This is a modern-English version of On Horsemanship, originally written by Xenophon. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

Scroll to the bottom of this page and you will find a free ePUB download link for this book.





ON HORSEMANSHIP



By Xenophon



Translation by H. G. Dakyns





           Xenophon the Athenian was born 431 B.C. He was a
           pupil of Socrates. He marched with the Spartans,
           and was exiled from Athens. Sparta gave him land
           and property in Scillus, where he lived for many
           years before having to move once more, to settle
           in Corinth. He died in 354 B.C.

           On Horsemanship advises the reader on how to buy
           a good horse, and how to raise it to be either a
           war horse or show horse. Xenophon ends with some
           words on military equipment for a cavalryman.
      
           Xenophon the Athenian was born in 431 B.C. He was a student of Socrates. He fought alongside the Spartans and was exiled from Athens. Sparta granted him land and property in Scillus, where he lived for many years before having to relocate to Corinth. He died in 354 B.C.

           On Horsemanship gives guidance on how to purchase a good horse and how to train it to be either a war horse or a show horse. Xenophon concludes with some advice on military gear for a cavalryman.










Contents






PREPARER'S NOTE

This was typed from Dakyns' series, "The Works of Xenophon," a four-volume set. The complete list of Xenophon's works (though there is doubt about some of these) is:

This was typed from Dakyns' series, "The Works of Xenophon," a four-volume set. The complete list of Xenophon's works (though there is some uncertainty about some of these) is:

     Work                                   Number of books

     The Anabasis                                         7
     The Hellenica                                        7
     The Cyropaedia                                       8
     The Memorabilia                                      4
     The Symposium                                        1
     The Economist                                        1
     On Horsemanship                                      1
     The Sportsman                                        1
     The Cavalry General                                  1
     The Apology                                          1
     On Revenues                                          1
     The Hiero                                            1
     The Agesilaus                                        1
     The Polity of the Athenians and the Lacedaemonians   2

     Text in brackets "{}" is my transliteration of Greek text into
     English using an Oxford English Dictionary alphabet table. The
     diacritical marks have been lost.
     Work                                   Number of books

     The Anabasis                                         7
     The Hellenica                                        7
     The Cyropaedia                                       8
     The Memorabilia                                      4
     The Symposium                                        1
     The Economist                                        1
     On Horsemanship                                      1
     The Sportsman                                        1
     The Cavalry General                                  1
     The Apology                                          1
     On Revenues                                          1
     The Hiero                                            1
     The Agesilaus                                        1
     The Polity of the Athenians and the Lacedaemonians   2

     Text in brackets "{}" is my transliteration of Greek text into
     English using an Oxford English Dictionary alphabet table. The
     diacritical marks have been lost.




ON HORSEMANSHIP

I

I

Claiming to have attained some proficiency in horsemanship (1) ourselves, as the result of long experience in the field, our wish is to explain, for the benefit of our younger friends, what we conceive to be the most correct method of dealing with horses.

Claiming to have gained some skill in riding (1) ourselves, due to extensive experience in the field, we want to share, for the benefit of our younger friends, what we believe to be the best way to handle horses.

 (1) Lit. "Since, through the accident of having for a long time
    'ridden' ourselves, we believe we have become proficients in
    horsemanship, we wish to show to our younger friends how, as we
    conceive the matter, they will proceed most correctly in dealing
    with horses." {ippeuein} in the case of Xenophon = serve as a
    {ippeus}, whether technically as an Athenian "knight" or more
    particularly in reference to his organisation of a troop of
    cavalry during "the retreat" ("Anab." III. iii. 8-20), and, as is
    commonly believed, while serving under Agesilaus ("Hell." III. iv.
    14) in Asia, 396, 395 B.C.
(1) Literally, "Since we have spent a long time ‘riding’ ourselves, we believe we have become skilled in horsemanship, we want to show our younger friends how, in our view, they should properly handle horses." {ippeuein} in the context of Xenophon = act as a {ippeus}, whether in a technical sense as an Athenian "knight" or specifically regarding his organization of a cavalry troop during "the retreat" ("Anab." III. iii. 8-20), and, as is commonly thought, while serving under Agesilaus ("Hell." III. iv. 14) in Asia, 396, 395 B.C.

There is, it is true, a treatise on horsemanship written by Simon, the same who dedicated the bronze horse near the Eleusinion in Athens (2) with a representation of his exploits engraved in relief on the pedestal. (3) But we shall not on that account expunge from our treatise any conclusions in which we happen to agree with that author; on the contrary we shall hand them on with still greater pleasure to our friends, in the belief that we shall only gain in authority from the fact that so great an expert in horsemanship held similar views to our own; whilst with regard to matters omitted in his treatise, we shall endeavour to supply them.

There is, it's true, a book on horsemanship written by Simon, the same guy who dedicated the bronze horse near the Eleusinion in Athens (2) with a carving of his achievements engraved on the pedestal. (3) But we won’t remove any conclusions from our own work just because we agree with that author; on the contrary, we’ll share them with even more enthusiasm with our friends, believing that we’ll only enhance our credibility by aligning with such a knowledgeable expert in horsemanship; as for the topics he didn’t cover, we’ll strive to fill those gaps.

 (2) L. Dind.  (in Athens). The Eleusinion. For the position of this
    sanctuary of Demeter and Kore see Leake, "Top. of Athens," i. p.
    296 foll. For Simon see Sauppe, vol. v. Praef. to "de R. E." p.
    230; L. Dind. Praef. "Xen. Opusc." p. xx.; Dr. Morris H. Morgan,
    "The Art of Horsemanship by Xenophon," p. 119 foll. A fragment of
    the work referred to, {peri eidous kai ekloges ippon}, exists. The
    MS. is in the library of Emmanual Coll. Cant. It so happens that
    one of the hipparchs (?) appealed to by Demosthenes in Arist.
    "Knights," 242.
(2) L. Dind. (in Athens). The Eleusinion. For the location of this sanctuary of Demeter and Kore, see Leake, "Top. of Athens," i. p. 296 and following. For Simon, see Sauppe, vol. v. Preface to "de R. E." p. 230; L. Dind. Preface "Xen. Opusc." p. xx.; Dr. Morris H. Morgan, "The Art of Horsemanship by Xenophon," p. 119 and following. A fragment of the work mentioned, {peri eidous kai ekloges ippon}, exists. The manuscript is in the library of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. Interestingly, one of the hipparchs (?) mentioned by Demosthenes in Aristotle's "Knights," 242, is referenced.

{andres ippes, paragenesthe nun o kairos, o Simon, o Panaiti, ouk elate pros to dexion keras};

{andres ippes, paragenesthe nun o kairos, o Simon, o Panaiti, ouk elate pros to dexion keras};

bears the name.

named.

 (3) Lit. "and carved on the pedestal a representation of his own
    performances."
(3) Lit. "and carved a depiction of his own achievements on the pedestal."

As our first topic we shall deal with the question, how a man may best avoid being cheated in the purchase of a horse.

As our first topic, we'll discuss how a person can best avoid being cheated when buying a horse.

Take the case of a foal as yet unbroken: it is plain that our scrutiny must begin with the body; an animal that has never yet been mounted can but present the vaguest indications of spirit. Confining ourselves therefore to the body, the first point to examine, we maintain, will be the feet. Just as a house would be of little use, however beautiful its upper stories, if the underlying foundations were not what they ought to be, so there is little use to be extracted from a horse, and in particular a war-horse, (4) if unsound in his feet, however excellent his other points; since he could not turn a single one of them to good account. (5)

Consider a foal that hasn't been trained yet: it's clear that we need to start by examining its body; an animal that has never been ridden can only show the faintest signs of spirit. So, focusing on the body, the first thing we should look at is the feet. Just like a house, no matter how beautiful its upper floors, would be useless if the foundations aren't solid, the same goes for a horse—especially a war-horse. If its feet aren't sound, it doesn't matter how great the other qualities are; it won't be able to make good use of any of them.

 (4) Or, "and that a charger, we will suppose." For the simile see
    "Mem." III. i. 7.

 (5) Cf. Hor. "Sat." I. ii. 86:
(4) Or, "and let's imagine a charger." For the comparison, see "Mem." III. i. 7.  

(5) Cf. Hor. "Sat." I. ii. 86:

regibus hic mos est: ubi equos mercantur, opertos inspiciunt, ne, si facies, ut saepe, decora molli fulta pede est, emptorem inducat hiantem, quod pulchrae clunes, breve quod caput, ardua cervix.

regibus hic mos est: ubi equos mercantur, opertos inspiciunt, ne, si facies, ut saepe, decora molli fulta pede est, emptorem inducat hiantem, quod pulchrae clunes, breve quod caput, ardua cervix.

and see Virg. "Georg." iii. 72 foll.

and see Virg. "Georg." iii. 72 foll.

In testing the feet the first thing to examine will be the horny portion of the hoof. For soundness of foot a thick horn is far better than a thin. Again it is important to notice whether the hoofs are high both before and behind, or flat to the ground; for a high hoof keeps the "frog," (6) as it is called, well off the ground; whereas a low hoof treads equally with the stoutest and softest part of the foot alike, the gait resembling that of a bandy-legged man. (7) "You may tell a good foot clearly by the ring," says Simon happily; (8) for the hollow hoof rings like a cymbal against the solid earth. (9)

In checking the feet, the first thing to look at is the hard part of the hoof. A thick hoof is much better for soundness than a thin one. It's also important to see if the hooves are high in both the front and back, or flat on the ground; a high hoof keeps the "frog," (6) as it's called, well off the ground, while a low hoof puts equal pressure on all parts of the foot, making the walk look like that of a bow-legged person. (7) "You can tell a good hoof by the ring it makes," says Simon cheerfully; (8) because a hollow hoof rings like a cymbal on solid ground. (9)

 (6) Lit. "the swallow."

 (7) Al. "a knock-kneed person." See Stonehenge, "The Horse" (ed.
    1892), pp. 3, 9.

 (8) Or, "and he is right."

 (9) Cf. Virg. "Georg." iii. 88; Hor. "Epod." xvi. 12.
(6) Lit. "the swallow."

(7) Al. "a knock-kneed person." See Stonehenge, "The Horse" (ed. 1892), pp. 3, 9.

(8) Or, "and he's right."

(9) Cf. Virg. "Georg." iii. 88; Hor. "Epod." xvi. 12.

And now that we have begun with the feet, let us ascend from this point to the rest of the body. The bones (10) above the hoof and below the fetlock must not be too straight, like those of a goat; through not being properly elastic, (11) legs of this type will jar the rider, and are more liable to become inflamed. On the other hand, these bones must not be too low, or else the fetlock will be abraded or lacerated when the horse is galloped over clods and stones.

And now that we've started with the feet, let’s move up to the rest of the body. The bones (10) above the hoof and below the fetlock shouldn't be too straight, like a goat's; if they're not properly flexible, (11) legs like these will jolt the rider and are more prone to inflammation. However, these bones shouldn’t be too low either, or the fetlock will get scraped or cut when the horse runs over clods and stones.

 (10) i.e. "the pasterns ({mesokunia}) and the coffin should be
    'sloping.'"

 (11) Or, "being too inflexible." Lit. "giving blow for blow, overuch
    like anvil to hammer."
(10) i.e. "the pasterns ({mesokunia}) and the coffin should be 'sloping.'"

(11) Or, "being too stiff." Lit. "delivering blows back and forth, just like an anvil to a hammer."

The bones of the shanks (12) ought to be thick, being as they are the columns on which the body rests; thick in themselves, that is, not puffed out with veins or flesh; or else in riding over hard ground they will inevitably be surcharged with blood, and varicose conditions be set up, (13) the legs becoming thick and puffy, whilst the skin recedes; and with this loosening of the skin the back sinew (14) is very apt to start and render the horse lame.

The bones of the shanks (12) should be thick since they are the support for the body; they need to be thick in themselves, not swollen with veins or flesh. If not, when riding over hard ground, they will eventually become overloaded with blood, leading to varicose conditions, making the legs thick and puffy while the skin pulls back. This loosening of the skin can cause the back sinew (14) to strain, which can make the horse lame.

 (12) i.e. "the metacarpals and metatarsals."

 (13) Or, "and become varicose, with the result that the shanks swell
    whilst the skin recedes from the bone."

 (14) Or, "suspensory ligament"? Possibly Xenophon's anatomy is wrong,
    and he mistook the back sinew for a bone like the fibula. The part
    in question might intelligibly enough, if not technically, be
    termed {perone}, being of the brooch-pin order.
(12) i.e. "the metacarpals and metatarsals."

(13) Or, "and become varicose, causing the legs to swell while the skin pulls away from the bone."

(14) Or, "suspensory ligament"? It’s possible Xenophon got the anatomy wrong and confused the back tendon for a bone like the fibula. The part in question might sensibly, if not precisely, be referred to as {perone}, resembling something like a brooch pin.

If the young horse in walking bends his knees flexibly, you may safely conjecture that when he comes to be ridden he will have flexible legs, since the quality of suppleness invariably increases with age. (15) Supple knees are highly esteemed and with good reason, rendering as they do the horse less liable to stumble or break down from fatigue than those of stiffer build.

If a young horse flexibly bends his knees while walking, you can confidently assume that when he is ridden, he will have flexible legs, as this quality of suppleness usually increases with age. (15) Supple knees are greatly valued for good reason, as they make the horse less likely to stumble or suffer from fatigue than those with stiffer knees.

 (15) Lit. "all horses bend their legs more flexibly as time advances."
(15) Lit. "all horses bend their legs more easily as time goes on."

Coming to the thighs below the shoulder-blades, (16) or arms, these if thick and muscular present a stronger and handsomer appearance, just as in the case of a human being. Again, a comparatively broad chest is better alike for strength and beauty, and better adapted to carry the legs well asunder, so that they will not overlap and interfere with one another. Again, the neck should not be set on dropping forward from the chest, like a boar's, but, like that of a game-cock rather, it should shoot upwards to the crest, and be slack (17) along the curvature; whilst the head should be bony and the jawbone small. In this way the neck will be well in front of the rider, and the eye will command what lies before the horse's feet. A horse, moreover, of this build, however spirited, will be least capable of overmastering the rider, (18) since it is not by arching but by stretching out his neck and head that a horse endeavours to assert his power. (19)

Coming to the thighs below the shoulder blades, (16) or arms, if they're thick and muscular, they look stronger and more attractive, just like in humans. Also, a relatively broad chest is better for both strength and beauty and is better suited to carry the legs wider apart, preventing them from overlapping and getting in each other's way. Furthermore, the neck shouldn't droop forward from the chest like a boar's; instead, it should rise upward to the crest, like that of a game-cock, and be relaxed (17) along the curve. The head should be bony with a small jawbone. This way, the neck will be well in front of the rider, allowing the eye to see what’s ahead of the horse's feet. Moreover, a horse with this build, no matter how spirited, is least likely to overpower the rider, (18) as a horse tries to assert its strength not by arching but by stretching out its neck and head. (19)

 (16) Lit. "the thighs below the shoulder-blades" are distinguished
    from "the thighs below the tail." They correspond respectively to
    our "arms" (i.e. forearms) and "gaskins," and anatomically
    speaking = the radius (os brachii) and the tibia.

 (17) "Slack towards the flexure" (Stonehenge).

 (18) Or, "of forcing the rider's hand and bolting."

 (19) Or, "to display violence or run away."
 (16) Literally, "the thighs below the shoulder blades" are different from "the thighs below the tail." They match up with our "arms" (meaning forearms) and "gaskins," and anatomically translate to the radius (os brachii) and the tibia.

 (17) "Loose towards the bend" (Stonehenge).

 (18) Or, "to pull the rider's hand and take off."

 (19) Or, "to show aggression or escape."

It is important also to observe whether the jaws are soft or hard on one or other side, since as a rule a horse with unequal jaws (20) is liable to become hard-mouthed on one side.

It’s important to also check whether the jaws are soft or hard on either side, because usually a horse with uneven jaws (20) is likely to develop a hard mouth on one side.

 (20) Or, "whose bars are not equally sensitive."
(20) Or, "whose bars aren't equally sensitive."

Again, a prominent rather than a sunken eye is suggestive of alertness, and a horse of this type will have a wider range of vision.

Again, a prominent eye instead of a sunken one indicates alertness, and a horse like this will have a broader field of vision.

And so of the nostrils: a wide-dilated nostril is at once better than a contracted one for respiration, and gives the animal a fiercer aspect. Note how, for instance, when one stallion is enraged against another, or when his spirit chafes in being ridden, (21) the nostrils at once become dilated.

And so about the nostrils: a wide, open nostril is better for breathing than a narrow one and makes the animal look more fierce. For example, when one stallion gets angry with another or when he’s irritated while being ridden, (21) his nostrils will flare up immediately.

 (21) Or, "in the racecourse or on the exercising-ground how readily he
    distends his nostrils."
(21) Or, "on the racetrack or at the training grounds, how easily he flares his nostrils."

A comparatively large crest and small ears give a more typical and horse-like appearance to the head, whilst lofty withers again allow the rider a surer seat and a stronger adhesion between the shoulders and the body. (22)

A relatively large crest and small ears create a more typical, horse-like look for the head, while high withers provide the rider with a more stable seat and better connection between the shoulders and the body. (22)

 (22) Or if with L. D.  ({kai to somati}), transl. "adhesion to the
    horse's shoulders."
(22) Or if with L. D.  ({kai to somati}), transl. "sticking to the horse's shoulders."

A "double spine," (23) again, is at once softer to sit on than a single, and more pleasing to the eye. So, too, a fairly deep side somewhat rounded towards the belly (24) will render the animal at once easier to sit and stronger, and as a general rule better able to digest his food. (25)

A "double spine," (23) is softer to sit on than a single spine and looks better too. Similarly, a relatively deep side that curves inward toward the belly (24) makes the animal easier to sit on, sturdier, and generally better at digesting its food. (25)

 (23) Reading after Courier {rakhis ge men}. See Virg. "Georg." iii.
    87, "at duplex agitur per lumbos spina." "In a horse that is in
    good case, the back is broad, and the spine does not stick up like
    a ridge, but forms a kind of furrow on the back" (John Martyn); "a
    full back," as we say.

 (24) Or, "in proportion to." See Courier ("Du Commandement de la
    Cavalerie at de l'Equitation": deux livres de Xenophon, traduits
    par un officier d'artillerie a cheval), note ad loc. p. 83.

 (25) i.e. "and keep in good condition."
(23) Reading after Courier {rakhis ge men}. See Virg. "Georg." iii. 87, "the spine runs along the back." "In a horse that is well-built, the back is broad, and the spine doesn’t stick out like a ridge, but creates a slight groove on the back" (John Martyn); "a full back," as we say.

(24) Or, "in relation to." See Courier ("Du Commandement de la Cavalerie et de l'Equitation": two books by Xenophon, translated by an artillery officer on horseback), note ad loc. p. 83.

(25) i.e. "and maintain good condition."

The broader and shorter the loins the more easily will the horse raise his forequarters and bring up his hindquarters under him. Given these points, moreover, the belly will appear as small as possible, a portion of the body which if large is partly a disfigurement and partly tends to make the horse less strong and capable of carrying weight. (26)

The wider and shorter the hips, the easier it will be for the horse to lift its front end and bring its back end underneath itself. With these characteristics, the belly will seem as small as possible, since a large belly is somewhat unattractive and also makes the horse weaker and less able to carry weight. (26)

 (26) Al. "more feeble at once and ponderous in his gait."
(26) Al. "weaker and heavy-footed in his walk."

The quarters should be broad and fleshy in correspondence with the sides and chest, and if they are also firm and solid throughout they will be all the lighter for the racecourse, and will render the horse in every way more fleet.

The hindquarters should be wide and muscular, matching the sides and chest, and if they are also strong and solid overall, it will help the horse be lighter on the racetrack and make it faster in every way.

To come to the thighs (and buttocks): (27) if the horse have these separated by a broad line of demarcation (28) he will be able to plant his hind-legs under him with a good gap between; (29) and in so doing will assume a posture (30) and a gait in action at once prouder and more firmly balanced, and in every way appear to the best advantage.

To discuss the thighs (and buttocks): (27) if the horse has these separated by a wide line of distinction (28) he will be able to position his hind legs under him with a good gap in between; (29) and by doing so, will take on a posture (30) and a gait in action that is both prouder and more balanced, and will look his best in every way.

 (27) Lit. "the thighs beneath the tail."

 (28) Reading {plateia to gramme diorismenous ekhe}, sc. the perineum.
    Al. Courier (after Apsyrtus), op. cit. p. 14, {plateis te kai me
    diestrammenous}, "broad and not turned outwards."

 (29) Or, "he will be sure to spread well behind," etc.

 (30) {ton upobasin}, tech. of the crouching posture assumed by the
    horse for mounting or "in doing the demi-passade" (so Morgan, op.
    cit. p. 126).
(27) Literally, "the thighs underneath the tail."

(28) Reading {plateia to gramme diorismenous ekhe}, referring to the perineum. Al. Courier (after Apsyrtus), op. cit. p. 14, {plateis te kai me diestrammenous}, "broad and not turned outwards."

(29) Or, "he will definitely spread well behind," etc.

(30) {ton upobasin}, a term for the crouching position the horse takes for mounting or "in doing the demi-passade" (so Morgan, op. cit. p. 126).

The human subject would seem to point to this conclusion. When a man wants to lift anything from off the ground he essays to do so by bringing the legs apart and not by bringing them together.

The human subject seems to lead to this conclusion. When a man wants to lift something off the ground, he attempts to do so by spreading his legs apart rather than bringing them together.

A horse ought not to have large testicles, though that is not a point to be determined in the colt.

A horse shouldn't have large testicles, though that's not something that can be decided in a young colt.

And now, as regards the lower parts, the hocks, (31) or shanks and fetlocks and hoofs, we have only to repeat what has been said already about those of the fore-legs.

And now, regarding the lower parts, the hocks, (31) or shanks, fetlocks, and hooves, we only need to reiterate what has already been mentioned about those of the front legs.

 (31) {ton katothen astragelon, e knemon}, lit. "the under (or hinder?)
    knuckle-bones (hocks?) or shins"; i.e. anatomically speaking, the
    os calcis, astragalus, tarsals, and metatarsal large and small.
(31) {ton katothen astragelon, e knemon}, lit. "the under (or hinder?) knuckle-bones (hocks?) or shins"; i.e. anatomically speaking, the os calcis, astragalus, tarsals, and metatarsal large and small.

I will here note some indications by which one may forecast the probable size of the grown animal. The colt with the longest shanks at the moment of being foaled will grow into the biggest horse; the fact being—and it holds of all the domestic quadrupeds (32)—that with advance of time the legs hardly increase at all, while the rest of the body grows uniformly up to these, until it has attained its proper symmetry.

I’ll point out some signs that can help predict the likely size of the adult animal. The colt with the longest legs when it’s born will end up being the biggest horse; this is true for all domestic four-legged animals (32)—as time goes on, the legs barely grow at all, while the rest of the body develops uniformly up to those legs until it reaches its ideal shape.

 (32) Cf. Aristot. "de Part. Anim." iv. 10; "H. A." ii. 1; Plin. "N.
    H." xi. 108.
(32) Cf. Aristot. "de Part. Anim." iv. 10; "H. A." ii. 1; Plin. "N. H." xi. 108.

Such is the type (33) of colt and such the tests to be applied, with every prospect of getting a sound-footed, strong, and fleshy animal fine of form and large of stature. If changes in some instances develop during growth, that need not prevent us from applying our tests in confidence. It far more often happens that an ugly-looking colt will turn out serviceable, (34) than that a foal of the above description will turn out ugly or defective.

Such is the type (33) of colt and such the tests to be applied, with every prospect of getting a sound-footed, strong, and well-proportioned animal that's big in size. If changes in some cases occur during growth, that shouldn't stop us from applying our tests with confidence. It’s much more common for an unattractive colt to turn out useful (34) than for a foal of the above description to turn out ugly or defective.

 (33) Lit. "by testing the shape of the colt in this way it seems to us
    the purchaser will get," etc.

 (34) For the vulg. {eukhroastoi}, a doubtful word = "well coloured,"
    i.e. "sleek and healthy," L. & S. would read {eukhrooi} (cf. "Pol.
    Lac." v. 8). L. Dind. conj. {enrostoi}, "robust"; Schneid.
    {eukhrestoi}, "serviceable."
 (33) It seems to us that the buyer will get, by testing the shape of the colt this way, etc.

 (34) For the common term {eukhroastoi}, which is uncertain = "well colored," meaning "sleek and healthy," L. & S. would suggest {eukhrooi} (see "Pol. Lac." v. 8). L. Dind. proposed {enrostoi}, meaning "robust"; Schneid. suggested {eukhrestoi}, meaning "serviceable."

II

II

The right method of breaking a colt needs no description at our hands. (1) As a matter of state organisation, (2) cavalry duties usually devolve upon those who are not stinted in means, and who have a considerable share in the government; (3) and it seems far better for a young man to give heed to his own health of body and to horsemanship, or, if he already knows how to ride with skill, to practising manoeuvres, than that he should set up as a trainer of horses. (4) The older man has his town property and his friends, and the hundred-and-one concerns of state or of war, on which to employ his time and energies rather than on horsebreaking. It is plain then that any one holding my views (5) on the subject will put a young horse out to be broken. But in so doing he ought to draw up articles, just as a father does when he apprentices his son to some art or handicraft, stating what sort of knowledge the young creature is to be sent back possessed of. These will serve as indications (6) to the trainer what points he must pay special heed to if he is to earn his fee. At the same time pains should be taken on the owner's part to see that the colt is gentle, tractable, and affectionate, (7) when delivered to the professional trainer. That is a condition of things which for the most part may be brought about at home and by the groom—if he knows how to let the animal connect (8) hunger and thirst and the annoyance of flies with solitude, whilst associating food and drink and escape from sources of irritation with the presence of man. As the result of this treatment, necessarily the young horse will acquire—not fondness merely, but an absolute craving for human beings. A good deal can be done by touching, stroking, patting those parts of the body which the creature likes to have so handled. These are the hairiest parts, or where, if there is anything annoying him, the horse can least of all apply relief himself.

The right way to break a colt doesn't need any explanation from us. (1) In terms of state organization, (2) cavalry duties usually fall to those who aren’t short on resources and have a significant role in the government; (3) it seems much better for a young man to focus on his health and horsemanship, or if he already rides well, to practice maneuvers, rather than trying to become a horse trainer. (4) An older man has his town property, friends, and various state or military responsibilities that require his time and energy, rather than breaking horses. Clearly, anyone who shares my views (5) on this will send a young horse out to be broken. However, when doing so, he should draft articles, just like a father does when he apprentices his son to a trade, outlining what knowledge the young horse should come back with. These will guide the trainer on what aspects he needs to pay special attention to in order to earn his fee. At the same time, the owner should ensure that the colt is gentle, manageable, and friendly (7) when delivered to the professional trainer. This is something that can usually be achieved at home and by the groom—if he knows how to help the animal associate (8) hunger and thirst, as well as the annoyance of flies, with being alone, while linking food, water, and relief from annoyances with being around people. Because of this treatment, the young horse will develop—not just affection, but a strong desire for human companionship. A lot can be accomplished by gently touching, stroking, and petting the areas of the body that the horse enjoys being handled. These are often the furriest parts, or areas where, if something bothers him, the horse can’t relieve it on his own.

 (1) Or, "The training of the colt is a topic which, as it seems to us,
    may fairly be omitted, since those appointed for cavalry service
    in these states are persons who," etc. For reading see Courier,
    "Notes," p. 84.

 (2) "Organisation in the several states."

 (3) Or, "As a matter of fact it is the wealthiest members of the
    state, and those who have the largest stake in civic life, that
    are appointed to cavalry duties." See "Hippparch," i. 9.

 (4) Cf. "Econ." iii. 10.

 (5) {ego}. Hitherto the author has used the plural {emin} with which
    he started.

 (6) Reading {upodeigmata}, "finger-post signs," as it were, or "draft
    in outline"; al. {upomnemata} = "memoranda."

 (7) "Gentle, and accustomed to the hand, and fond of man."

 (8) Lit. "if he knows how to provide that hunger and thirst, etc.,
    should be felt by the colt in solitude, whilst food and drink,
    etc., come through help of man."
(1) Or, "Training the colt is a subject that we believe can be skipped, since those chosen for cavalry service in these states are individuals who," etc. For reading, see Courier, "Notes," p. 84.

(2) "Organization in the different states."

(3) Or, "In reality, it's the wealthiest members of the state, and those with the most investment in civic life, who are assigned cavalry duties." See "Hippparch," i. 9.

(4) Cf. "Econ." iii. 10.

(5) {ego}. Until now, the author has used the plural {emin} with which he began.

(6) Reading {upodeigmata}, "finger-post signs," or "draft in outline"; alternatively {upomnemata} = "memoranda."

(7) "Gentle, used to handling, and fond of people."

(8) Literally, "if he knows how to ensure that hunger and thirst, etc., are experienced by the colt in solitude while food and drink, etc., are provided through the assistance of man."

The groom should have standing orders to take his charge through crowds, and to make him familiar with all sorts of sights and noises; and if the colt shows sign of apprehension at them, (9) he must teach him—not by cruel, but by gentle handling—that they are not really formidable.

The groom should have instructions to help his charge navigate through crowds and get used to all kinds of sights and sounds; and if the colt shows any signs of fear towards them, he must teach him—not through harshness, but with gentle guidance—that they aren’t really scary.

 (9) Or, "is disposed to shy."
(9) Or, "tends to be shy."

On this topic, then, of training, (10) the rules here given will, I think, suffice for any private individual.

On this topic of training, (10) I believe the rules provided here will be enough for any individual.

 (10) Or, "In reference to horsebreaking, the above remarks will
    perhaps be found sufficient for the practical guidance of an
    amateur."
(10) Or, "Regarding horse training, the above comments should be enough for the practical guidance of a beginner."

III

III

To meet the case in which the object is to buy a horse already fit for riding, we will set down certain memoranda, (1) which, if applied intelligently, may save the purchaser from being cheated.

To address the situation where the goal is to buy a horse that’s already ready for riding, we’ll list some notes, (1) which, if used wisely, could help the buyer avoid getting ripped off.

 (1) "Which the purchaser should lay to heart, if he does not wish to
    be cheated."
(1) "Which the buyer should take to heart if they don't want to be ripped off."

First, then, let there be no mistake about the age. If the horse has lost his mark teeth, (2) not only will the purchaser's hopes be blighted, but he may find himself saddled for ever with a sorry bargain. (3)

First, then, let there be no mistake about the age. If the horse has lost his marked teeth, (2) not only will the buyer's hopes be dashed, but he may find himself stuck with a bad deal forever. (3)

 (2) Or, "the milk teeth," i.e. is more than five years old. See
    Morgan, p. 126.

 (3) Lit. "a horse that has lost his milk teeth cannot be said to
    gladden his owner's mind with hopes, and is not so easily disposed
    of."
(2) Or, "the milk teeth," meaning someone is more than five years old. See  
    Morgan, p. 126.

(3) Literally, "a horse that has lost its milk teeth can't bring joy to its owner's heart with hopes, and is not so easily sold."

Given that the fact of youth is well established, let there be no mistake about another matter: how does he take the bit into his mouth and the headstall (4) over his ears? There need be little ambiguity on this score, if the purchaser will see the bit inserted and again removed, under his eyes. Next, let it be carefully noted how the horse stands being mounted. Many horses are extremely loath to admit the approach of anything which, if once accepted, clearly means to them enforced exertion.

Given that youth is a well-known fact, let's be clear about another point: how does he accept the bit in his mouth and the headstall over his ears? There shouldn't be much confusion about this, as long as the buyer watches the bit being put in and taken out right in front of them. Next, it's important to closely observe how the horse stands while being mounted. Many horses are very reluctant to allow anything to come near them that, if accepted, obviously means they're being forced to work.

 (4) {koruphaia}, part of the {khalinos} gear.
(4) {koruphaia}, part of the {khalinos} gear.

Another point to ascertain is whether the horse, when mounted, can be induced to leave other horses, or when being ridden past a group of horses standing, will not bolt off to join the company. Some horses again, as the result of bad training, will run away from the exercising-ground and make for the stable. A hard mouth may be detected by the exercise called the {pede} or volte, (5) and still more so by varying the direction of the volte to right or left. Many horses will not attempt to run away except for the concurrence of a bad mouth along with an avenue of escape home. (6)

Another thing to check is whether the horse, when being ridden, can be encouraged to leave other horses, or if it will bolt to join a group when ridden by them. Some horses, due to poor training, will run away from the exercise area and head straight for the stable. You can tell if a horse has a hard mouth by using the exercise called the {pede} or volte, (5) and even more so by changing the direction of the volte to the right or left. Many horses won’t try to run away unless they have a bad mouth and a clear path to escape home. (6)

 (5) See Sturz, s.v.; Pollux, i. 219. Al. "the longe," but the passage
    below (vii. 14) is suggestive rather of the volte.

 (6) Al. "will only attempt to bolt where the passage out towards home
    combines, as it were, with a bad mouth." {e... ekphora} = "the
    exit from the manege or riding school."
(5) See Sturz, s.v.; Pollux, i. 219. Al. "the long one," but the passage below (vii. 14) suggests more of the turn.

(6) Al. "will only try to escape when the way home, so to speak, combines with a bad exit." {e... ekphora} = "the exit from the arena or riding school."

Another point which it is necessary to learn is, whether when let go at full speed the horse can be pulled up (7) sharp and is willing to wheel round in obedience to the rein.

Another thing that needs to be learned is whether, when let go at full speed, the horse can be brought to a quick stop and is willing to turn around in response to the rein.

 (7) {analambanetai}, "come to the poise" (Morgan). For
    {apostrephesthai} see ix.6; tech. "caracole."
(7) {analambanetai}, "come to the poise" (Morgan). For {apostrephesthai} see ix.6; tech. "caracole."

It is also well to ascertain by experience if the horse you propose to purchase will show equal docility in response to the whip. Every one knows what a useless thing a servant is, or a body of troops, that will not obey. A disobedient horse is not only useless, but may easily play the part of an arrant traitor.

It’s also important to find out through experience if the horse you plan to buy will respond calmly to the whip. Everyone understands how useless a servant or a group of soldiers is if they won't obey. A disobedient horse is not only worthless but can also easily act like a total traitor.

And since it is assumed that the horse to be purchased is intended for war, we must widen our test to include everything which war itself can bring to the proof: such as leaping ditches, scrambling over walls, scaling up and springing off high banks. We must test his paces by galloping him up and down steep pitches and sharp inclines and along a slant. For each and all of these will serve as a touchstone to gauge the endurance of his spirit and the soundness of his body.

And since we assume the horse we're buying is meant for battle, we need to expand our evaluation to include everything that war can test: like jumping over ditches, climbing over walls, and scaling steep banks. We should check his movements by galloping him up and down steep hills and along slopes. Each of these will help us measure his stamina and physical condition.

I am far from saying, indeed, that because an animal fails to perform all these parts to perfection, he must straightway be rejected; since many a horse will fall short at first, not from inability, but from want of experience. With teaching, practice, and habit, almost any horse will come to perform all these feats beautifully, provided he be sound and free from vice. Only you must beware of a horse that is naturally of a nervous temperament. An over-timorous animal will not only prevent the rider from using the vantage-ground of its back to strike an enemy, but is as likely as not to bring him to earth himself and plunge him into the worst of straits.

I'm not saying that just because an animal doesn't do everything perfectly, it should be immediately dismissed; many horses may struggle at first, not due to a lack of ability, but simply because they lack experience. With the right training, practice, and routine, almost any horse can learn to perform all these tasks well, as long as they are healthy and have a good temperament. However, you need to be cautious with a horse that has a naturally nervous disposition. A jumpy horse won't just stop the rider from effectively using its back to charge at an enemy, but it might also throw the rider off and lead them into serious trouble.

We must, also, find out of the horse shows any viciousness towards other horses or towards human beings; also, whether he is skittish; (8) such defects are apt to cause his owner trouble.

We also need to check if the horse shows any aggression towards other horses or people; we should also see if he is jumpy; (8) such issues could cause problems for his owner.

 (8) Or, "very ticklish."
(8) Or, "super ticklish."

As to any reluctance on the horse's part to being bitted or mounted, dancing and twisting about and the rest, (9) you will get a more exact idea on this score, if, when he has gone through his work, you will try and repeat the precise operations which he went through before you began your ride. Any horse that having done his work shows a readiness to undergo it all again, affords sufficient evidence thereby of spirit and endurance.

As for any hesitance from the horse about being bitted or mounted—like dancing, twisting, and all that—you’ll get a better understanding of this if, once he’s done his work, you try to repeat the exact actions he went through before you started riding. Any horse that is willing to go through it all again after doing his work shows clear evidence of spirit and endurance.

 (9) Reading {talla dineumata}, lit. "and the rest of his twistings and
    twirlings about."
(9) Reading {talla dineumata}, lit. "and the rest of his twists and turns."

To put the matter in a nutshell: given that the horse is sound-footed, gentle, moderately fast, willing and able to undergo toil, and above all things (10) obedient—such an animal, we venture to predict, will give the least trouble and the greatest security to his rider in the circumstances of war; while, conversely, a beast who either out of sluggishness needs much driving, or from excess of mettle much coaxing and manoeuvering, will give his rider work enough to occupy both his hands and a sinking of the heart when dangers thicken.

To sum it up: if the horse is sure-footed, gentle, moderately fast, willing to work hard, and most importantly, obedient—then we believe this kind of animal will cause the least trouble and provide the greatest security to its rider in times of war. On the other hand, a horse that is either lazy and needs a lot of urging or overly spirited and requires a lot of coaxing and handling will keep its rider busy and feeling anxious when danger arises.

 (10) Al. "thoroughly."
Al. "completely."

IV

IV

We will now suppose the purchaser has found a horse which he admires; (1) the purchase is effected, and he has brought him home—how is he to be housed? It is best that the stable should be placed in a quarter of the establishment where the master will see the horse as often as possible. (2) It is a good thing also to have his stall so arranged that there will be as little risk of the horse's food being stolen from the manger, as of the master's from his larder or store-closet. To neglect a detail of this kind is surely to neglect oneself; since in the hour of danger, it is certain, the owner has to consign himself, life and limb, to the safe keeping of his horse.

We will now assume the buyer has found a horse that he likes; (1) the purchase is made, and he has brought the horse home—how should he be accommodated? It's best for the stable to be located in a part of the property where the owner can see the horse as often as possible. (2) It's also a good idea to set up the stall in a way that minimizes the risk of the horse's food being stolen from the feed tray, just like the owner would want to protect his own food from being taken. Ignoring such details is essentially neglecting oneself; in moments of danger, it's clear the owner has to trust his life to the safety of his horse.

 (1) Lit. "To proceed: when you have bought a horse which you admire
    and have brought him home."

 (2) i.e. "where he will be brought as frequently as possible under the
    master's eye." Cf. "Econ." xii. 20.
(1) Literally, "To continue: when you've purchased a horse that you admire and have brought him home."

(2) That is, "where he will be brought under the master's observation as often as possible." See "Econ." xii. 20.

Nor is it only to avoid the risk of food being stolen that a secure horse-box is desirable, but for the further reason that if the horse takes to scattering his food, the action is at once detected; and any one who observes that happening may take it as a sign and symptom either of too much blood, (3) which calls for veterinary aid, or of over-fatigue, for which rest is the cure, or else that an attack of indigestion (4) or some other malady is coming on. And just as with human beings, so with the horse, all diseases are more curable at their commencement (5) than after they have become chronic, or been wrongly treated. (6)

It's not just to prevent food theft that a secure horse box is important; it's also because if the horse starts to scatter its food, it's immediately noticeable. Anyone who sees this can interpret it as a warning sign of too much blood, which requires a vet’s attention, or of being overworked, which needs some rest, or even that the horse might be developing indigestion or another illness. Just like with people, all illnesses in horses are easier to treat when they first appear than after they've turned chronic or been treated incorrectly.

 (3) "A plethoric condition of the blood."

 (4) {krithiasis}. Lit. "barley surfeit"; "une fourbure." See Aristot.
    "H. A." viii. 24. 4.

 (5) i.e. "in the early acute stages."

 (6) Al. "and the mischief has spread."
(3) "An excessive condition of the blood."

(4) {krithiasis}. Literally "barley overindulgence"; "une fourbure." See Aristot. "H. A." viii. 24. 4.

(5) i.e. "in the initial acute stages."

(6) Al. "and the harm has spread."

But if food and exercise with a view to strengthening the horse's body are matters of prime consideration, no less important is it to pay attention to the feet. A stable with a damp and smooth floor will spoil the best hoof which nature can give. (7) To prevent the floor being damp, it should be sloped with channels; and to avoid smoothness, paved with cobble stones sunk side by side in the ground and similar in size to the horse's hoofs. (8) A stable floor of this sort is calculated to strengthen the horse's feet by the mere pressure on the part in standing. In the next place it will be the groom's business to lead out the horse somewhere to comb and curry him; and after his morning's feed to unhalter him from the manger, (9) so that he may come to his evening meal with greater relish. To secure the best type of stable-yard, and with a view to strengthening the horse's feet, I would suggest to take and throw down loosely (10) four or five waggon loads of pebbles, each as large as can be grasped in the hand, and about a pound in weight; the whole to be fenced round with a skirting of iron to prevent scattering. The mere standing on these will come to precisely the same thing as if for a certain portion of the day the horse were, off and on, stepping along a stony road; whilst being curried or when fidgeted by flies he will be forced to use his hoofs just as much as if he were walking. Nor is it the hoofs merely, but a surface so strewn with stones will tend to harden the frog of the foot also.

But if food and exercise aimed at strengthening the horse's body are top priorities, it's equally important to pay attention to its feet. A stable with a damp and smooth floor can ruin the best hooves that nature provides. (7) To keep the floor dry, it should be sloped with channels, and to prevent it from being smooth, it should be paved with cobblestones that are set side by side in the ground and about the same size as the horse's hooves. (8) A stable floor like this is designed to strengthen the horse's feet simply through the pressure of standing. Next, it's the groom's job to take the horse out for grooming; after its morning feed, the horse should be unhaltered from the manger, (9) so it can enjoy its evening meal more. To create the best type of stable yard and help strengthen the horse's feet, I suggest spreading out four or five wagonloads of pebbles, each about the size of a fist and weighing around a pound; the area should be fenced with an iron border to keep the pebbles contained. Just standing on these will be similar to the horse spending part of the day walking on a stony road; while being groomed or bothered by flies, the horse will have to use its hooves as if it were walking. Not only do the hooves benefit, but a surface covered with stones will also help toughen the frog of the foot.

 (7) Lit. "A damp and smooth floor may be the ruin of a naturally good
    hoof." It will be understood that the Greeks did not shoe their
    horses.

 (8) See Courier, p. 54, for an interesting experiment tried by himself
    at Bari.

 (9) Cf. "Hipparch," i. 16.

 (10) Or, "spread so as to form a surface."
(7) Basically, "A wet and slippery floor can ruin a naturally strong hoof." It's important to note that the Greeks didn't use horseshoes.

(8) Check out Courier, p. 54, for an interesting experiment he conducted in Bari.

(9) See "Hipparch," i. 16.

(10) Or, "expanded to create a surface."

But if care is needed to make the hoofs hard, similar pains should be taken to make the mouth and jaws soft; and the same means and appliances which will render a man's flesh and skin soft, will serve to soften and supple a horse's mouth. (11)

But if you need to harden the hooves, you should also put in effort to make the mouth and jaws soft; and the same methods and tools that will soften a person's flesh and skin will also help to soften and make a horse's mouth more supple. (11)

 (11) Or, "may be used with like effect on a horse's mouth," i.e.
    bathing, friction, oil. See Pollux, i. 201.
(11) Or, "can be used in the same way on a horse's mouth," meaning bathing, rubbing, oil. See Pollux, i. 201.

V

V

It is the duty of a horseman, as we think, to have his groom trained thoroughly in all that concerns the treatment of the horse. In the first place, then, the groom should know that he is never to knot the halter (1) at the point where the headstall is attached to the horse's head. By constantly rubbing his head against the manger, if the halter does not sit quite loose about his ears, the horse will be constantly injuring himself; (2) and with sores so set up, it is inevitable that he should show peevishness, while being bitted or rubbed down.

It’s the responsibility of a horseman to make sure his groom is well-trained in everything related to horse care. First of all, the groom should understand that he should never tie the halter (1) at the point where the headstall connects to the horse's head. If the halter is not loose enough around the ears, the horse will continuously hurt himself by rubbing his head against the manger; (2) and with those wounds, it's only natural for the horse to become irritable when being bitted or groomed.

 (1) Lit. "by which the horse is tied to the manger"; "licol d'ecurie."

 (2) Al. "in nine cases out of ten he rubs his head... and ten to
    one will make a sore."
(1) Literally, "by which the horse is tied to the manger"; "stable halter."

(2) Alternatively, "in nine out of ten cases he rubs his head... and ten to one will cause a sore."

It is desirable that the groom should be ordered to carry out the dung and litter of the horse to some one place each day. By so doing, he will discharge the duty with least trouble to himself, (3) and at the same time be doing the horse a kindness.

It’s best if the groom is required to remove the horse’s waste and litter to a designated spot each day. This way, he can fulfill his duty with minimal hassle, and at the same time, he’ll be doing the horse a favor.

 (3) Al. "get rid of the refuse in the easiest way."
(3) Al. "dispose of the waste in the simplest way."

The groom should also be instructed to attach the muzzle to the horse's mouth, both when taking him out to be groomed and to the rolling-ground. (4) In fact he should always muzzle him whenever he takes him anywhere without the bit. The muzzle, while it is no hindrance to respiration, prevents biting; and when attached it serves to rob the horse of opportunity for vice. (5)

The groom should also be told to put the muzzle on the horse's mouth, both when taking him out to be groomed and to the rolling ground. (4) In fact, he should always muzzle the horse whenever he takes him anywhere without the bit. The muzzle, while it doesn’t restrict breathing, prevents biting; and when it's on, it stops the horse from having the chance to misbehave. (5)

 (4) Cf. "Econ." xi. 18; Aristoph. "Clouds," 32.

 (5) Or, "prevents the horse from carrying out vicious designs."
(4) Cf. "Econ." xi. 18; Aristoph. "Clouds," 32.

(5) Or, "stops the horse from carrying out harmful intentions."

Again, care should be taken to tie the horse up with the halter above his head. A horse's natural instinct, in trying to rid himself of anything that irritates the face, is to toss up his head, and by this upward movement, if so tied, he only slackens the chain instead of snapping it. In rubbing the horse down, the groom should begin with the head and mane; as until the upper parts are clean, it is vain to cleanse the lower; then, as regards the rest of the body, first brush up the hair, by help of all the ordinary implements for cleansing, and then beat out the dust, following the lie of the hair. The hair on the spine (and dorsal region) ought not to be touched with any instrument whatever; the hand alone should be used to rub and smooth it, and in the direction of its natural growth, so as to preserve from injury that part of the horse's back on which the rider sits.

Again, make sure to tie the horse up with the halter above its head. A horse's natural instinct, when trying to shake off something that bothers its face, is to toss its head up. If tied this way, it will only loosen the chain instead of breaking it. When grooming the horse, the groom should start with the head and mane; if the upper parts aren’t clean, there’s no point in cleaning the lower ones. For the rest of the body, first brush the hair in the right direction using all the usual grooming tools, and then knock out the dust, following the direction of the hair. The hair along the spine should not be touched with any tools; only your hand should be used to rub and smooth it down, going with the natural direction of growth, to avoid injuring that part of the horse's back where the rider sits.

The head should be drenched with water simply; for, being bony, if you try to cleanse it with iron or wooden instruments injury may be caused. So, too, the forelock should be merely wetted; the long hairs of which it is composed, without hindering the animal's vision, serve to scare away from the eyes anything that might trouble them. Providence, we must suppose, (6) bestowed these hairs upon the horse, instead of the large ears which are given to the ass and the mule as a protection to the eyes. (7) The tail, again, and mane should be washed, the object being to help the hairs to grow—those in the tail so as to allow the creature the greatest reach possible in brushing away molesting objects, (8) and those of the neck in order that the rider may have as free a grip as possible.

The head should just be rinsed with water; if you use metal or wooden tools, you might end up causing damage since it's bony. Similarly, the forelock should only be dampened; its long hairs help keep anything that could irritate the eyes away without blocking the animal's vision. We can assume that (6) nature gave these hairs to the horse instead of the big ears found on donkeys and mules, which protect their eyes. (7) The tail and mane should also be cleaned to encourage hair growth—the tail to help the horse swat away annoying pests effectively, (8) and the mane so the rider can have a secure grip.

 (6) Lit. "The gods, we must suppose, gave..."

 (7) Lit. "as defences or protective bulwarks."

 (8) Insects, etc.
(6) Lit. "We can assume that the gods gave..."

(7) Lit. "as defenses or protective barriers."

(8) Insects, etc.

Mane, forelock, and tail are triple gifts bestowed by the gods upon the horse for the sake of pride and ornament, (9) and here is the proof: a brood mare, so long as her mane is long and flowing, will not readily suffer herself to be covered by an ass; hence breeders of mules take care to clip the mane of the mare with a view to covering. (10)

Mane, forelock, and tail are three gifts given by the gods to the horse for beauty and decoration, (9) and here’s the proof: a brood mare, as long as her mane is long and flowing, won’t easily let herself be bred by a donkey; that’s why mule breeders make sure to cut the mare's mane to facilitate breeding. (10)

 (9) {aglaias eneka} (a poetic word). Cf. "Od." xv. 78; xvii. 310.

 (10) For this belief Schneid. cf Aristot. "H. A." vi. 18; Plin. viii.
    42; Aelian, "H. A." ii. 10, xi. 18, xii. 16, to which Dr. Morgan
    aptly adds Soph. "Fr." 587 (Tyro), a beautiful passage, {komes de
    penthos lagkhano polou diken, k.t.l.} (cf. Plut. "Mor." 754 A).
(9) {aglaias eneka} (a poetic term). See "Od." xv. 78; xvii. 310.

(10) For this belief, see Schneid. and Aristot. "H. A." vi. 18; Plin. viii. 42; Aelian, "H. A." ii. 10, xi. 18, xii. 16, to which Dr. Morgan wisely adds Soph. "Fr." 587 (Tyro), a lovely passage, {komes de penthos lagkhano polou diken, k.t.l.} (see Plut. "Mor." 754 A).

Washing of the legs we are inclined to dispense with—no good is done but rather harm to the hoofs by this daily washing. So, too, excessive cleanliness of the belly is to be discouraged; the operation itself is most annoying to the horse; and the cleaner these parts are made, the thicker the swarm of troublesome things which collect beneath the belly. Besides which, however elaborately you clean these parts, the horse is no sooner led out than presently he will be just as dirty as if he had not been cleaned. Omit these ablutions then, we say; and similarly for the legs, rubbing and currying by hand is quite sufficient.

Washing the legs is something we should skip—it's not beneficial and can actually harm the hoofs when done daily. Likewise, being overly clean with the belly is not advisable; it annoys the horse, and the cleaner you make these areas, the more annoying things tend to gather underneath. Plus, no matter how much you clean these spots, as soon as you take the horse out, it’ll be just as dirty as if you hadn’t cleaned it at all. So, let’s avoid these washes; for the legs, simply rubbing and currying by hand is more than enough.

VI

VI

We will now explain how the operation of grooming may be performed with least danger to oneself and best advantage to the horse. If the groom attempts to clean the horse with his face turned the same way as the horse, he runs the risk of getting a knock in the face from the animal's knee or hoof. When cleaning him he should turn his face in the opposite direction to the horse, and planting himself well out of the way of his leg, at an angle to his shoulder-blade, proceed to rub him down. He will then escape all mischief, and he will be able to clean the frog by folding back the hoof. Let him clean the hind-legs in the same way.

We will now explain how to groom a horse safely and effectively. If the groom tries to clean the horse while facing the same direction, there's a chance of getting hit in the face by the horse's knee or hoof. When grooming, he should face away from the horse and position himself safely at an angle to the shoulder blade, so he can rub him down without getting hurt. This way, he avoids any accidents and can clean the frog by lifting the hoof. He should clean the hind legs in the same manner.

The man who has to do with the horse should know, with regard to this and all other necessary operations, that he ought to approach as little as possible from the head or the tail to perform them; for if the horse attempt to show vice he is master of the man in front and rear. But by approaching from the side he will get the greatest hold over the horse with the least risk of injury to himself.

The person dealing with the horse should understand that, in relation to this and all other essential tasks, they should minimize approaching from the front or back; if the horse tries to act up, it can dominate the person in those positions. By approaching from the side, they can gain better control over the horse while reducing the risk of injury to themselves.

When the horse has to be led, we do not approve of leading him from in front, for the simple reason that the person so leading him robs himself of his power of self-protection, whilst he leaves the horse freedom to do what he likes. On the other hand, we take a like exception to the plan of training the horse to go forward on a long rein (1) and lead the way, and for this reason: it gives the horse the opportunity of mischief, in whichever direction he likes, on either flank, and the power also to turn right about and face his driver. How can a troop of horses be kept free of one another, if driven in this fashion from behind?—whereas a horse accustomed to be led from the side will have least power of mischief to horse or man, and at the same time be in the best position to be mounted by the rider at a moment's notice, were it necessary.

When leading a horse, we don't recommend leading from the front because it puts the person leading at a disadvantage, making them less able to protect themselves, while allowing the horse too much freedom. Similarly, we also oppose the idea of training the horse to move forward on a long rein (1) and lead, as this gives the horse the chance to cause trouble in any direction and even turn and face the driver. How can a group of horses be kept apart if they're driven from behind like this? In contrast, a horse trained to be led from the side has less opportunity to be mischievous towards other horses or people and is also in the best position for the rider to get on quickly if needed.

 (1) See a passage from Strattis, "Chrys." 2 (Pollux, x. 55), {prosage
    ton polon atrema, proslabon ton agogea brakhuteron. oukh oras oti
    abolos estin}.
(1) See a passage from Strattis, "Chrys." 2 (Pollux, x. 55), {approach the crowd carefully, take hold of the shorter guiding lines. Don’t you see that it's unstable}.

In order to insert the bit correctly the groom should, in the first place, approach on the near (2) side of the horse, and then throwing the reins over his head, let them drop loosely on the withers; raise the headstall in his right hand, and with his left present the bit. If the horse will take the bit, it is a simple business to adjust the strap of the headstall; but if he refuses to open his mouth, the groom must hold the bit against the teeth and at the same time insert the thumb (3) of his left hand inside the horse's jaws. Most horses will open their mouths to that operation. But if he still refuses, then the groom must press the lip against the tush (4); very few horses will refuse the bit, when that is done to them. (5)

To properly put in the bit, the groom should first approach the horse from the near side, then throw the reins over the horse's head and let them fall loosely on its withers. He should raise the headstall in his right hand and present the bit with his left. If the horse accepts the bit, adjusting the headstall strap is straightforward. But if the horse won’t open its mouth, the groom needs to hold the bit against the teeth and use the thumb of his left hand to press inside the horse's jaws. Most horses will typically open their mouths for this. If the horse still refuses, the groom should press the lip against the tush; very few horses will reject the bit when that is done.

 (2) Lit. "on the left-hand side."

 (3) {ton megan daktulon}, Hdt. iii. 8.

 (4) i.e. "canine tooth."

 (5) Or, "it is a very exceptional horse that will not open his mouth
    under the circumstances."
(2) Literally, "on the left-hand side."

(3) {ton megan daktulon}, Hdt. iii. 8.

(4) that is, "canine tooth."

(5) Or, "it's a very rare horse that won't open its mouth in that situation."

The groom can hardly be too much alive to the following points * * * if any work is to be done: (6) in fact, so important is it that the horse should readily take his bit, that, to put it tersely, a horse that will not take it is good for nothing. Now, if the horse be bitted not only when he has work to do, but also when he is being taken to his food and when he is being led home from a ride, it would be no great marvel if he learnt to take the bit of his own accord, when first presented to him.

The groom should definitely keep the following points in mind if any work is going to be done: (6) in fact, it’s so important for the horse to easily accept the bit that, to put it simply, a horse that won’t take it is useless. Now, if the horse is bitted not only when he has work to do but also when he’s being taken to his feed and when he’s being led home from a ride, it wouldn’t be surprising if he learned to take the bit on his own when it’s first offered to him.

 (6) Reading with L. Dind. {khre de ton ippokomon kai ta oiade...
    paroxunthai, ei ti dei ponein}, or if as Schneid., Sauppe, etc.,
    {khre de ton ippon me kata toiade, k.t.l.}, transl. "the horse
    must not be irritated in such operations as these," etc.; but
    {toiade} = "as follows," if correct, suggests a lacuna in either
    case at this point.
(6) Reading with L. Dind. {the horse must not be irritated in these kinds of operations}, or if as Schneid., Sauppe, etc., {the horse must not be irritated in such operations}, transl. "the horse must not be irritated in such operations as these," etc.; but {as follows} if correct, suggests a gap in either case at this point.

It would be good for the groom to know how to give a leg up in the Persian fashion, (7) so that in case of illness or infirmity of age the master himself may have a man to help him on to horseback without trouble, or, if he so wish, be able to oblige a friend with a man to mount him. (8)

It would be helpful for the groom to know how to assist someone in the Persian style, (7) so that if the master becomes ill or gets older, he can have someone help him onto his horse without any hassle, or, if he wants, he can lend a hand to a friend who needs help mounting. (8)

 (7) Cf. "Anab." IV. iv. 4; "Hipparch," i. 17; "Cyrop." VII. i. 38.

 (8) An {anaboleus}. Cf. Plut. "C. Gracch." 7.
(7) Cf. "Anab." IV. iv. 4; "Hipparch," i. 17; "Cyrop." VII. i. 38.

(8) An {anaboleus}. Cf. Plut. "C. Gracch." 7.

The one best precept—the golden rule—in dealing with a horse is never to approach him angrily. Anger is so devoid of forethought that it will often drive a man to do things which in a calmer mood he will regret. (9) Thus, when a horse is shy of any object and refuses to approach it, you must teach him that there is nothing to be alarmed at, particularly if he be a plucky animal; (10) or, failing that, touch the formidable object yourself, and then gently lead the horse up to it. The opposite plan of forcing the frightened creature by blows only intensifies its fear, the horse mentally associating the pain he suffers at such a moment with the object of suspicion, which he naturally regards as its cause.

The one essential rule—the golden rule—when dealing with a horse is to never approach him in anger. Anger lacks any thoughtful consideration and can often push someone to act in ways they will regret later when they're calmer. (9) Therefore, if a horse is scared of something and refuses to go near it, you need to show him that there's nothing to worry about, especially if he’s a brave horse; (10) or if that doesn’t work, you can touch the scary object yourself and then gently lead the horse towards it. Forcing the frightened animal with hits only makes its fear worse, as the horse will link the pain it experiences at that moment with the object it fears, seeing it as the cause of its distress.

 (9) Cf. "Hell." v. iii. 7 for this maxim.

 (10) Al. "if possibly by help of another and plucky animal."
(9) Cf. "Hell." v. iii. 7 for this saying.

(10) Al. "if perhaps with the help of another brave animal."

If, when the groom brings up the horse to his master to mount, he knows how to make him lower his back, (11) to facilitate mounting, we have no fault to find. Still, we consider that the horseman should practise and be able to mount, even if the horse does not so lend himself; (12) since on another occasion another type of horse may fall to the rider's lot, (13) nor can the same rider be always served by the same equerry. (14)

If, when the groom brings the horse to his master to get on, he knows how to get the horse to lower its back to make it easier to mount, we have no objections. However, we believe that the horseman should practice and be able to mount even if the horse doesn’t cooperate; since, at another time, a different kind of horse might come to the rider, and the same rider won’t always be served by the same groom.

 (11) {upobibazesthai}. See above, i. 14; Pollux, i. 213; Morgan ad
    loc. "Stirrups were unknown till long after the Christian era
    began."

 (12) Or, "apart from these good graces on the animal's part."

 (13) As a member of the cavalry.

 (14) Reading {allo}. Al. reading {allos} with L. D., "and the same
    horse will at one time humour you in one way and again in
    another." Cf. viii. 13, x. 12, for {uperetein} of the horse.
(11) {upobibazesthai}. See above, i. 14; Pollux, i. 213; Morgan in the same place. "Stirrups were not known until long after the Christian era began."

(12) Or, "besides these good qualities in the animal."

(13) As part of the cavalry.

(14) Reading {allo}. Another reading is {allos} with L. D., "and the same horse will at one time cooperate with you in one way and at another time in another way." See viii. 13, x. 12, for {uperetein} of the horse.

VII

VII

The master, let us suppose, has received his horse and is ready to mount. (1) We will now prescribe certain rules to be observed in the interests not only of the horseman but of the animal which he bestrides. First, then, he should take the leading rein, which hangs from the chin-strap or nose-band, (2) conveniently in his left hand, held slack so as not to jerk the horse's mouth, whether he means to mount by hoisting himself up, catching hold of the mane behind the ears, or to vault on to horseback by help of his spear. With the right hand he should grip the reins along with a tuft of hair beside the shoulder-joint, (3) so that he may not in any way wrench the horse's mouth with the bit while mounting. In the act of taking the spring off the ground for mounting, (4) he should hoist his body by help of the left hand, and with the right at full stretch assist the upward movement (5) (a position in mounting which will present a graceful spectacle also from behind); (6) at the same time with the leg well bent, and taking care not to place his knee on the horse's back, he must pass his leg clean over to the off side; and so having brought his foot well round, plant himself firmly on his seat. (7)

The rider, let's say, has received his horse and is ready to mount. (1) We will now lay out some rules to be followed for the benefit of both the rider and the horse. First, he should grab the leading rein, which hangs from the chin strap or noseband, (2) comfortably in his left hand, keeping it loose to avoid tugging on the horse's mouth, whether he plans to mount by pulling himself up, grabbing the mane behind the ears, or using his spear to vault onto the horse. With his right hand, he should hold the reins along with a handful of hair beside the shoulder joint, (3) so he doesn't accidentally yank the horse's mouth with the bit while getting on. As he springs off the ground to mount, (4) he should lift his body with his left hand, while his right hand fully extends to assist his upward movement (5) (this mounting position will also look graceful from behind); (6) at the same time, with his leg well bent and being careful not to press his knee on the horse's back, he must swing his leg clean over to the off side; and once he has brought his foot around, he should settle firmly into the saddle. (7)

 (1) Reading {otan... paradexetai... os anabesomenos}. Or,
    reading {otan paradexetai ton ippea (sc. o. ippos) ws
    anabesomenon}, transl. "the horse has been brought round ready for
    mounting."

 (2) So Courier, "la muserolle." It might be merely a stitched leather
    strap or made of a chain in part, which rattled; as
    {khrusokhalinon patagon psalion} (Aristoph. "Peace," 155) implies.
    "Curb" would be misleading.

 (3) "Near the withers."

 (4) Or, "as soon as he has got the springing poise preliminary to
    mounting."

 (5) "Give himself simultaneously a lift." Reading {ekteinon}, or if
    {enteinon}, "keeping his right arm stiff."

 (6) Or, "a style of mounting which will obviate an ungainly attitude
    behind."

 (7) Lit. "lower his buttocks on to the horse's back."
(1) Reading {otan... paradexetai... os anabesomenos}. Or, reading {otan paradexetai ton ippea (sc. o. ippos) ws anabesomenon}, translated as "the horse is ready for mounting."

(2) So Courier, "the noseroll." It could just be a simple stitched leather strap or partly made of a chain that rattled; as {khrusokhalinon patagon psalion} (Aristoph. "Peace," 155) suggests. "Curb" would be misleading.

(3) "Near the withers."

(4) Or, "as soon as he has achieved the springing position needed for mounting."

(5) "Lift himself up at the same time." Reading {ekteinon}, or if {enteinon}, "keeping his right arm straight."

(6) Or, "a way of mounting that avoids looking awkward from behind."

(7) Literally, "lower his buttocks onto the horse's back."

To meet the case in which the horseman may chance to be leading his horse with the left hand and carrying his spear in the right, it would be good, we think, for every one to practise vaulting on to his seat from the right side also. In fact, he has nothing else to learn except to do with his right limbs what he has previously done with the left, and vice versa. And the reason we approve of this method of mounting is (8) that it enables the soldier at one and the same instant to get astride of his horse and to find himself prepared at all points, supposing he should have to enter the lists of battle on a sudden.

To address the situation where a horseman might be leading his horse with his left hand and holding his spear in his right, we think it’s helpful for everyone to practice getting onto their seat from the right side as well. In fact, all they need to do is learn how to use their right limbs in the same way they’ve used their left, and vice versa. The reason we support this method of mounting is that it allows the soldier to quickly get on their horse and be ready in every way, just in case they need to jump into battle unexpectedly.

 (8) Lit. "One reason for the praise which we bestow on this method of
    mounting is that at the very instant of gaining his seat the
    soldier finds himself fully prepared to engage the enemy on a
    sudden, if occasion need."
(8) Lit. "One reason we praise this method of mounting is that at the very moment he takes his seat, the soldier is completely ready to confront the enemy unexpectedly, if necessary."

But now, supposing the rider fairly seated, whether bareback or on a saddle-cloth, a good seat is not that of a man seated on a chair, but rather the pose of a man standing upright with his legs apart. In this way he will be able to hold on to the horse more firmly by his thighs; and this erect attitude will enable him to hurl a javelin or to strike a blow from horseback, if occasion calls, with more vigorous effect. The leg and foot should hang loosely from the knee; by keeping the leg stiff, the rider is apt to have it broken in collision with some obstacle; whereas a flexible leg (9) will yield to the impact, and at the same time not shift the thigh from its position. The rider should also accustom the whole of his body above the hips to be as supple as possible; for thus he will enlarge his scope of action, and in case of a tug or shove be less liable to be unseated. Next, when the rider is seated, he must, in the first place, teach his horse to stand quiet, until he has drawn his skirts from under him, if need be, (10) and got the reins an equal length and grasped his spear in the handiest fashion; and, in the next place, he should keep his left arm close to his side. This position will give the rider absolute ease and freedom, (11) and his hand the firmest hold.

But now, let’s assume the rider is properly seated, whether on bareback or on a saddle cloth. A good position isn’t like sitting in a chair; it’s more about standing upright with your legs apart. This way, he can grip the horse more securely with his thighs, and this upright stance will allow him to throw a javelin or strike from horseback more powerfully when needed. His leg and foot should hang loosely from the knee; if the rider keeps his leg stiff, he risks breaking it if he hits something. However, a flexible leg will absorb the impact without moving the thigh from its position. The rider should also make sure the entire upper body is as flexible as possible; this will widen his range of action and make it less likely for him to get thrown off during a jolt or push. Next, once the rider is seated, he should first teach his horse to stand still while he adjusts his clothing and makes sure the reins are even and that he holds his spear comfortably. He should also keep his left arm close to his side. This position will give the rider maximum comfort and freedom while providing the strongest grip.

 (9) i.e. "below the knee"; "shin and calf."

 (10) Lit. "pulled up" (and arranged the folds of his mantle).

 (11) {eustalestatos}, "the most business-like deportment."
(9) i.e. "below the knee"; "shin and calf."

(10) Lit. "pulled up" (and arranged the folds of his cloak).

(11) {eustalestatos}, "the most professional demeanor."

As to reins, we recommend those which are well balanced, without being weak or slippery or thick, so that when necessary, the hand which holds them can also grasp a spear.

As for reins, we suggest ones that are well-balanced, not weak or slippery or too thick, so that when needed, the hand that holds them can also grip a spear.

As soon as the rider gives the signal to the horse to start, (12) he should begin at a walking pace, which will tend to allay his excitement. If the horse is inclined to droop his head, the reins should be held pretty high; or somewhat low, if he is disposed to carry his head high. This will set off the horse's bearing to the best advantage. Presently, as he falls into a natural trot, (13) he will gradually relax his limbs without the slightest suffering, and so come more agreeably to the gallop. (14) Since, too, the preference is given to starting on the left foot, it will best conduce to that lead if, while the horse is still trotting, the signal to gallop should be given at the instant of making a step with his right foot. (15) As he is on the point of lifting his left foot he will start upon it, and while turning left will simultaneously make the first bound of the gallop; (16) since, as a matter of instinct, a horse, on being turned to the right, leads off with his right limbs, and to the left with his left.

As soon as the rider signals the horse to start, (12) he should begin at a walking pace, which will help calm his excitement. If the horse tends to lower his head, the reins should be held fairly high; or somewhat low if he tends to hold his head high. This will position the horse's posture to the best advantage. Soon, as he settles into a natural trot, (13) he will gradually loosen his limbs without any discomfort, making it easier to transition to a gallop. (14) Since it's preferable to start on the left foot, it will be most effective if the signal to gallop is given just as the horse steps with his right foot while still trotting. (15) Just as he’s about to lift his left foot, he will push off with it, and while turning left, he will make the first leap of the gallop; (16) instinctively, a horse leads off with his right legs when turned to the right and his left legs when turned to the left.

 (12) "Forwards!"

 (13) Or, "the true trot."

 (14) {epirrabdophorein}, "a fast pace in response to a wave of the
    whip."

 (15) See Berenger, i. p. 249; also the "Cavalry Drill Book," Part I.
    Equitation, S. 22, "The Canter."

 (16) {tes episkeliseos}, "he will make the forward stride of the
    gallop in the act of turning to the left." See Morgan ad loc.
 (12) "Let’s go!"

 (13) Or, "the actual trot."

 (14) {epirrabdophorein}, "a quick pace in reaction to a wave of the whip."

 (15) See Berenger, i. p. 249; also the "Cavalry Drill Book," Part I. Equitation, S. 22, "The Canter."

 (16) {tes episkeliseos}, "he will take the forward stride of the gallop while turning to the left." See Morgan ad loc.

As an exercise, we recommend what is called the volte, (17) since it habituates the animal to turn to either hand; while a variation in the order of the turn is good as involving an equalisation of both sides of the mouth, in first one, and then the other half of the exercise. (18) But of the two we commend the oval form of the volte rather than the circular; for the horse, being already sated with the straight course, will be all the more ready to turn, and will be practised at once in the straight course and in wheeling. At the curve, he should be held up, (19) because it is neither easy nor indeed safe when the horse is at full speed to turn sharp, especially if the ground is broken (20) or slippery.

As an exercise, we recommend what's called the volte, (17) since it gets the animal used to turning in either direction; plus, varying the order of the turns is beneficial because it balances both sides of the mouth, as each half of the exercise is engaged. (18) However, we prefer the oval shape of the volte over the circular one; this is because the horse, already accustomed to moving straight, will be more willing to turn and will practice both the straight course and turning at the same time. When taking the curve, the horse should be supported, (19) because it's neither easy nor safe to make sharp turns at full speed, especially on uneven (20) or slippery ground.

 (17) {pede}, figure of eight.

 (18) Or, "on first one and then the other half of the manege."

 (19) {upolambanein}. See "Hipparch," iii. 14; "Hunting," iii. 10; vi.
    22, of a dog.

 (20) {apokroton}, al. {epikroton}, "beaten, hard-trodden ground."
(17) {pede}, figure of eight.

(18) Or, "first on one half and then on the other half of the arena."

(19) {upolambanein}. See "Hipparch," iii. 14; "Hunting," iii. 10; vi. 22, referring to a dog.

(20) {apokroton}, also {epikroton}, "beaten, hard ground."

But in collecting him, the rider should as little as possible sway the horse obliquely with the bit, and as little as possible incline his own body; or, he may rest assured, a trifle will suffice to stretch him and his horse full length upon the ground. The moment the horse has his eyes fixed on the straight course after making a turn, is the time to urge him to full speed. In battle, obviously, these turns and wheelings are with a view to charging or retiring; consequently, to practise quickening the pace after wheeling is desirable. When the horse seems to have had enough of the manege, it would be good to give him a slight pause, and then suddenly to put him to his quickest, away from his fellows first, (21) and now towards them; and then again to quiet him down in mid-career as short as possible; (22) and from halt once more to turn him right-about and off again full charge. It is easy to predict that the day will come when there will be need of each of these manoeuvres.

But when collecting him, the rider should try not to pull the horse sideways with the bit or lean his body too much, because even a small movement can stretch both him and his horse out flat on the ground. The moment the horse sets his gaze on the straight path after a turn, that's the time to push him to go all out. In battle, these turns and movements are meant for charging or retreating; therefore, it's important to practice speeding up right after turning. When the horse seems to have had enough of the exercise, it’s good to give him a brief pause, then suddenly push him to his fastest speed, first moving away from his companions and then back towards them; after that, quickly bring him back down to a slower pace. From a stop, turn him right around and charge full speed again. It's easy to see that one day, all these maneuvers will be needed.

 (21) {mentoi}, "of course."

 (22) Or, "within the narrowest compass"; "as finely as possible."
 (21) {mentoi}, "of course."

 (22) Or, "within the smallest limits"; "as precisely as possible."

When the moment to dismount has come, you should never do so among other horses, nor near a group of people, (23) nor outside the exercising-ground; but on the precise spot which is the scene of his compulsory exertion there let the horse find also relaxation. (24)

When it's time to get off the horse, you should never do it around other horses, or near a group of people, (23) or outside the training area; instead, do it in the exact spot where the horse has been working hard so that it can also relax there. (24)

 (23) Or, "a knot of bystanders"; cf. Thuc. ii. 21.

 (24) Or, as we say, "be caressed, and dismissed."
(23) Or, "a group of onlookers"; cf. Thuc. ii. 21.

(24) Or, as we say, "to be pampered and sent away."

VIII

VIII

As there will, doubtless, be times when the horse will need to race downhill and uphill and on sloping ground; times, also, when he will need to leap across an obstacle; or, take a flying leap from off a bank; (1) or, jump down from a height, the rider must teach and train himself and his horse to meet all emergencies. In this way the two will have a chance of saving each the other, and may be expected to increase their usefulness.

As there will definitely be times when the horse needs to run downhill, uphill, and on sloped ground; times when he has to jump over an obstacle; or take a flying leap off a bank; or jump down from a height, the rider must teach and train both himself and his horse to handle all situations. This way, they will have a better chance of helping each other out and can be expected to become more useful.

 (1) {ekpedan} = exsilire in altum (Sturz, and so Berenger); "to leap
    over ditches, and upon high places and down from them."
(1) {ekpedan} = to jump up high (Sturz, and also Berenger); "to jump over ditches, and onto high places and down from them."

And here, if any reader should accuse us of repeating ourselves, on the ground that we are only stating now what we said before on the same topics, (2) we say that this is not mere repetition. In the former case, we confined ourselves to advising the purchaser before he concluded his bargain to test whether the horse could do those particular things; (3) what we are now maintaining is that the owner ought to teach his own horse, and we will explain how this teaching is to be done.

And here, if any reader accuses us of repeating ourselves, claiming that we are just restating what we’ve said before on the same topics, (2) we want to clarify that this is not just repetition. Before, we focused on advising the buyer to check if the horse could perform those specific tasks before finalizing the deal; (3) now we’re asserting that the owner should teach their own horse, and we will explain how this teaching should be carried out.

 (2) Or, "treating of a topic already handled."

 (3) i.e. possessed a certain ability at the date of purchase.
(2) Or, "discussing a topic that has already been covered."

(3) i.e. had a specific skill at the time of purchase.

With a horse entirely ignorant of leaping, the best way is to take him by the leading rein, which hangs loose, and to get across the trench yourself first, and then to pull tight on the leading-rein, to induce him to leap across. If he refuses, some one with a whip or switch should apply it smartly. The result will be that the horse will clear at a bound, not the distance merely, but a far larger space than requisite; and for the future there will be no need for an actual blow, the mere sight of some one coming up behind will suffice to make him leap. As soon as he is accustomed to leap in this way you may mount him and put him first at smaller and then at larger trenches. At the moment of the spring be ready to apply the spur; and so too, when training him to leap up and leap down, you should touch him with the spur at the critical instant. In the effort to perform any of these actions with the whole body, the horse will certainly perform them with more safety to himself and to his rider than he will, if his hind-quarters lag, in taking a ditch or fence, or in making an upward spring or downward jump. (4)

With a horse that has no experience with jumping, the best approach is to hold him by the loose leading rein and go over the trench yourself first. Then, pull the leading rein tight to encourage him to jump across. If he refuses, someone with a whip or switch should give him a quick tap. This will cause the horse to leap not just the distance needed, but even farther than required. After this, you won't need to strike him again; just the sight of someone approaching from behind will make him jump. Once he gets used to jumping this way, you can ride him and start with smaller trenches, gradually moving to larger ones. When he jumps, be ready to use your spur, and do the same when you’re training him to jump up or down. If the horse uses his whole body to execute these actions, he will be safer for both himself and his rider than if he lags with his hindquarters when encountering a ditch, fence, or when jumping upward or downward. (4)

 (4) Lit. "in making these jumps, springs, and leaps across or up or
    down."
(4) Literally. "in making these jumps, springs, and leaps across or up or down."

To face a steep incline, you must first teach him on soft ground, and finally, when he is accustomed to that, he will much prefer the downward to the upward slope for a fast pace. And as to the apprehension, which some people entertain, that a horse may dislocate the shoulder in galloping down an incline, it should encourage them to learn that the Persians and Odrysians all run races down precipitous slopes; (5) and their horses are every bit as sound as our own. (6)

To tackle a steep hill, you need to start training him on softer ground. Once he gets used to that, he'll definitely prefer running downhill over uphill. Regarding the concern some have about a horse dislocating its shoulder while galloping down a slope, it's reassuring to know that both the Persians and Odrysians hold races on steep hills, and their horses are just as healthy as ours.

 (5) Cf. "Anab." IV. viii. 28; and so the Georgians to this day
    (Chardin ap. Courier, op. cit. p. 70, n. 1).

 (6) Lit. "as are those of the Hellenes."
(5) Cf. "Anab." IV. viii. 28; and so the Georgians to this day  
    (Chardin ap. Courier, op. cit. p. 70, n. 1).

(6) Lit. "as are those of the Greeks."

Nor must we omit another topic: how the rider is to accommodate himself to these several movements. (7) Thus, when the horse breaks off into a gallop, the rider ought to bend forward, since the horse will be less likely to slip from under; and so to pitch his rider off. So again in pulling him up short (8) the rider should lean back; and thus escape a shock. In leaping a ditch or tearing up a steep incline, it is no bad plan to let go the reins and take hold of the mane, so that the animal may not feel the burthen of the bit in addition to that of the ground. In going down a steep incline the rider must throw himself right back and hold in the horse with the bit, to prevent himself being hurled headforemost down the slope himself if not his horse.

We shouldn't skip over another important point: how the rider should adjust to these different movements. (7) When the horse starts galloping, the rider should lean forward, as this will help prevent the horse from slipping out from underneath them and throwing the rider off. Similarly, when stopping the horse suddenly (8), the rider should lean back to avoid a jolt. When jumping over a ditch or climbing up a steep hill, it's a good idea to let go of the reins and grab the mane, so the horse doesn’t feel the extra pressure of the bit along with the strain of the ground. When going down a steep slope, the rider needs to lean back and hold the horse in with the bit to avoid being thrown forward down the hill, or even having the horse tumble.

 (7) Or, "to each set of occurrences."

 (8) Al. "when the horse is being brought to a poise" (Morgan); and see
    Hermann ap. Schneid., {analambanein} = retinere equum, anhalten,
    pariren. i.e. "rein in" of the "Parade."
 (7) Or, "for each set of events."

 (8) Al. "when the horse is being brought to a stop" (Morgan); and see
    Hermann ap. Schneid., {analambanein} = hold the horse, stop,
    pause. i.e. "rein in" of the "Parade."

It is a correct principle to vary these exercises, which should be gone through sometimes in one place and sometimes in another, and should sometimes be shorter and sometimes longer in duration. The horse will take much more kindly to them if you do not confine him to one place and one routine.

It’s important to mix up these exercises, doing them sometimes in one spot and other times in a different one, and varying their length too; sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. The horse will respond much better if you don’t keep him in the same place and follow the same routine every time.

Since it is a matter of prime necessity that the rider should keep his seat, while galloping full speed on every sort of ground, and at the same time be able to use his weapons with effect on horseback, nothing could be better, where the country suits and there are wild animals, than to practise horsemanship in combination with the chase. But when these resources fail, a good exercise may be supplied in the combined efforts of two horsemen. (9) One of them will play the part of fugitive, retreating helter-skelter over every sort of ground, with lance reversed and plying the butt end. The other pursues, with buttons on his javelins and his lance similarly handled. (10) Whenever he comes within javelin range he lets fly at the retreating foeman with his blunted missiles; or whenever within spear thrust he deals the overtaken combatant a blow. In coming to close quarters, it is a good plan first to drag the foeman towards oneself, and then on a sudden to thrust him off; that is a device to bring him to the ground. (11) The correct plan for the man so dragged is to press his horse forward: by which action the man who is being dragged is more likely to unhorse his assailant than to be brought to the ground himself.

Since it's essential for the rider to maintain their seat while galloping at full speed over various terrains and also be able to effectively use their weapons while mounted, nothing is better, when the terrain allows and wild animals are present, than to practice riding skills alongside hunting. However, when these resources are not available, a good exercise can be provided through the joint efforts of two horsemen. One will take on the role of the fugitive, fleeing wildly across all kinds of ground, with their lance turned backwards and using the butt end as a weapon. The other pursues, with blunt tips on his javelins and holding his lance in a similar way. Whenever he comes within javelin range, he throws his blunted missiles at the retreating enemy, or whenever within spear range, he strikes the captured opponent. When they get close, a smart strategy is to pull the enemy towards oneself and then suddenly push him away; this technique can help bring him to the ground. The best approach for the person being pulled is to push their horse forward, which is more likely to unseat their opponent than to end up on the ground themselves.

 (9) {ippota}. A poetic word; "cavaliers."

 (10) Or, "manipulated."

 (11) Or, "that may be spoken off as the 'purl trick'"; "it will
    unhorse him if anything."
(9) {ippota}. A poetic term; "knights."

(10) Or, "controlled."

(11) Or, "that might be referred to as the 'purl trick'"; "it will take him off his horse if anything."

If it ever happens that you have an enemy's camp in front, and cavalry skirmishing is the order of the day (at one time charging the enemy right up to the hostile battle-line, and again beating a retreat), under these circumstances it is well to bear in mind that so long as the skirmisher is close to his own party, (12) valour and discretion alike dictate to wheel and charge in the vanguard might and main; but when he finds himself in close proximity to the foe, he must keep his horse well in hand. This, in all probability, will enable him to do the greatest mischief to the enemy, and to receive least damage at his hands.

If you find yourself facing an enemy camp and cavalry skirmishing is the strategy of the day—sometimes charging right up to the enemy line and other times retreating—it’s important to remember that as long as the skirmisher stays close to their own side, it’s wise to charge fiercely in the front lines. However, when they get close to the enemy, they need to keep their horse under control. This will most likely allow them to cause the maximum damage to the enemy while taking minimal hits in return.

 (12) See "Hipparch," viii. 23.
See "Hipparch," VIII. 23.

The gods have bestowed on man, indeed, the gift of teaching man his duty by means of speech and reasoning, but the horse, it is obvious, is not open to instruction by speech and reasoning. If you would have a horse learn to perform his duty, your best plan will be, whenever he does as you wish, to show him some kindness in return, and when he is disobedient to chastise him. This principle, though capable of being stated in a few words, is one which holds good throughout the whole of horsemanship. As, for instance, a horse will more readily take the bit, if each time he accepts it some good befalls him; or, again, he will leap ditches and spring up embankments and perform all the other feats incumbent on him, if he be led to associate obedience to the word of command with relaxation. (13)

The gods have given humans the ability to teach each other about their responsibilities through speech and reasoning, but clearly, a horse cannot learn in that way. If you want a horse to do what you need, the best approach is to reward him with kindness when he obeys, and to discipline him when he doesn't. This principle can be summed up in a few words, but it applies to all aspects of horse training. For example, a horse is more likely to take the bit if he associates it with something good happening; similarly, he'll jump over ditches, climb embankments, and perform all the tasks required of him if he learns to connect obeying commands with relaxation. (13)

 (13) Lit. "if every time he performs the word of command he is led to
    expect some relaxation."
(13) Lit. "if every time he gives the command he expects some kind of relief."

IX

IX

The topics hitherto considered have been: firstly, how to reduce the chance of being cheated in the purchase of a colt or full-grown horse; secondly, how to escape as much as possible the risk of injuring your purchase by mishandling; and lastly, how to succeed in turning out a horse possessed of all the qualities demanded by the cavalry soldier for the purposes of war.

The topics we've covered so far are: first, how to lower the chances of getting cheated when buying a colt or adult horse; second, how to minimize the risk of harming your purchase by mishandling it; and finally, how to ensure that you end up with a horse that has all the qualities needed by a cavalry soldier for wartime use.

The time has come perhaps to add a few suggestions, in case the rider should be called upon to deal with an animal either unduly spirited or again unduly sluggish in disposition. The first point to recognise is, that temper of spirit in a horse takes the place of passion or anger in a man; and just as you may best escape exciting a man's ill-temper by avoiding harshness of speech and act, so you will best avoid enraging a spirited horse by not annoying him. Thus, from the first instant, in the act of mounting him, you should take pains to minimise the annoyance; and once on his back you should sit quiet for longer than the ordinary time, and so urge him forward by the gentlest signs possible; next, beginning at the slowest pace, gradually work him into a quicker step, but so gradually that he will find himself at full speed without noticing it. (1) Any sudden signal will bewilder a spirited horse, just as a man is bewildered by any sudden sight or sound or other experience. (I say one should be aware that any unexpected shock will produce disturbance in a horse.) (2)

The time has come to offer a few suggestions in case the rider needs to handle a horse that is either overly spirited or too sluggish. First, it’s important to understand that a horse’s temperament is like a person’s emotions. Just as you can avoid triggering someone's bad mood by being gentle in your words and actions, you can prevent upsetting an energetic horse by not provoking him. Therefore, from the moment you get on the horse, you should try to minimize any potential annoyance. Once you’re on his back, remain still for longer than usual and encourage him to move forward with the softest cues possible. Start at a slow pace and gradually increase to a faster speed, doing so subtly so he doesn’t even realize when he reaches full speed. (1) Any sudden movement will confuse an energetic horse, just like a sudden sound or sight can confuse a person. (I want to emphasize that any unexpected shock will disturb a horse.) (2)

 (1) Or, "so that the horse may insensibly fall into a gallop."

 (2) L. Dindorf and others bracket, as spurious.
(1) Or, "so that the horse might unknowingly start to gallop."  

(2) L. Dindorf and others consider this to be an addition, so they bracket it as not genuine.

So if you wish to pull up a spirited horse when breaking off into a quicker pace than requisite, you must not suddenly wrench him, but quietly and gently bring the bit to bear upon him, coaxing him rather than compelling him to calm down. It is the long steady course rather than the frequent turn which tends to calm a horse. (3) A quiet pace sustained for a long time has a caressing, (4) soothing effect, the reverse of exciting. If any one proposes by a series of fast and oft-repeated gallops to produce a sense of weariness in the horse, and so to tame him, his expectation will not be justified by the result; for under such circumstances a spirited horse will do his best to carry the day by main force, (5) and with a show of temper, like a passionate man, may contrive to bring on himself and his rider irreparable mischief.

So if you want to rein in a spirited horse when speeding up too quickly, you shouldn't yank on the reins suddenly. Instead, you should gently pull on the bit, encouraging him to calm down rather than forcing him. It’s the long, steady pace that calms a horse, rather than frequent changes in speed. A calm, sustained pace has a soothing effect, the opposite of making him excitable. If someone thinks that a series of quick, repeated runs will tire the horse out and tame him, they’re likely to be disappointed. In that situation, a spirited horse will probably try to overpower the rider, and in a fit of temper, he could end up causing serious harm to both himself and his rider.

 (3) Or, "long stretches rather than a succession of turns and counter
    turns," {apostrophai}.

 (4) Reading {katapsosi} with L. Dind.

 (5) {agein bia}, vi agere, vi uti, Sturz; al. "go his own gait by
    sheer force."
(3) Or, "long stretches instead of a series of turns and counter turns," {apostrophai}.

(4) Reading {katapsosi} with L. Dind.

(5) {agein bia}, vi agere, vi uti, Sturz; others say "go at his own pace by sheer force."

A spirited horse should be kept in check, so that he does not dash off at full speed; and on the same principle, you should absolutely abstain from setting him to race against another; as a general rule, your fiery-spirited horse is only too fond of contention. (6)

A lively horse needs to be controlled, so it doesn't take off at full speed; similarly, you should definitely avoid racing him against another horse. Usually, your spirited horse loves a challenge all too much. (6)

 (6) Reading {skhedon gar kai phil oi thum}, or if {... oi thil kai
    th.} transl. "the more eager and ambitious a horse is, the more
    mettlesome he will tend to become."
(6) Reading {skhedon gar kai phil oi thum}, or if {... oi thil kai th.} transl. "the more eager and ambitious a horse is, the more spirited he will tend to become."

Smooth bits are better and more serviceable than rough; if a rough bit be inserted at all, it must be made to resemble a smooth one as much as possible by lightness of hand.

Smooth bits are better and more useful than rough ones; if a rough bit has to be used, it should be handled gently to make it as similar to a smooth one as possible.

It is a good thing also for the rider to accustom himself to keep a quiet seat, especially when mounted on a spirited horse; and also to touch him as little as possible with anything except that part of the body necessary to secure a firm seat.

It’s important for the rider to train himself to maintain a calm position, especially when riding a energetic horse; and to minimize any contact with the horse, using only the parts of his body that are necessary to stay securely seated.

Again, it should be known that the conventional "chirrup" (7) to quiet and "cluck" to rouse a horse are a sort of precept of the training school; and supposing any one from the beginning chose to associate soft soothing actions with the "cluck" sound, and harsh rousing actions with the "chirrup," the horse could be taught to rouse himself at the "chirrup" and to calm himself at the "cluck" sound. On this principle, at the sound of the trumpet or the shout of battle the rider should avoid coming up to his charger in a state of excitement, or, indeed, bringing any disturbing influence to bear on the animal. As far as possible, at such a crisis he should halt and rest him; and, if circumstances permit, give him his morning or his evening meal. But the best advice of all is not to get an over-spirited horse for the purposes of war.

Again, it's important to understand that the traditional "chirrup" (7) to calm a horse and "cluck" to energize it are part of common training practices. If someone decided from the start to link gentle, soothing actions with the "cluck" sound and more intense actions with the "chirrup," the horse could learn to wake up at the "chirrup" and settle down at the "cluck." Following this principle, when hearing the trumpet or battle cry, the rider should avoid approaching the horse in an excited state or bringing any negative energy to it. Whenever possible, during such stressful times, they should stop and allow the horse to rest; and if the situation allows, offer it its morning or evening feed. But the best advice overall is to not choose a high-strung horse for combat.

 (7) Al. "whistling," and see Berenger, ii. 68. {poppusmos}, a sound
    from the lips; {klogmos}, from the cheek.
(7) Al. "whistling," and see Berenger, ii. 68. {poppusmos}, a sound from the lips; {klogmos}, from the cheek.

As to the sluggish type of animal, I need only suggest to do everything the opposite to what we advise as appropriate in dealing with an animal of high spirit.

As for the slow-moving type of animal, I only need to suggest doing everything opposite to how we would handle an energetic animal.

X

X

But possibly you are not content with a horse serviceable for war. You want to find in him a showy, attractive animal, with a certain grandeur of bearing. If so, you must abstain from pulling at his mouth with the bit, or applying the spur and whip—methods commonly adopted by people with a view to a fine effect, though, as a matter of fact, they thereby achieve the very opposite of what they are aiming at. That is to say, by dragging the mouth up they render the horse blind instead of alive to what is in front of him; and what with spurring and whipping they distract the creature to the point of absolute bewilderment and danger. (1) Feats indeed!—the feats of horses with a strong dislike to being ridden—up to all sorts of ugly and ungainly tricks. On the contrary, let the horse be taught to be ridden on a loose bridle, and to hold his head high and arch his neck, and you will practically be making him perform the very acts which he himself delights or rather exults in; and the best proof of the pleasure which he takes is, that when he is let loose with other horses, and more particularly with mares, you will see him rear his head aloft to the full height, and arch his neck with nervous vigour, (2) pawing the air with pliant legs (3) and waving his tail on high. By training him to adopt the very airs and graces which he naturally assumes when showing off to best advantage, you have got what you are aiming at—a horse that delights in being ridden, a splendid and showy animal, the joy of all beholders.

But maybe you’re not satisfied with just a horse that’s good for battle. You want an impressive, attractive animal that has a certain elegance. If that’s the case, you need to avoid yanking on his mouth with the bit or using spurs and whips—techniques that people often rely on to achieve a striking appearance, but which actually do the opposite. By pulling on his mouth, you make the horse less aware of what’s in front of him; and spurring and whipping can confuse him to the point of danger. (1) What a show they put on!—the antics of horses that really don’t want to be ridden, resorting to all sorts of ugly and awkward behaviors. Instead, if you train the horse to be ridden with a loose bridle, keeping his head high and neck arched, you’ll help him perform the actions he enjoys and takes pride in; and the best evidence of his enjoyment is that when he’s let loose with other horses, especially mares, you’ll see him raise his head fully and arch his neck with enthusiasm, (2) pawing the air with flexible legs (3) and lifting his tail high. By teaching him the very movements he naturally shows off when he’s at his best, you’ll achieve what you want—a horse that loves to be ridden, a magnificent and striking animal that everyone admires.

 (1) Al. "the animals are so scared that, the chances are, they are
    thrown into disorder."

 (2) {gorgoumenos}, with pride and spirit, but with a suggestion of
    "fierceness and rage," as of Job's war-horse.

 (3) "Mollia crura reponit," Virg. "Georg." iii. 76; Hom. "Hymn. ad
    Merc."
(1) Al. "The animals are so frightened that they're likely thrown into chaos."

(2) {gorgoumenos}, with pride and energy, but hinting at "fierceness and rage," like Job's battle horse.

(3) "Mollia crura reponit," Virg. "Georg." iii. 76; Hom. "Hymn. ad Merc."

How these desirable results are, in our opinion, to be produced, we will now endeavour to explain. In the first place, then, you ought to have at least two bits. One of these should be smooth, with discs of a good size; the other should have heavy and flat discs (4) studded with sharp spikes, so that when the horse seizes it and dislikes the roughness he will drop it; then when the smooth is given him instead, he is delighted with its smoothness, and whatever he has learnt before upon the rough, he will perform with greater relish on the smooth. He may certainly, out of contempt for its very smoothness, perpetually try to get a purchase on it, and that is why we attach large discs to the smooth bit, the effect of which is to make him open his mouth, and drop the mouthpiece. It is possible to make the rough bit of every degree of roughness by keeping it slack or taut.

How we think these desirable results can be achieved, we will now explain. First, you should have at least two bits. One should be smooth, with reasonably sized discs; the other should have heavy, flat discs studded with sharp spikes. This way, when the horse takes the rough bit and doesn't like how it feels, he will drop it; then when you give him the smooth one instead, he'll appreciate its smoothness, and whatever he's learned from the rough bit, he will do with more enthusiasm on the smooth one. He might try to get a grip on it out of disdain for its smoothness, which is why we attach large discs to the smooth bit. This encourages him to open his mouth and drop the mouthpiece. You can create varying degrees of roughness in the rough bit by keeping it either slack or taut.

 (4) See Morgan, op. cit. p. 144 foll.
(4) See Morgan, cited work, p. 144 and following.

But, whatever the type of bit may be, let it in any case be flexible. If it be stiff, at whatever point the horse seizes it he must take it up bodily against his jaws; just as it does not matter at what point a man takes hold of a bar of iron, (5) he lifts it as a whole. The other flexibly constructed type acts like a chain (only the single point at which you hold it remains stiff, the rest hangs loose); and while perpetually hunting for the portion which escapes him, he lets the mouthpiece go from his bars. (6) For this reason the rings are hung in the middle from the two axles, (7) so that while feeling for them with his tongue and teeth he may neglect to take the bit up against his jaws.

But, no matter what type of bit it is, it should definitely be flexible. If it's stiff, whenever the horse takes it, he has to lift it completely with his jaws; just like it doesn’t matter where a person grabs a bar of iron, he lifts it as a whole. The other type that's flexible works like a chain (only the point where you hold it stays stiff, while the rest hangs loosely); and while he's constantly searching for the part he can't grasp, he ends up dropping the mouthpiece from his bars. For this reason, the rings are attached in the middle of the two axles, so while he feels for them with his tongue and teeth, he doesn't pick the bit up against his jaws.

 (5) Or, "poker," as we might say; lit. "spit."

 (6) Schneid. cf. Eur. "Hippol." 1223.

 (7) See Morgan, note ad loc. Berenger (i. 261) notes: "We have a small
    chain in the upset or hollow part of our bits, called a 'Player,'
    with which the horse playing with his tongue, and rolling it
    about, keeps his mouth moist and fresh; and, as Xenophon hints, it
    may serve likewise to fix his attention and prevent him from
    writhing his mouth about, or as the French call it, 'faire ses
    forces.'"
(5) Or, "poker," as we might say; literally "spit."

(6) Schneid. cf. Eur. "Hippol." 1223.

(7) See Morgan, note ad loc. Berenger (i. 261) notes: "We have a small chain in the upset or hollow part of our bits, called a 'Player,' which the horse uses to play with his tongue and roll it around, keeping his mouth moist and fresh; and, as Xenophon suggests, it might also help focus his attention and stop him from twisting his mouth around, or as the French say, 'faire ses forces.'"

To explain what is meant by flexible and stiff as applied to a bit, we will describe the matter. A flexible bit is one in which the axles have their points of junction broad and smooth, (8) so as to bend easily; and where the several parts fitting round the axles, being large of aperture and not too closely packed, have greater flexibility; whereas, if the several parts do not slide to and fro with ease, and play into each other, that is what we call a stiff bit. Whatever the kind of bit may be, the rider must carry out precisely the same rules in using it, as follows, if he wishes to turn out a horse with the qualities described. The horse's mouth is not to be pulled back too harshly so as to make him toss his head aside, nor yet so gently that he will not feel the pressure. But the instant he raises his neck in answer to the pull, give him the bit at once; and so throughout, as we never cease repeating, at every response to your wishes, whenever and wherever the animal performs his service well, (9) reward and humour him. Thus, when the rider perceives that the horse takes a pleasure in the high arching and supple play of his neck, let him seize the instant not to impose severe exertion on him, like a taskmaster, but rather to caress and coax him, as if anxious to give him a rest. In this way the horse will be encouraged and fall into a rapid pace.

To explain what we mean by flexible and stiff when it comes to a bit, let’s break it down. A flexible bit is one where the axles have wide and smooth junctions, making it easy to bend; and where the parts surrounding the axles have larger openings and aren’t too tightly packed, allowing for greater flexibility. On the other hand, if the parts don’t slide or move easily against each other, that’s what we call a stiff bit. No matter the type of bit, the rider must follow the same basic rules when using it if they want the horse to have the qualities described. The horse's mouth shouldn’t be pulled back too harshly to avoid making him toss his head, nor too gently that he doesn’t feel the pressure. But the moment he raises his neck in response to the pull, give him the bit right away; and throughout the ride, as we keep repeating, reward and encourage him every time he responds to your wishes and does his job well. So, when the rider notices that the horse enjoys the raised, flexible movement of his neck, he should take the opportunity to not push him hard like a taskmaster, but instead, to stroke and encourage him, as if wanting him to take a break. This way, the horse will feel motivated and pick up a quick pace.

 (8) i.e. "the ends of the axles (at the point of junction) which work
    into each other are broad and smooth, so as to play freely at the
    join."

 (9) "Behaves compliantly."
 (8) i.e. "the ends of the axles (where they connect) are wide and smooth, allowing them to move freely at the joint."

 (9) "Acts obediently."

That a horse takes pleasure in swift movement, may be shown conclusively. As soon as he has got his liberty, he sets off at a trot or gallop, never at a walking pace; so natural and instinctive a pleasure does this action afford him, if he is not forced to perform it to excess; since it is true of horse and man alike that nothing is pleasant if carried to excess. (10)

That a horse enjoys moving quickly can be clearly demonstrated. As soon as he is free, he starts trotting or galloping, never walking; this action brings him such a natural and instinctive joy, as long as he’s not made to do it too much. It’s true for both horses and humans that nothing is enjoyable if done excessively. (10)

 (10) L. Dind. cf. Eur. "Med." 128, {ta de' uperballont oudena kairon}.
(10) L. Dind. cf. Eur. "Med." 128, {the ones who are outside of luck have no opportunities}.

But now suppose he has attained to the grand style when ridden—we have accustomed him of course in his first exercise to wheel and fall into a canter simultaneously; assuming then, he has got that lesson well by heart, if the rider pulls him up with the bit while simultaneously giving him one of the signals to be off, the horse, galled on the one hand by the bit, and on the other collecting himself in obedience to the signal "off," will throw forward his chest and raise his legs aloft with fiery spirit; though not indeed with suppleness, for the supple play of the limbs ceases as soon as the horse feels annoyance. But now, supposing when his fire is thus enkindled (11) you give him the rein, the effect is instantaneous. Under the pleasurable sense of freedom, thanks to the relaxation of the bit, with stately bearing and legs pliantly moving he dashes forward in his pride, in every respect imitating the airs and graces of a horse approaching other horses. Listen to the epithets with which spectators will describe the type of horse: the noble animal! and what willingness to work, what paces, (12) what a spirit and what mettle; how proudly he bears himself (13)—a joy at once, and yet a terror to behold.

But now let's say he's reached that elevated level of performance when being ridden—we’ve trained him, of course, in his early exercises to turn and break into a canter at the same time. Assuming he’s mastered that lesson, if the rider pulls him up with the bit while also giving him the cue to go, the horse, irritated by the bit on one side and responding to the signal to go on the other, will thrust his chest forward and lift his legs energetically; though not with much flexibility, because the smooth movement of his limbs stops as soon as the horse feels discomfort. Now, if when his excitement is lit you give him the reins, the result is immediate. Under the enjoyable feeling of freedom, thanks to the relaxed bit, he moves forward with a proud stance and fluid legs, showing off in every way like a horse approaching others. Listen to how the viewers will describe him: what a noble creature! And look at his eagerness to work, his strides, his spirit, and his grit; how proudly he carries himself—a sight that brings both joy and a bit of fear.

 (11) Cf. "Hell." V. iv. 46, "kindled into new life."

 (12) {ipposten}, "a true soldier's horse."

 (13) {sobaron}, "what a push and swagger"; {kai ama edun te kai gorgon
    idein}, "a la fois doux et terrible a voir," see Victor
    Cherbuliez, "Un Cheval de Phidias," p. 148.
(11) Cf. "Hell." V. iv. 46, "lit up into new life."

(12) {ipposten}, "a real soldier's horse."

(13) {sobaron}, "what a show of strength and swagger"; {kai ama edun te kai gorgon idein}, "both sweet and terrifying to see," refer to Victor Cherbuliez, "Un Cheval de Phidias," p. 148.

Thus far on this topic; these notes may serve perhaps to meet a special need.

Thus far on this topic, these notes may help fulfill a specific need.

XI

XI

If, however, the wish is to secure a horse adapted to parade and state processions, a high stepper and a showy (1) animal, these are qualities not to be found combined in every horse, but to begin with, the animal must have high spirit and a stalwart body. Not that, as some think, a horse with flexible legs will necessarily be able to rear his body. What we want is a horse with supple loins, and not supple only but short and strong (I do not mean the loins towards the tail, but by the belly the region between the ribs and thighs). That is the horse who will be able to plant his hind-legs well under the forearm. If while he is so planting his hind-quarters, he is pulled up with the bit, he lowers his hind-legs on his hocks (2) and raises the forepart of his body, so that any one in front of him will see the whole length of his belly to the sheath. (3) At the moment the horse does this, the rider should give him the rein, so that he may display the noblest feats which a horse can perform of his own free will, to the satisfaction of the spectators.

If you want to get a horse that's suited for parades and formal events, one that can high-step and looks impressive, those traits aren't found in every horse. First off, the horse needs to have a lively spirit and a strong body. Contrary to what some believe, a horse with flexible legs won’t automatically be able to rear up. What we really need is a horse with strong, flexible loins—not flexible towards the tail, but short and sturdy in the area between the ribs and thighs. That’s the kind of horse that can position its hind legs correctly under its front. If, while doing this, the horse is pulled up by the bit, it will lower its hind legs on its hocks and lift the front of its body, allowing someone in front to see the entire length of its belly to the sheath. At that moment, the rider should loosen the reins so the horse can perform the best displays it can achieve on its own, impressing the spectators.

 (1) {lampros}. Cf. Isae. xi. 41 ("On the estate of Hagnias"), Lys.
    xix. 63 ("de Bon. Arist.").

 (2) See Berenger, ii. 68.

 (3) Lit. "testicles."
(1) {lampros}. Cf. Isae. xi. 41 ("On the estate of Hagnias"), Lys. xix. 63 ("de Bon. Arist.").

(2) See Berenger, ii. 68.

(3) Literally, "testicles."

There are, indeed, other methods of teaching these arts. (4) Some do so by touching the horse with a switch under the hocks, others employ an attendant to run alongside and strike the horse with a stick under the gaskins. For ourselves, however, far the best method of instruction, (5) as we keep repeating, is to let the horse feel that whatever he does in obedience to the rider's wishes will be followed by some rest and relaxation.

There are certainly other ways to teach these skills. (4) Some apply a switch under the horse's hocks, while others have an assistant running alongside to hit the horse with a stick under the gaskins. For us, however, the best teaching method, (5) as we keep saying, is to let the horse understand that anything he does in response to the rider's requests will lead to some rest and relaxation.

 (4) Lit. "People, it must be admitted, claim to teach these arts in
    various ways—some by... others by bidding..."

 (5) Reading {didaskalion}, al. {didaskalion}, "systems." Schneid. cf.
    Herod. v. 58.
(4) Clearly, people now claim to teach these skills in different ways—some by... others by instructing...

(5) Reading {didaskalion}, also {didaskalion}, "systems." Schneid. cf. Herod. v. 58.

To quote a dictum of Simon, what a horse does under compulsion he does blindly, and his performance is no more beautiful than would be that of a ballet-dancer taught by whip and goad. The performances of horse or man so treated would seem to be displays of clumsy gestures rather than of grace and beauty. What we need is that the horse should of his own accord exhibit his finest airs and paces at set signals. (6) Supposing, when he is in the riding-field, (7) you push him to a gallop until he is bathed in sweat, and when he begins to prance and show his airs to fine effect, you promptly dismount and take off the bit, you may rely upon it he will of his own accord another time break into the same prancing action. Such are the horses on which gods and heroes ride, as represented by the artist. The majesty of men themselves is best discovered in the graceful handling of such animals. (8) A horse so prancing is indeed a thing of beauty, a wonder and a marvel; riveting the gaze of all who see him, young alike and graybeards. They will never turn their backs, I venture to predict, or weary of their gazing so long as he continues to display his splendid action.

To quote Simon, a horse that is forced to perform does so without thought, and his performance is no more beautiful than that of a ballet dancer who is trained with a whip and spurs. The performances of either a horse or a person treated this way would seem to be awkward motions rather than graceful and beautiful displays. What we really want is for the horse to showcase his best moves and paces willingly at specific cues. (6) Imagine, when you're in the riding arena, (7) you push him to gallop until he's dripping with sweat, and when he starts to prance and show off his moves, you quickly get off and take off the bit. You can count on him to willingly break into the same prancing action next time. These are the kinds of horses that gods and heroes are depicted riding, as artists portray. The true majesty of men is best revealed in the elegant way they handle such animals. (8) A prancing horse is a sight to behold, a wonder and a marvel; it captures the attention of everyone watching, both young and old. I can predict they will never look away or tire of watching as long as he continues to show off his magnificent movements.

 (6) Or, "by aids and signs," as we say.

 (7) Or, "exercising-ground."

 (8) Or, "and the man who knows how to manage such a creature
    gracefully himself at once appears magnificent."
(6) Or, "with help and signals," as we say.

(7) Or, "training area."

(8) Or, "and the person who knows how to handle such a creature gracefully instantly looks impressive."

If the possessor of so rare a creature should find himself by chance in the position of a squadron leader or a general of cavalry, he must not confine his zeal to the development of his personal splendour, but should study all the more to make the troop or regiment a splendid spectacle. Supposing (in accordance with the high praise bestowed upon the type of animal) (9) the leader is mounted on a horse which with his high airs and frequent prancing makes but the slightest movement forward—obviously the rest of the troop must follow at a walking pace, and one may fairly ask where is the element of splendour in the spectacle? But now suppose that you, sir, being at the head of the procession, rouse your horse and take the lead at a pace neither too fast nor yet too slow, but in a way to bring out the best qualities in all the animals, their spirit, fire, grace of mien and bearing ripe for action—I say, if you take the lead of them in this style, the collective thud, the general neighing and the snorting of the horses will combine to render not only you at the head, but your whole company (10) down to the last man a thrilling spectacle.

If someone lucky enough to own such a rare creature finds themselves in the role of a squadron leader or a cavalry general, they shouldn't just focus on their own impressive appearance. Instead, they should work even harder to make the troop or regiment a captivating sight. Imagine that, based on the high praise this kind of animal receives, the leader is riding a horse that, with its proud demeanor and constant prancing, hardly moves forward—obviously, the rest of the troop would have to walk slowly, and you might rightly ask where the spectacle is in that? But now picture this: you, leading the procession, energize your horse and set a pace that’s just right—not too fast, but not too slow—allowing all the animals to shine in their spirit, energy, and grace, ready for action. If you take the lead in this way, the collective sound of the hooves, the general neighing, and the snorting of the horses will create an exciting spectacle not just for you at the front, but for your entire group, right down to the last person.

 (9) Reading as vulg. {os malista epainousi tous toioutous ippous, os}.
    L. Dind. omits the words as a gloss.

 (10) Reading {oi} (for {osoi}) {sumparepomenoi}. See Hartmann, "An.
    Xen. Nov." xiv. p. 343.
(9) Reading as vulg. {os malista epainousi tous toioutous ippous, os}.  
    L. Dind. omits the words as a gloss.

(10) Reading {oi} (for {osoi}) {sumparepomenoi}. See Hartmann, "An. Xen. Nov." xiv. p. 343.

One word more. Supposing a man has shown some skill in purchasing his horses, and can rear them into strong and serviceable animals, supposing further he can handle them in the right way, not only in the training for war, but in exercises with a view to display, or lastly, in the stress of actual battle, what is there to prevent such a man from making every horse he owns of far more value in the end than when he bought it, with the further outlook that, unless some power higher than human interpose, (11) he will become the owner of a celebrated stable, and himself as celebrated for his skill in horsemanship.

One more thing. If a guy has shown skill in buying his horses and can raise them into strong and useful animals, and if he knows how to handle them properly—not just for training in battle, but also for showcasing them, or even during the actual heat of conflict—what's stopping him from increasing the value of every horse he owns over time? Furthermore, unless some greater power intervenes, he could end up with a famous stable and gain recognition for his horsemanship skills.

 (11) Or, "there is nothing, humanly speaking, to prevent such a man."
    For the phrase see "Mem." I. iii. 5; cf. "Cyrop." I. vi. 18; and
    for the advice, "Econ." iii. 9, 10.
(11) Or, "there's nothing, from a human perspective, stopping such a person."  
For the phrase see "Mem." I. iii. 5; cf. "Cyrop." I. vi. 18; and  
for the advice, "Econ." iii. 9, 10.

XII

XII

We will now describe the manner in which a trooper destined to run the risks of battle upon horseback should be armed. In the first place, then, we would insist, the corselet must be made to fit the person; since, if it fits well, its weight will be distributed over the whole body; whereas, if too loose, the shoulders will have all the weight to bear, while, if too tight, the corselet is no longer a defensive arm, but a "strait jacket." (1) Again, the neck, as being a vital part, (2) ought to have, as we maintain, a covering, appended to the corselet and close-fitting. This will serve as an ornament, and if made as it ought to be, will conceal the rider's face—if so he chooses—up to the nose.

We will now explain how a trooper, set to face the dangers of battle on horseback, should be equipped. First of all, the corslet needs to fit properly; if it fits well, its weight will be evenly distributed across the body. However, if it’s too loose, the shoulders will bear all the weight, and if it’s too tight, the corslet becomes more of a "strait jacket" than protective gear. (1) Additionally, the neck, being a vital area, (2) should have a covering attached to the corslet that fits closely. This will serve as decoration, and if designed correctly, it will allow the rider to cover his face—if he wishes—up to the nose.

 (1) Cf. "Mem." III. x.

 (2) L. Dind. cf. Hom. "Il." viii. 326:
(1) Cf. "Mem." III. x.

(2) L. Dind. cf. Hom. "Il." viii. 326:

{... othi kleis apoergei aukhena te stethos te, malista de kairion estin.}

{... othi kleis apoergei aukhena te stethos te, malista de kairion estin.}

"Where the collar-bone fenceth off neck and breast, and where is the most deadly spot" (W. Leaf).

"Where the collarbone separates the neck and chest, and where the most dangerous point is." (W. Leaf).

As to the helmet, the best kind, in our opinion, is one of the Boeotian pattern, (3) on the principle again, that it covers all the parts exposed above the breastplate without hindering vision. Another point: the corselet should be so constructed that it does not prevent its wearer sitting down or stooping. About the abdomen and the genitals and parts surrounding (4) flaps should be attached in texture and in thickness sufficient to protect (5) that region.

As for the helmet, we think the best type is the Boeotian style, since it covers all the areas above the breastplate without blocking vision. Another thing: the corselet should be designed in a way that allows the wearer to sit down or bend over comfortably. For the abdomen, genitals, and the surrounding areas, flaps should be attached with enough texture and thickness to provide adequate protection.

 (3) Schneider cf. Aelian, "V. H." iii. 24; Pollux, i. 149.

 (4) Schneider cf. "Anab." IV. vii. 15, and for {kai ta kuklo}, conj.
    {kuklo}, "the abdomen and middle should be encircled by a skirt."

 (5) Lit. "let there be wings of such sort, size, and number as to
    protect the limbs."
(3) Schneider cf. Aelian, "V. H." iii. 24; Pollux, i. 149.

(4) Schneider cf. "Anab." IV. vii. 15, and for {kai ta kuklo}, conj.
    {kuklo}, "the abdomen and middle should be encircled by a skirt."

(5) Literally, "let there be wings of such kind, size, and number as to
    protect the limbs."

Again, as an injury to the left hand may disable the horseman, we would recommend the newly-invented piece of armour called the gauntlet, which protects the shoulder, arm, and elbow, with the hand engaged in holding the reins, being so constructed as to extend and contract; in addition to which it covers the gap left by the corselet under the armpit. The case is different with the right hand, which the horseman must needs raise to discharge a javelin or strike a blow. Here, accordingly, any part of the corselet which would hinder action out to be removed; in place of which the corselet ought to have some extra flaps (6) at the joints, which as the outstretched arm is raised unfold, and as the arm descends close tight again. The arm itself, (7) it seems to us, will better be protected by a piece like a greave stretched over it than bound up with the corselet. Again, the part exposed when the right hand is raised should be covered close to the corselet either with calfskin or with metal; or else there will be a want of protection just at the most vital point.

Again, just like an injury to the left hand can disable the rider, we suggest using the newly invented piece of armor called the gauntlet. It protects the shoulder, arm, and elbow, while allowing the hand to hold the reins and is designed to stretch and contract. Additionally, it covers the gap left by the chest armor under the armpit. The situation is different for the right hand, which the rider needs to lift to throw a javelin or strike. Therefore, any part of the chest armor that would limit movement should be removed; instead, it should have some extra flaps at the joints that open as the arm is raised and close tightly again as it lowers. It seems to us that the arm would be better protected by a piece similar to a greave covering it rather than being bound up with the chest armor. Moreover, the area exposed when the right hand is raised should be covered close to the chest armor with calfskin or metal; otherwise, there will be a lack of protection at the most critical point.

 (6) {prosthetai}, "moveable," "false." For {gigglumois} L. & S. cf.
    Hipp. 411. 12; Aristot. "de An." iii. 10. 9 = "ball-and-socket
    joints."

 (7) i.e. "forearm."
(6) {prosthetai}, "movable," "false." For {gigglumois} L. & S. see Hipp. 411. 12; Aristot. "de An." iii. 10. 9 = "ball-and-socket joints."

(7) i.e. "forearm."

Moreover, as any damage done to the horse will involve his rider in extreme peril, the horse also should be clad in armour—frontlet, breastplate, and thigh-pieces; (8) which latter may at the same time serve as cuisses for the mounted man. Beyond all else, the horse's belly, being the most vital and defenceless part, should be protected. It is possible to protect it with the saddle-cloth. The saddle itself should be of such sort and so stitched as to give the rider a firm seat, and yet not gall the horse's back.

Moreover, since any harm to the horse puts the rider in great danger, the horse should also be equipped with armor—forehead guard, breastplate, and thigh guards; (8) the latter can also serve as leg armor for the rider. Most importantly, the horse's belly, which is the most vulnerable and essential area, needs to be protected. This can be done with a saddle cloth. The saddle itself should be designed and stitched in a way that provides the rider with a secure seat while not causing discomfort to the horse's back.

 (8) Cf. "Cyrop." VI. iv. 1; VII. i. 2.
(8) Cf. "Cyrop." VI. iv. 1; VII. i. 2.

As regards the limbs in general, both horse and rider may be looked upon as fully armed. The only parts remaining are the shins and feet, which of course protrude beyond the cuisses, but these also may be armed by the addition of gaiters made of leather like that used for making sandals. And thus you will have at once defensive armour for the shins and stockings for the feet.

When it comes to the limbs overall, both the horse and rider can be seen as fully protected. The only areas left unprotected are the shins and feet, which stick out past the thigh guards, but these can also be covered with leather gaiters similar to those used for sandals. This way, you will have both protective armor for the shins and coverings for the feet.

The above, with the blessing of heaven, will serve for armour of defence. To come to weapons of offence, we recommend the sabre rather than the straight sword, (9) since from the vantage-ground of the horse's position the curved blade will descend with greater force than the ordinary weapon.

The above, with the blessing of heaven, will serve as armor for defense. To discuss offensive weapons, we suggest the saber over the straight sword, (9) since from the horse's height, the curved blade will strike with more power than the regular sword.

 (9) The {makhaira} (or {kopis}), Persian fashion, rather than the
    {xephos}. "Cyrop." I. ii. 13.
(9) The {makhaira} (or {kopis}), in Persian style, instead of the {xephos}. "Cyrop." I. ii. 13.

Again, in place of the long reed spear, which is apt to be weak and awkward to carry, we would substitute two darts of cornel-wood; (10) the one of which the skilful horseman can let fly, and still ply the one reserved in all directions, forwards, backwards, (11) and obliquely; add to that, these smaller weapons are not only stronger than the spear but far more manageable.

Again, instead of the long reed spear, which can be weak and difficult to carry, we would replace it with two darts made of cornel wood; the skilled rider can throw one while still using the other in any direction—forward, backward, and at angles. Plus, these smaller weapons are not only stronger than the spear but also much easier to handle.

 (10) For these reforms, the result of the author's Asiatic experiences
    perhaps, cf. "Hell." III. iv. 14; "Anab." I. viii. 3; "Cyrop." I.
    ii. 9.

 (11) Reading {eis toupisthen} after Leoncl.
 (10) For these reforms, possibly influenced by the author's experiences in Asia, see "Hell." III. iv. 14; "Anab." I. viii. 3; "Cyrop." I. ii. 9.

 (11) Reading {eis toupisthen} after Leoncl.

As regards range of discharge in shooting we are in favour of the longest possible, as giving more time to rally (12) and transfer the second javelin to the right hand. And here we will state shortly the most effective method of hurling the javelin. The horseman should throw forward his left side, while drawing back his right; then rising bodily from the thighs, he should let fly the missile with the point slightly upwards. The dart so discharged will carry with the greatest force and to the farthest distance; we may add, too, with the truest aim, if at the moment of discharge the lance be directed steadily on the object aimed at. (13)

In terms of shooting distance, we support going for the longest possible range, as it allows more time to prepare (12) and switch the second javelin to the right hand. Here, we’ll briefly outline the most effective way to throw the javelin. The horseman should lean forward with his left side while pulling back his right. Then, by rising from the thighs, he should launch the missile with the tip pointed slightly upward. This way, the dart will be thrown with maximum force and the greatest distance; we can also add that it will be the most accurate if, at the moment of release, the lance is aimed steadily at the target. (13)

 (12) Al. "to turn right-about."

 (13) "If the lance is steadily eyeing the mark at the instant of
    discharge."
(12) Al. "to turn around."

(13) "If the lance is focused on the target at the moment of release."

This treatise, consisting of notes and suggestions, lessons and exercises suited to a private individual, must come to a conclusion; the theory and practice of the matter suited to a cavalry commander will be found developed in the companion treatise. (14)

This document, made up of notes and suggestions, lessons and exercises aimed at an individual, must come to an end; the theory and practice relevant to a cavalry commander will be explored in the accompanying document. (14)

 (14) In reference to "The Cavalry General", or "Hipparch."
(14) In reference to "The Cavalry General," or "Hipparch."










Download ePUB

If you like this ebook, consider a donation!