Published by
Needlecraft Publishing Company
Augusta, Maine
1918

You can crochet the most amazing things you can think of if you have this

By Emma Monroe

This book is valued by both beginners and experts. It offers highly valuable information and instructions for anyone who crochets or wants to learn this beautiful craft. It features a carefully curated selection of designs; from the simplest to the most intricate, each step is explained and illustrated in such detail that achieving perfect results is guaranteed.

It describes the creation of the latest designs for the always popular use of crochet and provides instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders, Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.

The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations. It is printed on high-quality paper with a colored cover.

Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent to you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, in stamps or coins. It can only be obtained from us.

Crafting with Needle and Thread
Augusta—Maine

The first step in knitting is to cast on, or what’s sometimes called "setting up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are several methods for this, and the one I prefer and usually use is as follows: Leave a spare end of thread long enough for the number of stitches you want to cast on, with the spool or ball of yarn on your right. Position the thread between your little finger and your ring finger on your left hand; bring the working thread across your palm, around your thumb, and back between your index and middle fingers. Bend your index finger over this thread (which is between the index and middle fingers), pass it under the thread crossing your palm, and then pull your index finger back or straighten it, forming a loop with crossed threads. Slide your needle under the lower part of this loop coming from the ball, wrap the working thread around the needle from right to left, as you would in plain knitting, pull it back through the loop, slip off the loop, and tighten the left thread. Then, continue to create the crossed loop and knit it off in the same manner for the next stitches. The whole process is very straightforward, even if the instructions seem lengthy because they are detailed. Take your needle and yarn, and follow the steps carefully, and you'll soon master the "crossed casting on."

Another method, which many prefer and is basically just as effective, though with a slightly softer edge, is as follows: Loop the thread around your left forefinger, holding the extra end between your thumb and second finger. Then, pass the needle upward through the loop, wrap the thread around the point, pull it back through the loop, remove the loop, and pull the extra thread tight. By passing the needle under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you'll actually create the crossed loop, and many people find this method easier than the first. The thread you use to cast on can be doubled, especially when starting a stocking, mitten, or any item that will experience a lot of wear.

Casting on can also be done with two needles, and many people prefer this method when there are a lot of stitches. Twist a loop around the needle in your left hand, bring the end of the thread or extra thread to the front, crossing the working thread to hold it in place. Alternatively, you can just tie a slipknot and place the loop on the left needle. Insert the right needle through this loop from left to right, wrap the thread around the tip of the right needle, and pull it through the loop, bringing the right needle back in front of the left. So far, this process is very similar to regular knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or loop, shift the stitch to the left needle by bringing it in front and inserting the tip through the loop from front to back, leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch. The loops aren’t slipped off like in regular knitting; instead, they’re transferred so that all remain on the needle. With a little practice, you’ll be able to cast on like this very quickly and evenly.

The basic knitting (Figure 2) is done like this: After casting on the required number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front of the left needle from left to right, with the right needle going behind the left; wrap the yarn around the tip of the right needle and pull it down between the two needles, then pull the tip of the right needle back through the stitch, creating a new stitch on the right needle and letting the old one slip off the left, while pushing down the tip of the left needle to make this easier; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off and the row is complete. When there are edges to be joined, like when knitting the back and fronts of a sweater, it's a good idea to slip the first stitch of each row.

Right here’s a tip about how to hold the thread that might be helpful: In the first method, the thread goes over the little finger of your right hand, under your second and third fingers, and over the tip of your forefinger, which should be kept close to the work. It’s this finger that passes the thread over the point of the right needle to create a new stitch. In another method, the thread goes over your left forefinger, under your second and third fingers, and over your little finger, just like you’d hold it for crocheting. Insert the right needle through the first stitch on the left needle as usual, push it over the thread on your left forefinger, and pull it back through the stitch with the tip of the right needle. You only hold the needle in your right hand, and many people say this makes the work much faster.

The purl or seam stitch (Figure 3) is the exact opposite of plain knitting, both in technique and appearance, as it is actually the wrong side of plain knitting. In plain knitting, the yarn is held at the back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two needles. Insert the tip of the right needle through the front of the first stitch on the left needle from right to left, bringing the right needle in front of the left. Wrap the yarn around the front of the right needle from right to left and bring it back between the needles, then push the tip down and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward like in plain knitting, with the right needle moving behind the left. Slip off the old stitch as usual, and make sure to return the yarn to its position at the back before starting to knit plain again.

Garter stitch, as it’s called (Figure 4) is just basic knitting back and forth, which creates a ridge effect, with one row knitted and the next purled. This stitch is commonly used for sweaters and other knitted clothing. If you want the right side to look like plain knitting, the first row should be knitted plain, and the next row should be purled. Since one is the opposite of the other, the right side will look like plain knitting, while the wrong side will be purled.

The rib stitch is alternately knit and purled. To create a single rib, * knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For a double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2; repeat; and for a triple rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. You can create any width of rib that you like, just be sure—unless you're knitting in the round, like for a wristlet, mitten, or stocking—to knit the stitches that were purled in the previous row and purl the stitches that were knitted. There’s a wide variety of fancy patterns that can be made by mixing plain knitting and purling, such as the basket stitch and others, in either even or broken "check."

There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the common garter stitch looks especially good when knitted from the back. Insert the needle from right to left through the back part of the stitch you're knitting; keep the thread behind the needle, then pass it from right to left over the needle and pull it through the stitch, letting it slip off just like in regular knitting. In this stitch, the two threads of the loop are crossed instead of lying side by side like they do in regular knitting.

"overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and often in intricate designs for wool knitting. To create an "over," bring the thread in front of the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch normally. This creates a loop over the needle, which you will knit as any stitch in the next row, thereby increasing the total number of stitches in that row. If you don't want to increase the stitches, you need to decrease by knitting two stitches together once for every "over." If you want a larger hole, wrap the thread around the needle twice, and then in the next row, knit one of these loops while purling the other.

To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the yarn to the front like you would for purling. Then, to create the extra stitch, move the yarn back over the needle and to the front again. Next, insert the right needle through two stitches instead of one and knit them together as if they were one stitch. "Fagot" is a commonly used abbreviation for this.

To slip and bind, slip the 1st stitch from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it; knit the next stitch, then pull the stitch on the right needle over the knitted one, allowing it to fall between the needles. To slip, narrow, and bind, slip the first stitch, knit the next two together, and pull the slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip the 1st stitch, knit the next, pull the slipped stitch over, knit the next stitch, pull the previous knitted stitch over, and continue, making sure that the chain of stitches you cast off is neither too tight nor too loose, but as elastic as the rest of the work.

A sleeveless sweater, as lovely as it is cozy, needs six skeins of Shetland yarn and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink yarn was selected for the model, but any color you like can be used instead.

Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket stitch, like this:

1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, finishing with knit 5.

2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.

Repeat these two rows twice, making a total of 6 rows; then change the check knit on the 7th row to be like the 2nd, the 8th like the 1st. Repeat this twice, and then change the check again by going back to the 1st row. Keep going until the border is five checks deep, or 30 rows.

Knit across in plain and purl back for 84 rows; decrease 1 stitch on each side every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on your needle, which gives you 89 rows from the border. Knit across in plain and purl back for 38 rows; put these stitches on a large safety pin for convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for the neck, and on the remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to create the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to create a V-shaped neck for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole, and on the next row cast on 8 stitches for the underarm. Do not widen further toward the front, but keep knitting forward and purling back for 85 rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to match the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to match.

Pick up the stitches around the armhole, 80 in total, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6 rows to create a checked edge; bind off. Pick up the stitches on the front, going to the center of the back of the neck, about 175 in total, and make a row of checks to match the arm, then bind off; work a border in the same way on the other side of the front, and sew it neatly at the back of the neck. Also, join the underarm seams, making sure to perfectly match the checks of the border.

For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches and follow the instructions for the border until it's the length you want; the belt shown is 42 checks long. At one end, crochet 3 chain loops, filling them with doubles, and sew 3 pearl buttons that match to the other end. The belt is secured along the top in the back, creating a short-waisted effect.

Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (the model used dark rose, but you can choose any color you like), three balls of gray Angora, one pair each of bone knitting needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a steel crochet hook, No. 6.

For the sweater: Using size 5 needles, cast on 100 stitches for the back (this will measure 20 inches). Knit straight back and forth (which will create ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each end of the needle every 8th row to shape the back until there are 76 stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline); knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle every other row for 3 times, or until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back measures 15½ inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for the back of the neck, and with the other 25 stitches knit one front following the directions given, and the other to correspond.

Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front every other row until you've added 6 stitches; cast on 7 more stitches toward the front, giving you 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, increasing 1 stitch toward the armhole every other row until you've added 12 stitches, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60 stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit the 60 stitches for 9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm or side seam, until it's the same length as the back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit the other front to match and sew up the side seams.

With a needle, pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on the front (you should have an odd number of stitches on the needle), and on another spare needle, pick up the stitches across the back. On another needle, pick up the stitches from the front, so you have the same number of stitches on that needle. Tie a thread in the 1st stitch on the needle at the bottom of each front, towards the front, which will be the corner stitch.

1. With size 5 bone needles, start at the top of the left front, knit 1, * yarn over, decrease, repeat from * to the corner stitch, yarn over, knit the corner stitch, then repeat from * to the next corner, yarn over, knit the corner stitch, repeat from * until only 1 stitch remains, yarn over, knit the last stitch.

2. Knit plain, with each "over" creating a stitch to replace the narrowed one.

3. Knit to the corner stitch, yarn over, knit the corner stitch, yarn over, knit to the next corner stitch, yarn over, knit the corner stitch, yarn over, and knit plain to the end of the row.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the start.

In the next row, create the buttonholes like this: Knit 2 stitches from the neck, bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and repeat, making 8 buttonholes spaced 13 stitches apart. In the next row, cast on 4 stitches over the points where they were bound off, then repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows for 4 more ridges, and bind off.

Sleeves.—Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in ridges, adding 2 stitches at each end of the needle every other row until you have 74 stitches on the needle (about 15 inches), knit for 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle every 12th row until you have 56 stitches left on the needle, continue knitting until the sleeves measure 17 inches or your desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13 ridges for the cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges, bind off, and sew up the sleeves and cuffs.

Collar.—Using the dark rose, pick up 84 stitches around the neck of the sweater (not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle, pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of the collar; using gray Angora and No. 3 needles, alternate between the 3rd and 2nd rows for the border until there are 7 ridges, and then bind off.

Pockets.—Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, then switch to Angora yarn and No. 3 needles. Knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in the 4th ridge at the center of the pocket. Bind off and attach the pocket securely to the sweater. Sew in the sleeves.

Belt.—With a dark rose color, cast on 23 stitches (about 4½ inches), knit in ridges until the belt matches the width of the back at the waistline, bind off, and sew in place with two buttons on each side.

Buttons.—With dark rose, chain 3, turn; skip 1 stitch, make 8 double crochets in the next; make 2 double crochets in each of the 8 double crochets; * make 2 double crochets in the 1st double crochet, 1 in the next; repeat from * until the circle is big enough to cover the mold, then work 1 row without increasing, slip the mold in, * work around with 1 double crochet in a stitch, skip 1, repeating from last * until closed. If you prefer, you can knit a small square like the body of the sweater and use it to cover the mold.

The skating cap is 23 inches in head size, and needs three skeins of dark rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool, and 4 steel needles size 8.

Using Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2 needles and 46 stitches on the 3rd, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl 1) in rounds for 1½ inches. Change to rose floss and knit in single rib for 1 inch; switch back to Angora and knit in single rib for 1½ inches. Change to rose floss and continue in single rib until the top measures 14½ inches, then bind off and pull together, leaving enough space for the tassel to be sewn in.

Tassel.—Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie them in the center, fold where tied, and tie again below. Sew the tassel on top of the cap.

Scarf.—You will need four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss, two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone knitting needles. Using the gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles, cast on 60 stitches and knit 7 ridges. Switch to the rose floss and No. 5 needles to knit another 7 ridges. Then, go back to the Angora wool and No. 3 needles to knit 7 more ridges, and again switch to the rose floss and No. 5 needles for 50 inches, or to your desired scarf length. Finally, just like at the start, knit 7 ridges of Angora, 7 ridges of rose, and another 7 ridges of Angora; then bind off.

Knitted Gloves.—You will need three skeins of Shetland floss and four steel knitting needles, size 12. Use two strands of the floss at the same time.

Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in a single rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as you want, then knit 16 rounds plain.

61. Knit until you have 4 stitches left in the round, increase by 1, knit 4, increase by 1.

62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.

Repeat the last 5 rounds, adding 2 stitches every 5th round until you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on the needles.

To create the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4 stitches between the widening points, making a total of 18 stitches on 3 needles.

Knit 22 rounds without any pattern. * Decrease by knitting 1; repeat all the way around; knit 1 round plain; repeat from *. Decrease until the thumb is closed, pull the yarn through, and leave a tail to secure on the wrong side.

Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at the base of the thumb, making 48 stitches on the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches like this: Slip 24 stitches onto one knitting needle for the top of the hand, starting from the 3rd cast-on stitch at the beginning of the thumb, and place the remaining 24 stitches for the palm of the hand on another needle.

First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from the top of the hand, slip the remaining 18 stitches onto a safety pin, and also place 18 stitches from the palm of the hand onto another safety pin. Cast on 3 stitches for between the fingers, then knit the remaining 6 stitches from the palm of the hand, making a total of 15 stitches. Knit 30 rounds on these, and finish off as instructed for the thumb.

Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from the back of the hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 stitches from the palm of the hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at the base of the first finger, totaling 19 stitches on the needle; * knit 1 round plain; knit to the last 2 stitches of the round, which will be 2 of the picked-up stitches, decrease; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining knit 28 more rounds, 34 rounds in total; decrease off like the thumb.

Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from the safety pin at the top of the hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 from the palm of the hand, and pick up 3 stitches at the base of the second finger, totaling 18 stitches; knit the first 6 rounds as instructed for the 2nd finger, knit 25 more rounds on the remaining 15 stitches, and decrease as for the thumb.

Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from the back of the hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches from the palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at the base of the 3rd finger on the 3rd needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then decrease like for the thumb.

These instructions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove the same way until you reach the point where you separate the stitches for the fingers; then keep in mind that the palm of the glove should be facing you, with the thumb on the right side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from the palm, cast on 3, and knit 7 from the back of the hand, reversing the directions provided for the left glove.

Hood.—Cast on 80 stitches and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35 ribs; then join the new color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border back to its width and pick up the stitches along the edge of this and the 6 ribs behind it on the body of the hood, then the stitches around the neck and the other side of the border, knit 3 ribs, then on the next row, knit 4, decrease, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row creates the holes for the cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs, and bind off.

The hood can be any size you want by casting on any number of stitches and knitting just half that number of ribs.

Scarf.—Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a slightly wider scarf); knit 14 rows of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray, and 2 of blue; then knit 34 inches of gray, 2 rows of blue, and continue with the other end just like the first, but reversing the order. Tie knots for the fringe with the two colors at each end.

Sweater.—Cast on 60 stitches and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you're knitting back and forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back to give the work the look of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches for one sleeve, knit back, and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit 30 rows on this length, then transfer 65 stitches to an extra needle, bind off 14 stitches for the neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches, knit 12 rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit 28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the remaining stitches, transfer these to an extra needle, work the other front to match, transfer all the stitches to one needle, knit until the front is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches; bind off evenly.

Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of the sleeve and knit back and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams and fold back the cuffs.

For the collar, pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.

Work around the edge of the collar and down the front opening with double crochet, making 1 chain in between; lace up the front with a cord, finishing the ends with balls or tassels.

Jacket.—Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26 stitches for the sleeve, knit the back, and cast on 26 stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit the remaining 43 stitches, and continue with the front on those. Knit 6 rows, then keep knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will give you 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without increasing, then bind off 26 stitches, and knit the rest of the front to match the back.

Knit the other front the same way, sew up the sleeves and underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet using color, with 1 chain in between, and around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in each stitch, skipping a space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray yarn, make 2 trebles, a picot of 3 chains caught in the last treble, and 1 treble around the neck, and between the 1st and 2nd trebles of the shells around the body of the jacket. Finish the edges of the sleeves the same way, and run in the cord and balls.

For the Hood.—Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 rib rows, then knit 2 rows of color and 2 rows of gray; bind off, sew up the back of the hood where you cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet, spacing 2 chains between, using color. Work the shells around the front of the hood, and finish with gray shells, like for the jacket. Run in the cord, using balls of the two colors of yarn.

The cords can be made with plain crochet, the regular chain, or, as is preferred for its strength, using a method called the "fool's delight." It's unclear why it's named that. It actually seems like a very practical technique: Take a length of yarn that's six times as long as the desired cord; make a slip or half knot at one end and pull the other end through it to create a loop, then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between the thumb and forefinger of one hand, say the right, with the yarn that pulls through the knot under the same hand, and the loop formed on the forefinger; hold the yarn that doesn't pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand through the right loop from front to back, grab and pull through the non-pulling left-hand thread—just like making a chain stitch in crochet—transfer the knot (which ties the two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, keeping the loop over the forefinger, and pull up the pulling yarn. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn, and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as it was in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of the right hand through the loop, catching the non-pulling thread and pulling it through to form the new loop (back on the right hand), transfer the knot, and pull up. This technique is effectively a double chain, and once you've learned to make it consistently and neatly, you'll find it better for bags, lingerie, and many other items that need a drawstring or cord.

Use fourfold Germantown yarn and a pair of size 5 needles, along with one pair that's two sizes smaller. Since needle sizes can vary and knitting methods differ, it’s a good idea to knit a small block before starting the actual pattern. Cast on about 12 stitches, knit across, and purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. You should have 5 stitches per inch in width, and seven rows should equal an inch in length. If you get fewer stitches, switch to larger needles, like size 6.

It’s also a good idea to practice on the pattern a bit, so you’ll get comfortable with it and can adjust the width while keeping the ridge. Cast on any number of stitches that's a multiple of four, plus one stitch. Knit 2, purl 2, until only one stitch is left, and knit that. All rows are the same, with the odd stitch breaking the rib and creating a ridge. When you start decreasing later, you can check if you’re maintaining the pattern by looking at the knitted stitch, which forms a kind of chain right on top of the ridge, and this must be maintained throughout.

Left front: Cast on 65 stitches using the larger needles and knit 12 rows plain for the band at the bottom edge.

13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting the last stitch.

14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10. Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in total.

111. Knit 2, decrease, knit 6; end the row in pattern.

112. Continue in the pattern until there are 9 stitches left, then knit those.

113. Knit 2, decrease, knit 5; keep following the pattern.

114. In the pattern, knit the last 8 stitches.

115. Knit 2, decrease, knit 4; keep following the pattern.

116. Similar to 114th, knit 7 at the end.

117. Knit 2, decrease, knit 3; keep following the pattern.

118. Just like 114th, knitting lasts 6.

119. Knit 2, decrease, knit 2; keep going with the pattern.

120. Bind off 3, knit in the pattern until you're 5 stitches from the end, then knit those.

121. Knit 2, decrease, knit 1; keep going in the pattern.

122. Just like the 120th row, knit 4 at the end.

123. Knit 2, decrease; continue in pattern.

124. Just like the 120th row, knit 3 at the end.

125, 127, 129. Just like the 123d row.

126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in the pattern until 3 stitches are left, then knit those.

130. Knit in pattern until there are 3 stitches left, then knit those.

Continue working until you finish the 171st row, knitting the odd rows like the 123rd and the even rows like the 130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle. From there, keep going until you complete the 183rd row, increasing at the beginning of the 172nd, 176th, and 180th rows by knitting into the back and then into the front of the 2nd stitch. You should then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and bind off.

Right front: Start like the left front, knitting 12 plain rows.

13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to the end, knitting the last stitch.

14. Knit 2, purl 2, and repeat until only 11 stitches are left. Purl 1, then knit 10. Keep repeating the last two rows until you reach a total of 27 rows.

28. Knit as usual until you have 10 border stitches left, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4.

29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and keep going as usual. This creates the buttonhole. Make five buttonholes spaced evenly apart, and start the narrowing for the collar in the 11th row, continuing like the left front.

Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the pattern until you have a total of 120 rows, which brings the work to the armhole.

121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit the rest as usual, making sure to maintain the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, which will result in taking 8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63 stitches.

177, 178. Knit in pattern until you're 7 stitches away from the end; turn, leaving these stitches on the left-hand needle without knitting.

179, 180. Knit in pattern until you have 13 stitches left (including the 7 stitches you left behind), then turn.

181, 182. Knit in pattern until you have 19 stitches left, then turn.

183. Knit 4, decrease, (knit 5, decrease) twice, knit the rest normally, to the end of the needle.

184. Knit plain all the way across, and bind off.

Cast on 97 stitches for sleeves.

1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.

2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1, turn.

3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.

4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1, turn.

5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3, turn.

6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1, turn.

7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.

8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1, turn.

9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3, turn.

10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1, turn.

11. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn.

12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until only 7 stitches are left, then turn.

13. Similar to the 12th row, leave 4 stitches at the end.

14. Slip 1, knit 1, *purl 2, knit 2, repeat until the end, knitting the last stitch.

15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to the end, knitting the last stitch. Keep knitting in the pattern, decreasing at the beginning and end of every 8th row until you have 73 stitches left, then knit without decreasing until you’ve completed 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.

Take the smaller needles and start the cuff on the sleeve stitches like this: Slip 1, (knit 2 together) 3 times, (knit 1, knit 2 together) 14 times, knit 2, to the end of the row.

Repeat the last 3 rows until you have 2 stitches left, then bind off.

Pockets.—Using the larger needles, cast on 23 stitches.

1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.

2. Slip 1, *purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.

3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.

Repeat the last two rows until you have 32 rows in the pattern, then knit 10 rows plain for the top of the pocket and bind off.

To make the coat, first press the edges of the front; stretch it into shape, pin it to an ironing board, cover it with a damp cloth, and press with a fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from shrinking, as the ribs tend to do. For sewing, use a blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and shoulder seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges perfectly even, being careful not to pull the sewing yarn too tightly to avoid puckering the seam. Sew up the sleeves, placing the sleeve seam an inch in front of the side seam, easing in any fullness at the top. Position the center of the collar at the center of the back before sewing it on; this must be done on the right side of the coat, and the collar should be turned over. Sew on the pockets, aligning the ridges, and attach five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, to match the buttonholes. Place a small pearl button behind the larger one on the wrong side of the coat and sew through both together.

This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It can easily be made longer if you want, but the design is great for everyday wear, looks sharp, and can be knitted quickly.

As suggested, a great approach when knitting a sweater in any stitch is to follow a pattern and adjust to fit. First, take an old piece of fabric and cut it into any style you want. Sew it up and try it on, making sure it fits well. Then, cut along the seams and take it apart. Use thumbtacks to secure the different parts on a flat surface and knit to the measurements, taking care not to stretch your work.

This sweater needs five skeins of worsted-weight yarn and four balls of Angora; electric blue for the main part of the sweater and gray Angora were used in the example, but you can pick any colors you like. The project involves basic knitting back and forth, with a ribbed waistband. Using the worsted yarn and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the back, which will be about twenty-four inches wide, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. For the next row, * knit 4, then narrow, repeat from *. After that, switch to No. 12 steel needles and knit 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the waistband. Change back to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch at the end of the needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs straight, without decreasing. For the next row, knit 34 stitches, place them on a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches for the neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1 stitch at the armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 ribs straight. Switch to the steel needles and follow the same instructions for the waistband (purl 3, knit 3), starting from the front edge. Once the waistband is done—20 rows of triple rib—change back to No. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong side. Knit the other front to match, skipping buttonholes if they're not used.

For the sleeve: Working on the right side of the sweater, pick up 1 stitch in each rib around the armhole, for a total of 72 stitches; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle every 8th rib, for a total of eight times. Switch to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; then switch to the larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, decrease; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.

Collar: Using size 5 needles and worsted-weight yarn, cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. Switch to Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the needle every other row, and then bind off. Working on the right side of the collar, pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner while keeping the neck edge even, and then bind off. Make the other side of the collar to match and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool can be made wider by adding more rows or ribs as desired.

Two large buttons made of knitting worsted—either knitted or crocheted—and equipped with a loop stitched on each side are used to fasten the belt.

For the buttons: Using a bone hook that will hold the yarn, create a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in the 2nd stitch of the chain make 8 doubles; in the next round, make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both loops so there won’t be any ribbing; then make 1 double in the 1st stitch, 2 in the next, and repeat. Keep going around and around until you have a circle that will cover the button mold—5 rounds in total were needed for the top of the buttons used in the model, work around without increasing, slip it into the mold, then * skip 1, make a double in the next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If you prefer, knit a tiny square as you did for the body of the garment; use this to cover the mold, pulling it snugly over and fastening it underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, and make a double in each stitch; secure it underneath the button.

Use size 16 steel needles with Spanish knitting yarn or worsted yarn. Cast on 57 stitches.

1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice.

2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

3. Purl 2, slip and bind off, knit 9, decrease, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, decrease, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

5. Same as 4th row.

6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off onto a separate needle, hold this at the back of the work, knit the next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on the separate needle; repeat.

Continue the pattern, twisting the "cable" as instructed every 6th row, until the wrist measures seven patterns in length. Then move one cable up the back of the hand, with an openwork stripe on each side, and knit straight across the palm.

Start the thumb at the top of the wrist. Since the gloves are designed for the right and left hands, be careful when starting the thumb to ensure they don’t end up for the same hand. For the left-hand glove, start the thumb on the right side of the stripe, and for the right-hand glove, start it on the left side of the stripe. Begin the thumb by increasing, knit 1, increase; knit 3 rows as usual, then increase, knit 3, increase; keep doing this until the thumb has expanded to 17 stitches. Place these on 2 needles, and on a 3rd needle, cast on 7 stitches, join, and knit once around. For the next 3 rounds, decrease 1 of the 7 stitches each round, arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then decrease at the end of each needle until you have 6 stitches left. Put these on 2 needles and bind off.

Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches you cast on at the base of the thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches onto 2 needles, or, if it’s easier, transfer them onto a piece of yarn. For the little finger: Take 8 stitches from the back needle and 8 from the front, then cast on 6 stitches. Knit one round straight, decrease 1 of the 6 stitches in each of the next 5 rounds, knit for 2 inches, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each needle until 6 stitches are left, place these on 2 needles and bind off.

First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for the little finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next to the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for the inside of the finger, knit once around plain. In the next 4 rounds, decrease 1 of the 6 stitches, knit for two and a half inches, and finish off as before.

Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for the first finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches for the little finger, and put these on a separate needle. From the other side, take 9 stitches, cast on 6 stitches, and knit until you reach those left for the little finger. Decrease 1 from these and 1 from the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and a half inches, and finish off as directed.

Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from the last finger, knit in plain stitch, follow the instructions for the third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches in plain stitch, and finish off.

Materials needed are three skeins of fourfold Germantown yarn, in two colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a bit of black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers shown.

Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn using medium-sized steel needles. Knit back and forth until you have a perfect white square, then switch to the next color. The square is for the toe of the slipper.

Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long enough to wrap around the sole of the slipper and connect to the square on the other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.

Darn the white with black; starting at the lower right corner, pull the needle through the first two ribs and down between the next two, skip three ribs, keeping the long thread on the back side, and repeat, alternating every other row. This can be done before you attach the strip to the opposite side of the square, if that's easier. Sew it to the sole using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be stretched a bit while sewing to ensure the slipper fits snugly on the foot.

For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Weave in the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches. Sew it to the top of the slipper, fold it back, and add the bows.

These slippers are super easy to knit, really cute, and can be made to fit any foot size. For a larger slipper, cast on more stitches for the square, which will make the strip wider; knit it long enough for the bigger foot, and make the border wider if you want. A smaller slipper starts with fewer stitches, following the same general instructions.

Two colors of Saxony yarn, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel knitting needles, size 14, are needed for these bootees.

With color, cast on 57 stitches.

Knit in plain stitch.

2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.

3. Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rows three times; knit 2 rows in color; with white, repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows twice, and then knit 2 rows plain in color and 2 rows plain in white.

With white yarn, knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).

With color, knit 2 rows plain; then with white, knit 8 rows in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and then knit 2 rows plain again with color.

With white yarn, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternating for 4 rows; this creates the look of regular knitting on the right side.

Make a series of spaces to run the ribbon like this: Knit 2, * yarn over 3 times, knit 1; repeat from * to the end of the row. Purl back, dropping 2 of the yarn overs.

Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single rib to finish the leg.

For the instep: Slip the first 18 stitches onto the needle, join the color, knit 21 stitches, turn, and knit back. Using white, knit 1 row and purl 1 row alternately for 6 rows. Repeat the last 8 rows three times, which will create four white stripes and the same number of narrow color stripes; then knit forward and back with the color again.

For the slipper or foot, using color, knit 18 stitches off the right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of the instep, knit 21 across the instep, pick up 17 on the other side, and knit the 18 stitches on the left needle. Knit back and forth for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the foot and the back of the leg, and thread a ribbon through the spaces.

These booties go up to the knee and are both warm and cute. The ribbed parts make them fit snugly, so they’re not likely to slide down and off the little feet.

Use Saxony yarn with needles in the right size, depending on whether you knit tight or loose. Size 17 is a good average. Cast on 18 stitches on each of three needles.

Knit 2, purl 1; repeat until the wrist reaches your desired length, about two inches.

For the pattern, knit this way:

Purl stitch.

2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.

These 4 rows keep repeating.

Begin to widen for the thumb in the second row above the wrist; to widen, pick up a stitch between the needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows in pattern, and then widen again, knit 3, widen across the base of the thumb. Keep going like this, adding 2 stitches between the widenings every third row, and sticking as closely as possible to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around twice in pattern and place the thumb stitches onto a strong thread.

Knit around in pattern, and when you reach the thumb, cast on 7 stitches, or one third of the total stitches for the thumb. Keep knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then start narrowing. The way you do this depends on the shape of the hand you're fitting. For a standard mitten, narrow every 5th stitch and knit around 5 times; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit around 4 times; every 3rd stitch and knit around 3 times; every 2nd stitch and knit around 2 times; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every stitch, draw the yarn through, and finish the end neatly and securely. A good idea is to "run" the tip of a mitten on the inside, like you would for the heel of a sock, since it makes it last longer, especially if it’s going to be used roughly. For a child's mitten, you can start narrowing with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is long and slender, you might knit an extra row between the widenings for the thumb.

Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3rd, pick up and knit the stitches across the hand that were cast on. When you knit around for the first time, decrease once at each end of the picked-up stitches.

Even the stitches on the needles, and knit in pattern until you reach the base of the nail, then decrease, starting with once in 3 stitches. Pull through the last stitches at the tip and weave in ends.

Elderly people, or anyone prone to rheumatic aches, appreciate knee caps, and a pair of them makes a great gift for grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn were used for the model, which can be made heavier or lighter depending on whether you choose coarser or finer yarn.

Cast 35 stitches onto each of three needles and knit about 30 rounds in a single rib—that is, knit 1, purl 1, back and forth. You’re now ready to start the gore, which can be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket stitch (or any other decorative pattern) as shown in the model.

Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches aside; take one stitch from each side every time across until there are only 42 stitches left on both idle needles. Decrease at the end of the working needle each time until there are just 26 stitches remaining on the working needle. Pick up 23 stitches along the selvage on each side, divide the stitches evenly across the three needles, and you should have the original 35 stitches on each needle. Then knit 30 rows in a single rib pattern, bind off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells anchored down in every other stitch.

To create the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat this for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat the first 3 rows, positioning the 2 plain stitches directly in the middle of the 6 purled stitches from the previous rows. This adjustment, done after each plain row, creates the woven or basket effect, and the pattern looks really nice for sweaters.

Wristers or pulse-warmers are really cozy on a cold day, especially the ones described here, as they fill the sleeve and block out the wind completely. Using knitting worsted, or yarn of any size or quality you prefer with matching needles, similar to those used for a man's knitted sock, cast on 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and alternate knitting 2 and purling 2 for 35 rows or more, depending on the length you want. Bind off loosely.

With a bone crochet hook, work straight rows from top to bottom, placing a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain stitches between the trebles; after the last treble at the edge, chain 2, skip a row, and come back on the next one.

Having filled in the rows of spaces, make 2 double crochets in the 1st space, 3 in the next, and keep repeating, working back and forth until all the spaces are filled. A really nice finishing touch is to work a row of double crochets in color, making a double crochet in each treble. For this finish, fine wool can be beautifully accented with crochet silk.

A fringed wristband can be created using the method outlined by holding a pencil vertically with your left hand, and with your right hand, sewing over it repeatedly; make the rows very close together, cut the wound yarn open with a sharp pair of scissors, and gently brush across it back and forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.

This motor-scarf can be in pink and white or any colors of Shetland floss you prefer. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.

1, 3. Knit.

Knit in a solid color.

4. Knit 3, then make two decreases; repeat across, finishing with knit 3.

5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.

Knit solid.

7, 9. With white, purl stitch.

Knit in stockinette stitch.

Repeat until the scarf is the desired length. The sides are finished with shells in white, using 8 trebles well drawn out in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening in the center of the white stripe with 1 double.

Finish the ends with six-inch-long fringe, knotted in, made up of 10 threads each of pink and white.

A very stylish scarf uses brown Shetland wool as the main color, with deep cream, green, and rose combined with the brown for stripes. Using size No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join the cream color and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of rose; (2 of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making the other end of the scarf as directed for the first half.

For the fringe, cut brown strands six inches long, and knot one strand into each stitch.

For a lighter scarf, use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will create a much more open design. If you want, you can add rows of fancy knitting instead of colored stripes. In fact, once you've made one scarf, you'll find it easy to vary it in many ways, and experimenting with those variations can be a fun project.

Many people prefer to use a silk thread or mercerized crochet cotton with Shetland floss or any other wool that they choose.

Using Shetland floss and size 4 bone needles, cast on the number of stitches needed for the width of the scarf, in a multiple of 6 plus 2.

Knit back and forth 6 times.

7. Knit 1, yarn over 3 times; repeat, knitting the last stitch.

8. Knit 1, pull up the loop to about one inch long, (drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to the left-hand needle, pull the last 3 over the 1st 3, knitting each one, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at the end of the row. Make sure the long stitches aren’t twisted.

Knit in plain.

Repeat from 7th row.

Gather the ends of the scarf and finish it with a cord and tassel, or a ribbon bow, whichever you prefer.

(Official Red Cross Photos)

Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting yarn (¾ pound), five strands, and a pair of amber needles No. 5 or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit straight until the sweater measures 25 inches. Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for the neck loosely. Knit the remaining 28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, then cast on 24 stitches. Knit straight for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up the sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. Do 2 rows of single crochet around the neck and 1 row of single crochet around the armholes.

White medium weight knitting cotton; 1 pair of Red Cross size 1 needles.

Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth in a simple stitch until the cloth is about 10 inches square, and then bind off. Attach a loop of tape to one corner.

A service sock needs three skeins of knitting yarn for two pairs, using No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3rd. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.

Knit 10, or halfway across the 3rd needle, pick up an extra stitch and purl it, always keeping this for the seam stitch at the back of the leg, knit plain to the end of the round. Keep knitting plain and purling the seam stitch for four inches.

Knit until you're 3 stitches away from the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, and knit straight to the end of the round. Repeat, narrowing as instructed every 6th round, a total of 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.

For the heel: Put 15 stitches on each side of the middle or seam stitch, and knit back and forth, alternating 1 row plain and 1 row purl, for 25 rows, always slipping the first stitch. To turn the heel, slip the first stitch, knit 15, decrease, knit 1, turn the work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 3, decrease, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, decrease, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, decrease, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, decrease, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, decrease, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, decrease, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, decrease. Then pick up 17 stitches down the side of the heel next to the needle just finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the needle for the front of the foot, and pick up 17 down the other side of the heel; then continue to knit with half the stitches left at the top of the heel.

Knit 1 round plain; decrease on the 2nd round like this: On the 1st side needle, knit up to 3 stitches before the end, decrease, knit 1; then knit across the front needle; on the side needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, and knit to the end. Decrease this way every 2nd round until you have 15 stitches on each side needle, reducing them to match the front needle, and make 10 decreases for the instep.

Knit five inches straight without any decreases, then decrease for the toe like this: Knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the first side needle, decrease, knit 1; on the front needle, knit 1, slip and bind off as before, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, decrease, knit 1; on the other side needle, knit 1, slip and bind off, and knit straight to the end. Knit 2 rounds straight, then repeat the last 3 rounds three more times; after that, decrease with 1 plain row in between three times, and then decrease every row until there are only 4 stitches left on the front needle. Finish off neatly by pulling the toe together and weaving in with a worsted needle.

One package of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles size No. 2.

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit straight for 8 inches for the front piece, then leave it on an extra needle. Knit another piece to match for the back. Both pieces need to be at least 9 inches wide. Slide the stitches of both pieces onto 3 needles, arranging so that the last 2 stitches of the back piece are at the start of the 1st needle, with 38 stitches from the front piece added (making 40 on the 1st needle).

Divide the remaining stitches onto the other 2 needles; 36—36.

Beginning with the 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on the 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for the face opening. (Try to keep the same arrangement of stitches on the needles for further instructions.) Knit 2, purl 2 back and forth on the remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping the first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely to complete the face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from the end of the 3rd needle to the 1st needle, making 42 on the 1st needle).

Knit 1 round without any pattern. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, then knit 2 stitches together, and knit 1. Repeat this until the end of the round. Knit 4 rows without any pattern. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, and knit 1. Repeat this until the end of the round. Knit 4 rows without any pattern. Keep doing this, decreasing every fifth round and reducing the number of stitches between decreases by 2 (like 7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on the needles. Divide the stitches onto 2 needles, with 14 on the first needle and 14 on the second.

Break off yarn, leaving a 12-inch end. Thread it into the worsted needle and proceed to weave the front and back together like this:

* Pass the worsted needle through the 1st stitch of the front knitting needle as if you're knitting, and slip the stitch off—pass through the 2nd stitch as if purling—leave the stitch on, pass the thread through the 1st stitch of the back needle as if purling, slip the stitch off, pass the thread through the 2nd stitch of the back needle as if knitting, leave the stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are off the needle.

Two and a half skeins of knitting yarn and one pair of size 5 amber needles, or size 3 Red Cross needles, are needed. Cast on 50 stitches, which should measure 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is 68 inches long.

White medium weight knitting cotton; 1 pair of Red Cross size 1 needles.

Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth in plain stitches for 9½ more inches, or until the entire piece measures 13½ inches. Next, decrease 2 stitches at the beginning and 2 stitches at the end of each needle until you have sixteen stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece the same way and sew them together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to the seam on one side of the ribbing to tie around the neck of the bottle.

One bundle of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair of Red Cross Needles No. 2.

The helmet is made in two pieces, which are later stitched together.

Front of Helmet.—Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit straight for 25 ribs (6 inches), and then knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row, create the face opening like this: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, then knit and loosely bind off the next 28 stitches, then purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Place the stitches before the opening on a spare needle. For the stitches on the other side of the opening, knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening. At this point, cast on 28 stitches to make up for the ones you bound off. Start at the face opening stitches on the spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At the end of the 12th row, continue across to the end of the other needle, where you should have 48 stitches on the needle, just like at the beginning. Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.

Top of Helmet.—Knit 2, decrease (knit 2 stitches together), knit 14, decrease, knit 14, decrease, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3rd row, knit 2, decrease, knit 13, decrease, knit 13, decrease, knit 11. Purl the 4th row. On the 5th row, knit 2, decrease, knit 12, decrease, knit 12, decrease, knit 10. Purl the 6th row. Keep decreasing in the 3 places every plain knit row with 1 stitch less between decreases until 9 stitches are left.

Back of Helmet.—Work in the same way as for the front, but leave out the face opening. Sew the upper edges together with a joining stitch. Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at the shoulders open.

The thumbless mitt or wristlet needs half a hank of gray knitting yarn, using No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches equal one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches; bind off and sew it up, leaving a thumb opening that's two inches long and three inches from one end. The regular wristlets or pulse warmers are knitted the same way, measuring 8½ inches long, and are sewn up with no thumb opening.

Wristlets made in one piece need one half hank of yarn and 4 bone needles No. 3 or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To create the thumb opening, knit 2, purl 2 to the end of the "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back to the end of the "First" needle, always slipping the first stitch, then turn. Keep knitting back and forth for 2 inches. After that, continue as before for another 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely and add a buttonhole for the thumb opening.

One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2 or steel needles No. 11 or 12.

Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches together until you have 12 stitches on each of the two needles facing each other. Cut the yarn and weave the stitches together according to the instructions for finishing the one-piece helmet.

Materials needed are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone needles size 4, and a pair of steel needles size 15.

Cast on 68 stitches.

1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.

17. Knit 6 stitches, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.

18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.

Continue working like this, knitting 6 more stitches forward in each row and knitting back on the same until you have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36 stitches, then turn. This creates 6 ridges on one side of the work. Now knit straight across all 68 stitches.

Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting the 6 ridges on one side of the work); in the next row, decrease once at each end of the row, and keep doing this, decreasing a stitch at each end, until you have 50 stitches left on the needle.

Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then start the cable twist for the ankle like this:

1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches onto a spare needle, knit 6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle to form the twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches onto the spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.

2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.

3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 7.

Repeat the last 2 rows alternately for 30 rows, making the twist, as instructed in the 1st row, every 6th row.

For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around the edge of the instep, and work back and forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.

Make the other leg the same way, sew up the seams, and connect the two at the middle seam.

Around the top, there’s a row of openings for the drawstrings to run through, like this:

1. Fasten on, chain 5, * skip 2, make a treble in the next stitch, chain 2; repeat around and join to the 3rd chain of the 5.

2. Skip 1 space, make 4 trebles in the next space, skip 1 space, secure in the next; repeat.

Crochet a wool cord and add tassels to the ends.

Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit straight back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or fold of the hood.

Next row, knit 1, * yarn over, decrease, knit 1; repeat, creating holes to thread the ribbon through.

Now switch to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches spread out along the front near the top to make the back slightly fuller. *Knit 1 row, purl 1 row, and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to create a nice edge.

Bind off 26 stitches at each end of the work; make sure this is done on the wrong side, right before knitting the last row of the last rib, since binding off finishes the rib and is important for keeping all the ribs uniform.

Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches in the triple ribs described. Increase twice at each end of the crown needle during the first 2 ribs. Knit the same number of ribs as the front, decreasing once or twice at each end of the needle near the very end of the crown.

Pick up the stitches for the neck around the lower part of the crown and the fronts, about 18 stitches on each front and alternating loops on the crown; knit across with blue, creating a row of holes like on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew them neatly to the stitches that were bound off at the lower edge of the front.

Sew the crown neatly to the front, thread the ribbon through the designated spaces, tighten it a bit, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.

By adding extra stitches to the front and making the crown larger accordingly, these instructions will work perfectly for a baby's first hood or for any size hood you want.

The stitches and terms provided here are commonly used and were taught to the writer by an English crochet instructor, who is a professional in the craft. In some magazines and books, the actual slip stitch is left out, and the single stitch is referred to as a slip stitch; the double stitch is called a single, the treble is called a double, the double treble is called a treble, and so on.

There are different ways to hold the crochet hook and carry the thread, and many people see one method as just as good as another unless, as is often the case, someone thinks their own way is a bit better. The following instructions were provided by the English teacher in question and are commonly accepted: Hold the hook in your right hand much like you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle rest between your index finger and thumb, which support the hook. Hold nothing else in your right hand, and don't let your fingers touch the work at all. Use your left thumb and index finger to hold the work, letting the thread pass over your raised index finger, under your middle finger, over your ring finger, and under your pinky. These instructions are especially useful for working with yarn when you want to keep the project as soft and fluffy as possible.

The chain. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, pull the thread through this loop (that is, slide the hook under the thread that goes over your forefinger, pull it back to catch the thread, and pull it through the loop on the needle), creating a new stitch or loop. Pull the thread through this, and keep going until the chain is the desired length, tightening each loop as you pull it through so that they all have a uniform size and smoothness. After some practice, this becomes second nature. When abbreviations are used, the one for chain is ch.

The slip-stitch is essentially a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch off the needle, insert the hook through the stitch of the piece you want to join, pick up the dropped stitch, and pull it through, creating a secure connection. This stitch is occasionally used to "slip" along certain areas of the work, moving from one point to another, but single crochet is more commonly used for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.

Single crochet (Figure 2, often referred to as slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch) is done like this: With a stitch on the needle, insert the hook into the work, grab the thread, and pull it through both the work and the stitch on the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.

Double crochet. (Figure 3). With a stitch on the needle, insert the hook into the work, pull up a thread, and draw it through, leaving you with two stitches on the needle; then pull up a thread and draw it through the two stitches. The abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet stitch; the slipper stitch, or ribbed stitch, is created by working into the back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in the previous row. A completely different effect is achieved when the hook is inserted under both loops.

Treble crochet. (Figure 4.) With one stitch on the hook, yarn over as if to make a stitch, insert the hook into the work, yarn over again and pull through, leaving three loops on the hook; * yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. The abbreviation for treble crochet is t c. It's important to note that the single crochet has one "pull," the double has two, and the treble has three, which is how these stitches got their names.

Half-treble or short-treble crochet. Like a treble stitch; then yarn over and pull through all three loops at once.

Double-treble crochet. (Figure 6.) With a stitch on the needle, yarn over twice, insert the hook into the work, yarn over again and pull through, resulting in four loops on the hook; (yarn over and pull through two) three times. The abbreviation for double-treble crochet is d t c.

Triple-treble crochet. (Figure 7.) Yarn over three times, insert your hook into the work, yarn over again and pull through, creating five loops on the hook; then work them off two at a time, like you do with double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.

One might occasionally need to use other extra-long stitches, like quadruple crochet (wrapping the yarn around the hook four times before inserting it into the work), quintuple crochet (wrapping it five times), and so on, which are worked off two at a time, just like in treble or double treble crochet. When turning, one chain stitch counts as a double, two chain stitches as a half or short treble, three chains as a treble, four as a double treble, five as a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each additional "draw."

Parentheses ( ) and asterisks or stars * * are used to avoid repetition and save space. They indicate repeated actions. So: (Chain 3, skip 3, 1 treble in the next) three times is the same as chain 3, skip 3, 1 treble in the next, chain 3, skip 3, 1 treble in the next, chain 3, skip 3, 1 treble in the next; or to * chain 3, skip 3, 1 treble in the next, repeat from * twice.

The worker should be careful when choosing a hook. It should be well-made, smooth, and the right size to handle the wool without snagging or roughing it up. If it's too large, the work may end up looking sloppy. Needles that have been used for a while are easier to work with than brand new ones. If all types of crochet needles were numbered consistently, it would be easy to identify sizes; however, since no two manufacturers use the same numbering for the same sizes, the guidelines provided are the best we can do.

One color or two can be used to make this stylish jacket, which is super trendy and really comfortable for the cool days and evenings you’re bound to have during summer outings. You’ll need six skeins of fourfold Germantown; or four skeins of one color for the main body and two skeins of white for the border if you choose to make it in two colors.

Make a chain of 54 stitches, then turn.

1. Skip 3, double in the next, * chain 1, skip 1, double in the next; repeat from * along, making 26 doubles; turn.

2. Chain 2, a double crochet in 1 chain, * chain 1, a double crochet in the next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.

Repeat the 2nd row until you've made a strip that's 22 inches long for the back, working up to the shoulder.

Now work back and forth for one shoulder and the front, repeating the 2nd row until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and continue repeating until you have completed 4 rows.

In the next row, increase by making 2 double crochets with 1 chain between them, at the center of the row, finishing the row as usual; increase in the center of every 8th row until you have 15 double crochets in the row, then continue without increasing until the front is the same length as the back.

Leave 8 double crochets for the back of the neck and with the remaining 9 double crochets, work the other side to match.

For the border: Start (with the border color, if using two colors) at the left front corner, make a treble stitch under 1 chain (chain 3 for the first treble), * chain 1, and make a treble stitch under the next 1 chain; repeat from * all the way around, placing 2 treble stitches with 1 chain in the same stitch at the corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.

Make another row the same way, then do seed stitch like you did for the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows, increasing the same stitches at the corners each time.

Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing the front and back together. Starting in the 10th chain from the bottom of the front and back, work the usual way for 25 stitches, doing a double crochet under each chain. Work from the underarm around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches long, or as long as you want, then create 2 rows of spaces in treble crochet, just like before, and finish with 7 rows of seed stitch, the same as the body of the jacket.

For the picot edge: Work 2 double crochets in 2 stitches, then chain 3 for a picot; repeat.

The stitch provided is very simple and attractive, but any other decorative stitch you like can be used. For example, there’s the Lancaster stitch, which is made like this: Create a chain of an even number of stitches, then turn.

1. Skip the first stitch, make a double in each of the remaining stitches, then turn.

2. Chain 3, yarn over, pull a loop through the 1st stitch, yarn over, pull a loop through the next stitch, yarn over, pull a loop through the same stitch, yarn over, pull a loop through the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all the loops on the needle. * Chain 4, make a double in the 1st stitch of the chain just made, which completes or joins the cluster of loops, yarn over, pull a loop through the same stitch with the last loop of the previous cluster, yarn over, pull a loop through the next stitch, yarn over, pull a loop through the same stitch, yarn over, pull a loop through the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all the loops on the needle, and repeat from *; turn.

3. A double crochet in the 1st space, double around the thread between the 4 chain and cluster; repeat, ending with a double crochet in the top of the 3 chain with which the last row started. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows for the pattern.

The bird's-eye stitch is simple and nice: Once you have a chain of the desired length, turn.

1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.

2. A double crochet in the front loop of the stitch from the last row, a double crochet in the next double crochet, using the back loop; repeat to the end, and repeat the 2nd row.

Still another nice stitch, easily adjustable to any garment, is as follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.

1. Miss 1, double in each remaining stitch of the chain, turn.

2. Make 1 chain, then double crochet in each double crochet from the last row, and turn.

3. Chain 1, make a double crochet in each of the 2 doubles, * yarn over, insert the hook into the 3rd stitch of the 1st row, pull the yarn through, (yarn over, pull through 2 stitches) twice, skip 1, make a double crochet in each of the next 2 doubles; repeat from * to the end of the row, turn.

4. Same as 2nd row.

5. Chain 1, do a double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, * yarn over and make a treble crochet as before, inserting the hook under the treble crochet from the 3rd row, skip 1, do a double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches; repeat from * to the end, turn. Repeat the 4th and 5th rows.

And another one: Create a chain of the needed length, then turn.

1. Skip 3, make a treble in the next stitch, * skip 1, make 2 trebles in the next stitch, repeat until the end of the row, then turn.

2. Chain 3, make 2 treble crochets between each group of 2 treble crochets in the last row; repeat. Repeat the 2nd row.

For the model, one skein of electric-blue knitting worsted and a ball of gray Angora wool were used, along with a hook large enough to handle the yarn comfortably.

Make a chain of 3 stitches, then join them together.

Seven doubles in the ring.

2. Two doubles in each double, working both strands of the stitch.

3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.

4. A double in each of 2 doubles, then 2 in the next; repeat.

5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in the next; repeat.

Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings in each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section—between widenings—or more, if a larger crown is desired.

33. Do a double for each of the 7 doubles, skip 1; repeat.

34. Double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

36 to 45. A double in each stitch.

46, 47. Using gray Angora wool, create a double in each stitch and neatly secure the last row.

Cover a large, flat button mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in the 2nd stitch of the chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of the 8 doubles, working in both strands of the stitch; then make 1 double in the 1st stitch, 2 in the next, and repeat. Keep working around and around, increasing to keep the work flat, until you have a circle that will cover the button mold, about 6 rounds; then work once around without increasing, slip in the mold, * skip 1, make a double in the next, and repeat until the cover is closed.

For the edge of the button and the cord around the top of the band, you can either create a double chain, use a regular chain filled with double crochet, or—better yet—knot the cord using the "fool's delight" method, which is really quite practical: Start with a length of Angora wool that’s six times the length of the cord you want; it’s better to begin with a longer piece in case it shrinks more than expected. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the yarn, then pull the other end through to form a loop, and tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between your thumb and forefinger of one hand (let's say the right), with the yarn that pulls through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop formed on your forefinger, while holding the non-pulling yarn in your left hand. Pass the forefinger of your left hand through the loop on your right forefinger from front to back, grabbing and pulling through the non-pulling or left-hand thread—just like you would when making a chain stitch in crochet. Move the knot that ties the two ends together to your left hand, keeping the loop over your forefinger, and pull the yarn that was originally passed through the half knot. Now, the position of the loop, pulling yarn, and knot is exactly the same in your left hand as it was in your right. Continue by passing the forefinger of your right hand through the loop on your left forefinger, catching the non-pulling thread and pulling it through to form a new loop (on your right forefinger again), transfer the knot from your left hand to your right, and tighten the yarn, repeating the process from the beginning. This essentially creates a kind of double chain, and once you learn to do it evenly and well—with a bit of practice—it will turn out to be ideal for bags, lingerie, and many other items that need a drawstring or a cord.

Sew this cord evenly around the button and the top of the band, and the cap is finished.

Use Germantown worsted, white or any color you like, with a hook that's big enough to handle the yarn easily. Start with a chain of 140 stitches, then turn.

1. Miss 3, 1 double crochet in each of the next 68 stitches, shell of 3 double crochets, 2 chains, and 3 double crochets in the next stitch to widen for the center of the back, 1 double crochet in each remaining stitch, turn.

2. Chain 3 for the 1st treble, then do a treble in each treble, including the 3 trebles of the shell, up to the 2 chain. Make a shell as before under the 2 chain, then do a treble in each stitch following to the end, then turn. Always work in the back loop of the stitch to create a ribbed or striped effect.

3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready to be joined.

Commencing at the center point of the back, count 26 stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This will leave about 65 stitches for the armhole.

For the border:

1. Make a shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, skip 2, make a treble in the next stitch, skip 2; repeat. Start with 3 chains for the 1st treble of the 1st shell, and join to that.

2. Make a shell of 6 treble crochets between the 3rd and 4th treble crochets of the shell in the previous row, and then do a treble crochet into the treble; repeat.

3. Chain 4, slip stitch in the 1st stitch to create a picot, then make a double crochet between 2 trebles. Repeat this to make 5 picots around the shell, then make a double crochet in the single treble; repeat.

Work around the armhole in the same way.

Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color you want, and a size 4 bone hook, or a hook big enough to handle the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in two parts along the length and is joined in the center of the back.

Make a chain of 160 stitches, then turn.

1. Make a double crochet in each stitch of the chain, chain 1, then turn.

2. A double in each double, working in the back strand of the stitch to create a rib.

3. Make star stitches along the rib like this: Chain 3, pull a loop through the 2nd and 3rd stitches of the chain, counting from the hook, and pull a loop through each of the 2 doubles; take up the yarn and pull through all 5 stitches on the needle, chain 1 to close the star, pull a loop through the eye of the star just made (under the 1 chain), another through the back part of the last vertical loop of the same star, and a loop through each of the 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat until the end of the row, then turn.

Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then do a row of star stitches, and keep going until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs. On the next row, work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star stitches each. Work a row of doubles, cut and secure the yarn tightly. Remember that all the star stitches must be worked on the right side; the first row will do this, but the second won't unless you cut the yarn at the end of the second rib and fasten it in at the other end again. Then chain 3 and continue with the row.

Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, skip the first 6 stitches (which equals 3 stars) and work to the end of the row in star-stitch; create a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, alternating the ribs, leaving 1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.

Work the other half to match, then connect at the center of the back with a single crochet, inserting the hook through a loop of each piece. If done carefully, the joining won't be noticeable. Also, join under the arms, leaving openings for the armholes.

For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, placing a double in each stitch around the whole piece—fronts, bottom, and neck—widening at each of the lower corners in every row to create the miter. Alternatively, you can start by working around the neck and down the fronts first, finishing the border, and then move around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for the miter looks neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of the front; chain 5, skip 5, and repeat, creating as many openings as you want, spaced evenly. When working back in the next row, also do a double in each stitch of the 5 chain.

For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, plus 1 to turn, then work a rib of double crochets on the chain, followed by 40 star stitches. Repeat this until you have 10 rows of star stitches and 11 ribs, making sure, as before, that the stars are always worked on the right side. Join the sleeve seam on the wrong side with single crochet, just like you did for the back.

For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch and then turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and attach buttons that are the right size for the garment and match the buttonholes.

This sweater can easily be made larger to any size you want by starting with a longer chain and adding more rows of star-stitch and ribs to maintain the proportions. The mix of stitches is really appealing.

Materials needed are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein of blue or pink, along with a bone hook of the appropriate size to work with the yarn smoothly.

Make a chain of 78 stitches.

1. On the chain, make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Cut the wool and reattach it at the beginning of the row to ensure all stars are made on the right side. Alternatively, you can work back with a row of doubles to the beginning of the 1st row.

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as the 1st row, but you only widen every other row, and make sure to do it exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front, which will constantly increase the upper part of the sleeve, or the gore between the 1st and 2nd and 4th and 5th widenings.

9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for the armhole, attach in the 1st star on the back, keep making stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across the front again.

10. Same as the previous row, adding 11 stars on the chain under each arm.

11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Just like the 10th row, widen only in the center of the back every other row, just like before. This finishes the body of the jacket.

21. To start the border, attach the colored wool at the left front corner of the neck, and create 21 stars down the front. At the corner, make 2 stars as if to broaden it, so you can turn the corner nicely, and keep going all the way around to the top of the right front, without widening at all in the back of the border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner just like at the beginning.

Colorful stars everywhere.

23. Attach the white wool at the top of the left front, chain 3, then make 2 double crochets in the center of each star all around, with 4 double crochets in the center of the stars at the corners, so that the work lies flat.

24. With color, attach at the top of the left front, chain 3, and make 2 double crochets between each pair of double crochets from the last row, with 4 at the corners.

25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.

26. Create spaces of triple crochet across the top of the neck, separated by 2 chains, to thread a cord or ribbon through.

27. Also with white, make 2 treble stitches in each space.

28. With color, make 2 triple crochets between each group of the last row.

29. Just like the 28th row, use white. This finishes the collar.

30. Secure the color at the top of the left front, * chain 4, secure in the space between the trebles, and repeat from * all around the jacket, including the collar; finish off neatly.

For the sleeve:

1. Secure the wool where you began the underarm chain, create the necessary number of stars (without widening) across the shoulder, and make 9 stars on the chain under the arm.

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as the 1st row, creating a star on top of the star from the previous row, and connecting underneath the arm.

12. With color, work the cuff in star stitch, but skip taking the stitch under the back loop of the star in the last row and instead take a loop through each of the 2 eyes of the stars. This pulls in the sleeve and creates only 12 stars in the round.

13. With the color, create a star within a star.

14. Use white wool to make 2 treble stitches in the center of each star.

15, 16, 17. Same as the 28th, 29th, and 30th rows of the border.

This creates a cute, soft little piece of clothing. If you want, you can mix treble stitch with star stitch on the return rows; that is, after finishing a row of stars, instead of cutting the yarn, turn, chain 3, and crochet trebles across, or you can cross the trebles to create a fancier effect by making a treble in the second stitch, then a treble back in the previous stitch.

Run ribbon that matches the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck.

Materials needed are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.

1. A double in the 8th chain stitch, * chain 3, skip 3, 1 double in the next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in total, turn.

2. Chain 4, make 3 trebles in the 1st loop, * chain 1, make 3 trebles in the next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

3. Chain 4, a double crochet in the first chain, * chain 3, a double crochet in the next; repeat until the end of the row.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 a total of 23 times to create 24 rows of blocks in total, alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three sections: 4 blocks for the back of the neck and 4 for each side. Follow the same instructions as row 3 until you've made 4 blocks, with the last block consisting of 4 trebles. Turn and work back the same as in row 3. Repeat these 2 rows two more times. In the next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under the 4th loop, chain 4, turn, skip 3 of the 6 trebles, place a double between the next 2, chain 3, secure under 1 chain, and continue across. The following row will include 5 blocks, and you'll have a total of 20 rows with 5 blocks each, matching the length of the back. Create the other front in exactly the same way.

For the border:

1. Attach at the corner of the neck (at the end of the 1st row of 5 blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom, adding 3 extra trebles at each corner to make the turns smooth, then up over the shoulder and down the back, and continue around to the opposite corner, skipping the stitch between the blocks.

2. Secure the blue yarn at the right front and create a row of loops as instructed, connecting the chains between groups of 3 double crochets.

Make 3 more rows of blocks, the same color as the body of the jacket, always including the 3 extra trebles (6 in total) at the corners to turn, and after the 2nd and 3rd rows, follow with a row of loops in blue.

For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and secure the yarn at the back of the jacket at the desired width for the sleeve—9 blocks from the top of the shoulder, as shown in the model. Chain 9, attach it to the front, and work around the armhole with a row of loops (gray), making a total of 21 loops, with 3 under the arm. Chain 3, then make 2 trebles under the 1st loop, chain 1, and 3 trebles under the next loop; repeat this pattern around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks until you reach the required length. The model has 25 rows of blocks, finishing with a row of loops.

For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks at the top of the sleeve, secure in the 8th loop (the 3rd from the center loop at the top of the sleeve), and work around as usual to the 3rd loop from the center on the other side, then turn. Create a row of loops, followed by a row of blocks. Attach the blue yarn to the sleeve, and work around the cuff with loops; make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at the corners to turn, and continue to match the jacket's border, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue chain-loops.

For the collar: Attach the yarn at the neck corner, in the 1st block made in the border, and make 3 treble stitches in the same spot. Create a block on the side of each of the next 3 blocks along the neck towards the back, placing a chain stitch between each. Add 2 blocks on the side of the next block to widen, then make 6 blocks, widen again, and finish with 3 blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue the same way as for the cuffs, widening as instructed and making 6 treble stitches under each of 2 consecutive loops in the outer row, twice. Join at the beginning and end of each row to the upper edge of the jacket border.

Finish with a loop border like this: A double crochet between blocks, (chain 3, double crochet in the same spot) twice. Crochet a chain with the blue yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops like the edge, and tie in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff, lace them together, and tie in a small bow on the sleeve. Use a similar chain to gather the neck.

Any preferred colors can definitely be used. The jacket can be easily made big enough for an adult, and it's beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.

Materials needed are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool of silk-finished crochet cotton or crochet silk, and two and a half yards of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook that works well with the yarn.

Make a chain of 100 stitches, then turn.

1. Skip the first 4 stitches, make a treble in each of the 96 stitches, pulling it up to about five-eighths of an inch. Cut and secure the yarn (this ensures the work is done on the right side; you can turn it if you prefer, but the result won't be as nice).

2. Secure your starting point, pull it up, create 2 treble stitches on top of the 3rd treble, and then make 1 treble back to your starting point, which creates a cross; repeat this to make a total of 32 crosses; cut the thread and join in again at the end where you started.

3. Make 21 triple stitches over 7 crosses, (12 triple stitches over the next 2, 18 triple stitches over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and then again 21 over 7, which brings you to the end of the row. The 12 triple stitches over 2 are to widen; the others are made with 2 on each cross and 1 between.

4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.

5. Do 21 plain trebles (that means, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over the next 4, 21 plain.

48 crosses.

7. Make 21 regular stitches, 12 on the next 2 crosses, 12 regular, (12 on the next 2, 24 regular) twice, 12 on the next 2, 12 regular, 12 on the next 2, 21 regular.

58 crosses.

9. Knit 24 knit stitches, skip 12 purl stitches, knit 24 knit stitches, purl 12 stitches for the next 2, knit 24 knit stitches, skip 12 purl stitches, knit 24 knit stitches.

36 crosses.

11. Simple, with 3 additional trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6 crosses at the center of the back.

12. Forty crosses.

13. Simple, with 6 additional in the back.

42 crosses.

Like the 13th row.

44 crosses.

17. Similar to 13th row.

46 crosses.

19. Simple, without any flare in the back.

Around the neck, create spaces for the ribbon by attaching it at the end of the foundation chain. Chain 5, skip 2, and do a treble in the next stitch. * Chain 2, skip 2, do 1 treble, and repeat from *. Now create a row of crosses all the way around the jacket, adding extra crosses at the corners to keep the work flat. Follow this with a row of trebles, widening by adding extra trebles at the corners to turn them nicely. Finish with a row of shells made of 8 trebles: in the stitch, skip 3, fasten, skip 3; repeat this, and edge with the crochet silk. Make a double between the first 2 trebles of each shell, (chain 2, a double between the next 2) 6 times, chain 2, and double in the double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.

For the sleeves:

1. Make 6 treble stitches under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.

14 crosses.

3. Simple, with 3 additional treble stitches under the arm, totaling 45.

15 crosses.

5. Just like the 3rd row, make 48 treble stitches.

16 crosses.

7. Just like the 3rd row, make 51 trebles.

17 crosses.

9. Just like the 3rd row, make 54 trebles.

Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of the jacket. Run one and a quarter yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the rest, running it in the 7th row of the sleeve and making a nice bow on top.

These little shoes can be made from crochet cotton, silk, white or soft colors, or wool. They're very sturdy and well-fitted to the foot. The example pair was made from No. 15 crochet cotton; using finer or thicker material will create a smaller or larger shoe, following the same instructions.

Commence at the bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.

1. Skip the first stitch, do a double in each of the 31 stitches, 3 in the last stitch, 1 in each of the 31 stitches down the other side, and 3 in the last stitch, then join.

2. Do a double in the 1st stitch, 2 in the next, and 1 in each double down the side until you’re 2 stitches away from the middle of the toe, then 2 in the next, 1 in the next, 3 in the middle stitch, 1 in the next, 2 in the next, and 1 in each down the side, finishing with 2 in the 3rd stitch from the middle of the heel, 1 in the next, and 3 in the next, then join.

3. Chain 1, make 2 doubles in each of the next 2 stitches, then 2 in the next stitch, 1 in each stitch down the side until you're 4 stitches away from the end, then 2 in the next stitch, 1 in each of the next 3 stitches, 3 in the middle stitch, 1 in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 in the next stitch, 1 in each down the side, 2 in the 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 in the middle stitch of the heel, join.

4. Just like the 3rd row, add an extra stitch between the increases.

5. Chain 4, skip 1, make a treble in the next stitch, chain 1; repeat, creating 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each widening of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at the back of the heel.

6. Chain 1, add a double crochet in each stitch all the way around, making 2 doubles in the increasing gaps at the side of the toe and in the center of the heel.

7. Chain 1, do a double crochet in each stitch around, increasing as usual on each side of the toe and in the middle, as well as in the center of the heel; join.

8. Same as 7th row.

9. Chain 4, * skip 1, make a treble in the next, chain 1; repeat all around and join to the 3rd chain of the 4.

10. Chain 1, make a double crochet in each treble and in the spaces; narrow 11 stitches from the middle of the toe by inserting the hook through 2 stitches at once, or by skipping a stitch, also at the middle of the toe, and then join.

11, 12. Same as the 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as instructed.

13. Continue like the 11th row until you reach the 3rd narrowing on the vamp, then turn and work back across the vamp, narrowing at the end, and then turn.

14. Chain 1, make a double in each double across the vamp, narrowing in the middle and at the end.

15, 17. Like the 13th row.

16, 18. Similar to 14th row.

19. Chain 1, with a double stitch in each double, tapering in the middle of the vamp and on the sides.

20. Turn and work across the top of the vamp with two stitches in each one.

21. For the upper part of the shoe, slip into the first double at the side of the vamp, then for the second row, backchain 11, turn, skip 1, and make 10 doubles in 10 stitches. Catch into the first double on the side of the shoe, do a single in the next double on the side of the shoe, turn; make a double in each of the 9 doubles, with 2 in the last, turn; chain 1, do 2 doubles in the first double, 1 in each of the following doubles, join to the next double on the side, do a single in the next, turn; make a double in each double of the last row, with 2 at the end, turn; chain 1, do a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, skip 5, make a double in each of the following doubles, join to the next double on the side, do a single in the next, turn; do a double in each double, with 5 in the 5 chain stitches, turn; chain 1, make a double in each double; join, slip into the next double on the side, turn; work 5 more rows, adding 1 stitch at the end of every other row; then chain 4, turn; skip 1, make a double in each of 3 stitches and a double in each double, join, slip into the next double, turn; work back with a double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5, skip 5, double in double, join, slip into the next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue with double in double until you’re within 14 stitches of the top of the vamp on the other side, turn; chain 1, double in double to the edge of the flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in double around to the other side. Continue this way until you’ve worked 6 rows around the top of the shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. The shoe can be made taller if desired, and more buttonholes can be added.

For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in the ring; 2 doubles in each double; 1 double in each double; 1 double in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of the right size, pull together, and sew to the shoe, aligning it with the buttonholes.

Use 2-ply Shetland zephyr, or any similar moderately twisted yarn. Starting at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, then turn.

1. A double crochet in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles in the end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down the other side of the chain, in the same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were made, chain 1, turn.

2. Ten double crochets in 10 double crochets, using the back loop of the stitch to create the rib, 3 double crochets in the next, or center stitch, 10 double crochets in 10 double crochets, chain 1, turn.

3, 4, 5. Just like the 2nd row, add one more double on each side of the center for each row.

6. A double stitch in each double stitch, without widening, chain 1, turn.

7. A double in each double, with 3 in the center stitch.

Repeat the 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep as you want. If you prefer, you can widen every row by alternating between putting 2 double stitches in one row and then the next row for the widening doubles.

For the side of the foot, make 24 double crochets in 24 double crochets, chain 1, turn, do a double crochet in each double crochet, chain 1, turn, and keep going until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is long enough to comfortably wrap around the sole; join neatly to 24 double crochets on the opposite side of the vamp.

Around the top of the slipper, make a beading for the elastic like this: Secure it between 2 ribs, chain 10, * skip 5 ribs, make a triple treble (over 3 times) between the next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between the next 2, chain 5, and repeat from * all the way around, finishing with 1 triple treble, chain 1, and join to the 5th chain of the 10.

For ruching: Take 3 strands of yarn, insert your hook into the work, yarn over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about three-quarters of an inch, and always bring the yarn next to you to the next stitch; do this for the bottom of the beading as well, so it will be completely covered. Thread an elastic band or tape through the beading, between the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon in the same color as the yarn for the instep.

A pair of cute booties makes a lovely gift for a baby and is appreciated just as much by the baby's mom. Two very pretty styles are available: one in pink and white, the traditional colors for a girl, and the other in blue and white—blue being the color typically chosen for a little boy's items.

Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, then turn.

No. 1. 1.—Miss 1 stitch, make a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.

2. Chain 1, make a double crochet in each of the 10 double crochets, working into the back loop of each stitch to create a ribbed texture, then turn.

Repeat the 2nd row until you have 8 ribs. At the end of the last row, chain 11, turn, skip 1, and make a double crochet in each of the next 10 chain stitches and in the 10 doubles. Chain 1, turn, and keep going, making 4 long ribs. Then, focusing only on the 10 doubles, create 8 more short ribs, and attach them at the back of the leg to the foundation chain, working into each stitch.

For the upper part of the leg:

1. Chain 3, and make treble crochets all the way around, 38 in total, joining to the top of the 3 chain.

2. Pull the stitch off the needle, pull up a loop through the 1st and 3rd stitches of the previous row, take the yarn, and pull through all 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * pull up a loop in the same spot as the last one and another in the 3rd stitch, work off like before and repeat all around.

3. Pull the stitch off the needle, grab a loop in the space before the pineapple stitch of the last row and another in the space after it, work off as you did before, grab a loop in the same space as before, another in the next space, work off, and repeat.

4. Like the 3rd row, but in blue.

5, 6. Similar to the 3rd row, but in white.

7. With blue, a double in each stitch.

8. With white, chain 3, make a treble in each double, then join.

9. With blue, make 1 double crochet in the 1st stitch, chain 3, make 1 double crochet in the same stitch, skip 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.

For the foot:

1. With blue, make a double stitch in each stitch all around the bottom of the leg and instep.

2. A double in each double, using both strands of the stitch to prevent a rib.

3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.

5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.

7, 8, 9, 10. Just like the 2nd row, using white, connect to the last row with single crochet on the back side. Finish with a cord and tassels or a ribbon, weaving it in and out of the 1st row of trebles on the upper part of the leg.

No. 2. With the white yarn, create a chain of 37 stitches and join.

1. Chain 3, make a treble crochet in each stitch, then join.

2, 3. With pink, make a double crochet in each stitch and join. Repeat the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs of pink and white.

13. Chain 3 with white, skip the 1st stitch of the last row, make a treble in the next stitch, then a treble back in the 1st stitch to create a crossed treble; repeat all around, then join.

14. With pink yarn, make a double crochet stitch, chain 3; repeat. Cut the yarn and tie off securely.

For the foot:

1. With white yarn, attach it to the 17th treble from the back of the leg, pull up a loop through each of the 6 stitches while keeping them all on the needle; take the yarn and pull through the 1st stitch, * then pull through 2 stitches, and keep repeating until all are removed; now insert the hook under the little upright bar created by working off the last row, pull up a loop and repeat until you have the same number of loops on the needle again; keep going until you've completed 9 rows of afghan stitch.

Again using white, secure it at the back of the leg and make a double crochet in each stitch of the leg and around the instep; create 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in each stitch of the previous row, picking up both loops to avoid a ribbing effect, then 5 rows of pink in the same manner, connecting the last row as previously instructed. Finish with a cord and tassels or ribbon, threading it through the 4th row of trebles around the top of the bootee.

One skein of white and blue Saxony yarn will be enough for two sets; use a crochet hook that can handle the wool comfortably. Start the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches.

1. Make two double crochets in each chain stitch, then turn.

2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for the 1st treble of the row), skip 1 double; repeat until the end of the row, then turn.

3. A treble and a double taken between the treble and double of the last row; repeat.

4. Make a double crochet in each stitch of the last row (chain 1 for the first double crochet).

5. Same as the 4th row. This finishes the part over the shoulder.

On one half of the length, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th rows, and then the 2nd row again to complete one front. Do the same on the other half of the length, which will bring you to the center of the back and create half of the sweater. Make the other half to match, and join them neatly down the center of the back. Fold and sew under the arms, creating the armscye to your desired size.

For the sleeve: Create a chain of 15 stitches and repeat from the 1st to the 5th row; then repeat from the 2nd to the 5th row twice, and connect the last row to the 1st; also crochet the sleeve into the armscye.

Entirely around the sweater, make 4 rows of double crochet with blue yarn, working in both loops of the stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at the corners to turn smoothly. After finishing 2 rows of the left front, create the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chaining 3, skipping 3; then, in the next row, make a double crochet in each stitch of the chain.

Finish the bottom of the sleeves the same way, skipping every 2nd stitch in the first row to tighten the cuff a bit. Sew on pearl buttons to match the buttonholes.

Cap: Chain 5, then join to create a ring.

1. Chain 3, (yarn over the hook, insert the hook in the ring, pull up the yarn and draw it through) twice, yarn over and pull through all the loops on the needle, chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean stitches in the ring, and join to the top of the first.

2. Chain 3, and make a stitch on top of each stitch from the last row, and between every 2; join.

3. Chain 3, a bean stitch between every 2 stitches of the previous row, widening every 3rd or 4th by making a bean stitch on top of the previous bean.

4, 5. Same as the 3rd row, widening every 5th bean, or as needed to maintain the shape.

Make 5 more rows without widening, which finishes the body of cap.

For the border, turn the cap inside out and tie in the blue yarn, working on the inside to create the band so that it will fold up on the outside.

1. Chain 3, create a loop through the 2nd and 3rd stitches from the hook, and also through the next 2 stitches of the last row of the cap, * yarn over and pull through all the stitches on the needle, chain 1 to close the star, pull up a loop through the eye of the star you just made, under the 1 chain, another loop through the back part of the last loop of the previous star, and then do 2 loops in the next 2 stitches; repeat from *, and keep going until you’ve made 4 rows of star stitches. Fasten off neatly.

Make a tassel with the blue yarn and attach it to the top of the cap using a crocheted cord.

This set will make a lovely gift for a little girl. By using fourfold Germantown yarn, the sweater will be big enough for the little mother to wear herself, or it can be easily made larger by using thicker wool and following the same pattern on a longer foundation chain. The cap can also be sized up for a child by increasing the number of bean stitches in each row.

Materials needed are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a bit of light-blue Saxony yarn, along with a medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5, then join.

1. Make a loop that's one-fourth of an inch long, yarn over, hook into the ring, pull the loop through, then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the needle. * Chain 1, create a loop in the ring, yarn over, create another loop in the ring, yarn over, and pull through all 4 loops; repeat to create 4 more bean stitches, totaling 6, with 1 chain in between each, and join the last chain to the top of the first stitch.

2. Yarn over and pull through the 1st bean stitch, yarn over again and pull through the same stitch, yarn over and pull through all the loops; this is the 1st stitch of each row. Chain 1, make a bean stitch in the next space, chain 1, make a bean stitch in the previous bean stitch; repeat around and join.

3. Bean stitch in the 1st stitch, in each space, and every 3rd bean stitch, with 1 chain in between, join.

4. Same as the 3rd row, with a bean stitch over every 4th bean stitch.

5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as the 4th row, but add an extra space between the widenings; in the 5th row, create a bean stitch in every 5th stitch, and so forth, with a bean stitch in every 10th stitch in the 10th row.

11, 12, 13. Use a bean stitch in each space.

14. Switch to double crochet for the headband, making a double in each stitch.

15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both types of stitches; narrow twice in each row.

20, 21. Double in each double.

22. A bean stitch in each 2nd double, 1 chain in between.

23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Use a bean stitch in each space; tie off the white yarn.

28. Secure the blue yarn in the space, chain 4, draw up a loop in the 2nd chain from the hook, 1 in the 3rd, and 1 in the 4th, all with fairly long loops. Then, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1, secure in the next space with a single stitch, and repeat. This creates a small, pointed scallop and finishes the edge of the cap.

For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, and make 8 double crochets into the 2nd chain from the hook. Keep going around without joining, making 2 double crochets in each stitch for the first row, then increase just enough to keep the work flat until it's almost the same size as the button you want to cover. After one or two more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the button in, and continue, keeping the work snug over the button until about half of it is covered. Then, cut the yarn, pull it tight with a needle, and sew it to the center of the crown.

This cap is big enough for a three-year-old boy or girl and can be easily adjusted to fit larger sizes. The brim can be folded down over the ears for added warmth.

Use eiderdown or very thick Germantown worsted, with a hook big enough to handle the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.

1. Chain 3, make a loop through the 2nd and 3rd stitches of the chain, and 2 through the ring; grab the yarn and pull through all together, chain 1 to close the star, make a loop through the center of the star (under the last chain made), another through the back of the last loop, and 2 in the ring; complete as before, and repeat until you create 6 stars; join.

2. Make 12 stars in a row, joining the 4th loop of each star with the last stitch of the previous star, and the 5th stitch ahead, so that you create 2 stars over each star from the previous row.

3. Create 16 stars, expanding 4 times.

4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for the back of the neck and work back and forth for 3 rows. Break the yarn at the end of each row and fasten in at the beginning, so the stars will be on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through the 2nd and 3rd stitches of the chain, then continue as usual.

Make 4 rows of doubles along the bottom edge, then a row of stars all the way around the hood, making it wider by adding an extra star at each corner in front to avoid pulling.

For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in the ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to the 4th of the 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out of the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.

This hood can be easily made larger by following some basic instructions, and you can use any type of stitch, whether simple or decorative, for it.

Materials needed are one and a half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool, white or any color you prefer, and a medium-sized bone crochet hook. Although it's designed for a small child, this hood can be easily adjusted to fit any head.

Chain 4 stitches with white yarn, then join.

1. Chain 3 for a treble, then make 19 trebles in the ring and join.

2. Make a loop, insert the hook into the 1st stitch, * yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all the loops on the hook, chain 1, insert the hook into the same stitch, and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge stitches in the round.

3. Create a loop, insert the hook in the first space, create a loop, yarn over, insert the hook in the next space, create a loop, yarn over, pull through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert the hook in the same space, create a loop, yarn over, insert the hook in the next space, create a loop, yarn over, pull through all stitches on the needle, chain 1, and repeat, increasing by putting 2 stitches in every 3rd stitch of the previous round.

4. Increase in every 5th stitch.

5. Flat, that is, without expanding.

Widen every 3D stitch.

7, 8, 9. Simple.

10. Knit plain until you have 7 stitches left; cut the yarn and secure it at the other end.

11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as the 10th row, leaving 7 stitches for the back of the neck.

16. Secure it, chain 3, and do a treble in every stitch. It's really nice to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when creating the border.

17, 18. A double crochet in each stitch around the bottom or neck of the hood.

19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across the front, working through both strands of the stitch.

Turn down the hem, finish with a bow of ribbon at the back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties.

To make the hood larger, you just need to keep widening the crown until it’s the right size, which will make the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider. You can use any decorative stitch in the same way, following the general instructions provided.

This cute cap is designed to fit a girl aged ten to fourteen and can be easily adjusted to any size you want. You'll need five hanks of eiderdown-wool. If you want, you can use two colors, like white for the main cap and blue for the turnover or border. It's made using wedge-stitch, and you can use Germantown wool by adding more stitches. Grab a bone hook that’s the right size, one that can handle the wool without snagging. Start by making a chain of 4 stitches and join them.

1. Pull out the loop, insert the hook into the ring, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert the hook into the ring, pull up another loop, yarn over, pull through all the loops on the hook, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11 wedge stitches in the ring; join.

2. Create a loop, insert the hook in the first space, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert the hook in the next space, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert the hook in the same space, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert the hook in the next space, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all on the hook, chain 1, and repeat from *, increasing by adding an extra stitch in every other stitch of the last round.

Increase every third stitch.

4. Increase in every 6th stitch.

Work six rounds in plain stitch, without increasing; then if you're using color for the turnover, join it in and work one round, turn the work so that the border is right side out when flipped up, and work five more rounds. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, depending on how long you want the tassel to be. Wrap the yarn around four fingers, or a five-inch wide card, 20 times, slide it off, tie it tightly near one end to create the tassel head, and cut open the other end.

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The women of America are knitting like never before. In social circles, no gathering is considered stylish unless it includes knitting; businesswomen must knit on their commutes to and from work; and for the busy housewife, there’s no obligation more important than making time for knitting in her daily routine. It almost feels like the women of America—all women, from all walks of life—are coming together for one big cause: ensuring the comfort of our boys overseas.

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