Best resting places: Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyon, and Avignon. For "London to Marseilles," see under that heading in the "Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway." Through tickets available at their London office.

Marseille 537 PARIS. Start at the Paris to Lyon train station, located at 20 Boulevard Mazas, where you can buy a timetable for 8 sous or 40 cents. This is the only completely reliable schedule for train prices, distances, and departures. There's a good restaurant at the station. Across from the station is the Hotel de l’Univers, and a bit further away is the Hotel Jules César.

Maps.—For the main route, check map on fly-leaf; for the details up to Macon, map page 1; and for the rest of the trip, map page 26. The fare for third class from London to Paris via Dieppe, on the London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to Marseilles, using the Paris and Lyons Railway, it costs £2:7s., taking 23 hours; departing from the Chemin de Fer de Lyon station at 6:30 AM and arriving the next day at 5:33 AM. A train leaves Marseilles at 6:35 AM for Toulon, arriving at 9 AM. From Toulon, a train departs for Hyères at 9:32 A.M., arriving at 10:13 AM The third-class carriages between Paris and Marseilles have separate compartments for ladies and come with warming pans. For those heading to Hyères, the closest winter station, it's best, if possible, to avoid breaking the journey and to purchase a through ticket from Paris to Hyères (£2:12s.), as any breaks add significantly to the cost; additionally, the train passes the most convenient resting places at very awkward hours in the night. The entire journey from Paris to Hyères can be completed in 18¼ hours by first class for £4:13:6.

The train, after leaving the station, passes the southwest corner of the Bois de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both located by the Marne River, which joins the Seine here. Charenton, 4 miles from Paris, has a large mental asylum established in 1644. Residents pay £60 a year. St. Maurice, with a population of 4,300, features the Château d’Alfort, which houses a veterinary college with a hospital for animals, charging 2 shillings per day for horses. It includes a library, museum, and laboratory, and it has a nursery for growing grasses. Just beyond Fort Charenton are the Maisons-Alfort, with a population of 8,000, located on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and Robespierre lived here for a while.

Villeneuve St. George. Melun.

9½ miles south of Paris is the charming town of Villeneuve St. George, with a population of 1500, located on the Seine where it meets the Yères, a deep river flowing through a lush valley. 3¼ miles farther is Montgeron on the Yères, with a population of 1300, featuring the castle that belonged to Sillery, chancellor of Henri IV. On the other side of the river is the village of Crosne, where Nicolas Boileau Despréaux was born on November 1, 1636, at house No. 3 Rue Simon. He died on March 13, 1711. He was a well-known critic and the first to set rules for French versification. He also influenced English literature through Pope and his contemporaries.

13¾ miles from Paris is Brunoy, population 1550, an ancient town that was home to the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII made the Duke of Wellington the Marquis of Brunoy. The train now crosses the Yères viaduct, which is 1235 feet long and supported by 28 arches that are 104½ feet high. 28 miles south of Paris is the beautifully located town of MELUN, population 12,000. Inns: Grand Monarque; Commerce; both close to each other and near St. Aspais. Between them is the bus office. Église Protestante. Melun, the Melodunum of Julius Caesar, occupies both banks of the Seine and the island in the center, as well as both sides of the Almont, which flows into the Seine here. A long, nearly straight road runs from the railway station to the northern edge of the town, known as Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St. Aspais, and Rue du Palais de Justice. On the left or south bank of Melun are large cavalry barracks. On the island stands the church of Notre Dame, from the 11th century and restored, which features a neat two-story tower over each transept, dating back to the 10th century. The large building 3 behind the church is the main prison. Very close to the church, on Rue Notre Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street, in the part of town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an elegant church from the 14th century surrounded by crocketed gabled chapels. Next to the main entrance is a buttressed square tower, topped with a high peaked roof that extends into a short spire. Inside, there are some delicately sculpted canopy works and eight windows with valuable old glass. Just a few yards off the main street is the Hotel de Ville, featuring round turrets at each corner; in the center of the courtyard stands a marble statue of Jacques Amyot, born in 1514, “One of the Great Reformers of the French language in the 16th century.” Behind it are public gardens containing several capitals from ancient columns. Nearby is the Place St. Jean, with a beautiful fountain. Northwest of St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the St. Barthélemy belfry, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theater, the Gendarmerie, and another prison are all located together at the northern end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent pears—some of them are very large. Just 4 miles northeast of Melun is the Chateau of Vaux-Praslin, which contains paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From Melun, the railway line continues along the Seine until it reaches Bois-le-Roi, where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.

Fontainebleau.

Paris Marseille 37 500 FONTAINEBLEAU population 9,200, about 2 miles from the Seine and one mile from the station; but buses are available for passengers heading to hotels. The fare is 30 cents. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, it's 50 cents. The most expensive hotels are located near the Chateau. They include: Londres, Europe, France et Angleterre, Ville de Lyon, Aigle Noir, and Lion d’Or. At the end of the main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, you'll find the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la Chancellerie, close to the Cour des Offices or the east end of the Chateau, is the H. de la Chancellerie. In Rue de France, there’s the H. de la Sirène. The last four hotels offer the most affordable rates. Among the larger hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension Launoy; first floor, 13 francs per day, second floor, 11 francs per day. For those just staying for a day, the best choice is to take any of the Chateau buses from the station. Get off at the end of Rue Grande, where there’s a square with a garden surrounded by nice shops—a bookstore with maps, plans, and photographs—souvenirs made from the wood of the forest; a good pastry shop and several restaurants where you can grab refreshments before or after visiting the chateau. However, if you're worried about missing your train, it’s better to eat at some of the restaurants across from the station. From the end of Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about a 5-minute walk.

Temple Protestant, where an English service is also held.

Coach Tariff.—The main taxi stand is at the end of Rue Grande by the square. Before you head out, be sure to get a map of the forest for 1½ fr. at the shop across the street.

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 people, pulled by 2 horses, costs 20 frs. for the 4 day, plus a tip for the driver. For 4 people, with 1 horse, it costs 10 frs. for the day.

Carriages can also be hired by the hour at these prices:—

A four-wheeled carriage for 5 people, pulled by 2 horses, costs 4 frs. for the first hour and 3 frs. for each additional hour.

A four-wheeled carriage for 4 people, with 1 horse, costs 3 fr. for the first hour, and 2 fr. 25 c. for each additional hour.

A two-wheeled carriage for 4 people, pulled by 1 horse, at 2 francs an hour.

Donkeys and mules can be rented for 3 francs a day.

Fontainebleau is worth a visit, not just to see the Chateau, but also to enjoy the lovely air and strolls in the gardens and woods, which span 18,740 acres, crossed by 12,000 m of roads and paths. The palace features square towers connected by a series of low brick buildings, creating spacious courtyards, each with a unique name. The roof is said to cover 14 acres. The palace is open from 11 AM to 4 PM. The guides are in one of the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval Blanc,” which serves as the main entrance. A small fee is appreciated, but since the Palace is owned by the State, it's not mandatory.

To visit the "reserved apartments," you need a special request, which can be made by sending a letter to "M. Le Commandant des Chateaux." The "reserved apartments" can include a varying number of rooms depending on what the household needs, but they never include the grand halls. The order in which the Palace is shown changes frequently, but the itinerary we provide will generally be accurate. Sometimes, it may even be in reverse.

The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it is today, was established by Francis I, who started by tearing down the entire previous structure, except for the pavilion of St. Louis, which still stands. Henri IV, who invested £100,000 into it, expanded the size of the buildings and gardens, adding features like the gallery of Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I spent £250,000 on it, while Louis XVIII and Louis Philippe also contributed significant amounts.

Fontainebleau: Entrance. Chapel of the Trinity.

The principal entrance is located at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL BLANC, the largest of all the courtyards, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It’s also known as the Cour des Adieux because this is where Napoleon I, abandoned by nearly all his generals, said goodbye on April 20, 1814, to the loyal soldiers of his Old Guard. He left them in tears and then jumped into his carriage. On March 19, 1815, he returned to this palace from the island of Elba, wandering through the magnificent rooms that had seen both his glory and his despair with almost childlike joy.

Since there is very little time to check out the different items, the following shortened list should be read before you go in.

The visitor enters through the door beneath the Horseshoe staircase, which has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the two iron bars in the wall marks the height of Francis I. The first area you enter is the Chapelle de la Trinité, built by Francis I in 1529, and largely 5 decorated by Henri IV after the Spanish ambassador commented that “the palace would look nicer if the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI was married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was declared here; and in 1810, Napoleon III was baptized here. The paintings are by Fréminet, created during the reigns of Henri IV, Marie de Médicis, and Louis XIII. The high altar was completed in the reign of Louis XIII by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The statues flanking the altar, representing Charlemagne and St. Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels that support the coats of arms of France and Navarre are by Jean Goujon. The four bronze angels are by G. Pilon.

Fontainebleau: Napoleon's Apartments.

Ascend the staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the Antichambre des Huissiers (ushers), featuring a painting by Brenet from 1785. Next is the Cabinet des Secretaires, with works by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Now, pass through a small corridor decorated with flower paintings by Spraendonck to the delightful Salle des Bains. The walls are made of plate glass, painted with elegant designs of cupids, birds, and flowers in beautiful colors. The bath opens into the Abdication Room, which has the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, where Napoleon signed his abdication on April 5, 1814. The walls are draped in rich embroidered satin from Lyons. Next is the Cabinet de Travail (study) of the Emperor, featuring a stunning writing desk by Jakob. The ceiling painting symbolizes law and justice. Bedroom of Napoleon I. and III. The bed was restored under Louis Philippe and is draped in silk velvet from Lyons. The walls are adorned with grisaille paintings of cupids, masterfully imitating relief, by Sauvage. There’s a clock, a gift from Pio VII. to Napoleon. The Salon de Famille or Salle du Conseil dates back to François I. and Henri IV., made by Louis XV. for his study. In the center of the room is a mahogany table, 6 yards in circumference, made from one piece. The 20 red and blue symbolic paintings around the walls are by the two Vanloos. The ceiling features the arms of France on a gold background. The furniture is upholstered in Beauvais tapestry from the time of Louis XV. There is also a clock from the time of Louis XIV. The throne room, built by Charles IX., was decorated by Louis XIII. and XIV., and Napoleon I. added the throne. This is where the marshals of France took their oaths of allegiance. The ceiling is magnificently gilded and painted, with a matching chimney-piece. Above it hangs a portrait of Louis XIII. The crystal chandelier is valued at £2000.

Fontainebleau: Marie Antoinette's Apartments.

APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on the ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques on the panels with a green background. On console tables by Coindrel, there are 2 ivory vases given to Napoleon I by the Emperor of Austria. This room was designed for Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI., who started but did not finish the window locks (espagnolettes). The Bedroom. It was occupied in succession by Marie de Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie, wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The beautiful drapery and curtains of the bed were given to Marie Antoinette by the city of Lyons for her wedding. 6 The walls are covered with the richest hand-embroidered satin. There are two wardrobes by Riésener. A clock from the time of Louis XVI. Salon de Musique. The ceiling features Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy, 1786. Above the door, the Muses are painted in grisaille by Sauvage. A porcelain table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the

GALERIE DE DIANE or Library, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided into sections, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, depicting mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows hang the sword and armor worn by Monaldeschi when he was killed on October 15, 1657, by the orders of Christina of Sweden, the second daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The brutal act occurred in the room directly below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man, in defending against the first strike, had three of his fingers severed. He then dropped to his knees before his confessor, Father Le Bel, sent by Christina, and while praying to God for forgiveness of his sins, one of the attackers stabbed him in the face; the other first struck off the crown of his skull and then cut his throat, causing him to collapse on the ground, where he remained breathing for another fifteen minutes. Throughout this horrifying scene, the kind priest kept shouting loudly words of comfort to the dying man. That same evening, he was buried near the holy water basin in the church of Avon, 1 m. E. from the chateau, at the edge of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen Christina’s chamberlain and is thought to have betrayed some of her secrets. The Marquis pleaded desperately with Father Le Bel to ask the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor approached her and begged, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to show mercy to the unfortunate man, she reacted with irritation, saying that she could not, and that many had been sentenced to the wheel who did not deserve it as much as this coward.

At the end of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, featuring mediocre modern paintings by Blondel that depict the story of the goddess Diana.

We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, decorated with hunting scenes by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes, 1661-1743. The door on the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses, not shown (see page 8). The other leads into

Fontainebleau: Salons of François I, Louis XIII, St. Louis. Guard Room.

LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling made of pine wood featuring gilded sections. Walls adorned with ancient Gobelins tapestries. Salon des Tapisseries decorated with stunning tapestries depicting the loves of Psyche. A Sevres porcelain vase valued at £600, a gift to Empress Eugenie. Salon de François I. Used as a dining room by Napoleon I. and Charles X. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry showcases royal hunting scenes. In the center of the fireplace is a fresco by Primaticcio, illustrating Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets date back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Furniture covered with remarkable Beauvais tapestries. Salon de Louis XIII. A small Venetian mirror, one of the earliest made and the first to come to France, marks the spot where Marie de Médicis's bed was when Louis XIII. was born. The painted ceiling and walls tell the story of Theagenes and Charicles, which was translated from Greek by Jacques Amyot and dedicated to Francis I. A beautiful marble fireplace. Salle de Saint Louis. Above the fireplace, there’s an equestrian statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp. Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., from 1773-1777. Salle des Gardes, mainly by Charles IX., but restored by Louis Philippe. In the medallions above the five actual and false doors are portraits of Francis I., accompanied by the allegorical figures of Might and Fine Arts; Henri II., paired with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine Bourbon (father of Henri IV.), accompanied by figures of Hope and Abundance; Henri IV., along with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with figures of Religion and Justice. A beautiful fireplace by Jacquet, 1590, 17 feet high and 13 feet wide. In the center, a bust of Henri IV., with statues of Might and Peace by Francarville on each side. A charming little room, with an inlaid wooden floor that matches the ceiling's design, leads to the

ESCALIER DU ROI. The upper section of this staircase, constructed by Louis XV, was originally the Chamber of the Duchess of Etampes. The frescoes, depicting scenes from the life of Alexander, are mostly by Niccolo dell’Abate, poorly restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.

GALERIE DE HENRI II., or the Ballroom. The most stunning hall in the palace, gleaming with gold, measuring 90 ft. long by 30 ft. wide, illuminated on one side by 5 windows overlooking the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the same number facing the gardens. It was built by François I and decorated by Henri II for his favorite, Diane de Poitiers. The walls are adorned with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio, Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The walnut ceiling is divided into 27 compartments, intricately decorated with scrolls, moldings, and friezes, all richly gilded, enclosing the initials of Henri II and Diana. The fireplace, made from rare marbles and decorated with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one of the entrances to the chapel of St. Saturnin, which is usually closed (see page 8). We now return to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter the

GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to Napoleon's apartments, measures 210 ft. long and 20 ft. wide. It was constructed by Francis to link the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and St. Louis. The ceiling features variously shaped gilded panels, creating an interesting effect. The frescoes, depicting mythological scenes, are mostly by Rosso, with a few by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. A bust of François I. From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase, we enter the

APARTMENTS OF THE QUEEN MOTHERS and Pope Pius VII. They were lived in by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV), whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; also by Pope Pius VII, more as a prisoner than a guest of Napoleon I. The magnificent bed was set up by Napoleon III for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert when they were expected to visit Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the Gobelins factory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and other French masters. Antechamber. Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as the goddess of the hunt, one of Primaticcio’s best works. Cabinet (Bahut) from the time of Louis XIII. Walls lined with embossed leather. Furniture covered with Cordovan leather. Officers' Rooms. Decorated with Gobelins tapestry, depicting the story of Esther. Salon. Walls adorned with beautiful colored Gobelins. Furniture covered with Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into sections bearing the initials of Anne of Austria and Louis XIII. The Old Bedroom (see above). Modern furniture styled in Louis XIII. Mosaic table gifted by Pio IX, bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by Cotelle de Meaux. Study of Pio VII—portrait of him by David. Dressing room—wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest in France. Bust of Louis XV by Lemoyne, 1751. New Bedroom—bed of the time of Louis XIV, enlarged during the reign of Louis Philippe. Reception Room—Gobelins tapestry—furniture from the time of Louis XV. Bust of Napoleon by Canova. Waiting Room or Salle d’Attente. Gobelins from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock from the Louis XVI period. Antechamber. Four pictures by Breughel, one of which is on wood. Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.

GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the artwork in this gallery was painted in fresco during the reign of Henri IV by Ambroise Dubois on the gallery of Diana. They were taken down in 1805, and some of them were transferred to canvas. Additionally, Louis Philippe added 128 plates to the walls, featuring views of royal residences in France and events related to Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery leading to the

SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theater, built by Napoleon III, with seating for 400. Visitors now exit the palace via the staircase of Charles VIII, which features a stucco statue of him.

Fontainebleau: St. Saturnin Chapel.

Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin, built by Louis VII after his return from Palestine and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The stained glass windows were made in Sevres from designs by Princess Marie, daughter of Louis Philippe, in 1836; and the altar is the same one where Pope Pius VII celebrated mass during his stay at Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was rebuilt in 1545 by Francis I, who then constructed the Upper Chapel. It was decorated with beautiful frescoes during the reign of Henri IV. around the year 1608. Napoleon III started the restoration.

Adjoining the lower chapel, a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, which is the same size as the Galerie de Henri II directly above it. To the right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.

Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV, under the Galerie de Diane, decorated with scenes of the royal residences, poorly done. It was here Monaldeschi was killed (see p. 6).

Appartements des Chasses, which has two rooms, is decorated with pictures of dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best ones are by J. B. Oudry.

Appartements of Madame de Maintenon, which include an antechamber, salon, boudoir, and bathroom. They are not particularly noteworthy except for the fact that it's said Louis XIV signed the revocation of the Edict of Nantes here in 1685, leading to significant cruelty. The embroidery on the furniture and screen was done by the noble students of St. Cyr. Next to it is the Gallery of Henry II. (see p. 7).

The Musée Chinois, featuring a valuable and fascinating collection of items from China, can only be visited with special permission.

From the Cour du Cheval Blanc, an arched passage near the Horseshoe staircase leads to the Cour de la Fontaine. On the side facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. After passing through the porch in the northeast corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we see the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to the left is the Porte Dorée, one of the gates that opens into the Cour Ovale. It's usually closed. The soffit and sides have frescoes on a gold background by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The subjects depicted are mythological. Charles V entered through this gateway in 1539. Also, the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau through this portal, driven away by the proud and jealous Diana. To the east on the left, we pass the rounded part of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the Porte Dorée is the emblem of Francis I, a salamander. The main entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.

At the east side of the palace, facing the Place d'Armes and connected to the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de Henri IV, or Des Offices, which is 285 feet long and 255 feet wide. It's home to the artillery college, which used to be in Metz. The program lasts 2 years. The entrance is impressive but somewhat imposing; the buildings don't have anything noteworthy.

Fontainebleau: Driving in the Forest.

Excursions into the forest. Those who want to go for a walk should bring a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt de Fontainebleau, which costs 1½ fr. In the forest, the red posts show the way back to town, while the black posts lead elsewhere. The drivers know all the roads. The beautiful part of the forest covers only 3719 acres. Here are the three main routes, each taking about 6 hours:—

1. Croix du Grand Veneur by the Tillaie—Viewpoint from the Chailly camp by the Grand Master’s Table and the Belle Vue crossroads—Barbison by the Bas Bréau—Gorges of Apremont and Franchard.

2. Eagle's Nest Valley—Mount Ussy—Augas Cave—View of the Racecourse and Mount Chauvet—Gorges and Rocks of the Solle—St. Germain Rock—Ecouettes Hedges—Emperor's Fort—Calvary—Sponge Rock and Nemorosa Viewpoint.

3. Rocher Bouligny—Rocher des Demoiselles—Gorge aux Loups 10 and Mare aux Fées—Long Rocher and Arcades de la Vanne by the Cross of the Grand Master.

The most scenic areas of the first drive, or maybe even the entire forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 miles northwest of Fontainebleau, and Franchard, about 2.5 miles west. The second drive offers the best spots for getting great overall views of the forest, like from Croix du Calvaire, near the train station, but especially from Fort de l’Empereur, about 2.5 miles north. The Gorge aux Loups in the third drive, 3.5 miles south, leads to a very picturesque area called the Long Rocher. If you can only take one drive, go for the first one, which is 3.25 miles by train from Fontainebleau.

After Fontainebleau is Thomery. Inn: Popardin, where the famous grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown widely on walls and trellises.

Moret. John the Fearless.

Paris Marseille 42 495 MORET, pop. 2000. Inn: Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing, with remains of fortifications from the 15th century, and the two old city gates Paris and Bourgogne. The church, which features some unique woodwork, mainly dates back to the 12th century. The portal and organ are from the 15th century. 7½ m. further southeast is Moutereau junction, where the Paris and Lyons railway connects with the Eastern railway system.

Montereau-faut-Yonne, population 7000; located about a mile from the town. Inn: Grand Monarque, where the bus stops, near the post office. Anyone who might need to wait for a train at this junction should, if time allows, take the bus up to the town and visit the parish church, which has beautiful columns that elegantly spread into the groin of the roof in the aisles. Hanging to the right of the high altar is the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church, a fine stone bridge, or rather two connected bridges, crosses the Seine and the Yonne, which merge here. On the piece of land between them stands an equestrian statue of Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne, a marble slab marks the spot where Jean Sans Peur was killed in 1419. On the steep hill overlooking the town is the beautiful modern castle of Surville. Montereau is known for its important potteries.

Sen. Thomas À Becket.

Paris Marseille 71 466 SENS on the Yonne, population 12,400. Inns: Paris; Écu. The best street, Rue Royale, runs from north to south. At the north end is the promenade, and as you head south down the street, you'll first see the statue of the chemist Thénard, followed by the cathedral. At the end of the street is the arch built to honor the Duchess of Angoulême when she visited this city in 1828. Behind it are wide boulevards that, along with the promenade, provide pleasant walking paths.

The Cathedral of St. Etienne began construction in 972 but was almost entirely rebuilt two centuries later. The façade, while somewhat attractive, feels heavy and solid. The south tower stands at 240 feet and has a belfry attached. Inside, paired columns alternate with sturdy piers along each side of the nave, supporting pointed arches above which is a triforium with round arches on clustered colonnettes. To the left of the 5th pier is a reredos adorned with sculptured canopies. In the chapel directly behind the high altar is a stunning marble relief depicting the death of St. Savinien, the first bishop of Sens, who was martyred in 240. In the chapel next door is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI, created by G. Coustou, along with statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the next, or 3rd, chapel, Becket used to serve. The wall painting by Bouchet, from 1846, shows his assassination. In 1166, he stayed at the abbey of St. Columba, located 1 mile from the cathedral, which is now home to the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are illuminated by beautiful stained glass; however, the best window is the second one to the right when entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple worn by Thomas à Becket, discovered in 1523 in an old house next to the cathedral; yet there is not enough evidence to verify they are authentic. Also in the same case is an ivory crucifix by Girardon. Behind it are Limoges enamels from the 15th century and two small marble paintings by A. del Sarto. Next to them is valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a document signed by St. Vincent de Paul. One of the shrines contains a bone from the arm of Simeon. Next to the cathedral is a hall known as the Officialité, restored by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 mile from the church, to the left of the main road. The only part of the current buildings that was present during Becket’s time is the section parallel to the Abbey Church. While in France, he mainly resided in the Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 miles south of St. Florentin, page 16, and 13 miles northeast of Auxerre, page 14. Becket was murdered at the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170 and was canonized two years later. Up until the Reformation, pilgrims visited his shrine from all over Christendom. A jubilee was celebrated every 50th year in his honor.

Troyes.

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41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop. 39,000. Hotels: At the station, the Grand Mulet. On the main street, Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent and Commerce. On Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers.

Troyes: Cathedral.

Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is located on the Seine, which was channeled in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals power the machinery of many factories that produce hosiery, paper, and linen, generating an annual average value of around two million pounds. Troyes is renowned for the number and beauty of its churches, the most significant being the Cathedral of St. Pierre et St. Paul, located on the eastern side of the town, with the railway station on the western side. This building, one of the most beautiful in France, began in 1208, but wasn't completed until the late 16th century, showcasing different architectural styles from these periods. The stunning western façade dates from the 16th century, while the portal of the northern transept is from the 13th century. Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the tower that rises above the western façade. The church is 352 feet long, and the transept is 154 feet wide. Two spacious aisles run along each side of the nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, with the front row topped by a narrow mullioned triforium and a tall clerestory, both illuminated by beautiful stained glass windows. The nave's roof reaches a height of 92 feet, while the dome rises to 192 feet. The stained glass in the choir windows, the rose windows in the transepts, and the western entrance behind the organ is from the 13th century. The marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel on the north side of the choir are from the 16th century, and the altarpiece, featuring wooden reliefs, is from the 17th century. Troyes: Henry V.
Simard Hall. Before the high altar in this church, Henry V. of England was betrothed to Princess Catherine, the daughter of Charles VI of France, on May 20, 1420. The next day, the famous treaty was signed, which secured the French crown for Henry by excluding the dauphin Charles, whenever the unfortunate mad Charles VI should pass away. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a Madonna by Simard, along with the window featuring the oldest glass in the church. A staircase to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury, which is not particularly interesting. It contains croziers from the 13th century, reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, along with enamels from the 12th century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. Within the reliquary of St. Bernard is a fragment of the skull of an Irish archbishop, St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few yards north of the cathedral is the building housing the Library, open from 10 AM to 3 PM, featuring 125,000 volumes and 3,600 manuscripts in a large hall, with windows made up of intricately painted panelled panes. Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul’s Epistles from the 12th century. In the same building, there’s the Museum, or picture gallery, showcasing paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.; and the Salle Simard, which has a valuable collection of the Models made by Simard for his statues and relief works. There are also some sculptures by Girardon and other French artists. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and holidays from 1 PM to 4 PM. On other days, a small fee is expected. A short distance east of the cathedral lies the Hospice, and a little further is St. Nizier, featuring painted panels in the windows of the sacristy. The stained glass in the church windows is from the 16th century. To the west, on Rue Urbain IV, is a stunning example of Gothic architecture, the church of St. Urbain, built by that Pope toward the end of the 13th century. The high altar is placed where his father used to sit while working as a cobbler. A short distance north is St. Remi, from the 14th century, with a bronze crucifix over the altar by Girardon. Directly west of St. Urbain, on Rue de l’Hotel de Ville, is the Hotel de Ville, built according to Mansard's plans, started in 1624 and finished in 1670. Beyond that is St. Jean, also from the 14th century. The high altar was sculpted by Girardon, while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos, is by Mignard. Behind it, in the chapel “O Sacrum Convivium,” are some impressive relief sculptures. From St. Jean, go north up Rue de Montabert. At the northeast corner of the first section is the Post Office; and at the end of the next section is La Madeleine, which began construction in the 12th century and is notable for its magnificent jubé, or rood-loft, built by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The beautiful windows behind the altar are from the same period. The nearly flat roof could have been called a triumph of Gothic architecture if the vaulting didn’t show signs of weakness. West of St. Jean is St. Nicolas, from the 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To the right of the entrance, a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a statue of our Saviour by Gentil, depicting him rising from the dead.

Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, from the 16th century. To the right upon entering, there's a Calvary by Gentil. The pulpit features beautiful bronze reliefs by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel of St. Crispin, the patron saint of shoemakers, which contains interesting groups. The windows are filled with rich glass, and the many statues on consoles give the church the look of a statue gallery.

South of St. Pantaleon Church on Rue de Croncels, which continues as Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St. Gilles. In this area, about 1.5 miles north of the Oratoire barracks, there's the village and church of St. André, notable for its west portal, built by the locals in 1549 and decorated by Gentil.

Those who want to drive through the town should stick to the order we've set. A taxi for four people costs 3 francs per hour, and for two people, it's 2 francs. However, make sure to ask to see the rate card before getting in.

Troy Weight.

The weight called Troy weight was brought from Cairo during the Crusades and was first used in this city. Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I during his battles in 1814.

Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.

Paris Marseille 79 458 Villenueve-sur-Yonne, pop. 5100. Hotel: Dauphin. In the old castle here of Pulteau, the man “with the iron mask” spent some days while on his way to the Bastille (p. 158). Villeneuve is connected to its suburb, Saint Laurent, by a bridge that is 700 ft. long. 5 m. further along, or 84 m. from Paris, is St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. Hotel: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town, nearly a mile from the station, but it has a beautiful church, most of the choir, along with the southern and northern porches, dating back to the 13th century, with the rest of the building from the 14th to 16th centuries. Overlooking the town and clearly visible from the station is a ruined chapel from the 13th century.

Paris Marseille 91 446 JOIGNY, pop. 7000. A great place to rest. Hotels: The Poste, located between the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right bank of the Yonne, which is the main promenade. The most significant part of the town is on the hill that rises from the promenade, where you'll find St. André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, from the 16th century; and St. Thibault, from the 15th century.

Paris MARSEILLE 96 441 LA ROCHE, located on the Canal de Bourgogne, where the Armançon meets the Yonne. There are spacious refreshment areas. It's where the branch line to Les Laumes connects, which is 79½ miles south, passing through Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles, Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p. 1.)

Auxerre.

12½ miles south of La Roche is Auxerre, with a population of 16,500, located on the Yonne River and on the hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. From the station, the most striking feature is the Cathedral; to the right is St. Germain, to the left is St. Pierre, and above St. Pierre is the Tour Guillarde or Clock Tower, located in the marketplace. The Cathedral, St. Etienne, was rebuilt in the 13th century over an 11th-century crypt. The tower above the western entrance stands 230 feet tall. Both the north and south portals are filled with statues. The total length of the church is 332 feet, with the transepts measuring 128 feet. There is a 110-foot distance between the floor and the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars reach a height of 79 feet. The large western window and the end windows of the north and south transepts feature stunning stained glass set in intricate flamboyant tracery. Next to the Cathedral is the Préfecture, which was formerly the Episcopal Palace and built in the 13th century. Close to the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of St. Germain, which has an interesting crypt dating back to the 9th century, though it was restored in the 17th century. Inquire with the concierge at the gate next to the now-isolated tower, which is 173 feet tall and built in the 11th century. St. Pierre, started in the 16th century and completed in the 17th century, features an Italian-Gothic style.

Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, established in the 12th century. The standout features of the church are the tower, the capitals of the grouped columns, and the stained glass windows surrounding the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the main walkway, there’s a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach service from Auxerre to Pontigny and Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)

13 miles east of Auxerre is Chablis, population 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, located on the Serein. The vineyards cover 30,000 acres and produce the famous white wine, with the best varieties being Val Mur, Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the vintage quality is high, the wines taste dry, are diuretic, and have a flinty flavor.

Cravant, population 1000, Inn: Hôtel de l’Espérance, situated on the Yonne, almost a mile from the station, owes its significance to its location at 15 the junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles to the south, and the line to Les Laumes, 56 miles to the southeast. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers via Clamecy and 116 miles from Paris via La Roche. (See map, page 1.)

Sermizelles. Vézelay.

37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles away), where a coach is ready for passengers. The fare is 1½ fr. At the station, there's a cozy little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where you can rent a private vehicle (20 frs.) to visit Vezelay, Pont Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles away, and St. Pêre; then return to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.

Vezelay, pop. 1300. Inn: Hôtel de la Poste. An old and rundown town on top of a hill, home to one of the finest church buildings in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le Duc. The narthex dates back to the 12th century, the nave and aisles to the 11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th centuries. The length of the building is 404 feet, and the height of the roof is 70 feet. The outside is plain, supported by simple receding flying buttresses. The doors and tympanum of the western entrance are framed by a wide, expanding circular arch with four sculpted ribs. Above it is a large window with boldly sculpted supports. Inside the doorway is a spacious narthex, where the triforium is filled with artifacts related to the monastery that used to be next to the church. To truly appreciate the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast structure, the door between the narthex and the nave must be opened. The nave and aisles are lit by forty small round-headed windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches rising from massive piers with attached columns decorated with the unique capitals from their era. A triforium surrounds the transept and choir. Eleven circular columns, each made from a single stone, support the arches that enclose the sanctuary. From the south side of the choir, a door leads into what was formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the 12th century. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who also built the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir. Near the abbey church are St. Martin’s, from the 12th century, and St. Etienne, which is now used as a storage room. The Port St. Croix, from the 15th century, along with parts of the fortifications, still remain. Becket. Thomas à Becket celebrated mass in the Madeleine on May 15, 1166; at that time, using the solemn forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced a sentence of excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have included Henry II himself, had he not been informed that the King was seriously ill at that moment. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to go on the third crusade. Vezelay is also the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June 24, 1519), one of the key figures of the Reformed Church. Calvin passed away in his arms.

1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, population 2000, featuring a beautiful church from the 14th century, but the graceful steeple dates back to the 13th century. 5 m. from St. Pêre is the Château Baroche, which was owned by Marshal Vauban.

9½ miles east of Sermizelles by train is Avallon, with a population of 6,000, located on the Cousin River. Hotels: Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The St. Lazare parish church, built in the 12th century, is a stunning yet somewhat unusual example of Burgundian architecture. A coach is ready for passengers at the station heading to Saulieu, which is 17 miles away and has a population of 4,000. Hôtel de la Poste is available there. It's an interesting town featuring the St. Andoche church, also from the 12th century. The vineyards in Avallon produce excellent wine, with the best varieties aging well in bottles for 15 to 20 years. Ten miles southwest of Avallon lies the Forêt de Morvan, from which Paris gets its firewood, transported down the Yonne and Seine rivers on rafts.

Semur.

After Avallon comes Rouvray, known for its vineyards that produce good wine, and then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, with a population of 4,150. Hotels: Côte d’Or; Commerce. It's beautifully located by the Armançon River, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I, Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in the 13th century, and repaired in 1450. The entrance features a sculptured porch. The windows of the north aisle contain impressive old glass; the images are depicted with great expression and charm. In this section, there’s a beautifully crafted tabernacle made from a single stone, standing 16½ feet tall. Each transept has a small cloister. There are also some nice walking paths around the town. The dungeon tower and parts of the ramparts are still standing. 12½ miles to the northeast, this branch line connects to the main line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map page 1.)

Saint Florentin.

Paris Marseille 107.5 429.5 SAINT FLORENTIN, population 3000. Inns: At the station, Hotel de la Gare. In town, Hotel Porte Dilo. Pilgrims heading to Pontigny get off here, where a coach leaves in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of Pontigny. There's a small inn at the spot where the Pontigny road diverges from the Chablis road.

Saint Florentin is situated on a rise over a mile from the station. The parish church, dating from the 12th to 15th centuries, is small but fascinating. The windows feature glass from the 15th and 16th centuries, restored with modern pieces. The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen made of slender columns positioned diagonally and is separated from the nave by a beautiful rood loft. Behind the intricately sculpted high altar is a relief from 1548, regrettably damaged, depicting the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.

At Pontigny, there’s a small but cozy inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi, but visitors to the shrine of St. Edmund usually stay in the abbey buildings. A coach goes from Pontigny to Auxerre, 13 miles southwest, every other day, stopping at a café near the station. Most of the church of Pontigny was constructed in 1150. It’s a simple, large structure with a narthex and a round turret at the main entrance. The interior is grand and impressive, measuring 355 ft. from west to east, 72 ft. wide, and 72 ft. high, supported by 30 arches rising from tall, massive piers. There are 11 chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed windows runs around the church below the arches, with another identical row above them. In an 18th-century shrine behind the high altar lie the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who passed away in 1243 at a nearby village. The original shrine, a simple wooden coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the building's interior is marred by a harsh screen set up to separate the sanctuary from the rest of the church, making it more comfortable for the villagers, as it has become their parish church. The abbey buildings, parts of which are still in good condition, were home to Becket. In the treasury is a black strip from a stole he used to wear, sewn onto another stole. There are also relics of St. Edmund and interesting documents related to him and others who lived here when it was a strict Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are decorated with engravings depicting scenes from the life of St. Edmund.

Becket arrived at this abbey on November 29, 1164, and stayed until Easter 1166. From Pontigny, he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to Sens.

Tonnerre.

Paris MARSEILLE 123 414 TONNERRE, pop. 6000, on the Armançon. Inns: Lion d’Or; Courriers—both close together. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion d’Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now closed) up to the cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, which is located on a terrace above the town. At the bottom of this hill is a beautiful spring of water, enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse Dionne; however, it is in a neglected part of the town and is used by the washerwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down to the hospital, which was built in 1834; the original part, constructed by Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the hospital church. Her remains rest under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar (died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some excellent wine.

Tanlay.

Paris Marseille 127.5 409.5 TANLAY, population 1000, located on the Armançon. A small village with a beautiful castle set in a large park. The oldest section was built by Guillaume de Montmorenci in 1520, but the majority was constructed by a brother of Admiral Coligny in 1559. The grand façade is flanked by two wings. The main courtyard measures 79 feet by 36 feet. In a room on the second floor of the Tour de la Ligue, the leaders of the Protestant movement would gather under Admiral Coligny’s leadership. A fresco on the ceiling portrays figures from the political and religious events of that time, disguised as the gods of Olympus. Catherine de Médicis is depicted as Juno, Charles IX as Pluto, and Condé as Mars. Surrounding the room are a series of uniquely designed recesses that connect with each other in the walls. The largest of the impressive fireplace mantels is 12½ feet tall and 7 feet wide. Beyond the castle grounds are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy and the well of St. Gaultier, both dating back to the 13th century. At this station, there's a coach to Cruzy-le-Chatel, population 1000, taking about 1 hour and 45 minutes, passing through forests and known for its truffles.

Ancy-le-Franc. Montbard.

Paris Marseille 136 401 ANCY-LE-FRANC, population 2000. The impressive castle here started construction in 1545 and was built based on the designs of Primaticcio.

Paris Marseille 142 395 NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES, population 700. Key junction with the Paris and Bâle line, near Troyes (see page 11), with a branch extending 72 miles northeast to Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles northeast of Nuits. In the surroundings of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the Rochefort castle, dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Paris Marseille 151 386 MONTBARD, population 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. Inn: Hôtel de la Poste. Buffon, the famous naturalist, was born in this small village on September 7, 1707. His château, a simple large house, is accessed from the end of the main street that is farthest from the station. The grounds are spacious and arranged in terraces. On the western side of the terrace is a small square house, with three windows and a door, where he would retreat at five in the morning to focus on his studies. He stored his manuscripts in another building. In the château grounds, along the path below the dungeon tower of the castle of the Dukes of Bourgogne, stands a small column erected in his memory by his son, who fell victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, just fifteen days before the fall of that monster. At the entrance of the grounds, on a terrace, sits the parish church, which contains Buffon's tomb. A black stone slab over the door has the following inscription:—

Buffon
Was buried in the
Tomb of this chapel
On April 20, 1788.

There’s also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is the abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; it's now a paper mill.

Paris Marseille 160 377 LES LAUMES. Inn: H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount Auxois, 1,370 ft. above sea level. Near the top, about 1½ miles from the station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. Inn: H. du Cheval Blanc), where Julius Caesar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls led by Vercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, with a pedestal designed by V. le Duc, stands just above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th century) features some interesting sculptures. It's visited by pilgrims on September 7th. Four miles from Les Laumes is Château Bussy Rabutin, set in a beautiful 84-acre park, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of the abbey of Fontenay, around the year 1150. It houses a valuable collection of portraits of historical figures by well-known artists. (See page 14.)

Paris Marseille 165 372 DARCEY, population 850, located 2 miles from its station, at the base of steep mountains rising 1315 ft. Inn: Hôtel Guyot. Close to the village are interesting caves and an underground lake, which is the source of the Douix. Shuttle service available at the station for Flavigny, 1½ miles away, population 1300, situated on a hill 1390 ft. above the Lozerain. Remnants of impressive old walls can be found. The church dates back to the 13th century, featuring a rood-loft from the 16th century. Houses from the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries are also present. There’s a convent of the Ursulines that offers a stunning view.

Source of the Seine River.

Paris Marseille 171.25 365.75 VERREY, pop. 900. Inns: Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. This is the station for the Source of the Seine, located 6¼ miles south via a path over the hill through the woods, but 9¼ miles by the carriage road, which follows the railway until the village of Villotte, pop. 800. From there, it goes uphill toward Bligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, which is 5 miles from Verrey. After passing the farmhouse Bonne Rencontre, it joins the Dijon road. Then turn left and follow the Dijon road a little beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte d’Or) marker, where you'll take the narrow road to the left. This road first passes the farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine (1545 feet above sea level), located under a decorative grotto in a small garden surrounded by a railing. The caretaker lives in the house beyond. The small infant stream flows out beneath a reclining statue of the river goddess. A round trip by coach costs 10 frs., or a guide is available for 5 frs. It's not necessary to return to Verrey; those who prefer can go back via the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles south, pop. 1000. Inns: Mack; Soleil d’Or. It features a 14th-century church. There’s a coach service between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seine is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ miles away.

Paris Marseille 179 358 BLAIZY-BAS, located at the start of the tunnel that goes through the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet long and sits 1,330 feet above sea level.

Paris Marseille 190 347 VELARS, pop. 1400. After the previous station of Malain, and before you get to the next station, Plombières-sur-Ouche, there’s some impressive railway engineering. The Combe-Bouchard viaduct has two tiers of arches and is 492 feet long, while the Neuvon viaduct is 774 feet long. From Velars, you can start the branch to Nevers via Autun, which is 74½ miles from Nevers. (For Autun, see page 24.)

Paris MARSEILLE 196 341 DIJON, pop. 48,000. There are good refreshment rooms at the station. Hotels: La Cloche on Rue Guillaume, and the Jura near the station. Close to La Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch are the Bourgogne and the Nord. On Rue Bossuet, you'll find the Genève. Dijon is known for its mustard, gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.

Cabs cost €1.75 for the first hour and €1.50 for each additional hour. There are daily coaches to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St. Seine. The St. Seine line starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce, 82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine, there's a great road that leads to the source of the Seine, which is 5 miles away. (See page 19.)

Dijon: Guards' Hall. Museums.

The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which was home to Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire; however, only the Tour de Brancion, the Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground floor, and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high and accessible by 323 steps, remain of that ancient structure, providing a bird’s-eye view of the entire town. The rest is modern and houses the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the École des Beaux Arts, various museums, and a Protestant church. The museum is located on the right side of the large courtyard and is open to the public on Sundays. On other days, a fee of 1 fr. is charged. In the Salle des Gardes are the magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi (1342-1404) and his son Jean Sans Peur (1371-1419), along with his wife Margaret of Bavaria. Of the two, the first is the more intricate. It is made of pure black and white marble, surrounded by a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the items that belonged to them in this room are three beautifully carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service; and under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and the crozier of St. Robert, the first abbot of the Cistercian order, who died in 1098. 21 The chimney in this hall is 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Two statues of knights in armor stand on it, appearing to be a yard tall each, but they are actually 6 feet 2 inches. The picture gallery has a few select paintings and some good statues. No. 402, St. Jerome, is considered one of the best. Downstairs is the Musée Archéologique, and the kitchen, which is nearly 50 feet square and has 6 chimneys. In front of the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with shops and homes arranged in a semi-circle. Behind the palace is the Rue des Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, which was formerly the residence of the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the spiral staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches tall, on a pedestal at the top step, depicting a manciple or serving man carrying a basket on his right shoulder, from which almost a score of vaulting ribs spring, resembling stems of wheat, for the roof that encloses the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand, features a beautiful Renaissance façade, with some sculpture in the courtyard. On Nos. 52 and 54 on this same street is a reproduction of the type of double arch seen in the Hôtel de Ville. Dijon: Notre Dame.
St. Benigne. Close to the Rue des Forges is Notre Dame, consecrated in 1331, which is an incredibly beautiful and interesting example of Burgundian architecture. At the east end is the house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and further east, at Rue Chaudronnière, is the Maison des Cariatides. A short distance from the front of the Hôtel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, which was formerly the palace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises is made of massive carved chestnut wood from the 17th century. The crucifixion in the same room is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the charming little chapel that belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre is St. Etienne, founded in the 10th century and partly rebuilt in the 18th century, which is now the corn market. At the end of this same street, R. Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th century and featuring a few interesting frescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe and looking down the Rue Guillaume, to the left is the château built by Louis XI in 1478, or what remains of it, now converted into the Gendarmerie; and a bit to the northeast, across a wide boulevard, is the Place and statue of St. Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the château next to the curious little church, 2 miles northwest along the road of that name. To the right is St. Benigne, easily recognized by its slightly twisted needle spire, built in 1742, 300 feet high, and slightly leaning due to the storm of 1805. The crypt and porch date back to the 11th century, while the rest belongs to the 13th century. In the south aisle is the 22 slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski (1388), and adjacent is the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In the north aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are the remains of Jean Sans Peur. Close to St. Benigne is St. Philibert, from the 12th century, featuring a narthex and a beautiful spire with crockets. It is currently used as a storage facility for artillery. Dijon: St. Jean. Bossuet.
Asile des Aliénés. From here, the narrow Rue des Novices leads to St. Jean, which was founded, as noted on the plaque in the church, in the 2nd century, rebuilt in 1458, and restored in 1866. The roof vault is bold, the window tracery is nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings are quite impressive. Bossuet was baptized in this church, having been born in No. 10 of this “Place” on September 27, 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent and notable prelate, the most acclaimed is the funeral oration for Henrietta Anne, the daughter of Charles I and wife of the Duke of Orleans. To the south is St. Anne, built in 1690. At the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance to the Asile des Aliénés, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379. A fee of 1 fr. is charged. The chapel's portal (from the 14th century) features kneeling effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Saints Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are depicted in the exquisite stained glass (from the 15th century) of the chancel windows. Visitors are then taken to the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, consisting of a hexagonal pedestal, with a statue of each of the prophets on each side, crafted by Claux Sluter in the 14th century, the same sculptor responsible for the ducal monuments in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful, while that of Zachariah is the most expressive. The house typically accommodates around 500 patients. Dijon may not be a tourist town, but it's a great place to rest during a long journey. The Cloche and Jura are comfortable hotels, and though La Galêre is less so, its prices are more reasonable, and the food is better. There are several pleasant walking paths. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d’eau, and at the foot of the train station are the Botanic Gardens. Towards the end of the gardens stands a black poplar that is 490 years old. The southern continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads via the Rue Chabot Charny, through Place St. Pierre, and along the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long) to the public park. From Dijon, the train travels southward parallel to the slopes of the famous wine-producing hills of the Côte d’Or, which extend from northeast to southwest and rise to an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them rises another range of hills, reaching 1315 feet and protecting the lower hills from cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault, some of the best Burgundy wines are produced, while south of Meursault, you find the 23 Macon wines. Top-quality Burgundy reaches its peak flavor after aging in the bottle for ten years. The lower quality wines rarely last for more than three years.

Gevrey-Chambertin.

Paris MARSEILLE 203 334 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, 1¼ miles from the station, population 2000. Known for their high-quality wines, particularly the red and white Chambertin. Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, located in Gevrey, also produce top-notch Burgundies.

Paris Marseille 206.25 330.75 VOUGEOT, on the Vouge, pop. 500, ¾-mile from the station. Inn: Groffier. Here, there are over 125 acres of vineyards producing top-quality Burgundies. Some of the most notable are Romanée St. Vivant, Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache.

Paris Marseille 209.5 327.5 NUITS, pop. 4000. Inn: Trois Maures. A bus is waiting for passengers. The best vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine with an amazing flavor and a subtle, delicious aroma. The church, St. Symphorien, dates back to the 13th century, and St. Denis to the 14th. 8 miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a facility for young offenders, who are trained here to become agricultural workers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in 1098, once had 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order, and four of its abbots went on to hold the keys of St. Peter. Most of the buildings were rebuilt in 1798.

Beaune.

Paris Marseille 219 318 BEAUNE, pop. 12,000. Hotels: Chevreuil; France. On the Buzoise River. This town is the hub for merchants who trade in Burgundy wines, just as Bordeaux is for claret merchants. Surrounding it are top-quality vineyards like Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Among these, the Volnay vineyards, covering 532 acres, produce the most sought-after wines, known as Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, while the Pommard vineyards produce wines labeled Commarine. The town has a shabby appearance. The main church, Notre Dame, established in the 12th century, features semicircular arches, equilateral triangular arches, and cusped and Corinthian capitals.

In Place Monge, off de l’Ile street, there’s a bronze statue of Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, who was born in Beaune in 1746. France owes him for founding the Polytechnic School. Next to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the 15th century—a curious and interesting building. The upstairs Salle de Conseil is decorated with Aubusson tapestries and also features a painting of the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. 24 Near Beaune is Savigny, which has a château built in 1672; nearby are the Fontaine Froide, the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.

Meursault.

PARIS MARSEILLES 223.5 313½ MEURSAULT, pop. 3000, 1½ miles from the station. The bus is waiting for passengers heading to the Inn. The most notable wines produced here are Goutte d’Or, a golden-colored wine, and Perrières, a dry white wine with a slightly sulfurous taste. Nearby is Puligny, where the delicious sparkling white wine known as Montrachet is produced.

Paris Marseille 228 309 CHAGNY, pop. 4200. Inn: Commerce. Junction with the line to Nevers 102 m. W., passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. W., and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page 25, and map page 1). From Chagny going south begins the Macon wines, with the vineyards around Chagny producing a top-quality variety.

Nolay, pop. 5000. Accommodations: Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in this area produce a nice white Macon. A few miles away is the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, featuring cliffs that are 200 ft. high. In a deep crevice is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ miles to the east are the ruins of the 15th-century Rochepot castle. The village church has an amazing echo. 8 miles further is Epinac, pop. 5000, which has coal mines.

Autun.

26 miles west of Chagny is Autun, population 13,000. Hotels: Poste; Cloche. This modernized little town, the ancient Bibracte, proudly claims, alongside Trèves, the distinction of having been established before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent a winter here with two Roman legions; later, when Emperor Augustus traveled to Gaul, he made Bibracte his headquarters and constructed so many impressive public buildings that the town's name was changed to Augustodonum, now known as Autun. Napoleon III, in his “History of Cæsar,” argues that the original site of Bibracte was atop Mount Beauvray, 14 miles to the west, where coins from Gaul, mosaic floors, pottery fragments, and a vast number of amphorae have been uncovered. The walls of Autun measured 10,000 feet in circumference and were 8 feet thick, adorned with 40 towers and featuring four large gates, two of which—the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high, and the recently restored Porte St. André—still stand today. The Porte d’Arroux and the plain square tower of the temple of Janus are located behind the railway station. The Porte St. André, next to an ancient church, is on the town side of the line at Faubourg St. Jean. The Cathedral, which overlooks the whole city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern parts is Gothic, while the older sections are Romanesque. The two towers have been restored and topped with Gothic spires. Inside, there are several stained glass windows. The entrance features an elegant open portico with sculpted arches and columns. From the Porte St. 25 Blaise (straight up from the cathedral), a crossroad leads to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great antiquity.

In the College, there is the Public Library, with 12,000 books, and the Picture Gallery, featuring paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789, Talleyrand, who later became Prince Talleyrand, was the Bishop of Antun.

Montchanin. Le Creusot.

73 miles east of Moulins, 86 miles east of Nevers, and 18 miles west of Chagny, is Montchanin, population 2500. Inn: H. des Minis; its shuttle is ready for passengers. The town, almost a mile from the station, mainly consists of homes for the workers at the nearby coal mines, foundries, and large artistic brick and tile factories. Just outside the town is the Étang Berthaud, the reservoir for the Canal du Centre, which links the Saône with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.

78¼ km east of Nevers, 7¾ km west of Montchanin, and 26 km west of Chagny, is Le Creusot, with a population of 25,000, of whom 6,300 work in the ironworks. Hotels: Commerce; Rodrigue, located close to each other on the main street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches are ready for passengers. Le Creusot is positioned on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills surrounding this valley, which is 1¼ miles long and ½ mile wide, filled with the coal pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, acquired from the previous owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Scattered suburbs are spread across the other slopes of the hills. Generally, the area is characterized by somewhat messy streets and houses, with parks, shops, and cafes available. The streets are lively with children, but there are few priests, police officers, and beggars. In the main square, near the two hotels, stands a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878 by the workers and residents. The view of the factories from the road is impressive, and despite the numerous chimneys and various heavy machinery, it is surprisingly quiet.

West of Le Creusot, and 65¼ miles east of Nevers, is Etang, featuring an ancient castle. 51½ miles east of Nevers is Luzy, population 3,000, located on the Alène. Inn: H. Delaigue, near the station. Coach service is available, taking 12 miles to St. Honoré-Les-Bains, known for its alkaline sulphurous springs at 90° Fahrenheit. 33 miles east of Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, situated on the Aron River, 53 miles south of Clamecy by rail, alongside the Canal Nivernais. Inn: H. de la Croix, close to the station. 23½ miles east of Nevers is Decize, population 4,800. Inns: Paris; Commerce. An omnibus awaits passengers. Decize is located on an island in the Loire, at the junction with the Aron River and the Canal Nivernais, which starts here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish church features an 11th-century choir, a 16th-century nave, and a 10th-century crypt holding the tomb of St. Aré. There are foundries, glass bottle works, and coal mines in the area. A coach from Decize to La Machine takes about 80 minutes.

Chalon-sur-Saône.

Paris MARSEILLE 235 302 Chalon-sur-Saône, population 21,000. Hotels: at the station, Hôtel Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. There's a steamer to Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town located on a large plain by the Saône, at the entrance of the Canal du Centre, both lined with good quays. The main buildings are—St. Vincent, a Gothic structure from the late 13th century, built on the site of a church established in 532; St. Peter, built in 1713, featuring two tall steeples; and the hospitals of St. Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two train stations—one in the town and another at St. Come, where the express trains stop. 2 miles from Chalon is St. Marcel, where Abélard died in 1142. The church still exists, but the monastery has vanished. A few miles to the west by coach is Givry, population 3,200, with top-quality vineyards. Rail to

Paris Marseille 243 294 VARENNES. Heading south from this station, the train goes by the abbey of St. Ambreuil.

Paris Marseille 254 283 TOURNUS, on the Saône, pop. 6200. Inn: Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. It's a messy town on the Saône, with remnants of Roman fortifications. In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, there’s a marble statue of Greuze, put up by the locals in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, whose works are some of the best paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born here on August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting Gothic structure, with the oldest parts dating back to the 9th century and the newest to the 16th century. The interior is decorated with mosaics. The Hôtel Dieu was established in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718, and the Hôtel de Ville was built more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce good wines.

opp. 27 the RHONE & SAVOY
with the routes from
FRANCE TO ITALY

Macon.

Paris Marseille 274 263 MACON, pop. 20,000. At the station, there are large refreshment rooms. There’s a connection with the line to Bourg, 41 m. E. Hotels.—Near the station, H. Étrangers. In the town, the Europe hotel is on the Quai du Nord, close to the landing place for the steamers that travel daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons, Macon, and Lyons. In the center of town are the Champs Elysées and Sauvage hotels. Macon is the main hub for Macon wines, which are a lesser Burgundy. The most attractive part of town is along the quays on the right side of the Saône, connected by a stone bridge with 12 arches, linking Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of the river. The oldest building is the Cathedral of St. Vincent, built in the 12th century. The arches are raised, the columns are Romanesque, and the porch is arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, which used to be the Episcopal palace. In this area, 27 at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house where Lamartine was born. On a black marble plaque above the door are the words:—Ici est né Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre 1790.

In Rue Dombey, there's an old timber house, and near the station is the stunning St. Pierre church, built in 1865 in the Romanesque style and adorned with frescoes. Across from it is the City Hall.

From Macon, a branch line goes 48 miles west to Paray-le-Monial, passing Cluny, which is 15 miles from Macon. There’s also a line from Macon to Geneva, 74 miles to the east, through Bourg, 13.5 miles to the east, Nantua, and Bellegarde, 39.75 miles to the east. (See Black’s France, North Half, and map page 1.)

Cluny. Paray-le-Monial.

Cluny, population 5000. Located in the valley of the Grosne. Hotels: Bourgogne; Pavilions—both close to each other. This is where Guillaume-le-Pieux established the famous abbey of Cluny in the 10th century. The abbey buildings now serve as a school. Only a small part of the abbey church remains, and the most interesting feature is the spire. In the Chapelle des Bourbons (15th century) are large corbels under the empty niches. About 300 yards away is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th century, with flattened elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. At the entrance, there's a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the first church founded in the 10th century. Upstairs, there is a small museum; entrance fee is ½-franc each.

41½ miles east of Moulins and 33 miles from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial, population 3,700, on the Bourbince River. Inns: The Poste, the best option; across the bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the top of the main street, near the Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; across from the Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de Justice, featuring the clock tower, stands on the site of a building constructed in the 16th century, which also includes the neighboring house that houses the Mairie and the Post Office.

A short distance down the Bourbince is the former abbey, now the parish church, established in the 11th century but almost completely rebuilt in the 12th century. Two graceful square towers with pyramidal roofs from the 11th century rise above the façade, while an octagonal tower with two levels, topped by a slender eight-sided slate spire, rises from the center of the transepts. The apse is surrounded by chapels decorated with dental friezes and short attached columns.

Marguerite.

From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads up to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order founded in 1620 and established in Paray on September 4, 1626, by eight nuns from the monastery of Bellecour in Lyons. In 1633, they started building their chapel, which was repaired in 1823 and renovated and beautified in 1854. The order places great importance on this chapel, as it was here that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her encounters with J. C. Inside, the walls and ceiling are painted light brown, adorned with frescoes and daisies, but they are so covered with banners and votive offerings, mainly hearts, that much of the artwork is obscured. The first painting on the right depicts J. C. and three angels before Marguerite. The second shows J. C., with flowing yellow hair and dressed in white, bending down to touch the head of kneeling Marguerite with his heart (which is very red and outside his garment), while she raises her hands near her neck. The third is a full-length portrait of her. To the left of the entrance, the paintings are: first, a vision; second, Mary, sitting on a cloud, placing the child Jesus into Marguerite's arms; third, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The picture above the high altar depicts the moment in this place when J. C. is said to have told Margaret: "I have chosen and sanctified this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here forever." On July 2, 1688, Mary, in great splendor and majesty, appeared to Marguerite accompanied by numerous angels, and informed her that the orders of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the special duty of promoting the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship, there is a regular litany consisting of 31 invocations to the heart of J. C. Many Roman Catholic churches feature a painting depicting one of the incidents mentioned above.

The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax and dressed in the habit of her order, lie on a silver embroidered cloth in a coffin-like shrine made of richly gilded, tiny glazed arches set with rock crystal. Her face and hands are exposed. The body measures 5 feet long. On her feast day, the shrine is placed next to the Communion rail; at other times, it's kept within a beautifully crafted altar table made from a single piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born on July 22, 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun. She entered the convent of the Visitation in Paray on May 25, 1671, and took her vows on November 6, 1672. On the day when Jesus told her she was chosen to spread the worship of His heart, she was struck by a pain in her own heart that lasted her entire life. Initially, she faced considerable opposition in her efforts to establish this worship, and her fellow nuns regarded her as a visionary until 1675 when Father de la Colombière, the superior of the Jesuit establishment at Paray, became her convert. During her final illness, she said, "I will die in peace because the heart of my Savior is beginning to be known." She passed away in October 1690 and was canonized by Pio IX on October 14, 1864. Since the establishment of Our Lady of Lourdes and La Salette, the number of pilgrims has decreased. In Paray, there are three convents and a large building belonging to the Jesuits.

From Macon, the railway keeps going alongside the Saône, where the banks become more scenic. From Macon, use map on page 26.

Romaneche. Belleville.

Paris Marseille 283 254 ROMANECHE, pop. 3000. Inn: Commerce. It makes a light, delicate wine with a nice flavor and aroma called Moulin-a-Vent, which is best enjoyed in its second year after the harvest.

Paris MARSEILLES 288.5 248.5 BELLEVILLE, pop. 4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and then there's Belleville, 1¼ m. from the station, with a cozy little inn, the H. Jambon. There's a bus at the station. The church, dating back to the 12th century, has small round and pointed windows, featuring some beautiful stained glass, especially in the square towers at the end of the transept and the small circular window above the west portal. This is the center for Beaujolais wines. From Belleville, a branch line goes 10 m. W. to Beaujeu, pop. 4000, located by the Ardière. The church there is from the 13th century, and there are some interesting houses. (Map, page 26.)

Paris Marseille 297 240 Villefranche-sur-Saône, population 12,600, located on the Morgan River, near the Saône. Hotels: Provence; Europe. It has significant linen factories and vineyards that produce good white wine. The parish church, N. D. des Marais, was started in the 14th century. Trévoux station is 5½ miles south and 1½ miles from the town, which has a population of 3,000, situated on the east bank of the Saône. Inns: Terrasse; France. The Jesuits produced and published the Journal de Trévoux in this town in 1701 and the Dictionnaire de Trévoux in 1704.

Paris Marseille 306 231 ST. GERMAIN au-mont-d’or, connection with the line from Paris to Lyons, via Roanne and Tarare.

Lyons.

30 [West]
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[East]

Paris Marseille 318 219 LYONS, population 343,000. The Perrache train station is 218 miles from Paris, 219 miles from Marseilles, 78 miles from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ miles from Bourg, 104 miles from Geneva, 36 miles from St. Etienne, 56 miles from Roanne, 100 miles from Vichy, and 214 miles from Turin.

Hotels (first-class).—H. de l’Europe, perfectly located, with one side facing the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other toward Place Bellecour, the hub for some of the best trams. In Rue de la République, you'll find H. Collet and H. de Lyon. H. Bellecour is in Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts is located on R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, which is also well-placed. Below the station in Place Perrache, you'll find the hotels Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux, and du Parc.

Cheaper Hotels.—The H. du Globe and the Havre et du Luxemburg—both close to Place Bellecour. Near Place des Terreaux on R. Platière, there's the H. de Paris et du Nord. Close to the Bourse, the H. des Négociants is a large place mainly visited by businesspeople. Nearby, at No. 47 Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, you’ll find the H. Bayard. Hôtel des Étrangers is located at Place de la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg costs 8 frs. and is situated in Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National is across from the theater. On the Quai de la Charité, close to the General Hospital, is the H. Bourne. Many carriages depart from this area. Hôtel de France et des 4 Nations, at 9 Rue St. Catherine, near Place des Terreaux, is one of the most affordable. Some of the best cafés include Café Anglais, opposite the Bourse; Casati at No. 8; Café Neuf at No. 7; Maderni at No. 19 R. de la République; and Café du Rhône at Place Bellecour. They offer English newspapers. In Lyons, the term Comptoir refers to bars that serve wines, cordials, and brandies.

Post Office.—Main Post Office in Place de la Charité, at the south end of Place Bellecour. Local Post Offices in the arcade of Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.

Telegraph.—Main office, No. 53 Place de la République. Branch offices—Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 Cours Morand.

Lyons: Train Stations. Taxi Rates.

Railway Stations.—The main train station is the Gare de Perrache, located in the central area between the Rhône and the Saône rivers. From there, passengers can access any location, except for those on the line to Bourg. The Bourg or Satonay train station is at the top of Rue Terme, which starts near the northeast corner of Place des Terreaux. The train is pulled up the hill from Rue Terme by a rope, just like at Fourvière. The incline is 16 percent, and the distance is 547 yards. At the top station, located on Boulevard de la Croix Rousse, passengers heading to Bourg can board regular train carriages. The rope railway operates every 5 minutes, with a fare of 1d., providing a convenient way to escape the damp, foggy atmosphere of Lyon. The Dombes or St. Paul’s railway station serves Montbrison, 40 miles southwest. The Vaise and Brotteaux stations are extensions of the Perrache station. The Brotteaux station, located at the edge of Parc de la Tête d’Or, is the terminus of the best tram lines.

The "coupés" are taxis with a seat for two. The "berlines" are taxis with 2 seats for four. Each suitcase costs 25 cents. At the train stations, the buses from the hotels wait for passengers.

Lyons: Trams. Theaters. Boats.

Tramways.—The fares are reasonable, and most of the cars are comfortable. The best route for seeing the main areas of the city is the large, spacious car running between the Perrache railway station and the Brotteaux railway station. This route goes through P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and P. de la République, between the Hôtel de Ville and the Grand Theatre, across the Morand bridge, and up the Cour Morand to the terminus at the Brotteaux railway station. At the Brotteaux terminus, the road by the fort "des Charpennes" leads in 5 minutes to the Parc de la Tête d’Or (see page 40). After visiting, you can either return on the same car, which leaves every 10 minutes, or take the other car that terminates at the Quai de la Charité. The fare for riding on the outside of the cars, also taken by women, is 3 sous; inside, it's 4. The two most important places to visit on the way back are the Palais des Arts (page 35) and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38). Trams run between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes, with an outside fare of 3 sous. To visit where the two rivers meet, get off at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons, with a population of 4000, can also be accessed by train from Lyons.

Theatres.—The Grand Théâtre, between the City Hall and the Rhône. Boxes and front stalls, 6 frs. The Théâtre des Célestins, between Rue St. Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls, 4 frs. Théâtre Bellecour, 85 Rue de la République, is a brand-new theater with all the modern comforts and seating for 3,000. Prices vary depending on the performance. For an opera, stalls are 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the Théâtre des Variétés on Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase at 30 Quai St. Antoine; and the Théâtre de l’Elysée at 3 Place de la Victoire.

Steamers on the Saône (Les Guèpes).—Take a boat between Quai St. Antoine (north of the Bourse) and Collonges, stopping at Ile Barbe. In the summer, there are 5 departures every day.

Les Mouches, or penny boats, set off from the dock near Place Perrache, next to the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on the Quai de Vaise, stopping at several stations along the way. From the Pont du Port, another group of penny boats travels up to St. Rambert, also stopping at various stations. Across from St. Rambert is Cuire, and in the middle of the river between them is the Ile Barbe.

The big steamers, Parisiens, operate in the summer between Quai St. Claire on the Rhône and Aix-les-Bains on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. The fare is 9 francs. Another route runs between Lyon and Avignon, stopping at the main towns along the way, but mainly for loading and unloading cargo.

Lyons: Attractions.

Sights.—Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see below). Take a tram ride, preferably outside, between Place Perrache and Brotteaux railway station, page 31. The Parc de la Tête d’Or, page 40. The galleries in the Palais des Arts, page 35. The museum of silk manufacture, page 38.

Lyons is a heavily fortified city, intersected by two of the largest rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which create an isthmus 545 ft. above sea level where the best part of the city is located. This area is crossed by three major streets: Rue de la République, R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and R. Centrale, and features the three most significant and beautiful squares: Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place Perrache, located in front of the station, was landscaped with trees in 1851. In the center stood a bronze statue of Napoleon I by Nieuwerkerke, which was removed in 1870 and later destroyed by the municipality. A fountain now occupies that space. The Place Bellecour (Bella-Curia), measuring 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also lined with trees. In the center is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV by Lemot, replacing a previous statue by Desjardins that was destroyed in 1793. Trams connecting all the major parts of the city run through these two squares. The Place des Terreaux, which saw a flood of human blood in 1794 during the Reign of Terror, has the Palais des Arts on its south side, the Hôtel de Ville to the east, and a block of buildings with an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin on the west side (see page 37).

The Rhône has 9 bridges, and the Saône has 13. The large and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers stretch for 24 miles. For traveling on the Rhône, the best steamers are the Bateaux Parisiens, which depart from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind the Hôtel de Ville, and operate between Lyon and Avignon. For short trips on the Saône, the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page 31.

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Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Cable Car.

The most notable building in Lyon is the church of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, located on the site of the forum built by Trajan, known as the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; hence, the term Fourvière is believed to have originated. It should be visited as soon as possible, even if there's no time for anything else, due to the amazing panoramic view of the city that can be enjoyed from its terraces. At the west end of the Tilsitt bridge over the Saône, on the upper side of 33 the “Place,” is the rope railway, which travels through tunnels up the hill of Fourvière, extending the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the way up the hill. The fare is 5 sous. From the station, walk up the broad road, l’Antiquaille, on the right. At the top of this road, you’ll find a large, unattractive building, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, primarily focused on treating mental health issues and skin diseases. It has space for 600 patients, and it stands on the site of the Roman palace where Claudius and Caligula were born. In front of this hospital begins a narrow, steep road called the Montée de Fourvière, lined almost entirely with small shops offering goods for the pilgrims and devotees, like images, crucifixes, amulets, rosaries, medals, photographs, and books. At the top, there are restaurants and hotels.

On the summit, 1,206 feet above sea level and 410 feet above the Saône, stands the chapel with the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, topped by a domed tower with a gilded statue of Mary that is 6.5 feet tall. You can climb the 200 steps to the tower for a fee of 25 cents, and it offers an amazing view of the city and surrounding areas. Lyons and its two major rivers lie directly below, and on clear days, you can see Mont Blanc in the distance. The sacred image in the church below is about the size of a large doll, with a slightly smaller child. As the number of worshippers grew, a more elegant and spacious church was built next door in 1884. This church is right on the edge of the hill and is the most noticeable structure in Lyons. It has a rectangular shape, featuring an octagonal tower 115 feet high at the eastern end, which serves as the chancel. Each of the four corners has a similar tower, and along each side, there are three large windows separated by buttresses resembling square towers. At the top of the building and the towers, there's a balustrade adorned with sculptures that look like acanthus leaves. The large buildings nearby are convents. Lyons: Gay Observatory.
St. Paul. A bit to the east is the “Observatoire Gay,” which has a steep path, the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, that leads down to the city, arriving next to the station of the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Close to this station is the church of St. Paul, which is mostly modern except for the beautiful north portal, the impressive octagonal lantern sitting on pendentive arches, a few of the windows, and part of the walls that belonged to the original 11th-century church. The old walls that remain in all the early churches of Lyons are notable for the enormous size of the stones used to make them. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent.

Lyons: St. Irénée.

The end of the rope railway from Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 Rue Trion, higher up to the northwest of Fourvière and just a short distance from the church of St. Irénée, located on top of a hill in the St. Just suburb. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée, there is a Via Crucis and Calvary, offering a stunning view of the plain served by the Rhône and the Saône rivers. Next to the church is the entrance to the crypt. The first flight of stairs has 25 steps, and the second, which leads into the crypt, has eight steps. On the first arch over the first flight, there’s an inscription that reads: “This crypt was built by St. Patient, Bishop of Lyon, in the 5th century on the site where St. Pothin and St. Irénée, sent to Lyon by Polycarp, a disciple of the Apostle St. John, gathered the first Christians. Many martyrs were buried here.” On the second arch, another inscription states that in 1562, the Calvinists damaged the crypt and mixed animal bones with those of the saints. Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée, restored the building, separated the bones, and placed the saints' bones in a small vault to the right, at the bottom of the first flight of stairs. In the center of the crypt, there’s a now-covered well, the original burial place of the martyrs, where their bodies were thrown until it overflowed with blood during the reign of Septimius Severus, A.D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt, see the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée doesn't have anything special. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct that brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long and could supply 11,000,000 gallons per day. Currently, Lyon’s water supply comes from the Rhône.

Lyons: St. John Cathedral.

Opposite the start of the rope railway and near the Tilsit bridge is the Cathedral of Saint Jean, established in the 8th century, renovated by Archbishop Leydrade, a friend of Charlemagne, and almost completely rebuilt three centuries later. The chancel dates back to the late 12th century, the lower part of the façade is from the 13th century, and the upper part is from the 14th century. The exterior has simple decorations, but the four towers are a bit short. Inside, which is 259 feet long from west to east and 108 feet high, there is some stunning glass from the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries. The rose window at the west end looks like a fully bloomed flower. The clerestory windows are impressive and elegant. To the right is the chapel built by Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother Pierre, who was the son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows featuring their portraits, along with the unique wheel window at the end, are remarkable. The soffits of the arches and the vault of the roof are lavishly decorated. In the north transept is the now non-functional clock made by Nicholas Lippeus of Basel in 1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. Pothinus, an Asian Greek who preached in this city CE 177 and paid for his beliefs with his life. Next to the south aisle is the Manécanterie, built in the 11th century, which used to be the bishop’s residence but is now the music school for the choir boys.

A little further down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt), which was occupied in the 13th century by the Knight Templars. Above the cathedral is the Palais de Justice, designed by Baltard, the architect of the large market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade of 24 Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the courtrooms around it are too small. The bridge further up—the Pont de Nemours—leads directly to the church of Saint Nizier, which has its façade facing the bridge and the chancel facing the Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville. The beautiful portal topped by twin spires was created by Philibert Delorme, a native of Lyons, and dates back to the 16th century. The rest of the building is from the 15th century. Inside, a broad triforium with heavily-canopied window openings surrounds the church. The vaulting shafts expand in an unusual way over the roof. In the chapel of the south transept, there is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the base of the pier in this transept, a trapdoor opens into the crypt, dating from the 10th century. On the south side of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, a modern building, featuring a beautiful portal from the 11th century, which is all that remains of the original church.

Lyons: Palace of Fine Arts. Gemstone Museum.

On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the Palais des Beaux-Arts, built in 1667, which used to be a convent for the Dames Bénédictines de Saint-Pierre. It houses the picture galleries and museums. It's open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and holidays, from 11 AM to 4 PM, and to visitors every day.

Arranged beautifully along a spacious hallway around the large courtyard are the ancient marbles or Musée Lapidaire, considered some of the finest in Europe. The grave inscriptions create a fascinating collection of epitaphs, many of which are quite tender and moving. In fact, as one reads these expressions of familial love from the ancient pagans starting from the Augustan period, it’s hard not to think that the Romans of that time were already “searching for” Christianity. On the left side of the courtyard upon entering, there’s the staircase that leads up to the Archaeological Museum and the Picture Gallery, both located on the first floor. On the second floor, you’ll find the collection of paintings by the “peintres lyonnais.”

Lyons: Archaeological Museum.

The Musée Archéologique is well organized and clearly labeled. The one item we would point out, as it tends to be overlooked, is the bronze table, CE 48, located in the second room on the left, which has inscribed sections of Claudius's speech before he became emperor, appealing to the senate to grant his hometown of Lyons the status of a Roman colony. The lettering is beautifully carved and easy to read. This table was found in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. Germanicus and Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla were also born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose served as prefect of Lyons for a time. In the same room, there's a decree from the Egyptian priests in hieroglyphics. There’s a great collection of seals, coins, enamels, armor, carved works, and bronzes, along with necklaces, bracelets, rings, and coins from a treasure buried during the Roman era on the Fourvière heights, discovered in 1811. The numismatic collection, which includes 30,000 pieces, features coins minted in Lyons from 43 BCE to 1857. Next to it and on the same floor is the Picture Gallery, housed in six small rooms. The first three rooms display Flemish and Dutch works, the next two feature Italian and Spanish art, and the sixth room showcases the French school. All are well labeled. Among the Flemish paintings are works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich, Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. The Italian and Spanish collections include pieces by Canaletto, Sasso Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo, Ribera, Zurbaran, and others. On the floor of the fourth room, there is a remarkably intact mosaic pavement, measuring 5½ yards by 3, depicting chariot races in the Circus. It was discovered near the church of Ainay.

Lyons: Chenavard Gallery.

In the southeast corner, an elegant staircase leads up to the Galerie Chenavard on the first floor, which features large cartoons drawn by him that illustrate the scenes surrounding the introduction of Christianity to France. They were meant for the Pantheon of Paris, but due to the rise of rationalism, they were never sent. On the floors, there are three stunning mosaic pavements from Lyons. In the room above, you'll find the best paintings—J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel, P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, 1555-1619; P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David, 1748-1825; Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; Jordaens, Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo, 1618-1682; J. Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; and an Ascension of Christ, which is considered the highlight of the collection. 37 This painting, originally located in the church of San Pietro at Perugia, was presented by Pope Pio VII “in testament to his affection and grateful memory for the city of Lyon.” The lower part of the painting is by far the best; the figures in the air appear too heavy, and the posture of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera, 1584-1656; H. Rigaud, 1552-1745*; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael, A. del Sarto, 1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565; Sueur, 1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.

* Text shown as printed. Hyacinthe Rigaud, 1659-1743.

The Palais des Arts also houses the Natural History Museum, the Mineralogical Collection, which showcases the unique rocks and fossils from every region of France, as well as copper ores from the Chessy mine near Arbrèsle. Additionally, there’s a library with 40,000 engravings and drawings, along with 650 volumes mainly focused on the arts and sciences. There are also 6 municipal libraries that are open every evening from 7 to 10, plus the Bibliothèque de la Ville.

Lyons: Terreaux Square. City Hall.

On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1665 by Maupin for £320,000. The facade, flanked by domed square pavilions, is 160 ft wide, while the building itself is 1150 ft long. The back part, facing the theatre, is the Préfecture. From the center rises the clock tower, which is 157 ft high. Above the entrance on the facade is a bold relief equestrian statue of Henri IV. Inside the vestibule, on the right and left, are massive bronze sculptures by the brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They were originally located under the statue of Louis XIV in the Place Bellecour.

In 1642, Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed on Richelieu's orders in the Place des Terreaux. In 1794, the revolutionary tribunal, meeting at the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it became flooded with blood, prompting the need to send the executioners to Brotteaux, near the current railway station, to continue this mass killing of French people by their fellow countrymen.

Lyons: Condition of Silks. Library. Exchange. Silk Museum.

Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, at house No. 7, is the establishment of the Condition des Soies, where the bales of silk brought to Lyons are sent to dry. They are placed on an iron grating and exposed to a temperature of 64° to 72° Fahrenheit for twenty-four hours, and they are weighed before and after this process. The same procedure is applied to the wool. The sample drying room is on the first floor, to the left. Anyone can visit it. A bit further up are St. Polycarpe, built in 1760, and St. Bruno, built in 1688. At the other end of the St. Clair bridge is the English church.

In the Rue de la République is the Bourse, an elaborately decorated building that opened in 1860. On the south end is St. Bonaventure, constructed in the 14th century and recently renovated. On the north end is the Lycée with the public library, featuring the large terrestrial globe made in Lyons in 1701, showing the major African lakes, which have been rediscovered this century. There are 160,000 books and 2,500 manuscripts—about 600 of the printed works are incunabula, and 25 of the manuscripts are from the Carolingian period.

In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the Art and Manufacture of silk. It's open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays from 11 AM to 4 PM. The large hall features high glass cases showcasing specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, organized by centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th century, which is the richest and most beautiful by far, is represented in two cases, covering the first and last halves of the century. This collection is exquisite and highly artistic, displaying miniature portraits, stunning embroidery, and lovely designs in beautiful colors, all woven on a loom. At the entrance to the hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, depicted sitting, woven in white and black silk, similar to those at St. Etienne. There's also the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms from the era of Louis XI. The models are so precise that each one contains part of a web that was woven on it. Among them is the model of the famous loom created by Jacquard in 1804, which enabled a single worker to produce intricate fabrics as easily as the simplest web, just by changing the “cartoons” to create the most different textures on the same loom. Nearby is the first sewing machine. The inventor was B. Thimonier from Lyons in 1829, which inspired the improved copies we use today.

The cases around the innermost room are dedicated to the natural history of silk—showing every type of the silk moth, Bombyx mori, along with related species; cocoons of all kinds and conditions; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their life cycle; and bundles of raw silk from all over the world where it's produced. Next to it is a room filled with drawings, many created by the great masters.

Previously, Lyons only produced high-quality silks, but since the demand for these has been declining for several years, the manufacturers have had to shift their focus to cheaper fabrics in order to compete with their rivals from Créfeld. This change is partly due to the fast and drastic shifts in fashion, 39 which means that a silk dress is now only stylish for a few months, whereas in the past, with some minor alterations, it could be worn for years.

In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large covered markets, where you can see many of the fish from the Rhône alive in tanks and buy great Mont d'Or cheese. It makes for excellent travel snacks. (See page 42.)

Lyons: City Hospital and Homeless Shelter.

Further down the street, facing the Rhône on one side and the entrance on the Rue de l’Hôpital on the other, is the Hôtel Dieu, or general hospital, which has 1500 beds and was founded in the 6th century by Childebert and his queen Ultrogotha. The current building was mainly designed by Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the beds, around 1300 are free, while the rest cost between 1¼ fr. and 12 frs. per day. The rooms are spacious and well-ventilated. The main female wards are arranged in a cross shape, with an altar in the center under the small dome, so that all the patients can see it from their beds. Extending from the large dome is the main ward for men, which has 100 beds, along with a smaller ward on the other side. Nuns care for the sick. The hospital also has a facility on the heights of the Croix-Rousse, near the end of the rope railway, and another at Oullins for terminal patients.

In the first court to the left of the main court, Dr. Young buried Mrs. Temple, the Narcissa of his Night Thoughts, who passed away in 1730 in Montpellier but was denied burial there. Back then, what is now a developed court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago, it was a garden; now it’s filled with buildings. All evidence of the grave is gone.

Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, built in the 18th century, beautifully decorated. In a chapel on the left is the large gilded shrine, divided into 5 levels, dedicated to Saint Valentine.

Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, established in 1531 during a major famine. It provides care for poor people of both genders who are 70 or older, sick children under 15, and young women who are about to give birth. The church was built in 1617.

Lyons: St. Martin d'Ainay.

North of the hospice or workhouse, near the Ainay bridge over the Saône, is the church of St. Martin d’Ainay, which, along with the monastery, was founded by St. Badulph during Constantine's reign, on the site of a temple built by the sixty nations of Gaul in honor of Caesar Augustus. The original church was destroyed by the Saracens in the 8th century, rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in 1106 by Pope Pascal II. Since then, it has undergone frequent repairs and alterations. The architectural style is what’s called modern Greek, which was introduced into France during Charlemagne's time. The dome of the chancel rests on circular pendentive arches that come from four granite columns, which originally stood in the temple of Augustus. They started out as two but were cut into four. The frescoes in the apsidal chapels were created by H. Flandrin, who was from Lyons. To the right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint Blandina, where a short staircase leads down to the crypt and the dungeons, one on each side, where Pothinus, the first bishop of Lyons, and Blandina, a converted slave, were held before being tortured and executed in CE 177 during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, who was a fierce enemy of Christianity. The crypt is about 12 feet square, and both the crypt and the dungeons are about 10 feet deeper, but due to the river overflowing, the floors have been filled up to their current level.

Lyons: Tête-d’Or Park.

The Parc de la Tête-d’Or, or park of Lyons, is located at the northeast end of the city, between the Brotteaux train station and the left bank of the Rhône River. It covers 282 acres and features a variety of walking paths, a large and impressive botanical garden with greenhouses, a lake with islands where water birds live, and a dairy farm that sends its products into town for sale every morning. Next to the park are the shooting ranges and the racetrack. On the Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, which has a collection of items from the far east to help study the history, religions, and customs of that region. The institution also publishes essays and translations.

By the west side of the Brotteaux train station are the big barracks of Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.

Lyons has 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers producing silk. Like in St. Etienne, most of the work is done at home by master weavers. Each master usually owns two to eight looms, along with the necessary equipment. They and as many family members as can work operate these looms, often with help from one or more compagnons, or journeymen, who mainly live in the suburbs of La Croix Rousse to the north of the city and Fourvières on the Saône River. Silk merchants provide the silk and patterns to the loom owners, who are responsible for creating the finished product. The average annual value of the silk goods produced is estimated at £15,000,000.

The Dyeing of Silk—Origin of Lyons.

Dyeing silk is also a significant part of manufacturing. Many experiments were conducted to perfect this craft, especially to find a black dye that would stay true to its color. Eventually, a common dyer from Lyons invented this dye, for which he received a pension and was honored with a membership in the Legion of Honour. Before this, the black dye used would fade to a brown after just a few days and would come off the fabric when pressed by hand. Another improvement included creating silk that maintained a permanent white color. The eggs of the silkworm that produced this silk were imported from China, but it wasn't successful at first. The silkworm was later bought from a merchant in Alais and spread across the southern regions of the country, where many people now run silkworm hatcheries. The production of white silk is now substantial and crucial for making gauzes, crapes, and tulles. In Lyons, there are also large chemical plants, breweries, foundries, potteries, engineering firms, printing companies, and hat factories that represent the secondary industries. A significant trade is conducted in chestnuts from the neighboring regions, known as marrons de Lyon.

The earliest Gallic occupants of the area where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet were the Segusians. In 590 BCE, some Greek refugees from the banks of the Hérault, after getting permission from the locals to settle on the Croix Rousse, named their new town Lugdunum, a Gallic name. Then in 43 BCE, Munatius Plancus brought a Roman colony to Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement quickly became important and was made by Agrippa the starting point of four major roads. Augustus, in addition to building aqueducts, temples, and a theater, established a senate there and made it the site of an annual assembly for representatives from the sixty cities of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors, the colony of Forum Vetus and the municipium of Lugdunum were merged, gaining the jus senatus. The town, which was burned by Nero in 59 A.D., was rebuilt by him in a much more impressive style and enhanced by Trajan, Adrian, and Antoninus.

Mont-d’Or.

One of the most interesting and also easiest trips from Lyon is to Mont Ceindre, 4 miles away. Catch the bus from Rue de la Platière to the village of St. Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or, which is 3¼ miles away and takes about 1½ hours along a gradually rising road. The fare is ½ franc. The bus station at St. Cyr, along with the inn and café, is located on a wide terrace with an expansive view. The village has a population of 2000, and it’s poor and dirty, built on the hillside. To reach Mont Ceindre, walk from the bus station up to the new church, then follow the telegraph poles and turn right. You can easily ascend and descend in 80 minutes, just in time to return to Lyon on the next coach. At the top of Mont Ceindre, there are some houses, an old hermitage, and a chapel topped with a statue of Mary. The view is stunning, stretching across the Rhône and Saône valleys, the towns of Bugey and Beaujolais, and the mountains of Forez, Dauphiné, and the Alps. Mont Ceindre stands 1532 ft. above sea level; Mont Verdun is 2020 ft., and Mont Houx is 2008 ft., forming together Mont-d’Or, a mountain range covered with vineyards and meadows. Cheese. The wine here is light, but the cheese is one of the best and most renowned in France. The cheeses are soft, round, and flat, about 5 inches across and half an inch thick, resembling round pancakes. They are made from a mix of cow and goat’s milk and are thought to get their unique flavor from the vine leaves that the goats eat for a good part of the year. The cheeses from Mont Dore (also famous) are thicker and smaller, sold in small boxes. The coach traveling from Lyon to St. Cyr passes by Roche-Cardon, a favorite spot of J.J. Rousseau. Another easy trip is to Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats) heading up the Saône to the Vaise station. From there, switch to another penny boat going to St. Rambert, a rather shabby little town on the right bank, 1½ miles above Vaise. Across from it, connected by a bridge, is the town of Cuire. In the middle of the river lies Ile Barbe, which the bridge crosses. On the island, there are a few uninviting country houses and the tower of a 12th-century chapel (private property). The ride is the best part of the trip, not the island itself.

For Lyons to Nîmes, by rail 172 m. south along the west bank of the Rhône, see p. 81; Paris to Lyons by Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; Paris to Lyons by Tarare, p. 348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. Etienne, Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and map p. 27.

Vienne.

Paris Marseille 338 199 VIENNE, pop. 27,000. Hotels: Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this city, the capital of the first kingdom of Burgundy, there are remains of significant buildings that show the residents from the time of Cicero enjoyed the luxury and wealth that preceded the Augustan era. The most notable is the Maison Carrée, a rectangular temple of the Corinthian style, dedicated to Augustus and his wife Livia, standing 55 ft. tall, 88 ft. long, and 80 ft. wide, located just north of the cathedral on Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace facing the chain bridge is St. Maurice, a stunning Gothic cathedral started in the 12th century, measuring 315 ft. long, with a nave roof reaching 88 ft. high. It boasts beautiful stained glass and near the altar, the intricately carved mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who passed away in 1723. At the main entrance, there are two ancient sarcophagi. At the opposite end of the chain bridge stands the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe Valois. Up the Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, near a staircase leading down to the river, was the Tour de Mauconseil, where it's said Pontius Pilate, exiled to Vienne by Tiberius, ended his life by jumping into the Rhône. About ¼ m. down the Rhône from the railway station, along the Marseilles road, is the Pyramide de l’Aiguille, also known as Pilate's tomb. It stands 52 feet high, rising from four arches on a square base. Columns with cushioned capitals adorn the four corners, which can’t be older than the 4th century. Vienne is a bustling commercial town, with significant wool manufacturing. 3¼ m. S. by rail is Vaugris, pop. 250. On the other side of the Rhône is Ampuis (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a scattered village among vineyards, located less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château de Roussillon, Charles IX issued the decree in 1564 that the year would officially begin on January 1st.

St. Rambert-d'Albon. Tain.

Paris Marseille 356.5 180.5 ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON, connection to the line to Grenoble, 57½ miles East, via Rives, 35 miles, and Voiron, 42 miles East. There's a bridge connecting to Peyraud, 3¾ miles West, on the other side of the Rhône, where there's a train to Annonay (see page 81, and map pages 26 and 46).

5 miles south by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, population 4,000. Inn: Merle. At the meeting point of the Galaure and the Rhône. The town features the restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the Galaure valley, you can find the Roche Taillée pass, the ruins of a château belonging to the Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see map, page 46).

Paris Marseille 368 169 TAIN, pop. 3000. Inns: H. Europe; Midi. A nice town on the Rhône, directly across from Tournon (page 82), and at the base of the hill, where the vineyards grow the Hermitage wines. The red variety has a wonderful aroma and is easy to digest. The white is an exquisite wine that can be aged for a century, but the production is limited. Bus at the station for Romans, 13 miles on the train between Valence and Voiron (see __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__), population 13,000. Inns: Europe; Midi. Situated where the Isère River meets the Savasse, linked by a four-arch bridge to Bourg-du-Péage, population 5,000.

Emotional tone.

Paris Marseille 384 153 VALENCE, pop. 24,000. Hotels: Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first is the most expensive. Spacious Protestant Temple. Good Protestant schools. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. Bus to St. Péray, 2½ m. west. Coaches daily to Ardèche. Valence is a nice town on a rise above the Rhône, surrounded by wide boulevards built on the site of the old fortifications. The most impressive is the Place Championnet, located where the citadel was built, started by François. It offers a great view of the river and the hills beyond. In the distance, to the right, on a barren rock, is the castle of Crussol. In this Place is the statue “to General Championnet, who rose from the ranks of the people. Public tribute from his hometown.” Died at Antibes 1800.

To the left of the statue is the cathedral St. Apollinaire, built in 1095 and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower were redone in 1880. The rest of the exterior looks quite old. The buttresses are shallow and don’t reach the eaves. A delicate dentil cornice runs around the building, curving over the round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Inside, the church appears modern due to the restoration. Tall piers with attached Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts rise up to the start of the aisle arches and the roof vault, all made of stone. From the semicircular chancel, four semicircular chapels radiate, one of which is home to the organ. On the right or south side of the altar is the bust by Canova of Pope Pius VI, who died in Valence in 1799. His remains were later moved to Rome.

Outside, across from the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a burial chapel (22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) for the Mistral family, built in 1548. On either side, there’s a large round arch, topped by a surprisingly flat dome. Near the "Place des Clercs" is the Maison des Têtes, built in 1531, adorned with damaged statues and medallions under canopy work. The medallions, carvings, and the ceiling in the passage leading into the courtyard are in much better condition. The windows in the courtyard have square tops, but most have lost their transoms. Among the other buildings are an 18th-century Protestant Temple and an art gallery.

Vernoux. Buses from Valence.

Train to Grenoble, 62 miles N.E., and to Chambery, 40 miles further. Bus service daily to St. Péray (p. 82). Coach from St. Péray to Vernoux, 18 miles W. Vernoux 1920 ft. above sea level, pop. 3100. Inns: Nord; Verd. Protestant Temple. One of the nicest towns in Ardèche, located in the middle of well-tended mountains and valleys. A large percentage of the residents are Protestants.

Valence is one of the most convenient entry points into the Ardèche. Coaches from Valence go to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard (see page 83). The coaches from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape, where passengers transfer to two coaches that travel the length of St. Sauveur, passing through St. Fortunat and Ollières. At Ollières, H. du Pont, they connect with the coach coming from Privas. From St. Sauveur, one coach heads west towards Glaire to St. Pierreville and Marcols, while the other goes north to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hours from St. Sauveur, Beauchastel and La Voulte are 4 hours away, it takes 2½ hours from St. Sauveur to Pierreville, and 3½ hours to Le Cheilard (see also pages 93 and 94). There’s a coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21¼ miles west, passing through Champis, pop. 3380, at the base of a mountain that blocks the sun’s rays for part of the day.

(See __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__).

Ardèche shouldn't be visited until June and not later than September. In the villages and small towns in the rural areas, many of the best houses are inns or guesthouses, where you can get a bed and plenty of food like fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee, bread (often rye), and salted pork sausages. The national dish consists of very thinly sliced fried potatoes with butter. They also make a tasty soup with herbs mixed with potatoes. The many inns are necessary to accommodate guests during the fairs, with each hamlet hosting at least 2, while larger villages and towns have between 4 to 8, in addition to market days. One of the most charming sights in Ardèche is seeing people coming from all directions along the winding mountain roads to the village where the fair is taking place—many on foot herding small parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or cattle, or carrying baskets full of eggs, cheese, and butter, often with an old hen; others with carts full of potatoes; some riding comfortably in their carriages; and others on horseback, with women as well as men in the saddle.

Many of the inns, and even the owners, seem intimidating at first, but after a bit of friendly conversation, things change quickly for the better. In the higher areas, the crops include potatoes and hay. In the next zone, there are wheat, chestnut, walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, grown on terraces held up by low stone walls made of rough, uncut stones. Vineyards are found in the lowest zone, on the sunny side of the mountains. The cattle are quite large, mostly cream-colored and light brown, with sturdy bones and white horns typically tipped with black.

At the fairs, in addition to all sorts of country goods, girls and women sell their hair. The best strands go for no more than 8 shillings, while many only fetch around 2 shillings and 6 pence or 3 shillings. Once the deal is done, a woman cuts the hair off just like sheep are sheared, leaving just a bit in front. It all happens in two minutes, twisted into a bundle, and tossed into a sack. Instead of cash, they usually take their payment in fabric and ribbons. During the long winters, most women are occupied with lace-making.

Among the amazing sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont Mezenc, and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, located near the source of the Loire. The main station for the carriages is Le Cheilard (see page 83).

After Valence, the railway goes through some of the most beautiful areas of the Rhône valley. At Mornas, 44½ miles south of Valence and 23½ miles north of Avignon, the olive-growing region begins.

Livron. Crest.

Paris Marseille 395 142 LIVRON, pop. 4500, on the Drôme, at some distance from the station. There are restaurants at the station and inns in the town. On the opposite side of the Rhône, connected by a railway bridge, is La Voulte, 1¼ miles west (see p. 82). A road, partly by train and partly by bus, runs from Livron, 68 miles east, to Aspres along the route between Grenoble and Marseilles. Up to the Pass de Cabres, the road ascends through the beautiful and well-maintained valley of the Drôme, which has a significant Protestant community, with nearly every village featuring its own Protestant temple (see maps, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_1__, and __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_2__).

11 miles east of Livron by train is Crest, with a population of 6000. Hotels: Bonsans-Reboul, the best; opposite the France; and on the promenade, next to the river and the bridge, the Pont de la Drôme inn. The shuttles from both hotels are ready for passengers. Crest is located partly on the Drôme and partly on the steep slopes of a high hill. At the base, in the market square, you'll find the parish church and the library. Directly up from the bridge on R. des Cordeliers, a flight of 116 steps leads to the entrance of the humble church of N. D. de la Garde, which is connected to the “Asile” for young children. A bit higher are the hospital and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the grounds, which feature a large structure, partly Roman and partly the remnants of a castle that was added in the 13th century. The tallest side rises 170 feet above the ground, while the other three sides are 148 feet, accessible by 260 steps. Although it’s quite high, the view is restricted by the tall side, which is off-limits to visitors. The concierge resides below in the town, near the hotel. The best route up the hill is by the first narrow street to the left of the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière, which leads to a stone marked “limite de l’Octroi,” from where you can follow the path to the right up to the Calvary, where there’s a fantastic view of the Drôme valley.

Coaches run daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22½ miles southwest (see Index); also to Beaufort, 12 miles northeast, along the Geroanne. Blind trout are occasionally thrown up from the abundant source of the Geroanne. Three miles from Beaufort is the scenic gorge of Ombléze. Coaches also go to Bourdeaux, 16 miles south, passing through Saou, 9 miles south from Crest (see map, p. 56). Saou. Saou, pronounced Sou, population 1200, is a poor, dirty village on the Vebre. Inn: H. Lattard. Mixed in with and built into the surrounding run-down houses are the remains of the abbey church and 47 buildings of Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th century. The best parts are the wall and square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are located within the courtyard of a stable. Nearby is a small parish church from the 12th and 13th centuries. Saou is mainly visited for the stunning beauty of the narrow valley of the Vebre, nestled between two ranges of wooded mountains, rising from 4000 to 5000 feet above sea level, with sand and limestone layers stacked into vertical cliffs and shaped into bizarre, fantastic forms. The valley stretches 8 miles long and varies from a few yards to 2 meters wide. At the west end, on the right or north side of the stream, is Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above sea level, and across from it, on the other side, is Roc, an isolated cliff resembling the shaft of a column. Mt. Colombe also features a columnar cliff, and at its base is a house called the Donjon de Lastic from the 14th century, and a little further down is a square house with two round turrets called the Château d’Eurre. The most beautiful parts of the valley are the entrance and the east end, or its conclusion, where Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to 5324 feet above sea level, and on which lies the source of the Vebre. At the base of Mt. Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley narrows so much that there is barely enough space for the stream to pass through. Another 2¼ miles upstream is the villa of Tibur, and just beyond that is the end of the valley.

Bordeaux. Dieulefit.

Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 miles south. Bourdeaux, population 1800. Inns: Blanc; Petit; Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 miles north from Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town, made up of rundown houses and poorly paved steep streets, going up the hill, topped with the ruins of a large castle built in the 8th century. Farming and raising silkworms are the main industries. Although Bourdeaux is only 8 miles from Dieulefit, the courier takes 2 hours to make the trip because a high mountain ridge, the Dieu-Grace, lies between the two locations.

Dieulefit, population 5000. Inns: H. du Levant; Protestant Temple. Located on the Jabron River at the base of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ miles east of Montelimart, where several coaches operate daily between the two towns. The town has silk, cotton, and cloth mills, and in the surrounding area, there are potteries producing basic kitchenware. The main towns along the route to Montelimart include Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ miles away; La Begude, 7½ miles away; under Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, which are positioned on hills at a considerable distance from the road (see map, page 56).

Die.

(Maps, pp. 46 and 56).

Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east of Die.—The road up to Pass de Cabres follows the Drôme River. The first town along the way is Saillans, 9½ miles east of Crest, population 1800. Inns: Lambert; Latour. In a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ miles further is Pontaix, located similarly. 23 miles east of Crest, and 34 miles west of Aspres, is Die, population 4000, the main town in the Drôme valley, where it meets the Mérosse. Inns: St. Dominique; Alpes—the coach stops between these; Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a light white wine consumed during its first year; 48 in the second year, it tends to lose quality. Coach to Châtillon, 12 miles southeast. Die, on the Drôme, is situated in a small plain surrounded by mountains, the most notable being Mont Glandaz, 6648 feet above sea level, flanked by impressive cliffs. At the top is a rolling plateau, covered with small stones and grass; the ascent takes about 5 hours. At the base of the mountain is the charming but not uncomfortable resort of Sallières-les-Bains; daily stay, including baths, costs 9 francs. The treatment is called “Sudations résineuses.” The bath resembles a large oven where, after being heated with resinous fir-wood, patients sit like in a Turkish bath. Open from June 15 to September 15. The landlord also owns a large portion of Mt. Glandaz, from which he sources his fir-wood. On the hill across from the Drôme is a similar establishment called Martouret, with a pension of 12 francs. The path to it diverges from the main road opposite the hill, which has the chapel of Notre Dame, offering a great view of the valley. At the entrance to Die from Crest, one of the old gateways leads off to the left, which goes around the ruins of the castle, among vines and mulberry trees. At the other end of the town, near the viaduct, there’s a much better gateway or Roman triumphal arch facing the “Place” St. Marcel. The parish church has been rebuilt, except for the narthex.

Luc. Aspres.

From Die, the journey to Aspres continues by another coach, which changes horses at LUC en Diois, pop. 940. Inn: Du Levant; Église Protestante, 10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. It’s a small town among vineyards and walnut trees, by the Drôme River, at the foot of tall mountains. Nearly a mile upstream, the narrow gorge nearly closes in with huge, oddly-shaped chunks of rock that have fallen from the nearby cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of Beaurières (Inn, where the coach changes horses). The ascent begins on a beautiful, well-maintained road to the Col de Cabres, 15 m. S. from Luc, and reaching 4,923 ft. high. At the pass, 2 m. from Beaurières, is La Baume, home to the cave of Baumette and a waterfall that drops 195 ft. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre d’Argenson, which features a sparkling, slightly acidic mineral spring that’s pleasant to drink and refreshing for the body, mixing nicely with the thin wine of Aspres, which is best at 2 years old. Aspres, pop. 800, is located on the railway, 126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach lets passengers off either at the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand. The church has been rebuilt, except for the entrance, which has a unique depiction of the Trinity on the tympanum.

Montélimart.

Paris Marseille 412 125 MONTÉLIMART, pop. 12,000, located at the point where the Roubion and Jabron rivers meet the Rhône. Hotels: near the station, the France; in town, the Poste; the Princes. The coach office for Le Teil is on the west side of the Rhône; for Grignan, p. 49; Dieulefit, p. 47; Bourdeaux, p. 47; and Nyons, p. 50; is near the Poste and Princes hotels. Up the Grande Rue is the main church. Directly across from it is the Place d’Armes, which has the Post Office, the Palais de Justice, and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the first flight of steps in the Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long and 2 feet wide, engraved with a Latin charter of the town from 1198. At the end of the street, the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the Temple Protestant. Montelimart is known for its white almond cake, “Nougat,” with the finest available in the Grande Rue shops. On a hill on the far side of town from the station are the ancient citadel and the tour de Narbonne from the 11th century. Montelimart, originally a city of the Seglauni, became a Roman settlement called Montilium, which later changed to Monteil-d’Adhemar by a powerful family that acquired it during Charlemagne's time. This family also owned Rochemaure on the opposite side of the Rhône (see page 92, and map page 56).

Omnibuses to the sparkling mineral spring of Bondonneau, 2.5 miles southeast. There are two coaches each day to Grignan, 15 miles southeast of Montelimart; one route goes through Alan and Reauville, while the other takes a longer path via Donzère, which is 4.5 miles extra. (See __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__.)

According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, halfway between Montelimart and Grignan, “there was, until 1802, the first white mulberry tree planted in France. It was brought from Naples by Guy Pope de St. Auban, the lord of Alan, one of the soldiers who accompanied Charles VIII on his Italian campaign in 1494.” The mulberry tree is found in a much larger area in the south of France than the olive (see map, page 56).

Grignan. Marquise de Sévigné.

Grignan, pop. 1900; Inn: Sévigné is built on the slopes of a hill where the gardens and a half-ruined, half-inhabited castle, where Mme. Sévigné passed away, are located 100 ft. above the “Place.” The former Salle du Roi has been turned into a picture gallery, featuring over 300 paintings, among which the most notable are the portraits of Madame and her daughter by Mignard. About halfway up the hill stands the church, which began construction in the 12th century. In front of the altar A white marble slab, measuring 2½ ft. long by 1½ ft. wide, has the following inscription: “Cy Git Marie de Rabutin Chantal, Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above the well in the “Place” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew curls. About ½ m. from the town is a favorite walking spot of hers, an overhanging ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de Roche-Courbière. To get there, descend from the inn, then take the first side road on the right, by a row of poplars to a short staircase. A coach runs from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m. S.E. via Valréas and Taulignan. Valréas (pronounce the “s”), 8¼ m. from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; Inn: H. du Nord is partly surrounded by its old walls, decorated with square towers and pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W. 50 from Nyons via Valréas and 11¼ m. via Rousset, Inn: H. du Commerce, pop. 1200, is also partially surrounded by its old walls.

Paris Marseille 420 117 DONZERE. H. du Commerce. A Romanesque church with a beautiful spire. Four and a half miles south is Pierrelatte station, which is the end of the unfinished railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan. Bus from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, ticket price 6 sous, travel time 45 minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, has an interesting 12th-century cathedral that has been restored. Many Roman artifacts have been found in the area.

Cruise.

Paris Marseille 432 105 LA CROISIERE. There are two small inns at the station. A bus is waiting for passengers going to Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l’Europe, 3½ miles west across the Rhône, along a tree-lined avenue. The fare is 40 cents. The bridge is 2756 feet long, has 20 arches, and was started in 1265 and finished in 1309. Until 1865, it had 21 arches, but the two at the western end were torn down and replaced with one large iron arch to let steamboats pass through more easily. (For __A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__, see page 98).

Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the valleys of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. Inn: Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufacturers of fire-bricks and clay tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. 2200. Coach here to Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; Inn: Vigne. Horses are changed here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice, pop. 1000; Inn: Lion d’Or. Near the village of Vinsobres, a cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons and Vaison. At Nyons, the coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H. du Louvre; from here, the diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart (see map, page 56).

Nyons.

NYONS, on the Aigues, pop. 4000. Hotels: Louvre, in the square; Voyageurs, in a corner. The Protestant temple is next to the hospital. Nyons, surrounded by high mountains, is known for its mild springs, making it a great spot for those coming back from the Riviera. While oranges and palms don’t grow here, there are plenty of mulberry, almond, fig, peach, and pear trees. The oak forests are home to particularly fine truffles. Silk mills and the preservation of fruit and truffles are the main industries. The old town, called Les Forts, is built on a hilltop and partly surrounded by its ancient walls, which are adorned with square towers from the 14th century. The old castle, or central tower, has been turned into a chapel by the curate and features a statue of the “immaculately conceived.” The lower part of the town is known as Les Halles, with its dirty streets lined with thick, sturdy arches. The rest of the town, extending to the Aigues, is called the Bourg. The bridge, built in 1341, has a single arch and is much higher in the center than at the ends.

The Pontias Breeze.

Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, where there's a cave—or more like a hole—said (quite absurdly) to be the source of the night breeze called the Pontias. In winter, this wind is very 51 cold, blowing from 5 PM to 9 AM. In summer, it's pleasant, blowing from 9 P.M. to 7 AM. What’s unique about it is that its strength is consistent, never bursting into gusts. To reach the cave, start from the base of the church tower and go up Rue Pousterle, with the old town walls on your left. Beyond the last tower, a path branches off to the right; take that and climb to a small chapel at the top of the ridge, passing a pavilion about halfway there. Alternatively, you can continue from the tower to the section of the ridge with a gap, then take the path at the back of the ridge leading to the chapel. Those who went up this way will retrace their steps from the chapel for 116 yards, while those who took the other route will walk 116 yards past the chapel. About 30 yards to the left of the path, you’ll see a narrow ledge of rock above a small cavity, which is the entrance to the Pontias hole. It’s deep but not particularly wide. Among the nearby limestone layers, there are several crevices. The view of the Aigues valley from this hill is stunning. The climb takes about 35 minutes.

Nyons to Serres (see map, p. 56), 41 miles east through the valleys of the Aigues and Blème, flanked on both sides by high mountains. Time, 7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns along the route sit significantly above the road, and due to the steep banks, they aren’t always visible from it. The first village is Les Piles, located 3¾ m. from Nyons and 3½ m. from the “Des 30 Pas” gorge, one of the excursions from Nyons. A bit farther east is Curnier, perched on a hill on the south side of the river, which is crossed by a bridge here. Next is Sahune, also on a hill on the south side of the river. The gorge starts to narrow, and the mountains become steep, and after passing under Villeperdrix, the road crosses to the south side of the river and reaches the St. May station, where there’s an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high on the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is located on a high, steep rock point. After St. May, the coach crosses the river to the village of Rémusat, 17 m. east of Nyons at the point where the Oule meets the Aigues. The coach then returns to the south side of the river, making its last crossing at Verclause, 22 m. from Nyons, and continues to Rosans, which is another 3½ m. further or 15½ m. from Serres. From Rosans, the road begins to ascend the low Col of Ribeyret, then descends into Serres on the north side of the Blème, passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. Inns: Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. north from Marseilles and 77½ m. south from Grenoble (see p. 340).

Orange.

Paris Marseille 444 93 ORANGE, pop. 10,300. Inn: H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the Arausio of the Romans, is located along the gently flowing Meine. Near the hotel is the Triumphal Arch, believed to have been built in honor of Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and 52 Floras, CE 21. It faces east and west, is made of yellowish sandstone, 75 feet high, 64 feet wide, and 27½ feet deep, featuring 3 arches. The center arch has a span of 17 feet, while the other two arches each have a span of 10 feet. The soffits are decorated with six-sided sculpted panels. Next to each arch stands a grooved Corinthian column. Above the smaller arches are sculpted trophies in the form of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows, etc. Above the main arch, on either side, is a group depicting a battle.

At the other end of town are the cathedral and the Roman theater at the base of the hill, topped with a statue of Mary. The Cathedral of Notre Dame, dating back to the 12th century, is small and resembles the style of churches in the southwest of France, with the cathedral in Perpignan being the prime example. There are no transepts or triforia. Tall chapels sit between the buttresses, and above the arches are small clerestory windows. There's a plain and unattractive square tower at the east end. Next to it is the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, featuring a statue of “Raimbaud II., Comte d’Orange, vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem en MXCIX.” In the town's promenade, the Cours St. Martin, stands a statue of the Comte de Gasparin, a writer on agriculture and a native of Orange; he also passed away here in 1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand and impressive ruins of one of the most well-preserved Roman theaters. It is built in a semicircular shape, has a façade that is 118 feet high and 384 feet wide. The wall is 13 feet thick and made of large stone blocks. The semicircular wall has five tiers and could accommodate 6,500 spectators. The building has recently been restored and cleared of a lot of debris.

Prince of Orange and Orangemen.

In the 11th century, Orange became an independent countship, likely under Raimbaud I, whose successor, Raimbaud II, has just been mentioned. After the death of Philibert of Châlons, the last of the third line of princes, the inheritance passed to his sister’s son Count René (Renatus) of Nassau-Dillenburg. Since he died without children, he chose his cousin William I, stadtholder of the United Netherlands, as his successor. As a result, the title “Prince of Orange” was held by the stadtholders Maurice, Frederick-Henry, William I, William II, and William III. Following the Irish Revolution of 1688, the English Protestant faction became known as Orangemen, named after their leader, William III, Prince of Orange. Louis XIV took control of the principality of Orange in 1672, but lost it in the peace of Ryswick. After William III's death, there were two claimants—John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, named in William’s will, and Frederick I, King of Prussia, who claimed closer kinship and that he had been appointed by Frederick-Henry's will. Subsequently, Louis XIV declared the principality a forfeited fief of the French crown and granted it to the Prince of Conti. The Parliament of Paris ruled that this last prince should have the dominium utile; this decision was confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht (1713), which still granted the title and coat of arms to the King of Prussia, who is still referred to as Prince of Orange (Prinz von Oranien). However, John William Friso also took the title, and his successors, the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands, have all been known as princes of Orange-Nassau. A large number of silkworms are raised at Orange. Coach daily to Valréas 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison 17½ m. N.E. (Map p. 56.)

Vaison. St. Quentin.

Vaison, pop. 3400. Inn: H. du Commerce. 5 km N. of Malaucene, 17.5 km N. of Carpentras, 11.25 km S. of Nyons, 13.5 km W. of Le Buis, and 4 km S. of Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison is on the right. Both are connected by a Roman bridge with a single arch spanning 48 ft, featuring a more elongated curve on the left side than on the right. The old town, with its shabby streets and dilapidated houses, spreads across the slopes of a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI, Count of Toulouse, in 1195. The castle is a simple rectangular structure, 20 yards square, with a small square tower at one corner. Just below it is the parish church, which has round and early pointed arches and a square tower at the southeast end. The view from the terrace is stunning.

The oldest and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison and are very close to each other. Take the Villedieu road just outside of town, where a side road on the right branches off from the main road at a sharp angle. Follow this side road to two arches that mark the location of the Roman theater. The chapel visible to the northwest is St. Quenin, and a bit further on is the cathedral. The amphitheater, or “les arènes” as it’s called, is built in a similar style and location as the theater in Orange, but it's much less intact. Besides the two arches, there are still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone except for those on the lowest level. It has now turned into a vineyard and an orchard. Further along a narrow road is St. Quenin, where the east end is Roman and may date back to the 4th century, while the rest is from the 10th century. The east end, or apsidal termination, has the shape of an equilateral triangle, featuring an attached fluted Corinthian column at the apex and at each angle of the base. One of the pillars has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on each side of the triangle is clearly a later addition. Bishop Quenin died in 578.

Of the Cathedral, the best part is definitely the outside. Along the edge of the roof of the nave, there’s a decorative dentil molding and a frieze of medallions linked by a wavy line of foliage. The walls feature small, round-headed windows set on spiral colonnettes. 54 The frieze of the aisles is simpler. Inside, early pointed arches of large span rise from four massive piers made of clustered pilasters on each side of the nave, supporting a narrow-vaulted roof, also pointed. This section of the church dates back to the 12th or 13th century; however, the chancel, with its two Roman pillars and an arcade of blank arches on colonnettes, is much older. An elegant square tower rises above the small chapel on the northeast side. Next to the tower is a very beautiful cloister from the 11th century, reminiscent of the cloister at St. Michel in Brittany. It measures 22 yards square, surrounded by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes arranged in pairs 3½ ft. high. At the corners, there’s either a massive stone pier or the stone carved into 5 colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities that Vaison has preserved are located under this corridor. The most complete piece of sculpture is a skull. At the top of the hill opposite the castle, there’s a statue of the “Immaculée” on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman column. (Map p. 56.)

Sorgues. Carpentras.

Paris Marseille 455 82 SORGUES, population 4,000, located on the Sorgues River, which starts at Vaucluse. It connects with the line to Carpentras, 10½ miles to the east. Carpentras, population 10,500, sits on a high point surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. Hotels: Universe; Orient, both good, and located in the large “Place” opposite the Hôtel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. Inside the Hôtel-Dieu is a portrait of the Abbot Rancé by Rigaud, along with a beautiful staircase. In the center of the Place stands a bronze statue of the generous Malachie d’Inguimbert. From this “Place,” heading up the narrow street, the first public building you encounter is the church of St. Siffrein, which dates back to 1405. The square tower, topped with an octagonal dome, attached to the north side of the chancel, was originally part of an earlier church built during Charlemagne's reign. The stairway (89 steps) leading to the roof, which offers a beautiful view, starts on the south side of the chancel, outside. Among the paintings inside the church, the standout piece is a “Salutation” by the Flemish artist Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the pulpit, there’s a painting by Mignard showing Mary giving some of her milk to St. Bernard. At the front of the chancel, near the dome, is the chapel that houses the reliquaries. Among these are the skull and bones of St. Siffrein and the nail that pierced Jesus’ right hand on the Cross. In the chancel, there’s a 15th-century “Coronation” of Mary painted on wood, and behind the altar, another “Coronation” by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and Siffrein. Next to this is the Palais de Justice, built in 1640, featuring frescoes and a crucifix in the “salle des assises.” Inside the courtyard, to the right, is a Triumphal arch built by Diocletian between 284 and 305, standing 30 feet tall (originally taller), 25½ feet wide, 14½ feet deep, with a 10-foot span. On the north side, between two attached fluted columns, there’s a bold relief of a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On either side stands a prisoner, hands behind his back, loosely chained to the cross. From the cross hang swords, horns, and pouches. On the south side is a similar cross, but not in as good condition. The main beam looks more like a tree trunk. From the top hangs a warrior's garment.

The street that continues from the church leads to the Porte d’Orange, topped by a square tower that stands 120 feet high, although only three sides remain. This was built by Innocent VI, who also surrounded the town with ramparts that now form beautiful boulevards. From the boulevard in front of the gate, you can see to the left the canal aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance, between the two and beyond a smaller ridge, is Mont Ventoux, stretching from northwest to southeast with a slight bend. The aqueduct supplying water to Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon via 48 massive arches. The canal, which irrigates the surrounding area, extends from the Durance to the Ouvèze, covering a distance of 43 miles, at a cost of £90,000. In the main boulevard, directly across from the Eysseric canned fruit factory, is the building that houses the library and museum. The library holds a valuable collection of manuscripts detailed in a printed 4to volume, several rare incunables, and over 4,000 volumes, for which there isn’t enough space. Carpentras: Museum. In the “Musée,” there are a few good paintings and Roman statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, except for a small Apollo found in Carpentras. The highlight of the antiquities is an Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab from the 4th or 3rd century B.C., measuring 19¼ inches long by 13½ inches wide and 1 inch thick, divided into three sections by narrow borders. In the main section, a young woman stands with her hands raised before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table with offerings. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second section, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the four traditional funeral vases. In the third section, there's an Aramaic inscription in four lines, with the last two lines damaged. The first French opera was composed in Carpentras by Abbot Mailly in 1646. Truffles. Truffles, or tuberous mushrooms, come in black, dark gray, violet, or white varieties. The white ones, mainly found in northern Italy, smell like garlic. Around Carpentras and in the Vaucluse department, the truffles are black and grow 4 inches to 1 foot below the surface, at the ends of the fibrous roots of both common and evergreen oaks. The season for gathering them is from November to the end of March, after which the remaining truffles become soft and decay. They are at their best in January, when the skin is black, hard, and rough, and the inside is mottled black and white. In size and shape, the best resemble small round potatoes, with the largest weighing about half a pound, though few are that size. They are located using specially bred dogs and pigs; the sow is more skilled and remains effective for over 21 years. It expertly digs up the ground with its strong snout faster than any dog. Just before it grabs the truffle, the handler slides a stick between its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and gives the sow two 56 acorns as a reward. Without this incentive each time, the sow wouldn't continue searching. Until truffles ripen, they have no smell.

Ortolans.

The ortolans, which breed around the hills and woods of Carpentras, migrate in the fall. While flying, they are lured down to nets set up for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those captured are placed in dark rooms, where they are fattened up. After about a month, they become so plump they can barely fly, at which point they are killed and sold, except for a few that are kept to lure others next year. Their singing season is moved from spring to August by pulling out the large feathers from their tails and wings in April and keeping them in a dark room until August.

Carpentras is also known for its preserved fruits and "berlingots," a type of candy made from a syrupy blend of fruits, similar to barley sugar but cut into 1-inch square pieces. The top maker is Eysseric.

Carpentras is a great stop for sensitive travelers coming back from the Riviera—the hotels are cozy and the prices are reasonable—there's an excellent public library, nice walking paths, and it's close to many interesting places connected by spacious coaches.

Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons, 28½ miles north, via Vacqueyras, 6½ miles, and Vaison, 17½ miles. Also to Nyons, 26 miles, via Malaucene, 10 miles northeast, and Vaison, 15 miles by this route. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 miles northeast, passing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons, 19 miles northwest via Mollans. Courier from Vaison to Buisson, 7½ miles north on the Aigues. Coach to Sault, 28½ miles east.

Omnibus several times a day to St. Didier 4½ miles southeast. Daily coach to L’Ile 10½ miles south, which is handy for visiting the Vaucluse fountain. Coach operates on market days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ miles southeast, passing through Venasque 7¼ miles southeast. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.)

Bedoin. Mont Ventoux.

Coach daily to Bedoin 8¾ miles N.E., 900 ft. above sea level, population 1300. Inn: Hôtel de Mont Ventoux. You can ascend Mont Ventoux, which is 6274 ft., via a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about 2 miles from the village, and the top is 10 miles by an easy southern slope. It takes about 5 to 6 hours to climb. Mule rental is 10 francs. No guide is necessary. Before starting the ascent, go to the top of the hill next to the church and take a look at the landscape. The road going to the right, under the mulberry trees, is the one to follow. A little bit along it, at a well with a cistern, a narrow road branches off to the left and climbs the mountain via a steeper and shorter route. The mountain is a fantastic place for botanists. To watch the sunrise from the top, travelers usually start at 11 PM and wait for the sun to appear in the chapel of Ste. Croix at the summit. Mont Ventoux is the highest point of the Lure range, which is an offshoot of the Alps. Among the minerals, it has quartz in various forms and colors, found in nodules and layers. It also contains beautiful jasper and fossils like ammonites and belemnites. The kaolin clay, known as “terre de Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, a village 2¾ miles N.E. In various parts of this 57 area, there are layers of sandstone with fossils, sitting atop beds of sand. These layers appear in different locations throughout the department.

Resin Baths. Malaucène.

Four and a half miles from Carpentras by bus is the village of St. Didier, which has a nice spa in an old chateau. Rooms range from 1.5 francs to 3 francs. Staff rooms cost 1 franc. Meals, including meat, breakfast, and dinner with wine, are 5 francs. Coffee in the mornings is 0.5 francs. Meals for children and staff, which include meat, breakfast, and dinner, are 3 francs. Service is 0.5 francs. The first consultation costs 10 francs. Every other consultation in the study is free; however, in the guest room, it costs 1 franc each time. The baths are designed like Turkish baths, with the added feature of heated air infused with resin or turpentine (térébenthiné). This has a positive effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is 2.75 miles west of Venasque and 2 miles from Le Beaucet (map p. 56).

Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. N.E., via Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras crosses the northwestern edge of the Ventoux mountain range, passing by the village of Le Barroux on a hill topped with the ruins of a 15th-century castle. At the foot of Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from Buis, is Malaucene, 1000 ft. above sea level, with a population of 3000. Inn: Hôtel de Cours, located in a charming area that offers a great view from the calvary on a rise in the town. About half a mile from the inn is the Groseau spring, which flows from the base of a tall limestone cliff topped with the ruins of the 11th-century chapel of Groseaux. The stream that flows from the spring is quickly strong enough to power the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Anyone can visit the silk mills. In 1345, Petrarch climbed Mont Ventoux from Malaucene. The ascent from this location is more challenging, but more scenic than from Bedoin, and takes an additional 2 hours. On the mountain's side are the springs—Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein, 4774 ft.; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft.

The road from Malaucène to Buis winds through the beautiful Ouvèze valley. The most notable village along the way is Mollans, where you'll find a large cave nearby, beyond which lies a deep lake. Just before reaching Le Buis, you'll notice the bronze statue of Bishop Trophime on a hill, and beyond that, the St. Julien cliff. No public transport goes beyond Le Buis, even though the road is in good condition. The railway stretches between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing through St. Euphemie 7 miles east, St. Auban 10 miles east, Montguers 11¼ miles east, Lacombe 13¼ miles east, and Laborel 27 miles east, after which the road leads down to the railway through the Céans valley.

Le Buis.

LE BUIS, pop. 2000; Inns: Luxembourg; Commerce; is located in a valley on the Ouvèze, surrounded by mountains filled with olive, mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Some areas have schist and shingle, while others feature limestone in various shapes, either as towering cliffs or in numerous layers of different thicknesses and angles. To reach the statue of St. Trophime and the summit of St. Julien, cross the bridge and take the winding road to the valley on the right, continuing to the next 58 bridge. To get to the statue, cross the bridge and turn right; for the cliffs, take the path on the left at the back of St. Julien, just before you reach the bridge.

Paris Marseille 461 76 AVIGNON, population 39,000, surrounded by strong fortifications, decorated with 39 towers, and featuring 9 gates, is located on the Rhône, 2 miles above its confluence with the Durance, and 20 miles northeast of Nîmes by the railway that passes the Pont d’Avignon and Remoulins. Hotels: *Europe, near the bridge; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in the center of the town, close to Place Pie, the main marketplace. There is a Protestant Temple on R. Dorée, near the Préfecture. Taxi stands are available at the station and in Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, costing 2 francs per hour. From the station, a lovely avenue, the Cours de la République, leads up to Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, featuring the statue of “au brave Crillon,” a friend of Henri IV., “Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de l’infanterie française,” who died in Avignon in 1615. To the right is the road leading to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des Domes, and the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” these, along with the ramparts, represent the main attractions of Avignon. The concierge of the palace resides just inside the entrance. The fee for a group is 1 franc. Across from the gate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 as a mint. The churches are closed from 12 to 2. The museums are open to the public on Sundays from 12 to 4.

Avignon Palace.

The current Palace, started by Benedict XII in 1336 and completed by Gregory XI in 1370, is a massive, unattractive building, featuring plain walls that are 100 feet high and 14 feet thick, reinforced by long, awkward buttresses. Above the entrance, which has a low archway, are the arms of Clement VI; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, is the balcony from which the Popes blessed the people. Inside the gate is the Cour d’Honneur, a large square area between flat walls, punctuated by 3 to 4 stories of mismatched windows at different levels. From the court rises the Escalier d’Honneur, a vaulted staircase that once had marble steps, leading to the Salle Consistoriale d’Hiver, which has an elegantly vaulted ceiling. Before this hall was divided in two, it stood 52 feet high, 65½ feet wide, and 170 feet long. From here, we enter the Salle d’Armes, adorned with wall paintings by Simone Memmi of Siena. Rising higher on the grand staircase, we pass a small window for the Spies on the left and then proceed along a narrow corridor carved into the wall, leading to a series of large, bare halls: the Galerie de Conclave, the Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then into the Tour St. Jean, which houses the Chapelle du Saint-Office, 60 or the chapel of the Inquisition, featuring mural paintings. On the level below is the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. Jean, after passing through a large hall, we arrive at an octagonal room that gradually narrows toward the center to form a chimney-tower, known as the Tour Strapade. Some believe this was the torture room, but it is clearly more appropriate as a kitchen, which it likely was. Next to it is the Glacière, whose underground cellars, now filled in, were where the democrats of 1791 disposed of the bodies of 60 men and women they had killed. From here, we re-enter the Place d’Honneur via the Tour Trouillas, where Rienzi was imprisoned for five years, chained to the roof of his cell. During the Papal period, from 1305 to 1377, and until 1793, half of Avignon was occupied by ecclesiastical buildings, which rang 300 bells daily and hosted a continuous stream of religious processions.

Avignon: Rocher des Doms Cathedral.

From the palace, the road goes up to the highest point in town, the Rocher des Doms; offering a stunning view and designed as a public garden, featuring a statue of Jean Althen in the center, who introduced the cultivation of “garance,” the Rubia tinctoria, in 1766, which has since been replaced for red dyeing. From this terrace, stairs lead down to the Rhône near the Bridge Bénézet (see page 63). In the middle of the river is Ile de Barthelasse, and on the opposite side are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of Villeneuve, and above that, Fort St. André. On the promenade is the Cathedral Notre-Dame-des-Doms, rising 194 feet above the Rhône, accessible via a staircase known as the Pater, because it originally had as many steps as there are words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has gone through many changes and belongs to different periods. The portal and the lower part of the tower date back to the 10th century and are attributed to Fulcherius. The nave was built two centuries later, and the apse was added in 1671. The most notable part of the structure is the cupola, topped with an octagonal lantern and supported by pendentive arches. It shows remnants of frescoes painted in 1672. In the sanctuary, there’s the marble throne used by the Popes, the sacristy holds the Gothic mausoleum of Jean XXII., and in one of the side chapels is the tomb of Benoit XII. In the third chapel (on the right), there's a Madonna in white marble, created by Pradier. The sacristan usually sits in the small room next to the main entrance. The fee is ½ fr. for a tour of the church and the tomb.

Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the south end, a tram leaves every 15 minutes for the Pont d’Avignon station on the other side of the Rhône, costing 2 sous; and another tram goes to St. Lazare at the eastern end of the town near the cemetery, also 2 sous. An omnibus departs every hour from the corner of the theater for Villeneuve, stopping at the east end of the church. The fare for both ways is 4 sous.

Avignon: St. Agricol. Calvet Museum.

In the “Place,” the main building is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1862, where the Palais Colonna used to stand in the 14th century; the only part remaining is the beautiful belfry known as Jacquemard and his wife, from the two figures that strike the hours. Next to the Hôtel de Ville is the theater, built in 1847. Behind that is the church of St. Agricole, built in 1340, the patron saint of Avignon. To the right upon entrance is the tomb of painter Pierre Mignard, who died on April 4, 1725, at age 86. The third chapel on the same side features a wooden Virgin and Child by Coysevox. On the left side of the entrance is an ancient and elegant marble baptismal font. At the end of the short St. Agricol street, on Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built in 1730. At No. 65 Rue Calade is the Musée Calvet, which houses a valuable collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from 12 to 4, along with a library and reading room open every day except Sunday. Against the wall of the inner courtyard is the tomb of the museum's donor, Claud François Calvet, who died on July 25, 1810, at age 82. To the right is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to Laura de Sade, who died of smallpox in 1348 and was buried in the church of the Cordeliers (see p. 62). On the opposite side is the tomb of the military strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the outer courtyard, and in the ground-floor rooms and corridors, are Roman altars, monuments, milestones, torsos, amphorae, and 170 Latin inscriptions found nearby, chiefly from Orange and Vaison (p. 53). Among the relief sculptures is one depicting a Roman chariot pulled by two horses with shod hooves. There are 27 Greek inscriptions from the 3rd or 4th century, collected from Venice. The Middle Ages and Renaissance statuary and sculpture mostly came from the suppressed churches and convents. The most notable pieces include the mausoleums of Pope Urbain V, Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and Marshal Palice. Behind railings are sculptures of Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, and a bather by Esparcieux, all crafted in fine white marble. Upstairs, there’s a valuable collection of Roman glass and bronzes, along with 20,000 coins and medals, including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes during their time in Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition while they were here. The collection features nearly 500 paintings and sketches, including original works by Horace Vernet. Most of the paintings are labeled with the artists’ names. In the grand hall, there are works by Albano, Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, *Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati, F. Floris, Gericault, Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa, Teuiers jun., Veronese, Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room are paintings by Claude-Joseph, Horace, and Carle Vernet, along with a few by Paul Huet. The marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen. At the center of an inner room containing medals and engravings is the famous ivory crucifixion, 27 inches long, carved in one piece except for the arms, a masterpiece by sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said that Canova admired this delicate work in awe. Avignon: Musée Requien. Continuing down Rue Calade to the other side of Rue Petrarque or de la République, the Museum of Natural History is located in the 15th-century church of St. Martial. Most of the specimens were donated by M. Requien, who died in 1851, with many of them being the most interesting from the local area, such as the flamingo and beaver from the Rhône, as well as fossils from Aix. Further down the eastern extension of Rue Calade, at No. 62 Rue des Lices, is the Collège Saint Joseph, which contains what remains (the belfry and part of the north aisle) of the church of the Cordeliers, where Laura was buried. The aisle has been repaired and is now used as a chapel. Visitors are welcome, and it’s located to the left of the entrance. There are no traces left of the tomb, as it was destroyed along with the church by an angry mob in 1791. On the eastern side of Rue Petrarque, by the narrow Rue Prévot, is the church of St. Dedier, built in 1355, which features, in the first chapel to the right of the entrance, a marble relief of Christ bearing his cross, created by Francesco in 1481 at the request of King René. Opposite, above the second arch, 36 feet high, is a stone pulpit with a sculpted pendant. The grave of St. Bénézet lies beneath a plain slab in the center of the nave, in front of the high altar. Near St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, built in the 17th century; and to the east of Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre (plan 9), built in 1520, featuring an elaborately sculpted door and pulpit. The artwork around the high altar is by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and Simon de Châlons. From the southeast corner of Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, Rue des Marchands and its continuation through Rue Saunerie and Carréterie lead to Porte St. Lazare, with the town hospital (plan 7) on the right, which has a frontage of 192 yards and was built last century on the site of the hospital of St. Martha, which was founded in 1354. Just outside the town walls to the right, a broad road leads to the left, to the Cemetery. The Protestant section is on the right side of the entrance. Avignon: J. S. Mill. In a corner at the end of a short avenue lined with pine trees stands the white marble monument to John Stuart Mill, born May 20, 1806, died May 7, 1873. Buried in the same grave is Harriet Mill, his beloved wife, who passed away at the Hôtel de l’Europe in Avignon on November 3, 1858. A touching epitaph recounting her virtues covers the entire surface of the top slab. From Porte St. Lazare, you can walk along the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in 1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint, and architect, Bénézet, who had previously constructed one over the Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood for 100 years, was 2,952 feet long and 13 feet wide, supported by 19 arches, four of which still remain. On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, which housed the relics of St. Bénézet until they were relocated to the church of St. Dedier.

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

Every 15 minutes, a tram crosses the bridge to the Pont d’Avignon station, while every hour an omnibus goes to Villeneuve-les-Avignon, population 3100, 2½ miles from the “Place,” or 1¼ miles from the Pont station. Near the 14th-century parish church is the Hospital, which contains, in the chapel to the left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI, set under a tall intricately sculpted canopy that rises in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs is the picture gallery, located in two rooms. The most notable painting is from the 15th or 16th century, done on wood, and depicts two scenes: Purgatory and Judgment Day, seemingly created by two different artists. Although the design is rigid, it is impressive, and all the heads, even the smallest ones, are meticulously executed. But the highlight is an enchanting and captivating portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges dressed as a nun. She was born in Avignon in 1636, and at just 13, she married the Marquis de Castellane, with whom she attended the court of Louis XIV, where she was known as La Belle Provençale. After her husband's death, she married the Marquis de Ganges and returned to Avignon, where her troubles began due to the actions of her two brothers-in-law, the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose illicit desires she firmly resisted. Eventually, the enraged abbot forced her to drink poison, and she jumped out of the window; while lying on the ground in her death throes, the chevalier stabbed her seven times with his sword. These two monsters were sentenced by the parliament to be 64 broken alive on the wheel. Other paintings in the collection by Mignard include: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno. Fee is 1 franc, given to the hospital. The parish church, built in the 14th century by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, has nothing remarkable. Nearby are the ruins of the Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on a hill, Fort André, which is now occupied as a walled village. The omnibus to Avignon departs every hour, on the hour, from the apsidal end of the parish church of Villeneuve.

Avignon is really exposed to various winds, especially the Mistral, but maybe that's a good thing because, as the saying goes, "Avenio ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa," since the smells from the drains in some streets can be quite unpleasant.

Till July 26, 1793, Avignon was part of the Papal See until it was taken over by the Republican army led by General Cartaux. His victory was thanks to the talent of his artillery captain, the young commander Napoleon, who then stayed in this town for almost a month to recover his health, at No. 65 Rue Calade, across from the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.”

Avignon to Nîmes.

Avignon is 1½ hours or 15½ miles northeast of Nîmes by train, starting from the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. If you want to visit the Pont-du-Gard along the way, you should buy your tickets for the Pont-du-Gard station and change trains at Remoulins. If you have luggage, it's better to buy tickets only to Remoulins; upon arrival, you can quickly get other tickets to the Pont-du-Gard, leaving your luggage behind. You'll generally save time by walking back from the Pont to Remoulins, which is about 3 miles by road but 5 miles by train. See Map, p. 56. For Nîmes, see p. 101, and for Pont-du-Gard, see p. 104. Check the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before you start.

L'Isle. Vaucluse Spring.

From Avignon, the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 miles east, near the village of Isle, on the route to Cavaillon. L’Isle, population 7,000, is a village on the Sorgues, featuring a beautiful church that was rebuilt in the 17th century. It has an impressive reredos above the high altar and several notable paintings. The Tour d’Argent dates back to the 11th century. At the station, the buses from the Isle hotels, Petrarque et Laure and St. Martin, wait for passengers and take them to Vaucluse and back for 4 francs each. From the village of Vaucluse, population 600, take the road to the fountain along the right bank of the stream, but to reach the house and garden of Petrarch, take the left side and cross the bridge. On the left side, near the cloth mill, is a small house built on the site of Petrarch’s home, which it replicates. In front of it is a remnant of what was once Petrarch’s garden. Across the Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is a small hotel in Vaucluse, the Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a towering cliff 1,148 feet high is the source of the Sorgue river, the calm Fontaine de Vaucluse about 30 yards in diameter—“a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still, that where it laps the pebbles you can hardly tell where air begins and water ends.” However, during floods, the cavern can no longer contain the excess water, causing it to rush over in a cascade into the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the cliff topped by the ruins of the castle where his friend Cardinal Philippe de Cabasole lived. Petrarch himself describes the site: “On one side, my garden is bordered by a deep river; on another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day heat, which never fails to provide me its friendly shade, even at mid-day; yet, the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In the distance, a forbidding wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. Figs, grapes, walnuts, almonds—these are my delights. My table is also enhanced by the fish that abound in my river; and one of my greatest pleasures is watching fishermen draw their nets, and doing it myself. Everything around me has changed. I used to dress with care; now you’d think I was a laborer or a shepherd. My house resembles that of Fabius or Cato. I only have a valet and a dog. My servant’s house is adjacent to mine. I call him when I need him, and when I don’t, he goes back home.”

Avignon: Petrarch.

On April 6, 1327, Francesco Petrarca saw Laura, the daughter of Audibert de Noves, in a church in Avignon, and he developed a romantic but impossible love for her. Constantly tormented by the image of beautiful Laura, he traveled through southern France, Paris, and the Netherlands, and after eight months in exile, he returned to isolate himself in Vaucluse.

Vehicles are also available for rent in Avignon. The fare to Vaucluse and back is between 12 and 18 francs; the trip takes about 8 hours. The same price applies for a trip to the Pont du Gard.

20½ miles from Avignon by train is Cavaillon (p. 66), from where a branch line goes 20 miles east to Apt, another line 27 miles southeast to Pertuis on the Marseilles and Grenoble line, and another 22½ miles south to Miramas (p. 76), located between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, p. 66.)

Relevant.

40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, through Cavaillon, is Apt, population 7000, located on the Calavon river, in a sheltered area surrounded by mountains and limestone cliffs. Hotels: The *Louvre; des Alpes. The main industries here are agriculture, pottery, and making preserved fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as well as fruit intended for crystallization, is soaked for 2 to 8 months in a strong white sugar solution, in uncovered “terrines,” similar to small basins. Fruits with thick skins, like oranges, are pricked before being submerged. The best pottery (Bernard Croix) is found near the station, to the left when going down the hill. The clay, gray and reddish, is in thick layers close to the workshop, and is similar to that of Vallauris, near Cannes, known for its fire resistance, making it primarily used for kitchen pottery. M. Croix has also introduced artistic pottery and dinner and tea sets, which are very affordable. Opposite is L. A. Esbérard’s workshop, which focuses almost entirely on kitchen pottery.