This is a modern-English version of Farm drainage: The Principles, Processes, and Effects of Draining Land with Stones, Wood, Plows, and Open Ditches, and Especially with Tiles, originally written by French, Henry F. (Henry Flagg).
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FARM DRAINAGE.
THE
PRINCIPLES, PROCESSES, AND EFFECTS
OF
DRAINING LAND
WITH STONES, WOOD, PLOWS, AND OPEN DITCHES,
AND ESPECIALLY WITH TILES;
INCLUDING
TABLES OF RAIN-FALL,
EVAPORATION, FILTRATION, EXCAVATION, CAPACITY OF PIPES; COST AND NUMBER
TO THE ACRE, OF TILES, &C., &C.,
THE
PRINCIPLES, PROCESSES, AND EFFECTS
OF
DRAINING LAND
WITH STONES, WOOD, PLOWS, AND OPEN DITCHES,
AND ESPECIALLY WITH TILES;
INCLUDING
TABLES OF RAINFALL,
EVAPORATION, FILTRATION, EXCAVATION, PIPE CAPACITY; COST AND QUANTITY
PER ACRE OF TILES, &C., &C.,
AND MORE THAN 100 ILLUSTRATIONS.
AND OVER 100 ILLUSTRATIONS.
BY
HENRY F. FRENCH.
BY
HENRY F. FRENCH.
"Read, not to contradict and to confute, nor to believe and take for granted, but to weigh and consider."—Bacon.
"Read, not to argue and disprove, nor to accept without question, but to evaluate and reflect."—Bacon.
"The first Farmer was the first man, and all nobility rests on the possession and use of land."—Emerson.
"The first farmer was the first human, and all nobility is based on owning and using land."—Emerson.
NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, BARKER & CO.,
AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, No. 25 PARK ROW
1860.
NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, BARKER & CO.,
AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, 25 PARK ROW
1860.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859,
By HENRY F. FRENCH,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in and for the
Southern District of New York.
Logged in, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859,
By Henry F. French,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.
to
The Honorable Simon Brown,
of Massachusetts,
A Lover of Agriculture, and a Progressive Farmer,
whose Words and Works are so well devoted to Improve the Condition
of Those who Cultivate the Earth,
this Book is Inscribed, as a Testimonial of Respect and Personal Esteem,
by his Friend and Brother,
to
Judge Simon Brown,
of Massachusetts,
A Lover of Agriculture and an Innovative Farmer,
whose Words and Efforts are aimed at Improving the Lives
of Those who Cultivate the Land,
this Book is Dedicated, as a Mark of Respect and Personal Admiration,
by his Friend and Brother,
The Author.
The Author.
PREFACE.
The Agriculture of America has seemed to me to demand some light upon the subject of Drainage; some work, which, with an exposition of the various theories, should give the simplest details of the practice, of draining land. This treatise is an attempt to answer that demand, and to give to the farmers of our country, at the same time, enough of scientific principles to satisfy intelligent inquiry, and plain and full directions for executing work in the field, according to the best known rules. It has been my endeavor to show what lands in America require drainage, and how to drain them best, at least expense; to explain how the theories and the practice of the Old World require modification for the cheaper lands, the dearer labor, and the various climate of the New; and, finally, to suggest how, through improved implements and processes, the inventive genius of our country may make the brain assist and relieve the labor of the hand.
The agriculture in America seems to need more clarity on the topic of drainage; a resource that explains various theories while providing straightforward details on how to drain land. This document aims to meet that need by offering American farmers enough scientific principles to satisfy their curiosity, along with clear and comprehensive instructions for fieldwork based on the best available practices. I aim to identify which lands in America need drainage and how to drain them most effectively and affordably; to clarify how the theories and practices from the Old World should be adjusted for our less expensive land, higher labor costs, and diverse climate; and finally, to propose how our country's innovative spirit can enhance and ease manual labor through better tools and methods.
With some hope that my humble labors, in a field so broad, may not have entirely failed of their object, this work is offered to the attention of American farmers.
With the hope that my modest efforts in such a vast field have indeed accomplished their purpose, this work is presented for the consideration of American farmers.
H. F. F.
H.F.F.
The Pines, Exeter, N. H., March, 1859.
The Pines, Exeter, NH, March 1859.
LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.
- PAGE.
- Elkington's Mode __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
- Ditch and Bore-hole 35
- Keythorpe System 42
- Theory of Springs __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
- Plug Drainage __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
- Mole Plow 108
- Wedge Drains 111
- Shoulder Drains 111
- Larch Tube 112
- Pole Drain 113
- Peat Tiles and Tool 113
- Stone Drains __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__-__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
- Draining Bricks 121
- Round Pipes 122
- Horse-shoe Tile 124
- Sole-Tile 125
- Pipes and Collar 126
- Flat-bottomed Pipe-Tile 129
- Drains across Slope 150
- Draining Irregular Strata 162
- Relief Drains 162
- Small Outlet 178
- Large Outlet __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
- Outlet, with Flap 181
- Well, with Silt Basin 186
- Peep-hole 188
- Spring in Drained Field 189
- Main of Two Tiles 194
- Main of Several Tiles 194
- Plan of Drained Field 195
- Junction of Drains 196
- Branch Pipe 197
- Daines' Tile Machine 209
- Pratt's Tile Machine 210
- Tiles, laid well and ill 229
- Square and Plumb-Level 229
- Spirit Level 230
- Staff and Target 231
- Span, or A Level 232
- Grading Trenches by Lines 233
- Challoner's Level 235
- Drain Spades 235
- Spade with Spur 236
- Common Shovel and Spade 236
- Long-handled Round Shovel 237
- Shovel Scoop 237
- Irish Spade 238
- Birmingham Spades 240
- Narrow Spades 242
- English Bottoming Tools 243
- Drawing and Pushing Scoops 244
- Pipe-Layer 244
- Pipe-Laying 245
- Pick-axes 245
- Drain Gauge 246
- Elkington's Auger 246
- Fowler's Drain Plow 247
- Pratt's Ditcher 249
- Paul's Ditcher 250
- Germination __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__
- Land before Drainage and After 286
- Heat in Wet Land 288
- Cracking of Clays 325
- Drainage of Cellar 355
- Drainage of Barn Cellar 359
- Plan of Rand's Drainage 372
- Plan of H. F. French's Drainage 376
CONTENTS.[vii]
- CHAPTER I.
- INTRODUCTORY.
- Why this Treatise does not contain all Knowledge.—Attention of Scientific Men attracted to Drainage.—Lieutenant Maury's Suggestions.—Ralph Waldo Emerson's Views.—Opinions of J. H. Klippart, Esq.; of Professor Mapes; B. P. Johnson, Esq.; Governor Wright, Mr. Custis, &c.—Prejudice against what is English.—Acknowledgements to our Friends at Home and Abroad.—The Wants of our Farmers.
- CHAPTER II.
- HISTORY OF THE ART OF DRAINING.
- Draining as old as the Deluge.—Roman Authors.—Walter Bligh in 1650.—No thorough drainage till Smith, of Deanston.—No mention of Tiles in the "Compleat Body of Husbandry," 1758.—Tiles found 100 years old.—Elkington's System.—Johnstone's Puns and Peripatetics.—Draining Springs.—Bletonism, or the Faculty of Perceiving Subterranean Water.—Deanston System.—Views of Mr. Parkes.—Keythorpe System.—Wharncliffe System.—Introduction of Tiles into America.—John Johnston, and Mr. Delafield, of New York.
- CHAPTER III.
- RAIN, EVAPORATION AND FILTRATION.
- Fertilizing Substances in Rain Water.—Amount of Rain Fall in United States; in England.—Tables of Rain Fall.—Number of Rainy Days, and Quantity of Rain each Month.—Snow, how Computed as Water.—Proportion of Rain Evaporated.—What Quantity of Water Dry Soil will Hold.—Dew Point.—How Evaporation Cools Bodies.—Artificial Heat Underground.—Tables of Filtration and Evaporation.
- CHAPTER IV.[viii]
- DRAINAGE OF HIGH LANDS—WHAT LANDS REQUIRE DRAINAGE.
- What is High Land?—Accidents to Crops from Water.—Do Lands need Drainage in America?—Springs.—Theory of Moisture, with Illustrations.—Water of Pressure.—Legal Rights as to Draining our Neighbor's Wells and Land.—What Lands require Drainage?—Horace Greeley's Opinion.—Drainage more Necessary in America than in England; Indications of too much Moisture.—Will Drainage Pay?
- CHAPTER V.
- VARIOUS METHODS OF DRAINAGE.
- Open Ditches.—Slope of Banks.—Brush Drains.—Ridge and Furrow.—Plug-Draining.—Mole-Draining.—Mole-Plow.—Wedge and Shoulder Drains.—Larch Tubes.—Drains of Fence Rails, and Poles.—Peat Tiles.—Stone Drains Injured by Moles.—Downing's Giraffes.—Illustrations of Various Kinds of Stone Drains.
- CHAPTER VI.
- DRAINAGE WITH TILES.
- What are Drain-Tiles?—Forms of Tiles.—Pipes.—Horse-shoe Tiles.— Sole-Tiles.—Form of Water-Passage.—Collars and their Use.—Size of Pipes.—Velocity.—Friction.—Discharge of Water through Pipes.—Tables of Capacity.—How Water enters Tiles.—Deep Drains run soonest and longest.—Pressure of Water on Pipes.—Durability of Tile Drains.— Drain-Bricks 100 years old.
- CHAPTER VII.
- DIRECTION, DISTANCE AND DEPTH OF DRAINS.
- Drain Directions.—Whence comes the Water?—Inclination of Strata.—Drains across the Slope let Water out as well as Receive it.—Defence against Water from Higher Land.—Open Ditches.—Headers.—Silt-basins.
- Drain Distance.—Depends on Soil, Depth, Climate, Prices, System.—Conclusions as to Distance.
- Drain Depth.—Greatly Increases Cost.—Shallow Drains first tried in England.—10,000 Miles of Shallow Drains laid in Scotland by way of Education.—Drains must be below Subsoil plow, and Frost.—Effect of Frost on Tiles and Aqueducts.
- CHAPTER VIII.[ix]
- ARRANGEMENT OF DRAINS.
- Necessity of System.—What Fall is Necessary.—American Examples.—Outlets.—Wells and Relief-Pipes.—Peep-holes.—How to secure Outlets.—Gate to Exclude Back-Water.—Gratings and Screens to keep out Frogs, Snakes, Moles, &c.—Mains, Submains, and Minors, how placed.—Capacity of Pipes.—Mains of Two Tiles.—Junction of Drains.—Effect of Curves and Angles on Currents.—Branch Pipes.—Draining into Wells or Swallow Holes.—Letter from Mr. Denton.
- CHAPTER IX.
- THE COST OF TILES—TILE MACHINES.
- Prices far too high; Albany prices.—Length of Tiles.—Cost in Suffolk Co., England.—Waller's Machine.—Williams' Machine.—Cost of Tiles compared with Bricks.—Mr. Denton's Estimate of Cost.—Other Estimates.—Two-inch Tiles can be Made as Cheaply as Bricks.—Process of Rolling Tiles.—Tile Machines.—Descriptions of Daines'.—Pratt & Bro.'s.
- CHAPTER X.
- THE COST OF DRAINAGE.
- Draining no more expensive than Fencing.—Engineering.—Guessing not accurate enough.—Slight Fall sufficient.—Instances.—Two Inches to One-Thousand Feet.—Cost of Excavation and Filling.—Narrow Tools required.—Tables of Cubic contents of Drains.—Cost of Drains on our own Farm.—Cost of Tiles.—Weight and Freight of Tiles.—Cost of Outlets.—Cost of Collars.—Smaller Tiles used with Collars.—Number of Tiles to the Acre, with Tables.—Length of Tiles varies.—Number of Rods to the Acre at different Distances.—Final Estimate of Cost.—Comparative Cost of Tile-Drains and Stone-Drains.
- CHAPTER XI.
- DRAINING IMPLEMENTS.
- Unreasonable Expectations about Draining Tools.—Levelling Instruments.—Guessing not Accurate.—Level by a Square.—Spirit Level.—Span, or A Level.—Grading by Lines.—Boning-rod.—Challoner's Drain Level.—Spades and Shovels.—Long-handled Shovel.—Irish Spade, description and cut.—Bottoming Tools.—Narrow Spades.—English Bottoming Tools.—Pipe-layer.—Pipe-laying Illustrated.—Pick-axes.—Drain Gauge.—Drain Plows, and Ditch-Diggers.—Fowler's Drain Plow.—Pratt's Ditch-Digger.—McEwan's Drain Plow.—Routt's Drain Plow.
- CHAPTER XII.[x]
- PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR OPENING DRAINS AND LAYING TILES.
- Begin at the Outlet.—Use of Plows.—Leveling the Bottom.—Where to begin to lay Pipes.—Mode of Procedure.—Covering Pipes.—Securing Joints.—Filling.—Securing Outlets.—Plans.
- CHAPTER XIII.
- EFFECTS OF DRAINAGE UPON THE CONDITION OF THE SOIL.
- Drainage deepens the Soil, and gives the roots a larger pasture.—Cobbett's Lucerne 30 feet deep.—Mechi's Parsnips 13 feet long!—Drainage promotes Pulverization.—Prevents Surface-Washing.—Lengthens the Season.—Prevents Freezing out.—Dispenses with Open Ditches.—Saves 25 per cent. of Labor.—Promotes absorption of Fertilizing Substances from the Air.—Supplies Air to the Roots.—Drains run before Rain; so do some Springs.—Drainage warms the Soil.—Corn sprouts at 55°; Rye on Ice.—Cold from Evaporation.—Heat will not pass downward in Water.—Count Rumford's Experiments with Hot Water on Ice.—Aeration of Soil by Drains.
- CHAPTER XIV.
- DRAINAGE ADAPTS THE SOIL TO GERMINATION AND VEGETATION.
- Process of Germination.—Two Classes of Pores in Soils, illustrated by cuts.—Too much Water excludes Air, reduces Temperature.—How much Air the Soil Contains.—Drainage Improves the Quality of Crops.—Drainage prevents Drought.—Drained Soils hold most Water.—Allow Roots to go Deep.—Various Facts.
- CHAPTER XV.
- TEMPERATURE AS AFFECTED BY DRAINAGE.
- Drainage Warms the Soil in Spring.—Heat cannot go down in Wet Land.—Drainage causes greater Deposit of Dew in Summer.—Dew warms Plants in Night, Cools them in the Morning Sun.—Drainage varies Temperature by Lessening Evaporation.—What is Evaporation.—How it produces Cold.—Drained Land Freezes Deepest, but Thaws Soonest, and the Reasons.
- CHAPTER XVI.[xi]
- POWER OF SOILS TO ABSORB AND RETAIN MOISTURE.
- Why does not Drainage make the Land too Dry?—Adhesive Attraction.—The Finest Soils exert most Attraction.—How much Water different Soils hold by Attraction.—Capillary Attraction, illustrated.—Power to Imbibe Moisture from the Air.—Weight Absorbed by 1,000 lbs. in 12 Hours.—Dew, Cause of.—Dew Point.—Cause of Frost.—Why Covering Plants Protects from Frost.—Dew Imparts Warmth.—Idea that the Moon Promotes Putrefaction.—Quantity of Dew.
- CHAPTER XVII.
- INJURY OF LAND BY DRAINAGE.
- Most Land cannot be Over-drained.—Nature a Deep drainer.—Over-draining of Peaty Soils.—Lincolnshire Fens. Visit to them in 1857.—56 Bushels of Wheat to the Acre.—Wet Meadows Subside by Drainage.—Conclusions.
- CHAPTER XVIII.
- OBSTRUCTION OF DRAINS.
- Tiles will fill up, unless well laid.—Obstruction by Sand or Silt.—Obstructions at the Outlet from Frogs, Moles, Action of Frost, and Cattle.—Obstruction by Roots.—Willow, Ash, &c., Trees capricious.—Roots enter Perennial Streams.—Obstruction by Mangold Wurtzel.—Obstruction by Per-Oxide of Iron.—How Prevented.—Obstructions by the Joints Filling.—- No Danger with Two-Inch Pipes.—Water through the Pores.—Collars.—How to Detect Obstructions.
- CHAPTER XIX.
- DRAINAGE OF STIFF CLAYS.
- Clay not impervious, or it could not be wet and dried.—Puddling, what is.—Water will stand over Drains on Puddled Soil.—Cracking of Clays by Drying.—Drained Clays improve by time.—Passage of Water through Clay makes it permeable.—Experiment by Mr. Pettibone, of Vermont.—Pressure of Water in Saturated Soil.
- CHAPTER XX.
- EFFECTS OF DRAINAGE ON STREAMS AND RIVERS.
- Drainage Hastens the Supply to the Streams, and thus creates Freshets.—Effect of Drainage on Meadows below; on Water Privileges.—Conflict of Manufacturing and Agricultural Interests.—English Opinions and Facts.—Uses of Drainage Water.—Irrigation.—Drainage Water for Stock.—How used by Mr. Mechi.
- CHAPTER XXI.[xii]
- LEGISLATION—DRAINAGE COMPANIES.
- England protects her Farmers.—Meadows ruined by Corporation dams.—Old Mills often Nuisances.—Factory Reservoirs.—Flowage extends above level of Dam.—Rye and Derwent Drainage.—Give Steam for Water-Power.—Right to Drain through land of others.—Right to natural flow of Water.—Laws of Mass.—Right to Flow; why not to Drain?—Land-drainage Companies in England.—Lincolnshire Fens.—Government Loans for Drainage.
- CHAPTER XXII.
- DRAINAGE OF CELLARS.
- Wet Cellars Unhealthful.—Importance of Cellars in New England.—A Glance at the Garret, by way of Contrast.—Necessity of Drains.—Sketch of an Inundated Cellar.—Tiles best for Drains.—Best Plan of Cellar Drain; Illustration.—Cementing will not do.—Drainage of Barn Cellars.—Uses of them.—Actual Drainage of a very Bad Cellar described.—Drains Outside and Inside; Illustration.
- CHAPTER XXIII.
- DRAINAGE OF SWAMPS.
- Vast Extent of Swamp Lands in the United States.—Their Soil.—Sources of their Moisture.—How to Drain them.—The Soil Subsides by Draining.—Catch-water Drains.—Springs.—Mr. Ruffin's Drainage in Virginia.—Is there Danger of Over-draining?
- CHAPTER XXIV.
- AMERICAN EXPERIMENTS IN DRAINAGE—DRAINAGE IN IRELAND.
- Statement of B. F. Nourse, of Maine.—Statement of Shedd and Edson, of Mass.—Statement of H. F. French, of New Hampshire.—Letter of Wm. Boyle, Albert Model Farm, Glasnevin, Ireland.
- INDEX.
FARM DRAINAGE.[13]
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
Why this Treatise does not contain all Knowledge.—Attention of Scientific Men attracted to Drainage.—Lieutenant Maury's Suggestions.—Ralph Waldo Emerson's Views.—Opinions of J. H. Klippart, Esq.; of Professor Mapes; B. P. Johnston, Esq.; Governor Wright, Mr. Custis, &c.—Prejudice against what is English.—Acknowledgements to our Friends at Home and Abroad.—The Wants of our Farmers.
Why this Treatise doesn't cover all Knowledge.—Interest from Scientific People in Drainage.—Lieutenant Maury's Suggestions.—Ralph Waldo Emerson's Opinions.—Views of J. H. Klippart, Esq.; Professor Mapes; B. P. Johnston, Esq.; Governor Wright, Mr. Custis, etc.—Bias against what is English.—Thanks to our Friends at Home and Abroad.—The Needs of our Farmers.
A Book upon Farm Drainage! What can a person find on such a subject to write a book about? A friend suggests, that in order to treat any one subject fully, it is necessary to know everything and speak of everything, because all knowledge is in some measure connected.
A Book on Farm Drainage! What could someone even write about on that topic? A friend suggests that to cover any subject completely, you need to know everything and discuss everything, since all knowledge is somehow related.
With an earnest endeavor to clip the wings of imagination, and to keep not only on the earth, but to burrow, like a mole or a sub-soiler, in it, with a painful apprehension lest some technical term in Chemistry or Philosophy should falsely indicate that we make pretensions to the character of a scientific farmer, or some old phrase of law-Latin should betray that we know something besides agriculture, and so, are not worthy of the confidence of practical men, we have, nevertheless, by some means, got together more than a bookfull of matter upon our subject.[14]
With a sincere effort to limit our imagination and to stay grounded, like a mole digging into the earth, in it, we are painfully aware that using any technical terms from Chemistry or Philosophy might falsely suggest that we pretend to be scientific farmers. Similarly, if we use any old legal jargon, it might imply that we know more than just farming and, therefore, aren't worthy of the trust of practical people. Still, we have somehow gathered more than enough material for a book on our topic.[14]
Our publisher says our book must be so large, and no larger—and we all know that an author is but as a grasshopper in the hands of his publisher, and ought to be very thankful to be allowed to publish his book at all. So we have only to say, that if there is any chapter in this book not sufficiently elaborate, or any subject akin to that of drainage, that ought to have been embraced in our plan and is not, it is because we have not space for further expansion. The reader has our heartfelt sympathy, if it should happen that the very topic which most interests him, is entirely omitted, or imperfectly treated; and we can only advise him to write a book himself, by way of showing proper resentment, and put into it everything that everybody desires most to know.
Our publisher insists our book has to be a specific size, and nothing larger—and we all know that an author is basically at the mercy of their publisher and should be really grateful for the opportunity to publish at all. So all we can say is, if there’s any chapter in this book that doesn't go into enough detail, or any topic related to drainage that we should have included but didn't, it’s simply because we don’t have the room to expand further. We truly sympathize with the reader if the very subject that interests them the most is completely left out or not covered well; all we can suggest is that they write their own book to express their feelings and include everything that everyone really wants to know.
A book that shall contain all that we do not know on the subject of drainage, would be a valuable acquisition to agricultural literature, and we bespeak an early copy of it when published.
A book that contains everything we don't know about drainage would be a valuable addition to agricultural literature, and we request an early copy of it when it’s published.
Irrigation is a subject closely connected with drainage, and, although it would require a volume of equal size with this to lay it properly before the American public, who know so little of water-meadows and liquid-manuring, and even of the artificial application of water to land in any way, we feel called upon for an apology for its omission.
Irrigation is a topic closely related to drainage, and while it would take a book as large as this one to present it properly to the American public, who know very little about water meadows and liquid manuring, and even less about the artificial use of water on land in any form, we feel the need to apologize for not including it.
Lieutenant Maury, whose name does honor to his nation over all the civilized world, and on whom the blessings of every navigator upon the great waters, are constantly showered, in a letter which we had the honor recently to receive from him, thus speaks of this subject:
Lieutenant Maury, whose name brings pride to his country across the entire civilized world, and on whom every navigator on the great waters continually showers blessings, addressed this topic in a letter we recently had the privilege to receive from him:
"I was writing to a friend some months ago upon the subject of drainage in this country, and I am pleased to infer from your letter, that our opinions are somewhat similar. The climate of England is much more moist than this, though the amount of rain in many parts of this country, is much greater than the amount of rain there. It drizzles[15] there more than it does here. Owing to the high dew point in England, but a small portion only—that is, comparatively small—of the rain that falls can be evaporated again; consequently, it remains in the soil until it is drained off. Here, on the other hand, the clouds pour it down, and the sun sucks it up right away, so that the perfection of drainage for this country would be the very reverse, almost, of the drainage in England. If, instead of leading the water off into the water-veins and streams of the country, as is there done, we could collect it in pools on the farm, so as to be used in time of drought for irrigation, then your system of drainage would be worth untold wealth. Of course, in low grounds, and all places where the atmosphere does not afford sufficient drainage by evaporation, the English plan will do very well, and much good may be done by a treatise which shall enable owners to reclaim or improve such places."
"I was writing to a friend a few months ago about the topic of drainage in this country, and I'm glad to see from your letter that our views are somewhat similar. The climate in England is much wetter than here, although the amount of rain in many areas of this country is actually greater than what falls there. It drizzles[15] more often in England than it does here. Because of the high humidity in England, only a small part of the rain that falls can evaporate; as a result, it stays in the soil until it’s drained away. Here, however, the clouds dump a lot of rain, and the sun quickly dries it up, so the ideal drainage solution for this country would almost be the opposite of what works in England. If, instead of directing the water into the waterways and streams like they do there, we could gather it in ponds on the farm to use during dry spells for irrigation, then your drainage approach would be incredibly valuable. Of course, in low areas and anywhere where the atmosphere doesn't provide enough evaporation for drainage, the English method would work well, and a guide that helps landowners improve or reclaim such areas could be very beneficial."
Indeed, the importance of this subject of drainage, seems all at once to have found universal acknowledgement throughout our country, not only from agriculturists, but from philosophers and men of general science.
Indeed, the significance of the topic of drainage appears to have gained widespread recognition across our country, not just from farmers, but also from thinkers and scientists in various fields.
Emerson, whose eagle glance, piercing beyond the sight of other men, recognizes in so-called accidental heroes the "Representative men" of the ages, and in what to others seem but caprices and conventionalisms, the "Traits" of a nation, yet never overlooks the practical and every-day wants of man, in a recent address at Concord, Mass., the place of his residence, thus characteristically alludes to our subject:
Emerson, with his keen insight that sees further than most people, identifies in so-called accidental heroes the "Representative men" of their times, and in what others perceive as mere whims and conventions, the "Traits" of a nation, while never ignoring the practical and everyday needs of people. In a recent speech in Concord, Mass., where he lives, he makes a notable reference to our topic:
"Concord is one of the oldest towns in the country—far on now in its third century. The Select-men have once in five years perambulated its bounds, and yet, in this year, a very large quantity of land has been discovered and added to the agricultural land, and without a murmur of complaint from any neighbor. By drainage,[16] we have gone to the subsoil, and we have a Concord under Concord, a Middlesex under Middlesex, and a basement-story of Massachusetts more valuable than all the superstructure. Tiles are political economists. They are so many Young-Americans announcing a better era, and a day of fat things."
"Concord is one of the oldest towns in the country, now well into its third century. The Selectmen have walked its borders every five years, and yet this year, a significant amount of land has been discovered and added to the agricultural area, without any complaints from neighbors. Through drainage,[16] we've tapped into the subsoil, uncovering a Concord beneath Concord, a Middlesex beneath Middlesex, and a foundation of Massachusetts that's worth more than everything above it. Tiles are political economists. They represent many Young-Americans heralding a new era and a time of abundance."
John H. Klippart, Esq., the learned Secretary of the Ohio Board of Agriculture, expresses his opinion upon the importance of our subject in his own State, in this emphatic language:
John H. Klippart, Esq., the knowledgeable Secretary of the Ohio Board of Agriculture, shares his thoughts on the significance of our topic in his own state with this strong statement:
"The agriculture of Ohio can make no farther marked progress until a good system of under-drainage has been adopted."
"The agriculture of Ohio can't make significant progress until a proper system of under-drainage is put in place."
A writer in the Country Gentleman, from Ashtabula County, Ohio, says:—"One of two things must be done by us here. Clay predominates in our soil, and we must under-drain our land, or sell and move west."
A writer in the Country Gentleman, from Ashtabula County, Ohio, says:—"We have to make a choice here. Our soil is mostly clay, and we either need to install drainage systems or sell and move out west."
Professor Mapes, of New York, under date of January 17, 1859, says of under-draining:
Professor Mapes, from New York, on January 17, 1859, discusses under-draining:
"I do not believe that farming can be pursued with full profit without it. It would seem to be no longer a question. The experience of England, in the absence of all other proof, would be sufficient to show that capital may be invested more safely in under-draining, than in any other way; for, after the expenditure of many millions by English farmers in this way, it has been clearly proved that their increased profit, arising from this cause alone, is sufficient to pay the total expense in full, with interest, within twenty years, thus leaving their farms increased permanently to the amount of the total cost, while the income is augmented in a still greater ratio. It is quite doubtful whether England could at this time sustain her increased population, if it were not for her system of thorough-drainage. In my own practice, the result has been such as to convince me of its advantages, and I[17] should be unwilling to enter into any new cultivation without thorough drainage."
"I don't think farming can be done profitably without it. It seems there's no longer any debate. The experience in England, without needing any other evidence, shows that investing in under-draining is safer than any other option. After spending millions on this, English farmers have clearly demonstrated that the increased profits from this alone can cover the total expenses, including interest, within twenty years. This leaves their farms permanently enhanced by the total cost while also significantly boosting their income. It's quite uncertain whether England could support its larger population right now without its thorough-drainage system. In my own experience, the results have convinced me of its benefits, and I would be reluctant to engage in any new farming practices without thorough drainage."
B. P. Johnson, Secretary of the New York Board of Agriculture, in answer to some inquiries upon the subject of drainage with tiles, writes us, under date of December, 1858, as follows:
B. P. Johnson, Secretary of the New York Board of Agriculture, in response to some questions about tile drainage, wrote to us on December, 1858, as follows:
"I have given much time and attention to the subject of drainage, having deemed it all-important to the improvement of the farms of our State. I am well satisfied, from a careful examination in England, as well as from my observation in this country, that tiles are far preferable to any other material that I know of for drains, and this is the opinion of all those who have engaged extensively in the work in this State, so far as I have information. It is gratifying to be assured, that during the year past, there has been probably more land-draining than during any previous year, showing the deep interest which is taken in this all-important work, so indispensable to the success of the farmer."
"I have spent a lot of time and energy on the topic of drainage because I believe it's crucial for improving our state's farms. From my careful studies in England and my observations here, I’m confident that tiles are much better than any other materials I know for drainage. This seems to be the general consensus among those who have worked extensively in this area in our state, based on what I’ve found out. It's encouraging to see that over the past year, there has likely been more land drainage done than in any previous year, reflecting the strong interest in this vital work that is so essential for a farmer's success."
It is ascertained, by inquiry at the Land Office, that more than 52,000,000 acres of swamp and overflowed lands have been selected under the Acts of March 2d, 1849, and September 28th, 1850, from the dates of those grants to September, 1856; and it is estimated that, when the grants shall have been entirely adjusted, they will amount to 60,000,000 acres.
It has been confirmed through inquiries at the Land Office that over 52,000,000 acres of swamp and flooded lands have been selected under the Acts of March 2, 1849, and September 28, 1850, from the time those grants were issued up until September 1856; and it is estimated that when all the grants are fully finalized, they will total 60,000,000 acres.
Grants of these lands have been made by Congress, from the public domain, gratuitously, to the States in which they lie, upon the idea that they were not only worthless to the Government, but dangerous to the health of the neighboring inhabitants, with the hope that the State governments might take measures to reclaim them for cultivation, or, at least, render them harmless, by the removal of their surplus water.
Grants of these lands have been made by Congress, from the public domain, for free, to the States where they are located, based on the idea that they were not only useless to the Government, but also a threat to the health of nearby residents. The hope was that the State governments would take action to restore them for farming or, at the very least, make them safe by getting rid of the excess water.
Governor Wright, of Indiana, in a public address,[18] estimated the marshy lands of that State at 3,000,000 acres. "These lands," he says, "were generally avoided by early settlers, as being comparatively worthless; but, when drained, they become eminently fertile." He further says: "I know a farm of 160 acres, which was sold five years ago for $500, that by an expenditure of less than $200, in draining and ditching, has been so improved, that the owner has refused for it an offer of $3,000."
Governor Wright of Indiana, in a public address,[18] estimated the marshy lands of the state at 3,000,000 acres. "These lands," he says, "were typically avoided by early settlers because they seemed pretty worthless; however, once drained, they become extremely fertile." He adds, "I know of a 160-acre farm that sold five years ago for $500, and after spending less than $200 on draining and ditching, it has been improved so much that the owner turned down an offer of $3,000."
At the meeting of the United States Agricultural Society, at Washington, in January, 1857, Mr. G. W. P. Custis spoke in connection with the great importance of this subject, of the vast quantity of soil—the richest conceivable—now lying waste, to the extent of 100,000 acres, along the banks of the Lower Potomac, and which he denominates by the old Virginia title of pocoson. The fertility of this reclaimable swamp he reports to be astonishing; and he has corroborated the opinion by experiments which confounded every beholder. "These lands on our time-honored river," he says, "if brought into use, would supply provisions at half the present cost, and would in other respects prove of the greatest advantage."
At the meeting of the United States Agricultural Society in Washington, in January 1857, Mr. G. W. P. Custis spoke about the great importance of this topic, highlighting the vast amount of soil—the richest imaginable—that is currently unused, covering 100,000 acres along the banks of the Lower Potomac, which he refers to by the old Virginia name pocoson. He notes that the fertility of this reclaimable swamp is extraordinary, and he has backed up this view with experiments that amazed everyone who witnessed them. "These lands on our historic river," he says, "if utilized, could provide food at half the current cost, and would be extremely beneficial in other ways."
The drainage of highways and walks, was noted as a topic kindred to our subject, although belonging more properly perhaps, to the drainage of towns and to landscape-gardening, than to farm drainage. This, too, was found to be beyond the scope of our proposed treatise, and has been left to some abler hand.
The drainage of highways and pathways was recognized as a topic related to our subject, although it might be more accurately associated with urban drainage and landscaping than with agricultural drainage. This too was determined to be outside the scope of our planned discussion, and has been left to someone more qualified.
So, too, the whole subject of reclaiming lands from the sea, and from rivers, by embankment, and the drainage of lakes and ponds, which at a future day must attract great attention in this country, has proved quite too extensive to be treated here. The day will soon come, when on our Atlantic coast, the ocean waves will be stayed, and all along our great rivers, the Spring floods, and the[19] Summer freshets, will be held within artificial barriers, and the enclosed lands be kept dry by engines propelled by steam, or some more efficient or economical agent.
So too, the entire topic of reclaiming land from the sea and rivers through embankments, as well as draining lakes and ponds, which will eventually become a major focus in this country, has proven to be too vast to cover here. The day will come soon when, along our Atlantic coast, the ocean waves will be held back, and along our major rivers, the spring floods and summer downpours will be contained within artificial barriers, keeping the enclosed land dry with engines powered by steam or some more efficient and cost-effective solution.
The half million acres of fen-land in Lincolnshire, producing the heaviest wheat crops in England; and Harlaem Lake, in Holland, with its 40,000 acres of fertile land, far below the tides, and once covered with many feet of water, are examples of what science and well-directed labor may accomplish. But this department of drainage demands the skill of scientific engineers, and the employment of combined capital and effort, beyond the means of American farmers; and had we ability to treat it properly, would afford matter rather of pleasing speculation, than of practical utility to agricultural readers.
The half million acres of marshland in Lincolnshire produce the heaviest wheat crops in England, and Harlaem Lake in Holland, with its 40,000 acres of fertile land far below sea level and once submerged under many feet of water, showcases what science and effective labor can achieve. However, this area of drainage requires the expertise of skilled engineers and the use of combined capital and effort, which are beyond the resources of American farmers. If we had the ability to handle it properly, it would be more of an interesting idea than something practically useful for farmers.
With a reckless expenditure of paper and ink, we had already prepared chapters upon several topics, which, though not essential to farm-drainage, were as near to our subject as the minister usually is limited in preaching, or the lawyer in argument; but conformity to the Procrustean bed, in whose sheets we had in advance stipulated to sleep, cost us the amputation of a few of our least important heads.
With a careless use of paper and ink, we had already put together chapters on several topics that, while not crucial to farm drainage, were as close to our subject as ministers typically are in their sermons or lawyers in their arguments. However, sticking to the strict guidelines we had agreed to in advance required us to cut out a few of our least important ideas.
"Don't be too English," suggests a very wise and politic friend. We are fully aware of the prejudice which still exists in many minds in our country, against what is peculiarly English. Because, forsooth, our good Mother England, towards a century ago, like most fond mothers, thought her transatlantic daughter quite too young and inexperienced to set up an establishment and manage it for herself, and drove her into wasteful experiments of wholesale tea-making in Boston harbor, by way of illustrating her capacity of entertaining company from beyond seas; and because, near half a century ago, we had some sharp words, spoken not through the mouths of prophets and sages, but through the mouths of great guns, touching[20] the right of our venerated parent to examine the internal economy of our merchant-ships on the sea—because of reminiscences like these, we are to forswear all that is English! And so we may claim no kindred in literature with Shakspeare and Milton, in jurisprudence, with Bacon and Mansfield, in statesmanship, with Pitt and Fox!
"Don't be too British," advises a very wise and diplomatic friend. We know there’s still bias in many people’s minds in our country against what is distinctly British. About a century ago, our dear Mother England, like most loving mothers, thought her transatlantic daughter was too young and inexperienced to run her own household, leading her into unnecessary experiments with large-scale tea-making in Boston harbor to demonstrate her ability to host guests from overseas; and because nearly fifty years ago, we exchanged some harsh words—not from prophets and sages, but from powerful cannons—about our respected parent’s right to inspect the internal operations of our merchant ships at sea—because of memories like these, we are supposed to reject everything British! So, we should also renounce any connection in literature with Shakespeare and Milton, in law with Bacon and Mansfield, and in politics with Pitt and Fox!
Whence came the spirit of independence, the fearless love of liberty of which we boast, but from our English blood? Whence came our love of territorial extension, our national ambition, exhibited under the affectionate name of annexation? Does not this velvet paw with which we softly play with our neighbors' heads, conceal some long, crooked talons, which tell of the ancestral blood of the British Lion?
Where did our spirit of independence and fearless love of freedom come from, if not from our English heritage? Where did our desire for territorial expansion and national ambition, affectionately referred to as annexation, originate? Doesn’t this gentle approach we take with our neighbors hide some long, sharp claws that reveal our ancestral ties to the British Lion?
The legislature of a New England State, not many years ago, appointed a committee to revise its statutes. This committee had a pious horror of all dead languages, and a patriotic fear of paying too high a compliment to England, and so reported that all proceedings in courts of law should be in the American language! An inquiry by a waggish member, whether the committee intended to allow proceedings to be in any one of the three hundred Indian dialects, restored to the English language its appropriate name.
The legislature of a New England state, not long ago, set up a committee to update its laws. This committee had a strong dislike for all dead languages and a patriotic worry about giving too much credit to England, so they suggested that all legal proceedings should be conducted in American English! A jokester on the committee asked whether they planned to allow proceedings in any of the three hundred Native American dialects, which reminded everyone of the proper name for the English language.
Though from some of our national traits, we might possibly be supposed to have sprung from the sowing of the dragon's teeth by Cadmus, yet the uniform record of all American families which goes back to the "three brothers who came over from England," contradicts this theory, and connects us by blood and lineage with that country.
Though some of our national traits might lead one to believe that we emerged from the sowing of the dragon's teeth by Cadmus, the consistent history of all American families tracing back to the "three brothers who came over from England" contradicts this theory and ties us by blood and lineage to that country.
Indeed, we can hardly consent to sell our birthright for so poor a mess of pottage as this petty jealousy offers. A teachable spirit in matters of which we are ignorant, is usually as profitable and respectable as abundant self-conceit,[21] and rendering to Cæsar the things that are Cæsar's, quite as honest as to pocket the coin as our own, notwithstanding the "image and superscription."
We can barely agree to trade our heritage for such a meager dish as this petty jealousy presents. Being open-minded about things we don't know is often just as rewarding and respectable as having excessive self-confidence,[21] and giving to Cæsar what belongs to Cæsar is just as honest as keeping the money for ourselves, even if it has his "image and inscription."
We make frequent reference to English writers and to English opinions upon our subject, because drainage is understood and practiced better in England than anywhere else in the world, and because by personal inspection of drainage-works there, and personal acquaintance and correspondence with some of the most successful drainers in that country, we feel some confidence of ability to apply English principles to American soil and climate.
We often refer to English writers and opinions on our topic because drainage is better understood and practiced in England than anywhere else in the world. Due to our personal inspections of drainage works there and our correspondence with some of the most successful drainers in that country, we feel confident in our ability to apply English principles to American soil and climate.
To J. Bailey Denton, Engineer of the General Land Drainage Company, and one of the most distinguished practical and scientific drainers in England, we wish publicly to acknowledge our obligations for personal favors shown us in the preparation of our work.
To J. Bailey Denton, Engineer of the General Land Drainage Company, and one of the most distinguished practical and scientific drainers in England, we want to publicly acknowledge our gratitude for the personal support he provided us in preparing our work.
We claim no great praise of originality in what is here offered to the public. Wherever we have found a person of whom we could learn anything, in this or other countries, we have endeavored to profit by his teachings, and whenever the language of another, in book or journal, has been found to express forcibly an idea which we deemed worthy of adoption, we have given full credit for both thought and words.
We don’t take credit for any original ideas in what we’re presenting to the public. Whenever we’ve encountered someone from whom we could learn something, whether here or abroad, we’ve tried to benefit from their insights. If we’ve found that another writer, in books or articles, has articulated an idea that we felt was valuable, we’ve made sure to give them full credit for both their thoughts and their language.
Our friends, Messrs. Shedd and Edson, of Boston, whose experience as draining engineers entitles them to a high rank among American authorities, have been in constant communication with us, throughout our labors. The chapter upon Evaporation, Rain fall, &c., which we deem of great value as a contribution to science in general, will be seen to be in part credited to them, as are also the tables showing the discharge of water through pipes of various capacity.
Our friends, Messrs. Shedd and Edson, from Boston, who are highly regarded as drainage engineers, have been in regular contact with us during our work. The chapter on Evaporation, Rainfall, etc., which we believe is a valuable addition to science, will partially credit them, as will the tables that display the flow of water through pipes of different sizes.
Drainage is a new subject in America, not well understood,[22] and we have no man, it is believed, peculiarly fitted to teach its theory and practice; yet the farmers everywhere are awake to its importance, and are eagerly seeking for information on the subject. Many are already engaged in the endeavor to drain their lands, conscious of their want of the requisite knowledge to effect their object in a profitable manner, while others are going resolutely forward, in violation of all correct principles, wasting their labor, unconscious even of their ignorance.
Drainage is a relatively new topic in America, not very well understood,[22] and there seems to be no one particularly qualified to teach its theory and practice. Still, farmers everywhere recognize its importance and are actively seeking information on the subject. Many are already trying to drain their land, aware that they lack the necessary knowledge to do it profitably, while others are moving ahead without following proper principles, wasting their efforts without realizing their lack of understanding.
In New England, we have determined to dry the springy hill sides, and so lengthen our seasons for labor; we have found, too, in the valleys and swamps, the soil which has been washed from our mountains, and intend to avail ourselves of its fertility in the best manner practicable. On the prairies of the great West, large tracts are found just a little too wet for the best crops of corn and wheat, and the inquiry is anxiously made, how can we be rid of this surplus water.
In New England, we have decided to dry out the springy hillsides to extend our working seasons; we've also discovered that the soil in the valleys and swamps, washed down from our mountains, can be made the most of for its fertility. In the prairies of the great West, there are large areas that are just a bit too wet for optimal corn and wheat crops, and people are eagerly asking how we can get rid of this excess water.
There is no treatise, English or American, which meets the wants of our people. In England, it is true, land drainage is already reduced to a science; but their system has grown up by degrees, the first principles being now too familiar to be at all discussed, and the points now in controversy there, quite beyond the comprehension of beginners. America wants a treatise which shall be elementary, as well as thorough—that shall teach the alphabet, as well as the transcendentalism, of draining land—that shall tell the man who never saw a drain-tile what thorough drainage is, and shall also suggest to those who have studied the subject in English books only, the differences in climate and soil, in the prices of labor and of products, which must modify our operations.
There isn't a guide, either English or American, that meets the needs of our people. In England, it's true that land drainage has already become a science; however, their methods have developed gradually, and the basic principles are now so familiar that they aren't really discussed anymore. The current debates there are far beyond the understanding of beginners. America needs a guide that is both basic and comprehensive—that teaches the fundamentals as well as the advanced concepts of land drainage—that explains what thorough drainage means to someone who has never seen a drain tile, and also offers insights to those who have only studied the topic through English books, taking into account the differences in climate and soil, as well as labor and product costs, that will affect our practices.
With some practical experience on his own land, with careful observation in Europe and in America of the details of drainage operations, with a somewhat critical[23] examination of published books and papers on all topics connected with the general subject, the author has endeavored to turn the leisure hours of a laborious professional life to some account for the farmer. Although, as the lawyers say, the "presumptions" are, perhaps, strongly against the idea, yet a professional man may understand practical farming. The profession of the law has made some valuable contributions to agricultural literature. Sir Anthony Fitzherbert, author of the "Boke of Husbandrie," published in 1523, was Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and, as he says, an "experyenced farmer of more than 40 years." The author of that charming little book, "Talpa," it is said, is also a lawyer, and there is such wisdom in the idea, so well expressed by Emerson as a fact, that we commend it by way of consolation to men of all the learned professions: "All of us keep the farm in reserve, as an asylum where to hide our poverty and our solitude, if we do not succeed in society."
With some hands-on experience on his own land, careful observation of drainage operations in Europe and America, and a somewhat critical[23] review of published books and papers on related topics, the author has tried to make use of his free time in a busy professional life to benefit farmers. Although, as lawyers might say, the "presumptions" may be largely against the idea, a professional can
Besides the prejudice against what is foreign, we meet everywhere the prejudice against what is new, though far less in this country than in England. "No longer ago than 1835," says the Quarterly Review, "Sir Robert Peel presented a Farmers' Club, at Tamworth, with two iron plows of the best construction. On his next visit, the old plows, with the wooden mould-boards, were again at work. 'Sir,' said a member of the club, 'we tried the iron, and we be all of one mind, that they make the weeds grow!'"
Besides the bias against anything foreign, we also encounter a bias against anything new, although it's not as strong in this country as it is in England. "Not too long ago, in 1835," says the Quarterly Review, "Sir Robert Peel presented a Farmers' Club at Tamworth with two iron plows of top quality. When he visited again, the old plows with wooden moldboards were back in use. 'Sir,' said a member of the club, 'we tried the iron, and we all agree they make the weeds grow!'"
American farmers have no such ignorant prejudice as this. They err rather by having too much faith in themselves, than by having too little in the idea of progress, and will be more likely to "go ahead" in the wrong direction, than to remain quiet in their old position.
American farmers don’t have this kind of ignorant bias. They are more likely to overestimate themselves than to underestimate the idea of progress, and they're more likely to "move forward" in the wrong direction than to stay stagnant in their old ways.
CHAPTER II.[24]
HISTORY OF THE ART OF DRAINING.
Draining as Old as the Deluge.—Roman Authors.—Walter Bligh in 1650.—No thorough drainage till Smith of Deanston.—No mention of tiles in the "Compleat Body of Husbandry," 1758.—Tiles found 100 years old.—Elkington's System.—Johnstone's Puns and Peripatetics.—Draining Springs.—Bletonism, or the Faculty of Perceiving Subterranean Water.—Deanston System.—Views of Mr. Parkes.—Keythorpe System.—Wharncliffe System.—Introduction of tiles into America.—John Johnston, and Mr. Delafield, of New York.
Draining as Old as the Flood.—Roman Writers.—Walter Bligh in 1650.—No proper drainage until Smith of Deanston.—No mention of tiles in the "Complete Body of Farming," 1758.—Tiles found that are 100 years old.—Elkington's Method.—Johnstone's Puns and Philosophers.—Draining Springs.—Bletonism, or the Ability to Detect Underground Water.—Deanston Method.—Views of Mr. Parkes.—Keythorpe Method.—Wharncliffe Method.—Introduction of tiles to America.—John Johnston and Mr. Delafield, of New York.
The art of removing superfluous water from land, must be as ancient as the art of cultivation; and from the time when Noah and his family anxiously watched the subsiding of the waters into their appropriate channels, to the present, men must have felt the ill effects of too much water, and adopted means more or less effective, to remove it.
The practice of draining excess water from land must be as old as farming itself. Ever since Noah and his family nervously observed the waters receding into their rightful channels, people have experienced the negative impacts of too much water and have used various methods, some more effective than others, to get rid of it.
The Roman writers upon agriculture, Cato, Columella, and Pliny, all mention draining, and some of them give minute directions for forming drains with stones, branches of trees, and straw. Palladius, in his De Aquæ Ductibus, mentions earthen-ware tubes, used however for aqueducts, rather for conveying water from place to place, than for draining lands for agriculture.
The Roman writers on agriculture, Cato, Columella, and Pliny, all talk about drainage, and some of them provide detailed instructions for creating drains using stones, tree branches, and straw. Palladius, in his De Aquæ Ductibus, mentions clay pipes, which are mainly used for aqueducts to transport water from one place to another rather than for draining agricultural land.
Nothing, however, like the systematic drainage of the present day, seems to have been conceived of in England, until about 1650, when Captain Walter Bligh published a work, which is interesting, as embodying and boldly[25] advocating the theory of deep-drainage as applied by him to water-meadows and swamps, and as applicable to the drainage of all other moist lands.
Nothing, however, like the systematic drainage we have today seems to have been imagined in England until around 1650, when Captain Walter Bligh published a work that is notable for presenting and boldly[25] advocating the theory of deep drainage, which he applied to water meadows and swamps, and which is relevant to the drainage of all other wet lands.
We give from the 7th volume of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, in the language of that eminent advocate of deep-drainage, Josiah Parkes, an account of this rare book, and of the principles which it advocates, as a fitting introduction to the more modern and more perfect system of thorough drainage:
We provide an excerpt from the 7th volume of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, featuring the insights of the renowned supporter of deep drainage, Josiah Parkes. This account discusses this exceptional book and the principles it supports, serving as a suitable introduction to the more contemporary and refined system of thorough drainage:
"The author of this work was a Captain Walter Bligh, signing himself, 'A Lover of Ingenuity.' It is quaintly entitled, 'The English Improver Improved; or, the Survey of Husbandry Surveyed;' with several prefaces, but specially addressed to 'The Right Honorable the Lord General Cromwell, and the Right Honorable the Lord President, and the rest of the Honorable Society of the Council of State.' In his instructions for forming the flooding and draining trenches of water-meadows, the author says of the latter:—'And for thy drayning-trench, it must be made so deep, that it goe to the bottom of the cold spewing moyst water, that feeds the flagg and the rush; for the widenesse of it, use thine own liberty, but be sure to make it so wide as thou mayest goe to the bottom of it, which must be so low as any moysture lyeth, which moysture usually lyeth under the over and second swarth of the earth, in some gravel or sand, or else, where some greater stones are mixt with clay, under which thou must goe half one spade's graft deep at least. Yea, suppose this corruption that feeds and nourisheth the rush or flagg, should lie a yard or four-foot deepe; to the bottom of it thou must goe, if ever thou wilt drayn it to purpose, or make the utmost advantage of either floating or drayning, without which the water cannot have its kindly operation; for though the water fatten naturally, yet still this coldnesse and moysture lies gnawing within, and not being taken clean away, it eates out what the water fattens; and so the goodnesse of the water is, as it were, riddled, screened, and strained out into the land, leaving the richnesse and the leanesse sliding away from it.' In another place, he replies to the objectors of floating, that it will breed the rush, the flagg, and mare-blab; 'only make thy drayning-trenches deep enough, and not too far off thy floating course, and I'le warrant it they drayn away that under-moysture, fylth, and venom as aforesaid, that maintains them; and then believe me, or deny Scripture, which I hope thou doust not, as[26] Bildad said unto Job, "Can the rush grow without mire, or the flagg without water?" Job viii. 12. That interrogation plainly showes that the rush cannot grow, the water being taken from the root; for it is not the moystnesse upon the surface of the land, for then every shower should increase the rush, but it is that which lieth at the root, which, drayned away at the bottom, leaves it naked and barren of relief.'
"The author of this work was Captain Walter Bligh, referring to himself as 'A Lover of Ingenuity.' It is charmingly titled, 'The English Improver Improved; or, the Survey of Husbandry Surveyed;' with several prefaces, but primarily directed to 'The Right Honorable the Lord General Cromwell, and the Right Honorable the Lord President, and the rest of the Honorable Society of the Council of State.' In his guidelines for creating the flooding and draining trenches of water meadows, the author states about the latter:—'For your draining trench, it must be deep enough to reach the bottom of the cold, seeping moisture that feeds the flags and the rush; as for its width, use your discretion, but ensure it’s wide enough for you to reach the bottom, which should be as low as the moisture lies. This moisture typically lies beneath the top and second layers of soil, in some gravel or sand, or where larger stones are mixed with clay, and you must dig at least half a spade’s depth under this. Yes, suppose this organic matter that nourishes the rush or flag should lie a yard or four feet deep; you must reach the bottom if you want to drain it effectively or maximize both floating and draining, without which the water cannot operate as it should. For though the water naturally fattens the land, this coldness and moisture persistently linger, and if not completely removed, it undermines what the water enriches. As a result, the goodness of the water, as it were, gets riddled, screened, and strained out into the land, leaving richness and leaness to slip away. In another section, he addresses the critics of flooding, who argue that it will encourage the rush, the flag, and mare-blab; 'just make your draining trenches deep enough, and not too far from your floating course, and I assure you, they will drain away that underlying moisture, filth, and toxins as mentioned before, which sustain them; and then believe me, or deny Scripture, which I hope you do not, as Bildad said to Job, "Can the rush grow without mire, or the flag without water?" Job viii. 12. That question clearly shows that the rush cannot grow if the water is taken away from the root; for it’s not the moisture on the surface of the land, otherwise every rainfall would increase the rush, but it’s what lies at the root, which, when drained away from the bottom, leaves it bare and without support.'
"The author frequently returns to this charge, explaining over and over again the necessity of removing what we call bottom-water, and which he well designates as 'filth and venom.'
"The author keeps going back to this point, explaining repeatedly the importance of getting rid of what we refer to as bottom-water, which he aptly calls 'filth and venom.'"
"In the course of my operations as a drainer, I have met with, or heard of, so many instances of swamp-drainage, executed precisely according to the plans of this author, and sometimes in a superior manner—the conduits being formed of walling stone, at a period long antecedent to the memory of the living—that I am disposed to consider the practice of deep drainage to have originated with Captain Bligh, and to have been preserved by imitators in various parts of the country; since a book, which passed through three editions in the time of the Commonwealth, must necessarily have had an extensive circulation, and enjoyed a high renown. Several complimentary autograph verses, written by some imitators and admirers of the ingenious Bligh, are bound up with the volume. I find also, not unfrequently, very ancient deep drains in arable fields, and some of them still in good condition; and in a case or two, I have met with several ancient drains six feet deep, placed parallel with each other, but at so great a distance asunder, as not to have commanded a perfect drainage of the intermediate space. The author from whom I have so largely quoted, is the earliest known to me, who has had the sagacity to distinguish between the transient effect of rain, and the constant action of stagnant bottom-water in maintaining land in a wet condition."
"During my work as a drainer, I've encountered or heard about many instances of swamp drainage that were done exactly according to this author's plans, and sometimes even better—using walling stone for the conduits long before anyone alive today can remember. Because of this, I believe that the practice of deep drainage started with Captain Bligh and was continued by others in various areas. A book that went through three editions during the Commonwealth certainly had a wide readership and enjoyed a great reputation. There are also several complimentary verses written by some fans and imitators of the clever Bligh included in the volume. I often find very old deep drains in farm fields, and some are still in good shape; in a couple of cases, I've even come across several ancient drains six feet deep, running parallel to each other but spaced so far apart that they didn’t effectively drain the area in between. The author I have quoted extensively is the earliest I know of who had the insight to differentiate between the temporary effect of rain and the ongoing impact of stagnant groundwater in keeping land wet."
Dr. Shier, editor of "Davy's Agricultural Chemistry," says, "The history of drainage in Britain may be briefly told. Till the time of Smith, of Deanston, draining was generally regarded as the means of freeing the land from springs, oozes, and under-water, and it was applied only to lands palpably wet, and producing rushes and other aquatic plants."
Dr. Shier, editor of "Davy's Agricultural Chemistry," says, "The history of drainage in Britain can be summed up briefly. Until Smith of Deanston, draining was mostly seen as a way to get rid of springs, wet spots, and standing water, and it was only used on lands that were obviously wet and grew rushes and other water plants."
He then proceeds to give the principles of Elkington, Smith, Parkes, and other modern writers, of which we shall speak more at large.[27]
He then goes on to explain the principles of Elkington, Smith, Parkes, and other contemporary writers, which we will discuss in more detail later.[27]
The work published in England, not far from Captain Bligh's time, under the title "A Complete Body of Husbandry," undertakes to give directions for all sorts of farming processes. A Second Edition, in four octavo volumes, of which we have a copy, was published in 1758. It professes to treat of "Draining in General," and then of the draining of boggy land and of fens, but gives no intimation that any other lands require drainage.
The book published in England, not long after Captain Bligh's time, titled "A Complete Body of Husbandry," aims to provide guidance on all kinds of farming practices. A second edition, in four octavo volumes, of which we have a copy, was released in 1758. It claims to cover "Draining in General," and then focuses on draining marshy land and fens, but it doesn't suggest that any other types of land need drainage.
Directions are given for filling drains with "rough stones," to be covered with refuse wood, and over that, some of the earth that was thrown out in digging. "By this means," says the writer, "a passage will be left free for all the water the springs yield, and there will be none of these great openings upon the surface."
Directions are provided for filling drains with "rough stones," then covering them with leftover wood, and finally, topping it with some of the soil that was dug up. "This way," the author states, "a pathway will be left open for all the water that the springs produce, and there won't be any large openings on the surface."
He thus describes a method practiced in Oxfordshire of draining with bushes:
He describes a method used in Oxfordshire for draining with bushes:
"Let the trenches be cut deeper than otherwise, suppose three foot deep, and two foot over. As soon as they are made, let the bottoms of them be covered with fresh-cut blackthorn bushes. Upon these, throw in a quantity of large refuse stones; over these let there be another covering of straw, and upon this, some of the earth, so as to make the surface level with the rest. These trenches will always keep open."
"Dig the trenches deeper than usual, say three feet deep and two feet wide. Once they're done, cover the bottoms with freshly cut blackthorn bushes. On top of that, add a bunch of large leftover stones; then add another layer of straw, and on top of that, some dirt to keep the surface level with the surrounding ground. These trenches will stay open forever."
No mention whatever is made in this elaborate treatise of tiles of any kind, which affords very strong evidence that they were not in use for drainage at that time. In a note, however, to Stephen's "Draining and Irrigation," we find the following statement and opinion:
No mention is made in this detailed treatise of tiles of any kind, which provides strong evidence that they were not used for drainage at that time. However, in a note to Stephen's "Draining and Irrigation," we find the following statement and opinion:
"In draining the park at Grimsthorpe, Lincolnshire, about three years ago, some drains, made with tiles, were found eight feet below the surface of the ground. The tiles were similar to what are now used, and in as good a state of preservation as when first laid, although they must have remained there above one hundred years."
"In draining the park at Grimsthorpe, Lincolnshire, about three years ago, some drainage tiles were discovered eight feet below the ground's surface. The tiles were similar to those used today and were in as good condition as when they were first installed, despite having been there for over a hundred years."
ELKINGTON'S SYSTEM OF DRAINAGE.
It appears, that, in 1795, the British Parliament, at the request of the Board of Agriculture, voted to Joseph[28] Elkington a reward of £1000, for his valuable discoveries in the drainage of land. Joseph Elkington was a Warwickshire farmer, and Mr. Gisborne says he was a man of considerable genius, but he had the misfortune to be illiterate. His discovery had created such a sensation in the agricultural world, that it was thought important to record its details; and, as Elkington's health was extremely precarious, the Board resolved to send Mr. John Johnstone to visit, in company with him, his principal works of drainage, and to transmit to posterity the benefits of his knowledge.
It seems that in 1795, the British Parliament, at the request of the Board of Agriculture, awarded Joseph[28] Elkington £1000 for his significant discoveries in land drainage. Joseph Elkington was a farmer from Warwickshire, and Mr. Gisborne noted that he was a man of considerable talent, though unfortunately, he was illiterate. His discovery had made a huge impact in the agricultural community, so it was deemed important to document its details; since Elkington's health was very fragile, the Board decided to send Mr. John Johnstone to visit his main drainage works with him and ensure that the benefits of his knowledge would be passed down to future generations.
Accordingly, Mr. John Johnstone, having carefully studied Elkington's system, under its author, in the peripatetic method, undertook, like Plato, to record the sayings of his master in science, and produced a work, entitled, "An Account of the Most Approved Mode of Draining Land, According to the System Practised by Mr. Joseph Elkington." It was published at Edinburgh, in 1797. Mr. Gisborne says, that Elkington found in Johnstone "a very inefficient exponent of his opinions, and of the principles on which he conducted his works."
Accordingly, Mr. John Johnstone, having carefully studied Elkington's system under its creator using the walking method, took it upon himself, like Plato, to document the teachings of his science master and produced a work titled "An Account of the Most Approved Mode of Draining Land, According to the System Practiced by Mr. Joseph Elkington." It was published in Edinburgh in 1797. Mr. Gisborne states that Elkington found Johnstone to be "a very inefficient representative of his views and the principles guiding his work."
"Every one," says he, "who reads the work, which is popularly called 'Elkington on Draining,' should be aware, that it is not Joseph who thinks and speaks therein, but John, who tells his readers what, according to his ideas, Joseph would have thought and spoken."
"Everyone," he says, "who reads the work commonly known as 'Elkington on Draining,' should know that it's not Joseph who thinks and speaks in it, but John, who shares with his readers what he believes Joseph would have thought and said."
Again—
Again—
"Johnstone, measured by general capacity, is a very shallow drainer! He delights in exceptional cases, of which he may have met with some, but of which, we suspect the great majority to be products of his own ingenuity, and to be put forward, with a view to display the ability with which he could encounter them."
"Johnstone, considering his overall ability, is quite a superficial thinker! He loves unique cases, and while he may have encountered a few, we suspect that most are creations of his own imagination, presented to showcase how skillfully he can handle them."
Johnstone's report seems to have undergone several revisions, and to have been enlarged and reproduced in other forms than the original, for we find, that, in 1838, it was published in the United States, at Petersburg, Virginia,[29] as a supplement to the Farmer's Register, by Edmund Ruffin, Esq., editor, a reprint "from the third British Edition, revised and enlarged," under the following title:
Johnstone's report appears to have gone through multiple revisions and has been expanded and released in formats different from the original. For instance, in 1838, it was published in the United States, in Petersburg, Virginia,[29] as a supplement to the Farmer's Register by Edmund Ruffin, Esq., the editor. This was a reprint "from the third British Edition, revised and enlarged," with the following title:
"A Systematic Treatise on the Theory and Practice of Draining Land, &c., according to the most approved methods, and adapted to the various situations and soils of England and Scotland; also on sea, river, and lake embankments, formation of ponds and artificial pieces of water, with an appendix, containing hints and directions for the culture and improvement of bog, morass, moor, and other unproductive ground, after being drained; the whole illustrated by plans and sections applicable to the various situations and forms of construction. Inscribed to the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, by John Johnstone, Land Surveyor."
"A Systematic Treatise on the Theory and Practice of Draining Land, &c., using the most effective methods, and suited to the different situations and soils of England and Scotland; also addressing sea, river, and lake embankments, the creation of ponds and artificial bodies of water, with an appendix that includes tips and guidelines for cultivating and improving bogs, marshes, moors, and other non-productive land after drainage; all illustrated with plans and sections relevant to various situations and construction types. Dedicated to the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, by John Johnstone, Land Surveyor."
Mr. Ruffin certainly deserves great credit for his enterprise in republishing in America, at so early a day, a work of which an English copy could not be purchased for less than six dollars, as well as for his zealous labors ever since in the cause of agriculture.
Mr. Ruffin definitely deserves a lot of credit for his initiative in republishing a work in America so early on, especially when an English copy could be bought for no less than six dollars, as well as for his passionate efforts in promoting agriculture ever since.
There is, in this work of Johnstone, a quaintness which he, probably, did not learn from Elkington, and which illustrates the character of his mind as one not peculiarly adapted to a plain and practical history of another man's system and labors. For instance, in speaking of the arrangement of his subject into parts, he says, in a note, "The subject being closely connected with cutting, section is held as a better division than chapter!"
There’s a charm in Johnstone’s work that he likely didn’t pick up from Elkington, showcasing that his mind isn’t particularly suited for a straightforward and practical account of someone else's system and efforts. For example, when discussing how he organized his subject into sections, he mentions in a note, "Since the subject is closely linked to cutting, section is considered a better division than chapter!"
Again, he speaks of embanking, and says he has some experience on that head. Then he adds the following note, lest a possible pun should be lost: "An embankment is often termed a 'head,' as it makes head, or resistance, against the encroachment of high tide or river floods."
Again, he talks about building embankments and mentions that he has some experience in that area. Then he adds this note, just in case a potential pun goes unnoticed: "An embankment is often called a 'head,' as it acts as a barrier or resistance against the advance of high tides or river floods."
There is some danger that a mind which scents a whimsical analogy of meaning like this, may entirely lose the main track of pursuit; but Johnstone's special mission[30] was to ascertain Elkington's method, and his account of it is, therefore, the best authority we have on the subject.
There’s a risk that a mind which picks up on a quirky similarity in meaning like this might completely stray from the main focus; however, Johnstone’s specific mission[30] was to figure out Elkington’s method, and his description of it is, therefore, the most reliable source we have on the topic.
He gives the following statement of Elkington's discovery:
He provides the following account of Elkington's discovery:
"In the year 1763, Elkington was left by his father in the possession of a farm called Prince-Thorp, in the parish of Stretton-upon-Dunsmore, and county of Warwick. The soil of this farm was so poor, and, in many places, so extremely wet, that it was the cause of rotting several hundreds of his sheep, which first induced him, if possible, to drain it. This he begun to do, in 1764, in a field of wet clay soil, rendered almost a swamp, or shaking bog, by the springs which issued from an adjoining bank of gravel and sand, and overflowed the surface of the ground below. To drain this field, which was of considerable extent, he cut a trench about four or five feet deep, a little below the upper side of the bog, where the wetness began to make its appearance; and, after proceeding with it in this direction and at this depth, he found it did not reach the principal body of subjacent water from which the evil arose. On perceiving this, he was at a loss how to proceed, when one of his servants came to the field with an iron crow, or bar, for the purpose of making holes for fixing sheep hurdles in an adjoining part of the farm, as represented on the plan. Having a suspicion that his drain was not deep enough, and desirous to know what strata lay under it, he took the iron bar, and having forced it down about four feet below the bottom of the trench, on pulling it out, to his astonishment, a great quantity of water burst up through the hole he had thus made, and ran along the drain. This led him to the knowledge, that wetness may be often produced by water confined farther below the surface of the ground than it was possible for the usual depth of drains to reach, and that an auger would be a useful instrument to apply in such cases. Thus, chance was the parent of this discovery, as she often is of other useful arts; and fortunate it is for society, when such accidents happen to those who have sense and judgment to avail themselves of hints thus fortuitously given. In this manner he soon accomplished the drainage of his whole farm, and rendered it so perfectly dry and sound, that none of his flock was ever after affected with disease.
"In 1763, Elkington was left a farm called Prince-Thorp by his father, located in the parish of Stretton-upon-Dunsmore in Warwickshire. The soil on this farm was so poor and, in many areas, so extremely wet that it caused the death of several hundred of his sheep, which first motivated him to drain it. He started this process in 1764 in a field with wet clay soil, which had become almost a swamp, or shaking bog, due to springs coming from a nearby bank of gravel and sand that overflowed the ground. To drain this fairly large field, he dug a trench about four or five feet deep, just below the upper side of the bog, where the wetness began. However, after digging in this direction and at this depth, he realized it didn’t reach the principal body of subjacent water causing the problem. Unsure how to proceed, one of his workers came to the field with an iron crow, or bar, to make holes for putting up sheep hurdles in another part of the farm, as shown on the plan. Thinking that his drain wasn’t deep enough and wanting to see what layers were underneath, he used the iron bar and pushed it down about four feet below the trench. To his surprise, when he pulled it out, a large amount of water surged up through the hole he made and flowed along the drain. This taught him that excess moisture can often come from water trapped deeper below the surface than the typical drain depth, and that an auger would be a useful tool in such cases. Thus, chance played a role in this discovery, as it often does in other useful innovations; and it’s fortunate for society when such accidents benefit those who are perceptive enough to recognize and act on these fortuitous hints. This way, he quickly drained his entire farm and made it so perfectly dry and healthy that none of his flock ever suffered from disease again."
"By the success of this experiment, Mr. Elkington's fame, as a drainer, was quickly and widely extended; and, after having successfully drained several farms in his neighborhood, he was, at last, very generally employed for that purpose in various parts of the kingdom, till about thirty years ago, when the country had the melancholy cause[31] to regret his loss. From his long practice and experience, he became so successful in the works he undertook, and so skillful in judging of the internal strata of the earth and the nature of springs, that, with remarkable precision, he could ascertain where to find water, and trace the course of springs that made no appearance on the surface of the ground. During his practice of more than thirty years, he drained in various parts of England, particularly in the midland counties, many thousand acres of land, which, from being originally of little or no value, soon became as useful as any in the kingdom, by producing the most valuable kinds of grain and feeding the best and healthiest species of stock.
"Thanks to the success of this experiment, Mr. Elkington quickly gained widespread recognition as a drainage expert. After successfully draining several farms in his area, he became widely sought after for that purpose all over the country, until about thirty years ago, when the nation sadly mourned his loss. Through years of practice and experience, he excelled in the projects he undertook and became highly skilled at judging the internal layers of the earth and the nature of springs. With remarkable accuracy, he could pinpoint where to find water and trace the paths of springs that weren't visible on the surface. During his practice of over thirty years, he drained many thousands of acres across England, particularly in the midland counties. These lands, which were initially of little or no value, became highly productive, yielding some of the most valuable crops and supporting the best and healthiest livestock."
"Many have erroneously entertained an idea that Elkington's skill lay solely in applying the auger for the tapping of springs, without attaching any merit to his method of conducting the drains. The accidental circumstance above stated gave him the first notion of using an auger, and directed his attention to the profession and practice of draining, in the course of which he made various useful discoveries, as will be afterwards explained. With regard to the use of the auger, though there is every reason to believe that he was led to employ that instrument from the circumstance already stated, and did not derive it from any other source of intelligence, yet there is no doubt that others might have hit upon the same idea without being indebted for it to him. It has happened, that, in attempts to discover mines by boring, springs have been tapped, and ground thereby drained, either by letting the water down, or by giving it vent to the surface; and that the auger has been likewise used in bringing up water in wells, to save the expense of deeper digging; but that it had been used in draining land, before Mr. Elkington made that discovery, no one has ventured to assert."
"Many people have mistakenly thought that Elkington's talent was simply in using the auger for the tapping of springs, without recognizing the value of his method for handling drains. The chance event mentioned earlier gave him the initial idea of using an auger and focused his attention on the field of drainage, during which he made several useful discoveries, as will be explained later. As for the use of the auger, while it's likely he started using that tool due to the previously mentioned circumstance and didn't get the idea from any other source, there's no doubt that others could have come up with the same concept independently. It has happened that in efforts to find mines through boring, springs have been tapped and land drained either by letting the water down or allowing it to flow to the surface. The auger has also been used to draw water from wells to avoid the cost of digging deeper; however, no one has claimed that it was used in draining land before Mr. Elkington made that discovery."
Begging pardon of the shade of John Johnstone for the liberty, we will copy from Mr. Gisborne, as being more clearly expressed, a summary explanation of Elkington's system, as Mr. Gisborne has deduced it from Johnstone's report, with two simple and excellent plans:
Begging the pardon of the spirit of John Johnstone for this permission, we will take a clearer summary explanation of Elkington's system from Mr. Gisborne, as he has derived it from Johnstone's report, along with two simple and effective plans:
"A slight modification of Johnstone's best and simplest plan, with a few sentences of explanation, will sufficiently elucidate Elkington's mystery, and will comprehend the case of all simple superficial springs. Perhaps in Agricultural Britain, no formation is more common than moderate elevations of pervious material, such as chalk, gravel, and imperfect stone or rock of various kinds, resting upon more horizontal[32] beds of clay, or other material less pervious than themselves, and at their inferior edge overlapped by it. For this overlap geological reasons are given, into which we cannot now enter. In order to make our explanation simple, we use the words, gravel and clay, as generic for pervious and impervious material.
A slight tweak to Johnstone's best and simplest plan, along with a few sentences of explanation, will clearly clarify Elkington's mystery and will cover the case for all simple surface springs. In Agricultural Britain, one of the most common formations is moderate elevations of permeable materials, like chalk, gravel, and various types of imperfect stone or rock, that sit on more horizontal[32] layers of clay or other materials that are less permeable. These materials are overlapped by the clay at their lower edge. Geological reasons are provided for this overlap, but we can't delve into that right now. To keep our explanation straightforward, we will use the terms gravel and clay as general references for permeable and impermeable materials.

Fig. 1
Fig. 1
"Our drawing is an attempt to combine plan and section, which will probably be sufficiently illustrative. From A to T is the overlap, which is, in fact, a dam holding up the water in the gravel. In this dam there is a weak place at S, through which water issues permanently (a superficial spring), and runs over the surface from S to O. This issue has a tendency to lower the water in the gravel to the line M m. But when continued rains overpower this issue, the water in the gravel rises to the line A a, and meeting with no impediment at the point A, it flows over the surface between A and S. In addition to these more decided outlets, the water is probably constantly squeezing, in a slow way, through the whole dam. Elkington undertakes to drain the surface from A to O. He cuts a drain from O to B, and then he puts down a bore-hole, an Artesian well, from B to Z. His hole enters the tail of the gravel; the water contained therein rises up it: and the tendency of this new outlet is to lower the water to the line B b. If so lowered that it can no longer overflow at A or at S, and the surface from A to O is drained, so far as the springs are concerned, though our section can only represent one spring, and one summit-overflow, it is manifest that, however long the horizontal line of junction between the gravel and clay may be, however numerous the weak places (springs) in the overlap, or dam, and the summit-overflows, they will all be stopped, provided they lie at a higher level than the line B b. If Elkington had driven his drain forward from B to n, he would, at least, equally have attained his object; but the bore-hole was[33] less expensive. He escapes the deepest and most costly portion of his drain. At x, he might have bored to the centre of the earth without ever realizing the water in this gravel. His whole success, therefore, depended upon his sagacity in hitting the point Z. Another simple and very common case, first successfully treated by Elkington, is illustrated by our second drawing.
"Our drawing is an attempt to combine a plan and a section, which should be clear enough. From A to T is the overlap, which acts as a dam holding back the water in the gravel. In this dam, there’s a weak spot at S, where water continuously seeps out (a superficial spring), flowing from S to O. This seepage tends to lower the water level in the gravel to line M m. However, when heavy rainfall overwhelms this seepage, the water in the gravel rises to line A a, and since there’s no obstruction at point A, it flows over the surface between A and S. Besides these main outlets, water is likely seeping slowly through the entire dam. Elkington plans to drain the surface from A to O. He digs a drain from O to B, and then he installs a bore-hole, an Artesian well, from B to Z. His bore-hole reaches the bottom of the gravel; the water there rises through it, and this new outlet aims to lower the water level to line B b. If lowered enough that it can no longer overflow at A or S, and the surface from A to O is drained, at least in terms of the springs, even though our section shows just one spring and one summit overflow, it’s clear that, no matter how long the horizontal boundary between the gravel and clay is, or how many weak spots (springs) there are in the overlap or dam, and the summit overflows, they will all be blocked if they are above line B b. If Elkington had extended his drain from B to n, he would have achieved his goal just as well; but the bore-hole was[33] less expensive. He avoids the deepest and most costly part of his drain. At x, he could have drilled to the earth's center without ever finding water in this gravel. Therefore, his entire success depended on his ability to hit the mark at Z. Another simple and very common scenario, which Elkington successfully addressed first, is shown in our second drawing."

Fig. 2
Fig. 2
"Between gravel hills lies a dish-shaped bed of clay, the gravel being continuous under the dish. Springs overflow at A and B, and wet the surface from A to O, and from B to O. O D is a drain four or five feet deep, and having an adequate outlet; D Z a bore-hole. The water in the gravel rises from Z to D, and is lowered to the level D m and D n. Of course it ceases to flow over at A and B. If Elkington's heart had failed him when he reached X, he would have done no good. All his success depends on his reaching Z, however deep it may lie. Elkington was a discoverer. We do not at all believe that his discoveries hinged on the accident that the shepherd walked across the field with a crow-bar in his hand. When he forced down that crow-bar, he had more in his head than was ever dreamed of in Johnstone's philosophy. Such accidents do not happen to ordinary men. Elkington's subsequent use of his discovery, in which no one has yet excelled him, warrants our supposition that the discovery was not accidental. He was not one of those prophets who are without honor in their own country: he created an immense sensation, and received a parliamentary grant of one thousand pounds. One writer compares his auger to Moses' rod, and Arthur Young speculates, whether though worthy to[34] be rewarded by millers on one side of the hill for increasing their stream, he was not liable to an action by those on the other for diminishing theirs."
"Between gravel hills lies a dish-shaped bed of clay, with the gravel extending continuously beneath it. Springs overflow at points A and B, soaking the surface from A to O, and from B to O. O D is a drain that is four or five feet deep with an adequate outlet; D Z is a borehole. The water in the gravel rises from Z to D and is lowered to the levels D m and D n. Naturally, it stops flowing over at A and B. If Elkington had lost his courage when he got to X, it would have been pointless. All his success depended on reaching Z, no matter how deep it was. Elkington was an innovator. We don’t believe that his discoveries were just the result of luck when the shepherd walked across the field with a crowbar. When he pushed down that crowbar, he had more ideas in his mind than anyone ever imagined in Johnstone's philosophy. Such fortunate accidents don’t happen to ordinary people. Elkington's later use of his discovery, in which no one has yet surpassed him, supports our belief that the discovery was intentional. He was not one of those prophets who are ignored in their own land: he created a huge sensation and received a parliamentary grant of one thousand pounds. One writer compares his auger to Moses' rod, and Arthur Young wonders if, although he deserved to be rewarded by millers on one side of the hill for increasing their stream, he could also be sued by those on the other side for reducing theirs."
Johnstone sums up this system as follows:
Johnstone summarizes this system like this:
"Draining according to Elkington's principles depends chiefly upon three things:
"Draining based on Elkington's principles relies mainly on three factors:
"1. Upon discovering the main spring, or source of the evil.
"1. When finding the main spring, or source of the evil."
"2. Upon taking the subterraneous bearings: and,
"2. Upon taking the underground bearings: and,
"3dly. By making use of the auger to reach and tap the springs, when the depth of the drain is not sufficient for that purpose.
"3rd. By using the auger to access and tap the springs when the drain's depth isn't enough for that."
"The first thing, therefore, to be observed is, by examining the adjoining high grounds, to discover what strata they are composed of; and then to ascertain, as nearly as possible, the inclination of these strata, and their connection with the ground to be drained, and thereby to judge at what place the level of the spring comes nearest to where the water can be cut off, and most readily discharged. The surest way of ascertaining the lay, or inclination, of the different strata, is, by examining the bed of the nearest streams, and the edges of the banks that are cut through by the water; and any pits, wells, or quarries that may be in the neighborhood. After the main spring has been thus discovered, the next thing is, to ascertain a line on the same level, to one or both sides of it, in which the drain may be conducted, which is one of the most important parts of the operation, and one on which the art of draining in a scientific manner essentially depends.
"The first thing to notice is to examine the nearby high ground to find out what layers it's made of; then to determine, as accurately as possible, the slope of these layers and how they connect with the land that needs draining. This helps us figure out where the spring's level is closest to where we can cut off the water and drain it easily. The best way to understand the slope of the different layers is by looking at the beds of the nearest streams and the edges of the banks where the water has eroded. We should also check any pits, wells, or quarries in the area. Once the main spring has been located, the next step is to find a line on the same level, on one or both sides of it, to guide the drain. This is a crucial part of the process and is key to effectively draining in a scientific way."
"Lastly, the use of the auger, which, in many cases, is the sine qua non of the business, is to reach and tap the spring when the depth of the drain does not reach it: where the level of the outlet will not admit of its being cut to a greater depth; and where the expense of such cutting would be great, and the execution of it difficult.
"Lastly, using the auger, which in many cases is essential to the operation, is to access and tap the spring when the drain's depth doesn't reach it: when the outlet level doesn't allow for a deeper cut, and when the cost of such cutting would be high and the process challenging."
"According to these principles, this system of draining has been attended with extraordinary consequences, not only in laying the land dry in the vicinity of the drain, but also springs, wells, and wet ground, at a considerable distance, with which there was no apparent connection."
"Based on these principles, this draining system has led to remarkable results, not only drying out the land near the drain but also affecting springs, wells, and wet areas far away, with which there was no obvious link."
DRAINAGE OF SPRINGS.

Fig. 3.
Fig. 3.
Wherever, from any cause, water bursts out from a hill's side, or from below, in a well defined spring, in any considerable quantity, the Elkington method of cutting a[35] deep drain directly into the seat of the evil, and so lowering the water that it may be carried away below the surface, is obviously the true and common-sense remedy. There may be cases where, in addition to the drain, it may be expedient to bore with an auger in the course of the drain. This, however, would be useful only where, from the peculiar formation, water is pent up upon a retentive subsoil in the manner already indicated. Elkington's method of draining by boring is illustrated in the following cut.
Wherever water flows out from the side of a hill or from a defined spring below, in significant amounts, the Elkington method of cutting a[35] deep drain directly into the source of the issue is clearly the practical solution. It lowers the water level so it can be directed away beneath the surface. In some cases, it might also be helpful to drill with an auger along the drain’s path. This approach would only be beneficial if water is trapped on a retainable subsoil as discussed earlier. Elkington's technique of draining through boring is shown in the following illustration.
In studying the history of Elkington's discovery, and especially of his own application of it, it would seem that he must have possessed some peculiar faculty of ascertaining the subterranean currents of water, not possessed or even claimed by modern engineers.
In studying the history of Elkington's discovery, and especially how he applied it, it seems he must have had a unique ability to determine the underground water currents, a skill that modern engineers do not have or even claim to have.
Indeed, Mr. Denton, who may rightly claim as much skill as a draining engineer, perhaps, as any man in England, expressly says, "It does not appear that any person now will undertake to do what Elkington did sixty years back."
Indeed, Mr. Denton, who can confidently assert that he has as much skill as a drainage engineer, perhaps as well as anyone in England, explicitly states, "It doesn’t seem like anyone is willing to do what Elkington accomplished sixty years ago."
In the Patent Office Report for 1851, at page 14, may be found an article entitled, "Well-digging," in which it is gravely contended, and not without a fair show of evidence, that certain persons possess the power of indicating, by means of a sort of divining rod of hazel or willow, subterraneous currents or springs of water.[36] This power has been called Bletonism, which is defined by Webster to be, "the faculty of perceiving and indicating subterraneous springs and currents by sensation—so called from one Bleton, of France, who possessed this faculty."
In the Patent Office Report for 1851, on page 14, there's an article titled, "Well-digging," which seriously claims, with a reasonable amount of evidence, that some individuals have the ability to point out underground water sources or springs using a divining rod made from hazel or willow.[36] This ability is referred to as Bletonism, defined by Webster as "the ability to perceive and point out underground springs and currents through sensation—named after one Bleton from France, who had this ability."
Under the authority of Webster, and of Mr. Ewbank, the Commissioner of Patents, in whose report the article in question was published by the Government of the United States, it will not be considered, perhaps, as putting faith in "water-witchery," to suggest that, possibly, Elkington did really possess a faculty, not common to all mankind, of detecting running water or springs, even far below the surface. We have the high authority of Tam o' Shanter for the opinion, that witches cannot cross a stream of water; for, when pursued by the "hellish legion" from Kirk-Alloway, he put his "gude mare Meg" to do her "speedy utmost" for the bridge of Doon, knowing that,
Under the authority of Webster and Mr. Ewbank, the Commissioner of Patents, in whose report the article in question was published by the Government of the United States, it may not seem too far-fetched to suggest that Elkington might actually have had a unique ability, not shared by everyone, to detect running water or springs, even deep underground. We have the respected opinion of Tam o' Shanter, who believed that witches can't cross a stream of water. When he was chased by the "hellish legion" from Kirk-Alloway, he urged his "gude mare Meg" to do her "speedy utmost" to reach the bridge of Doon, knowing that,
If witches are thus affected by flowing water, there is no reason to doubt that others, of peculiar organization, may possess some sensitiveness at its presence.
If witches are influenced by flowing water this way, there's no reason to believe that others, with unique characteristics, might not be sensitive to its presence as well.
It would not, probably, be useful to pursue more into detail the method of Mr. Elkington. The general principles upon which he wrought have been sufficiently explained. The miracles performed under his system seem to have ceased with his life, and, until we receive some new revelation as to the mode of finding the springs hidden in the earth, we must be content with the moderate results of a careful application of ordinary science, and not be discouraged in our attempts to leave the earth the better for our having lived on it, if we do not, like Elkington, succeed in draining, by a single ditch and a few auger holes, sixty statute acres of land.
It probably wouldn’t be helpful to go into more detail about Mr. Elkington’s method. The basic principles he used have been explained enough. The remarkable achievements under his approach seem to have ended with his life, and until we get some new insights on how to discover the springs hidden beneath the earth, we have to be satisfied with the modest outcomes of applying regular science carefully. We shouldn’t feel discouraged in our efforts to make the world a better place because we couldn’t, like Elkington, drain sixty acres of land with just a single ditch and a few auger holes.
THE DEANSTON SYSTEM; OR, FREQUENT DRAINAGE.[37]
James Smith, Esq., of Deanston, Sterlingshire, in Scotland, next after Elkington, in point of time, is the prominent leader of drainage operations in Great Britain. His peculiar views came into general notice about 1832, and, in 1844, we find published a seventh edition of his "Remarks on Thorough Draining." Smith was a man of education, and seems to be, in fact, the first advocate of any system worthy the name of thorough drainage.
James Smith, Esq., of Deanston, Sterlingshire, in Scotland, next after Elkington, in terms of timing, is the leading figure in drainage operations in Great Britain. His unique ideas gained widespread attention around 1832, and in 1844, we see a seventh edition of his "Remarks on Thorough Draining" published. Smith was an educated man and appears to be the first proponent of any system truly deserving the title of thorough drainage.
Instead of the few very deep drains, cut with reference to particular springs or sources of wetness, adopted by Elkington, Smith advocated and practiced a systematic operation over the whole field, at regular distances and shallow depths. Smith states, that in Scotland, much more injury arises from the retention of rain water, than from springs; while Elkington's attention seems to have been especially directed to springs, as the source of the evil.
Instead of the few very deep drains focused on specific springs or wet areas that Elkington used, Smith recommended and implemented a systematic approach across the entire field, digging at regular intervals and shallow depths. Smith pointed out that in Scotland, rainwater retention causes much more damage than springs do, while Elkington seemed to concentrate mainly on springs as the source of the problem.
The characteristic views of Smith, of Deanston, as stated by Mr. Denton, were:
The views that Smith from Deanston expressed, as mentioned by Mr. Denton, were:
"1st. Frequent drains at intervals of from ten to twenty-four feet.
"1st. Regular drains at intervals of ten to twenty-four feet."
"2nd. Shallow depth—not exceeding thirty inches—designed for the single purpose of freeing that depth of soil from stagnant and injurious water.
"2nd. Shallow depth—not exceeding thirty inches—made for the sole purpose of draining that depth of soil from stagnant and harmful water."
"3rd. 'Parallel drains at regular distances carried throughout the whole field, without reference to the wet and dry appearance of portions of the field,' in order 'to provide frequent opportunities for the water, rising from below and falling on the surface, to pass freely and completely off.
"3rd. 'Parallel drains at regular distances installed throughout the entire field, regardless of the wet and dry conditions of different sections of the field,' to create 'frequent opportunities for the water, coming up from below and falling on the surface, to flow freely and completely away.
"4th. Direction of the minor drains 'down the steep,' and that of the mains along the bottom of the chief hollow; tributary mains being provided for the lesser hollows.
"4th. Direction of the minor drains 'down the steep,' and that of the mains along the bottom of the primary valley; additional mains being installed for the smaller valleys."
"The reason assigned for the minor drains following the line of steepest descent, was, that 'the stratification generally lies in sheets at an angle to the surface.'
"The reason given for the small drains following the path of steepest descent was that 'the layers usually lie in sheets at an angle to the surface.'"
"5th. As to material—Stones preferred to tiles and pipes."
"5th. Regarding materials—Stones are preferred over tiles and pipes."
Mr. Smith somewhat modified his views during the last years of his life, especially as to the depth of drains, and, instead of shallow drains, recommended a depth of three feet, and even more in some cases; but continued, to the time of his death, which occurred about 1854, to oppose any increased intervals between the drains, and the extreme depth of four feet and more advocated by others. The peculiar points insisted on by Smith were, that drains should be near and parallel. His own words are:
Mr. Smith changed his opinions a bit in the last years of his life, especially regarding the depth of drains. Instead of shallow drains, he recommended a depth of three feet or even more in some cases. However, he continued to resist any wider spacing between the drains and the extreme depth of four feet or more that others supported until his death around 1854. The key points that Smith emphasized were that drains should be close together and running parallel. His own words are:
"The drains should be parallel with each other and at regular distances, and should be carried throughout the whole field, without regard to the wet and dry appearance of portions of the field—the principle of this system being the providing of frequent opportunities for the water rising from below, or falling on the surface, to pass freely and completely off."
"The drains should be parallel to each other and spaced out evenly, and they should run throughout the entire field, regardless of which parts look wet or dry. The idea behind this system is to offer frequent chances for the water coming up from below or falling onto the surface to flow freely and completely away."
Mr. Smith called it the "frequent drain system," and Mr. Denton says, that, "for distinction sake, I have ventured to christen this ready-made practice, the gridiron system," a name, by the way, which will, probably, seem to most readers more distinctive than respectful. Whatever may be the improvements on the Deanston method of draining, the name of Mr. Smith deserves, and, indeed, has already obtained, a high place among the improvers of agriculture.
Mr. Smith referred to it as the "frequent drain system," while Mr. Denton stated, "for the sake of distinction, I have taken the liberty to name this ready-made practice the gridiron system," a name that will likely seem more unique than respectful to most readers. Regardless of any enhancements to the Deanston method of draining, Mr. Smith's name deserves, and has already earned, a prominent position among the innovators in agriculture.
VIEWS OF MR. PARKES.
About the year 1846, when the first Act of the British Parliament authorizing "the advance of public money to promote the improvement of land by works of drainage" was passed, a careful investigation of the whole subject was made by a Committee of the House of Lords, and it was found that the best recorded opinions, if we except the peculiar views of Elkington, were represented by, if not merged into, those of Smith, of Deanston, which have already been stated, or those of Josiah Parkes. Mr. Parkes is the author of "Essays on the Philosophy and[39] Art of Land Drainage," and of many valuable papers on the same subject, published in the journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, of which he was consulting engineer. He is spoken of by Mr. Denton as "one whose philosophical publications on the same subject gave a scientific bearing to it, quite irreconcilable with the more mechanical rules laid down by Mr. Smith."
About 1846, when the first Act of the British Parliament was passed, allowing "the advance of public money to promote the improvement of land through drainage work," a thorough investigation of the entire issue was conducted by a Committee of the House of Lords. It turned out that the best recorded opinions, excluding the unique views of Elkington, were represented by, or at least aligned with, those of Smith from Deanston, which have already been mentioned, or those of Josiah Parkes. Mr. Parkes is the author of "Essays on the Philosophy and[39] Art of Land Drainage" and many valuable papers on the same topic published in the journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, where he served as a consulting engineer. Mr. Denton refers to him as "one whose philosophical publications on the same subject provided a scientific perspective that was completely at odds with the more mechanical rules laid down by Mr. Smith."
The characteristic views of Mr. Parkes, as set forth at that time, as compared with those of Mr. Smith, are—
The views of Mr. Parkes, as expressed at that time, compared to those of Mr. Smith, are—
"1st. Less frequent drains, at intervals varying from twenty-one to fifty feet, with preference for wide intervals.
"1st. Less frequent drains, spaced between twenty-one and fifty feet apart, with a preference for wider intervals."
"2nd. Deeper drains at a minimum depth of four feet, designed with the two-fold object of not only freeing the active soil from stagnant and injurious water, but of converting the water falling on the surface into an agent for fertilizing; no drainage being deemed efficient that did not both remove the water failing on the surface, and 'keep down the subterranean water at a depth exceeding the power of capillary attraction to elevate it to near the surface.'
"2nd. Deeper drains at a minimum depth of four feet, designed with the dual purpose of both removing stagnant and harmful water from the active soil and turning the water that falls on the surface into a resource for fertilization; no drainage is considered effective unless it both removes the water falling on the surface and keeps the underground water at a depth greater than the capillary attraction can pull it toward the surface."
"3rd. Parallel arrangement of drains, as advocated by Smith, of Deanston.
"3rd. Parallel arrangement of drains, as suggested by Smith, of Deanston."
"4th. The advantage of increased depth, as compensating for increased width between the drains.
"4th. The benefit of greater depth, as offsetting the expanded width between the drains."
"5th. Pipes of an inch bore, the 'best known conduit' for the parallel drains. (See Evidence before Lords' Committee on Entailed Estates, 1845, Q. 67.)
"5th. Pipes with a one-inch diameter, the 'most recognized conduit' for the parallel drains. (See Evidence before Lords' Committee on Entailed Estates, 1845, Q. 67.)
"6th. The cost of draining uniform clays should not exceed £3 per acre."
"6th. The cost of draining uniform clays shouldn't go over £3 per acre."
The most material differences between the views of these two leaders of what have been deemed rival systems of drainage, will be seen to be the following. Smith advocates drains of two to three feet in depth, at from ten to twenty-four feet distances; while Parkes contends for a depth of not less than four feet, with a width between of from twenty-one to fifty feet, the depth in some measure compensating for the increased distance.
The main differences between the perspectives of these two leaders regarding what are considered opposing drainage systems can be summarized as follows. Smith supports drains that are two to three feet deep, spaced ten to twenty-four feet apart; whereas Parkes argues for a depth of at least four feet, with a spacing of twenty-one to fifty feet, where the increased depth somewhat makes up for the longer distance.
Mr. Parkes advocated the use of pipes of one inch bore,[40] which Mr. Smith contemptuously denominated "pencil-cases," and which subsequent experience has shown to be quite too small for prudent use.
Mr. Parkes supported using pipes with a one-inch diameter,[40] which Mr. Smith mockingly called "pencil-cases," and later experience has demonstrated that they are definitely too small for safe use.
The estimate of Mr. Parkes, based, in part, upon his wide distances and small pipes, that drainage might be effected generally in England at a cost of about fifteen dollars per acre, was soon found to be far below the average expense, which is now estimated at nearly double that sum.
The estimate from Mr. Parkes, which was partly based on his extensive distances and small pipes, suggested that drainage could be done across England for around fifteen dollars per acre. However, it was quickly discovered that this amount was much lower than the actual average cost, which is now estimated to be almost double that amount.
The Enclosure Commissioners, after the most careful inquiry, adopted fully the views of Mr. Parkes as to the depth of drains. Mr. Parkes himself, saw occasion to modify his ideas, as to the cost of drainage, upon further investigation of the subject, and fixed his estimates as ranging from $15 to $30 per acre, according to soil and other local circumstances.
The Enclosure Commissioners, after a thorough investigation, completely agreed with Mr. Parkes regarding the depth of drains. Mr. Parkes himself found it necessary to revise his thoughts on the cost of drainage after further research, estimating it to be between $15 and $30 per acre, depending on the soil and other local conditions.
It has been well said by a recent English writer, of Mr. Parkes:
It has been well said by a recent English writer about Mr. Parkes:
"That gentleman's services in the cause of drainage, have been inestimable, and his high reputation will not be affected by any remarks which experience may suggest with reference to details, so long as the philosophical principles he first advanced in support of deep drainage are acknowledged by thinking men. Mr. Parkes' practice in 1854, will be found to differ very considerably from his anticipations of 1845, but the influence of his earlier writings and sayings continues to this day."
"That gentleman's contributions to drainage have been invaluable, and his strong reputation won't be diminished by any comments that experience might bring up about the specifics, as long as the fundamental ideas he initially proposed in support of deep drainage are recognized by thoughtful people. Mr. Parkes' methods in 1854 are quite different from what he envisioned in 1845, but the impact of his earlier writings and statements remains significant even today."
THE KEYTHORPE SYSTEM.
Lord Berners having adopted a method of drainage on his estate at Keythorpe, differing somewhat from any of the regular and more uniform modes which have been considered, a sharp controversy as to its merits has arisen, and still continues in England, which, like most controversies, may be of more advantage to others than to the parties immediately concerned.
Lord Berners has implemented a drainage system on his estate at Keythorpe that deviates from the usual methods considered. This has sparked a sharp debate about its effectiveness, which is still ongoing in England, and like most debates, it may benefit others more than the parties directly involved.
The theory of the Keythorpe system seems to have been invented by Mr. Joshua Trimmer, a distinguished geologist[41] of England, who, about 1854, produced a paper, which was published in the journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, on the "Keythorpe System." He states that his own theory was based entirely on his knowledge of the geological structure of the earth, which will be presently given in his own language, and that he afterwards ascertained that Lord Berners, who had no special theory to vindicate, had, by the "tentative process," or in plain English, by trying experiments, hit upon substantially the same system, and found it to work admirably.
The idea behind the Keythorpe system seems to have been created by Mr. Joshua Trimmer, a notable geologist from England. Around 1854, he published a paper in the journal of the Royal Agricultural Society discussing the "Keythorpe System." He explains that his theory was entirely based on his understanding of the earth's geological structure, which he will explain in his own words. He later discovered that Lord Berners, who didn’t have a specific theory to defend, had arrived at a very similar system through experimentation, or in simpler terms, by trying things out, and found it to work exceptionally well.
Most people in the United States have no idea of what it is to be patronized by a lord. In England, it is thought by many to be the thing needful to the chance, even, of success of any new theory, and accordingly, Mr. Trimmer, without hesitation, availed himself of the privilege of being patronized by Lord Berners; and the latter, before he was aware of how much the agricultural world was indebted to him for his valuable discoveries, suddenly found himself at the head of the "Keythorpe System of Drainage."
Most people in the United States have no idea what it's like to be supported by a lord. In England, many believe that having a patron is essential for the success of any new theory. So, Mr. Trimmer, without hesitation, took advantage of the opportunity to be backed by Lord Berners; and before Lord Berners realized how much the agricultural community owed him for his important discoveries, he suddenly found himself leading the "Keythorpe System of Drainage."
His lordship was probably as much surprised to ascertain that he had been working out a new system, as some man of whom we have heard, was, to learn that he had been speaking prose all his life! At the call of the public, however, his lordship at once gave to the world the facts in his possession, making no claim to any great discovery, and leaving Mr. Trimmer to defend the new system as best he might. The latter, in one of his pamphlets published in defence of the Keythorpe system, states its claims as follows:
His lordship was probably just as surprised to discover that he had been developing a new system as a certain man we’ve heard about was to find out that he had been speaking prose his whole life! However, in response to the public's interest, his lordship immediately shared the information he had, making no claims to any significant discovery, and leaving Mr. Trimmer to defend the new system as best he could. In one of his pamphlets published in support of the Keythorpe system, he outlines its claims as follows:
"The peculiarities of the Keythorpe system of draining consist in this—that the parallel drains are not equidistant, and that they cross the line of the greatest descent. The usual depth is three and a half feet, but some are as deep as five and six feet. The depth and width of interval are determined by digging trial-holes, in order to ascertain not only the depth at which the bottom water is reached, but the height[42] to which the water rises in the holes, and the distance at which a drain will lay the hole dry. In sinking these holes, clay-banks are found with hollows or furrows between them, which are filled with a more porous soil, as represented in the annexed sectional diagram.
The unique features of the Keythorpe drainage system include that the parallel drains are not spaced evenly and that they cross the steepest slope. The typical depth is three and a half feet, but some go as deep as five or six feet. The depth and spacing of the drains are determined by digging trial holes to find not only how deep the bottom water is but also how high the water rises in the holes, and how far away a drain will dry out the hole. When digging these holes, clay banks are found with dips or grooves in between, which are filled with a more porous soil, as shown in the attached sectional diagram.

Fig. 4.
Fig. 4.
- a a Trial-holes.
- b Clay-banks of lias or of boulder-clay.
- c A more porous warp-drift filling furrows between the clay-banks.
"The next object is to connect these furrows by drains laid across them. The result is, that as the furrows and ridges here run along the fall of the ground, which I have observed to be the case generally elsewhere, the sub-mains follow the fall, and the parallel drains cross it obliquely.
The next goal is to link these furrows with drains placed across them. As a result, since the furrows and ridges here go along the slope of the land, which I’ve noticed is usually the case in other areas, the sub-mains continue with the slope, and the parallel drains cut across it at an angle.
"The intervals between the parallel drains are irregular, varying, in the same field, from 14 to 21, 31, and 59 feet. The distances are determined by opening the diagonal drains at the greatest distance from the trial-holes at which experience has taught the practicability of its draining the hole. If it does not succeed in accomplishing the object, another drain is opened in the interval. It has been found, in many cases, that a drain crossing the clay-banks and furrows takes the water from holes lying lower down the hill; that is to say, it intercepts the water flowing to them through these subterranean channels. The parallel drains, however, are not invariably laid across the fall. The exceptions are on ground where the fall is very slight, in which case they are laid along the line of greatest descent. On such grounds there are few or no clay-banks and furrows."
"The distances between the parallel drains aren't consistent, ranging within the same field from 14 to 21, 31, and 59 feet. The measurements are based on where the diagonal drains can be opened at the farthest point from the test holes, where experience has shown they can effectively drain the area. If a drain doesn't manage to achieve this, another one is installed in the gap. In many cases, it has been observed that a drain crossing the clay banks and furrows captures water from holes located further down the hill; in other words, it blocks the water that's flowing to them through these underground channels. However, the parallel drains aren't always positioned across the slope. In places where the slope is very minimal, they are laid out along the path of steepest descent. On such terrain, there are few or no clay banks and furrows."
It would seem highly probable that the mode of drainage adopted at Keythorpe, is indebted for its success at that place, to a geological formation not often met with. At a public discussion in England, Mr. T. Scott, a gentleman of large experience in draining, stated that "he never, in his practice, had met with such a geological[43] formation as was said to exist at Keythorpe, except in such large areas as to admit of their being drained in the usual gridiron or parallel fashion."
It seems quite likely that the drainage method used at Keythorpe owes its success to a geological formation that's not commonly found. During a public discussion in England, Mr. T. Scott, a man with extensive experience in drainage, mentioned that "he has never, in his practice, encountered such a geological[43] formation as is said to exist at Keythorpe, except in large areas that allow for conventional gridiron or parallel drainage."
It is claimed for this system by its advocates, that it is far cheaper than any other, because drains are only laid in the places where, by careful examination beforehand, by opening pits, they are found to be necessary; and that is a great saving of expense, when compared with the system of laying the drains at equal distances and depths over the field.
Advocates of this system claim that it's much cheaper than any other because drains are only installed in areas where, after careful examination and by digging pits, they are deemed necessary. This approach saves a significant amount of money compared to the system of placing drains at equal distances and depths across the entire field.
Against what is urged as the Keythorpe system, several allegations are brought.
Against what is presented as the Keythorpe system, several claims are made.
In the first place, that it is in fact no system. Mr. Denton, having carefully examined the Keythorpe estate, and the published statements of its owner, asserts, that the drains there laid have no uniformity of depth—part of the tiles being laid but eighteen inches deep, and others four feet and more, in the same field.
In the first place, it's really not a system. Mr. Denton, after closely inspecting the Keythorpe estate and the owner’s published claims, states that the drains installed have no consistent depth—some tiles are laid as shallow as eighteen inches, while others are over four feet deep, all in the same field.
Secondly, that there is no uniformity as to direction—part of the drains being laid across the fall, and part with the fall, in the same fields—with no obvious reason for the difference of direction.
Secondly, that there is no consistency in direction—some of the drains are laid across the slope, and some are laid with the slope, in the same fields—with no clear reason for the difference in direction.
Thirdly, that there is no uniformity as to materials—a part of the drains being wood, and a part tiles, in the same field.
Thirdly, that there is no consistency in materials—some of the drains are wood, and others are tiles, all in the same field.
Finally, it is contended that there is no saving of expense in the Keythorpe draining, over the ordinary mode, when all points are considered, because the pretended saving is made by the use of wood, where true economy would require tiles, and shallow drains are used where deeper ones would in the end be cheaper.
Finally, it is argued that there are no cost savings in the Keythorpe drainage compared to the conventional method when all aspects are taken into account, because the supposed savings come from using wood, while true cost-effectiveness would require tiles, and shallow drains are utilized where deeper ones would ultimately be more economical.
In speaking of this controversy, it is due to Lord Berners to say, that he expressly disclaims any invention or novelty in his operations at Keythorpe.
In discussing this controversy, it's only fair to say that Lord Berners clearly states that he doesn't claim any invention or originality in his work at Keythorpe.
On the whole, although a work at the present day[44] which should pass over, without consideration, the claims of the Keythorpe system, would be quite incomplete in its history of the subject, yet the facts elicited with regard to it are perhaps chiefly valuable, as tending to show the danger of basing a general principle upon an isolated case.
Overall, while a current work[44] that ignores the claims of the Keythorpe system would be rather incomplete in its historical overview of the topic, the information gathered about it is probably most valuable for illustrating the risk of forming a general principle based on a single case.
The discussion of the claims of that system—if such it may be called—may be valuable in America, where novelty is sure to attract, by showing that one more form of error has already been tried and "found wanting;" and so save us the trouble of proving its inutility by experiment.
The discussion of the claims of that system—if that's what it can be called—might be useful in America, where new ideas are always appealing, by demonstrating that yet another flawed approach has already been attempted and "found wanting;" and thus spare us the effort of proving its uselessness through trial and error.
THE WHARNCLIFFE SYSTEM.
Lord Wharncliffe, with a view to effect adequate drainage at less expense than is usual in thorough drainage, has adopted upon his estate a sort of compromise system, which he has brought to the notice of the public in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society.
Lord Wharncliffe, aiming to achieve proper drainage at a lower cost than usual for thorough drainage, has implemented a compromise system on his estate, which he has highlighted to the public in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society.
Upon Fontenelle's idea, that "mankind only settle into the right course after passing through and exhausting all the varieties of error," it is well to advise our readers of this particular form of error also—to show that it has already been tried—so that no patent of invention can be claimed upon it by those perverse persons who are not satisfied without constant change, and who seem to imagine that the ten commandments might be improved by a new edition.
Based on Fontenelle's idea that "mankind only finds the right path after going through and exhausting all kinds of mistakes," it's good to inform our readers about this specific mistake too—showing that it has already been attempted—so that no one can claim it as a new idea. This is especially for those stubborn individuals who are never happy without constant change and who seem to think that the ten commandments could be updated with a new version.
Lord Wharncliffe states his principles as follows, and calls his method the combined system of deep and shallow drainage:
Lord Wharncliffe outlines his principles as follows and refers to his approach as the combined system of deep and shallow drainage:
"In order to secure the full effect of thorough drainage in clays, it is necessary that there should be not only well-laid conduits for the water which reaches them, but also subsidiary passages opened through the substance of the close subsoil, by means of atmospheric heat, and the contraction which ensues from it. The cracks and fissures which result[45] from this action, are reckoned upon as a certain and essential part of the process.
"To achieve effective drainage in clay soils, it's important to have properly installed pipes for the water that reaches them, as well as additional channels created in the dense subsoil through the heat from the atmosphere and the contractions that follow. The cracks and fissures caused by this process are considered a necessary and vital part of the overall procedure.[45]"
"To give efficiency, therefore, to a system of deep drains beneath a stiff clay, these natural channels are required. To produce them, there must be a continued action of heat and evaporation. If we draw off effectually and constantly the bottom water from beneath the clay and from its substance, as far as it admits of percolation, and by some other means provide a vent for the upper water, which needs no more than this facility to run freely, there seems good reason to suppose that the object may be completely attained, and that we shall remove the moisture from both portions as effectually as its quantity and the substance will permit. Acting upon this view, then, after due consideration, I determined to combine with the fundamental four-feet drains a system of auxiliary ones of much less depth, which should do their work above, and contribute their share to the wholesome discharge, while the under-current from their more subterranean neighbors should be steadily performing their more difficult duty.
"To make a system of deep drains below a hard clay more efficient, we need these natural channels. To create them, there must be ongoing heat and evaporation. If we effectively and consistently remove the groundwater from below the clay and from within it, to the extent that it allows for water to flow through, and if we also provide a way for the surface water to escape, which only needs this access to flow freely, there’s good reason to believe that we can achieve our goal completely, and that we will remove moisture from both areas as effectively as the amount and the material will allow. Based on this understanding, after careful thought, I decided to combine the main four-foot drains with a system of additional shallower drains, which would work at the surface and help with the healthy drainage, while the deeper drains continue to handle their more challenging task."
"I accomplished this, by placing my four-feet drains at a distance of from eighteen to twenty yards apart, and then leading others into them, sunk only to about two feet beneath the surface (which appeared, upon consideration, to be sufficiently below any conceivable depth of cultivation), and laying these at a distance from each other of eight yards. These latter are laid at an acute angle with the main-drains, and at their mouths are either gradually sloped downwards to the lower level, or have a few loose stones placed in the same intervals between the two, sufficient to ensure the perpendicular descent of the upper stream through that space, which can never exceed, or, indeed, strictly equal, the additional two feet."
"I achieved this by placing my four-foot drains about eighteen to twenty yards apart and connecting others to them, sunk only about two feet below the surface (which seemed, upon reflection, to be deep enough to avoid any potential cultivation depth). These additional drains are spaced eight yards apart. They are set at an angle to the main drains, and at their openings, they either gently slope down to the lower level or have a few loose stones placed in between at the same intervals to ensure that the upper flow can drop straight down through that distance, which can never exceed or precisely match the extra two feet."
There are two reasons why this mode of drainage cannot be adopted in the northern part of the United States.
There are two reasons why this drainage method can’t be used in the northern part of the United States.
First: The two-foot drains would be liable to be frozen up solid, every winter.
First: The two-foot drains would probably freeze solid every winter.
Secondly: The subsoil plow, now coming into use among our best cultivators, runs to so great a depth as to be likely to entirely destroy two-foot drains at the first operation, even if it were not intended to run the sub-soiler to a greater general depth than eighteen inches. Any one who has had experience in holding a subsoil-plow,[46] must know that it is an implement somewhat unmanageable, and liable to plunge deep into soft spots like the covering over drains; so that no skill or care could render its use safe over two-foot drains.
Secondly: The subsoil plow, which is now being used by our best farmers, digs so deeply that it can completely destroy two-foot drains during the first pass, even if it’s not meant to go deeper than eighteen inches. Anyone who has ever used a subsoil plow, [46], knows that it’s a bit tricky to handle and prone to sinking into soft areas like the ground covering drains; therefore, no amount of skill or attention can make its use safe over two-foot drains.
The history of drainage in America, is soon given. It begins here, as it must begin everywhere, when practiced as a general system, with the introduction of tiles.
The history of drainage in America is quickly summarized. It starts here, as it must start everywhere, when used as a general system, with the introduction of tiles.
In 1835, Mr. John Johnston, of Seneca County, New York, a Scotchman by birth, imported from Scotland patterns of drain-tiles, and caused them to be made by hand-labor, and set the example of their use on his own farm. The effects of Mr. Johnston's operations were so striking, that in 1848, John Delafield, Esq., for a long time President of the Seneca County Agricultural Society, imported from England one of Scragg's Patent Tile machines. From that time, tile-draining in that county, and in the neighboring counties, has been diligently and profitably pursued. Several interesting statements of successful experiments by Mr. Johnston, Mr. Delafield, Mr. Theron G. Yeomans of Wayne County, and others, have been published, from time to time, in the "New York Transactions." Indeed, most of our information of experimental draining in this country, has come from that quarter.
In 1835, Mr. John Johnston from Seneca County, New York, a Scotsman by birth, imported patterns of drain tiles from Scotland, had them made by hand, and demonstrated their use on his own farm. The results of Mr. Johnston's work were so impressive that in 1848, John Delafield, Esq., who was for a long time the President of the Seneca County Agricultural Society, imported one of Scragg's Patent Tile machines from England. Since then, tile draining in that county and neighboring counties has been pursued actively and profitably. Several interesting accounts of successful experiments by Mr. Johnston, Mr. Delafield, Mr. Theron G. Yeomans from Wayne County, and others have been published periodically in the "New York Transactions." In fact, most of our knowledge about experimental draining in this country has come from that source.
Mr. Johnston, for more than twenty years, has made himself useful to the country, and at the same time gained a wide reputation for himself, by occasional publications on the subject of drainage.
Mr. Johnston has been helpful to the country for over twenty years, and at the same time, he's built a strong reputation for himself through occasional writings on drainage.
In addition to this, his practical knowledge of agriculture, and especially of the subject of drainage, has gained for him a competence for his declining years. In this we rejoice; and trust that in these, his latter years, he may be made ever to feel, that even they among us of the friends of agriculture who have not known him personally, are not unmindful of their obligations to him as the leader of a most beneficent enterprise.[47]
Besides this, his hands-on knowledge of farming, especially when it comes to drainage, has provided him with a steady income for his later years. We celebrate this and hope that in these later years, he realizes that even those of us who support agriculture but haven’t met him personally are still well aware of our debts to him as the leader of such a positive initiative.[47]
Tile-works have since been established at various places in New York, at several places in Massachusetts, Ohio, Michigan, and many other States. The first drain-tiles used in New-Hampshire, were brought from Albany, in 1854, by Mr. William Conner, and used on his farm in Exeter, that year; and the following year, the writer brought some from Albany, and laid them on his farm, in the same town.
Tile works have since been set up in various locations in New York, several places in Massachusetts, Ohio, Michigan, and many other states. The first drain tiles used in New Hampshire were brought from Albany in 1854 by Mr. William Conner and used on his farm in Exeter that same year. The following year, the author brought some from Albany and installed them on his farm in the same town.
In 1857, tile-works were put in operation at Exeter; and some 40,000 tiles were made that year.
In 1857, tile factories began operating in Exeter, and about 40,000 tiles were produced that year.
The horse-shoe tiles, we understand, have been generally used in New York. At Albany, and in Massachusetts, the sole-tile has been of late years preferred. We cannot learn that cylindrical pipes have ever been manufactured in this country until the Summer of 1858 when the engineers of the New York Central Park procured them to be made, and laid them, with collars, in their drainage-works there. This is believed to be the first practical introduction into this country of round pipes and collars, which are regarded in England as the most perfect means of drainage.
The horse-shoe tiles have been widely used in New York. Recently, Albany and Massachusetts have preferred sole tiles. We haven't found any evidence that cylindrical pipes were made in this country until the summer of 1858, when the engineers of New York Central Park had them manufactured and installed, with collars, in their drainage systems. This is thought to be the first practical introduction of round pipes and collars in this country, which are considered in England to be the best method for drainage.
Experiments all over the country, in reclaiming bog-meadows, and in draining wet lands with drains of stone and wood, have been attempted, with various success.
Experiments across the country in restoring bog-meadows and draining wetlands using stone and wooden drains have been tried, with mixed results.
Those attempts we regard as merely efforts in the right direction, and rather as evidence of a general conviction of the want, by the American farmer, of a cheap and efficient mode of drainage, than as an introduction of a system of thorough drainage; for—as we think will appear in the course of this work—no system of drainage can be made sufficiently cheap and efficient for general adoption, with other materials than drain-tiles.
Those attempts we see as just steps in the right direction, and more as proof of the widespread belief among American farmers in the need for an affordable and effective drainage method, rather than the start of a complete drainage system; because—as we believe will become clear throughout this work—no drainage system can be made affordable and effective enough for widespread use without using materials like drain tiles.
CHAPTER III[48]
RAIN, EVAPORATION, AND FILTRATION.
Fertilizing Substances in Rain Water.—Amount of Rain Fall in United States—in England.—Tables of Rain Fall.—Number of Rainy Days, and Quantity of Rain each Month.—Snow, how Computed as Water.—Proportion of Rain Evaporated.—What Quantity of Water Dry Soil will Hold.—Dew Point.—How Evaporation Cools Bodies.—Artificial Heat Underground.—Tables of Filtration and Evaporation.
Fertilizing Substances in Rain Water.—Amount of Rainfall in the United States—in England.—Tables of Rainfall.—Number of Rainy Days, and Amount of Rain Each Month.—Snow, how it’s Calculated as Water.—Proportion of Rain that Evaporates.—What Amount of Water Dry Soil Can Hold.—Dew Point.—How Evaporation Cools Objects.—Artificial Heat Underground.—Tables of Filtration and Evaporation.
Although we usually regard drainage as a means of rendering land sufficiently dry for cultivation, that is by no means a comprehensive view of the objects of the operation.
Although we typically see drainage as a way to make land dry enough for farming, that's not the whole picture of what this process aims to achieve.
Rain is the principal source of moisture, and a surplus of moisture is the evil against which we contend in draining. But rain is also a principal source of fertility, not only because it affords the necessary moisture to dissolve the elements of fertility already in the soil, but also because it contains in itself, or brings with it from the atmosphere, valuable fertilizing substances. In a learned article by Mr. Caird, in the Cyclopedia of Agriculture, on the Rotation of Crops, he says:
Rain is the main source of moisture, and too much moisture is the problem we face when it comes to drainage. But rain is also a key source of fertility, not just because it provides the necessary moisture to break down the nutrients already in the soil, but also because it contains valuable fertilizing substances from the atmosphere. In an insightful article by Mr. Caird in the Cyclopedia of Agriculture about Crop Rotation, he mentions:
"The surprising effects of a fallow, even when unaided by any manure, has received some explanation by the recent discovery of Mr. Barral, that rain-water contains within itself, and conveys into the soil, fertilizing substances of the utmost importance, equivalent, in a fall of rain of 24 inches per annum, to the quantity of ammonia contained in 2 cwt. of Peruvian guano, with 150 lbs. of nitrogeneous matter besides, all suited to the nutrition of our crops."
"The surprising effects of leaving land fallow, even without any fertilizer, have been partly explained by the recent discovery by Mr. Barral that rainwater itself contains and delivers essential fertilizing substances into the soil. This is equivalent, in a yearly rainfall of 24 inches, to the amount of ammonia found in 2 hundredweight of Peruvian guano, along with an additional 150 pounds of nitrogenous matter, all of which are beneficial for our crops."
About 42 inches of rain may be taken as a fair general average of the rain-fall in the United States. If this supplies as much ammonia to the soil as 3 cwt. of Peruvian guano to the acre, which is considered a liberal manuring, and which is valuable principally for its ammonia, we at once see the importance of retaining the rain-water long enough upon our fields, at least, to rob it of its treasures. But rain-water has a farther value than has yet been suggested:
About 42 inches of rain can be considered a decent average for rainfall in the United States. If this amount provides as much ammonia to the soil as 3 hundredweight of Peruvian guano per acre, which is seen as generous fertilizing and is particularly valuable for its ammonia, we immediately recognize the importance of keeping rainwater on our fields long enough to extract its benefits. However, rainwater has an additional value that hasn't been mentioned yet:
"Rain-water always contains in solution, air, carbonic acid, and ammonia. The two first ingredients are among the most powerful disintegrators of a soil. The oxygen of the air, and the carbonic acid being both in a highly condensed form, by being dissolved, possess very powerful affinities for the ingredients of the soil. The oxygen attacks and oxydizes the iron; the carbonic acid seizing the lime and potash and other alkaline ingredients of the soil, produces a further disintegration, and renders available the locked-up ingredients of this magazine of nutriment. Before these can be used by plants, they must be rendered soluble; and this is only affected by the free and renewed access of rain and air. The ready passage of both of these, therefore, enables the soil to yield up its concealed nutriment."
"Rainwater always contains dissolved air, carbon dioxide, and ammonia. The first two components are some of the most effective agents for breaking down soil. The oxygen in the air and the carbon dioxide, both in a highly concentrated form when dissolved, have strong attractions to the components of the soil. The oxygen reacts and oxidizes the iron, while the carbon dioxide interacts with the lime, potash, and other alkaline substances in the soil, leading to further breakdown and making the nutrients that were previously locked away available. Before plants can use these nutrients, they need to be made soluble, which can only happen through the ongoing infiltration of rain and air. The easy movement of both of these elements allows the soil to release its hidden nutrients."
We see, then, that the rains of heaven bring us not only water, but food for our plants, and that, while we would remove by proper drainage the surplus moisture, we should take care to first conduct it through the soil far enough to fulfill its mission of fertility. We cannot suppose that all rain-water brings to our fields precisely the same proportion of the elements of fertility, because the foreign properties with which it is charged, must continually vary with the condition of the atmosphere through which it falls, whether it be the thick and murky cloud which overhangs the coal-burning city, or the transparent ether of the mountain tops. We may see, too, by the tables, that the quantity of rain that falls, varies much, not only with the varying seasons of the year, and with the different seasons of different years, but with the distance[50] from the equator, the diversity of mountain and river, and lake and wood, and especially with locality as to the ocean. Yet the average results of nature's operations through a series of years, are startlingly constant and uniform, and we may deduce from tables of rain-falls, as from bills of mortality and tables of longevity, conclusions almost as reliable as from mathematical premises.
We see, then, that the rains from the sky provide us not only with water but also with nourishment for our plants. While we want to remove excess moisture with proper drainage, we should first ensure it moves through the soil enough to serve its purpose of enriching the land. We can’t assume that all rainwater adds the same amount of nutrients to our fields, as the various impurities it carries will change depending on the atmospheric conditions it passes through, whether it’s the thick, polluted clouds hovering over a coal-burning city or the clear air at mountain peaks. We can also see from the tables that the amount of rainfall varies significantly, not just with the changing seasons of each year, but also with different years and based on how far we are from the equator, as well as the variety of mountains, rivers, lakes, and forests, and especially in relation to the ocean. Yet, the average results of nature's processes over several years are remarkably stable and consistent, and we can draw conclusions from rainfall data that are almost as reliable as those derived from statistics on mortality and longevity.
The quantity of rain is generally increased by the locality of mountain ranges. "Thus, at the Edinburgh Water Company's works, on the Pentland Hills, there fell in 1849, nearly twice as much rain as at Edinburgh, although the distance between the two places is only seven miles."
The amount of rain is usually higher in areas near mountain ranges. "For example, at the Edinburgh Water Company's facilities on the Pentland Hills, in 1849, it rained nearly twice as much as it did in Edinburgh, even though the distance between the two locations is only seven miles."
Although a much greater quantity of rain falls in mountainous districts (within certain limits of elevation) than in the plains, yet a greater quantity of rain falls at the surface of the ground than at an elevation of a few hundred feet. Thus, from experiments which were carefully made at York, it was ascertained that there fell eight and a half inches more rain at the surface of the ground, in the course of twelve months, than at the top of the Minster, which is 212 feet high. Similar results have been obtained in many other places.
Although a lot more rain falls in mountainous areas (within certain heights) than in flatlands, more rain actually falls at ground level than just a few hundred feet up. For instance, careful experiments conducted in York showed that 8.5 inches more rain fell at ground level over twelve months compared to the top of the Minster, which is 212 feet tall. Similar findings have been observed in many other locations.
Some observations upon this point may also be found in the Report of the Smithsonian Institution for 1855, at p. 210, given by Professor C. W. Morris, of New York.
Some observations on this point can also be found in the Report of the Smithsonian Institution for 1855, on p. 210, provided by Professor C. W. Morris from New York.
Again, the evaporation from the surface of water being much greater than from the land, clouds that are wafted by the winds from the sea to the land, condense their vapor upon the colder hills and mountain sides, and yield rain, so that high lands near the sea or other large bodies of water, from which the winds generally blow, have a greater proportion of rainy days and a greater fall of rain than lands more remote from water. The annual rain-fall in the lake districts in Cumberland County, in England, sometimes amounts to more than 150 inches.[51]
Again, because water evaporates from its surface much more than from land, clouds blown by winds from the sea toward the land condense their moisture on the cooler hills and mountains, resulting in rain. This means that higher lands near the sea or other large bodies of water, which are typically where the winds come from, have more rainy days and more rainfall compared to areas farther away from water. In the lake districts of Cumberland County, England, the annual rainfall can sometimes exceed 150 inches.[51]
With a desire to contribute as much as possible to the stock of accurate knowledge on this subject, we availed ourselves of the kindly offered services of our friends, Shedd and Edson, in preparing a carefully considered article upon a part of our general subject, which has much engaged their attention. Neither the article itself, nor the observations of Dr. Hobbs, which form a part of its basis, has ever before been published, and we believe our pages cannot be better occupied than by giving them in the language of our friends:
With the goal of contributing as much as we can to the pool of accurate knowledge on this topic, we took advantage of the generous help from our friends, Shedd and Edson, to prepare a well-thought-out article on a specific aspect of our general subject, which they have devoted a lot of attention to. Neither the article itself nor the comments from Dr. Hobbs, which are part of its foundation, have ever been published before, and we believe our pages are best used by sharing them in the words of our friends:
"All vegetables, in the various stages of growth, require warmth, air, and moisture, to support life and health.
"All vegetables, at different stages of growth, need warmth, air, and moisture to stay alive and healthy."
Below the surface of the ground there is a body of stagnant water, sometimes at a great depth, but in retentive soils usually within a foot or two of the surface. This stagnant water not only excludes the air, but renders the soil much colder, and, being in itself of no benefit, without warmth and air, its removal to a greater depth is very desirable.
Below the surface of the ground, there is a body of stagnant water, sometimes found deep down, but in soils that hold moisture, it's usually just a foot or two beneath the surface. This stagnant water not only cuts off the air but also makes the soil much colder. Since this water doesn't provide any benefits on its own, its removal to a greater depth is highly desirable, especially when there's a lack of warmth and air.
A knowledge of the depth to which this water-table should be removed, and of the means of removing it, constitutes the science of draining, and in its discussion, a knowledge of the rain-fall, humidity of the atmosphere, and amount of evaporation, is very important.
A understanding of how deep this water-table needs to be lowered, and how to achieve that, makes up the science of draining. In discussing this, it's crucial to know about rainfall, humidity in the atmosphere, and the rate of evaporation.
The amount of rain-fall, as shown by the hyetal, or rain-chart, of North America, by Lorin Blodget, is thirty inches vertical depth in the basin of the great lakes; thirty-two inches on Lake Erie and Lake Champlain; thirty-six inches in the valley of the Hudson, on the head waters of the Ohio, through the middle portions of Pennsylvania and Virginia, and western portion of North Carolina; forty inches in the extreme eastern and the northern portion of Maine, northern portions of New Hampshire and Vermont, south-eastern counties of Massachusetts,[52] Central New York, north-east portion of Pennsylvania, south-east portion of New Jersey and Delaware; also, on a narrow belt running down from the western portion of Maryland, through Virginia and North Carolina, to the north-western portion of South Carolina; thence, up through the western portion of Virginia, north-east portion of Ohio, Northern Indiana and Illinois, to Prairie du Chien; forty-two inches on the east coast of Maine, Eastern Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, and middle portion of Maryland; thence, on a narrow belt to South Carolina; thence, up through Eastern Tennessee, through Central Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, to Iowa; thence, down through Western Missouri and Texas to the Gulf of Mexico; forty-five inches from Concord, New Hampshire, through Worcester, Mass., Western Connecticut, and the City of New York, to the Susquehanna River, just north of Maryland; also, at Richmond, Va., Raleigh, N. C., Augusta, Geo., Knoxville, Tenn., Indianopolis, Ind., Springfield, Ill., St. Louis, Mo.; thence, through Western Arkansas, across Red River to the Gulf of Mexico. From the belt just described, the rain-fall increases inland and southward, until at Mobile, Ala., the rain-fall is sixty-three inches. The same amount also falls in the extreme southern portion of Florida.
The amount of rainfall, as shown by the rainfall chart of North America by Lorin Blodget, is thirty inches in the Great Lakes basin; thirty-two inches on Lake Erie and Lake Champlain; thirty-six inches in the Hudson Valley, in the headwaters of the Ohio River, through the central areas of Pennsylvania and Virginia, and the western part of North Carolina; forty inches in the far eastern and northern parts of Maine, northern New Hampshire and Vermont, southeastern counties of Massachusetts, Central New York, northeast Pennsylvania, southeast New Jersey, and Delaware; also, on a narrow strip running from the western part of Maryland, through Virginia and North Carolina, to the northwestern part of South Carolina; then, up through the western part of Virginia, northeast Ohio, northern Indiana and Illinois, to Prairie du Chien; forty-two inches on the east coast of Maine, eastern Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, and the central part of Maryland; then, on a narrow strip to South Carolina; then, up through eastern Tennessee, central Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, to Iowa; then, down through western Missouri and Texas to the Gulf of Mexico; forty-five inches from Concord, New Hampshire, through Worcester, Massachusetts, western Connecticut, and New York City, to the Susquehanna River, just north of Maryland; also, in Richmond, Virginia, Raleigh, North Carolina, Augusta, Georgia, Knoxville, Tennessee, Indianapolis, Indiana, Springfield, Illinois, and St. Louis, Missouri; then, through western Arkansas, crossing the Red River to the Gulf of Mexico. From the area just described, rainfall increases inland and southward, until at Mobile, Alabama, the rainfall reaches sixty-three inches. The same amount also falls in the southernmost part of Florida.
In England, the average rain-fall in the eastern portion is represented at twenty inches; in the middle portion, twenty-two inches; in the southern and western, thirty inches; in the extreme south-western, forty-five inches; and in Wales, fifty inches. In the eastern portion of Ireland, it is twenty-five inches; and in the western, forty inches.
In England, the average rainfall in the eastern part is about twenty inches; in the middle part, it's twenty-two inches; in the southern and western areas, thirty inches; in the far south-west, forty-five inches; and in Wales, fifty inches. In the eastern part of Ireland, it’s twenty-five inches; and in the west, forty inches.
Observations at London for forty years, by Dalton, gave average fall of 20.69 inches. Observations at New Bedford, Mass., for forty-three years, by S. Rodman, gave average fall of 41.03 inches—about double the amount in[53] London. The mean quantity for each month, at both places, is as follows:
Observations in London over forty years by Dalton showed an average rainfall of 20.69 inches. Observations in New Bedford, Mass., for forty-three years by S. Rodman showed an average rainfall of 41.03 inches—about double that in [53] London. The average amount for each month at both locations is as follows:
New Bedford. | London. | |
---|---|---|
January | 3.36 | 1.46 |
February | 3.32 | 1.25 |
March | 3.44 | 1.17 |
April | 3.60 | 1.28 |
May | 3.63 | 1.64 |
June | 2.71 | 1.74 |
July | 2.86 | 2.45 |
August | 3.61 | 1.81 |
September | 3.33 | 1.84 |
October | 3.46 | 2.09 |
November | 3.97 | 2.22 |
December | 3.74 | 1.74 |
Spring | 10.67 | 4.09 |
Summer | 9.18 | 6.00 |
Autumn | 10.76 | 6.15 |
Winter | 10.42 | 4.45 |
Year | 41.03 | 20.69 |
Another very striking difference between the two countries is shown by a comparison of the quantity of water falling in single days. The following table, given in the Radcliffe Observatory Reports, Oxford, England, 15th volume, shows the proportion of very light rains there. The observation was in the year 1854. Rain fell on 156 days:
Another noticeable difference between the two countries is highlighted by comparing the amount of rain that falls in a single day. The following table, found in the Radcliffe Observatory Reports, Oxford, England, 15th volume, shows the proportion of very light rains there. The observation was made in 1854. Rain fell on 156 days:
73 | days gave | less than | .05 | inch. | ||
30 | " | between | that | and | .10 | " |
27 | " | between | .10 | " | .20 | " |
9 | " | " | .20 | " | .30 | " |
9 | " | " | .30 | " | .40 | " |
4 | " | " | .40 | " | .50 | " |
1 | gave | .60 | " | |||
2 | " | .80 | " | |||
1 | " | 1.00 | " |
[54]Nearly half the number gave less fall than five-hundredths of an inch, and more than four-fifths the number gave less than one-fifth of an inch, and none gave over an inch.
[54]Nearly half of the responses were less than five-hundredths of an inch, more than four-fifths were under one-fifth of an inch, and none exceeded an inch.
There is more rain in the United States, by a large measure, than there; but the amount falls in less time, and the average of saturation is certainly much less here. From manuscript records, furnished us by Dr. Hobbs, of Waltham, Mass., we find, that the quantity falling in the year 1854, was equal to the average quantity for thirty years, and that rain fell on fifty-four days, in the proportion as follows:
There is way more rain in the United States compared to there, but it comes down in a shorter amount of time, and the average level of saturation is definitely much lower here. From manuscript records provided by Dr. Hobbs of Waltham, Mass., we find that the total rain in 1854 was equal to the average amount over thirty years, and that rain fell on fifty-four days, in the following proportions:
Number of rainy days, 54; total rain-fall, 41.29.
Number of rainy days: 54; total rainfall: 41.29.
0 | days gave | less than | .05 | inch. | ||
2 | " | between | that | and | .10 | " |
8 | " | between | .10 | " | .20 | " |
7 | " | " | .20 | " | .30 | " |
5 | " | " | .30 | " | .40 | " |
4 | " | " | .40 | " | .50 | " |
2 | " | " | .50 | " | .60 | " |
4 | " | " | .60 | " | .70 | " |
4 | " | " | .70 | " | .80 | " |
3 | " | " | .80 | " | .90 | " |
0 | " | " | .90 | " | 1.00 | " |
0 | " | " | 1.00 | " | 1.10 | " |
2 | " | " | 1.10 | " | 1.20 | " |
1 | " | " | 1.20 | " | 1.30 | " |
1 | " | " | 1.30 | " | 1.40 | " |
3 | " | " | 1.40 | " | 1.50 | " |
2 | " | " | 1.50 | " | 1.60 | " |
1 | " | " | 1.60 | " | 1.70 | " |
2 | " | " | 1.80 | " | 1.90 | " |
1 | " | " | 2.30 | " | 2.40 | " |
1 | " | " | 2.50 | " | 2.60 | " |
1 | " | " | 3.20 | " | 3.30 | " |
No rain-fall gave less than five-hundredths of an inch; and more than one-fourth the number of days gave more[55] than one inch. In 1850, four years earlier, the rain-fall for the year, in Waltham, was 62.13 inches, the greatest recorded by observations kept since 1824. It fell as shown in the table:
No rainfall was less than five-hundredths of an inch, and more than one-fourth of the days had over one inch of rain.[55] In 1850, four years earlier, the total rainfall for the year in Waltham was 62.13 inches, the highest recorded since observations began in 1824. It fell as shown in the table:
Number of rainy days, 58; total rain-fall, 62.13.
Number of rainy days: 58; total rainfall: 62.13.
3 | days gave between | .05 | and | .10 | inches. |
4 | " | .10 | " | .20 | " |
6 | " | .20 | " | .30 | " |
3 | " | .30 | " | .40 | " |
5 | " | .40 | " | .50 | " |
3 | " | .50 | " | .60 | " |
3 | " | .60 | " | .70 | " |
3 | " | .70 | " | .80 | " |
2 | " | .80 | " | .90 | " |
1 | " | .90 | " | 1.00 | " |
3 | " | 1.00 | " | 1.10 | " |
7 | " | 1.20 | " | 1.30 | " |
2 | " | 1.80 | " | 1.90 | " |
2 | " | 1.90 | " | 2.00 | " |
3 | " | 2.00 | " | 2.10 | " |
2 | " | 2.10 | " | 2.20 | " |
1 | " | 2.30 | " | 2.40 | " |
1 | " | 2.50 | " | 2.60 | " |
1 | " | 2.60 | " | 2.70 | " |
1 | " | 2.80 | " | 2.90 | " |
1 | " | 3.60 | " | 3.70 | " |
1 | " | 4.50 | " | 4.60 | " |
Sept. 7th and 8th, in 24 hours, 6.88 inches of rain fell, the greatest quantity recorded in one day.
Sept. 7th and 8th, in 24 hours, 6.88 inches of rain fell, the most recorded in a single day.
In 1846—still earlier by four years—the rain-fall in Waltham was 26.90 inches—the least recorded by the same observations. It fell, as shown in the table: Number of rainy days, 49; total rain-fall, 26.90.
In 1846—four years earlier—the rainfall in Waltham was 26.90 inches—the lowest recorded by the same observations. It fell, as shown in the table: Number of rainy days, 49; total rainfall, 26.90.
3 | days gave between | .05 | and | .10 | inches. |
7 | " | .10 | " | .20 | " |
10 | " | .20 | " | .30 | " |
6 | " | .30 | " | .40 | " |
[56] 4 | " | .40 | " | .50 | " |
3 | " | .50 | " | .60 | " |
2 | " | .70 | " | .80 | " |
3 | " | .80 | " | .90 | " |
1 | " | .90 | " | 1.00 | " |
3 | " | 1.00 | " | 1.10 | " |
2 | " | 1.10 | " | 1.20 | " |
1 | " | 1.20 | " | 1.30 | " |
2 | " | 1.40 | " | 1.50 | " |
1 | " | 1.50 | " | 1.60 | " |
1 | " | 2.40 | " | 2.50 | " |
The rain-fall in 1852 was very near the average for thirty years; and the quantity falling in single storms, on sixty-three different occasions, as registered by Dr. Hobbs, was as follows: Number of storms, 63; total rain-fall, 42.24.
The rainfall in 1852 was almost the same as the average for the past thirty years; and the amount that fell during individual storms, on sixty-three different occasions, recorded by Dr. Hobbs, was as follows: Number of storms, 63; total rainfall, 42.24.
7 | storms gave | less than | .10 | inches. | ||||
11 | " | between | .10 | and | .20 | " | ||
9 | " | " | .20 | " | .30 | " | ||
5 | " | " | .30 | " | .40 | " | ||
6 | " | " | .40 | " | .50 | " | ||
5 | " | " | .50 | " | .60 | " | ||
1 | " | " | .60 | " | .70 | " | ||
1 | " | " | .70 | " | .80 | " | ||
3 | " | " | .80 | " | .90 | " | ||
1 | " | " | .90 | " | 1.00 | " | ||
5 | " | " | 1.00 | " | 1.10 | " | ||
1 | " | " | 1.10 | " | 1.20 | " | ||
1 | " | " | 1.20 | " | 1.30 | " | ||
1 | " | " | 1.40 | " | 1.50 | " | ||
3 | " | " | 1.60 | " | 1.70 | " | ||
1 | " | in | 5 | days | 3.16 | " | ||
1 | " | " | 4 | " | 4.38 | " | ||
1 | " | " | 6 | " | 5.35 | " |
These tables are sufficient to show that provision must be made to carry off much greater quantities of water from lands in this country than in England. We add a table of the greatest fall of rain in any one day, for each month, and for the year, from April, 1824, to 1st January,[57] 1859. It also was abstracted from the manuscript of observations by Dr. Hobbs, and will be, we think, quite useful:
These tables clearly show that we need to be prepared to manage much larger amounts of water from land in this country than in England. We’ve included a table showing the highest amount of rainfall in a single day for each month and for the entire year, from April 1824 to January 1,[57] 1859. This data was taken from Dr. Hobbs' observation manuscript and we believe it will be quite useful:
Years | January | February | March | April | May | June | July | August | September | October | November | December | Greatest Fall in the Year |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1824 | 0.76 | 0.67 | 0.53 | 0.44 | 1.90 | 2.54 | 0.81 | 0.76 | 1.80 | 2.54 | |||
1825 | 2.16 | 2.61 | 0.27 | 1.23 | 1.37 | 0.91 | 2.51 | 0.89 | 1.32 | 0.71 | 2.40 | 2.61 | |
1826 | 1.80 | 0.56 | 1.67 | 0.89 | 0.39 | 1.78 | 0.87 | 1.80 | 1.57 | 1.37 | 1.22 | 1.41 | 1.87 |
1827 | 3.81 | 1.55 | 2.42 | 0.66 | 1.36 | 3.16 | 4.93 | 2.22 | 3.85 | 1.39 | 4.93 | ||
1828 | 0.60 | 1.48 | 1.82 | 2.06 | 2.01 | 1.44 | 1.52 | 0.14 | 1.82 | 1.52 | 1.90 | 0.29 | 2.06 |
1829 | 3.86 | 1.98 | 4.12 | 2.35 | 1.15 | 0.97 | 1.92 | 0.97 | 1.39 | 1.00 | 1.25 | 1.58 | 4.12 |
1830 | 1.31 | 1.17 | 2.68 | 2.28 | 0.78 | 1.84 | 2.45 | 2.40 | 1.20 | 2.64 | 2.44 | 2.68 | |
1831 | 0.64 | 1.48 | 2.32 | 2.12 | 1.79 | 1.87 | 2.27 | 1.00 | 1.00 | 2.82 | 1.24 | 0.15 | 2.82 |
1832 | 2.68 | 1.59 | 2.00 | 4.48 | 2.52 | 1.24 | 2.13 | 0.80 | 1.50 | 2.60 | 1.34 | 4.48 | |
1833 | 0.83 | 2.57 | 0.98 | 2.03 | 1.42 | 0.64 | 2.75 | 2.32 | 3.12 | 1.27 | 3.12 | ||
1834 | 0.64 | 1.31 | 0.94 | 2.35 | 1.87 | 2.12 | 0.73 | 1.25 | 1.89 | 2.42 | 0.92 | 2.42 | |
1835 | 1.44 | 0.88 | 2.48 | 2.48 | 1.18 | 1.52 | 4.72 | 1.32 | 1.57 | 3.28 | 0.74 | 2.32 | 4.72 |
1836 | 2.72 | 3.04 | 2.26 | 1.86 | 1.29 | 2.24 | 1.04 | 0.72 | 0.36 | 2.04 | 1.50 | 1.68 | 3.04 |
1837 | 3.62 | 1.50 | 1.14 | 1.68 | 1.46 | 1.30 | 0.72 | 0.78 | 0.66 | 1.46 | 0.81 | 1.68 | 3.62 |
1838 | 1.64 | 0.75 | 0.76 | 1.32 | 1.40 | 1.67 | 0.82 | 1.40 | 3.84 | 1.10 | 2.46 | 1.00 | 3.84 |
1839 | 0.70 | 0.80 | 0.58 | 4.06 | 2.98 | 0.94 | 1.08 | 3.54 | 0.70 | 1.60 | 0.80 | 1.92 | 4.06 |
1840 | 1.68 | 2.20 | 1.54 | 2.12 | 1.16 | 1.08 | 1.40 | 2.72 | 1.28 | 1.04 | 3.72 | 1.12 | 3.72 |
1841 | 1.44 | 1.12 | 1.32 | 1.64 | 0.90 | 0.75 | 0.64 | 2.82 | 2.78 | 2.66 | 1.05 | 1.70 | 2.82 |
1842 | 0.54 | 1.22 | 1.16 | 0.64 | 0.47 | 2.10 | 0.68 | 1.44 | 0.96 | 0.34 | 1.10 | 2.02 | 2.10 |
1843 | 1.60 | 1.64 | 2.50 | 1.34 | 0.34 | 1.04 | 1.98 | 2.58 | 0.52 | 1.94 | 1.28 | 2.58 | |
1844 | 4.14 | 2.06 | 0.24 | 0.58 | 0.78 | 0.86 | 1.34 | 1.76 | 2.30 | 1.86 | 1.28 | 4.14 | |
1845 | 2.42 | 1.70 | 1.14 | 0.70 | 1.02 | 1.03 | 1.20 | 1.66 | 0.88 | 1.16 | 3.32 | 1.46 | 3.32 |
1846 | 1.54 | 2.46 | 1.16 | 1.18 | 0.82 | 1.46 | 0.49 | 0.56 | 0.55 | 0.54 | 1.02 | 2.46 | |
1847 | 1.18 | 2.74 | 1.66 | 1.12 | 0.84 | 1.28 | 0.56 | 1.86 | 2.16 | 0.64 | 2.74 | 3.02 | 3.02 |
1848 | 1.44 | 1.56 | 2.68 | 0.68 | 2.28 | 1.00 | 0.72 | 1.24 | 1.48 | 2.96 | 0.88 | 1.00 | 2.96 |
1849 | 1.36 | 0.40 | 2.30 | 0.92 | 1.28 | 0.72 | 1.52 | 2.08 | 1.12 | 2.60 | 2.48 | 1.76 | 2.60 |
1850 | 2.56 | 1.92 | 1.84 | 2.68 | 2.80 | 1.20 | 1.20 | 3.68 | 6.88 | 1.04 | 2.16 | 1.92 | 6.88 |
1851 | 0.80 | 1.84 | 0.56 | 3.60 | 1.92 | 1.12 | 0.96 | 0.32 | 1.15 | 1.47 | 2.25 | 0.89 | 3.60 |
1852 | 1.06 | 0.88 | 1.15 | 4.38 | 1.47 | 1.69 | 0.66 | 4.16 | 1.19 | 1.61 | 1.59 | 0.89 | 4.38 |
1853 | 0.92 | 1.33 | 1.03 | 1.12 | 2.39 | 0.42 | 1.03 | 2.36 | 2.14 | 1.95 | 1.67 | 1.35 | 2.39 |
1854 | 0.83 | 1.60 | 1.25 | 1.88 | 2.57 | 1.50 | 1.58 | 0.48 | 2.33 | 1.82 | 3.25 | 1.43 | 3.25 |
1855 | 3.37 | 3.08 | 0.80 | 1.33 | 0.39 | 1.23 | 1.93 | 0.75 | 0.70 | 1.77 | 2.22 | 1.24 | 3.37 |
1856 | 1.30 | 0.63 | 1.97 | 2.93 | 0.66 | 1.30 | 4.23 | 2.42 | 0.87 | 0.88 | 1.20 | 4.23 | |
1857 | 1.50 | 0.54 | 1.55 | 3.68 | 1.28 | 0.96 | 2.43 | 2.00 | 0.87 | 3.54 | 0.67 | 1.28 | 3.68 |
1858 | 1.12 | 1.18 | 0.35 | 1.28 | 1.00 | 3.86 | 1.35 | 2.21 | 1.64 | 1.22 | 1.36 | 1.40 | 3.86 |
[58]The following table shows the record of rain-fall, as kept for one year; it was selected as a representative year, the total quantity falling being equal to the average. For the year 1840: Number of rainy days, 50; total rain-fall, 42.00.
[58]The table below shows the rainfall record for one year; it was chosen as a typical year, with the total amount of rain being equal to the average. For the year 1840: Number of rainy days, 50; total rainfall, 42.00.
Days | January 1840 |
February | March | April | May | June | July | August | September | October | November | December |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 0.55 | 0.14 | 2.72 | 0.64 | ||||||||
2 | 0.08 | 0.05 | ||||||||||
3 | 0.32 | |||||||||||
4 | 1.08 | 0.10 | ||||||||||
5 | 1.16 | 0.63 | ||||||||||
6 | 0.50 | |||||||||||
7 | ||||||||||||
8 | 0.20 | |||||||||||
9 | 0.25 | 3.72 | ||||||||||
10 | 2.20 | 1.28 | ||||||||||
11 | 0.10 | |||||||||||
12 | 2.12 | 0.54 | ||||||||||
13 | 0.14 | 1.12 | ||||||||||
14 | 0.58 | 0.70 | ||||||||||
15 | 0.36 | |||||||||||
16 | ||||||||||||
17 | ||||||||||||
18 | ||||||||||||
19 | 0.82 | 0.24 | 0.68 | 1.04 | ||||||||
20 | 1.54 | 0.44 | ||||||||||
21 | 0.98 | 1.04 | ||||||||||
22 | 0.52 | 2.20 | ||||||||||
23 | 1.68 | 0.96 | 0.18 | |||||||||
24 | 1.40 | |||||||||||
25 | 0.16 | 0.35 | ||||||||||
26 | 0.18 | |||||||||||
27 | 0.17 | 0.30 | ||||||||||
28 | ||||||||||||
29 | 1.80 | 0.10 | 1.40 | |||||||||
30 | 1.42 | 0.08 | 1.04 | |||||||||
31 | ||||||||||||
Total | 1.68 | 2.78 | 3.28 | 5.17 | 2.28 | 2.41 | 2.09 | 5.22 | 2.89 | 3.65 | 7.35 | 3.20 |
[59]The average quantity of rain which has fallen in Waltham, during the important months of vegetation, from 1824 to 1858 inclusive—a period of thirty-five years—is for—
[59]From 1824 to 1858, a span of thirty-five years, the average amount of rainfall in Waltham during the crucial growing months is—
April. | May. | June. | July. | Aug. | Sept. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
3.96 | 3.71 | 3.18 | 3.38 | 4.50 | 3.52 |
Average for the six months, 22.25. |
It will be noticed, that the average for the month of August is about 33 per cent. larger than for June and July. The quantity of rain falling in each month, as registered at the Cambridge Observatory, is as follows:
It will be noted that the average for the month of August is about 33 percent larger than for June and July. The amount of rain falling in each month, as recorded at the Cambridge Observatory, is as follows:
Jan. | Feb. | Mar. | Apr. | May. | June. | July. | Aug. | Sept. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. |
2.39 | 3.19 | 3.47 | 3.64 | 3.74 | 3.13 | 2.57 | 5.47 | 4.27 | 3.73 | 4.57 | 4.31 |
Spring. | Summer. | Autumn. | Winter. | ||||||||
10.85 | 11.17 | 12.57 | 9.89 | ||||||||
Average quantity per year, 44.48. |
The quantity falling from January to July, is much less than falls from July to January.
The amount that drops from January to July is much less than what falls from July to January.
The great quantity of snow which falls in New England during the Winter months, and is carried off mainly in the Spring, usually floods the low lands, and should be taken into account in establishing the size of pipe to be used in a system of drainage. The following observations of the average depth of snow, have been made at the places cited, and are copied, by Blodget, from various published notices:
The large amount of snow that falls in New England during the winter months, which mostly melts in the spring, often floods the lowlands and should be considered when determining the size of pipes for a drainage system. The following observations of the average snow depth were recorded at the locations mentioned and are taken from various published reports by Blodget:
Oxford Co., Me. | 12 | years | 90 | inches | per year. |
Dover, N. H. | 10 | " | 68.6 | " | " |
Montreal | 10 | " | 67 | " | " |
Burlington, Vt. | 10 | " | 85 | " | " |
Worcester, Mass. | 12 | " | 55 | " | " |
Amherst, " | 7 | " | 54 | " | " |
Hartford, Conn. | 24 | " | 43 | " | " |
Lambertville, N. J. | 8 | " | 25.5 | " | " |
Cincinnati | 16 | " | 19 | " | " |
Burlington, Iowa | 4 | " | 15.5 | " | " |
Beloit, Wisconsin | 3 | " | 25 | " | " |
[60]One-tenth the depth of snow is taken as its equivalent in water, for general purposes, though it gives too small a quantity of water in southern latitudes, and in extreme latitudes too great a quantity. The rule of reduction of snow to water, in cold climates, is one inch of water to twelve of snow.
[60]One-tenth of the snow's depth is used as its equivalent in water for general purposes, even though it underestimates the amount in southern climates and overestimates it in extreme latitudes. The standard for converting snow to water in cold climates is one inch of water for every twelve inches of snow.
The proportion of the annual downfall of rain which is collectable into reservoirs—or, in other words, the per-centage of the rain-fall which drains off—is well shown in a table used by Ellwood Morris, Esq., C. E., in an article on "The Proposed Improvement of the Ohio River" (Jour. Frank. Inst., Jan., 1858), in which we find, that, in eighteen series of observations in Great Britain, the ratio, or per cent. of the rain-fall which drains off is 65½, or nearly two-thirds the rain-fall.
The percentage of annual rainfall that can be collected in reservoirs—or, in other words, the portion of rainfall that drains away—is clearly illustrated in a table used by Ellwood Morris, Esq., C.E., in his article "The Proposed Improvement of the Ohio River" (Jour. Frank. Inst., Jan., 1858). In this, we see that, across eighteen series of observations in Great Britain, the percentage of rainfall that drains off is 65½, or nearly two-thirds of the total rainfall.
Seven series of observations in America are cited as follows:
Seven series of observations in America are cited as follows:
No. | Name of Drainage Area. |
Annual rain-fall, in inches. |
Drainage flowing away, in inches. |
Ratio, or per ct. of the rain which drains off. |
Authorities. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Schuylkill Navigation Reservoirs | 36 | 18 | 50 | Morris and Smith. |
2 | Eaton Brook | 34 | 23 | 66 | McAlpine. |
3 | Madison Brook | 35 | 18 | 50 | McAlpine. |
4 | Patroon's Brook | 46 | 25 | 55 | McAlpine. |
5 | Patroon's Brook | 42 | 18 | 42 | McAlpine. |
6 | Long Pond | 40 | 18 | 44 | Boston Water Com'rs. |
7 | West Fork Reservoir | 36 | 14 | 40 | W. Milnor Roberts. |
Totals | 269 | 134 | 347 | ||
Averages | 38 | 19 | 50 |
These examples show an average rain-fall of thirty-eight vertical inches, and an annual amount, collectable in reservoirs, of nineteen inches, or fifty per cent.
These examples show an average rainfall of thirty-eight inches, and an annual amount that can be collected in reservoirs of nineteen inches, which is fifty percent.
The per-centage of water of drainage from land under-drained[61] with tile, would be greater than that which is collectable in reservoirs from ordinary gathering-grounds.
The percentage of water drained from land that is tile-drained[61] would be higher than what can be collected in reservoirs from typical gathering areas.
If a soil were perfectly saturated with water, that is, held as much water in suspension as possible to hold without draining off, and drains were laid at a proper depth from the surface, and in sufficient number to take off all surplus water, then the entire rain-fall upon the surface would be water of drainage—presuming, of course, the land to be level, and the air at saturation, so as to prevent evaporation. The water coming upon the surface, would force out an equal quantity of water at the bottom, through the drains—the time occupied by the process, varying according to the porous or retentive nature of the soil; but in ordinary circumstances, it would be, perhaps, about forty-eight hours. Drains usually run much longer than this after a heavy rain, and, in fact, many run constantly through the year, but they are supplied from lands at a higher level, either near by or at a distance.
If the soil were completely saturated with water, meaning it held as much water as it could without any running off, and if drains were installed at the right depth and in enough quantity to remove all excess water, then all the rain that falls on the surface would be drainage water—assuming the land is level and the air is fully saturated to prevent evaporation. The water that hits the surface would push out an equal amount of water at the bottom through the drains; the time this takes would depend on whether the soil is porous or retains water well, but typically, it would take about forty-eight hours. Drains usually continue to flow much longer after heavy rain, and in fact, many run constantly throughout the year as they receive water from lands at a higher elevation, either nearby or far away.
If, on the other hand, the soil were perfectly dry, holding no water in suspension, then there would be no water of drainage until the soil had become saturated.
If, however, the soil was completely dry and had no water at all, then there wouldn't be any drainage water until the soil became saturated.
Evaporation is constantly carrying off great quantities of water during the warm months, so that under-drained soil is seldom in the condition of saturation, and, on account of the supply by capillary attraction and by dew, is never thoroughly dry; but the same soil will, at different times, be at various points between saturation and dryness, and the water of drainage will be consequently a greater or less per centage of the rain-fall.
Evaporation continuously removes large amounts of water during the warm months, so under-drained soil rarely stays fully saturated. Due to capillary attraction and dew, it never becomes completely dry; however, the soil will be at different levels of saturation at various times, making the amount of drainage water a varying percentage of the rainfall.
An experiment made by the writer, to ascertain what quantity of water a dry soil would hold in suspension, resulted as follows: A soil was selected of about average porosity, so that the result might be, as nearly as possible, a mean for the various kinds of soil, and dried by several days' baking. The quantity of soil then being carefully[62] measured, a measured quantity of water was supplied slowly, until it began to escape at the bottom. The quantity draining away was measured and deducted from the total quantity supplied. It was thus ascertained that one cubic foot of earth held 0.4826+ cubic feet of water, which is a little more than three and one-half gallons. A dry soil, four feet deep, would hold a body of water equal to a rain-fall of 23.17 inches, vertical depth, which is more than would fall in six months.
An experiment conducted by the writer to determine how much water a dry soil can hold resulted as follows: A soil of average porosity was chosen to ensure the result would be a reliable average for different types of soil and was dried for several days. After carefully measuring the quantity of soil, a specific amount of water was added slowly until it started to leak out from the bottom. The amount that drained away was measured and subtracted from the total amount supplied. It was found that one cubic foot of soil held 0.4826+ cubic feet of water, which is a bit more than three and a half gallons. A dry soil four feet deep could hold enough water equivalent to a rainfall of 23.17 inches, which is more than what would typically fall in six months.
The quantity which is not drained away is used for vegetation or evaporated; and the fact, that the water of drainage is so much greater in proportion to the rain-fall in England than in this country, is owing to the humidity of that climate, in which the evaporation is only about half what it is in this country.
The amount of water that isn’t drained away is used for plants or evaporates; and the fact that the amount of drainage water in England is much greater compared to rainfall in this country is due to the moisture in that climate, where evaporation is only about half of what it is here.
The evaporation from a reservoir surface at Baltimore, during the Summer months, was assumed by Colonel Abert to be to the quantity of rain as two to one.
The evaporation from a reservoir surface in Baltimore during the summer months was assumed by Colonel Abert to be twice the amount of rainfall.
Dr. Holyoke assigns the annual quantity evaporated at Salem, Mass., at fifty-six inches; and Colonel Abert quotes several authorities at Cambridge, Mass., stating the quantity at fifty-six inches. These facts are given by Mr. Blodget, and also the table below.
Dr. Holyoke reports that the annual evaporation rate in Salem, Mass., is fifty-six inches, while Colonel Abert references several sources in Cambridge, Mass., noting the same quantity of fifty-six inches. These details come from Mr. Blodget, along with the table below.
Jan. | Feb. | Mar. | Apr. | May. | June. | July. | Aug. | Sept. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. | Year. | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Whitehaven, England, mean of 6 years |
0.88 | 1.04 | 1.77 | 2.54 | 4.15 | 4.54 | 4.20 | 3.40 | 3.12 | 1.93 | 1.32 | 1.09 | 30.03 |
Ogdensburg, N. Y., 1 yr. | 1.65 | 0.82 | 2.07 | 1.63 | 7.10 | 6.74 | 7.79 | 5.41 | 7.40 | 3.95 | 3.66 | 1.15 | 49.37 |
Syracuse, N. Y., 1 year | 0.67 | 1.48 | 2.24 | 3.42 | 7.31 | 7.60 | 9.08 | 6.85 | 5.33 | 3.02 | 1.33 | 1.86 | 50.20 |
The quantity for Whitehaven, England, is reported by J. F. Miller. It was very carefully observed, from 1843 to 1848—the evaporation being from a copper vessel, protected from rain. The district is one of the wettest of England—the mean quantity of rain, for the same time, having been 45.25 inches.
The amount for Whitehaven, England, is reported by J. F. Miller. It was meticulously recorded from 1843 to 1848, with evaporation measured from a copper vessel shielded from rain. This area is one of the wettest in England, with an average rainfall of 45.25 inches during that period.
This shows a great difference in the capacity of the air[63] to absorb moisture in England and the United States; and as evaporation is a cooling process, there is greater necessity for under-draining in this country than in England, supposing circumstances in other respects to be similar.
This highlights a significant difference in how much moisture the air[63] can absorb in England compared to the United States. Since evaporation cools things down, there's a greater need for under-draining in this country than in England, assuming other conditions are similar.
Evaporation takes place at any point of temperature from 32°, or lower, to 212°—at which water boils. It is increased by heat, but is not caused solely by it—for a north-west wind in New-England evaporates water, and dries the earth more rapidly than the heat alone of a Summer's day; and when, under ordinary circumstances, evaporation from a water-surface is slow, it becomes quite active when brought in close proximity to sulphuric acid, or other vapor-absorbing bodies.
Evaporation occurs at any temperature from 32°F or lower to 212°F, which is when water boils. It's enhanced by heat, but heat isn't the only factor—northwest winds in New England evaporate water and dry out the ground faster than just the heat of a summer day can. Even when evaporation from a water surface is generally slow, it speeds up significantly when it's near sulfuric acid or other substances that absorb vapor.
The cold which follows evaporation is caused by a loss of the heat which is required for evaporation, and which passes off with the vapor, as a solution, in the atmosphere; and as heat leaves the body to aid evaporation, it is evident that that body cannot be cooled by the process, below the dew-point at which evaporation ceases. The popular notion that a body may be cooled almost to the freezing-point, in a hot Summer day, by the action of heat alone, is, then, erroneous. But still, the amount of heat which is used up in evaporating stagnant water from undrained land, that might otherwise go towards warming the land and the roots of crops, is a very serious loss.
The cold that comes after evaporation happens because of the heat that’s needed for evaporation, which escapes with the vapor into the atmosphere. Since heat leaves the body to help with evaporation, it's clear that the body can't be cooled below the dew point, where evaporation stops. The common belief that something can be cooled nearly to freezing on a hot summer day just from the heat action is incorrect. Still, the heat used up in evaporating stagnant water from undrained land, which could otherwise warm the land and the roots of crops, is a significant loss.
The difference in the temperature of a body, resulting from evaporation, may reach 25° in the desert interior of the American continent; but, in the Eastern States, it is not often more than 15°.
The temperature difference in a body caused by evaporation can reach 25° in the dry interior of the American continent; however, in the Eastern States, it usually doesn't exceed 15°.
The temperature of evaporation is the reading of a wet-bulb-thermometer (the bulb being covered with moistened gauze) exposed to the natural evaporation; and the difference between that reading and the reading of a dry-thermometer, is the expression of the cold resulting from evaporation.[64]
The temperature of evaporation is the measurement from a wet-bulb thermometer (with the bulb wrapped in damp gauze) that is open to natural evaporation; the difference between that reading and the reading from a dry thermometer indicates the cooling effect caused by evaporation.[64]
When the air is nearly saturated, the temperature of the air rarely goes above 74°; but, if so, the moisture in the air prevents the passing away of insensible perspiration, and the joint action of heat and humidity exhausts the vital powers, causing sun-stroke, as it is called. At New York city, August 12th to 14th, 1853, the wet-thermometer stood at 80° to 84°; the air, at 90° to 94°. The mortality, from this joint effect, was very great—over two hundred persons losing their lives in the two days, in that city.
When the air is nearly saturated, the temperature rarely rises above 74°F; however, if it does, the humidity in the air prevents the evaporation of insensible perspiration, and the combined impact of heat and humidity can drain vital energy, leading to what is known as sunstroke. In New York City, from August 12th to 14th, 1853, the wet-bulb temperature ranged from 80°F to 84°F, while the air temperature was between 90°F and 94°F. The death toll from this combination was quite high—over two hundred people lost their lives in those two days in the city.
From very careful observations, made by Lorin Blodget, in 1853, at Washington, it was found that the difference between the wet and dry thermometer was 18½° at 4 P. M., June 30th, and 16° at 2 P. M. on July 1st—the temperature of the air being 98° on the first day, and 95° on the second; but such excesses are unusual.
From careful observations by Lorin Blodget in 1853 in Washington, it was found that the difference between the wet and dry thermometer was 18.5° at 4 PM on June 30 and 16° at 2 PM on July 1—the air temperature being 98° on the first day and 95° on the second; however, such extremes are uncommon.
The following table has been compiled from Mr. Blodget's notice of the peculiarities of the Summer of 1853:
The following table has been put together based on Mr. Blodget's observations of the unusual aspects of the Summer of 1853:
The dates are such as were selected to illustrate the extreme temperatures of the month, and the degrees represent the differences between the wet and dry thermometer. The observations were made at 3 P. M.:
The dates were chosen to show the extreme temperatures of the month, and the degrees indicate the differences between the wet and dry thermometers. The observations were taken at 3 PM:
Locality. | Dates. | Differences. | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
June, 1853. | |||||||
Burlington, Vt. | 14th | to | 30th | ranged from | 8° | to | 17° |
Montreal | 14th | to | 30th | " | 6 | to | 17 |
Poultney, Iowa | 10th | to | 30th | " | 9 | to | 16 |
Washington | 20th | to | 30th | " | 8.5 | to | 16 |
Baltimore | 13th | to | 30th | " | 7.4 | to | 20.2 |
Savannah | 13th | to | 30th | " | 5.2 | to | 17.3 |
Austin, Texas | 10th | to | 30th | " | 4 | to | 24 |
Clarkesville, Tenn. | 4th | to | 30th | " | 10.3 | to | 20.5 |
August. | |||||||
Bloomfield, N. J. | 9th | to | 14th | " | 5 | to | 15 |
Austin, Texas | 6th | to | 12th | " | 0 | to | 19 |
Philadelphia | 10th | to | 15th | " | 8 | to | 14 |
Jacksonville, Fla. | 10th | to | 15th | " | 6 | to | 8 |
[65]Observations by Lieut. Gillis, at Washington, give mean differences between wet and dry thermometers, from March, 1841, to June, 1842, as follows:
[65]Lieut. Gillis's observations in Washington show the average differences between wet and dry thermometers from March 1841 to June 1842 as follows:
Observations at 3 P. M.:
Observations at 3 PM:
Jan. | Feb. | Mar. | Apr. | May. | June. | July. | Aug. | Sept. | Oct. | Nov. | Dec. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3°.08 | 4°.40 | 6°.47 | 5°.37 | 7°.05 | 8°.03 | 8°.89 | 5°.29 | 5°.63 | 4°.61 | 4°.77 | 2°.03 |
A mean of observations for twenty-five years at the Radcliffe Observatory, Oxford, England, gives a difference between the wet and dry thermometer equal to about two-thirds the difference, as observed by Lieutenant Gillis, at Washington.
A mean of observations for twenty-five years at the Radcliffe Observatory in Oxford, England, shows a difference between the wet and dry thermometer of about two-thirds the difference observed by Lieutenant Gillis in Washington.
On the 12th day of August, 1853, in Austin, Texas, the air was perfectly saturated at a temperature of 76°, which was the dew-point, or point of the thermometer at which dew began to form. The dew-point varies according to the temperature and the humidity of the atmosphere; it is usually a few degrees lower than the temperature of evaporation—never higher.
On August 12, 1853, in Austin, Texas, the air was completely saturated at a temperature of 76°, which was the dew point—the temperature at which dew starts to form. The dew point changes based on the temperature and humidity in the air; it is typically a few degrees lower than the evaporation temperature—never higher.
From observations made at Girard College, by Prof. A. D. Bache, in the years 1840 to 1845, we find, that for April, 1844, the dew-point ranged from 4° to 16° lower than the temperature of the air; in May, from 4° to 14° lower; in June, from 6° to 20° lower; in July, from 4° to 17°; in August, from 6° to 15° lower; and in September, from 6° to 21° lower. The dew-point is, then, during the important months of vegetation, within about 20° of the temperature of the air. The temperature of the dew-point, as observed by Prof. Bache, was highest in August, 1843, being 66°, and lowest in January, 1844, being 18°; in July, 1844, it was 64°, and in February, 1845, it was 25°. Its hourly changes during each day are quite marked, and follow, with some degree of regularity, the changes in the temperature of the air; their greatest departure from each other being at the hottest hour of the day, which is two or three hours after noon, and the least at the coldest[66] hour which is four or five hours after midnight. The average temperature of the dew-point in April, May, and June, 1844, was, at midnight, 50½°, air, 57°; five hours after midnight, dew-point, 49°, air 54°; three hours after noon, dew-point, 54°, air, 63½°. The average temperature for July, August and September, was, at midnight, dew-point, 58½°, air, 65°; five hours after midnight, dew-point, 58°, air, 62°; three hours after noon, dew-point, 60½°, air, 78°. The average temperature for the year was, at midnight, dew-point, 42°, air, 48°; five hours after midnight, dew-point, 41°, air, 46°; three hours after noon, dew-point, 44½°, air, 59°.
From observations made at Girard College by Prof. A. D. Bache between 1840 and 1845, we find that in April 1844, the dew point ranged from 4° to 16° lower than the air temperature; in May, it was 4° to 14° lower; in June, 6° to 20° lower; in July, 4° to 17° lower; in August, 6° to 15° lower; and in September, 6° to 21° lower. During the key growing months, the dew point stays within about 20° of the air temperature. The dew point temperature, as recorded by Prof. Bache, reached its highest in August 1843 at 66° and its lowest in January 1844 at 18°; in July 1844, it was 64°, and in February 1845, it was 25°. The hourly fluctuations throughout each day are quite noticeable and generally follow the changes in air temperature, with the largest difference occurring during the hottest part of the day, which is two or three hours after noon, and the smallest difference occurring during the coldest hour, four or five hours after midnight. The average dew point temperatures in April, May, and June 1844 were, at midnight, 50½°, with the air at 57°; five hours after midnight, dew point at 49°, air at 54°; and three hours after noon, dew point at 54°, air at 63½°. The average temperatures for July, August, and September were, at midnight, dew point at 58½°, air at 65°; five hours after midnight, dew point at 58°, air at 62°; and three hours after noon, dew point at 60½°, air at 78°. The average temperature for the year was, at midnight, dew point at 42°, air at 48°; five hours after midnight, dew point at 41°, air at 46°; and three hours after noon, dew point at 44½°, air at 59°.
The relative humidity of the atmosphere, or the amount of vapor held in suspension in the air, in proportion to the amount which it might hold, was, in the year 1858, as given in the journal of the Franklin Institute, for
The relative humidity of the atmosphere, or the amount of vapor suspended in the air compared to how much it could hold, was, in the year 1858, as reported in the journal of the Franklin Institute, for
Philadelphia. | Somerset Co. | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
April | 49 | per cent. | — | 2 P. M. |
May | 59 | " | 72 | " |
June | 55 | " | 63 | " |
July | 50 | " | 61 | " |
August | 55 | " | 58 | " |
September | 50 | " | 57 | " |
The saturation often falls to 30 per cent., but with great variability. Evaporation goes on most rapidly when the per centage of saturation is lowest; and, as before observed, the cause of the excess of evaporation in this country over that of England is the excessive humidity of that climate and the dryness of this. It has also been said that there is greater need for drainage in the United States on this account; and, as the warmth induced by draining is somewhat, in its effect, a merchantable product, it may be well to consider it for a moment in that light.
The saturation often drops to 30 percent, but there's a lot of variability. Evaporation happens most quickly when the saturation percentage is lowest; as previously noted, the reason for the higher evaporation rates in this country compared to England is the high humidity of England's climate and the dryness of ours. It's also been said that there's a greater need for drainage in the United States for this reason; and since the warmth generated by draining has some value, it might be useful to think about it that way for a moment.
First: The drained land comes into condition for[67] working, a week or ten days earlier in the Spring than other lands.
First: The drained land is ready for[67] work, about a week or ten days earlier in the Spring than other lands.
Secondly: The growth of the crops is quickened all through the Summer by an increase of several degrees in the temperature of the soil.
Secondly: The growth of the crops speeds up throughout the summer due to a rise of several degrees in the soil temperature.
Thirdly: The injurious effects of frost are kept off several days later in the Fall.
Thirdly: The harmful effects of frost are avoided for several days later in the fall.
Of the value of these conditions, the farmer, who has lost his crops for lack of a few more warm days, may make his own estimates. In Roxbury, Mr. I. P. Rand heats up a portion of his land, for the purpose of raising early plants for the market, by means of hot water carried by iron pipes under the surface of the ground. In this manner he heats an area equal to 100 feet by 12 feet, by burning about one ton of coal a month. The increase of temperature which, in this case, is caused by that amount of coal, can, in the absence of direct measurement, only be estimated; but it, probably, will average about 30°, day and night, throughout the month. In an acre the area is 36.4 times as great as that heated by one ton of coal; the cost being in direct proportion to the area, 36.4 tons of coal would be required to heat an acre; which, at $6 per ton, would cost $217.40. To heat an acre through 10°, would cost, then, $72.47. It may be of interest to consider how much coal would be required to evaporate from an undrained field that amount of water which might be carried off by under-drains, but which, without them, is evaporated from the surface. It may be taken as an approximate estimate, that the evaporation from the surface of an undrained retentive field, is equal to two inches vertical depth of water for each of the months of May, June, July, and August; which is equal to fifty-four thousand three hundred and five gallons, or eight hundred and sixty-two hogsheads per acre for each month. If this quantity of water were evaporated by means of a coal fire,[68] about 22⅔ tons of coal would be consumed, which, at $6 a ton, would cost $136. The cost of evaporating the amount of water which would pass off in one day from an acre would be about $4.53. It is probable that about half as much water would be evaporated from thorough-drained land, though, by some experiments, the proportion has been made greater—in which case the loss of heat resulting from an excess of moisture evaporated from undrained retentive land, over that which would be evaporated from drained land, would be equal to that gained by 11⅓ tons of coal, which would cost $68; and this for each acre, in each of the three months. At whatever temperature a liquid vaporizes, it absorbs the same total quantity of heat.
Of the importance of these conditions, the farmer who has lost his crops due to a few missing warm days can make his own assessments. In Roxbury, Mr. I. P. Rand heats part of his land to grow early market plants using hot water circulated through iron pipes beneath the soil. He heats an area of 100 feet by 12 feet by burning about one ton of coal each month. The temperature increase caused by that amount of coal can only be estimated without direct measurement, but it probably averages around 30° day and night for the entire month. An acre is 36.4 times larger than the area heated by one ton of coal, so to heat an acre, 36.4 tons of coal would be needed, costing $217.40 at $6 per ton. Thus, heating an acre by 10° would cost about $72.47. It might be interesting to consider how much coal would be needed to evaporate the water from an undrained field, which could be removed by under-drains but evaporates from the surface without them. An approximate estimate is that evaporation from an undrained field retains two inches of vertical water depth for each of the months of May, June, July, and August; this amounts to 54,305 gallons, or 862 hogsheads per acre each month. If this amount of water were evaporated using a coal fire,[68] about 22⅔ tons of coal would be used, costing $136 at $6 a ton. The daily cost of evaporating this amount of water from an acre would be around $4.53. It’s likely that about half as much water would be evaporated from well-drained land; however, some experiments show this ratio can be higher—in which case, the heat loss due to excess moisture evaporating from undrained land, compared to drained land, would equate to the gain from 11⅓ tons of coal, costing $68 for each acre, for each of the three months. Regardless of the temperature at which a liquid vaporizes, it absorbs the same total amount of heat.
The latent heat of watery vapor at 212° is 972°; that is, when water at 212° is converted into vapor at the same temperature, the amount of heat expended in the process is 972°. This heat becomes latent, or insensible to the thermometer. The heat rendered latent by converting ice into water is about 140°. There are 7.4805 gallons in a cubic foot of water which weighs 62.38 lbs."
The latent heat of water vapor at 212°F is 972°F; this means that when water at 212°F turns into vapor at the same temperature, it uses 972°F of heat in that process. This heat becomes latent, or not detectable by a thermometer. The heat that gets absorbed when ice turns into water is about 140°F. There are 7.4805 gallons in a cubic foot of water, which weighs 62.38 lbs.
We have seen that a sea of water, more than three feet deep over the whole face of the land, falls annually from the clouds, equal to 4,000 tons in weight to every acre. We would use enough of this water to dissolve the elements of fertility in the soil, and fit them for the food of plants. We would retain it all in our fields, long enough to take from it its stores of fertilizing substances, brought from reeking marshes and steaming cities on cloud-wings to our farms. We would, after taking enough of its moisture to cool the parched earth, and to fit the soil for germination and vegetable growth, discharge the surplus, which must otherwise stagnate in the subsoil, by rapid drainage into the natural streams and rivers.
We have observed that a massive amount of water, more than three feet deep across the entire land, falls from the clouds each year, weighing about 4,000 tons for every acre. We would use enough of this water to break down the nutrients in the soil, making them suitable for plants to thrive. We would hold onto it in our fields long enough to capture its wealth of fertilizing substances, brought from wet marshes and bustling cities on cloud formations to our farms. After absorbing enough moisture to cool the dry earth and prepare the soil for seeds and plant growth, we would release the excess water, which would otherwise sit stagnant in the subsoil, quickly draining it into the nearby streams and rivers.
Evaporation proceeds more rapidly from a surface of[69] water, than from a surface of land, unless it be a saturated surface. It proceeds more rapidly in the sun than in the shade, and it proceeds again more rapidly in warm than in cold weather. It varies much with the culture of the field, whether in grass, or tillage, or fallow, and with its condition, as to being dry or wet, and with its formation, whether level or hilly. Yet, with all these variations, very great reliance may be placed upon the ascertained results of the observations already at our command.
Evaporation happens faster from a surface of [69] water than from land, unless the land is saturated. It occurs more quickly in the sun than in the shade, and it's also faster in warm weather compared to cold. The rate varies significantly based on how the field is used, whether it's grass, cultivated, or left fallow, and its condition, whether it's dry or wet, as well as its topography, whether flat or hilly. Still, despite all these variations, we can place a lot of trust in the well-documented results from our observations so far.
We have seen that evaporation from a water surface is, in general, greater than from land, and here we may observe one of those grand compensating designs of Providence which exist through all nature.
We have seen that evaporation from a water surface is, in general, greater than from land, and here we can notice one of those remarkable balancing designs of nature that are present throughout the entire natural world.
If the same quantity of water fell upon the sea and the land, and the evaporation were the same from both, then all the rivers running into the sea would soon convey to it all the water, and the sea would be full. But though nearly as much water falls on the sea as on the land, yet evaporation is much greater from the water than from land.
If the same amount of water fell on the ocean and the land, and if the evaporation rates were the same for both, then all the rivers flowing into the ocean would quickly carry all that water, and the ocean would fill up. However, even though a similar amount of water falls on the ocean as on the land, evaporation is significantly higher from the water than from the land.
About three feet of rain falls upon the water, while the evaporation from a water surface far exceeds that amount. In the neighborhood of Boston, evaporation from water surface is said to be 56 inches in the year, and in the State of New York, about 50 inches; while, in England, it is put by Mr. Dalton at 44.43 inches, and, by others, much lower.
About three feet of rain falls on the water, while evaporation from a water surface is much higher than that. In the Boston area, evaporation from water is estimated at 56 inches per year, and in New York State, it's about 50 inches. In England, Mr. Dalton estimates it at 44.43 inches, while others suggest it's even lower.
Again, about three feet of water annually falls upon the land, while the evaporation from the land is but little more than 20 inches. If this water fell upon a flat surface of soil, with an impervious subsoil of rock or clay, we should have some sixteen inches of water in the course of the year more than evaporates from the land. If a given field be dish-shaped, so as to retain it all, it must become a pond, and so remain, except in Summer,[70] when greater evaporation from a water surface may reduce it to a swamp or marsh.
Again, about three feet of water falls on the land each year, while the evaporation from the land is just over 20 inches. If this water fell on a flat surface of soil with a hard subsoil of rock or clay, we would have about 16 inches more water throughout the year than what evaporates from the land. If a field is shaped like a bowl, holding all the water, it would turn into a pond and stay that way, except in the summer,[70] when increased evaporation from the water surface might turn it into a swamp or marsh.
With 16 or 18 inches more water falling annually on all our cultivated fields than goes off by evaporation, is it not wise to inquire by what process of Nature or art this vast surplus shall escape?
With 16 or 18 inches more water falling each year on all our cultivated fields than what evaporates, isn't it smart to ask how this significant surplus will be managed by nature or human methods?
Experiments have been made with a view to determine the proportion of evaporation and filtration, upon well-drained land, in different months. From an able article in the N. Y. Agricultural Society for 1854, by George Geddes, we copy the following statement of valuable observations upon these points.
Experiments have been conducted to figure out the rate of evaporation and filtration on well-drained land during different months. From a knowledgeable article in the N. Y. Agricultural Society for 1854, by George Geddes, we have included the following statement of valuable observations on these matters.
It will be observed that, in the different observations collected in this chapter, results are somewhat various. They have been brought together for comparison, and will be found sufficiently uniform for all practical purposes in the matter of drainage.
It can be seen that in the various observations gathered in this chapter, the results are somewhat different. They have been compiled for comparison and will be found to be fairly consistent for all practical purposes regarding drainage.
"The experiments upon evaporation and drainage, made on Mr. Dalton's plan, were in vessels three feet deep, filled with soil just in the condition to secure perfect freedom from excess of water, and the drainage was determined by the amount of water that passed out of the tube at the bottom. These experiments have been most perfectly made in England by Mr. John Dickinson. The following table exhibits the mean of eight years:
"The experiments on evaporation and drainage, based on Mr. Dalton's plan, were conducted in vessels three feet deep, filled with soil that was properly conditioned to ensure perfect freedom from excess water, and the drainage was measured by the amount of water that flowed out of the tube at the bottom. These experiments have been carried out most successfully in England by Mr. John Dickinson. The following table shows the average over eight years:
Year. | October to March. | April to September. | Total each year. | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rain. | Filtration | Per cent filtered. |
Rain. | Filtration | Per cent filtered. |
Rain. | Filtration | Per cent filtered. |
|
1836 | 18.80 | 15.55 | 82.7 | 12.20 | 2.10 | 17.3 | 31.00 | 17.65 | 56.9 |
1837 | 11.30 | 6.85 | 60.6 | 9.80 | 0.10 | 1.0 | 21.10 | 6.95 | 32.9 |
1838 | 12.32 | 8.45 | 68.8 | 10.81 | 0.12 | 1.2 | 23.13 | 8.57 | 37.0 |
1839 | 13.87 | 12.31 | 88.2 | 17.41 | 2.60 | 15.0 | 31.28 | 14.91 | 47.6 |
1840 | 11.76 | 8.19 | 69.6 | 9.68 | 0.00 | 0.0 | 21.44 | 8.19 | 38.2 |
1841 | 16.84 | 14.19 | 84.2 | 15.26 | 0.00 | 0.0 | 32.10 | 14.19 | 44.2 |
1842 | 14.28 | 10.46 | 73.2 | 12.15 | 1.30 | 10.7 | 26.43 | 11.76 | 44.4 |
1843 | 12.43 | 7.11 | 57.2 | 14.04 | 0.99 | 7.1 | 26.47 | 8.10 | 36.0 |
Mean | 13.95 | 10.39 | 74.5 | 12.67 | 0.90 | 7.1 | 26.61 | 11.29 | 42.4 |
[71]"A soil that holds no water for the use of plants below six inches, will suffer from drouth in ten days in June, July, or August. If the soil is in suitable condition to hold water to the depth of three feet, it would supply sufficient moisture for the whole months of June, July, and August.
[71]"Soil that can't hold water for plants at depths less than six inches will dry out within ten days during June, July, or August. If the soil is in good condition to retain water up to three feet deep, it would provide enough moisture for the entire months of June, July, and August.
"M. de la Hire has shown that, at Paris, a vessel, sixteen inches deep, filled with sand and loam, discharged water through the pipe at the bottom until the 'herbs' were somewhat grown, when the discharge ceased, and the rains were insufficient, and it was necessary to water them. The fall of water at Paris is stated, in this account, at twenty inches in the year, which is less than the average, and the experiment must have been made in a very dry season; but the important point proved by it is, that the plants, when grown up, draw largely from the ground, and thereby much increase the evaporation from a given surface of earth. The result of the experiment is entirely in accordance with what would have been expected by a person conversant with the laws of vegetation.
"M. de la Hire showed that, in Paris, a container sixteen inches deep, filled with sand and soil, released water through the pipe at the bottom until the 'plants' had grown a bit, after which the flow stopped. The rainfall was not enough, which meant they had to be watered. The annual rainfall in Paris is reported in this account to be twenty inches, which is below average, suggesting the experiment took place during a particularly dry season. However, the key takeaway is that once the plants are mature, they extract a lot of moisture from the ground, significantly increasing evaporation from that area of soil. The results of the experiment align perfectly with what someone knowledgeable about plant biology would expect."
"The mean of each month for the eight years is:
"The average for each month over the eight years is:
Months. | Rain. | Filtration. | Per cent filtered. |
---|---|---|---|
Inches. | Inches. | ||
January | 1.84 | 1.30 | 70.7 |
February | 1.79 | 1.54 | 78.4 |
March | 1.61 | 1.08 | 66.6 |
April | 1.45 | 0.30 | 21.0 |
May | 1.85 | 0.11 | 5.8 |
June | 2.21 | 0.04 | 1.7 |
July | 2.28 | 0.04 | 1.8 |
August | 2.42 | 0.03 | 1.4 |
September | 2.64 | 0.37 | 13.9 |
October | 2.82 | 1.40 | 49.5 |
November | 3.83 | 3.26 | 84.9 |
December | 1.64 | 1.80 | 110.0 |
"The filtration from April to September is very small—practically nothing; but during those months we have 12.67 inches of rain—that is, we have two inches a month for evaporation besides the quantity in the earth on the first day of April. From October to March we have 10.39 inches filtered out of 13.95 inches, the whole fall. 'Of this Winter portion of 10.39, we must allow at least six inches for floods running away at the time of the rain, and then we have only 4.39 inches left for the supply of rivers and wells.' (Breadmore, p. 34.)[72]
"The filtration from April to September is very low—almost nothing; but during those months, we get 12.67 inches of rain—that is, we have two inches a month for evaporation in addition to what’s in the ground on the first day of April. From October to March, we have 10.39 inches filtered out of 13.95 inches, the total rainfall. 'Of this winter portion of 10.39, we need to account for at least six inches that runs off as floods during the rain, leaving us with only 4.39 inches available for rivers and wells.' (Breadmore, p. 34.)[72]
"It is calculated in England that the ordinary Summer run of streams does not exceed ten cubic feet per minute per square mile, and that the average for the whole year, due to springs and ordinary rains, is twenty feet per minute per square mile, exclusive of floods—and assuming no very wet or high mountain districts (Breadmore, p. 34)—which is equal to about four inches over the whole surface. If we add to this the six inches that are supposed to run off in freshets, we have ten inches discharged in the course of the year by the streams. The whole filtration was 11.29 inches—10.39 in the Winter, and .90 in the Summer. The remainder, 1.29 inches, is supposed to be consumed by wells and excessive evaporation from marshes and pools, from which the discharge is obstructed, by animals, and in various other ways. These calculations were made from experiments running through eight years, in which the average fall of water was only 26.61 inches per annum. When the results derived from them are applied to our average fall of 35.28 inches, we have for the water that constitutes the Summer flow of our streams 13.25 cubic feet per minute per mile of the country drained, and for the average annual flow, exclusive of freshets, 26.50 cubic feet per mile per minute. That is to say, of the 35.28 inches of water that fall in the course of the year, 5.30 run away in the streams as the average annual flow, 7.95 run away in the freshets, and 20.47 evaporate from the earth's surface, leaving 1.56 for consumption in various ways. In the whole year the drainage is nearly equal to one cubic foot per second per square mile (.976), no allowance being made for the 1.56 inches which is lost as before stated. These calculations are based upon English experiments. Mr. McAlpine, late State engineer and surveyor, in making his calculations for supplying the city of Albany with water (page 22 of his Report to the Water Commissioners), takes 45 per cent of the fall as available for the use of the city. Mr. Henry Tracy, in his Report to the Canal Board of 1849 (page 17), gives the results of the investigations in the valleys of Madison Brook, in Madison County, and of Long Pond, near Boston, Mass., as follows:
"It is calculated in England that the typical summer flow of streams doesn't go over ten cubic feet per minute per square mile, and that the yearly average, due to springs and regular rainfall, is twenty feet per minute per square mile, not counting floods—and assuming no extremely wet or high mountain areas (Breadmore, p. 34)—which equals about four inches over the entire surface. If we add the six inches that are believed to run off in flash floods, we end up with ten inches discharged throughout the year by the streams. The total filtration was 11.29 inches—10.39 in the winter, and .90 in the summer. The remaining 1.29 inches is thought to be used up by wells and significant evaporation from marshes and pools, where the discharge is blocked by animals and in other various ways. These calculations were derived from experiments spanning eight years, during which the average water fall was only 26.61 inches annually. When the results from these experiments are applied to our average fall of 35.28 inches, we find that the water contributing to the summer flow of our streams is 13.25 cubic feet per minute per mile of drained land, and for the average annual flow, not including flash floods, it's 26.50 cubic feet per mile per minute. In other words, out of the 35.28 inches of rain that fall over the year, 5.30 inches flow away in streams as the average annual flow, 7.95 inches are lost in flash floods, and 20.47 inches evaporate from the surface of the earth, leaving 1.56 inches for other uses. Over the entire year, the drainage is nearly equal to one cubic foot per second per square mile (0.976), not accounting for the 1.56 inches that is lost as mentioned before. These calculations are based on English experiments. Mr. McAlpine, the former state engineer and surveyor, in his calculations for providing water to the city of Albany (page 22 of his report to the water commissioners), considers 45 percent of the rainfall as available for the city's use. Mr. Henry Tracy, in his report to the Canal Board of 1849 (page 17), presents the findings from studies done in the valleys of Madison Brook in Madison County and Long Pond near Boston, Mass., as follows:"
Year. | Name of valley. | Fall of rain and snow in valley. |
Water ran off in inches. |
Evaporation from surface of ground. |
Ratio of drainage. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1835 | Madison Brook | 35.26 | 15.83 | 19.43 | 0.449 |
1837 | Long Pond | 26.65 | 11.70 | 14.95 | 0.439 |
1838 | Do | 38.11 | 16.62 | 21.49 | 0.436 |
Mean | 0.441 |
[73]"Madison Brook drains 6,000 acres, and Long Pond 11,400 acres. Mr. Tracy makes the following comment on this table: 'It appears that the evaporation from the surface of the ground in the valley of Long Pond was about 44 per cent more in 1838 than it was in 1837, while the ratio of the drainage differed less than one per cent the same years.'
[73]"Madison Brook drains 6,000 acres, and Long Pond drains 11,400 acres. Mr. Tracy comments on this data: 'It seems that evaporation from the ground in the Long Pond valley was about 44 percent higher in 1838 compared to 1837, while the drainage ratio barely changed—less than one percent—in those years.'"
"Dr. Hale states the evaporation from water-surface at Boston to be 56 inches in a year. (Senate Doc., No. 70, for 1853.)
"Dr. Hale reports that the evaporation from the water surface in Boston is 56 inches per year. (Senate Doc., No. 70, for 1853.)"
"The following table contains the results arrived at by Mr. Coffin, at Ogdensburgh, and Mr. Conkey, at Syracuse, in regard to the evaporation from water-surface:
"The following table contains the results obtained by Mr. Coffin at Ogdensburgh and Mr. Conkey at Syracuse regarding the evaporation from the water surface:"
Months. | Casket, at Ogdensburgh, in 1838. | Conkey, at Syracuse, in 1852. | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Rain. | Evaporation. | Rain. | Evaporation. | |
January | 2.36 | 1.652 | 3.673 | 0.665 |
February | 0.97 | 0.817 | 1.307 | 1.489 |
March | 1.18 | 2.067 | 3.234 | 2.239 |
April | 0.40 | 1.625 | 3.524 | 3.421 |
May | 4.81 | 7.100 | 4.491 | 7.309 |
June | 3.57 | 6.745 | 3.773 | 7.600 |
July | 1.88 | 7.788 | 2.887 | 9.079 |
August | 2.55 | 5.415 | 2.724 | 6.854 |
September | 1.01 | 7.400 | 2.774 | 5.334 |
October | 2.73 | 3.948 | 4.620 | 3.022 |
November | 2.07 | 3.659 | 4.354 | 1.325 |
December | 1.08 | 1.146 | 4.112 | 1.863 |
Total | 24.61 | 49.362 | 41.473 | 50.200 |
"The annual fall of water in England, is stated, by Mr. Dalton, to be 32 inches. In this State, it is 35.28 inches. The evaporation from water-surface in England, is put, by Mr. Dalton, at 44.43 inches. The fall is less, and the evaporation is less, in England than here; and the fall, in each case, bears the same proportion to the evaporation, very nearly; and it appears that the experiments made on the two sides of the ocean, result in giving very nearly the same per centage of drainage. In England, it is 42.4 per cent.; in this State, it is 44.1. In England, the experiments were made on a limited scale compared with ours; but the results agree so well, that great confidence may safely be placed in them."
"The annual rainfall in England is reported by Mr. Dalton to be 32 inches. In this state, it is 35.28 inches. The evaporation from water surfaces in England is estimated by Mr. Dalton to be 44.43 inches. The rainfall is lower, and the evaporation is also lower in England than here; and the rainfall in each case is very nearly proportional to the evaporation. It seems that the experiments conducted on both sides of the ocean yield almost the same percentage of drainage. In England, it is 42.4 percent; in this state, it is 44.1 percent. In England, the experiments were conducted on a smaller scale compared to ours, but the results are so consistent that we can place great confidence in them."
In reviewing the whole subject of rain, and of evaporation[74] and filtration, we seem to have evidence to justify the opinion, that with considerable more rain in this country than in England, and with a greater evaporation, because of a clearer sky and greater heat, we have a larger quantity of surplus water to be disposed of by drainage.
In looking at the entire topic of rain, evaporation[74], and filtration, it seems we have enough evidence to support the idea that, despite having significantly more rain in this country compared to England, and experiencing greater evaporation due to clearer skies and higher temperatures, we end up with more excess water that needs to be managed through drainage.
The occasion for thorough-drainage, however, is greater in the Northern part of the United States than in England, upon land of the same character; because, as we have already seen, rain falls far more regularly there than here, and never in such quantities in a single day; and because there the land is open to be worked by the plough nearly every day in the year, while here for several months our fields are locked up in frost, and our labor for the Spring crowded into a few days. There, the water which falls in Winter passes into the soil, and is drained off as it falls; while here, the snow accumulates to a great depth, and in thawing floods the land at once.
The need for proper drainage is greater in the Northern part of the United States than in England, despite the land being similar. This is because, as we've noted, rain falls much more consistently there than here and rarely in such large amounts all at once. Additionally, there, the land can be plowed nearly every day of the year, while here, for several months, our fields are frozen and we have to squeeze our Spring work into just a few days. In the North, the winter rain soaks into the soil and drains away as it falls, whereas here, snow builds up to a significant depth and then floods the land all at once when it melts.
Both here and in England, much of the land requires no under-draining, as it has already a subsoil porous enough to allow free passage for all the surplus water; and it is no small part of the utility of understanding the principles of drainage, that it will enable farmers to discriminate—at a time when draining is somewhat of a fashionable operation with amateurs—between land that does and land that does not require so expensive an operation.
Both here and in England, a lot of the land doesn’t need drainage since it already has a subsoil that's porous enough to let excess water pass through freely. Understanding the principles of drainage is really useful for farmers because it helps them tell the difference—especially when drainage is a trendy thing among amateurs—between land that does need this costly process and land that doesn’t.
CHAPTER IV[75]
DRAINAGE OF HIGH LANDS—WHAT LANDS REQUIRE DRAINAGE.
What is High Land?—Accidents to Crops from Water.—Do Lands need Drainage in America?—Springs.—Theory of Moisture, with Illustrations.—Water of Pressure.—Legal Rights as to Draining our Neighbor's Wells and Land.—What Lands require Drainage?—Horace Greeley's Opinion.—Drainage more Necessary in America than in England; Indications of too much Moisture.—Will Drainage Pay?
What is High Land?—Issues with Crops Due to Water.—Do Lands in America Need Drainage?—Springs.—Understanding Moisture, with Examples.—Water Pressure.—Legal Rights Regarding Draining Our Neighbor's Wells and Land.—Which Lands Need Drainage?—Horace Greeley's View.—Drainage is More Essential in America than in England; Signs of Excess Moisture.—Is Drainage Worth It?
By "high land," is meant land, the surface of which is not overflowed, as distinguished from swamps, marshes, and the like low lands. How great a proportion of such lands would be benefitted by draining, it is impossible to estimate.
By "high land," we mean land that isn't flooded, unlike swamps, marshes, and other low-lying areas. It's impossible to estimate how much of this land would benefit from drainage.
The Committee on Draining, in their Report to the State Agricultural Society of New York, in 1848, assert that, "There is not one farm out of every seventy-five in this State, but needs draining—yes, much draining—to bring it into high cultivation. Nay, we may venture to say, that every wheat-field would produce a larger and finer crop if properly drained." The committee further say: "It will be conceded, that no farmer ever raised a good crop of grain on wet ground, or on a field where pools of water become masses of ice in the Winter. In such cases, the grain plants are generally frozen out and perish; or, if any survive, they never arrive at maturity, nor produce a well-developed seed. In fact, every observing farmer knows that stagnant water, whether on the surface of his soil, or within reach of the roots of his plants, always does them injury."[76]
The Committee on Draining, in their report to the New York State Agricultural Society in 1848, states that, "Not one farm out of every seventy-five in this state doesn’t need draining—yes, a lot of draining—to put it into peak condition. In fact, we can confidently say that every wheat field would yield a bigger and better crop if it were properly drained." The committee adds, "It's generally accepted that no farmer ever produced a good grain crop on wet ground or in a field where pools of water turn into ice masses in the winter. In such situations, the grain plants usually get frozen out and die; or, if any do survive, they never fully mature and don’t produce high-quality seeds. In reality, any observant farmer knows that stagnant water, whether on the surface of the soil or close to the roots of the plants, is always harmful to them."[76]
The late Mr. Delafield, one of the most distinguished agriculturists of New York, said in a public address:
The late Mr. Delafield, one of the most respected farmers in New York, said in a public speech:
"We all well know that wheat and other grains, as well as grasses, are never fully developed, and never produce good seed, when the roots are soaked in moisture. No man ever raised good wheat from a wet or moist subsoil. Now, the farms of this country, though at times during the Summer they appear dry, and crack open on the surface, are not, in fact, dry farms, for reasons already named. On the contrary, for nine months out of twelve, they are moist or wet; and we need no better evidence of the fact, than the annual freezing out of the plants, and consequent poverty of many crops."
"We all know that wheat and other grains, as well as grasses, never fully develop and don't produce good seeds when the roots are soaked in moisture. No one has ever grown good wheat in wet or damp soil. Now, the farms in this country might seem dry sometimes during the summer and may crack on the surface, but they aren’t truly dry farms for the reasons already mentioned. In fact, for nine months of the year, they are moist or wet. We can see this evidence clearly in the annual freezing out of the plants and the resulting poor yields of many crops."
If we listen to the answers of farmers, when asked as to the success of their labors, we shall be surprised, perhaps, to observe how much of their want of success is attributed to accidents, and how uniformly these accidents result from causes which thorough draining would remove. The wheat-crop of one would have been abundant, had it not been badly frozen out in the Fall; while another has lost nearly the whole of his, by a season too wet for his land. A farmer at the West has planted his corn early, and late rains have rotted the seed in the ground; while one at the East has been compelled, by the same rains, to wait so long before planting, that the season has been too short. Another has worked his clayey farm so wet, because he had not time to wait for it to dry, that it could not be properly tilled. And so their crops have wholly or partially failed, and all because of too much cold water in the soil. It would seem, by the remarks of those who till the earth, as if there were never a season just right—as if Providence had bidden us labor for bread, and yet sent down the rains of heaven so plentifully as always to blight our harvests. It is rare that we do not have a most remarkable season, with respect to moisture, especially. Our potatoes are rotted by the Summer showers, or cut off by a Summer drought; and when, as in the season of 1856, in[77] New England, they are neither seriously diseased nor dried up, we find at harvest-time that the promise has belied the fulfillment; that, after all the fine show above ground, the season has been too wet, and the crop is light. We frequently hear complaint that the season was too cold for Indian corn, and that the ears did not fill; or that a sharp drought, following a wet Spring, has cut short the crop. We hear no man say, that he lacked skill to cultivate his crop. Seldom does a farmer attribute his failure to the poverty of his soil. He has planted and cultivated in such a way, that, in a favorable season, he would have reaped a fair reward for his toil; but the season has been too wet or too dry; and, with full faith that farming will pay in the long run, he resolves to plant the same land in the same manner, hoping in future for better luck.
If we listen to farmers when they talk about the success of their work, we might be surprised to see how much of their lack of success is blamed on accidents, which usually stem from issues that proper drainage could fix. One farmer would have had a great wheat crop if it hadn't been ruined by frost in the fall, while another lost almost all his wheat because his land was too wet that season. A farmer in the West planted his corn early, but late rains caused the seeds to rot in the ground; meanwhile, a farmer in the East had to wait too long to plant due to the same rains, and the growing season ended up being too short. Another farmer worked his clayey fields while they were too wet because he didn’t have time to let them dry out, which meant they couldn’t be properly tilled. As a result, their crops have completely or partially failed, all due to too much water in the soil. It seems like, according to those who work the land, there’s never a season that’s just right—as if Providence has commanded us to work for our food but always sends down rain to ruin our harvests. It’s rare to have a truly ideal season, especially when it comes to moisture. Our potatoes often rot from summer showers, or they suffer from summer droughts; and when, like in the season of 1856, in [77] New England, they aren’t badly diseased or dried up, we find at harvest time that the promising growth above ground has not led to a good yield; despite all the nice appearance, the season was too wet, and the crop is poor. We often hear complaints that it was too cold for corn, and the ears didn't fill out, or that a sudden drought after a wet spring has cut yields short. No one says they lacked the skill to grow their crops. Rarely does a farmer blame his failure on the poor quality of his soil. He has planted and cared for his crops in such a way that, in a favorable season, he would have received a fair return for his hard work; but the season has been either too wet or too dry, and with strong belief that farming will eventually be profitable, he decides to plant the same land the same way, hoping for better luck next time.
Too much cold water is at the bottom of most of these complaints of unpropitious seasons, as well as of most of our soils; and it is in our power to remove the cause of these complaints and of our want of success.
Too much cold water is behind most of these complaints about bad weather, as well as many of our soil issues; and we have the ability to eliminate the root cause of these complaints and our lack of success.
But in ourselves.
We must underdrain all the land we cultivate, that Nature has not already underdrained, and we shall cease complaints of the seasons. The advice of Cromwell to his soldiers: "Trust God, and keep your powder dry," affords a good lesson of faith and works to the farmer. We shall seldom have a season, upon properly drained land, that is too wet, or too cold, or even too dry; for thorough draining is almost as sure a remedy for a drought, as for a flood.
We need to create drainage for all the land we farm that hasn’t been drained by nature already, and then we can stop complaining about the weather. Cromwell’s advice to his soldiers—“Trust God, and keep your powder dry”—offers a valuable lesson in faith and effort for farmers. When we have well-drained land, we rarely face a season that is too wet, too cold, or even too dry; proper drainage is nearly as effective a solution for drought as it is for flooding.
Do lands need under draining in America? It is a common error to suppose that, because the sun shines more brightly upon this country than upon England, and because almost every Summer brings such a drought here as is unknown there, her system of thorough drainage can[78] have no place in agriculture on this side of the Atlantic. It is true that we have a clearer sky and a drier climate than are experienced in England; but it is also true that, although we have a far less number of showers and of rainy days, we have a greater quantity of rain in the year.
Do lands need under draining in America? It’s a common misconception to think that, because the sun shines more brightly in this country than in England, and because almost every summer brings a drought here that is unheard of there, their thorough drainage system can[78] have no relevance to agriculture across the Atlantic. It’s true that we have clearer skies and a drier climate than those in England; however, it’s also true that, although we experience fewer showers and rainy days, we receive a greater amount of rain over the year.
The necessity of drainage, however, does not depend so much upon the quantity of water which falls or flows upon land, nor upon the power of the sun to carry it off by evaporation, as upon the character of the subsoil. The vast quantity of water which Nature pours upon every acre of soil annually, were it all to be removed by evaporation alone, would render the whole country barren; but Nature herself has kindly done the work of draining upon a large proportion of our land, so that only a healthful proportion of the water which falls on the earth, passes off at the surface by the influence of the sun.
The need for drainage isn’t solely based on how much water falls or flows onto the land, or on how much the sun can evaporate it, but rather on the type of subsoil. The huge amount of water that Nature brings to every acre of soil each year, if it were to be removed only by evaporation, would make the entire country barren. However, Nature has already taken care of draining a large portion of our land, allowing only a healthy amount of the water that falls on the earth to evaporate at the surface due to the sun’s influence.
If the subsoil is of sand or gravel, or of other porous earth, that portion of the water not evaporated, passes off below by natural drainage. If the subsoil be of clay, rock, or other impervious substances, the downward course of the water is checked, and it remains stagnant, or bursts out upon the surface in the form of springs.
If the ground beneath is sandy or gravelly, or made of other porous material, the water that doesn’t evaporate drains away naturally. If the underground is clay, rock, or other non-porous materials, the water's downward movement is blocked, causing it to stay still or surface as springs.
As the primary object of drainage is to remove surplus water, it may be well to consider with some care
As the main goal of drainage is to get rid of excess water, it’s worth considering this carefully.
THE SOURCES OF MOISTURE.
Springs.—These are, as has been suggested, merely the water of rain and snow, impeded in its downward percolation, and collected and poured forth in a perennial flow at a lower level.
Springs.—These are, as has been suggested, simply rain and snowmelt water that gets held up as it seeps down, collecting and flowing out continuously at a lower level.
The water which falls in the form of rain and snow upon the soil of the whole territory of the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains, each year, is sufficient to cover it to the depth of more than 3 feet. It comes upon the[79] earth, not daily in gentle dews to water the plants, but at long, unequal intervals, often in storms, tempests, and showers, pouring out, sometimes, in a single day, more than usually falls in a whole month.
The water that falls as rain and snow on the entire land of the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains, each year is enough to cover it to a depth of over 3 feet. It doesn't come to the ground in gentle dews every day to hydrate the plants, but rather at long, inconsistent intervals, often during storms, gales, and heavy showers, sometimes delivering in one day more than what usually falls in an entire month.
What becomes of all this moisture, is an inquiry especially interesting to the agriculturist, upon whose fruitful fields this flood of water annually descends, and whose labor in seed-time would be destroyed by a single Summer shower, were not Nature more thoughtful than he, of his welfare. Of the water which thus falls upon cultivated fields, a part runs away into the streams, either upon the surface, or by percolation through the soil; a part is taken up into the air by evaporation, while a very small proportion enters into the constitution of vegetation. The proportion which passes off by percolation varies according to the nature of the soil in the locality where it falls.
What happens to all this moisture is a question especially interesting to farmers, who rely on the yearly downpour on their productive fields, and whose hard work during planting season could be ruined by a single summer rain, if Nature didn't care more about their well-being than they do. Of the water that falls on cultivated land, some of it flows into the streams, either on the surface or by filtering through the soil; some is absorbed into the air through evaporation, while a very small amount becomes part of the plants. The amount that seeps away varies depending on the type of soil in the area where it lands.
Usually, we find the crust of the earth in our cultivated fields, in strata, or layers: first, a surface-soil of a few inches of a loamy nature, in which clay or sand predominates; and then, it may be, a layer of sand or gravel, freely admitting the passage of water; and, perhaps, next, and within two or three feet of the surface, a stratum of clay, or of sand or gravel cemented with some oxyd of iron, through which water passes very slowly, or not at all. These strata are sometimes regular, extending at an equal depth over large tracts, and having a uniform dip, or inclination. Oftener, however, in hilly regions especially, they are quite irregular—the impervious stratum frequently having depressions of greater or less extent, and holding water, like a bowl. Not unfrequently, as we cut a ditch upon a declivity, we find that the dip of the strata below has no correspondence with the visible surface of the field, but that the different strata lie nearly level, or are much broken, while the surface has a regular inclination.[80]
Typically, we find the earth's crust in our cultivated fields in layers: first, a surface layer a few inches thick made up of loamy soil, where clay or sand is dominant; then, there might be a layer of sand or gravel that allows water to pass through easily; and perhaps next, within two or three feet of the surface, a layer of clay, or sand or gravel mixed with some iron oxide, through which water flows very slowly, if at all. These layers can sometimes be even and extend uniformly across large areas, with a consistent slope. More often, especially in hilly areas, they are quite irregular—the impermeable layer often has dips of varying sizes that hold water like a bowl. Frequently, when we dig a ditch on a slope, we notice that the angle of the layers below doesn't match the visible slope of the field, but instead, the different layers are nearly flat or quite fragmented, while the surface has a steady incline.[80]
Underlying all soils, at greater or less depth, is found some bed of rock, or clay, impervious to water, usually at but few feet below the surface—the descending water meeting with obstacles to its regular descent. The tendency of the rain-water which falls upon the earth, is to sink directly downward by gravitation. Turned aside, however, by the many obstacles referred to, it often passes obliquely, or almost horizontally, through the soil. The drop which falls upon the hill-top sinks, perhaps, a few inches, meets with a bed of clay, glides along upon it for many days, and is at last borne out to be drunk up by the sun on some far-off slope; another, falling upon the sand-plain, sinks at once to the "water-line," or line of level water, which rests on clay beneath, and, slowly creeping along, helps to form a swamp or bog in the valley.
Beneath all soils, at varying depths, there's a layer of rock or clay that doesn’t allow water to pass through, typically just a few feet below the surface, which creates obstacles for the water trying to drain downward. Rainwater that falls on the ground tends to flow straight down due to gravity. However, because of the various barriers, it often moves diagonally or almost horizontally through the soil. A drop of rain that lands on a hilltop might sink just a few inches, hit a layer of clay, and then travel along it for several days, eventually making its way to be absorbed by the sun on a distant slope. Another drop that lands on a sandy area may sink right down to the “water-line,” which is the level of water sitting on the clay below, and as it slowly moves, it contributes to creating a swamp or bog in the valley.
Sometimes, the rain which falls upon the high land is collected together by fissures in the rocks, or by seams or ruptures in the impervious strata below the surface, and finds vent in a gushing spring on the hill-side.
Sometimes, the rain that falls on the high ground is gathered by cracks in the rocks or by seams or breaks in the impenetrable layers beneath the surface, and it emerges as a rushing spring on the hillside.
We feel confident that no better illustration of the theory of springs, as connected with our subject, can be found, than that of Mr. Girdwood, in the Cyclopedia of Agriculture—a work from which we quote the more liberally, because it is very expensive and rare in America:
We believe there's no better example of the theory of springs related to our topic than Mr. Girdwood's work in the Cyclopedia of Agriculture—a book we quote from extensively because it's quite expensive and rare in America:
"When rain falls on a tract of country, part of it flows over the surface, and makes its escape by the numerous natural and artificial courses which may exist, while another portion is absorbed by the soil and the porous strata which lie under it.
"When it rains on a piece of land, some water runs off the surface and flows away through the many natural and man-made pathways, while another part is soaked up by the soil and the porous layers beneath it."
"Let the following diagram represent such a tract of country, and let the dark portions represent clay or other impervious strata, while the[81] lighter portions represent layers of gravel, sand, or chalk, permitting a free passage to water.
"Let the following diagram represent a piece of land, where the dark areas indicate clay or other non-permeable layers, while the[81] lighter areas show layers of gravel, sand, or chalk that allow water to flow through easily."

Fig. 5.
Fig. 5.
"When rain falls in such a district, after sinking through the surface-layer (represented in the diagram by a narrow band), it reaches the stratified layers beneath. Through these it still further sinks, if they are porous, until it reaches some impervious stratum, which arrests its directly-downward course, and compels it to find its way along its upper surface. Thus, the rain which falls on the space represented between B and D, is compelled, by the impervious strata, to flow towards C. Here it is at once absorbed, but is again immediately arrested by the impervious layer E; it is, therefore, compelled to pass through the porous stratum C, along the surface of E to A, where it pours forth in a fountain, or forms a morass or swamp, proportionate in size or extent to the tract of country between B and D, or the quantity of rain which falls upon it. In such a case as is here represented, it will be obvious that the spring may often be at a great distance from the district from which it derives its supplies; and this accounts for the fact, that drainage-works on a large scale sometimes materially lessen the supply of water at places remote from the scene of operations.
"When it rains in an area like this, after soaking into the top layer (shown in the diagram as a narrow band), the water reaches the layers below. If these layers are porous, the water continues to sink until it hits a solid layer that stops its downward movement and forces it to flow along its upper surface. So, the rain that falls between points B and D is pushed by the solid layers to flow towards point C. Here, it gets absorbed, but is immediately blocked by the solid layer E; hence, it must move through the porous layer C, along the surface of E to point A, where it gushes out as a spring or creates a marsh or swamp, the size of which depends on the area between B and D and the amount of rain that falls on it. In situations like this, it's clear that the spring can be far away from the area where it gets its water, which explains why large-scale drainage projects can significantly reduce the water supply in places far from the site of the work."
"In the instance given above, the water forming the spring is represented as gaining access to the porous stratum, at a point where it crops out from beneath an impervious one, and as passing along to its point of discharge at a considerable depth, and under several layers of various characters. Sometimes, in an undulating country, large tracts may rest immediately upon some highly-porous stratum—as from B to C, in the following diagram—rendering the necessity for draining less apparent; while the country from A to B, and from C to D, may be full of springs and marshes—arising, partly, from the rain itself, which falls in these latter districts, being unable to find a way of escape, and partly from the natural drainage of the more porous soils adjoining being discharged upon it.
"In the example above, the water that creates the spring is shown as reaching the porous layer at a point where it surfaces from underneath an impermeable layer and flows to its discharge point at a significant depth, while passing under various layers. Sometimes, in a rolling landscape, large areas may sit directly on a highly porous layer—like from B to C in the diagram below—making the need for drainage less obvious; meanwhile, the area from A to B, and from C to D, may be filled with springs and swamps—resulting partly from the rain that falls in these latter areas, which can't find a way to escape, and partly from the natural drainage of the more porous soils nearby discharging onto it."

Fig. 6.
Fig. 6.
"Again: the rocks lying under the surface are sometimes so full of fissures, that, although they themselves are impervious to water, yet,[82] so completely do these fissures carry off rain, that, in some parts of the county of Durham, they render the sinking of wells useless, and make it necessary for the farmers to drive their cattle many miles for water. It sometimes happens that these fissures, or cracks, penetrate to enormous depths, and are of great width, and filled with sand or clay. These are termed faults by miners; and some, which we lately examined, at distances of from three to four hundred yards from the surface, were from five to fifteen yards in width. These faults, when of clay, are generally the cause of springs appearing at the surface: they arrest the progress of the water in some of the porous strata, and compel it to find an exit, by passing to the surface between the clay and the faces of the ruptured strata. When the fault is of sand or gravel, the opposite effect takes place, if it communicates with any porous stratum; and water, which may have been flowing over the surface, on reaching it, is at once absorbed. In the following diagram, let us suppose that B represents such a clay-fault as has been described, and that A represents a sandy one, and that C and D represent porous strata charged with water. On the water reaching the fault at B, it will be compelled to find its way to the surface—there forming a spring, and rendering the retentive soil, from B to A, wet; but, as soon as it reaches the sandy-fault at A, it is immediately absorbed, and again reaches the porous strata, along which it had traveled before being forced to the surface at B. It will be observed, that the strata at the points of dislocation are not represented as in a line with the portions from which they have been dissevered. This is termed the upthrow of the fault, as at B; and the downthrow, as at A. For the sake of the illustration, the displacement is here shown as very slight; but, in some cases, these elevations and depressions of the strata extend to many hundreds of feet—as, for instance, at the mines of the British Iron Company, at Cefn-Mawre, in North Wales, where the downthrow of the fault is 360 feet.
"Again: the rocks beneath the surface are often so filled with cracks that, even though they don’t allow water to pass through, [82] they drain away rain so effectively in some areas of Durham County that digging wells is pointless, forcing farmers to drive their cattle for miles to find water. Sometimes these cracks reach deep down and are wide, filled with sand or clay. Miners call these faults; some that we recently examined were located about three to four hundred yards below the surface and ranged from five to fifteen yards in width. When the faults contain clay, they usually cause springs to form at the surface, trapping water in certain porous layers and forcing it to flow out through the clay and the edges of the fractured layers. However, when the fault is made up of sand or gravel and connects with a porous layer, the opposite happens—water that may have been flowing on the surface is instantly soaked up when it encounters this layer. In the following diagram, let's say B represents such a clay fault, A represents a sandy one, and C and D indicate water-saturated porous layers. When water hits the fault at B, it will have to find its way to the surface, creating a spring and wetting the soil from B to A. But once it reaches the sandy fault at A, it’s immediately absorbed and then continues along the porous layers it flowed through before being forced up at B. You'll notice that the layers at the points of disruption are not lined up with the sections they were separated from. This is called the upthrow of the fault, like at B, and the downthrow, like at A. For illustration, this displacement looks minimal here, but in some cases, these shifts in the layers can reach hundreds of feet—such as at the British Iron Company's mines at Cefn-Mawre in North Wales, where the downthrow of the fault is 360 feet."

Fig. 7.
Fig. 7.
"Sometimes the strata are disposed in the form of a basin. In this case, the water percolating through the more elevated ground—near[83] what may be called the rim—collects in the lower parts of the strata towards the centre, there forcing its way to the surface, if the upper impervious beds be thin; or, if otherwise, remaining a concealed reservoir, ready to yield its supplies to the shaft or boring-rod of the well-sinker, and sometimes forming a living fountain capable of rising many feet above the surface. It is in this way that what are called Artesian wells are formed. The following diagram represents such a disposition of the strata as has just been referred to. The rain which falls on the tracts of country at A and B, gradually percolates towards the centre of the basin, where it may be made to give rise to an Artesian well, as at C, by boring through the superincumbent mass of clay; or it may force itself to the surface through the thinner part of the layer of clay, as at D—there forming a spring, or swamp.
"Sometimes the layers of rock are arranged in a basin shape. In this case, water that seeps through the higher ground—near what can be called the rim—collects in the lower parts of the layers towards the center, forcing its way to the surface if the upper impermeable layers are thin; or, if not, it remains a hidden reservoir, ready to supply the shaft or drilling rod of the well-digger, and sometimes creating a natural spring that can rise several feet above the ground. This is how what's known as Artesian wells are formed. The following diagram illustrates the arrangement of the layers just described. The rain that falls on the areas at A and B gradually seeps toward the center of the basin, where it can create an Artesian well, as at C, by drilling through the overlying mass of clay; or it might push to the surface through the thinner part of the clay layer, as at D—where it forms a spring or swamp."

Fig. 8.
Fig. 8.
"Again: the higher parts of hilly ground are sometimes composed of very porous and absorbent strata, while the lower portions are more impervious—the soil and subsoil being of a very stiff and retentive description. In this case, the water collected by the porous layers is prevented from finding a ready exit, when it reaches the impervious layers, by the stiff surface-soil. The water is by this means dammed up in some measure, and acquires a considerable degree of pressure; and, forcing itself to the day at various places, it forms those extensive "weeping"-banks which have such an injurious effect upon many of our mountain-pastures. This was the form of spring, or swamp, to the removal of which Elkington principally turned his attention; and the following diagram, taken from a description of his system of draining, will explain the stratification and springs referred to, more clearly.
"Again: the higher parts of hilly ground are sometimes made up of very porous and absorbent layers, while the lower portions are more impermeable—with the soil and subsoil being very dense and retaining moisture. In this case, the water collected by the porous layers is unable to easily escape when it reaches the impermeable layers, thanks to the dense surface soil. This causes the water to build up somewhat and create significant pressure, forcing itself to the surface in various places, forming those extensive "weeping" banks that have such a harmful effect on many of our mountain pastures. This was the type of spring, or swamp, that Elkington focused on in his work; and the following diagram, taken from a description of his drainage system, will clarify the layering and springs mentioned."

Fig. 9.
Fig. 9.
"In some districts, where clay forms the staple of the soil, a bed of sand or gravel, completely saturated with water, occurs at the depth of a few feet from the surface, following all the undulations of the country, and maintaining its position, in relation to the surface, over considerable tracts, here and there pouring forth its waters in a spring, or denoting its proximity, by the subaquatic nature of the herbage. Such a configuration is represented in the following diagram, where A represents the surface-soil; B, the impervious subsoil of clay; C, the bed of sandy-clay or gravel; and D, the lower bed of clay, resting upon the rocky strata beneath.
"In some areas, where clay is the main type of soil, there’s a layer of sand or gravel, completely soaked with water, just a few feet below the surface. It follows the landscape’s ups and downs and keeps its position relative to the surface over large areas, sometimes bubbling up in a spring, or hinting at its closeness through the wet nature of the vegetation above. This setup is shown in the diagram below, where A represents the surface soil; B is the solid clay subsoil; C is the layer of sandy clay or gravel; and D is the lower clay layer, sitting on top of the rocky layers below."

Fig. 10.
Fig. 10.
"Springs sometimes communicate with lakes or pools, at higher levels. In such cases, the quantity of water discharged is generally so great, as to form at once a brook or stream of some magnitude. These, therefore, hardly come under the ordinary cognizance of the land-drainer, and are, therefore, here merely referred to."
"Springs sometimes connect with lakes or pools at higher levels. In these instances, the amount of water that flows out is usually so significant that it creates a creek or stream of considerable size. Because of this, they generally fall outside the typical concerns of land drainage and are mentioned here only briefly."
THE WATER OF PRESSURE.
Water that issues from the land, either constantly, periodically, or even intermittently, may, perhaps, be properly termed a spring. But there is often much water in the soil which did not fall in rain upon that particular field, and which does not issue from it in any defined stream, but which is slowly passing through it by percolation from a higher source, to ooze out into some stream, or to pass off by evaporation; or, perhaps, farther on, to fall into crevices in the soil, and eventually form springs. As we find it in our field, it is neither rain-water, which has there fallen, nor spring-water, in any sense. It has been appropriately termed the water of pressure, to distinguish it from both rain and spring-water; and the recognition of this term will certainly be found convenient[85] to all who are engaged in the discussion of drainage.
Water that comes from the land, whether it’s constant, seasonal, or even occasional, might be correctly called a spring. However, there’s often a lot of water in the soil that didn't come from rain falling on that specific field and that doesn’t flow out in any clear stream. Instead, it’s slowly moving through the soil by percolation from a higher source, eventually seeping into a stream or evaporating; or it might go further down into soil cracks and ultimately create springs. As we find it in our field, it is neither rainwater that has fallen there nor spring water in any way. It has been appropriately labeled as water of pressure to set it apart from both rain and spring water, and recognizing this term will definitely be useful[85] for anyone involved in drainage discussions.
The distinction is important in a legal point of view, as relating to the right of the land-owner to divert the sources of supply to mill-streams, or to adjacent lower lands. It often happens that an owner of land on a slope may desire to drain his field, while the adjacent owner below, may not only refuse to join in the drainage, but may believe that he derives an advantage from the surface-washing or the percolation from his higher neighbor. He may believe that, by deep drainage above, his land will be dried up and rendered worthless; or, he may desire to collect the water which thus percolates, into his land, and use it for irrigation, or for a water-ram, or for the supply of his barn-yard. May the upper owner legally proceed with the drainage of his own land, if he thus interfere with the interests of the man below?
The distinction is important from a legal perspective, especially regarding the landowner's right to redirect the sources of water to mills or neighboring lower lands. It's common for a landowner on a slope to want to drain their field, while the landowner below might not only refuse to participate in the drainage but also think they benefit from the runoff or seepage from the higher land. They might believe that if deep drainage occurs above, their land will become dry and worthless; or they may want to capture the water that seeps onto their land for irrigation, a water-ram, or to supply their barnyard. Can the landowner on higher ground legally drain their land if it affects the interests of the owner below?
Again: wherever drains have been opened, we already hear complaints of their effects upon wells. In our good town of Exeter, there seems to be a general impression on one street, that the drainage of a swamp, formerly owned by the author, has drawn down the wells on that street, situated many rods distant from the drains. Those wells are upon a sandy plain, with underlying clay, and the drains are cut down upon the clay, and into it, and may possibly draw off the water a foot or two lower through the whole village—if we can regard the water line running through it as the surface of a pond, and the swamp as a dam across its outlet.
Once again, wherever drains have been installed, we’re already hearing complaints about their impact on wells. In our lovely town of Exeter, there seems to be a widespread belief on one street that the drainage of a swamp, once owned by the author, has lowered the water levels in the wells on that street, which are quite a distance away from the drains. These wells are located on a sandy plain with clay underneath, and the drains are dug into the clay, which could potentially lower the water level by a foot or two throughout the village—if we think of the water line running through it as the surface of a pond and the swamp as a dam at its outlet.
The rights of land-owners, as to running water over their premises, have been fruitful of litigation, but are now well defined. In general, in the language of Judge Story,
The rights of landowners regarding the flow of water over their property have led to a lot of legal disputes, but are now clearly defined. Generally, in the words of Judge Story,
"Every proprietor upon each bank of a river, is entitled to the land[86] covered with water in front of his bank to the middle thread of the stream, &c. In virtue of this ownership, he has a right to the use of the water flowing over it in its natural current, without diminution or obstruction. The consequence of this principle is, that no proprietor has a right to use the water to the prejudice of another. It is wholly immaterial whether the party be a proprietor above or below, in the course of the river, the right being common to all the proprietors on the river. No one has a right to diminish the quantity which will, according to the natural current, flow to the proprietor below, or to throw it back upon a proprietor above."
"Every landowner on each bank of a river has the right to the land[86] covered by water in front of their bank, extending to the middle of the stream, etc. Because of this ownership, they can use the water flowing over it in its natural state, without interference or obstruction. As a result, no landowner can use the water in a way that harms another. It doesn't matter whether the person is an upstream or downstream owner; this right is shared by all landowners on the river. No one has the right to reduce the amount of water that naturally flows to the downstream owner or to redirect it back to an upstream owner."
Chief Justice Richardson, of New Hampshire, thus briefly states the same position:
Chief Justice Richardson of New Hampshire briefly expresses the same viewpoint:
"In general, every man has a right to the use of the water flowing in a stream through his land, and if any one divert the water from its natural channel, or throw it back, so as to deprive him of the use of it, the law will give him redress. But one man may acquire, by grant, a right to throw the water back upon the land of another, and long usage may be evidence of such a grant. It is, however, well settled that a man acquires no such right by merely being the first to make use of the water."
"In general, everyone has the right to use the water flowing in a stream through their property, and if someone diverts the water from its natural path or redirects it back, depriving them of access, the law will provide a remedy. However, one person can gain, through a grant, the right to redirect the water onto someone else's land, and a long history of use can serve as evidence of that grant. It’s also well established that merely being the first to use the water does not give a person any such right."
We are not aware that it has ever been held by any court of law, or even asserted, that a land-owner may not intercept the percolating water in his soil for any purpose and at his pleasure; nor have we in mind any case in which the draining out of water from a well, by drainage for agricultural purposes, has subjected the owner of the land to compensation.
We are not aware of any court that has ruled, or even claimed, that a landowner cannot intercept the water that seeps through their soil for any reason and at their discretion; nor do we know of any case where draining water from a well for farming purposes has made the landowner liable for compensation.
It is believed that a land-owner has the right to follow the rules of good husbandry in the drainage of his land, so far as the water of pressure is concerned, without responsibility for remote consequences to adjacent owners, to the owners of distant wells or springs that may be affected, or to mill-owners.
It is thought that a landowner has the right to manage the drainage of their land according to good practices, as far as water pressure is concerned, without being held responsible for any distant consequences to neighboring property owners, to the owners of far-off wells or springs that may be impacted, or to mill owners.
In considering the effect of drainage on streams and rivers, it appears that the results of such operations, so far as they can be appreciated, are, to lessen the value of water powers, by increasing the flow of water in times of[87] freshets, and lessening it in times of drought. It is supposed in this country, that clearing the land of timber has sensibly affected the value of "mill privileges," by increasing evaporation, and diminishing the streams. No mill-owner has been hardy enough to contend that a land-owner may not legally cut down his own timber, whatever the effect on the streams. So, we trust, no court will ever be found, which will restrict the land-owner in the highest culture of his soil, because his drainage may affect the capacity of a mill-stream to turn the water-wheels.
When looking at how drainage impacts streams and rivers, it seems that the outcomes of these actions, as much as we can understand them, tend to reduce the value of water power by increasing water flow during times of[87] flooding and decreasing it during droughts. In this country, it's believed that clearing land of timber has significantly impacted the value of "mill privileges" by increasing evaporation and reducing stream levels. No mill owner has been bold enough to argue that a landowner shouldn't be allowed to cut down their own timber, regardless of the impact on the streams. Therefore, we hope that no court will ever be found that would limit a landowner in fully utilizing their land, just because their drainage could affect the ability of a mill-stream to turn water wheels.
To return from our digression. It is necessary, in order to a correct apprehension of the work which our drains have to perform, to form a correct opinion as to how much of the surplus moisture in our field is due to each of the three causes to which we have referred—to wit, rain-water, which falls upon it; springs, which burst up from below; and water of pressure, stagnant in, or slowly percolating through it. The rain-tables will give us information as to the first; but as to the others, we must form our opinion from the structure of the earth around us, and observation upon the field itself, by its natural phenomena and by opening test-holes and experimental ditches. Having gained accurate knowledge of the sources of moisture, we may then be able to form a correct opinion whether our land requires drainage, and of the aid which Nature requires to carry off the surplus water.
To get back on track, it's important to understand the role our drains play by figuring out how much of the extra moisture in our fields comes from each of the three causes we've mentioned: rainwater that falls on it, springs that rise from below, and pressurized water that is either stagnant or slowly filtering through it. We can gather information about the first cause from rain data; for the others, we need to assess the soil structure around us and observe the field itself through its natural features as well as by digging test holes and experimental ditches. Once we have a clear understanding of the sources of moisture, we can better determine whether our land needs drainage and what assistance nature might need to remove the excess water.
WHAT LANDS REQUIRE DRAINAGE?
The more one studies the subject of drainage, the less inclined will he be to deal in general statements. "Do you think it is profitable to underdrain land?" is a question a thousand times asked, and yet is a question that admits of no direct general answer. Is it profitable to fence land? is it profitable to plow land? are questions of much the same character. The answers to them all depend[88] upon circumstances. There is land that may be profitably drained, and fenced, and plowed, and there is a great deal that had better be let alone. Whether draining is profitable or not, depends on the value and character of the land in question, as well as on its condition as to water. Where good land is worth one hundred dollars an acre, it might be profitably drained; when, if the same land were worth but the Government price of $1.25 an acre, it might be better to make a new purchase in the neighborhood, than to expend ten times its value on a tract that cannot be worth the cost of the operation. Drainage is an expensive operation, requiring much labor and capital, and not to be thought of in a pioneer settlement by individual emigrants. It comes after clearing, after the building of log-houses and mills, and schoolhouses, and churches, and roads, when capital and labor are abundant, and when the good lands, nature-drained, have been all taken up.
The more you study drainage, the less likely you are to make broad statements. "Do you think it's worth it to underdrain land?" is a question that's been asked a thousand times, and it doesn’t have a straightforward general answer. Is it worth it to fence land? Is it worth it to plow land? Those questions are pretty much the same. The answers depend[88] on the circumstances. Some land can be profitably drained, fenced, and plowed, while a lot of it is better left untouched. Whether draining is worthwhile depends on the value and type of land, as well as its water conditions. For instance, if good land is worth one hundred dollars an acre, it might be worth draining; however, if the same land is only worth the government price of $1.25 an acre, it might be smarter to buy a different piece of land nearby rather than spend ten times its value on a property that can’t justify the cost of drainage. Drainage is a costly process that requires a lot of labor and capital, and it's not something to consider in a frontier settlement by individual settlers. It comes after clearing land, building log cabins, mills, schools, churches, and roads, when labor and capital are plentiful, and when all the good, naturally drained lands have already been taken.
And, again, whether drainage is profitable, depends not only on the value, but on the character of the soil as to productiveness when drained. There is much land that would be improved by drainage, that cannot be profitably drained. It would improve almost any land in New England to apply to it a hundred loads of stable manure to the acre; but whether such application would be profitable, must depend upon the returns to be derived from it. Horace Greeley, who has his perceptions of common affairs, and especially of all that relates to progress, wide awake, said, in an address at Peekskill, N. Y.:
And once again, whether drainage is worthwhile depends not just on the value, but also on the type of soil in terms of its productivity when drained. There’s a lot of land that would benefit from drainage but can't be profitably drained. Almost any land in New England would improve with a hundred loads of stable manure per acre; however, whether such an application would be profitable depends on the returns it generates. Horace Greeley, who was very aware of common issues, especially anything related to progress, stated in a speech at Peekskill, N. Y.:
"My deliberate judgment is, that all lands which are worth plowing, which is not the case with all lands that are plowed, would be improved by draining; but I know that our farmers are neither able nor ready to drain to that extent, nor do I insist that it would pay while land is so cheap, and labor and tile so dear as at present. Ultimately, I believe, we shall tile-drain nearly all our level, or moderately sloping lands, that are worth cultivation."
"My considered opinion is that all lands suitable for plowing—though not all plowed lands are suitable—would benefit from draining. However, I recognize that our farmers are neither able nor willing to drain to that extent, and I don’t claim that it would be worth it while land is so cheap and labor and tile are so expensive right now. Eventually, I believe we will tile-drain almost all our flat or gently sloping lands that are good for farming."
Whether land would be improved by drainage, is one question, and whether the operation will pay, is quite another. The question whether it will pay, depends on the value of the land before drainage, the cost of the operation, and the value of the land when completed. And the cost of the operation includes always, not only the money and labor expended in it, but also the loss to other land of the owner, by diverting from it the capital which would otherwise be applied to it. Where labor and capital are limited so closely as they are in all our new States, it is a question not only how can they be profitably applied, but how can they be most profitably applied. A proprietor, who has money to loan at six per cent. interest, may well invest it in draining his land; when a working man, who is paying twelve per cent. interest for all the capital he employs, might ruin himself by making the same improvement.
Whether land would be better with drainage is one question, and whether the project will be worth it is another. The question of whether it will be worth it relies on the land's value before drainage, the expense of the work, and the land's value once it's done. The cost of the work includes not just the money and labor used, but also the loss to the owner's other land because of the money that would have otherwise been invested there. In all our new states, where resources and labor are so tightly constrained, it's not just about finding profitable ways to use them, but about finding the most profitable applications. A landowner who can invest money at six percent interest might invest in draining his land, while a laborer who is paying twelve percent interest on all his borrowed capital could end up in serious financial trouble by making the same improvement.
DO ALL LANDS REQUIRE DRAINAGE?
Our opinion is, that a great deal of land does not in any sense require drainage, and we should differ with Mr. Greeley, in the opinion that all lands worth ploughing, would be improved by drainage. Nature has herself thoroughly drained a large proportion of the soil. There is a great deal of finely-cultivated land in England, renting at from five to ten dollars per acre, that is thought there to require no drainage.
Our view is that a lot of land doesn't really need drainage, and we disagree with Mr. Greeley, who believes that all arable land would benefit from drainage. Nature has already drained a significant portion of the soil. There is plenty of well-cultivated land in England, renting for five to ten dollars per acre, that is considered to require no drainage.
In a published table of estimates by Mr. Denton, made in 1855, it is supposed that Great Britain, including England, Scotland, and Wales, contain 43,958,000 acres of land, cultivated and capable of cultivation; of which he sets down as "wet land," or land requiring drainage, 22,890,004 acres, or about one half the whole quantity. His estimate is, that only about 1,365,000 acres had then been permanently drained, and that it would cost about[90] 107 millions of pounds to complete the operation, estimating the cost at about twenty shillings, or five dollars per acre.
In a published table of estimates by Mr. Denton from 1855, it is estimated that Great Britain, which includes England, Scotland, and Wales, has 43,958,000 acres of land that are cultivated and suitable for cultivation. He defines "wet land," or land that needs drainage, as 22,890,004 acres, which is about half of the total amount. His estimate indicates that only about 1,365,000 acres had been permanently drained at that time, and it would require about[90] 107 million pounds to finish the drainage process, estimating the cost at around twenty shillings, or five dollars per acre.
These estimates are valuable in various views of our subject. They answer with some definiteness the question so often asked, whether all lands require drainage, and they tend to correct the impression, which is prevalent in this country, that there is something in the climate of Great Britain that makes drainage there essential to good cultivation on any land. The fact is not so. There, as in America, it depends upon the condition and character of the soil, more than upon the quantity of rain, or any condition of climate, whether drainage is required or not. Generally, it will be found on investigation, that so far as climate, including of course the quantity and regularity of the rain-fall, is concerned, drainage is more necessary in America than in Great Britain—the quantity of rain being in general greater in America, and far less regular in its fall. This subject, however, will receive a more careful consideration in another place.
These estimates are useful in various ways regarding our topic. They provide a fairly clear answer to the frequently asked question of whether all lands need drainage, and they help correct the widespread belief in this country that there's something about the climate in Great Britain that makes drainage essential for good farming on any land. That's simply not true. Whether drainage is needed or not depends more on the condition and type of soil than on the amount of rain or any climate factors, just like in America. Generally, if you look into it, you'll find that, considering climate—which includes the amount and consistency of rainfall—drainage is more necessary in America than in Great Britain. Rainfall is typically heavier in America and much less consistent. However, this topic will be examined more thoroughly elsewhere.
If in America, as in Great Britain, one half the cultivable land require drainage, or even if but a tenth of that half require it, the subject is of vast importance, and it is no less important for us to apprehend clearly what part of our land does not require this expenditure, than to learn how to treat properly that which does require it.
If in America, just like in Great Britain, half of the usable land needs drainage, or even if just a tenth of that half needs it, this is hugely important. It's just as essential for us to clearly understand which parts of our land do not need this investment as it is to figure out how to properly manage the areas that do need it.
To resume the inquiry, what lands require drainage? it may be answered—
To continue the inquiry, what lands need drainage? The answer is—
ALL LANDS OVERFLOWED IN SUMMER REQUIRE DRAINAGE.
Lands overflowed by the regular tides of the ocean require drainage, whether they lie upon the sea-shore, or upon rivers or bays. But this drainage involves embankments, and a peculiar mode of procedure, of which it is not now proposed to treat.[91]
Lands affected by the regular tides of the ocean need drainage, whether they are on the coastline or near rivers or bays. However, this drainage requires embankments and a specific method of carrying it out, which is not the focus of this discussion.[91]
Again, all lands overflowed by Summer freshets, as upon rivers and smaller streams, require drainage. These, too, usually require embankments, and excavations of channels or outlets, not within the usual scope of what is termed thorough drainage. For a further answer to the question—what lands require drainage? the reader is referred to the chapters which treat of the effect of drainage upon the soil.
Again, all lands flooded by summer floods, like rivers and smaller streams, need drainage. These areas typically also need embankments and the digging of channels or outlets, which go beyond what is usually called thorough drainage. For a more detailed answer to the question—what lands need drainage?—the reader can refer to the chapters that discuss the effect of drainage on the soil.
SWAMPS AND BOGS REQUIRE DRAINAGE.
No argument is necessary to convince rational men that the very extensive tracts of land, which are usually known as swamps and bogs, must, in some way, be relieved of their surplus water, before they can be rendered fit for cultivation. The treatment of this class of wet lands is so different from that applied to what we term upland, that it will be found more convenient to pass the subject by with this allusion, at present, and consider it more systematically under a separate head.
No convincing is needed to show reasonable people that the large areas of land often called swamps and bogs must be drained of excess water before they can be suitable for farming. The approach to managing these wetland areas is so different from how we handle what we refer to as upland that it makes more sense to briefly mention it here and look at it more thoroughly in a separate section later.
ALL HIGH LANDS THAT CONTAIN TOO MUCH WATER AT ANY SEASON, REQUIRE DRAINAGE.
Draining has been defined, "The art of rendering land not only so free of moisture as that no superfluous water shall remain in it, but that no water shall remain in it so long as to injure, or even retard the healthy growth of plants required for the use of man and beast."
Draining is defined as "the process of making land not just free of excess moisture, but also ensuring that no water stays long enough to harm or even slow down the healthy growth of plants needed for humans and animals."
Some plants grow in water. Some even spring from the bottom of ponds, and have no other life than such a position affords. But most plants, useful to man, are drowned by being overflowed even for a short time, and are injured by any stagnant water about their roots. Why this is so, it is not easy to explain. Most of our knowledge on these points, is derived from observation. We know that fishes live in water, and if we would propagate[92] them, we prepare ponds and streams for the purpose. Our domestic animals live on land, and we do not put them into fish-ponds to pasture. There are useful plants which thrive best in water. Such is the cranberry, notwithstanding all that has been said of its cultivation on upland. And there are domestic fowls, such as ducks and geese, that require pools of water; but we do not hence infer that our hens and chickens would be better for daily immersion. All lands, then, require drainage, that contain too much water, at any season for the intended crops.
Some plants grow in water. Some even emerge from the bottoms of ponds and live solely in that environment. But most plants that are useful to humans are harmed when they are submerged, even for a short time, and they suffer from any stagnant water around their roots. It’s not easy to explain why this is. Most of our understanding comes from observation. We know that fish live in water, and if we want to raise them, we create ponds and streams for that purpose. Our domesticated animals live on land, and we don’t put them in fish ponds to graze. There are useful plants that thrive best in water, like cranberries, despite what has been said about growing them on dry land. And there are domestic birds, such as ducks and geese, that need pools of water; however, we don’t conclude that our hens and chicks would benefit from being submerged every day. Therefore, all land that has too much water at any time requires drainage for the intended crops.
This will be found to be an important element in our rule. Land may require drainage for Indian corn, that may not require it for grass. Most of the cultivated grasses are improved in quality, and not lessened in quantity, by the removal of stagnant water in Summer; but there are reasons for drainage for hoed crops, which do not apply to our mowing fields. In New England, we have for a few weeks a perfect race with Nature, to get our seeds into the ground before it is too late. Drained land may be plowed and planted several weeks earlier than land undrained, and this additional time for preparation is of great value to the farmer. Much of this same land would be, by the first of June, by the time the ordinary planting season is past, sufficiently drained by Nature, and a grass crop upon it would be, perhaps, not at all benefitted by thorough-drainage; so that it is often an important consideration with reference to this operation, whether a given portion of our farm may not be most profitably kept in permanent grass, and maintained in fertility by top-dressing, or by occasional plowing and reseeding in Autumn. It is certainly convenient to have all our fields adapted to our usual rotation, and it is for each man to balance for himself this convenience against the cost of drainage in each particular case.
This will turn out to be an important part of our guidelines. Some land may need drainage for corn, but not for grass. Most cultivated grasses actually improve in quality and maintain their quantity when stagnant water is removed in the summer; however, there are specific reasons for draining land for crops that don’t apply to our mowing fields. In New England, we have a short window to race against nature to get our seeds in the ground before it’s too late. Drained land can be plowed and planted several weeks earlier than undrained land, and this extra time for preparation is extremely valuable to farmers. Much of this same land would be naturally drained by the first of June, by which time the regular planting season is over, and a grass crop on it might not benefit at all from thorough drainage. Therefore, it’s often an important consideration regarding this process whether a certain portion of our farm could be more profitably kept in permanent grass and maintained in fertility through top-dressing or by occasionally plowing and reseeding in the fall. It’s definitely convenient to have all our fields suited to our usual crop rotation, and it’s up to each person to weigh this convenience against the cost of drainage in each specific case.
What particular crops are most injured by stagnant[93] water in the soil, or by the too tardy percolation of rain-water, may be determined by observation. How stagnant water injures plants, is not, as has been suggested, easily understood in all its relations. It doubtless retards the decomposition of the substances which supply their nutriment, and it reduces the temperature of the soil. It has been suggested, that it prevents or checks perspiration and introsusception, and it excludes the air which is essential to the vegetation of most plants. Whatever the theory, the fact is acknowledged, that stagnant water in as well as on the soil, impedes the growth of all our valuable crops, and that drainage soon cures the evil, by removing the effect with its cause. And the remedy seems to be almost instantaneous; for, on most upland, it is found that by the removal of stagnant water, the soil is in a single season rendered fit for the growth of cultivated crops. In low meadows, composed of peat and swamp mud, in many cases, exposure to the air for a year or two after drainage, is often found to enhance the fertility of the soil, which contains, frequently, acids which need correction.
What specific crops suffer the most from stagnant[93] water in the soil or from the slow drainage of rainwater can be determined through observation. The ways stagnant water harms plants are not as simple as it might seem. It likely slows down the breakdown of the nutrients they need and lowers the soil temperature. Some have suggested that it inhibits perspiration and absorption, and it cuts off the air essential for most plants to grow. Regardless of the theory, it’s a fact that stagnant water in and on the soil hinders the growth of all our important crops, and drainage quickly resolves the issue by eliminating both the cause and the effect. The remedy appears to be almost immediate; in most upland areas, it has been observed that removing stagnant water makes the soil suitable for growing crops within just one season. In low meadows made of peat and swamp mud, letting the soil air out for a year or two after drainage often improves its fertility, especially since it often contains acids that need to be balanced.
INDICATIONS OF TOO MUCH MOISTURE.
It has already been suggested, that motives of convenience may induce us to drain our lands—that we may have a longer season in which to work them; and that there may be cases where the crop would flourish if planted at precisely the right time, where yet we cannot well, without drainage, seasonably prepare for the crop. Generally, however, lands too wet seasonably to plant, will give indications, throughout the season, of hidden water producing its ill effects.
It’s been noted that convenience might motivate us to drain our land so that we have a longer growing season. There are situations where a crop would thrive if planted at just the right time, but without drainage, we can’t effectively prepare for it in time. However, in most cases, land that is too wet to plant will show signs throughout the season of excess water causing negative effects.
If the land be in grass, we find that aquatic plants, like rushes or water grasses, spring up with the seeds we have sown, and, in a few years, have possession of the field, and we are soon compelled to plow up the sod, and lay[94] it again to grass. If it be in wheat or other grain, we see the field spotted and uneven; here a portion on some slight elevation, tall and dark colored, and healthy; and there a little depression, sparsely covered with a low and sickly growth. An American traveling in England in the growing season, will always be struck with the perfect evenness of the fields of grain upon the well-drained soil. Journeying through a considerable portion of England and Wales with intelligent English farmers, we were struck with their nice perception on this point.
If the land is covered in grass, we notice that aquatic plants, like rushes or water grasses, start to grow alongside the seeds we've sown, and within a few years, they take over the field. We're soon forced to plow the grass under and replant it with grass again. If it's planted with wheat or other grains, the field looks uneven; some areas on slight hills are tall, dark, and healthy, while other low spots have only a sparse and sickly growth. An American traveling in England during the growing season will always be impressed by the perfect evenness of the grain fields on well-drained soil. While traveling through much of England and Wales with knowledgeable English farmers, we noticed their keen insight regarding this matter.
The slightest variation in the color of the wheat in the same or different fields, attracted their instant attention.
The smallest change in the color of the wheat in the same or different fields immediately caught their attention.
"That field is not well-drained; the corn is too light-colored." "There is cold water at the bottom there; the corn cannot grow;" were the constant criticisms, as we passed across the country. Inequalities that, in our more careless cultivation, we should pass by without observation, were at once explained by reference to the condition of the land, as to water.
"That field doesn't drain well; the corn is too pale." "There's cold water down there; the corn can't grow," were the ongoing complaints as we traveled across the country. Issues that we would typically overlook in our more relaxed farming were immediately addressed by pointing out the land's condition regarding water.
The drill-sowing of wheat, and the careful weeding it with the horse-hoe and by hand, are additional reasons why the English fields should present a uniform appearance, and why any inequalities should be fairly referable to the condition of the soil.
The method of sowing wheat with drills and the thorough weeding done with a horse hoe and by hand are extra reasons why English fields should look uniform, and why any differences should be mainly due to the soil condition.
Upon a crop of Indian corn, the cold water lurking below soon places its unmistakable mark. The blade comes up yellow and feeble. It takes courage in a few days of bright sunshine in June, and tries to look hopeful, but a shower or an east wind again checks it. It had already more trouble than it could bear, and turns pale again. Tropical July and August induce it to throw up a feeble stalk, and to attempt to spindle and silk, like other corn. It goes through all the forms of vegetation, and yields at last a single nubbin for the pig. Indian corn[95] must have land that is dry in Summer, or it cannot repay the labor of cultivation.
On a patch of Indian corn, the cold water beneath quickly leaves its clear impact. The plant emerges yellow and weak. It gathers some strength during a few sunny days in June, trying to appear hopeful, but a rain shower or an east wind sets it back again. It's already faced more challenges than it can handle, and it starts to wither once more. The hot months of July and August push it to grow a weak stalk and attempt to develop silks, just like other corn. It goes through all the stages of growth, ultimately producing just a single cob for the pig. Indian corn[95] needs dry land in the summer, or it won’t yield enough to justify the effort put into growing it.
Careful attention to the subject will soon teach any farmer what parts of his land are injured by too much water; and having determined that, the next question should be, whether the improvement of it by drainage will justify the cost of the operation.
Careful attention to the subject will soon teach any farmer which parts of their land are affected by too much water; and after figuring that out, the next question should be whether improving it through drainage will be worth the cost of the process.
WILL IT PAY?
Drainage is a permanent investment. It is not an operation like the application of manure, which we should expect to see returned in the form of salable crops in one or two years, or ten at most, nor like the labor applied in cultivating an annual crop. The question is not whether drainage will pay in one or two years, but will it pay in the long run? Will it, when completed, return to the farmer a fair rate of interest for the money expended? Will it be more profitable, on the whole, than an investment in bank or railway shares, or the purchase of Western lands? Or, to put the question in the form in which an English land-owner would put it, will the rent of the land improved by drainage, be permanently increased enough to pay a fair interest on the cost of the improvement?
Drainage is a lasting investment. It's not like adding manure, which we expect to see rewards from in the form of marketable crops in a year or two, or a maximum of ten, nor is it comparable to the work put into growing a yearly crop. The real question isn’t whether drainage will pay off in one or two years, but rather if it will be worthwhile in the long term. Once it's done, will it provide the farmer with a reasonable return on the money spent? Will it be more profitable overall than investing in bank shares, railway stocks, or buying land in the West? To restate this as an English landowner might, will the value of the land improved through drainage increase enough to provide a fair return on the cost of the upgrade?
Let us bring out this idea clearly to the American farmer by a familiar illustration. Your field is worth to you now one hundred dollars an acre. It pays you, in a series of years, through a rotation of planting, sowing, and grass, a nett profit of six dollars an acre, above all expenses of cultivation and care.
Let’s make this idea clear to the American farmer with a familiar example. Your field is currently worth one hundred dollars an acre. Over the years, through a cycle of planting, sowing, and growing grass, it gives you a net profit of six dollars an acre, after covering all cultivation and maintenance costs.
Suppose, now, it will cost one-third of a hundred dollars an acre to drain it, and you expend on each three acres one hundred dollars, what must the increase of your crops be, to make this a fair investment? Had you expended the hundred dollars in labor, to produce a crop of[96] cabbages, you ought to get your money all back, with a fair profit, the first year. Had you expended it in guano or other special manures, whose beneficial properties are exhausted in some two or three years, your expenditure should be returned within that period. But the improvement by drainage is permanent; it is done for all time to come. If, therefore, your drained land shall pay you a fair rate of interest on the cost of drainage, it is a good investment. Six per cent. is the most common rate of interest, and if, therefore, each three acres of your drained land shall pay you an increased annual income of six dollars, your money is fairly invested. This is at the rate of two dollars an acre. How much increase of crop will pay this two dollars? In the common rotation of Indian corn, potatoes, oats, wheat, or barley, and grass, two or three bushels of corn, five or six bushels of potatoes, as many bushels of oats, a bushel or two of wheat, two or three bushels of barley, will pay the two dollars. Who, that has been kept back in his Spring's work by the wetness of his land, or has been compelled to re-plant because his seed has rotted in the ground, or has experienced any of the troubles incident to cold wet seasons, will not admit at once, that any land which Nature has not herself thoroughly drained, will, in this view, pay for such improvement?
Suppose it costs one-third of a hundred dollars per acre to drain the land, and you spend one hundred dollars on every three acres. What must the increase in your crops be to make this a good investment? If you had spent the hundred dollars on labor to produce a crop of [96] cabbages, you should be able to get all your money back with a reasonable profit in the first year. If you had spent it on guano or other fertilizers, which lose their effectiveness in about two to three years, you should recoup that spending within that timeframe. However, drainage is a permanent improvement; it lasts indefinitely. Therefore, if your drained land provides a fair rate of return on the cost of drainage, it’s a smart investment. The most common interest rate is six percent, so if each three acres of your drained land earns you an extra six dollars a year, your investment is solid. That’s two dollars per acre. How much extra crop do you need to earn that two dollars? In a typical rotation of corn, potatoes, oats, wheat, barley, and grass, two or three bushels of corn, five or six bushels of potatoes, the same amount of oats, one or two bushels of wheat, and two or three bushels of barley will cover the two dollars. Anyone who has been held back in their spring work by wet land or had to replant because their seeds rotted, or who has faced any difficulties due to cold, wet seasons, will surely agree that any land which Nature hasn’t drained will benefit from this kind of improvement.
But far more than this is claimed for drainage. In England, where such operations have been reduced to a system, careful estimates have been made, not only of the cost of drainage, but of the increase of crops by reason of the operation.
But much more than this is claimed for drainage. In England, where these processes have been organized into a system, precise calculations have been made, not just of the cost of drainage, but of the increase in crop yields due to the operation.
In answer to questions proposed by a Board of Commissioners, in 1848, to persons of the highest reputation for knowledge on this point, the increase of crops by drainage was variously stated, but in no case at less than a paying rate. One gentleman says: "A sixth of increase in[97] produce of grain crops may be taken as the very lowest estimate, and, in actual result, it is seldom less than one-fourth. In very many cases, after some following cultivation, the produce is doubled, whilst the expense of working the land is much lessened." Another says: "In many instances, a return of fully 25 per cent. on the expenditure is realized, and in some even more." A third remarks, "My experience and observation have chiefly been in heavy clay soils, where the result of drainage is eminently beneficial, and where I should estimate the increased crop at six to ten bushels (wheat) per statute acre."
In response to questions posed by a Board of Commissioners in 1848 to individuals known for their knowledge on this subject, the increase in crop yields from drainage varied in estimates, but none suggested it was less than profitable. One individual stated, "A sixth increase in grain crop yield can be considered the absolute minimum estimate, and in reality, it's often closer to one-fourth. In many cases, after subsequent cultivation, the yield is doubled, while the cost of managing the land is significantly reduced." Another mentioned, "In several instances, a return of over 25 percent on the investment is achieved, and in some cases, even higher." A third person commented, "My experience and observations have primarily been with heavy clay soils, where the benefits of drainage are particularly notable, and I would estimate the yield increase at six to ten bushels (wheat) per statute acre."
These are estimates made upon lands that had already been under cultivation. In addition to such lands as are merely rendered less productive by surplus water, we have, even on our hard New England farms—on side hills, where springs burst out, or at the foot of declivities, where the land is flat, or in runs, which receive the natural drainage of higher lands—many places which are absolutely unfit for cultivation, and worse than useless, because they separate those parts of the farm which can be cultivated. If, of these wet portions, we make by draining, good, warm, arable land, it is not a mere question of per centage or profit; it is simply the question whether the land, when drained, is worth more than the cost of drainage. If it be, how much more satisfactory, and how much more profitable it is, to expend money in thus reclaiming the waste places of our farms, and so uniting the detached fields into a compact, systematic whole, than to follow the natural bent of American minds, and "annex" our neighbor's fields by purchasing.
These are estimates based on lands that were already being farmed. Besides the areas that are just less productive due to excess water, we also have many spots on our tough New England farms—on hillsides with springs, at the base of sloped land where it flattens out, or in channels that take natural drainage from higher ground—that are completely unsuitable for farming. These areas are worse than useless because they divide the parts of the farm that can be cultivated. If we can drain these wet areas to create good, warm, arable land, it’s not just a matter of percentages or profit; it’s simply a question of whether the land, once drained, is worth more than the cost of drainage. If it is, how much more rewarding and profitable it is to invest in reclaiming the wasted areas of our farms, thereby connecting the separated fields into a cohesive, organized whole, rather than just following the common trend of trying to "annex" our neighbor’s fields by buying them.
Any number of instances could be given of the increased value of lands in England by drainage, but they are of little practical value. The facts, that the Government has made large loans in aid of the process, that private[98] drainage companies are executing extensive works all over the kingdom, and that large land-holders are draining at their own cost, are conclusive evidence to any rational mind, that drainage in Great Britain, at least, well repays the cost of the operation.
Any number of examples could be provided of how much land values in England have increased due to drainage, but they aren't very useful in practice. The facts that the government has made large loans to support the process, that private drainage companies are carrying out extensive projects across the country, and that major landowners are draining their land at their own expense are clear evidence to any reasonable person that drainage in Great Britain, at least, pays off well for the investment.
In another chapter may be found accurate statements of American farmers of their drainage operations, in different States, from which the reader will be able to form a correct opinion, whether draining in this country is likely to prove a profitable operation.
In another chapter, you can find detailed accounts from American farmers about their drainage work in different states. This will help readers form an informed opinion on whether draining farmland in this country is likely to be a profitable endeavor.
CHAPTER V[99]
VARIOUS METHODS OF DRAINAGE.
Open Ditches.—Slope of Banks.—Brush Drains.—Ridge and Furrow.—Plug-Draining.—Mole-Draining.—Mole-Plow.—Wedge and Shoulder Drains.—Larch Tubes.—Drains of Fence Rails, and Poles.—Peat Tiles.—Stone Drains Injured by Moles.—Downing's Giraffes.—Illustrations of Various Kinds of Stone Drains.
Open Ditches.—Slope of Banks.—Brush Drains.—Ridge and Furrow.—Plug-Draining.—Mole-Draining.—Mole-Plow.—Wedge and Shoulder Drains.—Larch Tubes.—Drains Made from Fence Rails and Poles.—Peat Tiles.—Stone Drains Damaged by Moles.—Downing's Giraffes.—Illustrations of Different Types of Stone Drains.
OPEN DITCHES.
The most obvious mode of getting rid of surface-water is, to cut a ditch on the surface to a lower place, and let it run. So, if the only object were to drain a piece of land merely for a temporary purpose—as, where land is too wet to ditch properly in the first instance, and it is necessary to draw off part of the surplus water before systematic operations are commenced—an open ditch is, perhaps, the cheapest method to be adopted.
The easiest way to get rid of surface water is to dig a ditch that leads to a lower area and let the water flow away. So, if the only goal is to drain a piece of land temporarily—like when the land is too wet to be properly ditched at first and you need to remove some of the excess water before beginning more organized efforts—an open ditch is probably the most cost-effective solution.
Again: where land to be drained is part of a large sloping tract, and water runs down, at certain seasons, in large quantities upon the surface, an open catch-water-ditch may be absolutely necessary. This condition of circumstances is very common in mountainous districts, where the rain which falls on the hills flows down, either on the visible surface or on the rock-formation under the soil, and breaks out at the foot, causing swamps, often high up on the hill-sides. Often, too, in clay districts, where sand or loam two or three feet deep rests on tough clay, we see broad sloping tracts, which form our best grass-fields.
Again: where land that needs to be drained is part of a large sloping area, and water runs down in large amounts across the surface during certain seasons, an open catch-water ditch may be absolutely necessary. This situation is very common in mountainous regions, where rain that falls on the hills flows down, either on the surface or through the rock layer beneath the soil, and seeps out at the bottom, creating swamps, often high up on the hillside. Additionally, in clay areas where sand or loam two or three feet deep sits on tough clay, we often see broad sloping fields that make great grasslands.
If we are attempting to drain the lower part of such a[100] slope, we shall find that the water from the upper part flows down in large quantities upon us, and an open ditch may be most economical as a header, to cut off the down-flowing water; though, in most cases, a covered drain may be as efficient.
If we're trying to drain the lower part of a[100] slope, we’ll notice that a lot of water from the upper part flows down to us. An open ditch could be the most cost-effective way to block the flowing water, although in many situations, a covered drain can work just as well.
At the outlets, too, of our tile or stone drains, when we come down nearly to the level of the stream which receives our drainage-water, we find it convenient, often, and indeed necessary, to use open ditches—perhaps only a foot or two deep—to carry off the water discharged. These ditches are of great importance, and should be finished with care, because, if they become obstructed, they cause back-water in the drains, and may ruin the whole work.
At the ends of our tile or stone drains, when we get close to the level of the stream that takes our drainage water, we often find it helpful, and sometimes essential, to use open ditches—usually just a foot or two deep—to carry away the discharged water. These ditches are very important and should be constructed carefully, because if they get blocked, they can create backflow in the drains and potentially ruin the entire system.
Open drains are thus essential auxiliaries to the best plans of thorough drainage; and, whatever opinion may be entertained of their economy, many farmers are so situated that they feel obliged to resort to them for the present, or abandon all idea of draining their wet lands. We will, therefore, give some hints as to the best manner of constructing open drains; and then suggest, in the form of objections to them, such considerations as shall lead the proprietor who adopts this mode to consider carefully his plan of operations in the outset, with a view to obviate, as much as possible, the manifest embarrassments occasioned by them.
Open drains are essential support systems for effective drainage plans; and, regardless of the opinions about their cost-effectiveness, many farmers find themselves in situations where they feel compelled to use them for now, or give up on the idea of draining their wet lands entirely. Therefore, we will provide some tips on how to construct open drains properly; and then present objections to them as considerations that should lead the landowner who chooses this method to carefully consider their plan of action from the start, in order to minimize the obvious challenges they may create.
As to the location of drains in swamps and peculiarly wet places, directions may be found in another chapter. We here propose only to treat of the mode of forming open drains, after their location is fixed.
As for where to place drains in swamps and especially wet areas, you can find guidance in another chapter. Here, we will only discuss how to create open drains once their location is established.
The worst of all drains is an open ditch, of equal width from top to bottom. It cannot stand a single season, in any climate or soil, without being seriously impaired by the frosts or the heavy rains. All open drains should be sloping; and it is ascertained, by experiment, what is the[101] best, or, as it is sometimes expressed, the natural slope, on different kinds of soil. If earth be tipped from a cart down a bank, and be left exposed to the action of the weather, it will rest, and finally remain, at a regular angle or inclination, varying from 21° to 55° with the horizon, according to the nature of the soil. The natural slope of common earth is found to be about 33° 42'; and this is the inclination usually adopted by railroad engineers for their embankments.
The worst type of drainage is an open ditch that has the same width from top to bottom. It can’t survive a single season, in any climate or type of soil, without being severely damaged by frost or heavy rain. All open drains should be sloped; experiments have shown what the[101] best or, as it is sometimes called, the natural slope is for different types of soil. When dirt is dumped from a cart down a slope and left exposed to the elements, it will settle and eventually stay at a consistent angle, ranging from 21° to 55° with the horizon, depending on the type of soil. The natural slope of regular earth is determined to be about 33° 42', and this is the angle typically used by railroad engineers for their embankments.
If the banks of the open ditch are thus sloped, they will have the least possible tendency to wash away, or break down by frost.
If the banks of the open ditch are sloped this way, they will be less likely to wash away or break down from freezing.
Again: where open ditches are adopted in mowing fields, they may, if not very deep, be sloped still lower than the natural slope, and seeded down to the bottom; so that no land will be lost, and so that teams may pass across them.
Again: where open ditches are used in mowing fields, they can, if not very deep, be sloped even lower than the natural slope and planted with grass at the bottom; this way, no land will be wasted, and teams can pass over them.
This amounts, in fact, to the old ridge and furrow system, which was almost universal in England before tiles were used, and is sometimes seen practiced in this country. The land, by that system, is back-furrowed in narrow lands, till it is laid up into beds, sloping from the tops, or backs, to the furrows which constitute the drains. This mode of culture is very ancient, and is probably referred to in the language of the Psalmist, in the Scriptures: "Thou waterest the ridges thereof abundantly, thou settlest the furrows thereof, thou makest it soft with showers."
This is basically the old ridge and furrow system, which was almost everywhere in England before tiles were used, and is sometimes still practiced here. With this system, the land is back-furrowed into narrow strips until it's formed into beds that slope from the tops to the furrows that act as drains. This cultivation method is very ancient and is likely what the Psalmist refers to in the Scriptures: "You water its furrows abundantly, you settle its ridges, you make it soft with showers."
The objections to open ditches, as compared with under-drains, may be briefly stated thus:
The objections to open ditches, compared to under-drains, can be summed up like this:
1. They are expensive. The excavation of a sloping drain is much greater than that of an upright drain. An open drain must have a width of one or two feet at the bottom, to receive the earth that always must, to some extent, wash into it. An open drain requires to be cleaned out once a year, to keep it in good order. There is a large[102] quantity of earth from an open drain to be disposed of, either by spreading or hauling away. Thus, a drain of this kind is costly at the outset, and requires constant labor and care to preserve it in working condition.
1. They are expensive. Digging a sloping drain costs a lot more than digging a straight drain. An open drain needs to be one or two feet wide at the bottom to accommodate the earth that will inevitably wash into it. An open drain has to be cleaned out once a year to keep it in good shape. There's a significant[102] amount of soil from an open drain that needs to be dealt with, either by spreading it out or hauling it away. So, this type of drain is expensive to install and requires ongoing effort and maintenance to keep it functioning properly.
2. They are not permanent. A properly laid underdrain will last half a century or more, but an open drain, especially if deep, has a constant tendency to fill up. Besides, the action of frost and water and vegetation has a continual operation to obstruct open ditches. Rushes and water-grasses spring up luxuriantly in the wet and slimy bottom, and often, in a single season, retard the flow of water, so that it will stand many inches deep where the fall is slight. The slightest accident, as the treading of cattle, the track of a loaded cart, the burrowing of animals, dams up the water and lessens the effect of the drain. Hence, we so often see meadows which have been drained in this way going back, in a few years, into wild grass and rushes.
2. They are not permanent. A well-installed underdrain can last fifty years or more, but an open drain, especially if it's deep, will constantly fill up. Additionally, frost, water, and vegetation continually block open ditches. Rushes and water-grasses flourish in the wet, muddy bottom and can often slow down water flow so much in just one season that it stands several inches deep where the slope is gentle. Even the smallest issues, like cattle walking over, the tracks of a heavy cart, or animals digging, can obstruct the water and reduce the drain's effectiveness. This is why we often see meadows that have been drained in this way reverting back to wild grass and rushes within just a few years.
3. They obstruct good husbandry. In the chapter upon the effects of drainage on the condition of the soil, we suggest, in detail, the hindrances which open ditches present to the convenient cultivation of the land, and, especially, how they obstruct the farmer in his plowing, his mowing, his raking, and the general laying out of his land for convenient culture.
3. They hinder good farming practices. In the chapter about how drainage affects soil conditions, we detail the obstacles that open ditches create for easy cultivation of the land, particularly how they make it difficult for farmers when plowing, mowing, raking, and generally organizing their land for efficient farming.
4. They occupy too much land. If a ditch have an upright bank, it is so soft that cattle will not step within several feet of it in plowing, and thus a strip is lost for culture, or must be broken up by hand. If, indeed, we can get the plow near it, there being no land to rest against, the last furrow cannot be turned from the ditch, and if it be turned into it, must be thrown out by hand. If the banks be sloped to the bottom, and the land be thus laid into beds or ridges, the appearance of the field may, indeed, be improved, but there is still a loss of soil;[103] for the soil is all removed from the furrow, which will always produce rushes and water-grass, and carried to the ridge, where it doubles the depth of the natural soil. Thus, instead of a field of uniform condition, as to moisture and temperature and fertility, we have strips of wet, cold, and poor soil, alternating with dry, warm, and rich soil, establishing a sort of gridiron system, neither beautiful, convenient, nor profitable.
4. They take up too much land. If a ditch has a steep bank, it's so soft that cattle won't go within several feet of it when plowing, which means a strip is lost for farming or needs to be tilled by hand. Even if we can get the plow close enough, with no land to brace against, the last furrow can't be turned away from the ditch, and if it gets turned into it, it has to be dug out by hand. If the banks are sloped to the bottom, and the land is laid out in beds or ridges, the look of the field may actually improve, but there's still a loss of soil;[103] because the soil is all taken from the furrow, which will always grow rushes and water-grass, and it gets moved to the ridge, where it doubles the depth of the natural soil. So instead of having a field with even conditions for moisture, temperature, and fertility, we end up with strips of wet, cold, and poor soil alternating with dry, warm, and rich soil, creating a sort of grid pattern that's neither attractive, practical, nor beneficial.
5. The manure washes off and is lost. The three or four feet of water which the clouds annually give us in rain and snow, must either go off by evaporation, or by filtration, or run off upon the surface. Under the title of Rain and Evaporation, it will be seen that not much more than half this quantity goes off by evaporation, leaving a vast quantity to pass off through or upon the soil. If lands are ridged up, the manure and finer portions of the soil are, to a great extent, washed away into the open ditches and lost. Of the water which filters downwards, a large portion enters open ditches near the surface, before the fertilizing elements have been strained out; whereas, in covered drains of proper depth, the water is filtered through a mass of soil sufficiently deep to take from it the fertilizing substances, and discharge it, comparatively pure, from the field. In a paper by Prof. Way (11th Jour. Roy. Ag. Soc.), on "The Power of Soils to retain Manure," will be found interesting illustrations of the filtering qualities of different kinds of soil.
5. The manure washes away and gets lost. The three or four feet of water that clouds give us in rain and snow each year must either evaporate, filter down, or runoff on the surface. Under the section titled Rain and Evaporation, it will be shown that only a little over half of this amount evaporates, leaving a huge quantity to either pass through or over the soil. If the land is ridged, a lot of the manure and finer soil gets washed away into open ditches and is lost. A significant portion of the water that filters down enters open ditches near the surface before the nutrient-rich elements have been removed; meanwhile, in properly constructed covered drains, the water is filtered through a deep layer of soil that extracts the nutrients, releasing it back into the field in a relatively clean state. In a paper by Prof. Way (11th Jour. Roy. Ag. Soc.), titled "The Power of Soils to Retain Manure," you'll find interesting examples of the filtering abilities of different types of soil.
In addition to the above reasons for preferring covered drains, it has been asserted by one of the most skillful drainers in the world (Mr. Parkes), "that a proper covered drain of the same depth as an open ditch, will drain a greater breadth of land than the ditch can effect. The sides of the ditch," he says, "become dried and plastered, and covered with vegetation; and even while they are[104] free from vegetation, their absorptive power is inferior to the covered drain."
In addition to the reasons mentioned for favoring covered drains, one of the most skilled drainers in the world, Mr. Parkes, has claimed, "a properly designed covered drain at the same depth as an open ditch can effectively drain a wider area of land than the ditch can. The sides of the ditch," he explains, "become dry and hard, and are often covered with plants; and even when they are[104] clear of plants, their ability to absorb is less effective than that of a covered drain."
Of the depth, direction, and distance of drains, our views will be found under the appropriate heads. They apply alike to open and covered drains.
Of the depth, direction, and distance of drains, our opinions will be found under the relevant sections. These apply to both open and covered drains.
BRUSH DRAINS.
Having a farm destitute of stones, before tiles were known among us, we made several experiments with covered drains filled with brush. Some of those drains operated well for eight or ten years; others caved in and became useless in three or four years, according to the condition of the soil.
Having a farm without stones, before we knew about tiles, we tried several experiments with covered drains filled with brush. Some of those drains worked well for eight or ten years; others collapsed and became useless in three or four years, depending on the condition of the soil.
In a wet swamp a brush drain endures much longer than in sandy land, which is dry a part of the year, because the brush decays in dry land, but will prove nearly imperishable in land constantly wet. In a peat or muck swamp, we should expect that such drains, if carefully constructed, might last twenty years, but that in a sandy loam they would be quite unreliable for a single year.
In a wet swamp, a brush drain lasts much longer than it does in sandy soil, which is dry part of the year, because brush rots in dry conditions but can last almost forever in constantly wet areas. In a peat or muck swamp, we would expect these drains, if built carefully, to last around twenty years, but in sandy loam, they would be quite unreliable for even a single year.
Our failure on upland with brush drains, has resulted, not from the decay of the wood, but from the entrance of sand, which obstructed the channel. Moles and field-mice find these drains the very day they are laid, and occupy them as permanent homes ever after.
Our failure with the brush drains in the upland area hasn't been due to the wood rotting, but rather because sand got in and blocked the channel. Moles and field mice discover these drains the very day they’re installed and make them their permanent homes from that point on.
Those little animals live partly upon earth-worms, which they find by burrowing after them in the ground, and partly upon insects, and vegetation above ground. They have a great deal of business, which requires convenient passages leading from their burrows to the day-light, and drains in which they live will always be found perforated with holes from the surface. In the Spring, or in heavy showers, the water runs in streams into these holes, breaks down the soft soil as it goes, and finally the top begins to fall in, and the channel is choked up, and the work ruined.[105] We have tried many precautions against this kind of accident, but none that was effectual on light land.
Those little animals feed partly on earthworms, which they find by digging into the ground, and partly on insects and plants above ground. They have a lot of activity that requires convenient paths leading from their burrows to the surface, and the areas where they live are always marked by holes from the top. In the spring or during heavy rain, water streams into these holes, washes away the soft soil, and eventually causes the surface to collapse, blocking the passage and ruining their work.[105] We have tried many ways to prevent this kind of problem, but nothing has worked effectively on sandy soil.
The general mode of construction is this: Open the trench to the depth required, and about 12 inches wide at the bottom. Lay into this poles of four or five inches diameter at the butt, leaving an open passage between. Then lay in brush of any size, the coarsest at the bottom, filling the drain to within a foot of the surface, and covering with pine, or hemlock, or spruce boughs. Upon these lay turf, carefully cut, as close as possible. The brush should be laid but-end up stream, as it obstructs the water less in this way. Fill up with soil a foot above the surface, and tread it in as hard as possible. The weight of earth will compress the brush, and the surface will settle very much. We have tried placing boards at the sides, and upon the top of the brash, to prevent the caving in, but with no great success. Although our drains thus laid, have generally continued to discharge some water, yet they have, upon upland, been dangerous traps and pitfalls for our horses and cattle, and have cost much labor to fill up the holes, where they have fallen through by washing away below.
The basic method of construction is this: Dig a trench to the required depth and about 12 inches wide at the bottom. Place poles that are four or five inches in diameter at the base, leaving an open space in between. Then, fill it with brush of any size, with the coarsest pieces at the bottom, filling the drain to within a foot of the surface, and cover it with pine, hemlock, or spruce branches. On top of these, lay turf, cut as closely as possible. The brush should be laid with the butt-end facing upstream, as this causes less obstruction to the water. Fill it up with soil a foot above the surface and pack it down as hard as you can. The weight of the earth will compress the brush, and the surface will settle quite a bit. We’ve tried putting boards on the sides and top of the brush to prevent it from caving in, but it hasn’t worked very well. Although our drains have generally kept discharging some water, they have often become dangerous traps for our horses and cattle in the uplands, and it has taken a lot of work to fill the holes where they’ve fallen through because the earth washed away below.
In clay, brush drains might be more durable. In the English books, we have descriptions of drains filled with thorn cuttings from hedges and with gorse. When well laid in clay, they are said to last about 15 years. When the thorns decay, the clay will still retain its form, and leave a passage for the water.
In clay, brush drains might be more durable. In the English books, we have descriptions of drains filled with thorn cuttings from hedges and with gorse. When properly installed in clay, they are said to last around 15 years. When the thorns decompose, the clay will still keep its shape and maintain a pathway for the water.
A writer in the Cyclopedia sums up the matter as to this kind of drains, thus:
A writer in the Cyclopedia summarizes the issue regarding these types of drains like this:
"Although in some districts they are still employed, they can only be looked upon as a clumsy, and superficial plan of doing that which can be executed in a permanent and satisfactory manner, at a very small additional expense, now that draining-tiles are so cheap and plentiful."
"Although they are still used in some areas, they can only be seen as a clumsy and superficial way of accomplishing something that can be done in a more permanent and satisfactory way, with only a small additional cost, now that draining tiles are so affordable and widely available."
Draining-tiles are not yet either cheap or plentiful in[106] this country; but we have full faith that they will become so very soon. In the mean time it may be profitable for us to use such of the substitutes for them as may lie within our reach, selecting one or another according as material is convenient.
Draining tiles aren’t cheap or widely available in[106] this country yet; however, we believe they will be soon. In the meantime, it might be beneficial for us to use whatever substitutes we can find, choosing one based on the materials available.
PLUG-DRAINING
has never been, that we are aware, practiced in America. Our knowledge of it is limited to what we learn from English books. We, therefore, content ourselves with giving from Morton's Cyclopedia the following description and illustrations.
has never been, that we know of, practiced in America. Our understanding of it is limited to what we read in English books. So, we’re satisfied to provide the following description and illustrations from Morton's Cyclopedia.
"Plug-draining, like mole-draining, does not require the use of any foreign material—the channel for the water being wholly formed of clay, to which this kind of drain, like that last mentioned is alone suited.
Plug-draining, similar to mole-draining, doesn't need any outside materials—the channel for the water is entirely made of clay, which is the only type of drain that this method is suitable for.
"This method of draining requires a particular set of tools for its execution, consisting of, first, a common spade, by means of which the first spit is removed, and laid on one side; second, a smaller-sized spade, by means of which the second spit is taken out, and laid on the opposite side of the trench thus formed; third, a peculiar instrument called a bitting iron (Fig. 11), consisting of a narrow spade, three and a half feet in length, and one and a half inches wide at the mouth and sharpened like a chisel; the mouth, or blade, being half an inch in thickness in order to give the necessary strength to so slender an implement. From the mouth, a, on the right-hand side, a ring of steel, b, six inches long and two and a half broad, projects at right angles; and on the left, at fourteen inches from the mouth, a tread, c, three inches long, is fitted.
"This method of draining needs a specific set of tools to carry it out. First, you need a regular spade to remove the top layer of soil and set it aside. Second, a smaller spade is used to take out the next layer of soil, which you place on the opposite side of the trench that's formed. Third, there's a special tool called a bitting iron (Fig. 11), which is a narrow spade that is three and a half feet long and one and a half inches wide at the mouth, sharpened like a chisel. The blade is half an inch thick to provide the necessary strength for such a slender tool. From the mouth, a, on the right side, a six-inch long and two and a half inches wide steel ring, b, extends at a right angle; on the left side, fourteen inches from the mouth, there's a tread, c, that is three inches long."

Fig. 11.
Fig. 11.
"A number of blocks of wood, each one foot long, six inches high, and two inches thick at the bottom, and two and a half at the top, are next required. From four to six of these are joined together by pieces[107] of hoop-iron let into their sides by a saw-draught, a small space being left between their ends, so that when completed, the whole forms a somewhat flexible bar, as shown in the cut, to one end of which a stout chain is attached. These blocks are wetted, and placed with the narrow end undermost, in the bottom of the trench, which should be cut so as to fit them closely; the clay which has been dug out is then to be returned, by degrees, upon the blocks, and rammed down with a wooden rammer three inches wide. As soon as the portion of the trench above the blocks, or plugs, has been filled, they are drawn forward, by means of a lever thrust through a link of the chain, and into the bottom of the drain for a fulcrum, until they are all again exposed, except the last one. The further portion of the trench, above the blocks, is now filled in and rammed, and so on the operations proceed until the whole drain is finished."
You’ll need several wooden blocks, each one foot long, six inches high, and two inches thick at the bottom, tapering to two and a half inches at the top. Join four to six of these together using pieces[107] of hoop iron set into their sides with a saw, leaving a small gap between their ends to create a somewhat flexible bar, as shown in the illustration, with a sturdy chain attached to one end. Wet the blocks and place them with the narrow end facing down in the bottom of the trench, which should be cut to fit them snugly. Gradually return the clay that was dug out onto the blocks and compact it down with a wooden rammer that’s three inches wide. Once the section of the trench above the blocks is filled, pull them forward using a lever pushed through a link of the chain, using the bottom of the drain for leverage, until all but the last block are exposed. Fill in and compact the next part of the trench above the blocks, and continue this process until the entire drain is complete.

Fig. 12.—Plug Drainage.
Fig. 12.—Plug Drainage.
MOLE DRAINING.
We hear of an implement, in use in Illinois and other Western States, called the Gopher Plow, worked by a capstan, which drains wet land by merely drawing through it an iron shoe, at about two and a half feet in depth, without the use of any foreign substance.
We hear about a tool used in Illinois and other Western states called the Gopher Plow. It’s operated by a capstan and drains wet land by simply pulling an iron shoe through it at about two and a half feet deep, without needing any extra materials.
We hear reports of a mole plow, in use in the same State, known by the name of Marcus and Emerson's Patent Subsoiler, with which, an informant says, drains are made also in the manner above named. This machine[108] is worked by a windlass power, by a horse or yoke of oxen, and the price charged is twenty-eight cents a rod for the work. These machines are, from description, modifications of the English Mole Plow, an implement long ago known and used in Great Britain.
We hear reports of a mole plow being used in the same state, called Marcus and Emerson's Patent Subsoiler, which, according to a source, also creates drains in the same way mentioned above. This machine[108] is powered by a windlass, a horse, or a team of oxen, and the cost is twenty-eight cents per rod for the work. These machines are described as variations of the English Mole Plow, a tool that has been known and used in Great Britain for a long time.

Fig. 13.—Mole Plow.
Fig. 13.—Mole Plow.
The following description is from Morton's Cyclopedia:
The following description is from Morton's Cyclopedia:
"Mole-Drains are the simplest of all the forms of the covered drains. They are formed by means of a machine called the mole plow. This machine consists of a long wooden beam and stilts, somewhat in the form of the subsoil plow; but instead of the apparatus for breaking up the subsoil in the latter, a short cylindrical and pointed bar of iron is attached, horizontally, to the lower end of the broad coulter, which can be raised or lowered by means of a slot in the beam. The beam itself is sheathed with iron on the under side, and moves close to the ground; thus keeping the bar at the end of the coulter at one uniform depth. This machine is dragged through the soft clay, which is the only kind of land on which it can be used with propriety, by means of a chain and capstan, worked by horses, and produces a hollow channel very similar to a mole-run, from which it derives its name."
"Mole-Drains are the simplest type of covered drains. They are created using a machine called a mole plow. This machine has a long wooden beam and stilts, somewhat like a subsoil plow; but instead of the mechanism for breaking up the subsoil, it has a short, cylindrical, pointed iron bar attached horizontally to the lower end of the wide coulter, which can be raised or lowered using a slot in the beam. The beam itself is covered with iron on the underside and moves close to the ground, keeping the bar at the end of the coulter at a consistent depth. This machine is pulled through soft clay, the only type of land suitable for its use, with a chain and capstan operated by horses, creating a hollow channel that resembles a mole-run, which is how it gets its name."
A correspondent of the New York Tribune thus describes the operation and utility of a mole plow, which he saw on the farm of Major A. B. Dickinson, of Hornby, Steuben County, New York:
A reporter for the New York Tribune describes the function and usefulness of a mole plow that he observed on Major A. B. Dickinson's farm in Hornby, Steuben County, New York:
"I believe there is not a rod of tile laid on this farm, and not a dozen[109] rods of covered stone drain. But the major has a home-made, or, at least, home-devised, 'bull plow,' consisting of a sharp-pointed iron wedge, or roller, surmounted by a broad, sharp shank nearly four feet high, with a still sharper cutter in front, and with a beam and handles above all. With five yoke of oxen attached, this plow is put down through the soil and subsoil to an average depth of three feet—in the course which the superfluous water is expected and desired to take—and the field thus plowed through and through, at intervals of two rods, down to three feet, as the ground is more or less springy and saturated with water. The cut made by the shank closes after the plow and is soon obliterated, while that made by the roller, or wedge, at the bottom, becomes the channel of a stream of water whenever there is any excess of moisture above its level, which stream tends to clear itself and rather enlarge its channel. From ten to twenty acres a day are thus drained, and Major D. has such drains of fifteen to twenty years' standing, which still do good service. In rocky soils, this mode of draining is impracticable: in sandy tracts it would not endure; but here it does very well, and, even though it should hold good in the average but ten years, it would many times repay its cost."
"I believe there isn’t a single tile drain on this farm, and not even a dozen[109] stone drains. But the major has a homemade, or at least home-designed, 'bull plow,' which consists of a sharp-pointed iron wedge or roller, topped with a broad, sharp shank nearly four feet high, with an even sharper cutter in front, and with a beam and handles on top. With five yokes of oxen hitched up, this plow is pushed down through the soil and subsoil to an average depth of three feet, where the excess water is expected and wanted to flow. The field is plowed through at intervals of two rods, down to three feet, depending on how springy and waterlogged the ground is. The cut made by the shank closes up after the plow goes through and quickly disappears, while the cut made by the roller or wedge at the bottom becomes a channel for water when there’s too much moisture above its level, which helps it clear itself and widen its channel. Between ten to twenty acres a day are drained this way, and Major D. has had such drains in operation for fifteen to twenty years, which are still working well. In rocky soil, this method of draining doesn’t work; in sandy areas, it wouldn't last; but here it performs very well, and even if it only lasts an average of ten years, it would more than pay for itself."
Major Dickinson himself in a recent address, thus speaks of what he calls his
Major Dickinson himself in a recent speech talks about what he calls his
SHANGHAE PLOW.
"I will take the poorest acre of stubble ground, and if too wet for corn in the first place, I will thoroughly drain it with a Shanghae plow and four yoke of oxen in three hours.
"I will take the least valuable acre of stubbly land, and if it's too wet for corn at first, I will drain it completely with a Shanghai plow and four yoke of oxen in three hours."
"I will suppose the acre to be twenty rods long and eight rods wide. To thoroughly drain the worst of your clay subsoil, it may require a drain once in eight feet, and they can be made so cheaply that I can afford to make them at that distance. To do so, will require the team to travel sixteen times over the twenty rods lengthwise, or one mile in three hours; two men to drive, one to hold the plow, one to ride the beam, and one to carry the crow-bar, pick up any large stones thrown out by going to the right or left, and to help to carry around the plow, which is too heavy for the other two to do quickly.
"I’ll assume the acre is twenty rods long and eight rods wide. To properly drain the worst of your clay subsoil, you might need a drain every eight feet, and they can be built so affordably that I can manage that spacing. To accomplish this will require the team to cover the twenty rods lengthwise sixteen times, or one mile in three hours; two people to drive, one to hold the plow, one to ride the beam, and one to carry the crowbar and pick up any large stones that come out while shifting to the right or left, as well as help carry the plow, which is too heavy for the other two to handle quickly."
"The plow is quite simple in its construction, consisting of a round piece of iron three and a half or four inches in diameter, drawn down to a point, with a furrow cut in the top one and a half inches deep; a plate, eighteen inches wide and three feet long, with one end welded into the furrow of the round bar, while the other is fastened to the[110] beam. The coulter is six inches in width, and is fastened to the beam at one end, and at the other to the point of the round bar. The coulter and plate are each three-fourths of an inch thick, which is the entire width of the plow above the round iron at the bottom.
"The plow is pretty straightforward in its design, featuring a round piece of iron that’s about three and a half to four inches in diameter, tapered to a point, with a furrow cut in the top that’s one and a half inches deep. There’s a plate, eighteen inches wide and three feet long, with one end welded into the furrow of the round bar, while the other is attached to the[110] beam. The coulter is six inches wide, secured to the beam at one end and connected to the point of the round bar at the other. The coulter and plate are both three-fourths of an inch thick, which is the total width of the plow above the round iron at the bottom."
"It would require much more team to draw this plow on some soils than on yours. The strength of team depends entirely on the character of the subsoil. Cast-iron, with the exception of the coulter, for an easy soil would be equally good; and from eighteen to twenty-four inches is sufficiently deep to run the plow. I can as thoroughly drain an acre of ground in this way as any that can be found in Seneca County."
"It would take a lot more animals to pull this plow in some soils than in yours. The strength of the animals depends entirely on the type of subsoil. Cast iron, except for the coulter, would be just as good for an easy soil; and plowing to a depth of eighteen to twenty-four inches is sufficient. I can drain an acre of land this way just as well as anyone else in Seneca County."
From the best information we can gather, it would seem, that on certain soils with a clay subsoil, the mole plow, as a sort of pioneer implement, may be very useful. The above account certainly indicates that on the farm in question it is very cheap, rapid, and effectual in its operation.
From what we understand, it seems that on certain soils with a clay subsoil, the mole plow can be quite useful as a pioneering tool. The information provided clearly shows that on the specific farm, it is a cost-effective, quick, and efficient option for operation.
Stephens gives a minute description of the mole plow figured above, in his Book of the Farm. Its general structure and principle of operation may be easily understood by what has been already said, and any person desirous of constructing one may find in that work exact directions.
Stephens provides a detailed description of the mole plow shown above in his Book of the Farm. Its overall design and how it works can be easily grasped based on what has already been mentioned, and anyone wanting to build one can find precise instructions in that book.
WEDGE AND SHOULDER DRAINS.
These, like the last-mentioned kind of drains, are mere channels formed in the subsoil. They have, therefore, the same fault of want of durability, and are totally unfitted for land under the plow. In forming wedge-drains, the first spit, with the turf attached, is laid on one side, and the earth removed from the remainder of the trench is laid on the other. The last spade used is very narrow, and tapers rapidly, so as to form a narrow wedge-shaped cavity for the bottom of the trench. The turf first removed is then cut into a wedge, so much larger than the size of the lower part of the drain, that when rammed into it with the grassy side undermost, it leaves a vacant space in the bottom six or eight inches in depth, as in Fig. 14.
These, like the previously mentioned type of drains, are simply channels created in the subsoil. They share the same issue of lacking durability and are completely unsuitable for land that is plowed. When creating wedge-drains, the first layer of earth with the grass still attached is placed to one side, and the soil dug from the rest of the trench is put on the other side. The last spade used is quite narrow and tapers quickly to create a narrow wedge-shaped cavity at the bottom of the trench. The turf that was initially removed is then shaped into a wedge that is significantly larger than the lower part of the drain, so when it is packed in with the grass side down, it leaves an empty space at the bottom that is six to eight inches deep, as shown in Fig. 14.
The shoulder-drain does not differ very materially from[111] the wedge-drain. Instead of the whole trench forming a gradually tapering wedge, the upper portion of the shoulder-drain has the sides of the trench nearly perpendicular, and of considerable width, the last spit only being taken out with a narrow, tapering spade, by which means a shoulder is left on either side, from which it takes its name. After the trench has been finished, the first spit, having the grassy side undermost as in the former case, is placed in the trench, and pushed down till it rests upon the shoulders already mentioned; so that a narrow wedge-shaped channel is again left for the water, as shown in Fig. 15.
The shoulder-drain is quite similar to the wedge-drain. Instead of the entire trench forming a gradually tapering wedge, the upper part of the shoulder-drain has nearly vertical sides and is quite wide, with the last layer being removed using a narrow, tapering spade. This process creates a shoulder on each side, which is how it gets its name. Once the trench is complete, the first layer, which has the grassy side facing down like before, is placed in the trench and pushed down until it rests on the shoulders mentioned earlier. This leaves a narrow, wedge-shaped channel for the water, as shown in Fig. 15.

Fig. 14.
Wedge-Drain.
Fig. 14.
Wedge Drain.

Fig. 15.
Shoulder-Drain.
Fig. 15.
Shoulder Drain.
These drains may be formed in almost any kind of land which is not a loose gravel or sand. They are a very cheap kind of drain; for neither the cost of cutting nor filling in, much exceeds that of the ordinary tile drain, while the expense of tiles or other materials is altogether saved. Still, such drains cannot be recommended, for they are very liable to injury, and, even under the most favorable circumstances, can only last a very limited time.
These drains can be created in almost any type of land that's not loose gravel or sand. They are a very inexpensive type of drain; the costs for digging and refilling don't significantly surpass those of a regular tile drain, and you completely avoid the cost of tiles or other materials. However, such drains aren't really advisable because they're easily damaged, and even in the best conditions, they only last for a short period.
LARCH TUBES.
These have been used in Scotland, in mossy or swampy soils, it is said, with economy and good results. The tube[112] represented below presents a square of 4 inches outside, with a clear water-way of 2 inches. Any other durable wood will, of course, answer the same purpose. The tube is pierced with holes to admit the water. In wet meadows, these tubes laid deep would be durable and efficient, and far more reliable than brush or even stones, because they may be better protected from the admission of sand and the ruinous working of vermin. Their economy depends upon the price of the wood and the cost of tiles—which are far better if they can be reasonably obtained.
These have been used in Scotland, in damp or marshy soils, it is said, effectively and with good results. The tube[112] shown below has an outside square of 4 inches, with a clear waterway of 2 inches. Any other durable wood will, of course, serve the same purpose. The tube has holes to let in water. In wet meadows, these tubes buried deep would be long-lasting and effective, and much more reliable than brush or even stones, because they can be better protected from sand getting in and the damaging activity of pests. Their cost-effectiveness depends on the price of the wood and the expense of tiles—which are much better if they can be obtained at a reasonable price.

Fig. 16.—Larch Tube-Drain.
Fig. 16.—Larch Tube Drain.
Near Washington, D. C., we know of drainage tolerably well performed by the use of common fence-rails. A trench is opened about three inches wider at bottom than two rails. Two rails are then laid in the bottom, leaving a space of two or three inches between them. A third rail is then laid on for a cover, and the whole carefully covered with turf or straw, and then filled up with earth. Poles of any kind may be used instead of rails, if more convenient.
Near Washington, D.C., we know that drainage can be done quite well using regular fence rails. A trench is dug about three inches wider at the bottom than two rails. Two rails are then placed at the bottom, with a gap of two or three inches between them. A third rail is placed on top as a cover, and the whole thing is carefully covered with turf or straw, then filled in with soil. Any type of poles can be used instead of rails if that's more convenient.
In clay, these drains would be efficient and durable; in sand, they would be likely to be filled up and become useless. This is an extravagant waste of timber, except in the new districts where it is of no value.
In clay, these drains would work well and last a long time; in sand, they would probably get clogged and become ineffective. This is a significant waste of wood, except in new areas where it has no value.
Mr. J. F. Anderson, of Windham, Maine, has adopted a mode of draining with poles, which, in regions where wood is cheap and tiles are dear, may be adopted with advantage.
Mr. J. F. Anderson, from Windham, Maine, has taken up a method of draining using poles, which, in areas where wood is inexpensive and tiles are costly, can be beneficial.
Two poles, of from 3 to 6 inches diameter, are laid at the bottom of the ditch, with a water-way of half their diameter between them. Upon these, a third pole is laid,[113] thus forming a duct of the desired dimensions. The security of this drain will depend upon the care with which it is protected by a covering of turf and the like, to prevent the admission of earth, and its permanency will depend much upon its being placed low enough to be constantly wet, as such materials are short-lived when frequently wet and dried, and nearly imperishable if constantly wet. It is unnecessary to place brush or stones over such drains to make them draw, as it is called. The water will find admission fast enough to destroy the work, unless great care is used.
Two poles, between 3 to 6 inches in diameter, are laid at the bottom of the ditch, with a waterway that's half their diameter between them. A third pole is placed on top, [113] forming a duct of the desired size. The effectiveness of this drain relies on how well it is covered with turf and similar materials to prevent dirt from getting in. Its durability largely depends on being positioned low enough to stay consistently wet, as these materials don’t last long when they’re frequently wet and dry, but can last nearly forever if they remain wet. There's no need to put brush or stones over these drains to make them function, as the water will easily find its way in and could damage the work unless great care is taken.

Fig. 17.—Pole-Drain.
Fig. 17.—Pole Drain.
In Ireland, and in some parts of England and Scotland, peat-tiles are sometimes used in draining bogs. They are cheap and very durable in such localities, but, probably, will not be used in this country. They are formed somewhat like pipes, of two pieces of peat. Two halves are formed with a peculiar tool, with a half circle in each. When well dried, they are placed together, thus making a round opening.
In Ireland, and in some areas of England and Scotland, peat tiles are sometimes used to drain bogs. They are inexpensive and very durable in these regions, but they probably won’t be used here. They are shaped somewhat like pipes, made from two pieces of peat. Two halves are created using a special tool that forms a half circle in each. Once they are fully dried, they are put together, creating a round opening.

Fig. 18.—Tool for Peat-Tiles.
Tool for Peat Tiles.

Fig. 19.—Peat-Tiles.
Fig. 19.—Peat Tiles.
In draining, the object being merely to form a durable[114] opening in the soil, at suitable depth, which will receive and conduct away the water which filters through the soil, it is obvious that a thousand expedients may be resorted to, to suit the peculiar circumstances of persons. In general, the danger to be apprehended is from obstruction of the water-way. Nothing, except a tight tube of metal or wood, will be likely to prevent the admission of water.
In drainage, the goal is simply to create a long-lasting[114] opening in the soil at the right depth to collect and channel away the water that seeps through the soil. It's clear that many different methods can be used to fit the unique situations of individuals. Generally, the main risk is that the waterway could become blocked. Nothing but a sealed tube made of metal or wood is likely to keep water from entering.
Economy and durability are, perhaps, the main considerations. Tiles, at fair prices, combine these qualities better than anything else. Stones, however, are both cheap and durable, so far as the material is concerned; but the durability of the material, and the durability of the drains, are quite different matters.
Economy and durability are probably the main considerations. Tiles, at reasonable prices, combine these qualities better than anything else. Stones, on the other hand, are both inexpensive and durable in terms of the material; however, the durability of the material and the durability of the drains are two different things.
DRAINS OF STONES.
Providence has so liberally supplied the greater part of New England with stones, that it seems to most inexperienced persons to be a work of supererogation, almost, to manufacture tiles or any other draining material for our farms.
Providence has generously given most of New England plenty of stones, so it seems to many inexperienced people that it's almost unnecessary to make tiles or any other drainage materials for our farms.
We would by no means discourage the use of stones, where tiles cannot be used with greater economy. Stone drains are, doubtless, as efficient as any, so long as the water-way can be kept open. The material is often close at hand, lying on the field and to be removed as a nuisance, if not used in drainage. In such cases, true economy may dictate the use of them, even where tiles can be procured; though, we believe, tiles will be found generally cheaper, all things considered, where made in the neighborhood.
We definitely don’t discourage using stones when tiles can’t be used more cost-effectively. Stone drains are certainly as effective as any, as long as the water flow can be maintained. The material is often readily available, lying in the field and seen as a nuisance if it’s not used for drainage. In these situations, real cost-effectiveness might suggest using stones, even when tiles are available; however, we believe tiles are usually cheaper overall, especially when made locally.
In treating of the cost of drainage, we have undertaken to give fair estimates of the comparative cost of different materials.
In discussing the cost of drainage, we have aimed to provide accurate estimates of the relative costs of different materials.
Every farmer is capable of making estimates for himself,[115] and of testing those made by us, and so of determining what is true economy in his particular case.
Every farmer can make his own estimates,[115] and test the estimates we provide, allowing him to figure out what makes the most sense for his situation.
The various modes of constructing drains of stones, may be readily shown by simple illustrations:
The different ways to build stone drains can be easily shown with simple illustrations:

Fig. 20.
Fig. 20.

Fig. 21.
Fig. 21.

Fig. 22.
Fig. 22.

Fig. 23.
Fig. 23.
If stone-drains are decided upon, the mode of constructing them will depend upon the kind of stone at hand. In some localities, round pebble-stones are found scattered over the surface, or piled in heaps upon our farms; in others, flat, slaty stones abound, and in others, broken stones from quarries may be more convenient. Of these, probably,[116] the least reliable is the drain filled with pebble-stones, or broken stones of small size. They are peculiarly liable to be obstructed, because there is no regular water-way, and the flow of the water must, of course, be very slow, impeded as it is by friction at all points with the irregular surfaces.
If stone drains are chosen, how to build them will depend on the type of stone available. In some areas, you can find round pebbles scattered on the ground or piled up on farms; in others, there are flat, slaty stones, while in some places, broken stones from quarries might be easier to use. Of these options, the least reliable is probably the drain filled with pebbles or small broken stones. They are particularly prone to getting blocked because there isn’t a regular waterway, and the water flow will be very slow, hindered by friction along all the uneven surfaces.
Sand, and other obstructing substances, which find their way, more or less, into all drains, are deposited among the stones—the water having no force of current sufficient to carry them forward—and the drain is soon filled up at some point, and ruined.
Sand and other materials that block the flow can get into all drains, where they're left among the stones since the water doesn't have enough force to push them through. Eventually, the drain gets clogged at some point and stops working.
Miles of such drains have been laid on many New England farms, at shoal depths, of two or two and a half feet, and have in a few years failed. For a time, their effect, to those unaccustomed to under-drainage, seems almost miraculous. The wet field becomes dry, the wild grass gives place to clover and herds-grass, and the experiment is pronounced successful. After a few years, however, the wild grass re-appears, the water again stands on the surface, and it is ascertained, on examination, that the drain is in some place packed solid with earth, and is filled with stagnant water.
Miles of drains like this have been installed on many New England farms, at shallow depths of two to two and a half feet, and they often fail within a few years. At first, the results seem almost miraculous to those unfamiliar with drainage systems. The wet field becomes dry, wild grass is replaced by clover and other grasses, and the project is deemed successful. However, after a few years, wild grass returns, water stands on the surface again, and upon inspection, it’s found that the drain is clogged with soil and filled with stagnant water.
The fault is by no means wholly in the material. In clay or hard pan, such a drain may be made durable, with proper care, but it must be laid deep enough to be beyond the effect of the treading of cattle and of loaded teams, and the common action of frost. They can hardly be laid low enough to be beyond the reach of our great enemy, the mole, which follows relentlessly all our operations.
The issue isn't entirely with the materials. In clay or hard soil, a drain can be made durable with proper care, but it needs to be installed deep enough to avoid the impact of cattle walking over it and heavy loads, as well as the usual effects of frost. However, it’s tough to lay it deep enough to escape the attacks of our main enemy, the mole, which persistently follows all our efforts.
We recollect the remarks of Mr. Downing about the complaints in New England, of injury to fruit-trees by the gnawing of field-mice.
We remember what Mr. Downing said about the complaints in New England regarding damage to fruit trees from field mice gnawing on them.
He said he should as soon think of danger from injury by giraffes as field-mice, in his own neighborhood, though he had no doubt of their depredations elsewhere!
He said he would just as soon worry about being harmed by giraffes as field mice in his own neighborhood, even though he had no doubt about their damage in other places!
It may seem to many, that we lay too much stress on[117] this point, of danger from moles and mice. We know whereof we do testify in this matter. We verily believe that we never finished a drain of brush or stones, on our farm, ten rods long, that there was not a colony of these varmint in the one end of it, before we had finished the other. If these drains, however, are made three or four feet deep, and the solid earth rammed hard over the turf, which covers the stones, they will be comparatively safe.
It might seem to many that we put too much emphasis on[117] this issue of danger from moles and mice. We know what we’re talking about here. We truly believe that we’ve never completed a drain of brush or stones on our farm that was ten rods long without having a colony of these pests at one end before we finished the other. However, if these drains are made three or four feet deep, and the solid earth is packed tightly over the turf that covers the stones, they will be relatively secure.
The figures 24 and 25 below, represent a mode of laying stone drains, practiced in Ireland, which will be found probably more convenient and secure than any other method, for common small drains. A flat stone is set upright against one side of the ditch, which should be near the bottom, perpendicular. Another stone is set leaning against the first, with its foot resting against the opposite bank. If the soil be soft clay, a flat stone may be placed first on the bottom of the ditch, for the water to flow upon; but this will be found a great addition to the labor, unless flat stones of peculiarly uniform shape and thickness are at hand. A board laid at the bottom will be usually far cheaper, and less liable to cause obstructions.
The figures 24 and 25 below show a way to lay stone drains, commonly used in Ireland, which is likely more convenient and secure than any other method for typical small drains. A flat stone is positioned upright against one side of the ditch, near the bottom, standing vertically. Another stone is leaned against the first one, with its base resting against the opposite bank. If the soil is soft clay, a flat stone can be placed at the bottom of the ditch for water to flow over; however, this significantly increases the labor, unless you have flat stones that are uniformly shaped and thick. A board laid at the bottom is usually much cheaper and less likely to cause blockages.

Figs. 24, 25.—Stone Drains.
Figs. 24, 25.—Stone Drains.
Drawings, representing a filling of small stones above the duct, have been copied from one work to another for generations, and it seems never to have occurred, even to modern writers, that the small stones might be omitted. Any one, who knows anything of the present system of draining with tiles, must perceive at once that, if we have the open triangular duct or the square culvert, the water cannot be kept from finding it, by any filling over it with such earth as is usually found in ditching. Formerly, when tiles were used, the ditch was filled above the tiles, to the height of a foot or more, with broken stones; but this practice has been everywhere abandoned as expensive and useless.
Drawings showing a layer of small stones above the duct have been copied from one source to another for generations, and it seems that even modern writers have never considered that the small stones could be left out. Anyone who understands the current method of draining with tiles knows that, whether we have the open triangular duct or the square culvert, water will inevitably find its way into it, regardless of any soil placed over it like what is commonly found in ditches. In the past, when tiles were used, the ditch was filled above the tiles with broken stones to a height of a foot or more, but this practice has been widely abandoned as costly and pointless.
An opening of any form, equal to a circle of two or three inches diameter, will be sufficient in most cases, though the necessary size of the duct must, of course, depend on the quantity of water which may be expected to flow in it at the time of the greatest flood.
An opening of any shape that's about two or three inches in diameter will usually be enough, but the required size of the duct should depend on how much water is expected to flow during the biggest flood.
Whatever the form of the stone drain, care should be taken to make the joints as close as possible, and turf, shavings, straw, tan, or some other material, should be carefully placed over the joints, to prevent the washing in of sand, which is the worst enemy of all drains.
Regardless of the type of stone drain, it's important to ensure that the joints are as tight as possible. Turf, shavings, straw, tan, or some other material should be carefully placed over the joints to prevent sand from washing in, as sand is the biggest threat to all drains.
It is not deemed necessary to remark particularly upon the mode of laying large drains for water-courses, with abutments and covering stones, forming a square duct, because it is the mode universally known and practiced. For small drains, in thorough-draining lands, it may, however, be remarked, that this is, perhaps, the most expensive of all modes, because a much greater width of excavation is necessary in order to place in position the two[119] side stones and leave the requisite space between them. That mode of drainage which requires the least excavation and the least carriage of materials, and consequently the least filling up and levelling, is usually the cheapest.
It’s not really necessary to specifically discuss how to lay large drains for water-courses with abutments and covering stones that create a square duct, since this method is widely known and used. However, for small drains in well-drained areas, it’s worth mentioning that this method can be the most expensive because it requires a much wider excavation to fit the two[119] side stones and leave enough space between them. The drainage method that involves the least excavation and transportation of materials, and therefore the least filling and leveling, is usually the most cost-effective.
Our conclusion as to stone drains is, that, at present, they may be, in many cases, found useful and economical; and even where tiles are to be procured at present prices stones may well be used, where materials are at hand, for the largest drains.
Our conclusion about stone drains is that, for now, they can often be useful and cost-effective; and even when tiles are available at current prices, stones can still be used for the largest drains where materials are accessible.
CHAPTER VI[120]
DRAINAGE WITH TILES.
What are Drain-Tiles?—Forms of Tiles.—Pipes.—Horse-shoe Tiles.—Sole-Tiles—Form of Water-Passage.—Collars and their Use.—Size of Pipes.—Velocity.—Friction.—Discharge of Water through Pipes.—Tables of Capacity.—How Water enters Tiles.—Deep Drains run soonest and longest.—Pressure of Water on Pipes.—Durability of Tile Drains.—Drain-Bricks 100 years old.
What are Drain Tiles?—Types of Tiles.—Pipes.—Horseshoe Tiles.—Sole Tiles—Shape of Water Passage.—Collars and Their Use.—Pipe Sizes.—Speed.—Friction.—Water Discharge through Pipes.—Capacity Tables.—How Water Enters Tiles.—Deep Drains Operate Quickly and for Longer.—Water Pressure on Pipes.—Longevity of Tile Drains.—Drain Bricks 100 Years Old.
WHAT ARE DRAIN-TILES?
This would be an absurd question to place at the head of a division in a work intended for the English public, for tiles are as common in England as bricks, and their forms and uses as familiar to all. But in America, though tiles are used to a considerable extent in some localities, probably not one farmer in one hundred in the whole country ever saw one.
This would be a ridiculous question to start a section in a work meant for the English audience, as tiles are as common in England as bricks, and their shapes and uses are familiar to everyone. But in America, although tiles are used quite a lot in certain areas, probably not one farmer in a hundred throughout the entire country has ever seen one.
The author has recently received letters of inquiry about the use and cost of tiles, from which it is manifest that the writers have in their mind as tiles, the square bricks with which our grandfathers used to lay their hearths.
The author has recently received letters asking about the use and cost of tiles, which shows that the writers are thinking of the square bricks that our grandfathers used to build their hearths.
In Johnstone's Report to the Board of Agriculture on Elkington's System of Draining, published in England in 1797, the only kind of tiles or clay conduits described or alluded to by him, are what he calls "draining-bricks," of which he gives drawings, which we transfer to our pages precisely as found in the American edition. It will be[121] seen to be as clumsy a contrivance as could well be devised.
In Johnstone's Report to the Board of Agriculture on Elkington's System of Draining, published in England in 1797, the only types of tiles or clay pipes mentioned or referenced by him are what he refers to as "draining-bricks." He includes drawings of these, which we present in our pages exactly as they appear in the American edition. It will be[121] clear that this is as awkward a design as could possibly exist.

Fig. 26.—Draining-Bricks.
Fig. 26.—Draining Bricks.
So lately as 1856, tiles were brought from Albany, N. Y., to Exeter, N. H., nearly 300 miles, by railway, at a cost, including freight, of $25 a thousand for two-inch pipes, and it is believed that no tiles were ever made in New Hampshire till the year 1857. These facts will soon become curiosities in agricultural literature, and so are worth preserving. They furnish excuse, too, for what may appear to learned agriculturists an unnecessary particularity in what might seem the well-known facts relative to tile-drainage.
So as recently as 1856, tiles were transported from Albany, N.Y., to Exeter, N.H., nearly 300 miles, by train, at a cost of $25 per thousand for two-inch pipes, including freight. It's believed that no tiles were made in New Hampshire until 1857. These details will soon be interesting anecdotes in agricultural literature, and they are worth keeping. They also provide justification for what might seem like unnecessary specifics to knowledgeable farmers regarding the established facts about tile drainage.
Drain-tiles are made of clay of almost any quality that will make bricks, moulded by a machine into tubes, or into half-tube or horse-shoe forms, usually fourteen inches long before drying, and burnt in a furnace or kiln to be about as hard as what are called hard-burnt bricks. They are usually moulded about half an inch in thickness, varying with the size and form of the tile. The sizes vary from one inch to six inches, and sometimes larger, in the diameter of the bore. The forms are also very various; and as this is one of the most essential matters,[122] as affecting the efficiency, the cost, and the durability of tile-drainage, it will be well to give it critical attention.
Drain tiles are made from clay of almost any quality suitable for brick-making, shaped by a machine into tubes, half-tubes, or horseshoe shapes, typically around fourteen inches long before drying, and fired in a furnace or kiln to achieve a hardness similar to that of hard-burnt bricks. They are usually molded to about half an inch thick, though this can vary with the size and shape of the tile. The diameters of the bore range from one inch to six inches, and sometimes even larger. The shapes also vary widely, and since this is one of the most critical aspects affecting the efficiency, cost, and durability of tile drainage, it deserves careful consideration.[122]
THE FORMS OF TILES.
The simplest, cheapest, and best form of drain-tile is the cylinder, or merely a tube, round outside and with a round bore.
The simplest, cheapest, and best type of drain tile is the cylinder, or just a tube, round on the outside and with a round opening.

Figs. 27, 28, 29.—Round Pipes.
Figs. 27, 28, 29.—Round Pipes.
Tiles of this form, and all others which are tubular, are called pipes, in distinction from those with open bottoms, like those of horse-shoe form.
Tiles of this shape, and all others that are tubular, are called pipes, in contrast to those with open bottoms, like those that are horse-shoe shaped.
About forty years ago, as Mr. Gisborne informs us, small pipes for land-drainage were used, concurrently, by persons residing in the counties of Lincoln, Oxford, and Kent, who had, probably, no knowledge of each other's operations. Most of those pipes were made with eyelet-holes, to admit the water. Pipes for thorough-draining excited no general attention till they were exhibited by John Read at the show at Derby, in the year 1843. A medal was awarded to the exhibitor. Mr. Parkes was one of the judges, and brought the pipes to the special notice of the council. From this time, inventions and improvements were rapid, and soon, collars were introduced, and the use of improved machines to mould the pipes;[123] and drainage, under the fostering influence of the Royal Agricultural Society, became a subject of general attention throughout the kingdom. The round pipe, or the pipe, as it seems, par excellence, to be termed by English drainers, though one of the latest, if not the last form of tiles introduced in England, has become altogether the most popular among scientific men, and is generally used in all works conducted under the charge of the Land Drainage Companies. This ought to settle the question for us, when we consider that the immense sum of twenty millions of dollars of public funds has been expended by them, in addition to vast amounts of private funds, and that the highest practical talent of the nation is engaged in the work.
About forty years ago, as Mr. Gisborne tells us, small pipes for land drainage were used at the same time by people living in Lincoln, Oxford, and Kent, who likely had no idea what each other was doing. Most of those pipes had holes to let in the water. Pipes for thorough drainage didn’t really attract general attention until John Read showcased them at the Derby show in 1843. He won a medal for his exhibit. Mr. Parkes was one of the judges and highlighted the pipes to the council. From that point on, innovations and improvements came quickly, and soon collars were introduced along with better machines to shape the pipes; [123] and drainage, with the support of the Royal Agricultural Society, became a topic of widespread interest across the country. The round pipe, or the pipe, as it seems to be called by English drainers, even though it’s one of the latest, if not the last, types of tiles introduced in England, has become the most popular among experts and is commonly used in all projects managed by the Land Drainage Companies. This should settle the question for us, considering that an incredible twenty million dollars of public funds has been spent by them, plus huge amounts of private funds, and that the nation's top practical talent is involved in the work.
After giving some idea of the various forms of tiles in use, it is, however, proposed to examine the question upon its merits, so that each may judge for himself which is best.
After providing some insight into the different types of tiles being used, it's important to evaluate the issue on its own terms, allowing everyone to determine for themselves which option is the best.
The earliest form of tiles introduced for the purpose of thorough-drainage, was the horse-shoe tile, so called from its shape. The horse-shoe tile has been sometimes used without any sole to form the bottom of the drain, thus leaving the water to run on the ground. There can hardly be a question of the false economy of this mode, for the hardest and most impervious soil softens under the constant action of running water, and then the edges of the tiles must sink, or the bottom of the drain rise, and thus destroy the work.
The earliest type of tiles used for effective drainage was the horse-shoe tile, named for its shape. Sometimes, the horse-shoe tile has been used without a base to create the bottom of the drain, allowing water to flow directly onto the ground. There’s no doubt about the poor economy of this approach, as even the toughest and most water-resistant soil softens under the continuous flow of water, causing the edges of the tiles to sink or the bottom of the drain to rise, which ultimately ruins the installation.
Various devices have been tried to save the expense of soles, such as providing the edges of the tiles with flanges or using pieces of soles on which to rest the ends of the tiles. They all leave the bottom of the drain unprotected against the wearing action of the water.
Various devices have been tested to cut costs on soles, like adding flanges to the edges of the tiles or using pieces of soles to support the ends of the tiles. However, they all leave the bottom of the drain vulnerable to wear from the water.
Horse-shoe tiles, or "tops and bottoms" as they are called in some counties, are still much used in England;[124] and in personal conversation with farmers there, the writer found a strong opinion expressed in their favor. The advantages claimed for the "tops and bottoms" are, that they lie firmly in place, and that they admit the water more freely than others.
Horseshoe tiles, or "tops and bottoms" as they're called in some areas, are still widely used in England;[124] and in discussions with farmers there, the writer found a strong preference for them. The benefits claimed for the "tops and bottoms" are that they stay securely in place and that they allow water to flow through more easily than other types.
The objections to them are, that they are more expensive than round pipes, and are not so strong, and are not so easily laid, and that they do not discharge water so well as tiles with a round bore. In laying them, they should be made to rest partly upon two adjoining soles, or to break bond, as it is called. The soles are made separate from the tiles, and are merely flat pieces, of sufficient width to support firmly both edges of the tiles. The soles are usually an inch wider than the tiles.
The objections to them are that they cost more than round pipes, aren't as strong, are harder to install, and don't drain water as effectively as tiles with a round opening. When laying them, they should rest partly on two adjacent soles, or be arranged to break bond, as it's referred to. The soles are separate from the tiles and are just flat pieces that are wide enough to securely support both edges of the tiles. The soles are typically an inch wider than the tiles.

Fig. 30—Horse-shoe Tiles and Soles.
Fig. 30—Horse-shoe Tiles and Soles.
The above figure represents the horse-shoe tiles and soles properly placed.
The above figure shows the horse-shoe tiles and soles arranged correctly.
As this form of tile has been generally used by the most successful drainers in New York, it may be well to cite the high authority of Mr. Gisborne for the objections which have been suggested. It should be recollected in this connection, that the drainage in this country has been what in England would be called shallow, and that it is too recent to have borne the test of time.
As this type of tile has been widely used by the most successful drainage experts in New York, it's worth mentioning the strong opinions of Mr. Gisborne regarding the concerns that have been raised. It's important to note that the drainage methods in this country have been what would be considered shallow in England, and they are still too new to have stood the test of time.
Mr. Gisborne says:
Mr. Gisborne says:
"We shall shock and surprise many of our readers, when we state confidently that, in average soils, and still more in those which are inclined to be tender, horse-shoe tiles form the weakest and most failing conduit which has ever been used for a deep drain. It is so, however; and a little thought, even if we had no experience, will tell us that it must be so.
"We're going to shock and surprise many of our readers when we confidently say that, in average soils, and even more in those that tend to be soft, horse-shoe tiles are the weakest and least reliable option ever used for deep drainage. This is the case, and even without experience, just a little thought will show us that it has to be true."
"A horse-shoe tile, which may be a tolerably secure conduit in a drain of 2 feet, in one of 4 feet becomes an almost certain failure. As[125] to the longitudinal fracture, not only is the tile subject to be broken by one of those slips which are so troublesome in deep draining, and to which the lightly-filled material, even when the drain is completed, offers an imperfect resistance, but the constant pressure together of the sides, even when it does not produce a fracture of the soil, catches hold of the feet of the tile, and breaks it through the crown. When the Regent's Park was first drained, large conduits were in fashion, and they were made circular by placing one horse-shoe tile upon another. It would be difficult to invent a weaker conduit. On re-drainage, innumerable instances were found in which the upper tile was broken through the crown and had dropped into the lower."
A horse-shoe tile, which can be a reasonably secure connection in a 2-foot drain, becomes a highly likely failure in a 4-foot drain. As[125] for the longitudinal fracture, the tile is prone to breaking from those slips that are so bothersome in deep drainage, to which the loosely-packed material, even after the drain is finished, offers inadequate resistance. Additionally, the constant pressure from the sides, even if it doesn’t cause a fracture in the soil, grips the feet of the tile and breaks it at the crown. When Regent's Park was first drained, large conduits were the norm, and they were made circular by stacking one horse-shoe tile on top of another. It would be hard to come up with a weaker connection. During re-drainage, countless examples were found where the upper tile had broken at the crown and fallen into the lower one.
Another form of tiles, called sole-tiles, or sole-pipes, is much used in America, more indeed than any other, except perhaps the horse-shoe tile; probably, because the first manufacturers fancied them the best, and offered no others in the market.
Another type of tiles, called sole-tiles or sole-pipes, is very popular in America, even more so than any others, except maybe the horse-shoe tile; likely because the early manufacturers thought they were the best and didn't provide any alternatives in the market.
In this form, the sole is solid with the tile. The bottom is flat, but the bore is round, or oval, or egg-shaped, with the small end of the orifice downward.
In this form, the sole is solid with the tile. The bottom is flat, but the hole is round, oval, or egg-shaped, with the smaller end of the opening facing down.

Fig. 31—Sole-Tile.
Fig. 31—Sole-Tile.
The sole-pipe has considerable advantages theoretically. The opening or bore is of the right shape, the bottom lies fair and firm in place, and the drain, indeed, is perfect, if carefully and properly laid.
The sole-pipe has significant theoretical advantages. The opening or bore is the right shape, the bottom is securely and properly positioned, and the drainage is excellent if installed carefully and correctly.
The objections to the sole-pipes are, that they are somewhat more expensive than round pipes, and that they require great care in placing them, so as to make the passage even from one pipe to another.
The objections to the sole-pipes are that they are a bit more expensive than round pipes and that they require careful installation to ensure a smooth transition from one pipe to another.
A slight depression of one side of a pipe of this kind, especially if the bore be oval or egg-shaped, throws the water passage out of line. In laying them, the author has taken the precaution to place under each joint a thin piece of wood, such as our honest shoe manufacturers use for[126] stiffening in shoes, to keep the bottoms of the pipes even, at least until the ground has settled compactly, and as much longer as they may escape "decay's effacing finger."
A slight dip on one side of a pipe like this, especially if the opening is oval or egg-shaped, misaligns the water flow. When installing them, the author has made sure to put a thin piece of wood under each joint, similar to what our trustworthy shoemakers use for[126] stiffening in shoes, to keep the bottoms of the pipes even, at least until the ground settles properly, and for as long as they can avoid "decay's effacing finger."
Collars for tiles are used wherever a sudden descent occurs in the course of a drain, or where there is a loose sand or a boggy place, and by many persons they are used in all drains through sandy or gravelly land.
Collars for tiles are used wherever there's a sudden drop in a drain, or where there's loose sand or a muddy area, and many people use them in all drains that run through sandy or gravelly soil.

Fig. 32.—Pipes and Collar.
Fig. 32.—Pipes and Collar.
The above figure represents pipe-tiles fitted with collars. Collars are merely short sections of pipes of such size as to fit upon the smaller ones loosely, covering the joint, and holding the ends in place, so that they cannot slip past each other. In very bad places, small pipes may be entirely sheathed in larger ones; and this is advisable in steep descents or flowing sands.
The figure above shows pipe tiles with collars. Collars are just short pieces of pipe that fit loosely over the smaller ones, covering the joint and keeping the ends in place so they don't slip past each other. In really troublesome areas, smaller pipes can be completely covered by larger ones, which is a good idea in steep slopes or loose sands.
A great advantage in round pipes is, that there is no wrong-side-up to them, and they are, therefore, more readily placed in position than tiles of any other form.
A big advantage of round pipes is that there’s no wrong side up, so they can be positioned more easily than pipes of any other shape.
Again: all tiles are more or less warped in drying and burning; and, where it is desired to make perfect work, round pipes may be turned so as to make better joints and a straighter run for the water—which is very important.
Again: all tiles are somewhat warped during drying and firing; and, when aiming for perfect work, round pipes can be shaped to create better joints and a straighter flow for the water—which is really important.
If collars are used, there is still less difficulty in adjusting the pipes so as to make the lines straight, and far less danger of obstruction by sand or roots. Indeed, it is believed that no drain can be made more perfect than with round pipes and collars.
If collars are used, it's much easier to adjust the pipes to keep the lines straight, and there's much less risk of getting blocked by sand or roots. In fact, it's thought that no drain can be made more effective than with round pipes and collars.
As it is believed that few collars have ever yet been used in this country, and the best drainers in England are not agreed as to the necessity of using them, we give the opinions of two or three distinguished gentlemen, in their own language. Mr. Gisborne says:
As it's thought that hardly any collars have been used in this country, and the top drainers in England don't all agree on the need for them, we're sharing the views of a few notable gentlemen, in their own words. Mr. Gisborne says:
"We were astounded to find, at the conclusion of Mr. Parkes' Newcastle[127] Lecture, this sentence: 'It may be advisable for me to say, that in clays, and other clean-cutting and firm-bottomed soils, I do not find the collars to be indispensably necessary, although I always prefer their use.' This is a barefaced treachery to pipes, an abandonment of the strongest point in their case—the assured continuity of the conduit. Every one may see how very small a disturbance at their point of junction would dissociate two pipes of one inch diameter. One finds a soft place in the bottom of the drain and dips his nose into it one inch deep, and cocks up his other end. By this simple operation, the continuity of the conduit is twice broken. An inch of lateral motion produces the same effect. Pipes of a larger diameter than two inches are generally laid without collars. This is a practice on which we do not look with much complacency; it is the compromise between cost and security, to which the affairs of men are so often compelled. No doubt, a conduit from three to six inches in diameter is much less subject to a breach in its continuity than one which is smaller; but, when no collars are used, the pipes should be laid with extreme care, and the bed which is prepared for them at the bottom of the drain should be worked to their size and shape with great accuracy.
"We were shocked to find, at the end of Mr. Parkes' Newcastle[127] Lecture, this statement: 'It may be advisable for me to say that in clay and other well-defined and stable soils, I do not consider collars to be absolutely necessary, although I always prefer to use them.' This is a blatant betrayal of pipes, a rejection of their strongest point—the guaranteed continuity of the conduit. It's clear how even the smallest disturbance at their junction could separate two one-inch pipes. You might find a soft spot in the bottom of the drain, push down an inch, and lift the other end. This simple action breaks the continuity of the conduit twice. Just an inch of lateral movement has the same result. Pipes larger than two inches in diameter are typically laid without collars. We don’t feel good about this practice; it’s a compromise between cost and security that people often have to make. No doubt, a conduit three to six inches in diameter is much less likely to suffer a break in its continuity than a smaller one; however, when collars aren’t used, the pipes must be laid with extreme precision, and the base prepared for them at the bottom of the drain should be shaped to their size and contour with great care."
"To one advantage which is derived from the use of collars we have not yet adverted—the increased facility with which free water existing in the soil can find entrance into the conduit.
"One benefit of using collars that we haven't mentioned yet is how much easier it is for free water in the soil to enter the conduit."
"The collar for a one and a half inch pipe has a circumference of nine inches. The whole space between the collar and the pipe, on each side of the collar, is open, and affords no resistance to the entrance of water: while, at the same time, the superincumbent arch of the collar protects the junction of two pipes from the intrusion of particles of soil. We confess to some original misgivings, that a pipe resting only on an inch at each end, and lying hollow, might prove weak, and liable to fracture by weight pressing on it from above; but the fear was illusory. Small particles of soil trickle down the sides of every drain, and the first flow of water will deposit them in the vacant space between the two collars. The bottom, if at all soft, will also swell up into any vacancy. Practically, if you re-open a drain well laid with pipes and collars, you will find them reposing in a beautiful nidus, which, when they are carefully removed, looks exactly as if it had been moulded for them."
"The collar for a one and a half inch pipe has a circumference of nine inches. The space between the collar and the pipe on each side is open and doesn’t resist water flowing in. At the same time, the arch of the collar protects the connection of the two pipes from soil particles getting in. We initially had some concerns that a pipe resting only on an inch at each end and lying hollow might be weak and prone to breaking under weight from above, but that concern was unfounded. Small soil particles trickle down along every drain, and the first flow of water will settle them in the empty space between the two collars. If the bottom is soft, it will also rise into any gaps. In practice, if you reopen a well-installed drain with pipes and collars, you’ll find them nestled in a nice little bed that, when carefully taken out, looks like it was molded just for them."
As to the danger of breaking the pipes, which might well be apprehended, we found by actual experiment, at the New York Central Park, that a one-inch Albany pipe[128] resting on collars upon a floor, with a bearing at each end of but one inch, would support the weight of a man weighing 160 pounds, standing on one foot on the middle of the pipe.
Regarding the risk of damaging the pipes, which is certainly a concern, we discovered through direct testing at Central Park in New York that a one-inch Albany pipe[128] resting on supports on the ground, with only one inch of support at each end, can hold the weight of a person weighing 160 pounds while standing on one foot in the middle of the pipe.
Mr. Parkes sums up his opinion upon the subject of collars, in these words:
Mr. Parkes sums up his opinion on the topic of collars in these words:
"It may be advisable for me to say, that in clays, and other clean-cutting and firm-bottomed soils, I do not find collars to be at all necessary; but that they are essential in all sandy, loose, and soft strata."
"It might be a good idea for me to mention that in clay and other well-defined and stable soils, I don't think collars are needed at all; however, they are essential in all sandy, loose, and soft layers."
In draining in the neighborhood of trees, collars are also supposed to be of great use in preventing the intrusion of roots into the pipes, although it may be impossible, even in this way, to exclude the roots of water-loving trees.
In areas with trees, collars are also believed to be very useful in stopping roots from invading the pipes, although it might still be impossible to completely keep out the roots of trees that thrive on water.
From the most careful inquiry that the writer was able to make, as to the practice in England, he is satisfied that collars are not generally used there in the drainage of clays, but that the pipes are laid in openings shaped for them at the bottom of the drains, with a tool which forms a groove into which the pipes fall readily into line, and very little seems to be said of collars in the published estimates of the cost of drainage.
From the most thorough investigation that the writer was able to conduct regarding the practice in England, he is convinced that collars are not commonly used in the drainage of clays. Instead, the pipes are placed in slots made for them at the bottom of the drains, using a tool that creates a groove where the pipes easily line up. Additionally, very little is mentioned about collars in the published estimates of drainage costs.
On this subject, we have the opinion of Mr. Denton, thus expressed:
On this topic, we have Mr. Denton's opinion, which is expressed as follows:
"The use of collars is by no means general, although those who have used them speak highly of their advantages. Except in sandy soils, and in those that are subject to sudden alteration of character, in some of the deposits of red sand-stones, and in the clayey subsoils of the Bagshot sand district, for instance, collars are not found to be essential to good drainage. In the north of England they are used but seldom, and, in my opinion, much less than they ought to be; but this opinion, it is right to state, is opposed, in numerous instances of successful drainage, by men of extensive practice; and as every cause of increased outlay is to be avoided, the value of collars, as general appliances, remains an open question. In all the more porous subsoils in which collars have not been used, the more successful drainers increase the size of the pipes in the minor drains to a minimum size of two inches bore."
"The use of collars isn’t common, but those who have used them really praise their benefits. Outside of sandy soils and areas that can quickly change, like some deposits of red sandstones and the clayey subsoils in the Bagshot sand district, collars aren’t seen as necessary for good drainage. In northern England, they’re rarely used, and I believe they should be used more; however, this view is countered by many experienced professionals who have successfully drained land without them. Since we want to avoid any unnecessary costs, the overall usefulness of collars remains open to debate. In the more porous subsoils where collars haven’t been used, the most successful drainers tend to increase the diameter of the pipes in the minor drains to at least two inches."
The form of the bore, or water passage, in tiles, is a point of more importance than at first appears. At one of our colleges, certain plank sewers, in the ordinary square form, were often obstructed by the sediment from the dirty water. "Turn them cornerwise," suggested the professor of Natural Philosophy. It was done, and ever after they kept in order. The pressure of water depends on its height, or head. Everybody knows that six feet of water carries a mill-wheel better than one foot. The same principle operates on a small scale. An inch head of water presses harder than a half inch. The velocity of water, again, depends much on its height. Whether there be much or little water passing through a drain, it has manifestly a greater power to make its way, to drive before it sand or other obstructions, when it is heaped up in a round passage, than when wandering over the flat surface of a tile sole. Any one who has observed the discharge of water from flat-bottomed and round tiles, will be satisfied that the quantity of water which is sufficient to run in a rapid stream of a half or quarter inch diameter from a round tile, will lazily creep along the flat bottom of a sole tile, with hardly force sufficient to turn aside a grain of sand, or to bring back to light an enterprising cricket that may have entered on an exploration. On the whole, solid tiles, with flat-bottomed passages, may be set down among the inventions of the adversary. They have not the claims even of the horse-shoe form to respect, because they do not admit water better than round pipes, and are not united by a sole on which the ends of the adjoining tiles rest. They combine the faults of all other forms, with the peculiar virtues of none.
The shape of the bore, or water passage, in tiles, is more important than it initially seems. At one of our colleges, some wooden sewers, in the standard square shape, were frequently blocked by sediment from dirty water. "Turn them diagonally," suggested the professor of Natural Philosophy. It was done, and from that point on, they remained clear. The pressure of water relies on its height, or head. Everyone knows that six feet of water drives a mill wheel better than one foot. The same idea works on a smaller scale. An inch of water presses more strongly than half an inch. The velocity of water also largely depends on its height. Whether a lot or a little water is flowing through a drain, it clearly has more power to push through, carrying sand or other blockages, when it's piled up in a round passage than when it's spreading over the flat surface of a flat tile. Anyone who has observed the flow of water from flat-bottomed and round tiles will see that the volume of water that can stream quickly from a round tile with a half or quarter inch diameter will barely creep along the flat bottom of a flat tile, with hardly enough force to move a grain of sand or uncover a brave cricket that may have gone in for a look around. Overall, solid tiles with flat-bottomed passages should be considered a design flaw. They don’t even have the advantages of the horseshoe shape because they don’t allow water to flow better than round pipes and are not connected by a sole on which the ends of the adjoining tiles rest. They combine the issues of all other shapes, without the unique advantages of any.

Fig. 33—Flat-bottomed Pipe-Tile.
Fig. 33—Flat-bottomed Pipe Tile.
From an English report on the drainage of towns, the following, which illustrates this point, is taken:
From an English report on the drainage of towns, the following, which illustrates this point, is taken:
"It was found that a large proportion of sewers were constructed with flat bottoms, which, when there was a small discharge, spread the water, increased the friction, retarded the flow, and accumulated deposit. It was ascertained, that by the substitution of circular sewers of the same width, with the same inclination and the same run of water, the amount of deposit was reduced more than one-half."
"It was discovered that many sewers had flat bottoms, which caused the water to spread out when there was a small flow, increasing friction, slowing down the flow, and causing buildup. It was determined that by replacing them with circular sewers of the same width, slope, and water flow, the amount of buildup was reduced by more than half."
THE SIZE OF TILES.
Is a matter of much importance, whether we regard the efficiency and durability of our work, or economy in completing it. The cost of tiles, and the freight of them, increase rapidly with their size, and it is, therefore, well to use the smallest that will effect the object in view. Tiles should be large enough, as a first proposition, to carry off, in a reasonable time, all the surplus water that may fall upon the land. Here, the English rules will not be safe for us; for, although England has many more rainy days than we have, yet we have, in general, a greater fall of rain—more inches of water from the clouds in the year. Instead of their eternal drizzle, we have thunder showers in Summer, and in Spring and Autumn north-east storms, when the windows of heaven are opened, and a deluge, except in duration, bursts upon us. Then, at the North, the Winter snows cover the fields until April, when they suddenly dissolve, often under heavy showers of rain, and planting time is at once upon us. It is desirable that all the snow and rain-water should pass through the soil into the drains, instead of overflowing the surface, so as to save the elements of fertility with which such water abounds, and also to prevent the washing of the soil. We require, then, a greater capacity of drainage, larger tiles, than do the English, for our drains must do a greater work than theirs, and in less time.[131]
It's very important to consider the efficiency and durability of our work, as well as the cost of completing it. The price of tiles and the shipping costs increase quickly with their size, so it's best to use the smallest tiles that still achieve the desired result. Tiles should be large enough, to begin with, to effectively handle all the excess water that may fall on the land in a reasonable time. The English guidelines aren’t necessarily applicable to us; even though England has more rainy days, we typically experience a higher total rainfall—more inches of water from the clouds each year. Instead of constant drizzles, we get thunderstorms in the summer and northeast storms in spring and autumn, when rain pours down in a deluge, but not for as long. In the north, winter snows cover the fields until April, when they suddenly melt, often accompanied by heavy rain, signaling the start of planting season. It's important that all the snow and rainwater flows through the soil into the drains rather than overflowing the surface, in order to preserve the nutrients in that water and prevent soil erosion. Therefore, we need a greater drainage capacity and larger tiles than the English do, as our drains need to handle a bigger volume of water in a shorter amount of time.[131]
There are several other general considerations that should be noticed, before we attempt to define the particular size for any location. Several small drains are usually discharged into one main drain. This main should have sufficient capacity to conduct all the water that may be expected to enter it, and no more. If the small drains overflow it, the main will be liable to be burst, or the land about it filled with water, gushing from it at the joints; especially, if the small drains come down a hill side, so as to give a great pressure, or head of water. On the other hand, if the main be larger than is necessary, there is the useless expense of larger tiles than were required. The capacity of pipes to convey water, depends, other things being equal, upon their size; but here the word size has a meaning which should be kept clearly in mind.
There are several other general points to consider before we try to define the specific size for any location. Several small drains usually merge into one main drain. This main drain should have enough capacity to handle all the water that might flow into it, and nothing more. If the small drains overflow it, the main drain could burst or cause water to spill out around the joints, especially if the small drains are coming down a hillside, which creates a lot of pressure. On the other hand, if the main drain is larger than necessary, you end up with the unnecessary cost of bigger pipes than needed. The ability of pipes to carry water depends, all else being equal, on their size; but it's important to note that "size" has a specific meaning that should be kept in mind.
The capacity of round water-pipes is in proportion to the squares of their diameters.
The capacity of round water pipes is proportional to the square of their diameters.
A one-inch pipe carries one inch (circular, not square) of water, but a two-inch pipe carries not two inches only, but twice two, or four inches of water; a three-inch pipe carries three times three, or nine inches; and a four-inch pipe, sixteen inches. Thus we see, that under the same conditions as to fall, directness, smoothness, and the like, a four-inch pipe carries just four times as much water as a two-inch pipe. In fact, it will carry more than this proportion, because friction, which is an important element in all such calculations, is greater in proportion to the smaller size of the pipe.
A one-inch pipe carries one inch (circular, not square) of water, but a two-inch pipe carries not just two inches, but double that, or four inches of water; a three-inch pipe carries three times three, or nine inches; and a four-inch pipe, sixteen inches. So we see that under the same conditions regarding slope, straightness, smoothness, and so on, a four-inch pipe carries exactly four times as much water as a two-inch pipe. In fact, it will carry even more than this ratio suggests because friction, which is a crucial factor in all these calculations, is proportionally greater in the smaller pipe size.
Velocity is another essential element to be noticed in determining the amount of water which may be discharged through a pipe of given diameter. Velocity, again, depends on several conditions. Water runs faster down a steep hill than down a gentle declivity. This is due to the weight of the water, or, in other words, to gravitation, and operates whether the water be at large on[132] the ground, or confined in a pipe, and it operates alike whether the water in a pipe fill its bore or not.
Speed is another crucial factor to consider when figuring out how much water can flow through a pipe of a specific diameter. Velocity depends on several conditions. Water flows faster down a steep hill than down a gentle slope. This is because of the weight of the water, or, in other words, gravity, and it affects the water whether it's flowing freely on[132] the ground or contained in a pipe, and it has the same effect whether the water in a pipe fills it completely or not.
But, again, the velocity of water in a pipe depends on the pressure, or head of water, behind it, and there is, perhaps, no definite limit to the quantity of water that may be forced through a given orifice. More water, for instance, is often forced through the pipe of a fire-engine in full play, in ten minutes, than would run through a pipe of the same diameter, lying nearly level in the ground, in ten hours.
But again, the speed of water in a pipe depends on the pressure or head of water behind it, and there might not be a definite limit to how much water can be forced through a specific opening. For example, more water is often pushed through the hose of a fire engine in full operation in ten minutes than would flow through a pipe of the same diameter, lying almost level in the ground, in ten hours.
In ordinary aqueducts, for supplying water, and not for drainage, it is desirable to have a high pressure upon the pipes to ensure a rapid flow; but in drainage, a careful distinction must be made between velocity induced by gravitation, and velocity induced by pressure. If induced by the former merely, the pipe through which the water is swiftly running, if not quite full, may still receive water at every joint, while, if the velocity be induced by pressure, the pipe must be already full. It can then receive no more, and must lose water at the joints, and wet the land through which it passes, instead of draining it.
In regular aqueducts designed for supplying water, rather than for drainage, it's important to have high pressure in the pipes to ensure a quick flow. However, when it comes to drainage, it’s essential to distinguish between velocity caused by gravity and velocity caused by pressure. If the flow is only driven by gravity, the pipe through which water is moving quickly, even if it’s not completely full, can still take in water at each joint. But if the flow is driven by pressure, the pipe has to be full already. In this case, it can't take in any more water and will end up losing water at the joints, soaking the land it passes through instead of draining it.
So that although we should find that the mains might carry a vast quantity of water admitted by minor drains from high elevations, yet we should bear in mind, that drains when full can perform no ordinary office of drainage. If there is more than the pressure of four feet head of water behind; the pipes, if they passed through a pond of water, at four feet deep, must lose and not receive water at the joints.
So even though we might discover that the main pipes can transport a large amount of water coming in from smaller drains at higher elevations, we should remember that when drains are full, they can't function normally. If there's more than four feet of water pressure behind them, the pipes must lose water at the joints instead of taking any in, even if they pass through a pond that's four feet deep.
The capacity of a pipe to convey water depends, then, not only on its size, but on its inclination or fall—a pipe running down a considerable descent having much greater capacity than one of the same size lying nearly level. This fact should be borne in mind even in laying single drains; for it is obvious that if the drain lie along a sandy[133] plain, for instance, extending down a springy hill-side, and then, as is usually the case, along a lower plain again, to its outlet at some stream, it may collect as much water as will fill it before it reaches the lower level. Its stream rushes swiftly down the descent, and when it reaches the plain, there is not sufficient fall to carry it away by its natural gravitation. It will still rush onward to its outlet, urged by the pressure from behind; but, with such pressure, it will, as we have seen, instead of draining the land, suffuse it with water.
The ability of a pipe to carry water depends not just on its size, but also on its slope— a pipe running down a significant incline has a much higher capacity than one of the same size that is nearly flat. This point should be considered even when installing single drains; for example, if a drain runs along a sandy[133] plain, goes down a springy hill, and then, as is often the case, levels out again across a lower plain to reach a stream, it can gather enough water to fill it before it gets to the lower level. The flow moves quickly down the slope, but when it hits the flat area, there's not enough incline to let it flow away naturally. It will continue to surge towards its outlet, pushed by the pressure from behind; however, with that pressure, instead of draining the land, it will flood it with water.
FRICTION,
as has already been suggested, is an element that much interferes with exact calculations as to the relative capacity of water-pipes of various dimensions, and this depends upon several circumstances, such as smoothness, and exactness of form, and directness. The smoother, the more regular in form, and the straighter the drain, the more water will it convey. Thus, in some recent English experiments,
as has already been suggested, is an element that greatly disrupts accurate calculations regarding the relative capacity of water pipes of different sizes, and this depends on several factors, such as smoothness, precision of shape, and straightness. The smoother, more uniform in shape, and straighter the drain, the more water it will carry. Thus, in some recent English experiments,
"it was found that, with pipes of the same diameter, exactitude of form was of more importance than smoothness of surface; that glass pipes, which had a wavy surface, discharged less water, at the same inclinations, than Staffordshire stone-ware clay pipes, which were of perfectly exact construction. By passing pipes of the same clay—the common red clay—under a second pressure, obtained by a machine at an extra expense of about eighteen pence per thousand, whilst the pipe was half dry, very superior exactitude of form was obtained, and by means of this exactitude, and with nearly the same diameters, an increased discharge of water of one-fourth was effected within the same time."
"It was discovered that, with pipes of the same diameter, the accuracy of the shape was more important than the smoothness of the surface; that glass pipes, which had a wavy surface, discharged less water at the same angles than Staffordshire stoneware clay pipes, which were perfectly constructed. By applying a second pressure to pipes made of the same clay—the common red clay—with a machine that cost about eighteen pence per thousand while the pipe was half dry, significantly better accuracy of shape was achieved. With this accuracy and nearly the same diameters, the water discharge increased by one-fourth in the same amount of time."
So all sudden turns or angles increase friction and retard velocity, and thus lessen the capacity of the drain—a topic which may be more properly considered under the head of the junction of drains.
So all sudden turns or angles increase friction and slow down velocity, which reduces the capacity of the drain—a topic that might be better discussed under the heading of the junction of drains.
"On a large scale, it was found that when equal quantities of water were running direct, at a rate of 90 seconds, with a turn at right-angles,[134] the discharge was only effected in 140 seconds; whilst, with a turn or junction with a gentle curve, the discharge was effected in 100 seconds."
"On a larger scale, it was found that when equal amounts of water flowed directly at a rate of 90 seconds, making a right-angle turn, [134] the discharge took 140 seconds; whereas, with a turn or junction featuring a gentle curve, the discharge took 100 seconds."
We are indebted to Messrs. Shedd & Edson for the following valuable tables showing the capacity of water-pipes, with the accompanying suggestions:
We owe a debt of gratitude to Messrs. Shedd & Edson for the following helpful tables displaying the capacity of water pipes, along with their suggestions:
"DISCHARGE OF WATER THROUGH PIPES.
"The following tables of discharge are founded on the experiments made by Mr. Smeaton, and have been compared with those by Henry Law, and with the rules of Weisbach and D'Aubuisson. The conditions under which such experiments are made may be so essentially different in each case, that few experiments give results coincident with each other, or with the deductions of theory: and in applying these tables to practice, it is quite likely that the discharge of a pipe of a certain area, at a certain inclination, may be quite unlike the discharge found to be due to those conditions by this table, and that difference may be owing partly to greater or less roughness on the inside of the pipe, unequal flow of water through the joints into the pipe, crookedness of the pipes, want of accuracy in their being placed, so that the fall may not be uniform throughout, or the ends of the pipes may be shoved a little to one side, so that the continuity of the channel is partially broken; and, indeed, from various other causes, all of which may occur in any practical case, unless great care is taken to avoid it, and some of which may occur in almost any case.
"The following discharge tables are based on experiments conducted by Mr. Smeaton and have been compared with those by Henry Law, as well as the guidelines from Weisbach and D'Aubuisson. The conditions under which these experiments are performed can vary significantly from one case to another, resulting in few experiments yielding results that align with each other or with theoretical deductions. When using these tables in practice, it's quite possible that the discharge from a pipe of a specific area and angle may differ from the discharge indicated by this table. This discrepancy could be due to factors such as varying roughness inside the pipe, uneven water flow through the joints, pipe misalignment, non-uniform drops throughout, or the ends of the pipes being slightly misaligned, which can partially disrupt the channel's continuity, along with many other factors that may arise in practical situations unless careful attention is given to avoid them. Some of these issues can occur in nearly any scenario."
"We have endeavored to so construct the tables that, in the ordinary practice of draining, the discharge given may approximate to the truth for a well laid drain, subject even to considerable friction. The experiments of Mr. Smeaton, which we have adopted as the basis of these tables, gave a less quantity discharged, under certain conditions, than given under similar conditions by other tables. This result is probably due to a greater amount of friction in the pipes used by Smeaton. The curves of friction resemble, very nearly, parabolic curves, but are not quite so sharp near the origin.
"We have worked to design the tables in such a way that, during regular drainage practices, the output may closely reflect the actual performance of a well-constructed drain, even when faced with significant friction. The experiments conducted by Mr. Smeaton, which we have used as the foundation for these tables, showed a lower discharge under specific conditions compared to similar conditions in other tables. This difference is likely due to higher friction in the pipes that Smeaton tested. The friction curves look very much like parabolic curves, but they’re not as steep near the beginning."
"We propose, during the coming season, to institute some careful experiments, to ascertain the friction due to our own drain-pipe. Water can get into the drain-pipe very freely at the joints, as may be seen by a simple calculation. It is impossible to place the ends so closely together, in laying, as to make a tight joint on account of roughness in the clay, twisting in burning, &c.; and the opening thus made will usually average about one-tenth of an inch on the whole circumference,[135] which is, on the inside of a two-inch pipe, six inches—making six-tenths of a square inch opening for the entrance of water at each joint.
"We plan to conduct some careful experiments this coming season to determine the friction caused by our drainage pipe. Water can easily enter the drain pipe at the joints, as shown by a simple calculation. It’s impossible to position the ends closely enough during installation to create a tight joint due to the roughness of the clay, twisting during firing, etc. The gap created typically averages about one-tenth of an inch around the entire circumference,[135] which, on the inside of a two-inch pipe, translates to six inches—resulting in a six-tenths of a square inch opening for water to enter at each joint."
"In a lateral drain 200 feet long, the pipes being thirteen inches long, there will be 184 joints, each joint having an opening of six-tenth square inch area; in 184 joints there is an aggregate area of 110 square inches; the area of the opening at the end of a two-inch pipe is about three inches; 110 square inches inlet to three inches outlet; thirty-seven times as much water can flow in as can flow out. There is, then, no need for the water to go through the pores of the pipe; and the fact is, we think, quite fortunate, for the passage of water through the pores would in no case be sufficient to benefit the land to much extent. We tried an experiment, by stopping one end of an ordinary drain-pipe and filling it with water. At the end of sixty-five hours, water still stood in the pipe three-fourths of an inch deep. About half the water first put into the pipe had run out at the end of twenty-four hours. If the pipe was stopped at both ends and plunged four feet deep in water, it would undoubtedly fill in a short time; but such a test is an unfair one, for no drain could be doing service, over which water could collect to the depth of four feet."
"In a lateral drain that's 200 feet long, with the pipes being thirteen inches long, there will be 184 joints. Each joint has an opening that's six-tenths of a square inch. In total, the 184 joints have an aggregate area of 110 square inches. The opening at the end of a two-inch pipe is about three square inches. This means that 37 times more water can flow in than can flow out. Therefore, there’s no need for the water to go through the pores of the pipe; and we believe this is quite fortunate, as water passing through the pores wouldn’t benefit the land very much. We conducted an experiment by stopping one end of a regular drain pipe and filling it with water. After sixty-five hours, the water still stood in the pipe three-quarters of an inch deep. About half the initial water had drained out at the end of twenty-four hours. If the pipe was stopped at both ends and submerged four feet deep in water, it would definitely fill up quickly; but this test is unfair because no drain would function under conditions where water could collect to a depth of four feet."
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
ft. in. | ft. in. | ||||
0.3 | 0.71 | 5630.87 | 5.3 | 3.75 | 29704.51 |
0.6 | 1.04 | 8248.03 | 5.6 | 3.84 | 30454.28 |
0.9 | 1.29 | 10230.73 | 5.9 | 3.93 | 31168.06 |
1.0 | 1.52 | 12054.81 | 6.0 | 4.00 | 31723.21 |
1.3 | 1.74 | 13799.59 | 6.3 | 4.10 | 32516.36 |
1.6 | 1.91 | 15147.83 | 6.6 | 4.18 | 33150.76 |
1.9 | 2.10 | 16654.68 | 6.9 | 4.25 | 33705.91 |
2.0 | 2.26 | 17923.61 | 7.0 | 4.33 | 34340.38 |
2.3 | 2.41 | 19113.23 | 7.3 | 4.41 | 34974.85 |
2.6 | 2.56 | 20302.86 | 7.6 | 4.49 | 35609.30 |
2.9 | 2.69 | 21333.86 | 7.9 | 4.56 | 36154.45 |
3.0 | 2.83 | 22444.17 | 8.0 | 4.65 | 36878.23 |
3.3 | 2.94 | 23150.71 | 8.3 | 4.71 | 37354.08 |
3.6 | 3.06 | 24268.25 | 8.6 | 4.79 | 37988.55 |
3.9 | 3.16 | 25061.34 | 8.9 | 4.85 | 38464.40 |
4.0 | 3.28 | 26013.03 | 9.0 | 4.91 | 38940.25 |
4.3 | 3.38 | 26806.11 | 9.3 | 4.98 | 39495.39 |
4.6 | 3.46 | 27440.58 | 9.6 | 5.04 | 39971.24 |
4.9 | 3.56 | 28233.66 | 9.9 | 5.10 | 40447.10 |
5.0 | 3.65 | 28947.43 | 10.0 | 5.16 | 40922.93 |
[136]2-inch drain-pipe. | 3-inch drain-pipe. | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
ft. in. | ft. in. | ||||
0.3 | 0.79 | 10575.4 | 0.3 | 0.90 | 24687.2 |
0.6 | 1.16 | 15528.4 | 0.6 | 1.33 | 36482.2 |
0.9 | 1.50 | 20079.9 | 0.9 | 1.66 | 45534.2 |
1.0 | 1.71 | 22891.1 | 1.0 | 1.94 | 53214.7 |
1.3 | 1.94 | 25970.0 | 1.3 | 2.19 | 60072.2 |
1.6 | 2.16 | 28915.1 | 1.6 | 2.43 | 66655.5 |
1.9 | 2.35 | 31458.5 | 1.9 | 2.63 | 72141.5 |
2.0 | 2.53 | 33868.1 | 2.0 | 2.83 | 77627.6 |
2.3 | 2.69 | 36009.9 | 2.3 | 3.00 | 82290.7 |
2.6 | 2.83 | 37884.0 | 2.6 | 3.16 | 86679.6 |
2.9 | 2.97 | 39758.2 | 2.9 | 3.31 | 90794.1 |
3.0 | 3.11 | 41632.4 | 3.0 | 3.47 | 95182.9 |
3.3 | 3.24 | 43372.6 | 3.3 | 3.60 | 98748.9 |
3.6 | 3.36 | 44979.0 | 3.6 | 3.74 | 102589.1 |
3.9 | 3.48 | 46585.4 | 3.9 | 3.87 | 106155.0 |
4.0 | 3.59 | 48057.9 | 4.0 | 3.99 | 109446.7 |
4.3 | 3.70 | 49530.5 | 4.3 | 4.11 | 112738.3 |
4.6 | 3.80 | 50869.1 | 4.6 | 4.23 | 116029.9 |
4.9 | 3.91 | 52341.6 | 4.9 | 4.34 | 119047.3 |
5.0 | 4.02 | 53814.1 | 5.0 | 4.46 | 122338.9 |
5.3 | 4.11 | 55018.9 | 5.3 | 4.57 | 125356.2 |
5.6 | 4.22 | 56491.5 | 5.6 | 4.68 | 128373.5 |
5.9 | 4.31 | 57696.3 | 5.9 | 4.78 | 131116.6 |
6.0 | 4.40 | 58901.1 | 6.0 | 4.89 | 134133.9 |
6.3 | 4.49 | 60105.9 | 6.3 | 4.98 | 136602.6 |
6.6 | 4.58 | 61309.7 | 6.6 | 5.08 | 139345.6 |
6.9 | 4.66 | 62381.6 | 6.9 | 5.18 | 142088.7 |
7.0 | 4.74 | 63452.5 | 7.0 | 5.27 | 144557.4 |
7.3 | 4.83 | 64667.3 | 7.3 | 5.37 | 147306.4 |
7.6 | 4.91 | 65728.3 | 7.6 | 5.46 | 150069.1 |
7.9 | 4.99 | 66799.2 | 7.9 | 5.55 | 152237.8 |
8.0 | 5.07 | 67870.1 | 8.0 | 5.64 | 154706.6 |
8.3 | 5.15 | 68941.0 | 8.3 | 5.73 | 157175.3 |
8.6 | 5.23 | 70011.9 | 8.6 | 5.82 | 159644.0 |
8.9 | 5.31 | 71082.8 | 8.9 | 5.91 | 162112.7 |
9.0 | 5.38 | 72019.9 | 9.0 | 5.99 | 164313.2 |
9.3 | 5.46 | 73090.9 | 9.3 | 6.07 | 166501.6 |
9.6 | 5.53 | 74027.9 | 9.6 | 6.16 | 168970.3 |
9.9 | 5.60 | 74965.0 | 9.9 | 6.24 | 171164.7 |
10.0 | 5.67 | 75902.0 | 10.0 | 6.32 | 173359.1 |
[137]4-inch drain-pipe. | 5-inch drain-pipe. | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
ft. in. | ft. in. | ||||
0.3 | 1.08 | 43697.6 | 0.3 | 1.13 | 99584.2 |
0.6 | 1.50 | 60691.2 | 0.6 | 1.57 | 138362.4 |
0.9 | 1.83 | 74043.2 | 0.9 | 1.90 | 167442.6 |
1.0 | 2.13 | 86181.4 | 1.0 | 2.20 | 193881.0 |
1.3 | 2.38 | 96296.6 | 1.3 | 2.45 | 215912.9 |
1.6 | 2.61 | 105602.6 | 1.6 | 2.70 | 237944.9 |
1.9 | 2.81 | 113694.8 | 1.9 | 2.90 | 255569.5 |
2.0 | 3.00 | 121382.3 | 2.0 | 3.10 | 273195.9 |
2.3 | 3.19 | 129089.9 | 2.3 | 3.29 | 289940.1 |
2.6 | 3.36 | 135948.2 | 2.6 | 3.46 | 304921.9 |
2.9 | 3.53 | 142826.5 | 2.9 | 3.64 | 320784.9 |
3.0 | 3.68 | 148895.7 | 3.0 | 3.80 | 334885.4 |
3.3 | 3.82 | 154560.2 | 3.3 | 3.96 | 348974.8 |
3.6 | 3.96 | 160224.7 | 3.6 | 4.11 | 362204.9 |
3.9 | 4.10 | 165889.2 | 3.9 | 4.26 | 375424.1 |
4.0 | 4.24 | 171553.7 | 4.0 | 4.40 | 387762.1 |
4.3 | 4.37 | 176813.6 | 4.3 | 4.52 | 398337.5 |
4.6 | 4.50 | 182073.5 | 4.6 | 4.66 | 410675.3 |
4.9 | 4.62 | 186928.3 | 4.9 | 4.78 | 421250.6 |
5.0 | 4.75 | 192188.7 | 5.0 | 4.90 | 430825.0 |
5.3 | 4.86 | 196639.4 | 5.3 | 5.02 | 442401.3 |
5.6 | 4.97 | 201090.1 | 5.6 | 5.14 | 452976.6 |
5.9 | 5.09 | 205945.3 | 5.9 | 5.25 | 462670.6 |
6.0 | 5.20 | 210396.0 | 6.0 | 5.37 | 473246.0 |
6.3 | 5.30 | 214442.1 | 6.3 | 5.49 | 483820.4 |
6.6 | 5.41 | 218892.8 | 6.6 | 5.60 | 493514.6 |
6.9 | 5.51 | 222938.8 | 6.9 | 5.70 | 502327.4 |
7.0 | 5.61 | 226984.9 | 7.0 | 5.80 | 511140.2 |
7.3 | 5.71 | 231031.0 | 7.3 | 5.90 | 520052.0 |
7.6 | 5.81 | 235077.1 | 7.6 | 6.00 | 528766.5 |
7.9 | 5.91 | 239123.2 | 7.9 | 6.10 | 537578.7 |
8.0 | 6.01 | 243169.2 | 8.0 | 6.20 | 546391.5 |
8.3 | 6.10 | 246810.7 | 8.3 | 6.30 | 555204.5 |
8.6 | 6.19 | 250452.2 | 8.6 | 6.40 | 564017.0 |
8.9 | 6.28 | 255493.7 | 8.9 | 6.49 | 571948.0 |
9.0 | 6.37 | 257735.2 | 9.0 | 6.58 | 579880.0 |
9.3 | 6.45 | 260971.9 | 9.3 | 6.66 | 586930.2 |
9.6 | 6.54 | 264603.1 | 9.6 | 6.75 | 594861.4 |
9.9 | 6.63 | 268254.9 | 9.9 | 6.84 | 602793.2 |
10.0 | 6.71 | 271491.8 | 10.0 | 6.93 | 610723.8 |
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
Autumn in 100 feet. |
Speed per second in feet. |
Release in gallons in 24 hours. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
ft. in. | ft. in. | ||||
0.3 | 1.23 | 277487.7 | 5.3 | 5.35 | 1206959.3 |
0.6 | 1.65 | 372239.7 | 5.6 | 5.47 | 1234031.3 |
0.9 | 2.01 | 453455.7 | 5.9 | 5.59 | 1261103.3 |
1.0 | 2.33 | 525647.7 | 6.0 | 5.71 | 1288175.3 |
1.3 | 2.60 | 586559.7 | 6.3 | 5.83 | 1315247.3 |
1.6 | 2.85 | 642959.6 | 6.6 | 5.95 | 1343838.9 |
1.9 | 3.08 | 694847.6 | 6.9 | 6.07 | 1369391.3 |
2.0 | 3.30 | 744479.7 | 7.0 | 6.17 | 1391951.2 |
2.3 | 3.50 | 789599.6 | 7.3 | 6.27 | 1414531.1 |
2.6 | 3.70 | 844719.7 | 7.6 | 6.39 | 1441583.2 |
2.9 | 3.89 | 877583.5 | 7.9 | 6.50 | 1466399.3 |
3.0 | 4.05 | 913679.5 | 8.0 | 6.60 | 1488959.2 |
3.3 | 4.21 | 949775.6 | 8.3 | 6.70 | 1511539.1 |
3.6 | 4.37 | 971658.7 | 8.6 | 6.80 | 1534099.0 |
3.9 | 4.53 | 920447.4 | 8.9 | 6.90 | 1556658.9 |
4.0 | 4.67 | 1055551.4 | 9.0 | 7.00 | 1579199.3 |
4.3 | 4.81 | 1086135.4 | 9.3 | 7.10 | 1601759.2 |
4.6 | 4.95 | 1116718.7 | 9.6 | 7.20 | 1624319.1 |
4.9 | 5.08 | 1146047.4 | 9.9 | 7.29 | 1644622.1 |
5.0 | 5.22 | 1177631.3 | 10.0 | 7.38 | 1664927.1 |
HOW WATER ENTERS THE TILES.
How water enters the tiles, is a question which all persons unaccustomed to the operation of tile-draining usually ask at the outset. In brief, it may be answered, that it enters both at the joints and through the pores of the burnt clay, but mostly at the joints.
How water gets into the tiles is a question that most people unfamiliar with tile drainage typically ask at the beginning. In short, it can be answered that it enters both at the joints and through the pores of the fired clay, but mostly at the joints.
Mr. Parkes expresses the opinion, based upon careful observation, that five hundred times as much water enters at the crevices as through the pores of the tiles! If this be so, we may as well, for all practical purposes, regard the water as all entering at the joints. In several experiments which we have attempted, we have found the quantity of water that enters through the pores to be quite too small to be of much practical account.
Mr. Parkes believes, based on careful observation, that five hundred times more water comes in at the cracks than through the holes in the tiles! If that's the case, we might as well consider all the water entering at the joints for practical purposes. In several experiments we’ve conducted, we found that the amount of water coming in through the pores is way too small to matter much.
Tiles differ so much in porosity, that it is difficult to[139] make experiments that can be satisfactory—soft-burnt tiles being, like pale bricks, quite pervious, and hard-burnt tiles being nearly or quite impervious. The amount of pressure upon the clay in moulding also affects the density and porosity of tiles.
Tiles vary greatly in how porous they are, making it hard to[139] conduct satisfactory experiments—soft-burnt tiles, similar to light bricks, are quite absorbent, while hard-burnt tiles are nearly or completely non-absorbent. The pressure applied to the clay during molding also impacts the density and porosity of the tiles.
Water should enter at the bottom of the tiles, and not at the top. It is a well-known fact in draining, that the deepest drain flows first and longest. A familiar illustration will make this point evident. If a cask or deep box be filled with sand, with one hole near the bottom and another half way to the top, these holes will represent the tiles in a drain. If water be poured into the sand, it will pass downward to the bottom of the vessel, and will not flow out of either hole till the sand be saturated up to the lower hole, and then it will flow out there. If, now, water be poured in faster than the lower hole can discharge it, the vessel will be filled higher, till it will run out at both holes. It is manifest, however, that it will first cease to flow from the upper orifice. There is in the soil a line of water, called the "water-line," or "water-table;" and this, in drained land, is at about the level of the bottom of the tiles. As the rain falls it descends, as in the vessel; and as the water rises, it enters the tiles at the bottom, and never at the top, unless there is more than can pass out of the soil by the lower openings (the crevices and pores) into the tiles. It is well always to interrupt the direct descent of water by percolation from the surface to the top of the tiles, because, in passing so short a distance in the soil, the water is not sufficiently filtered, especially in soil so recently disturbed, but is likely to carry with it not only valuable elements of fertility, but also particles of sand, which may obstruct the drain. This is prevented by placing above the tiles (after they are covered a few inches with gravel, sand, or other porous soil) compact clay, if convenient. If not, a furrow each side of the[140] drain, or a heaping-up of the soil over the drain, when finished, will turn aside the surface-water, and prevent such injury.
Water should enter at the bottom of the tiles, not the top. It's a well-known fact in drainage that the deepest drain flows first and stays open the longest. A familiar example illustrates this. If you fill a barrel or deep box with sand, with one hole near the bottom and another halfway up, these holes represent the tiles in a drain. When you pour water into the sand, it will travel downward to the bottom of the container and won’t flow out of either hole until the sand is saturated up to the lower hole, at which point water will start to flow out there. If water is poured in faster than the lower hole can drain it, the container will fill up, and eventually, it will flow out of both holes. However, it’s clear that it will stop flowing from the upper hole first. In the soil, there's a line of water known as the "water-line" or "water-table," which, in drained land, is around the level of the bottom of the tiles. As rain falls, it moves downwards like in the vessel; as the water rises, it enters the tiles from the bottom and never from the top, unless there's too much water for the lower openings (the crevices and pores) to handle. It's always good to prevent the direct descent of water from the surface to the top of the tiles because, in such a short distance through the soil, the water isn’t filtered well enough, especially in soil that has just been disturbed, and can carry away valuable nutrients as well as particles of sand that might clog the drain. This risk can be mitigated by placing compact clay above the tiles (after covering them a few inches with gravel, sand, or other porous material) if possible. If not, creating a furrow on each side of the[140] drain or piling up the soil over the drain once it’s finished will redirect surface water and help prevent damage.
In the estimates as to the area of the openings between pipes, it should be considered that the spaces between the pipes are not, in fact, clean openings of one-tenth of an inch, but are partially closed by earthy particles, and that water enters them by no means as rapidly as it would enter the clean pipes before they are covered. Although the rain-fall in England is much less in quantity and much more regular than in this country, yet it is believed that the use of two-inch pipes will be found abundantly sufficient for the admission and conveyance of any quantity of water that it may be necessary to carry off by drainage in common soils. In extraordinary cases, as where the land drained is a swamp, or reservoir for water which falls on the hills around, larger pipes must be used.
In estimating the size of the openings between pipes, it should be noted that the gaps between the pipes aren't completely open at a tenth of an inch but are partly blocked by soil particles. As a result, water doesn't flow into them as quickly as it would into clean pipes before they're buried. Even though rainfall in England is less in volume and more consistent than in this country, using two-inch pipes is expected to be more than adequate for handling any amount of water that needs to be drained from typical soils. In exceptional circumstances, such as when draining swamps or reservoirs collecting water from surrounding hills, larger pipes will be necessary.
In many places in England "tops and bottoms," or horse-shoe tiles, are still preferred by farmers, upon the idea that they admit the water more readily; but their use is continued only by those who have never made trial of pipes. No scientific drainer uses any but pipes in England, and the million of acres well drained with them, is pretty good evidence of their sufficiency. In this country, horse-shoe tiles have been much used in Western New York, and have been found to answer a good purpose; and so it may be said of the sole-pipes. Indeed, it is believed that no instance is to be found on record in America of the failure of tile drains, from the inability of the water to gain admission at the joints.
In many areas of England, farmers still prefer "tops and bottoms," or horse-shoe tiles, believing they let water through more easily. However, this method is only used by those who haven't tried pipes. No professional drainer in England uses anything other than pipes, and the millions of acres that have been effectively drained with them is strong evidence of their effectiveness. In the U.S., horse-shoe tiles have been widely used in Western New York and have proven to serve their purpose well, as have sole-pipes. In fact, it is believed there is no record of tile drains failing in America due to water being unable to enter at the joints.
It may be interesting in this connection to state, that water is 815 times heavier than air. Here is a drain at four feet depth in the ground, filled only with air, and open at the end so that the air can go out. Above this open space is four feet of earth saturated with water. What is the pressure of the water upon the tiles?[141]
It might be interesting to mention here that water is 815 times heavier than air. There's a drain that's four feet deep in the ground, filled only with air, and it's open at the end to let the air escape. Above this open space, there are four feet of earth that's filled with water. What’s the pressure of the water on the tiles?[141]
Mr. Thomas Arkell, in a communication to the Society of Arts, in England, says—
Mr. Thomas Arkell, in a message to the Society of Arts in England, says—
"The pressure due to a head of water four or five feet, may be imagined from the force with which water will come through the crevices of a hatch with that depth of water above it. Now, there is the same pressure of water to enter the vacuum in the pipe-drain as there is against the hatches, supposing the land to be full of water to the surface."
"The pressure from a four or five-foot head of water can be understood by the intensity with which water will force its way through the gaps of a hatch when that much water is above it. Similarly, there is the same pressure of water trying to fill the vacuum in the pipe drain as there is pushing against the hatches, assuming the land is fully submerged."
It is difficult to demonstrate the truth of this theory; but the same opinion has been expressed to the writer by persons of learning and of practical skill, based upon observations as to the entrance of water into gas pipes, from which it is almost, if not quite, impossible to exclude it by the most perfect joints in iron pipes. Whatever be the theory as to pressure, or the difficulties as to the water percolating through compact soils to the tiles, there will be no doubt left on the mind of any one, after one experiment tried in the field, that, in common cases, all the surplus water that reaches the tiles is freely admitted. A gentleman, who has commenced draining his farm, recently, in New Hampshire, expressed to the author his opinion, that tiles in his land admitted the water as freely as a hole of a similar size to the bore of the tile would admit it, if it could be kept open through the soil without the tile.
It's challenging to prove this theory; however, knowledgeable and skilled individuals have shared the same views with me, based on their observations regarding how water enters gas pipes, which makes it nearly impossible to completely prevent water intrusion even with perfectly constructed iron joints. No matter the theory about pressure or the challenges of water seeping through dense soils to the tiles, anyone who conducts a field experiment will have no doubt that, in typical situations, all the excess water reaching the tiles is readily accepted. A gentleman who recently started draining his farm in New Hampshire told me that he believes the tiles in his land let in water just as easily as a hole of the same size as the tile would, if it could remain open in the soil without the tile.
DURABILITY OF TILE DRAINS.
How long will they last? This is the first and most important question. Men, who have commenced with open ditches, and, having become disgusted with the deformity, the inconvenience, and the inefficiency of them, have then tried bushes, and boards, and turf, and found them, too, perishable; and again have used stones, and after a time seen them fail, through obstructions caused by moles or frost—these men have the right to a well-considered answer to this question.[142]
How long will they last? That’s the first and most important question. People who started with open ditches, and then got fed up with their ugliness, inconvenience, and inefficiency, have tried using bushes, boards, and turf, only to discover they also didn’t last. They then resorted to stones, only to see them fail over time due to blockages caused by moles or frost—these individuals deserve a thoughtful answer to this question.[142]
The foolish fellow in the Greek Reader, who, having heard that a crow would live a hundred years, purchased one to verify the saying, probably did not live long enough to ascertain that it was true. How long a properly laid tile-drain of hard-burnt tiles will endure, has not been definitely ascertained, but it is believed that it will outlast the life of him who lays it.
The foolish guy in the Greek Reader, who heard that a crow would live for a hundred years and bought one to see if it was true, probably didn’t live long enough to find out. No one knows exactly how long a well-laid tile drain made of hard-burnt tiles will last, but people believe it will last longer than the life of the person who installed it.
No tiles have been long enough laid in the United States to test this question by experience, and in England no further result seems to have been arrived at, than that the work is a permanent improvement.
No tiles have been laid long enough in the United States to test this question by experience, and in England, no further result seems to have been reached, other than that the work is a permanent improvement.
In another part of this treatise, may be found some account of Land Drainage Companies, and of Government loans in aid of improvements by drainage in Great Britain. One of these acts provides for a charge on the land for such improvements, to be paid in full in fifty years. That is to say, the expense of the drainage is an incumbrance like a mortgage on the land, at a certain rate of interest, and the tenant or occupant of the land, each year pays the interest and enough more to discharge the debt in just fifty years. Thus, it is assumed by the Government, that the improvement will last fifty years in its full operation, because the last year of the fifty pays precisely the same as every other year.
In another part of this document, you'll find information about Land Drainage Companies and government loans supporting drainage improvements in Great Britain. One of these laws allows for a charge on the land for such improvements, to be paid off in full over fifty years. In other words, the cost of drainage is treated like a mortgage on the land, with a specific interest rate, and the tenant or occupant of the land pays the interest each year along with enough extra to pay off the debt in exactly fifty years. Therefore, the government assumes that the improvement will remain fully effective for fifty years since the last payment at the end of that period will be exactly the same as each previous payment.
It may therefore be considered as the settled conviction of all branches of the British government, and of all the best-informed, practical land-drainers in that country, that TILE-DRAINAGE WILL ENDURE FIFTY YEARS AT LEAST, if properly executed.
It can thus be seen as the agreed belief of all branches of the British government and of all the most knowledgeable, practical land-drainers in that country that TILE DRAINAGE WILL LAST AT LEAST FIFTY YEARS, if done properly.
This is long enough to satisfy any American; for the migratory habits of our citizens, and the constant changes of cultivated fields into village and city lots, prevent our imagination even conceiving the idea that we or our posterity can remain for half a century upon the same farm.
This is long enough to satisfy any American; the way our citizens move around and the constant changes of farmland into town and city lots make it hard for us to even imagine that we or our descendants could stay on the same farm for half a century.
It is much easier, however, to lay tile-drains so that[143] they will not be of use half of fifty years, than to make them permanent in their effect. Tile-drainage, it cannot be too much enforced, is an operation requiring great care and considerable skill—altogether more care and skill than our common laborers, or even most of our farmers, are accustomed to exercise in their farm operations.
It is much easier, however, to install tile drains so that[143] they won't be effective for half of fifty years than to make them have lasting impacts. Tile drainage, it's important to emphasize, is a process that requires a lot of attention and skill—much more than our average laborers or even most of our farmers typically apply in their farming activities.
A blunder in draining, like the blunder of a physician, may be soon concealed by the grass that grows over it, but can never be corrected. Drainage is a new art in this country, and tile-making is a new art. Without good, hard-burnt tiles, no care or skill can make permanent work.
A mistake in drainage, much like a mistake made by a doctor, can quickly be hidden by the grass that grows over it, but it can never be fixed. Drainage is a new skill in this country, and tile-making is also a new skill. Without quality, well-baked tiles, no amount of care or expertise can create lasting results.
Tile-drainage will endure so long as the tiles last, if the work be properly done.
Tile drainage will last as long as the tiles remain intact, assuming the job is done correctly.
There is no reason why a tile should not last in the ground as long as a brick will last. Bricks will fall to pieces in the ground in a very short time if not hard-burnt, while hard-burnt bricks of good clay will last as long as granite.
There’s no reason a tile shouldn’t last in the ground just as long as a brick does. Bricks will break down in the ground pretty quickly if they aren’t hard-fired, while hard-fired bricks made from quality clay can last as long as granite.
Tiles must be hard-burnt in order to endure. But this is not all. Drains fail from various other causes than the crumbling of the tiles. They are frequently obstructed by mice, moles, frogs, and vermin of all kinds, if not protected at the outlet. They are often destroyed by the treading of cattle, and by the deposit of mud at the outlet, through insufficient care. They are liable to be filled with sand, through want of care in protecting the joints in laying, and through want of collars, and other means of keeping them in line. They are liable, too, to fill up by deposits of sand and the like, by being laid lower in some places than the parts nearer the outlet, so that the slack places catch and retain whatever is brought down, till the pipe is filled.
Tiles need to be fired at high temperatures to last. But that's not all. Drains can fail for many reasons besides the tiles crumbling. They often get blocked by mice, moles, frogs, and other pests if they're not covered at the outlet. They're frequently damaged by livestock stepping on them and by mud building up at the outlet due to neglect. They can also get filled with sand if the joints aren't properly protected when they’re laid, or if collars and other supports aren’t used to keep them aligned. Additionally, they can fill up with sand and other debris if they’re installed lower in some areas than those closer to the outlet, causing low spots to catch and hold whatever flows down until the pipe is completely blocked.
Frost is an enemy which in this country we have to[144] contend with, more than in any other, where tile-drainage has been much practiced.
Frosty is an enemy that we have to[144] deal with in this country more than anywhere else, where tile drainage is widely used.
Upon all these points, remarks will be found under the appropriate heads; and these suggestions are repeated here, because we know that haste and want of skill are likely to do much injury to the cause which we advocate. Any work that requires only energy and progress, is safe in American hands; but cautious and slow operations are by no means to their taste.
Upon all these points, comments will be found under the appropriate headings; and these suggestions are repeated here because we know that rushing and lack of skill can harm the cause we support. Any task that only requires effort and forward movement is safe in American hands; however, careful and slow processes are definitely not to their liking.
Dickens says, that on railways and coaches, wherever in England they say, "All right," the Americans use, instead, the phrase, "Go ahead." In tile-drainage, the motto, "All right," will be found far more safe than the motto, "Go ahead."
Dickens says that on railways and coaches, wherever in England they say "All right," the Americans instead say "Go ahead." In tile drainage, the motto "All right" is much safer than the motto "Go ahead."
Instances are given in England of drains laid with handmade tiles, which have operated well for thirty years, and have not yet failed.
Instances exist in England of drains made with handmade tiles that have worked well for thirty years and haven't failed yet.
Mr. Parkes informs us: "That, about 1804, pipe-tiles made tapering, with one end entering the other, and two inches in the smallest point, were laid down in the park now possessed by Sir Thomas Whichcote, Aswarby, Lincolnshire, and that they still act well."
Mr. Parkes tells us: "That, around 1804, tapered pipe-tiles, with one end fitting into the other and two inches at the narrowest point, were installed in the park now owned by Sir Thomas Whichcote, Aswarby, Lincolnshire, and they still work well."
Stephens gives the following instance of the durability of bricks used in draining:
Stephens provides the following example of how long-lasting bricks used in drainage are:
"Of the durability of common brick, when used in drains, there is a remarkable instance mentioned by Mr. George Guthrie, factor to the Earl of Stair or Calhoun, Wigtonshire. In the execution of modern draining on that estate, some brick-drains, on being intersected, emitted water very freely. According to documents which refer to these drains, it appears that they had been formed by the celebrated Marshal, Earl Stair, upwards of a hundred years ago. They were found between the vegetable mould and the clay upon which it rested, between the 'wet and the dry,' as the country phrase has it, and about thirty-one inches below the surface. They presented two forms—one consisting of two bricks set asunder on edge, and the other two laid lengthways across them, leaving between them an opening of four inches square for water,[145] but having no soles. The bricks had not sunk in the least through the sandy clay bottom upon which they rested, as they were three inches broad. The other form was of two bricks laid side by side, as a sole, with two others built or laid on each other, at both sides, upon the solid ground, and covered with flat stones, the building being packed on each side of the drain with broken bricks."
"There's a notable example of how durable common bricks can be when used in drains, as noted by Mr. George Guthrie, the factor for the Earl of Stair or Calhoun in Wigtonshire. During modern drainage work on that estate, some brick drains, when intersected, released water very freely. Records related to these drains indicate they were constructed by the renowned Marshal, Earl Stair, over a hundred years ago. They were located between the topsoil and the clay underneath, situated between the 'wet and the dry,' as people in the area say, about thirty-one inches below the surface. There were two designs—one had two bricks placed upright apart from each other, and the second had two laid lengthwise across them, creating a four-inch square opening for water,[145] and they had no soles. The bricks hadn’t sunk at all into the sandy clay base they rested on, since they were three inches wide. The other design consisted of two bricks laid side by side as a base, with two additional bricks stacked on each side, on solid ground, and covered with flat stones, while the area around the drain was filled with broken bricks."
In our chapter upon the "Obstruction of Drains," the various causes which operate against the permanency of drains, are more fully considered.
In our chapter on the "Obstruction of Drains," we take a closer look at the different factors that affect the durability of drains.
CHAPTER VII[146]
DIRECTION, DISTANCE, AND DEPTH OF DRAINS.
Direction of Drains.—Whence comes the Water?—Inclination of Strata.—Drains across the Slope let Water out as well as Receive it.—Defence against Water from Higher Land.—Open Ditches.—Headers.—Silt-basins.
Drain Directions.—Where does the Water come from?—Slope of Strata.—Drains across the slope both release and collect water.—Protection against water from higher ground.—Open ditches.—Headers.—Silt basins.
Distance of Drains.—Depends on Soil, Depth, Climate, Prices, System.—Conclusions as to Distance.
Drainage Distance.—Depends on soil, depth, climate, costs, system.—Conclusions regarding distance.
Depth of Drains.—Greatly Increases Cost.—Shallow Drains first tried in England.—10,000 Miles of Shallow Drains laid in Scotland by way of Education.—Drains must be below Subsoil plow, and Frost.—Effect of Frost on Tiles and Aqueducts.
Drain Depth.—Significantly Increases Costs.—Shallow Drains first tested in England.—10,000 Miles of Shallow Drains installed in Scotland for educational purposes.—Drains need to be below the plow depth of the subsoil and the frost line.—Impact of Frost on Tiles and Aqueducts.
DIRECTION OF DRAINS.
Whether drains should run up and down the slope of the hill, or directly across it, or in a diagonal line as a compromise between the first two, are questions which beginners in the art and mystery of drainage usually discuss with great zeal. It seems so plain to one man, at the first glance, that, in order to catch the water that is running down under the soil upon the subsoil, from the top of the hill to the bottom, you must cut a ditch across the current, that he sees no occasion to examine the question farther. Another, whose idea is, to catch the water in his drain before it rises to the surface, as it is passing up from below or running along on the subsoil, and keep it from rising higher than the bottom of his ditch, thinks it quite as obvious that the drains should run up and down the slope, that the water, once entering, may remain in the drain, going directly down hill to the outlet. A third hits on the Keythorpe system, and regarding the water as[147] flowing down the slope, under the soil, in certain natural channels in the subsoil, fancies they may best be cut off by drains, in the nature of mains, running diagonally across the slope.
Whether drains should run up and down the hill, directly across it, or at an angle as a compromise between the first two options are questions that beginners in drainage often discuss with great enthusiasm. One person, at first glance, finds it obvious that to catch the water flowing down through the soil, from the top of the hill to the bottom, a ditch must be cut across the flow, so they see no reason to think further about it. Another, who believes in stopping the water in the drain before it reaches the surface, as it rises from below or runs along the subsoil, thinks it’s just as clear that the drains should run up and down the slope, allowing the water to stay in the drain and flow directly downhill to the outlet. A third person considers the Keythorpe system, viewing the water as flowing down the slope under the soil in natural channels and imagines that these can be best intercepted by drains, acting as mains, that run diagonally across the slope.
These different ideas of men, if examined, will be found to result mainly from their different notions of the underground circulation of water. In considering the Theory of Moisture, an attempt was made to suggest the different causes of the wetness of land.
These different ideas about men, if looked into, will mainly stem from their varying beliefs about the underground flow of water. When discussing the Theory of Moisture, an effort was made to propose the different reasons for the wetness of land.
To drain land effectually, we must have a correct idea of the sources of the water that makes the particular field too wet; whether it falls from the clouds directly upon it; or whether it falls on land situated above it and sloping towards it, so that the water runs down, as upon a roof, from other fields or slopes to our own; or whether it gushes up in springs which find vent in particular spots, and so is diffused through the soil.
To effectively drain land, we need to clearly understand where the water that makes the field too wet is coming from. Is it falling directly from the clouds onto the field? Or is it coming from higher land that slopes towards it, allowing the water to run down, like on a roof, from other fields or slopes into ours? Or is it surfacing from springs that open up in certain areas, spreading through the soil?
If we have only to take care of the water that falls on our own field, from the clouds, that is quite a different matter from draining the whole adjoining region, and requires a different mode of operation. If your field is in the middle, or at the foot, of an undrained slope, from which the water runs on the surface over your land, or soaks through it toward some stream or swamp below, provision must be made not only for drainage of your own field, but also for partial drainage of your neighbor's above, or at least for defence against his surplus of water.
If we only need to manage the water that falls on our own land, that's a whole different situation than trying to drain the entire surrounding area, and it requires a different approach. If your land is situated in the middle or at the bottom of a slope that hasn't been drained, and water runs over or seeps through your property towards a stream or swamp below, you need to plan not just for draining your own land, but also for partially draining your neighbor's land above you, or at the very least, for protecting against their excess water.
The first, and leading idea to be kept in mind, as governing this question of the direction of drains, is the simple fact that water runs down hill; or, to express the fact more scientifically, water constantly seeks a lower level by the force of gravitation, and the whole object of drains is to open lower and still lower passages, into which the water may fall lower and lower until it is discharged from our field at a safe depth.[148]
The first and most important thing to remember about the direction of drains is that water flows downhill; or, to put it more scientifically, water always seeks a lower level due to gravity. The main purpose of drains is to create openings that lead to progressively lower levels, allowing the water to flow down until it's safely discharged from our field at a proper depth.[148]
Water goes down, then, by its own weight, unless there is something through which it cannot readily pass, to bring it out at the surface. It will go into the drains, only because they are lower than the land drained. It will never go upward to find a drain, and it will go toward a drain the more readily, in proportion as the descent is more steep toward it.
Water flows downward due to its own weight, unless there’s something it can't easily pass through that brings it back to the surface. It will enter the drains only because they are lower than the surrounding land. It will never flow upward to reach a drain, and it will move toward a drain more easily the steeper the decline is toward it.
To decide properly what direction a drain should have, it is necessary, then, to have a definite and a correct idea as to what office the drain is to perform, what water is to fall into it, what land it is to drain.
To properly determine the direction a drain should take, it's essential to have a clear and accurate understanding of the purpose the drain serves, what water will enter it, and what land it will be draining.
Suppose the general plan to be, to lay drains forty feet apart, and four feet deep over the field, and the question now to be determined, as to the direction, whether across, or up and down the slope, there being fall enough to render either course practicable. The first point of inquiry is, what is expected of each drain? How much and what land should it drain? The general answer must be, forty feet breadth, either up and down the slope, or across it; according to the direction. But we must be more definite in our inquiry than even this. From what forty feet of land will the water fall into the drain? Obviously, from some land in which the water is higher than the bottom of the drain.
Suppose the overall plan is to install drains forty feet apart and four feet deep across the field. The question now is about the direction: should they run across or up and down the slope, considering there’s enough slope to make either option feasible? The first point to clarify is what each drain is supposed to do. How much land should it effectively drain? The general answer is that each drain should cover forty feet, either along the slope or across it, depending on the direction. However, we need to be more specific than that. From which forty feet of land will the water flow into the drain? Clearly, it will be from land where the water level is higher than the bottom of the drain.
If, then, the drain run directly across the slope, most of the water that can fall into it, must come from the forty feet breadth of land between the drain in question, and the drain next above it. If the water were falling on an impervious surface, it would all run according to the slope of the surface, in which case, by the way, no drains but those across, could catch any of it except what fell upon the drains. But the whole theory of drainage is otherwise, and is based on the idea that we change the course of the underground flow, by drawing out the water[149] at given points by our drains; or, in other words, that "the water seeks the lowest level in all directions."
If the drain runs directly across the slope, most of the water that enters it must come from the forty feet of land between the drain in question and the drain just above it. If the water were falling on a surface that couldn’t absorb it, it would all flow according to the slope of that surface. In that case, only drains positioned across the slope could capture any water, except for what fell directly on the drains. However, the whole theory of drainage is different; it’s based on the idea that we alter the path of underground water flow by removing it at specific points with our drains. In other words, "water seeks the lowest level in all directions."
Upon the best view the writer has been able to take of the two systems as to the direction of drains, there is but a very small advantage in theory in favor of either over the other, in soil which is homogeneous. But it must be borne in mind that homogeneous soil is rather the exception in nature than the rule.
Upon the best view the writer has been able to take of the two systems as to the direction of drains, there is but a very small advantage in theory in favor of either over the other, in soil which is homogeneous. But it must be borne in mind that homogeneous soil is rather the exception in nature than the rule.
Without undertaking to advance or defend any peculiar geological views of the structure of the earth, or of the depositions or formations that compose its surface, it may be said, that very often the first four feet of subsoil is composed of strata, or layers of earth of varying porosity.
Without trying to promote or defend any specific geological ideas about the structure of the earth or the layers and formations that make up its surface, it can be said that quite often the first four feet of subsoil consists of strata, or layers of earth with varying levels of porosity.
Beneath sand will be found a stratum of clay, or of compact or cemented gravel, and frequently these strata are numerous and thin. Indeed, if there be not some stratum below the soil, which impedes the passage of water, it would pass downward, and the land would need no artificial drainage. Quite often it will be found that the dip or inclination of the various strata below the soil is different from that of the surface.
Beneath the sand, there will be a layer of clay, or compacted or cemented gravel, and often these layers are many and thin. In fact, if there isn’t a layer beneath the soil that blocks water from passing through, it would flow downwards, and the land wouldn’t need any artificial drainage. It’s common to find that the slope or angle of the different layers beneath the soil differs from that of the surface.
The surface may have a considerable slope, while the lower strata lie nearly level, as if they had been cut through by artificial grading.
The surface might be quite sloped, while the lower layers are almost flat, as if they were carved out by man-made leveling.
The following figure from the Cyclopedia of Agriculture, with the explanation, fully illustrates this idea.
The following figure from the Cyclopedia of Agriculture, along with the explanation, clearly illustrates this idea.
"In many subsoils there are thin partings, or layers, of porous materials, interspersed between the strata, which, although not of sufficient capacity to give rise to actual springs, yet exude sufficient water to indicate their presence. These partings occasionally crop out, and give rise to those damp spots, which are to be seen diversifying the surface of fields, when the drying breezes of Spring have begun to act upon them. In the following cut, the light lines represent such partings.
"In many subsoils, there are thin layers of porous materials mixed in between the strata, which, while not enough to create actual springs, still release enough water to show that they're there. These layers sometimes appear on the surface, creating those damp spots that you can see scattered across fields when the drying breezes of Spring start to affect them. In the following cut, the light lines represent these layers."
"Now, it will be evident, in draining such land, that if the drains be disposed in a direction transverse or oblique to the slope, it will often[150] happen that the drains, no matter how skillfully planned, will not reach these partings at all, as at A. In this case, the water will continue to flow on in its accustomed channel, and discharge its waters at B.
"Now, it’s clear that when draining such land, if the drains are placed in a direction that’s across or at an angle to the slope, it often[150] happens that the drains, no matter how well designed, won’t actually reach these divides at all, like at A. In this situation, the water will keep flowing along its usual path and release its water at B."

Fig. 34—Drains across the Slope.
Fig. 34—Drains on the Slope.
"But again, even though it does reach these partings, as at C, a considerable portion of water will escape from the drain itself, and flow to the lower level of its old point of discharge at D. Whereas, a drain cut in the line of the slope, as from D to E, intersects all these partings, and furnishes an outlet to them at a lower level than their old ones."
"But again, even though it reaches these points of separation, like at C, a significant amount of water will flow out from the drain itself and move to the lower level of its previous discharge point at D. In contrast, a drain placed along the slope, from D to E, intersects all these separation points and provides an outlet for them at a lower level than their previous locations."
These reasons are, it is true, applicable only to land of peculiar structure; but there are reasons for selecting the line of greatest fall for the direction of drains which are applicable to all lands alike.
These reasons indeed apply only to land with a unique structure; however, there are reasons for choosing the path of steepest descent for the direction of drains that are relevant to all types of land.
"The line of the greatest fall is the only line in which a drain is relatively lower than the land on either side of it." Whether we regard the surplus water as having recently fallen upon the field, and as being stopped near the surface by an impervious stratum, or as brought down on these strata from above, we have it to be disposed of as it rests upon this stratum, and is borne out by it to the surface.
"The line of the greatest fall is the only line where a drain sits lower than the land on either side." Whether we see the excess water as recently fallen on the field and trapped near the surface by an impermeable layer, or as coming down on these layers from above, we need to manage it as it rests on this layer and is carried out to the surface by it.
If there is a decided dip, or inclination, of this stratum outward down the slope, it is manifest that the water cannot pass backward to a cross drain higher up the slope. The course of the water must be downward upon the stratum on which it lies, and so all between two cross[151] drains must pass to the lower one. The upper drain could take very little, if any, and the greater the inclination of this stratum, the less could flow backward.
If there’s a noticeable slope of this layer going down the hill, it’s clear that the water can’t flow back to a cross drain higher up. The water has to flow down the layer it’s on, so everything between two cross[151] drains has to go toward the lower one. The upper drain can take very little, if any, water, and the steeper the slope of this layer, the less water can flow back.
But in such case a drain down the slope gives to the water borne up by these strata, an outlet of the depth of the drain. If the drain be four feet deep, it cuts the water-bearing strata each at that depth, and takes off the water.
But in that case, a drain down the slope provides an outlet for the water held by these layers, to the depth of the drain. If the drain is four feet deep, it intersects the water-bearing layers at that depth and removes the water.
In these cases, the different layers of clay or other impervious "partings," are like the steps of a huge stairway, with the soil filling them up to a regular grade. The ditch cuts through these steps, letting the water that rests on them fall off at the ends, instead of running over the edges. Drains across the slope have been significantly termed "mere catch-waters."
In these situations, the various layers of clay or other waterproof "barriers" resemble the steps of a massive staircase, with the soil filling them up to a consistent level. The ditch cuts through these steps, allowing the water that sits on them to drain off at the ends instead of flowing over the sides. Drains running across the slope are often called "simple catch-waters."
If we wish to use water to irrigate lands, we carefully conduct it along the surface across the slope, allowing it to flow over and to soak through the soil. If we desire to carry the same water off the field as speedily as possible, we should carry our surface ditch directly down the slope.
If we want to use water for irrigation, we guide it along the surface down the slope, letting it flow over and soak into the soil. If we want to drain the same water from the field quickly, we should direct our surface ditch straight down the slope.
Now, looking at the operation of drains across the slope, and supposing that each drain is draining the breadth next above it, we will suppose the drain to be running full of water. What is there to prevent the water from passing out of that drain in its progress, at every point of the tiles, and so saturating the breadth below it? Drainpipes afford the same facility for water to soak out at the lower side, as to enter on the upper, and there is the same law of gravitation to operate in each case. Mr. Denton gives instances in which he has observed, where drains were carried across the slope, in Warwickshire, lines of moisture at a regular distance below the drains. He could ascertain, he says, the depth of the drain itself, by taking the difference of height between the line of the[152] drain at the surface, and that of the line of moisture beneath it. He says again:
Now, looking at how drains work across the slope, and assuming that each drain is managing the area just above it, let's consider the drain filled with water. What stops the water from flowing out of that drain at every point along the tiles and soaking the area below? Drainpipes allow water to seep out from the lower side, just as easily as it can enter from the upper side, and the same gravitational force acts in both scenarios. Mr. Denton provides examples from Warwickshire, where he noticed lines of moisture consistently below the drains that cross the slope. He explains that he could determine the depth of the drain by measuring the height difference between the line of the [152] drain at the surface and the moisture line beneath it. He adds:
"I recently had an opportunity, in Scotland, of gauging the quantity of water traveling along an important drain carried obliquely across the fall, when I ascertained with certainty, that, although the land through which it passed was comparatively full of water, the drain actually lost more than it gained in a passage of several chains through it."
"I recently had a chance, in Scotland, to gauge the amount of water flowing through an important drain that ran diagonally across the slope. I found out for sure that, even though the land it passed through was fairly saturated with water, the drain actually lost more water than it took in over a distance of several chains."
So far as authority goes, there seems, with the exception of some advocates of the Keythorpe system, of which an account has been given, to be very little difference of opinion. Mr. Denton says:
So far as authority is concerned, there seems to be very little disagreement, except for some supporters of the Keythorpe system, which has been discussed. Mr. Denton says:
"With respect to the direction of drains, I believe very little difference of opinion exists. All the most successful drainers concur in the line of the steepest descent, as essential to effective and economical drainage. Certain exceptions are recognized in the West of England, but I believe it will be found, as practice extends in that quarter, that the exceptions have been allowed in error."
"Regarding the direction of drains, I think there's very little disagreement. All the most successful drainers agree that the path of the steepest descent is crucial for effective and cost-efficient drainage. There are certain exceptions noted in the West of England, but I believe that as practice develops in that area, it will be found that those exceptions were mistaken."
In another place, he says:
He says elsewhere:
"The very general concurrence in the adoption of the line of greatest descent, as the proper course for the minor drains in soils free from rock, would almost lead me to declare this as an incontrovertible principle."
"The widespread agreement on using the line of greatest descent as the best approach for minor drains in soils without rock almost makes me want to call this an undeniable principle."
Allusion has been made to cases where we may have to defend ourselves from the flow of water from higher undrained lands of our neighbor. To arrest the flow of mere surface water, an open ditch, or catch-water, is the most effectual, as well as the most obvious mode. There are many instances in New England, where lands upon the lowest slopes of hills are overflowed by water which fell high up upon the hill, and, after passing downward till arrested by rock formation, is borne out again to the surface, in such quantity as to produce, just at the foot of the hill, almost a swamp. This land is usually rich from the wash of the hills, but full of cold water.[153]
References have been made to situations where we might need to protect ourselves from water flowing down from our neighbor's higher, undrained land. To stop the movement of surface water, an open ditch or catchment area is the most effective and obvious solution. There are many examples in New England where land at the lower slopes of hills gets flooded by water that fell much higher up. As this water travels downward and is blocked by rock formations, it re-emerges at the surface in such volumes that it creates almost a swamp right at the base of the hill. This land tends to be fertile due to the soil washed down from the hills, but it’s often saturated with cold water.[153]
To effect perfect drainage of a portion of this land, which we will suppose to be a gentle slope, the first object must be to cut off the flow of water upon or near the surface. An open ditch across the top would most certainly effect this object, and it may be doubtful whether any other drain would be sufficient. This would depend upon the quantity of water flowing down. If the quantity be very great at times, a part of it would be likely to flow across the top of an under-drain, from not having time to percolate downward into it.
To achieve proper drainage of a section of this land, which we’ll assume is a gentle slope, the main goal must be to prevent water from flowing on or near the surface. An open ditch at the top would definitely accomplish this, and it might be questionable whether any other type of drain would be effective. This would rely on the amount of water flowing down. If the amount is very high at times, some of it is likely to flow over the top of an underground drain, not having enough time to seep down into it.
In all cases, it is advised, where our work stops upon a slope, to introduce a cross-drain, connecting the tops of all the minor-drains. This cross-drain is called a header. The object of it is to cut off the water that may be passing along in the subsoil down the slope, and which would otherwise be likely to pass downward between the system of drains to a considerable distance before finding them. If we suppose the ground saturated with water, and our drains running up the slope and stopping at 4 feet depth, with no header connecting them, they, in effect, stop against 4 feet head of water, and in order to drain the land as far up as they go, must not only take their fair proportion of water which lies between them, but must draw down this 4 feet head beyond them. This they cannot do, because the water from a higher source, with the aid of capillary attraction, and the friction or resistance met with in percolation, will keep up this head of water far above the drained level.
In all cases, it's recommended that where our work ends on a slope, we add a cross-drain that connects the tops of all the minor drains. This cross-drain is called a header. Its purpose is to intercept any water that might be flowing through the subsoil down the slope, which would otherwise likely travel a considerable distance downward between the drains before reaching them. If we imagine the ground is saturated with water, and our drains run uphill and stop at a depth of 4 feet without a header connecting them, they effectively stop against a 4-foot head of water. To drain the land as far up as they go, they must deal with not only their fair share of water in between but also draw down this 4-foot head from above. However, they can't do this because water from a higher source, aided by capillary attraction and the friction or resistance encountered during percolation, will maintain this head of water well above the drained level.
In railway cuttings, and the like, we often see a slope of this kind cut through, without drying the land above the cutting; and if the slope be disposed in alternate layers of sand or gravel, and clay, the water will continue to flow out high up on the perpendicular bank. Even in porous soils of homogeneous character, it will be found that the head of water, if we may use the expression, is[154] affected but a short distance by a drain across its flow. Indeed, the whole theory as to the distance of drains apart, rests upon the idea, that the limit to which drains may be expected effectually to operate, is at most but two or three rods.
In railway cuttings and similar areas, we often see slopes like this cut through without drying out the land above. If the slope is made up of alternating layers of sand or gravel and clay, the water will keep flowing out high up on the steep bank. Even in porous soils that are uniform, it turns out that the head of water, if we can call it that, is[154] only affected for a short distance by a drain installed across its flow. In fact, the whole theory about how far apart drains should be is based on the idea that drains can effectively operate only within a distance of two or three rods at most.
Whether, in a particular case, a header alone will be sufficient to cut off the flow of water from the higher land, or whether, in addition to the header, an open catch-water may be required, must depend upon the quantity of water likely to flow through or upon the land. An under-drain might be expected to absorb any moderate quantity of what may be termed drainage-water, but it cannot stop a river or mill-stream; and if the earth above the tiles be compact, even water flowing through the soil with rapidity, might pass across it. If there is reason to apprehend this, an open ditch might be added to the header; or, if this is not considered sufficiently scientific or in good taste, a tile-drain of sufficient capacity may be laid, with the ditch above it carefully packed with small stones to the top of the ground. Such a drain would be likely to receive sand and other obstructing substances, as well as a large amount of water, and should, for both reasons, be carried off independently of the small drains, which would thus be left to discharge their legitimate service.
Whether a header alone is enough to stop water from flowing from higher land, or if an open catch-water is also needed, depends on the amount of water that might flow onto or through the land. An under-drain can handle a moderate amount of drainage water, but it can't stop a river or a mill-stream; and if the soil above the tiles is dense, even water flowing quickly through the soil might bypass it. If there’s a concern about this, an open ditch could be added to the header; or, if that seems not sophisticated or aesthetically pleasing, a properly sized tile-drain can be installed, with the ditch above it filled carefully with small stones up to ground level. This type of drain will likely collect sand and other debris, along with a significant volume of water, so it should be drained separately from the smaller drains, allowing them to function as intended.
Where it is thought best to connect an open, or surface drain, with a covered drain, it will add much to its security against silt and other obstructions, to interpose a trap or silt-basin at the junction, and thus allow the water to pass off comparatively clean. Where, however, there is a large flow of water into a basin, it will be kept so much in motion as to carry along with it a large amount of earth, and thus endanger the drain below, unless it be very large.
Where it's considered best to connect an open or surface drain with a covered drain, adding a trap or silt basin at the junction greatly enhances protection against silt and other blockages, allowing the water to flow off relatively clean. However, when there's a significant amount of water flowing into a basin, it will remain in motion enough to transport a large quantity of earth, potentially threatening the drain below unless it's quite large.
DISTANCES APART, OR FREQUENCY OF DRAINS.[155]
The reader, who has studied carefully the rival systems of "deep drainage" and "thorough drainage," has seen that the distance of drains apart, is closely connected with that controversy. The greatest variety of opinion is expressed by different writers as to the proper distances, ranging all the way from ten feet apart to seventy, or even more.
The reader, who has carefully examined the competing systems of "deep drainage" and "thorough drainage," has noticed that the spacing of drains is closely related to this debate. Different authors express a wide range of opinions about the appropriate distances, with suggestions varying anywhere from ten feet apart to seventy or even more.
Many English writers have ranged themselves on one side or the other of some sharp controversy as to the merits of some peculiar system. Some distinguished geologist has discovered, or thinks he has, some new law of creation by which he can trace the underground currents of water; or some noble noble lord has "patronized" into notice some caprice of an aspiring engineer, and straight-way the kingdom is convulsed with contests to set up or cast down these idols. By careful observation, it is said, we may find "sermons in stones, and good in everything;" and, standing aloof from all exciting controversies, we may often profit, not only by the science and wisdom of our brethren, but also by their errors and excesses. If, by the help of the successes and failures of our English neighbors, we shall succeed in attaining to their present standard of perfection in agriculture, we shall certainly make great advances upon our present position.
Many English writers have taken sides in sharp debates about the merits of various unique systems. Some well-known geologist has discovered, or believes he has discovered, a new law of creation that helps him trace underground water currents; or some noble lord has brought attention to some idea from an ambitious engineer, and suddenly the entire kingdom is shaken by disputes to support or challenge these new ideas. It's said that through careful observation, we can find "sermons in stones, and good in everything," and by staying away from heated controversies, we can often benefit not just from the knowledge and wisdom of our peers, but also from their mistakes and excesses. If, with the help of the successes and failures of our English neighbors, we can reach their current level of excellence in agriculture, we will definitely make significant progress from where we currently are.
As the distances of drains apart, depend manifestly on many circumstances, which may widely vary in the diversity of soil, climate, and cost of labor and materials to be found in the United States, it will be convenient to arrange our remarks on the subject under appropriate heads.
As the distances between drains depend clearly on many factors that can differ greatly due to variations in soil, climate, and the costs of labor and materials in the United States, it will be helpful to organize our comments on the topic into relevant sections.
DISTANCES DEPEND UPON THE NATURE OF THE SOIL.
Water runs readily through sand or gravel. In such soils it easily seeks and finds its level. If it be drawn[156] out at one point, it tends towards that point from all directions. In a free, open sand, you may draw out all the water at one opening, almost as readily as from an open pond.
Water easily flows through sand or gravel. In these types of soil, it quickly finds its level. If it's pulled out at one spot, it moves toward that spot from all sides. In loose, open sand, you can remove all the water from one opening almost as simply as from an open pond.
Yet, even such sands may require draining. A body of sandy soil frequently lies not only upon clay, but in a basin; so that, if the sand were removed, a pond would remain. In such a case, a few deep drains, rightly placed, might be sufficient. This, however, is a case not often met with, though open, sandy soil upon clay is a common formation.
Yet, even sandy soil might need to be drained. A layer of sandy soil often sits on top of clay and in a bowl shape, so if the sand was taken away, a pond would form. In this situation, a few deep drains placed correctly could do the trick. However, this isn’t a scenario that comes up frequently, even though sandy soil on clay is a common setup.
Then there is the other extreme of compact clay, through which water seems scarcely to percolate at all. Yet it has water in it, that may probably soak out by the same process by which it soaked in. Very few soils, of even such as are called clay, are impervious to water, especially in the condition in which they are found in nature. To render them impervious, it is necessary to wet and stir them up, or, as it is termed, puddle them. Any soil, so far as it has been weathered—that is, exposed to air, water and frost—is permeable to water to a greater or less degree; so that we may feel confident that the upper stratum of any soil, not constantly under water, will readily allow the water to pass through.
Then there's the other extreme of compact clay, through which water barely seems to seep at all. Yet it contains water that can probably drain out through the same process it soaked in. Very few soils, even those classified as clay, are completely waterproof, especially in their natural state. To make them waterproof, it's necessary to wet and mix them up, a process called puddling. Any soil that has been weathered—that is, exposed to air, water, and frost—is permeable to water to some extent; so we can be confident that the upper layer of any soil, not constantly submerged, will easily let water pass through.
And in considering the "Drainage of Stiff Clays," we shall see that the most obstinate clays are usually so affected by the operation of drainage, that they crack, and so open passages for the water to the drains.
And when we look at the "Drainage of Stiff Clays," we’ll notice that the toughest clays are typically impacted by drainage in such a way that they crack, creating openings for water to reach the drains.
All gravels, black mud of swamps, and loamy soils of any kind, are readily drained.
All types of gravel, black swamp mud, and any kind of loamy soil drain easily.
Occasionally, however—even in tracts of easy drainage, as a whole—deposits are found of some combinations with iron, so firmly cemented together, as to be almost impenetrable with the pick-axe, and apparently impervious[157] to water. Exceptional cases of this nature must be carefully sought for by the drainer.
Sometimes, though—even in areas that generally drain well—there are deposits of certain iron combinations that are so tightly packed that they are nearly impossible to break apart with a pickaxe, and seem to be completely waterproof[157]. The drainer must look closely for these rare cases.
Whenever a wet spot is observed, seek for the cause, and be satisfied whether it is wet because a spring bursts up from the bottom; or because the subsoil is impervious, and will not allow the surface-water to pass downward. Ascertain carefully the cause of the evil, and then skillfully doctor the disease, and not the symptoms merely. A careful attention to the theory of moisture, will go far to enable us properly to determine the requisite frequency of drains.
Whenever you notice a wet spot, look for the cause, and determine whether it’s wet because a spring is coming up from the ground or because the subsoil is impermeable and isn’t letting surface water seep down. Identify the root of the problem, and then address the issue itself, not just the symptoms. A thorough understanding of moisture theory will help us figure out how often we need to install drains.
DISTANCES DEPEND UPON THE DEPTH OF THE DRAINS.
The relations of the depth and distance of drains will be more fully considered, in treating of the depth of drains. The idea that depth will compensate for frequency, in all cases, seems now to be abandoned. It is conceded that clay-soils, which readily absorb moisture, and yet are strongly retentive, cannot be drained with sufficient rapidity, or even thoroughness, by drains at any depth, unless they are also within certain distances.
The relationship between the depth and distance of drains will be explored in more detail when discussing drain depth. The belief that depth can always make up for how often drains are placed seems to be losing support. It's acknowledged that clay soils, which absorb moisture easily but hold onto it strongly, cannot be drained quickly or effectively at any depth unless they are also spaced at certain distances.
In a porous soil, as a general rule, the deeper the drain, the further it will draw. The tendency of water is to lie level in the soil; but capillary attraction and mechanical obstructions offer constant resistance to this tendency. The farther water has to pass in the soil, the longer time, other things being equal, will be required for the passage. Therefore, although a single deep drain might, in ten days lower the water-line as much as two drains of the same depth, or, in other words, might draw the water all down to its own level, yet, it is quite evident that the two drains might do the work in less time—possibly, in five days. We have seen already the necessity of laying drains deep enough to be below the reach of the subsoil plow and below frost, so that, in the Northern States, the[158] question of shallow drainage seems hardly debatable. Yet, if we adopt the conclusion that four feet is the least allowable depth, where an outfall can be found, there may be the question still, whether, in very open soils, a still greater depth may not be expedient, to be compensated by increased distance.
In porous soil, generally speaking, the deeper the drain, the further it will draw water. Water tends to level out in the soil, but capillary action and physical barriers constantly resist this tendency. The farther water has to travel through the soil, the longer it will take, assuming all other factors are equal. So, although a single deep drain might lower the water line as much as two drains of the same depth in ten days, drawing the water down to its own level, it's clear that the two drains could complete the task in less time—possibly in five days. We have already established the need for drains to be deep enough to be below the reach of the subsoil plow and below the frost line, so in the Northern States, the question of shallow drainage is hardly up for debate. However, if we agree that four feet is the minimum allowable depth when an outfall is available, there may still be a question of whether, in very open soils, a greater depth might be beneficial, to be offset by increased distance.
DISTANCES DEPEND UPON CLIMATE.
Climate includes the conditions of temperature and moisture, and so, necessarily, the seasons. In the chapter which treats of Rain, it will be seen that the quantity of rain which falls in the year is singularly various in different places. Even, in England, "the annual average rain-fall of the wettest place in Cumberland is stated to be 141 inches, while 19½ inches may be taken as the average fall in Essex. In Cumberland, there are 210 days in the year in which rain falls, and in Chiswick, near London, but 124."
Climate encompasses temperature and moisture conditions, which means it naturally includes the seasons. In the chapter that discusses Rain, you'll see that the amount of rain that falls throughout the year varies greatly in different locations. For example, in England, "the annual average rainfall in the wettest spot in Cumberland is reported to be 141 inches, while the average in Essex is around 19½ inches. In Cumberland, it rains on 210 days in the year, compared to just 124 days in Chiswick, near London."
A reference to the tables in another place, will show us an infinite variety in the rain-fall at different points of our own country.
A reference to the tables elsewhere will show us an endless variety in rainfall at different locations in our country.
If we expect, therefore, to furnish passage for but two feet of water in the year, our drains need not be so numerous as would be necessary to accommodate twice that quantity, unless, indeed, the time for its passage may be different; and this leads us to another point which should ever be kept in mind in New England—the necessity of quick drainage. The more violent storms and showers of our country, as compared with England, have been spoken of when considering The Size of Tiles. The sudden transition from Winter to Summer, from the breaking up of deep snows with the heavy falls of rain, to our brief and hasty planting time, requires that our system of drainage should be efficient, not only to take off large quantities of water, but to take them off in a very short[159] time. How rapidly water may be expected to pass off by drainage, is not made clear by writers on the subject.
If we expect to drain just two feet of water in a year, we don’t need as many drains as we would if we were accommodating double that amount, unless the timing for draining is different. This brings us to another important point to remember in New England—the need for fast drainage. Our country experiences more intense storms and showers compared to England, which we discussed when looking at The Size of Tiles. The quick shift from winter to summer, from melting deep snow to heavy rain followed by our short and rapid planting season, demands that our drainage system be effective, not just in removing large amounts of water, but in doing so quickly[159]. It's not clear from current literature exactly how quickly we can expect water to drain away.
"One inch in depth," says an English writer, "is a very heavy fall of rain in a day, and it generally takes two days for the water to drain fully from deep drained land." One inch of water over an acre is calculated to be something more than one hundred tons. This seems, in gross, to be a large amount, but we should expect that an inch, or even two inches of water, spread evenly over a field, would soon disappear from the surface; and if not prevented by some impervious obstruction, it must continue downward.
"An inch of rain in a day," says an English writer, "is a significant amount, and it usually takes two days for water to completely drain from well-drained land." An inch of water on an acre is estimated to weigh a bit over one hundred tons. While that sounds like a lot, we would anticipate that an inch, or even two inches, of water spread evenly over a field would quickly vanish from the surface; and unless blocked by some impermeable barrier, it should keep moving downward.
It is said, on good authority, that, in England, the smallest sized pipes, if the fall be good, will be sufficiently large, at ordinary distances, to carry off all the surplus water. In the author's own fields, where two-inch tiles are laid at four feet depth and fifty feet apart, in an open soil, they seem amply sufficient to relieve the ground of all surplus water from rain, in a very few days. Most of them have never ceased to run every day in the year, but as they are carried up into an undrained plain, they probably convey much more water than falls upon the land in which they lie.
It is said by reliable sources that, in England, the smallest pipes, if sloped properly, will be big enough, over normal distances, to drain away all the excess water. In the author's own fields, where two-inch tiles are placed four feet deep and fifty feet apart in well-draining soil, they seem more than adequate to remove all excess rainwater within just a few days. Most of them run continuously throughout the year, but since they extend into an undrained area, they likely carry away more water than what actually falls on the land where they are installed.
So far as our own observation goes, their flow increases almost as soon as rain begins to fall, and subsides, after it ceases, about as soon as the water in the little river into which they lead, sinks back into its ordinary channel, the freshet in the drains and in the stream being nearly simultaneous. Probably, two-inch pipes, at fifty feet distances, will carry off, with all desirable rapidity, any quantity of water that will ever fall, if the soil be such that the water can pass through it to the distance necessary to find the drains; but it is equally probable that, in a compact clay soil, fifty feet distance is quite too great for sufficiently[160] rapid drainage, because the water cannot get to the drains with sufficient rapidity.
As far as we can see, their flow starts to increase almost instantly when it begins to rain, and it decreases shortly after the rain stops, coinciding with the little river they're connected to going back to its normal level. The surge in both the drains and the stream happens at about the same time. It’s likely that two-inch pipes spaced fifty feet apart can handle any amount of water that will ever fall, as long as the soil allows the water to reach the drains. However, it's also likely that in dense clay soil, fifty feet is too far for effective drainage because the water can't reach the drains quickly enough.[160]
DISTANCES DEPEND UPON THE COMPARATIVE PRICES OF LABOR AND TILES.
The fact, that the last foot of a four-foot drain costs as much labor as the first three feet, is shown in another chapter, and the deeper we go, the greater the comparative cost of the labor. With tiles at $10 per thousand, the cost of opening and filling a four-foot ditch is, in, round numbers, by the rod, equal to twice the cost of the tiles. In porous soils, therefore, where depth may be made to compensate for greater distance, it is always a matter for careful estimate, whether we shall practice true economy by laying the tiles at great depths, or at the smallest depth at which they will be safe from frost and the subsoil plow, and at shorter distances. The rule is manifest that, where labor is cheap and tiles are dear, it is true economy to dig deep and lay few tiles; and, where tiles are cheap and labor is dear, it is economy to make the number of drains, if possible, compensate for less depth.
The fact that the last foot of a four-foot drain takes as much labor as the first three feet is explained in another chapter, and the deeper we go, the higher the relative cost of the labor. With tiles priced at $10 per thousand, the cost of digging and filling a four-foot ditch is, in round numbers, about twice the cost of the tiles per rod. Therefore, in porous soils, where depth can offset greater distance, we must carefully consider whether we can truly save money by laying the tiles at greater depths or at the shallowest depth that keeps them safe from frost and the subsoil plow, while also maintaining shorter distances. It’s clear that where labor is cheap and tiles are expensive, it makes sense to dig deep and use fewer tiles; whereas, where tiles are affordable and labor is costly, it’s wiser to increase the number of drains to offset the shallower depth.
DISTANCES DEPEND UPON SYSTEM.
While we would not lay down an arbitrary arrangement for any farm, except upon a particular examination, and while we would by no means advocate what has been called the gridiron system—of drains everywhere at equal depths and distances—yet some system is absolutely essential, in any operation that approaches to thorough drainage.
While we wouldn't set up a random layout for any farm without a thorough assessment, and we definitely don't support what's known as the gridiron system—having drains everywhere at uniform depths and distances—we do believe that some system is absolutely necessary for any operation that aims for effective drainage.
If it be only desired to cut off some particular springs, or to assist Nature in some ravine or basin, a deep drain here and there may be expedient; but when any considerable surface is to be drained, there can be no good work without a connected plan of operations.[161]
If the goal is just to cut off certain springs or to help Nature in a ravine or basin, then digging a deep drain here and there might be useful; but when a larger area needs to be drained, a coordinated plan of action is necessary for good results.[161]
Mains must be laid from the outfall, through the lowest parts; and into the mains the smaller drains must be conducted, upon such a system as that there may be the proper fall or inclination throughout, and that the whole field shall be embraced.
Mains must be laid from the outfall, through the lowest areas; and the smaller drains must lead into the mains, in a way that ensures there is a proper slope or incline throughout, allowing the entire field to be covered.
Again, a perfect plan of the completed work, accurately drawn on paper, should always be preserved for future reference. Now it is manifest, that it is impossible to lay out a given field, with proper mains and small drains, dividing the fall as equally as practicable between the different parts of an undulating field, preserving a system throughout, by which, with the aid of a plan, any drain may at any time be traced, without making distances conform somewhat to the system of the whole.
Again, a perfect plan of the finished work, accurately drawn on paper, should always be kept for future reference. It's clear that it's impossible to layout a specific field with proper main drains and smaller drains, dividing the slope as evenly as possible between the various parts of a hilly field, while maintaining a system that allows any drain to be traced at any time with the help of a plan, without having to adjust distances to fit the overall system.
It is easily demonstrable, too, that drains at right angles with the mains, and so parallel with each other, are the shortest possible drains in land that needs uniform drainage. They take each a more uniform share of the water, and serve a greater breadth of soil than when laid at acute angles. While, therefore, it may be supposed that in particular parts of the field, distances somewhat greater or less might be advisable, considered independently, yet in practice, it will be found best, usually, to pay becoming deference to order, "Heaven's first law," and sacrifice something of the individual good, to the leading idea of the general welfare.
It’s easy to show that drains that run at right angles to the main lines, and are therefore parallel to each other, are the shortest option for land that requires even drainage. They each take a more consistent share of water and cover a wider area of soil compared to drains that are laid at sharp angles. While it might be suggested that in certain areas of the field, slightly longer or shorter distances could be beneficial when looked at individually, in practice, it's usually best to respect the principle of order, "Heaven's first law," and give up some individual benefit for the greater good.
In the letter of Mr. Denton, in another chapter, some remarks will be found upon the subject of which we are treating. The same gentleman has, in a published paper, illustrated the impossibility of strict adherence to any arbitrary rule in the distances or arrangement of drains, as follows:
In Mr. Denton's letter, which can be found in another chapter, there are some comments on the topic we're discussing. The same individual has, in a published paper, demonstrated the impossibility of strictly following any arbitrary rules regarding the distances or arrangement of drains, as follows:
"The wetness of land, which for distinction's sake, I have called 'the water of pressure,' like the water of springs, to which it is nearly allied, can be effectually and cheaply removed only by drains devised for, and[162] devoted to the object. Appropriate deep drains at B B B, for instance, as indicated in the dark vertical lines, are found to do the service of many parallel drains, which as frequently miss, as they hit, those furrows, or 'lips,' in the horizontal out-crop of water-bearing strata which continue to exude wetness after the higher portions are dry.
The moisture in the land, which for clarity I’ve referred to as 'pressure water,' is similar to spring water and can only be effectively and affordably removed through specifically designed drains. Appropriate deep drains at points B B B, as shown by the dark vertical lines, can serve the purpose of many parallel drains, which often fail to reach the furrows or 'lips' in the horizontal layers of water-bearing soil that continue to release moisture after the higher areas have dried out.[162]

Fig. 35.—The vertical dotted lines show the position of parallel drains.
Fig. 35.—The vertical dotted lines indicate where the parallel drains are located.
"A consideration, too, of the varying inclinations of surface, of which instances will frequently occur in the same field, necessitates a departure from uniformity, not in direction only, but in intervals between drains. Take, for instance, the ordinary case of a field, in which a comparatively flat space will intervene between quickly rising ground and the outfall ditch. It is clear that the soak of the hill will pervade the soil of the lower ground, let the system of drainage adopted be what it may; and, therefore, supposing the soil of the hill and flat to be precisely alike, the existence of bottom water in a greater quantity in the lower lands than in the higher, will call for a greater number of drains. It is found, too, that an independent discharge or relief of the water coming from the hill, at B, should always be provided, in order to avoid any impediment by the slower flow of the flatter drains.
A consideration of the different slopes of the land, which will often appear in the same field, requires us to move away from uniformity, not just in direction but also in the spacing of drainage systems. For example, imagine a typical field where there's a relatively flat area between a steep hill and the drainage ditch. It's obvious that the water from the hill will seep into the soil of the lower area, regardless of the drainage system used. Therefore, assuming the soil on the hill and the flat land is exactly the same, the presence of more groundwater in the lower area than in the higher one means we need more drains. It's also important to ensure that there is a separate outlet for the water coming from the hill at point B, to prevent any blockages caused by the slower flow of the flatter drains.

Fig. 36.
Fig. 36.
"Experience shows that, with few exceptions, hollows, or 'slacks,' observable on the surface, as at B B, have a corresponding undulation of subsoil and that any system which does not provide a direct[163] release for water, which would otherwise collect in and draw towards these spots, is imperfect and unsatisfactory. It is found to be much more safe to depend on relief drains, than on the cutting of drains sufficiently deep through the banks, at A A, to gain a fall at a regular inclination.
"Experience shows that, with few exceptions, depressions, or 'slacks,' visible on the surface, like at B B, correspond to a dip in the subsoil. Any system that doesn't offer a direct [163] outlet for water that would otherwise accumulate in these areas is flawed and unsatisfactory. It's found to be much safer to rely on relief drains than to dig drains deep enough through the banks, like at A A, to achieve a consistent slope."
"Still, in spite of experience, we often observe a disregard of these facts, even in works which are otherwise well executed to a depth of four feet, but fettered by methodical rules, and I feel compelled to remark, that it has often occurred to me, when I have observed with what diligent examination the rules of depth and distance have been tested, that if more attention had been paid to the source of injury, and to the mode of securing an effective and permanent discharge of the injurious water, much greater service would be done."
"Still, despite experience, we often notice a disregard for these facts, even in works that are otherwise well done up to a depth of four feet, but constrained by strict rules. I feel the need to point out that it has frequently crossed my mind, when I’ve seen how carefully the rules of depth and distance have been tested, that if more attention had been given to the source of the problem and to how to achieve an effective and lasting discharge of the harmful water, we would have accomplished much greater results."
In conclusion, as to distances, we should advise great caution on the part of beginners in laying out their drains. Draining is too expensive a work to be carelessly or unskillfully done. A mistake in locating drains too far apart, brings a failure to accomplish the end in view. A mistake in placing them too near, involves a great loss of labor and money. Consult, then, those whose experience has given them knowledge, and pay to a professional engineer, or some other skillful person, a small amount for aid, which will probably save ten times as much in the end. We have placed our own drains in porous, though very wet soil, at fifty feet distances, which, in most soils, might be considered extremely wide. We are fully satisfied that they would have drained the land as well at sixty feet, except in a few low places, where they could not be sunk four feet for want of fall.
In conclusion, when it comes to distances, we strongly recommend that beginners exercise great caution when laying out their drains. Draining is too expensive a task to be done carelessly or without skill. If drains are positioned too far apart, the desired outcome won't be achieved. Conversely, placing them too close together results in significant losses of both labor and money. Therefore, consult with those who have the experience and knowledge, and consider hiring a professional engineer or another skilled individual, even if it requires a small fee, as this will likely save you significantly more in the long run. We have placed our own drains in permeable, though very wet soil, fifty feet apart, which, in most types of soil, could be seen as excessively wide. We are fully convinced that they could have drained the land effectively even at sixty feet, except in a few low areas where we couldn't dig four feet deep due to insufficient slope.
In most New England lands that require drainage, we believe that from 40 to 50 feet distances, with four feet depth, will prove sufficient. Upon stiff clays, we have no experience of our own of any value, although we have a field of the stiffest clay, drained last season at 40 feet distances and four feet depth. In England, this would, probably, prove insufficient, and, perhaps, it will prove so here.[164] One thing is certain, that, at present, there is little land in this country that will pay for drainage by hand labor, at the English distances in clay, of 16 or 20 feet. If our powerful Summer's sun will not somehow compensate in part for distance, we must, upon our clays, await the coming of draining plows and steam.
In most areas of New England that need drainage, we think that spacing of 40 to 50 feet with a depth of four feet will be enough. We don’t have personal experience with dense clay, although we have a field of very dense clay that was drained last season at 40 feet spacing and four feet depth. In England, this would probably not be adequate, and it might not work here either.[164] One thing is clear: currently, there isn’t much land in this country that can justify the cost of hand-drainage at the English spacing of 16 or 20 feet in clay. If our strong summer sun doesn’t help to make up for distance, we will have to wait for draining plows and steam technology for our clay.
DEPTH OF DRAINS.
Cheap and temporary expedients in agriculture are the characteristics of us Americans, who have abundance of land, a whole continent to cultivate, and comparatively few hands and small capital with which to do the work. We erect temporary houses and barns and fences, hoping to find time and means at a future day, to reconstruct them in a more thorough manner. We half cultivate our new lands, because land is cheaper than labor; and it pays best for the present, rather to rob our mother earth, than to give her labor for bread.
Cheap and temporary solutions in farming are typical of us Americans, who have plenty of land, a whole continent to farm, and relatively few workers and limited capital to get the job done. We build temporary houses, barns, and fences, hoping to have the time and resources in the future to rebuild them more thoroughly. We partially cultivate our new lands because land is cheaper than labor; for now, it’s more profitable to take from the earth than to work it for our sustenance.
The easy and cheap process in draining, is that into which we naturally fall. It is far easier and cheaper to dig shallow than deep drains, and, therefore, we shall not dig deep unless we see good reason to do so. If, however, we carefully study the subject, it will be manifest that superficial drainage is, in general, the result of superficial knowledge of the subject.
The simple and inexpensive method of draining is the one we tend to use naturally. It's much easier and cheaper to create shallow drains than deep ones, so we won't dig deep unless there's a solid reason to do it. However, if we take the time to study the topic carefully, it will become clear that shallow drainage usually stems from a lack of deeper understanding of the subject.
Thorough-drainage does not belong to pioneer farming, nor to a cheap and temporary system. It involves capital and labor, and demands skill and system. It cannot be patched up, like a brush fence, to answer the purpose, from year to year, but every tile must be placed where it will best perform its office for a generation. In England, the rule and the habit in all things, is thoroughness and permanency; yet the first and greatest mistake there in drainage was shallowness, and it has required years of[165] experiments, and millions of money, to correct that mistake. If we commit the same folly, as we are very likely to do, we cannot claim even the originality of the blunder, and shall be guilty of the folly of pursuing the crooked paths of their exploration, instead of the straight highway which they have now established. To be sure, the controversy as to the depth of drains has by no means ceased in England, but the question is reduced to this, whether the least depth shall be three feet or four; one party contending that for certain kinds of clay, a three-foot drain is as effectual as a four-foot drain, and that the least effectual depth should be used, because it is the cheapest; while the general opinion of the best scientific and practical men in the kingdom, has settled down upon four feet as the minimum depth, where the fall and other circumstances render it practicable. At the same time, all admit that, in many cases, a greater depth than four feet is required by true economy. It may seem, at first, that a controversy, as to one additional foot in a system of drainage, depends upon a very small point; but a little reflection will show it to be worthy of careful consideration. Without going here into a nice calculation, it may be stated generally as an established fact, that the excavation of a ditch four feet deep, costs twice as much as that of a ditch three feet deep. Although this may not seem credible to one who has not considered the point, yet it will become more probable on examination, and very clear, when the actual digging is attempted. Ditches for tiles are always opened widest at top, with a gradual narrowing to near the bottom, where they should barely admit the tile. Now, the addition of a foot to the depth, is not, as it would perhaps at first appear, merely the addition of the lowest and narrowest foot, but rather of the topmost and widest foot. In other words, a four-foot ditch is precisely a three-foot ditch in size and form, with an[166] additional foot on the top of it, and not a three-foot ditch deepened an additional foot.
Thorough drainage isn't part of pioneer farming, nor is it a cheap and temporary solution. It requires capital and labor, along with skill and organization. It can't be cobbled together like a makeshift fence to work for just a year; every tile must be positioned optimally to serve its purpose for a generation. In England, the norm is thoroughness and permanence in all things, yet the initial major mistake in drainage there was making the drains too shallow. It has taken years of[165] experimentation and millions of dollars to fix that error. If we make the same mistake, which is highly likely, we won’t even be original in our blunder; we'll just be foolishly following in their missteps instead of taking the direct route they have now established. Although the debate over the depth of drains is still ongoing in England, it has narrowed down to whether the minimum depth should be three feet or four. One side argues that for certain types of clay, a three-foot drain is just as effective as a four-foot drain, suggesting that the least effective depth should be used since it's cheaper. However, the consensus among leading scientific and practical experts in the country has settled on four feet as the minimum depth when the fall and other conditions make it feasible. At the same time, everyone agrees that in many situations, a depth greater than four feet is necessary for true economic efficiency. It might seem trivial at first to debate an extra foot in a drainage system, but a bit of thought reveals it’s a matter worth careful consideration. Without delving into complex calculations, it's generally accepted that digging a ditch four feet deep costs twice as much as digging one three feet deep. While this may seem unbelievable to someone who hasn't thought about it, it becomes more credible upon inspection and very clear once actual digging begins. Ditches for tiles are always dug widest at the top, gradually narrowing toward the bottom, where they should just fit the tile. So, adding a foot to the depth isn't just adding the lowest and narrowest foot; it's actually adding it to the top of the current structure. In other words, a four-foot ditch is basically a three-foot ditch in size and shape with an additional foot added on top, not just a three-foot ditch that’s been deepened by one foot.
The lowest foot of a four-foot ditch is raised one foot higher, to get it upon the surface, than if the ditch were but three feet deep. In clays, and most other soils, the earth grows harder as we go deeper, and this consideration, in practice, will be found important. Again: the small amount of earth from a three-foot ditch, may lie conveniently on one bank near its edge, while the additional mass from a deeper one must be thrown further; and then is to be added the labor of replacing the additional quantity in filling up.
The bottom of a four-foot ditch is raised one foot higher to reach the surface compared to a three-foot deep ditch. In clay and most other types of soil, the ground tends to become denser as you dig deeper, which is an important factor to keep in mind in practice. Furthermore, the small amount of dirt from a three-foot ditch can easily be piled on one bank close to the edge, while the extra dirt from a deeper ditch has to be thrown farther away; this also adds the effort needed to put back the extra dirt for filling it in.
On the whole, the point may be conceded, that the labor of opening and finishing a four-foot drain is double that of a three-foot drain.
On the whole, it can be acknowledged that the work of digging and completing a four-foot drain is twice that of a three-foot drain.
Without stopping here to estimate carefully the cost of excavation and the cost of tiles, it may be remarked, that, upon almost any estimate, the cost of labor, even in a three-foot drain in this country, yet far exceeds the cost of tiles: but, if we call them equal, then, if the additional foot of depth costs as much as the first three feet, we have the cost of a four-foot tile-drain fifty per cent. more than that of a three-foot drain. In other words, 200 rods of four-foot drain will cost just as much as 300 rods of three-foot drain. This is, probably, as nearly accurate as any general estimate that can be made at present. The principles upon which the calculations depend, having been thus suggested, it will not be difficult to vary them so as to apply them to the varying prices of labor and tiles, and to the use of the plow or other implements propelled by animals or steam, when applied to drainage in our country.
Without taking the time to carefully calculate the excavation costs and the cost of tiles, it's important to note that, in almost any case, the cost of labor—even for a three-foot drain in this country—far exceeds the cost of the tiles. However, if we consider them equal, then if the extra foot of depth costs as much as the first three feet, the price of a four-foot tile drain will be fifty percent more than that of a three-foot drain. In simpler terms, 200 rods of a four-foot drain will cost the same as 300 rods of a three-foot drain. This is probably as accurate as any general estimate we can make at the moment. With the principles behind these calculations laid out, it won't be difficult to adjust them to accommodate the changing prices of labor and tiles, as well as the use of a plow or other tools powered by animals or steam when dealing with drainage in our country.
The earliest experiments in thorough-drainage, in England, were at very small depths, two feet being, for a time, considered very deep, and large tracts were underlaid[167] with tiles at a depth of eighteen, and even twelve inches. It is said, that 10,000 miles of drains, two feet deep and less, were laid in Scotland before it was found that this depth was not sufficient. Of course, the land thus treated was relieved of much water, and experimenters were often much gratified with their success; but it may be safely said now, that there is no advocate known to the public, in England, for a system of drainage of less than three feet depth, and no one advocates a system of drainage of less than four feet deep, except upon some peculiar clays.
The earliest experiments in thorough drainage in England were conducted at very shallow depths, with two feet being considered quite deep at the time. Large areas were drained with tiles placed at depths of eighteen and even twelve inches. It’s said that 10,000 miles of drains, two feet deep or shallower, were installed in Scotland before it became clear that this depth was inadequate. Naturally, the land treated this way was relieved of a lot of water, and experimenters often felt satisfied with their results. However, it's safe to say now that no public advocate in England supports a drainage system shallower than three feet, and no one recommends anything less than four feet deep, except in specific cases involving certain types of clay.
The general principle seems well established, that depth will compensate for width; or, in other words, that the deeper the drain, the farther it will draw. This principle, generally correct, is questioned when applied to peculiar clays only. As to them, all that is claimed is, that it is more economical to make the drains but three feet, because they must, even if deep, be near together—nobody doubting, that if four feet deep or more, and near enough, they will drain the land.
The general idea is pretty clear: depth makes up for width; in other words, the deeper the drain, the more it will pull water away. This idea is usually correct but is challenged when it comes to certain types of clay. For these kinds of clay, the argument is that it’s more cost-effective to make the drains only three feet deep because they need to be placed close together anyway—everyone agrees that if they are four feet deep or more and spaced closely enough, they will effectively drain the land.
In speaking of clay soil, it should always be borne in mind, that clay is merely a relative term in agriculture. "A clay in Scotland," says Mr. Pusey, "would be a loam in the South of England." Professor Mapes, of our own country, in the Working Farmer, says, "We are convinced, that, with thorough subsoil plowing, no clay soil exists in this country which might not be underdrained to a depth of four feet with advantage."
In discussing clay soil, it’s important to remember that clay is just a relative term in agriculture. "A clay in Scotland," Mr. Pusey states, "would be considered a loam in the South of England." Professor Mapes, from our own country, mentions in the Working Farmer, "We believe that with proper subsoil plowing, there isn't a clay soil in this country that couldn’t benefit from being underdrained to a depth of four feet."
There can be no doubt, that, with four-foot drains at proper distances, all soils, except some peculiar clays, may be drained, even without reference to the changes produced in the mechanical structure of soil by the operation. There is no doubt, however, that all soils are, by the admission of air, which must always take the place of the water drawn out, and by the percolation of water through them, rendered gradually more porous. Added to this,[168] the subsoil plow, which will be the follower of drainage, will break up the soil to considerable depth, and thus make it more permeable to moisture. But there is still another and more effective aid which Nature affords to the land-drainer, upon what might be otherwise impracticable clays.
There’s no doubt that with four-foot drains placed at the right distances, all types of soil, except for some unique clays, can be drained, even without considering the changes in the soil's mechanical structure from the process. However, it’s clear that all soils become gradually more porous due to the air that replaces the water being removed and the percolation of water through them. Additionally,[168] the subsoil plow, which follows the drainage, will break up the soil to a significant depth, making it more permeable to moisture. But there’s another and even more effective benefit that Nature provides to the land-drainer, particularly for what might otherwise be unmanageable clays.
This topic deserves a careful and distinct consideration, which it will receive under the title of "Drainage of Stiff Clays."
This topic deserves careful and thorough consideration, which it will get under the title of "Drainage of Stiff Clays."
In discussing the subject of the depth of drains, we are not unmindful of the fact that, in this country, the leaders in the drainage movement, especially Messrs. Delafield, Yeomans, and Johnston, of New York, have achieved their truly striking results, by the use of tiles laid at from two and a half to three feet depth. On the "Premium Farm" of R. J. Swan, of Rose Hill, near Geneva, it is stated that there are sixty-one miles of under-drains, laid from two and a half to three feet deep. That these lands thus drained have been changed in their character, from cold, wet, and unproductive wastes, in many cases, to fertile and productive fields of corn and wheat, sufficiently appears. Indeed, we all know of fields drained only with stone drains two feet deep, that have been reclaimed from wild grasses and rushes into excellent mowing fields. In England and in Scotland, as we have seen, thousands of miles of shallow drains were laid, and were for years quite satisfactory. These facts speak loudly in favor of drainage in general. The fact that shoal drains produce results so striking, is a stumbling-block in the progress of a more thorough system. It may seem like presumption to say to those to whom we are so much indebted for their public spirit, as well as private enterprise, that they have not drained deep enough for the greatest advantage in the end. It would seem that they should know their own farms and their own results better than others. We[169] propose to state, with all fairness, the results of their experiments, and to detract nothing from the credit which is due to the pioneers in a great work.
In talking about the depth of drains, we recognize that in this country, the leaders in drainage, especially Messrs. Delafield, Yeomans, and Johnston from New York, have achieved impressive results by using tiles installed at depths of two and a half to three feet. On R. J. Swan's "Premium Farm" in Rose Hill, near Geneva, it's reported that there are sixty-one miles of under-drains set at two and a half to three feet deep. It’s clear that these drained lands have been transformed from cold, wet, unproductive areas into fertile, productive fields for corn and wheat. We all know about fields that were drained only with stone drains at two feet deep that have been converted from wild grasses and rushes into excellent mowing fields. In England and Scotland, as we've noted, thousands of miles of shallow drains were laid and remained quite satisfactory for years. These facts strongly support the importance of drainage in general. The success of shallow drains presents a challenge to the development of a more thorough system. It may seem presumptuous to tell those we owe so much for their public spirit and private initiative that they haven't drained deep enough to maximize benefits. They likely know their own farms and outcomes better than anyone else. We[169] aim to fairly present the results of their experiments and give due credit to the pioneers of this important work.
We cannot, however, against the overwhelming weight of authority, and against the reasons for deeper drainage, which, to us, seem so satisfactory, conclude, that even three feet is, in general, deep enough for under-drains. Three-foot drains will produce striking results on almost any wet lands, but four-foot drains will be more secure and durable, will give wider feeding-grounds to the roots, better filter the percolating water, warm and dry the land earlier in Spring, furnish a larger reservoir for heavy rains, and, indeed, more effectually perform every office of drains.
We can't ignore the strong evidence and the reasons for deeper drainage, which seem so convincing to us, and conclude that even three feet is generally deep enough for under-drains. Three-foot drains will show significant results in almost any wetland, but four-foot drains will be safer and more durable. They will provide a larger feeding area for the roots, better filter the water that seeps through, warm and dry the land earlier in spring, act as a bigger reservoir for heavy rains, and effectively perform all the functions of drains.
In reviewing our somewhat minute discussion of this essential point—the proper depth of drains—certain propositions may be laid down with considerable assurance.
In looking over our detailed discussion about this important point—the right depth for drains—we can confidently establish a few main ideas.
TILES MUST BE LAID BELOW THE REACH OF THE SUBSOIL PLOW.
Let no man imagine that he shall never use the subsoil plow; for so surely as he has become already so much alive to improvement, as to thorough-drain, so surely will he next complete the work thus begun, by subsoiling his land.
Let no one think that they will never need to use the subsoil plow; for just as they have already become aware of the need for improvement through thorough draining, they will definitely continue this journey by subsoiling their land.
The subsoil plow follows in the furrow of another plow, and if the forward plow turn a furrow one foot deep, the subsoil may be run two feet more, making three feet in all. Ordinarily, the subsoil plow is run only to the depth of 18 or 20 inches; but if the intention were to run it no deeper than that, it would be liable to dip much deeper occasionally, as it came suddenly upon the soft places above the drains. The tiles should lie far enough below the deepest path of the subsoil plow, not to be at all disturbed by its pressure in passing over the[170] drains. It is by no means improbable that fields that have already been drained in this country, may be, in the lifetime of their present occupants, plowed and subsoiled by means of steam-power, and stirred to as great a depth as shall be found at all desirable. But, in the present mode of using the subsoil plow on land free from stones, a depth less than three and a half or four feet would hardly be safe for the depth of tile-drains.
The subsoil plow follows in the path of another plow, and if the first plow turns a furrow one foot deep, the subsoil plow can go down two feet more, making a total of three feet. Typically, the subsoil plow is used to a depth of 18 or 20 inches; however, if it were only meant to go that deep, it might occasionally dip much deeper when it hits softer spots above the drains. The tiles should be placed deep enough below the subsoil plow's lowest path so that they aren't disturbed by its weight as it passes over the[170] drains. It's quite possible that fields already drained in this country may, during the time of their current owners, be plowed and subsoiled with steam power, and stirred to as great a depth as is considered desirable. However, with the current practice of using the subsoil plow on stone-free land, a depth of less than three and a half or four feet wouldn't be safe for the depth of tile drains.
TILES MUST BE LAID BELOW FROST.
This is a point upon which we must decide for our selves. There is no country where drainage is practiced, where the thermometer sinks, as in almost every Winter it does in New England, to 20° below zero (Fahrenheit).
This is a point we need to decide for ourselves. There is no country where drainage is practiced that experiences temperatures as low as they do in New England, where the thermometer frequently drops to 20° below zero (Fahrenheit) every winter.
All writers seem to assume that tile-drains must be injured by frost. What the effect of frost upon them is supposed to be, does not seem very clear. If filled with water, and frozen, they must, of course, burst by the expansion of the water in freezing; but it would probably rarely happen, that drainage-water, running in cold weather, could come from other than deep sources, and it must then be considerably above the freezing point. Still; we know that aqueduct pipes do freeze at considerable depths, though supplied from deep springs. Neither these nor gas-pipes are, in our New England towns, safe below frost, unless laid four feet below the surface; and instances occur where they freeze at a much greater depth, usually, however, under the beaten paths of streets, or in exposed positions, where the snow is blown away. In such places, the earth sometimes freezes solid to the depth of even six feet. It will be suggested at once that our fields, and especially our wet lands, do not freeze so deep, and this is true; but it must be borne in mind, that the very reason why our wet lands do not freeze deeper, may[171] be, that they are filled with the very spring-water which makes them cold in Summer, indeed, but is warmer than the air in Winter, and so keeps out the frost. Drained lands will freeze deeper than undrained lands, and the farmer must be vigilant upon this point, or he may have his work ruined in a single Winter.
All writers seem to believe that tile drains are likely to be damaged by frost. The exact effect of frost on them isn't very clear. If they're filled with water and freeze, they will burst due to the expansion of the ice; however, it’s unlikely that drainage water flowing in cold weather comes from other than deep sources, so it must be well above freezing. Still, we know that aqueduct pipes can freeze at considerable depths, even when supplied by deep springs. In our New England towns, neither these nor gas pipes are safe from frost unless buried four feet below the surface; there are times when they freeze even deeper, usually under the worn paths of streets or in exposed areas where snow has been blown away. In those places, the ground can freeze solid up to six feet deep. It may be noted that our fields, especially the wet ones, do not freeze as deeply, and that's true; however, it’s important to remember that the reason our wet lands don’t freeze deeper may be because they’re filled with spring water that keeps them cold in summer but is warmer than the air in winter, which prevents frost. Drained lands will freeze deeper than undrained lands, and farmers need to be careful about this; otherwise, they could lose their work in just one winter.
We are aware, that upon this, as every other point, ascertained facts may seem strangely to conflict. In the town of Lancaster, among the mountains in the coldest part of New Hampshire, many of the houses and barns of the village are supplied with water brought in aqueducts from the hills. We observed that the logs which form the conduit are, in many places, exposed to view on the surface of the ground, sometimes partly covered with earth, but generally very little protected. There has not been a Winter, perhaps in a half century, when the thermometer has not at times been 10° below Zero, and often it is even lower than that. Upon particular inquiry, we ascertained that very little inconvenience is experienced there from the freezing of the pipes. The water is drawn from deep springs in the mountains, and fills the pipes of from one to two-inch bore, passing usually not more than one or two hundred rods before it is discharged, and its warmth is sufficient, with the help of its usual snow covering, to protect it from the frost.
We know that, just like with every other topic, established facts can seem to clash in strange ways. In the town of Lancaster, located in the coldest part of New Hampshire among the mountains, many houses and barns get their water from aqueducts that bring it down from the hills. We noticed that the logs making up the aqueduct are often visible on the ground's surface, sometimes partially buried in dirt, but usually only slightly covered. There hasn’t been a winter in perhaps fifty years when the temperature hasn’t dropped to 10° below zero at times, and often it goes even lower. After asking around, we found out that freezing pipes don’t cause much trouble there. The water comes from deep springs in the mountains and flows through pipes that are one to two inches wide, usually traveling only one or two hundred rods before being released, and its warmth, combined with the usual snow cover, keeps it safe from freezing.
We have upon our own premises an aqueduct, which supplies a cattle-yard, which has never been covered more than two feet deep, and has never frozen in the nine years of its use. We should not, therefore, apprehend much danger from the freezing of pipes, even at shallow depths, if they carry all the Winter a considerable stream of spring-water; but in pipes which take merely the surface water that passes into them by percolation, we should expect little or no aid from the water in preventing frost. The water filtering downward in Winter must be nearly[172] at the freezing point; and the pipes may be filled with solid ice, by the freezing of a very small quantity as it enters them.
We have an aqueduct on our property that feeds a cattle yard, which has never been more than two feet deep and hasn’t frozen in the nine years we've used it. Therefore, we shouldn’t worry too much about the pipes freezing, even at shallow depths, as long as they carry a good flow of spring water throughout the winter. However, in pipes that only draw surface water through percolation, we don't expect much help from the water in preventing frost. The water filtering down in winter is likely to be close to the freezing point, and just a small amount of this entering the pipes could cause them to fill with solid ice.
Neither hard-burnt bricks nor hard-burnt tiles will crumble by mere exposure to the Winter weather above ground, though soft bricks or tiles will scarcely endure a single hard frost. Too much stress cannot be laid upon the importance of using hard-burnt tiles only, as the failure of a single tile may work extensive mischief. Writers seem to assume, that the freezing of the ground about the drains will displace the tiles, and so destroy their continuity, and this may be so; though we find no evidence, perhaps, that at three or four feet, there is any disturbance of the soil by freezing. We dig into clay, or into our strong subsoils, and find the earth, at three feet deep, as solid and undisturbed as at twice that depth, and no indication that the frost has touched it, though it has felt the grip of his icy fingers every year since the Flood. With these suggestions for warning and for encouragement, the subject must be left to the sound judgment of the farmer or engineer upon each farm, to make the matter so safe, that the owner need not have an anxious thought, as he wakes in a howling Winter night, lest his drains should be freezing.
Neither hard-burnt bricks nor hard-burnt tiles will crumble just from being out in the winter weather, while soft bricks or tiles will barely survive a single hard frost. It's crucial to use only hard-burnt tiles, as the failure of just one tile can cause significant problems. Writers seem to think that the freezing of the ground around the drains will shift the tiles and disrupt their continuity, and that might be true; however, we find no evidence that the soil at three or four feet is disturbed by freezing. When we dig into clay or strong subsoils, the earth at three feet deep is just as solid and undisturbed as it is at six feet deep, with no sign that frost has affected it, even though it has experienced freezing temperatures every year since the Flood. With these warnings and encouragements in mind, we must leave the decision to the good judgment of the farmer or engineer on each farm to ensure the matter is safe enough that the owner doesn't worry while waking up on a howling winter night about their drains freezing.
Finally, in view of the various considerations that have been, suggested, as well as of the almost uniform authority of the ablest writers and practical men, it is safe to conclude, that, in general, in this country, wherever sufficient outfall can be had, four feet above the top of the tiles should be the minimum depth of drains.
Finally, considering the various points that have been raised, along with the consistent opinions of the most skilled writers and professionals, it's reasonable to conclude that, generally, in this country, wherever there is adequate drainage, the minimum depth of drains should be four feet above the top of the tiles.
CHAPTER VIII[173]
ARRANGEMENT OF DRAINS.
Necessity of System.—What Fall is Necessary.—American Examples.—Outlets.—Wells and Relief-Pipes.—Peep holes.—How to secure Outlets.—Gate to Exclude Back-Water.—Gratings and Screens to keep out Frogs, Snakes, Moles, &c.—Mains, Submains, and Minors, how placed.—Capacity of Pipes.—Mains of Two Tiles.—Junction of Drains.—Effect of Curves and Angles on Currents.—Branch Pipes.—Draining into Wells or Swallow Holes.—Letter from Mr. Denton.
Necessity of System.—What Fall is Necessary.—American Examples.—Outlets.—Wells and Relief-Pipes.—Peep holes.—How to secure Outlets.—Gate to Exclude Back-Water.—Gratings and Screens to keep out Frogs, Snakes, Moles, etc.—Mains, Submains, and Minors, how placed.—Capacity of Pipes.—Mains of Two Tiles.—Junction of Drains.—Effect of Curves and Angles on Currents.—Branch Pipes.—Draining into Wells or Swallow Holes.—Letter from Mr. Denton.
As every act is, or should be, a part of a great plan of life, so every stake that is set, and every line laid in the field, should have relation not only to general principles, but also to some comprehensive plan of operations.
As every action is, or should be, part of a bigger life plan, every stake that's set and every line laid in the field should connect not just to general principles, but also to a broader plan of operations.
Assuming, then, that the principles advocated in this treatise are adopted as to the details, that the depth preferred is not less than four feet—that the direction preferred is up and down the slope—that the distance apart may range from fifteen to sixty feet, and more in some cases, according to the depth of drains and the nature of the soil—that no tiles smaller than one and a half inch bore will be used, and none less than two inches except for the first one hundred yards, there still remains the application of all these principles to the particular work in hand. With the hope of assisting the deliberations of the farmer on this point, some additional suggestions will be made under appropriate heads.
Assuming that the principles outlined in this document are followed in detail, with a preferred depth of at least four feet, a direction that's straight up and down the slope, and spacing between drains ranging from fifteen to sixty feet, or more depending on the depth of the drains and the type of soil, and ensuring that no tiles smaller than one and a half inches in diameter are used, and none smaller than two inches except for the first one hundred yards, there still needs to be a practical application of all these principles to the specific work at hand. To help the farmer with this, some additional suggestions will be provided under the relevant headings.
ARRANGEMENT MUST HAVE REFERENCE TO SYSTEM.
The absolute necessity of some regularity of plan in our work, must be manifest. Without system, we can never,[174] in the outset, estimate the cost of our operation; we can never proportion our tiles to the quantity of water that will pass through them; we can never find the drains afterwards, or form a correct opinion of the cause of any failure that may await us.
The obvious need for some regularity in our planning is clear. Without a system, we can never, [174] at the beginning, estimate the cost of our project; we can never match our materials to the amount of water that will flow through them; we can never locate the drains later on, or accurately determine the cause of any problems that might arise.
We prefer, in general, where practicable, parallel lines for our minor drains, at right angles with the mains, because this is the simplest and most systematic arrangement; but the natural ravines or water-courses in fields, seldom run parallel with each other, or at right angles with the slope of the hills, so that regular work like this, can rarely be accomplished.
We generally prefer, whenever possible, to run our minor drains in parallel lines at right angles to the main drains, as this is the simplest and most organized setup. However, the natural ravines or water-courses in fields rarely run parallel to each other or at right angles to the hills' slope, making it difficult to achieve this regular layout.
If the earth were constructed of regular slopes, or plains of uniform character, we could easily apply to it all our rules; but, broken as it is into hills and valleys, filled with stones here, with a bank of clay there, and a sand-pit close by, we are obliged to sacrifice to general convenience, often, some special abstract rule.
If the earth were made up of smooth slopes or flat surfaces, we could easily apply all our principles to it. But since it’s uneven with hills and valleys, scattered with rocks here, a clay bank there, and a sand pit nearby, we often have to compromise some specific theoretical rule for the sake of practicality.
We prefer to run drains up and down the slope; but if the field be filled with undulations, or hills with various slopes, we may often find it expedient, for the sake of system, to vary this course.
We prefer to run drains up and down the slope; but if the field has bumps or hills with different angles, we may often find it helpful, for the sake of organization, to change this approach.
If the question were only as to one single drain, we could adjust it so as to conform to our perfect ideal; but as each drain is, as it were, an artery in a complicated system, which must run through and affect every part of it, all must be located with reference to every other, and to the general effect.
If the issue was just about one single drain, we could easily make it fit our perfect standard; however, since each drain acts like an artery in a complex system that influences every part of it, all must be positioned in relation to one another and to the overall impact.
Keeping in mind, then, the importance of some regular system that shall include the whole field of operation, the work should be laid out, with as near a conformity to established principles as circumstances will permit.
Keeping in mind the importance of having a consistent system that covers the entire area of work, the tasks should be organized as closely as possible to established principles, depending on the situation.
ARRANGEMENT MUST HAVE REFERENCE TO THE FALL.
In considering what fall is necessary, and what is desirable, we have seen, that although a very slight inclination[175] may carry off water, yet a proportionably larger drain is necessary as the fall decreases, because the water runs slower.
In thinking about what slope is essential and what is preferred, we have observed that even a small incline[175] can move water, but a comparably larger drain is required as the slope gets shallower, since the water flows more slowly.
"It is surprising," says Stephens, "what a small descent is required for the flow of water in a well-constructed duct. People frequently complain that they cannot find sufficient fall to carry off the water from the drains. There are few situations where a sufficient fall cannot be found if due pains are exercised. It has been found in practice, that a water-course thirty feet wide and six feet deep, giving a transverse sectional area of one hundred and eighty square feet, will discharge three hundred cubic yards of water per minute, and will flow at the rate of one mile per hour, with a fall of no more than six inches per mile."
"It’s surprising," says Stephens, "how little descent is needed for water to flow through a well-built duct. People often complain that they can’t find enough slope to drain the water away. There are very few situations where you can’t find a sufficient slope if you really put in the effort. In practice, it has been shown that a watercourse thirty feet wide and six feet deep, with a cross-sectional area of one hundred and eighty square feet, can discharge three hundred cubic yards of water per minute and flow at a speed of one mile per hour, with a drop of no more than six inches per mile."
Messrs. Shedd and Edson, of Boston, have superintended some drainage works in Milton, Mass., where, after obtaining permission to drain through the land of an adjacent owner, not interested in the operation, they could obtain but three inches fall in one hundred feet, or a half inch to the rod, for three quarters of a mile, and this only by blasting the ledges at the outlet. This fall, however, proves sufficient for perfect drainage, and by their skill, a very unhealthful swamp has been rendered fit for gardens and building-lots. In another instance, in Dorchester, Mass., Mr. Shedd informs us that in one thousand feet, they could obtain only a fall of two inches for their main, and this, by nice adjustment, he expects to make sufficient. In another instance, he has found a fall of two and a half inches in one hundred feet, in an open paved drain to be effectual.
Messrs. Shedd and Edson, from Boston, have overseen some drainage projects in Milton, Mass. After getting permission to drain through the land of a neighboring owner, who wasn’t involved in the project, they could achieve only three inches of drop over one hundred feet, or a half inch per rod, for three quarters of a mile. This was possible only by blasting the rock at the outlet. However, this drop has proven sufficient for effective drainage, and thanks to their expertise, a very unhealthy swamp has been transformed into suitable land for gardens and building lots. In another case in Dorchester, Mass., Mr. Shedd tells us that they could achieve only a two-inch drop over a thousand feet for their main line, but with careful adjustment, he expects that to be adequate. In yet another case, he found a drop of two and a half inches over one hundred feet in an open paved drain to be effective.
It is certainly advisable always to divide the fall as even as possible throughout the drains, yet this will be found a difficult rule to follow. Very often we have a space of nearly level ground to pass through to our outfall; and, usually, the mains, in order that the minor drains may be carried into them from both sides, must follow up the natural valleys in the field, thus controlling, in a great measure,[176] our choice as to the fall. We are, in fact, often compelled to use the natural fall nearly as we find it.
It’s definitely a good idea to try to keep the fall as even as possible throughout the drains, but this can be quite a challenge. Often, we have to deal with nearly flat ground before reaching our outfall, and usually, the main lines need to follow the natural valleys in the field so that smaller drains can connect from both sides. This really limits our options for the fall. In many cases, we have to work with the natural fall as we find it.
It is thought advisable to have the mains from three to six inches lower than the drains discharging into them, so that there may be no obstruction in the minor drains by the backing up of water, and the consequent deposition of sand or other obstructing substances. Wherever one stream flows into another, there must be more or less interruption of the course of each. If the water from the minors enters the main with a quick fall, the danger of obstruction in the minor, at least, is much lessened. A frequent cause of partial failure of drains, is their not having been laid with a regular inclination. If, instead of a gradual and uniform fall, there should be a slight rising in the bed of a drain, the descending water will be interrupted there till it accumulate so high as to be above the level of the rising. At this point, therefore, the water must have a tendency to press out of the drains, and will deposit whatever particles of sand or other earthy matter it may bring down.
It’s recommended to have the mains positioned three to six inches lower than the drains flowing into them so that there are no blockages in the minor drains caused by water backing up, which can lead to the accumulation of sand or other debris. Whenever one stream joins another, it disrupts the flow of each to some extent. If the water from the minor drains enters the main with a steep drop, the risk of blockages in the minors is significantly reduced. A common reason for partial drain failures is that they haven’t been installed with a consistent slope. If there is a slight rise in the bottom of a drain instead of a steady, gradual decline, the flowing water will be held back until it builds up high enough to move past the rise. At this point, the water tends to push out of the drains and can deposit any sand or earth particles it carries.
Drains must, therefore, be so arranged, that in cutting them, their beds may be as nearly as possible, straight, or, at least, have a constant, if not a regular and equal fall.
Drains must be arranged so that when cutting them, their beds are as straight as possible, or at least have a consistent, if not regular and equal, slope.
ARRANGEMENT MUST HAVE REFERENCE TO THE OUTLET.
All agree that it is best to have but few general outlets. "In the whole process of draining," says an engineer of experience, "there is nothing so desirable as permanent and substantial work at the point of discharge." The outlet is the place, of all others, where obstruction is most likely to occur. Everywhere else the work is protected by the earth above it, but here it is exposed to the action of frost, to cattle, to mischievous boys, to reptiles, as well as to the obstructing deposits which are discharged from the drains themselves. In regular work, under the direction[177] of engineers, iron pipes, with swing gratings set in masonry, are used, to protect permanently this important part of the system of drainage.
Everyone agrees that it's best to have just a few main outlets. "In the entire draining process," says an experienced engineer, "there's nothing more important than having solid and lasting work at the discharge point." The outlet is the place where blockages are most likely to happen. Everywhere else, the work is shielded by the earth above it, but here it’s vulnerable to frost, livestock, troublesome kids, reptiles, and the debris that comes from the drains themselves. In standard operations, under the guidance[177] of engineers, iron pipes with swing grates built into masonry are used to permanently safeguard this crucial part of the drainage system.
It may often be convenient to run parallel drains down a slope, bringing each out into an open ditch, or at the bottom of some bank, thus making a separate outlet for each. This practice, however, is strongly deprecated. These numerous outlets cannot be well protected without great cost; they will be forgotten, or, at least, neglected, and the work will fail.
It can often be convenient to run parallel drains down a slope, letting each one empty into an open ditch or at the bottom of a bank, creating a separate outlet for each. However, this approach is highly discouraged. These many outlets cannot be properly maintained without significant expense; they will be overlooked or, at the very least, neglected, leading to failure of the work.
Regarding this point, of few and well-secured outlets, as of great importance, the arrangement of all the drains must have reference to it. When drains are brought down a slope, as just suggested, let them, instead of discharging separately, be crossed, near the foot of the slope, by a sub-main running a little diagonally so as to secure sufficient fall, and so carried into a main, or discharged at a single outlet.
Regarding this point about having a limited number of secure outlets, which is very important, the layout of all the drains should consider this. When drains are sloped down, as suggested, they should not discharge separately. Instead, they should cross near the bottom of the slope with a sub-main running slightly diagonally to ensure adequate flow, and then connect to a main drain or be discharged at a single outlet.
It may be objected, that by thus uniting the whole system, and discharging the water at one point, there may be difficulty in ascertaining by inspection, whether any of the drains are obstructed, or whether all are performing their appropriate work. There is prudence and good sense in this suggestion, and the objection may be obviated by placing wells, or "peep-holes," at proper intervals, in which the flow of the water at various points may be observed. On the subject of wells and peep-holes, the reader will find in another chapter a more particular description of their construction and usefulness.
It might be argued that by uniting the entire system and discharging the water at a single point, it could be hard to tell, just by looking, whether any of the drains are blocked or if they are all functioning properly. This suggestion has merit, and the concern can be addressed by installing wells or "peep-holes" at suitable intervals, allowing for the observation of water flow at different points. The reader will find a more detailed description of how to construct and use wells and peep-holes in another chapter.
The position of the outlet must, evidently, be at a point sufficiently low to receive all the water of the field; or, in other words, it must be the lowest point of the work. It will be fortunate, too, if the outlet can be at the same time high enough to be at all times above the back-water of the stream, or pond, or marsh, into which it[178] empties; and high enough, too, to be protected by solid earth about it. In any case, great care should be taken to make the outlet secure and permanent. The process of thorough-drainage is expensive, and will only repay cost, upon the idea that it is permanent—that once well done, it is done forever. The tiles may be expected to operate well, for a lifetime; and the outlet, the only exposed portion of the work, should be constructed to endure as long as the rest.
The outlet needs to be positioned low enough to collect all the water from the field, meaning it should be the lowest point of the system. It would be ideal if the outlet is also high enough to stay above the backwater from the stream, pond, or marsh it drains into, and elevated enough to be protected by solid ground around it. Regardless, it's essential to ensure the outlet is secure and built to last. The process of thorough drainage is costly and should only be undertaken with the expectation of permanence—once done correctly, it should last forever. The tiles are expected to function well for a lifetime, and since the outlet is the only exposed part of the system, it must be built to last as long as everything else.
It is true that this portion of the work may be reached and repaired more conveniently than the tiles themselves; but it must be remembered that the decay of the outlet obstructs the flow of the water, produces a general stagnation throughout the drains, and so may cause their permanent obstruction at various points, hard to be ascertained, and difficult to be reached. Considering our liability to neglect such things as perish by a gradual decay, as well as the many accidental injuries to which the outlet is exposed, there is no security but in a solid and permanent structure at the first.
It is true that this part of the system can be accessed and fixed more easily than the tiles themselves; however, we must keep in mind that the deterioration of the outlet blocks the flow of water, creates overall stagnation in the drains, and may lead to permanent blockages at various points that are hard to identify and challenging to access. Given our tendency to overlook things that deteriorate slowly, along with the many accidental damages the outlet may face, the only guarantee is having a strong and lasting structure from the start.
To illustrate the importance attached to this point in England, as well as to indicate the best mode of securing the outlet, the drawings below have been taken from a pamphlet by Mr. Denton. Fig. 37 represents the mode of constructing the common small outlets of field drainage.
To show how important this point is in England, and to suggest the best way to secure the outlet, the drawings below are taken from a pamphlet by Mr. Denton. Fig. 37 illustrates how to build the typical small outlets for field drainage.

Fig. 37.—Small Outlet.
Fig. 37.—Small Outlet.
The distinguished engineer, of whose labors we have so[179] freely availed ourselves, remarks as follows upon the subject:
The esteemed engineer, whose work we have so[179] readily utilized, comments as follows on the topic:
"Too many outlets are objectionable, on account of the labor of their maintenance: too few are objectionable, because they can only exist where there are mains of excessive length. A limit of twenty acres to an outlet, resulting in an average of, perhaps, fourteen acres, will appear, by the practices of the best drainers, to be about the proper thing. If a shilling an acre is reserved for fixing the outlets, which should be iron pipes, with swing gratings, in masonry, very substantial work may be done."
"Having too many outlets is a problem because of the work required to maintain them; having too few is also an issue since they can only operate where the main lines are excessively long. A limit of twenty acres per outlet, which averages to about fourteen acres, seems to be about right based on the methods used by the best drainers. If we set aside a shilling per acre for installing the outlets, which should be iron pipes with swing grates in solid masonry, we can achieve some very durable work."

Fig. 38.—Large Outlet.
Fig. 38.—Large Outlet.

Fig. 39.—Large Outlet.
Fig. 39.—Big Outlet.
It is almost essential to the efficiency of drains, that there be fall enough beyond the outlet to allow of the quick flow of the water discharged. At the outlet, must be deposited whatever earth is brought down by the drains; and, in many cases, the outlet must be at a swamp or pond. If no decided fall can be obtained at the outlet,[180] there must be care to provide and keep an open ditch or passage, so that the drainage-water may not be dammed back in the drains. It is advised, even, to follow down the bank of a stream or river, so as to obtain sufficient fall, rather than to have the outlet flooded, or back-water in the drains. Still, there may be cases where it will be impossible to have an outlet that shall be always above the level of the river or pond which may receive the drainage water. If the outlet must be so situated as to be at times overflowed, great care should be taken to excavate a place at the outlet, into which any deposits brought down by the drain, may fall. If the outlet be level with the ground beyond it, the smallest quantity of earth will operate as a dam to keep back the water. Therefore, at the outlet, in such cases, a small well of brick or stonework should be constructed, into which the water should pour. There, even if the water stand above the outlet,[181] will be deposited the earth brought along in the drain. This well must at times, when the water is low, be cleared of its contents, and kept ready for its work.
It’s almost essential for drains to have enough slope beyond the outlet to allow for quick water flow. At the outlet, any soil that the drains carry down must be deposited, and in many cases, the outlet needs to be located at a swamp or pond. If it’s not possible to achieve a significant slope at the outlet,[180] care must be taken to ensure there’s an open ditch or channel, so the drainage water isn’t backed up into the drains. It's even recommended to follow the edge of a stream or river to gain enough slope instead of risking the outlet getting flooded, or having back-water in the drains. However, there may be situations where it’s impossible to have an outlet that’s always above the level of the river or pond receiving the drainage water. If the outlet might sometimes be submerged, it’s crucial to dig a spot at the outlet where any debris carried down by the drain can fall. If the outlet is level with the surrounding ground, even a small amount of soil can block the water flow. Therefore, in such cases, it’s advisable to construct a small well out of bricks or stones at the outlet, where the water can flow into. This way, even if the water level rises above the outlet,[181] the soil carried by the drain will settle there. This well must be cleaned out when the water level is low, so it’s ready for use.
The effect of back-water in drains cannot ordinarily be injurious, except as it raises the water higher in the land, and occasions deposits of earthy matter, and so obstructs the drains. We have in mind now, the common case of water temporarily raised, by Winter flowage or by Summer freshets.
The impact of backwater in drains usually isn't harmful, except that it raises the water level in the surrounding land and causes deposits of soil, which can block the drains. We're thinking of the typical situation where water is temporarily raised by winter flooding or summer rainstorms.
It should be remembered that even when the outlet is under water, if there is any current in the stream into which the drain empties, there must be some current in the drain also; and even if the drain discharge into a still pond, there must be a current greater or less, as water from a level higher than the surface of the pond, presses into the drains. Generally, then, under the most unfavorable circumstances, we may expect to have some flow of water through the pipes, and rarely an utter stagnation. If, then, the tiles be carefully laid, so as to admit only well-filtered water, there can be but little deposit in the drain; and a temporary stagnation, even, will not injure them, and a trifling flow will keep them clean. Much will depend, as to the obstruction of drains, in this, and indeed in all cases, upon the internal smoothness, and upon the nice adjustment of the pipes. In case of the drainage of marshes, and other lands subject to sudden flood, a flap, or gate, is used to exclude the water of flowage, until counterbalanced by the drainage-water in the pipes.
It should be noted that even when the outlet is underwater, if there is any current in the stream where the drain leads, there will still be some current in the drain itself; and even if the drain empties into a calm pond, there will be a current, whether weak or strong, because water from a higher level than the pond's surface pushes into the drains. Generally, under the least favorable conditions, we can expect some flow of water through the pipes, and very rarely complete stagnation. If the tiles are laid carefully to only allow well-filtered water in, there should be very little buildup in the drain; and even temporary stagnation won't harm them, while a small flow will keep them clean. Much will depend on the smoothness of the inside and the precise alignment of the pipes regarding blockages in drains. For draining marshes and other areas prone to sudden flooding, a flap or gate is used to keep out flooding water until it’s balanced by the water being drained through the pipes.

Fig. 40.—Outlet Pipe with Flap to Exclude Flood-water.
Fig. 40.—Outlet Pipe with Flap to Prevent Floodwater Intrusion.
We are quite sure that it is not in us a work of supererogation to urge upon our farmers the importance of careful[182] attention to this matter of outlets. This is one of that class of things which will never be attended to, if left to be daily watched. We Americans have so much work to do, that we have no time to be careful and watchful. If a child fall into the fire, we take time to snatch him out. If a sheep or ox get mired in a ditch, we leave our other business, and fly to the rescue. Even if the cows break into the corn, all hands of us, men and boys and dogs, leave hoeing or haying, and drive them out. And, by the way, the frequency with which most of us have had occasion to leave important labors to drive back unruly cattle, rendered lawless by neglect of our fences, well illustrates a national characteristic. We are earnest, industrious, and intent on doing. We can look forward to accomplish any labor, however difficult, but lack the conservatism which preserves the fruit of our labors—the "old fogyism" which puts on its spectacles with most careful adjustment, after wiping the glasses for a clear sight, and at stated periods, revises its affairs to see if some screw has not worked loose. A steward on a large estate, or a corporation agent, paid for inspecting and superintending, may be relied upon to examine his drainage works, and maintain them in repair; but no farmer in this country, who labors with his own hands, has time even for this most essential duty. His policy is, to do his work now, while he is intent upon it, and not trust to future watchfulness.
We are quite sure it is not excessive to urge our farmers to pay careful attention to this issue of outlets. This is one of those things that will never get addressed if left to be watched every day. We Americans have so much work to do that we don’t have time to be careful and vigilant. If a child falls into the fire, we take the time to pull them out. If a sheep or cow gets stuck in a ditch, we leave our other work and rush to help. Even if the cows break into the corn, all of us—men, boys, and dogs—abandon hoeing or haying to drive them out. By the way, the number of times many of us have had to leave important tasks to round up misbehaving cattle, made wild by our neglected fences, illustrates a national characteristic. We are earnest, hardworking, and focused on getting things done. We can look forward to completing any task, no matter how tough, but we lack the conservatism that preserves the outcomes of our efforts—the “old-fashioned” approach that carefully checks everything with clear eyesight and periodically reviews affairs to ensure nothing has gone wrong. A manager on a large estate or a corporate agent, who is paid to inspect and oversee, can be counted on to check their drainage systems and keep them in good condition; but no farmer in this country, who works with their own hands, has time for even this most crucial duty. Their strategy is to do their work now, while they’re focused, and not rely on future vigilance.
We speak from personal experience in this matter of outfalls. Our first drains ran down into a swamp, and the fall was so slight, that the mains were laid as low as possible, so that at every freshet they are overflowed. We have many times, each season, been compelled to go down, with spade and hoe, and clear away the mud which has been trodden up by cattle around the outlet. Although a small river flows through the pasture, the cows find[183] amusement, or better water, about these drains, and keep us in constant apprehension of a total obstruction of our works. We propose to relieve ourself of this care, by connecting the drains together, and building one or more reliable outlets.
We speak from personal experience regarding these outfalls. Our first drains led into a swamp, and the slope was so minimal that the main pipes were installed as low as possible, causing them to overflow during every flood. Each season, we've had to go down with a shovel and hoe to clear away the mud that livestock trampled around the outlet. Even though a small river runs through the pasture, the cows find amusement, or better water, near these drains, constantly worrying us about a complete blockage of our systems. We plan to ease this concern by connecting the drains and building one or more dependable outlets.
GRATINGS OR SCREENS AT THE OUTLET.
There are many species of "vermin," both "creeping things" and "slimy things, that crawl with legs," which seem to imagine that drains are constructed for their especial accommodations. In dry times, it is a favorite amusement of moles and mice and snakes, to explore the devious passages thus fitted up for them, and entering at the capacious open front door, they never suspect that the spacious corridors lead to no apartments, that their accommodations, as they progress, grow "fine by degrees and beautifully less," and that these are houses with no back doors, or even convenient places for turning about for a retreat. Unlike the road to Hades, the descent to which is easy, here the ascent is inviting; though, alike in both cases, "revocare gradum, hoc opus hic labor est." They persevere upward and onward till they come, in more senses than one, to "an untimely end." Perhaps stuck fast in a small pipe tile, they die a nightmare death; or, perhaps overtaken by a shower, of the effect of which, in their ignorance of the scientific principles of drainage, they had no conception, they are drowned before they have time for deliverance from the straight in which they find themselves, and so are left, as the poet strikingly expresses it, "to lie in cold obstruction and to rot."
There are many kinds of "vermin," both "creeping things" and "slimy things that crawl with legs," which seem to think that drains were built just for them. In dry times, moles, mice, and snakes enjoy exploring the twisting passages created for them. They enter through the large open front, never realizing that these spacious corridors lead to nowhere, that their surroundings, as they move along, become "finer by degrees and beautifully less," and that these are places with no back doors, or even any convenient spots to turn around for an escape. Unlike the road to Hades, which is easy to descend, here the climb is tempting; although, in both cases, "revocare gradum, hoc opus hic labor est." They keep moving upward and onward until they reach "an untimely end" in more ways than one. Maybe they get stuck in a small pipe tile and die a terrifying death; or perhaps they are caught in a sudden downpour, unaware of the scientific principles of drainage, and drown before they can escape the narrow confines they’re in. Thus, they are left, as the poet vividly puts it, "to lie in cold obstruction and to rot."
In cold weather, water from the drains is warmer than the open ditch, and the poor frogs, reluctant to submit to the law of Nature which requires them to seek refuge in mud and oblivious sleep, in Winter, gather round the outfalls, as they do about springs, to bask in the warmth[184] of the running water. If the flow is small, they leap up into the pipe, and follow its course upward. In Summer, the drains furnish for them a cool and shady retreat from the mid-day sun, and they may be seen in single file by scores, at the approach of an intruding footstep, scrambling up the pipe. Dying in this way, affects these creatures, as "sighing and grief" did Falstaff, "blows them up like a bladder;" and, like Sampson, they do more mischief in their death, than in all their life together. They swell up, and stop the water entirely, or partially dam it, so that the effect of the work is impaired.
In cold weather, water from the drains is warmer than the open ditch, and the poor frogs, unwilling to comply with Nature’s law that tells them to seek refuge in mud and deep sleep during Winter, gather around the outfalls, just like they do near springs, to soak up the warmth of the running water[184]. If the flow is small, they jump into the pipe and follow it upstream. In Summer, the drains provide them a cool and shady escape from the midday sun, and they can be seen in single file by the dozens, scrambling up the pipe at the sound of an approaching footstep. Dying this way affects these creatures, just like "sighing and grief" did Falstaff; it "blows them up like a bladder." And, like Samson, they cause more trouble in their death than they did in their entire lives. They swell up and completely or partly block the water, which diminishes the effectiveness of the work.
To prevent injuries from this source, there should be, at every outlet, a grating or screen of cast iron, or of copper wire, to prevent the intrusion of vermin. The screen should be movable, so that any accumulation in the pipe may be removed. An arrangement of this kind is shown in Fig. 40, as used in England. We know of nothing of the kind used in this country. For ourself, we have made of coarse wire-netting, a screen, which is attached to the pipe by hinges of wire. Holes may be bored with a bit through even a hard tile, or a No. 9 wire may be twisted firmly round the end of it, and the screen thus secured.
To prevent injuries from this source, every outlet should have a grating or screen made of cast iron or copper wire to keep vermin out. The screen should be movable so that any buildup in the pipe can be cleared. An arrangement like this is shown in Fig. 40, used in England. We aren’t aware of anything similar being used in this country. Personally, I made a screen from coarse wire netting, which is attached to the pipe with wire hinges. You can drill holes through even a hard tile with a bit, or tightly twist a No. 9 wire around the end of it to secure the screen.
This has thus far, been our own poor and unsatisfactory mode of protecting our drains. It is only better than none, but it is not permanent, and we hope to see some successful invention that may supply this want. So far as we have observed, no such precaution is used in this country; and in England, farmers and others who take charge of their own drainage works, often run their pipes into the mud in an open ditch, and trust the water to force its own passage.
This has been our inadequate and unsatisfactory way of protecting our drains so far. It’s only better than nothing, but it’s not a permanent solution, and we hope to see a successful invention that can address this need. From what we’ve seen, no such precaution is used in this country; and in England, farmers and others responsible for their own drainage systems often let their pipes discharge into the mud in an open ditch and rely on the water to find its own way through.
OF WELLS AND RELIEF PIPES.
In draining large tracts of land of uniform surface, it is often convenient to have single mains, or even minors,[185] of great length. Obstructions are liable to occur from various causes: and, moreover, there is great satisfaction in being certain that all is going right, and in watching the operation of our subterranean works. It is a common practice, and to be commended, to so construct our drains, that they may be inspected at suspicious points, and that so we may know their real condition.
In draining large areas of flat land, it's often useful to have long main drains, or even smaller ones,[185]. Blockages can happen for various reasons, and it’s very reassuring to know everything is working properly and to keep an eye on our underground systems. It’s a common and commendable practice to design our drains in a way that allows for inspections at key points, so we can understand their true condition.
For this purpose, wells, or traps, are introduced at suitable points, into which the drains discharge, and from which the water proceeds again along its course.
For this purpose, wells or traps are placed at appropriate locations, where the drains empty into them, and from there, the water continues along its path.
These are made of iron, or of stone or brick work, of any size that may be thought convenient, secured by covers that may be removed at pleasure.
These are made of iron or stone or brick, in any size that seems convenient, secured with covers that can be easily removed.
Where there is danger of obstruction below the wells, relief pipes may be introduced, or the wells may overflow, and so discharge temporarily, the drainage water. These wells, sometimes called silt basins, or traps, are frequently used in road drainage, or in sewers where large deposits are made by the drainage water. The sediment is carried along and deposited in the traps, while the water flows past.
Where there’s a risk of blockage below the wells, relief pipes can be installed, or the wells may overflow, temporarily releasing the drainage water. These wells, often referred to as silt basins or traps, are commonly used in road drainage systems or in sewers where large amounts of debris are deposited by the drainage water. The sediment gets carried along and collected in the traps, while the water continues to flow by.
These traps are large enough for a man to enter, and are occasionally cleared of their contents.
These traps are big enough for a person to get inside, and they are sometimes emptied of what’s inside.
When good stone, or common brick, are at hand, occasional wells may be easily constructed. Plank or timber might be used; and we have even seen an oil cask made to serve the purpose temporarily. In most parts of New England, solid iron castings would not be expensive.
When good stone or regular brick are available, it’s easy to build wells now and then. You could use planks or timber; we’ve even seen an oil barrel used temporarily for this purpose. In many areas of New England, solid iron castings wouldn’t be costly.
The water of thorough-drainage is usually as pure as spring-water, and such wells may often be conveniently used as places for procuring water for both man and beast, a consideration well worth a place in arrangements so permanent as those for drainage.
The water from thorough drainage is usually as clean as spring water, and these wells can often be conveniently used as sources of water for both people and animals, which is something to seriously consider in planning something as permanent as drainage systems.
The following figures represent very perfect arrangements of this kind, in actual use.[186]
The following figures show really well-organized examples of this type in practical use.[186]

Figs. 41 & 42.—Well with Silt Basin, or Trap, and Cover.
Figs. 41 & 42.—Well, with Silt Basin, or Trap, and Cover.
The flap attached to a chain at A, is designed to close the incoming drain, so as to keep back the water, and thus flush the drain, as it is termed, by filling it with water, and then suddenly releasing it. It is found that by this process, obstructions by sand, and by per-oxide of iron, may be brought down from the drains, when the flow is usually feeble.[187]
The flap connected to a chain at A is meant to close off the incoming drain to hold back the water and flush the drain, as it's called, by filling it with water and then quickly releasing it. This method has been found to help clear out blockages like sand and iron oxide from the drains when the flow is generally weak.[187]
SMALL WELLS, OR PEEP-HOLES.
By the significant, though not very elegant name of peep-holes, are meant openings at junctions, or other convenient points, for watching the pulsations of our subterranean arteries.
By the rather clunky term "peep-holes," we refer to openings at intersections or other handy spots for observing the movements of our underground channels.
In addition to the large structures of wells and traps, such as have been represented, we need small and cheap arrangements, by which we may satisfy ourselves and our questioning friends and neighbors, that every part of our buried treasure, is steadily earning its usury. It is really gratifying to be able to allow those who "don't see how water can get into the tiles," and who inquire so distrustfully whether you "don't think that land on the hill would be just as dry without the drains," to satisfy themselves, by actually seeing, that there is a liberal flow through all the pipes, even in the now dry soil. And then, again,
Along with the big structures for wells and traps, like the ones we've described, we also need small, affordable setups that can reassure us and our curious friends and neighbors that every part of our buried treasure is consistently generating returns. It’s really satisfying to show those who "don't understand how water can get into the tiles," and who skeptically ask whether "land on the hill would be just as dry without the drains," that they can see for themselves a steady flow through all the pipes, even in the currently dry soil. And then, again,
Gang often goes awry.
and drains will get obstructed, by one or other of the various means suggested in another place. It is then convenient to be able to ascertain with certainty, and at once, the locality of the difficulty, and this may be done by means of peep-holes.
and drains can become blocked by various methods mentioned elsewhere. It’s helpful to quickly determine the exact location of the problem, and this can be done using peep-holes.
These may be formed of cast iron, or of well-burnt clay, or what is called stone-ware, of 4, 6, or 10 inches internal diameter, and long enough to reach from the bottom of the drain to the surface, or a little above it.
These can be made of cast iron, well-fired clay, or what's known as stoneware, with internal diameters of 4, 6, or 10 inches, and long enough to extend from the bottom of the drain to the surface, or just a bit above it.
The drain or drains, coming into this little well, should enter a few inches above the pipe which carries off the water, so that the incoming stream may be plainly seen. A strong cover should be fitted to the top, and secured so as not to cause injury to cattle at work or feeding on the land. The arrangement will be at once seen by a sketch given on the following page.[188]
The drain or drains leading into this small well should come in a few inches above the pipe that carries the water away, so that the incoming flow can be easily seen. A sturdy cover should be placed on top and secured to prevent any harm to cattle that are working or grazing on the land. This setup can be clearly understood from the sketch provided on the next page.[188]

Figs. 43 & 44.—Small Well, or Peep-hole, and Cover.
Figs. 43 & 44.—Small Well, or Peephole, and Cover.
In our own fields, we have adopted several expedients to attain this object of convenient inspection. In one case, where we have a sub-main, which receives the small drains of an acre of orchard, laid at nearly five feet depth, we sunk two 40-gallon oil casks, one upon the other, at the junction of this sub-main with another, and fitted upon the top a strong wooden cover. The objections to this contrivance are, that it is temporary; that it occupies too much room; and that it is more expensive than a well of cast iron or stone-ware of proper size.
In our areas, we’ve implemented several methods to achieve convenient inspection. In one instance, where we have a sub-main that collects the small drains from an acre of orchard, buried at about five feet deep, we placed two 40-gallon oil barrels on top of each other at the junction of this sub-main with another, and put a sturdy wooden cover on top. The downsides of this setup are that it’s temporary, takes up too much space, and costs more than a properly sized cast iron or stone well.
In another part of the same field, we had a spring of excellent water, where, "from the time whereof the memory of man runneth not to the contrary," people had fancied they found better water to drink, than anywhere else. It is near a ravine, through which a main[189] drain is located, and which is now graded up into convenient plow land.
In another section of the same field, we discovered a spring with excellent water, where, "as far back as anyone can remember," people believed they found better drinking water than anywhere else. It’s located near a ravine, through which a main[189] drain runs, and that area has now been leveled for convenient plow land.
To preserve this spring for use in the Summer time, we procured a tin-worker to make a well, of galvanized iron, five feet long and ten inches diameter, into which are conducted the drain and the spring. A friendly hand has sketched it for us very accurately; thus:
To save this spring for use in the summer, we hired a tin worker to make a well out of galvanized iron, five feet long and ten inches in diameter, which would channel the drain and the spring. A helpful person has drawn it for us very clearly; like this:

Figs. 45 & 46.—How to Preserve a Spring in a Drained Field.
Figs. 45 & 46.—How to Maintain a Spring in a Drained Field.
The spring is brought in at a by a few tiles laid into the bank where the water naturally bursts out. The pipe b brings in the drain, which always flows largely, and the pipe c carries away the water. The small dipper, marked d, hangs inside the well, and is used by every man, woman, and boy, who passes that way. The spring enters six inches above the drain, for convenience in catching its water to drink.
The spring is brought in at a by a few tiles placed into the bank where the water naturally erupts. The pipe b brings in the drain, which consistently flows heavily, and the pipe c carries away the water. The small dipper, marked d, hangs inside the well and is used by every man, woman, and boy who passes by. The spring enters six inches above the drain for convenience in collecting its water to drink.
By careful observation the present Winter of 1858-9, the impression that there is some peculiar quality in this water is confirmed, for it is ascertained that it is six degrees warmer in cold weather than any other water upon the farm. The spring preserves a temperature of[190] about 47°, while the drain running through the same well, and the other drains in the field, and the well at the house, vary from 39° to 42°.
By careful observation this Winter of 1858-9, the belief that there's something unique about this water is confirmed, as it has been found to be six degrees warmer in cold weather than any other water on the farm. The spring maintains a temperature of[190] about 47°, while the drain running through the same well, along with the other drains in the field and the well at the house, range from 39° to 42°.
We confess to the weakness of taking great satisfaction in sipping this water, cool in Summer and warm in Winter, and in watching the mingled streams of spring and drainage water, and listening as we pass by, to their tinkling sound, which, like the faithful watchman of the night, proclaims that "all is well."
We admit that we find great joy in sipping this water, refreshing in summer and comforting in winter, and in observing the combined streams of spring and drainage water, listening as we walk by to their tinkling sound, which, like the reliable night watchman, reassures us that "everything is okay."
POSITION AND SIZE OF THE MAINS.
Having fixed on the proper position of the outlet, for the whole, or any portion of our work, the next consideration is the location of the drains that shall discharge at that point. It is convenient to speak of the different drains as mains, sub-mains, and minors. By mains, are understood the principal drains, of whatever material, the office of which is, to receive and carry away water collected by other drains from the soil. By minors, are intended the small drains which receive the surplus water directly from the soil. By sub-mains, are meant such intermediate drains as are frequently in large fields, interposed across the line of the minors, to receive their discharge, and conduct their water to the mains.
Once we’ve determined the right spot for the outlet, whether for the entire project or just a part of it, the next step is to figure out where the drains will discharge at that location. It's helpful to refer to the different drains as mains, sub-mains, and minors. The mains are the primary drains made of any material, designed to collect and carry away water that other drains have gathered from the soil. The minors are the smaller drains that take in excess water directly from the soil. The sub-mains serve as intermediate drains that are often found in larger fields, positioned across the minors to collect their outflow and direct that water to the mains.
They are principally used, where there is a greater length of small drains in one direction than it is thought expedient to use; or where, from the unequal surface, it is necessary to lay out subordinate systems of drains, to reach particular localities.
They are mainly used in situations where there is a longer stretch of small drains in one direction than is considered practical; or where, due to the uneven surface, it’s necessary to create smaller drainage systems to access specific areas.
Whether after the outlet is located, the mains or minors should next be laid out, is not perhaps very important. The natural course would seem to be, to lay out the mains according to the surface formation of the land, through the principal hollows of the field, although we have high authority for commencing with the minors, and allowing[191] their appropriate direction to determine the location of the mains.
Whether the main or minor lines are laid out first after locating the outlet may not be very important. It seems natural to lay out the mains according to the land's surface formation, following the main dips in the field, although there is strong support for starting with the minors and letting their appropriate direction determine where the mains go.
This is, however, rather a question of precedence and etiquette, than of practical importance. The only safe mode of executing so important a work as drainage, is by careful surveys by persons of sufficient skill, to lay out the whole field of operations, before the ground is broken; to take all the levels; to compare all the different slopes; consider all the circumstances, and arrange the work as a systematic whole. Generally, there will be no conflict of circumstances, as to where the mains shall be located. They must be lower than the minors, because they receive their water. They must ordinarily run across the direction of the minors, either at right angles or diagonally, because otherwise they cannot receive their discharge. If, then, in general, the minors, as we assume, run down the slope, the mains must run at the foot of the slope and across it.
This, however, is more about precedence and etiquette than about practical importance. The only reliable way to carry out such an important task as drainage is through careful surveys conducted by skilled individuals, to map out the entire area of operations before any excavation begins; to take all the measurements; to compare the various slopes; to consider all the factors, and to organize the work as a coordinated whole. Generally, there shouldn’t be any issues concerning the placement of the main pipes. They have to be lower than the minor ones since they collect the water. Typically, they need to run across the direction of the minor pipes, either at right angles or diagonally, because otherwise, they can’t receive the water flow. So, if we assume the minor pipes run down the slope, the main pipes must run at the bottom of the slope and across it.
It will be found in practice, that all the circumstances alluded to, will combine to locate the mains across the foot of regular slopes; and whether in straight or curved lines, along through the natural valleys of the field.
It will be found in practice that all the circumstances mentioned will come together to place the mains at the base of regular slopes, whether in straight or curved lines, through the natural valleys of the field.
In locating the mains, regard must always be had to the quantity of water and to the fall. Where a field is of regular slope, and the descent very slight, it will be necessary, in order to gain for the main the requisite fall, to run it diagonally across the bottom of the slope, thus taking into it a portion of the fall of the slope. If the fall requires to be still more increased, often the main may be deepened towards the outlet, so as to gain fall sufficient, even on level ground.
In finding the mains, it’s important to consider the amount of water and the slope. When a field has a consistent slope and a very gentle drop, it’s necessary to run the main diagonally across the bottom of the slope to gain the required fall, effectively using part of the slope’s drop. If more drop is needed, the main can often be deepened towards the outlet to create enough fall, even on flat ground.
If the fall is very slight, the size of the main may be made to compensate in part for want of fall, for it will not be forgotten, that the capacity of a pipe to convey water depends much on the velocity of the current, and[192] the velocity increases in proportion to the fall. If the fall and consequent velocity be small, the water will require a larger drain to carry it freely along. The size of the mains should be sufficient to convey, with such fall as is attainable, the greatest quantity of water that may ever be expected to reach them. Beyond this, an increase of size is rather a disadvantage than otherwise, because a small flow of water runs with more velocity when compressed in a narrow channel, than when broadly spread, and so has more power to force its way, and carry before it obstructing substances.
If the drop is very small, the size of the main pipe can help make up for the lack of fall, because it’s important to remember that a pipe’s ability to carry water depends a lot on the speed of the flow, and[192] the speed increases with more drop. If the drop and resulting speed are low, the water will need a larger drain to move freely. The mains should be big enough to handle, with the drop that can be achieved, the maximum amount of water that could ever flow into them. Going larger than this is usually more of a problem than a benefit because a small amount of water flows faster when squeezed through a narrow channel than when it spreads out, giving it more force to push through and move any obstacles.
We have seen, in considering the size of tiles, that in laying the minor drains, their capacity to carry all the water that may reach them is not the only limit of their size. A one-inch tile might in many cases be sufficient to conduct the water; but the best drainers, after much controversy on the point, now all agree that this is a size too small for prudent use, because so small an opening is liable to be obstructed by a very slight deposit from the water, or by a slight displacement, and because the joints furnish small space for the admission of water.
We’ve looked at tile sizes, and when setting up smaller drains, their ability to carry all the water that might flow into them isn’t the only thing that determines their size. A one-inch tile might often be enough to handle the water, but expert drainers have reached a consensus after much debate that this size is too small for sensible use. A small opening can easily get clogged with a minor buildup from the water or even a slight shift, and the joints leave limited room for water to enter.
Mains, however, being designed merely to carry off such water as they may receive from other drains, may in general be limited to the size sufficient to convey such water, at the greatest flow. It might seem a natural course, to proportion the capacity of the main to the capacity of the smaller drains that fall into it; and this would be the true rule, were the small drains expected to run full.
Mains, however, designed only to carry away water coming from other drains, can generally be sized just enough to handle the maximum flow. It might seem logical to size the main based on the capacity of the smaller drains that feed into it; and this would be the right approach if the smaller drains were anticipated to run at full capacity.
If our smallest drain, however, be of two-inch, or even one and a half inch bore, it can hardly be expected to fill at any time, unless of great length, or in some peculiarly wet place. Considering, then, what quantity of water will be likely to be conducted into the main, proportion the main not to the capacity of all the smaller drains[193] leading into it, but to the probable maximum flow—not to what they might bring into it, but to what they will bring.
If our smallest drain is two inches or even one and a half inches wide, it’s hard to expect it to fill up at any time unless it’s very long or in a particularly wet area. So, when considering how much water is likely to flow into the main, size the main based on the probable maximum flow—not on what all the smaller drains[193] might be able to bring in, but on what they will actually bring in.
If the mains be of three-inch pipes, other things being equal, their capacity is nine times that of a one-inch pipe, and two and a quarter times the capacity of a two-inch pipe.
If the main pipes are three inches in diameter, everything else being equal, their capacity is nine times that of a one-inch pipe and two and a quarter times the capacity of a two-inch pipe.
A three-inch main may, then, with equal fall and directness, be safely relied on to carry nine streams of water equal each to one inch diameter, or two and a quarter streams, equal to a two-inch stream. The three-inch main will, in fact, from the less amount of friction, carry much more than this proportion.
A three-inch main can, with the same slope and straightness, reliably transport nine streams of water, each with a diameter of one inch, or two and a quarter streams that match a two-inch stream. In reality, the three-inch main will carry significantly more than this amount due to lower friction.
The allowance to be made for a less fall in the mains, has already been adverted to, and must not be overlooked. It is believed that the capacity of a three or four-inch pipe to convey water, is in general likely to be much under-estimated.
The allowance for a smaller drop in the mains has already been mentioned and shouldn't be ignored. It's believed that the ability of a three or four-inch pipe to carry water is often significantly underestimated.
It is a common error, to imagine that some large stone water-course must be necessary to carry off so large a flow as will be collected by a system over a ten or twenty-acre field. Any one, however, who has watched the full flow of even a three-inch pipe, and observed the water after it has fallen into a nearly level ditch, will be aware, that what seems in the ditch a large stream, impeded as it is by a rough, uneven bottom, may pass through a three inch opening of smooth, well-jointed pipes. When we consider that a four-inch pipe is four times as capacious as a two-inch pipe, and sixteen times as large as a one-inch pipe, we may see that we may accommodate any quantity of water that may be likely anywhere to be collected by drainage, without recourse to other materials than tiles.
It’s a common mistake to think that a big stone drainage system is needed to handle the large amount of water collected from a drainage system across a ten or twenty-acre field. Anyone who has seen the full flow of even a three-inch pipe and watched the water as it flows into a nearly level ditch will know that what looks like a big stream in the ditch, even with its rough, uneven bottom, can easily pass through a three-inch opening of smooth, well-fitted pipes. When we realize that a four-inch pipe can hold four times as much as a two-inch pipe and sixteen times as much as a one-inch pipe, we can see that we can manage any amount of water likely to be collected by drainage without needing anything other than tiles.
When one three or four-inch pipe is not sufficient to convey the water, mains may conveniently be formed of[194] two or more tiles of any form. A main drain is sometimes formed by combining two horse-shoe tiles, with a tile sole or slate between them, to prevent slipping, as in fig. 47.
When a three or four-inch pipe isn't enough to carry the water, mains can easily be made from[194] two or more tiles of any shape. A main drain is sometimes created by putting together two horse-shoe tiles, with a tile base or slate in between to stop slipping, as shown in fig. 47.
Fig. 47.
Fig. 47.

Fig. 48.
Fig. 48.

Main Drain of two or more Horse-shoe Tiles.
Main Drain of two or more Horseshoe Tiles.
The combinations represented in the above figures, will furnish sufficient suggestions to enable any one to select or arrange such forms as may be deemed best suited to the case in hand. Where the largest obtainable tile is not large enough, two or more lines of pipes may be laid abreast.
The combinations shown in the figures above will provide enough ideas for anyone to choose or organize shapes that are considered best for the situation at hand. If the largest tile you can find isn’t big enough, you can lay two or more lines of pipes side by side.
POSITION OF THE MINOR DRAINS.
Assuming that it is desirable to run the small drains, as far as practicable, up and down the slope, the following directions, from the Cyclopedia of Agriculture, are given:
Assuming it's preferable to run the small drains, as much as possible, up and down the slope, here are the following instructions from the Cyclopedia of Agriculture:
"There is a very simple mode of laying out these (the minor drains), which will apply to most cases, or, indeed, to all, although in some its application may be more difficult. The surface of each field must be regarded as being made up of one or more planes, as the case may be, for each of which the drains should be laid out separately. Level lines are to be set out, a little below the upper edge of each of these planes, and the drains must be then made to cross these lines at right angles. By this means, the drains will run in the line of the greatest slope, no matter how distorted the surface of the field may be."
"There is a very straightforward way to set up these (the minor drains), which will work for most situations, or even all, although applying it might be more challenging in some cases. The surface of each field should be seen as being made up of one or more flat areas, depending on the situation, and for each of these, the drains should be planned out separately. Level lines should be marked slightly below the upper edge of each of these areas, and the drains should then be installed to intersect these lines at right angles. This way, the drains will follow the path of the steepest slope, regardless of how uneven the surface of the field may be."
Much is said, in the English books, about "furrows,"[195] and the "direction of the furrows," in connection with the laying out of drains. Much of the land in England, especially in moist places, was formerly laid up by repeated plowings, into ridges varying in breadth from ten to twenty feet, so as to throw off, readily, the water from the surface.
Much is discussed in English literature about "furrows,"[195] and the "direction of the furrows," related to the design of drains. A lot of land in England, particularly in wet areas, used to be formed into ridges ranging from ten to twenty feet wide through repeated plowing, in order to easily drain water from the surface.

These ridges were sometimes so high, that two boys in opposite furrows, between the ridges, could not see each other. In draining lands thus ridged, it is found far more easy to cut the ditches in the furrows, rather than across or upon the ridges. After thorough-drainage, in most localities, these ridges and furrows are dispensed with. The fact is, probably, only important here, as explaining the constant reference by English writers to this mode of working the land.
These ridges were sometimes so tall that two boys in opposite furrows, between the ridges, couldn't see each other. When draining lands that are ridged, it's much easier to dig the ditches in the furrows instead of across or on the ridges. After thorough drainage, in most places, these ridges and furrows are no longer needed. This fact is probably only important here to explain the frequent references by English writers to this way of farming the land.
Whether we shall drain "down the furrows," or "across the ridges," is not likely to be inquired of, by Americans.
Whether we should drain "down the furrows" or "across the ridges" is probably not something Americans will ask about.
The accompanying diagram represents a field of about thirty acres, as drained by the owner, B. F. Nourse, Esq., of Orrington, Me., a particular description of which will be found in another place.
The accompanying diagram shows a field of about thirty acres, drained by the owner, B. F. Nourse, Esq., of Orrington, Me. A detailed description can be found elsewhere.
The curves of the ends of the minors, at their junction with the mains, will indicate their course—the minors curving always so as to more nearly coincide, in course, with the current of water in the mains.
The curves at the ends of the minors, where they connect with the mains, will show their direction—the minors always bending to align more closely with the flow of water in the mains.
THE JUNCTION OF DRAINS.
Much difficulty arises in practice, as to connecting, in a secure and satisfactory manner, the smaller with the larger drains. It has already been suggested, that the streams should not meet at right angles, but that a bend should be made in the smaller drain, a few feet before it enters the main, so as to introduce the water of the small drain in the direction of the current in the main. In another place, an instance is given where it was found that a[196] quantity of water was discharged with a turn, or junction with a gentle curve, in 100 seconds, that required 140 seconds with a turn at right angles; and that while running direct, that is, without any turn, it was discharged in 90 seconds. This is given as a mere illustration of the principle, which is obvious enough. Different experiments would vary with the velocity, quantity of water, and smoothness of the pipe; but nothing is more certain, than that every change of direction impedes velocity.
Many difficulties come up in practice when trying to connect smaller drains to larger ones in a secure and effective way. It’s already been suggested that the streams shouldn’t meet at right angles; instead, a bend should be made in the smaller drain a few feet before it enters the main one, allowing the water from the small drain to flow in the same direction as the current in the main drain. In another example, it's shown that a[196] amount of water was discharged with a gentle curve at the junction in 100 seconds, compared to 140 seconds when it turned at right angles; and when flowing straight, with no turns, it was discharged in 90 seconds. This serves as a simple illustration of the principle, which is pretty clear. Different experiments would change based on the speed, volume of water, and smoothness of the pipe; but one thing is certain: every change in direction slows down the flow.
Thus we see that if we had but a single drain, the necessary turns should be curved, to afford the least obstruction.
Thus we see that if we had just one drain, the necessary bends should be curved to provide the least obstruction.
Where the drain enters into another current, there is yet a further obstruction, by the meeting of the two streams. Two equal streams, of similar velocity and size, thus meeting at right angles, would have a tendency to move off diagonally, if not confined by the pipe; and, confined as they are, must both be materially retarded in their flow. In whatever manner united, there must be much obstruction, if the main is nearly full, at the point of junction. The common mode of connecting horse-shoe tile-drains is shown thus:
Where the drain meets another flow, there's another obstruction caused by the two streams coming together. If two equal streams with similar speed and size meet at right angles, they would tend to move off diagonally if not contained by the pipe; and since they are contained, their flow will be significantly slowed down. No matter how they come together, there will be a lot of obstruction if the main pipe is almost full at the junction. The usual way to connect horse-shoe tile-drains is shown like this:

Fig. 50.—Junction of Drains.
Fig. 50.—Drain Junction.
Having no tiles made for the purpose, we, at first, formed the union by means of common hard bricks. Curving down the small drain toward the direction of the main, we left a space between two tiles of the main, of two or three inches, and brought down the last tile of the small drain to this opening, placing under the whole a flat stone, slate, or bricks, or a plank, to keep all firm at the bottom. Then we set bricks on edge on all sides, and covered the space[197] at the top with one or more, as necessary, and secured carefully against sand and the like.
Having no tiles made for this purpose, we initially constructed the connection using regular hard bricks. As we directed the small drain toward the main one, we left a gap of two or three inches between two tiles of the main drain and positioned the last tile of the small drain to align with this opening. Underneath, we placed a flat stone, slate, bricks, or a plank to keep everything stable at the bottom. Then, we stood bricks on their edges around all sides and covered the gap at the top with one or more tiles as needed, making sure it was well-secured against sand and other debris.[197]
We have since procured branch-pipes to be made at the tile-works, such as are in use in England, and find them much more satisfactory. The branches may be made to join the mains at any angle, and it might be advisable to make this part of both drains larger than the rest, to allow room for the obstructed waters to unite peacefully.
We have since arranged for branch pipes to be made at the tile works, similar to those used in England, and we find them much more effective. The branches can be connected to the mains at any angle, and it might be a good idea to make this part of both drains larger than the rest, to provide space for the backed-up water to flow together smoothly.

Fig. 51.
Branch Pipes.
Fig. 51.
Branch Pipes.
The mains should be from three to six inches deeper than the minors. The fall from one to the other may usually be made most conveniently, by a gradual descent of three or four feet to the point of junction; but with branch-pipes, the fall may be nearly vertical, if desired, by turning the branch upward, to meet the small pipe. It will be necessary, in procuring branches for sole-tiles, to bear in mind that they are "rights and lefts," and must be selected accordingly, as the branch comes in upon the one or other side of the main.
The mains should be three to six inches deeper than the minors. The slope from one to the other is usually easiest with a gradual descent of three or four feet to the junction point; however, with branch pipes, the slope can be almost vertical if needed by directing the branch upward to connect with the smaller pipe. When obtaining branches for sole tiles, it’s important to remember that there are "rights and lefts," and they must be chosen accordingly, depending on whether the branch comes in from the right or left side of the main.
The branch should enter the larger pipe not level with the bottom, but as high as possible, to give an inch fall to the water passing out of the branch into the main, to prevent possible obstruction at the junction.
The branch should connect to the larger pipe not level with the bottom, but as high as possible, to create an inch drop for the water flowing from the branch into the main pipe, preventing potential blockage at the junction.
DRAINAGE INTO WELLS, OR SWALLOW HOLES.
In various parts of our country, there are lands lying too flat for convenient drainage in the ordinary methods, or too remote from any good outlet, or perhaps enclosed by lands of others who will not consent to an outfall through their domain, where the drainage water may be discharged into wells.
In different areas of our country, there are lands that are too flat for easy drainage using regular methods, or they might be too far from any good outlet, or maybe they're surrounded by land owned by others who won’t allow drainage through their property, where the runoff could be released into wells.
In the city of Washington, on Capitol Hill, it is a common practice to drain cellars into what are termed "dry wells." The surface formation is a close red clay, of a[198] few feet thickness, and then comes a stratum of coarse gravel; and the wells for water are sunk often as deep as sixty feet, indicating that the water-table lies very low. The heavy storms and showers fill the surface soil beyond saturation, and the water gushes out, literally, into the cellars and other low places. A dry well, sunk through the clay, conducts this water into the gravel bed, and this carries it away. This idea is often applied to land drainage. It is believed that there are immense tracts of fertile land at the West, upon limestone, where the surface might readily be relieved of surplus water, by conducting the mains into wells dug for the purpose. In some places, there are openings called "sink-holes," caused by the sinking of masses of earth, as in the neighborhood of the city of St. Louis, which would afford outlets for all the water that could be poured into them. In the Report of the Tioga County Agricultural Society for 1857, it is said in the Country Gentleman, that instances are given, where swamps were drained through the clay bottom into the underlying gravelly soil, by digging wells and filling them with stones.
In the city of Washington, on Capitol Hill, it's common to drain cellars into what are called "dry wells." The top layer is a dense red clay, a[198] few feet thick, followed by a layer of coarse gravel. Wells for water can be dug as deep as sixty feet, showing that the water table is very low. Heavy storms and showers saturate the surface soil, causing water to overflow into cellars and other low areas. A dry well, drilled through the clay, channels this water into the gravel bed, which then carries it away. This concept is often used for land drainage. It's thought that there are vast areas of fertile land to the West, on limestone, where the surface could easily be drained of excess water by directing the mains into specially dug wells. In some regions, there are openings known as "sink-holes," formed by collapsing earth, like those near St. Louis, which could serve as outlets for all the water that could be funneled into them. In the Report of the Tioga County Agricultural Society for 1857, it mentions in the Country Gentleman that there are examples of swamps being drained through the clay layer into the underlying gravel soil by digging wells and filling them with stones.
In Fig. 7, at page 82, is shown a "fault" in the stratification of the earth; which faults, it is said, so completely carry off water, that wells cannot be sunk so as to reach it.
In Fig. 7, on page 82, there's a "fault" in the layering of the earth shown; these faults, it's said, are so effective at draining water that wells can't be dug deep enough to reach it.
Mr. Denton says that in several parts of England, advantage is taken of the natural drainage existing beneath wet clay soils, by concentrating the drains to holes, called "swallow-holes." He says this practice is open to the objection that those holes do not always absorb the water with sufficient rapidity, and so render the drainage for a time, inoperative.
Mr. Denton says that in various parts of England, people take advantage of the natural drainage found beneath wet clay soils by channeling the drains to holes known as "swallow-holes." He mentions that this practice has the drawback that those holes don’t always absorb water quickly enough, which can make the drainage ineffective for a period.
These wells are liable, too, to be obstructed in their operation by their bottoms being puddled with the clay carried into them by the water, and so becoming impervious.[199] This point would require occasional attention, and the removal of such deposits.
These wells can also get blocked in their operation when the bottoms are filled with clay brought in by the water, making them watertight.[199] This issue would need to be looked at from time to time, and those deposits should be cleared out.
This principle of drainage was alluded to at the American Institute, February 14, 1859, by Professor Nash. He states, that there are large tracts of land having clay soil, with sand or gravel beneath the clay, which yet need drainage, and suggests that this may be effected by merely boring frequent holes, and filling them with pebbles, without ditches. In all such soils, if the mode suggested prove insufficient, large wells of proper depth, stoned up, or otherwise protected, might obviously serve as cheap and convenient outlets for a regular system of pipe or stone drains.
This drainage principle was mentioned at the American Institute on February 14, 1859, by Professor Nash. He noted that there are extensive areas of land with clay soil sitting atop sand or gravel, which still require drainage. He proposed that this could be achieved by simply boring frequent holes and filling them with pebbles, without needing ditches. In any such soils, if the suggested method isn't enough, large wells of the right depth, lined with stones or otherwise secured, could clearly serve as cost-effective and convenient outlets for a regular system of pipe or stone drains.
Mr. Bergen, at the same meeting, stated that such clayey soil, based on gravel, was the character of much of the land on Long Island; and we cannot doubt that on the prairies of the West, where the wells are frequently of great depth to obtain water for use, wells or swallow-holes to receive it, may often be found useful. Whenever the water-line is twenty or thirty feet below the surface, it is certain that it will require a large amount of water poured in at the surface of a well to keep it filled for any considerable length of time. The same principle that forces water into wells, that is, pressure from a higher source, will allow its passage out when admitted at the top.
Mr. Bergen, at the same meeting, mentioned that the clayey soil, which is based on gravel, is typical of much of the land on Long Island. We can't deny that in the prairies of the West, where wells often have to be very deep to access water, wells or swallow-holes for collecting it can be quite useful. Whenever the water level is twenty or thirty feet below the surface, it's clear that a significant amount of water needs to be poured in at the top of a well to keep it filled for any meaningful period. The same principle that pushes water into wells, which is pressure from a higher source, will also allow it to flow out when it's let in from the top.
We close this chapter with a letter from Mr. Denton. The extract referred to, has been here omitted, because we have already, in the chapter preceding this, given Mr. Denton's views, expressed more fully upon the same subject, with his own illustrations.
We conclude this chapter with a letter from Mr. Denton. The referenced excerpt has been left out because we already covered Mr. Denton's thoughts on the same topic in the previous chapter, providing more details along with his own examples.
It should be stated that the letter was in reply to inquiries upon particular points, which, although disconnected, are all of interest, when touched upon by one whose opinions are so valuable.[200]
It should be noted that the letter was in response to questions about specific points, which, although unrelated, are all relevant when discussed by someone whose opinions are so valuable.[200]
"London, 52 Parliament Street, Westminster, S. W.
"London, 52 Parliament Street, Westminster, S. W.
"My Dear Sir:—I have received your letter of the 17th August, and hasten to reply to it.
"Dear Sir:—I got your letter from August 17th, and I'm quick to respond."
"I am gratified at the terms in which you speak of my roughly-written 'Essays on Land Drainage.' If you have not seen my published letter to Lord Berners, and my recent essay 'On the Advantages of a Daily Record of Rain-fall,' I should much like you to look over them, for my object in both has been to check the uniformity of treatment which too much prevails with those who are officially called upon to direct draining, and who still treat mixed soils and irregular surfaces pretty much in the same way as homogeneous clays and even surfaces, the only difference being, that the distance between the drains is increased. We have now, without doubt, arrived at that point in the practice of draining in this country, which necessitates a revision of all the principles and rules which have been called into force by the Drainage Acts, and the institution of the Drainage Commission, whose duty it is to administer those Acts, and to protect the interests of Reversioners.
I’m pleased with how you’ve described my roughly-written 'Essays on Land Drainage.' If you haven’t seen my letter to Lord Berners and my recent essay 'On the Advantages of a Daily Record of Rainfall', I would really like you to check them out, as I aimed in both to address the uniform approach that’s often taken by those officially tasked with managing drainage. They still treat mixed soils and uneven surfaces almost the same way as they do uniform clays and flat areas, with the only difference being that the distance between the drains is wider. We have definitely reached a point in drainage practices in this country where we need to rethink all the principles and rules set out by the Drainage Acts and the establishment of the Drainage Commission, which is responsible for enforcing those Acts and safeguarding the interests of Reversioners.
"This protection is, in a great measure, performed by the intervention of 'Inspectors of Drainage,' whose subordinate duty it is to see that the improvements provisionally sanctioned are carried out according to certain implied, if not fixed, rules. This is done by measuring depth and distance, which tends to a parallel system (4 feet deep) in all soils, which was Smith of Deanston's notion, only his drains were shallower, i.e., from 2 to 3 feet deep.
"This protection is largely provided by the 'Inspectors of Drainage,' whose job is to ensure that the improvements that have been temporarily approved are implemented according to some implied, if not strict, guidelines. This involves measuring depth and distance, which follows a parallel system (4 feet deep) in all soils, a concept proposed by Smith of Deanston, although his drains were shallower, i.e., between 2 to 3 feet deep."
"Some rules were undoubtedly necessary when the Commissioners first commenced dispensing the public money, and I do not express my objection to the absurd position to which these rules are bringing us, from any disrespect to them, nor with an idea that any better course could have been followed by the Government, in the first instance, than the adoption of the 'Parkes—Smith frequent drain system.' This system was correctly applied, and continues to be correctly applied, to absorbent and retentive soils requiring the aeration of frequent drains to counteract their retentive nature; but it is altogether misapplied when adopted in the outcropping surfaces of the free water-bearing strata, which, though equally wet, are frequently drained by a comparatively few drains, at less than half the cost.
"Some rules were definitely needed when the Commissioners first started managing public funds, and I don’t raise my concerns about the ridiculous situation these rules have put us in out of any disrespect for them, nor do I think the Government could have made a better decision initially than adopting the 'Parkes—Smith frequent drain system.' This system was applied correctly and continues to work well for absorbent and retentive soils that need frequent drainage for aeration; however, it is completely misapplied when used on the exposed surfaces of freely water-bearing layers, which, although just as wet, can be effectively drained with relatively few drains at less than half the cost."
"The only circumstance that can excuse the indiscriminate adoption of a parallel system, is the fact, that all drains do some good, and the chances of a cure being greater in proportion to the number of drains,[201] it was not necessary to insist upon that judgment which ten years' experience should now give.
"The only reason that can justify the widespread use of a parallel system is that all drains provide some benefit, and the likelihood of a cure increases with the number of drains,[201] so it wasn't necessary to emphasize that conclusion which a decade of experience should now offer."
"My views on this point will perhaps be best understood by the following extract from an address I recently delivered. [Extract omitted, see p. 161].
"My thoughts on this matter will probably be best understood through the following excerpt from a speech I recently gave. [Extract omitted, see p. 161]."
* * * "I use one and a half inch pipes for the upper end of drains (though I prefer two-inch), one half being usually one and a half and the other half two-inch. This for minor drains; the mains run up to 9 or 10 inches, and even 18 inches in size, according to their service.
* * * "I use one and a half-inch pipes for the upper end of drains (though I prefer two-inch), with one half typically being one and a half and the other half two inches. This is for minor drains; the mains can be up to 9 or 10 inches, and even 18 inches in size, depending on their service.
"There is no doubt sufficient capacity in one-inch pipes for minor drains; but, inasmuch as agricultural laborers are not mathematical scholars, and are apt to lay the pipes without precise junctions, it is best to have the pipes so large as to counteract that degree of carelessness which cannot be prevented. The ordinary price of pipes in this country will run thus: + meaning above, and-below, the prices named:
"There’s definitely enough capacity in one-inch pipes for minor drains. However, since agricultural workers aren’t experts in math and tend to install the pipes without exact junctions, it’s better to use larger pipes to compensate for the inevitable careless mistakes. The usual price of pipes in this country will go as follows: + meaning above, and - below, the prices listed:
1½ | inch | 15s. | + |
2 | " | 20s. | - |
3 | " | 30s. | |
4 | " | 40s. | + |
5 | " | 50s. | + |
6 | " | 60s. | + |
"The price of cutting clays 4 feet deep, will vary from 1d. to 1½d. per yard, according to density and mixture with stone; and the price of cutting in mixed soils will vary from 1½d. to 6d., according to the quantity of pick-work and rock, and with respect, also, to the price of agricultural labor. (See my tabular table of cost in Land Drainage and Drainage Systems.)
"The cost of cutting clays 4 feet deep will range from 1 penny to 1.5 pence per yard, depending on the density and stone mixture; and the cost for cutting in mixed soils will range from 1.5 pence to 6 pence, based on the amount of pick-work and rock, as well as the price of agricultural labor. (See my tabular table of cost in Land Drainage and Drainage Systems.)"
"I should have thought it would have been quite worth the while of the American Government to have had a farm of about 500 acres, drained by English hands, under an experienced engineer, as a practical sample of English work, for the study of American agriculturists, with every drain laid down on a plan, with the sizes of the pipes, and all details of soil, and prices of labor and material, set forth.
"I would have thought it would be worthwhile for the American Government to have a farm of about 500 acres, drained by English experts, under a skilled engineer, as a practical example of English work for American farmers to study, with every drain mapped out, including the sizes of the pipes, and all details about the soil, labor costs, and materials clearly laid out."
"I am, dear Sir,
"Yours very faithfully,
"The Hon. H. F. French, Exeter.
"J. BAILEY DENTON."
"I'm here, dear Sir,"
Best regards,
"The Hon. H. F. French, Exeter."
"J. BAILEY DENTON."
CHAPTER IX[202]
THE COST OF TILES—TILE MACHINES.
Prices far too high; Albany Prices.—Length of Tiles.—Cost in Suffolk Co., England.—Waller's Machine.—Williams' Machine.—Cost of Tiles compared with Bricks.—Mr. Denton's Estimate of Cost.—Other Estimates.—Two-inch Tiles can be Made as Cheaply as Bricks.—Process of Rolling Tiles.—Tile Machines.—Descriptions of Daines'.—Pratt & Bro.'s.
Prices are way too high; Albany Prices.—Length of Tiles.—Cost in Suffolk County, England.—Waller's Machine.—Williams' Machine.—Cost of Tiles compared to Bricks.—Mr. Denton's Cost Estimate.—Other Estimates.—Two-inch Tiles can be Made as Economically as Bricks.—Process of Rolling Tiles.—Tile Machines.—Descriptions of Daines'.—Pratt & Bro.'s.
The prices at which tiles are sold is only, as the lawyers say, primâ facie evidence of their cost. It seems to us, that the prices at which tiles have thus far been sold in this country, are very far above those at which they may be profitably manufactured, when the business is well understood, and pursued upon a scale large enough to justify the use of the best machinery. The following is a copy of the published prices of tiles at the Albany Tile Works, and the same prices prevail throughout New England, so far as known:
The prices at which tiles are sold are only, as the lawyers say, primâ facie evidence of their cost. We believe that the prices at which tiles have been sold in this country so far are much higher than what they can be profitably manufactured for, when the business is well understood and operated on a scale big enough to make the best machinery worthwhile. Below is a copy of the published prices of tiles at the Albany Tile Works, and the same prices are largely consistent across New England, as far as we know:
Horse-shoe Tile--Pieces. | Sole-Tile--Pieces. | ||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2½ | inches | rise | $12 | per 1000. | 2 | inches | rise | $12 | per 1000. |
3½ | " | " | 15 | " | 3 | " | " | 18 | " |
4½ | " | " | 18 | " | 4 | " | " | 40 | " |
5½ | " | " | 40 | " | 5 | " | " | 60 | " |
6½ | " | " | 60 | " | 6 | " | " | 80 | " |
7½ | " | " | 75 | " | 8 | " | " | 125 | " |
Few round pipe-tiles have yet been used in this country, although they are the kind generally preferred by engineers in England. The prices of round tiles would vary little from those of sole-tiles.
Few round pipe tiles have been used in this country so far, even though they are the type that engineers in England generally prefer. The prices of round tiles wouldn't differ much from those of sole tiles.
Tiles are usually cut fourteen inches long, and shorten,[203] in drying and burning, to about twelve and a half inches, so that, with breaking and other casualties, they may be calculated to lay about one foot each; that is to say, 1,000 tiles may be expected to lay 1,000 feet of drains.
Tiles are typically cut to fourteen inches long, but they shrink in size during the drying and firing process to about twelve and a half inches. This reduction accounts for breaks and other losses, allowing for an estimate of about one tile per foot. In other words, you can expect that 1,000 tiles will cover approximately 1,000 feet of drainage.
To assist those who desire to manufacture tiles for sale, or for private use, it is proposed to give such information as has been gathered from various sources as to the cost of making, and the selling prices of tiles, in England. The following is a memorandum made at the residence of Mr. Thomas Crisp, at Butley Abbey, in Suffolk Co., Eng., from information given the author on the 8th of July, 1857:
To help those who want to make tiles for sale or personal use, we plan to provide information gathered from various sources about the cost of production and the selling prices of tiles in England. Below is a note taken at the home of Mr. Thomas Crisp at Butley Abbey in Suffolk County, England, based on information given to the author on July 8, 1857:
"Mr. Crisp makes his own tiles, and also supplies his neighbors who need them. He sells one and a half inch pipes at 12s. ($3) per 1,000. He pays 5s. ($1.25) per 1,000 for having them made and burnt. His machine is Waller's patent, No. 22, made by Garrett and Son, Leiston, Saxemundham, Suffolk. It works by a lever, makes five one and a half inch pipes at once, or three sole-tiles about two-inch. The man at work said, that he, with a man to carry away, &c., could make 4,000 one and a half inch pipes per day. They used no screen, but cut the clay with a wire. The machine cost £25 (about $125). At the kiln, which is permanent, the tiles are set on end, and bricks with them in the same kiln. They require less heat than bricks, and cost about half as much as bricks here, which are moulded ten inches by five.
"Mr. Crisp makes his own tiles and supplies his neighbors who need them. He sells one and a half inch pipes for 12s. ($3) per 1,000. He pays 5s. ($1.25) per 1,000 to have them made and fired. His machine is Waller's patent, No. 22, made by Garrett and Son in Leiston, Saxmundham, Suffolk. It operates with a lever and can produce five one and a half inch pipes at once, or three sole-tiles about two inches in size. The worker stated that, with one person to carry them away, etc., he could make 4,000 one and a half inch pipes in a day. They didn't use a screen but cut the clay with a wire. The machine cost £25 (about $125). At the permanent kiln, the tiles are stood on end, with bricks in the same kiln. They require less heat than bricks and cost about half as much as the bricks here, which are molded ten inches by five."
"Two girls were loading bricks into a horse-cart, and two women receiving them, and setting them in the kiln. They made roof-tiles with the same machine, and also moulded large ones by hand. The wages of the women are about 8d. (sixteen cents) per day."
"Two girls were loading bricks into a horse-drawn cart, while two women were receiving them and placing them in the kiln. They used the same machine to make roof tiles and also molded large ones by hand. The women's wages are about 8d. (sixteen cents) per day."
At the exhibition of the Royal Agricultural Society, in England, the author saw Williams' Tile Machine in operation, and was there informed by the exhibitor, who said[204] he was a tile-maker, that it requires five-sevenths as much coal to burn 1,000 two-inch tiles, as 1,000 bricks—the size of bricks being 10 by 5; and he declared, that he, with one boy, could make with the machine, 7,000 two-inch tiles per day, after the clay is prepared. Of course, one other person, at least, must be employed to carry off the tiles.
At the exhibition of the Royal Agricultural Society in England, the author saw Williams' Tile Machine in action and was informed by the exhibitor, who identified himself as a tile-maker, that it uses five-sevenths of the coal needed to fire 1,000 two-inch tiles compared to 1,000 bricks—the size of bricks being 10 by 5. He stated that he, along with one boy, could produce 7,000 two-inch tiles per day, after the clay is prepared. Naturally, at least one other person would need to be hired to transport the tiles.
Mr. Denton gives his estimates of the prices at which pipe-tiles may be procured in England, as follows—the prices, which he gives in English currency, being translated into our own:
Mr. Denton provides his estimates for the prices of pipe tiles available in England, as follows—the prices he lists in British currency are converted into our own:
"When ordinary agricultural labor is worth $2 50 per week, pipes half one and a half inch, and half two-inch, maybe taken at an average cost of $4 38 per 1,000. When labor is $3 00 per week, the pipes will average $5 00 per 1,000, and when labor is $3 50, they will rise to $5 62."
"When regular agricultural work pays $2.50 a week, pipes that are one and a half inches and two inches in diameter can be obtained for an average of $4.38 per 1,000. When labor costs $3.00 a week, the pipes will average $5.00 per 1,000, and when labor goes up to $3.50, the price will increase to $5.62."
He adds: "In giving the above average cost of materials, those districts are excluded from consideration, where clay suitable for pipes, exists in the immediate vicinity of coal-pits, which must necessarily reduce the cost of producing them very considerably."
He adds: "By providing the average cost of materials mentioned, those districts where suitable clay for pipes is located close to coal mines are excluded from consideration, as this would significantly lower the production costs."
Taking the averages of several careful estimates of the cost of tiles and bricks, from the "Cyclopædia of Agriculture," we have the price of tiles in England about $5 per 1,000, and the price of bricks $7.87, from which the duty of 5s. 6d. should be deducted, leaving the average price of bricks $6.50. Upon tiles there is no such duty. Bricks in the United States are made of different sizes, varying from 8 × 4 in. to the English standard 10 × 5 in. Perhaps a fair average price for bricks of the latter size, would be not far from $5 per 1,000; certainly below $6.50 per 1,000. There is no reason why tiles may not be manufactured in the United States, as cheaply, compared with the prices of bricks, as in England; and it is quite clear that tiles of the sizes named, are far cheaper there than common bricks.
Taking the averages of several careful estimates of the cost of tiles and bricks from the "Cyclopædia of Agriculture," we find that the price of tiles in England is about $5 per 1,000, and the price of bricks is $7.87, from which a duty of 5s. 6d. should be deducted, leaving the average price of bricks at $6.50. There is no such duty on tiles. In the United States, bricks come in various sizes, ranging from 8 × 4 inches to the English standard of 10 × 5 inches. A fair average price for bricks of the latter size would be around $5 per 1,000, definitely below $6.50 per 1,000. There’s no reason why tiles can't be produced in the United States as affordably, relative to brick prices, as in England; it’s clear that tiles of the mentioned sizes are much cheaper there than regular bricks.
What is wanted in this country is, first, a demand sufficient[205] to authorize the establishment of works extensive enough to make tiles at the best advantage; next, competent skill to direct and perform the labor; and, finally, the best machinery and fixtures for the purpose. It is confidently predicted, that, whenever the business of tile-making becomes properly established, the ingenuity of American machinists will render it easy to manufacture tiles at English prices, notwithstanding the lower price of labor there; and that we shall be supplied with small tiles in all parts of the country at about the current prices of bricks, or at about one half the present Albany prices of tiles, as given at the head of this chapter. It should be mentioned here, perhaps, that, in England, it is common to burn tiles and bricks together in the same kiln, placing the tiles away from the hottest parts of the furnace; as, being but about half an inch in thickness, they require less heat to burn them than bricks.
What’s needed in this country is, first, a strong enough demand[205] to support the creation of facilities large enough to produce tiles efficiently; next, skilled workers to oversee and execute the labor; and finally, top-notch machinery and equipment for the task. It’s confidently predicted that, once the tile-making industry is properly established, the creativity of American machinists will make it possible to manufacture tiles at prices comparable to those in England, despite the lower labor costs there. We can expect to find small tiles available nationwide at around the current prices of bricks, or about half the existing Albany prices for tiles, as mentioned at the beginning of this chapter. It’s worth noting that in England, it's common to burn tiles and bricks together in the same kiln, placing the tiles in cooler areas of the furnace since they are only about half an inch thick and require less heat to fire than bricks.
In the estimates of labor in making tiles in England, a small item is usually included for "rolling." Round pipes are chiefly used in England. When partly dried, they are taken up on a round stick, and rolled upon a small table, to preserve their exact form. Tiles usually flatten somewhat in drying, which is not of importance in any but round pipes, but those ought to be uniform. By this process of rolling, great exactness of shape, and a great degree of smoothness inside, are preserved.
In the estimates for labor in making tiles in England, there’s typically a small line item for "rolling." Round pipes are mainly used in England. When they’re partially dried, they’re picked up on a round stick and rolled on a small table to maintain their exact shape. Tiles usually flatten a bit while drying, which isn’t a big deal for anything other than round pipes, but those need to be uniform. This rolling process ensures high precision in shape and a smooth finish on the inside.
TILE MACHINES.
Drainage with tiles is a new branch of husbandry in America. The cost of tiles is now a great obstacle in prosecuting much work of this kind which land-owners desire to accomplish. The cost of tiles, and so the cost of drainage, depends very much—it may be said, chiefly—upon the perfection of the machinery for tile-making; and here, as almost everywhere else, agriculture and the[206] mechanic arts go hand in hand. Labor is much dearer in America than in Europe, and there is, therefore, more occasion here than there, for applying mechanical power to agriculture. We can have no cheap drainage until we have cheap tiles; and we can have cheap tiles only by having them made with the most perfect machinery, and at the lowest prices at which competing manufacturers, who understand their business, can afford them.
Drainage with tiles is a new area of farming in America. The cost of tiles is currently a major barrier for landowners looking to implement this type of work. The price of tiles, and thus the cost of drainage, largely hinges on the efficiency of the machinery used for making them; and, like in many other fields, agriculture and the[206] mechanical arts go hand in hand. Labor is much more expensive in America than in Europe, meaning there’s a greater need here to incorporate mechanical power into farming. We won’t achieve affordable drainage until we have affordable tiles; and we can only have cheap tiles if they are produced with the best machinery and at the lowest prices that knowledgeable competing manufacturers can manage.
In the preceding remarks on the cost of tiles, may be found estimates, which will satisfy any thinking man that tiles have not yet been sold in America at reasonably low prices.
In the previous comments on the cost of tiles, you can find estimates that will convince any reasonable person that tiles haven't been sold in America at fair prices yet.
To give those who may desire to establish tileries, either for public or private supply, information, which cannot readily be obtained without great expense of English books, as to the prices of tile machines, it is now proposed to give some account of the best English machines, and of such American inventions as have been brought to notice.
To provide those interested in starting tile businesses, whether for public or private use, with information that isn’t easily accessible without spending a lot on English books, we now intend to share details about the best English machines and notable American inventions that have come to our attention.
It is of importance that American machinists and inventors should be apprised of the progress that has been made abroad in perfecting tile machines; because, as the subject attracts attention, the ingenuity of the universal Yankee nation will soon be directed toward the discovery of improvements in all the processes of tile-making. Tiles were made by hand long before tile machines were invented.
It’s important for American machinists and inventors to be aware of the advancements made overseas in improving tile machines because, as this topic gains interest, the creativity of the American spirit will quickly focus on finding ways to enhance all aspects of tile-making. Tiles were made by hand long before tile machines were developed.
A Mr. Read, in the "Royal Agricultural Journal," claims to have used pipe tiles as early as 1795, made by hand, and formed on a round stick. No machine for making tiles is described, before that of Mr. Beart's, in 1840, by which "common tile and sole (not pipes or tubes) were made." This machine, however, was of simple structure, and not adapted to the varieties of tiles now used.[207]
A Mr. Read, in the "Royal Agricultural Journal," claims to have used pipe tiles as early as 1795, made by hand and shaped on a round stick. No tile-making machine is mentioned before Mr. Beart's in 1840, which was used to make "common tile and sole (not pipes or tubes)." However, this machine was quite simple and not suited for the different types of tiles we use today.[207]
All tile machines seem to operate on the same general principle—that of forcing wet clay, of the consistency of that used in brick-making, through apertures of the desired shape and size. To make the mass thus forced through the aperture, hollow, the hole must have a piece of metal in the centre of it, around which the clay forms, as it is pushed along. This centre piece is kept in position by one or two thin pieces of iron, which of course divide the clay which passes over them, but it unites again as it is forced through the die, and comes out sound, and is then cut off, usually by hand, by means of a small wire, of the required length, about fourteen inches.
All tile machines seem to work on the same basic principle—forcing wet clay, similar to what's used in brick-making, through openings of the desired shape and size. To make the clay that comes out of the opening hollow, there needs to be a piece of metal in the center of it, around which the clay forms as it is pushed through. This center piece is held in place by one or two thin iron pieces, which obviously split the clay as it flows over them, but it combines again when it’s forced through the die, coming out intact, and is then usually cut off by hand using a small wire to the required length, about fourteen inches.
Tile machines work either vertically or horizontally. The most primitive machine which came to the author's notice abroad, was one which we saw on our way from London to Mr. Mechi's place. It was a mere upright cylinder, of some two feet height, and perhaps eight inches diameter, in which worked a piston. The clay was thrown into the cylinder, and the piston brought down by means of a brake, like an old-fashioned pump, and a single round pipe-tile forced out at the bottom. The force employed was one man and two boys. One boy screened the clay, by passing through it a wire in various directions, holding the wire by the ends, and cutting through the mass till he had found all the small stones contained in it. The man threw the masses thus prepared, into the cylinder, and put on the brake, and the other boy received the tiles upon a round stick, as they came down through the die at the bottom, and laid them away. The cylinder held clay enough to make several, perhaps twenty, two-inch pipes. The work was going on in a shed without a floor, and upon a liberal estimate, the whole establishment, including shed and machine, could not cost more than fifty dollars. Yet, on this simple plan, tiles were moulded much more rapidly than bricks were[208] made in the same yard, where they were moulded singly, as they usually are in England. It was said that this force could thus mould about 1,800 small tiles per day.
Tile machines operate either vertically or horizontally. The most basic machine that the author noticed abroad was one we saw while traveling from London to Mr. Mechi's place. It was just an upright cylinder about two feet tall and maybe eight inches wide, with a piston inside. Clay was thrown into the cylinder, and the piston was lowered using a brake, similar to an old-fashioned pump, pushing out a single round pipe tile from the bottom. The workforce consisted of one man and two boys. One boy screened the clay by moving a wire through it in different directions, cutting through the mixture until he found all the small stones. The man tossed the prepared clay into the cylinder and engaged the brake, while the other boy caught the tiles on a round stick as they came down through the die at the bottom and set them aside. The cylinder could hold enough clay to make several, perhaps twenty, two-inch pipes. The work was happening in a shed without a floor, and generously estimated, the entire setup, including the shed and the machine, could not have cost more than fifty dollars. Still, using this simple design, tiles were shaped much faster than bricks were made in the same yard, where they were typically formed one at a time as they are in England. It was said that this setup could mold around 1,800 small tiles each day.
This little machine seems to be the same described by Mr. Parkes as in general use in 1843, in Kent and Suffolk Counties.
This small machine appears to be the same one Mr. Parkes described as commonly used in 1843 in Kent and Suffolk Counties.
Most of the tile machines now in use in England and America, are so constructed, as to force out the tiles upon a horizontal frame-work, about five two-inch, or three three-inch pipes abreast. The box to contain the clay may be upright or horizontal, and the power may be applied to a wheel, by a crank turned by a man, or by horse, steam, or water power, according to the extent of the works.
Most of the tile machines currently used in England and America are designed to push out tiles on a horizontal framework, with about five two-inch or three three-inch pipes side by side. The box that holds the clay can be either upright or horizontal, and the power can be supplied to a wheel by a crank turned by a person, or through horse, steam, or water power, depending on the size of the operation.
We saw at the Exhibition of the Royal Agricultural Society, at Salisbury, in England, in July, 1857, the "pipe and tile machine," of W. Williams, of Bedford. It was in operation, for exhibition, and was worked by one man, who said he was a tile maker, and that he and one boy could make with the machine 7,000 two-inch tiles per day, after the clay was prepared in the pug mill. Four tiles were formed at once, by clay passed through four dies, and the box holds clay enough for thirty-two two-inch tiles, so that thirty-two are formed as quickly as they can be removed, and as many more, as soon as the box can be refilled.
We saw the “pipe and tile machine” by W. Williams from Bedford at the Royal Agricultural Society Exhibition in Salisbury, England, in July 1857. It was running for demonstration, operated by a tile maker who mentioned he and one boy could produce 7,000 two-inch tiles a day, once the clay was ready from the pug mill. The machine formed four tiles simultaneously as clay passed through four molds, and the box could hold enough clay for thirty-two two-inch tiles, allowing for continuous production as soon as the tiles were removed and the box refilled.
The size, No. 3, of this machine, such as we then saw in operation, and which is suitable for common use, costs at Bedford $88.50, with one set of dies; and the extra dies, for making three, four, and six-inch pipes, and other forms, if desired, with the horses, as they are called, for removing the tiles, cost about five dollars each.
The size No. 3 of this machine, which we saw in use back then and is suitable for everyday use, costs $88.50 at Bedford, including one set of dies. The additional dies for making three, four, and six-inch pipes, along with the "horses" for removing the tiles, cost about five dollars each if you want those too.
This, like most other tile machines, is adapted to making tiles for roofs, much used in England instead of shingles or slates, as well as for draining purposes.
This, like most other tile machines, is designed to make tiles for roofs, which are commonly used in England instead of shingles or slates, as well as for drainage purposes.
There are several machines now in use in England[209] namely: Etheridge's, Clayton's, Scragg's, Whitehead's, and Garrett's—either of which would be satisfactory, according to the amount of work desired.
There are several machines currently used in England[209], namely: Etheridge's, Clayton's, Scragg's, Whitehead's, and Garrett's—any of which would be satisfactory, depending on the amount of work needed.
We have in America several patented machines for making tiles, of the comparative merits of which we are unable to give a satisfactory judgment. We will, however, allude to two or three, advising those who are desirous to purchase, to make personal examination for themselves. We are obliged to rely chiefly on the statements of the manufacturers for our opinions.
We have several patented machines for making tiles in America, but we can't provide a solid judgment on their relative merits. However, we'll mention a couple of them, and we recommend that anyone looking to buy should check them out personally. We mainly have to rely on the manufacturers' claims for our opinions.

DAINES' DRAIN TILE MAKER
Daines' Drain Tile Manufacturer
Daines' American Drain Tile Machine is manufactured at Birmingham, Michigan, by John Daines. This machine is in use in Exeter, N. H., close by the author's residence, and thus far proves satisfactory. The price of it is about $100, and the weight, about five hundred pounds. It occupies no more space than a common three-and-a-half foot table, and is worked by a man at a crank. It is capable of turning out, by man power, about two hundred and fifty two-inch tiles in an hour, after the clay is prepared in a pug mill. Horse or water power can be readily attached to it.
Daines' American Drain Tile Machine is manufactured in Birmingham, Michigan, by John Daines. This machine is currently in use in Exeter, N.H., near the author's home, and is proving to be satisfactory so far. It costs around $100 and weighs about five hundred pounds. It takes up about the same space as a standard three-and-a-half-foot table and is operated by a person turning a crank. It can produce about two hundred two-inch tiles per hour using manpower, once the clay is prepared in a pug mill. Horse or water power can easily be added to it.
We give a drawing of it, not because we are sure it is the best, but because we are sure it is a good machine, and to illustrate the principle upon which all these machines are constructed.
We provide a drawing of it, not because we believe it’s the best, but because we know it’s a good machine, and to explain the principle that all these machines are built on.
Pratt's Tile Machine is manufactured at Canandaigua, New York, by Pratt & Brothers, and is in use in various places in that State as well as elsewhere. This machine differs from Daines' in this essential matter, that here the clay is pugged, or tempered, and formed into tiles at one operation, while with Daines' machine, the clay is first passed through a pug mill, as it is for making bricks in the common process.
Pratt's Tile Machine is made in Canandaigua, New York, by Pratt & Brothers, and it's being used in different locations in that state as well as beyond. This machine is different from Daines' because here the clay is pugged, or tempered, and shaped into tiles in a single process, whereas with Daines' machine, the clay is first put through a pug mill, just like it is done in the standard brick-making process.
Pratt's machine is worked by one or two horses, or by steam or water power, as is convenient. The price of the smaller size, worked by one horse, is $150, and the price[210] of the larger size, worked by two horses, $200. Professor Mapes says he saw this machine in operation and considers it "perfect in all its parts." The patentees claim that they can make, with the one-horse machine, 5,000 large tiles a day. They state also that "two horses will make tiles about as cheap as bricks are usually made, and as fast, with the large-sized machine."
Pratt's machine can be powered by one or two horses, or by steam or water power, whichever is more convenient. The smaller version, operated by one horse, costs $150, while the larger version, powered by two horses, is priced at $200. Professor Mapes says he witnessed this machine in action and thinks it’s "perfect in all its parts." The inventors claim that with the one-horse machine, they can produce 5,000 large tiles a day. They also mention that "two horses will produce tiles at about the same cost and speed as the usual brick-making process with the large machine."

Fig. 53.—Pratt's Tile Machine.
Fig. 53.—Pratt's Tile Machine.
These somewhat indefinite statements are all that we can give, at present, of the capacity of the machines. We should have no hesitation in ordering a Pratt machine were we desirous of entering into an extensive business of Tile-making, and we should feel quite safe with a Daines' machine for a more limited manufacture.
These somewhat vague statements are all we can provide right now about the machines' capabilities. We wouldn't hesitate to order a Pratt machine if we were looking to get into a large-scale tile-making business, and we'd feel completely confident with a Daines' machine for a smaller operation.
SALISBURY'S TILE MACHINE.
S. C. Salisbury, at the Novelty Works, in the city of New York, is manufacturing a machine for making tiles and bricks, which exhibits some new and peculiar features, worthy of attention by those who propose to purchase tile machines. Prof. Mapes expresses the confident opinion that this machine excels all others, in its capacity to form tiles with rapidity and economy. We have examined only a working model. It is claimed that the large size, with horse-power, will make 20,000 two-inch tiles per day, and the hand-power machine 3,000 per day. We advise tile makers to examine all these machines in operation, before purchasing either.
S. C. Salisbury, at the Novelty Works in New York City, is making a machine for producing tiles and bricks that has some new and unique features worth considering for anyone looking to buy tile machines. Prof. Mapes confidently believes this machine is better than all the others when it comes to producing tiles quickly and cost-effectively. We've only seen a working model so far, but it’s said that the large, powered version can produce 20,000 two-inch tiles a day, while the manual version can make 3,000 tiles daily. We recommend that tile makers check out all of these machines in action before making a purchase.
CHAPTER X[211]
THE COST OF DRAINAGE.
Draining no more expensive than Fencing.—Engineering.—Guessing not accurate enough.—Slight Fall sufficient.—Instances.—Two Inches to One Thousand Feet.—Cost of Excavation and Filling.—Narrow Tools required.—Tables of Cubic contents of Drains.—Cost of Drains on our own Farm.—Cost of Tiles.—Weight and Freight of Tiles.—Cost of Outlets.—Cost of Collars.—Smaller Tiles used with Collars.—Number of Tiles to the Acre, with Tables.—Length of Tiles varies.—Number of Rods to the Acre at different Distances.—Final Estimate of Cost.—Comparative Cost of Tile-Drains and Stone-Drains.
Draining is no more expensive than fencing. — Engineering. — Guessing is not accurate enough. — A slight fall is sufficient. — Instances. — Two inches over one thousand feet. — Cost of excavation and filling. — Narrow tools required. — Tables of cubic contents of drains. — Cost of drains on our own farm. — Cost of tiles. — Weight and freight of tiles. — Cost of outlets. — Cost of collars. — Smaller tiles used with collars. — Number of tiles per acre, with tables. — Length of tiles varies. — Number of rods per acre at different distances. — Final estimate of cost. — Comparative cost of tile drains and stone drains.
A prudent man, intending to execute a work, whether it be "to build a tower," or drain a field, "sitteth down first and counteth the cost, whether he hath sufficient to finish it." There is good sense and discretion in the inquisitiveness which suggests so often the inquiry, "How much does it cost to drain an acre?" or, "How much does it cost a rod to lay drains?" These questions cannot be answered so briefly as they are asked; yet much information can be given, which will aid one who will investigate the subject.
A careful person, planning to do a job, whether it’s “building a tower” or draining a field, “first sits down and counts the cost to see if they have enough to finish it.” It makes sense to ask questions like, “How much does it cost to drain an acre?” or, “How much does it cost per rod to lay drains?” These questions can’t be answered as easily as they’re asked, but there’s a lot of information available that can help anyone who looks into the topic.
The process of drainage is expensive, as compared with the price of land in our new settlements; but its cost will not alarm those who have been accustomed to see the improvements made in New England upon well cultivated farms. Compared with the labor and cost of building and maintaining fences upon the highways, and in the subdivisions of lots, common in the Eastern States, the[212] drainage of land is a small matter. We see in many places long stretches of faced walls, on the line of our roads near towns and villages, which cost from two to five dollars per rod. Our common "stone walls" in these States cost about one dollar per rod to build originally; and almost any kind of wooden fence costs as much. Upon fences, there is occasion for annual repairs, while drains properly laid, are permanent.
The process of drainage is costly compared to the price of land in our new settlements; however, its expense won't be shocking to those familiar with the improvements made in New England on well-kept farms. When you consider the labor and cost of building and maintaining fences along highways and within lot subdivisions, which is common in the Eastern States, the[212] drainage of land is quite minor. In many areas, we see long stretches of stone walls along our roads near towns and villages that cost between two and five dollars per rod. Our typical "stone walls" in these states originally cost about one dollar per rod to build, and almost any type of wooden fence is equally expensive. Fences require annual maintenance, while properly installed drains are permanent.
These suggestions are thrown out, that farmers may not be alarmed without cause, at the high cash estimates of the cost of drainage operations. Money comes slowly to farmers, and a cash estimate looks larger to them than an estimate in labor. The cost of fencing seems no great burden; though, estimated in cash, it would seem, as in fact it is, a severe charge.
These suggestions are offered so that farmers won't be unnecessarily worried about the high cash estimates for drainage projects. Money comes slowly for farmers, and a cash estimate feels larger to them than one based on labor. The cost of fencing doesn't seem like a big deal; however, when estimated in cash, it appears, and indeed is, a significant expense.
Drainage can be performed principally by the same kind of labor as fencing, the cost of the tiles being a small item in the whole expense. The estimates of labor will be made at one dollar per day, in investigating this matter.
Drainage can mainly be done with the same type of work as fencing, and the cost of the tiles is a minor part of the overall expense. The labor costs will be estimated at one dollar per day while looking into this issue.
This would be the fair cash value of work by the day, perhaps; but it is far more than farmers, who have work in hand on their own farms, which may be executed in the leisure season after haying, and even into the Winter, when convenient, will really expend for such labor. Few farm operations would pay expenses, if every hour of superintendence, and every hour of labor by man and boy and beast, were set down at this high rate.
This might be the fair cash value for daily labor; however, it’s much more than what farmers, who already have their own tasks to handle on their farms, would actually spend on such labor. They usually find time to get these jobs done during the downtime after haying and sometimes even into the winter when it suits them. Most farming activities wouldn’t cover costs if every hour spent supervising and every hour of work by men, boys, and animals were accounted for at this high rate.
The cost of the tiles will, ordinarily, be a cash item, and the labor may be performed like that of planting, hoeing, haying, and harvesting, by such "help" hired by the mouth or day, or rendered by the family, as may be found convenient.
The price of the tiles will usually be a cash expense, and the labor can be done like planting, hoeing, cutting hay, and harvesting, by hired help paid by the hour or day, or by family members, depending on what works best.
The cost of drainage may be considered conveniently, to borrow a clerical phrase, "under the following heads."[213]
The cost of drainage can be conveniently classified, to borrow a clerical phrase, "under the following heads."[213]
1. Laying out, or Engineering.—In arranging our Spring's work, we devote time and attention to laying it out, though this hardly forms an item in the expense of the crop. Most farmers may think themselves competent to lay out their drainage-works, without paying for the scientific skill of an engineer, or even of a surveyor.
1. Planning or Engineering.—When organizing our spring projects, we spend time and effort on planning, even though this doesn't really count as a cost in the overall crop expenses. Most farmers probably believe they're capable of designing their drainage systems without needing to hire the technical expertise of an engineer or even a surveyor.
It is believed, however, that generally, it will be found true economy, to procure the aid of an experienced engineer, if convenient, to lay out the work at the outset. Certainly, in most cases, some skill in the use of levelling instruments, at least, is absolutely essential to systematic work. No man, however experienced, can, by the eye, form any safe opinion of the fall of a given tract of land. Fields which appear perfectly level to the eye, will be found frequently to give fall enough for the deepest drainage. The writer recently had occasion to note this fact on his own land.
It is generally believed that it's a good idea to hire an experienced engineer, if possible, to plan the work from the beginning. In most situations, having some skill with leveling instruments is crucial for organized work. No one, no matter how experienced, can reliably judge the slope of a piece of land just by looking. Fields that seem completely flat can often have enough slope for deep drainage. The writer recently observed this on his own property.
A low wet spot had many times been looked at, as a place which should be drained, both to improve its soil, and the appearance of the land about it; but to the eye, it seemed doubtful whether it was not about as low as the stream some forty rods off, into which it must be drained. Upon testing the matter carefully with levelling instruments, it was found that from the lowest spot in this little swamp, there was a fall of seven and a half feet to the river, at its ordinary height! Again, there are cases where it will be found upon accurate surveys, that the fall is very slight, so that great care will be requisite, to lay the drains in such a way that the descent may be continuous and uniform.
A low, wet area had often been viewed as a spot that needed to be drained, both to enhance the soil and improve the appearance of the surrounding land. However, visually, it seemed uncertain whether it was actually lower than the stream about forty rods away, into which it would need to be drained. Upon carefully testing the situation with leveling instruments, it was discovered that from the lowest point in this small swamp, there was a drop of seven and a half feet to the river, at its usual height! Additionally, there are instances where accurate surveys show that the drop is very minimal, meaning that great care is needed to position the drains so that the slope is continuous and even.
Without competent skill in laying out the work, land-owners will be liable not only to errors in the fall of the drains, but to very expensive mistakes in the location of them. A very few rods of drains, more than are necessary,[214] would cost more than any charge of a competent person for laying them out properly.
Without the right skills to plan the work, landowners risk not just mistakes in how the drains slope, but also costly errors in where they are placed. Just a few extra feet of drainage than needed,[214] can end up costing more than hiring a qualified person to do it correctly.
Again, experience gives great facility in judging of the underground flow of water, of the permeability of soil, of the probability of finding ledges or other rock formation, and many other particulars which might not suggest themselves to a novice in the business.
Again, experience makes it much easier to assess the underground movement of water, the permeability of soil, the likelihood of discovering ledges or other rock formations, and many other details that might not occur to someone new to the field.
The laying out of drains is important, not only with reference to the work in hand, but to additional work to be executed in future on adjoining land, so that the whole may be eventually brought into one cheap and efficient system with the smallest effective number of drains, both minors and mains, and the fewest outlets possible; with such wells, or other facilities for inspection, as may be necessary.
The layout of drains is important, not just for the current project but also for any future work on nearby land. This ensures that everything can eventually be integrated into one affordable and efficient system with the least number of drains, both minor and main, and the fewest outlets possible, along with any necessary wells or other inspection facilities.
In the English tables of the cost of drainage by the Drainage Companies, an estimate of $1.25 per acre is usually put down for "superintendence," which includes the engineering and the supervision of the whole process of opening, laying and filling, securing outfalls, and every other process till the work is completed. The general estimate of the cost of drainage is about $25.00 per acre, and this item of $1.25 is but a small per centage on that amount. The point has been dwelt upon here, more for the purpose of impressing upon land-owners, the importance of employing competent skill in the laying out of their drainage works, than because the expense thus incurred, forms any considerable item of the cost of the whole work.
In the English tables for drainage costs provided by the Drainage Companies, an estimate of $1.25 per acre is typically listed for "superintendence," which covers the engineering and oversight of the entire process including opening, laying, filling, securing outfalls, and all other steps until the project is finished. The overall estimated cost of drainage is about $25.00 per acre, making the $1.25 a minor portion of that total. This point is emphasized here mainly to highlight to landowners the importance of hiring skilled professionals for their drainage projects, rather than the actual cost involved being a significant part of the total expense.
2. Excavation and Filling. The principal expense of drainage is incurred in the excavation of the ditch, whether it be for tiles or for stones. The labor of excavation depends much upon the nature of the soil to be moved.
2. Excavation and Filling. The main cost of drainage comes from digging the ditch, whether it's for tiles or for stones. The work involved in excavation greatly depends on the type of soil that needs to be moved.
"Draining on a sound clay," says the writer of a prize essay, "free[215] from stones, may be executed at a cheaper rate per rod, in length, than on almost any other kind of soil, as, from the firmness of the clay, the work may be done with narrow spades, and but a small quantity of soil requires to be removed. The draining of wet sands or grounds, or clays in which veins of sand abound, is more expensive than on sound clays, because a broader spade has to be used, and consequently a larger amount of soil removed; and draining stony or rocky soils is still more expensive, because the pick has to be used. This adds considerably to the expense."
"Draining solid clay," says the author of a prize-winning essay, "free[215] of stones, can be done more cheaply per rod in length than on nearly any other type of soil. Due to the firmness of the clay, the work can be carried out with narrow spades, and only a small amount of soil needs to be removed. Draining wet sands or areas, or clays that contain sand veins, costs more than draining solid clays because a wider spade has to be used, which means more soil is removed. Draining stony or rocky soils is even pricier, as it requires the use of a pick. This significantly increases the cost."
Great stress is laid, by all experienced persons, upon using narrow spades, and opening ditches as narrow as possible.
Great emphasis is placed by all experienced people on using narrow spades and digging ditches as narrow as possible.
It is somewhat more convenient for unskillful laborers to work in a wide ditch than in a narrow one, and although the laborers frequently protest that they cannot work so rapidly in narrow ditches, yet it is found that, in contract work, by the rod, they usually open the ditches very narrow.
It’s a bit easier for inexperienced workers to dig in a wide ditch than in a narrow one, and even though the workers often complain that they can’t work as quickly in narrow ditches, it’s usually seen that, in contract work by the rod, they tend to dig the ditches pretty narrow.
Indeed, it will be found that, generally, the cost of excavation bears a pretty constant proportion to the number of cubic feet of earth thrown out.
Indeed, it's generally observed that the cost of excavation remains fairly consistent in relation to the number of cubic feet of earth removed.
It will surprise those unaccustomed to these estimates, to observe how rapidly the quantity excavated, increases with the increased width of the ditch.
It may surprise those who aren't used to these estimates to see how quickly the amount dug up increases with a wider ditch.
To enable the reader accurately to compute the measurement of drains of any dimensions likely to be adopted, a table and explanations, found in the Report of the Board of Health, already quoted, are given below. The dimensions, or contents of any drain, are found by multiplying together the length, depth, and mean width of the drain.
To help the reader accurately calculate the size of drains of any dimensions that might be used, a table and explanations from the Report of the Board of Health, mentioned earlier, are provided below. The dimensions, or volume, of any drain can be found by multiplying the length, depth, and average width of the drain.
"Thus, if a drain is 300 yards long, and the cutting 3 feet deep, 20 inches wide at the top, and 4 inches wide at the bottom, the mean width would be 12 inches (or the half of the sum of 20 and 4), and if we multiply 300, the length, by 1, the depth in yards, and by 1/3, the mean width in yards, and the product would be 100 cubic yards. The following table will serve to facilitate such calculations.
"Therefore, if a drain is 300 yards long, with a cut that is 3 feet deep, 20 inches wide at the top, and 4 inches wide at the bottom, the average width would be 12 inches (which is half of the sum of 20 and 4). If we multiply 300, the length, by 1, the depth in yards, and by 1/3, the average width in yards, the result would be 100 cubic yards. The following table will help with these calculations."
Depth. | Mean Width. | |||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Inches. | 7 In. | 8 In. | 9 In. | 10 In. | 11 In. | 12 In. | 13 In. | 14 In. | 15 In. | 16 In. | 17 In. | 18 In. |
30 | 0.89 | 1.02 | 1.146 | 1.27 | 1.40 | 1.53 | 1.655 | 1.78 | 1.91 | 2.04 | 2.164 | 2.29 |
33 | 0.98 | 1.12 | 1.26 | 1.40 | 1.54 | 1.68 | 1.82 | 1.96 | 2.10 | 2.24 | 2.38 | 2.52 |
36 | 1.07 | 1.22 | 1.375 | 1.53 | 1.68 | 1.83 | 1.986 | 2.14 | 2.29 | 2.244 | 2.60 | 2.75 |
39 | 1.16 | 1.324 | 1.49 | 1.655 | 1.82 | 1.986 | 2.15 | 2.32 | 2.48 | 2.65 | 2.81 | 2.98 |
42 | 1.25 | 1.426 | 1.604 | 1.78 | 1.96 | 2.14 | 2.32 | 2.495 | 2.674 | 2.85 | 3.03 | 3.21 |
45 | 1.34 | 1.53 | 1.72 | 1.91 | 2.10 | 2.29 | 2.48 | 2.67 | 2.865 | 3.055 | 3.246 | 3.438 |
48 | 1.426 | 1.63 | 1.833 | 2.04 | 2.24 | 2.444 | 2.65 | 2.85 | 3.056 | 3.26 | 3.46 | 3.667 |
51 | 1.515 | 1.73 | 1.95 | 2.164 | 2.38 | 2.60 | 2.81 | 3.03 | 3.25 | 3.46 | 3.68 | 3.896 |
54 | 1.604 | 1.83 | 2.06 | 2.29 | 2.52 | 2.75 | 2.98 | 3.20 | 3.44 | 3.666 | 3.895 | 4.125 |
57 | 1.69 | 1.935 | 2.18 | 2.42 | 2.66 | 2.90 | 3.14 | 3.38 | 3.63 | 3.87 | 4.11 | 4.354 |
60 | 1.78 | 2.036 | 2.29 | 2.546 | 2.80 | 3.056 | 3.31 | 3.564 | 3.82 | 4.074 | 4.33 | 4.584 |
"Along the top of the table is placed the mean widths in inches, and on the left-hand side the depths of the drains, extending from 30 inches to 5 feet. The numbers in the body of the table express cubic yards, and decimals of a yard. In making use of the table, it is necessary first to find the mean width of the drain, from the widths at the top and bottom. Thus, if a drain 3 feet deep were 16 inches wide at the top, and 4 inches at the bottom, the mean width would be half of 16 added to 4, or 10; then, by looking in the table for the column under 10 (width), and opposite 36 (inches of depth), we find the number of cubic yards in each rod of such a drain to be 1.53, or somewhat more than one and a half. If we compare this with another drain 20 inches wide at the top, 4 inches at the bottom, and 4½ feet deep, we have the mean width 12, and looking at the table under 12 and opposite 54, we find 2.75 cubic yards, or two and three-quarters to the rod. In this case, the quantity of earth to be removed is nearly twice as much as in the other, and hence, as far as regards the digging, the cost of the labor will be nearly double. But in the case of deep drains, the cost increases slightly for another reason, namely, the increased labor of lifting the earth to the surface from a greater depth."
"At the top of the table, you'll find the average widths in inches, and on the left side, the depths of the drains range from 30 inches to 5 feet. The figures within the table represent cubic yards and decimals of a yard. To use the table, first determine the average width of the drain by taking the widths at the top and bottom. For example, if a drain is 3 feet deep, 16 inches wide at the top, and 4 inches at the bottom, the average width would be half of 16 plus 4, which is 10. Next, refer to the table under the column for 10 (width) and across from 36 (inches of depth) to find that each rod of this drain contains 1.53 cubic yards, or just over one and a half. In comparison, if we look at another drain that is 20 inches wide at the top, 4 inches at the bottom, and 4½ feet deep, we find the average width to be 12. Referring to the table under 12 and opposite 54, we see that it has 2.75 cubic yards, or two and three-quarters per rod. In this case, the amount of earth to be removed is nearly twice as much as the first drain, which means the labor costs for digging will be almost double. However, with deeper drains, the cost also increases slightly due to the extra effort needed to lift the earth from a greater depth."
Under the title of the "Depth of Drains," other reasons are suggested why shallow drains are more easily wrought than deeper drains. The widths given in English treatises, and found perfectly practicable there, with proper drainage-tools, will seem to us exceedingly narrow. Mr. Parkes gives the width of the top of a four-foot drain 18[217] inches, of a three-and-a-half foot drain 16 inches, and of a three-foot drain 12 inches. He gives the width of drains for tiles, three inches at bottom, and those for stones, eight inches. Of the cost of excavating a given number of cubic yards of earth from drains, it is difficult to give reliable estimates. In the writer's own field, where a pick was used to loosen the lower two feet of earth, the labor of opening and filling drains 4 feet deep, and of the mean width of 14 inches, all by hand labor, has been, in a mile of drains, being our first experiments, about one day's labor to three rods in length. The excavated earth of such a drain, measures not quite three cubic yards. (Exactly, 2.85.)
Under the heading "Depth of Drains," other reasons are provided for why shallow drains are easier to create than deeper ones. The widths mentioned in English texts, which are completely doable there with the right drainage tools, will seem extremely narrow to us. Mr. Parkes lists the width at the top of a four-foot drain as 18[217] inches, for a three-and-a-half-foot drain it’s 16 inches, and for a three-foot drain, it’s 12 inches. He states that drains designed for tiles have a bottom width of three inches, while those for stones have a width of eight inches. It's tough to provide accurate cost estimates for digging a specified number of cubic yards of earth from drains. In my own experience, where we used a pick to loosen the bottom two feet of soil, the work of opening and filling four-foot-deep drains, averaging 14 inches wide, all by hand, took about one day's labor for every three rods over a mile of drains, considering this was our first attempt. The amount of excavated earth from such a drain totals just under three cubic yards. (Specifically, 2.85.)
In work subsequently executed, we have opened our drains of 4 foot depth, but 20 inches at top, and 4 inches at bottom, giving a mean width of 12 inches. In one instance, in the Summer of 1858, two men opened 14 rods of such drain in one day. In six days, the same two men opened, laid, and filled 947 feet, or about 57½ rods of such drain. Their labor was worth $12.00, or 21 cents per rod. The actual cost of this job was as follows:
In the work done later, we dug our drains to a depth of 4 feet, measuring 20 inches wide at the top and 4 inches at the bottom, resulting in an average width of 12 inches. In one case, during the summer of 1858, two men managed to dig 14 rods of this type of drain in a single day. Over six days, these two men dug, set up, and filled 947 feet, which is about 57½ rods of this drain. Their work was valued at $12.00, or 21 cents per rod. The actual cost of this job was as follows:
847 two-inch tiles, at $13 per 1,000 | $11.01 |
100 three-inch tiles, at $13 per 1,000 for main | 2.50 |
70 bushels of tan, to protect the joints | .70 |
Horse to haul tiles and tan | .50 |
Labor, 12 days, at $1 | 12.00 |
Total | $26.71 |
This is 46½ cents per rod, besides our own time and skill in laying out and superintending the work. The work was principally done with Irish spades, and was in a sandy soil. In the same season, the same men opened, laid, and filled 70 rods of four-foot drain, of the same mean width of 12 inches, in the worst kind of clay soil, where the pick was constantly used. It cost 35 days' labor to complete the job, being 50 cents per rod for the labor alone. The least cost of the labor of draining 4 feet deep, on our[218] own land, is thus shown to be 21 cents per rod, and the greatest cost 50 cents per rod, all the labor being by hand. One-half these amounts would have completed the drains at 3 feet depth, as has been already shown.
This is 46½ cents per rod, plus our own time and skills in planning and overseeing the work. The work was mostly done with Irish spades and was in sandy soil. During the same season, the same crew dug, laid, and filled 70 rods of four-foot drain, with an average width of 12 inches, in the worst type of clay soil, where they constantly had to use a pick. It took 35 days of labor to finish the job, costing 50 cents per rod for the labor alone. The minimum cost of draining 4 feet deep on our[218] own land is thus shown to be 21 cents per rod, and the maximum cost is 50 cents per rod, all the labor being done by hand. Half of these amounts would have been sufficient to complete the drains at a depth of 3 feet, as has already been demonstrated.
But the excavation here is much greater than is usual in England, Mr. Parkes giving the mean width of a four-foot drain but 10½ inches, instead of 14 or 12, as just given. Mr. Denton gives estimates of the cost, in England, of cutting and filling four-foot drains, which vary from 12 cents per rod upwards, according to the prices of labor, and other circumstances.
But the digging here is much deeper than what’s typical in England, with Mr. Parkes stating that the average width of a four-foot drain is only 10½ inches, instead of 14 or 12 as mentioned earlier. Mr. Denton provides estimates for the cost in England of digging and filling four-foot drains, which range from 12 cents per rod and up, depending on labor costs and other factors.
In New England, where labor may be fairly rated at one dollar per day, the cost of excavating and filling four-foot drains by hand labor, must vary from 20 to 50 cents per rod, according to the soil, and half those amounts for drains of three-foot depth.
In New England, where labor is typically valued at one dollar per day, the cost of digging and filling four-foot drains by hand labor should range from 20 to 50 cents per rod, depending on the soil, and half those amounts for three-foot deep drains.
Of the aid which may be derived from the use of draining plows, or of the common plow, or subsoil plow, our views may be found expressed under the appropriate heads. That drains will long continue to be opened in this vast country by hand labor, is not to be supposed, but we give our estimates of the expenses, at this first stage of our education in drainage.
Of the benefits that can come from using drainage plows, regular plows, or subsoil plows, our thoughts can be found under the relevant sections. It's hard to believe that drains will still be dug by hand in this vast country for much longer, but we provide our estimates of the costs at this initial stage of our learning about drainage.
3. Cost of the Tiles. Under the title of "The Cost of Tiles," we have given such information as can be at present procured, touching that matter. It will be assumed, in these estimates, that no tiles of less than 1½ inch bore will be used for any purpose, and for mains, usually those of three-inch bore are sufficient. The proportion of length of mains to that of minors is small, and, considering the probable reduction of prices, we will, for the present, assume $10 per 1,000 as the prices of such mixed sizes as may be used.
3. Cost of the Tiles. In the section titled "The Cost of Tiles," we have provided all the information currently available on this topic. For these estimates, we will assume that only tiles with a bore of at least 1½ inches will be used for any purpose, and for mains, three-inch bore tiles are usually sufficient. The length of mains compared to minors is small, and given the expected price decreases, we will currently estimate $10 per 1,000 for the various mixed sizes that may be used.
Add to this, the freight of them to a reasonable distance, and we have the cost of the tiles on the field. The[219] weight of two-inch tiles is usually rated at about 3 lbs. each, though they fall short of this weight until wet.
Add to this, the cost of transporting them a reasonable distance, and we have the total cost of the tiles on the field. The[219] weight of two-inch tiles is usually around 3 lbs. each, although they weigh less than that until they get wet.
4. Outlets. A small per-centage should be added to the items already noticed, for the cost of the general outfall, which should be secured with great care; although, from such examination as the writer has made in this country, and in England also, in the large majority of cases, drains are discharged with very little precaution to protect the outlets. Works completed under the charge of regular engineers, form an exception to this remark; and an item of 37 cents per acre, for iron outlets and masonry, is usually included in the estimated cost per acre of drainage.
4. Outlets. A small percentage should be added to the previously mentioned items for the cost of the general outfall, which should be secured with great care. However, based on the writer's observations in this country and in England, in most cases, drains are discharged with very little caution to protect the outlets. Projects completed under the supervision of professional engineers are an exception to this observation, and a charge of 37 cents per acre for iron outlets and masonry is typically included in the estimated cost per acre for drainage.
5. Collars. It is not known to the author that collars have been at all used in America, except at the New York Central Park, in 1858; round pipes, upon which they are commonly used abroad, when used on any, not being yet much in use here.
5. Collars. The author is not aware of any collars being used in America, except at New York Central Park in 1858; round pipes, which are commonly used elsewhere, are not widely in use here yet.
In the estimates of Mr. Denton, in his tables, collars are set down at about half the cost of the mixed tiles. The bore of them being large enough to receive the end of the tile, increases the price in proportion to the increase in size. It is believed, however, that a smaller size of tiles may prudently be used with collars than without, because the collars keep the tiles perfectly in line, and freely admit water, while they exclude roots, sand, and other obstructions. A drain laid with one and a half inch tiles with collars is, no doubt, better in any soil than two-inch tiles without collars. Some compensation for the cost of collars may thus be found in the less price of the smaller tiles.
In Mr. Denton's estimates, shown in his tables, collars are listed at about half the cost of the mixed tiles. Since their bore is large enough to fit the end of the tile, the price increases with the size. However, it's believed that using smaller tiles with collars may be a smarter choice than using them without, because the collars keep the tiles perfectly aligned and allow water to flow freely while blocking roots, sand, and other debris. A drain installed with one and a half inch tiles and collars is definitely better in any type of soil compared to two-inch tiles without collars. Therefore, some savings on the cost of collars could be offset by the lower price of the smaller tiles.
6. Laying. The cost of laying tiles is so trifling as hardly to be worth estimating, except to show its insignificance. The estimate, by English engineers, is two cents per rod for "pipe laying and finishing." What is included in "finishing," does not appear. From the personal observations of the writer, it is believed that an[220] active man may lay from 60 to 100 rods of tiles per day, in ditches well prepared. Indeed, we have seen our man James, lay twelve rods of two-inch tiles, in a four-foot ditch, in forty-five minutes, when he was not aware that he was working against time. This is at the rate of sixteen rods an hour, which would give just 160 rods, or a half-mile, in a day of ten hours.
6. Laying. The cost of laying tiles is so minimal that it's hardly worth estimating, except to highlight its unimportance. According to English engineers, the estimate is two cents per rod for "pipe laying and finishing." What exactly is included in "finishing" isn't clear. Based on personal observations, it seems that an[220] active person can lay between 60 to 100 rods of tiles each day in properly prepared ditches. In fact, we witnessed our worker James lay twelve rods of two-inch tiles in a four-foot ditch in just forty-five minutes, without realizing he was racing against the clock. This amounts to sixteen rods an hour, which would total 160 rods, or half a mile, in a ten-hour workday.
7. Number of Tiles to the Acre. The number of tiles used depends, of course, upon the distances apart of the drains, and upon the length of the tiles used.
7. Number of Tiles to the Acre. The amount of tiles needed varies based on how far apart the drains are and the length of the tiles being used.
The following table gives the number of tiles of various length, per acre, required at different intervals:
The table below shows the number of tiles of different lengths needed per acre at various intervals:
Intervals between the Drains, in feet. |
Twelve inch Pipe. |
Thirteen inch Pipe. |
Fourteen inch Pipe. |
Fifteen inch Pipe. |
---|---|---|---|---|
15 | 2904 | 2680 | 2489 | 2323 |
18 | 2420 | 2234 | 2074 | 1936 |
21 | 2074 | 1915 | 1778 | 1659 |
24 | 1815 | 1676 | 1555 | 1452 |
27 | 1613 | 1489 | 1383 | 1290 |
30 | 1452 | 1340 | 1244 | 1161 |
33 | 1320 | 1219 | 1131 | 1056 |
36 | 1210 | 1117 | 1037 | 968 |
39 | 1117 | 1031 | 957 | 893 |
42 | 1037 | 958 | 888 | 829 |
The following table gives the number of rods per acre of drains at different distances:
The following table shows the number of rods of drains per acre at various distances:
Intervals between the Drains, in feet. | Rods per acre. |
---|---|
15 | 176 |
18 | 146-2/3 |
21 | 125-5/7 |
24 | 110 |
27 | 97-7/9 |
30 | 88 |
33 | 80 |
36 | 73-1/3 |
39 | 67-9/13 |
42 | 62-6/7 |
[221]It may be remarked here, that tiles, moulded of the same length, vary nearly two inches when burned, according to the severity of the heat. It may be suggested, too, that the length of the tile, in the use of any machine, is entirely at the option of the maker. It is not, perhaps, an insult to our common humanity, to suggest to buyers the propriety of measuring the length as well as calibre of tiles before purchasing. In the estimates which will be made in this detail, it will be assumed that tiles will lay one foot each, with allowance for imperfections and breakage. This is as near as possible to accuracy, according to our best observation; and, besides, there is convenience in this simple estimate of one tile to one foot, which is important in practice.
[221]It’s worth noting that tiles made to the same length can vary by almost two inches after being fired, depending on how intense the heat is. It's also important to point out that the length of the tile when using any machine is entirely up to the manufacturer. It’s not really offensive to our shared humanity to suggest that buyers should consider measuring both the length and thickness of tiles before buying. When making these assessments, we’ll assume that tiles will cover one foot each, allowing for imperfections and breakage. This is as accurate as we can get based on our observations; plus, this straightforward estimate of one tile per foot is practical and convenient.
We have now the data from which we may make some tolerably safe estimates of the cost of drainage. With labor at one dollar per day, and tiles at $10 per 1,000, or one cent each, or one cent a foot, and ditches four feet deep, opened and filled at one-third of a day's labor to the rod, we may set down the principal items of the cost of drainage by the rod, as follows:
We now have the information we need to make fairly reliable estimates of drainage costs. With labor priced at one dollar a day and tiles at $10 per 1,000 (or one cent each, or one cent per foot), and ditches being four feet deep, dug and filled at one-third of a day's labor per rod, we can outline the main costs of drainage per rod as follows:
Cutting and filling per rod | 33⅓ | cts. |
Tiles | 16⅔ | " |
50 |
This is putting the tiles at one cent a foot, and the labor at two cents a foot, or just twice as much as the cost of tiles, and it brings a total of half a dollar a rod, all of them numbers easily remembered, and convenient for calculation.
This is setting the tile cost at one cent per foot, and the labor at two cents per foot, which is twice the price of the tiles, making a total of fifty cents per rod. These figures are easy to remember and convenient for calculations.
By reference to the table giving the number of rods to the acre, the cost of labor and tiles per acre may be at once found, by taking half the number of rods in dollars. At 42 feet distance, the cost will be $31.42 per acre; at[222] 30 feet distance, $44; and at 60 feet, half that amount, or $22 per acre.
By looking at the table that shows the number of rods per acre, you can quickly determine the cost of labor and tiles per acre by taking half the number of rods in dollars. At 42 feet apart, the cost will be $31.42 per acre; at[222] 30 feet apart, it will be $44; and at 60 feet, it will be half that, or $22 per acre.
Our views as to the frequency of drains, may be found under the appropriate head.
Our thoughts on how often drains should be used can be found under the relevant section.
Our estimate thus far, is of four-foot drains. We have shown, under the head of the "Depth of Drains," that the cost of cutting and filling a four-foot drain is double that of cutting and filling a three-foot drain. There is no doubt, that, after all the good advice we have given on this subject, many, who "grow wiser than their teachers are," will set aside the teachings of the best draining engineers in the world, and insist that three feet deep is enough, and persist in so laying their tiles.
Our current estimate is for four-foot drains. We've demonstrated, in the section titled "Depth of Drains," that the expense of digging and refilling a four-foot drain is twice that of a three-foot drain. Undoubtedly, despite all the valuable advice we've provided on this topic, many who think they know better than their teachers will ignore the insights of the top drainage engineers and insist that three feet deep is sufficient, continuing to install their tiles at that depth.
This shallowness will reduce the cost of labor about one half, so that we shall have the cost of labor and tiles equal—one cent a foot, making 33? cents per rod, or one-third of a dollar, instead of one-half a dollar per rod. To the cost of labor and tiles, we should add a fair estimate of the cost of the other items of engineering and outlets. These are trifling matters, which English tables, as has been shown, estimate together, at about $1.67 per acre.
This shallowness will cut labor costs by about half, so that the cost of labor and tiles will become equal—one cent per foot, totaling 33 cents per rod, or one-third of a dollar, instead of fifty cents per rod. We should also add a reasonable estimate of the costs for other engineering items and outlets to the labor and tile costs. These are minor issues, which English calculations, as shown, estimate together at around $1.67 per acre.
Briefly to recapitulate the elements of computation of the cost of drainage, we find them to be these: the price of labor, the price of tiles, and freight of them; the character of the soil, the depth of the drains, and their distance apart, with the incidental expense of engineering and of outfalls, and the large additional cost of collars, where they are deemed necessary.
To quickly summarize the factors that determine the cost of drainage, we identify the following: labor costs, the price of tiles, and their shipping costs; the type of soil, the depth of the drains, and the spacing between them, along with additional expenses for engineering and outfalls, and the significant extra cost of collars when they are considered necessary.
COMPARATIVE COST OF TILE AND STONE DRAINS.
It is not possible to answer, with precision, the question so often asked, as to the comparative cost of drainage with tiles and stones.
It’s not possible to accurately answer the frequently asked question about the comparative cost of drainage using tiles versus stones.
The estimates given of the cost of tile drains, are based upon the writer's own experience, upon his own farm[223] mainly; and the mean width of four-foot tile drains, may be assumed to be 14 inches, instead of 10½ inches, as actually practiced in England.
The cost estimates for tile drains are based on the author's own experience, primarily from his own farm[223]; and the average width of four-foot tile drains can be considered 14 inches, rather than the 10½ inches that is typically used in England.
For a stone drain of almost any form, certainly for any regular water-course laid with stones, our ditch must be at least 21 inches wide from top to bottom. This is just 50 per cent, more than our own estimate, and 100 per cent., or double the English estimate for tile drains.
For any kind of stone drain, especially for a regular waterway made of stones, our ditch needs to be at least 21 inches wide from top to bottom. That's 50% more than our original estimate and double the English estimate for tile drains.
It will require at least two ox-cart loads of stones to the rod, to construct any sort of a stone drain, costing, perhaps, 25 cents a load for picking up and hauling. In most cases, where the stones are not on the farm, it will cost twice that sum. We will say 25 cents per rod for laying the stones, though this is a low estimate. We have, then, for cutting and filling the ditch, 50 cents per rod, 50 cents for hauling stone, and for laying, 25 cents per rod, making $1.25 a rod for a stone drain, against 50 cents per rod for tile drains.
It will take at least two ox-cart loads of stones for every rod to build any kind of stone drain, costing about 25 cents per load for picking them up and hauling. In most situations, where the stones aren't on the farm, it will cost twice that amount. Let’s estimate 25 cents per rod for laying the stones, although that's a low estimate. So, we have 50 cents per rod for cutting and filling the ditch, 50 cents for hauling the stone, and 25 cents per rod for laying it, adding up to $1.25 per rod for a stone drain, compared to 50 cents per rod for tile drains.
Then we have a large surplus of earth, two cartloads to the rod, displaced by the two loads of stone, to be disposed of; and in case of the tiles, we have just earth enough. There are many other considerations in favor of tiles: such as the cutting up of the ground by teaming heavy loads of stones; the greater permanency of tiles; and the fact that they furnish no harbor for mice and other vermin, as the English call such small beasts. In favor of stones, is the fact, that often they are on the land, and must be moved, and it is convenient to dispose of them in the ditches.
Then we have a large surplus of dirt, two cartloads for each rod, caused by the two loads of stone that need to be dealt with; and in the case of the tiles, we have just enough dirt. There are many other reasons to choose tiles: like the disruption of the ground caused by hauling heavy stone loads; the greater durability of tiles; and the fact that they don't provide shelter for mice and other pests, as the English call those little creatures. On the other hand, one advantage of stones is that they are often already on the land and need to be moved, so it’s convenient to get rid of them in the ditches.
Again, there are many parts of the country where tiles are not to be procured, without great cost of freight, and where labor is abundant at certain seasons, and money scarce at all seasons, so that the question is really between stone drains and no drains.
Again, there are many areas of the country where tiles can't be obtained without high shipping costs, and where labor is plentiful during certain times of the year, but money is hard to come by all year round, so the choice is essentially between stone drains and no drains at all.
Stone drains, if laid very deep, are far more secure than[224] when shallow; because, if shallow, they are usually ruined by the breaking in of water at the top, in the Spring time, by the action of frost, and by the mining of mice and moles. If laid four feet deep, and the earth rammed hard above the stones, and rounded on the surface to throw off surface water, they may be found efficient and permanent.
Stone drains, when installed very deep, are much more reliable than[224] when they're shallow; because, if they're shallow, they tend to get damaged by water breaking in from the top in the spring, frost action, and the tunneling of mice and moles. If they are set four feet deep, with the ground packed firmly above the stones and shaped on the surface to direct away surface water, they can be effective and long-lasting.
The conclusion, however, is, that where it can be procured, at any reasonable cost, drainage with tiles will generally cost less than one-half the expense of drainage with stones, and be incomparably more satisfactory in the end.
The conclusion is that where it can be obtained at a reasonable cost, drainage with tiles will usually cost less than half the expense of drainage with stones and will be far more satisfactory in the end.
CHAPTER XI[225]
DRAINING IMPLEMENTS.
Unreasonable Expectations about Draining Tools.—Levelling Instruments; Guessing not Accurate.—Level by a Square.—Spirit Level.—Span, or A Level.—Grading by Lines.—Boning-rod.—Challoner's Drain Level.—Spades and Shovels.—Long-handled Shovel.—Irish Spade, Description and Cut.—Bottoming Tools.—Narrow Spades.—English Bottoming Tools.—Pipe-layer.—Pipe-laying Illustrated.—Pick-axes.—Drain Gauge.—Drain Plows, and Ditch-Diggers.—Fowler's Drain Plow.—Pratt's Ditch-Digger.—McEwan's Drain Plow.—Routt's Drain Plow.
Unreasonable Expectations about Draining Tools.—Leveling Instruments; Guessing isn’t Accurate.—Level by a Square.—Spirit Level.—Span, or A Level.—Grading by Lines.—Boning-rod.—Challoner's Drain Level.—Spades and Shovels.—Long-handled Shovel.—Irish Spade, Description and Cut.—Bottoming Tools.—Narrow Spades.—English Bottoming Tools.—Pipe-layer.—Pipe-laying Illustrated.—Pick-axes.—Drain Gauge.—Drain Plows, and Ditch-Diggers.—Fowler's Drain Plow.—Pratt's Ditch-Digger.—McEwan's Drain Plow.—Routt's Drain Plow.
It seems to be a characteristic of Americans, to be dissatisfied with every recent improvement in art or science, and the greater the step in advance of former times, the more captious and critical do we become. There is many a good lady, who cannot tolerate a sewing-machine, although she knows it will do the work of ten seamstresses, because it will not sew on buttons and work buttonholes! Most of us are very much out of temper with the magnetic telegraph, just now, because it does not bring us the Court news from England every morning before breakfast, though we have hourly dispatches from Washington, New Orleans, and St. Louis; and, returning to our moutons, everybody is finding fault with us just now, because we cannot tell them of some universal, all-penetrating, cheap, strong, simple, enduring little implement, by means of which any kind of a laborer, Scotch, Irish, or Yankee, may conveniently open all kinds of drains in all kinds of land, whether sand, hard-pan, gravel, or clay.[226]
It seems to be typical of Americans to be unhappy with every recent advancement in art or science, and the more we progress beyond the past, the more critical and picky we become. There are many ladies who can't stand a sewing machine, even though they know it can do the work of ten seamstresses, simply because it doesn't sew on buttons or create buttonholes! Most of us are pretty annoyed with the telegraph right now because it doesn’t deliver the Court news from England every morning before breakfast, even though we receive updates from Washington, New Orleans, and St. Louis every hour. And returning to our moutons, everyone is finding fault with us at the moment because we can’t provide them with some universal, all-encompassing, cheap, strong, simple, and durable tool that would let any kind of worker—whether Scottish, Irish, or American—easily open all kinds of drains in all types of land, be it sand, hardpan, gravel, or clay.[226]
Having personally inquired and examined, touching draining tools in England, and having been solicited by an extensive agricultural implement house in Boston, to furnish them a list and description of a complete set of draining tools, and feeling the obligation which seemed to be imposed on us, to know all about this matter, we wrote to Mr. Denton, one of the first draining engineers in the world, to send us a list, with drawings and descriptions of such implements as he finds most useful, or, if more convenient the implements themselves.
Having personally looked into and examined drainage tools in England, and having been asked by a large agricultural equipment company in Boston to provide a complete list and description of these tools, we felt it was our responsibility to fully understand this subject. So, we wrote to Mr. Denton, one of the leading drainage engineers in the world, requesting a list with drawings and descriptions of the most useful tools, or, if it's easier, the tools themselves.
Mr. Denton kindly replied to our inquiry, and his answer may be taken as the best evidence upon this point. He says:
Mr. Denton kindly responded to our inquiry, and his answer serves as the best evidence on this matter. He says:
"As to tools, it is the same with them as it is with the art of draining itself—too much rule and too much drawing upon paper; all very right to begin with, but very prejudicial to progress. I employ, as engineer to the General Land Drainage Company, and on my private account, during the drainage season, as many as 2,000 men, and it is an actual fact, that not one of them uses the set of tools figured in print. I have frequently purchased a number of sets of the Birmingham tools, and sent them down on extensive works. The laborers would purchase a few of the smaller tools, such as Nos. 290, 291, and 301, figured in Morton's excellent Cyclopædia of Agriculture, and would try them, and then order others of the country blacksmith, differing in several respects; less weighty and much less costly, and, moreover, much better as working tools. All I require of the cutters, is, that the bottom of the drain should be evenly cut, to fit the size of the pipe. The rest of the work takes care of itself; for a good workman will economize his labor for his own sake, by moving as little earth as practicable; thus, for instance, a first-class cutter, in clays, will get down four feet with a twelve-inch opening, ordinarily; if he wishes to show off, he will sacrifice his own comfort to appearance, and will do it with a ten-inch opening."
"As for tools, they're similar to the art of drainage itself—too many rules and too much focus on paper work; it's fine to start with, but really harmful to progress. I manage, as an engineer for the General Land Drainage Company, and on my own projects during the drainage season, around 2,000 workers, and it's a fact that not a single one of them uses the sets of tools shown in publications. I've often bought several sets of the Birmingham tools and sent them to large projects. The laborers would buy a few of the smaller tools, like Nos. 290, 291, and 301, shown in Morton's excellent Cyclopædia of Agriculture, give them a try, and then order alternatives from the local blacksmith, which were different in several ways; lighter, much cheaper, and actually better as working tools. All I ask from the cutters is that the bottom of the drain is cut evenly to fit the size of the pipe. The rest of the job takes care of itself; a skilled worker will save on labor for his own benefit by moving as little earth as possible; for example, a top-notch cutter in clay can go down four feet with a twelve-inch opening, typically; if he wants to show off, he'll compromise his own comfort for appearance and do it with a ten-inch opening."
Having thus "freed our mind" by way of preliminary, we propose to take up our subject, and pursue it as practically and quietly as possible to the end. It may be well, perhaps, first to suggest by way of explanation of[227] Mr. Denton's letter, above quoted, that drains are usually opened in England by the yard, or rod, the laborer finding his own tools.
Having "freed our minds" with this introduction, we now plan to dive into our topic and explore it as straightforwardly and calmly as we can until we reach the conclusion. It might be helpful to explain, regarding [227] Mr. Denton's earlier mentioned letter, that in England, drains are typically opened by the yard or rod, with the laborer providing their own tools.
As has been intimated, the implements convenient for draining, depend on many circumstances. They depend upon the character of the earth to be moved. A sharp, light spade, which may work rapidly and well in a light loam or sand, may be entirely unfit to drive into a stiff clay; and the fancy bottoming tools which may cut out a soft clay or sand in nicely-measured slices, will be found quite too delicate for a hard-pan or gravel, where the pick-axe alone can open a passage.
As has been suggested, the tools suitable for drainage depend on various factors. They rely on the type of soil being worked with. A sharp, lightweight shovel that works quickly and efficiently in loose soil or sand may be completely unsuitable for digging into tough clay. Similarly, specialized tools designed for cutting through soft clay or sand in precise layers will be too fragile for hard-packed soil or gravel, where only a pickaxe can create an opening.
The implements again must be suited to the workman who handles it. Henry Ward Beecher, in speaking of creeds, which he, on another occasion, had said were "the skins of religion set up and stuffed," remarked, that it was of more importance that a man should know how to make a practical use of his faith, than that he should subscribe to many articles; for, said he, "I have seen many a man who could do more at carpenter's work with one old jack-knife, than another could do with a whole chest of tools!"
The tools need to match the person using them. Henry Ward Beecher, when discussing creeds, which he had previously referred to as "the skins of religion set up and stuffed," pointed out that it’s more important for someone to know how to practically apply their faith than to agree with a lot of formal statements. He said, "I've seen many guys who could accomplish more in carpentry with just one old jackknife than others could with a whole toolbox!"
What can an Irishman do with a chopping ax, and what cannot a Yankee do with it? Who ever saw a Scotchman or an Irishman who could not cut a straight ditch with a spade, and who ever saw a Yankee who could or would cut a ditch straight with any tool? One man works best with a long-handled spade, another prefers a short handle; one drives it into the earth with his right foot, another with his left. A laboring man, in general, works most easily with such tools as he is accustomed to handle; while theorizing implement-makers, working out their pattern by the light of reason, may produce such a tool as a man ought to work with, without adapting it at all to the capacity or taste of the laborer. A man should be measured for his tools, as much as for his garment, and not be[228] expected to fit himself to another's notions more than to another's coat.
What can an Irishman do with an ax, and what can’t a Yankee do with it? Who has ever seen a Scot or an Irishman who couldn’t dig a straight ditch with a spade, and who has ever seen a Yankee who could or would dig a ditch straight with any tool? One person works best with a long-handled spade, while another prefers a short handle; one pushes it into the ground with his right foot, the other with his left. Generally, a laborer finds it easiest to work with tools he’s used to; meanwhile, tool designers, who come up with their designs based on theory, might create a tool that a person *should* be able to use, without considering the actual needs or preferences of the worker. A person should be fitted for their tools just like for their clothes, and shouldn’t be expected to adapt to someone else’s ideas any more than to someone else’s coat.
If the land-owner proposes to act as his own engineer, the first instrument he will want to use is a Spirit Level, or some other contrivance by which he may ascertain the variations of the surface of his field. The natural way for a Yankee to get at the grades is to guess at them, and this, practically, is what is usually done. Ditches are opened where there appears to be a descent, and if there is water running, the rise is estimated by its current; and if there is no water rising in the drain, a bucketfull is occasionally poured in to guide the laborer in his work. No one who has not tested the accuracy, or, rather, inaccuracy, of his judgment, as to the levels of fields, can at all appreciate the deceitfulness of appearances on this point. The human eye will see straight; but it will not see level without a guide. It forms conclusions by comparison; and the lines of upland, of forest tops and of distant hills, all conspire to confuse the judgment, so that it is quite common for a brook to appear to the eye to run up hill, even when it has a quick current. A few trials with a spirit-level will cure any man of his conceit on this subject.
If a landowner decides to be his own engineer, the first tool he’ll want to use is a Spirit Level, or some other device to check the surface changes in his field. The usual method for a Yankee to determine the grades is to just guess, which is typically what happens. Ditches are dug where there seems to be a slope, and if there’s flowing water, the incline is estimated by its current; if no water is coming up in the drain, a bucketful is sometimes poured in to help the worker with his task. Anyone who hasn’t tested the accuracy, or really the inaccuracy, of their judgment regarding field levels can’t truly understand how misleading appearances can be in this regard. The human eye can see straight, but it can’t determine level without a reference. It draws conclusions based on comparisons; the lines of high ground, tops of trees, and distant hills all mix together to confuse judgment, so it’s not uncommon for a brook to appear to be flowing uphill, even when it has a strong current. A few tries with a spirit level will quickly humble anyone on this topic.
And so it is as to the regular inclination of the bottom of drains. It is desirable not only to have an inclination all the way, but a regular inclination, as nearly as possible, especially if the descent be small. Workmen are very apt to work at a uniform depth from the surface, and so give the bottom of the drain the same variations as the surface line; and thus at one point there may be a fall of one inch in a rod; at another, twice that fall; and at another, a dead level, or even a hollow. On our own farm, we have found, in twelve rods, a variation of a foot in the bottom line of a drain opened by skillful workmen on a nearly level field, where they had no water to guide them, and where they had supposed their fall was regular throughout.[229]
And so it is with the consistent slope of drain bottoms. It’s important not only to maintain a slope throughout but also to keep it as even as possible, especially when the drop is minimal. Workers tend to dig at a uniform depth from the surface, which can result in the bottom of the drain having the same irregularities as the surface line. This means that at one point, there might be a drop of one inch over a rod; at another point, a drop of two inches; and in some spots, it could be completely level or even dip down. On our farm, we discovered that over twelve rods, there was a difference of a foot in the bottom line of a drain created by skilled workers on a nearly flat field, where they didn’t have water to inform them and assumed their slope was consistent throughout.[229]
The following sketch shows the difference between lines of tiles laid with and without instruments. Next to guessing at the fall in our field, may be placed a little contrivance, of which we have made use sufficiently to become satisfied of its want of practical accuracy. It is thus figured and described in the excellent treatise of Thomas, on Farm Implements.
The following sketch illustrates the difference between lines of tiles laid with tools and those laid without them. Beside the estimation of the slope in our field, we can use a small device that we've used enough times to be sure it lacks practical accuracy. It is depicted and explained in the excellent book by Thomas on Farm Implements.

Fig. 54.
Fig. 54.
"A is a common square, placed in a slit in the top of the stake B. By means of a plumb-line the square is brought to a level, when a thumbscrew, at C, fixes it fast. If the square is two feet long, and is so carefully adjusted as not to vary more than the twentieth of an inch from a true level, which is easily accomplished, then a twentieth of an inch in two feet will be one inch in forty feet—a sufficient degree of accuracy for many cases."
"A is a square that's commonly set in a notch at the top of the stake B. Using a plumb line, the square is leveled, and then a thumbscrew at C secures it in place. If the square is two feet long and is adjusted carefully enough to remain within a twentieth of an inch from a true level—which is an easy task—then a difference of a twentieth of an inch in two feet translates to one inch in forty feet, which is accurate enough for many situations."

Fig. 55.—Square and Plumb-Level.
Fig. 55.—Square and Level Tool.
We do not so much object to the principle of the above level, as to its practical working. We find it difficult, without cross sights, to take an accurate level with any instrument. However, those who are used to rifle-shooting may hit tolerably near the mark with the square. Mr. Thomas only claims that it is accurate enough "for many cases."
We don’t really disagree with the principle of the above level; it’s more about how it works in practice. We find it hard to get an accurate level with any instrument without cross sights. However, people who are experienced in rifle shooting might get pretty close to the target using the square. Mr. Thomas only says it’s accurate enough "for many cases."
A proper spirit-level, such as is used by engineers of railroads and canals, attached to a telescope, is the best of all instruments. "So great is the perfection of this[230] instrument," says the writer just quoted, "that separate lines of levels have been run with it, for sixty miles, without varying two-thirds of an inch for the whole distance." A cheap and convenient spirit-level, for our purpose, is thus constructed.
A quality spirit level, like the ones used by railroad and canal engineers, when attached to a telescope, is the best tool available. "The precision of this[230] instrument is so impressive," says the author previously mentioned, "that separate leveling lines have been measured with it for sixty miles, with only a two-thirds of an inch variation over the entire length." For our needs, a simple and effective spirit level can be made this way.
It is furnished with eye sights, a b, and, when in use, is placed into a framing of brass which operates as a spring to adjust it to the level position, d, by the action of the large-headed brass screw, c. A stud is affixed to the framing, and pushed firmly into a gimlet-hole in the top of the short rod, which is pushed or driven into the ground at the spot from whence the level is desired to be ascertained. It need scarcely be mentioned, that the height of the eye sight, from the guard, is to be deducted from the height of observation, which quantity is easily obtained by having the rod marked off in inches and feet; but it may be mentioned, that this instrument should be used in all cases of draining on level ground, even when one is confident that he knows the fall of the ground; for the eye is a very deceitful monitor for informing you of the levelness of ground. It is so light as to admit of being carried in the pocket, whilst its rod may be used as a staff or cane.
It comes equipped with sight levels, a b, and when in use, is inserted into a brass frame that acts as a spring to keep it level, d, thanks to the large-headed brass screw, c. A stud is attached to the frame and firmly pushed into a small hole at the top of a short rod, which is inserted into the ground at the location where the level needs to be determined. It’s important to note that the height of the sight from the guard must be subtracted from the height of observation, which can easily be measured by marking the rod in inches and feet. However, it’s worth mentioning that this tool should be used in all cases of drainage on flat land, even when one is sure of the ground's slope, as the eye can be a misleading judge of ground level. It is light enough to fit in your pocket, and its rod can also serve as a staff or cane.

Fig. 56.—Spirit Level.
Fig. 56.—Spirit Level.
A staff of ten feet in length, graduated in feet and inches, and held by an attendant at the various points of observation, is necessary in the use of the spirit-level in the field. A painted target, arranged with a slide to be moved up and down on this staff, and held by a thumbscrew, will be found useful.[231]
A ten-foot long staff, marked in feet and inches, is required for using the spirit level in the field, with an attendant at each observation point. A painted target, designed with a slide that can be moved up and down on this staff and secured by a thumbscrew, will be helpful.[231]
We have made for our own use a level like the above, and find it sufficiently accurate for drainage purposes. Small spirit-levels set in iron can be had at the hardware shops for twenty cents each, and can be readily attached to wood by a screw, in constructing our implement; or a spirit-level set in mahogany, of suitable size, may be procured for a half dollar, and any person, handy with tools, can do the rest. The sights should be arranged both ways, with a slit cut with a chisel through the brass or tin, and an oblong opening at each end. The eye is placed at the slit, and sight is taken by a hair or fine thread, drawn across the opening at the other end. Then, by changing ends, and sighting through the other end at a given object, any error in the instrument may be detected. The hair or thread may be held in place by a little wax, and moved up or down till it is carefully adjusted. The instrument should turn upon the staff in all directions, so that the level of a whole field, so far as it is within range, may be taken from one position.
We built a leveling tool for our own use that works well for drainage tasks. You can find small spirit levels mounted in iron at hardware stores for twenty cents each, and they're easy to attach to wood with a screw when making our tool. Alternatively, you can buy a spirit level made of mahogany for fifty cents, and anyone skilled with tools can finish the job. The sights should be set up in both directions, with a slot cut with a chisel through the brass or tin, and an elongated opening at each end. You look through the slot and aim using a hair or fine thread stretched across the opening at the opposite end. By switching ends and aiming through the other side at a specific target, you can spot any errors in the instrument. You can secure the hair or thread with a bit of wax and adjust it up or down until it's just right. The instrument should rotate on the staff in all directions, allowing you to take the level of an entire field, as much as it fits within range, from one spot.

Fig. 57.
Staff and Target.
Fig. 57.
Team and Goal.
To maintain a uniform grade in the bottom of a drain so as to economize the fall, and distribute it equally through the whole length, several different instruments and means may be adopted. The first which we will figure, is what is called the Span, or A Level. Such a level may be easily constructed of common inch-board. If it be desired to note the fall in feet, the span may conveniently be ten feet. If a notation in rods be preferred, the span should be a rod, or half rod long.
To keep a consistent level at the bottom of a drain to save on slope and spread it evenly along the entire length, various tools and methods can be used. The first one we'll illustrate is called a Span, or A Level. This level can easily be made from regular inch-board. If you want to measure the drop in feet, the span can be conveniently ten feet long. If you prefer to measure in rods, the span should be a rod or half a rod in length.
The two feet being placed on a floor, and ascertained[232] to be perfectly level by a spirit-level, the plumb-line will hang in the centre, where a distinct mark should be made on the cross-bar. Then place a block of wood, exactly an inch thick, under one leg, and mark the place where the line crosses the bar. Put another block an inch thick under the same leg, and again mark where the line crosses the bar, and so on as far as is thought necessary. Then put the blocks under the other leg in the same manner, and mark the cross-bar. If the span be ten feet, the plumb-line will indicate upon the bar, by the mark which it crosses, the rise or fall in inches, in ten feet. If the span be a rod, the line will indicate the number of inches per rod of the rise or fall.
The two feet are placed on the floor and confirmed[232] to be completely level using a spirit level, the plumb line will hang in the center, where a clear mark should be made on the cross bar. Then, place a block of wood that's exactly an inch thick under one leg and mark where the line crosses the bar. Put another one-inch thick block under the same leg and mark again where the line crosses the bar, and continue this process as needed. Next, put the blocks under the other leg in the same way and mark the cross bar. If the span is ten feet, the plumb line will show on the bar, by the mark it crosses, the rise or fall in inches for every ten feet. If the span is a rod, the line will indicate the number of inches per rod for the rise or fall.

Fig. 58.—Span, or A Level.
Fig. 58.—Span or A Level.
This instrument is used thus: The fall of the ditch from end to end being ascertained by the spirit-level, and the length also, the fall per rod, or per one hundred feet, may be computed. The span is then placed in the bottom of the drain, from time to time, to guide the workman, or for accurate inspection of the finished cut. We have constructed and used this level, and found it very convenient to test the accuracy of the workmen, who had opened drains in our absence. A ten-foot span will be found as large as can be conveniently carried about the farm.
This tool is used like this: First, determine the drop of the ditch from one end to the other with a spirit level, and note the length as well; this allows you to calculate the drop per rod or per one hundred feet. The span is then placed at the bottom of the drain periodically to guide the worker or to accurately inspect the completed cut. We’ve built and used this level and found it very useful for checking the work quality of the workers who dug drains while we weren't there. A ten-foot span is about as large as you can easily carry around the farm.
For the accurate grading of the bottom of drains, as the work proceeds, we have in practice found nothing so convenient and accurate as the arrangement which we are about to illustrate.[233]
For accurately grading the bottom of drains as the work progresses, we've found nothing as convenient and precise as the setup we are about to show.[233]
The object is simply to draw a line parallel with the proposed bottom of the drain, for the laborers to work under, so that they, as they proceed, may measure down from it, as a guide to depth. Having with the spirit-level, ascertained the fall from end to end of the drain, a short stake is set at each end, and a line is drawn from one to the other at the requisite height, and supported by the cross-pieces, at suitable distances, to prevent the sagging of the line.
The goal is to draw a line parallel to the planned bottom of the drain, so the workers can measure down from it as they dig, using it as a depth guide. After using a spirit level to check the slope from one end of the drain to the other, short stakes are placed at each end. A line is then stretched between the stakes at the right height, supported by cross-pieces at appropriate intervals to keep the line from drooping.

Fig. 59.—Grading Trenches by Lines.
Fig. 59.—Grading Trenches with Lines.
Suppose the drain to be ten rods long, and that it is intended to cut it four feet deep, the natural fall being, from end to end, sufficient. We drive a stake at each end of the drain, high enough to attach to it a line three feet above the surface, which will be seven feet above the bottom of the finished drain—high enough to be above the heads of the cutters, when standing near the bottom.
Suppose the drain is ten rods long, and we plan to dig it four feet deep, with a natural slope being adequate from one end to the other. We drive a stake at each end of the drain, tall enough to tie a line three feet above the surface, which will be seven feet above the bottom of the finished drain—tall enough to be above the heads of the workers when they are standing near the bottom.
Before drawing the line, the drain may be nearly completed. Then drive the intermediate stakes, with the projecting arms, which we will call squares, on one side of the drain, carefully sighting from one end of the stake to the other, at the point fixed for the line, and driving the squares till they are exactly even. Then attach a strong small cord, not larger than a chalk line, to one of the stakes, and draw it as tight as it will bear, and secure it[234] at the other stake. The line is now directly over the middle of the drain, seven feet from the bottom. Give the cutters, then, a rod seven feet long, and let them cut just deep enough for the rod to stand on the bottom and touch the line. Practically, this has been found by the author, the most accurate and satisfactory method of bringing drains to a regular grade.
Before marking the line, the drain might be almost finished. Then, drive the intermediate stakes with the protruding arms, which we'll refer to as squares, on one side of the drain, making sure to line up from one end of the stake to the other at the designated point for the line, and drive the squares until they're perfectly level. Next, attach a strong small cord, no thicker than a chalk line, to one of the stakes, pull it as tight as possible, and secure it at the other stake. The line is now right above the center of the drain, seven feet from the bottom. Give the workers a seven-foot rod, and let them cut just deep enough for the rod to rest on the bottom and touch the line. In practice, the author has found this to be the most accurate and effective way to ensure drains are at a consistent grade.
Instead of a line, after the end stakes have been placed, a boning rod, as it is called, may be used thus: A staff is used, with a cross-piece at the top, and long enough, when resting on the proper bottom of the drain, to reach to the level of the marks on the stakes, three feet above the surface. Cross-pieces nailed to the stakes are the most conspicuous marks. A person stands at one stake sighting along to the other; a second person then holds the rod upright in the ditch, just touching the bottom, and carries it thus along. If, while it is moved along, its top is always in a line with the cross-bars on the end stakes, the fall is uniform; if it rise above, the bottom of the drain must be lowered; if it fall below, the bottom of the drain must be raised. This may be convenient enough for mere inspection of works, but it requires two persons besides the cutters, to finish the drain by this mode; whereas, with the lines and squares, any laborer can complete the work with exactness.
Instead of using a line after placing the end stakes, a boning rod can be utilized like this: A staff is equipped with a cross-piece at the top and is long enough to rest on the proper bottom of the drain while reaching the level of the marks on the stakes, which are three feet above the surface. Cross-pieces nailed to the stakes serve as the most noticeable markers. One person stands at one stake, looking down to the other stake; meanwhile, a second person holds the rod upright in the ditch, just touching the bottom, and moves it along. If, as it's moved, the top of the rod stays in line with the crossbars on the end stakes, then the slope is even; if it rises above, the bottom of the drain needs to be lowered; if it falls below, the bottom of the drain needs to be raised. This method might be sufficient for just inspecting the work, but it requires two people in addition to the laborers to finish the drain this way. In contrast, using lines and squares allows any worker to complete the job accurately.
Another mode of levelling, by means of a mammoth mason's level, with an improvement, was invented by Colonel Challoner, and published in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society. It may appear to some persons more simple than the span level. We give the cut and explanation.
Another method of leveling, using a large mason's level with an improvement, was created by Colonel Challoner and published in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society. It might seem simpler to some people than the span level. We provide the illustration and explanation.
"I first ascertain what amount of fall I can obtain, from the head of every drain to my outfall. Suppose the length of the drain to be 96 yards, and I find I have a fall of two feet, that gives me a fall of a quarter of an inch in every yard. I take a common bricklayer's[235] level 12 feet long, to the bottom of which I attach, with screws, a piece of wood the whole length, one inch wider at one end than at the other, thereby throwing the level one inch out of the true horizontal line. When the drain has got to its proper depth at the outfall, I apply the broadest end of the level to the mouth; and when the plumb-bob indicates the level to be correct, the one-inch fall has been gained in the four yards, and so on. I keep testing the drain as it is dug, quite up to the head, when an unbroken, even, and continuous fall of two feet in the whole 96 yards has been obtained."
"I first determine how much slope I can get from the top of each drain to my outfall. Let's say the drain is 96 yards long, and I find I have a drop of two feet, which gives me a slope of a quarter of an inch for every yard. I use a standard 12-foot bricklayer's[235] level, to the bottom of which I attach, with screws, a piece of wood that is the same length, one inch wider at one end than the other, making the level tilt one inch out of true horizontal. When the drain reaches the correct depth at the outfall, I place the widest end of the level at the opening; and when the plumb-bob shows the level is correct, I've achieved the one-inch drop over four yards, and so on. I continue to check the drain as it is dug all the way to the top, ensuring that there is a smooth and consistent drop of two feet over the entire 96 yards."

Fig. 60.—Challoner's Level.
Fig. 60.—Challoner's Level.
SPADES AND SHOVELS.

Fig. 61, 62, 63.—Drain Spades.
Fig. 61, 62, 63.—Drain Spades.
No peculiar tool is essential in opening that part of the drain which is more than a foot in width. Shovels and spades, of the forms usually found upon well-furnished farms, and adapted to its soil, will be found sufficient. A Boston agricultural house, a year or two since, sent out an order to London for a complete set of draining tools. In due season, they received, in compliance with their order, three spades of different width, like those represented in the cut.
No special tool is needed to open that section of the drain that's wider than a foot. Regular shovels and spades, the kinds typically found on well-equipped farms, will work just fine with the soil. A Boston agricultural supply company placed an order with a London store a year or two ago for a full set of drainage tools. Eventually, they received three spades of various widths, similar to those shown in the image, as per their order.
These are understood to be the tools in common use in[236] England and Scotland, for sod-draining, and for any other drains, indeed, except tiles. The widest is 12 inches wide, and is used to remove the first spit, of about one foot depth. The second is 12 inches wide at top, and 8 at the point, and the third, eight at top, and four at the point. The narrowest spade is usually made with a spur in front, or what the Irish call a treader, on which to place the foot in driving it into the earth.
These are the commonly used tools in[236] England and Scotland for sod-draining and any other drains, except for tiles. The widest one is 12 inches across and is used to remove the top layer, about one-foot deep. The second tool is 12 inches wide at the top and 8 inches at the point, while the third one is 8 inches wide at the top and 4 inches at the point. The narrowest spade usually has a spur at the front, which the Irish refer to as a treader, used for placing the foot when pushing it into the ground.

Fig. 64.
Spade with Spur.
Fig. 64.
Spade with Spur.

Figs. 65, 66.—Common Shovel and Spade.
Figs. 65, 66.—Shovel and spade.
For wedge drains, these spades are made narrower than those above represented, the finishing spade being but two and a half inches wide at the point. It will be recollected that this kind of drainage is only adapted to clay land. The shovels and spades which have been heretofore in most common use in New England are made with short handles, thus—
For wedge drains, these spades are narrower than the ones mentioned above, with the finishing spade being only two and a half inches wide at the tip. Remember that this type of drainage is only suitable for clay soil. The shovels and spades that have been most commonly used in New England typically have short handles, like this—
They are of cast-steel, and combine great strength and lightness. Long-handled shovels and spades are much preferred, usually, by Irish laborers, whose fancy is worth consulting in matters with which they have so much to do. We believe their notion is correct, that the long-handled tool is the easier to work with, at almost any job.
They are made of steel and blend strength with lightness. Irish laborers usually prefer long-handled shovels and spades, and it's wise to consider their preference since they use these tools frequently. We believe their idea is correct that the long-handled tool is easier to use for almost any task.
In our own draining, we find the common spade, with long or short handle, to be best in marking out the lines in turf; and either the spade or common shovel, according[237] to the nature of the soil, most convenient in removing the first foot of earth.
In our own digging, we find that a regular spade, whether it has a long or short handle, is the best for marking out lines in the grass; and either the spade or a regular shovel, depending on the type of soil, is the most convenient for removing the first foot of dirt.
After this, if the pick is used, a long-handled round-pointed shovel, now in common use on our farms, is found convenient, until the ditch is too narrow for its use. Then the same shovel, turned up at the sides so as to form a narrow scoop, will be found better than any tool we yet have to remove this loosened earth.
After this, if the pick is used, a long-handled round-pointed shovel, which is commonly used on our farms today, is handy until the ditch becomes too narrow for it. Then, the same shovel, with its sides turned up to create a narrow scoop, will be more effective than any tool we have for removing this loosened dirt.

Figs. 67, 68.—Long-handled Round Shovel. Scoop Shovel.
Figs. 67, 68.—Long-handled Round Shovel. Scoop Shovel.
Of all the tools that we have ever seen in the hands of an Irishman, in ditching, nothing approximates to the true Irish spade. It is a very clumsy, ungainly-looking implement used in the old country both for ditching, and for ridging for potatoes, being varied somewhat in width, according to the intended use. For stony soil, it is made narrower and stronger, while for the bog it is broader and lighter. The Irish blacksmiths in this country usually know how to make them, and we have got up a pattern of them, which are manufactured by Laighton and Lufkin, edge-tool makers, of Auburn, N. H., which have been tested, and found to suit the ideas of the Irish workmen.
Of all the tools we've ever seen in the hands of an Irishman, nothing compares to the authentic Irish spade when it comes to ditching. It's a pretty clumsy and awkward-looking tool used back home for both ditching and making ridges for potatoes, and it comes in various widths depending on what it's meant for. For rocky soil, it's made narrower and stronger, while for boggy land, it's wider and lighter. Blacksmiths of Irish descent in this country typically know how to make them, and we've developed a design that's produced by Laighton and Lufkin, edge-tool makers in Auburn, N.H., which have been tested and found to meet the needs of Irish workers.
This is a correct portrait of an Irish spade of our own pattern, which has done more in opening two miles of drains on our own farm, than any other implement.
This is an accurate depiction of an Irish spade of our design, which has been more effective in opening two miles of drains on our farm than any other tool.
The spade of the Laighton and Lufkin pattern weighs 5 lbs., without the handle, and is eighteen inches long. It is of iron, except about eight inches of the blade, which is of cast steel, tempered and polished like a chopping axe. It is considerably curved, and the workmen suit their own taste as to the degree of curvature, by putting[238] the tool under a log or rock, and bending it to suit themselves. It is a powerful, strong implement, and will cut off a root of an inch or two diameter as readily as an axe. The handle is of tough ash, and held in place by a wedge driven at the side of it, and can be knocked out readily when the spade needs new steel, or any repair. The length of the handle is three feet eight inches, and the diameter about one and one-fourth inches. The wedge projects, and forms a "treader," broad and firm, on which the foot comes down, to drive the spade into the ground.
The spade of the Laighton and Lufkin design weighs 5 lbs. without the handle and is eighteen inches long. It’s made mostly of iron, except for about eight inches of the blade, which is crafted from cast steel, tempered and polished like a chopping axe. It has a noticeable curve, and workers can adjust the curvature to their liking by placing[238] the tool under a log or rock and bending it as needed. It’s a strong, powerful tool that can cut through a root one or two inches in diameter as easily as an axe. The handle is made from tough ash, secured in place by a wedge driven into the side, which can be easily removed when the spade needs new steel or repairs. The handle measures three feet eight inches in length and has a diameter of about one and one-fourth inches. The wedge sticks out and serves as a "treader," broad and stable, for the foot to push down on to drive the spade into the ground.

Fig. 69.
Irish Spade.
Fig. 69.
Irish Spade.
We have endeavored to have the market supplied with the Irish spades, because, in the hands of such Irishmen as have used them "at home," we find them a most effective tool. We are met with all sorts of reasonable theoretical objections on the part of implement sellers, and of farmers, who never saw an Irish spade in use. "Would not the tool be better if it were wider and lighter," asks one. "I think it would be better if the spur, or "treader," were movable and of iron, so as to be put on the other side or in front," suggests another. "It seems as if it would work better, if it were straight," adds a third. "Would it not hold the dirt better if it were a little hollowing on the front," queries a fourth. "No doubt," we reply, "there might be a very good implement made, wider and lighter, without a wooden treader, and turned up at the sides, to hold the earth better, but it would not be an Irish spade when finished. Your theories may be all correct and demonstrable by the purest mathematics, but the question is, with what tool will Patrick do the most work? If he[239] recognizes the Irish spade as an institution of his country, as a part of 'home,' you might as well attempt to reason him out of his faith in the Pope, as convince him that his spade is not perfect." Our man, James, believes in the infallibility of both. There is no digging on the farm that his spade is not adapted to. To mark out a drain in the turf by a line, he mounts his spade with one foot, and hops backward on the other, with a celerity surprising to behold. Then he cuts the sod in squares, and, with a sleight of hand, which does not come by nature, as Dogberry says reading and writing come, throws out the first spit. When he comes on to the gravel or hard clay, where another man would use a pick-axe, his heavy boot comes down upon the treader, and drives the spade a foot or more deep; and if a root is encountered, a blow or two easily severs it. The last foot at the bottom of the four-foot drain, is cut out for the sole-tile only four and a half inches wide, and the sides of the ditch are kept trimmed, even and straight, with the sharp steel edge. And it is pleasant to hear James express his satisfaction with his national implement. "And, sure, we could do nothing at this job, sir, without the Irish spade!" "And, sure, I should like to see a man that will spade this hard clay with anything else, sir!" On the whole, though the Irish spade does wonders on our farm, we recommend it only for Irishmen, who know how to handle it. In our own hands, it is as awkward a thing as we ever took hold of, and we never saw any man but an Irishman, who could use it gracefully and effectively.
We’ve worked to get the market stocked with Irish spades because, in the hands of the Irish who have used them “back home,” they’re incredibly effective tools. We face all kinds of reasonable theoretical objections from implement sellers and farmers who have never seen an Irish spade in action. “Wouldn’t the tool be better if it were wider and lighter?” asks one. “I think it would be better if the spur, or 'treader,' were movable and made of iron, so it could be placed on the other side or in front,” suggests another. “It seems like it would work better if it were straight,” adds a third. “Wouldn’t it hold the dirt better if the front were slightly hollowed out?” questions a fourth. “No doubt,” we reply, “you could definitely make a good tool that’s wider and lighter, without a wooden treader, with turned-up sides to hold the earth better, but it wouldn’t be an Irish spade in the end. Your theories might all be correct and provable by the purest math, but the real question is, which tool will Patrick use to get the most work done? If he recognizes the Irish spade as a symbol of his country, as a part of 'home,' you might as well try to reason him out of his belief in the Pope as to convince him that his spade isn’t perfect.” Our guy, James, believes in the infallibility of both. There’s no digging on the farm that his spade isn’t suited for. To mark out a drain in the turf, he steps on his spade with one foot and hops backward on the other, moving surprisingly quickly. Then he cuts the sod into squares and, with a skill that doesn’t come naturally—as Dogberry says about reading and writing—throws out the first scoop. When he hits gravel or hard clay, where another person would use a pickaxe, his heavy boot comes down on the treader, driving the spade a foot or more deep; and if he encounters a root, a couple of strikes make quick work of it. The last foot at the bottom of the four-foot drain is cut out for the sole-tile, which is only four and a half inches wide, and the sides of the ditch are kept neat, even, and straight with the sharp steel edge. It’s satisfying to hear James express his appreciation for his national tool. “And sure, we couldn’t do anything on this job, sir, without the Irish spade!” “And sure, I’d like to see a man who could dig this hard clay with anything else, sir!” Overall, while the Irish spade does wonders on our farm, we only recommend it for Irishmen who know how to handle it. In our hands, it’s one of the most awkward tools we’ve ever used, and we’ve never seen anyone but an Irishman who could use it effectively and gracefully.
Bottoming Tools.—The only tools which are wanted of peculiar form in draining, are such as are used in forming the narrow part of the trenches at the bottom. We can get down two feet, or even three, with the common spade and pick-axe, and in most kinds of drainage, except with tiles, it is necessary to have the bottom as wide, at least,[240] as a spade. In tile-draining, the narrower the trench the better, and in laying cylindrical pipes without collars, the bottom of the drain should exactly fit the pipes, to hold them in line.
Bottoming Tools.—The only tools that are specifically needed for drainage are those used to shape the narrow part of the trenches at the bottom. We can dig down two feet, or even three, with a regular spade and pickaxe, and in most types of drainage, except when using tiles, it’s important to have the bottom at least as wide as a spade.[240] In tile drainage, the narrower the trench, the better, and when laying cylindrical pipes without collars, the bottom of the drain should fit the pipes perfectly to keep them aligned.
Although round pipes are generally used in England, we have known none used in America until the past season—the sole-pipe taking their place. As the sole-pipe has a flat bottom, a different tool is required to finish its resting-place, from that adapted to the round pipe. As we have not, however, arrived quite at the bottom, we will return to the tools for removing the last foot of earth.
Although round pipes are commonly used in England, we hadn't seen any used in America until last season—the sole-pipe has been used instead. Since the sole-pipe has a flat bottom, you need a different tool to prepare its resting place compared to what you would use for a round pipe. However, since we haven’t quite reached the bottom yet, let's go back to the tools for removing the last foot of earth.
And first, we give from Morton, the Birmingham spades referred to by Mr. Denton, in his letter, quoted in this chapter. They are the theoretically perfect tools for removing the last eighteen or twenty inches of soil in a four or five-foot drain. Mr. Gisborne says of the drain properly formed:
And first, we present the Birmingham spades mentioned by Mr. Denton in his letter, which is quoted in this chapter. They are the ideal tools for digging out the last eighteen or twenty inches of soil in a four or five-foot drain. Mr. Gisborne comments on the properly formed drain:
"It is wrought in the shape of a wedge, brought in the bottom to the narrowest limit which will admit the collar, by tools admirably adapted to that purpose. The foot of the operator is never within twenty inches of the floor of the drain; his tools are made of iron, plated on steel, and never lose their sharpness, even when worn to the stumps; because, as the softer material, the iron, wears away, the sharp steel edge is always prominent."
"It’s shaped like a wedge, tapered at the bottom to the narrowest point that allows for the collar, using tools perfectly designed for that job. The operator's foot is never less than twenty inches above the floor of the drain; their tools are made of iron and coated in steel, maintaining their sharpness even when worn down to the stumps. This is because as the softer iron wears away, the sharp steel edge remains exposed."
Fig. 70.
Fig. 70.

Fig. 71.
Fig. 71.

Fig. 72.
Fig. 72.

Birmingham Spades.
Birmingham Spades.
This poetical view of digging drains, meets us at every turn, and we are beset with inquiries for[241] these wonderful implements. We do not intimate that Mr. Gisborne, and those who so often quote the above language, are not reliable. Mr. Gisborne "is an honorable man, so are they all honorable men;" but we must reform our tiles, and our land too, most of it, we fear, before we can open four-foot trenches, and lay pipes in them, without putting a foot "within twenty inches of the floor of the drain."
This poetic perspective on digging drains is everywhere, and we're constantly bombarded with questions about[241] these amazing tools. We're not suggesting that Mr. Gisborne and those who frequently quote him aren't trustworthy. Mr. Gisborne "is an honorable man, and so are they all honorable men;" but we need to improve our tiles and much of our land, we worry, before we can dig four-foot trenches and put pipes in them without stepping "within twenty inches of the floor of the drain."
In the first place, we have great doubt whether pipes can be laid close enough to make the joints secure without collars, unless carefully laid by hand, or unless they are round pipes, rolled in the making, when half dried, and so made straight and even at the ends. In laying such sole-pipes as we have laid, it requires some care to adjust them, so as to make the joints close. Most of them are warped in drying or burning, so that spaces of half an inch will often be left at the top or side, where two are laid end to end. Now, if the foot never goes to the bottom of the drain, the pipes must be laid with a hook or pipe-layer, such as will be presently described, which may do well for pipes and collars, because the collar covers the joint, so that it is of no importance if it be somewhat open.
First of all, we really doubt that pipes can be positioned closely enough to ensure the joints are secure without collars, unless they are carefully installed by hand, or unless they are round pipes that are rolled during manufacturing and then straightened and evened out at the ends when they are half-dried. When laying the sole pipes we've installed, it takes some attention to get them adjusted so that the joints fit tightly. Most of them warp while drying or burning, leaving gaps of half an inch at the top or side where two are connected end to end. Now, if the foot never reaches the bottom of the drain, the pipes need to be installed with a hook or pipe-layer, which will be described later. This may work well for pipes and collars, since the collar covers the joint, making it less critical if it’s slightly open.
Again, we know of no method of working with a pick-axe, except by standing as low as the bottom of the work. No man can pick twenty inches, or indeed any inches, lower than he stands, because he must move forward in this work, and not backward. Each land-owner may judge for himself, whether his land requires the pick in its excavation.
Again, we know of no way to use a pickaxe except by standing at the bottom of the project. No one can pick at a height twenty inches, or really any inches, lower than where they are standing because they need to move forward, not backward. Each landowner can decide for themselves if their land needs to be excavated with a pick.
In soft clays, no doubt, with suitable tools, the trench may be cut a foot, or more, lower than the feet of the workman. We have seen it done in our land, in a sandy soil, with the Irish spade, though, as we used sole-pipes, our "pipe-layer" was a live Irishman, who walked in the[242] trench backwards, putting down the pipes with his hand.
In soft clay, it’s definitely possible, with the right tools, to dig a trench a foot or more below where the workers are standing. We’ve seen it happen in our country, in sandy soil, using an Irish spade. However, since we used sole pipes, our "pipe-layer" was an actual Irishman who walked backward in the[242] trench, placing the pipes down by hand.
We are satisfied, that the instances in which trenches may be opened a foot or two below the feet of the workmen, are the exceptions, and not the rule, and that in laying sole-tiles, the hand of a careful workman must adjust each tile in its position.
We believe that situations where trenches are dug a foot or two below the feet of workers are exceptions, not the norm, and that when laying sole tiles, a careful worker must place each tile accurately.
We have found a narrow spade, four inches wide, with a long handle, a convenient tool for finishing drains for sole-tiles.
We found a narrow spade, four inches wide, with a long handle—a handy tool for finishing drains for sole-tiles.
Fig. 73.
Fig. 73.

Fig. 74.
Fig. 74.

Narrow Spades for Tiles.
Narrow Spades for Tiles.
We have thoroughly tested the matter; and in all kinds of soil, give a decided preference to spades as broad at the point as at the heel. We have used common long-handled spades, cut down with shears at a machine-shop, into these shapes.
We have thoroughly tested the issue, and in all types of soil, we definitely prefer spades that are as wide at the tip as they are at the base. We have used standard long-handled spades, modified with shears at a machine shop to create these shapes.
The spade of equal width, works much more easily in the bottom of a trench, because its corners do not catch, as do those of the other. The pointed spade is apparently nearer the shape of the sloping ditch, but such tools cannot be used vertically, and when the heel of the pointed spade is lowered, it catches in the side of the trench, before the point reaches the bottom.
The spade with an equal width works much more easily at the bottom of a trench because its corners don’t get caught like those of the other type. The pointed spade seems to match the shape of the sloping ditch better, but these tools can’t be used vertically. When you lower the heel of the pointed spade, it gets stuck in the side of the trench before the point reaches the bottom.
Very strong spades, of various width, from three to eight inches, and thick at the heel, to operate as a wedge, will be found most suitable for common use. The narrowest spades should have the spur, as shown in Fig.[243] 64, because there is not room for the foot by the side of the handle.
Very sturdy spades, varying in width from three to eight inches, and thick at the heel to work like a wedge, are ideal for general use. The narrowest spades should have a spur, as shown in Fig.[243] 64, because there's not enough space for the foot next to the handle.
The various tools for finishing the bottoms of drains, as figured in Morton, are the following:
The different tools for finishing the bottoms of drains, as shown in Morton, are these:

Fig. 75.
Fig. 75.

Fig. 76.
Fig. 76.

Fig. 77.
Fig. 77.

Fig. 78.
Fig. 78.

Fig. 79.
Fig. 79.
English Bottoming Tools.
English Bottoming Tools.
The last implement, which is a scoop for the bottom of trenches for round pipes, is one of the tools mentioned in Mr. Denton's letter, as not being found to the taste of his workmen. For scooping out our flat-bottomed trenches, we use a tool like Fig. 77. For boggy land, soft clay, or, indeed, any land where water is running at the time of[244] the excavation, scoops like the following will be found convenient for flat bottoms.
The last tool, which is a scoop for digging the bottoms of trenches for round pipes, is one of the items mentioned in Mr. Denton's letter that his workers didn’t like. For digging out our flat-bottomed trenches, we use a tool like Fig. 77. For marshy land, soft clay, or really any area where water is running during the excavation, scoops like the ones below are useful for achieving flat bottoms.

Fig. 80.
Fig. 80.

Fig. 81.
Fig. 81.

Fig. 82.
Fig. 82.
Drawing and Pushing Scoop, and Pipe-Layer.
Drawing and Pushing Scoop, and Pipe Layer.
The pushing scoop (Fig. 81), as it is called, may be made of a common long-handled shovel, turned up at the sides by a blacksmith, leaving it of the desired width.
The pushing scoop (Fig. 81), as it’s referred to, can be made from a regular long-handled shovel, with the sides turned up by a blacksmith, giving it the required width.
The pipe-layer, of which mention has so often been made, is a little implement invented by Mr. Parkes, for placing round pipes and collars in narrow trenches, without stepping into them.
The pipe-layer, which has been mentioned frequently, is a small tool created by Mr. Parkes for positioning round pipes and collars in narrow trenches without having to step into them.
The following sketch, by our friend Mr. Shedd, shows the pipe-layer in use. The cross section of the land, shown in front, represents it as having had the advantage of draining, by which the water-table is brought to a level with the bottom of the drain, as shown by the heavy shading.[245] An "Irish spade" and a pipe-layer are shown lying on the ground.
The following sketch, by our friend Mr. Shedd, shows the pipe-layer in use. The cross-section of the land, displayed in front, indicates that it has benefited from drainage, which brings the water table to the same level as the bottom of the drain, as evidenced by the heavy shading.[245] An "Irish spade" and a pipe-layer are shown resting on the ground.

Fig. 83.—Pipe-Laying.
Fig. 83.— Pipe Laying.
The pick-axes commonly used in excavation of trenches, are in the following forms:
The pick axes typically used for digging trenches come in the following forms:

Fig. 84, 85.—Pick-axes.
Fig. 84, 85.—Pickaxes.
Pick-axes may be light or heavy, according to the nature of the soil. A chisel at one end, and point at the other, is found best in most cases.
Pickaxes can be light or heavy, depending on the type of soil. A chisel on one end and a pointed tip on the other is usually the most effective design in most situations.
A Drain-gauge is usually mentioned in a list of draining tools. It is used when ditches are designed for stone or other material than tiles, and where the width is important. In tile-draining the width is entirely immaterial. If opened by the rod, it is only important that they be of proper depth and inclination, with the bottom wide enough for the tile.
A Drain-gauge is generally included in a list of drainage tools. It's used when ditches are made for stone or other materials instead of tiles, and where the width matters. In tile drainage, the width doesn’t really matter. If opened with a rod, what's important is that they are at the right depth and slope, with the bottom wide enough for the tile.

Fig. 86.—Drain-Gauge.
Fig. 86.—Drain Gauge.
The above figure shows the usual form of the drain-gauge. Below, we give from Morton, drawings, and a description of Elkington's augers for boring in the bottoms of ditches.
The figure above shows the typical design of the drain gauge. Below, we provide drawings and a description of Elkington's augers for boring in the bottoms of ditches, based on Morton.
"The cut annexed represents the auger employed by Elkington, where a b and c are different forms of the tool; d, a portion of the shaft: e, with the wedges, h h, the cross handle; and f and g additional pieces for grasping the shaft, and so enabling more than one person to work at it." The auger-hole ought to be a little at one side of the drain, as in Fig. 3, at page 35, so that the water may not rise at right angles to the flow of water in it, and obstruct its current.
"The diagram shows the auger used by Elkington, where a b and c are different shapes of the tool; d is a section of the shaft; e, alongside the wedges, h h, represents the cross handle; and f and g are extra pieces for gripping the shaft, allowing more than one person to work on it." The auger hole should be slightly off to one side of the drain, as shown in Fig. 3, on page 35, so that the water doesn't rise directly against the flow and block its path.

Fig. 87.—Elkington's Draining Auger.
Fig. 87.—Elkington's Draining Auger.

- a. The plug, or point under ground, to which the string of pipes is attached.
- bb. The coulter from the point up through the beam, regulated by wheel and screw midway.
- c. The beam connecting the two pairs of wheels.
- e. Drain opened by hand where pipes enter the ground.
- a to e. Pipes under ground.
- e to f. Pipes above ground.
- g. Windlass or capstan, worked by horses.
- h. Wire rope attached to plow, and wound round the windlass.
- i. Pulley round which the rope runs to keep the plow in the line of the ditch.
DRAINING-PLOWS AND DITCH-DIGGERS.[247]
The man who can invent and construct a machine that shall be capable of cutting four-foot ditches for pipe-drains, with facility, will deserve well of his country.
The person who can design and build a machine that can easily cut four-foot ditches for pipe drains will do a great service to their country.
It is not essential that the drain be cut to its full depth at one operation. If worked by oxen or horses, it may go several times over the work, taking out a few inches at each time. If moved by a capstan, or other slowly-operating power, it must work more thoroughly, so as not to consume too much time.
It’s not necessary for the drain to be dug to its full depth in one go. If it's done with oxen or horses, it can be done several times, removing a few inches each time. If it’s powered by a capstan or another slow-moving source, it needs to be done more thoroughly to avoid wasting too much time.
With a lever, such as is used in Willis's Stump Puller, sufficient power for any purpose may be applied. An implement like a subsoil plow, constructed to run four feet deep, and merely doing the work of the pick, would be of great assistance. Prof. Mapes says he has made use of such an implement with great advantage. For tile-drains, the narrower the ditch the better, if it be only wide enough to receive the tiles. A mere slit, four inches wide, if straight and of even inclination at the bottom, would be the best kind of ditch, the pipes being laid in with a pipe-layer. But if the ditch is to be finished by the machine, it is essential that it be so contrived that it will grade the bottom, and not leave it undulating like the surface. Fowler's Drain Plow is said to be so arranged, by improvements since its first trials, as to attain this object.
Using a lever, like the one in Willis's Stump Puller, can provide enough power for any task. A tool similar to a subsoil plow, designed to dig four feet deep and essentially doing the job of a pick, would be very useful. Prof. Mapes mentions that he's had great benefits from using such a tool. For tile-drains, the narrower the ditch, the better, as long as it's just wide enough to fit the tiles. A simple slit, four inches wide, if straight and with a level bottom, would be the ideal type of ditch, with the pipes laid in using a pipe-layer. However, if the ditch is to be finished by a machine, it must be designed to even out the bottom, rather than leaving it bumpy like the surface. Fowler's Drain Plow is reported to have been improved since its initial trials to achieve this goal.
Having thus briefly suggested some of the points to be kept in mind by inventors, we will proceed to give some account of such machines as come nearest to the wants of the community. Fowler's Draining-Plow would meet the largest wants of the public, were it cheap enough, and really reliable to perform what it is said to perform. The author saw this implement in England, but not in operation, and it seems impossible, from inspection of it,[248] as well as from the theory of its operation, that it can succeed, if at all, in any but soft homogeneous clay. The idea is, however, so bold, and so much is claimed for the implement, that some description of it seems indispensable in a work like this.
Having briefly pointed out some considerations for inventors, we will now discuss machines that best meet the needs of the community. Fowler's Draining-Plow would address the public's biggest needs if it were affordable and truly reliable in performing its promised functions. The author saw this tool in England, though not in use, and it seems unlikely, based on its design and the theory behind its operation, that it can succeed in anything other than soft, uniform clay. However, the concept is so bold and there are so many claims made about the tool that a description of it is essential in a work like this.
The pipes, of common drain tiles, are strung on a rope, and this rope, with the pipes, is drawn through the ground, following a plug like the foot of a subsoil plow, leaving the pipes perfectly laid, and the drain completed at a single operation. (See Fig. 88.)
The pipes, made of standard drain tiles, are attached to a rope, and this rope, along with the pipes, is pulled through the ground, following a plug similar to the foot of a subsoil plow, leaving the pipes perfectly installed and the drain completed in a single step. (See Fig. 88.)
The work is commenced by opening a short piece of ditch by hand, and strings of pipes, each about 50 feet long, are added as the work proceeds; and when the ditch is completed, the rope is withdrawn. When the surface is uneven, the uniform slope is preserved by means of a wheel and screw, which governs the plug, or coulter, raising or lowering it at pleasure. A man upon the frame-work controls this wheel, guided by a sight on the frame, and a cross-staff at the end of the field.
The work starts by digging a short ditch by hand, and as the work goes on, segments of pipes about 50 feet long are added. Once the ditch is finished, the rope is pulled out. If the surface isn't even, a wheel and screw are used to maintain a consistent slope by adjusting the plug or coulter up or down as needed. Someone on the framework operates this wheel, using a sight on the frame and a cross-staff at the far end of the field for guidance.
Drains, 40 rods long, are finished at one operation. This plow has been carefully tested in England. Its work has been uncovered when completed, and found perfect in every respect. The great expense of the machine, and the fact that it is only adapted to clay land free from obstructions, has prevented its general use. We cannot help believing that, by the aid of steam, on our prairies, at least, some such machine may be found practicable and economical.
Drains that are 40 rods long can be completed in one go. This plow has been thoroughly tested in England. When its work is finished, it has been found to be flawless in every way. The high cost of the machine and the fact that it only works on clay soil without obstructions have limited its overall use. We believe that, with the help of steam, a similar machine could be practical and cost-effective on our prairies.
PRATT'S DITCH DIGGER,
Patented by Pratt & Bro., of Canandaigua, is attracting much attention. We have not seen it in operation, nor have we seen statements which satisfy us that it is just what is demanded. It is stated, in the Country Gentleman, to be incapable of cutting a ditch more than two and a half feet deep. A machine that will do so much is[249] not to be despised; but more than one half the digging remains of a four-foot ditch, after two and a half feet are opened, and we want an implement to do the lowest and worst half. It is stated that, in one instance, a ditch, 60 rods long, about two feet deep, in hard clay, was cut with this machine, worked by two horses, in five hours.
Patented by Pratt & Bro. of Canandaigua, this machine is getting a lot of attention. We haven't seen it in action, and we haven't come across any statements that convince us it's exactly what we need. According to the Country Gentleman, it can't cut a ditch deeper than two and a half feet. A machine that can do that much is [249] certainly worth considering; however, over half of the digging remains for a four-foot ditch after two and a half feet are completed, and we need a tool that can tackle the lower and tougher part. It's reported that, in one case, this machine, operated by two horses, dug a ditch that was 60 rods long and about two feet deep in hard clay, in just five hours.
We trust that the enterprising inventors will perfect their implement, so that it will open drains four feet deep, and thus meet the great want of the public. It is not to be expected that any such implement can be made to operate in ground full of stones and roots; and inventors should not be discouraged by the continual croakings of those sinister birds, which see nothing but obstacles, and prophecy only failure.
We believe that the innovative inventors will perfect their tool so that it can dig drains four feet deep, addressing a significant need for the public. It's unrealistic to expect any such tool to work well in soil that's full of stones and roots, and inventors shouldn't be discouraged by the constant negativity from those pessimistic voices, who only see problems and predict failure.

Fig. 89.—Pratt's Ditch Digger.
Fig. 89.—Pratt's Ditch Digger.
The drain plow was first introduced into Scotland by M'Ewan. The soil in his district was mostly a strong unctuous clay, free from stones. He constructed an immense plow, worked by 12 or 16 horses, by means of which a furrow-slice, 16 inches in depth, was turned out; and, by a modification of the plow, a second slice was removed, to the depth, in all, of two feet. This plow is expensive and heavy, and incapable of working to sufficient depth.
The drain plow was first brought to Scotland by M'Ewan. The soil in his area was mostly a thick, sticky clay, without rocks. He built a huge plow, pulled by 12 or 16 horses, which could turn a furrow-slice 16 inches deep; with some adjustments to the plow, a second slice was removed, totaling a depth of two feet. This plow is costly and heavy, and it can't work to a sufficient depth.
Mr. Paul, of Norfolk Co., England, has lately invented an ingenious machine for cutting drains, of which we give an elevation.
Mr. Paul, from Norfolk County, England, has recently created a clever machine for cutting drains, of which we provide an illustration.

Fig. 90.—Paul's Ditching Machine.
Fig. 90.—Paul's Ditching Machine.
It is worked by a chain and capstan, by horses, and, of[250] course, may be operated by steam or lever power. It is drawn forward, and, as it moves, it acts as a slotting machine on the land, the tools on the circumference of the acting-wheel taking successive bites of the soil, each lifting a portion from the full depth to which it is desired that the trench should be cut, and laying the earth thus removed on the surface at either side. There is a lifting apparatus at the end of the machine, by which the cutting-wheel may be raised or lowered, according to the unevenness of the surface, in order to secure a uniform fall in the bottom of the drain. The whole process is carried on at the rate of about four feet per minute, and it results, on suitable soils, in cutting a drain from three to five feet deep, leaving it in a finished state, with a level bottom for the tiles to rest upon. We give the cut and statement from the Cyclopædia of Agriculture, and if the machine shall prove what it is represented to be, we see but little more to be desired in a ditching machine. The principle of this implement appears to us to be the correct one,[251] and we see no reason to doubt the statement of its performance.
It operates with a chain and capstan, or by horses, and can also be powered by steam or levers. As it moves forward, it functions like a slotting machine on the ground, with tools on the edge of the cutting wheel taking repeated bites of the soil, each lifting a portion from the desired depth of the trench and placing the removed earth on the surface on either side. There’s a lifting mechanism at the end of the machine that raises or lowers the cutting wheel based on the unevenness of the ground, ensuring a consistent slope at the bottom of the drain. The entire process runs at about four feet per minute, resulting in a drain cut three to five feet deep on suitable soils, finishing with a level bottom for the tiles to sit on. We provide the excerpt and information from the Cyclopædia of Agriculture, and if the machine performs as claimed, we find little else to wish for in a ditching machine. The concept behind this tool seems to us to be sound, and we have no reason to doubt the claim of its effectiveness.
Routt's drain plow is designed for surface-draining merely. We give, from the New England Farmer, a statement of its merits, as detailed by a correspondent who saw it at the exhibition of the U. S. Agricultural Society at Richmond, in 1858:
Routt's drain plow is made solely for surface draining. We provide, from the New England Farmer, a description of its advantages, as reported by a correspondent who observed it at the exhibition of the U.S. Agricultural Society in Richmond in 1858:
"One of the most attractive implements on the Fair ground, to the farmer, was A. P. Routt's patent drain plow. This implement makes a furrow a foot deep, two feet and a half wide at the top, and four inches wide at the bottom, the sides sloping at such an angle as to insure the drain from falling in by the frost, the whole being perfectly completed at one operation by this plow, or tool. Those who have tried it say it is the very thing for surface-draining, which, on wet lands, is certainly very beneficial where under-draining has not been done. The manufacturer resides in Somerset, Orange County, Va. The plow is so made that it opens a deep furrow, turning both to the right and left, and is followed by a heavy iron roller that hardens the earth, both on the sides and the bottom of the surface-drain, thus doing very handsome work. The price, as heretofore stated, is $25, and with it, a man can, with a good pair of team horses, surface-drain 60 acres of land a day."
"One of the most appealing tools at the fair for farmers was A. P. Routt's patented drain plow. This tool creates a furrow that's a foot deep, two and a half feet wide at the top, and four inches wide at the bottom, with sides sloping at an angle that prevents the drain from collapsing due to frost, completing the job in one go. Users say it's perfect for surface-draining, which is definitely beneficial on wet land where under-draining hasn’t been done. The manufacturer is based in Somerset, Orange County, Va. The plow is designed to create a deep furrow, turning both to the right and left, and is followed by a heavy iron roller that compacts the soil on both the sides and bottom of the surface drain, resulting in excellent work. The price is $25, and with it, a person can, with a good pair of team horses, surface-drain 60 acres of land in a day."
CHAPTER XII[252]
PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR OPENING DRAINS AND LAYING TILES.
Begin at the Outlet.—Use of Plows.—Levelling the Bottom.—Where to begin to lay Pipes.—Mode of Procedure.—Covering Pipes.—Securing Joints.—Filling.—Securing Outlets.—Plans.
Begin at the Outlet.—Using Plows.—Leveling the Bottom.—Where to start laying Pipes.—Method of Procedure.—Covering Pipes.—Securing Joints.—Filling.—Securing Outlets.—Plans.
In former chapters, we have spoken minutely of the arrangement, depth, distance, and width of drains; and in treating of tools for drainage, we have sufficiently described the use of levelling instruments and of the various digging tools.
In previous chapters, we have discussed in detail the layout, depth, distance, and width of drains; and when covering tools for drainage, we have adequately described how to use leveling instruments and various digging tools.
We assume here, that the engineering has been already done, and that the whole system has been carefully staked out, so that every main, sub-main, and minor is distinctly located, and the fall accurately ascertained. Until so much has been accomplished, we are unprepared to put the first spade into the ground.
We assume that the engineering work has already been completed and that the entire system has been thoroughly laid out, so that every main, sub-main, and minor part is clearly marked and the slope has been accurately determined. Until this is done, we are not ready to break ground.
We propose to give our own experience as to the convenient method of procedure, with such suggestions as occur to us, for those who are differently situated from ourselves.
We want to share our own experience regarding the convenient way to proceed and offer suggestions that come to mind for those who are in a different situation than we are.
The work of excavation must begin at the outlet, so that whatever water is met with, may pass readily away; and the outlet must be kept always low enough for this purpose. If there is considerable fall, it may not be best to deepen the lower end of the main to its full extent, at first, because the main, though first opened, must be the[253] last in which the pipes are laid, and may cave in, if unnecessarily deep at first. In many cases there is fall enough, so that the upper minors may be laid and find sufficient fall, before the lower end of the main is half opened.
The excavation work should start at the outlet so that any water encountered can flow out easily; the outlet must always be low enough for this purpose. If there’s a significant drop, it might not be the best idea to deepen the lower end of the main to its full extent right away, because even though the main is opened first, it should be the[253] last section where the pipes are installed, and it could collapse if it's too deep initially. In many cases, there’s enough of a slope so that the upper minors can be laid down and find adequate fall before the lower end of the main is even half opened.
With a garden line drawn straight, mark out the drain, with a sharp spade, on both sides, and remove the turf. If it is desired to use the turf for covering the pipes, or to replace it over the drains, when finished, it should at first be placed in heaps outside the line of the earth to be thrown out.
With a straight line in the garden, outline the drain with a sharp spade on both sides and take off the grass. If you want to use the grass to cover the pipes or put it back over the drains when you're done, it should be stacked in piles outside the area of soil that will be removed.
A plow is used sometimes to turn out the sod and soil; but we have few plowmen who can go straight enough; and in plowing, the soil is left too near to the ditch for convenience, and the turf is torn in pieces and buried, so as not to be fit for use. Usually, it will be found convenient to remove the turf, if there be any, with a spade, by a line. Then, a plow may be used for turning out the next spit, and the drain may be kept straight, which is indispensable to good work. A good ditching-machine is, of course, the thing needful; but we are endeavoring in these directions to do our best without it. We have opened our own trenches entirely by hand labor, finding laborers more convenient than oxen or horses, and no more expensive.
A plow is sometimes used to turn over the sod and soil, but we have few plowmen who can keep a straight line. When plowing, the soil often ends up too close to the ditch for comfort, and the turf gets ripped apart and buried, making it unusable. Typically, it's easier to remove any turf with a spade along a guideline. After that, a plow can be used to turn over the next layer, and the drainage can be kept straight, which is essential for good work. Of course, having a good ditching machine would be ideal, but we're doing our best without one. We've opened our own trenches entirely by hand, finding that laborers are more convenient than oxen or horses and just as cost-effective.
Many have used the plow in the first foot or two of the cutting, but it is not here "the first step which costs," but the later steps. After the first foot is removed, if the ground be hard, a pick or subsoil plow must be used. A subsoil plow, properly constructed, may be made very useful in breaking up the subsoil, though there is a difficulty in working cattle astride of a deep ditch, encumbered with banks of earth. A friend of ours used, in opening drains, a large bull in single harness, trained to walk in the ditch; but the width of a big bull is a somewhat[254] larger pattern for a drain, than will be found economical.
Many people have used the plow for the first foot or two of the cut, but it's not just "the first step that costs," it's the later steps that matter. Once the first foot is done, if the ground is hard, you'll need to use a pick or subsoil plow. A well-designed subsoil plow can be really helpful for breaking up the lower soil, though it can be tricky to work animals over a deep ditch that's slowed down by banks of earth. A friend of ours used a large bull in a single harness for opening drains, trained to walk in the ditch; but the width of a big bull is a bit[254] too large for a drain to be cost-effective.
The ingenuity of farmers in the use of a pair of heavy wheels, with a chain attached to the axle, so that the cattle may both walk on one side of the ditch, or by the use of long double-trees, so that horses may go outside the banks of earth, will generally be found sufficient to make the most of their means.
The creativity of farmers in using a pair of heavy wheels with a chain connected to the axle allows the cattle to walk on one side of the ditch, or by using long double-trees so that horses can travel outside the banks of earth, is usually enough to maximize their resources.
It will be found convenient to place the soil at one side, and the subsoil at the other, for convenience in returning both right side up to their places.
It will be helpful to put the soil on one side and the subsoil on the other, making it easier to return both to their original positions right side up.
Having worked down to the depth of two feet or more, the ditch should be too narrow for the use of common spades, and the narrow tools already described will be found useful. The Irish spade, on our own fields, is in use from the first to the last of the excavation; and at three feet depth, we have our trench but about six inches in width, and at the bottom, at four feet depth, it is but four inches—just wide enough for the laborer to stand in it, with one foot before the other.
Once the ditch is dug to a depth of two feet or more, it becomes too narrow for regular spades, and the smaller tools we've mentioned earlier will come in handy. The Irish spade is used throughout the entire excavation process on our fields; at three feet deep, the trench is only about six inches wide, and at four feet down, it narrows to just four inches—just wide enough for the worker to stand in it with one foot in front of the other.
Having excavated to nearly our depth, we use the lines, as described in another place, for levelling, and the men working under them, grade the bottom as accurately as possible. If flat-bottomed tiles are used, the ditch is ready for them. If round pipes are used, a round bottoming tool must be used to form a semi-circular groove in which the pipes are to lie.
Having dug down to nearly the required depth, we use the lines, as mentioned elsewhere, for leveling, and the workers below them shape the bottom as precisely as possible. If flat-bottomed tiles are used, the trench is ready for them. If round pipes are used, a round bottoming tool must be employed to create a semi-circular groove for the pipes to rest in.
We have not forgotten that English drainers tell us of tools and their use, whereby drains may be open twenty inches lower than the feet of the workman; but we have never chanced to see that operation, and are skeptical as to the fact that work can thus be performed economically, except in very peculiar soils. That such a crack may be thus opened, is not doubted; but we conceive of no means by which earth, that requires the pick, can be moved to[255] advantage, without the workman standing as low as his work.
We haven't forgotten that English drainers talk about tools and their use, allowing drains to be opened twenty inches below the worker's feet; however, we've never actually seen that process in action and are skeptical that it can be done efficiently, except in very specific types of soil. While it’s undisputed that such a crack can be opened, we can't imagine any way to move earth that needs a pick without the worker being at the same level as their task.
Having opened the main, and finished, as we have described, the minor which enters the main at its highest point, we are ready to lay the tiles.
Having opened the main section and completed the minor one, as we've described, which connects to the main at its highest point, we are ready to lay the tiles.
By first laying the upper drain, it will be seen that we may finish and secure our work to the junction of the first minor with its main.
By starting with the upper drain, we can see that we can complete and secure our work at the junction of the first minor drain with its main.
Convey the pipes by wagon or otherwise, as is convenient, to the side of the ditch where the soil lies, and where there is least earth, and lay them close to the edge of the ditch, end to end the whole way, discarding all imperfect pieces. If it is designed to use gravel, turf, or other covering for the pipes, lay it also in heaps along the trench. Then place the first pipe at the upper end of the ditch, with a brick or stone against its upper end, to exclude earth. We have heretofore used sole-tiles, with flat bottoms, and have found that a thin chip of wood, not an eighth of an inch thick, and four by two inches in size, such as may be found at shoe shops in New England, assists very much in securing an even bearing for the tiles. It is placed so that the ends of two tiles rest on it, and serves to keep them in line till secured by the earth. A man walking backward in the ditch, takes the tiles from the bank, carefully adjusting them in line and so as to make good joints, and he can lay half a mile or more in a day, if the bottom is well graded. Another should follow on the bank, throwing in a shovel full of gravel or tan, if either is used, upon the joint.
Transport the pipes by wagon or whatever is easiest to the side of the ditch where the soil is minimal, and lay them right next to the edge of the ditch, end to end the whole way, discarding any damaged pieces. If you plan to use gravel, turf, or other materials to cover the pipes, pile those along the trench as well. Then, place the first pipe at the upper end of the ditch, with a brick or stone against its upper end to keep soil out. Previously, we’ve used flat-bottom sole-tiles, and we’ve found that a thin piece of wood, about an eighth of an inch thick and four by two inches in size, like those found at shoe shops in New England, helps a lot in ensuring an even support for the tiles. It’s positioned so that the ends of two tiles rest on it and keeps them aligned until secured by the earth. A person walking backward in the ditch takes the tiles from the bank, carefully lining them up to create good joints, and he can lay half a mile or more in a day if the bottom is well leveled. Another person should follow on the bank, tossing in a shovel full of gravel or tan onto the joint, if either is being used.
If turf is to be used to secure the joint, pieces should be cut thin and narrow, and laid along the bank, and the man in the ditch must secure each joint as he proceeds. It will be found to cost twice the labor, at least, to use turf, as it is to use gravel or tan, if they are at hand.
If turf is going to be used to secure the joint, it should be cut thin and narrow, and placed along the bank, while the person in the ditch needs to secure each joint as they work. You'll find that using turf costs at least twice the labor compared to using gravel or tan, if those are available.
If the soil be clay, we do not believe it is best to return[256] it directly upon the tiles, because it is liable to puddle and stop the joint, and then to crack and admit silt at the joint, while gravel is not thus affected. We prefer to place the top soil of clay land, next the pipes, rather than the clay in the condition in which it is usually found.
If the soil is clay, we don't think it's best to put it directly on the tiles, because it can create puddles, block the joints, and then crack and let silt in at the joints, while gravel doesn't have those issues. We prefer to put the topsoil from clay land next to the pipes instead of using the clay in its usual state.
As to small stones above the pipes, we should decidedly object to them. They are unnecessary to the operation of the drain, and they allow the water to come in, in currents, on to the top of the pipes, in heavy storms or showers, and so endanger their security. The practice of placing stones above the tiles is abandoned by all scientific drainers.
As for small stones above the pipes, we should definitely oppose them. They aren't needed for the drain to work and let water flow in on top of the pipes during heavy storms or showers, which puts them at risk. The practice of putting stones above the tiles is no longer used by any professional drainers.
We have, in England, seen straw placed over the joints of pipes, but it seems an inconvenient and insecure practice. Long straw cannot be well placed in such narrow openings, and it is likely to sustain the earth enough, so that when thrown in, it will not settle equally around the pipes; whereas a shovelfull of gravel or other earth sifted in carefully, will at once fasten them in place.
In England, we've seen straw used to cover the joints of pipes, but it feels like a clumsy and unreliable method. Long straw doesn’t fit well into such tight spaces, and it might not hold the soil properly, causing it to not settle evenly around the pipes. On the other hand, a shovel full of gravel or properly sifted soil can secure them effectively right away.
Having laid and partially covered the first or upper drain, proceed with the next in the same way, laying and securing the main or sub-main, at the same time, to each intersection, thus carrying the work from the highest point down towards the outlet. After sufficient earth has been thrown in to make the work safe against accidents by rain, or caving in of earth, the filling may be completed at leisure. Mr. Johnston, of Geneva, uses for this purpose a plow, having a double-tree nine and a half feet long, to enable a horse to go on each side of the ditch.
After laying and partially covering the first drain, continue with the next one in the same way by laying and securing the main or sub-main at each intersection. This will allow you to work from the highest point down toward the outlet. Once enough soil has been added to make the work safe from rain and potential soil collapse, you can finish the filling at your own pace. Mr. Johnston, from Geneva, uses a plow with a double-tree that’s nine and a half feet long, so a horse can work on either side of the ditch.
We suggest that a side-hill plow might well enough be used with horses tandem, or with oxen and cart wheels and draughts.
We recommend that a side-hill plow could effectively be used with horses tandem, or with oxen and cart wheels and pulls.
The filling, however, will be found a small matter, compared with the digging. In laying pipes in narrow trenches, a tool called a pipe-layer is sometimes used, a[257] cut of which, showing its mode of use, may be found in another place.
The filling is actually pretty easy compared to the digging. When laying pipes in narrow trenches, a tool called a pipe-layer is sometimes used, a[257] cut of which, showing how it’s used, can be found elsewhere.
In filling drains where the soil is partly clay, and partly sand or gravel, we recommend that the clay be placed in the upper part of the drain, so as to prevent water from passing directly down upon the pipes, by which they are frequently displaced as soon as laid.
In filling drains where the soil is a mix of clay and sand or gravel, we suggest placing the clay in the upper part of the drain to stop water from flowing directly down onto the pipes, which often causes them to shift right after they're installed.
If the work is completed in Autumn, it is well to turn two or three furrows from each side on to the drains, so as to raise the surface there, and prevent water from cutting out the ditch, or standing above it. If the land is plowed in Autumn, it is best to back-furrow on to the drains, leaving dead furrows half way between them, the first season.
If the work is finished in the fall, it's a good idea to turn two or three furrows from each side onto the drains to raise the surface there and prevent water from eroding the ditch or pooling above it. If the land is plowed in the fall, it's best to back-furrow onto the drains, leaving dead furrows halfway between them during the first season.
As to the importance of securing the outlets, and the manner of doing it, we have spoken particularly elsewhere.
As for the importance of securing the outlets and how to do it, we've talked about that in detail elsewhere.
And here, again, we will remind the beginner, of the necessity of making and preserving accurate plans of the work, so that every drain may be at any time found by measurement. After a single rotation, it is frequently utterly impossible to perceive upon the surface any indication of the line of the drains.
And here, once more, we want to remind the beginner about the importance of creating and keeping accurate plans of the work, so that each drain can be located at any time through measurement. After just one rotation, it often becomes completely impossible to see any signs on the surface indicating the line of the drains.
In this connection, it may be well perhaps to remind the reader, that whatever arrangements are made as to silt-basins, or peep-holes, must be included in the general plan, and executed as the work proceeds.
In this context, it might be good to remind the reader that any arrangements made for silt-basins or peep-holes need to be included in the overall plan and carried out as the work progresses.
CHAPTER XIII[258]
EFFECTS OF DRAINAGE UPON THE CONDITION OF THE SOIL.
Drainage deepens the Soil, and gives the roots a larger pasture.—Cobbett's Lucerne 30 feet deep.—Mechi's Parsnips 13 feet long!—Drainage promotes Pulverization.—Prevents Surface-Washing.—Lengthens the Season.—Prevents Freezing out.—Dispenses with Open Ditches.—Saves 25 per cent. of Labor.—Promotes absorption of Fertilizing Substances from the Air.—Supplies Air to the Roots.—Drains run before Rain; so do some Springs.—Drainage warms the Soil.—Corn sprouts at 55°; Rye on Ice.—Cold from Evaporation.—Heat will not pass downward in Water.—Count Rumford's Experiments with Hot Water on Ice.—Aeration of Soil by Drains.
Drainage deepens the soil and gives the roots more room to grow. — Cobbett’s Lucerne is 30 feet deep. — Mechi’s parsnips are 13 feet long! — Drainage encourages soil breakdown. — It prevents surface washing. — It extends the growing season. — It stops freezing out. — It eliminates the need for open ditches. — It saves 25% of labor. — It helps absorb nutrients from the air. — It supplies air to the roots. — Drains work before it rains; so do some springs. — Drainage warms the soil. — Corn germinates at 55°F; rye can grow on ice. — Cold comes from evaporation. — Heat won’t transfer downwards in water. — Count Rumford's experiments used hot water on ice. — It aerates the soil through drainage.
The benefits which high-lands, as we ordinarily call them, in distinction from swamp or flowed lands, derive from drainage, may be arranged in two classes, mechanical and chemical; though it is not easy, nor, indeed, is it important, to maintain this distinction in all points. Among those which partake rather of the nature of mechanical changes, are the following:
The benefits that highlands, as we usually refer to them, in contrast to swamps or flooded lands, get from drainage can be grouped into two categories, mechanical and chemical; although it's not easy, and honestly not that important, to keep this distinction in every instance. Some of the benefits that are more related to mechanical changes include the following:
Drainage deepens the soil. Every one who has attempted to raise deep-rooted vegetables upon half-drained swamp-land, has observed the utter impossibility of inducing them to extend downward their usual length. Parsnips and carrots, on such land, frequently grow large at the top, but divide into numerous small fibres just below the surface, and spread in all directions. No root, except those of aquatic plants, will grow in stagnant water. If, therefore, it is of any advantage to have a deep, rather than a shallow soil, it is manifestly necessary, from this consideration alone, to lower the line of standing water,[259] at least, to the extent to which the roots of our cultivated crops descend. A deep soil is better than a shallow one, because it furnishes a more extensive feeding-ground for the roots. The elements of nutrition, which the plant finds in the soil, are not all upon the surface. Many of them are washed down by the rains into the subsoil, and some are found in the decomposing rocks themselves. These, the plants, by a sort of instinct, search out and find, as well in the depths of the earth as at its surface, if no obstacle opposes. By striking deep roots again, the plants stand more firmly in the earth, so that they are not so readily drawn out, or shaken by the winds. Indeed, every one knows that a soil two feet deep is better than one a foot deep; and market-gardeners and nursery-men show, by their practice, that they know, if others do not, that a trenched soil three feet deep is better than one of any less depth. We all know that Indian corn, in a dry soil, sends down its rootlets two feet or more, as well as most of the grasses. Cobbett says: "The lucerne will send its roots thirty feet into a dry bottom!" The Chinese yam, recently introduced, grows downward two or three feet. The digging of an acre of such a crop, by the way, on New England soil generally, would require a corps of sappers and miners, especially when we consider that the yam grows largest end downward. However, the yam may prove a valuable acquisition to the country. Every inch of additional soil gives 100 tons of active soil per acre.
Drainage improves the soil. Anyone who has tried to grow deep-rooted vegetables on partially drained swamp land has seen how impossible it is to get them to extend their roots downward as usual. Parsnips and carrots on such land often grow large on top but split into many small strands just below the surface and spread out in all directions. No root, except for those of aquatic plants, will thrive in stagnant water. Therefore, if having deep soil is more beneficial than shallow soil, it’s clear that we need to lower the level of standing water[259] at least to the depth where our cultivated crops’ roots reach. Deep soil is better than shallow soil because it provides a larger area for roots to draw nutrients. The nutrients that plants find in the soil aren't all on the surface. Many are washed down by rain into the subsoil, and some are located in the decomposing rocks themselves. Plants instinctively seek these out, reaching both deep into the earth and at the surface, as long as there are no barriers. By digging deep roots, plants anchor themselves more securely in the ground, making them less likely to be uprooted or shaken by the wind. In fact, everyone knows that a soil depth of two feet is better than one foot deep; and market gardeners and nursery operators demonstrate through their practices that they understand a trenched soil of three feet is better than a shallower one. We also know that corn, in dry soil, sends its roots down two feet or more, along with most grasses. Cobbett noted: "The lucerne will send its roots thirty feet into a dry bottom!" The Chinese yam, which has recently been introduced, can grow down two or three feet. Digging up an acre of this crop on New England soil would require a team of sappers and miners, especially since the yam grows largest end downward. Nevertheless, the yam might be a valuable asset for the country. Every additional inch of soil provides 100 tons of effective soil per acre.
Says Mr. Denton:
Says Mr. Denton:
"I have evidence now before me, that the roots of the wheat plant, the mangold wurzel, the cabbage, and the white turnip, frequently descend into the soil to the depth of three feet. I have myself traced the roots of wheat nine feet deep. I have discovered the roots of perennial grasses in drains four feet deep; and I may refer to Mr. Mercer, of Newton, in Lancashire, who has traced the roots of rye grass running for many feet along a small pipe-drain, after descending four feet through the soil. Mr. Hetley, of Orton, assures me that he[260] discovered the roots of the mangolds, in a recently made drain, five feet deep; and the late Sir John Conroy had many newly-made drains, four feet deep, stopped by the roots of the same plants."
"I have evidence in front of me that the roots of the wheat plant, mangold wurzel, cabbage, and white turnip often stretch down into the soil as deep as three feet. I have personally traced wheat roots down to nine feet. I have found the roots of perennial grasses in drains four feet deep; and I can mention Mr. Mercer from Newton in Lancashire, who traced the roots of rye grass running many feet along a small pipe-drain after going down four feet through the soil. Mr. Hetley from Orton tells me that he[260] found the roots of mangolds in a newly made drain five feet deep; and the late Sir John Conroy had several newly made drains four feet deep blocked by the roots of those same plants."
Mr. Sheriff Mechi's parsnips, however, distance anything in the way of deep rooting that has yet been recorded. The Sheriff is a very deep drainer, and an enthusiast in agriculture, and Nature seems to delight to humor his tastes, by performing a great many experiments at his famous place called Tiptree Hall. He stated, at a public meeting, that, in his neighborhood, where a crop of parsnips was growing on the edge of a clay pit, the roots were observed to descend 13 feet 6 inches; in fact, the whole depth to which this pit had once been filled up!
Mr. Sheriff Mechi's parsnips, however, surpass anything that has been recorded when it comes to deep rooting. The Sheriff is a dedicated farmer and an enthusiast in agriculture, and Nature seems to enjoy accommodating his preferences by conducting numerous experiments at his well-known place called Tiptree Hall. He mentioned at a public meeting that, in his area, where a crop of parsnips was growing on the edge of a clay pit, the roots were found to reach down 13 feet 6 inches; in fact, that was the entire depth to which this pit had once been filled!
Drainage assists pulverization. It was Tull's theory that, by the comminution, or minute division, of soils alone, without the application of any manures, their fertility might be permanently maintained; and he so far supported this theory as, by repeated plowings, to produce twelve successive crops of wheat on the same land, without manure. The theory has received support from the known fact, that most soils are benefitted by Summer fallowing. The experiments instituted for the purpose of establishing this theory, although they disproved it, showed the great value of thorough pulverization. It is manifest that a wet soil can never be pulverized. Plowing clayey, or even loamy soil, when wet, tends rather to press it together, and render it less pervious to air and water.
Drainage helps with breaking up the soil. Tull believed that by breaking down soils into smaller pieces, without using any fertilizers, their fertility could be maintained over time. He even demonstrated this theory by growing twelve consecutive crops of wheat in the same field without any manure through repeated plowing. This idea gained some support from the fact that most soils improve with Summer fallowing. However, the experiments aimed at proving this theory ultimately disproved it, while highlighting the importance of thorough soil pulverization. It's clear that wet soil can’t be effectively broken up. Plowing wet clayey or even loamy soil tends to compact it, making it less receptive to air and water.
The first effect of under-draining is to dry the surface-soil, to draw out all the water that will run out of it, so that, in early Spring, or in Autumn, it may be worked with the plow as advantageously as undrained lands in mid-Summer.
The first effect of under-draining is to dry the topsoil, removing all the water that can drain away, so that, in early spring or autumn, it can be plowed as effectively as undrained fields in mid-summer.
Striking illustrations of the benefits of thorough pulverization will be found in the excellent remarks of Dr. Madden, given in a subsequent chapter.[261]
Striking illustrations of the benefits of thorough pulverization will be found in the excellent remarks of Dr. Madden, given in a subsequent chapter.[261]
Drainage prevents surface-washing. All land which is not level, and is not in grass, is liable to great loss by heavy rains in Spring and Autumn. If the land is already filled with water, or has not sufficient drainage, the rain cannot pass directly downward, but runs away upon the surface, carrying with it much of the soil, and washing out of what remains, of the valuable elements of fertility which have been applied with such expense. If the land be properly drained, the water falling from the clouds is at once absorbed, and passes downwards, saturating the soil in its descent, and carrying the soluble substances with it to the roots, and the surplus water runs away in the artificial channels provided by the draining process. So great is the absorbent power of drained land, that, after a protracted drought, all the water of a heavy rainstorm will be drunk up and held by the soil, so that, for a day or two, none will find its way to the drains, nor will it run upon the surface.
Drainage prevents surface washing. Any land that isn't flat and isn't covered in grass is at risk of significant loss during heavy rains in the spring and autumn. If the land is already saturated or has poor drainage, rainwater can't soak down but instead runs off the surface, taking much of the soil with it and washing away the valuable nutrients that were added at great cost. However, if the land is properly drained, rainwater is quickly absorbed and sinks down, hydrating the soil as it goes and transporting soluble nutrients to the roots while any excess water flows away through the artificial channels created by the drainage system. The absorbent ability of drained land is so effective that after a long dry spell, a heavy rainstorm's water will be absorbed and held by the soil, meaning that for a day or two, none will reach the drains or run off the surface.
Drainage lengthens the season for labor and vegetation. In the colder latitudes of our country, where a long Winter is succeeded by a torrid Summer, with very little ceremony by way of an intervening Spring, farmers have need of all their energy to get their seed seasonably into the ground. Snow often covers the fields in New England into April; and the ground is so saturated with water, that the land designed for corn and potatoes, frequently cannot be plowed till late in May. The manure is to be hauled from the cellar or yard, over land lifted and softened by frost, and all the processes of preparing and planting, are necessarily hurried and imperfect. In the Annual Report of the Secretary of the Board of Agriculture, of the State of Maine, for 1856, a good illustration of this idea is given: "Mr. B. F. Nourse, of Orrington, plowed and planted with corn a piece of his drained and subsoiled land, in a drizzling rain, after a storm of two days. The[262] corn came up and grew well; yet this was a clayey loam, formerly as wet as the adjoining grass-field, upon which oxen and carts could not pass, on the day of this planting, without cutting through the turf and miring deeply. The nearest neighbor said, if he had planted that day, it must have been from a raft." Probably two weeks would be gained in New England, in Spring, in which to prepare for planting, by thorough-drainage, a gain, which no one can appreciate but a New England man, who has been obliged often to plow his land when too wet, to cut it up and overwork his team, in hauling on his manure over soft ground, and finally to plant as late as the 6th of June, or leave his manure to waste, and lose the use of his field till another season; and all because of a surplus of cold water.
Drainage extends the working season and encourages plant growth. In the colder regions of our country, where a long winter is followed by a scorching summer, with hardly any spring in between, farmers need all their energy to get their seeds in the ground on time. Snow often covers the fields in New England until April; and the soil is so soaked with water that the land intended for corn and potatoes often can't be plowed until late May. Farmers have to haul manure from the cellar or yard across land softened by frost, and all the steps of preparing and planting are rushed and imperfect. The Annual Report of the Secretary of the Board of Agriculture for the State of Maine in 1856 provides a good example of this: "Mr. B. F. Nourse of Orrington plowed and planted corn on his drained and subsoiled land in a light rain after two days of storm. The[262] corn sprouted and grew well; yet this was a clayey loam that used to be as wet as the neighboring grass field, where oxen and carts couldn’t pass on the day of planting without getting stuck. The nearest neighbor remarked that if he had planted that day, he must have done so from a raft." With effective drainage, New England could probably gain two weeks in spring to prepare for planting—a benefit that only someone from New England, who has often had to plow wet land, overwork their team, and haul manure over muddy ground, can truly appreciate. Otherwise, they end up planting as late as June 6 or letting their manure go to waste, losing the use of their fields until the next season—all because of excess cold water.
Mr. Yeomans, of New York, in a published statement of his experience in draining, says, that on his drained lands, "the ground becomes almost as dry in two or three days after the frost comes out in Spring, or after a heavy rain, as it would do in as many weeks, before draining." But the gain of time for labor is not all. We gain time also for vegetation, by thorough-drainage. Ten days, frequently, in New England, may be the security of our corn-crop against frost. In less than that time, a whole field passes from the milky stage, when a slight frost would ruin it, to the glazed stage, when it is safe from cold; and twice ten days of warm season are added by this removal of surplus water.
Mr. Yeomans from New York, in a published account of his experience with drainage, states that on his drained lands, "the ground becomes almost as dry in two or three days after the frost leaves in spring, or after heavy rain, as it would in several weeks before draining." But the time saved for labor isn't the only benefit. We also gain time for crops thanks to thorough drainage. In New England, ten days can often mean the difference in our corn crop's survival against frost. In less than that time, an entire field can move from the milky stage, when even a light frost would destroy it, to the glazed stage, when it’s safe from cold. This drainage process adds an extra twenty days of warm weather to the growing season by removing excess water.
Drainage prevents freezing out. Mr. John Johnston, of Seneca County, New York, in 1851, had already made sixteen miles of tile drains. He had been experimenting with tiles from 1835, and had, on four acres of his drained clayey land, raised the largest crop of Indian corn ever produced in that county—eighty-three bushels of shelled corn to the acre.[263]
Drainage prevents freezing out. Mr. John Johnston, from Seneca County, New York, in 1851, had already installed sixteen miles of tile drains. He had been testing tiles since 1835 and had, on four acres of his drained clayey land, harvested the largest crop of corn ever recorded in that county—eighty-three bushels of shelled corn per acre.[263]
He states, that on this clayey soil, when laid down to grass, "not one square foot of the clover froze out." Again he says, "Heretofore, many acres of wheat were lost on the upland by freezing out, and none would grow on the lowlands. Now there is no loss from that cause."
He says that on this clayey soil, when it's turned into grass, "not a single square foot of the clover froze." He also mentions, "In the past, many acres of wheat were lost on the uplands due to freezing, and nothing would grow in the lowlands. Now, there’s no loss from that reason."
The growing of Winter wheat has been entirely abandoned in some localities on account of freezing out, or Winter-killing; and one of the worst obstacles in the way of getting our lands into grass, and keeping them so, is this very difficulty of freezing out. The operation seems to be merely this: The soil is pulverized only to the depth of the plow, some six or eight inches. Below this is a stratum of clay, nearly impervious to water. The Autumn rains saturate the surface soil, which absorbs water like a sponge. The ground is suddenly frozen; the water contained in it crystallizes into ice; and the soil is thrown up into spicules, or honey-combs; and the poor clover roots, or wheat plants, are drawn from their beds, and, by a few repetitions of the process, left dead on the field in Spring. Draining, followed by subsoiling, lets down the falling water at once through the soil, leaving the root bed of the plants so free from moisture, that the earth is not "heaved," as the term is, and the plants retain their natural position, and awaken refreshed in the Spring by their Winter's repose.
The cultivation of winter wheat has been completely dropped in some areas because of freezing conditions, or winter kill. One of the biggest challenges for turning our land into grass and keeping it that way is this issue of freezing out. The process works like this: The soil is tilled to about the depth of the plow, roughly six to eight inches. Underneath is a layer of clay that hardly lets water through. The autumn rains soak into the surface soil, which absorbs water like a sponge. Suddenly, the ground freezes; the water trapped in it turns to ice, and the soil is pushed up into spikes or a honeycomb structure. The poor clover roots or wheat plants get pulled from their beds, and after a few cycles of this, they end up dead in the spring. Draining the area and then subsoiling allows the water to flow through the soil right away, which keeps the root zone of the plants dry enough that the soil doesn’t get “heaved,” as it’s called. This allows the plants to stay in their natural position and wake up refreshed in the spring after their winter rest.
There are no open ditches on under-drained land. An open ditch in a tillage or mowing-field, is an abomination. It compels us, in plowing, to stop, perhaps midway in our field; to make short lands; to leave headlands inconvenient to cultivate; and so to waste our time and strength in turning the team, and treading up the ground, instead of profitably employing it in drawing a long and handsome furrow the whole length of the field, as we might do were there no ditch. Open ditches, as usually made, obstruct the movement of our teams as[264] much as fences, and a farm cut into squares by ditches, is nearly as objectionable as a farm fenced off into half or quarter-acre fields.
There are no open ditches on under-drained land. An open ditch in a plowed or mowed field is a real problem. It forces us to stop while plowing, maybe right in the middle of our field; to create smaller strips; to leave awkward areas that are hard to work; and ultimately waste time and effort turning the team around and trampling the ground, instead of using that time to draw a long, smooth furrow all the way down the field, as we could do if there were no ditch. Open ditches, as they are usually constructed, hinder our teams just as much as fences do, and a farm divided into sections by ditches is almost as frustrating as one divided into half or quarter-acre fields.
In haying, we have the same inconvenience. We must turn the mowing-machine and horse-rake at the ditch, and finish by hand-labor, the work on its banks; we must construct bridges at frequent intervals, and then go out of our way to cross them with loads, cutting up the smooth fields with wheels and the feet of animals. Or, what is a familiar scene, when a shower is coming up, and the load is ready, Patrick concludes to drive straight to the barn, across the ditch, and gets his team mired, upsets his load, and perhaps breaks the leg of an animal, besides swearing more than half a mile of hard ditching will expiate. Such accidents are a great temptation to profanity, and under-draining might properly be reckoned a moral agent, to counteract such traps and pitfalls of the great adversary.
In haying, we face the same hassle. We have to turn the mowing machine and horse rake at the ditch, finishing the work along its banks by hand; we need to build bridges at regular intervals and then detour to cross them with loads, tearing up the smooth fields with wheels and animal hooves. Or, in a familiar scenario, when a storm is approaching and the load is ready, Patrick decides to drive straight to the barn across the ditch, gets his team stuck, spills his load, and maybe even breaks an animal’s leg, swearing that more than half a mile of tough ditching will make up for it. These accidents easily lead to cursing, and under-draining might be seen as a way to help avoid such traps and pitfalls set by the great adversary.
A moment's thought will satisfy any farmer who has the means, that true economy dictates a liberal expenditure of labor, at once, to obviate these difficulties, rather than be subject for a lifetime to the constant petty annoyances which have been named.
A moment's thought will convince any farmer who has the means that true efficiency calls for a generous investment of labor upfront to avoid these difficulties, rather than dealing with constant small annoyances for a lifetime.
Open ditches, even when formed so skillfully that they may be conveniently crossed, or water-furrows which remain where land is laid into ridges by back-furrowing, as much of our flat land must be, if not under-drained, are serious obstructions, at the best.
Open ditches, even when designed well enough to be easily crossed, or water furrows that stay where the land is shaped into ridges by back-furrowing, which is necessary for much of our flat land if it isn't under-drained, are significant obstacles, at best.
They render the soil unequal in depth, taking it from one point where it is wanted, and heaping it upon another where it is not wanted, thus giving the crops an uneven growth. They render the soil also unequal in respect to moisture, because the back or top of the ridge must always be drier than the furrow.
They make the soil uneven in depth, removing it from one area where it's needed and piling it on another area where it isn't, which results in uneven crop growth. They also create unequal moisture levels in the soil because the top of the ridge is always drier than the bottom of the furrow.
Thorough-drained land may be laid perfectly flat, giving us, thus, the control of the whole field, to divide and cultivate[265] according to convenience, and making it of uniform texture and temperature.
Thoroughly drained land can be leveled out, allowing us to manage the entire field, divide it, and cultivate it[265] as needed, creating a consistent texture and temperature.
Attempts have been made, to estimate the saving in the number of horses and men by drainage, and it is thought to be a reasonable calculation to fix it at one in four, or twenty-five per cent. It probably will strike any farmer as a fair estimate, that, on land which needs drainage, it will require four horses and four men to perform the same amount of cultivation, that three men and three horses may perform on the same land well drained.
Attempts have been made to estimate the savings in the number of horses and people due to drainage, and it seems reasonable to set that at one in four, or twenty-five percent. Any farmer would likely see this as a fair estimate: on land that needs drainage, it typically takes four horses and four people to do the same amount of work that three people and three horses can accomplish on the same well-drained land.
Drained land will not require re-planting. There is hardly a farmer in New England, who does not, each Spring, find himself compelled to re-plant some portion of his crop. He is obliged to hurry his seed into the ground, at the earliest day, because our season for planting is short at the best. If, after this, a long cold storm comes, on wet land, the seed rots in the ground, and he must plant again, often too late, incurring thus the loss of the seed, the labor of twice doing the same work, the interruption of his regular plan of business, and often the partial failure of his crop.
Drained land won't need to be replanted. Almost every farmer in New England finds himself having to replant part of his crop every Spring. He's forced to get his seeds in the ground as soon as possible because our planting season is short, to begin with. If a long cold storm hits after that on wet land, the seeds rot in the ground, and he has to plant again, often too late, resulting in the loss of the seeds, the extra labor of doing the same work twice, disruptions to his business plan, and often a partial failure of his crop.
Upon thorough-drained land, this cost and labor could rarely be experienced, because nothing short of a small deluge could saturate well drained land, so as to cause the seed to fail, if sowed or planted with ordinary care and prudence, as to the season.
Upon thoroughly drained land, this cost and labor could rarely be experienced because nothing less than a small deluge could soak well-drained land enough to cause the seed to fail if sown or planted with regular care and caution regarding the season.
Drained land is lighter to work. It is often difficult to find a day in the year, when a wet piece of land is in suitable condition to plow. Usually, such tracts are unequal, some parts being much wetter than others, because the water settles into the low places. In such fields, we now drive our team knee deep into soft mud, and find a stream of water following us in the furrow, and now we rise upon a knoll, baked hard, and sun-cracked; and one half the surface when finished is shining with the[266] plastered mud, ready to dry into the consistency of bricks, while the other is already in hard dry lumps, like paving stones, and about as easily pulverized.
Drained land is easier to work with. It's often hard to find a day in the year when a wet piece of land is ready to be plowed. Usually, these areas are uneven, with some parts being much wetter than others because water collects in the low spots. In these fields, we often drive our team knee-deep into soft mud, and a stream of water follows us in the furrow. Then we rise onto a knoll, baked hard and cracked by the sun; and one half of the surface, when finished, shines with the[266] plastered mud, ready to dry into the consistency of bricks, while the other is already in hard, dry lumps like paving stones, and just as difficult to break apart.
This is hard work for the team and men, hard in the plowing, and hard through the whole rotation. The same field, well drained, is friable and porous, and uniform in texture. It may be well plowed and readily pulverized, if taken in hand at any reasonable season.
This is tough work for the team and the men, tough when plowing and tough throughout the entire rotation. The same field, properly drained, is loose and breathable, and consistent in texture. It can be plowed well and easily broken down if tackled at the right time of year.
Land which has been puddled by the tread of cattle, or by wheels, acquires a peculiar consistency, and a singular capacity to hold water. Certain clays are wet and beaten up into this consistency, to form the bottoms of ponds, and to tighten dams and reservoirs. A soil thus puddled, requires careful treatment to again render it permeable to water, and fit for cultivation. This puddling process is constantly going on, under the feet of cattle, under the plow and the cart-wheels, wherever land containing clay is worked upon in a wet state. Thus, by performing a day's work on wet land, we often render necessary as much additional labor as we perform, to cure the evil we have done.
Land that’s been compacted by the weight of cattle or wheels develops a unique texture and special ability to hold water. Certain types of clay are soaked and compacted to create the bottoms of ponds and to strengthen dams and reservoirs. Soil that’s been compacted in this way needs careful handling to make it permeable to water again and suitable for farming. This compaction process happens continuously under the feet of cattle, under the plow, and under cart wheels whenever clay-rich land is worked on while it’s wet. So, by working on wet land for a day, we often end up needing as much extra work to fix the damage we've caused.
We may haul loads without injury on drained land. On many farms, it is difficult to select a season for hauling out manure, or carting stones from place to place, when great injury is not done to some part of the land by the operation. Many farmers haul out their manure in Winter, to avoid cutting up their farms; admitting that the manure is wasted somewhat by the exposure, but, on the whole, choosing this loss as the lesser evil. In spreading manure in Spring, we are often obliged to carry half loads, because the land is soft, not only to spare our beasts, but also to spare our land the injury by treading it. Drained land is comparatively solid, especially in Spring, and will bear up heavy loads with little injury.[267]
We can transport loads safely on drained land. On many farms, it’s hard to choose a time to haul out manure or move stones around without causing damage to some part of the land. Many farmers take out their manure in the winter to prevent tearing up their fields, even though they acknowledge that some of it gets wasted from exposure. They prefer this loss as the lesser issue. When spreading manure in the spring, we often have to carry lighter loads because the ground is soft—not just to protect our animals, but also to avoid harming the land with our weight. Drained land is relatively firm, especially in the spring, and can support heavy loads with minimal damage.[267]
Drained land is least injured by cattle in feeding. Whether it is good husbandry to feed our mowing fields at any time, is a question upon which farmers have a right to differ. Without discussing the question, it is enough for our purpose, that most farmers feed their fields late in the Autumn. Whether we approve it, or not, when the pastures are bare and burnt up, and the second crop in the home-field is so rich and tempting, and the women are complaining that the cows give no milk, we usually bow to the necessity of the time, and "turn in" the cows. The great injury of "Fall-feeding" is not usually so much the loss of the grass-covering from the field, as the poaching of the soil and destruction of the roots by treading. A hard upland field is much less injured by feeding, than a low meadow, and the latter less in a dry than a wet season. By drainage, the surplus water is taken from the field. None can stand upon its surface for a day after the rain ceases. The soil is compact, and the hoofs of cattle make little impression upon it, and the second or third crop may be fed off, with comparatively little damage.
Drained land is less harmed by cattle when they're fed. Whether it's good farming practice to feed our hay fields at any time is a matter where farmers can have different opinions. Without getting into that debate, it’s enough for our purpose to note that most farmers do feed their fields late in the fall. Whether we agree or disagree, when pastures are bare and dried out, and the second crop in the home field looks so lush and appealing, and the women are complaining that the cows aren’t producing milk, we usually have to accept the circumstances and let the cows graze. The main drawback of "fall feeding" isn’t usually the loss of grass coverage in the field, but rather the damage to the soil and destruction of roots from trampling. A hard upland field suffers much less from feeding than a low meadow, and the latter is less affected in a dry season than in a wet one. By draining, excess water is removed from the field. No water can remain on its surface for even a day after the rain stops. The soil becomes dense, and cattle hooves make little impression on it, allowing for the second or third crop to be grazed with relatively little harm.
Weeds are easily destroyed on drained land. If a weed be dug or pulled up from land that is wet and sticky, it is likely to strike root and grow again, because earth adheres to its roots; whereas, a stroke of the hoe entirely separates the weeds in friable soil from the earth, and they die at once. Every farmer knows the different effect of hoeing, or of cultivating with the horse-hoe or harrow, in a rain storm and in dry weather. In one case, the weeds are rather refreshed by the stirring, and, in the other, they are destroyed. The difference between the surface of drained land and water-soaked land is much the same as that between land in dry weather under good cultivation, and land just saturated by rain.
Weeds are easily killed on drained land. If a weed is dug up or pulled from wet and sticky soil, it’s likely to take root and grow back because dirt clings to its roots. On the other hand, a quick stroke of the hoe completely separates the weeds in loose soil from the earth, and they die immediately. Every farmer understands the different effects of hoeing, or using the horse-hoe or harrow, during a rainstorm compared to dry weather. In one scenario, the weeds are somewhat revitalized by the disturbance, while in the other, they are eliminated. The difference between the surface of drained land and waterlogged land is similar to the difference between land in dry weather that has been well-cultivated and land that is recently soaked by rain.
Again, there are many noxious weeds, such as wild grasses, which thrive only on wet land, and which are[268] difficult to exterminate, and which give us no trouble after the land is lightened and sweetened by drainage. Among the effects of drainage, mainly of a chemical nature, on the soil, are the following:
Again, there are many harmful weeds, like wild grasses, that only grow well in wet land, and they are[268] hard to get rid of. However, once the land is improved and made healthier through drainage, they cause no issues. The main chemical effects of drainage on the soil include the following:
Drainage promotes absorption of fertilizing substances from the air. The atmosphere bears upon its bosom, not only the oxygen essential to the vitality of plants, not only water in the form of vapor, to quench their thirst in Summer droughts, but also various substances, which rise in exhalations from the sea, from decomposing animals and vegetables, from the breathing of all living creatures, from combustion, and a thousand other causes. These would be sufficient to corrupt the very air, and render it unfit for respiration, did not Nature, with her wondrous laws of compensation, provide for its purification. It has already been stated, how the atmosphere returns to the hills, in clouds and vapor, condensed at last to rain, all the water which the rivers carry to the sea; and how the well-drained soil derives moisture, in severest time of need, from its contact with the vapor-loaded air. But the rain and dew return not their waters to the earth without treasures of fertility. Ammonia, which is one of the most valuable substances found in farm-yard manures, and which is a constant result of decomposition, is absorbed in almost incredible quantities by water. About 780 times its own bulk of ammonia is readily absorbed by water at the common temperature and pressure of the atmosphere; and, freighted thus with treasures for the fields, the moisture of the atmosphere descends upon the earth. The rain cleanses the air of its impurities, and conveys them to the plants. The vapors of the marshes, and of the exposed manure heaps of the thriftless farmer, are gently wafted to the well-drained fields of his neighbor, and there, amidst the roots of the well-tilled crops, deposit, at the same time, their moisture and fertilizing wealth.[269]
Drainage helps absorb nutrients from the air. The atmosphere carries not only the oxygen essential for plant life, and water in the form of vapor to quench their thirst during hot summers, but also various substances that emerge from the sea, decomposing animals and plants, the breathing of all living beings, combustion, and countless other sources. These would be enough to pollute the air, making it unbreathable, if Nature didn’t have her incredible systems of balance to ensure its purification. It has already been mentioned how the atmosphere returns to the hills, in clouds and vapor, which finally condenses into rain, all the water that the rivers send to the sea; and how well-drained soil collects moisture during the driest times through its contact with vapor-rich air. But the rain and dew don’t bring their waters back to the earth without also carrying beneficial nutrients. Ammonia, which is one of the most valuable components in farmyard fertilizers, and a constant product of decomposition, is absorbed in almost astonishing amounts by water. Water can absorb about 780 times its own volume in ammonia at standard atmospheric temperature and pressure; thus, loaded with treasures for the fields, the moisture from the atmosphere falls to the earth. The rain cleans the air of its impurities and delivers them to the plants. The vapors from marshes and the exposed manure piles of careless farmers are gently carried over to the well-drained fields of their neighbor, where they deposit both their moisture and nutrient-rich goodness among the roots of the well-tended crops.[269]
Of the wonderful power of the soil to absorb moisture, both from the heavens above and the earth beneath—by the deposition of dew, as well as by attraction—we shall treat more fully in another chapter. It will be found to be intimately connected with the present topic.
Of the amazing ability of the soil to soak up moisture, both from the sky above and the ground below—through dew as well as by attraction—we will discuss in more detail in another chapter. It will be closely related to the current topic.
Thorough drainage supplies air to the roots. Plants, if they do not breathe like animals, require for their life almost the same constant supply of air. "All plants," says Liebig, "die in soils and water destitute of oxygen; absence of air acts exactly in the same manner as an excess of carbonic acid. Stagnant water on a marshy soil excludes air, but a renewal of water has the same effect as a renewal of air, because water contains it in solution. When the water is withdrawn from a marsh, free access is given to the air, and the marsh is changed into a fruitful meadow." Animal and vegetable matter do not decay, or decompose, so as to furnish food for plants, unless freely supplied with oxygen, which they must obtain from air. A slight quantity of air, however, is sufficient for putrefaction, which is a powerful deoxydizing process that extracts oxygen even from the roots of plants.
Good drainage allows air to reach the roots. Plants may not breathe like animals, but they still need a steady supply of air to survive. "All plants," says Liebig, "die in soils and water lacking oxygen; the absence of air has the same effect as too much carbon dioxide. Stagnant water on marshy soil prevents air from getting in, but introducing fresh water has the same effect as bringing in fresh air because water holds oxygen in solution. When the water is drained from a marsh, air can enter freely, and the marsh transforms into a productive meadow." Organic matter from animals and plants won’t decay or break down to provide nutrition for plants unless it's well-supplied with oxygen from the air. However, only a small amount of air is needed for decomposition, which is a strong process that removes oxygen even from the roots of plants.
We are accustomed to think of the earth as a compact body of matter, vast and inert; subject, indeed, to be upheaved and rent by volcanoes and earthquakes, but as quite insensible to slight influences which operate upon living beings and upon vegetation. This, however, is a great mistake; and it may be interesting to refer to one or two facts, which illustrate the wonderful effect of changes of the atmosphere upon the soil, and upon the subterranean currents of the earth. The following is from remarks by Mr. Denton, in a public address:
We tend to think of the earth as a solid mass, huge and unchanging; affected, sure, by volcanoes and earthquakes, but seemingly unaffected by the small influences that impact living things and plants. This, however, is a huge misunderstanding; and it might be worth mentioning a couple of facts that show the amazing effects of atmospheric changes on the soil and on the underground currents of the earth. The following is from comments by Mr. Denton in a public address:
"But, as a proof of the sensibility of a soil drained four feet deep, to atmospheric changes, I may mention, that my attention has been, on more than one occasion, called to the circumstance that drains have been observed to run, after a discontinuance of that duty, without any[270] fall of rain on the surface of the drained land; and, upon reference to the barometer, it has been found that the quicksilver has fallen whenever this has occurred. Mr. George Beaumont, jun., who first afforded tangible evidence of this extraordinary circumstance, has permitted me to read the following extracts of his letter:
"But, as proof of how sensitive a soil drained four feet deep is to atmospheric changes, I should point out that I've noticed more than once that drains continue to run after stopping that function, even without any[270] rain on the surface of the drained land; and when checking the barometer, it has been observed that the mercury has dropped whenever this happens. Mr. George Beaumont, Jr., who first provided tangible evidence of this remarkable situation, has allowed me to share the following excerpts from his letter:
"'I can verify the case of the drains running without rain, during a falling barometer, beyond all doubt.
"I can confirm the situation of the drains flowing without rain, when the barometer is dropping, without any doubt."
"'The case I named to you last year of the barometer falling four days consecutively, and with rapidity, was a peculiarly favorable time for noticing it, as it occurred in a dry time, and the drains could be seen distinctly. My man, on being questioned and cautioned by me not to exaggerate, has declared the actual stream of water issuing from one particular drain to be as thick as a three-eighth-inch wire. All the drains ran—they did more than drop—and ditches, which were previously dry, became quite wet, with a perceptible stream of water; this gradually ceased with the change in the density of the atmosphere, as shown by the barometer.
"The situation I mentioned to you last year about the barometer dropping for four straight days and doing so quickly was an especially good time to observe it since it happened during a dry period, and the drains were clearly visible. When I asked my guy about it and warned him not to exaggerate, he said the actual flow of water coming from one specific drain was as thick as a three-eighth-inch wire. All the drains were flowing—they weren't just dripping—and ditches that had been dry turned quite wet, with a noticeable stream of water; this eventually stopped as the density of the atmosphere changed, as indicated by the barometer."
"'During last harvest, 1855, the men were cutting wheat, and on getting near to a drain outlet, the ditch from the outlet downwards was observed to be wet, and the drain was dripping. No rain fell in sufficient quantity to enter the ground. The men drank of the water while they were cutting the wheat. A few days after, it was dry again. I have seen and noticed this phenomenon myself.'
"'During the last harvest in 1855, the men were cutting wheat, and when they got close to a drain outlet, they noticed that the ditch below the outlet was wet, and the drain was dripping. There hadn't been any rain that was significant enough to soak into the ground. The men drank the water while they were cutting the wheat. A few days later, it was dry again. I've seen and noticed this phenomenon myself.'"
"A correspondent of the Agricultural Gazette has stated, that Professor Brocklesby, of Hartford, in America, had observed the same phenomena, in the case of two springs in that country; and explained, that the cause was 'the diminished atmospheric pressure which exists before a rain.'"
"A writer for the Agricultural Gazette mentioned that Professor Brocklesby from Hartford, America, had noticed the same phenomenon in two springs there and explained that the cause was 'the lower atmospheric pressure that occurs before it rains.'"
Dr. Lardner states many facts which support the ideas above suggested. In his lectures on science, he says: "When storms are breaking in the heavens, and sometimes long before their commencement, and when their approach has not yet been manifested by any appearances in the firmament, phenomena are observed, apparently sympathetic, proceeding from the deep recesses of the earth, and exhibited under very various forms at its surface." Dr. Lardner cites many instances of fountains which, when a storm is approaching, burst forth with a violent flow of water, before any rain has fallen.[271]
Dr. Lardner presents several facts that support the ideas mentioned earlier. In his science lectures, he states: "When storms are brewing in the sky, sometimes even long before they start, and before any signs of their arrival are visible, we observe phenomena that seem connected, emerging from deep within the earth and appearing in various forms on the surface." Dr. Lardner provides numerous examples of fountains that, as a storm approaches, erupt with a strong flow of water, even before any rain begins to fall.[271]
The cases named by Prof. Brocklesby, referred to by Mr. Denton, are those of a spring in Rutland, Vermont, and a brook in Concord, Massachusetts. Prof. Brocklesby states, as the result of his personal observation, that the spring referred to, supplies an aqueduct; that, in several instances, when the spring had become so low, in a time of drought, that no water ran in the aqueduct, it suddenly rose so as to fill the pipes, and furnish a supply of water, before any rain had fallen in the neighborhood. This occurrence, he says, was familiar to the occupants of the premises, and they expected rain in a few days after this mysterious flow of water; which expectations were usually, if not always, realized.
The cases mentioned by Prof. Brocklesby, as noted by Mr. Denton, are about a spring in Rutland, Vermont, and a brook in Concord, Massachusetts. Prof. Brocklesby observes from his own experience that the spring supplies an aqueduct; on several occasions, when the spring had dropped so low during a drought that no water flowed through the aqueduct, it suddenly rose enough to fill the pipes and provide water before any rain fell in the area. He mentions that this phenomenon was well-known to the residents, who anticipated rain within a few days after this unusual flow of water, and their expectations were typically, if not always, met.
The other instance is that of a brook in Concord, Mass., called Dodge's brook, which Prof. B. says, he was informed, commenced frequently to rise very perceptibly before a drop of rain had fallen.
The other example is a brook in Concord, Mass., called Dodge's brook, which Prof. B. says he was told often starts to rise noticeably even before a drop of rain has fallen.
We have inquired of our friends in Concord about this matter, and find that this opinion is entertained by many of the people who live near this brook, and it is probably well founded, though we cannot ascertain that accurate observations have been made, so as to afford any definite results.
We asked our friends in Concord about this issue and found that many of the locals who live near this stream share this opinion. It's likely a valid point, although we can't confirm that any precise observations have been conducted to provide clear conclusions.
Thorough drainage warms the soil. It has been stated, on high authority, that drainage raises the temperature of the soil, often as much as 15° F. Indian corn vegetates at about 55°. At 45°, the seed would rot in the ground, without vegetating. The writer, however, has seen rye sprouted upon ice in an ice-house, with roots two inches long, so grown to the ice that they could only be separated by thawing. Winter rye, no doubt, makes considerable growth under snow. Cultivated plants, in general, however, do not grow at all, unless the soil be raised above 45°. The sun has great power to warm dry soils, and, it is said, will often raise their temperature to 90° or 100°,[272] when the air in the shade is only 60° or 70°. But the sun has no such power to warm a wet soil, and for several reasons, which are as follows:
Good drainage warms the soil. Experts say that proper drainage can increase soil temperature by as much as 15° F. Corn begins to grow at around 55°. At 45°, seeds would rot in the ground without sprouting. However, I've seen rye sprout on ice in an ice-house, with roots measuring two inches long, so tightly attached to the ice that they could only be separated by melting it. Winter rye, for sure, grows significantly under the snow. Generally, though, cultivated plants won’t grow at all unless the soil temperature is above 45°. The sun has a strong ability to warm dry soils and can sometimes raise their temperature to 90° or 100°[272], while the air in the shade is only 60° or 70°. But the sun doesn't have the same ability to warm wet soil, for several reasons, which are as follows:
1. The soil is rendered cold by evaporation. If water cannot pass through the land by drainage, either natural or artificial, it must escape, if at all, at the surface, by evaporation. Now, it is a fact well known, that the heat disappears, or becomes latent, by the conversion of water into vapor. Every child knows this, practically, at least, who, in Winter, has washed his hands and gone out without drying them. The same evaporation which thus affects the hands, renders the land cold, when filled with water, every gallon of which thus carried off requires, and actually carries off, as much heat as would raise five and a half gallons of water from the freezing to the boiling point.
1. The soil gets cold due to evaporation. If water can’t drain through the land, either naturally or artificially, it must escape at the surface through evaporation. It’s well known that heat disappears or becomes latent when water turns into vapor. Every child knows this from experience, especially in winter when they wash their hands and go outside without drying them. The same evaporation that affects the hands also cools the land when it’s saturated with water; every gallon that evaporates takes away as much heat as is needed to raise five and a half gallons of water from freezing to boiling.
Morton, in his "Encyclopædia of Agriculture," estimates that it would require an expenditure of nearly 1,200 pounds of coal per day, to evaporate artificially one half the rain which falls on an acre during the year. In other words, about 219 tons of coals annually, would be required for every acre of undrained land, so as to allow the free use of the sun's rays for the legitimate purpose of growing and maturing the crops cultivated upon it. It will not then be surprising that undrained soils are, in the language of the farmer, "cold."
Morton, in his "Encyclopedia of Agriculture," estimates that it would take nearly 1,200 pounds of coal each day to artificially evaporate half the rain that falls on an acre in a year. In other words, around 219 tons of coal per year would be needed for each acre of undrained land, to fully utilize the sun's rays for the proper growth and maturity of the crops grown on it. It’s no wonder that undrained soils are, as farmers say, "cold."
2. Heat will not pass downward in water. If, therefore, your soil be saturated with water, the heat of the sun, in Spring, cannot warm it, and your plowing and planting must be late, and your crop a failure. Count Rumford tried many experiments to illustrate the mode of the propagation of heat in fluids, and his conclusion, it is presumed, is now held to be the true theory, that heat is transmitted in water only by the motion of the particles of water; so that, if you could stop the heated particles[273] from rising, water could not be warmed except where it touches the vessel containing it. Heat applied to the bottom of a vessel of water warms the particles in contact with the vessel, and colder particles descend, and so the whole is warmed.
2. Heat does not move downward in water. So, if your soil is soaked with water, the sun's heat in Spring can't warm it, which means your plowing and planting will be delayed, and your crop will likely fail. Count Rumford conducted numerous experiments to demonstrate how heat moves in fluids, and it's now generally accepted that heat in water is transferred solely through the movement of water particles. This means that if you could prevent the heated particles[273] from rising, water would only warm at the point where it touches the container. Heat applied to the bottom of a water container warms the particles in contact with the container, causing cooler particles to sink, which then warms the entire body of water.
Heat, applied to the surface of the water, can never warm it, except so far as it is conducted downward by some other medium than the water itself. Count Rumford confined cakes of ice in the bottom of glass jars, and, covering it with one thickness of paper, poured boiling-hot water on the top of it, and there it remained for hours without melting the ice. The paper was placed over the ice, so that the hot water could not be poured on it, which would have thawed it at once. Every man who has poured hot water into a frozen pump, hoping to thaw out the ice by this means, has arrived at the fact, if not at the theory, that ice will not melt by hot water on the top of it. If, however, a piece of lead pipe be placed in the pump, resting on the ice, and hot water be poured through it, the ice will melt at once. In the first instance, the hot water in contact with the ice becomes cold; and there it remains, because cold water is heavier than warm, and there it will remain, though the top be boiling. But when hot water is poured through the pipe, the downward current drives away the cold water, and brings heated particles in succession to the ice.
Heat applied to the surface of the water can't warm it unless it's conducted downward by something other than the water itself. Count Rumford trapped ice in the bottom of glass jars, put a layer of paper over it, and poured boiling water on top. The ice stayed solid for hours without melting. The paper was used to keep the hot water from directly hitting the ice, which would have melted it immediately. Anyone who has poured hot water into a frozen pump, hoping to thaw the ice, has learned—whether they realized it or not—that ice won't melt just from hot water on top. However, if a piece of lead pipe is placed in the pump, resting on the ice, and hot water is poured through it, the ice melts instantly. In the first case, the hot water that touches the ice cools down and stays there because cold water is denser than warm water, so it remains in place even if the top layer is boiling. But when hot water is poured through the pipe, the downward flow pushes away the cold water and brings heated particles to the ice continuously.
Heat is propagated in water, then, only by circulation; that is, by the upward movement of the heated particles, and the downward movement of the colder ones to take their place. Anything which obstructs circulation, prevents the passage of heat. Chocolate retains heat longer than tea, because it is thicker, and the hot particles cannot so readily rise to be cooled at the surface. Count Rumford illustrated this fact satisfactorily, by putting eider-down into water, which was found to obstruct the[274] circulation, and to prevent the rapid heating and cooling of it. The same is true of all viscous substances, as starch and glue; and so of oil. They retain heat much longer than water or spirits.
Heat moves through water only by circulation; that is, through the upward flow of heated particles and the downward flow of colder ones taking their place. Anything that blocks this circulation stops the transfer of heat. Chocolate holds heat longer than tea because it’s thicker, making it harder for the hot particles to rise and cool at the surface. Count Rumford effectively demonstrated this by placing eider-down in water, which was found to obstruct the[274] circulation and hinder the rapid heating and cooling of the water. The same applies to all thick substances like starch and glue, as well as oil. They hold heat much longer than water or spirits.
In a soil saturated with water, or even in water thickened with mud, there could then be but little circulation of the particles, even were the heat applied at the bottom instead of the top. Probably the soil, though saturated with water, does, to some extent, transmit heat from one particle of earth to another, but it must be but very slowly.
In soil soaked with water, or even in water mixed with mud, there can be very little movement of the particles, even if the heat is applied at the bottom instead of the top. It's likely that the soil, although saturated with water, does transmit heat from one particle to another to some extent, but it happens very slowly.
In the chapter upon Temperature as affected by Drainage, farther illustrations of this point may be found.
In the chapter on Temperature as affected by Drainage, you can find more examples of this point.
AERATION BY DRAINS.
Among the advantages of thorough-drainage, is reckoned by all, the circulation of air through the soil. No drop of water can run from the soil into a drain without its place being supplied by air, unless there is more water to supply it; so that drainage, in this way, manifestly promotes the permeation of air through the soil.
Among the benefits of thorough drainage, everyone agrees on the improved air circulation in the soil. No drop of water can flow from the soil into a drain without being replaced by air, unless there's enough water to take its place; therefore, drainage clearly aids in allowing air to permeate through the soil.
But it is claimed that drains may be made to promote circulation of air in another way, and in dry times, when no water is flowing through them, by connecting them together by means of a header at the upper ends, and leaving an opening so that the air may pass freely through the whole system. Our friend, Prof. Mapes, is an advocate for this practice, and certainly the theory seems well supported. It is said that in dry, hot weather, when the air is most highly charged with moisture, currents thus passing constantly through the earth, must, by contact with the cooler subsoil, part with large quantities of moisture, and tend to moisten the soil from the drains to the surface, giving off also with the moisture whatever of fertilizing elements the air may bear with it.
But it's said that drains can be designed to improve air circulation in another way, and during dry periods, when no water is flowing through them, by connecting them with a header at the upper ends and leaving an opening to allow air to flow freely through the entire system. Our friend, Prof. Mapes, supports this practice, and the theory seems well-founded. It's claimed that in dry, hot weather, when the air is full of moisture, air currents moving through the earth must, by coming into contact with the cooler subsoil, release large amounts of moisture and help to hydrate the soil from the drains to the surface, also bringing along whatever fertilizing elements the air might carry.
This point has not escaped the notice of English drainers.[275] Mr. J. H. Charnock, an assistant commissioner under the Drainage act, in 1843, read a paper in favor of this practice, but in 1849 he published a second article in which he suggests doubts of the advantages of such arrangements, and says he has discontinued their application. He says they add to the cost of the work, and tend to the decay of the pipes, and to promote the growth into the pipes, of any roots that may approach them.
This issue hasn't gone unnoticed by English drainage experts.[275] In 1843, Mr. J. H. Charnock, an assistant commissioner under the Drainage Act, delivered a paper supporting this practice. However, in 1849, he published another article where he expressed doubts about the benefits of these systems and mentioned that he has stopped using them. He noted that they increase the project costs, contribute to the deterioration of the pipes, and encourage roots from nearby plants to grow into the pipes.
Mr. Parkes, in a published article in 1846, speaks of this idea, but passes it by as of very little importance. Mr. Denton quotes the authority of some of his correspondents strongly in favor of this theory. After trying some experiments himself upon clay soil, he admits the advantages of such an arrangement for such soil, in the following not very enthusiastic terms:
Mr. Parkes, in a published article in 1846, mentions this idea but dismisses it as being of little significance. Mr. Denton references the strong support of several of his correspondents for this theory. After conducting some experiments himself on clay soil, he acknowledges the benefits of this arrangement for that type of soil, although he does so in the following not very enthusiastic terms:
"It will be readily understood that as clay will always contract rapidly under the influence of a draught of air, in consequence of the rapid evaporation of moisture from its surface, one of the benefits of draining is thus very cheaply acquired; and for the denser clays it may possibly be a desirable thing to do, but in the porous soils it would appear that no advantage is gained by it."
"It’s easy to see that clay will always shrink quickly when exposed to a draft, due to the fast evaporation of moisture from its surface. One of the benefits of draining is therefore gained quite cheaply. For denser clays, this might be a good practice, but with porous soils, it seems there’s no real advantage to it."
Yet, notwithstanding this summary disposition of the question in England, it is by no means clear, that in the tropical heat of American summers, when the difference between the temperature of the air and the subsoil is so much greater than it can ever be in England, and when we suffer from severer droughts than are common there, we may not find substantial practical advantage from the passage of these air currents through the soil.
Yet, despite this brief handling of the issue in England, it’s not at all obvious that in the sweltering heat of American summers, where the temperature difference between the air and the ground is much greater than it ever is in England, and where we experience harsher droughts than are typical there, we might not see significant practical benefits from these air currents moving through the soil.
We are not aware of experiments in America, accurate enough to be quoted as authority on the subject.
We are not aware of any experiments in America that are accurate enough to be cited as authoritative on the subject.
CHAPTER XIV[276]
DRAINAGE ADAPTS THE SOIL TO GERMINATION AND VEGETATION.
Process of Germination.—Two Classes of Pores in Soils, illustrated by Cuts.—Too much Water excludes Air, reduces Temperature.—How much Air the Soil Contains.—Drainage Improves the Quality of Crops.—Drainage prevents Drought.—Drained Soils hold most Water.—Allow Roots to go Deep.—Various Facts.
Process of Germination.—Two Types of Pores in Soils, illustrated by Images.—Excess Water limits Air, lowers Temperature.—Amount of Air in the Soil.—Drainage Enhances Crop Quality.—Drainage Averts Drought.—Drained Soils Retain More Water.—Enable Roots to Grow Deep.—Various Facts.
No apology will be necessary for the long extract which we are about to give, to any person who will read it with attention. It is from a lecture on Agricultural Science, by Dr. Madden, and we confess ourselves incompetent to condense or improve the language of the learned author.
No apology is needed for the lengthy excerpt we’re about to share, for anyone who reads it attentively. It’s from a lecture on Agricultural Science by Dr. Madden, and we admit we’re not able to shorten or enhance the language of the knowledgeable author.
We think we are safe in saying that it has never been before published in America:
We believe it's safe to say that it has never been published in America before:
"The first thing which occurs after the sowing of the seed is, of course, germination; and before we examine how this process may be influenced by the condition of the soil, we must necessarily obtain some correct idea of the process itself. The most careful examination has proved that the process of germination consists essentially of various chemical changes, which require for their development the presence of air, moisture, and a certain degree of warmth. Now it is obviously unnecessary for our present purpose that we should have the least idea of the nature of these processes: all we require to do, is to ascertain the conditions under which they take place; having detected these, we know at once what is required to make a seed grow. These, we have seen, are air, moisture, and a certain degree of warmth; and it consequently results, that wherever a seed is placed in these circumstances, germination will take place. Viewing matters in this light, it appears[277] that soil does not act chemically in the process of germination; that its sole action is confined to its being the vehicle, by means of which a supply of air and moisture and warmth can be continually kept up. With this simple statement in view, we are quite prepared to consider the various conditions of soil, for the purpose of determining how far these will influence the future prospects of the crop, and we shall accordingly at once proceed to examine carefully into the mechanical relations of the soil. This we propose doing by the aid of figures. Soil examined mechanically, is found to consist entirely of particles of all shapes and sizes, from stones and pebbles, down to the finest powder; and, on account of their extreme irregularity of shape, they cannot lie so close to one another as to prevent there being passages between them, owing to which circumstance soil in the mass is always more or less porous. If, however, we proceed to examine one of the smallest particles of which soil is made up, we shall find that even this is not always solid, but is much more frequently porous, like soil in the mass. A considerable proportion of this finely-divided part of soil, the impalpable matter as it is generally called, is found, by the aid of the microscope, to consist of broken-down vegetable tissue, so that when a small portion of the finest dust from a garden or field is placed under the microscope, we have exhibited to us particles of every variety of shape and structure, of which a certain part is evidently of vegetable origin. In these figures I have given a very rude representation of these particles; and I must beg you particularly to remember that they are not meant to represent by any means accurately what the microscope exhibits, but are only designed to serve as a plan by which to illustrate the mechanical properties of the soil. On referring to Fig. 91, we perceive that there are two distinct classes of pores; first, the large ones, which exist between the particles of soil, and second, the very minute ones, which occur in the particles themselves; and you will at the same time notice, that whereas all the larger pores—those between the[278] particles of soil—communicate most freely with each other, so that they form canals, the small pores, however freely they may communicate with one another in the interior of the particle in which they occur, have no direct connection with the pores of the surrounding particles. Let us now, therefore, trace the effect of this arrangement. In Fig. 91, we perceive that these canals and pores are all empty, the soil being perfectly dry; and the canals communicating freely at the surface with the surrounding atmosphere, the whole will of course be filled with air. If in this condition, a seed be placed in the soil, as at a, you at once perceive that it is freely supplied with air, but there is no moisture; therefore, when soil is perfectly dry, a seed cannot grow.
The first thing that happens after planting a seed is, of course, germination; and before we look into how this process can be affected by soil conditions, we need to understand the process itself. Careful examination has shown that germination consists mainly of various chemical changes, which need air, moisture, and a certain amount of warmth to develop. For our current purpose, we don’t need to know the details of these processes; we just need to identify the conditions that allow them to happen. Once we determine these, we know what is needed for a seed to grow. We've established that these requirements are air, moisture, and a certain amount of warmth; therefore, wherever a seed is placed under these conditions, it will germinate. In this context, it seems[277] that soil does not play a chemical role in germination; its only function is to serve as a medium that continuously provides air, moisture, and warmth. With this simple understanding, we can now examine the various soil conditions to see how they might affect the future success of the crop, and we'll proceed to investigate the mechanical properties of the soil. When analyzed mechanically, soil is made up entirely of particles of different shapes and sizes, ranging from stones and pebbles to fine powder. Due to their irregular shapes, these particles cannot fit closely together, creating spaces between them; as a result, soil is always somewhat porous. However, if we examine one of the smallest soil particles, we find that it is often not solid but more frequently porous, similar to the overall soil. A significant amount of this fine soil, known as impalpable matter, consists of decomposed plant tissue, so when a tiny sample of the finest dust from a garden or field is observed under a microscope, we find particles of various shapes and structures, some clearly of plant origin. In these figures, I have provided a rough representation of these particles; please keep in mind that they do not accurately depict what the microscope shows, but are intended to illustrate the mechanical properties of the soil. Referring to Fig. 91, we see two distinct types of pores: first, the large ones between soil particles, and second, the tiny ones found within the particles themselves. You will also notice that while all the larger pores—those between the[278] soil particles—connect freely to one another and create channels, the small pores, despite communicating well within the particle they occupy, do not connect directly with the pores of neighboring particles. Now, let's trace the effect of this arrangement. In Fig. 91, we observe that these channels and pores are empty, indicating that the soil is perfectly dry; and since the channels freely connect with the surrounding atmosphere at the surface, they will be filled with air. If a seed is placed in this dry soil, as at a, it is readily supplied with air, but there is no moisture; therefore, when soil is perfectly dry, a seed cannot grow.

Fig. 91.
Fig. 91.

Fig. 92.
Fig. 92.
"Let us turn our attention now to Fig. 92. Here we perceive that both the pores and canals are no longer represented white, but black, this color being used to indicate water; in this instance, therefore, water has taken the place of air, or, in other words, the soil is very wet. If we observe our seed a now, we find it abundantly supplied with water, but no air. Here again, therefore, germination cannot take place. It may be well to state here, that this can never occur exactly in nature, because water having the power of dissolving air to a certain extent, the seed a in Fig. 92 is, in fact, supplied with a certain amount of this necessary substance; and, owing to this, germination does take place, although by no means under such advantageous circumstances as it would were the soil in a better condition.
"Now let’s focus on Fig. 92. Here, we can see that both the pores and canals are shown in black instead of white, indicating that water is present; thus, water has replaced air, meaning the soil is very wet. When we look at our seed a now, we see it is filled with water but has no air. Therefore, germination can't happen here either. It's worth mentioning that this situation would never happen exactly in nature because water can dissolve air to some degree. So, in Fig. 92, seed a actually has a certain amount of this essential substance, which allows germination to occur, even though it's not under as favorable conditions as it would be if the soil were in better shape."

Fig. 93.
Fig. 93.

Fig. 94.
Fig. 94.
"We pass on now to Fig. 93. Here we find a different state of matters. The canals are open and freely supplied with air, while the pores are filled with water; and consequently you perceive that, while the seed a has quite enough of air from the canals, it can never be without moisture, as every particle of soil which touches it, is well supplied with this necessary ingredient. This, then, is the proper condition of soil for germination, and in fact for every period of the plant's development; and this condition occurs when soil is moist but not wet—that[279] is to say, when it has the color and appearance of being well watered, but when it is still capable of being crumbled to pieces by the hands, without any of its particles adhering together in the familiar form of mud.
"We now move on to Fig. 93. Here we see a different situation. The canals are open and getting plenty of air, while the pores are filled with water; therefore, you can tell that, while seed a has more than enough air from the canals, it can never lack moisture, since every particle of soil touching it is well supplied with this essential element. This is the ideal condition of soil for germination, and indeed for every stage of the plant's growth; and this condition occurs when soil is moist but not wet—that[279] is to say, when it looks and feels well watered, but can still be crumbled easily by hand, without any of its particles sticking together to form mud."
"Turning our eyes to Fig. 94, we observe still another condition of soil. In this instance, as far as water is concerned, the soil is in its healthy condition—it is moist, but not wet, the pores alone being filled with water. But where are the canals? We see them in a few places, but in by far the greater part of the soil none are to be perceived; this is owing to the particles of soil having adhered together, and thus so far obliterated the interstitial canals, that they appear only like pores. This is the state of matters in every clod of earth, b; and you will at once perceive, on comparing it with c, which represents a stone, that these two differ only in possessing a few pores, which latter, while they may form a reservoir for moisture, can never act as vehicles for the food of plants, as the roots are not capable of extending their fibres into the interior of a clod, but are at all times confined to the interstitial canals.
Turning our attention to Fig. 94, we see another type of soil condition. In this case, regarding water, the soil is in good shape—it’s moist but not soggy, with only the pores filled with water. But where are the canals? We can spot them in a few areas, but for the most part, they’re not visible; this is because the soil particles have stuck together, effectively blocking the interstitial canals so that they look like just pores. This is the situation with every clod of earth, b; and you will quickly notice, when comparing it to c, which represents a stone, that the two are only different in that one has a few pores. These pores, while they can hold moisture, cannot transport food for the plants since the roots cannot spread their fibers into the inside of a clod; they are always limited to the interstitial canals.
"With these four conditions before us, let us endeavor to apply them practically to ascertain when they occur in our fields, and how those which are injurious may be obviated.
"With these four conditions in mind, let's work on applying them practically to determine when they arise in our areas and how we can eliminate those that are harmful."
"The first of them, we perceive, is a state of too great dryness, a very rare condition, in this climate at least; in fact, the only case in which it is likely to occur is in very coarse sands, where the soil, being chiefly made up of pure sand and particles of flinty matter, contains comparatively much fewer pores; and, from the large size of the individual particles, assisted by their irregularity, the canals are wider, the circulation of air freer, and, consequently, the whole is much more easily dried. When this state of matters exists, the best treatment is to leave all the stones which occur on the surface of the field, as they cast shades, and thereby prevent or retard the evaporation of water.
"The first one we notice is a state of excessive dryness, a very rare condition, at least in this climate. In fact, the only situation where it’s likely to happen is in very coarse sands, where the soil primarily consists of pure sand and flinty particles, which have comparatively fewer pores. Because the individual particles are larger and more irregular, the channels are wider, air circulation is better, and as a result, everything dries out much more easily. When this situation occurs, the best approach is to leave all the stones on the surface of the field, as they provide shade and help prevent or slow down water evaporation."
"We will not, however, make any further observations on this very rare case, but will rather proceed to Fig. 92, a much more frequent, and, in every respect, more important condition of soil: I refer to an excess of water.
"We won't make any more comments on this very rare case; instead, we'll move on to Fig. 92, a much more common and, in every way, more significant soil condition: I’m talking about an excess of water."
"When water is added to perfectly dry soil, it, of course, in the first instance, fills the interstitial canals, and from these enters the pores of each particle; and if the supply of water be not too great, the canals speedily become empty, so that the whole of the fluid is taken up by the pores: this, we have already seen, is the healthy condition of the soil. If, however, the supply of water be too great, as is the case when[280] a spring gains admission into the soil, or when the sinking of the fluid through the canals to a sufficient depth below the surface is prevented, it is clear that these also must get filled with water so soon as the pores have become saturated. This, then, is the condition of undrained soil.
"When water is added to completely dry soil, it first fills the spaces between the particles, and then enters the pores of each particle. If the amount of water is not too high, the spaces quickly empty, allowing all of the water to be absorbed by the pores. This, as we've already seen, is the healthy state of the soil. However, if there is too much water, such as when[280] a spring seeps into the soil, or when the water can't sink deep enough through the spaces below the surface, it's clear that these spaces will also fill with water once the pores are saturated. This is what we refer to as undrained soil.
"Not only are the pores filled, but the interstitial canals are likewise full; and the consequence is, that the whole process of the germination and growth of vegetables is materially interfered with. We shall here, therefore briefly state the injurious effects of an excess of water, for the purpose of impressing more strongly on your minds the necessity of thorough-draining, as the first and most essential step towards the improvement of your soil.
"Not only are the pores filled, but the spaces in between are also full; and as a result, the entire process of germination and growth of plants is significantly impacted. We will briefly outline the harmful effects of too much water here, to reinforce in your minds the importance of proper drainage as the first and most crucial step in improving your soil."
"The first great effect of an excess of water is, that it produces a corresponding diminution of the amount of air beneath the surface, which air is of the greatest possible consequence in the nutrition of plants; in fact, if entirely excluded, germination could not take place, and the seed sown would, of course, either decay or lie dormant.
The first major effect of having too much water is that it results in a decrease in the amount of air below the surface, and this air is crucial for the nutrition of plants. In fact, if it's completely cut off, germination won't happen, and the sown seed would either rot or remain inactive.
"Secondly, an excess of water is most hurtful, by reducing considerably the temperature of the soil: this I find, by careful experiment, to be to the extent of six and a-half degrees Fahrenheit in Summer, which amount is equivalent to an elevation above the level of the sea of 1,950 feet.
"Secondly, too much water is very damaging because it significantly lowers the temperature of the soil. Through careful experimentation, I’ve found that this drop can reach up to six and a half degrees Fahrenheit in the summer, which is like being 1,950 feet above sea level."
"These are the two chief injuries of an excess of water in soil which affect the soil itself. There are very many others affecting the climate, &c.; but these not so connected with the subject in hand as to call for an explanation here.
"These are the two main issues caused by too much water in the soil that impact the soil itself. There are many other issues that affect the climate, etc.; however, they are not closely related to the topic at hand and don’t need further explanation here."
"Of course, all these injurious effects are at once overcome by thorough-draining, the result of which is, to establish a direct communication between the interstitial canals and the drains, by which means it follows, that no water can remain any length of time in these canals without, by its gravitation, finding its way into the drains.
"Of course, all these harmful effects are quickly addressed by thorough drainage, which creates a direct connection between the interstitial channels and the drains. This means that no water can stay in these channels for long without being pulled by gravity into the drains."
"The 4th Fig. indicates badly-cultivated soil, or soil in which large unbroken clods exist; which clods, as we have already seen, are very little better than stones, on account of their impermeability to air and the roots of plants.
"The 4th Fig. shows poorly cultivated soil, or soil with large, unbroken clods; and these clods, as we've already discussed, are hardly better than stones because they don’t allow air and plant roots to penetrate."
"Too much cannot be said in favor of pulverizing the soil; even thorough-draining itself will not supersede the necessity of performing this most necessary operation. The whole valuable effects of plowing, harrowing, grubbing, &c., may be reduced to this: and almost the whole superiority of garden over field produce is referable to the greater perfection to which this pulverizing of the soil can be carried.[281]
"There's so much to be said for breaking up the soil; even good drainage won't replace the need for this essential task. All the benefits of plowing, harrowing, and grubbing come down to this, and most of the reason why garden produce is so much better than field produce is due to how thoroughly the soil can be broken up.[281]"
"The whole success of the drill husbandry is owing, in a great measure, to its enabling you to stir up the soil well during the progress of your crop; which stirring up is of no value beyond its effects in more minutely pulverizing the soil, increasing, as far as possible, the size and number of the interstitial canals.
"The entire success of drill farming is largely due to its ability to effectively till the soil throughout the growing season of your crop. This tilling is only valuable for its role in breaking down the soil finer, and maximizing the size and number of the spaces between soil particles."
"Lest any one should suppose that the contents of these interstitial canals must be so minute that their whole amount can be of but little consequence, I may here notice the fact, that, in moderately well pulverized soil, they amount to no less than one-fourth of the whole bulk of the soil itself; for example, 100 cubic inches of moist soil (that is, of soil in which the pores are filled with water while the canals are filled with air), contain no less than 25 cubic inches of air. According to this calculation, in a field pulverized to the depth of eight inches, a depth perfectly attainable on most soils by careful tillage, every imperial acre will retain beneath its surface no less than 12,545,280 cubic inches of air. And, to take one more element into the calculation, supposing the soil were not properly drained, the sufficient pulverizing of an additional inch in depth would increase the escape of water from the surface by upwards of one hundred gallons a day."
"Lest anyone think that the contents of these interstitial canals are so small that they don’t matter much, I’d like to point out that in moderately well-pulverized soil, they actually make up no less than one-fourth of the total volume of the soil itself. For instance, 100 cubic inches of moist soil (meaning soil where the pores are filled with water while the canals are filled with air) contains at least 25 cubic inches of air. Based on this calculation, in a field tilled to a depth of eight inches, which is easily achievable in most soils with careful cultivation, each imperial acre will hold at least 12,545,280 cubic inches of air beneath its surface. And to add one more factor to the mix, if the soil weren’t properly drained, ensuring an additional inch is well-pulverized could increase the water runoff from the surface by over one hundred gallons a day."
Drainage improves the quality of crops. In a dry season, we frequently hear the farmer boast of the quality of his products. His hay-crop, he says, is light, but will "spend" much better than the crop of a wet season; his potatoes are not large, but they are sound and mealy. Indeed, this topic need not be enlarged upon. Every farmer knows that his wheat and corn are heavier and more sound when grown upon land sufficiently drained.
Drainage improves the quality of crops. In a dry season, we often hear farmers brag about the quality of their products. They say their hay is light, but it will "hold up" much better than hay from a wet season; their potatoes might not be large, but they're healthy and fluffy. Honestly, there’s no need to elaborate on this. Every farmer knows that their wheat and corn are heavier and healthier when grown on well-drained land.
Drainage prevents drought. This proposition is somewhat startling at first view. How can draining land make it more moist? One would as soon think of watering land to make it dry. A drought is the enemy we all dread. Professor Espy has a plan for producing rain, by lighting extensive artificial fires. A great objection to his theory is, that he cannot limit his showers to his own land, and all the public would never be ready for a shower on the same day. If we can really protect our land from drought, by under-draining it, everybody may at once engage in the work without offence to his neighbor.[282]
Drainage prevents drought. This idea is a bit surprising at first. How can draining land make it wetter? It’s as if you’d say watering land would dry it out. Drought is the enemy we all fear. Professor Espy has a method for creating rain by lighting large artificial fires. A major issue with his theory is that he can't control where his rain falls, and people would never agree to a rain event on the same day. If we can genuinely safeguard our land from drought by under-draining it, everyone can get involved in this effort without bothering their neighbors.[282]
If we take up a handfull of rich soil of almost any kind, after a heavy rain, we can squeeze it hard enough with the hand to press out drops of water. If we should take of the same soil a large quantity, after it was so dry that not a drop of water could be pressed out by hand, and subject it to the pressure of machinery, we should force from it more water. Any boy, who has watched the process of making cider with the old-fashioned press, has seen the pomace, after it had been once pressed apparently dry and cut down, and the screw applied anew to the "cheese," give out quantities of juice. These facts illustrate, first, how much water may be held in the soil by attraction. They show, again, that more water is held by a pulverized and open soil, than by a compact and close one. Water is held in the soil between the minute particles of earth. If these particles be pressed together compactly, there is no space left between them for water. The same is true of soil naturally compact. This compactness exists more or less in most subsoils, certainly in all through which water does not readily pass. Hence, all these subsoils are rendered more permeable to water by being broken up and divided; and more retentive by having the particles of which they are composed separated, one from another—in a word, by pulverization. This increased capacity to contain moisture by attraction, is the greatest security against drought. The plants, in a dry time send their rootlets throughout the soil, and flourish in the moisture thus stored up for their time of need. The pulverization of drained land may be produced, partly by deep, or subsoil plowing, which is always necessary to perfect the object of thorough-draining; but it is much aided, in stiff clays, also, by the shrinkage of the soil by drying.
If we grab a handful of rich soil after a heavy rain, we can squeeze it hard enough to release drops of water. If we take a larger amount of the same soil when it’s so dry that no water can be squeezed out by hand and use machinery on it, we can extract even more water. Any kid who has seen how cider is made with an old-fashioned press has noticed that after the pomace has been pressed until it seems dry and is cut down, putting the screw back on the “cheese” yields more juice. These facts show, first, how much water can be held in the soil through attraction. They also demonstrate that a loose and open soil holds more water than a compact and tight one. Water is retained in the soil between the tiny particles of earth. When these particles are pressed together tightly, there’s no room left between them for water. This is also true for naturally compact soil. Most subsoils exhibit some level of compactness, especially those that don’t allow water to pass through easily. Therefore, breaking up and separating these subsoils makes them more permeable to water, and separating the particles also makes them better at retaining moisture—in other words, pulverization. This increased ability to hold moisture through attraction provides the best protection against drought. During dry periods, plants send their roots throughout the soil and thrive on the moisture stored for their time of need. The pulverization of drained land can be achieved partly through deep or subsoil plowing, which is always necessary for effective drainage; however, in stiff clay, it is also greatly helped by the soil shrinking as it dries.
Drainage resists drought, again, by the very deepening of the soil of which we have already spoken. The roots[283] of plants, we have seen, will not extend into stagnant water. If, then, as is frequently the case, even on sandy plains, the water-line be, in early Spring, very near the surface, the seed may be planted, may vegetate, and throw up a goodly show of leaves and stalks, which may flourish as long as the early rains continue; but, suddenly, the rains cease; the sun comes out in his June brightness; the water-line lowers at once in the soil; the roots have no depth to draw moisture from below, and the whole field of clover, or of corn, in a single week, is past recovery. Now, if this light, sandy soil be drained, so that, at the first start of the crop, there is a deep seed-bed free from water, the roots strike downward, at once, and thus prepare for a drought. The writer has seen upon deep-trenched land in his own garden, parsnips, which, before midsummer, had extended downward three feet, before they were as large as a common whiplash; and yet, through the Summer drought, continued to thrive till they attained in Autumn a length, including tops, of about seven feet, and an extraordinary size. A moment's reflection will satisfy any one that, the dryer the soil in Spring, the deeper will the roots strike, and the better able will be the plant to endure the Summer's drought.
Drainage helps resist drought by deepening the soil, which we've already discussed. We've seen that plant roots[283] won't extend into stagnant water. So, if the water line is, as often happens, very close to the surface on sandy plains in early spring, the seeds can be planted, grow, and produce a nice display of leaves and stalks as long as the early rains keep coming. But then, suddenly, the rains stop; the sun shines bright in June; the water line drops immediately in the soil; the roots don’t have enough depth to draw moisture from below, and the entire field of clover or corn can be ruined in just a week. However, if this light, sandy soil is drained, so there’s a deep, water-free seedbed at the start of the crop, the roots will grow deep right away, preparing them for a drought. The author has seen parsnips in his own garden on deep-drained land that reached down three feet before midsummer, and they weren't even as big as a standard whip yet; still, during the summer drought, they thrived and grew to about seven feet long, including the tops, and reached an impressive size by autumn. A moment’s thought will convince anyone that the drier the soil in spring, the deeper the roots will grow, making the plant better equipped to survive the summer drought.
Again, drainage and consequent pulverization and deepening of the soils increase their capacity to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, and thus afford protection against drought. Watery vapor is constantly, in all dry weather, rising from the surface of the earth; and plants, in the day-time, are also, from their leaves and bark, giving off moisture which they draw from the soil. But Nature has provided a wonderful law of compensation for this waste, which would, without such provision, parch the earth to barrenness in a single rainless month.
Again, drainage and the resulting breakdown and deepening of the soils enhance their ability to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, providing protection against drought. Water vapor is continuously rising from the surface of the earth during dry weather, and during the day, plants release moisture from their leaves and bark, which they take from the soil. However, Nature has created a remarkable system of compensation for this loss, without which the earth would become barren in just one month without rain.
The capacity of the atmosphere to take up and convey water, furnishes one of the grandest illustrations of the[284] perfect work of the Author of the Universe. "All the rivers run into the sea, yet the sea is not full;" and the sea is not full, because the numerous great rivers and their millions of tributaries, ever flowing from age to age, convey to the ocean only as much water as the atmosphere carries back in vapor, and discharges upon the hills. The warmer the atmosphere, the greater its capacity to hold moisture. The heated, thirsty air of the tropics drinks up the water of the ocean, and bears it away to the colder regions, where, through condensation by cold, it becomes visible as a cloud; and as a huge sponge pressed by an invisible hand, the cloud, condensed still further by cold, sends down its water to the earth in rain.
The atmosphere's ability to hold and transport water is one of the best examples of the incredible work done by the Creator of the Universe. "All the rivers run into the sea, yet the sea is not full;" and it isn't full because the many large rivers and their millions of tributaries continuously flow into the ocean, delivering only as much water as the atmosphere returns in vapor and releases onto the land. The warmer the atmosphere, the more moisture it can hold. The hot, dry air of the tropics absorbs water from the ocean and carries it to cooler areas, where it cools down and forms clouds. Like a giant sponge pressed by an unseen force, the cloud, further condensed by the cold, releases its water to the earth as rain.
The heated air over our fields and streams, in Summer, is loaded with moisture as the sun declines. The earth has been cooled by radiation of its heat, and by constant evaporation through the day. By contact with the cooler soil, the air, borne by its thousand currents gently along its surface, is condensed, and yields its moisture to the thirsty earth again, in the form of dew.
The warm air over our fields and streams in summer is filled with moisture as the sun sets. The ground cools down as it loses heat and as evaporation happens throughout the day. When this air touches the cooler soil, it condenses and releases its moisture back to the dry ground in the form of dew.
At a Legislative Agricultural Meeting, held in Albany, New York, January 25th, 1855, "the great drought of 1854" being the subject, the secretary stated that "the experience of the past season has abundantly proved that thorough-drainage upon soils requiring it, has proved a very great relief to the farmer;" that "the crops upon such lands have been far better, generally, than those upon undrained lands, in the same locality;" and that, "in many instances, the increased crop has been sufficient to defray the expenses of the improvement in a single year."
At a Legislative Agricultural Meeting in Albany, New York, on January 25, 1855, with "the great drought of 1854" as the topic, the secretary mentioned that "the experience of the past season has clearly shown that thorough drainage for soils that need it has been a significant help to farmers;" that "the crops on such lands have generally been much better than those on undrained lands in the same area;" and that, "in many cases, the increased harvest has been enough to cover the costs of the improvements in just one year."
Mr. Joseph Harris, at the same meeting, said: "An underdrained soil will be found damper in dry weather, than an undrained one, and the thermometer shows a drained[285] soil warmer in cold weather, and cooler in hot weather, than one which is undrained."
Mr. Joseph Harris, at the same meeting, said: "A soil that's been drained will feel damper in dry weather compared to one that's not drained, and the thermometer shows that a drained[285] soil is warmer in cold weather and cooler in hot weather than an undrained one."
The secretary of the New York State Agricultural Society, in his Report for 1855, says: "The testimony of farmers, in different sections of the State, is almost unanimous, that drained lands have suffered far less from drought than undrained." Alleghany county reports that "drained lands have been less affected by the drought than undrained;" Chatauque county, that "the drained lands have stood the drought better than the undrained." The report from Clinton county says: "Drained lands have been less affected by the drought than undrained." Montgomery county reports: "We find that drained lands have a better crop in either wet or dry seasons than undrained."
The secretary of the New York State Agricultural Society, in his 1855 Report, states: "Farmers across different areas of the State almost unanimously agree that drained lands have been much less affected by drought compared to undrained lands." Alleghany County reports that "drained lands have been less impacted by the drought than undrained lands;" Chautauqua County notes that "the drained lands have fared better during the drought than the undrained." The report from Clinton County indicates: "Drained lands have been less affected by the drought than undrained lands." Montgomery County reports: "We find that drained lands yield better crops in both wet and dry seasons than undrained lands."
B. F. Nourse, of Orrington, Maine, states that, on his drained land, in that State, "during the drought of 1854, there was at all times sufficient dampness apparent on scraping the surface of the ground with his foot in passing, and a crop of beans was planted, grown and gathered therefrom, without as much rain as will usually fall in a shower of fifteen minutes' duration, while vegetation on the next field was parching for lack of moisture."
B. F. Nourse, from Orrington, Maine, says that on his drained land in that state, "during the drought of 1854, there was always enough moisture visible when scraping the surface of the ground with his foot while walking by, and a crop of beans was planted, grown, and harvested from it without as much rain as usually falls in a typical fifteen-minute shower, while the plants in the neighboring field were wilting from lack of water."
A committee of the New York Farmers' Club, which visited the farm of Prof. Mapes, in New Jersey, in the time of a severe drought, in 1855, reported that the Professor's fences were the boundaries of the drought, all the lands outside being affected by it, while his remained free from injury. This was attributed, both by the committee and by Prof. Mapes himself, to thorough-drainage and deep tillage with the subsoil plow.
A committee from the New York Farmers' Club visited Prof. Mapes' farm in New Jersey during a severe drought in 1855. They reported that the Professor's fences marked the edge of the drought, as all the land outside was affected while his farm stayed unharmed. Both the committee and Prof. Mapes attributed this success to thorough drainage and deep tilling with a subsoil plow.
Mr. Shedd, in the N. E. Farmer, says:
Mr. Shedd, in the N. E. Farmer, says:
"A simple illustration will show the effect which stagnant water, within a foot or two of the surface, has on the roots of plants.[286]
A simple illustration will show the effect that stagnant water, just a foot or two below the surface, has on plant roots.[286]
"Perhaps it will aid the reader, who doubts the benefit of thorough-draining in case of drought, to see why it is beneficial.
"Maybe it will help the reader, who questions the value of thorough drainage during a drought, to understand why it’s useful."
Fig. 95.
Fig. 95.
Fig. 96.
Fig. 96.

Section of land before it is drained.
Section of land before it's drained.
Section of land after it is drained.
Section of land after it's been drained.
"In the first figure, 1 represents the surface soil, through which evaporation takes place, using up the heat which might otherwise go to the roots of plants; 2, represents the water table, or surface of stagnant water below which roots seldom go; 3, water of evaporation; 4, water of capillary attraction; 5, water of drainage, or stagnant water.
"In the first figure, 1 represents the topsoil, which allows evaporation to occur, using up the heat that would otherwise reach the plant roots; 2 represents the water table, or the level of stagnant water that roots rarely penetrate; 3 is the water from evaporation; 4 is the water from capillary action; and 5 is the drainage water, or stagnant water."
"In the second figure, 1 represents the surface-soil warmed by the sun and Summer rains; 2, the water-table nearly four feet below the surface—roots of the wheat plant have been traced to a depth of more than four feet in a free mold; 3, water of capillary attraction; 4, water of drainage, or stagnant water."
"In the second figure, 1 shows the surface soil warmed by the sun and summer rains; 2 indicates the water table nearly four feet below the surface—roots of the wheat plant have been found at a depth of more than four feet in loose soil; 3 represents water due to capillary action; 4 indicates drainage water, or stagnant water."
CHAPTER XV[287]
TEMPERATURE AS AFFECTED BY DRAINAGE.
Drainage Warms the Soil in Spring.—Heat cannot go down in Wet Land.—Drainage causes greater Deposit of Dew in Summer.—Dew warms Plants in Night, Cools them in the Morning Sun.—Drainage varies Temperature by Lessening Evaporation.—What is Evaporation.—How it produces Cold.—Drained Land Freezes Deepest, but Thaws Soonest, and the Reasons.
Drainage Warms the Soil in Spring.—Heat can't penetrate Wet Land.—Drainage leads to more Dew accumulation in Summer.—Dew warms Plants at Night, cools them in the Morning Sun.—Drainage changes Temperature by Reducing Evaporation.—What is Evaporation.—How it creates Cold.—Drained Land freezes the deepest, but thaws the quickest, and the reasons.
Drainage raises the temperature of the soil, by allowing the rain to pass downwards. In the growing season, especially in the Spring, the rain is considerably warmer than the soil. If the soil be saturated with the cold snow-water, the water which falls must, of course, run away upon the surface. If the soil be drained, the rain-water finds ready admission into it, carrying and imparting to it a portion of its heat. The experiments of Count Rumford, showing that heat is not propagated downward in fluids, may be found at page 273. This is a principle too important to be overlooked, especially in New England, where we need every aid from Nature and Art, to contend successfully against the brevity of the planting season. Soil saturated with cold water, cannot be warmed by any amount of heat applied to the surface. Warm water is lighter than cold water, and stays at the surface. In boiling water in a kettle, we apply fire at the bottom, and no amount of heat at the surface of the vessel would produce the desired effect. So rapid is the passage of heat upward in water, that the hand may without injury be held upon the bottom of a kettle of boiling water one minute after it has been removed from the fire.[288]
Drainage increases the soil temperature by letting rainwater seep down. During the growing season, especially in spring, the rain is often much warmer than the soil. If the soil is saturated with cold snowmelt, any additional rain will simply run off the surface. However, when the soil is drained, rainwater easily enters it, bringing some of its warmth with it. Count Rumford's experiments show that heat doesn’t move downward through liquids, which you can find on page 273. This principle is crucial, particularly in New England, where we rely on every advantage from nature and technology to make the most of our short planting season. Soil that’s soaked with cold water cannot be warmed by any amount of heat applied to the surface. Warm water is lighter than cold water, so it remains at the top. When boiling water in a kettle, we apply heat from the bottom, and no amount of heat at the top would achieve the same results. Heat rises so quickly in water that you can hold your hand on the bottom of a kettle of boiling water for a full minute after it’s been taken off the fire.[288]
The following experiments and illustrations, from the Horticulturist of Nov. 1856, beautifully illustrate this point:
The following experiments and illustrations from the Horticulturist of November 1856 clearly show this point:
"RATIONALE OF DRAINING LAND EXPLAINED.
"The reason why drained land gains heat, and water-logged land is always cold, consists in the well-known fact that heat cannot be transmitted downwards through water. This may readily be seen by the following experiments:
"The reason drained land gets warm and waterlogged land always stays cold is due to the well-known fact that heat can't be transmitted downwards through water. This can easily be demonstrated with the following experiments:"

Fig. 97.
Fig. 97.
"Experiment No. 1.—A square box was made, of the form represented by the annexed diagram, eighteen inches deep, eleven inches wide at top, and six inches wide at bottom. It was filled with peat, saturated with water to c, forming to that depth (twelve and a half inches) a sort of artificial bog. The box was then filled with water to d. A thermometer a, was plunged, so that its bulb was within one inch and a half of the bottom. The temperature of the whole mass of peat and water was found to be 39½° Fahr. A gallon of boiling water was then added; it raised the surface of the water to e. In five minutes, the thermometer, a, rose to 44°, owing to the conduction of heat by the thermometer and its guard tube; at ten minutes from the introduction of the hot water, the thermometer, a, rose to 46°, and it subsequently rose no higher. Another thermometer, b, dipping under the surface of the water at e, was then introduced, and the following are the indications of the two thermometers at the respective intervals, reckoning from the time the hot water was supplied:
"Experiment No. 1.—A square box was constructed, as shown in the diagram, eighteen inches deep, eleven inches wide at the top, and six inches wide at the bottom. It was filled with peat, soaked in water to c, creating an artificial bog up to that depth (twelve and a half inches). The box was then filled with water to d. A thermometer a was inserted, so that its bulb was within one and a half inches of the bottom. The temperature of the peat and water combined measured 39½° Fahrenheit. A gallon of boiling water was then added, which raised the water surface to e. In five minutes, the thermometer a read 44°, due to the heat conduction from the thermometer and its guard tube; at ten minutes after adding the hot water, thermometer a reached 46°, and it did not increase further. Another thermometer, b, placed just below the water surface at e, was then added, and here are the readings from both thermometers at the specified intervals, counted from the moment the hot water was added:"
Thermometer b. | Thermometer a. | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | minutes | 150° | 46° | ||
1 | hour | 30 | " | 101° | 45° |
2 | hours | 30 | " | 80½° | 42° |
12 | " | 40 | " | 45° | 40° |
"The mean temperature of the external air to which the box was exposed[289] during the above period, was 42°, the maximum being 47°, and the minimum 37°.
"The average temperature of the outside air that the box was exposed to[289] during this time was 42°, with a maximum of 47° and a minimum of 37°.
"Experiment No. 2.—With the same arrangement as in the preceding case, a gallon of boiling water was introduced above the peat and water, when the thermometer a, was at 36°; in ten minutes it rose to 40°. The cock was then turned for the purpose of drainage, which was but slowly effected; and, at the end of twenty minutes, the thermometer a, indicated 40°; at twenty-five minutes, 42°, whilst the thermometer b, was 142°. At thirty minutes, the cock was withdrawn from the box, and more free egress of water being thus afforded, at thirty-five minutes the flow was no longer continuous, and the thermometer b, indicated 48°. The mass was drained, and permeable to a fresh supply of water. Accordingly, another gallon of boiling water was poured over it; and, in
"Experiment No. 2.—Using the same setup as before, we poured a gallon of boiling water over the peat and water when the thermometer a was at 36°. After ten minutes, it rose to 40°. We then opened the valve to drain the water, which happened slowly; after twenty minutes, the thermometer a still showed 40°, but by twenty-five minutes, it reached 42°, while thermometer b read 142°. After thirty minutes, we removed the valve from the box, allowing more water to escape. By thirty-five minutes, the flow was no longer steady, and thermometer b showed 48°. The mass was drained and ready for a new supply of water. So, we poured another gallon of boiling water over it; and, in "
3 | minutes, the thermometer a, rose to | 77°. |
5 | minutes, the thermometer a, fell to | 76½°. |
15 | minutes, the thermometer a, fell to | 70½°. |
20 | minutes, the thermometer a, remained at | 71°. |
1 hour 50 | minutes, the thermometer a, remained at | 70½°. |
"In these two experiments, the thermometer at the bottom of the box suddenly rose a few degrees immediately after the hot water was added; and it might be inferred that the heat was carried downwards by the water. But, in reality, the rise was owing to the action of the hot water on the thermometer, and not to its action upon the cold water. To prove this, the perpendicular thermometers were removed. The box was filled with peat and water to within three inches of the top, a horizontal thermometer, a f, having been previously secured through a hole made in the side of the box, by means of a tight-fitting cork, in which the naked stem of the thermometer was grooved. A gallon of boiling water was then added. The thermometer, a very delicate one, was not in the least affected by the boiling water in the top of the box.
"In these two experiments, the thermometer at the bottom of the box suddenly increased a few degrees right after the hot water was added; and one might think that the heat was carried downwards by the water. However, the rise was actually due to the hot water's effect on the thermometer, not its effect on the cold water. To demonstrate this, the vertical thermometers were removed. The box was filled with peat and water up to three inches from the top, with a horizontal thermometer, a f, already secured through a hole in the side of the box using a tight-fitting cork, which had a groove for the thermometer's naked stem. Then, a gallon of boiling water was added. The thermometer, which was very sensitive, was not in the least affected by the boiling water at the top of the box."
"In this experiment, the wooden box may be supposed to be a field; the peat and cold water represent the water-logged portion; rain falls on the surface, and becomes warmed by contact with the soil, and, thus heated, descends. But it is stopped by the cold water, and the heat will go no further. But, if the soil is drained, and not water-logged, the warm rain trickles through the crevices of the earth, carrying to the drain-level the high temperature it had gained on the surface, parts[290] with it to the soil as it passes down, and thus produces that bottom heat which is so essential to plants, although so few suspect its existence."
"In this experiment, the wooden box can be thought of as a field; the peat and cold water represent the waterlogged area; rain falls on the surface and gets warmed by being in contact with the soil, and then, heated, it flows down. But it gets stopped by the cold water, and the heat won't move any further. However, if the soil is drained and not waterlogged, the warm rain trickles through the cracks in the earth, taking the warmth it picked up on the surface down to the drain level, leaving some of it with the soil as it goes down, and this creates the bottom heat that is so crucial for plants, even though very few people realize it exists."
Water, although it will not conduct heat downwards, is a ready vehicle of cold from the surface towards the bottom. Water becomes heavier by cooling till it is reduced to about 39°, at which point it attains its greatest density, and has a tendency to go to the bottom until the whole mass is reduced to this low temperature. Thus, the circulation of water in the saturated soil, in some conditions of the temperature of the surface and subsoil, may have a chilling effect which could not be produced on drained soil.
Water, while it doesn’t transfer heat downwards, effectively carries cold from the surface to the bottom. Water gets heavier as it cools until it reaches about 39°F, at which point it becomes most dense and sinks to the bottom until the entire mass cools to this low temperature. Therefore, the circulation of water in saturated soil, under certain surface and subsoil temperature conditions, can create a chilling effect that wouldn’t occur in drained soil.
After water is reduced to about 39°, instead of obeying the common law of becoming heavier by cooling, it forms a remarkable exception to it, and becomes lighter until it freezes. Were it not for this admirable provision of Nature, all our ponds and rivers would, in the Winter, become solid ice from the surface to the bottom. Now as the surface water is chilled it goes to the bottom, and is replaced by warmer water, which rises, until the whole is reduced to the point of greatest density. Then the circulation ceases, and the water colder than 39° remains at the surface, is converted into ice which becomes still lighter, by crystallization, and floats upon the surface.
After water is cooled to about 39°F, instead of getting heavier like most substances do when they cool, it actually becomes lighter until it freezes. If it weren't for this amazing feature of Nature, all our ponds and rivers would turn into solid ice from the top down during Winter. As the surface water cools, it sinks to the bottom and is replaced by warmer water that rises, until everything reaches its maximum density. Once that happens, circulation stops, and the water colder than 39°F stays at the top, turns into ice which is even lighter due to crystallization, and then floats on the surface.
No experiments, showing the temperature of undrained soils at various depths, in the United States, have come to our knowledge. Mr. Gisborne says: "Many experiments have shown that, in retentive soils, the temperature, at two or three feet below the surface of the water-table, is, at no period of the year, higher than from 46° to 48° in agricultural Britain." Prof. Henry states in the Patent Office Report for 1857, that in the cellars of the observatory, at Paris, at the depth of sixty-seven and a half feet, in fifty years, the temperature has never varied a tenth of a degree from 53° 28', in all that period, Summer or Winter.[291]
No experiments showing the temperature of undrained soils at different depths in the United States have come to our knowledge. Mr. Gisborne says: "Many experiments have shown that in water-retaining soils, the temperature, at two or three feet below the surface of the water table, never exceeds 46° to 48° at any time of the year in agricultural Britain." Prof. Henry states in the Patent Office Report for 1857 that in the cellars of the observatory in Paris, at a depth of sixty-seven and a half feet, the temperature has remained constant to within a tenth of a degree at 53° 28' over the course of fifty years, regardless of the season.[291]
Mr. Parkes gives the results of a valuable series of experiments, in which he compared the temperature of drained and undrained portions of a bog. He found the temperature of the undrained portion to remain steadily at 46°, at all depths, from one to thirty feet; and at seven inches from the surface, the temperature remained at 47° during the experiments. During the same period, the temperature of the drained portion was 48¼° at two feet seven inches below the surface, and at seven inches, reached as high as 66° during a thunder-storm; while, on a mean of thirty-five observations, the temperature at the latter depth was 10° higher than at the same depth in the undrained portion of the bog.
Mr. Parkes presents the results of a valuable series of experiments in which he compared the temperatures of drained and undrained sections of a bog. He found that the temperature of the undrained section consistently stayed at 46° at all depths, from one to thirty feet; and at seven inches from the surface, the temperature remained at 47° throughout the experiments. Meanwhile, in the drained section, the temperature was 48¼° at two feet seven inches below the surface, and at seven inches, it spiked to 66° during a thunderstorm. On average, across thirty-five observations, the temperature at the latter depth was 10° higher than at the same depth in the undrained part of the bog.
We find in the "Agriculture of New York," the results of observations made at Albany and at Scott, in that State, in the year 1848, upon temperature at different depths. The condition of the soil is not described, but it is presumed that it was soil naturally drained in both cases. A few of the results may give the reader some idea of the range of underground temperature, as compared with that of the air.
We find in the "Agriculture of New York" the outcomes of observations conducted in Albany and Scott, in that state, in 1848, regarding temperature at different depths. The condition of the soil isn’t detailed, but it’s assumed that it was naturally drained in both instances. A few of the results might give the reader an idea of how underground temperatures compare to air temperatures.
Temperature | at | Albany | at two feet depth. | |
" | " | " | highest August 17 and 18, | 70° |
" | " | " | lowest February 28, | 32¾° |
" | " | " | Range, | 37¼° |
" | " | " | at four feet depth. | |
" | " | " | highest July 29, | 64½° |
" | " | " | lowest February 25, | 35½° |
" | " | " | Range, | 29° |
" | " | " | of the air, February 12, | -3° |
" | " | " | of the air, August, 3, P. M., | 90° |
" | " | " | Range, | 93° |
Temperature | at | Scott | at two feet depth. | |
" | " | " | highest, August 17 and 18, | 64° |
" | " | " | at four ft. depth, 17 days in Aug. | 60° |
" | " | " | of the air, at 3, P. M., highest | 90° |
[292]The temperature of falling rain, however, in the hot season, is many degrees cooler than the lower stratum of the atmosphere, and the surface of the earth upon which it falls. The effects of rain on drained soil, in the heat of Summer, are, then, two-fold; to cool the burning surface, which is, as we have seen, much warmer than the rain, and, at the same time, to warm the subsoil which is cooler than the rain itself, as it falls, and very much cooler than the rain-water, as it is warmed by its passage through the hot surface soil. These are beautiful provisions of Nature, by which the excesses of heat and cold are mitigated, and the temperature of the soil rendered more uniform, upon land adapted, by drainage, to her genial influences.
[292]The temperature of falling rain during the hot season is several degrees cooler than the lower levels of the atmosphere and the ground it falls on. The impact of rain on drained soil in the summer heat is two-fold: it cools the scorching surface, which, as we've noted, is much warmer than the rain, while also warming the subsoil that is cooler than the rain when it falls and significantly cooler than the rainwater as it heats up while moving through the hot surface soil. These are wonderful ways that Nature helps to balance extremes of heat and cold, making the soil temperature more consistent on land improved by drainage that benefits from her nurturing influence.
Upon the saturated and water-logged bog, as we have seen, the effect of the greatest heat is insufficient to raise the temperature of the subsoil a single degree, while the surface may be burned up and "shrivelled like a parched scroll."
On the soaked and waterlogged bog, as we've noted, even the hottest temperatures can't increase the subsoil's temperature by even a degree, while the surface may be scorched and "shrivelled like a parched scroll."
Drainage also raises the temperature of the soil by the admission of warm air. This proposition is closely connected with that just discussed. When the air is warmer than the soil, as it always is in the Spring-time, the water from the melting snow, or from rain, upon drained land, passes downward, and runs off by its gravitation. As "Nature abhors a vacuum," the little spaces in the soil, from which the water passes, must be filled with air, and this air can only be supplied from the surface, and, being warmer than the ground, tends to raise its temperature. No such effect can be produced in land not drained, because no water runs out of it, and there are, consequently, no such spaces opened for the warm air to enter.
Drainage also increases the soil temperature by allowing warm air in. This idea is closely linked to the previous one. When the air is warmer than the soil—as it is during spring—water from melting snow or rain on drained land moves downwards and flows away due to gravity. Since "Nature abhors a vacuum," the small spaces in the soil that the water leaves must be filled with air. This air can only come from the surface, and since it’s warmer than the ground, it raises the soil temperature. No such effect occurs in undrained land, because no water flows out, and therefore, there are no openings for the warm air to enter.
Drainage equalizes the temperature of the soil in Summer by increasing the deposit of dew. Of this we shall speak further, in a future chapter.[293]
Drainage balances the soil temperature during summer by boosting dew deposits. We'll discuss this further in a later chapter. [293]
Drainage raises the temperature in Spring by diminishing evaporation. Evaporation may be defined to be the conversion of liquid and solid bodies into elastic fluids, by the influence of caloric.
Drainage increases the temperature in Spring by reducing evaporation. Evaporation can be defined as the process of turning liquids and solids into gas due to heat.
By heating water over a fire, bubbles rise from the bottom of the vessel, adhere awhile to the sides of it, and then ascend to the surface, and burst and go off in visible vapor, or, in other words, by evaporation. Water is evaporated by the heat of the sun merely, and even without this heat, in the open air. It is evaporated at very low temperatures, when fully exposed to the air. Even ice evaporates in the open air. We often observe in Winter, that a thin covering of ice or snow disappears from our roads, although there has been no thawing weather.
By heating water over a fire, bubbles form at the bottom of the container, stick to the sides for a bit, then rise to the surface, popping and releasing visible steam, or in other words, through evaporation. Water can evaporate simply from the sun's heat, and even without that heat, in open air. It evaporates at very low temperatures when fully exposed. Even ice can evaporate in open air. We often notice in winter that a thin layer of ice or snow vanishes from our roads, even when there hasn't been any thawing weather.
In another chapter, we have considered the subject of "Evaporation and Filtration," and endeavored to give some general idea of the proportion of the rain which escapes by evaporation. We have seen, that evaporation proceeds much more rapidly from a surface of water, as a pond or river, than from a land surface, unless it be fully saturated, and that evaporation from the water exceeds the whole amount of rain, about as much as evaporation from the land falls short of the amount of rain. Thus, by this simple agency of evaporation, the vast quantities of water that are constantly flowing, in all the rivers of the earth, into the sea, are brought back again to the land, and so the great system of circulation is maintained throughout the ages.
In another chapter, we looked at "Evaporation and Filtration" and tried to give a general idea of how much rainwater is lost through evaporation. We found that evaporation happens much faster from surfaces of water, like ponds or rivers, than from land surfaces, unless the land is fully saturated. In fact, evaporation from water is greater than the total amount of rain that falls, just as evaporation from land is less than the total rainfall. Therefore, through the simple process of evaporation, the huge volumes of water that constantly flow from all the rivers on Earth into the sea are returned to the land, keeping the great system of circulation going throughout the ages.
As evaporation is greatest from a water-surface, so it is greater, other things being equal, according to the wetness of the surface of any given field. If the field be covered with water, it becomes a water-surface for the time, and the evaporation is like that from a pond. If, as is often the case, the water stands on it in spots, over half its[294] surface, and the rest is saturated, the evaporation is scarcely less, and has been said to be even more; while, if the surface be comparatively dry, the evaporation is very little.
As evaporation happens most from a water surface, it's also greater, assuming everything else is the same, based on how wet the surface of a particular field is. If the field is covered with water, it acts like a water surface for that time, and the evaporation is similar to that from a pond. If, as often happens, water collects in spots covering more than half its[294] surface, and the rest is saturated, the evaporation is hardly less and has even been said to be more; while if the surface is relatively dry, the evaporation is minimal.
But what harm does evaporation do? and what has all this scientific talk to do with drainage? These, my friend, are very practical questions, and just the ones which it is proposed to answer; but we must bear in mind that, as Nature conducts her grand affairs by systematic laws, the small portion of her domain which for a brief space of time we occupy, is not exempted from their operation. Some of these laws we may comprehend, and turn our knowledge of them to practical account. Of others, we may note the results, without apprehending the reasons of them; for it is true—
But what harm does evaporation cause? And what does all this scientific talk have to do with drainage? These, my friend, are very practical questions, and they are exactly the ones we aim to answer; but we must remember that, just as Nature runs her grand operations according to systematic laws, the small part of her domain we occupy for a short time is also subject to those laws. Some of these laws we can understand and use to our advantage. For others, we may observe the outcomes without fully grasping the reasons behind them; because it’s true—
"Than you can imagine in your philosophy."
Discussions of this kind may seem dry, though the subject itself be moisture. They belong, certainly, to the topic under consideration.
Discussions like these might seem dull, even though the subject is about moisture. They definitely relate to the topic at hand.
Evaporation does harm in the Spring-time, because it produces cold, just when we most want heat. How it produces cold, is not so readily explained. The fact may be made as evident as the existence of sin in the world, and, possibly, the reason of it may be as unsatisfactory.
Evaporation is harmful in the spring because it creates cold right when we need warmth the most. It's not easy to explain how it causes this cold. The reality is as clear as the existence of sin in the world, and perhaps the explanation for it is just as frustrating.
The books say, that heat always disappears when a solid body becomes a liquid; and so it is, that the air always remains cool while the snow and ice are melting in Spring. Again, it is said that heat always disappears, when a fluid becomes vapor. These are said to be laws or principles of nature, and are said to explain other phenomena. To a practical mind, it is perhaps just as satisfactory to say that evaporation produces cold, as to state the principle or law in the language of science.
The books say that heat always goes away when a solid turns into a liquid; that's why the air stays cool while the snow and ice are melting in spring. It's also said that heat disappears when a liquid turns into vapor. These are referred to as laws or principles of nature, which are meant to explain other phenomena. For a practical person, it might be just as satisfying to say that evaporation creates cold, rather than explaining the principle or law using scientific language.
That the fact is so, may be proved by many illustrations.[295] Stockhardt gives the following experiment, which is strikingly appropriate:
That the fact is true can be demonstrated by many examples.[295] Stockhardt presents the following experiment, which is particularly relevant:
"Fill a tube half full of water, and fasten securely round the bulb of it, a piece of cloth. Saturate the cloth with cold water, and then twirl the tube rapidly between the hands; presently the water in the tube will become sensibly colder, and the degree of cold may be accurately determined by the thermometer. Moisten the cloth with ether, a very volatile liquid, and twirl it again in the same manner as before; by which means, its contents, even in Summer, may be converted into ice."
"Fill a tube halfway with water and securely wrap a piece of cloth around the bulb. Soak the cloth in cold water, then quickly spin the tube between your hands; soon, the water inside will feel noticeably colder, and you can measure the temperature with a thermometer. Dampen the cloth with ether, a highly volatile liquid, and spin it again in the same way as before; this method can even turn the contents into ice during the summer."
It is very fortunate for us, that our Spring showers are not of ether; for then, instead of thawing, our land would freeze the harder! The heat of the blood is about 98°; yet man can endure a heat of many degrees more, and even labor under a Summer sun, which would raise the thermometer to 130°, without the temperature of his blood being materially affected, and it is because of perspiration, which absorbs the surplus heat, or, in other words, creates cold. It is said, too, that on the same principle, if two saucers, one filled with water warm enough to give off visible vapor, the other filled with water just from the well, are exposed in a sharp frosty morning, that filled with the warm water will exhibit ice soonest. Wine is cooled by evaporation, by wrapping the bottle in wet flannel, and exposing it to the air.
It’s really lucky for us that our spring showers aren’t made of ether; otherwise, instead of thawing, our land would freeze even more! The normal temperature of the blood is about 98°F, but a person can handle temperatures much higher than that, even working under a summer sun that would raise the thermometer to 130°F, without their blood temperature being significantly affected. This is due to perspiration, which absorbs excess heat, or in other words, creates a cooling effect. It’s also said that based on the same principle, if you have two saucers—one filled with water warm enough to produce visible steam and the other with cold well water—exposed on a frosty morning, the one with warm water will freeze first. Wine gets cooler through evaporation by wrapping the bottle in damp cloth and leaving it in the air.
If, after all this, any one doubts the fact that evaporation tends to produce cold, let him countenance his skepticism, by wetting his face with warm water, and going into the air in a Winter's day, and his faith will be greatly strengthened.
If, after all this, anyone doubts that evaporation tends to create cold, let them test their skepticism by wetting their face with warm water and stepping outside on a winter day, and their belief will be greatly reinforced.
We have, in the northern part of America, most water in the soil in the Spring of the year, just at the time when we most need a genial warmth to promote germination. If land is well drained, this water sinks downward, and runs away in the drains, instead of passing upward by evaporation.[296]
We have, in the northern part of America, the most moisture in the soil during the spring, just when we need a nice warmth to encourage germination. If the land is well-drained, this water seeps down and drains away instead of rising up and evaporating.[296]
Drainage, therefore, diminishes evaporation simply by removing the surplus snow and rain-water by filtration. It thus raises the temperature of the soil in that part of the season, when water is flowing from the drains; but, in the heat of Summer, the influence of the showers which refresh without saturating the soil, and are retained in it by attraction, is not lessened. As a good soil retains by attraction about one-half its weight of water that cannot be drained out, there can be no reasonable apprehension that the "gentle Summer showers" will be wasted by filtration, even upon thorough-drained land, while an avenue is open, by the drains, for the escape of drowning floods.
Drainage, therefore, reduces evaporation simply by filtering out the excess snow and rainwater. It raises the soil temperature during the time when water is flowing from the drains; however, in the heat of summer, the effect of the light showers that refresh without soaking the soil and are held in it by attraction isn’t diminished. Since good soil can hold onto about half its weight in water that won't drain away, there’s no real concern that the "gentle summer showers" will be wasted through filtration, even on well-drained land, while there’s a way for excess flooding to escape through the drains.
To show the general effect of drainage, in raising the temperature of wet lands in Summer, the following statement of Mr. Parkes is valuable. An elevation of the temperature of the subsoil ten degrees, will be seen to be very material, when we consider that Indian corn will not vegetate at all at 53°, but will start at once at 63°, 55° being its lowest point of germination:
To demonstrate how drainage affects the temperature of wet lands in summer, Mr. Parkes' statement is helpful. An increase of ten degrees in subsoil temperature is significant, especially considering that Indian corn won't grow at all at 53°, but will begin to sprout at 63°, with 55° being its minimum germination temperature.
"As regards the temperature of the water derived from drainage at different seasons of the year, I am unacquainted with any published facts. This is a subject of the highest import, as thermometric observations may be rendered demonstrative, in the truest manner, of the effect of drainage on the climate of the soil. At present, I must limit myself to saying, that I have never known the water of drainage issue from land drained at Midsummer, to depths of four and five feet, at a higher temperature than 52° or 53° Fahrenheit: whereas, in the following year and subsequent years, the water discharged from the same drains, at the same period, will issue at a temperature of 60°, and even so high as 63°, thus exhibiting the increase of heat conferred during the Summer months on the terrestrial climate by drainage. This is the all-important fact connected with the art and science of land-drainage."
"As for the temperature of water from drainage at different times of the year, I don’t know of any published data. This is a crucial topic, as temperature measurements can clearly show how drainage affects the soil’s climate. Right now, I can only say that I have never seen drainage water from land drained in midsummer, at depths of four and five feet, come out at a temperature higher than 52° or 53° Fahrenheit. However, the following year and in subsequent years, the water from the same drains, at the same time, can come out at temperatures of 60° and even as high as 63°, showing the increase in heat that the summer months add to the climate due to drainage. This is the essential point related to the practice and science of land drainage."
Besides affecting favorably the temperature of the particular field which is drained, the general effect of the drainage of wet lands upon the climate of the neighborhood has often been noticed. In the paper already cited, emanating from the Board of Health, we find the following[297] remarks, which are in accordance with all observation in districts where under-drainage has been generally practiced:
Besides positively impacting the temperature of the specific area being drained, the overall effect of draining wet lands on the local climate has often been observed. In the previously mentioned paper from the Board of Health, we find the following[297] remarks, which align with all observations in areas where under-drainage has been widely used:
"Every one must have remarked, on passing from a district with a retentive soil to one of an open porous nature—respectively characterized as cold and warm soils—that, often, whilst the air on the retentive soil is cold and raw, that on the drier soil is comparatively warm and genial. The same effect which is here caused naturally, may be produced artificially, by providing for the perfect escape of superfluous water by drainage, so as to leave less to cool down the air by evaporation. The reason of this difference is two-fold. In the first place, much heat is saved, as much heat being required for the vaporization of water, as would elevate the temperature of more than three million times its bulk of air one degree. It follows, therefore, that for every inch in depth of water carried off by drains, which must otherwise evaporate, as much heat is saved per acre as would elevate eleven thousand million cubic feet of air one degree in temperature. But that is not all. Not only is the temperature of the air reduced, but its dew point is raised, by water being evaporated which might be drained off; consequently, the want of drainage renders the air both colder and more liable to the formation of dew and mists, and its dampness affects comfort even more than its temperature. It is easy, then, to understand how local climate is so much affected by surplus moisture, and so remarkably improved by drainage. A farmer being asked the effect on temperature of some new drainage works; replied, that all he knew was, that before the drainage he could never go out at night without a great coat, and that now he could, so that he considered it made the difference of a great coat to him."
"Everyone must have noticed that when moving from an area with dense soil to one that is open and sandy—often referred to as cold and warm soils—the air in the dense soil can feel cold and damp, while the air in the drier soil is usually warmer and friendlier. The natural effect observed here can also be created artificially by ensuring proper drainage to allow excess water to escape, which reduces the cooling of the air through evaporation. There are two main reasons for this difference. First, a significant amount of heat is conserved because the heat required to turn water into vapor is enough to raise the temperature of over three million times its volume of air by one degree. Therefore, for every inch of water removed by drainage that would otherwise evaporate, enough heat is conserved per acre to raise the temperature of eleven thousand million cubic feet of air by one degree. But that’s not all. The air temperature is lowered, and its dew point is raised due to the evaporation of water that could have been drained. As a result, the lack of drainage makes the air both colder and more prone to dew and mist formation, and the dampness affects comfort even more than the air temperature. It’s easy to see how excess moisture significantly influences the local climate and how drainage greatly improves it. When a farmer was asked about the impact on temperature from some new drainage work, he replied that before the drainage, he could never go out at night without a heavy coat, but now he can, so he felt it made a coat’s worth of difference for him."
Drainage increases the coldness of the subsoil in Winter. Whether this is a gain or loss to the agriculturist, is not for us to determine. The object of our labor is, to lay the whole subject fairly before the reader, and not to extol drainage as the grand panacea of bad husbandry.
Drainage makes the subsoil colder in winter. Whether this is beneficial or harmful for farmers is not for us to decide. Our goal is to present the entire topic fairly to the reader and not to promote drainage as the ultimate solution to poor farming practices.
Although water will not conduct heat downwards, yet it doubtless prevents the deep freezing of the ground. It has already been seen, that the temperature of the earth, a few feet below the surface, is above the freezing point, at all times. The fact that the ground does not freeze, usually, even in New England, where every Winter brings[298] weather below Zero, more than four or five feet deep, in the most exposed situations, shows conclusively the comparatively even temperature of the subsoil. The water which flows underground is of this subsoil temperature, and, in Winter, warms the ground through which it flows. In land thoroughly drained, this warm water cannot rise above the drains, and so cannot defend the soil from frost.
Although water doesn't conduct heat downward, it definitely prevents the ground from freezing too deeply. It's been established that the temperature of the earth, just a few feet below the surface, stays above freezing at all times. The fact that the ground usually doesn't freeze, even in New England where every winter brings[298] weather below zero, more than four or five feet deep in the most exposed areas, clearly indicates the relatively consistent temperature of the subsoil. The water that flows underground is at this subsoil temperature and, in winter, warms the ground it passes through. In land that's completely drained, this warm water can't rise above the drainage systems, so it can't protect the soil from frost.
Drained land will, undoubtedly, freeze deeper than undrained land, and this is a fact to be impressed upon all who lay tiles in a cold climate. It is a strong argument for deep drainage. "Drain deep, or drain not," is a convenient paraphrase of a familiar quotation. How often do we hear it said, "My meadow never freezes more than a foot deep; there will never be any trouble from frost in that place, if the tiles are no more than two feet deep." Be assured, brother farmer, that the frost will follow the water-table downward, and, unless the warm water move in sufficient quantity through your pipes to protect them in Winter, your work may be ruined by frost. So long as much water is flowing in pipes, especially if it be from deep springs, they will be safe from frost, even at a slight depth.
Drained land will definitely freeze deeper than undrained land, and this is a point that everyone who installs tiles in a cold climate should take to heart. It strongly supports the case for deep drainage. "Drain deep, or don't drain at all," is a handy way to summarize a well-known saying. How often do we hear someone claim, "My meadow never freezes more than a foot deep; there won't be any frost issues there if the tiles are only two feet deep." Be assured, fellow farmer, that frost will follow the water level down, and unless warm water flows in sufficient amounts through your pipes to protect them in winter, your work could be ruined by frost. As long as plenty of water is moving through the pipes, especially if it comes from deep springs, they will be safe from frost, even at a shallow depth.
Dr. Madden says, that it has been proved that one great source of health and vigor in vegetation, is the great difference which exists between the temperature of Summer and Winter, which, he says, in dry soils, often amounts to between 30° and 40°; while, in very wet soils, it seldom exceeds 10°. This idea may have value in a mild climate; but, probably, in New England, we get cold enough for our good, without artificial aids. In another view, drainage is known to be essential, even in Winter.
Dr. Madden says that it has been proven that a major source of health and vitality in plants is the significant difference in temperature between summer and winter, which, he notes, in dry soils often reaches between 30° and 40°; whereas, in very wet soils, it rarely exceeds 10°. This concept may be useful in a mild climate; however, in New England, we likely experience enough cold on our own, without needing extra help. Additionally, proper drainage is known to be crucial, even in winter.
Fruit trees are almost as surely destroyed by standing with their feet in cold water all Winter, as any of us "unfeathered bipeds" would be; while the solid freezing[299] of the earth around their roots does not harm them. Perhaps the same is true of most other vegetation.
Fruit trees are nearly guaranteed to be ruined if they spend all winter with their roots in cold water, much like how any of us "barefoot humans" would be affected; meanwhile, the solid freeze[299] of the ground around their roots doesn't harm them. Maybe the same applies to most other plants.
The deep freezing of the ground is often mentioned as a mode of pulverization—as a sort of natural subsoiling thrown in by a kind Providence, by way of compensation for some of the evils of a cold climate. Most of those, however, who have wielded the pick-axe in laying four-foot drains, in clay or hard-pan, will have doubts whether Jack Frost, though he can pull up our fence-posts, and throw out our Winter grain, has much softened the earth two feet below its surface.
The deep freezing of the ground is often talked about as a way to break up soil—like a natural tilling method provided by a kind fate, compensating for some of the downsides of a cold climate. However, most people who have used a pickaxe to dig four-foot drains in clay or hard ground might wonder if Jack Frost, while he can lift our fence posts and push up our winter crops, has really done much to soften the earth just two feet below the surface.
That the frost comes out of drained land earlier than undrained, in Spring, we are satisfied, both by personal observation, and by the statements of the few individuals who have practiced thorough-drainage in our cold climate.
That frost leaves drained land earlier than undrained land in spring, we're convinced, both from our own observations and from what a few people who have done thorough drainage in our cold climate have reported.
B. F. Nourse, Esq., whose valuable statement will be found in a later chapter, says, that, in 1858, the frost came out a week, at least, earlier from his drained land, in Maine, than from contiguous undrained land; and that, usually, the drained land is in condition to be worked as soon as the frost is out, quite two weeks earlier than any other land in the vicinity. Our observations on our own land, fully corroborate the opinion of Mr. Nourse.
B. F. Nourse, Esq., whose valuable statement will be found in a later chapter, says that in 1858, the frost thawed at least a week earlier on his drained land in Maine compared to the nearby undrained land. He also mentions that typically, the drained land is ready to be worked as soon as the frost is gone, nearly two weeks earlier than any other land in the area. Our observations on our own land fully support Mr. Nourse's opinion.
The reasons why the frost should come out of drained land soonest, are, that land that is dry does not freeze so solid as land that is wet, and so spaces are left for the permeation of warm air. Again, ice, like water, is almost a nonconductor of heat, and earth saturated with water and frozen, is like unto it, so that neither the warmth of the subsoil or surface-soil can be readily imparted to it. Dry earth, on the other hand, although frozen, is still a good conductor, and readily dissolves at the first warm breath of Spring above, or the pulsations of the great heart of Nature beneath.
The reasons why frost should come out of drained land as quickly as possible are that dry land doesn't freeze as solidly as wet land, leaving gaps for warm air to get in. Also, ice, like water, is almost a poor conductor of heat, and land that's soaked with water and frozen behaves similarly, meaning that neither the warmth from beneath the surface nor from the top layer can easily reach it. In contrast, dry land, even when frozen, is a good conductor and melts quickly with the first signs of warmth in Spring or the natural energy from the earth below.
CHAPTER XVI.[300]
POWER OF SOILS TO ABSORB AND RETAIN MOISTURE.
Why does not Drainage make the Land too Dry?—Adhesive Attraction.—The Finest Soils exert most Attraction.—How much Water different Soils hold by Attraction.—Capillary Attraction, Illustrated.—Power to Imbibe Moisture from the Air.—Weight Absorbed by 1,000 lbs. in 12 Hours.—Dew, Cause of.—Dew Point.—Cause of Frost.—Why Covering Plants Protects from Frost.—Dew Imparts Warmth.—Idea that the Moon Promotes Putrefaction.—Quantity of Dew.
Why doesn’t drainage make the land too dry?—Adhesive Attraction.—The finest soils exert the most attraction.—How much water different soils hold through attraction.—Capillary attraction, illustrated.—Ability to absorb moisture from the air.—Weight absorbed by 1,000 lbs. in 12 hours.—Cause of dew.—Dew point.—Cause of frost.—Why covering plants protects them from frost.—Dew provides warmth.—The idea that the moon promotes decay.—Amount of dew.
The first and most natural objection made, by those not practically familiar with drainage operations, to the whole system is, that the drains will draw out so much of the water from the soil, as to leave it too dry for the crops.
The first and most common concern raised by those who aren't actually familiar with drainage operations is that the drains will remove too much water from the soil, making it too dry for the crops.
If a cask be filled with round stones, or with musket balls, or with large shot, and with water to the surface, and then an opening be made at the bottom of the cask, all the water, except a thin film adhering to the surface of the vessel and its contents, will immediately run out.
If a barrel is filled with round stones, or musket balls, or large shot, and water is added to the top, then an opening is made at the bottom of the barrel, all the water, except for a thin layer sticking to the inside of the barrel and its contents, will quickly drain out.
If now, the same cask be filled with the dried soil of any cultivated field, and this soil be saturated with water, a part only of the water can be drawn out at the bottom. The soil in the cask will remain moist, retaining more or less of the water, according to the character of the soil.
If the same cask is filled with dried soil from any cultivated field and this soil is soaked with water, only some of the water can be drained out from the bottom. The soil in the cask will stay moist, holding onto more or less of the water depending on the type of soil.
Why does not the water all run out of the soil, and leave it dry? An answer may be found in the books, which is, in reality, but a re-statement of the fact, by reference to a principle of nature, by no means intelligible to finite minds, called attraction. If two substances are[301] placed in close contact with each other, they cannot be separated without a certain amount of force.
Why doesn’t all the water run out of the soil and leave it dry? One answer can be found in the literature, which is really just a rephrasing of the fact, referencing a principle of nature, that is not easily understood by limited minds, called attraction. If two substances are[301] placed in close contact with each other, they can’t be separated without a certain amount of force.
"If we wet the surfaces of two pieces of glass, and place them in contact, we shall find that they adhere to each other, and that, independently of the effect of the pressure of the air, they oppose considerable resistance to any attempt to separate them. Again, if we bring any substance, as the blade of a knife, in contact with water, the water adheres to the blade in a thin film, and remains, by what is termed adhesive attraction. This property resides in the surface of bodies, and is in proportion to the extent of its surface.
"If we moisten the surfaces of two pieces of glass and press them together, we'll see that they stick to each other and, regardless of the air pressure, they resist any effort to pull them apart. Similarly, if we touch any object, like a knife blade, to water, the water clings to the blade in a thin layer, thanks to what's known as adhesive attraction. This property is found on the surfaces of materials and depends on the size of the surface area."
"Soils possess this property, in common with all other bodies, and possess it, in a greater or less degree, according to the aggregate surface which the particles of a given bulk present. Thus, clay may, by means of kneading, be made to contain so large a quantity of water, as that, at last, it may almost be supposed to be divided into infinitesimally thin layers, having each a film of water adhering to it on either side. Such soils, again, as sand or chalk, the particles of which are coarser exert a less degree of adhesive attraction for water."—Cyc. of Ag., 695.
"Soils have this characteristic, just like all other materials, and they exhibit it to varying extents based on the total surface area of the particles in a given mass. For example, clay can be kneaded to hold a significant amount of water, to the point where it can be seen as being made up of extremely thin layers, each with a film of water sticking to both sides. In contrast, soils like sand or chalk, which consist of larger particles, have a weaker ability to attract water."—Cyc. of Ag., 695.
Professor Schübler, of Tubingen, gives the results of experiments upon this point. By dropping water upon dried soils of different kinds, until it began to drop from the bottom, he found that 100 lbs. of soil held by attraction, as follows:
Professor Schübler, from Tübingen, shares the results of experiments on this topic. By pouring water onto dried soils of various types until it started to drip from the bottom, he discovered that 100 lbs. of soil retained water due to attraction, as follows:
Sand | 25 | lbs. of water. |
Loamy Soil | 40 | " |
Clay Loam | 50 | " |
Pure Clay | 70 | " |
Mr. Shedd, of Boston, gives the result of a recent experiment of his own on this point. He writes thus:
Mr. Shedd from Boston shares the results of a recent experiment he conducted on this topic. He writes:
"I have made an experiment with a soil of ordinary tenacity, to ascertain how much water it would hold in suspension, with the following result: One cubic foot of earth held 0.4826434 cubic feet of water; three feet of dry soil of that character will receive 1.44793 ft. vertical depth of water before any drains off, or seventeen and three-quarter inches, equal to nearly six month's rain-fall. One cubic foot of earth held 3.53713 gallons of water, or if drains are three feet deep, one square foot of surface would receive 10.61 gallons of water, before[302] saturation. Other soils would sustain a greater or less quantity, according to their character."
"I conducted an experiment with a soil of regular strength to find out how much water it could hold in suspension, and here are the results: One cubic foot of soil held 0.4826434 cubic feet of water; three feet of dry soil of that type can absorb 1.44793 feet of vertical water before any drains away, which is about seventeen and three-quarter inches, nearly equivalent to six months of rainfall. One cubic foot of soil held 3.53713 gallons of water, or, if the drains are three feet deep, one square foot of surface can take in 10.61 gallons of water before[302] reaching saturation. Other types of soil would hold a different amount based on their characteristics."
Besides this power of retaining water, when brought into contact with it, the soil has, in common with other porous bodies, the power of drawing up moisture, or of absorbing it, independent of gravitation, or of the weight of the water which aids to carry it down into the soil. This power is called capillary attraction, from the hair-like tubes used in early experiments. If very minute tubes, open at both ends, are placed upright, partly immersed in a vessel of water, the water rises in the tubes perceptibly higher than its general surface in the vessel. A sponge, from which water has been pressed out, held over a basin of water, so that its lower part touches the surface, draws up the water till it is saturated. A common flower-pot, with a perforated bottom, and filled with dry earth, placed in a saucer of water, best illustrates this point. The water rises at once to a common level in the pot and outside. This represents the water-table in the soil of our fields. But, from this level, water will continue to rise in the earth in the pot, till it is moistened to the surface, and this, too, is by capillary attraction.
Besides being able to hold water, when the soil comes into contact with it, it shares with other porous materials the ability to draw up moisture or absorb it, regardless of gravity or the weight of the water helping to push it into the soil. This ability is known as capillary attraction, based on the hair-like tubes used in early experiments. If very small tubes, open at both ends, are placed upright and partially submerged in a container of water, the water will rise in the tubes noticeably higher than the general surface level in the container. A sponge that has had water pressed out of it, when held over a basin of water so that its lower part touches the surface, will draw up the water until it is saturated. A typical flower pot with a hole in the bottom, filled with dry soil, placed in a dish of water, illustrates this well. The water quickly rises to the same level in both the pot and the dish. This mimics the water table in the soil of our fields. However, from this level, water will keep rising in the soil of the pot until it is moist all the way to the surface, also due to capillary attraction.
The tendency of water to ascend, however, is not the same in all soils. In coarse gravelly soils, the principle may not operate perfectly, because the interstices are too large, the weight of the water overcoming the power of attraction, as in the cask of stones or shot. In very fine clay, on the other hand, although it be absorptive and retentive of water, yet the particles are so fine, and the spaces between them so small, that this attraction, though sure, would be slow in operation. A loamy, light, well pulverized soil, again, would perhaps furnish the best medium for the diffusion of water in this way.
The way water rises isn't the same in all types of soil. In coarse, gravelly soils, this principle may not work perfectly because the gaps are too big, and the weight of the water beats the force of attraction, like in a container of stones or shot. On the other hand, very fine clay, while it absorbs and holds water well, has such tiny particles and small spaces between them that this attraction, although certain, would act slowly. A light, well-tilled loamy soil might actually be the best option for the movement of water in this manner.
It is impossible to set limits to so uncertain a power as this of capillary attraction. We see that in minute glass[303] tubes, it has power to raise water a small fraction of an inch only. We see that, in the sponge or flower-pot, it has power to raise water many inches; and we know that, in the soil, moisture is thus attracted upwards several feet. By observing a saturated sponge in a saucer, we shall see that, although moist at the top, it holds more and more water to the bottom. So, in the saturated earth in a flower-pot, the earth, merely moist at the surface, is wet mud just above the water-table. So, in drained land, the capillary force which retained the water in the soil to the height of a few inches, is no longer able to sustain it, when the height is increased to feet, and a portion descends into the drain, leaving the surface comparatively dry.
It’s impossible to put limits on such an unpredictable force as capillary attraction. We see that in tiny glass tubes, it can raise water just a tiny bit. However, in a sponge or a flower pot, it can raise water several inches, and we know that in the soil, moisture is pulled upwards several feet. If we look at a saturated sponge in a saucer, we can see that, even though it's wet at the top, it holds more and more water at the bottom. Similarly, in the saturated soil of a flower pot, the soil might just be moist at the surface but is wet mud just above the water table. In drained land, the capillary force that kept water in the soil up to a few inches is no longer able to support it when the height increases to feet, causing some of it to flow into the drain and leaving the surface relatively dry.
Thus, it would seem, that draining may modify the force of capillary attraction, while it cannot affect that of adhesive attraction. It may drain off surplus water, but, unaided, can never render any arable land too dry. If, however, the surplus water be speedily taken off by drainage, and the capillary attraction be greatly impaired, so that little water is drawn upwards by its force, will not the soil soon become parched by the heat of the sun, or, in other words, by evaporation?
Thus, it seems that drainage can change the strength of capillary attraction, but it doesn’t impact adhesive attraction. It can remove excess water, but on its own, it can never make farmland too dry. However, if the excess water is quickly removed through drainage, and capillary attraction is significantly reduced so that only a small amount of water is pulled up, wouldn’t the soil quickly dry out from the sun's heat, or in other words, from evaporation?
Without stopping in this place, to speak of evaporation, we may answer, that, in our burning Summer heat, the earth would be burnt up too dry for any vegetation, were it not for a beneficent arrangement of Providence, which counteracts the effect of the sun's rays, and of which we will now make mention.
Without pausing here to discuss evaporation, we can say that in our scorching summer heat, the earth would become too dry for any plants to survive if it weren’t for a helpful arrangement of Providence that counteracts the sun's rays, which we will now mention.
Power to imbibe moisture from the air.—We have spoken, in another place, of the absorption, by drained land, of fertilizing substances from the atmosphere. Dry soil has, too, a wonderful power of deriving moisture from the same source.
Ability to absorb moisture from the air.—We have discussed elsewhere the ability of drained land to take in fertilizing substances from the atmosphere. Dry soil also has an incredible capacity to extract moisture from the same source.
"When a portion of soil," says Johnston, "is dried carefully over boiling water, or in an oven, and is then spread out upon a sheet of[304] paper in the open air, it will gradually drink in watery vapor from the atmosphere, and will thus increase in weight.
"When a section of soil," says Johnston, "is dried carefully over boiling water, or in an oven, and then spread out on a sheet of [304] paper in the open air, it will slowly absorb water vapor from the atmosphere, and will therefore gain weight."
"In hot climates and in dry seasons, this property is of great importance, restoring as it does, to the thirsty soil, and bringing within the reach of plants, a portion of the moisture, which, during the day, they had so copiously exhaled."
"In hot climates and dry seasons, this quality is really important. It restores moisture to the thirsty soil and makes some of the moisture available to plants that they had lost through transpiration during the day."
Different soils possess this power in unequal degrees. During a night of 12 hours, and when the air is moist, according to Schübler, 1000 lbs. of perfectly dry
Different soils have this ability in varying amounts. Over the course of a 12-hour night, when the air is humid, Schübler states that 1000 lbs. of perfectly dry
Quartz sand will gain | 0 | lbs. |
Calcareous sand | 2 | " |
Loamy soil | 21 | " |
Clay loam | 25 | " |
Pure agricultural clay | 27 | " |
Sir Humphrey Davy found, that the power of attraction for water, generally proved an index to the agricultural value of soils. It is, however, but one means of judging of their value. Peaty soils and strong clays are very absorbent of water, although not always the best for cultivation.
Sir Humphrey Davy discovered that how much water a soil can attract often indicates its agricultural value. However, it's just one way to assess their worth. Peaty soils and heavy clays absorb a lot of water, but they aren't always the best for farming.
Sir H. Davy gives the following results of his experiments. When made perfectly dry, 1000 lbs. of a
Sir H. Davy provides the following outcomes from his experiments. When made completely dry, 1000 lbs. of a
Very fertile soil from East Lothian, gained in an hour | 18 | lbs. |
Very fertile soil from Somersetshire | 16 | " |
Soil, worth 45s., (rent) from Essex | 13 | " |
Sandy soil, worth 28s., from Essex | 11 | " |
Coarse sand, worth 15s. | 8 | " |
Soil of Bagshot Heath | 3 | " |
"This sort of attraction, however," suggests a writer in the Cyclopedia of Agriculture, "it may be believed, depends upon other causes besides the attraction of adhesion. The power of attraction, which certain substances exhibit for the vapor of water, is more akin to the force which enables certain porous bodies to absorb and retain many times their volume of the different gases; as charcoal, of ammonia, of which it is said to absorb ninety times its own bulk."
"This kind of attraction, however," suggests a writer in the Cyclopedia of Agriculture, "is likely influenced by other factors beyond just adhesion. The attraction that certain substances have for the vapor of water is more similar to the force that allows some porous materials to absorb and hold many times their own volume of different gases; for instance, charcoal can absorb ammonia up to ninety times its own size."
Here again, we find in the soil, an inexplicable but beneficent[305] power, by which it supplies itself with moisture when it most needs it.
Here again, we see in the soil an unexplainable but helpful[305] power that provides moisture when it needs it most.
Warm air is capable of holding more vapor than cooler air, and the very heat of Summer supplies it with moisture by evaporation from land and water. As the air is cooled, at nightfall, it must somewhere deposit the water, which the hand of the Unseen presses out of it by condensation.
Warm air can hold more moisture than cool air, and the heat of summer provides that moisture through evaporation from land and water. As the air cools at night, it has to release the water, which gets squeezed out by the forces of nature through condensation.
The sun-dried surface of fertile, well drained soil, is in precisely the condition best adapted to receive the refreshing draught, and convey it to the thirsting plants.
The sun-dried surface of rich, well-drained soil is exactly the right condition to soak up the refreshing moisture and send it to the thirsty plants.
We may form some estimate of the vast amount absorbed by an acre of land in a dry season, by considering that the clay loam, in the above statement, absorbed in 12 hours a fortieth part of its own weight.
We can get an idea of the huge amount of water taken up by an acre of land during a dry season by noting that the clay loam mentioned earlier absorbed a fortieth of its own weight in just 12 hours.
OF DEW.
Dew is one of the most ordinary forms in which moisture is deposited in and upon the soil, in its natural conditions. The absorbent power of artificially-dried soils, as has been seen, seems to depend much upon their chemical constitution; and that topic has been considered, without special reference to the comparative temperature of the soil and atmosphere. The soil, as we have seen, absorbs moisture from the air, when both are of the same temperature, the amount absorbed depending also upon the physical condition of the soil, and upon the comparative moisture of the soil and atmosphere.
Dew is one of the most common ways that moisture settles in and on the soil in its natural state. The ability of artificially-dried soils to absorb moisture, as we've noted, seems to rely heavily on their chemical makeup; this topic has been discussed without specific focus on the temperature differences between the soil and the atmosphere. As we’ve observed, the soil absorbs moisture from the air when both are at the same temperature, with the quantity absorbed also depending on the physical state of the soil and the moisture levels in both the soil and atmosphere.
The deposition of dew results from a different law. All bodies throw off, at all times, heat, by radiation, as it is termed. In the day-time, the sun's rays warm the earth, and the air is heated by it, and that nearest the surface is heated most. Evaporation is constantly going on from the earth and water, and loads the air with vapor, and the warmer the air, the more vapor it will hold.
The formation of dew happens due to a different process. All objects continuously release heat through radiation. During the day, the sun warms the earth, and the air gets heated too, with the layer closest to the surface heating the most. Evaporation is always occurring from the ground and water, adding moisture to the air, and warmer air can hold more moisture.
When the sun goes down, the earth still continues to[306] throw off heat by radiation, and soon becomes cooler than the air, unless the same amount of heat be returned, by radiation from other surfaces. Becoming cooler than the air, the soil or plants cool the air which comes in contact with them; and thus cooled to a certain point, the air cannot hold all the vapor which it absorbed while warmer, and part of it is deposited upon the soil, plant, or other cool surface. This is dew; and the temperature at which the air is saturated with vapor, is called the dew-point. If saturated at a given temperature with vapor, the air, when cooled below this point, must part with a portion of the vapor, in some way; in the form of rain or mist, if in the air; in the form of dew, if on the surface of the earth.
When the sun sets, the earth still emits heat through radiation and soon becomes cooler than the air unless the same amount of heat is returned from other surfaces through radiation. As it gets cooler than the air, the soil or plants cool the air that comes into contact with them; and once the air is cooled to a certain point, it can't hold all the moisture it absorbed when it was warmer, causing some of it to condense on the soil, plants, or other cool surfaces. This is what we call dew; the temperature at which the air is saturated with moisture is known as the dew point. If the air is saturated with moisture at a certain temperature, when it cools below this point, it must release some of the moisture, either as rain or mist if it's in the air, or as dew if it's on the ground.
If, however, other surfaces, at night, radiate as much heat back to the earth as it throws off, the surface of the earth is not thus cooled, and there is no dew. Clouds radiate heat to the earth, and, therefore, there is less dew in cloudy than in clear nights. If the temperature of the earth sinks below the freezing-point, the aqueous vapor is frozen, and is then called frost.
If, however, other surfaces radiate as much heat back to the earth at night as the earth emits, then the surface of the earth doesn't cool down, and there's no dew. Clouds radiate heat to the earth, which is why there’s less dew on cloudy nights compared to clear ones. If the temperature of the earth drops below freezing, the water vapor freezes and is then called frost.
To radiate back a portion of the heat thus thrown off by the soil and plants, gardeners cover their tender plants and vines with mats or boards, or even with thin cloth, and thus protect them from frost. If the covering touch the plants, they are often frozen, the heat being conducted off, by contact, to the covering, and thence radiated. Dew then is an effect, but not a cause, of cold. It imparts warmth, because it can be deposited only on objects cooler than itself.
To reflect some of the heat released by the soil and plants, gardeners cover their delicate plants and vines with mats, boards, or even thin fabric to protect them from frost. If the covering touches the plants, they can often freeze because the heat is conducted away through contact to the covering, which then radiates it. Dew is a result, not a cause, of cold. It provides warmth because it can only form on objects that are cooler than itself.
It has been supposed by many that the light of the moon promotes putrefaction. Pliny and Plutarch both affirm this to be true. Dew, by supplying moisture in the warm season, aids this process of decay. We have seen that dew is most abundant in clear nights; and although all clear nights are not moonlight nights, yet all moonlight[307] nights are clear nights; and this, perhaps, furnishes sufficient grounds for this belief, as to the influence of the moon.
Many people believe that the light of the moon encourages decay. Both Pliny and Plutarch confirm this idea. Dew, by providing moisture during the warm season, helps this decay process. We’ve observed that dew is most plentiful on clear nights; and while not every clear night has moonlight, every moonlit night is a clear night. This might be enough to support the belief in the moon's influence.
The quantity of dew deposited is not easily measured. It has, however, been estimated by Dr. Dalton, to amount, in England, to five inches of water in a year, or 500 tons to the acre, equal to about one quarter of our rain-fall during the six summer months!
The amount of dew that collects is not easy to measure. However, Dr. Dalton has estimated that in England, it comes to about five inches of water per year, or 500 tons per acre, which is roughly a quarter of our rainfall during the six summer months!
Deep and well-pulverized soils attract much more moisture, in every form, from the atmosphere, than shallow and compact soils. They, in fact, expose a much larger surface to the air. This is the reason why stirring the ground, even in the Summer drought, refreshes our fields of Indian corn.
Deep and finely crushed soils draw in much more moisture, in every form, from the atmosphere compared to shallow and compact soils. They actually expose a much larger surface area to the air. This is why tilling the ground, even during the summer drought, revitalizes our fields of corn.
CHAPTER XVII[308]
INJURY OF LAND BY DRAINAGE.
Most Land cannot be Over-drained.—Nature a Deep drainer.—Over-draining of Peaty Soils.—Lincolnshire Fens; Visit to them in 1857.—56 Bushels of Wheat to the Acre.—Wet Meadows subside by Drainage.—Conclusions.
Most land can't be over-drained. Nature is a deep drainer. Over-draining of peaty soils. Lincolnshire Fens; visit to them in 1857. 56 bushels of wheat per acre. Wet meadows decrease with drainage. Conclusions.
Is there no danger of draining land too much? May not land be over-drained? These are questions often and very naturally asked, and which deserve careful consideration. The general answer would be that there is no danger to be apprehended from over-draining; that no water will run out of land that would be of advantage to our cultivated crops by being retained. In other words, soils generally hold, by capillary attraction, all the moisture that is of any advantage to the crops cultivated on them; and the water of drainage would, if retained for want of outlets, be stagnant, and produce more evil than good.
Is there no risk of draining land too much? Can land be over-drained? These are questions that are frequently asked and deserve careful thought. The general answer would be that there's no risk from over-draining; that no water will leave the land that would benefit our crops by being kept. In other words, soils generally hold, through capillary attraction, all the moisture that is useful to the crops grown on them; and the water from drainage would, if kept due to lack of outlets, become stagnant and cause more problems than benefits.
We say this is generally true; but there are said to be exceptional cases, which it is proposed to consider. If we bear in mind the condition of most soils in Summer, we shall see that this apprehension of over-draining is groundless. The fear is, that crops will suffer in time of drought, if thoroughly drained. Now, we know that, in almost all New England, the water-table is many feet below the surface. Our wells indicate pretty accurately where the water-table is, and drains, unless cut as low as the surface[309] of the water in the wells, would not run a drop of water in Summer.
We generally agree on this; however, there are said to be some exceptional cases that we should discuss. If we consider the state of most soils in the summer, we’ll realize that the worry about over-draining is unfounded. The concern is that crops will suffer during droughts if they are fully drained. However, we know that in almost all of New England, the water table is many feet below the surface. Our wells give a pretty accurate indication of where the water table is, and drains, unless they are positioned as low as the surface[309] of the water in the wells, would not yield any water in the summer.
Our farmers dig their wells twenty, and even fifty, feet deep, and expect that, every Summer, the water will sink to nearly that depth; but they have no apprehension that their crops will become dry, because the water is not kept up to within three feet of the surface.
Our farmers dig their wells twenty to fifty feet deep and expect that every summer, the water level will drop to almost that depth. However, they aren't worried about their crops drying out because the water isn't allowed to drop within three feet of the surface.
The fact is, that Nature drains thoroughly the greater portion of all our lands; so that artificial drainage, though it may remove surplus water from them more speedily in Spring, cannot make them more dry in Summer. And what thus happens naturally, on most of the land, without injury, cannot be a dangerous result to effect by drainage on lands of similar character. By thorough-drainage, we endeavor to make lands which have an impervious or very retentive subsoil near the surface, sufficiently open to allow the surplus water to pass off, as it does naturally on our most productive upland.
The truth is, nature thoroughly drains most of our land, so while artificial drainage might remove extra water faster in spring, it doesn't make them drier in summer. What happens naturally on most land without causing harm shouldn't be a risky outcome when draining similar types of land. With thorough drainage, we try to make lands with an impermeable or very water-retaining subsoil close to the surface more open, allowing excess water to flow away, just like it does naturally on our most fertile upland.
OVER-DRAINING OF PEATY SOILS.
No instance has yet been made public in America, of the injury of peat lands by over-drainage; but there is a general impression among English writers, that peat soils are often injured in this way. The Lincolnshire Fens are cited by them, as illustrations of the fact, that these lands do not require deep drainage.
No cases have been publicly reported in America about the damage to peatlands from excessive drainage; however, there is a common belief among English writers that peat soils are often harmed this way. They cite the Lincolnshire Fens as examples showing that these lands don’t need deep drainage.
Mr. Pusey says, "Every one who is practically acquainted with moory land, knows that such land may be easily over-drained, so that the soil becomes dusty or husky, as it is called—that is, like a dry sponge—the white crops flag, and the turnip leaves turn yellow in a long drought."
Mr. Pusey says, "Everyone who is familiar with moorland knows that such land can be easily over-drained, causing the soil to become dusty or husky, as it’s called—that is, like a dry sponge. The white crops droop, and the turnip leaves turn yellow during a prolonged drought."
These Fens contain an immense extent of land. The Great Level of the Fens, it is said, contains 600,000 acres.[310] Much of this was formerly covered by the tides, and all of it, as the name indicates, was of a marshy character. The water being excluded by embankments against the sea and rivers, and pumped out by steam engines, and the land under-drained generally with tiles, so that the height of the water is under the control of the proprietors, grave disputes have arisen as to the proper amount of drainage.
These Fens cover a vast area of land. The Great Level of the Fens is said to have 600,000 acres.[310] Much of this land was once submerged by tides, and as the name suggests, it was mostly marshy. With water kept out by dikes against the sea and rivers, pumped out by steam engines, and generally drained with tiles, the landowners have control over the water level, leading to serious disputes over how much drainage is appropriate.
An impression has heretofore prevailed, that these lands would be too dry if the water were pumped out, so as to reduce the water-table more than a foot or two below the surface, but this idea is now controverted.
An impression has previously existed that these lands would be too dry if the water were pumped out, lowering the water table more than a foot or two below the surface, but this idea is now being challenged.
In July 1857, in company with three of the best farmers in Lincolnshire, the writer visited the Fens, and carefully examined the crops and drainage. We passed a day with one of the proprietors, who gave us some information upon the point in question. He stated, that in general, the occupants of this land entertain the opinion, that the crops would be ruined by draining to the depth of four feet. So strongly was he impressed with the belief that a deeper drainage was desirable, that he had enclosed his own estate with separate embankments, and put up a steam-engine, and pumped out the water to the depth of four feet, while from the land all around him, it is pumped out only a foot and a half below the surface, though in Summer it may sometimes fall somewhat lower.
In July 1857, along with three of the top farmers in Lincolnshire, the writer visited the Fens and carefully looked at the crops and drainage. We spent a day with one of the landowners, who shared some insights on the matter. He explained that, generally, the people working this land believe that draining to a depth of four feet would ruin the crops. He was so convinced that deeper drainage was necessary that he had surrounded his estate with separate embankments and installed a steam engine to pump the water out to a depth of four feet, whereas the surrounding land is only pumped down to a foot and a half below the surface, even though in summer it can sometimes go a bit lower.
The crops on this land were astonishing. Our friends estimated that the wheat then growing and nearly ripe, would yield fifty-six bushels to the acre. Although this was considered a very dry season, the crops on the land of our host were fully equal to the best upon the Fens.
The crops on this land were amazing. Our friends estimated that the wheat growing there, which was almost ripe, would yield fifty-six bushels per acre. Even though this was considered a very dry season, the crops on our host's land were just as good as the best ones in the Fens.
The soil upon that part of the Fens is now a fine black loam of twelve or eighteen inches depth, resting upon clay. Upon other portions, the soil is of various depth and character, resting sometimes upon gravel.[311]
The soil in that area of the Fens is now a rich black loam that is twelve to eighteen inches deep, sitting on clay. In other areas, the soil varies in depth and type, sometimes sitting on gravel.[311]
Attention is called to these facts here, to show that the common impression that these lands will not bear deep drainage, is controverted among the occupants themselves, and may prove to be one of those errors which becomes traditional, we hardly know how.
Attention is drawn to these facts here to demonstrate that the widespread belief that these lands cannot handle deep drainage is challenged among the people who live there and may turn out to be one of those misconceptions that becomes traditional, though we hardly know how.
Most peat meadows, in New England, when first relieved of stagnant water, are very light and spongy. The soil is filled with acids which require to be neutralized by an application of lime, or what is cheaper and equally effectual, by exposure to the atmosphere. These soils, when the water is suddenly drawn out of them, retain their bulk for a time, and are too porous and unsubstantial for cultivation. A season or two will cure this evil, in many cases. The soil will become more compact, and will often settle down many inches. It is necessary to bear this in mind in adjusting the drains, because a four-foot drain, when laid, may, by the mere subsidence of the land, become a three-foot drain.
Most peat meadows in New England, when first drained of stagnant water, are very light and spongy. The soil contains acids that need to be neutralized with lime or, more affordably and just as effectively, by letting it air out. When the water is suddenly removed, these soils hold their shape for a while but are too porous and unstable for farming. In many cases, it takes a season or two to fix this issue. The soil will become denser and often settle several inches. It's important to keep this in mind when adjusting the drains because a four-foot drain, once installed, might become a three-foot drain due to the land sinking.
A hasty judgment, in any case, that the land is over-drained, should be suspended until the soil has acquired compactness by its own weight, and by the ameliorating effect of culture and the elements.
A quick decision that the land is over-drained should be put on hold until the soil has become compact due to its own weight and the improving effects of farming practices and natural elements.
Mr. Denton, alluding to the opinion of "many intelligent men, that low meadow-land should be treated differently to upland pasture, and upland pasture differently to arable land," says, "My own observations bring me to the conclusion, that it is not possible to lay pasture-land too dry; for I have invariably remarked, during the recent dry Summer and Autumn particularly, that both in lowland meadows, and upland pastures, those lands which have been most thoroughly drained by deep and frequent drains, are those that have preserved the freshest and most profitable herbage."
Mr. Denton, referencing the views of "many knowledgeable people that low meadow-land should be managed differently than upland pasture, and upland pasture differently than arable land," states, "My own observations lead me to conclude that you can't make pasture-land too dry; because I've consistently noticed, especially during the recent dry Summer and Autumn, that both lowland meadows and upland pastures that have been well-drained with deep and frequent drainage are the ones that have kept the freshest and most productive grass."
While, therefore, we have much doubt whether any land, high or low, can be over-drained for general cultivation,[312] it is probable that a less expensive mode of drainage may be sometimes expedient for grass alone.
While we have a lot of doubts about whether any land, whether high or low, can be overly drained for general farming,[312] it’s likely that a cheaper drainage method might sometimes be beneficial just for grass.
While we believe that, in general, even peat soils may be safely drained to the same depth with other soil, there seems to be a well-founded opinion that they may frequently be rendered productive by a less thorough system.
While we believe that, in general, even peat soils can be safely drained to the same depth as other soils, there seems to be a strong belief that they can often be made productive with a less intensive system.
The only safety for us, is in careful experiment with our own lands, which vary so much in character and location, that no precise rules can be prescribed for their treatment.
The only way for us to be safe is through careful experimentation with our own lands, which differ so much in character and location that no exact rules can be set for how to manage them.
CHAPTER XVIII[313]
OBSTRUCTION OF DRAINS.
Tiles will fill up, unless well laid.—Obstruction by Sand or Silt.—Obstructions at the Outlet from Frogs, Moles, Action of Frost, and Cattle.—Obstruction by Roots.—Willow, Ash, &c., Trees capricious.—Roots enter Perennial Streams.—Obstruction by Mangold Wurtzel.—Obstruction by Per-Oxide of Iron.—How Prevented—Obstruction by the Joints Filling.—No Danger with Two-Inch Pipes.—Water through the Pores.—Collars.—How to Detect Obstructions.
Tiles will clog up unless they're properly laid out. — Blockages from sand or silt. — Blockages at the outlet caused by frogs, moles, frost, and livestock. — Blockages from roots. — Willows, ashes, and other trees can be unpredictable. — Roots can invade perennial streams. — Blockages from mangold wurtzel. — Blockages from iron peroxide. — How to prevent it — Blockages from joints filling up. — No risk with two-inch pipes. — Water flows through the pores. — Collars. — How to identify blockages.
But won't these tiles get filled up and stopped? asks almost every inquirer on the subject of tile draining.
But won't these tiles get clogged and blocked? asks almost everyone who inquires about tile drainage.
Certainly, they will, if not laid with great care, and with all proper precautions against obstructions. It cannot be too often repeated, that tile-drainage requires science, and knowledge, and skill, as well as money; and no man should go into it blindfold, or with faith in his innate perceptions of right. If he does, his education will be expensive.
Certainly, they will, if not installed with great care and all the necessary precautions against blockages. It can’t be stressed enough that tile drainage requires science, knowledge, and skill, as well as money; no one should approach it blindly or solely rely on their instinctive sense of what’s right. If they do, their education will be costly.
It is proposed to mention all the various modes by which tiles have been known to be obstructed, and to suggest how the danger of failure, by means of them, may be obviated.
It is suggested to outline all the different ways tiles have been obstructed and to propose how the risk of failure due to these issues can be avoided.
Let not enterprising readers be alarmed at such an array of difficulties, for the more conspicuous they become, the less is the danger from them.
Let not eager readers be worried by such a range of challenges, for the more obvious they are, the less dangerous they become.
Obstruction by Sand or Silt. Probably, more drains are rendered worthless, by being filled up with earthy matter, which passes with water through the joints of the tiles, than by every other cause.[314]
Obstruction by Sand or Silt. It's likely that more drains become useless because they're clogged with dirt that flows in with the water through the gaps in the tiles than due to any other reason.[314]
Fine sand will pass through the smallest aperture, if there is a current of water sufficient to move it, and silt, or the fine deposit of mud or other earth, which is held almost in solution in running water, is even more insinuating in its ways than sand.
Fine sand can pass through the tiniest opening if there's enough water flow to carry it, and silt, which is the fine layer of mud or other soil that is almost dissolved in flowing water, is even more adept at getting through than sand.
Very often, drains are filled up and ruined by these deposits; and, unless the fall be considerable, and the drain be laid with even descent, if earth of any kind find entrance, it must endanger the permanency of the work. To guard against the admission of everything but water, lay drains deep enough to be beyond the danger of water bursting in, in streamlets. Water should enter the drain at the bottom, by rising to the level of the tiles, and not by sinking from the surface directly to them. If the land is sandy, great care must be used. In draining through flowing sand, especially if there be a quick descent, the precaution of sheathing tiles is resorted to. That is done by putting small tiles inside of larger ones, breaking joints inside, and thus laying a double drain. This is only necessary, however, in spots of sand full of spring-water. Next best to this mode, is the use of collars over the joints, but these are not often used, though recommended for sandy land.
Drains often get blocked and damaged by these deposits; and unless the slope is significant and the drain is installed with a consistent angle, if any type of soil gets into it, it can jeopardize the durability of the system. To prevent anything other than water from getting in, make sure to lay drains deep enough to avoid the risk of water bursting in as small streams. Water should enter the drain from the bottom, rising to the level of the tiles, rather than coming down directly from the surface. If the soil is sandy, you need to be especially careful. When draining through loose sand, particularly if there's a steep slope, using sheathing tiles is a common precaution. This involves placing small tiles inside larger ones, offsetting the joints inside to create a double drain. However, this is only necessary in areas of sand filled with spring water. The second-best option is to use collars over the joints, but these aren't often used, even though they're suggested for sandy soil.
At least, in all land not perfectly sound, be careful to secure the joints in some way. An inverted turf, carefully laid over the joint, is oftenest used. Good, clean, fine gravel is, perhaps, best of all. Spent tan bark, when it is to be conveniently procured, is excellent, because it strains out the earth, while it freely admits water; and any particles of tan that find entrance, are floated out upon the water. The same may be said of sawdust.
At a minimum, in any land that isn’t completely solid, make sure to secure the joints in some way. An upside-down piece of turf, properly placed over the joint, is the most commonly used method. Good, clean, fine gravel might be the best option overall. Spent tan bark, when it’s easily available, works really well because it separates the earth while allowing water to flow through freely; any bits of tan that get in are washed away by the water. The same goes for sawdust.
To secure the exit of earth that may enter at the joints, there should be care that the tiles be smooth inside, that they be laid exactly in line, and that there be a continuous descent. If there be any place where the water rises in the[315] tiles, in that place, every particle of sand, or other matter heavier than water, will be likely to stop, until a barrier is formed, and the drain stopped.
To prevent dirt from getting in at the joints, make sure the tiles are smooth on the inside, laid perfectly in line, and there is a continuous slope. If there’s any spot where water pools in the[315] tiles, then every grain of sand or any other material heavier than water is likely to accumulate there, eventually forming a barrier and blocking the drainage.
In speaking of the forms of tiles, the superiority of rounded openings over those with flat bottom has been shown. The greater head of water in a round pipe, gives it force to drive before it all obstructions, and so tends to keep the drain clear.
In discussing the types of tiles, it has been demonstrated that rounded openings are better than flat-bottomed ones. The higher water level in a round pipe gives it the power to push aside any blockages, which helps keep the drain clear.
Obstructions at the Outlet. The water from deep drains is usually very clear, and cattle find the outlet a convenient place to drink at, and constantly tread up the soft ground there, and obstruct the flow of water. All earthy matter, and chemical solutions of iron, and the like, tend to accumulate by deposit at the outlet. Frogs and mice, and insects of many kinds, collect about such places, and creep into the drains. The action of frost in cold regions displaces the earth, and even masonry, if not well laid; and back-water, by flowing into the drains, hinders the free passage of water.
Obstructions at the Outlet. The water from deep drains is typically very clear, and cattle find the outlet a convenient spot to drink, often trampling the soft ground and blocking the flow of water. All types of soil and chemical solutions of iron and similar substances tend to collect and settle at the outlet. Frogs, mice, and various insects gather around these areas and creep into the drains. In colder regions, the action of frost can shift the earth and even displace masonry if it's not properly constructed; additionally, backwater flowing into the drains can impede the free passage of water.
All these causes tend to obstruct drains at the outlet. If once stopped there, the whole pipe becomes filled with stagnant water, which deposits all its earthy matter, and soon becomes obstructed at other points, and so becomes useless. The outlet must be rendered secure from all these dangers, at all seasons, by some such means as are suggested in the chapter on the Arrangement of Drains.
All these factors can block drains at the outlet. Once blocked, the entire pipe fills with stagnant water, which leaves behind all its sediment and quickly gets clogged at other spots, making it ineffective. The outlet needs to be protected from these risks at all times, using methods mentioned in the chapter on the Arrangement of Drains.
Obstruction by roots. On the author's farm in Exeter, a wooden drain, to carry off waste water from a watering place, was laid, with a triangular opening of about four inches. This was found to be obstructed the second year after it was laid; and upon taking it up, it proved to be entirely filled for several feet, with willow roots, which grew like long, fine grass, thickly matted together, so as entirely to close the drain. There was a row of large willows about thirty feet distant, and as the drain was but[316] about two feet deep, they found their way easily to it, and entering between the rough joints of the boards, not very carefully fitted, fattened on the spring water till they outgrew their new house.
Obstruction by roots. On the author's farm in Exeter, a wooden drain was installed to carry away waste water from a watering area, featuring a triangular opening about four inches wide. It was discovered to be blocked two years after installation; when it was dug up, it was completely filled for several feet with willow roots, which grew like long, thin grass, densely tangled together, effectively sealing off the drain. There was a row of large willows about thirty feet away, and since the drain was only about two feet deep, the roots easily found their way to it, entering through the rough joints of the boards that were not very well fitted, and thrived on the spring water until they outgrew their new home.
A neighbor says, he never wants a tree within ten rods of any land he desires to plow; and it would be unsafe to undertake to set limits to the extent of the roots of trees. "No crevice, however small," says a writer, "is proof against the entrance of the roots of water-loving trees."
A neighbor says he never wants a tree within ten rods of any land he wants to plow; and it would be risky to try to limit how far the roots of trees spread. "No crack, no matter how small," says a writer, "can stop the roots of water-loving trees from getting in."
The behavior of roots is, however, very capricious in this matter; for, while occasional instances occur of drains being obstructed by them, it is a very common thing for drains to operate perfectly for indefinite periods, where they run through forests and orchards for long distances. They, however, who lay drains near to willows and ashes, and the like cold-water drinkers, must do it at the peril of which they are warned.
The behavior of roots, however, can be pretty inconsistent in this regard; while there are times when drains get blocked by them, it's quite common for drains to work perfectly for long stretches, especially when they run through forests and orchards over great distances. However, those who install drains close to willows, ashes, and similar water-loving plants should do so at their own risk, as warned.
Laying the tiles deep and with collars will afford the best security from all danger of this kind.
Laying the tiles deep and with collars will provide the best protection against any such danger.
Thos. Gisborne, Esq., in a note to the edition of his Essay on Drainage published in 1852, says:
Thos. Gisborne, Esq., in a note to the edition of his Essay on Drainage published in 1852, says:
My own experience as to roots, in connection with deep pipe draining, is as follows:—I have never known roots to obstruct a pipe through which there was not a perennial stream. The flow of water in Summer and early Autumn appears to furnish the attraction. I have never discovered that the roots of any esculent vegetable have obstructed a pipe. The trees which, by my own personal observation, I have found to be most dangerous, have been red willow, black Italian poplar, alder, ash, and broad-leaved elm. I have many alders in close contiguity with important drains; and, though I have never convicted one, I can not doubt that they are dangerous. Oak, and black and white thorns, I have not detected, nor do I suspect them. The guilty trees have, in every instance, been young and free growing; I have never convicted an adult.
My experience with roots and deep pipe drainage is this: I've never seen roots block a pipe unless there was a constant flow of water. It seems that water during the summer and early autumn attracts them. I haven't found that the roots of any edible plants cause blockages. The trees I've observed to be the most problematic are red willow, black Italian poplar, alder, ash, and broad-leaved elm. I have many alders near important drains, and even though I haven't caught one causing an issue, I believe they are a risk. I haven't noticed oak or black and white thorns being a problem, nor do I think they are. The trees that have caused issues have always been young and vigorous; I've never encountered a mature tree causing a blockage.
Mangold-wurzel, it is said by several writers, will sometimes grow down into tile drains, even to the depth of four feet, and entirely obstruct them; but those are cases of[317] very rare occurrence. In thousands of instances, mangolds have been cultivated on drained land, even where tiles were but 2½ feet deep, without causing any obstruction of the drains. Any reader who is curious in such matters, may find in the appendix to the 10th Vol. of the Journal of the Royal Ag. Soc., a singular instance of obstruction of drains by the roots of the mangold, as well as instances of obstructions by the roots of trees.
Mangold-wurzel, as stated by several writers, can sometimes grow down into tile drains up to four feet deep and completely block them; however, such cases are[317] very rare. In thousands of cases, mangolds have been grown on drained land, even when the tiles were only 2½ feet deep, without causing any drain blockages. Any reader interested in this topic can find an unusual case of drain blockage caused by mangold roots in the appendix of the 10th Volume of the Journal of the Royal Ag. Soc., along with other instances of blockage by tree roots.
Obstruction by Per-oxide of Iron. In the author's barn-cellar is a watering place, supplied by a half-inch lead pipe, from a spring some eight rods distant. This pipe several times in a year, sometimes once a week, in cold weather, is entirely stopped. The stream of water is never much larger than a lead pencil. We usually start it with a sort of syringe, by forcing into the outlet a quantity of water. It then runs very thick, and of the color of iron rust, sometimes several pails full, and will then run clear for weeks or months, perhaps. In the tub which receives the water, there is always a large deposit of this same colored substance; and along the street near by, where the water oozes out of the bank, there is this same appearance of iron. This deposit is, in common language, called per-oxide of iron, though this term is not, by chemists of the present day, deemed sufficiently accurate, and the word sesqui-oxide is preferred in scientific works.
Obstruction by Per-oxide of Iron. In the author's barn cellar, there's a watering spot supplied by a half-inch lead pipe, which comes from a spring about eight rods away. This pipe gets completely blocked several times a year, sometimes even once a week during the cold weather. The flow of water is usually no bigger than a lead pencil. We typically get it going again with a kind of syringe, pushing a bit of water into the outlet. It then flows very thick and has the color of rust, sometimes filling several buckets, and it can run clear for weeks or even months after that. In the tub that collects the water, there's always a large buildup of this same colored material; and along the nearby street, where the water seeps out of the bank, there's also the same rusty appearance. This buildup is commonly referred to as per-oxide of iron, although chemists today don't consider this term to be precise enough, and the term sesqui-oxide is preferred in scientific literature.
Iron exists in all animal and vegetable matter, and in all soils, to some extent. It exists as protoxide of iron, in which one atom of iron always combines with one atom of oxygen, and it exists as sesqui-oxide of iron, from the Latin sesqui, which means one and a half, in which one and a half atoms of oxygen combine with one atom of iron. The less accurate term, per-oxide, has been adopted here, because it is found in general use by writers on drainage.
Iron can be found in all animal and plant matter, and in all types of soil, to some degree. It exists as ferrous oxide, where one atom of iron combines with one atom of oxygen, and as ferric oxide, derived from the Latin sesqui, meaning one and a half, in which one and a half atoms of oxygen combine with one atom of iron. The less precise term, peroxide, is used here because it is commonly adopted by authors discussing drainage.
The theory is that the iron exists in the soil, and is held[318] in solution in water as a protoxide, and is converted into per-oxide by contact with the air, either in the drains or at their outlets, and is then deposited at the bottom of the water.
The theory is that the iron is present in the soil and is kept[318] dissolved in water as a protoxide. It gets converted into peroxide when it comes into contact with air, either in the drains or at their outlets, and is then deposited at the bottom of the water.
In a pipe running full there would be, upon this theory, no exposure to the air, which should form the per-oxide. In the case stated, it is probable that the per-oxide is formed at the exposed surface of a large cask, at the spring, and is carried into the pipe, as it is precipitated. Common drain pipes would be full of air, which might, perhaps, in a feeble current, be sufficient to cause this deposit.
In a fully filled pipe, according to this theory, there would be no exposure to the air that would create the peroxide. In the situation described, it's likely that the peroxide forms on the exposed surface of a large cask, at the spring, and gets carried into the pipe as it precipitates. Regular drain pipes would be filled with air, which might, in a weak current, be enough to cause this deposit.
Occasionally, cases have occurred of obstruction from this cause, and whenever the signs of this deposit are visible about the field to be drained, care must be used to guard against it in draining.
Occasionally, cases of obstruction have happened for this reason, and whenever the signs of this buildup are visible in the field that needs to be drained, precautions should be taken to prevent it during the drainage process.
To guard against obstruction from per-oxide of iron, tiles should be laid deep, closely jointed or collared, with great care that the fall be continuous, and especially that there be a quick fall at the junctions of minor drains with mains, and a clear outlet.
To prevent clogging from iron oxide, tiles should be installed deeply, tightly joined or fitted with collars, making sure the slope is consistent, especially with a steep slope where smaller drains connect to the main lines, along with a clear outlet.
Mr. Beattie, of Aberdeen, says: Before adopting 4 feet drains, I had much difficulty in dealing with the iron ore which generally appeared at two to three feet from the surface, but by the extra depth the water filters off to the pipes free of ore. Occasionally, iron ore is found at a greater depth, but the floating substance is then in most cases lighter, and does not adhere to the pipes in the same way as that found near the surface. Arrangements should also be made for examining the drains by means of wells, and for flushing them by holding back the water until the drains are filled, and then letting it suddenly off, or, by occasionally admitting a stream of water at the upper end, when practicable, and thus washing out the pipes. Mr. Denton says: "It is found that the use of this contrivance[319] for flushing, will get rid of the per-oxide of iron, about which so much complaint is made."
Mr. Beattie, from Aberdeen, says: Before using 4-foot drains, I had a lot of trouble dealing with the iron ore that usually appeared 2 to 3 feet below the surface. However, with the extra depth, the water drains off to the pipes without the ore. Sometimes, iron ore is found deeper, but the floating material is generally lighter and doesn't cling to the pipes in the same way as the stuff found closer to the surface. There should also be plans to check the drains through wells and to flush them by holding back the water until the drains are full, then releasing it suddenly, or by sometimes letting a stream of water in from the upper end when possible, which helps wash out the pipes. Mr. Denton says: "It is found that using this device[319] for flushing will eliminate the peroxide of iron, which has been a major complaint."
Obstruction by Filling at the Joints. One would suppose that tiles might frequently be prevented from receiving water, by the filling up of the crevices between them. If water poured on to tiles in a stream, it would be likely to carry into these openings enough earthy matter to fill them; but the whole theory of thorough-drainage rests upon the idea of slow percolation—of the passage of water in the form of fine dew, as it were—through the motionless particles which compose the soil; and, if drains are properly laid, there can be no motion of particles of earth, either into or towards the tiles. The water should soak through the ground precisely as it does through a wet cloth.
Obstruction by Filling at the Joints. One might think that tiles could often be prevented from absorbing water by filling in the gaps between them. If water was poured on the tiles in a steady stream, it would likely carry enough soil into these openings to fill them. However, the entire concept of effective drainage relies on the principle of slow absorption—where water seeps through the stationary particles that make up the soil, much like fine dew. If drains are installed correctly, there won’t be any movement of soil particles toward or into the tiles. The water should soak into the ground just like it would through a wet cloth.
In an article in the Journal of the Society of Arts, published in 1855, Mr. Thomas Arkell states that in 1846 he had drained a few acres with 1¼ inch pipes, about three feet deep, and 21 to 25 feet apart. The drains acted well, and the land was tolerably dry and healthy for the first few years; but afterwards, in wet seasons, it was very wet, and appeared full of water, like undrained land, although at the time all the drains were running, but very slowly. His conclusion was that mud had entered the crevices, and stopped the water out. He says he has known other persons, who had used small pipes, who had suffered in the same way. There are many persons still in England, who are so apprehensive on this point, that they continue to use horse-shoe tiles, or, as they are sometimes called, "tops and bottoms," which admit water more freely along the joints.
In an article in the Journal of the Society of Arts, published in 1855, Mr. Thomas Arkell mentions that in 1846 he drained a few acres using 1¼ inch pipes, about three feet deep, and spaced 21 to 25 feet apart. The drains worked well, and the land was reasonably dry and healthy for the first few years; however, later on, during wet seasons, it became very soggy and looked like undrained land, even though all the drains were flowing, albeit very slowly. He concluded that mud had gotten into the gaps and blocked the water. He notes that he has known other people who used small pipes and experienced the same issue. Many people in England are still so concerned about this that they continue to use horse-shoe tiles, or what are sometimes referred to as "tops and bottoms," which allow water to flow more easily through the joints.
The most skillful engineers, however, decidedly prefer round pipes, but recommend that none smaller than one-and-a-half-inch be used, and prefer two-inch to any smaller size. The circumference of a two-inch pipe is not far[320] from nine inches, while that of a one-inch pipe, of common thickness, is about half that, so that the opening is twice as extensive in the two-inch, pipes as in the one-inch pipe.
The most skilled engineers, however, clearly prefer round pipes, but suggest that none smaller than one-and-a-half inches be used, and prefer two inches over any smaller size. The circumference of a two-inch pipe is just under nine inches, while that of a common one-inch pipe is about half of that, meaning the opening is twice as big in the two-inch pipe as in the one-inch pipe.
The ascertained instances of the obstruction of pipes, by excluding the water from the joints, are very few. No doubt that clay, puddled in upon the tiles when laid, might have this effect; but they who have experience in tile-drainage, will bear witness that there is far more difficulty in excluding sand and mud, than there is in admitting water.
The confirmed cases of pipe blockages due to water being kept out of the joints are very few. It's true that clay, pressed against the tiles when they're installed, could cause this issue; however, those with experience in tile drainage will attest that it's much harder to keep out sand and mud than it is to let in water.
It is thought, by some persons, that sufficient water to drain land may be admitted through the pores of the tiles. We have no such faith. The opinion of Mr. Parkes, that about 500 times as much water enters at the crevices between each pair of tiles, as is absorbed through the tiles themselves, we think to be far nearer the truth.
It is believed by some that enough water to drain land can pass through the pores of the tiles. We don't share that belief. We think Mr. Parkes is much closer to the truth when he says that about 500 times more water comes in through the gaps between each pair of tiles than is absorbed through the tiles themselves.
Collars have a great tendency to prevent the closing up of the crevices between tiles; but injuries to drains laid at proper depths, with two-inch pipes, even without collars, must be very rare. Indeed, no single case of a drain obstructed in this way, when laid four feet deep, has yet come within our reading or observation, and it is rather as a possible, than even a probable, cause of failure, that it has been mentioned.
Collars tend to keep the gaps between tiles from closing up; however, damage to drains installed at the correct depths with two-inch pipes, even without collars, is quite uncommon. In fact, we haven't encountered a single case of a drain obstructed this way when it's been laid four feet deep, and it's mentioned more as a potential than likely cause of failure.
HOW TO DETECT OBSTRUCTIONS IN DRAINS.
When a drain is entirely obstructed, if there is a considerable flow of water, and the ground is much descending, the water will at once press through the joints of the pipes, and show itself at the surface. By thrusting down a bar along the course of the drain, the place of the obstruction will be readily determined; for the water will, at the point of greatest pressure, burst up in the hole made by the bar, like a spring, while below the point of obstruction,[321] there will be no upward pressure of the water, and above it, the pressure will be less the farther we go.
When a drain is completely blocked, if there's a significant flow of water and the ground slopes downward, the water will immediately push through the joints of the pipes and appear at the surface. By pushing a rod along the path of the drain, you can easily locate the blockage; at the point of highest pressure, the water will shoot up through the hole made by the rod, like a spring, while below the blockage,[321] there will be no upward pressure from the water, and above it, the pressure will decrease the further you go.
The point being determined, it is the work of but few minutes to dig down upon the drain, remove carefully a few pipes, and take out the frog, or mouse, or the broken tile, if such be the cause of the difficulty. If silt or earth has caused the obstruction, it is probably because of a depression in the line of the drain, or a defect in some junction with other drains, and this may require the taking up of more or less of the pipes.
Once the issue is identified, it only takes a few minutes to dig down to the drain, carefully remove a few pipes, and take out the frog, mouse, or broken tile if that's what's causing the problem. If silt or dirt has caused the blockage, it’s likely due to a dip in the drain line or a fault in the connection with other drains, which might need more or fewer pipes to be lifted.
If there be but little fall in the drains, the obstruction will not be so readily found; but the effect of the water will soon be observed at the surface, both in keeping the soil wet, and in chilling the vegetation upon it. If proper peep-holes have been provided, the place of any obstruction may readily be determined, at a glance into them.
If there's only a small drop in the drains, the blockage won't be as easy to spot; however, the impact of the water will quickly become noticeable on the surface, both by keeping the soil damp and by cooling the plants growing there. If the right inspection holes have been created, you can easily figure out where any blockage is just by looking into them.
Upon our own land, we have had two or three instances of obstruction by sand, very soon after the tiles were laid, and always at the junction of drains imperfectly secured with bricks, before we had procured proper branch-pipes for the purpose.
Upon our own land, we have had two or three cases of blockage caused by sand, shortly after the tiles were laid, and always at the points where the drains weren’t properly secured with bricks, before we had obtained the right branch pipes for the job.
A little experience will enable the proprietor at once to detect any failure of his drains, and to apply the proper remedy. Obstructions from silt and sand are much more likely to occur during the first season after the drains are laid, than afterwards, because the earth is loose about the pipes, and more liable to be washed into the joints, than after it has become compact.
A bit of experience will quickly help the owner spot any issues with their drains and implement the right solution. Blockages from silt and sand are much more likely to happen in the first season after the drains are installed than later on because the soil is loose around the pipes and more prone to washing into the joints compared to when it has settled.
On the whole, we believe the danger to tile-drains, of obstruction, is very little, provided good tiles are used, and proper care is exercised in laying them.
On the whole, we believe the risk of tile drains getting blocked is very low, as long as good tiles are used and proper care is taken during installation.
CHAPTER XIX[322]
DRAINAGE OF STIFF CLAYS.
Clay not impervious, or it could not be wet and dried.—Puddling, what is.—Water will stand over Drains on Puddled Soil.—Cracking of Clays by Drying.—Drained Clays improve by time.—Passage of Water through Clay makes it permeable.—Experiment by Mr. Pettibone, of Vermont.—Pressure of Water in saturated Soil.
Clay is not waterproof, or it wouldn't be able to get wet and dry out. — Puddling, what it is. — Water will pool over drains on puddled soil. — Cracking of clays from drying. — Drained clays get better over time. — The movement of water through clay makes it permeable. — Experiment by Mr. Pettibone from Vermont. — Pressure of water in saturated soil.
It is a common impression that clay is impervious to water, and that, therefore, a clay soil cannot be drained, especially by deep under-drains. A moment's reflection will satisfy any one that such land is not absolutely impervious. We find such land is wet in Spring, at any depth; and, in the latter part of Summer, we find it comparatively dry. How comes it wet, at any time, if water does not go into it? And how comes it dry, at any time, if water does not come out of it?
It’s a common belief that clay is waterproof, so a clay soil can’t be drained, especially with deep drains. But a moment’s thought shows that this land isn’t completely waterproof. We see that it’s wet in the Spring at any depth, and by the end of Summer, it’s relatively dry. How can it be wet at any time if water isn’t getting into it? And how can it be dry at any time if water isn’t coming out of it?
In treating of the power of the soil to absorb moisture, we have shown that a clay soil will absorb more than half its weight and bulk of water, and that it holds more water than any other soil, with, perhaps, the single exception of peat.
In discussing the soil's ability to absorb moisture, we have demonstrated that clay soil can take in more than half its weight and volume in water, and it retains more water than any other type of soil, with the possible exception of peat.
The facts, however, that clay may be wet, and may be dried, and that it readily absorbs large quantities of water, though they prove conclusively that it is not impervious to water, yet do not prove that water will pass through it with sufficient rapidity to answer the practical purposes of drainage for agriculture. This point can only be satisfactorily determined by experiment. It is not necessary, however, that each farmer should try the experiment[323] for himself; because, although we are very apt to think our own case an exception to all general rules, it is not really probable that any new kind of clay will be discovered hereafter, that is so different from all other clay that is known, that established principles will not apply to it. So far as our own observation extends, owners of clay farms always over-estimate the difficulty of draining their land. There are certain notorious facts with regard to clay, which mislead the judgment of men on this point. One of these facts is, that clay is used for stopping water, by the process called puddling. Puddled clay is used for the bottom of ponds, and of canals, and of reservoirs, and, for such purposes, is regarded as nearly, or quite impervious.
The facts that clay can be wet and dried, and that it easily absorbs large amounts of water, clearly show that it isn't waterproof. However, this doesn't prove that water will move through it quickly enough to be effective for agricultural drainage. This can only be definitively determined through testing. It's not necessary for every farmer to conduct this test[323] themselves; even though we often think our situation is unique, it's unlikely that any new type of clay will be so different from known varieties that established principles won't apply. From what we've observed, owners of clay farms usually overestimate how challenging it is to drain their land. There are certain well-known facts about clay that can mislead people’s judgment on this matter. One of these is that clay is used to block water through a process called puddling. Puddled clay is used at the bottoms of ponds, canals, and reservoirs, and for these purposes, it is viewed as nearly or completely waterproof.
We see that, on our clay fields, water stands upon the surface, especially in the ruts of wheels, and on headlands much trodden, late in the season, and when, in other places, it has disappeared. This is due, also, to puddling.
We notice that in our clay fields, water collects on the surface, especially in the wheel ruts and on heavily walked headlands late in the season when it's dried up in other areas. This is also due to puddling.
Puddling is merely the working of wet clay, or other soil, by beating, or treading, or stirring, until its particles are so finely divided that water has an exceedingly slow passage between them, with ordinary pressure. We see the effect of this operation on common highways, where water often stands for many days in puddles, because the surface has been ground so fine, and rendered so compact, by wheels and horses, that the water cannot find passage. This, however, is not the natural condition of any clay; nor can any clay be kept in this condition, except by being constantly wet. If once dried, or subjected to the action of frost, the soil resumes its natural condition of porosity, as will be presently explained. They who object to deep drainage, or to the possibility of draining stiff clays, point to the fact that water may be seen standing directly over the drains, on thorough-drained fields. We have seen this on our own fields. In one instance, we[324] had, after laying tiles through a field, at 50 feet intervals, in the same Autumn, when the land was wet, teamed across it a large quantity of soil for compost, with a heavy ox-team. The next Spring, the water stood for many days in that track which passed across tile-drains, after it had disappeared elsewhere in the field. A fine crop of Indian corn grew on the field that year, but the effect of the puddling was visible the whole season. "One inch of wet and worked clay," says a scientific writer, "will prevent water from passing through, so long as it is kept wet, as effectually as a yard will do."
Puddling is simply the process of working wet clay or other soil by beating, treading, or stirring it until its particles are so finely divided that water moves through them very slowly under normal pressure. We can see this effect on regular roads, where water often stands in puddles for days because the surface has been compacted so finely by wheels and horses that the water can't drain away. However, this isn’t the natural state of any clay; no clay can stay in this condition unless it's kept constantly wet. If it dries out or gets frozen, the soil returns to its natural porous state, as will be explained shortly. Those who are against deep drainage or believe stiff clays can't be drained often point out that water can be seen standing directly over the drains in well-drained fields. We've observed this ourselves. In one case, after we laid tiles through a field at 50-foot intervals, we transported a large amount of soil for compost across it using a heavy ox team during the fall when the land was wet. The following spring, water stood for many days in the track where it crossed the tile drains, even after it had drained away elsewhere in the field. A great crop of corn grew in that field that year, but the impact of the puddling was noticeable all season long. "One inch of wet and worked clay," says a scientific writer, "will prevent water from passing through, as long as it remains wet, just as effectively as a yard would."
"If," says Gisborne, "you eat off turnips with sheep, if you plow the land, or cart on it, or in any way puddle it, when it is wet, of course the water will lie on the surface, and will not go to your drains. A four-foot drain may go very near a pit, or a water-course, without attracting water from either, because water-courses almost invariably puddle their beds; and the same effect is produced in pits by the treading of cattle, and even by the motion of the water produced by wind. A very thin film of puddle, always wet on one side, is impervious, because it cannot crack."
"If," Gisborne says, "if you eat turnips with sheep, if you plow the land, or cart on it, or in any way disturb it when it’s wet, the water will sit on the surface and won’t flow to your drains. A four-foot drain can be quite close to a pit or a watercourse without drawing water from either because watercourses usually create a muddy layer at their base; the same happens in pits due to cattle walking over them, and even from the movement of water from the wind. A very thin layer of mud, always wet on one side, is impenetrable, because it can't crack."
In those four words, we find an allusion to the whole mystery of the drainage of clays—a key which unlocks the secret by which the toughest of these soils may be converted, as by a fairy charm, to fields of waving grain.
In those four words, we see a reference to the entire mystery of clay drainage—a key that reveals the secret to transforming even the toughest soils, almost like a magic spell, into fields of swaying grain.
CRACKING OF CLAYS BY DRYING.
"In drying under the influence of the sun," says Prof. Johnston, "soils shrink in, and thus diminish in bulk, in proportion to the quantity of clay, or of peaty matter, they contain. Sand scarcely diminishes at all in bulk by drying; but peat shrinks one-fifth in bulk, and strong agricultural clay nearly as much." By laying drains in land, we take from it that portion of the water that will run out at the bottom. The sun, by evaporation, then takes out a portion at the top. The soil is thus contracted, and, as the ends of the field cannot approach each other,[325] both soil and subsoil are torn apart, and divided by a network of cracks and fissures. Every one who is familiar with clay land, or who has observed the bottom of a ditch or frog pond by the roadside, must have observed these cracks, thus caused by the contraction of the soil in drying. The same contraction occurs in drier land, by cold, in Winter; by which, in cold regions, deep rents are made in the earth, and reports, like those of cannon, are often heard. The cracking by drying, however, is more quiet in its effects, merely dividing the ground, noiselessly, into smaller and smaller masses, as the process proceeds. Were it not for this process, it may well be doubted whether clay lands could be effectually drained at all. Nature, however, seems to second our efforts here, for we have seen that the stiffer the clay, the greater the contraction, and the more the soil is split up and rendered permeable by this operation.
"In drying under the sun," says Prof. Johnston, "soils contract and reduce in volume, depending on the amount of clay or peaty material they contain. Sand hardly changes in volume when dried; however, peat shrinks by one-fifth, and strong agricultural clay shrinks nearly as much." By installing drains in the land, we remove the water that drains out from below. The sun then evaporates some of the water from the top. This causes the soil to shrink, and since the ends of the field can't come closer together, both the soil and subsoil are pulled apart, creating a network of cracks and fissures. Anyone familiar with clay soil or who has looked at the bottom of a ditch or frog pond by the roadside must have noticed these cracks formed by the drying soil. A similar shrinking occurs in drier land during cold weather in winter, which can create deep cracks in the earth, often accompanied by sounds like cannon fire. However, the cracking caused by drying is quieter, silently dividing the ground into smaller and smaller pieces as the process continues. Without this process, it might be questionable whether clay lands could be effectively drained at all. Nature seems to support our efforts here, as we have observed that the stiffer the clay, the greater the contraction, leading to more fragmentation of the soil and increased permeability from this process.
These cracks are found, by observation, to commence at the drains, and extend further and further, in almost straight lines, into the subsoil, forming so many minor drains, or feeders, all leading to the tiles. These main fissures have numerous smaller ones diverging from them, so that the whole mass is divided and subdivided into the most minute portions. The main fissures gradually enlarge, as the dryness increases, and, at the same time, lengthen out; so that, in a very dry season, they may be traced the whole way between the drains. The following cut will give some idea of these cracks, or fissures, as they exist in a dry time:
These cracks are observed to start at the drains and extend further and further in almost straight lines into the subsoil, creating many minor drains or feeders that all lead to the tiles. These main fissures have numerous smaller ones branching off from them, dividing the entire mass into the tiniest portions. The main fissures gradually widen as the dryness increases and also lengthen out; so that in very dry seasons, they can be traced all the way between the drains. The following illustration will provide some insight into these cracks or fissures as they appear during dry periods:

Fig. 98.—Cracking of Clays by Drainage.
Fig. 98.—Cracking of Clays due to Drainage.
Mr. Gisborne says: "Clay lands always shrink and crack with drought; and the stiffer the clay, the greater the shrinking, as brick-makers well know. In the great drought thirty-six years ago, we saw, in a very retentive soil in the Vale of Belvoir, cracks which it was not very pleasant to ride among. This very Summer, on land, which, with reference to this very subject, the owner stated to be impervious, we put a walking-stick three feet into a sun-crack without finding a bottom, and the whole surface was a network of cracks. In the drained soil, the roots follow the threads of vegetable mould which have been washed into the cracks, and get an abiding tenure. Earth-worms follow either the roots or the mould. Permanent schisms are established in the clay, and its whole character is changed."
Mr. Gisborne says: "Clay soils always shrink and crack during dry spells, and the tougher the clay, the more it shrinks, as brick-makers know well. During the major drought thirty-six years ago, we saw some pretty large cracks in very moisture-retaining soil in the Vale of Belvoir that weren’t pleasant to ride through. This summer, on land that the owner claimed was impervious regarding this exact issue, we stuck a walking stick three feet into a sun-crack without hitting the bottom, and the entire surface was covered in a network of cracks. In the drained soil, the roots follow the strands of vegetable matter that have been washed into the cracks and establish a lasting hold. Earthworms follow either the roots or the organic matter. Permanent fissures form in the clay, completely changing its character."
In the United States, the supply of rain is far less uniform than in England, and much severer droughts are experienced. Thus the contraction, and consequent cracking of the soil, must be greater here than in that country.
In the United States, rainfall is much less consistent than in England, and the droughts can be much more severe. As a result, the soil shrinks and cracks more here than it does in that country.
In laying drains more than four feet deep, in the stiffest clay which the author has seen, in a neighborhood furnishing abundance of brick and potter's clay, these cracks were seen to extend to the very bottoms of the drains, not in single fissures from top to bottom, but in innumerable seams running in all directions, so that the earth, moved with the pick-axe, came up in little cubes and flakes, and could be separated into pieces of an inch or less diameter. This was on a ridge which received no water except from the clouds, having no springs in or upon it, yet so nearly impervious to water, that it remained soft and muddy till late in June. In Midsummer, however, under our burning sun, it had, by evaporation, been so much dried as to produce the effect described.
In digging drains deeper than four feet in the hardest clay the author has encountered, in an area rich in brick and pottery clay, these cracks were found to reach the very bottoms of the drains, not as single splits from top to bottom, but as countless seams running in all directions. As a result, the soil, disturbed with the pickaxe, came up in small cubes and flakes and could be broken down into pieces measuring an inch or less in diameter. This was on a ridge that only received water from rainfall, with no springs situated on it or nearby, yet it was so nearly impermeable to water that it stayed soft and muddy until late June. However, in midsummer, under the intense sun, it dried out significantly due to evaporation, resulting in the described effect.
In England, we learn, that these cracks extend to the depth of four feet or more. Mr. Hewitt Davis stated in a public discussion, with reference to draining strong soils, that, "he gave four feet as the minimum depth of the drains in these soils, because he had always found that the cracks and fissures formed by the drought and changes of temperature, on the strongest clay, and which made these soils permeable,[327] extended below this depth, and the water from the surface might be made to reach the drains at this distance."
In England, we find that these cracks go down to a depth of four feet or more. Mr. Hewitt Davis mentioned in a public discussion about draining heavy soils that he considered four feet to be the minimum depth for drains in these types of soil. He had always observed that the cracks and fissures created by drought and temperature changes in the strongest clay, which made these soils permeable,[327] extended below this depth, allowing water from the surface to reach the drains at that distance.
In clay that has never been dried, as for instance, that found under wet meadows from which the water has but recently been drawn, we should not, of course, expect to find these cracks. Accordingly, we find sometimes in clay pits, excavated below the permanent water-line, and in wells, that the clay is in a compact mass, and tears apart without exhibiting anything like these divisions.
In clay that hasn’t dried out, like the kind found under wet meadows where the water has just been removed, we shouldn't expect to see these cracks. So, we sometimes find that in clay pits dug below the permanent water level and in wells, the clay is solid and pulls apart without showing any signs of these divisions.
We should not expect that, on such a clay, the full effect of drainage would be at once apparent. The water falling on the surface would very slowly find its way downward, at first. But after the heat of Summer, aided by the drains underneath, had contracted and cracked the soil, passages for the water would soon be found, and, after a few years, the whole mass, to the depth of the drains, would become open and permeable. As an old English farmer said of his drains, "They do better year by year; the water gets a habit of coming to them." Although this be not philosophical language, yet the fact is correctly stated. Water tends towards the lowest openings. A deep well often diverts the underground stream from a shallower well, and lays it dry. A single railroad cut sometimes draws off the supply of water from a whole neighborhood. Passages thus formed are enlarged by the pressure of the water, and new ones are opened by the causes already suggested, till the drainage becomes perfect for all practical purposes. So much is this cracking process relied on to facilitate drainage, that skillful drainers frequently leave their ditches partly open, after laying the tiles, that the heat may produce the more effect during the first season.
We shouldn't expect that, on clay soil, the full impact of drainage will be immediately obvious. At first, the water falling on the surface will take a long time to seep down. But after the summer heat, combined with the drains below, has cracked and dried out the soil, channels for the water will develop quickly. After a few years, the entire mass, down to the depth of the drains, will become open and able to absorb water. As an old English farmer once said about his drains, "They get better year by year; the water learns to come to them." While this may not sound very scientific, it's true. Water naturally flows to the lowest openings. A deep well can often redirect underground water away from a nearby shallow well, leaving it dry. Sometimes, a single railroad cut can drain water supplies from an entire area. These channels get larger under the pressure of water, and new ones form due to the previously mentioned reasons, until drainage is effectively optimized for all practical uses. The cracking process is so relied upon for improving drainage that skilled drainers sometimes leave their ditches partially open after laying the tiles, allowing the heat to have a greater impact during the first season.
As to the depth of drains in stiff clays, enough has already been said, under the appropriate title. In England, the weight of authority is in favor of four-foot drains.[328] In this country, a less depth has thus far, in general, been adopted in practice, but it is believed that this has been because a greater depth has not been tried. It is understood, that the most successful drainers in the State of New York, have been satisfied with three-foot drains, not, as it is believed, because there is any instance on record, in this country, of the failure of four-foot drains, but because the effect of more shallow drains has been so satisfactory, that it has been thought a useless expense to go deeper. To Mr. Johnston and to Mr. Delafield, of Seneca County, the country is greatly indebted for their enterprise and leadership in the matter of drainage. Mr. Johnston gives it as his opinion, that "three feet is deep enough, if the bottom is hard enough to lay tiles on; if not, go deeper."
Regarding the depth of drains in tough clays, enough has been discussed under the relevant topic. In England, the leading opinion supports four-foot drains.[328] In this country, a shallower depth has generally been practiced, but it's believed this is only because deeper options haven't been explored. It’s understood that the most successful drainers in New York State have been content with three-foot drains, not because there are any known failures of four-foot drains in this country, but because the results from shallower drains have been so positive that digging deeper has seemed unnecessary. The country owes much to Mr. Johnston and Mr. Delafield from Seneca County for their initiative and guidance in drainage matters. Mr. Johnston states that "three feet is deep enough if the bottom is solid enough to lay tiles on; if not, go deeper."
Without intimating that any different mode of drainage than that adopted, would have been better on Mr. Johnston's farm, we should be unwilling to surrender, even to the opinion of Mr. Johnston and his friends, our conviction that, in general, three-foot drains are too shallow. Mr. Johnston expressly disclaims any experience in draining a proper clay soil. In the Country Gentleman, of June 10th, 1848, he says:
Without suggesting that any other drainage method than the one used on Mr. Johnston's farm would have been better, we are reluctant to give up our belief, even against the views of Mr. Johnston and his friends, that generally, three-foot drains are too shallow. Mr. Johnston clearly states that he has no experience in draining proper clay soil. In the Country Gentleman, from June 10th, 1848, he says:
"In a subsoil that is impervious to water, either by being a red clay, blue clay, or hard-pan, within a foot of the surface, I would recommend farmers to feel their way very cautiously in draining. If tiles and labor were as low here as in Great Britain, we could afford to make drains sixteen feet apart in such land, and then, by loosening the soil, say twenty inches deep, by the subsoil plow, I think such land might be made perfectly dry; but I don't think the time is yet come, considering the cost of tiles and labor, to undertake such an outlay; but still it might pay in the end. I have found only a little of red clay subsoil in draining my farm. I never had any blue clay on my farm, or hard-pan, to trouble me; but I can readily perceive that it must be equally bad to drain as the tenacious red clay. If I were going to purchase another farm, I would look a great deal more to the subsoil than the surface soil. If the subsoil is right, the surface soil, I think, cannot be wrong."
"In an underground layer that doesn’t allow water to pass through, whether it's red clay, blue clay, or hard-pan, within a foot of the surface, I would advise farmers to proceed very carefully with drainage. If the cost of tiles and labor were as low here as it is in Great Britain, we could afford to make drains sixteen feet apart in such land and then, by loosening the soil about twenty inches deep with a subsoil plow, I believe that land could be made completely dry; however, I don't think the time has come yet, given the current costs of tiles and labor, to invest in such a project; but it could still pay off in the end. I have found only a little red clay subsoil while draining my farm. I have never dealt with blue clay or hard-pan on my farm, which has been a relief, but I can easily imagine that it would be just as difficult to drain as the tough red clay. If I were considering buying another farm, I would pay much more attention to the subsoil than the surface soil. If the subsoil is good, I believe the surface soil can’t be bad."
In the same paper, under date of July 8th, Mr. Johnston says, "The only experience I have had in digging into soils, to judge of draining out of this county (Seneca), was in Niagara." He states the result of his observations thus:
In the same paper, dated July 8th, Mr. Johnston says, "The only experience I've had in digging into soils, to assess drainage issues in this county (Seneca), was in Niagara." He summarizes the results of his observations like this:
"A few inches below the surface I found a stiff blue clay for about ten inches deep, and as impervious to water as so much iron. Underneath that blue clay, I found a red clay, apparently impervious to water; but, as water could not get through the blue, I could only guess at that; and, after spending the greater part of the day, with five men digging holes from four to five feet deep, I found I knew no more how such land could be drained, than a man who had never seen a drain dug. I advised the gentleman to try a few experiments, by digging a few ditches, as I laid them out, and plowing as deep as possible with a subsoil plow, but to get no tile until he saw if he could get a run of water. He paid my traveling expenses, treated me very kindly and I have heard nothing from him since.
"A few inches below the surface, I found stiff blue clay about ten inches deep, and it was as waterproof as iron. Beneath that blue clay, I discovered red clay, which also seemed waterproof; however, since water couldn’t get through the blue, I could only speculate about it. After spending most of the day with five men digging holes four to five feet deep, I realized I knew as little about draining such land as someone who had never seen a drain dug. I suggested to the gentleman to try a few experiments by digging some ditches as I showed him and plowing as deep as possible with a subsoil plow, but to hold off on getting any tile until he determined if he could get a flow of water. He covered my travel expenses, treated me very kindly, and I haven't heard from him since."
"Now, if your correspondent's soil and subsoil is similar to that soil I would advise him to feel his way cautiously in draining. Certainly, no man would be fool enough to dig ditches and lay tile, if there is no water to carry off."
"Now, if your contact’s soil and subsoil are similar to that soil, I would advise him to proceed carefully with the draining. Certainly, no one would be foolish enough to dig ditches and lay tile if there isn’t any water to divert."
In the Country Gentleman of Nov. 18th, 1858, we find an interesting statement, by John S. Pettibone, of Manchester, Vermont, partly in reply to the statement of Mr. Johnston.
In the Country Gentleman from November 18th, 1858, there's an intriguing statement by John S. Pettibone from Manchester, Vermont, partially responding to Mr. Johnston's comments.
The experiment by Mr. Pettibone, showing the increased permeability of clay, merely by the passage of water through it, is very interesting. He says, in his letter to the editor:
The experiment by Mr. Pettibone, which demonstrates the increased permeability of clay just from water flowing through it, is really fascinating. He mentions in his letter to the editor:
"When so experienced a drainer as Mr. Johnston expresses an opinion that some soils cannot be drained, it is important we should know what the soil is which cannot be drained. He uses the word stiff blue clay, as descriptive of the soil which cannot be drained. * * *
"When someone as knowledgeable as Mr. Johnston says that some soils can't be drained, it's crucial for us to understand what kind of soil he's referring to. He describes the soil that can't be drained as stiff blue clay. * * *
"I had taken a specimen of what I thought to be stiff blue clay. That clay, when wet, as taken out, would hold water about as well as iron: yet, from experiments I have made, I am confident that such clay soil can be drained, and at much less expense than a hard-pan soil. Water will pass through such clay, and the clay become dry; and after[330] it becomes once dry, water will, I am convinced, readily pass down through such stiff blue clay. The specimen was taken about three feet below the surface, and on a level with a brook which runs through this clay soil. I filled a one hundred-pound nail-keg with clay taken from the same place. It was so wet, that by shaking, it came to a level, and water rose to the top of the clay. I had made holes in the bottom of the keg, and set it up on blocks. After twenty-four hours I came almost to the conclusion Mr. Johnston did, that water would not pass through this clay. This trial was during the hot, dry weather last Summer. After some ten or twelve days the clay appeared to be dry. I then made a basin-like excavation in the top of the clay, and put water in, and the water disappeared rather slowly. I filled the basin with water frequently, and the oftener I filled it, the more readily it passed off. I left it for more than a week, when we had a heavy shower. After the shower I examined the keg, and not a drop of water was to be seen. I then took a chisel and cut a hole six inches down. I took out a piece like the one I dried in the house, and laid that up till it was perfectly dry. There was a plain difference between the appearance of the two pieces. The texture, I should say, was quite different. That through which the water had passed, after it had been dried, was more open and porous. It did not possess so much of the blue cast. In less than one hour after the rain fell, the clay taken six inches from the top of the keg would crumble by rubbing in the hand."
"I collected a sample of what I thought was stiff blue clay. That clay, when wet, held water almost as well as iron. However, based on my experiments, I’m convinced that this type of clay soil can be drained at a much lower cost than a hard-pan soil. Water can move through such clay, drying it out, and once[330] it dries, I’m sure water will easily flow through the stiff blue clay. I took the sample about three feet below the surface, at the same level as a brook running through this clay soil. I filled a one hundred-pound nail keg with clay from that spot. It was so wet that when I shook it, the surface leveled out, and water rose to the top of the clay. I had drilled holes in the bottom of the keg and placed it on blocks. After twenty-four hours, I nearly concluded, like Mr. Johnston, that water wouldn’t pass through this clay. This test was done during last summer's hot, dry weather. After about ten or twelve days, the clay seemed to dry out. I then made a basin-shaped scoop in the top of the clay and added water, which disappeared slowly. I refilled the basin frequently, and the more often I did, the faster the water drained away. I left it for over a week until we had a heavy rain. After the rain, I checked the keg, and not a drop of water was visible. Then I used a chisel to cut a hole six inches down. I took out a piece like the one I dried at home and stored it until it was completely dry. There was a noticeable difference between the two pieces. The texture was quite different; the piece that had allowed water to pass through was more open and porous and didn’t have as much of the blue tint. Less than an hour after the rain, the clay taken six inches from the top of the keg crumbled easily when rubbed in my hand."
When we observe the effect of heat in opening clays to water by cracking, and the effect of the water itself, aided, as it doubtless is, by the action of the air, in rendering the soil permeable, we hardly need feel discouraged if the question rested entirely on this evidence; but when we consider that thousands upon thousands of acres of the stiffest clays have been, in England and Scotland, rescued from utter barrenness by drainage, and made to yield the largest crops, we should regard the question of practicability as settled. The only question left for decision is whether, under all the circumstances of each particular case, the operation of draining our clay lands will be expedient—whether their increased value will pay the expense. It is often objected to deep drains in clays, that it is so far down to the drains that the water cannot readily[331] pass through so large a mass. If we think merely of a drop of rain falling on the surface, and obliged to find its devious way through the mazes of cracks and particles till it gains an outlet at the bottom of four feet of clay, it does seem a discouraging journey for the poor little solitary thing; but there is a more correct view of the matter, which somewhat relieves the difficulty.
When we look at how heat helps clay open up to water by cracking, and how water itself, supported by the air, makes the soil able to absorb moisture, we shouldn’t feel deterred if this was the only evidence available. However, considering that vast areas of dense clay in England and Scotland have been transformed from total barrenness to productive land through drainage, we should see the question of feasibility as resolved. The only remaining question is whether, given the specifics of each case, draining our clay lands will be beneficial—whether the increased value will compensate for the costs. People often criticize deep drains in clay soils, arguing that they are placed so far down that water struggles to move through such a large mass. If we think of a raindrop falling on the surface and having to navigate through cracks and particles to reach the bottom of four feet of clay, it does seem like a challenging journey for that little drop. But there’s a better perspective that slightly eases this concern.
All the water that will run out of the soil has departed; but the soil holds a vast amount still, by attraction. The rain begins to fall; and when the soil is saturated, a portion passes into the drain; but it is, by no means, the water which last fell upon the surface, but that which was next the drain before the rain fell. If you pour water into a tube that is nearly full, the water which will first run from the other end is manifestly not that which you pour in. So the ground is full of little tubes, open at both ends, in which the water is held by attraction. A drop upon the surface drives out a drop at the lower end, into to the drain, and so the process goes on—the drains beginning to run as soon as the rain commences, and ceasing to flow only when the principle of attraction balances the power of gravitation.
All the water that could drain from the soil has already left, but the soil still retains a lot due to attraction. Rain starts to fall, and when the soil is fully soaked, some of the water flows into the drain; however, it’s not the water that just fell on the surface, but rather the water that was closest to the drain before the rain started. If you pour water into a tube that’s almost full, the first water that comes out the other end is clearly not the water you just poured in. Similarly, the ground is filled with tiny tubes, open at both ends, where the water is held by attraction. A drop on the surface pushes out a drop at the lower end into the drain, and this process continues—the drains start to flow as soon as it begins to rain, and they stop flowing only when the force of attraction matches the force of gravity.
PRESSURE OF WATER IN THE SOIL.
In connection with the passage of water through clay soil, it may be appropriate to advert to the question sometimes mooted, whether in a soil filled with water, at four feet depth, there is the same pressure as there would be, at the same depth, in a river or pond. The pressure of fluids on a given area, is, ordinarily, in proportion to their vertical height; and the pressure of a column of water, four feet high, would be sufficient to drive the lower particles into an opening like a drain, with considerable force, and the upper part of such a column would essentially aid the lower part in its downward passage. Does this pressure exist? Mr. Gisborne speaks undoubtingly on this point, thus:[332]
In relation to water passing through clay soil, it's relevant to mention the question that's often raised: whether water in soil at a depth of four feet exerts the same pressure as water at the same depth in a river or pond. The pressure of fluids on a specific area typically depends on their vertical height. For example, the pressure from a four-foot-high column of water would be enough to push the lower particles into a drain with significant force, while the upper part of that column would help the lower part move downward. Does this pressure actually exist? Mr. Gisborne confidently addresses this point, stating:[332]
"We will assume the drain to be four feet deep, and the water-table to be at one foot below the surface of the earth. Every particle of water which lies at three feet below the water-table, has on it the pressure of a column of water three feet high. This pressure will drive the particle in any direction in which it finds no resistance, with a rapidity varying inversely to the friction of the medium through which the column acts. The bottom of our drains will offer no resistance, and into it particles of water will be pushed, in conformity with the rule we have stated; rapidly, if the medium opposes little friction; slowly, if it opposes much. The water so pushed in runs off by the drain, the column of pressure being diminished in proportion to the water which runs off."
"We'll assume the drain is four feet deep, and the water table is one foot below the surface. Every drop of water that’s three feet below the water table is under the pressure of a three-foot-high column of water. This pressure will push the water in any direction where there’s no resistance, moving faster when there’s less friction in the medium and slower when there’s more. The bottom of our drains won’t provide any resistance, so water will be pushed into them according to this principle; quickly if there’s little friction and slowly if there’s a lot. The water that gets pushed in flows out through the drain, and the pressure column decreases in proportion to the amount of water that flows out."
Mr. Thomas Arkell, in a paper read before the Society of Arts, in 1855, says, on this point:
Mr. Thomas Arkell, in a paper presented to the Society of Arts in 1855, states, on this subject:
"The pressure due to a head of water of four or five feet, may be imagined from the force with which water will come through the crevices of a hatch, with that depth of water above it. Now, there is the same pressure of water to enter the vacuum in the pipe-drain, as there is against the hatches, supposing the land to be full to the surface."
"The pressure from a water depth of four or five feet can be understood by the force with which water flows through the cracks of a hatch with that amount of water above it. In the same way, there’s equal pressure of water trying to fill the vacuum in the pipe drain as there is pushing against the hatches, assuming the land is full to the surface."
We do not find any intimation that there is any error in the view advanced by the learned gentleman quoted; and if there is none, we have an explanation of the faculty which water seems to have, of finding its way into drainpipes. Yet, we feel bound to confess, that, aside from authority, we should have supposed that the pressure due to a column of pure water, would be essentially lessened, by the interposition of solid matter between its particles.
We find no indication that there’s any mistake in the perspective put forth by the respected individual quoted; and if that’s the case, we have an explanation for the tendency of water to flow into drainpipes. However, we must admit that, without relying on authority, we would have thought that the pressure created by a column of pure water would be significantly reduced by the presence of solid material between its particles.
CHAPTER XX[333]
EFFECT OF DRAINAGE ON STREAMS AND RIVERS.
Drainage Hastens the Supply to the Streams, and thus Creates Freshets.—Effect of Drainage on Meadows below; on Water Privileges.—Conflict of Manufacturing and Agricultural Interests.—English Opinions and Facts.—Uses of Drainage Water.—Irrigation.—Drainage Water for Stock.—How used by Mr. Mechi.
Drainage Speeds Up the Flow to the Streams, which Creates Freshwater Floods.—Impact of Drainage on Meadows below; on Water Rights.—Conflict Between Manufacturing and Agricultural Interests.—British Views and Facts.—Uses of Drainage Water.—Irrigation.—Drainage Water for Livestock.—How Mr. Mechi Uses It.
The effect of drainage upon streams and rivers, has, perhaps, little to interest merely practical men, in this country, at present; but the time will soon arrive, when mill-owners and land-owners will be compelled to investigate the subject. Men unaccustomed to minute investigation, are slow to appreciate the great effects produced by apparently small causes; and it may seem to many, that the operations of drainage for agriculture, are too insignificant in their details, perceptibly to affect the flow of mill-streams and rivers. A moment's thought will convince the most skeptical, that the thorough-drainage of the wet lands, even of a New England township, must produce sensible effects upon the streams which convey its surplus water toward the sea.
The impact of drainage on streams and rivers may not currently capture the attention of many practical individuals in this country; however, the time will soon come when mill owners and landowners will need to look into the issue. People who aren’t used to detailed analysis often struggle to recognize the significant effects that seemingly minor causes can create; it might seem to many that agricultural drainage methods are too trivial in their specifics to noticeably influence the flow of mill streams and rivers. A moment’s reflection will convince even the most doubtful that thoroughly draining wet lands, even in a New England township, must have noticeable effects on the streams that carry its excess water toward the ocean.
In making investigations to ascertain what quantity of water may be relied upon to supply a reservoir, whether natural or artificial, for the use of a town or city, a survey is first taken of the district of territory which naturally is drained into the reservoir, and thus the number of square miles of surface is ascertained. Then the rain-tables are consulted, and the fall of rain upon the surveyed district[334] is computed. The ascertained proportion of rain-fall, which usually goes off by evaporation, is then deducted, which leaves with sufficient accuracy, the amount of water which flows both upon the surface, and through the soil, to the reservoir. With proper deductions for waste by freshets, when the water will overflow the reservoir, and for other known losses, a reliable estimate is readily made, in advance, of the quantity of water supplied to the reservoir.
To determine how much water can be counted on to supply a reservoir, whether it's natural or man-made, for a town or city, the first step is to survey the area that drains into the reservoir. This helps to find out the total square miles of the land. Next, rainfall data is reviewed to calculate the amount of rain that falls on the surveyed area[334]. The percentage of rainfall that typically evaporates is then subtracted, which gives an accurate estimate of the water that flows into the reservoir, both on the surface and underground. After making necessary adjustments for water that might overflow the reservoir during floods and for any other known losses, a dependable estimate of the water supply for the reservoir can easily be determined in advance.
Now, these reservoirs Nature has placed in all our valleys, in the form of lakes and ponds, and the drainage into them is by natural springs and streams; and the annual amount of the water thus naturally flowing into them may be readily computed, if the area within their head-waters be known. If the earth's surface were, like iron, impervious to water, the rain-water would come in torrents down the hill-sides, and along the gentle declivities, into the streams, creating freshets and inundations in a few hours. But instead of that, the soft showers fall, often on the open, thirsty soil, and so are gradually absorbed. A part of the rain-water is there held, until it returns by evaporation, to the clouds, while a part slowly percolates downward, finding its way into swamps and springy plains, and finally, after days or weeks of wandering, slowly, but surely, finds its outlet in the stream or pond.
Now, Nature has created these reservoirs in all our valleys, taking the form of lakes and ponds, with natural springs and streams feeding into them. The yearly amount of water that flows into these bodies can easily be calculated if we know the area of their watersheds. If the earth's surface were as solid as iron and didn’t absorb water, rain would rush down the hills and along gentle slopes into the streams, causing floods in just a few hours. But instead, gentle rain showers often fall on the dry, thirsty ground and are gradually soaked up. Some of the rainwater is held there until it evaporates back into the clouds, while some seeps down slowly, making its way into swamps and marshy areas, and finally, after days or weeks of traveling, it steadily finds its way into the stream or pond.
If now, this surplus of water, this part which cannot be evaporated, and must therefore, sooner or later, enter the stream or pond, be, by artificial channels, carried directly to its destination, without the delay of filtration through swamps and clay-banks; the effect of rain to raise the streams and ponds, must be more sudden and immediate. Agricultural drains furnish those artificial channels. The flat and mossy swamp, which before retained the water until the Midsummer drought, and then slowly parted[335] with it, by evaporation or gradual filtration, now, by thorough-drainage, in two or three days at most, sends all its surplus water onward to the natural stream. The stagnant clay-beds, which formerly, by slow degrees, allowed the water to filter through them to the wayside ditch, and then to the river, now, by drainage, contribute their proportion, in a few hours, to swell the stream. Thus, evaporation is lessened, and the amount of water which enters the natural channels largely increased; and, what is of more importance, the water which flows from the land is sent at once, after its fall from the heavens, into the streams. This produces upon the mill-streams a two-fold effect; first, to raise sudden freshets to overflow the dams, and sweep away the mills; and, secondly, to dry up their supply in dry seasons, and to diminish their water-power.
If now this excess water, which cannot evaporate and must eventually flow into the stream or pond, is channeled directly to its destination through artificial means, bypassing the delays of filtration through swamps and clay banks, the impact of rain on raising the streams and ponds will be more immediate. Agricultural drains create those artificial channels. The flat, mossy swamp that used to hold the water until the midsummer drought and then slowly released it through evaporation or gradual filtration now, with proper drainage, sends all its excess water to the natural stream in just two or three days. The stagnant clay beds, which once allowed water to seep slowly into the wayside ditch and then to the river, now contribute their share in just a few hours, increasing the stream's flow. As a result, evaporation decreases, and significantly more water enters the natural channels; moreover, the water that runs off the land is immediately directed into the streams after falling from the sky. This causes a two-fold effect on the mill streams: first, it creates sudden floods that overflow the dams and wash away the mills; and second, it reduces their water supply during dry seasons, diminishing their water power.
Upon the low meadows which border the streams, the effects of the drainage of lands above them are various, according to their position. In many cases, it must subject them to inundation by Summer freshets, and must require for their protection, catch-waters and embankments, and large facilities for drainage.
Upon the low meadows next to the streams, the impact of draining the land above them varies based on their location. In many instances, this can lead to flooding from summer rains, necessitating the use of catch-waters, embankments, and extensive drainage systems for their protection.
The effect of drainage upon "water privileges," must inevitably be, to lessen their value, by giving them a sudden surplus, followed by drought, instead of a regular supply of water. Water-power companies and mill-owners are never careless of their interests. Through the patriotic desire to foster home-manufactures, our State legislatures have granted many peculiar privileges to manufacturing corporations. Indeed, all the streams and rivers of New England are chained to labor at their wheels.
The impact of drainage on "water rights" will definitely reduce their value by creating a sudden abundance of water, followed by a lack of it, rather than a steady supply. Water-power companies and mill owners are always vigilant about their interests. Driven by a genuine desire to support local manufacturing, our state legislatures have given various unique privileges to manufacturing companies. In fact, all the streams and rivers in New England are tied to the work at their wheels.
Agriculture has thus far taken care of herself, but is destined soon to come in collision with the chartered privileges of manufactures. Many questions, touching the right of land-owners to change the natural flow of the[336] water, to the injury of mill-owners; many questions touching the right of mill-owners to obstruct the natural course of streams, to the injury of the farmer, will inevitably arise in our Courts. Slowly, and step by step, must the lesser interest of manufactures, recede before the advance of the great fundamental interest of agriculture, until, in process of time, steam, or some yet undiscovered giant power, shall put its hand to the great wheel of the factory and the mill, and the pent-up waters shall subside to their natural banks.
Agriculture has managed to thrive on its own so far, but it's about to face conflict with the established rights of manufacturers. Many issues will come up regarding landowners' rights to alter the natural flow of the[336] water, which could harm mill owners; similarly, questions will arise about mill owners' rights to block the natural flow of streams, affecting farmers. Gradually, the lesser interests of manufacturing must yield to the significant and primary interest of agriculture, until eventually, steam, or some yet-to-be-discovered powerful force, will take control of the factory and mill machinery, and the redirected waters will return to their natural channels.
That these are not mere speculations of our own, may be seen from extracts which will be given from answers returned by distinguished observers of these matters in England and Scotland, to a question proposed to them as to the actual effects produced by extensive drainage. Some diversity of opinion is observable in the different replies, which were made, independently in writing, and so are more valuable.
That these are not just our own speculations can be seen from excerpts provided from responses given by prominent observers in England and Scotland, regarding a question about the actual effects caused by extensive drainage. There's some variation in opinion among the different replies, which were made independently in writing, making them more valuable.
Mr. Smith.—"During dry periods, more particularly in Summer, the water in the streams is greatly lessened by thorough-draining; for there is so great a mass of comparatively dry and absorbent soil to receive the rain, that Summer showers, unless very heavy and continuous, will be entirely absorbed."
Mr. Smith.—"During dry spells, especially in summer, the water in the streams is significantly reduced due to thorough draining; there's such a large amount of relatively dry and absorbent soil that takes in the rain, that summer showers, unless they are very heavy and prolonged, will be completely absorbed."
Mr. Parkes.—"The intention and effect of a complete and systematic under-drainage is the liberation of the water of rain more quickly from the land than if it were not drained; and therefore the natural vents, or rivers, very generally require enlargement or deepening, in order to pass off the drainage water in sufficiently quick time, and so as to avoid flooding lower lands.
Mr. Parkes.—"The goal and result of having a thorough and organized drainage system is to release rainwater from the land faster than it would if the land weren’t drained. Because of this, natural outlets like rivers often need to be widened or deepened to quickly carry away the drainage water, preventing flooding in lower areas."
"The sluggish rivers of the midland and southern counties of England especially, oppose great obstacles to land-drainage, being usually full to the banks, or nearly so, and converted into a series of ponds, by mill-dams erected at a few miles distance below each other; so that, frequently, no effectual drainage of the richest alluvial soil composing the meadows, can be made, without forming embankments, or by pumping, or by resort to other artificial and expensive means.
"The slow rivers in the midland and southern counties of England especially create major challenges for land drainage, as they are usually filled to the brim or close to it, and turned into a series of ponds by mill dams placed a few miles apart. As a result, it's often impossible to effectively drain the fertile alluvial soil in the meadows without building embankments, pumping, or using other artificial and costly methods."
"The greater number of the corn and other water-mills throughout England ought to be demolished, for the advantage of agriculture, and[337] steam-power should to be provided for the millers. I believe that such an arrangement would, in most cases, prove to be economical both to the landholder and the miller.
The majority of corn and other water mills across England should be torn down for the benefit of agriculture, and[337] steam power should be made available to the millers. I think this setup would, in most instances, be cost-effective for both the landowner and the miller.
"Every old authority, and all modern writers on land drainage in England, have condemned water-mills and mill-dams: and if all the rivers of England were surveyed from the sea to their source, the mills upon them valued, the extent of land injured or benefitted by such mill-dams ascertained, and the whole question of advantage or injury done to the land-owner appreciated and appraised, I have little doubt but that the injury done, would be found so greatly to exceed the rental of the mills, deduction being made of the cost of maintaining them, that it would be a measure of national economy, to buy up the mills, and give the millers steam-power."
"Every old authority and all modern writers on land drainage in England have criticized water mills and mill dams. If we surveyed all the rivers in England from the sea to their sources, assessed the value of the mills on them, determined the extent of land harmed or helped by these mill dams, and evaluated the overall impact on landowners, I have no doubt that the damage caused would significantly outweigh the rental income from the mills, after factoring in the maintenance costs. It would be a wise national economic decision to buy the mills and provide the millers with steam power."
Mr. Spooner.—"The effect which extensive drainage produces on the main water-courses of districts, is that of increasing the height of their rise at flood times, and rendering the flow and subsidence more rapid than before. I have repeatedly heard the River Tweed adduced as a striking instance of this fact, and that the change has taken place within the observation of the present generation."
Mr. Spooner.—"The impact of extensive drainage on the main waterways in areas increases their flood levels and makes the flow and decrease faster than before. I've often heard the River Tweed mentioned as a clear example of this, and that the change has happened within our current generation's observation."
Mr. Maccaw.—"It has been observed that, after extensive surface-drainage on the sheepwalks in the higher parts of the country, and when the lower lands were enclosed by ditches, and partially drained for the purposes of cultivation, all rivers flowing therefrom, rise more rapidly after heavy rains or falls of snow, and discharge their surplus waters more quickly, than under former circumstances."
Mr. Maccaw.—"It's been noticed that after extensive surface-drainage on the sheepwalks in the higher areas, and when the lower lands were surrounded by ditches and partially drained for farming, all the rivers flowing from there rise more quickly after heavy rains or snowfalls, and release their excess water faster than before."
Mr. Beattie.—"It renders them more speedily flooded, and to a greater height, and they fall sooner. Rivers are lower in Summer and higher in Winter."
Mr. Beattie.—"It causes them to flood more quickly and to a greater extent, and they recede sooner. Rivers are lower in the summer and higher in the winter."
Mr. Nielson.—"The immediate effect of the drainage of higher lands has often been to inundate the lower levels."
Mr. Nielson.—"The immediate result of draining higher areas has often been to flood the lower levels."
In a prize essay of John Algernon Clarke, speaking of the effect of drainage along the course of the River Nene, in England, he says:
In a prize essay by John Algernon Clarke, discussing the impact of drainage along the River Nene in England, he states:
"The upland farms are delivering their drain-water in much larger quantities, and more immediately after the downfall, than formerly, and swelling to the depth of three to six feet over the 20,000 acres of open ground, which form one vast reservoir for it above and below Peterborough. The Nene used to overflow its banks, to the extreme height, about the third day after rain: the floods now reach the same height in about half that time. Twelve hours' rain will generally cause an overflow of the land, which all lies unembanked from the stream; and where it[338] is already saturated, this takes place in six or even in two hours. Such a quick rise will cause one body of flood-water to extend for forty or fifty miles in succession, with a width varying from a quarter of a mile to a mile; but it stays sometimes for six weeks, or even two months, upon the ground. And those floods come down with an alarming power and velocity—bridges which have stood for a century are washed away, and districts where floods were previously unknown have became liable to their sudden periodical inundations. The land being wholly in meadow, suffers very heavily from the destruction of its hay. So sudden are the inundations, that it frequently happens that hay made in the day has, in the night been found swimming and gone. A public-house sign at Wansford commemorates the locally-famed circumstance of a man who, having fallen asleep on a hay-cock, was carried down the stream by a sudden flood: awakening just under the bridge of that town, and being informed where he was, he demanded, in astonishment, if this were 'Wansford in England.'"
"The upland farms are releasing their drain water in much larger amounts, and more quickly after it rains, than before, flooding an area three to six feet deep over the 20,000 acres of open land that acts as one huge reservoir above and below Peterborough. The Nene used to overflow its banks to full height about three days after rain; now the floods hit the same level in about half that time. Generally, twelve hours of rain can cause the surrounding land, which isn't banked against the stream, to overflow; and if it's already saturated, this can happen in six or even two hours. Such a rapid rise can lead to a stretch of floodwater extending forty to fifty miles, with a width ranging from a quarter mile to a mile; but it often stays for six weeks or even two months. These floods come down with frightening strength and speed—bridges that have stood for a century are swept away, and areas that never experienced floods before are now prone to sudden, regular inundations. The land, being entirely meadows, suffers greatly from the loss of hay. The floods come so suddenly that it's common for hay made during the day to be found floating away by night. A sign at a pub in Wansford recalls the well-known story of a man who fell asleep on a haystack and was carried away by a sudden flood: he woke up just under the town's bridge and, upon being told where he was, asked in disbelief if this was 'Wansford in England.'"
The fact that the floods in that neighborhood now reach their height in half their former time, in consequence of the drainage of the "upland farms," is very significant.
The fact that the floods in that neighborhood now peak in half the time they used to, because of the drainage of the "upland farms," is very significant.
Mr. Denton thus speaks upon the same point, though his immediate subject was that of compulsory outfalls.
Mr. Denton is addressing the same issue, even though his main topic was about mandatory outfalls.
"Although the quantity of land drained was small, in comparison to that which remained to be drained, the water which was discharged by the drainage already effected found its way so rapidly to the outfalls, that the consequences were becoming more and more injurious every day. The millers were now suffering from two causes. At times of excess, after a considerable fall of rain, and when the miller was injuriously overloaded, the excess was increased by the rapidity with which the under-drains discharged themselves; and as the quantity of water thus discharged, must necessarily lessen the subsequent supply, the period of drought was advanced in a corresponding degree. As the millers already saw this, and were anticipating increasing losses, they would join in finding a substitute for water-power upon fair terms."
"Even though the amount of land that was drained was small compared to what still needed to be drained, the water that was discharged from the drainage that had already taken place flowed so quickly to the outlets that the negative effects were getting worse every day. The millers were now facing two problems. During heavy rainfall, when the mill was overwhelmed and operating beyond capacity, the excess water increased because of how fast the under-drains functioned. Since the volume of water that was discharged would naturally reduce the available supply later on, the drought period was pushed forward as a result. With the millers already realizing this and expecting greater losses, they would work together to find a reasonable alternative to water power."
It is not supposed, that any considerable practical effects of drainage, upon the streams of this country, have been observed. A treatise, however, upon the general subject of Drainage, which should omit a point like this, which must, before many years, attract serious attention, would be quite incomplete. Whether the effect of a system of[339] thorough-drainage make for or against the interest of mill and meadow owners on the lower parts of streams, should have no influence over those who design only to present the truth, in all its varied aspects.
It isn't believed that any significant practical effects of drainage on the streams in this country have been noticed. However, a discussion on the general topic of drainage that leaves out an issue like this, which will definitely draw serious attention in a few years, would be lacking. Whether a thorough-drainage system benefits or harms the interests of mill and meadow owners in the lower parts of streams shouldn't affect those who aim to present the truth in all its various forms.
As some compensation for the evils which may fall upon lands at a lower level, by drainage of uplands, it may be interesting to notice briefly in this place, some of the uses to which drainage-water has been applied, for the advantage of lower lands. In many cases, in Great Britain, the water of drainage has been preserved in reservoirs, or artificial ponds, and applied for the irrigation of water meadows; and as is suggested by Lieut. Maury, in a letter quoted in our introductory chapter, the same may, in many localities, be done in this country, and thus our crops of grass be often tripled, on our low meadows. In many cases, water from deep drains, will furnish the most convenient supply for barn yards and pastures. It is usually sufficiently pure and cool in Summer, and is preferred by cattle to the water of running streams.
To offset the issues that might arise for lower-lying lands from draining uplands, it's worth noting some of the ways drainage water has been used for the benefit of these lands. In many parts of Great Britain, drainage water has been collected in reservoirs or artificial ponds and used to irrigate water meadows. As pointed out by Lieut. Maury in a letter mentioned in our introductory chapter, this could also be done in many areas of this country, potentially tripling our grass crops on low meadows. Additionally, water from deep drains often provides the most convenient source for barnyards and pastures. It's usually quite pure and cool in the summer, and cattle generally prefer it over water from running streams.
On Mr. Mechi's farm at Tiptree Hall, in England, we observed a large cistern, in which all the manure necessary for the highest culture of 170 acres of land, is liquified, and from which it is pumped out by a steam engine, over the farm. All the water, which supplies the cistern, is collected from tile drains on the farm, where there had before been no running water.
On Mr. Mechi's farm at Tiptree Hall in England, we saw a large cistern where all the manure needed for cultivating 170 acres of land is liquefied. This liquid manure is pumped out across the farm using a steam engine. All the water that fills the cistern is collected from tile drains on the farm, where there used to be no running water.
CHAPTER XXI[340]
LEGISLATION—DRAINAGE COMPANIES.
England protects her Farmers.—Meadows ruined by Corporation dams.—Old Mills often Nuisances.—Factory Reservoirs.—Flowage extends above level of Dam.—Rye and Derwent Drainage.—Give Steam for Water-Power.—Right to Drain through land of others.—Right to natural flow of Water.—Laws of Mass.—Right to Flow; why not to Drain?—Land-drainage Companies in England.—Lincolnshire Fens.—Government Loans for Drainage.
England protects her farmers. Meadows destroyed by corporation dams. Old mills are often nuisances. Factory reservoirs. Flooding extends above the level of the dam. Rye and Derwent drainage. Provide steam for water power. Right to drain through other people's land. Right to the natural flow of water. Laws of Massachusetts. Right to flow; why not to drain? Land drainage companies in England. Lincolnshire Fens. Government loans for drainage.
Nothing more clearly shows the universal interest and confidence of the people of Great Britain, in the operation of land-drainage, than the acts of Parliament in relation to the subject. The conservatism of England, in the view of an American, is striking. She never takes a step till she is sure she is right. Justly proud of her position among the nations, she deems change an unsafe experiment, and what has been, much safer than what might be. Vested rights are sacred in England, and especially rights in lands, which are emphatically real estate there.
Nothing more clearly shows the universal interest and confidence of the people of Great Britain in land drainage than the acts of Parliament on the subject. The conservatism of England is quite striking from an American perspective. She never takes a step until she is certain she is right. Proud of her standing among nations, she sees change as a risky experiment, and what exists is much safer than what could be. Vested rights are sacred in England, especially rights related to land, which is emphasized as real estate there.
Such are the sentiments of the people, and such the sentiments of their representatives and exponents, the Lords and Commons.
Such are the feelings of the people, and such are the feelings of their representatives and spokespeople, the Lords and Commons.
Yet England has been so impressed with the importance of improving the condition of the people, of increasing the wealth of the nation, of enriching both tenant and landlord, by draining the land, that the history of her legislation, in aid of such operations, affords a lesson of progress even to fast Young America. Powers have been granted, by which encumbered estates may be charged with the expenses of drainage, so that remainder-men and reversioners, without their consent, shall be compelled to contribute to present improvements; so that careless or obstinate adjacent proprietors shall be compelled to keep open their ditches for outfalls to their neighbor's drains; so that mill-dams, and other obstructions to the natural flow of the water, may be removed for the benefit of agriculture; and, finally, the Government has itself[341] furnished funds, by way of loans, of millions of pounds, in aid of improvements of this character.
Yet England has recognized the importance of improving people's lives, boosting the nation's wealth, and benefiting both tenants and landlords by draining the land. The history of its legislation to support these initiatives serves as a lesson in progress even for fast-paced Young America. Powers have been granted that allow encumbered estates to be charged for drainage expenses, so that remainder-men and reversioners can't refuse to contribute to current improvements; careless or stubborn nearby property owners must keep their ditches open for their neighbors' drains; mill-dams and other barriers to the natural water flow can be removed for agricultural benefit; and finally, the Government has itself[341] provided millions of pounds in loans to support such improvements.
In America, where private individual right is usually compelled to yield to the good of the whole, and where selfishness and obstinacy do not long stand in the pathway of progress, obstructing manifest improvement in the condition of the people; we are yet far behind England in legal facilities for promoting the improvement of land culture. This is because the attention of the public has not been particularly called to the subject.
In America, where individual rights often have to give way to the greater good, and where selfishness and stubbornness don't usually block progress and obvious improvements for everyone, we still lag behind England in legal options for enhancing land cultivation. This is mainly because the public hasn’t been especially focused on this issue.
Manufacturing corporations are created by special acts of legislation. In many States, rights to flow, and ruin, by inundation, most valuable lands along the course of rivers, and by the banks of ponds and lakes, to aid the water-power of mills, are granted to companies, and the land-owner is compelled to part with his meadows for such compensation as a committee or jury shall assess.
Manufacturing companies are established through specific laws. In many states, they are given rights to control the flow of water and cause flooding that can damage valuable lands along rivers, as well as around ponds and lakes, to support the water power needed for mills. As a result, landowners are forced to give up their meadows for whatever compensation a committee or jury decides.
In almost every town in New England there are hundreds, and often thousands, of acres of lands, that might be most productive to the farmer; overflowed half the year with water, to drive some old saw-mill, or grist-mill, or cotton-mill, which has not made a dividend, or paid expenses, for a quarter of a century. The whole water-power, which, perhaps, ruins for cultivation a thousand acres of fertile land, and divides and breaks up farms, by creating little creeks and swamps throughout all the neighboring valleys, is not worth, and would not be assessed, by impartial men, at one thousand dollars. Yet, though there is power to take the farmer's land for the benefit of manufacturers, there is no power to take down the company's dam for the benefit of agriculture. An old saw-mill, which can only run a few days in a Spring freshet, often swamps a half-township of land, because somebody's great-grandfather had a prescriptive right to flow, when lands were of no value, and saw-mills were a public blessing.
In almost every town in New England, there are hundreds, and often thousands, of acres of land that could be highly productive for farmers. These lands are flooded for half the year to power some old sawmill, gristmill, or cotton mill that hasn’t turned a profit or even covered its costs in a quarter of a century. The entire water power that might ruin a thousand acres of fertile land and disrupt farms by creating little creeks and swamps throughout the neighboring valleys isn't worth, and wouldn’t be assessed by unbiased individuals, at even one thousand dollars. Yet, while there’s authority to take a farmer's land for the benefit of manufacturers, there’s no power to take down the company’s dam for agricultural benefit. An old sawmill that can only operate for a few days during spring floods often inundates half a township of land because someone’s great-grandfather had a legal right to flood when the lands were worthless, and sawmills were seen as a public good.
There are numerous cases, within our own knowledge, where the very land overflowed and ruined by some incorporated company, would, if allowed to produce its natural growth of timber and wood, furnish ten times the fuel necessary to supply steam-engines, to propel the machinery carried by the water-power.
There are many instances that we know of where the land, damaged and ruined by some company, would, if it were allowed to grow its natural timber and wood, provide ten times the fuel needed to power the steam engines that run the machinery using water power.
Not satisfied with obstructing the streams in their course, the larger companies are, of late, making use of the interior lakes, fifty or a hundred miles inland, as reservoirs, to keep back water for the use of the mills in the summer droughts. Thus are thousands of acres of land drowned, and rendered worse than useless; for the water is kept up till Midsummer, and drawn off when a dog-day climate is just ready to[342] convert the rich and slimy sediment of the pond into pestilential vapors. These waters, too, controlled by the mill-owners, are thus let down in floods, in Midsummer, to overflow the meadows and corn-fields of the farmer, or the intervals and bottom-lands below.
Not content with just blocking the streams, the larger companies are now using the inland lakes, fifty or a hundred miles away, as reservoirs to store water for the mills during summer droughts. As a result, thousands of acres of land are flooded and made worse than useless; the water is held back until Midsummer and released just when the hot summer days are ready to turn the rich, slimy sediment of the pond into toxic fumes. These waters, controlled by the mill owners, are then released in floods during Midsummer, overflowing the meadows and cornfields of the farmers, or the lowlands and bottom-lands below.[342]
Now, while we would never advocate any attack upon the rights of mill-owners, or ask them to sacrifice their interests to those of agriculture, it surely is proper to call attention to the injury which the productive capacity of the soil is suffering, by the flooding of our best tracts, in sections of country where land is most valuable. Could not mill-owners, in many instances, adopt steam instead of water-power, and becoming land-draining companies, instead of land-drowning companies; at least, let Nature have free course with her gently-flowing rivers, and allow the promise to be fulfilled, that the earth shall be no more cursed with a flood.
Now, while we would never support any attack on the rights of mill owners or ask them to sacrifice their interests for those of agriculture, it’s certainly important to point out the damage being done to the productivity of the soil due to the flooding of our best areas, particularly in regions where land is most valuable. Could mill owners, in many cases, switch to steam power instead of water power, and become land-draining companies instead of land-drowning companies? At the very least, let Nature take its course with her gently flowing rivers and allow the promise to be kept that the earth will no longer be plagued by floods.
We would ask for the land-owner, simply equality of rights with the mill-owner. If a legislature may grant the right to flow lands, against the will of the owner, to promote manufactures, the same legislature may surely grant the right, upon proper occasion, to remove dams, and other obstructions to our streams, to promote agriculture. The rights of mill-owners are no more sacred than those of land-owners; and the interests of manufactures are, surely, no more important than those of agriculture.
We would ask for the landowner to have equal rights with the mill owner. If a legislature can give the right to flood land against the owner's wishes to promote manufacturing, then that same legislature can also grant the right, when appropriate, to remove dams and other obstacles in our streams to support agriculture. The rights of mill owners are no more sacred than those of landowners, and the interests of manufacturing are certainly no more important than those of agriculture.
We would not advocate much interference with private rights. In some of the States, no special privileges have been conferred upon water-power companies. They have been left to procure their rights of flowage, by private contract with the land-owners; and in such States, probably, the legislatures would be as slow to interfere with rights of flowage, as with other rights. Yet, there are cases where, for the preservation of the health of the community, and for the general convenience, governments have everywhere exercised the power of interfering with private property, and limiting the control of the owners. To preserve the public health, we abate as nuisances, by process of law, slaughter-houses, and other establishments offensive to health and comfort, and we provide, by compulsory assessments upon land-owners, for sewerage, for side-walks, and the like, in our cities.
We wouldn't support a lot of interference with private rights. In some states, water-power companies haven't been given any special privileges. They've had to secure their water rights by making private agreements with landowners; in those states, the legislatures are likely to be just as hesitant to interfere with water rights as they are with other rights. However, there are situations where, to protect the health of the community and for general convenience, governments have always exercised their power to interfere with private property and limit the control that owners have. To protect public health, we eliminate nuisances through legal action, like slaughterhouses and other businesses that are harmful to health and comfort, and we provide for sewer systems, sidewalks, and similar needs in our cities through mandatory assessments on landowners.
Everywhere, for the public good, we take private property for highways, upon just compensation, and the property of corporations is thus taken, like that of individuals.
Everywhere, for the public good, we take private property for highways, with fair compensation, and the property of corporations is taken just like that of individuals.
Again, we compel adjacent owners to fence their lands, and maintain their proportion of division fences of the legal height, and we elect fence viewers, with power to adjust equitably, the expenses of such[343] fences. We assess bachelors and maidens, in most States, for the construction of schoolhouses, and the education of the children of others, and, in various ways, compel each member of society to contribute to the common welfare.
Again, we require neighboring property owners to build and maintain their share of boundary fences at the legal height, and we appoint fence viewers who have the authority to fairly manage the costs associated with those[343] fences. In most states, we impose a fee on single individuals for the building of schoolhouses and funding the education of other people's children, and in various ways, we make sure that everyone in society contributes to the common good.
How far it may be competent, for a State legislature to provide for, or assist in, the drainage of extensive and unhealthy marshes; or how far individual owners should be compelled to contribute to a common improvement of their lands; or how far, and in what cases, one land-owner should be authorized to enter upon land of another, to secure or maintain the best use of his own land—these are questions which it is unnecessary for us to attempt to determine. It is well that they should be suggested, because they will, at no distant day, engage much attention. It is well, too, that the steps which conservative England has thought it proper to take in this direction, should be understood, that we may the better determine whether any, and if any, what course our States may safely take, to aid the great and leading interest of our country.
How appropriate it is for a state legislature to manage or help with the drainage of large, unhealthy marshes; or how far individual landowners should be required to contribute to a collective improvement of their properties; or under what circumstances one landowner should be allowed to access another's land to secure or enhance the use of their own property—these are questions we don’t need to settle right now. It's important that these issues are raised because they will soon capture a lot of attention. It's also beneficial to understand the measures that conservative England has deemed necessary in this regard, so we can better decide if, and if so, what actions our states can safely take to support the major interests of our country.
The swamps and stagnant meadows along our small streams and our rivers, which are taken from the farmer, by flowage, for the benefit of mills, are often, in New England, the most fertile part of the townships—equal to the bottom lands of the West; and they are right by the doors of young men, who leave their homes with regret, because the rich land of far-off new States offers temptations, which their native soil cannot present.
The swamps and still meadows along our small streams and rivers, which are flooded for the benefit of mills, are often, in New England, the most fertile parts of the towns—comparable to the bottomlands of the West. They are just outside the doors of young men, who leave their homes reluctantly because the fertile land of distant new states offers temptations that their own soil cannot match.
It is certainly of great importance to the old States, to inquire into these matters, and set proper bounds to the use of streams for water-powers. The associated wealth and influence of manufacturers, is always more powerful than the individual efforts of the land-owners.
It is definitely important for the old States to look into these issues and establish appropriate limits on the use of rivers for water power. The combined wealth and influence of manufacturers is always stronger than the individual efforts of landowners.
Reservoirs are always growing larger, and dams continually grow higher and tighter. The water, by little and little, creeps insidiously on to, and into, the meadows far above the obstruction, and the land-owner must often elect between submission to this aggression, and a tedious law-suit with a powerful adversary. The evil of obstructions to streams and rivers, is by no means limited to the land visibly flowed, nor to land at the level of the dam. Running water is never level, or it could not flow; and in crooked streams, which flow through meadows, obstructed by grass and bushes, the water raised by a dam, often stands many feet higher, at a mile or two back, than at the dam. It is extremely difficult to set limits to the effect of such a flowage. Water is flowed into the subsoil, or rather is prevented from running out; the natural drainage of the country is prevented; and land which might well[344] be drained artificially, were the stream not obstructed, is found to lie so near the level, as to be deprived of the requisite fall by back water, or the sluggish current occasioned by the dam.
Reservoirs are always getting bigger, and dams keep getting taller and tighter. Little by little, the water creepily encroaches onto and into the meadows far above the obstruction, forcing landowners to choose between putting up with this issue or engaging in a long and challenging lawsuit against a powerful opponent. The problems caused by blocks to streams and rivers aren’t just limited to the land that is visibly flooded or land at the level of the dam. Running water is never flat, or it wouldn't flow; in winding streams that pass through meadows and are obstructed by grass and bushes, the water raised by a dam can often be many feet higher a mile or two upstream than it is at the dam. It's incredibly hard to determine the limits of such flooding. Water seeps into the subsoil, or rather, it gets trapped from flowing out; the natural drainage of the area is blocked; and land that could easily be drained artificially, if the stream weren't obstructed, ends up sitting so close to the level that it can’t achieve the necessary drop because of backwater or the slow current created by the dam.
These obstructions to drainage have become subjects of much attention, and of legislative intervention in various forms in England, and some of the facts elicited in their investigations are very instructive.
These drainage blockages have attracted a lot of attention and led to various legislative actions in England, and some of the findings from their investigations are quite enlightening.
In a discussion before the Society of Arts, in 1855, in which many gentlemen, experienced in drainage, took a part, this subject of obstruction by mill-dams came up.
In a discussion before the Society of Arts in 1855, where many gentlemen experienced in drainage participated, the topic of obstruction caused by mill-dams was raised.
Mr. G. Donaldson said he had been much engaged in works of land-drainage, and that, in many instances, great difficulties were experienced in obtaining outfalls, owing to the water rights, on the course of rivers for mill-power, &c.
Mr. G. Donaldson said he had been heavily involved in land-drainage projects and that, in many cases, they faced significant challenges in securing outfalls due to water rights related to rivers used for mill power, etc.
Mr. R. Grantham spoke of the necessity of further legislation, "so as to give power to lower bridges and culverts, under public roads, and straighten and deepen rivers and streams." But, he said, authority was wanting, above all, "for the removal of mills, dams, and other obstructions in rivers, which, in many cases, did incalculable injury, many times exceeding the value of the mills, by keeping up the level of rivers, and rendering it totally impossible to drain the adjoining lands."
Mr. R. Grantham talked about the need for more legislation, "to give the authority to lower bridges and culverts under public roads, and to straighten and deepen rivers and streams." But, he said, what was really needed was the power "to remove mills, dams, and other barriers in rivers, which, in many cases, caused tremendous damage, often far greater than the value of the mills, by raising the river levels and making it completely impossible to drain the nearby lands."
Mr. R. F. Davis said, "If they were to go into the midland districts, they would see great injury done, from damming the water for mills."
Mr. R. F. Davis said, "If they went into the midland areas, they would see a lot of damage caused by damming the water for mills."
In Scotland, the same difficulty has arisen. "In many parts of this country," says a Scottish writer, "small lochs (lakes) and dams are kept up, for the sake of mills, under old tenures, which, if drained, the land gained by that operation, would, in many instances, be worth ten times the rent of such mills."
In Scotland, the same issue has come up. "In many areas of this country," says a Scottish writer, "small lochs (lakes) and dams are maintained for the mills under old agreements, and if they were drained, the land gained from that would often be worth ten times the rent of those mills."
In the case of the Rye and Derwent Drainage, an account of which is found in the 14th Vol. of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, a plan of compensation was adopted, where it became necessary to remove dams and other obstructions, which is worthy of attention. The Commissioners under the Act of 1846, removed the mill-wheels, and substituted steam-engines corresponding to the power actually used by the mills, compensating, also, the proprietors for inconvenience, and the future additional expensiveness of the new power.
In the Rye and Derwent Drainage case, detailed in Volume 14 of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, a compensation plan was implemented that involved removing dams and other barriers, which deserves attention. The Commissioners under the 1846 Act took out the mill-wheels and replaced them with steam engines that matched the actual power used by the mills. They also compensated the owners for the inconvenience and the future higher costs associated with the new power.
"The claims of a short canal navigation, two fisheries, and tenants' damages through derangement of business during the alterations, were disposed of without much outlay; and the pecuniary advantages of the work are apparent from the fact, that a single flood, such as frequently[345] overflowed the land, has been known to do more damage, if fairly valued in money, than the whole sum expended under the act."
"The claims for a short canal navigation, two fisheries, and tenant damages from business disruptions during the construction were handled without much expense. The financial benefits of the project are clear, given that a single flood, which often[345] overflowed the land, has been known to cause more damage, if properly valued in money, than the total amount spent on the project."
Under this act, it became necessary for the Commissioners to estimate the comparative cost of steam and water-power, in order to carry out their idea of giving to the mill-owners a steam-power equivalent to their water-power.
Under this act, it became essential for the Commissioners to evaluate the relative cost of steam and water power to implement their plan of providing mill owners with a steam power equivalent to their water power.
"As the greater part of their water-power was employed on corn and flour-mills, upon these the calculations were chiefly based. It was generally admitted to be very near the truth, that to turn a pair of flour-mill stones properly, requires a power equal to that of two-and-a-half horses, or on an average, twenty horses' power, to turn and work a mill of eight-pairs of stones, and that the total cost of a twenty-horse steam-engine, with all its appliances, would be $5,000, or $250 per horse power."
"As most of their water power was used for corn and flour mills, the calculations mostly relied on these. It was widely accepted that to operate a pair of flour mill stones correctly requires a power equivalent to two and a half horses, or on average, twenty horsepower to run and operate a mill with eight pairs of stones. The total cost of a twenty-horsepower steam engine, including all its equipment, would be $5,000, or $250 per horsepower."
Calculations for the maintenance of the steam-power are also given; but this depends so much on local circumstances, that English estimates would be of little value to us.
Calculations for maintaining the steam power are also provided; however, this relies heavily on local conditions, so English estimates wouldn't be very useful to us.
The arrangements in this case with the mill-owners, were made by contract, and not by force of any arbitrary power, and the success of the enterprise, in the drainage of the lands, the prevention of damage by floods, especially in hay and harvest-time, and in the improvement of the health of vegetation, as well as of man and animals, is said to be strikingly manifest.
The agreements in this situation with the mill owners were established through a contract, not through any kind of coercive authority. The success of the project in draining the land, preventing flood damage—especially during hay and harvest season—and improving the health of plants, people, and animals is said to be clearly evident.
This act provides for a "water-bailiff," whose duty it is to inspect the rivers, streams, water-courses, &c., and enforce the due maintenance of the banks, and the uninterrupted discharge of the waters at all times.
This act establishes a "water-bailiff," whose responsibility is to monitor the rivers, streams, watercourses, etc., and ensure the proper upkeep of the banks, as well as the continuous flow of water at all times.
COMPULSORY OUTFALLS.
It often happens, especially in New England, where farms are small, and the country is broken, that an owner of valuable lands overcharged with water, perhaps a swamp or low meadow, or perhaps a field of upland, lying nearly level, desires to drain his tract, but cannot find sufficient fall, without going upon the land of owners below. These adjacent owners may not appreciate the advantages of drainage; or their lands may not require it; or, what is not unusual, they may from various motives, good and evil, refuse to allow their lands to be meddled with.
It often happens, especially in New England, where farms are small and the terrain is uneven, that an owner of valuable land, like a swamp or low meadow, or maybe a nearly level field, wants to drain their property but can't find enough slope without going onto the land of the owners below. These neighboring owners might not see the benefits of drainage; their land might not need it; or, as is not uncommon, they might refuse to let anyone interfere with their land for various reasons, both good and bad.
Now, without desiring to be understood as speaking judicially, we know of no authority of law by which a land-owner may enter upon the territory of his neighbor for the purpose of draining his own land, and perhaps no such power should ever be conferred. All owners upon streams, great and small, have however, the right to the natural flow[346] of the water, both above and below. Their neighbors below cannot obstruct a stream so as to flow back the water upon, or into, the land above; and where artificial water-courses, as ditches and drains have long been opened, the presumption would be that all persons benefitted by them, have the right to have them kept open.
Now, without wanting to be seen as making a legal judgment, we don’t know of any legal authority that allows a landowner to enter their neighbor's property to drain their own land, and perhaps such power should never be granted. All property owners along streams, big or small, have the right to the natural flow[346] of water, both upstream and downstream. The neighbors downstream cannot block a stream in a way that causes water to flow back onto the land upstream; and where artificial waterways, like ditches and drains, have been in use for a long time, there’s an assumption that everyone benefiting from them has the right to keep them maintained.
Parliament is held to be omnipotent, and in the act of 1847, known as Lord Lincoln's Act, its power is well illustrated, as is also the determination of the British nation that no trifling impediments shall hinder the progress of the great work of draining lands for agriculture. The act, in effect, authorizes any person interested in draining his lands, to clear a passage through all obstructions, wherever it would be worth the expense of works and compensation.
Parliament is considered all-powerful, and the 1847 law, known as Lord Lincoln's Act, clearly demonstrates this power, as well as the British people's resolve that no minor obstacles should block the progress of essential agricultural land drainage. Essentially, the law allows anyone interested in draining their land to create a pathway through any obstructions, wherever it justifies the costs of the work and compensation.
Its general provisions may be found in the 15th Vol. of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society.
Its general provisions can be found in the 15th Vol. of the Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society.
It is not the province of the author, to decide what may properly be done within the authority of different States, in aid of public or private drainage enterprises. The State Legislatures are not, like Parliament, omnipotent. They are limited by their written constitutions. Perhaps no better criterion of power, with respect to compelling contribution, by persons benefitted, to the cost of drainage, and with interfering with individual rights, for public or private advantage, can be found, than the exercise of power in the cases of fences and of flowage.
It’s not the author’s job to determine what actions can properly be taken by different States to support public or private drainage projects. State Legislatures are not all-powerful like Parliament. They are constrained by their written constitutions. There might not be a better standard for assessing the power to require contributions from those benefiting from drainage and for interfering with individual rights for public or private benefit, than how power is exercised in cases of fences and flooding.
If we may lawfully compel a person to fence his land, to exclude the cattle of other persons, or, if he neglect to fence, subject him to their depredations, without indemnity, as is done in many States; or if we may compel him to contribute to the erection of division fences, of a given height, though he has no animal in the world to be shut in or out of his field, there would seem to be equal reason, in compelling him to dig half a division ditch for the benefit of himself and neighbor.
If we can legally force someone to build a fence around their property to keep out other people's livestock, or if we can allow those animals to damage their land without compensation if they fail to put up a fence, as happens in many states; or if we can require them to help pay for division fences of a certain height, even if they have no animals to keep in or out, then it would make just as much sense to make them dig half of a division ditch for the benefit of themselves and their neighbor.
If, again, as we have already hinted, the Legislature may authorize a corporation to flow and inundate the land of an unwilling citizen, to raise a water-power for a cotton-mill, it must be a nice discrimination of powers, that prohibits the same Legislature from authorizing the entry into lands of a protesting mill-owner, or of an unknown or cross-grained proprietor, to open an outlet for a valuable, health-giving system of drainage.
If, as we've already mentioned, the Legislature can allow a corporation to flood the land of an unwilling citizen to create water power for a cotton mill, then it seems tricky for that same Legislature to prevent access to the land of a disagreeing mill owner or an unknown or difficult landowner to create an outlet for a valuable, health-promoting drainage system.
In the valuable treatise of Dr. Warder, of Cincinnati, recently published in New York, upon Hedges and Evergreens, an abstract is given of the statutes of most of our States, upon the subject of fences, and we know of no other book, in which so good an idea of the legislation on this subject, can be so readily obtained.[347]
In the valuable writing by Dr. Warder from Cincinnati, recently published in New York, on Hedges and Evergreens, there’s a summary of the laws from most of our states regarding fences, and we aren't aware of any other book where such a clear understanding of the legislation on this topic can be easily accessed.[347]
By the statutes of Massachusetts, any person may erect and maintain a water-mill, and dam to raise water for working it, upon and across any stream that is not navigable, provided he does not interfere with existing mills. Any person whose land is overflowed, may, on complaint, have a trial and a verdict of a jury; which may fix the height of the dam, decide whether it shall be left open any part of the year, and fix compensation, either annual or in gross, for the injury. All other remedies for such flowage are taken away, and thus the land of the owner may be converted into a mill-pond against his consent.
According to Massachusetts law, anyone can build and operate a water mill and dam to raise water to run it on any non-navigable stream, as long as they don’t interfere with existing mills. If someone's land gets flooded, they can file a complaint to have a trial and a jury will make a decision. The jury can determine the height of the dam, decide if it should be left open at any time of the year, and set compensation, either yearly or as a one-time payment, for the damage. All other ways to address this flooding are removed, allowing the owner’s land to be changed into a mill pond without their consent.
We find nothing in the Massachusetts statutes which gives to land-owners, desirous of improving their wet lands, any power to interfere in any way with the rights of mill-owners, for the drainage of lands. The statutes of the Commonwealth, however, make liberal and stringent provisions, for compelling unwilling owners to contribute to the drainage of wet lands.
We don't see anything in the Massachusetts laws that allows landowners who want to improve their wet lands to interfere with the rights of mill owners regarding land drainage. However, the laws of the Commonwealth do have strong and generous provisions to require unwilling owners to contribute to the drainage of wet lands.
For the convenience of those who may be desirous of procuring legislation on this subject, we will give a brief abstract of the leading statute of Massachusetts regulating this matter. It may be found in Chapter 115 of the Revised Statutes, of 1836. The first Section explains the general object.
For the convenience of those who may want to obtain legislation on this topic, we will provide a brief summary of the main law of Massachusetts that addresses this issue. It can be found in Chapter 115 of the Revised Statutes from 1836. The first section outlines the general purpose.
When any meadow, swamp, marsh, beach, or other low land, shall be held by several proprietors, and it shall be necessary or useful to drain or flow the same, or to remove obstructions in rivers or streams leading therefrom, such improvements may be effected, under the direction of Commissioners, in the manner provided in this chapter.
When any meadow, swamp, marsh, beach, or other low-lying land is owned by multiple people, and it becomes necessary or beneficial to drain or flood the area, or to clear obstacles in the rivers or streams flowing from it, these improvements can be carried out under the guidance of Commissioners, as outlined in this chapter.
The statute provides that the proprietors, or a greater part of them in interest, may apply, by petition, to the Court of Common Pleas, setting forth the proposed improvements, and for notice to the proprietors who do not join in the petition, and for a hearing. The court may then appoint three, five, or seven commissioners to cause the improvements to be effected. The commissioners are authorized to cause dams or dikes to be erected on the premises, at such places, and in such manner as they shall direct; and may order the land to be flowed thereby, for such periods of each year as they shall think most beneficial, and also cause ditches to be opened on the premises, and obstructions in any rivers or streams leading therefrom to be removed.
The law states that the property owners, or a majority of them, can file a petition with the Court of Common Pleas to outline the proposed improvements. They can also request notice to be sent to those property owners who don't sign the petition and ask for a hearing. The court may then appoint three, five, or seven commissioners to oversee the implementation of the improvements. These commissioners are allowed to have dams or levees built on the property wherever and however they direct; they can also decide how long each year the land should be flooded, and they can order ditches to be dug on the property and ensure that any blockages in rivers or streams leading away from it are removed.
Provision is made for assessment of the expenses of the improvements, upon all the proprietors, according to the benefit each will derive from it, and for the collection of the amount assessed.
Provision is made for evaluating the costs of the improvements for all the property owners, based on the benefits each will receive from it, and for collecting the assessed amount.
"When the commissioners shall find it necessary or expedient to reduce or raise the waters, for the purpose of obtaining a view of the premises, or for the more convenient or expeditious removal of obstructions[348] therein, they may open the flood-gates of any mill, or make other needful passages through or round the dam thereof or erect a temporary dam on the land of any person, who is not a party to the proceedings, and may maintain such dam, or such passages for the water, as long as shall be necessary for the purposes aforesaid."
"When the commissioners find it necessary or helpful to lower or raise the water levels to get a better view of the property or to more easily remove obstacles[348] in the way, they can open the floodgates of any mill, create other needed routes through or around the dam, or build a temporary dam on the property of anyone who isn’t involved in the proceedings. They can keep that dam or those water passages in place for as long as needed for those purposes."
Provision is made for previous notice to persons who are not parties, and for compensation to them for injuries occasioned by the interference, and for appeal to the courts.
Provision is made for prior notice to individuals who are not parties, along with compensation for any injuries caused by the interference, and the ability to appeal to the courts.
This statute gives, by no means, the powers necessary to compel contribution to all necessary drainage, because, first, it is limited in its application to "meadow, swamp, marsh, beach, or other low land." The word meadow, in New England, is used in its original sense of flat and wet land. Secondly, the statute seems to give no authority to open permanent ditches on the land of others than the owners of such low land, although it provides for temporary passages for the purposes of "obtaining a view of the premises, or for the more convenient or expeditious removal of obstructions therein"—the word "therein" referring to the "premises" under improvement, so that there is no provision for outfalls, under this statute, except through natural streams.
This statute does not provide the necessary powers to require contributions for all necessary drainage. First, its application is limited to "meadow, swamp, marsh, beach, or other low land." In New England, the term meadow refers to flat and wet land in its original meaning. Second, the statute does not seem to grant any authority to create permanent ditches on the land of anyone other than the owners of such low land. It does allow for temporary passages to "obtain a view of the premises or for the more convenient or faster removal of obstructions therein"—with "therein" referring to the "premises" being improved—so there is no provision for outflows under this statute, except through natural streams.
By a statute of March 28, 1855, the Legislature of Massachusetts has exercised a power as extensive as is desirable for all purposes of drainage, although the provisions of the act referred to are not, perhaps, so broad as may be found necessary, in order to open outfalls and remove all obstructions to drainage. As this act is believed to be peculiar, we give its substance:
By a law enacted on March 28, 1855, the Legislature of Massachusetts has taken on a power that is as broad as needed for all drainage purposes, although the details of the law may not be as comprehensive as required to create outfalls and eliminate all drainage obstacles. Since this law appears to be unique, we will summarize its main points:
"An Act to authorize the making of Roads and Drains in certain cases.
"An Act to allow the construction of roads and drainage systems in certain situations."
"Sect. 1. Any town or city, person or persons, company or body corporate, having the ownership of low lands, lakes, swamps, quarries, mines, or mineral deposits, that, by means of adjacent lands belonging to other persons, or occupied as a highway, cannot be approached, worked, drained, or used in the ordinary manner without crossing said lands or highway, may be authorized to establish roads, drains, ditches, tunnels, and railways to said places in the manner herein provided.
Sect. 1. Any town or city, individual or group, company or corporation that owns low-lying land, lakes, swamps, quarries, mines, or mineral deposits, which cannot be accessed, worked, drained, or used in a normal way because they are surrounded by land owned by other people or are located along a highway, may be allowed to build roads, drains, ditches, tunnels, and railways to those locations as outlined here.
"Sect. 2. The party desiring to make such improvements shall file a petition therefor with the commissioners of the county in which the premises are situated, setting forth the names of the persons interested, if known to the petitioner, and also, in detail, the nature of the proposed improvement, and the situation of the adjoining lands."
"Sect. 2. The party wanting to make these improvements must submit a petition to the county commissioners where the property is located. The petition should include the names of any interested individuals, if the petitioner knows them, as well as a detailed description of the proposed improvement and the location of the neighboring lands."
Sect. 3 provides for notice to owners and town authorities.
Section 3 provides notice to property owners and local authorities.
Sect. 4 provides for a hearing, and laying out the improvement, and[349] assessment of damages upon the respective parties, "having strict regard to the benefits which they will receive."
Sect. 4 allows for a hearing and outlines the improvements, along with[349] assessing damages to the respective parties, "taking into account the benefits they will receive."
Sect. 5 provides for repairs by a majority of those benefitted; and Sect. 6 for appeals, as in the case of highways.
Sec. 5 allows repairs to be made by a majority of those who benefit; and Sect. 6 covers appeals, similar to the process for highways.
By an act of 1857, this act was so far amended as to authorize the application for the desired improvement, to be made to the Select-men of the town, or the Mayor and Aldermen of the city, in case the lands over which the improvement is desired are all situated in one town or city.
By an act from 1857, this law was amended to allow the application for the desired improvement to be submitted to the Selectmen of the town, or the Mayor and Aldermen of the city, if the land where the improvement is needed is entirely located in one town or city.
It is manifest certainly, that the State assumes power sufficient to authorize any interference with private property that may be necessary for the most extended and thorough drainage operations. The power which may compel a man to improve his portion of a swamp, may apply as well to his wet hill-sides; and the power which may open temporary passages through lands or dams, without consent of the owner, may keep them open permanently, if expedient.
It’s clear that the State has enough power to permit any intervention with private property that might be needed for comprehensive drainage projects. The authority to require a person to improve their section of swamp land can also apply to their soggy hillsides; and the authority that allows for temporary access through land or barriers, without the owner’s consent, can also keep those passages open permanently if it makes sense to do so.
LAND DRAINAGE COMPANIES.
Besides the charters which have at various times, for many centuries, been granted to companies, for the drainage of fens and marshes, and other lowlands, in modern times, great encouragement has been given by the British Government for the drainage and other improvement of high-lands. Not only have extensive powers been granted to companies, to proceed with their own means, to effect the objects in view, but the Government itself has advanced money, by way of loan, in aid of drainage and like improvements.
Besides the charters that have been granted to companies over the centuries for draining fens, marshes, and other lowlands, the British Government has recently put a lot of effort into encouraging the drainage and improvement of highlands. Extensive powers have been granted to companies to use their own resources to achieve these goals, and the Government has also provided loans to support drainage and similar projects.
By the provisions of two acts of Parliament, no less than $20,000,000 have been loaned in aid of such improvements. These acts are generally known as Public Moneys Drainage Acts. There are already four chartered companies for the same general objects, doing an immense amount of business, on private funds.
By the rules of two acts of Parliament, at least $20,000,000 has been loaned to support these improvements. These acts are commonly referred to as Public Funds Drainage Acts. There are currently four chartered companies with similar goals, conducting a significant amount of business using private funds.
It will be sufficient, perhaps, to state, in general terms, the mode of operation under these several acts.
It might be enough to describe, in broad terms, how these various laws work.
Most lands in England are held under incumbrances of some kind. Many are entailed, as it is termed: that is to say, vested for life in certain persons, and then to go to others, the tenant for life having no power to sell the property. Often, the life estate is owned by one person, and the remainder by a stranger, or remote branch of the family, whom the life-tenant has no desire to benefit. In such cases, the tenant, or occupant, would be unwilling to make expensive improvements at his own cost, which might benefit himself but a few years, and then go into other hands.[350]
Most properties in England come with some kind of restrictions. Many are entailed, meaning they're owned for the lifetime of certain individuals, after which they pass to others, and the lifetime owner can't sell the property. Often, one person holds the life estate while someone unrelated or a distant family member owns the remainder, whom the lifetime owner has no interest in benefiting. In these situations, the occupant is unlikely to invest in costly improvements that would benefit him for only a few years before going to someone else.[350]
On the other hand, the remainder-man would have no right to meddle with the property while the tenant-for-life was in possession; and it would be rare, that all those interested could agree to unite in efforts to increase the general value of the estate, by such improvements.
On the other hand, the remainder-man wouldn’t have any right to interfere with the property while the tenant-for-life was in possession; and it would be unusual for everyone involved to come together to work on increasing the overall value of the estate through such improvements.
The great object in view was, then, to devise means, by which such estates, suffering for want of systematic, and often expensive, drainage operations, might be improved, and the cost of improvement be charged on the estate, so as to do no injustice to any party interested.
The main goal was to find ways to improve estates that were suffering from a lack of organized, often costly, drainage efforts, and to ensure that the costs of these improvements would be paid for by the estate itself, so that no one with an interest would be treated unfairly.
The plan finally adopted, is, to allow the tenant or occupant to have the improvement made, either by expending his private funds, or by borrowing of the Government or the private companies, and having the amount expended, made a charge on the land, to be paid, in annual payments, by the person who shall be in occupation each year. Under one of these acts, the term of payment is fixed at 22 years, and under a later act, at 50 years.
The plan that's finally been approved is to let the tenant or occupant make improvements either by using their own money or by borrowing from the government or private companies. The amount spent will be attached to the land and will need to be paid off in annual payments by whoever is occupying it each year. According to one of these laws, the payment period is set at 22 years, while a more recent law states it’s 50 years.
Thus, if A own a life-estate in lands, and B the remainder, and the estate needs draining, A may take such steps as to have the improvement made, by borrowing the money, and repaying it by yearly payments, in such sums as will pay the whole expenditure, with interest, in twenty-two or fifty years: and if A die before the expiration of the term, the succeeding occupants continue the payments until the whole is paid.
Thus, if A owns a life estate in land and B owns the remainder, and the property needs draining, A can take the necessary steps to make the improvement by borrowing the money and repaying it in yearly installments that will cover the entire cost plus interest in twenty-two or fifty years. If A dies before the end of the term, the next occupants will continue the payments until everything is paid off.
A borrows, for instance, $1,000, and expends it in draining the lands. It is made a charge, like a mortgage, on the land, to be paid in equal annual payments for fifty years. At six per cent., the annual payment will be but about $63.33, to pay the whole amount of debt and the interest, in fifty years. A pays this sum annually as long as he lives, and B then takes possession, and pays the annual installment.
A borrows, for example, $1,000 and uses it to drain the land. This amount becomes a charge, similar to a mortgage, on the land, and it is to be repaid in equal annual installments over fifty years. At six percent interest, the annual payment will be about $63.33, which covers the entire debt and interest over the fifty years. A pays this amount each year for the rest of his life, and then B takes over and continues to make the annual payments.
If the tenant expend his own money, and die before the whole term expire, he may leave the unpaid balance as a legacy, or part of his own estate, to his heirs.
If the tenant spends his own money and dies before the whole term expires, he can leave the unpaid balance as an inheritance or part of his estate to his heirs.
The whole proceeding is based upon the idea, that the rent or income of the property is sufficiently increased, to make the operation advantageous to all parties. It is assumed, that the operation of drainage, under one of these statutes, will be effectual to increase the rent of the land, to the amount of this annual payment, for at least fifty years. The fact, that the British Government, after the most thorough investigation, has thus pronounced the opinion, that drainage works, properly conducted, will thus increase the rent of land, and remain in full operation a half century at least, affords the best evidence possible, both of the utility and the durability of tile drainage.
The whole process is based on the idea that the rent or income from the property is increased enough to benefit everyone involved. It’s assumed that drainage work, under one of these laws, will effectively raise the land’s rent by at least the amount of this yearly payment for a minimum of fifty years. The fact that the British Government, after extensive research, has concluded that well-executed drainage projects will increase land rent and last at least half a century provides the strongest evidence of both the usefulness and longevity of tile drainage.
CHAPTER XXII[351]
DRAINAGE OF CELLARS.
Wet Cellars Unhealthful.—Importance of Cellars in New England.—A Glance at the Garret, by way of Contrast.—Necessity of Drains.—Sketch of an Inundated Cellar.—Tiles best for Drains.—Best Plan of Cellar Drain; Illustration.—Cementing will not do.—Drainage of Barn Cellars.—Uses of them.—Actual Drainage of a very Bad Cellar described.—Drains Outside and Inside; Illustration.
Wet Cellars Unhealthy.—Importance of Cellars in New England.—A Look at the Attic, for Comparison.—Need for Drains.—Overview of a Flooded Cellar.—Tiles are Best for Drains.—Best Plan for Cellar Drain; Illustration.—Cementing is Not Effective.—Drainage of Barn Cellars.—Their Uses.—Description of the Actual Drainage of a Very Poor Cellar.—Outside and Inside Drains; Illustration.
No person needs to be informed that it is unhealthful, as well as inconvenient, to have water, at any time of the year, in the cellar. In New England, the cellar is an essential part of the house. All sorts of vegetables, roots, and fruit, that can be injured by frost, are stored in cellars; and milk, and wine, and cider, and a thousand "vessels of honor," like tubs and buckets, churns and washing-machines, that are liable to injury from heat or cold, or other vicissitude of climate, find a safe retreat in the cellar. Excepting the garret, which is, as Ariosto represents the moon to be, the receptacle of all things useless on earth, the cellar is the greatest "curiosity shop" of the establishment.
No one needs to be told that having water in the basement, at any time of year, is both unhealthy and inconvenient. In New England, the basement is a crucial part of the house. All kinds of vegetables, roots, and fruits that can be damaged by frost are stored in basements; along with milk, wine, cider, and a thousand "vessels of honor," like tubs and buckets, churns, and washing machines, that are at risk from heat, cold, or other changes in the weather, find a safe place in the basement. Aside from the attic, which, as Ariosto describes the moon, is a place for all things useless on earth, the basement is the biggest "curiosity shop" in the house.
The poet finds in the moon,
The poet finds in the moon,
Here safely treasured—each forgotten item,
Time wasted, and opportunity missed;
There, he found shining chains and knots of gold,
The misleading connections that mismatched lovers have; Every struggle, every loss, every opportunity that people endure,
Only Folly, which fills them all, "For foolishness never leaves this world." [352]
In the garret, are the old spinning wheel, the clock reel, the linen wheel with its distaff, your grandfather's knapsack and cartridge-box and Continental coat, your great-aunt's Leghorn bonnet and side-saddle, or pillion, great files of the village newspapers—the "Morning Cry" and "Midnight Yell," besides worn out trunks and boxes without number. In the cellar, are the substantiate—barrels of beef, and pork, and apples, "taters" and turnips; in short, the Winter stores of the family.
In the attic, there's the old spinning wheel, the clock reel, the linen wheel with its distaff, your grandfather's knapsack and cartridge box and Continental coat, your great-aunt's Leghorn bonnet and side saddle, plus stacks of village newspapers—the "Morning Cry" and "Midnight Yell," along with countless worn-out trunks and boxes. In the basement, there are the essentials—barrels of beef, pork, and apples, "taters," and turnips; in short, the family's winter supplies.
Many, perhaps most, of the cellars in New England are in some way drained, usually by a stone culvert, laid a little lower than the bottom of the cellar, into which the water is conducted, in the Spring, when it bursts through the walls, or rises at the bottom, by means of little ditches scooped out in the surface.
Many, probably most, of the cellars in New England are somehow drained, usually by a stone culvert, which is placed a bit lower than the cellar floor. This culvert carries the water away in the spring when it seeps through the walls or pools at the bottom, aided by small ditches dug into the surface.
In some districts, people seem to have little idea of drains, even for cellars; and on flat land, endeavor to set their houses high enough to have their cellars above ground. This, besides being extremely inconvenient for passage out of, and into the house, often fails to make a dry cellar, for the water from the roof runs in, and causes a flood. And such accidents, as they are mildly termed by the improvident builders, often occur by the failure of drains imperfectly laid.
In some areas, people don't seem to know much about drains, even for basements; and on flat land, they try to build their houses high enough so that their basements are above ground. This, besides being really inconvenient for getting in and out of the house, often doesn't keep the basement dry, because water from the roof runs in and causes a flood. And such accidents, as the careless builders casually call them, often happen due to poorly installed drains.
No child, who ever saw a cellar afloat, during one of these inundations, will ever outgrow the impression. You stand on the cellar stairs, and below is a dark waste of waters, of illimitable extent. By the dim glimmer of the dip-candle, a scene is presented which furnishes a tolerable picture of "chaos and old night," but defies all description. Empty dry casks, with cider barrels, wash-tubs, and boxes, ride triumphantly on the surface, while half filled vinegar and molasses kegs, like water-logged ships, roll heavily below. Broken boards and planks, old hoops, and staves, and barrel-heads innumerable, are buoyant[353] with this change of the elements; while floating turnips and apples, with, here and there, a brilliant cabbage head, gleam in this subterranean firmament, like twinkling stars, dimmed by the effulgence of the moon at her full. Magnificent among the lesser vessels of the fleet, "like some tall admiral," rides the enormous "mash-tub," while the astonished rats and mice are splashing about at its base in the dark waters, like sailors just washed, at midnight, from the deck, by a heavy sea.
No child who has ever seen a flooded cellar during one of these disasters will ever forget the experience. You stand on the cellar stairs, and below you is a dark expanse of water stretching endlessly. By the faint glow of the dip candle, a scene appears that paints a decent picture of "chaos and old night," but is beyond description. Empty dry casks, cider barrels, wash tubs, and boxes float triumphantly on the surface, while half-filled vinegar and molasses kegs, like waterlogged ships, roll heavily below. Broken boards, old hoops, staves, and countless barrel heads are afloat with this change in the elements; while floating turnips and apples, along with a brilliant cabbage head here and there, sparkle in this underground sky like dimmed stars by the bright light of the full moon. Magnificent among the smaller vessels of the fleet, "like some tall admiral," rides the enormous "mash-tub," while the startled rats and mice splash around its base in the dark water, like sailors abruptly washed from the deck by a heavy sea at midnight.[353]
The lookers-on are filled with various emotions. The farmer sees his thousand bushels of potatoes submerged, and devoted to speedy decay; the good wife mourns for her diluted pickles, and apple sauce, and her drowned firkins of butter; while the boys are anxious to embark on a raft or in the tubs, on an excursion of pleasure and discovery.
The onlookers are filled with different emotions. The farmer sees his thousand bushels of potatoes submerged, wasted and rotting away; the good wife grieves for her spoiled pickles, apple sauce, and her drowned tubs of butter; while the boys are eager to jump on a raft or into the tubs, ready for an adventure and exploration.
To avoid such scenes as the above, every cellar which is not upon a dry sandbank, should be provided with a drain of some kind, which will be at all times, secure.
To prevent situations like the one described above, every cellar that isn't on a dry sandbank should be equipped with some sort of secure drain at all times.
For a main drain from the cellar, four or six-inch tiles are abundantly sufficient, and where they can be reasonably obtained, much cheaper than stone. The expense of excavation, of hauling stone, and of laying them, will make the expense of a stone drain far exceed that of a tile drain, with tiles at fair prices. The tiles, if well secured at the inlet and outlet of the drain, will entirely exclude rats and mice, which always infest stone drains to cellars. Care must be taken, if the water is conducted on the surface of the cellar into the drain, that nothing but pure water be admitted. This may be effected by a fine strainer of wire or plate; or by a cess-pool, which is better, because it will also prevent any draft of air through the drain.
For a main drain from the basement, four or six-inch tiles are more than enough, and when available, they're much cheaper than stone. The costs of digging, transporting stone, and installation will make a stone drain way more expensive than a tile drain, as long as the tiles are reasonably priced. If the tiles are properly secured at the entrance and exit of the drain, they will completely keep out rats and mice, which usually infest stone drains leading to basements. It’s important to ensure that only clean water goes into the drain if water is directed from the basement. This can be done with a fine wire or plate strainer; however, a cesspool is a better option, as it will also prevent any air drafts through the drain.
The very best method of draining a cellar is that adopted by the writer, on his own premises. It is, in fact, a mere[354] application of the ordinary principles of field drainage. The cellar was dug in sand, which rests on clay, a foot or two below the usual water-line in winter, and a drain of chestnut plank laid from the cellar to low land, some 20 rods off. Tiles were not then in use in the neighborhood, and were not thought of, when the house was built.
The best way to drain a cellar is the method used by the writer on his own property. It’s essentially a simple[354] application of regular field drainage principles. The cellar was excavated in sand that sits on clay, about a foot or two below the typical winter waterline, with a drain made of chestnut wood running from the cellar to some low land about 20 rods away. Tiles weren’t being used in the area at that time, and they weren’t considered when the house was constructed.
In the Spring, water came up in the bottom of the cellar, and ran out in little hollows made for the purpose, on the surface.
In the spring, water collected at the bottom of the cellar and flowed out through small channels made for that purpose on the surface.
Not liking this inconvenient wetness, we next dug trenches a few inches deep, put boards at the sides to exclude the sand, and packed the trenches with small stones. This operated better, but the mice found pleasant accommodations among the stones, and sand got in and choked the passage. Lastly, tiles came to our relief, and a perfect preventive of all inconvenient moisture was found, by adopting the following plan:
Not liking this annoying wetness, we then dug trenches a few inches deep, added boards along the sides to keep out the sand, and filled the trenches with small stones. This worked better, but the mice found nice homes among the stones, and sand got in and blocked the passage. Finally, tiles came to our rescue, and we discovered a perfect solution to all that unwanted moisture by using the following plan:
The drain from the cellar was taken up, and relaid 18 inches below the cellar-bottom, at the outlet. Then a trench was cut in the cellar-bottom, two feet from the wall, a foot deep at the farthest corner from the outlet, and deepening towards it, round the whole cellar, following the course of the walls. In this trench, two-inch pipe tiles were laid, and carefully covered with tan-bark, and the trenches filled with the earth. This tile drain was connected with the outlet drain 18 inches under ground, and the earth levelled over the whole. This was done two years ago, and no drop of water has ever been visible in the cellar since it was completed. The water is caught by the drain before it rises to the surface, and conducted away.
The drain from the cellar was removed and replaced 18 inches below the cellar floor at the outlet. Then, a trench was dug in the cellar floor, two feet from the wall, a foot deep at the farthest corner from the outlet, getting deeper as it approached the outlet, running around the entire cellar, following the walls. In this trench, two-inch pipe tiles were placed and carefully covered with tan-bark, then the trenches were filled with soil. This tile drain was connected to the outlet drain 18 inches underground, and the ground was leveled over everything. This was done two years ago, and not a single drop of water has been visible in the cellar since it was finished. The water is collected by the drain before it can reach the surface and is directed away.
Vegetables of all kinds are now laid in heaps on the cellar-bottom, which is just damp enough to pack solid, and preserves vegetables better, in a dry cellar, than casks, or bins with floors.[355]
Vegetables of all kinds are now piled up on the cellar floor, which is just moist enough to hold them together and keeps the vegetables better, in a dry cellar, than barrels or bins with bottoms.[355]
A little sketch of this mode of draining cellars, representing the cellar referred to, will, perhaps, present the matter more clearly.
A brief overview of this method of draining cellars, showing the cellar mentioned, will likely make the topic clearer.

Fig. 99—Drainage of Cellar.
Fig. 99—Cellar Drainage.
Many persons have attempted to exclude water from their cellars by cementing them on the bottom, and part way up on the sides. This might succeed, if the cellar wall were laid very close, and in cement, and a heavy coating of cement applied to the bottom. A moment's attention to the subject will show that it is not likely to succeed, as experience shows that it seldom, if ever, does.
Many people have tried to keep water out of their basements by sealing the bottom and part of the sides with cement. This might work if the basement walls are built very tightly and made of cement, with a thick layer of cement on the bottom. However, thinking about the issue for a moment will reveal that it's unlikely to be effective, as experience shows that it rarely, if ever, works.
The water which enters cellars, frequently runs from[356] the surface behind the cellar wall, where rats always keep open passages, and fills the ground and these passages; especially when the earth is frozen, to the surface, thus giving a column of water behind the wall six or eight feet in height. The pressure of water is always in proportion to its height or head, without reference to the extent of surface. The pressure, then, of the water against the cemented wall, would be equal to the pressure of a full mill-pond against its perpendicular dam of six or eight feet height! No sane man would think of tightening a dam, with seven feet head of water, by plastering a little cement on the down-stream side of it, which might as well be done, as to exclude water from a cellar by the process, and under the conditions, stated.
The water that seeps into basements often comes from[356] the surface behind the cellar wall, where rats always create openings, and fills the ground and those openings; especially when the ground is frozen, reaching up to the surface and creating a column of water behind the wall that is six to eight feet tall. The pressure of water is always proportional to its height, regardless of the surface area. Therefore, the pressure of the water against the cement wall would be the same as the pressure of a full pond against its vertical dam standing six or eight feet high! No sensible person would consider reinforcing a dam with seven feet of water behind it by adding a bit of cement to the downstream side, just as it makes no sense to try to keep water out of a basement using the method and under the conditions mentioned.
DRAINAGE OF BARN CELLARS.
Most barns in New England are constructed with good substantial cellars, from six to nine feet deep, with solid walls of stone. They serve a three-fold purpose; of keeping manure, thrown down from the cattle and horse stalls above; of preserving turnips, mangolds, and other vegetables for the stock; and of storing carts, wagons, and other farm implements. Usually, the cellar is divided by stone, brick, or wood partitions, into apartments, devoted to each of the purposes named. The cellar for manure should not be wet enough to have water flow away from it, nor dry enough to have it leach. For the other purposes, a dry cellar is desirable.
Most barns in New England are built with solid cellars that are six to nine feet deep, featuring sturdy stone walls. They serve three main purposes: to store manure dropped from the cattle and horse stalls above, to keep turnips, mangolds, and other vegetables for the animals, and to hold carts, wagons, and other farming tools. Typically, the cellar is divided by stone, brick, or wood partitions into separate areas for each of these purposes. The manure cellar should be wet enough to avoid water flowing away but not so wet that it leaches. For the other uses, a dry cellar is preferred.
Perhaps the details of the drainage of a barn cellar on our own premises, may give our views of the best mode of drainage, both for a manure cellar, and for a root and implement cellar. The barn was built in 1849, on a site sloping slightly to the south. In excavating for the wall, at about seven feet below the height fixed for the sills, we came upon a soft, blue clay, so nearly fluid[357] that a ten-foot pole was easily thrust down out of sight, perpendicularly, into it! Here was a dilemma! How could a heavy wall and building stand on that foundation? A skillful engineer was consulted, who had seen heavy brick blocks built in just such places, and who pronounced this a very simple case to manage. "If," said he, "the mud cannot get up, the wall resting on it cannot settle down." Upon this idea, by his advice, we laid our wall, on thick plank, on the clay, so as to get an even bearing, and drove down, against the face of the wall, edge to edge, two-inch plank to the depth of about three feet, leaving them a foot above the bottom of the wall. Against this, we rammed coarse gravel very hard, and left the bottom of the cellar one foot above the bottom of the wall, so that the weight might counterbalance the pressure of the wall and building. The building has been in constant use, and appears not to have settled a single inch.
The details about how we drained the barn cellar on our property might give us insight into the best drainage methods for both a manure cellar and a root and implement cellar. The barn was built in 1849, on a site that slopes slightly to the south. When we were digging for the wall, about seven feet below the level set for the sills, we encountered a soft, blue clay that was almost liquid[357]; a ten-foot pole could be easily pushed straight down into it! This presented a problem. How could a heavy wall and building be stable on that kind of foundation? We consulted a skilled engineer who had experience with heavy brick structures built in similar conditions, and he said it was a straightforward situation to manage. "If," he explained, "the mud can't rise, then the wall resting on it can't sink." Based on his advice, we laid the wall on thick planks on top of the clay to ensure an even base, and drove two-inch planks edge-to-edge down to a depth of about three feet, leaving a foot above the bottom of the wall. We then compacted coarse gravel against this so that the bottom of the cellar was a foot higher than the bottom of the wall, creating a balance against the pressure from the wall and building. The structure has been in continuous use, and it doesn’t seem to have settled even slightly.
The cellar was first used only for manure, and for keeping swine. It was quite wet, and grew more and more so every year, as the water found passages into it, till it was found that its use must be abandoned, or an amphibious race of pigs procured. It was known, that the most of the water entered at the north corner of the building, borne up by the clay which comes to within three feet of the natural surface; and, as it would be ruinous to the manure to leach it, by drawing a large quantity of water through it into drains, in the usual mode of draining, it was concluded to cut off the water on the outside of the building, and before it reached the cellar. Accordingly, a drain was started at the river, some twenty rods below, and carried up to the barn, and then eight feet deep around two sides of it, by the north corner, where most water came in.
The cellar was initially used just for manure and for keeping pigs. It was pretty damp and got wetter every year as water found its way in, until it became clear that it either needed to be abandoned or we'd have to get some water-loving pigs. It was known that most of the water entered from the north corner of the building, pushed up by clay that came within three feet of the natural surface; and since draining it would ruin the manure by washing it out, it was decided to stop the water outside the building before it reached the cellar. So, a drain was started at the river, about twenty rods down, and it was dug up to the barn, going eight feet deep around two sides of it, particularly by the north corner where the most water came in.
We cut through the sand, and four or five feet into the clay, and laid one course only of two-inch pipe-tiles at the[358] bottom. As this was designed for a catch-water, and not merely to take in water at the bottom, in the usual way, we filled the trench, after covering the tiles with tan, with coarse sand above the level of the clay, and put clay upon the top. We believe no water has ever crossed this drain, which operates as perfectly as an open ditch, to catch all that flows upon it. The manure cellar was then dry enough, but the other cellar was wanted for roots and implements, and the water was constantly working up through the soft clay bottom, keeping it of the consistency of mortar, and making it difficult to haul out the manure, and everyway disagreeable.
We dug through the sand and about four or five feet into the clay, and laid just one layer of two-inch pipe tiles at the[358] bottom. Since this was meant to catch water rather than simply collect it from the bottom like usual, we filled the trench with coarse sand above the clay level after covering the tiles with tan and then topped it with clay. We believe no water has ever crossed this drain, which works as effectively as an open ditch, capturing everything that flows over it. The manure cellar was dry enough, but the other cellar was needed for roots and tools, and water was continuously seeping up through the soft clay bottom, giving it a mortar-like consistency and making it difficult to remove the manure, which was quite unpleasant.
One more effort was made to dry this part. A drain was opened from the highway, which passes the barn, to the south corner; and about two and a half feet below the bottom of the cellar, along inside the wall, at about three feet distance from it, on two of the sides; and another in the same way, across the middle of the cellar. These, laid with two-inch tiles, and filled with gravel, were connected together, and led off to the wayside. The waste water of two watering places, one in the cellar, and another outside, supplied by an aqueduct, was conducted into the tiles, and thus quietly disposed of. The reason why the drains are filled with gravel is, that as the soft clay, in which the tiles were laid, could never have the heat of the direct rays of the sun on its surface, there might be no cracking of it, sufficient to afford passage for the water, and so this was made a catch-water to stop any water that might attempt to cross it.
One last effort was made to dry this area. A drain was opened from the highway, which runs past the barn, to the southeast corner; it was about two and a half feet below the bottom of the cellar, running along the inside of the wall, about three feet away from it, on two of the sides; and another was done similarly across the middle of the cellar. These drains, made with two-inch tiles and filled with gravel, were connected and directed to the roadside. The waste water from two watering spots, one in the cellar and another outside, supplied by an aqueduct, flowed into the tiles, allowing for proper drainage. The reason the drains are filled with gravel is that the soft clay in which the tiles were laid would never get direct sunlight on its surface, which means it wouldn’t crack enough to let water pass through. This gravel layer acts as a catchment to stop any water that might try to go across it.
The work was finished last Autumn, and we have had but the experience of a single season with it; but we are satisfied that the object is attained. The surface of the implement cellar, which before, had been always soft and muddy, has ever since been as dry and solid as a highway in Summer; and the root cellar, which has a cemented[359] bottom, is as dry as the barn floor. The manure can now be teamed out, without leaving a rut, and we are free to confess, that the effect is greater than we had deemed possible.
The work was finished last autumn, and we’ve only experienced it for one season; but we’re confident that we’ve achieved our goal. The surface of the implement cellar, which used to be soft and muddy, has been as dry and solid as a summer highway ever since. The root cellar, which has a cemented[359] bottom, is as dry as the barn floor. Manure can now be taken out without leaving a rut, and we admit that the result is more impressive than we thought possible.
The following cut will show at a glance, how all the drains are laid, the dotted lines representing the tile drains:
The following diagram will quickly show how all the drains are laid out, with the dotted lines representing the tile drains:

Fig. 100.
Fig. 100.
The drain outside the barn, on the right, leads from a spring, some two hundred feet off, into the cellar and into the yard, and supplies water to the cattle, at the points indicated. The waste water is then conducted into the drains, and passes off.
The drain outside the barn, on the right, comes from a spring about two hundred feet away, flowing into the cellar and yard, providing water for the cattle at the marked locations. The wastewater is then directed into the drains and carried away.
CHAPTER XXIII[360]
DRAINAGE OF SWAMPS.
Vast Extent of Swamp Lands in the United States.—Their Soil.—Sources of their Moisture.—How to Drain them.—The Soil Subsides by Draining.—Catch-water Drains.—Springs.—Mr. Ruffin's Drainage in Virginia.—Is there Danger of Over-draining?
Vast Extent of Swamp Lands in the United States.—Their Soil.—Sources of their Moisture.—How to Drain them.—The Soil Subsides by Draining.—Catch-water Drains.—Springs.—Mr. Ruffin's Drainage in Virginia.—Is there Danger of Over-draining?
In almost, if not quite every State, extensive tracts of swamp lands are found, not only unfit, in their natural condition, for cultivation, but, in many instances, by reason of obnoxious effluvia, arising from stagnant water, dangerous to health.
In almost every state, there are large areas of swamp land that are not suitable for farming in their natural state. In many cases, the unpleasant odors coming from stagnant water can also be harmful to health.
Of the vast extent of such lands, some idea may be formed, by adverting to the fact, that under the grants by Congress, of the public lands given away to the States in which they lie, as of no value to the Government and as nuisances to their neighborhood, in their natural condition; sixty millions of acres, it is estimated, will be included.
Of the vast size of these lands, you can get an idea by noting that, according to the grants from Congress that handed over public lands to the states where they are located—considered worthless to the government and a nuisance to their surroundings in their natural state—it’s estimated that around sixty million acres will be included.
These are only the public lands, and in the new States. In every township in New England, there are hundreds of acres of swamp land, just beginning to be brought to the notice of their owners, as of sufficient value to authorize the expense of drainage.
These are just the public lands in the new States. In every township in New England, there are hundreds of acres of swamp land that are just starting to get noticed by their owners as being valuable enough to justify the cost of drainage.
To say that these swamps are the most fertile and the most valuable lands in New England, is but to repeat the assertion of all who have successfully tried the experiment of reclaiming them.
To say that these swamps are the most fertile and the most valuable lands in New England is just to echo what everyone says who has successfully tried to reclaim them.
In their natural state, these swamps are usually covered with a heavy growth of timber; but the greater portion[361] of them have been partially cleared, and many of them are mowed, producing a coarse, wild, and nearly worthless grass.
In their natural state, these swamps are typically thick with trees; however, most[361] of them have been partly cleared, and many are mowed, resulting in a rough, wild, and almost useless grass.
The soil of these tracts is usually a black mud or peat, partly the product of vegetable growth and decay on the spot, and partly the deposit of the lighter portion of the upland soil, brought down by the washing of showers, and by spring freshets. The leaves of the surrounding forest, too, are naturally dropped by the Autumn winds into the lowest places, and these swamps have received them, for ages. Usually, these lands lie in basins among the hills, sometimes along the banks of streams and rivers, always at the lowest level of the country, and not, like Irish bogs, upon hill-tops, as well as elsewhere. Their surface is, usually, level and even, as compared with other lands in the old States. Their soil, or deposit, is of various depth, from one foot to twenty, and is often almost afloat with water, so as to shake under the feet, in walking over it.
The soil in these areas is typically black mud or peat, partly made up of decayed plant material from the area and partly a mix of lighter upland soil washed down by rain and spring floods. Leaves from the surrounding forest are naturally blown by autumn winds into the lowest spots, and these swamps have collected them for ages. Usually, these lands are found in basins among the hills, sometimes alongside streams and rivers, and always at the lowest points in the landscape, unlike Irish bogs, which can also be found on hilltops. Their surface is generally flat and even compared to other lands in the older states. The depth of the soil or deposit varies from one foot to twenty feet, and it often feels almost buoyant with water, making it shake under your feet when you walk on it.
The subsoil corresponds, in general, with that of the surrounding country, but is oftener of sand than clay, and not unfrequently, is of various thin strata, indicating an alluvial formation. Frogs and snakes find in these swamps an agreeable residence, and wild beasts a safe retreat from their common foe. Notoriously, such lands are unhealthful, producing fevers and agues in their neighborhood, often traceable to tracts no larger than a very few acres.
The subsoil is generally similar to that of the surrounding area, but it's more often sandy than clayey, and frequently consists of various thin layers that suggest an alluvial formation. Frogs and snakes find these swamps a comfortable home, while wild animals have a safe refuge from their common enemy. It’s well-known that such lands are unhealthy, causing fevers and chills in nearby areas, often linked to patches no bigger than just a few acres.
In considering how to drain such tracts, the first inquiry is as to the source of the water. What makes the land too wet? Is it the direct fall of rain upon it; the influx of water by visible streams, which have no sufficient outlet; the downflow of rain and snow water from the neighboring hills; or the bursting up of springs from below?[362]
In figuring out how to drain such areas, the first question is about the source of the water. What makes the land too soggy? Is it the direct rain falling on it; the flow of water from visible streams that don't have a proper outlet; the runoff of rain and melted snow from nearby hills; or the emergence of springs from below?[362]
Examine and decide, which and how many, of these four sources of moisture, contribute to flood the tract in question. We assume, that the swamp is in a basin, or, at least, is the lowest land of the neighborhood. The three or four feet of rain water annually falling upon it, unless it have an outlet, must make it a swamp, for there can usually be no natural drainage downward, because the swamp itself is the lowest spot, and no adjacent land can draw off water from its bottom. Of course, there is lower land towards the natural outlet, but usually this is narrow, and quite insufficient to allow of drainage by lateral percolation. Then, always, more or less water must run upon the surface, or just below it, from the hills, and usually, a stream is found in the swamp, if none pours into it from above.
Examine and decide which of these four sources of moisture contribute to flooding the area in question. We assume that the swamp is in a basin or at least the lowest land in the neighborhood. The three or four feet of rain that falls on it each year, unless it has an outlet, must turn it into a swamp, as there is typically no natural drainage downward because the swamp itself is the lowest spot, and no nearby land can draw water from its bottom. Of course, there may be lower land towards the natural outlet, but this is usually narrow and not adequate for drainage through lateral percolation. Additionally, there will always be some water that runs on the surface or just below it from the hills, and usually, a stream is found in the swamp if none flows into it from above.
The first step is a survey, to ascertain the fall over the whole, and the next, to provide a deep and sufficient outlet. Here, we must bear in mind a peculiarity of such lands. All land subsides, more or less, by drainage, but the soils of which we are speaking, far more than any other. Marsh and swamp lands often subside, or settle, one or two feet, or even more. Their soil, of fibrous roots, decayed leaves, and the like, almost floats; or, at least, expands like a sponge; and when it is compacted, by removing the water, it occupies far less space than before. This fact must be kept in mind in all the process. The outlet must be made low enough, and the drains must be made deep enough, to draw the water, after the subsidence of the soil to its lowest point.
The first step is to conduct a survey to determine the overall drop in elevation, and the next is to create a deep and adequate outlet. Here, we need to remember an important feature of these types of land. All land settles to some degree due to drainage, but the soils we’re discussing settle much more than others. Marsh and swamp lands can sink or "settle" by one to two feet or even more. Their soil, made up of fibrous roots, decayed leaves, and similar materials, nearly floats; or at the very least, expands like a sponge. When the water is removed, it compacts and takes up significantly less space than before. This fact must be considered throughout the entire process. The outlet needs to be low enough, and the drains must be deep enough to remove water after the soil has settled to its lowest point.
If a natural stream flow through, or from, the tract, it will usually indicate the lowest level; and the straightening and clearing out of this natural drain, may usually be the first operation, after opening a proper outlet. Then a catch-water open drain, just at the junction of the high and low land, entirely round the swamp, will be necessary[363] to intercept the water flowing into the swamp. This water will usually be found to flow in, both on the surface, and beneath it, and in greater or less quantities, according to the formation of the adjacent land. This catch-water is essential to success. The wettest spot in a swamp is frequently, just at its edge, because there the surface-water is received, and because there too, the water that has come down on an impervious subsoil stratum, finds vent. It is in vain to attempt to lay dry a swamp, by drains, however deep, through its centre. The water has done its mischief, before it reaches the centre. It should be intercepted, before it has entered the tract, to be reclaimed.
If a natural stream runs through or from the area, it usually marks the lowest level. Clearing and straightening this natural drainage is typically the first step after creating a proper outlet. Next, a catch-water drain needs to be built at the point where the high and low land meet, completely around the swamp, to catch the water flowing into it. This water typically comes in both from the surface and underground, in varying amounts depending on the shape of the surrounding land. This catch-water is crucial for success. The wettest part of a swamp is often right at its edge because that’s where surface water collects, and where water on an impermeable layer below finds release. It’s pointless to try to dry out a swamp by digging drains, no matter how deep, in its center. The water has already caused damage by the time it reaches the center. It needs to be intercepted before it enters the area that’s being reclaimed.
This drain must be deep, and therefore, must be wide and sloping, so that it may be kept open; and it should be curved round, following the line of the upland to the outlet. Often it has been found, in England, that a single drain, six or eight feet deep, has completely drained a tract of twenty or thirty acres, by cutting off all the sources of the supply of water, except that from the clouds. This kind of land is very porous and permeable, and readily parts with its water, and is easily drained; so that the frequent drains necessary on uplands, are often quite unnecessary. Many instances are given, of the effect of single deep drains through such tracts, in lowering the water in wells, or entirely drying them, at considerable distances from the field of operation.
This drain needs to be deep, so it must also be wide and sloped to stay clear. It should curve around to follow the upland line to the outlet. In England, it's often been found that a single drain, six or eight feet deep, can completely drain a piece of land of twenty to thirty acres by cutting off all water sources except for rain. This kind of land is very porous and lets go of its water easily, making it straightforward to drain; therefore, the frequent drains needed on uplands are often not necessary. There are many examples of how a single deep drain can lower the water levels in wells or completely dry them out at considerable distances from where the drain is located.
When the surface-water and shallow springs have thus been cut off, the drainer will soon be able to determine, whether he has effected a cure of his dropsical patient. Often it will be found, that deep seated springs burst up in the middle of these low tracts, furnishing good and pure water for use. These, being supplied by high and distant fountains, run under our deepest drains, and find vent through some fracture of the subsoil. They diffuse their ice-cold water through the soil, and prevent the growth[364] of all valuable vegetation. To these, we must apply Elkington's system, and hit them right in the eye! by running a deep drain from some side or central drain, straight to them, and drawing off the water low enough beneath the surface to prevent injury. A small covered drain with two-inch pipes, will usually be sufficient to afford an outlet to any such spring.
When the surface water and shallow springs have been cut off, the drainer will soon be able to tell whether he has cured his dropsy patient. Often, it will be found that deep springs burst up in the middle of these low areas, providing good and clean water for use. These springs, supplied by higher and distant sources, flow underneath our deepest drains and find an outlet through some fracture in the subsoil. They spread their ice-cold water through the soil and stop the growth[364] of valuable vegetation. To address this, we need to use Elkington's system and tackle it head-on! by running a deep drain from a side or central drain directly to them and pulling the water low enough beneath the surface to prevent damage. A small covered drain with two-inch pipes is usually enough to provide an outlet for any such spring.
When we have thus disposed of the water from the surface-flow, the shallow springs and the deep springs, and given vent to the water accumulated and ponded in the low places, we have then accomplished all that is peculiar to this kind of drainage. We have still the water from the clouds, which is twice as much as will evaporate from a land-surface, to provide for. We assume that this cannot pass directly down by percolation, because the subsoil is already saturated; and therefore, even if all the other sources of wetness are cut off, we shall still have a tract of land too wet for wheat and corn. If the swamp be very small, these main ditches may sufficiently drain it; but if it be extensive, they probably will not. We have seen that we have some eighteen or twenty inches of water to be disposed of by drainage; so much that evaporation cannot remove consistently with good cultivation; and, although this amount might, in a very deep peaty soil, percolate to a great distance laterally, to find a drain, yet in shallow soil resting on a retentive subsoil, drains might be necessary at distances similar to those adopted on wet upland fields. To this part of the operation, we should, therefore, apply the ordinary principles of drainage, putting in covered drains with tiles, if possible, at four feet depth or more, ordinarily, and at distances of from forty to sixty feet, although four-foot drains at even one hundred feet distance, in peat and black mud, might often be found sufficient.
Once we've dealt with the surface water, the shallow springs, and the deep springs, and have released the water that has accumulated in the low areas, we’ve done everything specific to this type of drainage. We still need to manage the water from the clouds, which is twice as much as what can evaporate from the land. We assume this water can't seep down through the soil because the subsoil is already saturated. So, even if we block all other sources of wetness, we will still have an area too wet for wheat and corn. If the swamp is very small, the main ditches might drain it enough; but if it’s large, they probably won't. We’ve noted that there's about eighteen to twenty inches of water that needs to be drained, which is too much for good cultivation. Although this amount might seep into deeper layers of very peaty soil to find a drain, in shallow soil sitting on a water-retaining subsoil, drains may be needed at distances similar to those used in wet upland fields. We should then apply standard drainage practices here, installing covered drains with tiles if possible, typically at a depth of four feet or more, and spaced forty to sixty feet apart, although four-foot drains spaced up to one hundred feet apart could work in peat and black mud.
Through the kindness of Edmund Ruffin, Esq., of Virginia,[365] we have been furnished with three elaborate and valuable essays, on the drainage and treatment of flat and wet lands in lower Virginia and North Carolina, published in the Transactions of the Virginia State Agricultural Society, for 1857. The principal feature of his system is based upon his correct knowledge of the geological formation of that district; of the fact in particular, that, underlying the whole of that low country, there is a bed of pure sand lying nearly level, and filled with water, which may be drawn down by a few large deep drains, thus relieving the surface-soil of surplus water, by comprehensive but simple means.
Thanks to the generosity of Edmund Ruffin, Esq., from Virginia,[365] we have received three detailed and valuable essays on draining and managing flat and wet lands in lower Virginia and North Carolina, published in the Transactions of the Virginia State Agricultural Society in 1857. The main aspect of his approach is grounded in his accurate understanding of the geological makeup of that area; notably, there is a layer of pure sand that lies almost flat beneath the entire low country, filled with water that can be drained with a few large, deep ditches, thereby relieving the surface soil of excess water using practical yet comprehensive methods.
We have before referred to Mr. Ruffin as the publisher, more than twenty years ago, of "Elkington's Theory and Practice of Draining, &c., by Johnstone;" and we find in his recent essays, evidence of how thoroughly practical he has made the system of Elkington in his own State. Indeed, we know of no other American writer who records any instance of marked success in the use of Elkington's peculiar idea of releasing pent up waters by boring. Mr. Ruffin, however, has applied, with great success, this principle of operation, to the saturated sand-beds which underlie the tracts of low land in his district of country. These water-beds in the sand lie at depths varying usually from four to eight feet below the surface. This surface stratum is comparatively compact, and very slowly pervious to water before it is drained. The water from below, is constantly pressing slowly up through it, of course preventing any downward percolation of the rain-water. By running deep drains at wide intervals, and boring down through this surface stratum with an auger, the pent up water below finds vent and gushes up in copious springs through the holes, and flows off without coming nearer to the surface than the bottom of the drains; thus relieving the pressure upward, and lowering the water-line in proportion to the depth of the drains.[366]
We have previously mentioned Mr. Ruffin as the publisher, over twenty years ago, of "Elkington's Theory and Practice of Draining, &c., by Johnstone;" and in his recent essays, we see clear evidence of how effectively he has implemented Elkington's system in his own state. In fact, we are not aware of any other American writer who has documented a significant success in applying Elkington's unique concept of releasing trapped water by boring. Mr. Ruffin has, however, successfully applied this operational principle to the saturated sand-beds that lie beneath the low-lying areas in his region. These water-beds in the sand usually lie between four to eight feet below the surface. The surface layer is quite compact and very slowly allows water to pass through before it’s drained. The water below constantly pushes up through it, which naturally prevents any downward movement of rainwater. By creating deep drains at wide intervals and boring through this surface layer with an auger, the trapped water below is released and flows up in abundant springs through the openings, draining away without coming nearer to the surface than the bottom of the drains; thus relieving the upward pressure and lowering the water level in proportion to the depth of the drains.[366]
Mr. Ruffin gives an instance of the drying up of a well half a mile distant, by cutting a deep drain into this sand-bed, and thus lowering its water-line.
Mr. Ruffin gives an example of a well drying up half a mile away because a deep drain was cut into this sand-bed, lowering its water level.
No doubt in many localities in our country, a competent geological knowledge may detect formations where this principle of drainage may be applied with perfect success, and with great economy.
No doubt in many areas of our country, a solid understanding of geology can identify formations where this drainage principle can be applied successfully and cost-effectively.
Is there danger of over-draining swamp lands? In speaking of the injury by drainage, we have treated of this question.
Is there a risk of over-draining swamp lands? In discussing the harm caused by drainage, we have addressed this question.
Our conclusions may be briefly stated here. There is an impression among English writers, that light peaty soils may be too much drained; but many distinguished drainers doubt the proposition. No doubt there are soils too porous and light to be productive, when first drained. They may require a season or two to become compact, and may require sand, or clay, or gravel, to give them the requisite density; but these soils would, we believe, be usually unproductive if shallow drained.
Our conclusions can be summed up here. There's a belief among English writers that light, peaty soils can be overly drained; however, many respected drainers question this idea. It's true that some soils are too porous and light to be productive right after being drained. They might need a season or two to become more compact and may need sand, clay, or gravel to achieve the necessary density; but we believe that these soils would generally be unproductive if drained too shallowly.
In short, our idea is, that, in general, a soil so constituted as to be productive under any circumstances, will retain, by attraction, moisture enough for the crops, though intersected by four-foot drains at usual distances; and that cold water pumped up to the roots from a stagnant pool at the bottom, is not, either in nature or art, a successful method of irrigation.
In short, our idea is that, generally, soil that is well-structured to be productive in any situation will hold enough moisture for the crops by attraction, even if it's cut through by four-foot drains at regular intervals; and that pumping cold water up to the roots from a stagnant pool at the bottom is not a successful method of irrigation, either in nature or in practice.
Still we believe that peaty soils may be usually drained at greater distances, or by shallower drains, than most uplands, because of their more porous nature; and we should advise inexperienced persons not to proceed with a lavish expenditure of labor to put in parallel drains at short distances, till they have watched, for a season, the operation of a cheaper system. They may thus attain the desired object, with the smallest expense. If the first drains are judiciously placed, and are found insufficient, others may be laid between the first, until the drainage is complete.
Still, we believe that peaty soils can usually be drained at greater distances or with shallower drains than most uplands, due to their more porous nature. We advise inexperienced individuals not to spend a lot of time and effort installing parallel drains too closely together until they’ve observed how a less expensive system works for a season. This way, they can achieve their goal at the lowest cost. If the initial drains are placed wisely but aren’t sufficient, additional drains can be installed between the first ones until the drainage is complete.
CHAPTER XXIV[367]
AMERICAN EXPERIMENTS IN DRAINAGE—DRAINAGE IN IRELAND.
Statement of B. F. Nourse, of Maine.—Statement of Shedd and Edson, of Mass.—Statement of H. F. French, of New Hampshire.—Letter of Wm. Boyle, Albert Model Farm, Glasnevin, Ireland.
Statement of B. F. Nourse, from Maine.—Statement of Shedd and Edson, from Massachusetts.—Statement of H. F. French, from New Hampshire.—Letter from Wm. Boyle, Albert Model Farm, Glasnevin, Ireland.
It was part of the original plan of this work, to give a large number of statements from American farmers of their success in drainage; but, although the instances are abundant, want of space limits us to a few. These are given with such diagrams as will not only make them intelligible, but, it is hoped, will also furnish good examples of the arrangement and modes of executing drains, and of laying them down upon plans for future reference. The mode adopted by Shedd and Edson, of indicating the size of the pipes used, by the number of dots in the lines of drains, is original and convenient. It will be seen by close attention, that a two-inch pipe is denoted by dots in pairs, a three-inch pipe by dots in threes, and so on.
It was part of the original plan for this work to include many accounts from American farmers about their success with drainage; however, due to space limitations, we can only provide a few. These are presented with diagrams that aim to clarify the information and hopefully serve as good examples of how to arrange and execute drains, as well as how to lay them out for future reference. The method used by Shedd and Edson to represent the size of the pipes with the number of dots in the lines of drains is both original and practical. If you pay close attention, you'll notice that a two-inch pipe is indicated by pairs of dots, a three-inch pipe by groups of three dots, and so forth.
It is believed that Mr. Nourse's experiment is one of the most thorough and successful works of drainage yet executed in America. His plan is upon page 195.
It is thought that Mr. Nourse's experiment is one of the most comprehensive and successful drainage projects ever carried out in America. His plan can be found on page 195.
STATEMENT OF B. F. NOURSE, ESQ.
Goodales Corner, Orrington, Me.,
Sept. 1st, 1858.
Goodale's Corner, Orrington, ME.,
Sept. 1, 1858.
My dear Sir:—So much depends upon the preliminary surveys and "levels" for conducting works of thorough-draining and irrigation cheaply, yet to obtain the most beneficial results, that a competent person,[368] such as an engineer or practiced land-drainer, should be employed to make them, if one can be obtained. Unfortunately for me, when I began this operation, some years ago, there were no such skilled persons in the country, or I could learn of none professionally such, and was forced to do my own engineering. Having thus practically acquired some knowledge of it, I use and enjoy a Summer vacation from other pursuits, in the prosecution of this; and this employment, for the last few weeks, has delayed my answer to your inquiries. Nor could I sooner arrive at the figures of cost, extent, &c., of this season's work.
Dear Sir,—So much relies on the initial surveys and "levels" for carrying out effective drainage and irrigation cheaply while still achieving the best outcomes, that it's essential to hire a qualified person, [368] like an engineer or an experienced land-drainer, if available. Unfortunately, when I started this project several years ago, there were no skilled professionals in the country, or I couldn't find any, so I had to handle the engineering myself. Having gained some practical knowledge in the process, I now take a Summer break from my other work to focus on this. This work has delayed my response to your inquiries for the past few weeks. I also couldn't provide the cost estimates, extent, etc., of this season's work any sooner.
This is expected to be completed in ten days, and then I shall have laid, of
This is expected to be done in ten days, and then I will have laid, of
Stone drains, including mains | 702 | rods |
Tile drains (two inches, or larger) | 1043 | " |
In all | 1745 | " |
or, about five and one-half miles, laying dry, satisfactorily, about thirty-five acres. The character and extent of the work will better appear by reference to the plan of the farm which I send with this for your inspection.
or, about five and a half miles, laying dry, satisfactorily, about thirty-five acres. The character and extent of the work will be clearer by looking at the farm plan I’m sending along for you to check out.
The earlier portion was fairly described by the Committee of the Bangor Hort. Soc.—(See Report, for 1856, of the Maine Board of Agriculture.) It was far too costly, as usual in works of a novel character conducted without practical knowledge. No part of my draining, even that of this season, has been done so cheaply as it ought to be done in Maine, and will be done when tiles can be bought at fair prices near at hand. I call your attention particularly to this, because the magnitude of the cost, as I represent it, ought not to be taken as a necessary average, or standard outlay per acre, by any one contemplating similar improvement, when almost any farmer can accomplish it equally well at far less cost. My unnecessary expenditures will not have been in vain, if they serve as a finger-post to point others in a profitable way.
The earlier section was accurately described by the Committee of the Bangor Hort. Soc.—(See Report, for 1856, of the Maine Board of Agriculture.) It was way too expensive, as is usually the case with new projects that lack practical experience. None of my drainage work, even this season's, has been done as affordably as it should be in Maine, which will change once tiles can be purchased at reasonable prices locally. I want to highlight this because the high cost I've experienced shouldn’t be considered a standard cost per acre by anyone looking to make similar improvements when almost any farmer can achieve it much more economically. My unnecessary spending won’t be in vain if it helps guide others in a more profitable direction.
My land had upon its surface, and mingled in its super soil, a large quantity of stones, various in size, from the huge boulders, requiring several blasts of powder to reduce them to movable size, to the rubble stones which were shoveled from the cart into the drains. To make clean fields all these had to be removed, besides the many "heaps" which had been accumulated by the industry of my predecessors. A tile-drain needs no addition of stone above the pipe; indeed, the stone may be a positive injury, as harboring field vermin, or, if allowed to come within two feet of the surface, as obstructing deep tillage, and favoring the access of particles of soil upon or into the tile with the[369] rapid access of water which they promote. Carefully placed to the depth of six or eight inches in a four-foot drain, quite small stones are, perhaps, useful, and they certainly facilitate the drawing of water from the surface. Such was, and still is, with many, the prescribed method of best drainage in Scotland, and some parts of England. The increased cost of adding the stone above the tile is obvious; and when the width of that drain is enlarged to receive them, the cost is materially enhanced. Yet such has been my practice, at first, under the impression of its necessity, and all the time from a desire to put to use, and out of sight, the small stones with which I was favored in such abundance. The entire cost of moving, and bringing more than 2,500 heavy loads of stone, is included in the cost of drains, as set down for the 1,745 rods.
My land had a lot of stones mixed into the topsoil, varying in size from huge boulders that needed several blasts of powder to break down into movable pieces, to the rubble stones that were shoveled from the cart into the drains. To have clear fields, all of these had to be removed, along with the many "heaps" that my predecessors had accumulated. A tile drain doesn’t need any stones above the pipe; in fact, stones can be a problem because they attract field pests, or if they're within two feet of the surface, they can hinder deep tillage and allow soil particles to block the tile, along with the quick access of water that they encourage. When placed carefully at a depth of six or eight inches in a four-foot drain, smaller stones might be useful and definitely help draw water from the surface. This has been, and still is for many, the recommended method for effective drainage in Scotland and some parts of England. The additional cost of putting stones above the tile is clear, and as the width of that drain increases to accommodate them, the cost goes up significantly. Yet, I initially used this method, thinking it was necessary, and continued to do so out of a desire to use and hide the small stones that I had in such abundance. The total cost of moving and bringing over 2,500 heavy loads of stone is included in the cost of the drains, as noted for the 1,745 rods.
Including this part of expense, which is never necessary with tile, and cannot be incurred in plain clay soils, or clay loams free of stones, the last 700 rods cost an average of 97 cents per rod completed. This includes the largest mains; of which, one of 73 rods was opened four feet wide at bottom of the trench, of which the channel capacity is 18 × 18 = 324 square inches, and others 110 rods of three and one-half and three feet width at bottom, all these mains being laid entirely with stone. The remainder of the 700 rods was laid with two-inch tile, which cost at the farm eighteen dollars per 1,000. These last were opened four rods apart, and lay dry about seventeen acres, at a cost, including the mains, of $678, or $40 per acre. In this is included every day's labor of man and beast, and all the incidental expenses, nothing being contributed by the farm, which is under lease.
Including this part of the expense, which is never necessary with tile, and can't be incurred in plain clay soils or clay loams free of stones, the last 700 rods cost an average of 97 cents per completed rod. This includes the largest mains; one of those mains was 73 rods long and opened four feet wide at the bottom of the trench, with a channel capacity of 18 × 18 = 324 square inches, along with others measuring 110 rods that were three and a half and three feet wide at the bottom—all of these mains were laid entirely with stone. The remainder of the 700 rods was laid with two-inch tile, which cost the farm eighteen dollars per 1,000. These tiles were opened four rods apart and drained about seventeen acres, at a total cost, including the mains, of $678, or $40 per acre. This amount includes every day’s labor of man and beast, as well as all incidental expenses, with nothing contributed by the farm, which is leased.
I infer that an intelligent farmer, beginning aright, and availing himself of the use of team and farm labor, when they can best be spared from other work—as in the dry season, after haying—or paying fair prices for digging his ditches only, and doing the rest of the work from the farm, can drain thoroughly at a cost of $20 per acre, drains four rods apart, and four feet deep; or at $25 per acre, forty feet apart, and three feet nine inches deep.
I conclude that a smart farmer, starting off correctly and taking advantage of team and farm labor when they’re most available—like during the dry season after haying—or paying reasonable rates for just digging his ditches and handling the rest of the work himself, can effectively drain the land at a cost of $20 per acre, with drains four rods apart and four feet deep; or for $25 per acre, with drains forty feet apart and three feet nine inches deep.
My subsoil is very hard, requiring constant use of the pick, and sharpening of the picks every day, so that the labor of loosening the earth was one-third or one-half more than the throwing out with a shovel. The price paid per rod, for opening only, to the depth of three and a half feet (or, perhaps, three and three-quarters average,) of a width for laying tile, was 25 cents per rod. At this price, the industrious men, skillful with tools, earned $1.12 to $1.25 per day, besides[370] board; and they threw out one-third more earth than was really necessary, for "room to work" as they said. But they labored hard, 14 hours per day. The same men, working in a soil free from stones, and an easier subsoil, would, in the same time, open from 50 to 100 per cent. more length of ditch.
My subsoil is really tough, so I have to constantly use the pick and sharpen it every day. This makes the work of loosening the earth take one-third to one-half more effort than just shoveling it out. For digging down to a depth of three and a half feet (or maybe three and three-quarters on average) and a width to lay tile, the pay was 25 cents per rod. At this rate, hardworking men who were skilled with tools made $1.12 to $1.25 a day, plus[370] board. They also moved out one-third more earth than necessary, as they called it “room to work.” But they worked hard, 14 hours a day. Those same men, if working in soil without rocks and an easier subsoil, could open 50 to 100 percent more length of ditch in the same amount of time.
The greater part of these drains were laid four rods apart. When first trying this distance upon a field, of which the soil was called "springy and cold," and was always too wet in the Spring and early Summer for plowing, a partial, rather than "thorough" drainage was attempted, with the design, at some future day, to lay intermediate drains. The execution of that design may yet appear expedient, although the condition of soil already obtained, is satisfactory beyond expectation.
The majority of these drains were laid four rods apart. When we first tried this distance on a field with "springy and cold" soil, which was always too wet in the spring and early summer for plowing, we aimed for partial rather than "thorough" drainage, planning to add intermediate drains later on. Implementing that plan might still make sense, even though the current state of the soil is surprisingly satisfactory.
Owing to the excess of water that saturated the soil in Spring and Fall, the former proprietors of the farm had not attempted the cultivation of the field alluded to, for many years. Originally producing heavy crops of hay, it had been mowed for thirty years or more, and was a good specimen of "exhausted land," yielding one-half or three-fourths of a ton of hay per acre. This field is designated in the plan, as the "barley field, 1858," lies south-west of the dwelling-house, and contains nearly six acres. Its northerly half, being the lower end of the field, was drained in 1855, having been Summer-plowed, and sowed with buckwheat, which was turned under, when in flower, as a fallow crop. The other half was drained in 1856; plowed and subsoiled the same Fall. In 1857, nearly the whole field was planted with roots—potatoes, rutabagas, mangolds, carrots, English turnips, &c.—and one acre in corn. For these crops, fair dressings of manure were applied—say ten or twelve cartloads of barn-manure plowed in, and one hundred pounds of either guano or bone-dust harrowed in, or strewed in the drill, for each acre; about fifteen loads per acre of seasoned muck or peat were also plowed in. There was a good yield of all the roots; for the corn, the season was unfavorable. Last Spring, a light dressing of manure, but all that we could afford, was applied, the whole well ploughed, harrowed, seeded to grass with barley, harrowed, and rolled. The barley was taken off last week; and, from the five and three-quarter acres, seventeen heavy loads were hauled into the barn, each estimated to exceed a ton in weight. The grain from a measured acre was put apart to be separately threshed, and I will advise of its yield when ascertained.[A] This was said, by the many farmers who saw it,[371] including some from the Western States, to be the "handsomest field of grain" they had ever seen. The young grass looks well; and I hope, next Summer, to report a good cut of "hay from drained land."
Because the soil was saturated with too much water in Spring and Fall, the previous owners of the farm hadn’t tried to cultivate the field in question for many years. It used to produce heavy crops of hay and had been mowed for over thirty years, making it a good example of "exhausted land," yielding about half to three-quarters of a ton of hay per acre. This field is labeled on the plan as the "barley field, 1858," situated southwest of the house, and spans nearly six acres. The northern half, which is the lower end of the field, was drained in 1855, plowed in the summer, and sown with buckwheat, which was turned under when it was in bloom as a fallow crop. The other half was drained in 1856, plowed, and subsoiled that fall. In 1857, almost the entire field was planted with root vegetables—potatoes, rutabagas, mangolds, carrots, English turnips, etc.—and one acre was devoted to corn. For these crops, decent amounts of manure were used—around ten to twelve cartloads of barn manure incorporated into the soil, plus one hundred pounds of either guano or bone meal either mixed in or placed in the drill for each acre; about fifteen loads per acre of seasoned muck or peat were also worked into the soil. There was a good yield of all the root vegetables; however, the corn crop was affected by unfavorable weather. Last Spring, we applied a light dressing of manure—which was all we could afford—then plowed, harrowed, seeded to grass with barley, harrowed again, and rolled. The barley was harvested last week, yielding seventeen heavy loads from the five and three-quarter acres, with each load estimated to weigh over a ton. The grain from one measured acre was set aside for separate threshing, and I will report its yield once determined. Many farmers, including some from the Western States, noted that this was the "finest field of grain" they had ever seen. The young grass looks promising, and I hope to be able to report a good hay cutting next Summer from the drained land.
Last Winter, there were no snows to cover the ground for sleighing until March; and, lying uncovered, our fields were all frozen to an unusual depth. But, our drains did not cease to run through the Winter. And Mr. O. W. Straw, who works the farm, and was requested to note the facts accurately, wrote to me this Spring, "the frost came out of the drained land about one week first" (that is, earlier than from the undrained land adjacent); and, "in regard to working condition, the drained land was in advance of the undrained, ten days, at least." The absence of snow permitting this unusual depth of frost, had caused a rare equality of condition the last Spring, because, until the frost was out, the drains would not draw surface-water. Usually, when early snows have fallen to protect the ground, and it remains covered through the Winter, the frost goes off with the snow, or earlier, and, within a few days, the land becomes in good condition for plowing—quite two weeks earlier than the driest of my undrained fields, or any others in the vicinity.
Last winter, there was no snow to cover the ground for sledding until March, and our fields were all frozen unusually deep. But, our drains kept running through the winter. Mr. O. W. Straw, who manages the farm and was asked to track the details carefully, wrote to me this spring, "the frost came out of the drained land about a week earlier" (that is, sooner than the adjacent undrained land); and, "in terms of working condition, the drained land was ahead of the undrained by at least ten days." The lack of snow allowed for this unusual frost depth, resulting in nearly equal conditions last spring because, until the frost melted, the drains wouldn’t draw surface water. Typically, when early snow covers the ground and stays throughout winter, the frost thaws with the snow, or earlier, and within a few days, the land becomes suitable for plowing—at least two weeks earlier than the driest of my undrained fields or any others in the area.
These remarks apply to land in which the drains are four rods apart. The farm lies with an inclination northerly and easterly, the fall varying from 1 in 33 to 1 in 8; that in most of the drains laid four rods apart, being about 1 in 25. The drains in the "barley field" fall 1 in 27, average, all affording a rapid run of water, which, from the mode of construction, and subsequent subsoiling, finds ready access to the drain-channels. Hence, we never observe running water upon the surface of any of our drained lands, either during the heaviest rains, or when snows are melting, and the wasteful "washing" from the surface that formerly injured our plowed grounds, has ceased.
These comments relate to land where the drains are four rods apart. The farm slopes to the north and east, with a fall ranging from 1 in 33 to 1 in 8; most of the drains, spaced four rods apart, have a fall of about 1 in 25. The drains in the "barley field" have an average fall of 1 in 27, which ensures a quick flow of water that, due to the construction method and subsequent subsoiling, easily reaches the drain channels. As a result, we never see running water on the surface of our drained fields, even during heavy rain or when snow is melting, and the damaging "washing" from the surface that used to harm our plowed fields has stopped.
It is fair to suppose that it is the considerable descent which renders the drains so effectual at four rods apart; and that where there is but slight fall, other circumstances being the same, it would be necessary to lay drains much nearer, for equal service.
It’s reasonable to believe that the significant slope makes the drains effective when placed four rods apart; and that in areas with a minimal slope, assuming all other factors are equal, it would be necessary to place the drains much closer together to achieve the same efficiency.
The results of one man's experiments, or practice, whether of success or failure, should not be conclusive to another, unless all the circumstances are identical. These are ever varying from one farm to another; and only a right understanding of the natural laws or principles brought into use, can determine what is best in each case. Therefore, a description of the methods I have used, or any detailed suggestions I may give, as the result of experience, would not be worth much, unless tested by the well-ascertained rules applicable to them, which men of[372] science and skill have adopted and proved, by the immensely extended draining operations in Great Britain, and those begun in this country. These are now given in elaborate treatises, and quoted in agricultural journals. But they should be made familiar to every farmer, in all their practical details, and with methods suited to our country, where labor is dear and land cheap, as contrasted with the reversed conditions in England, where the practice of "thorough-draining" has so generally obtained, and has so largely improved the conditions of both landlord and tenant. Your book will do this, and thus do a great good; for draining will greatly enlarge the productive capacity of our land, and, consequently, its value, while it will render labor more effective and more remunerative to the employer and the employed.
The results of one person's experiments, whether successful or not, shouldn't be considered definitive for someone else unless all the circumstances are the same. These circumstances always vary from one farm to another, and only a proper understanding of the natural laws or principles involved can determine what works best in each situation. So, a description of the methods I've used or any detailed suggestions I might offer based on experience wouldn't be very valuable unless they are tested against the well-established rules created by skilled individuals in science, which have been proven through extensive drainage operations in Great Britain and those started in this country. These methods are now presented in detailed treatises and referenced in agricultural journals. However, they should be well-known to every farmer, with practical details and methods tailored to our country, where labor is expensive and land is cheap, unlike in England, where "thorough-draining" has become common and has significantly improved conditions for both landlords and tenants. Your book will accomplish this and therefore do a great service; because drainage will significantly increase the productive capacity of our land, thus enhancing its value, while also making labor more effective and more rewarding for both employers and employees.
The fact of increased production from a given quantity of land, by draining, being ascertained beyond question, and the measure of that increase, at its minimum, being more than the interest at six per cent. upon the sum required to effect it—even at $50 per acre—the question of expediency is answered. To the owner of tillage lands there is no other such safe, sure, and profitable investment for his money. He lodges it in a bank that will never suspend payments, and from which better than six per cent. dividend can be received annually.
The increased production from a certain amount of land through drainage is clearly proven, and the minimum increase surpasses the six percent interest on the cost of doing it—even at $50 per acre. This answers the question of whether it's a good idea. For someone who owns farmland, there’s no other investment that is as safe, reliable, and profitable for their money. It’s like putting it in a bank that will always pay out and yields more than a six percent annual return.
Very truly, yours, B. F. Nourse.
Hon. H. F. French, Exeter, N. H.
Very truly yours, B.F. Nourse.
Hon. H. F. French, Exeter, NH.
STATEMENT OF SHEDD AND EDSON.
Boston, February 1, 1859.
Boston, February 1, 1859.
Dear Sir:—The plan for a system of thorough drainage, a copy of which we send you herewith, was executed for Mr. I. P. Rand, of Roxbury.
Dear [Name]:—The proposal for a complete drainage system, which we are sending you along with this, was created for Mr. I. P. Rand, from Roxbury.
An outfall was obtained, at the expense of considerable labor, by deepening the Roxbury and Dorchester Brook for a distance of nearly a quarter of a mile, about four hundred feet of which was through a rocky bottom, which required some blasting. The fall thus obtained was only about two inches in the whole distance.
An outfall was achieved, after a lot of hard work, by deepening the Roxbury and Dorchester Brook for almost a quarter of a mile. About four hundred feet of this section had a rocky bottom, which needed some blasting. The total drop gained was only about two inches over the entire distance.
The fall which can be obtained for the main drain is less than two inches per hundred feet, but the lateral drains entering into the main, will have a fall varying from two inches to a foot per hundred.
The drop for the main drain should be less than two inches for every hundred feet, while the lateral drains that connect to the main one will have a drop ranging from two inches to a foot per hundred feet.
The contour lines, or lines traced along the ground, intersecting points on an equal level, are drawn on this plan, showing a fall of four-tenths of a foot, each line being in every part four-tenths of a foot lower than the line above it. Where the lines are near together, the fall is greater, as a less horizontal distance is passed over before reaching a point which is four-tenths lower than the line above.
The contour lines, or lines marked on the ground that connect points at the same elevation, are shown on this plan, indicating a drop of four-tenths of a foot. Each line is consistently four-tenths of a foot lower than the one above it. When the lines are close together, the drop is steeper, as less horizontal distance needs to be covered to reach a point that is four-tenths lower than the line above.
[373]It will be seen by the plan, that the fall in the line occupied by the main drain is very slight, while the side drains have a fall much greater.
[373]The plan shows that the drop in the line taken by the main drain is minimal, while the side drains have a much steeper drop.
The lateral drains are run in the line of steepest descent, which is, of course, at right angles to the general direction of the contour lines.
The lateral drains are installed along the steepest slope, which is, of course, at a right angle to the overall direction of the contour lines.
The water from the entire system is collected, and escapes at one outlet into the brook.
The water from the whole system is collected and flows out through one outlet into the brook.
A peep hole is placed at the intersection of the sub-main drain with the main, which commands about one-half the entire area—the other, half is commanded by the outlet.
A peep hole is located where the sub-main drain meets the main drain, which occupies about half of the total area—the other half is occupied by the outlet.
Two-inch tile will be laid in the lateral drains, and three, four, and five-inch in the sub-main and main.
Two-inch tiles will be installed in the side drains, and three, four, and five-inch tiles will be used in the sub-main and main sections.
It is quite indispensable, to the successful execution of a plan of drainage on land so level as this, that careful measurements be made on the ground with an engineer's level, and such a representation of its surface projected as will show to the eye at a glance what all the natural inclinations are. The work can then be laid out with ease in the best position, and executed in a systematic manner. The time and labor which is devoted to such an examination of the ground is well spent, and, with the knowledge gained by it, the work can be carried on with such economy as to save the original cost of the examination many times over.
It’s essential for successfully draining this flat land to take careful ground measurements with an engineer's level and create a surface map that clearly shows all the natural slopes. This way, the work can be laid out easily in the best spots and done systematically. The time and effort spent examining the ground is well worth it, as the insights gained will allow the project to be done efficiently, saving enough money to cover the initial cost of the examination multiple times over.
Very truly, yours, Shedd & Edson
Hon. H. F. French, Exeter, N. H.
Very truly yours, Shedd & Edson
Hon. H. F. French, Exeter, NH.
STATEMENT OF HENRY F. FRENCH, OF EXETER, N. H.
The drained field represented in the plan (Fig. 102), contains about eight acres. I purchased it in 1846. The upper part of it is sand, with underlying clay at depths of from four to ten feet. The field slopes towards the river, and, on the slope, the clay strata coming out to the surface, naturally bring out the water, so that the side hill was so wet as to produce cranberries—quite too wet for any hoed crop. At the foot of the hill the soil is a stiff clay, with veins of sand and gravel. Through the centre was a wet ravine, which served as a natural outlet for the springs, and which was so full of black alders as to make an excellent cover for woodcock. Until the land was drained, this ravine was impassable in the hay season even, except by a bridge which I built across it. Now it may be crossed at any season and at any point.
The drained field shown in the plan (Fig. 102) is about eight acres. I bought it in 1846. The upper part is sandy, with clay underneath at depths of four to ten feet. The field slopes toward the river, and on the slope, the clay layers reach the surface and naturally bring out the water, making the hillside too wet for any crops you’d hoe, leading to the growth of cranberries. At the bottom of the hill, the soil is hard clay with layers of sand and gravel. There’s a wet ravine going through the center that acts as a natural outlet for the springs and is so filled with black alders that it provides great cover for woodcock. Before the land was drained, this ravine was impossible to cross during hay season except by a bridge I built over it. Now, it can be crossed at any time and at any spot.
I first attempted to drain the wettest parts with brush drains, running them into the wet places merely, and succeeded in drying the land sufficiently to afford good crops of hay. I laid one brush-drain across[374] the brow of the hill, five feet deep, hoping to cut off all the water, which I supposed ran along upon the surface of the clay. This dried the land for a few rods, but the water still ruined the lower parts of the field, and the drain produced very little effect upon the land above it. In 1856, finding my brush drains quite insufficient, I thorough-drained the side-hill on the lower part of the plan at the reader's left hand, at fifty feet distances, up and down the slope, at an average of about four feet depth, going five feet deep on the brow of the hill, to cut through the brush-drain. I used two-inch sole-tiles for minors, and three-inch for the main.
I first tried to drain the wettest areas using brush drains, directing them into the wet spots, and managed to dry the land enough to grow good hay crops. I placed one brush drain across[374] the top of the hill, five feet deep, hoping to intercept all the water that I thought was flowing along the surface of the clay. This dried out the land for a short stretch, but the water still damaged the lower parts of the field, and the drain hardly made any difference to the land above it. In 1856, realizing my brush drains weren’t good enough, I fully drained the hillside on the lower part of the plan to the reader's left at fifty-foot intervals, up and down the slope, at an average depth of about four feet, digging five feet deep at the top of the hill to cut through the brush drain. I used two-inch sole tiles for the smaller drains and three-inch tiles for the main drain.
The effect was instantaneous. The land which, in the Spring of 1856, had been so wet that it could not, even though partially drained with brush-drains, be planted till the 5th of June, was, in 1857, ready to work as soon as the snow was off. My farm journal says, under date of April 6th, "plowed drained land with double plow two days after a heavy storm—dry enough." I spent that Summer in Europe. The land was planted with corn, which produced a heavy crop. I find an entry in my journal, on my return, "My drained land has been in good condition—neither too wet nor too dry—all Summer."
The effect was immediate. The land which, in the spring of 1856, had been so wet that it couldn't be planted until June 5th, even though it had been partially drained, was, in 1857, ready to work as soon as the snow melted. My farm journal notes on April 6th, "plowed drained land with a double plow two days after a heavy storm—dry enough." I spent that summer in Europe. The land was planted with corn, which yielded a large crop. I found an entry in my journal upon my return, "My drained land has been in great condition—neither too wet nor too dry—all summer."
In the Fall of 1857, I laid about 170 rods in other parts of the field, at similar depths and distances, and in 1858 completed the upper part, on which is an orchard of apple trees. A part of this orchard was originally so wet as to kill the trees the first year, but by brush-drains I dried it enough to keep the next set alive. There was no water visible at the surface, and the land was dry enough for corn and potatoes; still the trees looked badly, and many were winter-killed. I had learned the formation of the earth about my premises, of which I had at first no adequate conception, and was satisfied that no fruit tree could flourish with its feet in cold water, even in Winter. All nursery-men and fruit-growers agree, that land must be well drained for fruit. I therefore laid four-foot tile drains between the rows of trees, in this apparently dry sand. We found abundance of water, in the driest season, at four feet, and it has never ceased to flow copiously.
In the fall of 1857, I laid out about 170 rods in other parts of the field, at similar depths and distances, and in 1858 completed the upper part, which has an apple orchard. Some of this orchard was originally so wet that it killed the trees the first year, but I installed brush-drains to dry it out enough to keep the next set alive. There was no visible water on the surface, and the land was dry enough for corn and potatoes; still, the trees looked unhealthy, and many died in winter. I learned about the soil formation around my property, which I initially didn’t fully understand, and I realized that no fruit tree could thrive with its roots in cold water, even in winter. All nursery owners and fruit growers agree that land must be well-drained for fruit. So, I installed four-foot tile drains between the rows of trees in this seemingly dry sand. We found plenty of water at four feet deep, even in the driest season, and it has continued to flow abundantly.
I measured accurately the discharge of water from the main which receives the drainage of about one and a half acres of the orchard, at a time when it gave, what seemed to me an average quantity for the Winter months, when the earth was frozen solid, and found it to be about 480 barrels per day! The estimate was made by holding a bucket, which contained ten quarts, under the outlet, when it was found that it would fill in fifteen seconds, equal to ten gallons per minute; and six hundred gallons, or twenty barrels per hour, and four hundred and eighty barrels per day.[375]
I accurately measured the flow of water from the main line, which collects drainage from about one and a half acres of the orchard, at a time when it seemed to be an average amount for the winter months when the ground was frozen solid. I found it to be about 480 barrels per day! I estimated this by holding a bucket that held ten quarts under the outlet, and it filled in fifteen seconds, which is about ten gallons per minute, or six hundred gallons, which is twenty barrels per hour, and four hundred and eighty barrels per day.[375]
I have seen the same drain discharge at least four times that quantity, at some times! The peep-holes give opportunity for inspection, and I find the result to be, that the water-table is kept down four feet below the surface at all times, except for a day or two after severe rain-storms.
I have seen the same drain release at least four times that amount on some occasions! The peep-holes allow for inspection, and I find that the water-table is kept four feet below the surface at all times, except for a day or two after heavy rainstorms.
There is an apparent want of system in this plan, partly to be attributed to my desire to conform somewhat to the line of the fences, and partly to the conformation of the land, which is quite uneven. At several points near the ravine, springs broke out, apparently from deep fountains, and short drains were run into them, to keep them below the surface.
There seems to be a lack of organization in this plan, partly due to my wish to align it somewhat with the fence lines, and partly because the land is quite uneven. At several spots near the ravine, springs emerged, seemingly from deep sources, and short drains were created to keep them below the surface.
The general result has been, to convert wet land into early warm soil, fit for a garden, to render my place more dry and healthful, and to illustrate for the good of the community the entire efficiency of tile-drainage. The cost of this work throughout, I estimate at fifty cents per rod, reckoning labor at $1 per day, and tiles at $12 per thousand, and all the work by hand-tools. I think in a few years, we may do the same work at one-half this cost. Further views on this point are given in the chapter on the "Cost of Drainage."
The overall result has been to transform wet land into warm soil that's ready for a garden, making my property drier and healthier, and demonstrating the full benefits of tile drainage for the community. I estimate the total cost of this work at fifty cents per rod, with labor at $1 per day, tiles at $12 per thousand, and all the work done with hand tools. I believe that in a few years, we could complete the same work at half this cost. More details on this topic are provided in the chapter on "Cost of Drainage."
After our work was in press, we received from Mr. William Boyle, Farmer at the Albert Model Farm in Ireland, the paper which is given below, kindly sent in reply to a series of questions proposed by the author. The Albert Model Farm is one of the Government institutions for the promotion of agriculture, by the education of young men in the science and the practice of farming; and from what was apparent, by a single day's examination of the establishment in our visit to it in August, 1857, we are satisfied of its entire success. The crops then growing were equal, if not superior, to any we have seen in any country. Much of the land covered by those crops is drained land; and having confidence that the true principles of drainage for that country must be taught and practiced at this institution, we thought it might be instructive, as well as interesting to the farmers of America, to give them the means of comparison between the system there approved, and those others which we have described.[376]
After our work was published, we received a response from Mr. William Boyle, a farmer at the Albert Model Farm in Ireland. He sent us the paper below in reply to a series of questions from the author. The Albert Model Farm is one of the government institutions aimed at promoting agriculture by educating young men in the science and practice of farming. From what we observed during our one-day visit in August 1857, we are convinced of its complete success. The crops that were growing then were equal to, if not better than, any we’ve seen in other countries. Much of the land with those crops is drained land, and knowing that the correct principles of drainage for that country are taught and practiced at this institution, we believed it would be both informative and interesting for American farmers to compare their system with the others we have described.[376]
Had the paper been sooner received, we should have referred to it earlier in our book; yet coming as it does, after our work was mostly in type, we confess to some feeling of satisfaction, at the substantial coincidence of views entertained at the Albert Model Farm, with our own humble teachings. With many thanks to Mr. Boyle for his valuable letter, which we commend to our readers as a reliable exposition of the most approved principles of land-draining for Ireland, we give the paper entire:
Had we received the paper sooner, we would have mentioned it earlier in our book; however, since it arrived after most of our work was already in print, we can't help but feel a sense of satisfaction at how closely the views expressed at the Albert Model Farm align with our own modest teachings. We extend our gratitude to Mr. Boyle for his valuable letter, which we recommend to our readers as a trustworthy explanation of the most accepted principles of land-draining for Ireland. We present the paper in full:
Albert Model Farm, Glasnevin, Dublin,
January 31, 1859.
Albert Model Farm, Glasnevin, Dublin,
January 31, 1859.
To the Hon. Henry F. French, Exeter, N. H.:
To the Hon. Henry F. French, Exeter, NH:
Sir:—Your queries on land-drainage have been too long unanswered. I have now great pleasure in sending you, herewith, my views on the points noted. * * *
Hey there:—I've kept you waiting too long for my responses regarding land drainage. I’m happy to share my thoughts on the points you've mentioned. * * *
Pray excuse me for the delay in writing. I am, sir,
Your obliged and obedient servant, William Boyle.
Please excuse me for the delay in getting back to you. I am, sir,
Your thankful and loyal servant, William Boyle.
LAND DRAINAGE—REPLIES TO QUERIES, ETC.
Introductory observations. Ireland contains close on to twenty-one millions of acres, thirteen and a half millions of which were returned as "arable land," in 1841. By "Arterial" and thorough-drainage, &c., effected through loans granted by government, the extent of arable land has been increased to fifteen and a half millions of acres. The "Board of Works" has the management of the funds granted for drainage and land improvements generally, and competent inspectors are appointed to see that the works are properly executed. The proprietor, or farmer, who obtains a loan may, if competent, claim and obtain the appointment of overseer on his own property, and thus have an opportunity of economically expending the sum which he will have to repay (principal and interest) by twenty-two installments. The average cost of thorough-drainage, under the Board of Works, has been about £5 per statute acre. In 1847, when government granted the first loan for land-drainage, tiles were not so easily obtained as at present, nor was tile-drainage well understood in this country; and the greater part of the drains then made—and for some years after—were either sewered with stones, formed into a conduit of various dimensions, and covered over with finely-broken stones, or the latter were filled into the bottom of the drain, to about one foot in depth, as recommended by Smith, of[377] Deanston. The dimensions for minor drains, sewered with stones, were, usually, three and a half feet deep, fifteen inches wide at top, and three to four inches wide at bottom (distance apart being twenty-one feet); and the overseer carried about with him a wooden gauge, of a size to correspond, so that the workmen could see at a glance what they had to do. These drains are reported to have given general satisfaction; and they were cheaply made, as the stones were to be had in great abundance in almost every field. On new land, trenching was sometimes carried on simultaneously with the drainage; and it very often happened that the removal of the stones thus brought to the surface, was very expensive; but they were turned to profitable account in sewering drains and building substantial fences. In almost every case the drains were made in the direction of the greatest inclination, or fall of the land; and this is the practice followed throughout the country. Some exceptions occur on hill-sides, where I have seen the drains laid off at an acute angle with the line of inclination. It is not necessary that I should explain the scientific reasons for draining in the direction of the fall of the land, as that point has been fully treated of, and well illustrated, in your article already referred to. I shall now pass on to the Queries.
Introductory observations. Ireland has nearly twenty-one million acres of land, with thirteen and a half million classified as "arable land" in 1841. Through government loans that funded "arterial" and thorough drainage, the amount of arable land has increased to fifteen and a half million acres. The "Board of Works" manages the funds allocated for drainage and land improvements, and qualified inspectors are appointed to ensure that the projects are carried out correctly. A property owner or farmer who obtains a loan can, if qualified, request to be appointed as overseer on their own land, allowing them to spend the money they will repay (principal and interest) over twenty-two installments as efficiently as possible. The average cost for thorough drainage, under the Board of Works, has been about £5 per statute acre. In 1847, when the government first provided loans for land drainage, tiles were not as easily accessible as they are today, and the technique of tile drainage was not well understood in the country. Most of the drains built at that time—and for several years afterward—were either lined with stones, fashioned into a conduit of different sizes, and covered with finely broken stones, or the stones were placed in the bottom of the drain to about one foot deep, as recommended by Smith, of[377] Deanston. The specifications for smaller drains lined with stones were typically three and a half feet deep, fifteen inches wide at the top, and three to four inches wide at the bottom (with a spacing of twenty-one feet between them); and the overseer carried a wooden gauge that corresponded in size so that the workers could quickly see what needed to be done. These drains were reported to be generally effective and were cost-efficient to make, as stones were readily available in nearly every field. On new land, trenching was sometimes done at the same time as drainage, and it often turned out that removing the stones that came to the surface was quite costly; however, these stones were beneficial for sewering drains and constructing sturdy fences. In almost all instances, the drains were installed following the land's steepest slope or fall; this is the standard practice across the country. Some exceptions exist on hill-sides, where I have seen drains laid out at an acute angle to the fall of the land. I don't need to explain the scientific rationale for draining in the direction of the land’s slope, as that topic has been thoroughly covered and well illustrated in your previously referenced article. I will now move on to the Queries.
Depth of drains, and distance apart. There is still a great diversity of opinion on these points, and particularly in reference to the drainage of stiff clay soils; some of the most intelligent and practical farmers in this country hold to the opinion that, on such soils, the maximum depth should not exceed three feet, and the distance apart sixteen to twenty feet. On clay loams, having a subsoil more or less free, the general practice is, to make the drains three and a half to four feet deep, and at twenty-one to thirty feet apart. On lighter soils, having a free subsoil, four feet deep and forty feet apart are the usual limitations. This farm may be taken as a fair average of the land in Ireland, as a test for drainage; the soil is a deep clay loam; the subsoil a compact mixture of strong clay and calcareous gravel, almost free from stones. Thirty miles of drains have been made on the farm, the least distance apart being twenty-one feet, and the greatest distance thirty feet; the depth in every case, three and a half to four feet for minor drains. This drainage has given the greatest satisfaction; for although the greatest part of the work was performed by the Agricultural pupils, in training here, we have not had occasion to re-make a single drain, except in one instance, where the tiles got choked, and which I shall explain hereafter.
Depth of drains, and distance apart. There is still a wide range of opinions on these topics, especially regarding the drainage of heavy clay soils; some of the most knowledgeable and practical farmers in this country believe that, for such soils, the maximum depth should not exceed three feet, and the distance between drains should be sixteen to twenty feet. For clay loams with a subsoil that’s more or less permeable, the common practice is to dig the drains three and a half to four feet deep and place them twenty-one to thirty feet apart. For lighter soils with a free-draining subsoil, the standard depth is four feet and the usual distance is forty feet apart. This farm can be seen as a typical example of land in Ireland for drainage; the soil is a deep clay loam, and the subsoil consists of a compact mix of strong clay and calcareous gravel, almost free of stones. Thirty miles of drains have been installed on the farm, with the shortest distance between them being twenty-one feet and the longest being thirty feet; the depth for minor drains has consistently been three and a half to four feet. This drainage system has proven to be very effective; although most of the work was carried out by the Agricultural trainees here, we have only needed to redo one drain, which was due to tile blockage, and I will explain that later.
Tiles: Size, Shape, Draining, Capacity, &c. We use circular pipe tiles, of inch and a half bore, for all parallel drains whose length does[378] not exceed one hundred yards, and two-inch pipes for any additional length up to one hundred and fifty yards, the greatest length, in my opinion, a parallel drain should reach before discharging into a main or sub-main drain. We do not find it necessary to use collars on this farm, as we have firm ground to place the tiles on, and we can cut the drain to fit the tiles exactly. As regards the size of tiles for main and sub-main drains, that can only be regulated by the person in charge of the drainage at any particular place, after seeing the land opened up and the minor drains discharging. As a general rule, a circular pipe of three inches internal diameter will discharge the ordinary drainage of five or six statute acres, and give sufficient space for the circulation of air. It should be observed, however, that this applies to a district where the annual rain-fall is from twenty-six to thirty inches, that of all Ireland being about thirty-five inches; besides, we have not the immense falls of rain in a few hours that occur in other countries. All these points should be carefully considered in estimating the water-way for drainage. I have said that collars are not used with the tiles on this farm, as the bottom of the drains is quite firm and even; but, where the bed for the tile is soft, and the subsoil is of a shifting nature, then collars should be used in every case. Collars cost about half the price of tiles, which they are made to connect, so that the use of them adds one-third to the expense of the sewering material; and, as I have already pointed out, I think it quite unnecessary to use them where the subsoil is firm, and where the drain can be bottomed to fit the tile. Where large pipes are not to be had conveniently for sewering main or sub-drains, I find a proportional number of pipes of lesser diameter to answer perfectly. It is very desirable to provide branch pipes for connecting the minor with the main drains. The branch should be socketed to receive the end of the last tile in the minor drain, and the point of attachment to the main pipe may be on the top or on the side of the latter. If the branch be made to lead the water into the side of the main pipe, then it should join the latter at an acute angle, that both streams may meet with the least possible opposition of forces.
Tiles: Size, Shape, Draining, Capacity, &c. We use circular pipe tiles with a diameter of one and a half inches for all parallel drains that are no longer than one hundred yards, and two-inch pipes for any additional length up to one hundred and fifty yards, which I believe is the maximum length a parallel drain should stretch before connecting to a main or sub-main drain. We don’t find it necessary to use collars on this farm since we have firm ground for placing the tiles, and we can cut the drain to fit the tiles perfectly. Regarding the size of tiles for main and sub-main drains, that can only be determined by the person responsible for the drainage in any specific area, after assessing the land and observing the smaller drains discharging. Generally, a circular pipe with a three-inch internal diameter can handle the ordinary drainage for five or six acres and allow enough air circulation. It should be noted, however, that this is relevant to a region where the annual rainfall is between twenty-six and thirty inches, while all of Ireland has an average of about thirty-five inches; additionally, we do not experience the heavy downpours in just a few hours that occur in other countries. All these factors should be taken into account when calculating the waterway for drainage. I mentioned that collars are not used with the tiles on this farm, given the firm and even bottom of the drains; however, when the tile bed is soft, and the subsoil is shifting, collars should be used in all instances. Collars cost about half the price of the tiles they connect, which adds one-third to the overall cost of the draining materials; as I previously stated, I believe they are unnecessary where the subsoil is firm, and the drain can be set to fit the tile. If large pipes are not readily available for the main or sub-drains, I find that using a proportional number of smaller pipes works perfectly. It is very important to include branch pipes for connecting the minor drains to the main drains. The branch should be socketed to fit the end of the last tile in the minor drain, and the connection to the main pipe can be either on the top or on the side. If the branch directs water into the side of the main pipe, it should connect at a sharp angle so both streams can merge with minimal resistance.
Fall necessary in Tile Drainage. I consider one foot in one hundred yards the least fall to work upon with safety.
Fall necessary in Tile Drainage. I think a drop of one foot over one hundred yards is the minimum slope to work with safely.
Securing Outlets. All the outlets from main-drains should be well secured against the intrusion of vermin, by a wrought-iron grating, built in mason-work. The water may flow into a stone trough provided with an overflow-pipe, by which the quantity discharged may be ascertained at any time, so as to compare the drainage before and after rain, [379]&c.
Securing Outlets. All the outlets from the main drains should be securely covered to prevent vermin from getting in, using a wrought-iron grate set in masonry. Water can flow into a stone trough equipped with an overflow pipe, which allows for measuring the amount discharged at any time, enabling a comparison of drainage before and after rain, [379]&c.
Traps, or Silt Ponds. Where extensive drainage is carried on in low-lying districts, and the principal outlet at a considerable distance, it may be found necessary to have traps at several points where the silt from the tiles will be kept. These traps may be of cast-iron, or mason-work, cemented; and provision should be made, by which they can be cleaned out and examined regularly—the drainage at these periods also undergoing inspection at the different traps.
Traps, or Silt Ponds. In areas where extensive drainage is underway in low-lying regions, and the main outlet is far away, it might be necessary to install traps at various points to collect the silt from the tiles. These traps can be made of cast iron or masonry with cement; and there should be a system in place to allow for regular cleaning and inspection of them—the drainage process should also be checked at each of the different traps during these times.
Plow-Draining. We have no draining-plows in use in Ireland, that I know of; the common plow is sometimes used for marking off the drains, cutting the sides, and throwing out the earth to a considerable depth, thereby lessening the manual labor considerably. Efforts have been made in England to produce an efficient implement of this description; but it would appear there is ample room for an inventive Jonathan to walk in for a profitable patent in this department, and thus add another to the many valuable ones brought out in your great country.
Plow-Draining. As far as I know, there are no draining plows being used in Ireland. The regular plow is sometimes used to mark out the drains, cut the sides, and move the earth to a significant depth, which greatly reduces manual labor. There have been attempts in England to create an effective tool for this, but it seems there's plenty of opportunity for an inventive person to come up with a profitable patent in this area and add to the many valuable inventions that have come from your great country.
Case of Obstruction in Tiles. Some years since, one of the principal main-drains on this farm was observed not discharging the water freely, as it hitherto had done, after a heavy fall of rain; and the land adjoining it showed unmistakable signs of wetness. The drain was opened, and traced to the point of obstruction, which was found to be convenient to a small poplar tree, the rootlets of which made their way into the tiles, at the depth of five and a half feet, and completely filled them, in the direction of the stream, for several yards. We have some of the tiles (horse-shoe) in our museum here, as they were then lifted from the drain, showing clearly the formidable nature of the obstruction. Another serious case of obstruction has come to my knowledge, occasioned by frogs or toads getting into the tiles of the main-drain in large numbers, on account of the outlet being insufficiently protected. In this case, a large expenditure had to be incurred, to repair the damage done.
Case of Obstruction in Tiles. Several years ago, one of the main drains on this farm was noticed to be blocked and not releasing water as it normally did after a heavy rain. The surrounding land showed clear signs of being waterlogged. We opened the drain and traced the blockage to a small poplar tree, whose roots had penetrated the tiles at a depth of five and a half feet, completely filling them for several yards in the direction of the stream. We have some of the tiles (horse-shoe) displayed in our museum, as they were removed from the drain, clearly illustrating the severity of the blockage. I've also learned of another serious blockage caused by frogs or toads entering the tiles of the main drain in large numbers, due to the outlet being poorly protected. In this instance, a significant amount of money had to be spent to repair the damage.
I have not observed any case of obstruction from the roots of our cultivated plants. It has been said by some that the rootlets of mangold will reach the drains under them; and, particularly, where the drains contain most water in rapid motion. I took up the tiles from a drain on this farm, in '54, which had been laid down (by a former occupier), about the year '44, at a depth not exceeding two-and-a-half feet, and not one of these was obstructed in the least degree, although parsnips, carrots, cabbages, mangolds, &c., had been grown on this field. Obstructions may occur through the agency of mineral springs;[380] but very few cases of this nature are met with, at least in this country. I would anticipate this class of obstruction, if from the nature of the land there was reason to expect it, by increasing the fall in the drains and having traps more frequent, where the main outlets are at a distance to render them necessary. In my opinion, the roots of trees are the great intruders to be guarded against, and more particularly the soft-wooded sorts, such as poplars, willows, alders, &c. The distance of a drain from a tree ought always to be equal to the height of the latter.
I haven't seen any cases of roots from our cultivated plants blocking anything. Some people say that the roots of mangold can reach the drains below them, especially where the drains have a lot of flowing water. In '54, I removed the tiles from a drain on this farm that had been installed (by a previous owner) around '44, at a depth of no more than two-and-a-half feet, and none of them were blocked at all, even though parsnips, carrots, cabbages, mangolds, etc., had been grown in that field. Blockages can happen due to mineral springs;[380] but we rarely see this, at least in this country. I would expect this type of blockage if the land suggested it, by increasing the slope in the drains and adding traps more often when the main outlets are far away. In my view, tree roots are the biggest threat to watch out for, especially from soft-wooded species like poplars, willows, and alders. The distance from a drain to a tree should always be at least equal to the tree's height.
Tiles flattening in the drying process. With this subject, I am not practically familiar. In most tile-works, the tiles, after passing through the moulding-machine, are placed horizontally on shelves, which rise one above another to any convenient height, on which the tiles are dried by means of heated flues which traverse the sheds where the work is carried on; or they are allowed to dry without artificial heat. I prefer the tiles prepared by the latter method, as, if sufficient time be given them to be well dried, they will burn more equally, and be more durable. The tiles will flatten more or less for the first day or two on the shelves, after which they are rolled. This is done by boys (who are provided with pieces of wood of a diameter equal to the bore of the tile when made), who very soon learn to get over a large number daily. The "roller" should have a shouldered handle attached, the whole thickness of which should not be greater than that of the tile. The shoulder is necessary to make the ends of the tiles even, that there may be no very open joints when they are placed in a drain. Once rolled, the tiles are not likely to flatten again, if the operation be performed at the proper time.
Tiles flattening during the drying process. I'm not very familiar with this topic. In most tile factories, after the tiles come out of the molding machine, they are laid flat on shelves that are stacked to a convenient height, where they dry using heated flues that run through the workspace; or they can dry naturally without any extra heat. I prefer the tiles dried by the latter method because, if they are given enough time to dry thoroughly, they will fire more evenly and be more durable. The tiles may flatten somewhat during the first day or two on the shelves, after which they are rolled. This is done by boys who use wooden pieces that match the diameter of the tile when it’s made, and they quickly learn to roll a large number each day. The "roller" should have a shouldered handle, and the total thickness should not exceed that of the tile. The shoulder is essential to ensure that the ends of the tiles are even, preventing very open joints when they are put in a drain. Once rolled, the tiles are unlikely to flatten again if the process is done at the right time.
As good tiles as I ever saw were dried in a different way, and not rolled at all. As they were taken from the machine—six at a time—each carrier passed off with his tray, and placed them on end carefully, upon an even floor. When five or six rows of tiles were thus placed, the whole length of the drying-house, a board was set on edge to keep them from falling to one side; then followed five or six other rows of tiles, and so on, till the drying-ground was filled.
The best tiles I’ve ever seen were dried in a different way, and not rolled at all. As they came out of the machine—six at a time—each worker carried off his tray and carefully placed them on end on an even floor. When five or six rows of tiles were arranged like this all along the drying house, a board was set on edge to keep them from tipping over; then five or six more rows of tiles followed, and so on, until the drying area was full.
This was the plan adopted in a tilery near Dublin, some years ago. It is only a few days since I examined some of the tiles made at these works, which had been taken from a drain, where they had been in use for nine years; and the clear ringing sound produced by striking them against each other, showed what little effect that length of time produced upon them, and how well they had been manufactured.[381]
This was the plan adopted in a tile factory near Dublin, a few years back. Just a few days ago, I looked at some of the tiles made at that facility, which had been taken from a drain where they had been used for nine years. The clear ringing sound created when striking them against each other showed how little impact that time had on them and how well they had been made.[381]
Cost of Tiles. We have recently paid at the works—
Cost of Tiles. We recently paid at the factory—
For | 1½ | inch pipes | 17s. 6d. | per thousand. |
" | 2 | " | 25s. | " |
" | 3 | " | 45s. | " |
Each tile one foot in length, and the one and one-half-inch pipes weighing 16 cwt. per thousand.
Each tile is one foot long, and the one and a half-inch pipes weigh 16 cwt. per thousand.
One of the great difficulties in connection with tile-making is, in many districts, to procure clay sufficiently free from lime. Tiles are very often sold by sample, sent a considerable distance, and it becomes necessary to test them, which we do (for lime) by placing them in water for a night; and, if lime is present in the tile, it will, of course, swell out, and break the latter, or leave it in a riddled state.
One of the major challenges in tile-making is finding clay that is low in lime in many areas. Tiles are often sold by sample and shipped over long distances, so it’s important to test them. We do this for lime by soaking them in water overnight. If lime is present in the tile, it will swell and either break the tile or leave it full of holes.
I have now endeavored to answer the queries in your postscript, and I have carefully avoided enlarging on some points in them with which your readers are already familiar. If I shall have thrown a single ray of additional light on this subject across the Atlantic, I shall be amply repaid for any attention I have given to thorough-drainage during the past twelve years.
I have now tried to answer the questions in your postscript, and I have made sure not to elaborate on points that your readers already know. If I have managed to shed even a little more light on this topic across the Atlantic, I will feel well rewarded for the attention I've devoted to thorough drainage over the past twelve years.
I should here observe that I mislaid amongst my papers the portion of your letter containing the queries (it was a separate sheet), and it has not as yet turned up, so that I had to depend on a rather treacherous memory to keep the queries in my mind's eye. It is highly probable, therefore, that I have overlooked some of them. This circumstance was the chief cause of the delay in writing.
I should mention that I misplaced the part of your letter with the questions (it was on a separate sheet), and I still haven't found it, so I had to rely on a somewhat unreliable memory to keep the questions in mind. It's very likely that I've missed some of them. This was the main reason for the delay in my response.
You are quite at liberty to make any use you please of this communication.
You’re free to use this message however you want.
William Boyle.
William Boyle.
INDEX.[382]
- Absorption of moisture; 303, 304, 322
- Absorption of Fertilizing substances; 268
- Aeration; 269, 276
- Albert Model Farm; 375
- American experiments; 367
- Anderson, J. F.; 112
- Arrangement of drains; 173
- Artesian Wells; 83
- Attraction, adhesive; 301
- Auger, Elkington's; 35, 246
- Bache, Prof.; 65
- Back water; 181
- Barn cellar; 356-359
- Bergen, Mr.; 199
- Birmingham spades; 240
- Bletonism; 36
- Blodgett, Lorin; 51, 59
- Bligh, Captain; 24, 27
- Bogs; 91
- Boning-rod; 234
- Bore, form of; 129
- Boring; 35, 365
- Boring tools; 35, 346
- Boyle, Wm.; 375
- Branch pipes; 196, 378
- Bricks, draining; 121, 144
- Bricks, draining, cost of; 204
- Brush drains; 104, 105
- Capacity of pipes; 131, 132, 134, 201
- Capillary attraction; 302
- Cellars, drainage of; 351-359
- Challoner's Level; 235
- Clay soil; 167, 329
- Clays, drainage of; 322-332
- Clays, cracking of; 275, 324-331
- Collars; 47, 126, 127, 128, 219, 316, 320, 378
- Cold from evaporation; 63, 272
- Cost of drainage; 211-224, 309, 376
- Count Rumford; 272, 273, 287
- Country Gentleman; 16, 198, 329
- Crisp, Thomas; 203
- Custis, G. W. P.; 18
- Dams; 333, 347
- Deanston system; 37
- Delafield; 46, 76, 168
- Denton, J. Bailey; 21, 161
- Denton, Letter from; 200
- Depth of drains; 164-173, 326, 328, 377
- Directions how to lay drains; 252-258
- Dew, cause of; 305
- Dew-point; 65, 66, 306
- Dickinson, A. B.; 108
- Direction of drains; 146-155
- Distance of drains; 155-164, 377
- Ditch diggers; 247-251
- Drainage acts; 349
- Drainage, will it pay?; 95
- Drain bricks; 121, 144
- Drains of brush; 104
- Drought, drains prevent; 281-286, 300
- Dry Wells; 197, 198
- Durability of drains; 141-145
- Elkington's system; 27, 33, 240, 365
- Embankment; 18
- Emerson, R. W.; 15, 23
- Engineering; 163, 213
- England; 19, 340
- England, wet land in; 89
- English tools; 243
- Evaporation; 48, 61, 62, 293-297
- Excavation; 165
- Experiments, American; 367, 376
- Factory reservoirs; 341-343
- Fall in drains; 174, 378
- Fences; 211, 346
- Filtration; 41, 60, 61
- [383]Filtration tables of; 70, 71
- Fitzherbert; 23
- Flat-bottomed tiles; 129
- Flowage, effects of; 333, 341, 343, 346
- Flushing drains; 186
- Freezing out; 75, 262
- Freezing of pipes; 171
- French's plan; 373
- Friction of water; 131, 133
- Frost; 67, 143, 170, 172, 297, 299
- Fruit trees; 298, 374
- Furrows; 195
- Gauge; 246
- Germination; 276-281
- Gillis, Lieut.; 65
- Gisborne; 122, 126
- Gravitation; 131
- Grading drains; 233
- Gratings at outlets; 183
- Great Britain; 89
- Great Britain, wet lands in; 89
- Greeley, Horace; 88
- Haarlaem, Lake; 19
- Headers; 153, 154
- Heat in wet land; 288-290
- Hobbs, Doctor; 51, 54, 56
- Holyoke, Doctor; 62
- Horse-shoe tiles; 124
- Implements; 225, 252
- Indications of moisture; 93
- Injury by drainage; 308, 313
- Ireland, drainage in; 376
- Irrigation; 14
- Irish spade; 238
- Johnson, B. P.; 17
- Johnston, John; 46, 168, 256, 262, 328, 329
- Johnstone; 28, 31, 120
- Joints, how covered; 255
- Junction of drains; 195, 196
- Land Drainage Companies; 349
- Larch tubes; 111
- Lardner, Dr.; 270
- Laying out drains; 213, 253
- Laying tiles; 219, 252-258
- Legal rights to water; 85, 86, 346
- Legislation; 340
- Levelling instruments; 229-235
- Lincolnshire fens; 19, 310
- Lines, use of; 233, 253
- Lord Lincoln's Act; 347
- Madden, Doctor; 276
- Mains, position and size of; 190-194
- Mangolds, obstruction by; 316, 317, 379
- Mapes, Prof.; 16, 167
- Massachusetts, laws; 347
- Mechi, Sheriff; 260, 339
- Methods of drainage; 99
- Mice; 104, 116, 315
- Mill dams; 340-344
- Mill streams; 89, 333
- Minors; 194
- Moisture, sources of; 78
- Moles; 104, 116
- Mole drains; 107
- Mole Plow; 108
- Moon, influence of; 306
- Morris, Edward; 60
- Nash, Prof.; 199
- Nene River; 337
- New York Park; 47, 219
- Nourse, B. F.; 285, 299, 367
- Obstruction of drains; 313-320
- Open ditches; 99, 263
- Opening ditches; 252
- Outfalls; 345
- Outlets; 176-183, 219, 252, 257, 315, 378
- Over-draining peats; 309, 366
- Parkes, Josiah; 25, 38, 40, 128
- Paul's ditcher; 250
- Peat tiles; 113
- Peats, over-draining of; 309, 366
- Peep-holes; 187, 188, 321, 373
- Per-oxide of iron; 317
- Pettibone, J. S.; 329
- Picks; 245
- Pipes; 47, 122, 123, 144
- Pipe layer; 244, 245
- Plans of drains; 195, 372, 377
- Plans, importance of; 161
- Plow, use of; 253, 379
- Plow, Fowler's drain; 247, 248
- Plug drains; 107
- Pole drain; 113
- Pratt's Ditch digger; 248, 249
- Pressure of water; 131, 132, 331, 332, 356
- Pressure, water of; 84
- Process of draining; 252-258
- Puddling; 198, 266, 323
- Pulverization; 260, 282, 299
- Rain; 48, 158, 159, 284
- Rain-fall; 50, 158, 378
- Rain-fall, tables of; 53-60, 70-73
- Relief pipes; 184, 186
- Reservoirs; 341, 343
- Ridge and furrow; 195
- Rolling pipes; 205, 380
- Roots, length of; 258, 259, 283
- Round pipes; 47, 122
- Rumford, Count; 272, 273, 287
- Ruffin, Edmund, Esq.; 29, 364
- Rye and Derwent; 344
- Saturation; 66
- [384]Scoops; 244
- Screens at outlets; 183
- Season lengthened; 261
- Shallow drains; 168
- Shanghae plow; 109
- Shedd and Edson; 21, 51, 372
- Shoulder drain; 110
- Shovels; 236, 237
- Silt basin; 186, 379
- Sinkholes; 198
- Size of tiles; 190, 201, 377
- Smith, of Deanston; 26, 37
- Snow, fall of; 59
- Sole-tile; 125
- Spades; 235, 236, 240-242
- Spirit level; 230
- Springs; 78-83
- Staff and target; 231
- Stagnant water; 93
- Stone drains; 114-119, 377
- Stones above tiles; 118
- Streams affected by drainage; 333-340
- Subsoil plow; 169
- Subsoiler, Marcus and Co.'s; 107
- Surface washing prevented; 261
- Swallow-holes; 197, 198
- Swamps; 91, 360
- Swamp-lands; 17
- Swan, R. J.; 168
- System, importance of; 160, 173
- Tables of evaporation; 72, 73
- Talpa; 23
- Temperature; 67, 189, 280, 287-300
- Thermometer, wet and dry; 64, 65
- Thomas, J. J.; 229
- Tile-drainage; 120
- Tiles, cost in England; 201, 212
- Tile machines; 46, 202-210
- Tile-works; 47, 121
- Tools; 225-246
- Tops and bottoms; 140, 319, 379
- Traps; 185, 186, 379, 380
- Warder, Doctor; 346
- Water, how it enters; 138, 314, 320
- Water passage; 129
- Water-line; 51, 139
- Water-powers; 333, 335, 341-345
- Water of pressure; 84, 161
- Water, pressure of; 84, 140, 141
- Wedge drain; 110, 236
- Weight of tiles; 219, 381
- Wells, drainage into; 197-199
- Well and relief-pipe; 184-186
- Well with silt trap; 186
- Wharncliffe system; 44
- Width of ditches; 215-218, 226
- Wright, Gov.; 17
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