked. These cakes are usually spread with a thick layer of almond icing, and over that another layer of sugar icing, and afterwards ornamented. In baking a large cake like this, great attention must be paid to the heat of the oven; it should not be too fierce, but have a good soaking heat.
Method.—Use the finest flour possible, making sure it’s well dried and sifted; wash, pick, and dry the currants in front of the fire; pound and sift the sugar; grate the nutmegs, and pound the spices; thoroughly whisk the eggs, separating the whites and yolks; pound the almonds with a bit of orange-flower water, and slice the candied peel neatly. Once all these ingredients are ready, mix them as follows. Start by working the butter with your hands until it’s creamy; stir in the sugar, and when the egg whites are whisked into stiff peaks, fold them into the butter and sugar mixture. Then, beat the egg yolks for 10 minutes and mix them with the flour, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, continuing to beat the entire mixture for 30 minutes or longer, until ready for the oven. Next, gently fold in the currants, almonds, and candied peel along with the wine and brandy. Line a baking hoop with buttered paper, fill it with the mixture, and bake the cake in a moderately hot oven, being careful not to burn it; to avoid this, the top can be covered with a sheet of paper. To check if the cake is done, insert a clean knife into the center, pull it out immediately, and if the blade isn’t sticky and looks clean, the cake is done. These cakes are typically topped with a thick layer of almond icing, followed by sugar icing, and then decorated. When baking a large cake like this, it’s crucial to monitor the oven's heat; it shouldn’t be too intense but should provide good, even heat.
Time.—5 to 6 hours. Average cost, 2s. per lb.
Time—5 to 6 hours. Average cost, 2s. per lb.
CHRISTMAS CAKE.
1754. INGREDIENTS.—5 teacupfuls of flour, 1 teacupful of melted butter, 1 teacupful of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger, 1/2 lb. of raisins, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
1754. INGREDIENTS.—5 cups of flour, 1 cup of melted butter, 1 cup of cream, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of brown sugar, 2 eggs, 1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 1/2 lb. of raisins, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 1 tablespoon of vinegar.
Mode.—Make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not allow it to oil; put the flour into a basin; add to it the sugar, ginger, and raisins, which should be stoned and cut into small pieces. When these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream, treacle, and well-whisked eggs, and beat the mixture for a few minutes. Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the dough, and be particular that these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others; put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, place it in a moderate oven immediately, and bake it from 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours.
Mode.—Warm the butter until it's melted, but don't let it get greasy. Put the flour in a bowl; then add the sugar, ginger, and raisins, which should be pitted and chopped into small pieces. Once the dry ingredients are well mixed, stir in the butter, cream, molasses, and thoroughly beaten eggs, and mix for a few minutes. Dissolve the baking soda in the vinegar, add it to the batter, and make sure these last ingredients are well combined with the others. Pour the cake batter into a buttered mold or pan, place it in a preheated moderate oven right away, and bake for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours and 15 minutes.
Time.—1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. Average cost, £0.075.
COMMON CAKE, suitable for sending to Children at School.
COMMON CAKE, perfect for sending to kids at school.
1755. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 4 oz. of butter or clarified dripping, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/2 lb. of pounded sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast.
1755. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 4 oz. of butter or clarified drippings, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/4 oz. of allspice, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoons of fresh yeast.
Mode.—Rub the butter lightly into the flour; add all the dry ingredients, and mix these well together. Make the milk warm, but not hot; stir in the yeast, and with this liquid make the whole into a light dough; knead it well, and line the cake-tins with strips of buttered paper; this paper should be about 6 inches higher than the top of the tin. Put in the dough; stand it in a warm place to rise for more than an hour; then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. If this quantity be divided in two, they will take from 1-1/2 to 2 hours' baking.
Mode.—Gently mix the butter into the flour; then add all the dry ingredients and combine them well. Warm the milk, but don't let it get hot; stir in the yeast, and use this mixture to create a light dough; knead it thoroughly, and line the cake pans with strips of buttered paper that are about 6 inches taller than the rim of the pans. Place the dough inside; leave it in a warm spot to rise for over an hour; then bake the cakes in a preheated oven. If you split this amount into two, they will need to bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Time.—1-3/4 to 2-1/4 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Time.—1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours 15 minutes. Average cost, 1 shilling 9 pence.
Sufficient to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.
Enough to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.
ECONOMICAL CAKE.
[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.]
[Illustration: CAKE PAN.]
1756. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter or lard, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the whites of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk.
1756. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter or lard, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, the whites of 4 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk.
Mode,—In making many sweet dishes, the whites of eggs are not required, and if well beaten and added to the above ingredients, make an excellent cake, with or without currants. Beat the butter to a cream, well whisk the whites of the eggs, and stir all the ingredients together but the soda, which must not be added until all is well mixed, and the cake is ready to be put into the oven. When the mixture has been well beaten, stir in the soda, put the cake into a buttered mould, and bake it in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 hour.
Mode—When making many sweet dishes, you don’t need the egg whites. If you beat them well and add them to the other ingredients, they create a fantastic cake, with or without currants. Cream the butter, whisk the egg whites until they’re fluffy, and mix all the ingredients together except for the baking soda, which should be added only after everything is thoroughly combined and the cake is ready to go into the oven. Once the mixture is well beaten, stir in the baking soda, pour the cake batter into a greased mold, and bake it in a moderate oven for 1.5 hours.
Time.—1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Duration: 1.5 hours. Average cost: £1.15.
A NICE USEFUL CAKE.
1757. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 1/4 lb. of sugar 1 lb. of dried flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful of milk, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel.
1757. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of all-purpose flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 3 eggs, 1 cup of milk, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; wash, pick, and dry the currants; whisk the eggs; blanch and chop the almonds, and cut the peel into neat slices. When all these are ready, mix the dry ingredients together; then add the butter, milk, and eggs, and beat the mixture well for a few minutes. Put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it for rather more than 1-1/2 hour. The currants and candied peel may be omitted, and a little lemon or almond flavouring substituted for them: made in this manner, the cake will be found very good.
Mode.—Cream the butter; wash, pick, and dry the currants; whisk the eggs; blanch and chop the almonds, and cut the peel into neat slices. Once everything is prepared, mix the dry ingredients together; then add the butter, milk, and eggs, and beat the mixture well for a few minutes. Pour the cake batter into a buttered mold or tin, and bake for just over 1-1/2 hours. You can skip the currants and candied peel and replace them with a bit of lemon or almond flavoring: if made this way, the cake will turn out really good.
Time.—Rather more than 1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Time.—Just over 1.5 hours. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
HONEY CAKE.
1758. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 breakfast-cupful of sugar, 1 breakfast-cupful of rich sour cream, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, honey to taste.
1758. INGREDIENTS.—½ cup of sugar, 1 cup of rich sour cream, 2 cups of flour, ½ teaspoon of baking soda, honey to taste.
Mode.—Mix the sugar and cream together; dredge in the flour, with as much honey as will flavour the mixture nicely; stir it well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed; add the carbonate of soda, and beat the cake well for another 5 minutes; put it into a buttered tin, bake it from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, and let it be eaten warm.
Mode.—Mix the sugar and cream together; sift in the flour, along with enough honey to flavor the mixture nicely; stir it well so all the ingredients are fully combined; add the baking soda, and beat the cake for another 5 minutes; pour it into a buttered pan, bake it for 30 to 45 minutes, and serve it warm.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, 8d.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, 4p.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 3 or 4 people. Suitable at any time.
RICH SWEETMEAT GINGERBREAD NUTS.
1759. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter, 1 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 oz. of candied angelica, 1/2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1/2 oz. of coriander seeds, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg; flour.
1759. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of clarified butter, 1 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of candied orange peel, 1 oz. of candied angelica, 1/2 oz. of candied lemon peel, 1/2 oz. of coriander seeds, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg; flour.
Mode.—Put the treacle into a basin, and pour over it the butter, melted so as not to oil, the sugar, and ginger. Stir these ingredients well together, and whilst mixing, add the candied peel, which should be cut into very small pieces, but not bruised, and the caraway and coriander seeds, which should be pounded. Having mixed all thoroughly together, break in an egg, and work the whole up with as much fine flour as may be necessary to form a paste. Make this into nuts of any size, put them on a tin plate, and bake in a slow oven from 1/4 to 1/2 hour.
Mode.—Put the treacle into a bowl, and pour the melted butter over it without making it oily, then add the sugar and ginger. Mix these ingredients well, and while mixing, add the candied peel, which should be chopped into very small pieces without being crushed, along with the crushed caraway and coriander seeds. Once everything is thoroughly combined, crack in an egg and mix in enough flour to form a dough. Shape this into nuts of any size, place them on a baking tray, and bake in a slow oven for 15 to 30 minutes.
Time.—1/4 to 1/2 hour. Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb.
Time.—15 to 30 minutes. Average cost, from 5p to 6p per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
Available year-round.
THICK GINGERBREAD.
1760. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of treacle, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, 1/2 oz. of ground allspice, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1/4 pint of warm milk, 3 eggs.
1760. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of syrup, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, 1/2 oz. of ground allspice, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, 1/4 pint of warm milk, 3 eggs.
[Illustration: GINGERBREAD.]
[Illustration: GINGERBREAD.]
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin, with the sugar, ginger, and allspice; mix these together; warm the butter, and add it, with the treacle, to the other ingredients. Stir well; make the milk just warm, dissolve the carbonate of soda in it, and mix the whole into a nice smooth dough with the eggs, which should be previously well whisked; pour the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake it from 3/4 to 1 hour, or longer, should the gingerbread be very thick. Just before it is done, brush the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk, and put it back in the oven to finish baking.
Mode.—Put the flour into a bowl, along with the sugar, ginger, and allspice; mix these together. Melt the butter and add it, along with the treacle, to the other ingredients. Stir well; warm the milk slightly, dissolve the baking soda in it, and mix everything into a nice smooth dough with the eggs, which should be well whisked beforehand. Pour the mixture into a greased tin, and bake it for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or longer if the gingerbread is very thick. Just before it’s done, brush the top with a beaten egg yolk mixed with a little milk, and put it back in the oven to finish baking.
Time.—3/4 to 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. per square.
Time.—45 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, 1 shilling per square.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SUNDERLAND GINGERBREAD NUTS.
(An Excellent Recipe.)
(A Great Recipe.)
1761. INGREDIENTS.—1-3/4 lb. treacle, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of butter, 2-3/4 lbs. of flour, 1-1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 1-1/2 oz. of allspice, 1-1/2 oz. of coriander seeds.
1761. INGREDIENTS.—1-3/4 lbs. treacle, 1 lb. of brown sugar, 1 lb. of butter, 2-3/4 lbs. of flour, 1-1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 1-1/2 oz. of allspice, 1-1/2 oz. of coriander seeds.
Mode.—Let the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger be freshly ground; put them into a basin, with the flour and sugar, and mix these ingredients well together; warm the treacle and butter together; then with a spoon work it into the flour, &c., until the whole forms a nice smooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon on to a piece of buttered paper, and bake in rather a slow oven from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. A little candied lemon-peel mixed with the above is an improvement, and a great authority in culinary matters suggests the addition of a little cayenne pepper in gingerbread. Whether it be advisable to use this latter ingredient or not, we leave our readers to decide.
Mode.—Grind the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger fresh; put them in a bowl along with the flour and sugar, and mix these ingredients well. Warm the treacle and butter together, then use a spoon to blend it into the flour mixture until it forms a nice smooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon onto a piece of buttered paper, and bake in a moderately slow oven for 20 minutes to half an hour. Mixing in a bit of candied lemon peel is a nice addition, and an expert in cooking suggests adding a little cayenne pepper to the gingerbread. Whether or not to use this last ingredient is up to our readers to decide.
Time.—20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb.
Time.—20 minutes to 30 minutes. Average cost, 1s. to 1s. 4d. per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
Available anytime.
WHITE GINGERBREAD.
1762. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg grated, 1/2 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 gill of milk.
1762. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of granulated sugar, the zest of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda, 1 gill of milk.
Mode.—Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, which should be finely pounded and sifted, and the minced lemon-rind, ginger, and nutmeg. Mix these well together; make the milk just warm, stir in the soda, and work the whole into a nice smooth paste; roll it out, cut it into cakes, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes.
Method.—Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, which should be finely ground and sifted, along with the minced lemon zest, ginger, and nutmeg. Mix everything together thoroughly; warm the milk slightly, stir in the baking soda, and combine all the ingredients into a nice smooth dough. Roll it out, cut it into cakes, and bake in a moderate oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, £0.06.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
GOOD HOLIDAY CAKE.
1763. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2d. worth of Borwick's German baking-powder, 2 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of stoned and cut raisins, 1/4 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 3 eggs, 3/4 pint of cold milk.
1763. INGREDIENTS.—1.5d. worth of Borwick's German baking powder, 2 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lard, 1 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of pitted and chopped raisins, 1/4 lb. of mixed candied peel, 1/2 lb. of brown sugar, 3 eggs, 3/4 pint of cold milk.
Mode.—Mix the baking-powder with the flour; then rub in the butter and lard; have ready the currants, washed, picked, and dried the raisins stoned and cut into small pieces (not chopped), and the peel cut into neat slices. Add these with the sugar to the flour, &c., and mix all the dry ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the milk, and with this liquid moisten the cake; beat it up well, that all may be very thoroughly mixed; line a cake-tin with buttered paper, put in the cake, and bake it from 2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours in a good oven. To ascertain when it is done, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it, and if, on withdrawing it, the knife looks clean, and not sticky, the cake is done. To prevent its burning at the top, a piece of clean paper may be put over whilst the cake is soaking, or being thoroughly cooked in the middle. A steamer, such as is used for steaming potatoes, makes a very good cake-tin, if it be lined at the bottom and sides with buttered paper.
Mode.—Combine the baking powder with the flour; then mix in the butter and lard. Prepare the currants by washing, picking, and drying them, and chop the raisins into small pieces (not chopped) and slice the peel neatly. Add these along with the sugar to the flour, etc., and blend all the dry ingredients thoroughly. Beat the eggs, mix in the milk, and use this liquid to moisten the cake batter; mix it well to ensure everything is completely combined. Line a cake tin with buttered paper, pour in the cake mix, and bake it for 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 hours in a good oven. To check if it's done, insert a clean knife into the center, and if it comes out clean and not sticky, the cake is ready. To prevent burning on top, you can place a piece of clean paper over the cake while it's soaking or cooking through. A steamer, like the one used for steaming potatoes, makes a great cake tin if lined at the bottom and sides with buttered paper.
Time.—2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—2-1/4 to 2-3/4 hours. Average cost, £0.12.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable at any time.
LEMON CAKE.
1764. INGREDIENTS.—10 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water, 3/4 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lemon, 3/4 lb. of flour.
1764. INGREDIENTS.—10 eggs, 3 tablespoons of orange-flower water, 3/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 1 lemon, 3/4 lb. of flour.
[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.]
[Illustration: Cake Mold.]
Mode.—Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs whisk the former to a stiff froth; add the orange-flower water, the sugar, grated lemon-rind, and mix these ingredients well together. Then beat the yolks of the eggs, and add them, with the lemon-juice, to the whites, &c.; dredge in the flour gradually; keep beating the mixture well; put it into a buttered mould, and bake the cake about an hour, or rather longer. The addition of a little butter, beaten to a cream, we think, would improve this cake.
Mode.—Separate the egg whites from the yolks and whip the whites until they form stiff peaks. Add the orange-flower water, sugar, and grated lemon rind, and mix these ingredients thoroughly. Then, beat the yolks and combine them with the whites and lemon juice. Gradually fold in the flour while continuing to beat the mixture well. Pour it into a buttered mold and bake the cake for about an hour, or a bit longer. We believe that adding a small amount of butter, beaten to a cream, would enhance this cake.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. 4d.
Duration: Approximately 1 hour. Average cost: £0.06.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
LUNCHEON CAKE.
1765. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/4 lb. of currants, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of candied peel, 3 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
1765. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/4 lb. of currants, 6 oz. of brown sugar, 1 oz. of candied peel, 3 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 small teaspoon of baking soda.
Mode.—Rub the butter into the flour until it is quite fine; add the caraway seeds, currants (which should be nicely washed, picked, and dried), sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices; mix these well together, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well whisked. Boil the milk, and add to it, whilst boiling, the carbonate of soda, which must be well stirred into it, and, with the milk, mix the other ingredients. Butter a tin, pour the cake into it, and bake it in a moderate oven from 3/4 to 1 hour.
Method.—Rub the butter into the flour until it's very fine; add the caraway seeds, currants (which should be washed, picked, and dried), sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices; mix these together well, and moisten with the eggs, which should be whisked well. Boil the milk, and while it's boiling, add the baking soda, which must be stirred in well, and mix this with the other ingredients. Butter a baking tin, pour the cake batter into it, and bake in a moderate oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Time.—1 to 14 hour. Average cost, 1s. 8d. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—1 to 14 hours. Average cost, £0.08. Seasonable at any time.
CARBONATE OF SODA—Soda was called the mineral alkali, because it was originally dug up out of the ground in Africa and other countries: this state of carbonate of soda is called natron. But carbonate of soda is likewise procured from the combustion of marine plants, or such as grow on the sea-shore. Pure carbonate of soda is employed for making effervescing draughts, with lemon-juice, citric acid, or tartaric acid. The chief constituent of soda, the alkali, has been used in France from time immemorial in the manufacture of soap and glass, two chemical productions which employ and keep in circulation an immense amount of capital. A small pinch of carbonate of soda will give an extraordinary lightness to puff pastes; and, introduced into the teapot, will extract the full strength of the tea. But its qualities have a powerful effect upon delicate constitutions, and it is not to be used incautiously in any preparation.
CARBONATE OF SODA—Soda was known as the mineral alkali because it was originally mined in Africa and other countries; this form of carbonate of soda is called natron. However, carbonate of soda can also be obtained from burning marine plants or those that grow along the coast. Pure carbonate of soda is used to make fizzy drinks with lemon juice, citric acid, or tartaric acid. The main component of soda, the alkali, has been used in France for ages in the production of soap and glass, two industries that circulate a huge amount of capital. A small pinch of carbonate of soda can make puff pastries incredibly light, and adding it to the teapot will extract the full flavor of the tea. However, its effects can be strong on sensitive systems, so it should be used carefully in any preparation.
A NICE PLAIN CAKE.
1766. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of Borwick's baking-powder, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, 3 eggs, 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/2 lb. of currants.
1766. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoon of Borwick's baking powder, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 1 teacup of moist sugar, 3 eggs, 1 breakfast cup of milk, 1 oz. of caraway seeds, 1/2 lb. of currants.
Mode.—Put the flour and baking-powder into a basin; stir those together; then rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway seeds, and currants; whisk the eggs with the milk, and beat all together very thoroughly until the ingredients are well mixed. Butter a tin, put in the cake, and bake it from 11/2 to 2 hours. Let the dripping be quite clean before using: to insure this, it is a good plan to clarify it. Beef dripping is better than any other for cakes, &c., as mutton dripping frequently has a very unpleasant flavour, which would be imparted to the preparation.
Mode.—Combine the flour and baking powder in a bowl; mix them well. Then, rub in the fat, add the sugar, caraway seeds, and currants. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs with the milk, then mix everything together thoroughly until well combined. Grease a tin, pour in the batter, and bake for 1.5 to 2 hours. Make sure the fat is completely clean before using it; clarifying it is a good way to ensure this. Beef fat is preferable to any other for cakes, as mutton fat often has an unpleasant taste that could affect the final dish.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours. Average cost, 1s.
Time.—1.5 to 2 hours. Average cost, 1 shilling.
Seasonable at any time.
In season anytime.
A NICE PLAIN CAKE FOR CHILDREN.
1767. INGREDIENTS.—1 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter or good beef dripping, 1/4 pint of warm milk, 1/2 grated nutmeg or 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds.
1767. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart of dough, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter or good beef fat, 1/2 cup of warm milk, 1/2 grated nutmeg or 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds.
Mode.—If you are not in the habit of making bread at home, procure the dough from the baker's, and, as soon as it comes in, put it into a basin near the fire; cover the basin with a thick cloth, and let the dough remain a little while to rise. In the mean time, beat the butter to a cream, and make the milk warm; and when the dough has risen, mix with it thoroughly all the above ingredients, and knead the cake well for a few minutes. Butter some cake-tins, half fill them, and stand them in a warm place, to allow the dough to rise again. When the tins are three parts full, put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from 13/4 to 2 hours. A few currants might be substituted for the caraway seeds when the flavour of the latter is disliked.
Mode.—If you're not used to baking bread at home, get the dough from the bakery, and as soon as you receive it, place it in a bowl near the fire. Cover the bowl with a thick cloth and let the dough sit for a bit to rise. In the meantime, beat the butter until it's creamy and warm the milk; once the dough has risen, thoroughly mix in all the ingredients and knead the dough for a few minutes. Grease some cake pans, fill them halfway, and place them in a warm spot to let the dough rise again. When the pans are three-quarters full, put the cakes in a hot oven and bake them for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours. If you don’t like the taste of caraway seeds, you can use a few currants instead.
Time.—1-3/4 to 2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 2d.
Duration.—1.75 to 2 hours. Average cost, 1.1.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
COMMON PLUM CAKE.
1768. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter or good dripping, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 6 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of pounded allspice, 2 tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, 1 pint of new milk.
1768. INGREDIENTS.—3 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter or good dripping, 6 oz. of brown sugar, 6 oz. of currants, 4 oz. of ground allspice, 2 tablespoons of fresh yeast, 1 pint of fresh milk.
Mode.—Rub the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and allspice; warm the milk, stir to it the yeast, and mix the whole into a dough; knead it well, and put it into 6 buttered tins; place them near the fire for nearly an hour for the dough to rise, then bake the cakes in a good oven from 1 to 11/4 hour. To ascertain when they are done, plunge a clean knife into the middle, and if on withdrawal it comes out clean, the cakes are done.
Mode.—Mix the butter into the flour; add the sugar, currants, and allspice; warm the milk, stir in the yeast, and combine everything into a dough; knead it well and put it into 6 greased tins; set them near the fire for about an hour to let the dough rise, then bake the cakes in a good oven for 1 to 1¼ hours. To check if they are done, stick a clean knife into the center, and if it comes out clean, the cakes are ready.
Time.—1 to 1-1/4 hour.
Duration.—1 to 1.25 hours.
Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Sufficient to make 6 small cakes.
Enough to make 6 small cakes.
A NICE PLUM CAKE.
1769. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of ammonia or carbonate of soda.
1769. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 2 oz. of candied lemon peel, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 teaspoon of ammonia or baking soda.
Mode.—Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, currants, and sliced candied peel; beat the butter to a cream, and mix all these ingredients together with the milk. Stir the ammonia into 2 tablespoonfuls of milk and add it to the dough, and beat the whole well, until everything is thoroughly mixed. Put the dough into a buttered tin, and bake the cake from 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Mode.—Place the flour in a bowl with the sugar, currants, and chopped candied peel; cream the butter and combine all these ingredients with the milk. Mix the ammonia into 2 tablespoons of milk and add it to the dough, then beat everything well until fully combined. Pour the dough into a greased tin and bake the cake for 1.5 to 2 hours.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Duration.—1.5 to 2 hours.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
POUND CAKE.
[Illustration: POUND CAKE.]
[Illustration: Pound Cake.]
1770. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of butter, 1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. of candied peel, 1/2 oz. of citron, 1/2 oz. of sweet almonds; when liked, a little pounded mace.
1770. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of butter, 1-1/4 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of powdered sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. of candied peel, 1/2 oz. of citron, 1/2 oz. of sweet almonds; if desired, a little ground mace.
Mode.—Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, currants, candied peel, which should be cut into neat slices, and the almonds, which should be blanched and chopped, and mix all these well together; whisk the eggs, and let them be thoroughly blended with the dry ingredients. Beat the cake well for 20 minutes, and put it into a round tin, lined at the bottom and sides with a strip of white buttered paper. Bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, and let the oven be well heated when the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currants will all sink to the bottom of it. To make this preparation light, the yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and added separately to the other ingredients. A glass of wine is sometimes added to the mixture; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will be found quite rich enough without it.
Method.—Cream the butter until smooth; gradually mix in the flour; add the sugar, currants, and candied peel, which should be cut into small pieces, along with the blanched and chopped almonds, and blend everything well together. Whisk the eggs and thoroughly combine them with the dry ingredients. Beat the mixture well for 20 minutes, then pour it into a round tin lined on the bottom and sides with a strip of buttered parchment paper. Bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, ensuring the oven is preheated when you first put in the cake, as failing to do so will cause the currants to sink to the bottom. For a lighter texture, beat the egg yolks and whites separately and incorporate them into the other ingredients separately. A splash of wine is sometimes added to the batter, but it's usually not necessary since the cake is rich enough on its own.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Duration.—1.5 to 2 hours.
Average cost, 3s. 6d.
Average cost, £3.30.
Sufficient.—The above quantity divided in two will make two nice-sized cakes.
Sufficient.—The amount mentioned above split in half will make two nicely sized cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
A PAVINI CAKE.
1771. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of raisins stoned and cut into small pieces, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, 1/2 nutmeg grated, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
1771. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of raisins pitted and chopped into small pieces, 1/4 lb. of currants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoon of baking soda.
Mode.—Stone and cut the raisins into small pieces; wash, pick, and dry the currants; melt the butter to a cream, but without oiling it; blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. When all these ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together; make the milk warm, stir in the soda, and with this liquid make the whole into a paste. Butter a mould, rather more than half fill it with the dough, and bake the cake in a moderate oven from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or less time should it be made into 2 cakes.
Mode.—Chop the raisins into small pieces; wash, pick, and dry the currants; melt the butter until creamy, but without letting it get oily; blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. Once all these ingredients are ready, mix them well together; warm the milk, stir in the baking soda, and use this mixture to form a paste with the other ingredients. Grease a mold, fill it a little over halfway with the dough, and bake the cake in a moderate oven for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or less time if you’re making 2 cakes.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Time.—1.5 to 2 hours. Average cost, £0.08.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
[Illustration: CAKE-MOULD.]
[Illustration: CAKE PAN.]
RICE CAKE.
1772. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 9 eggs, 20 drops of essence of lemon, or the rind of 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter.
1772. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of ground rice, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 9 eggs, 20 drops of lemon extract, or the peel of 1 lemon, 1/4 lb. of butter.
Mode.—Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs; whisk them both well, and add to the latter the butter beaten to a cream. Stir in the flour, rice, and lemon (if the rind is used, it must be very finely minced), and beat the mixture well; then add the whites of the eggs, beat the cake again for some time, put it into a buttered mould or tin, and bake it for nearly 1-1/2 hour. It may be flavoured with essence of almonds, when this is preferred.
Mode.—Separate the egg whites from the yolks. Whisk both well, and to the yolks, add the butter that’s been beaten until creamy. Stir in the flour, rice, and lemon (if using the rind, it should be very finely minced), and mix everything thoroughly. Then add the egg whites, beat the mixture again for a while, pour it into a buttered mold or pan, and bake for about 1.5 hours. You can add almond essence if preferred.
Time.—Nearly 1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Duration.—About 1.5 hours. Average cost, 1.5.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
QUEEN-CAKES.
1773. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, essence of lemon, or almonds to taste.
1773. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 lb. of powdered sugar, 3 eggs, 1 cup of cream, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoon of baking soda, lemon extract or almond extract to taste.
Mode.—Work the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour, add the sugar and currants, and mix the ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, mix them with the cream and flavouring, and stir these to the flour; add the carbonate of soda, beat the paste well for 10 minutes, put it into small buttered pans, and bake the cake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour.
Method.—Beat the butter until creamy; sprinkle in the flour, then add the sugar and currants, mixing everything together thoroughly. Whisk the eggs, combine them with the cream and flavoring, and stir this mixture into the flour. Add the baking soda, beat the batter well for 10 minutes, pour it into small buttered pans, and bake the cake for 15 to 30 minutes.
Grated lemon-rind may be substituted for the lemon and almond flavouring, which will make the cakes equally nice.
Grated lemon peel can be used instead of the lemon and almond flavoring, which will make the cakes just as good.
Time. 1/4 to 1/2 hour.
Time. 15 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
SAUCER-CAKE FOR TEA.
1774. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of tous-les-mois, 1/4 lb. of pounded white sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of candied orange or lemon-peel.
1774. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of tous-les-mois, 1/4 lb. of powdered white sugar, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of candied orange or lemon peel.
Mode.—Mix the flour and tous-les-mois together; add the sugar, the candied peel cut into thin slices, the butter beaten to a cream, and the eggs well whisked. Beat the mixture for 10 minutes, put it into a buttered cake-tin or mould, or, if this is not obtainable, a soup-plate answers the purpose, lined with a piece of buttered paper. Bake the cake in a moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/4 hour, and when cold, put it away in a covered canister. It will remain good some weeks, even if it be cut into slices.
Instructions.—Combine the flour and tous-les-mois; then add the sugar, the candied peel sliced thinly, the butter beaten until creamy, and the eggs whisked well. Mix the ingredients for 10 minutes, then pour the batter into a buttered cake pan or mold, or if that's not available, a soup plate lined with buttered paper works too. Bake the cake in a moderately hot oven for 1 to 1-1/4 hours, and once it's cool, store it in a covered container. It will stay fresh for several weeks, even when sliced.
Time.—1 to 1-1/4 hour.
Duration.—1 to 1.25 hours.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
COMMON SEED-CAKE.
1775. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 quartern of dough, 1/4 lb. of good dripping, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg.
1775. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 quart of dough, 1/4 lb. of good fat, 6 oz. of brown sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg.
Mode.—If the dough is sent in from the baker's, put it in a basin covered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then with a wooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid; add it, with the other ingredients, to the dough, and beat it until everything is very thoroughly mixed. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake the cake for rather more than 2 hours.
Mode.—If the dough comes in from the bakery, place it in a bowl covered with a cloth and set it in a warm spot to rise. Then, use a wooden spoon to melt the dripping, and add it, along with the other ingredients, to the dough. Mix everything together until it's well combined. Pour it into a buttered tin and bake the cake for a little over 2 hours.
Time.—Rather more than 2 hours.
Duration.—Just over 2 hours.
Average cost, 8d.
Average cost, 8d.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
A VERY GOOD SEED-CAKE.
1776. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 3/4 lb. of sifted sugar, pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, 3/4 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
1776. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, 3/4 lb. of sifted sugar, ground mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, 3/4 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 wineglass of brandy.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour; add the sugar, mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, and beat the cake again for 10 minutes. Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake it from 1-1/2 to 2 hours. This cake would be equally nice made with currants, and omitting the caraway seeds.
Mode.—Cream the butter; sift in the flour; mix in the sugar, mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds until everything is well combined. Whisk the eggs, stir in the brandy, and beat the mixture again for 10 minutes. Pour it into a tin lined with buttered paper and bake for 1-1/2 to 2 hours. This cake would also be great made with currants, leaving out the caraway seeds.
Time.—1-1/2 to 2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Time.—1.5 to 2 hours. Average cost, £2.50.
Seasonable at any time.
In season at any time.
BREAD-MAKING IN SPAIN.—The bread in the south of Spain is delicious: it is white as snow, close as cake, and yet very light; the flavour is most admirable, for the wheat is good and pure, and the bread well kneaded. The way they make this bread is as follows:—From large round panniers filled with wheat they take out a handful at a time, sorting it most carefully and expeditiously, and throwing every defective grain into another basket. This done, the wheat is ground between two circular stones, as it was ground in Egypt 2,000 years ago (see No. 117), the requisite rotary motion being given by a blindfolded mule, which paces round and round with untiring patience, a bell being attached to his neck, which, as long as he is in movement, tinkles on; and when it stops, he is urged to his duty by the shout of "Arre, mula," from some one within hearing. When ground, the wheat is sifted through three sieves, the last of these being so fine that only the pure flour can pass through it: this is of a pale apricot-colour. The bread is made in the evening. It is mixed with only sufficient water, with a little salt in it, to make it into dough: a very small quantity of leaven, or fermenting mixture is added. The Scripture says, "A little leaven leaveneth the whole lump;" but in England, to avoid the trouble of kneading, many put as much leaven or yeast in one batch of household bread as in Spain would last them a week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread they send every night from their oven. The dough made, it is put into sacks, and carried on the donkeys' backs to the oven in the centre of the village, so as to bake it immediately it is kneaded. On arriving there, the dough is divided into portions weighing 3 lbs. each. Two long narrow wooden tables on trestles are then placed down the room; and now a curious sight may be seen. About twenty men (bakers) come in and range themselves on one side of the tables. A lump of dough is handed to the nearest, which he commences kneading and knocking about with all his might for about 3 or 4 minutes, and then passes it on to his neighbour, who does the same; and so on successively until all have kneaded it, when it becomes as soft as new putty, and ready for the oven. Of course, as soon as the first baker has handed the first lump to his neighbour, another is given to him, and so on till the whole quantity of dough is successively kneaded by them all. The bakers' wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven, and some of them are very small, and they are baked immediately. The ovens are very large, and not heated by fires under them; but a quantity of twigs of the herbs of sweet marjoram and thyme, which cover the hills in great profusion, are put in the oven and ignited. They heat the oven to any extent required; and, as the bread gets baked, the oven gets gradually colder; so the bread is never burned. They knead the bread in Spain with such force, that the palm of the hand and the second joints of the fingers of the bakers are covered with corns; and it so affects the chest, that they cannot work more than two hours at a time.
BREAD-MAKING IN SPAIN.—The bread in southern Spain is delicious: it's as white as snow, as dense as cake, yet very light; the flavor is excellent because the wheat is high-quality and pure, and the bread is well-kneaded. Here's how they make this bread: From large round baskets filled with wheat, they take out a handful at a time, carefully sorting it and tossing any bad grains into another basket. Once that's done, the wheat is ground between two circular stones, just like it was in Egypt 2,000 years ago (see No. 117). A blindfolded mule provides the necessary rotation, walking round and round tirelessly, with a bell attached to its neck that jingles as long as it keeps moving. If it stops, someone nearby calls out "Arre, mula" to get it going again. After grinding, the wheat is sifted through three sieves, with the last one being so fine that only pure flour can pass through; this flour is a pale apricot color. The bread is made in the evening. It's mixed with just enough water, along with a pinch of salt, to form a dough: only a tiny amount of leaven, or fermenting mixture, is added. The Scripture says, "A little leaven leaveneth the whole lump;" but in England, to skip the hassle of kneading, many add as much leaven or yeast in one batch as would last a week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread baked each night. Once the dough is ready, it's placed in sacks and carried on the donkeys’ backs to the oven in the village center, so it can be baked right after it's kneaded. Upon arrival, the dough is divided into portions of 3 lbs. each. Two long, narrow wooden tables on trestles are set up in the room, and a curious scene unfolds. About twenty bakers line up on one side of the tables. A lump of dough is handed to the nearest baker, who starts kneading and working it hard for about 3 or 4 minutes before passing it to the next baker, who does the same, and so on until everyone has kneaded it, making it as soft as new putty and ready for the oven. As soon as the first baker hands off the first lump, another is given to him, and this continues until all the dough has been kneaded by everyone. The bakers' wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven, with some of them being very small, and they bake them immediately. The ovens are large and are not heated by fires under them; instead, they burn a bunch of twigs from the abundant sweet marjoram and thyme herbs found on the hills. These twigs heat the oven to the necessary temperature; as the bread bakes and the oven cools, it prevents the bread from burning. They knead the dough in Spain with such strength that the palms of the bakers' hands and the second joints of their fingers get calloused, and it takes a toll on their chests, so they can't work more than two hours at a time.
SNOW-CAKE.
1777. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of tous-les-mois, 1/4 lb. of white pounded sugar, 1/4 lb. of fresh or washed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of 1 lemon.
1777. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of tous-les-mois, 1/4 lb. of white powdered sugar, 1/4 lb. of fresh or rinsed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of 1 lemon.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; then add the egg, previously well beaten, and then the other ingredients; if the mixture is not light, add another egg, and beat for 1/4 hour, until it turns white and light. Line a flat tin, with raised edges, with a sheet of buttered paper; pour in the cake, and put it into the oven. It must be rather slow, and the cake not allowed to brown at all. If the oven is properly heated, 1 to 1-1/4 hour will be found long enough to bake it. Let it cool a few minutes, then with a clean sharp knife cut it into small square pieces, which should be gently removed to a large flat dish to cool before putting away. This will keep for several weeks.
Method.—Cream the butter until smooth; then add a well-beaten egg and the other ingredients. If the mixture isn’t light, add another egg and beat for 15 minutes until it becomes white and fluffy. Line a flat baking pan with raised edges using a sheet of buttered parchment paper; pour in the batter and place it in the oven. The oven should be set to a low temperature, and the cake should not brown at all. If the oven is properly heated, 1 to 1.25 hours will be sufficient to bake it. Let it cool for a few minutes, then use a clean, sharp knife to cut it into small squares, which should be carefully transferred to a large flat dish to cool completely before storing. It will keep for several weeks.
Time.—1 to 1-1/4 hour. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Time.—1 to 1.25 hours. Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Seasonable at any time.
Relevant at any time.
SNOW-CAKE.
(A genuine Scotch Recipe.)
A real Scotch recipe.
1778. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of pounded white sugar, 1/2 lb. of butter, the whites of 6 eggs; flavouring to taste, of essence of almonds, or vanilla, or lemon.
1778. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of arrowroot, 1/2 lb. of powdered white sugar, 1/2 lb. of butter, the whites of 6 eggs; flavoring to taste, such as almond extract, vanilla, or lemon.
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream; stir in the sugar and arrowroot gradually, at the same time beating the mixture. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the other ingredients, and beat well for 20 minutes. Put in whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; pour the cake into a buttered mould or tin and bake it in a moderate oven from 1 to 1-1/2 hour.
Method.—Cream the butter; gradually mix in the sugar and arrowroot while beating the mixture. Whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, then add them to the other ingredients and beat well for 20 minutes. Add any of the preferred flavorings; pour the batter into a greased mold or pan and bake in a moderate oven for 1 to 1-1/2 hours.
Time.—1 to 1-1/2 hour.
Duration.—1 to 1.5 hours.
Average cost, with the best Bermuda arrowroot, 4s. 6d.; with St. Vincent ditto, 2s. 9d.
Average cost, with the best Bermuda arrowroot, £4.30; with St. Vincent arrowroot, £2.45.
Sufficient to make a moderate-sized cake. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to make a medium-sized cake. Appropriate at any time.
SCRAP-CAKES.
1779. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of leaf, or the inside fat of a pig; 1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of moist sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 oz. of candied lemon-peel, ground allspice to taste.
1779. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of leaf lard, or the inner fat of a pig; 1-1/2 lbs. of flour, 1/4 lb. of brown sugar, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1 oz. of candied lemon peel, ground allspice to taste.
Mode.—Cut the leaf, or flead, as it is sometimes called, into small pieces; put it into a large dish, which place in a quick oven; be careful that it does not burn, and in a short time it will be reduced to oil, with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface; and it is of these that the cakes should be made. Gather all the scraps together, put them into a basin with the flour, and rub them well together. Add the currants, sugar, candied peel, cut into thin slices, and the ground allspice. When all these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with sufficient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste; roll it out thin, cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a quick oven from 15 to 20 minutes. These are very economical and wholesome cakes for children, and the lard, melted at home, produced from the flead, is generally better than that you purchase. To prevent the lard from burning, and to insure its being a good colour, it is better to melt it in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water; by doing it in this manner, there will be no chance of its discolouring.
Method.—Cut the leaf, or flead, as it’s sometimes called, into small pieces; place them in a large dish and put it in a hot oven. Be careful not to let it burn, and soon it will turn into oil, with the small pieces of leaf floating on top; these should be used to make the cakes. Gather all the scraps, put them in a bowl with the flour, and mix them well. Add the currants, sugar, candied peel cut into thin slices, and ground allspice. Once all the ingredients are well combined, add enough cold water to form a nice paste; roll it out thin, cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a hot oven for 15 to 20 minutes. These are very inexpensive and healthy cakes for kids, and the lard, melted at home from the flead, is usually better than what you can buy. To prevent the lard from burning and to ensure a nice color, it’s best to melt it in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water; this way, there’s no risk of discoloration.
Time.—15 to 20 minutes.
Time.—15 to 20 mins.
Sufficient to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes.
Enough to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes.
Seasonable from September to March.
Available from September to March.
[Illustration: WHEAT.]
[Illustration: WHEAT.]
Wheat is liable to several diseases, which affect the flour made from it, and render it unfit for good bread. The principal of these are the blight, mildew, and smut, which are occasioned by microscopic fungi, which sow themselves and grow upon the stems and ears, destroying the nutritive principles, and introducing matter of a deleterious kind. The farmer is at the utmost pains to keep away these intruders. Wheat, as well as all kinds of corn, is also very liable to be injured by being stacked before it is quite dry; in which case it will heat, and become musty in the ricks. In wet harvests it is sometimes impossible to get it sufficiently dried, and a great deal of corn is thus often spoiled. It is generally reckoned that the sweetest bread is made from wheat threshed out before it is stacked; which shows the importance of studying the best modes of preserving it.
Wheat can be affected by several diseases that impact the flour made from it, making it unsuitable for good bread. The main diseases are blight, mildew, and smut, caused by microscopic fungi that invade and grow on the stems and ears, destroying the nutritious components and introducing harmful substances. Farmers go to great lengths to keep these pests away. Wheat, like all types of grain, is also quite vulnerable to damage if it’s stacked before it’s completely dry; in such cases, it can heat up and become musty in the stacks. During wet harvests, it can be impossible to dry it out properly, leading to a lot of spoiled grain. It’s generally believed that the best bread is made from wheat that has been threshed before being stacked, highlighting the importance of learning the best ways to preserve it.
The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn: some say it is Egypt, others Tartary; and the learned Bailly, as well as the traveller Pallas, affirms that it grows spontaneously in Siberia. Be that as it may, the Phocians brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had penetrated into Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked or bruised in a mortar: they did not know, for a long time, how to make fermented bread.
The knowledgeable people don’t agree on the original home of corn: some say it’s Egypt, others think it’s Tartary; and the scholar Bailly, along with the traveler Pallas, claims it grows naturally in Siberia. Regardless, the Phocians brought it to Marseille before the Romans entered Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked or ground in a mortar; they didn’t know for a long time how to make fermented bread.
SCOTCH SHORTBREAD.
1780. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, a few strips of candied orange-peel.
1780. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of powdered sugar, 1/2 oz. of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, a few strips of candied orange peel.
[Illustration: SHORTBREAD.]
[Illustration: SHORTBREAD.]
Mode.—Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour, and add the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet almonds, which should be blanched and cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it is quite smooth, and divide it into six pieces. Put each cake on a separate piece of paper, roll the paste out square to the thickness of about an inch, and pinch it upon all sides. Prick it well, and ornament with one or two strips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from 25 to 30 minutes.
Mode.—Beat the butter until creamy, gradually mix in the flour, and then add the sugar, caraway seeds, and blanched sweet almonds cut into small pieces. Work the dough until it's completely smooth, then divide it into six pieces. Place each cake on its own piece of paper, roll the dough out into squares about an inch thick, and pinch the edges all around. Prick it well and decorate with one or two strips of candied orange peel. Put the cakes in a properly preheated oven and bake them for 25 to 30 minutes.
Time.—25 to 30 minutes.
Duration.—25 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, for this quantity, 2s.
Average cost, for this quantity, 2 shillings.
Sufficient to make 6 cakes.
Good for 6 cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
Note.—Where the flavour of the caraway seeds is disliked, omit them, and add rather a larger proportion of candied peel.
Note.—If you don't like the taste of caraway seeds, leave them out and use more candied peel instead.
SODA-CAKE.
1781. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of moist sugar, 1 teacupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
1781. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of brown sugar, 1 teacup of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of baking soda.
Mode.—Rub the butter into the flour, add the currants and sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs well, stir them to the flour, &c., with the milk, in which the soda should be previously dissolved, and beat the whole up together with a wooden spoon or beater. Divide the dough into two pieces, put them into buttered moulds or cake-tins, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour. The mixture must be extremely well beaten up, and not allowed to stand after the soda is added to it, but must be placed in the oven immediately. Great care must also be taken that the cakes are quite done through, which may be ascertained by thrusting a knife into the middle of them: if the blade looks bright when withdrawn, they are done. If the tops acquire too much colour before the inside is sufficiently baked, cover them over with a piece of clean white paper, to prevent them from burning.
Method.—Rub the butter into the flour, add the currants and sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs thoroughly, stir them into the flour, etc., along with the milk, in which the soda should be dissolved beforehand, and beat everything together with a wooden spoon or mixer. Divide the dough into two pieces, place them in buttered molds or cake pans, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour. The mixture must be beaten very well and should not be left to stand after adding the soda; it must go into the oven immediately. Great care must also be taken to ensure that the cakes are cooked all the way through, which can be checked by inserting a knife into the center: if the blade comes out clean, they are done. If the tops get too brown before the insides are fully baked, cover them with a piece of clean white paper to prevent burning.
Time.—1 hour.
Time.—1 hour.
Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Average cost, £1.30.
Sufficient to make 2 small cakes.
Enough to make 2 small cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
"Seasonable" anytime.
SAVOY CAKE.
1782. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 4 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the weight of 7 in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of almonds, or orange-flower water.
1782. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 4 eggs in powdered sugar, the weight of 7 in flour, a bit of grated lemon peel, or almond extract, or orange blossom water.
Mode.—Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and the whites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar, the grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste; beat them well together, and add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a froth. Put in the flour by degrees, continuing to beat the mixture for 1/4 hour, butter a mould, pour in the cake, and bake it from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. This is a very nice cake for dessert, and may be iced for a supper-table, or cut into slices and spread with jam, which converts it into sandwiches.
Method.—Break the 7 eggs, separating the yolks into one bowl and the whites into another. Whisk the yolks, then mix in the sugar, grated lemon zest, or any other flavoring you like; beat them well together, and fold in the egg whites that have been whisked to a froth. Gradually add the flour while continuing to beat the mixture for 15 minutes. Grease a mold, pour in the batter, and bake for 1 to 1.5 hours. This is a lovely dessert cake that can be iced for a dinner party or cut into slices and spread with jam to make sandwiches.
Time.—1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour.
Time.—1 to 1.5 hours.
Average cost, 1s.
Average cost, $1.
Sufficient for 1 cake.
Enough for 1 cake.
Seasonable at any time.
Seasonal at any time.
SPONGE-CAKE.
I.
[Illustration: SPONGE-CAKE.]
[Illustration: SPONGE CAKE.]
1783. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 8 eggs in pounded loaf sugar, the weight of 5 in flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
1783. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 8 eggs in powdered sugar, the weight of 5 in flour, the zest of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon of brandy.
Mode.—Put the eggs into one side of the scale, and take the weight of 8 in pounded loaf sugar, and the weight of 5 in good dry flour. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former, put them into a saucepan with the sugar, and let them remain over the fire until milk-warm, keeping them well stirred. Then put them into a basin, add the grated lemon-rind mixed with the brandy, and stir these well together, dredging in the flour very gradually. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, stir them to the flour, &c., and beat the cake well for 1/4 hour. Put it into a buttered mould strewn with a little fine sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a quick oven for 1-1/2 hour. Care must be taken that it is put into the oven immediately, or it will not be light. The flavouring of this cake may be varied by adding a few drops of essence of almonds instead of the grated lemon-rind.
Mode.—Place the eggs on one side of the scale, and take the weight of 8 ounces of powdered loaf sugar and 5 ounces of good dry flour. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the yolks, then put them into a saucepan with the sugar, keeping them over the heat until they’re milk-warm, stirring continuously. Next, transfer the mixture to a bowl, add the grated lemon zest mixed with the brandy, and stir everything together, gradually adding the flour. Whisk the egg whites until they form a very stiff froth, fold them into the flour mixture, and mix the batter thoroughly for 15 minutes. Pour it into a buttered mold dusted with a little fine sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a hot oven for 1.5 hours. Be sure to put it in the oven immediately, or it won’t rise properly. You can change the flavor of this cake by adding a few drops of almond essence instead of the grated lemon zest.
Time.—1-1/2 hour.
Duration.—1.5 hours.
Average cost, 1s. 3d.
Average cost, 1.25 GBP.
Sufficient for 1 cake.
Enough for 1 cake.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable any time.
[Illustration: EGYPTIAN WHEAT.]
[Illustration: EGYPTIAN WHEAT.]
The Egyptian, or Mummy Wheat, is not grown to any great extent, owing to its inferior quality; but it is notable for its large produce, and is often cultivated on allotment grounds and on small farms, where quantity rather than quality is desired. At Wix, in Essex, the seed of this wheat has produced, without artificial assistance, four thousandfold; some of the ears have had eleven offshoots, and have contained, altogether, eleven grains in one ear.
The Egyptian, or Mummy Wheat, isn't widely cultivated because of its lower quality; however, it's known for its high yield and is often grown on community gardens and small farms where quantity is more important than quality. In Wix, Essex, this wheat variety has produced an impressive four thousandfold yield without any artificial help; some of the ears have had eleven offshoots, with a total of eleven grains in a single ear.
II.
1784. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, not quite 1/4 pint of water, 5 eggs, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
1784. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of sugar, just under 1/4 pint of water, 5 eggs, 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together until they form a thick syrup; let it cool a little, then pour it to the eggs, which should be previously well whisked; and after the eggs and syrup are mixed together, continue beating them for a few minutes. Grate the lemon-rind, mix the carbonate of soda with the flour, and stir these lightly to the other ingredients; then add the lemon-juice, and, when the whole is thoroughly mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, and bake in rather a quick oven for rather more than 1 hour. The remains of sponge or Savoy cakes answer very well for trifles, light puddings, &c.; and a very stale one (if not mouldy) makes an excellent tipsy-cake.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together until they turn into a thick syrup; let it cool a bit, then pour it into the eggs, which should be whisked well first; after mixing the eggs and syrup together, keep whisking for a few minutes. Grate the lemon peel, mix the baking soda with the flour, and gently fold these into the other ingredients; then add the lemon juice, and when everything is well combined, pour it into a buttered mold, and bake in a moderately hot oven for a little over 1 hour. Leftover sponge or Savoy cakes work great for trifles, light puddings, etc.; and a very stale one (as long as it’s not moldy) makes an excellent tipsy cake.
Time.—Rather more than 1 hour.
Time.—Just over 1 hour.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient to make 1 cake.
Enough to make 1 cake.
Seasonable at any time.
Appropriate for any season.
TO MAKE SMALL SPONGE-CAKES.
1785. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 5 eggs in flour, the weight of 8 in pounded loaf sugar; flavouring to taste.
1785. INGREDIENTS.—The weight of 5 eggs in flour, the weight of 8 in powdered loaf sugar; flavoring to taste.
Mode.—Let the flour be perfectly dry, and the sugar well pounded and sifted. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and beat the latter up with the sugar; then whisk the whites until they become rather stiff, and mix them with the yolks, but do not stir them more than is just necessary to mingle the ingredients well together. Dredge in the flour by degrees, add the flavouring; batter the tins well, pour in the batter, sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake them in rather a quick oven, but do not allow them to take too much colour, as they should be rather pale. Remove them from the tins before they get cold, and turn them on their faces, where let them remain until quite cold, when store them away in a closed tin canister or wide-mouthed glass bottle.
Method.—Make sure the flour is completely dry and the sugar is finely ground and sifted. Separate the egg whites from the yolks, and beat the yolks with the sugar. Then, whisk the egg whites until they're fairly stiff, and gently mix them with the yolks, stirring just enough to combine the ingredients well. Gradually sprinkle in the flour, add the flavoring; grease the tins well, pour in the batter, sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake them in a fairly hot oven, but don’t let them get too dark, as they should remain light in color. Take them out of the tins before they cool down, and turn them upside down, leaving them like that until completely cool. Store them in a sealed tin container or a wide glass jar.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes in a quick oven.
Time.—10 to 15 minutes in a fast oven.
Average cost, 1d. each.
Average cost, 1d. each.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
TEA-CAKES.
1786. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 lb. of butter or lard, 1 egg, a piece of German yeast the size of a walnut, warm milk.
1786. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of flour, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, 1/4 lb. of butter or lard, 1 egg, a piece of German yeast about the size of a walnut, warm milk.
Mode.—Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin mix with it the salt, and rub in the butter or lard; then beat the egg well, stir to it the yeast, and add these to the flour with as much warm milk as will make the whole into a smooth paste, and knead it well. Let it rise near the fire, and, when well risen, form it into cakes; place them on tins, let them rise again for a few minutes before putting them into the oven, and bake from 1/4 to 1/2 hour in a moderate oven. These are very nice with a few currants and a little sugar added to the other ingredients: they should be put in after the butter is rubbed in. These cakes should be buttered, and eaten hot as soon as baked; but, when stale, they are very nice split and toasted; or, if dipped in milk, or even water, and covered with a basin in the oven till hot, they will be almost equal to new.
Method.—Put the flour (it should be completely dry) into a bowl, mix in the salt, and work in the butter or lard. Then beat the egg well, stir in the yeast, and add this mixture to the flour along with enough warm milk to form a smooth dough, and knead it thoroughly. Let it rise near the fire, and once it has risen well, shape it into cakes; place them on baking sheets, let them rise again for a few minutes before putting them in the oven, and bake for 15 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. These are really good with some currants and a little sugar added to the other ingredients; you should mix those in after the butter is worked in. These cakes should be buttered and eaten hot as soon as they are baked; however, when they are stale, they are great split and toasted; or, if dipped in milk or even water and covered with a bowl in the oven until hot, they will be almost as good as fresh.
Time.—1/4 to 1/2 hour.
Time.—15 to 30 minutes.
Average cost, 10d.
Average cost, 10p.
Sufficient to make 8 tea-cakes.
Enough to make 8 tea cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Always in season.
TO TOAST TEA-CAKES.
[Illustration: TEA-CAKES.]
[Illustration: Tea Cakes.]
1787. Cut each tea-cake into three or four slices, according to its thickness; toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire, and as each slice is done, spread it with butter on both sides. When a cake is toasted, pile the slices one on the top of the other, cut them into quarters, put them on a very hot plate, and send the cakes immediately to table. As they are wanted, send them in hot, one or two at a time, as, if allowed to stand, they spoil, unless kept in a muffin-plate over a basin of boiling water.
1787. Cut each tea cake into three or four slices, depending on its thickness; toast them on both sides in front of a nice clear fire, and as each slice finishes, spread butter on both sides. When a cake is toasted, stack the slices on top of each other, cut them into quarters, place them on a very hot plate, and serve them immediately. As they're needed, bring them out hot, one or two at a time, because if they sit too long, they spoil, unless kept in a muffin pan over a bowl of boiling water.
A NICE YEAST-CAKE.
1788. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of butter, 1/2 pint of milk, 1-1/2 tablespoonful of good yeast, 3 eggs, 3/4 lb. of currants, 1/2 lb. of white moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel.
1788. INGREDIENTS.—1.5 lb. of flour, 0.5 lb. of butter, 0.5 pint of milk, 1.5 tablespoons of good yeast, 3 eggs, 0.75 lb. of currants, 0.5 lb. of white moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel.
Mode.—Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and shake it round over a fire until the butter is melted, but do not allow the milk to get very hot. Put the flour into a basin, stir to it the milk and butter, the yeast, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and form the whole into a smooth dough. Let it stand in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the currants, sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices. When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper, which should be about six inches higher than the tin; pour in the mixture, let it stand to rise again for another 1/2 hour, and then bake the cakes in a brisk oven for about 1-1/2 hour. If the tops of them become too brown, cover them with paper until they are done through. A few drops of essence of lemon, or a little grated nutmeg, may be added when the flavour is liked.
Mode.—Put the milk and butter in a saucepan, and swirl it over the heat until the butter melts, but don’t let the milk get too hot. Place the flour in a bowl, then stir in the milk and butter, the yeast, and the well-beaten eggs, mixing everything into a smooth dough. Let it sit in a warm spot, covered with a cloth, to rise; when it has risen enough, add the currants, sugar, and thinly sliced candied peel. Once all the ingredients are well combined, line two medium-sized cake tins with buttered paper, ensuring the paper is about six inches taller than the tins. Pour in the mixture, let it rise for another 30 minutes, and then bake the cakes in a hot oven for about 1.5 hours. If the tops start to brown too much, cover them with paper until they’re cooked through. You can add a few drops of lemon essence or a little grated nutmeg for extra flavor if desired.
Time.—From 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hour. Average cost, 2s.
Time.—From 1 to 1.5 hours. Average cost, £0.10.
Sufficient to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.
Enough to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Cool anytime.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXXVI.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES.
1789. Beverages are innumerable in their variety; but the ordinary beverages drunk in the British isles, may be divided into three classes:—1. Beverages of the simplest kind not fermented. 2. Beverages, consisting of water, containing a considerable quantity of carbonic acid. 3. Beverages composed partly of fermented liquors. Of the first class may be mentioned,—water, toast-and-water, barley-water, eau sucré, lait sucré, cheese and milk whey, milk-and-water, lemonade, orangeade, sherbet, apple and pear juice, capillaire, vinegar-and-water, raspberry vinegar and water.
1789. There are countless types of drinks, but the common beverages consumed in the British Isles can be grouped into three categories: 1. Basic non-fermented drinks. 2. Drinks made with water that have a significant amount of carbonic acid. 3. Drinks that are partly made from fermented liquids. Examples of the first category include water, toast and water, barley water, sweetened water, sweetened milk, cheese whey, milk mixed with water, lemonade, orangeade, sherbet, apple and pear juice, capillaire, vinegar mixed with water, and raspberry vinegar mixed with water.
1790. Of the common class of beverages, consisting of water impregnated with carbonic acid gas, we may name soda-water, single and double, ordinary effervescing draughts, and ginger-beer.
1790. Among the everyday drinks that are carbonated with carbonic acid gas, we can mention soda water, both regular and extra fizzy, standard sparkling beverages, and ginger beer.
1791. The beverages composed partly of fermented liquors, are hot spiced wines, bishop, egg-flip, egg-hot, ale posset, sack posset, punch, and spirits-and-water.
1791. The drinks made partly from fermented alcohol include hot spiced wines, bishop, egg flip, egg hot, ale posset, sack posset, punch, and spirits and water.
1792. We will, however, forthwith treat on the most popular of our beverages, beginning with the one which makes "the cup that cheers but not inebriates."
1792. We will, however, immediately discuss the most popular of our beverages, starting with the one that is "the cup that cheers but doesn’t get you drunk."
1793. The beverage called tea has now become almost a necessary of life. Previous to the middle of the 17th century it was not used in England, and it was wholly unknown to the Greeks and Romans. Pepys says, in his Diary,—"September 25th, 1661.—I sent for a cup of tea (a China drink), of which I had never drunk before." Two years later it was so rare a commodity in England, that the English East-India Company bought 2 lbs. 2 oz. of it, as a present for his majesty. In 1666 it was sold in London for sixty shillings a pound. From that date the consumption has gone on increasing from 5,000 lbs. to 50,000,000 lbs.
1793. Tea has now become almost a necessity in life. Before the mid-17th century, it wasn't consumed in England and was completely unknown to the Greeks and Romans. Pepys writes in his Diary, "September 25th, 1661. I ordered a cup of tea (a drink from China), which I had never tried before." Two years later, it was so rare in England that the English East India Company purchased 2 lbs. 2 oz. of it as a gift for the king. In 1666, it sold in London for sixty shillings a pound. Since that time, consumption has increased from 5,000 lbs. to 50,000,000 lbs.
1794. Linnaeus was induced to think that there were two species of tea-plant, one of which produced the black, and the other the green teas; but later observations do not confirm this. When the leaves of black and green tea are expanded by hot water, and examined by the botanist, though a difference of character is perceived, yet this is not sufficient to authorize considering them as distinct species. The tea-tree flourishes best in temperate regions; in China it is indigenous. The part of China where the best tea is cultivated, is called by us the "tea country." The cultivation of the plant requires great care. It is raised chiefly on the sides of hills; and, in order to increase the quantity and improve the quality of the leaves, the shrub is pruned, so as not to exceed the height of from two to three feet, much in the same manner as the vine is treated in France. They pluck the leaves, one selecting them according to the kinds of tea required; and, notwithstanding the tediousness of the operation, each labourer is able to gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day. When the trees attain to six or seven years of age, the produce becomes so inferior that they are removed to make room for a fresh succession, or they are cut down to allow of numerous young shoots. Teas of the finest flavour consist of the youngest leaves; and as these are gathered at four different periods of the year, the younger the leaves the higher flavoured the tea, and the scarcer, and consequently the dearer, the article.
1794. Linnaeus was led to believe that there are two species of tea plant, one producing black tea and the other green tea; however, later observations do not support this. When the leaves of black and green tea are steeped in hot water and examined by botanists, a difference in characteristics is noted, yet this isn't enough to classify them as separate species. The tea tree thrives best in temperate regions, and it is native to China. The area in China known for producing the best tea is referred to as the "tea country." Growing the plant demands a lot of care. It is primarily cultivated on hillsides, and to boost both the quantity and quality of the leaves, the shrub is pruned to stay between two to three feet tall, similar to how vines are treated in France. Workers pick the leaves according to the type of tea they need, and despite the labor-intensive nature of the task, each person can gather between four and fifteen pounds a day. Once the trees reach six or seven years of age, their yield declines, so they are either removed to make space for new ones or cut back to encourage numerous young shoots. The highest quality teas are made from the youngest leaves, which are harvested during four distinct periods of the year. The younger the leaves, the more flavorful the tea, making it rarer and consequently more expensive.
1795. The various names by which teas are sold in the British market are corruptions of Chinese words. There are about a dozen different kinds; but the principal are Bohea, Congou, and Souchong, and signify, respectively, inferior, middling, and superior. Teas are often perfumed and flavoured with the leaves of different kinds of plants grown on purpose. Different tea-farms in China produce teas of various qualities, raised by skilful cultivation on various soils.
1795. The different names for teas sold in the British market are adaptations of Chinese words. There are about a dozen different types; but the main ones are Bohea, Congou, and Souchong, which mean, respectively, inferior, middling, and superior. Teas are often scented and flavored with leaves from different plants that are grown specifically for that purpose. Various tea farms in China produce teas of different qualities, cultivated skillfully on different types of soil.
1796. Tea, when chemically analyzed, is found to contain woody fibre, mucilage, a considerable quantity of the astringent principle, or tannin, a narcotic principle, which is, perhaps, connected with a peculiar aroma. The tannin is shown by its striking a black colour with sulphate of iron, and is the cause of the dark stain which is always formed when tea is spilt upon buff-coloured cottons dyed with iron. A constituent called Theine has also been discovered in tea, supposed to be identical with Caffeine, one of the constituents of coffee. Liebig says, "Theine yields, in certain processes of decomposition, a series of most remarkable products, which have much analogy with those derived from uric acid in similar circumstances. The infusion of tea differs from that of coffee, by containing iron and manganese. We have in tea, of many kinds, a beverage which contains the active constituents of the most powerful mineral springs, and, however small the amount of iron may be which we daily take in this form, it cannot be destitute of influence on the vital processes."
1796. When analyzed chemically, tea is found to contain woody fiber, mucilage, a significant amount of the astringent compound known as tannin, and a narcotic component that may be linked to a unique aroma. Tannin is known to turn black when it reacts with sulfate of iron, which causes the dark stain that appears when tea spills on buff-colored cotton fabrics dyed with iron. A component called Theine has also been identified in tea, thought to be the same as Caffeine, a constituent found in coffee. Liebig states, "Theine produces, in certain decomposition processes, a remarkable series of products that are quite similar to those derived from uric acid under similar conditions. The infusion of tea differs from that of coffee by containing iron and manganese. In many types of tea, we have a beverage that holds the active constituents of powerful mineral springs, and although the amount of iron we consume this way may be small, it cannot lack influence on our vital processes."
1797. Chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country, by the admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants. The leaves of the sloe, white thorn, ash, elder, and some others, have been employed for this purpose; such as the leaves of the speedwell, wild germander, black currants, syringa, purple-spiked willow-herb, sweet-brier, and cherry-tree. Some of these are harmless, others are to a certain degree poisonous; as, for example, are the leaves of all the varieties of the plum and cherry tribe, to which the sloe belongs. Adulteration by means of these leaves is by no means a new species of fraud; and several acts of parliament, from the time of George II., have been passed, specifying severe penalties against those guilty of the offence, which, notwithstanding numerous convictions, continues to the present time.
1797. Chinese tea has often been tampered with in this country by mixing in the dried leaves of certain plants. Leaves from the sloe, hawthorn, ash, elder, and others have been used for this purpose, including the leaves of speedwell, wild germander, black currants, syringa, purple-spiked willow-herb, sweetbriar, and cherry tree. Some of these are harmless, while others can be somewhat toxic; for instance, the leaves from all types of the plum and cherry family, including the sloe. This type of adulteration is not a new idea and several acts of parliament, since the time of George II, have been enacted, imposing severe penalties on those caught committing the offense, which, despite many convictions, continues to this day.
1798. In the purchase of tea, that should be chosen which possesses an agreeable odour and is as whole as possible, in order that the leaf may be easily examined. The greatest care should be taken that it has not been exposed to the air, which destroys its flavour.
1798. When buying tea, choose one that has a pleasant smell and is as whole as possible, so the leaves can be easily inspected. Be sure to take great care that it hasn’t been exposed to the air, as this ruins its flavor.
1799. It would be impossible, in the space at our command, to enumerate the various modes adopted in different countries for "making coffee;" that is, the phrase commonly understood to mean the complete preparation of this delicious beverage for drinking. For performing this operation, such recipes or methods as we have found most practical will be inserted in their proper place; but the following facts connected with coffee will be found highly interesting.
1799. It would be impossible, in the space we have, to list the different ways used in various countries for "making coffee;" that is, the term generally understood to mean fully preparing this delicious drink for consumption. We will include the most practical recipes or methods in their appropriate sections; however, the following facts related to coffee will be found very interesting.
1800. The introduction of coffee into this country is comparatively of recent date. We are assured by Bruce that the coffee-tree is a native of Abyssinia, and it is said to have been cultivated in that country from time immemorial.
1800. The introduction of coffee to this country is relatively recent. Bruce tells us that the coffee tree originates from Abyssinia, and it is believed to have been grown there for ages.
1801. It appears that coffee was first introduced into England by Daniel Edwards, a Turkey merchant, whose servant, Pasqua, a Greek, understood the manner of roasting it. This servant, under the patronage of Edwards, established the first coffee-house in London, in George Yard, Lombard Street. Coffee was then sold at four or five guineas a pound, and a duty was soon afterwards laid upon it of fourpence a gallon, when made into a beverage. In the course of two centuries, however, this berry, unknown originally as an article of food, except to some savage tribes on the confines of Abyssinia, has made its way through the whole of the civilized world. Mahommedans of all ranks drink coffee twice a day; it is in universal request in France; and the demand for it throughout the British isles is daily increasing, the more especially since so much attention has been given to mechanical contrivances for roasting and grinding the berry and preparing the beverage.
1801. Coffee was first brought to England by Daniel Edwards, a merchant from Turkey. His servant, Pasqua, a Greek, knew how to roast it. With Edwards' support, he opened the first coffee house in London, located in George Yard, Lombard Street. At the time, coffee sold for four or five guineas per pound, and shortly after, a tax of fourpence per gallon was imposed when it was made into a drink. Over the next two centuries, this berry, which was initially only known as a food source to a few remote tribes on the outskirts of Abyssinia, spread throughout the entire civilized world. Muslims of all classes drink coffee twice a day; it is very popular in France; and demand for it in the British Isles is growing every day, especially since there has been a lot of focus on inventions for roasting, grinding the beans, and preparing the drink.
1802. Of the various kinds of coffee the Arabian is considered the best. It is grown chiefly in the districts of Aden and Mocha; whence the name of our Mocha coffee. Mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean than any other, and likewise a more agreeable smell and taste. The next in reputation and quality is the Java and Ceylon coffee, and then the coffees of Bourbon and Martinique, and that of Berbice, a district of the colony of British Guiana. The Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees are less esteemed.
1802. Among the different types of coffee, Arabian coffee is regarded as the best. It primarily comes from the areas of Aden and Mocha, which is how our Mocha coffee got its name. Mocha coffee has smaller, rounder beans than any other variety, along with a more pleasant aroma and flavor. Following in reputation and quality are Java and Ceylon coffees, then the coffees from Bourbon and Martinique, and those from Berbice, a region in British Guiana. Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees are considered less desirable.
1803. A considerable change takes place in the arrangement of the constituents of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it. Independently of one of the objects of roasting, namely, that of destroying its toughness and rendering it easily ground, its tannin and other principles are rendered partly soluble in water; and it is to the tannin that the brown colour of the decoction of coffee is owing. An aromatic flavour is likewise developed during torrefaction, which is not perceived in the raw berry, and which is not produced in the greatest perfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree of temperature; but, if the heat be increased beyond this, the flavour is again dissipated, and little remains but a bitter and astringent matter with carbon.
1803. A significant change occurs in the makeup of coffee when it’s roasted. Besides one goal of roasting, which is to break down its toughness and make it easier to grind, the tannin and other components become partially soluble in water. The brown color of brewed coffee comes from the tannin. An aromatic flavor also develops during roasting that isn’t present in the raw bean, and it’s optimized only when the heat reaches a specific level. However, if the heat goes too high, the flavor fades, leaving mostly a bitter and astringent substance mixed with carbon.
1804. The roasting of coffee in the best manner requires great nicety, and much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation. The roasting of coffee for the dealers in London and Paris has now become a separate branch of business, and some of the roasters perform the operation on a great scale, with considerable skill. Roasted coffee loses from 20 to 30 per cent, by sufficient roasting, and the powder suffers much by exposure to the air; but, while raw, it not only does not lose its flavour for a year or two, but improves by keeping. If a cup of the best coffee be placed upon a table boiling hot, it will fill the room with its fragrance; but the coffee, when warmed again after being cold, will be found to have lost most of its flavour.
1804. Properly roasting coffee requires great attention to detail, and a lot of the beverage's quality depends on the process. In London and Paris, coffee roasting has become a distinct business, with some roasters operating on a large scale and demonstrating significant expertise. Roasted coffee can lose between 20 to 30 percent during adequate roasting, and the ground coffee loses much of its quality when exposed to air; however, while unroasted, it not only retains its flavor for one to two years but also improves with storage. If a cup of the best coffee is placed on a table piping hot, it will fill the room with its aroma; however, when coffee that has cooled is reheated, it will have lost most of its flavor.
1805. To have coffee in perfection, it should be roasted and ground just before it is used, and more should not be ground at a time than is wanted for immediate use, or, if it be necessary to grind more, it should be kept closed from the air. Coffee readily imbibes exhalations from other substances, and thus often acquires a bad flavour: brown sugar placed near it will communicate a disagreeable flavour. It is stated that the coffee in the West Indies has often been injured by being laid in rooms near the sugar-works, or where rum is distilled; and the same effect has been produced by bringing over coffee in the same ships with rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley mentions that a few bags of pepper, on board a ship from India, spoiled a whole cargo of coffee.
1805. To brew the perfect cup of coffee, it should be roasted and ground just before you use it, and you shouldn't grind more than needed for immediate use. If you have to grind extra, keep it sealed off from the air. Coffee easily absorbs odors from other things and can end up tasting bad: for example, if brown sugar is nearby, it can give the coffee an unpleasant flavor. It's said that coffee in the West Indies has often been damaged because it was stored in rooms next to sugar factories or rum distilleries; the same issue happens when coffee is transported on ships that also carry rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley notes that just a few bags of pepper on a ship from India ruined an entire shipment of coffee.
1806. With respect to the quantity of coffee used in making the decoction, much depends upon the taste of the consumer. The greatest and most common fault in English coffee is the too small quantity of the ingredient. Count Rumford says that to make good coffee for drinking after dinner, a pound of good Mocha coffee, which, when roasted and ground, weighs only thirteen ounces, serves to make fifty-six full cups, or a little less than a quarter of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderate size.
1806. When it comes to the amount of coffee used in brewing, it really depends on the preferences of the drinker. The biggest and most common mistake in English coffee is not using enough of the ingredient. Count Rumford states that to make good coffee for after dinner, a pound of quality Mocha coffee, which weighs just thirteen ounces once roasted and ground, can make fifty-six full cups, or just under a quarter of an ounce for a moderately sized coffee cup.
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.
1807. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 1/2 oz. of chocolate to each person; to every oz. allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of milk.
1807. INGREDIENTS.—Use 1/2 ounce of chocolate for each person; for every ounce, use 1/2 pint of water and 1/2 pint of milk.
Mode.—Make the milk-and-water hot; scrape the chocolate into it, and stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate is dissolved; bring it to the boiling-point, stir it well, and serve directly with white sugar. Chocolate prepared with in a mill, as shown in the engraving, is made by putting in the scraped chocolate, pouring over it the boiling milk-and-water, and milling it over the fire until hot and frothy.
Mode.—Heat the milk and water; grate the chocolate into it, and stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate dissolves; bring it to a boil, stir it well, and serve immediately with white sugar. Chocolate prepared in a mill, as shown in the engraving, is made by adding the grated chocolate, pouring the boiling milk and water over it, and milling it over the fire until hot and frothy.
Sufficient.—Allow 1/2 oz. of cake chocolate to each person.
Sufficient.—Allow 0.5 oz. of cake chocolate for each person.
[Illustration: MILL.]
[Illustration: MILL.]
CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.—Both these preparations are made from the seeds or beans of the cacao-tree, which grows in the West Indies and South America. The Spanish, and the proper name, is cacao, not cocoa, as it is generally spelt. From this mistake, the tree from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the produce of the cocoa-tree (Cocos nucifera), whereas the tree from which chocolate is procured is very different (the Theobroma cacao). The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the aboriginal inhabitants of South America, particularly in Mexico, where, according to Humboldt, it was reared by Montezuma. It was transplanted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish monarchy in 1520; and it was so highly esteemed by Linnaeus receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of Theobroma, a term derived from the Greek, and signifying "food for gods." Chocolate has always been a favourite beverage among the Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered here as a great luxury when first introduced, after the discovery of America; but the high duties laid upon it, confined it long almost entirely to the wealthier classes. Before it was subjected to duty, Mr. Bryan Edwards stated that cocoa plantations were numerous in Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin. The removal of this duty has increased their cultivation. (For engraving of cocoa-bean, see No. 1816.)
CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.—Both of these products come from the seeds or beans of the cacao tree, which grows in the West Indies and South America. The correct name is cacao, not cocoa, as it is often mistakenly spelled. This error has led to confusion between the tree that produces the beverage and the palm that yields edible coconuts, which comes from the cocoa tree (Cocos nucifera), while the tree that produces chocolate is quite different (the Theobroma cacao). The cocoa tree was cultivated by the indigenous peoples of South America, especially in Mexico, where, according to Humboldt, Montezuma cared for it. It was transplanted to other Spanish colonies in 1520; it was so highly regarded by Linnaeus that he gave it the name Theobroma, a term derived from Greek meaning "food for gods." Chocolate has always been a popular drink among Spaniards and Creoles and was seen as a great luxury when it was first introduced after the discovery of America. However, high taxes on it meant that it was mostly consumed by the wealthy. Before duties were imposed, Mr. Bryan Edwards noted that cocoa plantations were plentiful in Jamaica, but the tax led to their near-total downfall. The removal of this tax has boosted their cultivation. (For an engraving of the cocoa bean, see No. 1816.)
TO MAKE ESSENCE OF COFFEE.
1808. INGREDIENTS.—To every 1/4 lb. of ground coffee allow 1 small teaspoonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or 1 pint, of water.
1808. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1/4 lb. of ground coffee, use 1 small teaspoon of powdered chicory and 3 small teacups (or 1 pint) of water.
Mode.—Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly roasted; put it into a percolater, or filter, with the chicory, and pour slowly over it the above proportion of boiling water. When it has all filtered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil; then filter it a second time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it will remain good for several days. Two tablespoonfuls of this essence are quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. This essence will be found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremely early; and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily and quickly prepared. When the essence is bottled, pour another 3 tea-cupfuls of boiling water slowly on the grounds, which, when filtered through, will be a very weak coffee. The next time there is essence to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the ground coffee instead of plain water: by this means a better coffee will be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without having made use of them in this manner; and always cork the bottle well that contains this preparation, until the day that it is wanted for making the fresh essence.
Method.—Use freshly ground coffee, and if possible, freshly roasted too. Put it into a percolator or filter along with the chicory, and slowly pour the recommended amount of boiling water over it. Once it has all filtered through, warm the coffee just enough to bring it to a simmer, but do not let it boil; then filter it a second time, pour it into a clean, dry bottle, cork it tightly, and it will stay good for several days. Two tablespoons of this essence are enough for a breakfast cup of hot milk. This essence is especially useful for those who need to get up very early; with just the milk needing to be boiled, it’s easy and quick to prepare. After bottling the essence, pour another 3 cups of boiling water slowly over the grounds, which will produce a very weak coffee when filtered. The next time you prepare the essence, boil this weak coffee and pour it over the ground coffee instead of using plain water: this will yield a better coffee. Never discard the grounds without making use of them like this; and always cork the bottle containing this preparation tightly until you need it to make the fresh essence.
Time.—To be filtered once, then brought to the boiling-point, and filtered again.
Time.—Filter it once, then heat it to boiling, and filter it again.
Average cost, with coffee at 1s. 8d. per lb., 6d.
Average cost, with coffee at 1s. 8d. per lb., 6d.
Sufficient'-Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk.
Sufficient'-Use 2 tablespoons for a breakfast cup of hot milk.
TO ROAST COFFEE.
(A French Recipe.)
(A French Recipe.)
1809. It being an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedly superior to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is of great importance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be useful and interesting to know how they manage these things in France. In Paris, there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of their coffee,—La Maison Corcellet and La Maison Royer de Chartres; and to obtain this flavour, before roasting they add to every 3 lbs. of coffee a piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar: it is then roasted in the usual manner. The addition of the butter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry; but it must be borne in mind, that the quality of the butter must be of the very best description.
1809. It's widely acknowledged that French coffee is definitely better than what’s made in England, and since the roasting process is crucial for the flavor, it’s useful and interesting to see how they do it in France. In Paris, there are two places renowned for their coffee flavor—La Maison Corcellet and La Maison Royer de Chartres; to achieve this flavor, they add a piece of butter the size of a walnut and a dessert spoonful of powdered sugar to every 3 lbs. of coffee before roasting it in the usual way. The butter and sugar enhance the flavor and aroma of the beans, but it's important to note that the quality of the butter must be top-notch.
TO MAKE COFFEE.
1810. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 4 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of ground coffee to each person; to every oz. of coffee allow 1/3 pint of water.
1810. INGREDIENTS.—Use 4 oz. or 1 tablespoon of ground coffee for each person; for every ounce of coffee, use 1/3 pint of water.
Mode.—To make coffee good, it should never be boiled, but the boiling water merely poured on it, the same as for tea. The coffee should always be purchased in the berry,—if possible, freshly roasted; and it should never be ground long before it is wanted for use. There are very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making the coffee is nearly always the same; namely, pouring the boiling water on the powder, and allowing it to filter through. Our illustration shows one of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted for making good and clear coffee, which should be made in the following, manner:—Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and movable filter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put the movable filter over this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly on the end of the centre pipe. Pour into the inverted lid the above proportion of boiling water, and when all the water so poured has disappeared from the funnel, and made its way down the centre pipe and up again through the ground coffee by hydrostatic pressure, unscrew screw the lid and cover the urn. Pour back direct into the urn, not through the funnel, one, two, or three cups, according to the size of the percolater, in order to make the infusion of uniform strength; the contents will then be ready for use, and should run from the tap strong, hot, and clear. The coffee made in these urns generally turns out very good, and there is but one objection to them,—the coffee runs rather slowly from the tap. This is of no consequence where there is a small party, but tedious where there are many persons to provide for. A remedy for this objection may be suggested; namely, to make the coffee very strong, so that not more than 1/3 of a cup would be required, as the rest would be filled up with milk. Making coffee in filters or percolaters does away with the necessity of using isinglass, white of egg, and various other preparations to clear it. Coffee should always be served very hot, and, if possible, in the same vessel in which it is made, as pouring it from one pot to another cools, and consequently spoils it. Many persons may think that the proportion of water we have given for each oz. of coffee is rather small; it is so, and the coffee produced from it will be very strong; 1/3 of a cup will be found quite sufficient, which should be filled with nice hot milk, or milk and cream mixed. This is the 'cafe au lait' for which our neighbours over the Channel are so justly celebrated. Should the ordinary method of making coffee be preferred, use double the quantity of water, and, in pouring it into the cups, put in more coffee and less milk.
Method.—To brew good coffee, it should never be boiled; instead, boiling water should be poured over it, just like with tea. Always buy coffee in the whole bean form — ideally freshly roasted; it should not be ground long before you plan to use it. There are many modern coffee makers available, but the basic method is usually the same: pour boiling water over the grounds and let it filter through. Our illustration shows one of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are excellent for making good, clear coffee, prepared as follows: Warm the urn with boiling water, take off the lid and the movable filter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put the movable filter on top and screw the lid, upside down, tightly onto the end of the central pipe. Pour the right amount of boiling water into the inverted lid, and once all the water has disappeared from the funnel and has traveled down the central pipe, rising back up through the ground coffee due to hydrostatic pressure, unscrew the lid and cover the urn. Pour back directly into the urn, not through the funnel, one, two, or three cups' worth, depending on the size of the percolator, to ensure the infusion is consistently strong; the contents will then be ready to serve, and should flow from the tap strong, hot, and clear. Coffee made in these urns typically turns out quite good, and the only downside is that the coffee dispenses rather slowly from the tap. This isn't an issue for small gatherings, but can be tedious when serving a larger group. One solution could be to brew the coffee extra strong, so that only 1/3 of a cup is needed, with the rest filled with milk. Using filters or percolators eliminates the need for isinglass, egg white, and other clarifying methods. Coffee should always be served piping hot, and if possible, in the same container in which it was brewed, as transferring it to another pot cools it down and ruins the flavor. Some might think that the water ratio provided for each ounce of coffee is a bit small; it is, and the resulting coffee will be very strong. 1/3 of a cup should be plenty, which can be filled with nice hot milk or a mix of milk and cream. This is the 'café au lait' for which our friends across the Channel are rightly famous. If you prefer the traditional method of making coffee, use double the amount of water, and when pouring into cups, add more coffee and use less milk.
[Illustration: LOYSEL'S HYDROSTATIC URN.]
[Illustration: LOYSEL'S HYDROSTATIC URN.]
Sufficient.—For very good coffee, allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, to each person.
Sufficient.—For great coffee, use 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoon, for each person.
A VERY SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE.
1811. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of coffee to each person; to every oz. allow 1 pint of water.
1811. INGREDIENTS.—Use 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoon, of coffee for each person; for every oz., use 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot inside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for the purpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some boiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the ground coffee into the bag; pour over as much boiling water as is required, close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove the bag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner prevents the necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which cools and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee gradually, so that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made, that none of the grounds may escape through the seams, and so make the coffee thick and muddy.
Mode.—Have a small iron ring made to fit inside the top of the coffee pot, and sew a small muslin bag to this ring (the muslin shouldn't be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour in some boiling water to warm it up, and once the pot is heated, add the ground coffee into the bag. Pour over as much boiling water as needed, close the lid, and when all the water has filtered through, remove the bag and serve the coffee. This method eliminates the need to pour the coffee from one container to another, which cools and spoils it. The water should be poured over the coffee gradually to make a stronger brew, and the bag must be well-made so that no coffee grounds escape through the seams, making the coffee thick and muddy.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 tablespoonful, or 1/2 oz., to each person.
Sufficient.—Give 1 tablespoon, or 1/2 oz., for each person.
[Illustration: COFFEE.]
[Illustration: COFFEE.]
THE COFFEE PLANT grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen feet, with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel, although more pointed, and not so dry and thick. The blossoms are white, much like those of jasmine, and issue from the angles of the leaf-stalks. When the flowers fade, they are succeeded by the coffee-bean, or seed, which is inclosed in a berry of a red colour, when ripe resembling a cherry. The coffee-beans are prepared by exposing them to the sun for a few days, that the pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture. They are then gradually dried for about three weeks, and put into a mill to separate the husk from the seed.
THE COFFEE PLANT grows to about twelve to fifteen feet tall, with leaves somewhat similar to those of the common laurel, but more pointed and not as dry or thick. The flowers are white, resembling those of jasmine, and grow from the angles of the leaf stalks. After the flowers fade, they are replaced by the coffee bean, or seed, which is enclosed in a red berry that, when ripe, looks like a cherry. The coffee beans are processed by drying them in the sun for a few days to let the pulp ferment and release a strong acidic moisture. They are then gradually dried for about three weeks and put into a mill to separate the husk from the seed.
CAFE AU LAIT.
1812. This is merely very strong coffee added to a large proportion of good hot milk; about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee being quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk. Of the essence No. 1808, which answers admirably for 'cafe an lait', so much would not be required. This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak watery coffee so often served at English tables. A little cream mixed with the milk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, improves the taste of the coffee, as also the richness of the beverage.
1812. This is just very strong coffee mixed with a large amount of good hot milk; about 6 tablespoons of strong coffee is enough for a breakfast cup of milk. You wouldn’t need as much of essence No. 1808, which works perfectly for 'cafe au lait'. This preparation is far better than the weak, watery coffee that’s so often served at English tables. Adding a little cream to the milk, if the milk isn’t rich enough, enhances the flavor of the coffee and the richness of the drink.
Sufficient.—6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of the essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk.
Sufficient.—6 tablespoons of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoons of the essence, to a breakfast cup of milk.
TEA AND COFFEE.—It is true, says Liebig, that thousands have lived without a knowledge of tea and coffee; and daily experience teaches us that, under certain circumstances, they may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal functions; but it is an error, certainly, to conclude from this that they may be altogether dispensed with in reference to their effects; and it is a question whether, if we had no tea and no coffee, the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the means of replacing them. Science, which accuses us of so much in these respects, will have, in the first place, to ascertain whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely, that every people of the globe have appropriated some such means of acting on the nervous life, from the shore of the Pacific, where the Indian retires from life for days in order to enjoy the bliss of intoxication with koko, to the Arctic regions, where Kamtschatdales and Koriakes prepare an intoxicating beverage from a poisonous mushroom. We think it, on the contrary, highly probable, not to say certain, that the instinct of man, feeling certain blanks, certain wants of the intensified life of our times, which cannot be satisfied or filled up by mere quantity, has discovered, in these products of vegetable life the true means of giving to his food the desired and necessary quality.
TEA AND COFFEE.—It’s true, says Liebig, that many people have lived without ever knowing about tea and coffee; and daily experiences show us that, in certain situations, they can be skipped without negatively impacting basic bodily functions. However, it’s definitely a mistake to conclude that we can completely do away with them regarding their effects. The real question is whether, if we had no tea and no coffee, people wouldn’t naturally find and create alternatives. Science, which often criticizes us in this area, must first determine whether it’s solely based on our sensory and indulgent desires that every culture around the world has developed some way to influence their nervous system—from the Pacific shores where locals retreat for days to indulge in the high that comes from koko, to the Arctic regions where the Kamtschatdales and Koriakes make an intoxicating drink from a toxic mushroom. On the other hand, we believe it’s highly likely, if not certain, that human instinct, sensing certain voids and needs in our intensified modern life that can’t be fulfilled by mere quantity, has identified these plant-based products as the true means to enhance the quality of our food.
CAFE NOIR.
1813. This is usually handed round after dinner, and should be drunk well sweetened, with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs, which may be added or not at pleasure. The coffee should be made very strong, and served in very small cups, but never mixed with milk or cream. Cafe noir may be made of the essence of coffee No. 1808, by pouring a tablespoonful into each cup, and filling it up with boiling water. This is a very simple and expeditious manner of preparing coffee for a large party, but the essence for it must be made very good, and kept well corked until required for use.
1813. This is usually passed around after dinner and should be enjoyed well sweetened, with a splash of brandy or liqueurs, which can be added according to taste. The coffee needs to be really strong and served in very small cups, but should never be mixed with milk or cream. Cafe noir can be made from the essence of coffee No. 1808 by pouring a tablespoon into each cup and topping it off with boiling water. This is a quick and easy way to prepare coffee for a large group, but the essence must be made very well and stored properly with the cork in until it’s needed.
TO MAKE TEA.
1814. There is very little art in making good tea; if the water is boiling, and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, the beverage will almost invariably be good. The old-fashioned plan of allowing a teaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still practised. Warm the teapot with boiling water; let it remain for two or three minutes for the vessel to become thoroughly hot, then pour it away. Put in the tea, pour in from 1/2 to 3/4 pint of boiling water, close the lid, and let it stand for the tea to draw from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the pot with water. The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is actually 'boiling', as the leaves will not open, and the flavour not be extracted from them; the beverage will consequently be colourless and tasteless,—in fact, nothing but tepid water. Where there is a very large party to make tea for, it is a good plan to have two teapots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot; the tea, besides, will go farther. When the infusion has been once completed, the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength; so, when more is required, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, and fresh tea made in the usual manner. Economists say that a few grains of carbonate of soda, added before the boiling water is poured on the tea, assist to draw out the goodness: if the water is very hard, perhaps it is a good plan, as the soda softens it; but care must be taken to use this ingredient sparingly, as it is liable to give the tea a soapy taste if added in too large a quantity. For mixed tea, the usual proportion is four spoonfuls of black to one of green; more of the latter when the flavour is very much liked; but strong green tea is highly pernicious, and should never be partaken of too freely.
1814. Making good tea isn’t very complicated; as long as the water is boiling and you use plenty of fragrant leaves, the drink will almost always turn out well. The old method of using a teaspoonful for each person, plus one extra, is still used. Start by warming the teapot with boiling water; let it sit for two or three minutes so it gets really hot, then pour the water out. Add the tea, pour in about 1/2 to 3/4 of a pint of boiling water, close the lid, and let it steep for 5 to 10 minutes; then fill the pot with more water. The tea will be ruined if it's made with anything less than boiling water, as the leaves won’t open properly and the flavor won’t be extracted; the result will be colorless and tasteless—basically just lukewarm water. For larger gatherings, it’s better to use two teapots instead of trying to make a lot of tea in one; this way, the tea will stretch further. Once the infusion is made, adding fresh tea doesn’t really strengthen it much anymore, so if you want more, you should empty the old leaves, rinse the pot, and prepare fresh tea as usual. Economists suggest that adding a few grains of baking soda before pouring in the boiling water can help bring out the flavor: if the water is hard, this can be a good idea since the soda softens it; but it’s important to use this ingredient sparingly, as too much can make the tea taste soapy. For mixed tea, the standard ratio is four spoonfuls of black tea to one of green; you can use more green if you really enjoy the flavor, but strong green tea can be quite harmful and should never be consumed too freely.
Time.—2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 minutes to draw the strength from the tea.
Time.—2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 minutes to steep the tea.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 teaspoonful to each person, and one over.
Sufficient.—Give 1 teaspoon to each person, plus one extra.
TEA.—The tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of Monadelphia polyandria in the Linnaean system, and to the natural order of Aurantiaceae in the system of Jussieu. Lately it has been made into a new order, the Theasia, which includes the Camellia and some other plants. It commonly grows to the height of from three to six feet; but it is said, that, in its wild or native state, it reaches twenty feet or more. In China it is cultivated in numerous small plantations. In its general appearance, and the form of its leaf, it resembles the myrtle. The blossoms are white and fragrant, not unlike those of the wild rose, but smaller; and they are succeeded by soft green capsules, containing each from one to three white seeds. These capsules are crushed for oil, which is in general use in China.
TEA.—The tea tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of Monadelphia polyandria in the Linnaean system and to the natural order of Aurantiaceae in the Jussieu system. Recently, it has been classified into a new order, Theasia, which includes the Camellia and some other plants. It typically grows to a height of three to six feet, but in its wild or native state, it can reach twenty feet or more. In China, it's cultivated in many small plantations. In general appearance and leaf shape, it resembles the myrtle. The flowers are white and fragrant, similar to those of the wild rose but smaller; they are followed by soft green capsules, each containing one to three white seeds. These capsules are crushed for oil, which is widely used in China.
[Illustration: TEA.]
[Illustration: TEA.]
AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM IN TEA OR COFFEE.
1815. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 1 new-laid egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee.
1815. INGREDIENTS.—Use 1 fresh egg for every large cup of tea or coffee.
Mode.—Beat up the whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a cup (or a portion of it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea or coffee very hot. These should be added very gradually, and stirred all the time, to prevent the egg from curdling. In point of nourishment, both these beverages are much improved by this addition.
Mode.—Whisk the entire egg in a bowl, then pour it into a cup (or part of it if the cup is small), and gradually add very hot tea or coffee while continuously stirring to prevent the egg from curdling. Nutritionally, both of these drinks are greatly enhanced by this addition.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee.
Sufficient.—Use 1 egg for every large cup of tea or coffee.
TO MAKE COCOA.
1816. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to 1 breakfast-cup; boiling milk and boiling water.
1816. INGREDIENTS.—Use 2 teaspoons of the prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast cup; boiling milk and boiling water.
[Illustration: COCOA-BEAN.]
[Illustration: COCOA-BEAN.]
Mode.—Put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour over it sufficient cold milk to make it into a smooth paste; then add equal quantities of boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all well together. Care must be taken not to allow the milk to get burnt, as it will entirely spoil the flavour of the preparation. The above directions are usually given for making the prepared cocoa. The rock cocoa, or that bought in a solid piece, should be scraped, and made in the same manner, taking care to rub down all the lumps before the boiling liquid is added.
Method.—Place the cocoa in a breakfast cup, then pour enough cold milk over it to create a smooth paste. Next, add equal amounts of boiling milk and boiling water, and mix everything together well. Be careful not to let the milk burn, as it will ruin the flavor of the mixture. These instructions are normally provided for preparing the cocoa. If using solid rock cocoa, it should be grated and prepared in the same way, making sure to break up any lumps before adding the boiling liquid.
Sufficient—2 teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast-cup, or 1/4 oz. of the rock cocoa for the same quantity.
Sufficient—2 teaspoons of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast cup, or 1/4 oz. of rock cocoa for the same amount.
COWSLIP WINE.
1817. INGREDIENTS.—To every gallon of water allow 3 lbs. of lump sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and juice of 1 Seville orange, 1 gallon of cowslip pips. To every 4-1/2 gallons of wine allow 1 bottle of brandy.
1817. INGREDIENTS.—For every gallon of water, use 3 lbs. of lump sugar, the zest of 2 lemons, the juice of 1 lemon, the zest and juice of 1 Seville orange, and 1 gallon of cowslip pips. For every 4-1/2 gallons of wine, add 1 bottle of brandy.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 1/2 hour, carefully removing all the scum as it rises. Pour this boiling liquor on the orange and lemon-rinds, and the juice, which should be strained; when milk-warm, add the cowslip pips or flowers, picked from the stalks and seeds; and to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good fresh brewers' yeast. Let it ferment 3 or 4 days; then put all together in a cask with the brandy, and let it remain for 2 months, when bottle it off for use.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 30 minutes, carefully skimming off any foam that forms. Pour this boiling mixture over the orange and lemon peels and the strained juice. When it's warm to the touch, add the cowslip seeds or flowers, separated from the stems and seeds. For 9 gallons of wine, use 3 tablespoons of good fresh brewer's yeast. Let it ferment for 3 to 4 days; then combine everything in a cask with the brandy and let it sit for 2 months before bottling it for use.
Time.—To be boiled 1/2 hour; to ferment 3 or 4 days; to remain in the cask 2 months.
Time.—Boil for 30 minutes; let it ferment for 3 or 4 days; keep it in the cask for 2 months.
Average cost, exclusive of the cowslips, which may be picked in the fields, 2s. 9d. per gallon.
Average cost, not including the cowslips, which can be gathered in the fields, £0.14 per gallon.
Seasonable.—Make this in April or May.
Seasonable.—Make this in April or May.
ELDER WINE.
1818. INGREDIENTS.—To every 3 gallons of water allow 1 peck of elderberries; to every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs. of sugar, 1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb. of good Turkey raisins; 1/2 pint of brandy to every gallon of wine. To every 9 gallons of wine 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast.
1818. INGREDIENTS.—For every 3 gallons of water, use 1 peck of elderberries; for every gallon of juice, add 3 lbs. of sugar, 1/2 oz. of ground ginger, 6 cloves, and 1 lb. of quality Turkey raisins; include 1/2 pint of brandy for every gallon of wine. For every 9 gallons of wine, use 3 or 4 tablespoons of fresh brewer's yeast.
Mode.—Pour the water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, which should be picked from the stalks, and let these stand covered for 24 hours; then strain the whole through a sieve or bag, breaking the fruit to express all the juice from it. Measure the liquor, and to every gallon allow the above proportion of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar with the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the liquor the whole time; let it stand until milk-warm, then put it into a clean dry cask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every 9 gallons of wine. Let it ferment for about a fortnight; then add the brandy, bung up the cask, and let it stand some months before it is bottled, when it will be found excellent. A bunch of hops suspended to a string from the bung, some persons say, will preserve the wine good for several years. Elder wine is usually mulled, and served with sippets of toasted bread and a little grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Pour boiling water over the elderberries, which should be picked from the stems, and let them sit covered for 24 hours. Then strain everything through a sieve or bag, crushing the fruit to extract all the juice. Measure the liquid, and for every gallon, add the appropriate amount of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar along with the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the liquid continuously. Let it cool until it's warm, then transfer it to a clean, dry cask, adding 3 or 4 tablespoons of good fresh yeast for every 9 gallons of wine. Allow it to ferment for about two weeks; then add the brandy, seal the cask, and let it sit for several months before bottling, at which point it will taste excellent. Some people suggest suspending a bunch of hops from a string in the bung to keep the wine good for several years. Elder wine is typically mulled and served with toasted bread slices and a bit of grated nutmeg.
Time.—To stand covered 24 hours; to be boiled 1 hour.
Time.—To stay covered for 24 hours; to boil for 1 hour.
Average cost, when made at home, 3s. 6d. per gallon.
Average cost, when made at home, £0.17.
Seasonable.—Make this in September.
Seasonal.—Make this in September.
[Illustration: ELDER-BERRIES.]
[Illustration: ELDERBERRIES.]
ELDER-BERRY WINE.—The elder-berry is well adapted for the production of wine; its juice contains a considerable portion of the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and therefore demands an addition of sugar. It is one of the very best of the genuine old English wines; and a cup of it mulled, just previous to retiring to bed on a winter night, is a thing to be "run for," as Cobbett would say: it is not, however, agreeable to every taste.
ELDER-BERRY WINE.—Elderberry is great for making wine; its juice has a good amount of the essential elements needed for strong fermentation, and its beautiful color gives a rich hue to the wine. However, it lacks sweetness, so you need to add sugar. It’s one of the finest of the classic old English wines; a cup of it warmed up just before going to bed on a winter night is something really special, as Cobbett would say. That said, it doesn't suit everyone's taste.
GINGER WINE.
1819. INGREDIENTS.—To 9 gallons of water allow 27 lbs. of loaf sugar, 9 lemons, 12 oz. of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 lbs. of raisins stoned and chopped, 1 pint of brandy.
1819. INGREDIENTS.—For 9 gallons of water, use 27 lbs. of granulated sugar, 9 lemons, 12 oz. of crushed ginger, 3 tablespoons of yeast, 2 lbs. of pitted and chopped raisins, and 1 pint of brandy.
Mode.—Boil together for 1 hour in a copper (let it previously be well scoured and beautifully clean) the water, sugar, lemon-rinds, and bruised ginger; remove every particle of scum as it rises, and when the liquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a large tub or pan, as it must not remain in the copper. When nearly cold, add the yeast, which must be thick and very fresh, and, the next day, put all in a dry cask with the strained lemon-juice and chopped raisins. Stir the wine every day for a fortnight; then add the brandy, stop the cask down by degrees, and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle.
Method.—Boil together for 1 hour in a clean copper pot the water, sugar, lemon peels, and crushed ginger; remove any scum as it appears, and when the mixture is boiled enough, transfer it to a large tub or pan, as it should not stay in the copper. When it’s nearly cool, add fresh and thick yeast, and the next day, pour everything into a dry barrel along with the strained lemon juice and chopped raisins. Stir the wine daily for two weeks; then add the brandy, gradually seal the barrel, and in a few weeks it will be ready to bottle.
Average cost, 2s. per gallon. Sufficient to make 9 gallons of wine.
Average cost, £0.02 per gallon. Enough to make 9 gallons of wine.
Seasonable.—The best time for making this wine is either in March or September.
Seasonable.—The best times to make this wine are in March or September.
Note.—Wine made early in March will be fit to bottle in June.
Note.—Wine made in early March will be ready to bottle by June.
GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.
(An Excellent Recipe.)
(An Amazing Recipe.)
1820. INGREDIENTS.—2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of water, 12 lbs. of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality.
1820. INGREDIENTS.—2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of water, 12 lbs. of rough brown sugar.
Mode.—Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in a tub with a mallet; put to them the water nearly milk-warm; let this stand 24 hours; then strain it through a sieve, and put the sugar to it; mix it well, and tun it. These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask; and if it be not quite full, more water must be added. Let the mixture be stirred from the bottom of the cask two or three times daily for three or four days, to assist the melting of the sugar; then paste a piece of linen cloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, but not in the sun; any corner of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it. The following spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles, and the vinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made. This will be found a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine vinegar. Many years' experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. The cost per gallon is merely nominal, especially to those who reside in the country and grow their own gooseberries; the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to be purchased.
Mode.—Smash the gooseberries (they should be fully ripe) in a tub with a mallet; add water that’s nearly warm like milk; let it sit for 24 hours; then strain it through a sieve and add the sugar; mix it well and transfer it. These amounts are for a 9-gallon cask; if it isn’t quite full, add more water. Stir the mixture from the bottom of the cask a couple of times each day for three or four days to help dissolve the sugar; then cover the bunghole with a piece of linen cloth and place the cask in a warm spot, but not in direct sunlight; a corner of a warm kitchen is the best option. The following spring, it should be transferred into stone bottles, and the vinegar will be ready to use twelve months after it’s made. This will be a fantastic preparation, far better than most of what’s sold as the best white wine vinegar. Many years of experience have shown that pickles made with this vinegar will last, while store-bought vinegar won’t preserve the ingredients. The cost per gallon is minimal, especially for those living in the country who grow their own gooseberries; the only ingredient to buy is the coarse sugar.
Time.—To remain in the cask 9 months.
Time.—Stay in the barrel for 9 months.
Average cost, when the gooseberries have to be purchased, 1s. per gallon; when they are grown at home, 6d. per gallon.
Average cost, when the gooseberries need to be bought, £0.05 per gallon; when they are grown at home, £0.03 per gallon.
Seasonable.—This should be made the end of June or the beginning of July, when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful.
Seasonable.—This should be done at the end of June or the beginning of July, when gooseberries are ripe and abundant.
EFFERVESCING GOOSEBERRY WINE.
1821. INGREDIENTS.—To every gallon of water allow 6 lbs. of green gooseberries, 3 lbs. of lump sugar.
1821. INGREDIENTS.—For every gallon of water, use 6 lbs. of green gooseberries and 3 lbs. of lump sugar.
Mode.—This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in order to avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine when in a mature state. Its briskness depends more upon the time of bottling than upon the unripe state of the fruit, for effervescing wine can be made from fruit that is ripe as well as that which is unripe. The fruit should be selected when it has nearly attained its full growth, and consequently before it shows any tendency to ripen. Any bruised or decayed berries, and those that are very small, should be rejected. The blossom and stalk ends should be removed, and the fruit well bruised in a tub or pan, in such quantities as to insure each berry being broken without crushing the seeds. Pour the water (which should be warm) on the fruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all the pulp is removed from the skin and seeds, and cover the whole closely for 24 hours; after which, strain it through a coarse bag, and press it with as much force as can be conveniently applied, to extract the whole of the juice and liquor the fruit may contain. To every 40 or 50 lbs. of fruit one gallon more of hot water may be passed through the marc, or husks, in order to obtain any soluble matter that may remain, and be again pressed. The juice should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all of it, and the sugar added to it. Let it be well stirred until the sugar is dissolved, and place the pan in a warm situation; keep it closely covered, and let it ferment for a day or two. It must then be drawn off into clean casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that arises to be thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining "must," that should be reserved for that purpose. When the active fermentation has ceased, the casks should be plugged upright, again filled, if necessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, after a few days, when the fermentation is a little more languid (which may be known, by the hissing noise ceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight, and a spile-hole made, to give vent if necessary. About November or December, on a clear fine day, the wine should he racked from its lees into clean casks, which may be rinsed with brandy. After a month, it should be examined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling; if not, it must be fined with isinglass, which may be dissolved in some of the wine: 1 oz. will be sufficient for 9 gallons. In March or April, or when the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the wine must be bottled, in order to insure its being effervescing.
Mode.—This wine should be made using unripe gooseberries to avoid the flavor that ripe fruit would add to the wine. The crispness of the wine relies more on the timing of bottling than on using unripe fruit, as sparkling wine can be created from both ripe and unripe fruit. The fruit should be picked just before it shows any signs of ripening, ensuring it's nearly fully grown. Any bruised, decayed, or very small berries should be discarded. Remove the blossom and stalk ends, then bruise the fruit in a tub or pan, taking care to break each berry without crushing the seeds. Pour warm water over the fruit, then squeeze and mix it by hand until the pulp separates from the skin and seeds, covering it tightly for 24 hours. After that, strain it through a coarse bag, pressing it firmly to extract all the juice and liquid the fruit holds. For every 40 or 50 lbs. of fruit, you can run an additional gallon of hot water through the mash to collect any remaining soluble matter, then press it again. Transfer the juice into a large enough tub or pan, adding sugar to it. Stir well until the sugar dissolves, then place the pan in a warm spot, keeping it covered and letting it ferment for a day or two. Afterward, transfer it to clean casks, tilted slightly to allow any floating scum to be discarded, while keeping the casks filled with the leftover "must" for this purpose. Once active fermentation slows down, plug the casks upright and refill if needed, inserting the bungs loosely. After a few days, when fermentation slows further (indicated by a stop in hissing), tighten the bungs and make a spile-hole to relieve pressure if necessary. Around November or December, on a clear sunny day, rack the wine from its sediment into clean casks, which can be rinsed with brandy. After a month, check if it's clear enough for bottling; if not, clarify it with isinglass dissolved in some of the wine: 1 oz. is enough for 9 gallons. In March or April, or when the gooseberry bushes start to bloom, bottle the wine to ensure it remains sparkling.
Seasonable.—Make this the end of May or beginning of June, before the berries ripen.
Seasonable.—Make this the end of May or the start of June, before the berries are ripe.
LEMON SYRUP.
1822. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. of citric acid, 12 drachm of essence of lemon.
1822. INGREDIENTS.—2 lbs. of granulated sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. of citric acid, 12 drams of lemon extract.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 1/4 hour, and put it into a basin, where let it remain till cold. Beat the citric acid to a powder, mix the essence of lemon with it, then add these two ingredients to the syrup; mix well, and bottle for use. Two tablespoonfuls of the syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and will be found a very refreshing summer drink.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 15 minutes, then pour it into a bowl and let it cool. Grind the citric acid into a fine powder, mix it with the lemon essence, and then combine these two ingredients with the syrup; stir well and bottle it for later use. Two tablespoons of the syrup are enough for a glass of cold water and make for a very refreshing summer drink.
Sufficient—2 tablespoonfuls of syrup to a tumbler-ful of cold water.
Sufficient—2 tablespoons of syrup to one glass of cold water.
LEMON WINE.
1823. INGREDIENTS.—To 4-1/2 gallons of water allow the pulp of 50 lemons, the rind of 25, 16 lbs. of loaf sugar,—1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1 bottle of brandy.
1823. INGREDIENTS.—For 4.5 gallons of water, use the pulp of 50 lemons, the peel of 25, 16 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, and 1 bottle of brandy.
Mode.—Peel and slice the lemons, but use only the rind of 25 of them, and put them into the cold water. Let it stand 8 or 9 days, squeezing the lemons well every day; then strain the water off and put it into a cask with the sugar. Let it work some time, and when it has ceased working, put in the isinglass. Stop the cask down; in about six months put in the brandy and bottle the wine off.
Mode.—Peel and slice the lemons, using just the rind from 25 of them, and place them in cold water. Let it sit for 8 or 9 days, squeezing the lemons thoroughly each day; then strain the water and transfer it into a cask with the sugar. Allow it to ferment for a while, and once fermentation stops, add the isinglass. Seal the cask; in about six months, add the brandy and bottle the wine.
Seasonable.—The best time to make this is in January or February, when lemons are best and cheapest.
Seasonable.—The best time to make this is in January or February, when lemons are at their best and cheapest.
MALT WINE.
1824. INGREDIENTS.—5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts of sweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of candy, 1 pint of brandy.
1824. INGREDIENTS.—5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts of sweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins, 1/2 lb. of candy, 1 pint of brandy.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it well, and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub. Allow it to cool; then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let it stand for 3 days, then put it into a barrel; here it will work or ferment for another three days or more; then bung up the cask, and keep it undisturbed for 2 or 3 months. After this, add the raisins (whole), the candy, and brandy, and, in 6 months' time, bottle the wine off. Those who do not brew, may procure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquor that leaves the mash of malt before it is boiled with the hops; tun is the new beer after the whole of the brewing operation has been completed.
Mode.—Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it well, and pour the liquid into a suitably sized pan or tub. Allow it to cool; then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let it sit for 3 days, then transfer it into a barrel; here it will ferment for another three days or more; then seal the cask, and keep it undisturbed for 2 or 3 months. After this, add the whole raisins, the candy, and brandy, and, in 6 months' time, bottle the wine. Those who do not brew can get the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer. Sweet-wort is the liquid that comes from the malt mash before boiling it with hops; tun is the new beer after the entire brewing process is done.
Time.—To be boiled 10 minutes; to stand 3 days after mixing; to ferment 3 days; to remain in the cask 2 mouths before the raisins are added; bottle 6 months after.
Time.—Boil for 10 minutes; let it sit for 3 days after mixing; ferment for 3 days; leave in the cask for 2 months before adding the raisins; bottle after 6 months.
Seasonable.—Make this in March or October.
Seasonable.—Make this in March or October.
HOME-MADE NOYEAU.
1825. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of bitter almonds, 1 oz. of sweet ditto, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or gin, 1 tablespoonful of clarified honey, 4 pint of new milk.
1825. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of bitter almonds, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or gin, 1 tablespoon of clarified honey, 4 pints of fresh milk.
Mode.—Blanch and pound the almonds, and mix with them the sugar, which should also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it stand till quite cold; then mix all the ingredients together, and let them remain for 10 days, shaking them every day. Filter the mixture through blotting-paper, bottle off for use in small bottles, and seal the corks down. This will be found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes.
Mode.—Blanch and crush the almonds, then mix in the sugar, which should also be crushed. Boil the milk; let it cool completely; then combine all the ingredients and let them sit for 10 days, shaking them daily. Strain the mixture through blotting paper, bottle it in small containers, and seal the corks. This will be useful for adding flavor to many sweet dishes.
Average cost, 2s. 9d.
Average cost, £0.14.
Sufficient to make about 24 pints of Noyeau.
Sufficient to make about 24 pints of Noyeau.
Seasonable.—May be made at any time.
Seasonable.—Can be made at any time.
ORANGE BRANDY.
(Excellent.)
(Awesome.)
1826. INGREDIENTS.—To every 1 gallon of brandy allow 3/4 pint of Seville orange-juice, 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
1826. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1 gallon of brandy, use 3/4 pint of Seville orange juice and 1-1/4 lb. of loaf sugar.
Mode.—To bring out the full flavour of the orange-peel, rub a few lumps of the sugar on 2 or 3 unpared oranges, and put these lumps to the rest. Mix the brandy with the orange-juice, strained, the rinds of 6 of the oranges pared very thin, and the sugar. Let all stand in a closely-covered jar for about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day. When clear, it should be bottled and closely corked for a year; it will then be ready for use, but will keep any length of time. This is a most excellent stomachic when taken pure in small quantities; or, as the strength of the brandy is very little deteriorated by the other ingredients, it may be diluted with water.
Method.—To bring out the full flavor of the orange peel, rub a few lumps of sugar on 2 or 3 unpeeled oranges and add these lumps to the rest. Mix the brandy with the strained orange juice, the rinds of 6 of the oranges peeled very thin, and the sugar. Let everything sit in a tightly covered jar for about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day. When clear, it should be bottled and sealed with a cork for a year; it will then be ready to use but can be stored for an indefinite time. This is an excellent digestive when taken in small amounts straight; or, since the brandy's strength is hardly diminished by the other ingredients, it can be diluted with water.
Time.—To be stirred every day for 3 days.
Time.—To be mixed every day for 3 days.
Average cost, 7s.
Average cost, 7 shillings.
Sufficient to make 2 quarts. Seasonable.—Make this in March.
Sufficient to make 2 quarts. Seasonable.—Make this in March.
A VERY SIMPLE AND EASY METHOD OF MAKING A VERY SUPERIOR ORANGE WINE.
1827. INGREDIENTS.—90 Seville oranges, 32 lbs. of lump sugar, water.
1827. INGREDIENTS.—90 Seville oranges, 32 lbs. of lump sugar, water.
Mode.—Break up the sugar into small pieces, and put it into a dry, sweet 9-gallon cask, placed in a cellar or other storehouse, where it is intended to be kept. Have ready close to the cask two large pans or wooden keelers, into one of which put the peel of the oranges pared quite thin, and into the other the pulp after the juice has been squeezed from it. Strain the juice through a piece of double muslin, and put it into the cask with the sugar. Then pour about 1-1/2 gallon of cold spring water on both the peels and pulp; let it stand for 24 hours, and then strain it into the cask; add more water to the peels and pulp when this is done, and repeat the same process every day for a week: it should take about a week to fill up the cask. Be careful to apportion the quantity as nearly as possible to the seven days, and to stir the contents of the cask each day. On the ''third' day after the cask is full,—that is, the 'tenth' day after the commencement of making,—the cask may be securely bunged down. This is a very simple and easy method, and the wine made according to it will be pronounced to be most excellent. There is no troublesome boiling, and all fermentation takes place in the cask. When the above directions are attended to, the wine cannot fail to be good. It should be bottled in 8 or 9 months, and will be fit for use in a twelve month after the time of making. Ginger wine may be made in precisely the same manner, only, with the 9-gallon cask for ginger wine, 2 lbs. of the best whole ginger, 'bruised', must be put with the sugar. It will be found convenient to tie the ginger loosely in a muslin bag.
Mode.—Break the sugar into small pieces and place it in a dry, sweet 9-gallon cask located in a cellar or another storage area where it will be kept. Have two large pans or wooden containers nearby; in one, add the peel of the oranges, sliced very thin, and in the other, add the pulp after squeezing out the juice. Strain the juice through a double layer of muslin and pour it into the cask with the sugar. Next, pour about 1.5 gallons of cold spring water over both the peels and the pulp; let it sit for 24 hours, then strain it into the cask. After this, add more water to the peels and pulp and repeat the same process every day for a week; it should take about a week to fill the cask. Make sure to distribute the amounts evenly over the seven days and stir the contents of the cask each day. On the third day after the cask is full—that is, the tenth day after starting the process—you can securely seal the cask. This is a very simple and easy method, and the wine made this way will be considered excellent. There’s no complicated boiling involved, and all fermentation happens in the cask. If the above instructions are followed, the wine is guaranteed to be good. It should be bottled in 8 or 9 months and will be ready to use a year after it’s made. Ginger wine can be made in exactly the same way, but for the 9-gallon cask of ginger wine, add 2 pounds of the best whole ginger, bruised, along with the sugar. It’s helpful to loosely tie the ginger in a muslin bag.
Time.—Altogether, 10 days to make it.
Time.—In total, it takes 10 days to create it.
Average cost, 2s. 6d. per gallon. Sufficient for 9 gallons.
Average cost, £2.50 per gallon. Enough for 9 gallons.
Seasonable.—Make this in March, and bottle it the following January.
Seasonable.—Prepare this in March, and bottle it the next January.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
1828. INGREDIENTS.—To every 3 pints of the best vinegar allow 4-1/2 pints of freshly-gathered raspberries; to each pint of liquor allow 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
1828. INGREDIENTS.—For every 3 pints of the best vinegar, use 4-1/2 pints of freshly gathered raspberries; for each pint of liquid, add 1 lb. of powdered sugar and 1 wineglass of brandy.
Mode.—Let the raspberries be freshly gathered; pick them from the stalks, and put 1-1/2 pint of them into a stone jar; pour 3 pints of the best vinegar over them, and let them remain for 24 hours; then strain the liquor over another 1-1/2 pint of fresh raspberries. Let them remain another 24 hours, and the following day repeat the process for the third time; then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a jelly-bag (previously wetted with plain vinegar), into a stone jar. Add to every pint of the liquor 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar; stir them together, and, when the sugar is dissolved, cover the jar; set it upon the fire in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil for an hour, removing the scum as fast as it rises; add to each pint a glass of brandy, bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an excellent drink in cases of fevers and colds: it should be diluted with cold water, according to the taste or requirement of the patient.
Mode.—Gather the raspberries fresh; pick them from the stalks and place 1-1/2 pints into a stone jar. Pour 3 pints of the best vinegar over them and let them sit for 24 hours. Then strain the liquid over another 1-1/2 pints of fresh raspberries. Let them sit for another 24 hours, and the next day repeat the process for a third time. After that, drain off the liquid without pressing and strain it through a jelly bag (previously moistened with plain vinegar) into a stone jar. For each pint of liquid, add 1 lb. of powdered loaf sugar. Stir them together, and once the sugar is dissolved, cover the jar. Set it over boiling water in a saucepan and let it boil for an hour, skimming off any scum as it forms. Add a glass of brandy for each pint, bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an excellent drink for fevers and colds; it should be diluted with cold water based on the taste or needs of the patient.
Time.—To be boiled 1 hour. Average cost, 1s. per pint.
Time.—Cook for 1 hour. Average cost, £0.01 per pint.
Sufficient to make 2 quarts.
Makes 2 quarts.
Seasonable.—Make this in July or August, when raspberries are most plentiful.
In Season.—Prepare this in July or August, when raspberries are at their peak.
RHUBARB WINE.
1829. INGREDIENTS.—To every 5 lbs. of rhubarb pulp allow 1 gallon of cold spring water; to every gallon of liquor allow 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1 lemon.
1829. INGREDIENTS.—For every 5 lbs. of rhubarb pulp, use 1 gallon of cold spring water; for each gallon of liquid, add 3 lbs. of granulated sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, and the peel of 1 lemon.
Mode.—Gather the rhubarb about the middle of May; wipe it with a wet cloth, and, with a mallet, bruise it in a large wooden tub or other convenient means. When reduced to a pulp, weigh it, and to every 5 lbs. add 1 gallon of cold spring water; let these remain for 3 days, stirring 3 or 4 times a day; and, on the fourth day, press the pulp through a hair sieve; put the liquor into a tub, and to every gallon put 3 lbs. of loaf sugar; stir in the sugar until it is quite dissolved, and add the lemon-rind; let the liquor remain, and, in 4, 5, or 6 days, the fermentation will begin to subside, and a crust or head will be formed, which should be skimmed off, or the liquor drawn from it, when the crust begins to crack or separate. Put the wine into a cask, and if, after that, it ferments, rack it off into another cask, and in a fortnight stop it down. If the wine should have lost any of its original sweetness, add a little more loaf sugar, taking care that the cask is full. Bottle it off in February or March, and in the summer it should be fit to drink. It will improve greatly by keeping; and, should a very brilliant colour be desired, add a little currant-juice.
Mode.—Harvest the rhubarb around mid-May; clean it with a damp cloth, and then crush it using a mallet in a large wooden tub or another suitable container. Once it’s turned into a pulp, weigh it, and for every 5 lbs., add 1 gallon of cold spring water. Let this mixture sit for 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times daily. On the fourth day, strain the pulp through a fine sieve; transfer the liquid into a tub, and for every gallon, add 3 lbs. of loaf sugar. Stir the sugar in until it fully dissolves, and then add lemon peel. Let the liquid sit, and after 4, 5, or 6 days, the fermentation will start to settle down, forming a crust or scum that should be skimmed off, or you can carefully siphon the liquid away once the crust begins to crack or separate. Pour the wine into a cask, and if it ferments again afterward, transfer it into another cask, and seal it after about two weeks. If the wine loses some of its original sweetness, add a bit more loaf sugar, ensuring the cask is full. Bottle it in February or March, and it should be ready to drink by summer. It will improve significantly with age, and if a brighter color is desired, add a little currant juice.
Seasonable.—Make this about the middle of May.
Seasonable.—Do this in mid-May.
WELSH NECTAR.
1830. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 gallons of boiling water.
1830. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 gallons of boiling water.
Mode.—Cut the peel of the lemons very thin, pour upon it the boiling water, and, when cool, add the strained juice of the lemons, the sugar, and the raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand 4 or 5 days, stirring it every day; then strain it through a jelly-bag, and bottle it for present use.
Mode.—Thinly slice the lemon peels, pour boiling water over them, and once cool, mix in the strained lemon juice, sugar, and raisins, which should be pitted and finely chopped. Let it sit for 4 or 5 days, stirring daily; then strain it through a jelly bag and bottle it for immediate use.
Time.—4 or 5 days. Average cost, 1s. 9d.
Time.—4 or 5 days. Average cost, £0.09.
Sufficient to make 2 gallons.
Makes 2 gallons.
CLARET-CUP.
[Illustration: CLARET CUP.]
[Illustration: CLARET CUP.]
1831. INGREDIENTS.—1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda-water, about 1/2 lb. of pounded ice, 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 liqueur-glass of Maraschino, a sprig of green borage.
1831. INGREDIENTS.—1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda water, about 1/2 lb. of crushed ice, 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, 1 shot of Maraschino, a sprig of fresh borage.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a silver cup, regulating the proportion of ice by the state of the weather: if very warm, a larger quantity would be necessary. Hand the cup round with a clean napkin passed through one of the handles, that the edge of the cup may be wiped after each guest has partaken of the contents thereof.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a silver cup, adjusting the amount of ice based on the weather: if it's very warm, you'll need more ice. Pass the cup around with a clean napkin looped through one of the handles, so the edge of the cup can be wiped after each guest has taken a sip.
Seasonable in summer.
Seasonal in summer.
CLARETS.—All those wines called in England clarets are the produce of the country round Bordeaux, or the Bordelais; but it is remarkable that there is no pure wine in France known by the name of claret, which is a corruption of clairet, a term that is applied there to any red or rose-coloured wine. Round Bordeaux are produced a number of wines of the first quality, which pass under the name simply of vins de Bordeaux, or have the designation of the particular district where they are made; as Lafitte, Latour, &c. The clarets brought to the English market are frequently prepared for it by the wine-growers by mixing together several Bordeaux wines, or by adding to them a portion of some other wines; but in France the pure wines are carefully preserved distinct. The genuine wines of Bordeaux are of great variety, that part being one of the most distinguished in France; and the principal vineyards are those of Medoc, Palus, Graves, and Blanche, the product of each having characters considerably different.
CLARETS.—All the wines referred to as clarets in England come from the area around Bordeaux, or the Bordelais; however, it's interesting to note that there is no pure wine in France called claret, which is a variation of clairet, a term used there for any red or rosé wine. Around Bordeaux, there are many top-quality wines known simply as vins de Bordeaux, or they are identified by the specific district where they're produced, like Lafitte, Latour, etc. The clarets sold in the English market are often blended by the wine producers, mixing several Bordeaux wines or adding some other wines; but in France, the pure wines are kept separate. The authentic Bordeaux wines are very diverse, as that region is one of the most renowned in France; the main vineyards include those of Medoc, Palus, Graves, and Blanche, each producing wines with distinct characteristics.
CHAMPAGNE-CUP.
1832. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of soda-water, 1 liqueur-glass of brandy or Curaçoa, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 1 lb. of pounded ice, a sprig of green borage.
1832. INGREDIENTS.—1 quart bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of soda water, 1 shot glass of brandy or Curaçao, 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar, 1 lb. of crushed ice, a sprig of fresh borage.
Mode.—Put all the ingredients into a silver cup; stir them together, and serve the same as claret-cup No. 1831. Should the above proportion of sugar not be found sufficient to suit some tastes, increase the quantity. When borage is not easily obtainable, substitute for it a few slices of cucumber-rind.
Mode.—Combine all the ingredients in a silver cup; mix them together and serve like claret-cup No. 1831. If the amount of sugar isn't enough for some tastes, feel free to add more. If borage isn’t readily available, you can replace it with a few slices of cucumber peel.
Seasonable.—Suitable for pic-nics, balls, weddings, and other festive occasions.
Seasonable.—Great for picnics, parties, weddings, and other festive events.
CHAMPAGNE.—This, the most celebrated of French wines, is the produce chiefly of the province of that name, and is generally understood in England to be a brisk, effervescing, or sparkling white wine, of a very fine flavour; but this is only one of the varieties of this class. There is both red and white champagne, and each of these may be either still or brisk. There are the sparkling wines (mousseux), and the still wines (non-mousseux). The brisk are in general the most highly esteemed, or, at least, are the most popular in this country, on account of their delicate flavour and the agreeable pungency which they derive from the carbonic acid they contain, and to which they owe their briskness.
CHAMPAGNE.—This is the most famous of French wines, mainly produced in the region of the same name. In England, it is usually understood to be a lively, bubbly, or sparkling white wine with a very fine flavor; however, that’s just one type in this category. There is both red and white champagne, and each can be either still or sparkling. There are sparkling wines (mousseux) and still wines (non-mousseux). The sparkling ones are generally the most highly regarded, or at least the most popular in this country, due to their delicate flavor and the pleasant sharpness from the carbon dioxide they contain, which gives them their effervescence.
GINGER BEER.
1833. INGREDIENTS.—2-1/2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of bruised ginger, 1 oz. of cream of tartar, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 3 gallons of boiling water, 2 large tablespoonfuls of thick and fresh brewer's yeast.
1833. INGREDIENTS.—2.5 lbs. of granulated sugar, 1.5 oz. of crushed ginger, 1 oz. of cream of tartar, the zest and juice of 2 lemons, 3 gallons of boiling water, 2 large tablespoons of thick, fresh brewer's yeast.
Mode.—Peel the lemons, squeeze the juice, strain it, and put the peel and juice into a large earthen pan, with the bruised ginger, cream of tartar, and loaf sugar. Pour over these ingredients 3 gallons of boiling water; let it stand until just warm, when add the yeast, which should be thick and perfectly fresh. Stir the contents of the pan well, and let them remain near the fire all night, covering the pan over with a cloth. The next day skim off the yeast, and pour the liquor carefully into another vessel, leaving the sediment; then bottle immediately, and tie the corks down, and in 3 days the ginger beer will be fit for use. For some tastes, the above proportion of sugar may be found rather too large, when it may be diminished; but the beer will not keep so long good.
Mode.—Peel the lemons, squeeze out the juice, strain it, and put the peel and juice into a large ceramic pan, along with the crushed ginger, cream of tartar, and sugar. Pour 3 gallons of boiling water over these ingredients; let it sit until it's just warm. Then, add thick and really fresh yeast. Stir everything together well, and leave the pan near the fire overnight, covering it with a cloth. The next day, skim off the yeast and carefully pour the liquid into another container, leaving the sediment behind; then bottle it immediately, securing the corks. In 3 days, the ginger beer will be ready to drink. If you find the amount of sugar too much for your taste, you can reduce it, but the beer won't stay good for as long.
Average cost for this quantity, 2s.; or 1/2d. per bottle.
Average cost for this quantity, 2 shillings; or 1/2 penny per bottle.
Sufficient to fill 4 dozen ginger-beer bottles.
Enough to fill 48 ginger-beer bottles.
Seasonable.—This should be made during the summer months.
Seasonable.—This should be made in the summer months.
LEMONADE.
1834. INGREDIENTS—The rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 3 large or 4 small ones, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 quart of boiling water.
1834. INGREDIENTS—The peel of 2 lemons, the juice of 3 large or 4 small ones, 1 lb. of granulated sugar, 1 quart of boiling water.
Mode.—Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, on 2 of the lemons until they have imbibed all the oil from them, and put it with the remainder of the sugar into a jug; add the lemon-juice (but no pips), and pour over the whole a quart of boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved, strain the lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and, when cool, it will be ready for use. The lemonade will be much improved by having the white of an egg beaten up in it; a little sherry mixed with it, also, makes this beverage much nicer.
Mode.—Rub some sugar lumps on 2 lemons until they soak up all the oil from the lemons, then add it along with the remaining sugar into a jug; squeeze in the lemon juice (without the seeds), and pour in a quart of boiling water. Once the sugar is dissolved, strain the lemonade through a fine sieve or a piece of muslin, and when it cools down, it's ready to use. The lemonade tastes even better if you beat in an egg white; adding a little sherry also makes this drink much nicer.
Average cost, 6d. per quart.
Average cost, 6d. per quart.
LEMONADE—"There is a current opinion among women" says Brillat Savarin "which every year causes the death of many young women,—that acids, especially vinegar, are preventives of obesity. Beyond all doubt, acids have the effect of destroying obesity; but they also destroy health and freshness. Lemonade is, of all acids, the most harmless; but few stomachs can resist it long. I knew, in 1776, at Dijon, a young lady of great beauty, to whom I was attached by bonds of friendship, great, almost as those of love. One day, when she had for some time gradually grown pale and thin (previously she had a slight embonpoint), she told me in confidence, that as her young friends had ridiculed her for being fat, she had, to counteract the tendency, been in the habit every day of drinking a large glass of vinaigre. She died at eighteen years of age, from the effects of these potions."
LEMONADE—"There's a popular belief among women," says Brillat Savarin, "that every year leads to the deaths of many young women—namely, that acids, especially vinegar, can prevent obesity. While it's true that acids can help reduce obesity, they also harm health and vitality. Among all acids, lemonade is the least harmful; however, not many stomachs can tolerate it for long. Back in 1776, in Dijon, I knew a beautiful young lady, a close friend of mine, almost like a love. One day, after she had gradually become pale and thin (she had previously had a slight plumpness), she confided in me that her young friends had mocked her for being overweight, so to counteract this, she had taken to drinking a large glass of vinegar every day. She died at the age of eighteen due to the effects of these concoctions."
TO MAKE NEGUS.
1835. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of port wine allow 1 quart of boiling water, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to taste.
1835. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of port wine, use 1 quart of boiling water, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 lemon, and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—As this beverage is more usually drunk at children's parties than at any other, the wine need not be very old or expensive for the purpose, a new fruity wine answering very well for it. Put the wine into a jug, rub some lumps of sugar (equal to 1/4 lb.) on the lemon-rind until all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze the juice, and strain it. Add the sugar and lemon-juice to the port wine, with the grated nutmeg; pour over it the boiling water, cover the jug, and, when the beverage has cooled a little, it will be fit for use. Negus may also be made of sherry, or any other sweet white wine, but is more usually made of port than of any other beverage.
Mode.—Since this drink is more commonly served at children's parties than anywhere else, it doesn't need to be an old or pricey wine; a fresh, fruity wine works perfectly. Pour the wine into a jug, rub some sugar (about 1/4 lb.) on the lemon peel until all the yellow parts are soaked up, then squeeze the juice and strain it. Mix the sugar and lemon juice into the port wine, add grated nutmeg, pour in boiling water, cover the jug, and once the drink has cooled a bit, it's ready to serve. Negus can also be made with sherry or any other sweet white wine, but it's typically made with port more than any other drink.
Sufficient—Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients in proportion, for a party of 9 or 10 children.
Sufficient—Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients in proportion, for a party of 9 or 10 kids.
A PLEASANT DRINK FOR WARM WEATHER.
1836. INGREDIENTS.—To every 1-1/2 pint of good ale allow 1 bottle of ginger beer. Mode.—For this beverage the ginger beer must be in an effervescing state, and the beer not in the least turned or sour. Mix them together, and drink immediately. The draught is refreshing and wholesome, as the ginger corrects the action of the beer. It does not deteriorate by standing a little, but, of course, is better when taken fresh.
1836. INGREDIENTS.—For every 1-1/2 pint of good ale, use 1 bottle of ginger beer. Mode.—For this drink, the ginger beer must be fizzy, and the beer should not be sour or spoiled at all. Mix them together and drink right away. It's refreshing and healthy, since the ginger balances out the beer. It won't go bad if it sits for a bit, but it’s definitely better when it’s fresh.
FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT.
1837. INGREDIENTS.—The juice of 1 lemon, a tumbler-ful of cold water, pounded sugar to taste, 4 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
1837. INGREDIENTS.—The juice of 1 lemon, a glass of cold water, sugar to taste, 4 small teaspoons of baking soda.
Mode.—Squeeze the juice from the lemon; strain, and add it to the water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. When well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while the mixture is in an effervescing state.
Mode.—Squeeze the juice from the lemon; strain it, and mix it with the water, adding enough powdered sugar to sweeten it nicely. When it's well combined, add the soda, stir thoroughly, and drink while it's still fizzy.
TO MULL WINE.
1838. INGREDIENTS.—To every pint of wine allow 1 large cupful of water, sugar and spice to taste.
1838. INGREDIENTS.—For every pint of wine, add 1 large cup of water, along with sugar and spice to taste.
Mode.—In making preparations like the above, it is very difficult to give the exact proportions of ingredients like sugar and spice, as what quantity might suit one person would be to another quite distasteful. Boil the spice in the water until the flavour is extracted, then add the wine and sugar, and bring the whole to the boiling-point, when serve with strips of crisp dry toast, or with biscuits. The spices usually used for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon or mace. Any kind of wine may be mulled, but port and claret are those usually selected for the purpose; and the latter requires a very large proportion of sugar. The vessel that the wine is boiled in must be delicately clean, and should be kept exclusively for the purpose. Small tin warmers may be purchased for a trifle, which are more suitable than saucepans, as, if the latter are not scrupulously clean, they will spoil the wine, by imparting to it a very disagreeable flavour. These warmers should be used for no other purposes.
Mode.—When making preparations like this, it’s quite challenging to provide the exact amounts of ingredients like sugar and spice, since what works for one person might not be appealing to another. Boil the spice in the water until the flavor is extracted, then add the wine and sugar, and bring it all to a boil. Serve it with strips of crispy dry toast or biscuits. Common spices for mulled wine include cloves, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon or mace. You can use any kind of wine for mulling, but port and claret are the most common choices; the latter requires a much larger amount of sugar. The container used to heat the wine must be very clean and should be dedicated solely for this purpose. Small tin warmers are inexpensive and preferred over saucepans, as any leftover residue in saucepans can spoil the wine by giving it an unpleasant flavor. These warmers should only be used for this purpose.
TO MAKE HOT PUNCH.
1839. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of rum, 1/2 pint of brandy, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 large lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pint of boiling water.
1839. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of rum, 1/2 pint of brandy, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 large lemon, 1/2 teaspoon of nutmeg, 1 pint of boiling water.
[Illustration: PUNCH-BOWL AND LADLE.]
[Illustration: Punch bowl and ladle.]
Mode.—Rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the yellow part of the skin, then put the sugar into a punchbowl; add the lemon-juice (free from pips), and mix these two ingredients well together. Pour over them the boiling water, stir well together, add the rum, brandy, and nutmeg; mix thoroughly, and the punch will be ready to serve. It is very important in making good punch that all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated; and, to insure success, the processes of mixing must be diligently attended to.
Mode.—Rub the sugar onto the lemon until it soaks up all the yellow part of the skin, then put the sugar into a punch bowl; add the lemon juice (without seeds), and mix these two ingredients well together. Pour the boiling water over them, stir well, then add the rum, brandy, and nutmeg; mix thoroughly, and the punch will be ready to serve. It's crucial for making good punch that all the ingredients are fully combined; to ensure success, you must pay close attention to the mixing process.
Sufficient.—Allow a quart for 4 persons; but this information must be taken cum grano salis; for the capacities of persons for this kind of beverage are generally supposed to vary considerably.
Sufficient.—Allow a quart for 4 people; but this information should be taken cum grano salis; as people's capacity for this type of drink is usually believed to vary significantly.
PUNCH is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine, hot water, the acid juice of fruits, and sugar. It is considered to be very intoxicating; but this is probably because the spirit, being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous juice and the sugar, its strength does not appear to the taste so great as it really is. Punch, which was almost universally drunk among the middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago, has almost disappeared from our domestic tables, being superseded by wine. There are many different varieties of punch. It is sometimes kept cold in bottles, and makes a most agreeable summer drink. In Scotland, instead of the Madeira or sherry generally used in its manufacture, whiskey is substituted, and then its insidious properties are more than usually felt. Where fresh lemons cannot be had for punch or similar beverages, crystallized citric acid and a few drops of the essence of lemon will be very nearly the same thing. In the composition of "Regent's punch," champagne, brandy, and veritable Martinique are required; "Norfolk punch" requires Seville oranges; "Milk punch" may be extemporized by adding a little hot milk to lemonade, and then straining it through a jelly-bag. Then there are "Wine punch," "Tea punch," and "French punch," made with lemons, spirits, and wine, in fantastic proportions. But of all the compounds of these materials, perhaps, for a summer drink, the North-American "mint julep" is the most inviting. Captain Marryat gives the following recipe for its preparation:—"Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint; upon them put a spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and common brandy, so as to fill up one third, or, perhaps, a little less; then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pineapple; and the tumbler itself is very often encrusted outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink." The Virginians, say Captain Marryat, claim the merit of having invented this superb compound; but, from a passage in the "Comus" of Milton, he claims it for his own country.
PUNCH is a drink made from a mix of different spirits or wine, hot water, fruit juice, and sugar. It's considered to be quite intoxicating, probably because the alcohol, which is partly masked by the thick juice and sugar, doesn't taste as strong as it actually is. Punch, which was widely consumed among the middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago, has nearly vanished from our homes, replaced by wine. There are many different types of punch. Sometimes it’s served cold from bottles, making it a refreshing summer drink. In Scotland, whiskey is used instead of the usual Madeira or sherry, making its effects feel even stronger. If fresh lemons aren't available for punch or similar drinks, crystallized citric acid and a few drops of lemon essence will work almost the same way. To make "Regent's punch," you need champagne, brandy, and true Martinique rum; "Norfolk punch" requires Seville oranges; and "Milk punch" can be whipped up by adding a bit of hot milk to lemonade and straining it through a jelly bag. There are also "Wine punch," "Tea punch," and "French punch," all made with lemons, spirits, and wine in various combinations. However, for a summer drink, the North-American "mint julep" is probably the most appealing. Captain Marryat provides this recipe: “Put about a dozen sprigs of fresh mint into a glass; add a spoonful of white sugar, and equal parts of peach and regular brandy to fill one third, or maybe a little less; then fill the glass with crushed ice. Some enthusiasts rub the rim of the glass with a piece of fresh pineapple, and the outside of the glass is often covered with icicles. As the ice melts, you drink.” According to Captain Marryat, the Virginians take credit for inventing this amazing drink, but he argues for his own country's claim based on a line in Milton's "Comus."
WHISKEY CORDIAL.
1840. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of ripe white currants, the rind of 2 lemons, 1/4 oz. of grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. of lump sugar.
1840. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of ripe white currants, the peel of 2 lemons, 1/4 oz. of grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. of granulated sugar.
Mode.—Strip the currants from the stalks; put them into a large jug; add the lemon-rind, ginger, and whiskey; cover the jug closely, and let it remain covered for 24 hours. Strain through a hair sieve, add the lump sugar, and let it stand 12 hours longer; then bottle, and cork well.
Mode.—Remove the currants from the stems and place them into a large jug. Add the lemon peel, ginger, and whiskey. Cover the jug tightly and let it sit for 24 hours. Strain it through a fine sieve, add the sugar, and let it sit for another 12 hours. Finally, bottle it and seal it with a cork.
Time.—To stand 24 hours before being strained; 12 hours after the sugar is added.
Time.—To let it stand for 24 hours before being strained; 12 hours after the sugar is added.
Seasonable.—Make this in July.
In season.—Make this in July.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
INVALID COOKERY.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
A FEW RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN COOKING FOR INVALIDS.
1841. LET all the kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalids' cookery be delicately and 'scrupulously clean;' if this is not the case, a disagreeable flavour may be imparted to the preparation, which flavour may disgust, and prevent the patient from partaking of the refreshment when brought to him or her.
1841. LET all the kitchen utensils used in making food for patients be carefully and 'meticulously clean;' if they aren't, an unpleasant taste may be added to the meal, which could turn the patient off and stop them from wanting to eat when it's served to them.
1842. For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as they seldom require much at a time; and it is desirable that variety be provided for them.
1842. For people who are unwell, never prepare a large amount of one thing, as they rarely need much at a time; and it's important to offer them a variety.
1843. Always have something in readiness; a little beef tea, nicely made and nicely skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, &c. &c., that it may be administered as soon almost as the invalid wishes for it. If obliged to wait a long time, the patient loses the desire to eat, and often turns against the food when brought to him or her.
1843. Always have something ready; a little beef tea, well-prepared and skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, etc., so it can be given as soon as the patient asks for it. If they have to wait too long, the patient loses their appetite and often rejects the food when it’s finally offered.
1844. In sending dishes or preparations up to invalids, let everything look as tempting as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth laid smoothly over the tray; let the spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers, &c., be very clean and bright. Gruel served in a tumbler is more appetizing than when served in a basin or cup and saucer.
1844. When sending food or drinks to patients, make sure everything looks as appealing as possible. Have a clean cloth laid flat over the tray; ensure the spoons, glasses, cups, and saucers are sparkling clean. Gruel served in a glass is more enticing than when served in a bowl or cup and saucer.
1845. As milk is an important article of food for the sick, in warm weather let it be kept on ice, to prevent its turning sour. Many other delicacies may also be preserved good in the same manner for some little time.
1845. Since milk is a crucial food item for those who are ill, during warm weather, it should be kept on ice to avoid souring. Many other delicacies can also be preserved in the same way for a while.
1846. If the patient be allowed to eat vegetables, never send them up undercooked, or half raw; and let a small quantity only be temptingly arranged on a dish. This rule will apply to every preparation, as an invalid is much more likely to enjoy his food if small delicate pieces are served to him.
1846. If the patient is allowed to eat vegetables, never serve them undercooked or half raw; and only let a small amount be attractively arranged on a plate. This rule applies to all preparations, as a patient is much more likely to enjoy their food if small, delicate pieces are served.
1847. Never leave food about a sick room; if the patient cannot eat it when brought to him, take it away, and bring it to him in an hour or two's time. Miss Nightingale says, "To leave the patient's untasted food by his side, from meal to meal, in hopes that he will eat it in the interval, is simply to prevent him from taking any food at all." She says, "I have known patients literally incapacitated from taking one article of food after another by this piece of ignorance. Let the food come at the right time, and be taken away, eaten or uneaten, at the right time, but never let a patient have 'something always standing' by him, if you don't wish to disgust him of everything."
1847. Never leave food in a sick room; if the patient can’t eat it when it’s brought to them, take it away and bring it back in an hour or two. Miss Nightingale says, "Leaving the patient’s untouched food by their side from meal to meal, hoping they will eat it in between, just prevents them from eating anything at all." She adds, "I’ve seen patients literally unable to eat one thing after another because of this kind of ignorance. Let the food be served at the right time and taken away, whether eaten or not, at the right time, but never let a patient have ‘something always sitting’ beside them, if you don’t want to make them dislike everything."
1848. Never serve beef tea or broth with the smallest particle of fat or grease on the surface. It is better, after making either of these, to allow them to get perfectly cold, when all the fat may be easily removed; then warm up as much as may be required. Two or three pieces of clean whity-brown paper laid on the broth will absorb any greasy particles that may be floating at the top, as the grease will cling to the paper.
1848. Never serve beef tea or broth with the smallest bit of fat or grease on the surface. It’s better, after making either of these, to let them cool completely, so all the fat can be easily removed; then warm up as much as you need. Two or three pieces of clean, light brown paper placed on top of the broth will absorb any greasy particles that are floating, as the grease will stick to the paper.
1849. Roast mutton, chickens, rabbits, calves' feet or head, game, fish (simply dressed), and simple puddings, are all light food, and easily digested. Of course, these things are only partaken of, supposing the patient is recovering.
1849. Roast mutton, chicken, rabbit, calves' feet or head, game, fish (lightly prepared), and simple desserts are all light foods that are easy to digest. Naturally, these items are only eaten if the patient is on the mend.
1850. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed, and broiled to a turn, is a dish to be recommended for invalids; but it must not be served with all the fat at the end, nor must it be too thickly cut. Let it be cooked over a fire free from smoke, and sent up with the gravy in it, between two very hot plates. Nothing is more disagreeable to an invalid than smoked food.
1850. A nicely cut, trimmed, and perfectly broiled mutton chop is a dish that's great for those who are unwell; however, it shouldn't be served with all the fat at the end, nor should it be too thick. It should be cooked over a smoke-free fire and served with the gravy on it, between two very hot plates. Nothing is more unpleasant for someone who's not feeling well than smoked food.
1851. In making toast-and-water, never blacken the bread, but toast it only a nice brown. Never leave toast-and-water to make until the moment it is required, as it cannot then be properly prepared,—at least, the patient will be obliged to drink it warm, which is anything but agreeable.
1851. When making toast-and-water, don’t burn the bread; just toast it to a nice brown. Don’t leave the toast-and-water until the last minute to prepare it, as it won't turn out well—at least, the person will have to drink it warm, which isn’t pleasant at all.
1852. In boiling eggs for invalids, let the white be just set; if boiled hard, they will be likely to disagree with the patient.
1852. When boiling eggs for patients, make sure the white is just set; if boiled too hard, they may upset the patient's stomach.
1853. In Miss Nightingale's admirable "Notes on Nursing," a book that no mother or nurse should be without, she says,—"You cannot be too careful as to quality in sick diet. A nurse should never put before a patient milk that is sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg that is bad, or vegetables underdone." Yet often, she says, she has seen these things brought in to the sick, in a state perfectly perceptible to every nose or eye except the nurse's. It is here that the clever nurse appears,—she will not bring in the peccant article; but, not to disappoint the patient, she will whip up something else in a few minutes. Remember, that sick cookery should half do the work of your poor patient's weak digestion.
1853. In Miss Nightingale's excellent "Notes on Nursing," a book that no mother or nurse should be without, she says, “You can't be too careful about the quality of food for sick people. A nurse should never serve a patient sour milk, spoiled meat or soup, bad eggs, or undercooked vegetables.” Yet often, she notes, she has seen these items brought to the sick, in a condition obvious to everyone’s nose or eyes except the nurse’s. This is where the skilled nurse comes in—she won't serve the spoiled item; but, to avoid disappointing the patient, she will quickly prepare something else in just a few minutes. Remember, that cooking for the sick should do half the work for your patient’s weak digestion.
1854. She goes on to caution nurses, by saying,—"Take care not to spill into your patient's saucer; in other words, take care that the outside bottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, every time he lifts his cup to his lips, he has to carry the saucer with it, or else to drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, or bedgown, or pillow, or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you have no idea what a difference this minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort, and even to his willingness for food."
1854. She advises nurses, saying, "Be careful not to spill into your patient's saucer; in other words, make sure the outer bottom rim of their cup is completely dry and clean. If every time they lift their cup to their lips they also have to bring the saucer with it, or if they might spill liquid and mess up their sheet, bedgown, pillow, or if they’re sitting up, their clothes, you have no idea how much this small oversight on your part affects their comfort and even their willingness to eat."
RECIPES.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
TO MAKE ARROWROOT.
1855. INGREDIENTS.—Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1/2 pint of boiling water.
1855. INGREDIENTS.—Two teaspoons of arrowroot, 3 tablespoons of cold water, 1/2 pint of boiling water.
Mode.—Mix the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with the cold water, then pour on it the boiling water, stirring all the time. The water must be boiling at the time it is poured on the mixture, or it will not thicken; if mixed with hot water only, it must be put into a clean saucepan, and boiled until it thickens; but this is more trouble, and quite unnecessary if the water is boiling at first. Put the arrowroot into a tumbler, sweeten it with lump sugar, and flavour it with grated nutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece of lemon-peel, or, when allowed, 3 tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. As arrowroot is in itself flavourless and insipid, it is almost necessary to add the wine to make it palatable. Arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer, but is not so easily digested. It should be mixed in the same manner, with 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling milk then poured on it, and well stirred. When made in this manner, no wine should be added, but merely sugar, and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel.
Method.—Blend the arrowroot smoothly in a bowl with cold water, then pour boiling water over it, stirring constantly. The water needs to be boiling when added to the mixture; if it's only hot, you’ll need to transfer it to a clean saucepan and boil it until it thickens. However, this is more work and completely unnecessary if you start with boiling water. Place the arrowroot in a glass, sweeten it with sugar, and add some grated nutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece of lemon peel, or, when allowed, 3 tablespoons of port or sherry. Since arrowroot itself has no taste, adding the wine is almost essential to make it enjoyable. Arrowroot prepared with milk instead of water tastes much better, but it's not as easily digestible. It should be mixed the same way, with 3 tablespoons of cold water, then pour boiling milk over it, stirring well. When made this way, don’t add any wine, just sugar and a little grated nutmeg or lemon peel.
Time.—If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per pint.
Time.—If you have to boil it, 2 minutes. Average cost, 2p. per pint.
Sufficient to make 1/2 pint of arrowroot.
Sufficient to make 1/2 pint of arrowroot.
MISS NIGHTINGALE says, in her "Notes on Nursing," that arrowroot is a grand dependence of the nurse. As a vehicle for wine, and as a restorative quickly prepared, it is all very well, but it is nothing but starch and water; flour is both more nutritive and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be used.
MISS NIGHTINGALE says in her "Notes on Nursing" that arrowroot is a great resource for nurses. While it's useful as a base for wine and as a quick restorative, it's really just starch and water; flour is more nutritious and less likely to ferment, making it a better option whenever possible.
BARLEY GRUEL.
1856. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of Scotch or pearl barley, 1/2 pint of port wine, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart and 1/2 pint of water, sugar to taste.
1856. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of Scotch or pearl barley, 1/2 pint of port wine, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart and 1/2 pint of water, sugar to taste.
Mode.—After well washing the barley, boil it in 1/2 pint of water for 1/4 hour; then pour this water away; put to the barley the quart of fresh boiling water, and let it boil until the liquid is reduced to half; then strain it off. Add the wine, sugar, and lemon-peel; simmer for 5 minutes, and put it away in a clean jug. It can be warmed from time to time, as required.
Method.—After washing the barley thoroughly, boil it in 1/2 pint of water for 15 minutes; then drain the water. Add a quart of fresh boiling water to the barley and let it boil until the liquid is reduced by half; then strain it. Stir in the wine, sugar, and lemon peel; simmer for 5 minutes, then transfer it to a clean jug. It can be warmed up as needed.
Time.—To be boiled until reduced to half. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Time.—Boil until reduced by half. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient with the wine to make 1-1/2 pint of gruel.
Sufficient with the wine to make 1-1/2 pints of gruel.
TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER.
1857. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. of pearl barley, 2 quarts of boiling water, 1 pint of cold water.
1857. INGREDIENTS.—2 oz. pearl barley, 2 quarts boiling water, 1 pint cold water.
Mode.—Wash the barley in cold water; put it into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water, and when it has boiled for about 1/4 hour, strain off the water, and add the 2 quarts of fresh boiling water. Boil it until the liquid is reduced one half; strain it, and it will be ready for use. It may be flavoured with lemon-peel, after being sweetened, or a small piece may be simmered with the barley. When the invalid may take it, a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant drink in illness a very nice flavour.
Method.—Rinse the barley in cold water; place it in a saucepan with the specified amount of cold water, and once it has boiled for about 15 minutes, drain the water and add 2 quarts of fresh boiling water. Let it boil until the liquid is reduced by half; strain it, and it will be ready to use. You can add lemon peel for flavor after sweetening, or simmer a small piece with the barley. When the person is able to have it, a little lemon juice adds a nice flavor to this drink during illness.
Time.—To boil until the liquid is reduced one half.
Time.—Boil until the liquid is reduced by half.
Sufficient to make 1 quart of barley-water.
Sufficient to make 1 quart of barley water.
TO MAKE BEEF TEA.
1858. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, 1 quart of water, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
1858. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of lean gravy beef, 1 quart of water, 1 saltspoon of salt.
Mode.—Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nice fleshy piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice, and put it into a clean saucepan. Add the water cold to it; put it on the fire, and bring it to the boiling-point; then skim well. Put in the salt when the water boils, and simmer the beef tea gently from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, removing any more scum should it appear on the surface. Strain the tea through a hair sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When wanted for use, remove every particle of fat from the top; warm up as much as may be required, adding, if necessary, a little more salt. This preparation is simple beef tea, and is to be administered to those invalids to whom flavourings and seasonings are not allowed. When the patient is very low, use double the quantity of meat to the same proportion of water. Should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared in a more palatable manner, it is easy to make it so by following the directions in the next recipe, which is an admirable one for making savoury beef tea. Beef tea is always better when made the day before it is wanted, and then warmed up. It is a good plan to put the tea into a small cup or basin, and to place this basin in a saucepan of boiling water. When the tea is warm, it is ready to serve.
Mode.—Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nice fatty piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice and put it into a clean saucepan. Add cold water to it; set it on the stove and bring it to a boil; then skim well. Add the salt when the water boils and simmer the beef tea gently for 30 to 45 minutes, removing any more scum that appears on the surface. Strain the tea through a fine sieve and set it aside in a cool place. When you’re ready to use it, remove every bit of fat from the top; warm up however much you need, adding more salt if necessary. This is simple beef tea, meant for those patients who cannot have flavorings or seasonings. If the patient is very weak, use double the amount of meat with the same amount of water. If the patient can handle a more flavorful version, it can be made more palatable by following the next recipe, which is excellent for making savory beef tea. Beef tea is always better when made the day before it’s needed and then warmed up. A good method is to put the tea into a small cup or basin and place this in a saucepan of boiling water. When the tea is warm, it’s ready to serve.
Time.—1/4 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, 6d. per pint.
Time.—15 to 45 minutes. Average cost, 6p per pint.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 lb. of meat for a pint of good beef tea.
Sufficient.—Use 1 lb. of meat for a pint of quality beef tea.
MISS NIGHTINGALE says, one of the most common errors among nurses, with respect to sick diet, is the belief that beef tea is the most nutritive of all article. She says, "Just try and boil down a lb. of beef into beef tea; evaporate your beef tea, and see what is left of your beef: you will find that there is barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to 1/4 pint of water in beef tea. Nevertheless, there is a certain reparative quality in it,—we do not know what,—as there is in tea; but it maybe safely given in almost any inflammatory disease, and is as little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent, where much nourishment is required."
MISS NIGHTINGALE says that one of the most common mistakes among nurses regarding the diet for the sick is the belief that beef tea is the most nourishing option. She states, "Just try boiling down a pound of beef into beef tea; evaporate your beef tea and see what's left of your beef: you'll find there's barely a teaspoonful of solid nutrition in a quarter pint of water from beef tea. However, it does have some reparative quality—we don’t know what it is—similar to tea; but it can be safely given in almost any inflammatory disease and is not very reliable for the healthy or recovering, where a lot of nutrition is needed."
SAVOURY BEEF TEA.
(Soyer's Recipe.)
Soyer's Recipe.
1859. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 clove, 2 button onions or 1/2 a large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart of water.
1859. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 clove, 2 small onions or 1/2 a large one, 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 quart of water.
Mode.—Cut the beef into very small dice; put it into a stewpan with the butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy; then add the water, and let it simmer gently from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, skimming off every particle of fat. When done, strain it through a sieve, and put it by in a cool place until required. The same, if wanted quite plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming.
Method.—Chop the beef into very small cubes; place it in a saucepan with the butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir the meat over the heat for a few minutes until it creates a light gravy; then add the water and let it simmer gently for 30 to 45 minutes, skimming off any fat. Once it's done, strain it through a sieve and set it aside in a cool place until needed. If you prefer it completely plain, you can just skip the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter will not be an issue, as it’s removed while skimming.
Time.—1/2 to 3/4 hour. Average cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient.—Allow 1 lb. of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea.
Time.—30 to 45 minutes. Average cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient.—Use 1 lb. of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea.
Note.—The meat loft from beef tea may be boiled a little longer, and pounded, with spices, &c., for potting. It makes a very nice breakfast dish.
Note.—The meat leftover from beef tea can be boiled a bit longer and mashed up with spices, etc., for potting. It makes a delicious breakfast dish.
DR. CHRISTISON says that "every one will be struck with the readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take diluted meat juice, or beef tea repeatedly, when they refuse all other kinds of food." This is particularly remarkable in case of gastric fever, in which, he says, little or nothing else besides beef tea, or diluted meat juice, has been taken for weeks, or even months; and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely 1/4 oz. of anything but water. The result is so striking, that he asks, "What is its mode of action? Not simple nutriment; 1/4 oz. of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the daily wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances." Possibly, he says, it belongs to a new denomination of remedies.
DR. CHRISTISON says that "everyone will be amazed at how quickly certain types of patients will often accept diluted meat juice or beef tea repeatedly, while they refuse all other kinds of food." This is especially noteworthy in cases of gastric fever, where, he notes, little or nothing other than beef tea or diluted meat juice has been consumed for weeks, or even months; and yet a pint of beef tea has barely 1/4 oz. of anything besides water. The outcome is so striking that he questions, "What is its mode of action? Not just simple nutrition; 1/4 oz. of the most nutritious material cannot nearly replace the daily wear and tear of tissue under any circumstances." He suggests that it might belong to a new category of remedies.
BAKED BEEF TEA.
1860. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of fleshy beef, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt.
1860. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of lean beef, 1-1/2 pints of water, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt.
Mode.—Cut the beef into small square pieces, after trimming off all the fat, and put it into a baking-jar, with the above proportion of water and salt; cover the jar well, place it in a warm, but not hot oven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. When the oven is very fierce in the daytime, it is a good plan to put the jar in at night, and let it remain till the next morning, when the tea will be done. It should be strained, and put by in a cool place until wanted. It may also be flavoured with an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, &c., when the stomach is sufficiently strong to take those.
Mode.—Cut the beef into small square pieces after trimming off all the fat, and put it in a baking jar with the specified amount of water and salt. Cover the jar well, place it in a warm oven (not too hot), and bake for 3 or 4 hours. If the oven gets really hot during the day, it’s a good idea to put the jar in at night and let it stay until the next morning when the tea will be ready. It should be strained and stored in a cool place until needed. You can also add flavor with an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, etc., when your stomach is strong enough to handle those.
Time.—3 or 4 hours, or to be left in the oven all night.
Time.—3 to 4 hours, or can be left in the oven overnight.
Average cost, 6d. per pint.
Average cost, 6d. per pint.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 lb. of meat for 1 pint of good beef tea.
Sufficient.—Use 1 lb. of meat for every 1 pint of good beef tea.
BAKED OR STEWED CALF'S FOOT.
1861. INGREDIENTS.—1 calf's foot, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 blade of mace, the rind of 1/4 lemon, pepper and salt to taste.
1861. INGREDIENTS.—1 calf's foot, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 blade of mace, the peel of 1/4 lemon, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Well clean the foot, and either stew or bake it in the milk-and-water with the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. To enhance the flavour, an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added, if approved; 1/2 a teacupful of cream, stirred in just before serving, is also a great improvement to this dish.
Mode.—First, thoroughly clean the foot and then either stew or bake it in the milk and water with the other ingredients for 3 to 4 hours. To boost the flavor, you can add an onion and a small amount of celery, if desired; 1/2 a cup of cream, stirred in just before serving, also significantly enhances this dish.
Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average cost, in full season, 9d. each.
Time.—3 to 4 hours. Average cost, during peak season, 9d. each.
Sufficient for 1 person. Seasonable from March to October.
Enough for 1 person. Available from March to October.
CALF'S-FOOT BROTH.
1862. INGREDIENTS.—1 calf's foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump of sugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size of a nut.
1862. INGREDIENTS.—1 calf's foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump of sugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size of a nut.
Mode.—Stew the foot in the water, with the lemon-peel, very gently, until the liquid is half wasted, removing any scum, should it rise to the surface. Set it by in a basin until quite cold, then take off every particle of fat. Warm up about 1/2 pint of the broth, adding the butter, sugar, and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg; take it off the fire for a minute or two, then add the beaten yolk of the egg; keep stirring over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil again after the egg is added, or it will curdle, and the broth will be spoiled.
Method.—Simmer the foot in water with the lemon peel very gently until the liquid reduces by half, skimming off any foam that forms. Let it cool completely in a bowl, then remove all the fat. Heat about 1/2 pint of the broth, adding the butter, sugar, and a small amount of grated nutmeg; take it off the heat for a minute or two, then stir in the beaten egg yolk. Keep stirring over the heat until the mixture thickens, but don’t let it boil again after adding the egg, or it will curdle, ruining the broth.
Time.—To be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half.
Time.—Cook until the liquid is reduced by half.
Average cost, in full season, 9d. each.
Average cost, during the full season, 9d. each.
Sufficient to make 1-1/4 pint of broth.
Sufficient to make 1-1/4 pints of broth.
Seasonable from March to October.
Seasonal from March to October.
CHICKEN BROTH.
1863. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 fowl, or the inferior joints of a whole one; 1 quart of water, 1 blade of mace, 1/2 onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns.
1863. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 chicken, or the lower joints of a whole one; 1 quart of water, 1 blade of mace, 1/2 onion, a small bunch of fresh herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns.
Mode.—An old fowl not suitable for eating may be converted into very good broth, or, if a young one be used, the inferior joints may be put in the broth, and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some other manner. Put the fowl into a saucepan, with all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 1-1/2 hour, carefully skimming the broth well. When done, strain, and put by in a cool place until wanted; then take all the fat off the top, warm up as much as may be required, and serve. This broth is, of course, only for those invalids whose stomachs are strong enough to digest it, with a flavouring of herbs, &c. It may be made in the same manner as beef tea, with water and salt only; but the preparation will be but tasteless and insipid. When the invalid cannot digest this chicken broth with the flavouring, we would recommend plain beef tea in preference to plain chicken tea, which it would be without the addition of herbs, onions, &c.
Mode.—An old chicken that's not good for eating can be turned into a very good broth, or if you use a younger chicken, the less desirable parts can go into the broth while the best pieces are saved for another dish. Place the chicken in a saucepan with all the ingredients and simmer gently for 1.5 hours, skimming the broth carefully. When it's done, strain it and set it aside in a cool place until needed; then remove all the fat from the top, warm up as much as you need, and serve. This broth is only suitable for those whose stomachs can handle it, flavored with herbs, etc. It can also be made like beef tea, using just water and salt, but that version will be pretty bland and tasteless. If someone can't digest the chicken broth with the flavorings, we suggest plain beef tea instead of plain chicken tea, which is what it would be without the addition of herbs, onions, etc.
Time.—1-1/2 hour.
Time.—1.5 hours.
Sufficient to make rather more than 1 pint of broth.
Sufficient to make just over 1 pint of broth.
NUTRITIOUS COFFEE.
1864. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 oz. of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk.
1864. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 oz. of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk.
Mode.—Let the coffee be freshly ground; put it into a saucepan, with the milk, which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee is put in, and boil both together for 3 minutes; clear it by pouring some of it into a cup, and then back again, and leave it on the hob for a few minutes to settle thoroughly. This coffee may be made still more nutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten, and put into the coffee-cup.
Mode.—Use freshly ground coffee; put it in a saucepan with milk, which should be nearly boiling before you add the coffee. Boil both together for 3 minutes. To clear it, pour some into a cup and then back into the saucepan, and let it sit on the hob for a few minutes to settle completely. You can make this coffee even more nutritious by adding a well-beaten egg to the coffee cup.
Time.—5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to settle.
Time.—5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to let it settle.
Sufficient to make 1 large breakfast-cupful of coffee.
Enough to make 1 large breakfast cup of coffee.
Our great nurse Miss Nightingale remarks, that "a great deal too much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for their 'tea,' you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal; and a great deal of tea, and especially of coffee, impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore her patient, thinks that three or four cups will do twice as much. This is not the case at all; it is, however, certain that there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the English patient for his cup of tea; he can take it when he can take nothing else, and he often can't take anything else, if he has it not. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a greater impairer of the digestion. In making coffee, it is absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry, and grind it at home; otherwise, you may reckon upon its containing a certain amount of chicory, at least. This is not a question of the taste, or of the wholesomeness of chicory; it is, that chicory has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee, and, therefore, you may as well not give it."
Our amazing nurse Miss Nightingale says, "Smart people say way too much against tea, while foolish people give way too much tea to the sick. When you see how English people who are unwell naturally crave their 'tea,' you can't help but feel that Nature knows what she’s doing. But a little tea or coffee helps them just as much as a lot; in fact, too much tea, especially coffee, actually harms their already weak digestion. Yet a nurse, seeing how one or two cups of tea or coffee help her patient, believes that three or four cups will be even better. That’s not true; however, it’s clear that nothing has been found yet that can replace a cup of tea for an English patient. They can drink it when they can't take anything else, and often they can't take anything else without it. Coffee is a better pick-me-up than tea, but it also disrupts digestion more. When making coffee, it's essential to buy it as whole beans and grind it at home; otherwise, you can expect it to have some chicory mixed in. This isn’t just about taste or whether chicory is healthy; it's because chicory doesn’t have any of the benefits you're looking for in coffee, so you might as well not give it."
THE INVALID'S CUTLET.
1865. INGREDIENTS.—1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt to taste.
1865. INGREDIENTS.—1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton; take off all the fat; put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; stew very gently indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim off every particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time. The celery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to the meat, and care must be taken not to put in too much of this ingredient, or the dish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil fast, the cutlet will be hard.
Method.—Take a cutlet from a nice loin or neck of mutton; remove all the fat; place it in a stewpan with the other ingredients; simmer very gently for almost 2 hours, skimming off any fat that rises to the surface occasionally. The celery should be sliced thinly before being added to the meat, and be careful not to add too much of this ingredient, or the dish won't taste good. If the water is allowed to boil too quickly, the cutlet will become tough.
Time.—2 hours' very gentle stewing. Average cost, 6d.
Time.—2 hours of very gentle cooking. Average cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 1 person. Seasonable at any time.
Enough for 1 person. Appropriate at any time.
EEL BROTH.
1866. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. of eels, a small bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; 1/2 onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2 cloves, salt and pepper to taste.
1866. INGREDIENTS.—½ lb. of eels, a small bunch of fresh herbs, including parsley; ½ onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2 cloves, salt and pepper to taste.
Mode.—After having cleaned and skinned the eel, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; simmer gently until the liquid is reduced nearly half, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Strain it through a hair sieve; put it by in a cool place, and, when wanted, take off all the fat from the top, warm up as much as is required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. This is a very nutritious broth, and easy of digestion.
Method.—After cleaning and skinning the eel, cut it into small pieces and place it in a saucepan with the other ingredients. Simmer gently until the liquid is reduced by about half, carefully skimming off any foam that forms. Strain it through a fine sieve; set it aside in a cool place, and when needed, remove all the fat from the top, warm up the amount you need, and serve with toasted bread slices. This is a very nutritious broth that is easy to digest.
Time.—To be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half.
Time.—Cook until the liquid is reduced by half.
Average cost, 6d.
Average cost, 6p.
Sufficient to make 1-1/2 pint of broth.
Sufficient to make 1-1/2 pints of broth.
Seasonable from June to March.
In season from June to March.
EGG WINE.
1867. INGREDIENTS.—1 egg, 1 tablespoonful and 1/2 glass of cold water, 1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.
1867. INGREDIENTS.—1 egg, 1 tablespoon and 1/2 glass of cold water, 1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.
Mode.—Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water; make the wine-and-water hot, but not boiling; pour it on the egg, stirring all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture, and a little grated nutmeg; put all into a very clean saucepan, set it on a gentle fire, and stir the contents one way until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil. Serve in a glass with sippets of toasted bread or plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not warmed, the mixture will be found easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant a drink.
Mode.—Beat the egg and mix in a tablespoon of cold water; heat the wine and water until it's hot, but not boiling; pour it over the egg while stirring continuously. Add enough lump sugar to sweeten the mixture, along with a little grated nutmeg; place everything in a very clean saucepan, set it on low heat, and stir in one direction until it thickens, but do not let it boil. Serve in a glass with pieces of toasted bread or plain crisp crackers. When the egg isn't warmed, the mixture is easier to digest, but it's not as pleasant to drink.
Sufficient for 1 person.
Enough for 1 person.
TO MAKE GRUEL.
1868. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoonful of Robinson's patent groats, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water.
1868. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoon of Robinson's patent groats, 2 tablespoons of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water.
Mode.—Mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in a basin; pour over them the boiling water, stirring it all the time. Put it into a very clean saucepan; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, keeping it well stirred; sweeten to taste, and serve. It may be flavoured with a small piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it in the gruel, or a little grated nutmeg may be put in; but in these matters the taste of the patient should be consulted. Pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve. When wine is allowed to the invalid, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry or port make this preparation very nice. In cases of colds, the same quantity of spirits is sometimes added instead of wine.
Mode.—Blend the prepared groats smoothly with cold water in a bowl; then pour boiling water over them while stirring continuously. Transfer it to a very clean saucepan; boil the mixture for 10 minutes, stirring well throughout; sweeten to taste and serve. You can add flavor with a small piece of lemon peel by boiling it in the mixture, or grate in a little nutmeg; but it’s important to consider the patient's preference. Pour the mixture into a glass and serve. If wine is permitted for the patient, adding 2 tablespoons of sherry or port makes it very nice. In cases of colds, the same amount of spirits can sometimes be added instead of wine.
Time.—10 minutes.
Duration.—10 minutes.
Sufficient to make a pint of gruel.
Sufficient to make a pint of oatmeal.
INVALID'S JELLY.
1869. INGREDIENTS.—12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb. of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown.
1869. INGREDIENTS.—12 mutton shanks, 3 quarts of water, a bunch of fresh herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb. of lean beef, a slice of bread toasted brown.
Mode.—Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and scrub them well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into a saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It may be eaten either warmed up or cold as a jelly.
Method.—Soak the shanks in a lot of water for a few hours, and scrub them well; then, place them along with the beef and other ingredients into a saucepan with the water, and let everything simmer very gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, and when it's cold, remove all the fat. It can be enjoyed either warmed up or cold as a jelly.
Time.—5 hours. Average cost, 1s.
Duration.—5 hours. Average cost, $1.
Sufficient to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of jelly.
Enough to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of jelly.
Seasonable at any time.
Suitable at any time.
LEMONADE FOR INVALIDS.
1870. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling water.
1870. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lemon, sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling water.
Mode.—Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly; cut the lemon into 2 or 3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white outside pith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling water; cover it closely, and in 2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or poured off from the sediment.
Mode.—Thinly slice the rind off the lemon; cut the lemon into 2 or 3 thick slices, removing as much of the white pith and all the seeds as you can. Place the lemon slices, the peel, and lump sugar into a jug; pour boiling water over it; cover it tightly, and in 2 hours it will be ready to drink. It should be strained or poured off from the sediment.
Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 2d.
Duration: 2 hours. Average cost: 2d.
Sufficient to make 1 pint of lemonade. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient to make 1 pint of lemonade. Good at any time.
NOURISHING LEMONADE.
1871. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 pint of boiling water, the juice of 4 lemons, the rinds of 2, 1/2 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of loaf sugar.
1871. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 pints of boiling water, juice of 4 lemons, rinds of 2 lemons, 1/2 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of granulated sugar.
Mode.—Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into a jug with the sugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let it cool, then strain it; add the wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previously well beaten, and also strained, and the beverage will be ready for use. If thought desirable, the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened, and milk substituted for them. To obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly, a few lumps of the sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the yellow is absorbed.
Method.—Thinly peel the lemon, place it in a jug with the sugar, and pour boiling water over it. Allow it to cool, then strain it; add the wine, lemon juice, and eggs, which should be well beaten and also strained, and the drink will be ready to serve. If preferred, you can reduce the amounts of sherry and water, and replace them with milk. To capture the flavor of the lemon peel properly, rub some sugar over it until some of the yellow is absorbed.
Time.—Altogether 1 hour to make it. Average cost, 1s. 8d.
Time.—It takes about 1 hour to make it. Average cost, £0.08.
Sufficient to make 2-1/2 pints of lemonade. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to make 2-1/2 pints of lemonade. Good at any time.
TO MAKE MUTTON BROTH.
1872. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1 onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 4 turnip, 1/2 pints of water, pepper and salt to taste.
1872. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1 onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 4 turnips, 1/2 pints of water, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Put the mutton into a stewpan; pour over the water cold and add the other ingredients. When it boils, skim it very carefully, cover the pan closely, and let it simmer very gently for an hour; strain it, let it cool, take off all the fat from the surface, and warm up as much as may be required, adding, if the patient be allowed to take it, a teaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Pearl barley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth, and should be boiled as long as the other ingredients. When either of these is added, the broth must not be strained, but merely thoroughly skimmed. Plain mutton broth without seasoning is made by merely boiling the mutton, water, and salt together, straining it, letting the broth cool, skimming all the fat off, and warming up as much as is required. This preparation would be very tasteless and insipid, but likely to agree with very delicate stomachs, whereas the least addition of other ingredients would have the contrary effect.
Mode.—Place the mutton in a pot; pour in cold water and add the other ingredients. When it starts boiling, carefully skim off any foam, cover the pot tightly, and let it simmer gently for an hour; strain it, let it cool, remove all the fat from the top, and reheat as much as needed, adding a teaspoon of finely chopped parsley that has been scalded, if the patient is allowed to have it. Pearl barley or rice make great additions to mutton broth and should be cooked as long as the other ingredients. If you add either of these, don’t strain the broth, just skim it thoroughly. To make plain mutton broth without seasoning, simply boil the mutton with water and salt together, strain it, let the broth cool, skim off all the fat, and reheat as much as necessary. This preparation might taste bland and unappetizing, but it is likely to be gentle on very delicate stomachs, while even a small addition of other ingredients could upset them.
Time.—1 hour. Average cost, 7d.
Duration.—1 hour. Average cost, 7d.
Sufficient to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of broth.
Sufficient to make 1.5 to 2 pints of broth.
Seasonable at any time.
Available year-round.
Note.—Veal broth may be made in the same manner; the knuckle of a leg or shoulder is the part usually used for this purpose. It is very good with the addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, or a few shank-bones.
Note.—You can make veal broth in the same way; the knuckle of a leg or shoulder is usually the part used for this. It tastes great with the addition of the less desirable joints of a chicken or a few shank bones.
MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE.
1873. INGREDIENTS.—1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of water, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 of an onion, pepper and salt to taste.
1873. INGREDIENTS.—1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of water, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 of an onion, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with the bones, but no skin or fat; add the other ingredients; cover the saucepan, and bring the water quickly to boil. Take the lid off, and continue the rapid boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well during the process; strain the broth into a basin; if there should be any fat left on the surface, remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top: the greasy particles will adhere to the paper, and so free the preparation from them. To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable than broth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top; to avoid this, it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool, the fat can then be so easily removed.
Mode.—Cut the meat into small pieces, put it in a saucepan with the bones, but no skin or fat; add the other ingredients; cover the saucepan, and bring the water to a quick boil. Remove the lid and keep boiling rapidly for 20 minutes, skimming it well during this time; strain the broth into a bowl; if there's any fat left on the surface, remove it by placing a piece of thin paper on top: the greasy particles will stick to the paper, freeing the preparation from them. For someone who is unwell, nothing is more unpleasant than broth served with a layer of fat floating on top; to avoid this, it's always better to let it cool completely, as the fat can then be easily removed.
Time.—20 minutes after the water boils. Average cost, 5d.
Time.—20 minutes after the water starts boiling. Average cost, 5d.
Sufficient to make 1/2 pint of broth. Seasonable at any time.
Enough to make 1/2 pint of broth. Good at any time.
STEWED RABBITS IN MILK.
1874. INGREDIENTS.—2 very young rabbits, not nearly half grown; 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little salt and cayenne.
1874. INGREDIENTS.—2 very young rabbits, not quite half-grown; 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessert spoonful of flour, a bit of salt and cayenne.
Mode.—Mix the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls of the milk, and when this is well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up the rabbits into joints, put them into a stewpan, with the milk and other ingredients, and simmer them very gently until quite tender. Stir the contents from time to time, to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning. 1/2 hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish.
Method.—Mix the flour smoothly with 4 tablespoons of milk, and once that’s well combined, add the rest. Cut the rabbits into pieces, place them in a pot along with the milk and other ingredients, and simmer them very gently until they’re tender. Stir the mixture occasionally to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning. 1/2 hour will be enough to cook this dish.
Time.—1/2 hour. Average cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
Time.—30 minutes. Average cost, from 5p to 7.5p each.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 meals. Seasonable from September to February.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 meals. In season from September to February.
RICE-MILK.
1875. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 quart of milk, sugar to taste; when liked, a little grated nutmeg.
1875. INGREDIENTS.—3 tablespoons of rice, 1 quart of milk, sugar to taste; optional: a little grated nutmeg.
Mode.—Well wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the milk, and simmer gently until the rice is tender, stirring it from time to time to prevent the milk from burning; sweeten it, add a little grated nutmeg, and serve. This dish is also very suitable and wholesome for children; it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel, and a little finely-minced suet may be boiled with it, which renders it more strengthening and more wholesome. Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, and macaroni, may all be dressed in the same manner.
Mode.—Rinse the rice well, then place it in a saucepan with the milk, and let it simmer gently until the rice is soft, stirring occasionally to prevent the milk from burning; sweeten it, add a pinch of grated nutmeg, and serve. This dish is also very appropriate and nutritious for children; you can flavor it with a bit of lemon peel, and adding some finely minced suet while it cooks makes it more nourishing and wholesome. You can prepare tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, and macaroni in the same way.
Time.—From 3/4 to 1 hour. Seasonable at any time.
Time.—From 45 minutes to 1 hour. Appropriate at any time.
TO MAKE TOAST-AND-WATER.
1876. INGREDIENTS.—A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water.
1876. INGREDIENTS.—A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water.
Mode.—Cut a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is better than anything else for the purpose), toast it of a nice brown on every side, but do not allow it to burn or blacken. Put it into a jug, pour the boiling water over it, cover it closely, and let it remain until cold. When strained, it will be ready for use. Toast-and-water should always be made a short time before it is required, to enable it to get cold: if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is an exceedingly disagreeable beverage. If, as is sometimes the case, this drink is wanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread into a jug, and only just cover it with the boiling water; when this is cool, cold water may be added in the proportion required,—the toast-and-water strained; it will then be ready for use, and is more expeditiously prepared than by the above method.
Mode.—Cut a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust works best for this), toast it to a nice brown on all sides, but do not let it burn or blacken. Place it in a jug, pour boiling water over it, cover it tightly, and let it sit until it cools. Once strained, it will be ready to use. Toast-and-water should always be made shortly before you need it, to allow it to cool down; if consumed when it's tepid or lukewarm, it’s quite an unpleasant drink. If, as sometimes happens, you need this beverage quickly, put the toasted bread in a jug and just cover it with boiling water; when it's cool, you can add cold water in the necessary proportion,—strain the toast-and-water; it will then be ready to use and can be prepared more quickly than by the method above.
TOAST SANDWICHES.
1877. INGREDIENTS.—Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-butter, pepper and salt to taste.
1877. INGREDIENTS.—Thin cold toast, thin slices of buttered bread, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thin bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepper and salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat, or very fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any of these forms will be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid.
Mode.—Put a really thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thin buttered bread to make a sandwich, and season it with pepper and salt. You can also make this sandwich more interesting by adding some shredded meat or very thin slices of cold meat to the toast, and in any of these variations, it will be quite appealing to the appetite of someone who is unwell.
1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in the previous chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, which it would be useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed, light soups, plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simple puddings, jelly, stewed fruits, &c. &c., all of which dishes may be partaken of by invalids and convalescents, will be found in preceding chapters.
1878. Along with the recipes in this chapter, there are many others in the earlier chapters on cooking that are suitable for those who are unwell, which it wouldn't be helpful to repeat here. You'll find recipes for simply prepared fish, light soups, plain roasted meat, well-cooked vegetables, poultry, basic puddings, jelly, stewed fruits, etc., all of which can be enjoyed by those who are ill or recovering, in the previous chapters.
DINNERS AND DINING.
CHAPTER XL.
1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of the inferior races eat and drink; man only dines. It has also been said that he is a cooking animal; but some races eat food without cooking it. A Croat captain said to M. Brillat Savarin, "When, in campaign, we feel hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then eat it." Huntsmen in Dauphiny, when out shooting, have been known to kill a bird, pluck it, salt and pepper it, and cook it by carrying it some time in their caps. It is equally true that some races of men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture. It is not a dinner at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who gnaws his bone half bare and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the native of Terra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay. Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupy in the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals, as well as by their way of treating their women. The nation which knows how to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies both the will and the skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealisms and graces, the more material conditions of human existence; and wherever that will and that skill exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble.
1879. It has been said that humans are creatures who dine. Inferior species eat and drink; humans only dine. It has also been said that humans are cooking creatures; however, some groups consume food without cooking it. A Croat captain told M. Brillat Savarin, "When we get hungry during a campaign, we take down the first animal we find, cut off a piece of steak, sprinkle it with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop for half a mile, and then eat it." Hunters in Dauphiny have been known to shoot a bird, pluck it, season it with salt and pepper, and cook it by keeping it in their caps for a while. It's true that some groups of people do not dine any more than tigers or vultures do. The aboriginal Australian does not have a formal dinner as he gnaws a bone nearly bare before tossing it to his partner. Similarly, the native of Terra-del-Fuego isn’t dining when he eats his piece of red clay. Dining is a sign of civilization. The status of a people in the grand scheme can be measured by how they eat and how they treat their women. A nation that knows how to dine has learned a key lesson in progress. It shows both the desire and the ability to organize and infuse idealism and elegance into the basic aspects of human existence; and where that desire and ability are present, life cannot be entirely dishonorable.
1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter of considerable importance; and a well-served table is a striking index of human, ingenuity and resource. "Their table," says Lord Byron, in describing a dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at Norman Abbey,—
1880. Dinner, being the main meal of the day, is quite significant; and a well-set table is a clear sign of human creativity and skill. "Their table," says Lord Byron, while describing a dinner party hosted by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at Norman Abbey,—
"Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts
To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts.
I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts,
Albeit all human history attests
That happiness for man—the hungry sinner!—
Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner."
"Their table was inviting enough to tempt even ghosts
To cross the Styx for more satisfying meals.
I won’t go on about stews or roasts,
Even though all of human history shows
That happiness for man—the hungry sinner!—
Since Eve ate apples, a lot depends on dinner."
And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the results produced by human cleverness and application catering for the modifications which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of the primal instincts:—
And then he notes the interesting complexity of the results created by human ingenuity and effort that adapt to the changes happening in civilized life, one of the simplest of our basic instincts:—
"The mind is lost in mighty contemplation
Of intellect expended on two courses;
And indigestion's grand multiplication
Requires arithmetic beyond my forces.
Who would suppose, from Adam's simple ration,
That cookery could have call'd forth such resources,
As form a science and a nomenclature
From out the commonest demands of nature?"
"The mind is caught up in deep thought
About the intellect spent on two paths;
And the overwhelming effects of indigestion
Need math beyond my capabilities.
Who would think, from Adam's simple diet,
That cooking could generate such resources,
Creating a science and a vocabulary
From the most basic needs of nature?"
And we may well say, Who, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between the Croat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer getting up a great dinner at the Reform-Club, or even Thackeray's Mrs. Raymond Gray giving "a little dinner" to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous "roly-poly puddings" of hers),—what a gulf it is!
And we might as well ask, who would really believe it? The gap between the Croat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer preparing a grand dinner at the Reform Club, or even Thackeray's Mrs. Raymond Gray hosting "a little dinner" for Mr. Snob (with one of her famous "roly-poly puddings")—what a gap it is!
1881. That Adam's "ration," however, was "simple," is a matter on which we have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid that memorable visit to Paradise,—which we are expressly told by Milton he did exactly at dinner-time,—Eve seems to have prepared "a little dinner" not wholly destitute of complexity, and to have added ice-creams and perfumes. Nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet on these points:—
1881. However, the fact that Adam's "diet" was "basic" is one where we have differing opinions from the poets. When Raphael made that famous visit to Paradise,—which Milton specifically tells us happened right at dinner time,—Eve appears to have prepared "a small dinner" that wasn't entirely lacking in variety, even including ice creams and fragrances. The poet's evidence on these matters couldn't be clearer:—
"And Eve within, due at her home prepared
For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please
True appetite, and not disrelish thirst
Of nectarous draughts between….
…. With dispatchful looks in haste
She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent,
What choice to choose for delicacy best,
What order so contrived as not to mix
Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring
Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change—
* * * * *
"She tempers dulcet creams….
…. then strews the ground
With rose and odours."
"And Eve inside, preparing at home
For a dinner of tasty fruits that satisfy
True hunger, rather than a thirst
For sweet drinks in between….
…. With quick glances in a hurry
She turns, focused on welcoming thoughts,
Considering the best choices for delicacies,
How to arrange things so that flavors don’t clash,
In an unrefined way, but instead bring
One taste after another, with the kindest variety—
* * * * *
"She mixes creamy sweets….
…. then scatters on the ground
With roses and fragrances."
It may be observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more to say about wine than solid food, because the former more directly stimulates the intellect and the feelings, do not flinch from the subject of eating and drinking. There is infinite zest in the above passage from Milton, and even more in the famous description of a dainty supper, given by Keats in his "Eve of Saint Agnes." Could Queen Mab herself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both as to its appointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collation served by Porphyro in the lady's bedroom while she slept?—
It’s worth noting that poets tend to talk more about wine than solid food because wine more directly inspires the mind and emotions, but they don’t shy away from the topic of eating and drinking. There’s endless delight in the passage from Milton, and even more in Keats's famous description of a luxurious supper in "Eve of Saint Agnes." Could Queen Mab herself wish for anything better in terms of presentation, serving, and quality than the spread Porphyro brought to the lady’s bedroom while she slept?
"There by the bedside, where the faded moon
Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set
A table, and, half-anguish'd, threw thereor
A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet.
* * * * *
"While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap
Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd;
With jellies smoother than the creamy curd,
And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon;
Manna and dates, in argosy transferr'd
From Fez; and spiced dainties, every one,
From silken Samarcand to cedar'd Lebanon."
"There by the bedside, where the faded moon
Created a soft silver twilight, he gently set
A table, and, feeling half in anguish, threw there
A cloth of woven red, gold, and black.
* * * * *
"While he, from the closet, brought a pile
Of candied apples, quinces, plums, and gourds;
With jellies smoother than creamy curd,
And clear syrups flavored with cinnamon;
Manna and dates, brought over
From Fez; and spiced treats, every one,
From silken Samarkand to cedar-covered Lebanon."
But Tennyson has ventured beyond dates, and quinces, and syrups, which may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of "Audley Court" he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic:—
But Tennyson has gone beyond dates, quinces, and syrups, which might seem easy for a poet to include. In his idyl "Audley Court," he offers a really tempting description of a pasty at a picnic:—
"There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid
A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound;
Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home,
And, half cut down, a pasty costly made,
Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay
Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks
Imbedded and injellied."
"There, on a hillside orchard, Francis spread
A fancy napkin decorated with horses and hounds;
He pulled out a dark loaf that smelled like home,
And a partially sliced fancy pie he made,
Filled with quail and pigeon, lark and leveret,
Like fossils in the rock, with golden yolks
Embedded and jellied."
We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking may be surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using his privilege to turn any and every repast into a "feast of reason," with a warm and plentiful "flow of soul," may really count it as not the least of his legitimate prides, that he is "a dining animal."
We happily quote passages like these to illustrate how eating and drinking can be filled with poetic connections, and how people, embracing their ability to transform any meal into a "feast of reason," with a rich and abundant "flow of soul," can genuinely take pride in being "a dining animal."
1882. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are great diners. This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men of action; and, in that case, it would simply imply that persons of vigorous constitution, who work hard, eat heartily; for, of course, a life of action requires a vigorous constitution, even though there may be much illness, as in such cases as William III. and our brave General Napier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely be true that they eat so much, in a general way, though even they eat more than they are apt to suppose they do; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, "nerve-tissue is very expensive." Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get their own dinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must, and we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely.
1882. It's often said that great people tend to be great diners. However, this is probably only true for men of action; in that case, it just means that those with strong constitutions who work hard eat well. After all, a life of action requires a strong constitution, even if illness occurs, as seen with William III and our brave General Napier. For men of thought, it’s unlikely they eat that much in general, although they probably eat more than they think they do; as Mr. Lewes points out, "nerve-tissue is very expensive." But let's leave great men of all kinds to take care of their dinners and focus on our own. We need to eat, so we might as well dine elegantly as well as healthily.
1883. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they were not wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, or symposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in the life of the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas Jerrold said that such is the British humour for dining and giving of dinners, that if London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners would meet at a public dinner to consider the subject. The Greeks, too, were great diners: their social and religious polity gave them many chances of being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking. Any public or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods, was sure to be followed by a dinner-party, the remains of the slaughtered "offering" being served up on the occasion as a pious pièce de résistance; and as the different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped by the community in general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and some very religious people never let a day pass without offering up something or other, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excuse for a dinner; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried, as well as of a living person, being a member of the family, or otherwise esteemed. Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions of public rejoicing. Then, among the young people, subscription dinners, very much after the manner of modern times, were always being got up; only that they would be eaten not at an hotel, but probably at the house of one of the heterae. A Greek dinner-party was a handsome, well-regulated affair. The guests came in elegantly dressed and crowned with flowers. A slave, approaching each person as he entered, took off his sandals and washed his feet. During the repast, the guests reclined on couches with pillows, among and along which were set small tables. After the solid meal came the "symposium" proper, a scene of music, merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by young girls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the company to regulate the drinking; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the "mighty bowl." From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into goblets, and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, filling the cups of the guests.
1883. Nowadays, elegant dinners are common, just as they were in ancient times. It's well-known that dinner parties, or symposia, were significant and poetic aspects of the lives of sociable, talkative, and tasteful Greeks. Douglas Jerrold remarked that British humor is so focused on dining that if London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, Londoners would gather for a public dinner to discuss it. The Greeks loved to dine, too; their social and religious customs provided plenty of opportunities for enjoying good food and drink with others. Any public or even private sacrifice to a god was usually followed by a dinner party, where the remains of the "offering" would be served as a respectful centerpiece; with so many gods, goddesses, and demigods worshipped by the community and individuals, and some very religious people making offerings every day, dinner parties became countless. A birthday was also a reason to celebrate with a dinner—whether for someone dead and buried long ago or for a living family member or respected friend. Dinners were served during all public celebrations, too. Among young people, subscription dinners, much like those today, were frequently organized, though they were usually held at the home of one of the hetairai rather than at a hotel. A Greek dinner party was a grand, well-organized event. Guests arrived dressed elegantly and adorned with flowers. A slave would greet each guest upon entering, removing their sandals and washing their feet. During the meal, guests reclined on couches with pillows arranged around small tables. After the main meal, the actual symposium began, filled with music, laughter, and dancing, primarily provided by young girls. A chairman, or symposiarch, was chosen by the guests to oversee the drinking, and it was his job to mix the wine in a large bowl. From this bowl, attendants would ladle the drink into goblets, going around the tables to fill the guests' cups.
1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which depends, of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the taste of the master and mistress of the house. It may be observed, in general, that there should always be flowers on the table, and as they form no item of expense, there is no reason why they should not be employed every day.
1884. How elegantly dinner is served depends, of course, partly on the resources available, but even more on the taste of the hosts. Generally, there should always be flowers on the table, and since they don't really cost much, there's no reason not to use them every day.
1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern dinner-table, does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, or anything capricious. Food that is not well relished cannot be well digested; and the appetite of the over-worked man of business, or statesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose occupations are exciting and exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation. Men and women who are in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exercise, eat the simplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well; but those conditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their mode of dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. It is in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the skill of the modern housewife is severely tasked; and she has scarcely a more important duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her particular vocation, in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family, and of the friends of the family, in her hands from day to day. It has been said that "the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed;" and a great gastronomist exclaims, "Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are." The same writer has some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyperbolical, but worth quoting:—"The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to all conditions, to all countries, and to all eras; they mingle with all other pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure. The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than the discovery of a new star."
1885. The variety of dishes at a modern dinner table doesn't necessarily mean anything unhealthy or random. If food isn’t enjoyed, it can’t be digested well; and the appetite of a busy businessman, politician, or anyone living in a bustling city, whose work is both exciting and exhausting, can become worn out and needs a boost. Healthy men and women who get plenty of fresh air and exercise can enjoy simple foods and digest them well; however, that’s not possible for many people. They have to adapt their dining habits to fit their lifestyle if they can’t change that lifestyle itself. The challenge for today’s housewife lies in preparing food that is both appealing and healthy, and it is one of her most important responsibilities. In fact, it's her special role, as she holds the health of the family and their friends in her hands each day. It's been said that "the destiny of nations depends on the way they are fed;" and a famous food expert claims, "Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of person you are." The same writer has some phrases that may be exaggerated, but are worth mentioning: "The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, all conditions, all countries, and all times; they mix with all other joys and, in the end, provide comfort for their loss. Discovering a new dish brings more joy to humanity than discovering a new star."
1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has some aphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which are well deserving of notice:—"Let the number of your guests never exceed twelve, so that the conversation may be general. [Footnote: We have seen this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the Muses or fall below that of the Graces.] Let the temperature of the dining-room be about 68°. Let the dishes be few in number in the first course, but proportionally good. The order of food is from the most substantial to the lightest. The order of drinking wine is from the mildest to the most foamy and most perfumed. To invite a person to your house is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath your roof. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffee be excellent; whilst the master should be answerable for the quality of his wines and liqueurs."
1886. The food expert we’ve already mentioned has some important tips and advice for dinner parties: “Never invite more than twelve guests so that everyone can join in the conversation. [Footnote: Some suggest the number should never exceed that of the Muses or fall below that of the Graces.] Keep the dining room temperature around 68°F. Serve a few high-quality dishes for the first course. Start with the heartiest food and end with the lightest. When serving wine, begin with the mildest and work your way up to the most bubbly and fragrant. Inviting someone to your home means you're responsible for their enjoyment while they're there. The host should ensure the coffee is excellent, while the hostess should take charge of the quality of the wines and liqueurs.”
BILLS OF FARE.
JANUARY.
1887.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Mock Turtle Soup,
removed by
Cod's Head and Shoulders.
Mock Turtle Soup,
taken out by
Cod's Head and Shoulders.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet.
Flowers.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet.
Flowers.
Clear Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Fried Filleted Soles.
Clear Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Fried Filleted Soles.
Entrées.
Main courses.
Riz de Veau aux
Tomates.
Veal Rice with Tomatoes.
Ragoût of Vase of Cotelettes de Pore
Lobster. Flowers. à la Roberts.
Ragout of Vase of Pork Chops
Lobster. Flowers. à la Roberts.
Poulet à la Marengo.
Marengo Chicken.
Second Course.
Second Course.
Roast Turkey.
Roasted Turkey.
Pigeon Pie.
Pigeon pie.
Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham.
Celery Sauce. Flowers.
Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham.
Celery Sauce. Flowers.
Tongue, garnished.
Garnished tongue.
Saddle of Mutton.
Saddle of Lamb.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot Jam
à la Parisienne. removed by Tartlets.
Plum-pudding.
Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot Jam
in the Parisian style. served with Tartlets.
Plum pudding.
Jelly.
Jam.
Cream. Vase of Cream.
Flowers.
Cream. Vase of Cream.
Flowers.
Jelly.
Jell-O.
Snipes,
removed by
Pommes à la Condé.
Snipes,
removed by
Fries à la Condé.
We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1st Course, Entrées, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will be found bills of fare for smaller parties; and it will be readily seen, by studying the above arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number for the more limited company. Several menus for dinners à la Russe, are also included in the present chapter.
We’ve outlined the setup for the different dishes of the 1st Course, Entrées, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this, you’ll find menus for smaller gatherings; by looking at the arrangement of dishes above, it’s easy to see how to serve fewer options for a smaller group. Several menus for dinners à la Russe are also included in this chapter.
1888.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January).
1888.—Dinner for 12 (January).
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup à la Crécy.
Oxtail Soup.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup à la Crécy.
Oxtail Soup.
Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts with Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES.
Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties.
Fillets of Rabbits.
ENTREES.
Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties.
Rabbit Fillets.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey.
Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey.
Stewed Rump of Beef with Vegetables.
Boiled Ham, served with Brussels Sprouts.
Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare.
Teal.
Eggs à la Neige.
Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit.
1 Jelly. 1 Cream.
Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Grilled Mushrooms.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare.
Teal.
Eggs à la Neige.
Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit.
1 Jelly. 1 Cream.
Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Grilled Mushrooms.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1889.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January).
1889.—DINNER FOR 10 PEOPLE (January).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup à la Reine.
Whitings au Gratin.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Queen's Soup.
Baked Whitings.
Crimped Cod with Oyster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Tendrons de Veau.
Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice.
ENTREES.
Veal Shanks.
Curried Chicken and Boiled Rice.
SECOND COURSE.
Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion,
with Capers Sauce and Mashed Turnips.
SECOND COURSE.
Turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, and chestnut sauce.
Boiled leg of mutton, English style,
with caper sauce and mashed turnips.
THIRD COURSE.
Woodcocks or Partridges.
Widgeon.
Charlotte à la Vanille.
Cabinet Pudding.
Orange Jelly.
Blancmange.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese.
THIRD COURSE.
Woodcocks or Partridges.
Widgeon.
Vanilla Charlotte.
Cabinet Pudding.
Orange Jelly.
Blancmange.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1890.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January).
1890.—DINNER FOR 8 GUESTS (January).
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Fried Whitings.
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Brill with Shrimp Sauce.
Fried Whiting.
ENTREES.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce.
ENTRIES.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Pork Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
SECOND COURSE.
Mutton Leg.
Boiled Turkey with Celery Sauce.
Boiled Tongue, served with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pheasants.
Meringues à la Crême.
Compôte of Apples.
Orange Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Soufflé of Rice.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pheasants.
Meringues with Cream.
Apple Compote.
Orange Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Rice Soufflé.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1891.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—I.
1891.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (January).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Soles à la Normandie.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Soles à la Normandie.
ENTREES.
Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante.
Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes.
ENTREES.
Sweetbreads with Spicy Sauce.
Mutton Cutlets with Mashed Potatoes.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Venison.
Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
SECOND COURSE.
Venison Haunch.
Boiled Chicken and Bacon, served with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Plum-pudding.
Custards in Glasses.
Apple Tart.
Fondue à la Brillat Savarin.
THIRD COURSE.
Plum pudding.
Custards in glasses.
Apple tart.
Fondue à la Brillat Savarin.
DESSERT.
1892.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—II.
1892.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (January).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce.
John Dory.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Codfish Slices with Anchovy Sauce.
John Dory.
ENTREES.
Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière Rissoles.
Oyster Patties.
ENTREES.
Braised Rump Steak with Garden Vegetables Rissoles.
Oyster Pastries.
SECOND COURSE.
Leg of Mutton.
Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice.
SECOND COURSE.
Leg of Mutton.
Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Apple Fritters.
Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
Orange Jelly.
Plum-pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Apple Fritters.
Greengage Jam Tartlets.
Orange Jelly.
Plum Pudding.
DESSERT.
1893.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—III.
1893.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (January).—III.
FIRST COURSE.
Pea-soup.
Baked Haddock.
Soles à la Crême.
FIRST COURSE.
Pea soup.
Baked haddock.
Sole in cream.
ENTREES.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
Fricasseed Rabbit.
ENTREES.
Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
Fricasseed Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Pork and Apple Sauce.
Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Pork with Apple Sauce.
Stuffed and Rolled Veal Breast.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Jugged Hare.
Whipped Cream, Blancmange.
Mince Pies.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Stewed Hare.
Whipped Cream, Pudding.
Mince Pies.
Cabinet Pudding.
1894.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—IV.
1894.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (January).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Palestine Soup.
Fried Smelts.
Stewed Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Palestinian Soup.
Fried Smelts.
Stewed Eels.
ENTREES.
Ragoût of Lobster.
Broiled Mushrooms.
Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
ENTREES.
Lobster Stew.
Grilled Mushrooms.
Chicken Pot Pie.
SECOND COURSE.
Sirloin of Beef.
Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
SECOND COURSE.
Sirloin of Beef.
Boiled Chicken and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, served with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Cheesecakes.
Transparent Jelly, inlaid with Brandy Cherries.
Blancmange.
Nesselrode Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Apple Charlotte.
Cheesecakes.
Clear Jelly, filled with Brandy Cherries.
Blancmange.
Nesselrode Pudding.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY.
1895. Sunday.—1, Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet pudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons.
1895. Sunday.—1. Boiled turbot with oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg or piece of pork, apple sauce, broccoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet pudding and damson tart made with preserved damsons.
1896. Monday.—1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; baked arrowroot pudding.
1896. Monday.—1. Leftover turbot heated in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should have been made with the leftover pastry from the damson tart; baked arrowroot pudding.
1897. Tuesday.—1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and a little rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1897. Tuesday.—1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, and caper sauce: serve the broth first, and boil a little rice or pearl barley with it along with the meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1898. Wednesday.—1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.
1898. Wednesday.—1. Roast rolled beef ribs, greens, potatoes, and horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.
1899. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef should be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1899. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup (use the bones from beef ribs to enhance the flavor of the soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1900. Friday.—1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.
1900. Friday.—1. Fried fish or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit with onion sauce, ground beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.
1901. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.
1901. Saturday.—1. Rump steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.
* * * * *
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1902. Sunday.—1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes, red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese.
1902. Sunday.—1. Codfish with oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; broccoli and potatoes, red currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custard, cheese.
1903. Monday.—1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and warmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order a few oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or it will be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce.
1903. Monday.—1. Take the leftover codfish off the bone and warm it up in oyster sauce; if you don't have any sauce, get some oysters and prepare a little fresh sauce; just make sure not to let the fish boil, or it will turn watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served on the side, cold mutton, and mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce.
1904. Tuesday.—1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnished with Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding.
1904. Tuesday.—1. Boiled chickens, parsley and butter; bacon served with Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed lamb. 2. Baroness pudding.
1905. Wednesday.—1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and fricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.
1905. Wednesday.—1. The chicken cut into pieces and cooked as a fricassee; a roast pork joint with apple sauce, and, if preferred, sage-and-onion served on a separate dish; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.
1906. Thursday.—1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.
1906. Thursday.—1. Cold pork and hare stew, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.
1907. Friday.—1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there is a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice snowballs.
1907. Friday.—1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there is a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice snowballs.
1908. Saturday.—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding.
1908. Saturday.—1. Pea soup made from the broth used to boil beef; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked fruit pudding with batter.
FEBRUARY.
1909.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. First Course.
1909.—DINNER FOR 18 PEOPLE. First Course.
Hare Soup,
removed by
Turbot and Oyster Sauce.
Hare Soup,
taken out by
Turbot and Oyster Sauce.
Fried Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings.
Flowers.
Fried Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings.
Flowers.
Oyster Soup,
removed by
Crimped Cod à la Maître
d'Hôtel.
Oyster Soup,
removed by
Crimped Cod à la Maître
d'Hôtel.
Entrées.
Main Courses.
Lark Pudding.
Lark Pudding.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Filets de Perdrix.
Flowers.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Partridge Fillets.
Flowers.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Fried Chicken.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Braised Capon.
Boiled Ham, garnished.
Braised Capon.
Boiled Ham, garnished.
Roast Fowls, garnished Vase of Boiled Fowls and
with Water-cresses. Flowers. White Sauce.
Roasted Chickens, garnished Vase of Boiled Chickens and
with Watercress. Flowers. White Sauce.
Pâté Chaud.
Haunch of Mutton.
Pâté Chaud.
Haunch of Mutton.
Third Course
Main Course
Ducklings, removed by Ice Pudding.
Ducklings, removed by Ice Pudding.
Meringues. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes.
Meringues. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes.
Orange Jelly. Vase of Clear Jelly.
Flowers.
Orange Jelly. Vase of Clear Jelly.
Flowers.
Victoria Blancmange. Gâteau de
Sandwiches. Pommes.
Victoria Blancmange. Cake
Sandwiches. Apples.
Partridges,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Partridges,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1910.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February).
1910.—Dinner for 12 (February).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup a la Reine.
Clear Gravy Soup.
Brill and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
FIRST COURSE.
Queen's Soup.
Clear Gravy Soup.
Brill with Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
ENTREES.
Lobster Rissoles.
Beef Palates.
Pork Cutlets à la Soubise.
Grilled Mushrooms.
ENTREES.
Lobster Croquettes.
Beef Cheeks.
Pork Cutlets with Soubise Sauce.
Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Braised Turkey.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.
Vegetables and Salads.
SECOND COURSE.
Braised Turkey.
Leg of Mutton.
Boiled Chicken and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with bunches of Broccoli.
Vegetables and Salads.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Plovers.
Orange Jelly.
Clear Jelly.
Charlotte Russe.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Gâteau de Riz.
Sea-kale.
Maids of Honour.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Plovers.
Orange Jelly.
Clear Jelly.
Charlotte Russe.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Rice Cake.
Sea Kale.
Maids of Honour.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1911.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (February).
1911.—DINNER FOR 10 PEOPLE (February).
FIRST COURSE.
Palestine Soup.
John Dory, with Dutch Sauce.
Red Mullet, with Sauce Génoise.
FIRST COURSE.
Palestine Soup.
John Dory with Dutch Sauce.
Red Mullet with Sauce Génoise.
ENTREES.
Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce.
Fowl au Béchamel.
ENTREES.
Sweetbread Cutlets with Poivrade Sauce.
Chicken in Béchamel Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Boiled Tongue, served with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings.
Pain de Rhubarb.
Orange Jelly.
Strawberry Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Almond Pudding.
Fig Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Guinea Fowl. Ducklings.
Rhubarb Pie.
Orange Jell-O.
Strawberry Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Almond Pudding.
Fig Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1912.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February).
1912.—Dinner for 8 People (February).
FIRST COURSE.
Mock Turtle Soup.
Fillets of Turbot a la Crême.
Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Mock Turtle Soup.
Crème-Finished Turbot Fillets.
Fried Sole Fillets with Anchovy Sauce.
ENTREES.
Larded Fillets of Rabbits.
Tendrons de Veau with Purée of Tomatoes.
ENTREES.
Larded Rabbit Fillets.
Veal Tendrons with Tomato Purée.
SECOND COURSE.
Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
Roast Fowls.
Boiled Ham.
SECOND COURSE.
Stewed Beef Rump with Vegetables.
Roast Chicken.
Boiled Ham.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pigeons or Larks.
Rhubarb Tartlets.
Meringues.
Clear Jelly. Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Soufflé.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pigeons or Larks.
Rhubarb Tartlets.
Meringues.
Clear Jelly. Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Soufflé.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1913.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February)—I.
1913.—DINNER FOR 6 GUESTS (February)—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Rice Soup.
Red Mullet, with Génoise Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
FIRST COURSE.
Rice Soup.
Red Mullet with Genoise Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
ENTREES.
Fowl Pudding.
Sweetbreads.
ENTREES.
Chicken Pudding.
Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Leg of Pork.
Pease Pudding.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Leg of Pork.
Pease Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Lemon Jelly.
Charlotte à la Vanille.
Maids of Honour.
Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Lemon Jelly.
Vanilla Charlotte.
Maids of Honor.
Plum Pudding, replaced by Ice Cream Pudding.
DESSERT.
1914.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).—II.
1914. — Dinner for 6 (February). — II.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Boiled Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Fricasseed Rabbit.
Oyster Patties.
ENTREES.
Rabbit Fricassee.
Oyster Pastries.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones.
Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow Bones.
Roast Chickens, garnished with Watercress and rolled Bacon.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Marrow Pudding.
Cheesecakes.
Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
Lemon Cream.
Rhubarb Tart.
THIRD COURSE.
Marrow Pudding.
Cheesecakes.
Greengage Jam Tartlets.
Lemon Cream.
Rhubarb Tart.
DESSERT.
1915.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).—III.
1915.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (February).—III.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Whiting. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES.
Poulet à la Marengo.
Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled.
ENTREES.
Marengo Chicken.
Stuffed and rolled Veal Breast.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Pork and Apple Sauce.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Pork with Apple Sauce.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with clusters of Broccoli.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Lobster Salad.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Pain de Rhubarb.
Vanilla Cream.
Orange Jelly.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Lobster Salad.
Apple Charlotte.
Rhubarb Bread.
Vanilla Cream.
Orange Jelly.
DESSERT.
1916.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).—IV.
1916.—Dinner for 6 (February).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Cod à la Crême.
Fried Soles.
FIRST COURSE.
Oxtail Soup.
Creamy Cod.
Fried Sole.
ENTREES.
Lark Pudding.
Fowl Scollops.
MAIN DISHES.
Lark Pudding.
Chicken Scallops.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Mutton.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Pigeon Pie.
Small Ham, boiled and garnished.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Lamb.
Boiled Turkey with Celery Sauce.
Pigeon Pie.
Small Ham, boiled and garnished.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Game, when liked.
Tartlets of Raspberry Jam.
Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb.
Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding.
Brocoli and Sea-kale.
THIRD COURSE.
Game, if preferred.
Raspberry Jam Tartlets.
Rhubarb Vol-au-Vent.
Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding.
Broccoli and Sea Kale.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY.
1917. Sunday.—1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese.
1917. Sunday.—1. Oxtail soup. 2. Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, broccoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum pudding, apple pie. Cheese.
1918. Monday.—1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut in slices, warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese.
1918. Monday.—1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The leftover plum pudding sliced, warmed up, and served with powdered sugar on top. Cheese.
1919. Tuesday.—1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork cutlets with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese.
1919. Tuesday.—1. The leftover ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork cutlets with tomato sauce; minced beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese.
1920. Wednesday.—1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange, garnished with jam.
1920. Wednesday.—1. Boiled haddock with plain melted butter. 2. Rump steak pudding, potatoes, and greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange, topped with jam.
1921. Thursday.—1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, pease pudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.
1921. Thursday.—1. Boiled pork leg, greens, potatoes, pea pudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.
1922. Friday.—1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled in. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding.
1922. Friday.—1. Pea soup made with the liquid from boiling the pork. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding.
1923. Saturday.—1. Broiled herrings and mustard sauce. 2. Haricot mutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese.
1923. Saturday.—1. Grilled herrings with mustard sauce. 2. Mutton with haricot beans. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese.
* * * * *
Understood! Please provide the text you would like me to modernize.
1924. Sunday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and caper sauce, mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with bottled fruit, ratafia pudding.
1924. Sunday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton with caper sauce, mashed turnips, roasted chickens, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with bottled fruit, ratafia pudding.
1925. Monday.—1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice; rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1925. Monday.—1. The leftover curried chicken served with rice; rump steaks with oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1926. Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese.
1926. Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup made with the broth from boiling the mutton on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, broccoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese.
1927. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and mashed potatoes: if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it into neat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart.
1927. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles with melted butter. 2. Cold beef and mashed potatoes: if there's any leftover cold boiled mutton, slice it neatly and warm it up in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart.
1928. Thursday.—1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef and vegetables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni.
1928. Thursday.—1. Boiled rabbit with onion sauce, stewed beef with vegetables made from leftover cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni.
1929. Friday.—1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce; greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding. Cheese and water-cresses.
1929. Friday.—1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions, and apple sauce; greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of dessert. Cheese and watercress.
1930. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding.
1930. Saturday.—1. Rump steak and kidney pie, cold pork, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding.
MARCH.
1931.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup,
removed by
Salmon and dressed
Cucumber.
Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup,
taken out by
Salmon and arranged
Cucumber.
Red Mullet. Vase of Filets of Whitings.
Flowers.
Red Mullet. Vase of Filets of Whiting.
Flowers.
Spring Soup,
removed by
Boiled Turbot and Lobster
Sauce.
Spring Soup,
served with
Boiled Turbot and Lobster
Sauce.
Entrées
Main Dishes
Fricasseed Chicken.
Fried Chicken.
Vol-au-Vent. Vase of Compôte of Pigeons.
Flowers.
Vol-au-Vent. Bowl of Pigeon Compote.
Flowers.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Second Course.
Second Course.
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Lamb shoulder.
Braised Capon.
Braised Chicken.
Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. garnished. Flowers.
Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. garnished. Flowers.
Roast Fowls.
Roast Chickens.
Rump of Beef à la
Jardinière.
Beef Rump Jardinière.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Guinea-Fowls, larded,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Guinea fowls, larded,
removed by
cabinet pudding.
Apricot Wine Jelly. Rhubarb
Tartlets. Tart.
Apricot Wine Jelly. Rhubarb Tartlets. Tart.
Custards. Vase of Jelly in
Flowers. glasses.
Custards. Vase of Jelly in
Flowers. glasses.
Italian Cream.
Italian Cream Cake.
Damson Tart. Ducklings, Cheesecakes.
removed by
Nesselrode Pudding.
Damson Tart. Ducklings, Cheesecakes.
removed by
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1932.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March).
1932.—DINNER FOR 12 PEOPLE (March).
FIRST COURSE.
White Soup.
Clear Gravy Soup.
Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber.
Baked Mullets in paper cases.
FIRST COURSE.
White Soup.
Clear Gravy Soup.
Boiled Salmon with Shrimp Sauce and a side of Cucumber Salad.
Baked Mullets served in paper cases.
ENTREES.
Filet de Boeuf and Spanish Sauce.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Rissoles.
Chicken Patties.
ENTREES.
Beef Tenderloin with Spanish Sauce.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Savory Pies.
Chicken Pastries.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal and Béchamel Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses.
Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips.
Vegetables—Sea-kale, Spinach, or Brocoli.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal with Béchamel Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Roast Chickens, served with Watercress.
Boiled Ham, served with Carrots and mashed Turnips.
Vegetables—Sea Kale, Spinach, or Broccoli.
THIRD COURSE.
Two Ducklings.
Guinea-Fowl, larded.
Orange Jelly.
Charlotte Russe.
Coffee Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.
Spinach, garnished with Croutons.
THIRD COURSE.
Two Ducklings.
Guinea-Fowl, wrapped in fat.
Orange Jelly.
Charlotte Russe.
Coffee Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.
Spinach, topped with Croutons.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1933.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (March).
1933.—DINNER FOR 10 GUESTS (March).
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Salmon Cutlets.
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Boiled Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES.
Compôte of Pigeons.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
ENTREES.
Stewed Pigeons.
Lamb Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Boiled Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Boiled Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Boiled Bacon Cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Plum-pudding.
Ginger Cream.
Trifle.
Rhubarb Tart.
Cheesecakes.
Fondues, in cases.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Plum pudding.
Ginger cream.
Trifle.
Rhubarb tart.
Cheesecakes.
Fondue, served in dishes.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1934.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (March).
1934.—DINNER FOR 8 PEOPLE (March).
FIRST COURSE.
Calf's-Head Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Broiled Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
FIRST COURSE.
Calf's Head Soup.
Brill with Shrimp Sauce.
Broiled Mackerel with Herb Butter.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Calf's Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Calf's Liver and Bacon, with herbs.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Two Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel.
Boiled Knuckle of Ham.
Vegetables—Spinach or Brocoli.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Two Boiled Chickens in Béchamel Sauce.
Boiled Ham Knuckle.
Vegetables—Spinach or Broccoli.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Apple Custards.
Blancmange.
Lemon Jelly.
Jam Sandwiches.
Ice Pudding.
Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Apple Custards.
Blancmange.
Lemon Jelly.
Jam Sandwiches.
Ice Pudding.
Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1935.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—I.
1935.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (March).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Soles à la Crême.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Sole in Cream.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets.
Small Vols-au-Vent.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets.
Mini Vol-au-Vent.
SECOND COURSE.
Small Saddle of Mutton.
Half Calf's Head.
Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
SECOND COURSE.
Small Saddle of Mutton.
Half Calf's Head.
Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Cabinet Pudding.
Orange Jelly.
Custards, in glasses.
Rhubarb Tart.
Lobster Salad.
THIRD COURSE.
Cabinet Pudding.
Orange Jelly.
Custards, in glasses.
Rhubarb Tart.
Lobster Salad.
DESSERT.
1936.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—II.
1936.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (March).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Baked Mullets.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Baked Mullets.
ENTREES.
Chicken Cutlets.
Oyster Patties.
MAIN DISHES.
Chicken Cutlets.
Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Pork.
Pease Pudding.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce.
Boiled Pork Leg.
Pease Pudding.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Swiss Cream.
Lemon Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Rhubarb Tart.
Macaroni.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Swiss Cream.
Lemon Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Rhubarb Tart.
Mac and Cheese.
Dessert.
Dessert.
1937.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—III.
1937.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (March).—III.
FIRST COURSE.
Oyster Soup.
Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber.
FIRST COURSE.
Oyster Soup.
Boiled Salmon with dressed Cucumber.
ENTREES.
Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken.
MAIN DISHES.
Rissoles. Chicken Fricassée.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce.
Roast Fowls, garnished with
Water-cresses.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce.
Roast Chickens, garnished with
Watercress.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Orange Jelly.
Lemon Cream.
Soufflé of Arrowroot.
Sea-kale.
THIRD COURSE.
Apple Charlotte.
Orange Jell-O.
Lemon Cream.
Arrowroot Soufflé.
Sea Kale.
DESSERT.
1938.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—IV.
1938.—DINNER FOR 6 (March).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Boiled Mackerel.
FIRST COURSE.
Oxtail Soup.
Boiled Mackerel.
ENTREES.
Stewed Mutton Kidneys.
Minced Veal and Oysters.
ENTREES.
Braised Mutton Kidneys.
Chopped Veal and Oysters.
SECOND COURSE.
Stewed Shoulder of Veal.
Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Slow-Cooked Veal Shoulder.
Roasted Beef Ribs with Horseradish Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Tartlets of Strawberry Jam.
Cheesecakes.
Gateau de Riz.
Carrot Pudding.
Sea-kale.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Strawberry Jam Tartlets.
Cheesecakes.
Rice Cake.
Carrot Pudding.
Sea Kale.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MARCH.
1939. Sunday.—1. Boiled 1/2 calf's head, pickled pork, the tongue on a small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding, Baroness pudding.
1939. Sunday.—1. Boiled half a calf's head, pickled pork, the tongue on a small dish with the brains around it; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with canned fruit, baked custard pudding, Baroness pudding.
1940. Monday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli, baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over. Cheesecakes.
1940. Monday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton with onion sauce, broccoli, baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed and served with sugar on top. Cheesecakes.
1941. Tuesday.—1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf's head was boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding.
1941. Tuesday.—1. Mock turtle soup, made with the broth from boiling a calf's head, including pieces of the head. 2. Hash of mutton, rump steaks, and oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum pudding.
1942. Wednesday.—1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb.
1942. Wednesday.—1. Fried whiting, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow bones. 3. Arrowroot pudding and stewed rhubarb.
1943. Thursday.—1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
1943. Thursday.—1. Pea soup made from the broth that the beef was boiled in. 2. Stewed rump steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
1944. Friday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding.
1944. Friday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin of mutton, broccoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding.
1945. Saturday.—1.—Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains of cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.
1945. Saturday.—1.—Rump steak pie, mutton stew made with leftover loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.
* * * * *
Please provide the text for modernization.
1946. Sunday.—1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and potatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter pudding.
1946. Sunday.—1. Roast beef tenderloin, boiled ham, spinach, and potatoes. 2. Rhubarb pie, custards in cups, bread-and-butter pudding.
1947. Monday.—1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured round them; marmalade tartlets.
1947. Monday.—1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and steak pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with leftover custard poured around them; marmalade tartlets.
1948. Tuesday.—1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with remains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese.
1948. Tuesday.—1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, and veal rissoles made with leftover fillet of veal. 3. Cheese.
1949. Wednesday.—1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding.
1949. Wednesday.—1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast chicken, bacon, gravy, and bread sauce, mutton pudding made with a few slices of cold meat and two kidneys added. 3. Baked lemon pudding.
1950. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni.
1950. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup made with the broth from boiled mutton, mixed with leftover gravy. 2. Roast beef ribs, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, broccoli, and potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni.
1951. Friday.—1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit.
1951. Friday.—1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets, and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef with mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with canned fruit.
1952. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones, greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum tart, baked custard pudding.
1952. Saturday.—1. Rump steak and kidney pie, grilled beef bones, greens, and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with scraps of dough from a plum tart, baked custard pudding.
APRIL.
1953.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Spring Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Spring Soup,
taken out by
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Fillet of Mackerel. Vase of Fried Smelts.
Flowers.
Fillet of Mackerel. Vase of Fried Smelts.
Flowers.
Soles a la Crême.
Soles in cream.
Entrées.
Mains.
Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Peas.
Lamb Chops with Asparagus and Peas.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Oyster Patties.
Flowers.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Oyster Patties.
Flowers.
Grenadines de Veau.
Grenadines of Veau.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Roast Ribs of Lamb.
Roasted Lamb Ribs.
Larded Capon.
Stuffed Chicken.
Stewed Beef A la Vase of Boiled Ham.
Jardinière. Flowers.
Stewed Beef with Vegetables and Boiled Ham.
Vegetable Medley. Flowers.
Spring Chickens.
Spring Chickens.
Braised Turkey.
Braised Turkey.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Ducklings,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Ducklings,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Clear Jelly. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly.
Clear Jelly. Charlotte à la Parisienne. Orange Jelly.
Raspberry Jam Turtles. Vase of Cheese-Cakes.
Victoria Sandwiches. Flowers. Rhubarb Tart.
Raspberry Jam Turtles. Vase of Cheese-Cakes.
Victoria Sandwiches. Flowers. Rhubarb Tart.
Raspberry Cream.
Raspberry Cream.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1954.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April).
1954.—Dinner for 12 (April).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup à la Reine.
Julienne Soup.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Slices of Salmon a la Genévése.
FIRST COURSE.
Queen's Soup.
Julienne Soup.
Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
Slices of Salmon à la Genève.
ENTREES.
Croquettes of Leveret.
Fricandeau de Veau.
Vol-au-Vent.
Stewed Mushrooms.
ENTREES.
Rabbit Croquettes.
Veal Fricandeau.
Puff Pastry.
Stewed Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas.
Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas.
Boiled Tongue garnished with Broccoli Florets.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls.
Charlotte a la Parisienne.
Orange Jelly.
Meringues.
Ratafia Ice Pudding.
Lobster Salad.
Sea-kale.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls.
Charlotte à la Parisienne.
Orange Jelly.
Meringues.
Ratafia Ice Pudding.
Lobster Salad.
Sea Kale.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1955.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April).
1955.—DINNER FOR 10 PEOPLE (April).
FIRST COURSE
Gravy Soup.
Salmon and Dressed Cucumber.
Shrimp Sauce.
Fillets of Whitings.
FIRST COURSE
Gravy Soup.
Salmon with Dressed Cucumber.
Shrimp Sauce.
Fillets of Whiting.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Chicken Patties.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Chicken Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Ham, garnished with Brocoli.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roasted Veal Fillet.
Boiled Lamb Leg.
Ham, served with Broccoli.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Compôte of Rhubarb.
Custards.
Vanilla Cream.
Orange Jelly.
Cabinet Pudding.
Ice Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Rhubarb Compote.
Custards.
Vanilla Cream.
Orange Jelly.
Cabinet Pudding.
Ice Pudding.
DESSERT.
1956.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April).
1956.—DINNER FOR 8 (April).
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce.
Fried Filleted Soles.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Slices of Salmon with Caper Sauce.
Fried Filleted Soles.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Chickens in Béchamel Sauce.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Guinea-Fowl.
Sea-kale.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Cabinet Pudding.
Blancmange.
Apricot Tartlets.
Rice Fritters.
Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese.
THIRD COURSE.
Guinea-Fowl.
Sea-kale.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Cabinet Pudding.
Blancmange.
Apricot Tartlets.
Rice Fritters.
Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese.
DESSERT.
1957.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).
1957.—DINNER FOR 6 (April).
FIRST COURSE.
Tapioca Soup.
Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Tapioca Soup.
Boiled Salmon with Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties.
Mains.
Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and White Sauce.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Leg of Lamb.
Boiled Chicken with White Sauce.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Soufflé of Rice.
Lemon Cream.
Charlotte & la Parisienne.
Rhubarb Tart.
THIRD COURSE.
Rice Soufflé.
Lemon Cream.
Charlotte & the Parisian.
Rhubarb Tart.
DESSERT.
1958.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).—II.
1958.—DINNER FOR 6 (April).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Fried Whitings.
Red Mullet.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Fried Whiting.
Red Mullet.
ENTREES.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Rissoles.
ENTRÉES.
Lamb Chops and Cucumbers.
Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Ribs of Beef.
Neck of Veal à la Béchamel.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Beef Ribs.
Veal Neck in Béchamel Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Lemon Pudding.
Rhubarb Tart.
Custards.
Cheesecakes.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Lemon Pudding.
Rhubarb Tart.
Custards.
Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1959.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).—III.
1959.—Dinner for 6 (April).—III.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Brill with Shrimp Sauce.
ENTREES.
Fricandeau of Veal.
Lobster Cutlets.
ENTREES.
Veal Fricandeau.
Lobster Cutlets.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Boiled Chickens.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Boiled Chickens.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Goslings.
THIRD COURSE.
Baby Geese.
Sea-kale.
Plum-pudding.
Whipped Cream.
Compôte of Rhubarb.
Cheesecakes.
Sea kale.
Plum pudding.
Whipped cream.
Rhubarb compote.
Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1960.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).—IV.
1960.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (April).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Crimped Salmon.
FIRST COURSE.
Oxtail Soup.
Crimped Salmon.
ENTREES.
Croquettes of Chicken.
Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.
ENTREES.
Chicken Croquettes.
Mutton Cutlets with Soubise Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts.
Boiled Capon. Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Veal Fillet.
Boiled Bacon Cheek served with Sprouts.
Boiled Capon. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Sea-kale. Lobster Salad.
Cabinet Pudding.
Ginger Cream.
Raspberry Jam Tartlets.
Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.
THIRD COURSE.
Sea-kale. Lobster Salad.
Cabinet Pudding.
Ginger Cream.
Raspberry Jam Tartlets.
Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL.
1961. Sunday.—1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, sea-kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.
1961. Sunday.—1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast leg of mutton, sea kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb pie, custards in glasses.
1962. Monday.—1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding.
1962. Monday.—1. Crimped skate with caper sauce. 2. Boiled veal knuckle and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum pudding.
1963. Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding.
1963. Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from leftovers of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding.
1964. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.
1964. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.
1965. Thursday.—1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1965. Thursday.—1. Pea soup made with the broth from boiled beef. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets, and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1966. Friday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef. Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batter pudding and sweet sauce.
1966. Friday.—1. Bubble and squeak, made with leftovers from cold beef. Roast veal shoulder stuffed with spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled batter pudding with sweet sauce.
1967. Saturday.—1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remains of the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Yeast-dumplings.
1967. Saturday.—1. Braised veal with veggies, made from the leftover shoulder. Grilled rump steaks with oyster sauce. 2. Yeast dumplings.
* * * * *
* * * * *
1968. Sunday.—1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce 2. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarb tart, cheesecakes.
1968. Sunday.—1. Boiled salmon with dressed cucumber and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast lamb shoulder, spinach, potatoes, and mint sauce. 3. Rhubarb tart and cheesecakes.
1969. Monday.—1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish of boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes. 3. Spinach and poached eggs.
1969. Monday.—1. Curried salmon, made with leftover salmon, served with boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, rump steak and kidney pudding, potatoes. 3. Spinach and poached eggs.
1970. Tuesday.—1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked rice-pudding.
1970. Tuesday.—1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked rice pudding.
1971. Wednesday.—1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Fig pudding.
1971. Wednesday.—1. Boiled mackerel with melted butter or fennel sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast veal fillet with bacon and greens. 3. Fig pudding.
1972. Thursday.—1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb pudding.
1972. Thursday.—1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, broccoli, potatoes; veal rolls made from leftover cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb pudding.
1973. Friday.—1. Irish stew or haricot, made from cold mutton, minced veal. 2. Half-pay pudding.
1973. Friday.—1. Irish stew or beans, made from leftover mutton and ground veal. 2. Half-pay pudding.
1974. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Baked arrowroot pudding.
1974. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pie, grilled mutton chops. 2. Baked arrowroot pudding.
MAY.
1975.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster
Sauce.
Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster
Sauce.
Fried Filleted Vase of Fillets of Mackerel,
Soles Flowers. à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Fried Fillets Vase of Fillets of Mackerel,
Soles Flowers. à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Brill & Shrimp Sauce.
Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Brill & Shrimp Sauce.
Entrées.
Main dishes.
Lamb Cutlets and
Cucumbers.
Lamb Chops and
Cucumbers.
Lobster Pudding. Vase of Curried Fowl.
Flowers.
Lobster Pudding. Vase of Curried Chicken.
Flowers.
Veal Ragoût.
Veal Stew.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Saddle of Lamb.
Lamb Saddle.
Raised Pie.
Raised Pie.
Roast Fowls. Vase of Boiled Capon
Flowers. and White Sauce.
Roast Chickens. Vase of Boiled Capon
Flowers. and White Sauce.
Braised Ham.
Braised Ham.
Roast Veal.
Roasted Veal.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Almond Goslings, Lobster Salad.
Cheesecake removed by
College Puddings.
Almond Goslings, Lobster Salad.
Cheesecake taken out by
College Puddings.
Noyeau Jelly.
Noyeau Liqueur.
Italian Vase of Charlotte à la
Cream. Flowers. Parisienne.
Italian Vase of Charlotte à la
Cream. Flowers. Parisienne.
Inlaid Jelly.
Inlaid Gel.
Plovers' Ducklings,
Eggs. removed by Tartlets.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Plovers' Ducklings,
Eggs. taken away by Tartlets.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1976.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (May).
1976.—DINNER FOR 12 (May).
FIRST COURSE.
White Soup.
Asparagus Soup.
Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
White Soup.
Asparagus Soup.
Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Fricandeau of Veal.
Stewed Mushrooms.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Lamb Cutlets with Cucumbers.
Braised Veal.
Stewed Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb. Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled and Roast Fowls.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb. Leg of Mutton.
Boiled and Roast Chickens.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Goslings.
Charlotte Russe.
Vanilla Cream.
Gooseberry Tart. Custards.
Cheesecakes.
Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Goslings.
Charlotte Russe.
Vanilla Cream.
Gooseberry Tart. Custards.
Cheesecakes.
Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1977.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (May).
1977.—DINNER FOR 10 PEOPLE (May).
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Salmon à la Genévése.
Red Mullet.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Salmon à la Genévése.
Red Mullet.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Calf's Liver and Bacon aux Fines Herbes.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Calf's Liver and Bacon with Fine Herbs.
SECOND COURSE.
Saddle of Mutton.
Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Braised Ham.
Asparagus.
SECOND COURSE.
Saddle of Mutton.
Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Braised Ham.
Asparagus.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pigeons.
Ducklings.
Sponge-cake Pudding.
Charlotte à la Vanille.
Gooseberry Tart.
Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Apricot-jam Tart.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pigeons.
Ducklings.
Sponge Cake Pudding.
Vanilla Charlotte.
Gooseberry Tart.
Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Apricot Jam Tart.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1978.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (May).
1978.—DINNER FOR 8 PEOPLE (May).
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Brill and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Fillets of Mackerel.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Brill with Lobster Sauce.
Fried Mackerel Fillets.
ENTREES
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Lobster Patties.
ENTREES
Lamb Chops and Cucumbers.
Lobster Cakes.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Asparagus.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Veal Tenderloin.
Boiled Lamb Leg.
Asparagus.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Gooseberry Tart.
Custards.
Fancy Pastry.
Soufflé.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Gooseberry Tart.
Custards.
Gourmet Pastry.
Soufflé.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1979.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—I.
1979.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (May).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Boiled Salmon and Anchovy Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Boiled Salmon with Anchovy Sauce.
ENTREES.
Fillets of Beef and Tomato Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
MAIN DISHES.
Beef Fillets in Tomato Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Boiled Capon.
Asparagus.
SECOND COURSE.
Roasted Lamb.
Boiled Chicken.
Asparagus.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Cabinet Pudding.
Compôte of Gooseberries.
Custards in Glasses.
Blancmange.
Lemon Tartlets.
Fondue.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Cabinet Pudding.
Gooseberry Compote.
Custards in Glasses.
Blancmange.
Lemon Tartlets.
Fondue.
DESSERT.
1980.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—II.
1980.—DINNER FOR 6 (May).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Boiled Mackerel à la Maitre d'Hôtel.
Fried Smelts.
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Boiled Mackerel with Butter Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
ENTREES.
Scollops of Fowl.
Lobster Pudding.
ENTREES.
Fowl Scallops.
Lobster Pudding.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach.
Roast Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Lamb Leg and Spinach.
Roast Beef Sirloin with Horseradish Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Leveret.
Salad.
Soufflé of Rice.
Ramekins.
Strawberry-jam Tartlets.
Orange Jelly.
THIRD COURSE.
Roasted Rabbit.
Salad.
Rice Soufflé.
Ramekins.
Strawberry Jam Tartlets.
Orange Jelly.
DESSERT.
1981.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—III.
1981. — Dinner for 6 (May). — III.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Trout with Dutch Sauce.
Salmon Cutlets.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Trout with Dutch Sauce.
Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES.
Lamb Cutlets and Mushrooms.
Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
ENTRÉES.
Lamb Chops with Mushrooms.
Chicken Pot Pie.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Calf's Head à la Tortue.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Calf's Head à la Tortue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Spring Chickens.
Iced Pudding.
Vanilla Cream.
Clear Jelly.
Tartlets.
Cheesecakes.
THIRD COURSE.
Spring Chickens.
Iced Pudding.
Vanilla Cream.
Clear Jelly.
Tartlets.
Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1982.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—IV.
1982.—DINNER FOR 6 (May).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Soup à la Reine.
Crimped Trout and Lobster Sauce.
Baked Whitings aux Fines Herbes.
FIRST COURSE.
Queen's Soup.
Crimped Trout with Lobster Sauce.
Baked Whiting with Fine Herbs.
ENTREES.
Braised Mutton Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Stewed Pigeons.
ENTREES.
Braised Lamb Chops and Cucumbers.
Stewed Pigeons.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Bacon-cheek and Greens.
Fillet of Beef à la Jardinière.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Veal Fillet.
Bacon and Greens.
Beef Fillet with Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Soufflé à la Vanille.
Compôte of Oranges.
Meringues.
Gooseberry Tart.
Fondue.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Vanilla Soufflé.
Orange Compote.
Meringues.
Gooseberry Tart.
Fondue.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MAY.
1983. Sunday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.
1983. Sunday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Roast mutton, asparagus, and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart and custard.
1984. Monday.—1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton, mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding.
1984. Monday.—1. Fried fish filets, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton, mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding.
1985. Tuesday.—1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton, rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni.
1985. Tuesday.—1. Haricot mutton, made from leftover cold mutton, rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni.
1986. Wednesday.—1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream.
1986. Wednesday.—1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon, mutton cutlets with tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding with cream.
1987. Thursday.—1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce, spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.
1987. Thursday.—1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce, spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.
1988. Friday.—1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.
1988. Friday.—1. Boiled mackerel with parsley and butter. 2. Stewed rump steak, cold lamb, and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.
1989. Saturday.—1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb cutlets, and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni.
1989. Saturday.—1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump steak pie, lamb chops, and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni.
* * * * *
Please provide the text you would like me to modernize.
1990. Sunday.—1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roast lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart.
1990. Sunday.—1. Boiled salmon and lobster with caper sauce. 2. Roast lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum pudding, gooseberry tart.
1991. Monday.—1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and garnished with croûtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamb and dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over. Baked rice pudding.
1991. Monday.—1. Salmon heated in leftover lobster sauce and topped with croutons. 2. Braised veal knuckle with rice, cold lamb, and seasoned cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed and served with sugar on top. Baked rice pudding.
1992. Tuesday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire pudding, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.
1992. Tuesday.—1. Roast beef ribs, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire pudding, spinach, and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.
1993. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked plum-pudding.
1993. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked plum pudding.
1994. Thursday.—1. Spring soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, broiled beef-bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart.
1994. Thursday.—1. Spring soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, grilled beef bones, spinach, and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart.
1995. Friday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onion sauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings.
1995. Friday.—1. Roast shoulder of lamb, baked potatoes, onion sauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings.
1996. Saturday.—1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowroot pudding.
1996. Saturday.—1. Grilled mackerel, fennel sauce or just melted butter. 2. Rump steak pie, minced mutton, veggies. 3. Baked arrowroot pudding.
JUNE.
1997.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Crimped Salmon.
Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Crimped Salmon.
Fillets of Garnets. Vase of Soles aux fines herbes.
Flowers.
Fillets of Garnets. Vase of Sole with fine herbs.
Flowers.
Vermicelli Soup,
removed by Whitebait.
Vermicelli Soup,
removed by Whitebait.
Entrées.
Main Courses.
Lamb Cutlets and Peas.
Lamb Chops and Peas.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Tendrons de Veau
Flowers. à la Jardinière.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Veal Cutlets
Flowers. Garden Style.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Saddle of Lamb.
Lamb Saddle.
Tongue.
Tongue.
Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Capon.
Chickens. Flowers.
Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Chicken.
Chickens. Flowers.
Ham.
Ham.
Boiled Calf's Head.
Boiled Calf Head.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Prawns. Leveret, Tartlets. removed by Ice Pudding.
Prawns. Young hare, Tartlets. taken away by Ice Pudding.
Wine Jelly.
Wine Jelly.
Vol-au-Vent of Straw- Vase of Custards in berries and Cream. Flowers. glasses.
Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream. Vase of Flowers. Custards in glasses.
Blancmange.
Blancmange.
Goslings,
removed by
Cheesecake Fondues, in cases. Plover's Eggs.
Goslings,
taken away by
Cheesecake Fondues, in containers. Plover's Eggs.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1998.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (June).
1998.—DINNER FOR 12 (June).
FIRST COURSE.
Green-Pea Soup.
Rice Soup.
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Trout à la Genévése.
Whitebait.
FIRST COURSE.
Green Pea Soup.
Rice Soup.
Salmon with Lobster Sauce.
Trout Genéve Style.
Whitebait.
ENTREES.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Lobster Rissoles.
Stewed Veal and Peas.
ENTREES.
Lamb Chops and Cucumbers.
Chicken Fricassée.
Lobster Patties.
Braised Veal and Peas.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach.
Filet de Boeuf à la Jardinière.
Boiled Fowls.
Braised Shoulder of Lamb.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach.
Filet of Beef with Garden Vegetables.
Boiled Chickens.
Braised Lamb Shoulder.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Goslings.
Ducklings.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Charlotte à la Parisienne.
Gooseberry Tartlets.
Strawberry Cream.
Raspberry-and-Currant Tart.
Custards.
THIRD COURSE.
Goslings.
Ducklings.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Charlotte à la Parisienne.
Gooseberry Tartlets.
Strawberry Cream.
Raspberry and Currant Tart.
Custards.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1999.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (June).
1999.—DINNER FOR 10 (June).
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter.
Red Mullet.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Salmon Trout with Parsley and Butter.
Red Mullet.
ENTREES.
Stewed Breast of Veal and Peas.
Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon.
ENTREES.
Braised Veal Breast with Peas.
Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Boiled Leg of Lamb, garnished with young Carrots.
Boiled Bacon-cheek.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Veal Fillet.
Boiled Lamb Leg, served with young Carrots.
Boiled Bacon Cheek.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Leveret.
Gooseberry Tart.
Strawberry Cream.
Strawberry Tartlets,
Meringues.
Cabinet Pudding.
Iced Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Young Rabbit.
Gooseberry Tart.
Strawberry Cream.
Strawberry Tartlets,
Meringues.
Cabinet Pudding.
Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2000.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (June).
2000.—DINNER FOR 8 PEOPLE (June).
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Trout à la Genévése
Salmon Cutlets.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Trout à la Genève
Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES.
Lamb Cutlets and Peas.
Fricasseed Chicken.
MAIN DISHES.
Lamb Chops and Peas.
Fricassee Chicken.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Ribs of Beef.
Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Boiled Ham.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Beef Ribs.
Half a Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Boiled Ham.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Compôte of Gooseberries.
Strawberry Jelly.
Pastry.
Iced Pudding.
Cauliflower with Cream Sauce.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Gooseberry Compote.
Strawberry Jelly.
Pastry.
Iced Pudding.
Cauliflower with Cream Sauce.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2001.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (June).—I.
2001.—DINNER FOR 6 (June).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Boiled Salmon with Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES. Veal Cutlets and Endive.
Ragoût of Duck and Green Peas.
ENTRÉES. Veal Cutlets and Endive.
Duck Stew with Green Peas.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Leg of Lamb and White Sauce.
Tongue, garnished.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Leg of Lamb with White Sauce.
Garnished Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Strawberry Cream.
Gooseberry Tartlets.
Almond Pudding.
Lobster Salad.
THIRD COURSE.
Strawberry Cream.
Gooseberry Tartlets.
Almond Pudding.
Lobster Salad.
DESSERT.
2002.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Calf's-Head Soup.
Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Whitebait.
FIRST COURSE.
Calf's-Head Soup.
Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Whitebait.
ENTREES.
Chicken Cutlets.
Curried Lobster.
Mains.
Chicken Cutlets.
Curried Lobster.
SECOND COURSE.
Fore-quarter of Lamb and Salad.
Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Fore-quarter of Lamb and Salad.
Stewed Beef with Garden Vegetables.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Goslings.
Green-Currant Tart.
Custards, in glasses.
Strawberry Blancmange.
Soufflé of Rice.
THIRD COURSE.
Young Ducks.
Green Currant Pie.
Custards in glasses.
Strawberry Mousse.
Rice Soufflé.
DESSERT.
2003.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).—III.
FIRST COURSE.
Green-Pea Soup.
Baked Soles aux fines herbes.
Stewed Trout.
FIRST COURSE.
Green Pea Soup.
Baked Soles with herbs.
Stewed Trout.
ENTREES.
Calf's Liver and Bacon.
Rissoles.
ENTREES.
Calf's Liver & Bacon.
Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad.
Calf's Head à la Tortue.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad.
Calf's Head in Turtle Style.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream.
Strawberry Tartlets.
Lemon Blancmange.
Baked Gooseberry Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Strawberry and Cream Pastry.
Strawberry Tartlets.
Lemon Pudding.
Baked Gooseberry Dessert.
DESSERT.
2004.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Spinach Soup.
Soles à la Crême.
Red Mullet.
FIRST COURSE.
Spinach Soup.
Creamy Sole.
Red Mullet.
ENTREES.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Braised Ham and Spinach.
ENTREES.
Roast Veal Fillet.
Braised Ham with Spinach.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Fowls and White Sauce.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Chickens and White Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Leveret.
Strawberry Jelly.
Swiss Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Iced Pudding.
MAIN COURSE.
Young Hare.
Strawberry Gelatin.
Swiss Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Ice Cream Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JUNE.
2005. Sunday.—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.
2005. Sunday.—1. Salmon trout with parsley and butter, new potatoes. 2. Roast veal fillet, boiled bacon and spinach, mixed vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart and custards.
2006. Monday.—1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart.
2006. Monday.—1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished with rolled bacon, spinach, and potatoes. 3. Raspberry and currant tart.
2007. Tuesday.—1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.
2007. Tuesday.—1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, served with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.
2008. Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, peas, hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.
2008. Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf's liver with bacon, peas, leftover lamb hash. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.
2009. Thursday—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.
2009. Thursday—1. Roast beef ribs, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.
2010. Friday.—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.
2010. Friday.—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb chops and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.
2011. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and cucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding.
2011. Saturday.—1. Rump steak pie, grilled beef bones, and cucumber, with some veggies. 2. Bread pudding.
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2012. Sunday.—1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue.
2012. Sunday.—1. Roast front leg of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tarts. Fondue.
2013. Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas, young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.
2013. Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, braised neck of veal and peas, young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.
2014. Tuesday.—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.
2014. Tuesday.—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks filled with stuffing, gravy, peas, and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.
2015. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry and rice pudding.
2015. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of lamb, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry and rice pudding.
2016. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding.
2016. Thursday.—1. Fried sole, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, diced mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread and butter pudding.
2017. Friday.—1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots and new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.
2017. Friday.—1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, baby carrots, and new potatoes, with suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.
2018. Saturday.—1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and green peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.
2018. Saturday.—1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb chops and green peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.
JULY.
2019.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Green-Pea Soup,
removed by
Salmon and dressed
Cucumber.
Green Pea Soup,
removed by
Salmon and dressed
Cucumber.
Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout
Flowers.
Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout
Flowers.
Soup à la Reine,
removed by
Mackerel à la Maitre
d'Hôtel.
Soup à la Reine,
replaced by
Mackerel à la Maitre
d'Hôtel.
Entrées
Mains
Lamb Cutlets and
Peas.
Lamb Chops and
Peas.
Lobster Curry Vase of Scollops of
en Casserole. Flowers. Chickens.
Lobster Curry Vase of Scallops of
in Casserole. Flowers. Chickens.
Chicken Patties.
Chicken Burgers.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Haunch of Venison.
Venison Haunch.
Pigeon Pie.
Pigeon Pie.
Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens.
Flowers.
Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens.
Flowers.
Braised Ham.
Braised Ham.
Saddle of Lamb.
Lamb saddle.
Third Course.
Main Course
Prawns. Roast Ducks, Custards.
removed by Vanilla Soufflé.
Raspberry Cream.
Prawns. Roast Ducks, Custards.
removed by Vanilla Soufflé.
Raspberry Cream.
Cherry Tart. Vase of Raspberry-and-
Flowers. Currant Tart.
Cherry Tart. Vase of Raspberry-and-
Flowers. Currant Tart.
Strawberry Cream.
Strawberry Cream.
Green Goose,
removed by
Creams. Iced Pudding. Tartlets.
Green Goose,
removed by
Creams. Iced Pudding. Tartlets.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2020.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (July).
2020.—DINNER FOR 12 PEOPLE (July).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup à la Jardinière.
Chicken Soup.
Crimped Salmon and Parsley-and-Butter.
Trout aux fines herbes, in cases.
Soup à la Jardinière.
Chicken Soup.
Crimped Salmon with Parsley and Butter.
Herb-Seasoned Trout, served in cases.
ENTREES.
Tendrons de Veau and Peas.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
ENTRÉES.
Veal Tenderloin and Peas.
Lamb Chops and Cucumbers.
SECOND COURSE.
Loin of Veal à la Béchamel.
Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Salad.
Braised Ham, garnished with Broad Beans.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Veal Loin with Béchamel Sauce.
Roasted Lamb Shoulder.
Salad.
Braised Ham, served with Broad Beans.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Turkey Poult.
Stewed Peas à la Francaise.
Lobster Salad.
Cherry Tart.
Raspberry-and-Currant Tart.
Custards, in glasses.
Lemon Creams.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Marrow Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Young Turkey.
French-Style Stewed Peas.
Lobster Salad.
Cherry Tart.
Raspberry and Currant Tart.
Custards in glasses.
Lemon Creams.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Marrow Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2021.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (July)
2021.—DINNER FOR 8 (July)
FIRST COURSE.
Green-Pea Soup.
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Crimped Perch and Dutch Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Green Pea Soup.
Salmon with Lobster Sauce.
Crimped Perch with Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES.
Stewed Veal and Peas.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
ENTREES.
Braised Veal with Peas.
Lamb Chops with Cucumbers.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Venison.
Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel.
Braised Ham.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Venison Haunch.
Boiled Chicken in Béchamel Sauce.
Braised Ham.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
Peas à la Française.
Lobster Salad.
Strawberry Cream.
Blancmange.
Cherry Tart.
Cheesecakes.
Iced Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Ducks.
French Peas.
Lobster Salad.
Strawberry Cream.
Blancmange.
Cherry Tart.
Cheesecakes.
Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2022.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).—I.
2022.—DINNER FOR 6 (July).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Soup à la Jardinière.
Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter.
Fillets of Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
FIRST COURSE.
Vegetable Soup.
Salmon Trout with Parsley Butter.
Mackerel Fillets with Hotel-Style Butter.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Beef Palates à la Italienne.
MAIN DISHES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Italian Beef Steaks.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Boiled Capon and White Sauce.
Boiled Tongue, garnished with small Vegetable Marrows.
Bacon and Beans.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Boiled Capon with White Sauce.
Boiled Tongue, served with small Vegetable Marrows.
Bacon and Beans.
THIRD COURSE.
Goslings.
Whipped Strawberry Cream.
Raspberry-and-Currant Tart.
Meringues.
Cherry Tartlets.
Iced Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Young Geese.
Whipped Strawberry Cream.
Raspberry and Currant Tart.
Meringues.
Cherry Tartlets.
Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2023.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).—II.
2023.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (July).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Crimped Salmon and Caper Sauce.
Whitebait.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Crimped Salmon with Caper Sauce.
Whitebait.
ENTREES.
Croquettes à la Reine.
Curried Lobster.
ENTREES.
Queen's Croquettes.
Curried Lobster.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Rump of Beef with Garden Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Larded Turkey Poult.
Raspberry Cream.
Cherry Tart.
Custards, in glasses.
Gâteaux à la Genévése.
Nesselrode Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Stuffed Turkey.
Raspberry Cream.
Cherry Pie.
Custards in glasses.
Gâteaux à la Genève.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JULY.
2024. Sunday.—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet of real, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, baked custard pudding.
2024. Sunday.—1. Salmon trout with parsley and butter. 2. Roast fillet of real boiled bacon, peas, and potatoes. 3. Raspberry and currant tart, baked custard pudding.
2025. Monday.—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with water-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart.
2025. Monday.—1. Green pea soup. 2. Roast chicken with watercress; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry pie.
2026. Tuesday.—1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold fillet. 3. Strawberry cream.
2026. Tuesday.—1. John dory with lobster sauce. 2. Curried chicken with leftover cold chicken, a dish of rice, and veal rolls with leftover cold fillet. 3. Strawberry cream.
2027. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow, and potatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.
2027. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of lamb, zucchini, and potatoes, with melted butter. 2. Black currant pudding.
2028. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and tomato sauce, bashed mutton, peas, potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings.
2028. Thursday.—1. Fried soles with anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets with tomato sauce, mashed mutton, peas, and potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings.
2029. Friday.—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.
2029. Friday.—1. Boiled beef brisket, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.
2030. Saturday.—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
2030. Saturday.—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb chops and peas. 2. Rolled jam cake.
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2031. Sunday.—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf's head, tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards.
2031. Sunday.—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half a calf's head, tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas, and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards.
2032. Monday.—1. Hashed calf's head, cold lamb and salad. 2. Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding.
2032. Monday.—1. Shredded calf's head, cold lamb, and salad. 2. Zucchini with white sauce instead of dessert.
2033. Tuesday.—1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding.
2033. Tuesday.—1. Braised veal, with peas, young carrots, and potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry and currant pudding.
2034. Wednesday.—1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; the remains of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet pudding.
2034. Wednesday.—1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; the leftovers of stewed veal reheated. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet pudding.
2035. Thursday.—1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. Black-currant pudding.
2035. Thursday.—1. Salmon slices with caper sauce. 2. Boiled veal knuckle with parsley and butter, vegetable marrow, and potatoes. 3. Black currant pudding.
2036. Friday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and potatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.
2036. Friday.—1. Roast shoulder of lamb, onion sauce, peas, and potatoes. 2. Cherry pie, baked custard pudding.
2037. Saturday.—1. Minced mutton, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2. Baked lemon pudding.
2037. Saturday.—1. Minced lamb, steak and kidney pie. 2. Baked lemon pudding.
AUGUST.
2038.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Mock-Turtle Soup,
removed by
Broiled Salmon and
Caper Sauce.
Mock-Turtle Soup,
replaced by
Grilled Salmon and
Caper Sauce.
Red Mullet. Vase of Perch.
Flowers.
Red Mullet. Vase of Perch.
Flowers.
Soup à la Julienne,
removed by
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Soup à la Julienne,
removed by
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Entrées.
Main courses.
Fricandeau de Veau
à la Jardinière.
Veal Fricandeau
with Garden Vegetables.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Lamb Cutlets à la Purée
Flowers. de Pommes de Terre.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Lamb Cutlets with Mashed Potatoes.
Flowers.
Fillets of Ducks
and Peas.
Duck Fillets
and Peas.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Haunch of Venison.
Venison leg.
Ham, garnished.
Ham, garnished.
Capon à la Vase of Roast Fowl.
Financière Flowers.
Capon with a Vase of Roast Chicken.
Financial Flowers.
Leveret Pie.
Leveret Pie.
Saddle of Mutton.
Mutton saddle.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Grouse,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Grouse,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Lobster Salad. Fruit Jelly. Cheesecakes.
Lobster Salad. Fruit Jelly. Cheesecakes.
Charlotte à la Vase of Custards.
Vanille. Flowers.
Charlotte à la Vase of Custards.
Vanilla. Flowers.
Raspberry Vol-au-Vent Prawns.
Tartlets. of Pears.
Raspberry Vol-au-Vent Prawns.
Tartlets. of Pears.
Larded Peahen,
removed by
Iced Pudding.
Larded Peahen,
removed by
Chilled Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2039.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (August)
2039.—DINNER FOR 12 PEOPLE (August)
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Soup à la Reine.
Boiled Salmon.
Fried Flounders.
Trout en Matelot.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Queen's Soup.
Boiled Salmon.
Fried Flounders.
Trout in Wine Sauce.
ENTREES.
Stewed Pigeons.
Sweetbreads.
Ragoût of Ducks.
Fillets of Chickens and Mushrooms.
ENTREES.
Braised Pigeons.
Sweetbreads.
Duck Ragu.
Chicken and Mushroom Fillets.
SECOND COURSE.
Quarter of Lamb.
Cotelette de Boeuf à la Jardinière.
Roast Fowls and Boiled Tongue.
Bacon and Beans.
SECOND COURSE.
Quarter of Lamb.
Beef Chops with Garden Vegetables.
Roast Chicken and Boiled Tongue.
Bacon and Beans.
THIRD COURSE.
Grouse.
Wheatears.
Greengage Tart.
Whipped Cream.
Vol-au-Vent of Plums.
Fruit Jelly.
Iced Pudding.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Grouse.
Wheatears.
Greengage Tart.
Whipped Cream.
Vol-au-Vent of Plums.
Fruit Jelly.
Iced Pudding.
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERTS AND ICES.
2040.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (August).
2040.—DINNER FOR 8 (August).
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Fillets of Turbot and Dutch Sauce.
Red Mullet.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Turbot Fillets with Dutch Sauce.
Red Mullet.
ENTREES.
Riz de Veau aux Tomates.
Fillets of Ducks and Peas.
ENTREES.
Veal Rice with Tomatoes.
Duck Fillets and Peas.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Venison.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Ham, garnished.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Venison Haunch.
Boiled Capon with Oysters.
Garnished Ham.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Leveret.
Fruit Jelly.
Compote of Greengages.
Plum Tart. Custards, in glasses.
Omelette soufflé.
THIRD COURSE.
Rabbit.
Fruit Jelly.
Greengage Compote.
Plum Tart. Custards in glasses.
Soufflé Omelette.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2041.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).—I.
2041.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (August).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Crimped Salmon and Sauce Hollandaise.
Fried Fillets of Trout.
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Crimped Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce.
Fried Trout Fillets.
ENTREES.
Tendrons de Veau and Stewed Peas.
Salmi of Grouse.
ENTREES.
Veal Shanks and Stewed Peas.
Grouse Stew.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Bacon, garnished with French Beans.
Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Bacon, served with French Beans.
Stewed Beef with Garden Vegetables.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Turkey Poult.
Plum Tart.
Custard Pudding.
Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
Strawberry Cream.
Ratafia Soufflé.
THIRD COURSE.
Turkey Breast.
Plum Pie.
Custard Dessert.
Pear Pastry.
Strawberry Cream.
Ratafia Soufflé.
DESSERT.
2042.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).—II.
2042.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (August).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Vegetable-Marrow Soup.
Stowed Mullet.
Fillets of Salmon and Ravigotte Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Vegetable Marrow Soup.
Stewed Mullet.
Salmon Fillets with Ravigotte Sauce.
ENTREES.
Curried Lobster.
Fricandeau de Veau à la Jardinière.
ENTREES.
Curried Lobster.
Braised Veal with Mixed Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Stewed Shoulder of Veal, garnished with Forcemeat Balls.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Stewed Shoulder of Veal, served with Meatballs.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Grouse and Bread Sauce.
Vol-au-Vent of Greengages.
Fruit Jolly.
Raspberry Cream.
Custards.
Fig Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Grouse with Bread Sauce.
Vol-au-Vent of Greengages.
Fruit Jelly.
Raspberry Cream.
Custards.
Fig Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR AUGUST.
2043. Sunday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb, mint sauce, French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, custard pudding.
2043. Sunday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb, mint sauce, green beans, and potatoes. 3. Raspberry and currant tart with custard.
2044. Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat pie, vegetable marrow and white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings.
2044. Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, a small meat pie, vegetable marrow with white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings.
2045. Tuesday.—1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, French beans and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding.
2045. Tuesday.—1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed veal loin, green beans, and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding.
2046. Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French beans; the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable marrow. 3. Black-currant pudding.
2046. Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb chops and green beans; leftover stewed shoulder of veal, mashed squash. 3. Black currant pudding.
2047. Thursday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, French beans and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding.
2047. Thursday.—1. Roast beef ribs, Yorkshire pudding, green beans, and potatoes. 2. Bread and butter pudding.
2048. Friday.—1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauce instead of pudding.
2048. Friday.—1. Fried soles with melted butter. 2. Cold beef with salad, lamb chops with mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflower with white sauce instead of dessert.
2049. Saturday.—1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of cold beef; mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese.
2049. Saturday.—1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with leftover cold beef; mutton pudding. 2. Mac and cheese.
* * * * *
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2050. Sunday.—1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, French beans and potatoes. 3. Plum tart, boiled custard pudding.
2050. Sunday.—1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon cheek garnished with cauliflower florets, green beans, and potatoes. 3. Plum tart with custard.
2051. Monday.—1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding.
2051. Monday.—1. Baked fish. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, lamb cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding.
2052. Tuesday.—1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiled knuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with croutons; vegetables. 3. College puddings.
2052. Tuesday.—1. Rice soup. 2. Roast chickens and watercress, boiled ham knuckle, minced veal with croutons; vegetables. 3. College puddings.
2053. Wednesday.—1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl; dish of rice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart.
2053. Wednesday.—1. Curried chicken with leftover cold chicken; a dish of rice, stewed beef rump, and vegetables. 2. Plum pie.
2054. Thursday.—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.
2054. Thursday.—1. Boiled beef brisket, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.
2055. Friday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Fondue.
2055. Friday.—1. Vegetable soup made from the broth of boiled beef. 2. Cold beef with dressed cucumber, veal cutlets with tomato sauce. 3. Fondue.
2056. Saturday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold beef; cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding.
2056. Saturday.—1. Bubble and squeak, made from leftovers of cold beef; cold veal and ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding.
SEPTEMBER.
2057.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
First Course.
Julienne Soup,
removed by
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Julienne Soup,
taken out by
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Red Mullet & Vase of Fried Eels.
Italian Sauce. Flowers.
Red Mullet & Vase of Fried Eels.
Italian Sauce. Flowers.
Giblet Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Giblet Soup,
replaced by
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Entrées.
Main Dishes.
Lamb Cutlets and
French Beans.
Lamb Chops and
Green Beans.
Fillets of Chicken Vase of Oysters au gratin.
and Truffles. Flowers.
Fillets of Chicken Vase of Oysters au gratin.
and Truffles. Flowers.
Sweetbreads and
Tomata Sauce.
Sweetbreads and
Tomato Sauce.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Saddle of Mutton.
Saddle of Lamb.
Veal-and-Ham Pie.
Veal and Ham Pie.
Chickens à la Vase of Braised Goose.
Béchamel. Flowers.
Chickens with Vase of Braised Goose.
Béchamel. Flowers.
Broiled Ham, garnished
with Cauliflowers.
Grilled ham with cauliflower.
Filet of Veal.
Veal Fillet.
Third Course.
Main Course.
Custards. Partridges, Apple Tart. removed by Plum-pudding.
Custards. Partridges, Apple Tart. removed by Plum-pudding.
Compôte of Greengages.
Greengage compote.
Noyeau Jelly. Vase of Lemon Cream.
Flowers.
Noyeau Jelly. Vase of Lemon Cream.
Flowers.
Pastry Sandwiches.
Pastry Sandwiches.
Grouse & Bread Sauce,
removed by
Plum Tart. Nesselrode Pudding. Custards.
Grouse & Bread Sauce,
served with
Plum Tart. Nesselrode Pudding. Custards.
DESSERTS AND ICES.
2058.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (September).
Dinner for 12 (September 2058).
FIRST COURSE.
Mock-Turtle Soup.
Soup à la Jardinière
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Whitings.
Stewed Eels.
Mock-Turtle Soup.
Vegetable Soup
Salmon with Lobster Sauce.
Fried Whiting.
Braised Eels.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets.
Scalloped Oysters.
Curried Fowl.
Grilled Mushrooms.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets.
Scalloped Oysters.
Curried Chicken.
Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Calf's Head à la Béchamel.
Braised Ham.
Roast Fowls aux Cressons.
SECOND COURSE.
Leg of Lamb.
Boiled Calf's Head with Béchamel Sauce.
Braised Ham.
Roast Chickens with Watercress.
THIRD COURSE.
Leveret.
Grouse.
Cabinet Pudding.
Iced Pudding.
Compôte of Plumbs.
Damson Tart.
Cream.
Fruit Jelly.
Prawns.
Lobster Salad.
THIRD COURSE.
Young Rabbit.
Grouse.
Cabinet Pudding.
Iced Pudding.
Stewed Plums.
Damson Tart.
Cream.
Fruit Jelly.
Prawns.
Lobster Salad.
DESSERTS AND ICES.
2059.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (September).
2059.—DINNER FOR 8 (September).
FIRST COURSE.
Flemish Soup.
Turbot, garnished with Fried Smelts.
Red Mullet and Italian Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Flemish Soup.
Turbot, served with Fried Smelts.
Red Mullet with Italian Sauce.
ENTREES.
Tendrons de Veau and Truffles.
Lamb Cutlets and Sauce Piquante.
ENTREES.
Veal Sweetbreads and Truffles.
Lamb Chops with Spicy Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Loin of Veal à la Béchamel.
Roast Haunch of Venison.
Braised Ham.
Grouse Pie.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Veal Loin with Béchamel Sauce.
Roasted Venison Leg.
Braised Ham.
Grouse Pie.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare.
Plum Tart.
Whipped Cream.
Punch Jelly.
Compôte of Damsons.
Marrow Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare.
Plum Tart.
Whipped Cream.
Punch Jelly.
Damson Compote.
Marrow Pudding.
DESSERT.
2060.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).
2060.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (September).
FIRST COURSE.
Game Soup.
Crimped Skate.
Slices of Salmon a la Genévése.
FIRST COURSE.
Game Soup.
Crimped Skate.
Slices of Salmon à la Genève.
ENTREES.
Fricasseed Sweetbreads.
Savoury Rissoles.
ENTREES.
Fricassee Sweetbreads.
Savory Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE.
Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Mutton and Caper Sauce.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Sirloin of Beef with Horseradish Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Partridges.
Charlotte Russe.
Apricots and Rice.
Fruit Jelly.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Partridges.
Charlotte Russe.
Apricots and Rice.
Fruit Jelly.
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT.
2061.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).—II.
2061.—DINNER FOR 6 (September).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Thick Gravy Soup.
Fillets of Turbot à la Crême.
Stewed Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Thick Gravy Soup.
Turbot Fillets in Cream.
Braised Eels.
ENTREES.
Vol-au-Vent of Lobster.
Salmi of Grouse.
ENTREES.
Lobster Vol-au-Vent.
Grouse Salmi.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Venison.
Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
Hare, boned and larded, with Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Venison Haunch.
Roast Beef with Vegetables.
Stuffed Hare with Mushrooms.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Grouse.
Apricot Blancmange.
Compôte of peaches.
Plum Tart.
Custards.
Plum-pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Grouse.
Apricot Blancmange.
Peach Compote.
Plum Tart.
Custards.
Plum Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR SEPTEMBER.
2062. Sunday.—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage pudding, vanilla cream.
2062. Sunday.—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast beef ribs, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, green beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage pudding with vanilla cream.
2063. Monday.—1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef and salad; small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow and white sauce.
2063. Monday.—1. Crimped skate with crab sauce. 2. Cold beef with salad; small veal and ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow with white sauce.
2064. Tuesday.—1. Fried solos, melted butter. 2. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon-check, garnished with French beans; beef rissoles, made from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream.
2064. Tuesday.—1. Fried fish fillets, melted butter. 2. Boiled chicken, parsley and butter; bacon with a side of French beans; beef rissoles made from leftover cold beef. 3. Plum tart with cream.
2065. Wednesday.—1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suet dumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice.
2065. Wednesday.—1. Boiled beef roast, carrots, turnips, and suet dumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice.
2066. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Apple pudding.
2066. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from the broth that beef was cooked in. 2. Lamb chops and cucumbers, cold beef, and salad. 3. Apple pie.
2067. Friday.—1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from cold beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.
2067. Friday.—1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble and squeak, made from cold beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.
2068. Saturday.—1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Somersetshire dumplings.
2068. Saturday.—1. Irish stew, ribeye steaks, and oyster sauce. 2. Somerset dumplings.
* * * * *
* * * * *
2069. Sunday.—1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg of mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half calf's head, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart; custards, in glasses.
2069. Sunday.—1. Fried fillets of sole with anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg of mutton with brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half a calf's head, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart; custards served in glasses.
2070. Monday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf's head à la maitre d'hôtel, from remains of cold head; boiled brisket of beef and vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding.
2070. Monday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf's head with maître d'hôtel sauce, made from leftovers; boiled brisket of beef and vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding.
1071. Tuesday.—1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; boiled bacon, garnished with tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from remains of mutton of Sunday. 2. Baked plum-pudding.
1071. Tuesday.—1. Roast chicken and watercress; boiled bacon, topped with cauliflower florets; leftover mutton, from Sunday’s roast. 2. Baked plum pudding.
2072. Wednesday.—1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips, potatoes; small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Baked apple pudding.
2072. Wednesday.—1. Boiled veal knuckle with rice, turnips, and potatoes; small ham, served with French beans. 2. Baked apple pie.
2073. Thursday.—1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped oysters, instead of pudding.
2073. Thursday.—1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped oysters, instead of dessert.
2074. Friday.—1. Small roast loin of mutton; the remains of hare, jugged; vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.
2074. Friday.—1. A small roast loin of lamb; leftover hare, cooked in a stew; zucchini and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.
2075. Saturday.—1. Rump-steaks, broiled, and oyster sauce, mashed potatoes; veal-and-ham pie,—the ham may be cut from that boiled on Wednesday, if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2, Lemon pudding.
2075. Saturday.—1. Grilled rump steaks with oyster sauce, mashed potatoes; veal and ham pie—the ham can be taken from the one boiled on Wednesday, if it hasn't all been eaten cold for breakfast. 2. Lemon pudding.
OCTOBER.
2076.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course
Appetizer
Mock-Turtle Soup,
removed by
Crimped Cod and Oyster
Sauce.
Mock-Turtle Soup,
replaced by
Crimped Cod and Oyster
Sauce.
Soles à la Vase of Red Mullet.
Normandie. Flowers.
Soles à la Vase of Red Mullet.
Normandy. Flowers.
Julienne Soup,
removed by
John Dory and Dutch
Sauce.
Julienne Soup,
taken out by
John Dory and Dutch
Sauce.
Entrées
Main Dishes
Sweetbreads and Tomata
Sauce.
Sweetbreads and Tomato Sauce.
Oyster Patties. Vase of Stewed Mushrooms.
Flowers.
Oyster Patties. Bowl of Stewed Mushrooms.
Flowers.
Fricandeau de Veau and
Celery Sauce.
Veal Fricandeau and
Celery Sauce.
Second Course.
Second Course.
Roast Saddle of
Mutton.
Roasted Saddle of Mutton.
Grouse Pie.
Grouse Pot Pie.
Roast Goose. Vase of Boiled Fowls and
Flowers. Oyster Sauce.
Roast Goose. Vase of Boiled Chicken and
Flowers. Oyster Sauce.
Ham.
Ham.
Larded Turkey.
Stuffed Turkey.
Third Course.
Third Course.
Custards. Pheasants, Prawns.
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Custards. Pheasants, Prawns.
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Italian Cream.
Italian Cream Cake.
Gâteau de Vase of Compôte of
Pommes. Flowers. Plums.
Gâteau de Vase of Compôte of
Apples. Flowers. Plums.
Peach Jelly.
Peach Jam.
Roast Hare,
removed by
Lobster Salad. Iced Pudding. Apple Tart.
Roast Hare,
followed by
Lobster Salad. Iced Pudding. Apple Tart.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2077.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (OCTOBER).
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup à la Créci.
Soup à la Reine.
Baked Cod.
Stewed Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup à la Créci.
Soup à la Reine.
Baked Cod.
Stewed Eels.
ENTREES.
Riz de Veau and Tomata Sauce.
Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
Pork Cutlets and Sauce Robert.
Grilled Mushrooms.
ENTREES.
Veal Rice with Tomato Sauce.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Pork Chops with Robert Sauce.
Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
Roast Goose.
Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, garnished.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Rump of Beef with Vegetables.
Roast Goose.
Boiled Chicken with Celery Sauce.
Garnished Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Grouse.
Pheasants.
Quince Jelly.
Lemon Cream.
Apple Tart.
Compote of Peaches.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Cabinet Pudding.
Scalloped Oysters.
THIRD COURSE.
Grouse.
Pheasants.
Quince Jelly.
Lemon Cream.
Apple Tart.
Peach Compote.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Cabinet Pudding.
Scalloped Oysters.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2078.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (October).
2078.—DINNER FOR 8 PEOPLE (October).
FIRST COURSE.
Calf's-Head Soup.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Stewed Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Calf’s Head Soup.
Crimped Cod with Oyster Sauce.
Stewed Eels.
ENTREES.
Stewed Mutton Kidneys.
Curried Sweetbreads.
MAIN COURSES.
Braised Mutton Kidneys.
Curried Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, garnished with Carrots and Turnips. Roast Goose.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled leg of lamb, garnished with carrots and turnips. Roast goose.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream.
Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
Apple Tart.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream.
Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
Apple Tart.
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2079.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).—I.
2079.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (October).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Hare Soup.
Broiled Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Haddocks and Egg Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Hare Soup.
Grilled Cod with Herb Butter.
Haddock with Egg Sauce.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets, garnished with French Beans.
Haricot Mutton.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets, served with French Beans.
Haricot Mutton.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Rice.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Lamb.
Boiled Chicken and Rice.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Pheasants.
Punch Jelly. Blancmange.
Apples à la Portugaise.
Charlotte à la Vanille.
Marrow Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Pheasants.
Punch Jelly. Blancmange.
Apples à la Portugaise.
Vanilla Charlotte.
Marrow Pudding.
DESSERT.
2080.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).—II.
2080.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (October).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Mock-Turtle Soup.
Brill and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Whitings.
FIRST COURSE.
Mock-Turtle Soup.
Brill and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Whitings.
ENTREES.
Fowl à la Béchamel.
Oyster Patties.
ENTREES.
Chicken Béchamel.
Oyster Pastries.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Sucking-Pig.
Stewed Hump of Beef à la Jardinière.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Suckling Pig.
Braised Beef Hump with Garden Vegetables.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Grouse.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Coffee Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Apricot Tart.
Iced Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Grouse.
Apple Charlotte.
Coffee Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Apricot Tart.
Iced Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR OCTOBER.
2081. Sunday.—1. Roast sucking-pig, tomata sauce and brain sauce; small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson tart, boiled batter pudding.
2081. Sunday.—1. Roast piglet, tomato sauce and brain sauce; small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson tart, boiled batter pudding.
2082. Monday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton was boiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies.
2082. Monday.—1. Vegetable soup made from the broth that the mutton was boiled in. 2. Sucking pig in white sauce, small meat pie, green beans, and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies.
2083. Tuesday.—1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; slices of mutton warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding.
2083. Tuesday.—1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; warmed slices of mutton in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum pudding.
2084. Wednesday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.
2084. Wednesday.—1. Roast beef ribs, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.
2085. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Macaroni.
2085. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad; mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.
2086. Friday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce; bacon-check, garnished with greens; beef rissoles, from remains of cold beef. 3. Baroness pudding.
2086. Friday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled chicken with celery sauce; bacon bits, served with greens; beef patties made from leftover cold beef. 3. Baroness pudding.
2087. Saturday.—1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto; dish of rice, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and sponge cakes.
2087. Saturday.—1. Curried chicken, made from leftover cold chicken; plate of rice, steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and sponge cakes.
* * * * *
* * * * *
2088. Sunday.—1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked custards in cups.
2088. Sunday.—1. Crimped cod with oyster sauce. 2. Roast leg of mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked custards in cups.
2089. Monday.—1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in a maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolled bacon, French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed damsons. 2090. Tuesday.—1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; hashed mutton, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings.
2089. Monday.—1. Flaked codfish, heated in a maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Cold mutton with salad, veal cutlets with rolled bacon, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed damsons. 2090. Tuesday.—1. Roast hare with gravy and red-currant jelly; hashed mutton with vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings.
2091. Wednesday.—1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiled knuckle of veal and rice; boiled bacon-cheek. 2. Apple pudding.
2091. Wednesday.—1. Stewed hare, from leftovers of roasted one; boiled veal knuckle and rice; boiled bacon cheek. 2. Apple pudding.
2092. Thursday.—1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, and potatoes. 2. Rice snowballs.
2092. Thursday.—1. Roast pork leg, apple sauce, greens, and potatoes. 2. Rice balls.
2093. Friday.—1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomata sauce, mashed potatoes; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked apple pudding.
2093. Friday.—1. Grilled pork slices with tomato sauce, mashed potatoes; roasted pheasants with bread sauce and gravy. 2. Baked apple pudding.
2094. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding.
2094. Saturday.—1. Rump steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding.
NOVEMBER. 2095.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Thick Grouse Soup,
removed by
Crimped Cod and Oyster
Sauce.
Thick Grouse Soup,
followed by
Crimped Cod and Oyster
Sauce.
Baked Whitings. Vase of Fried Smelts.
Flowers.
Baked Whitings. Vase of Fried Smelts.
Flowers.
Clear Ox-tail Soup,
removed by
Fillets of Turbot à la
Crême.
Clear Ox-tail Soup,
followed by
Fillets of Turbot in
Cream.
Entrées.
Main courses.
Poulet à la Marengo.
Chicken Marengo.
Fillets of Leveret. Vase of Ragoût of Lobster.
Flowers.
Fillets of Leveret. Vase of Lobster Ragoût.
Flowers.
Mushrooms sautés.
Sautéed mushrooms.
Second Course.
Second Course.
Haunch of Mutton.
Mutton Leg.
Cold Game Pie.
Cold Game Pie.
Lark Pudding. Vase of Roast Fowls.
Flowers.
Lark Pudding. Vase of Roast Chickens.
Flowers.
Boiled Ham.
Boiled ham.
Boiled Turkey and Celery
Sauce.
Turkey and Celery Soup
Sauce.
Third Course.
Course Three.
Apple Tart. Partridges, Shell-Fish.
removed by
Plum-pudding.
Apple Tart. Partridges, Shellfish.
removed by
Plum pudding.
Wine Jelly.
Wine Jelly.
Pommes à la Vase of Vol-au-Vent
Condé. Flowers. of Pears.
Pommes à la Vase of Vol-au-Vent
Condé. Flowers. of Pears.
Snipes,
removed by
Prawns. Charlotte glacée. Apricot
Tartlets.
Snipes,
removed by
Prawns. Chilled Charlotte. Apricot
Tartlets.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2096.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (November).
2096.—DINNER FOR 12 (November).
FIRST COURSE.
Hare Soup.
Julienne Soup.
Baked Cod.
Soles à la Normandie.
FIRST COURSE.
Hare Soup.
Julienne Soup.
Baked Cod.
Soles à la Normandie.
ENTREES.
Riz de Veau aux Tomates.
Lobster Patties.
Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.
Croûtades of Marrow aux fines herbes.
ENTREES.
Veal Rice with Tomatoes.
Lobster Cakes.
Mutton Chops with Soubise Sauce.
Croutons of Bone Marrow with Herbs.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Sirloin of Beef.
Braised Goose.
Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Bacon-cheek, garnished with Sprouts.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Sirloin of Beef.
Braised Goose.
Boiled Chickens with Celery Sauce.
Bacon Cheek, garnished with Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Partridges.
Apples à la Portugaise.
Bavarian Cream.
Apricot-jam Sandwiches.
Cheesecakes.
Charlotte à la Vanille.
Plum-pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Partridges.
Portuguese-Style Apples.
Bavarian Cream.
Apricot Jam Sandwiches.
Cheesecakes.
Vanilla Charlotte.
Plum Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2097.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Fried slices of Codfish and Oyster Sauce.
Eels en Matelote.
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Fried Codfish with Oyster Sauce.
Eels in Matelote.
ENTREES.
Broiled Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.
Tendrons de Veau à la Jardinière.
ENTREES.
Broiled Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce.
Veal Shanks with Garden Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.
Roast Goose.
Cold Game Pie.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.
Roast Goose.
Cold Game Pie.
THIRD COURSE.
Snipes.
Teal.
Apple Soufflé.
Iced Charlotte.
Tartlets.
Champagne Jelly.
Coffee Cream.
Mince Pies.
THIRD COURSE.
Snipes.
Teal.
Apple Soufflé.
Iced Charlotte.
Tartlets.
Champagne Jelly.
Coffee Cream.
Mince Pies.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2098.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).
FIRST COURSE.
Oyster Soup.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Fried Perch and Dutch Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Oyster Soup.
Crimped Cod with Oyster Sauce.
Fried Perch with Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES.
Pigs' Feet à la Béchamel.
Curried Rabbit.
ENTREES.
Pigs' Feet in Béchamel Sauce.
Curried Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Sucking-Pig.
Boiled Fowls and Oyster Sauce.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Sucking-Pig.
Boiled Chickens and Oyster Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Jugged Hare.
Meringues à la Crême.
Apple Custard.
Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
Whipped Cream.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Braised Hare.
Cream Meringues.
Apple Custard.
Pear Puff Pastry.
Whipped Cream.
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT.
2099.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Game Soup.
Slices of Codfish and Dutch Sauce.
Fried Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Game Soup.
Slices of Cod and Dutch Sauce.
Fried Eels.
ENTREES.
Kidneys à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Oyster Patties.
ENTREES.
Kidneys à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Rice.
Small Ham.
Lark Pudding.
SECOND COURSE.
Saddle of Lamb.
Boiled Chicken and Rice.
Small Ham.
Lark Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare.
Apple Tart.
Pineapple Cream.
Clear Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Marrow Pudding.
Nesselrode Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roasted Hare.
Apple Tart.
Pineapple Cream.
Clear Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Marrow Pudding.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR NOVEMBER.
2100. Sunday.—1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, haricot beans, potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding.
2100. Sunday.—1. Creamy soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, green beans, potatoes. 3. Apple pie, ginger cake.
2101. Monday.—1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolled bacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding.
2101. Monday.—1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets wrapped in bacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding.
2102. Tuesday.—1. Roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiled bacon-cheek; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding.
2102. Tuesday.—1. Roast chicken, served with watercress; boiled bacon; leftover mutton from the leg, chopped up. 2. Apple pudding.
2103. Wednesday.—1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots, parsnips, and pease-pudding; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2. Baroness pudding.
2103. Wednesday.—1. Boiled pork leg, carrots, parsnips, and pea pudding; chicken croquettes made from leftover cold chicken. 2. Baroness pudding.
2104. Thursday.—1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roast partridges, bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of pudding cut into neat slices, and warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over; apple fritters.
2104. Thursday.—1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roasted partridges, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. The leftover pudding cut into neat slices, warmed up, and served with sifted sugar on top; apple fritters.
2105. Friday.—1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump-steak and oyster sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni.
2105. Friday.—1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump steak and oyster sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni.
2106. Saturday.—1. Jugged hare; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding.
2106. Saturday.—1. Stewed hare; small mutton pie. 2. Fig pudding.
* * * * *
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2107. Sunday.—1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast fowls, small boiled ham, vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam tart.
2107. Sunday.—1. Crimped cod with oyster sauce. 2. Roast chicken, boiled ham, vegetables; rump steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam tart.
2108. Monday.—1. The remainder of cod warmed in maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suet dumplings. 3. Baked bread-and-butter pudding.
2108. Monday.—1. The leftover cod warmed up in maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, and suet dumplings. 3. Baked bread-and-butter pudding.
2109. Tuesday.—1. Pea-soup, made from liquor in which beef was boiled. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Carrot pudding.
2109. Tuesday.—1. Pea soup, made from the broth that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Carrot pudding.
2110. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese.
2110. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles with melted butter. 2. Roasted leg of pork with apple sauce and vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese.
2111. Thursday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef; curried pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding.
2111. Thursday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak made from leftover cold beef; curried pork. 2. Baked semolina pudding.
2112. Friday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Apple tart.
2112. Friday.—1. Roast leg of lamb, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Apple pie.
2113. Saturday.—1. Hashed mutton; boiled rabbit and onion sauce; vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit.
2113. Saturday.—1. Chopped mutton; boiled rabbit with onion sauce; vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with canned fruit.
DECEMBER.
2114.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Appetizer.
Mock-Turtle Soup,
removed by
Cod's Head and Shoulders
and Oyster Sauce.
Mock-Turtle Soup,
replaced by
Cod's Head and Shoulders
and Oyster Sauce.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings.
Flowers.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings.
Flowers.
Julienne Soup,
removed by
Soles aux fines herbes.
Julienne Soup,
replaced by
Soles with fine herbs.
Entrées.
Main Courses.
Fillets of Grouse and
Sauce Piquante.
Grouse fillets with Piquante sauce.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Mutton Cutlets and
Flowers. Soubise Sauce.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Mutton Cutlets and
Flowers. Soubise Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
Sweetbreads.
Second Course.
Main Course.
Haunch of Mutton.
Mutton leg.
Ham and Brussels
Sprouts.
Ham and Brussels sprouts.
Roast Goose. Vase of Stewed Beef à la
Flowers. Jardinière.
Roast Goose. Vase of Stewed Beef à la
Flowers. Jardinière.
Game Pie.
Game Pie.
Boiled Turkey and
Celery Sauce.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Third Course.
Main Course.
Apricot Torte. Pheasants, Victoria removed by Sandwiches.
Apricot Torte. Pheasants, Victoria removed by Sandwiches.
Plum-pudding.
Plum pudding.
Vanilla Cream.
Vanilla Cream.
Lemon Jelly. Vase of Champagne Jelly.
Flowers.
Lemon Jelly. Vase of Champagne Jelly.
Flowers.
Blancmange.
Blancmange.
Wild Ducks,
removed by
Tipsy Cake. Iced Pudding. Mince Pies.
Wild Ducks,
removed by
Tipsy Cake. Iced Pudding. Mince Pies.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2115.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (December).
2115.—DINNER FOR 12 (December).
FIRST COURSE.
Game Soup.
Clear Vermicelli Soup.
Codfish au gratin.
Fillets of Whitings à la Maître d'Hôtel.
FIRST COURSE.
Game Soup.
Clear Vermicelli Soup.
Codfish au gratin.
Fillets of Whitings à la Maître d'Hôtel.
ENTREES.
Filet de Boeuf and Sauce Piquante.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Oyster Patties.
Curried Rabbit.
ENTREES.
Beef Tenderloin with Spicy Sauce.
Fried Chicken.
Oyster Pastries.
Curried Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables.
Roast Goose.
Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables.
Roast Goose.
Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
THIRD COURSE.
Widgeon.
Partridges.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Mince Pies.
Orange Jelly.
Lemon Cream.
Apple Tart.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Widgeon.
Partridges.
Apple Charlotte.
Mince Pies.
Orange Jelly.
Lemon Cream.
Apple Tart.
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2116.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (December).
2116.—DINNER FOR 10 PEOPLE (December).
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Fried Slices of Codfish.
Soles à la Crême.
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Fried Slices of Cod.
Soles in Cream Sauce.
ENTREES.
Croquettes of Fowl.
Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.
ENTREES.
Chicken Croquettes.
Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Ribs of Beef.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, garnished.
Lark Pudding. Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Beef Ribs.
Boiled Turkey with Celery Sauce.
Garnished Tongue.
Lark Pudding. Side Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare. Grouse.
Plum-pudding. Mince Pies.
Charlotte à la Parisienne.
Cheesecakes.
Apple Tart.
Nesselrode Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Rabbit. Grouse.
Plum Pudding. Mince Pies.
Charlotte Parisienne.
Cheesecakes.
Apple Tart.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2117.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (December).
2117.—DINNER FOR 8 PEOPLE (December).
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Baked Soles.
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup.
Crimped Cod with Oyster Sauce.
Baked Sole.
ENTREES.
Mutton Kidneys à la Française.
Oyster Patties.
ENTREES.
French Mutton Kidneys.
Oyster Puffs.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Beef and Vegetables.
Marrow-bones.
Roast Fowls and Water-cresses
Tongue, garnished.
Game Pie.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Beef and Vegetables.
Marrow Bones.
Roast Chicken and Watercress.
Garnished Tongue.
Game Pie.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Blancmange.
Compôte of Apples.
Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
Almond Cheesecakes.
Lemon Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Blancmange.
Apple Compote.
Puff Pastry with Pears.
Almond Cheesecakes.
Lemon Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2118.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).—I.
2118.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (December).—I.
FIRST COURSE.
Rabbit Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Rabbit Soup.
Brill with Shrimp Sauce.
ENTREES.
Curried Fowl. Oyster Patties.
ENTREES.
Curried Chicken. Oyster Pies.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Leg of Pork. Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Pork Leg. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Hunters' Pudding.
Lemon Cheesecakes.
Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses.
Raspberry Cream.
THIRD COURSE.
Hunters' Pudding.
Lemon Cheesecakes.
Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses.
Raspberry Cream.
DESSERT.
2119.—DINNER FOR, 6 PERSONS (December).—II.
2119.—DINNER FOR 6 (December).—II.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
FIRST COURSE.
Oxtail Soup.
Crimped Cod with Oyster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Savoury Rissoles.
Fowl Scollops à la Béchamel.
ENTREES.
Savory Rissoles.
Chicken Scallops in Béchamel Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.
Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Leg of Lamb.
Boiled Chickens with Celery Sauce.
Bacon, served with Brussels Sprouts.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Snipes.
Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes.
Apples à la Portugaise.
Apricot-jam Tartlets.
Soufflé of Rice.
THIRD COURSE.
Snipes.
Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes.
Apples à la Portugaise.
Apricot-jam Tartlets.
Soufflé of Rice.
DESSERT.
2120.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).—III.
Dinner for 6 (December).
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Soles à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Fried Eels.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Soles à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Fried Eels.
ENTREES.
Pork Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
Ragoût of Mutton à la Jardinière.
ENTREES.
Pork Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
Mutton Stew with Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Goose.
Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Goose.
Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Pheasants.
Whipped Cream.
Meringues. Compôte of Normandy Pippins.
Mince Pies. Plum-pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Pheasants.
Whipped Cream.
Meringues. Compote of Normandy Apples.
Mince Pies. Plum Pudding.
Dessert.
Dessert.
2121.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).—IV.
2121.—DINNER FOR 6 PEOPLE (December).—IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup.
Baked Cod.
Fried Smelts.
Appetizer.
Carrot Soup.
Baked Cod.
Fried Smelts.
ENTREES.
Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière.
Fricasseed Chicken.
ENTREES.
Braised Rump Steak with Vegetables.
Fricasséed Chicken.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Mutton, boned and stuffed.
Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce.
Vegetables.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Mutton, deboned and stuffed.
Boiled Turkey with Oyster Sauce.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Fancy Pastry.
Lemon Cream.
Damson Tart, with bottled fruit.
Custards, in glasses.
Cabinet Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Fancy Pastry.
Lemon Cream.
Damson Tart, with jarred fruit.
Custards, in glasses.
Cabinet Pudding.
Dessert.
Dessert.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR DECEMBER.
2122. Sunday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, vegetables. 3. Plum-pudding, mince pies.
2122. Sunday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, vegetables. 3. Plum pudding, mince pies.
2123. Monday.—1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed; apple tart.
2123. Monday.—1. Fried whiting fish, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Slices of warmed plum pudding; apple tart.
2124. Tuesday.—1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets and tomata sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.
2124. Tuesday.—1. Shredded beef and grilled bones, pork chops and tomato sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.
2125. Wednesday.—1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables; the broth served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it 2. Bakewell pudding.
2125. Wednesday.—1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables; the broth served first with a little pearl barley or rice cooked in it 2. Bakewell pudding.
2126. Thursday.—1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 2. Rice snowballs.
2126. Thursday.—1. Roast pork leg, apple sauce, vegetables. 2. Rice balls.
2127. Friday.—1. Soles à la Crime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes, broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
2127. Friday.—1. Sole à la Crime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes, grilled rump steaks with oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
2128. Saturday.—1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice, mutton cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.
2128. Saturday.—1. Leftover cold pork curry, rice, mutton cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.
* * * * *
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2129. Sunday.—1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, pease pudding, vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies.
2129. Sunday.—1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled pork leg, pea pudding, vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies.
2130. Monday.—1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2. Mince-meat pudding.
2130. Monday.—1. Hash turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2. Mince meat pie.
2131. Tuesday.—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding.
2131. Tuesday.—1. Pea soup made from the broth in which pork was boiled. 2. Boiled chickens with celery sauce and vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding.
2132. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding.
2132. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of lamb, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding.
2133. Thursday.—1. Baked cod's head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare, gravy and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni.
2133. Thursday.—1. Baked cod head. 2. Cold mutton, roasted hare, gravy, and red currant jelly. 3. Macaroni.
2134. Friday.—1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roast hare. 2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open tarts, rice blancmange.
2134. Friday.—1. Hare soup, made with broth and leftover roast hare. 2. Chopped mutton, pork chops, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open tarts, rice pudding.
2135. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Mince pies, baked apple dumplings.
2135. Saturday.—1. Rump steak and kidney pudding, veggies. 2. Mince pies, baked apple dumplings.
2136.—BILL OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER FOR 30 PERSONS (November).
2136.—MENU FOR A GAME DINNER FOR 30 PEOPLE (November).
First course.
Appetizer.
Hare Soup.
Hare Soup.
Purée of Grouse. Vase of Pheasant Soup.
Flowers.
Purée of Grouse. Vase of Pheasant Soup.
Flowers.
Soup á la Reine.
Queen's Soup.
Entrées.
Main dishes.
Salmi of Fillets of Hare Salmi of
Widgeon. en Chevereuil. Woodcock.
Salmi of Fillets of Hare Salmi of
Widgeon. en Chevereuil. Woodcock.
Perdrixaux Choux.
Perdrix aux Choux.
Lark Pudding. Vase of Game Patties.
Flowers.
Lark Pudding. Vase of Game Patties.
Flowers.
Curried Rabbit.
Curried Rabbit.
Salmi of Fillet of Pheasant Salmi of
Woodcock. and Truffles. Widgeon.
Salmi of Pheasant Fillet Salmi of
Woodcock. and Truffles. Widgeon.
Second Course.
Second Course.
Larded Pheasants.
Leveret, larded and
stuffed.
Larded Pheasants.
Larded and
stuffed leveret.
Cold Pheasant Pie Vase of Hot raised Pie of
á la Périgord. Flowers. mixed Game.
Cold Pheasant Pie Vase of Hot raised Pie of
à la Périgord. Flowers. mixed Game.
Grouse.
Grouse.
Larded Partridges.
Larded Partridges.
Third Course.
Main Course.
Snipes. Pintails. Ortolans.
Snipes. Pintails. Ortolans.
Quails.
Quail.
Golden Vase of Widgeon.
Plovers. Flowers.
Golden Vase of Widgeon.
Plovers. Flowers.
Teal.
Teal color.
Wild Duck. Woodcock. Snipes.
Wild Duck. Woodcock. Snipes.
Entremets and Removes.
Desserts and Removals.
Apricot Boudin à la Nesselrode. Maids of
Tart. Honour.
Apricot Nesselrode Pudding. Maids of
Tart. Honour.
Dantzic Jelly.
Danzig Jelly.
Vol-au-Vent Vase of Gâteau. of Pears. Flowers. Génoise glacé.
Vol-au-Vent Vase of Gâteau. of Pears. Flowers. Frozen Génoise.
Charlotte Russe.
Charlotte Russe.
Maids of Plum Pudding. Compôte of
Honour. Apples.
Maids of Plum Pudding. Compôte of
Honour. Apples.
Dessert.
Dessert.
Olives. Strawberry-Ice Figs.
Cream.
Olives. Strawberry Ice. Figs. Cream.
Preserved Pineapples. Dried
Cherries. Fruit.
Grapes.
Preserved Pineapples. Dried Cherries. Fruit. Grapes.
Filberts. Pears. Walnuts.
Wafers. Biscuits.
Filberts. Pears. Walnuts.
Wafers. Biscuits.
Ginger-Ice Cream. Vase of Orange-Water Ice.
Flowers.
Ginger Ice Cream. Vase of Orange Water Ice.
Flowers.
Apples.
Apples.
Dried Grapes. Preserved
Fruit. Cherries.
Pears.
Dried Grapes. Preserved Fruit. Cherries. Pears.
Figs. Lemon-Water Ice. Olives.
Figs. Lemonade Ice. Olives.
MENU.
2137.—SERVICE A LA RUSSE (July).
2137.—Russian Style Service (July).
Julienne Soup.
Vermicelli Soup.
Julienne Soup.
Vermicelli Noodle Soup.
Boiled Salmon.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Steamed Salmon.
Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
Soles-Water Souchy.
Perch-Water Souchy.
Soles-Water Souchy.
Perch-Water Souchy.
Matelote d'Anguilles à la Toulouse.
Filets de Soles à la Normandie.
Matelote d'Anguilles à la Toulouse.
Sole Fillets à la Normandie.
Red Mullet.
Trout.
Red Mullet.
Trout.
Lobster Rissoles.
Whitebait.
Lobster Fritters.
Whitebait.
Riz de Veau à la Banquière.
Filets de Poulets aux Coucombres.
Riz de Veau à la Banquière.
Chicken Fillets with Cucumbers.
Canards à la Rouennaise.
Mutton Cutlets à la Jardinière.
Canards à la Rouennaise.
Mutton Cutlets à la Jardinière.
Braised Beef à la Flamande.
Spring Chickens.
Braised Beef in the Flemish Style.
Young Chickens.
Roast Quarter of Lamb.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Roast Quarter of Lamb.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Tongue.
Ham and Peas.
Tongue.
Ham and Peas.
Quails, larded.
Roast Ducks.
Turkey Poult, larded.
Larded quails.
Roast ducks.
Larded turkey poult.
Mayonnaise of Chicken.
Tomatas.
Green Peas à la Française.
Mayo Chicken.
Tomatoes.
French Green Peas.
Suédoise of Strawberries.
Charlotte Russe.
Compôte of Cherries.
Strawberry Suédoise.
Charlotte Russe.
Cherry Compote.
Neapolitan Cakes.
Pastry.
Madeira Wine Jelly.
Neapolitan Cakes.
Pastry.
Madeira Wine Gelée.
Iced Pudding à la Nesselrode.
Nesselrode Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
Note.—Dinners à la Russe differ from ordinary dinners in the mode of serving the various dishes. In a dinner à la Russe, the dishes are cut up on a sideboard, and handed round to the guests, and each dish may be considered a course. The table for a dinner à la Russe should be laid with flowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle, together with some of the dessert dishes. A menu or bill of fare should be laid by the side of each guest.
Note.—Dinners à la Russe are different from regular dinners in how the dishes are served. In a dinner à la Russe, the dishes are prepared on a side table and passed around to the guests, with each dish regarded as a course. The table for a dinner à la Russe should be decorated with flowers and plants in decorative pots down the center, along with some of the dessert dishes. A menu or list of dishes should be placed next to each guest.
MENU.
2138.—SERVICE A LA RUSSE (November).
2138.—Russian Service (November).
Ox-tail Soup.
Soup à la Jardinière.
Oxtail Soup.
Garden Vegetable Soup.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Stewed Eels.
Soles à la Normandie.
Stewed Eels.
Normandy-style Sole.
Pike and Cream Sauce.
Fried Filleted Soles.
Pike and Cream Sauce.
Fried Filleted Soles.
Filets de Boeuf à la Jardinière.
Croquettes of Game aux Champignons.
Filets of Beef with Garden Vegetables.
Game Croquettes with Mushrooms.
Chicken Cutlets.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.
Chicken Cutlets.
Lamb Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
Lobster Rissoles.
Oyster Patties.
Lobster Rissoles.
Oyster Patties.
Partridges aux fines herbes.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Herb-Crusted Partridges.
Bacon-Wrapped Sweetbreads.
Roast Beef.
Poulets aux Cressons.
Roast Beef.
Chicken with Watercress.
Haunch of Mutton.
Roast Turkey.
Mutton Haunch.
Roast Turkey.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Ham.
Boiled Turkey with Celery Sauce.
Ham.
Grouse.
Pheasants.
Hare.
Grouse.
Pheasants.
Hare.
Salad.
Artichokes.
Stewed Celery.
Salad.
Artichokes.
Cooked Celery.
Italian Cream.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Compôte of Pears.
Italian Cream.
Apple Charlotte.
Pear Compote.
Croûtes madrées aux Fruits.
Pastry.
Punch Jelly.
Fruit Tartlets.
Pastry.
Punch Jelly.
Iced Pudding.
Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
Note.—Dinners à la Russe are scarcely suitable for small establishments; a large number of servants being required to carve; and to help the guests; besides there being a necessity for more plates, dishes, knives, forks, and spoons, than are usually to be found in any other than a very large establishment. Where, however, a service à la Russe is practicable, there it, perhaps, no mode of serving a dinner so enjoyable as this.
Note.—Russian-style dinners aren't really suitable for small venues; you need a lot of staff to carve and assist the guests, plus you'll require more plates, dishes, knives, forks, and spoons than are typically found in anything other than a very large establishment. However, when Russian service is possible, it's perhaps the most enjoyable way to serve dinner.
SUPPERS.
2139. Much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table, at a very small expense, provided taste and ingenuity are exercised. The colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely; there should be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table, and the room should be well lighted. We have endeavoured to show how the various dishes may be placed; but of course these little matters entirely depend on the length and width of the table used, on individual taste, whether the tables are arranged round the room, whether down the centre, with a cross one at the top, or whether the supper is laid in two separate rooms, &c. &c. The garnishing of the dishes has also much to do with the appearance of a supper-table. Hams and tongues should be ornamented with cut vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut in dice, and all the dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking absurd. The eye, in fact, should be as much gratified as the palate. Hot soup is now often served at suppers, but is not placed on the table. The servants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, and then hand them to the guests: when these plates are removed, the business of supper commences.
2139. You can do a lot to set up a supper table without spending much, as long as you use your taste and creativity. The colors and flavors of the different dishes should contrast nicely; there should be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table, and the room should be well-lit. We've tried to show how to arrange the various dishes, but these details depend on the size of the table, personal preference, whether the tables are arranged around the room, down the center with a cross table at the top, or if the supper is set up in two separate rooms, etc. The way you garnish the dishes also greatly affects the look of the supper table. Hams and tongues should be decorated with carved vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut into cubes, and all dishes should be garnished enough to look good without being over the top. The presentation should please the eye as much as the food pleases the palate. Hot soup is often served at suppers now, but it’s not placed on the table. Servers fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet and then hand them to the guests. Once these plates are taken away, the supper begins.
2140. Where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standing supper, many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may be placed on the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be selected which may be eaten standing without any trouble. The following list may, perhaps, assist our readers in the arrangement of a buffet for a standing supper.
2140. In situations where small rooms and large parties require a standing supper, many items from the following menu can be set up on the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be chosen so they can be eaten easily while standing. The following list may help our readers plan a buffet for a standing supper.
2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties, sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, the latter all cut up; dishes of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and galantine of veal; various jellies, blancmanges, and creams; custards in glasses, compôtes of fruit, tartlets of jam, and several dishes of small fancy pastry; dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons, sweetmeats, two or three sponge cakes, a few plates of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented with vases of fresh or artificial flowers. The above dishes are quite sufficient for a standing supper; where more are desired, a supper must then be laid and arranged in the usual manner.
2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties, sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, platters of chicken, all cut up; plates of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and veal galantine; various jellies, blancmanges, and creams; custards in glasses, fruit compotes, jam tartlets, and several kinds of small fancy pastries; dishes of fresh fruit, candies, sweet treats, a couple of sponge cakes, a few plates of cookies, and the buffet decorated with vases of fresh or artificial flowers. The dishes listed are enough for a standing supper; if more are needed, a full supper should then be set up and arranged in the usual way.
2142.—BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER FOR 60 PERSONS (For Winter)
2142.—MENU FOR A WINTER BALL SUPPER FOR 60 PEOPLE
Boar's Head,
garnished with Aspic Jelly.
Lobster Salad Lobster Salad.
Fruited Jelly. Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe.
Boar's Head,
garnished with Aspic Jelly.
Lobster Salad Lobster Salad.
Fruited Jelly. Mayonnaise of Chicken. Charlotte Russe.
Small Ham, garnished.
Small ham, garnished.
Small Pastry. Iced Savoy Cake. Biscuits.
Small Pastry. Iced Savoy Cake. Biscuits.
Vanilla Cream EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Fruited Jelly.
Vanilla Cream EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Fruited Jelly.
Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up.
Two roast chickens, cut up. Two roast chickens, cut up.
Prawns Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Prawns
Sauce.
Biscuits Small Pastry
Tongue, ornamented.
Prawns Two Boiled Chickens, with Béchamel Prawns
Sauce.
Biscuits Small Pastry
Tongue, decorated.
Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED. Custards,
in glasses. in glasses.
Raised Chicken Pie.
Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED. Custards,
in glasses. in glasses.
Raised Chicken Pie.
Tipsy Cake
Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad.
Fruited Jelly. Swiss Cream.
Roast Pheasant.
Tipsy Cake
Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad.
Fruited Jelly. Swiss Cream.
Roast Pheasant.
Meringues. EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Meringues.
Meringues. Fruit Epergne. Meringues.
Raspberry Cream. Galantine of Veal. Fruited Jelly.
Raspberry Cream. Veal Galantine. Fruit Jelly.
Tipsy Cake.
Small Pastry. Biscuits.
Raised Game Pie.
Tipsy Cake.
Small Pastry. Biscuits.
Raised Game Pie.
Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED Custards,
in glasses. in glasses.
Custards, TRIFLE, DECORATED Custards,
in glasses. in glasses.
Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up.
Tongue, ornamented.
Prawns. Prawns.
Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel
Sauce.
Biscuits. Small Pastry.
EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT.
Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad.
Fruited Jelly. Iced Savoy Cake. Blancmange.
Two Roast Chickens, cut up. Two Roast Chickens, cut up.
Tongue, decorated.
Prawns. Prawns.
Two Boiled Chickens, with Béchamel
Sauce.
Cookies. Small Pastry.
Epergne, with Fruit.
Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad.
Fruit Jelly. Iced Savoy Cake. Blancmange.
Small Ham, garnished.
Small Ham, garnished.
Mayonnaise of Fowl.
Charlotte Russe. Fruited Jelly.
Larded Capon.
Mayonnaise of Chicken.
Charlotte Russe. Fruit Jelly.
Larded Chicken.
Note: When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Julienne may be selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers, Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, Wines and Liqueurs will be required. Punch a la Romaine may also be added to the list of beverages.
Note: When soup is served from the buffet, you can choose Mock Turtle and Julienne. In addition to the items listed above, you'll need Ices, Wafers, Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, Wines, and Liqueurs. Punch a la Romaine can also be included in the drink options.
2143.—BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER,
Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding or
Christening Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July).
Or a Cold Buffet for a Summer Party, Wedding, or Christening Breakfast for 70 or 80 People (July).
[Illustration: Containing the following—]
[Illustration: Including the following—]
[Columns 1 and 5] 4 Blancmanges, to be placed down the table. 4 Jellies, to be placed down the table. 3 Dishes of Small Pastry. 3 Fruit Tarts. 3 Cheesecakes. 3 Compotes of Fruit. 3 English Pines. 20 Small Dishes of various Summer Fruits.
[Columns 1 and 5] 4 Blancmanges, to be set on the table. 4 Jellies, to be set on the table. 3 Dishes of Small Pastry. 3 Fruit Tarts. 3 Cheesecakes. 3 Fruit Compotes. 3 English Pines. 20 Small Dishes of assorted Summer Fruits.
[Column 2]
Dish of Lobster, cut up.
Charlotte Russe à la Vanille.
Lobster Salad
Pigeon Pie.
Lobster Salad.
Dish of Lobster, cut up.
Larded Capon.
Lobster Salad.
Pigeon Pie.
Dish of Lobster, cut up.
Savoy Cake.
Lobster Salad.
[Column 2]
Chopped Lobster Dish.
Vanilla Charlotte Russe.
Lobster Salad.
Pigeon Pie.
Lobster Salad.
Chopped Lobster Dish.
Larded Capon.
Lobster Salad.
Pigeon Pie.
Chopped Lobster Dish.
Savoy Cake.
Lobster Salad.
[Column 3]
Tongue.
Ribs of Lamb.
Two Roast Fowls.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.
Epergne, with Flowers.
Mayonnaise of Trout.
Tongue, garnished.
Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce.
Collared Eel.
Ham.
Raised Pie.
Two Roast Fowls.
Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.
Epergne, with Flowers.
Mayonnaise of Trout.
Tongue.
Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce.
Raised Pie.
Ham, decorated.
Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed.
Two Roast Fowls.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.
Epergne, with Flowers.
Mayonnaise of Trout.
Tongue, garnished.
Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce.
Collared Eel.
[Column 3]
Tongue.
Lamb Ribs.
Two Roast Chickens.
Salmon Mayonnaise.
Centerpiece with Flowers.
Trout Mayonnaise.
Garnished Tongue.
Boiled Chickens and Béchamel Sauce.
Stuffed Eel.
Ham.
Savory Pie.
Two Roast Chickens.
Stuffed Lamb Shoulder.
Salmon Mayonnaise.
Centerpiece with Flowers.
Trout Mayonnaise.
Tongue.
Boiled Chickens and Béchamel Sauce.
Savory Pie.
Decorated Ham.
Stuffed Lamb Shoulder.
Two Roast Chickens.
Salmon Mayonnaise.
Centerpiece with Flowers.
Trout Mayonnaise.
Garnished Tongue.
Boiled Chickens and Béchamel Sauce.
Stuffed Eel.
[Column 4]
Veal-and-Ham Pie.
Lobster Salad.
Savoy Cake.
Dish of Lobster, cut up.
Lobster Salad.
Boar's Head.
Pigeon Pie.
Lobster Salad.
Dish of Lobster, cut up.
Lobster Salad.
Charlotte Russe à la Vanille.
Veal and Ham Pie.
Dish of Lobster, cut up.
[Column 4]
Veal and Ham Pie.
Lobster Salad.
Savory Cake.
Dish of Lobster, chopped.
Lobster Salad.
Boar's Head.
Pigeon Pie.
Lobster Salad.
Dish of Lobster, chopped.
Lobster Salad.
Vanilla Charlotte Russe.
Veal and Ham Pie.
Dish of Lobster, chopped.
Note.—The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes as they should be placed on the table; they should be arranged with the large and high dishes down the centre, and the spaces filled up with the smaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking care that the flavours and colours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort come together. This bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes, placing a wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand, if required for either of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobster salads, &c. &c., should be kept in reserve to replenish those that are most likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef should be placed on the buffet, as being something substantial for the gentlemen of the party to partake of. Besides the articles enumerated in the bill of fare, biscuits and wafers will be required, cream-and-water ices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda-water, ginger-beer, and lemonade.
Note.—The length of the page doesn't allow us to show how the dishes should be arranged on the table; they should be set up with the large and tall dishes in the center, and the smaller dishes, fruits, and flowers filling in the spaces, ensuring that the flavors and colors contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of the same kind are next to each other. This menu can fulfill three or four purposes, placing a wedding cake or christening cake in the center on a high stand, if needed for either occasion. A few dishes of chicken, lobster salads, etc., should be kept in reserve to refill those that are likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef should be placed on the buffet, as something substantial for the gentlemen of the party to enjoy. In addition to the items listed in the menu, biscuits and wafers will be needed, along with cream-and-water ices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda water, ginger beer, and lemonade.
BREAKFASTS.
2144. It will not be necessary to give here a long bill of fare of cold joints, &c., which may be placed on the side-board, and do duty at the breakfast-table. Suffice it to say, that any cold meat the larder may furnish, should be nicely garnished, and be placed on the buffet. Collared and potted meats or fish, cold game or poultry, veal-and-ham pies, game-and-Rump-steak pies, are all suitable dishes for the breakfast-table; as also cold ham, tongue, &c. &c.
2144. There's no need to list a lengthy selection of cold meats, etc., that can be served on the sideboard and used at the breakfast table. It’s enough to say that any cold meat available should be nicely garnished and placed on the buffet. Collared and potted meats or fish, cold game or poultry, veal and ham pies, game and rump steak pies are all suitable dishes for the breakfast table, as well as cold ham, tongue, etc. etc.
2145. The following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers in knowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast. Broiled fish, such as mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, &c.; mutton chops and rump-steaks, broiled sheep's kidneys, kidneys à la maître d'hôtel, sausages, plain rashers of bacon, bacon and poached eggs, ham and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, oeufs-au-plat, poached eggs on toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, &c. &c.
2145. The following list of hot dishes might help our readers decide what to serve for a comfortable breakfast. Broiled fish like mackerel, whiting, herring, dried haddock, etc.; mutton chops and rump steaks, broiled sheep kidneys, kidneys à la maître d'hôtel, sausages, plain bacon rashers, bacon and poached eggs, ham and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, fried eggs, poached eggs on toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, etc. etc.
2146. In the summer, and when they are obtainable, always have a vase of freshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table, and, when convenient, a nicely-arranged dish of fruit: when strawberries are in season, these are particularly refreshing; as also grapes, or even currants.
2146. In the summer, and when they're available, always have a vase of fresh flowers on the breakfast table, and, when possible, a nicely arranged bowl of fruit: when strawberries are in season, they're especially refreshing; so are grapes or even currants.
LUNCHEONS AND SUPPERS.
2147. The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, a few sweets, or a little hashed meat, poultry or game, are the usual articles placed on the table for luncheon, with bread and cheese, biscuits, butter, &c. If a substantial meal is desired, rump-steaks or mutton chops may he served, as also veal cutlets, kidneys, or any dish of that kind. In families where there is a nursery, the mistress of the house often partakes of the meal with the children, and makes it her luncheon. In the summer, a few dishes of fresh fruit should be added to the luncheon, or, instead of this, a compote of fruit or fruit tart, or pudding.
2147. The leftovers from previous meals, nicely arranged, along with some sweets or a bit of hashed meat, poultry, or game, are the typical items served for lunch, accompanied by bread, cheese, biscuits, butter, etc. If a more filling meal is desired, rump steaks or mutton chops can be served, along with veal cutlets, kidneys, or similar dishes. In families with young children, the lady of the house often shares the meal with the kids and makes it her lunch. During the summer, a few plates of fresh fruit should be included in the lunch, or alternatively, a fruit compote, fruit tart, or pudding.
2148. Of suppers we have little to say, as we have already given two bills of fare for a large party, which will answer very well for a smaller number, by reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting a few. Hot suppers are now very little in request, as people now generally dine at an hour which precludes the possibility of requiring supper; at all events, not one of a substantial kind. Should, however, a bill of fare be required, one of those under the head of DINNERS, with slight alterations, will be found to answer for a hot supper.
2148. We don’t have much to say about dinners, since we’ve already provided two menus for a large gathering, which can easily be adjusted for a smaller group by reducing the number of dishes and leaving out a few. Hot dinners aren't in high demand anymore because people usually eat dinner at a time that makes having a supper unnecessary; at least not one that’s substantial. However, if you do need a menu, one of those listed under DINNERS, with some minor tweaks, will work well for a hot supper.
BILL OF FARE FOR A PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS.
2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of lamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1 tongue, 2 veal-and-ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1 piece of collared calf's head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 cucumbers.
2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of lamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast chickens, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1 tongue, 2 veal-and-ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1 piece of collared calf's head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 cucumbers.
2150. Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put into glass bottles well corked; 3 or 4 dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stewed fruit, 2 dozen fruit turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings in moulds, 2 blancmanges in moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold plum-pudding (this must be good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen plain biscuits, a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. of butter (this, of course, includes the butter for tea), 4 quartern loaves of household broad, 3 dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2 pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, 1/2 lb, of tea. Coffee is not suitable for a picnic, being difficult to make.
2150. Stewed fruit that’s nicely sweetened and stored in well-corked glass bottles; 3 or 4 dozen plain biscuits to enjoy with the stewed fruit, 2 dozen fruit turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings in molds, 2 blancmanges in molds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold plum pudding (this should be good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen plain biscuits, a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. of butter (this includes the butter for tea), 4 quarter loaves of household bread, 3 dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2 pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, 1/2 lb. of tea. Coffee isn’t suitable for a picnic, as it’s tricky to make.
Things not to be forgotten at a Picnic.
Things not to forget at a picnic.
2151. A stick of horseradish, a bottle of mint-sauce well corked, a bottle of salad dressing, a bottle of vinegar, made mustard, pepper, salt, good oil, and pounded sugar. If it can be managed, take a little ice. It is scarcely necessary to say that plates, tumblers, wine-glasses, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten; as also teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump sugar, and milk, if this last-named article cannot be obtained in the neighbourhood. Take 3 corkscrews.
2151. A stick of horseradish, a well-corked bottle of mint sauce, a bottle of salad dressing, a bottle of vinegar, prepared mustard, pepper, salt, good oil, and powdered sugar. If possible, grab a little ice. It’s hardly necessary to mention that you shouldn’t forget plates, glasses, wine glasses, knives, forks, and spoons; also include teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump sugar, and milk if you can’t get it nearby. Bring 3 corkscrews.
2152. Beverages.—3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers; ginger-beer, soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 dozen bottles; 6 bottles of sherry, 6 bottles of claret, champagne à discrétion, and any other light wine that may be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Water can usually be obtained so it is useless to take it.
2152. Beverages.—3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers; ginger beer, soda water, and lemonade, 2 dozen bottles of each; 6 bottles of sherry, 6 bottles of claret, champagne as desired, and any other light wine that might be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Water can usually be obtained, so it’s unnecessary to bring it.
DOMESTIC SERVANTS.
CHAPTER XLI.
2153. It is the custom of "Society" to abuse its servants,—a façon de parler, such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather, and, when rurally inclined, of the crops,—leads matronly ladies, and ladies just entering on their probation in that honoured and honourable state, to talk of servants, and, as we are told, wax eloquent over the greatest plague in life while taking a quiet cup of tea. Young men at their clubs, also, we are told, like to abuse their "fellows," perhaps not without a certain pride and pleasure at the opportunity of intimating that they enjoy such appendages to their state. It is another conviction of "Society" that the race of good servants has died out, at least in England, although they do order these things better in France; that there is neither honesty, conscientiousness, nor the careful and industrious habits which distinguished the servants of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers; that domestics no longer know their place; that the introduction of cheap silks and cottons, and, still more recently, those ambiguous "materials" and tweeds, have removed the landmarks between the mistress and her maid, between the master and his man.
2153. It's typical for "Society" to complain about its servants—a façon de parler, which leads lords and ladies to chat about the weather, and, when in a rural mood, the crops. This also encourages matronly women and those just starting on their journey in that respected role to discuss servants and, as we hear, become quite passionate about the biggest annoyance in life while enjoying a quiet cup of tea. Young men at their clubs, we are told, also like to criticize their "fellows," perhaps with a certain pride and enjoyment in implying that they appreciate such additions to their social status. "Society" also believes that the era of good servants has come to an end, at least in England, though the French seem to manage it better; they claim there's a lack of honesty, dedication, and the careful work ethic that once characterized the servants of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers; that domestics no longer understand their place; and that the rise of affordable silks and cottons, and even more recently, those vague "materials" and tweeds, has erased the clear distinctions between mistress and maid, master and man.
2154. When the distinction really depends on things so insignificant, this is very probably the case; when the lady of fashion chooses her footman without any other consideration than his height, shape, and tournure of his calf, it is not surprising that she should find a domestic who has no attachment for the family, who considers the figure he cuts behind her carriage, and the late hours he is compelled to keep, a full compensation for the wages he exacts, for the food he wastes, and for the perquisites he can lay his hands on. Nor should the fast young man, who chooses his groom for his knowingness in the ways of the turf and in the tricks of low horse-dealers, be surprised if he is sometimes the victim of these learned ways. But these are the exceptional cases, which prove the existence of a better state of things. The great masses of society among us are not thus deserted; there are few families of respectability, from the shopkeeper in the next street to the nobleman whose mansion dignifies the next square, which do not contain among their dependents attached and useful servants; and where these are absent altogether, there are good reasons for it. The sensible master and the kind mistress know, that if servants depend on them for their means of living, in their turn they are dependent on their servants for very many of the comforts of life; and that, with a proper amount of care in choosing servants, and treating them like reasonable beings, and making slight excuses for the shortcomings of human nature, they will, save in some exceptional case, be tolerably well served, and, in most instances, surround themselves with attached domestics.
2154. When the difference really comes down to such trivial things, this is usually the situation; when a fashionable woman picks her footman based solely on his height, build, and the way his calves look, it's not surprising that she ends up with a servant who has no loyalty to the family, who cares more about how he looks behind her carriage and the late hours he has to work, seeing it as a fair trade-off for the salary he demands, the food he wastes, and the perks he can grab. Similarly, the reckless young man who chooses his groom based on his knowledge of horse racing and the tricks of shady horse traders shouldn't be shocked if he occasionally becomes a victim of those crafty ways. But these are the rare cases that highlight a better reality. The majority of people in our society aren't left in this situation; there are few respectable families, from the shopkeeper down the street to the nobleman whose grand house stands in the next square, that don’t have caring and useful servants among their staff. And where there are none, there are usually good reasons for it. The sensible employer and the kind mistress understand that while servants rely on them for their livelihood, they, in turn, depend on their servants for many comforts in life; and with a little care in selecting servants, treating them as reasonable people, and being understanding of human flaws, they will, barring a few exceptions, be reasonably well served and, in most cases, create a home with devoted staff.
2155. This remark, which is applicable to all domestics, is especially so to men-servants. Families accustomed to such attendants have always about them humble dependents, whose children have no other prospect than domestic service to look forward to; to them it presents no degradation, but the reverse, to be so employed; they are initiated step by step into the mysteries of the household, with the prospect of rising in the service, if it is a house admitting of promotion,—to the respectable position of butler or house-steward. In families of humbler pretensions, where they must look for promotion elsewhere, they know that can only be attained by acquiring the goodwill of their employers. Can there be any stronger security for their good conduct,—any doubt that, in the mass of domestic servants, good conduct is the rule, the reverse the exception?
2155. This statement, which applies to all domestic workers, is especially true for male servants. Families that are used to having such help always have humble dependents around, whose children can only hope for a future in domestic service; for them, this job is not seen as degrading but rather the opposite. They are gradually introduced to the inner workings of the household, with the possibility of advancing in their roles if they are in a household that allows for promotion—to respectable positions like butler or house steward. In families of more modest means, where they have to seek advancement elsewhere, they understand that this can only be achieved by earning the goodwill of their employers. Is there a stronger guarantee of their good behavior—or any doubt that, among domestic workers, good conduct is the norm while misconduct is the exception?
2156. The number of the male domestics in a family varies according to the wealth and position of the master, from the owner of the ducal mansion, with a retinue of attendants, at the head of which is the chamberlain and house-steward, to the occupier of the humbler house, where a single footman, or even the odd man-of-all-work, is the only male retainer. The majority of gentlemen's establishments probably comprise a servant out of livery, or butler, a footman, and coachman, or coachman and groom, where the horses exceed two or three.
2156. The number of male staff in a household varies based on the wealth and status of the owner, ranging from the owner of a grand ducal mansion, who has a full team of staff led by a chamberlain and house steward, to the occupant of a modest home, where just one footman or even a general handyman might be the only male servant. Most affluent households likely include a non-uniformed servant or butler, a footman, and either a coachman or a coachman and a groom if they have more than two or three horses.
DUTIES OF THE BUTLER.
2157. The domestic duties of the butler are to bring in the eatables at breakfast, and wait upon the family at that meal, assisted by the footman, and see to the cleanliness of everything at table. On taking away, he removes the tray with the china and plate, for which he is responsible. At luncheon, he arranges the meal, and waits unassisted, the footman being now engaged in other duties. At dinner, he places the silver and plated articles on the table, sees that everything is in its place, and rectifies what is wrong. He carries in the first dish, and announces in the drawing-room that dinner is on the table, and respectfully stands by the door until the company are seated, when he takes his place behind his master's chair on the left, to remove the covers, handing them to the other attendants to carry out. After the first course of plates is supplied, his place is at the sideboard to serve the wines, but only when called on.
2157. The butler's household duties include bringing in the food for breakfast and serving the family during that meal, with help from the footman, while also ensuring everything on the table is clean. When clearing away, he takes the tray with the china and plates, for which he is responsible. At lunch, he sets up the meal and serves without assistance, as the footman is occupied with other tasks. For dinner, he arranges the silverware and plated items on the table, checks that everything is in order, and fixes any issues. He brings in the first dish and announces to the guests in the drawing room that dinner is served, then respectfully stands by the door until everyone is seated. Once seated, he takes his place behind his master's chair on the left to remove the covers, handing them off to the other staff for removal. After the first course is served, he moves to the sideboard to pour the wines, but only when asked.
2158. The first course ended, he rings the cook's bell, and hands the dishes from the table to the other servants to carry away, receiving from them the second course, which he places on the table, removing the covers as before, and again taking his place at the sideboard.
2158. The first course ended, he rings the cook's bell and hands the dishes from the table to the other servants to take away, receiving the second course from them, which he puts on the table, removing the covers as before, and once again taking his place at the sideboard.
2159. At dessert, the slips being removed, the butler receives the dessert from the other servants, and arranges it on the table, with plates and glasses, and then takes his place behind his master's chair to hand the wines and ices, while the footman stands behind his mistress for the same purpose, the other attendants leaving the room. Where the old-fashioned practice of having the dessert on the polished table, without any cloth, is still adhered to, the butler should rub off any marks made by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert.
2159. At dessert, once the slips are taken away, the butler takes the dessert from the other servants and sets it up on the table with plates and glasses. Then, he stands behind his master's chair to serve the wines and ice dishes, while the footman stands behind his mistress to do the same, with the other staff leaving the room. In cases where the traditional practice of serving dessert on a polished table without a tablecloth is still followed, the butler should wipe off any marks left by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert.
2160. Before dinner, he has satisfied himself that the lamps, candles, or gas-burners are in perfect order, if not lighted, which will usually be the case. Having served every one with their share of the dessert, put the fires in order (when these are used), and seen the lights are all right, at a signal from his master, he and the footman leave the room.
2160. Before dinner, he ensures that the lamps, candles, or gas burners are in perfect condition, even if they're not lit, which is usually the case. After serving everyone their dessert, adjusting the fires (when applicable), and checking that the lights are set correctly, he and the footman leave the room at a signal from his master.
2161. He now proceeds to the drawing-room, arranges the fireplace, and sees to the lights; he then returns to his pantry, prepared to answer the bell, and attend to the company, while the footman is clearing away and cleaning the plate and glasses.
2161. He now goes to the living room, sets up the fireplace, and adjusts the lights; then he heads back to his pantry, ready to answer the bell and assist the guests, while the footman clears and cleans the plates and glasses.
2162. At tea he again attends. At bedtime he appears with the candles; he locks up the plate, secures doors and windows, and sees that all the fires are safe.
2162. He joins everyone for tea again. At bedtime, he comes in with the candles; he locks up the silverware, secures the doors and windows, and checks that all the fires are safe.
2163. In addition to these duties, the butler, where only one footman is kept, will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet, to pay bills, and superintend the other servants. But the real duties of the butler are in the wine-cellar; there he should be competent to advise his master as to the price and quality of the wine to be laid in; "fine," bottle, cork, and seal it, and place it in the binns. Brewing, racking, and bottling malt liquors, belong to his office, as well as their distribution. These and other drinkables are brought from the cellar every day by his own hands, except where an under-butler is kept; and a careful entry of every bottle used, entered in the cellar-book; so that the book should always show the contents of the cellar.
2163. In addition to these responsibilities, the butler, when there's only one footman, will also have to take on some of the valet's duties, pay bills, and oversee the other staff. However, the main responsibilities of the butler involve managing the wine cellar; he should be knowledgeable enough to advise his employer on the price and quality of wine to stock. He should "fine," bottle, cork, and seal it, and store it properly. Brewing, racking, and bottling malt beverages fall under his role, along with their distribution. He personally brings up these drinks from the cellar every day, unless there’s an under-butler, and keeps a careful log of every bottle used in the cellar book, ensuring that the book accurately reflects the contents of the cellar.
2164. The office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a household. Here, as elsewhere, honesty is the best policy: the butler should make it his business to understand the proper treatment of the different wines under his charge, which he can easily do from the wine-merchant, and faithfully attend to it; his own reputation will soon compensate for the absence of bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants, if he serves a generous and hospitable master. Nothing spreads more rapidly in society than the reputation of a good wine-cellar, and all that is required is wines well chosen and well cared for; and this a little knowledge, carefully applied, will soon supply.
2164. The role of a butler is one of great trust in a household. Here, as in other situations, honesty is crucial: the butler should prioritize understanding the proper care of the various wines he oversees, which he can easily learn from the wine merchant, and faithfully manage it; his own reputation will soon make up for the lack of kickbacks from unscrupulous wine merchants, as long as he serves a generous and welcoming master. Nothing spreads faster in society than the reputation of a good wine cellar, and all it takes is well-chosen and well-maintained wines; with a little knowledge and careful application, this can be achieved quickly.
2165. The butler, we have said, has charge of the contents of the cellars, and it is his duty to keep them in a proper condition, to fine down wine in wood, bottle it off, and store it away in places suited to the sorts. Where wine comes into the cellar ready bottled, it is usual to return the same number of empty bottles; the butler has not, in this case, the same inducements to keep the bottles of the different sorts separated; but where the wine is bottled in the house, he will find his account, not only in keeping them separate, but in rinsing them well, and even washing them with clean water as soon as they are empty.
2165. The butler, as we've mentioned, is responsible for the contents of the cellars. It's his job to keep everything in order, to age wine in barrels, bottle it, and store it in appropriate places based on the type. When wine comes into the cellar already bottled, it's standard practice to return the same number of empty bottles. In this case, the butler doesn't have the same motivation to keep the different types of bottles separate. However, when the wine is bottled on-site, he benefits from not only keeping them separate but also rinsing them thoroughly and even washing them with clean water as soon as they're empty.
2166. There are various modes of fining wine: isinglass, gelatine, and gum Arabic are all used for the purpose. Whichever of these articles is used, the process is always the same. Supposing eggs (the cheapest) to be used,—Draw a gallon or so of the wine, and mix one quart of it with the whites of four eggs, by stirring it with a whisk; afterwards, when thoroughly mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole, and stir up the whole cask, in a rotatory direction, with a clean split stick inserted through the bunghole. Having stirred it sufficiently, pour in the remainder of the wine drawn off, until the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off the bubbles that rise to the surface. When thoroughly mixed by stirring, close the bunghole, and leave it to stand for three or four days. This quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or sherry. The other clearing ingredients are applied in the same manner, the material being cut into small pieces, and dissolved in the quart of wine, and the cask stirred in the same manner.
2166. There are different ways to fining wine: isinglass, gelatin, and gum Arabic are all used for this purpose. No matter which one you use, the process is always the same. If you choose to use eggs (the cheapest option), start by drawing off about a gallon of the wine and mix one quart of it with the whites of four eggs, stirring with a whisk. Once it's thoroughly mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole and stir the entire cask in a circular motion using a clean split stick inserted through the bunghole. After stirring enough, pour in the rest of the wine you drew off until the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off the bubbles that rise to the surface. Once everything is thoroughly mixed, close the bunghole and let it sit for three to four days. This amount of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen bottles of port or sherry. The other clearing agents are applied in the same way, cutting the material into small pieces, dissolving it in the quart of wine, and stirring the cask similarly.
2167. To Bottle Wine.—Having thoroughly washed and dried the bottles, supposing they have been before used for the same kind of wine, provide corks, which will be improved by being slightly boiled, or at least steeped in hot water,—a wooden hammer or mallet, a bottling-boot, and a squeezer for the corks. Bore a hole in the lower part of the cask with a gimlet, receiving the liquid stream which follows in the bottle and filterer, which is placed in a tub or basin. This operation is best performed by two persons, one to draw the wine, the other to cork the bottles. The drawer is to see that the bottles are up to the mark, but not too full, the bottle being placed in a clean tub to prevent waste. The corking-boot is buckled by a strap to the knee, the bottle placed in it, and the cork, after being squeezed in the press, driven in by a flat wooden mallet.
2167. To Bottle Wine.—After thoroughly washing and drying the bottles, assuming they have been previously used for the same type of wine, get some corks, which will work better if they are slightly boiled or at least soaked in hot water. You will also need a wooden hammer or mallet, a bottling boot, and a cork squeezer. Create a hole in the lower part of the cask using a gimlet, collecting the liquid stream that follows into the bottle and filter, which should be placed in a tub or basin. This process is best done by two people: one to draw the wine and the other to cork the bottles. The person drawing the wine should ensure that the bottles are filled to the right level, but not overflowing, with the bottle positioned in a clean tub to catch any spills. The corking boot is fastened around the knee with a strap, the bottle is placed inside it, and after being squeezed in the press, the cork is driven into the bottle using a flat wooden mallet.
2168. As the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask, a thick piece of muslin is placed in the strainer, to prevent the viscous grounds from passing into the bottle.
2168. As the wine gets close to the bottom of the cask, a thick piece of muslin is placed in the strainer to stop the thick sediment from getting into the bottle.
2169. Having carefully counted the bottles, they are stored away in their respective binns, a layer of sand or sawdust being placed under the first tier, and another over it; a second tier is laid over this, protected by a lath, the head of the second being laid to the bottom of the first; over this another bed of sawdust is laid, not too thick, another lath; and so on till the binn is filled.
2169. After counting the bottles carefully, they are stored in their designated bins, with a layer of sand or sawdust placed under the first tier and another over it; a second tier is added on top, protected by a lath, with the bottom of the second tier resting on the top of the first; another layer of sawdust is placed on top, not too thick, followed by another lath; and this process continues until the bin is full.
2170. Wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its quality and age. Port wine, old in the wood, will be ready to drink in five or six months; but if it is a fruity wine, it will improve every year. Sherry, if of good quality, will be fit to drink as soon as the "sickness" (as its first condition after bottling is called) ceases, and will also improve; but the cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither too hot nor too cold, but about 55° or 60°, and absolutely free from draughts of cold air.
2170. Wine that’s aged properly will be ready to enjoy based on its quality and age. Port wine, aged in barrels, will be ready to drink in five or six months; however, if it's a fruity wine, it will get better each year. Sherry, if it’s of good quality, will be drinkable as soon as the "sickness" (as the initial condition after bottling is called) disappears, and it will also improve; but the cellar needs to be maintained at a stable temperature, not too hot or too cold, ideally around 55° or 60°, and completely free from cold drafts.
DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN.
2171. Where a single footman, or odd man, is the only male servant, then, whatever his ostensible position, he is required to make himself generally useful. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture, the plate; answer the visitors who call, the drawing-room and parlour bells; and do all the errands. His life is no sinecure; and a methodical arrangement of his time will be necessary, in order to perform his many duties with any satisfaction to himself or his master.
2171. When there’s only one footman or male servant, no matter his official title, he needs to be useful in all areas. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture, and the silverware; respond to visitors who come by, along with the drawing-room and parlor bells; and run all the errands. His job isn't easy, and he'll need to organize his time carefully to handle his many responsibilities in a way that satisfies both himself and his employer.
2172. The footman only finds himself in stockings, shoes, and washing. Where silk stockings, or other extra articles of linen are worn, they are found by the family, as well as his livery, a working dress, consisting of a pair of overalls, a waistcoat, a fustian jacket, with a white or jean one for times when he is liable to be called to answer the door or wait at breakfast; and, on quitting his service, he is expected to leave behind him any livery had within six months.
2172. The footman is only seen in stockings, shoes, and cleaning clothes. If he wears silk stockings or any extra linen, the family discovers them, along with his uniform, which includes a pair of overalls, a vest, and a sturdy jacket, plus a white or denim one for when he might be called to answer the door or serve at breakfast. When he leaves his job, he is expected to return any uniform he received within the last six months.
2173. The footman is expected to rise early, in order to get through all his dirty work before the family are stirring. Boots and shoes, and knives and forks, should be cleaned, lamps in use trimmed, his master's clothes brushed, the furniture rubbed over; so that he may put aside his working dress, tidy himself, and appear in a clean jean jacket to lay the cloth and prepare breakfast for the family.
2173. The footman is expected to wake up early to finish all his chores before the family is awake. He needs to clean boots and shoes, wash knives and forks, trim the used lamps, brush his master's clothes, and wipe down the furniture. This way, he can change out of his work clothes, tidy himself up, and put on a clean denim jacket to set the table and get breakfast ready for the family.
2174. We need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process: three good brushes and good blacking must be provided; one of the brushes hard, to brush off the mud; the other soft, to lay on the blacking; the third of a medium hardness, for polishing; and each should be kept for its particular use. The blacking should be kept corked up, except when in use, and applied to the brush with a sponge tied to a stick, which, when put away, rests in a notch cut in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it is a good practice to wash off the mud, and wipe them dry with a sponge; then leave them to dry very gradually on their sides, taking care they are not placed near the fire, or scorched. Much delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies' boots, so as to make the leather look well-polished, and the upper part retain a fresh appearance, with the lining free from hand-marks, which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes.
2174. We don’t need to spend much time on the boot-cleaning process: you need three good brushes and good blacking. One brush should be hard for removing mud; the second should be soft for applying the blacking; and the third should be medium hardness for polishing. Each brush should be kept for its specific use. The blacking should stay capped when not in use, and you should apply it to the brush using a sponge tied to a stick, which, when stored, rests in a notch in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it's a good idea to wash off the mud and wipe them dry with a sponge; then let them dry slowly on their sides, making sure they aren’t placed near the fire or scorched. Cleaning ladies' boots requires a delicate touch to make the leather look well-polished, and ensure the upper part stays looking fresh, with the lining free of hand marks, which can be very off-putting to a lady of refined taste.
2175. Patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet sponge, and afterwards with a soft dry cloth, and occasionally with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and polishing the edge of the soles in the usual way, but so as not to cover the patent polish with blacking. A little milk may also be used with very good effect for patent leather boots.
2175. Patent leather boots need to be wiped with a wet sponge, and then with a soft dry cloth. Occasionally, you should use a soft cloth and sweet oil, along with the usual blacking and polishing of the edges of the soles, but be careful not to cover the patent shine with blacking. A little milk can also be used effectively for patent leather boots.
2176. Top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen. While cleaning the lower part in the usual manner, protect the tops, by inserting a cloth or brown paper under the edges and bringing it over them. In cleaning the tops, let the covering fall down over the boot; wash the tops clean with soap and flannel, and rub out any spots with pumice-stone. If the tops are to be whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of pumice-stone in a pint of soft water; if a brown colour is intended, mix an ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum, half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an ounce of spirit of lavender, in a pint and a half of skimmed milk "turned." These mixtures apply by means of a sponge, and polish, when dry, with a rubber made of soft flannel.
2176. Men still occasionally wear tall boots. When cleaning the lower part as usual, protect the tops by placing a cloth or brown paper under the edges and draping it over them. To clean the tops, let the covering fall down over the boot; wash the tops with soap and a flannel cloth, and remove any spots with pumice stone. If you want the tops to be whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of pumice stone in a pint of soft water; if you want a brown color, mix an ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum, half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an ounce of lavender oil in a pint and a half of sour skim milk. Apply these mixtures with a sponge and polish with a soft flannel when dry.
2177. Knives are now generally cleaned by means of Kent's or Masters's machine, which gives very little trouble, and is very effective; before, however, putting the knives into the machine, it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little warm (not hot) water, and then thoroughly wiped: if put into the machine with any grease on them, it adheres to the brushes, and consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that may be put in. When this precaution is not taken, the machine must come to pieces, so causing an immense amount of trouble, which may all be avoided by having the knives thoroughly free from grease before using the machine. Brushes are also used for cleaning forks, which facilitate the operation. When knives are so cleaned, see that they are carefully polished, wiped, and with a good edge, the ferules and prongs free from dirt, and place them in the basket with the handles all one way.
2177. Knives are now usually cleaned using Kent's or Masters's machine, which is easy to use and very effective. However, before putting the knives in the machine, it's really important to wash them first in a little warm (not hot) water and then wipe them thoroughly. If you put them in the machine with any grease on them, it sticks to the brushes, making them unusable for the next knives that go in. If you skip this step, the machine will need to be taken apart, creating a huge hassle that can be avoided by ensuring the knives are completely grease-free before using the machine. Brushes are also utilized for cleaning forks, which makes the job easier. After cleaning the knives, make sure they are polished, wiped down, and have a good edge, with the ferrules and prongs free of dirt, and place them in the basket with the handles facing the same direction.
2178. Lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the mechanism; after that, constant attention to cleanliness, and an occasional entire clearing out with hot water: when this is done, all the parts should be carefully dried before filling again with oil. When lacquered, wipe the lacquered parts with a soft brush and cloth, and wash occasionally with weak soapsuds, wiping carefully afterwards. Brass lamps may be cleaned with oil and rottenstone every day when trimmed. With bronze, and other ornamental lamps, more care will be required, and soft flannel and oil only used, to prevent the removal of the bronze or enamel. Brass-work, or any metal-work not lacquered, is cleaned by a little oil and rottenstone made into a paste, or with fine emery-powder and oil mixed in the same manner. A small portion of sal ammoniac, beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft water, rubbed over brass ornaments, and heated over a charcoal fire, and rubbed dry with bran or whitening, will give to brass-work the brilliancy of gold. In trimming moderator lamps, let the wick be cut evenly all round; as, if left higher in one place than it is in another, it will cause it to smoke and burn badly. The lamp should then be filled with oil from a feeder, and afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the purpose. If it can be avoided, never wash the chimneys of a lamp, as it causes them to crack when they become hot. Small sticks, covered with wash-leather pads, are the best things to use for cleaning the glasses inside, and a clean duster for polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator lamp should be occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water, then well rinsed in cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. Where candle-lamps are used, take out the springs occasionally, and free them well from the grease that adheres to them.
2178. Trimming a lamp requires a good understanding of the mechanism; after that, you need to consistently keep it clean and occasionally do a thorough wash with hot water. Once you've done that, make sure to dry all the parts carefully before refilling with oil. For lacquered parts, use a soft brush and cloth to wipe them down, and occasionally wash them with weak soapy water, drying them carefully afterward. Brass lamps can be cleaned daily with oil and rottenstone when trimmed. For bronze and other decorative lamps, be more careful and only use soft flannel and oil to avoid damaging the bronze or enamel. To clean brass or any un-lacquered metal, use a little oil mixed with rottenstone to make a paste or fine emery powder mixed with oil. To give brass a golden shine, take a small amount of sal ammoniac, crush it into a fine powder, moisten it with soft water, rub it on brass ornaments, heat them over a charcoal fire, and then rub dry with bran or whitening. When trimming the wick of moderator lamps, make sure to cut it evenly all around; if one side is higher, it will cause smoking and poor burning. Fill the lamp with oil from a feeder, and then wipe it well with a cloth or rag reserved for this purpose. If possible, avoid washing the chimneys of a lamp, as this can cause them to crack when heated. Small sticks covered in wash-leather pads are best for cleaning the glass inside, while a clean duster works well for polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator lamp should be washed occasionally in warm soapy water, rinsed well in cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. If candle lamps are used, remove the springs occasionally and clean off any grease that clings to them.
2179. French polish, so universally applied to furniture, is easily kept in condition by dusting and rubbing with a soft cloth, or a rubber of old silk; but dining-tables can only be kept in order by hard rubbing, or rather by quick rubbing, which warms the wood and removes all spots.
2179. French polish, commonly used on furniture, is easy to maintain by dusting and wiping with a soft cloth or a piece of old silk; however, dining tables require more effort to keep in shape, specifically by vigorous rubbing, or rather by fast rubbing, which warms the wood and gets rid of any marks.
2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary operation. Fine cloths require to be brushed lightly, and with rather a soft brush, except where mud is to be removed, when a hard one is necessary, being previously beaten lightly to dislodge the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush it in the direction of the nap. Having brushed it properly, turn the sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at the elbow-joints; next turn the lappels or sides back over the folded sleeves; then lay the skirts over level with the collar, so that the crease may fall about the centre, and double one half over the other, so as the fold comes in the centre of the back.
2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but essential task. Fine fabrics need to be brushed gently with a soft brush, except when removing mud, which requires a hard brush that has been lightly beaten to shake off the dirt. Place the garment on a table and brush it in the direction of the fabric's nap. After properly brushing it, fold the sleeves back to the collar so that the creases sit at the elbow joints; next, fold the lapels or sides over the sleeves; then lay the skirts level with the collar so that the crease falls in the center, and finally fold one half over the other so that the fold is in the middle of the back.
2181. Having got through his dirty work, the single footman has now to clean himself and prepare the breakfast. He lays the cloth on the table; over it the breakfast-cloth, and sets the breakfast things in order, and then proceeds to wait upon his master, if he has any of the duties of a valet to perform.
2181. After finishing his dirty work, the lone footman now needs to clean up and get the breakfast ready. He sets the table with a cloth, adds a breakfast cloth on top, arranges the breakfast items, and then goes to serve his master, if he has any valet duties to carry out.
2182. Where a valet is not kept, a portion of his duties falls to the footman's share,—brushing the clothes among others. When the hat is silk, it requires brushing every day with a soft brush; after rain, it requires wiping the way of the nap before drying, and, when nearly dry, brushing with the soft brush and with the hat-stick in it. If the footman is required to perform any part of a valet's duties, he will have to see that the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing-room in due time; that the room is dusted and cleaned; that the washhand-ewer is filled with soft water; and that the bath, whether hot or cold, is ready when required; that towels are at hand; that hair-brushes and combs are properly cleansed, and in their places; that hot water is ready at the hour ordered; the dressing-gown and slippers in their place, the clean linen aired, and the clothes to be worn for the day in their proper places. After the master has dressed, it will be the footman's duty to restore everything to its place properly cleansed and dry, and the whole restored to order.
2182. When there isn't a valet, some of his responsibilities fall to the footman, including brushing clothes among other tasks. If the hat is made of silk, it needs to be brushed every day with a soft brush; after it rains, it should be wiped in the direction of the nap before drying, and when it's nearly dry, brushed again with the soft brush and a hat stick. If the footman has to take on any valet duties, he needs to make sure the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing room on time; that the room is dusted and cleaned; that the washbasin is filled with soft water; and that the bath, whether hot or cold, is ready when needed; that towels are available; that hairbrushes and combs are cleaned and put away; that hot water is prepared at the scheduled time; that the dressing gown and slippers are in place, the clean linen aired out, and the clothes for the day organized properly. After the master has dressed, it’s the footman’s job to put everything back in its place, ensuring everything is clean, dry, and organized.
2183. At breakfast, when there is no butler, the footman carries up the tea-urn, and, assisted by the housemaid, he waits during breakfast. Breakfast over, he removes the tray and other things off the table, folds up the breakfast-cloth, and sets the room in order, by sweeping up all crumbs, shaking the cloth, and laying it on the table again, making up the fire, and sweeping up the hearth.
2183. At breakfast, when there’s no butler, the footman brings up the tea-urn and, with help from the housemaid, waits during breakfast. After breakfast, he takes away the tray and other items from the table, folds the breakfast cloth, and tidies up the room by sweeping up all the crumbs, shaking out the cloth, and putting it back on the table, stoking the fire, and cleaning the hearth.
2184. At luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed, except where the footman is either out with the carriage or away on other business, when, in the absence of any butler, the housemaid must assist.
2184. At lunch, almost the same routine is followed, except when the footman is out with the carriage or busy with other tasks, in which case, if there’s no butler available, the housemaid has to help.
2185. For dinner, the footman lays the cloth, taking care that the table is not too near the fire, if there is one, and that passage-room is left. A tablecloth should be laid without a wrinkle; and this requires two persons: over this the slips are laid, which are usually removed preparatory to placing dessert on the table. He prepares knives, forks, and glasses, with five or six plates for each person. This done, he places chairs enough for the party, distributing them equally on each side of the table, and opposite to each a napkin neatly folded, within it a piece of bread or small roll, and a knife on the right side of each plate, a fork on the left, and a carving-knife and fork at the top and bottom of the table, outside the others, with the rests opposite to them, and a gravy-spoon beside the knife. The fish-slice should be at the top, where the lady of the house, with the assistance of the gentleman next to her, divides the fish, and the soup-ladle at the bottom: it is sometimes usual to add a dessert-knife and fork; at the same time, on the right side also of each plate, put a wine-glass for as many kinds of wine as it is intended to hand round, and a finger-glass or glass-cooler about four inches from the edge. The latter are frequently put on the table with the dessert.
2185. For dinner, the footman sets the table, making sure it’s not too close to the fire, if there's one, and that there's enough space to move around. The tablecloth should be laid out smoothly, which takes two people. On top of the tablecloth, he places slips that are usually taken off before dessert is served. He prepares knives, forks, and glasses, along with five or six plates for each person. Once that’s done, he arranges enough chairs for everyone, placing them evenly on each side of the table. In front of each chair, there’s a neatly folded napkin containing a piece of bread or a small roll. A knife is set on the right side of each plate and a fork on the left, with a carving knife and fork at each end of the table, placed outside the others, along with rests opposite them, and a gravy spoon next to the knife. The fish slice goes at the top, where the lady of the house, with help from the gentleman beside her, serves the fish, while the soup ladle is at the bottom. Sometimes, a dessert knife and fork are also added. On the right side of each plate, he places a wine glass for each type of wine that will be served, along with a finger bowl or glass cooler about four inches from the edge. The latter is often placed on the table with the dessert.
2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner-bell, where that is the practice, and occupies himself with carrying up everything he is likely to require. At the expiration of the time, having communicated with the cook, he rings the real dinner-bell, and proceeds to take it up with such assistance as he can obtain. Having ascertained that all is in order, that his own dress is clean and presentable, and his white cotton gloves are without a stain, he announces in the drawing-room that dinner is served, and stands respectfully by the door until the company are seated: he places himself on the left, behind his master, who is to distribute the soup; where soup and fish are served together, his place will be at his mistress's left hand; but he must be on the alert to see that whoever is assisting him, whether male or female, are at their posts. If any of the guests has brought his own servant with him, his place is behind his master's chair, rendering such assistance to others as he can, while attending to his master's wants throughout the dinner, so that every guest has what he requires. This necessitates both activity and intelligence, and should be done without bustle, without asking any questions, except where it is the custom of the house to hand round dishes or wine, when it will be necessary to mention, in a quiet and unobtrusive manner, the dish or wine you present.
2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner bell, as is the custom, and gets everything ready that he might need. When the time is up, after checking in with the cook, he rings the actual dinner bell and goes to set the table with whatever help he can find. Once he's made sure everything is set, his outfit is clean and neat, and his white cotton gloves are spotless, he announces in the drawing room that dinner is served and stands respectfully by the door until the guests are seated. He takes a position on the left, behind his master, who will serve the soup; if soup and fish are served together, he'll stand on his mistress's left side; but he has to stay alert to ensure that anyone assisting him, whether male or female, is in their spot. If any guests have brought their own servant, that person will stand behind their master's chair, helping others as needed while making sure their own master’s needs are met throughout dinner, so that every guest gets what they need. This requires both energy and quick thinking, and it should all be done without fuss or asking unnecessary questions, except in cases where it’s customary to serve dishes or wine, when he should quietly and unobtrusively mention the dish or wine he’s serving.
2187. Salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number sufficient for the guests, so that each may help themselves, or, at least, their immediate neighbours.
2187. Salt cellars should be placed on the table in a number sufficient for the guests, so that everyone can help themselves, or at least their immediate neighbors.
DINNERS À LA RUSSE.
2188. In some houses the table is laid out with plate and glass, and ornamented with flowers, the dessert only being placed on the table, the dinner itself being placed on the sideboard, and handed round in succession, in courses of soup, fish, entries, meat, game, and sweets. This is not only elegant but economical, as fewer dishes are required, the symmetry of the table being made up with the ornaments and dessert. The various dishes are also handed round when hot; but it involves additional and superior attendance, as the wines are also handed round; and unless the servants are very active and intelligent, many blunders are likely to be made. (See p. 954.)
2188. In some homes, the table is set with plates and glasses, and decorated with flowers, with only the dessert on the table. The main meal is served from the sideboard in courses: soup, fish, appetizers, meat, game, and sweets. This method is not only stylish but also cost-effective, as it requires fewer dishes, and the table's appearance is enhanced by the decorations and dessert. The various dishes are served while hot, but it requires more attentive and skilled service, since the wines are also served. If the staff isn't particularly quick and sharp, a lot of mistakes can happen. (See p. 954.)
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
2189. While attentive to all, the footman should be obtrusive to none; he should give nothing but on a waiter, and always hand it with the left hand and on the left side of the person he serves, and hold it so that the guest may take it with ease. In lifting dishes from the table, he should use both hands, and remove them with care, so that nothing is spilt on the table-cloth or on the dresses of the guests.
2189. While being attentive to everyone, the footman should not be intrusive to anyone; he should serve only on a tray and always offer it with his left hand and from the left side of the person he is serving, holding it in a way that makes it easy for the guest to take. When lifting dishes from the table, he should use both hands and remove them carefully so that nothing spills on the tablecloth or on the guests' clothing.
2190. Masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes; but it is not expected that a servant will correct any omissions, even if he should have time to notice them, although with the best intentions: thus it would not be correct, for instance, if he observed that his master took wine with the ladies all round, as some gentlemen still continue to do, but stopped at some one:—to nudge him on the shoulder and say, as was done by the servant of a Scottish gentleman, "What ails you at her in the green gown?" It will be better to leave the lady unnoticed than for the servant thus to turn his master into ridicule.
2190. Both masters and servants can make mistakes, but a servant isn't expected to point out any errors, even if they notice them and mean well. For example, it wouldn't be appropriate for a servant to nudge his master if he sees him enjoying wine with the ladies, like some gentlemen still do, but then hesitate with one of them:—to poke him on the shoulder and say, as a Scottish gentleman's servant did, "What's wrong with you and the lady in the green dress?" It's better for the servant to leave the lady unaddressed rather than embarrass his master.
2191. During dinner each person's knife, fork, plate, and spoon should be changed as soon as he has done with it; the vegetables and sauces belonging to the different dishes presented without remark to the guests; and the footman should tread lightly in moving round, and, if possible, should bear in mind, if there is a wit or humorist of the party, whose good things keep the table in a roar, that they are not expected to reach his ears.
2191. During dinner, each person's knife, fork, plate, and spoon should be replaced as soon as they're finished with them; the vegetables and sauces for the different dishes should be served quietly to the guests; and the footman should move around quietly, keeping in mind if there's a comedian or funny person at the table whose jokes often keep everyone laughing, so they shouldn’t be heard by him.
2192. In opening wine, let it be done quietly, and without shaking the bottle; if crusted, let it be inclined to the crusted side, and decanted while in that position. In opening champagne, it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop; properly cooled, the cork is easily extracted without an explosion; when the cork is out, the mouth of the bottle should be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm.
2192. When opening wine, do it gently, without shaking the bottle; if there’s sediment, tilt it to the side with the sediment and pour while it’s in that position. For champagne, you don’t need to pop the cork; if it’s properly chilled, the cork can be removed easily without any fuss. After the cork is out, wipe the opening of the bottle with the napkin resting on the footman’s arm.
2193. At the end of the first course, notice is conveyed to the cook, who is waiting to send up the second, which is introduced in the same way as before; the attendants who remove the fragments, carrying the dishes from the kitchen, and handing them to the footman or butler, whose duty it is to arrange them on the table. After dinner, the dessert-glasses and wines are placed on the table by the footman, who places himself behind his master's chair, to supply wine and hand round the ices and other refreshments, all other servants leaving the room.
2193. At the end of the first course, the cook is notified, ready to send out the second course, which is served just like the first. The staff clears away the leftover dishes, taking them from the kitchen and handing them to the footman or butler, whose job it is to set them on the table. After dinner, the footman brings out the dessert glasses and wines, standing behind his master's chair to pour wine and pass around the ice cream and other refreshments, while all the other servants exit the room.
2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman enters with the tray, which has been previously prepared; hands the tray round to the company, with cream and sugar, the tea and coffee being generally poured out, while another attendant hands cakes, toast, or biscuits. If it is an ordinary family party, where this social meal is prepared by the mistress, he carries the urn or kettle, as the case may be; hands round the toast, or such other eatable as may be required, removing the whole in the same manner when tea is over.
2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman comes in with the pre-prepared tray, passing it around to the guests, along with cream and sugar, while tea and coffee are usually already poured. Another staff member serves cakes, toast, or biscuits. If it's a regular family gathering, where the hostess has prepared this social meal, he carries the urn or kettle, serves the toast or any other food needed, and clears everything away in the same way once tea is finished.
2195. After each meal, the footman's place is in his pantry: here perfect order should prevail—a place for everything and everything in its place. A sink, with hot and cold water laid on, is very desirable,—cold absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls or tubs of sufficient capacity are required, one for hot and another for cold water. Have the bowl three parts full of clean hot water; in this wash all plate and plated articles which are greasy, wiping them before cleaning with the brush.
2195. After each meal, the footman should be in his pantry: this is where everything should be perfectly organized—a place for everything and everything in its place. A sink with hot and cold water is very desirable—cold water is absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls or tubs that are large enough are needed, one for hot and another for cold water. Fill the bowl three parts full with clean hot water; in this, wash all plates and plated items that are greasy, wiping them down with a brush before cleaning.
2196. The footman in small families, where only one man is kept, has many of the duties of the upper servants to perform as well as his own, and more constant occupation; he will also have the arrangement of his time more immediately under his own control, and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division. All his rough work should be done before breakfast is ready, when he must appear clean, and in a presentable state. After breakfast, when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned and put in its place, the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms requires rubbing. Towards noon, the parlour luncheon is to be prepared; and he must be at his mistress's disposal to go out with the carriage, or follow her if she walks out.
2196. In smaller households, where there's only one footman, he has to handle many of the tasks usually done by higher-ranking servants in addition to his own responsibilities, leaving him with more constant work. He’ll also have more control over how he manages his time, so it’s a good idea for him to organize it methodically. He should complete all his rough tasks before breakfast is ready, ensuring that he appears clean and presentable when it's time to serve. After breakfast, once everything in the pantry is cleaned and organized, he needs to give the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms a good polish. Around noon, he must prepare the lunch for the parlor and be ready to assist his mistress, whether that means accompanying her in the carriage or following her if she decides to walk.
2197. Glass is a beautiful and most fragile article: hence it requires great care in washing. A perfectly clean wooden bowl is best for this operation, one for moderately hot and another for cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or three times, to drain for a few minutes. When sufficiently drained, wipe them with a cloth and polish with a finer one, doing so tenderly and carefully. Accidents will happen; but nothing discredits a servant in the drawing-room more than continual reports of breakages, which, of course, must reach that region.
2197. Glass is a beautiful but very fragile item, so it needs to be handled with care when washing. A completely clean wooden bowl works best for this task, one for moderately hot water and another for cold. Clean the glasses thoroughly in the first bowl and rinse them in the second. Then, place them upside down on a linen cloth folded two or three times to drain for a few minutes. Once they've drained enough, wipe them with a cloth and polish them with a finer one, doing so gently and carefully. Accidents can happen, but nothing makes a servant look worse in the drawing room than constant reports of breakages, which, of course, will get around.
2198. Decanters and water-jugs require still more tender treatment in cleaning, inasmuch as they are more costly to replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot but not boiling water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper; leave them thus for two or three hours; then shake the water up and down in the decanters; empty this out, rinse them well with clean cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When dry, polish them outside and inside, as far as possible, with a fine cloth. To remove the crust of port or other wines, add a little muriatic acid to the water, and let it remain for some time.
Decanters and water jugs need extra care when cleaning since they're pricier to replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot water, but not boiling, and add a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper. Let them sit like that for two or three hours, then shake the water up and down inside the decanters. Empty it out, rinse them thoroughly with clean cold water, and place them in a rack to drain. Once dry, polish both the inside and outside as much as you can with a soft cloth. To get rid of the residue from port or other wines, add a little muriatic acid to the water and let it sit for a while.
2199. When required to go out with the carriage, it is the footman's duty to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean, and that the glasses, and sashes, and linings, are free from dust. In receiving messages at the carriage door, he should turn his ear to the speaker, so as to comprehend what is said, in order that he may give his directions to the coachman clearly. When the house he is to call at is reached, he should knock, and return to the carriage for orders. In closing the door upon the family, he should see that the handle is securely turned, and that no part of the ladies' dress is shut in.
2199. When it's necessary to take the carriage out, it's the footman's job to ensure it arrives at the door spotless and that the windows, frames, and interiors are dust-free. When receiving messages at the carriage door, he should listen closely to the speaker so he can relay the instructions to the coachman accurately. Once he arrives at the house he needs to visit, he should knock and then go back to the carriage for further instructions. When closing the door behind the family, he should make sure the handle is turned securely and that no part of the ladies' dresses gets caught in it.
2200. It is the footman's duty to carry messages or letters for his master or mistress to their friends, to the post, or to the tradespeople; and nothing is more important than dispatch and exactness in doing so, although writing even the simplest message is now the ordinary and very proper practice. Dean Swift, among his other quaint directions, all of which are to be read by contraries, recommends a perusal of all such epistles, in order that you may be the more able to fulfil your duty to your master. An old lady of Forfarshire had one of those odd old Caleb Balderston sort of servants, who construed the Dean of St. Patrick more literally. On one occasion, when dispatch was of some importance, knowing his inquiring nature, she called her Scotch Paul Pry to her, opened the note, and read it to him herself, saying, "Now, Andrew, you ken a' aboot it, and needna' stop to open and read it, but just take it at once." Probably most of the notes you are expected to carry might, with equal harmlessness, be communicated to you; but it will be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress's affairs.
2200. It's the footman's job to deliver messages or letters for his master or mistress to their friends, the post, or local merchants; and nothing is more crucial than being quick and precise in doing this, even though writing the simplest note is now the standard and completely acceptable practice. Dean Swift, in his usual quirky way, suggests that you should read all such letters to better fulfill your duty to your master. An elderly lady from Forfarshire had one of those quirky old servants like Caleb Balderston, who took the Dean of St. Patrick's advice a bit too literally. Once, when it was important to be prompt, she called her inquisitive servant over, opened the note, and read it to him herself, saying, "Now, Andrew, you know all about it, so you don’t need to stop to open and read it, just take it right away." Probably, most of the notes you’re expected to carry could be shared with you just as harmlessly; however, it’s better not to take such a keen interest in your mistress's matters.
2201. Politeness and civility to visitors is one of the things masters and mistresses have a right to expect, and should exact rigorously. When visitors present themselves, the servant charged with the duty of opening the door will open it promptly, and answer, without hesitation, if the family are "not at home," or "engaged;" which generally means the same thing, and might be oftener used with advantage to morals. On the contrary, if he has no such orders, he will answer affirmatively, open the door wide to admit them, and precede them to open the door of the drawing-room. If the family are not there, he will place chairs for them, open the blinds (if the room is too dark), and intimate civilly that he goes to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her drawing-room, he announces the name of the visitors, having previously acquainted himself with it. In this part of his duty it is necessary to be very careful to repeat the names correctly; mispronouncing names is very apt to give offence, and leads sometimes to other disagreeables. The writer was once initiated into some of the secrets on the "other side" of a legal affair in which he took an interest, before he could correct a mistake made by the servant in announcing him. When the visitor is departing, the servant should be at hand, ready, when rung for, to open the door; he should open it with a respectful manner, and close it gently when the visitors are fairly beyond the threshold. When several visitors arrive together, he should take care not to mix up the different names together, where they belong to the same family, as Mr., Mrs., and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each as distinctly as possible.
2201. Being polite and civil to visitors is something that hosts have every right to expect and should enforce strictly. When visitors arrive, the servant responsible for opening the door will do so promptly and will answer without hesitation if the family is "not at home" or "busy;" which generally means the same thing and could often be used more to maintain good manners. On the other hand, if he doesn’t have such instructions, he will respond positively, open the door wide to let them in, and lead them to the drawing-room. If the family isn’t there, he will set up chairs for them, open the blinds if the room is too dim, and politely let them know that he’s going to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her drawing-room, he will announce the visitors' names, having learned them beforehand. In this part of his job, it’s crucial to pronounce the names correctly; mispronouncing names can easily offend and sometimes lead to other awkward situations. The writer once learned some secrets on the "other side" of a legal matter he was interested in before he could correct a mistake made by the servant in announcing him. When the visitor is leaving, the servant should be nearby, ready to open the door when rung for; he should do so respectfully and gently close it once the visitors have stepped outside. When multiple visitors arrive together, he should be careful not to mix up their names if they belong to the same family, like Mr., Mrs., and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each as clearly as possible.
2202. Receptions and Evening Parties.—The drawing-rooms being prepared, the card-tables laid out with cards and counters, and such other arrangements as are necessary made for the reception of the company, the rooms should be lighted up as the hour appointed approaches. Attendants in the drawing-room, even more than in the dining-room, should move about actively but noiselessly; no creaking of shoes, which is an abomination; watching the lights from time to time, so as to keep up their brilliancy. But even if the attendant likes a game of cribbage or whist himself, he must not interfere in his master or mistress's game, nor even seem to take an interest in it. We once knew a lady who had a footman, and both were fond of a game of cribbage,—John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing-room. The lady was a giver of evening parties, where she frequently enjoyed her favourite amusement. While handing about the tea and toast, John could not always suppress his disgust at her mistakes. "There is more in that hand, ma'am," he has been known to say; or, "Ma'am, you forgot to count his nob;" in fact, he identified himself with his mistress's game, and would have lost twenty places rather than witness a miscount. It is not necessary to adopt his example on this point, although John had many qualities a good servant might copy with advantage.
2202. Receptions and Evening Parties.—As the drawing rooms are getting ready, with card tables set up with cards and chips, and all other necessary arrangements made for welcoming guests, the rooms should be lit up as the appointed time approaches. Attendants in the drawing room, even more than in the dining room, should move around actively but quietly; no squeaking shoes, which is a major faux pas; they should also occasionally check the lights to maintain their brightness. Even if the attendant enjoys a game of cribbage or whist themselves, they must not interfere with their employer's game, nor should they appear to show interest in it. We once knew a lady who had a footman, and both enjoyed a game of cribbage—John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing room. The lady hosted evening parties where she often indulged in her favorite game. While serving tea and toast, John sometimes struggled to hide his frustration at her mistakes. "There's more in that hand, ma'am," he would say; or, "Ma'am, you forgot to count his nob;" in fact, he became so involved in his mistress's game that he would have rather lost twenty points than see a mistake made. It is not necessary to follow his example in this regard, although John had many qualities that a good servant could emulate to their advantage.
THE COACHHOUSE AND STABLES.
2203. THE HORSE is the noblest of quadrupeds, whether we view him in his strength, his sagacity, or his beauty. He is also the most useful to man of all the animal creation; but his delicacy is equal to his power and usefulness. No other animal, probably, is so dependent on man in the state of domestication to which he has been reduced, or deteriorates so rapidly under exposure, bad feeding, or bad grooming. It is, therefore, a point of humanity, not to speak of its obvious impolicy, for the owner of horses to overlook any neglect in their feeding or grooming. His interest dictates that so valuable an animal should be well housed, well fed, and well groomed; and he will do well to acquire so much of stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself. In a general way, where a horse's coat is habitually rough and untidy, there is a sad want of elbow-grease in the stable. When a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless, he is getting ill or badly fed; and where he is observed to perspire much in the stables, is overfed, and probably eats his litter in addition to his regular supply of food.
2203. THE HORSE is the most noble of four-legged animals, whether we consider his strength, intelligence, or beauty. He is also the most useful to humans of all animals; however, his sensitivity matches his power and usefulness. No other animal is likely as dependent on humans in the domesticated state he has been put in, nor does any deteriorate as quickly under exposure, poor feeding, or lack of grooming. Therefore, it is a matter of humanity, not to mention its obvious impracticality, that horse owners should not ignore any neglect in their feeding or grooming. Their interest dictates that such a valuable animal should be well housed, well fed, and well groomed; and they would do well to learn enough about stable care to assess these aspects themselves. Generally, if a horse's coat is consistently rough and messy, it indicates a lack of effort in the stable. When a horse of decent breeding appears dull and lethargic, it likely means he is sick or not being fed properly; and if he is seen sweating excessively in the stables, he is probably overfed and may even be eating his bedding in addition to his regular food.
2204. Stables.—The architectural form of the stables will be subject to other influences than ours; we confine ourselves, therefore, to their internal arrangements. They should be roomy in proportion to the number of stalls; warm, with good ventilation, and perfectly free from cold draughts; the stalls roomy, without excess, with good and well-trapped drainage, so as to exclude bad smells; a sound ceiling to prevent the entrance of dust from the hayloft, which is usually above them; and there should be plenty of light, coming, however, either from above or behind, so as not to glare in the horse's eye.
2204. Stables.—The design of the stables will be influenced by factors beyond our control; therefore, we will focus on their internal layout. They should be spacious relative to the number of stalls, warm, well-ventilated, and completely protected from cold draughts. The stalls should be spacious without being excessive, with effective drainage to keep out unpleasant odors. A solid ceiling is necessary to prevent dust from the hayloft above from entering. Additionally, there should be plenty of light, but it should come from above or behind to avoid blinding the horses.
2205. Heat.—The first of these objects is attained, if the stables are kept within a degree or two of 50° in winter, and 60° in summer; although some grooms insist on a much higher temperature, in the interests of their own labour.
2205. Heat.—The first of these goals is achieved if the stables are maintained at around 50° in winter and 60° in summer; though some grooms argue for a much higher temperature for their own convenience.
2206. Ventilation is usually attained by the insertion of one or more tubes or boxes of wood or iron through the ceiling and the roof, with a sloping covering over the opening, to keep out rain, and valves or ventilators below to regulate the atmosphere, with openings in the walls for the admission of fresh air: this is still a difficulty, however; for the effluvium of the stable is difficult to dispel, and draughts must be avoided. This is sometimes accomplished by means of hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside, for the exit of bad air, which is carried down through the hollow walls and discharged at the bottom, while, for the admission of fresh air, the reverse takes place: the fresh by this means gets diffused and heated before it is discharged into the stable.
2206. Ventilation is typically achieved by installing one or more tubes or wooden or metal boxes through the ceiling and roof, with a slanted cover over the opening to keep out rain, and valves or vents below to regulate the air quality, along with openings in the walls to let in fresh air. However, this remains a challenge; the odors from the stable are hard to eliminate, and drafts need to be avoided. This is sometimes done using hollow walls with grates at the bottom outside for the release of stale air, which is channeled down through the hollow walls and expelled at the bottom, while fresh air enters in the opposite way: this fresh air gets spread out and warmed before it enters the stable.
2207. The Stalls should be divided by partitions of wood-work eight or nine feet high at the head and six at the heels, and nine feet deep, so as to separate each horse from its neighbour. A hay-rack placed within easy reach of the horse, of wood or iron, occupies either a corner or the whole breadth of the stall, which should be about six feet for on ordinary-sized horse. A manger, formerly of wood, but of late years more generally of iron lined with enamel, occupies a corner of the stall. The pavement of the stall should be nearly level, with a slight incline towards the gutter, to keep the bed dry, paved with hard Dutch brick laid on edge, or asphalte, or smithy clinkers, or rubble-stones, laid in strong cement. In the centre, about five feet from the wall, a grating should be firmly fixed in the pavement, and in communication with a well-trapped drain to carry off the water; the gutter outside the stall should also communicate with the drains by trapped openings. The passage between the stall and the hall should be from five to six feet broad at least; on the wall, opposite to each stall, pegs should be placed for receiving the harness and other things in daily use.
2207. The Stalls should be divided by wooden partitions that are eight or nine feet high at the front and six feet at the back, and nine feet deep, to keep each horse separated from its neighbor. A hay rack, made of wood or metal, should be placed within easy reach of the horse, fitting into either a corner or spanning the full width of the stall, which should be about six feet for an average-sized horse. A manger, which used to be made of wood but is now more commonly made of iron lined with enamel, should occupy a corner of the stall. The floor of the stall should be nearly level with a slight slope towards the drain to keep the bedding dry, made from hard Dutch bricks laid on edge, or asphalt, or coal clinkers, or rubble stones set in strong cement. In the center, about five feet from the wall, a grating should be securely set in the floor and connected to a well-trapped drain to remove water; the outside gutter of the stall should also connect to the drains through trapped openings. The passage between the stall and the hallway should be at least five to six feet wide; on the wall opposite each stall, pegs should be installed for hanging harnesses and other daily items.
2208. A Harness-room is indispensable to every stable. It should be dry and airy, and furnished with a fireplace and boiler, both for the protection of the harness and to prepare mashes for the horses when required. The partition-wall should be boarded where the harness goes, with pegs to hang the various pieces of harness on, with saddle-trees to rest the saddles on, a cupboard for the brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a lock-up corn-bin.
2208. A Harness-room is essential for every stable. It should be dry and well-ventilated, equipped with a fireplace and a boiler, both to protect the harness and to prepare mashes for the horses when needed. The partition wall should be boarded where the harness is stored, with pegs to hang the different pieces of harness on, saddle racks to hold the saddles, a cupboard for brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a locked corn-bin.
2209. The furniture of a stable with coachhouse, consists of coach-mops, jacks for raising the wheels, horse-brushes, spoke-brushes, water-brushes, crest and bit-brushes, dandy-brushes, currycombs, birch and heath brooms, trimming-combs, scissors and pickers, oil-cans and brushes, harness-brushes of three sorts, leathers, sponges for horse and carriage, stable-forks, dung-baskets or wheelbarrow, corn-sieves and measures, horse-cloths and stable pails, horn or glass lanterns. Over the stables there should be accommodation for the coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents sometimes occur, and he should be at hand to interfere.
2209. The furniture of a stable with a coach house includes coach mops, jacks for lifting the wheels, horse brushes, spoke brushes, water brushes, crest and bit brushes, dandy brushes, curry combs, birch and heath brooms, trimming combs, scissors, and pickers, oil cans and brushes, three types of harness brushes, leathers, sponges for horses and carriages, stable forks, dung baskets or a wheelbarrow, corn sieves and measures, horse blankets, and stable buckets, along with horn or glass lanterns. Above the stables, there should be a place for the coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents can happen, and he should be available to assist.
DUTIES OF THE COACHMAN, GROOM, AND STABLE-BOY.
2210. The Establishment we have in view will consist of coachman, groom, and stable-boy, who are capable of keeping in perfect order four horses, and perhaps the pony. Of this establishment the coachman is chief. Besides skill in driving, he should possess a good general knowledge of horses; he has usually to purchase provender, to see that the horses are regularly fed and properly groomed, watch over their condition, apply simple remedies to trifling ailments in the animals under his charge, and report where he observes symptoms of more serious ones which he does not understand. He has either to clean the carriage himself, or see that the stable-boy does it properly.
2210. The Establishment we’re considering will include a driver, a groom, and a stable boy, all capable of keeping four horses and maybe a pony in perfect condition. The driver is in charge. In addition to being skilled at driving, he should have a solid general knowledge of horses; he typically needs to buy feed, ensure that the horses are fed regularly and groomed properly, monitor their health, apply basic remedies for minor issues, and report any signs of more serious problems he doesn’t understand. He either cleans the carriage himself or makes sure the stable boy does it correctly.
2211. The Groom's first duties are to keep his horses in condition; but he is sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet, to ride out with his master, on occasions, to wait at table, and otherwise assist in the house: in these cases, he should have the means of dressing himself, and keeping his clothes entirely away from the stables. In the morning, about six o'clock, or rather before, the stables should be opened and cleaned out, and the horses fed, first by cleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay, putting it lightly in the rack, that the horses may get it out easily; a short time afterwards their usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger. While this is going on, the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung, and sweeping and washing out the stables, both of which should be done every day, and every corner carefully swept, in order to keep the stable sweet and clean. The real duties of the groom follow: where the horses are not taken out for early exercise, the work of grooming immediately commences. "Having tied up the head," to use the excellent description of the process given by old Barrett, "take a currycomb and curry him all over the body, to raise the dust, beginning first at the neck, holding the left cheek of the headstall in the left hand, and curry him from the setting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks, down to the point of the hock; then change your hands, and curry him before, on his breast, and, laying your right arm over his back, join your right side to his left, and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels, and so all over from the knees and back upwards; after that, go to the far side and do that likewise. Then take a dead horse's tail, or, failing that, a cotton dusting-cloth, and strike that away which the currycomb hath raised. Then take a round brush made of bristles, with a leathern handle, and dress him all over, both head, body, and legs, to the very fetlocks, always cleansing the brush from the dust by rubbing it with the currycomb. In the curry-combing process, as well as brushing, it must be applied with mildness, especially with fine-skinned horses; otherwise the tickling irritates them much. The brushing is succeeded by a hair-cloth, with which rub him all over again very hard, both to take away loose hairs and lay his coat; then wash your hands in fair water, and rub him all over while they are wet, as well over the head as the body. Lastly, take a clean cloth, and rub him all over again till he be dry; then take another hair-cloth, and rub all his legs exceeding well from the knees and hocks downwards to his hoofs, picking and dressing them very carefully about the fetlocks, so as to remove all gravel and dust which will sometimes lie in the bending of the joints." In addition to the practice of this old writer, modern grooms add wisping, which usually follows brushing. The best wisp is made from a hayband, untwisted, and again doubled up after being moistened with water: this is applied to every part of the body, as the brushing had been, by changing the hands, taking care in all these operations to carry the hand in the direction of the coat. Stains on the hair are removed by sponging, or, when the coat is very dirty, by the water-brush; the whole being finished off by a linen or flannel cloth. The horsecloth should now be put on by taking the cloth in both hands, with the outside next you, and, with your right hand to the off side, throw it over his back, placing it no farther back than will leave it straight and level, which will be about a foot from the tail. Put the roller round, and the pad-piece under it, about six or eight inches from the fore legs. The horse's head is now loosened; he is turned about in his stall to have his head and ears rubbed and brushed over every part, including throat, with the dusting-cloth, finishing by "pulling his ears," which all horses seem to enjoy very much. This done, the mane and foretop should be combed out, passing a wet sponge over them, sponging the mane on both sides, by throwing it back to the midriff, to make it lie smooth. The horse is now returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, cleaning it of stains with a wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, and forelock when necessary, smoothing them down with a brush on which a little oil has been dropped.
2211. The Groom's first duties are to keep his horses in shape; but he's sometimes expected to act as a valet, ride out with his master occasionally, serve at the table, and assist around the house. In these situations, he should have the means to dress himself and keep his clothes entirely away from the stables. In the morning, around six o'clock, or even earlier, the stables should be opened and cleaned, and the horses fed, starting by cleaning the hay rack and adding fresh hay, placing it lightly in the rack so the horses can easily get it out; shortly after, their usual morning oats should be placed in the manger. While this is happening, the stable-boy has been removing the manure and sweeping and washing out the stables, both of which should be done daily, with every corner carefully swept to keep the stable fresh and clean. The real duties of the groom follow: if the horses are not taken out for early exercise, grooming immediately begins. "Having tied up the head," as the old writer Barrett excellently describes, "take a curry comb and curry him all over the body to raise dust, starting at the neck, holding the left side of the headstall in your left hand, and curry from the base of the head all over the body to the buttocks, down to the hock; then switch hands and curry his chest, laying your right arm over his back to bring your right side to his left, and curry under the belly near the front legs, and continue all over from the knees back up; after that, go to the other side and do the same. Then take a dead horse's tail or, if unavailable, a cotton dusting cloth, to brush away the dust raised by the curry comb. Next, use a round brush with bristles and a leather handle to groom him all over, including the head, body, and legs, down to the fetlocks, always cleaning the brush by rubbing it against the curry comb. In both the curry combing and brushing process, it should be done gently, especially with sensitive-skinned horses, or else the tickling can irritate them. After brushing, use a hair-cloth to rub him all over again firmly, both to remove loose hair and smooth the coat; then wash your hands in clean water and rub him all over while they're wet, including the head and body. Finally, take a clean cloth and rub him all over again until he is dry; then use another hair-cloth to rub all his legs down carefully from the knees and hocks to his hooves, being sure to clean and dress the area around the fetlocks to remove any gravel and dust that may gather in the joints." Besides the techniques of this old writer, modern grooms add a wisping step, which usually follows brushing. The best wisp is made from a hay band, untwisted and doubled after being moistened with water: this is applied to every part of the body like the brushing, switching hands, ensuring to brush in the direction of the coat. Stains on the coat are removed by sponging, or, when very dirty, with a water brush; everything is finished off with a linen or flannel cloth. The horse blanket should now be put on by holding it with both hands, with the outside facing you, and using your right hand to throw it over his back, placing it no further back than a foot from the tail to keep it straight and level. Wrap the roller around and place the pad piece under it, about six or eight inches from the front legs. The horse's head is then loosened; he is turned in his stall to have his head and ears brushed with the dusting cloth, finishing with “pulling his ears,” which all horses seem to really enjoy. Once that's done, comb out the mane and forelock, sponging both sides of the mane to make it lie smooth. The horse is then returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, stains cleaned with a wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, and smoothing them down with a brush that has a little oil on it.
2212. Watering usually follows dressing; but some horses refuse their food until they have drunk: the groom should not, therefore, lay down exclusive rules on this subject, but study the temper and habits of his horse.
2212. Watering usually comes after dressing; however, some horses won't eat until they've had a drink. The groom shouldn't set hard and fast rules about this but should pay attention to the horse's personality and habits.
2213. Exercise.—All horses not in work require at least two hours' exercise daily; and in exercising them a good groom will put them through the paces to which they have been trained. In the case of saddle-horses he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop them, in order to keep them up to their work. With draught horses they ought to be kept up to a smart walk and trot.
2213. Exercise.—All horses that aren't working need at least two hours of exercise every day; and when exercising them, a good groom will put them through the movements they have been trained for. For saddle horses, he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop them to keep them fit for their work. With draft horses, they should be kept at a brisk walk and trot.
2214. Feeding must depend on their work, but they require feeding three times a day, with more or less corn each time, according to their work. In the fast coaching days it was a saying among proprietors, that "his belly was the measure of his food;" but the horse's appetite is not to be taken as a criterion of the quantity of food under any circumstances. Horses have been known to consume 40 lbs. of hay in twenty-four hours, whereas 16 lbs. to 18 lbs. is the utmost which should have been given. Mr. Croall, an extensive coach proprietor in Scotland, limited his horses to 4-1/2 lbs. cut straw, 8 lbs. bruised oats, and 2-1/2 lbs. bruised beans, in the morning and noon, giving them at night 25 lbs. of the following; viz., 560 lbs. steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. barley-dust, 40 lbs. cut straw, and 6 lbs. salt, mixed up together: under this the horses did their work well. The ordinary measure given a horse is a peck of oats, about 40 lbs. to the bushel, twice a day, a third feed and a rack-full of hay, which may be about 15 lbs. or 18 lbs., when he is in full work.
2214. Feeding should be based on their work, but they need to be fed three times a day, with varying amounts of corn each time, depending on their workload. Back in the days of fast coaching, it was said among owners that "his belly was the measure of his food;" however, a horse's appetite shouldn't be the standard for how much food they should get in any situation. Horses have been known to eat 40 lbs. of hay in a day, while the maximum that should be given is 16 lbs. to 18 lbs. Mr. Croall, a well-known coach owner in Scotland, fed his horses 4-1/2 lbs. of cut straw, 8 lbs. of bruised oats, and 2-1/2 lbs. of bruised beans in the morning and noon, and at night provided them with a mixture of 25 lbs., which included 560 lbs. of steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. of barley-dust, 40 lbs. of cut straw, and 6 lbs. of salt: with this diet, the horses performed well. The standard amount given to a horse is a peck of oats, which is about 40 lbs. per bushel, twice a day, plus a third feed and a full rack of hay, which may be around 15 lbs. or 18 lbs., when they're doing full work.
2215. You cannot take up a paper without having the question put, "Do you bruise your oats?" Well, that depends on circumstances: a fresh young horse can bruise its own oats when it can get them; but aged horses, after a time, lose the power of masticating and bruising them, and bolt them whole; thus much impeding the work of digestion. For an old horse, then, bruise the oats; for a young one it does no harm and little good. Oats should be bright and dry, and not too new. Where they are new, sprinkle them with salt and water; otherwise, they overload the horse's stomach. Chopped straw mixed with oats, in the proportion of a third of straw or hay, is a good food for horses in full work; and carrots, of which horses are remarkably fond, have a perceptible effect in a short time on the gloss of the coat.
2215. You can’t pick up a paper without hearing the question, “Do you bruise your oats?” Well, that depends on the situation: a young horse can bruise its own oats when it can get them; but older horses eventually lose the ability to chew and bruise them, and swallow them whole, which slows down digestion. So, for an old horse, bruise the oats; for a young horse, it doesn’t really help much. Oats should be bright and dry, and not too fresh. If they are fresh, sprinkle them with salt and water; otherwise, they can overload the horse’s stomach. Mixing chopped straw with oats in a ratio of one-third straw or hay is good for horses in heavy work; and carrots, which horses love, noticeably improve the shine of their coat in a short time.
2216. The water given to a horse merits some attention; it should not be too cold; hard water is not to be recommended; stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious; river water is the best for all purposes; and anything is preferable to spring water, which should be exposed to the sun in summer for an hour or two, and stirred up before using it; a handful of oatmeal thrown into the pail will much improve its quality.
2216. The water given to a horse deserves some consideration; it shouldn't be too cold; hard water isn't advisable; stagnant or muddy water is definitely harmful; river water is the best for all purposes; and anything is better than spring water, which should be left in the sun for an hour or two in summer and stirred up before using it; adding a handful of oatmeal to the pail really improves its quality.
2217. Shoeing.—A horse should not be sent on a journey or any other hard work immediately after new shoeing;—the stiffness incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to bring him down. A day's rest, with reasonable exercise, will not be thrown away after this operation. On reaching home very hot, the groom should walk him about for a few minutes; this done, he should take off the moisture with the scraper, and afterwards wisp him over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth: if the cloth is dipped in some spirit, all the better. He should wash, pick, and wipe dry the legs and feet, take off the bridle and crupper, and fasten it to the rack, then the girths, and put a wisp of straw under the saddle. When sufficiently cool, the horse should have some hay given him, and then a feed of oats: if he refuse the latter, offer him a little wet bran, or a handful of oatmeal in tepid water. When he has been fed, he should be thoroughly cleaned, and his body-clothes put on, and, if very much harassed with fatigue, a little good ale or wine will be well bestowed on a valuable horse, adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly.
2217. Shoeing.—A horse shouldn't be sent on a trip or any tough work right after getting new shoes; the stiffness that comes with new shoes could likely lead to an injury. Giving the horse a day of rest with some light exercise after this procedure is advisable. When you get home and the horse is very hot, the groom should walk him for a few minutes; after that, he should remove the moisture with a scraper and then brush him off using a handful of straw and a flannel cloth: it’s even better if the cloth is dampened with some spirit. The groom should wash, pick, and dry the horse’s legs and feet, take off the bridle and crupper, and hang them on the rack, then loosen the girths and place a wisp of straw under the saddle. Once the horse has cooled down enough, he should be given some hay, followed by a feed of oats: if he refuses the oats, try offering a bit of wet bran or a handful of oatmeal mixed with warm water. After he’s been fed, he should be cleaned thoroughly and dressed in his body-cover, and if he’s really exhausted, giving a bit of good ale or wine would be a nice treat for a valuable horse, along with plenty of fresh bedding underneath.
2218. Bridles.—Every time a horse is unbridled, the bit should be carefully washed and dried, and the leather wiped, to keep them sweet, as well as the girths and saddle, the latter being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is again put on. In washing a horse's feet after a day's work, the master should insist upon the legs and feet being washed thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them, and then rubbed with a brush till quite dry.
2218. Bridles.—Every time a horse is unbridled, the bit should be carefully washed and dried, and the leather wiped down to keep everything fresh, including the girths and saddle. The saddle should be carefully dried and brushed with a switch before being put on again. When washing a horse's feet after a day's work, the owner should make sure the legs and feet are thoroughly washed with a sponge until the water runs off them, and then rubbed with a brush until completely dry.
2219. Harness, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a shabby tarnished appearance. Where the coachman has a proper harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is inexcusable and easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining all round, and be perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the walls, hooks and pegs should be placed, for the several pieces of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching the ground; and every part of the harness should have its peg or hook,—one for the halters, another for the reins, and others for snaffles and other bits and metal-work; and either a wooden horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts should be dry, clean, and shining. This is only to be done by careful cleaning and polishing, and the use of several requisite pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a soft brush and plate-powder; the copper and brass parts burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil,—steel with emery-powder; both made into a paste with a little oil.
2219. Harness, if not properly taken care of, quickly becomes worn and dull. If the coachman has a dedicated harness room and enough help, this is unacceptable and easily avoidable. The harness room should be lined with wood all around, and it needs to be completely dry and well-ventilated. Hooks and pegs should be mounted on the walls for the various pieces of harness, at a height that keeps them from touching the ground; each part of the harness should have its own peg or hook—one for the halters, another for the reins, and additional ones for snaffles and other bits and hardware; and either a wooden horse or saddle racks for the saddles and pads. All these components should be clean, dry, and shiny. This requires careful cleaning and polishing, along with the use of several necessary pastes. The metal parts, when they are shiny, should be cleaned with a soft brush and plate powder; the copper and brass parts should be polished with rottenstone powder and oil, while steel should be treated with emery powder, mixed into a paste with a little oil.
2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the leather-work of carriages, is made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour 1 lb. of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water, and dried and sifted through a sieve, leaving the two, when mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them continually till all is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with 1-1/4 lb. of good ivory-black; place this again on the fire, and stir till it boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a little, add distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish paste, scenting it with any essence at hand, thinning it when necessary from time to time, by adding distilled turpentine.
2220. A great paste for polishing harness and the leatherwork of carriages can be made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow wax and stirring it until it’s completely dissolved. Then, pour in 1 lb. of litharge that has been pounded up with water, dried, and sifted through a sieve. Let the two mixtures simmer on the fire, stirring constantly until everything is melted. Once it cools a bit, mix in 1-1/4 lbs. of good ivory-black. Put it back on the heat and stir until it boils again, then let it cool. When it has cooled a bit, add distilled turpentine until it achieves a thick paste consistency, adding any scent you have on hand, and thinning it as needed from time to time with distilled turpentine.
2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned before applying this polish, with a brush wetted in a weak solution of potass and water, washing afterwards with soft river water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the polish. When quite dry, the varnish should be laid on with a soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather.
2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned before applying this polish, using a brush dampened with a weak solution of potassium and water. Rinse afterwards with soft river water and dry thoroughly. If the leather isn’t black, you can apply one or two coats of black ink before putting on the polish. Once it’s completely dry, apply the varnish with a soft shoe brush, and use a soft brush to polish the leather.
2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with fish-oil, and, after putting on the ink, a sponge charged with distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface of the leather, which should be polished as above.
2222. When the leather is really old, you can soften it with fish oil, and after applying the ink, use a sponge soaked in distilled turpentine to clean the surface of the leather, which should then be polished as described above.
2223. For fawn or yellow-coloured leather, take a quart of skimmed milk, pour into it 1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and, when cold, add to it 4 oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle gently until it ceases to emit white vapours; separate the coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a sieve, and store it away till required. In applying it, clean the leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off immediately, and apply the composition when dry with a sponge.
2223. For fawn or yellow-colored leather, take a quart of skim milk, add 1 oz. of sulfuric acid, and once it’s cooled, mix in 4 oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle gently until it stops releasing white vapors. Strain to separate the solid from the liquid, and store it until needed. When using it, clean the leather with a weak solution of oxalic acid, rinse it off immediately, and then apply the mixture with a sponge once it’s dry.
2224. Wheel-grease is usually purchased at the shops; but a good paste is made as follows:—Melt 80 parts of grease, and stir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly, 20 parts of fine black-lead in powder, and store away in a tin box for use. This grease is used in the mint at Paris, and is highly approved.
2224. Wheel-grease is typically bought at stores, but you can make a good paste like this: Melt 80 parts of grease, and then mix in 20 parts of fine black-lead powder until it’s smooth and well combined. Store it in a tin box for later use. This grease is used in the mint in Paris and is very well-regarded.
2225. Carriages in an endless variety of shapes and names are continually making their appearance; but the hackney cab or clarence seems most in request for light carriages; the family carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence adapted for family use. The carriage is a valuable piece of furniture, requiring all the care of the most delicate upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets.
2225. Carriages come in countless shapes and styles, but the hackney cab or clarence is usually the most popular choice for lightweight carriages. The family carriage of the time is basically a revised version of the clarence tailored for family needs. The carriage is an important piece of furniture, needing as much care as the finest upholstery, along with the drawback of constant exposure to the weather and the muddy streets.
2216. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before putting away, and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for the wood-work swells with moisture; it shrinks also with heat, unless the timber has undergone a long course of seasoning: it should also have a dry floor, a boarded one being recommended. It must be removed from the ammoniacal influence of the stables, from open drains and cesspools, and other gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish. When the carriage returns home, it should be carefully washed and dried, and that, if possible, before the mud has time to dry on it. This is done by first well slushing it with clean water, so as to wash away all particles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting the linings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, using plenty of clean water, and penetrating into every corner of the carved work, so that not an atom of dirt remains; the body of the carriage is then raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so that the wheel turns freely; this is now thoroughly washed with the mop until the dirt is removed, using a water-brush for corners where the mop does not penetrate. Every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop, and afterwards with a wet sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, as soon after as possible, the varnish is carefully polished with soft leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather parts, and even for the panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack. Stains are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if that fails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more successful.
2216. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned before storing, and the coach house should be completely dry and well-ventilated since the wood can swell with moisture. It also shrinks with heat unless the timber has been properly seasoned. The floor should be dry, and a boarded one is recommended. It must be kept away from the ammonia from the stables, open drains, and cesspools, as well as other gases that can damage the paint and varnish. When the carriage comes home, it should be carefully washed and dried, ideally before the mud has a chance to dry on it. This starts with rinsing it well with clean water to get rid of all sand particles, making sure to close the windows to avoid wetting the interior. Then, use a soft mop with plenty of clean water to go over the body, ensuring every corner of the carved work is reached so no dirt is left. The carriage body should then be lifted by placing the jack under the axle tree and raising it so the wheel turns freely. Wash it thoroughly with the mop until the dirt is gone, using a water brush for the corners the mop can’t reach. Remove every bit of mud and sand with the mop and then a wet sponge, dry the carriage, and as soon as possible, carefully polish the varnish with soft leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather areas and even for the panels to help prevent the varnish from cracking. Stains can be removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if that doesn't work, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil can be more effective.
2227. In preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbed over with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron-work and joints oiled, the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned,—the one with plate-powder, or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, and leather kept for the purpose,—the other with rottenstone mixed with a little oil, and applied without too much rubbing, until the paste is removed; but, if rubbed every day with the leather, little more will be required to keep it untarnished. The linings require careful brushing every day, the cushions being taken out and beaten, and the glass sashes should always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and axletree are carefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nuts tightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled.
2227. When getting the carriage ready for use, the entire body should be wiped down with a clean leather cloth and polished carefully. The ironwork and joints should be oiled, and the plated and brass parts should be cleaned regularly—use plate powder or well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil for the first, and use rottenstone mixed with a little oil for the latter, applying it gently until the paste is gone. However, if you rub it daily with the leather, minimal effort will be needed to keep it shiny. The linings should be brushed carefully every day, and the cushions should be removed and shaken out. The glass windows should always be bright and clean. The wheel rims and axle should be checked and greased as needed; bolts and nuts should be tightened, and all parts that could wear out should be inspected.
2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman's office, which is to drive; and much of the enjoyment of those in the carriage depends on his proficiency in his art,—much also of the wear of the carriage and horses. He should have sufficient knowledge of the construction of the carriage to know when it is out of order,—to know, also, the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him, without risking the springs, and without shaking those he is driving too much.
2228. These tasks, however, are just minor responsibilities of the coachman, whose main job is to drive. A lot of the enjoyment for those in the carriage relies on how skilled he is at his work, along with the wear and tear on the carriage and horses. He should have enough understanding of how the carriage is built to recognize when it needs repairs, and also know the speed he can maintain on the road without endangering the springs and without causing too much discomfort to the passengers.
2229. Having, with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy, put his horses to the carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking round them, that everything is properly arranged, the coachman proceeds to the off-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses, where they were thrown, buckles them together, and, placing his foot on the step, ascends to his box, having his horses now entirely under control. In ordinary circumstances, he is not expected to descend, for where no footman accompanies the carriage, the doors are usually so arranged that even a lady may let herself out, if she wishes it, from the inside. The coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching an accident, and all his attention is required to guide his horses.
2229. After putting the horses to the carriage, with or without help from the groom or stable boy, and ensuring everything is in order by checking around them, the coachman goes to the off-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses where they were thrown, buckles them together, and steps onto the step to take his place in the box, now having full control of his horses. Typically, he doesn't need to get down since if there isn't a footman with the carriage, the doors are designed so that even a lady can let herself out from inside if she wants. The coachman's job is to prevent any accidents, requiring all his focus to guide the horses.
2230. The pace at which he drives will depend upon his orders,—in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, getting them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it is wonderful how soon these are acquired by some horses. The writer was once employed to purchase a horse for a country friend, and he picked a very handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which seemed to answer to his friend's wants. It was duly committed to the coachman who was to drive it, after some very successful trials in harness and out of it, and seemed likely to give great satisfaction. After a time, the friend got tired of his carriage, and gave it up; as the easiest mode of getting rid of the horse, it was sent up to the writer's stables,—a present. Only twelve months had elapsed; the horse was as handsome as ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and he was thankfully enough received; but, on trial, it was found that a stupid coachman, who was imbued with one of their old maxims, that "it's the pace that kills," had driven the horse, capable of doing his nine miles an hour with ease, at a jog-trot of four miles, or four and a half; and now, no persuasion of the whip could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to bring him back to his pace, in one of which a break-down occurred, under the hands of a professional trainer, he was sent to the hammer, and sold for a sum that did not pay for the attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, "that it's the pace that kills," is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching days, indeed, when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard while the clock was striking, week after week and mouth after month, with unerring regularity, twenty-seven hours to a hundred and sixty-two miles; when the "Quicksilver" mail was timed to eleven miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of £5 to the driver if behind time; when the Brighton "Age," "tool'd" and horsed by the late Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square as the fifth hour was striking, having stopped at the half-way house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry to his passengers,—then the pace was indeed "killing." But the truth is, horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that élan with which a good driver can inspire them, and they are left to do their work by mere weight and muscle; therefore, unless he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart pace, but not enough to make his horses perspire: on level roads this should never be seen.
2230. The speed at which he drives will depend on his instructions—likely a moderate pace of seven or eight miles per hour. Going slower is harmful to the horses, making them lazy and sluggish, as it's surprising how quickly some horses pick up these habits. The writer was once tasked with buying a horse for a friend in the country and chose a very attractive gelding from Collins's stables that seemed to fit his friend's needs. After some successful trials both in and out of harness, it was handed over to the coachman who was supposed to drive it and looked promising. Eventually, the friend grew tired of his carriage and decided to give it up; the easiest way to get rid of the horse was to send it to the writer's stables as a gift. Just twelve months later, the horse was as handsome as ever, with plenty of flesh and a shiny coat, and he was gratefully received. However, upon testing, it turned out that a not-so-bright coachman, who held onto the old saying that "it's the pace that kills," had driven the horse—capable of comfortably going nine miles an hour—at a slow trot of four or four and a half miles. Now, no amount of encouragement from the whip could get any more speed out of him. After multiple failed attempts to bring him back to his previous pace, one of which resulted in a breakdown under a professional trainer's care, he was sent to auction and sold for an amount that didn’t even cover the cost of the training effort. Therefore, this saying, "that it's the pace that kills," is entirely misleading in the moderate context we're discussing. Back in the days of coaching, indeed, when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard with precise regularity, twenty-seven hours for a hundred and sixty-two miles week after week and month after month, or when the "Quicksilver" mail was scheduled for eleven miles an hour between London and Plymouth—with a £5 fine for the driver if late—when the Brighton "Age," managed by the late Mr. Stevenson, would race around the square just as the fifth hour struck, stopping at a halfway house so his servant could provide a sandwich and a glass of sherry to his passengers—then the pace was genuinely "killing." But the reality is, horses driven at a slow trot lose the energy and spirit that a good driver can instill in them, relying solely on their weight and muscle to do the work. Therefore, unless he has different instructions, a good driver will opt for a brisk pace, but not enough to make the horses sweat; on flat roads, this should never be visible.
2231. In choosing his horses, every master will see that they are properly paired,—that their paces are about equal. When their habits differ, it is the coachman's duty to discover how he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of them. Some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the check, and the curb irritates them; others, with harder mouths, cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords; he must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best can. The reins should always be held so that the horses are "in hand;" but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein; the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and plunge, and finally break sway, if he can. He is also a bad driver when the reins are always slack; the horse then feels abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor supported, and if no accident occurs, it is great good luck.
2231. When selecting horses, every owner should make sure they are well-matched and have similar paces. If their habits differ, it’s the coachman’s job to figure out how to achieve the right pace with minimal stress on the horses. Some horses are used to being driven with a check, which irritates them with a curb; others have stronger mouths and can't be controlled with minimal leverage. So, the coachman needs to adjust for the horses as best as he can. The reins should always be held in a way that keeps the horses “in hand,” but a poor driver is one who keeps the reins too tight all the time; this causes unbearable pain for the horse, making it rear and struggle, and eventually break free if it can. A driver is also doing a bad job if the reins are always too loose; in that case, the horse feels left to fend for itself, lacking direction or support, and if nothing goes wrong, it’s just luck.
2232. The true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle, that the mere weight of the reins is felt on the bit, and the directions are indicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull; the horses are guided and encouraged, and only pulled up when they exceed their intended pace, or in the event of a stumble; for there is a strong though gentle hand on the reins.
2232. A good coachman has such delicate and gentle hands that the reins' weight is felt in the bit, and directions are given with a twist of the wrist instead of a yank; the horses are guided and encouraged, and only pulled back when they go faster than intended or if they stumble; there is a firm yet gentle grip on the reins.
2233. The Whip, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bred cattle, is there, more as a precaution than a "tool" for frequent use; if he uses it, it is to encourage, by stroking the flanks; except, indeed, he has to punish some waywardness of temper, and then he does it effectually, taking care, however, that it is done on the flank, where there is no very tender part, never on the crupper. In driving, the coachman should never give way to temper. How often do we see horses stumble from being conducted, or at least "allowed," to go over bad ground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that vengeance on the poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied to his own brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary, but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses.
2233. The Whip, in the hands of a skilled driver, and with well-trained cattle, is more of a precaution than a "tool" for regular use; if he does use it, it’s to encourage by gently stroking their sides; unless, of course, he needs to correct some misbehavior, and then he does it effectively, making sure it’s done on the flank, where it’s less sensitive, never on the hindquarters. When driving, the coachman should never lose his temper. How often do we see horses stumble because they’re led, or at least “allowed,” to go over rough ground by a careless driver, who then takes out his frustration on the poor horse instead of recognizing that the blame lies with his own brutal handling. The whip is, of course, useful and even necessary, but it should be used sparingly, mainly to encourage and motivate the horses.
DUTIES OF THE VALET.
2234. Attendants on the Person.-"No man is a hero to his valet," saith the proverb; and the corollary may run, "No lady is a heroine to her maid." The infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and too equally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests which attendants on the person have opportunities of applying. The valet and waiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress, receiving orders only from them, dressing them, accompanying them in all their journeys, the confidants and agents of their most unguarded moments, of their most secret habits, and of course subject to their commands,—even to their caprices; they themselves being subject to erring judgment, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that can be expected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour, and a respectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense, good temper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others, whether above or below them in the social scale, will be useful qualifications. Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, from sheer wealth, station, and education, more polished, and consequently more susceptible of annoyance; and any vulgar familiarity of manner is opposed to all their notions of self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners, therefore, and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers, either in praise or blame, is as essential in their absence, as good manners and respectful conduct in their presence.
2234. Attendants on the Person.-"No man is a hero to his valet," says the proverb; and the follow-up could be, "No lady is a heroine to her maid." The flaws of humanity are perhaps too many and too evenly distributed to withstand the intense scrutiny that personal attendants often apply. The valet and maid are positioned close to their employers, taking orders only from them, dressing them, traveling with them, serving as confidants during their most unguarded moments and secret habits, and, of course, are subject to their commands—even their whims; they themselves are prone to flawed judgment, influenced by inadequate education. All that's expected from such servants are polite manners, modest behavior, and a respectful distance, which are essential. Along with these, common sense, a good attitude, some self-restraint, and consideration for the feelings of others, regardless of their social status, are valuable traits. Their role requires them to serve those who, due to wealth, status, and education, are more refined and, consequently, more sensitive to annoyance; any crude familiarity would contradict their self-respect. Therefore, calm and unobtrusive conduct, along with a respectful restraint when discussing their employers—whether in praise or criticism—is just as crucial in their absence as good manners and respectful behavior are in their presence.
2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating of the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences by seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaid has swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burns cheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do well to throw up the sash to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time to recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now his duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be aired properly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed and cleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are laid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles of the toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set and stropped, and hot water ready for use.
2235. Some of the valet's responsibilities we've just touched on while discussing the footman's duties in a small household. His day starts by ensuring that his master's dressing room is tidy; that the housemaid has properly swept and dusted it; that the fire is lit and burning nicely; and some time before his master is expected, he should open the window to let in fresh air, closing it in time to maintain the temperature that his master prefers. Next, it's his job to place the body linen on the horse by the fire to air it out; to lay the trousers he intends his master to wear—carefully brushed and cleaned—on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and waistcoat, also carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are set out and ready for when needed. All the toiletries should be in their places, the razors properly set and sharpened, and hot water prepared for use.
2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving themselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and he should, besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brush the hair, beard, and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged, arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age and style of countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, the hair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as required. A good valet will now present the various articles of the toilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen, neck-tie, which he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waistcoat, coat, and boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished.
2236. Men usually prefer to shave themselves, but a valet should be ready to take care of it if needed; he should also be a skilled hairdresser. Once shaving is done, he needs to brush the hair, beard, and mustache, if that’s desired, arranging everything simply and stylishly based on the person's age and facial features. Hair should be cut every two weeks or, at most, three weeks, and whiskers should be trimmed as often as necessary. A good valet will present the various grooming items as they're needed; then he’ll bring the undergarments, necktie—which he will put on if required—and then the waistcoat, coat, and boots, all properly organized and carefully brushed and polished.
2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the valet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed on the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him, and receive his last orders for the day.
2237. After getting his master ready, if he is about to go out, the valet hands him his cane, gloves, and hat, the hat freshly brushed on the outside with a soft brush and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief, respectfully escorts him to the door, opens it for him, and takes any last orders for the day.
2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room, cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that may be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers.
2238. He now gets everything organized in the dressing room, cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds any clothes that might be lying around the room, putting them away in the drawers.
2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and appearance; it is the valet's duty, in this case, where his master permits it, to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for the occasion, so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness and cleanliness; that his linen and neck-tie, where that is white or coloured, are unsoiled; and where he is not accustomed to change them every day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to remove the crease of the previous fold. The coat collar,—which where the hair is oily and worn long, is apt to get greasy—should also be examined; a careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they appear, first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect, and the smell of which soon disappears. The grease is dissolved and removed by gentle scraping. The grease removed, add a little more of the spirit, and rub with a piece of clean cloth; finish by adding a few drops more; rub it with the palm of the hand, in the direction of the grain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of the garment.
2239. Some men can be careless about their clothes and appearance; if their master allows it, it’s the valet's job to pick out suitable items from the wardrobe for the occasion so he looks neat and clean. His shirts and ties, whether white or colored, should be spotless; and if he isn't used to changing them every day, the cravat should be rotated and even ironed to get rid of any creases from the previous fold. The collar of the coat—which can get greasy if the hair is oily and worn long—should also be checked; a diligent valet will take care of this by cleaning the spots as they appear, first moistening the grease spots with a bit of rectified spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which helps to refresh the fabric and the smell fades quickly. The grease is then gently scraped off. After removing the grease, add a bit more of the spirit and rub with a clean cloth; finish with a few more drops, rubbing it with the palm of your hand in the direction of the fabric grain, and it will be as clean and shiny as the rest of the clothing.
2240. Polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet, and not always to be obtained good by purchase; never so good, perhaps, as he can make for himself after the following recipes:—Take of ivory-black and treacle each 4 oz., sulphuric acid 1 oz., best olive-oil 2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegar 3 half-pints: mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the mixture; next pour in the oil; and, lastly, add the vinegar, stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly incorporated.
2240. Polishing boots is really important to the valet, and you can't always find a good polish for sale. It’s never as good as what he can make for himself using the following recipe: Take 4 oz. of ivory black and treacle, 1 oz. of sulfuric acid, 2 tablespoons of the best olive oil, and 3 half-pints of the best white wine vinegar. Mix the ivory black and treacle thoroughly in an earthen jar; then add the sulfuric acid while continuing to stir the mixture. Next, pour in the oil, and finally add the vinegar, stirring it in gradually until everything is fully combined.
241. Another polish is made by mixing 1 oz. each of pounded galls and logwood-chips, and 3 lbs. of red French vine (ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to half the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take 1/2 lb. each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. of green copperas, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the gum-arabic in the preceding decoction, and add the sugar and copperas: when all is dissolved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it smoothly. This mixture will yield 5 or 6 lbs. of a very superior polishing paste for boots and shoes.
241. Another polish can be made by mixing 1 oz. each of crushed galls and logwood chips, along with 3 lbs. of red French wine (ordinary). Boil everything together until the liquid is reduced to half its original amount, then strain it. Next, take 1/2 lb. each of crushed gum arabic and granulated sugar, 1 oz. of green vitriol, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the gum arabic in the decoction from earlier, then add the sugar and green vitriol. Once everything is dissolved and well combined, stir in the brandy, mixing it thoroughly. This will produce 5 or 6 lbs. of a very high-quality polishing paste for boots and shoes.
2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all the commissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes or messages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctually and promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his master returns home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion, and to have all things prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, he brings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called, delivers the messages be may have received for him, and otherwise acquits himself of the morning's commissions, and receives his orders for the remainder of the day. The routine of his evening duty is to have the dressing-room and study, where there is a separate one, arranged comfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared, dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything in order that is required for his master's comforts.
2242. It’s probably unnecessary to mention that after completing all the tasks assigned to him by his employer, like delivering notes or messages to friends or vendors, which he should do reliably and promptly, it’s his job to be ready when his employer gets home to get ready for dinner or any other occasion, and to have everything prepared for this second dressing. Before this, he brings to his attention the cards from visitors who may have stopped by, delivers any messages he may have received for him, wraps up the morning’s tasks, and gets his orders for the rest of the day. His evening routine includes making sure the dressing room and study, if there is a separate one, are set up comfortably for his employer, lighting the fires, getting the candles ready, ensuring the dressing gown and slippers are in place and aired out, and having everything organized for his employer’s comfort.
FEMALE DOMESTICS.
DUTIES OF THE LADY'S-MAID.
2243. The duties of a lady's-maid are more numerous, and perhaps more onerous, than those of the valet; for while the latter is aided by the tailor, the hatter, the linen-draper, and the perfumer, the lady's-maid has to originate many parts of the mistress's dress herself: she should, indeed, be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker, a good hairdresser, and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics with which the toilet-table is supplied, in order to use them with safety and effect. Her first duty in the morning, after having performed her own toilet, is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the evening before, either to put them away, or to see that they are all in order to put on again. During the winter, and in wet weather, the dresses should be carefully examined, and the mud removed. Dresses of tweed, and other woollen materials, may be laid out on a table and brushed all over; but in general, even in woollen fabrics, the lightness of the tissues renders brushing unsuitable to dresses, and it is better to remove the dust from the folds by beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thin cloth. Silk dresses should never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece of merino, or other soft material, of a similar colour, kept for the purpose. Summer dresses of barège, muslin, mohair, and other light materials, simply require shaking; but if the muslin be tumbled, it must be ironed afterwards. If the dresses require slight repair, it should be done at once: "a stitch in time saves nine."
2243. The responsibilities of a lady's maid are more extensive, and possibly more challenging, than those of a valet; while the valet has the support of a tailor, hat maker, linen merchant, and perfumer, the lady's maid has to create many aspects of her mistress's outfits herself. She should be a reasonably skilled milliner and dressmaker, a good hairstylist, and have some understanding of the cosmetics on the vanity to use them safely and effectively. Her first task in the morning, after getting herself ready, is to check the clothes her mistress wore the night before, either to store them or ensure they're ready to wear again. In winter and rainy weather, dresses should be carefully inspected, with any mud removed. Tweed and other woolen dresses can be laid out on a table and brushed all over, but generally, even with woolen fabrics, the delicacy of the materials makes brushing unsuitable, and it's better to remove dust from the folds by gently tapping them with a handkerchief or thin cloth. Silk dresses should never be brushed but should be rubbed with a soft piece of fabric, like merino, in a similar color kept for that purpose. Summer dresses made of barège, muslin, mohair, and other light materials just need to be shaken out; however, if the muslin gets wrinkled, it must be ironed afterward. If any dresses need minor repairs, they should be done immediately: “a stitch in time saves nine.”
2244. The bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume, in order to remove every particle of dust; but this has probably been done, as it ought to have been, the night before. Velvet bonnets, and other velvet articles of dress, should be cleaned with a soft brush. If the flowers with which the bonnet is decorated have been crushed or displaced, or the leaves tumbled, they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers. If feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near the fire for a few minutes, and restored to their natural state by the hand or a soft brush.
2244. The bonnet should be gently dusted with a light feather duster to remove all dust particles, but this should have been done properly the night before. Velvet bonnets and other velvet clothing should be cleaned with a soft brush. If the flowers decorating the bonnet are crushed or out of place, or if the leaves are disheveled, they should be lifted and adjusted using flower pliers. If feathers have gotten damp, they should be warmed near the fire for a few minutes and then returned to their natural shape using your hands or a soft brush.
2245. The Chausserie, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the few things left to mark her station, and requires special care. Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush, or wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud wiped off with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its softness and polish. The following is also an excellent polish for applying to ladies' boots, instead of blacking them:—Mix equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz. of lamp-black. When all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the palm of the hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies' blacking, which may be purchased in 6d, and 1s. bottles, is also very much used for patent leather and kid boots, particularly when they are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece of sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking is dry und hardened.
2245. The Chausserie, or footwear for a lady, is one of the few things left to indicate her status and requires special care. Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft brush or wiped with a cloth. Kid or patent leather should have mud wiped off with a sponge dampened with milk, which helps maintain its softness and shine. An excellent alternative polish for ladies' boots, instead of traditional blacking, is to mix equal parts of sweet oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz. of lampblack. Once all the ingredients are well combined, rub the mixture on the boots with your palm and place them in a cool area to dry. Ladies' blacking, available in 6d and 1s bottles, is also commonly used for patent leather and kid boots, especially when they show signs of wear. This blacking is simply applied with a sponge, and the boots should not be worn until the blacking is dry and hardened.
2246. These various preliminary offices performed, the lady's-maid should prepare for dressing her mistress, arranging her dressing-room, toilet-table, and linen, according to her mistress's wishes and habits. The details of dressing we need not touch upon,—every lady has her own mode of doing so; but the maid should move about quietly, perform any offices about her mistress's person, as lacing stays, gently, and adjust her linen smoothly.
2246. After completing these initial tasks, the lady's maid should get ready to dress her mistress, organizing the dressing room, vanity, and linens according to her mistress's preferences and routines. We don't need to go into the specifics of getting dressed—every lady has her own way of doing it—but the maid should work quietly, assist with any tasks related to her mistress’s attire, like lacing stays gently, and smooth out her linens.
2247. Having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire, sweeping the hearth, and made everything ready for dressing her mistress, placed her linen before the fire to air, and laid out the various articles of dress she is to wear, which will probably have been arranged the previous evening, the lady's-maid is prepared for the morning's duties.
2247. After setting up the dressing room by lighting the fire and sweeping the hearth, and getting everything ready to dress her mistress, she placed the linen by the fire to warm up and laid out the different pieces of clothing she was going to wear, which were probably organized the night before. The lady's maid is ready for the morning's tasks.
2248. Hairdressing is the most important part of the lady's-maid's office. If ringlets are worn, remove the curl-papers, and, after thoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below, dress it according to the prevailing fashion. If bandeaux are worn, the hair is thoroughly brushed and frizzed outside and inside, folding the hair back round the head, brushing it perfectly smooth, giving it a glossy appearance by the use of pomades, or oil, applied by the palm of the hand, smoothing it down with a small brush dipped in bandoline. Double bandeaux are formed by bringing most of the hair forward, and rolling it over frizettes made of hair the same colour as that of the wearer: it is finished behind by plaiting the hair, and arranging it in such a manner as to look well with the head-dress.
2248. Hairdressing is the most important part of a lady's maid's duties. If she is wearing ringlets, remove the curl papers, and after thoroughly brushing the back hair both above and below, style it according to the current trend. If bandeaux are being worn, the hair should be brushed and frizzed both outside and inside, then folded back around the head, brushed perfectly smooth, and given a glossy look using pomades or oil applied with the palm of the hand, then smoothed down with a small brush dipped in bandoline. Double bandeaux are created by bringing most of the hair forward and rolling it over frizettes made from hair that matches the wearer's color: it is finished at the back by braiding the hair and arranging it so that it looks good with the headpiece.
2249. Lessons in hairdressing may be obtained, and at not an unreasonable charge. If a lady's-maid can afford it, we would advise her to initiate herself in the mysteries of hairdressing before entering on her duties. If a mistress finds her maid handy, and willing to learn, she will not mind the expense of a few lessons, which are almost necessary, as the fashion and mode of dressing the hair is so continually changing. Brushes and combs should be kept scrupulously clean, by washing them about twice a week: to do this oftener spoils the brushes, as very frequent washing makes them so very soft.
2249. You can take hairdressing lessons at a reasonable price. If a lady's maid can manage it, we suggest she learn the basics of hairdressing before starting her job. If a mistress finds her maid skilled and eager to learn, she won't mind spending a little on a few lessons, which are almost essential, since hair styling trends change so frequently. Brushes and combs should be kept very clean by washing them about twice a week; washing them more often can damage the brushes, as frequent washing makes them too soft.
To wash Brushes.
To clean brushes.
2250. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece the size of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into a basin, and, after combing out the hair from the brushes, dip them, bristles downwards, into the water and out again, keeping the backs and handles as free from the water as possible. Repeat this until the bristles look clean; then rinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake them well, and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, but not the bristles, and set the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the fire; but take care not to put them too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes them soft, as does also the use of soap.
2250. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, using a piece the size of a walnut for each quart of water. Pour the water into a basin, and after combing the hair out of the brushes, dip them bristles down into the water and pull them out again, keeping the backs and handles as dry as possible. Repeat this until the bristles look clean; then rinse the brushes in a little cold water, shake them well, and wipe the handles and backs with a towel, but not the bristles, and set the brushes to dry in the sun or near the fire, but make sure they aren’t too close to it. Wiping the bristles of a brush makes them soft, just like using soap does.
To clean Combs.
To clean combs.
2251. If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often makes the teeth split, and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made, rough. Small brushes, manufactured purposely for cleaning combs, may be purchased at a trifling cost: with this the comb should be well brushed, and afterwards wiped with a cloth or towel.
2251. If possible, never wash combs, because the water can often cause the teeth to split and the tortoiseshell or horn they’re made from to become rough. Small brushes made specifically for cleaning combs can be bought for a small price: use this to brush the comb well, and then wipe it with a cloth or towel.
A good Wash for the Hair.
A good wash for your hair.
2252. INGREDIENTS.—1 pennyworth of borax, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1 pint of boiling water.
2252. INGREDIENTS.—1 pennyworth of borax, 1/2 pint of olive oil, 1 pint of boiling water.
Mode.—Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil; let it cool; then put the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with a flannel. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to cool, make a very good wash for the hair; as also does rosemary-water mixed with a little borax. After using any of these washes, when the hair becomes thoroughly dry, a little pomatum or oil should be rubbed in, to make it smooth and glossy.
Mode.—Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil; let it cool; then put the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with a cloth. Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to cool, create a great hair wash; so does rosemary water mixed with a bit of borax. After using any of these washes, once the hair is completely dry, a little pomade or oil should be rubbed in to make it smooth and shiny.
To make Pomade for the Hair.
To make hair pomade.
2253. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil; scent.
2253. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 lb. of lard, 2 pence worth of castor oil; fragrance.
Mode.—Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well; then add the castor-oil, and mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few drops of any scent that may be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, which keep well covered to prevent it turning rancid.
Mode.—Use unsalted lard; whip it up well; then mix in the castor oil with a knife, adding a few drops of your preferred scent. Transfer the pomade into pots, keeping them well covered to avoid it going rancid.
Another Recipe for Pomatum.
Another Pomatum Recipe.
2254. INGREDIENTS.—8 oz. of olive-oil, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 3 pennyworth of essential oil of almonds, 3 pennyworth of essence of lemon.
2254. INGREDIENTS.—8 oz. of olive oil, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 3 pence worth of almond essential oil, 3 pence worth of lemon essence.
Mode.—Mix these ingredients together, and store away in jars for use.
Mode.—Combine these ingredients and store them in jars for later use.
To make Bandoline.
To make bandoline.
2555. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of gum-tragacanth, 1/4 pint of cold water, 3 pennyworth of essence of almonds, 2 teaspoonfuls of old rum.
2555. INGREDIENTS.—1 oz. of gum tragacanth, 1/4 pint of cold water, 3 pennies worth of almond extract, 2 teaspoons of aged rum.
Mode.—Put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the cold water; let it stand till dissolved, then stir into it the essence of almonds; let it remain for an hour or two, when pour the rum on the top. This should make the stock bottle, and when any is required for use, it is merely necessary to dilute it with a little cold water until the desired consistency is obtained, and to keep it in a small bottle, well corked, for use. This bandoline, instead of injuring the hair, as many other kinds often do, improves it, by increasing its growth, and making it always smooth and glossy.
Mode.—Add the gum tragacanth to a wide-mouthed bottle filled with cold water; let it sit until it dissolves, then stir in the almond essence; allow it to sit for an hour or two, then pour the rum on top. This creates the stock bottle, and when you need to use it, just dilute it with a little cold water until you reach the desired consistency, and store it in a small bottle with a tight cork for use. This bandoline, instead of harming the hair like many other types often do, actually improves it by promoting growth and keeping it smooth and shiny.
An excellent Pomatum.
A great hair pomade.
2256. INGREDIENTS.—1-1/2 lb. of lard, 1/2 pint of olive-oil, 1/2 pint of castor-oil, 4 oz. of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other scent; elder-flower water.
2256. INGREDIENTS.—1 1/2 lb. of lard, 1/2 pint of olive oil, 1/2 pint of castor oil, 4 oz. of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other fragrance; elderflower water.
Mode.—Wash the lard well in the elder-flower water; drain, and beat it to a cream. Mix the two oils together, and heat them sufficiently to dissolve the spermaceti, which should be beaten fine in a mortar. Mix all these ingredients together with the brandy and whatever kind of scent may be preferred; and whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use, keeping them well corked. The best way to liquefy the pomatum is to set the bottle in a saucepan of warm water. It will remain good for many months.
Method.—Wash the lard thoroughly in elder-flower water; drain it, and whip it into a cream. Combine the two oils and heat them enough to dissolve the spermaceti, which should be finely crushed in a mortar. Mix all these ingredients with the brandy and any preferred fragrance; while warm, pour them into glass bottles for use, making sure to keep them well corked. The best way to melt the pomade is to place the bottle in a saucepan of warm water. It will stay good for several months.
To promote the Growth of Hair.
To promote hair growth.
2257. INGREDIENTS.—Equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit of rosemary; a few drops of oil of nutmeg.
2257. INGREDIENTS.—Equal parts of olive oil and rosemary essence; a few drops of nutmeg oil.
Mode.—Mix the ingredients together, rub the roots of the hair every night with a little of this liniment, and the growth of it will very soon sensibly increase.
Mode.—Combine the ingredients, and every night, massage a bit of this liniment into the roots of your hair. You’ll soon notice a significant increase in growth.
2258. Our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some general advice. In putting on a band, see that it is laid quite flat, and is drawn tightly round the waist before it is pinned in front; that the pin is a strong one, and that it is secured to the stays, so as not to slip up or down, or crease in the folds. Arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline petticoats; if the dress fastens behind, put a small pin in the slit to prevent it from opening. See that the sleeves fall well over the arms. If it is finished with a jacket, or other upper dress, see that it fits smoothly under the arms; pull out the flounces, and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with the hands, so that it falls in graceful folds. In arranging the petticoat itself, a careful lady's-maid will see that this is firmly fastened round the waist.
2258. Our additional comments on getting dressed should be limited to some general tips. When putting on a band, make sure it lies flat and is pulled tight around the waist before pinning it in front; use a strong pin and secure it to the stays so it doesn't slide up or down or bunch up in the folds. Arrange the folds of the dress over the crinoline petticoats; if the dress fastens in the back, put a small pin in the slit to keep it from opening. Ensure the sleeves drape nicely over the arms. If it's finished with a jacket or another top layer, make sure it fits smoothly under the arms; pull out the flounces and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with your hands so it falls in elegant folds. While arranging the petticoat itself, a diligent lady's maid will make sure it's securely fastened around the waist.
2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on the inside with a pin, so as not to be visible; then raise the bow with the fingers. The collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with brooch or bow in the centre.
2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on the inside with a pin, so they aren’t visible; then lift the bow with your fingers. The collar is arranged and carefully adjusted with a brooch or bow in the center.
2260. Having dressed her mistress for breakfast, and breakfasted herself, the further duties of the lady's-maid will depend altogether upon the habits of the family, in which hardly two will probably agree. Where the duties are entirely confined to attendance on her mistress, it is probable that the bedroom and dressing-room will be committed to her care; that, the housemaid will rarely enter, except for the weekly or other periodical cleaning; she will, therefore, have to make her mistress's bed, and keep it in order; and as her duties are light and easy, there can be no allowance made for the slightest approach to uncleanliness or want of order. Every morning, immediately after her mistress has left it, and while breakfast is on, she should throw the bed open, by taking off the clothes; open the windows (except in rainy weather), and leave the room to air for half an hour. After breakfast, except her attendance on her mistress prevents it, if the rooms are carpeted, she should sweep them carefully, having previously strewed the room with moist tea-leaves, dusting every table and chair, taking care to penetrate to every corner, and moving every article of furniture that is portable. This done satisfactorily, and having cleaned the dressing-glass, polished up the furniture and the ornaments, and made the glass jug and basin clean and bright, emptied all slops, emptied the water-jugs and filled them with fresh water, and arranged the rooms, the dressing-room is ready for the mistress when she thinks proper to appear.
2260. After getting her mistress ready for breakfast and having breakfast herself, the lady's-maid's further responsibilities will completely depend on the family's habits, which are likely to differ from one another. If her duties are solely focused on her mistress, it's likely that the bedroom and dressing room will be her responsibility; the housemaid will rarely enter, except for the weekly or other scheduled cleaning. Therefore, she will need to make her mistress's bed and keep it tidy. Since her tasks are light and straightforward, there can be no tolerance for even the slightest signs of untidiness or disorder. Every morning, right after her mistress leaves the room and while breakfast is being served, she should open the bed by removing the covers, open the windows (unless it's rainy), and let the room air out for half an hour. After breakfast, unless she’s needed by her mistress, she should sweep the carpeted rooms carefully, having first sprinkled the floor with damp tea leaves, dusting every table and chair, making sure to reach every corner, and moving any portable furniture. Once that is done, she should clean the dressing mirror, polish the furniture and decor, ensure the glass jug and basin are spotless, empty all waste, empty the water jugs and refill them with fresh water, and arrange the rooms. The dressing room will then be ready for the mistress when she decides to come in.
2261. The dressing-room thoroughly in order, the same thing is to be done in the bedroom, in which she will probably be assisted by the housemaid to make the bed and empty the slops. In making the bed, she will study her lady's wishes, whether it is to be hard or soft, sloping or straight, and see that it is done accordingly.
2261. With the dressing room completely tidy, the same needs to be done in the bedroom, where she will likely get help from the housemaid to make the bed and empty the waste. While making the bed, she will pay attention to her lady's preferences, whether it should be firm or soft, sloping or flat, and ensure it is done that way.
2262. Having swept the bedroom with equal care, dusted the tables and chairs, chimney-ornaments, and put away all articles of dress left from yesterday, and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery, her next care is to see, before her mistress goes out, what requires replacing in her department, and furnish her with a list of them, that she may use her discretion about ordering them. All this done, she may settle herself down to any work on which she is engaged. This will consist chiefly in mending; which is first to be seen to; everything, except stockings, being mended before washing. Plain work will probably be one of the lady's-maid's chief employments.
2262. After thoroughly cleaning the bedroom, dusting the tables, chairs, and decorative items on the chimney, putting away all the clothes left over from yesterday, and tidying up any jewelry, her next task is to check what needs restocking in her area before her mistress leaves. She prepares a list for her to decide on ordering those items. Once that’s done, she can focus on whatever work she’s engaged in. This will mainly involve mending, which should be done first; everything, except stockings, should be mended before washing. Plain sewing is likely to be one of the lady's-maid's main tasks.
2263. A waiting-maid, who wishes to make herself useful, will study the fashion-books with attention, so as to be able to aid her mistress's judgment in dressing, according to the prevailing fashion, with such modifications as her style of countenance requires. She will also, if she has her mistress's interest at heart, employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses which have served one purpose, to serve another also, or turning many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger branches of the family. The lady's-maid may thus render herself invaluable to her mistress, and increase her own happiness in so doing. The exigencies of fashion and luxury are such, that all ladies, except those of the very highest rank, will consider themselves fortunate in having about them a thoughtful person, capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose.
2263. A maid who wants to be helpful will pay close attention to fashion magazines so that she can assist her mistress in choosing outfits that match current trends while also taking her face shape into account. If she truly cares about her mistress, she will use her free time to repair or repurpose dresses that have already been worn, or to convert items that aren't suitable for her mistress into something usable for the younger members of the family. In this way, the lady’s maid can become invaluable to her mistress and find joy in her work. Given the demands of fashion and luxury, most women, except those in the highest social circles, will feel lucky to have someone resourceful around to make their fancy clothes more practical.
2264. Among other duties, the lady's-maid should understand the various processes for washing, and cleaning, and repairing laces; edging of collars; removing stains and grease-spots from dresses, and similar processes, for which the following recipes will be found very useful. In washing—
2264. Among other duties, the lady's maid should know the different methods for washing, cleaning, and fixing laces; trimming collars; removing stains and grease spots from dresses, and similar tasks, for which the following recipes will be very helpful. In washing—
2265. Blonde, fine toilet-soap is used; the blonde is soaped over very slightly, and washed in water in which a little fig-blue is dissolved, rubbing it very gently; when clean, dry it. Dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water, dry it again in linen, spread it out as flat as it will lie, and iron it. Where the blonde is of better quality, and wider, it may be stretched on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the gum with a sponge; or it may be washed finally in water in which a lump of sugar has been dissolved, which gives it more the appearance of new blonde.
2265. Blonde, fine toilet soap is used; the blonde is very lightly soaped and then washed in water with a little dissolved fig-blue, rubbing it gently. Once clean, dry it off. Then dip it in very thin gum-water, dry it again with linen, spread it out as flat as possible, and iron it. If the blonde is of better quality and wider, it can be stretched on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the gum with a sponge; or it can be washed at the end in water with a dissolved lump of sugar, which gives it more of a fresh blonde appearance.
2266. Lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with the neck; they are cleaned by beating the edge of the collar between the folds of a fine linen cloth, then washing the edges as directed above, and spreading it out on an ironing-board, pinning it at each corner with fine pins; then going carefully over it with a sponge charged with water in which some gum-dragon and fig-blue have been dissolved, to give it a proper consistence. To give the collar the same tint throughout, the whole collar should be sponged with the same water, taking care not to touch the flowers.
2266. Lace collars get dirty quickly when they touch the neck; to clean them, beat the edge of the collar between the folds of a fine linen cloth, then wash the edges as described above. Spread it out on an ironing board and pin each corner with fine pins. Carefully go over it with a sponge soaked in water mixed with dissolved gum-dragon and fig-blue to achieve the right consistency. To ensure the collar has an even color, sponge the entire collar with the same mixture, being careful not to touch the flowers.
2267. A multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses, which should be removed at once. To remove—
2267. A lot of accidents happen to soil and spot dresses, which should be cleaned immediately. To remove—
2268. Grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials of fast colours, absorbent pastes, purified bullock's-blood, and even common soap, are used, applied to the spot when dry. When the colours are not fast, use fuller's-earth or pulverized potter's-clay, laid in a layer over the spot, and press it with a very hot iron.
2268. Grease spots from cotton or wool fabrics with colorfastness, absorbent pastes, purified bull's blood, and even regular soap are used, applied to the spot when dry. If the colors aren't fast, use fuller's earth or ground potter's clay, apply a layer over the spot, and press it with a very hot iron.
2269. For Silks, Moires, and plain or brocaded Satins, begin by pouring over the spot two drops of rectified spirits of wine; cover it over with a linen cloth, and press it with a hot iron, changing the linen instantly. The spot will look tarnished, for a portion of the grease still remains: this will be removed entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped on the spot, and a very little rubbing. If neatly done, no perceptible mark or circle will remain; nor will the lustre of the richest silk be changed, the union of the two liquids operating with no injurious effects from rubbing.
2269. For silks, moires, and plain or patterned satins, start by pouring two drops of pure alcohol over the stain; cover it with a linen cloth and press it with a hot iron, changing the linen immediately. The stain will look discolored, as some grease will still be present: this will be completely removed with a few drops of sulfuric ether placed on the stain and a little gentle rubbing. If done carefully, there will be no noticeable mark or circle left; plus, the shine of even the finest silk won’t be affected, as the combination of the two liquids works without causing damage from the rubbing.
2270. Fruit-spots are removed from white and fast-coloured cottons by the use of chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping the article, then touch the spot with a hair-pencil or feather dipped in the chloride, dipping it immediately into cold water, to prevent the texture of the article being injured.
2270. Fruit spots can be taken out of white and colorfast cotton fabrics using sodium hypochlorite. Start by washing the item with cold soap, then dab the spot with a hair pencil or feather that's been dipped in the chemical, immediately rinsing it in cold water to avoid damaging the fabric.
2271. Ink-spots are removed, when fresh applied to the spot, by a few drops of hot water being poured on immediately afterwards. By the same process, iron-mould in linen or calico may be removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent injury to the fabric.
2271. Ink spots can be removed when they're fresh by pouring a few drops of hot water on the spot right away. The same method can be used to remove iron stains from linen or cotton by quickly dipping it in cold water to protect the fabric.
2272. Wax dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth dress, is easily discharged by applying spirits of wine.
2272. Wax that drips on a shawl, tablecloth, or fabric dress can be easily removed by using rubbing alcohol.
2273. Syrups or Preserved Fruits, by washing in lukewarm water with a dry cloth, and pressing the spot between two folds of clean linen.
2273. Syrups or Preserved Fruits, by washing in warm water with a dry cloth, and pressing the area between two pieces of clean linen.
2274. Essence of Lemon will remove grease, but will make a spot itself in a few days.
2274. Essence of Lemon will remove grease, but it will leave a spot itself in a few days.
To clean Silk or Ribbons.
To clean silk or ribbons.
2275. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of gin, 1/2 lb. of honey, 1/2 lb. of soft soap, 1/2 pint of water.
2275. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of gin, 1/2 lb. of honey, 1/2 lb. of soft soap, 1/2 pint of water.
Mode.—Mix the above ingredients together; then lay each breadth of silk upon a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub it well on the soiled side with the mixture. Have ready three vessels of cold water; take each piece of silk at two corners, and dip it up and down in each vessel, but do not wring it; and take care that each breadth has one vessel of quite clean water for the last dip. Hang it up dripping for a minute or two, then dab it in a cloth, and iron it quickly with a very hot iron.
Mode.—Combine the ingredients above; then place each piece of silk on a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub the dirty side well with the mixture. Prepare three containers of cold water; lift each piece of silk by two corners and dip it up and down in each container, but do not wring it out; ensure that each piece has one container of completely clean water for the final dip. Hang it up to drip for a minute or two, then blot it with a cloth, and quickly iron it using a very hot iron.
To remove Paint-spots from Silk Cloth.
To remove paint spots from silk fabric.
2276. If the fabric will bear it, sharp rubbing will frequently entirely discharge a newly-made paint-stain; but, if this is not successful, apply spirit of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear.
2276. If the fabric can handle it, rubbing it hard will often completely remove a fresh paint stain; but if that doesn't work, use turpentine with a quill until the stains are gone.
To make old Crape look nearly equal to new.
To make old Crape look almost like new.
2277. Place a little water in a teakettle, and let it boil until there is plenty of steam from the spout; then, holding the crape in both hands, pass it to and fro several times through the steam, and it will to clean and look nearly equal to new.
2277. Put a little water in a kettle and let it boil until there’s a lot of steam coming from the spout. Then, holding the fabric in both hands, move it back and forth a few times through the steam, and it will clean and look almost like new.
2278. Linen.—Before sending linen to wash, the lady's-maid should see that everything under her charge is properly mended; for her own sake she should take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner, each class of garments by themselves, with a proper list, of which she retains a copy. On its return, it is still more necessary to examine every piece separately, so that all missing buttons be supplied, and only the articles properly washed and in perfect repair passed into the wardrobe.
2278. Linen.—Before sending linen to wash, the lady's maid should make sure everything she looks after is properly mended; for her own benefit, she should ensure that it is sent out in an organized way, with each type of garment kept separately and accompanied by a proper list, of which she keeps a copy. Upon its return, it’s even more important to check each piece individually, so that any missing buttons can be replaced, and only the items that have been properly washed and are in perfect condition are put back into the wardrobe.
2279. Ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in the habit of paying visits to their friends, in which it is not unusual for the maid to accompany them; at all events, it is her duty to pack the trunks; and this requires not only knowledge but some practice, although the improved trunks and portmanteaus now made, in which there is a place for nearly everything, render this more simple than formerly. Before packing, let the trunks be thoroughly well cleaned, and, if necessary, lined with paper, and everything intended for packing laid out on the bed or chairs, so that it may be seen what is to be stowed away; the nicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers. Having satisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out, and that it is in perfect order, the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulky articles, the dressing-case and work-box, skirts, and other articles requiring room, leaving the smaller articles to fill up; finally, having satisfied herself that all is included, she should lock and cover up the trunk in its canvas case, and then pack her own box, if she is to accompany her mistress.
2279. Women who have a maid to assist them often visit their friends, and it’s common for the maid to join them. Regardless, it’s her job to pack the bags, which requires both skill and practice, although the newer bags and suitcases made today, which have designated spaces for almost everything, make this task easier than it used to be. Before packing, the suitcases should be thoroughly cleaned and, if needed, lined with paper. Everything that needs to be packed should be laid out on the bed or chairs so that it’s easy to see what will be stored away, with delicate clothing neatly folded in clean cotton wraps. Once she confirms that everything needed is prepared and in perfect order, she should start by arranging the bulkier items first, such as the makeup case, sewing kit, skirts, and other larger items, leaving the smaller items to fill in the gaps. Finally, after ensuring that everything is included, she should lock and cover the suitcase with its canvas case, and then pack her own bag if she will be traveling with her mistress.
2280. On reaching the house, the lady's-maid will be shown her lady's apartment; and her duties here are what they were at home; she will arrange her mistress's things, and learn which is her bell, in order to go to her when she rings. Her meals will be taken in the housekeeper's room; and here she must be discreet and guarded in her talk to any one of her mistress or her concerns. Her only occupation here will be attending in her lady's room, keeping her things in order, and making her rooms comfortable for her.
2280. Upon arriving at the house, the maid will be shown to her lady's room; and her responsibilities here will be the same as they were at home. She will organize her mistress's belongings and find out which bell is hers so she can go to her when summoned. She will eat in the housekeeper's room, and she must be careful and thoughtful in her conversations about her mistress or her affairs. Her main tasks here will be to attend to her lady in her room, keep her belongings tidy, and ensure her rooms are comfortable.
2281. The evening duties of a lady's-maid are pretty nearly a repetition of those of the morning. She is in attendance when her mistress retires; she assists her to undress if required, brushes her hair, and renders such other assistance as is demanded; removes all slops; takes care that the fire, if any, is safe, before she retires to rest herself.
2281. The evening responsibilities of a lady's maid are pretty much the same as those of the morning. She is there when her mistress goes to bed; she helps her get undressed if needed, brushes her hair, and provides any other help that’s required; she clears away any mess; and she makes sure that the fire, if there is one, is safe before she goes to bed herself.
2282. Ironing is a part of the duties of a lady's-maid, and she should be able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary. Ironing is often badly done from inattention to a few very simple requirements. Cleanliness is the first essential: the ironing-board, the fire, the iron, and the ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean. It will not be necessary here to enter into details on ironing, as full directions are given in the "Duties of the Laundry-maid." A lady's-maid will have a great deal of "Ironing-out" to do; such as light evening dresses, muslin dresses, &c., which are not dirty enough to be washed, but merely require smoothing out to remove the creases. In summer, particularly, an iron will be constantly required, as also a skirt-board, which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel. To keep muslin dresses in order, they almost require smoothing out every time they are worn, particularly if made with many flounces. The lady's-maid may often have to perform little services for her mistress which require care; such as restoring the colour to scorched linen, &c. &c. The following recipe is, we believe, a very good one.
2282. Ironing is part of a lady's maid's duties, and she should be able to do it perfectly when needed. Ironing is often done poorly due to neglecting a few very simple requirements. Cleanliness is the most important: the ironing board, the heat source, the iron, and the ironing blanket should all be spotless. It’s unnecessary to go into detail about ironing here, as full instructions are provided in the "Duties of the Laundry-maid." A lady's maid will have a lot of "ironing out" to do, such as for light evening dresses, muslin dresses, etc., which aren’t dirty enough to be washed but just need to be smoothed out to eliminate creases. In summer especially, an iron will be needed constantly, as well as a skirt board, which should be covered with a nice clean piece of flannel. To keep muslin dresses looking good, they often need to be smoothed out every time they're worn, especially if they have many flounces. The lady's maid may also have to do small tasks for her mistress that require care, like restoring the color to scorched linen, etc. The following recipe is considered to be very effective.
To restore Whiteness to scorched Linen.
To bring back the whiteness of burned linen.
2283. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller's-earth, 1 oz. of dried fowls' dung, 1/2 oz. of soap, the juice of 2 large onions.
2283. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller's earth, 1 oz. of dried chicken manure, 1/2 oz. of soap, the juice of 2 large onions.
Mode.—Boil all these ingredients together to the consistency of paste; spread the composition thickly over the damaged part, and if the threads be not actually consumed, after it has been allowed to dry on, and the place has subsequently been washed once or twice, every trace of scorching will disappear.
Mode.—Boil all these ingredients together until it thickens to a paste; apply the mixture generously over the damaged area, and if the threads aren't completely burned, after it dries, and the area is washed once or twice, all signs of scorching will vanish.
2284. Furs, Feathers, and Woollens require the constant care of the waiting-maid. Furs and feathers not in constant use should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye. From May to September they are subject to being made the depositary of the moth-eggs. They should be looked too, and shaken and beaten, from time to time, in case some of the eggs should have been lodged in them, in spite of every precaution; laying them up again, or rather folding them up as before, wrapping them in brown paper, which is itself a preservative. Shawls and cloaks, which would be damaged by such close folds, must be looked to, and aired and beaten, putting them away dry before the evening.
2284. Furs, Feathers, and Woollens require constant care from the maid. Furs and feathers not in regular use should be wrapped in linen that has been washed in lye. From May to September, they can become a place for moth eggs. They should be checked, shaken, and beaten occasionally, in case any eggs have settled in them despite precautions; then laid away again, or rather folded as they were before, wrapped in brown paper, which helps to preserve them. Shawls and cloaks, which can be damaged by tight folding, must also be checked, aired, and beaten, and stored dry before the evening.
Preservatives against the Ravages of Moths.
Preservatives against the Damage Caused by Moths.
2285. Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather, tobacco-leaves, bog-myrtle, or anything else strongly aromatic, in the drawers or boxes where furs or other things to be preserved from moths are kept, and they will never take harm.
2285. Put pieces of camphor, cedar wood, Russian leather, tobacco leaves, bog myrtle, or any other strong-smelling items in the drawers or boxes where furs or other things you want to protect from moths are stored, and they will stay safe.
2286. Jewels are generally wrapped up in cotton, and kept in their cases; but they are subject to tarnish from exposure to the air, and require cleaning. This is done by preparing clean soap-suds, using fine toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold, silver, gilt, or precious stones into this lye, and dry them by brushing with a brush of soft badgers' hair, or a fine sponge; afterwards with a piece of fine cloth, and, lastly, with a soft leather.
2286. Jewels are usually wrapped in cotton and stored in their cases; however, they can tarnish when exposed to air and need cleaning. This is done by making clean soapy water with fine toilet soap. Dip any gold, silver, gold-plated item, or precious stones into this solution, then dry them by brushing with a soft badger hair brush or a fine sponge; next, use a piece of fine cloth, and finally, a soft leather.
2287. Epaulettes of gold or silver, and, in general, all articles of jewellery, may be dressed by dipping them in spirits of wine warmed in a bain marie, or shallow kettle, placed over a slow fire or hot-plate.
2287. Epaulettes made of gold or silver, and generally all kinds of jewelry, can be cleaned by dipping them in warm wine spirits using a bain marie or a shallow pot over a low flame or hot plate.
2288. The valet and lady's-maid, from their supposed influence with their master and mistress, are exposed to some temptations to which other servants are less subjected. They are probably in communication with the tradespeople who supply articles for the toilet; such as batters, tailors, dressmakers, and perfumers. The conduct of waiting-maid and valet to these people should be civil but independent, making reasonable allowance for want of exact punctuality, if any such can be made: they should represent any inconvenience respectfully, and if an excuse seems unreasonable, put the matter fairly to master or mistress, leaving it to them to notice it further, if they think it necessary. No expectations of a personal character should influence them one way or the other. It would be acting unreasonably to any domestic to make them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them; the utmost that can be expected is that they should not influence their judgment in the articles supplied—that they should represent them truly to master or mistress, without fear and without favour. Civility to all, servility to none, is a good maxim for every one. Deference to a master and mistress, and to their friends and visitors, is one of the implied terms of their engagement; and this deference must apply even to what may be considered their whims. A servant is not to be seated, or wear a hat in the house, in his master's or mistress's presence; nor offer any opinion, unless asked for it; nor even to say "good night," or "good morning," except in reply to that salutation.
2288. The valet and lady's maid, because of their perceived influence with their boss and boss's wife, face some temptations that other staff don’t. They likely interact with the vendors who provide items for personal grooming, like bakers, tailors, dressmakers, and perfumers. The behavior of the lady's maid and valet towards these vendors should be polite but independent, allowing for some leniency when it comes to punctuality, if possible: they should mention any issues respectfully, and if an excuse seems unreasonable, they should address it directly with the boss, leaving it up to them to take further action if they feel it’s necessary. Neither personal expectations nor favors should sway their decisions. It would be unreasonable to expect any servant to refuse gifts from vendors; the most that can be expected is that these gifts do not influence their judgment about the items provided—that they should report them accurately to the boss, without fear or favoritism. Civility to everyone and servility to none is a good principle for all. Respecting the boss and their friends and guests is part of their job; this respect even extends to what might seem like their quirks. A servant shouldn’t sit down or wear a hat inside the house in front of the boss or their spouse, should not offer opinions unless asked, and should only say "good night" or "good morning" in response to those greetings.
To preserve cut Flowers.
To preserve cut flowers.
2289. A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive for a long time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water, in which a little charcoal has been steeped, or a small piece of camphor dissolved. The vase should be set upon a plate or dish, and covered with a bell-glass, around the edges of which, when it comes in contact with the plate, a little water should be poured to exclude the air.
2289. A bouquet of fresh flowers can stay alive for a long time by putting them in a glass or vase filled with fresh water, where a bit of charcoal has been soaked, or a small piece of camphor has been dissolved. The vase should be placed on a plate or dish and covered with a glass dome. Around the edges, where the dome touches the plate, some water should be added to keep the air out.
To revive cut Flowers after packing.
To revive cut flowers after being packed.
2290. Plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the time the water is cold, the flowers will have revived. Then cut afresh the ends of the stems, and keep them in fresh cold water.
2290. Put the stems in boiling water, and by the time the water cools down, the flowers will have perked up. Then cut the ends of the stems again and keep them in fresh cold water.
UPPER AND UNDER HOUSEMAIDS.
2291. Housemaids, in large establishments, have usually one or more assistants; in this case they are upper and under housemaids. Dividing the work between them, the upper housemaid will probably reserve for herself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture of the principal apartments, but it is her duty to see that every department is properly attended to. The number of assistants depends on the number in the family, as well as on the style in which the establishment is kept up. In wealthy families it is not unusual for every grown-up daughter to have her waiting-maid, whose duty it is to keep her mistress's apartments in order, thus abridging the housemaid's duties. In others, perhaps, one waiting-maid attends on two or three, when the housemaid's assistance will be more requisite. In fact, every establishment has some customs peculiar to itself, on which we need not dwell; the general duties are the same in all, perfect cleanliness and order being the object.
2291. In large households, housemaids typically have one or more helpers; in this case, they are referred to as upper and under housemaids. By dividing the tasks, the upper housemaid will likely take on the responsibilities of dusting decorations and cleaning the furniture in the main living areas, but it's her job to ensure that all areas are properly taken care of. The number of assistants varies based on the size of the family and the standard of living in the household. In wealthy families, it’s common for each adult daughter to have her own maid, who is responsible for maintaining her rooms, which reduces the housemaid's workload. In some cases, a single maid might serve two or three daughters, making the housemaid's help more necessary. Ultimately, each household has its own unique practices, but the general duties are the same in all, with the aim being complete cleanliness and order.
DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.
2292. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," saith the proverb, and "order" is in the next degree; the housemaid, then, may be said to be the handmaiden to two of the most prominent virtues. Her duties are very numerous, and many of the comforts of the family depend on their performance; but they are simple and easy to a person naturally clean and orderly, and desirous of giving satisfaction. In all families, whatever the habits of the master and mistress, servants will find it advantageous to rise early; their daily work will thus come easy to them. If they rise late, there is a struggle to overtake it, which throws an air of haste and hurry over the whole establishment. Where the master's time is regulated by early business or professional engagements, this will, of course, regulate the hours of the servants; but even where that is not the case, servants will find great personal convenience in rising early and getting through their work in an orderly and methodical manner. The housemaid who studies her own ease will certainly be at her work by six o'clock in the summer, and, probably, half-past six or seven in the winter months, having spent a reasonable time in her own chamber in dressing. Earlier than this would, probably, be an unnecessary waste of coals and candle in winter.
2292. "Cleanliness is close to godliness," says the proverb, and "order" is next in line; therefore, the housemaid can be considered a servant to two of the most important virtues. Her tasks are many, and a lot of the family's comforts rely on how well she does them; however, they are straightforward and easy for someone who is naturally clean, orderly, and eager to please. In every household, regardless of the habits of the master and mistress, it benefits servants to wake up early; this way, their daily tasks will come to them easily. If they wake up late, they struggle to catch up, which creates a sense of rush and disarray throughout the entire home. When the master has early business or professional commitments, that naturally sets the schedule for the servants; but even when that's not the case, servants will find it much more convenient to get up early and tackle their responsibilities in an organized and systematic way. The housemaid who cares for her own comfort will surely be at her work by six o'clock in the summer, and likely by half-past six or seven in the winter months, having taken a reasonable amount of time to dress in her own room. Getting up any earlier would probably waste coal and candlelight during winter.
2293. The first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters of all the lower rooms in the house, and take up the hearth-rugs of those rooms which she is going to "do" before breakfast. In some families, where there is only a cook and housemaid kept, and where the drawing-rooms are large, the cook has the care of the dining-room, and the housemaid that of the breakfast-room, library, and drawing-rooms. After the shutters are all opened, she sweeps the breakfast-room, sweeping the dust towards the fire-place, of course previously removing the fonder. She should then lay a cloth (generally made of coarse wrappering) over the carpet in front of the stove, and on this should place her housemaid's box, containing black-lead brushes, leathers, emery-paper, cloth, black lead, and all utensils necessary for cleaning a grate, with the cinder-pail on the other side.
2293. The first job of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters in all the lower rooms of the house and take up the hearth rugs in the rooms she's going to clean before breakfast. In some families, where there's just a cook and a housemaid, and the drawing rooms are spacious, the cook takes care of the dining room while the housemaid looks after the breakfast room, library, and drawing rooms. After opening all the shutters, she sweeps the breakfast room, pushing the dust toward the fireplace, of course removing the fonder first. She should then lay a cloth (usually made of coarse wrapping) over the carpet in front of the stove and place her housemaid's box on it, which contains black-lead brushes, rags, emery paper, cloth, black lead, and all the tools needed for cleaning a grate, with the cinder pail on the other side.
[Illustration: CARPET-BROOMS.]
[Illustration: Carpet sweepers.]
2294. She now sweeps up the ashes, and deposits them in her cinder-pail, which is a japanned tin pail, with a wire-sifter inside, and a closely-fitting top. In this pail the cinders are sifted, and reserved for use in the kitchen or under the copper, the ashes only being thrown away. The cinders disposed of, she proceeds to black-lead the grate, producing the black lead, the soft brush for laying it on, her blacking and polishing brushes, from the box which contains her tools. This housemaid's box should be kept well stocked. Having blackened, brushed, and polished every part, and made all clean and bright, she now proceeds to lay the fire. Sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper polish to black grates, particularly if they have been neglected, and allowed to rust at all. Brunswick black, which is an excellent varnish for grates, may be prepared in the following manner:—
2294. She now sweeps up the ashes and puts them in her cinder pail, which is a painted tin bucket with a wire sifter inside and a snug-fitting lid. In this pail, the cinders are filtered and saved for use in the kitchen or beneath the kettle, while the ashes are thrown away. Once the cinders are taken care of, she goes on to apply black lead to the grate, taking out the black lead, the soft brush for applying it, and her polishing brushes from the box that holds her tools. This housemaid's toolbox should always be well stocked. After she has blackened, brushed, and polished every part, making everything clean and shiny, she gets ready to lay the fire. Sometimes it can be really tough to get a good shine on black grates, especially if they’ve been neglected and allowed to rust. Brunswick black, which works great as a varnish for grates, can be made as follows:—
[Illustration: STOVE BRUSHES.]
[Illustration: Stove Brushes.]
[Illustration: HOUSEMAID'S BOX.]
[Illustration: MAID'S BOX.]
2295. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of common asphaltum, 1/2 pint of linseed oil, 1 quart of oil of turpentine.
2295. INGREDIENTS.—1 lb. of regular asphalt, 1/2 pint of linseed oil, 1 quart of turpentine.
Mode.—Melt the asphaltum, and add gradually to it the other two ingredients. Apply this with a small painter's brush, and leave it to become perfectly dry. The grate will need no other cleaning, but will merely require dusting every day, and occasionally brushing with a dry black-lead brush. This is, of course, when no fires are used. When they are required, the bars, cheeks, and back of the grate will need black-leading in the usual manner.
Mode.—Melt the asphaltum, and gradually mix in the other two ingredients. Use a small painter's brush to apply this, then let it dry completely. The grate won’t need any other cleaning, just a daily dusting and occasional brushing with a dry black-lead brush. This is, of course, when no fires are used. When fires are necessary, the bars, cheeks, and back of the grate will need to be treated with black lead in the usual way.
2296. Fire-lighting, however simple, is an operation requiring some skill; a fire is readily made by laying a few cinders at the bottom in open order; over this a few pieces of paper, and over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood; over the wood, a course of moderate-sized pieces of coal, taking care to leave hollow spaces between for air at the centre; and taking care to lay the whole well back in the grate, so that the smoke may go up the chimney, and not into the room. This done, fire the paper with a match from below, and, if properly laid, it will soon burn up; the stream of flame from the wood and paper soon communicating to the coals and cinders, provided there is plenty of air at the centre.
2296. Fire-lighting, no matter how simple, requires some skill; you can easily start a fire by placing a few cinders at the bottom in a loose arrangement. On top of this, lay a few pieces of paper, and then stack eight or ten pieces of dry wood above that. Next, add a layer of moderately sized pieces of coal, making sure to leave gaps in the center for air circulation. Also, ensure everything is pushed back well in the grate so that the smoke goes up the chimney and not into the room. Once that's set up, light the paper with a match from below, and if everything is arranged properly, it will quickly catch fire. The flames from the wood and paper will soon spread to the coals and cinders, as long as there's plenty of air in the center.
2297. A new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised with advantage, the fire lighting from the top and burning down, in place of being lighted and burning up from below. This is arranged by laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few good-sized cinders, and the wood at the top, with another layer of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lighted in the usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with some economy of fuel, as is said.
2297. A new method of starting a fire is sometimes used effectively, where the fire is ignited from the top and burns down instead of being started from the bottom and burning up. This is done by placing the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few larger cinders, and putting the wood on top, along with another layer of coals and some paper over it; the paper is lit in the usual way, and it quickly burns down to create a good fire, reportedly using less fuel.
2298. Bright grates require unceasing attention to keep them in perfect order. A day should never pass without the housemaid rubbing with a dry leather the polished parts of a grate, as also the fender and fire-irons. A careful and attentive housemaid should have no occasion ever to use emery-paper for any part but the bars, which, of course, become blackened by the fire. (Some mistresses, to save labour, have a double set of bars, one set bright for the summer, and another black set to use when fires are in requisition.) When bright grates are once neglected, small rust-spots begin to show themselves, which a plain leather will not remove; the following method of cleaning them must then be resorted to:—First, thoroughly clean with emery-paper; then take a large smooth pebble from the road, sufficiently large to hold comfortably in the hand, with which rub the steel backwards and forwards one way, until the desired polish is obtained. It may appear at first to scratch, but continue rubbing, and the result will be success. The following is also an excellent polish for bright stoves and steel articles:—
2298. Bright grates need constant attention to keep them in top shape. No day should go by without the housemaid polishing the shiny parts of the grate with a dry leather cloth, as well as the fender and fire-irons. A careful and dedicated housemaid shouldn't need to use emery paper on anything except the bars, which obviously get blackened by the fire. (Some mistresses, to save on work, have two sets of bars: one shiny for summer and another black set for when the fires are lit.) Once bright grates are neglected, small rust spots start to appear, which a plain leather cloth won't remove. In that case, the following cleaning method should be used: First, clean thoroughly with emery paper; then, take a large smooth pebble from the road, big enough to hold comfortably in your hand, and rub the steel back and forth in one direction until you get the desired shine. It might seem to scratch at first, but keep rubbing, and you'll achieve success. The following is also a great polish for bright stoves and steel items:—
2299. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoonful of turpentine, 1 ditto of sweet oil, emery powder.
2299. INGREDIENTS.—1 tablespoon of turpentine, 1 tablespoon of sweet oil, emery powder.
Mode.—Mix the turpentine and sweet oil together, stirring in sufficient emery powder to make the mixture of the thickness of cream. Put it on the article with a piece of soft flannel, rub off quickly with another piece, then polish with a little dry emery powder and clean leather.
Mode.—Combine turpentine and sweet oil, adding enough emery powder to achieve a creamy consistency. Apply the mixture to the item using a piece of soft flannel, then quickly wipe it off with another piece. Finally, polish with a bit of dry emery powder and clean leather.
2300. The several fires lighted, the housemaid proceeds with her dusting, and polishing the several pieces of furniture in the breakfast-parlour, leaving no corner unvisited. Before sweeping the carpet, it is a good practice to sprinkle it all over with tea-leaves, which not only lay all dust, but give a slightly fragrant smell to the room. It is now in order for the reception of the family; and where there is neither footman nor parlour-maid, she now proceeds to the dressing-room, and lights her mistress's fire, if she is in the habit of having one to dress by. Her mistress is called, hot water placed in the dressing-room for her use, her clothes—as far as they are under the house-maid's charge—put before the fire to air, hanging a fire-guard on the bars where there is one, while she proceeds to prepare the breakfast.
2300. With the fires lit, the housemaid gets to work dusting and polishing the various pieces of furniture in the breakfast room, making sure not to miss any corner. Before she sweeps the carpet, it’s a good idea to sprinkle it with tea leaves, which not only settle the dust but also add a pleasant smell to the room. It's now ready to welcome the family. If there's no footman or parlor maid, she moves to the dressing room and lights her mistress's fire, if she usually has one to get ready by. She calls for her mistress, sets hot water in the dressing room for her use, and puts her clothes—within the housemaid's care—before the fire to air, placing a fire guard on the bars if there is one, while she goes to prepare breakfast.
2301. In summer the housemaid's work is considerably abridged: she throws open the windows of the several rooms not occupied as bedrooms, that they may receive the fresh morning air before they are occupied; she prepares the breakfast-room by sweeping the carpet, rubbing tables and chairs, dusting mantel-shelf and picture-frames with a light brush, dusting the furniture, and beating and sweeping the rug; she cleans the grate when necessary, and replaces the white paper or arranges the shavings with which it is filled, leaving everything clean and tidy for breakfast. It is not enough, however, in cleaning furniture, just to pass lightly over the surface; the rims and legs of tables, and the backs and legs of chairs and sofas, should be rubbed vigorously daily; if there is a book-case, every corner of every pane and ledge requires to be carefully wiped, so that not a speck of dust can be found in the room.
2301. In the summer, the housemaid's work is significantly reduced: she opens the windows in the non-bedroom areas to let in the fresh morning air before they are used; she gets the breakfast room ready by sweeping the carpet, wiping down tables and chairs, dusting the mantelpiece and picture frames with a light brush, cleaning the furniture, and beating and sweeping the rug. She cleans the fireplace when needed and changes the white paper or arranges the shavings that fill it, ensuring everything is clean and tidy for breakfast. However, when it comes to cleaning furniture, simply dusting the surface isn't enough; the edges and legs of tables, as well as the backs and legs of chairs and sofas, should be vigorously wiped down every day. If there’s a bookcase, every corner of each pane and ledge must be thoroughly cleaned so that not a speck of dust remains in the room.
2302. After the breakfast-room is finished, the housemaid should proceed to sweep down the stairs, commencing at the top, whilst the cook has the charge of the hall, door-step, and passages. After this she should go into the drawing-room, cover up every article of furniture that is likely to spoil, with large dusting-sheets, and put the chairs together, by turning them seat to seat, and, in fact, make as much room as possible, by placing all the loose furniture in the middle of the room, whilst she sweeps the corners and sides. When this is accomplished, the furniture can then be put back in its place, and the middle of the room swept, sweeping the dirt, as before said, towards the fireplace. The same rules should be observed in cleaning the drawing-room grates as we have just stated, putting down the cloth, before commencing, to prevent the carpet from getting soiled. In the country, a room would not require sweeping thoroughly like this more than twice a week; but the housemaid should go over it every morning with a dust-pan and broom, taking up every crumb and piece she may see. After the sweeping she should leave the room, shut the door, and proceed to lay the breakfast. Where there is neither footman nor parlour-maid kept, the duty of laying the breakfast-cloth rests on the housemaid.
2302. Once the breakfast room is done, the housemaid should start sweeping the stairs, beginning at the top, while the cook handles the hall, doorstep, and hallways. After that, she should go into the drawing room, cover all the furniture that could get damaged with large dust sheets, and arrange the chairs by placing them seat to seat. Essentially, she should create as much space as possible by moving all the loose furniture to the center of the room while she sweeps the edges and corners. Once that’s done, the furniture can be put back in its place, and the middle of the room swept clean, directing the dirt towards the fireplace as mentioned before. The same cleaning procedures should be followed for the drawing-room grates as previously described, laying down a cloth first to protect the carpet from stains. In the country, a room wouldn’t need a thorough sweeping like this more than twice a week; however, the housemaid should go over it every morning with a dustpan and broom, picking up every crumb and piece she spots. After sweeping, she should exit the room, close the door, and proceed to set the breakfast table. If there’s no footman or parlor maid, laying the breakfast cloth falls to the housemaid.
[Illustration: BANISTER-BROOM.]
[Illustration: BANISTER-BROOM.]
[Illustration: STAIRCASE-BROOM.]
[Illustration: STAIRCASE-BROOM.]
2303. Before laying the cloth for breakfast, the heater of the tea-urn is to be placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire; or, where the kettle is used, boiled on the kitchen fire, and then removed to the parlour, where it is kept hot. Having washed herself free from the dust arising from the morning's work, the housemaid collects the breakfast-things on her tray, takes the breakfast-cloth from the napkin press, and carries them all on the tray into the parlour; arranges them on the table, placing a sufficiency of knives, forks, and salt-cellars for the family, and takes the tray back to the pantry; gets a supply of milk, cream, and bread; fills the butter-dish, taking care that the salt is plentiful, and soft and dry, and that hot plates and egg-cups are ready where warm meat or eggs are served, and that butter-knife and bread-knife are in their places. And now she should give the signal for breakfast, holding herself ready to fill the urn with hot water, or hand the kettle, and take in the rolls, toast, and other eatables, with which the cook supplies her, when the breakfast-room bell rings; bearing in mind that she is never to enter the parlour with dirty hands or with a dirty apron, and that everything is to be handed on a tray; that she is to hand everything she may be required to supply, on the left hand of the person she is serving, and that all is done quietly and without bustle or hurry. In some families, where there is a large number to attend on, the cook waits at breakfast whilst the housemaid is busy upstairs in the bedrooms, or sweeping, dusting, and putting the drawing-room in order.
2303. Before setting the table for breakfast, the tea-urn heater should be placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire; or, if using a kettle, it should be boiled over the kitchen fire and then moved to the parlor to keep warm. After washing off the morning's dust, the housemaid gathers the breakfast items on her tray, takes the tablecloth from the napkin press, and carries everything to the parlor. She arranges the items on the table, ensuring there are enough knives, forks, and salt shakers for the family, then takes the tray back to the pantry. She collects milk, cream, and bread; fills the butter dish while making sure the salt is plentiful, soft, and dry; and confirms that hot plates and egg cups are ready for warm meat or eggs, along with the butter knife and bread knife in their proper places. Now she should signal for breakfast, being prepared to fill the urn with hot water, pass the kettle, and bring in the rolls, toast, and other food that the cook provides when the breakfast-room bell rings. She must remember never to enter the parlor with dirty hands or an unclean apron, and everything should be served on a tray. She should pass everything she provides on the left side of the person she is serving, and all actions should be done quietly and without fuss. In some households with many guests, the cook will wait at breakfast while the housemaid attends to tasks upstairs in the bedrooms or sweeps, dusts, and tidies up the drawing room.
2304. Breakfast served, the housemaid proceeds to the bed-chambers, throws up the sashes, if not already done, pulls up the blinds, throwing back curtains at the same time, and opens the beds, by removing the clothes, placing them over a horse, or, failing that, over the backs of chairs. She now proceeds to empty the slops. In doing this, everything is emptied into the slop-pail, leaving a little scalding-hot water for a minute in such vessels as require it; adding a drop of turpentine to the water, when that is not sufficient to cleanse them. The basin is emptied, well rinsed with clean water, and carefully wiped; the ewers emptied and washed; finally, the water-jugs themselves emptied out and rinsed, and wiped dry. As soon as this is done, she should remove and empty the pails, taking care that they also are well washed, scalded, and wiped as soon as they are empty.
2304. After breakfast is served, the housemaid goes to the bedrooms, opens the windows if they aren’t already, pulls up the blinds, throws back the curtains, and makes the beds by taking off the covers and placing them over a bed rack or, if that’s not available, over the backs of chairs. Next, she empties the slop buckets. In doing this, everything goes into the slop pail, leaving a little scalding-hot water in containers that need it; she adds a drop of turpentine if that’s not enough to clean them. The basin is emptied, rinsed well with clean water, and wiped dry; the ewers are emptied and washed; finally, the water jugs are emptied, rinsed, and wiped dry. Once that’s done, she should also remove and empty the pails, making sure they are well washed, scalded, and wiped as soon as they are empty.
2305. Next follows bedmaking, at which the cook or kitchen-maid, where one is kept, usually assists; but, before beginning, velvet chairs, or other things injured by dust, should be removed to another room. In bedmaking, the fancy of its occupant should be consulted; some like beds sloping from the top towards the feet, swelling slightly in the middle; others, perfectly flat: a good housemaid will accommodate each bed to the taste of the sleeper, taking care to shake, beat, and turn it well in the process. Some persons prefer sleeping on the mattress; in which case a feather bed is usually beneath, resting on a second mattress, and a straw paillasse at the bottom. In this case, the mattresses should change places daily; the feather bed placed on the mattress shaken, beaten, taken up and opened several times, so as thoroughly to separate the feathers: if too large to be thus handled, the maid should shake and beat one end first, and then the other, smoothing it afterwards equally all over into the required shape, and place the mattress gently over it. Any feathers which escape in this process a tidy servant will put back through the seam of the tick; she will also be careful to sew up any stitch that gives way the moment it is discovered. The bedclothes are laid on, beginning with an under blanket and sheet, which are tucked under the mattress at the bottom. The bolster is then beaten and shaken, and put on, the top of the sheet rolled round it, and the sheet tucked in all round. The pillows and other bedclothes follow, and the counterpane over all, which should fall in graceful folds, and at equal distance from the ground all round. The curtains are drawn to the head and folded neatly across the bed, and the whole finished in a smooth and graceful manner. Where spring-mattresses are used, care should be taken that the top one is turned every day. The housemaid should now take up in a dustpan any pieces that may be on the carpet; she should dust the room, shut the door, and proceed to another room. When all the bedrooms are finished, she should dust the stairs, and polish the handrail of the banisters, and see that all ledges, window-sills, &c., are quite free from dust. It will be necessary for the housemaid to divide her work, so that she may not have too much to do on certain days, and not sufficient to fill up her time on other days. In the country, bedrooms should be swept and thoroughly cleaned once a week; and to be methodical and regular in her work, the housemaid should have certain days for doing certain rooms thoroughly. For instance, the drawing-room on Monday, two bedrooms on Tuesday, two on Wednesday, and so on, reserving a day for thoroughly cleaning the plate, bedroom candlesticks, &c. &c., which she will have to do where there is no parlour-maid or footman kept. By this means the work will be divided, and there will be no unnecessary bustling and hurrying, as is the case where the work is done any time, without rule or regulation.
2305. Next comes bedmaking, where the cook or kitchen maid, if there is one, usually helps out. However, before starting, velvet chairs or other items that collect dust should be moved to another room. When making the bed, the preferences of the person sleeping in it should be considered; some prefer their beds to slope from the top down to the feet, with a slight curve in the middle; others like them perfectly flat. A good housemaid will adjust each bed according to the sleeper's taste, making sure to shake, beat, and turn it properly during the process. Some people like to sleep directly on the mattress, in which case there’s usually a feather bed underneath, resting on a second mattress, and a straw paillasse at the bottom. In this scenario, the mattresses should be swapped every day; the feather bed goes on top of the shaken mattress, and it should be lifted and opened several times to separate the feathers thoroughly. If it’s too large to handle easily, the maid should shake and beat one end first and then the other, smoothing it out evenly to the desired shape before gently placing the mattress on top. Any feathers that escape should be tucked back through the seam of the cover by a tidy servant, who will also sew up any stitches that break as soon as they notice. The bedclothes are then laid on, starting with an under blanket and sheet, which should be tucked under the mattress at the bottom. The bolster is then shaken and beaten before being placed on the bed, the top of the sheet rolled around it, and the sheet tucked in all around. The pillows and other bedclothes follow, with the counterpane spread over everything, falling in graceful folds and at an equal distance from the ground all around. The curtains are pulled to the head of the bed and folded neatly across it, with everything finished in a smooth and elegant manner. For spring mattresses, it’s important to turn the top one every day. The housemaid should then use a dustpan to collect any debris on the carpet, dust the room, close the door, and move on to another room. Once all the bedrooms are done, she should dust the stairs, polish the handrail of the banisters, and ensure that all ledges, window sills, etc., are spotless. The housemaid will need to organize her tasks so she doesn't have too much to do on some days and too little on others. In the countryside, bedrooms should be swept and cleaned thoroughly once a week. To be systematic and organized, the housemaid should assign certain days for deep cleaning specific rooms. For example, the drawing-room on Monday, two bedrooms on Tuesday, two on Wednesday, and so forth, reserving a day for cleaning items like silverware and bedroom candlesticks, which she will have to do if there’s no parlour maid or footman. This way, the workload is balanced, preventing unnecessary rushing and chaos that happens when tasks are done at random without a schedule.
[Illustration: SCRUBBING-BRUSH.]
[Illustration: SCRUBBING-BRUSH.]
2306. Once a week, when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned, the house-maid should commence by brushing the mattresses of the bed before it is made; she should then make it, shake the curtains, lay them smoothly on the bed, and pin or tuck up the bottom valance, so that she may be able to sweep under the bed. She should then unloop the window-curtains, shake them, and pin them high up out of the way. After clearing the dressing-table, and the room altogether of little articles of china, &c. &c., she should shake the toilet-covers, fold them up, and lay them on the bed, over which a large dusting-sheet should be thrown. She should then sweep the room; first of all sprinkling the carpet with well-squeezed tea-leaves, or a little freshly-pulled grass, when this is obtainable. After the carpet is swept, and the grate cleaned, she should wash with soap and water, with a little soda in it, the washing-table apparatus, removing all marks or fur round the jugs, caused by the water. The water-bottles and tumblers must also have her attention, as well as the top of the washing-stand, which should be cleaned with soap and flannel if it be marble: if of polished mahogany, no soap must be used. When these are all clean and arranged in their places, the housemaid should scrub the floor where it is not covered with carpet, under the beds, and round the wainscot. She should use as little soap and soda as possible, as too free a use of these articles is liable to give the boards a black appearance. In the country, cold soft water, a clean scrubbing-brush, and a willing arm, are all that are required to make bedroom floors look white. In winter it is not advisable to scrub rooms too often, as it is difficult to dry them thoroughly at that season of the year, and nothing is more dangerous than to allow persons to sleep in a damp room. The housemaid should now dust the furniture, blinds, ornaments, &c.; polish the looking-glass; arrange the toilet-cover and muslin; remove the cover from the bed, and straighten and arrange the curtains and counterpane. A bedroom should be cleaned like this every week. There are times, however, when it is necessary to have the carpet up; this should be done once a year in the country, and twice a year in large cities. The best time for these arrangements is spring and autumn, when the bed-furniture requires changing to suit the seasons of the year. After arranging the furniture, it should all be well rubbed and polished; and for this purpose the housemaid should provide herself with an old silk pocket-handkerchief, to finish the polishing.
2306. Once a week, when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned, the housemaid should start by brushing the mattresses of the bed before making it. She should then make the bed, shake the curtains, lay them smoothly on the bed, and pin or tuck up the bottom valance so that she can sweep under the bed. Next, she should unloop the window curtains, shake them, and pin them high up out of the way. After clearing the dressing table and the room of small items like china, she should shake the toilet covers, fold them up, and place them on the bed, over which a large dusting sheet should be laid. She should then sweep the room, first sprinkling the carpet with well-squeezed tea leaves or a little freshly pulled grass when it's available. After sweeping the carpet and cleaning the grate, she should wash the washing table items with soap and water mixed with a little soda, removing any marks or residue around the jugs caused by water. The water bottles and tumblers also need her attention, as well as the top of the washing stand, which should be cleaned with soap and flannel if it's marble; if it's polished mahogany, no soap should be used. Once all these items are clean and arranged in their places, the housemaid should scrub the floor in areas not covered by carpet, under the beds, and around the baseboards. She should use as little soap and soda as possible, as using too much can make the boards look black. In the country, cold soft water, a clean scrubbing brush, and a willing arm are all that’s needed to make bedroom floors look white. In winter, it’s not advisable to scrub rooms too often since it's hard to dry them thoroughly during that season, and nothing is more dangerous than allowing people to sleep in a damp room. The housemaid should now dust the furniture, blinds, ornaments, etc.; polish the mirror; arrange the toilet cover and muslin; remove the cover from the bed; and straighten and arrange the curtains and bedspread. A bedroom should be cleaned like this every week. However, there are times when it’s necessary to lift the carpet; this should be done once a year in the country and twice a year in large cities. The best times for these tasks are spring and autumn when the bed linens need to be changed to match the seasons. After arranging the furniture, everything should be well rubbed and polished, and for this, the housemaid should use an old silk handkerchief to finish the polishing.
[Illustration: LONG HAIR-BROOM.]
[Illustration: Long Hair Broom.]
2307. As modern furniture is now nearly always French-polished, it should often be rubbed with an old silk rubber, or a fine cloth or duster, to keep it free from smears. Three or four times a year any of the following polishes may be applied with very great success, as any of them make French-polished furniture look very well. One precaution must be taken,—not to put too much of the polish on at one time, and to rub, not smear it over the articles.
2307. Since modern furniture is almost always French-polished now, it should frequently be wiped down with an old silk cloth or a fine duster to keep it free from smudges. You can apply any of the following polishes three or four times a year with great success, as they all enhance the appearance of French-polished furniture. One important tip is to avoid using too much polish at once and to rub, not smear it over the surfaces.
FURNITURE POLISH.
2308. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of linseed-oil, 1/4 pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of spirits of salts, 1/2 oz. of muriatic antimony.
2308. INGREDIENTS.—1/4 pint of linseed oil, 1/4 pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of spirits of salt, 1/2 oz. of muriatic antimony.
Mode.—Mix all well together, and shake before using.
Mode.—Combine everything thoroughly and shake well before using.
FURNITURE POLISH.
2309. INGREDIENTS.—Equal proportions of linseed-oil, turpentine, vinegar, and spirits of wine.
2309. INGREDIENTS.—Equal parts of linseed oil, turpentine, vinegar, and alcohol.
Mode.—When used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniture with a piece of linen rag, and polish with a clean duster. Vinegar and oil, rubbed in with flannel, and the furniture rubbed with a clean duster, produce a very good polish.
Mode.—When using it, shake the mixture well, then apply it to the furniture with a piece of linen cloth, and finish by polishing with a clean duster. A combination of vinegar and oil, applied with flannel and then polished with a clean duster, creates a great shine.
FURNITURE PASTE.
2310. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of common beeswax, 1 oz. of white wax, 1 oz. of curd soap, 1 pint of turpentine, 1 pint of boiled water.
2310. INGREDIENTS.—3 oz. of regular beeswax, 1 oz. of white wax, 1 oz. of curd soap, 1 pint of turpentine, 1 pint of boiled water.
[Illustration: FURNITURE BRUSH.]
[Illustration: Furniture brush.]
Mode.—Mix the ingredients together, adding the water when cold; shake the mixture frequently in the bottle, and do not use it for 48 hours after it is made. It should be applied with a piece of flannel, the furniture polished with a duster, and then with an old silk rubber.
Mode.—Combine the ingredients, adding the water when it's cold; shake the mixture regularly in the bottle, and avoid using it for 48 hours after preparation. Apply it with a piece of flannel, polish the furniture with a duster, and then finish with an old silk cloth.
2311. The chambers are finished, the chamber candlesticks brought down and cleaned, the parlour lamps trimmed;—and here the housemaid's utmost care is required. In cleaning candlesticks, as in every other cleaning, she should have cloths and brushes kept for that purpose alone; the knife used to scrape them should be applied to no other purpose; the tallow-grease should be thrown into a box kept for the purpose; the same with everything connected with the lamp-trimming; the best mode of doing which she will do well to learn from the tradesman who supplies the oil; always bearing in mind, however, that without perfect cleanliness, which involves occasional scalding, no lamp can be kept in order.
2311. The rooms are clean, the candlesticks have been brought down and polished, and the living room lamps have been trimmed; this is where the housemaid's attention to detail is crucial. When cleaning candlesticks, just like with any other cleaning task, she should use cloths and brushes designated specifically for that purpose. The knife used to scrape them should only be used for that, and any leftover grease should go into a dedicated container. The same goes for everything related to lamp trimming; she should learn the best methods from the supplier of the oil. It's essential to remember that without thorough cleanliness, which can include occasional scalding, no lamp can be maintained properly.
2312. The drawing and dining-room, inasmuch as everything there is more costly and valuable, require even more care. When the carpets are of the kind known as velvet-pile, they require to be swept firmly by a hard whisk brush, made of cocoanut fibre.
2312. The drawing and dining room, since everything there is more expensive and valuable, needs even more attention. When the carpets are the type called velvet-pile, they should be thoroughly swept with a stiff whisk brush made of coconut fiber.
2313. The furniture must be carefully gone over in every corner with a soft cloth, that it may be left perfectly free from dust; or where that is beyond reach, with a brush made of long feathers, or a goose's wing. The sofas are swept in the same manner, slightly beaten, the cushions shaken and smoothed, the picture-frames swept, and everything arranged in its proper place. This, of course, applies to dining as well as drawing-room and morning-room. And now the housemaid may dress herself for the day, and prepare for the family dinner, at which she must attend.
2313. The furniture needs to be thoroughly dusted in every corner with a soft cloth to ensure it's completely free of dust; or where that's hard to reach, a brush made of long feathers or a goose's wing should be used. The sofas are cleaned in the same way, gently beaten, the cushions shaken out and smoothed down, the picture frames dusted, and everything organized in its proper place. This applies to the dining room as well as the living room and morning room. Now the housemaid can get dressed for the day and prepare for the family dinner, which she must attend.
2314. We need not repeat the long instructions already given for laying the dinner-table. At the family dinner, even where no footman waits, the routine will be the same. In most families the cloth is laid with the slips on each side, with napkins, knives, forks, spoons, and wine and finger glasses on all occasions.
2314. We don’t need to go over the detailed instructions for setting the dinner table again. At a family dinner, even without a footman, the process will be the same. In most families, the table is set with the cloth draped over the sides, along with napkins, knives, forks, spoons, and wine and finger bowls for every occasion.
[Illustration: BUTLER'S TRAY AND STAND.]
[Illustration: Butler's tray and stand.]
2315. She should ascertain that her plate is in order, glasses free from smears, water-bottles and decanters the same, and everything ready on her tray, that she may be able to lay her cloth properly. Few things add more to the neat and comfortable appearance of a dinner-table than well-polished plate; indeed, the state of the plate is a certain indication of a well-managed or ill-managed household. Nothing is easier than to keep plate in good order, and yet many servants, from stupidity and ignorance, make it the greatest trouble of all things under their care. It should be remembered, that it is utterly impossible to make greasy silver take a polish; and that as spoons and forks in daily use are continually in contact with grease, they must require good washing in soap-and-water to remove it. Silver should be washed with a soapy flannel in one water, rinsed in another, and then wiped dry with a dry cloth. The plate so washed may be polished with the plate-rags, as in the following directions:—Once a week all the plate should receive a thorough cleaning with the hartshorn powder, as directed in the first recipe for cleaning plate; and where the housemaid can find time, rubbed every day with the plate-rags.
2315. She should ensure that her silverware is in order, that the glasses are free of smudges, and that the water bottles and decanters are the same. Everything should be ready on her tray so she can set the table properly. Few things contribute more to the neat and comfortable look of a dinner table than well-polished silverware; in fact, the condition of the silver is often a clear sign of a well-run or poorly run household. It’s really easy to keep silverware in good shape, yet many servants, due to carelessness and ignorance, make it one of the biggest challenges in their duties. It’s important to remember that it’s impossible to polish greasy silver, and since spoons and forks are used daily and come into contact with grease, they need to be thoroughly washed with soap and water to remove it. Silver should be cleaned with soapy fabric in one bowl of water, rinsed in another, and then dried with a clean cloth. The cleaned silver can then be polished with the polishing cloths, as outlined in the following instructions:—Once a week, all the silver should be thoroughly cleaned with hartshorn powder, following the first recipe for cleaning silver; and whenever the housemaid has time, rubbed with the polishing cloths every day.
2316. Hartshorn, we may observe, is one of the best possible ingredients for plate-powder in daily use. It leaves on the silver a deep, dark polish, and at the same time does less injury than anything else. It has also the advantage of being very cheap; almost all the ordinary powders sold in boxes containing more or less of quicksilver, in some form or another; and this in process of time is sure to make the plate brittle. If any one wishes to be convinced of the effect of quicksilver on plate, he has only to rub a little of it on one place for some time,—on the handle of a silver teaspoon for instance, and he will find it break in that spot with very little pressure.
2316. Hartshorn is one of the best possible ingredients for daily use in plate powder. It gives silver a deep, dark shine while causing less damage than any other option. It’s also very affordable; most regular powders sold in boxes contain varying amounts of mercury in some form, which will ultimately make the plate brittle over time. If anyone wants to see the effect of mercury on plate, they only need to rub a bit of it on one spot for a while—like on the handle of a silver teaspoon—and they will notice it can break in that spot with very little pressure.
To Clean Plate.
To clean the plate.
A very excellent method.
An excellent method.
[Illustration: PLATE-BRUSH.]
[Illustration: PLATE-BRUSH.]
2317. Wash the plate well to remove all grease, in a strong lather of common yellow soap and boiling water, and wipe it quite dry; then mix as much hartshorn powder as will be required, into a thick paste, with cold water or spirits of wine; smear this lightly over the plate with a piece of soft rag, and leave it for some little time to dry. When perfectly dry, brush it off quite clean with a soft plate-brush, and polish the plate with a dry leather. If the plate be very dirty, or much tarnished, spirits of wine will be found to answer better than the water for mixing the paste.
2317. Wash the plate thoroughly to remove all grease, using a strong lather of regular yellow soap and boiling water, and wipe it completely dry. Then mix enough hartshorn powder with cold water or alcohol to make a thick paste; lightly spread this over the plate with a soft cloth and let it dry for a while. Once it's completely dry, clean it off with a soft plate brush and polish the plate with a dry leather cloth. If the plate is really dirty or heavily tarnished, alcohol works better than water for mixing the paste.
Plate-rags for daily use.
Dishcloths for everyday use.
2318. Boil soft rags (nothing is better for the purpose than the tops of old cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder, in the proportion of 1 oz. of powder to a pint of milk; boil them for 5 minutes; wring them as soon as they are taken out, for a moment, in cold water, and dry them before the fire. With these rags rub the plate briskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried after daily use. A most beautiful deep polish will be produced, and the plate will require nothing more than merely to be dusted with a leather or a dry soft cloth, before it is again put on the table.
2318. Boil soft rags (the best option is the tops of old cotton stockings) in a mix of fresh milk and hartshorn powder, using 1 oz. of powder for every pint of milk; boil them for 5 minutes; quickly wring them in cold water as soon as you take them out, and dry them in front of the fire. Use these rags to rub the plate briskly right after it’s been cleaned and dried after daily use. This will create a beautiful deep shine, and the plate will only need to be dusted with leather or a dry soft cloth before being set back on the table.
2319. For waiting at table, the housemaid should be neatly and cleanly dressed, and, if possible, her dress made with closed sleeves, the large open ones dipping and falling into everything on the table, and being very much in the way. She should not wear creaking boots, and should move about the room as noiselessly as possible, anticipating people's wants by handing them things without being asked for them, and altogether be as quiet as possible. It will be needless here to repeat what we have already said respecting waiting at table, in the duties of the butler and footman: rules that are good to be observed by them, are equally good for the parlour-maid or housemaid.
2319. When serving at the table, the housemaid should be dressed neatly and cleanly, and if possible, her dress should have closed sleeves. Large open sleeves can dip into everything on the table and can be quite inconvenient. She shouldn't wear squeaky boots and should move around the room as quietly as possible, anticipating the guests' needs by offering them items without them having to ask. Overall, she should aim to be as quiet as possible. It's unnecessary to repeat what we've already discussed regarding serving at the table, as the rules for the butler and footman also apply to the parlour-maid or housemaid.
2320. The housemaid having announced that dinner is on the table, will hand the soup, fish, meat, or side-dishes to the different members of the family; but in families who do not spend much of the day together, they will probably prefer being alone at dinner and breakfast; the housemaid will be required, after all are helped, if her master does not wish her to stay in the room, to go on with her work of cleaning up in the pantry, and answer the bell when rung. In this case she will place a pile of plates on the table or a dumbwaiter, within reach of her master and mistress, and leave the room.
2320. The housemaid will announce that dinner is ready and serve the soup, fish, meat, or side dishes to the family members. However, in families that don't spend much time together during the day, they might prefer to eat dinner and breakfast alone. Once everyone is served, if her employer doesn't want her to stay in the room, the housemaid will return to her work cleaning up in the pantry and will answer the bell when it's rung. In this case, she'll leave a stack of plates on the table or a dumbwaiter within reach of her employer and leave the room.
[Illustration: CRUMB-BRUSH].
[Illustration: CRUMB-BRUSH].
2321. Dinner over, the housemaid removes the plates and dishes on the tray, places the dirty knives and forks in the basket prepared for them, folds up the napkins in the ring which indicates by which member of the family it has been used, brushes off the crumbs on the hand-tray kept for the purpose, folds up the table-cloth in the folds already made, and places it in the linen-press to be smoothed out. After every meal the table should be rubbed, all marks from hot plates removed, and the table-cover thrown over, and the room restored to its usual order. If the family retire to the drawing-room, or any other room, it is a good practice to throw up the sash to admit fresh air and ventilate the room.
2321. After dinner, the housemaid clears the plates and dishes from the tray, puts the dirty knives and forks into the designated basket, folds the napkins in the rings that show which family member used them, brushes off the crumbs into the tray meant for that purpose, folds the tablecloth along the existing creases, and puts it in the linen press to be smoothed later. After every meal, the table should be wiped down, any marks from hot plates removed, the table cover placed over it, and the room put back in its usual order. If the family goes to the drawing-room or another room, it’s a good idea to open the window to let in fresh air and ventilate the space.
2322. The housemaid's evening service consists in washing up the dinner-things, the plate, plated articles, and glasses, restoring everything to its place; cleaning up her pantry, and putting away everything for use when next required; lastly, preparing for tea, as the time approaches, by setting the things out on the tray, getting the urn or kettle ready, with cream and other things usually partaken of at that meal.
2322. The housemaid's evening duties include washing the dinner dishes, plates, silverware, and glasses, putting everything back in its place; tidying up her pantry and storing everything away for future use; and finally, getting ready for tea by setting out the items on the tray and preparing the urn or kettle, along with cream and any other usual accompaniments for that meal.
2323. In summer-time the windows of all the bedrooms, which have been closed during the heat of the day, should be thrown open for an hour or so after sunset, in order to air them. Before dark they should be closed, the bedclothes turned down, and the night-clothes laid in order for use when required. During winter, where fires are required in the dressing-rooms, they should be lighted an hour before the usual time of retiring, placing a fire-guard before each fire. At the same time, the night-things on the horse should be placed before it to be aired, with a tin can of hot water, if the mistress is in the habit of washing before going to bed. We may add, that there is no greater preservative of beauty than washing the face every night in hot water. The housemaid will probably be required to assist her mistress to undress and put her dress in order for the morrow; in which case her duties are very much those of the lady's-maid.
2323. In the summer, the windows of all the bedrooms, which have been shut during the hot hours of the day, should be opened for about an hour after sunset to let in fresh air. Before it gets dark, they should be closed again, the bed linens turned down, and the pajamas laid out neatly for when they're needed. In winter, if fires are needed in the dressing rooms, they should be lit an hour before bedtime, with a fire guard placed in front of each fire. At the same time, the nightwear should be placed in front of the fire to warm up, along with a tin can of hot water if the lady likes to wash up before going to bed. It's worth mentioning that there's nothing better for maintaining beauty than washing your face every night with hot water. The housemaid will likely need to help her mistress get undressed and prepare her outfit for the next day; in this case, her responsibilities are very similar to those of a lady's maid.
2324. And now the fire is made up for the night, the fireguard replaced, and everything in the room in order for the night, the housemaid taking care to leave the night-candle and matches together in a convenient place, should they be required. It is usual in summer to remove all highly fragrant flowers from sleeping-rooms, the impression being that their scent is injurious in a close chamber.
2324. And now the fire is set up for the night, the fireguard is in place, and everything in the room is ready for the night. The housemaid makes sure to leave the night candle and matches together in a handy spot, just in case they are needed. In the summer, it's common to take out all strongly scented flowers from bedrooms because people believe their scent can be harmful in a small space.
2325. On leisure days, the housemaid should be able to do some needlework for her mistress,—such as turning and mending sheets and darning the house linen, or assist her in anything she may think fit to give her to do. For this reason it is almost essential that a housemaid, in a small family, should be an expert needlewoman; as, if she be a good manager and an active girl, she will have time on her hands to get through plenty of work.
2325. On days off, the housemaid should be able to do some sewing for her employer—like turning and mending sheets and darning the household linen, or helping her with anything else she thinks is appropriate. For this reason, it’s nearly essential for a housemaid, in a small household, to be a skilled seamstress; if she is a good manager and an active worker, she will have enough free time to complete a lot of tasks.
2326. Periodical Cleanings.—Besides the daily routine which we have described, there are portions of every house which can only be thoroughly cleaned occasionally; at which time the whole house usually undergoes a more thorough cleaning than is permitted in the general way. On these occasions it is usual to begin at the top of the house and clean downwards; moving everything out of the room; washing the wainscoting or paint with soft soap and water; pulling down the beds and thoroughly cleansing all the joints; "scrubbing" the floor; beating feather beds, mattress, and paillasse, and thoroughly purifying every article of furniture before it is put back in its place.
2326. Periodical Cleanings.—In addition to the daily routine we've described, there are parts of every house that need to be cleaned thoroughly only from time to time; during these sessions, the entire house usually gets a more extensive clean than typical. It's common to start at the top of the house and work downward; moving everything out of the room, washing the woodwork or paint with mild soap and water, disassembling the beds and cleaning all the joints thoroughly, "scrubbing" the floor, beating feather beds, mattresses, and cushions, and completely cleaning every piece of furniture before putting it back in its place.
2327. This general cleaning usually takes place in the spring or early summer, when the warm curtains of winter are replaced by the light and cheerful muslin curtains. Carpets are at the same time taken up and beaten, except where the mistress of the house has been worried into an experiment by the often-reiterated question, "Why beat your carpets?" In this case she will probably have made up her mind to try the cleaning process, and arranged with the company to send for them on the morning when cleaning commenced. It is hardly necessary to repeat, that on this occasion every article is to be gone over, the French-polished furniture well rubbed and polished. The same thorough system of cleaning should be done throughout the house; the walls cleaned where painted, and swept down with a soft broom or feather brush where papered; the window and bed curtains, which have been replaced with muslin ones, carefully brushed, or, if they require it, cleaned; lamps not likely to be required, washed out with hot water, dried, and cleaned. The several grates are now to be furnished with their summer ornaments; and we know none prettier than the following, which the housemaid may provide at a small expense to her mistress:—Purchase two yards and a half of crinoline muslin, and tear it into small strips, the selvage way of the material, about an inch wide; strip this thread by thread on each side, leaving the four centre threads; this gives about six-and-thirty pieces, fringed on each side, which are tied together at one end, and fastened to the trap of the register, while the threads, unravelled, are spread gracefully about the grate, the lower part of which is filled with paper shavings. This makes a very elegant and very cheap ornament, which is much stronger, besides, than those usually purchased.
2327. This general cleaning usually happens in the spring or early summer, when the heavy winter curtains are swapped out for light and cheerful muslin ones. Carpets are also taken up and beaten, unless the homeowner has been convinced to try an alternative method by the often-repeated question, "Why beat your carpets?" In that case, she has likely decided to experiment with a different cleaning process and scheduled a company to pick them up on the cleaning day. It’s essential to mention that during this time, every item should be thoroughly cleaned, with the French-polished furniture rubbed and polished well. The same thorough cleaning system should be applied throughout the house; walls should be cleaned if painted, and swept down gently with a soft broom or feather brush if they are wallpapered; the window and bed curtains, which have been replaced with muslin, should be carefully brushed or cleaned if necessary; lamps that won't be needed should be rinsed with hot water, dried, and cleaned. The various grates should now be adorned with their summer decorations; and we know of none prettier than the following, which the housemaid can create for her mistress at a low cost:—Buy two and a half yards of crinoline muslin, and tear it into small strips along the grain of the fabric, about an inch wide; strip this thread by thread on each side, leaving four central threads; this gives about thirty-six pieces, fringed on both sides, which are tied together at one end and attached to the register's trap, while the unraveled threads are spread elegantly around the grate, the lower part of which is filled with paper shavings. This creates a very stylish and inexpensive decoration, which is much sturdier than those generally bought.
[Illustration: CORNICE-BRUSH.]
[Illustration: CORNICE-BRUSH.]
[Illustration: HOUSE-PAIL.]
[Illustration: HOUSE-PAIL.]
[Illustration: DUSTING-BRUSH.]
[Illustration: Dusting Brush.]
2328. As winter approaches, this house-cleaning will have to be repeated, and the warm bed and window curtains replaced. The process of scouring and cleaning is again necessary, and must be gone through, beginning at the top, and going through the house, down to the kitchens.
2328. As winter gets closer, this cleaning needs to be done again, along with replacing the warm bed and window curtains. The process of scrubbing and cleaning is necessary again and must be done, starting from the top and working through the house down to the kitchens.
2329. Independently of these daily and periodical cleanings, other occupations will present themselves from time to time, which the housemaid will have to perform. When spots show on polished furniture, they can generally be restored by soap-and-water and a sponge, the polish being brought out by using a little polish, and then well rubbing it. Again, drawers which draw out stiffly may be made to move more easily if the spot where they press is rubbed over with a little soap.
2329. Besides the daily and regular cleanings, there will be other tasks that the housemaid will need to take care of from time to time. When marks appear on polished furniture, they can usually be cleaned up with soap and water and a sponge; just add a bit of polish and then rub it well. Also, drawers that stick can be made to open more smoothly if you rub a little soap on the area where they drag.
2330. Chips broken off any of the furniture should be collected and replaced, by means of a little glue applied to it. Liquid glue, which is sold prepared in bottles, is very useful to have in the house, as it requires no melting; and anything broken can be so quickly repaired.
2330. Chips that break off any furniture should be collected and replaced using a bit of glue. Liquid glue, which comes ready to use in bottles, is really handy to have at home since it doesn’t need to be melted; it makes it quick and easy to fix anything that’s broken.
2331. Breaking glass and china is about the most disagreeable thing that can happen in a family, and it is, probably, a greater annoyance to a right-minded servant than to the mistress. A neat-handed housemaid may sometimes repair these breakages, where they are not broken in very conspicuous places, by joining the pieces very neatly together with a cement made as follows:—Dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a quantity of highly-rectified spirits of wine; then soften an ounce of isinglass in warm water, and, finally, dissolve it in rum or brandy, till it forms a thick jelly. Mix the isinglass and gum mastic together, adding a quarter of an ounce of finely-powdered gum ammoniac; put the whole into an earthen pipkin, and in a warm place, till they are thoroughly incorporated together; pour it into a small phial, and cork it down for use.
2331. Breaking glass and dishes is one of the most unfortunate things that can happen in a household, and it’s probably more frustrating for a conscientious servant than for the homeowner. A tidy housemaid can sometimes fix these breakages, particularly if they’re not in very noticeable places, by carefully piecing them back together with a cement made as follows:—Dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a good amount of high-proof alcohol; then soften an ounce of isinglass in warm water, and finally, dissolve it in rum or brandy until it turns into a thick jelly. Mix together the isinglass and gum mastic, adding a quarter of an ounce of finely powdered gum ammoniac; place everything into a small earthen pot and keep it in a warm place until it’s completely combined; then pour it into a small bottle and cork it for later use.
2332. In using it, dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silver teaspoon over a lighted candle. The broken pieces of glass or china being warmed, and touched with the now liquid cement, join the parts neatly together, and hold in their places till the cement has set; then wipe away the cement adhering to the edge of the joint, and leave it for twelve hours without touching it: the joint will be as strong as the china itself, and if neatly done, it will show no joining. It is essential that neither of the pieces be wetted either with hot or cold water.
2332. To use it, melt a small piece of the cement in a silver teaspoon over a lit candle. The broken pieces of glass or china should be warmed and then touched with the now liquid cement, which will bond the parts together neatly and hold them in place until the cement sets. After that, wipe away any cement that's sticking to the edge of the joint and let it sit for twelve hours without being disturbed: the joint will be as strong as the china itself, and if done carefully, it will be seamless. It's crucial that neither piece gets wet with hot or cold water.
USEFUL RECIPES FOR HOUSEMAIDS.
To clean Marble.
To clean marble.
2333. Mix with 1/4 pint of soap lees, 1/2 gill of turpentine, sufficient pipe-clay and bullock's gall to make the whole into rather a thick paste. Apply it to the marble with a soft brush, and after a day or two, when quite dry, rub it off with a soft rag. Apply this a second or third time till the marble is quite clean.
2333. Mix with 1/4 pint of soap lees, 1/2 gill of turpentine, and enough pipe-clay and bullock's gall to create a thick paste. Use a soft brush to apply it to the marble, and after a day or two, once it's completely dry, wipe it off with a soft cloth. Repeat this a second or third time until the marble is thoroughly clean.
Another method.
Another approach.
2334. Take two parts of soda, one of pumice-stone, and one of finely-powdered chalk. Sift these through a fine sieve, and mix them into a paste with water. Rub this well all over the marble, and the stains will be removed; then wash it with soap-and-water, and a beautiful bright polish will be produced.
2334. Take two parts of baking soda, one part of pumice stone, and one part of finely powdered chalk. Sift these through a fine sieve, and mix them into a paste with water. Rub this thoroughly all over the marble, and the stains will come off; then wash it with soap and water, and you'll get a beautiful bright polish.
To clean Floorcloth.
To clean floor cloth.
2335. After having washed the floorcloth in the usual manner with a damp flannel, wet it all over with milk and rub it well with a dry cloth, when a most beautiful polish will be brought out. Some persons use for rubbing a well-waxed flannel; but this in general produces an unpleasant slipperiness, which is not the case with the milk.
2335. After washing the floorcloth as usual with a damp flannel, soak it completely in milk and then buff it with a dry cloth to bring out a beautiful shine. Some people use a well-waxed flannel for buffing; however, this usually creates an unpleasant slipperiness, unlike when using milk.
To clean Decanters.
To clean decanters.
2336. Roll up in small pieces some soft brown or blotting paper; wet them, and soap them well. Put them into the decanters about one quarter full of warm water; shake them well for a few minutes, then rinse with clear cold water; wipe the outsides with a nice dry cloth, put the decanters to drain, and when dry they will be almost as bright as new ones.
2336. Roll up some soft brown or blotting paper into small pieces; wet them and lather them well with soap. Place them into the decanters filled about a quarter of the way with warm water; shake them well for a few minutes, then rinse with clear cold water; wipe the outside with a nice dry cloth, set the decanters to drain, and when dry they will be almost as bright as new ones.
To brighten Gilt Frames.
To enhance Gilt Frames.
2337. Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about 1-1/2 pint of water, and in this boil 4 or 5 bruised onions, or garlic, which will answer the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it, when cold, wash, with a soft brush, any gilding which requires restoring, and when dry it will come out as bright as new work.
2337. Take enough sulfur powder to give a golden tint to about 1-1/2 pints of water. In this, boil 4 or 5 crushed onions or garlic, which will work just as well. Strain the liquid, and when it's cold, use a soft brush to wash any gilding that needs restoration. Once dry, it will look as bright as new.
To preserve bright Grates or Fire-irons from Rust.
To keep bright grates or fire irons from rusting.
2338. Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water, and with a fine brush smear it as thickly as possible over all the polished surface requiring preservation. By this simple means, all the grates and fire-irons in an empty house may be kept for months free from harm, without further care or attention.
2338. Create a thick paste using fresh lime and water, and use a fine brush to apply it as thickly as you can over all the polished surfaces that need protection. With this simple method, you can keep all the grates and fire tools in an empty house protected for months without needing any additional care or attention.
German Furniture-Gloss.
German Furniture Glossary.
2339. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. yellow wax, 1 oz. black rosin, 2 oz. of oil of turpentine.
2339. INGREDIENTS.—1/2 lb. yellow wax, 1 oz. black rosin, 2 oz. turpentine oil.
Mode.—Cut the wax into small pieces, and melt it in a pipkin, with the rosin pounded very fine. Stir in gradually, while these two ingredients are quite warm, the oil of turpentine. Keep this composition well covered for use in a tin or earthen pot. A little of this gloss should be spread on a piece of coarse woollen cloth, and the furniture well rubbed with it; afterwards it should be polished with a fine cloth.
Mode.—Cut the wax into small pieces and melt it in a small pot, along with the finely ground rosin. Gradually stir in the turpentine oil while the mixture is still warm. Store this mixture covered in a tin or clay pot for later use. Apply a small amount of this gloss to a piece of coarse wool fabric and rub it well onto the furniture; then polish it with a soft cloth.
DUTIES OF THE MAID-OF-ALL-WORK.
2340. The general servant, or maid-of-all-work, is perhaps the only one of her class deserving of commiseration: her life is a solitary one, and in, some places, her work is never done. She is also subject to rougher treatment than either the house or kitchen-maid, especially in her earlier career: she starts in life, probably a girl of thirteen, with some small tradesman's wife as her mistress, just a step above her in the social scale; and although the class contains among them many excellent, kind-hearted women, it also contains some very rough specimens of the feminine gender, and to some of these it occasionally falls to give our maid-of-all-work her first lessons in her multifarious occupations: the mistress's commands are the measure of the maid-of-all-work's duties. By the time she has become a tolerable servant, she is probably engaged in some respectable tradesman's house, where she has to rise with the lark, for she has to do in her own person all the work which in larger establishments is performed by cook, kitchen-maid, and housemaid, and occasionally the part of a footman's duty, which consists in carrying messages.
2340. The general servant, or all-purpose maid, is probably the only one in her position who deserves sympathy: her life is lonely, and in some places, she never seems to finish her work. She also faces harsher treatment than both the housemaid and kitchen maid, especially early on; she usually starts out as a girl of about thirteen, working for the wife of a small shopkeeper, who is just a bit higher on the social ladder. While this group includes many kind, caring women, it also has some rough personalities, and it's often these women who give our all-purpose maid her first lessons in her many tasks: the mistress's orders dictate the maid's responsibilities. By the time she becomes a decent servant, she is likely working in a respectable tradesman's household, where she has to rise with the sun because she is responsible for all the work that in larger homes is divided among the cook, kitchen maid, and housemaid, and sometimes she even takes on some duties of a footman, like running errands.
2341. The general servant's duties commence by opening the shutters (and windows, if the weather permits) of all the lower apartments in the house; she should then brush up her kitchen-range, light the fire, clear away the ashes, clean the hearth, and polish with a leather the bright parts of the range, doing all as rapidly and as vigorously as possible, that no more time be wasted than is necessary. After putting on the kettle, she should then proceed to the dining-room or parlour to get it in order for breakfast. She should first roll up the rug, take up the fender, shake and fold up the table-cloth, then sweep the room, carrying the dirt towards the fireplace; a coarse cloth should then be laid down over the carpet, and she should proceed to clean the grate, having all her utensils close to her. When the grate is finished, the ashes cleared away, the hearth cleaned, and the fender put back in its place, she must dust the furniture, not omitting the legs of the tables and chairs; and if there are any ornaments or things on the sideboard, she must not dust round them, but lift them up on to another place, dust well where they have been standing, and then replace the things. Nothing annoys a particular mistress so much as to find, when she comes down stairs, different articles of furniture looking as if they had never been dusted. If the servant is at all methodical, and gets into a habit of doing a room in a certain way, she will scarcely ever leave her duties neglected. After the rug is put down, the table-cloth arranged, and everything in order, she should lay the cloth for breakfast, and then shut the dining-room door.
2341. The general servant's duties start by opening the shutters (and windows, if the weather is nice) of all the lower rooms in the house; then she should clean the kitchen range, light the fire, empty the ashes, clean the hearth, and polish the shiny parts of the range with a leather cloth, doing everything as quickly and energetically as possible, so that no more time is wasted than necessary. After putting on the kettle, she should head to the dining room or parlor to prepare for breakfast. First, she should roll up the rug, remove the fender, shake out and fold the tablecloth, then sweep the room, directing the dirt toward the fireplace; a coarse cloth should then be laid down over the carpet, and she should start cleaning the grate, keeping all her tools nearby. Once the grate is done, the ashes removed, the hearth cleaned, and the fender placed back, she must dust the furniture, including the legs of the tables and chairs; if there are any decorations or items on the sideboard, she must pick them up, dust the spots they occupied well, and then return them. Nothing irritates a particular mistress more than to find different pieces of furniture looking like they’ve never been dusted when she comes downstairs. If the servant is organized and develops a routine for cleaning a room in a certain way, she will hardly ever leave her responsibilities undone. After the rug is laid down, the tablecloth arranged, and everything in place, she should set the table for breakfast and then close the dining room door.
2342. The hall must now be swept, the mats shaken, the door-step cleaned, and any brass knockers or handles polished up with the leather. If the family breakfast very early, the tidying of the hall must then be deferred till after that meal. After cleaning the boots that are absolutely required, the servant should now wash her hands and face, put on a clean white apron, and be ready for her mistress when she comes down stairs. In families where there is much work to do before breakfast, the master of the house frequently has two pairs of boots in wear, so that they may be properly cleaned when the servant has more time to do them, in the daytime. This arrangement is, perhaps, scarcely necessary in the summer-time, when there are no grates to clean every morning; but in the dark days of winter it is only kind and thoughtful to lighten a servant-of-all-work's duties as much as possible.
2342. The hall needs to be swept, the mats shaken out, the doorstep cleaned, and any brass knockers or handles polished with leather. If the family has breakfast very early, tidying up the hall should wait until after the meal. After cleaning the boots that are absolutely necessary, the servant should wash her hands and face, put on a clean white apron, and be ready for her mistress when she comes downstairs. In families where there’s a lot to do before breakfast, the master of the house often has two pairs of boots in use so they can be properly cleaned when the servant has more time during the day. This arrangement may not be as necessary in the summer when there are no grates to clean every morning, but during the dark days of winter, it’s kind and considerate to lighten a servant’s workload as much as possible.
[Illustration: BLACKING-BRUSH BOX.]
[Illustration: Blacking brush box.]
2343. She will now carry the urn into the dining-room, where her mistress will make the tea or coffee, and sometimes will boil the eggs, to insure them being done to her liking. In the mean time the servant cooks, if required, the bacon, kidneys, fish, &c.;—if cold meat is to be served, she must always send it to table on a clean dish, and nicely garnished with tufts of parsley, if this is obtainable.
2343. She will now take the urn into the dining room, where her boss will make the tea or coffee, and sometimes boil the eggs to make sure they're cooked just the way she likes. In the meantime, the servant cooks the bacon, kidneys, fish, etc., if needed; if cold meat is going to be served, she must always put it on a clean plate, nicely garnished with parsley, if it’s available.
2344. After she has had her own breakfast, and whilst the family are finishing theirs, she should go upstairs into the bedrooms, open all the windows, strip the clothes off the beds, and leave them to air whilst she is clearing away the breakfast things. She should then take up the crumbs in a dustpan from under the table, put the chairs in their places, and sweep up the hearth.
2344. After she’s had her breakfast, and while the family is finishing theirs, she should go upstairs to the bedrooms, open all the windows, strip the beds of their linens, and let them air out while she cleans up the breakfast dishes. Then, she should sweep up the crumbs from under the table with a dustpan, rearrange the chairs, and clean the hearth.
2345. The breakfast things washed up, the kitchen should be tidied, so that it may be neat when her mistress comes in to give the orders for the day: after receiving these orders, the servant should go upstairs again, with a jug of boiling water, the slop-pail, and two cloths. After emptying the slops, and scalding the vessels with the boiling water, and wiping them thoroughly dry, she should wipe the top of the wash-table and arrange it all in order. She then proceeds to make the beds, in which occupation she is generally assisted by the mistress, or, if she have any daughters, by one of them. Before commencing to make the bed, the servant should put on a large bed-apron, kept for this purpose only, which should be made very wide, to button round the waist and meet behind, while it should be made as long as the dress. By adopting this plan, the blacks and dirt on servants' dresses (which at all times it is impossible to help) will not rub off on to the bed-clothes, mattresses, and bed furniture. When the beds are made, the rooms should be dusted, the stairs lightly swept down, hall furniture, closets, &c., dusted. The lady of the house, where there is but one servant kept, frequently takes charge of the drawing-room herself, that is to say, dusting it; the servant sweeping, cleaning windows, looking-glasses, grates, and rough work of that sort. If there are many ornaments and knick-knacks about the room, it is certainly better for the mistress to dust these herself, as a maid-of-all-work's hands are not always in a condition to handle delicate ornaments.
2345. After washing up the breakfast dishes, the kitchen should be tidied so that it looks neat when her employer arrives to give the orders for the day. After receiving these instructions, the servant should head upstairs again with a jug of boiling water, the slop-pail, and two cloths. After emptying the slops and sanitizing the vessels with the boiling water, making sure to dry them completely, she should wipe down the top of the wash-table and organize everything. She then proceeds to make the beds, usually with help from the mistress or, if she has any daughters, from one of them. Before starting to make the bed, the servant should put on a large bed-apron kept specifically for this purpose. It should be wide enough to button around the waist and meet behind, and long enough to reach down to the dress. By doing this, any dirt and grime on the servant's clothing (which is always hard to avoid) won't transfer onto the bed linens, mattresses, and bed furnishings. Once the beds are made, the rooms should be dusted, the stairs should be lightly swept, and hall furniture, closets, etc., should be dusted as well. In households with only one servant, the lady of the house often takes care of the drawing-room herself, specifically dusting it while the servant sweeps, cleans the windows, mirrors, grates, and handles other rough tasks. If there are many ornaments and knick-knacks in the room, it’s certainly better for the mistress to dust these herself, as a maid-of-all-work's hands may not always be clean enough to touch delicate items.
2346. Now she has gone the rounds of the house and seen that all is in order, the servant goes to her kitchen to see about the cooking of the dinner, in which very often her mistress will assist her. She should put on a coarse apron with a bib to do her dirty work in, which may be easily replaced by a white one if required.
2346. Now that she has walked around the house and checked that everything is in order, the servant goes to her kitchen to take care of dinner preparations, which her mistress often helps with. She should put on a simple apron with a bib for the messy tasks, which can easily be swapped for a white one if needed.
2347. Half an hour before dinner is ready, she should lay the cloth, that everything may be in readiness when she is dishing up the dinner, and take all into the dining-room that is likely to be required, in the way of knives, forks, spoons, bread, salt, water, &c. &c. By exercising a little forethought, much confusion and trouble may be saved both to mistress and servant, by getting everything ready for the dinner in good time.
2347. Half an hour before dinner is ready, she should set the table so that everything is prepared when she serves the meal. She needs to take into the dining room all the things that might be needed, like knives, forks, spoons, bread, salt, water, etc. By planning ahead a bit, a lot of confusion and hassle can be avoided for both the host and the staff by getting everything ready for dinner in advance.
2348. After taking in the dinner, when every one is seated, she removes the covers, hands the plates round, and pours out the beer; and should be careful to hand everything on the left side of the person she is waiting on.
2348. After finishing dinner and once everyone is seated, she takes off the covers, serves the plates, and pours the beer; and she should be sure to serve everything from the left side of the person she is attending to.
2349. We need scarcely say that a maid-of-all-work cannot stay in the dining-room during the whole of dinner-time, as she must dish up her pudding, or whatever is served after the first course. When she sees every one helped, she should leave the room to make her preparations for the next course; and anything that is required, such as bread, &c., people may assist themselves to in the absence of the servant.
2349. It's obvious that a maid-of-all-work can't stay in the dining room the entire time during dinner, since she needs to serve the pudding or whatever comes after the first course. Once she sees everyone has been served, she should step out to get ready for the next course; if anyone needs anything like bread, they can help themselves while she's away.
2350. When the dinner things are cleared away, the servant should sweep up the crumbs in the dining-room, sweep the hearth, and lightly dust the furniture, then sit down to her own dinner.
2350. After the dinner items are cleared away, the servant should sweep up the crumbs in the dining room, clean the hearth, and lightly dust the furniture, then sit down to her own dinner.
[Illustration: KNIFE-CLEANING MACHINE]
[Illustration: Knife Cleaning Machine]
2351. After this, she washes up and puts away the dinner things, sweeps the kitchen, dusts and tidies it, and puts on the kettle for tea. She should now, before dressing herself for the afternoon, clean her knives, boots, and shoes, and do any other dirty work in the scullery that may be necessary. Knife-cleaning machines are rapidly taking the place, in most households, of the old knife-board. The saving of labour by the knife-cleaner is very great, and its performance of the work is very satisfactory. Small and large machines are manufactured, some cleaning only four knives, whilst others clean as many as twelve at once. Nothing can be more simple than the process of machine knife-cleaning; and although, in a very limited household, the substitution of the machine for the board may not be necessary, yet we should advise all housekeepers, to whom the outlay is not a difficulty, to avail themselves of the services of a machine. We have already spoken of its management in the "Duties of the Footman," No. 2177.
2351. After this, she cleans up and puts away the dinner stuff, sweeps the kitchen, dusts and organizes it, and puts the kettle on for tea. Before getting ready for the afternoon, she should now clean her knives, boots, and shoes, and handle any other dirty tasks in the scullery that might be needed. Knife-cleaning machines are quickly replacing the old knife-board in most homes. The labor savings from the knife-cleaner are substantial, and it gets the job done quite well. Small and large machines are available, some cleaning only four knives, while others can handle as many as twelve at once. The process of machine knife-cleaning is incredibly simple; and even though, in a very small household, switching from the board to the machine might not be essential, we recommend that all housekeepers, for whom the expense isn't an issue, take advantage of a machine's services. We have already discussed its operation in the "Duties of the Footman," No. 2177.
2352. When the servant is dressed, she takes in the tea, and after tea turns down the beds, sees that the water-jugs and bottles are full, closes the windows, and draws down the blinds. If the weather is very warm, these are usually left open until the last thing at night, to cool the rooms.
2352. When the maid is ready, she serves the tea, and after tea, she makes the beds, checks that the water jugs and bottles are full, closes the windows, and pulls down the blinds. If it’s really hot outside, she usually leaves the windows open until the very end of the night to cool down the rooms.
2353. The routine of a general servant's duties depends upon the kind of situation she occupies; but a systematic maid-of-all-work should so contrive to divide her work, that every day in the week may have its proper share. By this means she is able to keep the house clean with less fatigue to herself than if she left all the cleaning to do at the end of the week. Supposing there are five bedrooms in the house, two sitting-rooms, kitchen, scullery, and the usual domestic offices:—on Monday she should thoroughly clean the drawing-room; on Tuesday, two of the bedrooms; on Wednesday, two more; on Thursday, the other bedroom and stairs; on Friday morning she should sweep the dining-room very thoroughly, clean the hall, and in the afternoon her kitchen tins and bright utensils. By arranging her work in this manner, no undue proportion will fall to Saturday's share, and she will then have this day for cleaning plate, cleaning her kitchen, and arranging everything in nice order. The regular work must, of course, be performed in the usual manner, as we have endeavoured to describe.
2353. The routine of a general servant's duties depends on the type of job she has; however, a well-organized maid-of-all-work should manage her tasks so that each day of the week has its own proper share. This way, she can keep the house clean with less effort than if she waited until the end of the week to do all the cleaning. If there are five bedrooms in the house, two sitting rooms, a kitchen, a scullery, and the usual household areas: on Monday, she should thoroughly clean the drawing-room; on Tuesday, two of the bedrooms; on Wednesday, two more; on Thursday, the last bedroom and the stairs; on Friday morning, she should sweep the dining room thoroughly, clean the hall, and in the afternoon, clean her kitchen pots and shiny utensils. By organizing her work like this, no excessive amount will be left for Saturday, allowing her that day to clean the silver, tidy her kitchen, and arrange everything neatly. The regular tasks must, of course, be carried out in the usual way, as we have tried to explain.
2354. Before retiring to bed, she will do well to clean up glasses, plates, &c. which have been used for the evening meal, and prepare for her morning's work by placing her wood near the fire, on the hob, to dry, taking care there is no danger of it igniting, before she leaves the kitchen for the night. Before retiring, she will have to lock and bolt the doors, unless the master undertakes this office himself.
2354. Before going to bed, she should clean up the glasses, plates, etc., that were used for dinner, and get ready for the morning by placing her wood near the fire on the hob to dry, making sure there’s no risk of it catching fire before she leaves the kitchen for the night. Before heading to bed, she’ll also need to lock and bolt the doors unless the master takes care of that himself.
2355. If the washing, or even a portion of it, is done at home, it will be impossible for the maid-of-all-work to do her household duties thoroughly, during the time it is about, unless she have some assistance. Usually, if all the washing is done at home, the mistress hires some one to assist at the wash-tub, and sees to little matters herself, in the way of dusting, clearing away breakfast things, folding, starching, and ironing the fine things. With a little management much can be accomplished, provided the mistress be industrious, energetic, and willing to lend a helping hand. Let washing-week be not the excuse for having everything in a muddle; and although "things" cannot be cleaned so thoroughly, and so much time spent upon them, as ordinarily, yet the house may be kept tidy and clear from litter without a great deal of exertion either on the part of the mistress or servant. We will conclude our remarks with an extract from an admirably-written book, called "Home Truths for Home Peace." The authoress says, with respect to the great wash—"Amongst all the occasions in which it is most difficult and glorious to keep muddle out of a family, 'the great wash' stands pre-eminent; and as very little money is now saved by having everything done at home, many ladies, with the option of taking another servant or putting out the chief part of the washing, have thankfully adopted the latter course." She goes on to say—"When a gentleman who dines at home can't bear washing in the house, but gladly pays for its being done elsewhere, the lady should gratefully submit to his wishes, and put out anything in her whole establishment rather than put out a good and generous husband."
2355. If the laundry, or even part of it, is done at home, it will be impossible for the housekeeper to manage her household duties thoroughly during that time unless she has some help. Usually, if all the laundry is done at home, the lady of the house hires someone to help with the wash and takes care of smaller tasks herself, like dusting, clearing away breakfast items, folding, starching, and ironing the fine clothes. With a little organization, a lot can be accomplished, provided the lady is hardworking, energetic, and willing to pitch in. Let laundry week not be an excuse for making everything a mess; and while things may not be cleaned as thoroughly or take as much time as usual, the house can still be kept tidy and free from clutter without too much effort from either the lady or the servant. We will conclude our remarks with an excerpt from an excellently written book called "Home Truths for Home Peace." The author states, regarding the big laundry—"Among all the times when it is most challenging and rewarding to keep chaos out of a household, 'the big laundry' stands out. Since there is now very little money saved by doing everything at home, many women, choosing between hiring another servant or outsourcing most of the laundry, have happily chosen the latter option." She continues—"When a gentleman who dines at home can't stand having laundry done in the house, but willingly pays to have it done elsewhere, the lady should graciously agree to his wishes and outsource anything in her entire household rather than risk losing a good and generous husband."
2356. A bustling and active girl will always find time to do a little needlework for herself, if she lives with consistent and reasonable people. In the summer evenings she should manage to sit down for two or three hours, and for a short time in the afternoon in leisure days. A general servant's duties are so multifarious, that unless she be quick and active, she will not be able to accomplish this. To discharge these various duties properly is a difficult task, and sometimes a thankless office; but it must be remembered that a good maid-of-all-work will make a good servant in any capacity, and may be safely taken not only without fear of failure, but with every probability of giving satisfaction to her employer.
2356. A busy and lively girl will always find time to do a bit of sewing for herself if she lives with reasonable and consistent people. In the summer evenings, she should be able to sit down for two or three hours and maybe a little time in the afternoon on her days off. A general servant's responsibilities are so varied that unless she is quick and energetic, she won't be able to get it all done. Managing these different tasks properly is challenging, and sometimes a thankless job; but it’s important to remember that a good maid who can do it all will make a good servant in any role and can be hired confidently, with a high likelihood of satisfying her employer.
DUTIES OF THE DAIRY-MAID.
2357. The duties of the dairy-maid differ considerably in different districts. In Scotland, Wales, and some of the northern counties, women milk the cows. On some of the large dairy farms in other parts of England, she takes her share in the milking, but in private families the milking is generally performed by the cowkeeper, and the dairy-maid only receives the milkpails from him morning and night, and empties and cleans them preparatory to the next milking; her duty being to supply the family with milk, cream, and butter, and other luxuries depending on the "milky mothers" of the herd.
2357. The responsibilities of the dairy maid vary significantly across different regions. In Scotland, Wales, and some northern counties, women are the ones who milk the cows. On some large dairy farms in other parts of England, she participates in the milking, but in private households, the milking is usually done by the cowkeeper, while the dairy maid simply collects the milk pails from him morning and night, cleans them out, and prepares them for the next milking. Her role is to provide the family with milk, cream, butter, and other treats that come from the "milky mothers" of the herd.
2358. The Dairy.—The object with which gentlemen keep cows is to procure milk unadulterated, and sweet butter, for themselves and families: in order to obtain this, however, great cleanliness is required, and as visitors, as well as the mistress of the house, sometimes visit the dairy, some efforts are usually made to render it ornamental and picturesque. The locality is usually fixed near to the house; it should neither be exposed to the fierce heat of the summer's sun nor to the equally unfavourable frosts of winter—it must be both sheltered and shaded. If it is a building apart from the house and other offices, the walls should be tolerably thick, and if hollow, the temperature will be more equable. The walls inside are usually covered with Dutch glazed tiles; the flooring also of glazed tiles set in asphalte, to resist water; and the ceiling, lath and plaster, or closely-jointed woodwork, painted. Its architecture will be a matter of fancy: it should have a northern aspect, and a thatched roof is considered most suitable, from the shade and shelter it affords; and it should contain at least two apartments, besides a cool place for storing away butter. One of the apartments, in which the milk is placed to deposit cream, or to ripen for churning, is usually surrounded by shelves of marble or slate, on which the milk-dishes rest; but it will be found a better plan to have a large square or round table of stone in the centre, with a water-tight ledge all round it, in which water may remain in hot weather, or, if some attempt at the picturesque is desired, a small fountain might occupy the centre, which would keep the apartment cool and fresh. Round this table the milk-dishes should be ranged; one shelf, or dresser, of slate or marble, being kept for the various occupations of the dairy-maid: it will be found a better plan than putting them on shelves and corners against the wall. There should be a funnel or ventilator in the ceiling, communicating with the open air, made to open and shut as required. Double windows are recommended, but of the lattice kind, so that they may open, and with wire-gauze blinds fitted into the opening, and calico blinds, which may be wetted when additional coolness is required. The other apartment will be used for churning, washing, and scrubbing—in fact, the scullery of the dairy, with a boiler for hot water, and a sink with cold water laid on, which should be plentiful and good. In some dairies a third apartment, or, at least, a cool airy pantry, is required for storing away butter, with shelves of marble or slate, to hold the cream-jars while it is ripening; and where cheeses are made, a fourth becomes necessary. The dairy utensils are not numerous,—churns, milk-pails for each cow, hair-sieves, slices of tin, milk-pans, marble dishes for cream for family use, scales and weights, a portable rack for drying the utensils, wooden bowls, butter-moulds and butter-patters, and wooden tubs for washing the utensils, comprising pretty nearly everything.
2358. The Dairy.—The reason why people have cows is to get pure milk and fresh butter for themselves and their families. To achieve this, cleanliness is key, and since both visitors and the homeowner may come by the dairy, efforts are typically made to make it look nice. It’s usually located close to the house, and it shouldn't be exposed to the harsh summer sun or the harsh winter frosts—it needs to be both sheltered and shaded. If it’s a separate building from the house, the walls should be fairly thick, and if they are hollow, it will help maintain a steady temperature. The inside walls are usually covered with Dutch glazed tiles; the floor is also made of glazed tiles set in asphalt to resist water, and the ceiling is made of lath and plaster or tightly joined wood, which is painted. The design can be a matter of personal preference; it should face north, and a thatched roof is considered ideal for the shade and protection it provides. It should have at least two rooms, plus a cool area for storing butter. One room is typically used for letting the milk stand to separate cream or to age for churning, which is usually surrounded by marble or slate shelves for resting milk dishes; however, a better setup would be to have a large square or round stone table in the center, with a waterproof ledge around it to hold water during hot weather. If a decorative touch is desired, a small fountain in the center would help keep the room cool and fresh. Milk dishes should be placed around this table, with one shelf or dresser made of slate or marble reserved for the dairy maid’s supplies—this is more effective than using shelves or corners against the wall. There should also be a funnel or ventilator in the ceiling that connects to the outside air, which can be opened or closed as needed. Double windows are recommended, but of the lattice type, allowing them to be opened, with wire gauze screens fitted in and calico blinds that can be dampened for extra coolness. The other room is meant for churning, washing, and scrubbing; in fact, it’s the dairy’s scullery, with a hot water boiler and a sink with a good supply of cold water. In some dairies, a third room, or at least a cool, airy pantry, is necessary for storing butter, with marble or slate shelves for holding cream jars while they ripen; if cheese is made, a fourth room becomes essential. The dairy equipment isn’t extensive—churns, milk-pails for each cow, hair-sieves, slices of tin, milk-pans, marble dishes for family cream, scales and weights, a portable rack for drying utensils, wooden bowls, butter molds and butter paddles, and wooden tubs for washing the tools make up pretty much everything.
2359. Pails are made of maple-wood or elm, and hooped, or of tin, more or less ornamented. One is required for each cow.
2359. Pails are made of maple wood or elm, and they are either hooped or made of tin, sometimes with a bit of decoration. You need one for each cow.
2360. The Hair-Sieve is made of closely-twisted horse-hair, with a rim, through which the milk is strained to remove any hairs which may have dropped from the cow in milking.
2360. The Hair-Sieve is made of tightly twisted horsehair, with a rim that strains the milk to filter out any hairs that might have come from the cow during milking.
2361. Milk-Dishes are shallow basins of glass, of glazed earthenware, or tin, about 16 inches in diameter at top, and 12 at the bottom, and 5 or 6 inches deep, holding about 8 to 10 quarts each when full.
2361. Milk-Dishes are shallow bowls made of glass, glazed ceramic, or tin, approximately 16 inches wide at the top, 12 inches at the bottom, and 5 or 6 inches deep, holding about 8 to 10 quarts when full.
2362. Churns are of all sorts and sizes, from that which churns 70 or 80 gallons by means of a strap from the engine, to the square box in which a pound of butter is made. The churn used for families is a square box, 18 inches by 12 or 13, and 17 deep, bevelled below to the plane of the dashers, with a loose lid or cover. The dasher consists of an axis of wood, to which the four beaters or fanners are attached; these fans are simply four pieces of elm strongly dovetailed together, forming an oblong square, with a space left open, two of the openings being left broader than the others; attached to an axle, they form an axis with four projecting blades; the axle fits into supports at the centre of the box; a handle is fitted to it, and the act of churning is done by turning the handle.
2362. Churns come in all shapes and sizes, from those that churn 70 or 80 gallons using a strap connected to an engine, to the small square box used for making a pound of butter. The churn designed for families is a square box measuring 18 inches by 12 or 13, and 17 inches deep, with the bottom angled to align with the dashers, and it has a loose lid. The dasher features a wooden axis to which four beaters or fanners are attached; these fans are essentially four pieces of elm strongly joined together, creating an oblong square with an open space, two of the openings being wider than the others. These are attached to an axle that acts as the axis with four extending blades; the axle is supported at the center of the box, and a handle is attached to it, allowing the churning to be done by turning the handle.
2363. Such is the temple in which the dairy-maid presides: it should be removed both from stable and cowhouse, and larder; no animal smells should come near it, and the drainage should be perfect.
2363. This is the space where the dairymaid works: it should be kept away from the stable, barn, and pantry; no animal odors should be allowed nearby, and the drainage must be impeccable.
2364. The dairy-maid receives the milk from the cowkeeper, each pail being strained through the hair-sieve into one of the milk-basins. This is left in the basins from twenty-four to thirty-six hours in the summer, according to the weather; after which it is skimmed off by means of the slicer, and poured into glazed earthenware jars to "turn" for churning. Some persons prefer making up a separate churning for the milk of each cow; in which there is some advantage. In this case the basins of each cow, for two days, would either be kept together or labelled. As soon as emptied, the pails should be scalded and every particle of milk washed out, and placed away in a dry place till next required; and all milk spilt on the floor, or on the table or dresser, cleaned up with a cloth and hot water. Where very great attention is paid to the dairy, the milk-coolers are used larger in winter, when it is desirable to retard the cooling down and increase the creamy deposit, and smaller in summer, to hasten it; the temperature required being from 55° to 50°, In summer it is sometimes expedient, in very sultry weather, to keep the dairy fresh and cool by suspending cloths dipped in chloride of lime across the room.
2364. The dairy maid gets the milk from the cowkeeper, straining each pail through a hair sieve into one of the milk basins. This milk is left in the basins for twenty-four to thirty-six hours in the summer, depending on the weather; after that, it's skimmed with a slicer and poured into glazed earthenware jars to "turn" for churning. Some people prefer to make a separate churning for the milk of each cow, which has some benefits. In this case, the basins for each cow would be kept together or labeled for two days. Once emptied, the pails should be scalded, every last drop of milk washed out, and stored in a dry place until they're needed again. Any milk spilled on the floor, table, or dresser should be cleaned up with a cloth and hot water. In dairies that receive a lot of attention, the milk coolers are larger in winter when it's important to slow down the cooling process and increase the creamy layer, and smaller in summer to speed it up; the ideal temperature is between 55° and 50°. In very hot weather during the summer, it can be helpful to keep the dairy fresh and cool by hanging cloths soaked in chloride of lime across the room.
2365. In some dairies it is usual to churn twice, and in others three times a week: the former produces the best butter, the other the greatest quantity. With three cows, the produce should be 27 to 30 quarts a day. The dairy-maid should churn every day when very hot, if they are in full milk, and every second day in more temperate weather; besides supplying the milk and cream required for a large establishment. The churning should always be done in the morning: the dairy-maid will find it advantageous in being at work on churning mornings by five o'clock. The operation occupies from 20 minutes to half an hour in summer, and considerably longer in winter. A steady uniform motion is necessary to produce sweet butter; neither too quick nor too slow. Rapid motion causes the cream to heave and swell, from too much air being forced into it: the result is a tedious churning, and soft, bad-coloured butter.
2365. In some dairies, it's common to churn twice a week, while in others, it's thrice: the former makes the best butter, while the latter yields the most quantity. With three cows, the output should be 27 to 30 quarts a day. The dairy worker should churn every day when it's very hot, especially if the cows are in full milk, and every other day in milder weather; additionally, they need to provide the milk and cream required for a large operation. Churning should always be done in the morning: the dairy worker will find it beneficial to start churning by five o'clock. The process takes about 20 minutes to half an hour in summer and considerably longer in winter. A steady, even motion is vital to produce sweet butter; it shouldn't be too fast or too slow. Moving too quickly causes the cream to boil and swell from too much air being forced in, resulting in prolonged churning and soft, poorly colored butter.
2366. In spring and summer, when the cow has her natural food, no artificial colour is required; but in winter, under stall-feeding, the colour is white and tallowy, and some persons prefer a higher colour. This is communicated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with the cream before putting it into the churn; a still more, natural and delicate colour is communicated by scraping a red carrot into a clean piece of linen cloth, dipping it into water, and squeezing it into the cream.
2366. In spring and summer, when the cow eats her natural diet, no artificial color is needed; but in winter, when she's fed in the stall, the color is white and fatty, and some people like it to be a richer color. You can achieve this by mixing a bit of finely powdered annatto with the cream before churning it. An even more natural and subtle color can be achieved by grating a red carrot into a clean piece of linen cloth, dipping it in water, and squeezing it into the cream.
2367. As soon as the butter comes, the milk is poured off, and the butter put into a shallow wooden tub or bowl, full of pure spring water, in which it is washed and kneaded, pouring off the water, and renewing it until it comes away perfectly free from milk. Imperfect washing is the frequent cause of bad butter, and in nothing is the skill of the dairy-maid tested more than in this process; moreover, it is one in which cleanliness of habits and person are most necessary. In this operation we want the aid of Phyllis's neat, soft, and perfectly clean hand; for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the sour particles of milk or curd.
2367. As soon as the butter is ready, the milk is poured off, and the butter is placed in a shallow wooden tub or bowl filled with pure spring water, where it is washed and kneaded, changing the water until it is completely free of milk. Poor washing is a common cause of bad butter, and the skill of the dairy maid is most tested in this process; additionally, it requires a high level of cleanliness. In this task, we need the help of Phyllis's neat, soft, and perfectly clean hands, as no mechanical process can remove the sour particles of milk or curd as well.
2368. The operations of churning and butter-making over, the butter-milk is disposed of: usually, in England, it goes to the pigs; but it is a, very wholesome beverage when fresh, and some persons like it; the disposal, therefore, will rest with the mistress: the dairy-maid's duty is to get rid of it. She must then scald with boiling water and scrub out every utensil she has used; brush out the churn, clean out the cream-jars, which will probably require the use of a little common soda to purify; wipe all dry, and place them in a position where the sun can reach them for a short time, to sweeten them.
2368. Once the churning and butter-making are done, the buttermilk is dealt with: in England, it's typically fed to the pigs, but it's actually a pretty healthy drink when fresh, and some people enjoy it; so, the decision on what to do with it is up to the lady of the house: the dairy maid's job is just to dispose of it. She then needs to scald all the utensils she used with boiling water and scrub them clean; she should brush out the churn and clean the cream jars, which might need a bit of regular soda to disinfect them; wipe everything dry and place the items where the sun can reach them for a little while to freshen them up.
2369. In Devonshire, celebrated for its dairy system, the milk is always scalded. The milk-pans, which are of tin, and contain from 10 to 12 quarts, after standing 10 or 12 hours, are placed on a hot plate of iron, over a stove, until the cream has formed on the surface, which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising through the milk, and producing blisters on the surface-coating of cream. This indicates its approach to the boiling point: and the vessel is now removed to cool. When sufficiently, that is, quite cool, the cream is skimmed off with the slice: it is now the clouted cream for which Devonshire is so famous. It is now placed in the churn, and churned until the butter comes, which it generally does in a much shorter time than by the other process. The butter so made contains more caseine than butter made in the usual way, but does not keep so long.
2369. In Devonshire, known for its dairy system, the milk is always scalded. The milk pans, which are made of tin and hold about 10 to 12 quarts, are left standing for 10 to 12 hours before being placed on a hot iron plate over a stove until cream forms on the surface. This is indicated by air bubbles rising through the milk and creating blisters on the cream layer. This means it’s getting close to boiling, so the vessel is then removed to cool down. Once it's completely cool, the cream is skimmed off with a slice; this is the clotted cream that Devonshire is famous for. The cream is then put into a churn and churned until the butter forms, which usually happens much faster than with other methods. The butter made this way contains more casein than butter made the usual way, but it doesn’t last as long.
2370. It is a question frequently discussed, how far it is economical for families to keep cows and make their own butter. It is calculated that a good cow costs from May 1 to October 1, when well but economically kept, £5. 16s. 6d; and from October 1 to April 30, £10. 2s. 6d. During that time she should produce 227 lbs. of butter, besides the skimmed milk. Of course, if new milk and cream are required, that will diminish the quantity of butter.
2370. There’s a lot of discussion about whether it’s really worth it for families to keep cows and make their own butter. It's estimated that a good cow costs around £5. 16s. 6d from May 1 to October 1 when properly but economically cared for, and from October 1 to April 30, £10. 2s. 6d. During that time, she should produce 227 lbs. of butter, plus the skimmed milk. Naturally, if fresh milk and cream are needed, that will reduce the amount of butter produced.
2371. Besides churning and keeping her dairy in order, the dairy-maid has charge of the whole produce, handing it over to the cook, butler, or housemaid as required; and she will do well to keep an exact account both of what she receives and how and when she disposes of it.
2371. In addition to churning and managing her dairy, the dairy maid is responsible for all the produce, giving it to the cook, butler, or housemaid as needed; and she should carefully track what she receives and how and when she uses it.
DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID.
2372. The laundry-maid is charged with the duty of washing and getting-up the family linen,—a situation of great importance where the washing is all done at home; but in large towns, where there is little convenience for bleaching and drying, it is chiefly done by professional laundresses and companies, who apply mechanical and chemical processes to the purpose. These processes, however, are supposed to injure the fabric of the linen; and in many families the fine linen, cottons, and muslins, are washed and got-up at home, even where the bulk of the washing is given out. In country and suburban houses, where greater conveniences exist, washing at home is more common,—in country places universal.
2372. The laundry maid is responsible for washing and taking care of the family’s linens—a very important job when all the laundry is done at home. However, in big cities, where it’s hard to bleach and dry clothes, most of the work is done by professional laundresses and companies that use machines and chemicals. These methods are thought to damage the fabric of the linens, so in many households, fine linens, cottons, and muslins are washed and cared for at home, even if most of the laundry is sent out. In rural and suburban homes, where it’s easier to do laundry, washing at home is more common—in rural areas, it’s the standard practice.
2373. The laundry establishment consists of a washing-house, an ironing and drying-room, and sometimes a drying-closet heated by furnaces. The washing-house will probably be attached to the kitchen; but it is better that it should be completely detached from it, and of one story, with a funnel or shaft to carry off the steam. It will be of a size proportioned to the extent of the washing to be done. A range of tubs, either round or oblong, opposite to, and sloping towards, the light, narrower at the bottom than the top, for convenience in stooping over, and fixed at a height suited to the convenience of the women using them; each tub having a tap for hot and cold water, and another in the bottom, communicating with the drains, for drawing off foul water. A boiler and furnace, proportioned in size to the wants of the family, should also be fixed. The flooring should be York stone, laid on brick piers, with good drainage, or asphalte, sloping gently towards a gutter connected with the drain.
2373. The laundry facility includes a washing area, an ironing and drying room, and sometimes a drying closet heated by furnaces. The washing area is likely to be attached to the kitchen, but it's better for it to be completely separate and single-story, with a vent or shaft to release steam. It should be sized according to the amount of laundry to be done. There should be a series of tubs, either round or rectangular, facing and sloping towards the light, narrower at the bottom than the top for easier bending over, and set at a height that is comfortable for the women using them. Each tub should have a tap for both hot and cold water, and another tap at the bottom that connects to the drains for removing dirty water. A boiler and furnace, sized according to the family's needs, should also be installed. The flooring should be made of York stone, laid on brick pillars, with proper drainage, or asphalt, gently sloping towards a gutter that connects to the drain.
2374. Adjoining the bleaching-house, a second room, about the same size, is required for ironing, drying, and mangling. The contents of this room should comprise an ironing-board, opposite to the light; a strong white deal table, about twelve or fourteen feet long, and about three and a half feet broad, with drawers for ironing-blankets; a mangle in one corner, and clothes-horses for drying and airing; cupboards for holding the various irons, starch, and other articles used in ironing; a hot-plate built in the chimney, with furnace beneath it for heating the irons; sometimes arranged with a flue for carrying the hot air round the room for drying. Where this is the case, however, there should be a funnel in the ceiling for ventilation and carrying off steam; but a better arrangement is to have a hot-air closet adjoining, heated by hot-air pipes, and lined with iron, with proper arrangements for carrying off steam, and clothes-horses on castors running in grooves, to run into it for drying purposes. This leaves the laundry free from unwholesome vapour.
2374. Next to the bleaching room, a second space of similar size is needed for ironing, drying, and mangling. This room should have an ironing board set up near the light; a sturdy white table about twelve to fourteen feet long and three and a half feet wide, with drawers for ironing blankets; a mangle in one corner; and drying racks for airing clothes. There should also be cupboards for storing various irons, starch, and other ironing supplies; a hot plate built into the chimney with a furnace below to heat the irons; and sometimes, it can be set up with a flue to circulate hot air around the room for drying. If this is the case, there should be a funnel in the ceiling for ventilation and to remove steam. However, a better setup is to have a hot-air closet next to it, heated by hot-air pipes, lined with iron, and equipped with steam removal arrangements, along with clothes-horses on wheels that can slide into it for drying. This keeps the laundry free from unhealthy fumes.
2375. The laundry-maid should commence her labours on Monday morning by a careful examination of the articles committed to her care, and enter them in the washing-book; separating the white linen and collars, sheets and body-linen, into one heap, fine muslins into another, coloured cotton and linen fabrics into a third, woollens into a fourth, and the coarser kitchen and other greasy cloths into a fifth. Every article should be examined for ink- or grease-spots, or for fruit- or wine-stains. Ink-spots are removed by dipping the part into hot water, and then spreading it smoothly on the hand or on the back of a spoon, pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of sorel over the ink-spot, rubbing and rinsing it in cold water till removed; grease-spots, by rubbing over with yellow soap, and rinsing in hot water; fruit- and wine-spots, by dipping in a solution of sal ammonia or spirits of wine, and rinsing.
2375. The laundry attendant should start her tasks on Monday morning by carefully checking the items entrusted to her and recording them in the washing book. She should separate the white linens and collars, sheets, and undergarments into one pile, fine muslins into another, colored cotton and linen fabrics into a third, woolens into a fourth, and the coarser kitchen and greasy cloths into a fifth. Each item should be inspected for ink or grease stains, as well as for fruit or wine stains. Ink stains can be removed by dipping the affected area in hot water, then smoothing it out on her hand or the back of a spoon, pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salt of sorrel over the spot, and rubbing and rinsing it in cold water until it's gone. Grease stains can be tackled by rubbing with yellow soap and rinsing in hot water. For fruit and wine stains, dip the item in a solution of ammonia or spirits of wine, then rinse.
2376. Every article having been examined and assorted, the sheets and fine linen should be placed in one of the tubs and just covered with lukewarm water, in which a little soda has been dissolved and mixed, and left there to soak till the morning. The greasy cloths and dirtier things should be laid to soak in another tub, in a liquor composed of 1/2 lb. of unslaked lime to every 6 quarts of water which has been boiled for two hours, then left to settle, and strained off when clear. Each article should be rinsed in this liquor to wet it thoroughly, and left to soak till the morning, just covered by it when the things are pressed together. Coppers and boilers should now be filled, and the fires laid ready to light.
2376. Once every item has been examined and sorted, the sheets and fine linens should be placed in one of the tubs and just covered with lukewarm water mixed with a little dissolved soda, letting them soak overnight. The greasy cloths and dirtier items should be soaked in another tub filled with a mixture of 1/2 lb. of unslaked lime for every 6 quarts of water that has been boiled for two hours, then allowed to settle, and strained until clear. Each item should be thoroughly rinsed in this mixture and soaked overnight, just covered by it when the items are pressed together. Now, fill the coppers and boilers, and prepare the fires to be lit.
2377. Early on the following morning the fires should be lighted, and as soon as hot water can be procured, washing commenced; the sheets and body-linen being wanted to whiten in the morning, should be taken first; each article being removed in succession from the lye in which it has been soaking, rinsed, rubbed, and wrung, and laid aside until the tub is empty, when the foul water is drawn off. The tub should be again filled with luke-warm water, about 80°, in which the articles should again be plunged, and each gone over carefully with soap, and rubbed. Novices in the art sometimes rub the linen against the skin; more experienced washerwomen rub one linen surface against the other, which saves their hands, and enables them to continue their labour much longer, besides economizing time, two parts being thus cleaned at once.
2377. Early the next morning, the fires should be lit, and as soon as hot water is ready, washing should begin. The sheets and body linens that need to be whitened in the morning should be taken first. Each item should be removed one by one from the lye where it has been soaking, rinsed, scrubbed, and wrung out, then set aside until the tub is empty, at which point the dirty water is drained. The tub should be filled again with lukewarm water, around 80°, where the items should be submerged again and each one carefully scrubbed with soap. Beginners in this task sometimes rub the linen against their skin; more experienced washers rub one piece of linen against another, which saves their hands and allows them to work longer, also saving time since two parts are cleaned at once.
2378. After this first washing, the linen should be put into a second water as hot as the hand can bear, and again rubbed over in every part, examining every part for spots not yet moved, which require to be again soaped over and rubbed till thoroughly clean; then rinsed and wrung, the larger and stronger articles by two of the women; the smaller and more delicate articles requiring gentler treatment.
2378. After the first wash, the linen should be placed in a second batch of water as hot as you can handle, and then rubbed all over again, checking every area for any spots that haven't been cleaned yet, which need to be soaped and scrubbed until they're completely clean. Then rinse and wring out the linen, with two women handling the larger and sturdier items, while the smaller and more delicate pieces need to be treated more gently.
2379. In order to remove every particle of soap, and produce a good colour, they should now be placed, and boiled for about an hour and a half in the copper, in which soda, in the proportion of a teaspoonful to every two gallons of water, has been dissolved. Some very careful laundresses put the linen into a canvas bag to protect it from the scum and the sides of the copper. When taken out, it should again be rinsed, first in clean hot water, and then in abundance of cold water slightly tinged with fig-blue, and again wrung dry. It should now be removed from the washing-house and hung up to dry or spread out to bleach, if there are conveniences for it; and the earlier in the day this is done, the clearer and whiter will be the linen.
2379. To remove all traces of soap and achieve a good color, they should be placed in the copper and boiled for about an hour and a half, with a teaspoon of soda dissolved in every two gallons of water. Some very meticulous laundresses use a canvas bag to protect the linen from scum and the sides of the copper. After boiling, it should be rinsed again, first in clean hot water, then in plenty of cold water with a slight hint of fig-blue, and wrung out once more. It should then be taken out of the washing area and hung up to dry or spread out to bleach, if possible; the earlier this is done in the day, the clearer and whiter the linen will be.
2380. Coloured muslins, cottons, and linens, require a milder treatment; any application of soda will discharge the colour, and soaking all night, even in pure water, deteriorates the more delicate tints. When ready for washing, if not too dirty, they should be put into cold water and washed very speedily, using the common yellow soap, which should be rinsed off immediately. One article should be washed at a time, and rinsed out immediately before any others are wetted. When washed thoroughly, they should be rinsed in succession in soft water, in which common salt has been dissolved, in the proportion of a handful to three or four gallons, and afterwards wrung gently, as soon as rinsed, with as little twisting as possible, and then hung out to dry. Delicate-coloured articles should not be exposed to the sun, but dried in the shade, using clean lines and wooden pegs.
2380. Colored muslins, cottons, and linens need gentler care; any use of soda will fade the color, and soaking them overnight, even in pure water, can damage the more delicate shades. When you're ready to wash them, if they aren't too dirty, place them in cold water and wash them quickly using regular yellow soap, rinsing it off immediately. Wash one item at a time, and rinse it right away before getting any others wet. Once thoroughly washed, rinse them in order with soft water mixed with common salt, using about a handful of salt for every three or four gallons of water. After rinsing, gently wring them out with minimal twisting, then hang them up to dry. Light-colored items should not be dried in direct sunlight; instead, dry them in the shade, using clean lines and wooden pegs.
2381. Woollen articles are liable to shrink, unless the flannel has been well shrunk before making up. This liability is increased where very hot water is used: cold water would thus be the best to wash woollens in; but, as this would not remove the dirt, lukewarm water, about 85°, and yellow soap, are recommended. When thoroughly washed in this, they require a good deal of rinsing in cold water, to remove the soap.
2381. Wool garments are prone to shrinking unless the flannel has been pre-shrunk properly. This risk increases with the use of very hot water; therefore, cold water is the best option for washing wool items. However, since cold water doesn't effectively remove dirt, lukewarm water, around 85°F, along with yellow soap, is recommended. After washing thoroughly in this solution, they need to be rinsed well in cold water to get rid of the soap.
2382. Greasy cloths, which have soaked all night in the liquid described, should be now washed out with soap-and-water as hot as the hands can bear, first in one water, and rinsed out in a second; and afterwards boiled for two hours in water in which a little soda is dissolved. When taken out, they should be rinsed in cold water, and laid out or hung up to dry.
2382. Greasy cloths that have soaked all night in the liquid mentioned should now be washed with soap and hot water as hot as you can handle, first in one basin and rinsed in another. Then, they should be boiled for two hours in water with a little soda dissolved in it. After taking them out, rinse them in cold water and lay them out or hang them up to dry.
2383. Silk handkerchiefs require to be washed alone. When they contain snuff, they should be soaked by themselves in lukewarm water two or three hours; they should be rinsed out and put to soak with the others in cold water for an hour or two; then washed in lukewarm water, being soaped as they are washed. If this does not remove all stains, they should be washed a second time in similar water, and, when finished, rinsed in soft water in which a handful of common salt has been dissolved. In washing stuff or woollen dresses, the band at the waist and the lining at the bottom should be removed, and wherever it is gathered into folds; and, in furniture, the hems and gatherings. A black silk dress, if very dirty, must be washed; but, if only soiled, soaking for four-and-twenty hours will do; if old and rusty, a pint of common spirits should be mixed with each gallon of water, which is an improvement under any circumstances. Whether soaked or washed, it should be hung up to drain, and dried without wringing.
2383. Silk handkerchiefs should be washed on their own. If they have snuff on them, soak them alone in lukewarm water for two to three hours. Then rinse them out and soak with the other handkerchiefs in cold water for another hour or two. After that, wash them in lukewarm water while soaping them as you wash. If any stains remain, wash them again in the same lukewarm water, and when done, rinse in soft water mixed with a handful of common salt. When washing fabric or wool dresses, remove the waistband and the lining at the bottom, as well as any places where the fabric is gathered. For furniture, deal with the hems and gathers. A black silk dress that is very dirty should be washed; however, if it's just a little soiled, soaking for 24 hours will be fine. If the dress is old and faded, add a pint of common spirits for each gallon of water; this helps in any case. Whether soaked or washed, hang it up to drain, and let it dry without wringing.
2384. Satin and silk ribbons, both white and coloured, may be cleaned in the same manner.
2384. Satin and silk ribbons, both white and colored, can be cleaned in the same way.
2385. Silks, when washed, should be dried in the shade, on a linen-horse, taking care that they are kept smooth and unwrinkled. If black or blue, they will be improved if laid again on the table, when dry, and sponged with gin, or whiskey, or other white spirit.
2385. Silks, when washed, should be dried in the shade on a linen horse, making sure they stay smooth and wrinkle-free. If they're black or blue, they'll look better if you lay them flat on the table when dry and sponge them with gin, whiskey, or another clear spirit.
2386. The operations should be concluded by rinsing the tubs, cleaning the coppers, scrubbing the floors of the washing-house, and restoring everything to order and cleanliness.
2386. The operations should end by rinsing the tubs, cleaning the coppers, scrubbing the floors of the washing house, and putting everything back in order and clean.
2387. Thursday and Friday, in a laundry in full employ, are usually devoted to mangling, starching, and ironing.
2387. Thursday and Friday, in a busy laundry, are usually dedicated to mangling, starching, and ironing.
2388. Linen, cotton, and other fabrics, after being washed and dried, are made smooth and glossy by mangling and by ironing. The mangling process, which is simply passing them between rollers subjected to a very considerable pressure, produced by weight, is confined to sheets, towels, table-linen, and similar articles, which are without folds or plaits. Ironing is necessary to smooth body-linen, and made-up articles of delicate texture or gathered into folds. The mangle is too well known to need description.
2388. Linen, cotton, and other fabrics, after being washed and dried, are made smooth and shiny by using a mangle and ironing. The mangle process, which involves passing the fabrics between rollers under a lot of pressure from weight, is used for sheets, towels, table linens, and similar items that don't have folds or pleats. Ironing is necessary to smooth body linen and delicate finished items that are gathered into folds. The mangle is too familiar to require description.
2389. Ironing.—The irons consist of the common flat-iron, which is of different sizes, varying from 4 to 10 inches in length, triangular in form, and from 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches in width at the broad end; the oval iron, which is used for more delicate articles; and the box-iron, which is hollow, and heated by a red-hot iron inserted into the box. The Italian iron is a hollow tube, smooth on the outside, and raised on a slender pedestal with a footstalk. Into the hollow cylinder a red-hot iron is pushed, which heats it; and the smooth outside of the latter is used, on which articles such as frills, and plaited articles, are drawn. Crimping- and gauffering-machines are used for a kind of plaiting where much regularity is required, the articles being passed through two iron rollers fluted so as to represent the kind of plait or fold required.
2389. Ironing.—The irons include the standard flat iron, which comes in various sizes ranging from 4 to 10 inches in length and is triangular in shape, with widths from 2.5 to 4.5 inches at the wider end; the oval iron, designed for more delicate fabrics; and the box iron, which is hollow and heated by inserting a red-hot iron into the box. The Italian iron is a hollow tube, smooth on the outside, and elevated on a slender pedestal with a foot. A red-hot iron is pushed into the hollow cylinder to heat it, and the smooth surface is used for items like frills and pleated fabrics. Crimping and gauffering machines are utilized for a type of pleating that requires precision, with items passing through two fluted iron rollers that create the desired pleat or fold.
2390. Starching is a process by which stiffness is communicated to certain parts of linen, as the collar and front of shirts, by dipping them in a paste made of starch boiled in water, mixed with a little gum Arabic, where extra stiffness is required.
2390. Starching is a method that adds stiffness to specific areas of linen, like the collar and front of shirts, by soaking them in a paste made from starch boiled in water, combined with a bit of gum Arabic when more stiffness is needed.
TO MAKE STARCH.
2391. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 1/2 pint of cold water and 1 quart of boiling water to every 2 tablespoonfuls of starch.
2391. INGREDIENTS.—Use 1/2 pint of cold water and 1 quart of boiling water for every 2 tablespoons of starch.
Mode.—Put the starch into a tolerably large basin; pour over it the cold water, and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it is perfectly free from lumps, and quite smooth. Then take the basin to the fire, and whilst the water is actually boiling in the kettle or boiler, pour it over the starch, stirring it the whole time. If made properly in this manner, the starch will require no further boiling; but should the water not be boiling when added to the starch, it will not thicken, and must be put into a clean saucepan, and stirred over the fire until it boils. Take it off the fire, strain it into a clean basin, cover it up to prevent a skin forming on the top, and, when sufficiently cool that the hand may be borne in it, starch the things. Many persons, to give a shiny and smooth appearance to the linen when ironed, stir round two or three times in the starch a piece of wax candle, which also prevents the iron from sticking.
Mode.—Put the starch into a reasonably large bowl; pour cold water over it, and mix it well with a wooden spoon until it's completely lump-free and smooth. Next, take the bowl to the stove, and while the water is actually boiling in the kettle or pot, pour it over the starch while stirring continuously. If done correctly this way, the starch won’t need any more boiling; but if the water isn’t boiling when you add it to the starch, it won’t thicken and you'll need to transfer it to a clean saucepan and stir it over heat until it boils. Remove it from the heat, strain it into a clean bowl, cover it to avoid a skin forming on top, and when it’s cool enough to touch, use it to starch your items. Many people to achieve a shiny and smooth look on the linen when ironing will stir a piece of wax candle in the starch a few times, which also helps prevent the iron from sticking.
2392. When the "things to be starched" are washed, dried, and taken off the lines, they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed, squeezed out of it, and then just dipped into cold water, and immediately squeezed dry. If fine things be wrung, or roughly used, they are very liable to tear; so too much care cannot be exercised in this respect. If the article is lace, clap it between the hands a few times, which will assist to clear it; then have ready laid out on the table a large clean towel or cloth; shake out the starched things, lay them on the cloth, and roll it up tightly, and let it remain for three or fours, when the things will be ready to iron.
2392. When the items that need starching are washed, dried, and taken off the lines, they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed, squeezed out, and then quickly dipped into cold water before being squeezed dry. If delicate items are wrung out or handled roughly, they are likely to tear, so it’s important to be gentle. If the item is lace, gently clap it between your hands a few times to help clear it. Then have a large clean towel or cloth ready on the table; shake out the starched items, lay them on the cloth, and roll it up tightly. Let it sit for three to four hours, and the items will be ready to iron.
2393. To be able to iron properly requires much practice and experience. Strict cleanliness with all the ironing utensils must be observed, as, if this is not the case, not the most expert ironer will be able to make her things look clear and free from smears, &c. After wiping down her ironing table, the laundry-maid should place a coarse cloth on it, and over that the ironing-blanket, with her stand and iron-rubber; and having ascertained that her irons are quite clean and of the right heat, she proceeds with her work.
2393. To iron properly takes a lot of practice and experience. It’s important to keep all the ironing tools clean because if not, even the best ironer won’t be able to make her clothes look clear and free from smudges, etc. After cleaning her ironing table, the laundry maid should put down a coarse cloth, then lay the ironing blanket on top, along with her stand and iron rubber. Once she’s ensured that her irons are completely clean and at the right temperature, she can start her work.
2394. It is a good plan to try the heat of the iron on a coarse cloth or apron before ironing anything fine: there is then no danger of scorching. For ironing fine things, such as collars, cuffs, muslins, and laces, there is nothing so clean and nice to use as the box-iron; the bottom being bright, and never placed near the fire, it is always perfectly clean; it should, however, be kept in a dry place, for fear of its rusting. Gauffering-tongs or irons must be placed in a clear fire for a minute, then withdrawn, wiped with a coarse rubber, and the heat of them tried on a piece of paper, as, unless great care is taken, these will very soon scorch.
2394. It's a good idea to test the heat of the iron on a coarse cloth or apron before ironing anything delicate; this way, you won’t risk scorching. For ironing finer items like collars, cuffs, muslins, and laces, nothing works better than a box iron; its bottom is smooth and never gets close to the fire, so it stays perfectly clean. However, it should be stored in a dry place to prevent rust. Gauffering tongs or irons need to be placed in a clear fire for a minute, then taken out, wiped with a coarse cloth, and their heat tested on a piece of paper, because if you're not careful, they can scorch quickly.
2395. The skirts of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt-board covered with flannel, and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board, also covered with flannel; this board being placed between the back and front.
2395. The hems of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt board covered with flannel, and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board, also covered with flannel; this board should be placed between the back and front.
2396. After things are mangled, they should also be ironed in the folds and gathers; dinner-napkins smoothed over, as also table-cloths, pillow-cases, and sometimes sheets. The bands of flannel petticoats, and shoulder-straps to flannel waistcoats, must also undergo the same process.
2396. After textiles are wrinkled, they should also be smoothed out in the folds and gathers; dinner napkins need to be pressed, as do tablecloths, pillowcases, and sometimes sheets. The bands of flannel petticoats and shoulder straps of flannel vests must also go through the same process.
UPPER AND UNDER NURSEMAIDS.
2397. The nursery is of great importance in every family, and in families of distinction, where there are several young children, it is an establishment kept apart from the rest of the family, under the charge of an upper nurse, assisted by under nursery-maids proportioned to the work to be done. The responsible duties of upper nursemaid commence with the weaning of the child: it must now be separated from the mother or wet-nurse, at least for a time, and the cares of the nursemaid, which have hitherto been only occasionally put in requisition, are now to be entirely devoted to the infant. She washes, dresses, and feeds it; walks out with it, and regulates all its little wants; and, even at this early age, many good qualities are required to do so in a satisfactory manner. Patience and good temper are indispensable qualities; truthfulness, purity of manners, minute cleanliness, and docility and obedience, almost equally so. She ought also to be acquainted with the art of ironing and trimming little caps, and be handy with her needle.
2397. The nursery is very important in every family, and in well-to-do families with several young children, it’s a separate space away from the rest of the household, managed by a head nurse, supported by junior nursery maids based on the tasks at hand. The main responsibilities of the head nurse begin when the child is weaned: the child must now be distanced from its mother or wet-nurse, at least for a while, and the nurse’s duties, which were previously only needed occasionally, are now fully focused on the infant. She bathes, dresses, and feeds the baby; takes it for walks; and tends to all its little needs. Even at this young age, many positive traits are required to do this well. Patience and a good attitude are essential qualities; honesty, decent behavior, meticulous cleanliness, and a willingness to learn and follow instructions are almost equally important. She should also know how to iron and decorate small caps and be skilled with a needle.
2398. There is a considerable art in carrying an infant comfortably for itself and for the nursemaid. If she carry it always seated upright on her arm, and presses it too closely against her chest, the stomach of the child is apt to get compressed, and the back fatigued. For her own comfort, a good nurse will frequently vary this position, by changing from one arm to the other, and sometimes by laying it across both, raising the head a little. When teaching it to walk, and guiding it by the hand, she should change the hand from time to time, so as to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other. This is the only way in which a child should be taught to walk; leading-strings and other foolish inventions, which force an infant to make efforts, with its shoulders and head forward, before it knows how to use its limbs, will only render it feeble, and retard its progress.
2398. There’s a definite skill in carrying a baby comfortably for both the child and the caregiver. If she always holds it sitting upright on her arm and presses it too tightly against her chest, the baby's stomach can get squished, and its back can become tired. For her own comfort, a good caregiver will often change this position by switching arms and sometimes laying the baby across both, raising the head a little. When teaching the baby to walk and guiding it by the hand, she should switch hands now and then to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other. This is the best way for a child to learn to walk; using harnesses and other silly devices that force a baby to lean forward before it knows how to use its limbs will only make it weak and slow down its progress.
2399. Most children have some bad habit, of which they must be broken; but this is never accomplished by harshness without developing worse evils: kindness, perseverance, and patience in the nurse, are here of the utmost importance. When finger-sucking is one of these habits, the fingers are sometimes rubbed with bitter aloes, or some equally disagreeable substance. Others have dirty habits, which are only to be changed by patience, perseverance, and, above all, by regularity in the nurse. She should never be permitted to inflict punishment on these occasions, or, indeed, on any occasion. But, if punishment is to be avoided, it is still more necessary that all kinds of indulgences and flattery be equally forbidden. Yielding to all the whims of a child,—picking up its toys when thrown away in mere wantonness, would be intolerable. A child should never be led to think others inferior to it, to beat a dog, or even the stone against which it falls, as some children are taught to do by silly nurses. Neither should the nurse affect or show alarm at any of the little accidents which must inevitably happen: if it falls, treat it as a trifle; otherwise she encourages a spirit of cowardice and timidity. But she will take care that such accidents are not of frequent occurrence, or the result of neglect.
2399. Most kids have some bad habits that they need to break, but doing this harshly usually just makes things worse. Kindness, persistence, and patience from the caregiver are extremely important here. If finger-sucking is one of these habits, sometimes the fingers are rubbed with bitter substances to discourage it. Some kids have dirty habits that can only be changed with patience, perseverance, and, above all, consistency from the caregiver. She should never be allowed to punish the child in these situations or in any situations. However, while we should avoid punishment, it's just as important to ban indulgences and flattery. Giving in to all the whims of a child—like picking up their toys when they throw them out of sheer whims—would be unacceptable. A child should never be led to think they're better than others or to hurt animals or even things around them, as some kids are taught by foolish caregivers. The caregiver also shouldn't show alarm at the little accidents that are bound to happen: if the child falls, it should be treated as a minor issue; otherwise, it fosters a sense of cowardice and fear. But she should ensure that such accidents don't happen frequently or as a result of neglect.
2400. The nurse should keep the child as clean as possible, and particularly she should train it to habits of cleanliness, so that it should feel uncomfortable when otherwise; watching especially that it does not soil itself in eating. At the same time, vanity in its personal appearance is not to be encouraged by over-care in this respect, or by too tight lacing or buttoning of dresses, nor a small foot cultivated by the use of tight shoes.
2400. The nurse should keep the child as clean as possible and especially train it to have good hygiene habits, so that it feels uncomfortable when it’s not clean; she should pay particular attention to make sure it doesn’t get messy while eating. At the same time, there shouldn’t be an emphasis on vanity regarding personal appearance through excessive care, tight clothing, or small feet created by tight shoes.
2401. Nursemaids would do well to repeat to the parents faithfully and truly the defects they observe in the dispositions of very young children. If properly checked in time, evil propensities may be eradicated; but this should not extend to anything but serious defects; otherwise, the intuitive perceptions which all children possess will construe the act into "spying" and "informing," which should never be resorted to in the case of children, nor, indeed, in any case.
2401. Nursemaids should make sure to honestly and accurately report to the parents any flaws they notice in the behavior of very young children. If addressed early, negative tendencies can be eliminated; but this should only apply to serious issues. Otherwise, the natural instincts that all children have might interpret the action as "spying" and "telling on" them, which should never happen with children, or in any situation, for that matter.
2402. Such are the cares which devolve upon the nursemaid, and it is her duty to fulfil them personally. In large establishments she will have assistants proportioned to the number of children of which she has the care. The under nursemaid lights the fires, sweeps, scours, and dusts the rooms, and makes the beds; empties slops, and carries up water; brings up and removes the nursery meals; washes and dresses all the children, except the infant, and assists in mending. Where there is a nursery girl to assist, she does the rougher part of the cleaning; and all take their meals in the nursery together, after the children of the family have done.
2402. These are the responsibilities that fall on the nanny, and it's her job to handle them personally. In larger households, she'll have assistants based on the number of children she looks after. The junior nanny lights the fires, sweeps, scrubs, and dusts the rooms, and makes the beds; she empties the waste, carries water upstairs; brings in and takes away the children's meals; washes and dresses all the kids, except for the baby, and helps with repairs. If there’s a nursery girl to help, she takes care of the heavier cleaning; and everyone eats their meals together in the nursery after the family’s children have finished.
2403. In smaller families, where there is only one nursemaid kept, she is assisted by the housemaid, or servant-of-all-work, who will do the rougher part of the work, and carry up the nursery meals. In such circumstances she will be more immediately under the eye of her mistress, who will probably relieve her from some of the cares of the infant. In higher families, the upper nurse is usually permitted to sup or dine occasionally at the housekeeper's table by way of relaxation, when the children are all well, and her subordinates trustworthy.
2403. In smaller families, where there’s only one nanny, she gets help from the housemaid or a general servant, who does the heavier tasks and brings the nursery meals upstairs. In this setup, the nanny is more likely to be closely supervised by the lady of the house, who will probably take some of the baby’s care off her hands. In wealthier families, the head nanny is often allowed to eat dinner or have a meal sometimes at the housekeeper's table for a break, when the kids are all healthy and her assistants can be trusted.
2404. Where the nurse has the entire charge of the nursery, and the mother is too much occupied to do more than pay a daily visit to it, it is desirable that she be a person of observation, and possess some acquaintance with the diseases incident to childhood, as also with such simple remedies as may be useful before a medical attendant can be procured, or where such attendance is not considered necessary. All these little ailments are preceded by symptoms so minute as to be only perceptible to close observation; such as twitching of the brows, restless sleep, grinding the gums, and, in some inflammatory diseases, even to the child abstaining from crying, from fear of the increased pain produced by the movement. Dentition, or cutting the teeth, is attended with many of these symptoms. Measles, thrush, scarlatina, croup, hooping-cough, and other childish complaints, are all preceded by well-known symptoms, which may be alleviated and rendered less virulent by simple remedies instantaneously applied.
2404. When the nurse is completely in charge of the nursery and the mother is too busy to do more than visit daily, it's important for her to be observant and have some knowledge of common childhood illnesses, as well as some simple remedies that can help before a doctor can be reached, or when medical help isn't deemed necessary. All these minor ailments start with symptoms that are so subtle they can only be noticed with close observation, like twitching eyebrows, restless sleep, grinding of the gums, and, in some inflammatory conditions, the child may even stop crying due to fear that moving will cause more pain. Teething is accompanied by many of these symptoms. Measles, thrush, scarlet fever, croup, whooping cough, and other childhood ailments also have well-known symptoms that can be soothed and made less severe with simple remedies applied immediately.
2405. Dentition is usually the first serious trouble, bringing many other disorders in its train. The symptoms are most perceptible to the mother: the child sucks feebly, and with gums hot, inflamed, and swollen. In this case, relief is yielded by rubbing them from time to time with a little of Mrs. Johnson's soothing syrup, a valuable and perfectly safe medicine. Selfish and thoughtless nurses, and mothers too, sometimes give cordials and sleeping-draughts, whose effects are too well known.
2405. Dentition is often the first significant issue, leading to many other problems. The symptoms are most noticeable to the mother: the child suckles weakly, and their gums are hot, swollen, and inflamed. In this case, relief can be found by gently rubbing them from time to time with a bit of Mrs. Johnson's soothing syrup, which is a valuable and completely safe remedy. Selfish and careless nurses, and mothers as well, sometimes administer cordials and sleeping medications, whose effects are all too well understood.
2406. Convulsion Fits sometimes follow the feverish restlessness produced by these causes; in which case a hot bath should be administered without delay, and the lower parts of the body rubbed, the bath being as hot as it can be without scalding the tender skin; at the same time, the doctor should be sent for immediately, for no nurse should administer medicine in this case, unless the fits have been repeated and the doctor has left directions with her how to act.
2406. Convulsion Fits can sometimes happen after the feverish restlessness caused by these issues; in that case, a hot bath should be given right away, and the lower parts of the body should be rubbed, with the bath being as hot as possible without burning the sensitive skin. At the same time, a doctor should be called immediately, as no nurse should give any medication in this situation unless the fits have happened multiple times and the doctor has provided instructions on how to proceed.
2407. Croup is one of the most alarming diseases of childhood; it is accompanied with a hoarse, croaking, ringing cough, and comes on very suddenly, and most so in strong, robust children. A very hot bath should be instantly administered, followed by an emetic, either in the form of tartar-emetic, croup-powder, or a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha, wrapping the body warmly up in flannel after the bath. The slightest delay in administering the bath, or the emetic, may be fatal; hence, the importance of nurses about very young children being acquainted with the symptoms.
2407. Croup is one of the most concerning illnesses in children; it comes with a hoarse, croaky, ringing cough and starts very suddenly, especially in strong, healthy kids. A very hot bath should be given immediately, followed by an emetic, which can be tartar-emetic, croup-powder, or a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha, and the child's body should be wrapped warmly in flannel after the bath. Any delay in giving the bath or the emetic can be dangerous; therefore, it’s crucial for caregivers of young children to recognize the symptoms.
2408. Hooping-Cough is generally preceded by the moaning noise during sleep, which even adults threatened with the disorder cannot avoid: it is followed by violent fits of coughing, which little can be done to relieve. A child attacked by this disorder should be kept as much as possible in the fresh, pure air, but out of draughts, and kept warm, and supplied with plenty of nourishing food. Many fatal diseases flow from this scourge of childhood, and a change to purer air, if possible, should follow convalescence.
2408. Whooping cough usually starts with a moaning sound during sleep, which even adults at risk of the illness can’t avoid. This is followed by severe coughing fits, which are hard to relieve. A child suffering from this condition should be kept in fresh, clean air as much as possible, but also protected from drafts, kept warm, and provided with plenty of nutritious food. Many serious illnesses can arise from this childhood affliction, and if possible, a change to cleaner air should happen after recovery.
2409. Worms are the torment of some children: the symptoms are, an unnatural craving for food, even after a full meal; costiveness, suddenly followed by the reverse; fetid breath, a livid circle under the eyes, enlarged abdomen, and picking the nose; for which the remedies must be prescribed by the doctor.
2409. Worms are a nuisance for some children: the symptoms include an unnatural craving for food, even after a full meal; constipation, suddenly followed by diarrhea; bad breath, dark circles under the eyes, a swollen belly, and itching or picking at the nose; for which remedies should be prescribed by a doctor.
2410. Measles and Scarlatina much resemble each other in their early stages: headache, restlessness, and fretfulness are the symptoms of both. Shivering fits, succeeded by a hot skin; pains in the back and limbs, accompanied by sickness, and, in severe cases, sore throat; pain about the jaws, difficulty in swallowing, running at the eyes, which become red and inflamed, while the face is hot and flushed, often distinguish scarlatina and scarlet fever, of which it is only a mild form.
2410. Measles and Scarlet Fever are quite similar in their early stages: both present symptoms like headache, restlessness, and irritability. You may experience shivering episodes, followed by a warm skin; aches in the back and limbs, along with nausea, and in more severe cases, a sore throat; pain around the jaws, trouble swallowing, and watery eyes that become red and inflamed, all while the face is hot and flushed, which often indicates scarlet fever, of which it is just a milder version.
2411. While the case is doubtful, a dessert-spoonful of spirit of nitre diluted in water, given at bedtime, will throw the child into a gentle perspiration, and will bring out the rash in either case. In measles, this appears first on the face; in scarlatina, on the chest; and in both cases a doctor should be called in. In scarlatina, tartar-emetic powder or ipecacuanha may be administered in the mean time.
2411. Although the situation is uncertain, giving a tablespoon of nitre spirit mixed with water at bedtime will help the child sweat gently and will bring out the rash in both cases. In measles, the rash first appears on the face; in scarlet fever, it appears on the chest; and in both instances, a doctor should be consulted. In scarlet fever, tartar emetic powder or ipecac may be given in the meantime.
2412. In all cases, cleanliness, fresh air, clean utensils, and frequent washing of the person, both of nurse and children, are even more necessary in the nursery than in either drawing-room or sick-room, inasmuch as the delicate organs of childhood are more susceptible of injury from smells and vapours than adults.
2412. In all situations, cleanliness, fresh air, clean tools, and regular washing of both the caregiver and children are even more important in the nursery than in either the living room or the sick room, since the sensitive bodies of children are more prone to harm from odors and fumes compared to adults.
2413. It may not be out of place if we conclude this brief notice of the duties of a nursemaid, by an extract from Florence Nightingale's admirable "Notes on Nursing." Referring to children, she says:—
2413. It might be fitting to wrap up this short overview of a nursemaid's duties with a quote from Florence Nightingale's excellent "Notes on Nursing." Talking about children, she says:—
2414. "They are much more susceptible than grown people to all noxious influences. They are affected by the same things, but much more quickly and seriously; by want of fresh air, of proper warmth; want of cleanliness in house, clothes, bedding, or body; by improper food, want of punctuality, by dulness, by want of light, by too much or too little covering in bed or when up." And all this in health; and then she quotes a passage from a lecture on sudden deaths in infancy, to show the importance of careful nursing of children:—"In the great majority of instances, when death suddenly befalls the infant or young child, it is an accident; it is not a necessary, inevitable result of any disease. That which is known to injure children most seriously is foul air; keeping the rooms where they sleep closely shut up is destruction to them; and, if the child's breathing be disordered by disease, a few hours only of such foul air may endanger its life, even where no inconvenience is felt by grown-up persons in the room."
2414. "They are much more vulnerable than adults to harmful influences. They are impacted by the same factors, but much more quickly and seriously; by lack of fresh air, proper warmth; by uncleanliness in the home, clothes, bedding, or on their bodies; by unhealthy food, lack of routine, dullness, lack of light, or too much or too little covering in bed or when up." And all this in good health; and then she quotes a passage from a lecture on sudden infant deaths to emphasize the importance of careful child nursing:—"In the vast majority of cases, when death suddenly occurs in an infant or young child, it is an accident; it is not a necessary, inevitable outcome of any illness. What is known to harm children the most is bad air; keeping the rooms where they sleep tightly closed is harmful to them; and, if the child's breathing is disturbed by illness, just a few hours of such bad air may threaten its life, even when no discomfort is felt by adults in the room."
2415. Persons moving in the beat society will see, after perusing Miss Nightingale's book, that this "foul air," "want of light," "too much or too little clothing," and improper food, is not confined to Crown Street or St. Giles's; that Belgravia and the squares have their north room, where the rays of the sun never reach. "A wooden bedstead, two or three mattresses piled up to above the height of the table, a vallance attached to the frame,—nothing but a miracle could ever thoroughly dry or air such a bed and bedding,"—is the ordinary bed of a private house, than which nothing can be more unwholesome. "Don't treat your children like sick," she sums up; "don't dose them with tea. Let them eat meat and drink milk, or half a glass of light beer. Give them fresh, light, sunny, and open rooms, cool bedrooms, plenty of outdoor exercise, facing even the cold, and wind, and weather, in sufficiently warm clothes, and with sufficient exercise, plenty of amusements and play; more liberty, and less schooling, and cramming, and training; more attention to food and less to physic."
2415. People living in the working-class neighborhoods will notice, after reading Miss Nightingale's book, that this "foul air," "lack of light," "too much or too little clothing," and poor food isn’t just a problem for Crown Street or St. Giles's; that Belgravia and the squares have their own dark rooms where sunlight never reaches. "A wooden bed, two or three mattresses stacked higher than the table, a valance attached to the frame—nothing short of a miracle could ever fully dry or air such a bed and bedding," is the typical bed in a private house, and nothing could be more unhealthy. "Don’t treat your children like they’re ill," she concludes; "don’t dose them with tea. Let them eat meat and drink milk, or half a glass of light beer. Provide them with fresh, bright, sunny, and open rooms, cool bedrooms, plenty of outdoor play, facing even the cold, wind, and weather, dressed warmly enough, with plenty of exercise, fun, and playtime; more freedom, and less schooling, cramming, and training; more focus on food and less on medicine."
DUTIES OF THE SICK-NURSE.
2416. All women are likely, at some period of their lives, to be called on to perform the duties of a sick-nurse, and should prepare themselves as much as possible, by observation and reading, for the occasion when they may be required to perform the office. The main requirements are good temper, compassion for suffering, sympathy with sufferers, which most women worthy of the name possess, neat-handedness, quiet manners, love of order, and cleanliness. With these qualifications there will be very little to be wished for; the desire to relieve suffering will inspire a thousand little attentions, and surmount the disgusts which some of the offices attending the sick-room are apt to create. Where serious illness visits a household, and protracted nursing is likely to become necessary, a professional nurse will probably be engaged, who has been trained to its duties; but in some families, and those not a few let us hope, the ladies of the family would oppose such an arrangement as a failure of duty on their part. There is, besides, even when a professional nurse is ultimately called in, a period of doubt and hesitation, while disease has not yet developed itself, when the patient must be attended to; and, in these cases, some of the female servants of the establishment must give their attendance in the sick-room. There are, also, slight attacks of cold, influenza, and accidents in a thousand forms, to which all are subject, where domestic nursing becomes a necessity; where disease, though unattended with danger, is nevertheless accompanied by the nervous irritation incident to illness, and when all the attention of the domestic nurse becomes necessary.
2416. All women are likely, at some point in their lives, to be called upon to take on the responsibilities of a caregiver for the sick, and they should prepare themselves as much as possible, through observation and reading, for the time when they may need to step into this role. The main requirements are a good attitude, compassion for those suffering, empathy for others, which most women deserving of the title possess, neatness, calm demeanor, a love for order, and cleanliness. With these qualities, there will be very little more to wish for; the desire to alleviate suffering will inspire countless small acts of kindness and help overcome the unpleasantness that some tasks in a sickroom can create. When serious illness strikes a household and extended care is likely to be needed, a professional nurse will probably be hired, someone trained in these duties; however, in some families—let's hope it's not too rare—the women in the family would see it as failing their duty if they didn't step in. Additionally, even when a professional nurse is ultimately brought in, there’s often a time of uncertainty and hesitation before the illness fully manifests, when the patient still needs care; in these instances, some of the female staff members will need to assist in the sickroom. There are also minor cases of colds, flu, and various accidents that can happen, where home-based care becomes essential; where illness, although not life-threatening, still brings about the anxiety and discomfort common with being unwell, and all the attention from a caregiver becomes crucial.
2417. In the first stage of sickness, while doubt and a little perplexity hang over the household as to the nature of the sickness, there are some things about which no doubt can exist: the patient's room must be kept in a perfectly pure state, and arrangements made for proper attendance; for the first canon of nursing, according to Florence Nightingale, its apostle, is to "keep the air the patient breathes as pure as the external air, without chilling him." This can be done without any preparation which might alarm the patient; with proper windows, open fireplaces, and a supply of fuel, the room may be as fresh as it is outside, and kept at a temperature suitable for the patient's state.
2417. In the early stages of illness, while there’s some uncertainty and confusion in the household about what kind of sickness it is, there are a few things that are clear: the patient's room needs to be kept completely clean, and proper care arrangements should be made. According to Florence Nightingale, the pioneer of nursing, the first rule of nursing is to "keep the air the patient breathes as pure as the outside air, without making them cold." This can be achieved without any actions that might scare the patient; with the right windows, open fireplaces, and a sufficient supply of fuel, the room can feel as fresh as it does outside while maintaining a temperature that’s comfortable for the patient.
2418. Windows, however, must be opened from above, and not from below, and draughts avoided; cool air admitted beneath the patient's head chills the lower strata and the floor. The careful nurse will keep the door shut when the window is open; she will also take care that the patient is not placed between the door and the open window, nor between the open fireplace and the window. If confined to bed, she will see that the bed is placed in a thoroughly ventilated part of the room, but out of the current of air which is produced by the momentary opening of doors, as well as out of the line of draught between the window and the open chimney, and that the temperature of the room is kept about 64°. Where it is necessary to admit air by the door, the windows should be closed; but there are few circumstances in which good air can be obtained through the chamber-door; through it, on the contrary, the gases generated in the lower parts of the house are likely to be drawn into the invalid chamber.
2418. Windows should be opened from the top, not the bottom, and drafts should be avoided; cool air coming in under the patient's head can chill the lower parts of the room and the floor. A careful nurse will keep the door closed when the window is open; she will also make sure that the patient is not positioned between the door and the open window, or between the open fireplace and the window. If the patient is in bed, she will ensure that the bed is in a well-ventilated area of the room, but out of the direct flow of air caused by opening doors, and away from drafts between the window and the open fireplace, while maintaining the room temperature at about 64°. When it is necessary to let air in through the door, the windows should be closed; however, there are few situations where good air can come through the chamber door; instead, gases from the lower parts of the house are likely to be pulled into the patient's room.
2419. These precautions taken, and plain nourishing diet, such as the patient desires, furnished, probably little more can be done, unless more serious symptoms present themselves; in which case medical advice will be sought.
2419. With these precautions in place and a straightforward, nourishing diet provided as the patient prefers, there’s probably not much more that can be done unless more serious symptoms appear; in that case, medical advice will be sought.
2420. Under no circumstances is ventilation of the sick-room so essential as in cases of febrile diseases, usually considered infectious; such as typhus and puerperal fevers, influenza, hooping-cough, small- and chicken-pox, scarlet fever, measles, and erysipelas: all these are considered communicable through the air; but there is little danger of infection being thus communicated, provided the room is kept thoroughly ventilated. On the contrary, if this essential be neglected, the power of infection is greatly increased and concentrated in the confined and impure air; it settles upon the clothes of the attendants and visitors, especially where they are of wool, and is frequently communicated to other families in this manner.
2420. Ventilation of the sick room is crucial, especially for febrile diseases that are usually seen as infectious, like typhus, puerperal fevers, influenza, whooping cough, smallpox, chickenpox, scarlet fever, measles, and erysipelas. All of these are thought to spread through the air; however, there is minimal risk of infection spreading this way if the room is well-ventilated. On the other hand, if ventilation is overlooked, the risk of infection significantly rises and becomes concentrated in the stale and contaminated air. It can cling to the clothing of caregivers and visitors, particularly if they are wearing wool, and can often be passed on to other families this way.
2421. Under all circumstances, therefore, the sick-room should be kept as fresh and sweet as the open air, while the temperature is kept up by artificial heat, taking care that the fire burns clear, and gives out no smoke into the room; that the room is perfectly clean, wiped over with a damp cloth every day, if boarded; and swept, after sprinkling with damp tea-leaves, or other aromatic leaves, if carpeted; that all utensils are emptied and cleaned as soon as used, and not once in four-and-twenty hours, as is sometimes done. "A slop-pail," Miss Nightingale says, "should never enter a sick-room; everything should be carried direct to the water-closet, emptied there, and brought up clean; in the best hospitals the slop-pail is unknown." "I do not approve," says Miss Nightingale, "of making housemaids of nurses,—that would be waste of means; but I have seen surgical sisters, women whose hands were worth to them two or three guineas a week, down on their knees, scouring a room or hut, because they thought it was not fit for their patients: these women had the true nurse spirit."
2421. Under all circumstances, the sick room should be kept as fresh and pleasant as the outdoors, while maintaining warmth with artificial heat. Make sure the fire is burning cleanly and doesn't produce any smoke in the room. The space should be completely clean, wiped down with a damp cloth every day if it has wooden floors, and swept after sprinkling with damp tea leaves or other fragrant leaves if it has carpet. All utensils should be emptied and cleaned right after use, not every twenty-four hours as sometimes happens. “A slop bucket,” Miss Nightingale says, “should never enter a sick room; everything should be taken straight to the toilet, emptied there, and returned clean. In the best hospitals, the slop bucket is nonexistent.” “I don't agree,” says Miss Nightingale, “with turning nurses into housemaids—that would be a waste of resources; but I’ve seen surgical sisters, women whose work was worth two or three guineas a week, down on their knees scrubbing a room or hut because they believed it wasn’t fit for their patients: these women had the true nurse spirit.”
2422. Bad smells are sometimes met by sprinkling a little liquid chloride of lime on the floor; fumigation by burning pastiles is also a common expedient for the purification of the sick-room. They are useful, but only in the sense hinted at by the medical lecturer, who commenced his lecture thus:—"Fumigations, gentlemen, are of essential importance; they make so abominable a smell, that they compel you to open the windows and admit fresh air." In this sense they are useful, but ineffectual unless the cause be removed, and fresh air admitted.
2422. Bad smells can sometimes be tackled by sprinkling a bit of liquid chloride of lime on the floor; fumigating with burning pastilles is also a common method for cleaning up a sick room. They can be helpful, but only in the way that the medical lecturer pointed out when he started his talk: "Fumigations, everyone, are extremely important; they create such a terrible smell that they force you to open the windows and let in fresh air." In this way, they are beneficial, but ineffective unless the source is dealt with and fresh air is brought in.
2423. The sick-room should be quiet; no talking, no gossiping, and, above all, no whispering,—this is absolute cruelty to the patient; he thinks his complaint the subject, and strains his ear painfully to catch the sound. No rustling of dresses, nor creaking shoes either; where the carpets are taken up, the nurse should wear list shoes, or some other noiseless material, and her dress should be of soft material that does not rustle. Miss Nightingale denounces crinoline, and quotes Lord Melbourne on the subject of women in the sick-room, who said, "I would rather have men about me, when ill, than women; it requires very strong health to put up with women." Ungrateful man! but absolute quiet is necessary in the sick-room.
2423. The sick room should be quiet; no talking, no gossiping, and, above all, no whispering—it's downright cruel to the patient. They worry that they're the topic of conversation and strain to hear everything. No rustling of dresses or creaking shoes, either; where the carpets are removed, the nurse should wear soft-soled shoes or something similarly quiet, and her dress should be made of a soft material that doesn’t rustle. Miss Nightingale criticizes crinoline and quotes Lord Melbourne on the matter of women in the sick room, who said, "I would rather have men around me when I'm ill than women; it takes really strong health to deal with women." What an ungrateful guy! Still, complete quiet is essential in the sick room.
2424. Never let the patient be waked out of his first sleep by noise, never roused by anything like a surprise. Always sit in the apartment, so that the patient has you in view, and that it is not necessary for him to turn in speaking to you. Never keep a patient standing; never speak to one while moving. Never lean on the sick-bed. Above all, be calm and decisive with the patient, and prevent all noises over-head.
2424. Never let the patient be woken up from their first sleep by noise, and never surprise them into waking. Always stay in the room where the patient can see you, so they don't have to turn around to talk to you. Never keep a patient standing; don't talk to them while you're moving around. Don't lean on the sickbed. Most importantly, be calm and decisive with the patient, and make sure to minimize any noise from above.
2425. A careful nurse, when a patient leaves his bed, will open the sheets wide, and throw the clothes back so as thoroughly to air the bed; She will avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room.
2425. A careful nurse, when a patient gets out of bed, will spread the sheets wide and pull the blankets back to fully air the bed; She will avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room.
2426. "It is another fallacy," says Florence Nightingale, "to suppose that night air is injurious; a great authority told me that, in London, the air is never so good as after ten o'clock, when smoke has diminished; but then it must be air from without, not within, and not air vitiated by gaseous airs." "A great fallacy prevails also," she says, in another section, "about flowers poisoning the air of the sick-room: no one ever saw them over-crowding the sick-room; but, if they did, they actually absorb carbonic acid and give off oxygen." Cut flowers also decompose water, and produce oxygen gas. Lilies, and some other very odorous plants, may perhaps give out smells unsuited to a close room, while the atmosphere of the sick-room should always be fresh and natural.
2426. "It's another misconception," says Florence Nightingale, "to think that night air is harmful; a well-known authority told me that, in London, the air is never better than after ten o'clock, when the smoke has lessened; but it needs to be fresh air from outside, not from inside, and not air polluted by gas." "There is also a major misunderstanding," she states in another section, "about flowers poisoning the air in the sickroom: no one has ever seen them overcrowding the sickroom; but if they did, they actually absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen." Cut flowers also break down water and produce oxygen gas. Lilies and some other strongly scented plants may release smells that aren't suitable for a small space, while the air in the sickroom should always be fresh and natural.
2427. "Patients," says Miss Nightingale, "are sometimes starved in the midst of plenty, from want of attention to the ways which alone make it possible for them to take food. A spoonful of beef-tea, or arrowroot and wine, or some other light nourishing diet, should be given every hour, for the patient's stomach will reject large supplies. In very weak patients there is often a nervous difficulty in swallowing, which is much increased if food is not ready and presented at the moment when it is wanted: the nurse should be able to discriminate, and know when this moment is approaching."
2427. "Patients," says Miss Nightingale, "can sometimes be neglected despite an abundance of resources, simply because the right methods for feeding them are overlooked. A spoonful of beef tea, arrowroot and wine, or another light, nutritious option should be given every hour since a patient's stomach struggles with larger amounts. In very weak patients, there’s often a nervous issue with swallowing that worsens if food isn't prepared and offered right when it's needed: the nurse needs to be attentive and recognize when that moment is coming."
2428. Diet suitable for patients will depend, in some degree, on their natural likes and dislikes, which the nurse will do well to acquaint herself with. Beef-tea is useful and relishing, but possesses little nourishment; when evaporated, it presents a teaspoonful of solid meat to a pint of water. Eggs are not equivalent to the same weight of meat. Arrowroot is less nourishing than flour. Butter is the lightest and most digestible kind of fat. Cream, in some diseases, cannot be replaced. But, to sum up with some of Miss Nightingale's useful maxims:—Observation is the nurse's best guide, and the patient's appetite the rule. Half a pint of milk is equal to a quarter of a pound of meat. Beef-tea is the least nourishing food administered to the sick; and tea and coffee, she thinks, are both too much excluded from the sick-room.
2428. A patient's diet will partly depend on their natural likes and dislikes, which the nurse should get to know. Beef tea is enjoyable and tasty, but it doesn't provide much nutrition; when evaporated, it yields a teaspoonful of solid meat per pint of water. Eggs aren't equivalent to the same weight of meat. Arrowroot is less nutritious than flour. Butter is the lightest and easiest fat to digest. In some illnesses, cream can't be replaced. To sum up with some of Miss Nightingale's helpful tips: Observation is the nurse's best guide, and the patient's appetite is the rule. Half a pint of milk is equal to a quarter pound of meat. Beef tea is the least nutritious food given to the sick, and she believes that tea and coffee are often too much kept out of the sick room.
THE MONTHLY NURSE.
2429. The choice of a monthly nurse is of the utmost importance; and in the case of a young mother with her first child, it would be well for her to seek advice and counsel from her more experienced relatives in this matter. In the first place, the engaging a monthly nurse in good time is of the utmost importance, as, if she be competent and clever, her services will be sought months beforehand; a good nurse having seldom much of her time disengaged. There are some qualifications which it is evident the nurse should possess: she should be scrupulously clean and tidy in her person; honest, sober, and noiseless in her movements; should possess a natural love for children, and have a strong nerve in case of emergencies. Snuff-taking and spirit-drinking must not be included in her habits; but these are happily much less frequent than they were in former days.
2429. Choosing a monthly nurse is really important; for a young mother with her first child, it’s a good idea to seek advice and guidance from more experienced family members about this. First of all, finding a monthly nurse in time is crucial, as a competent and skilled one will often be booked months in advance; good nurses rarely have much of their time free. There are certain qualities the nurse should have: she should be very clean and tidy in her appearance; honest, sober, and quiet in her movements; she should genuinely love children and have a strong presence in emergencies. Smoking and drinking shouldn’t be part of her lifestyle, but thankfully, those habits are much less common than they used to be.
2430. Receiving, as she often will, instructions from the doctor, she should bear these in mind, and carefully carry them out. In those instances where she does not feel herself sufficiently informed, she should ask advice from the medical man, and not take upon herself to administer medicines, &c., without his knowledge.
2430. When she receives instructions from the doctor, she should keep them in mind and follow them carefully. If she feels unsure or lacking in information, she should consult the doctor and not administer any medicines or anything similar without his knowledge.
2431. A monthly nurse should be between 30 and 50 years of age, sufficiently old to have had a little experience, and yet not too old or infirm to be able to perform various duties requiring strength and bodily vigour. She should be able to wake the moment she is called,—at any hour of the night, that the mother or child may have their wants immediately attended to. Good temper, united to a kind and gentle disposition, is indispensable; and, although the nurse will frequently have much to endure from the whims and caprices of the invalid, she should make allowances for these, and command her temper, at the same time exerting her authority when it is necessary.
2431. A monthly nurse should be between 30 and 50 years old, old enough to have some experience, but not so old or frail that she can't handle various tasks that require strength and energy. She should be able to wake up as soon as she is called—at any hour of the night—so that the mother or child can have their needs addressed right away. A good attitude, along with a kind and gentle nature, is essential; and even though the nurse will often have to deal with the whims and moods of the patient, she should be understanding of these and keep her cool, while also asserting herself when necessary.
2432. What the nurse has to do in the way of cleaning and dusting her lady's room, depends entirely on the establishment that is kept. Where there are plenty of servants, the nurse, of course, has nothing whatever to do but attend on her patient, and ring the bell for anything she may require. Where the number of domestics is limited, she should not mind keeping her room in order; that is to say, sweeping and dusting it every morning. If fires be necessary, the housemaid should always clean the grate, and do all that is wanted in that way, as this, being rather dirty work, would soil the nurse's dress, and unfit her to approach the bed, or take the infant without soiling its clothes. In small establishments, too, the nurse should herself fetch things she may require, and not ring every time she wants anything; and she must, of course, not leave her invalid unless she sees everything is comfortable; and then only for a few minutes. When down stairs, and in company with the other servants, the nurse should not repeat what she may have heard in her lady's room, as much mischief may be done by a gossiping nurse. As in most houses the monthly nurse is usually sent for a few days before her services may be required, she should see that all is in readiness; that there be no bustle and hurry at the time the confinement takes place. She should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired, as well as night-dresses, flannels, &c. &c. All the things which will be required to dress the baby the first time should be laid in the basket in readiness, in the order in which they are to be put on; as well as scissors, thread, a few pieces of soft linen rag, and two or three flannel squares. If a berceaunette is to be used immediately, the nurse should ascertain that the mattresses, pillow, &c. are all well aired; and if not already done before she arrives, she should assist in covering and trimming it, ready for the little occupant. A monthly nurse should be handy at her needle, as, if she is in the house some time before the baby is born, she will require some work of this sort; to occupy her time. She should also understand the making-up of little caps, although we can scarcely say this is one of the nurse's duties. As most children wear no caps, except out of doors, her powers in this way will not be much taxed.
2432. What the nurse needs to do in terms of cleaning and dusting her lady's room depends entirely on the type of household. In homes with plenty of staff, the nurse only has to focus on her patient and ring the bell for anything she needs. In households with fewer staff, she shouldn't mind keeping her space tidy; that means sweeping and dusting her room every morning. If fires are necessary, the housemaid should always clean the grate and handle that sort of work, since it's quite messy and could soil the nurse's outfit, making it unsuitable for her to approach the bed or handle the baby without dirtying its clothes. In smaller households, the nurse should fetch what she needs herself instead of ringing for assistance every time, and she must make sure her patient is comfortable before leaving them, and ideally only for a few minutes. When downstairs and in the company of other staff, the nurse shouldn't share what she has heard in her lady's room, as gossip can lead to trouble. Since the monthly nurse is usually called in a few days before her services are actually needed, she should ensure that everything is prepared ahead of time so there’s no panic when the time comes for the delivery. She should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired, along with nightdresses, flannels, etc. All items needed for the baby's first dressing should be organized in the basket, in the order they will be used, along with scissors, thread, a few pieces of soft linen, and two or three flannel squares. If a cradle will be used immediately, the nurse should check that the mattress, pillow, etc., are well aired; if this hasn't already been done when she arrives, she should help cover and set it up for the little one. A monthly nurse should be adept with her needle, as if she arrives in the house before the baby is born, she'll need some tasks to fill her time. She should also know how to make little caps, although we can hardly say this is strictly part of the nurse's duties. Since most children only wear caps outdoors, her skills in this area won't be heavily utilized.
2433. A nurse should endeavour to make her room as cheerful as possible, and always keep it clean and tidy. She should empty the chamber utensils as soon as used, and on no account put things under the bed. Soiled baby's napkins should be rolled up and put into a pan, when they should be washed out every morning, and hung out to dry: they are then in a fit state to send to the laundress; and should, on no account, be left dirty, but done every morning in this way. The bedroom should be kept rather dark, particularly for the first week or ten days; of a regular temperature, and as free as possible from draughts, at the same time well ventilated and free from unpleasant smells.
2433. A nurse should make her room as cheerful as possible and always keep it clean and tidy. She should empty the chamber pots as soon as they are used and never put things under the bed. Soiled baby diapers should be rolled up and placed in a pan, which should be washed out every morning and hung out to dry. They will then be ready to send to the laundress and should never be left dirty, but cleaned each morning like this. The bedroom should be kept fairly dark, especially for the first week or ten days, at a consistent temperature, and as free as possible from drafts, while still being well-ventilated and free from bad odors.
2434. The infant during the month must not be exposed to strong light, or much air; and in carrying it about the passages, stairs, &c., the nurse should always have its head-flannel on, to protect the eyes and ears from the currents of air. For the management of children, we must refer our readers to the following chapters; and we need only say, in conclusion, that a good nurse should understand the symptoms of various ills incident to this period, as, in all cases, prevention is better than cure. As young mothers with their first baby are very often much troubled at first with their breasts, the nurse should understand the art of emptying them by suction, or some other contrivance. If the breasts are kept well drawn, there will be but little danger of inflammation; and as the infant at first cannot take all that is necessary, something must be done to keep the inflammation down. This is one of the greatest difficulties a nurse has to contend with, and we can only advise her to be very persevering, to rub the breasts well, and to let the infant suck as soon and as often as possible, until they get in proper order.
2434. The baby during the month should not be exposed to bright light or a lot of air; when carrying it around through halls, stairs, etc., the nurse should always keep a cloth over its head to protect its eyes and ears from drafts. For guidance on caring for children, we refer our readers to the following chapters; we just want to emphasize that a good nurse should understand the signs of various common issues at this stage, as prevention is always better than treatment. Since new mothers with their first baby often struggle with breastfeeding at first, the nurse should know how to help with milk removal, whether by suction or some other method. Keeping the breasts well drained will minimize the risk of inflammation, and since the baby may not be able to consume enough right away, something must be done to prevent inflammation. This is one of the biggest challenges a nurse faces, and we can only recommend being very persistent, rubbing the breasts thoroughly, and letting the baby nurse as soon and as often as possible until everything is running smoothly.
THE WET-NURSE.
2435. We are aware that, according to the opinion of some ladies, there is no domestic theme, during a certain period of their married lives, more fraught with vexation and disquietude than that ever-fruitful source of annoyance, "the Nurse;" but, as we believe, there are thousands of excellent wives and mothers who pass through life without even a temporary embroglio in the kitchen, or suffering a state of moral hectic the whole time of a nurse's empire in the nursery or bedroom. Our own experience goes to prove, that although many unqualified persons palm themselves off on ladies as fully competent for the duties they so rashly and dishonestly undertake to perform, and thus expose themselves to ill-will and merited censure, there are still very many fully equal to the legitimate exercise of what they undertake; and if they do not in every case give entire satisfaction, some of the fault,—and sometimes a great deal of it,—may be honestly placed to the account of the ladies themselves, who, in many instances, are so impressed with the propriety of their own method of performing everything, as to insist upon the adoption of their system in preference to that of the nurse, whose plan is probably based on a comprehensive forethought, and rendered perfect in all its details by an ample experience.
2435. We know that, according to some women, there's no household topic more stressful and troubling during their married life than "the Nurse." However, we believe that thousands of great wives and mothers live their lives without even a short-lived mess in the kitchen or feeling constantly overwhelmed while a nurse is in charge of the nursery or bedroom. Our experience shows that while many unqualified individuals pass themselves off as capable caregivers and dive into these roles recklessly and dishonestly, putting themselves at risk of criticism, there are still many who are fully competent in what they do. If they don’t always meet expectations, some of the blame—often a significant amount—can honestly be placed on the women themselves, who sometimes feel so strongly about their own way of doing things that they insist on following their method instead of the nurse's, whose approach is likely based on thoughtful planning and perfected through extensive experience.
2436. In all our remarks on this subject, we should remember with gentleness the order of society from which our nurses are drawn; and that those who make their duty a study, and are termed professional nurses, have much to endure from the caprice and egotism of their employers; while others are driven to the occupation from the laudable motive of feeding their own children, and who, in fulfilling that object, are too often both selfish and sensual, performing, without further interest than is consistent with their own advantage, the routine of customary duties.
2436. In all our comments on this topic, we should kindly remember the social background of our nurses; and that those who dedicate themselves to their work, known as professional nurses, have to deal with the unpredictability and self-centeredness of their employers; while others take on this job out of the noble intention of providing for their own children, and in trying to achieve that goal, are often selfish and driven by pleasure, doing only what is necessary for their own benefit in their usual tasks.
2437. Properly speaking, there are two nurses,—the nurse for the mother and the nurse for the child, or, the monthly and the wet nurse. Of the former we have already spoken, and will now proceed to describe the duties of the latter, and add some suggestions as to her age, physical health, and moral conduct, subjects of the utmost importance as far as the charge intrusted to her is concerned, and therefore demanding some special remarks.
2437. There are technically two types of nurses—the nurse for the mother and the nurse for the child, or the monthly nurse and the wet nurse. We've already talked about the first one, so now we'll describe the responsibilities of the second and offer some advice regarding her age, physical health, and moral conduct. These topics are crucial in relation to the responsibilities entrusted to her, so they require some specific attention.
2438. When from illness, suppression of the milk, accident, or some natural process, the mother is deprived of the pleasure of rearing her infant, it becomes necessary at once to look around for a fitting substitute, so that the child may not suffer, by any needless delay, a physical loss by the deprivation of its natural food. The first consideration should be as regards age, state of health, and temper.
2438. When a mother is unable to care for her baby due to illness, loss of milk, an accident, or some natural reason, it's essential to quickly find an appropriate substitute so that the child doesn't experience any unnecessary delay in receiving its natural food and suffer physically. The first thing to consider should be the age, health, and temperament of the child.
2439. The age, if possible, should not be less than twenty nor exceed thirty years, with the health sound in every respect, and the body free from all eruptive disease or local blemish. The best evidence of a sound state of health will be found in the woman's clear open countenance, the ruddy tone of the skin, the full, round, and elastic state of the breasts, and especially in the erectile, firm condition of the nipple, which, in all unhealthy states of the body, is pendulous, flabby, and relaxed; in which case, the milk is sure to be imperfect in its organization, and, consequently, deficient in its nutrient qualities. Appetite is another indication of health in the suckling nurse or mother; for it is impossible a woman can feed her child without having a corresponding appetite; and though inordinate craving for food is neither desirable nor necessary, a natural vigour should be experienced at meal-times, and the food taken should be anticipated and enjoyed.
2439. The age should ideally be no less than twenty and no more than thirty years, with good health in every way, and the body free from any skin conditions or blemishes. The best signs of good health will be evident in the woman’s clear, open face, the healthy color of her skin, the full, round, and firm state of her breasts, and particularly in the firm, erect condition of the nipple, which tends to be droopy, soft, and relaxed in unhealthy individuals; in such cases, the milk is likely to be poorly structured and lacking in essential nutrients. Appetite is another sign of health in a nursing mother; it’s essential for a woman to have a strong appetite to effectively feed her child. While excessive hunger isn’t ideal or necessary, a natural strength should be felt during meal times, and the food should be eagerly anticipated and enjoyed.
2440. Besides her health, the moral state of the nurse is to be taken into account, or that mental discipline or principle of conduct which would deter the nurse from at any time gratifying her own pleasures and appetites at the cost or suffering of her infant charge.
2440. Besides her health, the ethical state of the nurse needs to be considered, or the mental discipline or guiding principle that would stop the nurse from satisfying her own desires and cravings at the expense of the suffering of her infant charge.
2441. The conscientiousness and good faith that would prevent a nurse so acting are, unfortunately, very rare; and many nurses, rather than forego the enjoyment of a favourite dish, though morally certain of the effect it will have on the child, will, on the first opportunity, feed with avidity on fried meats, cabbage, cucumbers, pickles, or other crude and injurious aliments, in defiance of all orders given, or confidence reposed in their word, good sense, and humanity. And when the infant is afterwards racked with pain, and a night of disquiet alarms the mother, the doctor is sent for, and the nurse, covering her dereliction by a falsehood, the consequence of her gluttony is treated as a disease, and the poor infant is dosed for some days with medicines, that can do it but little if any good, and, in all probability, materially retard its physical development. The selfish nurse, in her ignorance, believes, too, that as long as she experiences no admonitory symptoms herself, the child cannot suffer; and satisfied that, whatever is the cause of its screams and plunges, neither she, nor what she had eaten, had anything to do with it, with this flattering assurance at her heart, she watches her opportunity, and has another luxurious feast off the proscribed dainties, till the increasing disturbance in the child's health, or treachery from the kitchen, opens the eyes of mother and doctor to the nurse's unprincipled conduct. In all such cases the infant should be spared the infliction of medicine, and, as a wholesome corrective to herself, and relief to her charge, a good sound dose administered to the nurse.
2441. The conscientiousness and good faith that would stop a nurse from acting this way are, unfortunately, very rare; many nurses, rather than skip their favorite foods, even when they know how it will affect the child, will eagerly indulge in fried meats, cabbage, cucumbers, pickles, or other harmful foods as soon as they get a chance, ignoring all the instructions given or the trust placed in their judgment, common sense, and compassion. Then, when the baby is later in pain and a restless night worries the mother, the doctor is called, and the nurse, covering up her mistake with a lie, treats the outcome of her gluttony as if it were a disease. The poor baby ends up being dosed for several days with medicine that does little to help and probably slows its physical development. The selfish nurse, in her ignorance, thinks that as long as she has no warning symptoms herself, the child can’t be suffering; convinced that whatever is causing the baby to cry and squirm has nothing to do with her or what she ate, she reassures herself and waits for another chance to indulge in the forbidden treats until the baby’s worsening health or betrayal from the kitchen makes the mother and doctor realize the nurse’s unethical behavior. In these situations, the baby should be spared from unnecessary medication, and as a way to correct herself and relieve her charge, the nurse should receive a good, solid dose of her own medicine.
2442. Respecting the diet of the wet-nurse, the first point of importance is to fix early and definite hours for every meal; and the mother should see that no cause is ever allowed to interfere with their punctuality. The food itself should be light, easy of digestion, and simple. Boiled or roast meat, with bread and potatoes, with occasionally a piece of sago, rice, or tapioca pudding, should constitute the dinner, the only meal that requires special comment; broths, green vegetables, and all acid or salt foods, must be avoided. Fresh fish, once or twice a week, may be taken; but it is hardly sufficiently nutritious to be often used as a meal. If the dinner is taken early,—at one o'clock,—there will be no occasion for luncheon, which too often, to the injury of the child, is made the cover for a first dinner. Half a pint of stout, with a Reading biscuit, at eleven o'clock, will be abundantly sufficient between breakfast at eight and a good dinner, with a pint of porter at one o'clock. About eight o'clock in the evening, half a pint of stout, with another biscuit, may be taken; and for supper, at ten or half-past, a pint of porter, with a slice of toast or a small amount of bread and cheese, may conclude the feeding for the day.
2442. When it comes to the diet of the wet-nurse, the first important thing is to establish consistent meal times. The mother should ensure that nothing interferes with these times. The food should be light, easy to digest, and straightforward. Dinner should mainly consist of boiled or roasted meat, bread, and potatoes, with the occasional dessert like sago, rice, or tapioca pudding. This meal requires special attention; broths, green vegetables, and all acidic or salty foods should be avoided. Fresh fish can be eaten once or twice a week, but it isn’t nutritious enough to be a regular main meal. If dinner is served early, at one o'clock, there’s no need for lunch, which often becomes a substitute for a proper first dinner, negatively affecting the child. A half pint of stout with a Reading biscuit at eleven o'clock is enough between breakfast at eight and a hearty dinner at one. In the evening, around eight o'clock, another half pint of stout with a biscuit can be consumed; and for supper, at ten or half-past, a pint of porter, with a slice of toast or a small amount of bread and cheese, can wrap up the day's meals.
2443. Animal food once in twenty-four hours is quite sufficient. All spirits, unless in extreme cases, should be avoided; and wine is still more seldom needed. With a due quantity of plain digestible food, and the proportion of stout and porter ordered, with early hours and regularity, the nurse will not only be strong and healthy herself, but fully capable of rearing a child in health and strength. There are two points all mothers, who are obliged to employ wet-nurses, should remember, and be on their guard against. The first is, never to allow a nurse to give medicine to the infant on her own authority: many have such an infatuated idea of the healing excellence of castor-oil, that they would administer a dose of this disgusting grease twice a week, and think they had done a meritorious service to the child. The next point is, to watch carefully, lest, to insure a night's sleep for herself, she does not dose the infant with Godfrey's cordial, syrup of poppies, or some narcotic potion, to insure tranquillity to the one and give the opportunity of sleep to the other. The fact that scores of nurses keep secret bottles of these deadly syrups, for the purpose of stilling their charges, is notorious; and that many use them to a fearful extent, is sufficiently patent to all.
2443. Feeding animals once every twenty-four hours is plenty. All alcoholic drinks, unless absolutely necessary, should be avoided; and wine is even more rarely needed. With a proper amount of plain, digestible food and the recommended quantity of stout and porter, paired with early hours and routine, the nurse will not only be strong and healthy herself, but will also be fully capable of raising a child in good health and strength. There are two important things all mothers who need to hire wet-nurses should keep in mind and be cautious about. The first is to never let a nurse give medicine to the baby on her own authority: many have such a misguided belief in the supposed healing power of castor oil that they would give a dose of this unpleasant substance twice a week thinking they were helping the child. The second point is to watch closely, to ensure that, in order to get a good night's sleep for herself, she doesn’t give the baby Godfrey's cordial, syrup of poppies, or some narcotic mix to calm the baby and give herself the chance to rest. It's well-known that many nurses secretly keep bottles of these dangerous syrups to quiet their charges, and it’s clear that many use them excessively.
2444. It therefore behoves the mother, while obliged to trust to a nurse, to use her best discretion to guard her child from the unprincipled treatment of the person she must, to a certain extent, depend upon and trust; and to remember, in all cases, rather than resort to castor-oil or sedatives, to consult a medical man for her infant in preference to following the counsel of her nurse.
2444. It’s important for the mother, while needing to rely on a nurse, to wisely protect her child from the untrustworthy treatment of someone she has to depend on and trust to some degree. She should keep in mind that instead of using castor oil or sedatives, she should consult a doctor for her baby rather than just following her nurse's advice.
THE REARING, MANAGEMENT, AND DISEASES OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD.
CHAPTER XLII.
Physiology of Life, as illustrated by Respiration, Circulation, and
Digestion.
Physiology of Life, shown through Respiration, Circulation, and
Digestion.
2445. The infantine management of children, like the mother's love for her offspring, seems to be born with the child, and to be a direct intelligence of Nature. It may thus, at first sight, appear as inconsistent and presumptuous to tell a woman how to rear her infant as to instruct her in the manner of loving it. Yet, though Nature is unquestionably the best nurse, Art makes so admirable a foster-mother, that no sensible woman, in her novitiate of parent, would refuse the admonitions of art, or the teachings of experience, to consummate her duties of nurse. It is true that, in a civilized state of society, few young wives reach the epoch that makes them mothers without some insight, traditional or practical, into the management of infants: consequently, the cases wherein a woman is left to her own unaided intelligence, or what, in such a case, may be called instinct, and obliged to trust to the promptings of nature alone for the well-being of her child, are very rare indeed. Again, every woman is not gifted with the same physical ability for the harassing duties of a mother; and though Nature, as a general rule, has endowed all female creation with the attributes necessary to that most beautiful and, at the same time, holiest function,—the healthy rearing of their offspring,—the cases are sufficiently numerous to establish the exception, where the mother is either physically or socially incapacitated from undertaking these most pleasing duties herself, and where, consequently, she is compelled to trust to adventitious aid for those natural benefits which are at once the mother's pride and delight to render to her child.
2445. The way children are cared for by their mothers, just like a mother's love for her child, seems to come naturally and is a direct gift from Nature. So, at first glance, it might seem inappropriate to tell a woman how to raise her child, just as it would be to instruct her on how to love it. However, while Nature is undeniably the best caregiver, wisdom and knowledge can make for an excellent support, and no wise woman, in her early days of parenthood, would turn down the guidance of knowledge or the insights from experience to fulfill her responsibilities as a caregiver. It's true that in modern society, few young wives become mothers without some understanding, whether traditional or practical, of how to care for infants; therefore, it's quite rare for a woman to rely solely on her own intuition or instincts to ensure her child's well-being. Additionally, not every woman has the same physical ability to handle the demanding tasks of motherhood. While Nature generally equips all women with the qualities needed for the beautiful and sacred responsibility of raising their children, there are certainly enough cases where mothers are either physically or socially unable to take on these joyful duties themselves, and as a result, they must seek external help to provide those natural benefits that mothers take pride in offering their children.
2446. In these cases, when obliged to call in the services of hired assistance, she must trust the dearest obligation of her life to one who, from her social sphere, has probably notions of rearing children diametrically opposed to the preconceived ideas of the mother, and at enmity with all her sentiments of right and prejudices of position.
2446. In these situations, when she has to hire help, she must entrust the most important responsibility of her life to someone who, from her social background, likely has ideas about raising children that are completely different from the mother’s beliefs and at odds with all her feelings about what’s right and her social views.
2447. It has justly been said—we think by Hood—that the children of the poor are not brought up, but dragged up. However facetious this remark may seem, there is much truth in it; and that children, reared in the reeking dens of squalor and poverty, live at all, is an apparent anomaly in the course of things, that, at first sight, would seem to set the laws of sanitary provision at defiance, and make it appear a perfect waste of time to insist on pure air and exercise as indispensable necessaries of life, and especially so as regards infantine existence.
2447. It has been rightly said—we believe by Hood—that the children of the poor are not raised, but dragged up. While this comment may sound humorous, there’s a lot of truth to it; and the fact that children who grow up in filthy environments filled with poverty manage to survive is a clear inconsistency in how things usually work, which, at first glance, seems to challenge the principles of sanitary practices and makes it seem pointless to emphasize the importance of clean air and exercise as essential for life, particularly for infants.
2448. We see elaborate care bestowed on a family of children, everything studied that can tend to their personal comfort,—pure air, pure water, regular ablution, a dietary prescribed by art, and every precaution adopted that medical judgment and maternal love can dictate, for the well-being of the parents' hope; and find, in despite of all this care and vigilance, disease and death invading the guarded treasure. We turn to the foetor and darkness that, in some obscure court, attend the robust brood who, coated in dirt, and with mud and refuse for playthings, live and thrive, and grow into manhood, and, in contrast to the pale face and flabby flesh of the aristocratic child, exhibit strength, vigour, and well-developed frames, and our belief in the potency of the life-giving elements of air, light, and cleanliness receives a shock that, at first sight, would appear fatal to the implied benefits of these, in reality, all-sufficient attributes of health and life.
2448. We see a lot of care given to a family of children, with everything considered that could contribute to their personal comfort—clean air, clean water, regular baths, a carefully planned diet, and every precaution taken that medical expertise and maternal affection can suggest for the well-being of the parents' hope. Despite all this care and watchfulness, we still witness disease and death breaking into the protected treasure. We look over at the filth and darkness that, in some hidden courtyard, surround the sturdy kids who, covered in dirt, and with mud and trash as their toys, thrive, grow up strong, and, in contrast to the pale faces and weak bodies of privileged children, display strength, energy, and well-developed physiques. Our belief in the life-giving powers of air, light, and cleanliness is shaken, and it seems, at first glance, that this would challenge the supposed benefits of these truly vital attributes of health and life.
2449. But as we must enter more largely on this subject hereafter, we shall leave its consideration for the present, and return to what we were about to say respecting trusting to others' aid in the rearing of children. Here it is that the young and probably inexperienced mother may find our remarks not only an assistance but a comfort to her, in as far as, knowing the simplest and best system to adopt, she may be able to instruct another, and see that her directions are fully carried out.
2449. But since we’ll need to discuss this topic more in-depth later, we’ll set it aside for now and get back to what we were about to say about relying on others’ help in raising children. This is where a young and likely inexperienced mother might find our comments not only helpful but also comforting, as understanding the simplest and best approach can enable her to guide someone else and ensure that her instructions are completely followed.
2450. The human body, materially considered, is a beautiful piece of mechanism, consisting of many parts, each one being the centre of a system, and performing its own vital function irrespectively of the others, and yet dependent for its vitality upon the harmony and health of the whole. It is, in fact, to a certain extent, like a watch, which, when once wound up and set in motion, will continue its function of recording true time only so long as every wheel, spring, and lever performs its allotted duty, and at its allotted time; or till the limit that man's ingenuity has placed to its existence as a moving automaton has been reached, or, in other words, till it has run down.
2450. The human body, when looked at in physical terms, is a remarkable piece of machinery, made up of many parts, each one acting as the center of a system and carrying out its own essential function independently of the others, while still relying on the overall harmony and health of the entire system for its vitality. In fact, it’s somewhat like a watch, which, once wound up and set in motion, will keep functioning to tell the correct time only as long as every gear, spring, and lever does its designated job at the right moment; or until the limit that human creativity has imposed on its life as a moving machine has been reached, or in other words, until it has run down.
2451. What the key is to the mechanical watch, air is to the physical man. Once admit air into the mouth and nostrils, and the lungs expand, the heart beats, the blood rushes to the remotest part of the body, the mouth secretes saliva, to soften and macerate the food; the liver forms its bile, to separate the nutriment from the digested aliment; the kidneys perform their office; the eye elaborates its tears, to facilitate motion and impart that glistening to the orb on which depends so much of its beauty; and a dewy moisture exudes from the skin, protecting the body from the extremes of heat and cold, and sharpening the perception of touch and feeling. At the same instant, and in every part, the arteries, like innumerable bees, are everywhere laying down layers of muscle, bones, teeth, and, in fact, like the coral zoophyte, building up a continent of life and matter; while the veins, equally busy, are carrying away the débris and refuse collected from where the zoophyte arteries are building,—this refuse, in its turn, being conveyed to the liver, there to be converted into bile.
2451. Just like a key is essential for a mechanical watch, air is essential for a person's body. When air enters through the mouth and nostrils, the lungs expand, the heart beats, blood flows to every part of the body, the mouth produces saliva to soften and break down food; the liver creates bile to extract nutrients from digested food; the kidneys do their job; the eyes produce tears to aid movement and give a shine that contributes significantly to their beauty; and moisture seeps from the skin, protecting the body from extreme temperatures and enhancing the sense of touch. At the very same moment, throughout the body, the arteries, like countless bees, are layering down muscle, bones, teeth, and, essentially, building up a continent of life and matter, much like coral; while the veins, just as actively, are removing the waste and debris collected where the arteries are constructing—this waste, in turn, being transported to the liver to be turned into bile.
2452. All these—and they are but a few of the vital actions constantly taking place—are the instant result of one gasp of life-giving air. No subject can be fraught with greater interest than watching the first spark of life, as it courses with electric speed "through all the gates and alleys" of the soft, insensate body of the infant. The effect of air on the new-born child is as remarkable in its results as it is wonderful in its consequence; but to understand this more intelligibly, it must first be remembered that life consists of the performance of three vital functions—RESPIRATION, CIRCULATION, and DIGESTION. The lungs digest the air, taking from it its most nutritious element, the oxygen, to give to the impoverished blood that circulates through them. The stomach digests the food, and separates the nutriment—chyle—from the aliment, which it gives to the blood for the development of the frame; and the blood, which is understood by the term circulation, digests in its passage through the lungs the nutriment—chyle—to give it quantity and quality, and the oxygen from the air to give it vitality. Hence it will be seen, that, speaking generally, the three vital functions resolve themselves into one,—DIGESTION; and that the lungs are the primary and the most important of the vital organs; and respiration, the first in fact, as we all know it is the last in deed, of all the functions performed by the living body.
2452. All these—and they are just a few of the crucial actions constantly happening—are the immediate result of one breath of life-giving air. Nothing can be more fascinating than witnessing the first spark of life as it races with electric speed "through all the gates and alleys" of the soft, senseless body of the infant. The impact of air on the newborn is as extraordinary in its effects as it is amazing in its implications; but to grasp this more clearly, it's essential to remember that life consists of performing three vital functions—RESPIRATION, CIRCULATION, and DIGESTION. The lungs process the air, extracting its most nutritious component, oxygen, to nourish the depleted blood that flows through them. The stomach breaks down food and isolates the nutrients—chyle—from the intake, which it delivers to the blood for the body’s growth; and the blood, known as circulation, processes the nutrients—chyle—during its journey through the lungs to enhance both its quantity and quality, along with the oxygen from the air to boost its vitality. Therefore, it's apparent that, generally speaking, the three vital functions come together as one—DIGESTION; and that the lungs are the primary and most important of the vital organs; and respiration, the first in fact, even though we all know it is the last in execution, of all the functions carried out by the living body.
THE LUNGS.—RESPIRATION.
2453. The first effect of air on the infant is a slight tremor about the lips and angles of the mouth, increasing to twitchings, and finally to a convulsive contraction of the lips and cheeks, the consequence of sudden cold to the nerves of the face. This spasmodic action produces a gasp, causing the air to rush through the mouth and nostrils, and enter the windpipe and upper portion of the flat and contracted lungs, which, like a sponge partly immersed in water, immediately expand. This is succeeded by a few faint sobs or pants, by which larger volumes of air are drawn into the chest, till, after a few seconds, and when a greater bulk of the lungs has become inflated, the breast-bone and ribs rise, the chest expands, and, with a sudden start, the infant gives utterance to a succession of loud, sharp cries, which have the effect of filling every cell of the entire organ with air and life. To the anxious mother, the first voice of her child is, doubtless, the sweetest music she ever heard; and the more loudly it peals, the greater should be her joy, as it is an indication of health and strength, and not only shows the perfect expansion of the lungs, but that the process of life has set in with vigour. Having welcomed in its own existence, like the morning bird, with a shrill note of gladness, the infant ceases its cry, and, after a few short sobs, usually subsides into sleep or quietude.
2453. The first response of air to the baby is a slight tremor around the lips and corners of the mouth, which then increases to twitching, and finally leads to a convulsive contraction of the lips and cheeks, resulting from the sudden cold hitting the nerves of the face. This spasm creates a gasp, making air rush through the mouth and nostrils, entering the windpipe and the upper part of the flat, contracted lungs, which expand immediately like a sponge that’s partially submerged in water. This is followed by a few faint sobs or pants, pulling in larger amounts of air into the chest until, after a few seconds, and once more of the lungs are inflated, the breastbone and ribs rise, the chest expands, and suddenly, the baby lets out a string of loud, sharp cries, which fills every part of the lungs with air and life. To the worried mother, the first sound of her child is undoubtedly the sweetest music she’s ever heard; the louder it is, the greater her joy should be, as it shows health and strength, indicating not only that the lungs are fully expanded but also that life has begun vigorously. Having welcomed its own existence, like a morning bird with a cheerful call, the baby eventually stops crying and, after a few short sobs, usually settles into sleep or calmness.
2454. At the same instant that the air rushes into the lungs, the valve, or door between the two sides of the heart-and through which the blood had previously passed-is closed and hermetically sealed, and the blood taking a new course, bounds into the lungs, now expanded with air, and which we have likened to a wetted sponge, to which they bear a not unapt affinity, air being substituted for water. It here receives the oxygen from the atmosphere, and the chyle, or white blood, from the digested food, and becomes, in an instant, arterial blood, a vital principle, from which every solid and fluid of the body is constructed. Besides the lungs, Nature has provided another respiratory organ, a sort of supplemental lung, that, as well as being a covering to the body, _in_spires air and _ex_pires moisture;—this is the cuticle, or skin; and so intimate is the connection between the skin and lungs, that whatever injures the first, is certain to affect the latter.
2454. At the same moment that air rushes into the lungs, the valve, or door, between the two sides of the heart—which the blood had passed through before—closes tightly. The blood then takes a new route, flowing into the lungs, which are now filled with air, similar to a wet sponge. Here, it absorbs the oxygen from the atmosphere and the chyle, or white blood, from digested food, transforming instantly into arterial blood, the vital essence from which every solid and fluid in the body is made. In addition to the lungs, Nature has provided another respiratory organ, a sort of extra lung, that not only covers the body but also takes in air and releases moisture; this is the skin. The connection between the skin and lungs is so close that anything that harms the skin will definitely impact the lungs.
2455. Hence the difficulty of breathing experienced after scalds or burns on the cuticle, the cough that follows the absorption of cold or damp by the skin, the oppressed and laborious breathing experienced by children in all eruptive diseases, while the rash is coming to the surface, and the hot, dry skin that always attends congestion of the lungs, and fever.
2455. This explains the breathing difficulties that occur after scalds or burns on the skin, the cough that follows when the skin absorbs cold or dampness, the heavy and labored breathing that children experience during all eruptive diseases while the rash is forming, and the hot, dry skin that always accompanies lung congestion and fever.
2456. The great practical advantage derivable from this fact is, the knowledge that whatever relieves the one benefits the other. Hence, too, the great utility of hot baths in all affections of the lungs or diseases of the skin; and the reason why exposure to cold or wet is, in nearly all cases, followed by tightness of the chest, sore throat, difficulty of breathing, and cough. These symptoms are the consequence of a larger quantity of blood than is natural remaining in the lungs, and the cough is a mere effort of Nature to throw off the obstruction caused by the presence of too much blood in the organ of respiration. The hot bath, by causing a larger amount of blood to rush suddenly to the skin, has the effect of relieving the lungs of their excess of blood, and by equalizing the circulation, and promoting perspiration from the cuticle, affords immediate and direct benefit, both to the lungs and the system at large.
2456. The big practical advantage that comes from this fact is the understanding that whatever helps one also helps the other. This is also why hot baths are so useful for all lung issues or skin diseases; and it's the reason why being exposed to cold or wet conditions usually leads to tightness in the chest, sore throat, difficulty breathing, and cough. These symptoms happen because more blood than normal stays in the lungs, and the cough is simply Nature's way of trying to get rid of the blockage caused by the excess blood in the respiratory system. The hot bath causes a rush of blood to the skin, which helps relieve the lungs of their excess blood, equalizes circulation, and encourages sweat from the skin, providing immediate and direct benefits for both the lungs and the overall system.
THE STOMACH—DIGESTION.
2457. The organs that either directly or indirectly contribute to the process of digestion are, the mouth, teeth, tongue, and gullet, the stomach, small intestines, the pancreas, the salivary glands, and the liver. Next to respiration, digestion is the chief function in the economy of life, as, without the nutritious fluid digested from the aliment, there would be nothing to supply the immense and constantly recurring waste of the system, caused by the activity with which the arteries at all periods, but especially during infancy and youth, are building up the frame and developing the body. In infancy (the period of which our present subject treats), the series of parts engaged in the process of digestion may be reduced simply to the stomach and liver, or rather its secretion,—the bile. The stomach is a thick muscular bag, connected above with the gullet, and, at its lower extremity, with the commencement of the small intestines. The duty or function of the stomach is to secrete from the arteries spread over its inner surface, a sharp acid liquid called the gastric juice; this, with a due mixture of saliva, softens, dissolves, and gradually digests the food or contents of the stomach, reducing the whole into a soft pulpy mass, which then passes into the first part of the small intestines, where it comes in contact with the bile from the gall-bladder, which immediately separates the digested food into two parts, one is a white creamy fluid called chyle, and the absolute concentration of all nourishment, which is taken up by proper vessels, and, as we have before said, carried directly to the heart, to be made blood of, and vitalized in the lungs, and thus provide for the wear and tear of the system. It must be here observed that the stomach can only digest solids, for fluids, being incapable of that process, can only be absorbed; and without the result of digestion, animal, at least human life, could not exist. Now, as Nature has ordained that infantine life shall be supported on liquid aliment, and as, without a digestion the body would perish, some provision was necessary to meet this difficulty, and that provision was found in the nature of the liquid itself, or in other words, THE MILK. The process of making cheese, or fresh curds and whey, is familiar to most persons; but as it is necessary to the elucidation of our subject, we will briefly repeat it. The internal membrane, or the lining coat of a calf's stomach, having been removed from the organ, is hung up, like a bladder, to dry; when required, a piece is cut off, put in a jug, a little warm water poured upon it, and after a few hours it is fit for use; the liquid so made being called rennet. A little of this rennet, poured into a basin of warm milk, at once coagulates the greater part, and separates from it a quantity of thin liquor, called whey. This is precisely the action that takes place in the infant's stomach after every supply from the breast. The cause is the same in both cases, the acid of the gastric juice in the infant's stomach immediately converting the milk into a soft cheese. It is gastric juice, adhering to the calf's stomach, and drawn out by the water, forming rennet, that makes the curds in the basin. The cheesy substance being a solid, at once undergoes the process of digestion, is separated into chyle by the bile, and, in a few hours, finds its way to the infant's heart, to become blood, and commence the architecture of its little frame. This is the simple process of a baby's digestion:-milk converted into cheese, cheese into chyle, chyle into blood, and blood into flesh, bone, and tegument-how simple is the cause, but how sublime and wonderful are the effects!
2457. The organs that contribute to digestion, either directly or indirectly, include the mouth, teeth, tongue, gullet, stomach, small intestines, pancreas, salivary glands, and liver. After respiration, digestion is the most important function in sustaining life because without the nutrients extracted from food, there would be nothing to replace the significant and ongoing wear and tear of the body, especially during growth periods like infancy and youth. In infancy (the phase we are discussing), the main organs involved in digestion can be simplified to just the stomach and the liver, or more specifically, its secretion—the bile. The stomach is a thick muscular pouch connected above to the gullet and at its lower end to the beginning of the small intestines. The function of the stomach is to produce a sharp acidic fluid called the gastric juice, which, when mixed with saliva, softens, dissolves, and gradually digests the food, turning it into a soft pulpy mass. This mass then moves into the first part of the small intestines, where it mixes with bile from the gallbladder, which splits the digested food into two parts: a white creamy fluid known as chyle and the concentrated nutrients, which are absorbed by specific vessels and, as mentioned earlier, transported directly to the heart to be transformed into blood and oxygenated in the lungs, providing for the body's maintenance. It’s important to note that the stomach can only digest solids; fluids cannot be digested and can only be absorbed. Without digestion, human life could not exist. Since nature has designed that infant life relies on liquid nourishment, and without digestion, the body would not survive, a solution was necessary, and that solution is the milk itself. Most people are familiar with the process of making cheese or fresh curds and whey; however, it is important for our topic, so we will briefly explain it. The inner membrane of a calf's stomach is removed and hung up to dry, similar to a bladder. When needed, a piece is cut off, placed in a jug, warm water is added, and after a few hours, it is ready to use; this resulting liquid is called rennet. A small amount of this rennet, added to warm milk, causes most of it to coagulate and releases a thin liquid known as whey. This is exactly what happens in an infant's stomach after every feed from the breast. The cause is the same in both situations: the gastric juice's acidity instantly transforms the milk into a soft cheese. The gastric juice, which sticks to the calf's stomach and is extracted by the water to create rennet, initiates curdling in the basin. The resulting cheesy substance, being solid, undergoes digestion, is broken down into chyle by bile, and within a few hours, is transported to the infant's heart to be converted into blood and kickstart the development of its small body. This is the straightforward process of a baby's digestion: milk turns into cheese, cheese into chyle, chyle into blood, and blood into flesh, bone, and skin—so simple in cause, yet the effects are truly sublime and remarkable!
2458. We have described the most important of the three functions that take place in the infant's body-respiration and digestion; the third, namely, circulation, we hardly think it necessary to enter on, not being called for by the requirements of the nurse and mother; so we shall omit its notice, and proceed from theoretical to more practical considerations. Children of weakly constitutions are just as likely to be born of robust parents, and those who earn their bread by toil, as the offspring of luxury and affluence; and, indeed, it is against the ordinary providence of Nature to suppose the children of the hardworking and necessitous to be hardier and more vigorous than those of parents blessed with ease and competence.
2458. We have discussed the most important of the three functions happening in an infant's body—breathing and digestion. We don’t think it’s necessary to go into detail about the third function, circulation, since it’s not particularly relevant for nurses and mothers. So, we'll skip that and move from theory to more practical points. Children with weak constitutions can just as easily be born to healthy parents who work hard as they can to parents who live in luxury and comfort. In fact, it’s contrary to the natural order to assume that the children of hard workers and those in need are tougher and stronger than the children of parents who are financially secure and comfortable.
2459. All children come into the world in the same imploring helplessness, with the same general organization and wants, and demanding either from the newly-awakened mother's love, or from the memory of motherly feeling in the nurse, or the common appeals of humanity in those who undertake the earliest duties of an infant, the same assistance and protection, and the same fostering care.
2459. All children enter the world in the same desperate helplessness, with the same basic needs and desires, looking for either the love of their newly-awakened mother, or the nurturing feelings from the nurse, or the shared compassion from those who take on the earliest responsibilities of caring for an infant, seeking the same help, protection, and nurturing care.
THE INFANT.
2460. We have already described the phenomena produced on the new-born child by the contact of air, which, after a succession of muscular twitchings, becomes endowed with voice, and heralds its advent by a loud but brief succession of cries. But though this is the general rule, it sometimes happens (from causes it is unnecessary here to explain) that the infant does not cry, or give utterance to any audible sounds, or if it does, they are so faint as scarcely to be distinguished as human accents, plainly indicating that life, as yet, to the new visitor, is neither a boon nor a blessing; the infant being, in fact, in a state of suspended or imperfect vitality,—a state of quasi existence, closely approximating the condition of a still-birth.
2460. We’ve already talked about what happens to a newborn when it comes in contact with air. After some muscle spasms, the baby starts to cry, announcing its arrival with a loud but brief series of cries. However, while this is usually the case, there are times (for reasons we don’t need to discuss here) when the baby doesn’t cry or make any sounds at all. If it does make noise, it’s so faint that it hardly sounds human, clearly showing that, for the newborn, life is neither a gift nor a blessing; the baby is actually in a state of weak or suspended vitality—a condition similar to stillbirth.
2461. As soon as this state of things is discovered, the child should be turned on its right side, and the whole length of the spine, from the head downwards, rubbed with all the fingers of the right hand, sharply and quickly, without intermission, till the quick action has not only evoked heat, but electricity in the part, and till the loud and sharp cries of the child have thoroughly expanded the lungs, and satisfactorily established its life. The operation will seldom require above a minute to effect, and less frequently demands a repetition. If there is brandy at hand, the fingers before rubbing may be dipped into that, or any other spirit.
2461. As soon as this situation is noticed, the child should be turned onto its right side, and the entire length of the spine, from the head downward, should be rubbed with all the fingers of the right hand, quickly and firmly, without stopping, until the vigorous action has not only generated heat but also stimulated the area, and until the loud and sharp cries of the child have fully expanded the lungs and effectively ensured its life. This process usually takes no more than a minute to achieve and rarely needs to be repeated. If brandy is available, the fingers can be dipped in it, or any other spirit, before rubbing.
2462. There-is another condition of what we may call "mute births," where the child only makes short ineffectual gasps, and those at intervals of a minute or two apart, when the lips, eyelids, and fingers become of a deep purple or slate colour, sometimes half the body remaining white, while the other half, which was at first swarthy, deepens to a livid hue. This condition of the infant is owing to the valve between the two sides of the heart remaining open, and allowing the unvitalized venous blood to enter the arteries and get into the circulation.
2462. There's another condition we can call "mute births," where the baby only makes short, ineffective gasps, about a minute or two apart. The lips, eyelids, and fingers turn a deep purple or slate color, while sometimes half the body stays white and the other half, which was initially dark, deepens to a livid shade. This condition happens because the valve between the two sides of the heart stays open, letting unoxygenated blood enter the arteries and mix into the circulation.
2463. The object in this case, as in the previous one, is to dilate the lungs as quickly as possible, so that, by the sudden effect of a vigorous inspiration, the valve may be firmly closed, and the impure blood, losing this means of egress, be sent directly to the lungs. The same treatment is therefore necessary as in the previous case, with the addition, if the friction along the spine has failed, of a warm bath at a temperature of about 80°, in which the child is to be plunged up to the neck, first cleansing the mouth and nostrils of the mucus that might interfere with the free passage of air.
2463. The goal in this case, like in the last one, is to expand the lungs as quickly as possible so that, with a strong inhalation, the valve can close tightly, preventing impure blood from escaping and directing it straight to the lungs. Therefore, the same treatment is needed as in the previous case, with the addition that if rubbing along the spine hasn’t worked, a warm bath at around 80°F should be used, where the child is submerged up to the neck, ensuring that the mouth and nostrils are cleared of any mucus that might block airflow.
2464. While in the bath, the friction along the spine is to be continued, and if the lungs still remain unexpended, while one person retains the child in an inclined position in the water, another should insert the pipe of a small pair of bellows into one nostril, and while the month is closed and the other nostril compressed on the pipe with the hand of the assistant, the lungs are to be slowly inflated by steady puffs of air from the bellows, the hand being removed from the mouth and nose after each inflation, and placed on the pit of the stomach, and by a steady pressure expelling it out again by the mouth. This process is to be continued, steadily inflating and expelling the air from the lungs, till, with a sort of tremulous leap, Nature takes up the process, and the infant begins to gasp, and finally to cry, at first low and faint, but with every gulp of air increasing in length and strength of volume, when it is to be removed from the water, and instantly wrapped (all but the face and mouth) in a flannel. Sometimes, however, all these means will fail in effecting an utterance from the child, which will lie, with livid lips and a flaccid body, every few minutes opening its mouth with a short gasping pant, and then subsiding into a state of pulseless inaction, lingering probably some hours, till the spasmodic pantings growing further apart, it ceases to exist.
2464. While in the bath, continue the friction along the spine. If the lungs still haven't expanded, one person should hold the child at an angle in the water while another person inserts a small pipe from a pair of bellows into one nostril. With the mouth closed and the other nostril pressed shut by the assistant's hand, the lungs will be slowly inflated with steady puffs of air from the bellows. After each puff, the hand should be removed from the mouth and nose and placed on the pit of the stomach to push the air out again through the mouth. Keep this process going—gently inflating and expelling air from the lungs—until, with a sort of tremulous leap, nature takes over and the infant starts to gasp and eventually cry. At first, the cry will be low and faint, but with each breath of air, it will grow longer and stronger. Once this happens, remove the child from the water and quickly wrap it in a flannel, leaving only the face and mouth exposed. However, sometimes all these methods may fail to elicit a sound from the child, who will lie there with blue lips and a limp body, occasionally opening its mouth for a short, gasping breath before falling back into a state of stillness without a pulse, possibly lingering like this for several hours, until the sporadic gasps fade and it stops existing.
2465. The time that this state of negative vitality will linger in the frame of an infant is remarkable; and even when all the previous operations, though long-continued, have proved ineffectual, the child will often rally from the simplest of means—the application of dry heat. When removed from the bath, place three or four hot bricks or tiles on the hearth, and lay the child, loosely folded in a flannel, on its back along them, taking care that there is but one fold of flannel between the spine and heated bricks or tiles. When neither of these articles can be procured, put a few clear pieces of red cinder in a warming-pan, and extend the child in the same manner along the closed lid. As the heat gradually diffuses itself over the spinal marrow, the child that was dying, or seemingly dead, will frequently give a sudden and energetic cry, succeeded in another minute by a long and vigorous peal, making up, in volume and force, for the previous delay, and instantly confirming its existence by every effort in its nature.
2465. The length of time that this state of low vitality can persist in an infant is surprising; and even when all previous treatments, no matter how lengthy, have failed, the child will often recover from the simplest means—applying dry heat. After removing the child from the bath, place three or four hot bricks or tiles on the hearth, and lay the child, loosely wrapped in a flannel, on its back along them, ensuring there is only one layer of flannel between the spine and the heated bricks or tiles. If you can't find these items, put a few clear pieces of red cinder in a warming pan and lay the child in the same position along the closed lid. As the heat spreads over the spinal cord, a child that seemed dying or even lifeless will often let out a sudden, strong cry, followed by a long and powerful wail, making up for the previous silence and immediately confirming its vitality with every effort possible.
2466. With these two exceptions,—restored by the means we have pointed out to the functions of life,—we will proceed to the consideration of the child HEALTHILY BORN. Here the first thing that meets us on the threshold of inquiry, and what is often between mother and nurse not only a vexed question, but one of vexatious import, is the crying of the child; the mother, in her natural anxiety, maintaining that her infant must be ill to cause it to cry so much or so often, and the nurse insisting that all children cry, and that nothing is the matter with it, and that crying does good, and is, indeed, an especial benefit to infancy. The anxious and unfamiliar mother, though not convinced by these abstract sayings of the truth or wisdom of the explanation, takes both for granted; and, giving the nurse credit for more knowledge and experience on this head than she can have, contentedly resigns herself to the infliction, as a thing necessary to be endured for the good of the baby, but thinking it, at the same time, an extraordinary instance of the imperfectibility of Nature as regards the human infant; for her mind wanders to what she has observed in her childhood with puppies and kittens, who, except when rudely torn from their nurse, seldom give utterance to any complaining.
2466. With these two exceptions—restored to the functions of life by the means we've discussed—let's consider the child HEALTHILY BORN. The first issue we encounter at the start of our inquiry, and one that often causes tension between mother and nurse, is the child’s crying; the mother, in her natural worry, believes her infant must be sick to cry so much or so often, while the nurse asserts that all babies cry, nothing is wrong, and that crying is actually beneficial, especially for infants. The anxious and inexperienced mother, although not fully convinced by these abstract statements claiming truth or wisdom, accepts them; she gives the nurse credit for more knowledge and experience in this area than she has and reluctantly tolerates the situation as a necessary trial for the baby’s well-being, all the while thinking it’s a remarkable example of how imperfect Nature is when it comes to human infants. Her thoughts drift back to her childhood observations of puppies and kittens, who rarely complain unless they're forcibly separated from their mother.
2467. We, undoubtedly, believe that crying, to a certain extent, is not only conducive to health, but positively necessary to the full development and physical economy of the infant's being. But though holding this opinion, we are far from believing that a child does not very often cry from pain, thirst, want of food, and attention to its personal comfort; but there is as much difference in the tone and expression of a child's cry as in the notes of an adult's voice; and the mother's ear will not be long in discriminating between the sharp peevish whine of irritation and fever, and the louder intermitting cry that characterizes the want of warmth and sleep. All these shades of expression in the child's inarticulate voice every nurse should understand, and every mother will soon teach herself to interpret them with an accuracy equal to language.
2467. We definitely believe that crying, to some extent, is not only good for health but also essential for the complete growth and well-being of an infant. However, while we hold this belief, we also recognize that children often cry due to pain, thirst, hunger, and the need for comfort. There’s as much variation in the tone and expression of a child's cry as there is in the notes of an adult's voice; a mother will quickly learn to distinguish between the sharp, whiny cry of irritation and fever and the louder, intermittent cry that signals a need for warmth and sleep. Every nurse should understand these different expressions in a child’s sounds, and every mother will soon train herself to interpret them as accurately as she would understand spoken language.
2468. There is no part of a woman's duty to her child that a young mother should so soon make it her business to study, as the voice of her infant, and the language conveyed in its cry. The study is neither hard nor difficult; a close attention to its tone, and the expression of the baby's features, are the two most important points demanding attention. The key to both the mother will find in her own heart, and the knowledge of her success in the comfort and smile of her infant. We have two reasons—both strong ones—for urging on mothers the imperative necessity of early making themselves acquainted with the nature and wants of their child: the first, that when left to the entire, responsibility of the baby, after the departure of the nurse, she may be able to undertake her new duties with more confidence than if left to her own resources and mother's instinct, without a clue to guide her through the mysteries of those calls that vibrate through every nerve of her nature; and, secondly, that she may be able to guard her child from the nefarious practices of unprincipled nurses, who, while calming the mother's mind with false statements as to the character of the baby's cries, rather than lose their rest, or devote that time which would remove the cause of suffering, administer, behind the curtains, those deadly narcotics which, while stupefying Nature into sleep, insure for herself a night of many unbroken hours. Such nurses as have not the hardihood to dose their infant charges, are often full of other schemes to still that constant and reproachful cry. The most frequent means employed for this purpose is giving it something to suck,—something easily hid from the mother,—or, when that is impossible, under the plea of keeping it warm, the nurse covers it in her lap with a shawl, and, under this blind, surreptitiously inserts a finger between the parched lips, which possibly moan for drink; and, under this inhuman cheat and delusion, the infant is pacified, till Nature, balked of its desires, drops into a troubled sleep. These are two of our reasons for impressing upon mothers the early, the immediate necessity of putting themselves sympathetically in communication with their child, by at once learning its hidden language as a delightful task.
2468. There's no part of a mother's duty to her child that a young mom should focus on more than understanding her baby's voice and the meaning behind its cries. This study isn't hard; paying close attention to the baby's tone and facial expressions are the two most important things to consider. The mother will find the key to both in her own heart, and her success will be evident in her baby's comfort and smile. We have two strong reasons for encouraging mothers to quickly understand their child's nature and needs: first, when the nurse leaves, she'll be able to take on her new responsibilities with more confidence instead of relying solely on her instincts and resources, without guidance through the mysteries of the baby's cries that resonate through her every nerve; and second, she'll be able to protect her baby from unscrupulous nurses who, while reassuring the mother with false claims about the baby's cries, prioritize their rest over truly addressing the cause of distress and may resort to administering harmful sedatives that lull the baby into a stupor for their own uninterrupted sleep. Nurses who don't have the audacity to drug the infants often have other tricks to quiet the constant crying. The most common method is giving the baby something to suck on—something easily hidden from the mother—or, when that's not possible, pretending to keep the baby warm by covering it with a shawl and secretly inserting a finger between its dry lips, which might be crying out for drink; under this cruel deception, the baby is calmed until its true needs are ignored and it falls into a restless sleep. These are two of the reasons we stress the immediate need for mothers to connect with their child empathetically by learning its hidden language as a rewarding task.
2469. We must strenuously warn all mothers on no account to allow the nurse to sleep with the baby, never herself to lay down with it by her side for a night's rest, never to let it sleep in the parents' bed, and on no account keep it, longer than absolutely necessary, confined in on atmosphere loaded with the breath of many adults.
2469. We must strongly advise all mothers never to let the nurse sleep with the baby, never to lie down with it at night, never to allow it to sleep in the parents' bed, and not to keep it confined longer than absolutely necessary in an environment filled with the breath of many adults.
2470. The amount of oxygen required by an infant is so large, and the quantity consumed by mid-life and age, and the proportion of carbonic acid thrown off from both, so considerable, that an infant breathing the same air cannot possibly carry on its healthy existence while deriving its vitality from so corrupted a medium. This objection, always in force, is still more objectionable at night-time, when doors and windows are closed, and amounts to a condition of poison, when placed between two adults in sleep, and shut in by bed-curtains; and when, in addition to the impurities expired from the lungs, we remember, in quiescence and sleep, how large a portion of mephitic gas is given off from the skin.
2470. The amount of oxygen that an infant needs is so high, and the quantity used up by adults as they age, along with the significant amount of carbon dioxide released by both, is so substantial that an infant breathing the same air cannot sustain a healthy life while drawing its energy from such a polluted environment. This concern is always valid, but it's even more troubling at night when doors and windows are shut, creating a situation close to poisoning, especially when an infant is between two sleeping adults with the bed curtains drawn. Plus, we must consider how much toxic gas is released from the skin during rest and sleep.
2471. Mothers, in the fullness of their affection, believe there is no harbour, sleeping or awake, where their infants can be so secure from all possible or probable danger as in their own arms; yet we should astound our readers if we told them the statistical number of infants who, in despite of their motherly solicitude and love, are annually killed, unwittingly, by such parents themselves, and this from the persistency in the practice we are so strenuously condemning. The mother frequently, on awaking, discovers the baby's face closely impacted between her bosom and her arm, and its body rigid and lifeless; or else so enveloped in the "head-blanket" and superincumbent bedclothes, as to render breathing a matter of physical impossibility. In such cases the jury in general returns a verdict of "Accidentally overlaid" but one of "Careless suffocation" would be more in accordance with truth and justice. The only possible excuse that can be urged, either by nurse or mother, for this culpable practice, is the plea of imparting warmth to the infant. But this can always be effected by an extra blanket in the child's crib, or, if the weather is particularly cold, by a bottle of hot water enveloped in flannel and placed at the child's feet; while all the objections already urged—as derivable from animal heat imparted by actual contact—are entirely obviated. There is another evil attending the sleeping together of the mother and infant, which, as far as regards the latter, we consider quite as formidable, though not so immediate as the others, and is always followed by more or less of mischief to the mother. The evil we now allude to is that most injurious practice of letting the child suck after the mother has fallen asleep, a custom that naturally results from the former, and which, as we hare already said, is injurious to both mother and child. It is injurious to the infant by allowing it, without control, to imbibe to distension a fluid sluggishly secreted and deficient in those vital principles which the want of mental energy, and of the sympathetic appeals of the child on the mother, so powerfully produce on the secreted nutriment, while the mother wakes in a state of clammy exhaustion, with giddiness, dimness of sight, nausea, loss of appetite, and a dull aching pain through the back and between the shoulders. In fact, she wakes languid and unrefreshed from her sleep, with febrile symptoms and hectic flushes, caused by her baby vampire, who, while dragging from her her health and strength, has excited in itself a set of symptoms directly opposite, but fraught with the same injurious consequences—"functional derangement."
2471. Mothers, in their deep affection, believe there’s no place, whether awake or asleep, where their babies can be safer from any danger than in their arms. However, we would shock our readers if we shared the alarming statistics of infants who, despite their mothers' care and love, are unintentionally killed each year by their parents, due to the very practices we are strongly criticizing. Often, when a mother wakes up, she finds her baby’s face pressed tightly between her breast and arm, and its body is stiff and lifeless; or the baby may be so wrapped up in the "head-blanket" and blankets on top that it’s unable to breathe at all. In these cases, the jury usually returns a verdict of "Accidentally overlaid," but a verdict of "Careless suffocation" would be more accurate and fair. The only excuse that can be offered by a mother or caregiver for this dangerous practice is the claim of providing warmth to the baby. But warmth can be provided just as effectively with an extra blanket in the crib, or, if it's particularly cold, by using a bottle of hot water wrapped in cloth placed at the baby’s feet, which eliminates all the previously mentioned issues related to direct contact heat. There is another serious concern with co-sleeping that affects the baby and, although less immediate, can still cause significant harm to the mother. This concern is the harmful practice of allowing the baby to suck once the mother has fallen asleep, a behavior that naturally follows from co-sleeping and is detrimental to both mother and child. It harms the baby by letting it drink an unhealthy amount of fluid that is slowly secreted and lacking essential nutrients, which the baby’s need for the mother's attention would otherwise improve. Meanwhile, the mother wakes up feeling exhausted, dizzy, with blurred vision, nausea, loss of appetite, and dull pain in her back and between her shoulders. Essentially, she wakes up feeling sluggish and unrefreshed, experiencing feverish symptoms and flushing caused by her baby, who, while draining her health and strength, has developed symptoms that are quite the opposite but lead to the same harmful consequences—"functional derangement."
THE MILK.
2472. As Nature has placed in the bosom of the mother the natural food of her offspring, it must be self-evident to every reflecting woman, that it becomes her duty to study, as far as lies in her power, to keep that reservoir of nourishment in as pure and invigorating a condition as possible; for she must remember that the quantity is no proof of the quality of this aliment.
2472. Since nature has provided mothers with the natural food for their children, it should be obvious to any thoughtful woman that it is her responsibility to do everything she can to keep that source of nourishment as pure and healthy as possible. She needs to keep in mind that the quantity does not indicate the quality of this food.
2473. The mother, while suckling, as a general rule, should avoid all sedentary occupations, take regular exercise, keep her mind as lively and pleasingly occupied as possible, especially by music and singing. Her diet should be light and nutritious, with a proper sufficiency of animal food, and of that kind which yields the largest amount of nourishment; and, unless the digestion is naturally strong, vegetables and fruit should form a very small proportion of the general dietary, and such preparations as broths, gruels, arrowroot, &c., still less. Tapioca, or ground-rice pudding, made with several eggs, may be taken freely; but all slops and thin potations, such as that delusion called chicken-broth, should be avoided, as yielding a very small amount of nutriment, and a large proportion of flatulence. All purely stimulants should be avoided as much as possible, especially spirits, unless taken for some special object, and that medicinally; but as a part of the dietary they should be carefully shunned. Lactation is always an exhausting process, and as the child increases in size and strength, the drain upon the mother becomes great and depressing. Then something more even than an abundant diet is required to keep the mind and body up to a standard sufficiently healthy to admit of a constant and nutritious secretion being performed without detriment to the physical integrity of the mother, or injury to the child who imbibes it; and as stimulants are inadmissible, if not positively injurious, the substitute required is to be found in malt liquor. To the lady accustomed to her Madeira and sherry, this may appear a very vulgar potation for a delicate young mother to take instead of the more subtle and condensed elegance of wine; but as we are writing from experience, and with the avowed object of imparting useful facts and beneficial remedies to our readers, we allow no social distinctions to interfere with our legitimate object.
2473. A mother who is breastfeeding should generally steer clear of all sedentary activities, get regular exercise, and keep her mind as engaged and happy as possible, especially through music and singing. Her diet should be light and nutritious, with enough animal-based foods that provide the most nourishment. Unless she has naturally strong digestion, vegetables and fruits should only make up a small part of her overall diet, and softer foods like broths, gruels, and arrowroot should be even less frequent. Tapioca or rice pudding made with several eggs can be consumed freely; however, all watery and thin foods, like what is misleadingly called chicken broth, should be avoided since they provide little nutrition and can cause gas. All stimulants should be limited as much as possible, especially alcohol, unless used for a specific medical reason; as part of the diet, they should be carefully avoided. Breastfeeding is always a draining process, and as the baby grows, the strain on the mother increases significantly. Therefore, more than just a plentiful diet is necessary to maintain a healthy mind and body capable of consistently producing nourishing milk without harming her physical well-being or the baby's health. Since stimulants are not suitable, the alternative needed is found in malt liquor. To a woman accustomed to her Madeira and sherry, this may seem like a coarse drink for a refined young mother to choose over the more sophisticated elegance of wine; but as we write from experience and with the aim of providing useful information and beneficial remedies to our readers, we do not let social norms interfere with our important purpose.
2474. We have already said that the suckling mother should avoid stimulants, especially spirituous ones; and though something of this sort is absolutely necessary to support her strength during the exhausting process, it should be rather of a tonic than of a stimulating character; and as all wines contain a large percentage of brandy, they are on that account less beneficial than the pure juice of the fermented grape might be. But there is another consideration to be taken into account on this subject; the mother has not only to think of herself, but also of her infant. Now wines, especially port wine, very often—indeed, most frequently—affect the baby's bowels, and what might have been grateful to the mother becomes thus a source of pain and irritation to the child afterwards. Sherry is less open to this objection than other wines, yet still it very frequently does influence the second participator, or the child whose mother has taken it.
2474. We've already mentioned that nursing mothers should steer clear of stimulants, especially alcoholic ones; and while something of this sort is really needed to help support her strength during this tiring process, it should be more of a tonic than a stimulating kind. Since all wines have a significant amount of brandy in them, they're generally less beneficial than just the pure juice of fermented grapes. But there’s another factor to consider; the mother needs to think not only of herself but also of her baby. Wines, especially port wine, often—actually, most of the time—affect the baby's digestive system, turning what might have been pleasant for the mother into a source of pain and discomfort for the child later on. Sherry is less likely to cause this issue compared to other wines, but it can still frequently impact the child whose mother drinks it.
2475. The nine or twelve months a woman usually suckles must be, to some extent, to most mothers, a period of privation and penance, and unless she is deaf to the cries of her baby, and insensible to its kicks and plunges, and will not see in such muscular evidences the griping pains that rack her child, she will avoid every article that can remotely affect the little being who draws its sustenance from her. She will see that the babe is acutely affected by all that in any way influences her, and willingly curtail her own enjoyments, rather than see her infant rendered feverish, irritable, and uncomfortable. As the best tonic, then, and the most efficacious indirect stimulant that a mother can take at such times, there is no potation equal to porter and stout, or, what is better still, an equal part of porter and stout. Ale, except for a few constitutions, is too subtle and too sweet, generally causing acidity or heartburn, and stout alone is too potent to admit of a full draught, from its proneness to affect the head; and quantity, as well as moderate strength, is required to make the draught effectual; the equal mixture, therefore, of stout and porter yields all the properties desired or desirable as a medicinal agent for this purpose.
2475. The nine or twelve months a woman typically breastfeeds can be, for many mothers, a time of sacrifice and hardship. Unless she's completely oblivious to her baby's cries, kicks, and movements, and doesn't recognize that these are signs of the discomfort her child is experiencing, she will avoid anything that might negatively impact the little one who depends on her for nourishment. She will realize that everything affecting her also influences her baby, and she'll gladly give up her own pleasures rather than see her infant become feverish, irritable, or uncomfortable. So, as the best tonic and the most effective indirect stimulant a mother can take during this time, there's nothing quite like a mix of porter and stout, or even better, an equal part of both. Ale, except in a few cases, is too light and too sweet, usually leading to acidity or heartburn, while stout alone is too strong to drink in large amounts, as it tends to affect the head. A good balance of quantity and moderate strength is needed for it to be effective, so mixing stout and porter in equal parts provides all the desired medicinal benefits for this purpose.
2476. Independently of its invigorating influence on the constitution, porter exerts a marked and specific effect on the secretion of milk; more powerful in exciting an abundant supply of that fluid than any other article within the range of the physician's art; and, in cases of deficient quantity, is the most certain, speedy, and the healthiest means that can be employed to insure a quick and abundant flow. In cases where malt liquor produces flatulency, a few grains of the "carbonate of soda" may advantageously be added to each glass immediately before drinking, which will have the effect of neutralizing any acidity that may be in the porter at the time, and will also prevent its after-disagreement with the stomach. The quantity to be taken must depend upon the natural strength of the mother, the age and demand made by the infant on the parent, and other causes; but the amount should vary from one to two pints a day, never taking less than half a pint at a time, which should be repeated three or four times a day.
2476. Besides its refreshing effect on the body, porter has a noticeable and specific impact on milk production; it’s more effective in increasing the supply of that fluid than any other substance a doctor might recommend; and, in cases of low milk supply, it’s the most reliable, fast, and healthiest option to ensure a quick and plentiful flow. If malt liquor causes bloating, adding a few grains of "soda bicarbonate" to each glass just before drinking can help neutralize any acidity that might be present in the porter and also prevent any stomach discomfort afterward. The amount to be consumed should depend on the mother's natural strength, the age and needs of the infant, and other factors; generally, it should be between one to two pints a day, never less than half a pint at a time, which should be repeated three or four times daily.
2477. We have said that the period of suckling is a season of penance to the mother, but this is not invariably the case; and, as so much must depend upon the natural strength of the stomach, and its power of assimilating all kinds of food into healthy chyle, it is impossible to define exceptions. Where a woman feels she can eat any kind of food, without inconvenience or detriment, she should live during her suckling as she did before; but, as a general rule, we are bound to advise all mothers to abstain from such articles as pickles, fruits, cucumbers, and all acid and slowly digestible foods, unless they wish for restless nights and crying infants.
2477. We’ve mentioned that the breastfeeding period can be tough on mothers, but that’s not always the case. Since it largely depends on how well a woman’s stomach can handle different foods and turn them into healthy nutrients, it’s hard to set strict rules. If a woman feels she can eat anything without any issues, she should continue to eat as she did before breastfeeding. However, as a general guideline, we advise all mothers to avoid foods like pickles, fruits, cucumbers, and any acidic or hard-to-digest items if they want to avoid sleepless nights and fussy babies.
2478. As regards exercise and amusement, we would certainly neither prohibit a mother's dancing, going to a theatre, nor even from attending an assembly. The first, however, is the best indoor recreation she can take, and a young mother will do well to often amuse herself in the nursery with this most excellent means of healthful circulation. The only precaution necessary is to avoid letting the child suck the milk that has lain long in the breast, or is heated by excessive action.
2478. When it comes to exercise and fun, we definitely wouldn’t stop a mother from dancing, going to a theater, or attending a gathering. However, dancing is the best indoor activity she can choose, and a young mother should often enjoy this great way to promote healthy circulation in the nursery. The only thing to watch out for is making sure the child doesn’t drink milk that has been in the breast too long or that has gotten warm due to too much activity.
2479. Every mother who can, should be provided with a breast-pump, or glass tube, to draw off the superabundance that has been accumulating in her absence from the child, or the first gush excited by undue exertion: the subsequent supply of milk will be secreted under the invigorating influence of a previous healthy stimulus.
2479. Every mother who can should have access to a breast pump or glass tube to remove the excess milk that has built up during her time away from the child, or from the initial rush caused by too much activity: the ongoing milk supply will be produced under the positive influence of a healthy initial stimulus.
2480. As the first milk that is secreted contains a large amount of the saline elements, and is thin and innutritious, it is most admirably adapted for the purpose Nature designed it to fulfil,—that of an aperient; but which, unfortunately, it is seldom permitted, in our artificial mode of living, to perform.
2480. The first milk that is released has a high concentration of saline elements and is thin and lacking in nutrition, making it perfectly suited for the purpose Nature intended it to serve—as a laxative. Unfortunately, in our man-made way of life, it is rarely allowed to fulfill this role.
2481. So opposed are we to the objectionable plan of physicking new-born children, that, unless for positive illness, we would much rather advise that medicine should be administered through the mother for the first eight or ten weeks of its existence. This practice, which few mothers will object to, is easily effected by the parent, when such a course is necessary for the child, taking either a dose of castor-oil, half an ounce of tasteless salts (the phosphate of soda), one or two teaspoonfuls of magnesia, a dose of lenitive electuary, manna, or any mild and simple aperient, which, almost before it can have taken effect on herself, will exhibit its action on her child.
2481. We are so against the questionable practice of giving medication to newborns that, unless there's a clear illness, we would much prefer to suggest that medicine be given through the mother for the first eight to ten weeks of the child's life. This approach, which few mothers would resist, can be easily managed by the parent when necessary for the child. The mother can take a dose of castor oil, half an ounce of tasteless salts (like phosphate of soda), one or two teaspoons of magnesia, a dose of lenitive electuary, manna, or any mild and simple laxative, which, almost before it affects her, will take effect on her child.
2482. One of the most common errors that mothers fall into while suckling their children, is that of fancying they are always hungry, and consequently overfeeding them; and with this, the great mistake of applying the child to the breast on every occasion of its crying, without investigating the cause of its complaint, and, under the belief that it wants food, putting the nipple into its crying mouth, until the infant turns in revulsion and petulance from what it should accept with eagerness and joy. At such times, a few teaspoonfuls of water, slightly chilled, will often instantly pacify a crying and restless child, who has turned in loathing from the offered breast; or, after imbibing a few drops, and finding it not what nature craved, throws back its head in disgust, and cries more petulantly than before. In such a case as this, the young mother, grieved at her baby's rejection of the tempting present, and distressed at its cries, and in terror of some injury, over and over ransacks its clothes, believing some insecure pin can alone be the cause of such sharp complaining, an accident that, from her own care in dressing, however, is seldom or ever the case.
2482. One of the most common mistakes mothers make while breastfeeding their children is thinking they are always hungry, which leads to overfeeding them. They also often make the big mistake of offering the breast every time the baby cries without checking the reason for the crying, assuming it's because the baby wants food. They put the nipple in the crying baby's mouth until the infant turns away in disgust and irritation from what should be eagerly accepted. During these times, a few teaspoons of slightly chilled water can quickly soothe a crying and restless baby who has rejected the offered breast. After trying a few drops and finding it doesn’t satisfy their natural needs, the baby may throw back their head in distaste and cry even harder. In such situations, the young mother, upset by her baby's refusal of the tempting offer and worried by their cries, nervously checks their clothes repeatedly, believing that some loose pin must be the cause of such sharp complaints, a problem that, due to her careful dressing, is rarely the case.
2483. These abrupt cries of the child, if they do not proceed from thirst, which a little water will relieve, not unfrequently occur from some unequal pressure, a fold or twist in the "roller," or some constriction round the tender body. If this is suspected, the mother must not be content with merely slackening the strings; the child should be undressed, and the creases and folds of the hot skin, especially those about the thighs and groins, examined, to see that no powder has caked, and, becoming hard, irritated the parts. The violet powder should be dusted freely over all, to cool the skin, and everything put on fresh and smooth. If such precautions have not afforded relief, and, in addition to the crying, the child plunges or draws up its legs, the mother may be assured some cause of irritation exists in the stomach or bowels,—either acidity in the latter or distension from overfeeding in the former; but, from whichever cause, the child should be "opened" before the fire, and a heated napkin applied all over the abdomen, the infant being occasionally elevated to a sitting position, and while gently jolted on the knee, the back should be lightly patted with the hand.
2483. The sudden cries of the child, if not due to thirst—which a little water can fix—often come from some kind of pressure, a fold or twist in the diaper, or some constriction around the delicate body. If this is suspected, the mother shouldn't just loosen the strings; the child should be undressed, and the creases and folds of the warm skin, especially around the thighs and groin, examined to ensure no powder has clumped and irritated those areas. Violet powder should be dusted generously over all to cool the skin, and everything should be put on fresh and smooth. If these steps don't help, and in addition to crying, the child is pulling up or drawing in its legs, the mother can be sure there's some irritation in the stomach or bowels—either acidity in the latter or bloating from overfeeding in the former; regardless of the cause, the child should be placed "face up" before the fire, and a warmed towel applied all over the belly, while occasionally holding the infant in a sitting position and gently bouncing them on the knee, patting the back lightly with the hand.
2484. Should the mother have any reason to apprehend that the cause of inconvenience proceeds from the bladder—a not unfrequent source of pain,—the napkin is to be dipped in hot water, squeezed out, and immediately applied over the part, and repeated every eight or ten minutes, for several times in succession, either till the natural relief is afforded, or a cessation of pain allows of its discontinuance. The pain that young infants often suffer, and the crying that results from it, is, as we have already said, frequently caused by the mother inconsiderately overfeeding her child, and is produced by the pain of distension, and the mechanical pressure of a larger quantity of fluid in the stomach than the gastric juice can convert into cheese and digest.
2484. If the mother has any reason to suspect that the source of discomfort is the bladder—a common cause of pain—the diaper should be dipped in hot water, wrung out, and immediately placed over the area. This should be repeated every eight to ten minutes for several times in a row, either until natural relief occurs or until the pain stops, allowing for it to be discontinued. The pain that young infants often experience, along with the crying that follows, is often caused by the mother unintentionally overfeeding her child. This results from the pain of bloating and the mechanical pressure of having more fluid in the stomach than the gastric juice can transform into digested food.
2485. Some children are stronger in the enduring power of the stomach than others, and get rid of the excess by vomiting, concluding every process of suckling by an emission of milk and curd. Such children are called by nurses "thriving children;" and generally they are so, simply because their digestion is good, and they have the power of expelling with impunity that superabundance of aliment which in others is a source of distension, flatulence, and pain.
2485. Some kids have a stronger stomach than others and can get rid of excess by throwing up, finishing each nursing session by spitting out milk and curd. These kids are referred to by nurses as "thriving children," and usually, they thrive simply because their digestion is good, allowing them to comfortably expel the extra food that causes bloating, gas, and pain in others.
2486. The length of time an infant should be suckled must depend much on the health and strength of the child, and the health of the mother, and the quantity and quality of her milk; though, when all circumstances are favourable, it should never be less than nine, nor exceed fifteen months; but perhaps the true time will be found in the medium between both. But of this we may be sure, that Nature never ordained a child to live on suction after having endowed it with teeth to bite and to grind; and nothing is more out of place and unseemly than to hear a child, with a set of twenty teeth, ask for "the breast."
2486. The length of time a baby should be breastfed really depends on the child's health and strength, the mother's health, and the amount and quality of her milk. However, when all factors are good, it should never be less than nine months or exceed fifteen months; though maybe the ideal time will be found somewhere in between. But we can be certain of one thing: Nature never intended for a child to live on just breast milk after giving it teeth to bite and chew. It’s also pretty inappropriate to hear a child with twenty teeth ask for "the breast."
2487. The practice of protracted wet-nursing is hurtful to the mother, by keeping up an uncalled-for, and, after the proper time, an unhealthy drain on her system, while the child either derives no benefit from what it no longer requires, or it produces a positive injury on its constitution. After the period when Nature has ordained the child shall live by other means, the secretion of milk becomes thin and deteriorated, showing in the flabby flesh and puny features of the child both its loss of nutritious properties and the want of more stimulating aliment.
2487. Extended wet-nursing is harmful to the mother, as it creates an unnecessary and, at that point, unhealthy strain on her body. Meanwhile, the child either gains nothing from what it no longer needs or suffers harm to its development. After the time that Nature has decided the child should be nourished by other means, the milk becomes thin and less nutritious, reflected in the child's weak body and delicate features, indicating both a loss of essential nutrients and the need for more stimulating food.
2488. Though we have said that twelve months is about the medium time a baby should be suckled, we by no means wish to imply that a child should be fed exclusively on milk for its first year; quite the reverse; the infant can hardly be too soon made independent of the mother. Thus, should illness assail her, her milk fail, or any domestic cause abruptly cut off the natural supply, the child having been annealed to an artificial diet, its life might be safely carried on without seeking for a wet-nurse, and without the slightest danger to its system.
2488. While we mentioned that twelve months is roughly the average time a baby should be breastfed, we certainly don’t mean to suggest that a child should only have milk for the first year; quite the opposite. It’s important for the baby to become independent of the mother as soon as possible. So, if she becomes ill, her milk supply decreases, or any home issue suddenly disrupts the natural supply, the child, being accustomed to a formula or alternative feeding, could continue to thrive without needing a wet-nurse, with no risk to its health.
2489. The advantage to the mother of early accustoming the child to artificial food is as considerable to herself as beneficial to her infant; the demand on her physical strength in the first instance will be less severe and exhausting, the child will sleep longer on a less rapidly digestible aliment, and yield to both more quiet nights, and the mother will be more at liberty to go out for business or pleasure, another means of sustenance being at hand till her return. Besides these advantages, by a judicious blending of the two systems of feeding, the infant will acquire greater constitutional strength, so that, if attacked by sickness or disease, it will have a much greater chance of resisting its virulence than if dependent alone on the mother, whose milk, affected by fatigue and the natural anxiety of the parent for her offspring, is at such a time neither good in its properties nor likely to be beneficial to the patient.
2489. The benefit to the mother of getting her child used to formula early on is just as significant for her as it is for her baby; the strain on her physical strength will be less intense and tiring at first, the baby will sleep longer on a slower-digesting food, leading to quieter nights for both, and the mother will have more freedom to go out for work or fun, since there’s another source of feeding available until she returns. In addition to these perks, by wisely mixing the two feeding methods, the baby will develop greater overall strength, so that if it does get sick, it will have a much better chance of fighting off the illness than if it relied solely on the mother, whose milk, impacted by fatigue and the natural worry of a parent for her child, is at such times neither helpful in its qualities nor likely to benefit the little one.
2490. All that we have further to say on suckling is an advice to mothers, that if they wish to keep a sound and unchapped nipple, and possibly avoid what is called a "broken breast," never to put it up with a wet nipple, but always to have a soft handkerchief in readiness, and the moment that delicate part is drawn from the child's mouth, to dry it carefully of the milk and saliva that moisten it; and, further, to make a practice of suckling from each breast alternately.
2490. All we have left to say about breastfeeding is this advice for mothers: if you want to maintain healthy and unchapped nipples, and possibly avoid what’s known as a "broken breast," never cover them with a wet nipple. Always have a soft handkerchief ready, and as soon as that tender area is removed from the child's mouth, carefully dry it off from the milk and saliva that have moistened it. Additionally, try to alternate breastfeeding from each breast.
Dress and Dressing, Washing, &c.
Clothing and Care, Washing, etc.
2491. As respects the dress and dressing of a new-born infant, or of a child in arms, during any stage of its nursing, there are few women who will require us to give them guidance or directions for their instruction; and though a few hints on the subject may not be out of place here, yet most women intuitively "take to a baby," and, with a small amount of experience, are able to perform all the little offices necessary to its comfort and cleanliness with ease and completeness. We shall, therefore, on this delicate subject hold our peace; and only, from afar, hint "at what we would," leaving our suggestions to be approved or rejected, according as they chime with the judgment and the apprehension of our motherly readers.
2491. When it comes to dressing a newborn or an infant during any stage of nursing, most women likely won't need our advice. Although a few pointers might be helpful, many women instinctively know how to care for a baby and, with minimal experience, can handle all the tasks needed for the baby’s comfort and cleanliness with ease. Therefore, we will keep our thoughts on this sensitive topic to ourselves. We'll simply suggest what we think is best and allow our motherly readers to decide based on their own judgment and understanding.
2492. In these days of intelligence, there are few ladies who have not, in all probability, seen the manner in which the Indian squaw, the aborigines of Polynesia, and even the Lapp and Esquimaux, strap down their baby on a board, and by means of a loop suspend it to the bough of a tree, hang it up to the rafters of the hut, or on travel, dangle it on their backs, outside the domestic implements, which, as the slave of her master, man, the wronged but uncomplaining woman carries, in order that her lord may march in unhampered freedom. Cruel and confining as this system of "backboard" dressing may seem to our modern notions of freedom and exercise, it is positively less irksome, less confining, and infinitely less prejudicial to health, than the mummying of children by our grandmothers a hundred, ay, fifty years ago: for what with chin-stays, back-stays, body-stays, forehead-cloths, rollers, bandages, &c., an infant had as many girths and strings, to keep head, limbs, and body in one exact position, as a ship has halyards.
2492. Nowadays, there are few women who haven’t seen how Indian mothers, the natives of Polynesia, and even the Lapps and Eskimos strap their babies onto a board and, with a loop, suspend them from a tree branch, hang them from the rafters of their homes, or, when traveling, dangle them on their backs while carrying household belongings. This is done so the woman, often subservient to her husband, can manage everything without hindrance, allowing her partner to move freely. While this method of "backboard" wrapping might seem harsh and restrictive compared to our current ideas of freedom and physical activity, it is actually less uncomfortable, less confining, and certainly less harmful to health than how our grandmothers treated infants a hundred, or even fifty, years ago. Back then, with chin-stays, back-stays, body-stays, forehead cloths, rollers, bandages, etc., a baby was bound with as many straps and restraints, to keep its head, limbs, and body in position, as a ship has halyards.
2493. Much of this—indeed we may say all—has been abolished; but still the child is far from being dressed loosely enough; and we shall never be satisfied till the abominable use of the pin is avoided in toto in an infant's dressing, and a texture made for all the under garments of a child of a cool and elastic material.
2493. Most of this—actually, we can say all of it—has been eliminated; but the child still isn't dressed loosely enough; and we won't be satisfied until the horrible use of the pin is completely avoided in toto in dressing infants, with all undergarments made from a cool and flexible material.
2494. The manner in which an infant is encircled in a bandage called the "roller," as if it had fractured ribs, compressing those organs—that, living on suction, must be, for the health of the child, to a certain degree distended, to obtain sufficient aliment from the fluid imbibed—is perfectly preposterous. Our humanity, as well as our duty, calls upon us at once to abrogate and discountenance by every means in our power. Instead of the process of washing and dressing being made, as with the adult, a refreshment and comfort, it is, by the dawdling manner in which it is performed, the multiplicity of things used, and the perpetual change of position of the infant to adjust its complicated clothing, rendered an operation of positive irritation and annoyance. We, therefore, entreat all mothers to regard this subject in its true light, and study to the utmost, simplicity in dress, and dispatch in the process.
2494. The way an infant is wrapped in a bandage called the "roller," as if it has broken ribs, compressing organs that need to expand for the child's health and proper feeding, is completely ridiculous. Our compassion and duty urge us to put an end to this practice by any means possible. Instead of making washing and dressing a comforting experience like it is for adults, the slow way it’s done, the number of items used, and the constant repositioning of the baby to adjust its complicated clothing turns it into a source of irritation and distress. Therefore, we strongly encourage all mothers to see this issue clearly and strive for simplicity in clothing and efficiency in the process.
2495. Children do not so much cry from the washing as from the irritation caused by the frequent change of position in which they are placed, the number of times they are turned on their face, on their back, and on their side, by the manipulations demanded by the multiplicity of articles to be fitted, tacked, and carefully adjusted on their bodies. What mother ever found her girl of six or seven stand quiet while she was curling her hair? How many times nightly has she not to reprove her for not standing still during the process! It is the same with the unconscious infant, who cannot bear to be moved about, and who has no sooner grown reconciled to one position than it is forced reluctantly into another. It is true, in one instance the child has intelligence to guide it, and in the other not; but the motitory nerves, in both instances, resent coercion, and a child cannot be too little handled.
2495. Children cry not so much because of the washing but due to the irritation caused by constantly changing their position. They are turned from their face to their back to their side, all because of the different clothing that needs to be fitted, pinned, and adjusted on their bodies. What mother has ever found her six or seven-year-old daughter standing still while she curls her hair? How many times at night does she have to tell her to stop fidgeting during the process! It’s the same with the unaware infant, who can’t stand being moved around and, just as they begin to get used to one position, they are suddenly shifted to another. True, in one case, the child has the intelligence to understand, while in the other, it does not; but the motitory nerves in both situations react poorly to being forced, and a child should not be handled too roughly.
2496. On this account alone, and, for the moment, setting health and comfort out of the question, we beg mothers to simplify their baby's dress as much as possible; and not only to put on as little as is absolutely necessary, but to make that as simple in its contrivance and adjustment as it will admit of; to avoid belly-bands, rollers, girths, and everything that can impede or confine the natural expansion of the digestive organs, on the due performance of whose functions the child lives, thrives, and develops its physical being.
2496. For this reason, and for now putting health and comfort aside, we ask mothers to simplify their baby's clothing as much as possible. Not only should they dress their babies in as little as necessary, but they should also ensure that the clothing is as simple as possible in its design and adjustment. They should avoid belly bands, rollers, girths, and anything else that could restrict or hinder the natural growth of the digestive organs, which are essential for the child's survival, health, and physical development.
REARING BY HAND.
Articles necessary, and how to use them,—Preparation of Foods.—
Baths.—Advantages of Rearing by Hand.
Articles needed, and how to use them,—Preparing Food.—
Baths.—Benefits of Hand Rearing.
2497. As we do not for a moment wish to be thought an advocate for an artificial, in preference to the natural course of rearing children, we beg our renders to understand us perfectly on this head; all we desire to prove is the fact that a child can be brought up as well on a spoon dietary as the best example to be found of those reared on the breast; having more strength, indeed, from the more nutritious food on which it lives. It will be thus less liable to infectious diseases, and more capable of resisting the virulence of any danger that may attack it; and without in any way depreciating the nutriment of its natural food, we wish to impress on the mother's mind that there are many cases of infantine debility which might eventuate in rickets, curvature of the spine, or mesenteric disease, where the addition to, or total substitution of, an artificial and more stimulating aliment, would not only give tone and strength to the constitution, but at the same time render the employment of mechanical means totally unnecessary. And, finally, though we would never—where the mother had the strength to suckle her child—supersede the breast, we would insist on making it a rule to accustom the child as early as possible to the use of an artificial diet, not only that it may acquire more vigour to help it over the ills of childhood, but that, in the absence of the mother, it might not miss the maternal sustenance; and also for the parent's sake, that, should the milk, from any cause, become vitiated, or suddenly cease, the child can be made over to the bottle and the spoon without the slightest apprehension of hurtful consequences.
2497. We definitely don’t want to be seen as supporters of an artificial way of raising children over the natural one, so we ask our readers to understand this clearly. All we want to demonstrate is that a child can thrive on a spoon diet just as well as those raised on breast milk; in fact, they might even be stronger due to the more nutritious food they consume. This would make them less susceptible to infections and better able to fight off any dangers that come their way. Without undermining the value of natural nourishment, we want to highlight that there are many cases of infant weakness that could lead to rickets, spinal curvature, or mesenteric disease, where introducing or fully replacing the diet with a more stimulating artificial option would not only strengthen the child’s constitution but would also eliminate the need for mechanical interventions. Lastly, while we would never suggest replacing breast milk where the mother can nurse, we believe it’s important to start introducing the child to an artificial diet as early as possible. This helps them gain strength to tackle childhood challenges and ensures that if the mother is unavailable, the child won’t miss out on essential nourishment. It also benefits the parent, as it means that if the mother’s milk becomes unsuitable or stops suddenly, the child can transition to a bottle or spoon without any fear of negative effects.
2498. To those persons unacquainted with the system, or who may have been erroneously informed on the matter, the rearing of a child by hand may seem surrounded by innumerable difficulties, and a large amount of personal trouble and anxiety to the nurse or mother who undertakes the duty. This, however, is a fallacy in every respect, except as regards the fact of preparing the food; but even this extra amount of work, by adopting the course we shall lay down, may be reduced to a very small sum of inconvenience; and as respects anxiety, the only thing calling for care is the display of judgment in the preparation of the food. The articles required for the purpose of feeding an infant are a night-lamp, with its pan and lid, to keep the food warm; a nursing-bottle, with a prepared teat; and a small pap saucepan, for use by day. Of the lamp we need hardly speak, most mothers being acquainted with its operation: but to those to whom it is unknown we may observe, that the flame from the floating rushlight heats the water in the reservoir above, in which the covered pan that contains the food floats, keeping it at such a heat that, when thinned by milk, it will be of a temperature suitable for immediate use. Though many kinds of nursing-bottles have been lately invented, and some mounted with India-rubber nipples, the common glass bottle, with the calf's teat, is equal in cleanliness and utility to any; besides, the nipple put into the child's mouth is so white and natural in appearance, that no child taken from the breast will refuse it. The black artificial ones of caoutchouc or gutta-percha are unnatural. The prepared teats can be obtained at any chemist's, and as they are kept in spirits, they will require a little soaking in warm water, and gentle washing, before being tied securely, by means of fine twine, round the neck of the bottle, just sufficient being left projecting for the child to grasp freely in its lips; for if left the full length, or over long, it will be drawn too far into the mouth, and possibly make the infant heave. When once properly adjusted, the nipple need never be removed till replaced by a new one, which will hardly be necessary oftener than once a fortnight, though with care one will last for several weeks. The nursing-bottle should be thoroughly washed and cleaned every day, and always rinsed out before and after using it, the warm water being squeezed through the nipple, to wash out any particles of food that might lodge in the aperture, and become sour. The teat can always be kept white and soft by turning the end of the bottle, when not in use, into a narrow jug containing water, taking care to dry it first, and then to warm it by drawing the food through before putting it into the child's mouth.
2498. For those unfamiliar with the system or who may have received misleading information, raising a child by hand might seem full of challenges and bring a lot of personal stress and worry to the caregiver or mother taking on the responsibility. However, this is entirely untrue except for the fact of preparing the food; even this extra work can be minimized significantly by following the methods we'll outline, and in terms of anxiety, the main concern is using good judgment in food preparation. The items needed for feeding an infant include a nightlamp with a pan and lid to keep the food warm, a nursing bottle with a fitted nipple, and a small saucepan for daytime use. We won't elaborate much on the lamp since most mothers know how it works; but for those unfamiliar, the flame from the floating rushlight heats the water in the upper reservoir, which keeps the covered pan with the food warm, so that when mixed with milk, it reaches a suitable temperature for immediate use. While many types of nursing bottles have been recently created, some even featuring rubber nipples, the standard glass bottle with a calf’s teat is just as clean and functional as any. Plus, the nipple that goes in the child’s mouth looks natural and white enough that any baby transitioning from breastfeeding will accept it. The black artificial ones made from rubber or gutta-percha look unnatural. Prepared teats can be purchased at any pharmacy, and because they're stored in alcohol, they need to soak in warm water and be gently washed before they're securely tied to the neck of the bottle with fine twine, leaving just enough of the teat sticking out for the child to hold comfortably with their lips; if it’s too long, it might go too far into the mouth and cause the baby to gag. Once properly fitted, the nipple doesn’t need to be taken off until it’s time to replace it, which shouldn’t be necessary more often than every two weeks, although with careful use one can last for several weeks. The nursing bottle needs to be washed and cleaned thoroughly every day and should always be rinsed out before and after use, squeezing warm water through the nipple to remove any leftover food particles that might spoil. The teat can stay soft and clean by placing the end of the bottle, when not in use, into a narrow jug of water, making sure to dry it first and then warming it by letting the food pass through before giving it to the baby.
Food, and its Preparation.
Food and Cooking.
2499. The articles generally employed as food for infants consist of arrowroot, bread, flour, baked flour, prepared groats, farinaceous food, biscuit-powder, biscuits, tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or manna croup, as it is otherwise called, which, like tapioca, is the prepared pith of certain vegetable substances. Of this list the least efficacious, though, perhaps, the most believed in, is arrowroot, which only as a mere agent, for change, and then only for a very short time, should ever be employed as a means of diet to infancy or childhood. It is a thin, flatulent, and innutritious food, and incapable of supporting infantine life with energy. Bread, though the universal régime with the labouring poor, where the infant's stomach and digestive powers are a reflex, in miniature, of the father's, should never be given to an infant under three months, and, even then, however finely beaten up and smoothly made, is a very questionable diet. Flour, when well boiled, though infinitely better than arrowroot, is still only a kind of fermentative paste, that counteracts its own good by after-acidity and flatulence.
2499. The common foods given to infants include arrowroot, bread, flour, baked flour, prepared groats, starchy foods, biscuit powder, biscuits, tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or manna croup, as it's also known, which is the processed pith of certain plants, similar to tapioca. Among these, arrowroot is the least effective, even though many believe in it, as it should only be used for a very short time as a dietary option for infants or young children. It’s a light, gas-forming, and nutritionally poor food that doesn't provide enough energy to support infant life. Bread, although a staple diet for the working poor, should not be given to infants under three months. Even when finely processed and made smooth, it's a very questionable food choice. Flour, when well cooked, is certainly better than arrowroot, but it’s still mainly a type of fermentative paste that can lead to acidity and gas, counteracting any benefits it may have.
2500. Baked flour, when cooked into a pale brown mass, and finely powdered, makes a far superior food to the others, and may be considered as a very useful diet, especially for a change. Prepared groats may be classed with arrowroot and raw flour, as being innutritious. The articles that now follow in our list are all good, and such as we could, with conscience and safety, trust to for the health and development of any child whatever.
2500. Baked flour, when cooked into a light brown consistency and finely ground, is a much better food option compared to others and can be regarded as a very beneficial diet, especially for variety. Prepared groats can be grouped with arrowroot and raw flour as lacking in nutrition. The items that follow in our list are all good and ones that we can, with confidence and safety, trust for the health and growth of any child.
2501. We may observe in this place, that an occasional change in the character of the food is highly desirable, both as regards the health and benefit of the child; and though the interruption should only last for a day, the change will be advantageous.
2501. We can see here that occasionally changing the type of food is very beneficial for the child's health and well-being; even if the change lasts just for a day, it will be helpful.
2502. The packets sold as farinaceous food are unquestionably the best aliment that can be given from the first to a baby, and may be continued, with the exception of an occasional change, without alteration of the material, till the child is able to take its regular meals of animal and vegetable food. Some infants are so constituted as to require a frequent and total change in their system of living, seeming to thrive for a certain time on any food given to them, but if persevered in too long, declining in bulk and appearance as rapidly as they had previously progressed. In such cases the food should be immediately changed, and when that which appeared to agree best with the child is resumed, it should be altered in its quality, and perhaps in its consistency.
2502. The packets sold as grain-based food are definitely the best nutrition for a baby from the start, and it can be continued, with the exception of occasional changes, without changing the type of food, until the child is ready to have regular meals of meat and vegetables. Some infants are just wired to need frequent and complete changes in their diet; they seem to thrive on whatever food is provided for a while, but if that food is continued too long, they start to lose weight and appear less healthy just as quickly as they had grown. In these cases, the food should be changed right away, and when the option that seemed to suit the child best is reintroduced, it should be adjusted in its quality, and possibly in its texture.
2503. For the farinaceous food there are directions with each packet, containing instructions for the making; but, whatever the food employed is, enough should be made at once to last the day and night; at first, about a pint basinful, but, as the child advances, a quart will hardly be too much. In all cases, let the food boil a sufficient time, constantly stirring, and taking every precaution that it does not get burnt, in which case it is on no account to be used.
2503. Each packet of grain-based food comes with directions for preparation; however, regardless of the food used, make sure to prepare enough to last for the day and night. Start with about a pint, but as the child grows, a quart will probably be necessary. In all cases, let the food boil for a sufficient time, constantly stirring and taking care to prevent it from burning; if it does burn, it should not be used under any circumstances.
2504. The food should always be made with water, the whole sweetened at once, and of such a consistency that, when poured out, and it has had time to cool, it will cut with the firmness of a pudding or custard. One or two spoonfuls are to be put into the pap saucepan and stood on the hob till the heat has softened it, when enough milk is to be added, and carefully mixed with the food, till the whole has the consistency of ordinary cream; it is then to be poured into the nursing-bottle, and the food having been drawn through to warm the nipple, it is to be placed in the child's mouth. For the first month or more, half a bottleful will be quite enough to give the infant at one time; but, as the child grows, it will be necessary not only to increase the quantity given at each time, but also gradually to make its food more consistent, and, after the third month, to add an egg to every pint basin of food made. At night the mother puts the food into the covered pan of her lamp, instead of the saucepan—that is, enough for one supply, and, having lighted the rush, she will find, on the waking of her child, the food sufficiently hot to bear the cooling addition of the milk. But, whether night or day, the same food should never be heated twice, and what the child leaves should be thrown away.
2504. The food should always be made with water, sweetened all at once, and have a consistency that, when poured out and cooled, can be cut like pudding or custard. Put one or two spoonfuls into the pap saucepan and place it on the stove until the heat softens it. Then add enough milk and mix it carefully until the whole mixture has the consistency of regular cream. Pour it into the nursing bottle, warm the nipple by drawing the food through it, and then place it in the child's mouth. For the first month or so, half a bottle will be enough for the baby at one time; however, as the child grows, you will need to increase the amount given each time and gradually make the food thicker. After the third month, add an egg to every pint of food made. At night, the mother should put the food into the covered pan of her lamp instead of the saucepan—just enough for one serving—and once the rush light is lit, she will find the food hot enough in the morning for adding milk. But whether it’s night or day, the same food should never be heated twice, and any leftovers from the child should be thrown away.
2505. The biscuit powder is used in the same manner as the farinaceous food, and both prepared much after the fashion of making starch. But when tops-and-bottoms, or the whole biscuit, are employed, they require soaking in cold water for some time previous to boiling. The biscuit or biscuits are then to be slowly boiled in as much water as will, when thoroughly soft, allow of their being beaten by a three-pronged fork into a fine, smooth, and even pulp, and which, when poured into a basin and become cold, will cut out like a custard. If two large biscuits have been so treated, and the child is six or seven months old, beat up two eggs, sufficient sugar to properly sweeten it, and about a pint of skim milk. Pour this on the beaten biscuit in the saucepan, stirring constantly; boil for about five minutes, pour into a basin, and use, when cold, in the same manner as the other.
2505. The biscuit powder is used just like other grain-based foods, and both are prepared similarly to how starch is made. However, when using whole biscuits or just the tops and bottoms, you need to soak them in cold water for a while before boiling. Then, the biscuit or biscuits should be boiled slowly in just enough water to make them soft enough to be beaten with a three-pronged fork into a fine, smooth pulp. Once poured into a bowl and cooled, it will set up like a custard. If you use two large biscuits and the child is six or seven months old, beat together two eggs, enough sugar to sweeten it, and about a pint of skim milk. Pour this mixture over the beaten biscuit in the saucepan, stirring constantly; boil for about five minutes, then pour it into a bowl and use it once it's cold, just like you would with the other mixture.
2506. This makes an admirable food, at once nutritious and strengthening. When tops-and-bottoms or rusks are used, the quantity of the egg may be reduced, or altogether omitted.
2506. This creates a great meal that is both nutritious and energizing. When using tops-and-bottoms or rusks, you can reduce the amount of egg or even leave it out completely.
2507. Semolina, or manna croup, being in little hard grains, like a fine millet-seed, must be boiled for some time, and the milk, sugar, and egg added to it on the fire, and boiled for a few minutes longer, and, when cold, used as the other preparations.
2507. Semolina, or manna croup, consists of small hard grains, similar to fine millet seeds. It should be boiled for a while, then milk, sugar, and egg should be added while it's still on the heat, and boiled for a few more minutes. Once it cools down, it can be used just like the other preparations.
2508. Many persons entertain a belief that cow's milk is hurtful to infants, and, consequently, refrain from giving it; but this is a very great mistake, for both sugar and milk should form a large portion of every meal an infant takes.
2508. Many people believe that cow's milk is harmful to infants, and as a result, avoid giving it; but this is a serious mistake, because both sugar and milk should make up a significant part of every meal an infant has.
TEETHING AND CONVULSIONS.
Fits, &c., the consequence of Dentition, and how to be treated.—The number and order of the Teeth, and manner in which they are cut.—First and Second Set.
Fits, etc., the result of Teething, and how to treat them.—The number and arrangement of the Teeth, and the way they emerge.—First and Second Set.
2509. About three months after birth, the infant's troubles may be said to begin; teeth commence forming in the gums, causing pain and irritation in the mouth, and which, but for the saliva it causes to flow so abundantly, would be attended with very serious consequences. At the same time the mother frequently relaxes in the punctuality of the regimen imposed on her, and, taking some unusual or different food, excites diarrhoea or irritation in her child's stomach, which not unfrequently results in a rash on the skin, or slight febrile symptoms, which, if not subdued in their outset, superinduce some more serious form of infantine disease. But, as a general rule, the teeth are the primary cause of much of the child's sufferings, in consequence of the state of nervous and functional irritation into which the system is thrown by their formation and progress out of the jaw and through the gums. We propose beginning this branch of our subject with that most fertile source of an infant's suffering—
2509. About three months after birth, the baby’s troubles often start; teeth begin to develop in the gums, causing pain and irritation in the mouth, which, without the excessive saliva it produces, would lead to much more serious issues. At the same time, the mother often becomes less consistent with the dietary rules she's been following, and by eating something unusual or different, she may upset her baby’s stomach, which can lead to diarrhea or irritation, sometimes resulting in a rash on the skin or mild fever symptoms. If these issues aren’t addressed early on, they can lead to more serious kinds of infant illnesses. However, generally speaking, the teeth are the main cause of a lot of the child's discomfort, due to the nervous and functional irritation caused by their formation and movement through the gums. We plan to start this section of our discussion with that most abundant source of an infant's suffering—
Teething.
Teething.
2510. That this subject may he better understood by the nurse and mother, and the reason of the constitutional disturbance that, to a greater or less degree, is experienced by all infants, may be made intelligible to those who have the care of children, we shall commence by giving a brief account of the formation of the teeth, the age at which they appear in the mouth, and the order in which they pierce the gums. The organs of mastication in the adult consist of 32 distinct teeth, 16 in either jaw; being, in fact, a double set. The teeth are divided into 4 incisors, 2 canine, 4 first and second grinders, and 6 molars; but in childhood the complement or first set consists of only twenty, and these only make their appearance as the development of the frame indicates the requirement of a different kind of food for the support of the system. At birth some of the first-cut teeth are found in the cavities of the jaw, in a very small and rudimentary form; but this is by no means universal. About the third month, the jaws, which are hollow and divided into separate cells, begin to expand, making room for the slowly developing teeth, which, arranged for beauty and economy of space lengthwise, gradually turn their tops upwards, piercing the gum by their edges, which, being sharp, assist in cutting a passage through the soft parts. There is no particular period at which children cut their teeth, some being remarkably early, and others equally late. The earliest age that we have ever ourselves known as a reliable fact was, six weeks. Such peculiarities are generally hereditary, and, as in this case, common to a whole family. The two extremes are probably represented by six and sixteen months. Pain and drivelling are the usual, but by no means the general, indications of teething.
2510. To help nurses and mothers understand this topic better, and to explain the constitutional disturbances that all infants experience to some degree, we will start with a brief overview of tooth development, the age at which they appear, and the order in which they break through the gums. In adults, the chewing organs consist of 32 distinct teeth, with 16 in each jaw, essentially forming a double set. The teeth are categorized into 4 incisors, 2 canines, 4 first and second premolars, and 6 molars; however, in childhood, the first set only has twenty teeth, which appear as the body develops and requires a different type of food for nourishment. At birth, some of the primary teeth may already be present in the jaw, though this is not always the case. Around the third month, the jaws, which are hollow and divided into separate sections, start to expand, making room for the slowly developing teeth. These teeth are arranged lengthwise for aesthetics and efficient spacing, gradually turning upward and breaking through the gum with their sharp edges, which help to cut a path through the soft tissue. There is no specific age when children begin to cut teeth; some do so extremely early, while others may be much later. The earliest reliable age we have seen is six weeks. These variations are usually hereditary and common within families. The extremes for teething can likely be represented by ages six and sixteen months. Pain and drooling are typical, but not universal, signs of teething.
2511. About the sixth month the gums become tense and swollen, presenting a red, shiny appearance, while the salivary glands pour out an unusual quantity of saliva. After a time, a white line or round spot is observed on the top of one part of the gums, and the sharp edge of the tooth may be felt beneath if the finger is gently pressed on the part. Through these white spots the teeth burst their way in the following order:—
2511. Around the sixth month, the gums become tight and swollen, appearing red and shiny, while the salivary glands produce an unusual amount of saliva. After a while, a white line or round spot appears on the top of a section of the gums, and the sharp edge of the tooth can be felt underneath if you press gently on that spot. Through these white spots, the teeth come in, following this order:—
2512. Two incisors in the lower jaw are first cut, though, in general, some weeks elapse between the appearance of the first and the advent of the second. The next teeth cut are the four incisors of the upper jaw. The next in order are the remaining two incisors of the bottom, one on each side, then two top and two bottom on each side, but not joining the incisors; and lastly, about the eighteenth or twentieth month, the four eye teeth, filling up the space left between the side teeth and the incisors; thus completing the infant's set of sixteen. Sometimes at the same period, but more frequently some months later, four more double teeth slowly make their appearance, one on each side of each jaw, completing the entire series of the child's first set of twenty teeth. It is asserted that a child, while cutting its teeth, should either dribble excessively, vomit after every meal, or be greatly relaxed. Though one or other, or all of these at once, may attend a case of teething, it by no means follows that any one of them should accompany this process of nature, though there can be no doubt that where the pain consequent on the unyielding state of the gums, and the firmness of the skin that covers the tooth, is severe, a copious discharge of saliva acts beneficially in saving the head, and also in guarding the child from those dangerous attacks of fits to which many children in their teething are liable.
2512. The two lower incisors come in first, although it usually takes a few weeks between the appearance of the first one and the second. Next, the four upper incisors come through. Then the last two lower incisors come in, one on each side, followed by two upper and two lower teeth on each side, which do not connect with the incisors. Finally, around the eighteenth or twentieth month, the four canine teeth emerge, filling the gap between the side teeth and the incisors, completing the baby's set of sixteen teeth. Sometimes, around the same time, but more often a few months later, four more molars gradually appear, one on each side of each jaw, completing the full set of twenty primary teeth. It's said that when a child is teething, they might drool a lot, vomit after every meal, or have loose stools. While any one of these, or all of them together, can happen during teething, it doesn’t mean they have to be part of the process. However, when the pain from the tight gums and the firmness of the tooth-covered skin is intense, excessive saliva production can help relieve discomfort and protect the child from the dangerous seizures that some children experience while teething.
2513. The Symptoms that generally indicate the cutting of teeth, in addition to the inflamed and swollen state of the gums, and increased flow of saliva, are the restless and peevish state of the child, the hands being thrust into the mouth, and the evident pleasure imparted by rubbing the finger or nail gently along the gum; the lips are often excoriated, and the functions of the stomach or bowels are out of order. In severe cases, occurring in unhealthy or scrofulous children, there are, from the first, considerable fever, disturbed sleep, fretfulness, diarrhoea, rolling of the eyes, convulsive startings, laborious breathing, coma, or unnatural sleep, ending, unless the head is quickly relieved, in death.
2513. The Symptoms that typically indicate teething, besides the swollen and inflamed gums and increased saliva production, include the child's restlessness and irritability, hands being shoved into the mouth, and noticeable enjoyment from gently rubbing a finger or nail along the gum; the lips are often raw, and the stomach or bowel functions may be disrupted. In severe cases, particularly in unhealthy or scrofulous children, there may be significant fever from the start, disturbed sleep, irritability, diarrhea, rolling of the eyes, twitching, labored breathing, unresponsive or unnatural sleep, which can lead to death if the head isn't quickly treated.
2514. The Treatment in all cases of painful teething is remarkably simple, and consists in keeping the body cool by mild aperient medicines, allaying the irritation in the gums by friction with a rough ivory ring or a stale crust of broad, and when the head, lungs, or any organ is overloaded or unduly excited, to use the hot bath, and by throwing the body into a perspiration, equalize the circulation, and relieve the system from the danger of a fatal termination.
2514. The Treatment for painful teething is quite straightforward and involves keeping the body cool with gentle laxatives, soothing the irritation in the gums by rubbing with a rough ivory ring or a stale piece of bread, and when the head, lungs, or any organ is stressed or overly stimulated, using a hot bath to induce sweating, which helps balance circulation and reduces the risk of serious complications.
2515. Besides these, there is another means, but that must be employed by a medical man; namely, scarifying the gums—an operation always safe, and which, when judiciously performed, and at a critical opportunity, will often snatch the child from the grasp of death.
2515. In addition to these, there’s another method, but it has to be done by a doctor; that is, cutting the gums—a procedure that is always safe, and when done wisely and at the right time, can often save the child from death.
2516. There are few subjects on which mothers have often formed such strong and mistaken opinions as on that of lancing an infant's gums, some rather seeing their child go into fits—and by the unrelieved irritation endangering inflammation of the brain, water on the head, rickets, and other lingering affections—than permit the surgeon to afford instant relief by cutting through the hard skin, which, like a bladder over the stopper of a bottle, effectually confines the tooth to the socket, and prevents it piercing the soft, spongy substance of the gum. This prejudice is a great error, as we shall presently show; for, so far from hurting the child, there is nothing that will so soon convert an infant's tears into smiles as scarifying the gums in painful teething; that is, if effectually done, and the skin of the tooth be divided.
2516. There are few topics on which mothers have often had such strong and mistaken beliefs as on the subject of lancing an infant's gums. Some prefer to see their child go into convulsions—and risk serious issues like brain inflammation, hydrocephalus, rickets, and other lingering conditions—rather than allow a surgeon to provide immediate relief by cutting through the hard skin, which, like a balloon over the top of a bottle, effectively keeps the tooth from breaking through and piercing the soft, spongy gum. This misconception is a significant mistake, as we will soon demonstrate; because, far from harming the child, there is nothing that can turn an infant's tears into smiles as quickly as scarifying the gums during painful teething—if done properly, and the skin of the tooth is divided.
2517. Though teething is a natural function, and to an infant in perfect health should be unproductive of pain, yet in general it is not only a fertile cause of suffering, but often a source of alarm and danger; the former, from irritation in the stomach and bowels, deranging the whole economy of the system, and the latter, from coma and fits, that may excite alarm in severe cases; and the danger, that eventuates in some instances, from organic disease of the head or spinal marrow.
2517. While teething is a natural process and should not cause pain in a perfectly healthy infant, it often leads to suffering and can be a source of concern and danger. Suffering arises from irritation in the stomach and intestines, disrupting the entire system, while concern stems from potential severe reactions like coma and seizures. In some cases, there can be serious risk due to underlying diseases of the brain or spinal cord.
2518. We shall say nothing in this place of "rickets," or "water on the head," which are frequent results of dental irritation, but proceed to finish our remarks on the treatment of teething. Though strongly advocating the lancing of the gums in teething, and when there are any severe head-symptoms, yet it should never be needlessly done, or before being satisfied that the tooth is fully formed, and is out of the socket, and under the gum. When assured on these points, the gum should be cut lengthwise, and from the top of the gum downwards to the tooth, in an horizontal direction, thus——, and for about half an inch in length. The operation is then to be repeated in a transverse direction, cutting across the gum, in the centre of the first incision, and forming a cross, thus +. The object of this double incision is to insure a retraction of the cut parts, and leave an open way for the tooth to start from—an advantage not to be obtained when only one incision is made; for unless the tooth immediately follows the lancing, the opening reunites, and the operation has to be repeated. That this operation is very little or not at all painful, is evidenced by the suddenness with which the infant falls asleep after the lancing, and awakes in apparently perfect health, though immediately before the use of the gum-lancet, the child may have been shrieking or in convulsions.
2518. We won’t discuss “rickets” or “water on the head,” which are common results of dental irritation, but we will finish our comments on treating teething. While we strongly recommend lancing the gums during teething, especially when there are severe head symptoms, it should never be done unnecessarily, or before confirming that the tooth is fully formed and has broken through the socket and gum. Once we’re sure of these points, the gum should be cut lengthwise from the top of the gum downwards towards the tooth, in a horizontal direction, like this——, and for about half an inch in length. Then, the procedure should be repeated in a transverse direction, cutting across the gum at the center of the first incision to create a cross, like this +. The purpose of this double incision is to ensure that the cut parts retract and create a clear path for the tooth to emerge—something that isn’t achieved with just a single incision; if the tooth doesn’t immediately come through after lancing, the opening closes up, and the procedure has to be redone. The fact that this operation is very little or not painful at all is shown by how quickly the infant falls asleep after lancing, only to wake up seemingly perfectly healthy, even if they were screaming or in convulsions right before the gum-lancet was used.
Convulsions, or Infantine Fits.
Seizures, or Baby Fits.
2519. From their birth till after teething, infants are more or less subject or liable to sudden fits, which often, without any assignable cause, will attack the child in a moment, and while in the mother's arms; and which, according to their frequency, and the age and strength of the infant, are either slight or dangerous.
2519. From birth until after teething, babies are somewhat prone to sudden attacks that can strike them out of nowhere, often while they're in their mother's arms. Depending on how often these happen, as well as the baby's age and strength, they can be either mild or serious.
2520. Whatever may have been the remote cause, the immediate one is some irritation of the nervous system, causing convulsions, or an effusion to the head, inducing coma. In the first instance, the infant cries out with a quick, short scream, rolls up its eyes, arches its body backwards, its arms become bent and fixed, and the fingers parted; the lips and eyelids assume a dusky leaden colour, while the face remains pale, and the eyes open, glassy, or staring. This condition may or may not be attended with muscular twitchings of the mouth, and convulsive plunges of the arms. The fit generally lasts from one to three minutes, when the child recovers with a sigh, and the relaxation of the body. In the other case, the infant is attacked at once with total insensibility and relaxation of the limbs, coldness of the body and suppressed breathing; the eyes, when open, being dilated, and presenting a dim glistening appearance; the infant appearing, for the moment, to be dead.
2520. Whatever the underlying cause may be, the immediate reason is some irritation of the nervous system, leading to convulsions or a buildup of fluid in the brain, which can cause coma. In the first case, the baby lets out a sudden, sharp scream, rolls its eyes, arches its back, and its arms become bent and stiff with fingers spread apart; the lips and eyelids take on a dark, leaden color, while the face stays pale, and the eyes are open, glassy, or staring. This condition may or may not include twitching of the mouth and jerking movements of the arms. The episode usually lasts from one to three minutes, after which the child recovers with a sigh and relaxed body. In the other scenario, the baby immediately shows complete insensitivity and limp limbs, coldness of the body, and difficulty breathing; when open, the eyes are dilated and appear dim and shiny, making the infant look, for a moment, as if it were dead.
2521. Treatment.-The first step in either case is, to immerse the child in a hot bath up to the chin; or if sufficient hot water cannot be procured to cover the body, make a hip-bath of what can be obtained; and, while the left hand supports the child in a sitting or recumbent position, with the right scoop up the water, and run it over the chest of the patient. When sufficient water can be obtained, the spine should be briskly rubbed while in the bath; when this cannot be done, lay the child on the knees, and with the fingers dipped in brandy, rub the whole length of the spine vigorously for two or three minutes, and when restored to consciousness, give occasionally a teaspoonful of weak brandy and water or wine and water.
2521. Treatment.-The first step in either case is to immerse the child in a hot bath up to the chin; or if there isn’t enough hot water to cover the body, create a hip bath with what you have; and while using your left hand to support the child in a sitting or lying position, use your right hand to scoop up water and pour it over the patient’s chest. When there’s enough water, briskly rub the spine while in the bath; if that’s not possible, lay the child across your knees and, with your fingers dipped in brandy, vigorously rub the entire length of the spine for two or three minutes. Once the child regains consciousness, occasionally give a teaspoonful of diluted brandy and water or wine and water.
2522. An hour after the bath, it may be necessary to give an aperient powder, possibly also to repeat the dose for once or twice every three hours; in which case the following prescription is to be employed. Take of
2522. An hour after the bath, it might be necessary to give a laxative powder, possibly also to repeat the dose once or twice every three hours; in which case the following prescription is to be used. Take of
Powdered scammony 6 grains.
Grey powder 6 grains.
Antimonial powder 4 grains.
Lump sugar 20 grains.
Powdered scammony 6 grains.
Grey powder 6 grains.
Antimonial powder 4 grains.
Lump sugar 20 grains.
Mix thoroughly, and divide into three powders, which are to be taken as advised for an infant one year old; for younger or weakly infants, divide into four powders, and give as the other. For thirst and febrile symptoms, give drinks of barley-water, or cold water, and every three hours put ten to fifteen drops of spirits of sweet nitre in a dessert-spoonful of either beverage.
Mix well and split into three doses, which should be given as recommended for a one-year-old infant; for younger or weaker infants, divide into four doses and administer similarly. For thirst and fever symptoms, offer drinks of barley water or cold water, and every three hours, add ten to fifteen drops of sweet spirits of nitre to a dessert spoonful of either drink.
THRUSH, AND ITS TREATMENT.
2523. This is a disease to which infants are peculiarly subject, and in whom alone it may be said to be a disease; for when thrush shows itself in adult or advanced life, it is not as a disease proper, but only as a symptom, or accessory, of some other ailment, generally of a chronic character, and should no more be classed as a separate affection than the petechae, or dark-coloured spots that appear in malignant measles, may be considered a distinct affection.
2523. This is a disease that primarily affects infants, and only in them can it be considered a true illness; when thrush occurs in adults or older individuals, it is not a true disease but just a symptom or a sign of another condition, usually a chronic one, and shouldn’t be classified as a separate issue any more than the petechiae, or dark spots that appear in severe measles, can be regarded as a distinct problem.
2524. Thrush is a disease of the follicles of the mucous membrane of the alimentary canal, whereby there are formed small vesicles, or bladders, filled with a thick mucous secretion, which, bursting, discharge their contents, and form minute ulcers in the centre of each vessel. To make this formal but unavoidable description intelligible, we must beg the reader's patience while we briefly explain terms that may appear to many so unmeaning, and make the pathology of thrush fully familiar.
2524. Thrush is an infection of the mucous membrane in the digestive system, characterized by the formation of small blisters filled with thick mucus. When these blisters burst, they release their contents and create tiny ulcers at the center of each blister. To make this formal but necessary description easier to understand, we kindly ask the reader to bear with us as we briefly explain terms that may seem meaningless to some, and clarify the pathology of thrush.
2525. The whole digestive canal, of which the stomach and bowels are only a part, is covered, from the lips, eyes, and ears downwards, with a thin glairy tissue, like the skin that lines the inside of an egg, called the mucous membrane; this membrane is dotted all over, in a state of health, by imperceptible points, called follicles, through which the saliva, or mucous secreted by the membrane, is poured out.
2525. The entire digestive system, which includes the stomach and intestines, is lined from the lips, eyes, and ears downward with a thin, slimy layer similar to the inner skin of an egg, known as the mucous membrane. In a healthy state, this membrane is covered with tiny, invisible points called follicles, which release saliva or mucus secreted by the membrane.
2526. These follicles, or little glands, then, becoming enlarged, and filled with a congealed fluid, constitute thrush in its first stage; and when the child's lips and mouth appear a mass of small pearls, then, as these break and discharge, the second stage, or that of ulceration, sets in.
2526. These follicles, or small glands, then become larger and filled with a thick fluid, marking the first stage of thrush. When the child's lips and mouth look like a mass of small pearls, and as these break and release, the second stage, which involves ulceration, begins.
2527. Symptoms.—Thrush is generally preceded by considerable irritation, by the child crying and fretting, showing more than ordinary redness of the lips and nostrils, hot fetid breath, with relaxed bowels, and dark feculent evacuations; the water is scanty and high-coloured; whilst considerable difficulty in swallowing, and much thirst, are the other symptoms, which a careful observation of the little patient makes manifest.
2527. Symptoms.—Thrush is usually preceded by significant irritation, with the child crying and fussy, showing more than usual redness of the lips and nostrils, a hot and foul-smelling breath, loose stools, and dark, foul-smelling bowel movements; the urine is limited and dark-colored; along with notable difficulty swallowing and increased thirst, these are the other symptoms that careful observation of the little patient reveals.
2528. The situation and character of thrush show at once that the cause is some irritation of the mucous membrane, and can proceed only from the nature and quality of the food. Before weaning, this must be looked for in the mother, and the condition of the milk; after that time, in the crude and indigestible nature of the food given. In either case, this exciting cause of the disease must be at once stopped. When it proceeds from the mother, it is always best to begin by physicking the infant through the parent; that is to say, let the parent first take the medicine, which will sufficiently affect the child through the milk: this plan has the double object of benefiting the patient and, at the same time, correcting the state of the mother, and improving the condition of her milk. In the other case, when the child is being fed by hand, then proceed by totally altering the style of aliment given, and substituting farinaceous food, custards, blanc-mange, and ground-rice puddings.
2528. The situation and characteristics of thrush clearly indicate that the cause is due to some irritation of the mucous membrane, which can only stem from the type and quality of food. Before weaning, this should be examined in the mother and the quality of her milk; after that, it’s related to the rough and hard-to-digest food provided. In either case, this triggering cause of the illness must be addressed immediately. If it’s coming from the mother, it’s usually best to start by treating the infant through the parent; that is, the parent should take the medicine first, which will effectively affect the child through the milk. This approach serves the dual purpose of helping the patient while also improving the mother’s condition and the quality of her milk. In the other scenario, when the child is being bottle-fed, then completely change the type of food given by using options like starchy foods, custards, blanc-mange, and rice pudding.
2529. As an aperient medicine for the mother, the best thing she can take is a dessert-spoonful of carbonate of magnesia once or twice a day, in a cup of cold water; and every second day, for two or three times, an aperient pill.
2529. For a gentle laxative for the mother, the best option is a dessert spoonful of magnesium carbonate once or twice a day, mixed in a cup of cold water; and every other day, for two or three times, take a laxative pill.
2530. As the thrush extends all over the mouth, throat, stomach, and bowels, the irritation to the child from such an extent of diseased surface is proportionately great, and before attempting to act on such a tender surface by opening medicine, the better plan is to soothe by an emollient mixture; and, for that purpose, let the following be prepared. Take of
2530. Since the thrush spreads throughout the mouth, throat, stomach, and intestines, the irritation to the child from such a large area of diseased tissue is significantly severe. Rather than trying to treat such a sensitive area with medication right away, it’s better to calm it with a soothing mixture. For this purpose, prepare the following. Take of
Castor oil 2 drachms.
Sugar 1 drachm.
Mucilage, or powdered gum Arabic half a drachm.
Castor oil 2 drachms.
Sugar 1 drachm.
Mucilage, or powdered gum Arabic half a drachm.
Triturate till the oil is incorporated, then add slowly—
Triturate until the oil is mixed in, then add slowly—
Mint-water One ounce and a half
Laudanum Ten drops
Mint-water One and a half ounces
Laudanum Ten drops
Half a teaspoonful three times a day, to an infant from one to two years old; a teaspoonful from two to three years old; and a dessertspoonful at any age over that time. After two days' use of the mixture, one of the following powders should be given twice a day, accompanied with one dose daily of the mixture:—
Half a teaspoon three times a day for an infant aged one to two years; a teaspoon for ages two to three; and a dessert spoonful for any age older than that. After two days of using the mixture, one of the following powders should be given twice a day, along with one dose of the mixture daily:—
Grey powder 20 grains.
Powdered rhubarb 15 grains.
Scammony 10 grains. Mix.
Grey powder 20 grains.
Powdered rhubarb 15 grains.
Scammony 10 grains. Mix.
Divide into twelve powders, for one year; eight powders, from one to two; and six powders, from two to six years old. After that age, double the strength, by giving the quantity of two powders at once.
Divide into twelve doses for one year; eight doses from one to two years; and six doses from two to six years old. After that age, double the strength by giving two doses at once.
2531. It is sometimes customary to apply borax and honey to the mouth for thrush; but it is always better to treat the disease constitutionally rather than locally. The first steps, therefore, to be adopted are, to remove or correct the exciting cause—the mother's milk or food; allay irritation by a warm bath and the castor-oil mixture, followed by and conjoined with the powders.
2531. It's sometimes common to use borax and honey in the mouth for thrush; however, it's always better to treat the condition from the inside out rather than just the surface. Therefore, the first steps to take are to eliminate or adjust the triggering cause—the mother's milk or diet; soothe irritation with a warm bath and a castor-oil mixture, followed by and combined with the powders.
2532. To those, however, who wish to try the honey process, the best preparation to use is the following:-Rub down one ounce of honey with two drachms of tincture of myrrh, and apply it to the lips and mouth every four or six hours.
2532. For those who want to try the honey process, the best preparation is as follows: Mix one ounce of honey with two drachms of tincture of myrrh, and apply it to your lips and mouth every four to six hours.
2533. It is a popular belief, and one most devoutly cherished by many nurses and elderly persons, that everybody must, at some time of their life, between birth and death, have an attack of thrush, and if not in infancy, or prime of life, it will surely attack them on their death-bed, in a form more malignant than if the patient had been affected with the malady earlier; the black thrush with which they are then reported to be affected being, in all probability, the petechae or purple spots that characterize the worst form, and often the last stage, of typhoid fever.
2533. Many people, especially nurses and elderly folks, firmly believe that everyone will experience thrush at some point in their life, whether it's in childhood or during their prime. If they haven’t had it by then, they will likely face it on their deathbed, and it will be more severe than if they had encountered the condition earlier. The black thrush they’re said to suffer from is probably the petechiae or purple spots that are typical of the worst form, and often the final stage, of typhoid fever.
2534. In general, very little medicine is needed in this disease of the thrush—an alterative powder, or a little magnesia, given once or twice, being all, with the warm bath, that, in the great majority of cases, is needed to restore the mucous membrane to health. As thrush is caused by an excess of heat, or over-action in the lining membrane of the stomach and bowels, whatever will counteract this state, by throwing the heat on the surface, must materially benefit, if not cure, the disease: and that means every mother has at hand, in the form of a warm bath. After the application of this, a little magnesia to correct the acidity existing along the surface of the mucous membrane, is often all that is needed to throw the system into such a state as will effect its own cure. This favourable state is indicated by an excessive flow of saliva, or what is called "dribbling," and by a considerable amount of relaxation of the bowels-a condition that must not be mistaken for diarrhoea, and checked as if a disease, but rather, for the day or two it continues, encouraged as a critical evacuant.
2534. Generally, very little medication is needed for thrush—an alternative powder, or a bit of magnesia, given once or twice, along with a warm bath, is usually all that's required to restore the mucous membrane to health. Since thrush is caused by excessive heat or overactivity in the lining of the stomach and intestines, anything that counters this condition by drawing the heat to the surface will significantly help, if not cure, the disease: and every mother can easily provide this in the form of a warm bath. After this treatment, a bit of magnesia to neutralize the acidity on the surface of the mucous membrane is often sufficient to bring the body into a state that will allow it to heal itself. This favorable state is indicated by excessive saliva production, known as "dribbling," and noticeable relaxation of the bowels—a condition that should not be mistaken for diarrhea and treated as if it were a disease, but rather, for the day or two it lasts, should be encouraged as a necessary process.
2535. Should there be much debility in the convalescence, half a teaspoonful of stee wine, given twice a day in a little barley-water, will be found sufficient for all the purposes of a tonic. This, with the precaution of changing the child's food, or, when it lives on the mother, of correcting the quality of the milk by changing her own diet, and, by means of an antacid or aperient, improving the state of the secretion. Such is all the treatment that this disease in general requires.
2535. If there is significant weakness during recovery, half a teaspoon of sherry wine, given twice a day in a little barley water, will be enough as a tonic. This, along with the precaution of changing the child's food, or if it is breastfeeding, adjusting the mother's diet to improve the quality of the milk, and using an antacid or laxative to enhance the secretion, covers all the treatment this illness generally needs.
2536. The class of diseases we are now approaching are the most important, both in their pathological features and in their consequences on the constitution, of any group or individual disease that assails the human body; and though more frequently attacking the undeveloped frame of childhood, are yet by no means confined to that period. These are called Eruptive Fevers, and embrace chicken-pox, cow-pox, small-pox, scarlet fever, measles, milary fever, and erysipelas, or St. Anthony's fire.
2536. The group of illnesses we’re about to discuss are the most significant, both in their medical characteristics and their impact on the body, of any group or individual disease that affects humans. Although they more commonly target the underdeveloped bodies of children, they are definitely not limited to that age group. These are known as Eruptive Fevers, which include chickenpox, cowpox, smallpox, scarlet fever, measles, miliaria, and erysipelas, also called St. Anthony's fire.
2537. The general character of all these is, that they are contagious, and, as a general rule, attack a person only once in his lifetime; that their chain of diseased actions always begins with fever, and that, after an interval of from one to four days, the fever is followed by an eruption of the skin.
2537. The overall characteristic of all these is that they are contagious, and generally affect a person only once in their lifetime; their chain of symptoms always starts with a fever, and after an interval of one to four days, the fever is followed by a skin rash.
CHICKEN-POX, OR GLASS-POX; AND COW-POX, OR VACCINATION.
2538. CHICKEN-POX, or GLASS-POX, may, in strict propriety, be classed as a mild variety of small-pox, presenting all the mitigated symptoms of that formidable disease. Among many physicians it is, indeed, classed as small-pox, and not a separate disease; but as this is not the place to discuss such questions, and as we profess to give only facts, the result of our own practical experience, we shall treat this affection of glass-pox or chicken-pox, as we ourselves have found it, as a distinct and separate disease.
2538. CHICKEN-POX, or GLASS-POX, can be classified as a mild form of smallpox, showing all the reduced symptoms of that serious illness. Many doctors actually consider it to be smallpox, not a separate disease; however, since this isn’t the right place to talk about those debates, and since we aim to present only facts based on our own practical experience, we will treat the condition of glass-pox or chicken-pox, as we have encountered it, as a distinct and separate disease.
2539. Chicken-pox is marked by all the febrile symptoms presented by small-pox, with this difference, that, in the case of chicken-pox, each symptom is particularly slight. The heat of body is much less acute, and the principal symptoms are difficulty of breathing, headache, coated tongue, and nausea, which sometimes amounts to vomiting. After a term of general irritability, heat, and restlessness, about the fourth day, or between the third and fourth, an eruption makes its appearance over the face, neck, and body, in its first two stages closely resembling small-pox, with this especial difference, that whereas the pustules in small-pox have flat and depressed centres—an infallible characteristic of small-pox—the pustules in chicken-pox remain globular, while the fluid in them changes from a transparent white to a straw-coloured liquid, which begins to exude and disappear about the eighth or ninth day, and, in mild cases, by the twelfth desquamates, or peels off entirely.
2539. Chickenpox is characterized by all the fever symptoms found in smallpox, with one key difference: each symptom is generally milder. The body temperature is much less intense, and the main symptoms include difficulty breathing, headache, a coated tongue, and nausea, which can sometimes lead to vomiting. After a period of general irritability, heat, and restlessness, around the fourth day, or between the third and fourth day, a rash appears on the face, neck, and body. In its early stages, it closely resembles smallpox, but with a significant distinction: while the pustules in smallpox have flat and depressed centers—an unmistakable sign of smallpox—the pustules in chickenpox remain round. The fluid inside them changes from a clear white to a straw-colored liquid, which starts to leak and disappear around the eighth or ninth day, and in mild cases, completely peels off by the twelfth day.
2540. There can be no doubt that chicken-pox, like small-pox, is contagious, and under certain states of the atmosphere becomes endemic. Parents should, therefore, avoid exposing young children to the danger of infection by taking them where it is known to exist, as chicken-pox, in weakly constitutions, or in very young children, may superinduce small-pox, the one disease either running concurrently with the other, or discovering itself as the other declines. This, of course, is a condition that renders the case very hazardous, as the child has to struggle against two diseases at once, or before it has recruited strength from the attack of the first.
2540. There’s no doubt that chickenpox, like smallpox, is contagious and can become widespread under certain weather conditions. Parents should, therefore, avoid putting young children at risk of infection by taking them to places where it is known to be present, as chickenpox in weak children or very young kids can lead to smallpox, with one illness occurring alongside the other or appearing as the first one resolves. This situation is obviously very dangerous, as the child has to fight off two diseases at once or before they’ve gained strength from the first illness.
2541. Treatment.—In all ordinary cases of chicken-pox—and it is very seldom it assumes any complexity—the whole treatment resolves itself into the use of the warm bath, and a course of gentle aperients. The bath should be used when the oppression of the lungs renders the breathing difficult, or the heat and dryness of the skin, with the undeveloped rash beneath the surface, shows the necessity for its use.
2541. Treatment.—In most typical cases of chickenpox—and it rarely gets complicated—the entire treatment consists of using a warm bath and a series of mild laxatives. The bath should be used when lung congestion makes breathing hard, or when the skin feels hot and dry, with an undeveloped rash underneath, indicating that it’s needed.
2542. As the pustules in chicken-pox very rarely run to the state of suppuration, as in the other disease, there is no fear of pitting or disfigurement, except in very severe forms, which, however, happen so seldom as not to merit apprehension. When the eruption subsides, however, the face may be washed with elder-flower water, and the routine followed which is prescribed in the convalescent state of small-pox.
2542. Since the blisters in chicken pox hardly ever get to the point of infection like in other diseases, there's no worry about pitting or scarring, except in very severe cases, which are so rare that they don't really deserve concern. Once the rash goes away, you can wash the face with elderflower water and follow the usual care recommended during recovery from smallpox.
2543. COW-POX, properly speaking, is an artificial disease, established in a healthy body as a prophylactic, or preventive agent, against the more serious attack of small-pox, and is merely that chain of slight febrile symptoms and local irritation, consequent on the specific action of the lymph of the vaccination, in its action on the circulating system of the body. This is not the place to speak of the benefits conferred on mankind by the discovery of vaccination, not only as the preserver of the human features from a most loathsome disfigurement, but as a sanitary agent in the prolongation of life.
2543. COW-POX, in simple terms, is an artificial disease introduced into a healthy body as a preventive measure against the more severe threat of smallpox. It is essentially a series of mild fever symptoms and local irritation that result from the specific action of the vaccine lymph on the body's circulatory system. This isn't the right place to discuss the benefits that vaccination has brought to humanity, not just in maintaining the appearance of the human face and preventing a horrible disfigurement, but also as a health measure that helps extend life.
2544. Fortunately the State has now made it imperative on all parents to have their children vaccinated before, or by the end of, the twelfth week; thus doing away, as far as possible, with the danger to public health proceeding from the ignorance or prejudice of those parents whose want of information on the subject makes them object to the employment of this specific preventive; for though vaccination has been proved not to be always an infallible guard against small-pox, the attack is always much lighter, should it occur, and is seldom, if indeed ever, fatal after the precaution of vaccination. The best time to vaccinate a child is after the sixth and before the twelfth week, if it is in perfect health, but still earlier if small-pox is prevalent, and any danger exists of the infant taking the disease. It is customary, and always advisable, to give the child a mild aperient powder one or two days before inserting the lymph in the arm; and should measles, scarlet fever, or any other disease arise during the progress of the pustule, the child, when recovered, should be re-vaccinated, and the lymph taken from its arm on no account used for vaccinating purposes.
2544. Fortunately, the State now requires all parents to have their children vaccinated by the end of the twelfth week, which helps eliminate the risk to public health caused by the ignorance or biases of those parents who lack information about this important preventive measure. While vaccination is not always a guaranteed protection against smallpox, if someone does contract the disease, the symptoms are usually much milder and it is rarely fatal after vaccination. The ideal time to vaccinate a child is between the sixth and twelfth week, provided the child is in good health. However, it may be wise to vaccinate even earlier if smallpox is widespread and there is a risk of the infant catching the disease. It is common practice and advisable to give the child a gentle laxative one or two days before administering the vaccine. If the child develops measles, scarlet fever, or any other illness while the vaccination site is healing, the child should be re-vaccinated once they recover, and the lymph taken from their arm should never be used for further vaccinations.
2545. The disease of cow-pox generally takes twenty days to complete its course; in other words, the maturity and declension of the pustule takes that time to fulfil its several changes. The mode of vaccination is either to insert the matter, or lymph, taken from a healthy child, under the cuticle in several places on both arms, or, which is still better, to make three slight scratches, or abrasions, with a lancet on one arm in this manner, ,,",, and work into the irritated parts the lymph, allowing the arm to dry thoroughly before putting down the infant's sleeve; by this means absorption is insured, and the unnecessary pain of several pustules on both arms avoided. No apparent change is observable by the eye for several days; indeed, not till the fourth, in many cases, is there any evidence of a vesicle; about the fifth day, however, a pink areola, or circle, is observed round one or all of the places, surrounding a small pearly vesicle or bladder. This goes on deepening in hue till the seventh or eighth day, when the vesicle is about an inch in diameter, with a depressed centre; on the ninth the edges are elevated, and the surrounding part hard and inflamed. The disease is now at its height, and the pustule should be opened, if not for the purpose of vaccinating other children, to allow the escape of the lymph, and subdue the inflammatory action. After the twelfth day the centre is covered by a brown scab, and the colour of the swelling becomes darker, gradually declining in hardness and colour till the twentieth, when the scab falls, off, leaving a small pit, or cicatrix, to mark the seat of the disease, and for life prove a certificate of successful vaccination.
2545. The cowpox disease usually takes twenty days to run its course; in other words, it takes that long for the pustule to fully develop and then fade. The vaccination method involves either inserting the material, or lymph, collected from a healthy child into several spots under the skin on both arms, or preferably, making three small scratches or abrasions with a lancet on one arm like this: ,,",, and rubbing the lymph into the irritated areas, allowing the arm to dry completely before putting the infant's sleeve back down; this ensures absorption and avoids the unnecessary discomfort of having several pustules on both arms. For several days, no visible change can be seen; in fact, often not until the fourth day is there any sign of a vesicle; however, by the fifth day, a pink halo or circle appears around one or more of the spots, encircling a small pearly vesicle or blister. This continues to darken until the seventh or eighth day, when the vesicle reaches about an inch in diameter with a depressed center; on the ninth day, the edges becomes raised, and the surrounding area is hard and inflamed. The condition is now at its peak, and the pustule should be opened, whether to vaccinate other children or to allow the lymph to escape and reduce the inflammation. After the twelfth day, a brown scab covers the center, and the swelling's color deepens, gradually softening and fading until the twentieth day, when the scab falls off, leaving a small pit or scar as a mark of where the disease was, serving as a lifelong proof of successful vaccination.
2546. In some children the inflammation and swelling of the arm is excessive, and extremely painful, and the fever, about the ninth or tenth day, very high; the pustule, therefore, at that time, should sometimes be opened, the arm fomented every two hours with a warm bread poultice, and an aperient powder given to the infant.
2546. In some children, the inflammation and swelling of the arm can be severe and very painful, and the fever, around the ninth or tenth day, can be quite high; therefore, the pustule should sometimes be opened at that time, the arm treated every two hours with a warm bread poultice, and a mild laxative given to the infant.
MEASLES AND SCARLET FEVER, WITH THE TREATMENT OF BOTH.
Measles.
Measles.
2547. This much-dreaded disease, which forms the next subject in our series of infantine diseases, and which entails more evils on the health of childhood than any other description of physical suffering to which that age of life is subject, may be considered more an affection of the venous circulation, tending to general and local congestion, attended with a diseased condition of the blood, than either as a fever or an inflammation; and though generally classed before or after scarlet fever, is, in its pathology and treatment, irrespective of its after-consequences, as distinct and opposite as one disease can well be from another.
2547. This much-feared disease, which is the next topic in our series on childhood diseases, causes more harm to children’s health than any other type of physical suffering they face. It can be seen more as an issue with the venous circulation, leading to both general and localized congestion, accompanied by a diseased state of the blood, rather than simply a fever or an inflammation. Although it is usually classified before or after scarlet fever, in terms of its pathology and treatment, regardless of its long-term effects, it is as distinct and different from another disease as can be.
4548. As we have already observed, measles are always characterized by the running at the nose and eyes, and great oppression of breathing; so, in the mode of treatment, two objects are to be held especially in view; first, to unload the congested state of the lungs,—the cause of the oppressed breathing; and, secondly, to act vigorously, both during the disease and afterwards, on the bowels. At the same time it cannot be too strongly borne in mind, that though the patient in measles should on no account be kept unduly hot, more care than in most infantine complaints should be taken to guard the body from cold, or any abrupt changes of temperature. With these special observations, we shall proceed to give a description of the disease, as recognized by its usual—
4548. As we’ve already noted, measles are always marked by a runny nose and eyes, along with significant difficulty in breathing; therefore, in treatment, there are two main goals to focus on: first, to relieve the congested state of the lungs, which causes the breathing difficulties; and second, to actively manage the bowels, both during the illness and afterward. At the same time, it’s crucial to emphasize that although a measles patient should definitely not be kept too hot, more care than with most childhood illnesses should be taken to protect the body from cold or any sudden changes in temperature. With these important points in mind, we will proceed to provide a description of the disease, as recognized by its usual—
2549. Symptoms, which commence with cold chills and flushes, lassitude, heaviness, pain in the head, and drowsiness, cough, hoarseness, and extreme difficulty of breathing, frequent sneezing, deduction or running at the eyes and nose, nausea, sometimes vomiting, thirst, a furred tongue; the pulse throughout is quick, and sometimes full and soft, at others hard and small, with other indications of an inflammatory nature.
2549. Symptoms, which start with cold chills and hot flashes, fatigue, heaviness, headaches, and drowsiness, cough, hoarseness, and severe difficulty breathing, frequent sneezing, watery or runny eyes and nose, nausea, sometimes vomiting, thirst, a coated tongue; the pulse is generally rapid, and sometimes strong and soft, while other times weak and small, along with other signs of inflammation.
2550. On the third day, small red points make their appearance, first on the face and neck, gradually extending over the upper and lower part of the body. On the fifth day, the vivid red of the eruption changes into a brownish hue; and, in two or three days more, the rash entirely disappears, leaving a loose powdery desquamation on the skin, which rubs off like dandriff. At this stage of the disease a diarrhoea frequently comes on, which, being what is called "critical," should never be checked, unless seriously severe. Measles sometimes assume a typhoid or malignant character, in which form the symptoms are all greatly exaggerated, and the case from the first becomes both doubtful and dangerous. In this condition the eruption comes out sooner, and only in patches; and often, after showing for a few hours, suddenly recedes, presenting, instead of the usual florid red, a dark purple or blackish hue; a dark brown fur forms on the gums and mouth, the breathing becomes laborious, delirium supervenes, and, if unrelieved, is followed by coma; a fetid diarrhoea takes place, and the patient sinks under the congested state of the lungs and the oppressed functions of the brain.
2550. On the third day, small red spots start to appear, first on the face and neck, and gradually spreading to the upper and lower parts of the body. By the fifth day, the bright red rash changes to a brownish color; in two or three more days, the rash completely disappears, leaving a loose, powdery layer on the skin that rubs off like dandruff. At this stage of the illness, diarrhea often occurs, which is considered "critical" and should never be stopped unless it's extremely severe. Measles can sometimes take on a typhoid or severe form, where the symptoms become much worse, making the case more uncertain and dangerous from the start. In this state, the rash appears earlier and only in patches; it often shows up for a few hours and then suddenly disappears, changing from the usual bright red to a dark purple or blackish color. A dark brown layer develops on the gums and mouth, breathing becomes difficult, delirium sets in, and if not treated, it leads to coma. A foul-smelling diarrhea occurs, and the patient succumbs to the congested state of the lungs and impaired brain function.
2551. The unfavourable symptoms in measles are a high degree of fever, the excessive heat and dryness of the skin, hurried and short breathing, and a particularly hard pulse. The sequels, or after-consequences, of measles are, croup, bronchitis, mesenteric disease, abscesses behind the ear, ophthalmia, and glandular swellings in other parts of the body.
2551. The negative symptoms of measles include a high fever, dry and hot skin, rapid and short breathing, and a particularly strong pulse. The aftereffects, or consequences, of measles are croup, bronchitis, mesenteric disease, abscesses behind the ear, eye inflammation, and swelling of glands in other parts of the body.
2552. Treatment.—In the first place, the patient should be kept in a cool room, the temperature of which must be regulated to suit the child's feelings of comfort, and the diet adapted to the strictest principles of abstinence. When the inflammatory symptoms are severe, bleeding, in some form, is often necessary, though, when adopted, it must be in the first stage of the disease; and, if the lungs are the apprehended seat of the inflammation, two or more leeches, according to the age and strength of the patient, must be applied to the upper part of the chest, followed by a small blister; or the blister may be substituted for the leeches, the attendant bearing in mind, that the benefit effected by the blister can always be considerably augmented by plunging the feet into very hot water about a couple of hours after applying the blister, and kept in the water for about two minutes. And let it further be remembered, that this immersion of the feet in hot water may be adopted at any time or stage of the disease; and that, whenever the head or lungs are oppressed, relief will always accrue from its sudden and brief employment. When the symptoms commence with much shivering, and the skin early assumes a hot, dry character, the appearance of the rash will be facilitated, and all the other symptoms rendered milder, if the patient is put into a warm bath, and kept in the water for about three minutes. Or, where that is not convenient, the following process, which will answer quite as well, can be substituted:—Stand the child, naked, in a tub, and, having first prepared several jugs of sufficiently warm water, empty them, in quick succession, over the patient's shoulders and body; immediately wrap in a hot blanket, and put the child to bed till it rouses from the sleep that always follows the effusion or bath. This agent, by lowering the temperature of the skin, and opening the pores, producing a natural perspiration, and unloading the congested state of the lungs, in most cases does away entirely with the necessity both for leeches and a blister. Whether any of these external means have been employed or not, the first internal remedies should commence with a series of aperient powders and a saline mixture, as prescribed in the following formularies; at the same time, as a beverage to quench the thirst, let a quantity of barley-water be made, slightly acidulated by the juice of an orange, and partially sweetened by some sugar-candy; and of which, when properly made and cold, let the patient drink as often as thirst, or the dryness of the mouth, renders necessary.
2552. Treatment.—First, the patient should be kept in a cool room, with the temperature adjusted for the child's comfort, and the diet strictly followed. When the inflammatory symptoms are intense, some form of bleeding is often needed, but it needs to be done during the first stage of the illness; if the lungs are suspected to be inflamed, apply two or more leeches to the upper part of the chest, depending on the patient's age and strength, followed by a small blister. Alternatively, a blister may replace the leeches, keeping in mind that the benefit from the blister can be significantly increased by soaking the feet in very hot water about two hours after applying it, for about two minutes. It's also important to note that this foot immersion in hot water can be done at any point during the illness, and whenever the head or lungs feel pressured, quick relief will come from this brief treatment. When the symptoms start with intense shivering and the skin quickly becomes hot and dry, putting the patient in a warm bath for about three minutes will help the rash appear and make the other symptoms less severe. If a bath isn’t practical, an alternative is to place the child, undressed, in a tub and pour warm water over their shoulders and body with several jugs, quickly. Then wrap the child in a hot blanket and put them to bed until they wake from the sleep that usually follows the bath. This method, by cooling the skin and opening the pores to encourage natural sweating, often completely eliminates the need for both leeches and a blister. Regardless of whether any external treatments were used, the first internal treatments should begin with a series of laxative powders and a saline solution, as outlined in the following formulas; additionally, prepare some barley-water with a bit of orange juice and sugar-candy for the patient to drink whenever they feel thirsty or experience dry mouth.
2553. Aperient Powders.—Take of scammony and jalap, each 24 grains; grey powder and powdered antimony, each 18 grains. Mix and divide into 12 powders, if for a child between two and four years of age; into 8 powders, if for a child between four and eight years of ago; and into 6 powders for between eight and twelve years. One powder to be given, in a little jelly or sugar-and-water, every three or four hours, according to the severity of the symptoms.
2553. Laxative Powders.—Take 24 grains each of scammony and jalap; 18 grains each of grey powder and powdered antimony. Mix and divide into 12 doses for a child aged two to four years; into 8 doses for a child aged four to eight years; and into 6 doses for a child aged eight to twelve years. One dose should be given in a little jelly or sugar water every three to four hours, depending on how severe the symptoms are.
2554. Saline Mixture.—Take of mint-water, 6 ounces; powdered nitre, 20 grains; antimonial wine, 3 drachms; spirits of nitre, 2 drachms; syrup of saffron, 2 drachms. Mix. To children under three years, give a teaspoonful every two hours; from that age to six, a dessertspoonful at the same times; and a tablespoonful every three or four hours to children between six and twelve.
2554. Saline Mixture.—Take 6 ounces of mint water; 20 grains of powdered nitrate; 3 drachms of antimonial wine; 2 drachms of spirits of nitrate; and 2 drachms of saffron syrup. Mix well. For children under three years old, give a teaspoon every two hours; for those aged three to six, a dessert spoonful at the same intervals; and for children between six and twelve, a tablespoonful every three to four hours.
2555. The object of these aperient powders is to keep up a steady but gentle action on the bowels; but, whenever it seems necessary to administer a stronger dose, and effect a brisk action on the digestive organs,—a course particularly imperative towards the close of the disease,—two of these powders given at once, according to the age, will be found to produce that effect; that is, two of the twelve for a child under four years, and two of the eight, and two of the six, according to the age of the patient.
2555. The purpose of these laxative powders is to maintain a consistent but mild bowel movement. However, when it's necessary to give a stronger dose to encourage a more active response from the digestive system—especially essential towards the end of the illness—administering two of these powders at once, based on the patient's age, will achieve that result. This means giving two of the twelve for a child under four years old, and two of the eight or two of the six, depending on the patient's age.
2556. When the difficulty of breathing becomes oppressive, as it generally does towards night, a hot bran poultice, laid on the chest, will be always found highly beneficial. The diet throughout must be light, and consist of farinaceous food, such as rice and sago puddings, beef-tea and toast; and not till convalescence sets in should hard or animal food be given.
2556. When breathing becomes really hard, especially at night, a hot bran poultice on the chest is usually really helpful. The diet during this time should be light and made up of starchy foods like rice and sago puddings, beef broth, and toast. Only when recovery starts should you introduce solid or meat-based foods.
2557. When measles assume the malignant form, the advice just given must be broken through; food of a nutritious and stimulating character should be at once substituted, and administered in conjunction with wine, and even spirits, and the disease regarded and treated as a case of typhus. But, as this form of measles is not frequent, and, if occurring, hardly likely to be treated without assistance, it is unnecessary to enter on the minutiae of its practice here. What we have prescribed, in almost all cases, will be found sufficient to meet every emergency, without resorting to a multiplicity of agents.
2557. When measles turn severe, the advice given earlier should be set aside; instead, nutritious and stimulating food should be introduced immediately, along with wine and possibly spirits, treating the illness like a case of typhus. However, since this severe form of measles is rare and, if it does occur, is unlikely to be managed without help, there’s no need to go into detail about its treatment here. What we have recommended in almost all cases should be enough to handle any situation without needing a lot of different treatments.
2558. The great point to remember in measles is, not to give up the treatment with the apparent subsidence of the disease, as the after-consequences of measles are too often more serious, and to be more dreaded, than the measles themselves. To guard against this danger, and thoroughly purify the system, after the subsidence of all the symptoms of the disease, a corrective course of medicine, and a regimen of exercise, should be adopted for some weeks after the cure of the disease. To effect this, an active aperient powder should be given every three or four clays, with a daily dose of the subjoined tonic mixture, with as much exercise, by walking, running after a hoop, or other bodily exertion, as the strength of the child and the state of the atmosphere will admit, the patient being, wherever possible, removed to a purer air as soon as convalescence warrants the change.
2558. The key thing to remember about measles is not to stop treatment just because the symptoms seem to improve, as the long-term effects of measles can often be more serious and should be feared more than the illness itself. To prevent this risk and thoroughly cleanse the body after all symptoms have disappeared, a follow-up treatment plan and a routine of exercise should be implemented for several weeks after recovery. To accomplish this, an active laxative powder should be given every three or four days, along with a daily dose of the tonic mixture mentioned below. The child should also engage in as much physical activity as they can handle, whether it’s walking, running after a hoop, or any other form of exercise, depending on their strength and the weather conditions. Whenever possible, the patient should be moved to a cleaner environment as soon as their recovery allows for it.
2559. Tonic Mixture.—Take of infusion of rose-leaves, 6 ounces; quinine, 8 grains; diluted sulphuric acid, 15 drops. Mix. Dose, from half a teaspoonful up to a dessertspoonful, once a day, according to the ago of the patient.
2559. Tonic Mixture.—Take 6 ounces of rose-leaf infusion; 8 grains of quinine; 15 drops of diluted sulfuric acid. Mix them together. The dosage is half a teaspoon to a dessert spoon once a day, depending on the age of the patient.
Scarlatina, or Scarlet Fever.
Scarlet Fever
2560. Though professional accuracy has divided this disease into several forms, we shall keep to the one disease most generally mot with, the common or simple scarlet fever, which, in all cases, is characterized by an excessive heat on the skin, sore throat, and a peculiar speckled appearance of the tongue.
2560. Although medical professionals have classified this illness into different types, we will focus on the most commonly encountered one, the typical or simple scarlet fever, which is marked by a high temperature on the skin, a sore throat, and a distinctive spotted look of the tongue.
2561. Symptoms.—Cold chills, shivering, nausea, thirst, hot skin, quick pulse, with difficulty of swallowing; the tongue is coated, presenting through its fur innumerable specks, the elevated papillae of the tongue, which gives it the speckled character, that, if not the invariable sign of scarlet fever, is only met with in cases closely analogous to that disease. Between the second and __third_ day, but most frequently on the third, a bright red efflorescence breaks out in patches on the face, neck, and back, from which it extends over the trunk and extremities, always showing thicker and deeper in colour wherever there is any pressure, such as the elbows, back, and hips; when the eruption is well out, the skin presents the appearance of a boiled lobster-shell. At first, the skin is smooth, but, as the disease advances, perceptible roughness is apparent, from the elevation of the rash, or, more properly, the pores of the skin. On the fifth and sixth days the eruption begins to decline, and by the eighth has generally entirely disappeared. During the whole of this period, there is, more or less, constant sore throat.
2561. Symptoms.—Cold chills, shivering, nausea, thirst, hot skin, a rapid pulse, and trouble swallowing; the tongue is coated, showing numerous specks through its coating, the raised bumps on the tongue giving it a speckled appearance that, while not an absolute sign of scarlet fever, is typically seen in cases very similar to it. Between the second and third day, most often on the third, bright red patches appear on the face, neck, and back, spreading to the trunk and limbs, being thicker and darker in color wherever there is pressure, such as on the elbows, back, and hips; when the rash is well out, the skin looks like a boiled lobster shell. Initially, the skin is smooth, but as the illness progresses, noticeable roughness develops due to the raised rash, or more accurately, the pores of the skin. On the fifth and sixth days, the rash starts to fade, and by the eighth day, it typically has completely disappeared. Throughout this entire period, there is a more or less constant sore throat.
2562. The Treatment of scarlet fever is, in general, very simple. Where the heat is great, and the eruption comes out with difficulty, or recedes as soon as it appears, the body should be sponged with cold vinegar-and-water, or tepid water, as in measles, poured over the chest and body, the patient being, as in that disease, wrapped in a blanket and put to bed, and the same powders and mixture ordered in measles administered, with the addition of a constant hot bran poultice round the throat, which should be continued from the first symptom till a day or two after the declension of the rash. The same low diet and cooling drink, with the same general instructions, are to be obeyed in this as in the former disease.
2562. The Treatment of scarlet fever is generally quite straightforward. When the fever is high, and the rash is slow to appear or fades quickly, the person should be sponge-bathed with cold vinegar and water, or lukewarm water, similar to the approach for measles. The solution should be poured over the chest and body, while the patient, like in measles, is wrapped in a blanket and put to bed. The same powders and mixture used for measles should be given, along with a constant hot bran poultice around the throat, which should continue from the first symptom until a day or two after the rash starts to fade. The same light diet and cooling drinks, along with the same general guidelines, should be followed just like in the previous illness.
2563. When the fever runs high in the first stage, and there is much nausea, before employing the effusions of water, give the patient an emetic, of equal, parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wine, in doses of from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to age. By these means, nine out of every ten cases of scarlatina may be safely and expeditiously cured, especially if the temperature of the patient's room is kept at an even standard of about sixty degrees.
2563. When the fever is high in the initial stage and there is a lot of nausea, before using water treatments, give the patient an emetic made of equal parts ipecac and antimonial wine, in doses ranging from a teaspoon to a tablespoon, depending on their age. With this approach, nine out of ten cases of scarlet fever can be safely and quickly treated, particularly if the patient's room temperature is maintained at around sixty degrees.
HOOPING-COUGH, CROUP, AND DIARRHOEA, WITH THEIR MODE OF TREATMENT.
Hooping-Cough.
Whooping cough.
2564. THIS is purely a spasmodic disease, and is only infectious through the faculty of imitation, a habit that all children are remarkably apt to fall into; and even where adults have contracted hooping-cough, it has been from the same cause, and is as readily accounted for, on the principle of imitation, as that the gaping of one person will excite or predispose a whole party to follow the same spasmodic example. If any one associates for a few days with a person who stammers badly, he will find, when released from his company, that the sequence of his articulation and the fluency of his speech are, for a time, gone; and it will be a matter of constant vigilance, and some difficulty, to overcome the evil of so short an association. The manner in which a number of school-girls will, one after another, fall into a fit on beholding one of their number attacked with epilepsy, must be familiar to many. These several facts lead us to a juster notion of how to treat this spasmodic disease. Every effort should, therefore, be directed, mentally and physically, to break the chain of nervous action, on which the continuance of the cough depends.
2564. THIS is purely a spasmodic disease and is only contagious through the tendency to mimic, a habit that all children are remarkably good at picking up. Even when adults catch whooping cough, it often comes from the same reason and can be explained as easily as how one person yawning will encourage an entire group to do the same. If someone spends a few days with a person who stammers badly, they will find that once they're out of that person's presence, their speech patterns and fluency are temporarily affected; it will take constant awareness and some effort to overcome the negative effects of such a brief association. Many people may have witnessed how a group of schoolgirls will sequentially have a fit upon seeing one of their peers experience an epileptic seizure. These instances give us a better understanding of how to treat this spasmodic disease. Therefore, every effort should be focused, both mentally and physically, on breaking the cycle of nervous reactions that the cough relies on.
2565. Symptoms.—Hooping-cough comes on with a slight oppression of breathing, thirst, quick pulse, hoarseness, and a hard, dry cough. This state may exist without any change from one to two or three weeks before the peculiar feature of the disease-the hoop-sets in. As the characteristics of this cough are known to all, it is unnecessary to enter here, physiologically, on the subject. We shall, therefore, merely remark that the frequent vomiting and bleeding at the mouth or nose are favourable signs, and proceed to the
2565. Symptoms.—Whooping cough starts with mild breathing difficulties, thirst, a rapid heartbeat, hoarseness, and a dry, persistent cough. This condition can last without change for one to three weeks before the distinct feature of the disease—the whoop—appears. Since everyone recognizes the characteristics of this cough, we don’t need to discuss them in detail here. We will simply note that frequent vomiting and bleeding from the mouth or nose are positive signs and continue to the
2566. Treatment, which should consist in keeping up a state of nausea and vomiting. For this purpose, give the child doses of ipecacuanha and antimonial wines, in equal parts, and quantities varying from half to one and a half teaspoonful once a day, or, when the expectoration is hard and difficult of expulsion, giving the following cough mixture every four hours. Take of
2566. Treatment should focus on maintaining a state of nausea and vomiting. To achieve this, administer the child equal parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wines, with doses ranging from half to one and a half teaspoons once a day. If the expectoration is hard and difficult to expel, give the following cough mixture every four hours. Take of
Syrup of squills 1/2 ounce.
Antimonial wine 1 ounce.
Laudanum 15 drops.
Syrup of Toulou 2 drachms.
Water 1-1/2 ounce.
Syrup of squills ½ ounce.
Antimonial wine 1 ounce.
Laudanum 15 drops.
Syrup of Toulou 2 drachms.
Water 1½ ounce.
Mix. The dose is from half a spoonful to a dessertspoonful. When the cough is urgent, the warm bath is to be used, and either one or two leeches applied over the breastbone, or else a small blister laid on the lower part of the throat.
Mix. The dose ranges from half a teaspoon to a tablespoon. When the cough is severe, use a warm bath, and apply one or two leeches over the breastbone, or place a small blister on the lower part of the throat.
2567. Such is the medical treatment of hooping-cough; but there is a moral regimen, based on the nature of the disease, which should never be omitted. And, on the principle that a sudden start or diversion of the mind will arrest a person in the act of sneezing or gaping, so the like means should be adopted with the hooping-cough patient; and, in the first stage, before the hooping has been added, the parent should endeavour to break the paroxysm of the cough by abruptly attracting the patient's attention, and thus, if possible, preventing the cough from reaching that height when the ingulp of air gives the hoop or crow that marks the disease; but when once that symptom has set in, it becomes still more necessary to endeavour, by even measures of intimidation, to break the spasmodic chain of the cough. Exercise in the open air, when dry, is also requisite, and charge of scene and air in all cases is of absolute necessity, and may be adopted at any stage of the disease.
2567. This is how hooping cough is treated medically, but there's also a behavioral approach based on the nature of the illness that should never be overlooked. The idea is that a sudden distraction can stop someone from sneezing or yawning, so similar techniques should be used for a patient with hooping cough. In the early stage, before the hooping begins, the parent should try to interrupt the coughing fit by quickly shifting the patient's focus. This could help prevent the cough from escalating to the point where the intake of air causes the characteristic whoop. However, once that symptom appears, it's even more important to break the cycle of coughing, even if it means using some form of intimidation. Fresh air exercise, especially when it’s dry, is also important, and changing the surroundings and atmosphere is essential at any stage of the illness.
Croup.
Croup.
2568. This is by far the most formidable and fatal of all the diseases to which infancy and childhood are liable, and is purely an inflammatory affection, attacking that portion of the mucous membrane lining the windpipe and bronchial tubes, and from the effect of which a false or loose membrane is formed along the windpipe, resembling in appearance the finger of a glove suspended in the passage, and, consequently, terminating the life of the patient by suffocation; for, as the lower end grows together and becomes closed, no air can enter the lungs, and the child dies choked. All dull, fat, and heavy children are peculiarly predisposed to this disease, and those with short necks and who make a wheezing noise in their natural breathing. Croup is always sudden in its attack, and rapid in its career, usually proving fatal within three days; most frequently commences in the night, and generally attacking children between the ages of three and ten years. Mothers should, therefore, be on their guard who have children predisposed to this disease, and immediately resort to the means hereafter advised.
2568. This is by far the most serious and deadly of all the diseases that can affect infants and young children, and it’s purely an inflammatory condition. It targets the part of the mucous membrane that lines the windpipe and bronchial tubes, leading to the formation of a false or loose membrane along the windpipe. This membrane looks like a glove finger hanging in the airway and can ultimately suffocate the patient. As the lower end closes up, no air can reach the lungs, causing the child to choke to death. Heavier, sluggish children are especially at risk for this disease, as well as those with short necks who have a wheezing sound when they breathe normally. Croup always strikes suddenly and progresses quickly, typically becoming fatal within three days; it often starts at night and tends to affect children between the ages of three and ten. Therefore, mothers of children at risk for this disease should stay alert and immediately follow the recommended steps provided later.
2569. Symptoms.—Languor and restlessness, hoarseness, wheezing, and short, dry cough, with occasional rattling in the throat during sleep, the child often plucking at its throat with its fingers; difficulty of breathing, which quickly becomes hard and laboured, causing great anxiety of the countenance, and the veins of the neck to swell and become knotted; the voice in speaking acquires a sharp, crowing, or croupy sound, while the inspirations have a harsh, metallic intonation. After a few hours, a quantity of thick, ropy mucus is thrown out, hanging about the mouth, and causing suffocating fits of coughing to expel.
2569. Symptoms.—Feeling weak and restless, hoarse, wheezy, and having a short, dry cough, with occasional rattling in the throat while sleeping. The child often pulls at its throat with its fingers; breathing becomes difficult, quickly turning hard and labored, causing great anxiety in the expression and the veins in the neck to swell and become knotted. The voice while speaking takes on a sharp, crowing, or croup-like sound, while the breaths produce a harsh, metallic quality. After a few hours, a thick, sticky mucus is expelled, lingering in the mouth and causing choking fits while trying to cough it out.
2570. Treatment.—Place the child immediately in a hot bath up to the throat; and, on removal from the water, give an emetic of the antimonial or ipecacuanha wine, and, when the vomiting has subsided, lay a long blister down the front of the throat, and administer one of the following powders every twenty minutes to a child from three to six years of age.
2570. Treatment.—Put the child straight into a hot bath up to the throat; after taking them out of the water, give an emetic with antimonial or ipecacuanha wine, and once the vomiting has stopped, apply a long blister on the front of the throat, and give one of the following powders every twenty minutes to a child aged three to six years.
2571. Take of calomel, 12 grains; tartar emetic, 2 grains; lump sugar, 30 grains. Mix accurately, and divide into 12 powders. For a child from six to twelve years, divide into 6 powders, and give one every half-hour.
2571. Take calomel, 12 grains; tartar emetic, 2 grains; lump sugar, 30 grains. Mix thoroughly and divide into 12 powders. For a child aged six to twelve years, divide into 6 powders and give one every half hour.
2572. Should the symptoms remain unabated after a few hours, apply one or two leeches to the throat, and put mustard poultices to the foot and thighs, retaining them about eight minutes; and, in extreme cases, a mustard poultice to the spine between the shoulders, and at the same time rub mercurial ointment into the armpits and the angles of the jaws.
2572. If the symptoms don’t improve after a few hours, apply one or two leeches to the throat and put mustard poultices on the foot and thighs, keeping them on for about eight minutes. In severe cases, place a mustard poultice on the spine between the shoulders and at the same time, rub mercurial ointment into the armpits and the corners of the jaw.
2573. Such is a vigorous and reliable system of treatment in severe cases of croup; but, in the milder and more general form, the following abridgment will, in all probability, be all that will be required:—First, the hot bath; second, the emetic; third, a mustard plaster round the throat for five minutes; fourth, the powders; fifth, another emetic in six hours, if needed, and the powders continued without intermission while the urgency of the symptoms continues. When relief has been obtained, these are to be discontinued, and a dose of senna tea given to act on the bowels.
2573. This is a strong and dependable treatment system for severe cases of croup; however, for milder and more general cases, the following summary will likely be all that’s needed:—First, a hot bath; second, an emetic; third, a mustard plaster around the throat for five minutes; fourth, the powders; fifth, another emetic in six hours if necessary, and continue the powders without interruption while the symptoms are still urgent. Once relief is achieved, these should be stopped, and a dose of senna tea should be given to help with bowel movements.
Diarrhoea.
Diarrhea.
2574. The diarrhoea with which children are so frequently affected, especially in infancy, should demand the nurse's immediate attention, and when the secretion, from its clayey colour, indicates an absence of bile, a powder composed of 3 grains of grey powder and 1 grain of rhubarb, should be given twice, with an interval of four hours between each dose, to a child from one to two years, and, a day or two afterwards, an aperient powder containing the same ingredients and quantities, with the addition of 2 or 3 grains of scammony. For the relaxation consequent on an overloaded stomach, or acidity in the bowels, a little magnesia dissolved in milk should be employed two or three times a day.
2574. The diarrhea that commonly affects children, especially infants, should get the nurse's immediate attention. If the stool is clay-colored, indicating a lack of bile, a powder made up of 3 grains of gray powder and 1 grain of rhubarb should be given twice, with a four-hour gap between doses, to a child between one and two years old. A day or two later, an aperient powder containing the same ingredients and amounts, plus an additional 2 or 3 grains of scammony, should be administered. For the relaxation that results from an overloaded stomach or acidity in the bowels, a little magnesium dissolved in milk should be used two or three times a day.
2575. When much griping and pain attend the diarrhoea, half a teaspoonful of Dalby's Carminative (the best of all patent medicines) should be given, either with or without a small quantity of castor oil to carry off the exciting cause.
2575. When there's a lot of complaining and pain with diarrhea, give half a teaspoon of Dalby's Carminative (the best of all over-the-counter medicines), either with or without a small amount of castor oil to help eliminate the irritating cause.
2576. For any form of diarrhoea that, by excessive action, demands a speedy correction, the most efficacious remedy that can be employed in all ages and conditions of childhood is the tincture of Kino, of which from 10 to 30 drops, mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon, are to be given every two or three hours till the undue action has been checked. Often the change of diet to rice, milk, eggs, or the substitution of animal for vegetable food, or vice versa, will correct an unpleasant and almost chronic state of diarrhoea.
2576. For any kind of diarrhea that requires quick treatment due to excessive activity, the most effective remedy for children of all ages is the tincture of Kino. You should give 10 to 30 drops mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon every two to three hours until the problem is under control. Changing the diet to include rice, milk, eggs, or swapping animal for vegetable food, or vice versa, often helps fix an unpleasant and nearly chronic state of diarrhea.
2577. A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be kept in the house, and employed with advantage, whenever the child is in pain or griped, by dropping 5 grains of oil of aniseed and 2 of peppermint on half an ounce of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, with a drachm of magnesia, into a fine powder. A small quantity of this may be given in a little water at any time, and always with benefit.
2577. A great carminative powder for gassy infants can be kept at home and used whenever the child is experiencing pain or gas. Just mix 5 grains of anise oil and 2 grains of peppermint oil with half an ounce of lump sugar, and grind it into a fine powder with a drachm of magnesia in a mortar. A small amount of this mixture can be given in a little water at any time, and it’s always helpful.
THE DOCTOR.
CHAPTER XLIII.
2578. "Time," according to the old proverb, "is money;" and it may also, in many cases, and with equal truthfulness, be said to be life; for a few moments, in great emergencies, often turn the balance between recovery and death. This applies more especially to all kinds of poisoning, fits, submersion in water, or exposure to noxious gases; and many accidents. If people knew how to act during the interval that must necessarily elapse from the moment that a medical man is sent for until he arrives, many lives might be saved, which now, unhappily, are lost. Generally speaking, however, nothing is done—all is confusion and fright; and the surgeon, on his arrival, finds that death has already seized its victim, who, had his friends but known a few rough rules for their guidance, might have been rescued. We shall, therefore, in a series of papers, give such information as to the means to be employed in event of accidents, injuries, &c., as, by the aid of a gentleman of large professional experience, we are warranted in recommending.
2578. "Time," as the old saying goes, "is money;" and it can also be truthfully said that it represents life in many situations; because in critical moments, a few minutes can make the difference between recovery and death. This is especially true in cases of poisoning, seizures, drowning, exposure to toxic gases, and many accidents. If people understood how to respond during the wait for a doctor to arrive, many lives could be saved that are, unfortunately, lost. Generally, though, nothing happens—there's only chaos and panic; and when the surgeon finally arrives, they find that death has already claimed the victim, who could have been saved if their friends had only known some basic guidelines. Therefore, we will provide a series of articles offering information on what to do in the event of accidents, injuries, etc., with the help of a professional with extensive experience, which we are confident in recommending.
List of Drugs, &c., necessary to carry out all Instructions.
List of Drugs, etc., needed to follow all Instructions.
2579. We append at once A LIST OF DRUGS, &c., and a few PRESCRIPTIONS necessary to carry out all the instructions given in this series of articles. It will be seen that they are few—they are not expensive; and by laying in a little stock of them, our instructions will be of instant value in all cases of accident, &c.—The drugs are—Antimonial Wine. Antimonial Powder. Blister Compound. Blue Pill. Calomel. Carbonate of Potash. Compound Iron Pills. Compound Extract of Colocynth. Compound Tincture of Camphor. Epsom Salts. Goulard's Extract. Jalap in Powder. Linseed Oil. Myrrh and Aloes Pills. Nitre. Oil of Turpentine. Opium, powdered, and Laudanum. Sal Ammoniac. Senna Leaves. Soap Liniment, Opodeldoc. Sweet Spirits of Nitre. Turner's Cerate.—To which should be added: Common Adhesive Plaster. Isinglass Plaster. Lint. A pair of small Scales with Weights. An ounce and a drachm Measure-glass. A Lancet. A Probe. A pair of Forceps, and some curved Needles.
2579. We provide right away A LIST OF DRUGS, etc., and a few PRESCRIPTIONS needed to follow all the instructions in this series of articles. You'll see that they are few—they're not expensive; and by keeping some on hand, our instructions will be immediately useful in all cases of accidents, etc.—The drugs are—Antimonial Wine. Antimonial Powder. Blister Compound. Blue Pill. Calomel. Carbonate of Potash. Compound Iron Pills. Compound Extract of Colocynth. Compound Tincture of Camphor. Epsom Salts. Goulard's Extract. Jalap in Powder. Linseed Oil. Myrrh and Aloes Pills. Nitre. Oil of Turpentine. Opium, powdered, and Laudanum. Sal Ammoniac. Senna Leaves. Soap Liniment, Opodeldoc. Sweet Spirits of Nitre. Turner's Cerate.—Additionally, you should have: Common Adhesive Plaster. Isinglass Plaster. Lint. A pair of small Scales with Weights. An ounce and a drachm Measure-glass. A Lancet. A Probe. A pair of Forceps, and some curved Needles.
2580. The following PRESCRIPTIONS may be made up for a few shillings; and, by keeping them properly labelled, and by referring to the remarks on the treatment of any particular case, much suffering, and, perhaps, some lives, may be saved.
2580. The following PRESCRIPTIONS can be prepared for just a few shillings; and by keeping them properly labeled, and by referring to the notes on the treatment of any specific case, a lot of suffering, and possibly some lives, can be saved.
2581. Draught.—Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water. This draught is to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not take place.
2581. Draught.—Twenty grains of zinc sulfate in an ounce and a half of water. This drink should be repeated in fifteen minutes if vomiting doesn’t occur.
2582. Clyster.—Two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel.
2582. Clyster.—Two tablespoons of turpentine oil in a pint of warm gruel.
2583. Liniments.—1. Equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil well mixed together. [Lime-water is made thus: Pour 6 pints of boiling water upon 1/4 lb. of lime; mix well together, and when cool, strain the liquid from off the lime which has fallen to the bottom, taking care to get it as clear as possible.] 2. Compound camphor liniment.
2583. Liniments.—1. Mix equal parts of lime water and linseed oil thoroughly. [To make lime water: Pour 6 pints of boiling water over 1/4 lb. of lime; mix it well, and once it's cool, strain the liquid from the lime that settled at the bottom, making sure to get it as clear as possible.] 2. Compound camphor liniment.
2584. Lotions.—1. Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water.—2. Mix 1/2 oz. of sal-ammoniac, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of gin or whisky, in half a pint of water.
2584. Lotions.—1. Combine a dessert spoonful of Goulard's extract and 2 tablespoons of vinegar in a pint of water.—2. Combine 1/2 oz. of sal-ammoniac, 2 tablespoons of vinegar, and the same amount of gin or whisky, in half a pint of water.
2585. Goulard Lotion.—1 drachm of sugar of lead, 2 pints of rain-water, 2 teaspoonfuls of spirits of wine. For inflammation of the eyes or elsewhere:—The better way of making Goulard Lotion, if for the eyes, is to add to 6 oz. of distilled water, or water that has been well boiled, 1 drachm of the extract of lead.
2585. Goulard Lotion.—1 drachm of lead acetate, 2 pints of rainwater, 2 teaspoons of grain alcohol. For treating inflammation of the eyes or other areas:—The preferred method for preparing Goulard Lotion for the eyes is to mix 6 oz. of distilled water, or water that has been thoroughly boiled, with 1 drachm of lead extract.
2586. Opodeldoc.—This lotion being a valuable application for sprains, lumbago, weakness of joints, &c., and it being difficult to procure either pure or freshly made, we give a recipe for its preparation. Dissolve 1 oz. of camphor in a pint of rectified spirits of wine; then dissolve 4 oz. of hard white Spanish soap, scraped thin, in 4 oz. of oil of rosemary, and mix them together.
2586. Opodeldoc.—This lotion is a valuable treatment for sprains, lower back pain, joint weakness, etc., and because it's hard to find either pure or freshly made, we provide a recipe for making it. Dissolve 1 oz. of camphor in a pint of rectified alcohol; then dissolve 4 oz. of thinly scraped hard white Spanish soap in 4 oz. of rosemary oil, and mix them together.
2587. The Common Black Draught.—Infusion of senna 10 drachms; Epsom salts 10 drachms; tincture of senna, compound tincture of cardamums, compound spirit of lavender, of each 1 drachm. Families who make black draught in quantity, and wish to preserve it for some time without spoiling, should add about 2 drachms of spirits of hartshorn to each pint of the strained mixture, the use of this drug being to prevent its becoming mouldy or decomposed. A simpler and equally efficacious form of black draught is made by infusing 1/2 oz. of Alexandrian senna, 3 oz. of Epsom salts, and 2 drachms of bruised ginger and coriander-seeds, for several hours in a pint of boiling water, straining the liquor, and adding either 2 drachms of sal-volatile or spirits of hartshorn to the whole, and giving 3 tablespoonfuls for a dose to an adult.
2587. The Common Black Draught.—Steep 10 grams of senna; 10 grams of Epsom salts; 1 gram each of tincture of senna, compound tincture of cardamom, and compound spirit of lavender. Families who prepare black draught in bulk and want to keep it for a while without it going bad should add about 2 grams of spirits of hartshorn to each pint of the strained mixture to prevent it from getting moldy or spoiled. A simpler and equally effective version of black draught can be made by steeping 15 grams of Alexandrian senna, 85 grams of Epsom salts, and 8 grams of crushed ginger and coriander seeds in a pint of boiling water for several hours, straining the liquid, and adding either 8 grams of sal-volatile or spirits of hartshorn to the entire mixture. Administer 3 tablespoons for a dose for an adult.
2588. Mixtures—1. Aperient.—Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose, and repeat it in three or four hours if necessary.
2588. Mixtures—1. Aperient.—Dissolve one ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose, and repeat it in three or four hours if needed.
2589. 2. Fever Mixture.—Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre, in half a pint of water.
2589. 2. Fever Mixture.—Combine 1 teaspoon of powdered nitre, 2 teaspoons of potassium carbonate, 2 teaspoons of antimonial wine, and 1 tablespoon of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water.
2590. 3. Myrrh and Aloes Pills.—Ten grains made into two pills are the dose for a full-grown person.
2590. 3. Myrrh and Aloes Pills.—Ten grains formed into two pills is the dose for an adult.
2591. 4. Compound Iron Pills.—Dose for a full-grown person: 10 grains made into two pills.
2591. 4. Compound Iron Pills.—Dosage for an adult: 10 grains made into two pills.
2592. Pills.—1. Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Dose for a full-grown person: two pills.—2. Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth together, and make into two pills, the dose for a full-grown person.
2592. Pills.—1. Combine 5 grains of calomel and the same amount of antimonial powder with some bread crumbs, and form two pills. Dosage for an adult: two pills.—2. Combine 5 grains of blue pill and the same amount of compound extract of colocynth to make two pills, which is the dosage for an adult.
2593. Powders.—Mix a grain of calomel and 4 grains of powdered jalap together.
2593. Powders.—Combine one grain of calomel with four grains of powdered jalap.
2594. In all cases, the dose of medicines given is to be regulated by the age of the patient.
2594. In all cases, the dose of medications administered should be adjusted based on the patient's age.
2595. Abernethy's Plan for making a Bread-and-Water Poultice.—First scald out a basin; then having put in some boiling water, throw in coarsely-crumbled bread, and cover it with a plate. When the bread has soaked up as much water as it will imbibe, drain off the remaining water, and there will be left a light pulp. Spread it a third of an inch thick on folded linen, and apply it when of the temperature of a warm bath. To preserve it moist, occasionally drop warm water on it.
2595. Abernethy's Plan for Making a Bread-and-Water Poultice.—First, scald a bowl; then add some boiling water and mix in coarsely crumbled bread, covering it with a plate. Once the bread has soaked up as much water as it can, pour off the excess water, leaving a light paste. Spread it about a third of an inch thick on folded linen and apply it when it feels warm, like a hot bath. To keep it moist, occasionally drizzle warm water on it.
2596. Linseed-Meal Poultice.—"Scald your basin, by pouring a little hot water into it; then put a small quantity of finely-ground linseed-meal into the basin, pour a little hot water on it, and stir it round briskly until you have well incorporated them; add a little more meal and a little more water; then stir it again. Do not let any lumps remain in the basin, but stir the poultice well, and do not be sparing of your trouble. What you do next, is to take as much of it out of the basin as you may require, lay it on a piece of soft linen, and let it be about a quarter of an inch thick."—Abernethy.
2596. Linseed-Meal Poultice.—"First, scald your bowl by pouring a bit of hot water into it; then add a small amount of finely ground linseed meal to the bowl, pour in some hot water, and stir it quickly until it's well mixed. Add a bit more meal and more water, then stir it again. Make sure there are no lumps left in the bowl; give the poultice a good mix, and don't hold back on putting in the effort. Next, take out as much of it as you need, place it on a piece of soft cloth, and make sure it's about a quarter of an inch thick."—Abernethy.
2597. Mustard Poultice.—Mix equal parts of dry mustard and linseed-meal in warm vinegar. When the poultice is wanted weak, warm water may be used for the vinegar; and when it is required very strong, mustard alone, without any linseed-meal, is to be mixed with warm vinegar.
2597. Mustard Poultice.—Combine equal amounts of dry mustard and linseed meal in warm vinegar. If a lighter poultice is needed, warm water can be used instead of vinegar; for a stronger poultice, mix only mustard with warm vinegar, without any linseed meal.
2598. An ordinary Blister.—Spread a little blister compound on a piece of common adhesive plaster with the right thumb. It should be put on just thickly enough to conceal the appearance of the plaster beneath. The part from which a blister has been taken should be covered till it heals over with soft linen rags smeared with lard.
2598. An ordinary Blister.—Spread a bit of blister compound on a piece of regular adhesive plaster using your right thumb. It should be applied just thick enough to hide the plaster underneath. The area where the blister was removed should be covered until it heals with soft linen rags coated in lard.
Baths and Fomentations.
Baths and Heat Treatments.
2599. All fluid applications to the body are exhibited either in a hot or cold form; and the object for which they are administered is to produce a stimulating effect over the entire, or a part, of the system; for the effect, though differently obtained, and varying in degree, is the same in principle, whether procured by hot or cold water.
2599. All liquid treatments applied to the body are given either hot or cold; the purpose of these treatments is to create a stimulating effect on the whole body or specific parts of it. The outcome, although achieved in different ways and varying in intensity, is fundamentally the same, whether it comes from hot or cold water.
2600. Heat.—There are three forms in which heat is universally applied to the body,—that of the tepid, warm, and vapour bath; but as the first is too inert to be worth notice, and the last dangerous and inapplicable, except in public institutions, we shall confine our remarks to the really efficacious and always attainable one—the
2600. Heat.—There are three ways heat is commonly applied to the body: the tepid bath, the warm bath, and the steam bath; however, since the first is too mild to be significant, and the last is risky and only suitable for public facilities, we will focus our discussion on the truly effective and always accessible option—the
2601. Warm and Hot Bath.—These baths are used whenever there is congestion, or accumulation of blood in the internal organs, causing pain, difficulty of breathing, or stupor, and are employed, by their stimulating property, to cause a rush of blood to the surface, and, by unloading the great organs, produce a temporary inflammation in the skin, and so equalize the circulation. The effect of the hot bath is to increase the fulness of the pulse, accelerate respiration, and excite perspiration. In all inflammations of the stomach and bowels, the hot bath is of the utmost consequence; the temperature of the warm bath varies from 92° to 100°, and may be obtained by those who have no thermometer to test the exact heat, by mixing one measure of boiling with two of cold water.
2601. Warm and Hot Bath.—These baths are used whenever there is congestion, or buildup of blood in the internal organs, causing pain, trouble breathing, or dizziness. They are utilized for their stimulating property to encourage a rush of blood to the surface and, by relieving pressure on the major organs, create a temporary inflammation in the skin, helping to balance circulation. The hot bath feels like it increases the strength of the pulse, speeds up breathing, and promotes sweating. In cases of inflammation of the stomach and intestines, the hot bath is extremely important; the temperature of the warm bath ranges from 92° to 100°, which can be achieved by mixing one part boiling water with two parts cold water if you don’t have a thermometer to measure the exact heat.
2602. Fomentations are generally used to effect, in a part, the benefit produced on the whole body by the bath; to which a sedative action is occasionally given by the use of roots, herbs, or other ingredients; the object being to relieve the internal organ, as the throat, or muscles round a joint, by exciting a greater flow of blood to the skin over the affected part. As the real agent of relief is heat, the fomentation should always be as hot as it can comfortably be borne, and, to insure effect, should be repeated every half-hour. Warm fluids are applied in order to render the swelling which accompanies inflammation less painful, by the greater readiness with which the skin yields, than when it is harsh and dry. They are of various kinds; but the most simple, and oftentimes the most useful, that can be employed, is "Warm Water." Another kind of fomentation is composed of dried poppyheads, 4 oz. Break them to pieces, empty out the seeds, put them into 4 pints of water, boil for a quarter of an hour, then strain through a cloth or sieve, and keep the water for use. Or, chamomile flowers, hemlock, and many other plants, may be boiled, and the part fomented with the hot liquor, by means of flannels wetted with the decoction.
2602. Fomentations are usually used to create the same benefits for a specific area of the body as those experienced from a bath; sometimes, this is enhanced with soothing ingredients like roots, herbs, or other substances to help relieve internal issues, such as in the throat or the muscles around a joint, by increasing blood flow to the skin over the affected area. Since heat is the main factor in providing relief, the fomentation should always be as hot as is comfortably tolerable and should be repeated every half-hour for best results. Warm fluids are applied to help reduce the pain of swelling associated with inflammation, as the skin is more pliable when warm and moist compared to when it is rough and dry. There are various types, but the simplest and often most effective one to use is "Warm Water." Another type of fomentation can be made from dried poppy heads, 4 oz. Break them into pieces, remove the seeds, place them in 4 pints of water, boil for 15 minutes, then strain through cloth or a sieve, and set the water aside for use. Alternatively, chamomile flowers, hemlock, and several other plants can be boiled, and the area can be fomented with the hot liquid using flannels soaked in the decoction.
2603. Cold, when applied in excess to the body, drives the blood from the surface to the centre, reduces the pulse, makes the breathing hard and difficult, produces coma, and, if long continued, death. But when medicinally used, it excites a reaction on the surface equivalent to a stimulating effect; as in some cases of fever, when the body has been sponged with cold water, it excites, by reaction, increased circulation on the skin. Cold is sometimes used to keep up a repellent action, as, when local inflammation takes place, a remedy is applied, which, by its benumbing and astringent effect, causes the blood, or the excess of it in the part, to recede, and, by contracting the vessels, prevents the return of any undue quantity, till the affected part recovers its tone. Such remedies are called Lotions, and should, when used, be applied with the same persistency as the fomentation; for, as the latter should be renewed as often as the heat passes off, so the former should be applied as often as the heat from the skin deprives the application of its cold.
2603. Cold, when applied excessively to the body, pulls blood from the surface to the center, slows the pulse, makes breathing hard and difficult, leads to coma, and, if prolonged, can result in death. However, when used medicinally, it triggers a reaction on the surface that acts like a stimulant; for example, in some cases of fever, when the body is sponged with cold water, it prompts increased circulation in the skin through this reaction. Cold is also sometimes used to maintain a repellent effect; for instance, when there is local inflammation, a remedy is applied that numbs and constricts, causing blood—especially excess blood in the area—to retreat, and by narrowing the blood vessels, it prevents any excess from returning until the affected area regains its strength. These remedies are called Lotions, and when used, they should be applied with the same persistence as fomentations; just as the latter should be refreshed as soon as the heat dissipates, the former should be reapplied as often as the heat from the skin diminishes its cold effect.
2604. Poultices are only another form of fomentation, though chiefly used for abscesses. The ingredient best suited for a poultice is that which retains heat the longest; of these ingredients, the best are linseed—meal, bran, and bread. Bran sewed into a bag, as it can be reheated, will be found the cleanest and most useful; especially for sore throats.
2604. Poultices are just another type of warm compress, mainly used for abscesses. The best ingredient for a poultice is one that holds heat the longest; among these, the best options are linseed, meal, bran, and bread. Bran packed into a bag, since it can be reheated, is the cleanest and most practical choice, especially for sore throats.
How to Bleed.
How to Bleed.
2605. In cases of great emergency, such as the strong kind of apoplexy, and when a surgeon cannot possibly be obtained for some considerable time, the life of the patient depends almost entirely upon the fact of his being bled or not. We therefore give instructions how the operation of bleeding is to be performed, but caution the reader only to attempt it in cases of the greatest emergency. Place a handkerchief or piece of tape rather but not too tightly round the arm, about three or four inches above the elbow. This will cause the veins below to swell and become very evident. If this is not sufficient, the hand should be constantly and quickly opened and shut for the same purpose. There will now be seen, passing up the middle of the fore-arm, a vein which, just below the bend of the elbow, sends a branch inwards and outwards, each branch shortly joining another large vein. It is from the outer branch—that the person is to be bled. The right arm is the one mostly operated on. The operator should take the lancet in his right hand, between the thumb and first finger, place the thumb of his left hand on the vein below the part where he is going to bleed from, and then gently thrust the tip of the lancet into the vein, and, taking care not to push it too deeply, cut in a gently curved direction, thus and bring it out, point upwards, at about half an inch from the part of the vein into which he had thrust it. The vein must be cut lengthways, and not across. When sufficient blood has been taken away, remove the bandage from above the elbow, and place the thumb of the left hand firmly over the cut, until all the bleeding ceases. A small pad of lint is then to be put over the cut, with a larger pad over it, and the two kept in their places by means of a handkerchief or linen roller bound pretty tightly over them and round the arm.
2605. In serious emergencies, like a severe stroke, when a surgeon isn't available for a while, the patient's life relies heavily on whether or not they get bled. Therefore, we provide instructions on how to bleed someone but urge the reader to only attempt it in extreme emergencies. Wrap a handkerchief or tape snugly, but not too tightly, around the arm about three or four inches above the elbow. This will cause the veins below to swell and become prominent. If that doesn't work, repeatedly open and close the hand quickly to help. You should see a vein running up the middle of the forearm, which, just below the bend of the elbow, branches inward and outward, each connecting to another large vein. You will draw blood from the outer branch. Most often, the right arm is used. The person doing the procedure should hold the lancet in their right hand, between the thumb and index finger, place the left thumb on the vein just below where they plan to make the cut, and then gently push the tip of the lancet into the vein. Be careful not to insert it too deeply. Cut gently in a curved direction and pull it out, with the point facing upwards, about half an inch from where it was inserted. The vein should be sliced lengthwise, not across. After enough blood has been drawn, remove the bandage from above the elbow and press the left thumb firmly over the cut until the bleeding stops. Place a small pad of lint over the cut, with a larger pad on top of it, and secure both with a handkerchief or a linen roller wrapped relatively tightly around the arm.
2606. When a person is bled, he should always be in the standing, or at any rate in the sitting, position; for if, as is often the case, he should happen to faint, he can, in, most eases at least, easily be brought to again by the operator placing him flat on his back, and stopping the bleeding. This is of the greatest importance. It has been recommended, for what supposed advantages we don't know, to bleed people when they are lying down. Should a person, under these circumstances, faint, what could be done to bring him to again? The great treatment of lowering the body of the patient to the flat position cannot be followed here. It is in that position already, and cannot be placed lower than it at present is—except, as is most likely to be the case, under the ground.
2606. When a person gets bled, they should always be standing or at least sitting. If they happen to faint, which happens often, it's easier for the operator to bring them back by laying them flat on their back and stopping the bleeding. This is really important. It's been suggested, for reasons we don't fully understand, to bleed people while they’re lying down. If someone faints in this position, what can be done to revive them? The main treatment of laying the patient flat doesn't apply here because they’re already in that position and can’t be lowered any further—except, most likely, underground.
2607. BLEEDING FROM THE NOSE.—Many children, especially those of a sanguineous temperament, are subject to sudden discharges of blood from some part of the body; and as all such fluxes are in general the result of an effort of nature to relieve the system from some overload or pressure, such discharges, unless in excess, and when likely to produce debility, should not be rashly or too abruptly checked. In general, these discharges are confined to the summer or spring months of the year, and follow pains in the head, a sense of drowsiness, languor, or oppression; and, as such symptoms are relieved by the loss of blood, the hemorrhage should, to a certain extent, be encouraged. When, however, the bleeding is excessive, or returns too frequently, it becomes necessary to apply means to subdue or mitigate the amount. For this purpose the sudden and unexpected application of cold is itself sufficient, in most cases, to arrest the most active hemorrhage. A wet towel laid suddenly on the back, between the shoulders, and placing the child in a recumbent posture, is often sufficient to effect the object; where, however, the effusion resists such simple means, napkins wrung out of cold water must be laid across the forehead and nose, the hands dipped in cold water, and a bottle of hot water applied to the feet. If, in spite of these means, the bleeding continues, a little fine wool or a few folds of lint, tied together by a piece of thread, must be pushed up the nostril from which the blood flows, to act as a plug and pressure on the bleeding vessel. When the discharge has entirely ceased, the plug is to be pulled out by means of the thread. To prevent a repetition of the hemorrhage, the body should be sponged every morning with cold water, and the child put under a course of steel wine, have open-air exercise, and, if possible, salt-water bathing. For children, a key suddenly dropped down the back between the skin and clothes, will often immediately arrest a copious bleeding.
2607. NOSEBLEEDS.—Many children, especially those with a lively temperament, can experience sudden nosebleeds or bleeding from other parts of the body. These bleeding episodes are often the body's way of relieving some kind of overload or pressure, so as long as they're not excessive and likely to cause weakness, they shouldn't be stopped too abruptly. Generally, these incidents occur during the spring or summer months and often follow headaches, feelings of tiredness, lethargy, or pressure. Since such symptoms can improve with blood loss, it can be beneficial to let some bleeding continue. However, if the bleeding is severe or happens too often, it's important to take steps to reduce it. In most cases, a sudden application of cold can stop an active nosebleed. A wet towel placed quickly on the back between the shoulders, along with having the child lie down, can be effective. If this doesn't work, cold, damp cloths can be put on the forehead and nose, and the child's hands can be dipped in cold water while a hot water bottle is placed at their feet. If the bleeding persists despite these measures, a small piece of fine wool or a few layers of lint, tied together with thread, should be inserted into the nostril to act as a plug and apply pressure to the bleeding vessel. Once the bleeding has completely stopped, the plug can be removed using the thread. To prevent future nosebleeds, the child’s body should be sponged with cold water every morning, and they should be given a course of iron-rich drinks, encouraged to exercise outdoors, and, if possible, enjoy saltwater baths. For children, dropping a key suddenly between the skin and clothes can often stop significant bleeding right away.
2608. SPITTING OF BLOOD, or hemorrhage from the lungs, is generally known from blood from the stomach by its being of a brighter colour, and in less quantities than that, which is always grumous and mixed with the half-digested food. In either case, rest should be immediately enjoined, total abstinence from stimulants, and a low, poor diet, accompanied with the horizontal position, and bottles of boiling water to the feet. At the same time the patient should suck through a quill, every hour, half a wine-glass of water in which 10 or 15 drops of the elixir of vitriol has been mixed, and, till further advice has been procured, keep a towel wrung out of cold water on the chest or stomach, according to the seat of the hemorrhage.
2608. Spitting up blood, or bleeding from the lungs, is usually distinguished from blood coming from the stomach by its brighter color and smaller amounts, while gastric blood is always dark and mixed with partially digested food. In either case, the patient should immediately rest, avoid stimulants, follow a low, bland diet, and lie down. It's also recommended to place hot water bottles on the feet. Additionally, the patient should sip half a wine-glass of water mixed with 10 or 15 drops of sulfuric acid elixir through a straw every hour. Until further advice is given, they should keep a towel soaked in cold water on their chest or stomach, depending on where the bleeding is.
Bites and Stings.
Bites and Stings.
2609. BITES AND STINGS may be divided into three kinds:—1. Those of Insects. 2. Those of Snakes. 3. Those of Dogs and other Animals.
2609. BITES AND STINGS can be divided into three types:—1. Insect Bites. 2. Snake Bites. 3. Bites from Dogs and other Animals.
2610. 1. The Bites or Stings of Insects, such as gnats, bees, wasps, &c., need cause very little alarm, and are, generally speaking, easily cured. They are very serious, however, when they take place on some delicate part of the body, such as near the eye, or in the throat. The treatment is very simple in most cases; and consists in taking out the sting, if it is left behind, with a needle, and applying to the part a liniment made of finely-scraped chalk and olive-oil, mixed together to about the thickness of cream.
2610. 1. The Bites or Stings of Insects, like gnats, bees, wasps, etc., typically shouldn’t be a big concern and are usually easy to treat. However, they can be quite serious if they occur on sensitive areas of the body, such as near the eye or in the throat. The treatment is quite straightforward in most cases; it involves removing the sting with a needle if it’s still there and applying a liniment made of finely grated chalk and olive oil, mixed to the consistency of cream.
2611. Bathing the part bitten with warm turpentine or warm vinegar is also of great use. If the person feels faint, he should lie quietly on his back, and take a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water. When the inside of the throat is the part stung, there is great danger of violent inflammation taking place. In this case, from eight to twelve leeches should be immediately put to the outside of the throat, and when they drop off, the part to which they had been applied should be well fomented with warm water. The inside of the throat is to be constantly gargled with salt and water. Bits of ice are to be sucked. Rubbing the face and hands well over with plain olive-oil, before going to bed, will often keep gnats and musquitoes from biting during the night. Strong scent, such as eau-de-Cologne, will have the same effect.
2611. Bathing the bitten area with warm turpentine or warm vinegar is very helpful. If the person feels lightheaded, they should lie flat on their back and drink a little brandy and water or some sal volatile mixed with water. If the inside of the throat is stung, there is a significant risk of severe inflammation occurring. In this situation, eight to twelve leeches should be immediately applied to the outside of the throat, and once they fall off, the area should be thoroughly soaked with warm water. The inside of the throat should be regularly gargled with salt water. Ice chips should be sucked on. Rubbing the face and hands with plain olive oil before going to bed can often prevent gnats and mosquitoes from biting at night. A strong scent, like eau de Cologne, can have the same effect.
2612. 2. Bites of Snakes.—These are much more dangerous than the preceding, and require more powerful remedies. The bites of the different kinds of snakes do not all act alike, but affect people in different ways.—Treatment of the part bitten. The great thing is to prevent the poison getting into the blood; and, if possible, to remove the whole of it at once from the body. A pocket-handkerchief, a piece of tape or cord, or, in fact, of anything that is at hand, should be tied tightly round the part of the body bitten; if it be the leg or arm, immediately above the bite, and between it and the heart. The bite should then be sucked several times by any one who is near. There is no danger in this, provided the person who does it has not got the skin taken off any part of his mouth. What has been sucked into the mouth should be immediately spit out again. But if those who are near have sufficient nerve for the operation, and a suitable instrument, they should cut out the central part bitten, and then bathe the wound for some time with warm water, to make it bleed freely. The wound should afterwards be rubbed with a stick of lunar caustic, or, what is better, a solution of this—60 grains of lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce of water—should be dropped into it. The band should be kept on the part during the whole of the time that these means are being adopted. The wound should afterwards be covered with lint dipped in cold water. The best plan, however, to be adopted, if it can be managed, is the following:—take a common wine-glass, and, holding it upside down, put a lighted candle or a spirit-lamp into it for a minute or two. This will take out the air. Then clap the glass suddenly over the bitten part, and it will become attached, and hold on to the flesh. The glass being nearly empty, the blood containing the poison will, in consequence, flow into it from the wound of its own accord. This process should be repeated three or four times, and the wound sucked, or washed with warm water, before each application of the glass. As a matter of course, when the glass is removed, all the blood should be washed out of it before it is applied again.—Constitutional Treatment. There is mostly at first great depression of strength in these cases, and it is therefore requisite to give some stimulant; a glass of hot brandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal-volatile, is the best that can be given. When the strength has returned, and if the patient has not already been sick, a little mustard in hot water should be given, to make him so. If, on the other hand, as is often the case, the vomiting is excessive, a large mustard poultice should be placed over the stomach, and a grain of solid opium swallowed in the form of a pill, for the purpose of stopping it. Only one of these pills should be given by a non-professional person. In all cases of bites from snakes, send for a surgeon as quickly as possible, and act according to the above directions until he arrives. If he is within any reasonable distance, content yourself by putting on the band, sucking the wound, applying the glass, and, if necessary, giving a little brandy-and-water.
2612. 2. Bites of Snakes.—These are much more dangerous than the previous ones and require stronger treatments. The effects of snake bites can vary depending on the type of snake, affecting people in different ways.—Treatment of the part bitten. The main goal is to prevent the poison from entering the bloodstream and, if possible, to remove it entirely from the body. A pocket handkerchief, some tape or cord, or really anything available should be tied tightly around the area of the bite; if it's on a leg or arm, it should be secured immediately above the bite, between the bite and the heart. The bite should then be sucked several times by someone nearby. There's no danger in this, as long as the person doing it doesn't have any open sores in their mouth. What’s been sucked into the mouth should be spit out immediately. However, if those nearby are brave enough and have a suitable tool, they should cut out the bitten area and then wash the wound with warm water for a while to encourage bleeding. The wound should then be treated with a stick of lunar caustic or, preferably, a solution made of 60 grains of lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce of water should be dripped into it. The band should stay on the bite throughout this process. Afterward, the wound should be covered with lint soaked in cold water. The best method, if it can be done, is as follows: take a common wine glass, hold it upside down, and put a lit candle or spirit lamp inside it for a minute or two to remove the air. Then quickly place the glass over the bitten area, and it will stick to the skin. Since the glass is nearly empty, the blood with the poison will flow into it from the wound on its own. This should be repeated three or four times, and the wound should be sucked or rinsed with warm water before each glass application. Naturally, when removing the glass, all blood should be cleaned out before using it again.—Constitutional Treatment. Initially, there is often a significant drop in strength in these cases, so some stimulant is needed; a glass of hot brandy-and-water or twenty drops of sal-volatile is the best option. Once strength returns, and if the patient hasn't already vomited, a little mustard in hot water should be given to induce vomiting. Conversely, if there is excessive vomiting, a large mustard poultice should be placed on the stomach, and a grain of solid opium should be swallowed in pill form to help stop it. Only one of these pills should be given by someone who's not a professional. In all cases of snake bites, call a surgeon as quickly as possible and follow the above instructions until they arrive. If the surgeon is within a reasonable distance, simply apply the band, suck the wound, use the glass, and if needed, give a little brandy-and-water.
2613. 3. Bites of Dogs.—For obvious reasons, these kinds of bites are more frequently met with than those of snakes. The treatment is the same as that for snake-bites, more especially that of the bitten part. The majority of writers on the subject are in favour of keeping the wound open as long as possible. This may be done by putting a few beans on it, and then by applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them.
2613. 3. Bites of Dogs.—For obvious reasons, these types of bites happen more often than snake bites. The treatment is the same as for snake bites, especially for the affected area. Most writers on the topic prefer keeping the wound open for as long as possible. This can be done by placing a few beans on it and then applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them.
Injuries and Accidents to Bones.
Bone Injuries and Accidents.
2614. Dislocation of Bones.—When the end of a bone is pushed out of its natural position, it is said to be dislocated. This may be caused by violence, disease, or natural weakness of the parts about a joint.—Symptoms. Deformity about the joint, with unnatural prominence at one part, and depression at another. The limb may be shorter or longer than usual, and is stiff and unable to be moved, differing in these last two respects from a broken limb, which is mostly shorter, never longer, than usual, and which is always more movable.—Treatment. So much practical science and tact are requisite in order to bring a dislocated bone into its proper position again, that we strongly advise the reader never to interfere in these cases; unless, indeed, it is altogether impossible to obtain the services of a surgeon. But because any one of us may very possibly be placed in that emergency, we give a few rough rules for the reader's guidance. In the first place make the joint, from which the bone has been displaced, perfectly steady, either by fixing it to some firm object or else by holding it with the hands; then pull the dislocated bone in a direction towards the place from which it has been thrust, so that, if it moves at all from its unnatural position, it may have the best chance of returning to its proper place. Do not, however, pull or press against the parts too violently, as you may, perhaps, by doing so, rupture blood-vessels, and produce most serious consequences. When you do attempt to reduce a dislocated bone, do it as quickly as possible after the accident has taken place, every hour making the operation more difficult. When the patient is very strong, he may be put into a warm bath until he feels faint, or have sixty drops of antimonial wine given him every ten minutes until he feels sickish. These two means are of great use in relaxing the muscles. If the bone has been brought back again to its proper place, keep it there by means of bandages; and if there is much pain about the joint, apply a cold lotion to it, and keep it perfectly at rest. The lotion should be, a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, mixed in a pint of water. Leeches are sometimes necessary. Unless the local pain, or general feverish symptoms, are great, the patient's diet should be the same as usual. Dislocations may be reduced a week, or even a fortnight, after they have taken place. As, therefore, although the sooner a bone is reduced the better, there is no very great emergency, and as the most serious consequences may follow improper or too violent treatment, it is always better for people in these cases to do too little than too much; inasmuch as the good which has not yet may still be done, whereas the evil that has been done cannot so easily be undone.
2614. Dislocation of Bones.—When the end of a bone is pushed out of its natural position, it's called a dislocation. This can happen due to injury, illness, or natural weakness around a joint.—Symptoms. There will be a deformity around the joint, with an unnatural bulge in one area and a dip in another. The limb may feel shorter or longer than usual and will be stiff and unable to move, which is different from a broken limb, which is usually shorter and always more movable.—Treatment. It takes a lot of practical knowledge and skill to properly put a dislocated bone back in place, so we strongly recommend that you don’t attempt this unless it’s impossible to get a surgeon. However, in case you find yourself in that situation, here are a few basic guidelines. First, make sure the joint where the bone has come out is completely still, either by securing it to a firm object or holding it with your hands; then gently pull the dislocated bone towards the position it was displaced from, giving it the best chance to return to its correct spot. But don’t pull or push too hard, as you might rupture blood vessels and cause serious issues. When you do try to fix a dislocated bone, do it as soon as possible after the injury happens—every hour makes the procedure more complicated. If the patient is strong, you can place them in a warm bath until they feel faint, or give them sixty drops of antimonial wine every ten minutes until they feel nauseous. These methods help relax the muscles. If the bone has been successfully repositioned, hold it there with bandages; if there's a lot of pain around the joint, apply a cold compress and keep it completely still. The lotion should consist of a dessert spoonful of Goulard's extract and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar mixed in a pint of water. Leeches may sometimes be necessary. Unless there's significant local pain or general fever, the patient's diet should remain normal. Dislocations can often be treated a week or even two weeks after they occur. Therefore, while it's better to reduce a dislocated bone sooner rather than later, there’s no urgent need to act quickly; improper or overly forceful treatment can lead to serious consequences, so it’s always wiser to err on the side of caution in these cases. It’s easier to fix what hasn’t been done yet rather than undo what has already caused harm.
2615. FRACTURES OF BONES.—Symptoms. 1. Deformity of the part. 2. Unnatural looseness. 3. A grating sound when the two ends of the broken bone are rubbed together. 4. Loss of natural motion and power. In some cases there is also shortening of the limb.—Fracture takes place from several causes, as a fall, a blow, a squeeze, and sometimes from the violent action of muscles.—Treatment. In cases where a surgeon cannot be procured immediately after the accident, the following general rules are offered for the reader's guidance:—The broken limb should be placed and kept as nearly as possible in its natural position. This is to be done by first pulling the two portions of the bone in opposite directions, until the limb becomes as long as the opposite one, and then by applying a splint, and binding it to the part by means of a roller. When there is no deformity, the pulling is of course unnecessary. If there is much swelling about the broken part, a cold lotion is to be applied. This lotion (which we will call Lotion No. 1) may be thus made:—Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. When the leg or arm is broken, always, if possible, get it to the same length and form as the opposite limb. The broken part should be kept perfectly quiet. When a broken limb is deformed, and a particular muscle is on the stretch, place the limb in such a position as will relax it. This will in most cases cure the deformity. Brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, are to be given when the patient is faint. Surgical aid should, of course, be procured as soon as possible.
2615. FRACTURES OF BONES.—Symptoms. 1. Deformity of the affected area. 2. Unnatural looseness. 3. A grating sound when the ends of the broken bone rub against each other. 4. Loss of normal movement and strength. In some cases, there may also be shortening of the limb.—Fractures occur due to several reasons, like a fall, a blow, a squeeze, and sometimes from the intense action of muscles.—Treatment. If a surgeon isn’t available immediately after the injury, here are some general guidelines for you to follow:—The broken limb should be positioned and kept as close to its natural position as possible. Start by pulling the two ends of the bone in opposite directions until the limb matches the length of the uninjured one, then apply a splint and secure it with a roller bandage. If there’s no deformity, pulling isn’t necessary. If there’s significant swelling around the injury, apply a cold lotion. This lotion (which we’ll call Lotion No. 1) can be made by mixing a dessert-spoonful of Goulard's extract and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. When a leg or arm is broken, always try to adjust it to match the length and shape of the uninjured limb. The broken area should be kept completely still. If the broken limb is deformed and a specific muscle is tensed, position the limb in a way that will relax the muscle. This usually helps fix the deformity. Give brandy-and-water or sal-volatile and water if the patient feels faint. Surgical help should be sought as soon as possible.
2616. JOINTS, INJURIES TO.—All kinds of injuries to joints, of whatever description, require particular attention, in consequence of the violent inflammations which are so liable to take place in these parts of the body, and which do so much mischief in a little time. The joint injured should always be kept perfectly at rest; and when it is very painful, and the skin about it red, swollen, hot, and shining, at the same time that the patient has general feverish symptoms, such as great thirst and headache—leeches, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations, are to be applied; the No. 1 pills above-mentioned are to be given (two are a dose for a grown person) with a black draught three hours afterwards. Give also two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture every four hours, and keep the patient on low diet. When the injury and swelling are not very great, warm applications, with rest, low diet, and a dose of aperient medicine, will be sufficient. When a joint has received a penetrating wound, it will require the most powerful treatment, and can only be properly attended to by a surgeon. The patient's friends will have to use their own judgment to a great extent in these and in many other cases, as to when leeches, fever-mixture, &c., are necessary. A universal rule, however, without a single exception, is always to rest a joint well after it has been injured in any way whatever, to purge the patient, and to keep him on low diet, without beer, unless he has been a very great drinker indeed, in which case he may still be allowed to take a little; for if the stimulant that a person has been accustomed to in excess be all taken away at once, he is very likely to have an attack of delirium tremens. The quantity given should not, however, be much—say a pint, or, at the most, a pint and a half a day. Rubbing the joint with opodeldoc, or the application of a blister to it, is of great service in taking away the thickenings, which often remain after all heat, pain, and redness have left an injured joint. Great care should be observed in not using a joint too quickly after it has been injured. When the shoulder-joint is the one injured, the arm should be bound tightly to the body by means of a linen or flannel roller, and the elbow raised; when the elbow, it should be kept raised in the straight position, on a pillow; when the wrist, it should be raised on the chest, and suspended in a sling; when the knee, it should be kept in the straight position; and, lastly, when the ankle, it should be a little raised on a pillow.
2616. JOINTS, INJURIES TO.—All types of injuries to joints, regardless of their nature, require special attention due to the severe inflammation that can easily occur in these areas of the body, which can cause significant damage in a short time. The injured joint should always be completely rested; if it is very painful, and the skin around it is red, swollen, hot, and shiny, along with the patient experiencing general fever symptoms like extreme thirst and headache—leeches should be applied, and after they fall off, warm poppy fomentations should be used; the No. 1 pills mentioned above should be given (two pills for an adult) followed by a black draught three hours later. Also, give two tablespoons of the fever mixture every four hours, and keep the patient on a low diet. If the injury and swelling are not severe, warm applications, rest, a low diet, and a dose of laxative medicine will suffice. When a joint has a penetrating wound, it requires intensive treatment, which can only be properly managed by a surgeon. The patient's family must use their judgment in these and many other situations regarding when to apply leeches, fever mixtures, etc. However, a universal rule, without exception, is always to rest a joint well after any injury, to give the patient a laxative, and to keep them on a low diet, avoiding beer, unless they are a very heavy drinker, in which case they may be allowed a small amount; if someone who is accustomed to excessive stimulants suddenly stops completely, they are likely to suffer from delirium tremens. The amount given should, however, be limited—around a pint, or at most, a pint and a half a day. Rubbing the joint with opodeldoc, or applying a blister to it, can be very helpful in reducing the thickening that often remains after all heat, pain, and redness have resolved in an injured joint. Great care must be taken not to use a joint too soon after an injury. If the shoulder joint is injured, the arm should be tightly bound to the body using a linen or flannel roller, and the elbow should be raised; if the elbow is injured, it should be kept straight and elevated on a pillow; if the wrist is involved, it should also be raised on the chest and supported in a sling; if the knee is injured, it should be kept straight; and lastly, if the ankle is affected, it should be slightly raised on a pillow.
2617. BRUISES, LACERATIONS, AND CUTS.—Wherever the bruise may be, or however swollen or discoloured the skin may become, two or three applications of the extract of lead, kept to the part by means of lint, will, in an hour or little more, remove all pain, swelling, and tenderness. Simple or clean cuts only require the edges of the wound to be placed in their exact situation, drawn close together, and secured there by one or two slips of adhesive plaster. When the wound, however, is jagged, or the flesh or cuticle lacerated, the parts are to be laid as smooth and regular as possible, and a piece of lint, wetted in the extract of lead, laid upon the wound, and a piece of greased lint placed above it to prevent the dressing sticking; the whole covered over to protect from injury, and the part dressed in the same manner once a day till the cure is effected.
2617. BRUISES, LACERATIONS, AND CUTS.—No matter where the bruise is or how swollen or discolored the skin becomes, applying the extract of lead two or three times, held in place with lint, will relieve all pain, swelling, and tenderness in about an hour or so. Simple or clean cuts only need the edges of the wound to be brought back together and held in place with one or two pieces of adhesive plaster. However, if the wound is jagged or the flesh or skin is torn, the parts should be arranged as smoothly and evenly as possible, then a piece of lint soaked in the extract of lead should be placed on the wound, with a piece of greased lint on top to prevent the dressing from sticking; everything should be covered to protect it from damage, and the area should be dressed in the same way once a day until it heals.
2618. BRUISES AND THEIR TREATMENT.—The best application for a bruise, be it large or small, is moist warmth; therefore, a warm bread-and-water poultice in hot moist flannels should be put on, as they supple the skin. If the bruise be very severe, and in the neighbourhood of a joint, it will be well to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the whole bruised part, and afterwards a poultice. But leeches should not be put on young children. If the bruised part be the knee or the ankle, walking should not be attempted till it can be performed without pain. Inattention to this point often lays the foundation for serious mischief in these joints, especially in the case of scrofulous persons. In all conditions of bruises occurring in children, whether swellings or abrasions, no remedy is so quick or certain of effecting a cure as the pure extract of lead applied to the part.
2618. BRUISES AND THEIR TREATMENT.—The best way to treat a bruise, whether it's big or small, is with moist heat; therefore, a warm bread-and-water poultice wrapped in hot, damp cloths should be applied, as it helps soften the skin. If the bruise is very severe and near a joint, it's advisable to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the entire bruised area, followed by a poultice. However, leeches should not be used on young children. If the bruised area is the knee or ankle, walking should not be attempted until it can be done without pain. Ignoring this can often lead to serious problems in these joints, especially in individuals with scrofula. For any type of bruise in children, whether it's swelling or abrasions, nothing works as quickly or effectively as applying pure lead extract to the area.
Burns and Scalds.
Burns and scalds.
2619. BURNS AND SCALDS being essentially the same in all particulars, and differing only in the manner of their production, may be spoken of together. As a general rule, scalds are less severe than burns, because the heat of water, by which scalds are mostly produced, is not, even when it is boiling, so intense as that of flame; oil, however, and other liquids, whose boiling-point is high, produce scalds of a very severe nature. Burns and scalds have been divided into three classes. The first class comprises those where the burn is altogether superficial, and merely reddens the skin; the second, where the injury is greater, and we get little bladders containing a fluid (called serum) dotted over the affected part; in the third class we get, in the case of burns, a charring, and in that of scalds, a softening or pulpiness, perhaps a complete and immediate separation of the part. This may occur at once, or in the course of a little time. The pain from the second kind of burns is much more severe than that in the other two, although the danger, as a general rule, is less than it is in the third class. These injuries are much more dangerous when they take place on the trunk than when they happen on the arms or legs. The danger arises more from the extent of surface that is burnt than from the depth to which the burn goes. This rule, of course, has certain exceptions; because a small burn on the chest or belly penetrating deeply is more dangerous than a more extensive but superficial one on the arm or leg. When a person's clothes are in flames, the best way of extinguishing them is to wind a rug, or some thick material, tightly round the whole of the body.
2619. BURNS AND SCALDS are essentially the same in every way, differing only in how they occur, so they can be discussed together. Generally, scalds are less severe than burns because the heat from water, which mainly causes scalds, isn't as intense as flame, even if it's boiling. However, oil and other liquids with high boiling points can cause very severe scalds. Burns and scalds are divided into three categories. The first category includes those that are completely superficial and just cause redness in the skin. The second category involves more injury, where small blisters filled with fluid (called serum) appear on the affected area. The third category features burns that can lead to charring, while scalds may cause softening or a pulpy texture, possibly even complete and immediate detachment of the affected area. This can happen right away or over some time. The pain from the second type of burns is much more intense than in the other two, although generally, the risk is lower than with the third category. These injuries are much more dangerous when they occur on the trunk than when they happen on the arms or legs. The risk comes more from how much skin is burned than from how deep the burn goes. There are exceptions to this rule; for example, a small but deep burn on the chest or abdomen is more dangerous than a larger but superficial burn on the arm or leg. If a person's clothes catch fire, the best way to put them out is to tightly wrap a rug or some thick material around their entire body.
2620. Treatment of the First Class of Burns and Scalds.—Of the part affected.—Cover it immediately with a good coating of common flour, or cotton-wool with flour dredged well into it. The great thing is to keep the affected surface of the skin from the contact of the air. The part will shortly get well, and the skin may or may not peel off.—Constitutional Treatment. If the burn or scald is not extensive, and there is no prostration of strength, this is very simple, and consists in simply giving a little aperient medicine—pills (No. 2), as follows:—Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth, and make into two pills—the dose for a full-grown person. Three hours after the pills give a black draught. If there are general symptoms of fever, such as hot skin, thirst, headache, &c. &c., two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture are to be given every four hours. The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is made thus:-Mix a drachm of powdered nitro, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitro, in half a pint of water.
2620. Treatment of the First Class of Burns and Scalds.—Of the part affected.—Cover it right away with a thick layer of regular flour, or cotton wool that's well dusted with flour. The important thing is to keep the affected area of the skin away from the air. It will heal quickly, and the skin may or may not peel off.—Constitutional Treatment. If the burn or scald isn't widespread, and there's no significant weakness, this treatment is straightforward. It just involves giving a mild laxative—pills (No. 2), as follows:—Mix 5 grains of blue pill with the same amount of compound extract of colocynth, and form two pills—this is the dose for an adult. After three hours, give a black draught. If there are general signs of fever, like hot skin, thirst, headache, etc., give two tablespoonfuls of fever mixture every four hours. To prepare the fever mixture, mix a drachm of powdered nitro, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitro, in half a pint of water.
2621. Second Class. Local Treatment.—As the symptoms of these kinds of burns are more severe than those of the first class, so the remedies appropriate to them are more powerful. Having, as carefully as possible, removed the clothes from the burnt surface, and taking care not to break the bladders, spread the following liniment (No. 1) on a piece of linen or lint—not the fluffy side—and apply it to the part: the liniment should be equal parts of lime-water and linseed-oil, well mixed. If the burn is on the trunk of the body, it is better to use a warm linseed-meal poultice. After a few days dress the wound with Turner's cerate. If the burn is at the bend of the elbow, place the arm in the straight position; for if it is bent, the skin, when healed, will be contracted, and the arm, in all probability, always remain in the same un natural position. This, indeed, applies to all parts of the body; therefore, always place the part affected in the most stretched position possible.—Constitutional Treatment. The same kind of treatment is to be used as for the first class, only it must be more powerful. Stimulants are move often necessary, but must be given with great caution. If, as is often the case, there is great irritability and restlessness, a dose of opium (paregoric, in doses of from sixty to a hundred drops, according to age, is best) is of great service. The feverish symptoms will require aperient medicines and the fever mixture. A drink made of about a tablespoonful of cream of tartar and a little lemon-juice, in a quart of warm water, allowed to cool, is a very nice one in these cases. The diet throughout should not be too low, especially if there is much discharge from the wound. After a few days it is often necessary to give wine, ammonia, and strong beef-tea. These should be had recourse to when the tongue gets dry and dark, and the pulse weak and frequent. If there should be, after the lapse of a week or two, pain over one particular part of the belly, a blister should be put on it, and a powder of mercury and chalk-grey powder, and Dover's powder (two grains of the former and five of the latter) given three times a day. Affections of the head and chest also frequently occur as a consequence of these kinds of burns, but no one who is not a medical man can treat them.
2621. Second Class. Local Treatment.—Since the symptoms of these types of burns are more severe than those of the first class, the treatments used are also stronger. Carefully remove any clothing from the burned area, being careful not to break any blisters, and apply the following liniment (No. 1) to a piece of linen or lint—not the fluffy side: the liniment should consist of equal parts lime-water and linseed oil, mixed well. If the burn is on the torso, it's better to use a warm linseed-meal poultice. After a few days, dress the wound with Turner's cerate. If the burn is at the elbow, keep the arm in a straight position; if it's bent, the skin will heal contracted, and the arm will likely remain in an unnatural position. This applies to all parts of the body; always position the affected area as stretched as possible.—Constitutional Treatment. The same type of treatment is to be used as for the first class, but it must be more potent. Stimulants are often needed, but should be given with great care. If there is significant irritability and restlessness, a dose of opium (paregoric, in doses from sixty to a hundred drops, depending on age, is best) can be very helpful. Fever symptoms will require laxatives and a fever mixture. A drink made of about a tablespoon of cream of tartar and a little lemon juice in a quart of warm water, allowed to cool, is very effective in these cases. The diet throughout should not be too light, especially if there is a lot of discharge from the wound. After a few days, it may be necessary to provide wine, ammonia, and strong beef tea. These should be used when the tongue becomes dry and dark, and the pulse weak and rapid. If, after a week or two, there is pain in a specific part of the abdomen, a blister should be applied, and a powder of mercury and chalk-grey powder, along with Dover's powder (two grains of the former and five of the latter) should be administered three times a day. Head and chest issues often arise as a result of these burns, but should only be treated by a medical professional.
2622. Third Class.—These are so severe as to make it impossible for a non-professional person to be of much service in attending to them. When they occur, a surgeon should always be sent for. Until he arrives, however, the following treatment should be adopted:—Place the patient full-length on his back, and keep him warm. Apply fomentations of flannels wrung out of boiling water and sprinkled with spirits of turpentine to the part, and give wine and sal-volatile in such quantities as the prostration of strength requires; always bearing in mind the great fact that you have to steer between two quicksands—death from present prostration and death from future excitement, which will always be increased in proportion to the amount of stimulants given. Give, therefore, only just as much as is absolutely necessary to keep life in the body.
2622. Third Class.—These are so serious that it’s almost impossible for someone who isn’t a professional to be of much help. When they happen, a surgeon should always be called. Until he arrives, the following treatment should be followed:—Lay the patient flat on their back and keep them warm. Apply warm, damp cloths, soaked in boiling water and sprinkled with turpentine, to the affected area, and provide wine and sal-volatile in amounts needed to counteract weakness; always remembering the crucial fact that you have to navigate between two dangers—death from current weakness and death from future overexcitement, which will always increase with the amount of stimulants given. Therefore, administer only what is absolutely necessary to keep the person alive.
2623. CONCUSSION OF BRAIN—STUNNING.—This may be caused by a blow or a fall.—Symptoms. Cold skin; weak pulse; almost total insensibility; slow, weak breathing; pupil of eye sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller, than natural; inability to move; unwillingness to answer when spoken to. These symptoms come on directly after the accident.—Treatment. Place the patient quietly on a warm bed, send for a surgeon, and do nothing else for the first four or six hours. After this time the skin will become hot, the pulse full, and the patient feverish altogether. If the surgeon has not arrived by the time these symptoms have set in, shave the patient's head, and apply the following lotion (No. 2): Mix half an ounce of sal-ammoniac, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of gin or whisky, in half a pint of water. Then give this pill (No. 1); Mix five grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Give a black draught three hours after the pill, and two tablespoonfuls of the above-mentioned fever-mixture every four hours. Keep on low diet. Leeches are sometimes to be applied to the head. These cases are often followed by violent inflammation of the brain. They can, therefore, only be attended to properly throughout by a surgeon. The great thing for people to do in these cases is—nothing; contenting themselves with putting the patient to bed, and waiting the arrival of a surgeon.
2623. CONCUSSION OF BRAIN—STUNNING.—This can happen due to a blow or a fall.—Symptoms. Cold skin; weak pulse; nearly complete unconsciousness; slow, weak breathing; pupils of the eyes sometimes larger or smaller than normal; inability to move; reluctance to respond when addressed. These symptoms appear immediately after the accident.—Treatment. Gently place the patient on a warm bed, call for a surgeon, and do nothing else for the first four to six hours. After this period, the skin will become warm, the pulse stronger, and the patient will show signs of fever. If the surgeon hasn't arrived by the time these symptoms develop, shave the patient’s head and apply the following lotion (No. 2): Mix half an ounce of sal-ammoniac, two tablespoons of vinegar, and the same amount of gin or whiskey, in half a pint of water. Then give this pill (No. 1); Mix five grains of calomel and the same amount of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and form into two pills. Administer a black draught three hours after the pill, and give two tablespoons of the aforementioned fever mixture every four hours. Maintain a low diet. Leeches may sometimes be used on the head. These cases can often lead to severe brain inflammation. Proper management should, therefore, be overseen by a surgeon. The main thing for people to do in these situations is—nothing; simply settle the patient in bed and wait for the surgeon to arrive.
2624. THE CHOLERA AND AUTUMNAL COMPLAINTS.—To oppose cholera, there seems no surer or better means than cleanliness, sobriety, and judicious ventilation. Where there is dirt, that is the place for cholera; where windows and doors are kept most jealously shut, there cholera will find easiest entrance; and people who indulge in intemperate diet during the hot days of autumn are actually courting death. To repeat it, cleanliness, sobriety, and free ventilation almost always defy the pestilence; but, in case of attack, immediate recourse should be had to a physician. The faculty say that a large number of lives have been lost, in many seasons, solely from delay in seeking medical assistance. They even assert that, taken early, the cholera is by no means a fatal disorder. The copious use of salt is recommended on very excellent authority. Other autumnal complaints there are, of which diarrhoea is the worst example. They come on with pain, flatulence, sickness, with or without vomiting, followed by loss of appetite, general lassitude, and weakness. If attended to at the first appearance, they may soon be conquered; for which purpose it is necessary to assist nature in throwing off the contents of the bowels, which may be one by means of the following prescription:—Take of calomel 3 grains, rhubarb 8 grains; mix and take it in a little honey or jelly, and repeat the dose three times, at the intervals of four or five hours. The next purpose to be answered is the defence of the lining membrane of the intestines from their acrid contents, which will be best effected by drinking copiously of linseed tea, or of a drink made by pouring boiling water on quince-seeds, which are of a very mucilaginous nature; or, what is still better, full draughts of whey. If the complaint continue after these means have been employed, some astringent or binding medicine will be required, as the subjoined:—Take of prepared chalk 2 drachms, cinnamon-water 7 oz., syrup of poppies 1 oz.; mix, and take 3 tablespoonfuls every four hours. Should this fail to complete the cure, 1/2 oz. of tincture of catechu, or of kino, may be added to it, and then it will seldom fail; or a teaspoonful of the tincture of kino alone, with a little water, every three hours, till the diarrhoea is checked. While any symptoms of derangement are present, particular attention must be paid to the diet, which should be of a soothing, lubricating, and light nature, as instanced in veal or chicken broth, which should contain but little salt. Rice, batter, and bread puddings will be generally relished, and be eaten with advantage; but the stomach is too much impaired to digest food of a more solid nature. Indeed, we should give that organ, together with the bowels, as little trouble as possible, while they are so incapable of acting in their accustomed manner. Much mischief is frequently produced by the absurd practice of taking tincture of rhubarb, which is almost certain of aggravating that species of disorder of which we have now treated; for it is a spirit as strong as brandy, and cannot fail of producing harm upon a surface which is rendered tender by the formation and contact of vitiated bile. But our last advice is, upon the first appearance of such symptoms as are above detailed, have immediate recourse to a doctor, where possible.
2624. CHOLERA AND AUTUMN AILMENTS.—To fight cholera, there's no better way than focusing on cleanliness, moderation, and proper ventilation. Cholera thrives in dirty environments, and it's most likely to spread where windows and doors are tightly shut. People who overindulge in food during the hot days of autumn are truly inviting trouble. To reiterate, cleanliness, moderation, and good ventilation usually keep diseases at bay; however, if cholera strikes, it's crucial to see a doctor right away. Many lives have been lost in various seasons simply due to delays in seeking medical help. Experts even claim that if caught early, cholera isn't necessarily deadly. It's highly recommended to use salt, based on very reliable sources. There are also other autumn ailments, with diarrhea being the worst. These ailments come with pain, bloating, nausea—with or without vomiting—followed by lack of appetite, general fatigue, and weakness. If treated at the first signs, they can be easily overcome; to do this, it's important to help the body eliminate waste, which can be done with the following prescription:—Take 3 grains of calomel and 8 grains of rhubarb; mix and take it with a bit of honey or jelly, repeating the dose three times at intervals of four to five hours. The next goal is to protect the lining of the intestines from irritating contents, which is best achieved by drinking plenty of linseed tea or a drink made by pouring boiling water over quince seeds, known for their mucilaginous properties; or, even better, by drinking full glasses of whey. If symptoms persist after trying these remedies, some astringent or binding medicine will be necessary, like the following:—Take 2 drachms of prepared chalk, 7 oz. of cinnamon water, and 1 oz. of syrup of poppies; mix and take 3 tablespoons every four hours. If this doesn’t fully address the issue, add 1/2 oz. of tincture of catechu or kino to the mixture; it rarely fails then; alternatively, take a teaspoon of tincture of kino with a bit of water every three hours until diarrhea stops. While any signs of disruption remain, it's crucial to pay special attention to diet, which should be soothing, lubricating, and light, such as veal or chicken broth with minimal salt. Rice, batter, and bread puddings will generally be well-received and beneficial; however, the stomach can't handle heavier foods right now. Indeed, we should aim to stress both the stomach and intestines as little as possible while they aren't functioning normally. Much harm can result from the foolish practice of taking tincture of rhubarb, which is almost guaranteed to worsen the kind of disorder we've discussed since it's a spirit as strong as brandy, likely damaging tender areas affected by bad bile. Our final recommendation is to seek a doctor immediately at the first sign of any of these symptoms, if possible.
2625. TO CURE A COLD.—Put a large teacupful of linseed, with 1/4 lb. of sun raisins and 2 oz. of stick liquorice, into 2 quarts of soft water, and let it simmer over a slow fire till reduced to one quart; add to it 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar-candy, a tablespoonful of old rum, and a tablespoonful of the best white-wine vinegar, or lemon-juice. The rum and vinegar should be added as the decoction is taken; for, if they are put in at first, the whole soon becomes flat and less efficacious. The dose is half a pint, made warm, on going to bed; and a little may be taken whenever the cough is troublesome. The worst cold is generally cured by this remedy in two or three days; and, if taken in time, is considered infallible.
2625. TO CURE A COLD.—Put a large cup of linseed, with 1/4 lb. of sun raisins and 2 oz. of stick licorice, into 2 quarts of soft water, and let it simmer over a low flame until it reduces to one quart; then add 1/4 lb. of crushed sugar candy, a tablespoon of old rum, and a tablespoon of the best white wine vinegar or lemon juice. The rum and vinegar should be added as you take the mixture; if they are added at the beginning, the whole thing quickly becomes flat and less effective. The dose is half a pint, warmed up, before bed; and you can take a little whenever the cough bothers you. The worst cold is usually cured by this remedy in two or three days; and if taken promptly, it is considered foolproof.
2626. COLD ON THE CHEST.—A flannel dipped in boiling water, and sprinkled with turpentine, laid on the chest as quickly as possible, will relieve the most severe cold or hoarseness.
2626. COLD ON THE CHEST.—A flannel soaked in boiling water and sprinkled with turpentine, placed on the chest as soon as possible, will relieve even the worst cold or hoarseness.
2627. SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE.—To remove fine particles of gravel, lime, &c., the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till free from them. Be particular not to worry the eye, under the impression that the substance is still there, which the enlargement of some of the minute vessels makes the patient believe is actually the case.
2627. SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE.—To remove small particles of gravel, lime, etc., gently rinse the eye with lukewarm water until it's clear. Be careful not to irritate the eye, thinking that the foreign substance is still there, as the swelling of some tiny blood vessels might lead the person to believe that's true.
2628. SORE EYES.—Incorporate thoroughly, in a glass mortar or vessel, one part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermaceti ointment. Use the mixture night and morning, by placing a piece of the size of a pea in the corner of the eye affected, only to be used in cases of chronic or long-standing inflammation of the organ, or its lids.
2628. SORE EYES.—Thoroughly mix one part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermaceti ointment in a glass mortar or container. Apply the mixture morning and night by putting a piece the size of a pea in the corner of the affected eye. This should only be used for chronic or long-standing inflammation of the eye or its eyelids.
2629. LIME IN THE EYE.—Bathe the eye with a little weak vinegar-and-water, and carefully remove any little piece of lime which may be seen, with a feather. If any lime has got entangled in the eyelashes, carefully clear it away with a bit of soft linen soaked in vinegar-and-water. Violent inflammation is sure to follow; a smart purge must be therefore administered, and in all probability a blister must be applied on the temple, behind the ear, or nape of the neck.
2629. LIME IN THE EYE.—Rinse the eye with a little diluted vinegar and water, and gently remove any small piece of lime you can see with a feather. If any lime is stuck in the eyelashes, carefully take it out with a soft cloth soaked in vinegar and water. Severe inflammation is likely to follow; therefore, a strong laxative should be given, and it's probably necessary to apply a blister on the temple, behind the ear, or at the back of the neck.
2630. STYE IN THE EYE.—Styes are little abscesses which form between the roots of the eyelashes, and are rarely larger than a small pea. The best way to manage them is to bathe them frequently with warm water, or in warm poppy-water, if very painful. When they have burst, use an ointment composed of one part of citron ointment and four of spermaceti, well rubbed together, and smear along the edge of the eyelid. Give a grain or two of calomel with 5 or 8 grains of rhubarb, according to the age of the child, twice a week. The old-fashioned and apparently absurd practice of rubbing the stye with a ring, is as good and speedy a cure as that by any process of medicinal application; though the number of times it is rubbed, or the quality of the ring and direction of the strokes, has nothing to do with its success. The pressure and the friction excite the vessels of the part, and cause an absorption of the effused matter under the eyelash. The edge of the nail will answer as well as a ring.
2630. STYE IN THE EYE.—Styes are small abscesses that form between the roots of the eyelashes and are usually no bigger than a small pea. The best way to treat them is to bathe them frequently with warm water, or in warm poppy-water if they are very painful. Once they have burst, apply an ointment made of one part citron ointment and four parts spermaceti, mixed well, and smear it along the edge of the eyelid. Give a grain or two of calomel with 5 or 8 grains of rhubarb, depending on the child's age, twice a week. The old-fashioned and seemingly silly practice of rubbing the stye with a ring is just as effective and quick a cure as any medicinal treatment; however, the number of times it is rubbed, the quality of the ring, and the direction of the strokes don't affect its success. The pressure and friction stimulate the blood vessels in the area and help absorb the fluid that has collected under the eyelash. The edge of the nail works just as well as a ring.
2631. INFLAMMATION OF THE EYELIDS.—The following ointment has been found very beneficial in inflammations of the eyeball and edges of the eyelids:—Take of prepared calomel, 1 scruple; spermaceti ointment, 1/2 oz. Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a small quantity to each corner of the eye every night and morning, and also to the edges of the lids, if they are affected. If this should not eventually remove the inflammation, elder-flower water may be applied three or four times a day, by means of an eye-cup. The bowels should be kept in a laxative state, by taking occasionally a quarter of an ounce of the Cheltenham or Epsom salts.
2631. INFLAMMATION OF THE EYELIDS.—The following ointment has been found very helpful for inflammation of the eyeball and the edges of the eyelids:—Take 1 scruple of prepared calomel and 1/2 oz. of spermaceti ointment. Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a small amount to each corner of the eye every morning and evening, and also to the edges of the eyelids if they are affected. If this does not eventually clear up the inflammation, elder-flower water can be applied three or four times a day using an eye cup. Keep the bowels in a laxative state by occasionally taking a quarter of an ounce of Cheltenham or Epsom salts.
2632. FASTING.—It is said by many able physicians that fasting is a means of removing incipient disease, and of restoring the body to its customary healthy sensations. Howard, the celebrated philanthropist (says a writer), used to fast one day in every week. Napoleon, when he felt his system unstrung, suspended his wonted repast, and took his exercise on horseback.
2632. FASTING.—Many skilled doctors say that fasting can help eliminate early signs of illness and bring the body back to its normal healthy state. Howard, the famous philanthropist (according to a writer), would fast one day every week. Napoleon, when he felt out of sorts, would skip his usual meals and go for a horseback ride.
Fits.
Fits.
2633. Fits come on so suddenly, often without even the slightest warning, and may prove fatal so quickly, that all people should be acquainted at least with their leading symptoms and treatment, as a few moments, more or less, will often decide the question between life and death. The treatment, in very many cases at least, to be of the slightest use, should be immediate, as a person in a fit (of apoplexy for instance) may die while a surgeon is being fetched from only the next street. We shall give, as far as the fact of our editing a work for non-professional readers will permit, the peculiar and distinctive symptoms of all kind of fits, and the immediate treatment to be adopted in each case.
2633. Seizures can happen suddenly, often without any warning, and can lead to death so quickly that everyone should know at least the main symptoms and how to treat them since just a few moments can decide between life and death. In many cases, the treatment needs to be immediate, as someone having a seizure (like from a stroke, for example) can die while we're calling for a surgeon from just down the street. We'll provide, as much as our editing for non-professional readers allows, the specific and unique symptoms of all types of seizures and the immediate treatment to take in each instance.
2634. APOPLEXY.—These fits may be divided into two kinds—the strong and the weak.
2634. APOPLEXY.—These episodes can be divided into two types—the strong and the weak.
2635. 1. The strong kind.—These cases mostly occur in stout, strong, short-necked, bloated-faced people, who are in the habit of living well.—Symptoms. The patient may or may not have had headache, sparks before his eyes, with confusion of ideas and giddiness, for a day or two before the attack. When it takes place, he falls down insensible; the body becomes paralyzed, generally more so on one side than the other; the face and head are hot, and the blood-vessels about them swollen; the pupils of the eyes are larger than natural, and the eyes themselves are fixed; the mouth is mostly drawn down at one corner; the breathing is like loud snoring; the pulse full and hard.—Treatment. Place the patient immediately in bed, with his head well raised; take off everything that he has round his neck, and bleed freely and at once from the arm. If you have not got a lancet, use a penknife or anything suitable that may be at hand. Apply warm mustard poultices to the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs; put two drops of castor oil, mixed up with eight grains of calomel, on the top of the tongue, as far back as possible; a most important part of the treatment being to open the bowels as quickly and freely as possible. The patient cannot swallow; but these medicines, especially the oil, will be absorbed into the stomach altogether independent of any voluntary action. If possible, throw up a warm turpentine clyster (two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel), or, if this cannot be obtained, one composed of about a quart of warm salt-and-water and soap. Cut off the hair, and apply rags dipped in weak vinegar-and-water, or weak gin-and-water, or even simple cold water, to the head. If the blood-vessels about the head and neck are much swollen, put from eight to ten leeches on the temple opposite to the paralyzed side of the body. Always send for a surgeon immediately, and act according to the above rules, doing more or less, according to the means at hand, and the length of time that must necessarily elapse until he arrives. A pint, or even a quart of blood in a very strong person, may be taken away. When the patient is able to swallow, give him the No. 1 pills, and the No. 1 mixture directly. [The No. 1 pills are made as follows:—Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb: make into two pills, the dose for a full-grown person. For the No. 1 mixture, dissolve on ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose] Repeat these remedies if the bowels are not well opened. Keep the patient's head well raised, and cool as above. Give very low diet indeed: gruel, arrowroot, and the like. When a person is recovering, he should have blisters applied to the nape of the neck, his bowels should be kept well open, light diet given, and fatigue, worry, and excess of all kinds avoided.
2635. 1. The strong kind.—These cases mostly happen in robust, strong, stocky individuals with round faces who tend to enjoy rich living.—Symptoms. The patient might have experienced headaches, visual disturbances with flashes of light, confusion, and dizziness for a day or two before the episode. When it occurs, the person collapses and becomes unresponsive; their body may become paralyzed, often more on one side than the other; the face and head feel hot, and the blood vessels are swollen; the pupils are larger than usual, and the eyes are fixed; usually, one corner of the mouth droops; breathing resembles loud snoring; and the pulse is strong and full.—Treatment. Immediately place the patient in bed with their head elevated; remove anything constricting around their neck and quickly draw blood from the arm. If you don’t have a lancet, use a penknife or any suitable tool you can find. Apply warm mustard poultices to the soles of the feet and the inner thighs and legs; place two drops of castor oil mixed with eight grains of calomel on the back of the tongue as far back as possible; a crucial part of the treatment is to open the bowels quickly and thoroughly. The patient may be unable to swallow; however, these medications, especially the oil, will be absorbed into the stomach without any need for voluntary action. If possible, administer a warm turpentine enema (two tablespoons of oil of turpentine mixed in a pint of warm gruel), or if that’s not available, use a quart of warm saltwater and soap. Cut the hair and apply rags soaked in weak vinegar and water, or weak gin and water, or even plain cold water, to the head. If the blood vessels in the head and neck are significantly swollen, place eight to ten leeches on the temple opposite the paralyzed side of the body. Always call a surgeon immediately and follow the above guidelines, adjusting as necessary based on the resources available and the estimated time until help arrives. Remove a pint, or even a quart, of blood from a very vigorous person if required. Once the patient is able to swallow, give them the No. 1 pills and the No. 1 mixture right away. [The No. 1 pills are prepared by mixing 5 grains of calomel and the same amount of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb: form this into two pills, the dose for an adult. For the No. 1 mixture, dissolve one ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea: take a quarter of the mixture as a dose.] Repeat these remedies if the bowels aren't fully moving. Keep the patient's head elevated and cool as previously mentioned. Provide a very light diet: gruel, arrowroot, and similar foods. When the person starts to recover, apply blisters to the back of the neck, ensure their bowels remain active, offer light food, and avoid fatigue, stress, and excess of any kind.
2636. 2. The weak kind.—Symptoms. These attacks are more frequently preceded by warning symptoms than the first kind. The face is pale, the pulse weak, and the body, especially the hands and legs, cold. After a little while, these symptoms sometimes alter to those of the first class in a mild degree.—Treatment. At first, if the pulse is very feeble indeed, a little brandy-and-water or sal-volatile must be given. Mustard poultices are to be put, as before, to the soles of the foot and the insides of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or bottles filled with warm water, are also to be placed under the armpits. When the strength has returned, the body become warmer, and the pulse fuller and harder, the head should be shaved, and wet rags applied to it, as before described. Leeches should be put, as before, to the temple opposite the side paralyzed; and the bowels should be opened as freely and as quickly as possible. Bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases, but a non-professional person should never have recourse to it. Blisters may be applied to the nape of the neck at once. The diet in those cases should not be so low as in the former—indeed, it is often necessary, in a day or so after one of these attacks, to give wine, strong beef-tea, &c., according to the condition of the patient's strength.
2636. 2. The weak kind.—Symptoms. These episodes are more often preceded by warning signs than the first type. The face appears pale, the pulse is weak, and the body, especially the hands and legs, feels cold. After a while, these symptoms may sometimes change to those of the first type, but in a milder form.—Treatment. Initially, if the pulse is very weak indeed, a little brandy mixed with water or sal-volatile should be given. Mustard poultices should be placed on the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks or bottles filled with warm water should also be positioned under the armpits. Once strength has returned, the body gets warmer, and the pulse becomes stronger and more defined, the head should be shaved, and wet rags applied to it, as previously mentioned. Leeches should be applied to the temple on the side opposite the paralysis, and the bowels should be opened as freely and quickly as possible. Bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases, but a non-professional person should never attempt this. Blisters may be applied to the nape of the neck immediately. The diet in these cases should not be as restricted as in the earlier type—indeed, it often becomes necessary, a day or so after one of these attacks, to provide wine, strong beef tea, etc., depending on the patient's condition.
2637. Distinctions between Apoplexy and Epilepsy.—1. Apoplexy mostly happens in people over thirty, whereas epilepsy generally occurs under that ago; at any rate for the first time. A person who has epileptic fits over thirty, has generally suffered from them for some years. 2. Again, in apoplexy, the body is paralyzed; and, therefore, has not the convulsions which take place in epilepsy. 3. The peculiar snoring will also distinguish apoplexy from epilepsy.
2637. Distinctions between Apoplexy and Epilepsy.—1. Apoplexy mostly occurs in people over thirty, while epilepsy usually happens in those younger than that; at least for the first time. A person who experiences epileptic seizures after thirty has typically had them for several years. 2. Additionally, in apoplexy, the body becomes paralyzed, which means it does not have the convulsions seen in epilepsy. 3. The distinct snoring will also help differentiate apoplexy from epilepsy.
2638. Distinctions between Apoplexy and Drunkeness.—1. The known habits of the person. 2. The fact of a person who was perfectly sober and sensible a little time before, being found in a state of insensibility. 3. The absence, in apoplexy, of the smell of drink on applying the nose to the mouth. 4. A person in a fit of apoplexy cannot be roused at all; in drunkenness he mostly can, to a certain extent.
2638. Distinctions between Apoplexy and Drunkenness.—1. The known habits of the person. 2. The situation where someone who was completely sober and aware just a short time ago is now found to be unresponsive. 3. The lack of the smell of alcohol when you put your nose close to the person's mouth in cases of apoplexy. 4. A person having an apoplexy cannot be awakened at all; in contrast, someone who is drunk can mostly be roused to some degree.
2639. Distinction between Apoplexy and Hysteria.—Hysterics mostly happen in young, nervous, unmarried women; and are attended with convulsions, sobbing, laughter, throwing about of the body, &c. &c.
2639. Distinction between Apoplexy and Hysteria.—Hysterics mostly occur in young, anxious, unmarried women and are accompanied by convulsions, crying, laughing, flailing of the body, etc.
2640. Distinction between Apoplexy and Poisoning by Opium.—It is exceedingly difficult to distinguish between these two cases. In poisoning by opium, however, we find the particular smell of the drug in the patient's breath. We should also, in forming our opinion, take into consideration the person's previous conduct—whether he has been low and desponding for some time before, or has ever talked about committing suicide.
2640. The Difference Between Apoplexy and Opium Poisoning.—It’s really hard to tell these two cases apart. In opium poisoning, though, you can usually smell the drug on the patient's breath. We should also consider the person’s prior behavior—whether they seemed down and hopeless for a while or had ever mentioned wanting to commit suicide.
2641. EPILEPSY.—Falling Sickness.—Those fits mostly happen, at any rate for the first time, to young people, and are more common in boys than girls. They are produced by numerous causes.—Symptoms. The fit may be preceded by pains in the head, palpitations, &c. &c.; but it mostly happens that the person falls down insensible suddenly, and without any warning whatever. The eyes are distorted, so that only their whites can be seen; there is mostly foaming from the mouth; the fingers are clinched; and the body, especially on one side, is much agitated; the tongue is often thrust out of the mouth. When the fit goes off, the patient feels drowsy and faint, and often sleeps soundly for some time.—Treatment. During the fit, keep the patient flat on his back, with his head slightly raised, and prevent him from doing any harm to himself; dash cold water into his face, and apply smelling-salts to his nose; loosen his shirt collar, &c.; hold a piece of wood about as thick as a finger—the handle of a tooth-brush or knife will do as well—between the two rows of teeth, at the back part of the mouth. This will prevent the tongue from being injured. A teaspoonful of common salt thrust into the patient's mouth, during the fit, is of much service. The after-treatment of these fits is various, and depends entirely upon their causes. A good general rule, however, is always to keep the bowels well open, and the patient quiet, and free from fatigue, worry, and excess of all kinds.
2641. EPILEPSY.—Falling Sickness.—These seizures usually occur, at least for the first time, in young people and are more common in boys than girls. They can be triggered by various causes.—Symptoms. The seizure may be preceded by headaches, heart palpitations, etc.; however, it often happens that the person suddenly falls down unconscious and without any warning. The eyes become distorted, so only the whites can be seen; there is usually frothing at the mouth; the fingers are clenched; and the body, especially on one side, may convulse violently; the tongue is often protruding from the mouth. After the seizure, the patient feels drowsy and weak, and often sleeps deeply for a while.—Treatment. During the seizure, keep the patient lying flat on their back with their head slightly elevated, and ensure they don't injure themselves; splash cold water on their face and apply smelling salts to their nose; loosen their shirt collar, etc.; place a piece of wood that's about as thick as a finger—like the handle of a toothbrush or knife—between their teeth at the back of the mouth to prevent the tongue from being injured. A teaspoonful of common salt placed in the patient's mouth during the seizure can be very helpful. The follow-up treatment for these seizures varies and depends completely on their causes. However, a good general rule is to keep the bowels regular and ensure the patient is calm, free from fatigue, stress, and excess of all kinds.
2642. Fainting Fits are sometimes very dangerous, and at others perfectly harmless; the question of danger depending altogether upon the causes which have produced them, and which are exceedingly various. For instance, fainting produced by disease of the heart is a very serious symptom indeed; whereas, that arising from some slight cause, such as the sight of blood, &c., need cause no alarm whatever. The symptoms of simple fainting are so well known that it would be quite superfluous to enumerate them here. The treatment consists in laying the patient at full length upon his back, with his head upon a level with the rest of his body, loosening everything about the neck, dashing cold water into the face, and sprinkling vinegar and water about the mouth; applying smelling-salts to the nose; and, when the patient is able to swallow, in giving a little warm brandy-and-water, or about 20 drops of sal-volatile in water.
2642. Fainting Fits can sometimes be very dangerous, while at other times they are completely harmless; the level of danger depends entirely on the causes behind them, which can vary widely. For example, fainting caused by heart disease is a serious issue; however, fainting triggered by minor causes, like the sight of blood, should not raise any concerns. The symptoms of simple fainting are well-known, so there's no need to list them here. The treatment involves laying the patient flat on their back, keeping their head level with the rest of their body, loosening any tight clothing around the neck, splashing cold water on their face, and applying a mixture of vinegar and water around their mouth; using smelling salts nearby; and, when the patient can swallow, giving them a little warm brandy-and-water, or about 20 drops of sal-volatile mixed in water.
2643. Hysterics.—These fits take place, for the most part, in young, nervous, unmarried women. They happen much less often in married women; and even (in some rare cases indeed) in men. Young women, who are subject to these fits, are apt to think that they are suffering from "all the ills that flesh is heir to;" and the false symptoms of disease which they show are so like the true ones, that it is often exceedingly difficult to detect the difference. The fits themselves are mostly preceded by great depression of spirits, shedding of tears, sickness, palpitation of the heart, &c. A pain, as if a nail were being driven in, is also often felt at one particular part of the head. In almost all cases, when a fit is coming on, pain is felt on the left side. This pain rises gradually until it reaches the throat, and then gives the patient a sensation as if she had a pellet there, which prevents her from breathing properly, and, in fact, seems to threaten actual suffocation. The patient now generally becomes insensible, and faints; the body is thrown about in all directions, froth issues from the mouth, incoherent expressions are uttered, and fits of laughter, crying, or screaming, take place. When the fit is going off, the patient mostly cries bitterly, sometimes knowing all, and at others nothing, of what has taken place, and feeling general soreness all over the body. Treatment during the fit. Place the body in the same position as for simple fainting, and treat, in other respects, as directed in the article on Epilepsy. Always well loosen the patient's stays; and, when she is recovering, and able to swallow, give 20 drops of sal volatile in a little water. The after-treatment of these cases is very various. If the patient is of a strong constitution, she should live on plain diet, take plenty of exercise, and take occasional doses of castor oil, or an aperient mixture, such as that described as "No. 1," in previous numbers. If, as is mostly the case, the patient is weak and delicate, she will require a different mode of treatment altogether. Good nourishing diet, gentle exercise, cold baths, occasionally a dose of No. 3 myrrh and aloes pills at night, and a dose of compound iron pills twice a day. [As to the myrrh and aloes pills (No. 3), 10 grains made into two pills are a dose for a full-grown person. Of the compound iron pills (No. 4), the dose for a full grown person is also 10 grains, made into two pills.] In every case, amusing the mind, and avoiding all causes of over-excitement, are of great service in bringing about a permanent cure.
2643. Hysterics.—These episodes mostly occur in young, nervous, unmarried women. They are much less common in married women and occasionally seen in men. Young women prone to these episodes often feel like they're suffering from "all the ills that flesh is heir to," and the false symptoms they display are so similar to real ones that it can be extremely hard to tell the difference. These episodes are typically preceded by significant sadness, crying, nausea, heart palpitations, etc. A sharp pain, like a nail being driven in, is also frequently felt in a specific spot on the head. In almost all cases, when an episode is about to occur, pain is felt on the left side. This pain gradually rises until it reaches the throat, creating a sensation like a lump there, which makes it hard for her to breathe and feels like it's threatening suffocation. The patient often becomes unconscious and faints; her body may thrash around, froth may come from her mouth, she may utter incoherent phrases, and may have fits of laughter, crying, or screaming. When the episode is ending, the patient usually cries bitterly, sometimes recalling everything that happened and other times remembering nothing, while feeling overall soreness. Treatment during the episode. Place the body in the same position as for simple fainting and treat otherwise as instructed in the article on Epilepsy. Always loosen the patient's corset; and when she starts to recover and can swallow, give her 20 drops of sal volatile in a little water. The after-treatment for these cases varies. If the patient is strong, she should stick to a plain diet, get plenty of exercise, and occasionally take doses of castor oil or an aperient mixture, like the one described as "No. 1," in previous entries. If, as is usually the case, the patient is weak and delicate, she will need a completely different treatment approach. A good nourishing diet, gentle exercise, cold baths, occasionally a dose of No. 3 myrrh and aloes pills at night, and a dose of compound iron pills twice daily. [For the myrrh and aloes pills (No. 3), 10 grains divided into two pills is the dose for an adult. The same applies to the compound iron pills (No. 4), with a full-grown person’s dose also being 10 grains, made into two pills.] In every case, keeping the mind entertained and avoiding all sources of over-excitement are very helpful in achieving a lasting cure.
2644. LIVER COMPLAINT AND SPASMS.—A very obliging correspondent recommends the following, from personal experience:—Take 4 oz. of dried dandelion root, 1 oz. of the best ginger, 1/4 oz. of Columba root; braise and boil all together in 3 pints of water till it is reduced to a quart: strain, and take a wine-glassful every four hours. Our correspondent says it is a "safe and simple medicine for both liver complaint and spasms."
2644. LIVER COMPLAINT AND SPASMS.—A helpful reader suggests the following remedy based on personal experience: Take 4 oz. of dried dandelion root, 1 oz. of high-quality ginger, and 1/4 oz. of Columba root; simmer and boil everything together in 3 pints of water until it's reduced to a quart. Strain it, and take a wine glass full every four hours. Our reader claims it's a "safe and simple remedy for both liver issues and spasms."
2645. LUMBAGO.—A "new and successful mode" of treating lumbago, advocated by Dr. Day, is a form of counter-irritation, said to have been introduced into this country by the late Sir Anthony Carlisle, and which consists in the instantaneous application of a flat iron button, gently heated in a spirit-lamp, to the skin. Dr. Corrigan published, about three years ago, an account of some cases very successfully treated by nearly similar means. Dr. Corrigan's plan was, however, to touch the surface of the part affected, at intervals of half an inch, as lightly and rapidly as possible. Dr. Day has found greater advantages to result from drawing the flat surface of the heated button lightly over the affected part, so as to act on a greater extent of surface. The doctor speaks so enthusiastically of the benefit to be derived from this practice, that it is evidently highly deserving attention.
2645. LUMBAGO.—A "new and successful method" for treating lumbago, recommended by Dr. Day, involves a form of counter-irritation that was reportedly introduced to this country by the late Sir Anthony Carlisle. This method consists of quickly applying a flat iron button, gently heated over a spirit lamp, to the skin. About three years ago, Dr. Corrigan published details of some cases that were successfully treated using a similar technique. However, Dr. Corrigan's approach involved lightly and quickly touching the affected area at half-inch intervals. Dr. Day has observed better results by moving the flat surface of the heated button lightly over the affected area to cover a larger surface. The doctor speaks so enthusiastically about the benefits of this practice that it clearly warrants attention.
2646. PALPITATION OF THE HEART.—Where palpitation occurs as symptomatic of indigestion, the treatment must be directed to remedy that disorder; when it is consequent on a plethoric state, purgatives will be effectual. In this case the patient should abstain from every kind of diet likely to produce a plethoric condition of body. Animal food and fermented liquor must be particularly avoided. Too much indulgence in sleep will also prove injurious. When the attacks arise from nervous irritability, the excitement must be allayed by change of air and a tonic diet. Should the palpitation originate from organic derangement, it must be, of course, beyond domestic management. Luxurious living, indolence, and tight-lacing often produce this affection: such cases are to be conquered with a little resolution.
2646. HEART PALPITATIONS.—If palpitations happen because of indigestion, the treatment should focus on fixing that issue; if they are due to an excess of blood, laxatives will be effective. In this case, the patient should avoid any foods that could lead to an overabundance in the body. Specifically, animal products and alcoholic drinks should be avoided. Additionally, too much sleep can also be harmful. If the palpitations result from nervous tension, this should be soothed by getting fresh air and eating a nutritious diet. If the palpitations come from an underlying health issue, treatment should be handled by a medical professional. Overindulgence, lack of activity, and tight clothing often cause this problem: such situations can be managed with some determination.
2647. Poisons shall be the next subject for remark; and we anticipate more detailed instructions for the treatment of persons poisoned, by giving a simple LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL POISONS, with their ANTIDOTES OR REMEDIES.
2647. Poisons will be the next topic to discuss; and we expect more detailed instructions for treating people who have been poisoned, by providing a simple LIST OF THE MAIN POISONS, along with their ANTIDOTES OR REMEDIES.
Oil of Vitriol ……………\
Aquafortis ………………. Magnesia, Chalk, Soap-and-Water.
Spirit of Salt ……………/
Oil of Vitriol ……………\
Aquafortis ………………. Magnesia, Chalk, Soap-and-Water.
Spirit of Salt ……………/
Emetic Tartar…………….. Oily Drinks, Solution of Oak-bark.
Emetic Tartar…………….. Oily Drinks, Oak-bark Solution.
Salt of Lemons, or………… Chalk, Whiting, Lime or Magnesia and
Acid of Sugar…………….. Water. Sometimes an Emetic
Draught.
Salt of Lemons, or…… Chalk, Whiting, Lime or Magnesia and
Acid of Sugar…………….. Water. Sometimes an Emetic
Draught.
Pump on back, Smelling-Salts to nose,
Prussic Acid………………. Artificial Breathing,
Chloride of Lime to nose.
Pump on back, smelling salts to the nose,
Prussic acid………………. artificial breathing,
chloride of lime to the nose.
Pearlash ………………….\
Soap-Lees…………………. \
Smelling-Salts…………….. \
Nitre…………………….. Lemon-Juice and Vinegar-and-Water
Hartshorn…………………. /
Sal-Volatile………………./
Pearlash ………………….\
Soap-Lees…………………. \
Smelling-Salts…………….. \
Nitre…………………….. Lemon Juice and Vinegar and Water
Hartshorn…………………. /
Sal-Volatile………………./
Arsenic……………………\
Fly-Powder, or…………….. Emetics, Lime-Water, Soap-and-Water,
White Arsenic……………… Sugar and Water, Oily Drinks.
Kings Yellow, or…………… /
Yellow Arsenic……………../
Arsenic……………………\
Fly-Powder, or…………….. Emetics, Lime Water, Soap and Water,
White Arsenic……………… Sugar and Water, Oily Drinks.
Kings Yellow, or…………… /
Yellow Arsenic……………../
Mercury……………………\
Corrosive Sublimate………… Whites of Eggs, Soap-and-Water.
Calomel……………………/
Mercury……………………\
Corrosive Sublimate………… Egg Whites, Soap and Water.
Calomel……………………/
Opium…………………….. Emetic Draught, Vinegar-and-Water,
Laudanum………………….. dashing Cold Water on
chest and
face, walking up and down two or
three hours.
Opium…………………….. Emetic Drink, Vinegar-and-Water,
Laudanum………………….. splashing Cold Water on
chest and
face, pacing back and forth for two or
three hours.
Lead………………………\
White Lead………………… Epsom Salts, Castor Oil, Emetics.
Sugar of Lead………………/
Goulard's Extract…………./
Lead………………………\
White Lead………………… Epsom Salts, Castor Oil, Emetics.
Sugar of Lead………………/
Goulard's Extract…………./
Copper
Blue-stone ……………….. Whites of Eggs, Sugar-and-Water,
Verdigris…………………. Castor Oil, Gruel.
Copper
Blue-stone ……………….. Egg Whites, Sugar Water,
Verdigris…………………. Castor Oil, Thin Oatmeal.
Zinc …………………….. Lime-Water, Chalk-and-Water,
Soap-and-Water.
Zinc …………………….. Lime-Water, Chalk-and-Water,
Soap-and-Water.
Iron …………………….. Magnesia, Warm Water.
Iron …………………….. Magnesia, Hot Water.
Henbane……………………\
Hemlock…………………… Emetics and Castor Oil;
Nightshade………………… Brandy-and-Water, if necessary.
Foxglove…………………../
Henbane……………………\
Hemlock…………………… Emetics and Castor Oil;
Nightshade………………… Brandy and Water, if needed.
Foxglove…………………/
Poisonous Food…………….. Emetics and Castor Oil.
Poisonous Food…………….. Emetics and Castor Oil.
2648. The symptoms of poisoning may be known for the most part from those of some diseases, which they are very like, from the fact of their coming on immediately after eating or drinking something; whereas those of disease come on, in most cases at least, by degrees, and with warnings. In most cases where poison is known, or suspected, to have been taken, the first thing to be done is to empty the stomach, well and immediately, by means of mustard mixed in warm water, or plain warm salt-and-water, or, better, this draught, which we call No. 1:—Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water. This draught to be repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting does not ensue. The back part of the throat should be well tickled with a feather, or two of the fingers thrust down it, to induce vomiting. The cases where vomiting must not be used are those where the skin has been taken off, and the parts touched irritated and inflamed by the poison taken, and where the action of vomiting would increase the evil. Full instructions are given in the article on each particular poison as to where emetics are or are not to be given. The best and safest way of emptying the stomach is by means of the stomach-pump, as in certain cases the action of vomiting is likely to increase the danger arising from the swollen and congested condition of the blood-vessels of the head, which often takes place. In the hands, however, of any one else than a surgeon, it would be not only useless, but harmful, as a great deal of dexterity, caution, and experience are required to use it properly. After having made these brief introductory remarks, we shall now proceed to particulars.
2648. The symptoms of poisoning are mostly similar to those of certain diseases because they often appear immediately after eating or drinking something, while disease symptoms usually develop gradually and come with warnings. When poison is known or suspected to have been ingested, the first thing to do is to empty the stomach quickly and effectively, using mustard mixed in warm water, plain warm saltwater, or preferably, this remedy we call No. 1:—Twenty grains of sulfate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water. Repeat this remedy in fifteen minutes if vomiting does not occur. To induce vomiting, tickle the back of the throat with a feather or use two fingers. Do not induce vomiting in cases where the skin has been damaged and the affected areas have become irritated and inflamed by the poison, as vomiting could worsen the situation. Detailed instructions are provided in the section on each specific poison regarding when emetics should or shouldn't be administered. The safest and most effective way to empty the stomach is through a stomach pump, especially since vomiting can increase the danger that comes from the swelling and congestion of blood vessels in the head. However, unless performed by a surgeon, using a stomach pump is not only ineffective but potentially harmful, as it requires significant skill, caution, and experience to use safely. After these brief introductory remarks, we will now go into the details.
2649. Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol (a clear, colourless liquid, of an oily appearance).—Symptoms in those who have swallowed it. When much is taken, these come on immediately. There is great burning pain, extending from the mouth to the stomach; vomiting of a liquid of a dark coffee-colour, often mixed with shreds of flesh and streaks of blood; the skin inside the mouth is taken off; and the exposed surface is at first white, and after a time becomes brownish. There are sometimes spots of a brown colour round the lips and on the neck, caused by drops of the acid falling on these parts. There is great difficulty of breathing, owing to the swelling at the back part of the mouth. After a time there is much depression of strength, with a quick, weak pulse, and cold, clammy skin. The face is pale, and has a very anxious look. When the acid swallowed has been greatly diluted in water, the same kind of symptoms occur, only in a milder degree.—Treatment. Give a mixture of magnesia in milk-and-water, or, if this cannot be obtained, of finely powdered chalk, or whiting, or even of the plaster torn down from the walls or ceiling, in milk-and-water. The mixture should be nearly as thick as cream, and plenty of it given. As well as this, simple gruel, milk, or thick flour-and-water, are very useful, and should be given in large quantities. Violent inflammation of the parts touched by the acid is most likely to take place in the coarse of a little time, and can only be properly attended to by a surgeon; but if one cannot be obtained, leeches, the fever-mixtures (the recipe for which appears repeatedly in previous paragraphs), thick drinks, such as barley-water, gruel, arrowroot, &c., must be had recourse to, according to the symptoms of each particular case and the means at hand. The inflamed condition of the back part of the mouth requires particular attention. When the breathing is very laboured and difficult in consequence, from fifteen to twenty leeches are to be immediately applied to the outside of the throat, and when they drop off, warm poppy fomentations constantly kept to the part. When the pain over the stomach is very great, the same local treatment is necessary; but if it is only slight, a good mustard poultice will be sufficient without the leeches. In all these cases, two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture should be given every four hours, and only gruel or arrowroot allowed to be eaten for some days.
2649. Sulfuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol (a clear, colorless liquid with an oily look).—Symptoms in those who have swallowed it. If a large amount is ingested, symptoms appear right away. There is intense burning pain from the mouth to the stomach; vomiting of a dark, coffee-colored liquid, often mixed with bits of flesh and blood streaks; the skin inside the mouth is damaged; and the exposed surface starts off white and eventually turns brownish. Brown spots may appear around the lips and on the neck from acid droplets landing on these areas. Breathing is very difficult due to swelling at the back of the mouth. Over time, there is significant weakness, a rapid, weak pulse, and cold, clammy skin. The face is pale and shows signs of anxiety. If the swallowed acid was greatly diluted in water, similar but milder symptoms occur.—Treatment. Give a mixture of magnesia in milk-and-water, or, if that’s not available, finely powdered chalk, or whiting, or even plaster torn from the walls or ceiling, mixed with milk-and-water. The mixture should be thick, like cream, and a substantial amount should be consumed. Additionally, simple gruel, milk, or thick flour-and-water is very effective and should be given in large quantities. Severe inflammation of the areas touched by the acid is likely to develop soon and should be properly treated by a surgeon; if one isn’t available, use leeches, the fever mixtures (the recipe for which appears repeatedly in previous paragraphs), and thick drinks such as barley-water, gruel, arrowroot, etc., as needed based on the specific symptoms and available resources. The inflamed condition of the back of the mouth needs special attention. If breathing becomes very difficult as a result, apply fifteen to twenty leeches immediately to the outside of the throat, and after they drop off, continue warm poppy compresses on the area. If pain in the stomach is severe, the same local treatment is necessary; however, if it’s only mild, a good mustard poultice will suffice without the leeches. In all these cases, two tablespoonfuls of the fever mixture should be taken every four hours, and only gruel or arrowroot should be consumed for several days.
2650. Nitric Acid, commonly known as Aqua Fortis, or Red Spirit of Nitre (a straw-coloured fluid, of the consistence of water, and which gives off dense white fumes on exposure to the air).—Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it. Much the same as in the case of sulphuric acid. In this case, however, the surface touched by the acid becomes yellowish. The tongue is mostly much swollen.—Treatment. The same as for sulphuric acid.
2650. Nitric Acid, often called Aqua Fortis or Red Spirit of Nitre (a straw-colored liquid that has a watery consistency and releases thick white fumes when exposed to air).—Symptoms experienced by those who have ingested it. Very similar to those caused by sulfuric acid. However, in this case, the area affected by the acid turns yellowish. The tongue is usually quite swollen.—Treatment. The same as for sulfuric acid.
2651. Muriatic Acid, Spirit of Salt (a thin yellow fluid, emitting dense white fumes on exposure to the air).—This is not often taken as a poison. The symptoms and treatment are much the same as those of nitric acid.
2651. Muriatic Acid, Spirit of Salt (a thin yellow liquid that gives off thick white fumes when it comes into contact with air).—This is not usually considered a poison. The symptoms and treatment are very similar to those of nitric acid.
N.B.—In no case of poisoning by these three acids should emetics ever be given.
N.B.—In no case of poisoning by these three acids should you ever give emetics.
2652. Oxalic Acid, commonly called Salt of Lemons.—This poison may be taken by mistake for Epsom salts, which it is a good deal like. It may be distinguished from them by its very acid taste and its shape, which is that of needle-formed crystals, each of which, if put into a drop of ink, will turn it to a reddish brown, whereas Epsom salts will not change its colour at all. When a large dose of this poison has been taken, death takes place very quickly indeed.—Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it. A hot, burning, acid taste is felt in the act of swallowing, and vomiting of a greenish-brown fluid is produced, sooner or later, according to the quantity and strength of the poison taken. There is great tenderness felt over the stomach, followed by clammy perspirations and convulsions; the legs are often drawn up, and there is generally stupor, from which the patient, however, can easily be roused, and always great prostration of strength. The pulse is small and weak, and the breathing faint.—Treatment. Chalk or magnesia, made into a cream with water, should be given in large quantities, and afterwards the emetic draught above prescribed, or some mustard-and-water, if the draught cannot be got. The back part of the throat to be tickled with a feather, to induce vomiting. Arrowroot, gruel, and the like drinks, are to be taken. When the prostration of strength is very great and the body cold, warmth is to be applied to it, and a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water, given.
2652. Oxalic Acid, commonly known as Salt of Lemons.—This poison can easily be mistaken for Epsom salts, as they look quite similar. You can tell them apart by the very acidic taste and the needle-shaped crystals of oxalic acid. If you put one of these crystals in a drop of ink, it will turn a reddish-brown color, while Epsom salts won’t change the ink at all. When a large amount of this poison is consumed, death can occur very quickly.—Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it. A hot, burning acidic taste is felt while swallowing, and vomiting a greenish-brown fluid may occur either sooner or later, depending on the amount and strength of the poison ingested. There is significant tenderness in the stomach, followed by clammy sweats and convulsions; the legs are often pulled up, and there is usually stupor, although the patient can be easily awakened. There’s always a significant loss of strength. The pulse is weak and faint, and breathing is shallow.—Treatment. Large amounts of chalk or magnesia mixed with water to form a cream should be given, followed by the emetic solution mentioned above, or some mustard-water if the solution is not available. Use a feather to tickle the back of the throat to induce vomiting. Light drinks like arrowroot and gruel should be consumed. If strength is very severely diminished and the body is cold, warmth should be applied, and a little brandy mixed with water, or sal volatile mixed with water, should be given.
2653. Prussic Acid (a thin, transparent, and colourless liquid, with a peculiar smell, which greatly resembles that of bitter almonds).—Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it. These come on immediately after the poison has been taken, and may be produced by merely smelling it. The patient becomes perfectly insensible, and falls down in convulsions—his eyes are fixed and staring, the pupils being bigger than natural, the skin is cold and clammy, the pulse scarcely perceptible, and the breathing slow and gasping.—Treatment. Very little can be done in these cases, as death takes place so quickly after the poison has been swallowed, when it takes place at all. The best treatment—which should always be adopted in all cases, even though the patient appears quite dead-is to dash quantities of cold water on the back, from the top of the neck downwards. Placing the patient under a pump, and pumping on him, is the best way of doing this. Smelling-salts are also to be applied to the nose, and the chest well rubbed with a camphor liniment.
2653. Prussic Acid (a thin, clear, colorless liquid with a distinct smell that strongly resembles bitter almonds).—Symptoms observed in those who have ingested it. These appear immediately after the poison has been swallowed, and can even occur from merely smelling it. The person becomes completely unresponsive, collapsing into convulsions—eyes fixed and wide open, pupils larger than normal, skin cold and clammy, pulse barely detectable, and breathing slow and labored.—Treatment. There isn’t much that can be done in these cases, as death can happen very quickly after swallowing the poison. The best treatment—which should always be used in all situations, even if the patient seems completely dead—is to splash cold water on the back from the neck down. Placing the patient under a pump and pumping water on them is an effective method. Smelling salts should also be applied to the nose, and the chest should be thoroughly rubbed with a camphor ointment.
2654. ALKALIS: Potash, Soda, and Ammonia, or common Smelling-Salts, with their principal preparations—Pearlash, Soap Lees, Liquor Potassae, Nitre, Sal Prunella, Hartshorn, and Sal—Volatile.—Alkalis are seldom taken or given with the view of destroying life. They may, however, be swallowed by mistake.—Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed them. There is at first a burning, acrid taste in, and a sensation of tightness round, the throat, like that of strangling; the skin touched is destroyed; retching mostly followed by actual vomiting, then sets in; the vomited matters often containing blood of a dark brown colour, with little shreds of flesh here and there, and always changing vegetable blue colours green. There is now great tenderness over the whole of the belly. After a little while, great weakness, with cold, clammy sweats, a quick weak pulse, and purging of bloody matters, takes place. The brain, too, mostly becomes affected.—Treatment. Give two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon-juice in a glassful of water every few minutes until the burning sensation is relieved. Any kind of oil or milk may also be given, and will form soap when mixed with the poison in the stomach. Barley-water, gruel, arrowroot, linseed-tea, &c., are also very useful, and should be taken constantly, and in large quantities. If inflammation should take place, it is to be treated by applying leeches and warm poppy fomentations to the part where the pain is most felt, and giving two tablespoonfuls of the fever mixture every four hours. The diet in all these cases should only consist of arrowroot or gruel for the first few days, and then of weak broth or beef-tea for some time after.
2654. ALKALIS: Potash, Soda, and Ammonia, or common Smelling-Salts, along with their main preparations—Pearlash, Soap Lees, Liquor Potassae, Nitre, Sal Prunella, Hartshorn, and Sal—Volatile.—Alkalis are rarely ingested or administered with the intent to harm. However, they can be accidentally swallowed. Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed them. Initially, there is a burning, acrid taste and a sensation of tightness around the throat, similar to choking; any skin contacted is damaged; retching usually followed by vomiting occurs; the vomited matter often contains dark brown blood and small pieces of flesh, and always changes blue plant colors to green. There’s significant tenderness across the entire abdomen. After some time, severe weakness sets in, accompanied by cold, clammy sweats, a rapid weak pulse, and the passage of bloody stool. The brain is often affected too. Treatment. Administer two tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice mixed in a glass of water every few minutes until the burning sensation eases. Any type of oil or milk can also be given, as they will create soap when mixed with the poison in the stomach. Barley water, gruel, arrowroot, linseed tea, etc., are also very beneficial and should be consumed regularly in large amounts. If inflammation occurs, treat it by applying leeches and warm poppy poultices to the area of most pain, and administer two tablespoons of the fever mixture every four hours. The diet in all these cases should consist only of arrowroot or gruel for the first few days, followed by weak broth or beef tea for some time afterward.
2655. When very strong fumes of smelling-salts have in any way been inhaled, there is great difficulty of breathing, and alarming pain in the mouth and nostrils. In this case let the patient inhale the steam of warm vinegar, and treat the feverish symptoms as before.
2655. When very strong fumes of smelling salts have been inhaled, it can cause severe difficulty in breathing and intense pain in the mouth and nostrils. In this case, have the patient inhale the steam of warm vinegar and treat the feverish symptoms as before.
2656. Arsenic.—Mostly seen under the form of white arsenic, or fly-powder, and yellow arsenic, or king's yellow.—Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it. These vary very much, according to the form and dose in which the poison has been taken. There is faintness, depression, and sickness, with an intense burning pain in the region of the stomach, which gets worse and worse, and is increased by pressure. There is also vomiting of dark brown matter, sometimes mixed with blood; and mostly great thirst, with a feeling of tightness round, and of burning in, the throat. Purging also takes place, the matters brought away being mixed with blood. The pulse is small and irregular, and the skin sometimes cold and clammy, and at others hot. The breathing is painful. Convulsions and spasms often occur.—Treatment. Give a couple of teaspoonfuls of mustard in a glass of water, to bring on or assist vomiting, and also use the other means elsewhere recommended for the purpose. A solution, half of lime-water and half of linseed-oil, well mixed, may be given, as well as plenty of arrowroot, gruel, or linseed-tea. Simple milk is also useful. A little castor-oil should be given, to cleanse the intestines of all the poison, and the after-symptoms treated on general principles.
2656. Arsenic.—Typically found as white arsenic, or fly powder, and yellow arsenic, or king's yellow.—Symptoms in those who have swallowed it. These can vary significantly depending on the form and amount of poison ingested. Common symptoms include lightheadedness, depression, nausea, and a severe burning pain in the stomach that worsens with time and pressure. Vomiting may occur, often resulting in dark brown material mixed with blood; there is usually significant thirst and a sensation of tightness and burning in the throat. Diarrhea can also happen, with blood present in the stool. The pulse may be small and irregular, and the skin can be cold and clammy at times, while at others, it feels hot. Breathing may become painful, and convulsions and spasms are frequent.—Treatment. Administer a couple of teaspoons of mustard in a glass of water to induce vomiting, along with other recommended methods. A well-mixed solution of half lime-water and half linseed oil can be given, along with plenty of arrowroot, gruel, or linseed tea. Simple milk is also beneficial. A small amount of castor oil should be given to help clear the intestines of the poison, and any subsequent symptoms should be treated with standard care.
2657. Corrosive Sublimate.—Mostly seen in the form of little heavy crystalline masses, which melt in water, and have a metallic taste. It is sometimes seen in powder. This is a most powerful poison.—Symptoms. These mostly come on immediately after the poison has been taken. There is a coppery taste experienced in the act of swallowing, with a burning heat, extending from the top of the throat down to the stomach; and also a feeling of great tightness round the throat. In a few minutes great pain is felt over the region of the stomach, and frequent vomiting of long, stringy white masses, mixed with blood, takes place. There is also mostly great purging. The countenance is generally pale and anxious; the pulse always small and frequent; the skin cold and clammy, and the breathing difficult. Convulsions and insensibility often occur, and are very bad symptoms indeed. The inside of the mouth is more or less swollen.—Treatment. Mix the whites of a dozen eggs in two pints of cold water, and give a glassful of the mixture every three or four minutes, until the stomach can contain no more. If vomiting does not now come on naturally, and supposing the mouth is not very sore or much swollen, an emetic draught, No. 1, may be given, and vomiting induced. (The No. 1 draught, we remind our readers, is thus made:—Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half of water; the draught to be repeated if vomiting does not take place in a quarter of an hour.) After the stomach has been well cleaned out, milk, flour-and-water, linseed-tea, or barley-water, should be taken in large quantities. If eggs cannot be obtained, milk, or flour-and-water, should be given as a substitute for them at once. When the depression of strength is very great indeed, a little warm brandy-and-water must be given. In the course of an hour or two the patient should take two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and if inflammation comes on, it is to be treated as directed in the article on acids and alkalis. The diet should also be the same. If the patient recovers, great soreness of the gums is almost certain to take place. The simplest, and at the same time one of the best modes of treatment, is to wash them well three or four times a day with brandy-and-water.
2657. Corrosive Sublimate.—This usually appears as small, heavy crystalline chunks that dissolve in water and have a metallic taste. It can sometimes be found in powdered form. This is an extremely potent poison.—Symptoms. Symptoms typically emerge right after ingestion. A coppery taste is felt when swallowing, accompanied by a burning sensation that extends from the throat to the stomach, along with a tight feeling around the throat. Within minutes, intense pain occurs in the stomach area, followed by frequent vomiting of long, stringy white substances mixed with blood. There is also usually significant diarrhea. The face often looks pale and anxious; the pulse is generally weak and rapid; the skin feels cold and clammy, and breathing becomes difficult. Convulsions and loss of consciousness may also occur, indicating serious complications. The inside of the mouth may be swollen to some extent.—Treatment. Combine the whites of twelve eggs with two pints of cold water, and give a glass of this mixture every three to four minutes until the stomach is full. If vomiting doesn’t occur naturally, and if the mouth isn't too sore or swollen, an emetic draught, No. 1, can be administered to induce vomiting. (The No. 1 draught is prepared as follows:—Twenty grains of sulfate of zinc in one and a half ounces of water; repeat the draught if vomiting doesn’t happen within fifteen minutes.) After the stomach has been thoroughly cleared, the patient should drink large amounts of milk, flour-and-water, linseed tea, or barley water. If eggs aren’t available, milk or flour-and-water should be given immediately as a substitute. If there is significant weakness, a small amount of warm brandy-and-water can be administered. After an hour or two, the patient should take two tablespoons of castor oil, and if inflammation occurs, it should be treated as described in the section on acids and alkalis. The diet should also follow the same guidelines. If the patient recovers, they will likely experience considerable soreness of the gums. One of the simplest and most effective ways to treat this is to rinse the gums three to four times a day with brandy-and-water.
2658. Calomel.—A heavy white powder, without taste, and insoluble in water. It has been occasionally known to destroy life.—Symptoms. Much the same as in the case of corrosive sublimate.—Treatment. The same as for corrosive sublimate. If the gums are sore, wash them, as recommended in the case of corrosive sublimate, with brandy-and-water three or four times a day, and keep the patient on fluids, such as arrowroot, gruel, broth, or beef-tea, according to the other symptoms. Eating hard substances would make the gums more sore and tender.
2658. Calomel.—A heavy white powder that has no taste and doesn’t dissolve in water. It has been known to be fatal on some occasions.—Symptoms. Similar to those of corrosive sublimate.—Treatment. The same as for corrosive sublimate. If the gums are sore, rinse them with a mix of brandy and water three or four times a day, as recommended for corrosive sublimate, and keep the patient on fluids like arrowroot, gruel, broth, or beef tea, depending on other symptoms. Eating solid food would make the gums even more sore and sensitive.
2659. Copper.—The preparations of this metal which are most likely to be the ones producing poisonous symptoms, are blue-stone and verdigris. People are often taken ill after eating food that has been cooked in copper saucepans. When anything has been cooked in one of these vessels, it should never be allowed to cool in it.—Symptoms. Headache, pain in the stomach, and purging; vomiting of green or blue matters, convulsions, and spasms.—Treatment. Give whites of eggs, sugar-and-water, castor-oil, and drinks, such as arrowroot and gruel.
2659. Copper.—The forms of this metal that are most likely to cause poisoning symptoms are blue-stone and verdigris. People often get sick after eating food cooked in copper pans. Once something has been cooked in one of these pots, it should never be allowed to cool in it.—Symptoms. Headache, stomach pain, diarrhea; vomiting green or blue substances, convulsions, and spasms.—Treatment. Administer egg whites, sugar water, castor oil, and drinks like arrowroot and gruel.
2660. Emetic Tartar.—Seen in the form of a white powder, or crystals, with a slightly metallic taste. It has not often been known to destroy life.—Symptoms. A strong metallic taste in the act of swallowing, followed by a burning pain in the region of the stomach, vomiting, and great purging. The pulse is small and rapid, the skin cold and clammy, the breathing difficult and painful, and the limbs often much cramped. There is also great prostration of strength.—Treatment. Promote the vomiting by giving plenty of warm water, or warm arrowroot and water. Strong tea, in large quantities, should be drunk; or, if it can be obtained, a decoction of oak bark. The after-treatment is the same as that for acids and alkalis; the principal object in all these cases being to keep down the inflammation of the parts touched by the poison by means of leeches, warm poppy fomentations, fever-mixtures, and very low diet.
2660. Emetic Tartar.—Appears as a white powder or crystals with a slightly metallic taste. It's not often fatal.—Symptoms. A strong metallic taste when swallowing, followed by a burning pain in the stomach area, vomiting, and severe diarrhea. The pulse is weak and fast, the skin is cold and clammy, breathing is hard and painful, and the limbs are often very cramped. There is also significant weakness.—Treatment. Encourage vomiting by giving plenty of warm water or a mixture of warm arrowroot and water. Drink large amounts of strong tea, or if available, a decoction of oak bark. The aftercare is the same as for acids and alkalis; the main goal in all these cases is to reduce inflammation in the areas affected by the poison using leeches, warm poppy poultices, fever mixtures, and a very low diet.
2661. Lead, and its preparations, Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract, White Lead.—Lead is by no means an active poison, although it is popularly considered to be so. It mostly affects people by being taken into the system slowly, as in the case of painters and glaziers. A newly-painted house, too, often affects those living in it.—Symptoms produced when taken in a large dose. There is at first a burning, pricking sensation in the throat, to which thirst, giddiness, and vomiting follow. The belly is tight, swollen, and painful; the pain being relieved by pressure. The bowels are mostly bound. There is great depression of strength, and a cold skin.—Treatment. Give an emetic draught (No. 1, see above) at once, and shortly afterwards a solution of Epsom salts in large quantities. A little brandy-and-water must be taken if the depression of strength is very great indeed. Milk, whites of eggs, and arrowroot are also useful. After two or three hours, cleanse the stomach and intestines well out with two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and treat the symptoms which follow according to the rules laid down in other parts of these articles.—Symptoms when it is taken into the body slowly. Headache, pain about the navel, loss of appetite and flesh, offensive breath, a blueness of the edges of the gums; the belly is tight, hard, and knotty, and the pulse slow and languid. There is also sometimes a difficulty in swallowing.—Treatment. Give five grains of calomel and half a grain of opium directly, in the form of a pill, and half an ounce of Epsom salts in two hours, and repeat this treatment until the bowels are well opened. Put the patient into a warm bath, and throw up a clyster of warmish water when he is in it. Fomentations of warm oil of turpentine, if they can be obtained, should be put over the whole of the belly. The great object is to open the bowels as freely and as quickly as possible. When this has been done, a grain of pure opium may be given. Arrowroot or gruel should be taken in good large quantities. The after-treatment must depend altogether upon the symptoms of each particular case.
2661. Lead, along with its preparations, Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract, White Lead.—Lead is not really an active poison, even though many people think it is. It tends to affect individuals when it builds up in the body over time, such as with painters and glaziers. Living in a freshly painted house can also impact residents. —Symptoms from a large dose. Initially, there’s a burning, prickling feeling in the throat, followed by thirst, dizziness, and vomiting. The stomach feels tight, swollen, and painful; pressure helps relieve the pain. The bowels are usually constipated. There's significant weakness, and the skin feels cold. —Treatment. Administer an emetic drink (No. 1, see above) immediately, followed shortly by a large amount of Epsom salts solution. If the weakness is very severe, a little brandy-and-water should be consumed. Milk, egg whites, and arrowroot can also help. After two or three hours, cleanse the stomach and intestines thoroughly with two tablespoons of castor oil, and treat the subsequent symptoms according to the guidelines outlined in other sections of these articles. —Symptoms from slow exposure. Headache, abdominal pain, loss of appetite and weight, bad breath, a bluish tint at the edges of the gums; the abdomen feels tight, hard, and lumpy, and the pulse is slow and faint. There can also be issues with swallowing. —Treatment. Administer five grains of calomel and half a grain of opium immediately in pill form, followed by half an ounce of Epsom salts in two hours, repeating this until the bowels are well emptied. Place the patient in a warm bath and give a warm water enema while they're in it. If available, apply warm turpentine oil fomentations over the entire abdomen. The main goal is to open the bowels as freely and quickly as possible. Once this is accomplished, give a grain of pure opium. The patient should consume large quantities of arrowroot or gruel. Aftercare will depend entirely on the specific symptoms in each case.
2662. Opium, and its preparations, Laudanum, &c.—Solid opium is mostly seen in the form of rich brown flattish cakes, with little pieces of leaves sticking on them here and there, and a bitter and slightly warm taste. The most common form in which it is taken as a poison, is that of laudanum.—Symptoms. These consist at first in giddiness and stupor, followed by insensibility, the patient, however, being roused to consciousness by a great noise, so as to be able to answer a question, but becoming insensible again almost immediately. The pulse is now quick and small, the breathing hurried, and the skin warm and covered with perspiration. After a little time, these symptoms change; the person becomes perfectly insensible, the breathing slow and snoring, as in apoplexy, the skin cold, and the pulse slow and full. The pupil of the eye is mostly smaller than natural. On applying his nose to the patient's mouth, a person may smell the poison very distinctly.—Treatment. Give an emetic draught (No. 1, see above) directly, with large quantities of warm mustard-and-water, warm salt-and-water, or simple warm water. Tickle the top of the throat with a feather, or put two fingers down it to bring on vomiting, which rarely takes place of itself. Dash cold water on the head, chest, and spine, and flap these parts well with the ends of wet towels. Give strong coffee or tea. Walk the patient up and down in the open air for two or three hours; the great thing being to keep him from sleeping. Electricity is of much service. When the patient is recovering, mustard poultices should be applied to the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs. The head should be kept cool and raised.
2662. Opium and its preparations, Laudanum, etc. — Solid opium usually appears as rich brown flat cakes, with bits of leaves stuck to them here and there, and has a bitter and slightly warm taste. The most common way it's ingested as a poison is in the form of laudanum. — Symptoms. Initially, these symptoms include dizziness and stupor, followed by unconsciousness, although the patient can be roused by loud noises enough to respond to a question, but then falls back into insensibility almost immediately. The pulse is now rapid and weak, breathing is fast, and the skin is warm and sweaty. After some time, these symptoms evolve; the person becomes completely unresponsive, breathing slowly and snoring, resembling apoplexy, with cold skin and a slow, strong pulse. The pupils are usually smaller than normal. By putting their nose to the patient's mouth, someone can distinctly smell the poison. — Treatment. Administer an emetic mixture (No. 1, see above) immediately, along with large amounts of warm mustard-and-water, warm salt-and-water, or plain warm water. Stimulate the back of the throat with a feather or use two fingers to induce vomiting, which rarely happens on its own. Splash cold water on the head, chest, and spine, and vigorously pat these areas with wet towel ends. Offer strong coffee or tea. Have the patient walk around outside for two or three hours; the primary goal is to prevent them from sleeping. Electricity can be very helpful. As the patient begins to recover, apply mustard poultices to the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs. Keep the head cool and elevated.
2663. The following preparations, which are constantly given to children by their nurses and mothers, for the purpose of making them sleep, often prove fatal:—Syrup of Poppies, and Godfrey's Cordial. The author would most earnestly urge all people caring for their children's lives, never to allow any of these preparations to be given, unless ordered by a surgeon.
2663. The following remedies, which are frequently given to children by their caregivers and mothers to help them sleep, can often be deadly: Syrup of Poppies and Godfrey's Cordial. The author strongly advises anyone who cares about their children's lives to never allow these preparations to be given unless directed by a surgeon.
2664. The treatment in the case of poisoning by Henbane, Hemlock, Nightshade, and Foxglove, is much the same as that for opium. Vomiting should be brought on in all of them.
2664. The treatment for poisoning by Henbane, Hemlock, Nightshade, and Foxglove is basically the same as that for opium. Inducing vomiting should be done for all of them.
2665. Poisonous Food.—It sometimes happens that things which are in daily use, and mostly perfectly harmless, give rise, under certain unknown circumstances, and in certain individuals, to the symptoms of poisoning. The most common articles of food of this description are Mussels, Salmon, and certain kinds of Cheese and Bacon. The general symptoms are thirst, weight about the stomach, difficulty of breathing, vomiting, purging, spasms, prostration of strength, and, in the case of mussels more particularly, an eruption on the body, like that of nettle-rash.—Treatment. Empty the stomach well with No. 1 draught and warm water, and give two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil immediately after. Let the patient take plenty of arrowroot, gruel, and the like drinks, and if there is much depression of strength, give a little warm brandy-and-water. Should symptoms of fever or inflammation follow, they must be treated as directed in the articles on other kinds of poisoning.
2665. Poisonous Food.—Sometimes, everyday items that are generally safe can cause poisoning symptoms in certain individuals under unknown circumstances. The most common foods that can do this include Mussels, Salmon, and certain types of Cheese and Bacon. Typical symptoms include thirst, a heavy feeling in the stomach, difficulty breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, spasms, weakness, and, specifically for mussels, a rash similar to hives. —Treatment. Thoroughly empty the stomach using No. 1 draught and warm water, then give two tablespoons of castor oil right after. The patient should consume plenty of arrowroot, gruel, and similar drinks, and if there’s significant weakness, provide a little warm brandy-and-water. If symptoms of fever or inflammation appear, treat them as instructed for other types of poisoning.
2666. Mushrooms, and similar kinds of vegetables, often produce poisonous effects. The symptoms are various, sometimes giddiness and stupor, and at others pain in and swelling of the belly, with vomiting and purging, being the leading ones. When the symptoms come on quickly after taking the poison, it is generally the head that is affected.—The treatment consists in bringing on vomiting in the usual manner, as quickly and as freely as possible. The other symptoms are to be treated on general principles; if they are those of depression, by brandy-and-water or sal-volatile; if those of inflammation, by leeches, fomentations, fever-mixtures, &c. &c.
2666. Mushrooms and similar types of vegetables can often be toxic. The symptoms vary; sometimes they include dizziness and confusion, and at other times abdominal pain and swelling, along with vomiting and diarrhea being the most common. When symptoms appear quickly after consuming the poison, the head is usually the most affected. — The treatment involves inducing vomiting in the usual way, as quickly and thoroughly as possible. The other symptoms should be treated based on general principles; if they indicate depression, use brandy-and-water or sal volatile; if they show signs of inflammation, use leeches, warm compresses, fever mixtures, etc.
2667. FOR CURE OF RINGWORM.—Take of subcarbonate of soda 1 drachm, which dissolve in 1/2 pint of vinegar. Wash the head every morning with soft soap, and apply the lotion night and morning. One teaspoonful of sulphur and treacle should also be given occasionally night and morning. The hair should be cut close, and round the spot it should be shaved off, and the part, night and morning, bathed with a lotion made by dissolving a drachm of white vitriol in 8 oz. of water. A small piece of either of the two subjoined ointments rubbed into the part when the lotion has dried in. No, 1.—Take of citron ointment 1 drachm; sulphur and tar ointment, of each 1/2 oz.: mix thoroughly, and apply twice a day. No. 2.—Take of simple cerate 1 oz.; creosote 1 drachm; calomel 30 grains: mix and use in the same manner as the first. Concurrent with these external remedies, the child should take an alterative powder every morning, or, if they act too much on the bowels, only every second day. The following will be found to answer all the intentions desired.
2667. FOR CURE OF RINGWORM.—Mix 1 drachm of baking soda in 1/2 pint of vinegar. Wash the scalp every morning with gentle soap and apply the solution twice a day—morning and night. Give the child one teaspoonful of sulphur and treacle occasionally in the morning and evening. Hair should be cut short, and the area around the infected spot should be shaved. Bathe the affected area morning and night with a solution made by dissolving 1 drachm of white vitriol in 8 oz. of water. After the lotion has dried, rub in a small amount of one of the following ointments: No. 1.—Mix 1 drachm of citron ointment with 1/2 oz. of sulphur ointment and 1/2 oz. of tar ointment; apply twice a day. No. 2.—Mix 1 oz. of simple cerate with 1 drachm of creosote and 30 grains of calomel; use the same way as the first ointment. Along with these external treatments, the child should take a cleansing powder every morning, or every second day if it causes too much bowel movement. The following remedy will serve all the intended purposes.
2668. Alterative Powders for Ringworm.—Take of
2668. Alterative Powders for Ringworm.—Take of
Sulphuret of antimony, precipitated . 24 grains.
Grey powder . . . . . 12 grains.
Calomel . . . . . . 6 grains.
Jalap powder . . . . . 36 grains.
Sulfur antimony, precipitated . 24 grains.
Grey powder . . . . . 12 grains.
Calomel . . . . . . 6 grains.
Jalap powder . . . . . 36 grains.
Mix carefully, and divide into 12 powders for a child from 1 to 2 years old; into 9 powders for a child from 2 to 4 years; and into 6 powders for a child from 4 to 6 years. Where the patient is older, the strength may be increased by enlarging the quantities of the drugs ordered, or by giving one and a half or two powders for one dose. The ointment is to be well washed off every morning with soap-and-water, and the part bathed with the lotion before re-applying the ointment. An imperative fact must be remembered by mother or nurse,—never to use the same comb employed for the child with ringworm, for the healthy children, or let the affected little one sleep with those free from the disease; and, for fear of any contact by hands or otherwise, to keep the child's head enveloped in a nightcap, till this eruption is completely cured.
Mix carefully and divide into 12 doses for a child aged 1 to 2 years; into 9 doses for a child aged 2 to 4 years; and into 6 doses for a child aged 4 to 6 years. For older patients, the strength can be increased by adjusting the drug quantities or by giving one and a half or two doses at a time. The ointment should be thoroughly washed off every morning with soap and water, and the area should be treated with lotion before reapplying the ointment. One important thing to remember for mothers or caregivers is to never use the same comb for a child with ringworm on healthy children, and do not let the affected child sleep next to those who are healthy. To prevent any contact, keep the child's head covered with a nightcap until the rash is completely healed.
2669. SCRATCHES.—Trifling as scratches often seem, they ought never to be neglected, but should be covered and protected, and kept clean and dry until they have completely healed. If there is the least appearance of inflammation, no time should be lost in applying a large bread-and-water poultice, or hot flannels repeatedly applied, or even leeches in good numbers may be put on at some distance from each other.
2669. SCRATCHES.—Although scratches may seem minor, they should never be ignored. They need to be covered and protected, and kept clean and dry until they are fully healed. If there are any signs of inflammation, you should promptly apply a large bread-and-water poultice, or use hot flannels repeatedly, or even apply several leeches spaced apart.
2670. FOR SHORTNESS OF BREATH, OR DIFFICULT BREATHING.—Vitriolated spirits of ether 1 oz., camphor 12 grains: make a solution, of which take a teaspoonful during the paroxysm. This is found to afford instantaneous relief in difficulty of breathing, depending on internal diseases and other causes, where the patient, from a very quick and laborious breathing, is obliged to be in an erect posture.
2670. FOR SHORTNESS OF BREATH, OR DIFFICULT BREATHING.—1 oz. of ether spirits, with 12 grains of camphor: mix to create a solution, and take a teaspoonful during an episode. This is known to provide immediate relief for breathing difficulties caused by internal diseases and other reasons, especially when the patient needs to sit up due to rapid and strenuous breathing.
2671. SPRAINS.—A sprain is a stretching of the leaders or ligaments of a part through some violence, such as slipping, falling on the hands, pulling a limb, &c. &c. The most common are those of the ankle and wrist. These accidents are more serious than people generally suppose, and often more difficult to cure than a broken log or arm. The first thing to be done is to place the sprained part in the straight position, and to raise it a little as well. Some recommend the application of cold lotions at first. The editress, however, is quite convinced that warm applications are, in most cases, the best for for the first three or four days. These fomentations are to be applied in the following manner:—Dip a good-sized piece of flannel into a pail or basin full of hot water or hot poppy fomentation,—six poppy heads boiled in one quart of water for about a quarter of an hour; wring it almost dry, and apply it, as hot as the patient can bear, right round the sprained part. Then place another piece of flannel, quite dry, over it, in order that the steam and warmth may not escape. This process should be repeated as often as the patient feels that the flannel next to his skin is getting cold—the oftener the better. The bowels should be opened with a black draught, and the patient kept on low diet. If he has been a great drinker, he may be allowed to take a little beer; but it is better not to do so. A little of the cream of tartar drink, ordered in the case of burns, may be taken occasionally if there is much thirst. When the swelling and tenderness about the joint are very great, from eight to twelve leeches may be applied. When the knee is the joint affected, the greatest pain is felt at the inside, and therefore the greater quantity of the leeches should be applied to that part. When the shoulder is sprained, the arm should be kept close to the body by means of a linen roller, which is to be taken four or five times round the whole of the chest. It should also be brought two or three times underneath the elbow, in order to raise the shoulder. This is the best treatment for these accidents during the first three or four days. After that time, supposing that no unfavourable symptoms have taken place, a cold lotion, composed of a tablespoonful of sal-ammoniac to a quart of water, or vinegar-and-water, should be constantly applied. This lotion will strengthen the part, and also help in taking away any thickening that may have formed about the joint. In the course of two or three weeks, according to circumstances, the joint is to be rubbed twice a day with flannel dipped in opodeldoc, a flannel bandage rolled tightly round the joint, the pressure being greatest at the lowest part, and the patient allowed to walk about with the assistance of a crutch or stick. He should also occasionally, when sitting or lying down, quietly bend the joint backwards and forwards, to cause its natural motion to return, and to prevent stiffness from taking place. When the swelling is very great immediately after the accident has occurred, from the breaking of the blood-vessels, it is best to apply cold applications at first. If it can be procured, oil-silk may be put over the warm-fomentation flannel, instead of the dry piece of flannel. Old flannel is better than new.
2671. SPRAINS.—A sprain is when the tendons or ligaments of a body part stretch due to some kind of injury, like slipping, falling on your hands, or pulling a limb. The most common sprains are in the ankle and wrist. These injuries are often more serious than people think and can be harder to treat than a broken leg or arm. The first thing to do is to keep the sprained part straight and elevated a little. Some people recommend using cold compresses at first. However, the editor believes warm compresses are usually better for the first three or four days. To apply these warm compresses, dip a good-sized piece of flannel in a bowl of hot water or hot poppy compress (made by boiling six poppy heads in one quart of water for about fifteen minutes), wring it out almost dry, and place it as hot as the patient can tolerate around the sprained area. Then, cover it with another dry piece of flannel to keep the steam and heat in. This should be repeated as often as the flannel next to the skin feels cold—the more frequently, the better. The patient should take a laxative, and maintain a light diet. If they are a heavy drinker, a little beer may be allowed, but it’s better to avoid it. A bit of cream of tartar drink, as recommended for burns, can be taken occasionally for thirst. If there’s significant swelling and tenderness around the joint, applying eight to twelve leeches may help. If the knee is injured, most of the leeches should be applied to the inside, where the pain is most intense. For a shoulder sprain, the arm should be kept close to the body with a linen roller wrapped around the chest four or five times, and brought under the elbow a few times to elevate the shoulder. This is the best approach for these injuries during the first three or four days. After that period, assuming there are no worsening symptoms, a cold compress made of a tablespoon of sal-ammoniac in a quart of water, or vinegar and water, should be applied consistently. This compress will strengthen the area and help reduce any swelling around the joint. Over the course of two to three weeks, depending on the situation, the joint should be gently rubbed twice a day with flannel dipped in opodeldoc, and a tight flannel bandage wrapped around the joint, with the pressure greatest at the bottom. The patient should be allowed to walk with a crutch or stick and, when sitting or lying down, should gently bend the joint back and forth to restore its natural motion and prevent stiffness. If swelling is significant right after the injury due to broken blood vessels, cold compresses are the best initial treatment. If available, oil-silk can be placed over the warm flannel instead of using a dry piece. Used flannel is better than new.
2672. CURE FOR STAMMERING.—Where there is no malformation of the organs of articulation, stammering may be remedied by reading aloud with the teeth closed. This should be practised for two hours a day, for three or four months. The advocate of this simple remedy says, "I can speak with certainty of its utility."
2672. CURE FOR STAMMERING.—If there are no physical issues with the speech organs, stammering can be improved by reading aloud with your teeth closed. This should be practiced for two hours a day, for three or four months. The supporter of this straightforward solution claims, "I can confidently say it works."
2673. STAMMERING.—At a recent meeting of the Boston Society of Natural History, Dr. Warren stated, "A simple, easy, and effectual cure of stammering." It is, simply, at every syllable pronounced, to tap at the same time with the finger; by so doing, "the most inveterate stammerer will be surprised to find that he can pronounce quite fluently, and, by long and constant practice, he will pronounce perfectly well."
2673. STAMMERING.—At a recent meeting of the Boston Society of Natural History, Dr. Warren stated, "A simple, easy, and effective cure for stammering." It is, simply, for every syllable spoken, to tap at the same time with your finger; by doing this, "even the most stubborn stammerer will be surprised to find that they can speak quite fluently, and with long and consistent practice, they will speak perfectly well."
2674. SUFFOCATION, APPARENT.—Suffocation may arise from many different causes. Anything which prevents the air getting into the lungs will produce it. We shall give the principal causes, and the treatment to be followed in each case.
2674. APPARENT SUFFOCATION.—Suffocation can happen for various reasons. Anything that stops air from reaching the lungs can cause it. We will list the main causes and the treatment to be followed for each situation.
2675. 1. Carbonic Acid Gas. Choke-Damp of Mines.—This poisonous gas is met with in rooms where charcoal is burnt, and where there is not sufficient draught to allow it to escape; in coalpits, near limekilns, in breweries, and in rooms and houses where a great many people live huddled together in wretchedness and filth, and where the air in consequence becomes poisoned. This gas gives out no smell, so that we cannot know of its presence. A candle will not burn in a room which contains much of it.—Effects. At first there is giddiness, and a great wish to sleep; after a little time, or where there is much of it present, a person feels great weight in the head, and stupid; gets by degrees quite unable to move, and snores as if in a deep sleep. The limbs may or may not be stiff. The heat of the body remains much the same at first.—Treatment. Remove the person affected into the open air, and, even though it is cold weather, take off his clothes. Then lay him on his back, with his head slightly raised. Having done this, dash vinegar-and-water over the whole of the body, and rub it hard, especially the face and chest, with towels dipped in the same mixture. The hands and feet also should be rubbed with a hard brush. Apply smelling-salts to the nose, which may be tickled with a feather. Dashing cold water down the middle of the back is of great service. If the person can swallow, give him a little lemon-water, or vinegar-and-water to drink. The principal means, however, to be employed in this, as, in fact, in most cases of apparent suffocation, is what is called artificial breathing. This operation should be performed by three persons, and in the following manner:—The first person should put the nozzle of a common pair of bellows into one of the patient's nostrils; the second should push down, and then thrust back, that part of the throat called "Adam's apple;" and the third should first raise and then depress the chest, one hand being placed over each side of the ribs. These three actions should be performed in the following order:—First of all, the throat should be drawn down and thrust back; then the chest should be raised, and the bellows gently blown into the nostril. Directly this is done, the chest should be depressed, so as to imitate common breathing. This process should be repeated about eighteen times a minute. The mouth and the other nostril should be closed while the bellows are being blown. Persevere, if necessary, with this treatment for seven or eight hours—in fact, till absolute signs of death are visible. Many lives are lost by giving it up too quickly. When the patient becomes roused, he is to be put into a warm bed, and a little brandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal-volatile, given cautiously now and then. This treatment is to be adopted in all cases where people are affected from breathing bad air, smells, &c. &c.
2675. 1. Carbonic Acid Gas. Choke-Damp of Mines.—This toxic gas is found in places where charcoal is burned and where there isn’t enough airflow for it to escape; in coal mines, near limekilns, in breweries, and in crowded living spaces where many people live in poor conditions, which poisons the air. This gas is odorless, so we can’t detect it. A candle won’t burn in an area with high concentrations of it.—Effects. Initially, there’s dizziness and an overwhelming desire to sleep; after a while, or if the concentration is high, a person experiences heaviness in the head and feels dazed; gradually, they become unable to move and may snore as if in a deep sleep. Their limbs may or may not become stiff. Body temperature remains fairly constant at first.—Treatment. Move the affected person into fresh air, and even if it’s cold, remove their clothes. Lay them on their back with their head slightly elevated. After this, splash vinegar-and-water over their entire body and rub it vigorously, especially on the face and chest, using towels soaked in the same solution. The hands and feet should also be rubbed with a stiff brush. Apply smelling salts to the nose, which can be stimulated with a feather. Splashing cold water down the center of the back is very helpful. If the person can swallow, give them some lemon water or vinegar-and-water to drink. The main technique to use in this, and in most cases of suspected suffocation, is what’s called artificial breathing. This should be done by three people as follows:—The first person should place the nozzle of a standard pair of bellows into one nostril of the patient; the second should push down and then pull back a specific part of the throat known as the "Adam's apple;" and the third should raise and then lower the chest, with one hand over each side of the ribs. These three actions should be performed in this order:—First, the throat should be pushed down and pulled back; then the chest should be raised, and the bellows gently blown into the nostril. As soon as that is done, the chest should be depressed to mimic normal breathing. This process should be repeated about eighteen times a minute. The mouth and the other nostril should be closed while the bellows are being operated. Continue this treatment for seven or eight hours if necessary—in fact, until there are definite signs of death. Many lives are lost because this treatment is stopped too soon. When the patient starts to revive, they should be placed in a warm bed, and a little brandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal volatile, should be given cautiously from time to time. This treatment should be used in all situations where people are affected by breathing contaminated air, odors, etc.
2676. 2. Drowning.—This is one of the most frequent causes of death by suffocation.—Treatment. Many methods have been adopted, and as some of them are not only useless, but hurtful, we will mention them here, merely in order that they may be avoided. In the first place, then, never hang a person up by his heels, as it is an error to suppose that water gets into the lungs. Hanging a person up by his heels would be quite as bad as hanging him up by his neck. It is also a mistake to suppose that rubbing the body with salt and water is of service.—Proper Treatment. Directly a person has been taken out of the water, he should be wiped dry and wrapped in blankets; but if these cannot be obtained, the clothes of the bystanders must be used for the purpose. His head being slightly raised, and any water, weeds, or froth that may happen to be in his mouth, having been removed, he should be carried as quickly as possible to the nearest house. He should now be put into a warm bath, about as hot as the hand can pleasantly bear, and kept there for about ten minutes, artificial breathing being had recourse to while he is in it. Having been taken out of the bath, he should be placed flat on his back, with his head slightly raised, upon a warm bed in a warm room, wiped perfectly dry, and then rubbed constantly all over the body with warm flannels. At the same time, mustard poultices should be put to the soles of the feet, the palms of the hands, and the inner surface of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks, or bottles filled with warm water, should be placed under the armpits. The nose should be tickled with a feather, and smelling-salts applied to it. This treatment should be adopted while the bath is being got ready, as well as when the body has been taken out of it. The bath is not absolutely necessary; constantly rubbing the body with flannels in a warm room having been found sufficient for resuscitation. Sir B. Brodie says that warm air is quite as good as warm water. When symptoms of returning consciousness begin to show themselves, give a little wine, brandy, or twenty drops of sal-volatile and water. In some cases it is necessary, in about twelve or twenty-four hours after the patient has revived, to bleed him, for peculiar head-symptoms which now and then occur. Bleeding, however, even in the hands of professional men themselves, should be very cautiously used—non-professional ones should never think of it. The best thing to do in these cases is to keep the head well raised, and cool with a lotion such as that recommended above for sprains; to administer an aperient draught, and to abstain from giving anything that stimulates, such as wine, brandy, sal-volatile, &c. &c. As a general rule, a person dies in three minutes and a half after he has been under water. It is difficult, however, to tell how long he has actually been under it, although we may know well exactly how long he has been in it. This being the case, always persevere in your attempts at resuscitation until actual signs of death have shown themselves, even for six, eight, or ten hours. Dr. Douglas, of Glasgow, resuscitated a person who had been under water for fourteen minutes, by simply rubbing the whole of his body with warm flannels, in a warm room, for eight hours and a half, at the end of which time the person began to show the first symptoms of returning animation. Should the accident occur at a great distance from any house, this treatment should be adopted as closely as the circumstances will permit of. Breathing through any tube, such as a piece of card or paper rolled into the form of a pipe, will do as a substitute for the bellows. To recapitulate: Rub the body dry; take matters out of mouth; cover with blankets or clothes; slightly raise the head, and place the body in a warm bath, or on a bed in a warm room; apply smelling-salts to nose; employ artificial breathing; rub well with warm flannels; put mustard poultices to feet, hands, and insides of thighs and legs, with warm bricks or bottles to armpits. Don't bleed. Give wine, brandy, or sal-volatile when recovering, and persevere till actual signs of death are seen.
2676. 2. Drowning.—This is one of the most common causes of death by suffocation.—Treatment. Various methods have been used, and since some of them are not only ineffective but harmful, we'll mention them here so they can be avoided. First of all, never hang a person upside down, as it's a misconception that water gets into the lungs. Hanging someone by their heels is just as harmful as hanging them by their neck. It's also incorrect to think that rubbing the body with salt and water is helpful.—Proper Treatment. As soon as someone is taken out of the water, they should be dried off and wrapped in blankets; if these aren't available, use the clothes of bystanders. With their head slightly elevated, and any water, seaweed, or foam in their mouth cleared out, they should be rushed to the nearest house. They should then be placed in a warm bath, about as hot as can be comfortably tolerated by the hand, and kept there for around ten minutes while artificial respiration is administered. Once out of the bath, they should lie flat on their back on a warm bed in a warm room, dried thoroughly, and constantly rubbed all over with warm flannels. At the same time, apply mustard poultices to the soles of the feet, palms of the hands, and the inner surfaces of the thighs and legs. Warm bricks or bottles filled with warm water should be placed under the armpits. Tickling the nose with a feather and applying smelling salts can help stimulate them. This treatment should begin while the bath is being prepared, as well as after they are taken out. The bath isn’t absolutely necessary; consistently rubbing the body with flannels in a warm room has proven sufficient for resuscitation. Sir B. Brodie notes that warm air is just as effective as warm water. When signs of returning consciousness appear, give a little wine, brandy, or twenty drops of sal-volatile mixed with water. In some situations, it may be necessary to bleed the patient about twelve to twenty-four hours after they've revived due to specific head symptoms that can occur. However, bleeding should be done very cautiously, even by professionals—non-professionals should never attempt it. The best approach in these instances is to keep the head raised and cool with a lotion recommended for sprains; give an aperient draught, and avoid anything stimulating, like wine, brandy, sal-volatile, etc. Generally, a person dies about three and a half minutes after being underwater. However, it's hard to determine exactly how long they've been under it, even though we may know how long they've been in it. Therefore, always continue resuscitation efforts until clear signs of death are present, even if this takes six, eight, or ten hours. Dr. Douglas from Glasgow revived a person who had been underwater for fourteen minutes by simply rubbing their whole body with warm flannels in a warm room for eight and a half hours, after which the person began to show the first signs of returning consciousness. If the accident happens far from any house, apply this treatment as closely as circumstances allow. Breathing through any tube, like a rolled piece of paper or card, will substitute for the bellows. To summarize: Rub the body dry; clear the mouth; cover with blankets or clothes; slightly raise the head, and place the body in a warm bath or on a bed in a warm room; use smelling salts on the nose; perform artificial respiration; rub with warm flannels; apply mustard poultices to feet, hands, and inner thighs and legs, placing warm bricks or bottles under the armpits. Don’t bleed. Offer wine, brandy, or sal-volatile when they start recovering, and persist until you see actual signs of death.
2677. Briefly to conclude what we have to say of suffocation, let us treat of Lightning. When a person has been struck by lightning, there is a general paleness of the whole body, with the exception of the part struck, which is often blackened, or even scorched.—Treatment. Same as for drowning. It is not, however, of much use; for when death takes place at all, it is generally instantaneous.
2677. To briefly conclude our discussion on suffocation, let’s talk about Lightning. When someone is struck by lightning, their entire body usually becomes pale, except for the area that was hit, which is often blackened or even burned. —Treatment. The same as for drowning. However, it’s not very effective because if death occurs, it’s generally instantaneous.
2678. CURE FOR THE TOOTHACHE.—Take a piece of sheet zinc, about the size of a sixpence, and a piece of silver, say a shilling; place them together, and hold the defective tooth between them or contiguous to them; in a few minutes the pain will be gone, as if by magic. The zinc and silver, acting as a galvanic battery, will produce on the nerves of the tooth sufficient electricity to establish a current, and consequently to relieve the pain. Or smoke a pipe of tobacco and caraway-seeds. Again—
2678. CURE FOR TOOTHACHE.—Take a piece of sheet zinc about the size of a sixpence and a piece of silver, like a shilling; place them together and hold the painful tooth between them or close to them. In a few minutes, the pain will disappear as if by magic. The zinc and silver, acting like a galvanic battery, will generate enough electricity on the nerves of the tooth to create a current, thus relieving the pain. Alternatively, smoke a pipe with tobacco and caraway seeds. Again—
2679. A small piece of the pellitory root will, by the flow of saliva it causes, afford relief. Creosote, or a few drops of tincture of myrrh, or friar's balsam, on cotton, put on the tooth, will often subdue the pain. A small piece of camphor, however, retained in the mouth, is the most reliable and likely means of conquering the paroxysms of this dreaded enemy.
2679. A small piece of pellitory root will help relieve pain by increasing saliva flow. Applying creosote, a few drops of tincture of myrrh, or friar's balsam on a cotton ball to the tooth can often ease the pain. However, keeping a small piece of camphor in your mouth is the most reliable way to overcome the episodes of this dreaded pain.
2680. WARTS.—Eisenberg says, in his "Advice on the Hand," that the hydrochlorate of lime is the most certain means of destroying warts; the process, however, is very slow, and demands perseverance, for, if discontinued before the proper time, no advantage is gained. The following is a simple cure:—On breaking the stalk of the crowfoot plant in two, a drop of milky juice will be observed to hang on the upper part of the stem; if this be allowed to drop on a wart, so that it be well saturated with the juice, in about three or four dressings the warts will die, and may be taken off with the fingers. They may be removed by the above means from the teats of cows, where they are sometimes very troublesome, and prevent them standing quiet to be milked. The wart touched lightly every second day with lunar caustic, or rubbed every night with blue-stone, for a few weeks, will destroy the largest wart, wherever situated.
2680. WARTS.—Eisenberg mentions in his "Advice on the Hand" that hydrochlorate of lime is the most reliable method for getting rid of warts; however, the process is quite slow and requires persistence because if you stop before it's finished, you won't see any benefits. Here’s a simple remedy: When you break the stalk of the crowfoot plant in half, a drop of milky juice will collect at the top of the stem; if you let this drop onto a wart, making sure it’s well soaked with the juice, in about three or four applications, the warts will die and can be removed with your fingers. This method can also be used to remove warts from cow teats, where they can be quite bothersome and make it hard for them to stand still for milking. A wart touched lightly every other day with lunar caustic, or rubbed every night with blue stone for a few weeks, will eliminate even the largest wart, no matter where it is located.
2681. To CURE A WHITLOW.—As soon as the whitlow has risen distinctly, a pretty large piece should be snipped out, so that the watery matter may readily escape, and continue to flow out as fast as produced. A bread-and-water poultice should be put on for a few days, when the wound should be bound up lightly with some mild ointment, when a cure will be speedily completed. Constant poulticing both before and after the opening of the whitlow, is the only practice needed; but as the matter lies deep, when it is necessary to open the abscess, the incision must be made deep to reach the suppuration.
2681. To CURE A WHITLOW.—As soon as the whitlow has clearly formed, a fairly large piece should be cut out so that the fluid can easily escape and continue to drain as it's produced. A bread-and-water poultice should be applied for a few days, after which the wound should be lightly covered with a mild ointment, leading to a quick recovery. Regular poulticing both before and after opening the whitlow is the only treatment required; however, since the pus is located deep, when it’s necessary to open the abscess, the cut must be made deep to reach the infection.
2682. WOUNDS.—There are several kinds of wounds, which are called by different names, according to their appearance, or the manner in which they are produced. As, however, it would be useless, and even hurtful, to bother the reader's head with too many nice professional distinctions, we shall content ourselves with dividing wounds into three classes.
2682. WOUNDS.—There are several types of wounds, each called by different names based on their appearance or how they were caused. However, it would be unhelpful and even confusing to overwhelm the reader with too many detailed professional distinctions, so we will simply categorize wounds into three classes.
2683. 1. Incised wounds or cuts—those produced by a knife, or some sharp instrument.
2683. 1. Incised wounds or cuts—those made by a knife or some sharp instrument.
2684. 2. Lacerated, or torn wounds—those produced by the claws of an animal, the bite of a dog, running quickly against some projecting blunt object, such as a nail, &c.
2684. 2. Lacerated, or torn wounds—those caused by an animal's claws, a dog's bite, or running quickly into a sharp object, like a nail, etc.
2685. 3. Punctured or penetrating wounds—those produced by anything running deeply into the flesh; such as a sword, a sharp nail, a spike, the point of a bayonet, &c.
2685. 3. Punctured or penetrating wounds—those created by anything that goes deeply into the flesh; like a sword, a sharp nail, a spike, the tip of a bayonet, etc.
2686. Class 1. Incised wounds or cuts.—The danger arising from these accidents is owing more to their position than to their extent. Thus, a cut of half an inch long, which goes through an artery, is more serious than a cut of two inches long, which is not near one. Again, a small cut on the head is more often followed by dangerous symptoms than a much larger one on the legs.—Treatment. If the cut is not a very large one, and no artery or vein is wounded, this is very simple. If there are any foreign substances left in the wound, they must be taken out, and the bleeding must be quite stopped before the wound is strapped up. If the bleeding is not very great, it may easily be stopped by raising the cut part, and applying rags dipped in cold water to it. All clots of blood must be carefully removed; for, if they are left behind, they prevent the wound from healing. When the bleeding has been stopped, and the wound perfectly cleaned, its two edges are to be brought closely together by thin straps of common adhesive plaster, which should remain on, if there is not great pain or heat about the part, for two or three days, without being removed. The cut part should be kept raised and cool. When the strips of plaster are to be taken off, they should first be well bathed with lukewarm water. This will cause them to come away easily, and without opening the lips of the wound; which accident is very likely to take place, if they are pulled off without having been first moistened with the warm water. If the wound is not healed when the strips of plaster are taken off, fresh ones must be applied. Great care is required in treating cuts of the head, as they are often followed by erysipelas taking place round them. They should be strapped with isinglass plaster, which is much less irritating than the ordinary adhesive plaster. Only use as many strips as are actually requisite to keep the two edges of the wound together; keep the patient quite quiet, on low diet, for a week or so, according to his symptoms. Purge him well with the No. 2 pills (five grains of blue pill mixed with the same quantity of compound extract of colocynth; make into two pills, the dose for an adult). If the patient is feverish, give him two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture three times a day. (The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is thus made: Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water.) A person should be very careful of himself for a month or two after having had a bad cut on the head. His bowels should be kept constantly open, and all excitement and excess avoided. When a vein or artery is wounded, the danger is, of course, much greater. Those accidents, therefore, should always be attended to by a surgeon, if he can possibly be procured. Before he arrives, however, or in case his assistance cannot be obtained at all, the following treatment should be adopted:—Raise the cut part, and press rags dipped in cold water firmly against it. This will often be sufficient to stop the bleeding, if the divided artery or vein is not dangerous. When an artery is divided, the blood is of a bright red colour, and comes away in jets. In this case, and supposing the leg or arm to be the cut part, a handkerchief is to be tied tightly round the limb above the cut; and, if possible, the two bleeding ends of the artery should each be tied with a piece of silk. If the bleeding is from a vein, the blood is much darker, and does not come away in jets. In this case, the handkerchief is to be tied below the cut, and a pad of lint or linen pressed firmly against the divided ends of the vein. Let every bad cut, especially where there is much bleeding, and even although it may to all appearance have been stopped, be attended to by a surgeon, if one can by any means be obtained.
2686. Class 1. Incised wounds or cuts.—The risk from these injuries is more about their location than their size. For example, a half-inch cut that hits an artery is more dangerous than a two-inch cut that doesn't reach one. Additionally, a small cut on the head can lead to serious complications more often than a larger cut on the legs.—Treatment. If the cut isn't very large and doesn't hit any arteries or veins, the treatment is straightforward. Any foreign materials must be removed from the wound, and bleeding should be completely stopped before the area is bandaged. If the bleeding isn't severe, it can often be controlled by elevating the cut and applying cloths soaked in cold water. All clotted blood should be thoroughly cleaned out; leaving it can hinder healing. Once bleeding is stopped and the wound is clean, its edges should be brought together with thin strips of regular adhesive plaster, which should stay on for two to three days unless there is significant pain or heat in the area. The cut should be kept elevated and cool. When it's time to remove the plaster, moisten it well with lukewarm water first. This helps it come off easily without reopening the wound, which often happens if you pull it off dry. If the wound isn't healed after removing the plaster, apply new strips. Special care is needed for head cuts, as they can lead to erysipelas around the area. Use isinglass plaster for these, as it's less irritating than standard adhesive plaster. Only use as many strips as necessary to keep the edges together; keep the patient calm and on a low diet for about a week, depending on symptoms. Administer a purgative using No. 2 pills (five grains of blue pill mixed with an equal amount of compound extract of colocynth; make into two pills, the dosage for an adult). If the patient has a fever, give two tablespoons of the fever mixture three times a day. (Reminder for making the fever mixture: mix one drachm of powdered nitre, two drachms of carbonate of potash, two teaspoons of antimonial wine, and one tablespoon of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint of water.) It’s crucial for someone with a serious head cut to take care of themselves for a month or two after the injury. They need to keep their bowels regular and avoid excitement and excess. If a vein or artery is cut, the risk is significantly higher, so these injuries should always be checked by a surgeon if possible. However, if a surgeon can't be reached in time, the following steps should be taken: elevate the cut area and press wet rags firmly against it. This can often stop the bleeding if the damaged artery or vein isn't life-threatening. When an artery is cut, the blood appears bright red and comes out in pulses. In this situation, if the affected area is a leg or arm, tie a handkerchief tightly around the limb above the cut, and, if possible, tie each of the bleeding ends of the artery with a piece of silk. If the bleeding comes from a vein, the blood is darker and doesn't pulse. Here, the handkerchief should be tied below the cut, and a pad of gauze or linen should be pressed firmly against the severed ends of the vein. Always seek surgical attention for any serious cut, especially ones that bleed heavily, even if the bleeding appears to have stopped.
2687. Class 2. Lacerated or torn wounds.—There is not so much bleeding in these cases as in clean cuts, because the blood-vessels are torn across in a zigzag manner, and not divided straight across. In other respects, however, they are more serious than ordinary cuts, being often followed by inflammation, mortification, fever, and in some cases by locked-jaw. Foreign substances are also more likely to remain in them.—Treatment. Stop the bleeding, if there is any, in the manner directed for cuts; remove all substances that may be in the wound; keep the patient quite quiet, and on low diet—gruel, arrowroot, and the like; purge with the No. 1 pills and the No. 1 mixture. (The No. 1 pill: Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial powder, with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills, which is the dose for an adult. The No. 1 mixture: Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea. A quarter of the mixture is a dose.) If there are feverish symptoms, give two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture (see above) every four hours. If possible, bring the two edges of the wound together, but do not strain the parts to do this. If they cannot be brought together, on account of a piece of flesh being taken clean out, or the raggedness of their edges, put lint dipped in cold water over the wound, and cover it with oiled silk. It will then fill up from the bottom. If the wound, after being well washed, should still contain any sand, or grit of any kind, or if it should get red and hot from inflammation, a large warm bread poultice will be the best thing to apply until it becomes quite clean, or the inflammation goes down. When the wound is a very large one, the application of warm poppy fomentations is better than that of the lint dipped in cold water. If the redness and pain about the part, and the general feverish symptoms, are great, from eight to twelve leeches are to be applied round the wound, and a warm poppy fomentation or warm bread poultice applied after they drop off.
2687. Class 2. Lacerated or torn wounds.—These types of wounds usually bleed less than clean cuts because the blood vessels are torn in a zigzag pattern rather than cut straight across. However, they tend to be more serious than typical cuts, often resulting in inflammation, tissue death, fever, and in some cases, tetanus. There's also a higher chance of foreign materials being trapped in them.—Treatment. First, stop any bleeding like you would for cuts; remove any debris from the wound; keep the patient calm and on a light diet—like gruel or arrowroot; administer a laxative with the No. 1 pills and the No. 1 mixture. (The No. 1 pill: Mix 5 grains of calomel and 5 grains of antimonial powder with a bit of bread crumb to make two pills, which is the dose for an adult. The No. 1 mixture: Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of senna tea. A quarter of this mixture is a dose.) If feverish symptoms appear, give two tablespoons of the fever mixture (see above) every four hours. If possible, bring the edges of the wound together, but don’t force them. If they can’t be drawn together due to a chunk of flesh being missing or the jagged edges, apply lint soaked in cold water over the wound and cover it with oiled silk. It will then heal from the bottom up. If, after washing the wound well, it still has sand or grit, or if it becomes red and hot from inflammation, apply a large warm bread poultice until it’s completely clean or the inflammation subsides. For very large wounds, warm poppy compresses are better than cold water-soaked lint. If there's significant redness, pain, and general feverish symptoms, apply eight to twelve leeches around the wound, followed by a warm poppy compress or warm bread poultice after they drop off.
2688. Class 3. Punctured or penetrating wounds.—These, for many reasons, are the most serious of all kinds of wounds.—Treatment. The same as that for lacerated wounds. Pus (matter) often forms at the bottom of these wounds, which should, therefore, be kept open at the top, by separating their edges every morning with a bodkin, and applying a warm bread poultice immediately afterwards. They will then, in all probability, heal up from the bottom, and any matter which may form will find its own way out into the poultice. Sometimes, however, in spite of all precautions, collections of matter (abscesses) will form at the bottom or sides of the wound. Those are to be opened with a lancet, and the matter thus let out. When matter is forming, the patient has cold shiverings, throbbing pain in the part, and flushes on the face, which come and go. A swelling of the part is also often seen. The matter in the abscesses may be felt to move backwards and forwards, when pressure is made from one side of the swelling to the other with the first and second fingers (the middle and that next the thumb) of each hand.
2688. Class 3. Punctured or penetrating wounds.—These are, for many reasons, the most serious type of wound.—Treatment. The same as for lacerated wounds. Pus often develops at the bottom of these wounds, so they should be kept open at the top by separating the edges every morning with a pointed tool and applying a warm bread poultice right after. This will likely allow the wound to heal from the bottom up, and any pus that forms will find its way out into the poultice. However, sometimes, despite all precautions, pus collections (abscesses) can form at the bottom or sides of the wound. These should be opened with a lancet to drain the pus. When pus is forming, the patient may experience chills, throbbing pain in the area, and intermittent flushes on the face. Swelling in the area is also common. You can often feel the pus in the abscess move back and forth when pressure is applied from one side of the swelling to the other with the first and second fingers (the middle and the one next to the thumb) of each hand.
MEDICAL MEMORANDA.
2689. ADVANTAGES OF CLEANLINESS.—Health and strength cannot be long continued unless the skin—all the skin—is washed frequently with a sponge or other means. Every morning is best; after which the skin should be rubbed very well with a rough cloth. This is the most certain way of preventing cold, and a little substitute for exercise, as it brings blood to the surface, and causes it to circulate well through the fine capillary vessels. Labour produces this circulation naturally. The insensible perspiration cannot escape well if the skin is not clean, as the pores get choked up. It is said that in health about half the aliment we take passes out through the skin.
2689. ADVANTAGES OF CLEANLINESS.—Health and strength can't be maintained for long unless the skin—all of it—is washed regularly with a sponge or another method. Every morning is ideal; afterward, the skin should be thoroughly rubbed with a rough cloth. This is the most effective way to prevent colds and serves as a slight substitute for exercise, as it brings blood to the surface and promotes good circulation through the tiny capillary vessels. Physical activity naturally produces this circulation. If the skin isn't clean, the insensible perspiration can't escape properly because the pores get blocked. It's believed that in a healthy state, about half of the food we consume is expelled through the skin.
2690. THE TOMATO MEDICINAL.—To many persons there is something unpleasant, not to say offensive, in the flavour of this excellent fruit. It has, however, long been used for culinary purposes in various countries of Europe. Dr. Bennett, a professor of some celebrity, considers it an invaluable article of diet, and ascribes to it very important medicinal properties. He declares:—1. That the tomato is one of the most powerful deobstruents of the materia medica; and that, in all those affections of the liver and other organs where calomel is indicated, it is probably the most effective and least harmful remedial agent known in the profession. 2. That a chemical extract can be obtained from it, which will altogether supersede the use of calomel in the cure of diseases. 3. That he has successfully treated diarrhoea with this article alone. 4. That when used as an article of diet, it is almost a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion.
2690. THE TOMATO MEDICINAL.—For many people, there's something unpleasant, if not downright off-putting, about the taste of this outstanding fruit. However, it has long been used in cooking in various European countries. Dr. Bennett, a well-known professor, considers it an essential part of the diet and attributes very important medicinal properties to it. He states:—1. That the tomato is one of the most effective substances for clearing blockages in the materia medica; and that, in cases involving the liver and other organs where calomel is recommended, it is likely the most effective and least harmful remedy known in the field. 2. That a chemical extract can be made from it that will completely replace the use of calomel in treating illnesses. 3. That he has effectively treated diarrhea with it alone. 4. That when included in the diet, it is nearly a universal remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion.
2691. WARM WATER.—Warm water is preferable to cold water, as a drink, to persons who are subject to dyspeptic and bilious complaints, and it may be taken more freely than cold water, and consequently answers better as a diluent for carrying off bile, and removing obstructions in the urinary secretion, in cases of stone and gravel. When water of a temperature equal to that of the human body is used for drink, it proves considerably stimulant, and is particularly suited to dyspeptic, bilious, gouty, and chlorotic subjects.
2691. WARM WATER.—Warm water is better than cold water as a drink for people who experience digestive issues and liver problems. It can be consumed more freely than cold water, making it more effective for flushing out bile and relieving blockages in urinary output due to stones and gravel. Drinking water that’s the same temperature as the human body can be quite stimulating and is especially beneficial for those with digestive issues, liver problems, gout, and anemia.
2692. CAUTIONS IN VISITING SICK-ROOMS.—Never venture into a sick-room if you are in a violent perspiration (if circumstances require your continuance there), for the moment your body becomes cold, it is in a state likely to absorb the infection, and give you the disease. Nor visit a sick person (especially if the complaint be of a contagious nature) with an empty stomach; as this disposes the system more readily to receive the contagion. In attending a sick person, place yourself where the air passes from the door or window to the bed of the diseased, not betwixt the diseased person and any fire that is in the room, as the heat of the fire will draw the infectious vapour in that direction, and you would run much danger from breathing it.
2692. CAUTIONS IN VISITING SICK ROOMS. — Never go into a sick room if you are sweating profusely (unless you have to be there), because as soon as your body cools down, it could absorb the infection and make you sick. Also, don’t visit someone who’s ill (especially if their illness is contagious) on an empty stomach; this makes your body more likely to catch the infection. When attending to a sick person, position yourself so that the air flows from the door or window to the patient’s bed, and not between the patient and any fire in the room, as the heat from the fire will draw in the infectious air, putting you at greater risk of inhaling it.
2693. NECESSITY OF GOOD VENTILATION IN ROOMS LIGHTED WITH GAS.—In dwelling-houses lighted by gas, the frequent renewal of the air is of great importance. A single gas-burner will consume more oxygen, and produce more carbonic acid to deteriorate the atmosphere of a room, than six or eight candles. If, therefore, when several burners are used, no provision is made for the escape of the corrupted air and for the introduction of pure air from without, the health will necessarily suffer.
2693. IMPORTANCE OF GOOD VENTILATION IN ROOMS LIT WITH GAS.—In homes lit by gas, it's really important to regularly refresh the air. Just one gas burner uses more oxygen and creates more carbon dioxide, making the room's atmosphere worse, than six or eight candles. So, if multiple burners are in use and there's no way for the stale air to get out and fresh air to come in from outside, people's health will definitely be affected.
LEGAL MEMORANDA.
CHAPTER XLIV.
2694. Humorists tell us there is no act of our lives which can be performed without breaking through some one of the many meshes of the law by which our rights are so carefully guarded; and those learned in the law, when they do give advice without the usual fee, and in the confidence of friendship, generally say, "Pay, pay anything rather than go to law;" while those having experience in the courts of Themis have a wholesome dread of its pitfalls. There are a few exceptions, however, to this fear of the law's uncertainties; and we hear of those to whom a lawsuit is on agreeable relaxation, a gentle excitement. One of this class, when remonstrated with, retorted, that while one friend kept dogs, and another horses, he, as he had a right to do, kept a lawyer; and no one had a right to dispute his taste. We cannot pretend, in these few pages, to lay down even the principles of law, not to speak of its contrary exposition in different courts; but there are a few acts of legal import which all men—and women too—must perform; and to these acts we may be useful in giving a right direction. There is a house to be leased or purchased, servants to be engaged, a will to be made, or property settled, in all families; and much of the welfare of its members depends on these things being done in proper legal form.
2694. Humorists tell us there’s no action in our lives that doesn’t break through some of the many laws that carefully guard our rights. Those who understand the law, when they offer advice without charging their usual fee and in the spirit of friendship, often say, "Pay, pay anything rather than go to court;" while those with experience in the legal system have a healthy fear of its pitfalls. However, there are a few exceptions to this fear of the law's uncertainties, and we hear about people for whom a lawsuit is a pleasant distraction, a bit of excitement. One person in this category, when challenged, replied that while one friend had dogs and another had horses, he, as he had the right, had a lawyer; and no one had the right to question his choice. We can’t pretend, in these few pages, to outline the principles of law, let alone its conflicting interpretations in different courts; but there are a few legal actions that everyone—men and women alike—must take; and we may be helpful in guiding them correctly. There is a house to lease or buy, servants to hire, a will to create, or property to settle in every family; and much of the members' well-being depends on these matters being handled properly in legal terms.
2695. PURCHASING A HOUSE.—Few men will venture to purchase a freehold, or even a leasehold property, by private contract, without making themselves acquainted with the locality, and employing a solicitor to examine the titles,; but many do walk into an auction-room, and bid for a property upon the representations of the auctioneer. The conditions, whatever they are, will bind him; for by one of the legal fictions of which we have still so many, the auctioneer, who is in reality the agent for the vendor, becomes also the agent for the buyer, and by putting down the names of bidders and the biddings, he binds him to whom the lot is knocked down to the sale and the conditions,—the falling of the auctioneer's hammer is the acceptance of the offer, which completes the agreement to purchase. In any such transaction you can only look at the written or printed particulars; any verbal statement of the auctioneer, made at the time of the sale, cannot contradict them, and they are implemented by the agreement, which the auctioneer calls on the purchaser to sign after the sale. You should sign no such contract without having a duplicate of it signed by the auctioneer, and delivered to you. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that no trustee or assignee can purchase property for himself included in the trust, even at auction; nor is it safe to pay the purchase money to an agent of the vendor, unless he give a written authority to the agent to receive it, besides handing over the requisite deeds and receipts.
2695. PURCHASING A HOUSE.—Few people are willing to buy a freehold or even a leasehold property through a private sale without first getting to know the area and hiring a lawyer to check the titles; however, many do step into an auction room and bid on a property based solely on what the auctioneer says. Whatever the terms are, they will bind the buyer, because of one of the many legal fictions that still exist: the auctioneer, who is really the agent for the seller, also acts as the agent for the buyer, and by recording the names of bidders and the amounts they bid, he obligates the person the lot is sold to, as well as the terms of the sale—when the auctioneer’s hammer falls, it means the offer is accepted, and the agreement to purchase is finalized. In such transactions, you should only rely on the written or printed details; any verbal statements from the auctioneer made during the sale cannot contradict them, and these details are formalized by the agreement that the auctioneer will ask the buyer to sign after the sale. Never sign such a contract without getting a copy signed by the auctioneer and given to you. Additionally, it’s important to note that no trustee or assignee can buy property for themselves that falls under the trust, even at auction; nor is it wise to pay the purchase money to the seller’s agent unless he provides written authorization to the agent to collect it, as well as delivering the necessary deeds and receipts.
2696. The laws of purchase and sale of property are so complicated that Lord St. Leonards devotes five chapters of his book on Property Law to the subject. The only circumstances strong enough to vitiate a purchase, which has been reduced to a written contract, is proof of fraudulent representation as to an encumbrance of which the buyer was ignorant, or a defect in title; but every circumstance which the purchaser might have learned by careful investigation, the law presumes that he did know. Thus, in buying a leasehold estate or house, all the covenants of the original lease are presumed to be known. "It is not unusual," says Lord St. Leonards, "to stipulate, in conditions of sale of leasehold property, that the production of a receipt for the last year's rent shall be accepted as proof that all the lessor's covenants were performed up to that period. Never bid for one clogged with such a condition. There are some acts against which no relief can be obtained; for example, the tenant's right to insure, or his insuring in an office or in names not authorized in the lease. And you should not rely upon the mere fact of the insurance being correct at the time of sale: there may have been a prior breach of covenant, and the landlord may not have waived his right of entry for the forfeiture." And where any doubt of this kind exists, the landlord should be appealed to.
2696. The rules around buying and selling property are so complicated that Lord St. Leonards dedicates five chapters of his book on Property Law to the topic. The only situations strong enough to invalidate a purchase that has been reduced to a written contract are proof of fraudulent representation regarding an encumbrance that the buyer didn't know about, or a title defect; however, the law assumes that the buyer is aware of any circumstances they could have discovered through thorough investigation. Therefore, when buying a leasehold estate or house, all the covenants of the original lease are assumed to be known. "It's not unusual," says Lord St. Leonards, "to include in the conditions of sale of leasehold property that a receipt for last year's rent will be accepted as proof that all the lessor's covenants were fulfilled up to that point. Never bid for one burdened with such a condition. There are certain actions against which no relief can be obtained; for example, the tenant's right to insure, or their insurance in an office or names not permitted in the lease. You should not depend on the fact that the insurance was correct at the time of sale: there may have been a previous breach of covenant, and the landlord might not have waived their right to take action for the forfeiture." If any doubts like this arise, the landlord should be consulted.
2697. Interest on a purchase is due from the day fixed upon for completing: where it cannot be completed, the loss rests with the party with whom the delay rests; but it appears, when the delay rests with the seller, and the money is lying idle, notice of that is to be given to the seller to make him liable to the loss of interest. In law, the property belongs to the purchaser from the date of the contract; he is entitled to any benefit, and must bear any loss; the seller may suffer the insurance to drop without giving notice; and should a fire take place, the loss falls on the buyer. In agreeing to buy a house, therefore, provide at the same time for its insurance. Common fixtures pass with the house, where nothing is said about them.
2697. Interest on a purchase is due from the day set for completion. If it can’t be completed, the loss falls on the party responsible for the delay. However, if the delay is on the seller's side and the money is just sitting there, the seller must be informed to hold them accountable for the loss of interest. Legally, the property belongs to the buyer from the contract date; they are entitled to any benefits and must also shoulder any losses. The seller can let the insurance lapse without notifying the buyer, and if a fire occurs, the buyer bears the loss. Therefore, when agreeing to buy a house, also make sure to arrange for its insurance. Common fixtures come with the house unless stated otherwise.
2698. There are some well-recognized laws, of what may be called good-neighbourhood, which affect all properties. If you purchase a field or house, the seller retaining another field between yours and the highway, he must of necessity grant you a right of way. Where the owner of more than one house sells one of them, the purchaser is entitled to benefit by all drains leading from his house into other drains, and will be subject to all necessary drains for the adjoining houses, although there is no express reservation as to drains.
2698. There are some well-known laws about good neighborliness that apply to all properties. If you buy a field or house, and the seller keeps another field between yours and the highway, they must give you a right of way. When the owner of multiple houses sells one of them, the buyer is entitled to use all drains that lead from their house to other drains and will be responsible for all necessary drains for the neighboring houses, even if there isn’t a specific agreement about the drains.
Thus, if his happens to be a leading drain, other necessary drains may be opened into it. In purchasing land for building on, you should expressly reserve a right to make an opening into any sewer or watercourse on the vendor's land for drainage purposes.
Thus, if this happens to be a main drain, other necessary drains may connect to it. When buying land for development, you should clearly reserve the right to access any sewer or waterway on the seller's property for drainage needs.
2699. CONSTRUCTIONS.—Among the cautions which purchasers of houses, land, or leaseholds, should keep in view, is a not inconsiderable array of constructive notices, which are equally binding with actual ones. Notice to your attorney or agent is notice to you; and when the same attorney is employed by both parties, and he is aware of an encumbrance of which you are ignorant, you are bound by it; even where the vendor is guilty of a fraud to which your agent is privy, you are responsible, and cannot be released from the consequences.
2699. CONSTRUCTIONS.—Among the things buyers of houses, land, or leaseholds should be aware of is a significant set of constructive notices, which hold the same weight as actual ones. Notice to your lawyer or agent is considered notice to you; and when the same lawyer represents both parties and knows about a lien that you don’t, you are held accountable for it. Even if the seller commits fraud that your agent is aware of, you are still responsible and cannot escape the consequences.
2700. THE RELATIONS OF LANDLORD AND TENANT are most important to both parties, and each should clearly understand his position. The proprietor of a house, or house and land, agrees to let it either to a tenant-at-will, a yearly tenancy, or under lease. A tenancy-at-will may be created by parol or by agreement; and as the tenant may be turned out when his landlord pleases, so he may leave when he himself thinks proper; but this kind of tenancy is extremely inconvenient to both parties. Where an annual rent is attached to the tenancy, in construction of law, a lease or agreement without limitation to any certain period is a lease from year to year, and both landlord and tenant are entitled to notice before the tenancy can be determined by the other. This notice must be given at least six months before the expiration of the current year of the tenancy, and it can only terminate at the end of any whole year from the time at which it began; so that the tenant entering into possession at Midsummer, the notice must be given to or by him, so as to terminate at the same term. When once he is in possession, he has a right to remain for a whole year; and if no notice be given at the end of the first half-year of his tenancy, he will have to remain two years, and so on for any number of years.
2700. THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN LANDLORD AND TENANT is crucial for both parties, and each should clearly understand their role. The owner of a house or property agrees to rent it either to a tenant-at-will, on a yearly basis, or under a lease. A tenancy-at-will can be established verbally or through an agreement; since the tenant can be evicted whenever the landlord chooses, the tenant can also leave whenever they want, but this type of arrangement can be quite inconvenient for both sides. When there is an annual rent associated with the tenancy, legally speaking, a lease or agreement without a defined period is considered a lease from year to year, meaning both the landlord and the tenant must provide notice before the tenancy can be terminated by the other party. This notice must be delivered at least six months before the current year of the tenancy ends, and it can only end at the conclusion of a full year from when it started; for example, if the tenant moves in at Midsummer, the notice must be given to or from him to end at the same time. Once the tenant is in possession, they have the right to stay for an entire year; if no notice is given at the end of the first six months of their tenancy, they will have to stay for two years, and this pattern continues for any number of years.
2701. TENANCY BY SUFFERANCE.—This is a tenancy, not very uncommon, arising out of the unwillingness of either party to take the initiative in a more decided course at the expiry of a lease or agreement. The tenant remains in possession, and continues to pay rent as before, and becomes, from sufferance, a tenant from year to year, which can only be terminated by one party or the other giving the necessary six months' notice to quit at the term corresponding with the commencement of the original tenancy. This tenancy at sufferance applies also to an under-tenant, who remains in possession and pays rent to the reversioner or head landlord. A six months' notice will be insufficient for this tenancy. A notice was given (in Right v. Darby, I.T.R. 159) to quit a house held by plaintiff as tenant from year to year, on the 17th June, 1840, requiring him "to quit the premises on the 11th October following, or such other day as his said tenancy might expire." The tenancy had commenced on the 11th October in a former year, but it was held that this was not a good notice for the year ending October 11, 1841. A tenant from year to year gave his landlord notice to quit, ending the tenancy at a time within the half-year; the landlord acquiesced at first, but afterwards refused to accept the notice. The tenant quitted the premises; the landlord entered, and even made some repairs, but it was afterwards held that the tenancy was not determined. A notice to quit must be such as the tenant may safely act on at the time of receiving it; therefore it can only be given by an agent properly authorized at the time, and cannot be made good by the landlord adopting it afterwards. An unqualified notice, given at the proper time, should conclude with "On failure whereof, I shall require you to pay me double the former rent for so long as you retain possession."
2701. TENANCY BY SUFFERANCE.—This is a type of tenancy that isn't very uncommon, arising from the unwillingness of either party to take action at the end of a lease or agreement. The tenant stays in possession and continues to pay rent as before, becoming a tenant from year to year by default. This arrangement can only be ended if one party gives the necessary six months' notice to vacate, corresponding to the start of the original tenancy. This tenancy by sufferance also applies to an under-tenant who remains in possession and pays rent to the property owner or head landlord. Six months' notice will not be enough for this tenancy. In Right v. Darby, I.T.R. 159, a notice to vacate was given to a tenant on June 17, 1840, requiring them "to vacate the premises on October 11 of that year, or on another day that their tenancy might expire." The tenancy had started on October 11 of a previous year, but it was ruled that this notice was not valid for the year ending October 11, 1841. A tenant from year to year gave notice to quit, intending to end the tenancy within the half-year; the landlord initially accepted it but later refused to acknowledge the notice. The tenant left the premises; the landlord entered and even did some repairs, but it was later ruled that the tenancy had not ended. A notice to quit must be something the tenant can rely on when they receive it; therefore, it can only be given by an agent who is properly authorized at that time and cannot be validated by the landlord later on. An unconditional notice given at the right time should end with, "If you fail to comply, I will require you to pay double the previous rent for as long as you stay."
2702. LEASES.—A lease is an instrument in writing, by which one person grants to another the occupation and use of lands or tenements for a term of years for a consideration, the lessor granting the lease, and the lessee accepting it with all its conditions. A lessor may grant the lease for any term less than his own interest. A tenant for life in an estate can only grant a lease for his own life. A tenant for life, having power to grant a lease, should grant it only in the terms of the power, otherwise the lease is void, and his estate may be made to pay heavy penalties under the covenant, usually the only one onerous on the lessor, for quiet enjoyment. The proprietor of a freehold—that is, of the possession in perpetuity of lands or tenements—may grant a lease for 999 years, for 99 years, or for 3 years. In the latter case, the lease may be either verbal or in writing, no particular form and no stamps being necessary, except the usual stamp on agreements; so long as the intention of the parties is clearly expressed, and the covenants definite, and well understood by each party, the agreement is complete, and the law satisfied. In the case of settled estates, the court of Chancery is empowered to authorize leases under the 19 & 20 Vict. c. 120, and 21 & 22 Vict. c. 77, as follows:—
2702. LEASES.—A lease is a written document where one person allows another to occupy and use land or property for a set number of years in exchange for payment. The person granting the lease is called the lessor, and the person who accepts it is the lessee, along with all its terms and conditions. A lessor can grant a lease for any duration that is shorter than their own interest in the property. A life tenant can only grant a lease for their own lifetime. If a life tenant has the authority to grant a lease, they must do so according to the terms of that authority; otherwise, the lease is invalid, and they could face significant penalties under the agreement, which typically includes the only burden on the lessor for ensuring peaceful enjoyment. The owner of a freehold—meaning they possess the land or property indefinitely—can issue a lease for 999 years, 99 years, or 3 years. In the last case, the lease can be either oral or written, with no specific format or stamps needed, except the usual stamp on agreements. As long as the intentions of both parties are clearly expressed and the terms are specific and understood by both sides, the agreement is valid, and the law is satisfied. For settled estates, the Court of Chancery is authorized to approve leases under the 19 & 20 Vict. c. 120, and 21 & 22 Vict. c. 77, as follows:—
21 years for agriculture or occupation. 40 years for water-power. 99 years for building-leases. 60 years for repairing-leases.
21 years for farming or work. 40 years for water rights. 99 years for property leases. 60 years for repair leases.
2703. A lessor may also grant an under-lease for a term less than his own: to grant the whole of his term would be an assignment. Leases are frequently burdened with a covenant not to underlet without the consent of the landlord: this is a covenant sometimes very onerous, and to be avoided, where it is possible, by a prudent lessee.
2703. A landlord can also create a sublease for a shorter period than their own lease: granting the entirety of their term would be considered an assignment. Leases often come with a clause that prohibits subletting without the landlord's approval: this clause can be quite burdensome, and a smart tenant should avoid it if possible.
2704. A lease for any term beyond three years, whether an actual lease or an agreement for one, must be in the form of a deed; that is, it must be "under seal;" and all assignments and surrenders of leases must be in the same form, or they are void at law. Thus an agreement made by letter, or by a memorandum of agreement, which would be binding in most cases, would be valueless when it was for a lease, unless witnessed, and given under hand and seal. The last statute, 8 & 9 Vict. c. 106, under which these precautions became necessary, has led to serious difficulties. "The judges," says Lord St. Leonards, "feel the difficulty of holding a lease in writing, but not by deed, to be altogether void, and consequently decided, that although such a lease is void under the statute, yet it so far regulates the holding, that it creates a tenancy from year to year, terminable by half a year's notice; and if the tenure endure for the term attempted to be created by the void lease, the tenant may be evicted at the end of the term without any notice to quit." An agreement for a lease not by deed has been construed to be a lease for a term of years, and consequently void under the statute; "and yet," says Lord St. Leonards, "a court of equity has held that it may be specifically enforced as an agreement upon the terms stated." The law on this point is one of glorious uncertainty; in making any such agreement, therefore, we should be careful to express that it is an agreement, and not a lease; and that it is witnessed and under seal.
2704. A lease for any term longer than three years, whether it’s an actual lease or an agreement for one, must be in the form of a deed; that is, it must be “under seal.” All assignments and surrenders of leases must also be in the same form, or they are void at law. So, an agreement made by letter, or by a memorandum of agreement, which would usually be binding, would be worthless when it comes to a lease unless it’s witnessed and executed under seal. The latest statute, 8 & 9 Vict. c. 106, which made these precautions necessary, has caused serious problems. "The judges," says Lord St. Leonards, "recognize the difficulty of ruling that a lease in writing, but not by deed, is completely void, and have therefore decided that, even though such a lease is void under the statute, it still governs the holding to the extent that it creates a tenancy from year to year, which can be ended with half a year's notice; and if the tenancy lasts for the term attempted by the void lease, the tenant can be evicted at the end of that term without any notice to quit." An agreement for a lease not in deed form has been interpreted as a lease for a specific number of years and therefore void under the statute; "but," says Lord St. Leonards, "a court of equity has ruled that it may be specifically enforced as an agreement based on the terms stated." The law on this matter is notoriously uncertain; hence, in making any such agreement, we should be careful to clearly state that it is an agreement, not a lease, and that it is witnessed and under seal.
2705. AGREEMENTS.—It is usual, where the lease is a repairing one, to agree for a lease to be granted on completion of repairs according to specification. This agreement should contain the names and designation of the parties, a description of the property, and the term of the intended lease, and all the covenants which are to be inserted, as no verbal agreement can be made to a written agreement. It should also declare that the instrument is an agreement for a lease, and not the lease itself. The points to be settled in such an agreement are, the rent, term, and especially covenants for insuring and rebuilding in the event of a fire; and if it is intended that the lessor's consent is to be obtained before assigning or underleasing, a covenant to that effect is required in the agreement. In building-leases, usually granted for 99 years, the tenant is to insure the property; and even where the agreement is silent on that point, the law decides it so. It is otherwise with ordinary tenements, when the tenant pays a full, or what the law terms rack-rent; the landlord is then to insure, unless it is otherwise arranged by the agreement.
2705. AGREEMENTS.—It's common practice for a lease that requires repairs to be agreed upon at the completion of the repairs according to the specifications. This agreement should include the names and titles of the parties involved, a description of the property, the length of the intended lease, and all the covenants that are to be included, as no verbal agreement can override a written agreement. It should also state that the document is an agreement for a lease, and not the lease itself. The key points to clarify in such an agreement are the rent, duration, and especially covenants for insurance and rebuilding in case of a fire; and if it is intended that the landlord's permission is required before subletting or transferring the lease, a covenant for that must be included in the agreement. In building leases, usually granted for 99 years, the tenant is responsible for insuring the property, and even if the agreement doesn't mention this, the law enforces it. However, with regular rental properties, when the tenant pays a full market rent, the landlord is responsible for the insurance unless the agreement states otherwise.
2706. It is important for lessee, and lessor, also, that the latter does not exceed his powers. A lease granted by a tenant for life before he is properly in possession, is void in law; for, although a court of equity, according to Lord St. Leonards, will, "by force of its own jurisdiction, support a bonâ fide lease, granted under a power which is merely erroneous in form or ceremonies," and the 12 & 13 Vict. c. 26, and 13 & 14 Vict. c. 19, compel a new lease to be granted with the necessary variations, while the lessor has no power to compel him to accept such a lease, except when the person in remainder is competent and willing to confirm the original lease without variations, yet all these difficulties involve both delay, costs, and anxieties.
2706. It's important for both the tenant and the landlord that the landlord doesn't exceed their authority. A lease given by a life tenant before they are officially in possession is legally invalid. Although a court of equity, according to Lord St. Leonards, will, "by the power of its own jurisdiction, support a bonâ fide lease granted under a power that is simply incorrect in form or procedure," the laws 12 & 13 Vict. c. 26 and 13 & 14 Vict. c. 19 require a new lease to be issued with the necessary changes. However, the landlord cannot force the tenant to accept this new lease unless the remainderman is able and willing to approve the original lease without changes. Still, these complexities lead to delays, costs, and stress.
2707. In husbandry leases, a covenant to cultivate the land in a husbandlike manner, and according to the custom of the district, is always implied; but it is more usual to prescribe the course of tillage which is to be pursued. In the case of houses for occupation, the tenant would have to keep the house in a tenantable state of repair during the term, and deliver it up in like condition. This is not the case with the tenant at will, or from year to year, where the landlord has to keep the house in tenantable repair, and the tenant is only liable for waste beyond reasonable wear and tear.
2707. In farming leases, there is always an implied agreement to care for the land in a responsible way and according to local customs; however, it’s more common to outline specific farming practices to follow. For rental homes, the tenant is required to maintain the property in a good, livable condition throughout their lease and return it in a similar state. This does not apply to tenants with a month-to-month or yearly agreement, where the landlord is responsible for keeping the house in good repair, and the tenant is only responsible for damage beyond normal wear and tear.
2708. INSURANCE.—Every lease, or agreement for a lease, should covenant not only who is to pay insurance, but how the tenement is to be rebuilt in the event of a fire; for if the house were burnt down, and no provision made for insurance, the tenant, supposing there was the ordinary covenant to repair in the lease, would not only have to rebuild, but to pay rent while it was being rebuilt. More than this, supposing, under the same lease, the landlord had taken the precaution of insuring, he is not compelled to lay out the money recovered in rebuilding the premises. Sir John Leach lays it down, that "the tenant's situation could not be changed by a precaution, on the part of the landlord, with which he had nothing to do." This decision Lord Campbell confirmed in a more recent case, in which an action was brought against a lessee who was not bound to repair, and neither he nor the landlord bound to insure; admitting an equitable defence, the court affirmed Sir John Leach's decision, holding that the tenant was bound to pay the rent, and could not require the landlord to lay out the insurance money in rebuilding. This is opposed to the opinion of Lord St. Leonards, who admits, however, that the decision of the court must overrule his dictum. Such being the state of the law, it is very important that insurance should be provided for, and that the payment of rent should be made to depend upon rebuilding the house in the event of a fire. Care must be taken, however, that this is made a covenant of the lease, as well as in the agreement, otherwise the tenant must rebuild the house.
2708. INSURANCE.—Every lease or lease agreement should specify not only who is responsible for paying insurance but also how the property will be rebuilt in the event of a fire. If the building were to be destroyed by fire and there was no insurance provision, the tenant, assuming the lease included a standard repair clause, would have to rebuild and continue paying rent during the reconstruction. Furthermore, if the landlord had taken the precaution of insuring the property under the same lease, they are not obligated to use the insurance payout to rebuild the premises. Sir John Leach stated that "the tenant's situation could not be changed by a precaution on the part of the landlord with which he had no involvement." This ruling was confirmed by Lord Campbell in a later case involving a lessee who was not required to make repairs, and neither they nor the landlord were obligated to insure; the court upheld Sir John Leach's ruling, asserting that the tenant was required to pay rent and could not demand the landlord use the insurance money for rebuilding. This stands in contrast to Lord St. Leonards’ opinion, who acknowledges that the court's decision must supersede his statement. Given this legal context, it's essential to include insurance provisions and stipulate that the payment of rent is contingent upon the rebuilding of the property in case of fire. However, care must be taken to ensure this is included as a covenant in the lease as well as in the agreement; otherwise, the tenant must rebuild the property.
2709. The law declares that a tenant is not bound to repair damages by tempest, lightning, or other natural casualty, unless there is a special covenant to that effect in the lease; but if there is a general covenant to repair, the repair will fall upon the tenant. Lord Kenyon lays it down, in the case of a bridge destroyed by a flood, the tenant being under a general covenant to repair, that, "where a party, by his own contract, creates a duty or charge upon himself, he is bound to make it good, because he might have guarded against it in the contract." The same principle of law has been applied to a house destroyed by lightning. It is, therefore, important to have this settled in the insurance clause.
2709. The law states that a tenant isn't responsible for repairing damage caused by storms, lightning, or other natural events, unless there's a specific agreement in the lease saying otherwise. However, if there's a general agreement to make repairs, the tenant must take care of them. Lord Kenyon explains, in the case of a bridge destroyed by a flood, that if someone creates an obligation through their contract, they are obligated to fulfill it because they could have included protections in the contract. The same legal principle has been applied to a house destroyed by lightning. Therefore, it's essential to clarify this in the insurance clause.
2710. Lord St. Leonards asserts that "his policies against fire are not so framed as to render the company legally liable." Generally the property is inaccurately described with reference to the conditions under which you insure. They are framed by companies who, probably, are not unwilling to have a legal defence against any claim, as they intend to pay what they deem just claim without taking advantage of any technical objection, and intending to make use of their defence only against what they believe to be a fraud, although they may not be able to prove it. "But," says his lordship, "do not rely upon the moral feelings of the directors. Ascertain that your house falls strictly within the conditions. Even having the surveyor of the company to look over your house before the insurance will not save you, unless your policy is correct." This is true; but probably his lordship's legal jealousy overshoots the mark here. Assurance companies only require an honest statement of the facts, and that no concealment is practised with their surveyor; and the case of his own, which he quotes, in which a glass door led into a conservatory, rendering it, according to the view of the company, "hazardous," and consequently voiding the policy, when a fire did occur, the company paid, rather than try the question; but even after the fire they demurred, when called upon, to make the description correct and indorse on the policy the fact that the drawing-room opened through a glass door into conservatories. One of two inferences is obvious here; either his lordship has overcoloured the statement, or the company could not be the respectable one represented. The practice with all reputable offices is to survey the premises before insurance, and to describe them as they appear; but no concealment of stoves, or other dangerous accessories or inflammable goods, should be practised. This certainly binds the office so long as no change takes place; but the addition of any stove, opening, or door through a party wall, the introduction of gunpowder, saltpetre, or other inflammable articles into the premises without notice, very properly "voids the policy." The usual course is to give notice of all alterations, and have them indorse on the policy, as additions to the description of the property: there is little fear, where this is honestly done, that any company would adopt the sharp practice hinted at in Lord St. Leonards' excellent handy book.
2710. Lord St. Leonards claims that "his fire policies are not structured to make the company legally liable." Generally, properties are inaccurately described regarding the conditions under which you insure them. These conditions are set by companies that likely don't mind having a legal defense against any claims, as they plan to pay what they consider just claims without exploiting any technical objections and intend to use their defense only against what they think is fraud, even if they can't prove it. "But," says his lordship, "do not rely on the moral principles of the directors. Make sure your house strictly meets the conditions. Even having the company's surveyor inspect your house before the insurance won't protect you unless your policy is accurate." This is true; however, his lordship's legal caution might be exaggerating the issue. Insurance companies only require an honest account of the facts and insist that no concealment occurs with their surveyor. In his own example, where a glass door led into a conservatory, making it “hazardous” in the company's view and voiding the policy when a fire occurred, the company paid out instead of contesting the issue. Yet even post-fire, they hesitated to correct the description and note on the policy that the drawing-room opened through a glass door into conservatories. One of two conclusions is clear here: either his lordship has overstated the situation, or the company isn't as respectable as portrayed. Reputable companies usually inspect the premises before insuring and describe them accurately, but no concealment of stoves or other dangerous items or flammable goods should happen. This certainly holds the office accountable as long as no changes are made; however, adding any stove, opening, or door through a wall, or introducing gunpowder, saltpeter, or other flammable materials into the premises without notice rightfully "voids the policy." The usual practice is to notify all changes and have them documented on the policy as part of the property's description; when this is done honestly, there's little worry that any company would engage in the unethical practices hinted at in Lord St. Leonards' excellent handy book.
2711. BREAKS IN THE LEASE.—Where a lease is for seven, fourteen, or twenty-one years, the option to determine it at the end of the first term is in the tenant, unless it is distinctly agreed that the option shall be mutual, according to Lord St. Leonards.
2711. BREAKS IN THE LEASE.—If a lease lasts seven, fourteen, or twenty-one years, the tenant has the right to end it at the end of the first term, unless it’s clearly agreed that the option to end the lease is mutual, according to Lord St. Leonards.
2712. NOXIOUS TRADES.—A clause is usually introduced prohibiting the carrying on of any trade in some houses, and of noxious or particular trades in others. This clause should be jealously inspected, otherwise great annoyance may be produced. It has been held that a general clause of this description prohibited a tenant from keeping a school, for which he had taken it, although a lunatic asylum and public-house have been found admissible; the keeping an asylum not being deemed a trade, which is defined as "conducted by buying and selling." It is better to have the trades, or class of trades objected to, defined in the lease.
2712. NOXIOUS TRADES.—A clause is usually included that bans certain types of trades in some houses and specifically harmful or particular trades in others. This clause should be carefully reviewed; otherwise, it may cause significant issues. It has been determined that a general clause like this prevented a tenant from operating a school, despite having rented the space for that purpose, while a lunatic asylum and a pub were allowed; running an asylum wasn't considered a trade since it's defined as "conducted by buying and selling." It’s better to specify the trades or categories of trades that are not allowed in the lease.
2713. FIXTURES.—In houses held under lease, it has been the practice with landlords to lease the bare walls of the tenement only, leaving the lessee to put in the stoves, cupboards, and such other conveniences as he requires, at his own option. Those, except under particular circumstances, are the property of the lessee, and may either be sold to an incoming tenant, or removed at the end of his term. The articles which may not be removed are subject to considerable doubt, and are a fruitful source of dispute. Mr. Commissioner Fonblanque has defined as tenants' property all goods and chattels; 2ndly, all articles "slightly connected one with another, and with the freehold, but capable of being separated without materially injuring the freehold;" 3rdly, articles fixed to the freehold by nails and screws, bolts or pegs, are also tenants' goods and chattels; but when sunk in the soil, or built on it, they are integral parts of the freehold, and cannot be removed. Thus, a greenhouse or conservatory attached to the house by the tenant is not removable; but the furnace and hot-water pipes by which it is heated, may be removed or sold to the in-coming tenant. A brick flue does not come under the same category, but remains. Window-blinds, grates, stoves, coffee-mills, and, in a general sense, everything he has placed which can be removed without injury to the freehold, he may remove, if they are separated from the tenement during his term, and the place made good. It is not unusual to leave the fixtures in their place, with an undertaking from the landlord that, when again let, the in-coming tenant shall pay for them, or permit their removal. In a recent case, however, a tenant having held over beyond his term and not removed his fixtures, the landlord let the premises to a new tenant, who entered into possession, and would not allow the fixtures to be removed—it was held by the courts, on trial, that he was justified. A similar case occurred to the writer: he left his fixtures in the house, taking a letter from the landlord, undertaking that the in-coming tenant should pay for them by valuation, or permit their removal. The house was let; the landlord died. His executors, on being applied to, pleaded ignorance, as did the tenant, and on being furnished with a copy of the letter, the executors told applicant that if he was aggrieved, he knew his remedy; namely, an action at law. He thought the first loss the least, and has not altered his opinion.
2713. FIXTURES.—In rental properties, it’s common for landlords to lease just the bare walls, leaving the tenant to install their own stoves, cabinets, and other essentials as they see fit. Generally, these additions belong to the tenant and can be sold to a new tenant or taken out when the lease ends. There's a lot of confusion about what items can't be removed, which often leads to disputes. Mr. Commissioner Fonblanque categorized tenants' property as: 1) all goods and personal items; 2) items that are "slightly connected to one another and the property, but can be taken out without damaging the property;" and 3) items secured with nails, screws, bolts, or pegs, which also count as tenant property. However, anything that’s built into the ground or permanently attached to it is considered part of the property and cannot be removed. For example, a greenhouse or conservatory attached by the tenant isn't removable, but the furnace and hot-water pipes used to heat it can be taken out or sold to the new tenant. A brick flue doesn’t fall into this category and stays put. Window blinds, grates, stoves, coffee mills, and essentially anything the tenant has put in that can be removed without harming the property can be taken out, provided they are separated from the property during the lease and the space is restored. It's not uncommon for tenants to leave fixtures in place with an agreement from the landlord that the new tenant will pay for them or allow their removal. However, in a recent case, a tenant who stayed past their lease and didn’t take their fixtures ended up with a landlord who rented the place to someone new. That new tenant wouldn’t let the fixtures be taken out, and the courts ruled in their favor. A similar situation happened to me: I left my fixtures and got a letter from the landlord stating that the new tenant would pay for them or allow their removal. The house was rented out, and then the landlord died. His executors claimed they didn’t know about the arrangement, nor did the new tenant. When I showed them the letter, the executors told me that if I was upset, I should pursue legal action. I decided that losing them was the better option and still stand by that choice.
2714. TAXES.—Land-tax, sewers-rate, and property-tax, are landlord's taxes; but by 30 Geo. II. c. 2, the occupier is required to pay all rates levied, and deduct from the rent such taxes as belong to the landlord. Many landlords now insert a covenant, stipulating that land-tax and sewers-rate are to be paid by the tenants, and not deducted: this does not apply to the property-tax. All other taxes and rates are payable by the occupier.
2714. TAXES.—Land tax, sewer rates, and property tax are the landlord's taxes; however, under 30 Geo. II. c. 2, the occupant is required to pay all rates that are charged and can deduct from the rent those taxes that are the landlord’s responsibility. Many landlords now include a clause stating that land tax and sewer rates must be paid by the tenants and not be deducted: this does not apply to the property tax. All other taxes and rates are to be paid by the occupant.
2715. WATER-RATE, of course, is paid by the tenant. The water-companies, as well as gas-companies, have the power of cutting off the supply; and most of them have also the right of distraining, in the same manner as landlords have for rent.
2715. The water bill is, of course, paid by the tenant. Both water and gas companies have the authority to cut off the supply, and most of them also have the right to seize property, just like landlords can for unpaid rent.
2716. NOTICE TO QUIT.—In the case of leasing for a term, no notice is necessary; the tenant quits, as a matter of course, at its termination; or if, by tacit consent, he remains paying rent as heretofore, he becomes a tenant at sufferance, or from year to year. Half a year's notice now becomes necessary, as we have already seen, to terminate the tenancy; except in London, and the rent is under forty shillings, when a quarter's notice is sufficient. Either of these notices may be given verbally, if it can be proved that the notice was definite, and given at the right time. Form of notice is quite immaterial, provided it is definite and clear in its purport.
2716. NOTICE TO QUIT.—When leasing for a specific term, no notice is needed; the tenant naturally vacates at the end of the lease. If the tenant stays on with the landlord's implied consent and continues paying rent as before, they become a tenant at sufferance or a year-to-year tenant. As we've already discussed, a half year's notice is now required to end the tenancy, except in London where the rent is under forty shillings, in which case a quarter's notice is enough. Any of these notices can be given verbally, as long as it's proven that the notice was clear and given at the appropriate time. The format of the notice doesn’t matter, as long as it is definite and clear in its meaning.
2717. Tenancy for less than a year may be terminated according to the taking. Thus, when taken for three months, a three months' notice is required; when monthly, a month's notice; and when weekly, a week's notice; but weekly tenancy is changed to a quarterly tenure if the rent is allowed to stand over for three months. When taken for a definite time, as a month, a week, or a quarter, no notice is necessary on either side.
2717. A tenancy for less than a year can be ended based on its frequency. For example, if it’s for three months, a three-month notice is needed; if it’s monthly, a month’s notice; and if it’s weekly, a week’s notice. However, if the rent is unpaid for three months, a weekly tenancy automatically changes to a quarterly one. If the tenancy is taken for a specific period, like a month, a week, or a quarter, no notice is required from either side.
2718. DILAPIDATIONS.—At the termination of a lease, supposing he has not done so before, a landlord can, and usually does, send a surveyor to report upon the condition of the tenement, and it becomes his duty to ferret out every defect. A litigious landlord may drag the outgoing tenant into an expensive lawsuit, which he has no power to prevent. He may even compel him to pay for repairing improvements which he has effected in the tenement itself, if dilapidations exist. When the lessor covenants to do all repairs, and fails to do so, the lessee may repair, and deduct the cost from the rent.
2718. DILAPIDATIONS.—At the end of a lease, if he hasn't done so already, a landlord can, and typically does, send a surveyor to check the condition of the property, and it's his job to uncover every issue. A litigious landlord might pull the outgoing tenant into a costly lawsuit, which they can't prevent. He may even force them to pay for fixing improvements he made to the property if there are any dilapidations. When the landlord agrees to handle all repairs but fails to do so, the tenant can make the repairs and deduct the cost from the rent.
2719. RECOVERY OF RENT.—The remedies placed in the hands of landlords are very stringent. The day after rent falls due, he may proceed to recover it, by action at law, by distress on the premises, or by action of ejectment, if the rent is half a year in arrear. Distress is the remedy usually applied, the landlord being authorized to enter the premises, seize the goods and chattels of his tenant, and sell them, on the fifth day, to reimburse himself for all arrears of rent and the charges of the distress. There are a few exceptions; but, generally, all goods found on the premises may be seized. The exceptions are—dogs, rabbits, poultry, fish, tools and implements of a man's trade actually in use, the books of a scholar, the axe of a carpenter, wearing apparel on the person, a horse at the plough, or a horse he may be riding, a watch in the pocket, loose money, deeds, writings, the cattle at a smithy forge, corn sent to a mill for grinding, cattle and goods of a guest at an inn; but, curiously enough, carriages and horses standing at livery at the same inn may be taken. Distress can only be levied in the daytime, and if made after the tender of arrears, it is illegal. If tender is made after the distress, but before it is impounded, the landlord must abandon the distress and bear the cost himself. Nothing of a perishable nature, which cannot be restored in the same condition—as milk, fruit, and the like, must be taken.
2719. RECOVERY OF RENT.—The options available to landlords are quite strict. The day after rent is due, they can take legal action to recover it, seize items on the property, or take action to evict the tenant if the rent is six months overdue. The most common method is distress, where the landlord is allowed to enter the property, take the tenant's belongings, and sell them on the fifth day to cover any unpaid rent and the costs associated with the distress. There are a few exceptions, but generally, all items found on the property can be seized. The exceptions include—dogs, rabbits, poultry, fish, tools and equipment for someone’s trade that are currently in use, a student's books, a carpenter's axe, clothing worn on the person, a horse that’s plowing or one being ridden, a watch in a pocket, loose cash, legal documents, livestock at a blacksmith's forge, grain sent to a mill for grinding, and the belongings of a guest at an inn; however, oddly enough, carriages and horses at the same inn can be taken. Distress can only be carried out during the day, and if it happens after payment of the arrears is offered, it's considered illegal. If a payment offer is made after the seizure but before the items are impounded, the landlord must cancel the distress and cover the costs themselves. No perishable items that can’t be restored to their original condition—like milk, fruit, and similar things—should be taken.
2720. The law does not regard a day as consisting of portions. The popular notion that a notice to quit should be served before noon is an error. Although distraint is one of the remedies, it is seldom advisable in a landlord to resort to distraining for the recovery of rent. If a tenant cannot pay his rent, the sooner he leaves the premises the better. If he be a rogue and won't pay, he will probably know that nine out of ten distresses are illegal, through the carelessness, ignorance, or extortion of the brokers who execute them. Many, if not most, of the respectable brokers will not execute distresses, and the business falls into the hands of persons whom it is by no means desirable to employ.
2720. The law does not view a day as made up of parts. The common belief that a notice to quit should be given before noon is a misunderstanding. While distraint is one of the remedies available, it's rarely wise for a landlord to use it to recover rent. If a tenant can't pay rent, it's better for him to leave the property as soon as possible. If he’s being difficult and refuses to pay, he probably knows that nine out of ten distresses are unlawful, due to the carelessness, ignorance, or greed of the brokers who carry them out. Many, if not most, reputable brokers won’t handle distresses, leaving the task to individuals who are not ideal for the job.
2721. Powers to relieve landlords of premises, by giving them legal possession, are given by 19 & 20 Vict., cap. 108, to the county courts, in cases where the rent does not exceed £50 per annum, and under the circumstances hereinafter mentioned; i.e.:—
2721. The authority to help landlords reclaim their properties by granting them legal possession is provided to the county courts by 19 & 20 Vict., cap. 108, in cases where the rent is no more than £50 per year, and under the circumstances detailed below; i.e.:—
1. Where the term has expired, or been determined by notice to quit.
1. When the lease has ended, or has been terminated by a notice to leave.
2. Where there is one half-year's rent in arrear, and the landlord shall have right by law to enter for the nonpayment thereof. As proof of this power is required, the importance of including such a power in the agreement for tenancy will be obvious.
2. When there is a half-year's rent overdue, the landlord has the legal right to enter for the nonpayment of it. It should be clear how important it is to include this right in the rental agreement.
In the county courts the amount of rent due may be claimed, as well as the possession of the premises, in one summons.
In the county courts, you can claim both the amount of rent owed and possession of the property in a single summons.
2722. When a tenant deserts premises, leaving one half-year's rent in arrear, possession may be recovered by means of the police-court. The rent must not exceed £20 per annum, and must be at least three-fourths of the value of the premises. In cases in which the tenant has not deserted the premises, and where notice to quit has been given and has expired, the landlord must give notice to the tenant of his intended application. The annual rent in this case, also, must not exceed £20.
2722. When a tenant abandons a property, leaving six months’ rent unpaid, possession can be reclaimed through the police court. The rent cannot be more than £20 per year and must be at least three-quarters of the property's value. If the tenant has not abandoned the property and a notice to quit has been given and has expired, the landlord must notify the tenant of their intended application. The annual rent in this case also cannot exceed £20.
2723. THE I. O. U.—The law is not particular as to orthography; in fact, it distinctly refuses to recognize the existence of that delightful science. You may bring your action against Mr. Jacob Phillips, under the fanciful denomination of Jaycobb Fillipse, if you like, and the law won't care, because the law goes by ear; and, although it insists upon having everything written, things written are only supposed in law to have any meaning when read, which is, after all, a common-sense rule enough. So, instead of "I owe you," persons of a cheerful disposition, so frequently found connected with debt, used to write facetiously I. O. U., and the law approved of their so doing. An I. O. U. is nothing more than a written admission of a debt, and may run thus:—
2723. THE I. O. U.—The law isn't picky about spelling; in fact, it outright ignores that charming subject. You can take action against Mr. Jacob Phillips, calling him Jaycobb Fillipse if you want, and the law won't mind, because the law is based on how things sound; and even though it requires everything to be in writing, those written words only have meaning when they're read, which makes sense. So, instead of saying "I owe you," people with a good sense of humor, often associated with borrowing money, would jokingly write I. O. U., and the law was okay with that. An I. O. U. is simply a written acknowledgment of a debt, and it might look like this:—
15th October, 1860. To Mr. W. BROWN.
15th October, 1860. To Mr. W. BROWN.
I. O. U. ten pounds for coals.
I owe you ten pounds for coal.
£10. JOHN JONES.
If to this you add the time of payment, as "payable in one month from this date," your I. O. U. is worthless and illegal; for it thus ceases to be a mere acknowledgment, and becomes a promissory note. Now a promissory note requires a stamp, which an I. O. U. does not. Many persons, nevertheless, stick penny stamps upon them, probably for ornamental effect, or to make them look serious and authoritative. If for the former purpose, the postage-stamp looks better than the receipt stamp upon blue paper. If you are W. Brown, and you didn't see the I. O. U. signed, and can't find anybody who knows Jones's autograph, and Jones won't pay, the I. O. U. will be of no use to you in the county court, except to make the judge laugh. He will, however, allow you to prove the consideration, and as, of course, you won't be prepared to do anything of the sort, he will, if you ask him politely, adjourn the hearing for a week, when you can produce the coalheavers who delivered the article, and thus gain a glorious victory.
If you add a payment term like "payable in one month from this date," your I.O.U. becomes worthless and illegal; it stops being just an acknowledgment and turns into a promissory note. A promissory note needs a stamp, while an I.O.U. doesn’t. Still, many people stick penny stamps on them, likely to make them look more official or serious. If that’s the case, a postage stamp looks better than the blue receipt stamp. If you're W. Brown and didn't see the I.O.U. signed, can't find anyone who recognizes Jones's signature, and Jones refuses to pay, the I.O.U. won’t help you in county court, except maybe to make the judge laugh. However, he will let you prove the consideration, and since you probably won’t be ready to do that, he’ll adjourn the hearing for a week if you kindly ask him, giving you time to bring in the coalheavers who delivered the goods and win the case.
2724. APPRENTICES.—By the statute 5 Eliz. cap. 4, it is enacted that, in cases of ill-usage by masters towards apprentices, or of neglect of duty by apprentices, the complaining party may apply to a justice of the peace, who may make such order as equity may require. If, for want of conformity on the part of the master, this cannot be done, then the master may be bound to appear at the next sessions. Authority is given by the act to the justices in sessions to discharge the apprentice from his indentures. They are also empowered, on proof of misbehaviour of the apprentice, to order him to be corrected or imprisoned with hard labour.
2724. APPRENTICES.—According to statute 5 Eliz. cap. 4, if an apprentice is mistreated by their master or fails to fulfill their duties, the affected party can go to a justice of the peace, who can make any necessary orders. If the master does not comply, they may have to appear at the next session. The act gives justices the authority to release the apprentice from their indentures. They can also order the apprentice to be corrected or imprisoned with hard labor if there is proof of misconduct.
2725. HUSBAND AND WIFE.—Contrary to the vulgar opinion, second cousins, as well as first, may legally marry. When married, a husband is liable for his wife's debts contracted before marriage. A creditor desirous of suing for such a claim should proceed against both. It will, however, be sufficient if the husband be served with process, the names of both appearing therein, thus:—John Jones and Ann his wife. A married woman, if sued alone, may plead her marriage, or, as it is called in law, coverture. The husband is liable for debts of his wife contracted for necessaries while living with him. If she voluntarily leaves his protection, this liability ceases. He is also liable for any debts contracted by her with his authority. If the husband have abjured the realm, or been transported by a sentence of law, the wife is liable during his absence, as if she were a single woman, for debts contracted by her.
2725. HUSBAND AND WIFE.—Contrary to popular belief, second cousins, just like first cousins, can legally marry. Once married, a husband is responsible for his wife’s debts that were incurred before the marriage. If a creditor wants to sue for such a debt, they should take action against both the husband and wife. However, it’s enough to serve the husband with the legal documents, listing both their names like this:—John Jones and Ann his wife. If a married woman is sued on her own, she can claim her marriage, or what’s legally known as coverture. The husband is responsible for his wife’s debts incurred for necessary expenses while they are living together. If she voluntarily leaves his care, this responsibility ends. He is also accountable for any debts she incurs with his permission. If the husband has renounced his citizenship or has been exiled by a legal judgment, the wife is responsible during his absence, as if she were single, for debts she incurs.
2726. In civil cases, a wife may now give evidence on behalf of her husband in criminal cases she can neither be a witness for or against her husband. The case of assault by him upon her forms an exception to this rule.
2726. In civil cases, a wife can now testify for her husband, but in criminal cases, she cannot be a witness for or against him. However, if he assaults her, that situation is an exception to this rule.
2727. The law does not at this day admit the ancient principle of allowing moderate correction by a husband upon the person of his wife. Although this is said to have been anciently limited to the use of "a stick not bigger than the thumb," this barbarity is now altogether exploded. He may, notwithstanding, as has been recently shown in the famous Agapemone case, keep her under restraint, to prevent her leaving him, provided this be effected without cruelty.
2727. The law today no longer accepts the old principle that allowed a husband to physically correct his wife in moderation. Although it was once said that this was limited to using “a stick no bigger than the thumb,” that kind of barbarity is now completely rejected. However, as recently demonstrated in the well-known Agapemone case, he can still keep her from leaving, as long as this is done without cruelty.
2728. By the Divorce and Matrimonial Causes Act, 1857, a wife deserted by her husband may apply to a magistrate, or to the petty sessions, for an order to protect her lawful earnings or property acquired by her after such desertion, from her husband and his creditors. In this case it is indispensable that such order shall, within ten days, be entered at the county court of the district within which she resides. It will be seen that the basis of an application for such an order is desertion. Consequently, where the parties have separated by common consent, such an order cannot be obtained, any previous cruelty or misconduct on the husband's part notwithstanding.
2728. According to the Divorce and Matrimonial Causes Act of 1857, a wife who has been abandoned by her husband can request a magistrate or attend petty sessions for an order to safeguard her legal earnings or property she acquires after the abandonment, protecting it from her husband and his creditors. In this case, it is essential that such an order is filed within ten days at the county court in the district where she lives. It's important to note that the grounds for applying for this order is desertion. Therefore, if the parties have separated by mutual agreement, this order cannot be requested, even if there was previous cruelty or wrongdoing by the husband.
2729. When a husband allows his wife to invest money in her own name in a savings-bank, and he survives her, it is sometimes the rule of such establishments to compel him to take out administration in order to receive such money, although it is questionable whether such rule is legally justifiable. Widows and widowers pay no legacy-duty for property coming to them through their deceased partners.
2729. When a husband lets his wife invest money in her own name in a savings bank, and he outlives her, it can be the policy of those banks to require him to take out administration to claim that money, even though it's debatable whether this policy is legally valid. Widows and widowers do not owe any inheritance tax for property they inherit from their deceased partners.
2730. RECEIPTS for sums above £2 should now be given upon penny stamps. A bill of exchange may nevertheless be discharged by an indorsement stating that it has been paid, and this will not be liable to the stamp. A receipt is not, as commonly supposed, conclusive evidence as to a payment. It is only what the law terms primâ facie evidence; that is, good until contradicted or explained. Thus, if A sends wares or merchandise to B, with a receipt, as a hint that the transaction is intended to be for ready money, and B detain the receipt without paying the cash, A will be at liberty to prove the circumstances and to recover his claim. The evidence to rebut the receipt must, however, be clear and indubitable, as, after all, written evidence is of a stronger nature than oral testimony.
2730. RECEIPTS for amounts over £2 should now be given on penny stamps. A bill of exchange can still be settled by an endorsement that states it has been paid, and this won't be subject to the stamp duty. A receipt is not, as often believed, definitive proof of payment. It is only what the law calls primâ facie evidence; that is, valid until proven otherwise or explained. Therefore, if A sends goods or merchandise to B, along with a receipt, indicating that the transaction is meant to be for cash, and B keeps the receipt without paying, A can present evidence to support his claim and recover his money. However, the evidence to contradict the receipt must be clear and indisputable, as written evidence is ultimately stronger than verbal testimony.
2731. BOOKS OF ACCOUNT.—A tradesman's books of account cannot be received as evidence in his own behalf, unless the entries therein be proved to have been brought under the notice of, and admitted to be correct by the other party, as is commonly the case with the "pass-books" employed backwards and forwards between bakers, butchers, and the like domestic traders, and their customers. The defendant may, however, compel the tradesman to produce his books to show entries adverse to his own claim.
2731. BOOKS OF ACCOUNT.—A business owner's account books cannot be used as evidence in their favor unless it’s shown that the other party was aware of the entries and agreed they were correct, which is often the case with the "pass-books" used back and forth between bakers, butchers, and similar local vendors and their customers. However, the defendant can require the business owner to produce their books to show entries that go against their own claim.
2732. WILLS.—The last proof of affection which we can give to those left behind, is to leave their worldly affairs in such a state as to excite neither jealousy, nor anger, nor heartrendings of any kind, at least for the immediate future. This can only be done by a just, clear, and intelligible disposal of whatever there is to leave. Without being advocates for every man being his own lawyer, it is not to be denied that the most elaborately prepared wills have been the most fruitful sources of litigation, and it has even happened that learned judges left wills behind them which could not be carried out. Except in cases where the property is in land or in leases of complicated tenure, very elaborate details are unnecessary; and we counsel no man to use words in making his will of which he does not perfectly understand the meaning and import.
2732. WILLS.—The final sign of love we can show to those we leave behind is to manage our affairs in a way that doesn’t cause jealousy, anger, or heartache, at least in the near future. This can only be achieved by having a fair, clear, and understandable plan for what we leave behind. While we don’t advocate for everyone to be their own lawyer, it’s undeniable that the most complicated wills often lead to the most legal disputes, and there have even been cases where knowledgeable judges left behind wills that couldn’t be executed. Unless the property involves land or complex leases, there’s no need for excessive detail; we advise against using words in your will that you don’t fully understand.
2733. All men over twenty-one years of age, and of sound mind, and all unmarried women of like age and sanity, may by will bequeath their property to whom they please. Infants, that is, all persons under twenty-one years of age, and married women, except where they have an estate to their "own separate use," are incapacitated, without the concurrence of the husband; the law taking the disposal of any property they die possessed of. A person born deaf and dumb cannot make a will, unless there is evidence that he could read and comprehend its contents. A person convicted of felony cannot make a will, unless subsequently pardoned; neither can persons outlawed; but the wife of a felon transported for life may make a will, and act in all respects as if she were unmarried. A suicide may bequeath real estate, but personal property is forfeited to the crown.
2733. All men over the age of twenty-one, and of sound mind, and all unmarried women of the same age and sanity, can leave their property to anyone they choose through a will. Minors, meaning anyone under twenty-one, and married women, unless they have an estate for their "own separate use," cannot do so without their husband's agreement; the law decides the fate of any property they own at the time of their death. A person who is born deaf and mute cannot create a will unless there is proof that they could read and understand its details. A person convicted of a felony cannot make a will unless they are pardoned later; the same goes for outlaws; however, the wife of a felon who has been sentenced to transportation for life can make a will and act as if she is unmarried in all respects. A suicide can leave real estate in a will, but personal property is forfeited to the crown.
2734. Except in the case of soldiers on actual service, and sailors at sea, every will must be made in writing. It must be signed by the testator, or by some other person in his presence, and at his request, and the signature must be made or acknowledged in the presence of two or more witnesses, who are required to be present at the same time, who declare by signing that the will was signed by the testator, or acknowledged in their presence, and that they signed as witnesses in testator's presence.
2734. Except for soldiers on active duty and sailors at sea, every will must be in writing. It has to be signed by the person making the will, or by someone else at their request and in their presence. The signature must be made or confirmed in front of two or more witnesses, who must all be present at the same time. These witnesses need to sign, stating that the will was signed by the testator or acknowledged in their presence, and that they signed as witnesses while in the testator's presence.
2735. By the act of 1852 it was enacted that no will shall be valid unless signed at the foot or end thereof by the testator, or by some person in his presence, and by his direction; but a subsequent act proceeds to say that every will shall, as far only as regards the position of the signature of the testator, or of the person signing for him, be deemed valid if the signature shall be so placed at, or after, or following, or under, or beside, or opposite to the end of the will, that it shall be apparent on the face of it that the testator intended to give it effect by such signature. Under this clause, a will of several sheets, all of which were duly signed, except the last one, has been refused probate; while, on the other hand, a similar document has been admitted to probate where the last sheet only, and none of the other sheets, was signed. In order to be perfectly formal, however, each separate sheet should be numbered, signed, and witnessed, and attested on the last sheet. This witnessing is an important act: the witnesses must subscribe it in the presence of the testator and of each other; and by their signature they testify to having witnessed the signature of the testator, he being in sound mind at the time. Wills made under any kind of coercion, or even importunity may become void, being contrary to the wishes of the testator. Fraud or imposition also renders a will void, and where two wills made by the same person happen to exist, neither of them dated, the maker of the wills is declared to have died intestate.
2735. The 1852 law stated that a will isn't valid unless it’s signed at the bottom or end by the person making the will, or by someone in their presence and at their direction. However, a later law clarifies that a will will be considered valid regarding where the signature is placed, as long as it’s apparent that the person intended to validate the will with that signature, whether it’s at, after, following, under, beside, or opposite the end of the will. Because of this rule, a will made up of several sheets, where all of them were signed except the last one, was denied probate; while another similar will was accepted for probate even though only the last sheet was signed. To be completely formal, each separate sheet should be numbered, signed, witnessed, and attested on the last sheet. This witnessing is crucial: the witnesses must sign it in front of the testator and each other; by signing, they confirm they witnessed the testator's signature while the testator was mentally competent. Wills made under any form of pressure or insistence can be void, as they contradict the testator's true wishes. Fraud or deception can also invalidate a will, and if two wills exist from the same person without dates, the maker is considered to have died without a valid will.
2736. A will may always be revoked and annulled, but only by burning or entirely destroying the writing, or by adding a codicil, or making a subsequent will duly attested; but as the alteration of a will is only a revocation to the extent of the alteration, if it is intended to revoke the original will entirely, such intention should be declared,—no merely verbal directions can revoke a written will; and the act of running the pen through the signatures, or down the page, is not sufficient to cancel it, without a written declaration to that effect signed and witnessed.
2736. A will can always be revoked and canceled, but only by burning or completely destroying the document, or by adding a codicil, or by creating a new will that is properly witnessed. However, since changing a will only revokes it to the extent of the change, if someone wants to completely revoke the original will, they must clearly state that intention—simply saying something out loud won’t revoke a written will. Additionally, just crossing out the signatures or drawing a line down the page isn’t enough to cancel it without a written declaration to that effect that is signed and witnessed.
2737. A will made before marriage is revoked thereby.
2737. A will made before getting married is canceled because of the marriage.
2738. A codicil is a supplement or addition to a will, either explaining or altering former dispositions; it may be written on the same or separate paper, and is to be witnessed and attested in the same manner as the original document.
2738. A codicil is an addition or supplement to a will, either clarifying or changing previous decisions; it can be written on the same paper or a different one, and must be witnessed and signed in the same way as the original document.
2739. WITNESSES.—Any persons are qualified to witness a will who can write their names; but such witness cannot be benefitted by the will. If a legacy is granted to the persons witnessing, it is void. The same rule applies to the husband or wife of a witness; a bequest made to either of these is void.
2739. WITNESSES.—Anyone who can sign their name is qualified to witness a will; however, those witnesses cannot benefit from the will. If a legacy is given to the witnesses, it is invalid. The same rule applies to the spouse of a witness; any gift made to either of them is invalid.
2740. FORM OF WILLS.—Form is unimportant, provided the testator's intention is clear. It should commence with his designation; that is, his name and surname, place of abode, profession, or occupation. The legatees should also be clearly described. In leaving a legacy to a married woman, if no trustees are appointed over it, and no specific directions given, "that it is for her sole and separate use, free from the control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband," the husband will be entitled to the legacy. In the same manner a legacy to an unmarried woman will vest in her husband after marriage, unless a settlement of it is made on her before marriage.
2740. FORM OF WILLS.—The form is not important as long as the testator's intention is clear. It should start with their name, including their first and last name, where they live, and their job or occupation. The beneficiaries should also be clearly identified. When leaving a legacy to a married woman, if no trustees are appointed and there are no specific instructions stating that it is for her exclusive use, free from her husband’s control, debts, and claims, then the husband will be entitled to the legacy. Similarly, a legacy to an unmarried woman will go to her husband once they are married, unless a settlement has been arranged for her before the marriage.
2741. In sudden emergencies a form may be useful, and the following has been considered a good one for a death-bed will, where the assistance of a solicitor could not be obtained; indeed, few solicitors can prepare a will on the spur of the moment: they require time and legal forms, which are by no means necessary, before they can act.
2741. In unexpected situations, a form can be helpful, and the one below is often seen as a good option for a death-bed will when a lawyer isn't available; in fact, most lawyers can't create a will on short notice: they need time and legal documents, which aren't really needed, before they can proceed.
I, A.B., of No. 10, ——, Street, in the city of —— [gentleman, builder, or grocer, as the case may be,] being of sound mind, thus publish and declare my last will and testament. Revoking and annulling all former dispositions of my property, I give and bequeath as follows:—to my son J.B., of ——, I give and bequeath the sum of —-; to my daughter M., the wife of J., of ——, I give and bequeath the sum of —— [if intended for her own use, add "to her sole and separate use, free from the control, debts, and incumbrances of her husband"], both in addition to any sum or sums of money or other property they have before had from me. All the remaining property I die possessed of I leave to my dear wife M. B., for her sole and separate use during her natural life, together with my house and furniture, situate at No. 10, —— Street, aforesaid. At her death, I desire that the said house shall be sold, with all the goods and chattels therein [or, I give and bequeath the said house, with all the goods and chattels therein, to ——], and the money realized from the sale, together with that in which my said wife had a life-interest, I give and bequeath in equal moieties to my son and daughter before named. I appoint my dear friend T.S., of ——, and T.B., of ——, together with my wife M.B., as executors to this my last will and testament.
I, A.B., of No. 10, ——, Street, in the city of —— [gentleman, builder, or grocer, as the case may be,] being of sound mind, hereby publish and declare my last will and testament. I revoke and cancel all previous arrangements regarding my property and bequeath as follows:—to my son J.B., of ——, I give the sum of —-; to my daughter M., the wife of J., of ——, I give the sum of —— [if intended for her personal use, add "to her sole and separate use, free from the control, debts, and claims of her husband"], both in addition to any money or property they have previously received from me. All the remaining property that I own I leave to my dear wife M. B., for her sole and separate use during her lifetime, including my house and furniture located at No. 10, —— Street, mentioned above. Upon her death, I wish for the house to be sold, along with all the goods and belongings inside [or, I give and bequeath the house, with all the goods and belongings inside, to ——], and the money obtained from the sale, along with any funds that my wife had a life interest in, I give and bequeath in equal shares to my previously mentioned son and daughter. I appoint my dear friend T.S., of ——, and T.B., of ——, along with my wife M.B., as executors of this my last will and testament.
Signed by A.B., this 10th day of October, 1861, in our presence, both being present together, and both having signed as witnesses, in the presence of the testator:—A.B.
Signed by A.B., this 10th day of October, 1861, in our presence, both being there together, and both having signed as witnesses, in the presence of the testator:—A.B.
T.S., Witness. F.M., Witness.
T.S., Witness. F.M., Witness.
It is to be observed that the signature of the testator after this attestation has been signed by the witnesses, is not a compliance with the act; he must sign first.
It should be noted that the testator's signature after this attestation has been signed by the witnesses does not meet the requirements of the act; he must sign first.
2742. STAMP-DUTIES.—In the case of persons dying intestate, when their effects are administered to by their family, the stamp-duty is half as much more as it would have been under a will. Freehold and copyhold estates are now subject to a special impost on passing, by the Stamp Act of 1857.
2742. STAMP-DUTIES.—In cases where people die without a will and their family handles the estate, the stamp duty is 50% higher than it would have been if there was a will. Freehold and copyhold estates now have a specific charge when they change hands, due to the Stamp Act of 1857.
2743. The legacy-duty only commences when it amounts to £20 and upwards; and where it is not directed otherwise, the duty is deducted from the legacy.
2743. The inheritance tax only starts when it reaches £20 or more; and unless stated otherwise, the tax is taken out of the inheritance.
2744. You cannot compound for past absence of charity by bequeathing land or tenements, or money to purchase such, to any charitable use, by your last will and testament; but you may devise them to the British Museum, to either of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, to Eton, Winchester, and Westminster; and you may, if so inclined, leave it for the augmentation of Queen Anne's bounty. You may, however, order your executors to sell land and hand over the money received to any charitable institution.
2744. You can't make up for not being charitable in the past by leaving land, property, or money for such purposes in your will. However, you can bequeath it to the British Museum, either of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, or to Eton, Winchester, and Westminster; you can also choose to leave it for the increase of Queen Anne's bounty. Nonetheless, you can instruct your executors to sell the land and give the money to any charitable organization.
2745. In making provision for a wife, state whether it is in lieu of, or in addition to, dower.
2745. When providing for a wife, specify whether it replaces or adds to the dower.
2746. If you have advanced money to any child, and taken an acknowledgment for it, or entered it in any book of account, you should declare whether any legacy left by will is in addition to such advance, or whether it is to be deducted from the legacy.
2746. If you have given any money to a child and have a record of it or noted it in an account book, you should specify whether any inheritance left in a will is meant to be in addition to that advance or if it should be subtracted from the inheritance.
2747. A legacy left by will to any one would be cancelled by your leaving another legacy by a codicil to the same person, unless it is stated to be in addition to the former bequest.
2747. A legacy given by will to someone would be canceled if you leave another legacy to the same person through a codicil, unless it’s stated to be in addition to the previous gift.
2748. Your entire estate is chargeable with your debts, except where the real estate is settled. Let it be distinctly stated out of which property, the real or personal, they are paid, where it consists of both.
2748. Your whole estate is responsible for your debts, except when the real estate is secured. It should be clearly stated from which property, whether real or personal, they are paid if it includes both.
2749. Whatever is devised, let the intention be clearly expressed, and without any condition, if you intend it to take effect.
2749. Whatever is planned, make sure the intention is clearly stated and without any conditions if you want it to be effective.
2750. Attestation is not necessary to a will, as the act of witnessing is all the law requires, and the will itself declares the testator to be of sound mind in his own estimation; but, wherever there are erasures or interlineations, one becomes necessary. No particular form is prescribed; but it should state that the testator either signed it himself, or that another signed it by his request, or that he acknowledged the signature to be his in their presence, both being present together, and signed as witnesses in his presence. When there are erasures, the attestation must declare that—The words interlined in the third line of page 4, and the erasure in the fifth line of page 6, having been first made. These are the acts necessary to make a properly executed will; and, being simple in themselves and easily performed, they should be strictly complied with, and always attested.
2750. You don't need an attestation for a will, since just having witnesses is all that the law requires, and the will itself states that the testator believes they are of sound mind. However, if there are any changes or corrections, an attestation becomes necessary. There's no specific format required; it just needs to say that the testator either signed it themselves, or another person signed it at their request, or that the testator acknowledged the signature in front of the witnesses, both of whom were present and signed as witnesses in their presence. If there are any changes, the attestation must indicate that—the words written in the third line of page 4, and the change in the fifth line of page 6, were made prior to the signing. These are the necessary actions to create a properly executed will, and since they are straightforward and easy to do, they should be followed precisely and always include attestation.
2751. A witness may, on being requested, sign for testator; and he may also sign for his fellow-witness, supposing he can only make his mark, declaring that he does so; but a husband cannot sign for his wife, either as testator or witness, nor can a wife for her husband.
2751. A witness can, when asked, sign for the testator; and they can also sign for their fellow witness if that person can only make a mark, stating that they are doing so; however, a husband cannot sign for his wife, either as the testator or as a witness, nor can a wife sign for her husband.
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