This is a modern-English version of Camps and Trails in China: A Narrative of Exploration, Adventure, and Sport in Little-Known China, originally written by Andrews, Roy Chapman, Andrews, Yvette Borup. It has been thoroughly updated, including changes to sentence structure, words, spelling, and grammar—to ensure clarity for contemporary readers, while preserving the original spirit and nuance. If you click on a paragraph, you will see the original text that we modified, and you can toggle between the two versions.

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- i -

CAMPS AND TRAILS
IN CHINA

- ii -

Our Camp on Snow Mountain at an Elevation of 12,000 Feet

- iii -

CAMPS AND TRAILS
IN CHINA

A NARRATIVE OF EXPLORATION, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT
IN LITTLE-KNOWN CHINA

A STORY OF EXPLORATION, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT
IN LITTLE-KNOWN CHINA

ROY CHAPMAN ANDREWS, M.A.

ASSOCIATE CURATOR OF MAMMALS IN THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY AND
LEADER OF THE MUSEUM'S ASIATIC ZOÖLOGICAL EXPEDITION OF 1916-1917;
FELLOW NEW YORK ACADEMY OF SCIENCES; CORRESPONDING MEMBER
ZOÖLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON; MEMBER OF THE BIOLOGICAL
SOCIETY OF WASHINGTON; AUTHOR "WHALEHUNTING
WITH GUN AND CAMERA"

ASSOCIATE CURATOR OF MAMMALS AT THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY AND
LEADER OF THE MUSEUM'S ASIATIC ZOOLOGICAL EXPEDITION OF 1916-1917;
FELLOW OF THE NEW YORK ACADEMY OF SCIENCES; CORRESPONDING MEMBER
OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON; MEMBER OF THE BIOLOGICAL
SOCIETY OF WASHINGTON; AUTHOR OF "WHALE HUNTING
WITH GUN AND CAMERA"

AND

YVETTE BORUP ANDREWS

PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE ASIATIC ZOÖLOGICAL EXPEDITION

PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE ASIAN ZOOLOGICAL EXPEDITION

ILLUSTRATED

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
NEW YORK LONDON
1918

- iv -

- IV -

Printed in the United States of America

- v -

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO

This book is dedicated to

PRESIDENT HENRY FAIRFIELD OSBORN

AS AN EXPRESSION OF GRATITUDE
AND ADMIRATION

AS A WAY OF SAYING THANK YOU
AND RESPECT

- vii -

"Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us;

Let us journey to a lonely land I know.

There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to guide us,

And the Wild is calling, calling ... let us go."

—Service.

—Service.

- viii -

- ix -

PREFACE

The object of this book is to present a popular narrative of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum of Natural History to China in 1916-17. Details of a purely scientific nature have been condensed, or eliminated, and emphasis has been placed upon our experiences with the strange natives and animals of a remote and little known region in the hope that the book will be interesting to the general reader.

The goal of this book is to provide an engaging account of the Asiatic Zoological Expedition of the American Museum of Natural History to China in 1916-17. We have simplified or removed purely scientific details and focused on our experiences with the unique natives and animals of this remote, lesser-known area, hoping that the book will appeal to general readers.

The scientific reputation of the Expedition will rest upon the technical reports of its work which will be published in due course by the American Museum of Natural History. To these reports we would refer those readers who desire more complete information concerning the results of our researches. At the time the manuscript of this volume was sent to press the collections were still undergoing preparation and the study of the different groups had just begun.

The scientific reputation of the Expedition will depend on the technical reports of its work that will be published in due time by the American Museum of Natural History. We encourage readers seeking more detailed information about our research results to refer to these reports. When the manuscript for this volume was sent to press, the collections were still being prepared, and the study of the different groups had just started.

Although the book has been largely written by the senior author, his collaborator has contributed six chapters marked with her initials; all the illustrations are from her photographs and continual use has been made of her daily journals; she has, moreover, materially assisted in reference work and in numerous other ways.

Although the book has mostly been written by the main author, his collaborator has contributed six chapters marked with her initials; all the illustrations come from her photographs, and her daily journals have been continuously referenced; she has also significantly helped with research and in many other ways.

The information concerning the relationships and distribution of the native tribes of Yün-nan is largely drawn from the excellent reference work by Major H. R. Davies and we have followed his spelling of Chinese names.

The information about the relationships and distribution of the native tribes of Yün-nan is mainly taken from the outstanding reference book by Major H. R. Davies, and we have used his spelling of Chinese names.

Parts of the book have been published as separate articles in the American Museum Journal, Harper's Magazine, and Asia and to the editors of the above publications our acknowledgments are due.

Parts of the book have been published as separate articles in the American Museum Journal, Harper's Magazine, and Asia, and we owe our thanks to the editors of those publications.

That the Expedition obtained a very large and representative - x - collection of small mammals is owing in a great measure to the efforts of Mr. Edmund Heller, our companion in the field. He worked tirelessly in the care and preservation of the specimens, and the fact that they reached New York in excellent condition is, in itself, the best testimony to the skill and thoroughness with which they were prepared.

That the Expedition gathered a significant and diverse collection of small mammals is largely thanks to Mr. Edmund Heller, our field companion. He put in a tremendous effort into the care and preservation of the specimens, and the fact that they arrived in New York in excellent condition is strong evidence of the skill and thoroughness with which they were prepared.

Our Chinese interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, contributed largely to the success of the Expedition. His faithful and enthusiastic devotion to our interests and his tact and resourcefulness under trying circumstances won our lasting gratitude and affectionate regard.

Our Chinese interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, played a significant role in the success of the Expedition. His loyal and passionate commitment to our interests, along with his skill and ability to handle difficult situations, earned our lasting gratitude and fond appreciation.

The nineteen months during which we were in Asia are among the most memorable of our lives and we wish to express our deepest gratitude to the Trustees of the American Museum of Natural History, and especially to President Henry Fairfield Osborn, whose enthusiastic endorsement and loyal support made the Expedition possible. Director F. A. Lucas, Dr. J. A. Allen and Mr. George H. Sherwood were unfailing in furthering our interests, and to them we extend our hearty thanks.

The nineteen months we spent in Asia are some of the most unforgettable of our lives, and we want to express our heartfelt gratitude to the Trustees of the American Museum of Natural History, especially President Henry Fairfield Osborn, whose enthusiastic support made the Expedition possible. Director F. A. Lucas, Dr. J. A. Allen, and Mr. George H. Sherwood were always dedicated to advancing our interests, and we give them our sincere thanks.

To the following patrons, who by their generous contributions materially assisted in the financing of the Expedition, we wish to acknowledge our great personal indebtedness as well as that of the Museum; Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M. Colgate, Messrs. George Bowdoin, Lincoln Ellsworth, James B. Ford, Henry C. Frick, Childs Frick, and Mrs. Adrian Hoffman Joline.

To the following patrons, who by their generous contributions significantly helped finance the Expedition, we want to express our deep personal gratitude as well as that of the Museum; Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M. Colgate, Mr. George Bowdoin, Lincoln Ellsworth, James B. Ford, Henry C. Frick, Childs Frick, and Mrs. Adrian Hoffman Joline.

The Expedition received many courtesies while in the field from the following gentlemen, without whose coöperation it would have been impossible to have carried on the work successfully. Their services have been referred to individually in subsequent parts of the book: The Director of the Bureau of Foreign Affairs of the Province of Yün-nan; M. Georges Chemin Dupontès, Director de l'Exploration de la Compagnie Française des Chemins de Fer de l'Indochine et du Yün-nan, Hanoi, Tonking; M. Henry Wilden, Consul de France, Shanghai; - xi - M. Kraemer, Consul de France, Hongkong; Mr. Howard Page, Standard Oil Co., Yün-nan Fu; the Hon. Paul Reinsch, Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary to the Chinese Republic, Mr. J. V. A. McMurray, First Secretary of the American Legation, Peking; Mr. H. G. Evans, British-American Tobacco Co., Hongkong; the Rev. William Hanna, Ta-li Fu; the Rev. A. Kok, Li-chiang Fu; Ralph Grierson, Esq., Teng-yueh; Herbert Goffe, Esq., H. B. M. Consul General, Yün-nan Fu; Messrs. C. R. Kellogg, and H. W. Livingstone, Foochow, China; the General Passenger Agent, Canadian Pacific Railroad Company, Hongkong; and the Rev. H. R. Caldwell, Yen-ping, who has read parts of this book in manuscript and who through his criticisms has afforded us the benefit of his long experience in China.

The Expedition received a lot of support while in the field from several individuals, without whom it would have been impossible to carry out the work successfully. Their contributions have been mentioned individually in later sections of the book: The Director of the Bureau of Foreign Affairs of the Province of Yün-nan; M. Georges Chemin Dupontès, Director of Exploration for the French Indochina and Yün-nan Railway Company, Hanoi, Tonkin; M. Henry Wilden, French Consul in Shanghai; - xi - M. Kraemer, French Consul in Hong Kong; Mr. Howard Page, Standard Oil Co., Yün-nan Fu; the Hon. Paul Reinsch, Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary to the Chinese Republic; Mr. J. V. A. McMurray, First Secretary of the American Legation in Beijing; Mr. H. G. Evans, British-American Tobacco Co., Hong Kong; the Rev. William Hanna, Ta-li Fu; the Rev. A. Kok, Li-chiang Fu; Ralph Grierson, Esq., Teng-yueh; Herbert Goffe, Esq., H. B. M. Consul General in Yün-nan Fu; Messrs. C. R. Kellogg and H. W. Livingstone, Foochow, China; the General Passenger Agent, Canadian Pacific Railroad Company, Hong Kong; and the Rev. H. R. Caldwell, Yen-ping, who has read parts of this book in draft form and whose feedback has provided us with the advantage of his extensive experience in China.

To Miss Agnes F. Molloy and Miss Anna Katherine Berger we wish to express our appreciation of editorial and other assistance during the preparation of the volume.

To Miss Agnes F. Molloy and Miss Anna Katherine Berger, we want to express our gratitude for your editorial and other support during the preparation of this volume.

Roy Chapman Andrews
Yvette Borup Andrews

Justamere Home,
Lawrence Park,
Bronxville, N. Y.
May 10, 1917.

Justamere Home,
Lawrence Park,
Bronxville, NY.
May 10, 1917.

- xiii -

CHAPTER I

CHAPTER 1

The Object of the Expedition

The Goal of the Expedition

PAGE

The importance of the scientific exploration of Central Asia—The region which the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition investigated—Personnel of the Expedition—Equipment—Applicants for positions upon the Expedition

The importance of the scientific exploration of Central Asia—The region that the Asiatic Zoological Expedition studied—Team members of the Expedition—Gear—Candidates for roles in the Expedition

1-6

CHAPTER II

CHAPTER 2

China in Turmoil

China in Crisis

Yuan Shi-kai—Plot to become emperor of China—The Rebellion—Our arrival in Peking—Passports for Fukien Province—Admiral von Hintze, the German Minister—En route to Shanghai—Death of Yuan Shi-kai

Yuan Shi-kai—Plan to become emperor of China—The Rebellion—Our arrival in Beijing—Passports for Fujian Province—Admiral von Hintze, the German Minister—On the way to Shanghai—Death of Yuan Shi-kai

7-14

CHAPTER III

CHAPTER 3

Up the Min River

Y. B. A.

Y.B.A.

Arrival at Foochow—Foochow—We leave for Yen-ping—The Min River—Our first night in a sampan—Miss Mabel Hartford—Brigands at Yuchi—Yen-ping—Trapping at Yen-ping

Arrival at Foochow—Foochow—We head out for Yen-ping—The Min River—Our first night in a sampan—Miss Mabel Hartford—Bandits at Yuchi—Yen-ping—Trapping at Yen-ping

15-25

CHAPTER IV

CHAPTER 4

A Bat Cave in the Big Ravine

The Temple in the Big Ravine—Hunting serow—A bat apartment house

The Temple in the Big Ravine—Hunting serow—A bat condo

26-81

- xiv -

CHAPTER V

CHAPTER 5

The Yen-ping Rebellion

The Yen-ping Revolt

A message from Mr. Caldwell—Refugees from Yen-ping—Situation in the city—Fighting on Monday morning—Wounded men at the hospital—We do Red Cross work—More fighting—A Chinese puzzle—The missionaries save the city—The narrow escape of a young Chinese—The mission cook—Return to Foochow

82-48

CHAPTER VI

CHAPTER 6

Hunting the Great Invisible

Chasing the Great Unknown

Tiger lairs—Mr. Caldwell's method of hunting—His first tiger—Habits of tigers—Experiences with the Great Invisible—Killing a man-eater—Chinese superstitions—Hunting in the lair

Tiger lairs—Mr. Caldwell's way of hunting—His first tiger—Tiger habits—Experiences with the Great Invisible—Taking down a man-eater—Chinese superstitions—Hunting in the lair

44-58

CHAPTER VII

Chapter 7

The Blue Tiger

Arriving at Lung-tao—The blue tiger—Mr. Caldwell's first view of the beast—The lair in the Long Ravine—Bad luck with the tiger—A meeting in the dark—Ling-suik monastery—Life at the temple—Fukien Province as a collecting ground

Arriving at Lung-tao—The blue tiger—Mr. Caldwell's first sight of the beast—The den in the Long Ravine—Bad luck with the tiger—A nighttime encounter—Ling-suik monastery—Life at the temple—Fukien Province as a collection area

54-66

CHAPTER VIII

CHAPTER 8

The Women of China

Chinese Women

Y. B. A.

Y.B.A.

Schools for girls—Position of women—The Confucian rules—Woman's life in the home—Foot binding—Early marriage—A Chinese wedding

Schools for girls—Women’s roles—The Confucian principles—A woman's life at home—Foot binding—Early marriage—A Chinese wedding

67-73

- xv -

CHAPTER IX

CHAPTER 9

Voyaging to Yün-nan

Traveling to Yün-nan

Outfitting in Hongkong—Food—Guns—Cameras—En route to Tonking—The Island of Hainan—We engage a cook at Paik-hoi—Arrival in Haiphong—Loss of our Ammunition—Hanoi—The railroad to Yün-nan Fu—Yün-nan—The Chinese Foreign Office endorses our plans

Outfitting in Hong Kong—Food—Guns—Cameras—On the way to Tonkin—The Island of Hainan—We hire a cook at Paik-hoi—Arriving in Haiphong—Loss of our ammunition—Hanoi—The train to Yün-nan Fu—Yün-nan—The Chinese Foreign Office approves our plans

74-83

CHAPTER X

On the Road to Ta-li Fu

On the way to Ta-li Fu

Oar caravan—The Yün-nan pack saddle—Temple camps—Chinese mafus—Roads—Country—Ignorance of a Chinese scholar—New mammals—Village life—Opium growing—An opium scandal—Goitre—The Chinese "Mountain schooner"—Horses—Miss Morgan—Brigands—Our guard of soldiers

84-98

CHAPTER XI

Chapter 11

Ta-li Fu

Hsia-kuan—Summer temperature—Lake—Graves—Pagodas—Mr. H. G. Evans—Foreigners of Ta-li Fu—Chinese mandarins—Mammals at Ta-li—Caravan horses and mules—The cook becomes ill

Hsia-kuan—Summer temperature—Lake—Graves—Pagodas—Mr. H. G. Evans—Foreigners of Ta-li Fu—Chinese mandarins—Mammals at Ta-li—Caravan horses and mules—The cook gets sick

99-106

CHAPTER XII

CHAPTER 12

Li-chiang, and the "Temple of the Flowers"

Li-chiang and the "Temple of the Flowers"

Traveling to Li-chiang—Our entrance into the city—The surprise of the foreigners—The temple—Excellent collecting—Small mammals—The Moso natives—Customs—The Snow Mountain—Baron Haendel-Mazzetti

Traveling to Li-chiang—Our arrival in the city—The shock of the foreigners—The temple—Great collecting—Small mammals—The Moso natives—Traditions—The Snow Mountain—Baron Haendel-Mazzetti

107-113

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CHAPTER XIII

CHAPTER 13

Camping in the Clouds

Moso hunters—Primitive guns—Crossbows and poisoned arrows—Dogs—porcupine—New mammals—We find a new camp on the mountain

Moso hunters—Basic guns—Crossbows and poisoned arrows—Dogs—Porcupines—New mammals—We discover a new campsite on the mountain.

114-119

CHAPTER XIV

CHAPTER 14

The First Goral

Killed near camp—A sacrifice to the God of the Hunt—Small mammals—The second goral

120-125

CHAPTER XV

CHAPTER 15

More Gorals

More Goats

Gorals almost invisible—Heller shoots a kid—Collecting material for a Museum group—A splendid hunt—Two gorals—A crested muntjac

Gorals are almost invisible—Heller shoots a young one—Gathering materials for a museum group—An amazing hunt—Two gorals—A crested muntjac

126-188

CHAPTER XVI

CHAPTER 16

The Snow Mountain Temple

The first illness in camp—Serow—Death of the leading dog—Rain—Two more serows—Lolos—Non-Chinese tribes of Yün-nan

The first illness in camp—Serow—Death of the lead dog—Rain—Two more serows—Lolos—Non-Chinese tribes of Yün-nan

184-189

CHAPTER XVII

CHAPTER 17

Gorals and Serows

Gorals and serows

Relationship—Appearance of the serow—Habits—Gorals

140-148

- xvii -

CHAPTER XVIII

CHAPTER 18

The "White Water"

Y. B. A.

YBA

Our new camp—serow—We go to Li-chiang—A burial ceremony—Ancestor worship

Our new camp—serow—we're heading to Li-chiang—a burial ceremony—ancestor worship

140-156

CHAPTER XIX

CHAPTER 19

Across the Yangtze Gorge

Across the Yangtze River Gorge

Traveling to the river—Inaccuracy of the Chinese—First view of the gorge—The Taku ferry—Cares

157-163

CHAPTER XX

Through Unmapped Country

Through Unmapped Territory

Along the rim of the gorge—A beautiful camp at Habala—New mammals—Photographic work—Phete village—Stupid inhabitants—Strange natives—The "Windy Camp"—Hotenfa

Along the edge of the gorge—A beautiful campsite at Habala—New mammals—Photography work—Phete village—Ignorant locals—Unusual natives—The "Windy Camp"—Hotenfa

164-171

CHAPTER XXI

CHAPTER 21

Traveling Toward Tibet

Traveling to Tibet

A hard climb—Our highest camp—A Lolo village—Thanksgiving with the Lolos

A tough ascent—Our highest campsite—A Lolo village—Thanksgiving with the Lolos

172-177

CHAPTER XXII

CHAPTER 22

Stalking Tibetans with a Camera

Following Tibetans with a Camera

Y. B. A.

YBA

Caravans—Tibetans—Dress—Appearance—Photographing frightened natives—Reason for suspicion

Caravans—Tibetans—Clothing—Look—Photographing scared locals—Cause for concern

178-181

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CHAPTER XXIII

CHAPTER 23

Westward to the Mekong River

West to the Mekong River

Snow—Photographing natives—The Snow Mountain again—The Shih-ku ferry—Cranes—"Brahminy ducks"—A well-deserved beating—Chinese soldiers

Snow—Photographing locals—The Snow Mountain again—The Shih-ku ferry—Cranes—"Brahminy ducks"—A well-deserved punishment—Chinese soldiers

182-189

CHAPTER XXIV

CHAPTER 24

Down the Mekong Valley

Down the Mekong River Valley

Arrival at Wei-hsi—The Mekong River—Lutzu natives—Difficulties in the valley—An unexpected goral—Christmas—The salt wells—A snow covered pass—Duck shooting—Return to Ta-li Fu

Arrival at Wei-hsi—The Mekong River—Lutzu natives—Challenges in the valley—An unexpected goral—Christmas—The salt wells—A snow-covered pass—Duck hunting—Return to Ta-li Fu

190-201

CHAPTER XXV

CHAPTER 25

Missionaries We Have Known

Missionaries We've Met

Our observations on work of missionaries in Fukien and Yün-nan Provinces—Mode of living—Servants—Voluntary exile—Medical missionaries—A missionary's experience with the brigands at Yuchi

Our observations on the work of missionaries in Fukien and Yün-nan Provinces—Lifestyle—Helpers—Voluntary exile—Medical missionaries—A missionary's experience with the bandits at Yuchi.

202-211

CHAPTER XXVI

CHAPTER 26

Chinese New Year at Yung-chang

Y. B. A.

Y.B.A.

Traveling to Yung-chang—New Year's customs—Inhabitants of the city—Foot-binding—Caves—Water buffaloes—Chinese cow-caravans—Yung-chang mentioned by Marco Polo

Traveling to Yung-chang—New Year's traditions—Residents of the city—Foot-binding—Caves—Water buffaloes—Chinese cow-caravans—Yung-chang noted by Marco Polo

212-222

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CHAPTER XXVII

CHAPTER 27

Traveling Toward the Tropics

Traveling to the Tropics

Shih-tien plain—Curious inhabitants of the city—A tropical valley at Ma-po-lo—"A little more far"—A splendid camp—Many new mammals—Preparing specimens Sambur—Trapping

Shih-tien plain—Curious residents of the city—A tropical valley in Ma-po-lo—"A little further away"—An impressive camp—Many new mammals—Preparing specimens Sambur—Trapping

223-232

CHAPTER XXVIII

CHAPTER 28

Meng-ting: a Village of Many Tongues

Meng-ting: a Village of Many Languages

The first Shan Village—Priscilla and John Alden—Meng-ting—The Shan mandarin—Young priests—The market—Photographing under difficulties—Suppression of opium growing

The first Shan Village—Priscilla and John Alden—Meng-ting—The Shan mandarin—Young priests—The market—Taking photos under tough conditions—Stopping opium cultivation

233-343

CHAPTER XXIX

CHAPTER 29

Camping on the Nam-ting River

A beautiful camp—The "Dying Rabbit"—Sambur hunting—Jungle fowl—Civets—Pole cats and other animals

244-251

CHAPTER XXX

CHAPTER 30

Monkey Hunting

Monkey hunting

Strange calls in the jangle—Our first gibbons—Relationship and habits—Langurs and baboons—A night in the jungle

Strange calls in the noise—Our first gibbons—Relationship and habits—Langurs and baboons—A night in the jungle

252-259

CHAPTER XXXI

CHAPTER 31

The Shans of the Burma Border

An unfriendly chief—Honest natives—Houses at Nam-ka—Tattooing—Shan tribe—Dress

An unfriendly chief—Honest locals—Houses in Nam-ka—Tattooing—Shan tribe—Clothing

260-263

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CHAPTER XXXII

CHAPTER 32

Prisoners of War in Burma

POWs in Burma

Y. B. A.

The mythical Ma-li-ling—Across the frontier into Burma—The mafus rebel—Ma-li-pa—Captain Clive—Guarding the border—Life at Ma-li-pa

The mythical Ma-li-ling—Across the border into Burma—The mafus rebel—Ma-li-pa—Captain Clive—Guarding the border—Life at Ma-li-pa

264-272

CHAPTER XXXIII

CHAPTER 33

Hunting Peacocks on the Salween River

The Valley at Changlung—The ferry—Peacocks—The stalker stalked—Habits of peafowls

273-280

CHAPTER XXXIV

CHAPTER 34

The Gibbons of Ho-mu-shu

Climbing out of the Salween Valley—A Shan Village—Ho-mu-shu—Camping on a mountain pass—Gibbons—An exciting hunt and a narrow escape—Habits of the "hoolock"

Climbing out of the Salween Valley—A Shan Village—Ho-mu-shu—Camping on a mountain pass—Gibbons—An exhilarating hunt and a close call—Habits of the "hoolock"

281-290

CHAPTER XXXV

CHAPTER 35

Teng-yueh: a Link with Civilization

Teng-yueh: a Connection to Civilization

Tai-ping-pu—Flying squirrels—Lisos—A bat cave—Mail—Teng-yueh—Mr. Ralph Grierson—Tibetan bear cubs

291-297

CHAPTER XXXVI

CHAPTER 36

A Big Game Paradise

A Major Game Hub

Gorals at Hui-yao—Deer—Splendid hunts

Gorals at Hui-yao—Deer—Awesome hunts

298-304

- xxi -

CHAPTER XXXVII

CHAPTER 37

Serow and Sambur

Serow and Sambar

Monkeys at Hai-yao—Muntjacs—A new serow—We move camp to Wa-tien—A fine sambur

Monkeys at Hai-yao—Muntjacs—A new serow—We move camp to Wa-tien—A nice sambur

305-314

CHAPTER XXXVIII

CHAPTER 38

Last Days in China

Final Days in China

Return to Teng-yueh—Packing the specimens—Results of the Expedition—On the road to Bhamo—The chair coolies—Burma vs. China—In civilisation again—Farewell to the Orient

Return to Teng-yueh—Packing the specimens—Results of the Expedition—On the road to Bhamo—The chair coolies—Burma vs. China—In civilization again—Farewell to the Orient

315-322

- xxiii -

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

	FACING PAGE
Our camp on the Snow Mountain at an altitude of 12,000 feet
Frontispiece

Yvette Borup Andrews with a pet Yün-nan squirrel	4
Edmund Heller	4
Roy Chapman Andrews and a goral	4

A Chinese hunter and a muntjac	28
Brigands killed in the Yen-ping Rebellion	28

The Ling-suik monastery	62
A priest of Ling-suik	62

A Chinese mother with her children	70
Chinese women of the coolie class with bound feet	70

Cormorant fishers on the lake at Yün-nan Fu	84
Our camp at Chou Chou on the way to Ta-li Fu	84

The Pagodas at Ta-li Fu	96
The dead of China	96

The residence of Rev. William J. Hanna at Ta-li Fu	102
The gate and main street of Ta-li Fu	102

One of the pagodas at Ta-li Fu	108

A Moso herder	112
A Moso woman	112

The Snow Mountain	116

A cheek gun used by one of our hunters	118
The first goral killed on the Snow Mountain	118

Hotenfa, one of oar Moso hunters, bringing in a goral xxiv -	120
Another Moso hunter with a porcupine	120

A typical goral cliff on the Snow Mountain	132

A serow killed on the Snow Mountain	140
The head of a serow	140

The "white water"	152

A Liso hunter carrying a flying squirrel	162
The chief of our Lolo hunters	162

A Lolo village	174
Lolos seeing their photographs for the first time	174

Travelers in the Mekong valley	180
Two Tibetans	180

The gorge of the Yangtze River	184

A quiet curve of the Mekong River	190

The temple in which we camped at Ta-li Fu	200
A crested muntjac	200

The south gate at Yung-chang	210
A Chinese bride returning to her mother's home at New Year's	210

A Chinese patriarch	224
Young China	224

A Shan village	234
A Shan woman spinning	234

A Kachin woman in the market at Meng-ting	240
One of our Shan hunters with two yellow gibbons	240

Our camp on the Nam-ting River	246
The Shan village at Nam-ka	246

The head of a gibbon killed on the Nam-ting River	254
A civet	254

A Shan girl- 25 -	260
A Shan boy	260

A suspension bridge	288
Mrs. Andrews feeding one of our bear cubs	288

A sambur killed at Wa-tien	302
The head of a muntjac	302

A mountain chair	312
The waterfall at Teng-yueh	312

Map I. The red line indicates the travels of the Expedition	318

Map II. Route of the Expedition in Yün-nan	320

- 1 -

CAMPS AND TRAILS
IN CHINA

CHAPTER I

THE OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION

THE GOAL OF THE EXPEDITION

The earliest remains of primitive man probably will be found somewhere in the vast plateau of Central Asia, north of the Himalaya Mountains. From this region came the successive invasions that poured into Europe from the east, to India from the north, and to China from the west; the migration route to North America led over the Bering Strait and spread fanwise south and southeast to the farthest extremity of South America. The Central Asian plateau at the beginning of the Pleistocene was probably less arid than it is today and there is reason to believe that this general region was not only the distributing center of man but also of many of the forms of mammalian life which are now living in other parts of the world. For instance, our American moose, the wapiti or elk. Rocky Mountain sheep, the so-called mountain goat, and other animals are probably of Central Asian origin.

The earliest remains of early humans are likely to be found somewhere in the vast plateau of Central Asia, north of the Himalaya Mountains. This region was the source of successive invasions that flowed into Europe from the east, into India from the north, and into China from the west; the migration route to North America went over the Bering Strait and spread out south and southeast to the farthest reaches of South America. At the start of the Pleistocene, the Central Asian plateau was probably less dry than it is today, and there’s good reason to believe that this area was not only the origin point for humans but also for many types of mammals that now live in other parts of the world. For example, our American moose, the wapiti or elk, Rocky Mountain sheep, the so-called mountain goat, and other animals likely have their roots in Central Asia.

Doubtless there were many contributing causes to the extensive wanderings of primitive tribes, but as they were primarily hunters, one of the most important - 2 - must have been the movements of the game upon which they lived. Therefore the study of the early human races is, necessarily, closely connected with, and dependent upon, a knowledge of the Central Asian mammalian life and its distribution. No systematic palæontological, archæological, or zoölogical study of this region on a large scale has ever been attempted, and there is no similar area of the inhabited surface of the earth about which so little is known.

There were definitely many reasons for the extensive migrations of early tribes, but since they were mainly hunters, one of the most significant factors was the movement of the animals they relied on for food. As a result, studying early human societies is closely linked to understanding the mammalian life in Central Asia and how it’s spread out. So far, no large-scale systematic study in paleontology, archaeology, or zoology has been done in this area, and there’s no other populated region on Earth that remains so poorly understood. - 2 -

The American Museum of Natural History hopes in the near future to conduct extensive explorations in this part of the world along general scientific lines. The country itself and its inhabitants, however, present unusual obstacles to scientific research. Not only is the region one of vast intersecting mountain ranges, the greatest of the earth, but the climate is too cold in winter to permit of continuous work. The people have a natural dislike for foreigners, and the political events of the last half century have not tended to decrease their suspicions.

The American Museum of Natural History plans to carry out extensive explorations in this area of the world along general scientific lines in the near future. However, the country and its inhabitants present unique challenges to scientific research. Not only is the region filled with vast interconnecting mountain ranges, the highest on Earth, but the winter climate is too cold for continuous work. The locals have a natural distrust of foreigners, and the political events of the last fifty years have only increased their suspicions.

It is possible to overcome such difficulties, but the plans for extensive research must be carefully prepared. One of the most important steps is the sending out of preliminary expeditions to gain a general knowledge of the natives and fauna and of the conditions to be encountered. For the first reconnaissance, which was intended to be largely a mammalian survey, the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition left New York in March, 1916.

It is possible to overcome such difficulties, but the plans for extensive research must be carefully prepared. One of the most important steps is sending out preliminary expeditions to gain a general understanding of the locals and wildlife and of the conditions to be encountered. For the first reconnaissance, which was meant to mainly focus on mammals, the Asiatic Zoological Expedition left New York in March 1916.

Its destination was Yün-nan, a province in southwestern China. This is one of the least known parts of the Chinese Republic and, because of its southern latitude and high mountain systems, the climate and faunal range is very great. It is about equal in size to - 3 - the state of California and topographically might be likened to the ocean in a furious gale, for the greater part of its surface has been thrown into vast mountain waves which divide and cross one another in hopeless confusion.

Its destination was Yunnan, a province in southwestern China. This is one of the least known areas of the Chinese Republic, and due to its southern location and high mountain ranges, the climate and variety of wildlife are quite diverse. It's about the same size as California and topographically can be compared to an ocean during a storm, as most of its landscape is made up of massive mountain waves that intersect and overlap in chaotic confusion.

Yün-nan is bordered on the north by Tibet and S'suchuan, on the west by Burma, on the south by Tonking, and on the east by Kwei-chau Province. Faunistically the entire northwestern part of Yün-nan is essentially Tibetan, and the plateaus and mountain peaks range from altitudes of 8,000 feet to 20,000 feet above sea level. In the south and west along the borders of Burma and Tonking, in the low fever-stricken valleys, the climate is that of the mid-tropics, and the native life, as well as the fauna and flora, is of a totally different type from that found in the north.

Yün-nan is bordered to the north by Tibet and S'suchuan, to the west by Burma, to the south by Tonking, and to the east by Kwei-chau Province. From a wildlife perspective, the entire northwestern part of Yün-nan is primarily Tibetan, and the plateaus and mountain peaks range from 8,000 to 20,000 feet above sea level. In the south and west, along the borders of Burma and Tonking, the low valleys, which are affected by fever, have a mid-tropical climate, and the native life, including the fauna and flora, is completely different from what you find in the north.

The natives of Yün-nan are exceptionally interesting. There are about thirty non-Chinese tribes in the province, some of whom, such as the Shans and Lolos, represent the aboriginal inhabitants of China, and it is safe to say that in no similar area of the world is there such a variety of language and dialects as in this region.

The people of Yün-nan are really fascinating. There are around thirty non-Chinese tribes in the province, some of which, like the Shans and Lolos, are the original inhabitants of China. It's fair to say that in no other area of the world is there such a wide variety of languages and dialects as in this region.

Although the main work of the Expedition was to be conducted in Yün-nan, we decided to spend a short time in Fukien Province, China, and endeavor to obtain a specimen of the so-called "blue tiger" which has been seen twice by the Reverend Harry R. Caldwell, a missionary and amateur naturalist, who has done much hunting in the vicinity of Foochow.

Although the primary work of the Expedition was set to take place in Yün-nan, we chose to spend a brief period in Fukien Province, China, and try to acquire a specimen of the so-called "blue tiger," which has been spotted twice by Reverend Harry R. Caldwell, a missionary and amateur naturalist, who has spent a lot of time hunting around Foochow.

The white members of the first Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition included Mr. Edmund Heller, my wife (Yvette Borup Andrews) and myself. A Chinese - 4 - interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, with five native assistants and ten muleteers, completed the personnel.

The white members of the first Asiatic Zoological Expedition included Mr. Edmund Heller, my wife (Yvette Borup Andrews), and me. A Chinese interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, along with five local assistants and ten muleteers, made up the rest of the team. - 4 -

Mr. Heller is a collector of wide experience. His early work, which was done in the western United States and the Galapagos Islands, was followed by many years of collecting in Mexico, Alaska, South America, and Africa. He first visited British East Africa with Mr. Carl E. Akeley, next with ex-President Theodore Roosevelt, and again with Mr. Paul J. Rainey. During the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition Mr. Heller devoted most of his time to the gathering and preparation of small mammals. He joined our party late in July in China.

Mr. Heller is a seasoned collector. His early work, done in the western U.S. and the Galapagos Islands, was followed by many years of collecting in Mexico, Alaska, South America, and Africa. He first visited British East Africa with Mr. Carl E. Akeley, then with former President Theodore Roosevelt, and again with Mr. Paul J. Rainey. During the Asiatic Zoological Expedition, Mr. Heller spent most of his time collecting and preparing small mammals. He joined our group in China at the end of July.

Mrs. Andrews was the photographer of the Expedition. She had studied photography as an amateur in Germany, France, and Italy, as well as in New York, and had devoted especial attention to the taking of photographs in natural colors. Such work requires infinite care and patience, but the results are well worth the efforts expended.

Mrs. Andrews was the photographer for the Expedition. She had studied photography as an enthusiast in Germany, France, and Italy, as well as in New York, and had focused particularly on capturing photographs in natural colors. This kind of work demands a lot of care and patience, but the results are definitely worth the effort put in.

Wu Hung-tao is a native of Foochow, China, and studied English at the Anglo-Chinese College in that city. He lived for some time in Teng-yueh, Yün-nan, in the employ of Mr. F. W. Carey, Commissioner of Customs, and not only speaks mandarin Chinese but also several native dialects. He acted as interpreter, head "boy," and general field manager. My own work was devoted mainly to the direction of the Expedition and the hunting of big game.

Wu Hung-tao is from Foochow, China, and studied English at the Anglo-Chinese College in that city. He lived for a while in Teng-yueh, Yün-nan, working for Mr. F. W. Carey, the Customs Commissioner, and he speaks Mandarin Chinese as well as several local dialects. He served as an interpreter, head assistant, and general field manager. My work focused mainly on leading the Expedition and hunting big game.

Yvette Borup Andrews with a pet Yün-nan squirrel	Edmund Heller
Roy Chapman Andrews and a Goral

- 5 -

In order to reduce the heavy transportation charges we purchased only such equipment in New York as could not be obtained in Shanghai or Hongkong. Messrs. Shoverling, Daly & Gales furnished our guns, ammunition, tents, and general camp equipment, and gave excellent satisfaction in attention to the minor details which often assume alarming importance when an expedition is in the field and defects cannot be remedied. All food and commissary supplies were purchased in Hongkong (see Chapter IX).

To cut down on high shipping costs, we only bought equipment in New York that we couldn't find in Shanghai or Hong Kong. Messrs. Shoverling, Daly & Gales provided our guns, ammunition, tents, and general camping gear, and they did a great job paying attention to the little details that can become significant when you're out on an expedition and can't fix issues. We bought all our food and supplies in Hong Kong (see Chapter IX).

When the announcement of the Expedition was made by the American Museum of Natural History it received wide publicity in America and other parts of the world. Immediately we began to discover how many strange persons make up the great cities of the United States, and we received letters and telegrams from hundreds of people who wished to take part in the Expedition. Men and boys were the principal applicants, but there was no lack of women, many of whom came to the Museum for personal interviews.

When the American Museum of Natural History announced the Expedition, it got a lot of attention in America and around the world. Right away, we started to realize how many unusual people live in the big cities of the United States, and we received letters and messages from hundreds of individuals who wanted to join the Expedition. Most of the applicants were men and boys, but there was no shortage of women, many of whom came to the Museum for personal interviews.

Most of the letters were laughable in the extreme. One was from a butcher who thought he might be of great assistance in preparing our specimens, or defending us from savage natives; another young man offered himself to my wife as a personal bodyguard; a third was sure his twenty years' experience as a waiter would fit him for an important position on the Expedition, and numerous women, young and old, wished to become "companions" for my wife in those "drear wastes."

Most of the letters were extremely amusing. One was from a butcher who thought he could greatly help in preparing our specimens or defending us from hostile natives. Another young man offered to be a personal bodyguard for my wife. A third was certain that his twenty years of experience as a waiter made him qualified for an important role on the Expedition, and many women, both young and old, expressed a desire to become "companions" for my wife in those "dreary wastelands."

Applicants continued to besiege us wherever we stopped on our way across the continent and in San Francisco until we embarked on the afternoon of Mardi 28 on the S. S. Tenyo Maru for Japan.

Applicants kept approaching us wherever we stopped on our journey across the continent and in San Francisco until we boarded the S. S. Tenyo Maru for Japan on the afternoon of Mardi 28.

Our way across the Pacific was uneventful and as the great vessel drew in toward the wharf in Yokohama she was boarded by the usual crowd of natives. We - 6 - were standing at the rail when three Japanese approached and, bowing in unison, said, "We are report for leading Japanese newspaper. We wish to know all thing about Chinese animal." Evidently the speech had been rehearsed, for with it their English ended abruptly, and the interview proceeded rather lamely, on my part, in Japanese.

Our trip across the Pacific was smooth, and as the large ship approached the dock in Yokohama, the usual crowd of locals boarded. We were standing at the rail when three Japanese men came up to us, bowing together, and said, "We are reporters for a leading Japanese newspaper. We want to know everything about the Chinese animal." It was clear that they had practiced this line, as their English stopped suddenly, and the conversation continued awkwardly on my part in Japanese.

Japan was reveling in the cherry blossom season when we arrived and for a person interested in color photography it was a veritable paradise. We stayed three weeks and regretfully left for Peking by way of Korea. But before we continue with the story of our further travels, we would like briefly to review the political situation in China as a background for our early work in the province of Fukien.

Japan was enjoying the cherry blossom season when we arrived, and for someone interested in color photography, it was a true paradise. We stayed for three weeks and reluctantly left for Peking through Korea. But before we continue with the story of our later travels, we would like to briefly review the political situation in China to provide some context for our early work in the province of Fukien.

- 7 -

CHAPTER II

CHINA IN TURMOIL

China in chaos

During the time the Expedition was preparing to leave New York, China was in turmoil. Yuan Shi-kai was president of the Republic, but the hope of his heart was to be emperor of China. For twenty years he had plotted for the throne; he had been emperor for one hundred miserable days; and now he was watching, impotently, his dream-castles crumble beneath his feet. Yuan was the strong man of his day, with more power, brains, and personality than any Chinese since Li-Hung Chang. He always had been a factor in his political world. His monarchical dream first took definite form as early as 1901 when he became viceroy of Chi-li, the province in which Peking is situated.

During the time the Expedition was getting ready to leave New York, China was in chaos. Yuan Shi-kai was the president of the Republic, but deep down, he wanted to be the emperor of China. For twenty years, he had schemed for the throne; he had been emperor for a miserable hundred days; and now he was watching, helpless, as his dreams fell apart around him. Yuan was the dominant figure of his time, with more power, intelligence, and charisma than any Chinese leader since Li-Hung Chang. He had always been a significant presence in the political landscape. His dream of monarchy began to take shape as early as 1901 when he became the viceroy of Chi-li, the province where Peking is located.

It was then that he began to modernize and get control of the army which is the great basis of political power in China. Properly speaking, there was not, and is not now, a Chinese national army. It is rather a collection of armies, each giving loyalty to a certain general, and he who secures the support of the various commanders controls the destiny of China's four hundred millions of people regardless of his official title.

It was then that he started to modernize and take control of the army, which is the foundation of political power in China. To be precise, there hasn't been, and there isn't now, a Chinese national army. It's more like a collection of armies, each pledging loyalty to a specific general, and whoever gains the support of the different commanders controls the fate of China's four hundred million people, no matter what his official title is.

Yuan was able to bind to himself the majority of the leading generals, and in 1911, when the Manchu dynasty was overthrown, his plots and intrigues began to bear fruit. By crafty juggling of the rebels and Manchus he managed to get himself elected president - 8 - of the new republic, although he did not for a moment believe in the republican form of government. He was always a monarchist at heart but was perfectly willing to declare himself an ardent republican so long as such a declaration could be used as a stepping stone to the throne which he kept ever as his ultimate goal.

Yuan managed to gain support from most of the top generals, and in 1911, when the Manchu dynasty was overthrown, his schemes started to pay off. By skillfully manipulating both the rebels and the Manchus, he succeeded in getting himself elected president - 8 - of the new republic, even though he never truly believed in republican government. Deep down, he was always a monarchist but was completely willing to call himself a passionate republican as long as it could serve as a stepping stone to the throne, which remained his ultimate goal.

As president he ruled with a high hand. In 1918 there was a rebellion in protest against his official acts but he defeated the rebels, won over more of the older generals, and solidified the army for his own interests, making himself stronger than ever before.

As president, he ruled with an iron fist. In 1918, there was a rebellion in protest of his actions, but he crushed the rebels, gained the support of more senior generals, and fortified the army for his own benefit, making himself more powerful than ever.

At this time he might well have made a coup d'état and proclaimed himself emperor with hardly a shadow of resistance, but with the hereditary caution of the Chinese he preferred to wait and plot and scheme. He wanted his position to be even more secure and to have it appear that he reluctantly accepted the throne as a patriotic duty at the insistent call of the people.

At this point, he could have easily staged a coup d'état and declared himself emperor with little opposition, but with the typical caution of the Chinese, he chose to wait, plan, and strategize. He wanted his power to be even more solid and to make it seem like he reluctantly took the throne out of a sense of patriotic duty at the people's persistent request.

Yuan's ways for producing the proper public sentiment were typically Chinese but entirely effective, and he was making splendid progress, when in May, 1915, Japan put a spoke in his wheel of fortune by taking advantage of the European war and presenting the historical twenty-one demands, to most of which China agreed.

Yuan's methods for creating the right public sentiment were very much in line with Chinese traditions but highly effective, and he was making great strides when, in May 1915, Japan interfered with his plans by exploiting the European war and presenting the infamous twenty-one demands, most of which China accepted.

This delayed his plans only temporarily, and Yuan's agents pushed the work of making him emperor more actively than ever, with the result that the throne was tendered to him by the "unanimous vote of the people." To "save his face" he declined at first but at the second offer he "reluctantly" yielded and on December 12, 1916, became emperor of China.

This only temporarily delayed his plans, and Yuan's agents worked harder than ever to make him emperor, leading to the throne being offered to him by the "unanimous vote of the people." To "save his face," he turned it down at first, but when they offered it a second time, he "reluctantly" accepted and became emperor of China on December 12, 1916.

But his triumph was short-lived, for eight days later - 9 - tidings of unrest in Yün-nan reached Peking. General Tsai-ao, a former military governor of the province, appeared in Yün-nan Fu, the capital, and, on December 28, sent an ultimatum to Yuan stating that he must repudiate the monarchy and execute all those who had assisted him to gain the throne, otherwise Yün-nan would secede; which it forthwith did on December 25.

But his victory was short-lived, as just eight days later, - 9 - news of unrest in Yün-nan reached Peking. General Tsai-ao, a former military governor of the province, showed up in Yün-nan Fu, the capital, and on December 28, sent a warning to Yuan stating that he needed to renounce the monarchy and execute everyone who helped him seize the throne, or else Yün-nan would break away; which it went ahead and did on December 25.

Without doubt this rebellion was financed by the Japanese who had intimated to Yuan that the change from a republican form of government would not meet with their approval The rebellion spread rapidly. On January 21, Kwei-chau Province, which adjoins Yün-nan, seceded, and, on March 18, Kwang-si also announced its independence.

Without a doubt, this rebellion was funded by the Japanese, who had hinted to Yuan that moving away from a republican form of government would not be acceptable to them. The rebellion spread quickly. On January 21, Kwei-chau Province, which borders Yün-nan, seceded, and on March 18, Kwang-si also declared its independence.

About this time the Museum authorities were becoming somewhat doubtful as to the advisability of proceeding with our Expedition. We had a long talk with Dr. Wellington Koo, the Chinese Minister to the United States, at the Biltmore Hotel in New York. Dr. Koo, while certain that the rebellion would be short-lived, strongly advised us to postpone our expedition until conditions became more settled. He offered to cable Peking for advice, but we, knowing how unwelcome to the government of the harassed Yuan would be a party of foreigners who wished to travel in the disturbed area, gratefully declined and determined to proceed regardless of conditions. We hoped that Yuan would be strong enough to crush this rebellion as he had that of 1918, but day by day, as we anxiously watched the papers, there came reports of other provinces dropping away from his standard.

About this time, the Museum officials were starting to have doubts about whether we should go ahead with our Expedition. We had a long conversation with Dr. Wellington Koo, the Chinese Minister to the United States, at the Biltmore Hotel in New York. Dr. Koo, while confident that the rebellion would be short-lived, strongly advised us to delay our expedition until things settled down. He offered to send a telegram to Peking for guidance, but we, knowing how unwelcome a group of foreigners would be to the stressed Yuan government in such a chaotic situation, gratefully declined and decided to move forward regardless of the circumstances. We hoped that Yuan would be strong enough to suppress this rebellion like he had in 1918, but day by day, as we anxiously followed the news, reports came in about other provinces drifting away from his control.

On the Tenyo Maru we met the Honorable Charles Denby, an ex-American Consul-General at Shanghai - 10 - and former adviser to Yuan Shi-kai when he was viceroy of Chi-li. Mr. Denby was interested in obtaining a road concession near Peking and was then on his way to see Yuan. His anxiety over the political situation was not less than ours and together we often paced the decks discussing what might happen; but every wireless report told of more desertions to the ranks of the rebels.

On the Tenyo Maru, we met the Honorable Charles Denby, a former American Consul-General in Shanghai and past adviser to Yuan Shi-kai when he was the viceroy of Chi-li. Mr. Denby was looking to secure a road concession near Peking and was heading to see Yuan. His concern about the political situation was just as strong as ours, and we often walked the decks together, discussing what might unfold; but every wireless report indicated more defections to the rebel forces. - 10 -

It seemed to be the beginning of the end, for Yuan had lost his nerve. He had decided to quit, and one hundred days after he became emperor elect he issued a mandate canceling the monarchy and restoring the republic. But the rebellious provinces were not satisfied and demanded that he get out altogether.

It looked like the beginning of the end, as Yuan had lost his confidence. He made the decision to step down, and one hundred days after becoming the elected emperor, he issued a mandate to abolish the monarchy and bring back the republic. However, the rebellious provinces weren't happy and insisted that he leave entirely.

About this time we reached Peking, literally blown in by a tremendous dust storm which seemed an elemental manifestation of the human turmoil within the grim old walls. Our cousin, Commander Thomas Hutchins, Naval Attaché of the American Legation, was awaiting us on the platform, holding his hat with one hand and wiping the dust from his eyes with the other.

About this time, we arrived in Beijing, practically swept in by a massive dust storm that felt like a raw expression of the human chaos inside the grim old walls. Our cousin, Commander Thomas Hutchins, Naval Attaché of the American Legation, was waiting for us on the platform, holding his hat in one hand and wiping dust from his eyes with the other.

The news we received from him was by no means comforting for in the Legation pessimism reigned supreme. The American Minister, Dr. Reinsch, was not enthusiastic about our going south regardless of conditions, but nevertheless he set about helping us to obtain the necessary visé for our passports.

The news we got from him was far from comforting, as pessimism was everywhere at the Legation. The American Minister, Dr. Reinsch, wasn’t excited about us heading south no matter the circumstances, but he still started helping us get the necessary visa for our passports.

We wished first to go to Foochow, in Fukien Province, where we were to hunt tiger until Mr. Heller joined us in July for the expedition into Yün-nan. Fukien was still loyal to Yuan, but the strong Japanese influence in this province, which is directly opposite the - 11 - island of Formosa, was causing considerable uneasiness in Peking.

We initially planned to head to Foochow in Fukien Province, where we would go tiger hunting until Mr. Heller met up with us in July for the trip to Yün-nan. Fukien was still loyal to Yuan, but the significant Japanese presence in this province, which is directly across from the island of Formosa, was creating a lot of anxiety in Peking.

We were armed with telegrams from Mr. C. R. Kellogg, of the Anglo-Chinese College, with whom we were to stay while in Foochow, assuring us that all was quiet in the province, and through the influence of Dr. Reinsch, the Chinese Foreign Office viséd our passports. The huge red stamp which was affixed to them was an amusing example of Chinese "face saving." First came the seal of Yuan's impotent dynasty of Hung-Hsien, signifying "Brilliant Prosperity," and directly upon it was placed the stamp of the Chinese Republic. One was almost as legible as the other and thus the Foreign Office saved its face in whichever direction the shifting cards of political destiny should fall.

We had telegrams from Mr. C. R. Kellogg at the Anglo-Chinese College, where we were going to stay while in Foochow, assuring us that everything was calm in the province. Thanks to Dr. Reinsch's influence, the Chinese Foreign Office approved our passports. The big red stamp they put on them was a pretty funny example of Chinese "face-saving." First was the seal of Yuan's weak dynasty of Hung-Hsien, which stood for "Brilliant Prosperity," and right on top of it was the stamp of the Chinese Republic. Both stamps were almost equally clear, allowing the Foreign Office to save face no matter which way the ever-changing political situation turned.

At a luncheon given by Dr. Reinsch at the Embassy in Peking, we met Admiral von Hintze, the German Minister, who had recently completed an adventurous trip from Germany to China. He was Minister to Mexico at the beginning of the war but had returned to Berlin incognito through England to ask the Kaiser for active sea service. The Emperor was greatly elated over von Hintze's performance and offered him the appointment of Minister to China if he could reach Peking in the same way that he had traveled to Berlin. Von Hintze therefore shipped as supercargo on a Scandinavian tramp steamer and arrived safely at Shanghai, where he assumed all the pomp of a foreign diplomat and proceeded to the capital.

At a lunch hosted by Dr. Reinsch at the Embassy in Beijing, we met Admiral von Hintze, the German Minister, who had just completed an adventurous journey from Germany to China. He had been the Minister to Mexico at the start of the war but had returned to Berlin secretly through England to ask the Kaiser for active sea service. The Emperor was thrilled with von Hintze's exploits and offered him the position of Minister to China if he could get to Beijing the same way he traveled to Berlin. So, von Hintze boarded a Scandinavian cargo ship and arrived safely in Shanghai, where he embraced all the formalities of a foreign diplomat and made his way to the capital.

The Americans were in a rather difficult position at this time because of the international complications, and social intercourse was extremely limited. Dinner guests had to be chosen with the greatest care and one - 12 - was very likely to meet exactly the same people wherever one went.

The Americans were in a tough spot at this time due to international issues, and social interactions were very limited. When hosting dinner guests, one had to be very careful in their choices, and it was quite likely to run into the same people no matter where you went. - 12 -

Peking is a place never to be forgotten by one who has shared its social life. In the midst of one of the most picturesque, most historical, and most romantic cities of the world there is a cosmopolitan community that enjoys itself to the utmost. Its talk is all of horses, polo, racing, shooting, dinners, and dances, with the interesting background of Chinese politics, in which things are never dull. There is always a rebellion of some kind to furnish delightful thrills, and one never can tell when a new political bomb will be projected from the mysterious gates of the Forbidden City.

Peking is a place that you can never forget if you've experienced its social life. In the heart of one of the most beautiful, historic, and romantic cities in the world, there's a diverse community that knows how to have a great time. The conversations here revolve around horses, polo, racing, shooting, dinners, and dances, all set against the fascinating backdrop of Chinese politics, where things are always lively. There's always some kind of rebellion to add excitement, and you never know when a new political surprise will emerge from the mysterious gates of the Forbidden City.

We spent a week in Peking and regretfully left by rail for Shanghai. En route we passed through Tsinan-fu where the previous night serious fighting had occurred in which Japanese soldiers had joined with the rebels against Yuan's troops. On every side there was evidence of Japan's efforts against him. In the foreign quarter of Shanghai just behind the residence of Mr. Sammons, the American Consul-General, one of Yuan's leading officers had been openly murdered, and Japanese were directly concerned in the plot. We were told that it was very difficult at that time to lease houses in the foreign concession because wealthy Chinese who feared the wrath of one party or the other were eager to pay almost any rent to obtain the protection of that quarter of the city.

We spent a week in Beijing and reluctantly left by train for Shanghai. On the way, we passed through Jinan, where the night before there had been serious fighting involving Japanese soldiers teaming up with the rebels against Yuan's troops. Everywhere, there were signs of Japan's efforts against him. In the foreign district of Shanghai, right behind the home of Mr. Sammons, the American Consul-General, one of Yuan's top officers was openly murdered, with the Japanese directly involved in the plot. We were informed that it was quite difficult at that time to rent houses in the foreign concession because wealthy Chinese, fearing backlash from either side, were willing to pay almost any price to secure protection in that part of the city.

A short time later it became known to a few that Yuan was seriously ill. He was suffering from Bright's disease with its consequent weakness, loss of mental alertness, and lack of concentration. French doctors were called in, but Yuan's wives insisted upon treating - 13 - him with concoctions of their own, and on June 6, shortly after three o'clock in the morning, he died.

A little while later, it became known to a few that Yuan was seriously ill. He was suffering from Bright's disease, which caused weakness, loss of mental sharpness, and trouble concentrating. French doctors were brought in, but Yuan's wives insisted on treating him with their own remedies, and on June 6, shortly after three o'clock in the morning, he passed away. - 13 -

Even on his death-bed Yuan endeavored to save his face before the country, and his last words were a reiteration of what he knew no one believed. The story of his death is told in the China Press of June 7, 1916:

Even on his deathbed, Yuan tried to protect his reputation in front of the country, and his last words were a repetition of something he knew nobody believed. The story of his death is told in the China Press of June 7, 1916:

According to news from the President's palace the condition of Yuan became critical at three o'clock in the morning. Yuan asked for his old confidential friend, Hsu Shih-chang, who came immediately. On the arrival of Hsu, Yuan was extremely weak, but entirely conscious.

According to news from the President's palace, Yuan's condition became critical at three o'clock in the morning. Yuan requested his longtime close friend, Hsu Shih-chang, who came right away. When Hsu arrived, Yuan was very weak but fully aware.

With tears in his eyes, Yuan assured his old friend that he had never had any personal ambition for an emperor's crown; he had been deceived by his entourage over the true state of public opinion and thus had sincerely believed the people wished for the restoration of the monarchy. The desire of the South for his resignation he had not wished to follow for fear that general anarchy would break out all over China. Now that he felt death approaching he asked Hsu to make his last words known to the public.

With tears in his eyes, Yuan assured his old friend that he never wanted to be emperor; he had been misled by his entourage about how the public really felt and genuinely believed that the people wanted the monarchy restored. He didn’t want to follow the South's desire for his resignation because he feared it would lead to chaos across China. Now that he sensed death was near, he asked Hsu to share his last words with the public.

In the temporary residence of President Li Yuan-hung, situated it, the Yung-chan-hu-tung (East City) and formerly owned by Yang Tu, the prominent monarchist, the formal transfer of the power to Li Yuan-hung took place this morning at ten o'clock. Yuan Chi-jui, Secretary of State and Premier, as well as all the members of the cabinet. Prince Pu Lun as chairman of the State Council, and other high officials were present.

In the temporary home of President Li Yuan-hung, located in Yung-chan-hu-tung (East City) and previously owned by the well-known monarchist Yang Tu, the official transfer of power to Li Yuan-hung happened this morning at ten o'clock. Yuan Chi-jui, the Secretary of State and Premier, along with all cabinet members, Prince Pu Lun as chairman of the State Council, and other high-ranking officials were present.

The officials, wearing ceremonial dress, were received by Li-Yuan-hung in the main hall and made three bows to the new president, which were returned by the latter. The same ceremony will take place at two o'clock, when all the high military officials will assemble at the President's residence.

The officials, dressed in ceremonial attire, were welcomed by Li-Yuan-hung in the main hall and performed three bows to the new president, who returned the gesture. The same ceremony will happen at two o'clock, when all the high-ranking military officials will gather at the President's residence.

The Cabinet, in a circular telegram has informed all the - 14 - provinces that Vice-President Li-Yuan-hung, in accordance with the constitution, has become president of the Chinese Republic (Chung-hua-min-kuo) from the seventh instance.

The Cabinet has announced in a circular telegram that Vice-President Li Yuan-hung has taken office as the president of the Chinese Republic (Zhonghua Minguo) starting from the seventh instance, in line with the constitution. - 14 -

So ended Yuan Shi-kai's great plot to make himself an emperor over four hundred millions of people, a plot which could only have been carried out in China. He failed, and the once valiant warrior died in the humiliation of defeat, leaving thirty-two wives, forty children and his country in political chaos.

So ended Yuan Shi-kai's ambitious plan to make himself an emperor over four hundred million people, a scheme that could only happen in China. He failed, and the once brave warrior died in the shame of defeat, leaving behind thirty-two wives, forty children, and his country in political turmoil.

- 15 -

CHAPTER III

UP THE MIN RIVER

Y. B. A.

Y.B.A.

Three days after leaving Shanghai we arrived at Pagoda Anchorage at the mouth of the Min River, twelve miles from Foochow.

Three days after leaving Shanghai, we got to Pagoda Anchorage at the mouth of the Min River, twelve miles from Foochow.

We boarded a launch which threaded its way through a fleet of picturesque fishing vessels, each one of which had a round black and white eye painted on its crescent-shaped bow. When asked the reason for this decoration a Chinese on the launch looked at us rather pityingly for a moment and then said: "No have eye. No can see." How simple and how entirely satisfactory!

We got on a small boat that navigated through a fleet of charming fishing vessels, each decorated with a round black and white eye painted on its crescent-shaped bow. When asked why they had this decoration, a Chinese man on the boat looked at us with a bit of pity for a moment and then said, "No eye. No can see." How simple and completely satisfying!

The instant the launch touched the shore dozens of coolies swarmed like flies over it, fighting madly for our luggage. One seized a trunk, the other end of which had been appropriated by another man and, in the argument which ensued, each endeavored to deafen the other by his screams. The habit of yelling to enforce command is inherent with the Chinese and appears to be ineradicable. To expostulate in an ordinary tone of voice, pausing to listen to his opponent's reply, seems a psychological impossibility.

The moment the boat reached the shore, dozens of laborers rushed at it like flies, scrambling fiercely for our luggage. One grabbed a trunk, while another man had claimed the other end, and a loud argument broke out as they each tried to out-scream the other. The tendency to shout to assert authority is built into Chinese culture and seems impossible to change. Arguing calmly, taking a pause to hear the other person's side, seems completely out of the question.

There had been a mistake about the date of our arrival at Foochow, and we were two days earlier than we had been expected, so that Mr. C. R. Kellogg, of the Anglo-Chinese College, with whom we were to - 16 - stay, was not on the jetty to meet us. We were at a loss to know where to turn amidst the chaos and confusion until a customs officer took us in charge and, judiciously selecting a competent looking woman from among the screaming multitude, told her to get two sedan chairs and coolies to carry our luggage. She disappeared and ten minutes later the chairs arrived. Dashing about among the crowd in front of us, she chose the baggage for such men as met with her approval and after the usual amount of argument the loads were taken.

There was a mistake about our arrival date in Foochow, and we showed up two days earlier than expected, which meant Mr. C. R. Kellogg from the Anglo-Chinese College—who was supposed to host us—wasn't at the jetty to greet us. We were confused and didn't know what to do amidst the chaos until a customs officer stepped in. He wisely picked out a competent-looking woman from the shouting crowd and asked her to get two sedan chairs and coolies to carry our luggage. She quickly left and ten minutes later, the chairs showed up. Navigating through the crowd in front of us, she selected the bags from the men she approved of, and after some usual arguing, the loads were taken.

We mounted our chairs and started off with apparently all Foochow following us. As far as we could see down the narrow street were the heads and shoulders of our porters. We felt as if we were heading an invading army as, with our thirty-three coolies and sixteen hundred pounds of luggage, we descended upon the homes of people whom we did not know and who were not expecting us. But our sudden arrival did not disturb the Kelloggs and our welcome was typical of the warm hospitality one always finds in the Far East.

We got on our chairs and set off, seemingly with all of Foochow following us. As far as we could see down the narrow street, there were the heads and shoulders of our porters. It felt like we were leading an invading army with our thirty-three coolies and sixteen hundred pounds of luggage as we approached the homes of strangers who weren’t expecting us. However, our unexpected arrival didn’t upset the Kelloggs, and our welcome was just like the warm hospitality you always find in the Far East.

No matter how long one has lived in China one remains in a condition of mental suspense unable to decide which is the filthiest city of the Republic. The residents of Foochow boast that for offensiveness to the senses no town can compare with theirs, and although Amoy and several other places dispute this questionable title, we were inclined to grant it unreservedly to Foochow. It is like a medieval city with its narrow, ill-paved streets wandering aimlessly in a hopeless maze. They are usually roofed over so that by no accident can a ray of purifying sun penetrate their dark comers. With no ventilation whatsoever the oppressive air reeks - 17 - with the odors that rise from the streets and the steaming houses.

No matter how long someone has lived in China, they still find themselves unsure about which city is the dirtiest in the Republic. The locals in Foochow proudly claim that no town can match theirs for foulness, and even though Amoy and a few other places contest this dubious title, we were inclined to give it without reservation to Foochow. It resembles a medieval city with its narrow, poorly paved streets meandering aimlessly in a confusing labyrinth. These streets are usually covered, ensuring that not even a single ray of cleansing sunlight can reach their dark corners. With no ventilation whatsoever, the stifling air is filled with the smells that rise from the streets and the steaming houses. - 17 -

In Foochow, as in other cities of China, the narrow alleys are literally choked with every form of industrial obstruction. Countless workmen plant themselves in the tiny passageways with the pigs, children, and dogs, and women bring their quilts to spread upon the stones. There is a common saying that the Chinese do little which is not at some time done on the street.

In Foochow, like in other cities in China, the narrow alleys are completely filled with various industrial blockages. Numerous workers crowd into the small passageways alongside pigs, children, and dogs, while women bring their quilts to lay on the ground. There’s a popular saying that the Chinese do very little that isn’t done on the street at some point.

The foreign residents, including consuls of all nationalities, missionaries, and merchants, live well out of the city on a hilltop. Their houses are built with very high ceilings and bare interiors, and as the occupants seldom go into the city except in a sedan chair and have "punkahs" waving day and night, life is made possible during the intense heat of summer.

The foreign residents, including consuls from various countries, missionaries, and merchants, live comfortably on a hilltop outside the city. Their houses have very high ceilings and simple interiors, and since the residents rarely venture into the city except in a sedan chair and have "punkahs" blowing day and night, life becomes bearable during the scorching summer heat.

A telegram was awaiting us from the Reverend Harry Caldwell, with whom we were to hunt, asking us to come to his station two hundred miles up the river, and we passed two sweltering days repacking our outfit while Mr. Kellogg scoured the country for an English-speaking cook.

A telegram was waiting for us from Reverend Harry Caldwell, with whom we were going to hunt, asking us to come to his station two hundred miles up the river. We spent two hot days repacking our gear while Mr. Kellogg searched the area for an English-speaking cook.

One middle-aged gentleman presented himself, but when he learned that we were going "up country," he shook his head with an assumption of great filial devotion and said that he did not think his mother would let him go. Another was afraid the sun might be too hot. Finally on the eve of our departure we engaged a stuttering Chinese who assured us that he was a remarkable cook and exceptionally honest

One middle-aged man showed up, but when he found out we were going "up country," he shook his head with a show of deep loyalty to his mother and said that he didn’t think she would allow him to go. Another was worried that the sun might be too hot. Finally, on the night before we left, we hired a stuttering Chinese guy who promised us that he was an amazing cook and very trustworthy.

If you have never heard a Chinaman stutter you have something to live for, and although we discovered that our cook was a shameless rascal he was worth all - 18 - he extracted in "squeeze," for whenever he attempted to utter a word we became almost hysterical. He sounded exactly like a worn-out phonograph record buzzing on a single note, and when he finally did manage to articulate, his "pidgin" English in itself was screamingly funny.

If you've never heard a Chinese man stutter, you have something to look forward to. Even though we found out that our cook was a total fraud, he was worth every penny he got from us, because every time he tried to say something, we nearly lost it with laughter. He sounded just like a broken record playing the same note over and over, and when he finally managed to speak, his attempts at English were hilariously funny. - 18 -

One day he came to the sampan proudly displaying a piece of beef and, after a series of vocal gymnastics, eventually succeeded in shouting: "Missie, this meat no belong die-cow. Die-cow not so handsome." Which meant that this particular piece of beef was not from an animal which had died from disease.

One day he arrived at the sampan proudly showing off a piece of beef and, after a lot of vocal effort, finally managed to shout: "Missie, this meat doesn't come from a sick cow. Sick cows aren’t that good-looking." This meant that this specific piece of beef was from an animal that hadn't died from illness.

The first stage of our trip began before daylight. We rode in four-man sedan chairs, followed by a long procession of heavily laden coolies with our cameras, duffle-sacks, and pack baskets. The road lay through green rice fields between terraced mountains, and we jogged along first on the crest of a hill, then in the valley, passing dilapidated temples with the paint flaking off and picturesque little huts half hidden in the reeds of the winding river. It was a relief to get into the country again after passing down the narrow village streets and to breathe fresh air perfumed with honeysuckle.

The first stage of our trip started before dawn. We traveled in four-person sedan chairs, followed by a long line of heavily loaded porters carrying our cameras, duffle bags, and pack baskets. The road wound through green rice fields between terraced mountains, and we jogged along first on the top of a hill, then in the valley, passing crumbling temples with peeling paint and charming little huts partially hidden in the reeds by the winding river. It felt great to be back in the countryside after navigating the narrow village streets and to breathe in fresh air scented with honeysuckle.

A passenger launch makes the trip to Cui-kau at the beginning of the rapids, but it leaves at two o'clock in the morning and is literally crowded to overflowing with evil-smelling Chinese who sprawl over every available inch of deck space, so that even the missionaries strongly advised us against taking it. The passengers not infrequently are pushed off into the water. One of the missionaries witnessed an incident which illustrates - 19 - in a typical way the total lack of sympathy of the average Chinese.

A passenger boat goes to Cui-kau at the start of the rapids, but it leaves at two in the morning and is packed to the brim with foul-smelling Chinese people who take up every bit of deck space, so even the missionaries strongly advised us not to take it. Passengers are often pushed off into the water. One of the missionaries saw an incident that perfectly shows the total lack of empathy from the average Chinese person. 19

A coolie on the Cui-kau launch accidentally fell overboard, and although a friend was able to grasp his hand and hold him above the surface, no one offered to help him; the launch continued at full speed, and finally weakening, the poor man loosed his hold and sank. This is by no means an isolated case. Some years ago a foreign steamer was burned on the Yangtze River, and the crowds of watching Chinese did little or nothing to rescue the passengers and crew. Indeed, as fast as they made their way to shore many of them were robbed even of their clothing and some were murdered outright.

A coolie on the Cui-kau launch accidentally fell overboard, and even though a friend managed to grab his hand and keep him afloat, no one else offered to help him; the launch kept going at full speed, and eventually, the poor man lost his grip and sank. This is far from an isolated incident. A few years ago, a foreign ship caught fire on the Yangtze River, and the crowds of Chinese watching did almost nothing to save the passengers and crew. In fact, as they raced to shore, many of them were robbed of their clothes, and some were even killed outright.

Our first day on the Min River was the most luxurious of the entire Expedition, for we were fortunate in obtaining the Standard Oil Company's launch through the kindness of Mr. Livingstone, their agent. It was large and roomy, and the trip, which would have been worse than disagreeable on the public boat, was most delightful. The Min is one of the most beautiful rivers of all China with its velvet green mountains rising a thousand feet or more straight up from the water and often terraced to the summits.

Our first day on the Min River was the most luxurious of the entire Expedition because we were lucky to get the Standard Oil Company's launch thanks to Mr. Livingstone, their agent. It was spacious and comfortable, and the journey, which would have been extremely unpleasant on the public boat, turned out to be a real pleasure. The Min is one of the most beautiful rivers in all of China, with its lush green mountains rising a thousand feet or more straight up from the water, often terraced all the way to the top.

Perched on the bow of our boat was a wizened little gentleman with a pigtail wrapped around his head, who said he was a pilot, but as he inquired the channel of everyone who passed and ran us aground a dozen times or more to the tremendous agitation of our captain, we felt that his claim was not entirely justified.

Perched on the front of our boat was a wise old man with a pigtail wrapped around his head, who said he was a pilot. However, since he asked everyone who passed about the channel and grounded us a dozen times or more, much to our captain's frustration, we felt his claim wasn't entirely valid.

The river life was a fascinating, ever-changing picture. One moment we would pass a sampan so loaded with branches that it seemed like a small island floating - 20 - down the stream. Next a huge junk with bamboo-ribbed sails projecting at impossible angles drifted by, followed by innumerable smaller crafts, the monotonous chant of the boatmen coming faintly over the water to us as they passed.

The river life was a captivating, constantly shifting scene. One moment we would see a sampan so piled high with branches that it looked like a little island floating down the stream. Then a massive junk with bamboo sails sticking out at odd angles would float by, followed by countless smaller boats, the repetitive chanting of the boatmen faintly reaching us over the water as they went past. - 20 -

When evening came we had reached Cui-kau. The sampans in which we were to spend eight days were drawn up on the beach with twenty or thirty others. Right above us was the straggling town looking very much like the rear view of tenement houses at home. Darkness blotted out the filth of our surroundings but could do nothing to lessen the odors that poured down from the village, and we ate our dinner with little relish.

When night fell, we arrived at Cui-kau. The sampans where we would spend the next eight days were lined up on the beach alongside twenty or thirty others. Above us was the scattered town, resembling the back view of tenement buildings back home. Darkness covered up the dirt around us, but it couldn't hide the smells wafting down from the village, and we ate our dinner with little enjoyment.

Our beds were spread in the sampans which we shared in common with the four river men who formed the crew. There was only a mosquito net to screen the end of the boat, but all our surroundings were so strange that this was but a minor detail. As we lay in our cots we could look up at the stars framed in the half oval of the sampan's roof and listen to the sounds of the water life grow fainter and fainter as one by one the river men beached their boats for the night. It seemed only a few minutes later when we were roused by a rush of water, but it was daylight, and the boats had reached the first of the rapids which separated us from Yen-ping, one hundred and twenty miles away.

Our beds were set up in the sampans that we shared with the four river men on the crew. There was just a mosquito net to cover the end of the boat, but everything around us was so unusual that this felt like a minor detail. As we lay in our cots, we could gaze up at the stars framed by the half oval of the sampan's roof and listen to the sounds of the water life fading away as the river men steadily beached their boats for the night. It felt like just a few minutes later when we were jolted awake by a rush of water, but it was morning, and the boats had reached the first of the rapids that separated us from Yen-ping, one hundred and twenty miles away.

In the late afternoon we arrived at Chang-hu-fan where Mr. Caldwell stood on the shore waving his hat to us amidst scores of dirty little children and the explosion of countless firecrackers. Wherever we went crackers preceded and followed us—for when a Chinese wishes to register extreme emotion, either of joy or sorrow, - 21 - its expression always takes the form of firecrackers.

In the late afternoon, we arrived at Chang-hu-fan where Mr. Caldwell stood on the shore waving his hat at us among a crowd of dirty little kids and the sound of countless firecrackers. Everywhere we went, firecrackers accompanied us—since when a Chinese person wants to express strong emotions, whether it’s joy or sadness, it’s always done with firecrackers. 21

There had been a good deal of persecution of the native Christians in the district, and only recently a band of soldiers had strung up the native pastor by the thumbs and beaten him senseless. He was our host that night and seemed to be a bright, vivacious, little man but quite deaf as a result of his cruel treatment. He never recovered and died a few weeks later. Mr. Caldwell had come to investigate the affair, for the missionaries are invested by the people themselves with a good deal of authority.

There had been a lot of persecution against the local Christians in the area, and just recently, a group of soldiers had hung the local pastor by his thumbs and beat him until he was unconscious. He was our host that night and seemed to be a lively, cheerful little man, but he was completely deaf from his brutal treatment. He never recovered and passed away a few weeks later. Mr. Caldwell had come to look into the situation because the missionaries were given a fair amount of authority by the people themselves.

We spent that night in the parish house just behind the little church, a bare schoolroom being turned over to us for our use, and it seemed very luxurious after we had set up our cots, tables, chairs, and bath tub; but the house was in the center of the town and the high walls shut out every breath of pure air. The barred windows opened on a street hardly six feet wide, and while we were preparing for bed there was a buzz of subdued whispers outside. We switched on a powerful electric flashlight and there stood at least forty men, women and children gazing at us with rapt attention, but they melted away before the blinding glare like snow in a June sun.

We spent that night in the parish house just behind the little church, a simple schoolroom that was set up for us, and it felt pretty luxurious after we arranged our cots, tables, chairs, and bathtub; but the house was in the town center, and the tall walls blocked out any fresh air. The barred windows opened onto a street that was barely six feet wide, and while we were getting ready for bed, we could hear a low buzz of whispers outside. We turned on a powerful flashlight, and there were at least forty men, women, and children staring at us with rapt attention, but they quickly vanished before the blinding light like snow in the June sun.

That night was not a pleasant one. The heat was intense, the mosquitoes worse, and every dog and cat in the village seemed to choose our court yard as a dueling ground in which to settle old scores. The climax was reached at four o'clock in the morning, when directly under our windows there came a series of ear-splitting squeals followed by a horrible gurgle. The neighbors had chosen that particular spot and how to - 22 - kill the family pig, and the entire process which followed of sousing it in hot water and scraping off the hair was accompanied by unceasing chatter. Boiling with rage we dressed and went for a walk, vowing not to spend another night in the place but to sleep in the sampans.

That night was unbearable. The heat was brutal, the mosquitoes were worse, and every dog and cat in the village seemed to pick our courtyard as a battleground to settle old scores. The peak of the chaos happened at four in the morning when we heard a series of deafening squeals right under our windows, followed by a horrible gurgling sound. The neighbors had picked that exact spot to slaughter the family pig, and the whole process of dunking it in hot water and scraping off the hair was nonstop chatter. Fuming with anger, we got dressed and went for a walk, swearing we wouldn't spend another night there and would instead sleep in the sampans.

On the whole our river men were nice fellows but they had the love of companionship characteristic of all Chinese and the inherent desire to huddle together as closely as possible wherever they were. On the way up the river to Yuchi every evening they insisted on stopping at some foul-smelling village, and it was difficult to induce them to spend the night away from a town. Moreover, at our stops for luncheon they would invariably ignore a shady spot and choose a sand bank where the sun beat down like a blast furnace.

Overall, our river crew were great guys, but they had a strong sense of camaraderie typical of all Chinese people and a natural urge to gather as close as possible wherever they were. Every evening on the way up the river to Yuchi, they insisted on stopping at some stinky village, and it was hard to convince them to spend the night away from a town. Plus, during our lunch breaks, they would always skip the shady spots and choose a sandbank where the sun blazed down like a furnace.

The Chinese never appear to be affected by the sun and go bareheaded at all seasons of the year, shading their eyes with one hand or a partly opened fan. A fan is the prime requisite, and it is not uncommon to see coolies almost devoid of clothing, dragging a heavy load and with the perspiration streaming from their naked bodies, energetically fanning themselves meanwhile.

The Chinese never seem to be bothered by the sun and go bareheaded all year round, shading their eyes with one hand or a partially opened fan. A fan is essential, and it's not unusual to see laborers almost lacking clothing, dragging a heavy load while sweat streams down their bare bodies, energetically fanning themselves at the same time.

Mr. Caldwell was en route to Yuchi, one of his mission stations far up a branch of the Min River, and as there was a vague report of tiger in that vicinity we joined him instead of proceeding directly to Yen-ping. The tiger story was found to be merely a myth, but our trip was made interesting by meeting Miss Mabel Hartford, the only foreign resident of the place. She has lived in Yuchi for two years and at one time did not see a white person for eight months with the - 23 - exception of Mr. Caldwell who was in the vicinity for three days. It requires four weeks to obtain supplies from Foochow, there is no telegraph, and mails are very irregular, but she enjoys the isolation and is passionately fond of her work.

Mr. Caldwell was on his way to Yuchi, one of his mission stations located up a branch of the Min River, and since there was a vague report of a tiger in that area, we decided to join him instead of heading straight to Yen-ping. The tiger story turned out to be just a myth, but our trip became interesting when we met Miss Mabel Hartford, the only foreign resident there. She has been living in Yuchi for two years and at one point didn't see another white person for eight months, except for Mr. Caldwell, who was nearby for three days. It takes four weeks to get supplies from Foochow, there’s no telegraph, and the mail service is very irregular, but she enjoys the solitude and is deeply passionate about her work.

She has had an interesting life and one not devoid of danger. In 1895 she was wounded and barely escaped death in the Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain) massacre in which ten women and one man were brutally murdered by a mob of fanatic natives known as "Vegetarians." The Chinese Government was required to pay a considerable indemnity to Miss Hartford, which she accepted only under protest and characteristically devoted to missionary work in Kucheng where the massacre occurred.

She has led an interesting life, and it hasn’t been without danger. In 1895, she was injured and narrowly escaped death during the Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain) massacre, where a mob of fanatical locals known as "Vegetarians" brutally killed ten women and one man. The Chinese Government had to pay a significant compensation to Miss Hartford, which she accepted only reluctantly and characteristically dedicated to missionary work in Kucheng, where the massacre took place.

Conditions at Yuchi when we arrived were most unsettled and for some months there had been a veritable "reign of terror." A large band of brigands was established in the hills not far from the city, and we were warned by the mandarin not to attempt to go farther up the river. A few months earlier several companies of soldiers had been sent from Foochow, and the result of turning loose these ruffians upon the town was to make "the remedy worse than the disease."

Conditions at Yuchi when we arrived were very unstable, and for several months there had been a real "reign of terror." A large group of bandits had taken up residence in the hills not far from the city, and we were advised by the mandarin not to try to go any further up the river. A few months earlier, several companies of soldiers had been sent from Foochow, but allowing these thugs to run rampant in the town made "the remedy worse than the disease."

The soldiers were continually arresting innocent peasants, accusing them of being brigands or aiding the bandits, and shooting them without a hearing. At one time accurate information concerning the camp of the robbers was received and the soldiers set bravely off, but when within a short distance of the brigands the commanders began to quarrel among themselves, guns were fired, and the bandits escaped. A Chinaman must always "save his face," however, and when they returned - 24 - to Yuchi they arrested dozens of people on mere suspicion and executed them without the vestige of a trial. Finally conditions became so intolerable that no one was safe, and after repeated complaints by the missionaries, a new mandarin of a somewhat better type was sent to Yuchi.

The soldiers kept arresting innocent peasants, accusing them of being bandits or helping the outlaws, and shooting them without any trial. At one point, they got reliable information about the bandits' camp and bravely set out, but when they got close, the commanders started arguing, shots were fired, and the bandits got away. A Chinese person always has to "save face," so when they returned to Yuchi, they arrested dozens of people just on suspicion and executed them without any kind of trial. Eventually, the situation became so unbearable that no one felt safe, and after the missionaries complained multiple times, a new mandarin, who was somewhat better, was sent to Yuchi. 24

As it was impossible to do any collecting farther up the river because of the bandits, we left for Yen-ping two days after arriving at Yuchi. Yen-ping is a wonderfully picturesque old city, situated on a hill at a fork of the river and surrounded by high stone walls pierced and loopholed for rifle fire. Such walls, while of little use against artillery, nevertheless offer a formidable obstacle to anything less than field guns as we ourselves were destined to discover.

As it was impossible to collect anything further up the river due to the bandits, we left for Yen-ping two days after arriving at Yuchi. Yen-ping is a beautifully scenic old city, located on a hill at a fork in the river and surrounded by tall stone walls with openings for rifle fire. While these walls offer little protection against artillery, they still present a significant barrier to anything less than field guns, as we were about to find out.

The Methodist mission compound encloses a considerable area on the very summit of the hill, backed by the city wall, and besides the four dwelling houses, comprises two large schools for boys and girls. Mr. Caldwell's residence commands a wonderful view down the river and in the late afternoon sunlight when the hills are bathed in pink and lavender and purple a more beautiful spot can hardly be imagined.

The Methodist mission compound covers a large area at the top of the hill, backed by the city wall. In addition to the four houses, it includes two big schools for boys and girls. Mr. Caldwell's house has an amazing view of the river, and in the late afternoon sunlight, when the hills are glowing in pink, lavender, and purple, it’s hard to imagine a more beautiful place.

But the delights of Yen-ping are somewhat tempered by the abominable weather. In summer the heat is almost unbearable and the air is so nearly saturated from continual rain that it is impossible to dry anything except over a fire. From all reports winter must be almost as bad in the opposite extreme for the cold is damp and penetrating; but the early fall is said to be delightful.

But the pleasures of Yen-ping are somewhat overshadowed by the awful weather. In summer, the heat is nearly unbearable, and the air is so saturated from constant rain that you can only dry things over a fire. From what I've heard, winter is almost equally bad in the opposite way because the cold is damp and gets into your bones. However, early fall is said to be lovely.

The larger part of Fukien, like many other provinces in China, has been denuded of forests, and the groves - 25 - of pine which remain have all been planted. This deforestation consequently has driven out the game, and except for tigers, leopards, wolves, wild pigs, serows and gorals, none of the large species is left. However, the dense growth of sword grass and the thorny bushes which clothe the hills and choke the ravines give cover to muntjac, or barking deer, and many species of small cats, civets, and other Viverines. These animals come to the rice paddys, which fill every valley, to hunt for frogs and fish, but it is difficult to catch them because of the Chinese who are continually at work in the fields.

The majority of Fukien, like many other provinces in China, has lost its forests, and the remaining pine groves have all been planted. This deforestation has driven away most wildlife, leaving only tigers, leopards, wolves, wild boars, serows, and gorals among the large species. However, the thick growth of sword grass and thorny bushes covering the hills and filling the ravines provides shelter for muntjac, or barking deer, as well as many species of small cats, civets, and other Viverines. These animals come to the rice paddies that fill every valley to hunt for frogs and fish, but it’s tough to catch them because the locals are always working in the fields.

We spent a week trapping about Yen-ping and although we caught a good many animals they were almost always stolen together with the traps. We had this same difficulty in Yün-nan as well as in Fukien. None of us had ever seen natives in any part of the world who were such unmitigated thieves as the Chinese of these two provinces. The small mammals are hardly more abundant than the larger ones for the natives wage an unceasing war on those about the rice paddys and have exterminated nearly all but a few widely distributed forms.

We spent a week trapping around Yen-ping, and although we caught a lot of animals, they were almost always stolen along with the traps. We faced the same problem in Yün-nan and Fukien. None of us had ever encountered natives anywhere else in the world who were such blatant thieves as the Chinese in these two provinces. The smaller mammals are hardly more plentiful than the larger ones since the locals are constantly hunting them around the rice paddies and have wiped out almost all except for a few widely spread species.

- 26 -

CHAPTER IV

A BAT CAVE IN THE BIG RAVINE

A few days after our arrival in Yen-ping we went with Mr. Caldwell and his son Oliver to a Taoist temple seven miles away in a lonely ravine known as Chi-yuen-kang. The walk to the temple in the early morning was delightful. The "bamboo chickens" and francolins were calling all about us and on the way we shot enough for our first day's dinner. Both these birds are abundant in Fukien Province but it is by no means easy to kill them for they live in such thick cover that they can only be flushed with difficulty.

A few days after we arrived in Yen-ping, we went with Mr. Caldwell and his son Oliver to a Taoist temple located seven miles away in a secluded ravine called Chi-yuen-kang. The walk to the temple in the early morning was lovely. The "bamboo chickens" and francolins were calling all around us, and on the way, we caught enough for our first dinner. Both of these birds are common in Fukien Province, but it’s not easy to hunt them since they live in such dense cover that flushing them out is quite challenging.

Early in the morning we frequently heard the francolins crowing in the trees or on the top of a hill and when a cock had taken possession of such a spot the intrusion of another was almost sure to cause trouble which only ended when one of them had been driven off.

Early in the morning, we often heard the francolins calling from the trees or the top of a hill. When one cock claimed a spot, the arrival of another would almost always lead to a conflict that would only end when one of them got chased away.

For two miles and a half the Big Ravine is a narrow cut between perpendicular rock walls thickly clothed to their very summits with bamboo and a tangle of thorny vines. In the bottom of the gorge a mountain torrent foams among huge bowlders but becomes a gentle, slow moving stream when it leaves the cool darkness of the cañon to spread itself over the terraced rice fields.

For two and a half miles, the Big Ravine is a narrow gap between steep rock walls that are densely covered all the way to the top with bamboo and a tangle of thorny vines. At the bottom of the gorge, a mountain stream rushes among large boulders but turns into a gentle, slow-moving stream when it leaves the cool darkness of the canyon to flow into the terraced rice fields.

About a mile from the entrance two old temples nestle into the hillside. One stands just over the water, - 27 - but the other clings to the rock wall three hundred feet above the river, and it was there that we made our camp.

About a mile from the entrance, two old temples sit on the hillside. One is just over the water, 27 but the other clings to the rock wall three hundred feet above the river, and that’s where we set up our camp.

The old priest in charge did not appear especially delighted to see us until I slipped a Mexican dollar into his hand—then it was laughable to see his change of face. The far end of the balcony was given up to us while Mr. Caldwell and Oliver put up their beds at the feet of a grinning idol in the main temple.

The old priest in charge didn't seem particularly happy to see us until I slipped a Mexican dollar into his hand—then it was hilarious to see his reaction. The far end of the balcony was reserved for us while Mr. Caldwell and Oliver set up their beds at the feet of a grinning idol in the main temple.

We had come to Chi-yuen-kang to hunt serow (see Chapter XVII) and had brought with us only a few traps for small mammals. Harry had seen several serow exhibited for sale on market days in towns along the river, and all were reported to have been killed near this ravine. There was a village of considerable size at the upper end and here we collected a motley lot of beaters with half a dozen dogs to drive the top of a mountain which towered about two thousand five hundred feet above the river.

We had arrived at Chi-yuen-kang to hunt serow (see Chapter XVII) and had only brought a few traps for small animals. Harry had noticed several serow for sale on market days in towns along the river, and they all had reportedly been hunted near this ravine. There was a sizable village at the upper end, and here we gathered a diverse group of locals along with half a dozen dogs to drive up the top of a mountain that rose about two thousand five hundred feet above the river.

Never will we forget that climb! We tried to start at daylight but it was well toward six o'clock before we got our men together. A Chinaman would drive an impatient man to apoplexy and an early grave for it is well-nigh impossible to get him started within an hour of the appointed time, and with a half dozen the difficulty is multiplied as many times. Just when you think all is ready and that there can be no possible reason for delaying longer, the whole crowd will disappear suddenly and you discover that they have gone for "chow." Then you know that the end is really in sight, for chow usually is the last thing.

We'll never forget that climb! We tried to start at dawn, but it was nearly six o'clock before we gathered our team. A Chinese guy could drive an impatient person crazy, and it’s almost impossible to get him going within an hour of the scheduled time; with a group of six, the challenge multiplies. Just when you think everything is ready and there can’t possibly be any more delays, the whole group suddenly vanishes, and you find out they've gone for food. At that point, you realize that the end is truly in sight, because food is usually the last thing.

We waited nearly two hours on this particular morning before we started on the long climb to the top of the - 28 - mountain. The sun was simply blazing, and in fifteen minutes we were soaked with perspiration. When we were half way up the dogs disappeared in a small ravine overgrown with bamboo and sword grass and suddenly broke into a chorus of yelps. They had found a fresh trail and were driving our way.

We waited almost two hours that morning before finally starting the long climb to the top of the - 28 - mountain. The sun was blazing, and within fifteen minutes we were drenched in sweat. Halfway up, the dogs vanished into a small ravine thick with bamboo and tall grass and suddenly started yelping. They had picked up a fresh trail and were heading our way.

Harry ran to a narrow opening in the jungle, shouting to us to watch another higher up. We were hardly in position when his rifle banged, followed by such a bedlam of yells and barks that we thought he must have killed nothing less than one of the hunters. Before we reached them Harry appeared, smiling all over, and dragging a muntjac (Muntiacus) by the fore legs. He had just made a beautiful shot, for the clearing he had been watching was not more than ten feet wide and the muntjac flashed across it at full speed. Caldwell fired while it was in mid-air and his bullet caught the animal at the base of the neck, rolling it over stone dead.

Harry dashed to a narrow gap in the jungle, shouting for us to watch another one higher up. We were barely in position when his rifle went off, followed by such a chaotic mix of yells and barks that we thought he must've shot one of the hunters. Before we reached them, Harry appeared, grinning from ear to ear, dragging a muntjac (Muntiacus) by its front legs. He had just made an amazing shot because the clearing he was watching was only about ten feet wide, and the muntjac zipped across it at full speed. Caldwell fired while it was in mid-air, and his bullet struck the animal at the base of its neck, dropping it stone dead.

This beautiful little deer in Fukien is hardly larger than a fox. Its antlers are only two or three inches in length and rise from an elongated skin-covered pedicel instead of from the base of the skull as in all other members of the deer family. On each side of the upper jaw is a slender tusk, about two inches long, which projects well beyond the lips and makes a rather formidable weapon.

This beautiful little deer in Fukien is barely bigger than a fox. Its antlers are only two or three inches long and grow from an elongated skin-covered base instead of from the back of the skull like all other deer. On each side of its upper jaw is a slender tusk, about two inches long, that sticks out well beyond its lips and serves as a pretty impressive weapon.

We hoped that this muntjac was going to prove a "good joss," but instead a disappointing day was in store for us. When we had worked our way to the very summit of the mountain under a merciless sun and over a trail which led through a smothering bamboo jungle, we saw dozens of fresh serow tracks. The animals were there without a doubt and we were on the qui vive with excitement.

We hoped that this muntjac would turn out to be lucky for us, but instead, a disappointing day awaited. After making our way to the very top of the mountain under a relentless sun and over a path that went through a suffocating bamboo jungle, we spotted dozens of fresh serow tracks. The animals were definitely nearby, and we were on high alert with excitement.

A Chinese hunter and a muntjac.

Brigands Killed in the Yen-ping Uprising

- 29 -

We selected positions and the men made a long circuit to drive toward us as Caldwell had directed. After half an hour had passed we heard them yelling as they closed in, but what was our disgust to see them solemnly parading in single file up the bottom of the valley on an open trail and carefully avoiding all thickets where a serow could possibly be. As Harry expressed it, "all the animals had to do was to sit tight and watch the noble procession pass." The beaters very evidently knew nothing whatever about driving nor were we able to teach them, for they seriously objected to leaving the open trails and going into the bush.

We picked our spots, and the guys made a long trek to come towards us, just like Caldwell instructed. After about thirty minutes, we heard them shouting as they approached, but we were so disappointed to see them marching in a single line up the bottom of the valley on an open path, carefully avoiding any thickets where a serow might be. As Harry put it, "all the animals had to do was stay still and watch the noble parade go by." The beaters clearly had no clue about driving, and we couldn’t teach them either because they were adamantly against leaving the open trails and going into the brush.

We worked hard for serow but the men were hopeless and it was impossible to "still hunt" the animals at that time of the year. The natives say that in September when the mushrooms are abundant in the lower forests the serow leave the mountain tops and thick cover to feed upon the fungus, and that they may be killed without the aid of beaters, but at any time the hunt would involve a vast amount of labor with only a moderate chance of success. After we had left Fukien, Mr. Caldwell purchased a fine male and female serow for us which are especially interesting as they represent a different subspecies (Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes) from those we killed in Yün-nan.

We put in a lot of effort to hunt for serow, but the men were ineffective, making it impossible to hunt quietly during that time of year. The locals say that in September, when mushrooms are plentiful in the lower forests, the serow come down from the mountain tops and thick cover to eat the fungus, and they can be hunted without using beaters. However, at any time, the hunt would require a lot of work with only a fair chance of success. After we left Fukien, Mr. Caldwell bought us a great male and female serow, which are particularly intriguing because they belong to a different subspecies (Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes) than the ones we hunted in Yün-nan.

Chi-yuen-kang did yield us results, however, for we discovered a wonderful bat cave less than a mile from our temple. Its entrance was a low round hole half covered with vegetation, and opening into a high circular gallery; from this three long corridors branched off like fingers from the palm of a giant's hand. The - 30 - cave was literally alive with bats. There must have been ten thousand and on the first day we killed a hundred, representing seven species and at least four genera. This was especially remarkable as it is unusual to find more than two or three species living together.

Chi-yuen-kang did give us results, though, because we found an amazing bat cave less than a mile from our temple. Its entrance was a low round hole partly covered with plants, leading into a high circular room; from this room, three long passages branched off like fingers from a giant's hand. The - 30 - cave was literally teeming with bats. There had to be around ten thousand, and on the first day, we caught a hundred, which included seven species and at least four genera. This was especially surprising since it's rare to find more than two or three species living together.

The cave was a regular bat apartment house for each corridor was divided by rock partitions into several small rooms in every one of which bats of different species were rearing their families. The young in most instances were only a few days old but were thickly clustered on the walls and ceilings, and each and every one was squeaking at the top of its tiny lungs. The place must have been occupied for scores, if not hundreds, of years for the floor was knee-deep with dung.

The cave was like a typical bat high-rise, as each corridor was split by rock walls into several small rooms where different species of bats were raising their young. Most of the babies were only a few days old but were packed tightly on the walls and ceilings, and every single one was squeaking at the top of its little lungs. The place must have been home to them for decades, if not centuries, since the floor was knee-deep in waste.

When we returned the day after our first visit we found that many of the young bats had been removed by their parents and in some instances entire rooms had been vacated. After the first day the odor of the cave was so nauseating that to enable us to go inside it was necessary to wear gauze pads of iodoform over our noses.

When we came back the day after our first visit, we found that many of the young bats had been taken away by their parents, and in some cases, entire rooms had been emptied. After the first day, the smell of the cave was so overwhelming that to make it possible for us to go inside, we had to wear gauze pads soaked in iodoform over our noses.

The bats at this place were killed with bamboo switches but later we always used a long gill net which had been especially made in New York. We could hang the net over the entrance to a cave and, when all was ready, send a native into the galleries to stir up the animals. As they flew out they became entangled in the net and could be caught or killed before they were able to get away. It was sometimes possible to catch every specimen in a cavern, and moreover, to secure them in perfect condition without broken skulls or wings.

The bats in this area were initially killed with bamboo sticks, but later we always used a long gill net specifically made in New York. We could hang the net at the entrance of a cave and, once everything was set up, send a local person into the tunnels to drive the animals out. As they flew out, they would get tangled in the net, allowing us to

If a bat escaped from the net it would never again - 31 - strike it, for the animals are wonderfully accurate in flight and most expert dodgers. Even while in a cave, where hundreds of bats were in the air, they seldom flew against us, although we might often be brushed by their wings; and it was a most difficult thing to hit them with a bamboo switch. Their ability in dodging is without doubt a necessary development of their feeding habits for, with the exception of a few species, bats live exclusively upon insects and catch them in the air.

If a bat got away from the net, it would never get caught again because these animals are incredibly precise flyers and are really good at dodging. Even in a cave, where hundreds of bats were flying around, they rarely crashed into us, although we occasionally felt their wings brush past. It was really hard to hit them with a bamboo stick. Their dodging skills are definitely a necessary adaptation for how they feed, since, except for a few species, bats primarily eat insects and catch them while flying. - 31 -

It is a rather terrifying experience for a girl to sit in a bat cave especially if the light has gone out and she is in utter darkness. Of course she has a cap tightly pulled over her ears, for what girl, even if she be a naturalist's wife, would venture into a den of evil bats with one wisp of hair exposed!

It’s pretty scary for a girl to sit in a bat cave, especially if the lights go out and she’s surrounded by total darkness. Naturally, she has a cap pulled down tight over her ears, because what girl, even if she’s the wife of a naturalist, would dare to enter a den of creepy bats with even a single strand of hair showing!

All about is the swish of ghostly wings which brush her face or neck and the air is full of chattering noises like the grinding of hundreds of tiny teeth. Sometimes a soft little body plumps into her lap and if she dares to take her hands from her face long enough to disengage the clinging animal she is liable to receive a vicious bite from teeth as sharp as needles. But, withal, it is good fun, and think how quickly formalin jars or collecting trays can be filled with beautiful specimens!

All around her are the swishing of ghostly wings that brush against her face or neck, and the air is filled with chattering sounds like the grinding of hundreds of tiny teeth. Sometimes a soft little body lands in her lap and if she’s brave enough to take her hands away from her face long enough to free the clingy creature, she might get a nasty bite from teeth as sharp as needles. But still, it’s good fun, and just think how quickly jars of formalin or collecting trays can be filled with beautiful specimens!

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CHAPTER V

THE YEN-PING REBELLION

The Yen-Ping Rebellion

On Sunday, June 18, we went to the bat cave to obtain a new supply of specimens. Upon our return, just as we were about to sit down to luncheon, four excited Chinese appeared with the following letter from Mr. Caldwell:

On Sunday, June 18, we went to the bat cave to get a new supply of specimens. When we got back, just as we were about to sit down for lunch, four excited Chinese people showed up with a letter from Mr. Caldwell:

Dear Roy:

There was quite a lively time in the city at an early hour this morning. The rebels have taken Yen-ping and it looks as though there was trouble ahead. Northern soldiers have been sent for and the chances are that either tonight or tomorrow morning there will be quite a battle. Bankhardt, Dr. Trimble and myself have just made a round of the city, visiting the telegraph office, post office and other places, and while we do not believe that the foreigners will be molested, nevertheless it is impossible to tell just what to expect. It is certain, however, that the Consul will order all of us to Foochow if news of the situation reaches there. Owing to the uncertainty, I think you had better come in to Yen-ping so as to be ready for any eventuality.

There was a lot of action in the city early this morning. The rebels have taken Yen-ping, and it looks like trouble is ahead. Northern soldiers have been called in, and it’s likely that there will be a significant battle either tonight or tomorrow morning. Bankhardt, Dr. Trimble, and I just finished a round of the city, visiting the telegraph office, post office, and other places. While we don’t believe that foreigners will be harmed, it’s hard to predict what might happen. However, it’s certain that the Consul will order us all to Foochow if any news about the situation arrives there. Given the uncertainty, I think it would be best for you to come to Yen-ping to be prepared for anything.

After talking the situation over with Dr. Trimble and Mr. Bankhardt, we all agreed that the wisest thing is for you to come in immediately. I am sending four burden-bearers for it will be out of the question to find any tomorrow, if trouble occurs tonight. The city gates are closed so you will have to climb up the ladder over the wall behind our compound. Best wishes.

After discussing the situation with Dr. Trimble and Mr. Bankhardt, we all agreed that the best decision is for you to come in right away. I'm sending four helpers because it won't be possible to find any tomorrow if trouble arises tonight. The city gates are locked, so you'll need to climb the ladder over the wall behind our compound. Best wishes.

Harry.

- 33 -

P. S.—Later: It is again reported that Northern soldiers are to arrive tonight. If they do and trouble occurs your only chance is to get to Yen-ping today.

P. S.—Later: It’s been reported again that Northern soldiers are set to arrive tonight. If they do and there’s trouble, your only chance is to get to Yen-ping today.

H. C.

The camp immediately was thrown into confusion for Da-Ming, the cook, and the burden-bearers were jabbering excitedly at the top of their voices. The servants began to pack the loads at once and meanwhile we ate a roast chicken faster than good table manners would permit—in fact, we took it in our fingers. We were both delighted at the prospect of some excitement and talked almost as fast as the Chinese.

The camp quickly fell into chaos as Da-Ming, the cook, and the porters were chattering excitedly at the top of their lungs. The staff started packing the loads right away while we devoured a roast chicken quicker than proper manners would allow—in fact, we ate it with our hands. We were both thrilled at the idea of some excitement and talked almost as quickly as the Chinese.

In just one hour from the time Harry's letter had been received, we were on the way to Yen-ping. It was the hottest part of the day, and we were dripping with perspiration when we left the cool darkness of the ravine and struck across the open valley, which lay shimmering in a furnace-like heat. At the first rest house an the top of the long hill we waited nearly an hour for our bearers who were struggling under the heavy loads.

In just one hour after receiving Harry's letter, we were on our way to Yen-ping. It was the hottest part of the day, and we were soaked in sweat when we left the cool darkness of the ravine and crossed the open valley, which shimmered in the intense heat. At the first rest house at the top of the long hill, we waited almost an hour for our bearers who were struggling with the heavy loads.

Three miles farther on a poor woman tottered past us on her peglike feet leaning on the arm of a man. A short distance more and we came to the second rest house. We had been there but a few moments when three panting women, steadying themselves with long staves and barely able to walk on feet not more than four inches long, came up the hill. With them were several men bearing household goods in large bundles and huge red boxes.

Three miles down the road, a frail woman wobbled by us on her stick-like feet, leaning on a man's arm. A little further, we arrived at the second rest house. We had only been there for a few moments when three out-of-breath women, using long sticks for support and struggling to walk on feet that were barely four inches long, climbed up the hill. Along with them were several men carrying household items in large bundles and huge red boxes.

The exhausted women sank upon the benches and fanned themselves while the perspiration ran down their - 34 - flushed faces. They looked so utterly miserable that we told the cook to give them a piece of cake which Mrs. Caldwell had sent us the day before. Their gratitude was pitiful, but, of course, they gave the larger share to the men.

The tired women collapsed onto the benches and fanned themselves as sweat dripped down their flushed faces. They looked so completely miserable that we told the cook to give them a piece of cake that Mrs. Caldwell had sent us the day before. Their gratitude was heartfelt, but, of course, they gave the bigger portion to the men. - 34 -

It was not long before other women and children appeared on the hill path, all struggling upward under heavy loads, or tottering along on tightly bound feet. Probably these women had not walked so far in their entire lives, but the fear of the Northern soldiers and what would happen in the city if they took possession had driven them from their homes.

It wasn't long before other women and children showed up on the hill path, all struggling to climb up under heavy loads or wobbling along on tightly bound feet. These women probably had never walked such a distance in their lives, but the fear of the Northern soldiers and what would happen in the city if they took over had pushed them out of their homes.

Farther on we had a clear view across the valley where a long line of people was filing up to a temple which nestled into the hillside. Half a mile beyond were two other temples both crowded with refugees and their goods. Hundreds of families were seeking shelter in every little house beside the road and were overflowing into the cowsheds and pigpens.

Farther along, we could see clearly across the valley where a long line of people was making their way up to a temple that was tucked into the hillside. Half a mile ahead stood two more temples, both packed with refugees and their belongings. Hundreds of families were looking for shelter in every small house along the road and were spilling over into the cowsheds and pigpens.

At six o'clock we stood on the summit of the hill overlooking the city and half an hour later were clambering up the ladder over the high wall of the compound, just behind Dr. Trimble's house. We were wet through and while cooling off heard the story of the morning's fighting. It seemed that a certain element in the city was in coöperation with the representatives of the revolutionary organization. These men wished to obtain possession of Yen-ping and, after the rebellion was well started, to gather forces, march to Foochow, and force the Governor to declare the independence of the province.

At six o'clock, we stood at the top of the hill, looking over the city, and half an hour later, we were climbing up the ladder over the high wall of the compound, just behind Dr. Trimble's house. We were soaked through, and while cooling off, we heard about the fighting that morning. It seemed that certain people in the city were working with representatives of the revolutionary organization. These men wanted to take control of Yen-ping and, once the rebellion was underway, gather forces, march to Foochow, and pressure the Governor to declare the province's independence.

The plot had been hatching for several days, but the death of Yuan Shi-kai had somewhat delayed its fruition. Saturday, however, it was known throughout the - 35 - city that trouble would soon begin. Sunday morning at half past three, a band of one hundred men from Yuchi had marched to Yen-ping where they were received by a delegation of rebels dressed in white who opened to them the east gate of the city. Immediately they began to fire up the streets to intimidate the people and in a short time were in a hot engagement with the seventeen Northern soldiers, some of whom threw away their guns and swam across the river. The remaining city troops were from the province of Hunan and their sympathies were really with the South in the great rebellion. These immediately joined the rebels, where they were received with open arms. It was reported that the tao-tai (district mandarin) had asked for troops from Foochow and that these might be expected at any moment; thus when they arrived a real battle could be expected and it was very likely that the city would be partly destroyed.

The plot had been brewing for several days, but the death of Yuan Shi-kai had slightly postponed its execution. On Saturday, it became clear across the city that trouble was on the horizon. Early Sunday morning at 3:30 AM, a group of one hundred men from Yuchi marched to Yen-ping, where they were met by a delegation of rebels dressed in white who opened the east gate of the city for them. They immediately started firing in the streets to intimidate the locals, and soon found themselves engaged in a fierce fight with seventeen Northern soldiers, some of whom discarded their weapons and swam across the river. The remaining city troops were from Hunan, and their loyalties were actually with the South in the ongoing rebellion. They quickly sided with the rebels, who welcomed them with open arms. It was reported that the tao-tai (district mandarin) had requested troops from Foochow, and these could arrive at any moment; therefore, when they did, a real battle was anticipated, and it was likely that part of the city would be destroyed.

We had a picnic supper on the Caldwell's porch and discussed the situation. It was the opinion of all that the foreigners were in no immediate danger, but nevertheless it was considered wise to be prepared, and we decided upon posts for each man if it should become necessary to protect the compound.

We had a picnic dinner on the Caldwell's porch and talked about the situation. Everyone agreed that the foreigners were not in any immediate danger, but it was still seen as smart to be ready, so we decided on roles for each person in case we needed to protect the compound.

Hundreds of people were besieging the missionaries with requests to be allowed to bring their goods and families inside the walls, but these necessarily had to be refused. Had the missionaries allowed the Chinese to bring their valuables inside it would have cost them the right of Consular protection and, moreover, their compound would have been the first to be attacked if looting began.

Hundreds of people were surrounding the missionaries, asking to be allowed to bring their belongings and families inside the walls, but they had to turn them down. If the missionaries had let the Chinese bring their valuables in, they would have lost their Consular protection, and their compound would have been the first target if looting started.

On Monday morning while we were sitting on the - 36 - porch of Mr. Caldwell's house preparing some bird skins, there came a sharp crackle of rifle fire and then a roar of shots. Bullets began to whistle over us and we could see puffs of smoke as the deep bang of a black powder gun punctuated the vicious snapping of the high-power rifles. The firing gradually ceased after half an hour and we decided to go down to the city to see what had happened, for, as no Northern troops had appeared, the cause of the fighting was a mystery.

On Monday morning, while we were sitting on the - 36 - porch of Mr. Caldwell's house getting some bird skins ready, we suddenly heard a sharp crack of rifle fire followed by a barrage of shots. Bullets started zipping overhead, and we could see puffs of smoke as the loud bang of a black powder gun broke through the harsh sounds of high-powered rifles. After about half an hour, the shooting gradually stopped, and we decided to head down to the city to find out what had happened since, with no Northern troops in sight, the reason for the fighting was a mystery.

We went first to the mission hospital which lay across a deep ravine and only a few yards from the quarters of the soldiers. At the door of the hospital compound lay a bloody rag, and we found Dr. Trimble in the operating room examining a wounded man who had just been brought in. The fellow had been shot in the abdomen with a 45-caliber lead ball that had gone entirely through him, emerging about three inches to the right of his spine.

We first went to the mission hospital, which was across a deep ravine and just a few yards from the soldiers' quarters. At the entrance of the hospital grounds, there was a bloody rag, and we found Dr. Trimble in the operating room examining a wounded man who had just been brought in. The guy had been shot in the abdomen with a .45 caliber bullet that had completely gone through him, coming out about three inches to the right of his spine.

From the doctor we got the first real news of the puzzling situation. It appeared that all the men who had arrived Sunday morning from Yuchi to join the Yen-ping rebels were in reality brigands and, to save their own lives, the Hunan soldiers quartered in the city had played a clever trick. They had pretended to join the rebels but at a given signal had turned upon them, killing or capturing almost every one. Although their sympathies were really with the South, the Hunan men knew that the rebels in Yen-ping could not hold the city against the Northern soldiers from Foochow and, by crushing the rebellion themselves, they hoped to avert a bigger fight.

From the doctor, we got the first real update on the confusing situation. It turned out that all the men who arrived Sunday morning from Yuchi to join the Yen-ping rebels were actually bandits, and to save themselves, the Hunan soldiers stationed in the city pulled a clever trick. They pretended to join the rebels, but at a certain signal, they turned on them, killing or capturing nearly everyone. Even though they were really on the South's side, the Hunan soldiers knew that the rebels in Yen-ping couldn't defend the city against the Northern troops from Foochow. By crushing the rebellion themselves, they hoped to prevent a larger conflict.

As we could not help the doctor he suggested that we might be of some assistance to the wounded in the - 37 - city, and with rude crosses of red cloth pinned to our white shirt sleeves we left the hospital, accompanied by four Chinese attendants bearing a stretcher. In the compound we met a chair in which was lying an old man groaning loudly and dripping with blood. Beside him were his wife and several boys. The poor woman was crying quietly and, between her sobs, was offering the wounded man mustard pickles from a small dish in her hand! Poor things, they have so little to eat that they believe food will cure all ills!

As we couldn’t help the doctor, he suggested that we might be able to assist the injured in the - 37 - city. With makeshift red crosses pinned to our white shirt sleeves, we left the hospital, accompanied by four Chinese attendants carrying a stretcher. In the compound, we came across a chair where an old man was lying, groaning loudly and covered in blood. Next to him were his wife and several boys. The poor woman was quietly crying, and in between her sobs, she was offering the wounded man mustard pickles from a small dish she held! They are so unfortunate; they have so little to eat that they believe food can heal all wounds!

The bearers set the chair down as we appeared and lifted the filthy rag which covered a gaping wound in the man's shoulder, over which had been plastered a great mass of cow dung. Just think of the infection, but it was the only remedy they knew!

The bearers set the chair down as we arrived and lifted the dirty rag that covered a large wound on the man's shoulder, which had been smeared with a thick layer of cow dung. Just imagine the infection, but it was the only treatment they knew!

We took the man upstairs where Dr. Trimble was preparing to operate on the fellow who had been shot in the abdomen. The doctor was working steadily and quietly, making every move count and inspiring his native hospital staff with his own coolness; the way this young missionary handled his cases made us glad that he was an American.

We took the guy upstairs where Dr. Trimble was getting ready to operate on the man who had been shot in the stomach. The doctor was working steadily and quietly, making every move matter and inspiring the local hospital staff with his calmness; the way this young missionary managed his cases made us thankful he was an American.

On the way down the hill several soldiers passed us, each carrying four or five rifles and slung about with cartridge belts—plunder stripped from the men who had been killed. A few hundred yards farther on we found two brigands lying dead in a narrow street. The nearest one had fallen on his face and, as we turned him over, we saw that half his head had been blown away; the other was staring upward with wide open eyes on which the flies already were settling in swarms.

On the way down the hill, several soldiers passed us, each carrying four or five rifles and loaded with cartridge belts—loot taken from the dead men. A few hundred yards further on, we found two brigands lying dead in a narrow street. The one closest had fallen on his face, and as we turned him over, we saw that half of his head had been blown off; the other one was staring up with wide-open eyes, and flies were already swarming around them.

There was little use in wasting time over these men who long ago had passed beyond need of our help, and - 38 - we went on rapidly down the alley to the main thoroughfare. Guided by a small boy, we hurried over the rough stones for fifteen minutes, and suddenly came to a man lying at the side of the street, his head propped on a wooden block. An umbrella once had partly covered him but had fallen away, leaving him unprotected in the broiling sun. His face and a terrible wound in his head were a solid mass of flies, and thousands of insects were crawling over the blood clots on the stones beside him. At first we thought he was dead but soon saw his abdomen move and realized that he was breathing. It did not seem possible that a human being could live under such conditions; and yet the bystanders told us that he had been lying there for thirty hours—he had been shot early the previous morning and it was now three o'clock of the next afternoon.

There was no point in wasting time on these men who had long since moved past our help, and we quickly made our way down the alley to the main road. Guided by a small boy, we hurried over the rough stones for fifteen minutes, and suddenly found a man lying at the side of the street, his head resting on a wooden block. An umbrella had once partially covered him but had fallen away, leaving him exposed in the scorching sun. His face and a horrific wound on his head were covered in flies, and thousands of insects crawled over the blood clots on the stones next to him. At first, we thought he was dead, but we soon saw his abdomen moving and realized that he was breathing. It seemed impossible that a human being could survive under such conditions; yet the bystanders told us that he had been lying there for thirty hours—he had been shot early the previous morning, and it was now three o’clock of the next afternoon.

The man was a poor water-carrier who lived with his wife in the most utter poverty. He had been peering over the city wall when the firing began Sunday morning and was one of the first innocent bystanders to pay the penalty of his curiosity. I asked why he had not been taken to the hospital, and the answer was that his wife was too poor to hire anyone to carry him and he had no friends. So there he lay in the burning sun, gazed at by hundreds of passers-by, without one hand being lifted to help him.

The man was a struggling water-carrier who lived with his wife in complete poverty. He had been looking over the city wall when the shooting started on Sunday morning and was one of the first innocent bystanders to suffer because of his curiosity. I asked why he hadn’t been taken to the hospital, and the answer was that his wife couldn’t afford to hire anyone to carry him, and he had no friends. So there he lay in the blazing sun, stared at by hundreds of people passing by, with no one lifting a finger to help him.

Our hospital attendants brushed away the flies, placed him in the stretcher and started up the long hill, followed by the haggard, weeping wife and a curious crowd. On every hand were questions: "Why are these men taking him away?" "What are they going to do with him?" But several educated natives who understood said, "Ing-ai-gidaiie" (A work of love). They got right - 39 - there a lesson in Christianity which they will not soon forget. It is seldom that Chinese try to help an injured man, for ever present in their minds is the possibility that he may die and that they will be responsible for his burial expenses.

Our hospital attendants swatted away the flies, laid him on the stretcher, and started up the long hill, followed by his exhausted, crying wife and a curious crowd. People were asking questions: "Why are these guys taking him away?" "What are they going to do with him?" But several educated locals who understood said, "Ing-ai-gidaiie" (A work of love). They got a lesson in Christianity right then that they won't forget anytime soon. It's rare for Chinese people to help an injured person because they're constantly worried that he might die and they'll end up having to pay for his burial. 39

We left the stretcher bearers at the corner of the main street with orders to return as soon as they had deposited the man in the hospital and, under the guidance of a boy, hurried toward the east gate where it was said seven or eight men had been shot. Our guide took us first to a brigand who had been wounded and left to die beside the gutter. The corpse was a horrible sight and with a feeling of deathly nausea we made a hurried examination and walked to the gate at the end of the street.

We left the stretcher bearers at the corner of the main street with instructions to come back as soon as they dropped the man off at the hospital, and, with a boy leading the way, we rushed toward the east gate where we heard that seven or eight men had been shot. Our guide first took us to a bandit who had been injured and abandoned to die by the curb. The body was a gruesome sight, and with a wave of intense nausea, we quickly examined it and moved on to the gate at the end of the street.

A dozen soldiers were on guard. We learned from the officer that there were no wounded in the pile of dead just beyond the entrance, so we turned toward the river bank and rapidly patrolled the alleys leading to the tao-tai's yamen (official residence) where the firing had been heaviest. The yamen was crowded with soldiers, and we were informed that the dead had all been removed and that there were no wounded—a grim statement which told its own story.

A dozen soldiers were on guard. We learned from the officer that there were no wounded among the pile of dead just beyond the entrance, so we turned toward the riverbank and quickly patrolled the alleys leading to the tao-tai's yamen (official residence) where the firing had been the heaviest. The yamen was packed with soldiers, and we were told that all the dead had been cleared away and that there were no wounded—a grim statement that told its own story.

The yamen is but a short distance from the hospital so we climbed the hill to the compound. The sun was simply blazing and I realized then what the wounded men must have suffered lying in the heat without shelter. We returned to the house and were resting on the upper porch when suddenly, far down the river, we saw the glint of rifle barrels in the sunlight, and with field glasses made out a long line of khaki-clad men winding along the shore trail. At the same time two - 40 - huge boats filled with soldiers came into view heading for the water gate of the city. These were undoubtedly the Northern troops from Foochow who were expected Monday night.

The yamen is just a short walk from the hospital, so we hiked up the hill to the compound. The sun was blazing, and I realized then what the wounded men must have gone through lying in the heat without any shelter. We went back to the house and were resting on the upper porch when suddenly, far down the river, we spotted the shine of rifle barrels in the sunlight. Using our binoculars, we could see a long line of men in khaki making their way along the shore trail. At the same time, two massive boats filled with soldiers appeared, heading for the city’s water gate. These were definitely the Northern troops from Foochow who were expected Monday night.

Even as we looked there came a sudden roar of musketry and a cloud of smoke drifted up from the barracks right below us—then a rattling fusillade of shots. We could see soldiers running along the walls firing at men below and often in our direction. Bullets hummed in the air like angry bees and we rushed for cover, but in a few moments the firing ceased as suddenly as it began.

Even as we watched, there was a sudden burst of gunfire and a cloud of smoke rose up from the barracks right below us—then a rapid series of shots followed. We could see soldiers running along the walls, shooting at people below and often towards us. Bullets buzzed through the air like angry bees, and we rushed for cover, but a few moments later, the shooting stopped just as abruptly as it had started.

We were at a loss to know what it all meant and why the troops were firing upon the Northern soldiers whom they wished to placate. It was still a mystery when we sat down to dinner at half past seven, but a few minutes later Mr. Bankhardt rushed in saying that he had just received a note from the tao-tai. The mandarin's personal servant had brought word that the Northern soldiers, who had just entered the city, were going to kill him and he begged the missionaries for assistance. Bankhardt also told us of the latest developments in the situation. It seems that the city soldiers supposed the Northern troops to be brigands and had fired upon them and killed several before they discovered their mistake. A very delicate situation had thus been precipitated, for the Northern commander believed that it was treachery and intended to attack the barracks in the morning and kill every man whom he found with a rifle, as well as all the city officials.

We were confused about what it all meant and why the troops were firing on the Northern soldiers they were trying to appease. It was still a mystery when we sat down for dinner at 7:30, but a few minutes later, Mr. Bankhardt rushed in, saying he had just received a note from the tao-tai. The mandarin's personal servant had delivered word that the Northern soldiers, who had just entered the city, were going to kill him, and he was begging the missionaries for help. Bankhardt also updated us on the latest developments. It turns out that the city soldiers thought the Northern troops were bandits and opened fire on them, killing several before realizing their mistake. This led to a very delicate situation, as the Northern commander viewed it as treachery and planned to attack the barracks in the morning, intending to kill every man he found with a rifle, as well as all the city officials.

The story of the way in which the missionaries acted as peacemakers, saved the tao-tai, and prevented the slaughter which surely would have taken place in the - 41 - morning, is too long to be told here, for it was accomplished only after hours of the talk and "face saving" so dear to the heart of the Oriental. Suffice it to say that through the exercise of great tact and a thorough understanding of the Chinese character they were able to settle the matter without bloodshed.

The story of how the missionaries acted as peacemakers, saved the tao-tai, and prevented the slaughter that would have definitely occurred in the - 41 - morning is too long to tell here, as it happened only after hours of discussion and "face saving" that are so important to the Oriental way of thinking. It’s enough to say that through great tact and a deep understanding of Chinese culture, they managed to resolve the situation without any violence.

The following day twenty brigands were given a so-called trial, marched off to the west gate, beheaded amid great enthusiasm, and the incident was closed. In the afternoon a messenger called and delivered to each of us an official letter from the commander of the Northern troops thanking us for the part we had played in averting trouble and bringing the matter to a peaceful end.

The next day, twenty bandits were put on a so-called trial, taken to the west gate, and executed with great enthusiasm, and that wrapped up the incident. In the afternoon, a messenger arrived and handed each of us an official letter from the commander of the Northern troops, expressing gratitude for our role in preventing further issues and resolving the situation peacefully.

An interesting sidelight on the affair was received a few days later. A young man, a Christian, who was born in the same town from which a number of the brigands had come, went to his house on Monday night after the fight and found seven of the robbers concealed in his bedroom. He was terrified because if they were discovered he and all his family would be killed for aiding the bandits. He told them they must leave at once, but they pleaded with him to let them stay for they knew there were soldiers at every corner and that it would be impossible to get away.

An interesting twist in the story came a few days later. A young Christian man, who was from the same town as several of the brigands, returned to his house on Monday night after the fight and discovered seven of the robbers hiding in his bedroom. He was terrified because if they were found, he and his entire family would be murdered for helping the bandits. He told them they had to leave immediately, but they begged him to let them stay, explaining that there were soldiers on every corner and escaping would be impossible.

While he was imploring them to go, a knock sounded at the door. He pushed the brigands into the courtyard, and opened to three soldiers. They said: "We understand you have brigands in your house." He was trembling with fear, but answered, "Come in and see for yourself, if you think so."

While he was urging them to leave, there was a knock at the door. He shoved the bandits into the courtyard and opened the door to three soldiers. They said, "We hear you have bandits in your house." He was shaking with fear but replied, "Come in and see for yourself if that's what you think."

The soldiers were satisfied by his frank open manner and, as they knew him to be a good man, did not search the house, but went away. The poor fellow was - 42 - frightened nearly to death, but as his place was being watched it was impossible for the brigands to leave during the day.

The soldiers were pleased with his honest, straightforward demeanor and, knowing he was a good man, didn’t search the house but left instead. The poor guy was scared nearly to death, but since his place was being watched, it was impossible for the bandits to leave during the day. 42

At night they stripped themselves, shaved their heads, and dressed like coolies, and were able to get to the ladder down the city wall just below the mission compound where they could escape into the hills.

At night, they took off all their clothes, shaved their heads, and wore coolie outfits, allowing them to reach the ladder at the city wall just beneath the mission compound, where they could slip away into the hills.

The day after this occurrence, about four o'clock in the afternoon, a breathless Chinese appeared at the house with a note to Mr. Bankhardt saying that his Chinese teacher and the mission school cook had been arrested by the Northern soldiers and were to be beheaded in an hour. We hurried to the police office where they were confined and found that not only the two men but three others were in custody.

The day after this happened, around four in the afternoon, a breathless Chinese man arrived at the house with a note for Mr. Bankhardt saying that his Chinese teacher and the mission school cook had been arrested by Northern soldiers and were set to be executed in an hour. We rushed to the police station where they were being held and discovered that not only the two men but three others were also in custody.

The mission cook owned a small restaurant under the management of one of his relatives and, while Bankhardt's teacher and the other man were sitting at a table, some Northern soldiers appeared, one of whom owed the restaurant keeper a small amount of money. When asked to pay, the soldier turned upon him and shouted: "You have been assisting the brigands. I saw some of them carrying goods into your house." Thereupon the soldiers arrested everyone in the shop.

The mission cook ran a small restaurant managed by one of his relatives. While Bankhardt's teacher and another man were sitting at a table, a few Northern soldiers showed up, one of whom owed the restaurant owner a little money. When asked to pay, the soldier confronted him and yelled, "You’ve been helping the bandits. I saw some of them bringing goods into your place." Then, the soldiers arrested everyone in the restaurant.

The police officials were quite ready to release the teacher and the other man upon our statements, but they would not allow the cook to go. His hands were kept tightly bound and he was chained to a post by the neck. The soldier who arrested him was his sole accuser, but of course, others would appear to uphold him in his charge if it were necessary.

The police were willing to release the teacher and the other man based on our statements, but they wouldn’t let the cook go. His hands were tightly bound, and he was chained to a post by the neck. The soldier who arrested him was his only accuser, but obviously, others would come forward to back him up if needed.

The cook was as innocent as any one of the missionaries, but it required several hours of work and threats - 43 - of complaint to the government at Foochow to prevent the man from being summarily executed.

The cook was as innocent as any of the missionaries, but it took several hours of effort and threats of complaints to the government in Foochow to keep the man from being executed on the spot. - 43 -

We were not able to get any mail from Foochow during the rebellion because the constant stream of Northern soldiers on their way up the river had paralyzed the entire country to such an extent that all the river men had fled.

We couldn't receive any mail from Foochow during the rebellion because the steady flow of Northern soldiers heading up the river had paralyzed the entire region to the point that all the river workers had escaped.

The soldiers were firing for target practice upon every boat they saw on the river and dozens of men had been killed and then robbed. The Northern commander told us frankly that this could not be prevented, and when we announced that we were going to start with all the missionaries down the river on the following day, he was very much disturbed. He insisted that we have American flags displayed on our boats to prevent being fired upon by the soldiers.

The soldiers were shooting at every boat they spotted on the river for target practice, and many men had been killed and then robbed. The Northern commander honestly told us that this couldn't be stopped, and when we said we were planning to take all the missionaries down the river the next day, he became very worried. He insisted that we display American flags on our boats to avoid being fired upon by the soldiers.

Although it had taken eight days to work our way laboriously through the rapids and up the river from Foochow to Yen-ping, we covered the same distance down the river in twenty-four hours and had breakfast with Mr. Kellogg at his house the morning after we left Yen-ping. In two days our equipment was repacked and ready for the trip to Futsing to hunt the blue tiger.

Although it took us eight days to slowly navigate through the rapids and travel up the river from Foochow to Yen-ping, we made the same journey down the river in just twenty-four hours and had breakfast with Mr. Kellogg at his house the morning after leaving Yen-ping. In two days, our equipment was repacked and ready for the trip to Futsing to hunt the blue tiger.

- 44 -

CHAPTER VI

HUNTING THE "GREAT INVISIBLE"

Hunting the "Great Invisible"

For many years before Mr. Caldwell went to Yen-ping he had been stationed at the city of Futsing, about thirty miles from Foochow. Much of his work consisted of itinerant trips during which he visited the various mission stations under his charge. He almost invariably went on foot from place to place and carried with him a butterfly net and a rifle, so that to so keen a naturalist each day's walk was full of interest.

For many years before Mr. Caldwell went to Yen-ping, he had been based in the city of Futsing, about thirty miles from Foochow. Much of his work involved traveling trips where he visited the different mission stations he was responsible for. He usually walked from place to place and brought along a butterfly net and a rifle, making each day's journey exciting for such an enthusiastic naturalist.

The country was infested with man-eating tigers, and very often the villagers implored him to rid their neighborhood of some one of the yellow raiders which had been killing their children, pigs, or cattle. During ten years he had killed seven tigers in the Futsing region. He often said that his gun had been just as effective in carrying Christianity to the natives as had his evangelistic work. Although Mr. Caldwell has been especially fortunate and has killed his tigers without ever really hunting them, nevertheless it is a most uncertain sport as we were destined to learn. The tiger is the "Great Invisible"—he is everywhere and nowhere, here today and gone tomorrow. A sportsman in China may get his shot the first day out or he may hunt for weeks without ever seeing a tiger even though they are all about him; and it is this very uncertainty that makes the game all the more fascinating.

The country was overrun with man-eating tigers, and the villagers frequently begged him to remove one of the yellow marauders that had been killing their children, pigs, or cattle. Over ten years, he had killed seven tigers in the Futsing area. He often remarked that his gun was just as effective in spreading Christianity to the locals as his evangelistic efforts were. Although Mr. Caldwell had been particularly lucky and had killed his tigers without actually hunting them, it was still a highly unpredictable pursuit, as we were destined to find out. The tiger is the "Great Invisible"—present everywhere and nowhere, here one day and gone the next. A hunter in China might get a shot on the first day out, or he could hunt for weeks without seeing a tiger even though they are all around him; and it is this very unpredictability that makes the hunt even more thrilling.

The part of Fukien Province about Futsing includes - 45 - mountains of considerable height, many of which are planted with rice and support a surprising number of Chinese who are grouped in closely connected villages. While the cultivated valleys afford no cover for tiger and the mountain slopes themselves are usually more or less denuded of forest, yet the deep and narrow ravines, choked with sword grass and thorny bramble, offer an impenetrable retreat in which an animal can sleep during the day without fear of being disturbed. It is possible for a man to make his way through these lairs only by means of the paths and tunnels which have been opened by the tigers themselves.

The area of Fukien Province around Futsing features quite tall mountains, many of which are planted with rice and support a surprising number of Chinese people living in tightly-knit villages. While the cultivated valleys don't provide shelter for tigers and the mountain slopes are usually mostly stripped of forest, the deep and narrow ravines, thick with sword grass and thorny brambles, offer an impenetrable retreat where an animal can rest during the day without worrying about being disturbed. A person can navigate through these dens only by using the paths and tunnels created by the tigers themselves.

Mr. Caldwell's usual method of hunting was to lead a goat with one or two kids to an open place where they could be fastened just outside the edge of the lair, and then to conceal himself a few feet away. The bleating of the goats would usually bring the tiger into the open where there would be an opportunity for a shot in the late afternoon.

Mr. Caldwell typically hunted by leading a goat with one or two kids to a clear spot where they could be tied up just outside the lair. He would then hide a few feet away. The sound of the goats bleating usually attracted the tiger into the open, giving him a chance for a shot in the late afternoon.

Mr. Caldwell's first experience in hunting tigers was with a shotgun at the village of Lung-tao. His burden-bearers had not arrived with the basket containing his rifle, and as it was already late in the afternoon, he suggested to Da-Da, the Chinese boy who was his constant companion, that they make a preliminary inspection of the lair even though they carried only shotguns loaded with lead slugs about the size of buckshot.

Mr. Caldwell's first experience hunting tigers was with a shotgun in the village of Lung-tao. His bearers hadn't shown up with the basket carrying his rifle, and since it was getting late in the afternoon, he suggested to Da-Da, the Chinese boy who was always with him, that they check out the lair even though they only had shotguns loaded with lead slugs about the size of buckshot.

They tethered a goat just outside the edge of the lair and the tiger responded to its bleating almost immediately. Caldwell did not see the animal until it came into the open about fifty yards away and remained in plain view for almost half an hour. The tiger seemed to suspect danger and crouched on the - 46 - terrace, now and then putting his right foot forward a short distance and drawing it slowly back again. He had approached along a small trail, but before he could reach the goat it was necessary to cross an open space a few yards in width, and to do this the animal flattened himself like a huge striped serpent. His head was extended so that the throat and chin were touching the ground, and there was absolutely no motion of the body other than the hips and shoulders as the beast slid along at an amazingly rapid rate. But at the instant the cat gained the nearest cover it made three flying leaps and landed at the foot of the terrace upon which the goat was tied.

They tied a goat just outside the lair, and the tiger reacted to its bleating almost right away. Caldwell didn’t see the animal until it came into the open about fifty yards away, where it stayed in clear view for almost half an hour. The tiger seemed to sense danger and crouched on the terrace, occasionally moving his right foot forward a bit and then pulling it back slowly. He had approached along a small path, but before he could reach the goat, he had to cross a few yards of open space. To do this, the animal flattened itself like a giant striped snake. Its head was extended so that its throat and chin were touching the ground, and there was no movement in its body except for its hips and shoulders as it slid along at an incredibly fast pace. But just as the cat reached the nearest cover, it made three quick leaps and landed at the foot of the terrace where the goat was tied.

"Just then he saw me," said Mr. Caldwell, "and slowly pushed his great black-barred face over the edge of the grass not fifteen feet away.

"Just then he saw me," said Mr. Caldwell, "and slowly pushed his huge, black-striped face over the edge of the grass, not fifteen feet away."

"I fired point-blank at his head and neck. He leaped into the air with the blood spurting over the grass, and fell into a heap, but gathered himself and slid down over the terraces. As he went I fired a second load of slugs into his hip. He turned about, slowly climbed the hill parallel with us, and stood looking back at me, his face streaming with blood.

"I shot straight at his head and neck. He jumped into the air with blood splattering over the grass and collapsed, but then got up and slid down the terraces. As he moved, I fired a second round of pellets into his hip. He turned around, slowly climbed the hill beside us, and stood there looking back at me, his face covered in blood."

"I was fumbling in my coat trying to find other shells, but before I could reload the gun he walked unsteadily into the lair and lay down. It was already too dark to follow and the next morning a bloody trail showed where he had gone upward into the grass. Later, in the same afternoon, he was found dead by some Chinese more than three miles away."

"I was digging through my coat looking for more shells, but before I could reload the gun, he stumbled into the lair and lay down. It was already too dark to follow him, and the next morning a bloody trail showed where he had gone uphill into the grass. Later that same afternoon, some Chinese found him dead more than three miles away."

During his many experiences with the Futsing tigers Mr. Caldwell has learned much about their habits and - 47 - peculiarities, and some of his observations are given in the following pages.

During his numerous encounters with the Futsing tigers, Mr. Caldwell has learned a lot about their behaviors and quirks, and some of his insights are shared in the following pages. - 47 -

"The tiger is by instinct a coward when confronted by his greatest enemy—man. Bold and daring as he may be when circumstances are in his favor, he will hurriedly abandon a fresh kill at the first cry of a shepherd boy attending a flock on the mountain-side and will always weigh conditions before making an attack. If things do not exactly suit him nothing will tempt him to charge into the open upon what may appear to be an isolated and defenseless goat.

"The tiger is instinctively a coward when faced with his biggest enemy—humans. Even though he may be bold and daring when the odds are in his favor, he will quickly abandon a fresh kill at the first shout of a shepherd boy watching over a flock on the mountainside and will always assess the situation before deciding to attack. If conditions aren't just right for him, nothing will persuade him to charge at what seems like a lone, defenseless goat."

"An experience I had in April, 1910, will illustrate this point. I led a goat into a ravine where a tiger which had been working havoc among the herds of the farmers was said to live. This animal only a few days previous to my hunt had attacked a herd of cows and killed three of them, but on this occasion the beast must have suspected danger and was exceedingly cautious. He advanced under cover along a trail until within one hundred feet of the goat and there stopped to make a survey of the surroundings. Peering into the valley, he saw two men at a distance of five hundred yards or more cutting grass and, after watching intently for a time, the great cat turned and bounded away into the bushes.

"An experience I had in April 1910 illustrates this point. I took a goat into a ravine where a tiger, which had been causing chaos among the farmers' herds, was said to live. Just a few days before my hunt, this animal had attacked a herd of cows and killed three of them, but on this occasion, the tiger seemed to sense danger and was very cautious. It crept along a trail until it was within one hundred feet of the goat and then stopped to survey the area. gazing into the valley, it spotted two men about five hundred yards away cutting grass and, after watching closely for a while, the big cat turned and bolted into the bushes."

"On another occasion this tiger awaited an opportunity to attack a cow which a farmer was using in plowing his field. The man had unhitched his cow and squatted down in the rice paddy to eat his mid-day meal, when the tiger suddenly rushed from cover and killed the animal only a few yards behind the peasant. This shows how daring a tiger may be when he is able to strike from the rear, and when circumstances seem - 48 - to favor an attack. I have known tigers to rush at a dog or hog standing inside a Chinese house where there was the usual confusion of such a dwelling, and in almost every instance the victim was killed, although it was not always carried away.

"One time, this tiger waited for a chance to attack a cow that a farmer was using to plow his field. The man had unhitched his cow and sat down in the rice paddy to have his lunch when the tiger suddenly leaped out from the brush and killed the cow just a few yards behind the farmer. This shows how bold a tiger can be when it can strike from behind, and when the situation seems to support an attack. I've seen tigers charge at a dog or pig inside a Chinese house, where the usual chaos of such a home was happening, and almost every time, the victim was killed, though it wasn't always taken away." - 48 -

"There is probably no creature in the wilds which shows such a combination of daring strategy and slinking cowardice as the tiger. Often courage fails him after he has secured his victim, and he releases it to dash off into the nearest wood.

"There’s probably no creature in the wild that shows such a mix of bold strategy and sneaky cowardice as the tiger. Often, his courage disappears after he has caught his prey, and he lets it go to sprint off into the nearest woods."

"I knew of two Chinese who were deer hunting on a mountain-side when a large tiger was routed from his bed. The beast made a rushing attack on the man standing nearest to the path of his retreat, and seizing him by the leg dragged him into the ravine below. Luckily the man succeeded in grasping a small tree whereupon the tiger released his hold, leaving his victim lying upon the ground almost paralyzed with pain and fear.

"I knew two Chinese hunters who were out deer hunting on a mountainside when a large tiger was startled from its resting place. The tiger made a rapid attack on the man who was closest to the path it was trying to escape along, grabbing him by the leg and dragging him into the ravine below. Fortunately, the man managed to grab onto a small tree, causing the tiger to let go, leaving him lying on the ground almost paralyzed with pain and fear."

"A group of men were gathering fuel on the hills near Futsing when a tiger which had been sleeping in the high grass was disturbed. The enraged beast tinned upon the peasants, killing two of them instantly and striking another a ripping blow with his paw which sent him lifeless to the terrace below. The beast did not attempt to drag either of its victims into the bush or to attack the other persons near by.

A group of men were collecting firewood on the hills near Futsing when a tiger that had been resting in the tall grass was startled. The furious animal turned on the villagers, instantly killing two of them and delivering a devastating blow to another with its paw, sending him lifeless down to the terrace below. The tiger didn’t try to drag any of its victims into the bushes or attack the other people nearby.

"The strength and vitality of a full grown tiger are amazing. I had occasion to spend the night a short time ago in a place where a tiger had performed some remarkable feats. Just at dusk one of these marauders visited the village and discovered a cow and her six-months-old calf in a pen which had been excavated in - 49 - the side of a hill and adjoined a house. There was no possible way to enter the enclosure except by a door opening from the main part of the dwelling or to descend from above. The tiger jumped from the roof upon the neck of the heifer, killing it instantly, and the inmates of the house opened the door just in time to see the animal throw the calf out bodily and leap after it himself. I measured the embankment and found that the exact height was twelve and a half feet.

"The power and energy of a fully grown tiger are incredible. Recently, I spent a night in a place where a tiger had done some astonishing things. Just as dusk fell, one of these predators came to the village and found a cow and her six-month-old calf in a pen built into the side of a hill next to a house. There was no way to get into the pen except through a door leading from the main part of the house or by coming down from above. The tiger jumped from the roof onto the neck of the cow, killing it instantly, and the people in the house opened the door just in time to see the tiger throw the calf out and leap after it. I measured the embankment and found it was exactly twelve and a half feet high."

"The same tiger one noon on a foggy day attacked a hog, just back of the village and carried it into the hills. The villagers pursued the beast and overtook it within half a mile. When the hog, which dressed weighed more than two hundred pounds, was found, it had no marks or bruises upon it other than the deep fang wounds in the neck. This is another instance where courage failed a tiger after he had made off with his kill to a safe distance. The Chinese declare that when carrying such a load a tiger never attempts to drag its prey, but throws it across its back and races off at top speed.

"The same tiger one noon on a foggy day attacked a pig, just outside the village, and carried it into the hills. The villagers chased the animal and caught up to it within half a mile. When the pig, which weighed over two hundred pounds when dressed, was found, it had no marks or bruises on it except for the deep fang wounds in its neck. This is another example of how a tiger's courage sometimes falters after it has taken its prey to a safe distance. The Chinese say that when carrying such a load, a tiger never tries to drag its prey but throws it over its back and sprints away at full speed."

"The finest trophy taken from Fukien Province in years I shot in May, 1910. Two days previous to my hunt this tiger had killed and eaten a sixteen-year-old boy. I happened to be in the locality and decided to make an attempt to dispose of the troublesome beast. Obtaining a mother goat with two small kids, I led them into a ravine near where the boy had been killed. The goat was tied to a tree a short distance from the lair, and the kids were concealed in the tall grass well in toward the place where the tiger would probably be. I selected a suitable spot and kneeled down behind a bank of ferns and grass. The fact that one may be - 50 - stalked by the very beast which one is hunting adds to the excitement and keeps one's nerves on edge. I expected that the tiger would approach stealthily as long as he could not see the goat, as the usual plan of attack, so far as my observation goes, is to creep up under cover as far as possible before rushing into the open. In any case the tiger would be within twenty yards of me before it could be seen.

"The best trophy from Fukien Province in years was the tiger I shot in May 1910. Two days before my hunt, this tiger had killed and eaten a sixteen-year-old boy. I happened to be in the area and decided to try to get rid of the dangerous animal. I obtained a mother goat with two small kids and led them into a ravine near where the boy had been killed. The goat was tied to a tree a short distance from the lair, and the kids were hidden in the tall grass closer to where the tiger would likely be. I found a good spot and knelt down behind a bank of ferns and grass. The fact that you could be stalked by the very animal you’re hunting adds to the thrill and keeps your nerves on edge. I figured the tiger would approach quietly as long as it couldn't see the goat, as the usual strategy, in my experience, is to creep up under cover as far as possible before rushing into the open. In any case, the tiger would be within twenty yards of me before it was visible."

"For more than two hours I sat perfectly still, alert and waiting, behind the little blind of ferns and grass. There was nothing to break the silence other than the incessant bleating of the goats and the unpleasant rasping call of the mountain jay. I had about given up hope of a shot when suddenly the huge head of the man-eater emerged from the bush, exactly where I had expected he would appear and within fifteen feet of the kids. The back, neck, and head of the beast were in almost the same plane as he moved noiselessly forward.

"For over two hours, I sat completely still, alert and waiting, behind the small blind made of ferns and grass. The only sounds breaking the silence were the constant bleating of the goats and the irritating rasping call of the mountain jay. Just when I had started to lose hope of getting a shot, the massive head of the man-eater suddenly appeared from the bushes, exactly where I had expected it to show up and only fifteen feet away from the kids. The back, neck, and head of the creature were almost aligned as it moved silently forward."

"I had implicit confidence in the killing power of the gun in my hand, and at the crack of the rifle the huge brute settled forward with hardly a quiver not ten feet from the kids upon which he was about to spring. A second shot was not necessary but was fired as a matter of precaution as the tiger had fallen behind rank grass, and the bullet passed through the shoulder blade lodging in the spine. The beast measured more than nine feet and weighed almost four hundred pounds.

"I had complete confidence in the killing power of the gun in my hand, and at the crack of the rifle, the massive beast settled forward with barely a twitch, not even ten feet from the kids it was about to attack. A second shot wasn't needed but was fired as a precaution since the tiger had fallen into the tall grass, and the bullet went through the shoulder blade, lodging in the spine. The animal was over nine feet long and weighed nearly four hundred pounds."

"Upon hearing the shots the villagers swarmed into the ravine, each eager not so much to see their slain tormentor as to gather up the blood. But little attention was paid to the tiger until every available drop was sopped up with rags torn from their clothing, whilst men - 51 - and children even pulled up the blood-soaked grass. I learned that the blood of a tiger is used for two purposes. A bit of blood-stained cloth is tied about the neck of a child as a preventive against either measles or smallpox, and tiger flesh is eaten for the same purpose. It is also said that if a handkerchief stained with tiger blood is waved in front of an attacking dog the animal will slink away cowed and terrified.

"After hearing the gunshots, the villagers rushed into the ravine, not so much to see their dead tormentor but to collect the blood. They paid little attention to the tiger until every drop was soaked up with rags torn from their clothing, while men and children even pulled up the blood-soaked grass. I found out that tiger blood is used for two main purposes. A piece of blood-stained cloth is tied around a child's neck as a way to prevent measles or smallpox, and tiger meat is eaten for the same reason. It's also said that if you wave a handkerchief stained with tiger blood in front of an attacking dog, the animal will back down, scared and intimidated."

"From the Chinese point of view the skin is not the most valuable part of a tiger. Almost always before a hunt is made, or a trap is built, the villagers hum incense before the temple god, and an agreement is made to the effect that if the enterprise be successful the skin of the beast taken becomes the property of the gods. Thus it happens that in many of the temples handsome tiger-skin robes may be found spread in the chair occupied by the noted 'Duai Uong,' or the god of the land. When a hunt is successful, the flesh and bones are considered of greatest value, and it often happens that a number of cows are killed and their flesh mixed with that of the tiger to be sold at the exorbitant price cheerfully paid for tiger meat. The bones are boiled for a number of days until a gelatine-like product results, and this is believed to be exceptionally efficacious medicine.

"From the Chinese perspective, the skin isn't the most valuable part of a tiger. Usually, before a hunt or setting a trap, the villagers offer incense at the temple and make an agreement that if the hunt succeeds, the tiger's skin will belong to the gods. As a result, many temples have beautiful tiger-skin robes displayed on the chair of the revered 'Duai Uong,' or the god of the land. When a hunt is successful, the meat and bones are considered the most valuable, and it's common for several cows to be slaughtered, with their meat mixed with the tiger's to be sold at a high price that people willingly pay for tiger meat. The bones are boiled for several days until they turn into a gel-like substance, which is believed to be an exceptionally effective medicine."

"Notwithstanding the danger of still-hunting a tiger in the tangle of its lair, one cannot but feel richly rewarded for the risk when one begins to sum up one's observations. The most interesting result of investigating an oft-frequented lair is concerning the animal's food. That a tiger always devours its prey upon the spot where it is taken or in the adjacent bush is an erroneous idea. This is often true when the kill is too - 52 - heavy to be carried for a long distance, but it is by no means universally so. Not long ago the remains of a young boy were found in a grave adjacent to a tiger's lair a few miles from Futsing city. No child had been reported missing in the immediate neighborhood and everything indicated that the boy had been brought alive to this spot from a considerable distance. The sides of the grave were besmeared with the blood of the unfortunate victim, indicating that the tiger had tortured it just as a cat plays with a mouse as long as it remains alive.

"Despite the dangers of hunting a tiger in its dense lair, the reward of making observations feels significant when you look back on them. The most intriguing finding when exploring a frequently visited lair concerns the tiger's diet. It's a common misconception that a tiger always eats its prey right where it's captured or in the nearby bushes. While this is often the case when the kill is too heavy to move far, it isn’t always true. Recently, the remains of a young boy were discovered in a grave next to a tiger's lair a few miles from Futsing city. No child had been reported missing in the area, and all signs suggested that the boy had been brought alive to that location from quite a distance. The sides of the grave were smeared with the blood of the unfortunate victim, indicating that the tiger had tortured it much like a cat plays with a mouse while it's still alive."

"In the lair of a tiger there are certain terraces, or places under overhanging trees, which are covered with bones, and are evidently spots to which the animal brings its prey to be devoured. On such a terrace one will find the remains of deer, wild hog, dog, pig, porcupine, pangolin, and other animals both domestic and wild. A fresh kill shows that with its rasp-like tongue the tiger licks off all the hair of its prey before devouring it and the hair will be found in a circle around what remains of the kill. The Chinese often raid a lair in order to gather up the quills of the porcupine and the bony scales of the pangolin which are esteemed for medicinal purposes.

"In a tiger's lair, there are certain areas or spots beneath overhanging trees that are covered in bones, clearly indicating places where the animal brings its prey to eat. In such a spot, you'll find the remains of deer, wild boar, dogs, pigs, porcupines, pangolins, and other domestic and wild animals. A fresh kill reveals that the tiger uses its rough tongue to lick off all the fur from its prey before eating it, and you'll find the fur arranged in a circle around what’s left of the kill. The Chinese often raid a lair to collect the quills of the porcupine and the bony scales of the pangolin, which are valued for their medicinal properties."

"In addition to the larger animals, tigers feed upon reptiles and frogs which they find among the rice fields. On the night of April 22, 1914, a party of frog catchers were returning from a hunt when the man carrying the load of frogs was attacked by a tiger and killed. The animal made no attempt to drag the man away and it would appear that it was attracted by the croaking of the frogs.

"In addition to the larger animals, tigers eat reptiles and frogs they find in the rice fields. On the night of April 22, 1914, a group of frog catchers was coming back from a hunt when the man carrying the load of frogs was attacked and killed by a tiger. The tiger didn't try to drag the man away, and it seems that it was drawn in by the croaking of the frogs."

"One often finds trees 'marked' by tigers beside some - 53 - trail or path in, or adjacent to, a lair. Catlike, the tiger measures its full length upon a tree, standing in a convenient place, and with its powerful claws rips deeply through the bark. This sign is doubly interesting to the sportsman as it not only indicates the presence of a tiger in the immediate vicinity but serves to give an accurate idea as to the size of the beast. The trails leading into a lair often are marked in a different way. In doing this the animal rakes away the grass with a forepaw and gathers it into a pile, but claw prints never appear."

"People often notice trees 'marked' by tigers next to some 53 trail or path near a lair. Like a cat, the tiger stretches out its full length on a tree, standing in a good spot, and with its strong claws, it tears deeply into the bark. This sign is particularly interesting to hunters because it not only shows that a tiger is nearby but also gives a clear idea of the animal's size. The trails leading to a lair are sometimes marked differently. In this case, the animal scratches away the grass with a front paw and piles it up, but you won’t see any claw prints."

- 54 -

CHAPTER VII

THE BLUE TIGER

After one has traveled in a Chinese sampan for several days the prospect of a river journey is not very alluring but we had a most agreeable surprise when we sailed out of Foochow in a chartered house boat to hunt the "blue tiger" at Futsing. In fact, we had all the luxury of a private yacht, for our boat contained a large central cabin with a table and chairs and two staterooms and was manned by a captain and crew of six men—all for $1.50 per day!

After spending several days on a Chinese sampan, a river journey doesn’t sound very tempting, but we had a delightful surprise when we set off from Foochow in a rented houseboat to search for the "blue tiger" at Futsing. In truth, we enjoyed all the comforts of a private yacht, as our boat featured a spacious central cabin with a table and chairs, two staterooms, and was crewed by a captain and six men—all for just $1.50 a day!

In the evening we talked of the blue tiger for a long time before we spread our beds on the roof of the boat and went to sleep under the stars. We left the boat shortly after daylight at Daing-nei for the six-mile walk to Lung-tao. To my great surprise the coolies were considerably distressed at the lightness of our loads. In this region they are paid by weight and some of the bearers carry almost incredible burdens. As an example, one of our men came into camp swinging a 125-pound trunk on each end of his pole, laughing and chatting as gayly as though he had not been carrying 250 pounds for six miles under a broiling sun.

In the evening, we talked about the blue tiger for a long time before we set up our beds on the roof of the boat and fell asleep under the stars. We left the boat shortly after sunrise at Daing-nei for the six-mile walk to Lung-tao. To my surprise, the coolies were noticeably distressed by the lightness of our loads. In this area, they are paid by weight, and some of the bearers carry astonishingly heavy burdens. For example, one of our men came into camp swinging a 125-pound trunk on each end of his pole, laughing and chatting as if he hadn't just carried 250 pounds for six miles in the scorching sun.

Mr. Caldwell's Chinese hunter, Da-Da, lived at Lung-tao and we found his house to be one of several built on the outskirts of a beautiful grove of gum and banyan trees. Although it was exceptionally clean for a Chinese dwelling, we pitched our tents a short - 55 - distance away. At first we were somewhat doubtful about sleeping outside, but after one night indoors we decided that any risk was preferable to spending another hour in the stifling heat of the house.

Mr. Caldwell's Chinese hunter, Da-Da, lived at Lung-tao, and we found his house to be one of several situated on the edge of a beautiful grove of gum and banyan trees. Although it was remarkably clean for a Chinese home, we set up our tents a little way off. At first, we were a bit hesitant about sleeping outside, but after one night indoors, we decided that any risk was better than enduring another hour in the oppressive heat of the house. - 55 -

It was probable that a tiger would be so suspicious of the white tents that it would not attack us, but nevertheless during the first nights we were rather wakeful and more than once at some strange night sound seized our rifles and flashed the electric lamp into the darkness.

It was likely that a tiger would be too suspicious of the white tents to attack us, but still, during the first nights we were quite restless, and more than once at some strange noise in the night, we grabbed our rifles and shined the flashlight into the darkness.

Tigers often come into this village. Only a few hundred yards from our camp site, in 1911, a tiger had rushed into the house of one of the peasants and attempted to steal a child that had fallen asleep at its play under the family table. All was quiet in the house when suddenly the animal dashed through the open door. The Chinese declare that the gods protected the infant, for the beast missed his prey and seizing the leg of the table against which the baby's head was resting, bolted through the door dragging the table into the courtyard.

Tigers often come into this village. Just a few hundred yards from our campsite, in 1911, a tiger charged into the house of one of the villagers and tried to grab a child who had fallen asleep while playing under the family table. The house was perfectly quiet when suddenly the tiger burst through the open door. The Chinese believe that the gods protected the baby, because the tiger missed its target and instead grabbed the leg of the table where the baby's head was resting, then bolted through the door, dragging the table into the courtyard.

This was the work of the famous "blue tiger" which we had come to hunt and which had on two occasions been seen by Mr. Caldwell. The first time he heard of this strange beast was in the spring of 1910. The animal was reported as having been seen at various places within an area of a few miles almost simultaneously and so mysterious were its movements that the Chinese declared it was a spirit of the devil. After several unsuccessful hunts Mr. Caldwell finally saw the tiger at close range but as he was armed with only a shotgun it would have been useless to shoot.

This was the work of the famous "blue tiger" that we had come to hunt, which Mr. Caldwell had spotted on two occasions. The first time he heard about this unusual creature was in the spring of 1910. The animal was reported to have been seen at different locations within a few miles almost at the same time, and its movements were so mysterious that the Chinese claimed it was a devil's spirit. After several unsuccessful hunts, Mr. Caldwell finally saw the tiger up close, but since he was only armed with a shotgun, shooting it would have been pointless.

His second view of the beast was a few weeks later - 56 - and in the same place. I will give the story in his own words:

His second sighting of the beast was a few weeks later 56 and in the same spot. I’ll share the story in his own words:

"I selected a spot upon a hilltop and cleared away the grass and ferns with a jack-knife for a place to tie the goat. I concealed myself in the bushes ten feet away to await the attack, but the unexpected happened and the tiger approached from the rear.

"I picked a spot on a hilltop and used a jack-knife to clear away the grass and ferns for a place to tie the goat. I hid in the bushes ten feet away to wait for the attack, but something unexpected happened—the tiger came up from behind."

"When I first saw the beast he was moving stealthily along a little trail just across a shallow ravine. I supposed, of course, that he was trying to locate the goat which was bleating loudly, but to my horror I saw that he was creeping upon two boys who had entered the ravine to cut grass. The huge brute moved along lizard-fashion for a few yards and then cautiously lifted his head above the grass. He was within easy springing distance when I raised my rifle, but instantly I realized that if I wounded the animal the boys would certainly meet a horrible death.

"When I first saw the beast, he was stealthily moving along a small path just across a shallow ravine. I thought, of course, that he was trying to locate the goat that was bleating loudly, but to my horror, I realized he was creeping up on two boys who had gone into the ravine to cut grass. The huge brute crawled along like a lizard for a few yards and then carefully lifted his head above the grass. He was within easy jumping distance when I raised my rifle, but I quickly realized that if I wounded him, the boys would definitely face a horrible death."

"Tigers are usually afraid of the human voice so instead of firing I stepped from the bushes, yelling and waving my arms. The huge cat, crouched for a spring, drew back, wavered uncertainly for a moment, and then slowly slipped away into the grass. The boys were saved but I had lost the opportunity I had sought for over a year.

"Tigers are generally scared of human voices, so instead of shooting, I stepped out of the bushes, shouting and waving my arms. The massive cat, crouched to pounce, hesitated for a moment, then slowly disappeared into the grass. The boys were safe, but I lost the opportunity I had been chasing for over a year."

"However, I had again seen the animal about which so many strange tales had been told. The markings of the beast are strikingly beautiful. The ground color is of a delicate shade of maltese, changing into light gray-blue on the underparts. The stripes are well defined and like those of the ordinary yellow tiger."

"However, I had once again encountered the animal that had inspired so many bizarre stories. The markings of the creature are remarkably beautiful. The main color is a soft shade of maltese, transitioning to a light gray-blue on the underside. The stripes are distinct and resemble those of a regular yellow tiger."

Before I left New York Mr. Caldwell had written me repeatedly urging me to stop at Futsing on the way - 57 - to Yün-nan to try with him for the blue tiger which was still in the neighborhood. I was decidedly skeptical as to its being a distinct species, but nevertheless it was a most interesting animal and would certainly be well worth getting.

Before I left New York, Mr. Caldwell had written to me multiple times urging me to stop at Futsing on my way to Yün-nan to look for the blue tiger that was still in the area. I was definitely skeptical about it being a separate species, but still, it was a really interesting animal and would definitely be worth trying to find.

I believed then, and my opinion has since been strengthened, that it is a partially melanistic phase of the ordinary yellow tiger. Black leopards are common in India and the Malay Peninsula and as only a single individual of the blue tiger has been reported the evidence hardly warrants the assumption that it represents a distinct species.

I believed then, and I've since become even more convinced, that it is a partial melanistic phase of the regular yellow tiger. Black leopards are common in India and the Malay Peninsula, and since only one blue tiger has been reported, there's hardly enough evidence to assume it represents a separate species.

We hunted the animal for five weeks. The brute ranged in the vicinity of two or three villages about seven miles apart, but was seen most frequently near Lung-tao. He was as elusive as a will o' the wisp, killing a dog or goat in one village and by the time we had hurried across the mountains appearing in another spot a few miles away, leaving a trail of terrified natives who flocked to our camp to recount his depredations. He was in truth the "Great Invisible" and it seemed impossible that we should not get him sooner or later, but we never did.

We hunted the animal for five weeks. The beast roamed around two or three villages about seven miles apart, but it was seen most often near Lung-tao. It was as elusive as a ghost, killing a dog or goat in one village and by the time we rushed across the mountains, it would show up in another place a few miles away, leaving a trail of scared locals who rushed to our camp to share stories of its attacks. It was truly the "Great Invisible," and it felt impossible that we wouldn’t catch it eventually, but we never did.

Once we missed him by a hair's breadth through sheer bad luck, and it was only by exercising almost super-human restraint that we prevented ourselves from doing bodily harm to the three Chinese who ruined our hunt. Every evening for a week we had faithfully taken a goat into the "Long Ravine," for the blue tiger had been seen several times near this lair. On the eighth afternoon we were in the "blind" at three o'clock as usual. We had tied a goat to a tree nearby and her two kids were but a few feet away.

Once we almost caught him purely by bad luck, and it was only by showing almost super-human self-control that we stopped ourselves from hurting the three Chinese who messed up our hunt. Every evening for a week, we brought a goat into the "Long Ravine" because the blue tiger had been spotted several times near this spot. On the eighth afternoon, we were in the "blind" at three o'clock like usual. We had tied a goat to a nearby tree, and her two kids were only a few feet away.

- 58 -

The grass-filled lair lay shimmering in the breathless heat, silent save for the echoes of the bleating goats. Crouched behind the screen of branches, for three long hours we sat in the patchwork shade,—motionless, dripping with perspiration, hardly breathing,—and watched the shadows steal slowly down the narrow ravine.

The grass-filled hideout shimmered in the sweltering heat, quiet except for the sounds of the bleating goats. Crouched behind a curtain of branches, we sat in the dappled shade for three long hours—motionless, sweating, barely breathing—and watched the shadows gradually creep down the narrow ravine.

It was a wild place which seemed to have been cut out of the mountain side with two strokes of a mighty ax and was choked with a tangle of thorny vines and sword grass. Impenetrable as a wall of steel, the only entrance was by the tiger tunnels which drove their twisting way through the murderous growth far in toward its gloomy heart.

It was a wild place that looked like it had been carved out of the mountainside with a couple of powerful swings of an axe, and it was overrun with a mess of thorny vines and tough grass. As solid as a wall of steel, the only way in was through the twisting tiger tunnels that snaked deep into its dark core.

The shadows had passed over us and just reached a lone palm tree on the opposite hillside. By that I knew it was six o'clock and in half an hour another day of disappointment would be ended. Suddenly at the left and just below us there came the faintest crunching sound as a loose stone shifted under a heavy weight; then a rustling in the grass. Instantly the captive goat gave a shrill bleat of terror and tugged frantically at the rope which held it to the tree.

The shadows had moved past us and just reached a single palm tree on the opposite hillside. That told me it was six o'clock, and in half an hour, another day of disappointment would come to an end. Suddenly, to our left and just below us, there was the faintest crunching sound as a loose stone shifted under a heavy weight; then came a rustling in the grass. Instantly, the captive goat let out a sharp bleat of fear and tugged desperately at the rope that tied it to the tree.

At the first sound Harry had breathed in my ear "Get ready, he's coming." I was half kneeling with my heavy .405 Winchester pushed forward and the hammer up. The blood drummed in my ears and my neck muscles ached with the strain but I thanked Heaven that my hands were steady.

At the first sound Harry whispered in my ear, "Get ready, he's coming." I was half-kneeling with my heavy .405 Winchester pushed forward and the hammer back. The blood pounded in my ears and my neck muscles ached from the tension, but I was grateful that my hands were steady.

Caldwell sat like a graven image, the stock of his little 22 caliber high power Savage nestling against his cheek. Our eyes met for an instant and I knew in that glance that the blue tiger would never make another - 59 - charge, for if I missed him, Harry wouldn't. For ten minutes we waited and my heart lost a beat when twenty feet away the grass began to move again—but rapidly and up the ravine.

Caldwell sat like a statue, the stock of his small .22 caliber high-power Savage pressed against his cheek. Our eyes locked for a moment, and I realized with that look that the blue tiger would never charge again, because if I missed, Harry wouldn’t. We waited for ten minutes, and my heart skipped a beat when the grass started to move again just twenty feet away—but quickly and up the ravine.

I saw Harry watching the lair with a puzzled look which changed to one of disgust as a chorus of yells sounded across the ravine and three Chinese wood cutters appeared on the opposite slope. They were taking a short cut home, shouting to drive away the tigers—and they had succeeded only too well, for the blue tiger had slipped back to the heart of the lair from whence he had come.

I saw Harry watching the lair with a confused expression that turned to disgust as a chorus of yells echoed across the ravine and three Chinese woodcutters appeared on the opposite slope. They were taking a shortcut home, shouting to scare off the tigers—and they had done their job a bit too well, because the blue tiger had slipped back into the heart of the lair from where it had come.

He had been nearly ours and again we had lost him! I felt so badly that I could not even swear and it wasn't the fact that Harry was a missionary which kept me from it, either. Caldwell exclaimed just once, for his disappointment was even more bitter than mine; he had been hunting this same tiger off and on for six years.

He was almost ours, and once again we lost him! I felt so awful that I couldn't even curse, and it wasn't just because Harry was a missionary that held me back. Caldwell only exclaimed once because his disappointment was even stronger than mine; he had been chasing this same tiger on and off for six years.

It was useless for us to wait longer that evening and we pushed our way through the sword grass to the entrance of the tunnel down which the tiger had come. There in the soft earth were the great footprints where he had crouched at the entrance to take a cautious survey before charging into the open.

It was pointless for us to wait any longer that evening, so we made our way through the tall grass to the entrance of the tunnel where the tiger had come from. There, in the soft earth, were the huge footprints where he had crouched at the entrance to carefully assess the area before rushing into the open.

As we looked, Harry suddenly turned to me and said: "Roy, let's go into the lair. There is just one chance in a thousand that we may get a shot." Now I must admit that I was not very enthusiastic about that little excursion, but in we went, crawling on our hands and knees up the narrow passage. Every few feet we passed side branches from the main tunnel in any one of which the tiger might easily have been lying in wait and could have killed us as we passed. It was a foolhardy - 60 - thing to do and I am free to admit that I was scared. It was not long before Harry twisted about and said: "Roy, I haven't lost any tigers in here; let's get out." And out we came faster than we went in.

As we were observing, Harry suddenly turned to me and said: "Roy, let's go into the lair. There's just one chance in a thousand that we might get a shot." I have to admit that I wasn't very excited about that little adventure, but we crawled in on our hands and knees through the narrow passage. Every few feet, we passed side branches off the main tunnel where a tiger could have easily been lying in wait and could have killed us as we went by. It was a reckless thing to do, and I’m not ashamed to say I was scared. It didn't take long before Harry turned around and said: "Roy, I haven't lost any tigers in here; let’s get out." And we got out faster than we had gone in. - 60 -

This was only one of the times when the "Great Invisible" was almost in our hands. A few days later a Chinese found the blue tiger asleep under a rice bank early in the afternoon. Frightened almost to death he ran a mile and a half to our camp only to find that we had left half an hour before for another village where the brute had killed two wild cats early in the morning.

This was just one of the times when the "Great Invisible" was nearly ours. A few days later, a Chinese man discovered the blue tiger sleeping under a rice bank in the early afternoon. Terrified, he ran a mile and a half to our camp, only to find that we had left half an hour earlier for another village where the beast had killed two wild cats that morning.

Again, the tiger pushed open the door of a house at daybreak just as the members of the family were getting up, stole a dog from the "heaven's well," dragged it to a hillside and partly devoured it. We were in camp only a mile away and our Chinese hunters found the carcass on a narrow ledge in the sword grass high up on the mountain side. The spot was an impossible one to watch and we set a huge grizzly bear trap which had been carried with us from New York.

Again, the tiger pushed open the door of a house at dawn just as the family members were waking up, grabbed a dog from the "heaven's well," dragged it to a hillside, and partially devoured it. We were camping just a mile away, and our Chinese hunters found the carcass on a narrow ledge in the sword grass high up on the mountainside. The spot was impossible to monitor, so we set up a large grizzly bear trap that we had brought with us from New York.

It seemed out of the question for any animal to return to the carcass of the dog without getting caught and yet the tiger did it. With his hind quarters on the upper terrace he dropped down, stretched his long neck across the trap, seized the dog which had been wired to a tree and pulled it away. It was evident that he was quite unconscious of the trap for his fore feet had actually been placed upon one of the jaws only two inches from the pan which would have sprung it.

It seemed impossible for any animal to go back to the dog's carcass without getting caught, yet the tiger managed to do it. With his back legs on the upper terrace, he lowered himself down, stretched his long neck across the trap, grabbed the dog that was wired to a tree, and pulled it away. It was clear that he was completely unaware of the trap, as his front feet had actually been resting on one of the jaws just two inches away from the pan that would have triggered it.

One afternoon we responded to a call from Bui-tao, a village seven miles beyond Lung-tao, where the blue tiger had been seen that day. The natives assured us - 61 - that the animal continually crossed a hill, thickly clothed with pines and sword grass just above the village and even though it was late when we arrived Harry thought it wise to set the trap that night.

One afternoon, we got a call from Bui-tao, a village seven miles past Lung-tao, where the blue tiger had been spotted that day. The locals told us that the animal kept crossing a hill, densely covered with pine trees and sword grass just above the village. Even though it was late when we got there, Harry thought it was smart to set the trap that night. - 61 -

It was pitch dark before we reached the ridge carrying the trap, two lanterns, an electric flash-lamp and a wretched little dog for bait. We had been engaged for about fifteen minutes making a pen for the dog, and Caldwell and I were on our knees over the trap when suddenly a low rumbling growl came from the grass not twenty feet away. We jumped to our feet just as it sounded again, this time ending in a snarl. The tiger had arrived a few moments too early and we were in the rather uncomfortable position of having to return to the village by way of a narrow trail through the jungle. With our rifles ready and the electric lamp cutting a brilliant path in the darkness we walked slowly toward the edge of the sword grass hoping to see the flash of the tiger's eyes, but the beast backed off beyond the range of the light into an impenetrable tangle where we could not follow. Apparently he was frightened by the lantern, for we did not hear him again.

It was pitch dark before we reached the ridge carrying the trap, two lanterns, an electric flashlight, and a tiny little dog for bait. We had been working for about fifteen minutes setting up a pen for the dog, and Caldwell and I were kneeling over the trap when suddenly a low rumbling growl came from the grass not twenty feet away. We jumped to our feet just as it growled again, this time ending in a snarl. The tiger had arrived a few moments too early, and we found ourselves in the awkward position of having to return to the village via a narrow trail through the jungle. With our rifles ready and the flashlight cutting a bright path in the darkness, we walked slowly toward the edge of the sword grass, hoping to spot the flash of the tiger's eyes, but the beast backed off beyond the range of the light into a dense tangle where we couldn’t follow. Apparently, he was spooked by the lantern, as we didn’t hear him again.

After nearly a month of disappointments such as these Mr. Heller joined us at Bui-tao with Mr. Kellogg. Caldwell thought it advisable to shift camp to the Ling-suik monastery, about twelve miles away, where he had once spent a summer with his family and had killed several tigers. This was within the blue tiger's range and, moreover, had the advantage of offering a better general collecting ground than Bui-tao; thus with Heller to look after the small mammals we could begin to make our time count for something if we did not get the tiger.

After almost a month of disappointments like these, Mr. Heller joined us at Bui-tao with Mr. Kellogg. Caldwell thought it was a good idea to move our camp to the Ling-suik monastery, about twelve miles away, where he had spent a summer with his family and had killed several tigers. This was within the blue tiger's territory and offered better overall opportunities for collecting than Bui-tao; so with Heller taking care of the small mammals, we could start making our time worthwhile even if we didn't manage to get the tiger.

- 62 -

Ling-suik is a beautiful temple, or rather series of temples, built into a hillside at the end of a long narrow valley which swells out like a great bowl between bamboo clothed mountains, two thousand feet in height. On his former visit Mr. Caldwell had made friends with the head priest and we were allowed to establish ourselves upon the broad porch of the third and highest building. It was an ideal place for a collecting camp and would have been delightful except for the terrible heat which was rendered doubly disagreeable by the almost continual rain.

Ling-suik is a stunning temple complex built into a hillside at the end of a long, narrow valley that opens up like a giant bowl between mountains covered in bamboo, rising two thousand feet high. During his previous visit, Mr. Caldwell had become friends with the head priest, and we were allowed to set up camp on the spacious porch of the third and tallest building. It was the perfect spot for a collecting camp and would have been lovely if it weren't for the intense heat, which was made even worse by the nearly constant rain.

The priests who shuffled about the temples were a hard lot. Most of them were fugitives from justice and certainly looked the part, for a more disreputable, diseased and generally undesirable body of men I have never seen.

The priests who wandered around the temples were a rough crowd. Most of them were on the run from the law and definitely looked the part; I've never seen a more disreputable, unhealthy, and generally unwanted group of men.

Our stay at Ling-suik was productive and the temple life interesting. We slept on the porch and each morning, about half an hour before daylight, the measured strokes of a great gong sounded from the temple just below us. Boom—boom—boom—boom it went, then rapidly bang, bang, bang. It was a religious alarm clock to rouse the world.

Our time at Ling-suik was productive, and temple life was fascinating. We slept on the porch, and each morning, about thirty minutes before dawn, the steady beats of a large gong echoed from the temple just below us. Boom—boom—boom—boom it went, followed quickly by bang, bang, bang. It was a religious alarm clock to wake everyone up.

A little later when the upturned gables and twisted dolphins on the roof had begun to take definite shape in the gray light of the new day, the gong boomed out again, doors creaked, and from their cell-like rooms shuffled the priests to yawn and stretch themselves before the early service. The droning chorus of hoarse voices, swelling in a meaningless half-wild chant, harmonized strangely with the romantic surroundings of the temple and become our daily matin and evensong.

A little later, when the sloped rooftops and curved dolphins started to form clearly in the gray light of the new day, the gong rang out again, doors creaked, and the priests shuffled out of their small, cell-like rooms to yawn and stretch before the early service. The droning chorus of rough voices, rising in a half-wild chant that didn’t really mean anything, strangely harmonized with the picturesque surroundings of the temple and became our daily morning and evening song.

The Ling-suik Monastery

A Ling-suik Priest

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At the first gong we slipped from beneath our mosquito nets and dressed to be ready for the bats which fluttered into the building to hide themselves beneath the tiles and rafters. When daylight had fully come we scattered to the four winds of heaven to inspect traps, hunt barking deer, or collect birds, but gathered again at nine o'clock for breakfast and to deposit our spoil. Caldwell and I always spent the afternoon at the blue tiger's lair but the animal had suddenly shifted his operations back to Lung-tao and did not appear at Ling-suik while we were there.

At the first gong, we crawled out from under our mosquito nets and got ready for the bats that swooped into the building to hide under the tiles and rafters. Once daylight fully arrived, we scattered in all directions to check traps, hunt barking deer, or collect birds, but we regrouped at nine o'clock for breakfast and to show off our catches. Caldwell and I usually spent the afternoon at the blue tiger's den, but the animal had unexpectedly moved back to Lung-tao and didn’t show up at Ling-suik while we were there.

Our work in Fukien taught us much that may be of help to other naturalists who contemplate a visit to this province. We satisfied ourselves that summer collecting is impracticable, for the heat is so intense and the vegetation so heavy that only meager results can be obtained for the efforts expended. Continual tramping over the mountains in the blazing sun necessarily must have its effect upon the strongest constitution, and even a man like Mr. Caldwell, who has become thoroughly acclimated, is not immune.

Our experience in Fukien taught us a lot that could benefit other naturalists considering a trip to this province. We confirmed that collecting in the summer is not feasible, as the heat is extreme and the thick vegetation yields only poor results for the effort put in. Constant hiking over the mountains in the scorching sun will inevitably take a toll on even the strongest body, and even someone like Mr. Caldwell, who has fully adapted to the climate, is not exempt.

Both Caldwell and I lost from fifteen to twenty pounds in weight during the time we hunted the blue tiger and each of us had serious trouble from abscesses. I have never worked in a more trying climate—even that of Borneo and the Dutch East Indies where I collected in 1909-10, was much less debilitating than Fukien in the summer. The average temperature was about 95 degrees in the shade, but the humidity was so high that one felt as though one were wrapped in a wet blanket and even during a six weeks' rainless period the air was saturated with moisture from the sea-winds.

Both Caldwell and I lost between fifteen and twenty pounds while we were hunting the blue tiger, and both of us had serious issues with abscesses. I’ve never worked in a more challenging climate—even that of Borneo and the Dutch East Indies, where I collected in 1909-10, was much less exhausting than Fukien in the summer. The average temperature was around 95 degrees in the shade, but the humidity was so high that it felt like being wrapped in a wet blanket, and even during a six-week dry spell, the air was saturated with moisture from the sea winds.

In winter the weather is raw and damp, but collecting - 64 - then would be vastly easier than in summer, not only on account of climatic conditions, but because much of the vegetation disappears and there is an opportunity for "still hunting."

In winter, the weather is chilly and wet, but gathering then would be much easier than in summer, not just because of the weather but also because a lot of the plants die back, allowing for "still hunting." - 64 -

Trapping for small mammal is especially difficult because of the dense population. The mud dykes and the rice fields usually are covered with tracks of civets, mongooses, and cats which come to hunt frogs or fish, but if a trap is set it either catches a Chinaman or promptly is stolen. Moreover, the small mammals are neither abundant nor varied in number of species, and the larger forms, such as tiger, leopard, wild pig and serow are exceedingly difficult to kill.

Trapping small mammals is particularly challenging due to the high population density. The mud dykes and rice fields are often covered with tracks from civets, mongooses, and cats that come to hunt frogs or fish. However, when a trap is set, it either catches a person or gets stolen right away. Additionally, small mammals are neither plentiful nor diverse in species, and larger animals like tigers, leopards, wild pigs, and serows are extremely hard to hunt.

While our work in the province was done during an unfavorable season and in only two localities, yet enough was seen of the general conditions to make it certain that a thorough zoölogical study of the region would require considerable time and hard work and that the results, so far as a large collection of mammals is concerned, would not be highly satisfactory. Work in the western part of the province among the Bohea Hills undoubtedly would be more profitable, but even there it would be hardly worth while for an expedition with limited time and money.

While we conducted our work in the province during a difficult season and in only two locations, we saw enough of the overall conditions to know that a thorough zoological study of the area would take a significant amount of time and effort, and the outcomes—especially regarding a large collection of mammals—would likely not be very satisfactory. Conducting research in the western part of the province, particularly among the Bohea Hills, would certainly be more rewarding, but even there, it wouldn't be worthwhile for an expedition with limited time and resources.

Bird life is on a much better footing, but the ornithology of Fukien already has received considerable attention through the collections of Swinhoe, La Touche, Styan, Ricketts, Caldwell and others, and probably not a great number of species remain to be described.

Bird life is in a much better place now, but the study of birds in Fukien has already gotten a lot of attention thanks to the collections of Swinhoe, La Touche, Styan, Ricketts, Caldwell, and others. It’s likely that not many more species are left to be described.

Much work could still be done upon the herpetology of the region, however, and I believe that this branch of zoölogy would be well worth investigation for reptiles - 65 - and batrachians are fairly abundant and the natives would rather assist than retard one's efforts.

Much work could still be done on the herpetology of the region, though, and I think this area of zoology would be worth investigating since reptiles and amphibians are quite abundant, and the locals would prefer to help rather than hinder your efforts. - 65 -

The language of Fukien is a greater annoyance than in any other of the Chinese coast provinces. The Foochow dialect (which is one of the most difficult to learn) is spoken only within fifty or one hundred miles of the city. At Yen-ping Mr. Caldwell, who speaks "Foochow" perfectly, could not understand a word of the "southern mandarin" which is the language of that region, and near Futsing, where a colony of natives from Amoy have settled, the dialect is unintelligible to one who knows only "Foochow."

The language spoken in Fukien is more frustrating than in any other Chinese coastal province. The Foochow dialect, which is one of the hardest to learn, is only spoken within fifty to a hundred miles of the city. In Yen-ping, Mr. Caldwell, who speaks Foochow flawlessly, couldn't make sense of the "southern mandarin," the local language of that area. And near Futsing, where a group of people from Amoy has settled, the dialect is completely incomprehensible to anyone who only knows Foochow.

Travel in Fukien is an unceasing trial, for transport is entirely by coolies who carry from eighty to one hundred pounds. The men are paid by distance or weight; therefore, when coolies finally have been obtained there is the inevitable wrangling over loads so that from one to two hours are consumed before the party can start.

Travel in Fukien is a constant challenge, since transportation relies completely on coolies who carry between eighty to one hundred pounds. The men are paid based on distance or weight; as a result, when coolies are finally secured, there's bound to be arguments over the loads, causing delays of one to two hours before the group can set off.

But the worst of it is that one can never be certain when one's entire outfit will arrive at its new destination. Some men walk much faster than others, some will delay a long time for tea, or may give out altogether if the day be hot, with the result that the last load will arrive perhaps five or six hours after the first one.

But the worst part is that you can never be sure when your whole outfit will reach its new destination. Some guys walk way faster than others, some take a long break for tea, or might even quit if it’s a hot day, leading to the last load arriving maybe five or six hours after the first one.

As horses are not to be had, if one does not walk the only alternative is to be carried in a mountain chair, which is an uncomfortable, trapeze-like affair and only to be found along the main highways. On the whole, transport by man-power in China is so uncertain and expensive that for a large expedition it forms a grave obstacle to successful work, if time and funds be limited.

As there are no horses available, if you don’t walk, your only option is to be carried in a mountain chair, which is an uncomfortable, swinging contraption and can only be found along the main roads. Overall, transportation by manpower in China is so unpredictable and costly that for a large expedition, it poses a serious challenge to getting things done, especially if time and funds are tight.

On the other hand, servants are cheap and usually - 66 - good. We employed a very fair cook who received monthly seven dollars Mexican (then about three and one-half dollars gold), and "boys" were hired at from five to seven dollars (Mexican). As none of the servants knew English they could be obtained at much lower wages, but English-speaking cooks usually receive from fifteen to twenty dollars (Mexican) a month.

On the other hand, servants are inexpensive and typically reliable. We hired a decent cook who was paid seven Mexican dollars a month (which was around three and a half gold dollars back then), and "boys" were hired for five to seven dollars (Mexican). Since none of the servants spoke English, we could pay them much lower wages, but cooks who knew English usually earned between fifteen to twenty Mexican dollars a month.

It was hard to leave Fukien without the blue tiger but we had hunted him unsuccessfully for five weeks and there was other and more important work awaiting us in Yün-nan. It required thirty porters to transport our baggage from the Ling-suik monastery to Daing-nei, twenty-one miles away, where two houseboats were to meet us, and by ten o'clock in the evening we were lying off Pagoda Anchorage awaiting the flood tide to take us to Foochow. We made our beds on the deck house and in the morning opened our eyes to find the boat tied to the wharf at the Custom House on the Bund, and ourselves in full view of all Foochow had it been awake at that hour.

It was tough to leave Fukien without the blue tiger, but we had been hunting him unsuccessfully for five weeks, and there was other, more important work waiting for us in Yün-nan. We needed thirty porters to carry our baggage from the Ling-suik monastery to Daing-nei, twenty-one miles away, where two houseboats were supposed to meet us. By ten o'clock in the evening, we were anchored off Pagoda Anchorage, waiting for the flood tide to take us to Foochow. We set up our beds on the deck house, and in the morning, we opened our eyes to find the boat tied to the wharf at the Custom House on the Bund, with ourselves in full view of all Foochow, if it had been awake at that hour.

The week of packing and repacking that followed was made easy for us by Claude Kellogg, who acted as our ministering angel. I think there must be a special Providence that watches over wandering naturalists and directs them to such men as Kellogg, for without divine aid they could never be found. When we last saw him, he stood on the stone steps of the water front waving his hat as we slipped away on the tide, to board the S. S. Haitan for Hongkong.

The week of packing and repacking that followed was made easier for us by Claude Kellogg, who was like a guardian angel. I believe there's a special kind of luck that looks out for wandering naturalists and leads them to people like Kellogg, because without some kind of divine help, they'd never find someone like him. When we last saw him, he was standing on the stone steps by the waterfront, waving his hat as we drifted away on the tide to board the S. S. Haitan for Hong Kong.

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CHAPTER VIII

THE WOMEN OF CHINA

Chinese Women

Y. B. A.

Y.B.A.

The schools for native girls at Foochow and Yen-ping interested us greatly, even when we first came to China, but we could not appreciate then as we did later the epoch-making step toward civilization of these institutions.

The schools for native girls in Foochow and Yen-ping caught our attention even when we first arrived in China, but we couldn't fully understand at that time, as we did later, the groundbreaking progress toward civilization that these institutions represented.

How much the missionaries are able to accomplish from a religious standpoint is a question which we do not wish to discuss, but no one who has ever lived among them can deny that the opening of schools and the diffusing of western knowledge are potent factors in the development of the people. The Chinese were not slow even in the beginning to see the advantages of a foreign education for their boys and now, along the coast at least, some are beginning to make sacrifices for their daughters as well. The Woman's College, which was opened recently in Foochow, is one of the finest buildings of the Republic, and when one sees its bright-faced girls dressed in their quaint little pajama-like garments, it is difficult to realize that outside such schools they are still slaves in mind and body to those iron rules of Confucius which have molded the entire structure of Chinese society for over 2400 years.

How much the missionaries are able to achieve from a religious perspective is a topic we don't want to discuss, but nobody who has lived among them can deny that opening schools and spreading Western knowledge are powerful factors in the development of the people. The Chinese were quick to recognize the benefits of foreign education for their boys from the start, and now, at least along the coast, some are starting to make sacrifices for their daughters as well. The Woman's College, which recently opened in Foochow, is one of the finest buildings in the Republic, and when you see its bright-faced girls dressed in their unique pajama-like outfits, it's hard to believe that outside such schools they are still bound mentally and physically by the strict rules of Confucius, which have shaped the entire structure of Chinese society for over 2400 years.

The position of women in China today, and the rules which govern the household of every orthodox Chinese, - 68 - are the direct heritage of Confucianism. The following translation by Professor J. Legge from the Narratives of the Confucian School, chapter 26, is illuminating:

The role of women in China today, and the rules that govern the household of every traditional Chinese person, 68 are a direct legacy of Confucianism. The following translation by Professor J. Legge from the Narratives of the Confucian School, chapter 26, is enlightening:

Confucius said: "Man is the representative of heaven and is supreme over all things. Woman yields obedience to the instructions of man and helps to carry out his principles. On this account she can determine nothing of herself and is subject to the rule of the three obediences.

Confucius said: "A man represents heaven and is in charge of everything. A woman follows the guidance of a man and helps implement his ideas. Because of this, she cannot make decisions on her own and must adhere to the rule of the three obediences."

"(1) When young she must obey her father and her elder brother;

"(1) When she was young, she had to listen to her father and older brother;

"(2) When married, she must obey her husband;

"(2) When married, she must follow her husband's wishes;

"(3) When her husband is dead she must obey her son.

"(3) When her husband dies, she has to obey her son."

"She may not think of marrying a second time. No instructions or orders must issue from the harem. Women's business is simply the preparation and supplying of drink and food. Beyond the threshold of her apartments she shall not be known for evil or for good. She may not cross the boundaries of a state to attend a funeral. She may take no steps on her own motive and may come to no conclusion on her own deliberation."

"She might not consider getting married again. No commands or directives should come from the harem. Women's responsibilities are just to prepare and provide food and drinks. Outside of her living quarters, she should not be recognized for anything bad or good. She cannot leave the state to go to a funeral. She cannot act on her own initiative or reach any conclusions based on her own thoughts."

The grounds for divorce as stated by Confucius are:

The reasons for divorce according to Confucius are:

"(1) Disobedience to her husband's parents;

"(1) Not following her husband's parents;

"(2) Not giving birth to a son;

"Not having a son;"

"(3) Dissolute conduct;

"Promiscuous behavior;"

"(4) Jealousy of her husband's attentions (to the other inmates of his harem);

"(4) Jealousy of her husband's attention to the other members of his harem;

"(5) Talkativeness, and

"Talkativeness, and"

"(6) Thieving."

"Stealing."

A Chinese bride owes implicit obedience to her mother-in-law, and as she is often reared by her husband's family, or else married to him as a mere child, - 69 - and is under the complete control of his mother for a considerable period of her existence, her life in many instances is one of intolerable misery. There is generally little or no consideration for a girl under the best of circumstances until she becomes the mother of a male child; her condition then improves but she approaches happiness only when she in turn occupies the enviable position of mother-in-law.

A Chinese bride is expected to be completely obedient to her mother-in-law, and since she is often raised by her husband’s family or married off at a young age, she is under her mother-in-law's control for a large part of her life, which often leads to unbearable misery. Usually, a girl gets little to no respect unless she becomes the mother of a son; her situation improves then, but she truly finds happiness only when she herself becomes a mother-in-law. 69

It is difficult to imagine a life of greater dreariness and vacuity than that of the average Chinese woman. Owing to her bound feet and resultant helplessness, if she is not obliged to work she rarely stirs from the narrow confinement of her courtyard, and perhaps in her entire life she may not go a mile from the house to which she was brought a bride, except for the periodical visits to her father's home.

It’s hard to picture a life more dull and empty than that of the average Chinese woman. Because of her bound feet and the resulting helplessness, if she doesn’t have to work, she hardly ever leaves the small space of her courtyard, and throughout her life, she might not travel more than a mile from the home where she became a bride, except for occasional visits to her father’s house.

It has been aptly said that there are no real homes in China and it is not surprising that, ignored and despised for centuries, the Chinese woman shows no ability to improve the squalor of her surroundings. She passes her life in a dark, smoke-filled dwelling with broken furniture and a mud floor, together with pigs, chickens and babies enjoying a limited sphere of action under the tables and chairs, or in the tumble-down courtyard without. Her work is actually never done and a Chinese bride, bright and attractive at twenty, will be old and faded at thirty.

It’s been rightly said that there are no real homes in China, and it’s not surprising that, having been ignored and looked down upon for centuries, the Chinese woman shows no ability to improve her miserable surroundings. She lives her life in a dark, smoke-filled room with broken furniture and a mud floor, alongside pigs, chickens, and babies who have limited space to move under the tables and chairs, or in the rundown courtyard outside. Her work is never truly finished, and a Chinese bride, vibrant and beautiful at twenty, will appear worn out and faded by thirty.

But without doubt the crowning evil which attends woman's condition in China is foot binding, and nothing can be offered in extenuation of this abominable custom. It is said to have originated one thousand years before the Christian era and has persisted until the present day in spite of the efforts directed against it. The - 70 - Empress Dowager issued edicts strongly advising its discontinuation, the "Natural Foot Society," which was formed about fifteen years ago, has endeavored to educate public opinion, and the missionaries refuse to admit girls so mutilated to their schools; but nevertheless the reform has made little progress beyond the coast cities. "Precedent" and the fear of not obtaining suitable husbands for their daughters are responsible for the continuation of the evil, and it is estimated that there are still about seventy-four millions of girls and women who are crippled in this way.

But without a doubt, the biggest issue for women in China is foot binding, and nothing can justify this horrible practice. It's believed to have started over a thousand years before Christ and has continued to this day despite efforts to stop it. The Empress Dowager issued strong statements recommending its end, the "Natural Foot Society," created about fifteen years ago, has tried to change public opinion, and missionaries won't accept girls with bound feet into their schools; yet, reforms have made little progress beyond coastal cities. The tradition and fear of not finding suitable husbands for their daughters keep this practice alive, and it’s estimated that around seventy-four million girls and women are still affected by it.

The feet are bandaged between the ages of five and seven. The toes are bent under the sole of the foot and after two or three years the heel and instep are so forced together that a dollar can be placed in the cleft; gradually also the lower limbs shrink away until only the bones remain.

The feet are wrapped up between the ages of five and seven. The toes are curled under the sole of the foot, and after two or three years, the heel and arch are pressed together so tightly that a dollar can fit in the gap; over time, the lower legs also become thinner until only the bones are left.

The suffering of the children is intense. We often passed through streets full of laughing boys and tiny girls where others, a few years older, were sitting on the doorsteps or curbstones holding their tortured feet and crying bitterly. In some instances out-houses are constructed a considerable distance from the family dwelling where the girls must sleep during their first crippled years in order that their moans may not disturb the other members of the family. The child's only relief is to hang her feet over the edge of the bed in order to stop the circulation and induce numbness, or to seek oblivion from opium.

The suffering of the children is intense. We often walked through streets filled with laughing boys and little girls, where others, a few years older, sat on the doorsteps or curbs, holding their aching feet and crying bitterly. In some cases, the outhouses are built far from the family home so that the girls must sleep there during their early years of hardship, so their moans won’t disturb the rest of the family. The child's only relief comes from hanging her feet over the edge of the bed to stop the circulation and induce numbness, or from seeking escape through opium.

If the custom were a fad which affected only the wealthy classes it would be reprehensible enough, but it curses rich and poor alike, and almost every day we saw heavily laden coolie women steadying themselves by means of a staff, hobbling stiff-kneed along the roads or laboring in the fields.

If this custom were just a trend that impacted only the wealthy, it would be bad enough, but it curses both the rich and the poor alike. Almost every day, we would see heavily burdened women carrying loads, using a staff for support, moving slowly with stiff knees along the roads or working in the fields.

A Chinese mom with her kids

Chinese Women of the Labor Class with Bound Feet

- 71 -

Although the agitation against foot binding is undoubtedly making itself felt to a certain extent in the coast provinces, in Yün-nan the horrible practice continues unabated. During the year in which we traveled through a large part of the province, wherever there were Chinese we saw bound feet. And the fact that virtually every girl over eight years old was mutilated in this way is satisfactory evidence that reform ideas have not penetrated to this remote part of the Republic.

Although the movement against foot binding is definitely making an impact in some coastal areas, the terrible practice still continues in Yün-nan. During the year we traveled through much of the province, we saw bound feet wherever there were Chinese people. The reality that almost every girl over eight years old was mutilated in this way clearly shows that reform ideas haven't reached this remote part of the Republic.

I know of nothing which so rouses one's indignation because of its senselessness and brutality, and China can never hope to take her place among civilized nations until she has abandoned this barbarous custom and liberated her women from their infamous subjection.

I know of nothing that stirs such anger due to its pointless cruelty, and China can never expect to be seen as a civilized nation until it gets rid of this brutal tradition and frees its women from their terrible oppression.

There has been much criticism of foreign education because the girls who have had its advantages absorb western ideas so completely that they dislike to return to their homes where the ordinary conditions of a Chinese household exist. Nevertheless, if the women of China are ever to be emancipated it must come through their own education as well as that of the men.

There has been a lot of criticism of foreign education because the girls who benefit from it embrace western ideas so fully that they don't want to go back to their homes where traditional Chinese household conditions prevail. However, if the women of China are ever going to gain freedom, it has to come from their own education as well as that of the men.

One of the first results of foreign influence is to delay marriage, and in some instances the early betrothal with its attendant miseries. The evil which results from this custom can hardly be overestimated. It happens not infrequently that two children are betrothed in infancy, the respective families being in like circumstances at the time. The opportunity perhaps is offered to the girl to attend school and she may even go through college, but an inexorable custom brings her back to her parents' home, forces her to submit to the engagement made in - 72 - babyhood and perhaps ruins her life through marriage with a man of no higher social status or intelligence than a coolie.

One of the first effects of foreign influence is to postpone marriage, and sometimes even early engagement that brings its own struggles. The negative impact of this practice is hard to exaggerate. It's not uncommon for two children to be promised to each other in infancy, with their families being in similar situations at that time. The girl might get the chance to go to school and even graduate from college, but an unyielding tradition forces her back to her parents' home, making her adhere to the engagement made when she was a baby, and potentially ruining her life by marrying a man with no greater social standing or intellect than a laborer.

Among the few girls imbued with western civilization a spirit of revolt is slowly growing, and while it is impossible for them to break down the barriers of ages, yet in many instances they waive aside what would seem an unsurmountable precedent and insist upon having some voice in the choosing of their husbands.

Among the few girls influenced by Western culture, a sense of rebellion is slowly emerging. While it may be impossible for them to dismantle centuries-old barriers, in many cases, they are setting aside what seems like an insurmountable precedent and insisting on having a say in choosing their husbands.

While in Yen-ping we were invited to attend the semi-foreign wedding of a girl who had been brought up in the Woman's School and who was qualified to be a "Bible Woman" or native Christian teacher. It was whispered that she had actually met her betrothed on several occasions, but on their wedding day no trace of recognition was visible, and the marriage was performed with all the punctilious Chinese observances compatible with a Christian ceremony.

While we were in Yen-ping, we got invited to a semi-foreign wedding of a girl who had grown up in the Woman's School and was qualified to be a "Bible Woman" or native Christian teacher. It was said that she had met her fiancé a few times, but on their wedding day, there was no sign of recognition, and the marriage took place with all the formal Chinese customs that were compatible with a Christian ceremony.

Precedent required of this little bride, although she might have been radiantly happy at heart, and undoubtedly was, to appear tearful and shrinking and as she was escorted up the aisle by her bridesmaid one might have thought she was being led to slaughter. White is not becoming to the Chinese and besides it is a sign of mourning, so she had chosen pink for her wedding gown and had a brilliant pink veil over her carefully oiled hair.

Precedent demanded that this little bride, even though she might have been truly happy inside, had to look tearful and timid. As she was walked down the aisle by her bridesmaid, it might have seemed like she was being led to her doom. White doesn’t suit the Chinese and is also a sign of mourning, so she chose pink for her wedding dress and wore a bright pink veil over her carefully styled hair.

After the ceremony the bride and bridegroom proceeded downstairs to the joyous strain of the wedding march, but with nothing joyous in their demeanor—in fact they appeared like two wooden images at the reception and endured for over an hour the stares and loud criticism of the guests. He assumed during the ordeal a look of bored indifference while the little bride sat with - 73 - her head bowed on her breast, apparently terror stricken. But once she raised her face and I saw a merry twinkle in her shining black eyes that made me realize that perhaps it wasn't all quite so frightful as she would have us believe. I often wonder what sort of a life she is leading in her far away Chinese courtyard.

After the ceremony, the bride and groom went downstairs to the cheerful sound of the wedding march, but they didn’t seem happy at all. In fact, they looked like two wooden statues at the reception, enduring the stares and loud comments from the guests for over an hour. He wore a bored expression during the whole thing while the little bride sat with her head down, obviously scared. But when she finally lifted her face, I noticed a playful sparkle in her bright black eyes that made me think maybe it wasn't as terrifying as she wanted us to believe. I often wonder what kind of life she is living in her distant Chinese courtyard.

- 74 -

CHAPTER IX

VOYAGING TO YÜN-NAN

Traveling to Yün-Nan

We had a busy week in Hongkong outfitting for our trip to Yün-nan. Hongkong is one of the best cities in the Orient in which to purchase supplies of almost any kind, for not only is the selection excellent, but the best English goods can be had for prices very little in excess of those in London itself.

We had a hectic week in Hong Kong getting ready for our trip to Yün-nan. Hong Kong is one of the top cities in the East for buying supplies of almost any kind, because not only is the selection great, but you can find the best English goods for prices that are only slightly higher than those in London itself.

The system which we used in our commissary was that of the unit food box which has been adopted by most large expeditions. The boxes were packed to weigh seventy pounds each and contained all the necessary staple supplies for three persons for one week; thus only one box needed to be opened at a time, and, moreover, if the party separated for a few days a single box could be taken without the necessity of repacking and with the assurance that sufficient food would be available.

The system we used in our commissary was the unit food box, which has been adopted by most large expeditions. The boxes were packed to weigh seventy pounds each and contained all the essential staple supplies for three people for one week. This way, only one box needed to be opened at a time, and if the group split up for a few days, a single box could be taken without having to repack, ensuring that there would be enough food available.

Our supplies consisted largely of flour, butter, sugar, coffee, milk, bacon, and marmalade, and but little tinned meat, vegetables, or fruit because we were certain to be able to obtain a plentiful supply of such food in the country through which we were expecting to travel.

Our supplies mainly included flour, butter, sugar, coffee, milk, bacon, and marmalade, with very little canned meat, vegetables, or fruit because we were confident that we would be able to find plenty of those foods in the country we expected to travel through.

Our tents were brought from New York and were made of light Egyptian cotton thoroughly waterproof, but we also purchased in Hongkong a large army tent for the servants and two canvas flies to protect loads and specimens. We used sleeping bags and folding cots, tables and chairs, for when an expedition expects to remain - 75 - in the field for a long time it is absolutely necessary to be as comfortable as possible and to live well; otherwise one cannot work at one's highest efficiency.

Our tents were shipped from New York and were made of lightweight Egyptian cotton that was completely waterproof. We also bought a large army tent in Hong Kong for the staff, along with two canvas tarps to protect our gear and specimens. We used sleeping bags and folding cots, as well as tables and chairs, because when an expedition plans to be out in the field for a long time, it’s essential to be as comfortable as possible and to have good living conditions; otherwise, you can’t work at your best. 75

For clothing we all wore khaki or "Dux-back" suits with flannel shirts and high leather shoes for mountain climbing, and we had light rubber automobile shirts and rubber caps for use in rainy weather. The auto shirt is a long, loose robe which slips over the head and fastens about the neck and, when one is sitting upon a horse, can be so spread about as to cover all exposed parts of the body; it is especially useful and necessary, and hip rubber boots are also very comfortable during the rainy season.

For clothing, we all wore khaki or "Dux-back" suits with flannel shirts and sturdy leather shoes for hiking, and we had lightweight rubber rain jackets and rubber hats for wet weather. The rain jacket is a long, loose garment that slips over the head and fastens around the neck; when you're sitting on a horse, it can be adjusted to cover all exposed areas of your body. It's especially useful, and rubber boots are also really comfortable during the rainy season.

Our traps for catching small mammals were brought from New York. We had two sizes of wooden "Out of Sight" for mice and rats, and four or five sizes of Oneida steel traps for catching medium sized animals such as civets and polecats. We also carried a half dozen No. 5 wolf traps. Mr. Heller had used this size in Africa and found that they were large enough even to hold lions.

Our traps for catching small mammals were brought from New York. We had two sizes of wooden "Out of Sight" traps for mice and rats, and four or five sizes of Oneida steel traps for catching medium-sized animals like civets and polecats. We also had about six No. 5 wolf traps. Mr. Heller had used this size in Africa and found that they were big enough to even hold lions.

Mr. Heller carried a 250-300 Savage rifle, while I used a 6½ mm. Mannlicher and a .405 Winchester. All of these guns were eminently satisfactory, but the choice of a rifle is a very personal matter and every sportsman has his favorite weapon. We found, however, that a flat trajectory high-power rifle such as those with which we were armed was absolutely essential for many of our shots were at long range and we frequently killed gorals at three hundred yards or over.

Mr. Heller carried a 250-300 Savage rifle, while I used a 6½ mm Mannlicher and a .405 Winchester. All of these guns were extremely reliable, but choosing a rifle is a very personal decision, and every sportsman has their favorite. We found, however, that a flat trajectory high-power rifle like the ones we had was absolutely essential since many of our shots were at long range, and we often took down gorals at three hundred yards or more.

The camera equipment consisted of two 3A Kodaks, a Graphic 4 × 5 tripod camera, and Graflex 4 × 5 for rapid work. We have found after considerable field - 76 - experience that the 4 × 5 is the most convenient size to handle, for the plate is large enough and can be obtained more readily than any other in different parts of the world. The same applies to the 3A Kodak "post-card" size film, for there are few places where foreign goods are carried that 3A films cannot be purchased.

The camera setup included two 3A Kodaks, a Graphic 4 × 5 tripod camera, and a Graflex 4 × 5 for quick work. After significant hands-on experience in the field, we've determined that the 4 × 5 is the easiest size to manage since the plate is large enough and can be found more easily than others in various parts of the world. The same goes for the 3A Kodak "post-card" size film, as there are very few places that sell foreign goods where you can't find 3A films. - 76 -

All of our plates and films were sealed in air-tight tin boxes before we left America, and thus the material was in perfect condition when the cans were opened. We used plates almost altogether in the finer photographic work, for although they are heavier and more difficult to handle than films, nevertheless the results obtained are very superior. A collapsible rubber dark room about seven feet high and four feet in diameter was an indispensable part of the camera equipment. This tent was made for us by the Abercrombie & Fitch Company, of New York, and could be hung from the limb of a tree or the rafters of a building and be ready for use in five minutes.

All of our plates and films were sealed in airtight tin boxes before we left America, so the materials were in perfect condition when we opened the cans. We primarily used plates for the finer photography work because, although they are heavier and trickier to handle than films, the results are much better. A collapsible rubber darkroom about seven feet high and four feet in diameter was an essential part of the camera equipment. This tent was made for us by the Abercrombie & Fitch Company in New York and could be hung from a tree branch or the rafters of a building and be set up in five minutes.

The motion pictures were taken with a Universal camera, and like all other negatives were developed in the field by means of a special apparatus which had been designed by Mr. Carl Akeley of the American Museum of Natural History. This work required a much larger space than that of the portable dark room and we consequently had a tent made of red cloth which could be tied inside of our ordinary sleeping tent.

The films were shot with a Universal camera, and, like all other negatives, they were developed on-site using a special device designed by Mr. Carl Akeley from the American Museum of Natural History. This process needed significantly more space than the portable darkroom, so we had a red cloth tent made that could be tied inside our regular sleeping tent.

Our equipment was packed in fiber army trunks and in wooden boxes with sliding tops. The latter arrangement is especially desirable in Yün-nan, for the loads can be opened without being untied from the saddle, thus saving a considerable amount of time and trouble.

Our gear was packed in fiber army trunks and wooden boxes with sliding lids. The latter setup is particularly useful in Yün-nan, as the loads can be opened without needing to be untied from the saddle, saving a significant amount of time and effort.

It was by no means an easy matter to get our supplies - 77 - together, but the Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong pushed the making and packing of our boxes in a remarkably efficient manner; as the manager of one of their departments expressed it, "the one way to hurry a Chinaman is to get more Chinamen," and they put a small army at work upon our material, which was ready for shipment in just a week.

It wasn't easy to get our supplies together, but the Lane & Crawford Company in Hong Kong handled the production and packing of our boxes in a surprisingly efficient way. As the manager of one of their departments put it, "the best way to speed things up with a Chinese worker is to bring in more Chinese workers," and they assembled a small army to work on our materials, which were ready for shipment in only a week. - 77 -

While in Hongkong we were joined by Wu Hung-tao, of Shanghai, who acted as interpreter and "head boy" as well as a general field manager of the expedition. He formerly had been in the employ of Mr. F. W. Cary, when the latter was Commissioner of Customs in Teng-yueh, Yün-nan, and he was educated at the Anglo-Chinese College of Foochow. Wu proved to be the most efficient and trustworthy servant whom we have ever employed, and the success of our work was due in no small degree to his efforts.

While in Hong Kong, we were joined by Wu Hung-tao from Shanghai, who served as our interpreter and "head guy," as well as the general field manager for the expedition. He had previously worked for Mr. F. W. Cary when Cary was the Commissioner of Customs in Teng-yueh, Yün-nan, and he was educated at the Anglo-Chinese College in Foochow. Wu turned out to be the most efficient and reliable assistant we've ever had, and the success of our work was largely thanks to his efforts.

We left for Tonking on the S. S. Sung-kiang, commanded by Harry Trowbridge, a congenial and well-read gentleman whose delightful personality contributed much toward making our week's stay on his ship most pleasant. On our way to Haiphong the vessel stopped at the island of Hainan and anchored about three miles off the town of Hoi-hau. This island is 90 by 150 miles long, is mountainous in its center, but flat and uninteresting at the northwest.

We left for Tonking on the S. S. Sung-kiang, captained by Harry Trowbridge, a friendly and well-educated guy whose wonderful personality made our week on his ship really enjoyable. On our way to Haiphong, the ship stopped at Hainan Island and anchored about three miles from the town of Hoi-hau. This island is 90 by 150 miles long, has mountains in the center, but is flat and dull in the northwest.

A large part of the island is unexplored and in the interior there is a mountain called "the Five Fingers" which has never been ascended, for it is reported that the hill tribes are unfriendly and that the tropical valleys are reeking with deadly malaria. The island undoubtedly would prove to be a rich field for zoölogical work as is shown by the collections which the American Museum - 78 - of Natural History has already received from a native dealer; these include monkeys, squirrels, and other small mammals, and bears, leopards, and deer are said to be among its fauna.

A large part of the island is unexplored, and in the interior, there’s a mountain called "the Five Fingers" that has never been climbed because it’s said that the hill tribes are hostile and the tropical valleys are filled with deadly malaria. The island would definitely be a great area for zoological research, as shown by the collections that the American Museum of Natural History has already received from a local dealer; these include monkeys, squirrels, and other small mammals, and it’s reported that bears, leopards, and deer are part of its wildlife. 78

The next night's steaming brought us to the city of Paik-hoi on the mainland. In the afternoon we went ashore with Captain Trowbridge to visit Dr. Bradley of the China Inland Mission who is in charge of a leper hospital, which is a model of its kind. The doctor was away but we made ourselves at home and when he returned he found us in his drawing room comfortably enjoying afternoon tea. He remarked that he knew of a Chinese cook who was looking for a position, and half an hour later, while we were watching some remarkably fine tennis, the cook arrived. He was about six feet two inches high, and so thin that he was immediately christened the "Woolworth Building" and, although not a very prepossessing looking individual he was forthwith engaged, principally because of his ability to speak English. This was at six o'clock in the afternoon and we had to be aboard the ship at eight. The doctor sent a note to the French Consul and the cook returned anon with his baggage and passport. Obtaining this cook was the only really rapid thing which I have ever seen done in China!

The next night, we arrived in the city of Paik-hoi on the mainland. In the afternoon, we went ashore with Captain Trowbridge to visit Dr. Bradley of the China Inland Mission, who runs a top-notch leper hospital. The doctor wasn’t there, but we made ourselves comfortable, and when he returned, he found us in his living room enjoying some afternoon tea. He mentioned that he knew a Chinese cook who was looking for a job, and half an hour later, while we were watching some really great tennis, the cook showed up. He was about six feet two inches tall and so thin that we immediately nicknamed him the "Woolworth Building." Even though he wasn’t the most attractive person, we decided to hire him mainly because he could speak English. This happened at six o'clock in the evening, and we needed to be back on the ship by eight. The doctor sent a note to the French Consul, and the cook quickly returned with his belongings and passport. Getting this cook was the only truly fast thing I’ve ever seen happen in China!

When the Sung-kiang arrived in Haiphong the next afternoon we were besieged by a screaming, fighting mob of Annamits who seized upon our baggage like so many vultures, and it was only by means of a few well-directed kicks that we could prevent it from being scattered to the four winds of Heaven. After we had designated a sampan to receive our equipment the unloading began and several trunks had gone over the side, when Mr. - 79 - Heller happened to glance down just in time to see one of the ammunition boxes drop into the water and sink like lead. The Annamits, believing that it had not been noticed, went on as blithely as before and volubly denied that anything had been lost. We stopped the unloading instantly and sent for divers. The box had sunk in thirty feet of muddy water and it seemed useless to hope that it could ever be recovered, but the divers went to work by dropping a heavy stone on the end of a rope and going down it hand over hand.

When the Sung-kiang got to Haiphong the next afternoon, we were swarmed by a loud, chaotic crowd of Annamites who grabbed our bags like vultures, and we had to kick a few of them away to keep our stuff from being scattered everywhere. After we had arranged for a sampan to take our gear, the unloading started, and several trunks had already been lowered when Mr. Heller happened to look down just in time to see one of the ammo boxes drop into the water and sink like a rock. The Annamites, thinking no one had noticed, kept going as if nothing had happened and cheerfully insisted that nothing was lost. We called off the unloading immediately and sent for divers. The box had sunk in thirty feet of muddy water and it seemed pointless to hope we could get it back, but the divers began by tying a heavy stone to a rope and going down hand over hand.

After two hours the box was located and brought dripping to the surface. Fortunately but little of the ammunition was ruined, and most of it was dried during the night in the engine room. Because of this delay we had to leave Haiphong on the following day, and with Captain Trowbridge, we went by train to Hanoi, the capital of the colony.

After two hours, the box was found and brought up, still dripping wet. Luckily, only a small portion of the ammunition was damaged, and most of it dried out overnight in the engine room. Because of this delay, we had to leave Haiphong the next day, and with Captain Trowbridge, we took a train to Hanoi, the capital of the colony.

Hanoi is a city of delightful surprises. It has broad, clean streets, overhung with trees which often form a cool green canopy overhead, beautiful lawns and well-kept houses, and in the center of the town is a lovely lake surrounded by a wide border of palms. At the far end, like a jewel in a crystal setting, seems to float a white pagoda, an outpost of the temple which stands in the midst of a watery meadow of lotus plants. The city shops are excellent, but in most instances the prices are exceedingly high.

Hanoi is a city full of pleasant surprises. It features wide, clean streets lined with trees that create a cool green canopy overhead, lovely lawns, and well-maintained houses. In the heart of the city, there's a beautiful lake surrounded by a broad edge of palm trees. At the far end, like a gem in a crystal setting, a white pagoda appears to float, marking the location of a temple that stands amidst a watery field of lotus plants. The shops in the city are outstanding, but in most cases, the prices are quite high.

Like all the French towns in the Orient the hours for work are rather confusing to the foreigner. The shops open at 6:30 in the morning and close at 11 o'clock to reopen again at 8 in the afternoon and continue business until 7:30 or 8 o'clock in the evening. During the middle of the day all houses have the shutters closely drawn, - 80 - and because of the intense heat and glare of the sun the streets are absolutely deserted, not even a native being visible. In the morning a petit déjeuner, remarkable especially for its "petitness," is served, and a real déjeuner comes later anywhere from 10 to 12:30.

Like all the French towns in the East, the work hours can be quite confusing for foreigners. Shops open at 6:30 in the morning and close at 11 o'clock, then reopen at 8 in the afternoon and stay open until 7:30 or 8 in the evening. During the middle of the day, all the windows are tightly shut, and due to the intense heat and bright sunlight, the streets are completely deserted, with not even a local person in sight. In the morning, a petit déjeuner, noted particularly for its "smallness," is served, followed by a proper déjeuner later, anytime between 10 and 12:30. - 80 -

About 6 o'clock in the evening the open cafés and restaurants along the sidewalk are lined with groups of men and women playing cards and dice and drinking gin and bitters, vermouth or absinthe. There is an air of happiness and life about Hanoi which is typically Parisian and even during war time it is a city of gayety. An immense theater stands in the center of the town, but has not been opened since the beginning of the war.

About 6 o'clock in the evening, the open cafés and restaurants along the sidewalk are filled with groups of men and women playing cards and dice while sipping gin and bitters, vermouth, or absinthe. There's a vibe of happiness and liveliness in Hanoi that feels typically Parisian, and even during wartime, it's a city full of cheer. A huge theater stands in the center of town, but it hasn't opened since the war began.

We had letters to M. Chemin Dupontès, the director of the railroads, as well as to the Lieutenant-Governor and other officials. Without exception we were received in the most cordial manner and every facility and convenience put at our disposal. M. Dupontès was especially helpful.

We had letters for M. Chemin Dupontès, the head of the railroads, along with the Lieutenant-Governor and other officials. Without exception, we were welcomed in the most friendly way, and every facility and convenience was provided to us. M. Dupontès was particularly helpful.

Some time before our arrival a tunnel on the railroad from Hanoi to Yün-nan Fu had caved in and for almost a month trains had not been running. It was now in operation, however, but all luggage had to be transferred by hand at the broken tunnel and consequently must not exceed eighty-five pounds in weight. This meant repacking our entire equipment and three days of hard work. M. Dupontès arranged to have our 4000 pounds of baggage put in a special third class carriage with our "boys" in attendance and in this way saved the expedition a considerable amount of money. He personally went with us to the station to arrange for our comfort with the chef de gare, telegraphed ahead at every station - 81 - upon the railroad, and gave us an open letter to all officials; in fact there was nothing which he left undone.

Some time before we got there, a tunnel on the train line from Hanoi to Yün-nan Fu had collapsed, and for almost a month, no trains had run. It was back in operation now, but all luggage had to be transferred manually at the damaged tunnel and couldn’t weigh more than eighty-five pounds. This meant we had to repack everything we were carrying, which took three days of hard work. M. Dupontès arranged for our 4000 pounds of baggage to be placed in a special third-class carriage with our "boys" looking after it, saving the expedition a significant amount of money. He personally came with us to the station to ensure we were comfortable with the chef de gare, telegraphed ahead to every station on the railroad, and provided us with an open letter to all officials; in fact, he left nothing undone. - 81 -

The railroad is a remarkable engineering achievement for it was constructed in great haste through a difficult mountainous range. Yün-nan is an exceedingly rich province and the French were quick to see the advantages of drawing its vast trade to their own seaports. The British were already making surveys to construct a railroad from Bhamo on the headwaters of the Irawadi River across Yün-nan to connect with the Yangtze, and the French were anxious to have their road in operation some time before the rival line could be completed.

The railroad is an incredible engineering feat because it was built quickly through challenging mountain terrain. Yün-nan is a very wealthy province, and the French quickly recognized the benefits of channeling its extensive trade to their own seaports. The British were already surveying to build a railroad from Bhamo on the upper reaches of the Irawadi River through Yün-nan to link up with the Yangtze, and the French were eager to get their route running well before the competing line could be finished.

Owing to its hasty construction and the heavy rainfall, or perhaps to both, the tunnels and bridges frequently cave in or are washed away and the railroad is chiefly remarkable for the number of days in the year in which it does not operate; nevertheless the French deserve great credit for their enterprise in extending their line to Yün-nan Fu over the mountains where there is a tunnel or bridge almost every mile of the way. While it was being built through the fever-stricken jungles of Tonking the coolies died like flies, and it was necessary to suspend all work during the summer months.

Due to its rushed construction and heavy rainfall, or maybe both, the tunnels and bridges often collapse or get washed away, and the railroad is mainly known for the number of days it doesn’t operate each year. Still, the French deserve significant praise for their effort in extending the line to Yün-nan Fu over the mountains, where there’s a tunnel or bridge nearly every mile. While construction was underway through the disease-ridden jungles of Tonking, the laborers died in droves, and it became necessary to halt all work during the summer months.

The scenery along the railroad is marvelous and the traveling is by no means uncomfortable, but the hotels in which one stops at night are wretched. One of our friends in Hongkong related an amusing experience which he had at Lao-kay, the first hotel on the railroad. He asked for a bath and discovered that a tub of hot water had been prepared. He wished a cold bath, and seeing a large tank filled with cold water in the corner of the room he climbed in and was enjoying himself when the hotel proprietor suddenly rushed upstairs exclaiming, - 82 - "Mon Dieu, Mon Dieu, you are in the tank of drinking water."

The scenery along the railroad is amazing, and the travel is definitely comfortable, but the hotels where you stay at night are terrible. One of our friends in Hong Kong shared a funny story about his time at Lao-kay, the first hotel on the railroad. He requested a bath and found that a tub of hot water had been set up for him. He wanted a cold bath instead, and noticing a large tank filled with cold water in the corner of the room, he climbed in and was having a great time when the hotel owner suddenly rushed upstairs shouting, - 82 - "Oh my God, oh my God, you’re in the drinking water tank!"

When we arrived at Yün-nan Fu we found a surprisingly cosmopolitan community housed within its grim old walls; some were consuls, some missionaries, some salt, telegraph, or customs officials in the Chinese employ, and others represented business firms in Hongkong, but all received us with open-handed hospitality characteristic of the East.

When we got to Yün-nan Fu, we were surprised to find a very diverse community living within its old, worn-down walls. There were consuls, missionaries, and various officials involved with salt, telegraph, or customs in the Chinese service, along with representatives from business firms in Hong Kong. Yet, everyone welcomed us with the generous hospitality that’s typical in the East.

We thought that after leaving Hongkong our evening clothes would not again be used, but they were requisitioned every night for we were guests at dinners given by almost everyone of the foreign community. Mr. Howard Page, a representative of the Standard Oil Company, proved a most valuable friend, and through him we were able to obtain a caravan and make other arrangements for the transportation of our baggage. M. Henry Wilden, the French Consul, an ardent sportsman and a charming gentleman, took an active interest in our affairs and arranged a meeting for us with the Chinese Commissioner of Foreign Affairs. Moreover, he later transported our trunks to Hongkong with his personal baggage and assisted us in every possible way.

We thought that after leaving Hong Kong our evening clothes wouldn’t be needed again, but we had to wear them every night because we were guests at dinners hosted by nearly everyone in the foreign community. Mr. Howard Page, a representative from the Standard Oil Company, became a great friend, and through him, we were able to secure a caravan and make other arrangements for transporting our luggage. M. Henry Wilden, the French Consul, who was a passionate sportsman and a nice guy, took a keen interest in our situation and set up a meeting for us with the Chinese Commissioner of Foreign Affairs. Additionally, he later helped transport our trunks to Hong Kong with his own luggage and supported us in every way he could.

We went to the Foreign Office at half past ten and were ushered into a large room where a rather imposing lunch had already been spread. The Commissioner, a fat, jolly little man, who knew a few words of French but none of English, received us in the most cordial way and immediately opened several bottles of champagne in our honor. He asked why our passports had not been viséd in Peking, and we pleased him greatly by replying that at the time we were in the capital Yün-nan was an independent province and consequently the Peking Government - 83 - had not the temerity to put their stamp upon our passports.

We arrived at the Foreign Office at 10:30 and were led into a large room where an impressive lunch had already been set up. The Commissioner, a chubby, cheerful man who spoke a little French but no English, welcomed us warmly and immediately opened several bottles of champagne in our honor. He inquired why our passports had not been stamped in Peking, and we pleased him greatly by explaining that at the time we were in the capital, Yün-nan was an independent province, so the Peking Government didn’t dare to stamp our passports. 83

Inasmuch as Yün-nan was infested with brigands we had expected some opposition to our plans for traveling in the interior, but none was forthcoming, and with the exception of an offer of a guard of soldiers for our trip to Ta-li Fu which we knew it would be impolitic to refuse, we left the Foreign Office with all the desired permits.

In light of the fact that Yün-nan had problems with bandits, we anticipated some resistance to our plans for traveling in the countryside, but there was none. Apart from an offer of military guards for our trip to Ta-li Fu, which we knew would be rude to decline, we left the Foreign Office with all the necessary permits.

The Chinese Government appeared to be greatly interested in our zoölogical study of Yün-nan, offered to assist us in every way we could suggest, and telegraphed to every mandarin in the north and west of the province, instructing them to receive us with all honor and to facilitate our work in every way. None of the opposition which we had been led to expect developed, and it is difficult to see how we could have been more cordially received.

The Chinese government seemed very interested in our zoological study of Yün-nan. They offered to help us in any way we suggested and sent a telegram to every mandarin in the north and west of the province, instructing them to receive us with full honor and to make our work easier in every possible way. None of the opposition we had anticipated arose, and it’s hard to imagine how we could have been welcomed more warmly.

- 84 -

CHAPTER X

ON THE ROAD TO TA-LI FU

On August 6, we dispatched half our equipment to Ta-li Fu, and three days later we ourselves left Yün-nan Fu at eleven o'clock in the morning after an interminable wait for our caravan. Through the kindness of Mr. Page, a house boat was put at our disposal and we sailed across the upper end of the beautiful lake which lies just outside the city, and intercepted the caravan twenty-five li[1] from Yün-nan Fu.

On August 6, we sent half of our equipment to Ta-li Fu, and three days later we left Yün-nan Fu at eleven o'clock in the morning after a long wait for our caravan. Thanks to Mr. Page, we had a houseboat available, and we sailed across the upper end of the beautiful lake just outside the city, intercepting the caravan twenty-five li[1] from Yün-nan Fu.

On the way we passed a number of cormorant fishers, each with ten or a dozen birds sitting quietly upon the boat with outspread wings drying their feathers. Every bird has a ring about its neck, and is thus prevented from swallowing the fish which it catches by diving into the water.

On the way, we passed several cormorant fishermen, each with ten or a dozen birds sitting quietly on the boat with their wings spread out, drying their feathers. Each bird has a ring around its neck, which stops it from swallowing the fish it catches by diving into the water.

After waiting an hour for our caravan we saw the long train of mules and horses winding up the hill toward us. There were seventeen altogether, and in the midst of them rode the cook clinging desperately with both hands to a diminutive mule, his long legs dangling and a look of utter wretchedness upon his face. Just before the caravan reached us it began to rain, and the cook laboriously pulled on a suit of yellow oilskins which we had purchased for him in Yün-nan Fu. These, together with a huge yellow hat, completed a picture which made us roar with laughter; Heller gave the caption for it when he shouted, "Here comes the 'Yellow Peril.'"

After waiting an hour for our caravan, we finally saw the long line of mules and horses making their way up the hill toward us. There were seventeen in total, and in the middle of them rode the cook, desperately clinging to a small mule, his long legs dangling and an expression of complete misery on his face. Just before the caravan reached us, it started to rain, and the cook struggled to pull on a yellow raincoat we had bought for him in Yün-nan Fu. These, along with a large yellow hat, created a scene that made us burst out laughing; Heller provided the perfect caption when he shouted, "Here comes the 'Yellow Peril.'"

[1] A li in this province equals one-third of an English mile.

[1] A li in this province is one-third of an English mile.

Cormorant Fishers on the Lake at Yün-nan Fu

Our Camp at Chou Chou on the Way to Ta-li Fu

- 85 -

We surveyed the tiny horses with dismay. As Heller vainly tried to get his girth tight enough to keep the saddle from sliding over the animal's tail he exclaimed, "Is this a horse or a squirrel I'm trying to ride?" But it was not so bad when we finally climbed aboard and found that we did not crush the little brutes.

We looked at the tiny horses with disappointment. As Heller unsuccessfully tried to tighten his girth enough to stop the saddle from sliding over the horse's tail, he exclaimed, "Is this a horse or a squirrel I'm trying to ride?" But it didn't turn out to be so bad once we finally got on and realized we weren't squashing the little creatures.

A seventy-pound box on each side of the saddle with a few odds and ends on top made a pack of at least one hundred and sixty pounds. This is heavy even for a large animal and for these tiny mules seemed an impossibility, but it is the usual weight, and the business-like way in which they moved off showed that they were not overloaded.

A seventy-pound box on each side of the saddle with a few extra items on top made a total pack of at least one hundred and sixty pounds. That's heavy even for a large animal, and for these small mules, it seemed impossible, but this is the typical weight, and the efficient way they moved off showed that they weren't overloaded.

The Yün-nan pack saddle is a remarkably ingenious arrangement. The load is strapped with a rawhide to a double A-shaped frame which fits loosely over a second saddle on the animal's back and is held in place by its own weight. If a mule falls the pack comes off and, moreover, it can be easily removed if the road is bad or whenever a stop is made. It has the great disadvantage, however, of giving the horses serious back sores which receive but scanty attention from the mafus (muleteers).

The Yün-nan pack saddle is an incredibly clever design. The load is secured with a rawhide to a double A-shaped frame that sits loosely over a second saddle on the animal's back and stays in place by its own weight. If a mule falls, the pack will come off, and it can also be easily taken off if the road is rough or whenever there's a stop. However, it has the major drawback of causing serious back sores on the horses, which get very little care from the mafus (muleteers).

When we were fairly started upon our long ride to Ta-li Fu the time slipped by in a succession of delightful days. Since this was the main caravan route the mafus had regular stages beyond which they would not go. If we did not stop for luncheon the march could be ended early in the afternoon and we could settle ourselves for the night in a temple which always proved - 86 - a veritable "haven of rest" after a long day in the saddle. A few pages from my wife's "Journal" of September fifteenth describes our camp at Lu-ho-we and our life on the road to Ta-li Fu.

When we started our long ride to Ta-li Fu, time flew by in a series of enjoyable days. Since this was the main caravan route, the mafus had regular stops they wouldn’t go beyond. If we didn’t stop for lunch, we could finish our march early in the afternoon and settle in for the night at a temple, which always turned out to be a true "haven of rest" after a long day in the saddle. A few pages from my wife's "Journal" from September fifteenth describe our camp at Lu-ho-we and our experiences on the way to Ta-li Fu. - 86 -

We are sitting on the porch of an old, old temple. It is on a hilltop in a forest grove with the gray-walled town lying at our feet. The sun is flooding the flower-filled courtyard and throwing bars of golden light through the twisted branches of a bent old pine, over the stone well, and into the dim recesses behind the altar where a benevolent idol grins down upon us.

We’re sitting on the porch of a really old temple. It’s on a hilltop in a forest clearing, with the gray-walled town spread out below us. The sun is pouring into the flower-filled courtyard, casting beams of golden light through the twisted branches of a crooked old pine, over the stone well, and into the dark corners behind the altar where a friendly idol smiles down at us.

We have been in the saddle for eight hours and it is enchanting to rest in this peaceful, aged temple. Outside children are shouting and laughing but all is quiet here save for the drip of water in the well, and the chatter of a magpie on the pine tree. Today we made the stage in one long march and now we can rest and browse among our books or wander with a gun along the cool, tree-shaded paths.

We’ve been riding for eight hours, and it feels great to relax in this calm, old temple. Outside, kids are shouting and laughing, but it’s quiet here except for the sound of water dripping in the well and a magpie chatting in the pine tree. Today, we covered a lot of ground in one long trek, and now we can rest, read our books, or stroll with a gun along the cool, shaded paths.

The sun is hot at mid-day, although the mornings and evenings are cold, and tonight we shall build a fragrant fire of yellow pine, and talk for an hour before we go to sleep upon the porch where we can see the moon come up and the stars shining so low that they seem like tiny lanterns in the sky.

The sun is blazing at midday, but the mornings and evenings are chilly. Tonight, we’ll make a cozy fire with yellow pine and chat for an hour before we sleep on the porch, where we can watch the moon rise and the stars shine so low that they look like little lanterns in the sky.

It is seven days since we left Yün-nan Fu and each night we have come to temples such as this. There is an inexpressible charm about them, lying asleep, as it were, among the trees of their courtyards, with stately, pillared porches, and picturesque gables upturned to the sky. They seem so very, very old and filled with such great calm and peace.

It has been seven days since we departed from Yün-nan Fu, and each night we've arrived at temples like this one. There’s an indescribable charm about them, nestled peacefully among the trees in their courtyards, with grand, columned porches and charming gables tilted towards the sky. They feel incredibly old and are filled with a profound sense of calm and tranquility.

Sometimes they stand in the midst of a populous town and we ride through long streets between dirty houses, swarming with ragged women, filthy men, and screaming children; suddenly we come to the dilapidated entrance of our temple, pass through a courtyard, close the huge gates and are in another world.

Sometimes they stand in the middle of a busy town and we ride through long streets lined with run-down houses, crowded with shabby women, dirty men, and noisy children; suddenly we arrive at the crumbling entrance of our temple, walk through a courtyard, close the massive gates, and enter a different world.

- 87 -

We leave early every morning and the boys are up long before dawn. As we sleepily open our eyes we see their dark figures silhouetted against the brilliant camp fire, hear the yawns of the mafus and the contented crunching of the mules as they chew their beans.

We head out early every morning, and the guys are up well before dawn. As we groggily open our eyes, we see their dark shapes outlined by the bright campfire and hear the yawns of the mafus and the satisfied crunching of the mules as they munch on their beans.

Wu appears with a lantern and calls out the hour and before we have fully dressed the odor of coffee has found its way to the remotest corner of the temple, and a breakfast of pancakes, eggs, and oatmeal is awaiting on the folding table spread with a clean white cloth. While we are eating, the beds are packed, and the loads retied, accompanied by a running fire of exhortations to the mafus who cause us endless trouble.

Wu shows up with a lantern and calls out the time, and before we’ve even fully gotten dressed, the smell of coffee has reached every corner of the temple. A breakfast of pancakes, eggs, and oatmeal is ready on the folding table covered with a clean white cloth. While we’re eating, the beds are being packed, and the loads are being retied, all while there’s a constant stream of complaints directed at the mafus who give us endless trouble.

They are a hard lot, these mafus. Force seems to be the only thing they understand and kindness produces no results. If the march is long and we stop for tiffin it is well-nigh impossible to get them started within three hours without the aid of threats. Once after a long halt when all seemed ready, we rode ahead only to wait by the roadside for hours before the caravan arrived. As soon as we were out of sight they had begun to shoe their mules and that night we did not make our stage until long after dark.

They’re a tough group, these mafus. It seems like the only thing they respond to is force, and being nice doesn’t get us anywhere. If the march is long and we take a break for lunch, it’s nearly impossible to get them moving again within three hours without using threats. One time, after a long stop when everything seemed ready, we rode ahead and ended up waiting by the roadside for hours before the caravan showed up. As soon as we were out of sight, they started shoeing their mules, and that night we didn’t reach our destination until well after dark.

In the morning when we see the first loads actually on the horses we ride off at the head of the caravan followed by a straggling line of mules and horses picking their way over the jagged stones of the road. It is delightful in the early morning for the air is fresh and brisk like that of October at home, but later in the day when the sun is higher it is uncomfortably hot, and we are glad to find a bit of shade where we can rest until the caravan arrives.

In the morning, when we see the first loads actually on the horses, we ride off at the front of the caravan, followed by a scattered line of mules and horses making their way over the rough stones of the road. It's wonderful in the early morning because the air is fresh and crisp like an October day at home, but later in the day, when the sun is higher, it gets uncomfortably hot, and we’re happy to find some shade to rest in until the caravan arrives.

The roads are execrable. The Chinese have a proverb which says: "A road is good for ten years and bad for ten thousand," and this applies most excellently to those of Yün-nan. The main caravan highways are paved with huge stones to make them passable during the rainy season, but after a few - 88 - years' wear the blocks become broken and irregular, the earth is washed from between them and they are upturned at impossible angles. The result is a chaotic mass which by no stretch of imagination can be called a road. Where the stones are still in place they have been worn to such glasslike smoothness by the thousands of passing mules that it is well-nigh impossible to walk upon them. As a result a caravan avoids the paving whenever it can find a path and sometimes dozens of deeply-cut trails wind over the hills beside the road.

The roads are terrible. There's a Chinese saying: "A road is good for ten years and bad for ten thousand," which perfectly describes the ones in Yün-nan. The main caravan routes are covered with large stones to keep them passable during the rainy season, but after a few years, the blocks become broken and uneven, the earth is washed away from between them, and they’re upturned at awkward angles. The result is a jumbled mess that can't really be called a road. Where the stones remain in place, they've been worn down to a glassy smoothness by the thousands of mules that have passed over them, making it nearly impossible to walk on them. Because of this, a caravan tends to avoid the paving whenever it can find another path, and sometimes dozens of deep trails wind over the hills beside the road.

We are seldom on level ground, for ten per cent of the entire province is mountainous and we soon lost count of the ranges which we crossed. It is slow, hard work, toiling up the steep mountain-sides, but once on the ridges where the country is spread out below us like a great, green relief map, there is a wonderful exhilaration, and we climb higher with a joyous sense of freedom.

We’re rarely on flat ground because ten percent of the whole province is mountainous, and we quickly lost track of the ranges we crossed. It’s slow and tough work climbing up the steep mountain sides, but once we reach the ridges and see the landscape spread out below like a massive green relief map, there’s an amazing rush of excitement, and we keep climbing higher with a joyful sense of freedom.

Yün-nan means "south of the cloud" and every morning the peaks about us are shrouded in fog. Sometimes the veil-like mists still float about the mountain tops when we climb into them, and we are suddenly enveloped in a wet gray blanket which sends us shivering into the coats tied to our saddles.

Yün-nan means "south of the cloud," and every morning the peaks around us are covered in fog. Sometimes, the mist still lingers around the mountaintops when we ascend, and we suddenly find ourselves wrapped in a damp gray blanket that makes us shiver and reach for the coats tied to our saddles.

For centuries this road has been one of the main trade arteries through the province, and with the total lack of conservation ideas so characteristic of the Chinese, every available bit of natural forest has been cut away. As a result the mountains are desert wastes of sandstone alternating with grass-covered hills sometimes clothed with groves of pines or spruces. These trees have all been planted, and ere they have reached a height of fifteen or twenty feet will yield to the insistent demand for wood which is ever present with the Chinese.

For centuries, this road has been one of the main trade routes through the province, and with the complete lack of conservation efforts typical of the Chinese, every bit of natural forest has been cleared. As a result, the mountains are now barren landscapes of sandstone mixed with grass-covered hills, occasionally adorned with planted groves of pines or spruces. These trees have all been artificially planted, and before they even reach a height of fifteen or twenty feet, they will succumb to the constant demand for wood that is always present among the Chinese.

The ignorance of the need of forest conservation is an illuminating commentary on Chinese education. - 89 - Mr. William Hanna, a missionary of Ta-li Fu, told us that one day he was riding over this same road with a Chinese gentleman, a deep scholar, who was considered one of the best educated men of the province. Pointing to the barren hills washed clean of soil and deeply worn by countless floods, Mr. Hanna remarked that all this could have been prevented, and that instead of a rocky waste there might have been a fertile hillside, had the trees been left to grow.

The lack of awareness about the importance of forest conservation highlights a significant issue in Chinese education. - 89 - Mr. William Hanna, a missionary from Ta-li Fu, shared that one day he was traveling along this same road with a well-educated Chinese man, a scholar who was regarded as one of the most educated individuals in the province. As they looked at the barren hills stripped of soil and severely eroded by multiple floods, Mr. Hanna pointed out that all of this could have been avoided, and instead of a rocky wasteland, there could have been a lush hillside if the trees had been allowed to remain.

The Chinese scholar listened in amazement to facts which every western schoolboy has learned ere he is twelve years old, but of which he was ignorant because they are not a part of Confucius' teachings. To study modern science is considered a waste of time by the orthodox Chinese for "everything good must be old," and all his life he delves into the past utterly neglectful of the present.

The Chinese scholar listened in amazement to facts that every western schoolboy has learned by the age of twelve, but he was unaware of them because they aren't part of Confucius' teachings. The orthodox Chinese view studying modern science as a waste of time since "everything good must be old," and throughout his life, he digs into the past while completely ignoring the present.

Every valley along the road was green with rice fields and this, together with the deforestation of the mountains, is responsible for the almost total lack of animal life. Night after night we set traps about our temple camps only to find them untouched in the morning. There were no mammals with the exception of a few red-bellied squirrels (Callosciurus erythræus subsp.) and now and then a tree shrew (Tupaia belangeri chinensis).

Every valley along the road was lush with rice fields, and this, along with the deforestation of the mountains, has led to the almost complete absence of wildlife. Night after night, we set traps around our temple camps, only to find them untouched in the morning. There were no mammals except for a few red-bellied squirrels (Callosciurus erythræus subsp.) and occasionally a tree shrew (Tupaia belangeri chinensis).

The latter is an interesting species. Although it is an Insectivore, and a relative of the tiny shrews which live in holes and under logs, it has squirrel-like habits and in appearance is like a squirrel to which it is totally unrelated. Instead of the thinly haired mouselike tails of the ordinary shrews the tupaias have developed long bushy tails and in fact look and act so much like - 90 - squirrels that it is difficult to convince the white residents of Yün-nan, who are accustomed to see them run about the hedges and walls of their courtyards that the two are quite unrelated.

The latter is an interesting species. Although it’s an insect-eater and related to the tiny shrews that live in holes and under logs, it has squirrel-like habits and looks a lot like a squirrel, even though they aren’t related at all. Instead of the thinly haired, mouse-like tails of regular shrews, the tupaias have long, bushy tails and really look and act so much like squirrels that it's tough to convince the white residents of Yün-nan, who are used to seeing them run around the hedges and walls of their courtyards, that the two are completely unrelated. 90

The tree shrews are found only in Asia and are one of the most remarkable instances of a superficial resemblance between unrelated animals with similar habits. A study of their anatomy has revealed the fact that they represent a distinct group which is connected with the monkeys (lemurs).

The tree shrews are found only in Asia and are one of the most interesting examples of a superficial similarity between unrelated animals with similar behaviors. A study of their anatomy has shown that they belong to a unique group that is related to monkeys (lemurs).

Although birds were fairly abundant the species were not varied. We were about a month too early for the ducks and geese, which during the winter swarm into Yün-nan from the north, and without a dog, pheasants are difficult to get. In fact we were greatly disappointed in the game birds, for we had expected good pheasant shooting even along the road and virtually none were to be found.

Although there were quite a few birds, the variety was limited. We were about a month too early for the ducks and geese, which gather in Yün-nan from the north during the winter, and it’s tough to hunt pheasants without a dog. Honestly, we were really let down by the game birds, as we had anticipated good pheasant hunting even along the road, but we hardly found any.

The main caravan roads of Yün-nan held little of interest for us as naturalists, but as students of native customs they were fascinating, for the life of the province passed before us in panoramic completeness. Chinese villages wherever we have seen them are marvels of utter and abandoned filth and although those of Yün-nan are no exception to the rule, they are considerably better than the coast cities.

The main caravan roads of Yün-nan didn't have much that interested us as naturalists, but as students of local customs, they were captivating because the life of the province unfolded before us in a vivid way. Chinese villages, wherever we've encountered them, are astonishingly filthy, and while those in Yün-nan are no different, they are definitely better than the coastal cities.

Pigs, chickens, horses and cows live in happy communion with the human inmates of the houses, the pigs especially being treated as we favor dogs at home. On the door steps children play with the swine, patting and pounding them, and one of my friends said that he had actually seen a mother bring her baby to be nursed by a sow with her family of piglets.

Pigs, chickens, horses, and cows coexist peacefully with the humans living in the houses, with pigs being especially treated like we treat dogs at home. On the doorsteps, children play with the pigs, petting and roughhousing with them, and one of my friends said he actually saw a mother bring her baby to be nursed by a sow with her piglets.

- 91 -

The natives were pleasant and friendly and seemed to be industrious. Wherever the deforestation had left sufficient soil on the lower hillsides patches of corn took the place of the former poppy fields for opium. In 1906, the Empress Dowager issued an edict prohibiting the growing of opium, and gave guarantees to the British that it would be entirely stamped out during the next ten years. Strangely enough these promises have been faithfully kept, and in Yün-nan the hillsides, which were once white with poppy blossoms, are now yellow with corn. In all our 2000 miles of riding over unfrequented trails and in the most out-of-the-way spots we found only one instance where opium was being cultivated.

The locals were nice and friendly and seemed to be hardworking. Wherever deforestation had left enough soil on the lower hillsides, patches of corn replaced the former opium poppy fields. In 1906, the Empress Dowager issued a decree banning opium cultivation and promised the British that it would be completely eradicated in the next ten years. Strangely enough, these promises have been kept, and in Yün-nan, the hillsides that were once covered in white poppy flowers are now filled with yellow corn. During our 2000-mile journey over rarely used trails and in the most remote areas, we only encountered one instance of opium being grown.

The mandarin of each district accompanied by a guard of soldiers makes periodical excursions during the seasons when the poppy is in blossom, cuts down the plants if any are found, and punishes the owners. China deserves the greatest credit for so successfully dealing with a question which affects such a large part of her four hundred millions of people and which presents such unusual difficulties because of its economic importance.

The official of each district, along with a group of soldiers, makes regular visits during the seasons when the poppy is blooming. They cut down any plants they find and punish the owners. China deserves a lot of credit for effectively handling an issue that impacts such a large portion of its four hundred million people and presents unique challenges due to its economic significance.

Just across the frontier in Burma, opium is grown freely and much is smuggled into Yün-nan. Therefore its use has by no means been abandoned, especially in the south of the province, and in some towns it is smoked openly in the tea houses. In August, 1916, just before we reached Yün-nan Fu there was an exposé of opium smuggling which throws an illuminating side light on the corruption of some Chinese officials.

Just across the border in Burma, opium is grown freely, and a lot of it is smuggled into Yün-nan. Because of this, its use hasn’t been completely abandoned, especially in the southern part of the province, where it is openly smoked in tea houses in some towns. In August 1916, just before we arrived in Yün-nan Fu, there was an exposé on opium smuggling that shed light on the corruption of certain Chinese officials.

Opium can be purchased in Yün-nan Fu for two dollars (Mexican) an ounce, while in Shanghai it is - 92 - worth ten dollars (Mexican). Tang (the Military Governor), the Minister of Justice, the Governor's brother and three members of Parliament had collected six hundred pounds of opium which they undertook to transfer to Shanghai.

Opium can be bought in Yün-nan Fu for two dollars (Mexican) an ounce, while in Shanghai it costs ten dollars (Mexican). Tang (the Military Governor), the Minister of Justice, the Governor's brother, and three members of Parliament gathered six hundred pounds of opium, which they promised to transport to Shanghai.

Their request that no examination of their baggage be made by the French during their passage through Tonking was granted, and a similar favor was procured for them at Shanghai. Thus the sixty cases were safely landed, but a few hours later, through the opium combine, foreign detectives learned of the smuggling and the boxes were seized.

Their request that the French not inspect their luggage during their passage through Tonking was approved, and they secured the same favor in Shanghai. As a result, the sixty cases landed safely, but a few hours later, thanks to the opium network, foreign detectives discovered the smuggling, and the boxes were confiscated.

The Minister of Justice denied all knowledge of the opium, as did the three Parliament members, and Governor Tang was not interrogated as that would be quite contrary to the laws of Chinese etiquette; however, he will not receive reappointment when his official term expires.

The Minister of Justice claimed he knew nothing about the opium, just like the three Parliament members, and Governor Tang wasn’t questioned since that would go against Chinese etiquette; however, he will not be reappointed when his official term ends.

As we neared Ta-li Fu, and indeed along the entire road, we were amazed at the prevalence of goitre. At a conservative estimate two out of every five persons were suffering from the disease, some having two, or even three, globules of uneven size hanging from their throats. In one village six out of seven adults were affected, but apparently children under twelve or fourteen years are free from it as we saw no evidences in either sex. Probably the disease is in a large measure due to the drinking water, for it is most prevalent in the limestone regions and seems to be somewhat localized.

As we got closer to Ta-li Fu, and really along the entire road, we were struck by how common goitre was. Even by conservative estimates, two out of every five people were affected by the disease, with some having two or even three uneven-sized lumps hanging from their necks. In one village, six out of seven adults were impacted, but it seemed that children under twelve or fourteen were unaffected, as we didn’t see any signs of it in either gender. This disease is likely largely due to the drinking water, as it's most common in limestone areas and seems to be somewhat localized.

Every day we passed "chairs," or as we named them, "mountain schooners," in each of which a fat Chinaman sprawled while two or four sweating coolies bore him up hill. The chair is rigged between a pair of long bamboo - 93 - poles and consists of two sticks swung by ropes on which is piled a heap of bedding. Overhead a light bamboo frame supports a piece of yellow oil-cloth, which completely shuts in the occupant, except from the front and rear.

Every day we passed "chairs," or as we called them, "mountain schooners," with a heavyset Chinese man lounging inside while two or four sweating coolies carried him up the hill. The chair is set up between a pair of long bamboo poles and is made of two sticks suspended by ropes, topped with a pile of bedding. Above, a light bamboo frame holds a piece of yellow oilcloth that completely encloses the person inside, except at the front and back. - 93 -

The Chinese consider it undignified to walk, or even to ride, and if one is about to make an official visit nothing less than a four-man chair is required. Haste is just as much tabooed in the "front families" as physical exertion, and is utterly incomprehensible to the Chinese. Major Davies says that while he was in Tonking before the railroad to Yün-nan Fu had been constructed, M. Doumer, the Governor-General of French Indo-China, who was a very energetic man, rode to Yün-nan Fu in an extraordinarily short time. While the Europeans greatly admired his feat, the Chinese believed he must be in some difficulty from which only the immediate assistance of the Viceroy of Yün-nan could extricate him.

The Chinese find it undignified to walk or even ride, and if someone is about to make an official visit, nothing less than a four-man chair is needed. Rushing is just as much frowned upon in the "front families" as physical exertion, and it’s completely baffling to the Chinese. Major Davies mentions that while he was in Tonking before the railroad to Yün-nan Fu was built, M. Doumer, the Governor-General of French Indo-China, who was very energetic, rode to Yün-nan Fu in an extraordinarily short time. While the Europeans greatly admired his achievement, the Chinese thought he must be in some sort of trouble that only the immediate help of the Viceroy of Yün-nan could resolve.

In Yün-nan it is necessary to carry one's own bedding for the inns supply nothing but food, and consequently when a Chinaman rides from one city to another he piles a great heap of blankets on his horse's back and climbs on top with his legs astride the animal's neck in front. The horses are trained to a rapid trot instead of a gallop, and I know of no more ridiculous sight than a Chinaman bouncing along a road on the summit of a veritable mountain of bedding with his arms waving and streamers flying in every direction. He is assisted in keeping his balance by broad brass stirrups in which he usually hooks his heels and guides his horse by means of a rawhide bridle decorated with dozens of bangles which make a comforting jingle whenever he moves.

In Yün-nan, you have to bring your own bedding since the inns provide only food. So, when a Chinese man travels from one city to another, he stacks a huge pile of blankets on his horse’s back and climbs on top, straddling the animal’s neck in front. The horses are trained to trot quickly instead of galloping, and there's nothing quite as funny as a Chinese man bouncing along the road on a literal mountain of bedding, arms waving and ribbons flying everywhere. He keeps his balance with wide brass stirrups where he usually hooks his heels, and he guides his horse using a rawhide bridle adorned with lots of bangles that jingle pleasantly whenever he moves.

On the sixth day out when approaching the city of - 94 - Chu-hsuing Fu we took a short cut through the fields leaving the caravan to follow the main road. The trail brought us to a river about forty feet wide spanned by a bridge made from two narrow planks, with a wide median fissure. We led our horses across without trouble and Heller started to follow. He had reached the center of the bridge when his horse shied at the hole, jumped to one side, hung suspended on his belly for a moment, and toppled off into the water.

On the sixth day out, as we were getting close to the city of - 94 - Chu-hsuing Fu, we took a shortcut through the fields, leaving the caravan on the main road. The path led us to a river about forty feet wide, crossed by a bridge made of two narrow planks with a wide gap in the middle. We guided our horses across without any issues, but when Heller started to follow, he had reached the center of the bridge when his horse got startled by the gap, jumped to one side, hung there for a moment on its belly, and then fell into the water.

The performance had all happened behind Heller's back and when he turned about in time to see his horse diving into the river, he stood looking down at him with a most ludicrous expression of surprise and disgust, while the animal climbed out and began to graze as quietly as though nothing had happened.

The whole performance happened without Heller noticing, and when he turned around in time to see his horse jumping into the river, he looked down at it with a ridiculous mix of surprise and disgust, while the horse climbed out and started to graze as if nothing had happened.

Chu-hsuing was interesting as being the home of Miss Cordelia Morgan, a niece of Senator Morgan of Virginia. We found her to be a most charming and determined young woman who had established a mission station in the city under considerable difficulties. The mandarin and other officials by no means wished to have a foreign lady, alone and unattended, settle down among them and become a responsibility which might cause them endless trouble, and although she had rented a house before she arrived, the owner refused to allow her to move in.

Chu-hsuing was notable for being the home of Miss Cordelia Morgan, a niece of Senator Morgan from Virginia. We found her to be a very charming and determined young woman who had set up a mission station in the city despite facing significant challenges. The mandarin and other officials definitely did not want a foreign woman, alone and unaccompanied, to settle among them and become a responsibility that could lead to endless trouble for them. Even though she had rented a house before her arrival, the owner refused to let her move in.

She could get no assistance from the mandarin and was forced to live for two months in a dirty Chinese inn, swarming with vermin, until they realized that she was determined not to be driven away. She eventually obtained a house and while she considers herself comfortable, I doubt if others would care to share her life - 95 - unless they had an equal amount of determination and enthusiasm.

She couldn’t get any help from the official and had to spend two months in a filthy Chinese inn, infested with pests, until they figured out she wasn’t going to be pushed away. She eventually got a house and, while she thinks she’s comfortable, I doubt others would want to live her life 95 unless they had the same level of determination and enthusiasm.

At that time she had not placed her work under the charge of a mission board and was carrying it on independently. Until our arrival she had seen but one white person in a year and a half, was living entirely upon Chinese food, and had tasted no butter or milk in months.

At that time, she hadn't put her work under the management of a mission board and was running it on her own. Until we arrived, she had only seen one white person in a year and a half, was eating only Chinese food, and hadn't had any butter or milk in months.

We had a delightful dinner with Miss Morgan and the next morning as our caravan wound down the long hill past her house she stood at the window to wave good-by. She kept her head behind the curtains, and doubtless if we could have seen her face we would have found tears upon it, for the evening with another woman of her kind had brought to her a breath of the old life which she had resolutely forsaken and which so seldom penetrated to her self-appointed exile.

We had a lovely dinner with Miss Morgan, and the next morning as our caravan made its way down the long hill past her house, she stood at the window to wave goodbye. She kept her head behind the curtains, and if we could have seen her face, we would have likely seen tears on it, because the evening with another woman like her had brought back a hint of the old life she had determinedly left behind and which rarely reached her in her self-imposed exile.

On our ninth day from Yün-nan Fu we had a welcome bit of excitement. We were climbing a long mountain trail to a pass over eight thousand feet high and were near the summit when a boy dashed breathlessly up to the caravan, jabbering wildly in Chinese. It required fifteen minutes of questioning before we finally learned that bandits had attacked a big caravan less than a mile ahead of us and were even then ransacking the loads.

On our ninth day from Yün-nan Fu, we found ourselves in an exhilarating situation. We were making our way up a long mountain trail towards a pass that was over eight thousand feet high. Just as we were approaching the top, a boy ran up to the caravan, panting and speaking rapidly in Chinese. It took us fifteen minutes of questioning to piece together that bandits had attacked a large caravan less than a mile ahead of us and were in the process of looting the cargo.

He said that there were two hundred and fifty of them and that they had killed two mafus; almost immediately a second gesticulating Chinaman appeared and gave the number as three hundred and fifty and the dead as five. Allowing for the universal habit of exaggeration we felt quite sure that there were not more than fifty, and subsequently learned that forty was the correct number and that no one had been killed.

He said there were two hundred and fifty of them and that they had killed two mafus; almost immediately, another animated Chinese man showed up and claimed the number was three hundred and fifty and that five had died. Considering the common tendency to exaggerate, we figured there were probably no more than fifty. Later, we found out the actual number was forty and that no one had been killed.

Our caravan was in a bad place to resist an attack but - 96 - we got out our rifles and made for a village at the top of the pass. There were not more than a half dozen mud houses and in the narrow street between them perfect bedlam reigned. Several small caravans had halted to wait for us, and men, horses, loads, and chairs were packed and jammed together so tightly that it seemed impossible ever to extricate them. Our arrival added to the confusion, but leaving the mafus to scream and chatter among themselves, we scouted ahead to learn the true condition of affairs.

Our caravan was in a tough spot to fend off an attack, but we pulled out our rifles and headed towards a village at the top of the pass. There were no more than six mud houses, and in the narrow street between them, total chaos was happening. Several small caravans had stopped to wait for us, and men, horses, loads, and chairs were packed together so tightly that it looked impossible to get them apart. Our arrival made things more chaotic, but while the mafus screamed and chattered amongst themselves, we moved ahead to check the real situation.

Almost within sight we found the caravan which had been robbed. Paper and cloth were strewn about, loads overturned, and loose mules wandered over the hillside. The frightened mafus were straggling back and told us that about forty bandits had suddenly surrounded the caravan, shooting and brandishing long knives. Instantly the mafus had run for their lives leaving the brigands to rifle the packs unmolested. The goods chiefly belonged to the retiring mandarin of Li-chiang, and included some five thousand dollars worth of jade and gold dust, all of which was taken.

Almost in sight, we found the caravan that had been robbed. Papers and cloth were scattered everywhere, loads were overturned, and loose mules roamed the hillside. The frightened mafus were slowly returning and told us that about forty bandits had suddenly surrounded the caravan, shooting and waving long knives. The mafus immediately ran for their lives, leaving the thieves free to rummage through the packs. The goods mainly belonged to the retiring mandarin of Li-chiang and included around five thousand dollars' worth of jade and gold dust, all of which was taken.

Yün-nan, like most of the outlying provinces of China, is infested with brigands who make traveling very unsafe. There are, of course, organized bands of robbers at all times, but these have been greatly augmented since the rebellion by dismissed soldiers or deserters who have taken to brigandage as the easiest means to avoid starvation.

Yün-nan, like many of the remote provinces in China, is overrun with bandits, making travel very dangerous. There are always organized groups of robbers, but their numbers have significantly increased since the rebellion, as former soldiers or deserters have turned to robbery as the easiest way to escape starvation.

The Chinese Government is totally unable to cope with the situation and makes only half-hearted attempts to punish even the most flagrant robberies, so that unguarded caravans carrying valuable material which arrive at their destination unmolested consider themselves very lucky.

The Chinese Government is completely incapable of handling the situation and only makes half-hearted efforts to punish even the most blatant robberies, so unprotected caravans carrying valuable goods that arrive at their destination without incident feel very lucky.

The Pagoda in Dali

The Dead of China

- 97 -

So far as our expedition was concerned we did not feel great apprehension for it was generally known that we carried but little money and our equipment, except for guns, could not readily be disposed of. Throughout the entire expedition we paid our mafus and servants a part of their wages in advance when they were engaged, and arranged to have money sent by the mandarins or the British American Tobacco Co., to some large town which would be reached after several months. There the balance on salaries was paid and we carried with us only enough money for our daily needs.

As far as our trip was concerned, we weren’t too worried because everyone knew we didn’t have much money and, except for our guns, our gear wasn’t easy to sell. Throughout the entire journey, we paid our mafus and servants part of their wages in advance when we hired them, and we arranged to have money sent by the mandarins or the British American Tobacco Co. to some big town we would reach after several months. There, we settled the remaining salaries, and we only carried enough cash for our daily expenses.

Before we left Yün-nan Fu we were assured by the Foreign Office that we would be furnished with a guard of soldiers—an honor few foreigners escape! The first day out we had four, all armed with umbrellas! These accompanied us to the first camp where they delivered their official message to the yamen and intrusted us to the care of others for our next day's journey.

Before we left Yün-nan Fu, the Foreign Office assured us that we would be provided with a guard of soldiers—an honor that few foreigners avoid! On our first day out, we had four, all armed with umbrellas! They accompanied us to the first camp, where they delivered their official message to the yamen and handed us off to others for our journey the next day.

Sometimes they were equipped with guns of the vintage of 1872, but their cartridges were seldom of the' same caliber as the rifles and in most cases the ubiquitous umbrella was their only weapon. Just what good they would be in a real attack it is difficult to imagine, except to divert attention by breaking the speed limits in running away.

Sometimes they had guns from 1872, but their ammunition was rarely the right fit for the rifles, and most of the time, the only weapon they had was a common umbrella. It's hard to say how useful that would be in a real attack, except for maybe distracting others while they sped away.

Several times in the morning we believed we had escaped them but they always turned up in an hour or two. They were not so much a nuisance as an expense, for custom requires that each be paid twenty cents (Mexican) a day both going and returning. They are of some use in lending an official aspect to an expedition and in - 98 - requisitioning anything which may be needed; also they act as an insurance policy, for if a caravan is robbed a claim can be entered against the government, whereas if the escort is refused the traveler has no redress.

Several times in the morning, we thought we had gotten away from them, but they always showed up an hour or two later. They weren't really a nuisance, more like a financial burden, since it's customary to pay each of them twenty cents (Mexican) a day for both the trip there and back. They do provide some value by giving an official feel to an expedition and helping to requisition anything that might be needed; they also serve as protection, because if a caravan gets robbed, a claim can be filed against the government, whereas if the escort is declined, the traveler has no recourse. - 98 -

It is amusing and often irritating to see the cavalier way in which these men treat other caravans or the peasants along the road. Waving their arms and shouting oaths they shoe horses, mules or chairs out of the way regardless of the confusion into which the approaching caravan may be thrown. They must also be closely watched for they are none too honest and are prone to rely upon the moral support of foreigners to take whatever they wish without the formality of payment.

It’s both amusing and often frustrating to see how casually these men treat other caravans or the farmers along the road. They wave their arms and shout insults as they shove horses, mules, or carts out of the way, completely disregarding the chaos they cause for the caravan coming in. They also need to be kept on a tight leash because they’re not very honest and often depend on the moral backing of outsiders to take whatever they want without bothering to pay for it.

We were especially careful to respect the property on which we camped and to be just in all our dealings with the natives, but it was sometimes difficult to prevent the mafus or soldiers from tearing down fences for firewood or committing similar depredations. Wherever such acts were discovered we made suitable payment and punished the offenders by deducting a part of their wages. Foreigners cannot respect too carefully the rights of the peasants, for upon their conduct rests the reception which will be accorded to all others who follow in their footsteps.

We were especially careful to respect the property where we camped and to be fair in all our dealings with the locals, but it was sometimes hard to stop the mafus or soldiers from tearing down fences for firewood or doing similar damage. Whenever we found such actions, we made appropriate compensation and punished the offenders by docking a portion of their wages. Foreigners need to be very respectful of the rights of the farmers, because their behavior affects how others who come after them will be treated.

- 99 -

CHAPTER XI

TA-LI FU

On Friday, September 28, we were at Chou Chou and camped in a picturesque little temple on the outskirts of the town. As the last stage was only six hours we spent half the morning in taking moving pictures of the caravan and left for Ta-li at eleven-thirty after an early tiffin.

On Friday, September 28, we were at Chou Chou and camped in a charming little temple on the edge of town. Since the last leg was only six hours, we spent half the morning shooting video of the caravan and left for Ta-li at eleven-thirty after a light brunch.

About two o'clock in the afternoon we reached Hsia-kuan, a large commercial town at the lower end of the lake. Its population largely consists of merchants and it is by all means the most important business place of interior Yün-nan; Ta-li, eight miles away, is the residence and official city.

About two o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived at Hsia-kuan, a big commercial town at the southern end of the lake. Most of its population is made up of merchants, and it is definitely the most important business hub in interior Yün-nan; Ta-li, which is eight miles away, serves as the residence and official city.

At Hsia-kuan we called upon the salt commissioner, Mr. Lui, to whom Mr. Bode, the salt inspector at Yün-nan Fu, had very kindly telegraphed money for my account, and after the usual tea and cigarettes we went oil to Ta-li Fu over a perfectly level paved road, which was so slippery that it was well-nigh impossible for either horse or man to move over it faster than a walk.

At Hsia-kuan, we visited the salt commissioner, Mr. Lui, to whom Mr. Bode, the salt inspector at Yün-nan Fu, had generously sent money for my account via telegram. After the usual tea and cigarettes, we headed to Ta-li Fu along a completely flat paved road that was so slippery it was nearly impossible for either horses or people to move any faster than a walk.

This was the hottest day of our experience in Northern Yün-nan, the thermometer registering 85°+ in the shade, which is the usual mid-summer temperature, but the moment the sun dropped behind the mountains it was cool enough for one to enjoy a fire. Even in the winter it is never very cold and its delightful summer should make Northern Yün-nan a wonderful health - 100 - resort for the residents of fever-stricken Burma and Tonking.

This was the hottest day we experienced in Northern Yün-nan, with the thermometer reading over 85° in the shade, which is typical for mid-summer. However, once the sun set behind the mountains, it cooled down enough to enjoy a fire. Even in winter, it’s never that cold, and the lovely summer weather should make Northern Yün-nan an excellent health retreat for people from fever-stricken Burma and Tonkin. 100

We rode toward Ta-li with the beautiful lake on our right hand and on the other the Ts'ang Shan mountains which rise to a height of fourteen thousand feet. As we approached the city we could see dimly outlined against the foothills the slender shafts of three ancient pagodas. They were erected to the feng-shui, the spirits of the "earth, wind, and water," and for fifteen hundred years have stood guard over the stone graves which, in countless thousands, are spread along the foot of the mountains like a vast gray blanket. In the late afternoon sunlight the walls of the city seemed to recede before us and the picturesque gate loomed shadowy and unreal even when we passed through its gloomy arch and clattered up the stone-paved street.

We rode toward Ta-li with the beautiful lake on our right and the Ts'ang Shan mountains on our left, which rise to fourteen thousand feet. As we got closer to the city, we could see the slender outlines of three ancient pagodas against the foothills. They were built for the feng-shui, the spirits of "earth, wind, and water," and have guarded the stone graves that stretch along the base of the mountains like a huge gray blanket for fifteen hundred years. In the late afternoon sunlight, the city walls seemed to recede, and the picturesque gate appeared shadowy and unreal, even as we passed through its gloomy arch and clattered up the stone-paved street.

We soon discovered the residence of Mr. H. G. Evans, agent of the British American Tobacco Company, to whose care our first caravan had been consigned, and he very hospitably invited us to remain with him while we were in Ta-li Fu. This was only the beginning of Mr. Evans' assistance to the Expedition, for he acted as its banker throughout our stay in Yün-nan, cashing checks and transferring money for us whenever we needed funds.

We quickly found the home of Mr. H. G. Evans, the agent of the British American Tobacco Company, to whom our first caravan had been entrusted. He graciously invited us to stay with him while we were in Ta-li Fu. This was just the start of Mr. Evans' help for the Expedition, as he served as our banker during our time in Yün-nan, cashing checks and transferring money for us whenever we needed funds.

The British American Tobacco Company and the Standard Oil Company of New York are veritable "oases in the desert" for travelers because their agencies are found in the most out-of-the-way spots in Asia and their employees are always ready to extend the cordial hospitality of the East to wandering foreigners.

The British American Tobacco Company and the Standard Oil Company of New York are true "oases in the desert" for travelers because their offices are located in the most remote areas of Asia, and their staff are always willing to offer the warm hospitality of the East to wandering foreigners.

Besides Mr. Evans the white residents of Ta-li Fu include the Reverend William J. Hanna, his wife and two - 101 - other ladies, all of the China Inland Mission. Mr. Hanna is doing a really splendid work, especially along educational and medical lines. He has built a beautiful little chapel, a large school, and a dispensary in connection with his house, where he and his wife are occupied every morning treating the minor ills of the natives, Christian and heathen alike.

Besides Mr. Evans, the white residents of Ta-li Fu include the Reverend William J. Hanna, his wife, and two other ladies, all from the China Inland Mission. Mr. Hanna is doing outstanding work, particularly in education and healthcare. He has built a lovely little chapel, a large school, and a dispensary next to his house, where he and his wife spend every morning treating the minor ailments of the locals, both Christian and non-Christian.

Ta-li Fu was the scene of tremendous slaughter at the time of the Mohammedan war, when the Chinese captured the city through the treachery of its commander and turned the streets to rivers of blood. The Mohammedans were almost exterminated, and the ruined stone walls testify to the completeness of the Chinese devastation.

Ta-li Fu was the site of massive bloodshed during the Muslim war when the Chinese took over the city due to the betrayal of its commander, turning the streets into rivers of blood. The Muslims were nearly wiped out, and the crumbling stone walls show just how thorough the Chinese destruction was.

The mandarin at Ta-li Fu was good-natured but dissipated and corrupt. He called upon us the evening of our arrival and almost immediately asked if we had any shotgun cartridges. He remarked that he had a gun but no shells, and as we did not offer to give him any he continued to hint broadly at every opportunity.

The mandarin at Ta-li Fu was friendly but wasted and unscrupulous. He visited us the evening we arrived and almost right away asked if we had any shotgun cartridges. He mentioned that he owned a gun but had no shells, and since we didn't offer to give him any, he kept dropping hints whenever he could.

The mandarins of lower rank often buy their posts and depend upon what they can make in "squeeze" from the natives of their district for reimbursement and a profit on their investment. In almost every case which is brought to them for adjustment the decision is withheld until the magistrate has learned which of the parties is prepared to offer the highest price for a settlement in his favor. The Chinese peasant, accepting this as the established custom, pays the bribe without a murmur if it is not too exorbitant and, in fact, would be exceedingly surprised if "justice" were dispensed in any other way.

The lower-ranking mandarins often buy their positions and rely on what they can extract in "squeeze" from the locals in their districts to recoup their costs and make a profit. Almost every case brought to them for resolution is held up until the magistrate figures out which party is willing to offer the highest bribe for a favorable outcome. The Chinese peasant, seeing this as the norm, pays the bribe without complaint if it isn’t too outrageous and would actually be quite shocked if "justice" was served any other way.

My personal relations with the various mandarins - 102 - whom I was constantly required to visit officially were always of the pleasantest and I was treated with great courtesy. It was apparent wherever we were in China that there was a total lack of antiforeign feeling in both the peasant and official classes and except for the brigands, who are beyond the law, undoubtedly white men can travel in perfect safety anywhere in the republic. Before my first official visit Wu gave me a lesson in etiquette. The Chinese are exceedingly punctilious and it is necessary to conform to their standards of politeness for they do not realize, or accept in excuse, the fact that Western customs differ from their own.

My interactions with the various officials I had to meet for work were always pleasant, and I was treated with great courtesy. It was clear wherever we went in China that there was no real anti-foreign sentiment among either the peasants or the officials, and aside from the outlaws, who are outside the law, white men can travel safely anywhere in the republic. Before my first official meeting, Wu gave me a lesson in etiquette. The Chinese take politeness very seriously, and it’s important to follow their standards of courtesy because they don’t understand, or accept as an excuse, that Western customs are different from theirs. - 102 -

At the end of the reception room in every yamen is a raised platform on which the visitor sits at the left hand of the mandarin; it would be exceedingly rude for a magistrate to seat the caller on his right hand. Tea is always served immediately but is not supposed to be tasted until the official does so himself; the cup must then be lifted to the lips with both hands. Usually when the magistrate sips his tea it is a sign that the interview is ended. When leaving, the mandarin follows his visitor to the doorway of the outer court, while the latter continually bows and protests asking him not to come so far.

At the end of the reception room in every yamen is a raised platform where the visitor sits at the left hand of the mandarin; it would be very disrespectful for a magistrate to have the caller sit on his right hand. Tea is always served right away but is not meant to be tasted until the official does so first; the cup must then be brought to the lips with both hands. Usually, when the magistrate takes a sip of his tea, it signals that the interview is over. When leaving, the mandarin accompanies his visitor to the doorway of the outer court, while the visitor repeatedly bows and insists he shouldn't come that far.

Ta-li Fu and Hsia-kuan are important fur markets and we spent some time investigating the shops. One important find was the panda (Ælurus fulgens). The panda is an aberrant member of the raccoon family but looks rather like a fox; in fact the Chinese call it the "fire fox" because of its beautiful, red fur. Pandas were supposed to be exceedingly rare and we could hardly believe it possible when we saw dozens of coats made from their skins hanging in the fur shops.

Ta-li Fu and Hsia-kuan are key fur markets, and we spent some time checking out the shops. One major discovery was the panda (Ælurus fulgens). The panda is a unique member of the raccoon family but resembles a fox; in fact, the Chinese refer to it as the "fire fox" because of its stunning red fur. Pandas were thought to be extremely rare, so we could hardly believe our eyes when we saw dozens of coats made from their skins hanging in the fur shops.

The Home of Rev. William J. Hanna in Ta-li Fu

The Gate and Main Street of Ta-li Fu

- 103 -

Skins of the huge red-brown flying squirrel, Petaurista yunnanensis, were also used for clothing and the abundance of this animal was almost as great a surprise as the finding of the pandas. This is often true in the case of supposedly rare species. A few specimens may be obtained from the extreme limits of its range, or from a locality where it really is rare, and for years it may be almost unique in museum collections but eventually the proper locality may be visited and the animals found to be abundant.

Skins of the large red-brown flying squirrel, Petaurista yunnanensis, were also used for clothing, and the sheer number of these animals was nearly as surprising as the discovery of the pandas. This is often the case with species that are thought to be rare. You might find a few specimens from the far edges of their range, or from areas where they truly are scarce, and for years they may seem almost unique in museum collections. But eventually, the right location might be explored, and the animals turn out to be plentiful.

We saw several skins of the beautiful cat (Felis temmincki) which, with the snow leopard (Felis uncia), it was said came from Tibet. Civets, bears, foxes, and small cats were being used extensively for furs and pangolins could be purchased in the medicine shops. The scales of the pangolin are considered to be of great value in the treatment of certain diseases and the skins are usually sold by the pound as are the horns of deer, wapiti, gorals, and serows.

We saw several skins of the beautiful cat (Felis temmincki), which, along with the snow leopard (Felis uncia), was said to come from Tibet. Civets, bears, foxes, and small cats were being widely used for their furs, and you could buy pangolins in the medicine shops. The scales of the pangolin are considered very valuable for treating certain diseases, and the skins are typically sold by the pound, just like the horns of deer, wapiti, gorals, and serows.

Almost all of the fossil animals which have been obtained in China by foreigners have been purchased in apothecary shops. If a Chinaman discovers a fossil bed he guards it zealously for it represents an actual gold mine to him. The bones are ground into a fine powder, mixed with an acid, and a phosphate obtained which in reality has a certain value as a tonic. When a considerable amount of faith and Chinese superstition is added its efficacy assumes double proportions.

Almost all of the fossil animals that foreigners have found in China have been bought from apothecary shops. If a Chinese person discovers a fossil bed, they protect it fiercely because it represents a real gold mine to them. The bones are ground into a fine powder, mixed with an acid, and a phosphate is produced that actually has some value as a tonic. When a significant amount of belief and Chinese superstition is added, its effectiveness seems to double.

Every year a few tiger skins find their way to Hsia-kuan from the southern part of the province along the Tonking border, but the good ones are quickly sold at - 104 - prices varying from twenty-five to fifty dollars (Mexican). Ten dollars is the usual price for leopard skins.

Every year, a few tiger skins make their way to Hsia-kuan from the southern part of the province near the Tonking border, but the good ones sell quickly for prices ranging from twenty-five to fifty dollars (Mexican). Ten dollars is the typical price for leopard skins.

Marco Polo visited Ta-li Fu in the thirteenth century and, among other things, he speaks of the fine horses from this part of the province. We were surprised to find that the animals are considerably larger and more heavily built than those of Yün-nan Fu and appear to be better in every way. A good riding horse can be purchased for seventy-five dollars (Mexican) but mules are worth about one hundred and fifty dollars because they are considered better pack animals.

Marco Polo visited Ta-li Fu in the thirteenth century and mentioned, among other things, the excellent horses from this area of the province. We were surprised to discover that these animals are significantly larger and sturdier than those from Yün-nan Fu and seem to be superior in every way. A decent riding horse can be bought for seventy-five Mexican dollars, but mules are valued at around one hundred and fifty dollars because they are regarded as better pack animals.

On the advice of men who had traveled much in the interior of Yün-nan we hired our caravan and riding animals instead of buying them outright, and subsequent experience showed the wisdom of this course. Saddle ponies, which are used only for short trips about the city, cannot endure continual traveling over the execrable roads of the interior where often it is impossible to feed them properly. If an entire caravan were purchased the leader of the expedition would have unceasing trouble with the mafus to insure even ordinary care of the animals, an opportunity would be given for endless "squeeze" in the purchase of food, and there are other reasons too numerous to mention why in this province the plan is impracticable.

On the advice of people who had traveled a lot in the interior of Yün-nan, we rented our caravan and riding animals instead of buying them outright, and later experiences proved that this was the right choice. Saddle ponies, which are only used for short trips around the city, can't handle continuous travel on the terrible roads of the interior where it's often hard to feed them properly. If we had bought an entire caravan, the leader of the expedition would have faced constant issues with the mafus to ensure even basic care for the animals, there would be chances for endless "squeeze" in buying food, and there are many other reasons why this plan is unrealistic in this province.

However, the caravan ponies do try one's patience to the limit. They are trained only to follow a leader, and if one happens to be behind another horse it is well-nigh impossible to persuade it to pass. Beat or kick the beast as one will, it only backs up or crowds closely to the horse in front. On the first day out Heller, who was on a particularly bad animal, when trying to pass one of us began to cavort about like a circus rider, prancing - 105 - from side to side and backward but never going forward. We shouted that we would wait for him to go on but he replied helplessly, "I can't, this horse isn't under my management," and we found very soon that our animals were not under our management either!

However, the caravan ponies really test your patience. They’re only trained to follow a leader, and if one gets stuck behind another horse, it’s nearly impossible to get it to pass. No matter how much you beat or kick the animal, it just backs up or crowds even closer to the horse in front. On the first day out, Heller, who was riding a particularly stubborn horse, started to act like a circus performer when trying to get past one of us, prancing from side to side and backward but never actually moving forward. We shouted that we would wait for him to move on, but he helplessly replied, "I can't, this horse isn't listening to me," and we quickly realized that our animals weren’t listening to us either! 105

In a town near Ta-li Fu we were in front of the caravan with Wu and Heller: Wu stopped to buy a basket of mushrooms but his horse refused to move ahead. Beat as he would, the animal only backed in a circle, ours followed, and in a few moments we were packed together so tightly that it was impossible even to dismount. There we sat, helpless, to the huge delight of the villagers until rescued by a mafu. As soon as he led Wu's horse forward the others proceeded as quietly as lambs.

In a town near Ta-li Fu, we found ourselves in front of the caravan with Wu and Heller. Wu stopped to buy a basket of mushrooms, but his horse refused to move. No matter how much he hit it, the animal just backed up in a circle, and ours followed suit. Soon, we were packed together so tightly that we couldn't even get off our horses. We sat there helpless, much to the amusement of the villagers, until a mafu came to our rescue. As soon as he led Wu's horse forward, the others followed calmly like lambs.

We paid forty cents (Mexican) a day for each animal while traveling, and fifteen or twenty cents when in camp, but the rate varies somewhat in different parts of the province, and in the west and south, along the Burma border fifty cents is the usual price. When a caravan is engaged the necessary mafus are included and they buy food for themselves and beans and hay for the animals.

We paid forty cents (Mexican) a day for each animal while traveling, and fifteen or twenty cents when we were in camp, but the rates can vary a bit in different areas of the province. In the west and south, near the Burma border, fifty cents is the typical price. When a caravan is hired, the necessary mafus are included, and they buy food for themselves as well as beans and hay for the animals.

Ever since leaving Yün-nan Fu the cook we engaged at Paik-hoi had been a source of combined irritation and amusement. He was a lanky, effeminate gentleman who never before had ridden a horse, and who was physically and mentally unable to adapt himself to camp life. After five months in the field he appeared to be as helpless when the caravan camped for the night as when we first started, and he would stand vacantly staring until someone directed him what to do. But he was a good cook, when he wished to exert himself, and had the great - 106 - asset of knowing a considerable amount of English. While we were in Ta-li Fu Mr. Evans overheard him relating his experiences on the road to several of the other servants. "Of course," said the cook, "it is a fine way to see the country, but the riding! My goodness, that's awful! After the third day I didn't know whether to go on or turn back—I was so sore I couldn't sit down even on a chair to say nothing of a horse!"

Ever since we left Yün-nan Fu, the cook we hired in Paik-hoi has been a mix of annoyance and entertainment. He was a tall, slightly feminine guy who had never ridden a horse before and was both physically and mentally unable to adjust to life in the camp. After five months in the field, he seemed just as lost when the caravan stopped for the night as he was when we first began, standing there blankly until someone told him what to do. But he was a decent cook when he felt like it and had the great advantage of knowing quite a bit of English. While we were in Ta-li Fu, Mr. Evans overheard him sharing his experiences on the road with some of the other staff. "Of course," the cook said, "it’s a great way to see the country, but the riding! My goodness, it's terrible! After the third day, I didn’t know whether to keep going or turn back—I was so sore I couldn't sit down, not even on a chair, let alone a horse!"

He had evidently fully made up his mind not to "see the country" that way for the day after we left Ta-li Fu en route to the Tibetan frontier he became violently ill. Although we could find nothing the matter with him he made such a good case for himself that we believed he really was quite sick and treated him accordingly. The following morning, however, he sullenly refused to proceed, and we realized that his illness was of the mind rather than the body. As he had accepted two months' salary in advance and had already sent it to his wife in Paik-hoi, we were in a position to use a certain amount of forceful persuasion which entirely accomplished its object and illness did not trouble him thereafter.

He had clearly decided he didn't want to "see the country" that way, because the day after we left Ta-li Fu on our way to the Tibetan border, he fell seriously ill. Even though we couldn't find anything physically wrong with him, he made such a convincing argument that we thought he was really sick and treated him like he was. However, the next morning, he stubbornly refused to continue, and we realized that his illness was more psychological than physical. Since he had accepted two months' salary in advance and had already sent it to his wife in Paik-hoi, we were able to apply a bit of pressure, which successfully changed his mind, and he wasn't troubled by illness after that.

The loss of a cook is a serious matter to a large expedition. Good meals and varied food must be provided if the personnel is to work at its highest efficiency and cooking requires a vast amount of thought and time. In Yün-nan natives who can cook foreign food are by no means easy to find and when our Paik-hoi gentleman finally left us upon our return to Ta-li Fu we were fortunate in obtaining an exceedingly competent man to take his place through the good offices of Mr. Hanna.

The loss of a cook is a big deal for a large expedition. Good meals and a variety of food are essential if the team is to perform at its best, and cooking takes a lot of thought and time. In Yün-nan, it's not easy to find locals who can prepare foreign cuisine, so when our Paik-hoi gentleman left us on our way back to Ta-li Fu, we were lucky to find an incredibly skilled replacement with the help of Mr. Hanna.

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CHAPTER XII

LI-CHIANG AND "THE TEMPLE OF THE FLOWERS"

We left a part of our outfit with Mr. Evans at Ta-li Fu and with a new caravan of twenty-five animals traveled northward for six days to Li-chiang Fu. By taking a small road we hoped to find good collecting in the pine forests three days from Ta-li, but instead there was a total absence of animal life. The woods were beautiful, parklike stretches which in a country like California would be full of game, but here were silent and deserted. During the fourth and fifth days we were still in the forests, but on the sixth we crossed a pass 10,000 feet high and descended abruptly into a long marshy plain where at the far end were the gray outlines of Li-chiang dimly visible against the mountains.

We left some of our gear with Mr. Evans at Ta-li Fu and with a new caravan of twenty-five animals, traveled north for six days to Li-chiang Fu. We took a smaller road, hoping to find good opportunities to collect in the pine forests three days from Ta-li, but instead, there was a complete lack of animal life. The woods were stunning, reminiscent of park-like areas that in a place like California would be teeming with wildlife, but here they were quiet and deserted. During the fourth and fifth days, we were still in the forests, but on the sixth, we crossed a pass that was 10,000 feet high and then dropped down into a long marshy plain where, at the far end, the gray outlines of Li-chiang were faintly visible against the mountains.

Wu and I galloped ahead to find a temple for our camp, leaving Heller and my wife to follow. A few pages from her journal tell of their entry into the city.

Wu and I rode ahead to find a temple for our campsite, leaving Heller and my wife to catch up. A few pages from her journal describe their entrance into the city.

We rode along a winding stone causeway and halted on the outskirts of the town to wait until the caravan arrived. Neither Roy nor Wu was in sight but we expected that the mafus would ask where they had gone and follow, for of coarse we could not speak a word of the language. Already there was quite a sensation as we came down the street, for our sudden appearance seemed to have stupefied the people with amazement. One old lady looked at me with an indescribable expression and - 108 - uttered what sounded exactly like a long-drawn "Mon Dieu" of disagreeable surprise.

We rode along a winding stone road and stopped on the edge of the town to wait for the caravan to arrive. Neither Roy nor Wu was in sight, but we figured the mafus would ask where they had gone and follow, since we obviously couldn't speak a word of the language. There was already quite a stir as we came down the street, as our sudden appearance seemed to leave the people in shock. One old lady looked at me with an indescribable expression and let out what sounded exactly like a long "Mon Dieu" of unpleasant surprise. - 108 -

I tried smiling at them but they appeared too astonished to appreciate our friendliness and in return merely stared with open mouths and eyes. We halted and immediately the street was blocked by crowds of men, women, and children who poured out of the houses, shops, and cross-streets to gaze in rapt attention. When the caravan arrived we moved on again expecting that the mafus had learned where Roy had gone, but they seemed to be wandering aimlessly through the narrow winding streets. Even though we did not find a camping place we afforded the natives intense delight.

I tried smiling at them, but they looked too shocked to appreciate our friendliness and just stared at us with their mouths and eyes wide open. We stopped, and immediately the street was filled with crowds of men, women, and children who spilled out of the houses, shops, and side streets to watch us with fascination. When the caravan arrived, we moved on again, hoping that the mafus had figured out where Roy had gone, but they seemed to be wandering aimlessly through the narrow, winding streets. Even though we didn’t find a place to camp, we brought great joy to the locals.

I felt as though I were the chief actor in a circus parade at home, but the most remarkable attraction there could not have equaled our unparalleled success in Li-chiang. On the second excursion through the town we passed down a cross-street, and suddenly from a courtyard at the right we heard feminine voices speaking English.

I felt like I was the star performer in a circus parade at home, but the biggest attraction there couldn’t compare to our amazing success in Li-chiang. During our second trip through the town, we went down a side street, and suddenly from a courtyard on the right, we heard women speaking English.

"It's a girl. No, it's a boy. No, no, can't you see her hair, it's a girl!" Just then we caught sight of three ladies, unmistakably foreigners although dressed in Chinese costume. They were Mrs. A. Kok, wife of the resident Pentecostal Missionary, and two assistants, who rushed into the street as soon as they had determined my sex and literally "fell upon my neck." They had not seen a white woman since their arrival there four years ago and it seemed to them that I had suddenly dropped from the sky.

"It's a girl. No, it's a boy. No, no, can't you see her hair, it's a girl!" Just then, we spotted three women who were clearly foreigners, even though they were dressed in traditional Chinese clothing. They were Mrs. A. Kok, the wife of the local Pentecostal Missionary, and two of her assistants, who rushed into the street as soon as they figured out my gender and literally "threw their arms around me." They hadn't seen a white woman since they arrived there four years ago, and it felt to them like I had just dropped out of the sky.

While we were talking Wu appeared to guide us to the camp. They had chosen a beautiful temple with a flower-filled courtyard on the summit of a hill overlooking the city. It was wonderfully clean and when our beds, tables, and chairs were spread on the broad stone porch it seemed like a real home.

While we were talking, Wu showed up to lead us to the camp. They had picked a stunning temple with a courtyard full of flowers on top of a hill that overlooked the city. It was incredibly clean, and when our beds, tables, and chairs were set up on the wide stone porch, it felt like a real home.

One of the pagodas at Ta-li Fu

- 109 -

The next days were busy ones for us all, Roy and Heller setting traps, and I working at my photography. We let it be known that we would pay well for specimens, and there was an almost uninterrupted procession of men and boys carrying long sticks, on which were strung frogs, rats, toads, and snakes. They would simply beam with triumph and enthusiasm. Our fame spread and more came, bringing the most ridiculous tame things—pigeons, maltese cats, dogs, white rabbits, caged birds, and I even believe we might have purchased a girl baby or two, for mothers stood about with little brown kiddies on their backs as though they really would like to offer them to us but hardly dared.

The next few days were hectic for all of us, with Roy and Heller setting traps while I focused on my photography. We made it clear that we would pay well for specimens, and there was almost a continuous stream of men and boys carrying long sticks, on which they had strung frogs, rats, toads, and snakes. They would beam with pride and excitement. Our reputation spread, and more people came, bringing the most absurd domesticated animals—pigeons, Maltese cats, dogs, white rabbits, caged birds, and I even think we might have bought a baby girl or two, as mothers lingered nearby with little brown children on their backs, almost as if they wanted to offer them to us but hesitated.

The temple priest was a good looking, smooth-faced chap, and hidden under his coat he brought dozens of skins. I believe that his religious vows did not allow him to handle animals—openly—and so he would beckon Roy into the darkness of the temple with a most mysterious air, and would extract all sorts of things from his sleeves just like a sleight-of-hand performer. He was a rich man when we left!

The temple priest was a handsome guy with a smooth face, and hidden under his coat, he had dozens of hides. I think his religious vows prevented him from handling animals—at least not openly—so he would signal Roy to come into the shadows of the temple with an air of mystery and pull all kinds of things from his sleeves, just like a magician. He was wealthy by the time we left!

The people are mostly tribesmen—Mosos, Lolos, Tibetans, and many others. The girls wear their hair "bobbed off" in front and with a long plait in back. They wash their hair once—on their wedding day—and then it is wrapped up in turbans for the rest of their lives. The Tibetan women dress their hair in dozens of tiny braids, but I don't believe there is any authority that they ever wash it, or themselves either.

The people are mostly tribespeople—Mosos, Lolos, Tibetans, and many others. The girls have their hair cut short in the front and styled in a long braid in the back. They wash their hair only once—on their wedding day—and then it gets wrapped up in turbans for the rest of their lives. Tibetan women style their hair in dozens of tiny braids, but I don’t think there’s any indication that they ever wash it, or themselves, for that matter.

Li-chiang was our first collecting camp and we never had a better one. On the morning after our arrival Heller found mammals in half his traps, and in the afternoon we each put out a line of forty traps which brought us fifty mammals of eleven species. This was a wonderful relief after the many days of travel through country devoid of animal life.

Li-chiang was our first collecting camp, and we never had a better one. The morning after we arrived, Heller found mammals in half of his traps, and in the afternoon, we each set up a line of forty traps that brought us fifty mammals of eleven species. This was a great relief after many days of traveling through areas with no animal life.

Our traps contained shrews of two species, meadow voles, Asiatic white-footed mice, spiny mice, rats, squirrels, and tree shrews. The small mammals were exceedingly abundant and easy to catch, but after the first day - 110 - we began to have difficulty with the natives who stole our traps. We usually marked them with a bit of cotton, and the boys would follow an entire line down a hedge, taking every one. Sometimes they even brought specimens to us for sale which we knew had been caught in our stolen traps!

Our traps had shrews of two species, meadow voles, Asiatic white-footed mice, spiny mice, rats, squirrels, and tree shrews. The small mammals were super abundant and easy to catch, but after the first day - 110 - we started having problems with the locals who were stealing our traps. We usually marked them with a bit of cotton, and the kids would follow an entire line down a hedge, taking every single one. Sometimes they even brought us specimens to sell that we knew had been caught in our stolen traps!

The traps were set under logs and stumps and in the grass where we found the "runways" or paths which mice, rats and voles often make. These animals begin to move about just after dark, and we usually would inspect our traps with a lantern about nine o'clock in the evening. This not only gave the trap a double chance to be filled but we also secured perfect specimens, for such species as mice and shrews are cannibalistic, and almost every night, if the specimens were not taken out early in the evening, several would be partly eaten.

The traps were set under logs, stumps, and in the grass where we found the "runways" or paths that mice, rats, and voles often use. These animals start to move around just after dark, so we usually checked our traps with a lantern around nine o'clock in the evening. This not only gave the traps a better chance of being filled, but we also got perfect specimens, since mice and shrews can be cannibalistic, and almost every night, if the specimens weren’t removed early in the evening, several would be partially eaten.

Small mammals are often of much greater interest and importance scientifically than large ones, for, especially among the Insectivores, there are many primitive forms which are apparently of ancestral stock and throw light on the evolutionary history of other living groups.

Small mammals are often much more interesting and significant scientifically than larger ones. This is especially true for insectivores, which include many primitive species that seem to be ancestral and provide insights into the evolutionary history of other living groups.

Li-chiang is a fur market of considerable importance for the Tibetans bring down vast quantities of skins for sale and trade. Lambs, goats, foxes, cats, civets, pandas, and flying squirrels hang in the shops and there are dozens of fur dressers who do really excellent tanning.

Li-chiang is a major fur market because Tibetans bring in large amounts of pelts for sale and trade. Lambs, goats, foxes, cats, civets, pandas, and flying squirrels hang in the shops, and there are many talented fur dressers who do an excellent job of tanning.

This city is a most interesting place especially on market day, for its inhabitants represent many different tribes with but comparatively few Chinese. By far the greatest percentage of natives are the Mosos who are semi-Tibetan in their life and customs. They were originally an independent race who ruled a considerable part - 111 - of northern Yün-nan, and Li-chiang was their ancient capital. To the effeminate and "highly civilized" Chinese they are "barbarians," but we found them to be simple, honest and wholly delightful people. Many of those whom we met later had never seen a white woman, and yet their inherent decency was in the greatest contrast to that of the Chinese who consider themselves so immeasurably their superior.

This city is a really interesting place, especially on market day, because its residents come from many different tribes, with very few Chinese people. The majority of the locals are the Mosos, who have semi-Tibetan lifestyles and customs. They were originally an independent group that ruled a significant part of northern Yün-nan, with Li-chiang as their ancient capital. The Chinese, who see themselves as "highly civilized," refer to them as "barbarians," but we found them to be simple, honest, and completely charming people. Many of the locals we met had never even seen a white woman, and their natural decency stood in stark contrast to that of the Chinese, who think of themselves as far superior. - 111 -

The Mosos have large herds of sheep and cattle, and this is the one place in the Orient except in large cities along the coast, where we could obtain fresh milk and butter. As with the Tibetans, buttered tea and tsamba (parched oatmeal) are the great essentials, but they also grow quantities of delicious vegetables and fruit. Buttered tea is prepared by churning fresh butter into hot tea until the two have become well mixed. It is then thickened with finely ground tsamba until a ball is formed which is eaten with the fingers. The combination is distinctly good when the ingredients are fresh, but if the butter happens to be rancid the less said of it the better.

The Mosos have large herds of sheep and cattle, and this is the only place in the East, aside from major cities along the coast, where we can get fresh milk and butter. Similar to the Tibetans, buttered tea and tsamba (parched oatmeal) are the main staples, but they also grow plenty of tasty vegetables and fruit. Buttered tea is made by mixing fresh butter into hot tea until they're well blended. It's then thickened with finely ground tsamba until a ball is formed, which is eaten with the fingers. The combination is really good when the ingredients are fresh, but if the butter is rancid, it’s better not to say much about it.

The natives of this region are largely agriculturists and raise great quantities of squash, turnips, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, onions, corn, peas, beans, oranges, pears, persimmons and nuts. While traveling we filled our saddle pockets with pears and English walnuts or chestnuts and could replenish our stock at almost any village along the road.

The people in this area mainly farm and grow a lot of squash, turnips, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, onions, corn, peas, beans, oranges, pears, persimmons, and nuts. While traveling, we stuffed our saddle pockets with pears and English walnuts or chestnuts and could easily restock at nearly any village along the way.

Everything was absurdly cheap. Eggs were usually about eight cents (Mexican) a dozen, and we could always purchase a chicken for an empty tin can, or two for a bottle. In fact, the latter was the greatest desideratum and when offers of money failed to induce - 112 - a native to pose for the camera a bottle nearly always would decide matters in our favor.

Everything was ridiculously cheap. Eggs were usually around eight cents (Mexican) a dozen, and we could always get a chicken for an empty tin can, or two for a bottle. In fact, the latter was the most sought-after item, and when money offers didn’t convince a local to pose for the camera, a bottle would almost always seal the deal in our favor. - 112 -

In Li-chiang we learned that there was good shooting only twelve miles north of the city on the Snow Mountain range, the highest peak of which rises 18,000 feet above the sea. We left a part of our outfit at Mr. Kok's house and engaged a caravan of seventeen mules to take us to the hunting grounds. Mr. Kok assisted us in numberless ways while we were in the vicinity of Li-chiang and in other parts of the country. He took charge of all our mail, sending it to us by runners, loaned us money when it was difficult to get cash from Ta-li Fu and helped us to engage servants and caravans.

In Li-chiang, we found out that there was great shooting just twelve miles north of the city in the Snow Mountain range, the tallest peak of which rises 18,000 feet above sea level. We left some of our gear at Mr. Kok's house and hired a caravan of seventeen mules to take us to the hunting grounds. Mr. Kok helped us in countless ways while we were near Li-chiang and in other parts of the country. He managed all our mail, sending it to us with runners, lent us money when it was hard to get cash from Ta-li Fu, and helped us hire servants and caravans.

It had rained almost continually for five days and a dense gray curtain of fog hung far down in the valley, but on the morning of October 11 we awoke to find ourselves in another world. We were in a vast amphitheater of encircling mountains, white almost to their bases, rising ridge on ridge, like the foamy billows of a mighty ocean. At the north, silhouetted against the vivid blue of a cloudless sky, towered the great Snow Mountain, its jagged peaks crowned with gold where the morning sun had kissed their summits. We rode toward it across a level rock-strewn plain and watched the fleecy clouds form, and float upward to weave in and out or lose themselves in the vast snow craters beside the glacier. It was an inspiration, that beautiful mountain, lying so white and still in its cradle of dark green trees. Each hour it seemed more wonderful, more dominating in its grandeur, and we were glad to be of the chosen few to look upon its sacred beauty.

It had rained almost non-stop for five days, and a thick gray fog hung low in the valley, but on the morning of October 11, we woke up to find ourselves in a completely different world. We were in a huge amphitheater surrounded by mountains, nearly white at their bases, rising one after another like the foamy waves of a giant ocean. To the north, silhouetted against the bright blue of a clear sky, stood the magnificent Snow Mountain, its jagged peaks crowned with gold where the morning sun had touched their tops. We rode towards it across a flat, rocky plain and watched the fluffy clouds form and drift up, weaving in and out or disappearing into the vast snow-covered craters next to the glacier. That beautiful mountain was truly inspiring, lying there so white and serene in its cradle of dark green trees. With each passing hour, it seemed more breathtaking, more commanding in its majesty, and we felt lucky to be among the few to witness its sacred beauty.

A Moso Shepherd

A Moso Woman

- 113 -

In the early afternoon we camped in a tiny temple which nestled into a grove of spruce trees on the outskirts of a straggling village. To the north the Snow Mountain rose almost above us, and on the east and south a grassy rock-strewn plain rolled away in gentle undulations to a range of hills which jutted into the valley like a great recumbent dragon.

In the early afternoon, we set up camp in a small temple that was tucked away in a grove of spruce trees on the edge of a scattered village. To the north, the Snow Mountain loomed above us, and to the east and south, a grassy plain covered in rocks flowed gently towards a range of hills that jutted into the valley like a massive, lying dragon.

A short time after our camp was established we had a visit from an Austrian botanist, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, who had been in the village for two weeks. He had come to Yün-nan for the Vienna Museum before the war, expecting to remain a year, but already had been there three. Surrounded as he was by Tibet, Burma, and Tonking, his only possible exit was by way of the four-month overland journey to Shanghai. He had little money and for two years had been living on Chinese food. He dined with us in the evening, and his enjoyment of our coffee, bread, kippered herring, and other canned goods was almost pathetic.

A short time after we set up our camp, we received a visit from an Austrian botanist, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, who had been in the village for two weeks. He came to Yün-nan for the Vienna Museum before the war, expecting to stay for a year, but had already been there for three. With Tibet, Burma, and Tonking surrounding him, his only way out was the four-month overland journey to Shanghai. He had very little money and had been living on Chinese food for two years. He joined us for dinner that evening, and his delight in our coffee, bread, kippered herring, and other canned goods was almost heartbreaking.

A week after our arrival Baron Haendel-Mazzetti left for Yün-nan Fu and eventually reached Shanghai which, however, became a closed port to him upon China's entry into the European war. It is to be hoped that his collections, which must be of great scientific value and importance, have arrived at a place of safety long ere this book issues from the press.

A week after we got there, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti left for Yün-nan Fu and eventually made it to Shanghai, but that port was closed to him once China joined the European war. Hopefully, his collections, which must be very valuable and important scientifically, have safely arrived at a secure location long before this book is published.

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CHAPTER XIII

CAMPING IN THE CLOUDS

Camping in the clouds

We hired four Moso hunters in the Snow Mountain village. They were picturesque fellows, supposedly dressed in skins, but their garments were so ragged and patched that it was difficult to determine the original material of which they were made.

We hired four Moso hunters in the Snow Mountain village. They were striking characters, supposedly wearing animal skins, but their clothes were so tattered and patched up that it was hard to tell what they were originally made from.

One of them was armed with a most extraordinary gun which, it was said, came from Tibet. Its barrel was more than six feet long, and the stock was curved like a golf stick. A powder fuse projected from a hole in the side of the barrel, and just behind it on the butt was fastened a forked spring. At his waist the man carried a long coil of rope, the slowly burning end of which was placed in the crotched spring. When about to shoot the native placed the butt of the weapon against his cheek, pressed the spring so that the burning rope's end touched the powder fuse, and off went the gun.

One of them was carrying an incredibly unusual gun that was said to have come from Tibet. The barrel was over six feet long, and the stock was curved like a golf club. A powder fuse stuck out from a hole on the side of the barrel, and just behind it, on the butt, there was a forked spring attached. The man had a long coil of rope at his waist, with the smoldering end placed in the forked spring. When he was ready to shoot, the native pressed the butt of the gun against his cheek, pushed the spring so the burning end of the rope touched the powder fuse, and the gun fired.

The three other hunters carried crossbows and poisoned arrows. They were remarkably good shots and at a distance of one hundred feet could place an arrow in a six-inch circle four times out of five. We found later that crossbows are in common use throughout the more remote parts of Yün-nan and were only another evidence that we had suddenly dropped back into the Middle Ages and, with our high-power rifles and twentieth century equipment, were anachronisms.

The other three hunters had crossbows and poisoned arrows. They were incredibly skilled marksmen and could hit a six-inch target four out of five times from a hundred feet away. We later discovered that crossbows are commonly used in the more remote areas of Yün-nan, which was just another indication that we had unexpectedly gone back to the Middle Ages. With our high-powered rifles and 20th-century gear, we felt like out-of-place relics.

The natives are able to obtain a good deal of game - 115 - even with such primitive weapons for they depend largely upon dogs which bring gorals and serows to bay against a cliff and hold them until the men arrive. The dogs are a mongrel breed which appears to be largely hound, and some are really excellent hunters. White is the usual color but a few are mixed black and brown, or fox red. Hotenfa, one of our Mosos, owned a good pack and we all came to love its big red leader. This fine dog could be depended upon to dig out game if there was any in the mountains, but his life with us was short for he was killed by our first serow. Hotenfa was inconsolable and the tears he shed were in sincere sorrow for the loss of a faithful friend.

The locals can catch a lot of game even with such basic weapons because they rely heavily on dogs that corner gorals and serows against a cliff and hold them until the men arrive. The dogs are a mixed breed that mostly seems to be hound, and some are really great hunters. White is the most common color, but a few are mixed with black and brown, or fox red. Hotenfa, one of our Mosos, had a great pack, and we all grew to love its big red leader. This amazing dog could be counted on to dig out game if any was hiding in the mountains, but his time with us was short because he was killed by our first serow. Hotenfa was heartbroken, and the tears he shed were a genuine expression of his sorrow for the loss of a loyal friend. 115

Almost every family owns a dog. Some of those we saw while passing through Chinese villages were nauseating in their unsightliness, for at least thirty per cent of them were more or less diseased. Barely able to walk, they would stagger across the street or lie in the gutter in indescribable filth. One longed to put them out of their misery with a bullet but, although they seemed to belong to nobody, if one was killed an owner appeared like magic to quarrel over the damages.

Almost every family has a dog. Some of the ones we spotted while passing through Chinese villages were really hard to look at because at least thirty percent of them were more or less sick. Struggling to walk, they would stumble across the street or lie in the gutter in disgusting filth. One wished to end their suffering with a bullet, but even though they seemed to have no owner, if one was killed, an owner would show up out of nowhere to argue about the damages.

The dogs of the non-Chinese tribes were in fairly good condition and there seemed to be comparatively little disease among them. Our hunters treated their hounds kindly and fed them well, but the animals themselves, although loyal to their masters, manifested but little affection. In Korea dogs are eaten by the natives, but none of the tribes with which we came in contact in Yün-nan used them for food.

The dogs of the non-Chinese tribes were in pretty good shape, and there didn't seem to be much illness among them. Our hunters were kind to their hounds and fed them well, but the dogs, while loyal to their owners, showed very little affection. In Korea, people eat dogs, but none of the tribes we encountered in Yün-nan used them as food.

On our first day in the temple Heller went up the Snow Mountain for a reconnaissance and the party secured a fine porcupine. It is quite a different animal - 116 - from the American tree porcupines and represents a genus (Hystrix) which is found in Asia, Africa, and southern Europe. This species lives in burrows and, when hunting big game, we were often greatly annoyed to find that our dogs had followed the trail of one of these animals. We would arrive to see the hounds dancing about the burrow yelping excitedly instead of having a goral at bay as we had expected.

On our first day at the temple, Heller went up Snow Mountain for a scouting mission, and the group managed to catch a decent porcupine. It's quite different from American tree porcupines and belongs to a genus (Hystrix) that is found in Asia, Africa, and southern Europe. This species lives in burrows, and while hunting big game, we were often really frustrated to find that our dogs had tracked one of these animals instead. We would arrive to see the hounds jumping around the burrow, barking excitedly, rather than having a goral cornered as we had hoped. - 116 -

Some of the beautiful black and ivory white quills are more than twelve inches long and very sharp. A porcupine will keep an entire pack of dogs at bay and is almost sure to drive its murderous weapons into the bodies of some of them unless the hunters arrive in a short time. The Mosos eat the flesh which is white and fine.

Some of the beautiful black and ivory white quills are over twelve inches long and very sharp. A porcupine can easily keep a whole pack of dogs away and is likely to drive its deadly quills into a few of them unless the hunters show up soon. The Mosos eat the flesh, which is white and tender.

Although we were only twelve miles from Li-chiang the traps yielded four shrews and one mouse which were new to our collection. The natives brought in three bats which we had not previously seen and began a thriving business in toads and frogs with now and then a snake.

Although we were only twelve miles from Li-chiang, the traps caught four shrews and one mouse that were new to our collection. The locals brought in three bats that we hadn’t seen before and started a successful trade in toads and frogs, with an occasional snake.

The temple was an excellent place for small mammals but it was evident that we would have to move high up on the slopes of the mountain if gorals and other big game were to be obtained. Accordingly, while Heller prepared a number of bat skins we started out on horse-back to hunt a camp site.

The temple was a great spot for small mammals, but it was clear that we needed to go higher up the mountain slopes if we wanted to find gorals and other big game. So, while Heller worked on preparing some bat skins, we set out on horseback to look for a campsite.

It was a glorious day with the sun shining brilliantly from a cloudless sky and just a touch of autumn snap in the air. We crossed the sloping rock-strewn plain to the base of the mountain, and discovered a trail which led up a forested shoulder to the right of the main peaks. An hour of steady climbing brought us to the summit of the ridge where we struck into the woods toward a snow-field on the opposite slope. The trail led us along the brink of a steep escarpment from which we could look over the valley and away into the blue distance toward Li-chiang. Three thousand feet below us the roof of our temple gleamed from among the sheltering pine trees, and the herds of sheep and cattle massed themselves into moving patches on the smooth brown plain.

It was a beautiful day with the sun shining brightly in a clear sky and a hint of autumn chill in the air. We made our way across the sloping, rocky plain to the base of the mountain and found a trail that led up a wooded slope to the right of the main peaks. After an hour of steady climbing, we reached the ridge summit and headed into the woods toward a snow field on the opposite slope. The trail took us along the edge of a steep cliff, where we could see the valley and the distant blue hills toward Li-chiang. Three thousand feet below us, the roof of our temple sparkled among the protective pine trees, and herds of sheep and cattle gathered into moving patches on the smooth brown plain.

The Snowy Mountain

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We pushed our way through the spruce forest with the glistening snow bed as a beacon and suddenly emerged into a flat open meadow overshadowed by the ragged peaks. "What a perfectly wonderful place to camp," we both exclaimed. "If we can only find water, let's come tomorrow."

We made our way through the spruce forest, using the shining snow as a guide, and suddenly came out into a flat open meadow overshadowed by jagged peaks. "What an amazing place to camp," we both said. "If we can just find water, let's come back tomorrow."

The hunters had assured us that there were no streams on this end of the mountain but we hoped to find a snow bank which would supply our camp for a few days at least. We rode slowly up the meadow reveling in the grandeur of the snow-crowned pinnacles and feeling very small and helpless amid surroundings where nature had so magnificently expressed herself.

The hunters had promised us that there were no streams on this side of the mountain, but we hoped to find a snowbank that would keep our camp supplied for at least a few days. We rode slowly through the meadow, savoring the beauty of the snow-covered peaks and feeling very small and helpless in a place where nature had expressed herself so magnificently.

At the far end of the meadow we discovered a dry creek bed which led upward through the dense spruce forest. "Where water has been, water may be again," we argued and, leading the horses, picked our way among the trees and over fallen logs to a fairly open hill slope where we attempted to ride, but our animals were nearly done. After climbing a few feet they stood with heaving sides and trembling legs the breath rasping through distended nostrils. We felt the altitude almost as badly as the horses for the meadow itself was twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea and the air was very thin.

At the far end of the meadow, we found a dry creek bed that went up through the thick spruce forest. "Where there’s been water, there might be water again," we said, and while leading the horses, we navigated through the trees and over fallen logs to a relatively open hillside where we tried to ride, but our horses were nearly exhausted. After climbing a short distance, they stood there with heavy sides and shaking legs, their breath coming in harsh gasps through wide-open nostrils. We felt the altitude almost as much as the horses did, since the meadow itself was twelve thousand feet above sea level and the air was really thin.

- 118 -

There seemed to be no hope of finding even a suitable snow bank when it was slowly borne in upon us that the subdued roaring in our ears was the sound of water and not the effect of altitude as we both imagined. Above and to the left was a sheer cliff, hundreds of feet in height, and as we toiled upward and emerged beyond timber line we caught a glimpse of a silver ribbon streaming down its face. It came from a melting snow crater and we could follow its course with our eyes to where it swung downward along a rock wall not far from the upper end of the meadow. It was so hidden by the trees that had we not climbed above timber line, it never would have been discovered.

There seemed to be no hope of finding even a decent snowbank when it slowly hit us that the muffled roar in our ears was the sound of water and not just the effects of altitude as we both thought. Above and to the left was a steep cliff, hundreds of feet high, and as we hiked upward and broke through the tree line, we caught a glimpse of a silver stream cascading down its face. It came from a melting snow basin, and we could follow its path with our eyes to where it swung down along a rock wall not far from the upper end of the meadow. It was so obscured by the trees that if we hadn’t climbed above the tree line, we would have never discovered it.

This solved the question of our camp and we looked about us happily. On the way through the forest we had noticed small mammal runways under almost every log and, when we stood above the tree limit, the grassy slope was cut by an intricate network of tiny tunnels. These were plainly the work of a meadow vole (Microtus) and at this altitude it certainly would prove to be a species new to our collection.

This figured out our camping situation, and we looked around happily. On our way through the forest, we had noticed small animal pathways under almost every log, and when we stood above the tree line, the grassy slope was crisscrossed by a complex network of tiny tunnels. These were obviously created by a meadow vole (Microtus), and at this altitude, it would definitely be a species new to our collection.

The sun had already dropped behind the mountain and the meadow was in shadow when we reached it again on our homeward way. By five o'clock we were in the temple eating a belated tiffin and making preparations for an early start. But our hopes were idle, for in the morning three of the mules had strayed, and we did not arrive at the meadow until two o'clock in the afternoon.

The sun had already set behind the mountain and the meadow was in shadow when we got back to it on our way home. By five o'clock we were in the temple having a late lunch and getting ready for an early start. But our hopes were in vain, because in the morning three of the mules had wandered off, and we didn’t reach the meadow until two o'clock in the afternoon.

Our camp was made just at the edge of the spruce forest a few hundred yards from the snow stream. As soon as the tents were up we climbed to the grassy slope above timber line, with Heller, to set a string of traps in the vole runways and under logs and stumps in the forest.

Our camp was set up right at the edge of the spruce forest, a few hundred yards from the snow stream. As soon as the tents were up, we hiked to the grassy slope above the tree line with Heller to set a line of traps in the vole runways and under logs and stumps in the forest.

A Cheek Gun Used by One of Our Hunters

The First Goral Killed on the Snow Mountain

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The hunters made their camp beside a huge rock a short distance away and slept in their ragged clothes without a blanket or shelter of any kind. It was delightfully warm, even at this altitude, when the sun was out, but as soon as it disappeared we needed a fire and the nights were freezing cold; yet the natives did not seem to mind it in the slightest and refused our offer of a canvas tent fly.

The hunters set up their camp next to a large rock not far away and slept in their tattered clothes without any blankets or shelter. It was pleasantly warm, even at this altitude, when the sun was shining, but as soon as it went down, we needed a fire because the nights were brutally cold. However, the locals didn't seem to care at all and rejected our offer of a canvas tent cover.

We never will forget that first night on the Snow Mountain. As we sat at dinner about the camp-fire we could see the somber mass of the forest losing itself in the darkness, and felt the unseen presence of the mighty peaks standing guard about our mountain home. We slept, breathing the strong, sweet perfume of the spruce trees and dreamed that we two were wandering alone through the forest opening the treasure boxes of the Wild.

We will never forget that first night on Snow Mountain. As we sat around the campfire having dinner, we could see the dark mass of the forest fading into the night, and we could feel the invisible presence of the towering peaks surrounding our mountain home. We slept, inhaling the strong, sweet scent of the spruce trees and dreamed that we were wandering alone through the forest, discovering the treasures of the Wild.

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CHAPTER XIV

THE FIRST GORAL

The first goral

We were awakened before daylight by Wu's long drawn call to the hunters, "L-a-o-u H-o, L-a-o-u H-o, L-a-o-u H-o." The steady drum of rain on our tent shot a thrill of disappointment through me as I opened my eyes, but before we had crawled out of our sleeping-bags and dressed it lessened to a gentle patter and soon ceased altogether. It left a cold, gray morning with dense clouds weaving in and out among the peaks but, nevertheless, I decided to go out with the hunters to try for goral.

We were woken up before dawn by Wu's drawn-out call to the hunters, "L-a-o-u H-o, L-a-o-u H-o, L-a-o-u H-o." The steady sound of rain hitting our tent sent a wave of disappointment through me as I opened my eyes, but by the time we crawled out of our sleeping bags and got dressed, it had turned into a gentle drizzle and then stopped completely. This left us with a chilly, gray morning and thick clouds weaving in and out among the peaks, but still, I decided to go out with the hunters to try for goral.

Two of the men took the dogs around the base of a high rock shoulder sparsely covered with scrub spruce while I went up the opposite slope accompanied by the other two. We had not been away from camp half an hour when the dogs began to yelp and almost immediately we heard them coming around the summit of the ridge in our direction. The hunters made frantic signs for me to hurry up the steep slope but in the thin air with my heart pounding like a trip hammer I could not go faster than a walk.

Two of the guys took the dogs around the bottom of a tall rocky slope that was only lightly covered with some small spruce trees, while I climbed up the other side with the other two. We hadn’t been away from camp for even half an hour when the dogs started barking, and almost right away, we heard them coming around the top of the ridge toward us. The hunters were waving frantically for me to hurry up the steep slope, but with the thin air and my heart racing like crazy, I couldn’t move any faster than a walk.

We climbed about three hundred yards when suddenly the dogs appeared on the side of the cliff near the summit. Just in front of them was a bounding gray form. The mist closed in and we lost both dogs and animals but ten minutes later a blessed gust of wind drifted the fog away and the goral was indistinctly visible with its back to a rock ledge facing the dogs. The big red leader of the pack now and then dashed in for a nip at the animal's throat but was kept at bay by its vicious lunges and sharp horns.

We climbed about three hundred yards when suddenly the dogs showed up on the side of the cliff near the top. Right in front of them was a leaping gray figure. The mist rolled in, and we lost sight of both the dogs and the animal, but ten minutes later, a refreshing gust of wind blew the fog away, and the goral was faintly visible with its back to a rock ledge, facing the dogs. The big red leader of the pack occasionally rushed in for a bite at the animal's throat but was held back by its fierce lunges and sharp horns.

Hotenfa, one of our Moso hunters, bringing in a goral.

Another Moso Hunter with a Porcupine

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It was nearly three hundred yards away but the cloud was drifting in again and I dropped down for a shot. The hunters were running up the slope, frantically waving for me to come on, thinking it madness to shoot at that distance. I could just see the gray form through the sights and the first two shots spattered the loose rock about a foot low. For the third I got a dead rest over a stone and as the crash of the little Mannlicher echoed up the gorge, the goral threw itself into the air whirling over and over onto the rocks below.

It was almost three hundred yards away, but the cloud was rolling in again, so I crouched down to take a shot. The hunters were racing up the slope, waving frantically for me to hurry, thinking it was crazy to shoot at that distance. I could barely see the gray shape through the sights, and my first two shots hit the loose rock about a foot low. For the third shot, I found a steady rest on a stone, and as the bang of the little Mannlicher echoed up the gorge, the goral leaped into the air, tumbling over and over onto the rocks below.

The hunters, mad with excitement, dashed up the hill and down into the stream bed, and when I arrived the goral lay on a grassy ledge beside the water. The animal was stone dead, for my bullet had passed through its lungs, and, although the front teeth had been smashed on the rocks, its horns were uninjured and the beautiful gray coat was in perfect condition. It so happened that this ram was the largest which we killed on the entire trip.

The hunters, wild with excitement, raced up the hill and down into the stream bed, and when I got there, the goral was lying on a grassy ledge next to the water. The animal was completely dead, as my bullet had gone through its lungs, and even though the front teeth were broken on the rocks, its horns were unharmed and its beautiful gray coat was in perfect shape. As it turned out, this ram was the biggest one we killed on the whole trip.

When the hunters were carrying the goral to camp we met Yvette and Heller on their way to visit the traps just below snow line, and she returned with me to photograph the animal and to watch the ceremonies which I knew would be performed. One of the natives cut a leafy branch, placed the goral upon it and at the first cut chanted a prayer. Then laying several leaves one upon the other he sliced off the tip of the heart, wrapped it carefully in the leaves and placed it in a nearby tree as an offering to the God of the Hunt.

When the hunters were bringing the goral back to camp, we ran into Yvette and Heller on their way to check the traps just below the snow line. She came back with me to take photos of the animal and to see the ceremonies I knew would take place. One of the locals took a leafy branch, put the goral on it, and chanted a prayer as he made the first cut. Then, stacking several leaves on top of each other, he cut off the tip of the heart, wrapped it carefully in the leaves, and placed it in a nearby tree as an offering to the God of the Hunt.

- 122 -

I have often seen the Chinese and Korean hunters perform similar ceremonies at the death of an animal, and the idea that it is necessary to propitiate the God of the Hunt is universal. When I was shooting in Korea in 1912, and also in other parts of China, if luck had been against us for a few days the hunters would invariably ask me to buy a chicken, or some animal to sacrifice for "good joss."

I have often watched Chinese and Korean hunters conduct similar rituals when an animal dies, and the belief that it's important to appease the God of the Hunt is widespread. When I was hunting in Korea in 1912, as well as in other areas of China, if we had been unlucky for a few days, the hunters would always ask me to buy a chicken or some animal to sacrifice for "good fortune."

After each dog had had a taste of the goral's blood we again climbed the cliff at the end of the meadow. When we were nearly 2,000 feet above camp the clouds shut in and, as the impenetrable gray curtain wrapped itself about us, we could only sit quietly and wait for it to drift away.

After each dog had a taste of the goral's blood, we climbed the cliff at the end of the meadow again. When we were almost 2,000 feet above camp, the clouds closed in, and as the thick gray curtain surrounded us, we could only sit quietly and wait for it to move on.

After an hour the fog began to thin and the men sent the hounds toward a talus slope at the base of the highest peak. Almost immediately the big red dog picked up a trail and started across the loose rock with the pack yelping at his heels. We followed as rapidly as possible over such hard going but before we reached the other side the dogs had rounded a sharp pinnacle and disappeared far below us. Expecting that the goral would swing about the base of the peak the hunters sent me back across the talus to watch for a shot, but the animal ran down the valley and into a heavily wooded ravine where the dogs lost his trail only a short distance above camp.

After an hour, the fog started to clear, and the men sent the hounds toward a rocky slope at the bottom of the highest peak. Almost right away, the large red dog picked up a scent and started across the loose stones with the pack barking behind him. We followed as quickly as we could over such tough terrain, but by the time we reached the other side, the dogs had rounded a sharp peak and vanished far below us. Thinking that the goral would circle around the base of the peak, the hunters sent me back across the rocks to look for a shot, but the animal went down the valley and into a dense wooded ravine where the dogs lost his scent not long above camp.

I returned to find that Heller had secured a rich haul from the traps. As we supposed, the runways which Yvette and I had discovered above timber line were made by a meadow vole (Microtus) and in the forest almost every trap had caught a white-footed mouse (Apodemus). He also had several new shrews and we - 123 - caught eight different species of these important little animals at this one camp.

I came back to see that Heller had gotten a great catch from the traps. As we thought, the pathways that Yvette and I had found above the tree line were made by a meadow vole (Microtus), and almost every trap in the forest had caught a white-footed mouse (Apodemus). He also had several new shrews, and we 123 caught eight different species of these important little animals at this one camp.

Wu, the interpreter, hearing us speak of shrews, came to me one day in great perplexity with his Anglo-Chinese dictionary. He had looked up the word "shrew" and found that it meant "a cantankerous woman!"

Wu, the interpreter, overhearing us talk about shrews, approached me one day, quite confused, with his Anglo-Chinese dictionary. He had researched the word "shrew" and discovered that it meant "a difficult woman!"

The following day Heller went out with the hunters and saw two gorals but did not get a shot. In the meantime Yvette and I ran the traps and prepared the small mammals. While we were far up on the mountain-side, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti appeared armed with ropes and an alpine snow ax. He was about to attempt to climb the highest peak which had never been ascended but the drifts turned him back several hundred feet from the summit. He dined at our camp and as all of us carefully refrained from "war talk" we spent a very pleasant evening. During his three years in Yün-nan he had explored and mapped many sections of the province which had not been visited previously by foreigners and from him we obtained much valuable information.

The next day, Heller went out with the hunters and spotted two gorals but didn't get a shot. Meanwhile, Yvette and I checked the traps and prepared the small mammals. While we were far up the mountainside, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti showed up armed with ropes and an alpine snow axe. He was about to try climbing the highest peak, which had never been climbed before, but the snowdrifts turned him back several hundred feet from the top. He had dinner at our camp, and since we all carefully avoided "war talk," we enjoyed a very pleasant evening. During his three years in Yün-nan, he had explored and mapped many areas of the province that had never been visited by foreigners, and we got a lot of valuable information from him.

On the third morning we were up before daylight and I left with the hunters in the gray dawn. We climbed steadily for an hour after leaving camp and, when well up on the mountain-side, skirted the base of a huge peak through a dense forest of spruce and low bamboo thickets, emerging upon a steep grassy meadow; this abutted on a sheer rock wall at the upper end, and below ran into a thick evergreen forest.

On the third morning, we got up before sunrise, and I headed out with the hunters in the dim light of dawn. We hiked steadily for about an hour after leaving camp, and once we were high up on the mountainside, we went around the base of a massive peak through a dense forest of spruce and low bamboo thickets. We came out onto a steep grassy meadow that ended at a sheer rock wall at the top, and below it was a thick evergreen forest.

As we entered the meadow the big red leading dog, trotted off by himself toward the rock wall above us, and in a few moments we heard his sharp yelps near - 124 - the summit. Instantly the pack was off stringing out in a long line up the hillside.

As we walked into the meadow, the big red lead dog ran ahead by himself toward the rock wall above us, and within moments, we heard his sharp barks near the top. Immediately, the pack took off, stretching out in a long line up the hillside. - 124 -

We had nearly crossed the open slope and were standing on the edge of a deep gully when the dogs gave tongue and as soon as the hunters were sure they were coming in our direction we hurried to the bottom of the gorge and began the sharp ascent on the other side. It was almost straight up and before we had gone a hundred feet we were all gasping for breath and my legs seemed like bars of lead, but the staccato yelps of the dogs sounding closer and closer kept us going.

We had almost crossed the open slope and were standing at the edge of a deep gully when the dogs started barking. As soon as the hunters realized they were coming our way, we rushed to the bottom of the gorge and began the steep climb up the other side. It was nearly vertical, and before we had gone a hundred feet, we were all out of breath and my legs felt like they were made of lead. But the sharp barks of the dogs getting closer motivated us to keep moving.

When we finally dropped on the summit of the hill I was absolutely done. I lay flat on my back for a few minutes and got to my knees just as the goral appeared on the opposite cliff. The sight of the magnificent animal bounding like rubber from ledges which his feet seemed hardly to touch down the face of a sheer wall, will remain in my memory as long as I live. He seemed the very spirit of the mountains, a thing born of peaks and crags, vibrant with the breath of the clouds. Selecting a spot which he must touch in the next flying leap, I waited until his body darkened the sights and then pulled the trigger.

When we finally crested the hill, I was completely exhausted. I lay flat on my back for a few minutes and got to my knees just as the goral appeared on the opposite cliff. The sight of the magnificent animal bounding like a rubber ball from ledge to ledge, barely touching the sheer wall, will stay with me for the rest of my life. He seemed to embody the essence of the mountains, a creature born from peaks and crags, alive with the breath of the clouds. Choosing a spot he would reach in his next leap, I waited until his body filled my sights and then pulled the trigger.

The game little brute collapsed, then struggled to his feet, and with a tremendous leap landed on a projecting shelf of rock four yards below. Instantly I fired again and he sank down in a crumpled gray mass not two feet from the edge of the precipice which fell away in a dizzy drop of six hundred feet.

The little brute fell, then got back up, and with a huge leap landed on a ledge of rock four yards below. I immediately fired again, and he crumpled down in a gray heap not two feet from the edge of the cliff that dropped off steeply for six hundred feet.

The dogs were on him long before we had worked our way down the cañon and up to the shelf where he lay. He was a fine ram nearly as large as the first one I had killed. I wanted to rest the dogs for they - 125 - were very tired from their two days of hunting, so I decided to return to camp with the men. On the way a second goral was started but it swung about the summit of the wooded ridge instead of coming in my direction, giving one of the hunters a shot with his crossbow, which he missed.

The dogs had already caught up to him long before we made our way down the canyon and climbed up to the ledge where he was lying. He was a great ram, almost as big as the first one I'd killed. I wanted to give the dogs a break since they were really tired from two days of hunting, so I decided to head back to camp with the guys. On the way, a second goral was startled, but it went around the top of the wooded ridge instead of coming my way, giving one of the hunters a chance to take a shot with his crossbow, which he missed. - 125 -

It was a beautiful day. Above us the sky was clear and blue but the clouds still lay thickly over the meadow and the camp was invisible. The billowy masses clung to the forest line, but from the slopes above them we could look far across the valley into the blue distance where the snow-covered summits of range after range of magnificent mountains lay shining in the sun like beaten silver. There was a strange fascination about those mountains, and I thrilled with the thought that for twelve long months I was free to roam where I willed and explore their hidden mysteries.

It was a gorgeous day. The sky above us was clear and blue, but the clouds still hung thick over the meadow, hiding the camp from view. The fluffy clouds clung to the edge of the forest, but from the higher slopes, we could gaze far across the valley into the blue distance, where the snow-covered peaks of one beautiful mountain range after another sparkled in the sunlight like polished silver. There was something oddly captivating about those mountains, and I felt a rush of excitement knowing that for a whole year, I was free to wander wherever I wanted and discover their hidden secrets.

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CHAPTER XV

MORE GORALS

MORE GOATS

Both gorals were fine old rams with perfect horns. Their hair was thick and soft, pale olive-buff tipped with brownish, and the legs on the "cannon bones" were buff-yellow like the margins of the throat patches. Their color made them practically invisible against the rocks and when I killed the second goral my only distinct impression as he dashed down the face of the precipice, was of four yellowish legs entirely separated from a body which I could hardly see.

Both gorals were impressive older rams with perfect horns. Their fur was thick and soft, a pale olive-buff with brownish tips, and their legs on the "cannon bones" were buff-yellow like the edges of the throat patches. Their coloring made them nearly invisible against the rocks, and when I shot the second goral, my only clear impression as it rushed down the cliff was of four yellowish legs completely detached from a body that I could hardly see.

This invisibility, combined with the fact that the Snow Mountain gorals lived on almost inaccessible cliffs thickly covered with scrub spruce forest, made "still hunting" impossible. In fact. Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, who had explored this part of the Snow Mountains fairly thoroughly in his search for plants, had never seen a goral, and did not know that such an animal existed there.

This invisibility, along with the fact that the Snow Mountain gorals lived on nearly unreachable cliffs densely covered with scrub spruce forest, made "still hunting" impossible. In fact, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, who had explored this area of the Snow Mountains pretty thoroughly while looking for plants, had never seen a goral and didn’t even know that such an animal existed there.

Heller hunted for two days in succession and, although he saw several gorals, he was not successful in getting one until we had been in camp almost a week. His was a young male not more than a year old with horns about an inch long. It was a valuable addition to our collection for I was anxious to obtain specimens of various ages to be mounted as a "habitat group" in the Museum and we lacked only a female.

Heller went hunting for two days in a row, and even though he spotted several gorals, he didn't manage to catch one until we had been at camp for almost a week. The one he got was a young male, no more than a year old, with horns around an inch long. It was a great addition to our collection because I wanted to get specimens of different ages to display as a "habitat group" in the Museum, and we only needed a female to complete it.

The preparation of the group required the greatest - 127 - care and study. First, we selected a proper spot to reproduce in the Museum, and Yvette took a series of natural color photographs to guide the artist in painting the background. Next she made detail photographs of the surroundings. Then we collected portions of the rocks and typical bits of vegetation such as moss and leaves, to be either dried or preserved in formalin. In a large group, perhaps several thousand leaves will be required, but the field naturalist need select typical specimens of only five or six different sizes from each of which a plaster mold can be made at the Museum and the leaves reproduced in wax.

The group's preparation needed a lot of careful planning and research. First, we picked a good location to recreate in the Museum, and Yvette took a series of natural color photos to help the artist paint the background. Next, she took detailed photos of the area. Then we gathered samples of the rocks and typical plants like moss and leaves, either to dry or preserve in formalin. For a large collection, we might need several thousand leaves, but the field naturalist only needs to pick typical specimens in five or six different sizes. From these, a plaster mold can be made at the Museum, and the leaves will be reproduced in wax.

After two days of rain during which I had a hard and unsuccessful hunt for serows we decided to return to the temple at the foot of the mountain which was nearer to the forests inhabited by these animals. We had already been in our camp on the meadow for nine days and, besides the gorals, had gathered a large and valuable collection of small mammals. The shrews were especially varied in species and, besides a splendid series of meadow voles, Asiatic mice and rats, we obtained a new weasel and a single specimen of a tiny rock-cony or little chief hare, an Asiatic genus (Ochotona) which is also found in the western part of North America on the high slopes of the Rocky Mountains. Although we set dozens of traps among the rocks we did not get another on the entire expedition nor did we see indications of their presence in other localities.

After two days of rain during which I had a tough and unsuccessful search for serows, we decided to head back to the temple at the base of the mountain that was closer to the forests where these animals live. We had already been in our camp on the meadow for nine days and, along with the gorals, we had collected a large and valuable assortment of small mammals. The shrews were particularly diverse in species, and besides a great collection of meadow voles, Asiatic mice, and rats, we found a new weasel and one specimen of a tiny rock-cony, or little chief hare, an Asiatic genus (Ochotona) that is also found in the western part of North America on the high slopes of the Rocky Mountains. Even though we set dozens of traps among the rocks, we didn’t catch another one during the whole expedition, nor did we see any signs of their presence in other areas.

The almost complete absence of carnivores at this camp was a great surprise. Except for weasels we saw no others and the hunters said that foxes or civets did not occur on this side of the mountain even though food was abundant.

The almost complete lack of carnivores at this camp was quite surprising. Aside from weasels, we didn't see any others, and the hunters mentioned that foxes or civets weren't found on this side of the mountain, even though food was plentiful.

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On the day before we went to the temple I had a magnificent hunt. We left camp at daylight in a heavy fog and almost at once the dogs took up a serow trail. We heard them coming toward us as we stood at the upper edge of a little meadow and expected the animal to break cover any moment, but it turned down the mountain and the hounds lost the trail in the thick spruce woods.

On the day before we went to the temple, I had an incredible hunt. We left camp at dawn in a thick fog, and almost right away the dogs picked up a serow trail. We heard them approaching as we stood at the top edge of a small meadow, expecting the animal to come out at any moment. However, it turned down the mountain, and the hounds lost the trail in the dense spruce forest.

We climbed slowly toward the cliffs until we were well above the clouds, which lay in a thick white blanket over the camp, and headed for the cañon where I had shot my second goral. Hotenfa wished to go lower down into the forests but I prevailed upon him to stay along the open slopes and, while we were resting, the big red dog suddenly gave tongue on a ridge above and to the right of us. It was in the exact spot where my second goral had been started and we were on the qui vive when the rest of the pack dashed up the mountain-side to join their leader.

We climbed slowly toward the cliffs until we were well above the clouds, which formed a thick white blanket over the camp, and headed for the canyon where I had shot my second goral. Hotenfa wanted to go lower into the forests, but I convinced him to stay on the open slopes. While we were resting, the big red dog suddenly barked from a ridge above and to our right. It was exactly where I had started my second goral, and we were on high alert when the rest of the pack rushed up the mountainside to join their leader.

In a few moments they all gave tongue and we heard them swinging about in our direction. Just then the clouds, which had been lying in a solid bank below us, began to drift upward in a long, thin finger toward the cañon. On and on it came, and closer sounded the yelps of the dogs. I was trembling with impatience and swearing softly as the gray vapor streamed into the gorge. The cloud thickened, sweeping rapidly up the ravine, until we were enveloped so completely that I could hardly see the length of my gun barrel. A moment later we heard the goral leaping down the cliff not a hundred yards away.

In just a few moments, they all started barking, and we heard them moving toward us. At that moment, the clouds that had been sitting in a solid bank below us began to drift upward in a long, thin wispy finger toward the canyon. It kept coming closer, and the dogs' yelps grew louder. I was shaking with impatience and quietly cursing as the gray mist filled the gorge. The cloud thickened, rapidly rising up the ravine, until we were completely surrounded, and I could barely see the length of my gun barrel. A moment later, we heard the goral jumping down the cliff less than a hundred yards away.

With the rifle useless in my hands I listened to each hoof beat and the stones which his flying feet sent - 129 - rattling into the gorge. Then the dogs came past, and we heard them follow down the rocks, their yelps growing fainter and fainter in the valley far below. The goral was lost, and as though the Fates were laughing at us, ten minutes later a puff of wind sucked the cloud out of the cañon as swiftly as it had come, and above us shone a sky as clear and blue as a tropic sea.

With the rifle useless in my hands, I listened to each hoofbeat and the rocks that his flying feet sent tumbling into the gorge. Then the dogs raced past, and we heard them follow down the rocks, their yelps growing softer and softer in the valley far below. The goral was gone, and as if the Fates were mocking us, ten minutes later a gust of wind pulled the cloud out of the canyon just as quickly as it had appeared, revealing a sky as clear and blue as a tropical sea. - 129 -

Hotenfa's disgust more than equaled my own for I had loaned him my three-barrel gun (12 gauge and .808 Savage) and he was as excited as a child with a new toy. He was a remarkably intelligent man and mastered the safety catches in a short time even though he had never before seen a breach-loading gun.

Hotenfa's disgust matched my own because I had lent him my three-barrel gun (12 gauge and .808 Savage), and he was as thrilled as a kid with a new toy. He was an incredibly smart guy and figured out the safety catches quickly, even though he had never seen a breach-loading gun before.

There was nothing to do but hurry down the mountain for the dogs might bring the goral to bay on one of the cliffs below us, and in twenty minutes we stood on a ridge which jutted out from the thick spruce forest. One of the hunters picked his way down the rock wall while Hotenfa and I circled the top of the spur.

There was nothing to do but hurry down the mountain because the dogs might drive the goral onto one of the cliffs below us. In twenty minutes, we found ourselves on a ridge that stuck out from the dense spruce forest. One of the hunters carefully made his way down the rock wall while Hotenfa and I went around the top of the spur.

We had not gone a hundred yards when the hunter shouted that a goral was running in our direction. Hotenfa reached the edge of the ridge before me, and I saw him fire with the three-barrel gun at a goral which disappeared into the brush. His bullet struck the dirt only a few feet behind the animal although it must have been well beyond a hundred yards and almost straight below us.

We hadn't gone a hundred yards when the hunter yelled that a goral was running our way. Hotenfa got to the edge of the ridge ahead of me, and I saw him shoot with the three-barrel gun at a goral that vanished into the brush. His bullet hit the ground just a few feet behind the animal, even though it had to be more than a hundred yards away and almost directly below us.

Hardly had we drawn back when a yell from the other hunter brought us again to the edge of the cliff just in time to see a second goral dash into the forest a good three hundred yards away in the very bottom of the gorge.

Hardly had we pulled back when a shout from the other hunter called us back to the edge of the cliff just in time to see another goral sprint into the forest about three hundred yards away at the bottom of the gorge.

Rather disappointed we continued along the ridge and - 130 - Hotenfa made signs which said as plainly as words, "I told you so. The gorals are not on the peaks but down in the forest. We ought to have come here first."

Rather disappointed, we continued along the ridge and - 130 - Hotenfa gestured clearly, saying, "I told you so. The gorals aren't on the peaks; they're down in the forest. We should have come here first."

There were not many moments for regret, however, for this was "our busy day." Suddenly a burst of frantic yelps from the red dog turned us off to the left and we heard him nearing the summit of the spur which we had just left. One of the other hunters was standing there and his crossbow twanged as the goral passed only a few yards from him, but the wicked little poisoned dart stuck quivering into a tree a few inches above the animal's back.

There weren’t many chances for regret, though, because this was "our busy day." Suddenly, a loud series of frantic barks from the red dog diverted us to the left, and we heard him getting close to the top of the ridge we had just left. One of the other hunters was standing there, and his crossbow let out a twang as the goral passed just a few yards from him, but the sneaky little poisoned dart ended up quivering in a tree a few inches above the animal's back.

The goral dashed over the ridge almost on top of the second hunter who was too surprised to shoot and only yelled that it was coming toward us on the cliff below. Hotenfa leaped from rock to rock, almost like a goat himself, and dashed through the bushes toward a jutting shelf which overhung the gorge.

The goral sprinted over the ridge right above the second hunter, who was too shocked to pull the trigger and just shouted that it was heading our way on the cliff below. Hotenfa jumped from rock to rock, almost like a goat, and raced through the bushes toward a ledge that hung over the gorge.

We reached the rim at the same moment and saw a huge ram standing on a narrow ledge a hundred yards below. I fired instantly and the noble animal, with feet wide spread, and head thrown back, launched himself into space falling six hundred feet to the rocks beneath us.

We reached the edge at the same time and saw a massive ram standing on a narrow ledge a hundred yards below. I shot right away, and the majestic animal, with its feet spread wide and head thrown back, leaped into the air, falling six hundred feet to the rocks below us.

As the goral leaped Hotenfa seemed suddenly to go insane. Yelling with joy, he threw his arms about my neck, rubbing my face with his and pounding me on the back until I thought he would throw us both off the cliff. I was utterly dumbfounded but seized his three-barrel gun to unload it for in his excitement there was imminent danger that he would shoot either himself or me.

As the goral jumped, Hotenfa suddenly seemed to go crazy. Yelling with excitement, he wrapped his arms around my neck, rubbed his face against mine, and pounded my back until I thought he might toss us both off the cliff. I was completely taken aback but grabbed his three-barrel gun to unload it, since in his excitement there was a real risk he might accidentally shoot either himself or me.

Then I realized what it was all about. We had both - 131 - fired simultaneously and neither had heard the other's shot. By mistake Hotenfa had discharged a load of buckshot and it was my bullet which had killed the goral but his joy was so great that I would not for anything have disillusioned him.

Then I understood what was happening. We had both - 131 - shot at the same time and neither of us heard the other's shot. By accident, Hotenfa had fired a round of buckshot, and it was my bullet that had taken down the goral, but his joy was so immense that I wouldn’t have wanted to spoil it for him.

It was a half hour's hard work to get to the place where the goral had fallen. The dogs were already there lying quietly beside the animal when we arrived. My bullet had entered the back just in front of the hind leg and ranged forward through the lungs flattening itself against the breast bone; the jacket had split, one piece tearing into the heart, so that the ram was probably dead before it struck the rocks.

It took about half an hour of tough work to reach the spot where the goral had fallen. The dogs were already there, lying quietly next to the animal when we got there. My bullet had entered the back just in front of the hind leg and traveled forward through the lungs, flattening itself against the breastbone; the jacket had split, with one piece tearing into the heart, so the ram was probably dead before it hit the rocks.

I photographed the goral where it lay and after it had been eviscerated, and the hunters had performed their ceremonies to the God of the Hunt, I sent one of them back with it while Hotenfa and I worked toward the bottom of the cañon in the hope of finding the other animals.

I took a photo of the goral where it lay after it had been disemboweled, and once the hunters had done their rituals to the God of the Hunt, I sent one of them back with it while Hotenfa and I made our way toward the bottom of the canyon, hoping to find the other animals.

It was a delightfully warm day and Hotenfa told me in his vivid sign language that the gorals were likely to be asleep on the sunny side of the ravine; therefore we worked up the opposite slope.

It was a pleasantly warm day, and Hotenfa communicated to me through his expressive sign language that the gorals were probably asleep on the sunny side of the ravine; so we made our way up the opposite slope.

It was the hardest kind of climbing and for two hours we plodded steadily upward, clinging by feet and hands to bushes and rocks, and were almost exhausted when we reached a small open patch of grass about two thirds of the way to the summit.

It was the toughest kind of climbing, and for two hours we trudged steadily upward, gripping onto bushes and rocks with our hands and feet, and we were nearly worn out by the time we reached a small clearing of grass about two-thirds of the way to the top.

We rested for half an hour and, after a light tiffin, toiled on again. I had not gone thirty feet, and Hotenfa was still sitting down, when I saw him wave his arm excitedly and throw up his gun to shoot. I leaped down to his side just as he fired at a big female goral which - 132 - was sound asleep in an open patch of grass on the mountain-side.

We took a break for half an hour, and after a quick snack, we got back to work. I hadn't walked thirty feet, and Hotenfa was still sitting, when I saw him waving his arm excitedly and raising his gun to shoot. I jumped down to his side just as he fired at a large female goral that was fast asleep in a sunny patch of grass on the mountainside. - 132 -

Hotenfa's bullet broke the animal's foreleg at the knee but without the slightest sign of injury she dashed down the cliff. I fired as she ran, striking her squarely in the heart, and she pitched headlong into the bushes a hundred feet below.

Hotenfa's bullet shattered the animal's foreleg at the knee, but without any visible injury, she rushed down the cliff. I shot as she ran, hitting her directly in the heart, and she fell headfirst into the bushes a hundred feet below.

How Hotenfa managed to pack that animal to the summit of the ridge I never can understand, for with a light sack upon my back and a rifle it was all I could do to pull myself up the rocks. He was completely done when we finally threw ourselves on the grass at the edge of the meadow which we had left in the morning. Hotenfa chanted his prayer when we opened the goral, but the God of the Hunt missed his offering for my bullet had smashed the heart to a pulp.

How Hotenfa managed to carry that animal to the top of the ridge, I’ll never understand, because with just a light pack on my back and a rifle, it was all I could do to pull myself up the rocks. He was completely spent when we finally threw ourselves onto the grass at the edge of the meadow we had left that morning. Hotenfa chanted his prayer when we opened the goral, but the God of the Hunt missed his offering because my bullet had turned the heart to mush.

On our way back to camp the red dog, although dead tired, disappeared alone into the heavy forest below us. Suddenly we heard his deep bay coming up the hill in our direction. Hotenfa and I dropped our burdens and ran to an opening in the forest where we thought the animal must pass.

On our way back to camp, the red dog, even though he was exhausted, wandered off alone into the thick forest below us. Suddenly, we heard his deep bark coming up the hill toward us. Hotenfa and I dropped what we were carrying and ran to a clearing in the forest where we thought the dog would come through.

Instead of coming out where we expected, the dog appeared higher up at the heels of a crested muntjac (Elaphodus), which was bounding along at full speed, its white flag standing straight up over its dark bluish back. I had one chance for a shot at about one hundred and fifty yards as the pair crossed a little opening in the trees, but it was too dangerous to shoot for, had I missed the deer, the dog certainly would have been killed.

Instead of coming out where we thought it would, the dog showed up higher up, chasing a crested muntjac (Elaphodus) that was running full speed, its white tail flag raised over its dark bluish back. I had one shot at about one hundred and fifty yards as they crossed a small gap in the trees, but it was too risky to take the shot; if I missed the deer, the dog would definitely have been killed.

A Typical Goral Cliff on the Snow Mountain

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I was heart-broken over losing this animal, for it is an exceedingly rare species, but a few days later a shepherd brought in another which had been wounded by one of our Lolo hunters and had run down into the plains to die.

I was heartbroken about losing this animal because it's an extremely rare species, but a few days later a shepherd brought in another one that had been wounded by one of our Lolo hunters and had run down into the plains to die.

When we reached the hill above camp Yvette ran out to meet us, falling over logs and bushes in her eagerness to see what we were carrying. No dinner which I have ever eaten tasted like the one we had of goral steak that night and after a smoke I crawled into my sleeping bag, dead tired in body but with a happy heart.

When we got to the hill above camp, Yvette rushed out to greet us, tripping over logs and bushes in her excitement to see what we were bringing. No dinner I’ve ever had tasted as good as the goral steak we had that night, and after a smoke, I crawled into my sleeping bag, completely exhausted but with a happy heart.

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CHAPTER XVI

THE SNOW MOUNTAIN TEMPLE

Snow Mountain Temple

On October 22, we moved to the foot of the mountain and camped in the temple which we had formerly occupied. This was directly below the forests inhabited by serow, and we expected to devote our efforts exclusively toward obtaining a representative series of these animals.

On October 22, we set up camp at the base of the mountain in the temple we had used before. This spot was right below the forests where serow lived, and we planned to focus all our efforts on collecting a proper series of these animals.

Unfortunately I developed a severe infection in the palm of my right hand almost immediately, and had it not been for the devoted care of my wife I should not have left China alive. Through terrible nights of delirium when the poison was threatening to spread over my entire body, she nursed me with an utter disregard of her own health and slept only during a few restless hours of complete exhaustion. For three weeks I could do no work but at last was able to bend my "trigger finger" and resume hunting although I did not entirely recover the use of my hand for several months.

Unfortunately, I developed a severe infection in the palm of my right hand almost immediately, and if it hadn't been for the devoted care of my wife, I wouldn't have made it out of China alive. During the terrible nights of delirium when the poison threatened to spread throughout my body, she tended to me with complete disregard for her own health and only managed to sleep for a few restless hours out of sheer exhaustion. For three weeks, I was unable to work, but eventually, I could bend my "trigger finger" and get back to hunting, although it took several months to fully regain the use of my hand.

However, the work of the expedition by no means ceased because of my illness. Mr. Heller continued to collect small mammals with great energy and the day after we arrived at the temple we engaged eight new native hunters. These were Lolos, a wandering unit from the independent tribe of S'suchuan and they proved to be excellent men.

However, the work of the expedition definitely didn't stop because of my illness. Mr. Heller kept collecting small mammals with a lot of enthusiasm, and the day after we got to the temple, we hired eight new local hunters. These were Lolos, a nomadic group from the independent tribe of S'suchuan, and they turned out to be outstanding.

The first serow was killed by Hotenfa's party on our third day in the temple. Heller went out with the hunters - 135 - but in a few hours returned alone. A short time after he had left the natives the dogs took up the trail of a huge serow and followed it for three miles through the spruce forest. They finally brought the animal to bay against a cliff and a furious fight ensued. One dog was ripped wide open, another received a horn-thrust in the side, and the big red leader was thrown over a cliff to the rocks below. More of the hounds undoubtedly would have been killed had not the hunters arrived and shot the animal.

The first serow was killed by Hotenfa's group on our third day at the temple. Heller went out with the hunters but returned alone a few hours later. Shortly after he left the locals, the dogs picked up the scent of a massive serow and tracked it for three miles through the spruce forest. They eventually backed the animal against a cliff, leading to a furious struggle. One dog was badly injured, another was gored in the side, and the big red leader was thrown over a cliff to the rocks below. More of the dogs would likely have been killed if the hunters hadn't arrived and shot the animal. - 135 -

The men brought the serow in late at night but our joy was considerably dampened by the loss of the red dog. Hotenfa carried him in his arms and laid him gently on a blanket in the temple but the splendid animal died during the night. His master cried like a child and I am sure that he felt more real sorrow than he would have shown at the loss of his wife; for wives are much easier to get in China than good hunting dogs.

The men brought in the serow late at night, but our happiness was really overshadowed by the loss of the red dog. Hotenfa carried him in his arms and gently laid him on a blanket in the temple, but the beautiful animal died during the night. His owner cried like a child, and I’m sure he felt more genuine grief than he would have shown for the loss of his wife; after all, it's much easier to find a wife in China than it is to find a good hunting dog.

The serow was an adult male, badly scarred from fighting, and had lost one horn by falling over a cliff when he was killed. He was brownish black, with rusty red lower legs and a whitish mane. His right horn was nine and three-quarters inches in length and five and three-quarters inches in circumference at the base and the effectiveness with which he had used his horns against the dogs demonstrated that they were by no means only for ornaments. In the next chapter the habits and relationships of the gorals and serows will be considered more fully.

The serow was a fully grown male, heavily scarred from fights, and had lost one horn after falling off a cliff when he was killed. He was brownish-black, with rusty red lower legs and a whitish mane. His right horn measured nine and three-quarters inches long and five and three-quarters inches around at the base, and the way he had used his horns against the dogs showed that they were definitely not just for show. In the next chapter, we'll take a closer look at the habits and relationships of the gorals and serows.

On the morning following the capture of the first serow the last rain of the season began and continued for nine days almost without ceasing. The weather made - 136 - hunting practically impossible for the fog hung so thickly over the woods that one could not see a hundred feet and Heller found that many of his small traps were sprung by the raindrops. The Lolos had disappeared, and we believed that they had returned to their village, but they had been hunting in spite of the weather and on the fifth day arrived with a fine male serow in perfect condition. It showed a most interesting color variation for, instead of red, the lower legs were buff with hardly a tinge of reddish.

On the morning after we caught the first serow, the last rain of the season started and kept going for nine days straight. The weather made hunting nearly impossible because the fog was so thick in the woods that you couldn't see more than a hundred feet. Heller noticed that many of his small traps had been triggered by the raindrops. The Lolos had vanished, and we thought they had gone back to their village, but they had been hunting despite the weather and showed up on the fifth day with an impressive male serow in perfect shape. It had a really interesting color contrast; instead of being red, its lower legs were a buff color with hardly any hint of red.

November 2, the sun rose in an absolutely cloudless sky and during the remainder of the winter we had as perfect weather as one could wish. Yvette's constant mussing and efficient surgery combined with the devotion of our interpreter, Wu, had checked the spread of the poison in my hand and my nights were no longer haunted with the strange fancies of delirium, but I was as helpless as a babe. I could do nothing but sit with steaming cloths wrapped about my arm and rail at the fate which kept me useless in the temple.

November 2, the sun rose in a completely clear sky, and for the rest of the winter, we had perfect weather. Yvette's ongoing care and skillful treatment, along with our interpreter Wu's dedication, had stopped the poison from spreading in my hand. My nights were no longer tormented by bizarre delusions, but I felt as helpless as a baby. All I could do was sit with warm cloths wrapped around my arm and complain about the fate that kept me helpless in the temple.

The Lolos killed a third serow on the mountain just above our camp but the animal fell into a rock fissure more than a hundred feet deep and was recovered only after a day's hard work. The men wove a swinging ladder from tough vines, climbed down it, and drew the serow bodily up the cliff; as it weighed nearly three hundred pounds this was by no means an easy undertaking.

The Lolos hunted a third serow on the mountain just above our camp, but the animal fell into a crevice more than a hundred feet deep and was retrieved only after a full day of hard work. The men made a swinging ladder from strong vines, climbed down it, and pulled the serow up the cliff; since it weighed nearly three hundred pounds, this was definitely not an easy task.

Our Lolo hunters were tall, handsome fellows led by a slender young chief with patrician features who ruled his village like an autocrat with absolute power of life and death. The Lolos are a strange people who at one time probably occupied much of the region south - 137 - of the Yangtze River but were pushed south and west by the Chinese and, except in one instance, now exist only in scattered units in the provinces of Kwei-chau and Yün-nan.

Our Lolo hunters were tall, good-looking guys led by a slim young chief with noble features who governed his village like an autocrat with total power over life and death. The Lolos are an unusual people who likely once inhabited much of the area south of the Yangtze River but were driven south and west by the Chinese and, except for one case, now only exist in small groups in the provinces of Kwei-chau and Yün-nan. - 137 -

In S'suchuan the Lolos hold a vast territory which is absolutely closed to the Chinese on pain of death and over which they exercise no control. Several expeditions have been launched against the Lolos but all have ended in disaster.

In Sichuan, the Lolos occupy a large area that is completely off-limits to the Chinese under penalty of death, and they maintain no control there. Several attempts have been made to confront the Lolos, but all have resulted in failure.

Only a few weeks before we arrived in Yün-nan a number of Chinese soldiers butchered nearly a hundred Lolos whom they had encountered outside the independent territory, and in reprisal the Lolos burned several villages almost under the walls of a fortified city in which were five hundred soldiers, massacred all the men and boys, and carried off the women as slaves.

Only a few weeks before we got to Yün-nan, a group of Chinese soldiers killed almost a hundred Lolos they found outside the independent territory. In retaliation, the Lolos set fire to several villages right near a fortified city that had five hundred soldiers inside, slaughtered all the men and boys, and took the women as captives.

The pure blood Lolos "are a very fine tall race, with comparatively fair complexions, and often with straight features, suggesting a mixture of Mongolian with some more straight-featured race. Their appearance marks them as closely connected by race with the eastern Tibetans, the latter being, if anything, rather the bigger men of the two."[2] They are great wanderers and over a very large part of Yün-nan form the bulk of the hill population, being the most numerous of all the non-Chinese tribes in the province.

The pureblood Lolos "are a tall and impressive group, with relatively fair skin and often straight features, implying a blend of Mongolian and some other straight-featured ethnicity. Their appearance indicates a strong racial connection to the eastern Tibetans, who tend to be slightly larger than the Lolos."[2] They are avid travelers and make up a significant portion of the hill population across much of Yün-nan, being the largest non-Chinese tribe in the province.

[2] "Yün-nan, the Link between India and the Yangtze," by Major H. R. Davies, 1909, p. 389.

[2] "Yün-nan, the Connection between India and the Yangtze," by Major H. R. Davies, 1909, p. 389.

Like almost every race which has been conquered by the Chinese or has come into continual contact with them for a few generations, the Lolos of Yün-nan, where they are in isolated villages, are being absorbed by the Chinese. We found, as did Major Davies, that in some - 138 - instances they were giving up their language and beginning to talk Chinese even among themselves. The women already had begun to tie up their feet in the Chinese fashion and even disliked to be called Lolos.

Like almost every race that has been conquered by the Chinese or has had ongoing contact with them for a few generations, the Lolos of Yün-nan, where they live in isolated villages, are being absorbed by the Chinese. We found, as did Major Davies, that in some - 138 - instances they were giving up their language and starting to speak Chinese even among themselves. The women had already begun to bind their feet in the Chinese style and even disliked being called Lolos.

Those whom we employed were living entirely by hunting and, although we found them amiable enough, they were exceedingly independent. They preferred to hunt alone, although they recognized what an increased chance for game our high-power rifles gave them, and eventually left us while I was away on a short trip, even though we still owed them considerable money.

Those we hired were completely reliant on hunting, and while we found them friendly enough, they were incredibly independent. They liked to hunt by themselves, even though they understood how much our high-power rifles improved their chances of getting game. In the end, they left us while I was away on a brief trip, despite the fact that we still owed them a significant amount of money.

The Lolos are only one of the non-Chinese tribes of Yün-nan. Major Davies has considered this question in his valuable book to which I have already referred, and I cannot do better than quote his remarks here.

The Lolos are just one of the non-Chinese tribes in Yün-nan. Major Davies has looked into this topic in his important book that I've mentioned before, and I can’t express it any better than to quote his comments here.

The numerous non-Chinese tribes that the traveler encounters in western China, form perhaps one of the most interesting features of travel in that country. It is safe to assert that in hardly any other part of the world is there such a large variety of languages and dialects, as are to be heard in the country which lies between Assam and the eastern border of Yün-nan and in the Indo-Chinese countries to the south of this region.

The many non-Chinese tribes that travelers meet in western China are probably one of the most fascinating aspects of exploring that country. It's safe to say that in hardly any other place in the world is there such a wide variety of languages and dialects as those found in the area between Assam and the eastern border of Yün-nan, as well as in the Indo-Chinese countries to the south of this region.

The reason of this is not hard to find. It lies in the physical characteristics of the country. It is the high mountain ranges and the deep swift-flowing rivers that have brought about the differences in customs and language, and the innumerable tribal distinctions, which are so perplexing to the enquirer into Indo-Chinese ethnology.

The reason for this isn't difficult to identify. It stems from the physical features of the country. The towering mountain ranges and the fast-flowing rivers have created variations in customs and languages, along with countless tribal differences that can be quite confusing for anyone looking into Indo-Chinese ethnology.

A tribe has entered Yün-nan from their original Himalayan or Tibetan home, and after increasing in numbers have found the land they have settled on not equal to their wants. The natural result has been the emigration of part of the colony. The - 139 - emigrants, having surmounted pathless mountains and crossed unbridged rivers on extemporized rafts, have found a new place to settle in, and have felt no inclination to undertake such a journey again to revisit their old home.

A tribe has come into Yün-nan from their original home in the Himalayas or Tibet, and after growing in numbers, they've found that the land they've settled in doesn't meet their needs. As a result, some members of the colony have decided to emigrate. The emigrants, having navigated through uncharted mountains and crossed rivers on makeshift rafts, have discovered a new place to settle and have no desire to undertake such a journey again to return to their old home. - 139 -

Being without a written character in which to preserve their traditions, cut off from all civilizing influence of the outside world, and occupied merely in growing crops enough to support themselves, the recollection of their connection with their original ancestors has died out. It is not then surprising that they should now consider themselves a totally distinct race from the parent stock. Inter-tribal wars, and the practice of slave raiding so common among the wilder members of the Indo-Chinese family, have helped to still further widen the breach. In fact it may be considered remarkable that after being separated for hundreds, and perhaps in some case for thousands, of years, the languages of two distant tribes of the same family should bear to each other the marked general resemblance which is still to be found.

Being without a written system to keep their traditions, isolated from any outside influences, and focused only on growing enough food to survive, the memory of their connection to their original ancestors has faded away. It's not surprising that they now see themselves as completely different from their ancestral roots. Conflicts between tribes and the common practice of slave raiding among the more primitive members of the Indo-Chinese group have further deepened this divide. In fact, it’s quite remarkable that after being separated for hundreds, and possibly even thousands, of years, the languages of two distant tribes from the same family still show a significant overall resemblance to each other.

The hilly nature of the country and the consequent lack of good means of communication have also naturally militated against the formation of any large kingdoms with effective control over the mountainous districts. Directly we get to a flat country with good roads and navigable rivers, we find the tribal distinctions disappear, and the whole of the inhabitants are welded into a homogeneous people under a settled government, speaking one language.

The hilly terrain of the country and the resulting lack of good transportation options have naturally made it difficult for any large kingdoms to establish effective control over the mountainous areas. As soon as we reach a flat area with good roads and navigable rivers, the tribal distinctions fade away, and all the inhabitants come together as a unified people under a stable government, speaking one language.

Burmese as heard throughout the Irrawaddy valley is the same everywhere. A traveler from Rangoon to Bhamo will find one language spoken throughout his journey, but an expedition of the same length in the hilly country to the east or to the west of the Irrawaddy valley would bring him into contact with twenty mutually unintelligible tongues.

Burmese, as spoken throughout the Irrawaddy valley, is consistent everywhere. A traveler moving from Rangoon to Bhamo will hear the same language along the way, but taking a similar trip in the hilly regions to the east or west of the Irrawaddy valley would expose them to twenty different languages that are not understandable to one another.

The same state of things applies to Siam and Tonking—one nation speaking one language in the flat country and a Tower of Babel in the hills (loc. cit., pp. 332-883).

The same situation exists in Siam and Tonking—one nation speaking one language in the lowlands and a Tower of Babel in the hills (loc. cit., pp. 332-883).

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CHAPTER XVII

GORALS AND SEROWS

Gorals and serows

Gorals and serows belong to the subfamily Rupicaprinæ which is an early mountain-living offshoot of the Bovidæ; it also includes the chamois, takin, and the so-called Rocky Mountain goat of America. The animals are commonly referred to as "goat-antelopes" in order to express the intermediate position which they apparently hold between the goats and antelopes. They are also sometimes called the Rupicaprine antelopes from the scientific name of the chamois (Rupicapra).

Goral and serows are part of the subfamily Rupicaprinæ, which is an early mountain-dwelling branch of the Bovidæ; this group also includes the chamois, takin, and the so-called Rocky Mountain goat from America. People often refer to these animals as "goat-antelopes" to highlight their intermediate position between goats and antelopes. They are also sometimes called Rupicaprine antelopes, named after the scientific name of the chamois (Rupicapra).

The horns of all members of the group are finely ridged, subcylindrical and are present in both sexes, being almost as long in the female as in the male. Although no one would suspect that the gorals are more closely related to the takins than to the serows, which they resemble superficially, such seems to be the case, but the cranial differences between the two genera are to a certain extent bridged over by the skull of the small Japanese serow (Capricornulus crispus). This species is most interesting because of its intermediate position. In size it is larger than a goral but smaller than a serow; its long coat and its horns resemble those of a goral but it has the face gland and short tail of a serow. It is found in Japan, Manchuria and southern Siberia.

The horns of all group members are finely ridged and cylindrical, present in both males and females, and are nearly as long in females as in males. While no one would guess that gorals are more closely related to takins than to serows, which they look similar to, this seems to be true. However, the differences in the skulls between the two genera are somewhat bridged by the skull of the small Japanese serow (Capricornulus crispus). This species is particularly interesting because of its intermediate position. It’s larger than a goral but smaller than a serow; its long coat and horns are similar to those of a goral, but it has the face gland and short tail of a serow. It's found in Japan, Manchuria, and southern Siberia.

The principal external difference between the gorals and serows, besides that of size, is in the fact that the serows have a short tail and a well developed face gland, which opens in front of the eyes by a small orifice, while the gorals have a long tail and no such gland.

The main visible difference between gorals and serows, aside from their size, is that serows have a short tail and a prominent facial gland that opens near their eyes through a small hole, whereas gorals have a long tail and lack this gland.

A Serow Killed on the Snow Mountain

The Head of a Serow

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In the cylindrical form of their horns the serows are similar to some of the antelopes but in their clumsy build, heavy limbs and stout hoofs as well as in habits they resemble goats. The serow has a long, melancholy-looking face and because of its enormous ears the Chinese in Fukien Province refer to it as the "wild donkey" but in Yün-nan it is called "wild cow."

In the cylindrical shape of their horns, serows are similar to some antelopes, but with their awkward build, heavy limbs, and thick hooves, as well as their habits, they resemble goats. The serow has a long, sad-looking face, and because of its large ears, the Chinese in Fukien Province refer to it as the "wild donkey," while in Yün-nan, it's called "wild cow."

The specific relationships of the serows are by no means satisfactorily determined. Mr. Pocock, Superintendent of the London Zoölogical Society's Gardens, has recently devoted considerable study to the serows of British India and considers them all to be races of the single species Capricornis sumatrensis. With this opinion I am inclined to agree, although I have not yet had sufficient time in which to thoroughly study the subject in the light of our new material.

The exact relationships of the serows are not clearly established. Mr. Pocock, the Superintendent of the London Zoological Society's Gardens, has recently put a lot of effort into studying the serows of British India and believes they all belong to the same species, Capricornis sumatrensis. I tend to agree with this view, although I haven't had enough time to thoroughly investigate the topic with our new findings.

These animals differ most strikingly in external coloration, and fall into three groups all of which partake more or less of the characters of each other. Chinese serows usually have the lower legs rusty red, while in Indian races they are whitish, and black in the southern Burma and Malayan forms.

These animals are most noticeably different in their outward color, and they can be divided into three groups, all of which share some characteristics with one another. Chinese serows typically have rusty red lower legs, while the Indian versions have whitish lower legs, and the southern Burma and Malayan forms have black lower legs.

The serows which we killed upon the Snow Mountain can probably be referred to Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi, those of Fukien obtained by Mr. Caldwell represent the white-maned serow Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes and one which I shot in May, 1917, near Teng-yueh, not far from the Burma frontier, is apparently an undescribed form.

The serows we hunted on Snow Mountain can likely be identified as Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi; those from Fukien collected by Mr. Caldwell represent the white-maned serow Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes. One that I shot in May 1917, near Teng-yueh, close to the Burma border, seems to be an undiscovered type.

Our specimens have brought out the fact that a remarkable individual variation exists in the color of the - 142 - legs of these animals; this character was considered to be of diagnostic value, and probably is in some degree, but it is by no means as reliable as it was formerly supposed to be.

Our samples have revealed that there is a significant individual variation in the color of the legs of these animals; this characteristic was thought to be useful for identification, and it may be to some extent, but it is definitely not as trustworthy as it was once believed to be.

Two of the serows killed on the Snow Mountain have the lower legs rusty red, while in two others these parts are buff colored. The animals, all males of nearly the same age, were taken on the same mountain, and virtually at the same time. Their skulls exhibit no important differences and there is no reason to believe that they represent anything but an extreme individual variation.

Two of the serows killed on Snow Mountain have rusty red lower legs, while the other two have buff-colored legs. All the animals are males of nearly the same age, taken on the same mountain and almost at the same time. Their skulls show no significant differences, and there's no reason to think they represent anything other than extreme individual variation.

The two specimens obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping are even more surprising. The old female is coal black, but the young male is distinctly brownish-black with a chestnut stripe from the mane to the tail along the mid-dorsal line where the hairs of the back form a ridge. The horns of the female are nearly parallel for half their extent and approach each other at the tips; their surfaces are remarkably smooth. The horns of the young male diverge like a V from the skull and are very heavily ridged. The latter character is undoubtedly due to youth.

The two specimens collected by Mr. Caldwell in Yen-ping are even more surprising. The older female is solid black, while the young male is clearly brownish-black with a chestnut stripe running from its mane to its tail along the middle of its back, where the hair creates a ridge. The female's horns are almost parallel for half their length and come together at the tips; their surfaces are incredibly smooth. The young male's horns spread apart in a V shape from its skull and are heavily ridged. This last feature is likely due to its youth.

These serows are an excellent example of the necessity for collecting a large number of specimens from the same locality. Only by this means is it possible to learn how the species is affected by age, sex and individual variation and what are its really important characters. In the case of the gorals, our Expedition obtained at Hui-yao such a splendid series of all ages that we have an unequaled opportunity for intelligent study. Serows are entirely Asian and found in China, Japan, India, Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula.

These serows are a great example of why it's important to collect many specimens from the same location. Only by doing this can we understand how factors like age, sex, and individual differences impact the species and identify its key characteristics. For the gorals, our Expedition gathered such an amazing range of specimens of all ages at Hui-yao that we have a unique opportunity for insightful study. Serows are exclusively found in Asia, specifically in China, Japan, India, Sumatra, and the Malay Peninsula.

- 143 -

On the Snow Mountain we found them living singly at altitudes of from 9,000 to 13,000 feet in dense spruce forests, among the cliffs. The animals seemed to be fond of sleeping under overhanging rocks, and we were constantly finding beds which gave evidence of very extensive use. Apparently serows seldom come out into the open, but feed on leaves and grass while in the thickest cover, so that it is almost impossible to kill them without the aid of dogs or beaters.

On Snow Mountain, we found them living alone at altitudes of 9,000 to 13,000 feet in dense spruce forests among the cliffs. The animals appeared to enjoy sleeping under overhanging rocks, and we kept finding beds that showed clear signs of heavy use. It seemed that serows rarely ventured into the open but instead fed on leaves and grass while being well concealed, making it nearly impossible to hunt them without the help of dogs or beaters.

Sometimes a serow will lead the dogs for three or four miles, and eventually lose them or it may turn at bay and fight the pack after only a short chase; a large serow is almost certain to kill several of the hounds if in a favorable position with a rock wall at its back. The animal can use its strong curved horns with deadly effect for it is remarkably agile for a beast of its size.

Sometimes a serow will lead the dogs for three or four miles and eventually shake them off, or it might turn around and fight the pack after only a short chase. A large serow is likely to kill several of the hounds if it has a rock wall at its back, giving it an advantage. The animal can use its strong curved horns with deadly force, and it's surprisingly agile for its size.

In Fukien we hunted serows on the summit of a high mountain clothed with a dense jungle of dwarf bamboo. It was in quite different country from that which the animals inhabit in Yün-nan for although the cover was exceedingly thick it was without such high cliffs and there were extensive grassy meadows. We did not see any serows in Fukien because of the ignorance of our beaters, although the trails were cut by fresh tracks. The natives said that in late September the animals could often be found in the forests of the lower mountain slopes when they came to browse upon the new grown mushrooms.

In Fukien, we hunted serows on the top of a tall mountain covered in a dense jungle of dwarf bamboo. The landscape was very different from the areas where the animals live in Yün-nan; even though the underbrush was incredibly thick, there weren’t any steep cliffs, and there were plenty of grassy meadows. We didn’t spot any serows in Fukien due to our beaters' lack of knowledge, even though the trails were marked with fresh tracks. The locals mentioned that in late September, the animals could often be found in the forests of the lower mountain slopes when they came down to eat the newly grown mushrooms.

Mr. Caldwell purchased for us in the market the skin of a splendid female serow and a short time later obtained a young male. The latter was seen swimming across the river just below the city wall and was caught alive by the natives. The female weighed three - 144 - hundred and ten pounds and the male two hundred and ninety pounds.

Mr. Caldwell bought us the skin of a beautiful female serow at the market, and shortly after, he got a young male. The male was spotted swimming across the river just below the city wall and was captured alive by the locals. The female weighed three hundred and ten pounds, while the male weighed two hundred and ninety pounds. - 144 -

Serows are rare in captivity and are said to be rather dangerous pets unless tamed when very young. We are reproducing a photograph taken and kindly loaned by Mr. Herbert Lang, of one formerly living in the Berlin Zoölogical Garden; we saw a serow in the Zoölogical Park at Calcutta and one from Darjeeling is owned by the London Zoölogical Society.

Serows are rare in captivity and are considered pretty dangerous pets unless they are tamed when they’re very young. We're sharing a photograph taken and generously lent by Mr. Herbert Lang, of one that used to live in the Berlin Zoo; we saw a serow in the Zoo at Calcutta, and there’s one from Darjeeling owned by the London Zoo Society.

Gorals are pretty little animals of the size of the chamois. The species which we killed on the Snow Mountain can probably be referred to Næmorhedus griseus, but I have not yet had an opportunity to study our specimens carefully. Unlike the serows these gorals have blackish brown tails which from the roots to the end of the hairs measure about 10 inches in length. The horns of both sexes are prominently ridged for the basal half of their length and perfectly smooth distally. The male horns are strongly recurved and are thick and round at the base but narrow rapidly to the tips; the female horns are straighter and more slender. The longest horns in the series which we received measured six inches in length and three and three-quarters inches in circumference at the base. Like the serows, gorals are confined to Asia and are found in northern India, Burma, and China, and northwards through Korea and southern Manchuria.

Gorals are small, charming animals about the size of chamois. The species we encountered on Snow Mountain is likely Næmorhedus griseus, but I haven't had the chance to examine our specimens closely yet. Unlike serows, these gorals have dark brown tails that measure about 10 inches in length from the roots to the tips. The horns of both males and females have prominent ridges for the lower half and are completely smooth on the upper half. Male horns are strongly curved and thick and round at the base, tapering quickly to the tips; female horns are straighter and more slender. The longest horns in the samples we received were six inches long and had a circumference of three and three-quarters inches at the base. Like serows, gorals are found only in Asia, specifically in northern India, Burma, and China, extending northward through Korea and southern Manchuria.

We hunted gorals with dogs on the Snow Mountain for in this particular region they could be killed in no other way. There was so much cover, even at altitudes of from 12,000 to 15,000 feet and the rocks were so precipitous, that a man might spend a month "still hunting" and never see a goral. They are vicious fighters, - 145 - and often back up to a cliff where they can keep the dogs at a distance. One of our best hounds while hunting alone, brought a goral to bay and was found dead next day by the hunters with its side ripped open.

We hunted gorals with dogs on Snow Mountain because in this area that was the only way to catch them. There was so much cover, even at heights of 12,000 to 15,000 feet, and the rocks were so steep that a person could spend a month stalking quietly without ever seeing a goral. They are fierce fighters and often retreat to a cliff where they can keep the dogs away. One of our best hounds, while hunting alone, cornered a goral and was found dead the next day by the hunters, its side torn open. - 145 -

On the Snow Mountain we found the animals singly but at Hui-yao, not far from the Burma frontier, where we hunted another species in the spring, they were almost universally in herds of from six to seven or eight. It was at the latter place that we had our best opportunity to observe gorals and learn something of their habits. We were camping on the banks of a branch of the Shweli River, which had cut a narrow gorge for itself; on one side this was seven or eight hundred feet deep. A herd of about fifty gorals had been living for many years on one of the mountain sides not far from the village, and although they were seen constantly the natives had no weapons with which to kill them; but with our high-power rifles it was possible to shoot across the river at distances of from two hundred to four hundred yards.

On Snow Mountain, we found the animals alone, but at Hui-yao, not far from the Burma border, where we hunted a different species in the spring, they were mostly in herds of six to eight. It was at this location that we had the best chance to observe gorals and learn about their habits. We were camping along the banks of a branch of the Shweli River, which had carved out a narrow gorge; on one side, it was seven or eight hundred feet deep. A herd of about fifty gorals had been living on one of the mountain slopes near the village for many years, and although they were spotted often, the locals didn’t have any weapons to hunt them. However, with our high-power rifles, we could shoot across the river at distances of two hundred to four hundred yards.

We could scan every inch of the hillside through our field glasses and watch the gorals as they moved about quite unconscious of our presence. At this place they were feeding almost exclusively upon the leaves of low bushes and the new grass which had sprung up where the slopes had been partly burned over. We found them browsing from daylight until about nine o'clock, and from four in the afternoon until dark. They would move slowly among the bushes, picking off the new leaves, and usually about the middle of the morning would choose a place where the sun beat in warmly upon the rocks, and go to sleep.

We could scan every part of the hillside through our binoculars and watch the gorals as they moved around, completely unaware of us. Here, they were mostly eating the leaves of low bushes and the new grass that had grown where the slopes were partially burned. We observed them grazing from dawn until around nine o'clock and from four in the afternoon until dark. They would slowly wander among the bushes, snacking on the new leaves, and usually around mid-morning, they would pick a spot where the sun shone warmly on the rocks and take a nap.

Strangely enough they did not lie down on their sides, - 146 - as do many hoofed animals, but doubled their forelegs under them, stretched their necks and hind legs straight out, and rested on their bellies. It was a most uncomfortable looking attitude, and the first time I saw an animal resting thus I thought it had been wounded, but both Mr. Heller and myself saw them repeatedly at other times, and realized that this was their natural position when asleep.

Strangely enough, they didn't lie down on their sides, - 146 - like many hoofed animals do, but tucked their forelegs underneath them, stretched their necks and hind legs straight out, and rested on their bellies. It looked like a really uncomfortable position, and the first time I saw an animal resting like this, I thought it was injured. However, both Mr. Heller and I saw them do it multiple times later and understood that this was their natural sleeping position.

When frightened, like our own mountain sheep or goats, they would run a short distance and stop to look back. This was usually their undoing, for they offered excellent targets as they stood silhouetted against the sky. They were very difficult to see when lying down among the rocks, but our native hunters, who had most extraordinary eyesight, often would discover them when it was almost impossible for me to find them even with the field glasses. We never could be sure that there were no gorals on a mountain-side, for they were adepts at hiding, and made use of a bunch of grass or the smallest crevice in a rock to conceal themselves, and did it so completely that they seemed to have vanished from the earth.

When scared, like our own mountain sheep or goats, they would run a short distance and then stop to peek back. This typically led to their downfall, as they became easy targets while standing out against the sky. They were tough to spot when lying among the rocks, but our local hunters, with their remarkable eyesight, often noticed them when I could barely find them even with binoculars. We could never be completely sure that there weren’t any gorals on a mountainside, since they were masters at hiding, using a tuft of grass or even the smallest crack in a rock to blend in, doing it so completely that they seemed to disappear from the earth.

Like all sheep and goats, they could climb about where it seemed impossible for any animal to move. I have seen a goral run down the face of a cliff which appeared to be almost perpendicular, and where the dogs dared not venture. As the animal landed on a projecting rock it would bounce off as though made of rubber, and leap eight or ten feet to a narrow ledge which did not seem large enough to support a rabbit.

Like all sheep and goats, they could navigate places that seemed impossible for any animal to reach. I've seen a goral run down a cliff that looked almost vertical, where the dogs wouldn't dare to go. When the animal landed on a jutting rock, it would bounce off as if it were made of rubber, and leap eight or ten feet to a narrow ledge that didn’t seem big enough to hold a rabbit.

The ability to travel down such precipitous cliffs is largely due to the animal's foot structure. Professor Henry Fairfield Osborn has investigated this matter in - 147 - the mountain goat and as his remarks apply almost equally well to the goral, I cannot do better than quote them here:

The ability to navigate steep cliffs is mainly because of the animal's foot structure. Professor Henry Fairfield Osborn studied this topic in the mountain goat, and since his observations are almost equally relevant to the goral, I will quote him here: - 147 -

The horny part of the foot surrounds only the extreme front. Behind this crescentic horn is a shallow concavity which gives the horny hoof a chance to get its hold. Both the main digits and the dewclaws terminate in black, rubber-like, rounded and expanded soles, which are of great service in securing a firm footing on the shelving rocks and narrow ledges on which the animal travels with such ease. This sole, Smith states, softens in the spring of the year, when the snow is leaving the ground, a fresh layer of the integument taking its place. The rubber-like balls with which the dewclaws are provided are by no means useless; they project back below the horny part of the hoof, and Mr. Smith has actually observed the young captive goats supporting themselves solely on their dewclaws on the edge of a roof. It is probable that they are similarly used on the rocks and precipices, since on a very narrow ledge they would serve favorably to alter the center of gravity by enabling the limb to be extended somewhat farther forward.[3]

The tough part of the foot only covers the very front. Just behind this curved tip is a shallow dip that helps the tough hoof grip better. Both the main toes and the dewclaws end in rounded, flexible soles that are super helpful for getting a solid grip on the sloping rocks and narrow ledges where the animal moves so effortlessly. According to Smith, this sole gets softer in the spring when the snow melts, replaced by a new layer of skin. The flexible pads on the dewclaws are definitely useful; they extend back below the tough part of the hoof, and Mr. Smith has even seen young captive goats balance entirely on their dewclaws at the edge of a roof. It's likely they use them similarly on rocks and cliffs because on very narrow ledges, they help shift the center of gravity by allowing the limb to stretch a bit further forward.[3]

[3] "Mountain Goat Hunting with the Camera," by Henry Fairfield Osborn. Reprinted from the tenth Annual Report of the New York Zoölogical Society, 1906, pp. 18-14.

There were certain trails leading over the hill slopes at Hui-yao which the gorals must have used continually, judging by the way in which these were worn. We also found much sign beneath overhanging rocks and on projecting ledges to indicate that these were definite resorts for numbers of the animals. Many which we saw were young or of varying ages running with the herds, and it was interesting to see how perfectly they had mastered the art of self-concealment even when hardly a year old. Although at Hui-yao almost all - 148 - were on the east side of the river, they did not seem to be especially averse to water, and several times I watched wounded animals swim across the stream.

There were certain trails winding over the hills at Hui-yao that the gorals must have used frequently, based on how worn they were. We also found plenty of signs beneath overhanging rocks and on ledges that showed these spots were popular hangouts for many of the animals. Most of the ones we saw were young or of different ages running with the herds, and it was fascinating to see how well they had learned to hide themselves, even at less than a year old. Although at Hui-yao almost all of them were on the east side of the river, they didn’t seem particularly afraid of water, and several times I watched injured animals swim across the stream. - 148 -

Gorals are splendid game animals, for the plucky little brutes inspire the sportsman with admiration, besides leading him over peaks which try his nerve to the utmost, and I number among the happiest hours of my life the wonderful hunts in Yün-nan, far above the clouds, at the edge of the snow.

Gorals are amazing game animals because these brave little creatures inspire admiration in hunters and lead them over peaks that test their nerves to the limit. I count among the happiest hours of my life the incredible hunts in Yün-nan, way above the clouds, at the edge of the snow.

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CHAPTER XVIII

THE "WHITE WATER"

Y. B. A.

October had slipped into November when we left the temple and shifted camp to the other side of the Snow Mountain at the "White Water." It was a brilliant day and the ride up the valley could not have been more beautiful. Crossing the gangheisa or "dry sea," a great grassy plain which was evidently a dry lake basin, we followed the trail into the forest and down the side of a deep cañon to a mountain stream where the waters spread themselves in a thin, green veil over a bed of white stones.

October had turned into November when we left the temple and moved our camp to the other side of Snow Mountain at "White Water." It was a bright day, and the ride up the valley couldn’t have been more stunning. Crossing the gangheisa or "dry sea," a vast grassy plain that was clearly a dry lake basin, we followed the trail into the forest and down the side of a deep canyon to a mountain stream where the water flowed in a delicate green veil over a bed of white stones.

We pitched our tents on a broad terrace beside the stream at the edge of the spruce forest. Above us towered the highest peak of the mountain, with a glacier nestling in a basin near its summit, and the snow-covered slopes extending in a glorious shining crescent about our camp. The moon was full, and each night as we sat at dinner before the fire, the ragged peaks turned crimson in the afterglow of the sun, and changed to purest silver at the touch of the white moonlight. We have had many camps in many lands but none more beautiful than the one at the "White Water."

We set up our tents on a wide terrace next to the stream on the edge of the spruce forest. Above us loomed the tallest peak of the mountain, with a glacier resting in a basin near its top, and the snow-covered slopes stretching out in a beautiful shining crescent around our camp. The moon was full, and each night as we had dinner by the fire, the jagged peaks turned red in the sunset’s afterglow, then transformed into bright silver under the white moonlight. We’ve camped in many places, but none have been more beautiful than the one at the "White Water."

The weather was perfect. Every day the sun shone in a cloudless blue sky and in the morning the ground was frozen hard and covered with snowlike frost, but - 150 - the air was marvelously stimulating. We felt that we could be happy at the "White Water" forever, but it did not prove to be as good a hunting ground as that on the other side of the mountain. The Lolos killed a fine serow on the first day and Hotenfa brought in a young goral a short time later, but big game was by no means abundant. At the "White Water" we obtained our first Lady Amherst's pheasant (Thaumalea amherstiæ) one of the most remarkable species of a family containing the most beautiful birds of the world. The rainbow colored body and long tail of the male are made more conspicuous by a broad white and green ruff about the neck. The first birds brought alive to England were two males which had been presented to the Countess Amherst after whom the species was named. We found this pheasant inhabiting thick forests where it is by no means easy to discover or shoot. It is fairly abundant in Yün-nan, Eastern Tibet and S'suchuan but its habits are not well known. Although the camp yielded several small mammals new to our collection, we decided to go into Li-chiang to engage a new caravan for our trip across the Yangtze River while Heller remained in camp.

The weather was perfect. Every day, the sun shone in a cloudless blue sky, and in the morning, the ground was frozen solid and covered with frost like snow, but the air felt incredibly refreshing. We thought we could be happy at "White Water" forever, but it turned out to be not as good for hunting as the area on the other side of the mountain. The Lolos shot a nice serow on the first day, and Hotenfa brought in a young goral shortly after, but big game was definitely not plentiful. At "White Water," we got our first Lady Amherst's pheasant (Thaumalea amherstiæ), one of the most impressive members of a family that includes some of the world's most beautiful birds. The male's rainbow-colored body and long tail stand out thanks to a broad white and green ruff around the neck. The first live birds brought to England were two males that were given to the Countess Amherst, after whom the species is named. We found this pheasant living in dense forests, where it's not easy to spot or shoot. It's fairly common in Yün-nan, Eastern Tibet, and S'suchuan, but not much is known about its behavior. Although the camp offered several small mammals that were new to our collection, we decided to head into Li-chiang to hire a new caravan for our journey across the Yangtze River while Heller stayed behind in camp.

The direct road to Li-chiang was considerably shorter than by way of the Snow Mountain village and at three o'clock in the afternoon our beloved "Temple of the Flowers" was visible on the hilltop overlooking the city. As we rode up the steep ascent we saw a picturesque gathering on the porch and heard the sound of many voices laughing and talking. The beautiful garden-like courtyard was filled with women and children of every age and description, and all the doors from one side of the temple had been removed, leaving a large open - 151 - space where huge cauldrons were boiling and steaming.

The direct route to Li-chiang was much shorter than going through the Snow Mountain village, and by three o'clock in the afternoon, our beloved "Temple of the Flowers" came into view on the hilltop overlooking the city. As we rode up the steep incline, we noticed a lively gathering on the porch and heard the sounds of laughter and conversation. The beautiful garden-like courtyard was filled with women and children of all ages and backgrounds, and all the doors on one side of the temple had been taken off, creating a large open space where huge cauldrons were boiling and steaming. - 151 -

We sat down irresolutely on the inner porch but the young priest was delighted to see us and insisted that we wait until Wu arrived. We were glad that we did not seek other quarters for we were to witness an interesting ceremony, which is most characteristic of Chinese life. It seemed that about five years before a gentleman of Li-chiang had "shuffled off this mortal coil." His soul may have found rest, but "his mortal coil" certainly did not. Unfortunately his family inherited a few hundred dollars several years later and the village "astrologer" informed them that according to the feng-shui, or omnipotent spirits of the earth, wind, and water, the situation of the deceased gentleman's grave was ill-chosen and that if they ever hoped to enjoy good fortune again they must dig him up, give the customary feast in his honor and have another burial site chosen.

We sat down uncertainly on the inner porch, but the young priest was happy to see us and insisted we wait for Wu to arrive. We were glad we hadn't sought other accommodations because we were about to witness an interesting ceremony that is very typical of Chinese life. It turned out that about five years earlier, a gentleman from Li-chiang had "shuffled off this mortal coil." His soul may have found peace, but "his mortal coil" definitely did not. Unfortunately, his family received a few hundred dollars a few years later, and the village "astrologer" told them that according to the feng-shui, or the all-powerful spirits of the earth, wind, and water, the location of the deceased gentleman's grave was poorly chosen. He advised that if they ever hoped to be fortunate again, they would need to dig him up, hold the customary feast in his honor, and pick a new burial site.

Every village has a "wise man" who is always called upon to select the resting place of the dead, his remuneration varying from two dollars to two thousand dollars according to the circumstances of the deceased's relatives. The astrologer never will say definitely whether or not the spot will prove a propitious one and if the family later sell any property, receive a legacy, or are known to have obtained money in other ways, the astrologer usually finds that the feng-shui do not favor the original place and he will exact another fee for choosing a second grave.

Every village has a "wise man" who is always asked to choose the burial site for the dead, with his payment ranging from two dollars to two thousand dollars based on the situation of the deceased's family. The astrologer never clearly states whether the chosen spot will be lucky, and if the family later sells any property, gets an inheritance, or is known to have come into money in other ways, the astrologer typically claims that the feng-shui is not favorable for the original location, and he will demand another fee to select a new grave.

The dead are never buried until the astrologer has named an auspicious day as well as an appropriate site, with the result that unburied coffins are to be seen - 152 - in temples, under roadside shelters, in the fields and in the back yards of many houses.

The dead are never buried until the astrologer has chosen a lucky day and a suitable location, which means you can find unburied coffins in temples, under roadside shelters, in the fields, and in the backyards of many homes. - 152 -

Any interference by foreigners with this custom is liable to bring about dire results as in the case of the rioting in Shanghai in 1898. A number of French residents objected to a temple near by being used to store a score or more of bodies until a convenient time for burial and the result was the death of many people in the fighting which ensued. Mr. Tyler Dennet cites an amusing anecdote regarding the successful handling of the problem by a native mandarin in Yen-ping where we visited Mr. Caldwell:

Any interference by outsiders with this tradition can lead to serious consequences, as seen with the riots in Shanghai in 1898. Several French residents complained about a nearby temple being used to store over twenty bodies until it was a good time for burial, which resulted in the deaths of many people in the ensuing violence. Mr. Tyler Dennet shares a funny story about how a local mandarin in Yen-ping effectively dealt with the issue when we visited Mr. Caldwell:

The doctor pointed out how dangerous to public health was the presence of these coffins in Yen-ping. The magistrate had a census taken of the coffins above ground in the city and found that they actually numbered sixteen thousand. The city itself is estimated to have only about twenty thousand inhabitants.

The doctor highlighted the serious threat to public health posed by the presence of these coffins in Yen-ping. The magistrate conducted a count of the above-ground coffins in the city and discovered that there were actually sixteen thousand of them. The city is estimated to have only about twenty thousand residents.

It was a difficult problem for the magistrate. He might easily move in such a way as to bring the whole city down about his head. But the Chinese are clever in such situations, perhaps the cleverest people on earth. He finally devised a way out. A proclamation was issued levying a tax of fifty cents on every unburied coffin. The Chinese may be superstitious, but they are even more thrifty. For a few weeks Yen-ping devoted itself to funerals, a thousand a week, and now this little city, one of the most isolated in China, can truly be said to be on the road to health.[4]

It was a tough problem for the magistrate. He could easily make a decision that would bring disaster upon himself. But the Chinese are resourceful in situations like this, perhaps the smartest people on the planet. He eventually came up with a solution. A proclamation was issued imposing a tax of fifty cents on every unburied coffin. The Chinese may be superstitious, but they are even more budget-conscious. For a few weeks, Yen-ping focused on funerals, handling a thousand a week, and now this little city, one of the most remote in China, can genuinely be said to be on the path to recovery.[4]

[4] "Doctoring China," by Tyler Dennet, Asia, February, 1918, p. 114.

[4] "Doctoring China," by Tyler Dennet, Asia, February 1918, p. 114.

The "White Water"

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There are very few such progressive cities in China, however, and a missionary told us that recently a young child and his grandfather were buried on the same day although their deaths had been nearly fifty years apart. The funeral rites are in themselves fairly simple, but it is the great ambition of every Chinese to have his resting place as near as possible to those of his ancestors. That is one of the reasons why they are so loath to emigrate.

There are very few progressive cities like that in China, though, and a missionary told us that recently a young child and his grandfather were buried on the same day even though their deaths were nearly fifty years apart. The funeral rites themselves are quite simple, but every Chinese person's big ambition is to have their final resting place as close as possible to their ancestors. That’s one of the reasons why they are so reluctant to emigrate.

We often passed eight or ten coolies staggering under the load of a heavy coffin, transporting a body sometimes a month's journey or more to bury it at the dead man's birthplace. A rooster usually would be fastened to the coffin for, according to the Yün-nan superstition, the spirit of the man enters the bird and is conveyed by it to his home.

We often saw eight or ten porters struggling under the weight of a heavy coffin, carrying a body sometimes over a month's journey to bury it at the deceased's hometown. A rooster was usually tied to the coffin because, according to Yün-nan superstition, the man's spirit enters the bird and is taken home by it.

There is a strange absence of the fear of death among the Chinese. One often sees large planks of wood stored in a corner of a house and one is told that these are destined to become the coffins of the man's father or mother, even though his parents may at the time be enjoying the most robust health. Indeed, among the poorer classes, a coffin is considered a most fitting gift for a son to present to his father.

There’s a noticeable lack of fear of death among the Chinese. You often see big wooden boards stored in a corner of a house and are told that they are meant to be the coffins for the person's father or mother, even if his parents are in great health at the moment. In fact, among the poorer families, a coffin is seen as an appropriate gift for a son to give to his father.

We established our camp on the porch of the temple at Li-chiang and from its vantage point could watch the festivities going on about us. The feasting continued until after dark and at daylight the kettles were again steaming to prepare for the second day's celebration.

We set up our camp on the porch of the temple in Li-chiang, and from there, we could see the festivities happening around us. The feasting went on until after dark, and by morning, the kettles were steaming again to get ready for the second day's celebration.

By ten o'clock the court was crowded and a hour later there came a partial stillness which was broken by a sudden burst of music (?) from Chinese violins and pipes. Going outside we found most of the guests standing about an improvised altar. The foot of the coffin was just visible in the midst of the paper decorations - 154 - and in front of it were set half a dozen dishes of tempting food. These were meant as an offering to the spirit of the departed one, but we knew this would not prevent the sorrowing relatives from eating the food with much relish later on.

By ten o'clock, the courtroom was packed, and an hour later, a partial silence settled in, interrupted by a sudden burst of music from Chinese violins and pipes. When we stepped outside, we found most of the guests gathered around an improvised altar. The foot of the coffin was barely visible amid the paper decorations, and in front of it were several dishes of delicious food. These were meant as an offering to the spirit of the deceased, but we knew that wouldn’t stop the grieving relatives from enjoying the food with great enthusiasm later on. - 154 -

In a few moments a group of women approached, supporting a figure clothed in white with a hood drawn over her face. She was bent nearly to the ground and muffled shrieks and wails came from the depths of her veil as she prostrated herself in front of the altar. For more than an hour this chief mourner, the wife of the deceased, lay on her face, her whole figure shaking with what seemed the most uncontrollable anguish. This same lady, however, moved about later among her guests an amiable hostess, with beaming countenance, the gayest of the gay. But every morning while the festivities lasted, promptly at eleven o'clock she would prostrate herself before the coffin and display heartrending grief in the presence of the unmoved spectators in order to satisfy the demands of "custom."

In a few moments, a group of women approached, supporting a figure dressed in white with a hood covering her face. She was bent nearly to the ground, and muffled screams and cries came from deep within her veil as she bowed down in front of the altar. For over an hour, this chief mourner, the wife of the deceased, lay on her face, her entire body shaking with what seemed like the most intense anguish. However, this same woman later moved among her guests as a friendly hostess, with a bright smile, the liveliest of the crowd. But every morning during the celebrations, right at eleven o'clock, she would bow down in front of the coffin and display heart-wrenching sorrow in front of the unresponsive onlookers to meet the expectations of "tradition."

Custom and precedent have grown to be divinities with the Chinese, and such a display of feigned emotion is required on certain prescribed occasions. As one missionary aptly described it "the Chinese are all face and no heart." Mr. Caldwell told us that one night while passing down a deserted street in a Chinese village he was startled to hear the most piercing shrieks issuing from a house nearby. Thinking someone was being murdered, he rushed through the courtyard only to find that a girl who was to be married the following day, according to Chinese custom, was displaying the most desperate anguish at the prospect of leaving her - 155 - family, even though she probably was enchanted with the idea.

Custom and tradition have become like gods to the Chinese, and showing fake emotions is expected on certain occasions. As one missionary noted, "the Chinese are all show and no substance." Mr. Caldwell told us that one night while walking down an empty street in a Chinese village, he was shocked to hear high-pitched screams coming from a nearby house. Believing someone was being murdered, he rushed into the courtyard, only to find that a girl who was supposed to get married the next day, according to Chinese tradition, was expressing deep sorrow at the thought of leaving her family, even though she likely was excited about the marriage. - 155 -

On the third day of the celebration in the temple at Li-chiang the feasting ended in a burst of splendor. From one o'clock until far past sundown the friends and relatives of the departed one were fed. Any person could receive an invitation by bringing a small present, even if it were only a bowl of rice or a few hundred cash (ten or fifteen cents).

On the third day of the celebration in the temple at Li-chiang, the feasting concluded in a spectacular fashion. From one o'clock until well after sunset, the friends and relatives of the deceased were treated to a meal. Anyone could get an invitation by bringing a small gift, even if it was just a bowl of rice or a few hundred cash (about ten or fifteen cents).

All during the morning girls and women flocked up the hill with trays of gifts. There were many Mosos and other tribesmen among them as well as Chinese. The Moso girls wore their black hair cut short on the sides and hanging in long narrow plaits down their backs. They wore white leather capes (at least that was the original shade) and pretty ornaments of silver and coral at their throats, and as they were young and gay with glowing red cheeks and laughing eyes they were decidedly attractive. The guests were seated in groups of six on the stones of the temple courtyard. Small boys acted as waiters, passing about steaming bowls of vegetables and huge straw platters heaped high with rice. As soon as each guest had stuffed himself to satisfaction he relinquished his place to someone else and the food was passed again. We were frequently pressed to eat with them and in the evening when the last guest had departed the "chief mourner" brought us some delicious fruit candied in black sugar. She told Wu that they had fed three hundred people during the day and we could well believe it. The next morning the coffin was carried down the hill to the accompaniment of anguished wails and we were left once more to the peace and quiet of our beautiful temple courtyard.

All morning, girls and women flocked up the hill with trays of gifts. There were many Mosos and other tribesmen among them, as well as Chinese. The Moso girls had their black hair cut short on the sides and long narrow braids hanging down their backs. They wore white leather capes (at least, that was the original color) and pretty silver and coral ornaments around their necks. Being young and cheerful with glowing red cheeks and laughing eyes, they were definitely attractive. The guests sat in groups of six on the stones of the temple courtyard. Small boys acted as waiters, passing around steaming bowls of vegetables and huge straw platters piled high with rice. Once each guest had eaten their fill, they gave up their spot for someone else, and the food was passed around again. We were often urged to eat with them, and in the evening, when the last guest had left, the "chief mourner" brought us some delicious fruit candied in black sugar. She told Wu that they had fed three hundred people throughout the day, and we could definitely believe it. The next morning, the coffin was carried down the hill amid anguished wails, and we were left once again in the peace and quiet of our beautiful temple courtyard.

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Sometimes a family will plunge itself into debt for generations to come to provide a suitable funeral for one of its members, because to bury the dead without the proper display would not only be to "lose face" but subject them to the possible persecution of the angered spirits. This is only one of the pernicious results of ancestor worship and it is safe to say that most of the evils in China's social order today can be traced, directly or indirectly, to this unfortunate practice.

Sometimes a family will go into debt for generations just to give one of its members a decent funeral, because burying the dead without the right display would not only mean "losing face" but could also expose them to the possible wrath of angry spirits. This is just one of the harmful outcomes of ancestor worship, and it's fair to say that many of the issues in China's social structure today can be linked, either directly or indirectly, to this unfortunate practice.

A man's chief concern is to leave male descendants to worship at his grave and appease his spirit. The more sons, grandsons, and great-grandsons who walk in his funeral procession, the more he is to be envied. As a missionary humorously says "the only law of God that ever has been obeyed in China is to be fruitful and multiply." Craving for progeny has brought into existence thousands upon thousands of human beings who exist on the very brink of starvation. Nowhere in the civilized world is there a more sordid and desperate struggle to maintain life or a more hopeless poverty. But fear and self-love oblige them to continue their blind breeding. The apparent atrophy of the entire race is due to ancestor worship which binds it with chains of iron to its dead and to its past, and not until these bonds are severed can China expect to take her place among the progressive nations of the earth.

A man's main concern is to have male descendants who will honor his grave and soothe his spirit. The more sons, grandsons, and great-grandsons that participate in his funeral, the more he is envied. As a missionary jokingly notes, "the only command of God that has ever been followed in China is to be fruitful and multiply." The desire for offspring has led to the birth of countless individuals who live on the edge of starvation. Nowhere in the developed world is there a more grim and desperate struggle to survive or a more dire poverty. But fear and self-interest force them to keep reproducing without thought. The apparent decline of the whole race stems from ancestor worship, which ties them with iron chains to their dead and their past, and not until these chains are broken can China hope to join the ranks of progressive nations around the world.

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CHAPTER XIX

ACROSS THE YANGTZE GORGE

In mid-November we left the White Water with a caravan of twenty-six mules and horses. Following the road from Li-chiang to the Yangtze, we crossed the "Black Water" and climbed steadily upward over several tremendous wooded ridges, each higher than the last, to the summit of the divide.

In mid-November, we set out from the White Water with a caravan of twenty-six mules and horses. We followed the route from Li-chiang to the Yangtze, crossed the "Black Water," and steadily climbed up several massive wooded ridges, each one taller than the last, until we reached the summit of the divide.

The descent was gradual through a magnificent pine and spruce forest. Some of the trees were at least one hundred and fifty feet high, and were draped with beautiful gray moss which had looped itself from branch to branch and hung suspended in delicate streamers yards in length. The forest was choked with underbrush and a dense growth of dwarf bamboo, and the hundreds of fallen logs, carpeted with bronze moss, made ideal conditions for small mammal collecting. However, as all the species would probably be similar to those we had obtained on the Snow Mountain, we did not feel that it was worth while stopping to trap.

The descent was easy through a stunning pine and spruce forest. Some of the trees reached at least one hundred fifty feet high, adorned with beautiful gray moss that draped from branch to branch and hung down in delicate strands stretching several yards. The forest was thick with underbrush and a dense growth of dwarf bamboo, and the hundreds of fallen logs, covered in bronze moss, created perfect conditions for small mammal collecting. However, since all the species would likely be similar to those we had gathered on Snow Mountain, we didn’t think it was worth stopping to trap.

At four-thirty in the afternoon we camped upon a beautiful hill in a pine forest which was absolutely devoid of underbrush, and where the floor was thinly overlaid with brown pine needles. Although the Moso hunter, who acted as our guide, assured us that the river was only three miles away, it proved to be more than fifteen, and we did not reach the ferry until half past one the next afternoon.

At 4:30 PM, we set up camp on a beautiful hill in a pine forest that had no underbrush at all, and the ground was lightly covered with brown pine needles. Even though our guide, a Moso hunter, told us that the river was only three miles away, it turned out to be more than fifteen miles, and we didn't reach the ferry until 1:30 PM the next day.

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We were continually annoyed, as every traveler in China is, by the inaccuracy of the natives, and especially of the Chinese. Their ideas of distance are most extraordinary. One may ask a Chinaman how far it is to a certain village and he will blandly reply, "Fifteen li to go, but thirty li when you come back." After a short experience one learns how to interpret such an answer, for it means that when going the road is down hill and that the return uphill will require double the time.

We were constantly frustrated, like every traveler in China, by the natives' lack of accuracy, especially the Chinese. Their sense of distance is quite unusual. If you ask a Chinese person how far it is to a certain village, they might casually say, "Fifteen li to get there, but thirty li on the way back." After a little experience, you learn how to decode such a response because it means that the trip there is downhill and the return trip uphill will take twice as long.

Caravans are supposed to travel ten li an hour, although they seldom do more than eight, and all calculations of distance are based upon time so far as the mafus are concerned. If the day's march is eight hours you invariably will be informed that the distance is eighty li, although in reality it may not be half as great.

Caravans are expected to travel ten li an hour, but they usually only make it to eight, and all distance calculations are based on time as far as the mafus are concerned. If the day's journey is eight hours, you will always be told that the distance is eighty li, even though it might not be half that.

In "Chinese Characteristics," Dr. Arthur H. Smith gives many illuminating observations on the inaccuracy of the Chinese. In regard to distance he says:

In "Chinese Characteristics," Dr. Arthur H. Smith shares many insightful observations about the inaccuracies of the Chinese. When it comes to distance, he notes:

It is always necessary in land travel to ascertain, when the distance is given in "miles" (li), whether the "miles" are "large" or not! That there is some basis for estimates of distances we do not deny, but what we do deny is that these estimates or measurements are either accurate or uniform.

It’s always important in land travel to determine, when the distance is given in "miles" (li), whether those "miles" are "large" or not! While we acknowledge that there is some basis for estimating distances, we do not agree that these estimates or measurements are either accurate or consistent.

It is, so far as we know, a universal experience that the moment one leaves a great imperial highway the "miles" become "long." If 120 li constitute a fair day's journey on the main road, then on country roads it will take fully as long to go 100 li, and in the mountains the whole day will be spent in getting over 80 li (p. 51).

It seems to be a common experience that as soon as you leave a major highway, the "miles" feel much longer. If 120 li is a reasonable day's travel on the main road, then it will take just as long to travel 100 li on back roads, and in the mountains, a whole day will be spent covering only 80 li (p. 51).

In like manner, a farmer who is asked the weight of one of his oxen gives a figure which seems much too low, until he - 159 - explains that he has omitted to estimate the bones! A servant who was asked his height mentioned a measure which was ridiculously inadequate to cover his length, and upon being questioned admitted that he had left out of account all above his shoulders! He had once been a soldier, where the heft of the men's clavicle is important in assigning the carrying of burdens. And since a Chinese soldier is to all practical purposes complete without his head, this was omitted.

Similarly, when a farmer is asked how much one of his oxen weighs, he gives a number that seems way too low until he clarifies that he didn’t include the weight of the bones! A servant who was asked about his height provided a measurement that was hilariously short for his actual size and, when pressed, admitted that he only accounted for everything below his shoulders! He had been a soldier, where the size of the men's collarbone matters for determining who carries what loads. And since a Chinese soldier is practically seen as complete without his head, that part was left out. - 159 -

Of a different sort was the measurement of a rustic who affirmed that he lived "ninety li from the city," but upon cross-examination he consented to an abatement, as this was reckoning both to the city and back, the real distance being as he admitted, only "forty-five li one way!" (p. 49) ...

Of a different kind was the claim of a countryman who stated that he lived "ninety li from the city," but when questioned further, he agreed to reduce the distance since that was counting to the city and back, the actual distance being, as he admitted, only "forty-five li one way!" (p. 49) ...

The habit of reckoning by "tens" is deep-seated, and leads to much vagueness. A few people are "ten or twenty," a "few tens," or perhaps "ever so many tens," and a strictly accurate enumeration is one of the rarest of experiences in China.... An acquaintance told the writer that two men had spent "200 strings of cash" on a theatrical exhibition, adding a moment later, "It was 173 strings, but that is the same as 200—is it not?" (p. 64).

The habit of counting in "tens" is deeply ingrained and leads to a lot of ambiguity. Some people say they have "ten or twenty," "a few tens," or maybe "a whole bunch of tens," and getting an exact count is one of the rarest experiences in China.... A friend told me that two guys spent "200 strings of cash" on a theater show, and then added, "It was actually 173 strings, but that’s basically the same as 200, right?" (p. 64).

A man who wished advice in a lawsuit told the writer that he himself "lived" in a particular village, though it was obvious from his narrative that his abode was in the suburbs of a city. Upon inquiry, he admitted that he did not now live in the village, and further investigation revealed the fact that the removal took place nineteen generations ago! "But do you not almost consider yourself a resident of the city now?" he was asked. "Yes," he replied simply, "we do live there now, but the old root is in that village."

A man looking for advice on a lawsuit told the writer that he "lived" in a certain village, even though it was clear from his story that he actually lived in the suburbs of a city. When asked, he admitted that he did not currently live in the village, and further investigation showed that his family had moved away nineteen generations ago! "But don't you see yourself as a resident of the city now?" he was asked. "Yes," he simply replied, "we live there now, but our roots are still in that village."

... The whole Chinese system of thinking is based on a line of assumptions different from those to which we are accustomed, and they can ill comprehend the mania which seems to possess the Occidental to ascertain everything with unerring exactness. The Chinese does not know how many families there - 160 - are in his native village, and he does not wish to know. What any human being can want to know this number for is to him an insoluble riddle. It is "a few hundred," "several hundreds" or "not a few," but a fixed and definite number it never was and never will be. (p. 65.)

... The entire Chinese way of thinking is based on a set of assumptions that are different from what we're used to, and they struggle to understand the obsession that seems to drive Westerners to determine everything with absolute precision. A Chinese person doesn’t know how many families there are in their village, and they don’t want to know. To them, understanding why anyone would need to know that number is an unsolvable puzzle. It's "a few hundred," "several hundreds," or "not a few," but it has never been and will never be a fixed and exact number. (p. 65.)

After breaking camp on the day following our departure from the "White Water" we rode along a broad trail through a beautiful pine forest and in the late morning stood on an open summit gazing on one of the most impressive sights which China has to offer. At the left, and a thousand feet below, the mighty Yangtze has broken through the mountains in a gorge almost a mile deep; a gorge which seems to have been carved out of the solid rock, sharp and clean, with a giant's knife. A few miles to the right the mountains widen, leaving a flat plain two hundred feet above the river. Every inch of it, as well as the finger-like valleys which stretch upward between the hills, is under cultivation, giving support for three villages, the largest of which is Taku.

After we packed up camp the day after leaving the "White Water," we rode along a wide path through a beautiful pine forest. By late morning, we reached an open summit and gazed at one of the most stunning views that China has to offer. To our left, a thousand feet below, the powerful Yangtze has cut through the mountains, creating a gorge nearly a mile deep—one that looks like it was carved from solid rock with a giant's knife. A few miles to the right, the mountains spread out, revealing a flat plain two hundred feet above the river. Every inch of this land, along with the finger-like valleys that stretch up between the hills, is cultivated, supporting three villages, with Taku being the largest.

The ferry is in a bad place but it is the only spot for miles where the river can be crossed. The south bank is so precipitous that the trail from the plain twists and turns like a snake before it emerges upon a narrow sand and gravel beach. The opposite side of the river is a vertical wall of rock which slopes back a little at the lower end to form a steep hillside covered with short grass. The landing place is a mass of jagged rocks fronting a small patch of still water and the trail up the face of the cliff is so steep that it cannot be climbed by any loaded animal; therefore all the packs must be unstrapped and laboriously carted up the slope on the backs of the mafus.

The ferry is in a tough spot, but it’s the only place for miles where you can cross the river. The south bank is so steep that the path from the plain twists and turns like a snake before it opens up onto a narrow beach of sand and gravel. The other side of the river is a vertical wall of rock that angles back a bit at the lower end, forming a steep hillside covered with short grass. The landing area is a jumble of sharp rocks in front of a small patch of calm water, and the trail up the cliff face is so steep that no loaded animal can climb it; so, all the packs need to be unstrapped and painstakingly carried up the slope on the backs of the mafus.

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At two-thirty in the afternoon we were loading the boat, which carried only two animals and their packs, for the first trip across the river. It was difficult to get the mules aboard for they had to be whipped, shoved and actually lifted bodily into the dory. One of the ferrymen first drew the craft along the rocks by a long rope, then climbed up the face of what appeared to be an absolutely flat wall, and after pulling the boat close beneath him, slid down into it. In this way the dory was worked well up stream and when pushed into the swift current was rowed diagonally to the other side.

At two-thirty in the afternoon, we were loading the boat, which carried only two animals and their packs, for the first trip across the river. It was tough to get the mules on board because they had to be whipped, shoved, and physically lifted into the dory. One of the ferrymen first pulled the boat along the rocks with a long rope, then climbed up what seemed like a completely flat wall, and after bringing the boat close beneath him, slid down into it. This way, the dory was moved further upstream, and when pushed into the fast current, was rowed diagonally to the other side.

After four loads had been taken over, the boatmen decided to stop work although there was yet more than an hour of daylight and they could not be persuaded to cross again by either threats or coaxing. It was an uncomfortable situation but there was nothing to do but camp where we were even though the greater part of our baggage was on the other side, with only the mafus to guard it, and therefore open to robbery.

After four loads were taken across, the boatmen decided to stop working even though there was still more than an hour of daylight left, and they couldn't be convinced to go back with either threats or persuasion. It was an awkward situation, but we had no choice but to set up camp where we were, even though most of our luggage was on the other side, with only the mafus to watch over it, making it vulnerable to theft.

About a third of a mile from the ferry we found a sandy cornfield on a level shelf just above the water, and pitched our tents. A slight wind was blowing and before long we had sand in our shoes, sand in our beds, sand in our clothes, and we were eating sand. Heller went down the river with a bag of traps while we set forty on the hills above camp, and after a supper of goral steak, which did much to allay the irritation of the day, we crawled into our sandy beds.

About a third of a mile from the ferry, we found a sandy cornfield on a flat area just above the water, and set up our tents. A light breeze was blowing, and soon enough we had sand in our shoes, sand in our beds, sand in our clothes, and we were even eating sand. Heller went down the river with a bag of traps while we set forty traps on the hills above camp, and after dinner of goral steak, which really helped ease the annoyance of the day, we crawled into our sandy beds.

At daylight Hotenfa visited the ferry and reported that the loads were safe but that one of the boatmen had gone to the village and no one knew when he would return. We went to the river with Wu as soon as breakfast was over and spent an aggravating hour trying - 162 - by alternate threats and cajoling to persuade the remaining ferryman to cross the river to us. But it was useless, for the louder I swore the more frightened he became and he finally retired into a rock cave from which the mafus had to drag him out bodily and drive him into the boat.

At daybreak, Hotenfa visited the ferry and reported that the cargo was secure, but one of the boatmen had gone to the village, and no one knew when he would be back. After breakfast, we went to the river with Wu and spent a frustrating hour alternating between threats and flattery to convince the remaining ferryman to take us across. But it was no use; the louder I yelled, the more scared he got, and he eventually retreated into a rock cave, where the mafus had to literally drag him out and push him into the boat. - 162 -

The second boatman ambled slowly in about ten o'clock and we felt like beating them both, but Wu impressed upon us the necessity for patience if we ever expected to get our caravan across and we swallowed our wrath; nevertheless, we decided not to leave until the loads and mules were on the other side, and we ate a cold tiffin while sitting on the sand.

The second boatman strolled in around ten o'clock, and we felt like yelling at both of them, but Wu emphasized that we needed to be patient if we wanted to get our caravan across. We held back our frustration; still, we agreed not to leave until the loads and mules were safely on the other side, so we had a cold lunch while sitting on the sand.

Heller employed his time by skinning the twenty small mammals (one of which was a new rat) that our traps had yielded. We took a good many photographs and several rolls of "movie" film showing the efforts of the mafus to get the mules aboard. Some of them went in quietly enough but others absolutely refused to step into the boat. One of the mafus would pull, another push, a third twist the animal's tail and a fourth lift its feet singly over the side. With the accompaniment of yells, kicks, and Chinese oaths the performance was picturesque to say the least.

Heller spent his time skinning the twenty small mammals (one of which was a new rat) that our traps had caught. We took a lot of photos and several rolls of "movie" film capturing the efforts of the mafus to get the mules on board. Some of them went in quietly, but others flat-out refused to step into the boat. One mafu would pull, another would push, a third would twist the animal's tail, and a fourth would lift its feet one by one over the side. With all the yelling, kicking, and Chinese curses, the whole scene was quite the show.

A Liso Hunter With a Flying Squirrel

The Leader of Our Lolo Hunters

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By five o'clock the entire caravan had been taken across the racing green water and we had some time before dark in which to investigate the caverns with which the cliffs above the river are honeycombed. They were of two kinds, gold quarries and dwelling caves. The latter consist of a long central shaft, just high enough to allow a man to stand erect; this widens into a circular room. Along the sides of the corridor shallow nests have been scooped out to serve as beds and all the cooking is done not far from the door. The caves, although almost dark, make fairly comfortable living quarters and are by no means as dirty or as evil smelling as the ordinary native house. The mines are straight shafts dug into the cliffs where the rock is quarried and crushed by hand.

By five o'clock, the whole caravan had crossed the swiftly moving green water, and we had some time before dark to explore the caves that pockmark the cliffs above the river. There were two types: gold quarries and living caves. The living caves feature a long central shaft, tall enough for a person to stand upright, which expands into a circular room. Along the sides of the corridor, shallow niches have been carved out to serve as beds, and all the cooking is done close to the entrance. Although the caves are nearly dark, they provide fairly comfortable living spaces and are not nearly as filthy or smelly as a typical local house. The mines are vertical shafts dug into the cliffs where the rock is quarried and crushed by hand.

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CHAPTER XX

THROUGH UNMAPPED COUNTRY

THROUGH UNKNOWN TERRITORY

We left the Taku ferry by way of a steep trail through an open pine and spruce forest along the rim of the Yangtze gorge where the view was magnificent. Someone has said that when a tourist sees the Grand Cañon for the first time he gasps "Indescribable" and then immediately begins to describe it. Thus it was with us, but no words can picture the grandeur of this titanic chasm. In places the rocks were painted in delicate tints of blue and purple; in others, the sides fell away in sheer drops of hundreds of feet to the green torrent below rushing on to the sea two thousand five hundred miles away.

We left the Taku ferry via a steep trail that wound through an open pine and spruce forest along the edge of the Yangtze gorge, where the view was breathtaking. Someone once said that when a tourist sees the Grand Canyon for the first time, they gasp "Indescribable" and then immediately start to describe it. That was how we felt, but no words can capture the grandeur of this massive chasm. In some areas, the rocks were painted in soft shades of blue and purple; in others, the cliffs dropped away in sheer drops of hundreds of feet to the rushing green waters below, making their way to the sea two thousand five hundred miles away.

The caravan wound along the edge of the gorge all day and we were left far behind, for at each turn a view more beautiful than the last opened out before us, and until every color plate and negative in the holders had been exposed we worked steadily with the camera.

The caravan moved along the edge of the gorge all day, and we fell way behind, because at every turn a view even more stunning than the last revealed itself to us, and we kept working with the camera until we had taken pictures of every color plate and negative in the holders.

We were traveling northwestward through an unmapped region which Baron Haendel-Mazzetti had skirted and reported to be one of vast forests and probably rich in game. After six hours of riding over almost bare mountain-sides we passed through a parklike spruce forest and reached Habala, a long thin village of mud and stone houses scattered up the sides of a narrow valley.

We were heading northwest through an uncharted area that Baron Haendel-Mazzetti had mentioned, describing it as a place with expansive forests and likely abundant wildlife. After six hours of riding over nearly barren mountain slopes, we entered a park-like spruce forest and arrived at Habala, a narrow, elongated village of mud and stone houses spread along the sides of a tight valley.

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Above and to the left of the village rose ridge after ridge of dense spruce forest overshadowed by a snow-crowned peak and cut by deep ravines, the gloomy depths of which yielded fascinating glimpses of rocky cliffs—a veritable paradise for serow and goral. Our camping place was a grassy lawn as flat and smooth as the putting green of a golf course. Just below the tents a streamlet of ice-cold water murmured comfortably to itself and a huge dead tree was lying crushed and broken for the camp fire.

Above and to the left of the village rose ridge after ridge of thick spruce forest, overshadowed by a snow-capped peak and intersected by deep ravines, the dark depths of which offered captivating views of rocky cliffs—a true paradise for serow and goral. Our camping spot was a grassy area as flat and smooth as a golf course putting green. Just below the tents, a stream of ice-cold water quietly murmured to itself, and a massive dead tree lay crushed and broken for the campfire.

The boys turned the beautiful spot into "home" in half an hour and, after setting a line of traps, we wandered slowly back through the darkness guided by the brilliant flames of the fires which threw a warm yellow glow over our little table spread for dinner.

The boys transformed the gorgeous spot into "home" in half an hour and, after laying out a line of traps, we strolled slowly back through the darkness, guided by the bright flames of the fires that cast a warm yellow glow over our little table set for dinner.

We sent men to the village to bring in hunters and after dinner four or five picturesque Mosos appeared. They said that there were many serow, goral, muntjac and some wapiti in the forests above the village, and we could well believe it, for there was never a more "likely looking" spot. Although the men did not claim to be professional hunters, nevertheless they said that they had good dogs and had killed many muntjac and other animals.

We sent some guys to the village to bring in hunters, and after dinner, four or five colorful Mosos showed up. They told us there were plenty of serow, goral, muntjac, and some wapiti in the forests above the village, and we totally believed them because it was the perfect spot. Even though the men didn’t claim to be professional hunters, they said they had good dogs and had taken down many muntjac and other animals.

They agreed to come at daylight and arrived about two hours late, which was doing fairly well for natives. It was a brilliant day just warm enough for comfort in the sun and we left camp with high hopes. However it did not take many hours to demonstrate that the men knew almost nothing about hunting and that their dogs were useless. Because of the dense cover "still hunting" was out of the question and, after a hard climb. We returned to camp to spend the remainder - 166 - of the afternoon developing photographs and preparing small mammals.

They agreed to show up at sunrise and arrived about two hours late, which wasn't too bad for locals. It was a beautiful day, just warm enough to enjoy the sun, and we left camp feeling optimistic. However, it didn’t take long to realize that the men knew very little about hunting and that their dogs were no good. Due to the thick underbrush, "still hunting" wasn’t an option, so after a tough climb, we went back to camp to spend the rest of the afternoon developing photos and preparing small mammals. - 166 -

Our traps had yielded three new shrews and a silver mole as well as a number of mice, rats, and meadow voles of species identical with those taken on the Snow Mountain. It was evident, therefore, that the Yangtze River does not act as an effective barrier to the distribution of even the smallest forms and that the region in which we were now working would not produce a different fauna. This was an important discovery from the standpoint of our distribution records but was also somewhat disappointing.

Our traps had caught three new shrews and a silver mole, along with several mice, rats, and meadow voles of the same species we found on Snow Mountain. It was clear, then, that the Yangtze River isn't a strong enough barrier to prevent even the smallest animals from spreading, and that the area we were currently studying wouldn't have a different set of wildlife. This was a significant finding for our distribution records, but it was also a bit disappointing.

The photographic work already had yielded excellent results. The Paget color plates were especially beautiful and the fact that everything was developed in the field gave us an opportunity to check the quality of each negative.

The photographic work had already produced excellent results. The Paget color plates were especially beautiful, and the fact that everything was developed on-site allowed us to verify the quality of each negative.

For this work the portable dark room was invaluable. It could be quickly erected and suspended from a tree branch or the rafters of a temple and offered an absolutely safe place in which to develop or load plates. The moving-picture film required special treatment because of its size and we usually fastened in the servants' tent the red lining which had been made for this purpose in New York. Even then the space was so cramped that we were dead tired at the end of a few hours' work.

For this project, the portable darkroom was essential. It could be set up quickly and hung from a tree branch or the beams of a temple, providing a completely safe place to develop or load plates. The movie film needed special handling due to its size, so we typically attached the red lining made for this purpose in New York inside the servants' tent. Even then, the space was so cramped that we were completely exhausted after just a few hours of work.

One who sits comfortably in a theater or hall and sees moving-picture film which has been obtained in such remote parts of the world does not realize the difficulties in its preparation. The water for developing almost invariably was dirty and in order to insure even a moderately clear film it always had to be strained. - 167 - For washing the negative pailful after pailful had to be carried sometimes from a very long distance, and the film exposed for hours to the carelessness or curiosity of the natives. In our cramped quarters perhaps a corner of the tent would be pushed open admitting a stream of light; the electric flash lamp might refuse to work, leaving us in complete darkness to finish the developing "by guess and by gosh," or any number of other accidents occur to ruin the film. At most we could not develop more than three hundred feet in an afternoon and we never breathed freely until it finally was dried and safely stored away in the tin cans.

Someone sitting comfortably in a theater or hall watching a film shot in far-off places doesn’t realize the challenges behind its creation. The water used for developing was usually dirty, and to achieve even a somewhat clear film, it had to be strained. - 167 - To wash the negatives, we often had to carry bucket after bucket from far away, and the film had to be exposed for hours to the carelessness or curiosity of the locals. In our cramped space, sometimes a corner of the tent would blow open, letting in a stream of light; the electric flash lamp might not work, leaving us in total darkness to develop things "by guess and by gosh," and countless other accidents could ruin the film. At most, we could only develop about three hundred feet in an afternoon, and we never felt relieved until it was finally dried and safely stored away in tin cans.

We left Habala, on November 28, for a village called Phete where the natives had assured us we would find good hunters with dogs. For almost the entire distance the road skirted the rim of the Yangtze gorge and there the view of the great chasm was even more magnificent than that we had left. While its sides are not fantastically sculptured and the colors are softer than those of the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, nevertheless its grandeur is hardly less imposing and awe-inspiring. If Yün-nan is ever made accessible by railroads this gorge should become a Mecca for tourists, for it is without doubt one of the most remarkable natural sights in the world.

We left Habala on November 28 for a village called Phete, where the locals promised us we would find good hunters with dogs. For almost the entire trip, the road followed the edge of the Yangtze gorge, and the view of the massive chasm was even more breathtaking than what we had just seen. While its sides aren't dramatically shaped and the colors are softer than those of the Grand Canyon in Colorado, its grandeur is still incredibly impressive and inspiring. If Yün-nan ever gets connected by railroads, this gorge should become a must-visit spot for tourists, as it is undoubtedly one of the most stunning natural sights in the world.

About two o'clock in the afternoon we saw three clusters of houses on a tableland which juts into a chasm cut by a tributary of the great river. One of them was Phete and it seemed that we would reach the village in half an hour at least, but the road wound so tortuously around the hillside, down to the stream and up again that it was an hour and a half before we found a camping - 168 - place on a narrow terrace a short distance from the nearest houses.

Around two o'clock in the afternoon, we spotted three clusters of houses on a plateau that jutted into a gorge created by a tributary of the main river. One of those clusters was Phete, and it seemed we would reach the village in at least half an hour. However, the road twisted and turned so much around the hillside, leading down to the stream and back up again, that it took us an hour and a half before we found a camping spot on a narrow terrace a short distance from the nearest houses. - 168 -

Next day we could not go to the village to find hunters until mid-forenoon because the natives of this region are very late risers and often have not yet opened their doors at ten o'clock. This is quite contrary to the custom in many other parts of China where the inhabitants are about their work in the first light of dawn.

Next day we couldn't head to the village to find hunters until late morning because the locals in this area are really late sleepers and often haven't opened their doors by ten o'clock. This is pretty different from many other parts of China, where people are already getting to work at dawn.

The hills above Phete are bare or thinly forested and every available inch of level ground is under cultivation with corn and a few rice paddys near the creek; the latter were a great surprise, for we had not expected to find rice so far north. The village itself was exceedingly picturesque but never have we met people of such utter and hopeless stupidity as its inhabitants. They were pleasant enough and always greeted us with a smile and salutation, but their brains seemed not to have kept pace with their bodies and when asked the simplest question they would only stare stupidly without the slightest glimmering of intelligence.

The hills above Phete are bare or sparsely wooded, and every bit of flat land is being used for farming corn, with a few rice paddies by the creek; the latter was quite a surprise, as we didn't expect to find rice this far north. The village itself was very picturesque, but we had never encountered people with such complete and hopeless ignorance as its residents. They were friendly enough and always welcomed us with a smile and greeting, but their minds seemed to lag behind their bodies, and when we asked even the simplest questions, they would just stare blankly without a hint of understanding.

It required an hour's questioning of a dozen or more people to glean that there were no hunters in the village where they had lived all their lives, but Wu, our interpreter, finally discovered a Chinese who told us of a hunter in the mountains. He asked how far and the answer was "Not very far."

It took an hour of questioning a dozen or more people to find out that there were no hunters in the village where they had lived all their lives, but Wu, our interpreter, eventually found a Chinese man who told us about a hunter in the mountains. He asked how far it was, and the reply was, "Not very far."

"Well, is it ten li!"

"Well, is it ten li?"

"I don't know how many li."

"I don't know how many."

"Have you ever been there?"

"Have you been there?"

"Yes; it is only a few steps."

"Yeah, it’s just a short walk."

"How long will it take to get there?"

"About the time of one meal."

"During mealtime."

We were not to be deceived, for we had had experience - 169 - with native ideas of distance, and we ate our tiffin before starting out on the "few steps." A steep trail led up the valley and after three hours of steady riding we reached the hunter's village of three large houses on a flat strip of cleared ground in the midst of a dense forest.

We weren't going to be fooled because we had experience with local perceptions of distance, so we had our lunch before embarking on the "few steps." A steep path wound up the valley, and after three hours of steady riding, we arrived at the hunter's village, which consisted of three large houses on a flat area cleared in the middle of a dense forest. - 169 -

The people looked much like those of Phete but were rather anemic specimens, and five out of eight had enormous goiters. They were exceedingly shy at first, watching us with side glances and through cracks in the wall. Wu learned that we were the first white persons they had ever seen. I imagine that much of their unhealthiness was due to too close intermarriage, for these families had little intercourse with the people in Phete who were only "a few steps" away.

The people looked a lot like those from Phete but were pretty unhealthy, and five out of eight had huge goiters. They were very shy at first, watching us with sideways glances and peeking through cracks in the wall. Wu found out that we were the first white people they had ever seen. I think a lot of their health issues came from too much intermarriage, since these families had minimal interaction with the people in Phete, who were only "a few steps" away.

As we were leaving they began to eat their supper in the courtyard. The principal dish consisted of mixed cornmeal and rice, boiled squash and green vegetables. All the women were busy husking corn which was hung to dry on great racks about the house. These racks we had noticed in every village since leaving Li-chiang and they seemed to be in universal use in the north.

As we were leaving, they started having their supper in the courtyard. The main dish was a mix of cornmeal and rice, along with boiled squash and green vegetables. All the women were busy husking corn that was hung to dry on large racks around the house. We had seen these racks in every village since leaving Li-chiang, and they appeared to be commonly used in the north.

The hunter had a flock of sheep and we purchased one for $4.40 (Mexican) but there was considerable difficulty in paying for it since these people had never seen Chinese money even though living in China itself. For currency they used chunks of silver the size of a walnut and worth about one dollar (Mexican). The Chinese guide finally persuaded the people of the genuineness of our money and we purchased a few eggs and a little very delicious wild honey besides the sheep. These people as well as those of Phete spoke the Li-chiang dialect but with such variation that even our - 170 - mafus could understand them only with the greatest difficulty.

The hunter had a herd of sheep, and we bought one for $4.40 (Mexican), but it was quite hard to pay for it since these people had never seen Chinese money, even though they lived in China. For money, they used pieces of silver the size of a walnut, worth about one dollar (Mexican). The Chinese guide eventually convinced them that our money was real, and we also bought a few eggs and some really tasty wild honey along with the sheep. These people, along with those from Phete, spoke the Li-chiang dialect, but with such differences that even our - 170 - mafus could understand them only with a lot of difficulty.

When we returned to camp we found that the coolie who had been engaged to carry the motion-picture camera and tripod had left without the formality of saying "good-by" or asking for the money which was due him. We had had considerable trouble with the camera coolies since leaving Li-chiang. The first one carried the camera to the Taku ferry with many groans, and there engaged a huge Chinaman to take his place, for he thought the load too heavy. It only weighed fifty pounds, and in the Fukien Province where men seldom carry less than eighty pounds and sometimes as much as one hundred and fifty, it would have been considered as only half a burden. In Yün-nan, however, animals do most of the pack carrying, and coolies protest at even an ordinary load.

When we got back to camp, we found that the porter we hired to carry the camera and tripod had left without even saying "goodbye" or asking for the money he was owed. We had dealt with a lot of issues with the porters since leaving Li-chiang. The first one carried the camera to the Taku ferry with a lot of complaining, and there he hired a big guy to take over for him because he thought the load was too heavy. It only weighed fifty pounds, and in Fukien Province, where men usually carry at least eighty pounds, and sometimes as much as one hundred and fifty, it would have been seen as only half a load. In Yün-nan, though, most of the pack carrying is done by animals, and porters complain about even a normal load.

We left Phete in the early morning and camped about five hundred feet above the hunter's cabin in a beautiful little meadow. It was surrounded with splendid pine trees, and a clear spring bubbled up from a knoll in the center and spread fan-shaped in a dozen little streams over the edge of a deep ravine where a mountain torrent rushed through a tangled bamboo jungle. The gigantic fallen trees were covered inches deep with green moss, and altogether it was an ideal spot for small mammals. Our traps, however, yielded no new species, although we secured dozens of specimens every night.

We left Phete early in the morning and set up camp about five hundred feet above the hunter's cabin in a lovely little meadow. It was surrounded by beautiful pine trees, and a clear spring bubbled up from a knoll in the center, spreading out in a fan shape into a dozen little streams that flowed over the edge of a deep ravine where a mountain torrent rushed through a tangled bamboo jungle. The massive fallen trees were covered with inches of green moss, and overall it was a perfect spot for small mammals. However, our traps didn’t catch any new species, although we collected dozens of specimens every night.

There were a few families of Lolos about two miles away and these were engaged as hunters. They told us that serow and muntjac were abundant and that wapiti were sometimes found on the mountains several - 171 - miles to the northward. Although the men had a large pack of good dogs they were such unsatisfactory hunters that we gave up in disgust after three days. They never would appear until ten or eleven o'clock in the morning when the sun had so dried the leaves that the scent was lost and the dogs could not follow a trail even if one were found. Moreover, the camp was a very uncomfortable one, due to the wind which roared through the trees night and day.

There were a few families of Lolos about two miles away, and they worked as hunters. They told us that serow and muntjac were plentiful and that wapiti could sometimes be found on the mountains several miles to the north. Even though the men had a large pack of good dogs, they were such poor hunters that we gave up in frustration after three days. They always showed up around ten or eleven o'clock in the morning, when the sun had dried the leaves so much that the scent was lost, and the dogs couldn’t follow a trail even if one was found. Plus, the camp was really uncomfortable because the wind kept howling through the trees day and night. - 171 -

We were rejoined here by Hotenfa, who had left us at the Taku ferry to see if he could get together a pack of dogs. He brought three hounds with him which he praised exuberantly, but we subsequently found that they did not justify our hopes. Nevertheless, we were glad to have Hotenfa back, for he was one of the most intelligent, faithful, and altogether charming natives whom we met in all Yün-nan. He was an uncouth savage when he first came to us, but in a very short time he had learned our camp ways and was as good a servant as any we had.

We were joined again here by Hotenfa, who had left us at the Taku ferry to see if he could round up a pack of dogs. He brought back three hounds that he praised enthusiastically, but we later found they didn't live up to our expectations. Still, we were happy to have Hotenfa back, as he was one of the smartest, most loyal, and altogether delightful locals we met in all of Yün-nan. He was pretty rough around the edges when he first joined us, but in no time, he had learned our camp routines and was as good a servant as any we had.

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CHAPTER XXI

TRAVELING TOWARD TIBET

Traveling to Tibet

Since the hunters at the "Windy Camp" had proved so worthless and the traps had yielded no small mammals new to our collection, we decided to cross the mountains toward the Chung-tien road which leads into Tibet.

Since the hunters at the "Windy Camp" had proven to be so unproductive and the traps hadn’t caught any small mammals new to our collection, we decided to head over the mountains toward the Chung-tien road that leads into Tibet.

The head mafu explored the trail and reported that it was impassable but, after an examination of some of the worst barriers, we decided that they could be cleared away and ordered the caravan to start at half past seven in the morning.

The leader mafu checked the trail and said it was blocked, but after looking at some of the biggest obstacles, we figured we could clear them and told the caravan to start at 7:30 in the morning.

Before long we found that the mafus were right. The trail was a mass of tangled underbrush and fallen logs and led straight up a precipitous mountain through a veritable jungle of dwarf bamboo. It was necessary to stop every few yards to lift the loads over a barrier or cut a passage through the bamboo thickets, and had it not been for the adjustable pack saddles we never could have taken the caravan over the trail.

Before long, we realized that the mafus were right. The trail was a mess of tangled underbrush and fallen logs, leading straight up a steep mountain through a real jungle of dwarf bamboo. We had to stop every few yards to lift the loads over obstacles or cut a path through the bamboo thickets, and if it hadn't been for the adjustable pack saddles, we would never have managed to get the caravan over the trail.

Late in the afternoon the exhausted men and animals dragged themselves to the summit of the mountain, for it was not a pass. In a few hours we had come from autumn to mid-winter where the ground was frozen and covered with snow. We were at an altitude of more than 15,000 feet and far above all timber except the rhododendron forest which spread itself out in a low gray mass along the ridges. It was difficult to make - 173 - the slightest exertion in the thin air and a bitterly cold wind swept across the peaks so that it was impossible to keep warm even when wrapped in our heaviest coats.

Late in the afternoon, the tired men and animals crawled to the top of the mountain, as it wasn't a pass. In just a few hours, we had gone from autumn to mid-winter, where the ground was frozen and covered in snow. We were at an elevation of over 15,000 feet, well above any trees except for the rhododendron forest, which sprawled out in a low gray mass along the ridges. It was hard to make even the slightest movement in the thin air, and a biting cold wind swept across the peaks, making it impossible to stay warm even while bundled in our heaviest coats.

The servants and mafus suffered considerably but it was too late to go on and there was no alternative but to spend the night on the mountain. As soon as the tents were up the men huddled disconsolately about the fire, but we started out with a bag of traps while Heller went in the opposite direction. We expected to catch some new mammals during the night, for there were great numbers of runways on the bare hillsides. The ground was frozen so solidly that it was necessary to cut into the little Microtus tunnels with a hatchet in order to set the traps and we were almost frozen before the work was completed. The next morning we had caught twenty specimens of a new white-bellied meadow vole and a remarkable shrew with a long curved proboscis.

The servants and mafus endured a lot, but it was too late to move forward, and there was no choice but to spend the night on the mountain. Once the tents were set up, the men gathered sadly around the fire, while we headed out with a bag of traps, and Heller went in the opposite direction. We hoped to catch some new mammals during the night since there were plenty of runways on the bare hillsides. The ground was frozen so hard that we had to cut into the tiny Microtus tunnels with a hatchet to set the traps, and we were nearly frozen by the time we finished. The next morning, we had caught twenty specimens of a new white-bellied meadow vole and an incredible shrew with a long curved snout.

Everyone had spent an uncomfortable night, for it was bitterly cold even in our sleeping bags and the men had sat up about the fire in order to keep from freezing. There was little difficulty in getting the caravan started in the gray light of early dawn and after descending abruptly four thousand feet on a precipitous trail to a Lolo village strung out along a beautiful little valley we were again in the pleasant warmth of late autumn.

Everyone had a rough night because it was freezing even in our sleeping bags, and the men stayed up by the fire to avoid freezing. It was easy to get the caravan moving in the dim light of early dawn, and after quickly descending four thousand feet on a steep trail to a Lolo village located in a lovely little valley, we were back in the nice warmth of late autumn.

The natives here had never before seen a white person and in a few moments our tents were surrounded by a crowd of strange-looking men and boys. The chief of the village presented us with an enormous rooster and we made him happy by returning two tins of cigarettes. The Lolo women, the first we had seen, were especially surprising because of their graceful figures - 174 - and handsome faces. Their flat turbans, short jackets, and long skirts with huge flounces gave them a rather old-fashioned aspect, quite out of harmony with the metal neck-bands, earrings, and bracelets which they all wore.

The locals here had never seen a white person before, and within moments, our tents were surrounded by a crowd of unfamiliar-looking men and boys. The village chief gifted us a huge rooster, and we made him happy by giving him two tins of cigarettes in return. The Lolo women, the first we had encountered, were especially striking due to their graceful figures and beautiful faces. Their flat turbans, short jackets, and long skirts with big flounces made them look rather old-fashioned, which contrasted sharply with the metal neckbands, earrings, and bracelets they all wore. - 174 -

The men were exceedingly pleasant and made a picturesque group in their gray and brown felt capes which they gather about the neck by a draw string and, to the Lolos and Mosos alike, are both bed and clothing. We collected all the men for their photographs, and although they had not the slightest idea what we were about they stood quietly after Hotenfa had assured them that the strange-looking instrument would not go off. But most interesting of all was their astonishment when half an hour later they saw the negative and were able to identify themselves upon it.

The men were incredibly friendly and formed a striking group in their gray and brown felt capes, which they tightened around their necks with a drawstring and used as both bedding and clothing. We gathered all the men for photos, and even though they had no clue what we were doing, they stood still after Hotenfa assured them that the odd-looking device wouldn’t go off. But what fascinated them the most was their surprise when, half an hour later, they saw the negative and could recognize themselves on it.

The Lolos are apparently a much maligned race. They are exceedingly independent, and although along the frontier of their own territory in S'suchuan they wage a war of robbery and destruction it is not wholly unprovoked. No one can enter their country safely unless he is under the protection of a chief who acts as a sponsor and passes him along to others. Mr. Brooke, an Englishman, was killed by the Lolos, but he was not properly "chaperoned," and Major D'Ollone of the French expedition lived among them safely for some time and gives them unstinted praise.

The Lolos are clearly a misunderstood group. They value their independence highly, and while they engage in robbery and destruction along the border of their territory in S'suchuan, it's not entirely without cause. No one can safely enter their land unless they’re accompanied by a chief who acts as a sponsor and helps them navigate through. Mr. Brooke, an Englishman, was killed by the Lolos, but he wasn’t properly “chaperoned.” On the other hand, Major D’Ollone from the French expedition lived with them safely for quite a while and speaks very highly of them.

Whenever we met tribesmen in Yün-nan who had not seen white persons they behaved much like all other natives. They were, of course, always greatly astonished to see our caravan descend upon them and were invariably fascinated by our guns, tents, and in fact everything about us, but were generally shy and decidedly less offensive in their curiosity than the Chinese of the larger inland towns to whom foreigners are by no means unknown. As a matter of fact we have found that our white skins, light eyes, and hair are a never failing source of interest and envy to almost all Orientals.

Whenever we met tribespeople in Yün-nan who had never seen white people, they reacted similarly to other locals. They were always incredibly surprised to see our caravan arrive and were genuinely intrigued by our guns, tents, and everything about us. However, they were usually shy and showed much less intrusive curiosity compared to the Chinese from the bigger inland towns, where foreigners are more common. In fact, we found that our white skin, light eyes, and hair were consistently a source of fascination and envy for almost all people from the East.

Lolo Village

Lolos Seeing Their Pictures for the First Time

- 175 -

Yvette usually excited the most curiosity, especially among the women, and as she wore knickerbockers and a flannel shirt there were times when the determination of her sex seemed to call forth the liveliest discussion. Her long hair, however, usually settled the matter, and then the women had decided the question of gender satisfactorily they often made timid, and most amusing, advances. One woman said she greatly admired her fair complexion and asked how many baths she took to keep her skin so white. Another wondered whether it was necessary to ever comb her hair and almost everyone wished to feel her clothes and shoes. She always would command more attention than anyone else by her camera operations, and a group would stand in speechless amazement to see her dodge in and out of the portable dark room when she was developing photographs or loading plates.

Yvette usually sparked the most curiosity, especially among the women. With her knickerbockers and flannel shirt, there were times when her determination as a woman led to lively discussions. However, her long hair typically settled the matter, and once the women confidently decided her gender, they often made shy, yet amusing, advances. One woman said she really admired Yvette's fair complexion and asked how many baths she took to keep her skin so white. Another wondered if she ever needed to comb her hair, and almost everyone wanted to feel her clothes and shoes. She always managed to attract more attention than anyone else with her photography, and a crowd would stand in speechless amazement watching her dart in and out of the portable dark room while developing photos or loading plates.

We made arrangements to go with a number of the Lolos to a spot fifteen miles away on the Chung-tien road to hunt wapiti (probably Cervus macneilli) which the natives call maloo. Our American wapiti, or elk, is a migrant from Asia by way of the Bering Strait and is probably a relative of the wapiti which is found in Central Asia, China, Manchuria and Korea.

We planned to go with several of the Lolos to a place fifteen miles down the Chung-tien road to hunt wapiti (probably Cervus macneilli), which the locals call maloo. Our American wapiti, or elk, migrated from Asia via the Bering Strait and is likely related to the wapiti found in Central Asia, China, Manchuria, and Korea.

At present these deer are abundant in but few places. Throughout the Orient, and especially in China, the growing horns when they are soft, or in the "velvet," - 176 - are considered of great medicinal value and, during the summer, the animals are trapped and hunted relentlessly by the natives. In Yün-nan, when we were there, a pair of horns were worth $100 (Mexican).

Currently, these deer are only found in a few places. Throughout the East, especially in China, the growing horns when they are soft, or in "velvet," - 176 - are seen as having significant medicinal value, and during the summer, locals trap and hunt these animals without mercy. When we were in Yün-nan, a pair of horns sold for $100 (Mexican).

Thanksgiving morning dawned gray and raw with occasional flurries of haillike snow, but we did not heed the cold, for the trail led over two high ridges and along the rim of a tremendous gorge. To the south the white summits of the Snow Mountain range towered majestically above the surrounding peaks and, in the gray light, the colors were beautiful beyond description. To the north we could see heavily wooded mountain slopes interspersed with open parklike meadows—splendid wapiti country.

Thanksgiving morning started off gray and chilly with occasional flurries of hail-like snow, but we didn’t pay attention to the cold, because the trail took us over two high ridges and along the edge of a huge gorge. To the south, the white peaks of the Snow Mountain range loomed majestically above the surrounding hills, and in the gray light, the colors were stunning beyond words. To the north, we could see thickly wooded mountain slopes mixed with open, park-like meadows—gorgeous wapiti territory.

Our tents were pitched two hundred yards from the Chung-tien road just within the edge of a stately, moss-draped forest. That night we celebrated with harmless bombs from the huge fires of bamboo stalks which exploded as they filled with steam and echoed among the trees like pistol shots. Marco Polo speaks of the same phenomenon which he first witnessed in this region over six hundred and thirty years ago.

Our tents were set up two hundred yards from the Chung-tien road, right at the edge of a majestic, moss-covered forest. That night, we celebrated with harmless bombs made from large bamboo stalks that exploded as they filled with steam, echoing through the trees like gunshots. Marco Polo described the same occurrence that he first saw in this area over six hundred thirty years ago.

About nine o'clock in the evening we ran our traps with a lantern and besides several mice (Apodemus) found two rare shrews and a new mole (Blarina). I went out with the hunters at dawn but saw nothing except an old wapiti track and a little sign. All during the following day a dense fog hung close to the ground so that it was impossible to hunt, and, on the night of December 2, it snowed heavily. The morning began bright and clear but clouded about ten o'clock and became so bitterly cold that the Lolos would not hunt. They really suffered considerably and that night they - 177 - all left us to return to their homes. We were greatly disappointed, for we had brilliant prospects of good wapiti shooting but without either men or dogs and in an unknown country there was little possibility of successful still hunting.

About nine o'clock in the evening, we checked our traps with a lantern and found several mice (Apodemus), along with two rare shrews and a new mole (Blarina). I went out with the hunters at dawn, but saw nothing except an old wapiti track and a little sign. The next day, a thick fog hung low to the ground, making it impossible to hunt. That night, on December 2, it snowed heavily. The morning was bright and clear, but by ten o'clock it became overcast and so bitterly cold that the Lolos wouldn’t hunt. They really struggled, and that night they all left to go back to their homes. We were really disappointed because we had high hopes of good wapiti shooting, but without men or dogs in unfamiliar territory, there was little chance of successful still hunting.

The mafus were very much worried and refused to go further north. They were certain that we would not be able to cross the high passes which lay between us and the Mekong valley far to the westward and complained unceasingly about the freezing cold and the lack of food for their animals. It was necessary to visit the Mekong River, for even though it might not be a good big game region it would give us a cross-section, as it were, of the fauna and important data on the distribution of small mammals. Therefore we decided to leave for the long ride as soon as the weather permitted.

The mafus were really worried and didn't want to go any further north. They were convinced we wouldn’t be able to cross the high passes that separated us from the Mekong valley far to the west, and they kept complaining about the freezing cold and the lack of food for their animals. It was important to visit the Mekong River, because even if it wasn't a great area for big game, it would give us a good overview of the wildlife and crucial information on the distribution of small mammals. So, we decided to set out for the long ride as soon as the weather allowed.

- 178 -

CHAPTER XXII

STALKING TIBETANS WITH A CAMERA

Filming Tibetans with a camera

Y. B. A.

Y.B.A.

The road near which we were camped was one of the great trade routes into Tibet and over it caravans were continually passing laden with tea or pork. Many of them had traveled the entire length of Yün-nan to S'su-mao on the Tonking frontier where a special kind of tea is grown, and were hurrying northward to cross the snow-covered passes which form the gateways to the "Forbidden Land."

The road where we were camped was a major trade route into Tibet, constantly busy with caravans loaded with tea or pork. Many of them had journeyed all the way from Yün-nan to S'su-mao on the Tonking border, where a special type of tea is produced, and were rushing north to cross the snowy passes that lead to the "Forbidden Land."

The caravans sometimes stopped for luncheon or to spend the night near our camp. As the horses came up, one by one the loads were lifted off, the animals turned loose, and after their dinner of buttered tea and tsamba[5] each man stretched out upon the ground without shelter of any kind and heedless of the freezing cold. It is truly the life of primitive man and has bred a hardy, restless, independent race, content to wander over the boundless steppes and demanding from the outside world only to be let alone.

The caravans would sometimes stop for lunch or to spend the night near our camp. As the horses arrived one by one, the loads were lifted off, the animals were set free, and after their meal of buttered tea and tsamba[5], each person would lie down on the ground without any shelter and without caring about the freezing cold. It really represents the life of primitive people and has created a tough, restless, independent group, happy to roam the endless steppes and asking the outside world only to leave them alone.

[5] Tsamba is parched oats or barley, ground finely.

[5] Tsamba is dried oats or barley that have been ground into a fine powder.

They are picturesque, wild-looking fellows, and in their swinging walk there is a care-free independence and an atmosphere of the bleak Tibetan steppes which are strangely fascinating. Every Tibetan is a study for an artist. He wears a fur cap and a long loose coat - 179 - like a Russian blouse thrown carelessly off one shoulder and tied about the waist, blue or red trousers, and high boots of felt or skin reaching almost to the knees. A long sword, its hilt inlaid with bright-colored bits of glass or stones, is half concealed beneath his coat, and he is seldom without a gun or a murderous looking spear.

They are striking, rugged-looking guys, and in their relaxed stride, there's a carefree independence and a vibe of the stark Tibetan steppes that's oddly intriguing. Every Tibetan could be a subject for an artist. He sports a fur cap and a long, loose coat, like a Russian blouse casually draped off one shoulder and cinched at the waist, blue or red trousers, and tall boots made of felt or leather that come almost up to his knees. A long sword, with its hilt decorated with colorful bits of glass or stones, is partially hidden under his coat, and he often carries a gun or a menacing-looking spear. - 179 -

In the breast of his loose coat, which acts as a pocket, he carries a remarkable assortment of things; a pipe, tobacco, tea, tsamba, cooking pots, a snuff box and, hanging down in front, a metal charm to protect him from bullets or sickness.

In the pocket of his loose coat, he carries a surprising variety of items: a pipe, tobacco, tea, tsamba, cooking pots, a snuff box, and hanging in front, a metal charm for protection against bullets or illness.

The eastern Tibetans are men of splendid physique and great strength, and are frequently more than six feet in height. They have brick-red complexions and some are really handsome in a full-blooded masculine way. Their straight features suggest a strong mixture of other than Mongolian stock and they are the direct antithesis of the Chinese in every particular. Their strength and virility and the dashing swing of their walk are very refreshing after contact with the ease-loving, effeminate Chinaman whom one sees being carried along the road sprawled in a mountain chair.

The eastern Tibetans are strong and impressive, often standing over six feet tall. They have brick-red skin tones, and some are quite handsome in a ruggedly masculine way. Their straight features indicate a strong blend of non-Mongolian ancestry, making them the complete opposite of the Chinese in every way. Their strength and masculinity, along with the energetic way they walk, feel refreshing after encountering the relaxed, more delicate Chinese individual who is often seen lounging in a chair carried along the road.

Of all natives whom we tried to photograph the Tibetans were the most difficult. It was almost impossible to bribe them with money or tin cans to stand for a moment and when they saw the motion picture camera set up beside the trail they would make long detours to avoid passing in front of it.

Of all the locals we tried to photograph, the Tibetans were the hardest. It was nearly impossible to convince them with money or tin cans to pose for even a moment, and when they spotted the movie camera set up by the trail, they would take long detours to avoid walking in front of it.

What we could not get by bribery we tried to do by stealth and concealed ourselves behind bushes with the camera focused on a certain spot upon the road. The instant a Tibetan discovered it he would run like a - 180 - frightened deer and in some mysterious way they seemed to have passed the word along that our camp was a spot to be avoided. Sometimes a bottle was too great a temptation to be resisted, and one would stand timidly like a bird with wings half spread, only to dash away as though the devil were after him, when he saw my head disappear beneath the focusing hood.

What we couldn't get by bribing people, we tried to achieve through stealth. We hid behind bushes with the camera focused on a specific spot on the road. The moment a Tibetan spotted it, he would take off like a scared deer, and somehow they seemed to have shared the news that our camp was a place to avoid. Sometimes, a bottle was just too tempting to resist, and one would linger hesitantly like a bird about to take flight, only to flee as if the devil were chasing him when he noticed my head ducking under the focusing hood. - 180 -

Wu and a mafu who could speak a little Tibetan finally captured one picturesque looking fellow. He carefully tucked the tin cans, given for advance payment, inside his coat, and with a great show of bravery allowed me to place him where I wished. But the instant the motion picture camera swung in his direction he dodged aside, and jumped behind it. Wu tried to hold him but the Tibetan drew his sword, waved it wildly about his head and took to his heels, yelling at the top of his lungs. He was well-nigh frightened to death and when he disappeared from sight at a curve in the road he was still "going strong" with his coat tails flapping like a sail in the wind.

Wu and a mafu who spoke a little Tibetan finally caught a charming-looking guy. He carefully tucked the tin cans, which were given as an advance payment, inside his coat and, putting on a brave front, let me position him wherever I wanted. But as soon as the camera swung in his direction, he dodged away and jumped behind it. Wu tried to hold him back, but the Tibetan pulled out his sword, waved it wildly over his head, and bolted, yelling at the top of his lungs. He was nearly scared to death, and when he disappeared around a bend in the road, he was still "going strong," with his coat tails flapping like a sail in the wind.

One caravan came suddenly upon the motion picture camera unawares. There were several women in the party and, as soon as the men realized that there was no escape, each one dodged behind a woman, keeping her between him and the camera. They were taking no chances with their precious selves, for the women could be replaced easily enough if necessary.

One caravan unexpectedly stumbled upon the movie camera. There were a few women in the group, and as soon as the men figured out there was no way to escape, each one ducked behind a woman, using her as a shield between himself and the camera. They weren't taking any chances with their precious selves, since the women could easily be replaced if needed.

The trouble is that the Tibetan not unnaturally has the greatest possible suspicion and dislike for strangers. The Chinese he loathes and despises, and foreigners he knows only too well are symptoms of missionaries and punitive expeditions or other disturbances of his immemorial peace. He is confirmed in his attitude by the Church which throughout Tibet has the monopoly of all the gold in the country. And the Church utterly declines to believe that any foreigner can come so far for any end less foolish than the discovery of gold and the infringing of the ecclesiastical monopoly.

The issue is that the Tibetan naturally has a strong suspicion and dislike for outsiders. He hates and looks down on the Chinese, and he knows all too well that foreigners usually bring missionaries, military interventions, or other disruptions to his long-held peace. His views are supported by the Church, which has a monopoly on all the wealth in the region. The Church completely refuses to accept that any foreigner would travel this far for any reason other than to find gold and challenge their religious control.

Travelers in the Mekong Valley

Two Tibetan people

- 181 -

Major Davies, who saw much of the Yün-nan Tibetans, has remarked that it is curious how little impression the civilization and customs of the Chinese have produced on the Tibetans. Elsewhere, one of the principal characteristics of Chinese expansion is its power of absorbing other races, but with the Tibetans exactly the reverse takes place. The Chinese become Tibetanized and the children of a Chinaman married to a Tibetan woman are usually brought up in the Tibetan customs.

Major Davies, who had extensive interactions with the Yün-nan Tibetans, noted how surprising it is that the civilization and customs of the Chinese have had such a minimal impact on the Tibetans. In other places, a key feature of Chinese expansion is its ability to assimilate other cultures, but with the Tibetans, it's the opposite. The Chinese become influenced by Tibetan culture, and the children of a Chinese man married to a Tibetan woman are typically raised according to Tibetan traditions.

Probably the great cause which keeps the Tibetan from being absorbed is the cold, inhospitable nature of his country. There is little to tempt the Chinese to emigrate into Tibet and consequently they never are there in sufficient numbers to influence the Tibetans around them. A similar cause has preserved some of the low-lying Shan states from absorption, the heat in this case being the reason that the Chinese do not settle there.

Probably the main reason why Tibetans aren’t absorbed is the cold, unwelcoming nature of their country. There’s not much to attract the Chinese to move to Tibet, so they never settle there in large enough numbers to impact the Tibetans around them. A similar factor has kept some of the low-lying Shan states from being absorbed, with the heat in this case being why the Chinese don’t establish themselves there.

- 182 -

CHAPTER XXIII

WESTWARD TO THE MEKONG RIVER

Westward to the Mekong River

During the night of December 4, there was a heavy fall of snow and in the morning we awoke to find ourselves in fairyland. We were living in a great white palace, with ceiling and walls of filmy glittering webs. The long, delicate strands of gray moss which draped themselves from tree to tree and branch to branch were each one converted into threads of crystal, forming a filigree lacework, infinitely beautiful.

During the night of December 4, it snowed heavily and in the morning we woke up to find ourselves in a fairytale. We were living in a huge white palace, with ceilings and walls made of shimmering, delicate webs. The long, thin strands of gray moss hanging from tree to tree and branch to branch had each transformed into threads of crystal, creating an incredibly beautiful lacework.

It was hard to break camp and leave that silver palace, for every vista through the forest seemed more lovely than the one before, but we knew that another fall of snow would block the passes and shut us out from the Mekong valley. The mafus even refused to try the direct route across the mountains to Wei-hsi and insisted on going southward to the Shih-ku ferry and up the Yangtze River on the main caravan route.

It was tough to pack up and leave that beautiful silver palace, as every view through the forest looked more stunning than the last. But we knew that another snowfall would block the passes and cut us off from the Mekong valley. The mafus even refused to take the direct route over the mountains to Wei-hsi and insisted on going south to the Shih-ku ferry and then up the Yangtze River along the main caravan route.

It was a long trip and we looked forward with no pleasure to eight days of hard riding. The difficulty in obtaining hunters since leaving the Snow Mountain had made our big game collecting negligible although we had traveled through some excellent country. The Mekong valley might not be better but it was an unknown quantity and, whether or not it yielded specimens, the results from a survey of the mammal distribution would be none the less important, and we felt that - 183 - it must be done; otherwise we should have turned our backs on the north and returned to Ta-li Fu.

It was a long journey, and we weren't looking forward to eight days of tough riding. The challenge of finding hunters since leaving the Snow Mountain had made our big game collection minimal, even though we had gone through some great areas. The Mekong Valley might not be better, but it was a total mystery, and whether or not we found specimens, the insights from studying the distribution of mammals would still be crucial. We felt it had to be done; otherwise, we would have turned our backs on the north and gone back to Ta-li Fu. - 183 -

As we rode down the mountain trail we passed caravan after caravan of Tibetans with heavily loaded horses, all bound for that land of mystery beyond the snow-capped barriers. Often we tried to stop some of the red-skinned natives and persuade them to pose for a color photograph, but usually they only shook their heads stubbornly and hurried past with averted faces. We finally waylaid a Chinese and a Tibetan who were walking together. The Chinaman was an amiable fellow and by giving each of them a glass jam tumbler they halted a moment. As soon as the photograph had been taken the Chinese indicated that he expected us to produce one and was thoroughly disgusted when we showed him that it was impossible.

As we rode down the mountain trail, we passed caravan after caravan of Tibetans with heavily loaded horses, all heading for that mysterious land beyond the snow-capped mountains. We often tried to stop some of the red-skinned locals and convince them to pose for a color photograph, but usually, they just shook their heads stubbornly and hurried past with their faces turned away. Eventually, we managed to stop a Chinese man and a Tibetan who were walking together. The Chinese man was friendly, and by giving each of them a glass jam jar, they paused for a moment. Once the photo was taken, the Chinese man indicated that he expected us to give him a copy and was completely disappointed when we showed him that it wasn’t possible.

Repassing the Lolo village, we followed the river gorge at the upper end of which Chung-tien is located and left the forests when we emerged on the main road. From the top of a ten thousand foot pass there was a magnificent view down the cañon to the snow-capped mountains, which were beautiful beyond description in their changing colors of purple and gold.

Repassing the village of Lolo, we followed the river gorge, where Chung-tien is located at the upper end, and stepped out of the forests when we reached the main road. From the top of a ten-thousand-foot pass, there was an amazing view down the canyon to the snow-capped mountains, which were stunning beyond words with their shifting shades of purple and gold.

Just after leaving the pass we met a caravan of several hundred horses each bearing two whole pigs bent double and tied to the saddles. The animals had been denuded of hair, salted, and sewn up, and soon would be distributed among the villages somewhere in the interior of Tibet.

Just after leaving the pass, we encountered a caravan of several hundred horses, each carrying two whole pigs tied to the saddles in a bent position. The pigs had been stripped of their hair, salted, and stitched up, and would soon be delivered to villages somewhere in the interior of Tibet.

On the second day we saw before us seven snow-crowned peaks as sharp and regular as the teeth of a saw rising above the mouth of the stream where it spreads like a fan over a sandy delta and empties into - 184 - the Yangtze. Here the mighty river, flowing proudly southward from its home in the wind-blown steppes of the "Forbidden Land," countless ages ago found the great Snow Mountain range barring its path. Thrust aside, it doubled back upon itself along the barrier's base, still restlessly seeking a passage through the wall of rock. Far to the north it bit hungrily into the mountain's side again, broke through, and swung south gathering strength and volume from hundreds of tributaries as it rushed onward to the sea.

On the second day, we saw seven snow-capped peaks in front of us, sharp and straight like the teeth of a saw, rising above the mouth of the stream that spreads like a fan over a sandy delta before emptying into the - 184 - Yangtze. Here, the mighty river flows confidently southward from its origin in the wind-swept steppes of the "Forbidden Land." Ages ago, it encountered the great Snow Mountain range blocking its way. Rejected, it turned back along the base of the barrier, still seeking a route through the wall of rock. Far to the north, it dug hungrily into the mountain's side again, broke through, and swung south, gaining strength and volume from hundreds of tributaries as it rushed onward to the sea.

For two days we rode along the river bank and crossed at the Shih-ku ferry. There was none of the difficulty here which we had experienced at Taku, for the river is wide and the current slow. It required only two hours to transport our entire caravan while at the other ferry we had waited a day and a half. Strangely enough, although there are dozens of villages along the Yangtze and the valley is highly cultivated, we saw no sign of fishing. Moreover, we passed but three boats and five or six rafts and it was evident that this great waterway, which for fifteen hundred miles from its mouth influences the trade of China so profoundly, is here used but little by the natives.

For two days, we rode along the riverbank and crossed at the Shih-ku ferry. There was none of the difficulty we had faced at Taku since the river is wide and the current is slow. It only took two hours to transport our entire caravan, while at the other ferry, we had waited a day and a half. Strangely, even though there are dozens of villages along the Yangtze and the valley is well cultivated, we saw no signs of fishing. Furthermore, we passed only three boats and five or six rafts, and it was clear that this vast waterway, which influences the trade of China so profoundly for fifteen hundred miles from its mouth, is not heavily used by the locals here.

On the ride down the river we had good sport with the huge cranes (probably Grus nigricollis) which, in small flocks, were feeding along the river fields. The birds stood about five feet high and we could see their great black and white bodies and black necks farther than a man was visible. It was fairly easy to stalk them to within a hundred yards, but even at that distance they offered a rather small target, for they were so largely wings, neck, legs, and tail. We were never within shotgun range and indeed it would be difficult to kill the birds with anything smaller than BB or buckshot unless they were very near.

On our trip down the river, we had a lot of fun watching the big cranes (probably Grus nigricollis) that were feeding in small groups along the riverbanks. The birds were about five feet tall, and we could spot their large black and white bodies and black necks from quite a distance. It was relatively easy to sneak up on them to within a hundred yards, but even then, they were a pretty small target because their wings, necks, legs, and tails took up most of their size. We were never close enough to use a shotgun, and honestly, it would be tough to take down the birds with anything smaller than BB or buckshot unless we got really close.

The Yangtze River Gorge

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Heller shot our first cranes with his .250-.300 Savage rifle. He stole upon five which were feeding in a meadow and fired while two were "lined up." One of the huge birds flapped about on the ground for a few moments and lay still, but the larger was only wing-tipped and started off at full speed across the fields. Two mafus left the caravan, yelling with excitement, and ran for nearly half a mile before they overtook the bird. Then they were kept at bay for fifteen minutes by its long beak which is a really formidable weapon. As food the cranes were perfectly delicious when stuffed with chestnut dressing and roasted. Each one provided two meals for three of us with enough left over for hash and our appetites were by no means birdlike.

Heller took his first cranes down with his .250-.300 Savage rifle. He sneaked up on five that were feeding in a meadow and shot when two were lined up. One of the massive birds flapped around on the ground for a bit and then lay still, but the bigger one was only wing-tipped and took off at full speed across the fields. Two mafus left the caravan, shouting with excitement, and ran for nearly half a mile before they caught up with the bird. Then, they were held off for fifteen minutes by its long beak, which is really a formidable weapon. As food, the cranes were absolutely delicious when stuffed with chestnut dressing and roasted. Each one gave us two meals for the three of us, with plenty left over for hash, and our appetites were definitely not modest.

Although the natives attempt to kill cranes they are not often successful, for the birds are very watchful and will not allow a man within a hundred yards. Such a distance for primitive guns or crossbows might as well be a hundred miles, but with our high-power rifles we were able to shoot as many as were needed for food.

Although the locals try to hunt cranes, they don't often succeed because the birds are very alert and won’t let anyone get within a hundred yards. For primitive guns or crossbows, that distance might as well be a hundred miles, but with our high-powered rifles, we were able to shoot as many as we needed for food.

The birds almost invariably followed the river when flying and fed in the rice, barley, and corn fields not far from the water. It was an inspiring sight to see a flock of the huge birds run for a few steps along the ground and then launch themselves into the air, their black and white wings flashing in the sunlight. They formed into orderly ranks like a company of soldiers or strung out in a long thin line across the sky.

The birds almost always followed the river when they flew and fed in the rice, barley, and cornfields not far from the water. It was an amazing sight to see a flock of these huge birds run for a few steps on the ground and then take off into the air, their black and white wings gleaming in the sunlight. They lined up in neat rows like a group of soldiers or stretched out in a long, thin line across the sky.

When we disturbed a flock from especially desirable feeding grounds they would sometimes whirl and circle above the fields, ascending higher and higher in great - 186 - spirals until they were lost to sight, their musical voices coming faintly down to us like the distant shouts of happy children.

When we startled a flock from really good feeding spots, they would sometimes swirl and circle above the fields, rising higher and higher in big spirals until we could no longer see them, their melodic calls echoing down to us like the distant sounds of joyful kids. 186

When we returned to Ta-li Fu in early January, cranes were very abundant in the fields about the lake. They had arrived in late October and would depart in early spring, according to Mr. Evans. We often saw the birds on sand banks along the Yangtze, but they were usually resting or quietly walking about and were not feeding; apparently they eat only rice, barley, corn, or other grain.

When we got back to Ta-li Fu in early January, there were a lot of cranes in the fields around the lake. They had come in late October and would leave in early spring, according to Mr. Evans. We frequently spotted the birds on sandbanks along the Yangtze, but they were mostly resting or strolling around and weren't feeding; it seems they only eat rice, barley, corn, or other grains.

This species was discovered by the great traveler and naturalist, Lieutenant Colonel Prjevalsky, who found it in the Koko-nor region of Tibet, and it was later recorded by Prince Henri d'Orleans from Ts'ang in the Tibetan highlands. Apparently specimens from Yün-nan have not been preserved in museums and the bird was not known to occur in this portion of China.

This species was discovered by the renowned traveler and naturalist, Lieutenant Colonel Prjevalsky, who found it in the Koko-nor region of Tibet. It was later documented by Prince Henri d'Orleans from Ts'ang in the Tibetan highlands. It seems that specimens from Yün-nan haven't been kept in museums, and the bird was not recognized as existing in this part of China.

Along the Yangtze on our way westward we shot a good many mallard ducks (Anas boscas) and ruddy sheldrakes (Casarca casarca); the latter are universally known as "brahminy ducks" by the foreigners in Burma and Yün-nan, but they are not true ducks. The name is derived from the bird's beautiful buff and rufous color which is somewhat like that of the robes worn by the Brahmin priests. In America the name "sheldrake" is applied erroneously to the fish-eating mergansers, and much confusion has thus arisen, for the two are quite unrelated and belong to perfectly distinct groups. The mergansers have narrow, hooked, saw-toothed beaks quite unlike those of the sheldrakes, and their habits are entirely dissimilar.

Along the Yangtze on our way west, we shot a lot of mallard ducks (Anas boscas) and ruddy sheldrakes (Casarca casarca); the latter are commonly called "brahminy ducks" by foreigners in Burma and Yün-nan, but they aren’t true ducks. The name comes from the bird's lovely buff and rufous color, which is similar to the robes worn by Brahmin priests. In America, the term "sheldrake" is incorrectly used for fish-eating mergansers, leading to a lot of confusion since the two are quite unrelated and belong to completely different groups. Mergansers have narrow, hooked, saw-toothed beaks that are very different from those of sheldrakes, and their behaviors are entirely dissimilar.

The brahminy ducks, although rather tough, are not - 187 - bad eating. We usually found them feeding in fields not far from the river or in flooded rice dykes, and very often sitting in pairs on the sand banks near the water. They have a bisyllabic rather plaintive note which is peculiarly fascinating to me and, like the honk of the Canada goose, awakens memories of sodden, wind-blown marshes, bobbing decoys, and a leaden sky shot through with V-shaped lines of flying birds.

The brahminy ducks, while a bit tough, aren’t bad to eat. We often found them feeding in fields near the river or on flooded rice dikes, and frequently sitting in pairs on the sandy banks by the water. Their soft, two-syllable call is strangely captivating to me and, similar to the honk of a Canada goose, brings back memories of soggy, windy marshes, floating decoys, and a heavy sky filled with V-shaped formations of flying birds. - 187 -

Mallards were frequently to be found with the sheldrakes, and we had good shooting along the river and in ponds and rice fields. We also saw a few teal but they were by no means abundant. Pheasants were scarce. We shot a few along the road and near some of our camps, but we found no place in Yün-nan where one could have even a fair day's shooting without the aid of a good dog. This is strikingly different from Korea where in a walk over the hillsides a dozen or more pheasants can be flushed within an hour.

Mallards were often found with the sheldrakes, and we had decent shooting along the river and in ponds and rice fields. We also spotted a few teal, but they weren’t common. Pheasants were few and far between. We shot a couple along the road and near some of our camps, but we couldn’t find anywhere in Yün-nan where you could have even a decent day of shooting without a good dog. This is a stark contrast to Korea, where you can flush a dozen or more pheasants in an hour just by walking over the hillsides.

After two and one-half days' travel up the Yangtze we turned westward toward Wei-hsi and camped on a beautiful flat plain beside a tree-bordered stream. It was a cold clear night and after dinner and a smoke about the fire we all turned in.

After two and a half days of traveling up the Yangtze, we headed west toward Wei-hsi and set up camp on a lovely flat plain next to a tree-lined stream. It was a cold, clear night, and after dinner and some time by the fire, we all went to bed.

Both of us were asleep when suddenly a perfect bedlam of angry exclamations and Chinese curses roused the whole camp. In a few moments Wu came to our tent, almost speechless with rage and stammered, "Damn fool soldiers come try to take our horses; say if mafu no give them horses they untie loads. Shall I tell mafu break their heads?" We did not entirely understand the situation but it seemed quite proper to give the mafus permission to do the head-breaking, and they - 188 - went at it with a will. After a volley of blows, there was a scamper of feet on the frozen ground and the soldiers retired considerably the worse for wear.

Both of us were asleep when suddenly a chaotic mix of angry shouts and Chinese curses woke up the whole camp. A moment later, Wu came to our tent, nearly speechless with rage, and stammered, "The damn fool soldiers are trying to take our horses; they say if the mafu don’t give them the horses, they’ll untie the loads. Should I tell the mafu to break their heads?" We didn’t completely understand what was happening, but it seemed appropriate to allow the mafus to handle the head-breaking, and they jumped right in. After a flurry of blows, there was a rush of feet on the frozen ground and the soldiers retreated, looking significantly worse for wear. - 188 -

When the battle was over, Wu explained matters more fully. It appeared that a large detachment of soldiers had recently passed up this road to A-tun-tzu and four or five had remained behind to attend to the transport of certain supplies. Seeing an opportunity for "graft" the soldiers were stopping every caravan which passed and threatening to commandeer it unless the mafus gave a sufficient bribe to buy their immunity. Our mafus, with the protection which foreigners gave them, had paid off a few old scores with interest. That they had neglected no part of the reckoning was quite evident when next morning two of the soldiers came to apologize for their "mistake." One of them had a black and swollen eye and the other was nursing a deep cut on his forehead; they were exceedingly humble and did not venture into camp until they had been assured that we would not again loose our terrible mafus upon them.

When the battle ended, Wu provided more details. It turned out that a large group of soldiers had recently traveled up this road to A-tun-tzu, and four or five had stayed behind to manage the transport of some supplies. Seeing a chance for a quick profit, the soldiers stopped every caravan that passed and threatened to seize it unless the mafus paid a hefty bribe for protection. Our mafus, with the backing of foreigners, had settled a few old scores with interest. It was clear they hadn’t missed anything in their calculations when the next morning two soldiers came to apologize for their "mistake." One had a black and swollen eye, while the other was tending to a deep cut on his forehead; they were extremely humble and didn’t dare enter the camp until they were reassured that we wouldn’t unleash our formidable mafus on them again.

Such extortions are every day occurrences in many parts of China and it is little wonder that the military is cordially hated and feared by the peasants. The soldiers, taking advantage of their uniform, oppress the villagers in numberless ways from which there is no redress. If a complaint is made a dozen soldiers stand ready to swear that the offense was justified or was never committed, and the poor farmer is lucky if he escapes without a beating or some more severe punishment. It is a disgrace to China that such conditions are allowed to exist, and it is to be hoped that ere many - 189 - years have passed the country will awake to a proper recognition of the rights of the individual. Until she does there never can be a national spirit of patriotism in China and without patriotism the Republic can be one in name only.

Such extortions happen every day in many parts of China, and it's no surprise that the military is widely hated and feared by the peasants. The soldiers, abusing their uniform, oppress the villagers in countless ways with no way to seek help. If a complaint is made, a dozen soldiers are ready to testify that the offense was justified or never happened, and the poor farmer is lucky to escape without a beating or harsher punishment. It's a disgrace that such conditions are allowed to exist in China, and we can only hope that in a few years, the country will come to properly recognize individual rights. Until that happens, there can never be a genuine national spirit of patriotism in China, and without patriotism, the Republic can only exist in name.

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CHAPTER XXIV

DOWN THE MEKONG VALLEY

Down the Mekong Valley

On December 11, we had tiffin on the summit of a twelve thousand foot pass in a beautiful snow-covered meadow, from which we could see the glistening peaks of the vast mountain range which forms the Mekong-Salween divide. In the afternoon we readied Wei-hsi and camped in a grove of splendid pine trees on a hill overlooking the city. The place was rather disappointing after Li-chiang. The shops were poor and it was difficult to buy rice even though the entire valley was devoted to paddy fields, but we did get quantities of delicious persimmons.

On December 11, we had lunch at the top of a twelve-thousand-foot pass in a beautiful snow-covered meadow, from which we could see the shining peaks of the vast mountain range forming the Mekong-Salween divide. In the afternoon, we prepared Wei-hsi and set up camp in a grove of lovely pine trees on a hill overlooking the city. The place was somewhat disappointing compared to Li-chiang. The shops were sparse, and it was difficult to buy rice even though the entire valley was filled with rice paddies, but we did manage to get a lot of delicious persimmons.

Wu told us that seven different languages were spoken in the city, and we could well believe it, for we recognized Mosos, Lolos, Chinese, and Tibetans. This region is nearly the extreme western limit of the Moso tribe which appears not to extend across the Mekong River.

Wu told us that seven different languages were spoken in the city, and we could totally believe it since we recognized Mosos, Lolos, Chinese, and Tibetans. This area is almost the far western limit of the Moso tribe, which seems not to go across the Mekong River.

The mandarin at Wei-hsi received us hospitably and proved to be one of the most courteous officials whom we met in Yün-nan. We were sorry to learn that he was killed in a horrible way only a few weeks after our visit. Trouble arose with the peasants over the tax on salt and fifteen hundred rebelled, attacked the city, and captured it after a sharp fight. It was reported that they immediately beheaded the mandarin's wives and children, and boiled him alive in oil.

The mandarin in Wei-hsi welcomed us warmly and turned out to be one of the most polite officials we encountered in Yün-nan. We were saddened to hear that he was brutally killed just a few weeks after our visit. Tensions escalated with the peasants over the salt tax, and fifteen hundred of them rebelled, attacking the city and seizing it after a fierce battle. Reports indicated that they quickly beheaded the mandarin's wives and children and boiled him alive in oil.

A Serene Bend of the Mekong River

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Although the magistrate offered to assist us in every way we could obtain no information concerning either hunting grounds or routes of travel. The flying squirrels which we had hoped to find near the city were reported to come from a mountain range beyond the Mekong in Burma, and Wei-hsi was merely a center of distribution for the skins. Moreover, the natives said it would be impossible to obtain squirrels at that time of the year, for the mountain passes were so heavily covered with snow that neither men nor caravans could cross them.

Although the magistrate offered to help us in every way, we couldn't get any information about hunting grounds or travel routes. The flying squirrels we had hoped to find near the city were said to come from a mountain range beyond the Mekong in Burma, and Wei-hsi was just a distribution center for the skins. Additionally, the locals mentioned that it would be impossible to get squirrels at that time of year because the mountain passes were so deeply covered in snow that neither people nor caravans could get through.

It was desirable, however, to descend to the Mekong River in order to determine whether there would be a change in fauna, and on Major Davies' map a small road was marked down the valley. A stiff climb of a day and a half over a thickly forested mountain ridge, frozen and snow-covered, brought us in sight of the green waters of the Mekong which has carved a gorge for itself in an almost straight line from the bleak Tibetan plateaus through Yün-nan and Indo-China to the sea.

It was important, though, to head down to the Mekong River to see if there would be a change in the wildlife, and on Major Davies' map, a small road was marked through the valley. A tough climb of a day and a half over a densely forested mountain ridge, cold and snow-covered, brought us into view of the green waters of the Mekong, which has carved a gorge for itself in nearly a straight line from the harsh Tibetan plateaus through Yün-nan and Indo-China to the sea.

Our second camp was on the river at the mouth of a deep valley, near a small village. Wu said that the natives were Lutzus and I was inclined to believe he was right, although Major Davies indicates this region to be inhabited by Lisos. At any rate these people both in physical appearance and dress were quite distinct from the Lisos whom we met later.

Our second campsite was by the river at the entrance of a deep valley, close to a small village. Wu said the locals were Lutzus, and I was inclined to agree with him, even though Major Davies suggests that this area is inhabited by Lisos. In any case, these people, in terms of their physical appearance and clothing, were quite different from the Lisos we met later.

They were exceedingly pleasant and friendly and the chief, accompanied by four venerable men, brought a present of rice. I gave him two tins of cigarettes and the natives returned to the village wreathed in smiles.

They were really nice and friendly, and the chief, along with four old men, brought a gift of rice. I gave him two cans of cigarettes, and the villagers went back to their village smiling brightly.

The garments of the Lutzus were characteristic and quite unlike those of the Mosos, Lisos or Tibetans. The - 192 - women wore a long coat or jacket of blue cloth, trousers, and a very full pleated skirt. The men were dressed in plum colored coats and trousers.

The clothing of the Lutzus was distinctive and very different from that of the Mosos, Lisos, or Tibetans. The - 192 - women wore long blue coats or jackets, trousers, and a wide pleated skirt. The men were in plum-colored coats and trousers.

The natives said that monkeys (probably Pygathrix) were often seen when the corn was ripe and that even yet they might be found in the forest across the river. Heller spent a day hunting them, but found none and we obtained only one new mammal in our traps. It was a tiny mouse (Micromys) but the remainder of the fauna was essentially the same as that of the Yangtze valley and the intervening country.

The locals mentioned that monkeys (likely Pygathrix) were often spotted when the corn was ready to harvest and that they could still be found in the forest across the river. Heller dedicated a day to hunting them but didn’t find any, and we only caught one new mammal in our traps. It was a small mouse (Micromys), but the rest of the wildlife was pretty much the same as that of the Yangtze valley and the areas in between.

For three days we traveled down the Mekong River. Although the natives said that the trail was good, we discovered when it was too late that it was too narrow and difficult to make it practicable for a caravan such as ours. It was necessary to continually remove the loads in order to lift them around sharp corners or over rocks, and the mafus sometimes had to cut away great sections of the bank. Usually only six or seven miles could be traversed after eight or nine hours of exhausting work, and we were glad when we could leave the river.

For three days, we traveled down the Mekong River. Even though the locals said the path was good, we found out too late that it was too narrow and tough for a caravan like ours. We constantly had to take off the loads to maneuver them around sharp turns or over rocks, and the mafus sometimes had to cut away large sections of the bank. Typically, we could only cover six or seven miles after eight or nine hours of exhausting work, and we were relieved when we could finally leave the river.

The Mekong, on an average, is not more than a hundred yards wide in this region and, like the Yangtze, the water is very green from the Tibetan snows. The prevailing rock is red slate or sandstone instead of limestone, as in the country to the eastward, and the sides of the valley are so precipitous that it seems impossible for a human being to walk over them, and yet they are patched with brown corn fields from the summit to the water. Considering the small area available for cultivation there are a considerable number of inhabitants, who have gathered into villages and seldom live in isolated houses as in the Yangtze valley. Wherever a stream comes - 193 - down from the mountain-side or can be diverted by irrigating ditches, the ground is beautifully terraced for rice paddys, but in other places, corn and peas appear to be the principal crops. Very few vegetables, such as turnips, squash, carrots or potatoes are raised, which is rather remarkable, as they are so abundant in all the country between the Mekong and the Yangtze rivers. In several places the water was spanned by rope bridges. The cables are made of twisted bamboo, and as one end must necessarily be higher than the other, there are always two ropes, one to cross each way. The traveler is tied by leather thongs in a sitting position to a wooden "runner" which slides along the bamboo cable and shoots across the river at tremendous speed.

The Mekong is typically no more than a hundred yards wide in this area, and like the Yangtze, the water has a green tint from the Tibetan snows. The main types of rock here are red slate or sandstone, not limestone like in the eastern region. The valley's sides are so steep that it seems impossible for anyone to walk over them, yet they are dotted with brown cornfields from the top down to the water. Given the limited land for farming, there are quite a few people who have formed villages rather than living in isolated homes as seen in the Yangtze valley. Wherever a stream flows down from the mountains or can be redirected through irrigation ditches, the land is beautifully terraced for rice paddies, while in other areas, corn and peas seem to be the main crops. Very few vegetables like turnips, squash, carrots, or potatoes are grown, which is quite surprising since they are so plentiful in the region between the Mekong and Yangtze rivers. In several spots, the water is crossed by rope bridges. The cables are made from twisted bamboo, and since one end needs to be higher than the other, there are always two ropes, one for each direction. The traveler is secured by leather straps in a sitting position to a wooden "runner" that slides along the bamboo cable and zips across the river at incredible speed.

The valley is hopeless from a zoölogical standpoint. It is too dry for small mammals and the mountain slopes are so precipitous, thinly forested, and generally undesirable, that, except for gorals, no other large game would live there. The bird life is decidedly uninteresting. There are no cranes or sheldrakes and, except for a few flocks of mallards which feed in the rice fields, we saw no other ducks or geese.

The valley is a lost cause from a zoological perspective. It's too dry for small mammals, and the mountain slopes are so steep, sparsely wooded, and generally uninviting that, aside from gorals, no other large game would survive there. The bird life is pretty dull. There are no cranes or sheldrakes, and apart from a few flocks of mallards that feed in the rice fields, we didn't see any other ducks or geese.

On December 20, we turned away from the Mekong valley and began to march southeast by east across an unmapped region toward Ta-li Fu. We camped at night on a pretty ridge thickly covered with spruce trees just above a deep moist ravine. In the morning our traps contained several rare shrews, five silver moles, a number of interesting mice, and a beautiful rufous spiny rat. It was too good a place to leave and I sent Hotenfa to inquire from a family of natives if there was big game of any sort in the vicinity. He reported that there were goral not far away, and at half past eight - 194 - we rode down the trail for three miles when I left my horse at a peasant's house. They told us that the goral were on a rocky, thinly forested mountain which rose two thousand feet above the valley, and for an hour and a half we climbed steadily upward.

On December 20, we turned away from the Mekong valley and started heading southeast by east across an unmapped area toward Ta-li Fu. We set up camp at night on a beautiful ridge covered with spruce trees, just above a deep, moist ravine. In the morning, our traps held several rare shrews, five silver moles, a number of interesting mice, and a stunning rufous spiny rat. It was too good a place to leave, so I sent Hotenfa to ask a local family if there was any big game nearby. He reported that there were goral not far off, and at 8:30, we rode down the trail for three miles before I left my horse at a peasant's house. They informed us that the goral were on a rocky, sparsely forested mountain that rose two thousand feet above the valley, and for an hour and a half, we climbed steadily upward.

We were resting near the summit on the rim of a deep cañon when Hotenfa excitedly whispered, "gnai-yang" and held up three fingers. He tried to show the animals to me and at last I caught sight of what I thought was a goral standing on a narrow ledge. I fired and a bit of rock flew into the air while the three gorals disappeared among the trees two hundred feet above the spot where I had supposed them to be.

We were taking a break near the top, on the edge of a deep canyon, when Hotenfa whispered excitedly, "gnai-yang" and held up three fingers. He was trying to point out the animals to me, and finally, I spotted what I thought was a goral standing on a narrow ledge. I shot, and a chunk of rock went flying into the air while the three gorals vanished among the trees two hundred feet above where I thought they were.

I was utterly disgusted at my mistake but we started on a run for the other side of the gorge. When we arrived, Hotenfa motioned me to swing about to the right while he climbed along the face of the rock wall. No sooner had he reached the edge of the precipice than I saw him lean far out, fire with my three-barrel gun, and frantically wave for me to come. I ran to him and, throwing my arms about a projecting shrub, looked down. There directly under us stood a huge goral, but just as I was about to shoot, the earth gave way beneath my feet and I would have fallen squarely on the animal had Hotenfa not seized me by the collar and drawn me back to safety.

I was completely appalled by my mistake, but we took off running to the other side of the gorge. When we got there, Hotenfa signaled for me to move to the right while he scrambled up the rock face. As soon as he got to the edge, I saw him lean way out, fire my three-barrel gun, and wave frantically for me to come over. I dashed to him and, grabbing onto a nearby shrub, looked down. Right below us was a massive goral, but just as I was about to take the shot, the ground crumbled beneath me, and I would have fallen directly onto the animal if Hotenfa hadn't grabbed my collar and pulled me back to safety.

The goral had not discovered where the shower of dirt and stones came from before I fired hurriedly, breaking his fore leg at the knee. Without the slightest sign of injury the ram disappeared behind a corner of the rock. I dashed to the top of the ridge in time to see him running at full speed across a narrow open ledge toward a thick mass of cover on the opposite side of the cañon. I - 195 - fired just as the animal gained the trees and, at the crash of my rifle, the goral plunged headlong down the mountain, stone dead.

The goral hadn’t figured out where the shower of dirt and stones was coming from before I quickly fired, breaking its front leg at the knee. Without showing any signs of injury, the ram disappeared around a corner of the rock. I rushed to the top of the ridge just in time to see him sprinting at full speed across a narrow open ledge toward a thick patch of cover on the other side of the canyon. I fired just as the animal reached the trees, and with the crash of my rifle, the goral fell headfirst down the mountain, stone dead. - 195 -

It fell on a narrow slide of loose rock which led nearly to the bottom of the valley and, slipping and rolling in a cloud of red dust, dropped over a precipice. The ram brought up against an unstable boulder five hundred feet below us, and it required half an hour's hard work to reach the spot.

It slid down a narrow path of loose rocks that almost reached the bottom of the valley, slipping and tumbling in a cloud of red dust, and then dropped over the edge. The ram collided with an unstable boulder five hundred feet below us, and it took half an hour of hard work to get to that spot.

When I finally lifted its head one of the horns which had been broken in the fall slipped through my fingers, and away went the goral on another rough and tumble descent, finally stopping on a rock ledge nearly eleven hundred feet from the place where it had been shot. We returned to camp at noon bringing joy with us, for, as my wife had remarked the day before, "We will soon have to eat chickens or cans."

When I finally lifted its head, one of the broken horns slipped through my fingers, and the goral took off again on another wild descent, eventually stopping on a rocky ledge nearly eleven hundred feet from where it had been shot. We returned to camp at noon, bringing joy with us, because as my wife pointed out the day before, "We’re going to have to eat chickens or canned food soon."

Heller hunted the gorals unsuccessfully the following day and we left on December 23, camping at night on a flat terrace beside a stream at the end of a moist ravine. We intended to spend Christmas here for it was a beautiful spot, surrounded by virgin forest, but our celebration was to be on Christmas Eve. The following day dawned bright and clear. There had not been a drop of rain for nearly a month and the weather was just warm enough for comfort in the sun with one's coat off, but at night the temperature dropped to about 16°+ or 20°+ Fahr. The camp proved to be a good one, giving us two new mammals and, just after tiffin, Hotenfa came running in to report that he had discovered seven gray monkeys (probably Pygathrix) in a cornfield a mile away.

Heller hunted for gorals without success the next day, and we left on December 23, camping at night on a flat terrace beside a stream at the end of a damp ravine. We planned to spend Christmas here, as it was a beautiful spot surrounded by untouched forest, but our celebration was set for Christmas Eve. The next day started bright and clear. There hadn’t been a drop of rain in nearly a month, and the weather was warm enough for us to be comfortable in the sun without our coats, though at night the temperature dropped to around 16°+ or 20°+ Fahrenheit. The camp turned out to be great, giving us two new mammals, and just after lunch, Hotenfa came running in to say he had found seven gray monkeys (probably Pygathrix) in a cornfield a mile away.

The monkeys had disappeared ere we arrived, but while we were gone Yvette had been busy and, just - 196 - before dinner, she ushered us into our tent with great ceremony. It had been most wonderfully transformed. At the far end stood a Christmas tree, blazing with tiny candles and surrounded by masses of white cotton, through which shone red holly berries. Holly branches from the forest and spruce boughs lined the tent and hung in green waves from the ridge pole. At the base of the tree gifts which she had purchased in Hongkong in the preceding August were laid out.

The monkeys had disappeared by the time we arrived, but while we were away, Yvette had been busy and just before dinner, she welcomed us into our tent with great flair. It had been wonderfully transformed. At the far end stood a Christmas tree, glowing with tiny candles and surrounded by heaps of white cotton, with red holly berries shining through. Holly branches from the forest and spruce boughs lined the tent and hung in green waves from the ridge pole. At the base of the tree were the gifts she had bought in Hong Kong the previous August.

Heller mixed a fearful and wonderful cocktail from the Chinese wine and orange juice, and we drank to each other and to those at home while sitting on the ground and opening our packages. We had purchased two Tibetan rugs in Li-chiang and Wei-hsi, as Christmas presents for Yvette. These rugs usually are blue or red, with intricate designs in the center, and are well woven and attractive.

Heller made a scary yet amazing cocktail using Chinese wine and orange juice, and we toasted to each other and to our loved ones back home while sitting on the ground and opening our packages. We had bought two Tibetan rugs in Li-chiang and Wei-hsi as Christmas gifts for Yvette. These rugs are usually blue or red, featuring detailed designs in the center, and they’re well-made and beautiful.

To the servants and mafus we gave money and cigarettes. When the muleteers were brought to the tent to receive their gifts they evidently thought our blazing tree represented an altar, for they kneeled down and began to make the "chin, chin joss" which is always done before their heathen gods.

To the servants and mafus, we gave cash and cigarettes. When the muleteers were brought to the tent to get their gifts, they clearly thought our blazing tree was an altar, so they knelt down and started making the "chin, chin joss," which is always done before their pagan gods.

Our Christmas dinner was a masterpiece. Four days previously I had shot a pair of mallard ducks and they formed the pièce de résistance. The dinner consisted of soup, ducks stuffed with chestnuts, currant jelly, baked squash, creamed carrots, chocolate cake, cheese and crackers, coffee and cigarettes.

Our Christmas dinner was amazing. Four days earlier, I had shot a pair of mallard ducks, which were the highlight of the meal. The dinner included soup, ducks stuffed with chestnuts, currant jelly, baked squash, creamed carrots, chocolate cake, cheese and crackers, coffee, and cigarettes.

Christmas day we traveled, and in the late afternoon passed through a very dirty Chinese town in a deep valley near some extensive salt wells. Red clay dust lay thick over everything and the filth of the streets and - 197 - houses was indescribable. We camped in a cornfield a mile beyond the village, but were greatly annoyed by the Chinese who insisted on swarming into camp. Finally, unable longer to endure their insolent stares, I drove them with stones to the top of the hill, where they sat in row upon row exactly as in the "bleachers" at an American baseball game.

On Christmas day, we traveled, and in the late afternoon, we passed through a really dirty Chinese town in a deep valley near some large salt wells. Red clay dust covered everything, and the mess in the streets and houses was unimaginable. We set up camp in a cornfield about a mile past the village, but were really irritated by the Chinese people who kept coming into our camp. Finally, unable to put up with their rude stares any longer, I chased them up to the top of the hill with stones, where they sat in rows just like in the "bleachers" at an American baseball game. 197

When we left the following day we passed dozens of caravans and groups of men and women carrying great disks of salt. Each piece was stamped in red with the official mark for salt is a government monopoly and only licensed merchants are allowed to deal in it; moreover, the importation of salt from foreign countries is forbidden. For the purposes of administration, China is divided into seven or eight main circuits, each of which has its own sources of production and the salt obtained in one district may not be sold in another.

When we left the next day, we saw dozens of caravans and groups of men and women carrying large disks of salt. Each piece was stamped in red with the official mark since salt is a government monopoly and only licensed merchants can sell it; additionally, importing salt from other countries is not allowed. For administrative purposes, China is divided into seven or eight main regions, each of which has its own sources of production, and the salt obtained in one area can’t be sold in another.

In Yün-nan the salt of the province is supplied from three regions. The water from the wells is boiled in great cauldrons for several days, and the resulting deposit is earth impregnated with salt. This is crushed, mixed with water, and boiled again until only pure salt remains. After passing a village of considerable size called Peiping, we began the ascent of an exceedingly steep mountain range twelve thousand feet high. All the afternoon we toiled upward in the rain and camped late in the evening at a pine grove on a little plateau two-thirds of the way to the summit. During the night it snowed heavily and we awoke to find ourselves in a transformed world.

In Yün-nan, the province gets its salt from three different areas. Water from the wells is boiled in large cauldrons for several days, and the leftover material is soil mixed with salt. This is then crushed, combined with water, and boiled again until only pure salt is left. After passing through a sizable village called Peiping, we started climbing a very steep mountain range that rises twelve thousand feet. We spent the afternoon struggling upward in the rain and set up camp late in the evening in a pine grove on a small plateau two-thirds of the way to the top. During the night, it snowed heavily, and we woke up to find ourselves in a changed world.

Every tree and bush was dressed in garments of purest white and between the branches we could look westward across the valley toward the Mekong and the purple mountain wall of the Burma border. There were - 198 - still one thousand feet of climbing between us and the summit of the pass. The trail was almost blocked, but by slow work we forced our way through the drifts. Some of the mules were already weak from exposure and underfeeding, and two of them had to be relieved of their loads; they died the next day. Our mafus did not appear to suffer greatly although their legs were bare from the knees down and their feet had no covering except straw sandals. Indeed when we discovered, on the summit of the pass, a tiny hut in which a fire was burning, they waited only a few moments to warm themselves.

Every tree and bush was adorned in the whitest snow, and through the branches, we could see westward across the valley toward the Mekong and the purple mountains marking the Burma border. There were - 198 - still a thousand feet of climbing left between us and the top of the pass. The trail was nearly blocked, but with some effort, we pushed our way through the drifts. Some of the mules were already weak from the cold and not enough food, and two of them had to be unloaded; they died the next day. Our mafus didn’t seem to suffer much, even though their legs were bare from the knees down and their feet were only covered with straw sandals. In fact, when we found a small hut on the summit of the pass with a fire going, they only waited a moment to warm up.

We met two other caravans fighting their way up the mountain from the other side, and by following the trail which they had broken through the drifts we made fairly good time on the descent. There had been no snow on the broad, flat plain which we reached in the late afternoon and we found that its ponds and fields were alive with ducks, geese, and cranes. The birds were wild but we had good shooting when we broke camp in the morning and killed enough to last us several days.

We encountered two other caravans struggling to make their way up the mountain from the opposite side, and by sticking to the path they had made through the snow, we descended pretty quickly. There hadn’t been any snow on the wide, flat plain we arrived at in the late afternoon, and we discovered that its ponds and fields were bustling with ducks, geese, and cranes. The birds were skittish, but we managed to get some good shots when we packed up in the morning and collected enough to last us several days.

On December 31, our weary days of crossing range after range of tremendous mountains were ended, and we stood on the last pass looking down upon the great Chien-chuan plain. Outside the grim walls of the old city, which lies on the main A-tun-tzu-Ta-li Fu road, are two large marshy ponds and, away to the south, is an extensive lake. We camped just without the courtyard of a fine temple, and at four o'clock Yvette and I went over to the water which was swarming with ducks and geese.

On December 31, our exhausting journey through range after range of enormous mountains finally came to an end, and we stood on the last pass overlooking the vast Chien-chuan plain. Just outside the imposing walls of the old city, which is located on the main A-tun-tzu-Ta-li Fu road, are two large marshy ponds, and further to the south, there's a large lake. We set up camp just outside the courtyard of a beautiful temple, and at four o'clock, Yvette and I walked over to the water, which was teeming with ducks and geese.

Neither of us will ever forget that shoot in the glorious afternoon sunlight. Cloud after cloud of ducks rose as we neared the pond and circled high above our heads, but - 199 - now and then a straggling mallard or "pin tail" would swing across the sky within range; as my gun roared out the birds would whirl to the ground like feathered bombs or climb higher with frightened quacks if the shot went wild. An hour before dark the brahminy ducks began to come in. We could hear their melodious plaintive calls long before we could see the birds, and we flattened ourselves out in the grass and mud. Soon a thin, black line would streak the sky, and as they drew nearer, Yvette would draw such seductive notes from a tiny horn of wood and bone that the flock would swing and dive toward us in a rush of flashing wings. When we could see the brown bodies right above our heads I would sit up and bang away.

Neither of us will ever forget that shoot in the amazing afternoon sunlight. Cloud after cloud of ducks rose as we got closer to the pond and circled high above us, but now and then a stray mallard or "pin tail" would glide across the sky within range; as my gun fired, the birds would drop to the ground like feathered bombs or fly higher with startled quacks if I missed. An hour before dark, the brahminy ducks started to arrive. We could hear their beautiful, mournful calls long before we saw the birds, and we flattened ourselves in the grass and mud. Soon, a thin, black line would streak across the sky, and as they got closer, Yvette would pull such alluring notes from a small horn made of wood and bone that the flock would swing and dive toward us in a flurry of flashing wings. When we could see the brown bodies right above our heads, I would sit up and start shooting.

Now and then a big white goose would drop into the pond or an ibis flap lazily overhead, seeming to realize that it had nothing to fear from the prostrate bodies which spat fire at other birds. The stillness of the marsh was absolute save for the voices of the water fowl mingled in the wild, sweet clamor so dear to the heart of every sportsman. As the day began to die, hung about with ducks and geese, we walked slowly back across the rice fields, to the yellow fires before our tents. It was our last camp for the year and, as if to bid us farewell as we journeyed toward the tropics, the peaks of the great Snow Mountain far to the north, had draped themselves in a gorgeous silver mantle and glistened against a sky of lavender and gold like white cathedral spires.

Now and then, a big white goose would land in the pond, or an ibis would flap lazily overhead, seeming to realize it had nothing to fear from the motionless bodies that shot at other birds. The stillness of the marsh was complete except for the sounds of the waterfowl mixing in the wild, sweet noise that every sportsman loves. As the day began to fade, surrounded by ducks and geese, we walked slowly back across the rice fields to the yellow fires in front of our tents. It was our last camp for the year, and as if to say goodbye as we headed toward the tropics, the peaks of the great Snow Mountain far to the north had wrapped themselves in a stunning silver cloak and shimmered against a lavender and gold sky like white cathedral spires.

On January 3, we camped early in the afternoon on a beautiful little plain beside a spring overhung with giant trees at the head of Erh Hai, or Ta-li Fu Lake, which is thirty miles long. The fields and marshes were alive with ducks, geese, cranes, and lapwings, and we had a - 200 - glorious day of sport over decoys and on the water before we went on to Ta-li Fu.

On January 3, we set up camp early in the afternoon on a lovely little plain next to a spring shaded by giant trees at the edge of Erh Hai, or Ta-li Fu Lake, which stretches thirty miles long. The fields and marshes were bustling with ducks, geese, cranes, and lapwings, and we enjoyed an amazing day of hunting over decoys and on the water before heading to Ta-li Fu. 200

Mr. Evans was about to leave for a long business trip to the south of the province and we took possession of a pretty temple just within the north gate of the city. Here we read a great accumulation of mail and learned that a thousand pounds of supplies which we had ordered from Hongkong had just arrived.

Mr. Evans was getting ready to head out on a long business trip to the southern part of the province, and we settled into a charming temple just inside the north gate of the city. Here, we went through a large amount of mail and found out that a thousand pounds of supplies we had ordered from Hong Kong had just arrived.

Through the good offices of Mr. Howard Page, manager of the Standard Oil Company of Yün-nan Fu, their passage through Tonking had been facilitated, and he had dispatched the boxes by caravan to Ta-li Fu. Mr. Page rendered great assistance to the Expedition in numberless ways, and to him we owe our personal thanks as well as those of the American Museum of Natural History.

Through the help of Mr. Howard Page, manager of the Standard Oil Company in Yün-nan Fu, their journey through Tonking was made easier, and he sent the boxes by caravan to Ta-li Fu. Mr. Page provided significant support to the Expedition in many ways, and we owe him our personal thanks as well as those of the American Museum of Natural History.

All the servants except our faithful Wu left at Ta-li Fu but, with the aid of Mr. Hanna, we obtained a much better personnel for the trip to the Burma frontier. The cook, who was one of Mr. Hanna's converts, was an especially fine fellow and proved to be as energetic and competent as the other had been lazy and helpless.

All the servants except our loyal Wu left at Ta-li Fu, but with Mr. Hanna's help, we found a much better team for the trip to the Burma border. The cook, who was one of Mr. Hanna's converts, turned out to be a great guy and was as energetic and capable as the previous one had been lazy and useless.

Our work in the north had brought us a collection of thirteen hundred mammals, as well as several hundred birds, much material for habitat groups, and a splendid series of photographic records in Paget color plates, black and white negatives, and motion picture film. But what was of first importance, we had covered an enormous extent of diverse country and learned much about the distribution of the fauna of northern Yün-nan. The thirteen hundred mammals of our collection were taken in a more or less continuous line across six tremendous mountain ranges, and furnish an illuminating cross section of the entire region from Ta-li Fu, north to Chung-tien, and west to the Mekong River.

Our work in the north resulted in a collection of thirteen hundred mammals, along with several hundred birds, a lot of material for habitat groups, and a great series of photographic records using Paget color plates, black and white negatives, and motion picture film. But what was most important was that we covered a vast variety of landscapes and gained valuable insights into the distribution of wildlife in northern Yün-nan. The thirteen hundred mammals in our collection were gathered in a relatively continuous line across six massive mountain ranges, providing an enlightening cross-section of the whole region from Ta-li Fu, north to Chung-tien, and west to the Mekong River.

The Temple Where We Camped at Ta-li Fu

A Muntjac Deer

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It is apparent that in this part of the province, which is all within one "life zone" even the smallest mammals are widely spread and that the principal factor in determining distribution is the flora. Neither the highest mountain ridges nor such deep swift rivers as the Yangtze and the Mekong appear to act as effective barriers to migration, and as long as the vegetation remains constant, the fauna changes but little.

It’s clear that in this area of the province, which is all part of one "life zone," even the smallest mammals are widely distributed, and the main factor influencing their distribution is the plant life. Neither the tallest mountain ranges nor the deep, fast rivers like the Yangtze and the Mekong seem to serve as significant barriers to migration, and as long as the vegetation stays consistent, the animal life changes very little.

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CHAPTER XXV

MISSIONARIES WE HAVE KNOWN

MISSIONARIES WE'VE KNOWN

During our work in Fukien Province and in various parts of Yün-nan we came into intimate personal contact with a great many missionaries; indeed every traveler in the interior of China will meet them unless he purposely avoids doing so. But the average tourist seldom sees the missionary in his native habitat because, for the most part, he lives and works where the tourist does not go.

During our time in Fukien Province and in different areas of Yün-nan, we had close personal interactions with many missionaries; in fact, any traveler in the interior of China will encounter them unless they actively choose to avoid it. However, the typical tourist rarely sees the missionary in their natural environment because, for the most part, they live and work in places that tourists do not visit.

Nevertheless, that does not prevent the coastwise traveler from carrying back with him from the East a very definite impression of the missionary, which he has gained on board ships or in Oriental clubs where he hears him "damned with faint praise." Almost unconsciously he adopts the popular attitude just as he enlarges his vocabulary to include "pidgin English" and such unfamiliar phrases as "tiffin," "bund" and "cumshaw."

Nevertheless, that doesn’t stop the coastwise traveler from taking back a clear impression of the missionary that he’s picked up on board ships or in Eastern clubs where he hears the missionary being “damned with faint praise.” Almost without realizing it, he adopts the popular opinion just as he expands his vocabulary to include “pidgin English” and other unfamiliar terms like “tiffin,” “bund,” and “cumshaw.”

This chapter is not a brief for the missionary, but simply a matter of fair play. We feel that in justice we ought to present our observations upon this subject, which is one of very general interest, as impartially as upon any phase of our scientific work. But it should be distinctly understood that we are writing only of those persons whom we met and lived with, and whose work we had an opportunity to know and to see; we are not attempting generalizations on the accomplishments of missionaries in any other part of China.

This chapter isn't a defense for missionaries; it's just about fairness. We believe that to be fair, we should share our observations on this important topic as objectively as we would for any aspect of our scientific work. However, it should be clear that we're writing only about the people we met and lived with, and whose work we had the opportunity to learn about and observe; we're not trying to make generalizations about the achievements of missionaries in any other part of China.

There are three charges which we have heard most - 203 - frequently brought against the missionary: that he comes to the East because he can live better and more luxuriously than he can at home; that he often engages in lucrative trade with the natives; and that he accomplishes little good, either religious or otherwise. It is said that his converts are only "rice Christians," and treaty-port foreigners have often warned us in this manner, "Don't take Christian servants; they are more dishonest and unreliable than any others."

There are three main criticisms we've often heard about missionaries: that they come to the East because they can live more comfortably and lavishly than at home; that they frequently get involved in profitable trade with the locals; and that they achieve minimal good, religiously or otherwise. People say that their converts are merely "rice Christians," and treaty-port foreigners have often cautioned us, "Don't hire Christian servants; they are more dishonest and untrustworthy than anyone else."

It is often true that the finest house in a Chinese town will be that of the resident missionary. In Yen-ping the mission buildings are imposing structures, and are placed upon a hill above and away from the rest of the city. Any white person who has traveled in the interior of China will remember the airless, lightless, native houses, opening, as they all do, on filthy streets and reeking sewers and he will understand that in order to exist at all a foreigner must be somewhat isolated and live in a clean, well-ventilated house.

It’s often the case that the best house in a Chinese town belongs to the resident missionary. In Yen-ping, the mission buildings are impressive structures situated on a hill above and away from the rest of the city. Anyone who has traveled through the interior of China will remember the stuffy, dark native houses that all open onto dirty streets and stinky sewers, and they will understand that to survive at all, a foreigner has to be somewhat isolated and live in a clean, well-ventilated home.

Every missionary in China employs servants—many more servants than he could afford at home. So does every other foreigner, whatever his vocation. There is no such thing in China as the democracy of the West, and the missionary's status in the community demands that certain work in his house be done by servants; otherwise he and his family would be placed on a level with the coolie class and the value of his words and deeds be discounted. But the chief reason is that the missionary's wife almost always has definite duties to which she could not attend if she were not relieved from some of the household cares. She leads in work among the women of the community by organizing clubs and "Mutual Improvement Societies" and in teaching in the - 204 - schools or hospitals where young men and women are learning English as an asset to medical work among their own people. Servants are unbelievably cheap. While we were in Foochow a cook received $8.50 (gold) per month, a laundryman $1.75 (gold) per month, and other wages were in proportion.

Every missionary in China hires servants—many more servants than they could afford back home. So does every other foreigner, no matter their job. There’s no equivalent to Western democracy in China, and a missionary's position in the community requires that certain household tasks be done by servants; otherwise, they and their family would be seen as equal to the labor class, and the importance of their words and actions would be diminished. But the main reason is that the missionary's wife typically has specific responsibilities that she couldn't manage without some help with household chores. She takes the lead in working with the women in the community by organizing clubs and "Mutual Improvement Societies" and in teaching in the schools or hospitals where young men and women are learning English to enhance their medical work for their own people. Servants are incredibly cheap. While we were in Foochow, a cook earned $8.50 (gold) per month, a laundryman $1.75 (gold) per month, and other wages were similar.

In Fukien Province the missionaries receive two months' vacation. Anyone who has lived through a Fukien summer in the interior of the province will know why the missionaries are given this vacation. If they were not able to leave the deadly heat and filth and disease of the native cities for a few weeks every year, there would be no missionaries to carry on the work. The business man can surround himself with innumerable comforts both in his home and in his office which the missionary cannot afford and, during the summer, life is not only made possible thereby but even pleasant.

In Fukien Province, the missionaries get two months off for vacation. Anyone who's experienced a summer in the interior of Fukien will understand why they need this break. If they couldn't escape the extreme heat, dirt, and disease of the local cities for a few weeks each year, there wouldn't be any missionaries left to continue their work. A businessman can enjoy countless comforts at home and in the office that the missionary can't access, and during the summer, these comforts not only make life bearable but even enjoyable.

Yen-ping is eight days' travel from Foochow up the Min River and it is by no means the most remote station in the province. Very few travelers reach these places during the year and the white inhabitants are almost isolated. Miss Mabel Hartford lives alone at Yuchi and at one time she saw only one foreigner in eight months. Miss Cordelia Morgan is the sole foreign resident of Chu-hsuing Fu, a large Chinese city six days from Yün-nan Fu. In Ta-li Fu, Reverend William J. Hanna, his wife and two other women, are fourteen days' ride from the nearest foreign settlement. In Li-chiang, Reverend and Mrs. A. Kok and their three small children live with two women missionaries. They are twenty-one days' travel from a doctor, and for four years previous to our visit they had not seen a white woman.

Yen-ping is an eight-day journey from Foochow along the Min River, and it’s definitely not the most remote location in the province. Very few travelers make it to these areas throughout the year, and the white residents feel almost cut off from the outside world. Miss Mabel Hartford lives by herself in Yuchi, where at one point she went eight months without seeing another foreigner. Miss Cordelia Morgan is the only foreign resident of Chu-hsuing Fu, a large Chinese city six days away from Yün-nan Fu. In Ta-li Fu, Reverend William J. Hanna, his wife, and two other women are a fourteen-day ride from the nearest foreign settlement. In Li-chiang, Reverend and Mrs. A. Kok live with their three small children and two women missionaries. They are twenty-one days from a doctor, and for the four years leading up to our visit, they hadn’t seen a white woman.

These are some instances of missionaries whom we met - 205 - in China who have voluntarily exiled themselves to remote places where they expect to spend their entire lives surrounded by an indifferent if not hostile population. Can anyone possibly believe that they have chosen this life because it is easier or more luxurious than that at home?

These are some examples of missionaries we met - 205 - in China who have willingly moved to remote areas where they plan to spend their entire lives among a population that is indifferent, if not hostile. Can anyone really think that they chose this life because it is easier or more comfortable than the one back home?

Some of the men whom we met had left lucrative business positions to take up medical or evangelistic work in China where their compensation is pitifully small—not one-third of the salary they were commanding at home. We did not meet any missionaries who were engaging in trade with the natives even though in some places there were excellent business opportunities.

Some of the men we met had given up well-paying jobs to do medical or missionary work in China, where their pay is sadly very low—not even one-third of what they were earning back home. We didn't come across any missionaries who were involved in trade with the locals, even though there were great business opportunities in some areas.

Consider the doctors as examples of the civilizing influences which missionaries bring with them. We saw them in various parts of China doing a magnificent wort Dr. Bradley has established a great leper hospital at Paik-hoi where these human outcasts are receiving the latest and most scientific treatment and beginning to look at life with a new hope. In Yen-ping, at the time of the rebellion, we saw Dr. Trimble working hour after hour over wounded and broken men without a thought of rest. In Yün-nan Fu, Dr. Thompson's hospital was filled with patients suffering from almost every known disease. In Ta-li Fu we saw Mr. Hanna and his wife dispensing medicines and treating the minor ills of patients waiting by the dozen, the fees received being not enough to pay for the cost of the medicines. Why is it that every traveling foreigner in the interior of China is supposed to be able to cure diseases? Certainly an important reason is because of the work done by the medical missionaries who have penetrated to the farthest corners of the most remote provinces.

Consider the doctors as examples of the civilizing influences that missionaries bring with them. We saw them in different parts of China doing amazing work. Dr. Bradley has set up a major leper hospital in Paik-hoi where these marginalized individuals are receiving the latest and most advanced treatment and starting to see life with renewed hope. In Yen-ping, during the rebellion, we saw Dr. Trimble tirelessly attending to wounded and injured men without a moment's rest. In Yün-nan Fu, Dr. Thompson's hospital was packed with patients suffering from nearly every known illness. In Ta-li Fu, we observed Mr. Hanna and his wife handing out medications and treating the minor ailments of the dozens of patients waiting in line, with the fees collected barely covering the cost of the medicines. Why does every traveling foreigner in the interior of China seem to be expected to cure diseases? A key reason is undoubtedly the work done by medical missionaries who have reached even the most remote corners of these provinces.

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Aside from their medical work, missionaries are in many instances the real pioneers of western civilization. They bring to the people new standards of living, both morally and physically. They open schools and emancipate the Chinese children in mind and body. They fight the barbarous customs of foot binding and the killing and selling of girl babies. Until recent years it was not unusual to meet the village "baby peddler" with from two to six tiny infants peddling his "goods" from village to village. Not many years ago such a man appeared before the mission compound at Ngu-cheng (Fukien) with four babies in his basket. Three of these had expired from exposure and the kerosene oil which had been poured down their throats to stupefy them and drown their cries. The fourth was purchased by the wife of the native preacher for ten cents in order to save its life. This child was reared and has since graduated from the mission schools with credit. In Foochow a stone tablet bearing the following inscription stands beside a stagnant pool: "Hereafter the throwing of babies into this pool will be punished by law." This was a result of the work of the missionaries.

Aside from their medical work, missionaries often serve as the true pioneers of Western civilization. They introduce new standards of living to people, both morally and physically. They establish schools and liberate Chinese children mentally and physically. They challenge brutal customs like foot binding and the killing and selling of baby girls. Until recently, it was not unusual to encounter the village "baby trader" with two to six tiny infants, selling his "goods" from village to village. Not long ago, such a man showed up at the mission compound in Ngu-cheng (Fukien) with four babies in his basket. Three of them had died from exposure and the kerosene oil poured down their throats to numb them and silence their cries. The fourth was bought by the wife of the local preacher for ten cents to save its life. This child was raised and has since graduated from the mission schools with distinction. In Foochow, a stone tablet with the following inscription stands beside a stagnant pool: "From now on, throwing babies into this pool will be punished by law." This was a result of the missionaries' efforts.

Their task is by no means easy and, as Mr. Hanna once remarked, "Yün-nan Province has broken the heart of more than one missionary." The Chinese do not understand their point of view, and it is difficult to make them see it. A Chinaman is a rank materialist and pure altruism does not enter into his scheme of life. As a rule he has but two thoughts, his stomach and his cash bag. It is well-nigh impossible to make him realize that the missionary has not come with an ulterior motive—if not to engage in trade, perhaps as a spy for his government. Others believe that it is because China is so vastly - 207 - superior to the rest of the world that the missionaries wish to live there. Eventually the suspicions of the natives become quieted and they accept the missionary at some part of his true worth.

Their task is far from easy, and as Mr. Hanna once pointed out, "Yün-nan Province has broken the heart of more than one missionary." The Chinese don't grasp their perspective, and it's tough to get them to see it. A Chinese person is primarily materialistic, and pure selflessness doesn't factor into their way of life. Generally, they focus on just two things: their stomach and their wallet. It's nearly impossible to make them understand that the missionary hasn't come with a hidden agenda—if not to trade, then perhaps as a spy for their government. Others think that it's because China is so much better than the rest of the world that missionaries want to be there. Eventually, the locals' suspicions ease, and they begin to appreciate the missionary for some of his true value.

At the time of the rebellion in Yen-ping we saw Harry Caldwell, Mr. Bankhardt and Dr. Trimble save the lives of hundreds of people and the city from partial destruction because the Chinese officers of the opposing forces would trust the missionaries when they would not trust each other.

At the time of the rebellion in Yen-ping, we saw Harry Caldwell, Mr. Bankhardt, and Dr. Trimble save the lives of hundreds of people and the city from partial destruction because the Chinese officers of the opposing forces would trust the missionaries when they wouldn’t trust each other.

An excellent piece of practical missionary work was done in Fukien Province, not long after our visit there. As we have related in Chapter III, several large bands of brigands were established in the hills about Yuchi. Brigandage began there in the following way. During a famine when the people were on the verge of starvation, a wealthy farmer, Su Ek by name, decided to do his share in relieving conditions by offering for sale a quantity of rice which he had accumulated. He approached another man of similar wealth who agreed with him to sell his grain at a reasonable price. Su Ek accordingly disposed of his rice to the suffering people and, when he had remaining only enough to sustain his own family until the following harvest, he sent the peasants to the second man who had also agreed to dispose of his grain.

An impressive act of practical missionary work took place in Fukien Province shortly after our visit there. As we mentioned in Chapter III, several large groups of bandits had set up in the hills around Yuchi. The banditry started in this way: during a famine when people were about to starve, a wealthy farmer named Su Ek decided to help by selling some of the rice he had stored. He reached out to another wealthy individual who agreed to sell his grain at a fair price. Su Ek then sold his rice to the desperate people, and when he had just enough left to feed his own family until the next harvest, he directed the peasants to the second man who had also agreed to sell his grain.

This farmer refused to sell at the stipulated price, and the people, angered at his treachery, looted his sheds. He immediately went to Foochow and reported to the governor that there was a band of brigands abroad in Yuchi County under the leadership of Su Ek, and that they had robbed and plundered his property.

This farmer wouldn't sell at the agreed price, and the people, furious at his betrayal, raided his sheds. He quickly went to Foochow and informed the governor that there was a group of bandits in Yuchi County led by Su Ek, and that they had stolen and vandalized his property.

Without warning a company of soldiers swooped - 208 - down upon the community and arrested a number of men whose names the informer had given. Su Ek made his escape to the hills but he was pursued as a brigand chief, and was later joined by other farmers who had been similarly persecuted. Unable to return to their homes on pain of death they were forced to rob in order to live.

Without any warning, a group of soldiers suddenly descended on the community and arrested several men who were named by the informant. Su Ek managed to escape to the hills, but he was chased as a bandit leader and was later joined by other farmers who had faced similar persecution. Unable to return home under threat of death, they were forced to steal to survive.

Su Ek and others were finally decoyed to Foochow upon the promise that their lives would be spared if they would induce their band to surrender. They met the conditions but the government officials broke faith and the men were executed. Similar attempts were made to enter into negotiations with the brigands and in 1915 two hundred were trapped and beheaded after pardons had been promised them. Naturally the robbers refused to trust the government officials again.

Su Ek and others were eventually lured to Foochow with the assurance that their lives would be spared if they could convince their group to surrender. They met the conditions, but the government officials went back on their word, and the men were executed. Similar attempts were made to negotiate with the bandits, and in 1915, two hundred were caught and beheaded after they had been promised pardons. Naturally, the robbers refused to trust the government officials again.

The months which elapsed between this act of treachery and the spring of 1916, were filled with innumerable outrages. Many townships were completely devastated, either by the bandits or the Chinese soldiers. Little will ever be known of what actually took place under the guise of settling brigandage, behind the mountains which separate Yuchi from the outer world. It is well that it should not be known.

The months that passed between this act of betrayal and the spring of 1916 were filled with countless atrocities. Many towns were completely destroyed, either by the bandits or the Chinese soldiers. Little will ever be known about what really happened disguised as efforts to deal with banditry, behind the mountains that separate Yuchi from the outside world. It's probably for the best that it remains unknown.

During the spring of 1916 a missionary visited Yuchi. Business called him outside the city wall and just beyond the west gate he saw the bodies of ten persons who had that day been executed. Among these were two children, brothers, the sons of a man who was reported to have "sold rice to the brigands." The smaller child had wept and pleaded to be permitted to kneel beside his older brother further up in the row. He was too - 209 - small to realize what it all meant but he wanted to die beside his brother.

During the spring of 1916, a missionary visited Yuchi. Business took him outside the city wall, and just beyond the west gate, he saw the bodies of ten people who had been executed that day. Among them were two children, brothers, the sons of a man who was said to have "sold rice to the bandits." The younger child had cried and begged to be allowed to kneel beside his older brother further up the line. He was too small to understand what was happening, but he wanted to die next to his brother.

In the middle of the field lay a man whose head was partly severed from his body and who had been shot through and through by the soldiers. He was lying upon his back in the broiling sun pleading for a cup of tea or for someone to put him out of his misery. The missionary learned the man's story. It appeared that years ago a law suit in which his father had been concerned had been decided in his favor. In order to square the score between the clans, the son of the man who had lost the suit had reported that he had seen this man carrying rice to the brigands. He had been arrested by the soldiers, partially killed, and left to lie in the glaring sun from nine o'clock in the morning until dark suffering the agonies of crucifixion. Not one of those who heard his moans dared to moisten the parched lips with tea lest he too be executed for having administered to a brigand.

In the middle of the field lay a man whose head was partly severed from his body, shot multiple times by soldiers. He was lying on his back in the scorching sun, begging for a cup of tea or for someone to end his suffering. The missionary found out the man’s story. It turned out that years ago, a lawsuit involving his father had been ruled in his favor. To settle the score between the families, the son of the man who lost the case claimed he saw this man carrying rice to the rebels. He was arrested by the soldiers, partially killed, and left to suffer in the blazing sun from nine in the morning until dark, enduring the agony of crucifixion. Not one of those who heard his cries dared to wet his parched lips with tea, fearing they too would be executed for helping a rebel.

The missionary returned to the city that night vowing that he would make a recurrence of such a thing impossible or he would leave China. He took up the matter with the authorities in Peking in a quiet way and later with the military governor in Foochow. He was well known to the brigands by reputation and visited several of the chiefs in their strongholds. They declared that they had confidence in him but none in the government or its representatives. It was only after assuming full responsibility for any treachery that the brigands agreed to discuss terms.

The missionary returned to the city that night, determined to make sure something like that never happened again, or he would leave China. He approached the authorities in Beijing quietly and later spoke with the military governor in Fuzhou. He was already well known to the brigands by reputation and visited several of their leaders in their hideouts. They said they trusted him, but had no faith in the government or its officials. It was only after he took full responsibility for any betrayal that the brigands agreed to talk about terms.

Upon invitation to accompany him to the 24th Township, the missionary was escorted out to civilization by twenty-five picked men to whom the chief had entrusted - 210 - an important charge. As the group neared the township the missionary sent word ahead to the commander of the northern soldiers to prepare to receive the brigands.

Upon being invited to join him in the 24th Township, the missionary was taken to civilization by twenty-five selected men whom the chief had given an important task. As the group got closer to the township, the missionary sent a message ahead to the commander of the northern soldiers to get ready to receive the brigands.

Seal of a Pardoned Thief.

As the twenty-five bandits appeared upon the summit of a hill overlooking the city, soldiers could be seen forming into squads outside the barracks. Instantly the brigands halted, snapped back the bolts of their rifles, and threw in shells. The missionary realized that they suspected treachery and turning about he said, "I am the guarantee for your lives. If a short is fired kill me first."

As the twenty-five bandits reached the top of a hill overlooking the city, soldiers could be seen organizing into squads outside the barracks. The brigands immediately stopped, pulled back the bolts of their rifles, and loaded shells. The missionary understood that they feared betrayal and turned to them, saying, "I promise for your safety. If a shot is fired, kill me first."

The South Gate at Yung-chang

A Chinese Bride Going Back to Her Mom's Place for New Year's

- 211 -

With two loaded guns at his back and accompanied by the brigands he marched into the city, where they were received by the officials with all the punctilious ceremony so dear to the heart of the Chinese. It had been a dangerous half hour for the missionary. If a rifle had been fired by mistake, and Chinese are always shooting when they themselves least expect to, he would have been instantly killed.

With two loaded guns at his back and flanked by the bandits, he walked into the city, where the officials greeted them with all the meticulous ceremony that is so cherished in Chinese culture. It had been a perilous half-hour for the missionary. If a rifle had gone off accidentally — and the Chinese often shoot when they least expect it — he would have been killed on the spot.

This conference, and others which followed, resulted in several hundred pardons being distributed to the brigands by the missionary himself. The men then returned to their abandoned homes and again took up their lives as respectable farmers. Thus the reign of terror in this portion of the province was ended through the efforts of one courageous man. It is such applied Christianity that has made us respect the missionary and admire his work.

This conference, along with others that followed, resulted in several hundred pardons being handed out to the outlaws by the missionary himself. The men then returned to their deserted homes and resumed their lives as respectable farmers. In this way, the reign of terror in this part of the province came to an end thanks to the efforts of one brave man. It's this type of practical Christianity that has earned our respect for the missionary and admiration for his work.

- 212 -

CHAPTER XXVI

CHINESE NEW YEAR AT YUNG-CHANG

Chinese New Year at Yung-Chang

Y. B. A.

The last half of the expedition began January 18 when we left Ta-li Fu with a caravan of thirty miles for Yung-chang, eight days' travel to the south. The mafus although they had promised faithfully to come "at daylight" did not arrive until nearly noon and in consequence it was necessary to camp at Hsia-kuan at the foot of the lake.

The last half of the expedition began on January 18 when we left Ta-li Fu with a caravan traveling thirty miles to Yung-chang, which was eight days' journey to the south. The mafus, although they had promised to arrive "at daylight," didn’t show up until nearly noon. As a result, we had to set up camp at Hsia-kuan at the edge of the lake.

We improved our time there in hunting about for skins and finally purchased two fine leopards and a tiger. The latter had been brought from the Tonking frontier. There were a number of Tibetans wandering about the market place and in the morning a caravan of at least two hundred horses followed by twenty or thirty Tibetans, passed into the city while it was yet gray dawn. They were bringing tea from P'u-erh and S'su-mao in the south of the province and although they had already been nearly a month upon their journey there was still many long weeks of travel before them ere they reached the wind-blown steppes of their native land.

We spent our time there searching for skins and finally bought two beautiful leopards and a tiger. The tiger had come from the Tonking frontier. There were a lot of Tibetans wandering around the marketplace, and in the morning, a caravan of at least two hundred horses followed by twenty or thirty Tibetans entered the city while it was still dawn. They were bringing tea from P'u-erh and S'su-mao in the southern part of the province, and even though they had already been traveling for nearly a month, they still had many long weeks ahead of them before they reached the wind-swept steppes of their homeland.

The trip to Yung-chang proved uninteresting and uneventful. We crossed a succession of dry, thinly forested mountains from 7,000 to 8,000 feet high which near their summits were often clothed with a thick growth of rhododendron trees. The beautiful red flowers flashed like - 213 - fire balls among the green leaves, peach trees were in full blossom and in some spots the dry hills seemed about to break forth in the full glory of their spring verdure. We crossed the Mekong near a village called Shia-chai on a picturesque chain suspension bridge of a type which is not unusual in the southern and western part of the province. Several heavy iron chains are firmly fastened to huge rock piers on opposite sides of the river and the roadway formed by planks laid upon them. Although the bridge shakes and swings in a rather alarming manner when a caravan is crossing, it is perfectly safe if not too heavily loaded.

The trip to Yung-chang was dull and uneventful. We crossed a series of dry, sparsely wooded mountains ranging from 7,000 to 8,000 feet high, which near their peaks were often covered with thick rhododendron trees. The stunning red flowers popped like fireballs among the green leaves, and the peach trees were in full bloom. In some areas, the dry hills looked poised to burst into the vibrant colors of spring. We crossed the Mekong River near a village called Shia-chai on a picturesque suspension bridge, which isn’t uncommon in the southern and western parts of the province. Several heavy iron chains are securely attached to large rock piers on either side of the river, and the roadway is made of planks laid across them. Although the bridge shakes and sways in a rather alarming way when a caravan crosses, it is completely safe unless it’s overloaded. - 213 -

In the afternoon of January 21, we rode down the mountain to the great Yung-chang plain, and for two hours trotted over a hard dirt road. The plain is eighteen miles long by six miles wide and except for its scattered villages, is almost entirely devoted to paddy fields. The city itself includes about five thousand houses. It is exceedingly picturesque and is remarkable for its long, straight, and fairly clean streets which contrast strongly with those of the usual Chinese town. At the west, but still within the city walls, is a picturesque wooded hill occupied almost exclusively by temples.

In the afternoon of January 21, we rode down the mountain to the vast Yung-chang plain, and for two hours, we trotted along a hard dirt road. The plain is eighteen miles long and six miles wide, and aside from its scattered villages, it's mostly covered in rice fields. The city itself has about five thousand homes. It’s incredibly scenic and stands out for its long, straight, and relatively clean streets, which are a stark contrast to those of a typical Chinese town. To the west, but still within the city walls, there’s a charming wooded hill that’s almost entirely filled with temples.

We ourselves camped between two ponds in the courtyard of a large and exceptionally clean temple just outside the south gate of the city. It was the Chinese New Year and Wu told us that for several days at least it would be impossible to obtain another caravan or expect the natives to do any work whatever. It was a very pleasant place in which to stay although we chafed at the enforced delay, but we made good use of our time in photographing and developing motion picture film, collecting birds and making various excursions.

We set up camp between two ponds in the courtyard of a large and incredibly clean temple just outside the south gate of the city. It was Chinese New Year, and Wu informed us that for at least a few days, it would be impossible to get another caravan or expect the locals to do any work at all. It was a really nice place to stay, even though we were frustrated by the forced delay, but we made the most of our time by photographing and developing motion picture film, collecting birds, and going on various excursions.

- 214 -

Chinese New Year is always interesting to a foreigner and at Yung-chang we saw many of the customs attending its celebration. It is a time of feasting and merry making and no native, if he can possibly avoid it, will work on that day. Chinese families almost always live under one roof but should any male member be absent at this season the circumstances must be exceptional to prevent him from returning to his home.

Chinese New Year is always fascinating to a foreigner, and in Yung-chang, we witnessed many of the customs associated with its celebration. It's a time for feasting and festivities, and no local, if they can help it, will work on that day. Chinese families typically live together under one roof, but if any male member is absent during this time, there must be exceptional reasons for him not to return home.

It is customary, too, for brides to revisit their mother's house at New Year's. On our way to Yung-chang and for several days after leaving the city, we were continually passing young women mounted on mules or horses and accompanied by servants returning to their homes. New clothes are a leading feature of this season and the dresses of the brides and young matrons were usually of the most unexpected hues for, according to our conception of color, the Chinese can scarcely be counted conspicuous for their good taste. Purple and blue, orange and red, pink and lavender clash distressingly, but are worn with inordinate pride.

It’s also a tradition for brides to return to their mother’s house for New Year's. On our way to Yung-chang and for several days after leaving the city, we kept seeing young women riding mules or horses and accompanied by servants heading back to their homes. New clothes are a big deal during this season, and the dresses of the brides and young married women were often in the most surprising colors because, in our view of color, the Chinese aren’t really known for their great taste. Purple and blue, orange and red, pink and lavender clash uncomfortably, but are worn with excessive pride.

These visits are not an unalloyed pleasure to the bride's family. Dr. Smith says in "Chinese Characteristics":

These visits aren't purely enjoyable for the bride's family. Dr. Smith states in "Chinese Characteristics":

When she goes to her mother's home, she goes on a strictly business basis. She takes with her it may be a quantity of sewing for her husband's family, which the wife's family must help her get through with. She is accompanied on each of these visits by as many of her children as possible, both to have her take care of them and to have them out of the way when she is not at hand to look after them, and most especially to have them fed at the expense of the family of the maternal grandmother for as long a time as possible. In regions where visits of this sort are frequent, and where there - 215 - are many daughters in a family, their constant raids on the old home are a source of perpetual terror to the whole family, and a serious tax on the common resources.[6]

When she visits her mom's house, it's purely for business. She often brings a lot of sewing tasks for her husband's family that her own family has to help her finish. She usually brings as many of her kids as possible on these trips, both to keep an eye on them and to get them out of her hair when she can't watch them, and especially to make sure they're fed using their grandmother's family's resources for as long as they can. In areas where visits like this happen often and there are many daughters in a family, their frequent trips back home create constant stress for everyone and put a real strain on shared resources. - 215 - A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

[6] "Chinese Characteristics," by Arthur H. Smith, p. 200.

Religious rites and ceremonies form a conspicuous part in the New Year's celebration. At this time the "Kitchen God," according to current superstition, returns to heaven to render an account of the household's behavior. The wily Chinese, however, first rubs the lips of the departing deity with candy in order to "sweeten" his report of any evil which he may have witnessed during the year.

Religious rituals and ceremonies play a significant role in the New Year's celebration. During this time, the "Kitchen God," according to popular belief, goes back to heaven to give a report on how the household has behaved. Cleverly, the Chinese first coat the lips of the departing deity with candy to "sweeten" his report of any wrongdoings he might have noticed throughout the year.

Usually all the members of the family gather before the ancestral tablets, or should these be lacking as among many of the laboring classes, a scroll with a part of the genealogy is displayed and the spirits of the departed are appeased and honored by the burning of incense and the mumbling of incantations. While strict attention is paid to the religious observance to the dead, at New Year's the most punctilious ceremony is rendered to the living.

Typically, all the family members come together in front of the ancestral tablets, or if those aren't available, like for many working-class families, a scroll with part of the family tree is shown. The spirits of the deceased are honored and appeased by burning incense and softly reciting prayers. While a lot of care is taken to observe rituals for the dead, during New Year's, the most careful ceremonies are performed for the living.

After the family have paid their respects to one another the younger male members go from house to house "kowtowing" to the elders who are there to receive them. The following days are devoted to visits to relatives living in the neighboring towns and villages, and this continues, an endless routine, until fourteen days later the Feast of the Lanterns puts an end to the "epoch of national leisure."

After the family pays their respects to each other, the younger male members go from house to house, bowing to the elders who are there to welcome them. The following days are spent visiting relatives living in nearby towns and villages, and this continues in an ongoing routine until fourteen days later when the Feast of the Lanterns marks the end of the "period of national leisure."

The Chinese are inveterate gamblers and at New Year's they turn feverishly to this form of amusement which is almost their only one. But they also have to - 216 - think seriously about paying their debts for it is absolutely necessary for all classes and conditions of men to meet their obligations at the end of the year.

The Chinese are habitual gamblers, and during New Year's, they eagerly embrace this form of entertainment, which is almost their only one. However, they also need to take their debts seriously, as it's essential for everyone, regardless of their status, to fulfill their obligations by the end of the year. - 216 -

Almost everyone owes money in China. According to the clan system an individual having surplus cash is obliged to lend it (though at a high rate of interest) to any members of his family in need of help. However, a Chinaman never pays cash unless absolutely obliged to and almost never settles a debt until he has been dunned repeatedly.

Almost everyone in China has debts. Based on the clan system, if someone has extra money, they are expected to lend it (though at a high interest rate) to any family members who need assistance. However, a Chinese person rarely pays in cash unless absolutely necessary and almost never settles a debt until they have been asked multiple times.

The activity displayed at New Year's is ludicrous.

The activity shown at New Year's is absurd.

Each separate individual [says Dr. Smith] is engaged in the task of trying to chase down the men who owe money to him, and compel them to pay up, and at the same time in trying to avoid the persons who are struggling to track him down and corkscrew from him the amount of his indebtedness to them! The dodges and subterfuges to which each is obliged to resort, increase in complexity and number with the advance of the season, until at the close of the month, the national activity is at fever heat. For if a debt is not secured then, it will go over till a new year, and no one knows what will be the status of a claim which has actually contrived to cheat the annual Day of Judgment. In spite of the excellent Chinese habit of making the close of a year a grand clearing-house for all debts, Chinese human nature is too much for Chinese custom, and there are many of these postponed debts which are a grief of mind to many a Chinese creditor.

Each person [says Dr. Smith] is trying to track down the people who owe him money and make them pay up, while also trying to avoid those who are trying to find him to get back what he owes them! The tricks and schemes that everyone has to use get more complicated and numerous as the season goes on, until by the end of the month, the situation is at a boiling point. If a debt isn't settled by then, it will carry over into the new year, and no one knows what will happen to a claim that has managed to avoid the annual Day of Judgment. Despite the great Chinese custom of making the end of the year a time to settle all debts, human nature often overcomes tradition, leaving many postponed debts as a source of worry for many Chinese creditors.

The Chinese are at once the most practical and the most sentimental of the human race. New Year mist not be violated by duns for debts, and the debts must be collected New Year though it be. For this reason one sometimes sees an urgent creditor going about early on the first day of the year carrying a lantern looking for his creditor [= debtor]. His artificial light shows that by a social fiction the sun has not yet - 217 - risen, it is still yesterday and the debt can still be claimed. . . .

The Chinese are both the most practical and the most emotional people in the world. New Year can't be disturbed by debt collectors, even though debts need to be paid by New Year’s Day. Because of this, you might see a desperate creditor on the first morning of the year, carrying a lantern, looking for their debtor. The artificial light indicates that, according to social customs, the sun hasn't risen yet—it's still yesterday, and the debt can still be demanded. . . . - 217 -

We have but to imagine the application of the principles which we have named, to the whole Chinese Empire, and we get new light upon the nature of the Chinese New Year festivities. They are a time of rejoicing, but there is no rejoicing so keen as that of a ruined debtor, who has succeeded by shrewd devices in avoiding the most relentless of his creditors and has thus postponed his ruin for at least another twelve months.

We just need to think about how the principles we've discussed apply to the entire Chinese Empire, and we gain new insights into the nature of the Chinese New Year celebrations. It's a time of happiness, but there's no happiness quite like that of a broke debtor who has cleverly found a way to dodge their toughest creditor and has managed to delay their downfall for at least another year.

For, once past the narrow strait at the end of the year, the debtor finds himself again in the broad and peaceful waters, where he cannot be molested. Even should his creditors meet him on New Year's day, there could be no possibility of mentioning the fact of the previous day's disgraceful flight and concealment, or indeed of alluding to business at all, for this would not be "good form" and to the Chinese "Good Form" (otherwise known as custom), is the chief national divinity.[7]

For once he gets past the narrow strait at the end of the year, the debtor finds himself back in the wide and calm waters, where he can't be disturbed. Even if his creditors see him on New Year's Day, there's no way they could bring up the shameful escape and hiding from the previous day, or even mention business at all, because that wouldn't be considered "good form," and for the Chinese, "Good Form" (also known as custom) is the most important national value. [7]

[7] "Village Life in China," by Arthur H. Smith, 1907, pp. 208-209.

Yung-chang appears to be almost entirely inhabited by Chinese and in no part of the province did we see foot-binding more in evidence. Practically every woman and girl, young or old, regardless of her station in life was crippled in this brutal way. The women wear long full coats with flaring skirts which hang straight from their shoulders to their knees. When the trousers are tightly wrapped about their shrunken ankles, they look in a side view exactly like huge umbrellas.

Yung-chang seems to be mainly populated by Chinese people, and we didn’t see foot-binding practiced more anywhere else in the province. Almost every woman and girl, young or old, regardless of their social status, was affected by this cruel practice. The women wear long, loose coats with flaring skirts that fall straight from their shoulders to their knees. When the trousers are tightly wrapped around their tiny ankles, they look like huge umbrellas from the side.

One day we visited a cave thirty li north of the city where we hoped to find new bats. A beautiful little temple has been built over the entrance to the cavern which does not extend more than forty or fifty feet into the rock. But twenty li south of Yung-chang, just beyond the village of A-shih-wo, there is an enormous cave - 218 - which is reported to extend entirely through the hill. Whether or not this is true we can not say for although we explored it in part we did not reach the end. The central corridor is about thirty feet wide and at least sixty or seventy high. We followed the main gallery for a long distance, and turned back at a branch which led off at a sharp angle. We were not equipped with sufficient candles to pursue the exploration more extensively and did not have time to visit it again. The cave contained some beautiful stalactites of considerable size, but the limestone was a dull lead color. We found only one bat and these animals appear not to have used it extensively since there was little sign upon the floor.

One day we visited a cave thirty li north of the city hoping to find new bats. A beautiful little temple has been built over the entrance to the cave which doesn't extend more than forty or fifty feet into the rock. But twenty li south of Yung-chang, just past the village of A-shih-wo, there’s a huge cave - 218 - that’s said to go all the way through the hill. Whether or not that’s true, we can’t say, since we explored only part of it and didn’t reach the end. The main corridor is about thirty feet wide and at least sixty or seventy feet high. We followed the main gallery for a long way, but turned back at a branch that led off at a sharp angle. We didn’t have enough candles to continue exploring deeper and didn’t have time to visit again. The cave had some beautiful, sizable stalactites, but the limestone was a dull lead color. We found just one bat, and it seems these animals haven’t used it much, since there was little evidence on the floor.

At Yung-chang we saw water buffaloes for the first time in Yün-nan but found them to be in universal use farther to the south and west. The huge brutes are as docile as a kitten in the hands of the smallest native child but they do not like foreigners and discretion is the better part of valor where they are concerned.

At Yung-chang, we saw water buffaloes for the first time in Yün-nan, but found them to be commonly used further south and west. The huge animals are as gentle as a kitten in the hands of the smallest local child, but they don’t like foreigners, so it's wise to be cautious around them.

Water buffaloes are only employed for work in the rice fields but Chinese cows are used as burden bearers in this part of the province. Such caravans travel much more slowly than do mule trains although the animals are not loaded as heavily. Two or three of the leading cows usually carry upon their backs large bells hung in wooden frameworks and the music is by no means unmelodious when heard at a distance. Marco Polo, the great Venetian traveler, refers to Yung-chang as "Vochang." His account of a battle which was fought in its vicinity in the year 1272 between the King of Burma and Bengal and one of Kublai Khan's generals is so interesting that I am quoting it below:

Water buffaloes are mainly used for work in the rice fields, while Chinese cows are used as pack animals in this area of the province. These caravans move much more slowly than mule trains, even though the animals aren't loaded as heavily. Usually, two or three of the lead cows carry large bells on wooden frames, and the music sounds quite pleasant from a distance. Marco Polo, the famous Venetian traveler, refers to Yung-chang as "Vochang." His account of a battle that took place nearby in 1272 between the King of Burma and Bengal and one of Kublai Khan's generals is so intriguing that I'm quoting it below:

- 219 -

When the king of Mien [Burma] and Bangala [Bengal], in India, who was powerful in the number of his subjects, in extent of territory, and in wealth, heard that an army of Tartars had arrived at Vochang [Yung-chang] he took the resolution of advancing immediately to attack it, in order that by its destruction the grand khan should be deterred from again attempting to station a force upon the borders of his dominions. For this purpose he assembled a very large army, including a multitude of elephants (an animal with which his country abounds), upon whose backs were placed battlements or castles, of wood, capable of containing to the number of twelve or sixteen in each. With these, and a numerous army of horse and foot, he took the road to Vochang, where the grand khan's army lay, and encamping at no great distance from it, intended to give his troops a few days of rest.

When the king of Mien [Burma] and Bangala [Bengal], who was powerful due to his large number of subjects, extensive territory, and wealth, heard that an army of Tartars had arrived at Vochang [Yung-chang], he decided to move quickly to attack them. He wanted to destroy their forces to stop the grand khan from trying to station troops on his borders again. To prepare for this, he gathered a huge army that included many elephants, which were abundant in his country. These elephants were equipped with wooden battlements or castles that could hold twelve to sixteen soldiers each. With this impressive army of both cavalry and infantry, he headed towards Vochang, where the grand khan's army was located, and set up camp not far from them, planning to give his troops a few days to rest.

As soon as the approach of the king of Mien, with so great a force, was known to Nestardin, who commanded the troops of the grand khan, although a brave and able officer, he felt much alarmed, not having under his orders more than twelve thousand men (veterans, indeed, and valiant soldiers); whereas the enemy had sixty thousand, besides the elephants armed as has been described. He did not, however, betray any sign of apprehension, but descending into the plain of Vochang, took a position in which his flank was covered by a thick wood of large trees, whither, in case of a furious charge by the elephants, which his troops might not be able to sustain, they could retire, and from thence, in security, annoy them with their arrows....

As soon as Nestardin, who led the grand khan's troops, heard that the king of Mien was approaching with a massive force, he felt quite anxious. Despite being a brave and capable officer, he only had about twelve thousand men under his command (who were experienced and valiant soldiers), while the enemy had sixty thousand, plus the elephants outfitted as previously described. However, he didn't show any signs of fear. He went down into the plain of Vochang and took a position where his side was protected by a thick forest of large trees. If the elephants charged fiercely and his troops couldn't withstand it, they would be able to retreat there and safely attack the enemy with their arrows.

Upon the king of Mien's learning that the Tartars had descended into the plain, he immediately put his army in motion, took up his ground at the distance of about a mile from the enemy, and made a disposition of his force, placing the elephants in the front, and the cavalry and infantry, in two extended wings, in their rear, but leaving between them a considerable interval. Here he took his own station, and - 220 - proceeded to animate his men and encourage them to fight valiantly, assuring them of victory, as well from the superiority of their numbers, being four to one, as from their formidable body of armed elephants, whose shock the enemy, who had never before been engaged with such combatants, could by no means resist. Then giving orders for sounding a prodigious number of warlike instruments, he advanced boldly with his whole army towards that of the Tartars, which remained firm, making no movement, but suffering them to approach their entrenchments.

When the king of Mien learned that the Tartars had come down into the plain, he quickly mobilized his army, positioned himself about a mile from the enemy, and organized his forces. He placed the elephants at the front, with the cavalry and infantry in two extended wings behind them, leaving a significant gap between the two. He took his own position there and began to inspire his men, encouraging them to fight bravely. He assured them of victory not only because they outnumbered the enemy four to one, but also because of their powerful elephants, which the enemy had never faced before and would be unable to withstand. After ordering a thunderous display of war instruments, he confidently advanced with his entire army toward the Tartars, who remained still, not moving and allowing his forces to approach their defenses. - 220 -

They then rushed out with great spirit and the utmost eagerness to engage; but it was soon found that the Tartar horses, unused to the sight of such huge animals, with their castles, were terrified, and by wheeling about endeavored to fly; nor could their riders by any exertions restrain them, whilst the king, with the whole of his forces, was every moment gaining ground. As soon as the prudent commander perceived this unexpected disorder, without losing his presence of mind, he instantly adopted the measure of ordering his men to dismount and their horses to be taken into the wood, where they were fastened to the trees.

They quickly ran out with great enthusiasm and eagerness to get involved; but it soon became clear that the Tartar horses, not used to such large animals and their armor, were scared and tried to escape by turning around. Their riders couldn't control them despite their efforts, while the king and his entire army kept gaining ground. As soon as the wise commander noticed this unexpected chaos, he remained calm and immediately decided to have his men get off their horses and take them into the woods, where they were tied to the trees.

When dismounted, the men without loss of time, advanced on foot towards the line of elephants, and commenced a brisk discharge of arrows; whilst, on the other side, those who were stationed in the castles, and the rest of the king's army, shot volleys in return with great activity; but their arrows did not make the same impression as those of the Tartars, whose bows were drawn with a stronger arm. So incessant were the discharges of the latter, and all their weapons (according to the instructions of their commander) being directed against the elephants, these were soon covered with arrows, and, suddenly giving way, fell back upon their own people in the rear, who were thereby thrown into confusion. It soon became impossible for their drivers to manage them, either by force or address. Smarting under the pain of their wounds, and terrified - 221 - by the shouting of the assailants, they were no longer governable, but without guidance or control ran about in all directions, until at length, impelled by rage and fear, they rushed into a part of the wood not occupied by the Tartars. The consequence of this was, that from the closeness of the branches of large trees, they broke, with loud crashes, the battlements or castles that were upon their backs, and involved in the destruction those who sat upon them.

When they got off their mounts, the men quickly moved on foot toward the line of elephants and started firing arrows rapidly. Meanwhile, those stationed in the castles and the rest of the king's army returned fire energetically, but their arrows didn't hit as hard as those of the Tartars, whose bows were drawn with more strength. The Tartars were relentless in their shooting, and following their commander’s orders, all their weapons were aimed at the elephants. They quickly became covered in arrows and, suddenly panicking, retreated back toward their own people, causing chaos. Their drivers couldn’t manage them anymore, whether through force or skill. In pain from their injuries and frightened by the loud attacks, they became unmanageable, running in all directions without direction or control. Driven by fear and rage, they charged into a part of the woods that the Tartars hadn’t occupied. As a result, the elephants, squeezed by the thick branches of large trees, crashed into the battlements or castles on their backs, destroying them and the people riding along.

Upon seeing the rout of the elephants the Tartars acquired fresh courage, and filing off by detachments, with perfect order and regularity, they remounted their horses, and joined their several divisions, when a sanguinary and dreadful combat was renewed. On the part of the king's troops there was no want of valor, and he himself went amongst the ranks entreating them to stand firm, and not to be alarmed by the accident that had befallen the elephants. But the Tartars by their consummate skill in archery, were too powerful for them, and galled them the more exceedingly, from their not being provided with such armor as was worn by the former.

Upon seeing the rout of the elephants, the Tartars gained new courage. They organized themselves into detachments, remounting their horses in perfect order and joining their respective divisions, leading to a renewed and brutal battle. The king's troops showed no lack of bravery, and he personally went among them, urging them to stay strong and not be shaken by the incident with the elephants. However, the Tartars, with their exceptional archery skills, proved to be too strong for the king's forces, causing even more damage because they were not equipped with the armor that the others had worn.

The arrows having been expended on both sides, the men grasped their swords and iron maces, and violently encountered each other. Then in an instant were to be seen many horrible wounds, limbs dismembered, and multitudes falling to the ground, maimed and dying; with such effusion of blood as was dreadful to behold. So great also was the clangor of arms, and such the shoutings and the shrieks, that the noise seemed to ascend to the skies. The king of Mien, acting as became a valiant chief, was present wherever the greatest danger appeared, animating his soldiers, and beseeching them to maintain their ground with resolution. He ordered fresh squadrons from the reserve to advance to the support of those that were exhausted; but perceiving at length that it was impossible any longer to sustain the conflict or to withstand the impetuosity of the Tartars, the greater part of his troops being either killed or wounded, and all the field covered with - 222 - the carcasses of men and horses, whilst those who survived were beginning to give way, he also found himself compelled to take to flight with the wreck of his army, numbers of whom were afterwards slain in the pursuit....

The arrows had run out on both sides, so the men grabbed their swords and iron maces and clashed violently with each other. In no time, there were many terrible wounds, severed limbs, and countless people falling to the ground, injured and dying; the amount of blood spilled was horrific to see. The noise of clashing weapons, along with the shouting and screaming, seemed to reach the heavens. The king of Mien, behaving like a true leader, was everywhere the danger was greatest, encouraging his soldiers and urging them to stand their ground with determination. He ordered fresh troops from the reserve to support those who were exhausted; however, realizing at last that it was impossible to continue the fight or withstand the fury of the Tartars, with most of his troops either killed or injured and the battlefield strewn with the bodies of men and horses, while those who remained were starting to falter, he too was forced to flee with the remnants of his army, many of whom were later killed during the pursuit....

The Tartars having collected their force after the slaughter of the enemy, returned towards the wood into which the elephants had fled for shelter, in order to take possession of them, where they found that the men who had escaped from the overthrow were employed in cutting down trees and barricading the passages, with the intent of defending themselves. But their ramparts were soon demolished by the Tartars, who slew many of them, and with the assistance of the persons accustomed to the management of the elephants, they possessed themselves of these to the number of two hundred or more. From the period of this battle the grand khan has always chosen to employ elephants in his armies, which before that time he had not done. The consequences of the victory were, that he acquired possession of the whole of the territories of the king of Bangala and Mien, and annexed them to his dominions.[8]

The Tartars gathered their strength after defeating the enemy and headed back toward the woods where the elephants had fled for safety, aiming to take control of them. They found that the men who had escaped the defeat were busy chopping down trees and barricading the paths to defend themselves. However, the Tartars quickly destroyed their fortifications, killing many of them, and with help from those experienced in handling elephants, they captured over two hundred of them. Following this battle, the grand khan decided to include elephants in his armies, something he hadn’t done before. As a result of this victory, he took control of all the territories of the king of Bangala and Mien, adding them to his realm.[8]

[8] "The Travels of Marco Polo the Venetian." Everyman's Library. J. M. Dent & Sons, Ltd., London; pp. 255-256.

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CHAPTER XXVII

TRAVELING TOWARD THE TROPICS

Traveling to the tropics

We left Yung-chang with no regret on Monday, January 28. Our stay there would have been exceedingly pleasant under ordinary conditions but it was impossible not to chafe at the delay occasioned by the caravan. Traveling southward for two days over bare brown mountain-sides, their monotony unrelieved except by groves of planted pine and fir trees, we descended abruptly into the great subtropical valley at Shih-tien.

We left Yung-chang without any regrets on Monday, January 28. Our time there could have been really enjoyable under normal circumstances, but it was hard not to feel frustrated by the delay caused by the caravan. After traveling south for two days across dull, brown mountain slopes, only broken up by clusters of planted pine and fir trees, we suddenly dropped down into the huge subtropical valley at Shih-tien.

Mile after mile this fertile plain stretches away in a succession of rice paddys and fields of sugar cane interspersed with patches of graceful bamboo, their summits drooping like enormous clusters of ostrich plumes; the air is warm and fragrant and the change from the surrounding hills is delightful. However, we were disappointed in the shooting for, although it appeared to be an ideal place for ducks and other water birds, we killed only five teal, and the great ponds were almost devoid of bird life. Even herons, so abundant in the north, were conspicuous by their absence and we saw no sheldrakes, geese, or mallards.

Mile after mile, this lush plain stretches out in a series of rice paddies and sugar cane fields, mixed with patches of elegant bamboo, their tops drooping like huge clusters of ostrich feathers. The air is warm and fragrant, and the shift from the surrounding hills is refreshing. However, we were let down by the hunting because, even though it seemed like the perfect spot for ducks and other water birds, we only shot five teal, and the large ponds were nearly empty of bird life. Even herons, which are so common up north, were noticeably absent, and we saw no sheldrakes, geese, or mallards.

At Shih-tien we camped in a beautiful temple yard on the outskirts of the town, and with Wu I returned to the village to inquire about shooting places. We seated ourselves in the first open tea house and within ten minutes more than a hundred natives had filled the - 224 - room, overflowed through the door and windows, and formed a mass of pushing, crowding bodies which completely blocked the street outside. It was a simple way of getting all the village together and Wu questioned everyone who looked intelligent.

At Shih-tien, we camped in a lovely temple yard on the edge of town. Along with Wu, I went back to the village to check out places for shooting. We settled in at the first open tea house, and within ten minutes, more than a hundred locals had filled the room, spilling out through the doors and windows, creating a crowd of pushing, jostling bodies that completely blocked the street outside. It was an easy way to gather everyone from the village, and Wu asked questions to anyone who seemed knowledgeable. 224

We learned that shooting was to be found near Gen-kang, five days' travel south, and we returned to the temple just in time to receive a visit from the resident mandarin. He was a good-looking, intellectual man, with charming manners and one of the most delightful gentlemen whom we met in China.

We found out that shooting was available near Gen-kang, five days' travel to the south, and we got back to the temple just in time to meet the local mandarin. He was a handsome, intellectual man with charming manners and one of the most pleasant gentlemen we encountered in China.

During his visit, and until dinner was over and we had retired to our tents, hundreds of men, women and children crowded into the temple yard to gaze curiously at us. After the gates had been closed they climbed the walls and sat upon the tiles like a flock of crows. Their curiosity was insatiable but not unfriendly and nowhere throughout our expedition did we find such extraordinary interest in our affairs as was manifested by the people in this immediate region. They were largely Chinese and most of them must have met foreigners before, yet their curiosity was much greater than that of any natives whom we knew were seeing white persons for the first time.

During his visit, and until dinner was over and we had settled into our tents, hundreds of men, women, and children gathered in the temple yard to watch us with curiosity. After the gates were closed, they climbed the walls and sat on the tiles like a flock of crows. Their curiosity was endless but friendly, and nowhere during our trip did we encounter such remarkable interest in our activities as we did from the people in this area. They were mostly Chinese and many of them had likely met foreigners before, yet their curiosity was much greater than that of any locals we knew who were seeing white people for the first time.

Just before camping the next day we passed through a large village where we were given a most flattering reception. We had stopped to do some shooting and were a considerable distance behind the caravan. The mafus must have announced our coming, for the populace was out en masse to greet us and lined the streets three deep. It was a veritable triumphal entry and crowds of men and children followed us for half a mile outside the town, running beside our horses and staring with saucer-like eyes.

Just before camping the next day, we went through a large village where we got a really warm welcome. We had stopped to do some shooting and were quite a distance behind the caravan. The mafus must have alerted everyone, because the locals were out en masse to greet us, lining the streets three deep. It truly felt like a triumphant entry, and crowds of men and children followed us for half a mile outside the town, running alongside our horses and staring with wide eyes.

A Chinese ancestor

Young China

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On the second day from Shih-tien we climbed a high mountain and wound down a sharp descent for about 4,000 feet into a valley only 2,800 feet above sea level. We had been cold all day on the ridges exposed to a biting wind and had bundled ourselves into sweaters and coats over flannel shirts. After going down about 1,000 feet we tied our coats to the saddle pockets, on the second thousand stripped off the sweaters, and for the remainder of the descent rode with sleeves rolled up and shirts open at the throat. We had come from mid-winter into summer in two hours and the change was most startling. It was as though we had suddenly ridden into an artificially heated building like the rooms for tropical plants at botanical gardens.

On the second day from Shih-tien, we climbed a high mountain and went down a steep descent for about 4,000 feet into a valley that’s only 2,800 feet above sea level. We had felt cold all day on the ridges exposed to a biting wind, bundling up in sweaters and coats over flannel shirts. After descending about 1,000 feet, we tied our coats to the saddle pockets; after the next thousand, we took off the sweaters, and for the rest of the descent, we rode with our sleeves rolled up and our shirts open at the neck. We had gone from mid-winter to summer in just two hours, and the change was shocking. It felt like we had suddenly entered a heated building, like the rooms for tropical plants at botanical gardens.

Our camp was on a flat plain just above the river where we had a splendid view of the wide valley which was like the bottom of a well with high mountains rising abruptly on all sides. It was a place of strange contrasts. The bushes and trees were in full green foliage but the grass and paddy fields were dry and brown as in mid-winter. The thick trees at the base of the hills were literally alive with doves but there were few mammal runways and our traps yielded no results. That night a muntjac, the first we had heard, barked hoarsely behind the tents.

Our camp was on a flat plain just above the river, giving us an amazing view of the wide valley that looked like the bottom of a well, surrounded by tall mountains rising sharply on all sides. It was a place of odd contrasts. The bushes and trees were lush and green, but the grass and rice fields were dry and brown like mid-winter. The dense trees at the base of the hills were buzzing with doves, yet there were few mammal paths, and our traps didn’t catch anything. That night, a muntjac barked hoarsely behind the tents; it was the first one we had heard.

The yamen "soldier" who accompanied us from Shih-tien delivered his official dispatch at the village (Ma-po-lo) which lies farther down the valley. The magistrate, who proved to be a Shan native, arrived soon after with ten or twelve men and we discovered that there was but one man in the village who spoke Chinese.

The yamen "soldier" who came with us from Shih-tien delivered his official message at the village (Ma-po-lo) further down the valley. The magistrate, who turned out to be a Shan native, showed up shortly after with ten or twelve men, and we found out that there was only one person in the village who spoke Chinese.

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The magistrate at Ma-po-lo by no means wished to have the responsibility of our safety thrust upon him and consequently assured us that there were neither game nor hunters in this village. Although his anxiety to be rid of us was apparent, he was probably telling the truth, for the valley is so highly cultivated (rice), and the cover on the mountain-sides so limited, that it is doubtful if much game remains.

The magistrate at Ma-po-lo definitely didn’t want the responsibility of our safety handed to him, so he assured us that there were no game or hunters in this village. Though it was clear he was eager to get rid of us, he was probably being honest, because the valley is so heavily farmed (rice), and the cover on the mountain sides is so limited that it’s unlikely there’s much game left.

In the morning the entire valley was filled with a dense white fog but we climbed out of it almost immediately, and by noon were back again in winter on the summits of the ridges. The country through which we passed en route to Gen-kang was similar to that which had oppressed us during the preceding week—cultivated valleys between high barren mountains relieved here and there by scattered groves of planted fir trees. It was a region utterly hopeless from a naturalist's standpoint and when we arrived at a large town near Gen-kang we were well-nigh discouraged.

In the morning, the whole valley was covered in a thick white fog, but we quickly climbed out of it, and by noon, we were back in winter on the peaks of the ridges. The area we traveled through en route to Gen-kang was similar to what had weighed us down the week before—farmland nestled between high, barren mountains, occasionally interrupted by scattered groves of planted fir trees. From a naturalist’s perspective, it felt like a completely hopeless region, and when we reached a large town near Gen-kang, we were almost discouraged.

During almost a month of travel we had been guided by native information which without exception had proved worthless. It seemed useless to rely upon it further, and yet there was no other alternative, for none of the foreigners whom we had met in Yün-nan knew anything about this part of the province. We were certain to reach a tropical region farther south and the fact that there were a few sambur skins for sale in the market offered slight encouragement. These were said to come from a village called Meng-ting, "a little more far," to the tune of four or five days' travel, over on the Burma frontier.

For almost a month of traveling, we had relied on local information that had turned out to be useless every time. It felt pointless to depend on it any longer, but there were no other options since none of the foreigners we had met in Yün-nan knew anything about this area of the province. We were sure we would reach a tropical region further south, and the fact that there were a few sambur skins for sale in the market provided a bit of encouragement. These were said to come from a village called Meng-ting, "a little further," about four or five days' journey away, near the Burma border.

With gloom in our hearts, which matched that of the weather, we left in a pouring rain on February 6, - 227 - to slip and splash southward through veritable rivers of mud for two long marches. In the afternoon of the second day the country suddenly changed. The trail led through a wide grassy valley, bordered by heavily forested hills, into a deep ravine. Along the banks of a clear stream the earth was soft and damp and the moss-covered logs and dense vegetation made ideal conditions for small mammalian life.

With heavy hearts, matching the gloomy weather, we set off in a downpour on February 6, - 227 - to slip and splash southward through genuine rivers of mud for two exhausting days. On the afternoon of the second day, the landscape suddenly transformed. The trail meandered through a broad grassy valley, flanked by thickly wooded hills, leading into a deep ravine. Along the banks of a clear stream, the ground was soft and damp, and the moss-covered logs and dense vegetation created perfect conditions for small mammals.

We rode happily up the ravine and stood in a rocky gateway. At the right a green-clothed mountain rose out of a tangle of luxuriant vegetation; to the left wave after wave of magnificent forested ridges lost themselves in the low hung clouds; at our feet lay a beautiful valley filled with stately trees which spread into a thick green canopy overhead.

We happily rode up the ravine and stood in a rocky gateway. On the right, a green mountain rose from a tangle of lush vegetation; on the left, wave after wave of stunning forested ridges faded into the low-hanging clouds; at our feet lay a beautiful valley filled with tall trees that created a dense green canopy overhead.

We camped in a clearing just at the edge of the forest. While the tents were being pitched, I set a line of traps along the base of the opposite mountain and found a "runway" under almost every log. About eight o'clock I ran my traps and, with the aid of a lantern, stumbled about in the bushes and high grass, over logs and into holes. When I emptied my pockets there were fifteen mice, rats, shrews, and voles, representing seven species and all new to our collection. Heller brought in eight specimens and added two new species. We forthwith decided to stay right where we were until this "gold mine" had been exhausted.

We set up camp in a clearing at the edge of the forest. While we were pitching the tents, I set a line of traps at the base of the opposite mountain and found a "runway" under almost every log. Around eight o'clock, I checked my traps and, with the help of a lantern, stumbled through the bushes and tall grass, over logs and into holes. When I emptied my pockets, I had fifteen mice, rats, shrews, and voles, representing seven species and all new to our collection. Heller brought in eight specimens and added two new species. We decided to stay right where we were until we had exhausted this "gold mine."

In the morning our traps were full of mammals and sixty-two were laid out on the table ready for skinning. The length, tail, hind foot, and ear of each specimen was first carefully measured in millimeters and recorded in the field catalogue and upon a printed label bearing our serial number; then an incision was made in the belly, - 228 - the skin stripped off, poisoned with arsenic, stuffed with cotton, and sewed up. The animal was then pinned in position by the feet, nose, and tail in a shallow wooden tray which fitted in the collecting trunk.

In the morning, our traps were full of animals, and we laid out sixty-two of them on the table, ready to be skinned. We first carefully measured the length, tail, hind foot, and ear of each specimen in millimeters and recorded it in the field catalog and on a printed label with our serial number. Then, we made an incision in the belly, stripped off the skin, treated it with arsenic, stuffed it with cotton, and sewed it up. The animal was then pinned in place by its feet, nose, and tail in a shallow wooden tray that fit inside the collecting trunk. 228

The specimens were put in the sun on every bright day until they were thoroughly dry and could be wrapped in cotton and packed in water-tight trunks or boxes. We have found that the regulation U. S. Army officer's fiber trunk makes an ideal collecting case. It measures thirty inches long by thirteen deep and sixteen inches wide and will remain quite dry in an ordinary rain but, of course, must not be allowed to stand in water. The skulls of all specimens, and the skeletons of some, are numbered like the skin, strung upon a wire, and dried in the sun. Also individuals of every species are injected and preserved in formalin for future anatomical study.

The specimens were placed in the sun on every sunny day until they were completely dry and could be wrapped in cotton and packed in waterproof trunks or boxes. We've found that the standard U.S. Army officer's fiber trunk is an ideal collecting case. It measures thirty inches long by thirteen deep and sixteen inches wide and will stay fairly dry in regular rain, but, of course, must not be left standing in water. The skulls of all specimens, and the skeletons of some, are numbered like the skin, strung on a wire, and dried in the sun. Additionally, individuals of each species are injected and preserved in formalin for future anatomical study.

Larger specimens are always salted and dried. As soon as the skin has been removed and cleaned of flesh and fat, salt is rubbed into every part of it and the hide rolled up. In the morning it is unwrapped, the water which has been extracted by the salt poured off, and the skin hung over a rope or a tree branch to dry. If it is not too hot and the air is dry, the skin may be kept in the shade to good advantage, but under ordinary field conditions it should be placed in the sun. Before it becomes too hard, the hide is rolled or folded into a convenient package hair side in, tied into shape and allowed to become "bone dry." In this condition it will keep indefinitely but requires constant watching, for the salt absorbs moisture from the air and alternate wetting and drying is fatal.

Larger specimens are always salted and dried. Once the skin has been removed and cleaned of flesh and fat, salt is rubbed into every part of it, and the hide is rolled up. In the morning, it is unwrapped, the water extracted by the salt is poured off, and the skin is hung over a rope or a tree branch to dry. If it’s not too hot and the air is dry, the skin can be kept in the shade for better results, but under normal field conditions, it should be placed in the sun. Before it gets too hard, the hide is rolled or folded into a convenient package with the hair side in, tied into shape, and allowed to become "bone dry." In this state, it will last indefinitely but requires constant attention, as the salt absorbs moisture from the air, and alternating wetting and drying can be detrimental.

We soon trained two of our Chinese boys to skin - 229 - both large and small animals and they became quite expert. They required constant watching, however, and after each hide had been salted either Mr. Heller or I examined it to make sure that it was properly treated.

We quickly taught two of our Chinese boys how to skin both large and small animals, and they became quite skilled at it. However, they needed constant supervision, and after each hide was salted, either Mr. Heller or I would check it to ensure it was treated correctly.

On our first day in camp we sent for natives to the village of Mu-cheng ten li distant. The men assured us that there were sambur, serow, and muntjac in the neighborhood, and they agreed to hunt. They had no dogs and were armed with crossbows, antiquated guns, and bows and arrows, but they showed us the skins of two sambur in proof of their ability to secure game.

On our first day at camp, we called for locals from the village of Mu-cheng, which was ten li away. The men assured us there were sambur, serow, and muntjac nearby, and they agreed to hunt for us. They didn’t have any dogs and were armed with crossbows, old guns, and bows and arrows, but they showed us the skins of two sambur to prove their ability to catch game.

Like most of the other natives, with the exception of the Mosos on the Snow Mountain, these men had no definite plan in hunting. The first day I went out with them they indicated that we were to drive a hill not far from camp. Without giving me an opportunity to reach a position in front of them, they began to work up the hill, and I had a fleeting glimpse of a sambur silhouetted against the sky as it dashed over the summit.

Like most of the other locals, except for the Mosos on Snow Mountain, these guys didn’t have a clear strategy for hunting. On the first day I went out with them, they signaled that we were going to drive a hill not far from camp. Without letting me get into a position ahead of them, they started making their way up the hill, and I caught a quick glimpse of a sambur outlined against the sky as it rushed over the top.

Two days later while I was out with ten other men who had a fairly good pack of dogs, the first party succeeded in killing a female sambur. The animal weighed at least five hundred pounds but they brought it to our camp and we purchased the skin for ten rupees. South of Gen-kang the money of the region, like all of Yün-nan for some distance from the Burma frontier, is the Indian rupee which equals thirty-three cents American gold in that part of the province adjoining Tonking, French Indo-China money is current.

Two days later, while I was out with ten other men who had a good pack of dogs, the first group managed to kill a female sambur. The animal weighed at least five hundred pounds, but they brought it to our camp and we bought the skin for ten rupees. South of Gen-kang, the currency of the region, like most of Yün-nan near the Burma border, is the Indian rupee, which is worth thirty-three cents in American gold. In the part of the province next to Tonking, French Indo-China currency is used.

My Journal of February 8 tells of our life at this camp, which we called "Good Hope."

My journal from February 8 talks about our life at this camp, which we named "Good Hope."

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The weather is delightful for the sun is just warm enough for comfort and the nights are clear and cold. How we do sleep! It seems hardly an hour from the time we go to bed until we hear Wu rousing the servants, and the crackle of the camp-fire outside the tent. We half dress in our sleeping bags and with chattering teeth dash for the fire to lace our high boots in its comfortable warmth.

The weather is lovely; the sun is pleasantly warm, and the nights are clear and chilly. We sleep so well! It feels like barely an hour passes from when we go to bed until we hear Wu waking the servants and the crackling of the campfire outside the tent. We put on part of our clothes in our sleeping bags and, with chattering teeth, rush to the fire to warm up our high boots in its cozy heat.

After breakfast when it is full daylight, my wife and I inspect the traps. The ground is white with frost and the trees and bushes are dressed in silver. Every trap holds an individual interest and we follow the line through the forest, resetting some, and finding new mammals in others. Yvette has conquered her feminine repugnance far enough to remove shrews or mice from the traps by releasing the spring and dropping them on to a broad green leaf, but she never touches them.

After breakfast, when it’s bright out, my wife and I check the traps. The ground is covered in frost, and the trees and bushes shine like silver. Each trap has its own significance, and we navigate through the forest, resetting some and discovering new animals in others. Yvette has overcome her discomfort enough to take out shrews or mice from the traps by releasing the spring and dropping them onto a broad green leaf, but she never actually touches them.

We go back to meet the hunters and while I am away with the men, the lady of the camp works at her photography. I return in the late afternoon and after tea we wander through the woods together. It is the most delightful part of the day when the sun goes down and the shadows lengthen. We sit on a log in a small clearing where we can watch the upper branches of a splendid tree. It is the home of a great colony of red-bellied squirrels (Callosciurus erythræus subsp.) and after a few moments of silence we see a flash of brown along a branch, my gun roars out, and there is a thud upon the ground.

We head back to meet the hunters, and while I'm out with the men, the lady of the camp is busy with her photography. I return in the late afternoon, and after tea, we stroll through the woods together. This is the most enjoyable part of the day when the sun sets and the shadows grow longer. We sit on a log in a small clearing where we can see the top branches of a beautiful tree. It's home to a large colony of red-bellied squirrels (Callosciurus erythræus subsp.), and after a moment of silence, we spot a flash of brown moving along a branch. I fire my gun, and there's a thud on the ground.

Yvette runs to find the animal and ere the echoes have died away in the forest the gun bangs again. We have already shot a dozen squirrels from this tree and yet more are there. Sometimes a tiny, striped chipmunk (Tamiops macclellandi subsp.) will appear on the lower branches, searching the bark for grubs, and after he falls we have a long hunt to find him in the brown leaves. When it is too dark to see the squirrels, we wander slowly back to camp and eat a dinner of delicious - 231 - broiled deer steak in front of the fire; over the coffee we smoke and talk of the day's hunting until it is time to "run the traps."

Yvette runs to find the animal, and before the echoes fade away in the forest, the gun goes off again. We've already shot a dozen squirrels from this tree, but there are still more. Sometimes a tiny, striped chipmunk (Tamiops macclellandi subsp.) will show up on the lower branches, looking for grubs in the bark, and after we shoot him, we have a long search to find him in the brown leaves. When it gets too dark to see the squirrels, we slowly head back to camp and enjoy a dinner of delicious broiled deer steak by the fire; over coffee, we smoke and chat about the day's hunting until it's time to "run the traps." - 231 -

Of all the work we enjoy this most. With lanterns and a gun we pick our way among the trees until we strike the trail along which the traps are set. On the soft ground our feet are noiseless and, extinguishing the lanterns, we sit on a log to listen to the night sounds. The woods are full of life. Almost beside us there is a patter of tiny feet and a scurry among the dry leaves; a muntjac barks hoarsely on the opposite hillside, and a fox yelps behind us in the forest. Suddenly there is a sharp snap, a muffled squeal, and a trap a few yards away has done its work. Even in the tree tops the night life is active. Dead twigs drop to the ground with an unnatural noise, and soft-winged owls show black against the sky as they flit across an opening in the branches.

Of all the work we do, this is our favorite. With lanterns and a gun, we carefully make our way through the trees until we find the trail where the traps are set. Our footsteps are silent on the soft ground, and after turning off the lanterns, we sit on a log to listen to the sounds of the night. The woods are teeming with life. Almost right next to us, we hear the patter of tiny feet and a scurry among the dry leaves; a muntjac barks hoarsely from the opposite hillside, and a fox yelps behind us in the forest. Suddenly, there’s a sharp snap, a muffled squeal, and a trap a few yards away has done its job. Even in the treetops, nighttime creatures are active. Dead twigs fall to the ground with an eerie sound, and soft-winged owls appear dark against the sky as they glide through an opening in the branches.

We light the lanterns again and pass down the trail into a cuplike hollow. Here there are a dozen traps and already half of them are full. In one is a tiny brown shrew caught by the tail as he ran across the trap; another holds a veritable treasure, and at my exclamation of delight Yvette runs up excitedly. It is a rare Insectivore of the genus Hylomys and possibly a species new to science. We examine it beside the lantern, wrap it carefully in paper, and drop it into a pocket by itself.

We light the lanterns again and walk down the path into a bowl-shaped hollow. Here, there are a dozen traps, and half of them are already filled. One has a tiny brown shrew caught by its tail as it ran across the trap; another holds a real treasure, and at my excited shout, Yvette rushes over. It’s a rare insectivore from the genus Hylomys and possibly a species new to science. We inspect it by the lantern, wrap it carefully in paper, and place it into a pocket by itself.

The next bit of cotton clings to a bush above a mossy log. The trap is gone and for ten minutes we hunt carefully over every inch of ground. Finally my wife discovers it fifteen feet away and stifles a scream for in it, caught by the neck and still alive, is a huge rat nearly two feet long; it too is a species which may prove new.

The next piece of cotton is stuck to a bush above a mossy log. The trap is missing, and for ten minutes, we carefully search every inch of the ground. Finally, my wife spots it fifteen feet away and suppresses a scream because inside, caught by the neck and still alive, is a huge rat nearing two feet long; it’s another species that might be new.

When the last trap has been examined, we follow the trail to the edge of the forest and into the clearing where the tents glow in the darkness like great yellow pumpkins. Ours is delightfully warmed by the charcoal brazier and, stretched comfortably on the beds, we write our daily records or read Dickens - 232 - for half an hour. It is with a feeling of great contentment that we slip down into the sleeping bags and blow out the candles leaving the tent filled with the soft glow of the moonlight.

When we've checked the last trap, we follow the path to the edge of the forest and into the clearing where the tents shine in the dark like big yellow pumpkins. Ours is cozy, warmed by the charcoal brazier, and while lounging comfortably on the beds, we write our daily records or read Dickens for half an hour. We feel a deep sense of contentment as we crawl into our sleeping bags and blow out the candles, leaving the tent softly lit by the moonlight. - 232 -

- 233 -

CHAPTER XXVIII

MENG-TING: A VILLAGE OF MANY TONGUES

MENG-TING: A VILLAGE OF MANY LANGUAGES

During the eight days in which we remained at the "Good Hope" camp, two hundred specimens comprising twenty-one species were added to our collection. Although the altitude was still 5,000 feet, the flora was quite unlike that of any region in which we had previously collected, and that undoubtedly was responsible for the complete change of fauna. We were on the very edge of the tropical belt which stretches along the Tonking and Burma frontiers in the extreme south and west of the province.

During the eight days we spent at the "Good Hope" camp, we added two hundred specimens representing twenty-one species to our collection. Even though we were still at an elevation of 5,000 feet, the plant life was completely different from anything we had collected before, which was definitely the reason for the total change in animal life. We were right on the edge of the tropical zone that runs along the borders of Tonkin and Burma in the far south and west of the province.

It was already mid-February and if we were to work in the fever-stricken valleys below 2,000 feet, it was high time we were on the way southward. The information which we had obtained near Gen-kang had been supplemented by the natives of Mu-cheng, and we decided to go to Meng-ting as soon as possible.

It was already mid-February, and if we were going to work in the fever-stricken valleys below 2,000 feet, it was time for us to head south. The information we had gathered near Gen-kang had been added to by the locals in Mu-cheng, and we decided to go to Meng-ting as soon as we could.

The first march was long and uneventful but at its end, from the summit of a high ridge, we could see a wide valley which we reached in the early morning of the second day. The narrow mountain trail abruptly left us on a jutting promontory and wandered uncertainly down a steep ravine to lose itself in a veritable forest of tree ferns and sword grass. The slanting rays of the sun drew long golden paths into the mysterious depths of the mist-filled valley. To the right a giant sentinel peak of granite rose gaunt and naked from out - 234 - the enveloping sea of green which swelled away to the left in huge ascending billows.

The first march was long and uneventful, but at the end, from the top of a high ridge, we could see a wide valley that we reached early the next morning. The narrow mountain trail suddenly dropped us on a jutting point and wound uncertainly down a steep ravine, ultimately disappearing into a dense forest of tree ferns and sword grass. The slanting rays of the sun created long golden paths into the mysterious depths of the misty valley. To the right, a giant sentinel peak of granite rose stark and bare from the surrounding sea of green, which swelled away to the left in large ascending waves. 234

We rested in our saddles until the faint tinkle of the bell on the leading mule announced the approach of the caravan and then we picked our way slowly down the steep trail between walls of tangled vegetation. In an hour we were breathing the moist warm air of the tropics and riding across a wide valley as level as a floor. The long stretches of rank grass, far higher than our heads, were broken by groves of feathery bamboos, banana palms, and splendid trees interlaced with tangled vines.

We sat in our saddles until we heard the soft jingle of the bell on the leading mule, signaling the caravan's arrival. Then we carefully made our way down the steep path surrounded by thick vegetation. In an hour, we were breathing in the warm, humid air of the tropics, riding across a flat valley that felt as even as a floor. The long sections of tall grass, which were higher than our heads, were dotted with clusters of feathery bamboos, banana palms, and magnificent trees entwined with dense vines.

Near the base of the mountains a Shan village nestled into the grass. The bamboo houses, sheltered by trees and bushes, were roofed in the shape of an overturned boat with thatch and the single street was wide and clean. Could this really be China? Verily, it was a different China from that we had seen before! It might be Burma, India, Java, but never China!

Near the base of the mountains, a Shan village sat nestled in the grass. The bamboo houses, shaded by trees and bushes, had roofs shaped like upside-down boats made of thatch, and the single street was wide and clean. Could this really be China? Truly, it was a different China from what we had seen before! It could be Burma, India, or Java, but never China!

Before the door of a tiny house sat a woman spinning. A real Priscilla, somewhat strange in dress to be sure and with a mouth streaked with betel nut, but Priscilla just the same. And in his proper place beside her stood John Alden. A pair of loose, baggy trousers, hitched far up over one leg to show the intricate tattoo designs beneath, a short coat, and a white turban completed John's attire, but he grasped a gun almost as ancient in design as that of his Pilgrim fathers. Priscilla kept her eyes upon the spinning wheel, but John's gaze could by no stretch of imagination be called ardent even before we appeared around a corner of the house and the pretty picture resolved into its rightful components—a surprised, but not unlovely Shan girl and a well-built, yellow-skinned native who stared with wide brown eyes And open mouth at what must have seemed to him the fancy of a disordered brain.

Before the door of a tiny house, a woman was spinning. She was a real Priscilla, definitely dressed a bit oddly and with a mouth stained from betel nut, but still Priscilla nonetheless. Standing beside her was John Alden. He wore a pair of loose, baggy trousers hitched up over one leg to reveal intricate tattoo designs underneath, along with a short coat and a white turban. In his hand, he held a gun that looked almost as ancient as the ones used by his Pilgrim ancestors. Priscilla focused on the spinning wheel, but John's gaze couldn’t be described as passionate, even before we turned the corner of the house and the lovely scene transformed into its actual elements—a surprised, yet still beautiful Shan girl and a well-built, yellow-skinned native who stared with wide brown eyes and an open mouth at what must have seemed like the fantasy of a confused mind.

A Shan Community

A Shan woman spinning

- 235 -

For into his village, filled with immemorial peace and quiet, where every day was exactly like the day before, had suddenly ridden two big men with white skins and blue eyes, and a little one with lots of hair beneath a broad sun helmet. And almost immediately the little one had jumped from the horse and pointed a black box with a shiny front at him and his Priscilla. At once, but without loss of dignity, Priscilla vanished into the house, but John Alden stood his ground, for a beautiful new tin can had been thrust into his hand and before he had really discovered what it was the little person had smiled at him and turned her attention to the charming street of his village. There the great water buffaloes lazily chewed their cuds standing guard over the tiny brown-skinned natives who played trustingly with the calves almost beneath their feet.

For into his village, filled with timeless peace and quiet, where every day was just like the day before, had suddenly ridden two big men with white skin and blue eyes, and a smaller one with lots of hair under a wide sun helmet. Almost immediately, the little one jumped off the horse and aimed a black box with a shiny front at him and his Priscilla. Without losing her dignity, Priscilla quickly disappeared into the house, but John Alden stood his ground, because a beautiful new tin can had been pushed into his hand, and before he really understood what it was, the little person smiled at him and turned her attention to the charming street of his village. There, the great water buffaloes lazily chewed their cuds, standing guard over the tiny brown-skinned locals who played trustingly with the calves almost at their feet.

Such was our invasion of the first Shan village we had ever seen, and regretfully we rode away across the plain between the walls of waving grass toward the Nam-ting River. Two canoes, each dug out of a single log, and tightly bound together, formed the ferry, but the packs were soon across the muddy stream and the mules were made to swim to the other bank. Shortly after leaving the ferry we emerged from the vast stretches of rank grass on to the open rice paddys which stretched away in a gently undulating plain from the river to the mountains. Strangely enough we saw no ducks or geese, but three great flocks of cranes (probably Grus communis) rose from the fields and wheeled in ever-widening spirals - 236 - above our heads until they were lost in the blue depths of the sky.

This was our first encounter with a Shan village, and reluctantly, we rode away across the plain, surrounded by tall, swaying grass, towards the Nam-ting River. Two canoes, each carved from a single log and securely bound together, made up the ferry, but we quickly got the packs across the muddy water, and the mules were made to swim to the opposite bank. Shortly after leaving the ferry, we came out of the vast fields of thick grass and onto the open rice paddies that stretched in gentle waves from the river to the mountains. Strangely, we didn’t see any ducks or geese, but three large flocks of cranes (probably Grus communis) took flight from the fields and circled in ever-widening spirals above us until they vanished into the blue expanse of the sky. - 236 -

Away in the distance we saw a wooded knoll with a few wisps of smoke curling above its summit, but not until we were well-nigh there did we realize that its beautiful trees sheltered the thatched roofs of Meng-ting. But this was only the "'residential section" of the village and below the knoll on the opposite side of a shallow stream lay the shops and markets.

Away in the distance, we saw a wooded hill with a few wisps of smoke curling above its peak, but it wasn't until we were almost there that we realized the beautiful trees shaded the thatched roofs of Meng-ting. However, this was just the "residential area" of the village, and below the hill, on the opposite side of a shallow stream, were the shops and markets.

We camped on a dry rice dyke where a fringe of jungle separated us from the nearest house. As soon as the tents were up I announced our coming to the mandarin and requested an interview at five o'clock. Wu and I found the yamen to be a large well-built house, delightfully cool and exhibiting several foreign articles which evinced its proximity to Burma.

We set up camp on a dry rice dike, with a strip of jungle between us and the closest house. Once the tents were up, I informed the mandarin of our arrival and asked to meet at five o'clock. Wu and I discovered that the yamen was a spacious, well-constructed house that was pleasantly cool and displayed several foreign items that showed its closeness to Burma.

We were received by a suave Chinese "secretary" who shortly introduced the mandarin—a young Shan not more than twenty years old who only recently had succeeded his late father as chief of the village. The boy was dressed in an exceedingly long frock coat, rather green and frayed about the elbows, which in combination with his otherwise typical native dress gave him a most extraordinary appearance.

We were greeted by a smooth Chinese "secretary" who quickly introduced the mandarin—a young Shan, barely twenty years old, who had recently taken over as the village chief after his father's passing. The boy wore an extremely long frock coat, somewhat green and frayed at the elbows, which, combined with his otherwise typical native attire, gave him a really unusual look.

We soon discovered that the Chinese secretary who did all the talking was the "power behind the throne." He accepted my gift of a package of tea with great pleasure, but the information about hunting localities for which we asked was not forthcoming. He first said that he knew of a place where there were tiger and leopard, but that he did not dare to reveal it to us for we might be killed by the wild animals and he would be responsible for our deaths; bringing to his attention the - 237 - fact that tigers had never been recorded from the Meng-ting region did not impress him in the slightest.

We quickly found out that the Chinese secretary, who did all the talking, was the real "power behind the throne." He happily accepted my gift of a package of tea, but he wasn’t willing to share any details about good hunting spots. At first, he claimed he knew of a place with tigers and leopards, but he wouldn’t tell us because he feared we might get killed by the wild animals and he would be held responsible for our deaths. Mentioning that tigers had never been reported in the Meng-ting region didn’t change his mind at all. - 237 -

It did tend to send him off on another track, however, and he next remarked that if he sent us to a place where the hunting was disappointing we probably would report him to the district mandarin. Assurances to the contrary had no effect. It was perfectly evident that he wished only to get us out of his district and thus relieve himself of the responsibility of our safety. During the conversation, which lasted more than an hour, the young Shan was not consulted and did not speak a word; he sat stolidly in his chair, hardly winking, and except for the constant supply of cigarettes which passed between his fingers there was no evidence that he even breathed.

It did tend to send him off on another track, though, and he next said that if he sent us to a place where the hunting was disappointing, we’d probably report him to the local official. Assurances to the contrary didn’t change anything. It was clear that he only wanted to get us out of his district and relieve himself of the responsibility for our safety. During the conversation, which lasted more than an hour, the young Shan wasn’t consulted and didn’t say a word; he sat there expressionless in his chair, barely blinking, and except for the constant stream of cigarettes passing through his fingers, there was no sign that he even breathed.

The interview closed with assurances from the Chinaman that he would make inquiries concerning hunting grounds and communicate with us in the morning. We returned to camp and half an hour later a party of natives arrived from the yamen bearing about one hundred pounds of rice, a sack of potatoes, two dozen eggs, three chickens, and a great bundle of fire wood. These were deposited in front of our tent as gifts from the mandarin.

The interview wrapped up with the Chinese man promising that he would check on hunting areas and get back to us in the morning. We headed back to camp, and half an hour later, a group of locals showed up from the yamen carrying about one hundred pounds of rice, a sack of potatoes, two dozen eggs, three chickens, and a big bundle of firewood. These were left in front of our tent as gifts from the mandarin.

We were at a loss to account for such generosity until Wu explained that whenever a high official visited a village it was customary for the mandarin to supply his entire party with food during their stay. It would be quite polite to send back all except a few articles, however, for the supplies were levied from the inhabitants of the town. We kept the eggs and chickens, giving the yamen "runners" considerably more than their value in money, and they gratefully returned with the rice and potatoes.

We were puzzled by such generosity until Wu explained that whenever a high official came to a village, it was customary for the mandarin to provide food for the whole group during their stay. It was considered polite to return everything except for a few items since the supplies were taken from the townspeople. We kept the eggs and chickens, giving the yamen "runners" quite a bit more than their cash value, and they happily returned with rice and potatoes.

On the hill high above our camp was a large Shan - 238 - Buddhist monastery, bamboo walled and thatched with straw, and at sunset and daybreak a musical chant of childish voices floated down to us in the mist-filled valley. All day long tiny yellow-robed figures squatted on the mud walls about the temple like a flock of birds peering at us with bright round eyes. They were wild as hawks, these little priests and, although they sometimes left the shelter of their temple walls, they never ventured below the bushy hedge about our rice field.

On the hill above our camp was a large Shan 238 Buddhist monastery, with bamboo walls and a thatched straw roof. At sunset and sunrise, we could hear a musical chant from the child-like voices floating down to us in the misty valley. All day long, tiny figures in yellow robes sat on the mud walls of the temple like a flock of birds, looking down at us with bright, round eyes. These little priests were as wild as hawks; even though they sometimes left the safety of their temple, they never ventured beyond the bushy hedge surrounding our rice field.

In the village we saw them often, wandering about the streets or sitting in yellow groups beneath the giant trees which threw a welcome shade over almost every house. They were not all children, and finely built youths or men so old that they seemed like wrinkled bits of lemon peel, passed to and fro to the temple on the hill.

In the village, we often saw them strolling around the streets or sitting in yellow clusters under the giant trees that offered a nice shade over nearly every house. They weren't all children; there were well-built young men and older men who looked so aged they resembled wrinkled pieces of lemon peel, moving back and forth to the temple on the hill.

There is no dearth of priests, for every family in the village with male children is required to send at least one boy to live a part of his life under the tutelage of the Church. He must remain three years, and longer, if he wishes. The priests are fed by the monastery, and their clothing is not an important item of expenditure as it consists merely of a straw hat and a yellow robe. They lead a lazy, worthless life, and from their sojourn in religious circles they learn only indolence and idleness.

There’s no shortage of priests, since every family in the village with sons has to send at least one boy to spend part of his life learning from the Church. He must stay for three years, or longer if he wants. The monastery provides for the priests' food, and their clothing isn’t a big expense since it’s just a straw hat and a yellow robe. They lead a lazy, unproductive life, and from their time in religious circles, they only pick up habits of laziness and inactivity.

The day following our arrival in Meng-ting the weekly market was held, and when Wu and I crossed the little stream to the business part of the village, we found ourselves in the midst of the most picturesque crowd of natives it has ever been my fortune to see. It was a group flashing with color, and every individual a study for an artist. There were blue-clad Chinese, Shans with tattooed legs, turbans of pink or white, and - 239 - Burmans dressed in brilliant purple or green, Las, yellow-skinned Lisos, flat-faced Palaungs, Was, and Kachins in black and red strung about with beads or shells. Long swords hung from the shoulders of those who did not carry a spear or gun, and the hilts of wicked looking daggers peeped from beneath their sashes. Every man carried a weapon ready for instant use.

The day after we arrived in Meng-ting, the weekly market took place. When Wu and I crossed the small stream to the business part of the village, we found ourselves surrounded by the most colorful crowd of locals I’ve ever seen. It was a vibrant group, and each person was like a work of art. There were blue-clad Chinese, Shans with tattooed legs, turbans in pink or white, and Burmans dressed in brilliant purple or green, Las, yellow-skinned Lisos, flat-faced Palaungs, Was, and Kachins in black and red adorned with beads or shells. Long swords hung from the shoulders of those who weren’t carrying a spear or gun, and the hilts of menacing-looking daggers peeked out from under their sashes. Every man had a weapon at the ready for immediate use.

Nine tribes were present in the market that day and almost as many languages were being spoken. It was a veritable Babel and half the trading was done by signs. The narrow street was choked with goods of every kind spread out upon the ground: fruit, rice, cloth, nails, knives, swords, hats, sandals, skins, horns, baskets, mats, crossbows, arrows, pottery, tea, opium, and scores of other articles for food or household use.

Nine tribes were at the market that day, and there were almost as many languages being spoken. It was like a true Babel, and half of the trade happened through gestures. The narrow street was packed with all kinds of goods laid out on the ground: fruit, rice, fabric, nails, knives, swords, hats, sandals, skins, horns, baskets, mats, crossbows, arrows, pottery, tea, opium, and countless other items for food or home use.

Dozens of natives were arriving and departing, bringing new goods or packing up their purchases; under open, thatched pavilions were silent groups of men gambling with cash or silver, and in the "tea houses" white-faced natives lay stretched upon the couches rolling "pills" of opium and oblivious to the constant stream of passers-by.

Dozens of locals were coming and going, bringing new goods or packing up their purchases; under open, thatched pavilions, quiet groups of men were gambling with cash or silver, and in the "tea houses," pale-faced locals lounged on the couches, rolling "pills" of opium and oblivious to the continuous flow of people walking by.

It was a picturesque, ever changing group, a kaleidoscopic mass of life and color, where Chinese from civilized Canton drank, and gambled, and smoked with wild natives from the hills or from the depths of fever-stricken jungles.

It was a beautiful, constantly changing group, a colorful mix of life and vibrancy, where people from cultured Canton drank, gambled, and smoked with wild locals from the hills or from the depths of fever-stricken jungles.

After one glimpse of the picture in the market I dashed back to camp to bring the "Lady of the Camera." On the way I met her, hot and breathless, half coaxing, half driving three bewildered young priests resplendent in yellow robes. All the morning she had been trying vainly to photograph a priest and had discovered these - 240 - splendid fellows when all her color plates had been exposed. She might have succeeded in bringing them to camp had I not arrived, but they suddenly lost courage and rushed away with averted faces.

After just one look at the picture in the market, I rushed back to camp to get the "Lady of the Camera." On my way, I came across her, hot and out of breath, half persuading, half chasing three confused young priests in bright yellow robes. All morning, she had been trying unsuccessfully to photograph a priest and had spotted these impressive guys after using up all her color plates. She might have managed to bring them to camp if I hadn't shown up, but they suddenly got scared and ran off with their faces turned away. - 240 -

When the plate holders were all reloaded we hurried back to the market followed by two coolies with the cameras. Leaving Yvette to do her work alone I set up the cinematograph. Wu was with me and in less than a minute the narrow space in front of us was packed with a seething mass of natives. It was impossible to take a "street scene" for the "street" had suddenly disappeared. Making a virtue of necessity I focused the camera on the irregular line of heads and swung it back and forth registering a variety of facial expressions which it would be hard to duplicate. For some time it was impossible to bribe the natives to stand even for a moment, but after one or two had conquered their fear and been liberally rewarded, there was a rush for places. Wu asked several of the natives who could speak Chinese if they knew what we were doing but they all shook their heads. None of them had ever seen a camera or a photograph.

When we reloaded all the plate holders, we rushed back to the market, followed by two porters with the cameras. Leaving Yvette to handle her work alone, I set up the cinematograph. Wu was with me, and in under a minute, the narrow space in front of us was filled with a throng of locals. Taking a "street scene" was impossible since the "street" had just vanished. Making the best of the situation, I focused the camera on the irregular line of heads and swung it back and forth, capturing a variety of facial expressions that would be hard to replicate. For a while, it was impossible to persuade the locals to stand still even for a moment, but after a couple of them overcame their fear and were generously rewarded, there was a rush for spots. Wu asked several of the locals who could speak Chinese if they knew what we were doing, but they all shook their heads. None of them had ever seen a camera or a photograph.

The Kachin women were the most picturesque of all the tribes as well as the most difficult to photograph. Yvette was not able to get them at all, and I could do so only by strategy. When Wu discovered two or three squatting near their baskets on the ground I moved slowly up behind them keeping in the center of the crowd. After the "movie camera" was in position Wu suddenly "shooed" back the spectators and before the women realized what was happening they were registered on twenty-five or thirty feet of film.

The Kachin women were the most striking of all the tribes and the hardest to photograph. Yvette couldn't capture them at all, and I could only manage it with some cunning. When Wu spotted two or three sitting by their baskets on the ground, I slowly moved up behind them while staying in the crowd. After the "movie camera" was set up, Wu suddenly shooed away the onlookers, and before the women knew what was happening, they were recorded on twenty-five or thirty feet of film.

A Kachin Woman in the Market
at Meng-ting

One of Our Shan Hunters with Two Yellow Gibbons

- 241 -

One of the Kachin men, who had drunk too much, suddenly became belligerent when I pointed the camera in his direction, and rushed at me with a drawn knife. I swung for his jaw with my right fist and he went down in a heap. He was more surprised than hurt, I imagine, but it took all of the fight out of him for he received no sympathy from the spectators.

One of the Kachin guys, who had too much to drink, suddenly got aggressive when I aimed the camera at him and charged at me with a knife. I threw a punch at his jaw with my right fist and he collapsed. He was probably more shocked than injured, but it completely took the fight out of him since the onlookers didn’t show him any sympathy.

Poor Yvette had a difficult time with her camera operations and a less determined person would have given up in despair. The natives were so shy and suspicious that it was well-nigh impossible to bribe them to stand for a second and it was only after three hours of aggravating work in the stifling heat and dust that she at last succeeded in exposing all her plates. Her patience and determination were really wonderful and I am quite sure that I should not have obtained half her results.

Poor Yvette struggled with her camera work, and a less determined person would have given up in frustration. The locals were so shy and suspicious that it was nearly impossible to convince them to pose for even a moment. It took her three long hours of frustrating work in the sweltering heat and dust before she finally managed to expose all her plates. Her patience and determination were truly impressive, and I’m sure I wouldn't have achieved half of what she did.

The Kachin women were extraordinary looking individuals. They were short, and strongly built, with a mop of coarse hair cut straight all around, and thick lips stained with betel nut. Their dress consisted of a short black jacket and skirt reaching to the knees, and ornamented with strings of beads and pieces of brass or silver. This tribe forms the largest part of the population in northern Burma and also extends into Assam. Yün-nan is fortunate in having comparatively few of them along its western frontier for they are an uncivilized and quarrelsome race and frequently give the British government considerable trouble.

The Kachin women were striking individuals. They were short and stocky, with a thick mass of coarse hair cut straight around their heads, and their lips were thick and stained from chewing betel nut. They wore a short black jacket and a skirt that reached their knees, adorned with strings of beads and pieces of brass or silver. This tribe makes up the largest part of the population in northern Burma and extends into Assam. Yün-nan is lucky to have relatively few of them along its western border because they are seen as uncivilized and combative, often causing significant problems for the British government.

There were only a few Burmans in the market although the border is hardly a dozen miles to the west, but the girls were especially attractive. Their bright pretty faces seemed always ready to break into a smile and their graceful figures draped in brilliant sarongs - 242 - were in delightful contrast to the other, not over-dean, natives.

There were only a few Burmese people in the market, even though the border is just about twelve miles to the west, but the girls were especially beautiful. Their bright, pretty faces always seemed ready to light up with a smile, and their graceful figures dressed in vibrant sarongs stood in charming contrast to the other, not-so-tidy locals. - 242 -

The Burma girls were not chewing betel nut, which added to their distinction. The lips of virtually every other woman and man were stained from the red juice, which is in universal use throughout India, the Malay Peninsula, and the Netherlands Indies. In Yün-nan we first noted it at the "Good Hope" camp, and the Shans are generally addicted to the practice.

The Burma girls weren't chewing betel nut, which set them apart. The lips of almost every other woman and man were stained from the red juice, which is commonly used throughout India, the Malay Peninsula, and the Dutch East Indies. We first noticed it in Yün-nan at the "Good Hope" camp, and the Shans are generally hooked on the practice.

The permanent population of Meng-ting is entirely Shan, but during the winter a good many Cantonese Chinamen come to gamble and buy opium. The drug is smuggled across the border very easily and a lucrative trade is carried on. It can be purchased for seventy-five cents (Mexican) an ounce in Burma and sold for two dollars (Mexican) an ounce in Yün-nan Fu and for ten dollars in Shanghai.

The permanent population of Meng-ting is all Shan, but during the winter, many Cantonese Chinese come to gamble and buy opium. The drug is smuggled across the border quite easily, and there's a profitable trade involved. It can be bought for seventy-five cents (Mexican) an ounce in Burma and sold for two dollars (Mexican) an ounce in Yün-nan Fu and for ten dollars in Shanghai.

Opium is smoked publicly in all the tea houses. The drug is cooked over an alcohol lamp and when the "pill" is properly prepared it is placed in the tiny bowl of the pipe, held against the flame and the smoke inhaled. The process is a rather complicated one and during it the natives always recline. No visible effect is produced even after smoking several pipefuls, but the deathly paleness and expressionless eye marks the inveterate opium user.

Opium is openly smoked in all the tea houses. The drug is heated over an alcohol lamp, and when the "pill" is ready, it’s placed in the small bowl of the pipe, held to the flame, and then inhaled. It's quite a complicated process, and during it, people usually lie back. Even after smoking several bowls, there’s no obvious effect, but the deadly paleness and lifeless eyes are signs of a chronic opium user.

There can be no doubt that the Chinese government has been, and is, genuinely anxious to suppress the use of opium and it has succeeded to a remarkable degree. We heard of only one instance of poppy growing in Yün-nan and often met officials, accompanied by a guard of soldiers, on inspection trips. Indeed, while we were in Meng-ting the district mandarin arrived. We - 243 - were sitting in our tents when the melodious notes of deep-toned gongs floated in through the mist. They were like the chimes of far away cathedral bells sounding nearer and louder, but losing none of the sweetness. Soon a long line of soldiers appeared and passed the camp bearing in their midst a covered chair. The mandarin established himself in a spacious temple on the opposite side of the village, where I visited him the following day and explained the difficulty we had had at the Meng-ting yamen. He aided us so effectually that all opposition to our plans ended and we obtained a guide to take us to a hunting place on the Nam-ting River, three miles from the Burma border.

There’s no doubt that the Chinese government has been, and is, genuinely concerned about stopping the use of opium, and it has been quite successful in that effort. We only heard of one instance of poppy cultivation in Yün-nan and frequently saw officials accompanied by a group of soldiers on inspection trips. In fact, while we were in Meng-ting, the district mandarin showed up. We were sitting in our tents when the beautiful sounds of deep gongs drifted in through the mist. They resembled the bells of distant cathedrals growing closer and louder, yet still maintaining their sweetness. Soon, a long line of soldiers came by our camp, carrying a covered chair in the middle. The mandarin set up in a large temple on the far side of the village, where I visited him the next day and explained the challenges we faced at the Meng-ting yamen. He helped us so effectively that all resistance to our plans disappeared, and we got a guide to take us to a hunting spot on the Nam-ting River, three miles from the Burma border.

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CHAPTER XXIX

CAMPING ON THE NAM-TING RIVER

Camping by the Nam-Ting River

Every morning the valley at Meng-ting was filled with a thick white mist and when we broke camp at daylight each mule was swallowed up in the fog as soon as it left the rice field. We followed the sound of the leader's bell, but not until ten o'clock was the entire caravan visible. For thirty U the valley is broad and flat as at Meng-ting and filled with a luxuriant growth of rank grass, but it narrows suddenly where the river has carved its way through a range of hills.

Every morning, the valley at Meng-ting was covered in a thick white mist, and when we packed up at dawn, each mule disappeared into the fog as soon as it left the rice field. We followed the sound of the leader's bell, but it wasn’t until ten o'clock that the whole caravan became visible. For thirty U, the valley is wide and flat like at Meng-ting, filled with lush, tall grass, but it suddenly narrows where the river has cut through a line of hills.

The trail led uncertainly along a steep bank through a dense, tropical jungle. Palms and huge ferns, broad-leaved bananas, and giant trees laced and interlaced with thorny vines and hanging creepers formed a living wall of green as impenetrable as though it were a net of steel. We followed the trail all day, sometimes picking our way among the rocks high above the river or padding along in the soft earth almost at the water's edge. At night we camped in a little clearing where some adventurous native had fought the jungle and been defeated; his bamboo hut was in ruins and the fields were overgrown with a tangle of throttling vegetation.

The path wound uncertainly along a steep bank through a thick, tropical jungle. Palm trees and massive ferns, broad-leafed banana plants, and towering trees wrapped in thorny vines and creeping plants created a living wall of green as impenetrable as a steel net. We followed the trail all day, sometimes navigating among the rocks high above the river or walking along the soft ground nearly at the water's edge. At night, we camped in a small clearing where some brave local had tried to tame the jungle but failed; his bamboo hut was in ruins, and the fields were choked with overgrown vegetation.

We had seen no mammals, but the birds along the road were fascinating. Brilliant green parrots screamed in the tree tops and tiny sun-birds dressed in garments of red and gold and purple, flashed across the trail like living jewels. Once we heard a strange whirr and saw a - 245 - huge hornbill flapping heavily over the river, every beat of his stiff wing feathers sounding like the motor of an aëroplane. Bamboo partridges called from the bushes and dozens of unfamiliar bird notes filled the air.

We hadn't seen any mammals, but the birds along the road were really interesting. Bright green parrots squawked in the treetops, and tiny sunbirds dressed in red, gold, and purple zipped across the trail like living jewels. Once, we heard a weird whirring sound and spotted a huge hornbill flapping heavily over the river, each beat of its stiff wing feathers sounding like an airplane's engine. Bamboo partridges called from the bushes, and dozens of unfamiliar bird calls filled the air. - 245 -

At eleven o'clock on the following morning we passed two thatched huts in a little clearing beside the trail and the guide remarked that our camping place was not far away. We reached it shortly and were delighted. Two enormous trees, like great umbrellas, spread a cool, dark shade above a sparkling stream on the edge of an abandoned rice field. From a patch of ground as level as a floor, where our tents were pitched, we could look across the brown rice dykes to the enclosing walls of jungle and up to the green mountain beyond. A half mile farther down the trail, but hidden away in the jungle, lay a picturesque Shan village of a dozen huts, where the guide said we should be able to find hunters.

At eleven o'clock the next morning, we passed two thatched huts in a small clearing beside the trail, and the guide mentioned that our camping spot wasn't far away. We reached it soon after and were thrilled. Two massive trees, like giant umbrellas, provided cool, dark shade over a sparkling stream at the edge of an abandoned rice field. From a flat patch of ground where we set up our tents, we could see across the brown rice dikes to the surrounding jungle walls and up to the green mountain beyond. A half mile further down the trail, hidden in the jungle, was a charming Shan village with a dozen huts, where the guide said we could probably find hunters.

As soon as tiffin was over we went up the creek with a bag of steel traps to set them on the tiny trails which wound through the jungle in every direction. Selecting a well-beaten patch we buried the trap in the center, covered it carefully with leaves, and suspended the body of a bird or a chunk of meat by a wire over the pan about three feet from the ground. A light branch was fastened to the chain as a "drag." When the trap is pulled this invariably catches in the grass or vines and, while holding the animal firmly, still gives enough "spring" to prevent its freeing itself.

As soon as lunch was over, we headed up the creek with a bag of steel traps to set them on the narrow paths that wound through the jungle in every direction. Choosing a well-worn spot, we buried the trap in the center, carefully covered it with leaves, and hung the body of a bird or a piece of meat from a wire above the pan about three feet off the ground. We attached a light branch to the chain as a "drag." When the trap is triggered, this always catches in the grass or vines and, while holding the animal securely, still allows enough "give" to prevent it from escaping.

Trapping is exceedingly interesting for it is a contest of wits between the trapper and the animal with the odds by no means in favor of the former. The trap may not be covered in a natural way; the surroundings may be unduly disturbed; a scent of human hands - 246 - may linger about the bait, or there may be numberless other possibilities to frighten the suspicious animal.

Trapping is incredibly fascinating because it involves a battle of wits between the trapper and the animal, with the odds not really in favor of the trapper. The trap might not be hidden naturally; the environment could be overly disturbed; a human scent might linger around the bait, or there could be countless other factors that scare off the cautious animal. - 246 -

In the evening our guide brought a strange individual whom he introduced as the best hunter in the village. He was a tall Mohammedan Chinese who dressed like a Shan and was married to a Shan woman. He seemed to be afflicted with mental and physical inertia, for when he spoke it was in slow drawl hardly louder than a whisper, and every movement of his body was correspondingly deliberate. We immediately named him the "Dying Rabbit" but discovered very shortly that he really had boundless energy and was an excellent hunter.

In the evening, our guide brought a strange person he introduced as the best hunter in the village. He was a tall Chinese Muslim who dressed like a Shan and was married to a Shan woman. He seemed to suffer from mental and physical sluggishness because when he spoke, it was in a slow drawl barely louder than a whisper, and every movement he made was equally slow. We immediately called him the "Dying Rabbit," but soon discovered that he actually had limitless energy and was an outstanding hunter.

The next morning he collected a dozen Shans for beaters and we drove a patch of jungle above camp but without success. There were many sambur tracks in the clearings, but we realized at once that it was going to be difficult to get deer because of the dense cover; the open places were so few and small that a sambur had every chance to break through without giving a shot.

The next morning he gathered a dozen Shans to be beaters, and we drove through a section of jungle above the camp, but had no luck. There were lots of sambur tracks in the clearings, but we quickly understood that getting deer was going to be tough because of the thick cover; the open areas were just too few and small, giving a sambur every opportunity to escape without presenting a shot.

Nearly all the beaters carried guns. The "Dying Rabbit" was armed with a .45-caliber bolt action rifle into which he had managed to fit a .808 shell and several of the men had Winchester carbines, model 1875. The guns had all been brought from Burma and most were without ammunition, but each man had an assortment of different cartridges and used whichever he could force into his rifle.

Nearly all the beaters had guns. The "Dying Rabbit" was equipped with a .45-caliber bolt action rifle that he had somehow loaded with a .808 shell, and several of the men carried Winchester carbines, model 1875. The guns were all brought in from Burma, and most were out of ammo, but each man had a mix of different cartridges and used whatever he could cram into his rifle.

Our Camp on the Nam-ting River

The Shan Village in Nam-ka

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The men worked splendidly under the direction of the "Dying Rabbit." On the second day they put up a sambur which ran within a hundred feet of us but was absolutely invisible in the high grass. When we returned to camp we found that a civet (Viverra) had walked past our tent and begun to eat the scraps about the cook box, regardless of the shouts of the mafus and servants who were imploring Heller to bring his gun. After considerable difficulty they persuaded him that there really was some cause for their excitement and he shot the animal. It was probably ill, for its flesh was dry and yellow, but the skin was in excellent condition.

The men worked incredibly well under the leadership of the "Dying Rabbit." On the second day, they set up a sambur that was just a hundred feet away from us but completely hidden in the tall grass. When we got back to camp, we discovered that a civet (Viverra) had walked past our tent and started eating the scraps around the cook box, ignoring the shouting of the mafus and servants who were begging Heller to get his gun. After some effort, they convinced him that there was indeed a reason for their alarm, and he shot the animal. It was likely sick since its flesh was dry and yellow, but the skin was in great condition.

Civets belong to the family Viverridæ and are found only in Asia and Africa. Although they resemble cats superficially they are not directly related to them and their claws are only partly retractile. They are very beautiful animals with a grayish body spotted with black, a ringed tail, and a black and white striped pointed head. A scent gland near the base of the tail secretes a strong musk-like odor which, although penetrating, is not particularly disagreeable. The animals move about chiefly in the early morning and evening and at night and prey upon birds, eggs, small mammals, fish, and frogs. One which we caught and photographed had a curious habit of raising the hair on the middle of its back from the neck to the tail whenever it was angry or frightened.

Civets are part of the family Viverridæ and are found only in Asia and Africa. While they may look like cats at first glance, they aren’t closely related to them, and their claws are only partially retractable. They are striking animals with grayish bodies covered in black spots, a ringed tail, and a pointed head with black and white stripes. A scent gland near the base of their tail releases a strong musk-like odor that, although overpowering, isn't particularly unpleasant. These animals are mostly active in the early morning, evening, and at night, hunting birds, eggs, small mammals, fish, and frogs. One that we caught and photographed had an interesting habit of raising the fur on its back from its neck to its tail whenever it felt angry or scared.

Although there were no houses within half a mile of camp we were surprised on our first night to hear cocks crowing in the jungle. The note was like that of the ordinary barnyard bird, except that it ended somewhat more abruptly. The next morning we discovered Chanticleer and all his harem in a deserted rice field, and he flew toward the jungle in a flash of red and gold.

Although there were no houses within half a mile of camp, we were surprised on our first night to hear roosters crowing in the jungle. The sound was like that of an ordinary farm bird, except it ended a bit more abruptly. The next morning, we found Chanticleer and all his hens in a deserted rice field, and he flew toward the jungle in a flash of red and gold.

I dropped him and one of his hens with a right and left of "sixes" and found that they were jungle fowl (Gallus gallus) in full plumage. The cock was a splendid bird. The long neck feathers (hackles) spread over his back - 248 - and wings like a shimmering golden mantle, but it was hardly more beautiful than the black of his underparts and green-glossed tail. Picture to yourself a "black-breasted red" gamecock and you have him in all his glory except that his tail is drooping and he is more pheasant-like in his general bearing. The female was a trim little bird with a lilac sheen to her brown feathers and looked much like a well-kept game bantam hen.

I dropped him and one of his hens with a quick jab and a right hook and found out they were jungle fowl (Gallus gallus) in full plumage. The cock was an impressive bird. The long neck feathers (hackles) spread over his back and wings like a shimmering golden cape, but he was hardly more beautiful than the black of his underparts and green-glossed tail. Imagine a "black-breasted red" gamecock, and you’ve got him in all his glory, except that his tail is drooping and he carries himself more like a pheasant. The female was a sleek little bird with a lilac sheen to her brown feathers, resembling a well-groomed game bantam hen. - 248 -

The jungle fowl is the direct ancestor of our barnyard hens and roosters which were probably first domesticated in Burma and adjacent countries long before the dawn of authentic history. According to tradition the Chinese received their poultry from the West about 1400 B.C. and they are figured in Babylonian cylinders between the sixth and seventh centuries B.C.; although they were probably introduced in Greece through Persia there is no direct evidence as to when and how they reached Europe.

The jungle fowl is the direct ancestor of the hens and roosters we have on farms today, which were likely first domesticated in Burma and nearby regions long before recorded history began. According to tradition, the Chinese got their chickens from the West around 1400 B.C., and they appear on Babylonian cylinders from between the sixth and seventh centuries B.C. Although it's likely they made their way to Greece via Persia, there is no clear evidence of when and how they arrived in Europe.

The black-breasted jungle fowl (Gallus gallus) inhabit northern India, Burma, Indo-Chinese countries, the Malay Peninsula, and the Philippine Islands; a related species, G. lafayetti, is found in Ceylon; another, G. sonnerati, in southern India, and a fourth, G. varius, in Java.

The black-breasted jungle fowl (Gallus gallus) lives in northern India, Burma, the countries of Indochina, the Malay Peninsula, and the Philippine Islands; a related species, G. lafayetti, is found in Sri Lanka; another, G. sonnerati, is located in southern India, and a fourth, G. varius, is in Java.

We found the jungle fowl wild and hard to kill even where they were seldom hunted. During the heat of the day they remain in thick cover, but in cloudy weather and in the early morning and evening they come out into clearings to feed. At our camp on the Nam-ting River we could usually put up a few birds on the edge of the deserted rice fields which stretched up into the jungle, but they were never far away from the edge of the forest.

We found the jungle fowl to be wild and tough to hunt, even in areas where they were rarely pursued. During the hottest part of the day, they stay hidden in dense cover, but on cloudy days and in the early morning and evening, they emerge into open areas to feed. At our camp by the Nam-ting River, we could often flush a few birds along the edge of the abandoned rice fields that extended into the jungle, but they were never far from the forest's edge.

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We sometimes saw single birds of either sex, but usually a cock had with him six or eight hens. It was interesting to watch such a flock feeding in the open. The male, resplendent in his vivid dress, shone like a piece of gold against the dull brown of the dry grass and industriously ran about among his trim little hens, rounding up the stragglers and directing his harem with a few low-toned "clucks" whenever he found some unusually tempting food.

We occasionally spotted individual birds of both genders, but usually, a male was accompanied by six or eight females. It was fascinating to observe such a group foraging in the open. The male, dazzling in his bright plumage, stood out like a piece of gold against the dull brown of the dry grass, busily moving around his neat little hens, rounding up any that wandered off and guiding his flock with a few soft "clucks" whenever he came across some particularly tasty food.

It was his duty, too, to watch for danger and he usually would send the flock whirring into the jungle while they were well beyond shotgun range. When flushed from the open the birds nearly always would alight in the first large tree and sit for a few moments before flying deeper into the jungle. We caught several hens in our steel traps, and one morning at the edge of a swamp I shot a jungle fowl and a woodcock with a "right and left" as they flushed together.

It was also his responsibility to keep an eye out for danger, and he would typically send the flock racing into the jungle when they were far beyond shotgun range. When startled from the open, the birds would almost always land in the nearest large tree and rest for a few moments before flying deeper into the jungle. We caught several hens in our steel traps, and one morning at the edge of a swamp, I shot a jungle fowl and a woodcock with a "right and left" as they took off together.

We were at the Nam-ting camp at the beginning of the mating season for the jungle fowl. It is said that they brood from January to April according to locality, laying from eight to twelve creamy white eggs under a bamboo clump or some dense thicket where a few leaves have been scratched together for a nest. The hen announces the laying of an egg by means of a proud cackle, and the chicks themselves have the characteristic "peep, peep, peep" of the domestic birds. After the breeding season the beautiful red and gold neck hackles of the male sometimes are molted and replaced by short blackish feathers.

We were at the Nam-ting camp at the start of the mating season for jungle fowl. It’s said that they nest from January to April depending on the area, laying eight to twelve creamy white eggs under a bamboo clump or in a dense thicket where a few leaves have been gathered for a nest. The hen announces when she lays an egg with a proud cackle, and the chicks make the classic “peep, peep, peep” just like domestic birds. After the breeding season, the male’s beautiful red and gold neck feathers sometimes molt and are replaced with short blackish feathers.

There seems to be some uncertainty as to whether the cocks are polygamous, but our observations tend to show that they are. We never saw more than one male in a - 250 - flock and in only one or two instances were the birds in pairs. The cocks are inveterate fighters like the domestic birds and their long curved spurs are exceedingly effective weapons.

There seems to be some confusion about whether the roosters are polygamous, but our observations suggest that they are. We never saw more than one male in a flock, and in only one or two cases were the birds seen in pairs. The roosters are relentless fighters like domestic birds, and their long, curved spurs are incredibly effective weapons.

We set a trap for a leopard on a hill behind the Nam-ting River camp and on the second afternoon it contained a splendid polecat. This animal is a member of the family Mustelidæ which includes mink, otter, weasels, skunks, and ferrets, and with its brown body, deep yellow throat, and long tail is really very handsome. Polecats inhabit the Northern Hemisphere and are closely allied to the ferret which so often is domesticated and used in hunting rats and rabbits. We found them to be abundant in the low valleys along the Burma border and often saw them during the day running across a jungle path or on the lower branches of a tree. The polecat is a blood-thirsty little beast and kills everything that comes in its way for the pure love of killing, even when its appetite has been satisfied.

We set a trap for a leopard on a hill behind the Nam-ting River camp, and on the second afternoon, we caught a magnificent polecat. This animal belongs to the Mustelidæ family, which includes mink, otters, weasels, skunks, and ferrets. With its brown body, deep yellow throat, and long tail, it’s actually quite striking. Polecats live in the Northern Hemisphere and are closely related to the ferret, which is often kept as a pet and used to hunt rats and rabbits. We found them to be plentiful in the low valleys along the Burma border and frequently spotted them during the day scurrying across a jungle path or on the lower branches of trees. The polecat is a vicious little creature that kills anything in its path simply for the thrill of the hunt, even when it’s not hungry.

On the third morning we found two civets in the traps. The cook told me that some animal had stolen a chicken from one of his boxes during the night and we set a trap only a few yards from our tent on a trail leading into the grass. The civet was evidently the thief for the cook boxes were not bothered again.

On the third morning, we found two civets in the traps. The cook informed me that some animal had stolen a chicken from one of his boxes during the night, so we set a trap just a few yards from our tent on a path leading into the grass. It was clear that the civet was the thief since the cook's boxes weren't disturbed again.

Inspecting the traps every morning and evening was a delightful part of our camp life. It was like opening a Christmas package as we walked up the trails, for each one held interesting possibilities and the mammals of the region were so varied that surprises were always in store for us. Besides civets and polecats, we caught mongooses, palm civets, and other carnivores. The - 251 - small traps yielded a new Hylomys, several new rats, and an interesting shrew.

Checking the traps every morning and evening was a fun part of our camp life. It felt like unwrapping a Christmas gift as we walked along the trails, because each one held exciting possibilities, and the local wildlife was so diverse that we were always in for surprises. In addition to civets and polecats, we caught mongooses, palm civets, and other carnivores. The 251 small traps revealed a new Hylomys, several new rats, and an interesting shrew.

We saw a few huge squirrels (Ratufa gigantea) and shot one. It was thirty-six inches long, coal black above and yellow below. The animals were very shy and as they climbed about in the highest trees they were by no means easy to see or shoot. They represent an interesting group confined to India, Siam, the Malay Peninsula, the islands of the Dutch East Indies, and Borneo.

We spotted a few large squirrels (Ratufa gigantea) and managed to shoot one. It measured thirty-six inches long, with a coal-black top and a yellow underside. The animals were very skittish, and as they moved around in the tallest trees, they were definitely not easy to see or shoot. They belong to an interesting group that is only found in India, Thailand, the Malay Peninsula, the islands of Indonesia, and Borneo.

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CHAPTER XXX

MONKEY HUNTING

Monkey hunting

Our most exciting sport at the Nam-ting camp was hunting monkeys. Every morning we heard querulous notes which sounded much like the squealing of very young puppies and which were followed by long, siren wails; when the shrill notes had reached their highest pitch they would sink into low mellow tones exceedingly musical.

Our most thrilling activity at the Nam-ting camp was hunting monkeys. Each morning, we heard annoying sounds that resembled the squeaking of very young puppies, followed by long, siren-like wails; when the high-pitched calls peaked, they would fade into low, rich tones that were incredibly musical.

The calls usually started shortly after daylight and continued until about nine o'clock, or later if the day was dark or rainy. They would be answered from different parts of the jungle and often sounded from half a dozen places simultaneously. The natives assured us that the cries were made by hod-zu (monkeys) and several times we started in pursuit, but they always ceased long before we had found a way through the jungle to the spot from which they came. At last we succeeded in locating the animals.

The calls usually started soon after sunrise and went on until around nine o'clock, or later if the day was cloudy or rainy. They would be heard from different areas of the jungle and often echoed from six or more places at once. The locals told us that the sounds were made by hod-zu (monkeys), and we tried several times to track them down, but the sounds always stopped long before we could find a path through the jungle to where they originated. Eventually, we managed to pinpoint the animals.

We were inspecting a line of traps placed along a trail which led up a valley to a wide plateau. Suddenly the puppy-like squealing began, followed by a low tremulous wail. It seemed almost over our heads but the trees were empty. We stole silently along the trail for a hundred yards and turned into a dry creek bed which led up the bottom of the forested ravine. With infinite caution, breathing hard from excitement, we slipped along, scanning the top of every tree. A hornbill - 253 - sitting on a dead branch caught sight of us and flapped heavily away emitting horrid squawks. A flock of parrots screamed overhead and a red-bellied squirrel followed persistently scolding at the top of its voice, but the monkeys continued to call.

We were checking a line of traps set along a trail that led up a valley to a wide plateau. Suddenly, we heard a puppy-like squealing followed by a low, shaky wail. It sounded like it was right above us, but the trees were empty. We crept silently along the trail for about a hundred yards and turned into a dry creek bed that ran through the forested ravine. With extreme caution and breathing heavily from excitement, we moved carefully, scanning the tops of every tree. A hornbill perched on a dead branch noticed us and flapped away, making horrible squawking noises. A flock of parrots screeched overhead, and a red-bellied squirrel followed us, scolding loudly, but the monkeys kept calling.

The querulous squealing abruptly ceased and we stood motionless beside a tree. For an instant the countless jungle sounds were hushed in a breathless stillness; then, low and sweet, sounded a moaning wail which swelled into deep full tones. It vibrated an instant, filling all the forest with its richness, and slowly died away. Again and again it floated over the tree tops and we listened strangely moved, for it was like the music of an exquisite contralto voice. At last it ceased but, ere the echoes had reached the valley, the jungle was ringing with an unlovely siren screech.

The annoying squealing suddenly stopped, and we stood still next to a tree. For a moment, all the jungle sounds were quiet in a tense stillness; then, a soft and sweet moan started, growing into deep, full tones. It resonated for a moment, filling the forest with its richness, and then slowly faded away. Over and over, it floated above the treetops, and we listened, strangely moved, as it resembled the music of a beautiful contralto voice. Finally, it stopped, but before the echoes reached the valley, the jungle was filled with an unpleasant siren screech.

The spell was broken and we moved on, alert and tense. The trees stretched upward full one hundred and fifty feet, their tops spread out in a leafy roof. Long ropelike vines festooned the upper branches and a luxuriant growth of parasitic vegetation clothed the giant trunks in a swaying mass of living green. Far above the taller trees a gaunt gray monarch of the forest towered in splendid isolation. In its topmost branches we could just discern a dozen balls of yellow fur from which proceeded discordant squeals.

The spell was broken and we moved on, alert and tense. The trees reached up a full one hundred and fifty feet, their tops spreading out like a leafy roof. Long, rope-like vines decorated the upper branches, and a lush growth of parasitic plants covered the giant trunks in a swaying mass of living green. Far above the taller trees, a tall gray king of the forest stood in splendid isolation. In its highest branches, we could just make out a dozen balls of yellow fur from which came discordant squeals.

It was long range for a shotgun but the rifles were all in camp. I fired a charge of B.B.'s at the lowest monkey and as the gun roared out the tree tops suddenly sprang into life. They were filled with running, leaping, hairy forms swinging at incredible speed from branch to branch; not a dozen, but a score of monkeys, yellow, brown, and gray.

It was a long shot for a shotgun, but all the rifles were back at camp. I pulled the trigger on a load of BBs at the lowest monkey, and as the gun went off, the treetops suddenly came alive. They were filled with running, leaping, hairy creatures swinging at incredible speed from branch to branch; not just a dozen, but a whole bunch of monkeys, yellow, brown, and gray.

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The one at which I had shot seemed unaffected and threw itself full twenty feet to a horizontal limb, below and to the right. I fired again and he stopped, ran a few steps forward and swung to the underside of the branch. At the third charge he hung suspended by one arm and dropped heavily to the ground stone dead.

The one I shot seemed fine and jumped about twenty feet to a horizontal branch, lower down and to the right. I fired again, and it paused, ran a few steps forward, then swung underneath the branch. With the third shot, it hung there by one arm and fell heavily to the ground, completely dead.

We tossed him into the dry creek bed and dashed up the hill where the branches were still swaying as the monkeys traveled through the tree tops. They had a long start and it was a hopeless chase. At every step our clothes were caught by the clinging thorns, our hands were torn, and our faces scratched and bleeding. In ten minutes they had disappeared and we turned about to find the dead animal. Suddenly Yvette saw a splash of leaves in the top of a tree below us and a big brown monkey swung out on a pendent vine. I fired instantly and the animal hung suspended, whirled slowly around and dropped to the ground. Before I had reloaded my gun it gathered itself together and dashed off through the woods on three legs faster than a man could run. The animal had been hiding on a branch and when we passed had tried to steal away undiscovered.

We threw him into the dry creek bed and ran up the hill where the branches were still swaying as the monkeys moved through the treetops. They had a big lead, and it was a hopeless chase. At every step, our clothes got caught on the thorns, our hands were scratched, and our faces were bleeding. In ten minutes, they had vanished, and we turned around to find the dead animal. Suddenly, Yvette spotted a splash of leaves in a tree below us, and a big brown monkey swung out on a vine. I shot instantly, and the animal hung there for a moment, spun slowly around, and then dropped to the ground. Before I could reload my gun, it gathered itself and took off through the woods on three legs faster than a man could run. The animal had been hiding on a branch and had tried to sneak away unnoticed when we passed.

We found the dead monkey, a young male, in the creek bed and sat down to examine it. It was evidently a gibbon (Hylobates), for its long arms, round head, and tailless body were unmistakable, but in every species with which I was familiar the male was black. This one was yellow and we knew it to be a prize. That there were two other species in the herd was certain for we had seen both brown and gray monkeys as they dashed away among the trees, but the gibbons were far more interesting than the others.

We found the dead monkey, a young male, in the creek bed and sat down to check it out. It was clearly a gibbon (Hylobates), recognizable by its long arms, round head, and tailless body, but in every species I knew, the males were black. This one was yellow, and we knew it was a rare find. It was certain that there were two other species in the group because we had seen both brown and gray monkeys as they rushed away through the trees, but the gibbons were way more interesting than the others.

The Head of a Gibbon Found Dead on the Nam-ting River

A civet cat

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Gibbons are probably the most primitive in skull and teeth of all the anthropoid, or manlike, apes,—the group which also includes the gorilla, chimpanzee, and orangutan. They are apparently an earlier offshoot of the anthropoid stem, as held by most authorities, and the giant apes and man are probably a later branch. Gibbons are essentially Oriental being found in India, Burma, Siam, Tonking, Borneo, and the Islands of Hainan, Sulu, Sumatra, and Java.

Gibbons are likely the most primitive in skull and teeth of all the anthropoid, or manlike, apes, which also includes the gorilla, chimpanzee, and orangutan. Most experts believe they are an earlier offshoot of the anthropoid lineage, while the giant apes and humans probably come from a later branch. Gibbons are primarily found in Asia, specifically in India, Burma, Siam, Tonking, Borneo, and the islands of Hainan, Sulu, Sumatra, and Java.

For the remainder of our stay at the Nam-ting River camp we devoted ourselves to hunting monkeys and soon discovered that the three species we had first seen were totally different. One was the yellow gibbon, another a brown baboon (Macacus), and the third a huge gray ape with a long tail (Pygathrix) known as the "langur." On the first day all three species were together feeding upon some large green beans and this happened once again, but usually they were in separate herds.

For the rest of our time at the Nam-ting River camp, we focused on hunting monkeys and quickly realized that the three species we had initially seen were completely different. One was the yellow gibbon, another a brown baboon (Macacus), and the third a large gray ape with a long tail (Pygathrix) known as the "langur." On the first day, all three species were together eating some large green beans, and this happened again, but most of the time they were in separate groups.

The gibbons soon became extremely wild. Although the same troop could usually be found in the valley where we had first discovered them, they chose hillsides where it was almost impossible to stalk them because of the thorny jungle. Usually when they called, it was from the upper branches of a dead tree where they could not only scan every inch of the ground below, but were almost beyond the range of a shotgun. Sometimes we climbed upward almost on our hands and knees, grasping vines and creepers, drawing ourselves up by tree trunks, crawling under thorny shrubs and bushes, slipping, falling, scrambling through the indescribable tangle. We went forward only when the calls were echoing through the jungle, and stood - 256 - motionless as the wailing ceased. But in spite of all our care they would see or hear us. Then in sudden silence there would be a tremor of the branches, splash after splash of leaves, and the herd would swing away through the trackless tree tops.

The gibbons quickly became really wild. Even though the same group could usually be found in the valley where we first discovered them, they started to choose hillsides that were nearly impossible to approach due to the thorny jungle. Most of the time, when they called out, it was from the upper branches of a dead tree where they could not only see everything happening on the ground below but were also almost out of range of a shotgun. Sometimes we climbed up almost on our hands and knees, grabbing onto vines and creepers, pulling ourselves up by tree trunks, crawling under thorny shrubs and bushes, slipping, falling, and scrambling through the chaotic tangle. We only moved forward when their calls echoed through the jungle and stood still as the wailing stopped. But despite all our efforts, they would still see or hear us. Then, in sudden silence, there would be a rustle in the branches, a flurry of leaves, and the group would swing away through the uncharted treetops. - 256 -

The gibbons are well named Hylobates or "tree-walkers" for they are entirely arboreal and, although awkward and almost helpless on the ground, once their long thin hands touch a branch they become transformed as by a miracle.

The gibbons are aptly called Hylobates or "tree-walkers" because they live completely in trees and, while they are clumsy and nearly helpless on the ground, the moment their long, slender hands grip a branch, they are transformed as if by magic.

They launch themselves into space, catch a limb twenty feet away, swing for an instant, and hurl themselves to another. It is possible for them to travel through the trees faster than a man can run even on open ground, and when one examines their limbs the reason is apparent. The fore arms are so exceedingly long that the tips of the fingers can touch the ground when the animal stands erect, and the slender hands are longer than the feet.

They jump into the air, grab a branch twenty feet away, swing for a moment, and then propel themselves to another branch. They can move through the trees faster than a person can run on flat ground, and when you look at their limbs, it's easy to see why. Their forearms are so long that their fingertips can touch the ground when they're standing upright, and their slim hands are longer than their feet.

The gibbons were exceedingly difficult to kill and would never drop until stone dead. Once I shot an old male with my 6½ mm. Mannlicher rifle at about one hundred yards and, even though the ball had gone clear through his body, he hung for several minutes before he dropped into a tangle of vines.

The gibbons were incredibly hard to kill and wouldn’t fall until they were completely dead. Once, I shot an old male with my 6½ mm. Mannlicher rifle from about one hundred yards away, and even though the bullet went right through his body, he hung there for several minutes before finally dropping into a mess of vines.

It was fifteen minutes before we were able to work our way through the jungle to the spot where the animal had fallen, and we had been searching for nearly half an hour when suddenly my wife shouted that a monkey was running along a branch above our heads. I fired with the shotgun at a mass of moving leaves and killed a second gibbon which had been hiding in the thick foliage. Instead of running the animals would - 257 - sometimes disappear as completely as though they had vanished in the air. After being fooled several times we learned to conceal ourselves in the bushes where we could watch the trees, and sooner or later the monkeys would try to steal away.

It took us fifteen minutes to make our way through the jungle to the spot where the animal had fallen, and we had been searching for nearly half an hour when suddenly my wife yelled that a monkey was scampering along a branch above us. I shot at a cluster of moving leaves with the shotgun and took down a second gibbon that had been hiding in the dense foliage. Instead of running away, the animals would sometimes disappear completely as if they had vanished into thin air. After being tricked a few times, we figured out how to hide in the bushes where we could watch the trees, and eventually, the monkeys would try to sneak away. - 257 -

The langurs and baboons were by no means as wild as the gibbons and were found in larger herds. Some of the langurs were carrying babies which clung to their mothers between the fore legs and did not seem to impede them in the slightest on their leaps through the tree tops.

The langurs and baboons weren't as wild as the gibbons and were seen in bigger groups. Some of the langurs were carrying babies that clung to their mothers between their front legs and didn't seem to slow them down at all as they jumped through the treetops.

The young of this species are bright orange-red and strangely unlike the gray adults. As they grow older the red hair is gradually replaced by gray, but the tail is the last part of the body to change. Heller captured one of the tiny red monkeys and brought it back to camp in his coat pocket. The little fellow was only a few days old, and of course, absolutely helpless.

The young of this species are bright orange-red and look completely different from the gray adults. As they age, the red hair slowly turns gray, but the tail is the last part to change. Heller caught one of the tiny red monkeys and brought it back to camp in his coat pocket. The little guy was just a few days old and, of course, totally helpless.

When it was wrapped in cotton with only its queer little wizened face and blue eyes visible it had a startling resemblance to a human baby until its long tail would suddenly flop into sight and dispel the illusion. It lived only four days in spite of constant care.

When it was wrapped in cotton with just its odd little wrinkled face and blue eyes showing, it looked surprisingly like a human baby until its long tail suddenly popped into view and shattered the illusion. It only lived for four days despite constant care.

There are fifty-five species of langurs (Pygathrix) all of which are confined to the Orient. In some parts of India the animals are sacred and climb about the houses or wander in the streets of villages quite without fear. At times they do so much damage to crops that the natives who do not dare to kill the animals themselves implore foreigners to do so. The langurs are not confined to the tropics, but in the Tibetan mountains range far up into the snow and enjoy the cold weather. In the market at Li-chiang we saw several - 258 - skins of these animals which had been brought down by the Tibetans; the hair was long and silky and was used by the Chinese for rugs and coats.

There are fifty-five species of langurs (Pygathrix), all of which are found only in the Orient. In some parts of India, these animals are considered sacred and roam around houses or walk through village streets without fear. Sometimes, they cause so much damage to crops that locals, who are too afraid to harm the animals themselves, ask foreigners to deal with the issue. Langurs aren't limited to tropical areas; they also inhabit the Tibetan mountains, where they venture high into the snow and thrive in the cold weather. In the market at Li-chiang, we saw several - 258 - skins of these animals that had been brought down by Tibetans; the fur was long and silky and was used by the Chinese for making rugs and coats.

The species which we killed at the Nam-ting River camp, like all others of the genus Pygathrix, was interesting because of the long hairs of the head which form a distinct ridge on the occiput. We never heard the animals utter sounds, but it is said that the common Indian langur, Pygathrix entellus, gives a loud whoop as it runs through the tree tops. Often when a tiger is prowling about the jungle the Indian langurs will follow the beast, keeping in the branches just above its head and scolding loudly.

The species we killed at the Nam-ting River camp, like all others in the genus Pygathrix, was fascinating because of the long hairs on its head that create a noticeable ridge at the back. We never heard these animals make any sounds, but it’s said that the common Indian langur, Pygathrix entellus, lets out a loud whoop as it moves through the treetops. Often, when a tiger is roaming the jungle, the Indian langurs will follow it, staying in the branches just above its head and scolding loudly.

The baboon, or macaque, which we killed on the Nam-ting was a close relative of the species (Macacus rhesus) which one sees parading solemnly about the streets of Calcutta, Bombay, and other Indian cities. In Agra, the home of the beautiful Taj Mahal, the Monkey Temple is visited by every tourist. A large herd of macaques lives in the grounds and at a few chuckling calls from the native attendants will come trooping over the walls for the food which is kept on sale at the gate. These animals are surprisingly tame and make most amusing pets.

The baboon, or macaque, that we killed in Nam-ting was closely related to the species (Macacus rhesus) seen strolling around the streets of Calcutta, Bombay, and other Indian cities. In Agra, home to the stunning Taj Mahal, the Monkey Temple attracts every tourist. A large group of macaques lives on the grounds, and at a few amusing calls from the local attendants, they come running over the walls for the food sold at the gate. These animals are surprisingly friendly and make very entertaining pets.

On one of our hunts my wife and I discovered a water hole in the midst of a dense jungle where the mud was trodden hard by sambur, muntjac, wild boar, and other animals. We decided to spend a night watching beside it, but the "Dying Rabbit" who was enthusiastic in the day time lost his courage as the sunlight waned. Very doubtfully he consented to go.

On one of our hunts, my wife and I found a water hole in the middle of a thick jungle where the ground was trampled hard by sambur, muntjac, wild boar, and other animals. We decided to spend a night watching next to it, but the "Dying Rabbit," who was eager during the day, lost his nerve as the sun went down. He reluctantly agreed to go.

Although the trip netted us no tangible results it was an experience of which we often think. We - 259 - started just at dusk and installed ourselves in the bushes a few yards from the water hole. In half an hour the forest was enveloped in the velvety blackness of the tropic night. Not a star nor a gleam of light was visible and I could not see my hand before my face.

Although the trip didn’t yield any concrete results, it’s an experience we often reflect on. We - 259 - began just at dusk and settled ourselves in the bushes a few yards from the water hole. Within half an hour, the forest was wrapped in the velvety darkness of the tropical night. Not a star nor a glimmer of light was visible, and I couldn’t see my hand in front of my face.

We sat absolutely motionless and listened to the breath of the jungle, which although without definite sound, was vibrant with life. Now and then a muntjac barked hoarsely and the roar of a sambur stag thrilled us like an electric shock. Once a wild boar grunted on the opposite bank of the river, the sound coming to us clear and sharp through the stillness although the animal was far away.

We sat completely still and listened to the jungle, which, though silent, was filled with life. Occasionally, a muntjac barked roughly, and the roar of a sambur stag thrilled us like an electric shock. Once, a wild boar grunted on the opposite bank of the river, the sound reaching us clearly and sharply through the stillness, even though the animal was far off.

Tiny forest creatures rustled all about us in the leaves and a small animal ran across my wife's lap, leaping frantically down the hill as it felt her move. For five hours we sat there absolutely motionless. Although no animals came to the water hole we were silent with a great happiness as we groped our way back to camp, for we had been close to the heart of the jungle and were thrilled with the mystery of the night.

Tiny forest creatures rustled all around us in the leaves, and a small animal darted across my wife's lap, frantically leaping down the hill as it sensed her movement. We sat there completely still for five hours. Even though no animals came to the water hole, we were filled with a deep happiness as we made our way back to camp, having been close to the heart of the jungle and excited by the mystery of the night.

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CHAPTER XXXI

THE SHANS OF THE BURMA BORDER

We saw many Shans at the Nam-ting River, for not only was there a village half a mile beyond our camp, but natives were passing continually along the trail on their way to and from the Burma frontier. The village was named Nam-ka. Its chief was absent when we arrived, but the natives were cordial and agreed to hunt with us; when the head man returned, however, he was most unfriendly. He forbade the villagers from coming to our camp and arguments were of no avail. It soon became evident that only force could change his attitude, and one morning, with all our servants and mafus, we visited his house. He was informed that unless he ceased his opposition and ordered his men to assist us in hunting we would take him to Meng-ting for trial before the mandarin. He grudgingly complied and we had no further trouble.

We saw many Shans at the Nam-ting River, since there was a village just half a mile beyond our camp, and locals were continuously walking along the trail to and from the Burma border. The village was called Nam-ka. Its chief was away when we got there, but the locals were friendly and agreed to hunt with us; however, when the chief returned, he was really unfriendly. He ordered the villagers to stay away from our camp, and no amount of arguing changed his mind. It quickly became clear that only force would change his attitude, so one morning, with all our servants and mafus, we went to his house. We informed him that if he didn’t stop opposing us and told his men to help us with hunting, we would take him to Meng-ting for a trial before the mandarin. He reluctantly agreed, and we had no more issues after that.

We found the Shans at Nam-ka to be simple and honest people but abnormally lazy. During our three weeks' stay not a single trap was stolen, although the natives prized them highly, and often brought to us those in which animals had been caught. Shans were continually about our camp where boxes were left unlocked, but not an article of our equipment was missed.

We found the Shans at Nam-ka to be straightforward and honest people, but surprisingly lazy. During our three weeks there, not a single trap was stolen, even though the locals valued them greatly and often brought us traps with animals caught in them. The Shans were constantly around our camp, where we left boxes unlocked, but not a single item from our gear went missing.

A Shan Girl

A Shan Kid

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The Nam-ka Shans elevated their houses on six-foot poles and built an open porch in front of the door, while the dwellings at Meng-ting and farther up the valley were all placed upon the ground. The thatched roofs overhung several feet and the sides of the houses were open so that the free passage of air kept them delightfully cool. Moreover, they were surprisingly clean, for the floors were of split bamboo, and the inmates, if they wore sandals, left them at the door. In the center of the single room, on a large flat stone, a small fire always burned, but much of the cooking was done on the porch where a tiny pavilion had been erected over the hearth.

The Nam-ka Shans raised their houses on six-foot poles and created an open porch in front of the door, while the homes in Meng-ting and further up the valley were all built on the ground. The thatched roofs extended several feet, and the sides of the houses were open, allowing for a nice breeze that kept them comfortably cool. In addition, they were surprisingly clean because the floors were made of split bamboo, and if the residents wore sandals, they left them at the door. In the middle of the single room, a small fire always burned on a large flat stone, but most of the cooking happened on the porch where a small pavilion had been put up over the hearth.

The Shans at Nam-ka had "no visible means of support." The extensive rice paddys indicated that in the past there had been considerable cultivation but the fields were weed-grown and abandoned. The villagers purchased all their vegetables from the Mohammedan hunter and two other Chinese who lived a mile up the trail, or from passing caravans whom they sometimes entertained. In all probability they lived upon the sale of smuggled opium for they were only a few miles from the Burma border.

The Shans at Nam-ka had "no visible means of support." The large rice paddies showed that there had been significant farming in the past, but now the fields were overgrown with weeds and abandoned. The villagers bought all their vegetables from the Muslim hunter and two other Chinese individuals who lived a mile up the trail, or from passing caravans that they occasionally entertained. They likely survived on the sale of smuggled opium since they were only a few miles from the Burma border.

Virtually every Shan we saw in the south was heavily tattooed. Usually the right leg alone, but sometimes both, were completely covered from the hip to the knee with intricate designs in black or red. The ornamentations often extended entirely around the body over the abdomen and waist, but less frequently on the breast and arms.

Virtually every Shan we saw in the south was heavily tattooed. Usually, just the right leg, but sometimes both, were completely covered from the hip to the knee with intricate designs in black or red. The ornaments often wrapped all the way around the body over the abdomen and waist, but were less common on the chest and arms.

All the natives were inordinately proud of these decorations and usually fastened their wide trousers in such a way as to display them to the best advantage. We often could persuade a man to pose before the camera by admiring his tattoo marks and it was most amusing to watch his childlike pleasure.

All the locals were extremely proud of these decorations and usually tied their wide trousers in a way that showcased them nicely. We could often convince a man to pose for the camera by complimenting his tattoos, and it was really entertaining to see his childlike joy.

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The Shan tribe is a large one with many subdivisions, and it is probable that at one time it inhabited a large part of China south of the Yangtze River; indeed, there is reason to believe that the Cantonese Chinamen are chiefly of Shan stock, and the facial resemblance between the two races certainly is remarkable.

The Shan tribe is a large group with many subdivisions, and it’s likely that at one time it lived in a significant area of China south of the Yangtze River; in fact, there’s reason to think that the Cantonese Chinese are primarily of Shan descent, and the facial similarities between the two groups are definitely striking.

Although the Shans formerly ruled a vast territory in Yün-nan before its conquest by the Mongol emperors of China in the thirteenth century A. D., and at one time actually subdued Burma and established a dynasty of their own, at present the only independent kingdom of the race is that of Siam. By far the greatest number of Shans live in semi-independent states tributary to Burma, China, and Siam, and in Yün-nan inhabit almost all of the southern valleys below an altitude of 4,000 feet.

Although the Shans once ruled over a large area in Yün-nan before being conquered by the Mongol emperors of China in the 13th century AD, and even subdued Burma and established their own dynasty, today the only independent kingdom of their people is Siam. The majority of Shans now live in semi-independent states that pay tribute to Burma, China, and Siam, and in Yün-nan, they occupy almost all the southern valleys below an altitude of 4,000 feet.

The reason that the Chinese allow them to hold such an extent of fertile land is because the low plains are considered unhealthy and the Chinese cannot, or will not, live there. Whether or not the malarial fever of the valleys is so exceedingly deadly remains to be proved, but the Chinese believe it to be so and the result is the same. Where the Shans are numerous enough to have a chief of their own they live in a semi-independent state, for although their head man is subordinate to the district Chinese official, the latter seldom interferes with the internal affairs of the tribe.

The reason the Chinese allow them to control such a large amount of fertile land is that the low plains are seen as unhealthy, and the Chinese either can't or won't live there. Whether the malaria in the valleys is actually as deadly as believed is still to be determined, but the Chinese think it is, and the outcome is the same. In areas where the Shans are numerous enough to have their own leader, they live in a semi-independent state, because even though their chief is under the authority of the Chinese official in the district, the official rarely involves himself in the tribe's internal matters.

The Shans are a short, strongly-built race with a distinct Mongolian type of features and rather fair complexions. Their dress varies decidedly with the region, but the men of the southern part of the province on the Nam-ting River wear a pair of enormous trousers, so baggy that they are almost skirtlike, a white jacket, - 263 - and a large white or pink turban surmounted by a huge straw hat. The women dress in a white jacket and skirt of either striped or dark blue cloth; their turbans are of similar material and may be worn in a high cylinder, a low oval, or many other shapes according to the particular part of the province in which they live.

The Shans are a short, stocky people with distinct Mongolian features and relatively fair skin. Their clothing differs quite a bit by region, but the men from the southern part of the province along the Nam-ting River wear very large trousers that are so baggy they almost resemble skirts, a white jacket, and a big white or pink turban topped with a large straw hat. The women wear a white jacket and a skirt made of either striped or dark blue fabric; their turbans are made from similar material and can be styled in a high cylinder, a low oval, or various other shapes depending on the specific area of the province they come from. - 263 -

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CHAPTER XXXII

PRISONERS OF WAR IN BURMA

POWs in Burma

Y. B. A.

The camp at Nam-ka was a supremely happy one and we left it on March 7, with much regret. Its resources seemed to be almost exhausted and the Mohammedan hunter assured us that at a village called Ma-li-ling we would find excellent shooting. We asked him the distance and he replied, "About a long bamboo joint away." It required three days to get there!

The camp at Nam-ka was incredibly joyful, and we departed on March 7, feeling quite sad. Its supplies seemed to be nearly used up, and the Muslim hunter told us that we would find great hunting at a village called Ma-li-ling. We asked him how far it was, and he answered, "About the length of a long bamboo stick." It took us three days to reach it!

Whether the man had ever been to Ma-li-ling we do not know but we eventually found it to be a tiny village built into the side of a hill in an absolutely barren country where there was not a vestige of cover. Our journey there was not uneventful. We left Nam-ka with high hopes which were somewhat dampened after a day's unsuccessful hunting at the spot where our caravan crossed the Nam-ting River.

Whether the man had ever been to Ma-li-ling, we don't know, but we eventually found it to be a tiny village built into the side of a hill in an entirely barren area with no signs of shelter. Our journey there wasn't without its challenges. We left Nam-ka feeling optimistic, but that was somewhat dampened after a day of unsuccessful hunting at the place where our caravan crossed the Nam-ting River.

With a Shan guide we traveled due north along a good trail which led through dense jungle where there was not a clearing or a sign of life. In the afternoon we noted that the trail bore strongly to the west and ascended rapidly. Soon we had left the jungle and emerged into an absolutely treeless valley between high barren hills. We knew that the Burma frontier could not be far away, and in a few moments we passed a - 265 - large square "boundary stone"; a hundred yards on the other side the hills were covered with bright green stalks and here and there a field glistened with white poppy blossoms. The guide insisted that we were on the direct road to Ma-li-ling which for the first time he said was in Burma. On our map it was marked well over the border in Chinese territory and we were greatly puzzled.

With a Shan guide, we headed north along a good trail that took us through dense jungle, with no clearings or signs of life. In the afternoon, we noticed that the trail veered strongly to the west and started climbing quickly. Soon, we left the jungle and emerged into a completely treeless valley surrounded by high, barren hills. We realized that the Burma border couldn't be far off, and moments later, we passed a large, square "boundary stone." Just a hundred yards beyond that, the hills were covered in bright green stalks, and here and there, fields sparkled with white poppy blossoms. The guide insisted we were on the direct route to Ma-li-ling, which for the first time he said was in Burma. On our map, it was marked well within Chinese territory, which left us very confused. 265

About six o'clock the brown huts of a village were silhouetted against the sky on a tiny knoll in the midst of a grove of beautiful trees, and we camped at the edge of a water hole. The pool was almost liquid mud, but we were told that it was the only water supply of the village and its cattle. As though to prove the statement a dozen buffalos ambled slowly down the hill, and stood half submerged in the brown liquid, placidly chewing their cuds; meanwhile blue-clad Shan women with buckets in their hands were constantly arriving at the pond for their evening supply of water. We had no filter and it was nauseating to think of drinking the filthy liquid but there was no alternative and after repeated boiling and several strainings we settled it with alum and disguised its taste in tea and soup.

About six o'clock, the brown huts of a village were outlined against the sky on a small hill in the midst of a grove of beautiful trees, and we set up camp at the edge of a water hole. The pool was nearly liquid mud, but we were told it was the only water source for the village and its cattle. To prove this, a dozen buffalo ambled slowly down the hill, standing half submerged in the brown liquid, calmly chewing their cuds. Meanwhile, blue-clad Shan women with buckets in their hands were constantly arriving at the pond for their evening water supply. We had no filter, and it was sickening to think about drinking the dirty liquid, but there was no choice. After repeated boiling and several strainings, we treated it with alum and masked its taste in tea and soup.

After dinner we questioned the few natives who spoke Chinese, but we became only more and more confused. They knew of no such place as Ma-li-ling and our Shan guide had discreetly disappeared. But they were familiar with the trail to Ma-li-pa, a village farther west in Burma and, moreover, they said that two hundred foreign soldiers were stationed there. We were quite certain that they must be native Indian troops but thought that a white officer might perhaps be in command.

After dinner, we questioned the few locals who spoke Chinese, but it only left us more confused. They had no knowledge of a place called Ma-li-ling, and our Shan guide had quietly vanished. However, they were familiar with the trail to Ma-li-pa, a village further west in Burma, and they mentioned that two hundred foreign soldiers were stationed there. We were pretty sure they were native Indian troops but thought there might be a white officer in command.

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We did not wish to cross the frontier because of possible political difficulties since we had no permits to shoot in Burma, but there seemed to be no alternative, for we were hopelessly bewildered by the mythical Ma-li-ling. We eventually discovered that there were two villages by that name—one in Burma, and the other in China, where it was correctly placed on the map which we were using.

We didn't want to cross the border due to potential political issues since we didn't have permits to hunt in Burma, but there didn't seem to be any other choice, as we were completely confused by the legendary Ma-li-ling. We eventually found out that there were two villages with that name—one in Burma and the other in China, where it was accurately marked on the map we were using.

While we were discussing the matter a tremendous altercation arose between the Chinese mafus and the servants. For some time Roy did not interfere, supposing it to be a personal quarrel, but the disturbance at last became unbearable. Calling Wu we learned that because we had been so careful to avoid English territory the mafus had conceived the idea that for some reason we were afraid to meet other foreigners. Since we had inadvertently crossed into Burma it appeared to them that it would be an opportune time to extort an increase of wages. They announced, therefore, that unless extra money was given them at once they would untie the loads and leave us.

While we were discussing the situation, a huge argument broke out between the Chinese mafus and the servants. For a while, Roy didn't get involved, thinking it was a personal dispute, but eventually, the chaos became too much to handle. After calling Wu, we learned that because we had been careful to stay out of English territory, the mafus thought we were somehow afraid to encounter other foreigners. Since we had unintentionally crossed into Burma, they saw it as a perfect opportunity to demand a pay raise. They declared that unless they received extra money immediately, they would untie the loads and abandon us.

They were hardly prepared for what followed, however. Taking his Mannlicher rifle, Roy called the mafus together and told them that if any man touched a load he would begin to shoot the mules and that if they made the slightest resistance the gun would be turned on them. A mafus' mules represent all his property and they did not relish the turn affairs had taken. They subsided at once, but we had the loads guarded during the night. In the morning the mafus were exceedingly surprised when they learned that we were going to Ma-li-pa and their change of front was - 267 - laughable; they were as humble and anxious to please as they had been belligerent the night before.

They were barely ready for what happened next. Taking his Mannlicher rifle, Roy gathered the porters and warned them that if anyone touched a load, he would start shooting the mules, and if they showed any resistance, he would aim the gun at them. The porters’ mules represented all their belongings, and they didn’t like how things had turned. They immediately quieted down, but we kept the loads protected throughout the night. In the morning, the porters were very surprised to find out we were heading to Ma-li-pa, and their change in attitude was funny; they were as humble and eager to please as they had been aggressive the night before. - 267 -

The trail led over the same treeless rolling hills through which we had passed on the previous afternoon. There was only one village, but it was surrounded by poppy fields in full blossom. It must be a rather difficult matter for a native living in China near the border to understand why he should not be allowed to produce the lucrative opium while only a few yards away, over an imaginary line, it can be planted without restriction. Poppies seem to grow on hillsides better than on level ground. The plants begin to blossom in late February and the petals, when about to fall, are collected for the purpose of making "leaves" with which to cover the balls of opium. The seed pods which are left after the petals drop off are scarified vertically, at intervals of two or three days, by means of a sharp cutting instrument. The operation is usually performed about four o'clock in the afternoon, and the opium, in the form of dried juice, is collected the next morning. When China, in 1906, forbade the consumption of opium and the growing of poppies, it was estimated that there were from twenty-five to thirty millions of smokers in the Empire.

The trail led over the same treeless rolling hills we had walked through the previous afternoon. There was only one village, but it was surrounded by poppy fields in full bloom. It must be pretty hard for someone living in China near the border to understand why they can’t grow the profitable opium when just a short distance away, across an imaginary line, it can be planted freely. Poppies appear to thrive better on hillsides than in flat areas. The plants start blooming in late February, and the petals, when they’re about to drop, are gathered to make "leaves" for covering the opium balls. After the petals fall, the seed pods are cut vertically, every two or three days, using a sharp cutting tool. This is usually done around four o'clock in the afternoon, and the opium, in the form of dried juice, is collected the next morning. When China banned the use of opium and the cultivation of poppies in 1906, it was estimated that there were between twenty-five and thirty million smokers in the Empire.

We reached Ma-li-pa about one o'clock in the afternoon and found it to be a straggling village built on two sides of a deep ravine, with a mixed population of Shans and Chinese. It happened to be the weekly market day and the "bazaar" was crowded. A number of Indian soldiers in khaki were standing about, and I called out to Roy, "I wonder if any of them speak English." Instantly a little fellow approached, with cap in hand, and said, "Yes, Madame, I speak English."

We arrived in Ma-li-pa around one o'clock in the afternoon and discovered it to be a sprawling village built on either side of a deep ravine, home to a mixed population of Shans and Chinese. It was market day, and the "bazaar" was bustling. Several Indian soldiers in khaki were hanging around, and I called out to Roy, "I wonder if any of them speak English." Suddenly, a small guy came up, cap in hand, and said, "Yes, Madame, I speak English."

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One cannot realize how strange it seemed to hear our own language from a native in this out-of-the-way spot I He was the "compounder," or medical assistant, and told us that the hundred native troops were in charge of a white officer whose house was on the opposite side of the river gorge. He guided us to a temple and, while the mules were being unloaded, in walked a tall, handsome young British officer who introduced himself as Captain Clive. He was almost speechless with surprise at seeing me, for he had not spoken a sentence in English or seen a white person since his arrival at this lonely post five months before.

One can't imagine how strange it was to hear our own language from a local in this remote place. He was the "compounder," or medical assistant, and he told us that the hundred native troops were led by a white officer whose house was on the other side of the river gorge. He took us to a temple and, while the mules were being unloaded, a tall, handsome young British officer walked in and introduced himself as Captain Clive. He was almost at a loss for words when he saw me, as he hadn’t spoken a word in English or seen another white person since he arrived at this isolated post five months ago.

He asked us at once to come to his quarters for tiffin and we accepted gladly. On the way he gave us our first news of the outside world, for we had been beyond communication of any sort for months, and we learned that the United States had severed diplomatic relations with Germany.

He immediately invited us to his room for lunch, and we happily accepted. On the way, he shared our first news from the outside world since we had been cut off from any communication for months, and we found out that the United States had broken off diplomatic relations with Germany.

Captain Clive's bungalow was a two-room bamboo house with a broad verandah and thatched with straw. It was delightfully cool and dark after the glare of the yellow sun-baked plains about us, and in perfect order. The care which Britishers take to keep from "letting down" while guarding the frontiers of their vast empire is proverbial, and Captain Clive was a splendid example of the Indian officer. He was as clean-shaved and well-groomed as though he had been expecting us for days and the tiffin to which we sat down was as dainty and well served as it could have been in the midst of civilization.

Captain Clive's bungalow was a two-room bamboo house with a wide porch and a thatched straw roof. It was wonderfully cool and dark after the bright glare of the sun-baked plains surrounding us and was perfectly organized. The meticulousness with which the British maintain their standards while protecting the frontiers of their vast empire is well-known, and Captain Clive was a great example of an Indian officer. He was clean-shaven and well-groomed, as if he had been anticipating our arrival for days, and the lunch we had was as elegant and well-presented as it could be in a civilized setting.

The great Lord Clive of India was an ancestor of our young officer who had been temporarily detached from his regiment, the 129th Baluchis, and sent on border - 269 - duty. He was very unhappy, for his brother officers were in active service in East Africa, and he had tried to resign several times, but the Indian government would not release him. When we reached Rangoon some months later we were glad to learn that he had rejoined his regiment and was at the front. Ma-li-pa was a recently established "winter station" and in May would be abandoned when the troop returned to Lashio, ten days' journey away. Comfortable barracks, cook houses, and a hospital had been erected beside a large space which had been cleaned of turf for a parade ground.

The great Lord Clive of India was an ancestor of our young officer who had been temporarily detached from his regiment, the 129th Baluchis, and sent on border duty. He was very unhappy because his fellow officers were in active service in East Africa, and he had tried to resign several times, but the Indian government wouldn’t let him go. When we got to Rangoon a few months later, we were happy to hear that he had rejoined his regiment and was at the front. Ma-li-pa was a recently established "winter station" and would be abandoned in May when the troops returned to Lashio, a ten days' journey away. Comfortable barracks, cookhouses, and a hospital had been built next to a large area that had been cleared for a parade ground.

Captain Clive was in communication by heliograph with Lashio, at the end of the railroad, and received a résumé of world news two or three times a week. With mirrors during the day and lanterns at night messages were flashed from one mountain top to another and, under favorable conditions, reached Lashio in seven or eight hours.

Captain Clive was communicating by heliograph with Lashio, at the end of the railroad, and got a summary of world news two or three times a week. Using mirrors during the day and lanterns at night, messages were sent from one mountaintop to another and, under good conditions, arrived in Lashio in seven or eight hours.

We pitched our tents a short distance from the barracks in an open field, for there was no available shade. Although Captain Clive was perfectly satisfied with our passports and credentials he could not let us proceed until he had communicated with the Indian government by heliograph. The border was being guarded very closely to prevent German sympathizers from crossing into Burma from China and inciting the native tribes to rebellion.

We set up our tents not far from the barracks in an open field because there was no shade available. Even though Captain Clive was completely fine with our passports and credentials, he couldn't let us move forward until he reached out to the Indian government using a heliograph. The border was under strict surveillance to stop German sympathizers from crossing into Burma from China and stirring up the local tribes to rebel.

In December, 1915, a rather serious uprising among the Kachins in the Myitkyina district on the upper waters of the Irawadi River had been incited by a foreigner, I believe, and Clive had assisted in suppressing it. The Indian government was taking no further - 270 - chances and had given strict orders to arrest and hold anyone, other than a native, who crossed the border from China.

In December 1915, a fairly serious uprising among the Kachins in the Myitkyina district along the upper waters of the Irawadi River was sparked by a foreigner, I believe, and Clive helped put it down. The Indian government wasn’t taking any more chances and had issued strict orders to arrest and detain anyone who crossed the border from China, aside from locals. - 270 -

Very fortunately H. B. M. Consul-General Goffe at Yün-nan Fu had communicated with the Lieutenant-Governor of Burma concerning our Expedition and we consequently expected no trouble, but Captain Clive could not let us proceed until he had orders to do so from the Superintendent of the Northern Shan States. Through a delayed message this permission did not reach him for five days and in the meantime we made the most of the limited collecting resources which Ma-li-pa afforded.

Very fortunately, H. B. M. Consul-General Goffe at Yün-nan Fu had reached out to the Lieutenant-Governor of Burma regarding our Expedition, so we expected no trouble. However, Captain Clive couldn’t let us move forward until he got the go-ahead from the Superintendent of the Northern Shan States. Due to a delayed message, that permission didn’t get to him for five days, and in the meantime, we made the most of the limited collecting resources that Ma-li-pa offered.

Clive ordered his day like all the residents of Burma. He rose at six o'clock and after coffee and rolls had drill for two hours. At half past ten a heavy meal took the place of breakfast and tiffin; tea, with sandwiches and toast, was served at three o'clock, and dinner at eight. His company was composed of several different native tribes, and each religious caste had its own cook and water carrier, for a man of one caste could not prepare meals for men of another. It is an extraordinary system but one which appears to operate perfectly well under the adaptable English government. Certainly one of the great elements in the success of the British as colonizers is their respect for native customs and superstitions!

Clive organized his day like all the other residents of Burma. He got up at six o'clock, and after having coffee and rolls, he did drills for two hours. At half past ten, a substantial meal replaced breakfast and lunch; tea, along with sandwiches and toast, was served at three o'clock, and dinner was at eight. His group included several different native tribes, and each religious caste had its own cook and water carrier, because someone from one caste couldn’t prepare food for those from another. It’s an unusual system, but it seems to work perfectly well under the flexible English government. Surely, one of the key factors in the success of the British as colonizers is their respect for local customs and beliefs!

The company drilled splendidly and we were surprised to hear all commands given in English although none of the men could understand that language. This is done to enable British and Indian troops to maneuver together. Captain Clive, himself, spoke Hindustani to his officers. In the evening the men played football - 271 - on the parade ground and it seemed as though we had suddenly been transported into civilization on the magic carpet of the Arabian Nights.

The company practiced wonderfully, and we were surprised to hear all the commands given in English, even though none of the men understood that language. This is done to help British and Indian troops work together. Captain Clive himself spoke Hindustani to his officers. In the evening, the men played football on the parade ground, and it felt like we had suddenly been brought into civilization on a magic carpet from the Arabian Nights. - 271 -

Every morning we went shooting at daylight and returned about nine o'clock. Conditions were not favorable for small mammals and although we could undoubtedly have caught a few civets, mongooses, and cats we did not set a line of steel traps for we expected to leave at any time. Our attention was mostly devoted to bird collecting and we obtained about two hundred interesting specimens.

Every morning we went shooting at dawn and returned around nine o'clock. The conditions weren't great for small mammals and while we could have easily caught a few civets, mongooses, and cats, we didn’t set up a line of steel traps because we expected to leave at any moment. We mostly focused on bird collecting and ended up obtaining around two hundred interesting specimens.

We had our mid-morning meal each day with Captain Clive and he dined with us in the evening. He had brought with him from Lashio a large quantity of supplies and lived almost as well as he could have done at home. Although the days were very warm, the nights were cold and a camp fire was most acceptable.

We had our mid-morning meal each day with Captain Clive, and he dined with us in the evening. He brought a large quantity of supplies with him from Lashio and lived almost as well as he could have at home. Even though the days were very warm, the nights were cold, and a campfire was very welcome.

Captain Clive was on excellent terms with the Chinese authorities and, while we were there, a very old mandarin, blind and infirm, called to present his compliments. He had been an ardent sportsman and was especially interested in our guns; had we been willing to accept the commission he would have paid us the money then and there to purchase for him a Savage .250-.300 rifle like the one we were carrying. The old gentleman always had been very loyal to the British and had received several decorations for his services.

Captain Clive had a great relationship with the Chinese authorities, and during our stay, a very elderly mandarin, who was blind and frail, came to offer his respects. He had been a passionate sportsman and was particularly interested in our guns; if we had been willing to take the order, he would have paid us on the spot to buy him a Savage .250-.300 rifle like the one we had. The old gentleman had always been very loyal to the British and had received several awards for his service.

A few days after our arrival a half dead Chinaman crawled into camp with his throat terribly cut. He had been attacked by brigands only a few miles over the border and had just been able to reach Ma-li-pa. The company "compounder" took him in charge and, when Clive asked him about the patient, his evasive answers - 272 - were most amusing; like all Orientals he would not commit himself to any definite statement because he might "lose face" if his opinion proved to be wrong.

A few days after we got there, a nearly dead Chinese man crawled into camp with a terrible cut on his throat. He had been attacked by bandits just a few miles over the border and had barely managed to make it to Ma-li-pa. The company medic took charge of him, and when Clive asked about the patient, the medic's vague answers were quite amusing; like all Easterners, he wouldn’t commit to any definite statement because he might "lose face" if he turned out to be wrong. - 272 -

Captain Clive said to him, "Do you think the Chinaman will die?" Looking very judicial the native replied, "Sir, he may die, and yet, he may live." "But," said Clive, "he will probably die, won't he?" "Yes," was the answer, "and yet perhaps he will live." That was all the satisfaction he was able to get.

Captain Clive said to him, "Do you think the Chinaman will die?" Looking very serious, the native replied, "Sir, he may die, and yet, he may live." "But," said Clive, "he will probably die, won't he?" "Yes," was the answer, "and yet perhaps he will live." That was all the satisfaction he was able to get.

Clive told us of another native who formerly had been in his company. He had been transferred and one day the Captain met him in Rangoon. When asked if his pay was satisfactory the answer was typical, "Sir, it is good, but not s-o-o good!"

Clive told us about another local who used to be in his group. He had been reassigned, and one day the Captain ran into him in Rangoon. When asked if he was happy with his pay, the response was classic: "Sir, it’s good, but not s-o-o good!"

On the afternoon of our fourth day in Ma-li-pa a heliograph from Rangoon announced that "The Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum of Natural History is especially commended to His Majesty's Indian Government and permission is hereby granted to carry on its work in Burma wherever it may desire." This was only one of the many courtesies which we received from the British.

On the afternoon of our fourth day in Ma-li-pa, a heliograph from Rangoon announced that "The Asiatic Zoological Expedition of the American Museum of Natural History is highly recommended to His Majesty's Indian Government, and permission is granted to continue its work in Burma wherever it wants." This was just one of the many favors we received from the British.

The morning following the receipt of the heliogram we broke camp at daylight. When the last mule of the caravan had disappeared over the brown hills toward China we regretfully said farewell and rode away. If we are ever again made "prisoners of war" we hope our captor will be as delightful a gentleman as Captain Clive.

The morning after we got the telegram, we packed up our camp at dawn. When the last mule of the caravan vanished over the brown hills heading to China, we sadly said goodbye and rode off. If we ever end up "prisoners of war" again, we hope our captor will be as charming a guy as Captain Clive.

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CHAPTER XXXIII

HUNTING PEACOCKS ON THE SALWEEN RIVER

From Ma-li-pa we traveled almost due north to the Salween River. The country through which we passed was a succession of dry treeless hills, brown and barren and devoid of animal life. On the evening of the third day we reached the Salween at a ferry a few miles from the village of Changlung where the river begins its great bend to the eastward and sweeps across the border from China into Burma.

From Ma-li-pa, we traveled almost straight north to the Salween River. The landscape we crossed was a series of dry, treeless hills, brown, barren, and empty of wildlife. On the evening of the third day, we arrived at the Salween at a ferry a few miles from the village of Changlung, where the river begins its significant curve to the east and flows across the border from China into Burma.

The stream has cut a tremendous gorge for itself through the mountains and the sides are so precipitous that the trail doubles back upon itself a dozen times before it reaches the river 3,500 feet below. The upper half of the gorge is bare or thinly patched with trees, but in the lower part the grass is long and rank and a thin dry jungle straggles along the water's edge. The Salween at this point is about two hundred yards wide, but narrows to half that distance below the ferry and flows in a series of rapids between rocky shores.

The stream has carved out an incredible gorge through the mountains, with steep sides that cause the trail to loop back on itself multiple times before reaching the river 3,500 feet below. The upper half of the gorge is mostly bare or sparsely covered with trees, but in the lower section, the grass is tall and overgrown, and a sparse, dry jungle stretches along the water's edge. At this point, the Salween is about two hundred yards wide, but narrows to half that width below the ferry and rushes through a series of rapids between rocky banks.

The valley is devoid of human life except for three boatmen who tend the ferry, but the deserted rice fields along a narrow shelf showed evidence of former cultivation. On the slopes far up the side of the cañon is a Miao village, a tribe which we had not seen before. Probably the valley is too unhealthy for any natives to live close to the water's edge and, even at the time of - 274 - our visit in early March, the heated air was laden with malaria.

The valley is empty of people except for three boatmen who run the ferry, but the abandoned rice fields along a narrow ledge showed signs of past farming. On the slopes high up the canyon side is a Miao village, a tribe we hadn't encountered before. It's likely the valley is too unhealthy for any locals to live near the water's edge, and even during our visit in early March, the warm air was heavy with malaria. - 274 -

The ferrymen were stupid fellows, half drugged with opium, and assured us that there were no mammals near the river. They admitted that they sometimes heard peacocks and, while our tents were being pitched on a steep sand bank beneath a giant tree, the weird catlike call of a peacock echoed up the valley. It was answered by another farther down the river, and the report of my gun when I fired at a bat brought forth a wild "pe-haun," "pe-haun," "pe-haun" from half a dozen places.

The ferrymen were clueless guys, half out of it from opium, and they told us there were no mammals near the river. They did admit that they sometimes heard peacocks, and while our tents were being set up on a steep sandy bank under a massive tree, the strange cat-like call of a peacock echoed up the valley. Another one responded from farther down the river, and when I shot at a bat, my gunshot triggered a wild "pe-haun," "pe-haun," "pe-haun" from several places nearby.

The ferry was a raft built of long bamboo poles lashed together with vines and creepers. It floated just above the surface and was half submerged when loaded. The natives used a most extraordinary contrivance in place of oars. It consisted of a piece of tightly woven bamboo matting three feet long and two feet wide at right angles to which was fastened a six-foot handle. With these the men nonchalantly raked the water toward them from the bow and stem when they had poled the raft well into the current. The invested capital was not extensive, for when the ferry or "propellers" needed repairs a few hours' work in the jungle sufficed to build an entirely new outfit.

The ferry was a raft made of long bamboo poles tied together with vines and creepers. It floated just above the surface and was half submerged when it was loaded. The locals used a really unique device instead of oars. It was a piece of tightly woven bamboo matting that was three feet long and two feet wide, to which a six-foot handle was attached at a right angle. With these, the men casually raked the water toward themselves from the front and back once they had navigated the raft well into the current. The initial investment wasn’t much, since when the ferry or "propellers" needed repairs, just a few hours of work in the jungle was enough to create a completely new setup.

All of the peacocks were on the opposite side of the river from our camp where the jungle was thickest. On the first morning my wife and I floated down the river on the raft for half a mile and landed to stalk a peacock which had called frequently from a rocky point near the water's edge. We picked our way through the jungle with the utmost caution but the wary old cock either saw or heard us before we were within range, - 275 - and I caught just a glimpse of a brilliant green neck as he disappeared into the bushes. A second bird called on a point a half mile farther on, but it refused to come into the open and as we started to stalk it in the jungle we heard a patter of feet among the dry leaves followed by a roar of wings, and saw the bird sail over the tree tops and alight on the summit of a bush-clad hill.

All the peacocks were on the opposite side of the river from our campsite where the jungle was thickest. On the first morning, my wife and I floated down the river on the raft for half a mile and landed to track a peacock that had called frequently from a rocky spot near the water's edge. We picked our way through the jungle with great caution, but the wary old bird either saw or heard us before we got within range, and I caught just a glimpse of a brilliant green neck as he disappeared into the bushes. A second bird called from a point half a mile further on, but it wouldn’t come into the open, and as we started to stalk it through the jungle, we heard a patter of feet among the dry leaves followed by a roar of wings, and we saw the bird soar over the treetops and land on the top of a bush-covered hill. - 275 -

This was the only peacock which we were ever able to flush when it had already gained cover. Usually the birds depend entirely upon their ability to hide or run through the bushes. After several attempts we learned that it was impossible to stalk the peacocks successfully. The jungle was so crisp and parched that the dry leaves crackled at every step and even small birds made a loud noise while scratching on the ground.

This was the only peacock we ever managed to flush out after it had already found cover. Typically, these birds rely completely on their ability to hide or run through the bushes. After several tries, we realized that it was impossible to approach the peacocks without being noticed. The jungle was so dry and brittle that the leaves crackled with every step, and even small birds made a lot of noise while scratching at the ground.

The only way to get the peacocks was to watch for them at the river when they came to drink in the early morning and evening. Between two rocky points where we had first seen the birds there was a long curved beach of fine white sand. One morning Heller waited on the point nearest camp while my wife and I posted ourselves under a bush farther down the river. We had been sitting quietly for half an hour when we heard a scratching in the jungle. Thinking it was a peacock feeding we turned our backs to the water and sat motionless peering beneath the bushes. Meanwhile, Heller witnessed an interesting little drama enacted behind us.

The only way to spot the peacocks was to watch for them at the river when they came to drink early in the morning and in the evening. Between two rocky points where we had first seen the birds, there was a long, curved beach of fine white sand. One morning, Heller waited on the point closest to camp while my wife and I settled ourselves under a bush further down the river. We had been sitting quietly for half an hour when we heard scratching in the jungle. Thinking it was a peacock foraging, we turned our backs to the water and sat still, peering beneath the bushes. Meanwhile, Heller witnessed an interesting little drama unfold behind us.

An old male peacock with a splendid train stole around the point close to the water, jumped to a high stone within thirty yards of us and stood for a full minute craning its beautiful green neck to get a better view - 276 - as we kneeled in front of him totally unconscious of his presence. After he had satisfied his curiosity he hopped off the observation pinnacle and, with his body flattened close to the ground, slipped quietly away. It was an excellent example of the stalker being stalked and had Heller not witnessed the scene we should never have known how the clever old bird had fooled us.

An old male peacock with a stunning tail stole around the area near the water, jumped onto a high rock about thirty yards away from us, and stood there for a full minute, stretching its beautiful green neck to get a better look while we knelt in front of him completely unaware of his presence. Once he satisfied his curiosity, he hopped off the high spot and, with his body flat against the ground, quietly slipped away. It was a perfect example of the stalker becoming the stalked, and if Heller hadn't seen it, we would never have known how the clever old bird had tricked us. - 276 -

The following morning we got a peahen at the same place. Heller had concealed himself in the bushes on one side of the point while I watched the other. Shortly after daylight an old female sailed out of the jungle on set wings and alighted at the water's edge. She saw Heller almost instantly, although he was completely covered by the vines, and started to fly, but he dropped her with a broken wing. Recovering herself, she darted around the rocky point only to meet a charge of B.B.'s from my gun. She was a beautiful bird with a delicate crown of slender feathers, a yellow and blue face patch and a green neck and back, but her plumes were short and inconspicuous when compared with those of the male.

The next morning, we spotted a peahen in the same spot. Heller had hidden himself in the bushes on one side of the point while I kept an eye on the other side. Soon after dawn, an old female flew out of the jungle and landed at the water's edge. She spotted Heller almost immediately, even though he was completely camouflaged by the vines, and she tried to take off, but he hit her with a broken wing. After regaining her composure, she darted around the rocky point only to be met with a spray of B.B.'s from my gun. She was a stunning bird with a delicate crown of slender feathers, a yellow and blue face patch, and a green neck and back, but her feathers were short and less noticeable compared to those of the male.

Probably these birds had never before been hunted but they were exceedingly shy and difficult to kill. Although they called more or less during the entire day and we could locate them exactly, they were so far back in the jungle that the crackling of the dry leaves made a stalk impossible. We tried to drive them but were unsuccessful, for the birds would never flush unless they happened to be in the open and cut off from cover. Apparently realizing that their brilliant plumage made them conspicuous objects, the birds relied entirely upon an actual screen of bushes and their wonderful sight and hearing to protect themselves from enemies.

Probably, these birds had never been hunted before, but they were extremely shy and hard to catch. Even though they called throughout the day and we could pinpoint their location, they were deep in the jungle, making it impossible to sneak up on them because of the crunching dry leaves. We tried to drive them out but had no luck; the birds only took off when they found themselves exposed and separated from their cover. It seemed that they understood their bright feathers made them easy to see, so they depended entirely on the dense bushes around them and their exceptional sight and hearing to stay safe from predators.

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They usually came to the river to drink very early in the morning and just before dusk in the afternoon, but on cloudy days they might appear at almost any hour. If undisturbed they would remain near the water's edge for a considerable time or strut about the sand beach just at the edge of the jungle. At the sound of a gun or any other loud sharp noise the peacocks would answer with their mournful catlike wail, exactly as the domesticated birds will do.

They typically came to the river to drink very early in the morning and just before sunset in the afternoon, but on cloudy days, they might show up at almost any time. If they weren't disturbed, they would hang out near the water's edge for quite a while or stroll around the sandy beach right at the jungle's edge. At the sound of a gun or any other loud, sharp noise, the peacocks would respond with their sad, cat-like wail, just like domesticated birds do.

The Chinese believe that the flesh of the peafowl is poison and our servants were horrified when they learned that we intended to eat it. They fully expected that we would not survive the night and, even when they saw we had experienced no ill effects, they could not be persuaded to touch any of it themselves. An old peacock is too tough to eat, but the younger birds are excellent and when stuffed with chestnuts and roasted they are almost the equal of turkey.

The Chinese think peafowl meat is toxic, and our staff was shocked when they found out we planned to eat it. They were convinced we wouldn't make it through the night, and even after they saw we were fine, they still wouldn’t touch it. An older peacock is too tough to eat, but the younger ones are great, and when stuffed with chestnuts and roasted, they’re nearly as good as turkey.

The species which we killed on the Salween River is the green peafowl (Pavo munticus) which inhabits Burma, Sumatra, Java, and the Malay Peninsula. Its neck is green, instead of purple, as is that of the common Indian peacock (Pavo cristatus), and it is said that it is the most beautiful bird of the world.

The species we hunted on the Salween River is the green peafowl (Pavo munticus), found in Burma, Sumatra, Java, and the Malay Peninsula. Its neck is green rather than purple like that of the common Indian peacock (Pavo cristatus), and it is considered the most beautiful bird in the world.

The long ocellated tail coverts called the "train" are dropped about August and the birds assume more simple barred plumes, but the molt is very irregular; usually the full plumage is resumed in March or even earlier. The train is, of course, an ornament to attract the female and, when a cock is strutting about with spread plumes, he sometimes makes a most peculiar rustling sound by vibrating the long feathers.

The long, eye-patterned tail feathers known as the "train" are shed around August, and the birds take on simpler, barred feathers, but the molting process is quite irregular; typically, they regain their full plumage by March or even earlier. The train, of course, serves as a decoration to attract females, and when a male is walking around with his feathers spread, he can create a strange rustling sound by vibrating the long feathers.

The eight or ten eggs are laid on the bare ground - 278 - under a bush in the dense jungle, are dull brownish white and nearly three inches long. The chicks are sometimes domesticated, but even when born in captivity, it is said they are difficult to tame and soon wander away. The birds are omnivorous, feeding on insects, grubs, reptiles, flower buds, young shoots, and grain.

The eight or ten eggs are laid on the bare ground - 278 - under a bush in the dense jungle, are dull brownish-white and nearly three inches long. The chicks are sometimes domesticated, but even when raised in captivity, they are said to be hard to tame and quickly drift away. The birds are omnivorous, eating insects, grubs, reptiles, flower buds, young shoots, and grain.

The common peafowl (Pavo cristatus) is a native of India, Ceylon, and Assam. It is held sacred by some religious castes and we saw dozens of the birds wandering about the grounds of the temples in Benares, Agra, and Delhi. Peafowl are said to be rather disagreeable pets because they often attack infirm persons and children and kill young poultry.

The common peafowl (Pavo cristatus) is native to India, Sri Lanka, and Assam. It is considered sacred by some religious groups, and we saw dozens of these birds roaming around the temple grounds in Varanasi, Agra, and Delhi. Peafowl are known to be somewhat unpleasant pets since they often attack frail individuals and children, and they can harm young poultry.

In some parts of Ceylon and India the birds are so abundant and easily killed that they do not furnish even passable sport, but in other places they are as wild and difficult to shoot as we found them to be on the Salween River. In India it is a universal belief among sportsmen that wherever peafowls are common, there tiger will be found.

In some areas of Sri Lanka and India, the birds are so plentiful and easy to hunt that they don't provide any decent sport, but in other regions, they're as wild and hard to shoot as we experienced on the Salween River. In India, sportsmen universally believe that wherever peafowls are common, tigers will also be found.

A very beautiful variety which seems to have arisen abruptly in domestication is the so-called "japanned" or black-shouldered peacock named Pavo nigripennis by Mr. Sclater. In some respects it is intermediate between P. munticus and P. cristatus and apparently "breeds true" but never has been found in a wild state. Albino specimens are by no means unusual and are a feature of many zoölogical gardens.

A very beautiful variety that seems to have emerged suddenly through domestication is the so-called “japanned” or black-shouldered peacock, named Pavo nigripennis by Mr. Sclater. In some ways, it is a mix between P. munticus and P. cristatus and apparently “breeds true,” but it has never been found in the wild. Albino specimens are quite common and are a highlight in many zoos.

Peacocks have been under domestication for many centuries and are mentioned in the Bible as having been imported into Palestine by Solomon; although the bird is referred to in mythology, the Greeks probably had but - 279 - little knowledge of it until after the conquests of Alexander.

Peacocks have been domesticated for many centuries and are mentioned in the Bible as having been brought to Palestine by Solomon. Although the bird appears in mythology, the Greeks probably knew very little about it until after Alexander's conquests. - 279 -

In the thick jungle only a few hundred yards from our camp on the Salween River I put up a silver pheasant (Euplocamus nycthemerus), one of the earliest known and most beautiful species of the family Phasianidæ. Its white mantle, delicately vermiculated with black, extends like a wedding veil over the head, back and tail, in striking contrast to the blue-black underparts, red cheek patches, and red legs.

In the dense jungle just a few hundred yards from our camp by the Salween River, I spotted a silver pheasant (Euplocamus nycthemerus), one of the earliest recognized and most beautiful species in the Phasianidæ family. Its white plumage, intricately patterned with black, drapes over its head, back, and tail like a wedding veil, creating a striking contrast with its blue-black underparts, red cheek patches, and red legs.

This bird was formerly pictured in embroidery upon the heart and back badges of the official dresses of civil mandarins to denote the rank of the wearer, and is found only in southern and western China. It is by no means abundant in the parts of Yün-nan which we visited and, moreover, lives in such dense jungle that it is difficult to find. The natives sometimes snare the birds and offer them for sale alive.

This bird used to be depicted in embroidery on the heart and back badges of civil mandarins' official attire to signify the wearer's rank, and it can only be found in southern and western China. It's not very common in the parts of Yün-nan that we visited, and on top of that, it lives in such thick jungle that it's hard to spot. The locals sometimes trap the birds and sell them alive.

We also saw monkeys at our camp on the Salween River, but were not successful in killing any. They were probably the Indian baboon (Macacus rhesus) and, for animals which had not been hunted, were most extraordinarily wild. They were in large herds and sometimes came down to the water to skip and dance along the sand and play among the rocks. The monkeys invariably appeared on the opposite side of the river from us and by the time we hunted up the boatmen and got the clumsy raft to the other shore the baboons had disappeared in the tall grass or were merrily running through the trees up the mountain-side.

We also saw monkeys at our camp by the Salween River, but we weren't able to catch any. They were probably Indian baboons (Macacus rhesus) and, for animals that had never been hunted, they were incredibly wild. They traveled in large groups and sometimes came down to the water to skip and dance on the sand and play among the rocks. The monkeys always showed up on the opposite side of the river from us, and by the time we gathered the boatmen and got the awkward raft to the other shore, the baboons had vanished into the tall grass or were happily running through the trees up the mountainside.

The valley was too dry to be a very productive trapping ground for either small or large mammals, but the birds were interesting and we secured a good many - 280 - species new to our collection. Jungle fowl were abundant and pigeons exceedingly so, but we saw no ducks along the river and only two cormorants.

The valley was too dry to be a very productive trapping ground for either small or large mammals, but the birds were interesting and we secured a good number of species new to our collection. Jungle fowl were abundant and pigeons were extremely plentiful, but we saw no ducks along the river and only two cormorants. - 280 characters

Very few natives crossed at the ferry during our stay, for it is a long way from the main road and the climb out of the gorge is too formidable to be undertaken if the Salween can possibly be crossed higher up where the valley is wide and shallow. While we were camped at the river the heat was most uncomfortable during the middle of the day and was but little mitigated by the wind which blew continually. During mid-summer the valley at this point must be a veritable furnace and doubtless reeks with fever. We slept under nets at night and in the early evening, while we were watching for peacocks, the mosquitoes were very troublesome.

Very few locals crossed at the ferry while we were there, since it's far from the main road and the climb out of the gorge is too tough to attempt when the Salween can be crossed higher up where the valley is wide and shallow. While we camped by the river, the heat was really uncomfortable during the hottest part of the day and was only slightly eased by the constant wind. In mid-summer, this valley must feel like a furnace and is probably filled with illness. We slept under nets at night, and in the early evening, while we were watching for peacocks, the mosquitoes were quite bothersome.

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CHAPTER XXXIV

THE GIBBONS OF HO-MU-SHU

It is a long hard climb out of the Salween valley. We left on March 24 and all day crawled up the steep sides on a trail which doubled back and forth upon itself like an endless letter S. From our camp at night the river was just visible as a thin green line several thousand feet below, and for the first time in days, we needed a charcoal fire in our tents.

It is a long, tough climb out of the Salween valley. We left on March 24 and spent the entire day crawling up the steep slopes on a trail that wound back and forth like an endless letter S. From our camp at night, the river was barely visible as a thin green line several thousand feet below, and for the first time in days, we needed a charcoal fire in our tents.

We were en route to Lung-ling, a town of considerable size, where there was a possibility that mail might be awaiting us in care of the mandarin. Although ordinarily a three days' journey, it was more than four days before we arrived, because I had a sharp attack of malaria shortly after leaving the Salween River and we had to travel half stages.

We were on our way to Lung-ling, a fairly large town, where there was a chance that mail might be waiting for us with the mandarin. Although it usually takes three days to get there, it took us over four days to arrive because I had a severe bout of malaria right after leaving the Salween River, and we had to travel in shorter segments.

When we were well out of the valley and at an altitude of 6,000 feet, we arrived at a Chinese town. Its dark evil-smelling houses, jammed together in a crowded mass, and the filthy streets swarming with ragged children and foot-bound women, were in unpleasant contrast to the charming little Shan villages which we had seen in the low country. The inhabitants themselves appeared to no better advantage when compared with their Shan neighbors, for their stares and insolent curiosity were almost unbearable.

When we were far from the valley and reached an altitude of 6,000 feet, we arrived at a Chinese town. Its dark, foul-smelling houses, crammed together in a tight cluster, and the dirty streets filled with ragged children and women with bound feet, were a stark contrast to the lovely little Shan villages we had seen in the lowlands. The locals themselves didn’t look any better compared to their Shan neighbors, as their stares and rude curiosity were almost intolerable.

The region between the Salween River at Changlung and Lung-ling is as uninteresting to the zoölogist - 282 - as it could possibly be, for the hills are dry and bare and devoid of animal life. Lung-ling is a typical Chinese town except that the streets are wide and it is not as dirty as usual. The mandarin was a jolly rotund little fellow who simulated great sympathy when he informed me that he had received no mail for us. We had left directions to have a runner follow us from Yung-chang and in the event that he did not find our camp to proceed to Lung-ling with the mail. We learned some weeks later that the runner had been frightened by brigands and had turned back long before he reached Meng-ting.

The area between the Salween River at Changlung and Lung-ling is as boring for a zoologist as it can be, since the hills are dry, bare, and lacking in animal life. Lung-ling is a typical Chinese town, except the streets are wide and it's not as dirty as usual. The mandarin was a cheerful, chubby little guy who pretended to be very sympathetic when he told me that he hadn’t received any mail for us. We had instructed that a runner follow us from Yung-chang, and if he didn’t find our camp, to go to Lung-ling with the mail. We found out weeks later that the runner had been scared off by bandits and turned back long before he reached Meng-ting.

We had heard from our mafus and other natives that black monkeys were to be found on a mountain pass not far from the village of Ho-mu-shu, on the main Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road and, as we were certain that they would prove to be gibbons, we decided to make that our next hunting camp. It was three stages from Lung-ling and, toward evening of the second day, we again descended to the Salween River.

We heard from our mafus and other locals that black monkeys were found on a mountain pass not far from the village of Ho-mu-shu, along the main Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road. Since we were sure they would turn out to be gibbons, we decided to set up our next hunting camp there. It was three stages from Lung-ling, and by the evening of the second day, we were back down by the Salween River.

The valley at this point is several miles wide and is so dry that the few shrubs and bushes seem to be parched and barely able to live. At the upper end a picturesque village is set among extensive rice fields. Although a few Chinese live there, its inhabitants are chiefly Shans who are in a transitory state and are gradually adopting Chinese customs. The houses are joined to each other in the Chinese way and are built of mud, thatched with straw. In shape as well as in composition they are quite unlike the dwellings of the southern Shans. The women wore cylindrical turbans, about eighteen inches high, which at a distance looked like silk hats, and the men were dressed in narrow trousers and jackets of Chinese - 283 - blue. I believe that some of the Shan women also had bound feet but of this I cannot be certain.

The valley here is several miles wide and so dry that the few shrubs and bushes look parched and barely able to survive. At the upper end, a charming village is nestled among vast rice fields. Although a few Chinese people live there, most of the inhabitants are Shans who are in a transitional phase and are slowly adopting Chinese customs. The houses are connected to each other in the Chinese style and are made of mud, thatched with straw. They are quite different in shape and materials from the homes of the southern Shans. The women wore cylindrical turbans about eighteen inches high, which from a distance resembled silk hats, while the men were dressed in narrow trousers and blue jackets in the Chinese style. I believe some of the Shan women also had bound feet, but I can’t be sure about that. 283

We camped on a little knoll under an enormous tree at the far end of the village street, and a short time after the tents were up we had a visit from the Shan magistrate. He was a dapper energetic little fellow wearing foreign dress and quite au courant with foreign ways. He even owned a breech-loading shotgun, and, before we left, sent to ask for shells. He presented us with the usual chickens and I returned several tins of cigarettes. He appeared to be quite a sportsman and directed us to a place on the mountain above the village where he said monkeys were abundant.

We set up camp on a small hill beneath a huge tree at the end of the village street, and shortly after finishing the tents, we were visited by the Shan magistrate. He was a sharp, energetic little guy dressed in foreign clothing, really in tune with international culture. He even had a breech-loading shotgun and, before we left, asked for some shells. He gifted us the usual chickens, and I gave him several cans of cigarettes in return. He seemed to be quite the sportsman and pointed us to a spot on the mountain above the village, where he claimed there were plenty of monkeys.

We left early in the morning with a guide and, after a hard climb, arrived at a little village near the forest to which the magistrate had directed us. Not only did the natives assure us that they had never seen monkeys but we discovered for ourselves that the only water was more than a mile away, and that camping there was out of the question.

We headed out early in the morning with a guide, and after a tough climb, we reached a small village near the forest where the magistrate had sent us. Not only did the locals tell us they had never seen monkeys, but we also found out that the only water source was over a mile away, making it impossible to camp there.

The next day, April 1, we went on to Ho-mu-shu. It is a tiny village built into the mountain-side with hardly fifty yards of level ground about it, but commanding a magnificent view over the Salween valley. Although we reached there at half past two in the afternoon the mafus insisted on camping because they swore that there was no water within fifty li up the mountain. Very unwillingly I consented to camp and the next morning found, as usual, that the mafus had lied for there was a splendid camping place with good water not two hours from Ho-mu-shu. It was useless to rage for the Chinese have no scruples about honesty in such small matters, and the head mafu blandly admitted that he - 284 - knew there was a camping place farther on but that he was tired and wanted to stop early.

The next day, April 1, we moved on to Ho-mu-shu. It’s a small village built into the mountainside with barely fifty yards of flat ground around it, but it offers a stunning view over the Salween valley. Even though we arrived at half past two in the afternoon, the mafus insisted on setting up camp because they claimed there was no water within fifty li up the mountain. Reluctantly, I agreed to camp, and the next morning I discovered, as usual, that the mafus had lied because there was a great camping spot with plenty of water not two hours from Ho-mu-shu. It was pointless to get angry, since the Chinese have no qualms about honesty in such trivial matters, and the head mafu casually admitted that he knew there was a camping area further on but that he was tired and wanted to stop early. - 284 -

As we gained the summit of the ridge we were greeted with a ringing "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa," from the forest five hundred feet below us; they were the calls of gibbons, without a doubt, but strikingly unlike those of the Nam-ting River. We decided to camp at once and, after considerable prospecting, chose a flat place beside the road. It was by no means ideal but had the advantage of giving us an opportunity to hunt from either side of the ridge which for its entire length was scarcely two hundred feet in width. The sides fell away for thousands of feet in steep forest-clad slopes and, as far as our eyes could reach, wave after wave of mountains rolled outward in a great sea of green.

As we reached the top of the ridge, we were met with a loud "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa," coming from the forest five hundred feet below us; those were definitely the calls of gibbons, but they sounded quite different from those around the Nam-ting River. We decided to set up camp immediately and, after searching for a while, picked a flat spot next to the road. It wasn't exactly perfect, but it did give us a chance to hunt on either side of the ridge, which was barely two hundred feet wide along its entire length. The sides dropped away steeply for thousands of feet, covered in forest, and as far as we could see, endless waves of mountains stretched out in a vast sea of green.

Our camp would have been delightful except for the wind which swept across the pass night and day in an unceasing gale. My wife and I set a line of traps along a trail which led down the north side of the ridge, while Heller chose the opposite slope. We were entranced with the forest. The trees were immense spreading giants with interlaced branches that formed a solid roof of green 150 feet above the soft moss carpet underneath. Every trunk was clothed in a smothering mass of vines and ferns and parasitic plants and, from the lower branches, thousands of ropelike creepers swayed back and forth with every breath of wind. Below, the forest was fairly open save for occasional patches of dwarf bamboo, but the upper canopy was so close and dense that even at noon there was hardly more than a somber twilight beneath the trees.

Our camp would have been lovely if it wasn't for the wind that blew across the pass day and night in an endless gale. My wife and I set up a line of traps along a trail that went down the north side of the ridge, while Heller picked the opposite slope. We were mesmerized by the forest. The trees were massive, towering giants with interwoven branches that created a solid roof of green 150 feet above the soft mossy ground below. Every trunk was covered in a thick mass of vines, ferns, and parasitic plants, and from the lower branches, thousands of rope-like creepers swayed back and forth with each gust of wind. Below, the forest was relatively open except for occasional patches of dwarf bamboo, but the upper canopy was so close and dense that even at noon, there was barely more than a gloomy twilight beneath the trees.

Our first night on the pass was spent in a terrific gale which howled up the valley from the south and swept - 285 - across the ridge in a torrent of wind. The huge trees around us bent and tossed, and our tents seemed about to be torn to shreds. Amid the crashing of branches and the roar of the wind it was impossible to hear each other speak and sleep was out of the question. We lay in our bags expecting every second to have the covering torn from above our heads, but the tough cloth held, and at midnight the gale began to lull. In the morning the sun was out in a cloudless sky but the wind never ceased entirely on the pass even though there was a breathless calm among the trees a few hundred feet below.

Our first night on the pass was spent in a brutal windstorm that howled up the valley from the south and rushed across the ridge in a torrent of air. The massive trees around us bent and swayed, and our tents felt like they were about to be shredded. With the crashing of branches and the roar of the wind, it was impossible to hear each other speak, and sleep was out of the question. We lay in our sleeping bags, expecting at any moment to have the covering torn from above our heads, but the tough fabric held, and by midnight, the wind started to die down. In the morning, the sun shone in a clear sky, but the wind never completely stopped on the pass, even though there was a stillness among the trees a few hundred feet below.

My wife and I had just returned from inspecting our line of traps about nine o'clock in the morning when the forest suddenly resounded with the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa" of the gibbons. It seemed a long way off at first, but sounded louder and clearer every minute. At the first note we seized our guns and dashed down the mountain-side, slipping, stumbling, and falling. The animals were in the giant forest about five hundred feet below the summit of the ridge and as we neared them we moved cautiously from tree to tree, going forward only when they called. It was one of the most exciting stalks I have ever made, for the wild, ringing howls seemed always close above our heads.

My wife and I had just come back from checking our traps around nine in the morning when the forest suddenly filled with the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa" of the gibbons. It sounded far away at first, but got louder and clearer with each passing minute. As soon as we heard the first call, we grabbed our guns and ran down the mountain, slipping, stumbling, and falling. The animals were in the vast forest about five hundred feet below the ridge’s peak, and as we got closer, we moved carefully from tree to tree, advancing only when they called out. It was one of the most thrilling hunts I've ever had, as the wild, echoing howls seemed to be right above us.

We were still a hundred yards away when a huge black monkey leaped out of a tree top just as I stepped from behind a bush, and he saw me instantly. For a full half minute he hung suspended by one arm, his round head thrust forward staring intently; then launching himself into the air as though shot from a catapult he caught a branch twenty feet away, swung to another, and literally flew through the tree tops. Without a sound save the - 286 - swish of the branches and splash after splash in the leaves, the entire herd followed him down the hill. It was out of range for the shotgun and my wife was ten feet behind me with the rifle, but had I had it in my hand I doubt if I could have hit one of those flying balls of fur.

We were still a hundred yards away when a huge black monkey jumped out of a treetop just as I stepped out from behind a bush, and he spotted me right away. For a full thirty seconds, he hung there by one arm, his round head pushed forward, staring intently; then, as if shot from a catapult, he launched himself into the air, caught a branch twenty feet away, swung to another, and practically flew through the treetops. Without a sound except for the rustling branches and splash after splash in the leaves, the entire herd followed him down the hill. It was out of range for the shotgun, and my wife was ten feet behind me with the rifle, but even if I had it in my hand, I doubt I could have hit one of those flying balls of fur.

We returned to camp with sorrow in our hearts, but two days later we redeemed ourselves and brought in the first new gibbons. We were sitting on a bed of fragrant pine needles watching for a squirrel which had been chattering in the upper branches of a giant tree, when suddenly the wild call of the monkeys echoed up the mountain-side.

We returned to camp feeling sad, but two days later we made up for it by bringing in the first new gibbons. We were sitting on a bed of fragrant pine needles, waiting for a squirrel that had been chattering in the upper branches of a giant tree, when suddenly, the wild call of the monkeys echoed up the mountainside.

They were far away to the left, and we ran toward them, stumbling and slipping on the moss-covered rocks and logs, the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa" sounding louder every moment. They seemed almost under us at times and we would stand motionless and silent only to hear the howls die away in the distance. At last we located them on the precipitous side of a deep gorge filled with an impenetrable jungle of palms and thorny plants. It was an impossible place to cross, and we sat down, irresolute and discouraged. In a few moments a chorus of howls broke out and we saw the big black apes swinging along through the trees, two hundred yards away. Finally they stopped and began to feed. They were small marks at that distance but I rested my little Mannlicher on a stump and began to shoot while Yvette watched them with the glasses. One big fellow swung out on a branch and hung with one arm while he picked a cluster of leaves with the other. Yvette saw my first shot cut a twig above his head but he did not move, and at the roar of the second he dropped - 287 - heavily into the vines below. A brown female ran along the branch a few seconds later and peered down into the jungle where the first monkey had fallen. I covered her carefully with the ivory head of the front sight, pulled the trigger, and she pitched headlong off the tree.

They were far off to the left, and we ran toward them, stumbling and slipping on the mossy rocks and logs, the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa" getting louder with each moment. At times, they seemed almost directly below us, and we would stand still and silent only to hear the howls fade away in the distance. Eventually, we spotted them on the steep side of a deep gorge filled with a dense jungle of palms and thorny plants. It was an impossible place to cross, and we sat down, uncertain and discouraged. After a few moments, a chorus of howls erupted, and we saw the big black apes swinging through the trees, two hundred yards away. Finally, they stopped and began to feed. They looked like small marks at that distance, but I rested my little Mannlicher on a stump and started to shoot while Yvette watched them through the binoculars. One big guy swung out on a branch and hung with one arm while he grabbed a bunch of leaves with the other. Yvette saw my first shot hit a twig above his head, but he didn’t move, and when I fired the second shot, he dropped heavily into the vines below. A brown female ran along the branch a few seconds later and peered down into the jungle where the first monkey had fallen. I carefully aimed at her with the ivory head of the front sight, pulled the trigger, and she fell headfirst out of the tree.

For a few seconds there was silence, then a splash of leaves and three huge black males leaped into full view from the summit of a tall tree. They were silhouetted against a patch of sky and I fired twice in quick succession registering two clean misses. The bullets must have whizzed too close for comfort and they faded instantly into the forest like three black shadows.

For a few seconds, there was silence, then a splash of leaves and three large black males jumped into full view from the top of a tall tree. They were outlined against a patch of sky, and I shot twice in quick succession, missing both times. The bullets must have zipped by too close for comfort, and they quickly disappeared into the forest like three black shadows.

For ten minutes we strained our eyes into the dense foliage hoping to catch a glimpse of a swaying branch. Suddenly Yvette heard a rustling in the low tree beneath which we were sitting and seized me violently by the arm, screaming excitedly, "There's one, right above us. Quick, quick, he's going!"

For ten minutes, we squinted into the thick leaves, hoping to see a moving branch. Suddenly, Yvette heard something rustling in the low tree we were sitting under and grabbed my arm tightly, shouting with excitement, "There’s one, right above us. Hurry, hurry, he’s leaving!"

I looked up and could hardly believe my eyes for not twenty feet away hung a huge brown monkey half the size of a man. Almost in a daze I fired with the shotgun. The gibbon stopped, slowly pivoted on one long arm and a pair of eyes blazing like living coals, stared into mine. I fired again point blank as the huge mouth, baring four ugly fangs, opened and emitted a blood-curdling howl. The monkey slowly swung back again, its arm relaxed and the animal fell at my feet, stone dead.

I looked up and could hardly believe my eyes—just twenty feet away was a massive brown monkey, half the size of a man. Almost in a daze, I shot with the shotgun. The gibbon stopped, slowly turned on one long arm, and with eyes blazing like living coals, stared into mine. I shot again at point-blank range as the huge mouth, showing off four ugly fangs, opened and let out a chilling howl. The monkey slowly swung back again, its arm relaxed, and the animal fell at my feet, stone dead.

It was a magnificent old female. By a lucky chance we had chosen, from all the trees in the forest, to sit under the very one in which the gibbon had been hiding and she had tried to steal away unnoticed.

It was a magnificent old female. By a lucky chance, we had picked, out of all the trees in the forest, to sit under the very one where the gibbon had been hiding, and she had tried to slip away without being seen.

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While my wife waited to direct me from the rim of the gorge, I climbed down into the jungle to try and make my way up the opposite side where the other monkeys had fallen. It was dangerous work, for the rocks were covered with a thin layer of earth which supported a dense growth of vegetation. If I tried to let myself down a steep slope by clinging to a thick fern it would almost invariably strip away with a long layer of dirt and send me headlong.

While my wife waited to guide me from the edge of the gorge, I climbed down into the jungle to find a way up the other side where the other monkeys had fallen. It was risky work because the rocks were covered with a thin layer of dirt that supported a thick growth of plants. If I tried to lower myself down a steep slope by grabbing onto a thick fern, it would almost always pull away along with a long layer of dirt and send me tumbling.

After two bad falls I reached the bottom of the ravine where a mountain torrent leaped and foamed over the rocks and dropped in a beautiful cascade to a pool fifty or sixty feet below. The climb up the opposite side was more difficult than the descent and twice I had to return after finding the way impassable.

After two rough falls, I arrived at the bottom of the ravine where a mountain stream rushed and bubbled over the rocks, cascading down to a pool about fifty or sixty feet below. The climb up the other side was tougher than going down, and I had to turn back twice after finding the route blocked.

A sheer, clean wall almost seventy feet high separated me from the spot where the gibbons had fallen. I skirted the rock face and had laboriously worked my way around and above it when a vine to which I had been clinging stripped off and I began to slide. Faster and faster I went, dragging a mass of ferns and creepers with me, for everything I grasped gave way.

A sheer, clean wall almost seventy feet high separated me from the place where the gibbons had fallen. I navigated around the rock face and had slowly made my way up and above it when a vine I was holding onto broke and I started to slide. I went faster and faster, pulling a bunch of ferns and vines with me, as everything I grabbed gave way.

I thought it was the end of things for me because I was hardly ten feet above the precipice which fell away to the jagged rocks of the stream bed in a drop of seventy feet. The rifle slung to my back saved my life. Suddenly it caught on a tiny ragged ledge and held me flattened out against the cliff. But even then I was far from safe, as I realized when I tried to twist about to reach a rope of creepers which swung outward from a bush above my head.

I thought it was the end for me because I was barely ten feet above the edge, which dropped down to the jagged rocks of the stream bed in a seventy-foot fall. The rifle strapped to my back saved my life. Suddenly it got caught on a small, rough ledge and kept me pinned against the cliff. But even then I wasn't safe, as I found out when I tried to turn around to grab a rope of vines that hung down from a bush above my head.

A suspension bridge

Mrs. Andrews Feeding One of Our Bear Cubs

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How I managed to crawl back to safety among the trees I can remember only vaguely. I finally got down to the bottom of the cañon, but felt weak and sick and it was half an hour before I could climb up to the place where my wife was waiting. She was already badly frightened for she had not seen me since I left her an hour before and, when I answered her call, she was about to follow into the jungle where I had disappeared. We left the two monkeys to be recovered from above and went slowly back to camp.

How I managed to crawl back to safety among the trees is something I can only vaguely remember. I eventually made it down to the bottom of the canyon, but I felt weak and sick, and it took me half an hour to climb up to the spot where my wife was waiting. She was already really scared because she hadn’t seen me since I left her an hour earlier, and when I answered her call, she was about to go into the jungle where I had disappeared. We left the two monkeys to be retrieved from above and slowly made our way back to camp.

The gibbons of Ho-mu-shu are quite unlike those of the Nam-ting River. They represent a well-known species called the "hoolock" (Hylobates hoolock) which is also found in Burma.

The gibbons of Ho-mu-shu are very different from those of the Nam-ting River. They belong to a well-known species called the "hoolock" (Hylobates hoolock), which is also found in Burma.

The males, both old and young, are coal black with a fringe of white hairs about the face, and the females are light brown. Their note is totally unlike the Nam-ting River gibbons and, instead of sitting quietly in the top of a dead tree to call to their neighbors across the jungle for an hour or two, the hoolocks howl for about twenty minutes as they swing through the branches and are silent during the remainder of the day. They called most frequently on bright mornings and we seldom heard them during cloudy weather.

The males, both old and young, are jet black with a fringe of white hair around their faces, while the females are light brown. Their call is completely different from that of the Nam-ting River gibbons, and instead of sitting quietly at the top of a dead tree to communicate with their neighbors across the jungle for an hour or two, the hoolocks howl for about twenty minutes as they swing through the branches and stay silent for the rest of the day. They called most often on bright mornings, and we rarely heard them during cloudy weather.

Apparently they had regular feeding grounds, which were visited every day, but the herds seemed to cover a great deal of territory. Like the gibbons of the Nam-ting River, the hoolocks traveled through the tree tops at almost unbelievable speed, and one of the most amazing things which I have ever witnessed was the way in which they could throw themselves from one tree to another with unerring precision.

Apparently, they had regular feeding spots that they visited daily, but the herds seemed to roam a large area. Like the gibbons of the Nam-ting River, the hoolocks moved through the treetops at incredible speed, and one of the most astonishing things I've ever seen was how they could leap from one tree to another with perfect accuracy.

On April 5, we received the first mail in nearly three months and our share amounted to 105 letters besides a great quantity of magazines. Wu had ridden to Teng-yueh - 290 - for us and, as well as the greatly desired mail, had a basket of delicious vegetables and a sheaf of Renter's cablegrams which were kindly sent by Messrs. Palmer and Abertsen, gentlemen in the employ of the Chinese Customs, who had cared for our mail. Mr. Abertsen also sent a note telling us of a good hunting ground near Teng-yueh.

On April 5, we got our first mail in almost three months, which totaled 105 letters along with a ton of magazines. Wu had gone to Teng-yueh for us and, along with the eagerly awaited mail, he brought a basket of fresh vegetables and a bundle of cablegrams from Renter, kindly sent by Messrs. Palmer and Abertsen, two gentlemen working for the Chinese Customs who looked after our mail. Mr. Abertsen also included a note informing us about a good hunting spot near Teng-yueh. - 290 -

We spent an entire afternoon and evening over our letters and papers and, through them, began to get in touch with the world again. It is strange how little one misses the morning newspaper once one is beyond its reach and has properly adjusted one's mental perspective. And it is just as strange how essential it all seems immediately one is again within reach of such adjuncts of civilization.

We spent a whole afternoon and evening going through our letters and papers, and through them, we started reconnecting with the world. It’s funny how you don’t really miss the morning paper once you’re away from it and have adjusted your mindset. Yet, it’s equally strange how necessary it feels as soon as you’re back in the loop with those aspects of civilization.

On April 6, we had the first rain for weeks. The water fell in torrents, and the roar, as it drummed upon the tent, was so incessant that we could barely hear each other shout. Because of the long dry spell our camp had not been made with reference to weather and during the night I waked to find that we were in the middle of a pond with fifteen inches of water in the tent. Shoes, clothes, guns, and cameras were soaked, and the surface of the water was only an inch below the bottoms of our cots. This was the beginning of a ten days' rain after which we had six weeks of as delightful weather as one could wish.

On April 6, we experienced our first rain in weeks. The downpour was so heavy, and the sound as it pounded on the tent was so relentless that we could barely hear each other yell. Because of the long dry period, our camp had not been set up with the weather in mind, and during the night I woke up to find that we were in the middle of a pond with fifteen inches of water in the tent. Shoes, clothes, guns, and cameras were drenched, and the water was only an inch below the bottoms of our cots. This marked the start of ten days of rain, followed by six weeks of perfectly pleasant weather.

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CHAPTER XXXV

TENG-YUEH; A LINK WITH CIVILIZATION

TENG-YUEH; A CONNECTION WITH CIVILIZATION

After a week on the pass above Ho-mu-shu we shifted camp to a village called Tai-ping-pu, ten miles nearer Teng-yueh on the same road. The ride along the summit of the mountain was a delight, for we passed through grove after grove of rhododendrons in full blossom. The trees were sometimes thirty feet in height and the red flowers glowed like clusters of living coals among their dark green leaves. In the northern part of Yün-nan the rhododendrons grow above other timber line on mountains where it is too high even for spruces.

After a week on the pass above Ho-mu-shu, we moved our camp to a village called Tai-ping-pu, which is ten miles closer to Teng-yueh on the same road. The ride along the mountain summit was amazing as we passed through grove after grove of rhododendrons in full bloom. The trees sometimes reached thirty feet high, and the red flowers shimmered like clusters of living coal among their dark green leaves. In the northern part of Yün-nan, the rhododendrons grow above the timberline on mountains where it's too high even for spruces.

It rained continually during our stay at Tai-ping-pu. I had another attack of the Salween malaria and for five or six days could do little work. Heller, however, made good use of his time and killed a beautiful horned pheasant, Temminck's tragopan (Ceriornis temmincki), besides half a dozen langurs of the same species as those we had collected on the Nam-ting River. He also was fortunate in shooting one of the huge flying squirrels (Petaurista yunnanensis) which we had hoped to get at Wei-hsi. He saw the animal in the upper branches of a dead tree on the first evening we were in Tai-ping-pu but was not able to get a shot. The next night he watched the same spot and killed the squirrel with a charge of "fours." It measured forty-two and one-quarter inches from the nose to the end of the tail and was a rich mahogany red grizzled with whitish above; the - 292 - underparts were cream white. As in all flying squirrels, the four legs were connected by a sheet of skin called the "patagium" which is continuous with the body. This acts as a parachute and enables the animal to sail from tree to tree for, of course, it cannot fly like a bat As these huge squirrels are strictly nocturnal, they are not often seen even by the natives. We were told by the Lutzus on the Mekong River that by building huge fires in the woods they could attract the animals and shoot them with their crossbows.

It rained constantly during our time at Tai-ping-pu. I had another bout of Salween malaria and could barely work for five or six days. Heller, on the other hand, made the most of his time and shot a stunning horned pheasant, Temminck's tragopan (Ceriornis temmincki), along with half a dozen langurs of the same kind we had collected on the Nam-ting River. He also got lucky and shot one of the large flying squirrels (Petaurista yunnanensis) that we had hoped to find at Wei-hsi. He spotted the animal in the upper branches of a dead tree on our first evening in Tai-ping-pu but couldn't get a shot. The next night, he kept an eye on the same spot and took down the squirrel with a charge of "fours." It measured forty-two and a quarter inches from nose to tail and had a rich mahogany red color with white grizzles on top; the underparts were cream white. Like all flying squirrels, its four legs were connected by a flap of skin called the "patagium," which is continuous with its body. This acts like a parachute and allows the animal to glide from tree to tree, since it can't actually fly like a bat. Because these large squirrels are strictly nocturnal, they're not often seen, even by locals. The Lutzus on the Mekong River told us that by building huge fires in the woods, they could attract the animals and shoot them with their crossbows. - 292 -

A few weeks later we purchased a live flying squirrel from a native and kept it for several days in the hope that it might become tame. The animal was exceedingly savage and would grind its teeth angrily and spring at anyone who approached its basket. It could not be tempted to eat or drink and, as it was a valuable specimen, we eventually chloroformed it.

A few weeks later, we bought a live flying squirrel from a local and kept it for several days, hoping it would become tame. The animal was extremely aggressive, grinding its teeth in anger and lunging at anyone who got close to its basket. It wouldn't be tempted to eat or drink, and since it was a valuable specimen, we eventually put it down with chloroform.

Just below our camp in a pretty little valley a half dozen families of Lisos were living, and we hired the men to hunt for us. They were good-natured fellows, as all the natives of this tribe seem to be, and worked well. One day they brought in a fine muntjac buck which had been killed with their crossbows and poisoned darts. The arrows were about twelve inches long, made of bamboo and "feathered" with a triangular piece of the same wood. Those for shooting birds and squirrels were sharpened to a needle point, but the hunting darts were tipped with steel or iron. The poison they extracted from a plant, which I never saw, and it was said that it takes effect very rapidly.

Just below our camp in a lovely little valley, about six families of Lisos were living, and we hired the men to hunt for us. They were friendly guys, like all the natives of this tribe seem to be, and they worked hard. One day they brought back a nice muntjac buck that they had killed with their crossbows and poisoned darts. The arrows were about twelve inches long, made of bamboo and "feathered" with a triangular piece of the same wood. The ones for shooting birds and squirrels were sharpened to a needle point, but the hunting darts had steel or iron tips. The poison they got from a plant I never saw, and it was said to take effect very quickly.

The muntjac which the Lisos killed had been shot in the side with a single arrow and they assured us that only the flesh immediately surrounding the wound had - 293 - been spoiled for food. These natives like the Mosos, Lolos, and others carried their darts in a quiver made from the leg skin of a black bear, and none of the men wished to sell their weapons; I finally did obtain a crossbow and quiver for six dollars (Mexican).

The muntjac that the Lisos killed had been hit in the side with a single arrow, and they assured us that only the meat right around the wound was spoiled. These natives, like the Mosos, Lolos, and others, carried their darts

Two days before we left Tai-ping-pu, three of the Lisos guided my wife and me to a large cave where they said there was a colony of bats. The cavern was an hour's ride from camp, and proved to be in a difficult and dangerous place in the side of a cliff just above a swift mountain stream. We strung our gill net across the entrance and then sent one of the natives inside to stir up the animals while we caught them as they flew out. In less than half an hour we had twenty-eight big brown bats, but our fingers were cut and bleeding from the vicious bites of their needle-like teeth. They all represented a widely distributed species which we had already obtained at Yün-nan Fu.

Two days before we left Tai-ping-pu, three of the Lisos took my wife and me to a large cave where they said there was a bat colony. The cave was an hour's ride from camp and turned out to be in a tough and dangerous spot on the side of a cliff just above a fast mountain stream. We set up our gill net across the entrance and then sent one of the locals inside to stir up the bats while we caught them as they flew out. In less than half an hour, we had twenty-eight big brown bats, but our fingers were cut and bleeding from the nasty bites of their sharp teeth. They all represented a widely distributed species that we had already collected at Yün-nan Fu.

From Lung-ling I had sent a runner to Mr. Evans at Ta-li Fu asking him to forward to Teng-yueh the specimens which we had left in his care, and the day following our visit to the bat cave the caravan bearing our cases passed us at Tai-ping-pu. We, ourselves, were about ready to leave and two days later at ten o'clock in the morning we stood on a precipitous mountain summit, gazing down at the beautiful Teng-yueh plain which lay before us like a relief map. It is as flat as a plain well can be and, except where a dozen or more villages cluster on bits of dry land, the valley is one vast watery rice field. Far in the distance, outside the gray city walls, we could see two temple-like buildings surrounded by white-walled compounds, and - 294 - Wu told us they were the houses of the Customs officials.

From Lung-ling, I sent a runner to Mr. Evans at Ta-li Fu, asking him to send the specimens we had left with him to Teng-yueh. The day after our visit to the bat cave, the caravan carrying our cases passed us at Tai-ping-pu. We were getting ready to leave, and two days later at ten in the morning, we stood on a steep mountain peak, looking down at the beautiful Teng-yueh plain that stretched out before us like a relief map. It's as flat as a plain can be, and aside from where a dozen or more villages cluster on bits of dry land, the valley is one huge watery rice field. Far off in the distance, beyond the gray city walls, we could see two temple-like buildings surrounded by white-walled compounds, and Wu told us they were the residences of the Customs officials. - 294 -

Teng-yueh, although only given the rank of a "ting" or second-class Chinese city, is one of the most important places in the province, for it stands as the door to India. All the trade of Burma and Yün-nan flows back and forth through the gates of Teng-yueh, over the great caravan road to Bhamo on the upper Irawadi.

Teng-yueh, while only classified as a "ting" or second-class Chinese city, is one of the most significant locations in the province because it serves as the gateway to India. All the trade from Burma and Yün-nan moves in and out through the gates of Teng-yueh, along the major caravan route to Bhamo on the upper Irawadi.

An important post of the Chinese Foreign Customs, which are administered by the British government as security for the Boxer indemnity, is situated in this city, and we were looking forward with the greatest interest to meeting its white population. At the time of our visit the foreigners included Messrs. H. G. Fletcher and Ralph C. Grierson, respectively Acting Commissioner and Assistant Commissioner of Customs; Messrs. W. R. Palmer and Abertsen, also of the Customs; Mr. Eastes, H. B. M. Consul; Dr. Chang, Indian Medical Officer, and Reverend and Mrs. Embry of the China Inland Mission; Mr. Eastes, accompanied by the resident mandarin, was absent on a three months' opium inspection tour so that we did not meet him.

An important position of the Chinese Foreign Customs, managed by the British government as security for the Boxer indemnity, is located in this city, and we were eagerly looking forward to meeting its white population. At the time of our visit, the foreigners included Messrs. H. G. Fletcher and Ralph C. Grierson, the Acting Commissioner and Assistant Commissioner of Customs; Messrs. W. R. Palmer and Abertsen, also from Customs; Mr. Eastes, H. B. M. Consul; Dr. Chang, Indian Medical Officer, and Reverend and Mrs. Embry of the China Inland Mission; Mr. Eastes, who was away on a three-month opium inspection tour with the resident mandarin, so we didn’t get to meet him.

We reached Teng-yueh on Sunday morning and camped in a temple outside the city walls. Immediately after tiffin we called upon Mr. Grierson and went with him to the Customs House where Messrs. Abertsen and Palmer were living. We found there a Scotch botanist, Mr. Forrest, an old traveler in Yün-nan who was en route to A-tun-tzu on a three-year plant-hunting expedition for an English commercial firm. We had heard much of Forrest from Messrs. Kok and Hanna and were especially glad to meet him because of his - 295 - wide knowledge of the northwestern part of the province. Mr. Forrest was interested chiefly in primroses and rhododendrons, I believe, and in former years obtained a rather remarkable collection of these plants.

We arrived in Teng-yueh on Sunday morning and set up camp in a temple just outside the city walls. Right after lunch, we visited Mr. Grierson and went with him to the Customs House where Messrs. Abertsen and Palmer were staying. There, we met a Scottish botanist, Mr. Forrest, an experienced traveler in Yün-nan who was on his way to A-tun-tzu for a three-year plant-hunting expedition for a British commercial company. We had heard a lot about Forrest from Messrs. Kok and Hanna and were particularly pleased to meet him because of his extensive knowledge of the northwestern part of the province. Mr. Forrest was mainly interested in primroses and rhododendrons, I believe, and had previously collected a rather impressive array of these plants.

From Mr. Grierson we first learned that the United States had declared war on Germany. It had been announced only a week before, and the information had reached Teng-yueh by cable and telegraph almost immediately. It came as welcome news to us Americans who had been vainly endeavoring to justify to ourselves and others our country's lethargy in the face of Teuton insolence, and made us feel that once again we could acknowledge our nationality with the pride we used to feel.

From Mr. Grierson, we first learned that the United States had declared war on Germany. It had been announced just a week before, and the news reached Teng-yueh by cable and telegraph almost instantly. It came as great news to us Americans who had been trying hard to justify to ourselves and others our country's inaction in the face of German aggression, and made us feel that once again we could embrace our nationality with the pride we used to feel.

On Monday Mr. Grierson invited us to become his guests and to move our caravan and belongings to his beautiful home. We were charmed with it and our host. The house was built with upturned, temple-like gables, and from his cool verandah we could look across an exquisite flower-filled garden to the blue mountains from which we had had our first view of Teng-yueh the day before. The interior of the dwelling was as attractive as its surroundings, and the beautifully served meals were as varied and dainty as one could have had in the midst of a great city.

On Monday, Mr. Grierson invited us to be his guests and to move our caravan and belongings to his stunning home. We were enchanted by both the house and our host. The house featured elevated, temple-like gables, and from his cool veranda, we could gaze across a gorgeous, flower-filled garden toward the blue mountains, which had given us our first view of Teng-yueh the day before. The inside of the house was just as appealing as its exterior, and the elegantly served meals were as diverse and exquisite as anything you could find in a big city.

Like all Britishers, the Customs men had carried their sport with them. Just beyond the city walls an excellent golf course had been laid out with Chinese graves as bunkers, and there was a cement tennis court behind the Commissioner's house. Mr. Grierson had two excellent polo ponies, besides three trained pointer dogs, and riding and shooting over the beautiful hills gave him an almost ideal life. We found that Mr. Fletcher - 296 - had a really remarkable selection of records and an excellent Victrola. After dinner, as we listened to the music, we had only to close our eyes and float back to New York and the Metropolitan Opera House on the divine harmony of the sextet from "Lucia" or Caruso's matchless voice. But none of us wished to be there in body for more than a fleeting visit at least, and the music already brought with it a lingering sadness because our days in the free, wild mountains of China were drawing to a close.

Like all Brits, the Customs officers took their hobbies with them. Just outside the city walls, there was a fantastic golf course, featuring Chinese graves as bunkers, and a cement tennis court behind the Commissioner's house. Mr. Grierson had two great polo ponies and three trained pointer dogs, and riding and shooting in the stunning hills gave him an almost perfect life. We discovered that Mr. Fletcher had an impressive collection of records and a top-notch Victrola. After dinner, as we listened to the music, all we had to do was close our eyes and be transported back to New York and the Metropolitan Opera House with the beautiful harmonies of the sextet from "Lucia" or Caruso's incredible voice. However, none of us wanted to be there physically for more than a brief visit, and the music already carried a bittersweet feeling since our days in the free, wild mountains of China were coming to an end.

During the week we spent with Mr. Grierson we dried and packed all our specimens in tin-lined boxes which were purchased from the agent of the British American Tobacco Company in Teng-yueh. They were just the right size to carry on muleback and, after the birds and mammals had been wrapped in cotton and sprinkled with naphthalene, the cases were soldered and made air tight. The most essential thing in sending specimens of any kind through a moist, tropical climate such as India is to have them perfectly dry before the boxes are sealed; otherwise they will arrive at their destination covered with mildew and absolutely ruined.

During the week we spent with Mr. Grierson, we dried and packed all our specimens in tin-lined boxes that we bought from the agent of the British American Tobacco Company in Teng-yueh. They were just the right size to transport on muleback, and after wrapping the birds and mammals in cotton and sprinkling them with naphthalene, the cases were soldered shut to make them airtight. The most important thing when sending specimens of any kind through a humid, tropical climate like India is to ensure they are completely dry before sealing the boxes; otherwise, they will arrive at their destination covered in mildew and completely ruined.

On the day of our arrival in Teng-yueh we purchased from a native two bear cubs (Ursus tibetanus) about a week old. Each was coal black except for a V-shaped white mark on the breast and a brown nose. When they first came to us they were too young to eat and we fed them diluted condensed milk from a spoon.

On the day we arrived in Teng-yueh, we bought two bear cubs (Ursus tibetanus) that were about a week old from a local. Each was pitch black except for a V-shaped white mark on their chest and a brown nose. When they first came to us, they were too young to eat solid food, so we fed them diluted condensed milk from a spoon.

The little chaps were as playful as kittens and the story of their amusing ways as they grew older is a book in itself. After a month one of the cubs died, leaving great sorrow in the camp; the other not only lived and flourished but traveled more than 16,000 miles.

The little guys were as playful as kittens, and the story of their funny antics as they grew up could fill a book. After a month, one of the cubs died, leaving everyone in the camp heartbroken; the other not only survived but thrived, traveling over 16,000 miles.

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He went with us on a pack mule to Bhamo, down the Irawadi River to Rangoon, and across the Bay of Bengal to Calcutta. He then visited many cities in India, and at Bombay boarded the P. & O. S. S. Namur for Hongkong and became the pet of the ship. From China we took him to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver, and finally to our home at Lawrence Park, Bronxville, New York. After an adventurous career as a house pet, when his exploits had made him famous and ourselves disliked by all the neighbors, we regretfully sent him to the National Zoölogical Park, Washington, D. C, where he is living happily at the present time. He was the most delightful little pet we have ever owned and, although now he is nearly a full grown bear, his early life is perpetuated in motion pictures and we can see him still as he came to us the first week. He might well have been the model for the original "Teddy Bear" for he was a round ball of fur, mostly head and ears and sparkling little eyes.

He traveled with us on a pack mule to Bhamo, then down the Irawadi River to Rangoon, and across the Bay of Bengal to Calcutta. After that, he visited many cities in India, and in Bombay, he boarded the P. & O. S. S. Namur for Hongkong and became the favorite of everyone on the ship. From China, we took him to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver, and finally to our home in Lawrence Park, Bronxville, New York. After an adventurous life as a house pet, which made him famous and us unpopular with the neighbors, we reluctantly sent him to the National Zoölogical Park in Washington, D.C., where he is living happily now. He was the most delightful little pet we’ve ever had, and even though he’s nearly a full-grown bear now, his early life is captured in motion pictures, and we can still see him as he was when he first came to us. He could have easily been the model for the original "Teddy Bear" because he was a round ball of fur, mostly head and ears, with sparkling little eyes.

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CHAPTER XXXVI

A BIG GAME PARADISE

A Grand Gaming Paradise

A few months previous to our arrival, Mr. Abertsen had discovered a splendid hunting ground near the village of Hui-yao, about eighty li from Teng-yueh. He had been shooting rabbits and pheasants and, while passing through the village, the natives told him that a large herd of gnai-yang or "wild goats" lived on the side of a hill through which a branch of the Shweli River had cut a deep gorge.

A couple months before we got there, Mr. Abertsen found a great hunting spot near the village of Hui-yao, about eighty li from Teng-yueh. He had been hunting rabbits and pheasants when, while walking through the village, the locals told him that a large herd of gnai-yang or "wild goats" lived on the side of a hill that a branch of the Shweli River had carved into a deep gorge.

Although Abertsen was decidedly skeptical as to the accuracy of the report he spent two days hunting and with his shotgun killed two gorals; moreover, he saw twenty-five others. We examined the two skins and realized at once that they represented a different species from those of the Snow Mountain. Therefore, when we left Teng-yueh our first camp was at Hui-yao.

Although Abertsen was quite doubtful about the accuracy of the report, he spent two days hunting and managed to shoot two gorals with his shotgun; additionally, he spotted twenty-five more. We looked over the two skins and immediately recognized that they were a different species from those found in the Snow Mountain. So, when we left Teng-yueh, our first camp was at Hui-yao.

Heller and I started with four natives shortly after daylight. We crossed a tumble-down wooden bridge over the river at a narrow cañon where the sides were straight walls of rock, and followed down the gorge for about two miles. On the way Heller, who was in front, saw two muntjac standing in the grass on an open hillside, and shot the leader. The deer pitched headlong but got to its feet in a few moments and struggled off into the thick cover at the edge of the meadow. It had disappeared before Heller reached the clearing but he saw the second deer, a fine doe, standing on a rock. - 299 - Although his bullet passed through both lungs the animal ran a quarter of a mile, and he finally discovered her several hours later in the bushes beside the river.

Heller and I headed out with four locals shortly after dawn. We crossed a rickety wooden bridge over the river at a narrow canyon where the rock walls were steep, and we followed the gorge for about two miles. Along the way, Heller, who was in front, spotted two muntjac standing in the grass on a hillside and shot the leader. The deer fell but quickly got back up and struggled off into the dense cover at the edge of the meadow. It vanished before Heller reached the clearing, but he saw the second deer, a beautiful doe, standing on a rock. - 299 - Even though his bullet passed through both lungs, the animal ran a quarter of a mile, and he eventually found her several hours later in the bushes by the river.

In a short time we reached an open hillside which rose six or seven hundred feet above the river in a steep slope; the opposite side was a sheer wall of rock bordered on the rim by an open pine forest. We separated at this point. Heller, with two natives, keeping near the river, while I climbed up the hill to work along the cliffs half way to the summit.

In no time, we arrived at an open hillside that rose about six or seven hundred feet above the river at a steep angle; the other side was a sheer rock wall, topped by an open pine forest. At this point, we split up. Heller stayed near the river with two locals, while I hiked up the hill to explore along the cliffs halfway to the top.

In less than ten minutes Heller heard a loud snort and, looking up, saw three gorals standing on a ledge seventy-five yards above him. He fired twice but missed and the animals disappeared around a corner of the hill. A few hundred yards farther on he saw a single old ram but his two shots apparently had no effect.

In less than ten minutes, Heller heard a loud snort and, looking up, saw three gorals standing on a ledge seventy-five yards above him. He fired twice but missed, and the animals disappeared around a corner of the hill. A few hundred yards farther on, he saw a single old ram, but his two shots apparently had no effect.

Meanwhile I had continued along the hillside not far from the summit for a mile or more without seeing an animal. Fresh tracks were everywhere and well-cut trails crossed and recrossed among the rocks and grass. I had reached an impassable precipice and was returning across a steep slope when seven gorals jumped out of the grass where they had been lying asleep. I was in a thick grove of pine trees and fired twice in quick succession as the animals appeared through the branches, but missed both times.

Meanwhile, I had continued along the hillside not far from the summit for a mile or more without spotting any animals. Fresh tracks were everywhere, and well-defined trails crisscrossed among the rocks and grass. I had come to an impassable cliff and was making my way back across a steep slope when seven gorals jumped out of the grass where they had been resting. I was deep in a thick grove of pine trees and fired twice in quick succession as the animals came into view through the branches, but I missed both times.

I ran out from the trees but the gorals were then nearly two hundred yards away. One big ram had left the herd and was trotting along broadside on. I aimed just in front of him and pulled the trigger as his head appeared in the peep sight. He turned a beautiful somersault and rolled over and over down the hill, finally disappearing in the bushes at the edge of the water.

I dashed out from the trees, but the gorals were almost two hundred yards away. One big ram had separated from the herd and was moving along sideways. I aimed just ahead of him and pulled the trigger as his head came into view in the peep sight. He executed a stunning somersault and tumbled down the hill, eventually vanishing into the bushes at the water's edge.

- 300 -

The other gorals had disappeared, but a few seconds later I saw a small one slowly skirting the rocks on the very summit of the hill. The first shot kicked the dirt beside him, but the second broke his leg and he ran behind a huge boulder. I rested the little Mannlicher on the trunk of a tree, covering the edge of the rock with the ivory head of the front sight and waited. I was perfectly sure that the goral would try to steal out, and in two or three minutes his head appeared. I fired instantly, boring him through both shoulders, and he rolled over and over stone dead lodging against a rock not fifty yards from where we stood.

The other gorals were gone, but a few seconds later, I spotted a small one cautiously making its way around the rocks at the top of the hill. My first shot kicked up dirt beside him, but the second hit his leg, and he darted behind a massive boulder. I set the little Mannlicher on the trunk of a tree, lining up the edge of the rock with the ivory tip of the front sight and waited. I was sure the goral would try to sneak out, and in just a couple of minutes, his head appeared. I shot immediately, hitting him through both shoulders, and he tumbled over dead, ending up against a rock less than fifty yards from where we stood.

The two natives were wild with excitement and, yelling at the top of their lungs, ran up the hill like goats to bring the animal down to me. It was a young male in full summer coat, and with horns about two inches long. Our pleasure was somewhat dampened, however, when we went to recover the first goral for we found that when it had landed in the grass at the edge of the river it had either rolled or crawled into the water. We searched along the bank for half a mile but without success and returned to Hui-yao just in time for tiffin.

The two locals were thrilled and, shouting at the top of their lungs, ran up the hill like goats to bring the animal down to me. It was a young male in full summer coat, with horns about two inches long. Our excitement was slightly dampened, though, when we went to retrieve the first goral and found that after it had landed in the grass at the riverbank, it had either rolled or crawled into the water. We searched along the bank for half a mile but had no luck and returned to Hui-yao just in time for lunch.

In the afternoon we shifted camp to a beautiful little grove on the opposite side of the river behind the hunting grounds. Heller, instead of going over with the caravan, went back along the rim of the gorge in the pine forest where he could look across the river to the hill on which we had hunted in the morning. With his field glasses he discovered five gorals in an open meadow, and opened fire. It was long shooting but the animals did not know which way to run, and he killed three of the herd before they disappeared. Our first day had, - 301 - therefore, netted us one deer and four gorals which was better than at any other camp we had had in China.

In the afternoon, we moved our camp to a lovely little grove on the other side of the river, behind the hunting grounds. Instead of going with the caravan, Heller went back along the edge of the gorge in the pine forest, where he could see across the river to the hill where we had hunted in the morning. With his binoculars, he spotted five gorals in an open meadow and took his shot. It was a long distance, but the animals didn’t know which way to run, and he managed to take down three of them before they vanished. So, our first day had brought us one deer and four gorals, which was better than any other camp we had been to in China. 301

We realized from the first day's work that Hui-yao would prove to be a wonderful hunting ground, and the two weeks we spent there justified all our hopes. At other places the cover was so dense or the country so rough that it was necessary to depend entirely upon dogs and untrained natives, but here the animals were on open hillsides where they could be still hunted with success. Moreover, we had an opportunity to learn something about the habits of the animals for we could watch them with glasses from the opposite side of the river when they were quite unconscious of our presence.

We realized from the first day's work that Hui-yao would be an amazing hunting spot, and the two weeks we spent there proved to be everything we hoped for. In other places, the underbrush was so thick or the terrain so rugged that we had to rely completely on dogs and untrained locals, but here the animals were on open hillsides where we could still hunt them successfully. Additionally, we had the chance to learn about the animals' habits since we could watch them through binoculars from the other side of the river without them being aware of us.

There was only one day of our stay at Hui-yao that we did not bring in one or more gorals and even after we had obtained an unrivaled series, dozens were left. Shooting the animals from across the river was rather an unsportsmanlike way of hunting but it was a very effective method of collecting the particular specimens we needed for the Museum series. The distance was so great that the gorals were unable to tell from where the bullets were coming and almost any number of shots might be had before the animals made for cover. It became simply a case of long range target shooting at seldom less than three hundred yards.

There was only one day of our stay in Hui-yao when we didn’t bring in one or more gorals, and even after we had collected an unmatched series, we still left behind dozens. Shooting the animals from across the river was not exactly a fair way to hunt, but it was a very effective method for gathering the specific specimens we needed for the Museum series. The distance was so great that the gorals couldn’t tell where the bullets were coming from, and we could take almost as many shots as we wanted before the animals ducked for cover. It became just a case of long-range target shooting at usually no less than three hundred yards.

Still hunting on the cliffs was quite a different matter, however, and was as good sport as I have ever had. The rocks and open meadow slopes were so precipitous that there was very real danger every moment, for one misstep would send a man rolling hundreds of feet to the bottom where he would inevitably be killed.

Still hunting on the cliffs was a completely different experience, though, and it was some of the best sport I’ve ever had. The rocks and the open grassy slopes were so steep that there was real danger at every moment, because one misstep could send a person tumbling hundreds of feet to the bottom where they would almost certainly be killed.

The gorals soon learned to lie motionless along the sheerest cliffs or to hide in the rank grass, and it took - 302 - close work to find them. I used most frequently to ride from camp to the river, send back the horse by a mafu, and work along the face of the rock wall with my two native boys. Their eyesight was wonderful and they often discovered gorals lying among the rocks when I had missed them entirely with my powerful prism binoculars. Their eyes had never been dimmed by study and I suppose were as keen as those of primitive man who possibly hunted gorals or their relatives thousands of years ago over these same hills.

The gorals quickly figured out how to stay completely still along the steepest cliffs or to hide in the thick grass, making it hard to spot them. I usually rode from camp to the river, sent the horse back with a mafu, and worked my way along the rock face with my two local boys. Their eyesight was amazing, and they often spotted gorals nestled among the rocks when I completely missed them with my high-powered binoculars. Their eyes had never lost their sharpness through study, and I guess they were as sharp as those of early humans who likely hunted gorals or their relatives thousands of years ago in these same hills. 302

There were many glorious hunts and it would be wearisome were I to describe them all, but one afternoon stands out in my memory above the others. It was a brilliant day, and about four o'clock I rode away from camp, across the rice fields and up the grassy valley to the long sweep of open meadow on the rim of the river gorge.

There were many amazing hunts, and it would be exhausting to describe them all, but one afternoon stands out in my memory more than the others. It was a beautiful day, and around four o'clock, I rode away from camp, across the rice fields and up the grassy valley to the wide open meadow on the edge of the river gorge.

Sending back the horse, "Achi," my native hunter, and I crawled carefully to a jutting point of rocks and lay face down to inspect the cliffs above and to the left. With my glasses I scanned every inch of the gray wall, but could not discover a sign of life. Glancing at Achi I saw him gazing intently at the rock which I had just examined, and in a moment he whispered excitedly "gnai-yang." By putting both hands to the side of his head he indicated that the animal was lying down, and although he pointed with my rifle, it was full five minutes before I could discover the goral flat upon his belly against the cliff, with head stretched out, and fore legs doubled beneath his body. He was sound asleep in the sun and looked as though he might remain forever.

Sending back the horse, "Achi," my local hunter, I carefully crawled to a ledge of rocks and lay face down to check out the cliffs above and to my left. With my binoculars, I scanned every inch of the gray wall but couldn’t find any signs of life. Glancing at Achi, I saw him staring intently at the rock I had just looked at, and a moment later he whispered excitedly, "gnai-yang." By putting both hands to the sides of his head, he showed that the animal was lying down, and even though he pointed with my rifle, it took me a full five minutes to spot the goral flat on its belly against the cliff, with its head stretched out and forelegs tucked under its body. It was sound asleep in the sun and looked like it could stay that way forever.

A Sambur Killed at Wa-tien

Muntjac Head

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By signs Achi indicated that we were to climb up above and circle around the cliff to a ragged promontory which jutted into space within a hundred yards of the animal. It was a good three quarters of an hour before we peered cautiously between two rocks opposite the ledge where the goral had been asleep. The animal was gone. We looked at each other in blank amazement and then began a survey of the ground below.

By gestures, Achi signaled that we needed to climb up and circle around the cliff to a rugged point that jutted out into the space about a hundred yards from the animal. It took us a good three-quarters of an hour before we cautiously peeked between two rocks across from the ledge where the goral had been sleeping. The animal was gone. We looked at each other in stunned disbelief and then started to examine the ground below.

Halfway down the mountain-side Achi discovered the ram feeding in an open meadow and we began at once to make our way down the face of the cliff. It was dangerous going, but we gained the meadow in safety and worked cautiously up to a grassy ridge where the goral had been standing. Again we crawled like snakes among the rocks and again an empty slope of waving grass met our eyes. The goral had disappeared, and even Achi could not discover a sign of life upon the meadow.

Halfway down the mountainside, Achi spotted the ram grazing in an open meadow, and we immediately started our descent down the cliff. It was a risky endeavor, but we safely reached the meadow and carefully moved up to a grassy ridge where the goral had been standing. Once more, we crawled like snakes among the rocks, but again all we saw was an empty slope of swaying grass. The goral was gone, and even Achi couldn't find any signs of life in the meadow.

With an exclamation of disgust I got to my feet and looked around. Instantly there was a rattle of stones and a huge goral leaped out of the grass thirty yards away and dashed up the hill. I threw up my rifle and shot hurriedly, chipping a bit of rock a foot behind the animal. Swearing softly at my carelessness, I threw in another shell, selected a spot in front of the ram, and fired. The splendid animal sank in its tracks without a quiver, shot through the base of the neck.

With a gasp of disgust, I jumped up and scanned the area. Suddenly, there was a rustle of stones, and a massive goral sprang out of the grass thirty yards away and raced up the hill. I raised my rifle and took a quick shot, hitting a rock a foot behind the animal. Cursing softly at my carelessness, I loaded another shell, aimed ahead of the ram, and fired. The magnificent animal collapsed on the spot, shot right through the base of the neck.

I had just ejected the empty shell when Achi seized me by the arm, whispering "gnai-yang, gnai-yang, gnai-yang, na, na, na, na" and pointing to the cliffs two hundred yards above us. I looked up just in time to see another goral flash behind a rock on the very summit of the ridge. An instant later he appeared again and stopped broadside on with his noble head thrown up, - 304 - silhouetted against the sky. It was a perfect target and, resting my rifle on a flat rock, I covered the animal with the white bead and centered it in the rear sight. As I touched the hair trigger and the roar of the high-power shell crashed back from the face of the cliff, the animal leaped with legs straight out, whirling over and over down the meadow and bringing up against a boulder not twenty yards from the first goral.

I had just ejected the empty shell when Achi grabbed my arm, whispering "gnai-yang, gnai-yang, gnai-yang, na, na, na, na" and pointing to the cliffs two hundred yards above us. I looked up just in time to see another goral dart behind a rock at the very top of the ridge. A moment later, he appeared again, standing broadside with his majestic head held high, outlined against the sky. It was a perfect shot, so I rested my rifle on a flat rock, lined up the white bead, and centered it in the rear sight. As I squeezed the hair-trigger and the roar of the high-power shell echoed off the cliff face, the animal leaped with its legs straight out, tumbling down the meadow and coming to a stop against a boulder not twenty yards from the first goral.

That night as I walked over the hills in the cool dusk I would not have changed my lot with any man on earth. The breathless excitement of the stalk and the wild thrill of exultation at the clean kill of two splendid rams were still rioting in my veins. I came out of the valley and across the rice fields to the blazing camp fire. Yvette ran to the edge of the grove, her hands filled with wet photographic negatives. "How many?" she called. "Two," I answered, "and both big ones. How many for you?" "Fourteen color plates," she sung back happily, "and all good."

That night as I walked over the hills in the cool dusk, I wouldn't have traded places with anyone on earth. The excitement from the hunt and the thrill of celebrating the successful kill of two magnificent rams was still rushing through my veins. I emerged from the valley and crossed the rice fields to the bright campfire. Yvette ran to the edge of the grove, her hands full of wet photographic negatives. "How many?" she shouted. "Two," I replied, "and both are big ones. How many do you have?" "Fourteen color plates," she sang back happily, "and they're all great."

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CHAPTER XXXVII

SEROW AND SAMBUR

Serow and Sambur

We had a delightful visit from Mr. Grierson during our first week in camp. He rode out on Thursday afternoon and remained until Sunday, bringing us mail, war news, and fresh vegetables, and returning with goral meat for all the foreigners in Teng-yueh. On the afternoon of his visit I had killed three monkeys which represented a different species from any we had obtained before. They were the Indian baboon (Macacus rhesus) and were probably like those of the Salween River at Changlung.

We had a great visit from Mr. Grierson during our first week at camp. He came out on Thursday afternoon and stayed until Sunday, bringing us mail, updates about the war, and fresh vegetables, and he took back goral meat for all the foreigners in Teng-yueh. On the afternoon of his visit, I had killed three monkeys that were a different species from any we had gotten before. They were Indian baboons (Macacus rhesus) and were probably similar to those from the Salween River at Changlung.

I found two great troupes of the monkeys running along the opposite river bank. The first herd was climbing up the almost perpendicular rock walls, swinging on the bushes and sometimes almost disappearing in the tufts of grass. I could not approach nearer than one hundred and fifty yards and did some very bad shooting at the little beasts, but a running monkey at that distance is a pretty uncertain mark, and it requires a much better shot than I am to register more hits than misses. I did kill two, but both dropped into the river and promptly sank, so that I gave it up.

I saw two great groups of monkeys running along the opposite riverbank. The first group was climbing the nearly vertical rock walls, swinging from the bushes and sometimes almost vanishing in the patches of grass. I couldn't get closer than about one hundred fifty yards and ended up making some poor shots at the little guys, but a running monkey from that distance is a pretty tricky target, and it takes a much better shot than I am to get more hits than misses. I did manage to kill two, but both fell into the river and quickly sank, so I decided to give up.

Less than a half mile farther on another and larger troupe appeared among the boulders just at the water's edge. Profiting by my experience, I kept out of sight among the bushes and watched the animals play about until one hopped to a rock and sat quietly for an instant. - 306 - I got six in this way, but we were able to recover only three of them from the water.

Less than half a mile farther on, another and larger group showed up among the boulders right at the water's edge. Learning from my experience, I stayed hidden among the bushes and watched the animals play until one jumped onto a rock and sat still for a moment. 306 I managed to catch six this way, but we were only able to retrieve three of them from the water.

Heller shot three muntjac at Hui-yao, besides the doe which he killed on the first day. One of the largest bucks had a pair of beautiful antlers three and one half inches long from the burr to the tip. The skin-covered projections, or pedicels, of the frontal bone, from the summits of which the antlers grow, measured two and one-half inches from the skull to the burrs. Evidently the muntjac are somewhat irregular in shedding for, although they were all in full summer pelage, two already had lost their antlers while the other had not. I can think of no more delicious meat than the flesh of these little deer and they seem to be as highly esteemed by the English sportsmen of India as they are by the foreigners of China.

Heller shot three muntjac at Hui-yao, in addition to the doe he killed on the first day. One of the largest bucks had a stunning pair of antlers that were three and a half inches long from the base to the tip. The skin-covered projections, or pedicels, of the frontal bone, from which the antlers grow, measured two and a half inches from the skull to the burrs. It seems that muntjac have a somewhat irregular shedding pattern because, although they were all in full summer coat, two had already lost their antlers while the other hadn’t. I can’t think of any meat more delicious than that of these little deer, and they seem to be as highly valued by the English sportsmen in India as they are by foreign hunters in China.

I did not see a muntjac while at Hui-yao, but was fortunate in killing a splendid coal-black serow which represents a subspecies new to science; although the natives said that serow were known to occur in the thick jungle on the south side of the river, none had been seen for years. Heller and I had gone to this part of the gorge to hunt for a troupe of monkeys which he had located on the previous day. We had separated. Heller keeping close to the water while I skirted the cliffs near the summit not far from the road which led through the pine forest.

I didn't see a muntjac while I was at Hui-yao, but I was lucky enough to take down a stunning coal-black serow, which turns out to be a new subspecies. The locals mentioned that serow were known to be in the dense jungle on the south side of the river, but no one had spotted them in years. Heller and I had come to this area of the gorge to hunt for a group of monkeys he had found the day before. We split up, with Heller staying close to the water while I moved along the cliffs near the top, not far from the road that went through the pine forest.

I was walking just under the rim of the gorge when suddenly with a snort a large animal dashed out of a thicket below and to the left. I caught a glimpse of a great coal-black body and a pair of short curved horns as the beast disappeared in a shallow gully, and realized that it was a serow. A few seconds later it reappeared, - 307 - running directly away from me along the upper edge of the gorge. I fired and the animal dropped, gave a convulsive twist, rolled over, and plunged into the cañon.

I was walking just beneath the edge of the gorge when suddenly I heard a snort and a large animal burst out of a thicket below and to my left. I caught a glimpse of its huge coal-black body and a pair of short curved horns as it vanished into a shallow gully, and I realized it was a serow. A few seconds later, it reappeared, running straight away from me along the upper edge of the gorge. I shot, and the animal fell, twisted convulsively, rolled over, and tumbled into the canyon. - 307 -

As the serow disappeared we heard a chorus of excited yells from below, and it was evident that some natives near the water had seen it fall. I had slight hope that they might have rescued it from the river, but my heart was heavy as we worked along the cliff trying to find a place where it was possible to descend. A wood cutter whom we discovered a short distance away guided us down a trail so steep that it seemed impossible for a human being to walk along it, and in proof I slid the last half of the way to the rocks at the river's edge, narrowly escaping a broken neck.

As the serow disappeared, we heard a chorus of excited shouts from below, and it was clear that some locals by the water had seen it fall. I had little hope that they might have saved it from the river, but my heart was heavy as we made our way along the cliff, looking for a spot to go down. A woodcutter we found a short distance away led us down a trail so steep that it seemed impossible for anyone to walk on it, and to prove that point, I slid the last half of the way to the rocks at the river's edge, barely avoiding a broken neck.

When we reached the stream it was only to find a flat wall against which the water surged in a mass of white foam, separating us from the place where the serow had fallen. I tried to wade around the rock but in two steps the water was above my waist. It was evident that we would have to swim, and I began to undress, inviting Achi and the wood cutter to follow; the former refused, but the latter pulled off his few clothes with considerable hesitation.

When we got to the stream, we found a flat wall where the water crashed down in a swirl of white foam, blocking us from the spot where the serow had fallen. I attempted to wade around the rock, but after just two steps, the water was above my waist. It was clear we would have to swim, so I started undressing and encouraged Achi and the woodcutter to do the same; Achi declined, but the woodcutter hesitantly took off his few clothes.

It was a swim of only about forty feet around the face of the cliff but the current was strong and it was no easy matter to fight my way to the other side. After I had climbed out upon the rocks I called to the wood cutter to follow and he slipped into the water. Evidently the current was more than he had bargained for and a look of fear crossed his face, but he went manfully at it.

It was just a swim of about forty feet around the cliff, but the current was powerful, and it was no easy task to make it to the other side. Once I climbed out onto the rocks, I called to the woodcutter to follow, and he slipped into the water. Clearly, the current was more than he expected, and a look of fear crossed his face, but he tackled it bravely.

He had almost reached the rock on which I was standing with outstretched hand when his strength - 308 - seemed suddenly to go and he cried out in terror. I jumped into the water, hanging to the rocks with one hand and letting my legs float out behind. The wood cutter just managed to reach my big toe, to which he clung as if it had in reality been the straw of the drowning man and I dragged him up stream until, to my intense relief, he could grasp the rocks.

He had almost reached the rock where I was standing with my hand stretched out when he suddenly lost his strength and shouted in fear. I jumped into the water, gripping the rocks with one hand and letting my legs float behind me. The woodcutter barely managed to grab my big toe, clinging to it as if it were a lifeline for a drowning man, and I pulled him upstream until, to my great relief, he was able to hold onto the rocks.

We picked our way among the boulders for a few yards and suddenly came upon the serow lying partly in the water. I felt like dancing with delight but the sharp rocks were not conducive to any such demonstrations and I merely yelled to Achi who understood from the tone, if not from my words, that the animal was safe.

We carefully made our way through the boulders for a few yards and suddenly found the serow lying partly in the water. I felt like dancing with joy, but the sharp rocks weren’t good for that kind of celebration, so I just shouted to Achi, who understood from my tone, if not from my words, that the animal was okay.

The men who had shouted when the animal fell over the cliff were only fifty feet away, but they too were separated from it by a wall of rock and surging water. They said that there was an easier way up the cliff than the one by which we had descended, and prepared a line of tough vines, one end of which they let down to us. We made it fast to the serow and I kept a second vine rope in my hands, swimming beside the animal as they dragged it to the other shore. It was landed safely and the wood cutter was hauled over by the same means.

The men who had yelled when the animal fell over the cliff were only fifty feet away, but they were also separated from it by a wall of rock and rushing water. They said there was an easier way up the cliff than the one we had used to come down, and they prepared a line of strong vines, letting one end down to us. We secured it to the serow, and I held onto a second vine rope, swimming alongside the animal as they pulled it to the other shore. It was brought safely to land, and the woodcutter was hauled over using the same method.

I had intended to swim back for my clothes but discovered that Achi had disappeared, taking my garments and those of the wood cutter with him. He evidently intended to meet us on the hilltop, but it left us in the rather awkward predicament of making our way through the thick brush with only the proverbial smile and minus even the necktie.

I had planned to swim back for my clothes but found out that Achi had vanished, taking my clothes and the woodcutter's with him. It was clear he meant to meet us on the hilltop, but it put us in the awkward position of having to navigate through the dense brush with just a smile and no necktie at all.

The men fastened together the serow's four legs, slipped a pole beneath them and toiled up the steep - 309 - slope preceded by a naked brown figure and followed by a white one. The side of the gorge was covered with vines and creepers, many of them thorny, and pushing through them with no bodily protection was far from comfortable.

The men tied the serow's four legs together, slid a pole underneath, and struggled up the steep slope, leading with a bare brown figure and followed by a white one. The side of the gorge was covered in vines and creepers, many of which had thorns, and moving through them without any protection was far from comfortable.

When we arrived at the road on the rim of the gorge I was dismayed to find that Achi was not there with my clothes. The wood cutter did not appear to be greatly worried and indicated that we would find him farther up the road. I walked on dubiously, expecting every second to meet some person, and sure enough, a Chinese woman suddenly appeared over a little hill. I dived into the tall ferns beside the road, burrowing like a rabbit, and from the frightened way in which she hurried past, she must have thought she had seen one of her ancestral spirits stalking abroad. We eventually found the boy, and, decently dressed, I faced the world again with confidence and happiness.

When we got to the road at the edge of the gorge, I was disappointed to see that Achi wasn’t there with my clothes. The woodcutter didn’t seem too concerned and suggested that we’d find him a bit further up the road. I continued walking with uncertainty, expecting to run into someone at any moment, and sure enough, a Chinese woman suddenly appeared over a small hill. I dashed into the tall ferns next to the road, hiding like a rabbit, and from the startled way she rushed by, she must have thought she’d seen one of her ancestral spirits roaming around. We eventually located the boy, and once I was dressed properly, I faced the world again with confidence and happiness.

On the way back to camp we saw a goral on the cliffs across the river. It was high up and fully three hundred and fifty yards away but, of course, quite unconscious of our presence. My first two shots struck close beside the animal, but at the third it rolled over and over down the hill, lodging among the rocks just above the river.

On the way back to camp, we spotted a goral on the cliffs across the river. It was high up and about three hundred and fifty yards away, completely unaware of us. My first two shots hit near the animal, but with the third shot, it tumbled down the hill and got stuck among the rocks just above the river.

Our entry into camp was triumphal, for fully half the village acted as an escort to the serow, an animal which few had ever seen. It was a female, and probably weighed about two hundred and fifty pounds. The mane was short and black and strikingly unlike the long white manes of the Snow Mountain serows; the horns were almost smooth. Getting this specimen was one of - 310 - the lucky chances which sometimes come to a sportsman, for one might hunt for weeks in the same place without ever seeing another serow, as the jungle is exceedingly dense and the cliffs so steep that it is impossible to walk except in a few spots. The animal had been feeding on the new grass just at the edge of the heavy cover and probably had been sleeping under a bush when she was disturbed.

Our arrival at camp was a celebration, as half the village came out to escort the serow, an animal that few had ever seen. It was a female, weighing about two hundred and fifty pounds. Its mane was short and black, looking very different from the long white manes of the Snow Mountain serows; the horns were almost smooth. Getting this specimen was one of those lucky breaks that sometimes happen to a hunter, as you could spend weeks in the same area without spotting another serow, since the jungle is incredibly dense and the cliffs so steep that walking is only possible in a few places. The animal had been munching on the new grass right at the edge of the thick foliage and most likely had been resting under a bush when she was startled.

Besides mammals and birds we made a fairly good collection of reptiles and lizards at Hui-yao, but in all other parts of the province which we visited they were exceedingly scarce. In fact, I have never been in a place where there were so few reptiles and batrachians. We obtained only one species of poisonous snake here. It was a small green viper which we sometimes saw coiled on a low bush watching mouse holes in the grass. Several species of nonpoisonous snakes were more common but were nowhere really abundant.

Besides mammals and birds, we collected a pretty good number of reptiles and lizards at Hui-yao, but in all the other areas of the province we visited, they were really hard to find. Honestly, I've never been anywhere with so few reptiles and amphibians. We only found one type of poisonous snake here. It was a small green viper that we occasionally saw coiled on a low bush, watching mouse holes in the grass. Several types of nonpoisonous snakes were more common, but they still weren't really abundant anywhere.

We left Hui-yao the day after I killed the serow for a village called Wa-tien where there was a report of sambur. None of us had any real hope of finding the huge deer after our former unsuccessful hunts, but we camped in the early afternoon on an open hilltop five miles from Wa-tien where the natives assured us the animals often came to eat the young rice during the night.

We left Hui-yao the day after I killed the serow for a village called Wa-tien, where there was a report of sambur. None of us had much hope of finding the large deer after our previous unsuccessful hunts, but we set up camp in the early afternoon on an open hilltop five miles from Wa-tien, where the locals assured us the animals often came to feed on the young rice at night.

We engaged four men with three dogs as hunters, but awoke to find a dense fog blanketing the valley and mountains. It was not until half past nine that the gray mist yielded to the sun and left the hills clear enough for us to hunt. We climbed a wooded ridge directly behind the camp and skirted the edge of a heavily forested ravine which the men wished to drive.

We hired four guys with three dogs as hunters, but woke up to find a thick fog covering the valley and mountains. It wasn't until 9:30 that the gray mist cleared away for the sun and the hills were visible enough for us to hunt. We climbed a wooded ridge just behind the camp and walked along the edge of a dense forested ravine that the guys wanted to drive through.

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Heller took a position in a bean field while I climbed to a sharp ridge above and beyond him. In less than half an hour the dogs began to yelp in an uncertain way. I saw one of them running down hill, nose to the ground, and a few seconds later Heller fired twice in quick succession. Two sambur had skirted the edge of the wood less than one hundred yards away, but he had missed with both shots.

Heller took a spot in a bean field while I climbed to a steep ridge above and beyond him. In less than half an hour, the dogs started to bark in a confused manner. I saw one of them running downhill, nose to the ground, and a few seconds later, Heller fired twice in quick succession. Two sambur had come close to the edge of the woods, less than a hundred yards away, but he missed both shots.

The trail led into a deep ravine filled with dense underbrush. In a few moments the dogs began to yelp again and, while Heller remained on the hillside to watch the open fields, I followed the hounds along the creek bed. Suddenly the whiplike crack of his Savage 260-800 rifle sounded five times in quick succession just above our heads, and we climbed hurriedly out of the gorge.

The trail led into a deep valley packed with thick bushes. After a moment, the dogs started barking again and, while Heller stayed on the hillside to keep an eye on the open fields, I followed the hounds along the creek bed. Suddenly, the sharp crack of his Savage 260-800 rifle went off five times in quick succession right above us, and we quickly climbed out of the ravine.

Heller shouted that he had fired at a huge sambur running along the edge of a bean field but the animal showed no sign of being hit. We easily picked up the trail in the soft earth and in a few moments found several drops of blood, showing that at least one bullet had found its mark. The blood soon ceased and we began to wonder if the sambur had not been merely scratched.

Heller shouted that he had shot at a huge sambur running along the edge of a bean field, but the animal showed no signs of being hit. We quickly picked up the trail in the soft ground and shortly found several drops of blood, confirming that at least one bullet had hit its target. The blood soon stopped, and we started to wonder if the sambur had been just grazed.

Heller had seen the deer disappear in a second ravine, a branch of the one out of which it had first been driven, and while he watched the upper side I worked my way to the bottom to look for tracks. A few moments later the natives began to shout excitedly just above me, and Heller called out that they had found the deer, which was lying stone dead half way down the side of the gorge in a mass of thick ferns. The sambur had been hit only once but the powerful Savage bullet had crashed through the shoulder into the lungs; it was quite - 312 - sufficient to do the work even on such a huge animal and the deer had run less than one hundred yards from the place where it had been shot.

Heller watched the deer vanish into a second ravine, a branch of the one it had first fled from, and while he kept an eye on the upper side, I made my way to the bottom to search for tracks. A few moments later, the locals started shouting excitedly just above me, and Heller yelled that they had found the deer, which was lying lifeless halfway down the side of the gorge in a thick patch of ferns. The sambur had been hit only once, but the powerful Savage bullet had torn through its shoulder into the lungs; it was more than enough to take down such a large animal, and the deer had run less than one hundred yards from the spot where it was shot. 312

It was a splendid male, carrying a magnificent pair of antlers which measured twenty-seven inches in length. The deer was about the size of an American wapiti, or elk, and must have weighed at least seven hundred pounds, for it required eight men to lift it. The Chinese hunters were wild with excitement, but especially so when we began to eviscerate the animal, for they wished to save the blood which is considered of great medicinal value. They filled caps, sacks, bamboo joints, and every receptacle which they could find after each man had drunk all he could possibly force down his throat and had eaten the huge clots which choked the thorax.

It was an impressive male, sporting a stunning pair of antlers that measured twenty-seven inches long. The deer was about the size of an American elk and must have weighed at least seven hundred pounds, because it took eight men to lift it. The Chinese hunters were thrilled, especially when we began to gut the animal, since they wanted to collect the blood, which is regarded as having significant medicinal value. They filled caps, sacks, bamboo tubes, and every container they could find after each man had drunk as much as he could and had eaten the large clots that filled the chest cavity.

When the sambur was brought to camp a regular orgy was held by our servants, mafus, and dozens of villagers who gathered to buy, beg, or steal some of the blood. Our interpreter, Wu, took the heart as his perquisite, carefully extracted the blood, and dried it in a basin. The liver also seemed to be an especial desideratum, and in fact every part of the viscera was saved Because the antlers were hard they were not considered of especial value, but had they been in the velvet we should have had to guard them closely; then they would have been worth about one hundred dollars (Mexican).

When the sambur was brought to camp, our servants, or mafus, along with dozens of villagers, held a wild feast, trying to buy, beg, or steal some of the blood. Our interpreter, Wu, took the heart as his share, carefully collected the blood, and dried it in a basin. The liver also seemed to be in high demand, and in fact, every part of the viscera was saved. The antlers were hard, so they weren't considered particularly valuable, but if they had been in velvet, we would have had to guard them closely; they would have been worth about one hundred dollars (Mexican).

We expected from our easy hunt of the morning that it would not be difficult to get sambur, and indeed, Heller did see another in the afternoon but failed to kill it. Unfortunately, a relative of one of the hunters died suddenly during the night and all the men went off with their dogs to the burial feast which lasted several days, and we were not able to find any other good hounds.

We thought that our easy morning hunt would make it simple to get sambur, and indeed, Heller saw another one in the afternoon but couldn’t kill it. Unfortunately, a family member of one of the hunters passed away unexpectedly during the night, and all the men left with their dogs for the burial feast, which lasted several days, so we weren't able to find any other good hounds.

A Mountain Lounge Chair

The Teng-yueh Waterfall

- 313 -

There were undoubtedly several sambur in the vicinity of our camp but they fed entirely during the night and spent the day in such thick cover that it was impossible to drive them out except with good beaters or dogs. We hunted faithfully every morning and afternoon but did not get another shot and, after a week, moved camp to the base of a great mountain range six miles away near a Liso village.

There were definitely several sambur around our camp, but they only fed at night and spent the day hiding in such dense cover that it was impossible to flush them out without good beaters or dogs. We hunted diligently every morning and afternoon but didn’t get another shot. After a week, we moved our camp to the base of a huge mountain range six miles away, close to a Liso village.

The scenery in this region is magnificent. The mountain range is the same on which we hunted at Ho-mu-shu and reaches a height of 11,000 feet near Wa-tien. It is wild and uninhabited, and the splendid forests must shelter a good deal of game.

The scenery in this region is stunning. The mountain range is the same one where we hunted at Ho-mu-shu and rises to 11,000 feet near Wa-tien. It’s wild and uninhabited, and the beautiful forests likely hide a lot of game.

The foothills on which we were camped are low wooded ridges rising out of open cultivated valleys, which often run into the jungle-filled ravines in which the sambur sleep. Why the deer should occur in this particular region and not in the neighboring country is a mystery unless it is the proximity of the great forested mountain range. But in similar places only a few miles away, where there is an abundance of cover, the natives said the animals had never been seen, and neither were they known on the opposite side of the mountain range where the Teng-yueh-Ta-li Fu road crosses the Salween valley.

The foothills where we set up camp are low wooded ridges rising from open cultivated valleys, which often lead into the jungle-filled ravines where the sambur deer rest. It's a mystery why these deer are found in this specific area and not in the neighboring regions, unless it's due to the nearby large forested mountain range. However, in similar places just a few miles away, where there’s plenty of cover, the locals said the deer have never been spotted, and they're also not known to exist on the other side of the mountain range where the Teng-yueh-Ta-li Fu road crosses the Salween valley.

On May 20, we started back to Hui-yao to spend three or four days hunting monkeys before we returned to Teng-yueh to pack our specimens and end the field work of the Expedition. On the way my wife and I became separated from the caravan but as we had one of our servants for a guide we were not uneasy.

On May 20, we headed back to Hui-yao to spend three or four days hunting monkeys before returning to Teng-yueh to pack our specimens and wrap up the fieldwork for the Expedition. Along the way, my wife and I got separated from the caravan, but since we had one of our servants as a guide, we weren't worried.

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The man was a lazy, stupid fellow named Le Ping-sang (which we had changed to "Leaping Frog" because he never did leap for any cause whatever), and before long he had us hopelessly lost.

The man was a lazy, dumb guy named Le Ping-sang (which we had changed to "Leaping Frog" because he never jumped for any reason at all), and soon enough he had us totally lost.

It would appear easy enough to ask the way from the natives, but the Chinese are so suspicious that they often will intentionally misdirect a stranger. They do not know what business the inquirer may have in the village to which he wishes to go and therefore, just on general principles, they send him off in the wrong direction.

It seems simple enough to ask the locals for directions, but the Chinese are often so wary that they might purposely lead a stranger astray. They don't know what reason the person asking might have for going to the village they want to reach, so out of general caution, they send them off in the wrong direction.

Apparently this is what happened to us, for a farmer of whom we inquired the way directed us to a road at nearly right angles to the one we should have taken, and it was late in the afternoon before we finally found the caravan.

Apparently this is what happened to us, because a farmer we asked for directions pointed us to a road that was almost at a right angle to the one we should have taken, and it was late in the afternoon before we finally found the caravan.

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CHAPTER XXXVIII

LAST DAYS IN CHINA

It was of paramount importance to pack our specimens before the beginning of the summer rains. They might be expected to break in full violence any day after June 1, and when they really began it would be impossible to get our boxes to Bhamo, for virtually all caravan travel ceases during the wet season. Therefore our second stay at Hui-yao was short and we returned to Teng-yueh on May 24, ending the active field work of the Expedition exactly a year from the time it began with our trip up the Min River to Yen-ping in Fukien Province.

It was crucial to pack our samples before the summer rains kicked in. They could start at any moment after June 1, and once they did, getting our boxes to Bhamo would be impossible because almost all caravan travel stops during the rainy season. So, our second stay in Hui-yao was brief, and we headed back to Teng-yueh on May 24, wrapping up the Expedition's active fieldwork exactly one year from when it started with our trip up the Min River to Yen-ping in Fukien Province.

Mr. Grierson had kindly invited us again to become his guests and no place ever seemed more delightful, after our hot and dusty ride, than his beautiful garden and cool, shady verandah where a dainty tea was served. Our days in Teng-yueh were busy ones, for after the specimens were packed and the boxes sealed it was necessary to wrap them in waterproof covers; moreover, the equipment had to be sorted and sold or discarded, a caravan engaged, and nearly a thousand feet of motion-picture film developed. This was done in the spacious dark room connected with Mr. Grierson's house which offered a welcome change from the cramped quarters of the tent which we had used for so many months.

Mr. Grierson had generously invited us to be his guests again, and after our hot and dusty ride, his beautiful garden and cool, shady porch felt more inviting than ever, especially with the delightful tea that was served. Our days in Teng-yueh were packed, as we needed to pack the specimens, seal the boxes, and wrap everything in waterproof covers. Additionally, the equipment had to be sorted out, either sold or thrown away, a caravan had to be arranged, and nearly a thousand feet of motion-picture film needed to be developed. We did this in the spacious dark room connected to Mr. Grierson's house, which was a welcome change from the cramped quarters of the tent that we had been using for so many months.

Much of the success of our motion film lay in the fact that it was developed within a short time after - 316 - exposure, for had we attempted to bring or send it to Shanghai, the nearest city with facilities for doing such work, it would inevitably have been ruined by the climatic changes. Although cinematograph photography requires an elaborate and expensive outfit and is a source of endless work, nevertheless, the value of an actual moving record of the life of such remote regions is worth all the trouble it entails.

Much of the success of our film came from the fact that it was made shortly after the exposure. If we had tried to send it to Shanghai, the nearest city with the right facilities, it would have definitely been ruined by the changes in climate. Even though cinematography needs a complex and expensive setup and involves endless work, the worth of capturing an actual moving record of life in such far-off places makes all the effort worthwhile.

The Paget natural color plates proved to be eminently satisfactory and were among the most interesting results of the expedition. The stereoscopic effects and the faithful reproduction of the delicate atmospheric shading in the photographs are remarkable. Although the plates had been subjected to a variety of climatic conditions and temperatures by the time the last ones were exposed in Burma, a year and a half after their manufacture, they showed no signs of deterioration even when the ordinary negatives which we brought with us from America had been ruined. The other photographs, some of which are reproduced in this book, speak for themselves.

The Paget natural color plates turned out to be extremely satisfactory and were among the most fascinating results of the expedition. The 3D effects and the accurate representation of the subtle atmospheric shading in the photos are impressive. Even though the plates had experienced various weather conditions and temperatures by the time the last ones were taken in Burma, a year and a half after they were made, they showed no signs of damage, unlike the regular negatives we brought from America, which were ruined. The other photographs, some of which are included in this book, speak for themselves.

The entire collections of the Expedition were packed in forty-one cases and included the following specimens:

The complete collection from the Expedition was packed into forty-one cases and included these specimens:

2,100	mammals
800	birds
200	reptiles and batrachians
200	skeletons and formalin preparations for anatomical study
150	Paget natural color plates
500	photographic negatives
10,000	feet of motion-picture film.

Since the Expedition was organized primarily for the study of the mammalian fauna and its distribution, - 317 - our efforts were directed very largely toward this branch of science, and other specimens were gathered only when conditions were especially favorable. I believe that the mammal collection is the most extensive ever taken from China by a single continuous expedition, and a large percentage undoubtedly will prove to represent species new to science. Our tents were pitched in 108 different spots from 15,000 feet to 1,400 feet above sea level, and because of this range in altitudes, the fauna represented by our specimens is remarkably varied. Moreover, during our nine months in Yün-nan we spent 115 days in the saddle, riding 2,000 miles on horse or mule back, largely over small roads or trails in little known parts of the province.

Since the Expedition was mainly organized to study the mammal population and its distribution, - 317 - we focused a lot on this area of science, and we only collected other specimens when conditions were especially good. I believe the mammal collection is the largest ever taken from China by a single ongoing expedition, and a significant percentage will likely turn out to be species new to science. We set up camp in 108 different locations, ranging from 15,000 feet to 1,400 feet above sea level, and because of this wide range of altitudes, the animals represented in our specimens are incredibly diverse. Furthermore, during our nine months in Yün-nan, we spent 115 days on horseback, traveling 2,000 miles mostly on small roads or trails in lesser-known areas of the province.

In Teng-yueh we were entertained most hospitably and the leisure hours were made delightful by golf, tennis, riding, and dinners. Mr. Grierson was a charming host who placed himself, as well as his house and servants, at our disposal, utter strangers though we were, and we shall never forget his welcome.

In Teng-yueh, we were welcomed with great hospitality, and our free time was filled with golf, tennis, horseback riding, and dinners. Mr. Grierson was a lovely host who offered us, complete strangers, his home and the help of his staff. We will always remember his warm welcome.

We decided to take four man-chairs to Bhamo because of the rain which was expected every day, and the coolies made us very comfortable upon our sleeping bags which were swung between two bamboo poles and covered with a strip of yellow oil-cloth. They were the regulation Chinese "mountain schooner," at which we had so often laughed, but they proved to be infinitely more desirable than riding in the rain.

We chose to bring four chairs to Bhamo because it was supposed to rain every day, and the porters made our sleeping bags comfy, which were hung between two bamboo poles and covered with a piece of yellow oilcloth. They were the typical Chinese "mountain schooner" that we had often laughed at, but they turned out to be way better than riding in the rain.

With the forty-one cases of specimens we left Teng-yueh on June 1, behind a caravan of thirty mules for the eight-day journey to Bhamo on the outskirts of civilization. Our chair-coolies were miserable specimens of humanity. They were from S'suchuan Province and - 318 - were all unmarried which alone is almost a crime in China. Every cent of money, earned by the hardest sort of work, they spent in drinking, gambling, and smoking opium. As Wu tersely put it "they make how much—spend how much!"

With the forty-one cases of specimens, we left Teng-yueh on June 1, traveling with a caravan of thirty mules for the eight-day journey to Bhamo, on the edge of civilization. Our chair coolies were pitiful examples of humanity. They were from Sichuan Province and were all unmarried, which is almost a crime in China. Every cent they earned through grueling work went into drinking, gambling, and smoking opium. As Wu bluntly put it, "they make how much—spend how much!" - 318 -

About every two hours they would deposit us unceremoniously in the midst of a filthy village and disappear into some dark den in spite of our remonstrances. We would grumble and fume and finally, getting out of our chairs, peer into the hole. In the half light we would see them huddled on a "kang" over tiny yellow flames sucking at their pipes. At tiffin each one would stretch out under a tree with a stone for a pillow and his broad straw hat propped up to screen him from the wind. With infinite care he would extract a few black grains from a dirty box, mix them with a little water, and cook them over an alcohol lamp until the opium bubbled and was almost ready to drop. Then placing it lovingly in the bowl of his pipe he would hold it against the flame and draw in long breaths of the sickly-sweet smoke. The men could work all day without food, but opium was a prime necessity.

About every two hours, they'd drop us unceremoniously in the middle of a filthy village and disappear into some dark corner, ignoring our protests. We would grumble and fume, and finally, getting out of our chairs, we’d peek into the hole. In the dim light, we’d see them gathered on a "kang," huddled over tiny yellow flames, puffing on their pipes. At lunch, each one would lie under a tree with a stone for a pillow and his wide straw hat tilted to block the wind. With careful precision, he would pull out a few black grains from a dirty box, mix them with a bit of water, and cook them over an alcohol lamp until the opium bubbled and was almost ready to drop. Then, placing it tenderly in the bowl of his pipe, he’d hold it against the flame and take deep breaths of the sickly-sweet smoke. The men could work all day without food, but opium was an absolute necessity.

It was almost impossible to start them in the morning and it became my regular duty to make the rounds of the filthy holes in which they slept, seize them by the collars and drag them into the street. Force made the only appeal to their deadened senses and we were heartily sick of them before we reached Bhamo.

It was nearly impossible to wake them up in the morning, and it became my routine to go around to the filthy places where they slept, grab them by the collars, and drag them out into the street. Force was the only thing that seemed to get through to their numbed senses, and we were completely fed up with them by the time we reached Bhamo.

The road to Bhamo is a gradual descent from five thousand feet to almost sea level. Because of the fever the valleys are largely inhabited by "Chinese Shans" who differ in dress and customs from the Southern Shans of the Nam-ting River. Few of the men were tattooed and the women all wore the enormous cylindrical turban which we had seen once before in the Salween Valley.

The road to Bhamo gradually descends from five thousand feet to nearly sea level. Because of the malaria, the valleys are mostly populated by "Chinese Shans," who have different clothing and customs from the Southern Shans of the Nam-ting River. Few of the men were tattooed, and all the women wore the large cylindrical turbans we had seen once before in the Salween Valley.

Map I: The red line indicates the travels of the Expedition
Click on the image to see it in a larger size.

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At noon of the fifth day we crossed the Yün-nan border into Burma. It is a beautiful spot where a foaming mountain torrent rushes out of the jungle in a series of picturesque cascades and loses itself in a living wall of green. The stream is spanned by a splendid iron bridge from which a fine wide road of crushed stone leads all the way to Bhamo.

At noon on the fifth day, we crossed the Yün-nan border into Burma. It’s a beautiful place where a rushing mountain stream flows out of the jungle in a series of stunning waterfalls and disappears into a lush green wall. The stream is crossed by a magnificent iron bridge, and from there, a smooth road of crushed stone leads all the way to Bhamo.

What a difference between the country we were leaving and the one we were about to enter! It is the "deadly parallel" of the old East and the new West. On the one side is China with her flooded roads and bridges of rotting timber, the outward and visible signs of a nation still living in the Middle Ages, fighting progress, shackled by the iron doctrines of Confucius to the long dead past. Across the river is English Burma, with eyes turned forward, ever watchful of the welfare of her people, her iron bridges and macadam roads representing the very essence of modern thought and progress.

What a contrast between the country we were leaving and the one we were about to enter! It's the "deadly parallel" of the old East and the new West. On one side is China, with its flooded roads and decaying wooden bridges, visible signs of a nation still stuck in the Middle Ages, resisting progress, chained by the rigid beliefs of Confucius to a long-gone past. Across the river is English Burma, looking ahead, always focused on the well-being of its people, its steel bridges and paved roads embodying the essence of modern thinking and advancement.

With paternal care of her officials the British government has provided dâk (mail) bungalows at the end of each day's journey which are open to every foreign traveler. They are comfortable little houses set on piles. Each one has a spacious living room, with a large teakwood table and inviting lounge chairs. In a corner stands a cabinet of cutlery, china, and glass, all clean and in perfect order. The two bedrooms are provided with adjoining baths and a covered passageway connects the kitchen with the house. All is ready for the tired traveler, and a boy can be hired for a - 320 - trifling sum to make the punkah "punk." Such comforts can only be appreciated when one has journeyed for months in a country where they do not exist.

With thoughtful care from its officials, the British government has set up mail bungalows at the end of each day's journey that are open to all foreign travelers. They are cozy little houses elevated on stilts. Each one features a spacious living room with a large teak table and comfortable lounge chairs. In one corner, there’s a cabinet with cutlery, china, and glassware, all clean and neatly organized. The two bedrooms come with adjoining bathrooms, and there’s a covered walkway connecting the kitchen to the house. Everything is prepared for the weary traveler, and you can hire a boy for a small amount to make the fan work. These comforts can only be truly appreciated after spending months in a place where they are not available.

Our last night on the road was spent at a dâk bungalow near a village only a few miles from Bhamo. We were seated at the window, when, with a rattle of wheels, the first cart we had seen in nine months passed by. That cart brought to us more forcibly than any other thing a realization that the Expedition was ended and that we were standing on the threshold of civilization.

Our final night on the road was spent at a dâk bungalow near a village just a few miles from Bhamo. We were sitting by the window when, with a clatter of wheels, the first cart we had seen in nine months drove by. That cart made it clear to us, more than anything else, that the Expedition was over and we were about to step into civilization.

As Yvette turned from the window her eyes were wet with unshed tears, and a lump had risen in my throat. Not all the pleasures of the city, the love of friends or relatives, could make us wish to end the wild, free life of the year gone by. Silently we left the house and walked across the sunlit road into a grove of graceful, drooping palms; a white pagoda gleamed between the trees, and the pungent odor of wood smoke filled the air.

As Yvette turned away from the window, her eyes were filled with unshed tears, and I felt a lump rising in my throat. None of the joys of the city, the love of friends or family, could make us want to give up the wild, free life of the past year. We quietly left the house and walked across the sunlit road into a grove of elegant, drooping palms; a white pagoda shimmered between the trees, and the sharp scent of wood smoke filled the air.

The spot was redolent with the atmosphere of the lazy East; the East which, like the fabled "Lorelei," weaves a mystic spell about the wanderer whom she has loved and taken to her heart, while yet he feels it not. And when he would cast her off and return to his own again she knows full well that her subtle charm will bring him back once more.

The place was filled with the vibe of the laid-back East; the East that, like the legendary "Lorelei," casts a magical allure over the traveler she has embraced, even if he doesn't realize it. And when he tries to shake her off and go back to where he belongs, she knows that her delicate enchantment will draw him back in again.

The next morning we entered Bhamo. It is a city of low, cool houses, wide lawns and tree-decked streets built on the bank of the muddy Irawadi River. Only a few miles away the railroad reaches Katha, and palatial steamers run to Mandalay and Rangoon. We called upon Mr. Farmer, the Deputy Commissioner, who offered the hospitality of the "Circuit House" and in the evening took us with him to the Club.

The next morning we arrived in Bhamo. It's a city with low, cool houses, spacious lawns, and tree-lined streets along the muddy Irawadi River. Just a few miles away, the railroad connects to Katha, and luxurious steamers travel to Mandalay and Rangoon. We visited Mr. Farmer, the Deputy Commissioner, who welcomed us to the "Circuit House" and took us to the Club in the evening.

Map 2: Route of the Expedition in Yün-nan
Click on the image to see it in a larger size.

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A military band was playing and men in white, well-dressed women, and officers in uniform strolled about or sipped iced drinks beside the tennis court. We felt strange and shy but doubtless we seemed more strange to them for we were newly come from a far country which they saw only as a mystic, unknown land.

A military band was playing, and men in white, well-dressed women, and officers in uniform were walking around or sipping iced drinks by the tennis court. We felt out of place and shy, but we probably seemed even stranger to them because we had just arrived from a distant country that they viewed as a magical, unfamiliar place.

On June 9, at noon, we embarked for the 1,200-mile journey to Rangoon, exactly nine months after we had ridden away from Yün-nan Fu toward the Mountain of Eternal Snow. Our further travels need not be related here. When we reached civilization we expected that our transport difficulties were ended; instead they had only begun. India was well-nigh isolated from the Pacific and to expose our valuable collection to the attacks of German pirates in the Mediterranean and Atlantic was not to be considered even though it necessitated traveling two thirds around the world to reach America safely.

On June 9, at noon, we set off on the 1,200-mile trip to Rangoon, exactly nine months after we had left Yün-nan Fu heading towards the Mountain of Eternal Snow. We won't go into detail about our further travels. When we finally got to civilization, we thought our transport issues were over; instead, they were just beginning. India was nearly cut off from the Pacific, and we couldn't risk our valuable collection being attacked by German pirates in the Mediterranean and Atlantic, even though it meant we had to travel two-thirds of the way around the world to safely reach America.

We left Rangoon for Calcutta, crossed India with all our baggage to Bombay, and after a seemingly endless wait eventually succeeded in arriving at Hongkong by way of Singapore. There we separated from our faithful Wu and sent him to his home in Foochow. It was hard to say "good-by" to Wu, for his efficient service, his enthusiastic interest in the work of the Expedition, and, above all, his willingness to do whatever needed to be done, had won our gratitude and affection. We ourselves went northward to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver, and overland to New York, arriving on October 1, 1917, nearly nineteen months from the time we left. We were never separated from our collections - 322 - for, had we left them, I doubt if they would ever have reached America. It was difficult enough to gather them in the field, but infinitely more so to guide the forty-one cases through the tangled shipping net of a war-mad world.

We left Yangon for Kolkata, crossed India with all our luggage to Mumbai, and after what felt like an endless wait, finally arrived in Hong Kong via Singapore. There, we parted ways with our loyal Wu and sent him back to his home in Fuzhou. It was tough to say "goodbye" to Wu because his efficient service, enthusiastic interest in the Expedition's work, and, above all, his readiness to do whatever needed to be done had earned our gratitude and affection. We headed north to Japan, crossed the Pacific to Vancouver, and traveled overland to New York, arriving on October 1, 1917, nearly nineteen months after we left. We never separated from our collections—had we left them behind, I doubt they would have ever made it to America. It was challenging enough to gather them in the field, but it was infinitely harder to navigate the forty-one cases through the tangled shipping networks of a war-torn world. 322

They reached New York without the loss of a single specimen and are now being prepared in the American Museum of Natural History for the study which will place the scientific results of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition before the public.

They arrived in New York without losing a single specimen and are currently being prepared at the American Museum of Natural History for the study that will present the scientific findings of the Asiatic Zoological Expedition to the public.

The story of our travels is at an end. Once more we are indefinable units in a vast work-a-day world, bound by the iron chains of convention to the customs of civilized men and things. The glorious days in our beloved East are gone, and yet, to us, the Orient seems not far away, for the miles of land and water can be traversed in a thought. Again we stand before our tent with the fragrant breath of the pines about us, watching the glistening peaks of the Snow Mountain turn purple and gold in the setting sun; again, we feel the mystic spell of the jungle, or hear the low, sweet tones of a gibbon's call. We have only to shut our eyes to bring back a picture of the bleak barriers of the Forbidden Land or the sunlit streets of a Burma village. Thank God, we saw it all together and such blessed memories can never die.

The story of our travels has come to an end. Once again, we are just individuals in a busy, everyday world, bound by the strict rules of society to the customs of civilized people and things. The wonderful days in our beloved East are behind us, yet the Orient feels close because we can cross the miles of land and water in our minds. Once more, we stand in front of our tent, surrounded by the fragrant scent of the pines, watching the glimmering peaks of the Snow Mountain transform into shades of purple and gold at sunset; once again, we feel the enchanting magic of the jungle or hear the soft, sweet sounds of a gibbon's call. All we need to do is close our eyes to bring back images of the harsh barriers of the Forbidden Land or the sun-kissed streets of a village in Burma. Thank goodness we experienced it all together, and such cherished memories will never fade.

- 323 -

INDEX

Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 76
Abertsen, Mr., Chinese Customs, employee of, 290, 294;
discovered hunting ground near Hui-yao, 298;
killed two gorals, 298
Africa, 4
Akeley, Carl E., 4, 76
Alaska, 4
Allen, Dr. J. A., x
American flags, 43
American Legation, Peking, xi
American Museum Journal, ix
American Museum of Natural History, 2, 5, 77, 200;
trustees of, specimens being prepared at, 321
Americans, 11
Ammunition, loss of, 79
Amoy, 16
Anas boscas (Mallard ducks), 186
Anglo-Chinese College, 4
Animal life, lack of, 89
Annamits, 78
Antlers, 306, 312
Ape, gray (Pygathrix), 255
Apodemus (white-footed mouse), 122, 176
Asia, x
Asia Magazine, quoted from, 152
Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition, 2;
members of, 8
Assam, 241
Assistants, 4
A-tun-tzu, 198, 294

Babies, killing and selling of, 206
Baboon, brown (Macacus), 255
Baboon, Indian (Macacus rhesus), 279
Bamboo chickens, 26
Bandits, attack of, 95
Bankhardt, Mr., 82, 40, 42, 207
Bat apartment house, 80
Bat cave, description of, 29;
experience of girl in, 81
Bats, method of killing, 80
Batrachians, 310
Bear cubs (Ursus tibetanus), purchased at Teng-yueh, 296
Bedding, 93
Berger, Anna Katherine, acknowledgment to, xi
Bering Strait, 1
Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Charles L., x
Betel nut, 241, 242
Bhamo, 294, 315, 317, 319;
railroad from, 81;
road to, 318;
description of, 320
Big Ravine, description of, 26;
temples near, 26
Birds, game, 90
- 324 - Blarina, 176
Boat, Chinese, eye on, 15
Bode, Mr., 99
Bohea Hills, 64
Bound feet, 34
Bowdoin, George, x
Bradley, Dr., 78;
established leper hospital at Paik-hoi, 205
Brahmin priests, 186
Brahminy docks, 186;
habits of, 187
Bridge, suspension, description of, 218
Bridges, rope, 199
Brigand, seal of a pardoned, 210
Brigandage, 207, 208, 211
Brigands, 86;
beheading of, 41;
infest Yün-nan, 88;
description of, 96
British American Tobacco Co., Hongkong, 97, 100
British East Africa, 4
Brooke, Englishman, killed by Lolos, 174
Buffaloes, 265;
water, 218
Bui-tao, 60, 61
Bureau of Foreign Affairs, Director of, x
Burial, expenses of, 89
Burma, 8, 91, 191;
border of, 197, 241;
girls of, 242, 248, 248;
mammals caught near, 250;
frontier of, 264, 265, 294, 316;
boundary of, 319
Burmans, 289, 241

Calcutta, 297, 321
Caldwell, Rev. Harry R., xi, 8, 17, 20, 21, 22, 28, 24, 26, 27, 28, 29;
letter from, 82;
house of, 86;
stationed at Futsing, 44;
tiger hunting, method of, 45, 46, 55, 56, 61, 64, 141;
obtains serows at Yen-ping, 142;
purchases serow skins in Fukien, 148, 152, 154, 207
California, 8
Callosciurus erythræus, 89, 280
Camera equipment, 75
Canadian Pacific R.R. Co., Hongkong, General Passenger Agent of, xi
Cantonese, chiefly of Shan stock, 262
Capricornulus crispus, 140
Capricornis sumatrensis, 141
Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes, 29, 141
Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi, 141
Caravan, robbing of, 96; buying of, 104; renting of, 104
Caravan ponies, 104
Caravans, distance traveled by, 158, 197
Cary, F. W., Commissioner of Customs, 4, 77
Casarca casarca (ruddy sheldrake), 186
Caverns, 162
Central Asia, 1
Central Asian plateau, 1
Cervus macneilli, 175
Chair-coolies, 317
- 325 - Chairs, description of, 92, 317
Chang, Dr., 294
Chang-hu-fan, 20; night at, 21
Changlung, 273;
ferry at, 274, 281
Chien-chuan, 198
Chi-li, 7
China, 1, 2;
aboriginal inhabitants of, 3;
press, 13;
inland mission, 78, 101
Chinaman, Cantonese, 242
Chinese, Republic, xi, 2;
army of, 7;
face saving, 11;
Foreign Office, 11;
screaming, habit of, 15;
lack of sympathy of, 19;
not affected by sun, 22;
love of companionship, 22;
bride of, 69;
wedding of, 72;
dress of, 72;
Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, meeting with, 82;
education of, 88;
villages, description of, 90;
etiquette of, 102, 158, 190;
New Year, 212, 213, 214;
collecting debts of, 216
Chipmunk (Tamiops macclellandi), 230
Chi-yuen-kang, 26, 27, 29
Chou Chou, 99
Christians, native, persecution of, 21
Christianity, lesson in, 39
Christmas, 195;
celebration of, 196
Chu-hsuing Fu, 94, 204
Chung-tien, 172, 175, 176, 183, 201
Civet (Viverra), 246, 247
Clive, Captain, 268, 270, 272
Clothing, 75
Colgate, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M., x
Collecting case, 228
Color plates, 240
Confucius, rules of, 67
Cook, difficulty in obtaining, 17;
description of, 105
Coolies, 54
Cormorants, 280
Corn, 91
Cows, used as burden-bearers by Chinese, 218
Cranes, 184; habits of, 185, 199, 236
Crossbows, 229
Cui-kau, 18;
description of, 80

Da-Da, 45, 54
Daing-nei, 54, 66
Dâk (mail) bungalows, 319
Da-Ming, 33
Darjeeling, 144
Davies, Major H. R., ix, 93;
quoted, 137, 138, 139, 191
Dead, burying of, 151
Deer, 246, 301, 312, 313
Deer, barking, 63
Denby, Hon. Charles, 9
Dennet, Tyler, quoted, 152
D'Ollone, Major, member French Expedition, 174
D'Orleans, Prince Henri, 186
Dog, red, death of, 135
Dogs, description of, 115;
for food, 115
- 326 - Doumer, M., Governor-General of French Indo-China, 93
Duai Uong, 51
Ducks, 90, 198;
brahminy, shooting off 199
Dupontès, Georges Chemin, assistance of, to expedition, 80

Eastes, Mr., Consul, 294
Education, foreign, 71
Elaphodus, 182
Elephants, 219, 222
Elk, 1
Ellsworth, Lincoln, x
Embry, Rev. and Mrs., China Inland Mission, members of, 294
Empress Dowager, 70;
issued edict prohibiting opium growing, 91
Equipment, purchase of, 4
Erh Hai or Ta-li Fu Lake, 199
Etiquette, 102
Europe, 1
European war, 8
Evans, H. G., xi;
assistance of, 100, 106, 186, 200, 298
Expedition, announcement of, 5;
applicants for positions on, 5;
results of, 316
Expeditions, preliminary, 2
Eye on Chinese boat, 15

Farmer, Mr., 320
Fauna, mammalian, 316
Felis temmincki, 108
Felis uncia, 108
Ferry, 160
Fletcher, H. G., 294, 295
Flying squirrel, 108, 191
Foochow, 8, 10, 11, 15, 16;
foreign residents of, 17;
streets of, 17, 23, 24, 85, 40;
mail from, 48;
schools for native girls at, 67;
woman's college at, 67, 206, 207, 209, 321
Food box, 74
Foot binding, origin of, 69;
method of, 70;
Natural Foot Society of, 70;
agitation against, 71
Forbidden City, 12
Ford, James B., x
Foreign Office, 97
Forest conservation, lack of, 88
Formosa, 11
Forrest, Mr., 294
Fossil animals, 108;
beds, 108
Francolins, 26
French Consul, 78
Frick, Childs, x
Frick, Henry C, x
Fukien Province, China, 8, 6, 10;
deforestation of, 24;
mammals of, 25, 26, 28, 29;
climate and temperature of, 68;
collecting in summer at, 68;
birds of, 64;
herpetology of, 64;
trapping for small mammals at, 64;
zoölogical study of, 64;
language of, 65;
travel in, 65;
servants in, 65;
serows hunted in, 148, 204;
missionary work in, 207
Funeral customs, 151, 158
- 327 - Futsing, 43;
blue tiger hunting at, 54

Galapagos Islands, 4
Gallus gallus, 247
Gallus lafayetti, 248
Gallus sonnerati, 248
Gallus varius, 248
Gamblers, 215
Geese, 90, 198
Gen-kang, 224, 226, 229, 288
Gibbon (Hylobates), 258;
description of, 254, 255, 281, 284;
hunting of, 285
Goffe, Consul-General at Yün-nan Fu, 270
Goitre, prevalence of, 92
Gorals, 25, 76;
first hunt for, 120;
ceremonies at death of, 121, 123;
collecting for groups, 126;
color of, 126;
invisibility of, 128;
description of, 144;
horns of, 144;
distribution of, 144;
hunting of, 144, 194;
fighting of, 145;
habits of, 146;
feet of, 146, 194;
hunting of, at Hui-yao, 302, 309
Great Invisible, 44
Grierson, Ralph C, xi, 294, 295, 305, 317
Grus communis, 236
Grus nigricollis, 184

Habala, 164; hunting at, 165, 167
Haendel-Mazzetti, Baron, 113, 123, 126, 164
Hainan, description of, 77;
fauna of, 77
Haiphong, 77;
arrival at, 78, 79
Hanna, Rev. William J., xi, 79, 89, 101, 106, 201, 204, 205, 206, 294
Hanoi, description of, x, 79
Harper's Magazine, ix
Hartford, Mabel, 22, 23, 204
Heller, Edmund, 3, 4, 10, 61, 75, 79, 85, 94, 104, 105, 115, 116, 122,
123, 134, 135, 136, 146, 150, 161, 162, 173, 185, 195, 196, 227, 229,
247, 275, 276, 284, 291, 298, 299, 300, 306, 311, 312
Himalaya Mountains, 1
Hoi-hau, 77
Homes, 69
Ho-mu-shu, 281;
monkeys found near, 282, 283, 289, 291, 318
Hongkong, purchase of supplies at, 74, 200, 297, 321
Hoolock (Hylobates hoolock), 289
Hornbill, 245, 252
Horses, size of, 85, 104
Hospital attendants, 38
Hotenfa, 129, 130, 181, 182, 134, 185, 161, 171, 174, 193, 194, 195
Hsia-kuan, description of, 99, 108, 212
Hui-yao, 142, 145, 298, 300, 301, 306;
reptiles and lizards found at, 310, 313, 315
Hunan, 85, 86
Hung-Hsien, 11
Hunters, 114
- 328 - Hutchins, Commander Thomas, 10
Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), massacre at, 28
Hylobates, 254, 289
Hylomys, 281, 251
Hystrix, 116

India, 1, 57, 321
Inns, 98
Irawadi River, 81, 269, 297, 320

Japan, 5, 8
Japanese newspaper reporters, 6
Joline, Mrs. Adrian Hoffman, x
Jungle fowl, 247, 248;
habits of, 248, 280.

Kachins, 289, 269;
women, appearance of, 241
Katha, 320
Kellogg, C. R., xi, 11, 15, 17, 48, 61, 66
Kok, Rev. and Mrs. A., xi;
Pentecostal missionary, 108;
assistance of, 112, 204, 294
Koko-nor, 186
Koo, Wellington, 9
Korea, 6;
pheasants found in, 187
Kraemer, M., xi
Kucheng, 28
Kwang-si, 9
Kwei-chau Province, 8, 9, 137

Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong, 77
Lang, Herbert, photograph of serow loaned by, 144
Languages and dialects, number of, 138;
reason for, 188, 139
Langur, 255
Langurs (Pygathrix), 257, 258
Lao-kay, first hotel on railroad, 81
Lapwings, 199
Las, 239
Lashio, 269
Legge, Prof. J., quoted, 68
Leopards, 25, 64
Leper hospital, 78
Li, length of, 84
Li-chiang, 96;
animal life on route to, 107;
arrival at, 107;
camp in, 108;
collecting in, 109;
mammals of, 109;
important fur market at, 110;
inhabitants of, 117;
return to, 150, 155, 157, 190, 196, 254, 257
Li-Hung Chang, 7
Ling-suik, monastery of, 61;
description of, 62;
priests at, 62;
collecting at, 63
Lisos, 191, 289, 292
Livingstone, H. W., xi, 19
Loads, weight of, 54
Lolos, 8, 184, 186;
depredations of, 137;
independence of, 188, 170;
dress of, 178;
capes worn by, 174, 188, 190
London Zoölogical Society's Garden, 141
Long Ravine, blue tiger seen at, 57
Lucas, Dr. F. A., acknowledgement to, x
- 329 - Lui, Mr., salt commissioner at Hsia-kuan, 99
Lung-ling, 281, 282, 294
Lung-tao, 45, 54, 60, 63
Lutzus, 191, 292

McMurray, J. V. A., xi
Macacus rhesus, 258, 279, 305
Mafus, description of, 87
Mail, 290
Malaria, 274, 291
Malay Peninsula, 57
Ma-li-ling, 264, 266
Ma-li-pa, 265;
poppy fields at, 267, 269, 270, 272, 273
Mallard ducks, 186, 199
Mammals, small, importance of, 110;
preparing of, 227
Man, primitive, migrations of, 1
Man-eater, killing of, 49
Mandalay, 320
Mandarins, relations with, 102, 243
Ma-po-lo, low valley at, 225;
game at, 226;
fog in, 226
Marco Polo, 104
Massacre in Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), 23
Meadow vole (Microtus), 118, 122
Mekong, 191, 197
Mekong river, description of, 192, 193, 201, 292
Mekong-Salween divide, 190
Mekong valley, 177, 182;
vegetables in, 193;
zoölogy of, 193
Meng-ting, 226, 233;
description of, 236;
mandarin of, 236;
Buddhist monastery at, 238;
market at, 238;
Cantonese visit and buy opium at, 242;
fog at, 244;
valley at, 244;
birds at, 244
Mergansers, 186
Methodist mission, 24
Mexico, 4
Miao village, 273
Mice, 176
Micromys, 192
Microtus, meadow vole, 118, 122, 173
Min River, 15;
life on, 19, 88, 204
Mission hospital, 36;
China Inland, 101
Missionaries, 35, 40, 59, 67, 202;
servants of, 203;
natives trading with, 205;
civilizing influence of, 206
Mohammedan Chinese, married to a Shan, 246
Mohammedan hunter, 261, 264
Mohammedan war, 101
Mole, 176
Molloy, Agnes F., acknowledgment to, xi
Money, carrying of, 97;
transmitting of, 97
Monkey, 192, 195
Monkey temple, 258
Moose, 1
Morgan, Cordelia, 94, 95, 204
- 330 - Mosos, 110;
description of, 111, 155, 165;
capes worn by, 174, 190, 229
Motion pictures, 76;
developing of, 315
Mountain goat, 1
"Mountain Goat Hunting with Camera," quoted from, 147
Mouse (Micromys), 192
Moving picture film, 166
Mu-cheng, 229, 238
Muntjac, description of, 28, 132, 225, 258, 292
Museum authorities, 9
Mustelidæ, 250
Myitkyina district, 269

Næmorhedus griseus, 144
Nam-ka, Shans at, 260;
description of, 260;
camp at, 264
Nam-ting River, ferry at, 235, 243;
camping at, 244, 245;
hunters at, 246;
camp on, 249;
polecat trapped at, 250;
monkeys, hunting at, 252;
hornbill, seen at, 253;
monkeys found at, 258;
Shans seen at, 260;
caravan crossed, 264, 284, 289, 291, 318
Namur, S. S., 297
Natives, 91;
inaccuracy of, 158
New York, return to, 321
Ngu-cheng, 205
Non-Chinese tribes, 3
North America, 1
Northern soldiers, 35, 42
Northern troops, 40

Opium, 91;
growing of, 91;
inspection of, 91;
scandal, 91;
smuggling of, 91, 267;
smoking of, 318
Osborn, Henry Fairfield, quoted, 146, 147

Pack saddle, description of, 85
Pack, weight of, 85
Page, Howard, 82, 84, 200
Paget color plates, 166, 200, 316
Pagoda Anchorage, 15, 66
Paik-hoi, 78;
leper hospital at, 205
Palaungs, 239
Palmer, Mr., 290, 294
Pandas, coats of, 103
Pangolin, scales of, 103
Parrots, 244
Partridges, bamboo, 245
Passports, 11
Pavo cristatus, 277
Pavo munticus, 277
Peacock, black-shouldered, 279
Peacock, hunting of, 274;
habits of, 277;
eggs of, 277;
domestication of, 278
Peacock, Indian, 277
Peafowl, killed on Salween River, 277;
flesh of, 277
Peking, 6, 7, 11, 12, 82, 209
Petaurista yunnanensis, 103
Phasianidæ, 279
Pheasants, shooting of, 90;
Lady Amherst's, 150;
silver, 279;
horned, 291
Phete, 167; country about, 168;
- 331 - Photographic work, 166
Photographs in natural colors, 4
Photography, cinematograph, 316
Pigeons, 280
Pigs, killing of, 22;
wild, 25, 64;
treatment of, 90, 188
Pin-toil, 199
Pleistocene, 1
Pocock, Mr., 141
Polecat, 250
Polo, Marco, 176;
quoted, 219
Poppy blossoms, 265
Poppy fields, 91
Porcupine, description of, 115
Portable dark room, 166
Prjevalsky, Lieutenant-Colonel, 186
P'u-erh, 212
Pygathrix (monkeys), 192, 195, 258

Railroad, Hanoi to Yün-nan, 80;
description of, 81
Rain, last of the season, 185, 290, 315, 317
Rainey, Paul J., 4
Rangoon, 269, 272, 279, 320, 321
Ratufa gigantea, 251
Rebellion of 1918, 8
Reinsch, Hon. Paul, xi, 10, 11
Republic, 16
Rhododendrons, 291
Rice, 168
Rice fields, 89
Rifle, Mannlicher, 75, 256, 266, 300;
Savage, 75, 271;
Winchester, 60, 75
Riot in Shanghai, 152
Roads, descriptions of, 87
Rocky Mountain sheep, 1
Roosevelt, Colonel Theodore, 4
Rupicapra, 140
Rupicaprine antelopes, horns of, 140

Salt, preparation of, 196, 197
Salween River, 278, 278;
heat of, 280, 282, 288, 305
Sambur, 226, 229;
hunting of, 311;
blood of, 312
Sammons, Mr., American Consul-General, 12
Sampans, first night in, 20
San Francisco, 5
Scandinavian steamer, 11
Schools for native girls, 67
Sclater, Mr., 278
Screaming, Chinese habit of, 15
Sedan chairs, 16
Serows, 25;
hunt for, 27;
habits of, 29, 64;
hunting for, 184;
description of, 185;
color variation of, 186;
Japanese, 140;
difference from gorals, 140;
horns of, 141;
relationship of, 141;
appearance of, 141;
killed on Snow Mountain, 142;
obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping, 142;
distribution of, 142;
habits of, 148;
weight of, 148, 305;
hunting of at Hoi-yao, 306, 307, 308, 309
- 332 - Servants, wages of, 204
Shanghai, 11, 12;
riot in, 152, 316
Shans, 8, 225, 288, 242, 282;
description of village of, 284, 245;
houses of, 260;
heavily tattooed, 261;
tribes of, 262;
description of, 262, 288, 318
Sheldrakes, 186
Sherwood, George H., assistance rendered to Expedition by, x
Shia-chai, 218
Shih-tien, 223;
bird life at, 223;
natives, curiosity of, 224, 225
Shih-ku ferry, 182, 184
Shoverling, Daly & Gales, ammunition, guns, tents, furnished by, 4
Shrew, 178, 251
Shweli River, 145
Singapore, 321
Slave raiding, 189
Smith, Arthur H., quoted, 158, 214, 215
Snow Mountain, camp at, 112;
traveling to, 112;
description of hunters at, 114;
mammalogy of, 116;
camp on slopes of, 118;
mammals collected at, 127;
serows killed on, 142, 166, 176, 182, 184
Soldiers, guard of, 97;
guns of, 97;
expense of, 97;
use of, 97;
treatment by natives of, 98;
fight with, 187;
extortions of, 188
South America, 4
Specimens, packing of, 296, 315
Squirrel, flying (Petaurista yunnanensis), 291;
Ratufa gigantea, 251;
red-bellied (Callosciurus erythræus), 89, 280
S'suchuan Province, 8, 137, 174
S'su-mao, 178, 212
Standard Oil Co., xi;
launch of, 19, 82, 200
Su Ek, 207
Sun-birds, 244
Sung-kiang, S. S., 78

Tablets, ancestral, description of, 215
Tai-ping-pu, 291, 298
Taku, 160, 184
Taku ferry, 164
Ta-li Fu, soldiers guard to, 88;
road to, 99;
graves at, 100;
lake at, 100;
mandarin at, 100;
pagodas at, 100, 104, 105, 188, 186, 198, 200, 201
Ta-li Fu Lake, description of, 199
Tamiops macclellandi, 280
Taoist temple, 26
Tao-tai, 85
Tartars, 219, 221
Temple, camp in, 86
Teng-yueh, 4, 141, 289, 291, 298, 294, 295, 298, 318;
return to, 315, 317
Tents, 74
Tenyo Maru, 5, 9
Thompson, Dr., 205
Tibet, 8, 108, 172, 178;
monopoly of gold in, 181, 188
Tibetan plateaus, 191
- 333 - Tibetans, description of, 178;
photographing of, 179;
dislike for strangers of, 180;
influence of Chinese on, 181, 183, 190, 191, 212
Tiger, 22, 25, 64;
man-eating, 44;
lairs of, 45;
stalking a goat, 45;
habits of, 46;
daring of, 47;
strength of, 48;
excitement of hunting, 49;
weight of, 50;
blood of, 50;
skins in temples of, 51;
food of, 51;
hunting in lair of, 51;
flesh and bones of, 51;
marking trees by, 52;
skins of, 103
Tiger, blue, 8, 43, 55;
description of, 56;
hunting of, 57;
trying to trap, 60
Tonking, 3, 77, 81, 93, 178, 212
Tragopan, Temminck's, 291
Transportation, difficulties of, 321
Trapping, methods of, 110
Traps, steel, 75;
method of setting, 245
Trees, marking of, by tiger, 52
Tribes, non-Chinese, description of, 138
Trimble, Dr., 32;
house of, 34, 36, 37, 205, 207
Trowbridge, Captain Harry, 77, 78, 79
Tsai-ao, General, 9
Tsamba, 178
Ts'ang mountains, 100
Tsinan-fu, 12
Tupaia belangeri chinensis, 89

United States, 4
Universal Camera, 76
Ursus tibetanus, 296

Vegetarians, 23
Viverra, 246
Viverridæ, 247
Vochang, 218
Vole, 173
Von Hintze, Admiral, 11

Wapiti, 1, 175
War, Mohammedan, 101
Was, 239
Waterhole, 258
Wa-tien, 310, 313
Wei-hsi, 182, 187, 190, 196
White Water, 149;
camp at, 149;
weather at, 149
Wild boar, 258
Wilden, Henry M., French Consul, 82
Wolves, 25
Woman's college at Foochow, 67
Women, position of, in China, 67
Worship, ancestor, 156
Wu Hung-tao, interpreter, x, 4, 77, 87, 102, 105, 108, 123, 136, 168,
187, 191, 200, 213, 238, 267, 289, 294, 312, 318, 321

Yamen, 39
Yangtze River, 19, 81, 137, 150;
road to, 157;
crossing of, 161;
barrier to mammals, 163, 184, 187, 193, 201, 262
Yangtze gorge, description of, 160, 164, 167
- 334 - Yen-ping, 20, 22;
climate of, 24;
description of, 24;
residence of Mr. Caldwell at, 24;
Methodist Mission at, 24;
trapping at, 25;
rebellion in, 33;
refugees from, 33;
fighting in, 34;
attacked by rebels in, 35;
wounded in, 36;
schools for native girls at, 67;
Chinese wedding at, 72;
missionary buildings of, 203, 205, 207
Yokohama, 5
Yuan, 7, 8, 10, 12
Yuan Shi-kai, 7, 10;
death of, 12, 14, 34
Yuchi, 22;
brigands at, 23, 24, 35, 36, 204, 207, 208, 211
Yung-chang, Chinese New Year at, 212;
road to, 212, 214;
water buffaloes at, 218;
battle at, 218
Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road, 282
Yün-nan, xi;
size of, 2;
topography of, 3;
boundaries of, 3;
fauna of, 3;
natives of, 3;
language of, 3, 10, 25;
infested with brigands, 83;
zoölogical study of, 83;
meaning of, 88;
summer climate of, 99
Yün-nan Fu, 9;
foreign residents of, 82;
foreign office at, 97;
Dr. Thompson's hospital at, 205

Zoölogical Garden, Berlin, 144
Zoölogical Park, Calcutta, 144

Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 76
Abertsen, Mr., employee at Chinese Customs, 290, 294;
found hunting grounds near Hui-yao, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
hunted two gorals, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Africa, 4
Akeley, Carl E., 4, 76
Alaska, 4
Allen, Dr. J. A., x
American flags, 43
American Legation, Peking, xi
American Museum Journal, ix
American Museum of Natural History, 2, 5, 77, 200;
trustees of, specimens being prepared at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Americans, 11
Ammunition loss, 79
Amoy, 16
Anas boscas (Mallard ducks), 186
Anglo-Chinese College, 4
Animal life, lack of, 89
Annamits, 78
Antlers, 306, 312
Gray ape (Pygathrix), 255
Apodemus (white-footed mouse), 122, 176
Asia, x
Asia Magazine, quoted from, 152
Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition, 2;
members of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Assam, 241
Assistants, 4
A-tun-tzu, 198, 294

Babies, killing and selling, 206
Brown baboon (Macacus), 255
Indian baboon (Macacus rhesus), 279
Bamboo chickens, 26
Bandit attacks, 95
Mr. Bankhardt, 82, 40, 42, 207
Bat apartment building, 80
Bat cave, description of, 29;
girl's experience in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Bats, methods of killing, 80
Batrachians, 310
Bear cubs (Ursus tibetanus), bought at Teng-yueh, 296
Bedding, 93
Anna Katherine Berger, acknowledgment to, xi
Bering Strait, 1
Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Bernheimer, x
Betel nut, 241, 242
Bhamo, 294, 315, 317, 319;
railroad from __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
road to __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Big Ravine, description of, 26;
temples nearby, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Game birds, 90
- 324 - Blarina, 176
Chinese boat, keeping an eye on, 15
Mr. Bode, 99
Bohea Hills, 64
Bound feet, 34
George Bowdoin, x
Dr. Bradley, 78;
established leprosy hospital at Paik-hoi, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Brahmin priests, 186
Brahminy ducks, 186;
habits of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Suspension bridge, description of, 218
Rope bridges, 199
Brigand, seal of a pardoned one, 210
Brigandage, 207, 208, 211
Brigands, 86;
beheading of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
infestation in Yunnan, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
British American Tobacco Co., Hongkong, 97, 100
British East Africa, 4
Brooke, an Englishman, killed by Lolos, 174
Buffaloes, 265;
water buffaloes, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Bui-tao, 60, 61
Director of the Bureau of Foreign Affairs, x
Burial expenses of, 89
Burma, 8, 91, 191;
border of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
girls from, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__;
mammals trapped nearby, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
frontier of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__;
boundary of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Burmans, 289, 241

Calcutta, 297, 321
Rev. Harry R. Caldwell, xi, 8, 17, 20, 21, 22, 28, 24, 26, 27, 28, 29;
letter from __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
house of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
stationed at Futsing, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
tiger hunting techniques, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__;
gets serows at Yen-ping, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
purchases serow skins in Fujian, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__
California, 8
Callosciurus erythræus, 89, 280
Camera equipment, 75
General Passenger Agent of Canadian Pacific R.R. Co., Hongkong, xi
Cantonese, primarily of Shan origin, 262
Capricornulus crispus, 140
Capricornis sumatrensis, 141
Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes, 29, 141
Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi, 141
Caravan robbery, 96; buying of, 104; renting of, 104
Caravan ponies, 104
Caravans, distance traveled by, 158, 197
F. W. Cary, Commissioner of Customs, 4, 77
Casarca casarca (ruddy sheldrake), 186
Caverns, 162
Central Asia, 1
Central Asian plateau, 1
Cervus macneilli, 175
Chair-coolies, 317
325 Chairs, description of, 92, 317
Dr. Chang, 294
Chang-hu-fan, 20; night at, 21
Changlung, 273;
ferry at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Chien-chuan, 198
Chi-li, 7
China, 1, 2;
indigenous people of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
press, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
inland mission, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Cantonese people, 242
Chinese Republic, xi, 2;
army of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
face-saving, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Foreign Office, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
screaming habit of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
no sympathy from, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
not affected by sunlight, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
love of companionship, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
bride of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
wedding of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
dress of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Meeting of the Commissioner of Foreign Affairs with __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
education of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
villages, description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
etiquette for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__;
New Year, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__;
debt collection from __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Chipmunk (Tamiops macclellandi), 230
Chi-yuen-kang, 26, 27, 29
Chou Chou, 99
Native Christians, persecution of, 21
Christianity, lesson in, 39
Christmas, 195;
celebration of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Chu-hsuing Fu, 94, 204
Chung-tien, 172, 175, 176, 183, 201
Civet (Viverra), 246, 247
Captain Clive, 268, 270, 272
Clothing, 75
Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M. Colgate, x
Collecting case, 228
Color plates, 240
Confucius, rules of, 67
Difficulty obtaining cook, 17;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Coolies, 54
Cormorants, 280
Corn, 91
Cows, used as burden-bearers by the Chinese, 218
Cranes, 184; habits of, 185, 199, 236
Crossbows, 229
Cui-kau, 18;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Da-Da, 45, 54
Daing-nei, 54, 66
Dâk (mail) bungalows, 319
Da-Ming, 33
Darjeeling, 144
Major H. R. Davies, ix, 93;
quoted, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__
Dead, burial of, 151
Deer, 246, 301, 312, 313
Barking deer, 63
Hon. Charles Denby, 9
Tyler Dennet, quoted, 152
Major D'Ollone, member of French Expedition, 174
Prince Henri D'Orleans, 186
Death of red dog, 135
Dogs, description of, 115;
for food, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
- 326 - Governor-General Doumer of French Indo-China, 93
Duai Uong, 51
Ducks, 90, 198;
Brahminy, scoring 199
Georges Chemin Dupontès, assistance to expedition from, 80

Mr. Eastes, Consul, 294
Foreign education, 71
Elaphodus, 182
Elephants, 219, 222
Elk, 1
Lincoln Ellsworth, x
Rev. and Mrs. Embry, members of China Inland Mission, 294
Empress Dowager, 70;
issued decree banning opium farming, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Equipment purchase, 4
Erh Hai or Ta-li Fu Lake, 199
Etiquette, 102
Europe, 1
European war, 8
H. G. Evans, xi;
assistance from, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__
Expedition announcement, 5;
job applicants for __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
results of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Preliminary expeditions, 2
Eye on Chinese boat, 15

Mr. Farmer, 320
Mammalian fauna, 316
Felis temmincki, 108
Felis uncia, 108
Ferry, 160
H. G. Fletcher, 294, 295
Flying squirrel, 108, 191
Foochow, 8, 10, 11, 15, 16;
foreign residents of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
streets of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__;
mail from, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
schools for Indigenous girls at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
woman's college at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__
Food box, 74
Foot binding, origin of, 69;
way of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Natural Foot Society of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
protest against, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Forbidden City, 12
James B. Ford, x
Foreign Office, 97
Forestry conservation, lack of, 88
Formosa, 11
Mr. Forrest, 294
Fossil animals, 108;
beds, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Francolins, 26
French Consul, 78
Childs Frick, x
Henry C. Frick, x
Fukien Province, China, 8, 6, 10;
deforestation of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
mammals of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__;
climate and temperature of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
summer collection at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
birds of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
herpetology of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
trapping small mammals at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
zoological study of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
language of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
travel in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
servants in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
serows hunted in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
missionary work in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Funeral customs, 151, 158
327 Futsing, 43;
blue tiger hunting at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Galapagos Islands, 4
Gallus gallus, 247
Gallus lafayetti, 248
Gallus sonnerati, 248
Gallus varius, 248
Gamblers, 215
Geese, 90, 198
Gen-kang, 224, 226, 229, 288
Gibbon (Hylobates), 258;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__;
hunting __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Goffe, Consul-General at Yün-nan Fu, 270
Goitre, prevalence of, 92
Gorals, 25, 76;
first hunt for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
death ceremonies for __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
fundraising for groups, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
color of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
invisibility of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
horns of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
distribution of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
hunting of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
fighting over, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
habits of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
feet of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
hunting at Hui-yao, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Great Invisible, 44
Ralph C. Grierson, xi, 294, 295, 305, 317
Grus communis, 236
Grus nigricollis, 184

Habala, 164; hunting at, 165, 167
Baron Haendel-Mazzetti, 113, 123, 126, 164
Hainan, description of, 77;
wildlife of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Haiphong, 77;
arrival at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Rev. William J. Hanna, xi, 79, 89, 101, 106, 201, 204, 205, 206, 294
Hanoi, description of, x, 79
Harper's Magazine, ix
Mabel Hartford, 22, 23, 204
Edmund Heller, 3, 4, 10, 61, 75, 79, 85, 94, 104, 105, 115, 116, 122,
__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_7__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_8__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_9__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_10__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_11__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_12__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_13__,
__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_7__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_8__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_9__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_10__
Himalaya Mountains, 1
Hoi-hau, 77
Homes, 69
Ho-mu-shu, 281;
monkeys discovered near, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__
Hongkong, purchasing supplies at, 74, 200, 297, 321
Hoolock (Hylobates hoolock), 289
Hornbill, 245, 252
Horses, size of, 85, 104
Hospital attendants, 38
Hotenfa, 129, 130, 181, 182, 134, 185, 161, 171, 174, 193, 194, 195
Hsia-kuan, description of, 99, 108, 212
Hui-yao, 142, 145, 298, 300, 301, 306;
reptiles and lizards found at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
Hunan, 85, 86
Hung-Hsien, 11
Hunters, 114
328 Commander Thomas Hutchins, 10
Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), massacre at, 28
Hylobates, 254, 289
Hylomys, 281, 251
Hystrix, 116

India, 1, 57, 321
Inns, 98
Irawadi River, 81, 269, 297, 320

Japan, 5, 8
Japanese newspaper reporters, 6
Mrs. Adrian Hoffman Joline, x
Jungle fowl, 247, 248;
habits of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__.

Kachins, 289, 269;
women's appearance, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Katha, 320
C. R. Kellogg, xi, 11, 15, 17, 48, 61, 66
Rev. and Mrs. A. Kok, xi;
Pentecostal missionary, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
assistance from, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
Koko-nor, 186
Wellington Koo, 9
Korea, 6;
pheasants found in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
M., Kraemer, xi
Kucheng, 28
Kwang-si, 9
Kwei-chau Province, 8, 9, 137

Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong, 77
Herbert Lang, photograph of serow loaned by, 144
Languages and dialects, number of, 138;
reason for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Langur, 255
Langurs (Pygathrix), 257, 258
Lao-kay, first hotel on railroad, 81
Lapwings, 199
Las, 239
Lashio, 269
Professor J. Legge, quoted, 68
Leopards, 25, 64
Leper hospital, 78
Li, length of, 84
Li-chiang, 96;
wildlife along the way to, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
arriving at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
camp in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
collecting in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
mammals of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
important fur market at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
inhabitants of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
return to, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_5__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_6__
Li-Hung Chang, 7
Ling-suik, monastery of, 61;
description of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
priests at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
collecting at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Lisos, 191, 289, 292
H. W. Livingstone, xi, 19
Load weights, 54
Lolos, 8, 184, 186;
depredations of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
independence of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
dress of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
capes worn by __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
London Zoölogical Society's Garden, 141
Blue tiger seen at Long Ravine, 57
Dr. F. A. Lucas, acknowledgment to, x
329 Mr. Lui, salt commissioner at Hsia-kuan, 99
Lung-ling, 281, 282, 294
Lung-tao, 45, 54, 60, 63
Lutzus, 191, 292

J. V. A. McMurray, xi
Macacus rhesus, 258, 279, 305
Mafus, description of, 87
Mail, 290
Malaria, 274, 291
Malay Peninsula, 57
Ma-li-ling, 264, 266
Ma-li-pa, 265;
poppy fields at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__
Mallard ducks, 186, 199
Small mammals, importance of, i;
preparing for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Primitive man, migrations of, 1
Man-eater, killing of, 49
Mandalay, 320
Relations with mandarins, 102, 243
Ma-po-lo, low valley at, 225;
game at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
fog in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Marco Polo, 104
Massacre in Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), 23
Meadow vole (Microtus), 118, 122
Mekong, 191, 197
Mekong river, description of, 192, 193, 201, 292
Mekong-Salween divide, 190
Mekong valley, 177, 182;
veggies in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
zoology of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Meng-ting, 226, 233;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
mandarin from __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Buddhist monastery at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
market at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Cantonese people visit and buy opium at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
fog at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
valley at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
birds at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Mergansers, 186
Methodist mission, 24
Mexico, 4
Miao village, 273
Mice, 176
Micromys, 192
Microtus, meadow vole, 118, 122, 173
Min River, 15;
life on, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
Mission hospital, 36;
China Inland, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Missionaries, 35, 40, 59, 67, 202;
servants of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
natives trading with __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
civilizing influence of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Mohammedan Chinese married to a Shan, 246
Mohammedan hunter, 261, 264
Mohammedan war, 101
Mole, 176
Agnes F. Molloy, acknowledgment to, xi
Carrying money, 97;
transmitting, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Monkey, 192, 195
Monkey temple, 258
Moose, 1
Cordelia Morgan, 94, 95, 204
- 330 - Mosos, 110;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__;
capes worn by, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__
Motion pictures, 76;
developing __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Mountain goat, 1
"Mountain Goat Hunting with Camera," quoted from, 147
Mouse (Micromys), 192
Moving picture film, 166
Mu-cheng, 229, 238
Muntjac, description of, 28, 132, 225, 258, 292
Museum authorities, 9
Mustelidae, 250
Myitkyina district, 269

Næmorhedus griseus, 144
Nam-ka, Shans at, 260;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
camp at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Nam-ting River, ferry at, 235, 243;
camping at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
hunters at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
keep going, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
polecat trapped at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
monkeys hunting at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
hornbill, spotted at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
monkeys spotted at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Shans spotted at, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
caravan crossed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_4__
Namur, S. S., 297
Natives, 91;
inaccuracy of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Return to New York, 321
Ngu-cheng, 205
Non-Chinese tribes, 3
North America, 1
Northern soldiers, 35, 42
Northern troops, 40

Opium, 91;
growing of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
inspection of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
scandal, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
smuggling of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
smoking, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Henry Fairfield Osborn, quoted, 146, 147

Pack saddle, description of, 85
Pack, weight of, 85
Howard Page, 82, 84, 200
Paget color plates, 166, 200, 316
Pagoda Anchorage, 15, 66
Paik-hoi, 78;
leper hospital at __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Palaungs, 239
Mr. Palmer, 290, 294
Pandas, coats of, 103
Pangolin, scales of, 103
Parrots, 244
Bamboo partridges, 245
Passports, 11
Pavo cristatus, 277
Pavo munticus, 277
Black-shouldered peacock, 279
Peacock hunting, 274;
habits of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
eggs of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
domestication of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Indian peacock, 277
Peafowl, killed on Salween River, 277;
flesh of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Peking, 6, 7, 11, 12, 82, 209
Petaurista yunnanensis, 103
Phasianidae, 279
Pheasants, shooting of, 90;
Lady Amherst's, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
silver, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
horned, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Phete, 167; country about, 168;
- 331 - Photographic work, 166
Photographs in natural colors, 4
Cinematographic photography, 316
Pigeons, 280
Pigs, killing of, 22;
wild boars, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
treatment of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Pin-toil, 199
Pleistocene, 1
Mr. Pocock, 141
Polecat, 250
Marco Polo, 176;
quoted, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Poppy blossoms, 265
Poppy fields, 91
Description of porcupine, 115
Portable dark room, 166
Lieutenant-Colonel Prjevalsky, 186
P'u-erh, 212
Pygathrix (monkeys), 192, 195, 258

Railroad from Hanoi to Yün-nan, 80;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Last rain of the season, 185, 290, 315, 317
Paul J. Rainey, 4
Rangoon, 269, 272, 279, 320, 321
Ratufa gigantea, 251
Rebellion of 1918, 8
Hon. Paul Reinsch, xi, 10, 11
Republic, 16
Rhododendrons, 291
Rice, 168
Rice fields, 89
Mannlicher rifle, 75, 256, 266, 300;
Savage, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
Winchester, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Riot in Shanghai, 152
Descriptions of roads, 87
Rocky Mountain sheep, 1
Colonel Theodore Roosevelt, 4
Rupicapra, 140
Rupicaprine antelope horns, 140

Preparation of salt, 196, 197
Salween River, 278, 278;
heat of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__
Sambur, 226, 229;
hunting of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
blood of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__
Mr. Sammons, American Consul-General, 12
Sampans, first night in, 20
San Francisco, 5
Scandinavian steamer, 11
Schools for native girls, 67
Mr. Sclater, 278
Screaming, Chinese habit of, 15
Sedan chairs, 16
Serows, 25;
search for, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
habits of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
hunting for __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
description of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
color variation of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
Japanese, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
difference from gorals, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
horns of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
relationship with, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
appearance of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
killed on Snow Mountain, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
distribution of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
habits of __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
weight of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
hunting at Hoi-yao, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_3__
332 Servants' wages, 204
Shanghai, 11, 12;
riot in, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
Shans, 8, 225, 288, 242, 282;
description of the village of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__;
houses of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
heavily tattooed, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__;
tribes of, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__

Transcriber Note

Transcription Note

Minor typos corrected. Hyphenation was generally standardized to the most frequently utilized version. Text was rearranged to avoid splitting by images. The terms Irawadi and Irrawaddy seem to both apply to the same River and valley. Both names retained.

Minor typos fixed. Hyphenation was generally standardized to the most commonly used version. Text was rearranged to prevent splitting by images. The terms Irawadi and Irrawaddy appear to refer to the same river and valley. Both names have been kept.

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CAMPS AND TRAILS IN CHINA

CAMPS AND TRAILS IN CHINA

ROY CHAPMAN ANDREWS, M.A.

YVETTE BORUP ANDREWS

PREFACE

CONTENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

CAMPS AND TRAILS IN CHINA

CHAPTER I

CHAPTER II

CHAPTER III

CHAPTER IV

CHAPTER V

CHAPTER VI

CHAPTER VII

CHAPTER VIII

CHAPTER IX

CHAPTER X

CHAPTER XI

CHAPTER XII

CHAPTER XIII

CHAPTER XIV

CHAPTER XV

CHAPTER XVI

CHAPTER XVII

CHAPTER XVIII

CHAPTER XIX

CHAPTER XX

CHAPTER XXI

CHAPTER XXII

CHAPTER XXIII

CHAPTER XXIV

CHAPTER XXV

CHAPTER XXVI

CHAPTER XXVII

CHAPTER XXVIII

CHAPTER XXIX

CHAPTER XXX

CHAPTER XXXI

CHAPTER XXXII

CHAPTER XXXIII

CHAPTER XXXIV

CHAPTER XXXV

CHAPTER XXXVI

CHAPTER XXXVII

CHAPTER XXXVIII

INDEX

CAMPS AND TRAILS
IN CHINA

CAMPS AND TRAILS
IN CHINA

CAMPS AND TRAILS
IN CHINA