This is a modern-English version of Rural architecture : Being a complete description of farm houses, cottages, and out buildings, originally written by Allen, Lewis F. (Lewis Falley).
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RURAL ARCHITECTURE.
BEING A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION
OF
FARM HOUSES, COTTAGES,
AND
OUT BUILDINGS,
COMPRISING
WOOD HOUSES, WORKSHOPS, TOOL HOUSES, CARRIAGE AND WAGON HOUSES, STABLES, SMOKE AND ASH HOUSES, ICE HOUSES, APIARY OR BEE HOUSE, POULTRY HOUSES, RABBITRY, DOVECOTE, PIGGERY, BARNS AND SHEDS FOR CATTLE, &c., &c., &c.
TOGETHER WITH
LAWNS, PLEASURE GROUNDS AND PARKS; THE FLOWER, FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDEN. ALSO, USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL DOMESTIC ANIMALS FOR THE COUNTRY RESIDENT, &c., &c., &c.
ALSO,
THE BEST METHOD OF
CONDUCTING WATER INTO CATTLE YARDS AND HOUSES.
BY LEWIS F. ALLEN.
BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED.
NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON,
AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER.
1852.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852.
By Lewis F. Allen,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States
for the Southern District of New York.
Stereotyped by
JEWETT, THOMAS AND CO.
Buffalo, N.Y.
ADVERTISEMENT.
The writer of these pages ought, perhaps, to apologize for attempting a work on a subject, of which he is not a professional master, either in design or execution. In the science of Farm buildings he claims no better knowledge than a long practical observation has given him. The thoughts herein submitted for the consideration of those interested in the subject of Farm buildings are the result of that observation, added to his experience in the use of such buildings, and a conviction of the inconveniences attending many of those already planned and erected.
The author of these pages should probably apologize for trying to tackle a topic he isn’t a professional expert in, either in design or execution. Regarding the science of farm buildings, he doesn’t claim to have more knowledge than what many years of practical observation have provided. The ideas presented here for those interested in farm buildings come from that observation, along with his experiences using such buildings, and a belief in the issues that come with many of those that have already been designed and constructed.
Nor is it intended, in the production of this work, to interfere with the labors of the professional builder. To such builder all who may be disposed to adopt any model or suggestion here presented, are referred, for the various details, in their specifications, and estimates, that may be required; presuming that the designs and descriptions of this work will be sufficient for the guidance of any master builder, in their erection and completion.
Nor is it the goal of this work to interfere with the efforts of professional builders. Anyone interested in adopting any model or suggestion presented here is advised to consult these builders for the specific details needed in their plans and estimates. It is assumed that the designs and descriptions in this work will be adequate for guiding any master builder in their construction and completion.
iv But for the solicitation of those who believe that the undersigned could offer some improvements in the construction of Farm buildings for the benefit of our landholders and practical farmers, these pages would probably never have appeared. They are offered in the hope that they may be useful in assisting to form the taste, and add to the comfort of those who are the main instruments in embellishing the face of our country in its most pleasing and agreeable features—the American Farmer.
iv If it weren't for the encouragement from those who think that the undersigned could provide some enhancements in building Farm structures for the benefit of our landowners and practical farmers, these pages probably wouldn't exist. They are presented with the hope that they will be helpful in shaping preferences and increasing the comfort of those who play a key role in beautifying our country with its most attractive and enjoyable aspects—the American Farmer.
LEWIS F. ALLEN.
LEWIS F. ALLEN.
Black Rock, N.Y. 1851.
Black Rock, NY 1851.
Note.—For throwing the Designs embraced in these pages into their present artistic form, the writer is indebted to Messrs. Otis & Brown, architects, of Buffalo, to whose skill and experience he takes a pleasure in recommending such as may wish instruction in the plans, drawings, specifications, or estimates relating to either of the designs here submitted, or for others of any kind that may be adapted to their purposes.
Note.—For transforming the designs featured in these pages into their current artistic form, the writer is grateful to Messrs. Otis & Brown, architects from Buffalo. He is pleased to recommend them to anyone seeking guidance on the plans, drawings, specifications, or estimates related to the designs presented here, or for any other type of project that might suit their needs.
L. F. A.
LFA
CONTENTS.
Headings in the Table of Contents are often different from the body text. All secondary indentations were added by the transcriber, representing text sections that have no distinct header. Line breaks were added when a single entry has two different links.
Headings in the Table of Contents are often different from the body text. All secondary indentations were added by the transcriber, representing text sections that don’t have a distinct header. Line breaks were added when a single entry has two different links.
There is no separate list of illustrations.
There isn't a separate list of illustrations.
Full-page plates have been placed before the discussion of each Design. The page number in the printed book is retained in the Table of Contents and some picture captions, and in marginal page numbers shown in parentheses. Floor plans of cottages and farm buildings have generally been moved to the Interior Arrangement sections; they were originally printed on the same page as the "Elevation".
Full-page images have been included before the discussion of each Design. The page number from the printed book is kept in the Table of Contents and some picture captions, as well as in the marginal page numbers in parentheses. Floor plans of cottages and farm buildings have mostly been relocated to the Interior Arrangement sections; they were originally printed on the same page as the "Elevation."
PREFATORY.
This work owes its appearance to the absence of any cheap and popular book on the subject of Rural Architecture, exclusively intended for the farming or agricultural interest of the United States. Why it is, that nothing of the kind has been heretofore attempted for the chief benefit of so large and important a class of our community as our farmers comprise, is not easy to say, unless it be that they themselves have indicated but little wish for instruction in a branch of domestic economy which is, in reality, one of great importance, not only to their domestic enjoyment, but their pecuniary welfare. It is, too, perhaps, among the category of neglects, and in the lack of fidelity to their own interests which pervades the agricultural community of this country, beyond those of any other profession—for we insist that agriculture, in its true and extended sense, is as much a profession as any other pursuit whatever. To the reality of such neglects they have but of late awaked, and indeed are now far too slowly wheeling into line for more x active progress in the knowledge pertaining to their own advancement. As an accessory to their labors in such advancement, the present work is intended.
This book exists because there hasn’t been an affordable and accessible guide on Rural Architecture specifically aimed at the farming community in the United States. It's unclear why no one has tried to create something like this for such a significant and sizable group as our farmers, unless it's because they’ve shown little desire for guidance in a field of domestic economy that is actually very important, not just for their home life but also for their financial well-being. It may also reflect a general neglect and lack of commitment to their own interests that seems to affect the agricultural community more than any other profession—because we believe that agriculture, in its true and broader sense, is just as much a profession as any other field. Only recently have they started to realize this neglect, and they are currently moving too slowly to actively engage in gaining knowledge that could help them progress. This work is meant to support them in that pursuit.
It is an opinion far too prevalent among those engaged in the more active occupations of our people,—fortified indeed in such opinion, by the too frequent example of the farmer himself—that everything connected with agriculture and agricultural life is of a rustic and uncouth character; that it is a profession in which ignorance, as they understand the term, is entirely consistent, and one with which no aspirations of a high or an elevated character should, or at least need be connected. It is a reflection upon the integrity of the great agricultural interest of the country, that any such opinion should prevail; and discreditable to that interest, that its condition or example should for a moment justify, or even tolerate it.
It's a common belief among those in more active jobs that everything related to agriculture and farm life is rural and uncivilized. This view is often supported by the frequent example set by farmers themselves, suggesting that ignorance, as they see it, is totally acceptable in this profession, and that it shouldn't be associated with any high or noble ambitions. It's a shame for the integrity of the agricultural sector in our country that such opinions exist and it's discrediting to that sector that its situation or examples could ever justify or allow for this mindset.
Without going into any extended course of remark, we shall find ample reason for the indifference which has prevailed among our rural population, on the subject of their own domestic architecture, in the absence of familiar and practical works on the subject, by such as have given any considerable degree of thought to it; and, what little thought has been devoted to this branch of building, has been incidentally rather than directly thrown off by those professionally engaged in the finer architectural studies appertaining to luxury and taste, instead of the every-day wants of a strictly agricultural population, and, of consequence, understanding but imperfectly the wants and conveniences of the farm house in its connection with the every-day labors and necessities of farm life.
Without going into a long discussion, it's clear why our rural population has been indifferent to their own domestic architecture: there just aren't enough practical and accessible resources on the topic from people who have really thought about it. The little attention that has been given to this type of building has mostly come from those focused on more refined architectural styles related to luxury and taste, rather than addressing the daily needs of a strictly agricultural community. As a result, they have a limited understanding of what a farmhouse needs to support the everyday work and necessities of farm life.
xi It is not intended, in these remarks, to depreciate the efforts of those who have attempted to instruct our farmers in this interesting branch of agricultural economy. We owe them a debt of gratitude for what they have accomplished in the introduction of their designs to our notice; and when it is remarked that they are insufficient for the purposes intended, it may be also taken as an admission of our own neglect, that we have so far disregarded the subject ourselves, as to force upon others the duty of essaying to instruct us in a work of which we ourselves should long ago have been the masters.
xi These comments are not meant to belittle the efforts of those who have tried to teach our farmers about this important area of agricultural economy. We are grateful for what they have achieved in bringing their ideas to our attention. When we say their efforts are not enough for the intended goals, it also highlights our own neglect; we have overlooked this topic ourselves, leaving it to others to take on the responsibility of teaching us something we should have already mastered a long time ago.
Why should a farmer, because he is a farmer, only occupy an uncouth, outlandish house, any more than a professional man, a merchant, or a mechanic? Is it because he himself is so uncouth and outlandish in his thoughts and manners, that he deserves no better? Is it because his occupation is degrading, his intellect ignorant, his position in life low, and his associations debasing? Surely not. Yet, in many of the plans and designs got up for his accommodation, in the books and publications of the day, all due convenience, to say nothing of the respectability or the elegance of domestic life, is as entirely disregarded as if such qualities had no connection with the farmer or his occupation. We hold, that although many of the practical operations of the farm may be rough, laborious, and untidy, yet they are not, and need not be inconsistent with the knowledge and practice of neatness, order, and even elegance and refinement within doors; and, that the due accommodation of the various things appertaining to farm stock, farm labor, and farm life, should have a tendency to elevate the social xii position, the associations, thoughts, and entire condition of the farmer. As the man himself—no matter what his occupation—be lodged and fed, so influenced, in a degree, will be his practice in the daily duties of his life. A squalid, miserable tenement, with which they who inhabit it are content, can lead to no elevation of character, no improvement in condition, either social or moral, of its occupants. But, the family comfortably and tidily, although humbly provided in their habitation and domestic arrangements, have usually a corresponding character in their personal relations. A log cabin, even,—and I speak of this primitive American structure with profound affection and regard, as the shelter from which we have achieved the most of our prodigious and rapid agricultural conquests,—may be so constructed as to speak an air of neatness, intelligence, and even refinement in those who inhabit it.
Why should a farmer, just because he’s a farmer, only live in a rough, strange house, any more than a professional, a merchant, or a mechanic? Is it because he’s so rough and outlandish in his thoughts and behavior that he deserves no better? Is it because his job is demeaning, his intellect lacking, his status in life low, and his associations degrading? Certainly not. Yet, in many of the plans and designs created for his comfort, in the books and publications of the time, convenience—let alone the respectability or elegance of home life—is completely overlooked as if such qualities have no connection with the farmer or his work. We believe that while many practical tasks on the farm may be tough, labor-intensive, and messy, they shouldn't contradict the knowledge and practice of neatness, order, and even elegance and refinement indoors. The proper accommodation of everything related to farm animals, farm work, and farm life should elevate the farmer's social standing, relationships, thoughts, and overall condition. How a man is housed and fed influences how he approaches his daily responsibilities. A run-down, miserable home, which its inhabitants feel content with, won’t lead to any improvement in character or conditions, either socially or morally, for those living there. However, a family that is comfortable and tidy, even if modest in their living arrangements, usually reflects a corresponding quality in their personal relationships. A log cabin—even one of these simple American structures, which I speak about with deep affection as the foundation of our remarkable agricultural achievements—can be designed to convey a sense of neatness, intelligence, and even refinement from those who live in it.
Admitting, then, without further argument, that well conditioned household accommodations are as important to the farmer, even to the indulgence of luxury itself, when it can be afforded, as for those who occupy other and more active pursuits, it is quite important that he be equally well instructed in the art of planning and arranging these accommodations, and in designing, also, the various other structures which are necessary to his wants in their fullest extent. As a question of economy, both in saving and accumulating, good and sufficient buildings are of the first consequence, in a pecuniary light, and when to this are added other considerations touching our social enjoyment, our advancement in temporal condition, our associations, our position and influence in life, and, not least, xiii the decided item of national good taste which the introduction of good buildings throughout our extended agricultural country will give, we find abundant cause for effort in improvement.
Admitting that well-conditioned housing is just as important for farmers—luxury included when possible—as it is for those in other, more active professions, it’s crucial that farmers are just as skilled in planning and organizing these spaces, as well as designing the other structures they need. From an economic standpoint, having good and sufficient buildings is vital for both saving and accumulating wealth. Adding to this are other factors related to our social enjoyment, our progress in life, our connections, our status and influence, and, importantly, the enhancement of national aesthetics that good buildings can bring to our vast agricultural areas. This gives us plenty of reason to strive for improvement.
It is not intended in our remarks to convey the impression that we Americans, as a people, are destitute of comfortable, and, in many cases, quite convenient household and farm arrangements. Numerous farmeries in every section of the United States, particularly in the older ones, demonstrate most fully, that where our farmers have taken the trouble to think on the subject, their ingenuity has been equal, in the items of convenient and economical arrangement of their dwellings and out-buildings, to their demands. But, we are forced to say, that such buildings have been executed, in most cases, with great neglect of architectural system, taste, or effect; and, in many instances, to the utter violation of all propriety in appearance, or character, as appertaining to the uses for which they are applied.
It's not our intention to give the impression that we Americans, as a people, lack comfortable and often quite practical household and farm setups. Many farms across the United States, especially the older ones, clearly show that when our farmers take the time to think about it, their creativity matches their needs for convenient and economical arrangements of their homes and outbuildings. However, we must point out that these structures have, in most cases, been built with a significant lack of architectural system, style, or visual appeal; and, in many instances, they completely disregard any sense of appropriateness in appearance or character related to their intended uses.
The character of the farm should be carried out so as to express itself in everything which it contains. All should bear a consistent relation with each other. The former himself is a plain man. His family are plain people, although none the less worthy, useful, or exalted, on that account. His structures, of every kind, should be plain, also, yet substantial, where substance is required. All these detract nothing from his respectability or his influence in the neighborhood, the town, the county, or the state. A farmer has quite as much business in the field, or about his ordinary occupations, with ragged garments, out at elbows, and a crownless hat, as he has to occupy xiv a leaky, wind-broken, and dilapidated house. Neither is he any nearer the mark, with a ruffled shirt, a fancy dress, or gloved hands, when following his plough behind a pair of fancy horses, than in living in a finical, pretending house, such as we see stuck up in conspicuous places in many parts of the country. All these are out of place in each extreme, and the one is as absurd, so far as true propriety is concerned, as the other. A fitness of things, or a correspondence of one thing with another, should always be preserved upon the farm, as elsewhere; and there is not a single reason why propriety and good keeping should not as well distinguish it. Nor is there any good cause why the farmer himself should not be a man of taste, in the arrangement and architecture of every building on his place, as well as other men. It is only necessary that he devote a little time to study, in order to give his mind a right direction in all that appertains to this department. Or, if he prefer to employ the ingenuity of others to do his planning,—which, by the way, is, in most cases, the more natural and better course,—he certainly should possess sufficient judgment to see that such plans be correct and will answer his purposes.
The character of the farm should be showcased in everything it includes. Everything should be connected in a consistent way. The farmer is an ordinary man. His family is made up of simple folks, but that doesn’t make them any less worthy, useful, or admirable. His buildings, no matter what kind, should also be simple yet solid where needed. None of this takes away from his respectability or his influence in the neighborhood, the town, the county, or the state. A farmer can work in the field or do his everyday tasks wearing worn-out clothes, a damaged coat, and a hat with no crown, just as much as he can live in a run-down, drafty, and falling-apart house. He doesn’t gain any more respect wearing a rumpled shirt, fancy clothes, or gloved hands while plowing with a pair of showy horses than he does living in an ostentatious, pretentious house, like those seen in prominent spots around the country. Both extremes are inappropriate, and one is just as absurd as the other when it comes to true propriety. There should always be an appropriate fit between things on the farm, just like anywhere else; and there’s no reason why propriety and good upkeep shouldn’t also define it. There’s also no reason why the farmer himself can’t have taste in the design and structure of every building on his property, just like others do. He just needs to spend a little time learning to properly guide his thoughts in this area. Or, if he prefers to hire someone else to do the planning—which is often the more natural and better approach—he should at least have enough judgment to ensure that those plans are sound and will meet his needs.
The plans and directions submitted in this work are intended to be of the most practical kind; plain, substantial, and applicable, throughout, to the purposes intended, and such as are within the reach—each in their kind—of every farmer in our country. These plans are chiefly original; that is, they are not copied from any in the books, or from any structures with which the writer is familiar. Yet they will doubtless, on examination, be found in several cases to resemble buildings, xv both in outward appearance and interior arrangement, with which numerous readers may be acquainted. The object, in addition to our own designs, has been to apply practical hints, gathered from other structures in use, which have seemed appropriate for a work of the limited extent here offered, and that may serve to improve the taste of all such as, in building useful structures, desire to embellish their farms and estates in an agreeable style of home architecture, at once pleasant to the eye, and convenient in their arrangement.
The plans and guidelines presented in this work are meant to be as practical as possible; straightforward, solid, and suitable for their intended purposes, and accessible to every farmer in our country. These plans are largely original; they aren’t taken from any books or any structures the author is familiar with. However, on closer inspection, they may resemble buildings, xv both in their appearance and layout, that many readers might recognize. Besides our own designs, we also aim to incorporate practical ideas drawn from other existing structures, which appear fitting for a work of this limited scope, and that may help enhance the taste of those who, in constructing useful buildings, wish to beautify their farms and properties with a pleasing style of home architecture that is both attractive and functional.
INTRODUCTORY.
The lover of country life who looks upon rural objects in the true spirit, and, for the first time surveys the cultivated portions of the United States, will be struck with the incongruous appearance and style of our farm houses and their contiguous buildings; and, although, on examination, he will find many, that in their interior accommodation, and perhaps relative arrangement to each other, are tolerably suited to the business and convenience of the husbandman, still, the feeling will prevail that there is an absence of method, congruity, and correct taste in the architectural structure of his buildings generally, by the American farmer.
The person who loves country living and truly appreciates rural landscapes will be taken aback by the unusual look and style of our farmhouses and their nearby structures when they first see the cultivated areas of the United States. Even though a closer look might reveal that many of these buildings are fairly suitable for the needs and convenience of farmers in terms of their interiors and overall layout, there remains a strong sense that there is a lack of order, consistency, and good taste in the design of these buildings by American farmers.
We may, in truth, be said to have no architecture at all, as exhibited in our agricultural districts, so far as any correct system, or plan is concerned, as the better taste in building, which a few years past has introduced among us, has been chiefly confined to our cities and towns of rapid growth. Even in the comparatively few buildings in the modern style to be seen in our farming districts, from the various requirements of 14 those buildings being partially unknown to the architect and builder, who had their planning—and upon whom, owing to their own inexperience in such matters, their employers have relied—a majority of such dwellings have turned out, if not absolute failures, certainly not what the necessities of the farmer has demanded. Consequently, save in the mere item of outward appearance—and that, not always—the farmer and cottager have gained nothing, owing to the absurdity in style or arrangement, and want of fitness to circumstances adopted for the occasion.
We can honestly say that we have no real architecture in our agricultural areas when it comes to any proper system or plan. The improved building styles that have emerged in recent years have mostly been limited to our rapidly growing cities and towns. Even among the few modern buildings found in farming areas, the various needs for those structures are not well understood by the architects and builders, who often lack experience in such projects and rely on their own limited knowledge. As a result, most of these homes have turned out, if not complete failures, certainly not meeting what farmers truly need. Therefore, aside from just the look of things—and that isn't guaranteed—the farmer and cottage owner haven't really benefited, due to the pointless styles or layouts and the lack of suitability to the local conditions.
We have stated that our prevailing rural architecture is discordant in appearance; it may be added, that it is also uncouth, out of keeping with correct rules, and, ofttimes offensive to the eye of any lover of rural harmony. Why it is so, no matter, beyond the apology already given—that of an absence of cultivation, and thought upon the subject. It may be asked, of what consequence is it that the farmer or small property-holder should conform to given rules, or mode, in the style and arrangement of his dwelling, or out-buildings, so that they be reasonably convenient, and answer his purposes? For the same reason that he requires symmetry, excellence of form or style, in his horses, his cattle, or other farm stock, household furniture, or personal dress. It is an arrangement of artificial objects, in harmony with natural objects; a cultivation of the sympathies which every rational being should have, more or less, with true taste; that costs little or nothing in the attainment, and, when attained, is a source of gratification through life. Every human being is 15 bound, under ordinary circumstances, to leave the world somewhat better, so far as his own acts or exertions are concerned, than he found it, in the exercise of such faculties as have been given him. Such duty, among thinking men, is conceded, so far as the moral world is concerned; and why not in the artificial? So far as the influence for good goes, in all practical use, from the building of a temple, to the knocking together of a pig-stye—a labor of years, or the work of a day—the exercise of a correct taste is important, in a degree.
We’ve pointed out that our current rural architecture looks mismatched; it could also be described as awkward, not aligned with proper guidelines, and often unpleasing to anyone who appreciates rural beauty. The reason for this is irrelevant, besides acknowledging the lack of attention and care given to the topic. One might wonder why it's important for farmers or small landowners to follow certain guidelines or styles in how they design their homes or outbuildings, as long as they're reasonably convenient and serve their purpose. The answer is the same reason they seek symmetry and quality in their horses, cattle, farm equipment, household items, or clothing. It's about arranging man-made objects to harmonize with natural ones; nurturing the appreciation that every rational person should have, to some extent, for good taste. This appreciation doesn’t have to cost much, and once achieved, it provides joy throughout life. Every person is, under normal circumstances, expected to leave the world slightly better, in terms of their actions and efforts, than they found it, using the abilities they’ve been given. This responsibility is acknowledged among thoughtful people in the moral realm; why shouldn't it apply to the artificial? When it comes to making a positive impact, whether it's constructing a grand building or just putting together a simple pigpen—a project that takes years or just a day—exercising good taste is important in varying degrees.
In the available physical features of a country, no land upon earth exceeds North America. From scenery the most sublime, through the several gradations of magnificence and grandeur, down to the simply picturesque and beautiful, in all variety and shade; in compass vast, or in area limited, we have an endless variety, and, with a pouring out of God's harmonies in the creation, without a parallel, inviting every intelligent mind to study their features and character, in adapting them to his own uses, and, in so doing, to even embellish—if such a thing be possible—such exquisite objects with his own most ingenious handiwork. Indeed, it is a profanation to do otherwise; and when so to improve them requires no extraordinary application of skill, or any extravagant outlay in expense, not to plan and to build in conformity with good taste, is an absolute barbarism, inexcusable in a land like ours, and among a population claiming the intelligence we do, or making but a share of the general progress which we exhibit.
In terms of physical features, no country on earth compares to North America. From the most breathtaking landscapes to those that are simply picturesque and beautiful, we have endless variety, whether in vast stretches of land or more limited areas. The region is filled with God's harmonies in creation, inviting every thoughtful person to explore these features and adapt them for their own use, potentially enhancing—if that’s even possible—such exquisite sights with their creativity. In fact, it's almost disrespectful to do otherwise. When improving these landscapes doesn’t require exceptional skill or significant expense, failing to design and build with good taste is simply barbaric and inexcusable in a country like ours, among a population that claims to be as intelligent as we do or that shares in the overall progress we showcase.
16 It is the idea of some, that a house or building which the farmer or planter occupies, should, in shape, style, and character, be like some of the stored-up commodities of his farm or plantation. We cannot subscribe to this suggestion. We know of no good reason why the walls of a farm house should appear like a hay rick, or its roof like the thatched covering to his wheat stacks, because such are the shapes best adapted to preserve his crops, any more than the grocer's habitation should be made to imitate a tea chest, or the shipping merchant's a rum puncheon, or cotton bale. We have an idea that the farmer, or the planter, according to his means and requirements, should be as well housed and accommodated, and in as agreeable style, too, as any other class of community; not in like character, in all things, to be sure, but in his own proper way and manner. Nor do we know why a farm house should assume a peculiarly primitive or uncultivated style of architecture, from other sensible houses. That it be a farm house, is sufficiently apparent from its locality upon the farm itself; that its interior arrangement be for the convenience of the in-door farm work, and the proper accommodation of the farmer's family, should be quite as apparent; but, that it should assume an uncouth or clownish aspect, is as unnecessary as that the farmer himself should be a boor in his manners, or a dolt in his intellect.
16 Some people believe that a house or building where a farmer or planter lives should resemble the products stored on their farm or plantation in shape, style, and character. We don't agree with this idea. There's no good reason for a farmhouse to look like a haystack or for its roof to mimic the thatched covering of wheat stacks, just because those designs are best for storing crops. The same goes for why a grocer's home should look like a tea chest, or why a shipping merchant's should resemble a rum barrel or cotton bale. We think that farmers and planters, based on their resources and needs, should have homes that are as well-designed and pleasant as anyone else's, not necessarily in the same style, but done their own way. We also see no reason why a farmhouse should adopt a distinctly primitive or rustic architectural style, setting it apart from other sensible homes. It's clear enough that it's a farmhouse based on its location on the farm itself; its interior should be arranged for indoor farm work and provide comfortable living for the farmer's family. But there's no need for it to look awkward or crude, just as there's no reason for the farmer to be rude or dull-witted.
The farm, in its proper cultivation, is the foundation of all human prosperity, and from it is derived the main wealth of the community. From the farm chiefly springs that energetic class of men, who replace the 17 enervated and physically decaying multitude continually thrown off in the waste-weir of our great commercial and manufacturing cities and towns, whose population, without the infusion—and that continually—of the strong, substantial, and vigorous life blood of the country, would soon dwindle into insignificance and decrepitude. Why then should not this first, primitive, health-enjoying and life-sustaining class of our people be equally accommodated in all that gives to social and substantial life, its due development? It is absurd to deny them by others, or that they deny themselves, the least of such advantages, or that any mark of caste be attempted to separate them from any other class or profession of equal wealth, means, or necessity. It is quite as well to say that the farmer should worship on the Sabbath in a meeting-house, built after the fashion of his barn, or that his district school house should look like a stable, as that his dwelling should not exhibit all that cheerfulness and respectability in form and feature which belongs to the houses of any class of our population whatever. Not that the farm house should be like the town or the village house, in character, style, or architecture, but that it should, in its own proper character, express all the comfort, repose, and quietude which belong to the retired and thoughtful occupation of him who inhabits it. Sheltered in its own secluded, yet independent domain, with a cheerful, intelligent exterior, it should exhibit all the pains-taking in home embellishment and rural decoration that becomes its position, and which would make it an object of attraction and regard.
The farm, when properly cultivated, is the foundation of all human prosperity, and it is the main source of wealth for the community. From the farm mainly comes that dynamic group of individuals who replace the weakened and physically declining masses constantly produced in our large commercial and manufacturing cities and towns. Without the ongoing influx of strong, healthy people from the countryside, the urban population would quickly become insignificant and frail. So, why shouldn't this essential, health-promoting, life-sustaining group of people have access to everything that contributes to social and material well-being? It's ridiculous for others to deny them, or for them to deny themselves, even the smallest of such advantages, or for any form of caste to try to separate them from any other class or profession with equal wealth, resources, or needs. It’s just as absurd to suggest that a farmer should worship on the Sabbath in a meeting-house that looks like his barn, or that his local schoolhouse should resemble a stable, as it is to suggest that his home shouldn't showcase the same warmth and respectability found in the houses of any other class in our society. Not that a farmhouse should look like a town or village house in character, style, or architecture, but it should embody, in its own unique way, all the comfort, calm, and tranquility that belong to the thoughtful and secluded work of its inhabitant. Nestled in its own private yet independent space, with a bright, intelligent exterior, it should reflect the effort put into home beautification and rural decoration that suits its status, making it a point of attraction and admiration.
RURAL ARCHITECTURE.
GENERAL SUGGESTIONS.
In ascertaining what is desirable to the conveniences, or the necessities in our household arrangement, it may be not unprofitable to look about us, and consider somewhat, the existing condition of the structures too many of us now inhabit, and which, in the light of true fitness for the objects designed, are inconvenient, absurd, and out of all harmony of purpose; yet, under the guidance of a better skill, and a moderate outlay, might be well adapted, in most cases, to our convenience and comfort, and quite well, to a reasonable standard of taste in architectural appearance.
When figuring out what works best for the comforts and needs of our home setup, it might be useful to take a look around and think about the current state of the buildings many of us live in. These structures, when assessed for their actual purpose, are often inconvenient, nonsensical, and completely out of sync with what we want. However, with a bit more expertise and a reasonable investment, most of these places could be improved to suit our convenience and comfort, as well as meet a sensible standard of architectural style.
At the threshold—not of the house, but of this treatise—it may be well to remark that it is not here assumed that there has been neither skill, ingenuity, nor occasional good taste exhibited, for many generations back, in the United States, in the construction of farm and country houses. On the contrary, there are found in the older states many farm and country houses 20 that are almost models, in their way, for convenience in the main purposes required of structures of their kind, and such as can hardly be altered for the better. Such, however, form the exception, not the rule; yet instead of standing as objects for imitation, they have been ruled out as antiquated, and unfit for modern builders to consult, who have in the introduction of some real improvements, also left out, or discarded much that is valuable, and, where true comfort is concerned, indispensable to perfect housekeeping. Alteration is not always improvement, and in the rage for innovation of all kinds, among much that is valuable, a great deal in house-building has been introduced that is absolutely pernicious. Take, for instance, some of our ancient-looking country houses of the last century, which, in America, we call old. See their ample dimensions; their heavy, massive walls; their low, comfortable ceilings; their high gables; sharp roofs; deep porches, and spreading eaves, and contrast them with the ambitious, tall, proportionless, and card-sided things of a modern date, and draw the comparison in true comfort, which the ancient mansion really affords, by the side of the other. Bating its huge chimneys, its wide fire-places, its heavy beams dropping below the ceiling overhead, and the lack of some modern conveniences, which, to be added, would give all that is desired, and every man possessed of a proper judgment will concede the superiority to the house of the last century.
At the door—not of the house, but of this essay—it’s worth noting that it’s not assumed there hasn’t been skill, creativity, or good taste shown for many generations in the United States in building farm and country houses. In fact, there are many older farm and country houses in the older states that are almost perfect examples of convenience for their intended purposes and could hardly be improved upon. However, these are exceptions rather than the rule; instead of being seen as models to follow, they’ve been dismissed as outdated and not suitable for today’s builders. In their push for some real improvements, many have discarded valuable elements that are essential for true comfort and good housekeeping. Change isn’t always an improvement, and in the frenzy for new ideas, a lot of harmful trends have entered house-building too. For instance, look at some of our old-fashioned country houses from the last century, which we in America consider “old.” Notice their spacious designs, thick, sturdy walls, low, cozy ceilings, tall gables, steep roofs, deep porches, and wide eaves, and compare them to the current tall, oddly shaped, boxy houses. When you truly compare the comfort of the old mansion to the modern ones, it’s clear that, aside from its large chimneys, wide fireplaces, heavy beams hanging from the ceiling, and a few missing contemporary conveniences that could easily be added, anyone with good judgment would agree that the houses from the last century are superior.
That American house-building of the last fifty years is out of joint, requires no better proof than that the 21 main improvements which have been applied to our rural architecture, are in the English style of farm and country houses of two or three centuries ago; so, in that particular, we acknowledge the better taste and judgment of our ancestors. True, modern luxury, and in some particulars, modern improvement has made obsolete, if not absurd, many things considered indispensable in a ruder age. The wide, rambling halls and rooms; the huge, deep fire-places in the chimneys; the proximity of out-buildings, and the contiguity of stables, ricks, and cattle-yards—all these are wisely contracted, dispensed with, or thrown off to a proper distance; but instead of such style being abandoned altogether, as has too often been done, the house itself might better have been partially reformed, and the interior arrangement adapted to modern convenience. Such changes have in some instances been made; and when so, how often does the old mansion, with outward features in good preservation, outspeak, in all the expression of home-bred comforts, the flashy, gimcrack neighbor, which in its plenitude of modern pretension looks so flauntingly down upon it!
That American house-building from the last fifty years is clearly out of sync, and the best proof is that the main improvements we’ve made to our rural architecture are based on the English style of farms and country houses from two or three centuries ago; in this regard, we acknowledge the superior taste and judgment of our ancestors. It’s true that modern luxury, and certain modern improvements, have made many things once seen as essential in a rougher time seem outdated or even ridiculous. The wide, sprawling halls and rooms; the large, deep fireplaces in the chimneys; the close placement of outbuildings, alongside stables, hayricks, and cattle yards—all of these have been wisely reduced, done away with, or moved to a more appropriate distance. However, instead of abandoning this style entirely—something that often happens—the house itself could have been partially updated, with the interior layout adjusted for modern convenience. In some cases, such updates have been made, and when they are, how often does the old mansion, with its well-preserved exterior, express all the warmth of home comforts, looking down on the flashy, tacky neighbor that, in its overwhelming modernity, tries so hard to show off!
We cannot, in the United States, consistently adopt the domestic architecture of any other country, throughout, to our use. We are different in our institutions, our habits, our agriculture, our climates. Utility is our chief object, and coupled with that, the indulgence of an agreeable taste may be permitted to every one who creates a home for himself, or founds one for his family. The frequent changes of estates incident to our laws, and the many inducements held out to our people to 22 change their locality or residence, in the hope of bettering their condition, is a strong hindrance to the adoption of a universally correct system in the construction of our buildings; deadening, as the effect of such changes, that home feeling which should be a prominent trait of agricultural character. An attachment to locality is not a conspicuous trait of American character; and if there be a people on earth boasting a high civilization and intelligence, who are at the same time a roving race, the Americans are that people; and we acknowledge it a blemish in our domestic and social constitution.
We can't consistently adopt the domestic architecture of any other country in the United States for our own use. We are different in our institutions, habits, agriculture, and climates. Utility is our main goal, and along with it, everyone who creates a home or establishes one for their family can also indulge in pleasing aesthetics. The frequent changes in property due to our laws and the various incentives encouraging people to relocate in search of better opportunities hinder the adoption of any universally correct system for constructing our buildings. These changes dampen the sense of home that should be a key aspect of our agricultural identity. Attachment to place is not a prominent feature of American culture; if there’s a group of people on Earth with high civilization and intelligence who are also nomadic, it’s the Americans, and we recognize this as a flaw in our domestic and social fabric.
Such remark is not dropped invidiously, but as a reason why we have thus far made so little progress in the arts of home embellishment, and in clustering about our habitations those innumerable attractions which win us to them sufficiently to repel the temptation so often presented to our enterprise, our ambition, or love of gain—and these not always successful—in seeking other and distant places of abode. If, then, this tendency to change—a want of attachment to any one spot—is a reason why we have been so indifferent to domestic architecture; and if the study and practice of a better system of building tends to cultivate a home feeling, why should it not be encouraged? Home attachment is a virtue. Therefore let that virtue be cherished. And if any one study tend to exalt our taste, and promote our enjoyment, let us cultivate that study to the highest extent within our reach.
Such a statement isn’t made out of envy, but to explain why we’ve made so little progress in improving our homes and creating the countless attractions that draw us to them enough to resist the temptation to seek out other, distant places to live. If this tendency to change—a lack of connection to any one place—is a reason for our indifference to domestic architecture, and if studying and practicing a better building system fosters a sense of home, then why shouldn’t we encourage it? A connection to home is a virtue. So, let’s cherish that virtue. And if any study can enhance our taste and increase our enjoyment, let’s pursue that study as much as we can.
STYLE OF BUILDING.—MISCELLANEOUS.
Diversified as are the features of our country in climate, soil, surface, and position, no one style of rural architecture is properly adapted to the whole; and it is a gratifying incident to the indulgence in a variety of taste, that we possess the opportunity which we desire in its display to almost any extent in mode and effect. The Swiss châlet may hang in the mountain pass; the pointed Gothic may shoot up among the evergreens of the rugged hill-side; the Italian roof, with its overlooking campanile, may command the wooded slope or the open plain; or the quaint and shadowy style of the old English mansion, embosomed in its vines and shrubbery, may nestle in the quiet, shaded valley, all suited to their respective positions, and each in harmony with the natural features by which it is surrounded. Nor does the effect which such structures give to the landscape in an ornamental point of view, require that they be more imposing in character than the necessities of the occasion may demand. True economy demands a structure sufficiently spacious to accommodate its occupants in the best manner, so far as convenience and 24 comfort are concerned in a dwelling; and its conformity to just rules in architecture need not be additionally expensive or troublesome. He who builds at all, if it be anything beyond a rude or temporary shelter, may as easily and cheaply build in accordance with correct rules of architecture, as against such rules; and it no more requires an extravagance in cost or a wasteful occupation of room to produce a given effect in a house suited to humble means, than in one of profuse accommodation. Magnificence, or the attempt at magnificence in building, is the great fault with Americans who aim to build out of the common line; and the consequence of such attempt is too often a failure, apparent, always, at a glance, and of course a perfect condemnation in itself of the judgment as well as taste of him who undertakes it.
Given the diverse characteristics of our country in terms of climate, soil, landscape, and location, no single style of rural architecture is truly suitable for all areas. It's pleasing to note that we have the chance to express a range of tastes in our designs to a great extent. The Swiss châlet can be found in mountain passes; Gothic buildings can rise amid the evergreens of rugged hills; Italian rooftops with their iconic campaniles can overlook wooded slopes or open plains; or the charming and shadowy style of old English mansions, nestled in their vines and shrubs, can fit perfectly in peaceful, shaded valleys. Each style is appropriate for its location and harmonizes with the natural features around it. Additionally, the impact of these structures on the landscape, from an aesthetic point of view, doesn’t require them to be any more grand than necessary. True practicality calls for a building that is spacious enough to comfortably accommodate its residents, focusing on convenience and comfort in a home. Following sound architectural principles doesn't have to be more costly or complicated. Anyone who builds beyond a simple or temporary shelter can design according to architectural guidelines just as easily and affordably as they could without them, and achieving a desired effect in a modest home requires no more expense or space than in a larger, more extravagant one. The pursuit of grandeur or trying to be extravagant in construction is a major issue for Americans looking to step outside the norm, and the result of these attempts often leads to failure, which is clear to see and ultimately reflects poor judgment and taste on the part of the builder.
Holding our tenures as we do, with no privilege of entail to our posterity, an eye to his own interest, or to that of his family who is to succeed to his estate, should admonish the builder of a house to the adoption of a plan which will, in case of the sale of the estate, involve no serious loss. He should build such a house as will be no detriment, in its expense, to the selling value of the land on which it stands, and always fitted for the spot it occupies. Hence, an imitation of the high, extended, castellated mansions of England, or the Continent, although in miniature, are altogether unsuited to the American farmer or planter, whose lands, instead of increasing in his family, are continually subject to division, or to sale in mass, on his own demise; and when the estate is encumbered with unnecessarily 25 large and expensive buildings, they become an absolute drawback to its value in either event. An expensive house requires a corresponding expense to maintain it, otherwise its effect is lost, and many a worthy owner of a costly mansion has been driven to sell and abandon his estate altogether, from his unwillingness or inability to support "the establishment" which it entailed; when, if the dwelling were only such as the estate required and could reasonably maintain, a contented and happy home would have remained to himself and family. It behooves, therefore, the American builder to examine well his premises, to ascertain the actual requirements of his farm or plantation, in convenience and accommodation, and build only to such extent, and at such cost as shall not impoverish his means, nor cause him future disquietude.
Holding our positions as we do, without any inheritance guarantees for our descendants, it’s important for a builder to consider his own interests and those of his family who will inherit the property. This should guide him to choose a plan that minimizes any potential loss if he needs to sell the estate. He should construct a house that won’t negatively impact the land’s value and is appropriate for the location. Therefore, trying to replicate the grand, sprawling mansions of England or Europe, even on a smaller scale, is not suitable for the American farmer or planter. Their lands are often divided among heirs or sold outright upon their death, and having unnecessarily large and expensive buildings can actually reduce the estate's value in these situations. An expensive house requires significant upkeep; otherwise, its appeal diminishes. Many owners of such costly mansions have been forced to sell and give up their properties altogether because they couldn’t or didn’t want to manage the “establishment” they entailed. If the home had only been built to meet the estate's needs and was manageable, it could have remained a comfortable and happy place for them and their family. Therefore, it’s essential for the American builder to carefully consider his situation, assess the real needs of his farm or plantation in terms of convenience and accommodation, and build only to a scale and cost that won’t strain his resources or cause future stress.
Another difficulty with us is, that we oftener build to gratify the eyes of the public than our own, and fit up our dwellings to accommodate "company" or visitors, rather than our own families; and in the indulgence of this false notion, subject ourselves to perpetual inconvenience for the gratification of occasional hospitality or ostentation. This is all wrong. A house should be planned and constructed for the use of the household, with incidental accommodation for our immediate friends or guests—which can always be done without sacrifice to the comfort or convenience of the regular inmates. In this remark, a stinted and parsimonious spirit is not suggested. A liberal appropriation of rooms in every department; a spare chamber or two, or an additional room on the ground floor, 26 looking to a possible increase of family, and the indulgence of an easy hospitality, should always govern the resident of the country in erecting his dwelling. The enjoyments of society and the intercourse of friends, sharing for the time, our own table and fireside, is a crowning pleasure of country life; and all this may be done without extraordinary expense, in a wise construction of the dwelling.
Another issue we have is that we often design our homes to impress the public rather than suit our own needs. We set up our houses to accommodate "company" or visitors, rather than focusing on our families. By indulging in this misguided idea, we put ourselves in constant discomfort just to host guests or show off. This approach is completely wrong. A house should be designed and built for the family living in it, with incidental space for our close friends or guests—which can always be achieved without sacrificing the comfort or convenience of the regular inhabitants. This does not mean we should be stingy. It’s important to allocate enough rooms in all areas; having a spare bedroom or two, or an extra room on the ground floor, in anticipation of a growing family and the ability to host guests comfortably should always guide a homeowner in the countryside when building their house. Enjoying social interactions and spending time with friends at our own table and fireside is one of the greatest joys of country life, and all this can be achieved without excessive costs through thoughtful home design.
The farm house too, should comport in character and area with the extent and capacity of the farm itself, and the main design for which it is erected. To the farmer proper—he who lives from the income which the farm produces—it is important to know the extent of accommodation required for the economical management of his estate, and then to build in accordance with it, as well as to suit his own position in life, and the station which he and his family hold in society. The owner of a hundred acre farm, living upon the income he receives from it, will require less house room than he who tills equally well his farm of three, six, or ten hundred acres. Yet the numbers in their respective families, the relative position of each in society, or their taste for social intercourse may demand a larger or smaller household arrangement, regardless of the size of their estates; still, the dwellings on each should bear, in extent and expense, a consistent relation to the land itself, and the means of its owner. For instance: a farm of one hundred acres may safely and economically erect and maintain a house costing eight hundred to two thousand dollars, while one of five hundred to a thousand acres may range in an expenditure 27 of twenty-five hundred to five thousand dollars in its dwelling, and all be consistent with a proper economy in farm management.
The farmhouse should match the character and size of the farm itself and the main purpose it's built for. For the farmer—who relies on the income from the farm—it's crucial to understand how much space is needed for effective management of his property. He should then construct the house accordingly, considering his lifestyle and the status he and his family hold in society. The owner of a hundred-acre farm, living off its income, will need less living space than someone who manages a three-, six-, or even a thousand-acre farm. However, the number of family members, each individual's social standing, or their preference for socializing may require different household arrangements, regardless of the size of their estates. Still, the homes should relate consistently in size and cost to the land itself and the owner's resources. For example: a hundred-acre farm can safely and economically build and maintain a house costing between eight hundred and two thousand dollars, while a farm of five hundred to a thousand acres could spend between twenty-five hundred and five thousand dollars on its dwelling, keeping everything aligned with good farm management. 27
Let it be understood, that the above sums are named as simply comporting with a financial view of the subject, and such as the economical management of the estate may warrant. To one who has no regard to such consideration, this rule of expenditure will not apply. He may invest any amount he so chooses in building beyond, if he only be content to pocket the loss which he can never expect to be returned in an increased value to the property, over and above the price of cheaper buildings. On the other hand, he would do well to consider that a farm is frequently worth less to an ordinary purchaser, with an extravagant house upon it, than with an economical one, and in many cases will bring even less in market, in proportion as the dwelling is expensive. Fancy purchasers are few, and fastidious, while he who buys only for a home and an occupation, is governed solely by the profitable returns the estate will afford upon the capital invested.
Let it be clear that the amounts mentioned above are based purely on a financial perspective and reflect what the responsible management of the estate might justify. For someone who doesn’t consider this aspect, this spending guideline won’t apply. They might choose to invest any amount they want in building a more extravagant property, but they should be prepared to accept any loss since they can’t expect to see that loss recovered through an increase in the property's value beyond what cheaper buildings would cost. Conversely, they should keep in mind that a farm with an extravagant house might actually be worth less to a typical buyer than one with a simpler, more economical home. In many cases, an expensive dwelling could lead to a lower market value in proportion to its cost. There are few buyers looking for luxury features; most people buy primarily for a home and to use the property, focusing instead on the financial returns the estate will provide based on their investment.
There is again a grand error which many fall into in building, looking as they do only at the extent of wood and timber; or stone and mortar in the structure, and paying no attention to the surroundings, which in most cases contribute more to the effect of the establishment than the structure itself, and which, if uncultivated or neglected, any amount of expenditure in building will fail to give that completeness and perfection of character which every homestead should command. Thus 28 the tawdry erections in imitation of a cast-off feudalism in Europe, or a copying of the massive piles of more recent date abroad, although in miniature, both in extent and cost, is the sheerest affectation, in which no sensible man should ever indulge. It is out of all keeping, or propriety with other things, as we in this country have them, and the indulgence of all such fancies is sooner or later regretted. Substance, convenience, purpose, harmony—all, perhaps, better summed up in the term EXPRESSION—these are the objects which should govern the construction of our dwellings and out-buildings, and in their observance we can hardly err in the acquisition of what will promote the highest enjoyment which a dwelling can bestow.
There’s a major mistake that many people make when building—they focus only on the quantity of wood, timber, stone, and mortar in the structure, completely ignoring the surroundings. In many cases, these surroundings contribute more to the overall impact of the property than the building itself. If these areas are left uncultivated or neglected, no amount of money spent on construction will achieve the completeness and character that every home should have. The cheap imitations of outdated European feudal architecture or the replica of massive modern buildings abroad, even when scaled down in size and cost, are nothing but pretentiousness that no sensible person should indulge in. They clash with everything else in our country, and giving in to such whims will eventually be regretted. Substance, convenience, purpose, and harmony—all of which can be summarized as EXPRESSION—should guide the construction of our homes and outbuildings. By keeping these principles in mind, we can ensure that we create spaces that truly enhance our living experience.
POSITION.
The site of a dwelling should be an important study with every country builder; for on this depends much of its utility, and in addition to that, a large share of the enjoyment which its occupation will afford. Custom, in many parts of the United States, in the location of the farm buildings, gives advantages which are denied in others. In the south, and in the slave states generally, the planter builds, regardless of roads, on the most convenient site his plantation presents; the farmer of German descent, in Pennsylvania and some other states, does the same: while the Yankee, be he settled where he will, either in the east, north, or west, inexorably huddles himself immediately upon the highway, whether his possessions embrace both sides of it or not, disregarding the facilities of access to his fields, the convenience of tilling his crops, or the character of the ground which his buildings may occupy, seeming to have no other object than proximity to the road—as if his chief business was upon that, instead of its being simply a convenience to his occupation. To the last, but little choice is left; and so long as a close connection with the thoroughfare is to control, he is obliged 30 to conform to accident in what should be a matter of deliberate choice and judgment. Still, there are right and wrong positions for a house, which it is necessary to discuss, regardless of conventional rules, and they should be considered in the light of propriety alone.
The location of a home should be a key consideration for every builder; it greatly affects its usefulness and, along with that, a significant portion of the enjoyment it will bring. In many parts of the United States, traditional placements of farm buildings offer advantages not found elsewhere. In the South, and especially in slave states, planters choose the most convenient site on their property without considering roads. Farmers of German descent in Pennsylvania and some other states do the same. However, Yankees, no matter where they settle—whether in the east, north, or west—tend to crowd themselves right along the highway, regardless of whether their land stretches across both sides of it. They often overlook the accessibility to their fields, the ease of farming their crops, or the quality of the land their buildings occupy, seemingly prioritizing being close to the road as if that is their main focus instead of viewing the road as merely a convenience for their work. They have little choice in the matter; as long as a strong connection to the thoroughfare dictates their decisions, they have to adapt based on chance rather than what should be a thoughtful choice. Nevertheless, there are better and worse places to position a house, which need to be addressed regardless of conventional norms, and these should be evaluated based purely on appropriateness. 30
A fitness to the purposes for which the dwelling is constructed should, unquestionably, be the governing point in determining its position. The site should be dry, and slightly declining, if possible, on every side; but if the surface be level, or where water occasionally flows from contiguous grounds, or on a soil naturally damp, it should be thoroughly drained of all superfluous moisture. That is indispensable to the preservation of the house itself, and the health of its inmates. The house should so stand as to present an agreeable aspect from the main points at which it is seen, or the thoroughfares by which it is approached. It should be so arranged as to afford protection from wind and storm, to that part most usually occupied, as well as be easy of access to the out-buildings appended to it. It should have an unmistakable front, sides, and rear; and the uses to which its various parts are applied, should distinctly appear in its outward character. It should combine all the advantages of soil, cultivation, water, shade, and shelter, which the most liberal gratification, consistent with the circumstances of the owner, may demand. If a site on the estate command a prospect of singular beauty, other things equal, the dwelling should embrace it; if the luxury of a stream, or a sheet of water in repose, present itself, it should, if possible, be enjoyed; if the shade and protection of a 31 grove be near, its benefits should be included; in fine, any object in itself desirable, and not embarrassing to the main purposes of the dwelling and its appendages, should be turned to the best account, and appropriated in such manner as to combine all that is desirable both in beauty and effect, as well as in utility, to make up a perfect whole in the family residence.
A home’s suitability for its intended use should definitely be the main factor in deciding its location. The site should ideally be dry and have a slight slope on all sides; however, if the ground is flat, or if water flows from nearby areas or if the soil is naturally damp, it must be well-drained of any excess moisture. This is essential for maintaining the house itself and ensuring the health of its residents. The house should be positioned to look appealing from the main viewpoints or roads leading to it. It should be arranged to protect the most frequently used areas from wind and storms, while also providing easy access to any outbuildings nearby. It should have a clear front, sides, and back, with the intended uses of its various parts clearly visible in its exterior design. It should take advantage of the best soil, cultivation, water, shade, and shelter that can be reasonably managed according to the owner’s circumstances. If there’s a part of the property with a particularly beautiful view, the house should take advantage of it, all else being equal. If there is a stream or calm body of water nearby, it should be incorporated if possible; if there's a grove providing shade and shelter nearby, its benefits should be utilized. In short, any desirable feature that doesn’t interfere with the primary functions of the house and its outbuildings should be utilized to enhance both its beauty and practicality, creating a perfect family home.
Attached to the building site should be considered the quality of the soil, as affording cultivation and growth to shrubbery and trees,—at once the ornament most effective to all domestic buildings, grateful to the eye always, as objects of admiration and beauty—delightful in the repose they offer in hours of lassitude or weariness; and to them, that indispensable feature in a perfect arrangement, the garden, both fruit and vegetable, should be added. Happily for the American, our soils are so universally adapted to the growth of vegetation in all its varieties, that hardly a farm of considerable size can be found which does not afford tolerable facilities for the exercise of all the taste which one may indulge in the cultivation of the garden as well as in the planting and growth of trees and shrubbery; and a due appropriation of these to an agreeable residence is equal in importance to the style and arrangement of the house itself.
The quality of the soil at the building site should be taken into account, as it supports the cultivation and growth of plants and trees—making them the most effective decoration for all homes. They’re always pleasing to the eye, admired for their beauty, and provide a lovely sense of calm during times of rest or fatigue. Additionally, gardens, including both fruit and vegetable varieties, should be included as an essential aspect of a well-designed space. Fortunately for Americans, our soils are generally well-suited for growing a wide range of vegetation, so it’s rare to find a sizable farm that doesn’t offer decent opportunities for indulging in gardening, as well as planting and nurturing trees and shrubs. Properly integrating these elements into a cozy home is just as important as the style and layout of the house itself.
The site selected for the dwelling, and the character of the scenery and objects immediately surrounding it, should have a controlling influence upon the style in which the house is to be constructed. A fitness and harmony in all these is indispensable to both expression and effect. And in their determination, a single 32 object should not control, but the entire picture, as completed, should be embraced in the view; and that style of building constituting the most agreeable whole, as filling the eye with the most grateful sensations, should be the one selected with which to fill up and complete the design.
The location chosen for the house, along with the nature of the scenery and the surrounding objects, should significantly influence the architectural style of the building. Achieving a sense of fit and harmony in all these elements is essential for both expression and impact. In making this decision, no single object should dominate; instead, the entire scene, as a whole, should be considered. The architectural style that creates the most pleasing overall impression, providing the most enjoyable visual experience, should be the one chosen to complete the design.
HOME EMBELLISHMENTS.
A discussion of the objects by way of embellishment, which may be required to give character and effect to a country residence, would embrace a range too wide, in all its parts, for a simply practical treatise like this; and general hints on the subject are all indeed, that will be required, as no specific rules or directions can be given which would be applicable, indiscriminately, to guide the builder in the execution of his work. A dwelling house, no matter what the style, standing alone, either on hill or plain, apart from other objects, would hardly be an attractive sight. As a mere representation of a particular style of architecture, or as a model of imitation, it might excite our admiration, but it would not be an object on which the eye and the imagination could repose with satisfaction. It would be incomplete unless accompanied by such associates as the eye is accustomed to embrace in the full gratification of the sensations to which that organ is the 33 conductor. But assemble around that dwelling subordinate structures, trees, and shrubbery properly disposed, and it becomes an object of exceeding interest and pleasure in the contemplation. It is therefore, that the particular style or outward arrangement of the house is but a part of what should constitute the general effect, and such style is to be consulted only so far as it may in itself please the taste, and give benefit or utility in the purposes for which it is intended. Still, the architectural design should be in harmony with the features of the surrounding scenery, and is thus important in completing the effect sought, and which cannot be accomplished without it.
A discussion about the decorative elements needed to give character and impact to a country home would cover too much ground for a straightforward guide like this. General tips on the topic are really all that’s necessary, as there can be no specific rules or instructions that would apply universally to guide the builder in completing their work. A house—regardless of its style—standing alone, whether on a hill or in a flat area, away from other elements, wouldn’t be very appealing. As a simple display of a specific architectural style, it might draw our admiration, but it wouldn’t be something that the eye and imagination could rest upon with satisfaction. It would feel incomplete without accompanying elements that our eyes expect to see for full sensory enjoyment. However, if you surround that house with supporting structures, trees, and well-placed shrubbery, it transforms into something incredibly interesting and enjoyable to look at. Therefore, the design or outward arrangement of the house is just one part of the overall effect. That design should be considered only to the extent that it pleases the eye and serves its intended purpose. Still, the architectural design needs to match the features of the surrounding scenery, which is crucial for achieving the desired effect that cannot be completed without it.
A farm with its buildings, or a simple country residence with the grounds which enclose it, or a cottage with its door-yard and garden, should be finished sections of the landscape of which it forms a part, or attractive points within it; and of consequence, complete each within itself, and not dependent upon distant accessories to support it—an imperium in imperio, in classic phrase. A tower, a monument, a steeple, or the indistinct outline of a distant town may form a striking feature in a pictorial design and the associations connected with them, or, the character in which they are contemplated may allow them to stand naked and unadorned by other objects, and still permit them to fill up in perfect harmony the picture. This idea will illustrate the importance of embellishment, not only in the substitution of trees as necessary appendages to a complete rural establishment, but in the erection of all the buildings necessary for occupation 34 in any manner, in form and position, to give effect from any point of view in which the homestead may be seen. General appearance should not be confined to one quarter alone, but the house and its surroundings on every side should show completeness in design and harmony in execution; and although humble, and devoted to the meanest purposes, a portion of these erections may be, yet the character of utility or necessity which they maintain, gives them an air of dignity, if not of grace. Thus, a house and out-buildings flanked with orchards, or a wood, on which they apparently fall back for support, fills the eye at once with not only a beautiful group, in themselves combined, but associate the idea of repose, of comfort, and abundance—indispensable requisites to a perfect farm residence. They also seem to connect the house and out-buildings with the fields beyond, which are of necessity naked of trees, and gradually spread the view abroad over the farm until it mingles with, or is lost in the general landscape.
A farm with its buildings, a simple country home with its grounds, or a cottage with its yard and garden should beautifully fit into the landscape around it, creating attractive focal points. Each element should be complete on its own and not rely on distant features for support—an imperium in imperio, as the classics say. A tower, monument, steeple, or the vague outline of a faraway town can create a striking visual element in a design. Depending on how they are viewed, these features can stand alone without needing other objects to enhance them while still perfectly completing the scene. This concept highlights the importance of embellishment—not just in adding trees as essential parts of a full rural setup but also in constructing all necessary buildings for living. These structures should be well-formed and positioned to look good from any angle the homestead can be seen. The overall appearance shouldn’t just focus on one side; the house and its surroundings should display completeness and harmony all around. Even if some of these buildings are simple or serve basic purposes, their utility or necessity lends them a sense of dignity, if not grace. A house and its outbuildings surrounded by orchards or woods seem to draw support from them, creating a beautiful group that evokes feelings of peace, comfort, and abundance—essential qualities for a perfect farm residence. They also create a visual connection between the house, the outbuildings, and the treeless fields beyond, gradually expanding the view over the farm until it blends with the wider landscape. 34
These remarks may seem too refined, and as out of place here, and trenching upon the subject of Landscape Gardening, which is not designed to be a part, or but an incidental one of the present work, yet they are important in connection with the subject under discussion. The proper disposition of trees and shrubbery around, or in the vicinity of buildings is far too little understood, although tree planting about our dwellings is a practice pretty general throughout our country. Nothing is more common than to see a man build a house, perhaps in most elaborate and expensive 35 style, and then plant a row of trees close upon the front, which when grown will shut it almost entirely out of view; while he leaves the rear as bald and unprotected as if it were a barn or a horse-shed—as if in utter ignorance, as he probably is, that his house is more effectively set off by a flanking and background of tree and shrubbery, than in front. And this is called good taste! Let us examine it. Trees near a dwelling are desirable for shade; shelter they do not afford except in masses, which last is always better given to the house itself by a veranda. Immediately adjoining, or within touching distance of a house, trees create dampness, more or less litter, and frequently vermin. They injure the walls and roofs by their continual shade and dampness. They exclude the rays of the sun, and prevent a free circulation of air. Therefore, close to the house, trees are absolutely pernicious, to say nothing of excluding all its architectural effect from observation; when, if planted at proper distances, they compose its finest ornaments.
These comments may seem overly sophisticated and somewhat out of place here, as they touch on the topic of Landscape Gardening, which isn’t meant to be a main focus of this work but rather a minor aspect. However, they are significant in relation to the topic being discussed. The proper arrangement of trees and shrubs around or near buildings is often not well understood, even though planting trees around our homes is a fairly common practice across the country. It’s all too common to see someone build a house, maybe in a very elaborate and expensive style, and then plant a line of trees right at the front, which will eventually obscure the view of the house almost entirely. Meanwhile, the back is left bare and exposed, as if it were merely a barn or a shed—likely due to a complete lack of awareness, as is often the case, that a house is actually better highlighted by a backdrop of trees and shrubs than by something in front of it. And this is considered good taste! Let’s take a closer look. Trees near a home are nice for shade; they don’t provide actual shelter unless grouped together, which is always better provided to the house itself with a porch. Trees that are very close to a house create dampness, bring debris, and often attract pests. They damage the walls and roofs with their constant shade and moisture. They block sunlight and hinder airflow. Therefore, having trees too close to the house is genuinely harmful, not to mention that they completely cover the architectural features from view; while, if planted at suitable distances, they serve as the house's most beautiful accents.
If it be necessary to build in good taste at all, it is quite as necessary that such good taste be kept in view throughout. A country dwelling should always be a conspicuous object in its full character and outline, from one or more prominent points of observation; consequently all plantations of tree or shrubbery in its immediate vicinity should be considered as aids to show off the house and its appendages, instead of becoming the principal objects of attraction in themselves. Their disposition should be such as to create a perfect and agreeable whole, when seen in connection with the 36 house itself. They should also be so placed as to open the surrounding landscape to view in its most attractive features, from the various parts of the dwelling. Much in the effective disposition of trees around the dwelling will thus depend upon the character of the country seen from it, and which should control to a great extent their position. A single tree, of grand and stately dimensions, will frequently give greater effect than the most studied plantations. A ledge of rock, in the clefts of which wild vines may nestle, or around which a mass of shrubbery may cluster, will add a charm to the dwelling which an elaborate cultivation would fail to bestow; and the most negligent apparel of nature in a thousand ways may give a character which we might strive in vain to accomplish by our own invention. In the efforts to embellish our dwellings or grounds, the strong natural objects with which they are associated should be consulted, always keeping in view an expression of the chief character to which the whole is applied.
If it’s necessary to build with good taste, it’s just as essential to maintain that good taste throughout. A country house should always be a striking feature in its full form and outline, visible from one or more key vantage points. Therefore, all the trees and shrubs planted nearby should enhance the appearance of the house and its surroundings, rather than becoming the main focus themselves. Their arrangement should create a harmonious and pleasing overall look when viewed alongside the house. They should also be positioned to reveal the most appealing aspects of the surrounding landscape from various parts of the dwelling. Much of how effectively trees are arranged around the house will depend on the character of the landscape visible from it, and this should largely influence their placement. A single, grand, and stately tree can often have a greater impact than the most carefully designed group of plants. A ledge of rock, where wild vines can grow or where a cluster of shrubs can gather, will add a charm to the house that intricate landscaping might not achieve; and nature’s untamed beauty in many forms can create a character that we might struggle to replicate through our own designs. When trying to enhance our homes or gardens, we should take into account the strong natural features nearby, always aiming for an expression of the main character that the whole setting conveys.
MATERIAL FOR FARM BUILDINGS.
In a country like ours, containing within its soils and upon its surface such an abundance and variety of building material, the composition of our farm erections must depend in most cases upon the ability or the choice of the builder himself.
In a country like ours, rich in building materials both underground and on the surface, the design of our farm structures largely relies on the skills or preferences of the builder.
Stone is the most durable, in the long run the cheapest, and as a consequence, the best material which can be furnished for the walls of a dwelling. With other farm buildings circumstances may govern differently; still, in many sections of the United States, even stone cannot be obtained, except at an expense and inconvenience altogether forbidding its use. Yet it is a happy relief that where stone is difficult, or not at all to be obtained, the best of clay for bricks, is abundant; and in almost all parts of our country, even where building timber is scarce, its transportation is so comparatively light, and the facilities of removing it are so cheap, that wood is accessible to every one. Hence we may indulge in almost every fitting style of architecture and arrangement, to which either kind of these materials are best adapted. We shall slightly discuss them as applicable to our purposes.
Stone is the most durable, ultimately the cheapest, and for that reason, the best material to use for the walls of a home. For other farm buildings, different factors might come into play; however, in many parts of the United States, stone can be hard to find and can be too expensive and inconvenient to use. Thankfully, where stone is hard to get or completely unavailable, there is a plentiful supply of good clay for making bricks. In almost all areas of our country, even where there is a shortage of building timber, the transportation costs are relatively low, and it’s quite affordable to move wood around, making it accessible to everyone. Therefore, we can explore nearly every suitable style of architecture and layout that works well with either of these materials. We will briefly discuss their applications for our needs.
38 Stone is found either on the surface, or in quarries under ground. On the surface they lie chiefly as bowlders of less or greater size, usually of hard and durable kinds. Large bowlders may be either blasted, or split with wedges into sufficiently available shapes to lay in walls with mortar; or if small, they may with a little extra labor, be fitted by the aid of good mortar into equally substantial wall as the larger masses. In quarries they are thrown out, either by blasting or splitting in layers, so as to form regular courses when laid up; and all their varieties may, unhammered, except to strike off projecting points or angles, be laid up with a sufficiently smooth face to give fine effect to a building. Thus, when easily obtained, aside from the greater advantages of their durability, stone is as cheap in the first instance as lumber, excepting in new districts of country where good building lumber is the chief article of production, and cheaper than brick in any event. Stone requires no paint. Its color is a natural, therefore an agreeable one, be it usually what it may, although some shades are more grateful to the eye than others; yet it is always in harmony with natural objects, and particularly so on the farm where everything ought to wear the most substantial appearance. The outer walls of a stone house should always be firred off inside for lathing and plastering, to keep them thoroughly dry. Without that, the rooms are liable to dampness, which would penetrate through the stone into the inside plastering unless cut off by an open space of air between.
38 Stone can be found either on the surface or in underground quarries. On the surface, it mainly appears as boulders of various sizes, usually made of hard and durable materials. Large boulders can be either blasted or split with wedges into shapes that can be used in walls with mortar; smaller boulders can also be worked with a bit more effort and combined with good mortar to create a wall as strong as those made with larger stones. In quarries, stones are extracted either by blasting or splitting them in layers to create uniform courses when laid. All types of stone can be used, unhammered, apart from removing any protruding points or angles, to achieve a smooth surface that looks great on a building. Therefore, when stone is readily available, it is as affordable as lumber initially, except in newly developed areas where good building lumber is the main product, making it cheaper than brick overall. Stone doesn't need paint. Its color is natural and thus pleasing, though some shades may be more visually appealing than others; it always blends well with natural surroundings, especially on farms where a solid appearance is essential. The outer walls of a stone house should always be firred off inside for lathing and plastering to keep them completely dry. Without this, the rooms could become damp, which would seep through the stone into the inner plastering unless prevented by an air gap.
Bricks, where stone is not found, supply its place 39 tolerably well. When made of good clay, rightly tempered with sand, and well burned, they will in a wall remain for centuries, and as far as material is concerned, answer all purposes. Brick walls may be thinner than stone walls, but they equally require "firring off" for inside plastering, and in addition, they need the aid of paint quite as often as wood, to give them an agreeable color—bricks themselves not usually being in the category of desirable colors or shades.
Bricks, in places where stone isn't available, work pretty well as a substitute. When made from quality clay, properly mixed with sand, and fired correctly, they can last in a wall for centuries and serve all necessary functions. Brick walls can be thinner than stone walls, but they still need "firring off" for interior plastering, and additionally, they require paint just as often as wood to achieve a pleasing color, since bricks themselves typically aren't seen as having attractive colors or shades. 39
Wood, when abundant and easily obtained, is worked with the greatest facility, and on many accounts, is the cheapest material, for the time, of which a building can be constructed. But it is perishable. It requires every few years a coat of paint, and is always associated with the idea of decay. Yet wood may be moulded into an infinite variety of form to please the eye, in the indulgence of any peculiar taste or fancy.
Wood, when it's plentiful and easy to get, is very easy to work with and, for the price, it's one of the cheapest materials to build with. But it doesn't last long. Every few years, it needs a fresh coat of paint and is always linked to the idea of decay. Still, wood can be shaped into countless designs to appeal to the eye and satisfy any unique taste or preference.
We cannot, in the consideration of material for house-building therefore, urge upon the farmer the adoption of either of the above named materials to the preference of another, in any particular structure he may require; but leave him to consult his own circumstances in regard to them, as best he may. But this we will say: If it be possible, never lay a cellar or underground wall of perishable material, such as wood or soft bricks; nor build with soft or unburnt bricks in a wall exposed to the weather anywhere; nor with stone which is liable to crumble or disintegrate by the action of frost or water upon it. We are aware that 40 unburnt bricks have been strongly recommended for house-building in America; but from observation, we are fully persuaded that they are worthless for any permanent structure, and if used, will in the end prove a dead loss in their application. Cottages, out-buildings, and other cheap erections on the farm, for the accommodation of laborers, stock, or crops, may be made of wood, where wood is the cheapest and most easily obtained; and, even taking its perishable nature into account, it may be the most economical. In their construction, it may be simply a matter of calculation with him who needs them, to calculate the first cost of any material he has at hand, or may obtain, and to that add the interest upon it, the annual wear and tear, the insurance, and the period it may last, to determine this matter to his entire satisfaction—always provided he have the means at hand to do either. But other considerations generally control the American farmer. His pocket is apt more often to be pinched, than his choice is to be at fault; and this weighty argument compels him into the "make shift" system, which perhaps in its results, provided the main chance be attained, is quite as advantageous to his interests as the other.
We can't, when considering building materials, push farmers to choose one of the materials mentioned over another for any specific structure they need. Instead, we leave it up to them to assess their own situation. However, we will say this: If possible, never use cellars or underground walls made of perishable materials like wood or soft bricks; don’t build with soft or unburnt bricks in any wall exposed to the weather anywhere; and avoid using stones that can crumble or break down due to frost or water. We know that 40 unburnt bricks are often recommended for building houses in America, but based on our observations, we firmly believe they are not suitable for any permanent structure and will ultimately result in financial loss if used. Cottages, outbuildings, and other low-cost constructions on the farm, meant for the accommodation of workers, animals, or crops, can be built from wood when it's the most affordable and readily available; even considering its perishable nature, it may be the most cost-effective option. For those in need, it can simply come down to calculating the upfront cost of any materials they have or can get, adding the interest, annual wear and tear, insurance, and how long it will last, to come to a satisfactory conclusion—provided they have the resources to do so. Yet, other factors usually drive American farmers’ choices. They often feel financial pressure more than they struggle with selecting materials; this significant concern pushes them into a “make do” approach, which, if it achieves the main objective, can be just as beneficial to their interests as other options.
As a general remark, all buildings should show for themselves, what they are built of. Let stone be stone; bricks show on their own account; and of all things, put no counterfeit by way of plaster, stucco, or other false pretence other than paint, or a durable wash upon wood: it is a miserable affectation always, and of no possible use whatever. All counterfeit of 41 any kind as little becomes the buildings of the farmer, as the gilded pinchbeck watch would fit the finished attire of a gentleman.
As a general rule, all buildings should clearly display what they're made of. Let stone be stone; let bricks stand out for what they are; and above all, avoid any fake materials like plaster, stucco, or other false pretenses, except for paint or a lasting wash on wood: it's always a pointless show and serves no purpose at all. Any kind of imitation looks just as out of place in a farmer's buildings as a flashy fake watch would look on a well-dressed gentleman. 41
Before submitting the several designs proposed for this work, it may be remarked, that in addressing them to a climate strictly American, we have in every instance adopted the wide, steeply-pitched roof, with broad eaves, gables and cornices, as giving protection, shade, and shelter to the walls; thus keeping them dry and in good preservation, and giving that well housed, and comfortable expression, so different from the stiff, pinched, and tucked-up look in which so many of the haberdasher-built houses of the present day exult.
Before submitting the various designs suggested for this project, it's worth noting that, since we are addressing a distinctly American climate, we have consistently chosen the wide, steeply pitched roof with broad eaves, gables, and cornices. This design provides protection, shade, and shelter for the walls, helping to keep them dry and well-maintained. It also gives a cozy, inviting appearance, which contrasts sharply with the rigid, cramped, and overly tidy look that many of today's factory-built houses flaunt.
We give some examples of the hipped roof, because they are convenient and cheap in their construction; and we also throw into the designs a lateral direction to the roofs of the wings, or connecting parts of the building. This is sometimes done for effect in architectural appearance, and sometimes for the economy and advantage of the building itself. Where roofs thus intersect or connect with a side wall, the connecting gutters should be made of copper, zinc, lead, galvanized iron, or tin, into which the shingles, if they be covered with that material, should be laid so as to effectually prevent leakage. The eave gutters should be of copper, zinc, lead, galvanized iron or tin, also, and placed at least one foot back from the edge of the roof, and lead the water into conductors down the wall into the cistern or elsewhere, as may be required. If the water be not needed, and the roof be wide over the walls, there is no objection to let it pass off naturally, 42 if it be no inconvenience to the ground below, and can run off, or be absorbed into the ground without detriment to the cellar walls. All this must be subject to the judgment of the proprietor himself.
We provide some examples of hipped roofs because they are practical and inexpensive to build. We also include a slanted design for the roofs of the wings or connecting sections of the building. This is sometimes done for architectural appeal and sometimes for the cost-effectiveness and benefits to the building itself. Where roofs intersect or meet a side wall, the connecting gutters should be made of copper, zinc, lead, galvanized iron, or tin, with shingles, if made of that material, laid down in a way that effectively prevents leaks. The eave gutters should also be made of copper, zinc, lead, galvanized iron, or tin, and should be placed at least one foot back from the roof's edge, directing the water into downspouts along the wall into a cistern or elsewhere as needed. If the water isn't required and the roof extends over the walls, it is fine to let it flow off naturally, 42 as long as it doesn't cause any issues for the ground below and can either drain away or be absorbed into the ground without harming the cellar walls. Ultimately, this should be decided by the property owner.
OUTSIDE COLOR.
We are not among those who cast off, and on a sudden condemn, as out of all good taste, the time-honored white house with its green blinds, often so tastefully gleaming out from beneath the shade of summer trees; nor do we doggedly adhere to it, except when in keeping, by contrast or otherwise, with everything around it. For a century past white has been the chief color of our wooden houses, and often so of brick ones, in the United States. This color has been supposed to be strong and durable, being composed chiefly of white lead; and as it reflected the rays of the sun instead of absorbing them, as some of the darker colors do, it was thus considered a better preserver of the weather-boarding from the cracks which the fervid heat of the sun is apt to make upon it, than the darker colors. White, consequently, has always been considered, until within a few years past, as a fitting and tasteful color for dwellings, both in town and country. A new school of taste in colors has risen, however, within a few years past, among us; about the same time, too, that the recent gingerbread and beadwork 43 style of country building was introduced. And these were both, as all new things are apt to be, carried to extremes. Instead of toning down the glare of the white into some quiet, neutral shade, as a straw color; a drab of different hues—always an agreeable and appropriate color for a dwelling, particularly when the door and window casings are dressed with a deeper or lighter shade, as those shades predominate in the main body of the house; or a natural and soft wood color, which also may be of various shades; or even the warm russet hue of some of our rich stones—quite appropriate, too, as applied to wood, or bricks—the fashion must be followed without either rhyme or reason, and hundreds of our otherwise pretty and imposing country houses have been daubed over with the dirtiest, gloomiest pigment imaginable, making every habitation which it touched look more like a funeral appendage than a cheerful, life-enjoying home. We candidly say that we have no sort of affection for such sooty daubs. The fashion which dictates them is a barbarous, false, and arbitrary fashion; void of all natural taste in its inception; and to one who has a cheerful, life-loving spirit about him, such colors have no more fitness on his dwelling or out-buildings, than a tomb would have in his lawn or dooryard.
We’re not among those who instantly dismiss and condemn the classic white house with its green shutters as lacking good taste. Likewise, we don’t stubbornly cling to it unless it fits well with its surroundings, whether through contrast or some other way. For the past century, white has been the main color of our wooden houses—and often brick ones too—in the United States. This color was believed to be strong and durable, made mainly from white lead. Since it reflects sunlight rather than absorbs it like some darker colors, it was thought to protect the weatherboarding better from the cracks caused by intense sun. Therefore, white has always been seen, until recently, as a fitting and tasteful color for homes, both in the city and the countryside. However, a new trend in colors has emerged in the last few years, coinciding with the introduction of the recent gingerbread and beadwork style in country homes. As with all new things, these were taken to extremes. Instead of toning down the bright white to a softer, neutral shade like straw color or a pleasant drab—both suitable for a house, especially when paired with contrasting shades for doors and windows—people have followed this fashion blindly. As a result, many otherwise charming and impressive country homes have been slathered in the dirtiest, gloomiest paint imaginable, making them look more like funeral homes than cheerful, welcoming places. Honestly, we have no love for such dreary colors. This trend is barbaric, misguided, and arbitrary, lacking any sense of natural taste from the start. For someone with a cheerful, life-loving spirit, such colors have no more place on their home or outbuildings than a tombstone would have in their front yard.
Locality, amplitude of the buildings, the purpose to which they are applied—every consideration connected with them, in fact, should be consulted, as to color. Stone will give its own color; which, by the way, some prodigiously smart folks paint—quite as decorous or essential, as to "paint the lily." Brick 44 sometimes must be painted, but it should be of a color in keeping with its character,—of substance and dignity; not a counterfeit of stone, or to cheat him who looks upon it into a belief that it may be marble, or other unfounded pretension. A warm russet is most appropriate for brick-work of any kind of color—the color of a russet apple, or undressed leather—shades that comport with Milton's beautiful idea of
Locality, the size of the buildings, the purposes they serve—every factor related to them should be considered when it comes to color. Stone has its own natural color; incidentally, some incredibly clever people paint it—which is just as fitting or unnecessary as "painting the lily." Brick 44 sometimes needs to be painted, but it should be a color that matches its character—something substantial and dignified; not an imitation of stone, nor an attempt to fool the onlooker into thinking it might be marble or any other unrealistic claim. A warm russet is the most suitable choice for brickwork of any color—the color of a russet apple or raw leather—shades that align with Milton's beautiful idea of
"Russet lawns and fallows gray."
"Brown lawns and gray fields."
Red and yellow are both too glaring, and slate, or lead colors too somber and cold. It is, in fact, a strong argument in favor of bricks in building, where they can be had as cheap as stone or wood, that any color can be given to them which the good taste of the builder may require, in addition to their durability, which, when made of good material, and properly burned, is quite equal to stone. In a wooden structure one may play with his fancy in the way of color, minding in the operation, that he does not play the mountebank, and like the clown in the circus, make his tattooed tenement the derision of men of correct taste, as the other does his burlesque visage the ridicule of his auditors.
Red and yellow are both too bright, and slate or lead colors are too dull and cold. It’s actually a strong argument for using bricks in construction, especially since they can be as affordable as stone or wood, that you can paint them any color the builder’s good taste demands, plus they’re durable, which, when made from quality materials and properly fired, is just as good as stone. In a wooden structure, you can get creative with colors, just be careful not to go overboard and end up like a clown in a circus, making your flashy house a joke among people with decent taste, just as he makes his exaggerated face a laughingstock for his audience.
A wooden country house, together with its out-buildings, should always be of a cheerful and softly-toned color—a color giving a feeling of warmth and comfort; nothing glaring or flashy about it. And yet, such buildings should not, in their color, any more than in their architecture, appear as if imitating either stone or brick. Wood, of itself, is light. One cannot build 45 a heavy house of wood, as compared with brick or stone. Therefore all imitation or device which may lead to a belief that it may be other than what it really is, is nothing less than a fraud—not criminal, we admit, but none the less a fraud upon good taste and architectural truth.
A wooden country house, along with its outbuildings, should always be painted in a cheerful and soft color—one that conveys warmth and comfort; nothing bright or flashy. Yet, these buildings shouldn’t, in their color or architecture, look like they’re trying to imitate stone or brick. Wood is naturally light. You can’t build a heavy house out of wood like you can with brick or stone. Therefore, any attempt to make it seem like something it’s not is nothing less than a deception—not a crime, we agree, but still a deception against good taste and architectural honesty.
It is true that in this country we cannot afford to place in stone and brick buildings those ornate trimmings and appendages which, perhaps, if economy were not to be consulted, might be more durably constructed of stone, but at an expense too great to be borne by those of moderate means. Yet it is not essential that such appendages should be of so expensive material. The very purposes to which they are applied, as a parapet, a railing, a balustrade, a portico, piazza, or porch; all these may be of wood, even when the material of the house proper is of the most durable kind; and by being painted in keeping with the building itself, produce a fine effect, and do no violence to good taste or the most fastidious propriety. They may be even sanded to a color, and grained, stained, or otherwise brought to an identity, almost, with the material of the house, and be quite proper, because they simply are appendages of convenience, necessity, or luxury, to the building itself, and may be taken away without injuring or without defacing the main structure. They are not a material part of the building itself, but reared for purposes which may be dispensed with. It is a matter of taste or preference, that they were either built there, or that they remain permanently afterward, and of consequence, proper that 46 they be of wood. Yet they should not imitate stone or brick. They should still show that they are of wood, but in color and outside preservation denote that they are appendages to a stone or brick house, by complying with the proper shades in color which predominate in the building itself, and become their own subordinate character.
It’s true that in this country we can’t afford to put elaborate details and extensions on buildings made of stone and brick. If cost weren’t an issue, those details might last longer if made from stone, but that would be too expensive for people of average means. However, it doesn’t have to be that way; those extensions don’t need to be made from costly materials. Things like parapets, railings, balustrades, porticos, piazzas, or porches can all be made of wood, even if the main part of the house is built from the most durable materials. If they’re painted to match the house, they can look great without clashing with good taste or refined standards. They can even be sanded to a specific color and grained, stained, or otherwise styled to blend in with the main material of the house, and that’s perfectly fine because they are simply extensions of convenience, necessity, or luxury, and can be removed without damaging the main structure. They’re not a fundamental part of the building, but are made for purposes that can be eliminated. Whether they are built or stay permanently is a matter of taste or preference, and so it makes sense for them to be made of wood. However, they shouldn’t try to look like stone or brick. They should clearly be made of wood, but in color and finish, they should indicate that they are extensions of a stone or brick house by matching the primary colors of the building and maintaining their own subordinate character.
Not being a professional painter, or compounder of colors, we shall offer no receipts or specifics for painting or washing buildings. Climate affects the composition of both paints and washes, and those who are competent in this line, are the proper persons to dictate their various compositions; and we do but common justice to the skill and intelligence of our numerous mechanics, when we recommend to those who contemplate building, to apply forthwith to such as are masters of their trade for all the information they require on the various subjects connected with it. One who sets out to be his own architect, builder, and painter, is akin to the lawyer in the proverb, who has a fool for his client, when pleading his own case, and quite as apt to have quack in them all. Hints, general outlines, and oftentimes matters of detail in interior convenience, and many other minor affairs may be given by the proprietor, when he is neither a professional architect, mechanic, or even an amateur; but in all things affecting the substantial and important parts of his buildings, he should consult those who are proficient and experienced in the department on which he consults them. And it may perhaps be added that none professing to be such, are competent, unless well 47 instructed, and whose labors have met the approbation of those competent to judge.
Not being a professional painter or color mixer, we won’t provide any formulas or specifics for painting or washing buildings. Climate impacts the composition of both paints and washes, so it's best to rely on those who are skilled in this area to determine their various formulations. We do a fair service to the talent and expertise of our many tradespeople when we suggest that anyone planning to build should reach out to those who are masters of their craft for all the information they need on related topics. Trying to be your own architect, builder, and painter is like the lawyer in the saying who has a fool for a client when representing himself, and is just as likely to make poor choices in all areas. A property owner may offer ideas, general outlines, and sometimes detailed suggestions about interior comfort and other minor aspects, even if they aren't a professional architect, skilled tradesperson, or even a hobbyist. However, for anything that impacts the essential and significant parts of their buildings, they should consult knowledgeable and experienced professionals in the respective fields. Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that anyone claiming to be such must be well-trained and have their work approved by those qualified to evaluate it. 47
There is one kind of color, prevailing to a great extent in many parts of our country, particularly the northern and eastern, which, in its effect upon any one having an eye to a fitness of things in country buildings, is a monstrous perversion of good taste. That is the glaring red, made up of Venetian red, ochre, or Spanish brown, with doors and windows touched off with white. The only apology we have ever heard given for such a barbarism was, that it is a good, strong, and lasting color. We shall not go into an examination as to that fact, but simply answer, that if it be so, there are other colors, not more expensive, which are equally strong and durable, and infinitely more tasteful and fitting. There can be nothing less comporting with the simplicity of rural scenery, than a glaring red color on a building. It connects with nothing natural about it; it neither fades into any surrounding shade of soil or vegetation, and must of necessity, stand out in its own bold and unshrouded impudence, a perfect Ishmaelite in color, and a perversion of every thing harmonious in the design. We eschew red, therefore, from every thing in rural architecture.
There’s a certain color that’s really common in many parts of our country, especially in the north and east, that is a complete mismatch for good taste in country buildings. That color is a bright red, made from Venetian red, ochre, or Spanish brown, with white doors and windows. The only excuse we've ever heard for this eyesore is that it’s a strong, durable color. We won’t debate that point, but we’ll just say that if it is true, there are other colors that are just as strong and long-lasting, and way more attractive and suitable. There’s nothing less fitting for the simplicity of rural scenes than a bright red building. It doesn’t blend in with anything natural; it doesn’t fade into the surrounding soil or vegetation, and it stands out with its bold and unapologetic look, a perfect outlier in color, ruining any sense of harmony in the design. So, we avoid red in all rural architecture.
A SHORT CHAPTER ON TASTE.
The compound words, or terms good-taste and bad-taste have been used in the preceding pages without, perhaps, sufficiently explaining what is meant by the word taste, other than as giving vague and unsatisfactory terms to the reader in measuring the subject in hand. Taste is a term universally applied in criticism of the fine-arts, such as painting, sculpture, architecture, &c., &c., of which there are many schools—of taste, we mean—some of them, perhaps natural, but chiefly conventional, and all more or less arbitrary. The proverb, "there is no accounting for taste," is as old as the aforesaid schools themselves, and defines perfectly our own estimate of the common usage of the term.
The terms good-taste and bad-taste have been used in the previous sections without fully explaining what is meant by the word taste, other than providing vague and unsatisfactory terms for the reader to understand the topic at hand. Taste is a term commonly used in critiquing the fine arts, like painting, sculpture, architecture, etc., which have many schools of taste—some of them maybe natural, but mostly conventional, and all to some degree arbitrary. The saying, "there's no accounting for taste," is as old as those schools themselves and perfectly defines our understanding of the common use of the term.
As we have intended to use it, Webster defines the word taste to be "the faculty of discerning beauty, order, congruity, proportion, symmetry, or whatever constitutes excellence; style; manner with respect to what is pleasing." With this understanding, therefore; a fitness to the purpose for which a thing is intended—got up in a manner agreeable to the eye and the 49 mind—preserving also a harmony between its various parts and uses; pleasing to the eye, as addressed to the sense, and satisfactory to the mind, as appropriate to the object for which it is required;—these constitute good-taste, as the term is here understood.
As we plan to use it, Webster defines the word taste as "the ability to recognize beauty, order, consistency, proportion, symmetry, or anything that signifies quality; style; manner in relation to what is pleasing." With this in mind, a fit for the purpose that something is made for—designed in a way that is visually appealing and aligns with our thoughts—while maintaining harmony between its different parts and functions; appealing to the eye as it engages the senses, and fulfilling the intentions of its use—these elements define good taste, as we understand the term here.
The term style, also, is "the manner or form of a thing." When we say, "that is a stylish house," it should mean that it is in, or approaches some particular style of building recognized by the schools. It may or may not be in accordance with good taste, and is, consequently, subject to the same capricious test in its government. Yet styles are subject to arrangement, and are classified in the several schools of architecture, either as distinct specimens of acknowledged orders, as the Doric, the Ionic, the Corinthian, in Grecian architecture, or, the Tuscan and Composite, which are, more distinctly, styles of Roman architecture. To these may be added the Egyptian, the most massive of all; and either of them, in their proper character, grand and imposing when applied to public buildings or extensive structures, but altogether inapplicable, from their want of lightness and convenience, to country or even city dwellings. Other styles—not exactly orders—of architecture, such as the Italian, the Romanesque, the Gothic, the Swiss, with their modifications—all of which admit of a variety of departures from fixed rules, not allowed in the more rigid orders—may be adapted in a variety of ways, to the most agreeable and harmonious arrangement in architectural effect, for dwellings and structures appurtenant to them.
The term style refers to "the way or form of something." When we say, "that is a stylish house," we mean it embodies a certain design that is recognized by the architectural schools. It might not align with what is considered good taste and is affected by the same unpredictable standards in its evaluation. Nonetheless, styles can be categorized and are organized within various architectural schools, either as distinct examples of established orders—such as the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian styles in Greek architecture—or the Tuscan and Composite styles, which are more specifically Roman. We can also include the Egyptian style, which is the most massive of all; any of these styles can appear grand and impressive when used for public buildings or large structures, but they are generally unsuitable for country homes or even city residences due to their lack of lightness and practicality. Other styles—not quite orders—like the Italian, Romanesque, Gothic, and Swiss, along with their variations, allow for a range of interpretations that deviate from the strict rules found in more rigid orders, making them adaptable to create pleasant and harmonious designs for homes and related structures.
50 The Italian style of architecture, modified somewhat in pretension and extent, is admirably adapted to most parts of the United States. Its general lightness, openness, and freedom gives a wide range of choice; and its wings, verandas, and terraces, stretching off in any and almost every direction desired, from the main building, make it exceedingly appropriate for general use. The modern, or rural Gothic, branching off sometimes into what is termed the English cottage style, and in many instances blending so intimately with the Italian, as hardly to mark the line of division, is also a beautiful arrangement of building for country dwellings. These, in ruder structures, may also be carried into the Rustic—not a style proper, in itself—but so termed as approximating in execution or pretension to either of the above; while the Swiss, with its hanging roofs, and sheltering eaves may be frequently brought in aid to show out the rustic form in more completeness, and in greater harmony with surrounding objects, than either of the others.
50 The Italian style of architecture, slightly toned down in its grandeur and size, is perfectly suited for many areas in the United States. Its overall lightness, openness, and freedom offer a wide range of options; plus, its wings, verandas, and terraces extending in almost any direction from the main building make it highly adaptable for general use. The modern or rural Gothic style, which sometimes blends into what’s known as the English cottage style and often merges so closely with the Italian that it’s hard to distinguish between them, is also a lovely design for country homes. These styles can also be reflected in simpler structures known as Rustic—not a style in itself, but termed as such for its similar execution or pretensions to either of the aforementioned styles; while the Swiss design, with its sloping roofs and protective eaves, can often enhance the rustic aesthetic, making it more complete and better integrated with its surroundings than either of the others.
For farm houses, either of these arrangements or departures from a set and positive style, are better fitted than any which we have noticed; and in some one or other of the modifications named, we have applied them in the examples submitted in this work. They may not therefore be viewed as distinct delineations of an order of architecture, or style proper, even; but as a mode appropriate to the object required. And so long as they do not absolutely conflict with true taste, or in their construction commit a barbarism upon any acknowledged system of architecture, in any of its 51 modifications, we hazard no impropriety in introducing them for the imitation of country builders. Congruity with the objects to which it is applied should be the chief merit of any structure whatever; and so long as that object be attained, good taste is not violated, and utility is fully subserved.
For farmhouses, either of these arrangements or deviations from a set and definite style are better suited than any we've noted; and in one or another of the modifications mentioned, we have applied them in the examples presented in this work. They should not be seen as distinct representations of an order of architecture, or even as a proper style; instead, they are a method appropriate for the intended purpose. As long as they do not contradict true taste or involve any barbarism against an acknowledged architectural system in any of its 51 variations, we see no issue in introducing them for country builders to imitate. The main merit of any structure should be its congruity with its intended use; and as long as that goal is met, good taste remains intact, and utility is fully served.
Intimately connected with this subject, in rural buildings, is the shape of the structure. Many of the designs recently introduced for the imitation of builders, are full of angles and all sorts of zig-zag lines, which, although they may add to the variety of style, or relieve the monotony of straight and continuous lines, are carried to a needless excess, expensive in their construction, and entail infinite trouble upon the owner or occupant, in the repairs they subject him to, in the leakages continually occurring, against which last, either of wind or rain, it is almost impossible to guard. And what, let us ask, are the benefits of a parcel of needless gables and peaked windows, running up like owl's ears, above the eaves of a house, except to create expense, and invite leakage and decay? If in appearance, they provoke an association of that kind, they certainly are not in good taste; and a foot or two of increased height in a wall, or a low window sufficient for the purpose intended, would give a tone of dignity, of comfort, and real utility, which a whole covey of such pretentious things could not. All such trumpery should be scouted from the dwelling house of the farmer, and left to the special indulgence of the town builder.
Intimately connected to this topic in rural buildings is the shape of the structure. Many of the designs recently introduced for builders to imitate are filled with angles and all sorts of zig-zag lines, which, although they might add variety to the style or break the monotony of straight lines, are taken to an unnecessary extreme. They are costly to build and create endless problems for the owner or occupant due to the repairs they require and the leaks that constantly occur. It's almost impossible to prevent these leaks from wind or rain. So, what are the advantages of a bunch of unnecessary gables and peaked windows, sticking up like owl's ears above the eaves of a house, other than to create extra costs and invite leaks and deterioration? If they provoke such associations in appearance, they are certainly not good taste; a foot or two of added height in a wall, or a low window sufficient for its purpose, would provide a sense of dignity, comfort, and real utility that a whole bunch of such pretentious features couldn’t match. All such nonsense should be avoided in the farmer's home and left to the indulgence of city builders.
A square form of house will afford more area within 52 a given line of wall than any other sensible form which may be adopted. Yet a square house is not so agreeable to the eye as an oblong. Thus, a house should stand somewhat broader on one front than on another. It should also be relieved from an appearance of monotony and tameness, by one or more wings; and such wings should, at their junction with the main building, retreat or advance a sufficient distance from a continuous line, as to relieve it effectually from an appearance of stiffness, and show a different character of occupation from that of the main structure. The front of a house should be the most imposing and finished in its architecture of any one of its parts; and unless some motive of greater convenience control otherwise, its entrance the most highly wrought, as indicating the luxury of the establishment—for even the humblest habitations have their luxuries. The side rooms, or more usually occupied apartments, require less pretension in both architectural effect and finish, and should wear a more subdued appearance; while the kitchen section, and from that, the several grades of apartments stretching beyond it, should distinctly show that they are subservient in their character, and wear a style and finish accordingly. Thus, each part of the house speaks for itself. It is its own finger-board, pointing the stranger to its various accommodation, as plainly as if written on its walls, and saying as significantly as dumb walls can do, that here dwells a well regulated family, who have a parlor for their friends; a library, or sitting-room for their own leisure and comfort; an ample bedroom and nursery, for the parents 53 and the little ones; a kitchen for the cooking; and a scullery and closets, and all the other etceteras which belong to a perfect family homestead.
A square shaped house will provide more space within a given wall length than any other reasonable shape that might be used. However, a square house isn’t as visually appealing as a rectangular one. Therefore, a house should be a bit wider on one side than the other. It should also avoid looking too monotonous or bland by including one or more wings; these wings should either set back or extend out enough from the main structure to break the rigid line and show a different type of usage compared to the main building. The front of the house should have the most impressive and well-designed architecture of all its sections; unless there’s a need for greater convenience to dictate otherwise, the entrance should be the most elaborately designed, indicating the home's luxury—for even the simplest homes have their touches of luxury. The side rooms, or the areas that are used more frequently, can be less showy in both design and finish, and should have a more understated appearance. The kitchen area and the various additional spaces that extend from it should clearly show that they serve a supporting purpose and should have a style and finish that reflects that. Thus, each part of the house conveys its own message. It acts like a signpost, guiding visitors to its different features just as clearly as if labeled on the walls, indicating that here lives a well-organized family, with a living room for their guests; a library or sitting room for their own relaxation; a spacious bedroom and nursery for the parents and children; a kitchen for cooking; along with a pantry and closets, plus all the other essentials that make a perfect family home.
And so with the grounds. The lawn or "dooryard," should be the best kept ground on the place. The most conspicuous part of the garden should show its shrubbery and its flowers. The side or rear approach should be separated from the lawn, and show its constant business occupation, and openly lead off to where men and farm stock meet on common ground, devoted to every purpose which the farm requires. Such arrangement would be complete in all its parts, satisfactory, and lasting. Tinsel ornament, or gewgaw decoration should never be permitted on any building where the sober enjoyment of agricultural life is designed. It can never add consideration or dignity to the retired gentleman even, and least of all should it be indulged in by the farmer, dwelling on his own cultivated acres.
And so with the grounds. The lawn or "dooryard" should be the best maintained area on the property. The most noticeable part of the garden should showcase its shrubs and flowers. The side or back entrance should be distinct from the lawn and demonstrate its ongoing business activities, leading to where people and farm animals come together for all the needs of the farm. This layout would be complete in every aspect, satisfactory, and enduring. Flashy decorations or unnecessary embellishments should never be allowed on any building meant for the serious enjoyment of rural life. It does not enhance the status or dignity of a retired gentleman, and even less so for a farmer living on his own cultivated land.
THE CONSTRUCTION OF CELLARS.
Every farm house and farm cottage, where a family of any size occupy the latter, should have a good, substantial stone-walled cellar beneath it. No room attached to the farm house is more profitable, in its occupation, than the cellar. It is useful for storing numberless articles which are necessary to be kept warm and dry in winter, as well as cool in summer, of which the farmer is well aware. The walls of a cellar should rise at least one, to two, or even three feet above the level of the ground surrounding it, according to circumstances, and the rooms in it well ventilated by two or more sliding sash windows in each, according to size, position, and the particular kind of storage for which it is required, so that a draft of pure air can pass through, and give it thorough ventilation at all times. It should also be at least seven and a half feet high in the clear; and if it be even nine feet, that is not too much. If the soil be compact, or such as will hold water, it should be thoroughly drained from the lowest point or corner, and the drain always kept open; (a stone drain is the best and most durable,) and if 55 floored with a coat of flat, or rubble stones, well set in good hydraulic cement—or cement alone, when the stone cannot be obtained—all the better. This last will make it rat proof. For the purpose of avoiding these destructive creatures, the foundation stones in the wall should be brought to a joint, and project at least six inches on each side, from the wall itself, when laid upon this bottom course; as the usual manner of rats is to burrow in a nearly perpendicular direction from the surface, by the side of the wall, when intending to undermine it. On arriving at the bottom, if circumvented by the projecting stones, they will usually abandon their work. Plank of hard wood, or hard burnt bricks, may answer this purpose when stone cannot be had.
Every farmhouse and farm cottage, where a family of any size lives, should have a solid, stone-walled cellar beneath it. No space connected to the farmhouse is more valuable for its use than the cellar. It’s great for storing countless items that need to be kept warm and dry in winter and cool in summer, which farmers know well. The walls of a cellar should rise at least one to three feet above the surrounding ground level, depending on the conditions, and the rooms inside should be well-ventilated by two or more sliding sash windows in each room, depending on size, location, and the specific type of storage needed, to ensure a flow of fresh air for good ventilation at all times. The cellar should also be at least seven and a half feet tall, and if it’s even nine feet, that’s even better. If the soil is dense or retains water, it should be thoroughly drained from the lowest point or corner, with the drain always kept clear; a stone drain is the best and most durable choice. If the floor is made with flat or rubble stones, well set in good hydraulic cement—or just cement when stones can’t be found—that’s even better. This will make it rat-proof. To keep these destructive pests away, the foundation stones in the wall should be flush at the joints and extend at least six inches on each side from the wall itself when laid on the bottom course, since rats usually burrow nearly straight down beside the wall when trying to undermine it. When they reach the bottom, if blocked by the projecting stones, they will typically give up. Hardwood planks or hard-fired bricks can also serve this purpose if stones are unavailable.
All cellar walls should be laid in good lime mortar, or if that be not practicable, they should be well pointed with it. This keeps them in place, and renders them less liable to the ingress of water and vermin. The thickness of wall should not be less than fifteen to eighteen inches, in any event, when of stone; and if the house walls above be built of stone or brick, two feet is better; and in all cases the cellar wall should be full three inches thicker than the wall resting upon it.
All cellar walls should be constructed with good lime mortar, or if that's not possible, they should be well pointed with it. This keeps them secure and makes them less susceptible to water and pests. The wall thickness should be at least fifteen to eighteen inches when made of stone; if the above house walls are made of stone or brick, two feet is preferable; and in all cases, the cellar wall should be a full three inches thicker than the wall it supports.
In the cellar of every farm house there should be an outside door, with a flight of steps by which to pass roots and other bulky or heavy articles, to which a wagon or cart may approach, either to receive or discharge them. This is indispensable.
In the cellar of every farmhouse, there should be an outside door with a set of steps to bring in roots and other bulky or heavy items, allowing a wagon or cart to come close to either load or unload them. This is essential.
Every out-building upon the farm, let it be devoted to what purpose it may, having a wooden floor on the 56 ground story, should be set up sufficiently high from the surface to admit a cat or small terrier dog beneath such floor, with openings for them to pass in and out, or these hiding places will become so many rat warrens upon the premises, and prove most destructive to the grain and poultry. Nothing can be more annoying to the farmer than these vermin, and a trifling outlay in the beginning, will exclude them from the foundations and walls of all buildings. Care, therefore, should be taken to leave no haunt for their convenience.
Every outbuilding on the farm, no matter its purpose, should have a wooden floor elevated enough from the ground to allow a cat or small terrier to crawl underneath. It should also have openings for them to come and go. Otherwise, these spots will just turn into rat nests, causing serious harm to the crops and poultry. Nothing is more frustrating for a farmer than dealing with these pests, and a small investment upfront can keep them out of the foundations and walls of all buildings. So, it's important to make sure there are no easy places for them to settle.
With these suggestions the ingenuity of every builder will provide sufficient guards against the protection of vermin beneath his buildings.
With these suggestions, the creativity of every builder will ensure there are enough safeguards against pests beneath their buildings.
VENTILATION OF HOUSES.
Pure air, and enough of it, is the cheapest blessing one can enjoy; and to deny one's self so indispensable an element of good health, is little short of criminal neglect, or the sheerest folly. Yet thousands who build at much needless expense, for the protection of their health and that of their families, as they allege, and no doubt suppose, by neglecting the simplest of all contrivances, in the work of ventilation, invite disease and infirmity, from the very pains they so unwittingly take to ward off such afflictions.
Pure air, and having plenty of it, is the easiest blessing anyone can have; and denying oneself such an essential element of good health is almost criminal neglect or pure foolishness. Yet thousands who spend a lot of money, claiming it’s for their health and that of their families, often ignore the simplest solutions for ventilation, which actually invites illness and weakness from the very efforts they make to avoid these problems.
57 A man, be he farmer or of other profession, finding himself prosperous in life, sets about the very sensible business of building a house for his own accommodation. Looking back, perhaps, to the days of his boyhood, in a severe climate, he remembers the not very highly-finished tenement of his father, and the wide, open fireplace which, with its well piled logs, was scarcely able to warm the large living-room, where the family were wont to huddle in winter. He possibly remembers, with shivering sympathy, the sprinkling of snow which he was accustomed to find upon his bed as he awaked in the morning, that had found its way through the frail casing of his chamber window—but in the midst of all which he grew up with a vigorous constitution, a strong arm, and a determined spirit. He is resolved that his children shall encounter no such hardships, and that himself and his excellent helpmate shall suffer no such inconvenience as his own parents had done, who now perhaps, are enjoying a strong and serene old age, in their old-fashioned, yet to them not uncomfortable tenement. He therefore determines to have a snug, close house, where the cold cannot penetrate. He employs all his ingenuity to make every joint an air-tight fit; the doors must swing to an air-tight joint; the windows set into air-tight frames; and to perfect the catalogue of his comforts, an air-tight stove is introduced into every occupied room which, perchance, if he can afford it, are further warmed and poisoned by the heated flues of an air-tight furnace in his air-tight cellar. In short, it is an air-tight concern throughout. His family breathe an 58 air-tight atmosphere; they eat their food cooked in an "air-tight kitchen witch," of the latest "premium pattern;" and thus they start, father, mother, children, all on the high road—if persisted in—to a galloping consumption, which sooner or later conducts them to an air-tight dwelling, not soon to be changed. If such melancholy catastrophe be avoided, colds, catarrhs, headaches, and all sorts of bodily afflictions shortly make their appearance, and they wonder what is the matter! They live so snug! their house is so warm! they sleep so comfortable! how can it be? True, in the morning the air of their sleeping-rooms feels close, but then if a window is opened it will chill the rooms, and that will give them colds. What can be the matter? The poor creatures never dream that they have been breathing, for hour after hour, decomposed air, charged with poisonous gases, which cannot escape through the tight walls, or over the tight windows, or through the tight stoves; and thus they keep on in the sure course to infirmity, disease, and premature death—all for the want of a little ventilation! Better indeed, that instead of all this painstaking, a pane were knocked out of every window, or a panel out of every door in the house.
57 A man, whether he’s a farmer or works in another job, finds himself successful in life and starts the practical task of building a house for himself. Looking back, maybe he remembers his childhood days in a harsh climate, recalling his father's not-so-great home and the big, open fireplace that, despite being stacked with logs, hardly warmed the large living room where the family used to gather in winter. He might also recall, with a sense of sympathy, the snow he often found on his bed each morning, which had slipped in through the flimsy window of his room—but despite all this, he grew up strong and resilient, with a determined spirit. He’s determined that his children won’t face such hardships and that he and his wonderful partner won’t experience the same inconveniences his parents did, who might now be enjoying their peaceful old age in their old-fashioned, yet comfortable home. So, he decides to build a cozy, sealed house that keeps out the cold. He uses all his creativity to ensure that every joint is airtight; the doors must close tightly, the windows need to fit snugly, and to enhance his comfort, he installs airtight stoves in every room, which, if he can afford it, are further heated by the vents of an airtight furnace in his airtight basement. In short, everything is airtight. His family breathes an airtight atmosphere; they cook their meals in an “airtight kitchen witch” of the latest “premium design;” and thus, they embark—father, mother, children, all—on a path that, if continued, leads to chronic illnesses, which eventually brings them to an airtight dwelling that won’t change anytime soon. If they manage to avoid such a grim fate, colds, sinus issues, headaches, and various physical ailments soon show up, leaving them puzzled about what’s wrong! They live so comfy! Their house is so warm! They sleep so well! How can this be? Sure, the air in their bedrooms feels stale in the morning, but if they open a window, it makes the rooms too cold, which could give them colds. What’s going on? The poor souls have no clue that they’ve been breathing stale air full of poisonous gases for hours, which can't escape through the tight walls, tightly shut windows, or the closed stoves; and so they continue down the inevitable path to sickness, disease, and early death—all because of a lack of ventilation! It would be better if, instead of all this effort, a pane were taken out of every window or a panel from every door in the house.
We are not disposed to talk about cellar furnaces for heating a farmer's house. They have little to do in the farmer's inventory of goods at all, unless it be to give warmth to the hall—and even then a snug box stove, with its pipe passing into the nearest chimney is, in most cases, the better appendage. Fuel is usually abundant with the farmer; and where so, its 59 benefits are much better dispensed in open stoves or fireplaces, than in heating furnaces or "air-tights."
We aren't really inclined to discuss cellar furnaces for heating a farmer's home. They hardly fit into a farmer's inventory of goods at all, unless it's to provide warmth to the main room—and even then, a cozy box stove, with its pipe going into the nearest chimney, is usually a better option. Farmers typically have plenty of fuel, and when they do, its advantages are much better utilized in open stoves or fireplaces than in heating furnaces or "airtights." 59
We have slightly discussed this subject of firing in the farm house, in a previous page, but while in the vein, must crave another word. A farmer's house should look hospitable as well as be hospitable, both outside and in; and the broadest, most cheerful look of hospitality within doors, in cold weather, is an open fire in the chimney fireplace, with the blazing wood upon it. There is no mistake about it. It thaws you out, if cold; it stirs you up, if drooping; and is the welcome, winning introduction to the good cheer that is to follow.
We briefly talked about the topic of fires in the farmhouse earlier, but since we're on the subject, I want to add a bit more. A farmer's house should not only look welcoming but also be welcoming, both inside and out. The coziest, most inviting atmosphere indoors during cold weather comes from an open fire in the fireplace, with the wood crackling away. There's no doubt about it. It warms you up when you're cold, lifts your spirits when you're feeling down, and sets the stage for the good times ahead.
A short time ago we went to pay a former town friend a visit. He had removed out to a snug little farm, where he could indulge his agricultural and horticultural tastes, yet still attend to his town engagements, and enjoy the quietude of the country. We rang the door bell. A servant admitted us; and leaving overcoat and hat in the hall, we entered a lone room, with an "air-tight" stove, looking as black and solemn as a Turkish eunuch upon us, and giving out about the same degree of genial warmth as the said eunuch would have expressed had he been there—an emasculated warming machine truly! On the floor was a Wilton carpet, too fine to stand on; around the room were mahogany sofas and mahogany chairs, all too fine to sit on—at all events to rest one upon if he were fatigued. The blessed light of day was shut out by crimson and white curtains, held up by gilded arrows; and upon the mantle piece, and on the center 60 and side tables were all sorts of gimcracks, costly and worthless. In short, there was no comfort about the whole concern. Hearing our friend coming up from his dining-room below, where too, was his cellar kitchen—that most abominable of all appendages to a farm house, or to any other country house, for that matter—we buttoned our coat up close and high, thrust our hands into our pockets, and walked the room, as he entered. "Glad to see you—glad to see you, my friend!" said he, in great joy; "but dear me, why so buttoned up, as if you were going? What's the matter?" "My good sir," we replied, "you asked us to come over and see you, 'a plain farmer,' and 'take a quiet family dinner with you.' We have done so; and here find you with all your town nonsense about you. No fire to warm by; no seat to rest in; no nothing like a farm or farmer about you; and it only needs your charming better half, whom we always admired, when she lived in town, to take down her enameled harp, and play
A little while ago, we went to visit an old friend from town. He had moved to a cozy little farm where he could enjoy his love for farming and gardening while still handling his town commitments and embracing the peace of country life. We rang the doorbell. A servant let us in; after leaving our coat and hat in the hall, we stepped into a lonely room, with an "air-tight" stove that looked as dark and heavy as a Turkish eunuch staring at us, giving off about the same amount of warm vibes that said eunuch would have shown if he had been there—truly a soulless heating machine! The floor was covered with a Wilton carpet, too delicate to walk on; the room was filled with mahogany sofas and chairs, all too fancy to sit on—at least not to actually rest in if you were tired. The blessed light of day was blocked out by crimson and white curtains, held up by gilded rods; on the mantelpiece, as well as the center and side tables, sat all sorts of trinkets, expensive yet useless. In short, there was no comfort to be found anywhere. Hearing our friend approaching from the dining room below, where he had his cellar kitchen—the most dreadful addition to a farmhouse or any country house, for that matter—we buttoned our coats up tight, shoved our hands into our pockets, and paced the room as he came in. "So good to see you—so good to see you, my friend!" he exclaimed joyfully; "but why all buttoned up, like you’re about to leave? What’s wrong?" "Well, my good sir," we replied, "you invited us over to see you, 'a plain farmer,' and 'have a quiet family dinner with you.' We’ve done just that; yet here we find you surrounded by all your town nonsense. No fire to warm up by; no seat to relax in; nothing that feels like a farm or a farmer here; and all that’s left is for your lovely wife, whom we always admired when she lived in town, to take down her decorated harp and play."
'In fairy bowers by moonlight hours,'
'In magical groves during moonlit hours,'
to convince one that instead of ruralizing in the country, you had gone a peg higher in town residence! No, no, we'll go down to farmer Jocelyn's, our old schoolfellow, and take a dinner of bacon and cabbage with him. If he does occupy a one-story house, he lives up in sunshine, has an open fireplace, with a blazing wood fire on a chilly day, and his 'latch string is always out.'"
to convince someone that instead of living in the countryside, you'd elevated your stay in town! No, no, let's go visit farmer Jocelyn, our old school friend, and have a meal of bacon and cabbage with him. Even if he lives in a one-story house, he enjoys the sunshine, has an open fireplace with a cozy wood fire on a cold day, and his 'latch string is always out.'
Our friend was petrified—astonished! We meant 61 to go it rather strong upon him, but still kept a frank, good-humored face, that showed him no malice. He began to think he was not exactly in character, and essayed to explain. We listened to his story. His good wife came in, and all together, we had a long talk of their family and farming arrangements; how they had furnished their house; and how they proposed to live; but wound up with a sad story, that their good farming neighbors didn't call on them the second time—kind, civil people they appeared, too—and while they were in, acted as though afraid to sit down, and afraid to stand up;—in short, they were dreadfully embarrassed; for why, our friends couldn't tell, but now began to understand it. "Well, my good friends," said we, "you have altogether mistaken country life in the outset. To live on a farm, it is neither necessary to be vulgar, nor clownish, nor to affect ignorance. Simplicity is all you require, in manners, and equal simplicity in your furniture and appointments. Now just turn all this nonsense in furniture and room dressing out of doors, and let some of your town friends have it. Get some simple, comfortable, cottage furniture, much better for all purposes, than this, and you will settle down into quiet, natural country life before you are aware of it, and all will go 'merry as a marriage bell' with you, in a little time"—for they both loved the country, and were truly excellent people. We continued, "I came to spend the day and the night, and I will stay; and this evening we'll go down to your neighbor Jocelyn's; and you, Mrs. N——, shall go with us; and we will see how quietly and 62 comfortably he and his family take the world in a farmer's way."
Our friend was shocked—amazed! We intended to be a bit tough on him, but we kept a genuine, friendly expression that showed we meant him no harm. He started to feel like he wasn’t quite in his element and tried to explain himself. We listened to his story. His lovely wife came in, and together we had a long discussion about their family and farming plans; how they had set up their home; and how they planned to live. But it ended on a sad note, as they mentioned that their nice farming neighbors didn't visit them a second time—kind, polite people they seemed to be—and while they were there, it felt like they were too scared to sit down or even stand up; in short, they were incredibly awkward; but why, our friends couldn't figure out, although they were starting to get it. "Well, my good friends," we said, "you’ve completely misunderstood country life from the start. Living on a farm doesn’t mean you have to be rude, silly, or pretend to be uneducated. Simplicity is all you need, in both manners and your furniture and decor. Just get rid of all this unnecessary furniture and decoration outside, and let some of your city friends have it. Get some simple, cozy cottage furniture, which is much better for all purposes than this, and you'll settle into a calm, natural country life before you know it, and everything will be 'merry as a marriage bell' for you in no time"—because they both loved the countryside and were genuinely wonderful people. We continued, "I came to spend the day and night, and I'm staying; and this evening, we'll go to your neighbor Jocelyn's; and you, Mrs. N——, will join us; and we’ll see how peacefully and comfortably he and his family enjoy life as farmers."
We did go; not in carriage and livery, but walked the pleasant half mile that lay between them; the exercise of which gave us all activity and good spirits. Jocelyn was right glad to see us, and Patty, his staid and sober wife, with whom we had romped many an innocent hour in our childhood days, was quite as glad as he. But they looked a little surprised that such "great folks" as their new neighbors, should drop in so unceremoniously, and into their common "keeping room," too, to chat away an evening. However, the embarrassment soon wore off. We talked of farming; we talked of the late elections; we talked of the fruit trees and the strawberry beds; and Mrs. Jocelyn, who was a pattern of good housekeeping, told Mrs. N—— how she made her apple jellies, and her currant tarts, and cream cheeses; and before we left they had exchanged ever so many engagements,—Mrs. Patty to learn her new friend to do half a dozen nice little matters of household pickling and preserving; while she, in turn, was to teach Nancy and Fanny, Patty's two rosy-cheeked daughters, almost as pretty as their mother was at their own age, to knit a bead bag and work a fancy chair seat! And then we had apples and nuts, all of the very best—for Jocelyn was a rare hand at grafting and managing his fruit trees, and knew the best apples all over the country. We had, indeed, a capital time! To cut the story short, the next spring our friend sent his fancy furniture to auction, and provided his house with simple cottage furnishings, at 63 less than half the cost of the other; which both he and his wife afterward declared was infinitely better, for all house-keeping purposes. He also threw a neat wing on to the cottage, for an upper kitchen and its offices, and they now live like sensible country folks; and with their healthy, frolicksome children, are worth the envy of all the dyspeptic, town-fed people in existence.
We went, not in a carriage or fancy clothes, but strolled the pleasant half mile between our places, which gave us all some energy and good spirits. Jocelyn was really happy to see us, and Patty, his serious and steady wife, who we had played with many innocent hours during our childhood, was just as happy as he was. But they looked a bit surprised that such "important people" as their new neighbors would drop by so casually, and into their common "keeping room," too, to chat away an evening. However, the awkwardness quickly faded. We talked about farming; we talked about the recent elections; we talked about the fruit trees and the strawberry beds; and Mrs. Jocelyn, who was a great example of good housekeeping, told Mrs. N— how she made her apple jellies, currant tarts, and cream cheeses; and before we left, they had made numerous plans—Mrs. Patty was going to teach her new friend how to do half a dozen nice little household pickling and preserving tasks; while she, in turn, was going to teach Nancy and Fanny, Patty's two rosy-cheeked daughters, almost as pretty as their mother was at their age, to knit a bead bag and work a fancy chair seat! Then we enjoyed apples and nuts, all top quality—Jocelyn was excellent at grafting and managing his fruit trees, and knew the best apples around. We really had a great time! To cut a long story short, the next spring our friend sold his fancy furniture at auction and furnished his house with simple cottage furnishings for less than half the cost of the other; both he and his wife later said it was way better for all housekeeping purposes. He also added a neat wing to the cottage for an upstairs kitchen and its workspace, and they now live like sensible country folks; with their healthy, playful children, they're the envy of all the unhealthy city-dwellers out there.
A long digression, truly; but so true a story, and one so apt to our subject can not well be omitted. But what has all this to do with ventilation? We'll tell you. Jocelyn's house was ventilated as it should be;—for he was a methodical, thoughtful man, who planned and built his house himself—not the mechanical work, but directed it throughout, and saw that it was faithfully done; and that put us in mind of the story.
A long detour, for sure; but it's such a true story, and it connects so well to our topic that we can't leave it out. But what does this have to do with ventilation? We'll explain. Jocelyn's house was ventilated properly;—because he was an organized, thoughtful guy who designed and oversaw the construction of his house himself—not the actual building work, but he directed it all and made sure it was done right; and that reminded us of the story.
To be perfect in its ventilation, every room in the house, even to the closets, should be so arranged that a current of air may pass through, to keep it pure and dry. In living rooms, fresh air in sufficient quantity may usually be admitted through the doors. In sleeping rooms and closets, when doors may not be left open, one or more of the lower panels of the door may be filled by a rolling blind, opening more or less, at pleasure; or a square or oblong opening for that purpose, may be left in the base board, at the floor, and covered by a wire netting. And in all rooms, living apartments, as well as these, an opening of at least sixty-four square inches should be made in the wall, near the ceiling, and leading into an air flue, to pass into the garret. Such opening may be filled by a 64 rolling blind, or wire screen, as below, and closed or kept open, at pleasure. Some builders prefer an air register to be placed in the chimney, over the fireplace or stove, near the ceiling; but the liability to annoyance, by smoke escaping through it into the room, if not thoroughly done, is an objection to this latter method, and the other may be made, in its construction, rather ornamental than otherwise, in appearance. All such details as these should be planned when the building is commenced, so that the several flues may be provided as the building proceeds. In a stone or brick house, a small space may be left in the walls, against which these air registers may be required; and for inner rooms, or closets, they may pass off into the openings of the partitions, and so up into the garret; from which apertures of escape may be left, or made at the gables, under the roof, or by a blind in a window.
For optimal ventilation, every room in the house, including closets, should be arranged to allow a flow of air to keep it fresh and dry. In living rooms, fresh air can usually come in through the doors. In bedrooms and closets, when doors can’t be left open, one or more of the lower panels of the door can be fitted with a rolling blind that can be adjusted as needed, or a square or rectangular opening can be left in the baseboard at the floor, covered with wire netting. Additionally, in all rooms, including living spaces and others, there should be an opening of at least sixty-four square inches near the ceiling, leading into an air flue that connects to the attic. This opening can also be covered with a rolling blind or wire screen and can be opened or closed as desired. Some builders prefer to place an air register in the chimney above the fireplace or stove near the ceiling; however, this method has the drawback of potentially allowing smoke to escape into the room if not properly done. The other method can be designed to be more visually appealing. All these details should be planned when construction begins so that the necessary flues can be integrated as the building progresses. In a stone or brick house, a small space can be left in the walls for the air registers, and for inner rooms or closets, they can connect to openings in the partitions, extending up into the attic. From there, openings for air escape can be created at the gables, under the roof, or by adding a blind in a window.
For the admission of air to the first floor of the house, a special opening through the walls, for that purpose, can hardly be necessary; as the doors leading outside are usually opened often enough for such object. One of the best ventilated houses we have ever seen, is that owned and occupied by Samuel Cloon, Esq., of Cincinnati. It is situated on his farm, three miles out of the city, and in its fine architectural appearance and finished appointments, as a rural residence and first-class farm house, is not often excelled. Every closet is ventilated through rolling blinds in the door panels; and foul air, either admitted or created within them, is passed off at once by flues near the ceiling overhead, passing into conductors leading off through the garret.
For letting air into the first floor of the house, a special opening in the walls is probably not necessary since the doors leading outside are usually opened often enough for that purpose. One of the best-ventilated houses we've ever seen belongs to Samuel Cloon, Esq., in Cincinnati. It's located on his farm, three miles from the city, and in terms of its beautiful architectural design and quality finishes, it's hard to find a better rural residence and first-class farmhouse. Every closet has ventilation through rolling blinds in the door panels, and any stale air, whether coming in or created inside, is quickly expelled through flues near the ceiling that lead into ducts running through the attic.
65 Where chambers are carried into the roof of a house, to any extent, they are sometimes incommoded by the summer heat which penetrates them, conducted by the chamber ceiling overhead. This heat can best be obviated by inserting a small window at each opposite peak of the garret, by which the outside air can circulate through, above the chambers, and so pass off the heated air, which will continually ascend. All this is a simple matter, for which any builder can provide, without particular expense or trouble.
65 When rooms are built into the roof of a house, they can sometimes get too hot in the summer due to the heat coming from the ceiling above. The best way to fix this is by adding a small window at each opposite peak of the attic. This allows fresh air from outside to flow through the space above the rooms and carry away the rising hot air. It’s a straightforward solution that any builder can implement without much cost or effort.
INTERIOR ACCOMMODATION OF HOUSES.
Ground, in the country, being the cheapest item which the farmer can devote to building purposes, his object should be to spread over, rather than to go deeply into it, or climb high in the air above it. We repudiate cellar kitchens, or under-ground rooms for house work, altogether, as being little better than a nuisance—dark, damp, unhealthy, inconvenient, and expensive. The several rooms of a farm dwelling house should be compact in arrangement, and contiguous as may be to the principally-occupied apartments. Such arrangement is cheaper, more convenient, and labor-saving; and in addition, more in accordance with a good and correct taste in the outward appearance of the house itself.
Land, in rural areas, is the most affordable resource a farmer can use for construction, so the goal should be to spread out rather than dig deep or build high. We completely reject cellar kitchens or underground workspaces, as they are hardly better than a nuisance—dark, damp, unhealthy, inconvenient, and costly. The various rooms of a farmhouse should be compactly arranged and as close as possible to the main living spaces. This layout is cheaper, more convenient, and saves labor, while also aligning with a good and proper aesthetic for the house itself.
66 The general introduction of cooking stoves, and other stoves and apparatus for warming houses, within the last twenty years, which we acknowledge to be a great acquisition in comfort as well as in convenience and economy, has been carried to an extreme, not only in shutting up and shutting out the time-honored open fireplace and its broad hearthstone, with their hallowed associations, but also in prejudice to the health of those who so indiscriminately use them, regardless of other arrangements which ought to go with them. A farm house should never be built without an ample, open fireplace in its kitchen, and other principally occupied rooms; and in all rooms where stoves are placed, and fires are daily required, the open Franklin should take place of the close or air-tight stove, unless extraordinary ventilation to such rooms be adopted also. The great charm of the farmer's winter evening is the open fireside, with its cheerful blaze and glowing embers; not wastefully expended, but giving out that genial warmth and comfort which, to those who are accustomed to its enjoyment, is a pleasure not made up by any invention whatever; and although the cooking stove or range be required—which, in addition to the fireplace, we would always recommend, to lighten female labor—it can be so arranged as not to interfere with the enjoyment or convenience of the open fire.
66 The widespread use of cooking stoves and other heating devices in homes over the last twenty years has significantly improved comfort, convenience, and efficiency. However, this has gone too far in some cases, leading to the neglect of the traditional open fireplace and its wide hearth, which hold cherished memories. Additionally, this shift can negatively impact the health of those who use these stoves without consideration of necessary ventilation. A farmhouse should always include a large, open fireplace in its kitchen and other frequently used rooms. In all rooms where stoves are installed and where fires are needed daily, the open Franklin stove should replace the closed or airtight stove, unless proper ventilation is also added. The true charm of a farmer's winter evening lies in the open fireside, with its warm glow and comforting embers; it provides a warmth and coziness that no modern invention can replicate. While a cooking stove or range is also necessary, and we recommend it to ease the burden of household tasks, it should be arranged in a way that does not compromise the enjoyment and convenience of the open fire.
In the construction of the chimneys which appear in the plans submitted, the great majority of them—particularly those for northern latitudes—are placed in the interior of the house. They are less liable to 67 communicate fire to the building, and assist greatly in warming the rooms through which they pass. In southern houses they are not so necessary, fires being required for a much less period of the year. Yet even there they may be oftentimes properly so placed. Where holes, for the passage of stovepipes through floors, partitions, or into chimneys, are made, stone, earthen, or iron thimbles should be inserted; and, except in the chimneys, such holes should be at least one to two inches larger than the pipe itself. The main flues of the chimney conducting off the smoke of the different fires, should be built separate, and kept apart by a partition of one brick in thickness, and carried out independently, as in no other way will they rid the house of smoky rooms.
In constructing the chimneys shown in the submitted plans, most of them—especially those for colder climates—are located inside the house. This reduces the risk of fire spreading to the building and helps to warm the rooms they go through. In southern homes, they are less essential since fires are needed for a much shorter period each year. However, they can still be appropriately positioned there. When creating openings for stovepipes through floors, walls, or into chimneys, stone, clay, or metal thimbles should be used; and, except in the chimneys, these openings should be at least one to two inches larger than the pipe itself. The main flues of the chimney that carry away the smoke from different fires should be built separately and divided by a wall that is one brick thick, and they should be vented independently, as this is the only way to keep the house free of smoky rooms.
An illustration in point: Fifteen years ago we purchased and removed
into a most substantial and well-built stone house, the chimneys of
which were constructed with open fireplaces, and the flues carried up
separately to the top, where they all met upon the same level surface,
as chimneys in past times usually were built, thus. Every fireplace in
the house (and some of them had stoves in,) smoked intolerably; so much
so, that when the wind was in some quarters the fires had to be put out
in every room but the kitchen, which, as good luck would have it, smoked
less—although it did smoke there—than the others. After
balancing the matter in our own mind some time, whether we should pull
down and rebuild the chimneys
68
altogether, or attempt an alteration; as we had given but little thought
to the subject of chimney draft, and to try an experiment was the
cheapest, we set to work a bricklayer, who, under our direction, simply
built over each discharge of the several flues a separate top of fifteen
inches high, in this wise: The remedy was perfect. We have had no smoke
in the house since, blow the wind as it may, on any and all occasions.
The chimneys can't smoke; and the whole expense for four
chimneys, with their twelve flues, was not twenty dollars! The remedy
was in giving each outlet a distinct current of air all around,
and on every side of it.
Here’s an example: Fifteen years ago, we bought and moved into a solidly built stone house with chimneys that had open fireplaces, where the flues rose separately to the top, all meeting at the same level, as chimneys used to be built. Every fireplace in the house (and some had stoves) smoked unbelievably; it got so bad that when the wind blew a certain way, we had to put out the fires in every room except the kitchen, which, as luck would have it, smoked less—though it still smoked—than the others. After thinking for a while about whether we should tear down and rebuild the chimneys
68
completely or just make some modifications; since we hadn’t given much thought to chimney draft, and trying out a fix was the cheapest option, we hired a bricklayer who, under our guidance, simply built a separate fifteen-inch tall top over each flue, like this: The solution worked perfectly. We haven’t had any smoke in the house since, no matter how the wind blows, at any time. The chimneys can’t smoke; and the total cost for four chimneys and their twelve flues was less than twenty dollars! The solution was giving each outlet a distinct flow of air all around it.
CHIMNEY TOPS.
Nothing adds more to the outward expression of a dwelling, than the style of its chimneys. We have just shown that independent chimney tops pass off their smoke more perfectly, than when only partitioned inside to the common point of outlet. Aside from the architectural beauty which a group of chimney flues adds to the building, we have seen that they are really useful, beyond the formal, square-sided piles so common throughout the country. They denote good cheer, 69 social firesides, and a generous hospitality within—features which should always mark the country dwelling; and more particularly that of the farmer.
Nothing enhances the appearance of a home more than the style of its chimneys. We've just demonstrated that standalone chimney tops vent smoke more effectively than those that are only connected internally to a central outlet. Beyond the architectural appeal that a cluster of chimney flues brings to the building, we've seen that they serve a practical purpose, unlike the plain, boxy structures that are so common across the country. They signify warmth, welcoming spaces, and generous hospitality inside—qualities that should always define a country home, especially that of a farmer. 69
The style and arrangement of these chimney groups may be various, as comporting with the design of the house itself; and any good architect can arrange them as fitted to such design. Our illustrations will show them of different kinds, which are generally cheap in construction, and simple, yet expressive in their arrangement.
The style and layout of these chimney groups can vary to match the design of the house itself, and any skilled architect can arrange them to fit that design. Our illustrations will showcase different types, which are typically inexpensive to build and straightforward, yet effective in their arrangement.
PRELIMINARY TO OUR DESIGNS.
We have discussed with tolerable fullness, the chief subjects connected with farm buildings—sufficiently so, we trust, to make ourselves understood as desiring to combine utility with commendable ornament in all that pertains to them. The object has been, thus far, to give hints, rather than models, in description. But as the point to which we have endeavored to arrive will be but imperfectly understood without illustration, we shall submit a few plans of houses and outbuildings, as carrying out more fully our ideas.
We have talked about the main topics related to farm buildings in enough detail, we hope, to make it clear that we want to combine practicality with attractive design in everything related to them. Our goal so far has been to provide suggestions rather than strict examples in our descriptions. However, since our conclusions won’t be fully understood without visuals, we will present some plans for houses and outbuildings that better represent our ideas.
We are quite aware that different forms or fashions of detail and finish, to both outside and inside work, prevail among builders in different sections of the United States. Some of these fashions are the result of climate, some of conventional taste, and some of 70 education. With them we are not disposed to quarrel. In many cases they are immaterial to the main objects of the work, and so long as they please the taste or partialities of those adopting them, are of little consequence. There are, however, certain matters of principle, both in general construction and in the detail of finish, which should not be disregarded; and these, in the designs submitted, and in the explanations which follow, will be fully discussed, each in its place. The particular form or style of work we have not directed, because, as before remarked, we are no professional builder, and of course free from the dogmas which are too apt to be inculcated in the professional schools and workshops. We give a wide berth, and a free toleration in all such matters, and are not disposed to raise a hornet's nest about our ears by interfering in matters where every tyro of the drafting board and work-bench assumes to be, and probably may be, our superior. All minor subjects we are free to leave to the skill and ingenuity of the builder—who, fortunately for the country, is found in almost every village and hamlet of the land.
We understand that different styles and details for exterior and interior work vary among builders in different parts of the United States. Some of these styles come from the climate, some from traditional tastes, and some from education. We’re not looking to argue about those. In many cases, they don’t affect the main goals of the work, and as long as they satisfy the preferences of those using them, they don’t matter much. However, there are certain principles, both in general construction and finish details, that shouldn't be ignored; these will be thoroughly discussed in the designs presented and in the accompanying explanations. We haven't specified a particular form or style of work since, as mentioned earlier, we're not professional builders and aren’t bound by the rigid ideas often taught in professional schools and workshops. We allow for a great deal of flexibility and tolerance in these matters and don't want to create conflict where even the most inexperienced person on the drafting board or workbench might be seen as our superior. All minor issues can be left to the skill and creativity of the builder—who, thankfully for the country, can be found in nearly every village and town.
Modes and styles of finish, both inside and outside of buildings, change; and that so frequently, that what is laid down as the reigning fashion to-day, may be superseded by another fashion of to-morrow—immaterial in themselves, only, and not affecting the shape, arrangement, and accommodation of the building itself, which in these, must ever maintain their relation with the use for which it is intended. The northern dwelling, with its dependencies and appointments, requires 71 a more compact, snug, and connected arrangement than that of the south; while one in the middle states may assume a style of arrangement between them both, each fitted for their own climate and country, and in equally good taste. The designs we are about to submit are intended to be such as may be modified to any section of the country, although some of them are made for extremes of north and south, and are so distinguished. Another object we have had in view is, to give to every farmer and country dweller of moderate means the opportunity of possessing a cheap work which would guide him in the general objects which he wishes to accomplish in building, that he may have his own notions on the subject, and not be subject to the caprice and government of such as profess to exclusive knowledge in all that appertains to such subjects, and in which, it need not be offensive to say, that although clever in their way, they are sometimes apt to be mistaken.
Building finishes, both inside and outside, are constantly changing; what's trendy today can quickly be replaced by a new style tomorrow. These changes are superficial and don't affect the overall design, layout, and purpose of the building itself, which must always align with its intended use. Northern homes, with their features and arrangements, need a more compact and connected design than those in the south. In the middle states, a style can blend elements from both regions, each suited to their specific climates and all equally tasteful. The designs we're about to present can be adapted for any region, although some are specifically for extreme northern or southern climates and are labeled as such. Another goal we have is to provide every farmer and rural resident of moderate means with an affordable resource that will help them achieve their building goals, so they can have their own ideas on the topic instead of relying solely on those with self-proclaimed expertise, who, while knowledgeable, can sometimes be mistaken.
Therefore, without assuming to instruct the professional builder, our plans will be submitted, not without the hope that he even, may find in them something worthy of consideration; and we offer them to the owner and future occupant of the buildings themselves, as models which he may adopt, with the confidence that they will answer all his reasonable purposes.
Therefore, without trying to teach the professional builder, we will submit our plans, hoping he might find something worth considering; and we present them to the owner and future occupant of the buildings as models they can adopt, confident that they will meet all their reasonable needs.
FARM HOUSE. Pages 73-74.
Farmhouse. Pages 73-74.
Design I.
We here present a farm house of the simplest and most unpretending kind, suitable for a farm of twenty, fifty, or an hundred acres. Buildings somewhat in this style are not unfrequently seen in the New England States, and in New York; and the plan is in fact suggested, although not copied, from some farm houses which we have known there, with improvements and additions of our own.
We present a farmhouse of the simplest and least pretentious kind, suitable for a farm of twenty, fifty, or one hundred acres. Buildings in this style are often seen in New England and New York; this plan is actually inspired by some farmhouses we've seen there, though it’s not a direct copy, with our own improvements and additions.
This house may be built either of stone, brick, or wood. The style is rather rustic than otherwise, and intended to be altogether plain, yet agreeable in outward appearance, and of quite convenient arrangement. The body of this house is 40×30 feet on the ground, and 12 feet high, to the plates for the roof; the lower rooms nine feet high; the roof intended for a pitch of 35°—but, by an error in the drawing, made less—thus affording very tolerable chamber room in the roof story. The L, or rear projection, containing the wash-room and wood-house, juts out two feet from the side of the house to which it is attached, with posts 7½ feet high above the floor of the main house; the pitch of the roof being the same. Beyond this is a building 32×24 feet, with 10 feet posts, partitioned off into a swill-room, piggery, workshop, and wagon-house, and a like roof with the others. A light, rustic porch, 75 12×8 feet, with lattice work, is placed on the front of the house, and another at the side door, over which vines, by way of drapery, may run; thus combining that sheltered, comfortable, and home-like expression so desirable in a rural dwelling. The chimney is carried out in three separate flues, sufficiently marked by the partitions above the roof. The windows are hooded, or sheltered, to protect them from the weather, and fitted with simple sliding sashes with 7×9 or 8×10 glass. Outer blinds may be added, if required; but it is usually better to have these inside, as they are no ornament to the outside of the building, are liable to be driven back and forth by the wind, even if fastenings are used, and in any event are little better than a continual annoyance.
This house can be built from stone, brick, or wood. The style is more rustic than anything else and is meant to be plain but still pleasant to look at and quite functional. The main part of the house measures 40×30 feet on the ground and is 12 feet high at the roof plates; the lower rooms are nine feet high. The roof was intended to have a pitch of 35°, but due to a drawing error, it turned out to be shallower, providing decent room in the upper story. The L-shaped rear extension includes a washroom and wood storage, protruding two feet from the side of the main house, with posts 7½ feet high above the main house's floor; the roof pitch matches the rest. Beyond this, there is another building that’s 32×24 feet, with 10-foot posts, divided into a swill room, pig pen, workshop, and wagon house, and has the same roof style as the others. A light, rustic porch measuring 12×8 feet with lattice work is on the front of the house, and another is at the side door, where vines can drape over it, creating that sheltered, cozy, and homey feel that’s so appealing in a country home. The chimney features three separate flues, clearly visible above the roof’s partitions. The windows are hooded to protect them from the weather and have simple sliding sashes with 7×9 or 8×10 glass. Outer blinds can be added if needed, but it's usually better to have them inside since they don’t enhance the look of the outside, can get blown around by the wind even with fastenings, and are generally more of a hassle than anything else.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
GROUND PLAN.
FLOOR PLAN.
The front door, over which is a single sash-light across, opens into a hall or entry 9×7 feet, from which a door opens on either side into a sitting-room and parlor, each 16×15 feet, lighted by a double, plain window, at the ends, and a single two-sash window in front. Between the entrance door and stove, are in each room a small pantry or closet for dishes, or otherwise, as may be required. The chimney stands in the center of the house, with a separate flue for each front room, into which a thimble is inserted to receive the stovepipes by which they are warmed; and from the inner side of these rooms each has a door passing to the kitchen, or chief living room. This last apartment 77 is 22×15 feet, with a broad fireplace containing a crane, hooks, and trammel, if required, and a spacious family oven—affording those homely and primitive comforts still so dear to many of us who are not ready to concede that all the virtues of the present day are combined in a "perfection" cooking stove, and a "patent" heater; although there is a chance for these last, if they should be adopted into the peaceful atmosphere of this kitchen.
The front door, topped with a single sash light, opens into a hallway measuring 9×7 feet, from which doors lead on either side into a sitting room and a parlor, each 16×15 feet, lit by a double plain window at each end and a single two-sash window in front. Between the entrance door and the stove, each room has a small pantry or closet for dishes or other needs. The chimney is located in the center of the house, with a separate flue for each front room, each fitted with a thimble to connect with the stovepipes for heating; from the inner side of these rooms, there’s a door leading to the kitchen, or main living area. This final room is 22×15 feet, featuring a large fireplace equipped with a crane, hooks, and trammel as needed, along with a spacious family oven—providing those cozy and basic comforts that many of us still cherish, who are not ready to believe that all the good qualities of today can be found in a "perfect" cooking stove or a "patent" heater; though there is room for these last options, if they were to be embraced within the tranquil atmosphere of this kitchen.
On one side of the kitchen, in rear of the stairs, is a bedroom, 9×8 feet, with a window in one corner. Adjoining that, is a buttery, dairy-room, or closet, 9×6 feet, also having a window. At the inner end of the stairway is the cellar passage; at the outer end is the chamber passage, landing above, in the highest part of the roof story. Opposite the chamber stairs is a door leading to the wash-room. Between the two windows, on the rear side of the kitchen, is a sink, with a waste pipe passing out through the wall. At the further corner a door opens into a snug bedroom 9×8 feet, lighted by a window in rear; and adjoining this is a 78 side entry leading from the end door, 9×6 feet in area; thus making every room in the house accessible at once from the kitchen, and giving the greatest possible convenience in both living and house-work.
On one side of the kitchen, behind the stairs, is a bedroom that measures 9×8 feet, with a window in one corner. Next to it is a buttery, dairy room, or closet, 9×6 feet, which also has a window. At the inner end of the staircase is the cellar passage; at the outer end is the chamber passage, landing above in the highest part of the roof. Across from the chamber stairs is a door that leads to the washroom. Between the two windows on the back side of the kitchen is a sink with a waste pipe going out through the wall. In the far corner, a door opens into a cozy bedroom measuring 9×8 feet, illuminated by a window at the back; next to this is a 78 side entry that leads from the end door, which is 9×6 feet in area. This layout makes every room in the house easily accessible from the kitchen, offering maximum convenience for both living and household chores.
The roof story is partitioned into convenient-sized bedrooms; the ceiling running down the pitch of the roof to within two feet of the floor, unless they are cut short by inner partitions, as they are in the largest chamber, to give closets. The open area in the center, at the head of the stairs, is lighted by a small gable window inserted in the roof, at the rear, and serves as a lumber room; or, if necessary, a bed may occupy a part of it.
The attic is divided into comfortably-sized bedrooms, with the ceiling sloping down from the roof to about two feet above the floor, unless interrupted by interior walls, as in the largest room, to create closets. The open space in the center, at the top of the stairs, gets light from a small gable window in the rear of the roof and acts as a storage area; or, if needed, a bed can take up part of it.
In rear of the main dwelling is a building 44×16 feet, occupied as a wash-room and wood-house. The wash-room floor is let down eight inches below the kitchen, and is 16×14 feet, in area, lighted by a window on each side, with a chimney, in which is set a boiler, and fireplace, if desired, and a sink in the corner adjoining. This room is 7½ feet in height. A door passes from this wash-room into the wood-house, which is 30×16 feet, open in front, with a water-closet in the further corner.
Behind the main house, there’s a building measuring 44 by 16 feet, used as a laundry room and wood storage. The laundry room floor is eight inches lower than the kitchen and is 16 by 14 feet in size, illuminated by a window on each side. It has a chimney with a boiler inside and a fireplace, if needed, along with a sink in the corner. This room has a height of 7½ feet. There’s a door leading from the laundry room into the wood storage, which is 30 by 16 feet, open at the front, with a bathroom in the far corner.
The cellar is 7½ feet in height—and is the whole size of the house, laid with good stone wall, in lime mortar, with a flight of steps leading outside, in rear of the kitchen, and two or more sash-light windows at the ends. If not in a loose, gravelly, or sandy soil, the cellar should be kept dry by a drain leading out on to lower ground.
The cellar is 7½ feet tall and takes up the entire size of the house, built with solid stone walls and lime mortar. There’s a set of stairs leading outside at the back of the kitchen, along with two or more sash-light windows at the ends. If it isn’t situated in loose, gravelly, or sandy soil, the cellar should stay dry with a drain that leads out to lower ground.
The building beyond, and adjoining the wood-house, 79 contains a swill-house 16×12 feet, with a window in one end; a chimney and boiler in one corner, with storage for swill barrels, grain, meal, potatoes, &c., for feeding the pigs, which are in the adjoining pen of same size, with feeding trough, place for sleeping, &c., and having a window in one end and a door in the rear, leading to a yard.
The building next to the wood-house 79 has a swill-house that's 16 by 12 feet, with a window at one end; it includes a chimney and a boiler in one corner, along with storage for swill barrels, grain, meal, potatoes, etc., for feeding the pigs, which are kept in the adjoining pen of the same size. This pen has a feeding trough, a sleeping area, etc., with a window at one end and a door at the back that leads to a yard.
Adjoining these, in front, is a workshop and tool-house, 16×10 feet, with a window at the end, and an entrance door near the wood house. In this is a joiner's work-bench, a chest of working tools, such as saw, hammer, augers, &c., &c., necessary for repairing implements, doing little rough jobs, or other wood work, &c., which every farmer ought to do for himself; and also storing his hoes, axes, shovels, hammers, and other small farm implements. In this room he will find abundant rainy-day employment in repairing his utensils of various kinds, making his beehives, hencoops, &c., &c. Next to this is the wagon-house, 16×14 feet, with broad doors at the end, and harness pegs around the walls.
Adjoining these, in front, is a workshop and tool shed, 16×10 feet, with a window at the end and an entrance door near the wood house. Inside, there is a carpenter's workbench, a chest of tools like a saw, hammer, augers, etc., necessary for repairing equipment, handling small jobs, or other woodworking tasks that every farmer should manage themselves. It’s also used for storing hoes, axes, shovels, hammers, and other small farm tools. In this room, he will find plenty of work for rainy days by repairing various utensils, making beehives, chicken coops, etc. Next to this is the wagon shed, 16×14 feet, with wide doors at the end and harness pegs along the walls.
The posts of this building are 10 feet high; the rooms eight feet high, and a low chamber overhead for storing lumber, grain, and other articles, as may be required. Altogether, these several apartments make a very complete and desirable accommodation to a man with the property and occupation for which it is intended.
The posts of this building are 10 feet high; the rooms are eight feet high, and there’s a low chamber above for storing lumber, grain, and other items as needed. Overall, these various spaces provide a very complete and desirable setup for someone with the property and work for which it is designed.
On one side and adjoining the house, should be the garden, the clothes-yard, and the bee-house, which last should always stand in full sight, and facing the most frequented room—say the kitchen—that they can be 80 seen daily during the swarming season, as those performing household duties may keep them in view.
On one side next to the house, there should be a garden, a laundry area, and a bee house. The bee house should always be in clear sight and facing the most used room—let's say the kitchen—so it can be seen daily during the swarming season, allowing those doing household chores to keep an eye on it. 80
MISCELLANEOUS.
In regard to the surroundings, and approach to this dwelling, they should be treated under the suggestions already given on these subjects. This is an exceedingly snug tenement, and everything around and about it should be of the same character. No pretension or frippery whatever. A neat garden, usefully, rather than ornamentally and profusely supplied; a moderate court-yard in front; free access to the end door, from the main every-day approach by vehicles—not on the highway, but on the farm road or lane—the business entrance, in fact; which should also lead to the barns and sheds beyond, not far distant. Every feature should wear a most domestic look, and breathe an air of repose and content. Trees should be near, but not so near as to cover the house. A few shrubs of simple kind—some standing roses—a few climbing ones; a syringa, a lilac, a snow ball, and a little patch or two of flowers near the front porch, and the whole expression is given; just as one would wish to look upon as a simple, unpretending habitation.
When it comes to the setting and approach to this home, they should follow the earlier advice on these topics. This is a really cozy place, and everything around it should reflect that vibe. No showiness or excess. A tidy garden that serves a purpose rather than just for looks; a modest courtyard in front; easy access to the side door from the main daily route for vehicles—not on the main road, but on the farm road or lane—essentially the service entrance, which should also connect to the barns and sheds not far away. Every element should have a warm, welcoming feel and radiate a sense of peace and contentment. Trees should be nearby, but not so close that they hide the house. A few simple shrubs, some standing roses, a few climbing roses; a lilac, a snowball bush, and a small patch or two of flowers near the front porch, and that captures the whole look—just how one would want to see a simple, unpretentious home.
It is not here proposed to give working plans, or estimates, to a nicety; or particular directions for building any design even, that we present. The material for construction best suited to the circumstances and locality of the proprietor must govern all those matters; and as good builders are in most cases at 81 hand, who are competent to give estimates for the cost of any given plan, when the material for construction is once settled, the question of expense is readily fixed. The same sized house, with the same accommodation, may be made to cost fifty to one hundred per cent. over an economical estimate, by the increased style, or manner of its finish; or it may be kept within bounds by a rigid adherence to the plan first adopted.
It’s not our intention to provide detailed working plans or precise cost estimates, nor specific instructions for building any of the designs we offer. The choice of construction materials best suited to the owner’s circumstances and location should determine all these factors. Since skilled builders are usually available to provide estimates once the materials are decided, the overall expense can be easily determined. The same house, with the same features, can cost fifty to a hundred percent more than a budget estimate due to an upgraded style or finish, or it can stay within limits by strictly following the original plan. 81
In western New York this house and attachments complete, the body of stone, the wood-house, wagon-house, &c., of wood, may be built and well finished in a plain way for $1,500. If built altogether of wood, with grooved and matched vertical boarding, and battens, the whole may be finished and painted for $800, to $1,200. For the lowest sum, the lumber and work would be of a rough kind, with a cheap wash to color it; but the latter amount would give good work, and a lasting coat of mineral paint both outside and within.
In western New York, this complete house and its structures—like the stone body, the wooden house, the wagon shed, etc.—can be built and finished simply for $1,500. If everything is made from wood, with grooved and matched vertical boards and battens, the entire project can be finished and painted for between $800 and $1,200. At the lower end of that range, the materials and labor would be more basic, with a cheap wash for color; however, the higher amount would provide quality work and a durable coat of mineral paint both inside and out.
As a tenant house on a farm of three, four, or even five hundred acres, where all who live in it are laborers in the field or household, this design may be most conveniently adopted. The family inhabiting it in winter may be well accommodated for sleeping under the main roof, while they can at all seasons take their meals, and be made comfortable in the several rooms. In the summer season, when a larger number of laborers are employed, the lofts of the carriage or wagon-house and work-shop may be occupied with beds, and thus a large share of the expense of house building for a very considerable farm be saved. Luxury is a quality more or less consulted by every one who 82 builds for his own occupation on a farm, or elsewhere; and the tendency in building is constantly to expand, to give a higher finish, and in fact, to over-build. Indeed, if we were to draw the balance, on our old farms, between scantily-accommodated houses, and houses with needless room in them, the latter would preponderate. Not that these latter houses either are too good, or too convenient for the purpose for which they were built, but they have too much room, and that room badly appropriated and arranged.
As a tenant house on a farm spanning three, four, or even five hundred acres, where everyone living there works in the fields or the household, this layout can be most easily implemented. The family living there in winter can comfortably sleep under the main roof, while they can eat meals and relax in various rooms year-round. In the summer, when more laborers are hired, the upper levels of the barn or workshop can be used for sleeping, helping to significantly reduce housing costs for a sizable farm. Luxury is something everyone considers when building for their own use on a farm or elsewhere, and there’s a consistent trend towards expanding, adding more features, and essentially overbuilding. In fact, if we were to assess our old farms, comparing those with limited accommodations to those with excessive space, the latter would clearly dominate. Not that these larger homes are inherently too nice or too functional for their intended purpose, but they simply have too much space, and that space is poorly utilized and organized.
On a farm proper, the whole establishment is a workshop. The shop out of doors, we acknowledge, is not always dry, nor always warm; but it is exceedingly well aired and lighted, and a place where industrious people dearly love to labor. Within doors it is a work-shop too. There is always labor and occupation for the family, in the general business of the farm; therefore but little room is wanted for either luxury or leisure, and the farm house should be fully occupied, with the exception, perhaps, of a single room on the main floor, (and that not a large one,) for some regular business purpose. All these accommodated, and the requirements of the house are ended. Owners of rented farms should reflect, too, that expensive houses on their estates entail expensive repairs, and that continually. Many tenants are careless of highly-finished houses. Not early accustomed to them, they misappropriate, perhaps, the best rooms in the house, and pay little attention to the purposes for which the owner designed them, or to the manner of using them. It is therefore a total waste of money to build a house on a tenant 83 estate anything beyond the mere comfortable wants of the family occupying it, and to furnish the room necessary for the accommodation of the crops, stock, and farm furniture, in the barns and other out-buildings—all in a cheap, tidy, yet substantial way.
On a proper farm, the entire setup is a workshop. The outdoor area, we admit, isn’t always dry or warm, but it’s very well aired and lit, making it a place where hardworking people love to work. Inside, it’s also a workshop. There’s always work and tasks for the family in the general business of the farm; therefore, there isn’t much need for luxury or leisure, and the farmhouse should be fully utilized, except maybe for one small room on the main floor for some regular business purpose. Once all these needs are met, the house's requirements are fulfilled. Owners of rented farms should also keep in mind that expensive houses on their properties require costly repairs continuously. Many tenants don’t take good care of high-end houses. Not used to them, they might misallocate the best rooms and ignore the purposes the owner intended or how to use them properly. So, it’s a waste of money to build anything more than what a family living there needs, and to furnish the necessary space for crops, livestock, and farm equipment in the barns and other outbuildings— all in an inexpensive, neat, and sturdy way.
So, too, with the grounds for domestic purposes around the house. A kitchen garden, sufficient to grow the family vegetables—a few plain fruits—a posey bed or two for the girls—and the story is told. Give a larger space for these things—anything indeed, for elegance—and ten to one, the plow is introduced, a corn or potato patch is set out, field culture is adopted, and your choice grounds are torn up, defaced, and sacrificed to the commonest uses.
So, the same goes for the yard around the house. A kitchen garden that’s big enough to grow vegetables for the family—a few simple fruits—a flower bed or two for the girls—and that’s about it. If you give a larger space for these things—really, anything for style—and chances are, a plow will be brought in, a corn or potato patch will be planted, field farming will be started, and your nice yard will be dug up, ruined, and sacrificed for the most basic uses.
Notwithstanding these drawbacks, a cheerful, home-expression may be given, and should be given to the homestead, in the character and construction of the buildings, be they ever so rough and homely. We can call to mind many instances of primitive houses-log cabins even—built when none better could be had, that presented a most comfortable and life-enjoying picture—residences once, indeed, of those who swayed "the applause of listening senates," but under the hands of taste, and a trifle of labor, made to look comfortable, happy, and sufficient. We confess, therefore, to a profound veneration, if not affection, for the humble farm house, as truly American in character; and which, with a moderate display of skill, may be made equal to the main purposes of life and enjoyment for all such as do not aspire to a high display, and who are content to make the most of moderate means.
Despite these drawbacks, a cheerful expression of home can and should be given to the homestead through the design and construction of the buildings, no matter how rough and simple they may be. We can recall many examples of primitive houses—like log cabins—built when nothing better was available, that presented a very comfortable and enjoyable living environment. These residences were once the homes of those who garnered "the applause of listening senates," but with a little taste and effort, they can be made to look cozy, happy, and sufficient. Therefore, we admit to a deep respect, if not affection, for the humble farmhouse, which is truly American in character; and it can be made to serve the main purposes of life and enjoyment for those who do not seek extravagant displays and who are content to make the most of moderate means.
FARM HOUSE Pages 85-86
FARMHOUSE Pages 85-86
Design II.
This is the plan of a house and out-buildings based chiefly on one which we built of wood some years since on a farm of our own, and which, in its occupation, has proved to be one of exceeding convenience to the purposes intended. As a farm business house, we have not known it excelled; nor in the ease and facility of doing up the house-work within it, do we know a better. It has a subdued, quiet, unpretending look; yet will accommodate a family of a dozen workmen, besides the females engaged in the household work, with perfect convenience; or if occupied by a farmer with but his own family around him, ample room is afforded them for a most comfortable mode of life, and sufficient for the requirements of a farm of two, to three or four hundred acres.
This is the layout of a house and outbuildings mainly based on one we built out of wood a few years ago on our own farm, which has turned out to be extremely convenient for its intended use. As a farm business house, we haven't found anything better; and when it comes to handling the housework inside, we know of no superior option. It has a simple, understated look, yet can comfortably accommodate a family of a dozen workers, plus the women involved in household chores. If it's occupied by a farmer with just his own family, there's plenty of space for a very comfortable lifestyle, and it's sufficient for the needs of a farm of two to four hundred acres.
This house is, in the main body, 36×22 feet, one and a half stories high, with a projection on the rear 34×16 feet, for the kitchen and its offices; and a still further addition to that, of 26×18 feet, for wash-room. The main body of the house is 14 feet high to the plates; the lower rooms are 9 feet high; the roof has a pitch of 35° from a horizontal line, giving partially-upright chambers in the main building, and roof lodging rooms in the rear. The rear, or kitchen part, 87 is one story high, with 10 feet posts, and such pitch of roof (which last runs at right angles to the main body, and laps on to the main roof,) as will carry the peak up to the same air line. This addition should retreat 6 inches from the line of the main building, on the side given in the design, and 18 inches on the rear. The rooms on this kitchen floor are 8 feet high, leaving one foot above the upper floor, under the roof, as a chamber garret, or lumber-room, as may be required. Beyond this, in the rear, is the other extension spoken of, with posts 9 feet high, for a buttery, closet, or dairy, or all three combined, and a wash-room; the floor of which is on a level with the last, and the roof running in the same direction, and of the same pitch. In front of this wash-room, where not covered by the wood-house, is an open porch, 8 feet wide and 10 feet long, the roof of which runs out at a less angle than the others—say 30° from a horizontal line. Attached to this is the wood-house, running off by way of L, at right angles, 36×16 feet, of same height as the wash-room.
This house is mainly 36×22 feet, one and a half stories high, with a rear extension of 34×16 feet for the kitchen and its facilities, plus an additional area of 26×18 feet for the washroom. The main part of the house stands 14 feet high at the eaves; the lower rooms are 9 feet high; the roof has a 35° pitch from a horizontal line, creating mostly upright rooms in the main building and attic rooms in the back. The back part, or kitchen area, is one story high with 10-foot ceilings, and the roof design (which runs perpendicular to the main building and overlaps with the main roof) extends the peak to the same height. This addition should set back 6 inches from the edge of the main building on the side shown in the design and 18 inches in the back. The rooms on the kitchen level are 8 feet high, leaving a one-foot space above the top floor, under the roof, which can be used as a small attic or storage room, as needed. Behind this is the other extension mentioned, with 9-foot-high posts for a pantry, closet, or dairy, or a combination of all three, along with a washroom; the floor here is level with the previous area, and the roof follows the same direction and pitch. In front of this washroom, where it isn't covered by the wood shed, is an open porch that is 8 feet wide and 10 feet long, with a roof that slopes at a shallower angle than the others—about 30° from a horizontal line. Attached to this is the wood shed, extending off at an L-shape, at right angles, measuring 36×16 feet, with the same height as the washroom.
Adjoining the wood-house, on the same front line, is a building 50×20 feet, with 12 feet posts, occupied as a workshop, wagon-house, stable, and store-room, with a lean-to on the last of 15×10 feet, for a piggery. The several rooms in this building are 8 feet high, affording a good lumber room over the workshop, and hay storage over the wagon-house and stable. Over the wagon-house is a gable, with a blind window swinging on hinges, for receiving hay, thus relieving the long, uniform line of roof, and affording ample 88 accommodation on each side to a pigeon-house or dovecote, if required.
Next to the wood-house, on the same front line, is a building that's 50×20 feet, with 12-foot ceilings. It serves as a workshop, wagon house, stable, and storage room, with a 15×10 foot lean-to attached for a pig pen. The various rooms in this building are 8 feet high, providing a decent lumber storage area above the workshop and hay storage above the wagon house and stable. Above the wagon house is a gable with a blind window that swings on hinges for loading hay, breaking up the long, flat line of the roof and providing plenty of space on each side for a pigeon house or dovecote, if needed. 88
The style of this establishment is of plain Italian, or bracketed, and may be equally applied to stone, brick, or wood. The roofs are broad, and protect the walls by their full projection over them, 2½ feet. The small gable in the front roof of the main dwelling relieves it of its otherwise straight uniformity, and affords a high door-window opening on to the deck of the veranda, which latter should be 8 or 10 feet in width. The shallow windows, also, over the wings of the veranda give it a more cheerful expression. The lower end windows of this part of the house are hooded, or sheltered by a cheap roof, which gives them a snug and most comfortable appearance. The veranda may appear more ornamental than the plain character of the house requires; but any superfluous work upon it may be omitted, and the style of finish conformed to the other. The veranda roof is flatter than that of the house, but it may be made perfectly tight by closer shingling, and paint; while the deck or platform in the centre may be roofed with zinc, or tin, and a coat of sanded paint laid upon it. The front chimney is plain, yet in keeping with the general style of the house, and may be made of ordinary bricks. The two parts of the chimney, as they appear in the front rooms, are drawn together as they pass through the chamber above, and become one at the roof. The kitchen chimneys pass up through the peaks of their respective roofs, and should be in like character with the other.
The style of this place is basic Italian, or bracketed, and it can be applied to stone, brick, or wood. The roofs are wide and protect the walls by extending over them by 2½ feet. The small gable at the front of the main building breaks up the otherwise straight uniformity and provides a high door-window that opens onto the deck of the veranda, which should be 8 to 10 feet wide. The shallow windows over the wings of the veranda also add a more cheerful look. The lower end windows in this part of the house have hoods or are sheltered by a simple roof, giving them a cozy and very comfortable feel. The veranda may seem more decorative than the simple style of the house needs, but any unnecessary details can be left out, and the finishing style can match the rest of the house. The veranda roof is flatter than the house's roof, but it can be made completely watertight with tighter shingles and paint; the central deck or platform can be covered with zinc or tin and have a coat of sanded paint applied to it. The front chimney is simple but matches the overall style of the house and can be made of regular bricks. The two parts of the chimney that show in the front rooms are joined together as they go through the room above and become one at the roof. The kitchen chimneys rise through the peaks of their respective roofs and should match the other chimneys.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
The front door of this house opens into a small entry or hall, 9×6 feet, which is lighted by a low sash of glass over the front door. A door leads into a room on each side; and at the inner end of the hall is a recess between the two chimneys of the opposite rooms, in which may be placed a table or broad shelf to receive hats and coats. On the left is a parlor 22×15 feet, lighted on one side by a double window, and in front by a single plain one. The fireplace is centrally placed on one side of the room, in the middle of the house. On one side of the fireplace is a closet, three feet deep, with shelves, and another closet at the inner end of the room, near the kitchen door; or this closet may be dispensed with for the use of this parlor, and given up to enlarge the closet which is attached to the bedroom. Another door opens directly into the kitchen. This parlor is 9 feet high between joints. The sitting-room is opposite to the parlor, 19×15 feet, and lighted and closeted in nearly the same manner, as will be seen by referring to the floor plan.
The front door of this house leads into a small entryway or hall, measuring 9×6 feet, which is illuminated by a low glass sash above the front door. A door opens into a room on each side, and at the back end of the hall, there is a recess between the two chimneys of the opposite rooms where a table or wide shelf can hold hats and coats. On the left is a parlor measuring 22×15 feet, lit on one side by a double window and on the front by a single plain window. The fireplace is centrally located on one side of the room, in the middle of the house. On one side of the fireplace, there is a closet that’s three feet deep with shelves, and another closet at the back end of the room, near the kitchen door; or this closet could be removed from the parlor to expand the closet connected to the bedroom. Another door opens directly into the kitchen. This parlor has a ceiling height of 9 feet. The sitting room is across from the parlor, measuring 19×15 feet, and is similarly lit and has closets, as can be seen by looking at the floor plan.
The kitchen is the grand room of this house. It is 24×16 feet in area, having an ample fireplace, with its hooks and trammels, and a spacious oven by its side. It is lighted by a double window at one end, and a single window near the fireplace. At one end of this kitchen is a most comfortable and commodious family bedroom, 13×10 feet, with a large closet in one corner, and lighted by a window in the side. Two 91 windows may be inserted if wanted. A passage leads by the side of the oven to a sink-room, or recess, behind the chimney, with shelves to dry dishes on, and lighted by the half of a double window, which accommodates with its other half the dairy, or closet adjoining. A door also opens from this recess into the closet and dairy, furnished with broad shelves, that part of which, next the kitchen, is used for dishes, cold meat and bread cupboards, &c.; while the part of it adjoining the window beyond, is used for milk. This room is 14×6 feet, besides the L running up next to the kitchen, of 6×4 feet. From the kitchen also opens a closet into the front part of the house for any purpose needed. This adjoins the parlor, and sitting-room, closets. In the passage to the sitting-room also opens the stairway leading to the chambers, and beneath, at the other end of it, next the outside wall, is a flight leading down cellar. The cellar is excavated under the whole house, being 36×22, and 34×16 feet, with glass windows, one light deep by four wide, of 8×10 glass; and an outer door, and flight of steps outside, under either the sitting-room or kitchen windows, as may be most convenient. A door opens, also, from the kitchen, into a passage 4 feet wide and 12 feet long leading to the wash-room, 18×16 feet, and by an outside door, through this passage to the porch. In this passage may be a small window to give it light.
The kitchen is the main room of this house. It measures 24×16 feet, featuring a large fireplace with hooks and trammels, as well as a spacious oven beside it. There's plenty of light from a double window at one end and a single window near the fireplace. At one end of the kitchen is a very comfortable and roomy family bedroom, which is 13×10 feet, with a large closet in one corner and light coming from a side window. If needed, two additional windows can be added. A passage runs alongside the oven to a sink area located behind the chimney, equipped with shelves for drying dishes, and lit by half of a double window that also serves the adjoining dairy or closet. A door opens from this area into the closet and dairy, which has wide shelves. The section closest to the kitchen is used for dishes, cold meats, and bread storage, while the portion next to the window is designated for milk. This room is 14×6 feet, plus an L-shaped extension next to the kitchen measuring 6×4 feet. The kitchen also connects to a closet that leads to the front part of the house for any necessary purpose. This area is next to the parlor and sitting-room closets. From the passage to the sitting room, there is a stairway leading to the bedrooms, and at the other end next to the outer wall, a flight of steps leads down to the cellar. The cellar is excavated under the entire house, with dimensions of 36×22 and 34×16 feet, featuring glass windows that are one light deep and four wide, with 8×10 glass; it also has an outer door and a flight of steps leading outside, conveniently placed under either the sitting-room or kitchen windows. A door from the kitchen opens into a passage that is 4 feet wide and 12 feet long, leading to the washroom, which is 18×16 feet, and an outside door through this passage opens onto the porch. There could also be a small window in this passage to let in some light.
In the wash-room are two windows. A chimney at the far end accommodates a boiler or two, and a fireplace, if required. A sink stands adjoining the chimney. A flight of stairs, leading to a garret over head on one side, 92 and to the kitchen chamber on the other, stands next the dairy, into which last a door also leads. In this wash-room may be located the cooking stove in warm weather, leaving the main kitchen for a family and eating room. A door also leads from the wash-room into the wood-house.
In the laundry room, there are two windows. A chimney at the far end holds one or two boilers, and a fireplace, if needed. A sink is next to the chimney. On one side, a staircase leads to an attic above, and on the other side, it leads to the kitchen area, right next to the dairy, which also has a door leading into it. In this laundry room, the cooking stove can be set up during warm weather, leaving the main kitchen for family gatherings and dining. There's also a door from the laundry room that goes into the wood shed. 92
The wood-house stands lower than the floor of the wash-room, from which it falls, by steps. This is large, because a plentiful store of wood is needed for a dwelling of this character. If the room be not all wanted for such purpose, a part of it may devoted to other necessary uses, there seldom being too much shelter of this kind on a farm; through the rear wall of this wood-house leads a door into the garden, or clothes-yard, as the case may be; and at its extreme angle is a water closet, 6×4 feet, by way of lean-to, with a hipped roof, 8 feet high, running off from both the wood-house and workshop. This water-closet is lighted by a sliding sash window.
The wood-house is lower than the washroom floor, connected by steps. It’s spacious because you need a good amount of wood for a place like this. If the whole room isn’t needed for that, part of it can be used for other essential purposes, as there’s rarely too much shelter like this on a farm. A door at the back of the wood-house leads into the garden or laundry area, depending on the situation. In the far corner, there’s a water closet, measuring 6×4 feet, designed as a lean-to with a hipped roof that reaches 8 feet high, sloping away from both the wood-house and the workshop. This water closet has a sliding sash window for light.
On to the wood-house, in a continuous front line, joins the workshop, an indispensable appendage to farm convenience. This has a flight of stairs leading to the lumber-room above. For the furnishing of this apartment, see description of Design I. Next to the work-house is the wagon and tool-house, above which is the hay loft, also spread over the stable adjoining; in which last are stalls for a pair of horses, which may be required for uses other than the main labors of the farm—to run to market, carry the family to church, or elsewhere. A pair of horses for such purposes should always be kept near the house. The horse-stalls 93 occupy a space of 10×12 feet, with racks and feeding boxes. The plans of these will be described hereafter. The door leading out from these stalls is 5 feet wide, and faces the partition, so that each horse may be led out or in at an easy angle from them. Beyond the stalls is a passage 4 feet wide, leading to a store-room or area, from which a flight of rough stairs leads to the hay loft above. Beyond this room, in which is the oat bin for the horses, is a small piggery, for the convenience of a pig or two, which are always required to consume the daily wash and offal of the house; and not for the general pork stock of the farm; which, on one of this size, may be expected to require more commodious quarters.
Connected to the wood-house, there’s the workshop, an essential part of farm life. This has a staircase leading up to the lumber-room above. For details on furnishing this space, see the description in Design I. Next to the workshop is the wagon and tool shed, with a hay loft above it, which also extends over the adjacent stable. The stable has stalls for two horses, which may be needed for tasks beyond regular farm work—like going to market, taking the family to church, or other outings. It’s a good idea to keep a pair of horses close to the house for these purposes. The horse stalls measure 10×12 feet and include racks and feeding boxes. The plans for these will be detailed later. The door from these stalls is 5 feet wide and faces the partition, allowing easy entry and exit for the horses. Beyond the stalls is a 4-foot-wide passage that leads to a storage room, from which a set of rough stairs leads up to the hay loft. Beyond this storage room, where the oat bin for the horses is located, there’s a small pigpen for a couple of pigs that help consume the daily scraps and leftovers from the house—not for the main pork supply of the farm, which, on a farm this size, would need more spacious accommodations.
The chamber plan of this house is commodious, furnishing one large room and three smaller ones. The small chamber leading to the deck over the porch, may, or may not be occupied as a sleeping room. The small one near the stairs may contain a single bed, or be occupied as a large clothes-closet. Through this, a door leads into the kitchen chamber, which may serve as one, or more laborers' bed-chambers. They may be lighted by one or more windows in the rear gable.
The layout of this house is spacious, featuring one large room and three smaller ones. The small room that leads to the deck over the porch may or may not be used as a bedroom. The small room near the stairs could fit a single bed or be used as a large closet. Through this room, a door leads into the kitchen area, which can serve as one or more workers' bedrooms. They may have light coming in from one or more windows in the back gable.
If more convenient to the family, the parlor and sitting-room, already described, may change their occupation, and one substituted for the other.
If it's easier for the family, the parlor and sitting room, as already mentioned, can swap their uses, with one replacing the other.
The main business approach to this house should be by a lane, or farm road opening on the side next the stable and wagon-house. The yard, in front of these last named buildings, should be separated from the lawn, or front door-yard of the dwelling. The establishment 94 should stand some distance back from the traveled highway, and be decorated with such trees, shrubbery, and cultivation, as the taste of the owner may direct. No general rules or directions can be applicable to this design beyond what have already been given; and the subject must be treated as circumstances may suggest. The unfrequented side of the house should, however, be flanked with a garden, either ornamental, or fruit and vegetable; as buildings of this character ought to command a corresponding share of attention with the grounds by which they are surrounded.
The main access to this house should be via a lane or farm road that opens up on the side next to the stable and wagon shed. The yard in front of these buildings should be separated from the lawn or front yard of the house. The property should be set back a bit from the busy road and landscaped with trees, shrubs, and plants according to the owner's preference. There aren’t any general rules or guidelines that apply to this design beyond what has already been mentioned; the approach should be adapted to the specific circumstances. However, the less-frequented side of the house should be complemented by a garden, whether decorative or for fruits and vegetables, since buildings like this should have an equally attractive exterior that draws attention. 94
This house will appear equally well built of wood, brick, or stone. Its cost, according to materials, or finish, may be $1,000 or $1,500. The out-buildings attached, will add $400 to $600, with the same conditions as to finish; but the whole may be substantially and well built of either stone, brick, or wood, where each may be had at equal convenience, for $2,000 in the interior of New York. Of course, it is intended to do all the work plain, and in character for the occupation to which it is intended.
This house will look just as good whether it’s made of wood, brick, or stone. Its price, depending on the materials and finishing, could be between $1,000 and $1,500. The additional buildings will cost between $400 and $600, under the same finishing conditions; however, the entire project can be solidly constructed from stone, brick, or wood, whichever is more convenient, for $2,000 inside New York. Naturally, the plan is to keep all the work simple and suitable for the intended use.
MISCELLANEOUS DETAILS.
At this point of our remarks a word or two may be offered on the general subject of inside finish to farm houses, which may be applicable more or less to any one, or all of the designs that may come under our observation; therefore what is here said, may be applied at large. Different sections of the United States have their own several local notions, or preferences as to the mode of finish to their houses and out-buildings, according to climate, education, or other circumstances. In all these matters neither taste, fashion, nor climate should be arbitrary. The manner of finish may be various, without any departure from truth or propriety—always keeping in mind the object for which it is intended. The material for a country house should be strong, and durable, and the work simple in its details, beyond that for either town or suburban houses. It should be strong, for the reason that the interior of the farm house is used for purposes of industry, in finishing up and perfecting the labors of the farm; labors indispensable too, and in amount beyond the ordinary housekeeping requirements of a family who have little to do but merely to live, and make themselves comfortable. The material should be durable, because the distance at which the farm house is usually located from the 96 residences of building mechanics, renders it particularly troublesome and expensive to make repairs, and alterations. The work should be simple, because cheaper in the first place, in construction, and finish; quite as appropriate and satisfactory in appearance; and demanding infinitely less labor and pains to care for, and protect it afterward. Therefore all mouldings, architraves, chisel-work, and gewgawgery in interior finish should be let alone in the living and daily occupied rooms of the house. If, to a single parlor, or spare bedchamber a little ornamental work be permitted, let even that be in moderation, and just enough to teach the active mistress and her daughters what a world of scrubbing and elbow work they have saved themselves in the enjoyment of a plainly-finished house, instead of one full of gingerbread work and finery. None but the initiated can tell the affliction that chiseled finishing entails on housekeepers in the spider, fly, and other insect lodgment which it invites—frequently the cause of more annoyance and daily disquietude in housekeeping, because unnecessary, than real griefs from which we may not expect to escape. Bases, casings, sashes, doors—all should be plain, and painted or stained a quiet russet color—a color natural to the woods used for the finish, if it can be, showing, in their wear, as little of dust, soiling, and fly dirt as possible. There is no poetry about common housekeeping. Cooking, house-cleaning, washing, scrubbing, sweeping, are altogether matter-of-fact duties, and usually considered work, not recreation; and these should all be made easy of performance, and as seldom to be done as 97 possible; although the first item always was, and always will be, and the last item should be, an every-day vocation for somebody; and the manner of inside finish to a house has a great deal to do with all these labors.
At this point in our discussion, we might say a few words about the general topic of interior finishes for farmhouses, which could apply to any or all of the designs we'll be looking at; therefore, what we say here can be broadly applied. Different regions of the United States have their own local preferences regarding how to finish their houses and outbuildings, influenced by climate, education, or other factors. In all these matters, taste, style, and climate shouldn't be arbitrary. The way a house is finished can vary without straying from accuracy or appropriateness—always keeping in mind the purpose it’s meant for. The materials for a country house should be strong and durable, with straightforward details, especially compared to town or suburban houses. It should be strong because the interior of the farmhouse is used for productive purposes, finishing and perfecting the work of the farm; work that's essential and typically beyond what’s needed for a family that simply lives and seeks comfort. The material should be durable, as the distance from the farmhouse to the residences of construction workers makes repairs and alterations particularly troublesome and expensive. The work should be simple, as it’s cheaper initially in terms of construction and finishing, just as suitable and pleasing in appearance, and requires much less effort to maintain and protect afterwards. Therefore, all moldings, trim, detailed carvings, and frills in the interior finish should be avoided in the main living areas of the house. If some decorative elements are allowed in a single parlor or guest bedroom, that should be done in moderation, just enough to show the hardworking housewife and her daughters how much scrubbing and effort they've saved by keeping a plain-finished house, rather than one full of unnecessary embellishments. Only those with experience can understand the trouble that detailed finishes can cause for housekeepers due to the spider webs, flies, and other insects they attract—often causing more annoyance and daily stress in housekeeping than real issues we can’t escape. Bases, casings, sashes, and doors should all be simple and painted or stained a subtle russet color—a color that feels natural to the wood used for the finish, revealing as little dust, dirt, and fly residue as possible with wear. There’s no poetry in everyday housekeeping. Cooking, cleaning, washing, scrubbing, and sweeping are purely practical duties and are generally seen as work, not leisure; and these tasks should all be as easy to perform as possible, and done as infrequently as we can manage; although cooking will always be, and should be, a daily task for somebody. The way a house is finished inside greatly impacts all these chores.
In a stone, or brick house, the inside walls should be firred off for plastering. This may be done either by "plugging," that is, driving a plug of wood strongly into the mortar courses, into which the firring should be nailed, or by laying a strip of thin board in the mortar course, the entire length of each wall. This is better than blocks laid in for such purpose, because it is effectually bound by the stone, or brick work; whereas, a block may get loose by shrinking, but the nails which hold the firring to the plug, or to the thin strip of board will split and wedge it closer to the mason work of the outside wall. This is an important item. It makes close work too, and leaves no room for rats, mice, or other vermin; and as it admits a space—no matter how thin—so that no outside damp from the walls can communicate into, or through the inner plastering, it answers all purposes. The inside, and partition walls should be of coarse, strong mortar, floated off as smoothly as may be, not a hard finish, which is fine, and costly; and then papered throughout for the better rooms, and the commonly-used rooms whitewashed. Paper gives a most comfortable look to the rooms, more so than paint, and much less expensive, while nothing is so sweet, tidy, and cheerful to the working rooms of the house as a lime wash, either white, or softened down with some agreeable tint, such as light blue, green, drab, fawn, or russet, to give the shade desired, and for which 98 every professional painter and whitewasher in the vicinity, can furnish a proper recipe applicable to the place and climate. On such subjects we choose to prescribe, rather than to play the apothecary by giving any of the thousand and one recipes extant, for the composition.
In a stone or brick house, the interior walls should be prepared for plastering. This can be done by "plugging," which means driving a wooden plug firmly into the mortar joints, to which the firring can be nailed, or by placing a strip of thin board in the mortar joint along the entire length of each wall. This method is better than using blocks for this purpose because it is securely connected to the stone or brickwork; a block can become loose due to shrinking, but the nails that hold the firring to the plug or the thin strip of board will split and wedge it tighter against the masonry of the outer wall. This is an important detail. It also ensures a tight fit, leaving no space for rats, mice, or other pests; and since it creates a gap—no matter how small—no outside moisture from the walls can penetrate the inner plastering, making it effective. The interior and partition walls should be made of coarse, strong mortar, smoothed out as much as possible, but not with a hard finish, which is fine and expensive; then papered in the better rooms, while the commonly-used rooms should be whitewashed. Wallpaper gives a much cozier appearance to the rooms, more so than paint, and is much less expensive. Nothing is as sweet, tidy, and cheerful for the work areas of the house as a lime wash, either white or softened with a pleasant tint, like light blue, green, drab, fawn, or russet, to achieve the desired shade, and any local professional painter and whitewasher can provide a suitable recipe for the place and climate. On such topics, we prefer to provide guidance rather than play the apothecary by offering any of the countless existing recipes for the mixture.
Our remarks upon the strength and durability of material in house-building do not apply exclusively to brick and stone. Wood is included also; and of this, there is much difference in the kind. Sound white oak, is, perhaps the best material for the heavy frame-work of any house or out-building, and when to be had at a moderate expense, we would recommend it in preference to any other. If white oak cannot be had, the other varieties of oak, or chesnut are the next best. In light frame-timbers, such as studs, girts, joists, or rafters, oak is inclined to spring and warp, and we would prefer hemlock, or chesnut, which holds a nail equally as well, or, in its absence, pine, (which holds a nail badly,) whitewood, or black walnut. The outside finish to a wooden house, may be lighter than in one of stone or brick. The wood work on the outside of the latter should always be heavy, and in character with the walls, giving an air of firmness and stability to the whole structure. No elaborate carving, or beadwork should be permitted on the outside work of a country house at all; and only a sufficient quantity of ornamental tracery of any kind, to break the monotony of a plainness that would otherwise give it a formal, or uncouth expression, and relieve it of what some would consider a pasteboard look. A farm house, in fact, of 99 any degree, either cheap or expensive, should wear the same appearance as a well-dressed person of either sex; so that a stranger, not looking at them for the purpose of inspecting their garb, should, after an interview, be unable to tell what particular sort of dress they wore, so perfectly in keeping was it with propriety.
Our comments on the strength and durability of material in house construction aren't just about brick and stone. Wood is also part of the conversation, and there’s a lot of variety within it. Solid white oak is probably the best option for the heavy framing of any house or outbuilding, and if it's available at a reasonable cost, we recommend it over any other material. If white oak isn't available, other types of oak or chestnut are the next best choices. For light frame timbers, such as studs, girders, joists, or rafters, oak tends to bend and warp, so we’d prefer hemlock or chestnut, which hold a nail just as well. In the absence of those, pine (which doesn’t hold a nail very well), whitewood, or black walnut can also be used. The exterior finish of a wooden house can be lighter than that of a stone or brick house. The woodwork on the exterior of the latter should always be substantial and match the walls, giving the entire structure a sense of strength and stability. There shouldn’t be any elaborate carving or beadwork on the outside of a country house; instead, only a minimal amount of decorative tracery is allowed to break up any monotony from simplicity that might make it look too formal or awkward and to prevent it from appearing flimsy. A farmhouse, whether inexpensive or expensive, should present a polished appearance, like a well-dressed person of any gender; so much so that a stranger, not observing them to critique their outfit, should be unable to tell what kind of clothing they wore after a conversation, as it should align perfectly with decorum..
In the design now under discussion, a cellar is made under the whole body of the house; and this cellar is a shallow one, so far as being sunk into the ground is concerned, say 5½ feet, leaving 2½ feet of cellar wall above ground—8 feet in all. A part of the wall above ground should be covered by the excavated earth, and sloped off to a level with the surrounding surface. A commodious, well-lighted, and well-ventilated cellar is one of the most important apartments of the farm house. It should, if the soil be compact, be well drained from some point or corner within the walls into a lower level outside, to which point within, the whole floor surface should incline, and the bottom be floored with water-lime cement. This will make it hard, durable, and dry. It may then be washed and scrubbed off as easily as an upper floor. If the building site be high, and in a gravelly, or sandy soil, neither drain nor flooring will be required. The cellar may be used for the storage of root crops, apples, meats, and household vegetables. A partitioned room will accommodate either a summer or a winter dairy, if not otherwise provided, and a multitude of conveniences may be made of it in all well arranged farmeries. But in all cases the cellar should be well lighted, ventilated, and dry. Even the ash-house and smoke-house may be made in it with perfect 100 convenience, by brick or stone partitions, and the smoke-house flue be carried up into one of the chimney flues above, and thus make a more snug and compact arrangement than to have separate buildings for those objects. A wash-room, in which, also, the soap may be made, the tallow and lard tried up, and other extraordinary labor when fire heat is to be used, may properly be made in a cellar, particularly when on a sloping ground, and easy of access to the ground level on one side. But, as a general rule, such room is better on a level with the main floor of the dwelling, and there are usually sufficient occupations for the cellar without them.
In the design being discussed, a cellar is built underneath the entire house. This cellar is relatively shallow, being about 5½ feet deep, which leaves 2½ feet of cellar wall above ground, totaling 8 feet. Part of the wall above ground should be covered with excavated soil, sloping down to match the surrounding surface. A spacious, well-lit, and well-ventilated cellar is one of the most important parts of a farmhouse. If the soil is dense, it should be drained from some point or corner within the walls to a lower level outside, and the entire floor should slope toward that point, with the bottom finished in water-lime cement. This will make it hard, durable, and dry, allowing it to be cleaned as easily as an upper floor. If the building site is high and has gravelly or sandy soil, no drain or flooring will be needed. The cellar can be used to store root vegetables, apples, meats, and household vegetables. A partitioned area can serve as either a summer or winter dairy if no other space is available, and many conveniences can be included in a well-planned farm setup. In any case, the cellar should be well-lit, ventilated, and dry. Even the ash-house and smoke-house can be conveniently located within it, using brick or stone partitions, and the smoke-house flue can run up through one of the existing chimney flues, creating a snugger and more compact arrangement than having separate buildings. A washroom, where soap can also be made, tallow and lard rendered, and other tasks requiring heat can be done, is suitable for a cellar, especially when on a slope and easily accessible from ground level on one side. However, as a general rule, such a room is better placed on the same level as the main floor of the house, since there are usually plenty of other uses for the cellar.
All cellar walls should be at least 18 inches thick, for even a wooden house, and from that to 2 feet for a stone or brick one, and well laid in strong lime-mortar. Unmortared cellar walls are frequently laid under wooden buildings, and pointed with lime-mortar inside; but this is sometimes dug out by rats, and is apt to crumble and fall out otherwise. A complete cellar wall should be thoroughly laid in mortar.
All cellar walls should be at least 18 inches thick for a wooden house, and between 18 inches to 2 feet for a stone or brick house, and should be properly laid with strong lime mortar. Unmortared cellar walls are often built under wooden structures, and are filled in with lime mortar on the inside; however, this can sometimes be dug out by rats and tends to crumble and fall out otherwise. A complete cellar wall should be fully laid in mortar.
FARM HOUSE Pages 101-102.
Farmhouse Pages 101-102.
Design III.
We here present the reader with a substantial, plain, yet highly-respectable stone or brick farm house, of the second class, suitable for an estate of three, to five hundred acres, and accommodation for a family of a dozen or more persons. The style is mixed rural Gothic, Italian, and bracketed; yet in keeping with the character of the farm, and the farmer's standing and occupation.
We present the reader with a solid, simple, yet quite respectable stone or brick farmhouse of the second class, suitable for an estate of three to five hundred acres, accommodating a family of twelve or more people. The style is a blend of rural Gothic, Italian, and bracketed influences; however, it aligns well with the character of the farm and the farmer's status and occupation.
The main body of this house is 42×24 feet on the ground, and one and three quarter stories high—the chambers running two or three feet into the roof, as choice or convenience may direct. The roof has a pitch of 30 to 40° from a horizontal line, and broadly spread over the walls, say two and a half feet, showing the ends of the rafters, bracket fashion. The chimneys pass out through the peak of the roof, where the hips of what would otherwise be the gables, connect with the long sides of the roof covering the front and rear. On the long front is partly seen, in the perspective, a portico, 16×10 feet—not the chief entrance front, but rather a side front, practically, which leads into a lawn or garden, as may be most desirable, and from which the best view from the house is commanded. Over this porch is a small gable running into the roof, to break its monotony, in which is a door-window leading from the upper hall on to the deck of the porch. This 104 gable has the same finish as the main roof, by brackets. The chamber windows are two-thirds or three-quarters the size of the lower ones; thus showing the upper story not full height below the plates, but running two to four feet into the garret. The rear wing, containing the entrance or business front, is 24×32 feet, one and a half stories high, with a pitch of roof not less than 35°, and spread over the walls both at the eaves and gable, in the same proportion as the roof to the main body. In front of this is a porch or veranda eight feet wide, with a low, hipped roof. In the front and rear roofs of this wing is a dormer window, to light the chambers. The gable to this wing is bold, and gives it character by the breadth of its roof over the walls, and the strong brackets by which it is supported. The chimney is thrown up strong and boldly at the point of the roof, indicating the every-day uses of the fireplaces below, which, although distinct and wide apart in their location on the ground floors, are drawn together in the chambers, thus showing only one escape through the roof.
The main part of this house is 42×24 feet on the ground and one and three-quarters stories high, with the rooms extending two to three feet into the roof, depending on choice or convenience. The roof has a pitch of 30 to 40° from a horizontal line and extends about two and a half feet over the walls, showcasing the ends of the rafters in a bracket style. The chimneys rise through the peak of the roof, where the hips connect with the long sides of the roof that cover the front and back. On the long front side, you can partly see a portico measuring 16×10 feet—not the primary entrance but rather a side entrance that leads into a lawn or garden, depending on what’s more desirable, and provides the best view from the house. Above this porch is a small gable that connects to the roof, adding some visual interest, featuring a door-window that leads from the upper hall onto the porch deck. This gable has the same finishing as the main roof, supported by brackets. The chamber windows are two-thirds or three-quarters the size of the lower ones, indicating that the upper story doesn’t reach full height below the plates but extends two to four feet into the attic. The rear wing, which contains the entrance or business front, measures 24×32 feet, is one and a half stories high, and has a roof pitch of no less than 35°, extending over the walls at both the eaves and gable in the same proportion as the main body's roof. In front of this wing is a porch or veranda eight feet wide, topped with a low, hipped roof. There’s a dormer window on the front and rear roofs of this wing to light up the rooms. The gable on this wing is bold, giving it character with a broad roof over the walls and strong brackets for support. The chimney rises prominently at the peak of the roof, indicating the everyday use of the fireplaces below, which, while distinct and spread apart on the ground floors, are connected in the chambers, resulting in only one chimney exit through the roof.
The wood-house in the rear of the wing has a roof of the same character, and connects with the long building in the rear, which has the same description of roof, but hipped at one end. That end over the workshop, and next the wood-house, shows a bold gable like the wing of the house, and affords room and light to the lumber room over the shop, and also gives variety and relief to the otherwise too great sameness of roof-appearance on the further side of the establishment.
The woodhouse at the back of the wing has a roof that's similar in style and connects to the long building behind it, which has the same type of roof but is hipped at one end. That end, above the workshop and next to the woodhouse, features a prominent gable like the house’s wing, providing space and light to the lumber room above the shop. It also adds some variety and breaks up the otherwise monotonous appearance of the roofs on the far side of the property.
Plans in original position
(note orientation of chamber floor plan)
Plans in original position
(note the layout of the room floor plan)
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
As has been remarked, the main entrance front to this house is from the wing veranda, from which a well finished and sizeable door leads into the principal hall, 24×8 feet in area, and lighted by a full-sized window at the front end. Opposite the entrance door is the door leading into the parlor; and farther along is the staircase, under the upper landing of which a door leads into a dining or sitting-room, as may be determined. This hall is 10 feet high, as are all the rooms of this lower main story. In the chimney, which adjoins the parlor side of this hall, may be inserted a thimble for a hall stovepipe, if this method of warming should be adopted. The parlor, into which a door leads from the hall, is 18×16 feet, with two windows on the side, shown in perspective, and one on the front facing the lawn, or garden. It has also a fireplace near the hall door. At the further angle is a door leading to an entry or passage on to the portico. E is the entry just mentioned, six feet square, and lighted by a short sash, one light deep, over the outside door. This portico may be made a pleasant summer afternoon and evening resort for the family, by which the occupied rooms connect with the lawn or garden, thus adding to its retired and private character.
As noted, the main entrance to this house is from the wing veranda, which opens into a well-crafted and spacious door leading into the main hall, measuring 24×8 feet and lit by a full-sized window at the front. Directly opposite the entrance door is the door to the parlor; further down is the staircase, with a door beneath the upper landing that leads to a dining or sitting room, depending on preference. This hall is 10 feet high, as are all the rooms on this lower level. The chimney, which is next to the parlor side of this hall, can accommodate a thimble for a hall stovepipe, if that heating method is chosen. The parlor, accessed via a door from the hall, is 18×16 feet, featuring two side windows, as shown in perspective, and one window on the front facing the lawn or garden. It also has a fireplace near the hall door. At the far corner is a door that leads to an entryway or passage to the portico. E is the entry mentioned earlier, which is six feet square and is illuminated by a short sash with one light above the outside door. This portico can become a pleasant spot for the family on summer afternoons and evenings, providing a connection from the occupied rooms to the lawn or garden, thus enhancing its secluded and private feel.
Opposite the parlor, on the other side of this entry, a door leads into a room 18×12 feet, which may be occupied as a family bedroom, library, or small sitting-room. This is lighted by two windows, and has a closet of 6×5 feet. A fireplace is on the inner side of 107 this room; and near to that, a door connects with a dining-room of the same size, having a window in one end, and a fireplace, and closet of the same size as the last. Through the rear wall is a door leading into a pantry, which also communicates with the kitchen; and another door leads to the hall, and from the hall, under the staircases, (which, at that point, are sufficiently high for the purpose,) is a passage leading to the kitchen.
Opposite the living room, on the other side of this entry, a door leads into a room measuring 18×12 feet, which can be used as a family bedroom, library, or small sitting room. This room is lit by two windows and has a closet measuring 6×5 feet. A fireplace is located on the inner side of 107 this room; and nearby, a door connects it to a dining room of the same size, which has a window at one end, along with a fireplace and closet of the same dimensions as the previous room. Through the back wall is a door leading into a pantry, which also connects to the kitchen; and another door leads to the hall. From the hall, under the staircases, (which at that point are high enough for this purpose), there is a passage leading to the kitchen.
Under the wing veranda, near the point of intersection of the wing with the main body of the house, is an every-day outer door, leading into a small entry, 6×5 feet, and lighted by a low, one-sash window over the door. By another door, this leads to the kitchen, or family room, which is lighted by three windows. An ample fireplace, with oven, &c., accommodates this room at the end. A closet, 7×5 feet, also stands next to the entry; and beyond that, an open passage, to the left, leading out under the front hall stairs to the rooms of the main building. A door also leads from that passage into a best pantry, for choice crockery, sweetmeats, and tea-table comforts. Another door, near the last, leads into a dairy or milk-room, 9×8 feet, beyond the passage; in which last, also, may be placed a tier of narrow shelves. This milk, or dairy-room, is lighted by a window in the end, and connects also, by a door in the side, with the outer kitchen, or wash-room. Next to this milk-room door, in the front kitchen, is another door leading down cellar; and through this door, passing by the upper, broad stair of the flight of cellar steps, is another door into the wash-room. At 108 the farther angle of the kitchen is still another door, opening into a passage four feet wide; and, in that passage, a door leading up a flight of stairs into the wing chambers. This passage opens into the back kitchen, or wash-room, 16×16 feet in area, and lighted by two windows, one of which looks into the wood-house. In this wash-room is a chimney with boilers and fireplace, as may be required. The cellar and chamber stairs, and the milk-room are also accessible direct, by doors leading from this wash-room.
Under the wing veranda, close to where the wing meets the main part of the house, is a regular outer door that opens into a small entry, 6×5 feet, which is lit by a low, single-sash window above the door. This entry connects to another door that leads to the kitchen or family room, which has three windows for light. At the end of this room, there's a large fireplace with an oven and other features. Next to the entry is a closet, 7×5 feet, and further along, there's an open passage on the left that runs under the front hall stairs to the rooms in the main building. A door from that passage also leads to a best pantry for fine crockery, sweets, and tea-time essentials. Another door, located near the last one, leads into a dairy or milk room, which is 9×8 feet and can have a tier of narrow shelves. This milk room is lit by a window at the end and also connects, via a side door, to the outer kitchen or washroom. Next to the door to the milk room in the front kitchen is another door that goes down to the cellar; passing through this door and along the broad upper stairs of the cellar steps, there's another door that leads into the washroom. At the far corner of the kitchen, there's yet another door that opens into a four-foot wide passage; this passage has a door that leads up a flight of stairs to the wing chambers. This passage also opens into the back kitchen or washroom, which is 16×16 feet and lit by two windows, one of which faces the wood-house. In this washroom, there’s a chimney with boilers and a fireplace as needed. The cellar and chamber stairs, along with the milk room, are also directly accessible through doors from this washroom.
The chamber plan will be readily understood, and requires no particular description. The space over the wing may be partitioned off according to the plan, or left more open for the accommodation of the "work folks," as occasion may demand. But, as this dwelling is intended for substantial people, "well to do in the world," and who extend a generous hospitality to their friends, a liberal provision of sleeping chambers is given to the main body of the house. The parlor chamber, which is the best, or spare one, is 18×16 feet, with roomy side-closets. Besides this, are other rooms for the daughters Sally, and Nancy, and Fanny, and possibly Mary and Elizabeth—who want their own chambers, which they keep so clean and tidy, with closets full of nice bedclothes, table linen, towels, &c., &c., for certain events not yet whispered of, but quite sure to come round. And then there are Frederick, and Robert, and George, fine stalwart boys coming into manhood, intending to be "somebody in the world," one day or another; they must have their rooms—and good ones too; for, if any people are to 109 be well lodged, why not those who toil for it? All such accommodation every farm house of this character should afford. And we need not go far, or look sharp, to see the best men and the best women in our state and nation graduating from the wholesome farm house thus tidily and amply provided. How delightfully look the far-off mountains, or the nearer plains, or prairies, from the lawn porch of this snug farm house! The distant lake; the shining river, singing away through the valley; or the wimpling brook, stealing through the meadow! Aye, enjoy them all, for they are God's best, richest gifts, and we are made to love them.
The layout of the rooms is easy to understand and doesn’t need much explanation. The space above the wing can be divided up as shown in the plan, or kept more open for the “work folks,” depending on what’s needed. However, since this home is meant for well-off people who are generous hosts to their friends, a good number of bedrooms are included in the main part of the house. The best bedroom, or the guest room, measures 18×16 feet and has spacious side closets. In addition, there are rooms for the daughters Sally, Nancy, Fanny, and possibly Mary and Elizabeth—who all want their own bedrooms that they keep very clean and tidy, with closets full of nice bedding, table linens, towels, etc., for special occasions that haven't been mentioned yet, but are sure to come. Then there are also Frederick, Robert, and George, strong young men approaching adulthood, aiming to be “somebody in the world” someday; they need their own rooms—and good ones too, because if anyone deserves to be well accommodated, it’s those who work for it. Every farmhouse of this type should provide such accommodations. We don’t have to look far or search hard to see the best men and women in our state and nation coming from well-kept farmhouses that are generously equipped. How beautiful the distant mountains, or the closer plains and prairies look from the porch of this cozy farmhouse! The far-off lake, the shining river flowing through the valley, or the gentle brook winding through the meadow! Yes, enjoy them all, as they are God’s greatest and most precious gifts, and we are meant to cherish them.
The wood-house strikes off from the back kitchen, retreating two feet from its gable wall, and is 36×14 feet in size. A bathing room may be partitioned off 8×6 feet, on the rear corner next the wash-room, if required, although not laid down in the plan. At the further end is the water-closet, 6×4 feet. Or, if the size and convenience of the family require it, a part of the wood-house may be partitioned off for a wash-room, from which a chimney may pass up through the peak of the roof. If so, carry it up so high that it will be above the eddy that the wind may make in passing over the adjoining wing, not causing it to smoke from that cause.
The wood shed extends from the back kitchen, set back two feet from its gable wall, and measures 36 by 14 feet. A bathroom can be sectioned off at 8 by 6 feet in the back corner next to the washroom, if needed, although it's not included in the plan. At the far end is the water closet, which is 6 by 4 feet. If the size and needs of the family require it, a portion of the wood shed can also be divided off for a washroom, with a chimney extending up through the peak of the roof. If that's the case, make sure it goes high enough to avoid any eddies the wind might create as it passes over the adjacent wing, so it doesn’t cause smoke issues.
At the far end of the wood-house is the workshop and tool-house, 18×16 feet, lighted by two windows, and a door to enter it from beneath the wood-house. Over this, is the lumber and store-room.
At the far end of the wood-house is the workshop and tool-house, 18×16 feet, lit by two windows, with a door for entry from underneath the wood-house. Above this is the lumber and storage room.
Next to this is the swill-room and pigsty for the 110 house pigs, as described in the last design; and over it a loft for farm seeds, small grains, and any other storage required.
Next to this is the area for waste and the pigpen for the house pigs, as mentioned in the last design; and above it is a storage loft for farm seeds, small grains, and any other necessary items.
Adjoining this is the wagon and carriage-house; and above, the hayloft, stretching, also, partly over the stable which stands next, with two stalls, 12×5 feet each, with a flight of stairs leading to the loft, in the passage next the door. In this loft are swinging windows, to let in hay for the horses.
Adjoining this is the wagon and carriage house, and above it is the hayloft, which also extends partly over the next stable. This stable has two stalls, each measuring 12×5 feet, along with a staircase leading up to the loft, located in the passage next to the door. In this loft are swinging windows that let in hay for the horses.
This completes the household establishment, and we leave the surroundings to the correct judgment and good taste of the proprietor to complete, as its position, and the variety of objects with which it may be connected, requires.
This completes the setup of the household, and we leave the surrounding details to the good judgment and taste of the owner to finish, as its location and the range of objects it might be linked with demand.
Stone and brick we have mentioned as the proper materials for this house; but it may be also built of wood, if more within the means and limits of the builder. There should be no pinching in its proportions, but every part carried out in its full breadth and effect.
Stone and brick have been suggested as the ideal materials for this house, but it can also be built with wood if that fits the budget and limitations of the builder. There shouldn't be any skimping on its proportions; every part should be executed in its full size and impact.
The cost of the whole establishment may be from $2,000, to $3,000; depending somewhat upon the material used, and the finish put upon it. The first-named sum would build the whole in an economical and plain manner, while the latter would complete it amply in its details.
The total cost for the entire setup can range from $2,000 to $3,000, depending on the materials chosen and the finish applied. The lower amount would create a simple and economical design, while the higher amount would allow for more detailed completion.
MISCELLANEOUS.
It may be an objection in the minds of some persons to the various plans here submitted, that we have connected the out-buildings immediately with the offices of the dwelling itself. We are well aware that such is not always usual; but many years observation have convinced us, that in their use and occupation, such connection is altogether the most convenient and economical. The only drawback is in the case of fire; which, if it occur in any one building, the whole establishment is liable to be consumed. This objection is conceded; but we take it, that it is the business of every one not able to be his own insurer, to have his buildings insured by others; and the additional cost of this insurance is not a tithe of what the extra expense of time, labor, and exposure is caused to the family by having the out-buildings disconnected, and at a fire-proof distance from each other. There has, too, in the separation of these out-buildings, (we do not now speak of barns, and houses for the stock, and the farmwork proper,) from the main dwelling, crept into the construction of such dwellings, by modern builders, some things, which in a country establishment, particularly, ought never to be there, such as privies, or water-closets, as they are more genteelly called. These last, in our estimation, have no business in a farmer's house. They are an effeminacy, only, and introduced by city life. An appendage they should be, but separated to some distance from the living rooms, and accessible by sheltered 112 passages to them. The wood-house should adjoin the outer kitchen, because the fuel should always be handy, and the outer kitchen, or wash-room is a sort of slop-room, of necessity; and the night wood, and that for the morning fires may be deposited in it for immediate use. The workshop, and small tool-house naturally comes next to that, as being chiefly used in stormy weather. Next to this last, would, more conveniently, come the carriage or wagon-house, and of course a stable for a horse or two for family use, always accessible at night, and convenient at unseasonable hours for farm labor. In the same close neighborhood, also, should be a small pigsty, to accommodate a pig or two, to eat up the kitchen slops from the table, refuse vegetables, parings, dishwater, &c., &c., which could not well be carried to the main piggery of the farm, unless the old-fashioned filthy mode of letting the hogs run in the road, and a trough set outside the door-yard fence, as seen in some parts of the country, were adopted. A pig can always be kept, and fatted in three or four months, from the wash of the house, with a little grain, in any well-regulated farmer's family. A few fowls may also be kept in a convenient hen-house, if desired, without offence—all constituting a part of the household economy of the place.
Some people might object to the various plans we've presented because we've connected the outbuildings directly to the main house. We recognize that this isn't always standard practice, but after many years of observation, we believe that this arrangement is by far the most convenient and cost-effective. The only downside is the risk of fire; if a fire breaks out in one building, it could potentially destroy the entire establishment. We acknowledge this concern, but we think it’s essential for anyone who can’t self-insure to get insurance for their buildings. The extra cost of insurance is minimal compared to the time, labor, and risk to the family caused by having the outbuildings disconnected and at a fire-proof distance from each other. Moreover, separating these outbuildings (not including barns, livestock houses, or actual farm work) from the main house has led to the inclusion of elements in modern constructions that simply don’t belong in a country setting, especially things like privies or what are more politely referred to as water-closets. We believe these have no place in a farmer's home. They are a sign of excess, typically brought in by city living. They should be an addition, but situated some distance from the living areas and accessible via sheltered paths. The wood shed should be next to the outer kitchen since fuel needs to be nearby, and the outer kitchen or washroom is essentially a utility area. Firewood for the night and the next morning can be stored there for easy access. The workshop and small tool shed naturally follow, as they are most used during inclement weather. Next to that, it makes sense to place the carriage or wagon house, along with a stable for one or two horses for family use, ensuring they are easily accessible at night and convenient for farm work during odd hours. Close by, there should also be a small pigsty for a pig or two to consume kitchen scraps, leftover vegetables, peels, dishwater, etc., which would be impractical to carry to the main piggery unless the old-fashioned and unsanitary practice of letting the pigs roam the roads and putting out a trough outside the yard fence was adopted, as seen in some areas. A pig can easily be raised and fattened in three to four months just from household waste and a bit of grain in any well-managed farmer's family. A few chickens can also be kept in a nearby henhouse if desired, all forming part of the household economy of the place.
These out-buildings too, give a comfortable, domestic look to the whole concern. Each one shelters and protects the other, and gives an air of comfort and repose to the whole—a family expression all round. What so naked and chilling to the feelings, as to see a country dwelling-house all perked up, by itself, 113 standing, literally, out of doors, without any dependencies about it? No, no. First should stand the house, the chief structure, in the foreground; appendant to that, the kitchen wing; next in grade, the wood-house; covering in, also, the minor offices of the house. Then by way of setting up, partially on their own account, should come the workshop, carriage-house, and stable, as practically having a separate character, but still subordinate to the house and its requirements; and these too, may have their piggery and hen-house, by way of tapering off to the adjoining fence, which encloses a kitchen garden, or family orchard. Thus, each structure is appropriate in its way—and together, they form a combination grateful to the sight, as a complete rural picture. All objections, on account of filth or vermin, to this connection, may be removed by a cleanly keeping of the premises—a removal of all offal immediately as it is made, and daily or weekly taking it on to the manure heaps of the barns, or depositing it at once on the grounds where it is required. In point of health, nothing is more congenial to sound physical condition than the occasional smell of a stable, or the breath of a cow, not within the immediate contiguity to the occupied rooms of the dwelling. On the score of neatness, therefore, as we have placed them, no bar can be raised to their adoption.
These outbuildings also give the whole place a cozy, homey vibe. Each one protects and supports the others, adding a sense of comfort and relaxation to the entire property—a family feel all around. What could be more stark and unsettling than to see a country house all by itself, standing alone in the open air without any surrounding structures? No way. First, the main house should be front and center; next comes the kitchen wing, followed by the wood shed, along with other minor buildings. Then, just slightly apart, there should be the workshop, carriage house, and stable, which have their own unique roles but still relate to the main house and its needs; and these can include a pig pen and chicken coop, tapering down towards the nearby fence that encloses a kitchen garden or family orchard. This way, each building fits in perfectly—and together, they create a pleasing rural scene. Any concerns about mess or pests in this arrangement can be addressed by keeping the place clean—removing waste as soon as it’s produced and taking it to the manure piles or using it right away in the garden. In terms of health, there’s nothing more beneficial for good physical well-being than the occasional smell of a stable or the scent of a cow, as long as they’re not too close to the main living areas of the house. So, in terms of tidy appearance, as we've arranged them, there's no reason not to adopt this layout.
FARM HOUSE. Pages 115-116.
Farmhouse. Pages 115-116.
Design IV.
This is perhaps a more ambitious house than either of the preceding, although it may be adapted to a domain of the same extent and value. It is plain and unpretending in appearance; yet, in its ample finish, and deeply drawn, sheltering eaves, broad veranda, and spacious out-buildings, may give accommodation to a larger family indulging a more liberal style of living than the last.
This might be a more ambitious house than either of the previous ones, although it can fit on a property of the same size and value. It looks simple and modest, but with its generous finishes, pronounced overhanging eaves, wide porch, and large outbuildings, it can accommodate a bigger family enjoying a more comfortable lifestyle than the last.
By an error in the engraving, the main roof of the house is made to appear like a double, or gambrel-roof, breaking at the intersection of the gable, or hanging roof over the ends. This is not so intended. The roofs on each side are a straight line of rafters. The Swiss, or hanging style of gable-roof is designed to give a more sheltered effect to the elevation than to run the end walls to a peak in the point of the roof.
By a mistake in the engraving, the main roof of the house looks like a double or gambrel roof, breaking at the intersection of the gable, or the overhanging roof at the ends. This wasn’t the intention. The roofs on each side consist of a straight line of rafters. The Swiss or hanging style of gable roof is meant to create a more sheltered look for the elevation rather than having the end walls peak at the top of the roof.
By a defect in the drawing, the roof of the veranda is not sufficiently thrown over the columns. This roof should project at least one foot beyond them, so as to perfectly shelter the mouldings beneath from the weather, and conform to the style of the main roof of the house.
By a flaw in the design, the roof of the veranda doesn't extend far enough over the columns. This roof should stick out at least a foot beyond them to adequately protect the moldings underneath from the elements and match the style of the main roof of the house.
The material of which it is built may be of either stone, brick, or wood, as the taste or convenience of the proprietor may suggest. The main building is 44×36 feet, on the ground. The cellar wall may show 117 18 to 24 inches above the ground, and be pierced by windows in each end, as shown in the plan. The height of the main walls may be two full stories below the roof plates, or the chambers may run a foot or two into the garret, at the choice of the builder, either of which arrangements may be permitted.
The building can be made of stone, brick, or wood, depending on the owner's preference or convenience. The main structure measures 44×36 feet on the ground. The cellar wall can rise 18 to 24 inches above the ground and should have windows at both ends, as shown in the plan. The height of the main walls can be two full stories below the roof plates, or the rooms can extend a foot or two into the attic, based on the builder's choice; both options are allowed.
The front door opens from a veranda 28 feet long by 10 feet in depth, dropping eight inches from the door-sill. This veranda has a hipped roof, which juts over the columns in due proportion with the roof of the house over its walls. These columns are plain, with brackets, or braces from near their tops, sustaining the plate and finish of the roof above, which may be covered either with tin or zinc, painted, or closely shingled.
The front door opens from a porch that is 28 feet long and 10 feet deep, dropping eight inches from the door sill. This porch has a hipped roof that extends over the columns in proportion to the house’s roof over its walls. The columns are simple, with brackets or braces near the top, supporting the plate and finish of the roof above, which can be covered with either tin or zinc, painted, or closely shingled.
The walls of the house may be 18 to 20 feet high below the plates; the roof a pitch of 30 to 45°, which will afford an upper garret, or store, or small sleeping rooms, if required; and the eaves should project two to three feet, as climate may demand, over the walls. A plain finish—that is, ceiled underneath—is shown in the design, but brackets on the ends of the rafters, beaded and finished, may be shown, if preferred. The gables are Swiss-roofed, or truncated, thus giving them a most sheltered and comfortable appearance, particularly in a northerly climate. The small gable in front relieves the roof of its monotony, and affords light to the central garret. The chimneys are carried out with partition flues, and may be topped with square caps, as necessity or taste may demand.
The walls of the house can be 18 to 20 feet high below the plates; the roof has a slope of 30 to 45°, which allows for an upper loft, storage, or small bedrooms if needed; and the eaves should extend two to three feet, depending on the climate, over the walls. A simple finish—meaning it's paneled underneath—is shown in the design, but decorative brackets at the ends of the rafters, detailed and finished, can be included if preferred. The gables are Swiss-roofed or truncated, giving them a very sheltered and cozy look, especially in colder climates. The small gable in front breaks up the roof's monotony and brings in light to the central loft. The chimneys are designed with partition flues and can be topped with square caps, depending on need or preference.
Retreating three feet from the kitchen side of the 118 house runs, at right angles, a wing 30×18 feet, one and a half stories high, with a veranda eight feet wide in front. Next in rear of this, continues a wood-house, 30×18 feet, one story high, with ten feet posts, and open in front, the ground level of which is 18 inches below the floor of the wing to which it is attached. The roof of these two is of like character with that of the main building.
Retreating three feet from the kitchen side of the 118 house is a wing that measures 30×18 feet, standing one and a half stories tall, with a veranda eight feet wide in front. Behind this is a wood-house that is also 30×18 feet, one story high, with ten-foot posts and open in front; its ground level is 18 inches below the floor of the wing it attaches to. The roofs of both structures are similar to that of the main building.
Adjoining this wood-house, and at right angles with it, is a building 68×18 feet, projecting two feet outside the line of wood-house and kitchen. This building is one and a half stories high, with 12 feet posts, and roof in the same style and of equal pitch as the others.
Adjoining this wood-house, and at right angles to it, is a building measuring 68×18 feet, extending two feet beyond the line of the wood-house and kitchen. This building is one and a half stories tall, with 12-foot posts, and has a roof that matches the style and pitch of the other structures.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
GROUND PLAN.
FLOOR PLAN.
The front door from the veranda of the house opens into a hall, 18×8 feet, and 11 feet high, amply lighted by sash windows on the sides, and over the door. From the rear of this hall runs a flight of easy stairs, into the upper or chamber hall. On one side of the lower hall, a door leads into a parlor, 18 feet square, and 11 feet high, lighted by three windows, and warmed by an open stove, or fireplace, the pipe passing into a chimney flue in the rear. A door passes from this parlor into a rear passage, or entry, thus giving it access to the kitchen and rear apartments. At the back end of the front hall, a door leads into the rear passage and kitchen; and on the side opposite the parlor, a door opens into the sitting or family room, 18×16 feet in 119 area, having an open fireplace, and three windows. On the hall side of this room, a door passes into the kitchen, 22×16 feet, and which may, in case the requirements of the family demand it, be made the chief family or living room, and the last one described converted into a library. In this kitchen, which is 120 lighted by two windows, is a liberal open fireplace, with an ample oven by its side, and a sink in the outer corner. A flight of stairs, also, leads to the rear chambers above; and a corresponding flight, under them, to the cellar below. A door at each end of these stairs, leads into the back entry of the house, and thus to the other interior rooms, or through the rear outer door to the back porch. This back entry is lighted by a single sash window over the outside door leading to the porch. Another door, opposite that leading down cellar, opens into the passage through the wing. From the rear hall, which is 16×5 feet, the innermost passage leads into a family bedroom, or nursery, 16×14 feet, lighted by a window in each outside wall, and warmed by an 121 open fireplace, or stove, at pleasure. Attached to this bedroom is a clothes-closet, 8×4 feet, with shelves, and drawers. Next the outer door, in rear end of the hall, is a small closet opening from it, 6×4 feet in dimensions, convertible to any use which the mistress of the house may direct.
The front door from the porch of the house opens into a hall that's 18×8 feet and 11 feet high, well-lit by sash windows on the sides and above the door. From the back of this hall, a set of easy stairs leads up to the upper or chamber hall. On one side of the lower hall, a door leads into a parlor that is 18 feet square and 11 feet high, illuminated by three windows and warmed by an open stove or fireplace, with the pipe going into a chimney flue at the back. A door from this parlor goes into a rear passage, providing access to the kitchen and back rooms. At the back end of the front hall, a door leads into the rear passage and kitchen; on the side opposite the parlor, a door opens into the living or family room, which measures 18×16 feet, featuring an open fireplace and three windows. On the hall side of this room, a door leads into the kitchen, which is 22×16 feet and can, if the family's needs require it, become the main family or living room, while the previously described room could be turned into a library. The kitchen, which has two windows, includes a spacious open fireplace with a generous oven beside it, and a sink in the outer corner. A flight of stairs also leads to the rear bedrooms above; another set of stairs underneath goes down to the cellar. A door at each end of these stairs leads into the back entry of the house, connecting to the other interior rooms or going through the back outer door to the back porch. This back entry is lit by a single sash window above the outside door leading to the porch. Another door, opposite the one leading to the cellar, opens into the passage through the wing. From the rear hall, which is 16×5 feet, the innermost passage leads into a family bedroom or nursery, which is 16×14 feet, lit by a window in each outside wall, and heated by an open fireplace or stove as desired. Attached to this bedroom is a clothes closet that measures 8×4 feet, with shelves and drawers. Next to the outer door, at the back end of the hall, is a small closet measuring 6×4 feet that can be used for any purpose the householder chooses.
CHAMBER PLAN.
ROOM LAYOUT.
Opening into the wing from the kitchen, first, is a large closet and pantry, supplied with a table, drawers, and shelves, in which are stored the dishes, table furniture, and edibles necessary to be kept at a moment's access. This room is 14×8 feet, and well lighted by a window of convenient size. If necessary, this room may have a partition, shutting off a part from the everyday uses which the family requires. In this room, so near to the kitchen, to the sink, to hot-water, and the other little domestic accessories which good housewives know so well how to arrange and appreciate, all the nice little table-comforts can be got up, and perfected, and stored away, under lock and key, in drawer, tub, or jar, at their discretion, and still their eyes not be away from their subordinates in the other departments. Next to this, and connected by a door, is the dairy, or milk-room, also 14×8 feet; which, if necessary, may be sunk three or four feet into the ground, for additional coolness in the summer season, and the floor reached by steps. In this are ample shelves for the milkpans, conveniences of churning, &c., &c. But, if the dairy be a prominent object of the farm, a separate establishment will be required, and the excavation may not be necessary for ordinary household uses. Out of this milk-room, a door leads 122 into a wash-room, 18×14 feet. A passage from the kitchen also leads into this. The wash-room is lighted by two windows in rear, and one in front. A sink is between the two rear windows, with conductor leading outside, and a closet beneath it, for the iron ware. In the chimney, at the end, are boilers, and a fireplace, an oven, or anything else required, and a door leading to a platform in the wood-house, and so into the yard. On the other side of the chimney, a door leads into a bathing-room, 7×6 feet, into which hot water is drawn from one of the boilers adjoining, and cold water may be introduced, by a hand-pump, through a pipe leading into the well or cistern.
Opening from the kitchen into the wing, there's a large closet and pantry, equipped with a table, drawers, and shelves for storing dishes, tableware, and food items for quick access. This room measures 14×8 feet and is well-lit by a window of appropriate size. If needed, a partition can be added to separate part of the room from the daily activities required by the family. In this room, which is close to the kitchen, the sink, hot water, and other little household tools that good homemakers skillfully organize and appreciate, all the essential table comforts can be prepared and stored away under lock and key in drawers, tubs, or jars, keeping the homemaker within sight of their helpers in other areas. Next to this room, and connected by a door, is the dairy, or milk room, also 14×8 feet; if necessary, it can be set three or four feet below ground for extra coolness in the summer, with access by steps. This room has plenty of shelves for milk pans and conveniences for churning, etc. However, if the dairy is a significant aspect of the farm, a separate structure may be needed, and the excavation might not be required for regular household use. From this milk room, a door leads into a washroom, measuring 18×14 feet. A passage from the kitchen also leads here. The washroom has two windows at the back and one at the front for lighting. A sink is situated between the two back windows, with a drain leading outside, and a closet underneath for the ironing tools. There are boilers in the chimney at the end, along with a fireplace, oven, or any other necessary appliances, plus a door leading to a platform in the woodhouse and into the yard. On the opposite side of the chimney, a door leads into a bathing room, measuring 7×6 feet, where hot water is drawn from one of the adjoining boilers, and cold water can be supplied by a hand pump through a pipe that connects to the well or cistern.
As no more convenient opportunity may present itself, a word or two will be suggested as to the location of the bath-room in a country house. In city houses, or country houses designed for the summer occupancy of city dwellers, the bathing-rooms are usually placed in the second or chamber story, and the water for their supply is drawn from cisterns still above them. This arrangement, in city houses, is made chiefly from the want of room on the ground floor; and, also, thus arranged in the city-country houses, because they are so constructed in the city. In the farm house, or in the country house proper, occupied by whom it may be, such arrangement is unnecessary, expensive, and inconvenient. Unnecessary, because there is no want of room on the ground; expensive, because an upper cistern is always liable to leakages, and a consequent wastage of water, wetting, and rotting out the floors, and all the slopping and dripping which such accidents 123 occasion; and inconvenient, from the continual up-and-down-stair labor of those who occupy the bath, to say nothing of the piercing the walls of the house, for the admission of pipes to lead in and let out the water, and the thousand-and-one vexations, by way of plumbers' bills, and expense of getting to and from the house itself, always a distance of some miles from the mechanic.
Since there may not be another opportunity to discuss it, here are a couple of points about where to locate the bathroom in a country house. In city houses, or in country homes designed for summer use by city dwellers, bathrooms are usually located on the second floor or upper level, with water supplied from cisterns above them. This setup is mainly due to the lack of space on the ground floor in city homes, and it's arranged this way in country homes because they mimic the city designs. However, in a farmhouse or a true country house, it’s unnecessary, costly, and impractical. It's unnecessary because there's usually plenty of room on the ground floor; it's costly because an upper cistern is prone to leaks, wasting water, damaging floors, and causing all sorts of messes; and it's inconvenient due to the constant effort of going up and down stairs for those using the bath. Not to mention, there are issues with drilling holes in the walls to install pipes for bringing in and draining out water, along with a multitude of frustrations like plumber bills and the extra costs of traveling back and forth from the house, which is often several miles away from the plumber. 123
The only defence for such location of the bath-room and cisterns is, the convenience and privacy of access to them, by the females of the family. This counts but little, if anything, over the place appropriated in this, and the succeeding designs of this work. The access is almost, if not quite as private as the other, and, in case of ill-health, as easily approachable to invalids. And on the score of economy in construction, repair, or accident, the plan here adopted is altogether preferable. In this plan, the water is drawn from the boiler by the turning of a cock; that from the cistern, by a minute's labor with the hand-pump. It is let off by the drawing of a plug, and discharges, by a short pipe, into the adjoining garden, or grassplat, to moisten and invigorate the trees and plants which require it, and the whole affair is clean and sweet again. A screen for the window gives all the privacy required, and the most fastidious, shrinking female is as retired as in the shadiest nook of her dressing-room.
The only reason for placing the bathroom and water tanks here is for the convenience and privacy of the women in the family. This matters very little, if at all, compared to the designated spaces in this and the upcoming designs in this work. The access is almost, if not just as private as the alternative, and in case of illness, it’s just as easy for those who are unwell to reach. When it comes to cost in construction, maintenance, or accidents, the approach used here is definitely better. In this design, water is drawn from the boiler simply by turning a faucet; water from the tank requires just a minute of effort with a hand pump. It’s released by pulling a plug, and flows through a short pipe into the nearby garden or lawn, to hydrate and nourish the trees and plants that need it, leaving everything clean and fresh again. A screen on the window provides all the privacy needed, and even the most delicate, modest woman feels just as secluded as she would in the coziest corner of her dressing room.
So with water-closets. A fashion prevails of thrusting these noisome things into the midst of sleeping chambers and living rooms—pandering to effeminacy, and, at times, surcharging the house—for they 124 cannot, at all times, and under all circumstances, be kept perfectly close—with their offensive odor. Out of the house they belong; and if they, by any means, find their way within its walls proper, the fault will not be laid at our door.
So it is with toilets. There's a trend of putting these unpleasant fixtures right in the middle of bedrooms and living rooms—catering to softness, and sometimes overloading the home—because they can't always be kept perfectly sealed, with their bad smell. They belong outside the house; and if they somehow end up inside, the blame won't be ours. 124
To get back to our description. This bathing-room occupies a corner of the wood-house.
To return to our description, this bathroom is located in a corner of the woodshed.
A raised platform passes from the wash-room in, past the bath-room, to a water-closet, which may be divided into two apartments, if desirable. The vaults are accessible from the rear, for cleaning out, or introducing lime, gypsum, powdered charcoal, or other deodorizing material. At the extreme corner of the wood-house, a door opens into a feed and swill-room, 20×8 feet, which is reached by steps, and stands quite eighteen inches above the ground level, on a stone under-pinning, or with a stone cellar beneath, for the storage of roots in winter. In one corner of this is a boiler and chimney, for cooking food for the pigs and chickens. A door leads from this room into the piggery, 20×12 feet, where half-a-dozen swine may be kept. A door leads from this pen into a yard, in the rear, where they will be less offensive than if confined within. If necessary, a flight of steps, leading to the loft overhead, may be built, where corn can be stored for their feeding.
A raised platform goes from the washroom through the bathroom to a toilet, which can be divided into two separate spaces if needed. The vaults can be accessed from the back for cleaning or for adding lime, gypsum, powdered charcoal, or other deodorizing materials. At the far end of the woodhouse, a door leads into a feed and swill room measuring 20×8 feet, which is accessed by steps and is about eighteen inches above the ground level, supported by a stone foundation, or with a stone cellar beneath for storing roots in the winter. In one corner of this room is a boiler and chimney for cooking food for the pigs and chickens. A door connects this room to the pig pen, which is 20×12 feet, where you can keep about six pigs. Another door from this pen opens into a yard at the back, where the pigs will be less of a nuisance than if they were kept inside. If needed, a staircase can be built leading to the loft above, where corn can be stored for their feeding.
Next to this is the workshop and tool-house, 18×14 feet; and, in rear, a snug, warm house for the family chickens, 18×6 feet. These chickens may also have the run of the yard in rear, with the pigs, and apartments in the loft overhead for roosting.
Next to this is the workshop and tool shed, 18×14 feet; and, at the back, a cozy, warm house for the family chickens, 18×6 feet. These chickens can also roam around the yard in the back with the pigs, and there are space in the loft above for them to roost.
125 Adjoining the workshop is the carriage house, 18×18 feet, with a flight of stairs to the hayloft above, in which is, also, a dovecote; and, leading out of the carriage floor, is the stable, 18×12 feet, with stalls for two or four horses, and a passage of four feet wide, from the carriage-house into it; thus completing, and drawing under one continuous roof, and at less exposure than if separated, the chief every-day requirements of living, to a well-arranged and highly-respectable family.
125 Next to the workshop is the carriage house, measuring 18×18 feet, with stairs leading up to the hayloft above, which also includes a dovecote. Connected to the carriage floor is the stable, 18×12 feet, featuring stalls for two to four horses, and a four-foot-wide passage that leads from the carriage house into the stable. This setup combines the main everyday needs of a well-organized and respectable family under one continuous roof, reducing exposure compared to having them separated.
The chamber plan of the dwelling will be readily understood by reference to its arrangement. There are a sufficiency of closets for all purposes, and the whole are accessible from either flight of stairs. The rooms over the wing, of course, should be devoted to the male domestics of the family, work-people, &c.
The layout of the house will be easy to understand by looking at how it's arranged. There are enough closets for all needs, and everything can be accessed from either set of stairs. The rooms above the wing should be used for the male staff of the household, workers, etc.
SURROUNDING PLANTATIONS, SHRUBBERY, WALKS, ETC.
After the general remarks made in the preceding pages, no particular instructions can be given for the manner in which this residence should be embellished in its trees and shrubbery. The large forest trees, always grand, graceful, and appropriate, would become such a house, throwing a protecting air around and over its quiet, unpretending roof. Vines, or climbing roses, might throw their delicate spray around the columns of the modest veranda, and a varied selection of familiar shrubbery and ornamental plants checker the immediate front and sides of the house looking out upon the lawn; through which a spacious walk, or 126 carriage-way should wind, from the high road, or chief approach.
After the general comments made in the previous pages, no specific instructions can be provided on how to decorate this residence with its trees and shrubs. The large forest trees, always impressive, graceful, and suitable, would complement such a house, creating a protective atmosphere around its quiet, unassuming roof. Vines or climbing roses could drape their delicate blossoms around the columns of the simple veranda, while a diverse selection of familiar shrubs and ornamental plants could create a pattern in the immediate front and sides of the house facing the lawn; through which a wide path or 126 driveway should meander from the main road or primary entrance.
There are, however, so many objects to be consulted in the various sites of houses, that no one rule can be laid down for individual guidance. The surface of the ground immediately adjoining the house must be considered; the position of the house, as it is viewed from surrounding objects; its altitude, or depression, as affected by the adjacent lands; its command upon surrounding near, or distant objects, in the way of prospect; the presence of water, either in stream, pond, or lake, far or near, or the absence of water altogether—all these enter immediately into the manner in which the lawn of a house should be laid out, and worked, and planted. But as a rule, all filagree work, such as serpentine paths, and tortuous, unmeaning circles, artificial piles of rock, and a multitude of small ornaments—so esteemed, by some—should never be introduced into the lawn of a farm house. It is unmeaning, in the first place; expensive in its care, in the second place; unsatisfactory and annoying altogether. Such things about a farm establishment are neither dignified nor useful, and should be left to town's-people, having but a stinted appreciation of what constitutes natural beauty, and wanting to make the most of the limited piece of ground of which they are possessed.
There are so many things to consider when it comes to the various features of houses that no single rule can guide everyone. The ground surrounding the house needs attention; the way the house looks from nearby objects; its height or how low it is compared to the nearby land; its view of surrounding sites, whether they are close or far away; the presence of water—whether in a stream, pond, or lake, nearby or far away—or the complete lack of it; all these factors directly influence how the yard of a house should be designed, maintained, and planted. Generally, all filagree work, like winding paths, pointless circles, artificial rock piles, and lots of small ornaments—which some people admire—shouldn't be included in the yard of a farm house. First, they are pointless; second, they are costly to maintain; and overall, they are frustrating and unsatisfactory. Such features on a farm are neither dignified nor practical and should be left to city dwellers, who have a limited understanding of what true natural beauty is and want to make the most of their small piece of land.
Nor would we shut out, by these remarks, the beauty and odor of the flower-borders, which are so appropriately the care of the good matron of the household and her comely daughters. To them may be devoted a well-dug plat beneath the windows, or in the garden. 127 Enough, and to spare, they should always have, of such cheerful, life-giving pleasures. We only object to their being strewed all over the ground,—a tussoc of plant here, a patch of posey there, and a scattering of both everywhere, without either system or meaning. They lower the dignity and simplicity of the country dwelling altogether.
We wouldn't dismiss, with these comments, the beauty and fragrance of the flower beds, which are rightly tended to by the good matriarch of the household and her lovely daughters. They can have a well-tended plot beneath the windows or in the garden. 127 They should always have plenty of these joyful, life-enhancing pleasures. Our only issue is with them being randomly scattered all over the ground—a clump of plants here, a patch of flowers there, and bits of both everywhere, without any organization or purpose. It undermines the dignity and simplicity of the country home completely.
The business approach to this house is, of course, toward the stables and carriage-house, and from them should lead off the main farm-avenue.
The business side of this house is clearly directed towards the stables and carriage house, and from there, the main farm avenue should extend.
The kitchen garden, if possible, should lie on the kitchen side of the house, where, also, should be placed the bee-house, in full sight from the windows, that their labors and swarming may be watched. In fact, the entire economy of the farm house, and its appendages, should be brought close under the eye of the household, to engage their care and watchfulness, and to interest them in all the little associations and endearments—and they are many, when properly studied out—which go to make agricultural life one of the most agreeable pursuits, if not altogether so, in which our lot in life may be cast.
The kitchen garden should ideally be located on the kitchen side of the house, where the bee house should also be placed, visible from the windows so that you can watch their work and swarming. In fact, the whole layout of the farmhouse and its features should be kept close to the household's attention to foster care and vigilance, and to connect them with all the little details and affections—and there are many, when properly considered—that make agricultural life one of the most enjoyable pursuits, if not the most enjoyable, that we might experience in life.
A fruit-garden, too, should be a prominent object near this house. We are now advancing somewhat into the elegances of agricultural life; and although fruit trees, and good fruits too, should hold a strong place in the surroundings of even the humblest of all country places—sufficient, at least, for the ample use of the family—they have not yet been noticed, to any extent, in those already described. It may be remarked, that the fruit-garden—the orchard, for market 128 purposes, is not here intended—should be placed in near proximity to the house. All the small fruits, for household use, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, blackberries, grapes, as well as apricots, plums, nectarines, peaches, pears, apples, quinces, or whatever fruits may be cultivated, in different localities, should be close by, for the convenience of collecting them, and to protect them from destruction by vermin, birds, or the depredations of creatures called human.
A fruit garden should definitely be a key feature near this house. We're now moving into the finer points of rural living; even in the simplest country homes, fruit trees and good quality fruits should be a significant part of the landscape—enough, at least, for the family's needs. However, they haven't really been mentioned much in what we've covered so far. It's worth noting that the fruit garden—specifically for household use, not for market purposes—should be situated close to the house. All the small fruits for home consumption, like strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, blackberries, and grapes, as well as apricots, plums, nectarines, peaches, pears, apples, quinces, or any other fruits you can grow in different areas, should be nearby for easy picking and to keep them safe from pests, birds, or the mischief of humans.
A decided plan of arrangement for all the plantations and grounds, should enter into the composition of the site for the dwelling, out-houses, gardens, &c., as they are to appear when the whole establishment is completed; and nothing left to accident, chance, or after-thought, which can be disposed of at the commencement. By the adoption of such a course, the entire composition is more easily perfected, and with infinitely greater expression of character, than if left to the chance designs, or accidental demands of the future.
A clear plan for organizing all the plantations and grounds should be part of the design for the house, outbuildings, gardens, etc., as they will look when the whole setup is finished; nothing should be left to chance, luck, or later consideration that can be decided at the start. By taking this approach, the overall design can be completed more easily and with much greater character than if it were left to random plans or unforeseen needs in the future.
Another feature should be strictly enforced, in the outward appointments of the farm house,—and that is, the entire withdrawal of any use of the highway, in its occupation by the stock of the farm, except in leading them to and from its enclosures. Nothing looks more slovenly, and nothing can be more unthrifty, in an enclosed country, than the running of farm stock in the highway. What so untidy as the approach to a house, with a herd of filthy hogs rooting about the fences, basking along the sidewalk, or 129 feeding at a huge, uncouth, hollowed log, in the road near the dwelling. It may be out of place here to speak of it, but this disgusting spectacle has so often offended our sight, at the approach of an otherwise pleasant farm establishment, that we cannot forego the opportunity to speak of it. The road lying in front, or between the different sections of the farm, should be as well, and as cleanly kept as any portion of the enclosures, and it is equally a sin against good taste and neighborhood-morality, to have it otherwise.
Another feature should be strictly enforced in the exterior appearance of the farmhouse, and that is the complete avoidance of using the highway for the farm’s livestock, except when guiding them to and from their enclosures. Nothing looks messier, and nothing can be more wasteful in a fenced-in area, than livestock roaming on the highway. What could be more unkempt than arriving at a house with a bunch of dirty pigs rummaging around the fences, lounging on the sidewalk, or feeding at a large, awkward hollowed log in the road near the home? It might seem out of place to mention it here, but this disgusting sight has frequently offended our eyes when approaching otherwise pleasant farm establishments, so we can’t miss the chance to address it. The road out front, or between different sections of the farm, should be just as well-maintained and clean as any part of the enclosures, and it is equally a violation of good taste and community standards to allow it to be otherwise.
TREE-PLANTING IN THE HIGHWAY.
This is frequently recommended by writers on country embellishment, as indispensable to a finished decoration of the farm. Such may, or may not be the fact. Trees shade the roads, when planted on their sides, and so they partially do the fields adjoining, making the first muddy, in bad weather, by preventing the sun drying them, and shading the crops of the last by their overhanging foliage, in the season of their growth. Thus they are an evil, in moist and heavy soils. Yet, in light soils, their shade is grateful to the highway traveler, and not, perhaps, injurious to the crops of the adjoining field; and when of proper kinds, they add grace and beauty to the domain in which they stand. 130 We do not, therefore, indiscriminately recommend them, but leave it to the discretion of the farmer, to decide for himself, having seen estates equally pleasant with, and without trees on the roadside. Nothing, however, can be more beautiful than a clump of trees in a pasture-ground, with a herd, or a flock beneath them, near the road; or the grand and overshadowing branches of stately tree, in a rich meadow, leaning, perhaps, over the highway fence, or flourishing in its solitary grandeur, in the distance—each, and all, imposing features in the rural landscape. All such should be preserved, with the greatest care and solicitude, as among the highest and most attractive ornaments which the farm can boast.
This is often recommended by writers on country decoration as essential for completing the look of a farm. Whether that's true or not is up for debate. Trees provide shade along the roads when planted nearby, which can also partially shade the adjacent fields. This can make the roads muddy in bad weather by blocking sunlight from drying them out, and it can also shade crops with their overhanging leaves during the growing season. So, in moist and heavy soils, they can be a drawback. However, in lighter soils, their shade can be refreshing for travelers and may not harm the crops in neighboring fields. When the right types are chosen, they can also enhance the beauty of the property. 130 Therefore, we don’t recommend them without careful consideration, allowing farmers to make their own decisions after seeing properties that are equally appealing both with and without roadside trees. Nonetheless, nothing is more beautiful than a cluster of trees in a pasture with a herd or flock gathered under them near the road, or the grand, sweeping branches of a majestic tree in a lush meadow, perhaps leaning over a highway fence or standing alone in the distance—each of these features adds charm to the rural landscape. All such trees should be preserved with the utmost care, as they are among the most beautiful and appealing elements a farm can have.
FARM HOUSE. Pages 131-132.
Farmhouse. Pages 131-132.
Design V.
We here present a dwelling of a more ambitious and pretending character than any one which we have, as yet, described, and calculated for a large and wealthy farmer, who indulges in the elegances of country life, dispenses a liberal hospitality, and is every way a country gentleman, such as all our farmers of ample means should be. It will answer the demands of the retired man of business as well; and is, perhaps, as full in its various accommodation as an American farm or country house may require. It claims no distinct style of architecture, but is a composition agreeable in effect, and appropriate to almost any part of the country, and its climate. Its site may be on either hill or plain—with a view extensive, or restricted. It may look out over broad savannas, cultivated fields, and shining waters; it may nestle amid its own quiet woods and lawn in its own selected shade and retirement, or lord it over an extensive park, ranged by herds and flocks, meandered by its own stream, spreading anon into the placid lake, or rushing swiftly over its own narrow bed—an independent, substantial, convenient, and well-conditioned home, standing upon its own broad acres, and comporting with the character and standing of its occupant, among his friends and neighbors.
We present a home that is more ambitious and pretentious than any we've described so far, designed for a large, wealthy farmer who enjoys the finer things of country life, offers generous hospitality, and embodies the ideal of a country gentleman that all our well-off farmers should aspire to be. It also meets the needs of a retired business professional and is possibly as accommodating as any American farm or country house might require. It doesn’t adhere to a specific architectural style but is a pleasing composition that fits well in almost any location and climate. Its location can be on a hill or flat land, with a wide or limited view. It might overlook vast grasslands, cultivated fields, and sparkling waters; it could be nestled among its own peaceful woods and lawn in a chosen spot of shade and seclusion, or it might dominate a large park with herds and flocks, winding streamlets, spreading into a serene lake, or swiftly flowing over a narrow bed—an independent, substantial, comfortable, and well-maintained home, set on its own expansive grounds, reflecting the character and status of its occupant among friends and neighbors.
134 The main building is 50×40 feet in area upon the ground, two stories high; the ground story 11 feet high, its floor elevated 2½ or 3 feet above the level of the surrounding surface, as its position may demand; the chambers 9 feet high, and running 2 feet into the roof. The rear wing is one and a half stories high, 36×16 feet; the lower rooms 11 feet high, with a one story lean-to range of closets, and small rooms on the weather side, 8 feet in width and 9 feet high. In the rear of these is a wood-house, 30×20 feet, with 10 feet posts, dropped to a level with the ground. At the extremity of this is a building, by way of an L, 60×20 feet, one and a half stories high, with a lean-to, 12×30 feet, in the rear. The ground rooms of this are elevated 1½ feet above the ground, and 9 feet high. A broad roof covers the whole, standing at an angle of 40 or 45° above a horizontal line, and projecting widely over the walls, 2½ to 3 feet on the main building, and 2 feet on the others, to shelter them perfectly from the storms and damps of the weather. A small cupola stands out of the ridge of the rear building, which may serve as a ventilator to the apartments and lofts below, and in it may be hung a bell, to summon the household, or the field laborers, as the case may be, to their duties or their meals.
134 The main building covers an area of 50×40 feet and is two stories tall; the first floor is 11 feet high, raised 2½ or 3 feet above the surrounding ground, depending on its location. The bedrooms are 9 feet high and extend 2 feet into the roof. The back wing is one and a half stories high, measuring 36×16 feet; the lower rooms are 11 feet high, with a single-story lean-to that includes closets and small rooms on the windy side, which are 8 feet wide and 9 feet high. Behind these is a wood shed that is 30×20 feet, with 10-foot posts, flush with the ground. At the end of this is an L-shaped structure measuring 60×20 feet, one and a half stories high, with a lean-to at the back measuring 12×30 feet. The ground-level rooms in this part are raised 1½ feet above the ground and are 9 feet high. A broad roof covers the entire structure, sloping at a 40 or 45° angle from the horizontal, extending out over the walls by 2½ to 3 feet on the main building and 2 feet on the others, effectively protecting them from storms and dampness. A small cupola rises from the ridge of the back building, which can ventilate the rooms and lofts below, and a bell can be hung there to call the household or field workers to their tasks or meals.
The design, as here shown, is rather florid, and perhaps profusely ornamental in its finish, as comporting with the taste of the day; but the cut and moulded trimmings may be left off by those who prefer a plain finish, and be no detriment to the general effect which the deep friezes of the roofs, properly cased beneath, 135 may give to it. Such, indeed, is our own taste; but this full finish has been added, to gratify such as wish the full ornament which this style of building may admit.
The design shown here is quite elaborate and possibly overly decorative for today's tastes; however, the detailed trimmings can be removed for those who prefer a simpler look, without negatively affecting the overall impact of the deep friezes on the roofs when they are properly cased underneath. This is actually our preference too, but the complete finishing touches have been included for those who appreciate the full ornamentation that this architectural style allows. 135
GROUND PLAN.
Floor plan.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
The front of this house is accommodated by a porch, or veranda, 40 feet long, and 10 feet wide, with a central, or entrance projection of 18 feet in length, and 12 feet in width, the floor of which is eight inches below the main floor of the house. The wings, or sides of this veranda may be so fitted up as to allow a pleasant conservatory on each side of the entrance area in winter, by enclosing them with glass windows, and the introduction of heat from a furnace under the main hall, in the cellar of the house. This would add to its general effect in winter, and, if continued through the summer, would not detract from its expression of dignity and refinement. From the veranda, a door in the center of the front, with two side windows, leads into the main hall, which is 26×12 feet in area, two feet in the width of which is taken from the rooms on the right of the main entrance. On the left of the hall a door opens into a parlor or drawing-room, marked P, 20 feet square, with a bay window on one side, containing three sashes, and seats beneath. A single window lights the front opening on to the veranda. On the opposite side to this is the fireplace, with blank walls on each side. On the opposite side of the hall is a library, 18×16 feet, with an end window, and a 137 corresponding one to the parlor, in front, looking out on the veranda. In case these portions of the veranda, opposite the two front windows are occupied as conservatories, these windows should open to the floor, to admit a walk immediately into them. At the farther corner of the library a narrow door leads into an office, or business apartment, 12×8 feet, and opening by a broad door, the upper half of which is a lighted sash. This door leads from the office out on a small porch, with a floor and two columns, 8×5 feet, and nine feet high, with a gable and double roof of the same pitch as the house. Between the chimney flues, in the rear of this room may be placed an iron safe, or chest for the deposit of valuable papers; and, although small, a table and chairs sufficient to accommodate the business requirements of the occupant, may be kept in it. A chimney stands in the center of the inner wall of the library, in which may be a fireplace, or a flue to receive a stovepipe, whichever may be preferred for warming the room.
The front of this house features a porch, or veranda, that's 40 feet long and 10 feet wide, with a central entrance projection measuring 18 feet in length and 12 feet in width. The floor of the entrance is eight inches lower than the main floor of the house. The sides of this veranda can be set up to create a nice conservatory on each side of the entrance area in winter, by enclosing them with glass windows and adding heat from a furnace in the basement of the house. This would enhance its overall look in winter, and if done throughout the summer, it wouldn't take away from its dignified and refined appearance. From the veranda, a door in the center of the front, flanked by two side windows, leads into the main hall, which is 26 by 12 feet in area, with two feet taken from the width for the rooms on the right of the main entrance. On the left side of the hall, a door opens into a parlor or drawing-room, marked P, which is 20 feet square and has a bay window on one side that holds three sashes with seating underneath. A single window provides light to the front, opening toward the veranda. Opposite this, there’s a fireplace with blank walls on either side. On the other side of the hall is a library that measures 18 by 16 feet, featuring an end window and a corresponding one to the parlor that looks out onto the veranda. If these parts of the veranda, opposite the two front windows, are used as conservatories, the windows should reach the floor to allow direct access. In the far corner of the library, a narrow door leads into an office or business room that's 12 by 8 feet, featuring a broad door with an upper half that’s a lighted sash. This door leads from the office out onto a small porch that is 8 by 5 feet, nine feet high, with a gable and a double roof sloped like the house. Between the chimney flues at the back of this room, there can be an iron safe or chest for storing valuable papers; although small, it can still accommodate a table and chairs to meet the business needs of the occupant. A chimney is positioned in the center of the inner wall of the library, which could either have a fireplace or a flue for a stovepipe, depending on the preferred method for heating the room.
Near the hall side of the library a door opens into a passage leading into the family bedroom, or nursery. A portion of this passage may be shelved and fitted up as a closet for any convenient purpose. The nursery is 18×16 feet in size, lighted by two windows. It may have an open fireplace, or a stove, as preferred, let into the chimney, corresponding to that in the library. These two chimneys may either be drawn together in the chambers immediately above, or carried up separately into the garret, and pass out of the roof in one stack, or they maybe built in one solid mass from the 138 cellar bottom; but they are so placed here, as saving room on the floors, and equally accommodating, in their separate divisions, the stovepipes that may lead into them. On the inner side of the nursery, a door leads into a large closet, or child's sleeping-room, 9×8 feet; or it may be used as a dressing-room, with a sash inserted in the door to light it. A door may also lead from it into the small rear entry of the house, and thus pass directly out, without communicating with the nursery. On the extreme left corner of the nursery is a door leading into the back entry, by which it communicates either with the rear porch, the dining-room, or the kitchen. Such a room we consider indispensable to the proper accommodation of a house in the country, as saving a world of up-and-down-stairs' labor to her who is usually charged with the domestic cares and supervision of the family.
Near the library's hallway, a door opens into a passage that leads to the family bedroom or nursery. Part of this passage can be set up as a closet for various convenient uses. The nursery measures 18×16 feet and is lit by two windows. It can have an open fireplace or a stove, depending on preference, installed in the chimney that corresponds to the one in the library. These two chimneys can either connect in the rooms directly above or rise independently into the attic, exiting through a single stack in the roof, or they can be built as one solid structure from the cellar. However, they are designed to save space on the floors and to accommodate the stovepipes that lead into them. On the inside of the nursery, a door opens into a large closet or child's sleeping room measuring 9×8 feet; this space can also be used as a dressing room, with a window fitted in the door for light. Another door may lead from this room into a small back entry of the house, providing a direct exit without connecting to the nursery. In the far left corner of the nursery, there’s a door leading into the back entry, giving access to the rear porch, dining room, or kitchen. We believe such a room is essential for the proper functioning of a house in the country, as it saves a lot of time and effort for the person typically responsible for the household chores and oversight of the family.
On the right of the main hall an ample staircase leads into the upper hall by a landing and broad stair at eight feet above the floor, and a right-angled flight from that to the main floor above. Under this main hall staircase, a door and stairs may lead into the cellar. Beyond the turning flight below, a door leads into the back hall, or entry, already mentioned, which is 13×4 feet in area, which also has a side passage of 8×4 feet, and a door leading to the rear porch, and another into the kitchen at its farther side, near the outer one. Opposite the turning flight of stairs, in the main hall, is also a door leading to the dining-room, 20×16 feet. This is lighted by a large double window at the end. A fireplace, or stove flue is in the center wall, and on 139 each side a closet for plate, or table furniture. These closets come out flush with the chimney. At the extreme right corner a door leads into the rear entry—or this may be omitted, at pleasure. Another door in the rear wall leads into the kitchen, past the passage down into the cellar—or this may be omitted, if thought best. Still another door to the left, opens into a large dining closet of the back lean-to apartments, 8×8 feet. This closet is lighted by a window of proper architectural size, and fitted up with a suite of drawers, shelves, table, and cupboards, required for the preparation and deposit of the lighter family stores and edibles. From this closet is also a door leading into the kitchen, through which may be passed all the meats and cookery for the table, either for safe-keeping, or immediate service. Here the thrifty and careful housekeeper and her assistants may, shut apart, and by themselves, get up, fabricate, and arrange all their table delicacies with the greatest convenience and privacy, together with ease of access either to the dining-room or kitchen—an apartment most necessary in a liberally-arranged establishment.
On the right side of the main hall, a wide staircase leads to the upper hall, with a landing and broad steps that rise about eight feet above the floor, followed by a right-angled turn to the main floor above. Under this main hall staircase, there’s a door and stairs that lead to the cellar. Beyond the lower turning stairs, a door leads into the back hall, or entryway, which measures 13×4 feet and also includes a side passage of 8×4 feet, a door to the rear porch, and another one into the kitchen on the opposite side, near the outer door. Directly across from the turning stairs in the main hall, there’s a door leading to the dining room, which is 20×16 feet. It is illuminated by a large double window at the far end. A fireplace or stove flue is in the center wall, with closets for plates or tableware on each side, flush with the chimney. In the far right corner, there’s a door that leads into the rear entry—which can be omitted if desired. Another door in the back wall opens into the kitchen, passing the staircase down to the cellar—this door can be omitted if preferred. To the left, an additional door opens into a large dining closet in the back lean-to area, measuring 8×8 feet. This closet features a window of appropriate architectural size and is equipped with drawers, shelves, a table, and cupboards for storing and preparing lighter family supplies and food items. From this closet, there’s also a door leading into the kitchen, allowing all meats and dishes to be passed through for storage or immediate service. Here, a careful and resourceful housekeeper and her helpers can separately manage the preparation and arrangement of all their table delights with convenience and privacy, while easily accessing both the dining room and kitchen—an essential space in a well-organized home.
From the rear entry opens a door to the kitchen, passing by the rear chamber stairs. This flight of stairs may be entered directly from the kitchen, leading either to the chamber, or under them, into the cellar, without coming into the passage connecting with the entry or dining-room, if preferred. In such case, a broad stair of thirty inches in width should be next the door, on which to turn, as the door would be at right angles with the stairs, either up or down.
From the back entrance, there's a door that leads into the kitchen, next to the staircase to the back chamber. You can access this staircase directly from the kitchen, which takes you either up to the chamber or down to the cellar, without having to go through the hallway that connects to the entry or the dining room, if that's what you prefer. In that case, a wide staircase about thirty inches wide should be placed next to the door, so that you can turn either up or down since the door will be at a right angle to the stairs.
140 The kitchen is 20×16 feet, and 11 feet high. It has an outer door leading on the rear porch, and a window on each side of that door; also a window, under which is a sink, on the opposite side, at the end of a passage four feet wide, leading through the lean-to. It has also an open fireplace, and an oven by the side of it—old fashion. It may be also furnished with a cooking range, or stove—the smoke and fumes leading by a pipe into a flue into the chimney. On the lean-to side is a milk or dairy-room, 8×8 feet, lighted by a window. Here also the kitchen furniture and meats may be stored in cupboards made for the purpose. In rear of the kitchen, and leading from it by a door through a lighted passage next the rear porch, is the wash-room, 16×16 feet, lighted by a large window from the porch side. A door also leads out of the rear on to a platform into the wood-house. Another door leads from the wash-room into a bath-room in the lean-to 8×8 feet, into which warm water is drawn by a pipe and pump from the boiler in the wash-room; or, if preferred, the bath-room may be entered from the main kitchen, by the passage next the sink. This bath-room is lighted by a window. Next to the bath-room is a bedroom for a man servant who has charge of the fires, and heavy house-work, wood, &c., &c. This bedroom is also 8×8 feet, and lighted by a window in the lean-to. In front of this wash-room and kitchen is a porch, eight inches below the floor, six feet wide, with a railing, or not, as may be preferred. (The railing is made in the cut.) A platform, three feet wide, leads from the back door of the wash-room to a 141 water-closet for the family proper. The wood-house is open in front, with a single post supporting the center of the roof. At the extreme outer angle is a water-closet for the domestics of the establishment.
140 The kitchen is 20×16 feet and 11 feet high. It has an outer door that opens onto the back porch, with a window on each side of that door; there's also a window, under which is a sink, on the opposite side at the end of a four-foot-wide passage leading through the lean-to. The kitchen features an open fireplace with an old-fashioned oven beside it. It may also include a cooking range or stove, with smoke and fumes directed through a pipe into a chimney flue. On the lean-to side is a milk or dairy room, 8×8 feet, illuminated by a window. This area can also be used to store kitchen supplies and meat in specially designed cupboards. Behind the kitchen, accessed via a door through a lighted passage next to the back porch, is the washroom, which is 16×16 feet and lit by a large window from the porch side. Another door leads out from the back onto a platform into the woodhouse. A further door connects the washroom to an 8×8-foot bathroom in the lean-to, where warm water is supplied via a pipe and pump from the boiler in the washroom; alternatively, the bathroom can also be accessed from the main kitchen through the passage next to the sink. This bathroom has a window for light. Next to the bathroom is a bedroom for a male servant responsible for lighting the fires and doing heavy housework, including wood-related tasks. This bedroom is also 8×8 feet and has a window in the lean-to. In front of the washroom and kitchen is a porch that is eight inches lower than the floor, six feet wide, with an optional railing (the railing is shown in the illustration). A three-foot-wide platform connects the back door of the washroom to a family water closet. The woodhouse is open at the front and supported by a single post in the center of the roof. At the far corner, there is a water closet for the staff. 141
Adjoining the wood-house, and opening from it into the L before mentioned, is a workshop, and small-tool-house, 20×16 feet, lighted by a large double window at one end. In this should be a carpenter's work-bench and tool-chest, for the repairs of the farming utensils and vehicles. Overhead is a store-room for lumber, or whatever else may be necessary for use in that capacity. Next to this is a granary or feed-room, 20×10 feet, with a small chimney in one corner, where may be placed a boiler to cook food for pigs, poultry, &c., as the case may be. Here may also be bins for storage of grain and meal. Leading out of this is a flight of stairs passing to the chamber above, and a passage four feet wide, through the rear, into a yard adjoining. At the further end of the stairs a door opens into a poultry house, 16×10 feet, including the stairs. The poultry room is lighted at the extreme left corner, by a broad window. In this may be made roosts, and nesting places, and feeding troughs. A low door under the window may be also made for the fowls in passing to the rear yard. Adjoining the granary, and leading to it by a door, is the carriage-house, 20×20 feet, at the gable end of which are large doors for entrance. From the carriage-house is a broad passage of six feet, into the stables, which are 12 feet wide, and occupy the lean-to. This lean-to is eight feet high below the eaves, with two double stalls for 142 horses, and a door leading into the side yard, with the doors of the carriage-house. A window also lights the rear of the stables. A piggery 12 feet square occupies the remainder of the lean-to in rear of the poultry-house, in which two or three pigs can always be kept, and fatted on the offal of the house, for small pork, at any season, apart from the swine stock of the farm. A door leads out of the piggery into the rear yard, where range also the poultry. As the shed roof shuts down on to the pigsty and stables, no loft above them is necessary. In the loft over the granary, poultry, and carriage-house is deposited the hay, put in there through the doors which appear in the design.
Adjoining the woodshop and opening into the previously mentioned L-shaped area is a workshop and small-tool-house, measuring 20×16 feet, with a large double window at one end. This space should have a carpenter's workbench and tool chest for repairing farming tools and vehicles. Above is a storage area for lumber or any other necessary supplies. Next to this is a granary or feed room, 20×10 feet, featuring a small chimney in one corner where a boiler can be installed to cook food for pigs, poultry, etc., as needed. This room can also have bins for storing grain and meal. A flight of stairs leads to the upper chamber, with a four-foot-wide passage at the back leading into an adjoining yard. At the top of the stairs, a door opens into a poultry house, 16×10 feet, which includes the stairs. The poultry room has a large window in the extreme left corner, where roosts, nesting places, and feeding troughs can be set up. A low door under the window will allow the birds to access the rear yard. Next to the granary, accessible through a door, is the carriage house, 20×20 feet, with large doors for entry at the gable end. There is a broad six-foot passage from the carriage house into the stables, which are 12 feet wide and part of the lean-to. This lean-to is eight feet high under the eaves with two double stalls for horses and a door leading into the side yard alongside the carriage house doors. A window also provides light in the back of the stables. A piggery, measuring 12 feet square, occupies the remaining space in the lean-to behind the poultry house, where two or three pigs can be kept and fattened on kitchen scraps, separate from the farm’s stock. A door leads from the piggery to the rear yard, where the poultry also roam. Since the shed roof extends over the pigsty and stables, no loft above them is needed. The loft above the granary, poultry house, and carriage house will store hay, which can be loaded in through the doors shown in the design.
Chamber Plan.—This is easily understood. At the head of the stairs, over the main hall, is a large passage leading to the porch, and opening by a door-window on the middle deck of the veranda, which is nearly level, and tinned, or coppered, water-tight, as are also the two sides. On either side of this upper hall is a door leading to the front sleeping chambers, which are well closeted, and spacious. If it be desirable to construct more sleeping-rooms, they can be partitioned laterally from the hall, and doors made to enter them. A rear hall is cut off from the front, lighted by a window over the lower rear porch, and a door leads into a further passage in the wing, four feet wide, which leads down a flight of stairs into the kitchen below. At the head of this flight is a chamber 20×12 feet, for the female domestic's sleeping-room, in which may be placed a stove, if necessary, passing its pipe into the kitchen chimney which passes through it.
Chamber Plan.—This is straightforward. At the top of the stairs, above the main hall, there's a large passage leading to the porch, opening through a door-window onto the middle deck of the veranda, which is almost level and water-tight, whether tinned or coppered, as are both sides. On each side of this upper hall, there's a door that goes to the front bedrooms, which are well-equipped with closets and spacious. If more bedrooms are needed, they can be added laterally from the hall, with doors created for access. A back hall is separated from the front, illuminated by a window above the lower back porch, and a door leads into a further passage in the wing, which is four feet wide, leading down a set of stairs into the kitchen below. At the top of these stairs, there's a 20×12 feet room for the female domestic's bedroom, where a stove can be installed if needed, with its pipe connecting to the kitchen chimney that runs through it.
CHAMBER PLAN.
CHAMBER PLAN.
It is also lighted by a window over the lean-to, on the side. Back of this, at the end of the passage, is the sleeping-room, 16 feet square, for the "men-folks," lighted on both sides by a window. This may also be warmed, if desired, by a stove, the pipe passing into the kitchen chimney.
It also has a window above the lean-to on the side. At the back, at the end of the hallway, is the sleeping room, measuring 16 feet square, for the “men-folks,” which is lit by windows on both sides. This room can also be heated if needed, with a stove that vents into the kitchen chimney.
The cellar may extend under the entire house and wing, as convenience or necessity may require. If it be constructed under the main body only, an offset should be excavated to accommodate the cellar stairs, three feet in width, and walled in with the rest. A 144 wide, outer passage, with a flight of steps should also be made under the rear nursery window, for taking in and passing out bulky articles, with double doors to shut down upon it; and partition walls should be built to support the partitions of the large rooms above. Many minor items of detail might be mentioned, all of which are already treated in the general remarks, under their proper heads, in the body of the work, and which cannot here be noticed—such as the mode of warming it, the construction of furnaces, &c.
The cellar can stretch under the entire house and wing, depending on what’s needed. If it’s only built under the main part, there should be a three-foot wide excavation for the cellar stairs, enclosed just like the rest. A 144 spacious outer passage with a staircase should be created under the back nursery window for moving in and out large items, complete with double doors to close it off; and walls should be put up to support the partitions of the big rooms above. There are many smaller details that could be mentioned, all of which are covered in the general notes under their respective sections in the main text and can’t be addressed here—like how to heat the space, the construction of furnaces, etc.
It may, by some builders, be considered a striking defect in the interior accommodation of a house of this character, that the chief entrance hall should not be extended through, from its front to the rear, as is common in many of the large mansions of our country. We object to the large, open hall for more than one reason, except, possibly, in a house for summer occupation only. In the first place it is uncomfortable, in subjecting the house to an unnecessary draught of air when it is not needed, in cold weather. Secondly, it cuts the house into two distinct parts, making them inconvenient of access in crossing its wide surface. Thirdly, it is uneconomical, in taking up valuable room that can be better appropriated. For summer ventilation it is unnecessary; that may be given by simply opening the front door and a chamber window connected with the hall above, through which a current of fresh air will always pass. Another thing, the hall belongs to the front, or dress part of the house, and should be cut off from the more domestic and common apartments by a partition, although accessible to them, 145 and not directly communicating with such apartments, which cannot of necessity, be in keeping with its showy and pretending character. It should contain only the front flight of stairs, as a part of its appointments, besides the doors leading to its best apartments on the ground floor, which should be centrally placed—its rear door being of a less pretending and subordinate character. Thus, the hall, with its open doors, connecting the best rooms of the house on each side, with its ample flight of stairs in the background, gives a distinct expression of superiority in occupation to the other and humbler portions of the dwelling.
Some builders might see it as a major flaw in the interior layout of a house like this that the main entrance hall does not extend from the front to the back, which is common in many large homes in our country. We have several reasons for opposing a large, open hall, except perhaps in a house meant for summer use. First, it’s uncomfortable because it exposes the house to unnecessary drafts in cold weather. Second, it divides the house into two separate areas, making it inconvenient to move between them across the wide space. Third, it's not cost-effective, taking up valuable space that could serve a better purpose. For summer ventilation, it’s unnecessary; opening the front door and a bedroom window connected to the hall above will create a flow of fresh air. Additionally, the hall should belong to the front, or dress part of the house, and should be separated from the more domestic areas by a partition, while still being accessible to them but not directly connected, as that wouldn’t fit its stylish and formal nature. It should only have the front staircase as part of its features, along with doors leading to its best rooms on the ground floor, which should be centrally located—its back door should be less grand and more functional. This way, the hall, with its open doors linking the finest rooms on each side and its spacious staircase in the background, gives a clear impression of superiority compared to the other, simpler parts of the home. 145
In winter, too, how much more snug and comfortable is the house, shut in from the prying winds and shivering cold of the outside air, which the opposite outer doors of an open hall cannot, in their continual opening and shutting, altogether exclude! Our own experience, and, we believe, the experience of most housekeepers will readily concede its defects; and after full reflection we have excluded it as both unnecessary and inconvenient.
In winter, it's so much cozier and more comfortable inside the house, protected from the intrusive winds and biting cold outside, which the opening and closing of the outer doors in the hall can't completely keep out! From our own experience—and we believe most people who manage households would agree—it has its flaws; after careful consideration, we've decided it's both unnecessary and a hassle.
Another objection has been avoided in the better class of houses here presented, which has crept into very many of the designs of modern builders; which is, that of using the living rooms of the family, more or less, as passages from the kitchen apartments in passing to and from the front hall, or chief entrance. Such we consider a decided objection, and hence arose, probably, the older plans of by-gone years, of making the main hall reach back to the kitchen itself. This is here obviated by a cutting up of the rear section of the 146 hall, by which a passage, in all cases of the better kind of dwelling, is preserved, without encroaching upon the occupied rooms in passing out and in. To be sure, the front door is not the usual passage for the laborers or servants of the house, but they are subject, any hour of the day, to be called there to admit those who may come, and the continual opening of a private room for such purposes is most annoying. Therefore, as matter of convenience, and as a decided improvement on the designs above noticed, we have adhered strictly to the separate rear passage.
Another issue has been addressed in the better quality homes presented here, which has appeared in many designs by modern builders. This issue involves using the family living rooms as pathways to and from the kitchen and the main entrance. We see this as a major drawback, which likely led to the older designs from past years that had the main hall extending back to the kitchen itself. Here, we've resolved this by designing the back section of the hall so that a passage is preserved, ensuring that it doesn't intrude on the living spaces. The front door isn’t typically used as a route for house staff, but they may need to go there at any time of day to let in visitors, and constantly having to enter a private room for that purpose can be quite frustrating. Thus, for convenience and as a significant improvement over the previously mentioned designs, we've strictly maintained a separate rear passage.
The garret, also, as we have arranged our designs, is either altogether left out, or made a quite unimportant part of the dwelling. It is but a lumber room, at best; and should be approached only by a flight of steps from a rear chamber or passage, and used as a receptacle for useless traps, or cast-off furniture, seldom wanted. It is hot in summer, and cold in winter, unfit for decent lodging to any human being in the house, and of little account any way. We much prefer running the chambers partially into the roof, which we think gives them a more comfortable expression, and admits of a better ventilation, by carrying their ceilings higher without the expense of high body walls to the house, which would give them an otherwise naked look. If it be objected that thus running the chambers above the plates of the roof prevents the insertion of proper ties or beams to hold the roof plates together to prevent their spreading, we answer, that he must be a poor mechanic who cannot, in framing the chamber partitions so connect the opposite plates as to insure 147 them against all such difficulty. A sheltered, comfortable aspect is that which should distinguish every farm house, and the cottage chamber is one of its chiefest characteristics; and this can only be had by running such apartments into the roof, as in our design.
The attic, as we've planned, is either completely excluded or made a minor part of the home. It's basically just a storage room, at best, and should only be accessed by a staircase from a back room or hallway, serving as a place to keep unnecessary junk or discarded furniture that's rarely needed. It's hot in the summer and cold in the winter, making it unsuitable for anyone to live in and not worth much anyway. We prefer to extend the rooms partially into the roof, which we believe makes them feel cozier and allows for better ventilation by raising their ceilings without the cost of high exterior walls, which could make the house look bare. If someone argues that extending the rooms above the roof plates prevents the installation of proper supports or beams to keep the roof plates together and prevent spreading, we say that anyone who can’t frame the room partitions to securely connect the opposite plates must be a poor builder. A welcoming, cozy look is what every farmhouse should have, and the cottage room is one of its main features; this can only be achieved by extending such rooms into the roof, as in our design.
CONSTRUCTION.
A house of this kind must, according to its locality, and the material of which it is built, be liable to wide differences of estimate in its cost; and from our own experience in such matters, any estimate here made we know cannot be reliable as a rule for other localities, where the prices of material and labor are different from our own. Where lumber, stone, and brick abound, and each are to be had at reasonable prices, the cost of an establishment of this kind would not vary much in the application of either one of these materials for the walls, if well and substantially constructed. There should be no sham, nor slight, in any part of the building. As already observed, the design shows a high degree of finish, which, if building for ourself, we should not indulge in. A plain style of cornice, and veranda finish, we should certainly adopt. But the roof should not be contracted in its projecting breadth over the walls, in any part of the structure—if anything, it should be more extended. The bay-window is an appendage of luxury, only. Great care should be had, in attaching its roof to the adjoining outer wall, to prevent leakage of any kind. If the 148 walls be of brick, or stone, a beam or lintel of wood should be inserted in the wall over the window-opening, quite two inches—three would be better—back from its outer surface, to receive the casing of the window, that the drip of the wall, and the driving of the storms may fall over the connecting joints of the window roof, beyond its point of junction with it. Such, also, should be the case with the intersection of the veranda or porch roof with the wall of the house, wherever a veranda, or porch is adopted; as, simply joined on to a flush surface, as such appendages usually are—even if ever so well done—leakage and premature decay is inevitable.
A house like this will, depending on its location and the materials used, have widely varying cost estimates. From our experience, any estimates we provide here shouldn't be taken as reliable for other areas where material and labor prices differ from ours. When lumber, stone, and brick are plentiful and available at reasonable prices, the cost of building won't vary much regardless of which material is used for the walls, as long as it's constructed well and sturdily. There should be no sham or shortcuts in any part of the building. As we've mentioned, the design displays a high level of finish, which we wouldn't choose if we were building for ourselves. We would definitely go for a simple style for the cornice and the porch finish. However, the roof shouldn't be narrow in its overhang at any part of the structure—if anything, it should extend further. The bay window is purely a luxury addition. Care must be taken when attaching its roof to the adjoining outer wall to prevent any leaks. If the walls are made of brick or stone, a wooden beam or lintel should be placed in the wall above the window opening, at least two inches—and three would be better—back from the outer surface, to support the window casing. This way, wall moisture and driving storms will flow over the joints where the window roof connects, preventing issues. The same principle applies where the porch or veranda roof meets the house wall whenever a porch or veranda is included; simply attaching them to a flush surface, as they often are—even if executed well—will lead to inevitable leakage and premature decay.
The style of finish must, of course, influence, in a considerable degree, its cost. It may, with the plainest finish, be done for $4,000, and from that, up to $6,000. Every one desirous to build, should apply to the best mechanics of his neighborhood for information on that point, as, in such matters, they are the best judges, and from experience in their own particular profession, of what the cost of building must be.
The type of finish will definitely affect the cost significantly. With the simplest finish, it can be done for $4,000, and it can go up to $6,000. Everyone who wants to build should reach out to the best contractors in their area for information on this matter, as they are the most knowledgeable and have experience in their specific trade that gives insight into building costs.
The rules and customs of housekeeping vary, in different sections of the United States, and the Canadas. These, also, enter into the estimates for certain departments of building, and must be considered in the items of expenditure.
The rules and customs of housekeeping differ across various parts of the United States and Canada. These also factor into the budgets for certain construction projects and need to be taken into account in the spending items.
The manner in which houses should be warmed, the ventilation, accommodation for servants and laborers, the appropriations to hospitality—all, will have a bearing on the expense, of which we cannot be the proper judge.
The way houses should be heated, the ventilation, arrangements for servants and workers, and the expenses for hospitality—all of these will affect the costs, which we cannot accurately assess.
149 A sufficient time should be given, to build a house of this character. A house designed and built in a hurry, is never a satisfactory house in its occupation. A year is little enough, and if two years be occupied in its design and construction, the more acceptable will probably be its finish, and the more comfort will be added in its enjoyment.
149 It’s important to take enough time to build a house like this. A house that’s rushed just doesn’t work well for those living in it. A year is barely enough, and if it takes two years for design and construction, the final result will likely be better, making it more enjoyable to live in.
GROUNDS, PLANTATIONS, AND SURROUNDINGS.
A house of this kind should never stand in vulgar and familiar contact with the highway, but at a distance from it of one hundred to a thousand yards; or even, if the estate on which it is built be extensive, a much greater distance. Breadth of ground between the highway and the dwelling adds dignity and character to its appearance. An ample lawn, or a spreading park, well shaded with trees, should lay before it, through which a well-kept avenue leads to its front, and most frequented side. The various offices and buildings of the farm itself, should be at a respectable distance from it, so as not to interfere with its proper keeping as a genteel country residence. Its occupant is not to be supposed as under the necessity of toiling with his daily laborers in the fields, and therefore, although he may be strictly a man of business, he has sufficient employment in planning his work, and managing his estate through a foreman, in the various labor-occupations of the estate. His horse may be at his door in the earliest morning hours, that he may 150 inspect his fields, and give timely directions to his laborers, or view his herds, or his flocks, before his breakfast hour; or an early walk may take him to his stables, his barns, or to see that his previous directions are executed.
A house like this should never be in close and common contact with the highway, but rather set back at a distance of one hundred to one thousand yards; or even, if the property is large enough, at an even greater distance. Having space between the highway and the home adds dignity and character to its appearance. A spacious lawn or a large park, well-shaded with trees, should stretch out in front of it, with a well-maintained path leading to the main entrance and the busiest side. The various buildings and facilities of the farm should be positioned at a respectable distance so they don’t interfere with its status as a stylish country home. Its resident shouldn’t be expected to work alongside laborers in the fields, so even though he may be a businessman, he has plenty to keep him busy planning and managing his estate through a foreman and other workers. His horse might be at the door early in the morning so he can check on his fields and give timely instructions to his workers or inspect his herds or flocks before breakfast, or he might take an early walk to visit his stables or barns to ensure that his previous directions are being followed.
The various accommodation appurtenant to the dwelling, makes ample provision for the household convenience of the family, and the main business of the farm may be at some distance, without inconvenience to the owner's every-day affairs. Consequently, the indulgence of a considerable degree of ornament may be given, in the surroundings of his dwelling, which the occupant of a less extensive estate would neither require, nor his circumstances warrant. A natural forest of stately trees, properly thinned out, is the most appropriate spot on which to build a house of this character. But that not at hand, it should be set off with plantations of forest trees, of the largest growth, as in keeping with its own liberal dimensions. A capacious kitchen garden should lead off from the rear apartments, well stocked with all the family vegetables, and culinary fruits, in their proper seasons. A luxuriant fruit-garden may flank the least frequented side of the house. Neat and tasteful flower beds may lie beneath the windows of the rooms appropriated to the leisure hours of the family, to which the smaller varieties of shrubbery may be added, separated from the chief lawn, or park, only by a wire fence, or a simple railing, such as not to cut up and checker its simple and dignified surface; and all these shut in on the rear from the adjoining fields of the farm by belts of large shrubbery 151 closely planted, or the larger orchards, thus giving it a style of its own, yet showing its connection with the pursuits of the farm and its dependence upon it.
The various features of the house make it convenient for the family, and the main farm activities can be far away without disrupting the owner's daily life. This allows for a good amount of decoration around the house, which someone with a smaller property wouldn’t need or be able to afford. A natural forest of tall trees, properly thinned, is the best place to build a house like this. If that’s not available, it should be surrounded by large trees that match its generous size. A spacious kitchen garden should extend from the back rooms, filled with seasonal vegetables and culinary fruits. A lush fruit garden could be on the less busy side of the house. Neat and attractive flower beds might be placed under the windows of the rooms used for family leisure, with smaller shrubs added, separated from the main lawn or park by a wire fence or simple railing that doesn’t disrupt the clean and dignified look of the area. All of this would be enclosed in the back by large shrubs or expansive orchards, giving the property a distinct style while showing its connection to the farm and its reliance on it. 151
These various appointments, however, may be either carried out or restricted, according to the requirements of the family occupying the estate, and the prevailing local taste of the vicinity in which it is situated; but no narrow or stingy spirit should be indicated in the general plan or in its execution. Every appointment connected with it should indicate a liberality of purpose in the founder, without which its effect is painfully marred to the eye of the man of true taste and judgment. Small yards, picketed in for small uses, have no business in sight of the grounds in front, and all minor concerns should be thrown into the rear, beyond observation from the main approach to the dwelling. The trees that shade the entrance park, or lawn, should be chiefly forest trees, as the oak, in its varieties, the elm, the maple, the chestnut, walnut, butternut, hickory, or beech. If the soil be favorable, a few weeping willows may throw their drooping spray around the house; and if exotic, or foreign trees be permitted, they should take their position in closer proximity to it than the natural forest trees, as indicating the higher care and cultivation which attaches to its presence. The Lombardy poplar, albeit a tree of disputed taste with modern planters, we would now and then throw in, not in stiff and formal rows, as guarding an avenue, but occasionally in the midst of a group of others, above which it should rise like a church spire from amidst a block of contiguous houses—a 152 cheerful relief to the monotony of the rounder-headed branches of the more spreading varieties. If a stream of water meander the park, or spread into a little pond, trees which are partial to moisture should shadow it at different points, and low, water shrubs should hang over its border, or even run into its margin. Aquatic herbs, too, may form a part of its ornaments, and a boat-house, if such a thing be necessary, should, under the shade of a hanging tree of some kind, be a conspicuous object in the picture. An overhanging rock, if such a thing be native there, may be an object of great attraction to its features, and its outlet may steal away and be hid in a dense mass of tangled vines and brushwood. The predominating, natural features of the place should be cultivated, not rooted out, and metamorphosed into something foreign and unfamiliar. It should, in short, be nature with her hair combed out straight, flowing, and graceful, instead of pinched, puffed, and curling—a thing of luxuriance and beauty under the hand of a master.
These various features can be arranged or limited based on the needs of the family living on the estate and the local style of the area where it’s located. However, the overall design and its execution shouldn’t show any stinginess or narrow-mindedness. Every element should reflect the generosity of the founder; otherwise, it detracts from the experience for those with true taste and judgment. Small yards, fenced off for minor purposes, should not be visible from the front of the property, and all smaller concerns should be moved to the back, out of sight from the main approach to the house. The trees that provide shade at the entrance park or lawn should primarily be native trees like oak (in its varieties), elm, maple, chestnut, walnut, butternut, hickory, or beech. If the soil is suitable, a few weeping willows can drape their branches around the house; and if non-native trees are allowed, they should be placed closer to the house than the native trees to show the extra care and cultivation that comes with their presence. The Lombardy poplar, a tree that some modern planters debate about, can occasionally be included—not in rigid, straight rows like a formal avenue, but amid a group of other trees, rising like a church spire above neighboring houses—a cheerful contrast to the rounder branches of the more spread-out varieties. If a stream winds through the park or expands into a pond, moisture-loving trees should provide shade at various points, and low shrubs should hang over the edge or even extend into the water. Water plants can also add to the scenery, and a boathouse, if needed, should be a noticeable part of the landscape under the shade of a hanging tree. A native overhanging rock might be an attractive feature, its outlet potentially hidden within a dense mass of tangled vines and brush. The natural features of the place should be enhanced, not removed and replaced with something foreign and strange. In short, it should be nature with her hair neatly styled—flowing and graceful—rather than pinched, puffed, and frizzed—a thing of richness and beauty under skilled care.
The great difficulty with many Americans in getting up a new place of any considerable extent is, that they seem to think whatever is common, or natural in the features of the spot must be so changed as to show, above all others, their own ingenuity and love of expense in fashioning it to their peculiar tastes. Rocks must be sunk, or blasted, trees felled, and bushes grubbed, crooked water-courses straightened—the place gibbeted and put into stocks; in fact, that their own boasted handiwork may rise superior to the wisdom of Him who fashioned it in his own good 153 pleasure; forgetting that a thousand points of natural beauty upon the earth on which they breathe are
The big challenge for many Americans when trying to develop a new area of any size is that they seem to believe that everything common or natural about the landscape needs to be altered to showcase their creativity and love for spending money on customizing it to their unique tastes. They feel the need to sink or blast rocks, cut down trees, remove bushes, and straighten crooked watercourses—the place must be transformed and controlled; in reality, their so-called handiwork should elevate itself above the wisdom of the one who created it in His own good way; forgetting that countless natural beauties around them are 153
"When unadorned, adorned the most;"
"When simple, shines the brightest;"
and our eye has been frequently shocked at finding the choicest gems of nature sacrificed to a wanton display of expense in perverting, to the indulgence of a mistaken fancy, that, which, with an eye to truth and propriety, and at a trifling expense, might have become a spot of abiding interest and contentment.
and we are often appalled to see the most beautiful parts of nature wasted on an unnecessary show of wealth to satisfy a misguided taste, when, with a focus on authenticity and appropriateness, and at a small cost, it could have become a place of lasting interest and happiness.
FARM HOUSE. Pages 155-156.
FARMHOUSE. Pages 155-156.
Design VI.
A Southern or Plantation House.—The proprietor of a plantation in the South, or South-west, requires altogether a different kind of residence from the farmer of the Northern, or Middle States. He resides in the midst of his own principality, surrounded by a retinue of dependents and laborers, who dwell distant and apart from his own immediate family, although composing a community requiring his daily care and superintendence for a great share of his time. A portion of them are the attachés of his household, yet so disconnected in their domestic relations, as to require a separate accommodation, and yet be in immediate contiguity with it, and of course, an arrangement of living widely different from those who mingle in the same circle, and partake at the same board.
A Southern plantation house.—The owner of a plantation in the South or Southwest needs a different type of home compared to farmers in the Northern or Middle States. He lives in the middle of his own territory, surrounded by a group of dependents and laborers, who live separately from his immediate family, even though they form a community that needs his attention and oversight for a significant part of his day. Some of them are part of his household staff, but their domestic arrangements are so separate that they require their own accommodations while still being close by. This creates a style of living that is very different from those who socialize in the same circle and share meals together.
The usual plan of house-building at the South, we are aware, is to have detached servants' rooms, and offices, and a space of some yards of uncovered way intervene between the family rooms of the chief dwelling and its immediate dependents. Such arrangement, however, we consider both unnecessary and inconvenient; and we have devised a plan of household accommodation which will bring the family of the planter himself, and their servants, although under 157 different roofs, into convenient proximity with each other. A design of this kind is here given.
The typical way of building houses in the South is to have detached servants' quarters and offices, with several yards of open space separating the main family rooms from its direct dependents. However, we find this setup both unnecessary and inconvenient; so, we’ve created a plan for household arrangements that allows the planter's family and their servants, even though they are in separate buildings, to be conveniently close to each other. A design of this kind is provided here. 157
The style is mainly Italian, plain, substantial, yet, we think, becoming. The broad veranda, stretching around three sides, including the front, gives an air of sheltered repose to what might otherwise appear an ambitious structure; and the connected apartments beyond, show a quiet utility which divests it of an over attempt at display. Nothing has been attempted for appearance, solely, beyond what is necessary and proper in the dwelling of a planter of good estate, who wants his domestic affairs well regulated, and his family, and servants duly provided with convenient accommodation. The form of the main dwelling is nearly square, upright, with two full stories, giving ample area of room and ventilation, together with that appropriate indulgence to ease which the enervating warmth of a southern climate renders necessary. The servants' apartments, and kitchen offices are so disposed, that while connected, to render them easy of access, they are sufficiently remote to shut off the familiarity of association which would render them obnoxious to the most fastidious—all, in fact, under one shelter, and within the readiest call. Such should be the construction of a planter's house in the United States, and such this design is intended to give.
The style is mainly Italian, simple, substantial, and yet, we think, appealing. The wide veranda that wraps around three sides, including the front, adds a feeling of sheltered relaxation to what might otherwise seem like an ambitious structure; and the connected apartments beyond show a quiet practicality that keeps it from appearing overly flashy. Nothing has been done just for show, only what is necessary and proper for the home of a successful planter who wants his household well-organized, with his family and staff comfortably accommodated. The main house is nearly square, tall, with two full stories, providing plenty of space and ventilation, along with the necessary comfort that the warm southern climate requires. The servants' quarters and kitchen are situated so that they are easily accessible but also far enough away to prevent the closeness that might make them unpleasant to the most particular—everything is indeed under one roof and within easy reach. This is how a planter's house in the United States should be constructed, and this design aims to achieve that.
A stable and carriage-house, in the same style, is near by, not connected to any part of the dwelling, as in the previous designs—with sufficient accommodation for coachman and grooms, and the number of saddle and carriage horses that may be required for 158 either business or pleasure; and to it may be connected, in the rear, in the same style of building, or plainer, and less expensive, further conveniences for such domestic animals as may be required for family use.
A stable and carriage house, designed in the same style, is nearby, not attached to the house like in the previous designs—providing enough space for the coachman and grooms, as well as the number of saddle and carriage horses needed for either work or leisure; and in the back of it, there can be additional facilities built in the same style or a simpler, less expensive design for any domestic animals needed for family use. 158
The whole stands in open grounds, and may be separated from each other by enclosures, as convenience or fancy may direct.
The entire area is set in open land and can be divided by fences, depending on what is convenient or appealing.
The roofs of all the buildings are broad and sweeping, well protecting the walls from storm and frosts, as well as the glaring influences of the sun, and combining that comfortable idea of shelter and repose so grateful in a well-conditioned country house. It is true, that the dwelling might be more extensive in room, and the purposes of luxury enlarged; but the planter on five hundred, or five thousand acres of land can here be sufficiently accommodated in all the reasonable indulgences of family enjoyment, and a liberal, even an elegant and prolonged hospitality, to which he is so generally inclined.
The roofs of all the buildings are wide and sloping, effectively shielding the walls from storms and frost, as well as the harsh rays of the sun, while creating that cozy feeling of shelter and relaxation that is so appreciated in a well-appointed country house. It's true that the home could have bigger rooms and more luxurious features, but a landowner with five hundred or five thousand acres can be comfortably accommodated here with all the reasonable comforts of family life, along with generous, even elegant, hospitality that he is typically drawn to.
The chimneys of this house, different from those in the previous designs, are placed next the outer walls, thus giving more space to the interior, and not being required, as in the others, to promote additional warmth than their fireplaces will give, to the rooms. A deck on the roof affords a pleasant look-out for the family from its top, guarded by a parapet, and giving a finish to its architectural appearance, and yet making no ambitious attempt at expensive ornament. It is, in fact, a plain, substantial, respectable mansion for a gentleman of good estate, and nothing beyond it.
The chimneys of this house, unlike those in previous designs, are positioned next to the outer walls, which creates more space inside. They don’t need to provide extra warmth like in the others, as the fireplaces will take care of that for the rooms. A deck on the roof offers a nice view for the family from the top, surrounded by a parapet, enhancing its architectural look without trying to be overly fancy. It truly is a simple, solid, respectable home for a well-off gentleman, and nothing more.
GROUND PLAN.
Floor plan.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
This house stands 50×40 feet on the ground. The front door opens from the veranda into a hall, 24×14 feet, in which is a flight of stairs leading to the chambers above. On the left a door leads into a library, or 160 business room, 17×17 feet, lighted by three windows. A fireplace is inserted in the outer wall. Another door leads into a side hall, six feet wide, which separates the library from the dining-room, which is also 17×17 feet in area, lighted and accommodated with a fireplace like the other, with a door leading into it from the side hall, and another door at the further right hand corner leading into the rear hall, or entry.
This house is 50×40 feet on the ground. The front door opens from the veranda into a hall that measures 24×14 feet, featuring a staircase that leads to the rooms above. On the left, a door opens into a library or office, which is 17×17 feet and has three windows for natural light. A fireplace is built into the outer wall. Another door leads into a six-foot-wide side hall that separates the library from the dining room, which is also 17×17 feet and is equipped with a fireplace like the library. There’s a door connecting the side hall to the dining room and another door at the far right corner that leads into the rear hall or entry.
On the right of the chief entrance hall, opposite the library, a door opens into the parlor or drawing-room, 23×19 feet in area, lighted by three windows, and having a fireplace in the side wall. A door leads from the rear side of the parlor into a commodious nursery, or family bedroom, 19×16 feet in size, lighted by a window in each outer wall. A fireplace is also inserted on the same line as in the parlor. From the nursery a door leads into and through a large closet, 9×7 feet, into the rear hall. This closet may also be used as a sleeping-room for the children, or a confidential servant-maid, or nurse, or devoted to the storage of bed-linen for family use. Further on, adjoining, is another closet, 7×6 feet, opening from the rear hall, and lighted by a window.
On the right side of the main entrance hall, across from the library, a door leads into the parlor or living room, which measures 23×19 feet. It's brightened by three windows and features a fireplace on one wall. A door from the back side of the parlor opens into a spacious nursery or family bedroom, measuring 19×16 feet, with a window on each outer wall. It also has a fireplace in line with the one in the parlor. From the nursery, a door goes into a large closet, 9×7 feet, leading to the back hall. This closet can also serve as a sleeping area for the kids, a private room for a maid or nurse, or be used for storing bed linens for the family. Next to it is another closet, 7×6 feet, accessible from the back hall and also has a window.
Leading from the outer door of the rear hall is a covered passage six feet wide, 16 feet long, and one and a half stories high, leading to the kitchen offices, and lighted by a window on the left, with a door opening in the same side beyond, on to the side front of the establishment. On the right, opposite, a door leads on to the kitchen porch, which is six feet wide, passing on to the bath-room and water-closet, in the 161 far rear. At the end of the connecting passage from the main dwelling, a door opens into the kitchen, which is 24×18 feet in size, accommodated with two windows looking on to the porch just described. At one end is an open fireplace with a cooking range on one side, and an oven on the other. At the left of the entrance door is a large, commodious store-room and pantry, 12×9 feet, lighted by a window; and adjoining it, (and may be connected with it by a door, if necessary,) a kitchen closet of the same size, also connected by a corresponding door from the opposite corner of the kitchen. Between these doors is a flight of stairs leading to the sleeping-rooms above, and a cellar passage beneath them. In the farther right corner of the kitchen a door leads into a smaller closet, 8×6 feet, lighted by a small window looking on to the rear porch at the end. A door at the rear of the kitchen leads out into the porch of the wash-room beyond, which is six feet wide, and another door into the wash-room itself, which is 20×16 feet, and furnished with a chimney and boilers. A window looks out on the extreme right hand, and two windows on to the porch in front. A door opens from its rear wall into the wood-house, 32×12 feet, which stands open on two sides, supported by posts, and under the extended roof of the wash-room and its porch just mentioned. A servants' water-closet is attached to the extreme right corner of the wood-house, by way of lean-to.
Leading from the outer door of the back hall is a covered passage that is six feet wide, 16 feet long, and one and a half stories high, leading to the kitchen areas, and lit by a window on the left, with a door opening on that side beyond, leading to the side front of the building. On the right, across from it, a door opens to the kitchen porch, which is six feet wide, continuing to the bathroom and water closet in the far back. At the end of the connecting passage from the main house, a door opens into the kitchen, which is 24 by 18 feet, equipped with two windows facing the porch just mentioned. At one end is an open fireplace with a cooking range on one side and an oven on the other. To the left of the entrance door is a large, spacious pantry and storeroom, 12 by 9 feet, lit by a window; and next to it, (which can be connected by a door if needed,) a kitchen closet of the same size, also accessible via a corresponding door from the opposite corner of the kitchen. Between these doors is a staircase leading to the bedrooms above and a cellar passage beneath. In the far right corner of the kitchen, a door opens into a smaller closet, 8 by 6 feet, lit by a small window looking out onto the rear porch at the end. A door at the back of the kitchen leads out to the porch of the washroom beyond, which is six feet wide, and another door opens into the washroom itself, which is 20 by 16 feet and equipped with a chimney and boilers. A window looks out on the extreme right, and there are two windows facing the porch in front. A door opens from its back wall into the woodhouse, which is 32 by 12 feet, open on two sides, supported by posts, and under the extended roof of the washroom and its aforementioned porch. A servants' water closet is attached to the far right corner of the woodhouse, as a lean-to.
The bath-room is 10×6 feet in area, and supplied with water from the kitchen boilers adjoining. The water-closet beyond is 6 feet square, and architecturally, 162 in its roof, may be made a fitting termination to that of the porch leading to it.
The bathroom is 10×6 feet, and it gets water from the kitchen boilers next to it. The toilet beyond is 6 feet square, and architecturally, 162 its roof can be a nice finish to the one over the porch leading to it.
CHAMBER PLAN.
CHAMBER PLAN.
The main flight of stairs in the entrance hall leads on to a broad landing in the spacious upper hall, from which doors pass into the several chambers, which may be duly accommodated with closets. The passage connecting with the upper story of the servants' offices, opens from the rear section of this upper hall, and by the flight of rear stairs communicates with the kitchen and out-buildings. A garret flight of steps may be made in the rear section of the main upper hall, by which that apartment may be reached, and the upper deck of the roof ascended.
The main staircase in the entrance hall leads to a wide landing in the large upper hall, from which doors open into various rooms that can be equipped with closets. The hallway that connects to the upper floor of the servants' quarters extends from the back part of this upper hall, and there's a rear staircase that connects to the kitchen and outbuildings. A set of stairs can be added in the back section of the main upper hall, allowing access to that area and to the upper level of the roof.
The sleeping-rooms of the kitchen may be divided off as convenience may dictate, and the entire structure thus appropriated to every accommodation which a well-regulated family need require.
The sleeping areas of the kitchen can be separated as needed, and the whole space can be arranged for all the conveniences a well-organized family might need.
The carriage-house is 48×24 feet in size, with a projection of five feet on the entrance front, the door of which leads both into the carriage-room and stables. On the right is a bedroom, 10×8 feet, for the grooms, lighted by a window; and beyond are six stalls for horses, with a window in the rear wall beyond them. A flight of stairs leads to the hayloft above. In the rear of the carriage-room is a harness-room, 12×4 feet, and a granary of the same size, each lighted by a window. If farther attachments be required for the accommodation of out-building conveniences, they may be continued indefinitely in the rear.
The carriage house is 48×24 feet, with a five-foot extension on the entrance side. The door leads to both the carriage room and the stables. On the right is a bedroom for the grooms, measuring 10×8 feet, with a window for light; beyond that are six horse stalls, which have a window in the back wall. A staircase goes up to the hayloft above. At the back of the carriage room, there's a harness room, 12×4 feet, and a granary of the same size, both equipped with windows. If more space is needed for additional outbuilding facilities, they can be added indefinitely at the back.
MISCELLANEOUS.
It may strike the reader that the house just described has a lavish appropriation of veranda, and a needless side-front, which latter may detract from the precise architectural keeping that a dwelling of this pretension should maintain. In regard to the first, it may be remarked, that no feature of the house in a southern climate can be more expressive of easy, comfortable 164 enjoyment, than a spacious veranda. The habits of southern life demand it as a place of exercise in wet weather, and the cooler seasons of the year, as well as a place of recreation and social intercourse during the fervid heats of the summer. Indeed, many southern people almost live under the shade of their verandas. It is a delightful place to take their meals, to receive their visitors and friends; and the veranda gives to a dwelling the very expression of hospitality, so far as any one feature of a dwelling can do it. No equal amount of accommodation can be provided for the same cost. It adds infinitely to the room of the house itself, and is, in fact, indispensable to the full enjoyment of a southern house.
It might occur to the reader that the house described has an extravagant veranda and an unnecessary side-front, which could detract from the precise architectural style that a house of this stature should uphold. Regarding the veranda, it’s worth mentioning that no element of a house in a southern climate is more representative of relaxed, comfortable enjoyment than a spacious veranda. The lifestyle in the South requires it as a place to exercise during wet weather and the cooler seasons, as well as a spot for recreation and socializing during the intense heat of summer. In fact, many southern residents almost live under the shade of their verandas. It's a lovely spot for meals, hosting visitors and friends; and the veranda conveys the essence of hospitality to a home, as much as any single feature can. No other space can offer the same level of accommodation for the cost. It greatly enhances the room of the house itself and is, in fact, essential for fully enjoying a southern home.
The side front in this design is simply a matter of convenience to the owner and occupant of the estate, who has usually much office business in its management; and in the almost daily use of his library, where such business may be done, a side door and front is both appropriate and convenient. The chief front entrance belongs to his family and guests, and should be devoted to their exclusive use; and as a light fence may be thrown off from the extreme end of the side porch, separating the front lawn from the rear approach to the house, the veranda on that side may be reached from its rear end, for business purposes, without intruding upon the lawn at all. So we would arrange it.
The side front in this design is just about making things easier for the owner and the people living in the estate, who usually handle a lot of office business in managing it. Since they often use their library for such work, having a side door and front is both suitable and practical. The main front entrance is meant for the family and their guests, and should be reserved for their private use. A low fence can be placed at the far end of the side porch, separating the front lawn from the rear access to the house. The veranda on that side can be accessed from its back end for business purposes without disrupting the lawn at all. That's how we would set it up.
Objections may be made to the sameness of plan, in the arrangement of the lower rooms of the several designs which we have submitted, such as having the nursery, or family sleeping-room, on the main floor of 165 the house, and the uniformity, in location, of the others; and that there are no new and striking features in them. The answer to these may be, that the room appropriated for the nursery, or bedroom, may be used for other purposes, equally as well; that when a mode of accommodation is already as convenient as may be, it is poorly worth while to make it less convenient, merely for the sake of variety; and, that utility and convenience are the main objects to be attained in any well-ordered dwelling. These two requisites, utility and convenience, attained, the third and principal one—comfort—is secured. Cellar kitchens—the most abominable nuisances that ever crept into a country dwelling—might have been adopted, no doubt, to the especial delight of some who know nothing of the experimental duties of housekeeping; but the recommendation of these is an offence which we have no stomach to answer for hereafter. Steep, winding, and complicated staircases might have given a new feature to one or another of the designs; dark closets, intricate passages, unique cubby-holes, and all sorts of inside gimcrackery might have amused our pencil; but we have avoided them, as well as everything which would stand in the way of the simplest, cheapest, and most direct mode of reaching the object in view: a convenient, comfortably-arranged dwelling within, having a respectable, dignified appearance without—and such, we trust, have been thus far presented in our designs.
Objections might be raised about the sameness of the layout in the lower rooms of the different designs we've submitted, such as having the nursery or family bedroom on the main floor of the house, and the uniform placement of the other rooms; some might say that there are no new or striking features in them. The response to these concerns could be that the room designated for the nursery or bedroom can also serve other purposes just as well; that when a method of accommodation is already as convenient as it can be, it isn’t worth making it less convenient just for the sake of variety; and that utility and convenience are the primary goals of any well-designed home. Once these two requirements—utility and convenience—are met, the third and most important one—comfort—is also achieved. Cellar kitchens—the most dreadful nuisances to ever enter a country home—might have been chosen, surely to the delight of some who know nothing about the practical aspects of housekeeping; however, we have no desire to justify that choice in the future. Steep, winding, and complicated staircases could have added a unique touch to some designs; dark closets, convoluted passages, quirky nooks, and various inside gimmicks might have caught our fancy; but we have steered clear of these, as well as anything that would complicate the simplest, most cost-effective, and direct way to achieve our goal: a convenient, comfortably arranged home inside, with a respectable, dignified look on the outside—and we hope that is what we have presented so far in our designs.
LAWN, AND PARK SURROUNDINGS.
The trees and shrubbery which ornament the approach to this house, should be rather of the graceful varieties, than otherwise. The weeping-willow, the horse-chesnut, the mountain-ash, if suitable to the climate; or the china-tree of the south, or the linden, the weeping-elm, and the silver-maple, with its long slender branches and hanging leaves, would add most to the beauty, and comport more closely with the character of this establishment, than the more upright, stiff, and unbending trees of our American forests. The Lombardy-poplar—albeit, an object of fashionable derision with many tree-fanciers in these more tasty days, as it was equally the admiration of our fathers, of forty years ago—would set off and give effect to a mansion of this character, either in a clump at the back-ground, as shown in the design, or occasionally shooting up its spire-like top through a group of the other trees. Yet, if built in a fine natural park or lawn of oaks, with a few other trees, such as we have named, planted immediately around it, this house would still show with fine effect.
The trees and shrubs that decorate the approach to this house should be more on the graceful side rather than otherwise. The weeping willow, horse chestnut, and mountain ash, if suitable for the climate, or the southern china tree, linden, weeping elm, and silver maple with its long, slender branches and hanging leaves would enhance the beauty and fit better with the character of this place than the more upright, rigid, and unyielding trees found in our American forests. The Lombardy poplar—though it is often the target of ridicule among many tree enthusiasts these days, just as it was admired by our fathers forty years ago—would complement and enhance a mansion like this, either in a cluster in the background as shown in the design, or occasionally extending its spire-like top among other trees. Yet, if set in a lovely natural park or lawn of oaks, with a few of the other trees we’ve mentioned planted around it, this house would still look impressive.
The style of finish given to this dwelling may appear too ornate and expensive for the position it is supposed to occupy. If so, a plainer mode of finish may be adopted, to the cheapest degree consistent with the manner of its construction. Still, on examination, there will be found little intricate or really expensive work upon it. Strength, substance, durability, should all enter into its composition; and without these elements, 167 a house of this appearance is a mere bauble, not fit to stand upon the premises of any man of substantial estate.
The finish of this house might seem too fancy and costly for its intended location. If that's the case, a simpler finish can be used, as inexpensive as possible while still matching the way it's built. However, if you take a closer look, you’ll find very little intricate or genuinely pricey work involved. Strength, substance, and durability should all be part of its design; without these elements, 167 a house that looks like this is just a decoration, not suitable for the property of any serious homeowner.
If a more extensive accommodation be necessary, than the size of this house can afford, its style will admit of a wing, of any desirable length, on each side, in place of the rear part of the side verandas, without prejudice to its character or effect. Indeed, such wings may add to its dignity, and consequence, as comporting with the standing and influence which its occupant may hold in the community wherein he resides. A man of mark, indeed, should, if he live in the country, occupy a dwelling somewhat indicating the position which he holds, both in society and in public affairs. By this remark, we may be treading on questionable ground, in our democratic country; but, practically, there is a fitness in it which no one can dispute. Not that extravagance, pretension, or any other assumption of superiority should mark the dwelling of the distinguished man, but that his dwelling be of like character with himself: plain, dignified, solid, and, as a matter of course, altogether respectable.
If a larger accommodation is needed than what this house can provide, its style allows for a wing of any desired length on each side in place of the back part of the side verandas, without compromising its character or appearance. In fact, such wings might enhance its dignity and significance, reflecting the standing and influence of its occupant in the community where he lives. A notable man, especially if he lives in the countryside, should have a home that somewhat reflects the position he holds in society and public affairs. This observation might tread on shaky ground in our democratic country, but practically, it’s a truth that’s hard to dispute. This isn’t to say that the homes of distinguished individuals should showcase extravagance, pretentiousness, or any other display of superiority, but rather that their home reflects their character: simple, dignified, sturdy, and, naturally, entirely respectable.
It is a happy feature in the composition of our republican institutions, both social and political, that we can afford to let the flashy men of the day—not of time—flaunter in all their purchased fancy in house-building, without prejudice to the prevailing sober sentiment of their neighbors, in such particulars. The man of money, simply, may build his "villa," and squander his tens of thousands upon it. He may riot within it, and fidget about it for a few brief years; he may even 168 hang his coat of arms upon it, if he can fortunately do so without stumbling over a lapstone, or greasing his coat against the pans of a cook-shop; but it is equally sure that no child of his will occupy it after him, even if his own changeable fancy or circumstances permit him to retain it for his natural life. Such are the episodes of country house-building, and of frequent attempts at agricultural life, by those who affect it as a matter of ostentation or display. For the subjects of these, we do not write. But there is something exceedingly grateful to the feelings of one of stable views in life, to look upon an estate which has been long in an individual family, still maintaining its primitive character and respectability. Some five-and-twenty years ago, when too young to have any established opinions in matters of this sort, as we were driving through one of the old farming towns in Massachusetts, about twenty miles west of Boston, we approached a comfortable, well-conditioned farm, with a tavern-house upon the high road, and several great elms standing about it. The road passed between two of the trees, and from a cross-beam, lodged across their branches, swung a large square sign, with names and dates painted upon it—name and date we have forgotten; it was a good old Puritan name, however—in this wise:
It’s a great aspect of our republican institutions, both social and political, that we can allow the flashy people of the day—not of time—to show off all their bought extravagance in home-building, without affecting the sensible attitudes of their neighbors about such things. The wealthy person can build his "villa" and spend tens of thousands on it. He can party inside and fuss around it for a few short years; he might even hang his coat of arms on it, if he can manage to do so without stumbling over a cobbler's tools or getting his coat dirty against a restaurant's pots; but it’s just as certain that none of his children will live there after him, even if his own changing tastes or situation allow him to keep it for his life. These are the stories of country house-building and the frequent attempts at rural living by those who do it for show or pretentiousness. We don’t write about these subjects. But there’s something really satisfying for someone with stable views in life to see an estate that has been in one family for a long time, still keeping its original character and respectability. Some five-and-twenty years ago, when we were too young to have any solid opinions on this kind of thing, we were driving through one of the old farming towns in Massachusetts, about twenty miles west of Boston, and we came across a nice, well-kept farm, with a tavern on the main road and several big elms around it. The road went between two of the trees, and from a cross-beam hanging across their branches swung a large square sign with names and dates painted on it—names and dates we've forgotten; it was a good old Puritan name, though—in this way:
"John Endicott, 1652."
"John Endicott, 1696."
"John Endicott, 1749."
"John Endicott, 1784."
"John Endicott, 1817."
"John Endicott, 1652."
"John Endicott, 1696."
"John Endicott, 1749."
"John Endicott, 1784."
"John Endicott, 1817."
169 As our eyes read over this list, we were struck with the stability of a family who for many consecutive generations had occupied, by the same name, that venerable spot, and ministered to the comfort of as many generations of travelers, and incontinently took off our hat in respect to the record of so much worth, drove our horse under the shed, had him fed, went in, and took a quiet family dinner with the civil, good-tempered host, and the equally kind-mannered hostess, then in the prime of life, surrounded with a fine family of children, and heard from his own lips the history of his ancestors, from their first emigration from England—not in the Mayflower, to whose immeasurable accommodations our good New England ancestors are so prone to refer—but in one of her early successors.
169 As we looked over this list, we were impressed by the stability of a family that had occupied, under the same name, that historic location for many generations and had taken care of so many travelers. We instinctively took off our hats in respect for such a remarkable legacy, drove our horse under the shed, had him fed, went inside, and enjoyed a quiet family dinner with the polite, good-natured host and the equally kind hostess, both in their prime and surrounded by a lovely family of children. We heard from the host himself the story of his ancestors, beginning with their first migration from England—not on the Mayflower, which our good New England ancestors tend to reference—but on one of her early successors.
All over the old thirteen states, from Maine to Georgia, can be found agricultural estates now containing families, the descendants of those who founded them—exceptions to the general rule, we admit, of American stability of residence, but none the less gratifying to the contemplation of those who respect a deep love of home, wherever it may be found. For the moral of our episode on this subject, we cannot refrain from a description of a fine old estate which we have frequently seen, minus now the buildings which then existed, and long since supplanted by others equally respectable and commodious, and erected by the successor of the original occupant, the late Dr. Boylston, of Roxbury, who long made the farm his summer residence. The description is from an old work, "The History of the County of Worcester, in the 170 State of Massachusetts, by the Rev. Peter Whitney, 1793:"
All across the original thirteen states, from Maine to Georgia, you can find farms that now have families living on them, descendants of those who established them—exceptions to the usual trend of American settling down, but still pleasing to those who value a strong sense of home, no matter where it is. For the purpose of our discussion on this topic, we can't help but describe a beautiful old estate that we have often visited, although it no longer has the same buildings that used to be there. Those have long been replaced by others that are just as respectable and comfortable, built by the successor of the original owner, the late Dr. Boylston of Roxbury, who often used the farm as his summer home. The description is from an old work, "The History of the County of Worcester, in the 170 State of Massachusetts, by the Rev. Peter Whitney, 1793:"
"Many of the houses in Princeton are large and elegant. Notably, this town is home to the estate of the Hon. Moses Gill, Esq. ('Honorable' held significance back then), who has been one of the Judges of the Court of Common Pleas for Worcester County since 1775 and has also served as a counselor for this commonwealth for several years. His impressive estate is located about a mile and a quarter south of the meeting house. The farm spans over three thousand acres. The county road from Princeton to Worcester runs in front of the house, which faces west. The buildings sit on the highest part of the entire farm, but the area around them is level for many yards before there is a slight descent. According to the Hon. James Winthrop, Esq., the land on which these buildings stand is between twelve hundred and thirteen hundred feet above sea level. The mansion itself is large, measuring 50 by 50 feet, and has four chimney stacks. The farmhouse measures 40 by 36 feet. In line with this is the coach and chaise house, which is 50 by 36 feet. This is connected to the barn by a 70-foot shed; the barn measures 200 by 32 feet. Elegant fences are built around the mansion, the outbuildings, and the garden.
"The view from this seat is vast and impressive, stretching at least seventy miles to the east. You can see the blue hills in Milton from the windows of this magnificent building, located around sixty miles away, as well as the waters of Boston Harbor during certain seasons. When we look at this seat, these buildings, and this farm that spans hundreds of acres, all of which are now highly productive, and remember that in 1766 it was just a wilderness, we can't help but feel wonder, admiration, and astonishment. The honorable owner must take great pleasure in seeing these extensive improvements made under his guidance, and I might add, through his own hard work. Judge Gill is a man of remarkable energy and diligence, tirelessly working to advance the cultivation of his lands. He provides great and essential service by employing so many people, actively serving the interests of his community, and through his private generosity and public contributions. He deserves great respect and admiration not just from individuals, but also from the town and country he has helped so much, especially for how he utilizes the vast estate that Providence has generously given him."
Such was the estate, and such the man who founded and enjoyed it sixty years ago; and many an equal estate, founded and occupied by equally valuable men, then existed, and still exist in all our older states; and if our private and public virtues are preserved, will ever exist in every state of our union. Such pictures, too, are forcible illustrations of the morals of correct building on the ample estates of many of our American 172 planters and farmers. The mansion house, which is so graphically described, we saw but a short time before it was pulled down—then old, and hardly worth repairing, being built of wood, and of style something like this design of our own, bating the extent of veranda.
This was the estate, and this was the man who established and enjoyed it sixty years ago; many similar estates, founded and occupied by equally important individuals, existed then and still exist in all our older states. If we maintain our private and public virtues, they will always exist in every state of our union. These scenes also serve as powerful examples of the **morals** of proper building on the extensive properties of many of our American planters and farmers. The mansion, which is described so vividly, was seen just before it was demolished—old and hardly worth fixing, built of wood and having a style somewhat like our own design, minus the size of the veranda. 172
The cost of this house may be from $5000 to $8000, depending upon the material of which it is constructed, the degree of finish given to it, and the locality where it is built. All these circumstances are to be considered, and the estimates should be made by practical and experienced builders, who are competent judges in whatever appertains to it.
The cost of this house can range from $5,000 to $8,000, depending on the materials used, the level of finish applied, and the location where it's built. All these factors need to be taken into account, and the estimates should be made by skilled and experienced builders who are knowledgeable about everything related to it.
FARM HOUSE. Pages 173-174.
FARMHOUSE. Pages 173-174.
Design VII.
A Plantation House.—Another southern house is here presented, quite different in architectural design from the last, plain, unpretending, less ornate in its finish, as well as less expensive in construction. It may occupy a different site, in a hilly, wooded country of rougher surface, but equally becoming it, as the other would more fitly grace the level prairie, or spreading plain in the more showy luxury of its character.
A plantation home.—Here’s another southern house, quite different in architectural design from the last one. It’s simple, unpretentious, and less ornate in its finish, as well as cheaper to build. It might be located in a hilly, wooded area with a rougher landscape, but it suits the surroundings just as well, while the other would be more suitable for the flat prairie or expansive plain in its more lavish style.
This house stands 46×44 feet on the ground, two stories high, with a full length veranda, 10 feet wide in front, and a half length one above it, connecting with the main roof by an open gable, under which is a railed gallery for summer repose or recreation, or to enjoy the scenery upon which it may open. The roof is broad and overhanging, thoroughly sheltering the walls, and giving it a most protected, comfortable look. Covering half the rear is a lean-to, with shed roof, 16 feet wide, communicating with the servants' offices in the wing, the hall of which opens upon a low veranda on its front, and leading to the minor conveniences of the establishment. The main servants' building is 30×20 feet, one and a half stories high, with a roof in keeping with the main dwelling, and a chimney in 176 the center. In rear of this is attached a wood-house, with a shed roof, thus sloping off, and giving it a reposed, quiet air from that point of view. A narrow porch, 23 feet long and 8 feet wide, also shades the remaining rear part of the main dwelling, opening on to the approach in rear.
This house measures 46×44 feet on the ground and stands two stories high, featuring a full-length veranda that's 10 feet wide in the front and a half-length one above it, connecting to the main roof through an open gable. Under this gable is a railed balcony for summer relaxation or recreation, allowing enjoyment of the views it faces. The roof is broad and overhanging, providing ample shelter to the walls and giving the house a protected, comfortable appearance. Covering half of the back is a lean-to with a shed roof, 16 feet wide, connecting to the servants' quarters in the wing. The hall in this wing opens onto a low veranda in front, leading to the essential conveniences of the home. The main servants' building is 30×20 feet, one and a half stories high, with a roof that matches the main house and a chimney in the center. Attached to the back is a wood-house with a shed roof that slopes off, creating a calm and quiet atmosphere from that angle. A narrow porch, 23 feet long and 8 feet wide, also shades the remaining back part of the main house, opening onto the approach at the rear.
GROUND PLAN
FLOOR PLAN
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
The front door opens into a hall 34 feet long and 10 feet wide, with a flight of stairs. On the left of this opens a parlor or dining-room, 22×18 feet, lighted by two windows in front and one on the side, and connecting with the dining-room beyond, which is 18×16 feet, with two small dining closets between. The dining-room has two windows opening on to the rear veranda. Under the cross flight of stairs in the hall, a partition separates it from the rear hall, into which is a door. On the right of the entrance hall is a library, 18×18 feet, lighted by three windows. At the farther end is a closet, and by the side of it a small entry leading into the nursery or family bedroom, 18×15 feet in size, which also has a corresponding closet with the library. On the rear of the nursery is a flight of back stairs opening from it. Under these stairs, at the other end, a door opens to another flight leading into the cellar below. A door also leads out from the nursery into the rear passage, to the offices; another door on the further side of the room opens into the rear hall of the house. The nursery should have two windows, but 177 the drawing, by an error, gives only one. From this rear hall a door opens on the rear veranda, and another into the passage to the rear offices. This passage is six feet wide and 34 feet long, opening at its left end on to the veranda, and on the right, to the servants' porch, and from its rear side into three small rooms, 10 feet square each, the outer one of which may be a business room for the proprietor of the estate; the next, a store-room for family supplies; and the other a kitchen closet. Each of these is lighted by a window on the rear. A door also leads from the 178 rear passage into the kitchen, 20×16 feet in area, with a window looking out in front and two others on the side and rear, and a door into the wood-house. In this is placed a large chimney for the cooking establishment, oven, &c., &c. A flight of stairs and partition divides this from the wash-room, which is 14×14 feet, with two windows in the side, and a door into the wood-house. This wood-house is open on two sides, and a water-closet is in the far corner. The small veranda, which is six feet wide, fronting the kitchen apartments, opens into the bath-room, 9×6 feet, into which the water is drawn from the kitchen boilers in the adjoining chimney. Still beyond this is the entrance to the water-closets, 6×5 feet.
The front door opens into a hall that is 34 feet long and 10 feet wide, featuring a flight of stairs. To the left is a parlor or dining room measuring 22×18 feet, lit by two windows in the front and one on the side. This room connects to the dining room beyond, which is 18×16 feet, with two small dining closets in between. The dining room has two windows that lead out to the rear veranda. Below the cross flight of stairs in the hall, a partition separates it from the rear hall, which has a door leading into it. On the right side of the entrance hall is a library, 18×18 feet, illuminated by three windows. At the far end is a closet, and next to it is a small entryway leading into the nursery or family bedroom, measuring 18×15 feet, which also has a closet similar to the library’s. At the back of the nursery, there’s a flight of back stairs leading from it. Under these stairs, a door opens to another flight that goes down to the cellar below. Another door leads from the nursery to the rear passage, which connects to the offices; and an additional door on the opposite side of the room opens to the rear hall of the house. The nursery is supposed to have two windows, but the drawing mistakenly shows only one. From this rear hall, a door opens onto the rear veranda, and another leads into the passage to the back offices. This passage is six feet wide and 34 feet long, opening on the left side to the veranda and on the right to the servants' porch. The rear side leads into three small rooms, each measuring 10 feet square, with the outermost potentially serving as a business room for the estate owner; the next as a storage room for family supplies; and the last as a kitchen closet. Each of these rooms has a window facing the rear. A door also connects the rear passage to the kitchen, which is 20×16 feet, featuring a window looking out in front and two additional windows on the side and rear, plus a door leading to the wood-house. A large chimney for the cooking setup, including the oven, is located here. A flight of stairs and a partition separate this from the washroom, which is 14×14 feet, having two windows on the side and a door into the wood-house. The wood-house is open on two sides, with a water-closet situated in the far corner. The small veranda, six feet wide, in front of the kitchen areas opens into the bathroom, which measures 9×6 feet, where water is drawn from the kitchen boilers in the adjacent chimney. Further beyond this is the entrance to the water-closets, measuring 6×5 feet.
The chamber plan is simple, and will be readily comprehended. If more rooms are desirable, they can be cut off from the larger ones. A flight of garret stairs may also be put in the rear chamber hall. The 179 main hall of the chambers, in connection with the upper veranda, may be made a delightful resort for the summer, where the leisure hours of the family may be passed in view of the scenery which the house may command, and thus made one of its most attractive features.
The layout of the rooms is straightforward and easy to understand. If you want more rooms, you can separate them from the larger ones. A set of stairs to the attic can also be added to the back hallway. The main hall of the rooms, along with the upper porch, can be turned into a lovely summer getaway, allowing the family to spend their free time enjoying the view of the surrounding landscape, making it one of the house's most appealing aspects.
MISCELLANEOUS.
We have given less veranda to this house than to the last, because its style does not require it, and it is a cheaper and less pains-taking establishment throughout, although, perhaps, quite as convenient in its arrangement as the other. The veranda may, however, be continued round the two ends of the house, if required. A screen, or belt of privet, or low evergreens may be planted in a circular form from the front right-hand corner of the dwelling, to the corresponding corner of the rear offices, enclosing a clothes drying yard, and cutting them off from too sightly an exposure from the lawn in front. The opposite end of the house, which may be termed its business front, may open to the every-day approach to the house, and be treated as convenience may determine.
We’ve added less porch space to this house than the last one because its design doesn’t need it, and it’s a more affordable and less intricate place overall, although it might be just as convenient in its layout as the previous one. However, the porch can be extended around both ends of the house if needed. A screen or a row of privet or low evergreen plants can be planted in a circular shape from the front right corner of the house to the matching corner of the back buildings, creating an enclosed area for drying clothes and shielding it from too much visibility from the lawn in front. The other end of the house, which we can call its business front, can open up to the everyday path to the house and can be designed based on convenience.
For the tree decoration of this establishment, evergreens may come in for a share of attraction. Their conical, tapering points will correspond well with its general architecture, and add strikingly to its effect; otherwise the remarks already given on the subject of park and lawn plantation will suffice. As, however, in the position where this establishment is supposed to 180 be erected, land is plenty, ample area should be appropriated to its convenience, and no pinched or parsimonious spirit should detract from giving it the fullest effect in an allowance of ground. Nor need the ground devoted to such purposes be at all lost, or unappropriated; various uses can be made of it, yielding both pleasure and profit, to which a future chapter will refer; and it is one of the chief pleasures of retired residence to cultivate, in the right place, such incidental objects of interest as tend to gratify, as well as to instruct, in whatever appertains to the elevation of our thoughts, and the improvement of our condition. All these, in their place, should be drawn about our dwellings, to render them as agreeable and attractive as our ingenuity and labor may command.
For the tree decoration of this establishment, evergreens can definitely add to its appeal. Their conical, tapering tops will complement the overall architecture and enhance its impact; otherwise, the comments previously mentioned about park and lawn planting will suffice. However, since this establishment is supposed to be built in an area with plenty of land, a generous amount of space should be allocated for its convenience, and a stingy or limited approach should not lessen its full potential in terms of available ground. The land set aside for these purposes doesn't have to go to waste; it can be used in various ways that provide both enjoyment and profit, which will be discussed in a future chapter. One of the main joys of living in a secluded area is to cultivate, in the right setting, interesting features that not only please the eye but also educate us, enriching our thoughts and improving our situation. All of these should be arranged around our homes to make them as pleasant and inviting as our creativity and effort can achieve.
LAWNS, GROUNDS, PARKS, AND WOODS.
Having essayed to instruct our agricultural friends in the proper modes of erecting their houses, and providing for their convenient accommodation within them, a few remarks may be pardoned touching such collateral subjects of embellishment as may be connected with the farm residence in the way of plantations and grounds in their immediate vicinity.
Having tried to guide our farming friends on how to build their homes and make them comfortable, a few comments on related topics like landscaping and the areas around the farmhouses might be acceptable.
We are well aware that small farms do not permit any considerable appropriation of ground to waste purposes, as such spots are usually called which are occupied with wood, or the shade of open trees, near the dwelling. But no dwelling can be complete in all its appointments without trees in its immediate vicinity. This subject has perhaps been sufficiently discussed in preceding chapters; yet, as a closing course of remark upon what a farm house, greater or less in extent, should be in the amount of shade given to it, a further suggestion or two may be permitted. There are, in almost all places, in the vicinity of the dwelling, portions of ground which can be appropriated to forest trees without detriment to other economical uses, if applied in the proper way. Any one who passes along 182 a high road and discovers the farm house, seated on the margin or in the immediate vicinity of a pleasant grove, is immediately struck with the peculiarly rural and picturesque air which it presents, and thinks to himself that he should love such a spot for his own home, without reflecting that he might equally as well create one of the same character. Sites already occupied, where different dispositions are made of contiguous ground, may not admit of like advantages; and such are to be continued in their present arrangement, with such course of improvement as their circumstances will admit. But to such as are about to select the sites of their future homes, it is important to study what can best embellish them in the most effective shade and ornament.
We know that small farms don’t allow for a lot of land to be used for waste purposes, which usually refers to areas taken up by woods or the shade of trees near the house. However, no home is truly complete without trees nearby. This topic has likely been covered enough in earlier chapters, but as a final thought on how much shade a farmhouse—big or small—should have, a few more suggestions can be made. In most places, there are areas around the house that can be used for planting trees without harming other productive uses, if handled correctly. Anyone traveling down a main road who sees a farmhouse next to a nice grove is often struck by the beautiful, rural vibe it gives off, and thinks about how much they would love a similar place as their own home, without realizing they could create such a setting themselves. For those who have already chosen sites where the land is arranged differently, sticking with the current layout and making improvements based on their specific circumstances might be necessary. But for those looking to select locations for their future homes, it’s essential to consider what will best enhance their spaces with effective shade and beauty.
In the immediate vicinity of our large towns and cities it is seldom possible to appropriate any considerable breadth of land to ornamental purposes, excepting rough and unsightly waste ground, more or less occupied with rock or swamp; or plainer tracts, so sterile as to be comparatively worthless for cultivation. Such grounds, too, often lie bare of wood, and require planting, and a course of years to cover them with trees, even if the proprietor is willing, or desirous to devote them to such purpose. Still, there are vast sections of our country where to economize land is not important, and a mixed occupation of it to both ornament and profit may be indulged to the extent of the owner's disposition. All over the United States there are grand and beautiful sweeps and belts of cultivated country, interspersed with finely-wooded tracts, which 183 offer the most attractive sites for the erection of dwellings on the farms which embrace them, and that require only the eye and hand of taste to convert them, with slight labor, into the finest-wooded lawns and forested parks imaginable. No country whatever produces finer trees than North America. The evergreens of the north luxuriate in a grandeur scarcely known elsewhere, and shoot their cones into the sky to an extent that the stripling pines and firs, and larches of England in vain may strive to imitate. The elm of New England towers up, and spreads out its sweeping arms with a majesty unwonted in the ancient parks or forests of Europe; while its maples, and birches, and beeches, and ashes, and oaks, and the great white-armed buttonwood, make up a variety of intervening growth, luxuriant in the extreme. Pass on through the Middle States, and into the far west, and there they still flourish with additional kinds—the tulip and poplar—the nut-trees, in all their wide variety, with a host of others equally grand and imposing, interspersed; and shrub-trees innumerable, are seen every where as they sweep along your path. Beyond the Alleghanies, and south of the great lakes, are vast natural parks, many of them enclosed, and dotted with herds of cattle ranging over them, which will show single trees, and clumps of forest that William the Conqueror would have given a whole fiefdom in his Hampshire spoliations to possess; while, stretching away toward the Gulf of Mexico, new varieties of tree are found, equally imposing, grand, and beautiful, throughout the whole vast range, and in almost every 184 locality, susceptible of the finest possible appropriation to ornament and use. Many a one of these noble forests, and open, natural parks have been appropriated already to embellish the comfortable family establishment which has been built either on its margin, or within it; and thousands more are standing, as yet unimproved, but equally inviting the future occupant to their ample protection.
In the immediate areas around our large towns and cities, it’s rarely possible to set aside a significant amount of land for ornamental purposes, except for rough and unattractive wasteland, often filled with rocks or swamps, or barren areas that are too poor for farming. These places usually lack trees and need to be planted, taking years to become wooded, even if the landowner wants to use them for that purpose. However, there are vast regions of our country where land conservation isn't a priority, allowing for a mixed use of land for both beauty and profit depending on the owner’s preference. Across the United States, there are stunning expanses and belts of cultivated land mixed with beautifully wooded areas, which offer excellent locations for building homes on the farms that incorporate them and only require a bit of effort and creativity to transform them into the most beautiful lawns and forest parks imaginable. The evergreens of the north thrive in a grandeur that is rare elsewhere, reaching heights that the young pines, firs, and larches of England can only aspire to. The elms of New England rise high, spreading their wide branches with a majesty not found in the old parks or forests of Europe, while maples, birches, beeches, ashes, oaks, and the impressive buttonwood create a diverse and lush growth. Traveling through the Middle States and into the far west, additional types of trees flourish—the tulip and poplar—the nut trees in all their varieties, along with many equally magnificent others, are seen everywhere as they line your path. Beyond the Alleghenies, and south of the Great Lakes, there are vast natural parks, many enclosed and dotted with herds of cattle, showcasing lone trees and clusters of forest that William the Conqueror would have traded an entire fiefdom for during his time in Hampshire; while stretching down toward the Gulf of Mexico, new stunning varieties of trees can be found throughout this vast region, in nearly every location, perfectly suited for both ornamentation and use. Many of these grand forests and open, natural parks have already been claimed to enhance the comfortable family homes built on their edges or within them; thousands more remain unclaimed, equally inviting future occupants to enjoy their generous protection.
The moral influences, too, of lawns and parks around or in the vicinity of our dwellings, are worthy of consideration. Secluded as many a country dweller may be, away from the throng of society, there is a sympathy in trees which invites our thoughts, and draws our presence among them with unwonted interest, and in frequent cases, assist materially in stamping the feelings and courses of our future lives—always with pure and ennobling sentiments—
The moral influences, too, about lawns and parks near our homes, deserve our attention. Even though many country residents might be isolated from the hustle and bustle of society, there’s a connection in the trees that encourages us to reflect and draws us in with unexpected fascination. Often, these natural spaces play a significant role in shaping our emotions and guiding the paths of our future lives—always fostering pure and uplifting feelings—
"The groves were God's first temples."
"The groves were the first temples of God."
The thoughtful man, as he passes under their sheltering boughs, in the heat of summer, with uncovered brow, silently worships the Hand that formed them there, scarcely conscious that their presence thus elevates his mind to holy aspirations. Among them, the speculative man
The thoughtful person, as they walk beneath the shade of the trees in the summer heat, with their head uncovered, quietly admires the Hand that created them, barely realizing that their presence lifts their thoughts to sacred aspirations. Among them, the reflective individual
"Finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks,
Sermons in stones."
"Finds voices in trees, stories in the flowing streams,
Messages in rocks."
Even children, born and educated among groves of trees, drink in early impressions, which follow them for good all their days; and, when the toils of their 185 after life are passed, they love to return to these grateful coverts, and spend their remaining days amid the tranquillity of their presence. Men habituated to the wildest life, too, enjoy the woods, the hills, and the mountains, beyond all the captivation and excitement of society, and are nowhere at rest, but when in their communion.
Even kids, raised and educated among trees, absorb early experiences that stay with them for their entire lives. When they've moved past the struggles of adulthood, they cherish the chance to return to these peaceful places, enjoying the calm they find there. Even men used to the wildest lifestyles love the forests, hills, and mountains more than the thrill and excitement of society, finding true peace only in that connection. 185
The love of forest scenery is a thing to be cultivated as a high accomplishment, in those whose early associations have not been among them. Indeed, country life is tame, and intolerable, without a taste, either natural or acquired, for fine landscape scenery; and in a land like this, where the country gives occupation to so great a proportion of its people, and a large share of those engaged in the active and exciting pursuits of populous towns, sigh and look forward to its enjoyment, every inducement should be offered to cultivate a taste for those things which make one of its chief attractions. Nor should seclusion from general society, and a residence apart from the bustling activity of the world, present a bar to the due cultivation of the taste in many subjects supposed to belong only to the throng of association. It is one of the advantages of rural life, that it gives us time to think; and the greatest minds of whose labors in the old world we have had the benefit, and of later times, in our own land, have been reared chiefly in the solitude of the country. Patrick Henry loved to range among the woods, admiring the leafy magnificence of nature, and to follow the meandering courses of the brooks, with his hook and line. Washington, 186 when treading the vast solitudes of central Virginia, with his surveyor's instruments on his back, conceived the wonderful resources of the great empire of which he will ever be styled the "father." The dwelling of the late John C. Calhoun, sheltered by noble trees, stands on an elevated swell of a grand range of mountain land, and it was there that his prolific genius ripened for those burning displays of thought which drew to him the affections of admiring thousands. Henry Clay undoubtedly felt the germ of his future greatness while sauntering, in his boyhood days, through the wild and picturesque slashes of Hanover. Webster, born amid the rugged hills of New Hampshire, drew the delightful relish of rural life, for which he is so celebrated, from the landscapes which surrounded his early home, and laid the foundation of his mighty intellect in the midst of lone and striking scenery. Bryant could never have written his "Thanatopsis," his "Rivulet," and his "Green River," but from the inspiration drawn from his secluded youthful home in the mountains of Massachusetts. Nor, to touch a more sacred subject, could Jonathan Edwards ever have composed his masterly "Treatise on the Will," in a pent-up city; but owes his enduring fame to the thought and leisure which he found, while ministering, among the sublime mountains of the Housatonic, to a feeble tribe of Stockbridge Indians.
The love of forest scenery is something to be nurtured as a valuable skill for those who didn't grow up surrounded by it. In fact, country life feels dull and unbearable without a natural or learned appreciation for beautiful landscapes. In a country like this, where many people work in rural areas and countless others in busy towns yearn for its beauty, we should encourage everyone to develop a fondness for the things that make the countryside so appealing. Living away from the hustle and bustle of society shouldn't stop anyone from cultivating an interest in subjects traditionally thought to be only for social circles. One of the benefits of rural life is that it gives us time to think, and some of the greatest thinkers from history and even from our own times have grown up primarily in the solitude of the countryside. Patrick Henry loved exploring the woods, admiring the lush beauty of nature, and following the winding paths of streams with his fishing rod. Washington, while wandering the vast solitude of central Virginia with his surveying tools, envisioned the incredible potential of the great nation he would forever be known as the "father" of. The home of the late John C. Calhoun, surrounded by majestic trees on a high point of a great mountain range, was where his remarkable mind flourished, resulting in the passionate thoughts that won him the admiration of thousands. Henry Clay likely sensed the beginnings of his future greatness while wandering through the wild, scenic areas of Hanover in his youth. Born among the tough hills of New Hampshire, Webster gained the appreciation for rural life that he is famous for from the landscapes surrounding his childhood home, which helped shape his remarkable intellect amidst striking scenery. Bryant could never have written "Thanatopsis," "Rivulet," and "Green River" without the inspiration he drew from his quiet teenage home in the Massachusetts mountains. And, to consider a more sacred topic, Jonathan Edwards could never have written his brilliant "Treatise on the Will" in a crowded city; instead, he owes his lasting reputation to the reflection and tranquility he found while ministering to a small group of Stockbridge Indians amidst the grand mountains of the Housatonic.
And these random names are but a few of those whose love of nature early imbibed, and in later life enjoyed in their own calm and retired homes, amid the serene beauty of woods and waters, which might 187 be named, as illustrations of the influence which fine scenery may exercise upon the mind, to assist in moulding it to greatness. The following anecdote was told us many years ago, by a venerable man in Connecticut, a friend of the elder Hillhouse, of New Haven, to whom that city is much indebted for the magnificent trees by which it has become renowned as "the City of the Elms:" While a member of the General Assembly of that state, when Hillhouse was in Congress, learning that he had just returned home from the annual session, our informant, with a friend, went to the residence of the statesman, to pay him a visit. He had returned only that morning, and on their way there, they met him near his house, with a stout young tree on his shoulder, just taken from a neighboring piece of forest, which he was about to transplant in the place of one which had died during his absence. After the usual salutations, our friend expressed his surprise that he was so soon engaged in tree-planting, before he had even had time to look to his private and more pressing affairs. "Another day may be too late," replied the senator; "my tree well planted, it will grow at its leisure, and I can then look to my own concerns at my ease. So, gentlemen, if you will just wait till the tree is set, we'll walk into the house, and settle the affairs of state in our own way."
And these random names are just a few of those who developed a love for nature early on and later enjoyed it in their peaceful and secluded homes, surrounded by the calm beauty of trees and water. This could serve as examples of how beautiful landscapes can influence the mind and help shape it for greatness. A respected man in Connecticut, a friend of the elder Hillhouse from New Haven, shared the following story with us many years ago. The city owes much to him for the magnificent trees that have made it famous as "the City of the Elms." While serving in the General Assembly of that state, when Hillhouse was in Congress, he learned that Hillhouse had just returned home from the annual session. Our informant, along with a friend, decided to visit Hillhouse. They encountered him near his house that morning, carrying a sizable young tree he had just taken from a nearby forest, ready to plant it in place of one that had died while he was away. After exchanging greetings, our friend expressed surprise that he was already tree-planting, having not yet attended to his own pressing matters. "Another day may be too late," replied the senator; "once my tree is well planted, it can grow at its own pace while I take care of my own matters at my leisure. So, gentlemen, if you don't mind waiting until I set the tree, we'll head inside and discuss state affairs in our own way."
Walter Scott, whose deep love of park and forest scenery has stamped with his masterly descriptions, his native land as the home of all things beautiful and useful in trees and plantations, spent a great share of his leisure time in planting, and has written a most 188 instructive essay on its practice and benefits. He puts into the mouth of "the Laird of Dumbiedikes," the advice, "Be aye sticking in a tree, Jock; it will be growing while you are sleeping." But Walter Scott had no American soil to plant his trees upon; nor do the grandest forest parks of Scotland show a tithe of the luxuriance and majesty of our American forests. Could he but have seen the variety, the symmetry, and the vast size of our oaks, and elms, and evergreens, a new element of descriptive power would have grown out of the admiration they had created within him; and he would have envied a people the possession of such exhaustless resources as we enjoy, to embellish their homes in the best imaginable manner, with such enduring monuments of grace and beauty.
Walter Scott, whose deep love of parks and forests is evident in his masterful descriptions, portrayed his homeland as a place of beauty and utility in trees and plantations. He spent a lot of his free time planting and wrote a very informative essay on its practice and benefits. He has "the Laird of Dumbiedikes" give the advice, "Always plant a tree, Jock; it will grow while you sleep." However, Walter Scott had no American soil to plant his trees in, nor do the grandest forests in Scotland compare to the richness and grandeur of our American forests. If he could have seen the variety, symmetry, and enormous size of our oaks, elms, and evergreens, a new level of descriptive power would have emerged from the admiration they inspired in him. He would have envied a people who possess such endless resources to beautify their homes in the best possible way, creating lasting symbols of grace and beauty.
To the miscellaneous, or casual reader, such course of remark may appear merely sublimated nonsense. No matter; we are not upon stilts, talking down to a class of inferior men, in a condescending tone, on a subject above their comprehension; but we are addressing men, and the sons of men, who are our equals—although, like ourself, upon their farms, taking their share in its daily toils, as well as pleasures—and can perfectly well understand our language, and sympathize with our thoughts. They are the thoughts of rural life everywhere. It was old Sam Johnson, the great lexicographer, who lumbered his unwieldy gait through the streets of cities for a whole life, and with all his vast learning and wisdom, had no appreciation of the charms of the country, that said, "Who feeds fat cattle should himself be fat;" as if the dweller on 189 the farm should not possess an idea above the brutes around him. We wonder if he ever supposed a merchant should have any more brain than the parcel that he handled, or the bale which he rolled, or directed others to roll for him! But, loving the solitude of the farm, and finding a thousand objects of interest and beauty scattered in profusion, where those educated among artificial objects would see nothing beyond things, to them, vulgar and common-place, in conversing with our rural friends upon what concerns their daily comfort, and is to constitute the nursery of those who succeed them, and on the influences which may, in a degree, stamp their future character, we cannot forbear such suggestions, connected with the family Home, as may induce them to cultivate all those accessories around it, which may add to their pleasure and contentment. We believe it was Keats, who said,
To the casual reader, this line of thought might just seem like a bunch of nonsense. That's okay; we're not talking down to anyone or treating them as inferior. We’re speaking to men and women, our equals—who, like us, are working on their farms, dealing with the daily grind as well as enjoying its pleasures—and they absolutely understand our words and share our ideas. These ideas reflect rural life everywhere. It was old Sam Johnson, the great lexicographer, who plodded through city streets all his life and, despite his extensive knowledge and wisdom, never appreciated the joys of country living, once said, "Who feeds fat cattle should himself be fat," implying that a farmer shouldn't have any thoughts beyond the animals around him. I wonder if he ever thought that a merchant should have no more intelligence than the goods he handled or rolled! But, appreciating the solitude of the farm and finding countless objects of interest and beauty in abundance—while those educated amidst artificial settings see only the mundane and trivial—in talking with our rural friends about what affects their daily comfort and shapes the lives of those who come after them, as well as the factors that can influence their character, we feel compelled to offer suggestions related to the family home. These suggestions might encourage them to enrich their surroundings in ways that enhance their enjoyment and satisfaction. I believe it was Keats who said,
"A thing of Beauty is a joy for ever."
"A beautiful thing is a joy forever."
And the thought that such "beauty" has been of our own creation, or that our own hands have assisted in its perpetuation, should certainly be a deep "joy" of our life.
And the idea that such "beauty" is something we've created ourselves, or that our own efforts have helped preserve it, should definitely be a profound "joy" in our lives.
We have remarked, that the farm house is the chief nursery on which our broad country must rely for that healthy infusion of stamina and spirit into those men who, under our institutions, guide its destiny and direct its councils. They, in the great majority of their numbers, are natives of the retired homestead. It is, therefore, of high consequence, that good taste, intelligence, and correct judgment, should enter into 190 all that surrounds the birth-place, and early scenes of those who are to be the future actors in the prominent walks of life, either in public or private capacity; and as the love of trees is one of the leading elements of enjoyment amid the outward scenes of country-life, we commend most heartily all who dwell in the pure air and bright sunshine of the open land to their study and cultivation.
We’ve noted that the farmhouse is the main place our vast country depends on to provide a healthy mix of strength and spirit to those men who, under our systems, shape its future and lead its discussions. Most of them are locals from quiet homesteads. Therefore, it’s very important that good taste, intelligence, and sound judgment are reflected in everything surrounding the place where these future leaders were born and grew up, whether they end up in public service or private life. Since an appreciation for trees is one of the key joys of country living, we wholeheartedly encourage everyone who lives in the fresh air and bright sunshine of rural areas to study and cultivate them. 190
Every man who lives in the country, be he a practical farmer or not, should plant trees, more or less. The father of a family should plant, for the benefit of his children, as well as for his own. The bachelor and the childless man should plant, if for nothing more than to show that he has left some living thing to perpetuate his memory. Boys should early be made planters. None but those who love trees, and plant them, know the serene pleasure of watching their growth, and anticipating their future beauty and grandeur; and no one can so exquisitely enjoy their grateful shade, as he whose hand has planted and cared for them. Planting, too, is a most agreeable pastime to a reflecting mind. It may be ranked among the pleasures, instead of the toils of life. We have always so found it. There is no pleasanter sight of labor than to see a father, with his young lads about him, planting a tree. It becomes a landmark of their industry and good taste; and no thinking man passes a plantation of fine trees but inwardly blesses the man, or the memory of the man who placed them there.
Every man living in the countryside, whether he’s a practical farmer or not, should plant trees in some way. A father should plant trees for his children’s benefit, as well as his own. Bachelors and men without children should also plant, if only to show they’ve left some living thing to carry on their memory. Boys should start planting at an early age. Only those who love trees and plant them know the peaceful joy of watching them grow and anticipating their future beauty and grandeur. No one enjoys their welcoming shade more than the person who has planted and cared for them. Planting is also a very enjoyable activity for a thoughtful mind. It can be considered one of life’s pleasures, rather than a labor. We have always found it to be so. There’s nothing more pleasant than seeing a father with his young sons planting a tree together. It becomes a symbol of their hard work and good taste, and no thoughtful person walks past a grove of beautiful trees without silently appreciating the person, or the memory of the person, who planted them.
Aside from all this, trees properly distributed, give a value to an estate far beyond the cost of planting, 191 and tending their growth, and which no other equal amount of labor and expense upon it can confer. Innumerable farms and places have been sold at high prices, over those of perhaps greater producing value, merely for the trees which embellished them. Thus, in a pecuniary light, to say nothing of the pleasure and luxury they confer, trees are a source of profitable investment.
Besides all this, well-placed trees add so much value to a property that it far exceeds the cost of planting and caring for them, a value that no other amount of work and money can match. Countless farms and properties have been sold for high prices, despite potentially having lower production value, simply because of the trees that beautified them. So, from a financial perspective—without even mentioning the enjoyment and elegance they provide—trees are a worthwhile investment. 191
It is a happy feature in the improving rural character of our country, that tree-planting and tree preservation for some years past have attracted much more attention than formerly; and with this attention a better taste is prevailing in their selection. We have gained but little in the introduction of many of the foreign trees among us, for ornament. Some of them are absolutely barbarous in comparison with our American forest trees, and their cultivation is only a demonstration of the utter want of good taste in those who apply them.
It’s a positive sign of the improving rural landscape in our country that tree planting and tree preservation have received much more focus in recent years than before. With this increased attention, people are also becoming more selective and discerning about the types of trees they choose. We haven’t really benefited much from introducing many foreign trees for decoration. In fact, some of them are downright ugly compared to our native American trees, and their use only shows a complete lack of good taste among those who choose them.
For ordinary purposes, but few exotics should be tolerated; and those chiefly in collections, as curiosities, or for arboretums—in which latter the farmer cannot often indulge; and for all the main purposes of shade, and use, and ornament, the trees of no country can equal our own.
For everyday use, only a few exotic trees should be allowed; mainly in collections, as curiosities, or in arboretums—which farmers usually can't afford to have. For all the primary purposes of shade, utility, and decoration, the trees from no other country can compare to our own.
Varied as our country is, in soils and climates, no particular directions can be given as to the individual varieties of tree which are to be preferred for planting. Each locality has its own most appropriate kinds, and he who is to plant, can best make the selections most fitted to his use. Rapid-growing trees, when of fine symmetry, and free from bad habits in throwing up 192 suckers; not liable to the attacks of insects; of early, dense, and long-continued foliage, are most to be commended; while their opposites in character should be avoided in all well-kept grounds. It requires, indeed, but a little thought and observation to guide every one in the selection which he should make, to produce the best effect of which the tree itself is capable.
Our country is diverse in soils and climates, so there aren’t specific recommendations for which tree varieties to choose for planting. Each area has its own best-suited types, and those who are planting can make the best choices based on their needs. Fast-growing trees that have good shape, don't produce many suckers, aren’t prone to insect damage, and have early, thick, and long-lasting leaves are highly recommended. On the other hand, trees that lack these qualities should be avoided in well-maintained landscapes. It really just takes a bit of thought and observation for anyone to choose the right tree to achieve the best appearance possible. 192
Giving the importance we have, to trees, and their planting, it may be supposed that we should discuss their position in the grounds to which they should be appropriated. But no specific directions can be given at large. All this branch of the subject must be left to the locality, position, and surface of the ground sought to be improved. A good tree can scarcely stand in a wrong place, when not injurious to a building by its too dense shade, or shutting out its light, or prospect. Still, the proper disposition of trees is a study, and should be well considered before they be planted. Bald, unsightly spots should be covered by them, when not devoted to more useful objects of the farm, either in pasturage or cultivation. A partial shading of the soil by trees may add to its value for grazing purposes, like the woodland pastures of Kentucky, where subject to extreme droughts, or a scorching sun.
Given the importance we attach to trees and their planting, it seems necessary to discuss where they should be placed. However, we can't provide specific guidelines that apply universally. This aspect of the topic must be tailored to the local area, the tree's position, and the condition of the land that needs improvement. A good tree is unlikely to be in the wrong spot unless it's causing problems for a building by blocking too much light or view. Still, the right arrangement of trees is something to consider carefully before planting. Unsightly bare patches should be filled with trees unless they're needed for more practical uses like grazing or farming. Partial shade from trees can enhance the land's value for grazing, similar to the woodland pastures in Kentucky that endure extreme droughts or intense sunlight.
If the planter feels disposed to consult authorities, as to the best disposition of his trees, works on Landscape Gardening may be studied; but these can give only general hints, and the only true course is to strive to make his grounds look as much like nature herself as 193 possible—for nature seldom makes mistakes in her designs. To conclude a course of remark, which the plain farmer, cultivating his land for its yearly profit alone, may consider as foreign to the subject of our work, we would not recommend any one to plant trees who is not willing to spend the necessary time to nurse and tend them afterward, till they are out of harm's way, and well established in a vigorous growth. All this must be taken into the account, for it is better to have even but a few trees, and those what trees should be, than a whole forest of stinted things, writhing and pining through a course of sickly existence.
If the gardener wants to seek advice on the best way to arrange his trees, he can look into books on Landscape Gardening; however, these can only provide general tips. The best approach is to try and make his grounds resemble nature as much as possible, since nature usually gets her designs right. To wrap up what might seem irrelevant to the straightforward farmer, who is only interested in cultivating his land for profit, we advise against planting trees unless one is prepared to invest the time needed to nurture and care for them until they are safe and healthy. This is important to consider because it's better to have just a few well-chosen trees than an entire forest of stunted ones struggling through a sickly existence. 193
A chapter might also be written upon the proper mode of taking up and planting trees, but as this would lead us to a subject more directly belonging to another department, the proper authorities on that head must be consulted.
A chapter could also cover the right way to take up and plant trees, but since this would bring us to a topic more relevant to another area, the appropriate experts on that subject should be consulted.
FRUIT GARDEN—ORCHARDS.
As the fruit garden and orchards are usually near appendages to the dwelling and out-buildings, a few remarks as to their locality and distribution may be appropriate. The first should always be near the house, both for convenience in gathering its fruits, and for its due protection from the encroachments of those not entitled to its treasures. It should, if possible, adjoin the kitchen garden, for convenience of access; as fruit is, or should be, an important item in the daily consumption of every family where it can be grown and afforded. A sheltered spot, if to be had, should be devoted to this object; or if not, its margin, on the exposed side, should be set with the hardiest trees to which it is appropriated—as the apple. The fruit garden, proper, may also contain the smaller fruits, as they are termed, as the currant, gooseberry, raspberry, and whatever other shrub-fruits are grown; while the quince, the peach, the apricot, nectarine, plum, cherry, pear, and apple may, in the order they are named, stand in succession behind them, the taller and more hardy growth of each successive variety rising higher, and protecting its less hardy and aspiring neighbor. The soil for all these varieties of tree is supposed to be 195 congenial, and our remarks will only be directed to their proper distribution.
As fruit gardens and orchards are usually extensions of homes and outbuildings, it makes sense to discuss their placement and organization. The first should always be close to the house for easy access to its fruits and for protection against unauthorized pickers. Ideally, it should be next to the kitchen garden to make it easier to reach; after all, fruit is or should be an essential part of daily meals in families who can grow and afford it. If possible, choose a sheltered spot for this garden; if that's not an option, plant hardy trees, like apples, along the exposed edge. The main fruit garden can also include smaller fruits, like currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and other bush fruits. Behind them, you can arrange quince, peach, apricot, nectarine, plum, cherry, pear, and apple trees in that order, with each taller and sturdier variety providing shade and protection to its less robust neighbors. The soil should be suitable for all these types of trees, and we'll focus on their proper arrangement.
The aspect for the fruit garden should, if possible, front the south, south-east, or south-west, in a northerly climate. In the Middle and Southern States the exposure is of less consequence. Currants, gooseberries, raspberries, &c., should, for their most productive bearing, and the highest quality of their fruits, be set at least four feet apart, in the rows, and the rows six feet distant from each other, that there may be abundant room to cultivate them with the plow, and kept clean of weeds and grass. The quince, peach, apricot, nectarine, and plum should be 16 feet apart each way. The pear, if on quince stock, may be 12 feet apart, and if on its own stock, 20 to 24 feet; while the apple should always be 30 to 36 feet apart, to let in the requisite degree of sun and air to ripen as well as give growth, color, and flavor to its fruit. The tendency of almost all planters of fruit trees is to set them too close, and many otherwise fine fruit gardens are utterly ruined by the compact manner in which they are planted. Trees are great consumers of the atmosphere; every leaf is a lung, inhaling and respiring the gases, and if sufficient breathing room be not allowed them, the tree sickens, and pines for the want of it; therefore, every fruit tree, and fruit-bearing shrub should be so placed that the summer sun can shine on every part of its surface at some hour of the day. In such position, the fruit will reach its maximum of flavor, size, and perfection.
The fruit garden should ideally face south, southeast, or southwest in northern climates. In the Midwest and Southern States, the direction matters less. To ensure the best yield and quality, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc., should be planted at least four feet apart in rows, with the rows spaced six feet apart to provide enough room for cultivation with a plow and to keep them free of weeds and grass. Quince, peach, apricot, nectarine, and plum trees should be spaced 16 feet apart in all directions. Pear trees should be 12 feet apart if planted on quince stock, and 20 to 24 feet apart if on their own roots. Apple trees should always be spaced 30 to 36 feet apart to allow enough sunlight and air circulation for ripening, growth, color, and flavor of the fruit. Many fruit tree planters tend to plant too closely, which can ruin otherwise great fruit gardens. Trees consume a lot of air; each leaf acts like a lung, taking in and releasing gases. If they don't have enough space to breathe, the trees can get sick and struggle to thrive. Therefore, every fruit tree and fruit-bearing shrub should be positioned so that sunlight hits every part of its surface at some point during the day. This placement helps the fruit achieve its best flavor, size, and perfection.
The ground, too, should be rich; and, to have the 196 greatest benefit of the soil, no crops should be grown among the trees, after they have arrived at their full maturity of bearing. Thus planted, and nursed, with good selections of varieties, both the fruit garden and the orchard become one of the most ornamental, as well as most profitable portions of the farm.
The soil should be rich, and to get the most out of it, no crops should be grown among the trees once they’ve reached full maturity. When properly planted and cared for, with good varieties, both the fruit garden and the orchard become some of the most beautiful and profitable parts of the farm.
In point of position, as affecting the appearance of the homestead, the fruit garden should stand on the weather-side of the dwelling, so as, although protected, in its several varieties, by itself, when not altogether sheltered by some superior natural barrier, it should appear to shelter both the dwelling and kitchen gardens, which adjoin them.
In terms of placement, to enhance the look of the home, the fruit garden should be on the weather-side of the house. This way, even though it’s somewhat protected by itself and not completely shielded by a larger natural barrier, it should seem to provide shelter to both the house and the nearby kitchen gardens.
As this is a subject intended to be but incidentally touched in these pages, and only then as immediately connected in its general character with the dwelling house and its attachments, we refrain from going into any particulars of detail concerning it. It is also a subject to which we are strongly attached, and gladly would we have a set chat with our readers upon it; but as the discussion for so broad a field as we should have to survey, would be in many points arbitrary, and unfitting to local information as to varieties, and particular cultivation, we refer the reader, with great pleasure, to the several treatises of Downing, and Thomas, and Barry, on this interesting topic, with which the public are fortunately in possession; observing, only, that there is no one item of rural economy to which our attention can be given, which yields more of luxury, health, and true enjoyment, both to the body and the mind, than the cultivation of good fruits.
As this topic is meant to be only briefly mentioned here and only in relation to the house and its surroundings, we will not go into any specific details about it. It's a subject we feel strongly about, and we would love to have a full conversation with our readers on it; however, discussing such a wide area would be somewhat arbitrary and not really suited to local variations and specifics in cultivation. Therefore, we happily refer the reader to the various writings of Downing, Thomas, and Barry on this fascinating subject, which the public is fortunate to have access to. We only want to note that there is no aspect of rural living that we can discuss that brings more luxury, health, and genuine enjoyment to both body and mind than growing quality fruits.
HOW TO LAY OUT A KITCHEN GARDEN.
The kitchen garden yields more necessaries and comforts to the family, than any other piece of ground on the premises. It is, of consequence, necessary that it be so located and planned as to be ready of access, and yield the greatest possible quantity of products for the labor bestowed upon it; and as locality and plan have much to do with the labor bestowed upon it and the productions it may yield, both these subjects should be considered.
The kitchen garden provides more essentials and comforts for the family than any other part of the property. Therefore, it’s important for it to be situated and designed in a way that makes it easily accessible and produces as much as possible for the effort put into it. Since location and design greatly influence the work involved and the output it can provide, both of these factors should be taken into account.
As to locality, the kitchen garden should lie in the warmest and most sheltered spot which may be convenient to the kitchen of the house. It should, in connection with that, be convenient of access to the dung-yards of the stables. The size may be such as your necessities or your convenience may demand. The shape, either a parallelogram or a square; for it will be recollected, that this is a place allotted, not for a show or pleasure ground, but for profit. If the garden be large, this shape will better allow the use of the plow to turn up the soil, which, in a large garden, is a much cheaper, and, when properly done, a better mode 198 than to spade it; and if small, and it be worked with the spade, right lines are easier made with the spade than curved ones. One or more walks, at least eight feet wide, should be made, leading from a broad gate, or bars, through which a cart and horse, or oxen, may enter, to draw in manure, or carry out the vegetables; and if such walk, or walks, do not extend around the garden, which, if in a large one, they should do, a sufficient area should be thrown out at the farther extremity, to turn the cart upon. If the soil be free, and stony, the stones should be taken out clean, when large—and if small, down to the size of a hen's egg—and the surface made as level as possible, for a loose soil will need no draining. If the soil be a clay, or clayey loam, it should be underdrained two and a half feet, to be perfect, and the draining so planned as to lead off to a lower spot outside. This draining warms the soil, opens it for filtration, and makes it friable. Then, properly fenced, thoroughly manured, and plowed deep, and left rough—no matter how rough—in the fall of the year, and as late before the setting in of winter as you dare risk it, that part of the preparation is accomplished.
As for location, the kitchen garden should be placed in the warmest and most sheltered spot convenient to the kitchen of the house. It should also be easily accessible to the manure piles from the stables. Its size can be based on your needs or preferences. The shape should either be a parallelogram or a square; remember, this is a space designated not for show or pleasure but for profit. A larger garden benefits from this shape as it allows for easier use of a plow to turn the soil, which is more cost-effective and effective when done right than using a spade; and if the garden is small and worked with a spade, making straight lines is easier than curved ones. There should be one or more paths at least eight feet wide, leading from a broad gate or bars that can accommodate a cart and horses or oxen for bringing in manure or taking out vegetables; and if those paths don’t circle the garden, which they should in a large garden, there should be enough space at the far end to turn the cart around. If the soil is loose and stony, remove the larger stones completely—and smaller ones down to the size of a hen's egg—and level the surface as much as possible, since loose soil doesn’t require draining. If the soil is clay or clayey loam, it needs to be underdrained to a depth of two and a half feet, ideally directing the drainage to a lower spot outside. This draining warms the soil, allows for better filtration, and makes it more crumbly. Then, properly fenced, fully manured, and deeply plowed—even if it’s left rough—by fall, and as late as you can before winter arrives, that part of the preparation is complete.
The permanent or wide walks of the garden, after being laid out and graded, should never be plowed nor disturbed, except by the hoe and rake, to keep down the weeds and grass; yet, if a close, and well-shorn grass turf be kept upon them, it is perhaps the cheapest and most cleanly way of keeping the walks. They need only cutting off close with the hand-hook, in summer.
The permanent or wide paths of the garden, once established and leveled, should never be plowed or disturbed, except with a hoe and rake to control weeds and grass; however, if a tight, well-maintained grass turf is kept on them, it might be the most cost-effective and clean way to maintain the paths. They only need to be trimmed closely with a hand-held sickle in the summer.
199 We have known a great many people, after laying out a kitchen garden, and preparing it for use, fill it up with fruit trees, supposing that vegetables will grow quite as well with them as without. This is a wide mistake. No tree larger than a currant or gooseberry bush should ever stand in a vegetable garden. These fruits being partially used in the cooking department, as much in the way of vegetables, as of fruits, and small in size, may be permitted; and they, contrary to the usual practice, should always stand in open ground, where they can have all the benefits of the sun and rain to ripen the fruit to perfection, as well as to receive the cultivation they need, instead of being placed under fences around the sides of the garden, where they are too frequently neglected, and become the resort of vermin, or make prolific harbors for weeds.
199 We've seen many people, after setting up a kitchen garden and getting it ready for planting, fill it with fruit trees, thinking that vegetables will grow just as well alongside them. This is a big mistake. Not a single tree larger than a currant or gooseberry bush should ever be in a vegetable garden. These smaller fruits, which are often used in cooking like vegetables, can be allowed; however, contrary to common practice, they should always be planted in open ground, where they can take full advantage of the sun and rain to grow their fruit perfectly, while also getting the care they need, instead of being tucked away under fences around the garden, where they tend to be ignored and attract pests or become overrun with weeds.
Along the main walks, or alleys, the borders for perennial plants, as well as the currant and gooseberry bushes, should be made—for the plow should run parallel to, and not at right angles with them. Here may stand the rhubarbs, the sea kales, the various herbs, or even the asparagus beds, if a particular quarter be not set apart for them; and, if it be important, a portion of these main borders may be appropriated to the more common flowers and small shrubbery, if desired to cultivate them in a plain way; but not a peach, apricot, or any other larger tree than a currant or raspberry, should come within it. They not only shade the small plants, but suck up and rob them of their food and moisture, and keep off the sun, and prevent the circulation of air—than which nothing needs all 200 these more than garden vegetables, to have them in high perfection. If it be necessary, by means of a cold exposure on the one side, to have a close plantation of shrubbery to screen the garden, let it be outside the fence, rather than within it; but if within, let there be a broad walk between such shrubbery and the garden beds, as their roots will extend under the vegetables, and rob them of their food.
Along the main paths or alleys, borders for perennial plants, as well as currant and gooseberry bushes, should be created—the plow should run parallel to them, not at right angles. Here, you can plant rhubarb, sea kale, various herbs, or even asparagus beds, unless a specific area is set aside for them. If necessary, a part of these main borders can be used for more common flowers and small shrubs if you want to grow them simply; however, no larger trees than currants or raspberries should be included. Larger trees not only shade smaller plants but also drain their nutrients and moisture, block sunlight, and hinder air circulation—all of which are crucial for growing vegetables perfectly. If it's essential to have a dense area of shrubs for protection on one side of the garden, it's better to have them outside the fence. But if they must be within the fence, there should be a wide path between the shrubs and the garden beds because their roots can extend beneath the vegetables and take away their nutrients. 200
A walk, alley, or cartway, on the sides of the garden, is always better next to the fence, than to fill that space with anything else, as it is usually shaded for a portion of the day, and may be better afforded for such waste purposes than the open, sunny ground within.
A path, alley, or driveway along the edges of the garden is always better next to the fence than filling that space with anything else, since it's usually shaded for a part of the day and may be more suitable for such waste purposes than the open, sunny area inside.
It will be observed that market gardeners, men who always strive to make the most profit from their land and labor, and obtain the best vegetables, cultivate them in open fields. Not a tree, nor even a bush is permitted to stand near the growing crop, if they can prevent it; and where one is not stinted in the area of his domain, their example should be followed.
It can be seen that market gardeners, who consistently aim to get the highest returns from their land and labor while producing the best vegetables, grow them in open fields. No trees or even bushes are allowed to remain close to the crops, if they can help it; and where someone isn't limited in the size of their property, they should follow this example.
A word upon plowing gardens. Clays, or clayey loams, should always be manured and plowed in the fall, just before the setting in of the winter frosts. A world of pounding and hammering of lumps, to make them fine, in spring, is saved by fall plowing, besides incorporating the manure more thoroughly with the soil, as well as freezing out and destroying the eggs of worms and insects which infest it. Thrown up deeply and roughly with the plow or spade, the frosts act mechanically upon the soil, and slack and pulverise it so thoroughly that a heavy raking in early spring, is 201 all that becomes necessary to put it in the finest condition for seeds, and make it perhaps the very best and most productive of all garden soils whatever. A light sandy loam is better to lie compact in winter, and manured and turned up in early spring. Its friable nature leaves it always open and light, and at all times in the absence of frost, accessible to the spade or the hoe. On these accounts, it is usually the most desirable and convenient soil for the kitchen garden, and on the whole, generally preferred where either kind may be a matter simply of choice.
A note on plowing gardens. Clay soils, or clayey loams, should always be fertilized and plowed in the fall, right before the winter frosts set in. This saves a lot of effort in the spring trying to break up clumps of dirt and also helps mix the fertilizer more thoroughly with the soil. Additionally, it helps kill off the eggs of worms and insects that might be in the soil. When you turn the soil over deeply and roughly with a plow or spade, the frosts help break down the soil even further, meaning that a thorough raking in early spring is all that's needed to prepare it perfectly for planting seeds. This can make it possibly the best and most productive garden soil around. A light sandy loam, on the other hand, does better when it stays compact during the winter and is fertilized and turned over in early spring. Its crumbly texture keeps it airy and light, making it easy to work with whenever there’s no frost. For these reasons, it's often the most desirable and convenient soil for kitchen gardens and is generally preferred when given a choice.
FLOWERS.
Start not, gentle reader! We are not about to inflict upon you a dissertation on Pelargoniums, Calla-Ethiopias, Japonicas, and such like unmentionable terms, that bring to your mind the green-house, and forcing-house, and all the train of expense and vexation attending them; but we desire to have a short familiar conversation about what is all around you, or if not around you, should be, and kept there, with very little pains or labor on your part. Still, if you dislike the subject, just hand this part of our book over to your excellent wife, or daughters, or sisters, as the case may be, and we will talk to them about this matter.
Don't worry, dear reader! We're not going to bore you with a lengthy discussion on Pelargoniums, Calla-Ethiopias, Japonicas, and other such fancy terms that make you think of greenhouses and all the costs and headaches that come with them. Instead, we want to have a casual chat about what’s around you, or what ideally should be there, with minimal effort or work on your part. However, if you're not interested in the topic, feel free to pass this part of our book to your wonderful wife, daughters, or sisters, depending on your situation, and we'll discuss it with them.
Flowers have their objects, and were made for our use and pleasure; otherwise, God would never have strewed them, as he has, so bountifully along our paths, and filled the world with their fragrance and beauty. Like all else beautiful, which He made, and pronounced "good," flowers have been objects of admiration and love since man's creation; and their cultivation has ever been a type of civilization and refinement among all people who have left written 203 records behind them. Flowers equally become the cottage and the palace, in their decoration. The humblest cottager, and the mightiest monarch, have equally admired their beauty and their odor; and the whole train of mortals between, have devoted a portion of their time and thoughts to the development of their peculiar properties.
Flowers have their purpose and were created for our enjoyment; otherwise, God wouldn’t have scattered them so generously along our paths and filled the world with their beauty and scent. Like everything else beautiful that He created and declared "good," flowers have been cherished and admired since the beginning of humanity, and their cultivation has always represented civilization and refinement among all cultures that have left written records. Flowers enhance both humble cottages and grand palaces in their decoration. The simplest farmer and the most powerful king have both appreciated their beauty and fragrance, and everyone in between has taken time to explore their unique qualities. 203
But let that pass. Plain country people as we are, there are enough of sufficient variety all around us, to engage our attention, and give us all that we desire to embellish our homes, and engage the time which we have to devote to them. Among the wild flowers, in the mountains and hills of the farthest North, on the margin of their hidden brooks, where
But let that pass. As simple country folks, there are plenty of different things all around us to capture our interest and provide everything we need to decorate our homes and fill the time we have to spend on them. Among the wildflowers, in the mountains and hills of the far North, along the edges of their secluded streams, where
"Floats the scarce-rooted watercress;"
"Floats the rare watercress;"
and on their barren sides, the tiny violet and the laurel bloom, each in their season, with unwonted beauty; and, sloping down on to the plains beneath, blush out in all their summer garniture, the wild rose and the honeysuckle. On, through the Middle States, the lesser flowers of early spring throw out a thousand brilliant dyes, and are surrounded by a host of summer plants, vieing with each other in the exuberance of their tints. On the Alleghanies, through all their vast range, grow up the magnificent dogwood, kalmia, and rhododendron, spangling mile upon mile of their huge sides and tops with white, and covering crags and precipices of untold space with their blushing splendor. Further west, on the prairies, and oak openings, and in the deep woods, too, of the great lakes, 204 and of the Mississippi valley, with the earliest grass, shoot up, all over the land, a succession of flowers, which in variety and profusion of shape, and color, and odor, outvie all the lilies of the gardens of Solomon; and so they continue till the autumnal frosts cut down both grass and flower alike. Further south, along the piney coast, back through the hills and over the vast reach of cotton and sugar lands, another class of flowers burst out from their natural coverts in equal glory; and the magnolia, and the tulip-tree, and the wild orange throw a perfume along the air, like the odors of Palestine. In the deep lagoons of the southern rivers, too, float immense water-lilies, laying their great broad leaves, and expanded white and yellow flowers, upon the surface, which the waters of the Nile in the days of Cleopatra never equaled. And these are nature's wild productions only.
and on their barren slopes, the tiny violet and the laurel blossom, each in their season, with unexpected beauty; and, sloping down to the plains below, the wild rose and the honeysuckle burst forth in all their summer glory. As we travel through the Middle States, the smaller flowers of early spring display a thousand vibrant colors, surrounded by a multitude of summer plants competing with each other in the richness of their hues. On the Alleghenies, throughout their vast expanse, the magnificent dogwood, kalmia, and rhododendron blanket miles of their towering slopes and peaks with white, covering crags and cliffs of unimaginable scale with their radiant beauty. Further west, on the prairies, in oak openings, and deep woods of the great lakes, and of the Mississippi valley, along with the earliest grass, a succession of flowers springs up all over the land, surpassing all the lilies of Solomon's gardens in variety, abundance of shapes, colors, and scents; this display continues until the autumn frost takes down both grass and flowers. Further south, along the piney coast, through the hills and across the vast stretches of cotton and sugar lands, another group of flowers emerge from their natural hideouts in equal splendor; and the magnolia, tulip tree, and wild orange fill the air with fragrances reminiscent of Palestine. In the deep lagoons of the southern rivers, immense water lilies float, spreading their large broad leaves and open white and yellow flowers on the surface, unmatched even by the waters of the Nile in Cleopatra's time. And these are just nature's wild creations.
Flowers being cultivated, not for profit, but for show and amusement, need not intrude upon the time which is required to the more important labors of the farm. A little time, given at such hours when it can be best spared, will set all the little flower-beds in order, and keep the required shrubbery of the place in trim—and should not be denied in any family who enjoy a taste for them. Even the simplest of their kind, when carefully disposed, produce a fine effect; and the hardy bulbous, and tuberous-rooted plants require but slight aid in producing the highest perfection of their bloom; while the fibrous-rooted perennials, and the flowering shrubs, bloom on from year to year, almost uncared for and untouched.
Flowers being cultivated, not for profit, but for fun and enjoyment, doesn’t need to interfere with the important work on the farm. A little time spent during moments when it can be easily spared will tidy up all the flower beds and keep the necessary shrubs looking good—and this should not be denied to any family that enjoys them. Even the simplest ones, when arranged nicely, create a great effect; and the hardy bulbous and tuberous plants require very little help to reach their full bloom; while the fibrous-rooted perennials and flowering shrubs continue to bloom year after year, almost without care and attention.
205 The annuals require the most attention. Their seeds must be planted and gathered every year; they must be weeded and nursed with more care than the others; yet they richly repay all this trouble in their fresh bloom when the others are gone, and will carry their rich flowers far into the frosts of autumn, when their hardier companions have composed themselves for a winter's rest.
205 Annuals need the most care. Their seeds have to be planted and collected every year; they need to be weeded and tended to more carefully than the others; but they fully reward all this effort with their vibrant blooms when the others have faded, and they will continue to produce their stunning flowers well into the autumn frosts, while their hardier companions have settled in for a winter's rest.
The position of the flower-bed, or borders, may be various. As a matter of taste, however, they should be near the house, and in view of the windows of the most frequented rooms. They thus give more enjoyment in their sight, than when but occasionally seen in special visits; and such spots can usually be set apart for them. If not in the way of more important things, they should always be thus placed, where they are ever objects of interest and attraction.
The location of the flower bed or borders can vary. However, for aesthetic reasons, they should be close to the house and visible from the windows of the most used rooms. This way, they can be enjoyed more often than if they were only seen during special visits, and such areas can usually be designated for them. If they don't obstruct more important elements, they should always be positioned where they remain intriguing and appealing.
The ground which flowering plants occupy should be devoted to them alone, and the soil be made deep and rich. They should not be huddled up, nor crowded, but stand well apart, and have plenty of breathing-room for their branches and leaves, and space for the spread of their roots. They are consumers of the fertilizing gases, and require, equally with other plants, their due supply of manures—which also adds to the brilliance and size of their bloom, as well as to the growth of their stems. Their roots should be protected in winter by coarse litter thrown over them, particularly the earlier flowering plants, as it gives them an early and rapid start in the spring.
The area where flowering plants grow should be dedicated to them exclusively, with the soil being deep and rich. They shouldn't be crammed together or crowded; instead, they should be spaced out properly, allowing plenty of room for their branches and leaves to breathe and for their roots to spread. They use up the nourishing gases in the air and, like other plants, need their fair share of fertilizers, which also enhances the vibrancy and size of their flowers, as well as the growth of their stems. Their roots should be protected during winter with coarse mulch, especially for the early-blooming plants, as this helps them start growing quickly in the spring.
In variety, we need scarcely recommend what may 206 be most desirable. The crocus, and snowdrop are among (if not quite) the earliest in bloom; and to these follow the hyacinth, and daffodil, the jonquil, and many-varied family of Narcissus, the low-headed hearts-ease, or pansy; with them, too, comes the flowering-almond, the lilac, and another or two flowering shrubs. Then follow the tulips, in all their gorgeous and splendid variety of single, double, and fringed. To these follow the great peonies, in their full, dashing colors of crimson, white and pink, and the tree-like snow-ball, or guelder-rose. By the side of these hangs out the monthly-trumpet-honeysuckle, gracing the columns of your veranda, porch, or window, and the large Siberian honeysuckle, with its white and pink flowers; and along with them, the various Iris family, or fleur-de-lis, reminding one of France and the Bourbons, the Prussian lilac, and the early phloxes. Then blush out, in all their endless variety of shade and tint, from the purest white to the deepest purple, the whole vast family of roses; and in stature, from the humblest twig that leans its frail stem upon the ground, up to the hardy climber, whose delicious clusters hang over your chamber window; and a month of fragrance and beauty of these completes the succession of bulbs, and tubers, and perennial plants and shrubs—scores of which have not been noticed.
In terms of variety, we hardly need to point out what is most desirable. The crocus and snowdrop are among the earliest to bloom, followed by the hyacinth and daffodil, the jonquil, and many members of the Narcissus family, along with the low-headed hearts-ease, or pansy. The flowering almond, lilac, and a couple of other flowering shrubs join them. Next come the tulips, with their stunning array of single, double, and fringed types. Then there are the magnificent peonies in vibrant shades of crimson, white, and pink, along with the tree-like snowball or guelder-rose. Beside these, the monthly trumpet honeysuckle decorates the columns of your veranda, porch, or window, and the large Siberian honeysuckle, with its white and pink flowers, complements them. Alongside are the various members of the Iris family or fleur-de-lis, which evoke images of France and the Bourbons, as well as the Prussian lilac and the early phloxes. Finally, the vast family of roses blooms in an endless variety of shades, from pure white to deep purple, ranging from the smallest twig that leans its delicate stem on the ground to the hardy climber whose fragrant clusters hang over your window. A month filled with the fragrance and beauty of these plants completes the succession of bulbs, tubers, and perennial plants and shrubs—many of which haven’t even been mentioned.
Now commence the annuals, which may carry you a month further into the season, when the flaunting dahlia of every hue, and budding from its plant of every size, from the height of little Tommy, who is just toddling out with his mother to watch the first 207 opening flower, up to the top of his father's hat, as he stands quite six feet, to hold the little fellow up to try to smell of another, which, like all the rest, has no sign of odor. Then come, after a long retinue of different things—among which we always count the morning-glory, or convolvulus, running up the kitchen windows,—the great sun-flower, which throws his broad disk high over the garden fence, always cheerful, and always glowing—the brilliant tribe of asters, rich, varied, and beautiful, running far into the autumnal frosts; and, to close our floral season, the chrysanthemum, which, well cared-for, blooms out in the open air, and, carefully taken up and boxed, will stay with us, in the house, till Christmas. Thus ends the blooming year. Now, if you would enjoy a pleasure perfectly pure, which has no alloy, save an occasional disappointment by casualty, and make home interesting beyond all other places, learn first to love, then to get, and next to cultivate flowers.
Now begin the annual blooms, which might take you a month further into the season, when the vibrant dahlia in every color, sprouting from its plant in every size—from the height of little Tommy, who is just toddling out with his mom to see the first opening flower, up to the top of his dad's hat, as he stands a solid six feet tall, holding the little guy up to sniff another flower, which, like all the others, has no scent—starts to show. Then, after a long list of different plants—among which we always include the morning-glory, or convolvulus, climbing up the kitchen windows—comes the grand sunflower, which raises its broad disk high over the garden fence, always cheerful and glowing. Following that are the brilliant asters, rich, diverse, and beautiful, lasting deep into the autumn frosts; and, to cap off our floral season, the chrysanthemum, which, with proper care, blooms in the open air and, when carefully dug up and boxed, will brighten our homes until Christmas. This concludes the blooming year. Now, if you want to experience a joy that is utterly pure, with only the occasional disappointment due to chance, and make home more interesting than anywhere else, learn first to love, then to acquire, and next to tend to flowers.
FARM COTTAGES.
Altogether too little attention has been paid in our country to these most useful appendages to the farm, both in their construction and appearance. Nothing adds more to the feeling of comfort, convenience, and home expression in the farm, than the snug-built laborers' cottage upon it. The cottage also gives the farm an air of respectability and dignity. The laborer should, if not so sumptuously, be as comfortably housed and sheltered as his employer. This is quite as much to the interest of such employer as it is beneficial to the health and happiness of the laborer. Building is so cheap in America, that the difference in cost between a snugly-finished cottage, and a rickety, open tenement, is hardly to be taken into consideration, as compared with the higher health, and increased enjoyment of the laborer and his family; while every considerate employer knows that cheerfulness and contentment of disposition, which are perhaps more promoted by good home accommodations for the workingman than by any other influence, are strong incentives to increased labor on his part, and more fidelity in its application.
Way too little attention has been paid in our country to these really useful additions to the farm, both in how they're built and how they look. Nothing contributes more to the sense of comfort, convenience, and home feel on the farm than a well-built worker's cottage. The cottage also lends the farm an air of respectability and dignity. The worker should, if not lavishly, at least be comfortably housed and sheltered like their employer. This is just as much in the best interest of the employer as it benefits the health and happiness of the worker. Construction is so affordable in America that the price difference between a well-finished cottage and a rickety, open-place is barely worth considering when looking at the better health and increased enjoyment for the worker and their family; plus, every thoughtful employer knows that a positive and content attitude, often enhanced by good housing for the worker, is a strong motivator for greater productivity and loyalty in their work.
209 A landed estate, of whatever extent, with its respectable farm house, in its own expressive style of construction, relieved and set off by its attendant cottages, either contiguous, or remote, and built in their proper character, leaves nothing wanting to fill the picture upon which one loves to gaze in the contemplation of country life; and without these last in due keeping with the chief structures of the estate, a blank is left in its completeness and finish. The little embellishments which may be given, by way of architectural arrangement, or the conveniences in accommodation, are, in almost all cases, appreciated by those who occupy them, and have an influence upon their character and conduct; while the trifling decorations which may be added in the way of shrubbery, trees, and flowering plants, costing little or nothing in their planting and keeping, give a charm to the humblest abode.
209 A landed estate, no matter its size, with a respectable farmhouse, designed in its own distinctive style, and complemented by its surrounding cottages, either nearby or distant, built in their appropriate character, creates a perfect picture for anyone who enjoys the idea of country life. Without these cottages in harmony with the main buildings of the estate, the overall look feels incomplete. The small improvements that can be made through architectural design or comfort enhancements are usually appreciated by the residents and can influence their behavior and personality; while even minor decorations, like shrubs, trees, and flowering plants that cost little to plant and maintain, add charm to even the simplest home.
The position of cottages on a farm should be controlled by considerations of convenience to the place of labor, and a proper economy in their construction; and hardly a site can be inappropriate which ensures these requirements. In the plans which are submitted, due attention has been paid to the comfort of those who inhabit them, as well as to picturesque effect in the cottage itself. Decency, order, and respectability are thus given to the estate, and to those who inhabit the cottages upon it, as well as to those whose more fortunate position in life has given the enjoyment of a higher luxury in the occupancy of its chief mansion.
The placement of cottages on a farm should be based on convenience to work areas and efficient construction costs; it's tough to find a spot that doesn't meet these needs. The submitted plans focus on the comfort of the residents and also the attractive design of the cottages. This ensures decency, order, and respectability for the estate and its cottage inhabitants, as well as for those who are more privileged and enjoy the luxuries of the main house.
210 On all estates where the principal dwelling is located at any considerable distance from the public road, or where approached by a side road shut off from the highway by a gate, a small cottage, by way of lodge, or laborer's tenement, should be located at or near the entrance. Such appendage is not only ornamental in itself, but gives character to the place, and security to the enclosure; in guarding it from improper intrusion, as well as to receive and conduct into the premises those who either reside upon, or have business within it. It is thus a sort of sentry-box, as well as a laborer's residence.
210 On all properties where the main house is situated a significant distance from the main road, or accessed via a side road closed off from the highway by a gate, a small cottage, serving as a lodge or worker's residence, should be placed at or near the entrance. This addition not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the property but also adds character and security to the area; it protects against unauthorized entry while also welcoming those who live on or need to visit the property. It essentially functions as both a guard station and a worker's home.
ELEVATION
Elevation
COTTAGE Pages 211-212.
COTTAGE Pages 211-212.
Design I.
This cottage is 10 feet high, from the sill to the plates, and may be built of wood, with a slight frame composed of sills and plates only, and planked up and down (vertically) and battened; or grooved and tongued, and matched close together; or it may be framed throughout with posts and studs, and covered with rough boards, and over these clapboards, and lathed and plastered inside. The first mode would be the cheapest, although not so warm and durable as the other, yet quite comfortable when warmed by a stove. On the second plan of building, it will cost near or quite double the amount of the first, if neatly painted. A small brick chimney should rest upon the floor overhead, in the side of which, at least a foot above the chamber floor, should be inserted an earthen or iron thimble, to receive the stovepipe and guard against fire; unless a flat stone, 14 to 16 inches square, and 2 to 4 inches thick, with a pipe-hole—which is the better plan—should rest on the floor immediately over the pipe. This stone should be, also, the foundation of the chimney, which should pass immediately up through the ridge of the roof, and, for effect, in the center longitudinally, of the house. Such position 214 will not interfere with the location of the stove, which may be placed in any part of the room, the pipe reaching the chimney by one or more elbows.
This cottage is 10 feet tall, from the sill to the plates, and can be made of wood, built with a simple frame made of just sills and plates, with vertical planking and battens; or it can be grooved and tongued, with pieces fitting together closely; or it may be fully framed with posts and studs, covered with rough boards, and then topped with clapboards, lathed, and plastered inside. The first option would be the cheapest, though it isn’t as warm or durable as the others, but it’s still pretty comfortable when heated by a stove. The second building method will likely cost about double the first if painted nicely. A small brick chimney should sit on the floor above, with an earthen or iron thimble installed at least a foot above the chamber floor to accept the stovepipe and prevent fires; unless you opt for a flat stone, 14 to 16 inches square and 2 to 4 inches thick, with a pipe hole—which is the better option—sitting directly over the pipe on the floor. This stone should also serve as the base of the chimney, which should go straight up through the ridge of the roof and ideally positioned in the center along the length of the house. This placement won’t hinder where the stove can go, which can be set in any part of the room, with the pipe reaching the chimney through one or more elbows. 214
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
PLAN
PLAN
The main body of this cottage is 18×12 feet, with a lean-to, 8 feet wide, running its whole length in rear. This lean-to may be 8 or 9 inches lower, on the floor, than the main room, and divided into a passage, (leading to an open wood-house in rear, 10×12 feet, with a shed roof,) a large closet, and a bedroom, as may be required; or, the passage end may be left open at the side, for a wood shelter, or other useful purpose. The roof, which is raftered, boarded, and shingled in the usual mode, is well spread over the gables, as well as over the front and rear—say 18 inches. The porch in front will give additional convenience in summer, as a place to sit, or eat under, and its posts so fitted with grooves as to let in rough planks for winter enclosure in front and at one end, leaving the entrance only, at the least windy, or stormy side. The extra cost of such preparation, with the planks, which should be 1¼ or 1½ inches thick, and jointed, would not exceed ten or fifteen dollars. This would make an admirable wood-house for the winter, and a perfect snuggery for a small family. While in its summer dress, with the porch opened—the planks taken out and laid overhead, across the beams connecting the porch with the house—it would present an object of quiet comfort and beauty. A hop vine or honeysuckle 215 might be trained outside the posts, and give it all the shade required.
The main part of this cottage measures 18×12 feet, with a lean-to that is 8 feet wide running the entire length at the back. This lean-to can be about 8 or 9 inches lower on the floor than the main room and can be divided into a passage (leading to an open wood shed at the back, which is 10×12 feet with a shed roof), a large closet, and a bedroom as needed. Alternatively, the passage end can be left open on the side for a wood shelter or other useful purpose. The roof, which is framed, boarded, and shingled in the usual way, extends well over the gables, as well as the front and back—approximately 18 inches. The front porch will provide extra convenience in the summer, serving as a space to sit or eat, and its posts are designed with grooves to allow for rough planks for winter enclosure at the front and one end, leaving only the entrance clear on the least windy or stormy side. The additional cost for this preparation, including the planks, which should be 1¼ or 1½ inches thick and fitted together, would not exceed ten to fifteen dollars. This would create an excellent wood house for winter and a cozy retreat for a small family. In the summer, with the porch open and the planks stored overhead across the beams connecting the porch to the house, it would look like a serene and beautiful place. A hop vine or honeysuckle could be grown along the posts to provide all the necessary shade.
In a stony country, where the adjoining enclosures are of stone, this cottage may be built of stone, also, at about double the cost of wood. This would save the expense of paint, or wash of any kind, besides the greater character of durability and substance it would add to the establishment. Trees, of course, should shelter it; and any little out-buildings that may be required should be nestled under a screen of vines and shrubbery near by.
In a rocky area, where the surrounding fences are made of stone, this cottage could also be made of stone, but it would cost about twice as much as wood. This would eliminate the need for painting or any kind of finish, plus it would give the place a stronger, more lasting character. Ideally, it should be shaded by trees, and any small outbuildings that are needed should be tucked away behind a screen of vines and bushes nearby.
This being designed as the humblest and cheapest kind of cottage, where the family occupy only a single room, the cost would be small. On the plan first named, stained with a coarse wash, it could be built for $100. On the second plan, well-framed of sills, plates, posts, studs, &c. &c., covered with vertical boarding and battens, or clapboarded, and well painted in oil, it might cost $150 to $200. Stone, or brick, without paint, would add but little, if anything in cost over the last sum. The ceiling of the main floor is 8 feet high, and a low chamber or garret is afforded above it, into which a swing-step ladder ascends; and when not in use, it may be hung to the ceiling overhead by a common hook and staples.
This is designed to be the simplest and most affordable type of cottage, where the family lives in just one room, so the cost would be low. According to the first plan, washed with a rough finish, it could be built for $100. The second plan, well-constructed with sills, plates, posts, studs, etc., covered with vertical siding and battens, or clapboarded and nicely painted in oil, could cost between $150 and $200. Using stone or brick without paint wouldn't significantly increase the cost beyond that amount. The ceiling of the main floor is 8 feet high, and there's a small attic or loft above it, which can be reached by a pull-down ladder. When not in use, the ladder can be hung from the ceiling using a regular hook and staples.
ELEVATION
ELEVATION
COTTAGE Pages 217-218.
COTTAGE Pages 217-218.
Design II.
This cottage is a grade beyond the one just described, both in appearance and accommodation. It is 20×16 feet on the ground, with a rear wing 26×8 feet in area. The main body is 10 feet high, to the roof, vertically boarded and battened. A snug, half-open (or it may be closed, as convenience may require,) porch shelters the front door, 5×4 feet in area. The cottage has a square or hipped roof, of a 30° pitch from a horizontal line, which spreads full two feet over the walls and bracketed beneath. The rear wing retreats two feet from the wall line of the main building, and has also a hipped roof of the same pitch as the main one, with eight-feet posts. The open end of the wing advances 6 feet toward the front of the main part for wood-house and storage. The construction of this is in the same style as Design I. The windows are plain, two-sashed, of six lights each, 8×12 glass in front, and 8×10 in the rear.
This cottage is a step up from the one previously described, both in style and functionality. It measures 20×16 feet at the base, with a back wing that is 26×8 feet. The main structure stands 10 feet tall to the roof, featuring vertical boards and battens. A cozy, half-open porch (which can be closed if needed) protects the front door, which is 5×4 feet in size. The cottage has a square or hipped roof with a 30° pitch from a horizontal line, extending two feet over the walls and supported by brackets underneath. The back wing is set back two feet from the main building's wall line and also has a hipped roof with the same pitch as the main roof, supported by eight-foot posts. The open end of the wing extends six feet toward the front of the main structure for a wood shed and storage. Its design follows the same style as Design I. The windows are simple, double-hung with six panes each, featuring 8×12 glass in the front and 8×10 in the back.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
PLAN
PLAN
The front door opens into a common living room, 16×12 feet, with two windows, in which is a stove-chimney running up from the main floor next the partition, or placed over it in the chamber, and running 219 up through the center of the roof. On one side of the living room is a bedroom, 10×8 feet, with two windows. Next to this bedroom is a large closet, 8×6 feet, with one window, and shelves, and tight cupboard within. These rooms are 9 feet high, and over them is a chamber, or garret, 20×16 feet, entered by a swing step ladder, as in Design No. I. This garret is lighted by a small dormer window in the rear roof, over the shed or lean-to. A bed may be located in this chamber, or it may serve as a storage and lumber-room.
The front door opens into a shared living room, measuring 16 by 12 feet, with two windows. There's a stove chimney that rises from the main floor next to the partition, or positioned above it in the bedroom, and it goes up through the center of the roof. On one side of the living room is a bedroom, 10 by 8 feet, which has two windows. Next to this bedroom is a large closet, 8 by 6 feet, featuring one window, along with shelves and a built-in cupboard. These rooms have a ceiling height of 9 feet, and above them is a lofted space, or attic, measuring 20 by 16 feet, accessed by a folding ladder, just like in Design No. I. This attic is illuminated by a small dormer window on the back roof, above the shed or lean-to. A bed can be set up in this attic, or it can be used as a storage and lumber room.
The wing contains a small kitchen, in case the living room be not occupied for that purpose, 10×8 feet, lighted by a side-window, and having a small chimney in the rear wall. It may contain, also, a small closet, 3 feet square. A door passes from this small kitchen into the wood-house, which is 16×8 feet, or with its advance L, 14 feet, in the extreme outer corner of which is a water-closet, 5×3 feet; thus, altogether, giving accommodation to a family of five or six persons.
The wing features a small kitchen, in case the living room isn't being used for that purpose, measuring 10×8 feet, lit by a side window, and equipped with a small chimney in the back wall. It may also include a small closet, 3 feet square. A door leads from this small kitchen into the wood-house, which is 16×8 feet, or 14 feet with its L-shaped extension, with a water closet in the far corner measuring 5×3 feet; thus, providing enough space for a family of five or six people.
The construction of this cottage is shown as of wood. Other material, either brick or stone, may be used, as most convenient, at a not much increased cost. The expense of this building may be, say fifty per cent. higher than that of No. I, according to the finish, and may be sufficiently well done and painted complete for $300; which may be reduced or increased, according to the style of finish and the taste of the builder.
The cottage is designed to be made of wood. However, brick or stone can also be used, depending on what’s most convenient, without a significant increase in cost. The total expense for building this cottage may be about fifty percent higher than that of No. I, based on the finish. It can be well constructed and fully painted for around $300, though this price can vary up or down based on the finishing style and the builder's preferences.
A cellar may be made under this cottage, which can be reached by a trap-door from the living room, opening to a flight of steps below.
A cellar can be built under this cottage, accessible through a trap-door in the living room that leads to a set of stairs below.
ELEVATION
ELEVATION
COTTAGE Pages 221-222.
COTTAGE Pages 221-222.
Design III.
This cottage is still in advance of No. II, in style and arrangement, and may accommodate not only the farm laborer or gardener, but will serve for a small farmer himself, or a village mechanic. It is in the French style of roof, and allied to the Italian in its brackets, and gables, and half-terraced front. The body of the cottage is 22×20 feet, with twelve-feet posts; the roof has a pitch of 50° from a horizontal line, in its straight dimensions, curving horizontally toward the eaves, which, together with the gables, project 3 feet over the walls. The terrace in front is 5 feet wide. On the rear is a wood-house, 18×16 feet in area, open at the house end, and in front, with a roof in same style as the main house, and posts, 8 feet high, standing on the ground, 2 feet below the surface of the cellar wall, which supports the main building.
This cottage is still ahead of No. II in design and layout, and it can accommodate not just farm workers or gardeners, but also a small farmer or a local mechanic. It has a French-style roof and Italian-style brackets and gables, along with a half-terraced front. The main part of the cottage measures 22×20 feet, with 12-foot posts; the roof has a pitch of 50° from a horizontal line, curving horizontally toward the eaves, which, along with the gables, extend 3 feet over the walls. The front terrace is 5 feet wide. At the back, there’s a wood shed measuring 18×16 feet, open at the house end and in the front, with a roof that matches the main house's style and posts that are 8 feet high, sitting 2 feet below the cellar wall that supports the main building.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
PLAN
PLAN
The front door opens, in the center of the front wall, into a hall, 12×8 feet, with a flight of stairs on one side, leading to the chamber above; under the stairs, at the upper end, is a passage leading beneath them into the cellar. On one side of this hall is a bedroom 223 8×10 feet, lighted by a window in front, and part of the hooded double window on the side. On the inner side, a door leads from the hall into the living room or kitchen, 18×12 feet. On one side of this is a bedroom, or pantry, as may be most desirable, 9×6 feet, from which leads a close closet, 3 feet square. This bedroom has a window on one side, next the hall. A door from the kitchen leads into a closet, 3 feet wide, which may contain a sink, and cupboard for kitchen wares. The living room is lighted by a part of the double hooded window on one side, and another on the rear. A door leads into the wood-house, which is 12×16 feet, in the extreme corner of which is the water-closet, 5×3 feet. The rooms in this cottage are 9 feet high. A chimney leads up from the floor of the living room, which may receive, in addition to its own fireplace, or stove, a pipe from the stove in the hall, if one is placed there.
The front door opens in the center of the front wall into a hall, 12×8 feet, with a flight of stairs on one side leading to the room above; under the stairs, at the upper end, is a passage that goes beneath them into the cellar. On one side of this hall is a bedroom, 223 8×10 feet, lighted by a window in front and part of the hooded double window on the side. On the inner side, a door opens from the hall into the living room or kitchen, 18×12 feet. On one side of this space is a bedroom or pantry, depending on what is more desirable, 9×6 feet, which has a small closet, 3 feet square. This bedroom has a window on one side, next to the hall. A door from the kitchen leads into a closet, 3 feet wide, which may include a sink and cupboard for kitchen supplies. The living room is lit by part of the double hooded window on one side and another on the back. A door leads into the wood shed, which is 12×16 feet, and in the far corner of this space is the restroom, 5×3 feet. The rooms in this cottage are 9 feet high. A chimney rises from the floor of the living room, which can accommodate, in addition to its own fireplace or stove, a pipe from the stove in the hall if one is installed there.
The chamber has two feet of perpendicular wall, and the sharp roof gives opportunity for two good lodging rooms, which may be partitioned off as convenience may require, each lighted by a window in the gables, and a dormer one in the roof, for the passage leading into them.
The room has two feet of straight wall, and the sloped roof allows for two nice bedrooms, which can be divided as needed. Each room has a window in the gables and a dormer window in the roof, leading into them.
The hall may serve as a pleasant sitting or dining-room, in pleasant weather, opening, as it does, on to the terrace, which is mostly sheltered by the overhanging roof.
The hall can be a nice sitting or dining room in good weather, as it opens up to the terrace, which is mostly protected by the overhanging roof.
The construction of this cottage may be of either stone, brick, or wood, and produce a fine effect. Although it has neither porch, nor veranda, the broad 224 eaves and gables give it a well-sheltered appearance, and the hooded windows on the sides throw an air of protection over them, quite agreeable to the eye. The framing of this roof is no way different, in the rafters, from those made on straight lines, but the curve and projection is given by planks cut into proper shape, and spiked into the rafters, and apparently supported by the brackets below, which should be cut from two to three-inch plank, to give them a heavy and substantial appearance. The windows are in casement form, as shown in the design, but may be changed into the ordinary sash form, if preferred, which is, in this country, usually the better way. It will be observed, that we have in all cases adopted the usual square-sided form of glass for windows, as altogether more convenient and economical in building, simple in repairing, and, we think, quite as agreeable in appearance, as those out-of-the-way shapes frequently adopted to give a more picturesque effect.
The cottage can be made of stone, brick, or wood, creating a nice look. Even though it doesn’t have a porch or veranda, the wide eaves and gables make it look well-protected, and the hooded windows on the sides add a sense of security that’s quite pleasing to the eye. The roof framing isn’t different from those built with straight lines; the curve and overhang are created by planks cut to shape and nailed into the rafters, which seem to be supported by brackets below. These brackets should be made from two to three-inch planks to give them a solid, substantial look. The windows are designed as casements, but they can be switched to standard sash form if preferred, which is usually the better option in this country. It’s worth noting that we’ve used the typical square-shaped glass for the windows, as it’s more convenient and cost-effective for construction, easier to repair, and we believe it looks just as good as the more unusual shapes often used for a more decorative effect.
In a hilly, mountainous, and evergreen country, this style of cottage is peculiarly appropriate. It takes additional character from bold and picturesque scenery, with which it is in harmony. The pine, spruce, cedar, or hemlock, or the evergreen laurel, planted around or near it, will give it increased effect, while among deciduous trees and shrubs, an occasional Lombardy poplar, and larch, will harmonize with the boldness of its outline. Even where hill or mountain scenery is wanting, plantations such as have been named, would render it a pleasing style of cottage, and give agreeable effect to its bold, sharp roof and projecting eaves.
In a hilly, mountainous, and evergreen area, this type of cottage is especially fitting. It gains additional character from the striking and beautiful scenery that complements it. The pine, spruce, cedar, or hemlock, as well as the evergreen laurel planted around or nearby, will enhance its appearance, while deciduous trees and shrubs, along with an occasional Lombardy poplar and larch, will blend well with the boldness of its shape. Even without hill or mountain scenery, such plantings would make it an attractive style of cottage and enhance the appealing look of its sharp roof and overhanging eaves.
225 In a snowy country, the plan of roof here presented is well adapted to the shedding of heavy snows, on which it can find no protracted lodgment. Where massive stone walls enclose the estate, this style of cottage will be in character, as comporting with that strong and solid air which the rustic appearance of stone alone can give. It may, too, receive the same amount of outer decoration, in its shrubbery and plantations, given to any other style of building of like accommodation, and with an equally agreeable effect.
225 In a snowy region, the roof design presented here is perfect for shedding heavy snow, as it won't hold onto it for long. When surrounded by sturdy stone walls, this type of cottage will fit in well, matching the strong and solid vibe that only the rustic look of stone can provide. It can also have the same amount of exterior decoration, with shrubs and plants, as any other style of building with similar features, resulting in just as pleasant an effect.
ELEVATION
ELEVATION
COTTAGE Pages 227-228.
COTTAGE Pages 227-228.
Design IV.
This cottage is still in advance of the last, in its accommodation, and is suitable for the small farmer, or the more liberal cottager, who requires wider room, and ampler conveniences than are allowed by the hitherto described structures. It is a first class dwelling, of its kind, and, in its details and finish, may be adapted to a variety of occupation, while it will afford a sufficient amount of expenditure to gratify a liberal outlay, to him who chooses to indulge his taste in a moderate extent of decoration and embellishment.
This cottage is an upgrade from the previous one in terms of its layout and is perfect for a small farmer or a more upscale tenant who needs more space and better amenities than those offered by the earlier buildings. It’s a top-notch home for its type, and its design and finishing touches can accommodate various uses. It also allows for enough spending to satisfy someone who wants to enjoy a moderate amount of decoration and enhancement.
The ground plan of this cottage is 30×22 feet, in light rural-Gothic style, one and a half stories high, the posts 14 feet in elevation. It has two chimneys, passing out through the roof on each side of the ridge, uniformly, each with the other. The roof has a pitch of 45° from a horizontal line, giving it a bold and rather dashing appearance, and deeply sheltering the walls. The side gables give variety to the roof, and light to the chambers, and add to the finish of its appearance; while the sharp arched double window in the front gable adds character to the design.
The layout of this cottage measures 30×22 feet, featuring a light rural-Gothic style and standing one and a half stories tall, with posts that rise 14 feet. It has two chimneys that extend through the roof on either side of the ridge, matching each other perfectly. The roof has a 45° pitch from a horizontal line, giving it a striking and somewhat bold look while providing ample shelter for the walls. The side gables add variety to the roof, bring light into the rooms, and enhance its overall appearance; meanwhile, the sharply arched double window in the front gable adds character to the design.
The deep veranda in front covers three-quarters of its surface in length, and in the symmetry of its roof, and airiness of its columns, with their light braces, 229 give it a style of completeness; and if creeping vines or climbing shrubs be trained upon them, will produce an effect altogether rural and beautiful.
The spacious veranda out front stretches for three-quarters of its length, and with the balanced design of its roof and the openness of its columns, along with their delicate supports, 229 it has a sense of completeness. If climbing plants or vines are grown on them, it creates a charming and rustic look.
Or, if a rustic style of finish be adopted, to render it cheaper in construction, the effect may still be imposing, and in harmony with the purposes to which it is designed. In fact, this model will admit of a variety of choice in finish, from the plainest to a high degree of embellishment, as the ability or fancy of the builder may suggest.
Or, if a simple style is chosen to make it cheaper to build, it can still have a strong impact and align well with its intended use. In fact, this design allows for a wide range of finishing options, from very basic to highly decorated, depending on the builder's skills or preferences.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
PLAN
PLAN
From the veranda in the center of the front, a door opens into a hall, 17×7 feet, with a flight of stairs leading, in three different angles, to the chambers above. Opposite the front door is the passage into the living room, or parlor, 17×15 feet, lighted by three windows, two of which present an agreeable view of an adjacent stream and its opposite shores. At the line of partition from the hall, stands a chimney, with a fireplace, if desirable, or for a stove, to accommodate both this room and the hall with a like convenience; and under the flight of stairs adjoining opens a china closet, with spacious shelves, for the safe-keeping of household comforts. From this room, a door leads into a bedroom, 10×13 feet, lighted by a window opening into the veranda, also accommodated by a stove, which leads into a chimney at its inner partition. Next to this bedroom is the kitchen, 12×13 feet, accommodated with a chimney, where may be inserted an open fireplace, or a stove, as required. In this is a flight of 230 back chamber and cellar stairs. This room is lighted by two windows—one in the side, another in the rear. A door leads from its rear into a large, roomy pantry, 8 feet square, situated in the wing, and lighted by a window. Next to this is a passage, 3 feet in width, leading to the wood-house, (in which the pantry just named is included,) 16×12 feet, with nine-feet posts, and roof pitched like the house, in the extreme corner of which is a water-closet, 5×3 feet. Cornering upon the wood-house beyond, is a small building, 15×12 feet, with ten-feet posts, and a roof in same style as the others—with convenience for a cow and a pig, with each a separate entrance. A flight of stairs leads to the hay-loft above the stables, in the gable of which is the hay-door; and under the stairs is the granary; and to these may be added, inside, a small accommodation for a choice stock of poultry.
From the porch at the front, a door opens into a hall that measures 17 by 7 feet, featuring a staircase that branches off in three different directions to the rooms above. Directly across from the front door is the entryway into the living room, or parlor, which is 17 by 15 feet and gets light from three windows, two of which offer a pleasant view of a nearby stream and its opposite banks. At the dividing line from the hall, there’s a chimney with a fireplace, if desired, or for a stove, serving both this room and the hall conveniently; beneath the staircase nearby is a china closet with ample shelves for storing household items. From the parlor, a door leads into a bedroom measuring 10 by 13 feet, which has a window facing the porch and is also equipped with a stove that connects to a chimney on the inner wall. Adjacent to this bedroom is the kitchen, which is 12 by 13 feet and has a chimney where an open fireplace or a stove can be installed as needed. This room also has a set of stairs leading down to the back chambers and the cellar. It is lit by two windows—one on the side and another at the back. A door at the rear opens into a spacious pantry of 8 feet square, located in the wing and lit by a window. Next to the pantry is a 3-foot wide passage that leads to the wood shed, which also includes the aforementioned pantry, measuring 16 by 12 feet, with nine-foot high posts and a roof that matches the house, with a water closet in the far corner that is 5 by 3 feet. Beyond the wood shed is a small building measuring 15 by 12 feet, with ten-foot posts and a roof in the same style, conveniently designed for a cow and a pig, each with its own separate entrance. A set of stairs leads to the hay loft above the stables, where the gable features a hay door; beneath the stairs is the granary, and there’s also the option for a small area inside for keeping a select group of poultry.
The chamber plan is the same as the lower floor, mainly, giving three good sleeping-rooms; that over the kitchen, being a back chamber, need not have a separate passage into the upper hall, but may have a door passage into the principal chamber. The door to the front bedroom leads direct from the upper hall. Thus, accommodation is given to quite a numerous family. Closets may be placed in each of these chambers, if wanted; and the entire establishment made a most snug and compact, as well as commodious arrangement.
The chamber layout is pretty much the same as the lower floor, providing three decent bedrooms; the one above the kitchen, which is a back chamber, doesn’t need a separate entrance to the upper hall and can connect directly to the main bedroom. The door to the front bedroom comes straight from the upper hall. This setup works well for a larger family. Closets can be added to each of these bedrooms if desired, making the whole place cozy, compact, and quite practical.
COTTAGE OUTSIDE DECORATION.
Nothing so perfectly sets off a cottage, in external appearance, as the presence of plants and shrubbery around it. A large tree or two, by giving an air of protection, is always in place; and creeping vines, and climbing shrubs about the windows and porch, are in true character; while a few low-headed trees, of various kinds, together with some simple and hardy annual and other flowers—to which should always be added, near by, a small, well-tended kitchen garden—fill up the picture.
Nothing enhances the look of a cottage like having plants and shrubs around it. A couple of large trees can create a sense of protection and are always appropriate. Creeping vines and climbing shrubs around the windows and porch fit perfectly, while a few smaller trees of different types, along with some simple, hardy annuals and other flowers—plus a small, well-kept kitchen garden close by—complete the scene.
In the choice of what varieties should compose these ornaments, one can hardly be at a loss. Flanking the cottage, and near the kitchen garden, should be the fruit trees. The elm, maples, oak, and hickory, in all their varieties, black-walnut, butternut—the last all the better for its rich kernel—are every one appropriate for shade, as large trees. The hop, morning-glory, running beans—all useful and ornamental as summer climbers; the clematis, bitter-sweet, ivy, any of the climbing roses; the lilac, syringa, snow-ball, and the standard roses; while marigolds, asters, pinks, 232 the phloxes, peonies, and a few other of the thousand-and-one simple and charming annuals, biennials, and perennials, with now and then a gorgeous sunflower, flaunting in its broad glory, will fill up the catalogue. Rare and costly plants are not required, and indeed, are hardly in place in the grounds of an ordinary cottage, unless occupied by the professional gardener. They denote expense, which the laboring cottager cannot afford; and besides that, they detract from the simplicity of the life and purpose which not only the cottage itself, but everything around it, should express.
In choosing what types of plants should make up these decorations, it's hard to go wrong. Fruit trees should line the cottage, close to the kitchen garden. Elms, maples, oaks, and hickories in all their varieties, as well as black walnuts and butternuts—the latter being especially nice for its rich nut—are all great options for shade as large trees. The hop, morning glory, and running beans are perfect as useful and decorative summer climbers, along with clematis, bittersweet, ivy, and any of the climbing roses; lilacs, syringas, snowballs, and standard roses; plus marigolds, asters, pinks, 232 phloxes, peonies, and a few other simple yet lovely annuals, biennials, and perennials. And now and then, a stunning sunflower, showing off its broad beauty, will complete the list. There’s no need for rare or expensive plants, and they really don’t fit in the grounds of a typical cottage unless a professional gardener is present. They indicate a level of spending that a working-class cottage owner can’t sustain, and besides, they take away from the simplicity of the lifestyle and purpose that both the cottage itself and its surroundings should represent.
There is an affectation of cottage building, with some people who, with a seeming humility, really aim at higher flights of style in living within them, than truth of either design or purpose will admit. But as such cases are more among villagers, and those temporarily retiring from the city for summer residence, the farm cottage has little to do with it. Still, such fancies are contagious, and we have occasionally seen the ambitious cottage, with its covert expression of humility, insinuating itself on to the farm, and for the farmer's own family occupation, too, which at once spoiled, to the eye, the substantial reality of the whole establishment. A farmer should discard all such things as ornamental cottages. They do not belong to the farm. If he live in a cottage himself, it should be a plain one; yet it may be very substantial and well finished—something showing that he means either to be content in it, in its character of plainness, or that he intends, at a future day, to build something better—when this may serve for the habitation of one of his laborers.
There’s a trend of cottage building, where some people, with a fake sense of humility, actually aspire to a more stylish way of living in these places than what the reality of their design or purpose allows. However, this tendency is mostly seen among villagers and those who temporarily escape the city for summer vacations, so it doesn’t really relate to farm cottages. Still, these trends can be infectious, and we’ve occasionally seen the ambitious cottage, with its hidden hint of humility, imposing itself on the farm, affecting even the farmer's own family home, which instantly ruins the substantial reality of the whole place. A farmer should get rid of all those ornamental cottages. They don’t belong on a farm. If he lives in a cottage, it should be a plain one; however, it can still be solid and well built—something that shows he either intends to be comfortable in its simplicity or plans to build something better in the future, with this current cottage serving as a home for one of his workers.
233 The cottage should never occupy a principal, or prominent site on the farm. It should take a subordinate position of ground. This adds to its expression as subordinate in rank, among the lesser farm buildings. A cottage cannot, and should not aspire to be chief in either position or character. Such should be the farm house proper; although unpretending, still, in style, above the cottage; and if the latter, in addition, be required on the farm, it should so appear, both in construction and finish; just what it is intended for—a tenement for economical purposes.
233 The cottage should never occupy a main or important location on the farm. It should occupy a lower position in the landscape. This enhances its representation as lower in status among the smaller farm buildings. A cottage cannot, and should not, aim to be dominant in either status or character. That role should belong to the farmhouse; although modest, it should still be stylistically superior to the cottage. If a cottage is also necessary on the farm, it should reflect that in its design and finish, clearly showing that it is meant for practical living.
There is another kind of cottage, the dwellers in which, these pages will probably never reach, that expresses, in its wild structure, and rude locality, the idea of Moore's pretty song—
There’s another type of cottage, whose residents these pages will likely never reach, that embodies, in its untamed structure and rough surroundings, the idea of Moore's charming song—
"I knew by the smoke that so gracefully curled
Above the green elms, that a cottage was near."
"I could tell by the smoke that curled so gracefully
Above the green elms that a cottage was nearby."
Yet, in some parts of our country, landlords may build such, for the accommodation of tenants, which they may make useful on the outskirts of their estates, and add indirectly to their own convenience and interest in so doing. This may be indulged in, poetically too—for almost any thinking man has a spice of poetry in his composition—vagabondism, a strict, economizing utilitarian would call it. The name matters not. One may as well indulge his taste in this cheap sort of charitable expenditure, as another may indulge, in his dogs, and guns, his horses and equipages—and the first is far the cheapest. They, at the west and south, understand this, whose recreations are occasionally 234 with their hounds, in chase of the deer, and the fox, and in their pursuit spend weeks of the fall and winter months, in which they are accompanied, and assisted, as boon companions for the time, by the rude tenants of the cottages we have described:
Yet, in some areas of our country, landlords might build such facilities for the benefit of tenants, which they can use on the outskirts of their properties, and this indirectly adds to their own convenience and interests by doing so. This could be seen as a kind of poetry—since nearly every thoughtful person has a bit of poetry in them—while a strict, practical utilitarian might label it as vagabondism. The label doesn’t matter. One can indulge in this inexpensive type of charitable spending just as others might spoil themselves with dogs, guns, horses, and carriages—and the former is definitely the cheaper option. Those in the west and south get this, as their recreational activities sometimes involve chasing deer and foxes with their hounds, spending weeks in the fall and winter months alongside the rough tenants of the cottages we've mentioned, who join them as companions during this time: 234
"A cheerful, simple, honest people."
"Cheerful, simple, honest people."
Another class of cottage may come within the farm enclosures, half poetical, and half economical, such as Milton describes:
Another type of cottage might fit within the farm boundaries, being part poetic and part practical, like the one Milton describes:
"Hard by a cottage chimney smokes,
From betwixt two aged oaks;"
"Near a cottage, smoke rises from the chimney,
Between two old oak trees;"
and occupied by a family pensioner and his infirm old wife—we don't think all "poor old folks" ought to go to the alms-house, because they cannot work every day of the year—of which all long-settled families of good estate have, now and then, one near to, or upon their premises. Thousands of kind and liberal hearts among our farming and planting brethren, whose impulses are—
and lived in by a retired family member and his elderly, unwell wife—we don't believe all "poor old folks" should end up in a nursing home just because they can't work every day of the year—of which all long-established families of good means have, occasionally, one close to or on their property. There are thousands of kind and generous individuals among our farming and planting neighbors, whose instincts are—
"Open as the day to melting charity,"
"Open like the day to overflowing kindness,"
are familiar with the wants of those who are thus made their dependents; and in their accommodation, an eye may be kept to the producing of an agreeable effect in locating their habitations, and to rudely embellish, rather than to mar the domain on which they may be lodged.
are familiar with the needs of those who depend on them; and in arranging their living spaces, attention can be paid to creating a pleasing environment for their homes, and to simply enhancing, rather than ruining, the area where they reside.
In short, cottage architecture, in its proper character, may be made as effective, in all the ornament which it should give to the farm, as that of any other structure; 235 and if those who have occasion for the cottage will only be content to build and maintain it as it should be, and leave off that perpetual aspiration after something unnatural, and foreign to its purpose, which so many cottage builders of the day attempt, and let it stand in its own humble, secluded character, they will save themselves a world of trouble, and pass for—what they now do not—men possessing a taste for truth and propriety in their endeavors.
In short, cottage architecture, when done right, can be just as impactful in enhancing the farm's look as any other type of building; 235 and if those who need a cottage would just accept that it should be built and maintained properly, and stop striving for something unnatural and unrelated to its purpose, which so many cottage builders today do, and allow it to exist in its own simple, private style, they would save themselves a lot of hassle and be seen as—what they currently are not—people with a taste for authenticity and appropriateness in their efforts.
HOUSE AND COTTAGE FURNITURE.
This is a subject so thoroughly discussed in the books, of late, that anything which may here be said, would avail but little, inasmuch as our opinions might be looked upon as "old-fashioned," "out of date," and "of no account whatever,"—for wonderfully modern notions in room-furnishing have crept into the farm house, as well as into town houses. Indeed, we confess to altogether ancient opinions in regard to household furniture, and contend, that, with a few exceptions, "modern degeneracy" has reached the utmost stretch of absurdity, in house-furnishing, to which the ingenuity of man can arrive. Fashions in furniture change about as often as the cut of a lady's dress, or the shape of her bonnet, and pretty much from the same source, 236 too—the fancy shops of Paré, once, in good old English, Paris, the capital city of France. A farmer, rich or poor, may spend half his annual income, every year of his life, in taking down old, and putting up new furniture, and be kept uncomfortable all the time; when, if he will, after a quiet, good-tempered talk with his better-half, agree with her upon the list of necessary articles to make them really comfortable; and then a catalogue of what shall comprise the luxurious part of their furnishings, which, when provided, they will fixedly make up their mind to keep, and be content with, they will remain entirely free from one great source of "the ills which flesh is heir to."
This topic has been discussed so much in recent books that anything said here would hardly make an impact, as our views might be seen as "old-fashioned," "out of date," and "not worth considering"—since extremely modern ideas about home decor have infiltrated both farmhouses and city homes. Honestly, we admit to having quite outdated opinions about household furniture and argue that, with a few exceptions, "modern degeneration" has reached the peak of absurdity in home furnishing, pushed by human creativity. Furniture trends change as frequently as women's fashion, like the cut of a dress or the shape of a hat, and they often come from the same sources, such as the trendy shops in Paré, formerly known as Paris, the capital city of France. A farmer, whether wealthy or poor, can spend half of his annual income each year on swapping out old furniture for new, leaving him uncomfortable the entire time. However, if he takes a calm and agreeable discussion with his partner to agree on a list of necessary items for true comfort, along with a plan for the luxury pieces they wish to have, and then commits to keeping those items, they can avoid one major source of "the troubles that flesh is heir to." 236
It is pleasant to see a young couple setting out in their housekeeping life, well provided with convenient and properly-selected furniture, appropriate to all the uses of the family; and then to keep, and use it, and enjoy it, like contented, sensible people; adding to it, now and then, as its wear, or the increasing wants of their family may require. Old, familiar things, to which we have long been accustomed, and habituated, make up a round share of our actual enjoyment. A family addicted to constant change in their household furniture, attached to nothing, content with nothing, and looking with anxiety to the next change of fashion which shall introduce something new into the house, can take no sort of comfort, let their circumstances be ever so affluent. It is a kind of dissipation in which some otherwise worthy people are prone to indulge, but altogether pernicious in the indulgence. It detracts, also, from the apparent respectability of a family 237 to find nothing old about them—as if they themselves were of yesterday, and newly dusted out of a modern shop-keeper's stock in trade. The furniture of a house ought to look as though the family within it once had a grandfather—and as if old things had some veneration from those who had long enjoyed their service.
It's nice to see a young couple starting their life together, well-supplied with practical and thoughtfully chosen furniture that's suitable for all their family needs. They can enjoy using it like happy, reasonable people, adding to it now and then as wear and the growing needs of their family require. Familiar items that we're used to contribute a big part of our actual enjoyment. A family that constantly changes their furniture, feels attached to nothing, satisfied with nothing, and anxiously waiting for the next trend to bring something new into their home can find no real comfort, no matter how wealthy they might be. This kind of behavior can lead some otherwise decent people to indulge in it, but it’s ultimately harmful. It also takes away from the perceived respectability of a family to have nothing old around them—as if they themselves just appeared and came straight out of a modern shop. The furniture in a home should look like it belongs to a family that once had a grandfather—and like the old items are respected by those who have enjoyed them for a long time. 237
We are not about to dictate, of what fashion household furniture should be, when selected, any further than that of a plain, substantial, and commodious fashion, and that it should comport, so far as those requirements in it will admit, with the approved modes of the day. But we are free to say, that in these times the extreme of absurdity, and unfitness for use, is more the fashion than anything else. What so useless as the modern French chairs, standing on legs like pipe-stems, garote-ing your back like a rheumatism, and frail as the legs of a spider beneath you, as you sit in it; and a tribe of equally worthless incumbrances, which absorb your money in their cost, and detract from your comfort, instead of adding to it, when you have got them; or a bedstead so high that you must have a ladder to climb into it, or so low as to scarcely keep you above the level of the floor, when lying on it. No; give us the substantial, the easy, the free, and enjoyable articles, and the rest may go to tickle the fancy of those who have a taste for them. Nor do these flashy furnishings add to one's rank in society, or to the good opinion of those whose consideration is most valuable. Look into the houses of those people who are the really substantial, and worthy of the land. There will be found little of such frippery with them. 238 Old furniture, well-preserved, useful in everything, mark the well-ordered arrangement of their rooms, and give an air of quietude, of comfort, and of hospitality to their apartments. Children cling to such objects in after life, as heir-looms of affection and parental regard.
We’re not here to dictate how household furniture should look, other than to say it should be simple, sturdy, and comfortable, and as much as possible, align with the styles of the day. However, we can confidently say that these days, the height of absurdity and impracticality is more in style than anything else. What could be more useless than modern French chairs, which stand on thin legs and pinch your back like a bad case of rheumatism, and are as fragile as a spider’s legs? They not only cost you a fortune but also take away from your comfort instead of adding to it. Or consider beds that are so high you need a ladder to get into them, or so low that you’re almost lying on the floor. No, we prefer furniture that is sturdy, easy to use, and enjoyable, while the rest can be left to those who have a taste for it. Plus, these flashy pieces don’t elevate your status in society or earn you the respect of people whose opinions matter most. Take a look at the homes of truly respected individuals; you won’t find much of that flashy nonsense there. Instead, you’ll see well-preserved, practical old furniture that reflects an organized arrangement of their spaces, offering an atmosphere of calm, comfort, and hospitality. Children hold onto such items throughout their lives as cherished heirlooms of love and parental care. 238
Although we decline to give specific directions about what varieties of furniture should constitute the furnishings of a house, or to illustrate its style or fashion by drawings, and content ourself with the single remark, that it should, in all cases, be strong, plain, and durable—no sham, nor ostentation about it—and such as is made for use: mere trinkets stuck about the room, on center tables, in corners, or on the mantel-piece, are the foolishest things imaginable. They are costly; they require a world of care, to keep them in condition; and then, with all this care, they are good for nothing, in any sensible use. We have frequently been into a country house, where we anticipated better things, and, on being introduced into the "parlor," actually found everything in the furniture line so dainty and "prinked up," that we were afraid to sit down on the frail things stuck around by way of seats, for fear of breaking them; and everything about it looked so gingerly and inhospitable, that we felt an absolute relief when we could fairly get out of it, and take a place by the wide old fireplace, in the common living room, comfortably ensconced in a good old easy, high-backed, split-bottomed chair—there was positive comfort in that, when in the "parlor" there was nothing but restraint and discomfort. No; leave all this vanity to town-folk, who have nothing better—or 239 who, at least, think they have—to amuse themselves with; it has no fitness for a country dwelling, whatever. All this kind of frippery smacks of the boarding school, the pirouette, and the dancing master, and is out of character for the farm, or the sensible retirement of the country.
Although we won’t provide specific guidelines on what types of furniture should fill a home, or show its style through drawings, we will say that it should always be strong, simple, and durable—nothing fake or flashy—and made for practical use: mere decorations scattered around the room, on coffee tables, in corners, or on the mantelpiece, are the most pointless things you can imagine. They are expensive, require a lot of care to maintain, and even with all that attention, they serve no sensible purpose. We've often visited a country house, expecting better things, and upon entering the "parlor," found all the furniture so delicate and adorned that we felt afraid to sit on the frail pieces, worried we’d break them. Everything looked so fussy and unwelcoming that we felt a huge sense of relief when we could leave and settle in front of the wide old fireplace in the common living room, comfortably nestled in a good old easy chair with a high back and a split-bottom—there was real comfort in that, while the "parlor" offered nothing but restraint and discomfort. No, let all this vanity belong to city folks, who have nothing better—or who at least think they do—to entertain themselves with; it has no place in a country home at all. All this kind of nonsense is like something from a boarding school, a dance class, or a dance teacher, and simply doesn’t fit with farm life or the sensible quiet of the countryside.
In connection with the subject of furniture, a remark may be made on the room arrangement of the house, which might, perhaps, have been more fittingly made when discussing that subject, in the designs of our houses. Some people have a marvellous propensity for introducing into their houses a suite of rooms, connected by wide folding-doors, which must always be opened into each other, furnished just alike, and devoted to extraordinary occasions; thus absolutely sinking the best rooms in the house, for display half a dozen times in the year, and at the sacrifice of the every-day comfort of the family. This is nothing but a bastard taste, of the most worthless kind, introduced from the city—the propriety of which, for city life, need not here be discussed. The presence of such arrangement, in a country house, is fatal to everything like domestic enjoyment, and always followed by great expense and inconvenience. No room, in any house, should be too good for occupation by the family themselves—not every-day, and common-place—but occupation at any and all times, when convenience or pleasure demand it. If a large room be required, let the single room itself be large; not sacrifice an extra room to the occasional extension of the choicer one, as in the use of folding-doors must be done. This "parlor" 240 may be better furnished—and so it should be—than any other room in the house. Its carpet should be not too good to tread, or stand upon, or for the children to roll and tumble upon, provided their shoes and clothes be clean. Let the happy little fellows roll and tumble on it, to their heart's content, when their mother or elder sisters are with them—for it may be, perhaps, the most joyous, and most innocent pleasure of their lives, poor things! The hearth-rug should be in keeping with the carpet, also, and no floor-cloth should be necessary to cover it, for fear of soiling; but everything free and easy, with a comfortable, inviting, hospitable look about it.
In relation to furniture, a comment can be made about the room layout of the house, which might have been more appropriately discussed when talking about that topic in the designs of our homes. Some people have an amazing tendency to create a suite of rooms connected by wide folding doors that are always opened into each other, furnished in the same style, and reserved for special occasions. This approach completely undermines the best rooms in the house, making them available for display only a few times a year, while sacrificing the everyday comfort of the family. This is nothing but a poor taste, the worst kind, imported from the city—its suitability for city life shouldn’t be debated here. Such arrangements in a country house are detrimental to any sense of domestic enjoyment and always result in significant expense and inconvenience. No room in any house should be too nice to be used by the family themselves—not just on special occasions, but available at any time when convenience or pleasure calls for it. If a large room is needed, let that one room be large; there’s no need to sacrifice extra space for the occasional use of the nicer room, as must be done with folding doors. This "parlor" 240 can be better furnished—and it should be—than any other room in the house. Its carpet should be durable enough to walk on, stand on, or let the kids roll around on, as long as their shoes and clothes are clean. Let those happy little ones roll and tumble to their hearts' content, with their mother or older sisters there with them—it might be the happiest and most innocent pleasure of their lives, poor things! The hearth rug should match the carpet, and there shouldn’t be a need for any floor covering to protect it from dirt; everything should feel free and easy, with a warm, inviting, hospitable vibe.
Go into the houses of our great men—such as live in the country—whom God made great, not money—and see how they live. We speak not of statesmen and politicians alone, but great merchants, great scholars, great divines, great mechanics, and all men who, in mind and attainments, are head and shoulder above their class in any of the walks of life, and you find no starch, or flummery about them. We once went out to the country house—he lived there all the time, for that matter—of a distinguished banker of one of our great cities, to dine, and spend the day with him. He had a small farm attached to his dwelling, where he kept his horses and cows, his pigs, and his poultry. He had a large, plain two-story cottage house, with a piazza running on three sides of it, from which a beautiful view of the neighboring city, and water, and land, was seen in nearly all directions. He was an educated man. His father had been a statesman of 241 distinguished ability and station at home, and a diplomatist abroad, and himself educated in the highest circles of business, and of society. His wife, too, was the daughter of a distinguished city merchant, quite his equal in all the accomplishments of life. His own wealth was competent; he was the manager of millions of the wealth of others; and his station in society was of the highest. Yet, with all this claim to pretension, his house did not cost him eight thousand dollars—and he built it by "days-work," too, so as to have it faithfully done; and the furniture in it, aside from library, paintings, and statuary, never cost him three thousand. Every room in it was a plain one, not more highly finished than many a farmer's house can afford. The furniture of every kind was plain, saving, perhaps, the old family plate, and such as he had added to it, which was all substantial, and made for use. The younger children—and of these, younger and older, he had several—we found happy, healthy, cheerful, and frolicking on the carpets; and their worthy mother, in the plainest, yet altogether appropriate garb, was sitting among them, at her family sewing, and kindly welcomed us as we took our seats in front of the open, glowing fireplace. "Why, sir," we exclaimed, rubbing our hands in the comfortable glow of warmth which the fire had given—for it was a cold December day—"you are quite plain, as well as wonderfully comfortable, in your country house—quite different from your former city residence!" "To be sure we are," was the reply; "we stood it as long as we could, amid the starch and the gimcracks of —— 242 street, where we rarely had a day to ourselves, and the children could never go into the streets but they must be tagged and tasselled, in their dress, into all sorts of discomfort, merely for the sake of appearance. So, after standing it as long as we could, my wife and I determined we would try the country, for a while, and see what we could make of it. We kept our town-house, into which we returned for a winter or two; but gave it up for a permanent residence here, with which we are perfectly content. We see here all the friends we want to see; we all enjoy ourselves, and the children are healthy and happy." And this is but a specimen of thousands of families in the enjoyment of country life, including the families of men in the highest station, and possessed of sufficient wealth.
Go into the homes of our influential people—especially those living in the countryside—who are made great by God, not by money—and see how they live. We’re not just talking about politicians and statesmen, but also great merchants, renowned scholars, respected religious leaders, talented tradespeople, and all individuals who stand out in their fields. You’ll find that there’s no pretentiousness or showiness about them. We once visited the countryside home—where he lived all year—of a distinguished banker from one of our major cities to have dinner and spend the day with him. He had a small farm attached to his house, where he kept his horses, cows, pigs, and chickens. He lived in a large, simple two-story cottage with a porch that wrapped around three sides, offering a beautiful view of the nearby city, water, and landscape in almost every direction. He was well-educated; his father had been a respected statesman at home and a diplomat abroad, and he was educated in the best of business and social circles. His wife was also the daughter of a notable city merchant, equally accomplished. He had a comfortable amount of wealth; he managed millions of other people's money, and his social standing was very high. Yet, despite all these claims to status, his house didn’t cost more than eight thousand dollars—and he built it with “day labor” to ensure it was done well; the furniture, excluding the library, paintings, and sculptures, cost him no more than three thousand. Every room in the house was simple, no more luxurious than many farmer's homes. The furniture was plain, except for maybe the old family silverware and a few additions, all substantial and practical. His younger children were happy, healthy, and joyful, playing on the carpets. Their devoted mother, dressed simply but appropriately, sat among them, sewing, and greeted us warmly as we settled in front of the glowing fireplace. "Wow," we said, rubbing our hands in the warmth from the fire on that chilly December day, "you're pretty straightforward yet wonderfully comfortable in your country house—so different from your old city home!" "Absolutely," he replied. "We dealt with it as long as we could, surrounded by the stuffiness and trinkets of —— 242 Street, where we rarely had a day to ourselves, and the kids couldn’t even go out without being dressed to the nines, which made things so uncomfortable just for appearances. So after tolerating it for as long as we could, my wife and I decided to give the country a try and see what we could make of it. We kept our city house and returned for a winter or two, but we ultimately decided to make this our permanent home, and we’re really happy with it. We see all the friends we want, we enjoy ourselves, and the kids are healthy and happy." And this is just one example of thousands of families enjoying country life, including those of high-status individuals with enough wealth.
Why, then, should the farmer ape the fashion, and the frivolity of the butterflies of town life, or permit his family to do it? It is the sheerest possible folly in him to do so. Yet, it is a folly into which many are imperceptibly gliding, and which, if not reformed, will ultimately lead to great discomfort to themselves, and ruin to their families. Let thoughtless people do as they choose. Pay no attention to their extravagance; but watch them for a dozen years, and see how they come out in their fashionable career; and observe the fate of their families, as they get "established" in the like kind of life. He who keeps aloof from such temptation, will then have no cause to regret that he has maintained his own steady course of living, and taught his sons and daughters that a due attention to their own comfort, with economical habits in everything 243 relating to housekeeping, will be to their lasting benefit in future.
Why, then, should the farmer try to imitate the trends and superficiality of the city’s socialites, or allow his family to do so? It's just pure foolishness on his part. Yet, it's a foolishness that many are slowly falling into, and if it doesn’t change, it will ultimately bring discomfort to themselves and ruin to their families. Let careless people act as they wish. Ignore their extravagance; just watch them for a dozen years and see how they fare in their trendy lives; and take note of what happens to their families as they become "settled" in that kind of lifestyle. Those who stay clear of such temptations will have no reason to regret having maintained their steady way of living, and will teach their sons and daughters that paying attention to their own comfort, with frugal habits in all things related to household management, will be of lasting benefit in the future. 243
But, we have said enough to convey the ideas in house-furnishing we would wish to impart; and the reader will do as he, or she, no doubt, would have done, had we not written a word about it—go and select such as may strike their own fancy.
But we’ve said enough to share the ideas about home furnishing that we want to express; and the reader will likely do, as they would have done, if we hadn’t said a word about it—go and choose whatever appeals to them.
We received, a day or two since, a letter from a person at the west, entirely unknown to us, whose ideas so entirely correspond with our own, that we give it a place, as showing that a proper taste does prevail among many people in this country, in regard to buildings, and house-furnishings; and which we trust he will pardon us for publishing, as according entirely with our own views, in conclusion:
We received a letter a day or two ago from someone out west, completely unknown to us, whose ideas align so well with ours that we decided to share it. It shows that a good taste does exist among many people in this country when it comes to buildings and home furnishings. We hope he will forgive us for publishing it, as it reflects our own views perfectly, in conclusion:
——, ——, Ill., Dec. 18, 1851.
——, ——, Ill., Dec. 18, 1851.
Dear Sir,—I received, a few days since, a copy of the first number of a periodical called the "Plough," into which is copied the elevation of a design for a farm house, purporting to be from a forthcoming work of yours, entitled "Rural Architecture." Although a perfect stranger to you, you will perhaps allow me to make one or two suggestions.
Dear Sir/Madam,—A few days ago, I received a copy of the first issue of a magazine called the "Plough," which includes the elevation of a design for a farmhouse, claimed to be from your upcoming work titled "Rural Architecture." Although I don’t know you personally, I hope you’ll consider my few suggestions.
I have seen no work yet, which seems fully to meet the wants of our country people in the matter of furniture. After having built their houses, they need showing how to furnish them in the cheapest, most neat, comfortable, convenient, and substantial manner. The furniture should be designed for use, not merely for show. I would have it plain, but not coarse—just 244 enough for the utmost convenience, but nothing superfluous. The articles of furniture figured, and partially described in the late works on those subjects, are mostly of too elaborate and expensive a cast to be generally introduced into our country houses. There is too much nabobery about them to meet the wants, or suit the taste of the plain American farmer.
I haven't seen any work yet that fully addresses the needs of rural people when it comes to furniture. Once they’ve built their homes, they need guidance on how to furnish them in the most affordable, tidy, comfortable, convenient, and durable way. Furniture should be made for practical use, not just for looks. I envision it as simple, but not rough—enough to be highly functional, but with no unnecessary extras. The furniture items shown and somewhat described in the recent publications on this topic are mostly too intricate and pricey to be commonly used in our country homes. They have too much of a luxurious vibe to fit the needs or tastes of the average American farmer. 244
As to out-houses—the barn, stable, carriage and wagon-house, tool-house, piggery, poultry-house, corn-crib, and granary, (to say nothing of the "rabbit-warren" and "dovecote,")—are necessary appendages of the farm house. Now, as cheapness is one great desideratum with nearly all our new beginners in this western region, it seems to me, that such plans as will conveniently include the greatest number of these under the same roof, will be best suited to their necessities. I do not mean to be understood that, for the sake of the first cost, we should pay no regard to the appearance, or that we should slight our work, or suffer it to be constructed of flimsy or perishable materials: we should not only have an eye to taste and durability, but put in practice the most strict economy.
Regarding outbuildings—the barn, stable, carriage house, tool shed, pigpen, chicken coop, corn crib, and granary, (not to mention the "rabbit warren" and "dovecote")—these are essential additions to the farmhouse. Since affordability is a major concern for most newcomers in this western area, I believe that designs which can conveniently combine the highest number of these structures under one roof will be best suited to their needs. I don’t mean to suggest that we should disregard aesthetics for the sake of saving money, or that we should compromise on quality or allow construction with weak or disposable materials: we should not only focus on style and durability but also practice strict cost-effectiveness.
I hope, in the above matters, you may be able to furnish something better suited to the necessities and means of our plain farmers, than has been done by any of your predecessors.
I hope that, regarding the above issues, you can provide something more suitable to the needs and resources of our simple farmers than anything your predecessors have offered.
I remain, &c., most respectfully yours,
I remain, &c., very respectfully yours,
——, ——.
——, ——.
245 Having completed the series of Designs for dwelling houses, which we had proposed for this work, and followed them out with such remarks as were thought fitting to attend them, we now pass on to the second part of our subject: the out-buildings of the farm, in which are to be accommodated the domestic animals which make up a large item of its economy and management; together with other buildings which are necessary to complete its requirements. We trust that they will be found to be such as the occasion, and the wants of the farmer may demand; and in economy, accommodation, and extent, be serviceable to those for whose benefit they are designed.
245 Now that we’ve finished the series of home designs we intended for this project, along with our relevant comments, we will move on to the second part of our topic: the outbuildings of the farm. These will house the domestic animals that are a significant part of its operation and management, along with other structures needed to meet its requirements. We hope these designs will suit the needs and demands of farmers and will be practical in terms of economy, functionality, and size for those they are meant to benefit.
APIARY.
Bee farm.
GROUND PLAN.
Floor plan.
AN APIARY, OR BEE-HOUSE.
Every farmer should keep bees—provided he have pasturage for them, on his own land, or if a proper range for their food and stores lie in his immediate vicinity. Bees are, beyond any other domestic stock, economical in their keeping, to their owners. Still they require care, and that of no inconsiderable kind, and skill, in their management, not understood by every one who attempts to rear them. They ask no food, they require no assistance, in gathering their daily stores, beyond that of proper housing in the cheapest description of tenement, and with that they are entirely content. Yet, without these, they are a contingent, and sometimes a troublesome appendage to the domestic stock of the farm.
Every farmer should keep bees—if they have enough forage on their own land, or if a suitable food source is nearby. Bees are, more than any other domestic animals, cost-effective for their owners. However, they do need care, and that care requires considerable knowledge and skill that not everyone who tries to raise them possesses. They don’t need food from their owners and don’t require help in collecting their daily supplies, as long as they have proper housing in a simple shelter; with that, they are perfectly happy. But without these, they can become an unpredictable and sometimes troublesome addition to the farm’s domestic stock.
We call them domestic. In one sense they are so; in another, they are as wild and untamed as when buzzing and collecting their sweets in the vineyard of Timnath, where the mighty Sampson took their honey from the carcass of the dead lion; or, as when John the Baptist, clothed with camel's hair, ate "locusts and wild honey" in the arid wastes of Palestine. Although kept in partial bondage for six thousand years, the ruling propensity of the bee is to seek a 247 home and shelter in the forest, when it emerges in a swarm from the parent hive; and no amount of domestic accommodation, or kindness of treatment, will induce it willingly to migrate from its nursery habitation to another by its side, although provided with the choicest comforts to invite its entrance. It will soon fly to the woods, enter a hollow and dilapidated tree, and carve out for itself its future fortunes, amid a world of labor and apparent discomfort. The bee, too, barring its industry, patience, and sweetened labors, is an arrant thief—robbing its nearest neighbors, with impunity, when the strongest, and mercilessly slaughtering its weaker brethren, when standing in the way of its rapacity. It has been extolled for its ingenuity, its patience, its industry, its perseverance, and its virtue. Patience, industry, and perseverance it has, beyond a doubt, and in a wonderful degree; but ingenuity, and virtue, it has none, more than the spider, who spins his worthless web, or the wasp, who stings you when disturbing his labors. Instinct, the bee has, like all animals; but of kind feeling, and gratitude, it has nothing; and with all our vivid nursery remembrance of good Doctor Watts' charming little hymn—
We call them domestic. In one way, they are, but in another, they’re as wild and untamed as when they buzzed and collected their nectar in the vineyard of Timnath, where the mighty Sampson took honey from a dead lion; or as when John the Baptist, dressed in camel’s hair, ate "locusts and wild honey" in the barren lands of Palestine. Even though they’ve been kept in partial captivity for six thousand years, bees still instinctively look for a home and shelter in the forest after they emerge in a swarm from the parent hive; no amount of domestic care or kindness will make them willingly move from their original place to another nearby, even when offered the finest comforts as an invitation. Instead, they quickly fly to the woods, find a hollow and decaying tree, and create their future lives amidst hard work and obvious discomfort. The bee, aside from its hard work, patience, and sweet products, is a complete thief—robber of its closest neighbors without consequence, and it mercilessly takes down weaker bees that get in the way of its greed. It has been praised for its cleverness, patience, hard work, perseverance, and supposed virtue. Without a doubt, it has patience, hard work, and perseverance in abundance; but it has no cleverness or virtue, more than a spider that spins its useless web or a wasp that stings when disturbed. The bee has instincts like all animals; however, it shows no kindness or gratitude, and despite our fond childhood memories of good Doctor Watts' charming little hymn—
"How doth the little busy bee," &c. &c.,
"How does the little busy bee," &c. &c.,
we have long ago set it down as incorrigible to kind treatment, or charitable sympathy, and looked upon it simply as a thing to be treated kindly for the sake of its labors, and as composing one of that delightful family of domestic objects which make our homes attractive, pleasant, and profitable.
we have long accepted that it is unresponsive to kind treatment or charitable sympathy, and we view it simply as something to be treated well for the sake of its work, and as part of that wonderful group of household items that make our homes appealing, cozy, and beneficial.
248 The active labors of the bee, in a bright May or June morning, as they fly, in their busy order, back and forth from their hives, or the soothing hum of their playful hours, in a summer's afternoon, are among the most delightful associations of rural life; and as a luxury to the sight, and the ear, they should be associated with every farmer's home, and with every laborer's cottage, when practicable. And as their due accommodation is to be the object of our present writing, a plan is presented for that object.
248 The hardworking bees, on a bright morning in May or June, buzz back and forth from their hives in their busy routines, and the gentle hum of their playful activities on a summer afternoon create some of the most delightful aspects of country life. They provide a visual and auditory pleasure that should be part of every farmer's home and every laborer's cottage whenever possible. Since we aim to explore how to properly accommodate them, a plan is presented for that purpose.
In many of the modern structures held out for imitation, the bee-house, or apiary, is an expensive, pretentious affair, got up in an ambitious way, with efforts at style, in the semblance of a temple, a pagoda, or other absurdity, the very appearance of which frightens the simple bee from its propriety, and in which we never yet knew a colony of them to become, and remain successful. The insect is, as we have observed, wild and untamable—a savage in its habits, and rude in its temper. It rejects all cultivated appearances, and seeks only its own temporary convenience, together with comfortable room for its stores, and the increase of its kind; and therefore, the more rustic and simple its habitation, the better is it pleased with its position.
In many of the modern designs put forward for imitation, the bee-house or apiary is an expensive, showy affair, dressed up in an ambitious way, resembling a temple, a pagoda, or some other ridiculous structure, the very look of which scares the simple bee away from its natural behavior, and in which we’ve never seen a colony thrive and stay successful. The insect is, as we’ve noted, wild and untamable—primitive in its habits and harsh in its temperament. It shuns all refined appearances and only looks for its own temporary convenience, along with enough space for its food and the growth of its colony; therefore, the more rustic and straightforward its home, the happier it is with its situation.
The bee-house should front upon a sheltered and sunny aspect. It should be near the ground, in a clean and quiet spot, free from the intrusion of other creatures, either human or profane, and undisturbed by noisome smells, and uncouth sounds—for it loathes all these instinctively, and loves nothing so much as the wild beauty of nature itself. The plan here presented 250 is of the plainest and least expensive kind. Nine posts, or crutches, are set into the ground sufficiently deep to hold them firm, and to secure them from heaving out by the frost. The distance of these posts apart may be according to the size of the building, and to give it strength enough to resist the action of the wind. The front posts should be 9 feet high, above the ground; the rear posts should be 7 feet—that a man, with his hat on, may stand upright under them—and 6 feet from the front line. The two end posts directly in the rear of the front corner posts, should be 3 feet back from them, and on a line to accommodate the pitch of the roof from the front to the rear. A light plate is to be fitted on the top line of the front posts; a plate at each end should run back to the posts in rear, and then another cross-plate, or girt, from each one of these middle posts, to the post in rear of all, to meet the plate which surmounts this rear line of posts; and a parallel plate, or rafter, should be laid from the two intermediate posts at the ends, to connect them, and for a central support to the roof. Intermediate central posts should also be placed opposite those in front, to support the central plate, and not exceeding 12 feet apart. A shed roof, of boards, or shingles, tightly laid, should cover the whole, sufficiently projecting over the front, rear, and sides, to give the house abundant shelter, and make it architecturally agreeable to the eye—say 12 to 18 inches, according to its extent. A corner board should drop two feet below the plate, with such finish, by way of ornament, as may be desirable. The ends should be tightly boarded up against 251 the weather, from bottom to top. The rear should also be tightly boarded, from the bottom up to a level with the stand inside, for the hives, and from 15 to 18 inches above that to the roof. Fitted into the space thus left in the rear, should be a light, though substantial, swing door, hung from the upper boarding, made in sections, extending from one post to the other, as the size of the house may determine, and secured with hooks, or buttons, as may be convenient. The outside of the structure is thus completed.
The bee house should face a sheltered and sunny area. It should be close to the ground, in a clean and quiet spot, free from the presence of other creatures, whether human or otherwise, and undisturbed by unpleasant smells and loud noises—since bees instinctively dislike these and thrive on the wild beauty of nature. The design presented here is simple and cost-effective. Nine posts, or supports, should be set deep enough into the ground to keep them stable and prevent them from being pushed out by frost. The spacing of these posts can be adjusted based on the size of the building to ensure it is strong enough to withstand wind. The front posts should be 9 feet high, while the rear posts should be 7 feet—tall enough for a man wearing a hat to stand upright underneath—and 6 feet back from the front line. The two end posts, positioned behind the front corner posts, should be 3 feet back from them in a straight line to match the roof slope from front to back. A light plate should be fitted along the top line of the front posts, with a plate at each end extending back to the rear posts, and another cross-plate, or girts, connecting each of these middle posts to the post at the back, which will support the plate on the back line. There should also be a parallel plate, or rafter, laid between the two end posts for additional central roof support. Intermediate central posts should be placed opposite the front posts to support the central plate, and they should be no more than 12 feet apart. A shed roof made of boards or shingles, tightly arranged, should cover the entire structure, overhanging the front, back, and sides enough to provide ample shelter while also being visually appealing—about 12 to 18 inches, depending on its size. A corner board should extend two feet below the plate, finished with any ornamental details as desired. The ends should be securely boarded against the weather from bottom to top. The rear should also be tightly boarded from the bottom to a level with the inside stand for the hives, extending 15 to 18 inches above that to the roof. In the space left at the rear, a light but sturdy swing door should be installed, hung from the upper boarding and made in sections that extend from one post to the other, depending on the house's size, secured with hooks or buttons as needed. The exterior of the structure is now complete.
The inside arrangement for the hives, may be made in two different ways, as the choice of the apiarian may govern in the mode in which his hives are secured. The most usual is the stand method, which may be made thus: At each angle, equidistant, say 18 to 24 inches, inside, from the rear side and ends of the building—as shown in the ground plan—and opposite to each rear and end post, suspend perpendicularly a line of stout pieces of two-inch plank, 4 inches wide, well spiked on to the rafters above, reaching down within two feet of the ground—which is to hold up the bottom of the stand on which the hives are to rest. From each bottom end of these suspended strips, secure another piece of like thickness and width, horizontally back to the post in rear of it, at the side and ends. Then, lengthwise the building, and turning the angles at the ends, and resting on these horizontal pieces just described, lay other strips, 3×2 inches, set edgewise—one in front, and another in rear, inside each post and suspended strip, and close to it, and secured by heavy nails, so that there shall be a double line of these 252 strips on a level, extending entirely around the interior, from the front at each end. This forms the hanging frame-work for the planks or boards on which the hives are to rest.
The setup for the hives can be done in two different ways, depending on how the beekeeper prefers to secure their hives. The most common method is the stand method, which is done like this: At each corner, spaced about 18 to 24 inches apart from the back and sides of the building—as shown in the ground plan—hang a line of sturdy two-inch planks, 4 inches wide, from the rafters above, reaching down within two feet of the ground. These will support the bottom of the stand where the hives will sit. From the bottom end of these hanging strips, attach another piece of the same thickness and width horizontally back to the post behind it, at the sides and ends. Then, along the length of the building and at the corners, place other strips that are 3x2 inches, standing on edge—one in front and another in the back, inside each post and hanging strip, and close to it. Secure these with heavy nails, creating a double line of these strips on a level that extends completely around the interior from the front to each end. This creates the hanging framework for the planks or boards where the hives will rest.
Now for the hives. First, let as many pieces of sound one and a half, or two-inch plank as you have hives to set upon them, be cut long enough to reach from the boarding on the rear and ends of the building, to one inch beyond, and projecting over the front of the outer strip last described. Let these pieces of plank be well and smoothly planed, and laid lengthwise across the aforesaid strips, not less than four inches apart from each other—if a less number of hives be in the building than it will accommodate at four inches apart, no matter how far apart they may be—these pieces of plank are the ferms for the hives, on which they are to sit. And, as we have for many years adopted the plan now described, with entire success, a brief description is given of our mode of hive, and the process for obtaining the surplus honey. We say surplus, for destroying the bees to obtain their honey, is a mode not at all according to our notions of economy, or mercy; and we prefer to take that honey only which the swarm may make, after supplying their own wants, and the stores for their increasing family. This process is given in the report of a committee of gentlemen appointed by the New York State Agricultural Society, on a hive which we exhibited on that occasion, with the following note attached, at their show at Buffalo, in 1848:
Now for the hives. First, cut enough pieces of sound one-and-a-half or two-inch planks to accommodate the number of hives you have. These should be long enough to reach from the boards on the back and ends of the building, extending one inch beyond and over the front of the outer strip described earlier. Make sure these planks are well smoothed out and laid lengthwise across the strips, spaced at least four inches apart. If there are fewer hives in the building than it can hold at that spacing, the distance between the hives doesn't matter. These planks serve as the ferms for the hives, where they will sit. As we have successfully used this method for many years, here is a brief description of our type of hive and the process we use for collecting surplus honey. We refer to it as surplus because we believe that taking honey by destroying the bees is neither economical nor merciful. We prefer to take only the honey that the swarm produces after meeting their own needs and storing food for their growing family. This process is detailed in the report from a committee of gentlemen appointed by the New York State Agricultural Society regarding a hive we displayed at their show in Buffalo in 1848, along with the following note attached:
253 "I have looked at, studied, and used several different designs of patent hives, of which there are probably around thirty that have been created and used to some extent. I have found all of them unsatisfactory, as they do not fully deliver on the benefits they claim."
"I believe the bee operates and lives purely by instinct. I don't view it as a creative or particularly clever insect. To thrive, its living conditions should be the simplest and most secure. So, instead of using the complex designs of many patented hives, I've created and used a simple box, like the one in front of you, which has a cube shape that is one foot square inside. It's made from one-and-a-quarter-inch thick sound pine wood, well joined and planed on all sides, and put together tightly at the joints with white lead mixed in oil. The inside of the hive has the bottom chamfered to three-eighths of an inch thick, with a door for the bees on the front that measures four inches long by three-eighths of an inch high. I do this to ensure there’s a thin surface that touches the shelf they rest on, which helps prevent a haven for the bee-moth. (I've never used a patented hive that could keep out the bee-moth as effectively as this one, and since I started using this tight hive, I've had no trouble with that pest.) On top of the hive, an inch or two from the front, there’s a one-inch wide by six to eight inches long passage for the bees to enter an upper hive for surplus honey. This passage is covered when there's no container on top for that purpose. For collecting honey, I use a standard ten or twelve-quart water pail, turned upside down with the bail flipped over, where the bees store their excess honey, like the example in front of you. The pail can hold about twenty pounds of honey. This method is simple, inexpensive, and efficient; the pail costs no more than twenty-five cents, and it can be removed quickly, the bail put back in place, making the honey ready for transport or sale, and it's always in position. If there's time for the bees to produce more honey (this year, my bees filled two pails back-to-back), another pail can be added immediately.
"Gentlemen, that's my approach in a nutshell. I've been beekeeping for about twenty years. I find this method more successful than any other."
In addition to this, our hives are painted white, or other light color, on the outside, to protect them from warping, and as a further security against the bee-moth, or miller, which infests and destroys so many carelessly-made hives, as to discourage the efforts of equally careless people in keeping them. Inside the hive, on each end, we fasten, by shingle nails, about half-way between the bottom and top, a small piece of half-inch board, about the size of a common window button, and with a like notch in it, set upward, but stationary, on which, when the hive is to receive the swarm, a stick is laid across, to support the comb as it is built, from falling in hot weather. At such time, also, when new, and used for the first time, the under-side of the top is scratched with the tines of a table fork, or a nail, so as to make a rough surface, to which the new comb can be fastened. In addition to the pails 255 on the top of the hives, to receive the surplus honey, we sometimes use a flat box, the size of the hive in diameter, and six or seven inches high inside, which will hold twenty-five to thirty pounds of honey. The pails we adopted as an article of greater convenience for transporting the honey.
In addition to this, our hives are painted white or another light color on the outside to prevent warping and to provide extra protection against the bee moth, which infests and damages many poorly made hives and discourages careless people from keeping bees. Inside the hive, on each end, we nail a small piece of half-inch board, about the size of a common button, roughly halfway between the bottom and top. This board has a notch in it, facing upward but stationary, on which we lay a stick across when the hive is ready to receive a swarm. This stick supports the comb as it is built, preventing it from falling in hot weather. When the hive is new and used for the first time, we scratch the underside of the top with the tines of a table fork or a nail to create a rough surface for the new comb to attach to. Besides the pails on top of the hives that collect surplus honey, we sometimes use a flat box the same diameter as the hive and six or seven inches high inside, which can hold twenty-five to thirty pounds of honey. We adopted the pails for the convenience of transporting the honey. 255
The other plan of arranging the hives alluded to, is suspending them between the strips before described, by means of cleats secured on to the front and rear sides of the hive, say two-thirds the way up from the bottom. In such case, the strips running lengthwise the house must be brought near enough together to receive the hives as hung by the cleats, and the bottom boards, or forms, must be much smaller than those already described, and hung with wire hooks and staples to the sides, with a button on the rear, to close up, or let them down a sufficient distance to admit the air to pass freely across them, and up into the hive—Weeks' plan, in fact, for which he has a patent, together with some other fancied improvements, such as chambers to receive the boxes for the deposit of surplus honey. This, by the way, is the best "patent" we have seen; and Mr. Weeks having written an ingenious and excellent treatise on the treatment of the bee, we freely recommend his book to the attention of every apiarian who wishes to succeed in their management. As a rule, we have no confidence in patent hives. We have seen scores of them, of different kinds, have tried several of great pretension to sundry virtues—such as excluding moths, and other marvelous benefits—and, after becoming the victim of bee 256 empirics to the tune of many a dollar, have thrown aside the gimcracks, and taken again to a common-sense method of keeping our bees, as here described. The bees themselves, we feel bound to say, seem to hold these patent-right habitations in quite as sovereign contempt as ourself, reluctantly going into them, and getting out of them at the first safe opportunity. But, as a treatise on bee-keeping is not a part of this present work, we must, for further information, commend the inquirer on that subject to some of the valuable treatises extant, on so prolific a subject, among which we name those of Bevan, Weeks, and Miner.
The other method for arranging the hives mentioned is to suspend them between the strips described earlier, using cleats attached to the front and back sides of the hive, about two-thirds of the way up from the bottom. In this case, the strips running the length of the house need to be close enough together to hold the hives as they hang by the cleats, and the bottom boards, or bases, should be much smaller than those previously mentioned, attached with wire hooks and staples to the sides, with a button on the back to either close or lower them enough to let air flow freely across and up into the hive—essentially Weeks' plan, which he has patented, along with some other proposed improvements, like chambers for storing surplus honey boxes. By the way, this is the best "patent" we've seen; Mr. Weeks has also written a clever and excellent book on bee management, and we highly recommend it to any beekeeper who wants to succeed. Generally, we don't trust patent hives. We've seen many types of them, tried several that claimed to offer various benefits—like keeping out moths among other amazing features—and after being taken advantage of by bee salespeople for quite a bit of money, we've discarded the gimmicks and returned to a straightforward method of keeping our bees, as outlined here. We must say that the bees themselves seem to regard these patented habitats with just as much disdain as we do, reluctantly entering them and quickly making their escape at the first safe chance. However, since this treatise on bee-keeping isn’t part of this work, we must refer those interested in more information to some valuable existing texts on this rich subject, including those by Bevan, Weeks, and Miner.
The bee-house should be thoroughly whitewashed inside every spring, and kept clean of cobwebs, wasp's nests, and vermin; and it may be painted outside, a soft and agreeable color, in keeping with the other buildings of the farm. Its premises should be clean, and sweet. The grass around should be kept mowed close. Low trees, or shrubbery, should stand within a few yards of it, that the new swarms may light upon them when coming out, and not, for want of such settling places, be liable to loss from flying away. It should, also, be within sight and hearing, and at no great distance from a continually-frequented room in the dwelling—perhaps the kitchen, if convenient, that, in their swarming season, they may be secured as they leave the parent hive. The apiary is a beautiful object, with its busy tenantry; and to the invalid, or one who loves to look upon God's tiny creatures, it may while away many an agreeable 257 hour, in watching their labors—thus adding pleasure to profit.
The bee house should be completely whitewashed inside every spring and kept free of cobwebs, wasp nests, and pests; you can paint the outside a soft, pleasant color that matches the other buildings on the farm. The area around it should be clean and pleasant-smelling. The grass around should be mowed short. Low trees or shrubs should be a few yards away so that new swarms can land on them when they come out and avoid getting lost. It should also be visible and audible from a frequently used room in the house—maybe the kitchen, if that works—so that during their swarming season, they can be managed as they leave the main hive. The apiary is a lovely sight with its busy inhabitants; for someone unwell or anyone who enjoys watching God’s small creatures, it can provide many enjoyable hours just observing their work, adding pleasure to profit. 257
The cost of a bee-house, on the plan given, may be from ten to fifty dollars, according to the price of material, and the amount of labor expended upon it. It should not be an expensive structure, in any event, as its purpose does not warrant it. If a gimcrack affair be wanted, for the purposes of ornament, or expense, any sum of money may be squandered upon it which the fancy of its builder may choose to spare.
The cost of a bee house, based on the provided plan, can range from ten to fifty dollars, depending on the price of materials and the amount of labor involved. It shouldn't be an expensive build since its purpose doesn't require it to be. If someone wants a decorative or costly version, they can spend as much money on it as their imagination allows.
ICE-HOUSE.
Icehouse.
GROUND PLAN.
Floor plan.
AN ICE-HOUSE.
Among the useful and convenient appendages to the farm and country family establishment, is the ice-house. Different from the general opinion which prevailed in our country before ice became so important an article of commerce, and of home consumption, the building which contains it should stand above-ground, instead of below it. And the plainer and more simple it can be constructed, the better.
Among the useful and convenient additions to a farm and country home is the ice house. Contrary to the common belief that existed in our country before ice became such an important product for trade and personal use, the building that holds it should be above ground rather than below it. The simpler and more straightforward it can be built, the better.
The position of the ice-house may be that which is most convenient to the dwelling, or to the wants of those who use it. If it can be placed beneath the shade of trees, it will so far be relieved from the influence of the sun; but it should be so constructed that sunshine will not affect the ice within it, even if it stand unsheltered; and as it has, by the ice-merchants of our eastern cities, who put up large quantities for exportation abroad, and others in the interior, who furnish ice in quantity for home consumption, been proved to be altogether the better plan to build the ice-house entirely above ground, we shall present no other mode of construction than this. It may be added, that five years' experience with one of our own 259 building, has confirmed our opinion of the superiority of this over any other plan which may be adopted.
The ice house should be located in the most convenient place for the house or the needs of its users. If it can be placed under the shade of trees, it will be less affected by the sun; however, it should be designed so that sunlight doesn't impact the ice inside, even if it's left exposed. Ice merchants from our eastern cities, who store large amounts for export, and those in the interior, who provide ice for local consumption, have shown that building the ice house completely above ground is far better. We will only discuss this construction method. Additionally, five years of experience with one of our own buildings has reinforced our belief in this approach's superiority over any other plan that might be used. 259
The design here presented is of the most economical kind, yet sufficiently ornamental to make it an agreeable appendage to any family establishment. The size may be 12 feet square—less than that would be too small for keeping ice well—and from that up to any required extent. The idea here given is simply the principle of construction. The posts should be full eight feet high above the ground, to where the plate of the roof is attached, and built thus:
The design presented here is cost-effective yet decorative enough to be a nice addition to any home. The size can be 12 feet square—anything smaller wouldn’t hold ice well—and it can be larger to fit any needs. The concept provided is simply the principle of construction. The posts should be at least eight feet high above the ground, up to where the roof plate is attached, and built like this:
Mark out your ground the size you require for the house; then, commencing at one corner, dig, opposite each other, a double set of holes, one foot deep, and two and a half feet apart, on each side of the intended building, say three feet equidistant, so that when the posts stand up they will present a double set, one and a half feet apart. Then set in your posts, which should be of oak, chestnut, or some lasting wood, and pack the earth firmly around them. If the posts are sawed, they may be 4×6 inches in size, set edgeways toward each other. If not sawed, they may be round sticks cut from the woods, or split from the body of a tree, quartered—but sizable, so as to appear decent—and the insides facing each other as they stand up, lined to a surface to receive the planking. Of course, when the posts are set in the ground, they are to show a square form, or skeleton of what the building is to be when completed. When this is done, square off the top of each post to a level, all round; then frame, or spike on to each line of posts a plate, say six inches 261 wide, and four to six inches deep, and stay the two plates together strongly, so as to form a double frame. Now, plank, or board up closely the inside of each line of posts, that the space between them shall be a fair surface. Cut out, or leave out a space for a door in the center of the side where you want it, two and a half or three feet wide, and six and a half feet high, and board up the inner partition sides of this opening, so as to form a door-casing on each side, that the space between the two lines of posts may be a continuous box all around. Then fill up this space between the posts with moist tan-bark, or saw-dust, well packed from the ground up to the plates; and the body of the house is inclosed, sun-proof, and air-proof, to guard the ice.
Mark out the area you need for the house. Starting at one corner, dig a double set of holes, one foot deep and two and a half feet apart, on each side of the intended building, around three feet apart in total. This way, when the posts are up, they will be set in a double line, one and a half feet apart. Then, place your posts—preferably made of oak, chestnut, or another durable wood—and pack the soil tightly around them. If the posts are cut, they can be 4x6 inches in size, positioned edge-to-edge. If they aren’t cut, you can use round sticks from the woods or split logs, making sure they are substantial enough to look good, with the insides facing each other as they stand, and lined to hold the planking in place. Once the posts are planted, they should form a square outline or skeleton of what the finished building will look like. After this is done, level the top of each post evenly. Next, attach a plate to each row of posts, about six inches wide and four to six inches deep, securing the two plates together firmly to create a double frame. Now, closely board up the inside of each row of posts so that the space between them creates a smooth surface. Cut out or leave open a space for a door in the center of the desired side, two and a half or three feet wide and six and a half feet high, and board up the inner sides of this opening to create a door frame on each side, ensuring the space between the two rows of posts forms a continuous box all around. Finally, fill the space between the posts with moist tanbark or sawdust, packed tightly from the ground up to the plates; this makes the body of the house enclosed, sun-proof, and air-proof to protect the ice.
Now lay down, inside the building, some sticks—not much matter what, so that they be level—and on them lay loose planks or boards, for a floor. Cover this floor with a coating of straw, a foot thick, and it is ready to receive the ice.
Now lie down some sticks inside the building—anything will do, as long as they're flat—and on them place loose planks or boards to create a floor. Cover this floor with a layer of straw, a foot thick, and it will be ready to hold the ice.
For the roof, take common 3×4 joists, as rafters; or, in place of them, poles from the woods, long enough, in a pitch of full 35° from a horizontal line, to carry the roof at least four feet over the outside of the plates, and secure the rafters well, by pins or spikes, to them. Then board over and shingle it, leaving a small aperture at the top, through which run a small pipe, say eight inches in diameter—a stove-crock will do—for a ventilator. Then set in, 4 little posts, say two feet high—as in the design—throw a little four-sided, pointed cap on to the top of these posts, and the roof is done. If you want to ornament the under side of 262 the roof, in a rude way—and we would advise it—take some pieces of 3×4 scantling, such as were used for the roof, if the posts are of sawed stuff—if not, rough limbs of trees from the woods, to match the rough posts of the same kind, and fasten them to the posts and the under side of the roof, by way of brackets, as shown in the design.
For the roof, use standard 3x4 joists as rafters; or instead, you can use long poles from the woods that slope at a full 35° from a horizontal line, extending at least four feet over the edge of the plates, and secure the rafters tightly with pins or spikes. Then cover it with boards and shingles, leaving a small opening at the top for ventilation, where you can run a small pipe, about eight inches in diameter—a stove crock will work. Next, install four little posts, around two feet high, as shown in the design, and place a small four-sided, pointed cap on top of these posts to complete the roof. If you want to decorate the underside of 262 the roof in a simple way—and we recommend it—take some pieces of 3x4 lumber, similar to what was used for the roof, if the posts are made from milled wood; if not, use rough tree branches from the woods that match the rough posts, and attach them to the posts and the underside of the roof as brackets, as illustrated in the design.
When the ice is put into the house, a close floor of boards should be laid on joists, which rest on the plates, loosely, so that this floor can be removed when putting in ice, and that covered five or six inches deep with tan, or saw-dust—straw will do, if the other can not be had—and the inside arrangement is complete. Two doors should be attached to the opening, where the ice is put in and taken out; one on the inner side of the lining, and the other on the outer side, both opening out. Tan, saw-dust, or straw should also be placed on the top of the ice, when put in, so as to keep the air from it as much as possible; and as the ice is removed, it will settle down upon, and still preserve it. Care must be taken to have a drain under the floor of the house, to pass off the water which melts from the ice, as it would, if standing there, injure its keeping.
When the ice is brought into the house, a solid floor made of boards should be laid on joists, which are loosely supported by the plates. This floor should be removable for easy access when adding ice and should be covered with five or six inches of tan or sawdust—straw can be used if the others aren't available—and then the inside setup is complete. Two doors should be added to the opening where the ice goes in and comes out; one on the inner side of the lining and the other on the outer side, both swinging outwards. Tan, sawdust, or straw should also be placed on top of the ice once it's in, to minimize air exposure, and as the ice is taken out, it will settle down and continue to help preserve it. It's important to have a drain beneath the floor of the house to remove the water that melts from the ice, as standing water could compromise its preservation.
It will be seen, that, by an error in the cut of the ground plan, the inside line of posts does not show, as in the outer line, which they should do; nor is the outside door inserted, as is shown in the elevation. These defects, however, will be rectified by the builder.
It will be noted that, due to a mistake in the layout of the ground plan, the inner line of posts is not visible, unlike the outer line, which it should be; nor is the outside door included, as shown in the elevation. However, these issues will be fixed by the builder.
We have given considerable thought to this subject, and can devise no shape to the building more appropriate than this, nor one cheaper in construction. It 263 may be built for fifty to a hundred dollars, according to the cost of material and labor, and the degree of finish given to it.
We have put a lot of thought into this topic and can't come up with a building design that is more suitable or cheaper to build than this one. It can be constructed for fifty to a hundred dollars, depending on the cost of materials and labor, as well as the level of finish applied to it. 263
It is hardly worth while to expatiate upon the convenience and economy of an ice-house, to an American. Those who love well-kept meats, fruits, butter, milk, and various etceteras for the table, understand its utility well; to say nothing of the cooling draughts, in the way of drinks, in hot weather, to which it adds—when not taken to extremes—such positive luxury. We commend the ice-house, well-filled, most heartily, to every good country housekeeper, as a matter of convenience, economy, and luxury, adding next to nothing to the living expenses, and, as an appendage to the main buildings, an item of little cost, and a considerable degree of ornament.
It’s hardly worth going on about the convenience and savings of an ice house to an American. Those who enjoy well-preserved meats, fruits, butter, milk, and various other essentials for the table truly understand its value; not to mention the refreshing drinks it provides during hot weather, which can be a real treat—if not overdone. We wholeheartedly recommend a well-filled ice house to every good country housekeeper for its convenience, cost-effectiveness, and luxury, adding almost nothing to living expenses and, as an addition to the main buildings, requiring little investment while enhancing the property’s appeal.
If an under-ground ice-house be preferred to the plan here shown, a side hill, or bank, with a northerly exposure, is the best location for it; and the manner of building should be mainly like this, for the body of the house. The roof, however, should be only two-sided, and the door for putting in and taking out the ice may be in the gable, on the ground level. The drainage under the floor, and precautions for keeping the ice, should be quite as thorough as we have described; as, otherwise, the earth surrounding it on three sides, at least, of the house, will be a ready conductor of warmth, and melt the ice with great rapidity. If the under-ground plan is adopted, but little more than the roof will show, and of course, be of little ornament in the way of appearance.
If you prefer an underground ice house instead of the plan shown here, a hillside or bank with a northern exposure is the best spot for it. The construction should mainly follow the same principles as this design for the main structure. However, the roof should only be slanted on two sides, and the door for putting in and taking out the ice can be at the gable, flush with the ground. The drainage beneath the floor and measures to keep the ice should be just as thorough as we've described; otherwise, the earth surrounding at least three sides of the structure will easily conduct heat and melt the ice quickly. If you go with the underground design, only the roof will be visible, which won’t add much in terms of aesthetic appeal.
ASH HOUSE AND SMOKE HOUSE.
Ash House and Smokehouse.
THE ASH-HOUSE AND SMOKE-HOUSE.
These two objects may, both for convenience and economy, be well combined under one roof; and we have thus placed them in connection. The building is an exceedingly simple structure, made of stone, or brick; the body 10 feet high, and of such size as may be desirable, with a simple roof, and a plain, hooded chimney.
These two items can be conveniently and cost-effectively combined in one place, so we’ve linked them together. The building is very straightforward, made of stone or brick; it’s 10 feet tall and can be sized as needed, with a simple roof and a plain, covered chimney.
GROUND PLAN.
GROUND PLAN.
In the ground plan will be seen a brick, or stone partition—which may extend to such height as may be necessary to contain the bulk of ashes required for storage within it—on one side of the building, to which a door gives access. The opposite side, and overhead, is devoted to the smoke-house, in which the various girts and hooks may be placed, for sustaining the meats to be smoked. The building should be tied together by joists at the plates, properly anchored into the walls, to prevent their spreading. A stove, or pans, or neither, as the method of keeping the smoke alive may govern, can be placed inside, to which the chimney in the roof may serve as a partial escape, or not, as required. The whole process is so simple, 266 and so easily understood, that further explanation is unnecessary.
In the floor plan, you’ll see a brick or stone wall that can be built high enough to hold the amount of ashes needed for storage on one side of the building, which has a door for access. The other side and the area above are used for the smokehouse, where various beams and hooks can be installed to hang the meats for smoking. The building should be connected with joists at the top, securely anchored into the walls to prevent them from spreading. A stove or pans, depending on how the smoke is maintained, can be placed inside, with the chimney in the roof serving as a partial outlet for the smoke, if needed. The entire process is so straightforward and easy to grasp that no further explanation is necessary. 266
A great advantage that a house of this construction has, is the convenience of storing the smoked meats for an indefinite time, even through the whole season, keeping them dark, dry, and cool; and permitting, at any time, a smoke to be made, to drive out the flies, if they find their way into it.
A major benefit of a house built this way is the ability to store smoked meats for an unlimited time, even throughout the entire season, keeping them dark, dry, and cool. It also allows for smoke to be produced anytime to keep flies out, in case they manage to get inside.
The ashes can, of course, be removed at any time, by the door at which they are thrown in.
The ashes can be taken out at any time through the door where they were thrown in.
POULTRY LAWN.
Poultry yard.
THE POULTRY-HOUSE.
As poultry is an indispensable appendage to the farm, in all cases, the poultry-house is equally indispensable, for their accommodation, and for the most profitable management of the fowls themselves, and most convenient for the production of their eggs and young. Indeed, without well-arranged quarters for the fowls of the farm, they are exceedingly troublesome, and of doubtful profit; but with the proper buildings devoted to them exclusively, they become one of the most interesting and agreeable objects with which either the farm or the country house is associated.
As poultry is an essential part of the farm, the poultry house is also essential for their accommodation, efficient management, and convenience in producing eggs and chicks. In fact, without properly organized space for the farm's fowl, they can become quite troublesome and may not be very profitable. However, with the right buildings dedicated to them, they turn into one of the most interesting and enjoyable aspects of both the farm and the country house.
It is hardly worth while to eulogize poultry. Their merits and virtues are written in the hearts of all provident housekeepers; and their beauty and goodness are familiar to every son and daughter of the rural homestead. We shall, then, proceed at once to discuss their proper accommodation, in the cheapest and most familiar method with which we are acquainted.
It’s hardly worth it to praise poultry. Their benefits and qualities are well-known to all thoughtful homemakers, and their appeal and value are recognized by every son and daughter of rural households. So, let’s get straight to discussing how to house them properly, in the most affordable and straightforward way we know.
The hen-house—for hens (barn-door fowls, we mean) are the first and chief stock, of the kind, to be provided for, and with them most of the other varieties 268 can be associated—should be located in a warm, sheltered, and sunny place, with abundant grounds about it, where they can graze—hens eat grass—and scratch, and enjoy themselves to their heart's content, in all seasons, when the ground is open and they can scratch into, or range over its surface. Some people—indeed, a good many people—picket in their gardens, to keep hens out; but we prefer an enclosure to keep the hens in, at all seasons when they are troublesome, which, after all, is only during short seasons of the year, when seeds are planted, or sown, and grain and vegetables are ripening. Otherwise, they may range at will, on the farm, doing good in their destruction of insects, and deriving much enjoyment to themselves; for hens, on the whole, are happy things.
The henhouse—since hens (the barn-door variety, that is) are the primary stock we need to care for, and they can be kept alongside most other breeds—should be situated in a warm, protected, and sunny spot with plenty of space around it for them to roam. Hens like to graze on grass, scratch around, and have fun as much as they want, especially when the ground is clear and they can dig into or explore its surface. Some people—actually, quite a few—set up barriers in their gardens to keep hens out; however, we prefer to create an enclosure to keep the hens in during those times when they become a nuisance, which is really just for a short part of the year when seeds are being planted or when grains and vegetables are ripening. Apart from that, they’re free to roam around the farm, helping to eliminate insects and enjoying themselves because, overall, hens are pretty happy creatures. 268
We here present the elevation of a poultry-house in perspective, to show the principle which we would adopt in its construction, and which may be extended to any required length, and to which may be added any given area of ground, or yard-room, which the circumstances of the proprietor may devote to it. It is, as will be seen, of a most rustic appearance, and built as cheaply, yet thoroughly, as the subject may require. Its length, we will say, is 20 feet, its breadth 16, and its height 10 feet, made of posts set into the ground—for we do not like sills, and floors of wood, because rats are apt to burrow under them, which are their worst enemies—and boarded up, either inside or outside, as in the case of the ice-house previously described, though not double. Plates are laid on these posts, to connect them firmly together; and the rafters 270 rest on the plates, as usual. The chamber floor is 9 feet high, above the ground, and may be used either for laying purposes by the fowls, or reserved as a storage-room for their feed. The roof is broadly drawn over the body of the building, to shelter it, and through the point of the roof, in the center, is a ventilator, with a covered top, and a vane significant of its purpose. It is also sufficiently lighted, with glass windows, into which our draughtsman has put the diamond-paned glass, contrary to our notions; but, as he had, no doubt, an eye to the "picturesque," we let it pass, only remarking, that if we were building the house on our own account, there should be no such nonsense about it. The front windows are large, to attract the warmth of the winter's sun. A section of picket fence is also attached, and trees in the rear—both of which are necessary to a complete establishment; the first, to secure the poultry in the contiguous yards, and the trees to give them shade, and even roosting-places, if they prefer such lodgings in warm weather—for which we consider them eminently wholesome.
We’re presenting a perspective view of a chicken coop to illustrate the design we suggest for its construction. This design can be extended to any desired length and include any specific yard space that the owner wants to allocate. As you can see, the coop has a rustic look and is built cost-effectively yet sturdily, according to the needs of the project. Let’s say its length is 20 feet, width is 16 feet, and height is 10 feet, constructed with posts set into the ground—since we prefer not to use sills or wooden floors, as rats tend to burrow underneath, which makes them a significant threat. The coop is boarded up either on the inside or outside, similar to the previously described ice house, but not in a double layer. Plates are placed on these posts to securely hold them together, and the rafters rest on the plates, as is typical. The floor of the chamber is 9 feet above the ground and can be used for laying eggs by the hens or kept as a storage area for their feed. The roof extends over the building to provide shelter, and at the peak of the roof, there’s a ventilator with a covered top and a weather vane indicating its function. It also has adequate lighting with glass windows; our designer included diamond-paned glass, which goes against our preferences, but since he probably aimed for a "picturesque" look, we let it slide, only noting that if we were building it ourselves, we wouldn’t include such details. The front windows are large to capture warmth from the winter sun. There’s also a section of picket fence attached and trees at the back—both essential for a well-rounded setup; the fence keeps the poultry safe in the nearby yards, and the trees provide shade and potential roosting spots in hotter weather, which we think is very beneficial for them.
The wooden floor is dispensed with, as was remarked, to keep rid of the vermin. If the ground be gravelly, or sandy, it will be sufficiently dry. If a heavy or damp soil be used, it should be under-drained, which will effectually dry it, and be better for the fowls than a floor of either wood, brick, or stone. Doors of sufficient size can be made on the yard sides of the house, near the ground, for the poultry to enter either the living or roosting apartments, at pleasure, and hung with butts on the upper side, to be closed when necessary.
The wooden floor is removed, as noted, to eliminate the vermin. If the ground is gravelly or sandy, it will be dry enough. If heavy or damp soil is used, it should be under-drained, which will effectively dry it out and be better for the birds than a floor made of wood, brick, or stone. Adequate-sized doors can be installed on the yard sides of the house, close to the ground, allowing the poultry to enter either the living or roosting areas at will, and they should be hung with hinges on the top side to close when needed.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
The front door opens into the main living room. At each end, and in the rear, are tiers of boxes, one foot wide, one and a half feet long, and one and a half feet high—the lowest tier elevated two feet above the ground—and built one tier above the other, and snugly partitioned between, with a hole at one corner of each, ten inches high, and eight inches wide, for passing in to them; and a shelf, or passage-board, nine inches wide, in front. These are the nesting boxes, and should be kept supplied with short, soft straw, or hay orts, for that purpose. Hens love secrecy in their domestic economy, and are wonderfully pleased with the opportunity to hide away, and conceal themselves while laying. Indeed, such concealment, or the supposition of it, we have no doubt promotes fecundity, as it is well known that a hen can stop laying, almost at pleasure, when disturbed in her regular habits and settled plans of life. Burns says—
The front door opens into the main living room. On each end and at the back, there are rows of boxes, one foot wide, one and a half feet long, and one and a half feet high—the lowest row raised two feet off the ground—and stacked one on top of the other, with snug partitions between them, and a hole at one corner of each, ten inches high and eight inches wide, for access; and a shelf, or passage-board, nine inches wide, in front. These are the nesting boxes and should be filled with short, soft straw or leftover hay for that purpose. Hens love privacy in their daily routines and are really happy to have a place to hide and keep themselves out of sight while laying eggs. In fact, we believe that such hiding, or even the idea of it, encourages egg-laying, since it’s well known that a hen can nearly stop laying whenever she feels disturbed in her usual habits and settled routines. Burns says—
"The best laid schemes of mice and men
Gang aft agley;"
"The best laid plans of mice and men
Often go wrong;"
and why not hen's? We think so. If turkeys be kept in the premises, the females can also be accommodated in these boxes, as they are fond of laying in company with the hens, and frequently in the same nests, only that they require larger entrances into them; or, a tier of boxes may be made on the ground, for their convenience.
and why not a hen's? We think so. If turkeys are kept on the property, the females can also be housed in these boxes, as they like to lay eggs alongside the hens, often in the same nests, but they do need larger openings to get in; or, a row of boxes can be built on the ground for their convenience.
272 A door leads from the rear of this room into the roosting apartment, through which is a passage to the back side of the building, and a door opposite, leading out into the yard. On each side of this passage are roosts, rising, each behind and above the other, 18 inches apart. The lowest roosts may be three feet from the ground, and the highest six feet, that they may easily fly from one to the other; and in this way they may all be approached, to catch the fowls, when required. For the roosts, slender poles, two to three inches in diameter—small trees, cut from the woods, with the bark on, are the best—may be used; and they should be secured through augur holes in board slats suspended from the floor joists overhead. This apartment should be cleaned out as often as once a fortnight, both for cleanliness and health—for fowls like to be clean, and to have pure air. A flight of stairs may be made in one corner of the front room, to go into the chamber, if preferred; but a swing ladder, hung by one end, with hinges, to the joists above, is, for such purpose, a more cleanly mode of access; which, when not in use, may be hooked up to the under side of the floor above; and a trap door, shutting into the chamber floor, and also hung on hinges, will accommodate the entrance.
272 There’s a door at the back of this room that leads into the roost area, which connects to the back of the building, and there’s another door on the opposite side that opens into the yard. On either side of this passage, there are roosts that sit one behind and above the other, spaced 18 inches apart. The lowest roosts might be three feet off the ground, while the highest are six feet, allowing the birds to easily fly from one to another; this setup makes it easier to catch the birds when needed. For the roosts, slender poles with a diameter of two to three inches—small trees cut from the woods with the bark still on—work best; they should be secured through holes drilled in board slats suspended from the floor joists above. This area should be cleaned out as often as every two weeks, both for cleanliness and health—birds prefer clean spaces and fresh air. A staircase can be built in one corner of the front room to access the chamber if desired; however, a swing ladder, attached by one end with hinges to the joists above, is a cleaner way to get there; when not in use, it can be hooked up to the underside of the floor above, and a trap door, which also has hinges, will allow access to the chamber floor.
For feeding troughs, we have seen many ingenious contrivances, and among them, possibly, a Yankee patent, or two; but all these we put aside, as of little account. A common segar box, or any other cast-off thing, that will hold their food, is just as good as the most complicated invention; and, in common feeding, 273 there is no better mode than to scatter abroad their corn, and let them pick it up at their pleasure—when spread on a clean surface. We think, also, that, except for fattening poultry, stated hours of feeding are best for the birds themselves, and that they be fed only such quantity as they will pick up clean. Water should, if possible, be kept constantly by them; and if a small running stream could pass through the yard, all the better.
For feeding troughs, we've seen a lot of clever designs, and among them, maybe a Yankee patent or two; but we disregard all that as not very important. A simple cigar box or any other discarded item that can hold their food is just as effective as the most complicated device. When it comes to regular feeding, there's no better method than to scatter their corn around and let them pick it up whenever they want—especially when it's spread on a clean surface. We also believe that, except for fattening poultry, having set feeding times is best for the birds, and they should only be given as much food as they can eat completely. Water should, if possible, always be available to them; and if a small running stream can flow through the yard, that would be even better. 273
If it be desirable to have fresh eggs during winter—and that is certainly a convenience—a box stove may be set in the living room, and properly protected by a grating around it, for warming the living apartment. It may be remarked, however, that this winter-laying of hens is usually a forcing business. A hen will lay but about a given number of eggs in a year; say a hundred—we believe this is about the number which the most observant of poultry-keepers allow them—and what she lays in winter must be subtracted from the number she would otherwise lay in the spring, summer, or autumn. Yet a warm house will, laying, aside, keep the fowls with less food, and in greater comfort, than if cold, and left to their own natural warmth.
If you want fresh eggs during the winter—and that's definitely convenient—you can set up a box stove in the living room, properly protected by a grating around it, to warm the living area. However, it's worth noting that having hens lay in winter is usually a forcing situation. A hen will lay only a certain number of eggs in a year; around a hundred—this seems to be the consensus among the most observant poultry keepers. What she lays in winter must be subtracted from the total she would lay in spring, summer, or autumn. Still, a warm house will help the hens require less food and keep them more comfortable than if it were cold and they were relying on their natural warmth.
There is usually little difficulty in keeping hens, turkies, ducks, and geese together, in the same inclosure, during winter and early spring, before the grass grows. But geese and turkies require greater range during the warm season than the others, and should have it, both for convenience to themselves and profit to their owners. For winter quarters, low shelters may be made for the water-fowls in the yards, and the turkies will 274 frequently prefer to share the shelter of the hens, on the roosts in the house. Guinea-hens—cruel, vindictive things, as they are—should never be allowed within a common poultry yard. Always quarrelsome, and never quiet, they should take to the farmyard, with the cattle, where they may range at will, and take their amusement in fisticuffs with each other, at pleasure. Neither should peacocks be allowed to come into the poultry inclosures, during the breeding season; they are anything but amiable in their manners to other birds.
It's usually not too hard to keep chickens, turkeys, ducks, and geese together in the same enclosure during winter and early spring, before the grass starts growing. However, geese and turkeys need more space during the warm season than the others, and they should have it for their own comfort and for the benefit of their owners. For winter, you can create low shelters for the waterfowl in the yards, and turkeys often prefer to share the hens' shelter on the roosts in the house. Guinea hens—cruel and vindictive as they are—should never be allowed in a common poultry yard. They’re always bickering and never calm, so they should be kept in the farmyard with the cattle, where they can roam freely and entertain themselves by fighting with each other. Peacocks shouldn't be allowed in the poultry enclosures during the breeding season either; they aren't kind to other birds.
With the care and management of the poultry department, after thus providing for their accommodation, it is not our province to interfere; that is a subject too generally understood, to require further remark. Nor need we discuss the many varieties of poultry which, at the present time, so arrest the attention of many of our good country people; and we will leave so important a subject to the meditations of the "New England Poultry Society," who have taken the gallinaceous, and other tribes under their special cognizance, and will, doubtless, in due time, illumine the world with various knowledge in this department of rural economy, not yet "dreamt of in our philosophy." The recently published poultry books, too, with an amplitude and particularity in the discussion of the different breeds and varieties, which shuts all suspicions of self-interest into the corner, have given such a fund of information on the subject, that any further inquiry may, with entire good will, be turned over to their pages.
With the care and management of the poultry department taken care of, there's no need for us to get involved; it’s a topic well understood enough that it doesn't need more comment. We also don’t need to go into the many types of poultry that currently capture the interest of many of our fellow country people; we'll leave this important topic to the "New England Poultry Society," who are paying special attention to chickens and other birds, and who will surely enlighten us in due time with various insights in this area of farming that we haven't even thought of. The recently published poultry books, too, provide such thorough and detailed discussions on the different breeds and varieties that there’s no room for any suspicion of self-interest, and they've offered so much information on the subject that any further questions can be happily directed to their pages.
THE DOVECOTE.
This is a department, in itself, not common among the farm buildings, in the United States; and for the reason, probably, that the domestic pigeon, or house-dove, is usually kept more for amusement than for profit—there being little actual profit about them—and is readily accommodated in the spare lofts of sheds and out-buildings devoted to other purposes. Pigeons, however, add to the variety and interest of the poultry department; and as there are many different breeds of them, they are general favorites with the juveniles of the family.
This is a department that isn’t commonly found among farm buildings in the United States, probably because domestic pigeons, or house doves, are usually kept more for fun than for profit—there’s not much actual profit to be made from them—and they can easily be housed in spare lofts of sheds and outbuildings used for other purposes. However, pigeons add variety and interest to the poultry section, and since there are many different breeds, they tend to be favorites among the kids in the family.
Our present object is, not to propose any distinct building for pigeon accommodation; but to give them a location in other buildings, where they will be conveniently provided with room, and least annoying by their presence—for, be it known, they are oft-times a most serious annoyance to many crops of the farm, when kept in any considerable numbers, as well as in the waste and havoc they make in the stores of the barns and granaries. Although graceful and beautiful birds, generally clean and tidy in their personal habits 276 out of doors, they are the filthiest housekeepers imaginable, and no building can be especially devoted to their use, if not often swept and cleaned, but what will soon become an intolerable nuisance within, and not much better without, and the ground immediately around the premises a dirty place. The common pigeon is a pugnacious cavalier, warring apparently upon mere punctilio, as we have often seen, in the distant strut-and-coo of a stranger bird to his mate, even if she be the very incarnation of "rejected addresses." On all these accounts, we would locate—unless a small and select family of fancy birds, perhaps—the pigeon stock at the principal farm-yard, and in the lofts of the cattle sheds, or the chambers of the stable.
Our main goal isn’t to suggest a specific building for housing pigeons; instead, we want to find them space in existing structures where they can be accommodated without causing too much inconvenience. It's important to note that they can be a major nuisance to the farm’s crops when kept in large numbers, as well as creating messes in the barns and granaries. While they are graceful and beautiful birds, generally clean in their outdoor habits, they are the worst when it comes to cleanliness indoors. Any building designated for them will quickly become unbearable if not regularly cleaned. Additionally, the area around these buildings can turn into a dirty mess. The common pigeon is aggressive and territorial, often picking fights over trivial matters, as we’ve seen in their distant strutting and cooing when a stranger approaches, even if the mate being pursued is clearly uninterested. For all these reasons, we suggest locating—unless it’s a small and select group of fancy birds—the pigeon population in the main farmyard and in the upper levels of the cattle sheds or stables.
Wherever the pigeon accommodations are designed to be, a close partition should separate their quarters from the room occupied for other purposes, with doors for admission to those who have to do with them, in cleaning their premises, or to take the birds, when needed. A line of holes, five inches high, and four inches wide—the top of the hole slightly arched—should be made, say 18 inches apart, for the distance of room they are to occupy in the building. A foot above the top of these, another line may be made; and so on, tiering them up to the height intended to devote to them. A line of shelves, or lighting-boards, six to eight inches wide, should then be placed one inch below the bottom of these holes, and firmly braced beneath, and nailed to the weather-boarding of the house. Inside, a range of box should be made, of corresponding length with the line of holes, to embrace 277 every entrance from the outside, 18 inches wide, and partitioned equidistant between each entrance, so as to give a square box of 18 inches to each pair of birds. The bottom board of each ascending tier of boxes will, of course, be the top of the boxes below, and these must be made perfectly tight, to prevent the offal of the upper ones from falling through, to the annoyance of their neighbors below. The back of these boxes should have a line of swing doors, hung with butts, or hinges, from the top, and fastened with buttons, or hooks, at the bottom, to allow admission, or examination, at any time, to those who have the care of them. This plan of door is indispensable, to clean them out—which should be done as often as once a week, or fortnight, at farthest—and to secure the birds as they may be wanted for the table, or other purposes—for it will be recollected that squabs, just feathered out, are considered a delicious dish, at the most sumptuous tables. It will be understood, that these boxes above described, are within a partitioned room, with a floor, in their rear, with sufficient space for the person in charge of them to pass along, and to hold the baskets, or whatever is to receive the offal of their boxes, as it is taken out. This offal is valuable, as a highly stimulating manure, and is sought for by the morocco tanners, at a high price—frequently at twenty-five cents a bushel.
Wherever the pigeon accommodations are located, there should be a close partition separating their space from the rest of the room, with doors for those who need access to clean their area or retrieve the birds when required. A row of holes, five inches high and four inches wide, with the tops of the holes slightly arched, should be made about 18 inches apart for the section of the building they will occupy. A foot above these, another row may be added, and so on, tiering them up to the height intended for them. A line of shelves or lighting boards, six to eight inches wide, should then be placed one inch below the bottom of these holes and firmly supported and nailed to the exterior of the house. Inside, a series of boxes should be constructed, matching the length of the holes, embracing every entrance from the outside, measuring 18 inches wide and equally partitioned between each entrance to create a square box of 18 inches for each pair of birds. The bottom board of each ascending tier of boxes will, naturally, be the top of the boxes below, and these must be made perfectly tight to prevent the waste from the upper boxes from falling through, disturbing their neighbors below. The back of these boxes should have a line of swing doors, hinged from the top, and secured with buttons or hooks at the bottom, allowing access or inspection at any time for those caring for them. This type of door is essential for cleaning them out, which should be done at least once a week, or once every two weeks at most, and for securing the birds when needed for the table or other uses—remember that squabs, just feathered out, are considered a delicacy at the finest tables. It should be noted that these boxes are located within a partitioned room, with a floor behind them, providing enough space for the caretaker to move around and hold baskets or containers to collect the waste as it is removed. This waste is valuable as a highly potent fertilizer and is sought after by morocco tanners at a high price—often around twenty-five cents a bushel.
As pigeons are prolific breeders, laying and hatching six or seven times a year, and in warm climates oftener, they require a good supply of litter—short cut, soft straw is the best—which should be freely 278 supplied at every new incubation, and the old litter removed. The boxes, too, should be in a warm place, snugly made, and well sheltered from the wind and driving storms; for pigeons, although hardy birds when grown, should be well protected while young.
Since pigeons breed often, laying and hatching six or seven times a year—and even more in warm climates—they need plenty of bedding. Short-cut, soft straw is the best option and should be provided with every new incubation, while the old bedding should be taken out. The boxes also need to be in a warm spot, well-made, and properly sheltered from the wind and harsh storms because, although pigeons are tough once they're grown, they need good protection when they're young. 278
The common food of the pigeon is grain, of almost any kind, and worms, and other insects, which they pick up in the field. On the whole, they are a pleasant bird, when they can be conveniently kept, and are worth the trifling cost that their proper housing may demand.
The typical food for pigeons is grain of just about any type, along with worms and other insects that they find in the fields. Overall, they are nice birds, especially when they can be easily cared for, and they are worth the small expense for proper housing.
If our opinion were asked, as to the best, and least troublesome kind of pigeon to be kept, we should say, the finest and most hardy of the common kind, which are usually found in the collections throughout the country. But there are many fancy breeds—such as the fan-tail, the powter, the tumbler, the ruffler, and perhaps another variety or two—all pretty birds, and each distinct in their appearance, and in some of their domestic habits. The most beautiful of the pigeon kind, however, is the Carrier. They are the very perfection of grace, and symmetry, and beauty. Their colors are always brilliant and changing, and in their flight they cleave the air with a rapidity which no other variety—indeed, which scarce any other bird, of any kind, can equal. History is full of examples of their usefulness, in carrying tidings from one country to another, in letters, or tokens, fastened to their necks or legs, for which they are trained by those who have thus used them; but which, now, the well known telegraph wire has nearly superseded.
If our opinion were asked, when it comes to the best and least troublesome type of pigeon to keep, we would say it's the finest and hardiest of the common types, usually found in collections across the country. However, there are many fancy breeds—like the fan-tail, powter, tumbler, ruffler, and maybe a couple of others—all beautiful birds, each unique in appearance and some of their domestic habits. The most striking of the pigeon varieties, though, is the Carrier. They embody perfection in grace, symmetry, and beauty. Their colors are always vibrant and shifting, and they fly through the air with a speed that no other variety—indeed, hardly any other bird—can match. History is full of instances showing their usefulness in carrying messages from one country to another, with letters or tokens attached to their necks or legs, trained by those who have used them; but now, the well-known telegraph wire has almost taken over that role.
279 All these fancy breeds require great care in their management, to keep them pure in blood, as they will all mix, more or less, with the common pigeon, as they come in contact with them; and the selection of whatever kind is wanted to be kept, must be left to those who are willing to bestow the pains which their necessary care may demand.
279 All these fancy breeds need careful management to keep their bloodlines pure since they will inevitably mix to some extent with the common pigeon when they come into contact with them. Choosing the specific breed to keep should be left to those who are ready to put in the effort that their proper care requires.
PIGGERY.
Pig farm.
A PIGGERY.
The hog is an animal for which we have no especial liking, be he either a tender suckling, nosing and tugging at the well-filled udder of his dam, or a well-proportioned porker, basking in all the plenitude of swinish luxury; albeit, in the use of his flesh, we affect not the Jew, but liking it moderately well, in its various preparations, as a substantial and savory article of diet. Still, the hog is an important item of our agricultural economy, and his production and proper treatment is a valuable study to all who rear him as a creature either of profit or convenience. In the western and southern states, a mild climate permits him to be easily reared and fed off for market, with little heed to shelter or protection; while in the north, he requires care and covering during winter. Not only this; in all places the hog is an unruly, mischievous creature, and has no business really in any other 280 place than where he can he controlled, and kept at a moment's call.
The hog is an animal that we don't particularly like, whether it's a piglet tugging at its mother's udder or a well-fed pig enjoying its life of luxury. However, we don't have the same feelings toward its meat as the Jew does; we actually like it quite a bit in its various forms, as a hearty and tasty food option. Still, the hog is a significant part of our agricultural economy, and understanding how to raise and care for him is important for anyone who keeps him for profit or convenience. In the western and southern states, a mild climate makes it easy to raise and feed him for market without much concern for shelter. In contrast, in the north, he needs care and protection during the winter. Moreover, everywhere, the hog is a wild, mischievous creature and really belongs only in places where he can be controlled and kept close at hand. 280
But, as tastes and customs differ essentially, with regard to his training and destiny, to such as agree with us in opinion, that his proper place is in the sty, particularly when feeding for pork, a plan of piggery is given, such as may be economical in construction, and convenient in its arrangement, both for the swine itself, and him who has charge of him.
But since tastes and customs vary greatly, especially regarding his upbringing and future, to those who agree with us that his rightful place is in the pen, especially while being raised for meat, we provide a plan for a pigpen that is cost-effective to build and easy to manage, both for the pig itself and the person taking care of it.
GROUND PLAN.
Floor plan.
The design here given, is for a building, 36 feet long, and 24 feet wide, with twelve-feet posts; the lower, or living room for the swine, 9 feet high, and a storage chamber above, for the grain and other food required for his keeping. The roof has a pitch of 40° from a horizontal line, spreading over the sides and gables at least 20 inches, and coarsely bracketed. The entrance front projects 6 feet from the main building, by 12 feet in length. Over its main door, in the gable, is a door with a hoisting beam and tackle above it, to take in the grain, and a floor over the whole area receives it. A window is in each gable end. A ventilator passes up through this chamber and the roof, to let off the steam from the cooking vats below, and the foul air emitted by the swine, by the side of which is the furnace-chimney, giving it, on the whole, as respectable an appearance as a pigsty need pretend to.
The design presented here is for a building that is 36 feet long and 24 feet wide, with 12-foot posts. The lower level, or living space for the pigs, has a height of 9 feet, while there’s a storage space above for the grain and other food needed for their care. The roof is pitched at 40° from a horizontal line, extending over the sides and gables by at least 20 inches, and is roughly bracketed. The entrance section juts out 6 feet from the main building and measures 12 feet in length. Above the main door, in the gable, there’s an additional door with a hoisting beam and tackle above it for bringing in the grain, and the entire area has a floor to accommodate it. There’s a window at each gable end. A ventilator rises through this storage space and the roof, allowing steam from the cooking vats below and the foul air from the pigs to escape, alongside which is the furnace chimney, giving it, overall, as respectable an appearance as a pigsty can manage.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
At the left of the entrance is a flight of stairs, (b,) leading to the chamber above. On the right is a small area, (a,) with a window to light it. A door from this leads into the main room, (c,) where stands a chimney, (d,) with a furnace to receive the fuel for cooking the food, for which are two kettles, or boilers, with wooden vats, on the top, if the extent of food demands them; these are secured with broad wooden covers, to keep in the steam when cooking. An iron valve is placed in the back flue of the furnace, which may fall upon either side, to shut off the fire from either of the kettles, around which the fire may revolve; or, the valve may stand in a perpendicular position, at will, if both kettles be heated at the same time. But, as the most economical mode is to cook one kettle while the other is in process of feeding out, and vice versa, scarcely more than one at a time will be required in use. Over each kettle is a sliding door, with a short spout to slide the food into them, when wanted. If necessary, and it can be conveniently done, a well may be sunk under this room, and a pump inserted at a convenient place; or if equally convenient, a pipe may bring the water in from a neighboring stream, or spring. On three sides of this room are feeding pens, (e,) and sleeping partitions, (f,) for the swine. These several apartments are accommodated with doors, which open into separate yards on the sides and in rear, or a large one for the entire family, as may be desired.
At the left of the entrance is a set of stairs, (b,) leading to the room above. On the right is a small space, (a,) with a window for light. A door from here leads into the main room, (c,) where there’s a chimney, (d,) with a furnace to hold the fuel for cooking food. There are two kettles, or boilers, sitting on top, if a large amount of food is needed; these are covered with wide wooden lids to retain steam while cooking. An iron valve is located in the back flue of the furnace, which can pivot to either side, shutting off the fire from either of the kettles, allowing the fire to circulate around them; or, the valve can stand up straight if both kettles are heated at the same time. However, the most efficient method is to cook one kettle while the other is being emptied and vice versa, so typically only one will be in use at a time. Above each kettle is a sliding door with a short spout to pour food into them as needed. If necessary and convenient, a well can be dug beneath this room, and a pump installed in a suitable place; alternatively, a pipe can bring water in from a nearby stream or spring. On three sides of this room are feeding pens, (e,) and sleeping areas, (f,) for the pigs. These various spaces are equipped with doors that open into separate yards on the sides and in the back, or a larger one for the whole family, depending on preference.
CONSTRUCTION.
The frame of this building is of strong timber, and stout for its size. The sills should be 8 inches square, the corner posts of the same size, and the intermediate posts 8×6 inches in diameter. In the center of these posts, grooves should be made, 2 inches wide, and deep, to receive the plank sides, which should be 2 inches thick, and let in from the level of the chamber by a flush cutting for that purpose, out of the grooves inside, thus using no nails or spikes, and holding the planks tight in their place, that they may not be rooted out, or rubbed off by the hogs, and the inner projection of the main posts left to serve as rubbing posts for them—for no creature so loves to rub his sides, when fatting, as a hog, and this very natural and praiseworthy propensity should be indulged. These planks, like the posts, should, particularly the lower ones, be of hard wood, that they may not be eaten off. Above the chamber floor, thinner planks may be used, but all should be well jointed, that they may lie snug, and shut out the weather. The center post in the floor plan of the engraving is omitted, by mistake, but it should stand there, like the others. Inside posts at the corners, and in the sides of the partitions, like the outside ones, should be also placed and grooved to receive the planking, four and a half feet high, and their upper ends be secured by tenons into mortices in the beams overhead. The troughs should then, if possible, be made of cast iron, or, in default of that, the hardest of 284 white oak plank, strongly spiked on to the floor and sides; and the apartment may then be called hog-proof—for a more unquiet, destructive creature, to a building in which he is confined, does not live, than the hog. The slide, or spout to conduct the swill and other feed from the feeding-room into the trough, should be inserted through the partition planks, with a steep slant the whole length of the trough, that the feed may be readily thrown into any or all parts of it. This slide should be of two-inch white-oak plank, and bound along the bottom by a strip of hoop-iron, to prevent the pigs from eating it off—a habit they are prone to; then, firmly spiked down to the partition planks, and through the ends, to the adjoining studs, and the affair is complete. With what experience we have had with the hog, and that by no means an agreeable one, we can devise no better method of accommodation than this here described, and it certainly is the cheapest. But the timber and lumber used must be sound and strong; and then, properly put together, it may defy their most destructive ingenuity. Of the separate uses to which the various apartments may be put, nothing need be said, as the circumstances of every farmer will best govern them.
The frame of this building is made of strong timber and is sturdy for its size. The sills should be 8 inches square, the corner posts the same size, and the intermediate posts 8x6 inches in diameter. In the center of these posts, grooves should be made, 2 inches wide and deep, to hold the plank sides, which should be 2 inches thick and inserted from the level of the chamber with a flush cut for that purpose, out of the grooves inside. This way, no nails or spikes are needed, and the planks are held securely in place so they won’t be knocked out or rubbed off by the hogs. The inner projection of the main posts should serve as rubbing posts for them—because no creature loves to rub its sides when fattening as much as a hog, and this natural and commendable tendency should be allowed. These planks, like the posts (especially the lower ones), should be made of hard wood so they won't be eaten. Thinner planks can be used above the chamber floor, but all should be well-jointed so they fit snugly and keep out the weather. The center post in the floor plan of the engraving is mistakenly omitted but should be there, just like the others. Inside posts at the corners and along the sides of the partitions, similar to the outside ones, should also be installed and grooved to receive the planking, at a height of four and a half feet, with their upper ends secured by tenons into mortices in the beams overhead. The troughs should ideally be made of cast iron, or if that's not an option, from the hardest white oak plank, strongly spiked to the floor and sides. This way, the area can be considered hog-proof—since there's no more restless or destructive animal in a confined space than a hog. The slide, or spout, used to direct the swill and other feed from the feeding room into the trough should be fitted through the partition planks, slanted steeply along the entire length of the trough, so the feed can be easily tossed into any part of it. This slide should be made from two-inch white oak planks and reinforced along the bottom with a strip of hoop-iron to prevent the pigs from chewing it—a habit they tend to have. Then, it should be firmly spiked down to the partition planks and through the ends to the adjoining studs, completing the setup. Based on our experience with hogs—which is by no means pleasant—we can’t think of a better way to accommodate them than this method, and it's certainly the most cost-effective. However, the timber and lumber used must be sound and strong; when properly assembled, it can withstand their most destructive efforts. As for the specific uses of the various areas, there's no need to elaborate, as each farmer's circumstances will dictate that best.
One, to three hundred dollars, according to price of material and labor, will build this piggery, besides fitting it up with furnace and boilers. It may be contracted, or enlarged in size, as necessity may direct; but no one, with six to twenty porkers in his fatting pens, a year, will regret the expense of building a convenient appurtenance of this kind to his establishment.
One to three hundred dollars, depending on the cost of materials and labor, will build this piggery and equip it with a furnace and boilers. It can be contracted or expanded based on need; however, anyone who raises six to twenty pigs in their fattening pens each year will not regret the investment in adding such a useful facility to their setup.
285 A word may be pardoned, in relation to the too universal practice of permitting swine to prowl along the highways, and in the yards and lawns of the farm house. There is nothing so slovenly, wasteful, and destructive to one's thrift, and so demoralizing, in a small way, as is this practice. What so revolting to one, of the least tidy nature whatever, as a villainous brute, with a litter of filthy pigs at her heels, and the slimy ooze of a mud-puddle reeking and dripping from their sides? See the daubs of mud marking every fence-post, far and near, along the highway, or where-ever they run! A burrow is rooted up at every shady point, a nuisance at every corner you turn, and their abominable snouts into everything that is filthy, or obscene—a living curse to all that is decent about them. An Ishmaelite among the farm stock, they are shunned and hated by every living thing, when at large. But, put the creature in his pen, with a ring in his nose, if permitted to go into the adjoining yard, and comfortably fed, your pig, if of a civilized breed, is a quiet, inoffensive—indeed, gentlemanly sort of animal; and as such, he is entitled to our toleration—regard, we cannot say; for in all the pages of our reading, we learn, by no creditable history, of any virtuous sympathies in a hog.
285 It's worth mentioning the common practice of letting pigs roam on the roads and in the yards and lawns of the farmhouse. There's nothing so messy, wasteful, and damaging to one's resources, and so demoralizing, on a small scale, as this practice. What could be more disgusting to someone who values tidiness than a nasty creature with a bunch of filthy pigs trailing behind her, their sides dripping with the slimy muck of a muddy puddle? Look at the blobs of mud marking every fence post, near and far, along the road, or wherever they wander! Every shady spot gets dug up, there's a nuisance at every corner, and their filthy snouts get into everything unpleasant and offensive — a living curse to anything decent about them. Like an outcast among farm animals, they are avoided and despised by everything that lives when they’re roaming free. But put the pig in its pen, with a ring in its nose, allow it access to the neighboring yard, and feed it well, and your pig, if it's a domesticated breed, becomes a calm, harmless — indeed, rather gentlemanly — kind of animal. As such, it deserves our tolerance — we can’t quite say respect, though; for in all our reading, we find no credible history of any virtuous traits in a pig.
FARM BARNS.
The farm barn, next to the farm house, is the most important structure of the farm itself, in the Northern and Middle States; and even at the south and southwest, where less used, they are of more importance in the economy of farm management than is generally supposed. Indeed, to our own eyes, a farm, or a plantation appears incomplete, without a good barn accommodation, as much as without good household appointments—and without them, no agricultural establishment can be complete in all its proper economy.
The barn next to the farmhouse is the most important structure on the farm in the Northern and Middle States. Even in the South and Southwest, where barns are used less, they play a more significant role in farm management than most people realize. Honestly, to us, a farm or plantation feels incomplete without a good barn, just like it does without quality household items. Without these, no agricultural operation can fully function as it should.
The most thorough barn structures, perhaps, to be seen in the United States, are those of the state of Pennsylvania, built by the German farmers of the lower and central counties. They are large, and expensive in their construction; and, in a strictly economical view, perhaps more costly than required. Yet, there is a substance and durability in them, that is exceedingly satisfactory, and, where the pecuniary ability of the farmer will permit, may well be an example for imitation.
The most thorough barn structures seen in the United States are in Pennsylvania, built by German farmers in the lower and central counties. They are large and expensive to construct, and from a purely economic standpoint, they may be more costly than necessary. However, they have a solidness and durability that is very satisfying, and where the farmer's financial situation allows, they could serve as a great example to follow.
In the structure of the barn, and in its interior accommodation, much will depend upon the branches of 287 agriculture to which the farm is devoted. A farm cultivated in grain chiefly, requires but little room for stabling purposes. Storage for grain in the sheaf, and granaries, will require its room; while a stock farm requires a barn with extensive hay storage, and stables for its cattle, horses, and sheep, in all climates not admitting such stock to live through the winter in the field, like the great grazing states west of the Alleghanies. Again, there are wide districts of country where a mixed husbandry of grain and stock is pursued, which require barns and out-buildings accommodating both; and to supply the exigencies of each, we shall present such plans as may be appropriate, and that may, possibly, by a slight variation, be equally adapted to either, or all of their requirements.
In the design of the barn and its interior space, much will depend on the type of agriculture the farm focuses on. A farm primarily growing grain needs minimal space for stabling. It requires room for storing grain in sheaves and granaries, while a livestock farm needs a barn with plenty of space for hay storage and stables for its cattle, horses, and sheep, especially in climates that don't allow animals to survive outdoors through the winter, like the major grazing states west of the Alleghenies. Additionally, many regions practice a mix of grain and livestock farming, which necessitates barns and outbuildings that can accommodate both types. To meet the needs of each scenario, we will present suitable plans that can be easily adapted, with some slight adjustments, to fulfill the requirements of any or all of them.
It may not be out of place here, to remark, that many designers of barns, sheds, and other out-buildings for the accommodation of farm stock, have indulged in fanciful arrangements for the convenience and comfort of animals, which are so complicated that when constructed, as they sometimes are, the practical, common-sense farmer will not use them; and, in the learning required in their use, are altogether unfit for the use and treatment they usually get from those who have the daily care of the stock which they are intended for, and for the rough usage they receive from the animals themselves. A very pretty, and a very plausible arrangement of stabling, and feeding, and all the etceteras of a barn establishment, may be thus got up by an ingenious theorist at the fireside, which will work to a charm, as he dilates upon its good 288 qualities, untried; but, when subjected to experiment will be utterly worthless for practical use. All this we, in our practice, have gone through; and after many years experience, have come to the conclusion that the simplest plan of construction, consistent with an economical expenditure of the material of food for the consumption of stock, is by far the most preferable.
It’s worth mentioning that many designers of barns, sheds, and other outbuildings for housing farm animals come up with elaborate designs for the animals' comfort and convenience. These designs are often so complicated that once built, the practical, down-to-earth farmer won’t use them. Moreover, the level of knowledge needed to use these designs makes them completely unsuitable for the care and handling that livestock typically receive from those who deal with them daily, as well as for the rough treatment they encounter from the animals themselves. An attractive and seemingly sensible layout for stabling and feeding, along with all the other aspects of a barn set-up, can be created by a creative theorist sitting by the fireplace, which sounds great in theory as they discuss its benefits. However, when put to the test, it often proves to be completely impractical. We’ve gone through this experience in our practice, and after many years, we’ve concluded that the simplest construction plan, while still effectively managing food resources for the animals, is definitely the best option.
Another item to be considered in this connection, is the comparative value of the stock, the forage fed to them, and the labor expended in feeding and taking care of them. We will illustrate: Suppose a farm to lie in the vicinity of a large town, or city. Its value is, perhaps, a hundred dollars an acre. The hay cut upon it is worth fifteen dollars a ton, at the barn, and straw, and coarse grains in proportion, and hired labor ten or twelve dollars a month. Consequently, the manager of this farm should use all the economy in his power, by the aid of cutting-boxes, and other machinery, to make the least amount of forage supply the wants of his stock; and the internal economy of his barn arranged accordingly; because labor is his cheapest item, and food the dearest. Then, for any contrivance to work up his forage the closest—by way of machinery, or manual labor—by which it will serve the purposes of keeping his stock, is true economy; and the making, and saving of manures is an item of the first importance. His buildings, and their arrangements throughout, should, on these accounts, be constructed in accordance with his practice. If, on the other hand, lands are cheap and productive, and labor comparatively dear, a different practice will prevail. 289 He will feed his hay from the mow, without cutting. The straw will be either stacked out, and the cattle turned to it, to pick what they like of it, and make their beds on the remainder; or, if it is housed, he will throw it into racks, and the stock may eat what they choose. It is but one-third, or one-half the labor to do this, that the other mode requires, and the saving in this makes up, and perhaps more than makes up for the increased quantity of forage consumed. Again, climate may equally affect the mode of winter feeding the stock. The winters may be mild. The hay may be stacked in the fields, when gathered, or put into small barns built for hay storage alone; and the manure, scattered over the fields by the cattle, as they are fed from either of them, may be knocked to pieces with the dung-beetle, in the spring, or harrowed and bushed over the ground; and with the very small quantity of labor required in all this, such practice will be more economical than any other which can be adopted. It is, therefore, a subject of deliberate study with the farmer, in the construction of his out-buildings, what plans he shall adopt in regard to them, and their fitting up and arrangement.
Another thing to consider is the relative value of the livestock, the feed given to them, and the labor spent on feeding and caring for them. Let’s say a farm is near a large town or city. Its value might be around a hundred dollars an acre. The hay cut from it is worth fifteen dollars a ton at the barn, with straw and coarse grains worth proportionately, and hired labor costing ten or twelve dollars a month. So, the manager of this farm should be as economical as possible, using tools like cutting boxes and other machinery to make the least amount of forage meet the needs of his livestock; the barn’s internal setup should reflect this because labor is the cheapest expense and food is the most expensive. Therefore, any method that maximizes the utility of his forage—whether through machinery or manual work—to keep his livestock fed is true economy; also, making and saving manure is extremely important. His buildings and their arrangements should be designed accordingly. On the flip side, if land is cheap and productive, but labor is relatively expensive, a different approach will be taken. 289 He will feed hay directly from the mow without cutting it. The straw will either be stacked outside for the cattle to pick at and use as bedding on what’s left over, or if stored indoors, it will be placed in racks for the livestock to eat as they wish. This method requires only one-third to one-half the labor compared to the other method, and the savings here could more than offset the increased amount of feed consumed. Additionally, climate can also influence how livestock is fed in winter. If winters are mild, hay may be stacked in the fields when harvested or put into small barns designed for hay storage; the manure spread across the fields by the cattle while they are being fed can be broken down by dung-beetles in the spring or spread with a harrow, and with the minimal labor required for all of this, this practice would be more economical than any other option. Thus, the farmer must carefully consider the design of his outbuildings, deciding on the best plans for their setup and arrangement.
With these considerations before us, we shall submit such plans of barn structures as may be adapted for general use, where shelters for the farm crops, and farm stock, are required; and which may, in their interior arrangement, be fitted for almost any locality of our country, as the judgment and the wants of the builder may require.
With these points in mind, we will present plans for barn structures that can be used widely, providing shelter for crops and livestock. These designs can be adjusted to suit various locations in our country, depending on the builder's preferences and needs.
Design I.
This is a design of barn partially on the Pennsylvania plan, with under-ground stables, and a stone-walled basement on three sides, with a line of posts standing open on the yard front, and a wall, pierced by doors and windows, retreating 12 feet under the building, giving, in front, a shelter for stock. Two sheds, by way of wings, are run out to any desired length, on each side. The body of this barn, which is built of wood, above the basement, is 60×46 feet; the posts 18 feet high, above the sills; the roof is elevated at an angle of 40° from a horizontal line, and the gables hooded, or truncated, 14 feet wide at the verge, so as to cover the large doors at the ends. The main roof spreads 3 to 4 feet over the body of the barn, and runs from the side eaves in a straight line, different from what is shown in the engraving, which appears of a gambrel or hipped fashion. The sides are covered with boards laid vertically, and battened with narrow strips, 3 inches wide. The large doors in the ends are 14 feet wide, and 14 feet high. A slatted blind window is in each gable, for ventilation, and a door, 9×6 feet, on the yard side.
This is a barn design that's partially based on the Pennsylvania style, featuring underground stables and a stone-walled basement on three sides. There’s a row of posts open to the yard in front, and a wall with doors and windows that recedes 12 feet under the building, providing shelter for livestock. Two sheds extend on each side like wings, and can be any desired length. The main structure of the barn, made of wood above the basement, measures 60 by 46 feet; the posts are 18 feet high above the sills. The roof rises at a 40° angle from the horizontal line, with the gables trimmed to 14 feet wide at the edge to cover the large doors on the ends. The main roof extends 3 to 4 feet over the barn body and runs straight from the side eaves, differing from what’s illustrated in the engraving, which looks like a gambrel or hipped design. The sides are covered with boards positioned vertically, fastened with narrow strips, 3 inches wide. The large doors on the ends are 14 feet wide and 14 feet high. There’s a slatted blind window in each gable for ventilation, and a door measuring 9 by 6 feet on the yard side.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
A main floor, A, 12 feet wide, runs the whole length through the center of the barn. S, S, are the large doors. H, H, are trap doors, to let hay or straw down to the alleys of the stables beneath. B, is the principal bay for hay storage, 16 feet wide, and runs up to the roof. C, is the bay, 26×16 feet, for the grain mow, if required for that purpose. D, is a granary, 13×16 feet, and 8 feet high. E, a storage room for fanning mill, cutting-box, or other machinery, or implements, of same size and height as the granary. F, is a passage, 8 feet wide, leading from the main floor to the yard door, through which to throw out litter. Over this passage, and the granary, and store-room, may be stored grain in the sheaf, or hay. The main floor will accommodate the thrashing-machine, horse-power, cutting box, &c., &c., when at work. A line of movable sleepers, or poles, may be laid across the floor, 10 feet above it, on a line of girts framed into the main posts, for that purpose, over which, when the sides of the 294 barn are full, either hay or grain may be deposited, up to the ridge of the roof, and thus afford large storage. And if the demands of the crops require it, after the sides and over the floor is thus filled, the floor itself may, a part of it, be used for packing away either hay or grain, by taking off the team after the load is in, and passing them out by a retreating process, on the side of the cart or wagon; and the vehicle, when unloaded, backed out by hand. We have occasionally adopted this method, when crowded for room for increased crops, to great advantage. It requires somewhat more labor, to be sure, but it is much better than stacking out; and a well-filled barn is a good sight to look upon.
A main floor, A, 12 feet wide, runs the entire length of the barn's center. S, S are the large doors. H, H are trap doors for dropping hay or straw down to the stalls below. B is the main bay for hay storage, 16 feet wide, extending up to the roof. C is the grain storage bay, measuring 26×16 feet, if needed for that purpose. D is a granary, 13×16 feet and 8 feet high. E is a storage room for a fanning mill, cutting box, or other machinery, the same size and height as the granary. F is an 8-foot-wide passage leading from the main floor to the yard door, used for throwing out litter. Above this passage, as well as the granary and storage room, grain in sheaves or hay can be stored. The main floor can accommodate the thrashing machine, horse-power, cutting box, etc., when in use. A line of movable sleepers or poles can be placed across the floor, 10 feet above it, lined with girts framed into the main posts for that purpose. When the sides of the barn are full, hay or grain can be placed on top, reaching to the peak of the roof, allowing for ample storage. If crop demands require it, once the sides and floor are filled, part of the floor itself can be used for storing hay or grain. This is done by unloading the team after they bring in the load, and passing them out by backing the cart or wagon out by hand. We have occasionally used this method when we needed more room for extra crops, and it has worked well. It does require a bit more labor, but it's much better than stacking outside, and a well-filled barn is a great sight to see.
MAIN FLOOR PLAN.
MAIN FLOOR LAYOUT.
Underneath the body of the barn are the stables, root cellar, calf houses, or any other accommodation which the farm stock may require; but, for the most economical objects, is here cut up into stables. At the ends, l, l, are passages for the stock to go into their stalls; and also, on the sides, for the men who attend to them. The main passage through the center double line of stalls is 8 feet wide; and on each side are double stalls, 6½ feet wide. From the two end walls, the cattle passages are 5 feet wide, the partition between the stalls running back in a slant, from 5 feet high at the mangers to the floor, at that distance from the walls. The mangers, j, j, are 2 feet wide, or may be 2½ feet, by taking an additional six inches out of the rear passage. The passage is, between the mangers, 3 feet wide, to receive the hay from the trap doors in the floor above.
Under the barn's main area are the stables, root cellar, calf houses, or any other space needed for the livestock; however, for the most efficient use of space, these areas are divided into stables. At the ends, l, l, there are pathways for the livestock to access their stalls; and also, on the sides, for the workers who take care of them. The main aisle down the center double line of stalls is 8 feet wide; and on each side are double stalls that are 6½ feet wide. From the two end walls, the cattle pathways are 5 feet wide, with the partition between the stalls slanting back from 5 feet high at the mangers down to the floor, at that distance from the walls. The mangers, j, j, are 2 feet wide, or can be 2½ feet wide if you take an additional six inches from the rear passage. The space between the mangers is 3 feet wide, designed to receive hay from the trap doors in the floor above.
UNDER-GROUND PLAN AND YARD.
UNDERGROUND PLAN AND YARD.
The most economical plan, for room in tying cattle in their stalls, is to fasten the rope, or chain, whichever is used, (the wooden stanchion, or stanchel, as it is called, to open and shut, enclosing the animal by the neck, we do not like,) into a ring, which is secured by a strong staple into the post which sustains the partition, just at the top of the manger, on each side of the stall. This prevents the cattle in the same stall from interfering with each other, while the partition effectually prevents any contact from the animals on each side of it, in the separate stalls. The bottom of the mangers, for grown cattle, should be a foot above 296 the floor, and the top two and a half feet, which makes it deep enough to hold their food; and the whole, both sides and bottom, should be made of two-inch, sound, strong plank, that they may not be broken down. The back sides of the stalls, next the feeding alleys, should be full 3½ feet high; and if the cattle are large, and disposed to climb into their mangers with their fore-feet, as they sometimes do, a pole, of 2½ or 3 inches in diameter, should be secured across the front of the stall, next the cattle, and over the mangers—say 4½ feet above the floor, to keep them out of the manger, and still give them sufficient room for putting their heads between that and the top of the manger, to get their food. Cattle thus secured in double stalls, take up less room, and lie much warmer, than when in single stalls; besides, the expense of fitting them up being much less—an experience of many years has convinced us on this point. The doors for the passage of the cattle in and out of the stables, should be five feet wide, that they may have plenty of room.
The most cost-effective plan for tying cattle in their stalls is to attach the rope or chain, whichever you choose, to a ring that's secured with a strong staple into the post that supports the partition, just above the manger on each side of the stall. This setup prevents cattle in the same stall from interfering with each other, and the partition effectively keeps animals on either side from making contact. The bottom of the mangers for adult cattle should be a foot above the floor, and the top should be two and a half feet high, making it deep enough to hold their food. Both sides and the bottom should be constructed from two-inch, sturdy planks to prevent them from breaking. The back sides of the stalls, next to the feeding alleys, should be a full 3½ feet high; and if the cattle are large and tend to climb into their mangers with their front feet, which they sometimes do, a pole, about 2½ or 3 inches in diameter, should be secured across the front of the stall, next to the cattle and over the mangers—about 4½ feet above the floor—to keep them from getting into the manger while still allowing enough space for them to put their heads between the pole and the top of the manger to access their food. Cattle secured in double stalls take up less space and stay warmer than when in single stalls; plus, the cost of outfitting them is much lower—years of experience have shown us this. The doors for cattle to enter and exit the stables should be five feet wide to provide ample space.
In front of these stables, on the outside, is a line of posts, the feet of which rest on large flat stones, and support the outer sill of the barn, and form a recess, before named, of 12 feet in width, under which may be placed a line of racks, or mangers for outside cattle, to consume the orts, or leavings of hay rejected by the in-door stock; or, the manure may be housed under it, which is removed from the stables by wheel-barrows. The low line of sheds which extend from the barn on each side of the yard, may be used for the carts, and wagons of the place; or, racks and mangers may be 297 fitted up in them, for outside cattle to consume the straw and coarse forage; or, they may be carried higher than in our plan, and floored overhead, and hay, or other food stored in them for the stock. They are so placed merely to give the idea.
In front of these stables, outside, there’s a line of posts that sit on large flat stones. These posts support the outer sill of the barn and create a 12-foot-wide recess, where a line of racks or mangers can be set up for outside cattle to eat the leftovers of hay that the indoor stock won’t eat. Alternatively, the manure collected from the stables can be stored there, which is moved out using wheelbarrows. The low sheds that stretch from the barn on either side of the yard can be used for the place's carts and wagons, or they can be outfitted with racks and mangers for outside cattle to eat straw and coarse forage. They could also be built higher than in our plan and have a floor above, where hay or other feed can be stored for the stock. They are arranged this way just to give an idea.
There may be no more fitting occasion than this, perhaps, to make a remark or two on the subject of managing stock in stables of any kind, when kept in any considerable numbers; and a word may not be impertinent to the subject in hand, as connected with the construction of stables.
There might not be a better time than now to say a few words about managing stock in any type of stable, especially when you have a decent number of them. It could be relevant to the current topic, especially regarding how stables are built.
There is no greater benefit to cattle, after coming into winter quarters, than a straight-forward regularity in everything appertaining to them. Every animal should have its own particular stall in the stable, where it should always be kept, and in no other. The cattle should be fed and watered at certain hours of the day, as near as may be. When let out of the stables for water, unless the weather is very pleasant, when they may be permitted to lie out an hour or two, they should be immediately put back, and not allowed to range about with the outside cattle. They are more quiet and contented in their stables than elsewhere, and eat less food, than if permitted to run out; and are every way more comfortable, if properly bedded and attended to, as every one will find, on trying it. The habit of many people, in turning their cattle out of the stables in the morning, in all weathers—letting them range about in a cold yard, hooking and thorning each other—is of no possible benefit, unless to rid themselves of the trouble of cleaning the stables, which 298 pays twice its cost in the saving of manure. The outside cattle, which occupy the yard, are all the better, that the stabled ones do not interfere with them. They become habituated to their own quarters, as the others do to their's, and all are better for being each in their own proper place. It may appear a small matter to notice this; but it is a subject of importance, which every one may know who tries it.
There is no greater benefit to cattle, once they move into winter quarters, than having a consistent routine for everything related to them. Every animal should have its own specific stall in the stable, where it should always be kept, and in no other. The cattle should be fed and watered at the same times each day, as closely as possible. When let out of the stables for water, unless the weather is really nice—when they can be allowed to stay outside for an hour or two—they should be put back immediately, without being allowed to mingle with the outside cattle. They are quieter and more content in their stables than elsewhere and eat less food than if they were allowed to roam outside; they are also more comfortable if properly bedded and cared for, as anyone will realize after trying it. The habit of many people who let their cattle out of the stables in the morning, regardless of the weather—allowing them to roam around in a cold yard, poking and butting each other—is of no benefit, except for avoiding the hassle of cleaning the stables, which 298 saves twice its worth in manure. The outside cattle that occupy the yard are better off as the stabled ones do not disturb them. They get used to their own spaces, just like the others do, and all are better for being in their proper places. It may seem like a small detail to point out, but it's actually an important topic that anyone can understand once they try it.
It will be seen that a driving way is built up to the barn doors at the ends; this need not be expensive, and will add greatly to the ease and convenience of its approach. It is needless to remark, that this barn is designed to stand on a shelving piece of ground, or on a slope, which will admit of its cellar stables without much excavation of the earth; and in such a position it may be economically built. No estimate is given of its cost, which must depend upon the price of materials, and the convenience of stone on the farm. The size is not arbitrary, but may be either contracted or extended, according to the requirements of the builder.
It can be seen that a driveway is built up to the barn doors at each end; this doesn’t have to be expensive and will greatly improve accessibility. It’s worth noting that this barn is meant to be built on a sloping piece of land, which will allow for its basement stables without much digging; this position makes it cost-effective to build. No cost estimate is provided, as it will depend on the price of materials and the availability of stone on the farm. The size is flexible and can be adjusted based on the builder's needs.
Design II.
Here is presented the design of a barn built by ourself, about sixteen years since, and standing on the farm we own and occupy; and which has proved so satisfactory in its use, that, save in one or two small particulars, which are here amended, we would not, for a stock barn, alter it in any degree, nor exchange it for one of any description whatever.
Here is the design of a barn we built ourselves about sixteen years ago, located on the farm we own and live on. It has been so satisfactory in its use that, except for one or two small changes made here, we wouldn’t want to change it in any way for a stock barn, nor would we trade it for any other type of barn.
For the farmer who needs one of but half the size, or greater, or less, it may be remarked that the extent of this need be no hindrance to the building of one of any size—as the general design may be adopted, and carried out, either in whole or in part, according to his wants, and the economy of its accommodation preserved throughout. The principle of the structure is what is intended to be shown.
For the farmer who needs one that’s half the size, or larger, or smaller, it should be noted that the extent of this need doesn’t stop the construction of one of any size—as the overall design can be used and executed, either fully or partially, based on his needs, while keeping the efficiency of its use intact. The principle of the structure is what's meant to be highlighted.
The main body of this barn stands on the ground, 100×50 feet, with eighteen-feet posts, and a broad, sheltering roof, of 40° pitch from a horizontal line, and truncated at the gables to the width of the main doors below. The sills stand 4 feet above the ground, and a raised driving way to the doors admits the loads of grain and forage into it. The manner of building the whole structure would be, to frame and put up the 302 main building as if it was to have no attachment whatever, and put on the roof, and board up the gable ends. Then frame, and raise adjoining it, on the long sides, and on the rear end—for the opposite gable end to that, is the entrance front to the barn—a continuous lean-to, 16 feet wide, attaching it to the posts of the barn, strongly, by girts. These ranges of lean-to stand on the ground level, nearly—high enough, however, to let a terrier dog under the floors, to keep out the rats—but quite 3 feet below the sills of the barn. The outer posts of the lean-to's should be 12 feet high, and 12½ feet apart, from center to center, except at the extreme corners, which would be 16 feet. One foot below the roof-plates of the main building, and across the rear gable end, a line of girts should be framed into the posts, as a rest for the upper ends of the lean-to rafters, that they may pass under, and a foot below the lower ends of the main roof rafters, to make a break in the roof of one foot, and allow a line of eave gutters under it, if needed, and to show the lean-to line of roof as distinct from the other. The stables are 7 feet high, from the lower floor to the girts overhead, which connect them with the main line of barn posts; thus giving a loft of 4 feet in height at the eaves, and of 12 feet at the junction with the barn. In this loft is large storage for hay, and coarse forage, and bedding for the cattle, which is put in by side windows, level with the loft floor—as seen in the plate. In the center of the rear, end lean-to, is a large door, corresponding with the front entrance to the barn, as shown in the design, 12 feet high, and 14 feet wide, 303 to pass out the wagons and carts which have discharged their loads in the barn, having entered at the main front door. A line of board, one foot wide, between the line of the main and lean-to roofs, is then nailed on, to shut up the space; and the rear gable end boarded down to the roof of the lean-to attached to it. The front end, and the stables on them vertically boarded, and battened, as directed in the last design; the proper doors and windows inserted, and the outside is finished.
The main part of this barn is built on the ground, measuring 100×50 feet, with posts that are eighteen feet tall and a wide, protective roof that has a 40° pitch from a horizontal line, which is cut at the gables to match the width of the main doors below. The sills are 4 feet above the ground, and a raised pathway leads to the doors, allowing the loading of grain and forage. To build the entire structure, you would frame and erect the main building as if it were standalone, put on the roof, and cover the gable ends. Then, you would frame and raise a continuous lean-to on the long sides and at the back—since the opposite gable end is the barn's entrance—that is 16 feet wide, firmly attaching it to the barn posts with girts. These lean-tos are near ground level, high enough to let a terrier dog crawl under the floors to keep out rats, but a good 3 feet below the barn sills. The outer posts of the lean-tos should be 12 feet high, and 12½ feet apart from center to center, except at the extreme corners, which would be 16 feet apart. One foot below the roof plates of the main building, and across the rear gable end, a row of girts should be attached to the posts to support the upper ends of the lean-to rafters, allowing them to pass beneath and one foot below the lower ends of the main roof rafters, creating a one-foot break in the roof and providing space for eave gutters if needed, while clearly delineating the line of the lean-to roof from the main roof. The stables stand 7 feet high from the lower floor to the girts overhead, connecting them to the main line of barn posts, which results in a loft height of 4 feet at the eaves and 12 feet at the junction with the barn. This loft offers ample storage for hay, coarse forage, and bedding for the cattle, accessible through side windows level with the loft floor—as shown in the illustration. In the center of the rear end lean-to, there is a large door that aligns with the front entrance of the barn, as illustrated in the design, measuring 12 feet high and 14 feet wide, allowing wagons and carts that have unloaded their loads in the barn to exit after entering through the main front door. A one-foot wide board is then nailed between the main and lean-to roofs to enclose that space, and the rear gable end is boarded down to the roof of the attached lean-to. The front end and stables are vertically boarded and battened, according to the previous design; doors and windows are fitted, and the exterior is completed.
FLOOR PLAN.
Floor plan.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
Entering the large door, (a,) at the front end, 14 feet wide, and 14 feet high, the main floor (g,) passes through the entire length of the barn, and rear lean-to, 116 feet—the last 16 feet through the lean-to—and sloping 3 feet to the outer sill, and door, (a,) of that appendage. On the left of the entrance is a recess, (e,) of 20×18 feet, to be used as a thrashing floor, and for machinery, cutting feed, &c., &c.—5 feet next the end being cut off for a passage to the stable. Beyond this is a bay, (b,) 18×70 feet, for the storage of hay, or grain, leaving a passage at the further end, of 5 feet wide, to go into the further stables. This bay is bounded on the extreme left, by the line of outside posts of the barn. On the right of the main door is a granary, (d,) 10×18 feet, two stories high, and a flight of steps leading from the lower into the upper room. Beyond this is another bay, (b,) corresponding with the one just described on the opposite side. The passages at the ends of the bays, (e, e,) have steps of 3 304 feet descent, to bring them down on to a level with the stable floors of the lean-to. A passage in each of the two long side lean-to's, (e, e,) 3 feet wide, receives the hay forage for cattle, or other stock, thrown into them from the bays, and the lofts over the stables; and from them is thrown into the mangers, (h, h.) The two apartments in the extreme end lean-to, (f, f,) 34×16 feet each, may be occupied as a hospital for invalid cattle, or partitioned off for calves, or any other 305 purpose. A calving house for the cows which come in during the winter, is always convenient, and one of these may be used for such purpose. The stalls, (i, i,) are the same as described in Design I, and back of them is the passage for the cattle, as they pass in and out of their stalls. The stable doors, (j, j,) are six in number. Small windows, for ventilation, should be cut in the rear of the stalls, as marked, and for throwing out the manure, with sliding board shutters. This completes the barn accommodation—giving twenty-eight double stalls, where fifty-six grown cattle may be tied up, with rooms for twenty to thirty calves in the end stables. If a larger stock is kept, young cattle may be tied up, with their heads to the bays, on the main floor, beyond the thrashing floor, which we practice. This will hold forty young cattle. The manure is taken out on a wheel-barrow, and no injury done to the floor. They will soon eat out a place where their forage can be put, and do no injury beyond that to the hay in the bays, as it is too closely packed for them to draw it out any farther. In this way we can accommodate more than a hundred head of cattle, of assorted ages.
Entering the large door (a), which is 14 feet wide and 14 feet high, you step into the main floor (g), stretching the entire length of the barn and rear lean-to, measuring 116 feet—the last 16 feet leading through the lean-to—and sloping down 3 feet to the outer sill and door (a) of that extension. On the left side of the entrance is a recess (e) measuring 20x18 feet, designated as a thrashing floor, and for machinery, cutting feed, etc.—5 feet from the end is cut off for a passage to the stable. Beyond this is a bay (b) that is 18x70 feet, used for storing hay or grain, leaving a 5-foot-wide passage at the far end that leads to the other stables. This bay is bordered on the far left by the outside posts of the barn. To the right of the main door is a two-story granary (d) measuring 10x18 feet, with stairs leading from the lower to the upper level. Beyond this is another bay (b) mirroring the one just described on the opposite side. The passages at the ends of the bays (e, e) have steps with a 3-foot descent, bringing them down to the level of the stable floors in the lean-to. There is a 3-foot-wide passage in each of the two long side lean-tos (e, e) for hay and forage for cattle or other stock, which is tossed in from the bays and the lofts above the stables, and then placed into the mangers (h, h). The two spaces in the far end lean-to (f, f) each measure 34x16 feet and can be used as a hospital for sick cattle, or divided for calves, or for any other purpose. A calving house for cows coming in during the winter is always useful, and one of these spaces may be designated for that. The stalls (i, i) are the same as outlined in Design I, and behind them is the passage for the cattle to move in and out of their stalls. There are six stable doors (j, j). Small windows for ventilation should be placed in the rear of the stalls for manure disposal, equipped with sliding board shutters. This completes the barn setup—providing twenty-eight double stalls where fifty-six adult cattle can be tied up, along with space for twenty to thirty calves in the end stables. If a larger herd is maintained, younger cattle can be tied up with their heads facing the bays on the main floor, past the thrashing floor, which we practice. This setup can hold forty young cattle. Manure is removed with a wheelbarrow, causing no damage to the floor. They will quickly create a spot for their forage, and will cause no further harm to the hay in the bays, as it is packed too tightly for them to pull it out further. In this way, we can accommodate more than one hundred cattle of various ages.
The hay in the bays may drop three feet below the level of the main floor, by placing a tier of rough timbers and poles across them, to keep it from the ground, and many tons of additional storage be thus provided. We have often stored one hundred and fifty tons of hay in this barn; and it will hold even more, if thoroughly packed, and the movable girts over the main floor be used, as described in Design I.
The hay in the bays can be lowered three feet below the main floor by setting up a layer of rough timbers and poles across them to keep it off the ground, allowing for many tons of extra storage. We've frequently stored one hundred and fifty tons of hay in this barn, and it can hold even more if packed tightly and the movable girders over the main floor are utilized, as outlined in Design I.
306 The chief advantages in a barn of this plan are, the exceeding convenience of getting the forage to the stock. When the barn is full, and feeding is first commenced, with a hay knife, we commence on each side next the stables, on the top of the bays, cut a well down to the alley way in front of the mangers, which is left open up to the stable roof. This opens a passage for the hay to be thrown into the alleys, and in a short time it is so fed out on each side, that, the sides of the main barn being open to them, the hay can be thrown along their whole distance, and fed to the cattle as wanted; and so at the rear end stables, in the five-foot alley adjoining them. If a root cellar be required, it may be made under the front part of the main floor, and a trap-door lead to it. For a milk dairy, this arrangement is an admirable one—we so used it for four years; or for stall-feeding, it is equally convenient. One man will do more work, so far as feeding is concerned, in this barn, than two can do in one of almost any other arrangement; and the yards outside may be divided into five separate inclosures, with but little expense, and still be large enough for the cattle that may want to use them. It matters not what kind of stock may be kept in this barn; it is convenient for all alike. Even sheep may be accommodated in it with convenience. But low, open sheds, inclosed by a yard, are better for them; with storage for hay overhead, and racks and troughs beneath.
306 The main advantages of a barn designed this way are the great convenience of getting feed to the animals. When the barn is full and feeding starts, we use a hay knife to begin on each side next to the stables. At the top of the bays, we cut a well down to the alleyway in front of the mangers, which remains open to the stable roof. This creates a path for the hay to be tossed into the alleys, and soon it’s fed out on each side. Since the sides of the main barn are open, hay can be thrown along the entire length and fed to the cattle as needed, as well as at the rear-end stables in the five-foot alley next to them. If a root cellar is needed, it can be built under the front part of the main floor, with a trap-door leading to it. For a milk dairy, this setup is excellent—we used it for four years; and it’s also very convenient for stall-feeding. One person can do more feeding work in this barn than two can manage in almost any other configuration. The outdoor yards can be divided into five separate enclosures at minimal cost, and they’ll still be large enough for the cattle that need to use them. It doesn’t matter what type of stock is housed in this barn; it works well for all of them. Even sheep can be easily accommodated, though low open sheds enclosed by a yard are better for them, with storage for hay above and racks and troughs below.
This barn is built of wood. It may be well constructed, with stone underpinning, without mortar, for $1,000 to $1,500, as the price of materials may govern. 307 And if the collection of the water from the roofs be an object, cheap gutters to carry it into one or more cisterns may be added, at an expense of $200 to $300.
This barn is made of wood. It can be nicely built, with stone supports, without mortar, for $1,000 to $1,500, depending on the cost of materials. 307 And if collecting water from the roofs is a priority, affordable gutters to direct it into one or more tanks can be added, costing $200 to $300.
As before observed, a barn may be built on this principle, of any size, and the stables, or lean-to's may only attach to one side or end; or they may be built as mere sheds, with no storage room over the cattle. The chief objection to stabling cattle in the body of the barn is, the continual decay of the most important timbers, such as sills, sleepers, &c., &c., by the leakage of the stale, and manure of the cattle on to them, and the loss of so much valuable storage as they would occupy, for hay and grain. By the plan described, the stables have no attachment to the sills, and other durable barn timbers below; and if the stable sills and sleepers decay, they are easily and cheaply replaced with others. Taking it altogether, we can recommend no better, nor, as we think, so good, and so cheap a plan for a stock barn, as this.
As mentioned earlier, a barn can be built using this principle in any size, and the stables or lean-tos can be attached to just one side or end; they can also be constructed as simple sheds without storage space above the cattle. The main downside to keeping cattle in the body of the barn is the ongoing decay of important timbers, like sills and sleepers, due to leaks from urine and manure, which also takes up valuable space that could be used for storing hay and grain. With the described plan, the stables don’t connect to the sills and other sturdy barn timbers below, so if the stable sills and sleepers decay, they can be easily and affordably replaced. Overall, we believe there is no better or, in our view, cheaper plan for a stock barn than this one.
We deem it unnecessary to discuss the subject of water to cattle yards, as every farm has its own particular accommodations, or inconveniences in that regard; and the subject of leading water by pipes into different premises, is too well understood to require remark. Where these can not be had, and springs or streams are not at hand, wells and pumps must be provided, in as much convenience as the circumstances of the case will admit. Water is absolutely necessary, and that in quantity, for stock uses; and every good manager will exercise his best judgment to obtain it.
We believe it's unnecessary to discuss water for cattle yards, since every farm has its own unique setup or issues related to it. The topic of bringing water through pipes to different areas is well understood and doesn't need further comment. When pipes aren't available and there are no springs or streams nearby, wells and pumps should be installed, as conveniently as the situation allows. Water is essential, and in large amounts, for livestock; every good manager will use their best judgment to secure it.
BARN ATTACHMENTS.
It may be expected, perhaps, that in treating so fully as we have of the several kinds of farm building, a full cluster of out-buildings should be drawn and exhibited, showing their relative positions and accommodation. This can not be done, however, except as a matter of "fancy;" and if attempted, might not be suited to the purposes of a single individual, by reason of the particular location where they would be situated, and the accommodation which the buildings might require. Convenience of access to the barns, from the fields where the crops are grown, a like convenience to get out manures upon those fields, and a ready communication with the dwelling house, are a part of the considerations which are to govern their position, or locality. Economy in labor, in the various avocations at the barn, and its necessary attachments; and the greatest convenience in storage, and the housing of the various stock, grains, implements, and whatever else may demand accommodation, are other considerations to be taken into the account, all to have a bearing upon them. Compactness is always an object in such buildings, when not obtained at a sacrifice of 309 some greater advantage, and should be one of the items considered in placing them; and in their construction, next to the arrangement of them in the most convenient possible manner for their various objects, a due regard to their architectural appearance should be studied. Such appearance, where their objects are apparent, can easily be secured. Utility should be their chief point of expression; and no style of architecture, or finish, can be really bad, where this expression is duly consulted, and carried out, even in the humblest way of cheapness, or rusticity.
It might be assumed that since we've thoroughly discussed the various types of farm buildings, we would present a complete set of outbuildings with their relative positions and features. However, this can't be done except in a hypothetical sense, and any attempt may not suit an individual’s needs based on their specific location and the requirements of the buildings. Considerations for placing these buildings include easy access to barns from the fields where crops are grown, the ease of spreading manure on those fields, and quick communication with the main house. Efficiency in labor across the different activities at the barn, as well as convenient storage for various supplies, livestock, equipment, and anything else that needs accommodation, should also be factored in. Compactness is always a goal for these buildings, provided it doesn’t compromise a greater benefit, and it should be one of the factors considered in their placement. In constructing them, along with arranging them in the most convenient way for their specific functions, attention to their architectural appearance should also be prioritized. This appearance, when their purposes are clear, can be easily achieved. The main focus should be on utility; no style of architecture or finish can truly be considered bad if this principle is respected and implemented, even in the simplest forms of affordability or rustic charm.
We have heretofore sufficiently remarked on the folly of unnecessary pretension in the farm buildings, of any kind; and nothing can appear, and really be more out of place, than ambitious structures intended only for the stock, and crops. Extravagant expenditure on these, any more than an extravagant expenditure on the dwelling and its attachments, does not add to the selling value of the farm, nor to its economical management, in a productive capacity; and he who is about to build, should make his proposed buildings a study for months, in all their different requirements and conveniences, before he commences their erection. Mistakes in their design, and location, have cost men a whole after life of wear-and-tear of temper, patience, and labor, to themselves, and to all who were about them; and it is better to wait even two or three years, to fully mature the best plans of building, than by hurrying, to mis-locate, mis-arrange, and miss, in fact, the very best application in their structure of which such buildings are capable.
We have previously pointed out how foolish it is to have unnecessary pretensions in farm buildings of any kind. Nothing looks more out of place than grand structures meant only for livestock and crops. Spending excessively on these buildings, just like spending excessively on the house and its surroundings, doesn’t increase the farm's selling value or its efficient management for productivity. Anyone planning to build should spend months studying the various needs and conveniences of the proposed buildings before starting construction. Mistakes in design and location can lead to a lifetime of stress, frustration, and hard work for oneself and those around them. It’s better to wait two or three years to develop the best building plans than to rush and end up misplacing, poorly arranging, and ultimately failing to achieve the full potential of what those buildings could be.
310 A word might also be added about barn-yards. The planning and management of these, also, depends much upon the course the farmer has to pursue in the keeping of his stock, the amount of waste litter, such as straw, &c., which he has to dispose of, and the demands of the farm for animal and composted manures. There are different methods of constructing barn-yards, in different parts of the country, according to climate and soils, and the farmer must best consult his own experience, the most successful examples about him, and the publications which treat of that subject, in its connection with farm husbandry, to which last subject this item more properly belongs.
310 A few words can also be shared about barn-yards. The planning and management of these areas depend heavily on the type of farming the farmer practices, the amount of waste litter, like straw and so on, that he needs to manage, and the farm's requirements for animal and composted manures. Various methods for building barn-yards exist in different parts of the country, depending on the climate and soil types. The farmer should rely on his own experiences, observe the most successful examples around him, and refer to publications that discuss this topic in relation to farm management, which is where this subject rightly belongs.
RABBITS.
It may appear that we are extending our "Rural Architecture" to an undue length, in noticing a subject so little attended to in this country as Rabbit accommodations. But, as with other small matters which we have noticed, this may create a new source of interest and attachment to country life, we conclude to give it a place.
It might seem like we're stretching our "Rural Architecture" section a bit too far by discussing a topic that's not often considered in this country, like Rabbit accommodations. However, just like with other small topics we've mentioned, this could spark new interest and appreciation for country life, so we've decided it deserves a place here.
It is a matter of surprise to an American first visiting England, to see the quantities of game which abound at certain seasons of the year in the London and other markets of that country, in contrast with the scanty supply, or rather no supply at all, existing in the markets of American cities. The reason for such difference is, that in England, Scotland, Wales, and Ireland, every acre of the soil is appropriated to some profitable use, while we, from the abundance of land in America, select only the best for agricultural purposes, and let the remainder go barren and uncared for. Lands appropriated to the rearing of game, when fit for farm pasturage or tillage, is unprofitable, generally, with us; but there are thousands of acres barren for other purposes, that might be devoted to the breeding 312 and pasturage of rabbits, and which, by thus appropriating them, might be turned to profitable account. All the preparation required is, to enclose the ground with a high and nearly close paling fence, and the erection of a few rude hutches inside, for winter shelter and the storage of their food. They will burrow into the ground, and breed with great rapidity; and in the fall and winter seasons, they will be fat for market with the food they gather from the otherwise worthless soil over which they run. Rocky, bushy, and evergreen grounds, either hill, dale, or plain, are good for them, wherever the soils are dry and friable. The rabbit is a gross feeder, living well on what many grazing animals reject, and gnawing down all kinds of bushes, briars, and noxious weeds.
It's surprising for an American visiting England for the first time to see the abundance of game available in London and other markets during certain times of the year, especially compared to the very limited, if any, supply found in American cities. This difference exists because in England, Scotland, Wales, and Ireland, every inch of land is put to some productive use, while in America, due to the vast amount of land, we typically choose only the best for farming and leave the rest uncultivated. Land set aside for hunting game, when it could be used for farming or grazing, is generally seen as unprofitable here; however, there are thousands of acres that are not being used for anything else that could be turned into spots for breeding and grazing rabbits, which could ultimately be beneficial. All that’s needed is to fence off the area with a tall, sturdy fence and build a few simple hutches for winter shelter and food storage. Rabbits will dig burrows and breed quickly; by fall and winter, they'll be ready for sale, thriving on the food they find in what would otherwise be neglected land. Rocky, bushy, and evergreen areas, whether hilly, flat, or in a valley, are suitable for them as long as the soil is dry and crumbly. Rabbits have a hearty appetite and thrive on what many farm animals ignore, munching on all sorts of bushes, brambles, and pesky weeds. 312
The common domestic rabbits are probably the best for market purposes, and were they to be made an object of attention, immense tracts of mountain land in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and the New York and New England highlands could be made available for this object.
The common pet rabbits are probably the best for commercial use, and if they were given proper attention, large areas of mountainous land in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and the New York and New England highlands could be utilized for this purpose.
Some may think this a small business. So is making pins, and rearing chickens, and bees. But there are an abundance of people, whose age and capacity are just fitted for it, and for want of other employment are a charge upon their friends or the public; and now, when our cities and large towns are so readily reached by railroads from all parts of the country, our farmers should study to apply their land to the production of everything that will find a profitable market. Things unthought of, a few years ago, now find 313 a large consumption in our large cities and towns, by the aid of railroads; and we know of no good reason, why this production and traffic should not continue to an indefinite extent. When the breeding of rabbits is commenced, get a good treatise on the breeding and rearing of them, which may be found at many of the bookstores.
Some might consider this a small business. So is making pins, raising chickens, and keeping bees. But there are plenty of people, whose age and abilities are suited for this, and who, due to a lack of other work, end up being a burden on their friends or the public; and now, when our cities and big towns are easily accessible by railroads from all over the country, our farmers should look to use their land to produce everything that will sell well. Things that were unthinkable a few years ago are now in high demand in our big cities and towns, thanks to railroads; and we see no good reason why this production and trade shouldn't keep expanding indefinitely. When you start breeding rabbits, make sure to get a solid guide on how to breed and raise them, which you can find at many bookstores.
As the rearing of rabbits, and their necessary accommodation, is not a subject to which we have given much personal attention, we applied to Francis Rotch, Esq., of Morris, Otsego county, New York, who is probably the most accomplished rabbit "fancier" in the United States, for information, with which he has kindly furnished us. His beautiful and high-bred animals have won the highest premiums, at the shows of the New York State Agricultural Society. He thus answers:
As we haven't personally focused much on raising rabbits and their housing needs, we reached out to Francis Rotch, Esq., of Morris, Otsego County, New York. He is probably the most skilled rabbit enthusiast in the United States, and he kindly provided us with information. His beautiful, high-quality rabbits have won top prizes at the shows of the New York State Agricultural Society. Here’s his response:
"I'm sending you the promised plan from Mr. Alfred Rodman, of Dedham, Massachusetts, which I believe will provide you with the information you're looking for on these topics.
"Rabbits raised for profit near a city and mills can be kept at a very low cost; and once people recognize them as a food source, they will be generously purchased by food enthusiasts, as their meat is as tender as chicken and their fat is mild and very rich.
"I'm surprised they're not more widely maintained, both for fun and for experimental purposes.
"I believe that many people have a natural love for animals, but it's not easy to nurture that love without more space than is often available in city homes. Chickens and pigeons can invade our neighbors' properties and often cause problems. However, this isn't a concern with rabbits, which take up so little space that if there's a shed, there can be a rabbit hutch. Children in England are encouraged to nurture their affection for animals because it promotes good morals and positive feelings, and provides a form of home entertainment, unlike activities found in the streets."
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Drawn from life, by Mr. Francis Rotch.
Drawn from life by Mr. Francis Rotch.
Mr. Rotch continues:
Mr. Rotch continues:
"I just finished the attached drawing of a 'fancy rabbit,' which I hope will serve your needs as an illustration of what this little animal should look like in terms of shape, color, markings, and stance, according to the preferences of various societies in and out of London, who are its biggest fans and supporters. These enthusiasts hold regular meetings to showcase the rabbits, where awards and significant prizes are given for specimens that meet their standards of excellence. This standard is, of course, conventional; and, as you might expect, it combines shapes and colors that are quite challenging to achieve. While it is based on the best principles of general breeding, a lot of fancy and beauty are needed to meet the criteria for a prize rabbit. For example, the head should be small and clean; the shoulders should be wide and full; the chest should be broad and deep; and the back should be wide, with a large loin. So far, these are the characteristics of all truly good and improved animals; to this, we must add some 'fancy' traits: the eye should be round, full, and bright; the ear should be long, broad, and droopy, with a soft, delicate texture, hanging almost vertically next to the head—this is referred to as its 'carriage.' The color should be in rich, solid masses on the body, spreading across the back, sides, and hindquarters, but breaking into spots and patches on the shoulder, known as the 'chain'; the coloration on the back is called the 'saddle.' The head should be vibrant with color, featuring white on the forehead and cheeks; the markings over the bridge of the nose and down to the lips should be dark and somewhat butterfly-shaped, which is where this mark gets its name; however, the ear must be uniform in color. Add to all this a large, full dewlap, and you'll have a rabbit that's ready to 'go in and win.'
"The most respected colors are black and white; yellow and white; tortoiseshell and white; blue and white; and gray and white. These are known as 'broken colors,' while those of one solid color are referred to as 'selfs.'"
It will be observed that Mr. Rotch here describes a beautiful "fancy" variety of "lop-eared" rabbits, which he brought from England a few years since. They were, originally, natives of Madagascar. He continues:
It’s noticeable that Mr. Rotch is describing a beautiful "fancy" variety of "lop-eared" rabbits, which he brought from England a few years ago. They originally came from Madagascar. He goes on:
"The domestic rabbit, in all its varieties, has always been and continues to be a favorite in many regions of the European continent:
"In Holland, rabbits are bred based solely on color, which should be pure white, with dark ears, feet, legs, and tail; this color pattern creates a unique effect, and overall, it is a charming little creature. The French breed a long, lanky rabbit that appears large but lacks depth and width, and consequently, is not very healthy; color is not a focus, and the markings happen by chance. The White Angola, known for its beautiful long fur and red eyes, is also quite popular in France.
"In England, rabbits used to be considered 'farm stock!' and thousands of acres were dedicated exclusively to their production. Families relied on them for income, and they helped pay rents, rates, and taxes through their breeding and sales. The 'gray-skins' went to hat makers, and the 'silver-skins' were sent to China to be made into furs, while their meat was a popular dish at home. This was common in Yorkshire, Lincolnshire, and many other counties with light sandy soils before the broader adoption of root crops and crop rotation increased the value of such land. However, I remember visiting a farm owned by Lord Onslow in Surrey, which covered about 1,400 acres. It was managed by a well-known flock-master and farmer who kept several hundred rabbits for their manure, which he used for his turnep crop. Additionally, their skins and bodies were quite profitable, even though caring for them required an older man and a boy, along with a donkey and cart. Their diet mainly consisted of brewer's grains, miller's waste, bran, hay, clover, and roots, with the upkeep costing no more than two pence a week. The hutches were located under a long shed, open on all sides for easy cleaning and feeding. I was informed that the manure was highly valued by market gardeners around London, who were willing to pay 2s. 6d. a bushel at the rabbitries. These rabbitries are quite common in towns and cities across England and serve as a source of enjoyment or profit for everyone, from wealthy individuals to day laborers. It’s not uncommon for the latter to produce a rabbit from an old tea chest or dry-goods box that outshines a competitor from a fancy mahogany hutch or decorative rabbitries."
"Rabbit food includes a wide range of options, such as all types of grains, bran, pea husks, miller's waste, brewer's grains, clover and other hays, as well as various weeds like plantain, dock, mallow, dandelion, purslane, thistles, and more."
"The rabbit easily adapts to the needs, situation, and surroundings of its owner; it takes up little space, breeds frequently, matures quickly, and is a healthy animal. However, it needs to be kept clean and fed carefully with fresh food, which should always be free from dew or rain—water isn't necessary when they're fed 'greens.' My feeding routine includes one gill of oats in the morning, along with a medium-sized cabbage leaf or an equal amount of any other vegetable. A rabbit in confinement must be fed carefully with fresh food. At noon, I give a handful of cut hay or clover chaff, and in the evening, I repeat the morning's feeding. For does that are nursing, I provide as much green and dry food as they want. The cost to me is about three cents per week per rabbit.
"I’m not claiming this is the best or most cost-effective way to feed, but it works for me. If I lived in a town or near mills, I'd use other, cheaper options. When I separate my young rabbits from their mother, usually at eight, ten, or twelve weeks old, I let them stay together until they're about six months old. At that point, I have to move them into separate hutches to stop them from fighting and harming each other. By that age, the mother rabbit is ready to breed; her gestation lasts around thirty-one or thirty-two days, and she can have anywhere from three or four to a dozen young in one litter. It's best not to let her raise more than six, or even four, at once—the fewer there are, the larger and healthier they will be.
"Young rabbits can be slaughtered for meat at any age, from twelve weeks to twelve months old, and are a popular addition to the country pantry. The male is kept away from the doe to prevent him from harming the young rabbits.
"Hutches can be made individually or stacked to fit the space, which should allow for proper ventilation. The ideal size is about three feet long, two feet deep, and fourteen inches high, with a small section partitioned off at one end, nearly a foot wide, to serve as a breeding area for the doe. The front has a wire door, and there’s an opening in the back for cleaning; the floor should slope down towards the back of the hutch by two inches. All edges should be covered in tin to prevent them from being chewed on.
"Having now outlined the key features and qualities that make a good 'fancy lop-eared rabbit' and how to care for it, let me point out the noticeable difference between Americans and people from many other countries regarding their affection for animals, or what are known as 'fancy pets.' As a society, we generally have little knowledge or care for them. In fact, we hardly have more than a self-serving relationship with dogs, and all too rarely does our bond with this loyal companion keep him safe from the influence of the almighty dollar.
"The workers, technicians, and laborers in other countries seem to have a real enthusiasm for these activities and take great pride in raising and improving the smaller animals, even though they often have to work hard just to afford the food for them. Here, it's also clear that positive home influences are valued and supported by employers, as they serve as a better alternative to other, more questionable activities and interests."
We here present the elevation, and floor plan of Mr. Rodman's rabbitry, together with the front and rear views of the hutches within them:
We present the layout and floor plan of Mr. Rodman's rabbitry, along with the front and back views of the hutches inside it:
NO. I.—ELEVATION.
NO. I.—ELEVATION.
NO II.—MAIN FLOOR PLAN.
NO II.—MAIN FLOOR PLAN.
323 No. 1 is the gable end elevation of the building, with a door and window.
323 No. 1 shows the gable end view of the building, featuring a door and a window.
No. 2 is the main-floor plan, or living room for the rabbits.
No. 2 is the main floor plan, or the living room for the rabbits.
EXPLANATION.
A, the doe's hutches, with nest boxes attached. B, hutches three feet long, with movable partitions for the young rabbits; the two lower hutches are used for the stock bucks. C, a tier of grain boxes on the floor for feeding the rabbits—the covers sloping out toward the room. D, small trapdoor, leading into the manure cellar beneath. E, large trapdoor leading into root cellar. F, troughs for leading off urine from rear of hutches into the manure cellar at K, K. G, wooden trunk leading from chamber above No. 3, through this into manure cellar. H, trap opening into manure cellar. I, stairs leading into loft No. 3, with hinged trapdoor overhead; when open, it will turn up against the wall, and leave a passage to clear out the hutches.
A, the doe's hutches, with nest boxes attached. B, hutches three feet long, with movable partitions for the young rabbits; the two lower hutches are used for the stock bucks. C, a tier of grain boxes on the floor for feeding the rabbits—the covers sloping out toward the room. D, small trapdoor, leading into the manure cellar beneath. E, large trapdoor leading into root cellar. F, troughs for draining urine from the back of the hutches into the manure cellar at K, K. G, wooden trunk leading from the chamber above No. 3, through this into the manure cellar. H, trap opening into the manure cellar. I, stairs leading into loft No. 3, with hinged trapdoor overhead; when open, it will flip up against the wall, making it easy to clear out the hutches.
Note.—The grain boxes are one foot high in front, and fifteen inches at the back, with sloping bottoms, and sloping covers. The floors of the hutches have a slope of two inches back. The hutches are furnished, at the back of the floor, with pieces of zinc, to keep them free from the drippings from above. The hutches are 16 inches high, 3 feet long, and 2 feet deep.
Note.—The grain boxes are one foot high in the front and fifteen inches at the back, with sloped bottoms and slanted covers. The floors of the hutches have a two-inch slope towards the back. The hutches are equipped at the back of the floor with zinc pieces to prevent drippings from above. The hutches measure 16 inches high, 3 feet long, and 2 feet deep.
The foregoing plans and explanations might perhaps be sufficient for the guidance of such as wish to construct a rabbitry for their own use; but as a complete arrangement of all the rooms which may be conveniently appropriated to this object, to make it a complete 324 thing, may be acceptable to the reader, we conclude, even at the risk of prolixity, to insert the upper loft, and cellar apartments, with which we have been furnished; hoping that our youthful friends will set themselves about the construction of a branch of rural employment so home-attaching in its associations.
The plans and explanations above might be enough for those who want to build a rabbitry for their own use. However, to provide a complete layout of all the rooms that can be conveniently used for this purpose, to make it a comprehensive project, we’ll go ahead, even if it makes things a bit lengthy, to include the upper loft and cellar spaces we've been given. We hope our younger readers will take on the construction of this branch of rural work, which is so meaningful in its connections. 324
No. 3 is the loft or chamber story, next above the main floor.
No. 3 is the loft or upper floor, located right above the main level.
EXPLANATION.
A, place for storing hay. B, stairs leading from below. C, room for young rabbits. D, trapdoor into trunk leading to manure cellar. E, partition four feet high. This allows of ventilation between the two windows, in summer, which would be cut off, were the partition carried all the way up.
A, a spot for keeping hay. B, stairs coming up from below. C, room for young rabbits. D, trapdoor into trunk leading to the manure cellar. E, partition four feet high. This allows for ventilation between the two windows in summer, which would be blocked if the partition went all the way up.
No. 4 is the cellar under the rabbitry.
No. 4 is the basement under the rabbit house.
EXPLANATION.
A, manure cellar. B, root cellar. C, stairs leading to first, or main floor. D, stairs leading outside. E, window—lighting both rooms of cellar.
A, manure cellar. B, root cellar. C, stairs leading to the first floor, or main floor. D, stairs leading outside. E, window—lighting both rooms of the cellar.
No. 5 is a front section of rabbit hutches, eight in number, two in a line, four tiers high, one above another, with wire-screened doors, hinges, and buttons for fastening. A, the grain trough, is at the bottom.
No. 5 is a front section of rabbit hutches, there are eight in total, two in a row, four levels high, stacked one on top of the other, with wire mesh doors, hinges, and latches for securing. A, the grain trough, is positioned at the bottom.
No. 6 is the floor section of the hutches, falling, as before mentioned, two inches from front to rear.
No. 6 is the floor section of the hutches, sloping, as previously mentioned, two inches from front to back.
A, is the door to lift up, for cleaning out the floors. B, is the zinc plate, to carry off the urine and running 327 wash of the floors. C, is the trough for carrying off this offal into the manure cellars, through the trunk, as seen in No. 2.
A is the door for accessing the lift to clean the floors. B is the zinc plate that collects urine and the wash from the floors. C is the trough that moves this waste into the manure cellars through the trunk, as shown in No. 2.
No. 7 is a rear section of hutches, same as in No. 5, with the waste trough at the bottom leading into the trench before described, with the cross section, No. 8, before described in No. 6.
No. 7 is a back section of hutches, just like No. 5, with the waste trough at the bottom that leads into the trench mentioned earlier, along with the cross-section, No. 8, described in No. 6.
A, a grated door at the back of the hutch, for ventilation in summer, and covered with a thin board in winter. B, a flap-door, four inches wide, which is raised for cleaning out the floor; under this door is a space of one inch, for passing out the urine of the rabbits. C, are buttons for fastening the doors. D, the backs of the bedrooms, without any passage out on back side.
A, a grated door at the back of the hutch, provides ventilation in summer and is covered with a thin board in winter. B, a flap door, four inches wide, is lifted for cleaning the floor; underneath this door is a space of one inch for the rabbits' urine to pass through. C, are buttons for securing the doors. D, the backs of the bedrooms, with no exit on the back side.
This matter of the rabbitry, and its various explanations, may be considered by the plain, matter-of-fact man, as below the dignity of people pursuing the useful and money-making business of life. Very possible. But many boys—for whose benefit they are chiefly introduced—and men, even, may do worse than to spend their time in such apparent trifles. It is better than going to a horse-race. It is better even than going to a trotting match, where fast men, as well as fast horses congregate. It is better, too, than a thousand other places where boys want to go, when they have nothing to interest them at home.
This issue of rabbit raising, along with its various explanations, might be seen by the straightforward, practical person as beneath the dignity of those engaged in the useful and money-making aspects of life. That’s possible. However, many boys—who are primarily the target audience for this information—and even some men, might find it better to spend their time on such seemingly trivial activities. It’s preferable to attending a horse race. It's even more enjoyable than going to a trotting event, where both fast men and fast horses gather. It’s also better than a thousand other places boys want to go when they have nothing to engage them at home.
One half of the farmer's boys, who, discontented at home, leave it for something more congenial to their feelings and tastes, do so simply because of the excessive dullness, and want of interest in objects to attract them there, and keep them contented. Boys, in 328 America at least, are apt to be smart. So their parents think, at all events; and too smart they prove, to stay at home, and follow the beaten track of their fathers, as their continual migration from the paternal roof too plainly testifies. This, in many cases, is the fault of the parents themselves, because they neglect those little objects of interest to which the minds and tastes of their sons are inclined, and for want of which they imagine more attractive objects abroad, although in the search they often fail in finding them. We are a progressive people. Our children are not always content to be what their fathers are; and parents must yield a little to "the spirit of the age" in which they live. And boys pay too, as they go along, if properly treated. They should be made companions, not servants. Many a joyous, hearty spirit, who, when properly encouraged, comes out a whole man at one-and-twenty, if kept in curb, and harnessed down by a hard parent, leaves the homestead, with a curse and a kick, determined, whether in weal or in woe, never to return. Under a different course of treatment, he would have fixed his home either at his birthplace, or in its immediate vicinity, and in a life of frugality, usefulness, and comparative ease, blessed his parents, his neighborhood, and possibly the world, with a useful example—all, perhaps, grown out of his youthful indulgence in the possession of a rabbit-warren, or some like trifling matter.
Half of the farmer's boys, who are unhappy at home, leave for something that better suits their feelings and preferences. They do this mainly because of the extreme boredom and lack of interesting things to engage them there. Boys, in 328 America at least, tend to be pretty smart. At least that's what their parents think, and they definitely prove to be too smart to stay home and follow the same path as their fathers, as their constant departures from the family home clearly show. Often, this is actually the parents' fault because they overlook the small things that would interest their sons, and because of this lack, the boys think there are more appealing options out there, even though they often fail to find them. We are a progressive people. Our kids don’t always want to be just like their fathers, and parents need to adapt a bit to "the spirit of the age" they live in. And boys pay too, as they go along, if treated properly. They should be seen as companions, not servants. Many a spirited young man, who could thrive at twenty-one when given the right support, ends up leaving home in frustration and anger if held back and constrained by a strict parent, vowing never to return, no matter what. With a different approach, he could have settled down near his birthplace and, in a life of frugality, usefulness, and relative ease, blessed his parents, his community, and possibly the world with a positive example—perhaps all stemming from his youthful enjoyment of having a rabbit-warren or some similar small interest.
This may appear to be small morals, as well as small business. We admit it. But those who have been well, and indulgently, as well as methodically trained, 329 may look back and see the influence which all such little things had upon their early thoughts and inclinations; and thus realize the importance of providing for the amusements and pleasures of children in their early years. The dovecote, the rabbitry, the poultry-yard, the sheep-fold, the calf-pen, the piggery, the young colt of a favorite mare, the yoke of yearling steers, or a fruit tree which they have planted, and nursed, and called it, or the fruit it bears, their own,—anything, in fact, which they can call theirs—are so many objects to bind boys to their homes, and hallow it with a thousand nameless blessings and associations, known only to those who have been its recipients. Heaven's blessings be on the family homestead!
This may seem like small lessons and small things in life. We acknowledge that. But those who have been well brought up, indulged, and systematically trained may look back and see how these little things influenced their early thoughts and feelings. They can appreciate the importance of creating fun and enjoyable experiences for children in their formative years. The dovecote, the rabbit hutch, the chicken coop, the sheep pen, the calf pen, the pigpen, the young colt of a favorite mare, the yoke of yearling steers, or a fruit tree that they have planted and cared for, calling it—or the fruit it produces—their own—anything, really, that they can claim as theirs—serves to connect boys to their homes and bless it with countless unnamed joys and memories, known only to those who have experienced them. May Heaven's blessings be upon the family homestead!
"Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home!"
"Even if it’s simple, there’s no place like home!"
sung the imaginary maid of Milan, the beautiful creation of John Howard Payne, when returning from the glare and pomp of the world, to her native cottage in the mountains of Switzerland. And, although all out of date, and conventionally vulgar this sentiment may be now considered, such is, or should be the subdued, unsophisticated feeling of all natives of the farm house, and the country cottage. We may leave the quiet roof of our childhood; we may mix in the bustling contentions of the open world; we may gain its treasures; we may enjoy its greatness, its honors, and its applause; but there are times when they will all fade into nothing, in comparison with the peace, and quietude, and tranquil happiness of a few acres of land, a comfortable roof, and contentment therewith!
sang the imaginary maid of Milan, the beautiful creation of John Howard Payne, as she returned from the bright lights and showy aspects of the world to her cozy cottage in the Swiss mountains. And even though this sentiment might be seen as outdated and somewhat tacky now, it represents, or should reflect, the humble, genuine feelings of all those who come from farmhouses and country cottages. We may leave behind the peaceful roof of our childhood; we may engage in the busy struggles of the outside world; we may acquire its riches; we may relish its grandeur, its accolades, and its applause; but there are moments when all of that fades into insignificance compared to the peace, tranquility, and simple happiness found in a few acres of land, a comfortable roof, and the contentment that comes with it!
DAIRY BUILDINGS.
Wherever the dairy is made an important branch of farm production, buildings for its distinct accommodation are indispensable. The dairy is as much a manufactory as a cotton mill, and requires as much conveniences in its own peculiar line. We therefore set apart a building, on purpose for its objects; and either for cheese, or butter, separate conveniences are alike required. We commence with the
Wherever dairy production becomes a crucial part of farming, dedicated buildings are essential. The dairy is just as much a factory as a cotton mill and needs similar facilities tailored to its operations. So, we dedicate a building specifically for this purpose; whether for cheese or butter, we similarly need separate facilities. We begin with the
Cheese Dairy House.
This building is one and a half stories high, with a broad, spreading roof of 45° pitch; the ground plan is 10 feet between joists, and the posts 16 feet high. An ice-house, made on the plan already described, is at one end, and a wood-shed at the opposite end, of the same size. This building is supposed to be erected near the milking sheds of the farm, and in contiguity to the feeding troughs of the cows, or the piggery, and adapted to the convenience of feeding the whey to 333 whichever of these animals the dairyman may select, as both, or either are required to consume it; and to which it may be conveyed in spouts from the dairy-room.
This building is one and a half stories tall, with a wide, sloping roof that has a 45° pitch. The floor plan is 10 feet between the joists, and the posts are 16 feet high. There’s an ice house at one end, built according to the previously described design, and a wood shed at the opposite end, both the same size. This building is intended to be located near the milking sheds of the farm, close to the feeding troughs for the cows or the pigpen, and is designed for the easy feeding of whey to whichever animals the dairyman chooses, as both cows and pigs are needed to consume it. The whey can be transported in spouts from the dairy room. 333
GROUND PLAN.
Floor plan.
The Ground Plan was printed upside-down.
The ground plan was printed upside down.
INTERIOR ARRANGEMENT.
The front door is protected by a light porch, (a,) entering by a door, (b,) the main dairy room. The cheese presses, (c, c,) occupy the left end of the room, between which a passage leads through a door, (l,) into the wood-shed, (h,) open on all sides, with its roof resting on four posts set in the ground. The large cheese-table, (d,) stands on the opposite end, and is 3 feet wide. In the center of the room is a chimney, (e,) with a whey and water boiler, and vats on each side. A flight of stairs, (f,) leading into the storage room above, is in the rear. A door, (b,) on the extreme right, leads into the ice-house, (g.) There are four windows to the room—two on each side, front and rear. In the loft are placed the shelves for storing the cheese, as soon as sufficiently prepared on the temporary table below. This loft is thoroughly ventilated by windows, and the heat of the sun upon it ripens the cheese rapidly for market. A trapdoor, through the floors, over which is hung a tackle, admits the cheese from below, or passes it down, when prepared for market.
The front door is sheltered by a small porch, (a,) and leads into the main dairy room through a door, (b,). The cheese presses, (c, c,) are located at the left end of the room, with a passage leading through a door, (l,) into the wood-shed, (h,) which is open on all sides and has its roof supported by four posts in the ground. The large cheese table, (d,) is at the opposite end and is 3 feet wide. In the center of the room is a chimney, (e,) with a whey and water boiler, and vats on either side. A flight of stairs, (f,) at the back, leads up to the storage room above. A door, (b,) on the far right, opens into the ice house, (g.) There are four windows in the room—two on each side, front and back. In the loft, there are shelves for storing the cheese once it's adequately prepared on the temporary table below. This loft is well-ventilated by windows, and the sunlight helps ripen the cheese quickly for sale. A trapdoor in the floor, equipped with a pulley, allows cheese to be lifted from below or passed down when it's ready for market.
The cheese house should, if possible, be placed on a sloping bank, when it is designed to feed the whey to pigs; and even when it is fed to cows, it is more convenient to pass it to them on a lower level, than to 334 carry it out in buckets. It may, however, if on level ground, be discharged into vats, in a cellar below, and pumped out as wanted. A cellar is convenient—indeed, almost indispensable—under the cheese dairy; and water should be so near as to be easily pumped, or drawn, into the vats and kettles used in running up the curd, or for washing the utensils used in the work. When the milk is kept over night, for the next morning's curd, temporary tables may be placed near the ice-room, to hold the pans or tubs in which it may be set, and the ice used to temper the milk to the proper degree for raising the cream. If the dairy be of such extent as to require larger accommodation than the plan here suggested, a room or two may be partitioned off from the main milk and pressing-room, for washing the vessels and other articles employed, and for setting the milk. Every facility should be made for neatness in all the operations connected with the work.
The cheese house should ideally be located on a sloped bank if it’s meant to feed the whey to pigs; even when it’s being given to cows, it’s easier to pass it to them on a lower level than to carry it out in buckets. However, if it’s on level ground, the whey can be directed into vats in a cellar below and pumped out as needed. A cellar is useful—almost essential—under the cheese dairy, and water should be nearby so it can easily be pumped or drawn into the vats and kettles used for processing the curd or for washing the tools. When the milk is stored overnight for the next morning's curd, temporary tables can be set up near the ice room to hold the pans or tubs where the milk is collected, with ice used to cool the milk to the right temperature for raising the cream. If the dairy is large enough to need more space than what’s mentioned here, additional rooms can be partitioned off from the main milk and pressing room for washing the containers and other tools and for setting the milk. Every effort should be made to ensure cleanliness in all operations related to the work.
Different accommodations are required, for making the different kinds of cheese which our varied markets demand, and in the fitting up of the dairy-house, no positive plan of arrangement can be laid down, suited alike to all the work which may be demanded. The dairyman, therefore, will best arrange all these for the particular convenience which he requires. The main plan, and style of building however, we think will be generally approved, as being in an agreeable architectural style, and of convenient construction and shape for the objects intended.
Different setups are needed for producing the various types of cheese that our diverse markets require, and when it comes to designing the dairy house, no exact layout can be established that works for all the tasks that may be needed. Therefore, the dairyman will best organize everything based on the specific needs he has. However, we believe the overall design and style of the building will generally be well-received, as it features a pleasing architectural style and a practical construction and shape for its intended purposes.
THE BUTTER DAIRY.
This, if pursued on the same farm with the cheese dairy, and at different seasons of the year, may be carried on in the lower parts of the same building. But as it is usually a distinct branch of business, when prosecuted as the chief object on a farm, it should have accommodations of its own kind, which should be fitted up specially for that purpose.
This, if done on the same farm as the cheese dairy, and at different times of the year, can be carried out in the lower parts of the same building. However, since it is typically a separate branch of business when operated as the main focus on a farm, it should have its own dedicated facilities, specifically designed for that purpose.
We cannot, perhaps, suggest a better model of a building for the butter dairy, than the one just submitted for the cheese-house, only that there is no necessity for the upper story; and the posts of the main building should not stand more than nine feet above the sills. A good, walled cellar, well lighted, as a room for setting the milk, is indispensable, with a broad, open flight of steps, from the main floor above, into it. Here, too, should stand the stone slabs, where the butter is worked, and the churns, to be driven by hand, or water, or animal power, as the two latter may be provided, and introduced into the building by belt, shaft, or crank. If running water can be brought on 336 to the milk-shelves, from a higher level, which, for this purpose, should have curbs two or three inches high on their sides, it can flow in a constant gentle current over them, among the pans, from a receiving vat, in which ice is deposited, to keep the milk at the proper temperature—about 55° Fahrenheit—for raising the cream; and if the quantity of milk be large, the shelves can be so arranged, by placing each tier of shelf lower than the last, like steps, that the water may pass among them all before it escapes from the room. Such a mode of applying water and ice, renders the entire process of cream-rising almost certain in all weathers, and is highly approved wherever it has been practiced. The low temperature of the room, by the aid of water and ice, is also beneficial to the butter packed in kegs, keeping it cool and sweet—as much like a spring-house as possible, in its operation.
We probably can't suggest a better building design for the butter dairy than the one proposed for the cheese house, except that there’s no need for an upper floor, and the posts of the main building shouldn't rise more than nine feet above the sills. A well-lit, walled cellar is essential for setting the milk, with a wide, open staircase leading down from the main floor above. This is also where the stone slabs for working the butter should be, along with churns that can be powered by hand, water, or animal power, depending on what is available and brought into the building via belt, shaft, or crank. If running water can be directed to the milk shelves from a higher elevation, there should be curbs two or three inches high on their sides, allowing a gentle, constant flow over them and among the pans, coming from a receiving vat that holds ice to maintain the milk at the ideal temperature—around 55° Fahrenheit—for cream rising. If there’s a large amount of milk, the shelves can be arranged so each tier is lower than the last, like steps, enabling the water to flow through all of them before it exits the room. This method of using water and ice makes the cream-rising process reliable in any weather and is highly regarded wherever it has been used. The cool temperature in the room, aided by the water and ice, also helps keep the butter packed in kegs cool and fresh—functioning much like a spring house.
The washing and drying of pans, buckets, churns, and the heating of water, should all be done in the room above, where the necessary kettles are set, and kept from contact with the cool atmosphere of the lower room. The latter apartment should have a well-laid stone or brick floor, filled and covered with a strong cement of water lime, and sloping gradually to the outer side, where all the water may pass off by a drain, and everything kept sweet and clean. The buttermilk may, as in the case of the whey, in the cheese dairy, be passed off in spouts to the pigsty, which should not be far distant.
The washing and drying of pans, buckets, churns, and heating water should all take place in the room above, where the necessary kettles are set up, keeping them away from the cooler atmosphere of the lower room. The lower room should have a well-laid stone or brick floor, filled and covered with a strong cement made from water lime, sloping gradually to the outside to allow all the water to drain away, keeping everything fresh and clean. The buttermilk can be drained off, just like the whey in the cheese dairy, into spouts leading to the pigsty, which should not be too far away.
As all this process of arrangement, however, must conform somewhat to the shape of the ground, the 337 locality, and the facilities at hand where it may be constructed; it is hardly possible to give any one system of detail which is applicable to an uniform mode of structure; and much will be left to the demands and the skill of the dairyman himself, in the plan he may finally adopt.
As all this arranging has to fit the layout of the land, the area, and the resources available for construction, it’s nearly impossible to provide a single system of details that works for a uniform way of building. A lot will depend on the needs and the expertise of the dairyman in the plan he ultimately chooses.
THE WATER RAM.
As water, and that of a good quality, and in abundant quantity, is indispensable to the various demands of the farm, it is worth some pains to provide it in the most economical manner, and at the most convenient points for use. In level grounds, wells are generally dug, and the water drawn up by buckets or pumps. In a hilly country, springs, and streams from higher grounds, may be brought in by the aid of pipes, the water flowing naturally, under its own head, wherever it may be wanted, away from its natural stream.
As good-quality water in sufficient quantity is essential for the various needs of the farm, it's worth the effort to supply it in the most cost-effective way and at the most convenient locations for use. In flat areas, wells are usually dug, and water is brought up using buckets or pumps. In hilly regions, springs and streams from higher ground can be redirected through pipes, allowing the water to flow naturally, using gravity, to where it’s needed, away from its original course.
But, of all contrivances to elevate water from a lower fountain, or current, to a higher level, by its own action, the Water Ram is the most complete in its operation, and perfect in its construction, of anything within our knowledge. And as it may not be generally known to our readers, at our request, Messrs. A. B. Allen & Co., of New York—who keep them of all sizes for sale, at their agricultural warehouse, No's. 338 189 and 191, Water-street—have kindly furnished us with the following description of the machine, given by W. & B. Douglass, of Middletown, Connecticut, manufacturers of the article:
But, among all devices for lifting water from a lower source to a higher level using its own action, the Water Ram is the most efficient in operation and the most perfectly constructed of anything we know. Since this may not be widely known to our readers, at our request, Messrs. A. B. Allen & Co., of New York—who sell them in various sizes at their agricultural warehouse located at Nos. 338 189 and 191, Water Street—have generously provided us with the following description of the machine, as given by W. & B. Douglass, manufacturers from Middletown, Connecticut:
"H, spring or stream. C, pipe that brings water from the stream to the pump. G, discharge pipe that sends water to the house or other needed location. B, D, A, E, I, the pump. J, the base or other support that secures the machine for use.
"The different uses of the ram are clear, such as for irrigating land and providing running water to homes, barns, gardens, factories, villages, engines, railroad stations, etc.
"This machine stands out for its simplicity, effectiveness, and impressive durability, making it the most significant and valuable device developed in hydraulics for moving a portion of a flowing water stream to any height, relative to the fall achieved. It works perfectly even with as little as an eighteen-inch fall; however, the greater the fall, the more powerful the machine operates, allowing the water to be lifted to higher elevations. The relationship between the amount of water raised and that wasted depends entirely on the height of the water source above the ram and the elevation the water needs to reach. The quantity raised varies in proportion to the height it's lifted, given a certain fall; additionally, the distance the water needs to travel and the length of the pipe affect the volume of water raised and discharged by the ram. The longer the pipe the water must travel through, the more friction must be overcome, thus consuming more power. Nevertheless, it is common to use the ram to transport water over distances of one or two hundred rods and to heights of one or two hundred feet. A ten-foot drop from the spring or stream to the ram is more than sufficient to lift water to any height under about one hundred and fifty feet above the ram's location; even with this ten-foot drop, the water can be lifted to even higher points, though in reduced quantities as the height increases. When an adequate volume of water is lifted with a specific fall, it’s not advisable to increase that fall, as doing so raises the force with which the ram operates and significantly increases the workload, leading to greater wear and tear on the machine, thus shortening its lifespan. Therefore, it’s more economical to maintain the ram by using no greater fall than necessary to supply a sufficient amount of water for its intended use. To calculate the necessary fall for raising adequate water supply to their premises, one can safely estimate that over a typical distance of fifty or sixty rods, approximately one-seventh of the water can be lifted and discharged to a height five times greater than the fall applied to the ram, or one-fourteenth can be lifted to a height ten times the fall. For example, with the ram positioned under a five-foot head, for every seven gallons drawn from the spring, one gallon can be raised to twenty-five feet, or half a gallon can be raised to fifty feet. With a ten-foot drop applied to the machine, for every fourteen gallons drawn, one gallon can be lifted to one hundred feet above the machine, maintaining similar proportions as the fall or rise changes.
"It is expected that the illustrations above showing what the machine can do under specific conditions will be enough for practical purposes, allowing buyers of the product to determine with reasonable accuracy the head or fall to apply to the ram for a specific rise and distance, which they may want to use in pumping water from springs or streams to their properties or other locations where water is needed. However, we are pleased to share the following article, which we found in the 'American Agriculturist,' a highly regarded journal published by C. M. Saxton, 152 Fulton Street, New York, that may help support our claims about what our ram can achieve under certain conditions:
"'Here’s an accurate description of a water ram I've been successfully using for the past six months:
"1. The drop from the water's surface in the spring is four feet. 2. The amount of water delivered to my house every ten minutes is three and a quarter gallons, while the water released by the ram is twenty-five gallons. So, almost one-seventh of the water is saved. 3. The vertical height from the delivery point to the ram is nineteen feet—about fifteen feet above the water's surface in the spring. 4. The length of the pipe from the ram to the house is one hundred and ninety feet. 5. The pipe connecting the ram to the house has three right angles, rounded by curves. 6. The ram is a small model made by Douglass. 7. The length of the drive or supply pipe is sixty feet, with an inner diameter of one inch. 8. The water depth in the spring above the drive pipe is six inches. 9. The inner diameter of the pipe that carries water from the ram to the house is three-eighths of an inch.
"I think it's really important for the drive or supply pipe to be installed as straight as possible because the movement of water in this pipe is what gives power to the ram.
V. H. Hallock.
V. H. Hallock.
North-East Center, N.Y., April 2, 1849.
We have seen several of these rams at work; and in any place where the required amount of fall can be had, with sufficient water to supply the demand, we are entirely satisfied that no plan so cheap and efficient can be adopted, by which to throw it to a higher level, and at a distance from the point of its flow. We heartily commend it to all who need a thing of the kind, and have at hand the facilities in the way of a stream for its use.
We’ve observed several of these rams in action, and anywhere there’s enough drop and sufficient water supply, we’re completely convinced that there’s no cheaper or more efficient method to elevate it to a higher level and move it away from its source. We strongly recommend it to anyone who needs something like this and has access to a stream for its use.
It is hardly worth while to add, that by the aid of the ram, water can be thrown into every room in the dwelling house, as well as into the various buildings, and yards, and fields of the farm, wherever it may be required.
It’s hardly worth mentioning that with the help of the ram, water can be pumped into every room of the house, as well as into the different buildings, yards, and fields of the farm, wherever it's needed.
RAT-PROOF GRANARY.
This plan, and description, we take from an agricultural periodical published in New York—"The Plow." We can recommend no plan of a better kind for the objects required. It is an old-fashioned structure, which many of our readers will recognize—only, that it is improved in some of its details.
This plan and description come from an agricultural magazine published in New York—"The Plow." We can’t recommend a better plan for the intended purposes. It’s a classic design that many of our readers will recognize—just with some updates in certain details.
GRANARY.
Grain storage.
The illustration above needs but little description. The posts should be stone, if procurable, one foot square, and four feet long, set one-third in the ground, and capped with smooth flat stones, four to six inches 344 thick, and two feet, at least, across. If wooden posts are used, make them sixteen inches square, and set them in a hole previously filled, six inches deep, with charcoal, or rubble stone and lime grouting, and fill around the posts with the same. Four inches from the top, nail on a flange of tin or sheet iron, six inches wide, the projecting edge of which may be serrated, as a further preventive against the depredating rascals creeping around. The steps are hinged to the door-sill, and should have a cord and weight attached to the door, so that whenever it is shut, the steps should be up also; this would prevent the possibility of carelessness in leaving them down for the rats to walk up. The sides should be made of slats, with large cracks between, and the floor under the corn-crib, with numerous open joints; no matter if shattered corn falls through, let the pigs and chickens have it; the circulation of the air through the pile of corn, will more than pay for all you will lose through the floor. If you intend to have sweet grain, be sure to have a ventilator in the roof, and you may see by the vane on the top of it, how the wind will always blow favorably for you.
The illustration above doesn’t need much explanation. The posts should be stone, if you can find them, one foot square and four feet long, set one-third in the ground and topped with smooth flat stones that are four to six inches thick and at least two feet across. If you’re using wooden posts, make them sixteen inches square and set them in a hole that’s been filled six inches deep with charcoal, rubble stone, and lime grout, then fill around the posts with the same mixture. Four inches from the top, attach a flange of tin or sheet iron that’s six inches wide, with a serrated edge to help keep any pesky critters from getting in. The steps are hinged to the door-sill and should have a cord and weight attached to the door so that whenever it’s closed, the steps automatically lift; this prevents accidentally leaving them down for rats to climb. The sides should be made of slats with wide gaps in between, and the floor under the corn-crib should have multiple open joints; if some crushed corn falls through, let the pigs and chickens clean it up. The airflow through the corn pile is worth more than any corn you lose through the floor. If you plan to store sweet grain, make sure to include a vent in the roof, and you can check the vane on top to see which way the wind is blowing for you.
IMPROVED DOMESTIC ANIMALS.
Having completed the series of subjects which we had designed for this work, we are hardly content to send it out to the public, without inviting the attention of our farmers, and others who dwell in the country and occupy land, to the importance of surrounding themselves with the best breeds of domestic animals, as an item of increased profit in their farm management, and as a subject of interest and satisfaction to themselves in the embellishment of their grounds.
Having finished the range of topics we planned for this work, we’re not entirely satisfied to release it to the public without encouraging our farmers and others living in the countryside who own land to consider the importance of surrounding themselves with the best breeds of livestock. This not only boosts profitability in their farm management but also adds interest and satisfaction to their property’s aesthetic.
We have addressed ourselves through these pages to the good sense of men who, in their general character and pursuits, comprise the most stable class of our population. We have endeavored to impress upon them the importance of providing all the conveniences and comforts to themselves, in their dwellings, as well as the due provision for their animals and crops, in the rougher farm buildings, which their circumstances will admit; and we trust they have been shown that it is proper economy so to do. We have, in addition to these, somewhat dilated upon objects of embellishment, in the way of grounds to surround them, and trees to beautify them, which will in no way interfere with a just economy, and add greatly to the pleasure 346 and interest of their occupation. We now want them to introduce into those grounds such domestic animals as shall add to their ornament, and be far more profitable to themselves, than the inferior things which are called the common, or native stock of the country. Without this last lesson, half our object would be lost. Of what avail will be the best provision for the conveniences of a family, and the labors of the farm, if the farm be badly cultivated, and a worthless or inferior stock be kept upon it? The work is but half done at best; and the inferiority of the last will only become more conspicuous and contemptible, in contrast with the superior condition of the first.
We've addressed ourselves through these pages to the common sense of people who, in their general character and activities, make up the most stable group in our population. We've tried to emphasize the importance of providing all the conveniences and comforts for themselves in their homes, as well as ensuring proper care for their animals and crops in the necessary farm buildings that their situation allows; and we hope we've shown them that it's sensible to do so. In addition to this, we've also discussed ways to enhance their surroundings, like adding landscaping and trees to beautify their properties, which won't interfere with good economy and will greatly increase the enjoyment and interest of their work. We now want them to bring into those grounds domestic animals that will not only enhance their appearance but also be more profitable for them than the inferior breeds commonly found in the area. Without this last message, half our goal would be lost. What good are the best provisions for a family's comfort and farm labor if the farm is poorly managed and filled with worthless or inferior stock? The work is only half complete at best, and the inferiority of the latter will only stand out more against the better conditions of the former. 346
It is not intended to go into an examination of the farm-stock of our country at large, nor into their modes of treatment; but, to recommend such varieties of animals as are profitable in their breeding and keeping, both to the professional farmer in his vocation, and to such as, beyond this, find them an object of convenience, or of pleasure.
It’s not meant to explore the overall livestock of our country or their management methods; instead, it aims to suggest animal breeds that are profitable to raise and maintain, both for professional farmers in their work and for those who find them convenient or enjoyable.
We, in America, are comparatively a young people. Yet, we have surmounted necessity. We have arrived at the period when we enjoy the fruits of competence—some of us, the luxuries of wealth. A taste for superior domestic animals has been increasing, and spreading over the United States for many years past; so that now, a portion of our farmers and country people understand somewhat of the subject. It has been thoroughly demonstrated, that good farm stock is better, and more profitable than poor stock. Still, a taste for good stock, and the advantages of keeping them, over 347 the common stock of the country, is not generally understood; and that taste has to be cultivated. It is not altogether a thing of nature, any more than other faculties which require the aid of education to develope. We have known many people who had a fine perception in many things: an eye for a fine house, pleasant grounds, beautiful trees, and all the surroundings which such a place might command; and when these were complete, would place about it the veriest brutes, in the way of domestic animals, imaginable. The resident of the city, who lives at his country-house in summer, and selects a picture of mean or inferior quality, to hang up in his house by way of ornament, would be laughed at by his friends; yet he may drive into his grounds the meanest possible creature, in the shape of a cow, a pig, or a sheep, and it is all very well—for neither he nor they know any better; yet, the one is quite as much out of place as the other. The man, too, who, in good circumstances, will keep and drive a miserable horse, is the ridicule of his neighbors, because everybody knows what a good horse is, and that he should be well kept. Yet, the other stock on his farm may be the meanest trash in existence, and it creates no remark. On the contrary, one who at any extra cost has supplied himself with stock of the choicer kinds, let their superiority be ever so apparent, has often been the subject of ribaldry, by his unthinking associates. And such, we are sorry to say, is still the case in too many sections of our country. But, on the whole, both our public spirit, and our intelligence, is increasing, in such things.
We, as Americans, are relatively young as a nation. Still, we have overcome basic needs. We've reached a time where many of us enjoy the benefits of skill—some of us even the luxuries of wealth. Interest in high-quality domestic animals has been growing and spreading across the United States for many years now, so that now, some of our farmers and rural folks have a decent understanding of this topic. It's been clearly shown that good farm animals are better and more profitable than poor ones. However, the appreciation for quality stock and its advantages over the common types isn’t widely recognized; this appreciation needs to be fostered. It’s not just an innate thing, just like other abilities that require education to develop. We’ve seen many people who have a great eye for many things: a beautiful house, nice grounds, lovely trees, and everything that comes with a well-kept property; yet, when the setting is complete, they often surround it with the most unrefined domestic animals imaginable. A city dweller who spends summers at their country house, and chooses a poorly made piece of art to hang up as decoration, would be mocked by their friends; yet, they might bring the worst possible cow, pig, or sheep onto their property, and it’s completely acceptable—neither they nor anyone else thinks twice about it; however, both are equally out of place. Similarly, a person in good financial standing who keeps a terrible horse becomes the joke of the neighborhood because everyone recognizes what a good horse looks like and knows it should be well cared for. Yet, the other animals on their farm may consist of the absolute worst stock, and no one says a word about it. On the flip side, someone who has made an extra effort to acquire better-quality stock, even when the difference is obvious, often becomes the target of ridicule from their thoughtless peers. Unfortunately, this issue still exists in too many areas of our country. However, overall, our public spirit and knowledge on these matters are improving.
348 Now, we hold it to be a practical fact, that no farm, or country place, can be complete in its appointments, without good stock upon it; and it is useless for any one to suppose that his farm, or his place, is finished, without it. The man who has a fine lawn, of any extent, about his house, or a park adjoining, should have something to graze it—for he cannot afford to let it lie idle; nor is it worth while, even if he can afford it, to be mowing the grass in it every fortnight during the summer, to make it sightly. Besides this, grass will grow under the trees, and that too thin, and short, for cutting. This ground must, of course, be pastured. Now, will he go and get a parcel of mean scrubs of cattle, or sheep, to graze it, surrounding his very door, and disgracing him by their vulgar, plebeian looks, and yielding him no return, in either milk, beef, mutton, or wool? Of course not, if he be a wise, or a provident man, or one who has any true taste in such matters. He will rather go and obtain the best stock he can get, of breeds suited to the climate, and soil, which will give him a profitable return, either in milk, or flesh, or their increase, for his outlay; and which will also embellish his grounds, and create an interest in his family for their care, and arrest the attention of those who visit him, or pass by his grounds. Of the proper selection of this branch of his stock, we shall now discourse.
348 We believe it's a practical fact that no farm or countryside property can be complete without good livestock. It's pointless for anyone to think their farm or property is finished without it. A person with a beautiful lawn or an adjoining park should have something grazing it—it's not wise to let it go to waste; nor is it practical, even if they can afford it, to mow the grass every couple of weeks during the summer to keep it looking nice. Additionally, grass will grow under trees, but it will be sparse and too short for cutting. This area needs to be pastured. Would he choose to get a bunch of scrappy cattle or sheep to graze right by his door, embarrassing him with their unattractive, common appearance, and providing no return in milk, beef, mutton, or wool? Of course not, if he's a sensible or thoughtful person, or someone with a real appreciation for these things. Instead, he would seek the best livestock suited to the climate and soil, which will provide a profitable return in milk, meat, or their offspring for his investment. This will also enhance his property, engage his family in their care, and catch the attention of guests or passersby. Now, we will discuss the proper selection of this type of livestock.
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In cattle, if your grounds be rich, and your grass abundant, the short-horns are the stock for them. They are "the head and front," in appearance, size, and combination of good qualities—the very aristocracy 353 of all neat cattle. A well-bred, and well developed short-horn cow, full in the qualities which belong to her character, is the very perfection of her kind. Her large, square form; fine orange, russet, or nut-colored muzzle; bright, prominent, yet mild, expressive eye; small, light horn; thin ears; clean neck; projecting brisket; deep, and broad chest; level back, and loin; broad hips; large, and well-spread udder, with its silky covering of hair, and clean, taper, wide-standing teats, giving twenty to thirty quarts of rich milk in a day; deep thigh, and twist; light tail; small, short legs; and, added to this, her brilliant and ever-varying colors of all, and every-intermingling shades of red, and white, or either of them alone; such, singly, or in groups, standing quietly under the shade of trees, grazing in the open field, or quietly resting upon the grass, are the very perfection of a cattle picture, and give a grace and beauty to the grounds which no living thing can equal. Here stands a short-horn cow, in all the majesty of her style and character!
In cattle, if your land is fertile and your grass plentiful, short-horns are the best choice. They are the top choice in terms of appearance, size, and a combination of desirable traits—the very cream of the crop of all neat cattle. A well-bred and well-developed short-horn cow, embodying all the characteristics of her breed, is the perfect example of her kind. Her large, square shape; fine orange, russet, or nut-colored muzzle; bright, prominent yet gentle, expressive eye; small, light horns; thin ears; clean neck; prominent brisket; deep and broad chest; level back and loin; broad hips; a large, well-proportioned udder with silky hair covering and clean, tapered, wide-standing teats, producing twenty to thirty quarts of rich milk a day; deep thighs and twist; light tail; small, short legs; and, on top of all this, her stunning and ever-changing colors, in various shades of red and white, or either color alone; such cows, whether alone or in groups, standing peacefully in the shade of trees, grazing in the open field, or resting on the grass, are the epitome of a cattle picture and bring a grace and beauty to the landscape that no other living thing can match. Here stands a short-horn cow, showcasing all the majesty of her style and character! 353
We add, also, a short-horn bull, which exhibits, in a high degree, the vigor, stamina, and excellence of his kind.
We also add a short-horn bull, which shows a high level of vigor, stamina, and quality of his breed.
Nor, in this laudation of the short-horns, are we at all mistaken. Go into the luxuriant blue-grass pastures of Kentucky; the rich, and wide-spread grazing regions of central, and lower Ohio; the prairies of Indiana, and Illinois, just now beginning to receive them; the sweet, and succulent pastures of central and western New York, or on the Hudson river; and now and then, a finely-cultivated farm in other sections 354 of the United States, where their worth has become established; and they present pictures of thrift, of excellence, of beauty, and of profit, that no other neat cattle can pretend to equal.
Nor are we mistaken in this praise of the short-horns. Visit the lush bluegrass pastures of Kentucky; the rich, expansive grazing areas of central and southern Ohio; the prairies of Indiana and Illinois, which are just starting to welcome them; the sweet, juicy pastures of central and western New York, or along the Hudson River; and occasionally, a well-kept farm in other parts of the United States, where their value is clear. You will see scenes of hard work, quality, beauty, and profit that no other cattle can match. 354
As a family cow, nothing can excel the short-horn, in the abundance and richness of her milk, and in the profit she will yield to her owner; and, on every place where she can be supplied with abundance of food, she stands without a rival. From the short-horns, spring those magnificent fat oxen and steers, which attract so much admiration, and carry off the prizes, at our great cattle shows. Thousands of them, of less or higher grade in blood, are fed every year, in the Scioto, the Miami, and the other great feeding valleys of the west, and in the fertile corn regions of Kentucky, and taken to the New York and Philadelphia markets. As a profitable beast to the grazier, and the feeder, nothing can equal them in early maturity and excellence. For this purpose, the short-horns are steadily working their way all over the vast cattle-breeding regions of the west; and, for the richness and abundance of her milk, the cow is eagerly introduced into the dairy, and milk-producing sections of the other states, where she will finally take rank, and maintain her superiority over all others, on rich and productive soils.
As a family cow, nothing beats the short-horn when it comes to the amount and quality of her milk and the profit she brings to her owner. In any place where she has plenty of food, she has no competition. From the short-horns come those impressive fat oxen and steers that draw so much admiration and win prizes at our major cattle shows. Thousands of them, whether of lower or higher bloodlines, are raised each year in the Scioto, the Miami, and other large feeding valleys in the west, as well as in the fertile corn-growing areas of Kentucky, and are sent to the markets in New York and Philadelphia. In terms of profitability for grazers and feeders, nothing rivals them in terms of early maturity and quality. For this reason, short-horns are steadily spreading across the vast cattle-breeding areas of the west; and due to her rich and plentiful milk, the cow is quickly being introduced into dairy and milk-producing regions in other states, where she will eventually rank and maintain her superiority over all others in rich and productive soils.
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DEVON COW.
Devon cow.
DEVON BULL.
Devon Bull.
On lighter soils, with shorter pastures; or on hilly and stony grounds, another race of cattle may be kept, better adapted to such localities, than those just described. They are the Devons—also an English breed, and claimed there as an aboriginal race in England; 357 and if any variety of cattle, exhibiting the blood-like beauty, and fineness of limb, the deep, uniformity of color, and the gazelle-like brilliancy of their eye, can claim a remote ancestry, and a pure descent, the Devons can make such claim, beyond almost any other. They were introduced—save now and then an isolated animal at an earlier day—into the United States some thirty-two or three years ago, about the same time with the short-horns; and like them, have been added to, and improved by frequent importations since; until now, probably our country will show some specimens equal in quality to their high general character in the land of their nativity. Unlike the short-horn, the Devon is a much lighter animal, with a like fine expression of countenance; an elevated horn; more agile in form; yet finer in limb, and bone; a deep mahogany-red in color; and of a grace, and beauty in figure excelled by no other breed whatever. The Devon cow is usually a good milker, for her size; of quiet temper; docile in her habits; a quick feeder; and a most satisfactory animal in all particulars. From the Devons, spring those beautifully matched red working-oxen, so much admired in our eastern states; the superiors to which, in kindness, docility, endurance, quickness, and honesty of labor, no country can produce. In the quality of their beef, they are unrivaled by any breed of cattle in the United States; but in their early maturity for that purpose, are not equal to the short-horns.
On lighter soils with shorter pastures, or on hilly and rocky land, another breed of cattle is more suitable for those areas than the ones just mentioned. These are the Devons—an English breed that is considered by some to be a native breed in England; 357 and if any breed of cattle can trace its ancestry and pure lineage, it's the Devons, more than almost any other. They were brought to the United States about thirty-two or three years ago, around the same time as the short-horns, with occasional imports before that; and like them, they have been enhanced by frequent importations since then. Now, it's likely that our country has some specimens that are as good in quality as their esteemed counterparts back in England. Unlike the short-horn, the Devon is lighter, with a similarly refined expression; they have longer horns, are more agile in build, have finer limbs and bones, a deep mahogany-red color, and a grace and beauty in their figure that no other breed can surpass. The Devon cow is generally a good milker, considering her size; she has a calm temperament, is gentle in her behavior, feeds quickly, and is a very satisfying animal in every way. From the Devons come those beautifully matched red working oxen, highly regarded in our eastern states; there is no other country that produces animals superior to them in kindness, gentleness, endurance, quickness, and reliability in work. In terms of the quality of their beef, they are unmatched by any breed of cattle in the United States; however, they don't mature as early for that purpose as the short-horns do.
We here present a cut of a Devon cow; but with the remark, that she presents a deficiency of bag, and stands higher on the leg, than she ought to do; and 358 her leanness in flesh gives her a less graceful appearance than is her wont, when in good condition.
We present a photo of a Devon cow, but we want to point out that she has a smaller bag and stands taller on her legs than she should. Also, her lack of flesh makes her look less graceful than usual when she's in good shape. 358
We present, also, the cut of a Devon bull. This figure does not do him full justice, the head being drawn in, to give the cut room on the page.
We also show a diagram of a Devon bull. This illustration doesn't fully capture him, as the head is drawn in to make space for the diagram on the page.
Several beautiful herds of Devons are to be found in New York, in Maryland, in Connecticut, and in Massachusetts; and some few in other states, where they can be obtained by those who wish to purchase. And it is a gratifying incident, to learn that both the breeds we have named are increasing in demand, which has created a corresponding spirit in those who breed them, to bestow their best attention in perfecting their good qualities.
There are several beautiful herds of Devons located in New York, Maryland, Connecticut, and Massachusetts, with a few others in different states available for those looking to buy. It's great to see that both breeds we've mentioned are in increasing demand, motivating breeders to focus on enhancing their best qualities.
Another branch of domestic stock should also excite the attention of those who wish to embellish their grounds, as well as to improve the quality of their mutton—obtaining, withal, a fleece of valuable wool. These are the Southdown, and the Cotswold, Leicester, or other improved breeds of long-wooled sheep. There is no more peaceful, or beautiful small animal to be seen, in an open park, or pleasure ground, or in the paddock of a farm, than these; and as they have been of late much sought after, they will be briefly noticed.
Another type of domestic livestock should also grab the attention of those looking to enhance their property and improve the quality of their mutton, while also getting valuable wool. These include Southdown, Cotswold, Leicester, or other upgraded breeds of long-wooled sheep. There's no more peaceful or beautiful small animal to be seen in an open park, a garden, or on a farm paddock than these; and since they have recently become highly sought after, they'll be briefly discussed.
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SOUTHDOWN RAM.
SOUTHDOWN RAM.
SOUTHDOWN EWE.
Soutdown Sheep.
The Southdown, a cut of which we present, is a fine, compact, and solid sheep, with dark face and legs; quiet in its habits, mild in disposition, of a medium quality, and medium weight of fleece; and yielding a kind of mutton unsurpassed in flavor and delicacy—equal, in the estimation of many, to the finest venison. The carcass of a Southdown wether, when well fatted, 363 is large, weighing, at two to three years old, a hundred to a hundred and twenty pounds. The ewe is a prolific breeder, and a good nurse. They are exceedingly hardy, and will thrive equally well in all climates, and on all our soils, where they can live. There is no other variety of sheep which has been bred to that high degree of perfection, in England. The great Southdown breeder, Mr. Webb, of Batraham, has often received as high as fifty, to one hundred guineas, in a season, for the use of a single ram. Such prices show the estimation in which the best Southdowns are held there, as well as their great popularity among the English farmers. They are extensively kept in the parks, and pleasure grounds of the wealthy people, where things of profit are usually connected with those devoted to luxury.
The Southdown, a breed we’re showcasing, is a strong, compact sheep with a dark face and legs; it’s calm, gentle, of medium quality, and has a medium-weight fleece. It produces mutton that's known for its incredible flavor and tenderness—some even say it rivals the best venison. A well-fatted Southdown wether, at two to three years old, typically weighs between a hundred and a hundred and twenty pounds. The ewe is highly fertile and an excellent nurse. They are very resilient and can thrive in any climate and on various types of soil. No other sheep breed in England has reached such a high standard of excellence. The prominent Southdown breeder, Mr. Webb of Batraham, has often earned between fifty and one hundred guineas in a season for the use of a single ram. These prices reflect the high regard for the best Southdowns and their popularity among English farmers. They are widely raised in the parks and gardens of affluent individuals, where profit often intersects with luxury.
For this cut of the Southdown ewe, we are indebted to the kindness of Luther Tucker, Esq., of the Albany "Cultivator."
For this version of the Southdown ewe, we owe a big thank you to Luther Tucker, Esq., of the Albany "Cultivator."
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LONG-WOOLED RAM.
Long-haired ram.
LONG-WOOLED EWE.
Long-haired ewe.
The Cotswold, New Oxford, and Leicester sheep, of the long-wooled variety, are also highly esteemed, in the same capacity as the Southdowns.
The Cotswold, New Oxford, and Leicester sheep, known for their long wool, are also highly valued, just like the Southdowns.
They are large; not so compactly built as the Southdowns; producing a heavy fleece of long wool, mostly used for combing, and making into worsted stuffs. They are scarcely so hardy, either, as the Southdowns; nor are they so prolific. Still, they have many excellent qualities; and although their mutton has not the fine grain, nor delicacy, of the other, it is of enormous weight, when well fattened, and a most profitable carcass. It has sometimes reached a weight of two 364 hundred pounds, when dressed. They are gentle, and quiet in their habits; white in the face and legs; and show a fine and stately contrast to the Southdowns, in their increased size, and breadth of figure. They require, also, a somewhat richer pasture; but will thrive on any good soil, yielding sweet grasses. For the cut of the Cotswold ewe, we are also indebted to Mr. Tucker, of "The Cultivator."
They are large; not as compactly built as the Southdowns; producing a heavy fleece of long wool, mostly used for combing and making into worsted fabrics. They aren’t as hardy as the Southdowns either; nor are they as prolific. Still, they have many great qualities; and although their meat doesn’t have the fine grain or delicacy of the other breed, it is very heavy when well-fed and makes for a highly profitable carcass. It has sometimes reached a weight of two 364 hundred pounds when dressed. They are gentle and calm by nature; white in the face and legs; and they show a fine and impressive contrast to the Southdowns with their larger size and broader build. They also require somewhat richer pasture; but will thrive on any good soil that produces sweet grasses. For the cut of the Cotswold ewe, we also owe thanks to Mr. Tucker, of "The Cultivator."
To show the contrast between the common native sheep, and the improved breeds, of which we have spoken, a true portrait of the former is inserted, which will be readily recognized as the creature which embellishes, in so high a degree, many of the wild nooks, and rugged farms of the country!
To highlight the difference between the common native sheep and the improved breeds we've mentioned, we've included an accurate depiction of the former, which will easily be recognized as the animal that significantly enhances many of the wild spots and rough farms across the country!
That the keeping of choice breeds of animals, and the cultivation of a high taste for them, is no vulgar 365 matter, with even the most exalted intellects, and of men occupying the most honorable stations in the state, and in society; and that they concern the retired gentleman, as well as the practical farmer, it is only necessary to refer to the many prominent examples in Great Britain, and our own country, within the last fifty years.
That raising quality breeds of animals and fostering a refined appreciation for them is no ordinary 365 matter, even for the most distinguished minds and those in the most respected positions in government and society; and that it concerns both the retired gentleman and the working farmer, we only need to look at the many significant examples in Great Britain and our own country over the past fifty years.
The most distinguished noblemen of England, and Scotland, have long bred the finest of cattle, and embellished their home parks with them. The late Earl Spencer, one of the great patrons of agricultural improvement in England, at his death owned a herd of two hundred of the highest bred short-horns, which he kept on his home farm, at Wiseton. The Dukes of Bedford, for the last century and a half, have made extraordinary exertions to improve their several breeds of cattle. The late Earl of Leicester, better known, perhaps, as Mr. Coke, of Holkham, and the most celebrated farmer of his time, has been long identified with his large and select herds of Devons, and his flocks of Southdowns. The Duke of Richmond has his great park at Goodwood stocked with the finest Southdowns, Short-horns, and Devons. Prince Albert, even, has caught the infection of such liberal and useful example, and the royal park at Windsor is tenanted with the finest farm stock, of many kinds; and he is a constant competitor at the great Smithfield cattle shows, annually held in London. Besides these, hundreds of the nobility, and wealthy country gentlemen of Great Britain, every year compete with the intelligent farmers, in their exhibitions of cattle, at the 366 royal and provincial shows, in England, Scotland, and Ireland.
The most distinguished noblemen of England and Scotland have long raised the finest cattle and adorned their estates with them. The late Earl Spencer, one of the leading advocates for agricultural improvement in England, owned a herd of two hundred top-quality short-horns at his home farm in Wiseton at the time of his death. The Dukes of Bedford have made remarkable efforts over the last century and a half to enhance their various breeds of cattle. The late Earl of Leicester, more commonly known as Mr. Coke of Holkham and the most famous farmer of his era, is well-known for his large and select herds of Devons and flocks of Southdowns. The Duke of Richmond stocks his expansive park at Goodwood with the best Southdowns, Short-horns, and Devons. Even Prince Albert has embraced this noble and beneficial practice, as the royal park at Windsor is home to some of the finest farm livestock of various kinds, and he regularly competes at the major Smithfield cattle shows held annually in London. In addition, hundreds of nobles and wealthy landowners in Great Britain compete every year with knowledgeable farmers in cattle exhibitions at the 366 royal and regional shows in England, Scotland, and Ireland.
In the United States, Washington was a great promoter of improvement in farm stock, and introduced on to his broad estate, at Mount Vernon, many foreign animals, which he had sent out to him at great expense; and it was his pride to show his numerous and distinguished guests, his horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs. Henry Clay, of Kentucky, was among the first promoters of the improvement of domestic animals in the fertile region, of which his own favorite Ashland is the center; and to his continued efforts in the breeding of the finest short-horns, and mules, is the state of Kentucky greatly indebted for its reputation in these descriptions of stock. Daniel Webster has introduced on to his estate, at Marshfield, the finest cattle, and sheep suited to its soil and climate, and takes much pride in showing their good qualities. Indeed, we have never heard either of these two last remarkable men more eloquent, than when discoursing of their cattle, and of their pleasure in ranging over their pastures, and examining their herds and flocks. They have both been importers of stock, and liberal in their dissemination among their agricultural friends and neighbors. Public-spirited, patriotic men, in almost every one of our states, have either imported from Europe, or drawn from a distance in their own country, choice animals, to stock their own estates, and bred them for the improvement of their several neighborhoods. Merchants, and generous men of other professions, have shown great liberality, and the finest 367 taste, in importing, rearing, and distributing over the country the best breeds of horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs. Their own beautiful home grounds are embellished with them, in a style that all the dumb statuary in existence can not equal in interest—models of grace, and beauty, and utility, which are in vain sought among the sculpture, or paintings of ancient time. And many a plain and unpretending farmer of our country, emulating such laudable examples, now shows in his luxuriant pastures, and well-filled barns and stables, the choicest specimens of imported stock; and their prizes, won at the cattle shows, are the laudable pride of themselves, and their families.
In the United States, Washington was a strong advocate for improving livestock and brought many foreign animals to his large estate at Mount Vernon, which he imported at great cost. He took pride in showcasing his horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs to his many distinguished guests. Henry Clay from Kentucky was one of the first to promote better domestic animals in the fertile area centered around his beloved Ashland. Kentucky is greatly indebted to his ongoing efforts in breeding top-quality short-horn cattle and mules, which contributed to the state's reputation in these breeds. Daniel Webster also introduced the best cattle and sheep suited for the soil and climate of his estate in Marshfield and takes great pride in displaying their qualities. Indeed, we've never heard either of these two remarkable men speak more passionately than when discussing their livestock and their enjoyment of walking through their pastures and examining their herds and flocks. Both have imported animals and generously shared them with their agricultural friends and neighbors. Public-spirited and patriotic individuals in nearly every state have either imported animals from Europe or sourced them from far away in their own country to stock their estates, breeding them to improve their local communities. Businesspeople and generous individuals from other professions have shown great generosity and taste in importing, raising, and distributing the best breeds of horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs across the country. Their beautiful home properties are adorned with these animals in a way that surpasses any art from sculptures or paintings of ancient times, showcasing grace, beauty, and utility that is hard to find among historical art. Many plain and humble farmers in our country, inspired by such commendable examples, now display the finest specimens of imported livestock in their lush pastures and well-stocked barns and stables, with the awards they win at cattle shows being a source of pride for themselves and their families.
Nor is this laudable taste, confined to men alone. Females of the highest worth, and domestic example, both abroad and at home, cultivate a love for such objects, and take much interest in the welfare of their farm stock. We were at the annual state cattle show, in one of our large states, but a short time since, and in loitering about the cattle quarter of the grounds, met a lady of our acquaintance, with a party of her female friends, on a tour of inspection among the beautiful short-horns, and Devons, and the select varieties of sheep. She was the daughter of a distinguished statesman, who was also a large farmer, and a patron of great liberality, in the promotion of fine stock in his own state. She was bred upon the farm, and, to rare accomplishments in education, was possessed of a deep love for all rural objects; and in the stock of the farm she took a peculiar interest. Her husband was an extensive farmer, and a noted breeder of fine animals. 368 She had her own farm, too, and cattle upon it, equally as choice as his, in her own right; and they were both competitors at the annual exhibitions. Introduced to her friends, at her request, we accompanied them in their round of inspection. There were the beautiful cows, and the younger cattle, and the sheep—all noticed, criticised, and remarked upon; and with a judgment, too, in their various properties, which convinced us of her sound knowledge of their physiology, and good qualities, which she explained to her associates with all the familiarity that she would a tambouring frame, or a piece of embroidery. There was no squeamish fastidiousness; no affectation of prudery, in this; but all natural as the pure flow of admiration in a well-bred lady could be. At her most comfortable, and hospitable residence, afterward, she showed us, with pride, the several cups, and other articles of plate, which her family had won as prizes, at the agricultural exhibitions; and which she intended to preserve, as heir-looms to her children. This is not a solitary example; yet, a too rare one, among our fair countrywomen. Such a spirit is contagious, and we witness with real satisfaction, their growing taste in such laudable sources of enjoyment: contrary to the parvenue affectation of a vast many otherwise sensible and accomplished females of our cities and towns—comprising even the wives and daughters of farmers, too—who can saunter among the not over select, and equivocal representations, among the paintings and statuary of our public galleries; and descant with entire freedom, on the various attitudes, and artistical 369 merits of the works before them; or gaze with apparent admiration upon the brazen pirouettes of a public dancing girl, amid all the equivoque of a crowded theater; and yet, whose delicacy is shocked at the exhibitions of a cattle show! Such females as we have noticed, can admire the living, moving beauty of animal life, with the natural and easy grace of purity itself, and without the slightest suspicion of a stain of vulgarity. From the bottom of our heart, we trust that a reformation is at work among our American women, in the promotion of a taste, and not only a taste, but a genuine love of things connected with country life. It was not so, with the mothers, and the wives, of the stern and earnest men, who laid the foundations of their country's freedom and greatness. They were women of soul, character, and stamina; who grappled with the realities of life, in their labors; and enjoyed its pleasures with truth and honesty. This over-nice, mincing delicacy, and sentimentality, in which their grand-daughters indulge, is but the off-throw of the boarding-school, the novelist, and the prude—mere "leather and prunella." Such remarks may be thought to lie beyond the line of our immediate labor. But in the discussion of the collateral subjects which have a bearing upon country life and residence, we incline to make a clean breast of it, and drop such incidental remark as may tend to promote the enjoyment, as well as instruction, of those whose sphere of action, and whose choice in life is amid the pure atmosphere, and the pure pleasures of the country.
This admirable taste isn’t limited to men alone. Women of the highest quality and strong family backgrounds, both locally and abroad, also foster a love for these things and show great interest in the well-being of their livestock. Recently, we attended the annual state cattle show in one of our larger states. While wandering around the cattle section, we ran into a lady we knew, along with some of her female friends, who were inspecting the beautiful short-horns, Devons, and select varieties of sheep. She was the daughter of a prominent statesman who was also a large farmer and generously supported the promotion of quality livestock in his state. She grew up on the farm and, in addition to her educational accomplishments, had a deep passion for all things rural, especially the farm animals. Her husband was also a large-scale farmer and a well-known breeder of excellent animals. She owned her own farm with equally fine cattle, and they both participated in the annual exhibitions. At her request, we joined her and her friends on their tour of inspection. They observed the beautiful cows, younger cattle, and sheep—all noted, critiqued, and discussed with a level of expertise that impressed us with her strong knowledge of their biology and qualities, which she explained to her friends just as casually as she would discuss a tambouring frame or embroidery. There was no false modesty or pretentiousness here; it felt as natural as the genuine admiration one would expect from a well-bred woman. Later, at her comfortable and welcoming home, she proudly showed us the various cups and silverware her family had won as prizes at agricultural exhibitions, which she planned to keep as heirlooms for her children. This is not an isolated case, but unfortunately, it’s a bit rare among our countrywomen. Such spirit is infectious, and it’s truly satisfying to see their growing appreciation for these admirable sources of enjoyment, unlike the superficial pretentiousness often found among many otherwise sensible and accomplished women in our cities and towns—including the wives and daughters of farmers—who can leisurely stroll through less than impressive artworks in public galleries and freely discuss their various poses and artistic merits or gaze with apparent admiration at the daring performances of public dancers in crowded theaters, but whose sensibilities are shocked by a cattle show! The women we've noticed can appreciate the vibrant beauty of living animals with the natural and effortless grace of pure enjoyment, without the slightest indication of any vulgarity. From the bottom of our hearts, we hope that a transformation is happening among American women, fostering not just an appreciation but a genuine love for the aspects of country life. This wasn’t the case with the mothers and wives of the determined men who established their country’s freedom and strength. They were women of substance, character, and resilience; they faced the realities of life with diligence and enjoyed its pleasures with honesty and sincerity. This overly delicate and sentimental behavior exhibited by their granddaughters is merely a product of boarding schools, novelists, and prudes—just "leather and prunella." Such remarks may seem outside our immediate focus, but in discussing related topics relevant to country life, we feel inclined to express ourselves openly and share incidental comments that may enhance the enjoyment and understanding of those whose lives and choices are centered in the wholesome atmosphere and pleasures of the countryside.
WATER-FOWLS.
If a stream flow through the grounds, in the vicinity of the house; or a pond, or a small lake be near, a few varieties of choice water-fowls may be kept, adding much to the interest and amusement of the family. Many of the English nobility, and gentry, keep swans for such purpose. They are esteemed a bird of much grace and beauty, although silent, and of shy, unsocial habits, and not prolific in the production of their young. For such purposes as they are kept in England, the great African goose, resembling the China, but nearly double in size, is a preferable substitute in this country. It is a more beautiful bird in its plumage; equally graceful in the water; social, and gentle in its habits; breeding with facility, and agreeable in its voice, particularly at a little distance. The African goose will attain a weight of twenty to twenty-five pounds. Its body is finely formed, heavily feathered, and its flesh is of delicate flavor. The top of the head, and the back of its neck, which is long, high, and beautifully arched, is a dark brown; its bill black, with a high protuberance, or knob, at its junction with the head; a 371 dark hazel eye, with a golden ring around it; the under part of the head and neck, a soft ash-color; and a heavy dewlap at the throat. Its legs and feet are orange-colored; and its belly white. Taken altogether, a noble and majestic bird.
If there's a stream flowing through the property near the house, or a pond or small lake nearby, a few types of waterfowl can be kept, which will greatly enhance the family's enjoyment and interest. Many in the English nobility and gentry keep swans for this reason. They are considered a bird of great elegance and beauty, although they are quiet, somewhat shy, and not very social, plus they don’t produce many young. For purposes similar to how they are kept in England, the great African goose, similar to the China goose but almost twice the size, is a better option in this country. It has more beautiful plumage, is equally graceful in the water, social and gentle by nature, breeds easily, and has a pleasant voice, especially from a distance. The African goose can weigh between twenty to twenty-five pounds. It has a well-proportioned body, thick feathering, and its meat has a delicate flavor. The top of its head and the back of its long, beautifully arched neck are dark brown; its bill is black with a high bump or knob where it joins the head; it has dark hazel eyes with a golden ring around them; the underside of the head and neck is a soft ash color, and it has a prominent dewlap at the throat. Its legs and feet are orange, and its belly is white. Overall, it’s a noble and majestic bird.
The small brown China goose is another variety which may be introduced. She is nearly the color of the African, but darker; has the same black bill, and high protuberance on it, but without the dewlap under the throat; and has black legs and feet. She is only half the size of the other; is a more prolific layer,—frequently laying three or four clutches of eggs in a year; has the same character of voice; an equally high, arched neck, and is quite as graceful in the water. The neck of the goose in the cut should be one-third longer, to be an accurate likeness.
The small brown China goose is another type that can be introduced. She's about the same color as the African one, but darker; has the same black bill and prominent bump on it, but without the dewlap under her throat; and has black legs and feet. She's only half the size of the other one; is a more prolific layer, often laying three or four batches of eggs in a year; has the same vocal characteristics; an equally high, arched neck, and is just as graceful in the water. The neck of the goose in the image should be a third longer to be an accurate representation.
372 The White China is another variety, in size and shape like the last, but perfectly white, with an orange colored bill and legs. Indeed, no swan can be more beautiful than this, which is of the same pure, clean plumage, and, in its habits and docility, equally a favorite with the others we have described.
372 The White China is another type that is similar in size and shape to the previous one, but it's completely white, with an orange bill and legs. Truly, no swan is more beautiful than this one, boasting the same pure, clean feathers and, in its behavior and friendliness, it's just as loved as the others we've mentioned.
The Bremen goose is still another variety, of about the same size as the African, but in shape and appearance, not unlike the common goose, except in color, which is pure white. Young geese of this breed, at nine months old, frequently weigh twenty pounds, alive. We have had them of that weight, and for the table, none can be finer. They are equally prolific as the common goose, but, as a thing of ornament, are far behind the African and the China. Still, they are a stately bird, and an acquisition to any grounds where water-fowls are a subject of interest, convenience, or profit.
The Bremen goose is yet another type, about the same size as the African one, but in shape and look, it's similar to the common goose, except for its color, which is pure white. Young geese of this breed, at nine months old, often weigh twenty pounds when alive. We've had them reach that weight, and for the table, none can be better. They are just as prolific as the common goose, but as ornamental birds, they fall short compared to the African and the Chinese varieties. Still, they are an impressive bird and a great addition to any area where waterfowl are of interest, convenience, or profit.
All these birds are more domestic, if possible, than the common goose, and we have found them less troublesome, not inclined to wander abroad, and, in all the qualities of such a bird, far more agreeable. We have long kept them, and without their presence, should consider our grounds as incomplete, in one of the most attractive features of animated life.
All these birds are even more domesticated than the common goose, and we have found them to be less of a hassle. They don’t tend to wander off, and in every way that matters for a bird like this, they are much more pleasant. We have kept them for a long time, and without them, we’d see our grounds as lacking one of the most appealing aspects of lively nature.
It is too much a fault of our farming population, that they do not pay sufficient attention to many little things which would render their homes more interesting, both to themselves, if they would only think so, and to their families, most certainly. If parents have no taste for such objects as we have recommended, or even 373 others more common, they should encourage their children in the love of them, and furnish them for their amusement. The very soul of a farmer's home is to cluster every thing about it which shall make it attractive, and speak out the character of the country, and of his occupation, in its full extent. Herds and flocks upon the farm are a matter of course; and so are the horses, and the pigs. But there are other things, quite as indicative of household abundance, and domestic enjoyment. The pigeons, and the poultry of all kinds, and perhaps the rabbit warren, which are chiefly in charge of the good housewife, and her daughters, and the younger boys, show out the domestic feeling and benevolence of character in the family, not to be mistaken. It is a sign of enjoyment, of domestic contentment, and of mental cultivation, even, that will lead to something higher, and more valuable in after life; and it is in such light that it becomes an absolute duty of the farmer who seeks the improvement and education of his children, to provide them with all these little objects, to engage their leisure hours and promote their happiness. How different a home like this from one—which is, really, not a home—where no attention is paid to such minor attractions; where a few starveling things, by way of geese, perhaps, picked half a dozen times a year, to within an inch of their lives, mope about the dirty premises, making their nightly sittings in the door yard, if the house has one; a stray turkey, or two, running, from fear of the untutored dogs, into the nearest wood, in the spring, to make their rude nests, and bring out half a clutch of young, 374 and creeping about the fields through the summer with a chicken or two, which the foxes, or other vermin, have spared, and then dogged down in the winter, to provide a half got-up Christmas-dinner; and the hens about the open buildings all the year, committing their nuisances in every possible way! There need be no surer indication than this, of the utter hopelessness of progress for good, in such a family.
It's really a flaw in our farming community that they don't pay enough attention to the small things that could make their homes more enjoyable, both for themselves, if they just thought about it, and definitely for their families. If parents lack an appreciation for the kinds of things we've suggested, or even more common ones, they should encourage their kids to love them and provide them for fun. The heart of a farmer's home should be to include everything that makes it appealing and reflects the character of the area and his work as a whole. Having herds and flocks on the farm is expected; so are horses and pigs. But there are other things that also signify plenty at home and enjoyment. Pigeons, all kinds of poultry, and maybe even a rabbit warren, mainly taken care of by the good housewife, her daughters, and younger boys, show the family's warmth and kindness. It’s a sign of happiness, contentment at home, and even mental growth that can lead to something greater and more valuable later in life; and it's in this context that it becomes an absolute duty for the farmer who wants to improve and educate his children to provide them with these little things to fill their free time and boost their happiness. How different is a home like this from one that’s really not a home at all—where no attention is given to such minor pleasures; where a few struggling creatures, possibly geese, maybe picked at a few times a year, linger around the dirty property, making their nightly perches in the yard, if there is one; a stray turkey or two, fleeing from the wild dogs into the nearest woods in the spring to nest rudely and produce a few chicks, only to roam the fields in summer with a couple of survivors spared from the foxes or other pests, and then end up slaughtered in winter to throw together a half-assed Christmas dinner; and hens wandering around the open buildings all year, making a mess in every way possible! There couldn't be a clearer sign of the complete lack of hope for improvement in such a family.
A WORD ABOUT DOGS.
We always loved a dog; and it almost broke our little heart, when but a trudging schoolboy, in our first jacket-and-trowsers, our kind mother made us take back the young puppy that had hardly got its eyes open, which we one day brought home, to be kept until it was fit to be taken from its natural nurse. We are now among the boys, John, Tom, and Harry; and intend to give them the benefit of our own experience in this line, as well as to say a few words to the elder brothers,—and fathers, even,—if they do not turn up their noses in contempt of our instruction, on a subject so much beneath their notice.
We’ve always loved dogs, and it nearly broke our hearts when, as a trudging schoolboy in our first jacket and pants, our kind mother made us return the young puppy that had hardly opened its eyes. We had brought it home to keep until it was old enough to be weaned from its mother. Now we’re among the boys, John, Tom, and Harry; and we plan to share our own experiences with them, as well as to say a few words to the older brothers—and even fathers—if they don’t scoff at our advice on a topic they think is too trivial.
We say that we love dogs: not all dogs, however. But we love some dogs—of the right breeds. There 375 is probably no other civilized country so dog-ridden as this, both in
We say we love dogs: not all dogs, though. But we do love some dogs—specifically the right breeds. There is probably no other civilized country as full of dogs as this one, both in
"Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound,
And curs of low degree."
"Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound,
And mutts of low degree."
Goldsmith, kind man that he was, must have been a capital judge of dogs, like many other poetical gentlemen. Still, other men than poets are sometimes good judges, and great lovers of dogs; but the mass of people are quite as well satisfied with one kind of dog as with another, so that it be a dog; and they too often indulge in their companionship, much to the annoyance of good neighborhood, good morals, and, indeed, of propriety, thrift, and common justice. Of all these we have nothing to say—here, at least. Ours is a "free country"—for dogs, if for nothing else. Nor shall we discuss the various qualities, or the different breeds of dogs for sporting purposes. We never go out shooting; nor do we take a hunt—having no taste that way. Perhaps in this we are to be pitied; but we are content as it is. Therefore we shall let the hounds, and pointers, and setters, the springers, and the land and the water spaniels, all alone. The mastiffs, and the bull dogs, too, we shall leave to those who like them. The poodle, and the little lap-dog of other kinds, also, we shall turn over to the kindness of those who—we are sorry for them, in having nothing better to interest themselves about—take a pleasure in keeping and tending them.
Goldsmith, being a kind man, must have been a great judge of dogs, like many other poetic types. However, other people besides poets can also be good judges and big dog lovers; but most folks are just as happy with one type of dog as another, as long as it's a dog. They often indulge in their company, which can be quite annoying for good neighbors, good morals, and, really, propriety, thrift, and common sense. We won’t discuss any of that here. This is a "free country"—for dogs, if nothing else. We also won’t talk about the various traits or different breeds of dogs for hunting. We never go out shooting, nor do we go hunting—it's just not our thing. Maybe we should be pitied for that, but we’re content as we are. So, we’ll leave the hounds, pointers, setters, springers, and both land and water spaniels alone. The mastiffs and bulldogs too, we’ll leave to those who enjoy them. The poodles and little lap dogs of other kinds will also be handed over to those who—we feel sorry for them, having nothing better to engage with—take pleasure in keeping and caring for them.
We want to mix in a little usefulness, as well as amusement, in the way of a dog; and after a whole life, thus far, of dog companionship, and the trial of 376 pretty much every thing in the line of a dog—from the great Newfoundland, of a hundred pounds weight, down to the squeaking little whiffet, of six—we have, for many years past, settled down into the practical belief that the small ratting terrier is the only one, except the shepherd dog, we care to keep; and of these, chiefly, we shall speak.
We want to mix in a bit of usefulness, along with some fun, like a dog; and after a whole life so far full of dog companionship and trying out just about every type of dog—from the huge Newfoundland weighing a hundred pounds to the tiny squeaky whiffet weighing six—we’ve, for many years now, come to the practical belief that the small ratting terrier is the only one, besides the shepherd dog, that we actually want to keep; and we’ll mainly focus on these.
There are many varieties of the Terrier. Some are large, weighing forty or fifty pounds, rough-haired, and savage looking. There is the bull-terrier, of less size, not a kindly, well-disposed creature to strangers; but irascibly inclined, and unamiable in his deportment; still useful as a watch-dog, and a determined enemy to all vermin, whatever. Then, again, are the small rat-terriers, as they are termed, weighing from a dozen to twenty pounds; some with rough, long, wiry hair; a fierce, whiskered muzzle; of prodigious strength for their size; wonderful instinct and sagacity; kind in temper; and possessing valuable qualities, bating a lack of beauty in appearance. They are of all colors, but are generally uniform in their color, whatever it be. Another kind, still, is the smooth terrier, of the same sizes as the last; a very pretty dog indeed; with a kinder disposition to mankind; yet equally destructive to vermin, and watchful to the premises which they inhabit, or of whatever else is put under their charge. The fidelity of the terrier to his master is wonderful; equal, if not superior to any other dog whatever. In courage and perseverance, in hardihood, and feats of daring, he has hardly an equal; and in general usefulness, no dog can compare with him.
There are many types of Terriers. Some are large, weighing around forty to fifty pounds, with rough fur and a fierce appearance. There's the bull-terrier, which is smaller and not friendly or well-disposed towards strangers; instead, it tends to be irritable and unfriendly. However, it's still useful as a watch dog and a determined foe to all pests. Then there are the small rat-terriers, which weigh between twelve to twenty pounds; some have rough, long, wiry hair and a fierce, whiskered face. They are incredibly strong for their size, have great instincts and intelligence, and are kind in temperament, though they lack beauty. They come in all colors but usually have a consistent color, whatever that may be. Another variety is the smooth terrier, about the same size as the previous ones; they're really pretty dogs with a nicer attitude towards people, yet they're equally fierce against pests and vigilant over their territory or anything else they’re responsible for. The loyalty of a terrier to its owner is remarkable; it's as strong, if not stronger, than that of any other dog. In terms of courage, determination, toughness, and daring acts, they are nearly unmatched, and in overall usefulness, no dog can compare to them.
THE SMOOTH TERRIER.
THE SMOOTH TERRIER.
Sir Walter Scott, who was a great friend to dogs, as well as a nice and critical judge of their qualities, used to tell this story:—When a young man, first attending, as an advocate, the Jedburgh assizes, a notorious burglar engaged Sir Walter to defend him on his trial for housebreaking in the neighborhood. The case was a hard one; the proof direct and conclusive; and no ingenuity of the defence could avoid the conviction of the culprit. The matter was settled beyond redemption; and before he left for his imprisonment, or transportation, the thief requested Sir Walter to come into his cell. On meeting, the fellow frankly told his counsel that he felt very grateful to him for his efforts to clear him; that he had done the best he could; but the proof was too palpable against him. He would gladly reward Sir Walter for his services; but he had 378 no money, and could only give him a piece of advice, which might, perhaps, be serviceable hereafter. Sir Walter heard him, no doubt, with some regret at losing his fee; but concluding to hear what he had to say. "You are a housekeeper, Mr. Scott. For security to your doors, use nothing but a common lock—if rusty and old, no matter; they are quite as hard to pick as any others. (Neither Chubbs' nor Hobbs' non-pickable locks were then invented.) Then provide yourself with a small rat terrier, and keep him in your house at night. There is no safety in a mastiff, or bull-dog, or in a large dog of any breed. They can always be appeased and quieted, and burglars understand them; but a terrier can neither be terrified nor silenced; nor do we attempt to break in where one is known to be kept." Sir Walter heeded the advice, and, in his housekeeping experience, afterward, confirmed the good qualities of the terrier, as related to him by the burglar. He also commemorated the conversation by the following not exceedingly poetical couplet:
Sir Walter Scott, who loved dogs and was a keen judge of their abilities, used to share this story:—When a young man first attended the Jedburgh assizes as a lawyer, a well-known burglar hired Sir Walter to defend him in a trial for breaking into homes in the area. The case was tough; the evidence was clear and undeniable, and no clever defense could prevent the criminal from being found guilty. The situation was hopeless, and before he was taken away to prison or transported, the thief asked Sir Walter to come into his cell. Upon meeting, the man openly told his lawyer that he was very thankful for his efforts to help him; he acknowledged that Sir Walter had done his best, but the evidence against him was too overwhelming. He wanted to reward Sir Walter for his help, but he had no money and could only offer him a piece of advice that might be useful in the future. Sir Walter, despite feeling disappointed about losing his fee, decided to listen to what he had to say. "You own a house, Mr. Scott. For securing your doors, use nothing but an ordinary lock—if it's rusty and old, it doesn't matter; they're just as hard to pick as any others. (Neither Chubbs' nor Hobbs' non-pickable locks had been invented at that time.) Then get yourself a small rat terrier and keep it in your house at night. There's no safety in a mastiff, bull-dog, or any large dog. They can always be calmed down, and burglars know how to handle them; but a terrier can't be frightened or silenced, and we won't try to break in where there's one known to be kept." Sir Walter took the advice to heart, and in his subsequent experience as a homeowner, he confirmed the terrier's good qualities as described by the burglar. He also marked the conversation with a somewhat unpoetic couplet:
"A terrier dog and a rusty key,
Was Walter Scott's first Jedburgh fee."
"A terrier dog and a rusty key,
Was Walter Scott's first Jedburgh payment."
The terrier has a perfect, thorough, unappeasable instinct for, and hatred to all kinds of vermin. He takes to rats and mice as naturally as a cat. He will scent out their haunts and burrows. He will lie for hours by their places of passage, and point them with the sagacity of a pointer at a bird. He is as quick as lightning, in pouncing upon them, when in sight, and rarely misses them when he springs. A single bite 379 settles the matter; and where there are several rats found together, a dog will frequently dispatch half a dozen of them, before they can get twenty feet from him. A dog of our own has killed that number, before they could get across the stable floor. In the grain field, with the harvesters, a terrier will catch hundreds of field-mice in a day; or, in the hay field, he is equally destructive. With a woodchuck, a raccoon, or anything of their size—even a skunk, which many dogs avoid—he engages, with the same readiness that he will a rat. The night is no bar to his vigils. He has the sight of an owl, in the dark. Minks, and weasels, are his aversion, as much as other vermin. He will follow the first into the water, till he exhausts him with diving, and overtakes him in swimming. He is a hunter, too. He will tree a squirrel, or a raccoon, as readily as the best of sporting dogs. He will catch, and hold a pig, or anything not too large or heavy for him. He will lie down on your garment, and watch it for hours; or by anything else left in his charge. He will play with the children, and share their sports as joyfully as a dumb creature can do; and nothing can be more affectionate, kind, and gentle among them. He is cleanly, honest, and seldom addicted to tricks of any kind.
The terrier has an instinctive, relentless dislike for all kinds of pests. He goes after rats and mice as naturally as a cat would. He can track down their nests and burrows with ease. He’ll wait for hours by their paths, pointing them out with as much skill as a pointer does with birds. He’s incredibly quick when he spots them, rarely missing his target when he leaps. A single bite is all it takes to finish the job; when multiple rats are together, a dog can often take out half a dozen of them before they’ve gone twenty feet. Our dog has done just that, taking them down before they could even reach the other side of the stable floor. In the grain field, while the harvesters work, a terrier can catch hundreds of field mice in a single day; he’s just as effective in the hay field. When it comes to woodchucks, raccoons, or any similarly-sized creature—even skunks, which many dogs shy away from—he tackles them without hesitation, just like he'd handle a rat. The night doesn’t stop him either; he has eyesight just like an owl in the dark. He has a strong aversion to minks and weasels as well. He’ll chase the first into the water until it tires out from diving, then catch up to it while swimming. He’s also a hunter; he’ll tree a squirrel or a raccoon just as well as the best sporting dogs. He can catch and hold onto a pig or anything that isn’t too big or heavy for him. He’ll calmly lie on your clothing and watch over it for hours, or keep an eye on anything else you leave in his care. He plays with the kids and joins in their fun as happily as a non-speaking creature can, and there’s nothing more affectionate, kind, or gentle with them. He is clean, honest, and rarely indulges in tricks of any kind.
We prefer the high-bred, smooth, English terrier, to any other variety. They are rather more gentle in temper, and very much handsomer in appearance, than the rough-haired kind; but perhaps no better in their useful qualities. We have kept them for years; we keep them now; and no reasonable inducement would 380 let us part with them. A year or two ago, having accidentally lost our farm terrier, and nothing remaining on the place but our shepherd dog, the buildings soon swarmed with rats. They were in, and about everything. During the winter, the men who tended the horses, and cattle, at their nightly rounds of inspection, before going to bed, would kill, with their clubs, three or four, in the barns and stables, every evening. But still the rats increased, and they became unendurable. They got into the grain-mows, where they burrowed, and brought forth with a fecundity second only to the frogs of Egypt. They gnawed into the granaries. They dug into the dairy. They entered the meat barrels. They carried off the eggs from the hen-nests. They stole away, and devoured, the young ducks, and chickens. They literally came into the "kneading troughs" of the kitchen. Oh! the rats were intolerable! Traps were no use. Arsenic was innocuous—they wouldn't touch it. Opportunity favored us, and we got two high-bred, smooth, English terriers—a dog, and a slut. Then commenced such a slaughter as we seldom see. The rats had got bold. The dogs caught them daily by dozens, as they came out from their haunts, fearless of evil, as before. As they grew more shy, their holes were watched, and every morning dead rats were found about the premises. The dogs, during the day, pointed out their holes. Planks were removed, nests were found, and the rats, young and old, killed, instanter. Hundreds on hundreds were slaughtered, in the first few weeks; and in a short time, the place was mostly rid of them, 381 until enough only are left to keep the dogs "in play," and to show that in spite of all precaution, they will harbor wherever there is a thing to eat, and a possible place of covert for them to burrow.
We prefer the refined, sleek English terrier over any other type. They are generally gentler in temperament and much better looking than the rough-haired kind; however, they might not be any more useful. We've had them for years; we still do; and no reasonable offer would make us part with them. A year or two ago, we accidentally lost our farm terrier, leaving only our shepherd dog, and soon the buildings were overrun with rats. They got into everything. During the winter, the people who took care of the horses and cattle would often kill three or four rats in the barns and stables every evening with their clubs. But still, the rat population grew, and they became unbearable. They burrowed into the grain-store, breeding as prolifically as the frogs of Egypt. They gnawed into the granaries, dug into the dairy, broke into the meat barrels, stole eggs from the nests, and snatched young ducks and chickens. They even invaded our kitchen. Oh, the rats were intolerable! Traps didn’t work, and arsenic was useless—they wouldn’t touch it. Fortunately, we managed to get two refined, sleek English terriers—a male and a female. Then began a slaughter we rarely witness. The rats grew bold. The dogs caught dozens of them daily as they emerged from their hiding spots, unafraid as before. As the rats became more cautious, we watched their holes, and every morning we found dead rats around the property. The dogs pointed out their burrows during the day. We removed planks, found nests, and quickly killed the rats, both young and old. Hundreds were wiped out in the first few weeks, and soon, the place was mostly cleared of them, leaving just enough to keep the dogs entertained and reminding us that despite all our efforts, they will stick around wherever there’s food and a hiding place.
To have the terrier in full perfection, it is important that the breed be pure. We are so prone to mix up everything we get, in this country, that it is sometimes difficult to get anything exactly as it should be; but a little care will provide us, in this particular. He should be properly trained, too, when young. That is, to mind what is said to him. His intelligence will be equal to all your wants in the dog-line; but he should not be fooled with. His instincts are sure. And, with a good education, the terrier will prove all you need in a farm, and a watch-dog. We speak from long experience, and observation.
To have the terrier in its prime, it's important that the breed is pure. We tend to mix everything up in this country, making it hard to find anything exactly as it should be; however, a little care can help with that. He should also be properly trained when he's young, meaning he should listen to what you say. His intelligence will meet all your needs when it comes to dogs; but he shouldn’t be messed with. His instincts are strong. With good training, the terrier will be everything you need on a farm and as a watch-dog. We speak from extensive experience and observation.
THE SHEPHERD DOG.
The Shepherd Dog.
The shepherd dog is another useful—almost indispensable—creature, on the sheep, or dairy farm. This cut is an accurate representation of the finest of the breed. To the flock-master, he saves a world of labor, in driving and gathering the flocks together, or from one field, or place, to another. To the sheep-drover, also, he is worth a man, at least; and in many cases, can do with a flock what a man can not do. But for this labor, he requires training, and a strict, thorough education, by those who know how to do it. He is a peaceable, quiet creature; good for little else than driving, and on a stock farm will save fifty times his cost and keeping, every year. He is a reasonably good watch-dog, also; but he has neither the instinct, nor sagacity of the terrier, in that duty. To keep him 382 in his best estate, for his own peculiar work, he should not be troubled with other labors, as it distracts his attention from his peculiar duties. We had a remarkably good dog, of this kind, a few years since. He was worth the services of a stout boy, in bringing up the cattle, and sheep, until an idle boy or two, in the neighborhood, decoyed him out in "cooning," a few nights during one autumn—in which he proved a most capital hunter; and after that, he became worthless, as a cattle dog. He was always rummaging around among the trees, barking at birds, squirrels, or any live thing that he could find; and no man could coax 383 him back to the dull routine of his duty. A shepherd dog should never go a-hunting.
The shepherd dog is another useful—almost essential—animal on sheep or dairy farms. This image shows an accurate representation of the best of the breed. For the flock-master, it saves a ton of effort in driving and gathering the flocks from one field or place to another. For the sheep-drover, it’s worth at least one person; in many cases, it can handle a flock in ways a person can’t. But for this work, it needs training and a strict, thorough education from those who know how. It is a peaceful, quiet creature; good for little else than driving, and on a stock farm, it saves fifty times its cost and care every year. It's also a fairly good watch-dog, but it lacks the instinct and smarts of a terrier for that role. To keep it in top shape for its special job, it shouldn't be distracted with other tasks that take attention away from its main duties. We had an exceptionally good dog of this kind a few years ago. It was as useful as a strong boy in managing the cattle and sheep until a couple of idle boys in the neighborhood lured it out for "cooning" a few nights one autumn—where it turned out to be an excellent hunter; after that, it became useless as a cattle dog. It was always rummaging around the trees, barking at birds, squirrels, or anything alive it could find, and no one could get it back to the boring routine of its duties. A shepherd dog should never go hunting.
We would not be understood as condemning everything else, excepting the dogs we have named, for farm use. The Newfoundland, and the mastiff, are enormously large dogs, and possessed of some noble qualities. They have performed feats of sagacity and fidelity which have attracted universal admiration; but, three to one, if you have them on your farm, they will kill every sheep upon it; and their watchfulness is no greater than that of the shepherd dog, or the terrier. We have spoken of such as we have entire confidence in, and such as we consider the best for useful service. There are some kinds of cur dog that are useful. They are of no breed at all, to be sure; but have, now and then, good qualities; and when nothing better can be got, they will do for a make-shift. But as a rule, we would be equally particular in the breed of our dog, as we would in the breed of our cattle, or sheep. There are altogether too many dogs kept, in the country, and most usually by a class of people who have no need of them, and which prove only a nuisance to the neighborhood, and a destruction to the goods of others. Thousands of useful sheep are annually destroyed by them; and in some regions of the country, they can not be kept, by reason of their destruction by worthless dogs, which are owned by the disorderly people about them. In a western state, some time ago, in conversing with a large farmer, who had a flock of perhaps a hundred sheep running in one of his pastures, and who also kept a dozen hounds, for 384 hunting, we asked him whether the dogs did not kill his sheep? "To be sure they do," was his reply; "but the dogs are worth more than the sheep, for they give us great sport in hunting deer, and foxes; and the sheep only give us a little mutton, now and then, and some wool for the women to make into stockings!" This is a mere matter of taste, thought we, and the conversation on that subject dropped. Yet, this man had a thousand acres of the richest land in the world; raised three or four hundred acres of corn, a year; fed off a hundred head of cattle, annually; and sold three hundred hogs every year, for slaughtering!
We’re not saying that everything else is bad, except for the dogs we’ve mentioned for farm work. The Newfoundland and the mastiff are huge dogs with some impressive traits. They’ve performed acts of intelligence and loyalty that have earned them widespread admiration; but, three times out of four, if you have them on your farm, they’ll end up killing all your sheep. Their ability to watch over things is no better than that of a shepherd dog or a terrier. We’ve talked about dogs we trust completely and believe are the best for practical use. Some mixed-breed dogs can be helpful. They don’t belong to any specific breed, of course, but sometimes they have decent qualities, and when there’s nothing better available, they can work as a temporary solution. However, generally speaking, we’d be just as picky about the breed of our dog as we would about the breed of our cattle or sheep. There are way too many dogs around in the countryside, mostly owned by people who don’t really need them, and they end up being a nuisance to the neighborhood and damaging others’ property. Thousands of useful sheep are killed by them every year, and in some parts of the country, they can’t be kept because of the harm caused by useless dogs owned by irresponsible people nearby. A while back, in a western state, I was talking with a large farmer who had a flock of about a hundred sheep in one of his pastures and kept a dozen hounds for hunting. I asked him if the dogs killed his sheep. His response was, “Of course they do, but the dogs are worth more than the sheep because they give us great fun hunting deer and foxes; the sheep just give us a little mutton now and then and some wool for the women to make stockings!” We thought this was just a matter of personal preference, so we dropped the conversation there. Yet, this guy owned a thousand acres of some of the richest land around; he grew three or four hundred acres of corn every year; fed a hundred head of cattle annually; and sold three hundred pigs every year for slaughter!
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PRIVATE LIBRARIES.
The American Farm Book;
The American Farm Book; or, a Compend of American Agriculture, being a Practical Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roots, Fruits, Cotton, Tobacco, Sugar-Cane, Rice, and every staple product of the United States; with the best methods of Planting, Cultivating, and Preparation for Market. Illustrated by more than 100 engravings. By R. L. Allen. Cloth, $1; mail edition, paper, 75 cts.
The American Farm Book; or, a Compendium of American Agriculture, is a practical guide on soils, fertilizers, drainage, irrigation, grasses, grains, roots, fruits, cotton, tobacco, sugarcane, rice, and every main product of the United States; featuring the best methods of planting, cultivating, and preparing for the market. Illustrated with over 100 engravings. By R. L. Allen. Cloth, $1; mail edition, paper, 75 cents.
American Poultry Yard;
The American Poultry Yard; comprising the Origin, History and Description of the different Breeds of Domestic Poultry, with complete directions for their Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Fattening, and Preparation for Market; including specific directions for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of the Principal Diseases to which they are subject; drawn from authentic sources and personal observation. Illustrated with numerous engravings. By D. J. Browne. Cloth or sheep, $1; mail edition, paper, 75 cts.
The American Poultry Yard; covering the origin, history, and description of various breeds of domestic poultry, with thorough instructions for breeding, crossing, raising, fattening, and preparing them for market; including specific instructions for caponizing birds and handling the main diseases they face; based on reliable sources and personal experience. Illustrated with many engravings. By D. J. Browne. Cloth or sheep, $1; mail edition, paper, 75 cts.
The Diseases of Domestic Animals;
Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Poultry, and Farm Dogs, with Directions for their Management, Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and Preparation for a profitable Market; also, their Diseases and Remedies; together with full Directions for the Management of the Dairy, and the Comparative Economy and Advantages of Working Animals, the Horse, Mule, Oxen, &c. By R. L. Allen. Cloth or sheep, 75 cts.; mail edition, paper, 50 cts.
Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Poultry, and Farm Dogs, with Instructions for their Care, Breeding, Crossbreeding, Rearing, Feeding, and Preparation for a Profitable Market; also, their Diseases and Treatments; along with Complete Instructions for Dairy Management, and the Comparative Costs and Benefits of Working Animals, such as Horses, Mules, and Oxen. By R. L. Allen. Cloth or sheep, $0.75; mail edition, paper, $0.50.
American Bee Keeper's Manual;
Being a Practical Treatise on the History and Domestic Economy of the Honey Bee, embracing a full illustration of the whole subject, with the most approved methods of Managing this Insect, through every branch of its Culture, the result of many years' experience. Illustrated with many engravings. By T. B. Miner. Cloth or sheep, $1.
Being a Practical Guide on the History and Domestic Care of the Honey Bee, covering a complete overview of the topic, along with the best methods for managing this insect throughout all aspects of its cultivation, based on many years of experience. Illustrated with numerous engravings. By T. B. Miner. Cloth or sheep, $1.
The Modern Stair Builder's Guide:
Being a Plain, Practical System of Hand Railing, embracing all its necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by Twenty-two Steel Engravings; together with the Use of the most important Principles of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. $2.
Being a straightforward, practical guide to hand railing, covering all essential details and illustrated with twenty-two steel engravings; along with the application of key principles of practical geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. $2.
Prize Essay on Manures.
An Essay on Manures, submitted to the Trustees of the Massachusetts Society for Promoting Agriculture, for their Premium. By Samuel L. Dana. Paper. 25 cts.
An Essay on Fertilizers, submitted to the Trustees of the Massachusetts Society for Promoting Agriculture, for their Award. By Samuel L. Dana. Paper. 25 cents.
American Bird Fancier.
Considered with reference to the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management, &c., of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with engravings. By D. J. Browne. Cloth, 50 cts.; mail edition, paper, 25 cts.
Considered in relation to the breeding, raising, feeding, management, etc., of caged and house birds. Illustrated with engravings. By D. J. Browne. Cloth, 50 cents; mail edition, paper, 25 cents.
American Architect.
The American Architect; comprising Original Designs of cheap Country and Village Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans, and Directions, and an estimate of the Cost of each Design. By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second Series quarto, bound in 2 vols., sheep, $6. Mail edition, paper, $5.
The American Architect; featuring Original Designs for affordable Country and Village Homes, including Details, Specifications, Plans, and Instructions, along with a cost estimate for each Design. By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second Series quarto, bound in 2 volumes, sheep, $6. Mail edition, paper, $5.
Domestic Medicine.
Gunn's Domestic Medicine; or, Poor Man's Friend in the Hours of Affliction, Pain, and Sickness. Raymond's new revised edition, improved and enlarged by John C. Gunn, 8vo. Sheep. $3.
Gunn's Domestic Medicine; or, The Poor Man's Friend in Times of Affliction, Pain, and Sickness. Raymond's newly revised edition, improved and expanded by John C. Gunn, 8vo. Sheep. $3.
Saxton's American Farmer's Almanac for 1852.
Per 100, $3.
$3 per 100.
Family Kitchen Gardener.
Containing Plain and Accurate Descriptions of all the Different Species and Varieties of Culinary Vegetables; with their Botanical, English, French, and German names, alphabetically arranged, and the best mode of cultivating them in the garden, or under glass; also, Descriptions and Character of the most Select Fruits, their Management Propagation, &c. By Robert Buist, author of the American Flower Garden Directory, &c. cloth or sheep, 75 cts.; mail edition, paper, 50 cts.
Containing clear and precise descriptions of all the different types and varieties of cooking vegetables; including their botanical, English, French, and German names, arranged alphabetically, along with the best ways to grow them in the garden or under glass; also, descriptions and characteristics of the finest fruits, their care, propagation, etc. By Robert Buist, author of the American Flower Garden Directory, etc. Cloth or sheep, $0.75; mail edition, paper, $0.50.
Practical Agriculture.
Being a Treatise on the General Relations which Science bears to Agriculture. Delivered before the New York State Agricultural Society, by James F. W. Johnston, F.R.S.S.S. and E., Professor of Agricultural Chemistry in Durham University, and author of Lectures on Agricultural Chemistry, with Notes and Explanations by an American Farmer. Cloth, 75 cts.; mail edition, paper, 50 cts.
Being a Treatise on the General Relations between Science and Agriculture. Presented to the New York State Agricultural Society by James F. W. Johnston, F.R.S.S.S. and E., Professor of Agricultural Chemistry at Durham University, and author of Lectures on Agricultural Chemistry, with Notes and Explanations by an American Farmer. Cloth, 75 cents; mail edition, paper, 50 cents.
Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology.
By J. F. W. Johnston, M.A., F.R.S. 50 cts.
By J. F. W. Johnston, M.A., F.R.S. 50 cents.
Youatt and Martin on Cattle:
Being a Treatise on their Breeds, Management, and Diseases; comprising a full History of the Various Races; their Origin, Breeding, and Merits; their capacity for Beef and Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. L. Martin. The whole forming a complete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 illustrations. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. $1.25.
Being a Guide on their Breeds, Care, and Diseases; including a complete History of the Different Types; their Origin, Breeding, and Qualities; their capacity for Beef and Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. L. Martin. The entire work serves as a comprehensive Resource for Farmers, Hobbyists, and Veterinarians, featuring 100 illustrations. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. $1.25.
Youatt on the Horse.
Youatt on the Structure and Diseases of the Horse, with their Remedies. Also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Breakers, Smiths, &c. Edited by W. C. Spooner, M.R.C.V.S. With an account of the Breeds in the United States, by Henry S. Randall. $1.25.
Youatt on the Structure and Diseases of the Horse, with their Remedies. Also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Trainers, Blacksmiths, etc. Edited by W. C. Spooner, M.R.C.V.S. With a description of the Breeds in the United States, by Henry S. Randall. $1.25.
Youatt on Sheep:
Their Breed, Management, and Diseases, with illustrative engravings; to which are added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in the United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia. By Wm. Youatt. 75 cts.
Their breed, care, and illnesses, with accompanying illustrations; along with comments on the breeds and care of sheep in the United States, and on the cultivation of fine wool in Silesia. By Wm. Youatt. 75 cents.
Hoare on the Grape Vine.
A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine on open Walls, with a Descriptive Account of an improved method of Planting and Managing the Roots of Grape Vines. By Clement Hoare. With an Appendix on the Cultivation of the same in the United States. 50 cts.
A Practical Guide to Growing Grape Vines on Open Walls, with a Detailed Description of an Improved Method for Planting and Managing Grape Vine Roots. By Clement Hoare. With an Appendix on Growing Them in the United States. 50 cts.
The American Agriculturist:
Being a Collection of Original Articles on the Various Subjects connected with the Farm, in ten vols. 8vo., containing nearly four thousand pages. $10.
Being a Collection of Original Articles on the Various Subjects connected with the Farm, in ten vols. 8vo., containing nearly four thousand pages. $10.
Johnston's Agricultural Chemistry.
Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geology to Agriculture. New edition, with an Appendix. $1.25.
Lectures on the Use of Chemistry and Geology in Agriculture. New edition, with an Appendix. $1.25.
Stephens' Book of the Farm.
A Complete Guide to the Farmer, Steward, Plowman, Cattleman, Shepherd, Field-Worker, and Dairy Maid. By Henry Stephens. With Four Hundred and Fifty Illustrations; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, &c., by J. S. Skinner. Really one of the best books for a Farmer to possess. Cloth, $4; leather, $4.50.
A Complete Guide for Farmers, Stewards, Plowmen, Cattlemen, Shepherds, Field Workers, and Dairy Maids. By Henry Stephens. With 450 Illustrations, plus Explanatory Notes, Comments, etc., by J. S. Skinner. Truly one of the best books a farmer can own. Cloth, $4; leather, $4.50.
The Complete Farmer and American Gardener,
Rural Economist, and New American Gardener, containing a Compendious Epitome of the most Important Branches of Agricultural and Rural Economy; with Practical Directions on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables; including Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By Thomas G. Fessenden. 2 vols. in one. $1.25.
Rural Economist and New American Gardener, featuring a concise overview of the key areas of agricultural and rural economy; with practical tips on growing fruits and vegetables; including landscaping and ornamental gardening. By Thomas G. Fessenden. 2 vols. in one. $1.25.
Chemistry Made Easy,
For the Use of Farmers. By J. Topham, M.A. 25 cts.
For Farmers' Use. By J. Topham, M.A. 25 cts.
Brandy and Salt,
A Remedy for various Internal as well as External Diseases, Inflammation and Local Injuries. By Rev. Samuel Fenton. 12½ cts.
A Solution for Various Internal and External Illnesses, Inflammation, and Local Injuries. By Rev. Samuel Fenton. 12½ cts.
Southern Agriculture.
Comprising Essays on the Cultivation of Corn, Hemp, Tobacco, Wheat, &c. $1.
Comprising Essays on Growing Corn, Hemp, Tobacco, Wheat, & more. $1.
The Cottage and Farm Bee Keeper:
A Practical Work, by a Country Curate. 50 cts.
A Practical Work, by a Country Curate. 50 cents.
A Book for Every Boy in the Country.
Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French, and adapted to General Use, by F. G. Skinner. 25 cts.
Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French and adapted for General Use by F. G. Skinner. 25 cents.
Rural Architecture;
Comprising Farm Houses, Cottages, Carriage Houses, Sheep and Dove Cotes, Piggeries, Barns, &c. &c. By Lewis F. Allen. $1.25.
Comprising Farm Houses, Cottages, Carriage Houses, Sheep and Dove Cotes, Piggeries, Barns, etc. By Lewis F. Allen. $1.25.
The American Muck Book.
The American Muck Book; treating of the Nature, Properties, Sources, History, and Operations of all the principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common Use, with Specific Directions for their Preservation, and Application to the Soil and to Crops; drawn from Authentic Sources, Actual Experience, and Personal Observation, as Combined with the leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. By J. D. Browne. $1.
The American Muck Book; covering the Nature, Properties, Sources, History, and Uses of all the main Fertilizers and Manures commonly used, with specific instructions for their storage and application to soil and crops; based on reliable sources, real experience, and personal observation, combined with the key principles of practical and scientific agriculture. By J. D. Browne. $1.
Youatt on the Pig.
A Treatise on the Breeds, Management, and Medical Treatment of Swine; with direction for Salting Pork, Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. Youatt, R.S. Illustrated with engravings drawn from life. 60 cts.
A Treatise on the Breeds, Management, and Medical Treatment of Swine; with directions for Salting Pork, Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. Youatt, R.S. Illustrated with drawings based on real life. 60 cts.
Youatt on the Dog.
By Wm. Youatt. Splendidly illustrated. Edited, with Additions, by E. J. Lewis, M.D. $1.50.
By Wm. Youatt. Splendidly illustrated. Edited, with additions, by E. J. Lewis, M.D. $1.50.
The Poultry Book.
By John C. Bennett, M.D. 84 cts.
By John C. Bennett, M.D. 84 cts.
The American Poulterer's Companion,
With illustrations. By C. N. Bement. $1.
With illustrations. By C. N. Bement. $1.
American Poultry Book.
By Micajah Cook. 38 cts.
By Micajah Cook. 38 cts.
The Rose Culturist.
A Practical Treatise on its Cultivation and Management. 38 cts.
A Practical Guide to Its Growing and Care. 38 cents.
A Practical Treatise on Honey Bees,
Their Management, &c. By Edward Townley. 50 cts.
Their Management, etc. By Edward Townley. 50 cents.
The American Fruit Book.
By S. W. Cole. 50 cts.
By S. W. Cole. 50 cents.
The American Veterinarian.
By S. W. Cole. 50 cts.
By S. W. Cole. 50 cents.
The Gardener's Text Book.
By Peter Adam Schenck. 50 cts.
By Peter Adam Schenck. $0.50
The American Gardener.
By William Cobbett. 50 cts.
By William Cobbett. 50 cents.
The Farmer's Land Measurer.
By James Pedder. 50 cts.
By James Pedder. 50 cts.
New England Fruit Book.
By John M. Ives. 56 cts.
By John M. Ives. 56 cents.
Practical Treatise on Fruits,
Adapted to New England Culture. By George Jaques. 50 cts.
Adapted to New England Culture. By George Jaques. 50 cents
Farmer and Emigrant's Hand Book.
A Guide to Clearing the Forest and Prairie Land, &c., &c. By Josiah T. Marshall. 75 cts.
A Guide to Clearing the Forest and Prairie Land, etc., etc. By Josiah T. Marshall. 75 cents.
Farmer's Barn Book.
By Youatt, Clater, Skinner and Mills. $1.25.
By Youatt, Clater, Skinner, and Mills. $1.25.
Hind's Farriery and Stud Book.
Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1.
Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1.
Mason's Farrier and Stud Book.
Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1.25.
Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1.25.
Stewart's Stable Economy.
A Treatise on the Management of Horses. Edited by A. B. Allen. $1.
A Guide to Horse Management. Edited by A. B. Allen. $1.
Sugar Planter's Manual.
By W. S. Evans, M.D. $1.25.
By W. S. Evans, M.D. $1.25.
Treatise on Hothouses and Ventilation.
By R. B. Suckars. $1.25.
By R. B. Suckars. $1.25.
Ornamental and Domestic Poultry.
By Rev. Edmund Saul Dixon, A.M. With Large Additions by J. J. Kerr, M.D. With illustrations. $1.
By Rev. Edmund Saul Dixon, A.M. With significant contributions by J. J. Kerr, M.D. With illustrations. $1.
Canfield on Sheep,
Their Breeds, Management, Structure, and Diseases. With Illustrative Engravings and an Appendix. Edited by H. J. Canfield. $1.
Their Breeds, Management, Structure, and Diseases. With Illustrative Engravings and an Appendix. Edited by H. J. Canfield. $1.
Book of Flowers,
In which are described the various Hardy Herbaceous Perennials, Annuals, Shrubby Plants and Evergreen Trees desirable for Ornamental Purposes. By Jos. Breck. 75 cts.
In this section, you'll find descriptions of different hardy herbaceous perennials, annuals, shrubby plants, and evergreen trees that are great for ornamental use. By Jos. Breck. 75 cts.
Experimental Researches on the Food of Animals,
The Fattening of Cattle, and Remarks on the Food of Man. By Robert Dundas Thompson, M.D. 75 cts.
The Fattening of Cattle, and Comments on Human Food. By Robert Dundas Thompson, M.D. 75 cts.
The American Flower Garden Companion,
Revised and enlarged. By Edward Sayres. 75 cts.
Revised and expanded. By Edward Sayres. 75 cents.
The Farmer's Treasure.
A Treatise on the Nature and Value of Manures, and Productive Farming. By F. Faulkner and Joseph A. Smith. 75 cts.
A Treatise on the Nature and Value of Manures, and Productive Farming. By F. Faulkner and Joseph A. Smith. 75 cents.
The Practical Farrier.
By Richard Mason. 75 cts.
By Richard Mason. 75 cts.
The American Farrier.
By Barnum. 75 cts.
By Barnum. 75 cents.
Principles of Practical Gardening.
By Geo. W. Johnston, Esq. $1.25.
By Geo. W. Johnston, Esq. $1.25.
The American Fruit Garden Companion.
A Treatise on the Propagation and Culture of Fruit. By S. Sayres. 38 cts.
A Guide to Growing and Cultivating Fruit. By S. Sayres. 38 cents.
Spooner on the Grape.
The Cultivation of American Grape Vines, and making of Wine. By Alden Spooner. 38 cts.
The Cultivation of American Grape Vines and the Making of Wine. By Alden Spooner. 38 cents.
The Young Gardener's Assistant.
By Thomas Bridgeman. $1.50.
By Thomas Bridgeman. $1.50.
The Florist's Guide.
By Thos. Bridgeman. 50 cts.
By Thos. Bridgeman. $0.50
The Kitchen Gardener's Instructor.
By Bridgeman. 50 cts.
By Bridgeman. 50 cents.
The Fruit Cultivator's Manual.
By Bridgeman. 50 cts.
By Bridgeman. 50 cents.
The Horse,
Its Habits, Diseases and Management, in the Stable and on the Road, &c. 25 cts.
Its Habits, Diseases, and Management, in the Stable and on the Road, &c. 25 cts.
The Fruit, Flower, and Kitchen Garden.
By Patrick Neill, LL.D., F.R.S., adapted to the United States. $1.25.
By Patrick Neill, LL.D., F.R.S., adapted for the United States. $1.25.
Ladies' Companion to the Flower Garden.
By Mrs. Loudon. Edited by A. J. Downing. $1.25.
By Mrs. Loudon. Edited by A. J. Downing. $1.25.
The Fruits and Fruit Trees of America.
By A. J. Downing. $1.50.
Do. do.
do. do.
colored, 15.00.
By A. J. Downing. $1.50.
Do do do do colored, 15.00.
Dictionary of Modern Gardening.
By Geo. W. Johnston. Edited by David Landreth. $1.50.
By Geo. W. Johnston. Edited by David Landreth. $1.50.
The Rose Fancier's Manual.
By Mrs. Gore. $1.50.
By Mrs. Gore. $1.50.
Parsons on the Rose.
The Rose: its History, Poetry, Culture, and Classification. By S. B. Parsons. $1.50.
The Rose: its History, Poetry, Culture, and Classification. By S. B. Parsons. $1.50.
Hovey's Fruits of America.
Containing richly colored Figures and full Descriptions of all the Choicest Varieties cultivated in the United States, in 12 numbers. $12.
Containing vividly colored illustrations and detailed descriptions of all the finest varieties cultivated in the United States, in 12 issues. $12.
History, Treatment and Diseases of the Horse,
With a Treatise on Draught, and Copious Index. $2.
With a Guide on Drafting, and Extensive Index. $2.
Rural Economy,
In its Relations with Chemistry, Physics, and Meteorology. By J. B. Boussingault. Translated, &c., by George Law. $1.
In its Connections with Chemistry, Physics, and Meteorology. By J. B. Boussingault. Translated, etc., by George Law. $1.
Liebig's Agricultural Chemistry.
Edited by Lyon Playfair, Ph.D., F.G.S, and William Gregory, M.D., P.R.S.E. $1.
Edited by Lyon Playfair, Ph.D., F.G.S., and William Gregory, M.D., P.R.S.E. $1.
The Modern System of Farriery,
As Practiced at the Present Time at the Royal Veterinary College, and from Twenty Years' Practice of the Author, George Skevington, M.R.V.C. $5.
As Practiced Today at the Royal Veterinary College, and from Twenty Years' Experience of the Author, George Skevington, M.R.V.C. $5.
Ewbank's Hydraulics:
A Descriptive and Historical Account of Hydraulic and other Machines for Raising Water. $2.50.
A Detailed History and Description of Hydraulic and Other Machines for Pumping Water. $2.50.
The Fruit Garden.
By P. Barry. $1.25.
By P. Barry. $1.25.
The American Fruit Culturist;
Containing Directions for the Culture of Fruit Trees in the Nursery, Orchard, and Garden. By John J. Thomas. $1.
Containing Instructions for Growing Fruit Trees in the Nursery, Orchard, and Garden. By John J. Thomas. $1.
The Rose Manual.
By Robert Buist. 75 cts.
By Robert Buist. 75 cents.
The Plants of Boston and Vicinity.
By Jacob Bigelow, M.D. $1.50.
By Jacob Bigelow, M.D. $1.50.
The Indian Meal Book;
Comprising the best Receipts for the Preparation of that Article. By Miss Leslie. 25 cts.
Comprising the best recipes for making that item. By Miss Leslie. 25 cents.
The Horse's Foot,
And How to Keep it Sound. By William Miles. 25 cts.
And How to Keep it Sound. By William Miles. 25 cents.
Catechism of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology.
By J. F. W. Johnston. 25 cts.
By J. F. W. Johnston. 25 cents.
Chemistry Applied to Agriculture.
By Le Count Chaptal. 50 cts.
By Le Count Chaptal. 50 cents.
British Husbandry.
Three Vols. and Supplement. $5.
3 Volumes and Supplement. $5.
Loudon's Arboretum.
Eight Vols. $25.
8 Vols. $25.
Loudon on Gardening.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Gardening. $10.
Loudon's Gardening Encyclopedia. $10.
Loudon on Agriculture.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Agriculture. $10.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Agriculture. $10.
Loudon on Trees, &c.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Trees, Shrubs, &c.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Trees, Shrubs, etc.
Loudon on Plants, &c.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Plants, &c.
Loudon's Encyclopedia of Plants, etc.
The Farmer's Library.
Two vols. 8vo. English. $5.
Two volumes. 8vo. English. $5.
The Farmer's Dictionary.
By D. P. Gardner. $1.50.
By D. P. Gardner. $1.50.
Practical Treatise on the Grape Vine.
By J. Fisk Allen. Boards, $1; paper, 88 cts.
By J. Fisk Allen. Boards, $1; paperback, 88 cents.
Practical Treatise on the Veterinary Art.
By J. Briddon. 75 cts.
By J. Briddon. 75 cts.
Sheep Husbandry.
By Henry S. Randall. $1.25.
By Henry S. Randall. $1.25.
Agricultural Chemistry.
By Justus Liebig. Cloth, $1; cheap edition, 25 cts.
By Justus Liebig. Cloth, $1; budget edition, 25 cents.
Animal Chemistry.
By J. Liebig. Cloth, 50 cts.; cheap ed. paper, 25 cts.
By J. Liebig. Cloth, 50 cents; cheap edition paper, 25 cents.
Liebig's Complete Works,
In one vol. 8vo. $1.
In one volume, 8vo. $1.
Cottage and Farm Houses.
By A. J. Downing. $2.
By A. J. Downing. $2.
Country Houses.
By A. J. Downing. $4.
By A. J. Downing. $4.
Sportsman's Library.
By T. B. Johnson. English edition. $5.
By T. B. Johnson. English edition. $5.
Landscape Gardening.
By A. J. Downing. $3.50.
By A. J. Downing. $3.50.
Cottage Residences.
By A. J. Downing $2.
By A. J. Downing $2.
Chaptal's Agricultural Chemistry,
With Notes. $1.
With Notes. $1.
American Husbandry.
By Gaylord and Tucker. $1.
By Gaylord and Tucker. $1.
Gardener's Dictionary.
By Geo. Don, F.L.S. 4 vols. quarto. $10.
By Geo. Don, F.L.S. 4 volumes, quarto. $10.
Journal of Agriculture.
Edited by John S. Skinner. 3 vols. $6.
Edited by John S. Skinner. 3 vols. $6.
Downing's Horticulturist.
Half morocco. Per Vol. yearly Vols. $3.75.
Do. do. half yearly "
2.00.
Half morocco. Per Volume yearly Volumes. $3.75.
Do.do. half yearly " 2.00.
The Complete Produce Reckoner,
Showing the Value by Pound or Bushel. By R. Robbins. 75 cts.
Showing the Value by Pound or Bushel. By R. Robbins. 75 cents.
The American Shepherd.
By L. A. Morrill. $1.
By L.A. Morrill. $1.
The Principles of Agriculture.
By Albert D. Thaer. $2.50.
By Albert D. Thaer. $2.50.
Lectures to Farmers on Agricultural Chemistry.
By Alexander Petzholdts. 75 cts.
By Alexander Petzholdts. 75 cents.
The Complete Farrier.
By John C. Knowlson. 25 cts.
By John C. Knowlson. 25 cents.
The Complete Cow Doctor.
By J. C. Knowlson. 25 cts.
By J. C. Knowlson. 25 cents.
Milch Cows.
By Guenon. 38 cts.
By Guenon. 38 cts.
A Home for All;
Or a New, Cheap, and Superior mode of Building. By O. S. Fowler. 50 cts.
Or a New, Affordable, and Better Way to Build. By O. S. Fowler. 50 cents.
The Poultry Breeder.
By George P. Burnham. 25 cts.
By George P. Burnham. 25 cents.
The American Fowl Breeder. 25 cents.
The Farmer's Companion.
By Judge Buel. 75 cts.
By Judge Buel. 75 cents.
The Farmer's Instructor.
By Judge Buel. $1.
By Judge Buel. $1.
European Agriculture,
From Personal Observation. By Henry Coleman. 2 vols.
$5.00.
Do. do.
do. 1 vol. $4.50.
From Personal Observation. By Henry Coleman. 2 vols. $5.00.
Do.do.do.1 vol. $4.50.
The Gardener and Florist. 25 cents.
The Honey Bee.
By Bevan. 31 cts.
By Bevan. 31 cents.
Elements of Practical Agriculture.
By John P. Norton. 50 cts.
By John P. Norton. 50 cents.
Rogers' Scientific Agriculture. 75 cents.
Mills' Sportsman's Library. $1.
Stable Talk and Table Talk. $1.
Hawker and Porter on Shooting. $2.75.
Field Sports.
By Frank Forrester. 2 vols. $4
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Spelling
The spellings "chesnut" and "chestnut", "turkeys" and "turkies" are used interchangeably; the forms "mantle piece" and "mantle-piece" occur one time each. The spelling "Alleghanies" is used consistently.
The spellings "chesnut" and "chestnut," "turkeys" and "turkies" are used interchangeably; the forms "mantle piece" and "mantle-piece" appear one time each. The spelling "Alleghanies" is used consistently.
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