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Philippine Craftsman Reprint Series
No. 1
Philippine Mats

The Government of the Philippine Islands
Department of Public Instruction
Bureau of Education
Manila
Bureau of Printing
1913
The Government of the Philippine Islands
Department of Public Instruction
Bureau of Education
Philippine Craftsman Reprint Series
No. 1
Philippine Mats

Manila
Bureau of Printing
1913
[1]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Foreword.
The present bulletin is a reprint from The Philippine Craftsman, Vol. I, Nos. 3, 4, and 5, and is issued in this form for the purpose of placing in the hands of teachers a convenient manual for use in giving instruction in this important branch of industrial work. In it are contained directions for the preparation of materials for mat making, with suggestive color schemes for these materials and details for weaving a number of approved Philippine designs.
The current bulletin is a reprint from The Philippine Craftsman, Vol. I, Nos. 3, 4, and 5, and is issued in this format to provide teachers with a handy manual for teaching this important area of industrial work. It includes instructions for preparing materials for mat making, along with recommended color schemes for these materials and details for weaving several approved Philippine designs.
The use of mats for sleeping and other household purposes is universal through the extreme Orient. Suitable mat materials abound in these Islands, and when proper attention shall have been given to the artistic and decorative side of their manufacture, the mat industry may well become a source of considerable revenue in thousands of Filipino homes.
The use of mats for sleeping and other household purposes is common throughout the Far East. There are plenty of suitable materials for mats in these Islands, and once proper attention is given to the artistic and decorative aspects of their production, the mat industry could become a significant source of income for thousands of Filipino families.
The Bureau of Education has for some years past been endeavoring to improve the designs used as well as the workmanship of Philippine mats, in order that the article produced shall be typical of the country, artistic in design, and of real commercial value. It is expected that this end will be definitely furthered through the study and use of the material contained in this reprint.
The Bureau of Education has been working for several years to enhance the designs and quality of Philippine mats, so that the products reflect the country’s character, are artistically designed, and have genuine commercial value. It is anticipated that this goal will be significantly advanced through the study and application of the material included in this reprint.
A considerable part of the subject matter of this publication is the original work of Mr. Hugo H. Miller, Mr. John F. Minier, Mr. U. S. Andes, Mr. Theodore Muller, and Mrs. Alice Brezina. Credit is also due to numerous American and Filipino teachers for the submission of reports and materials used in its preparation.
A significant portion of this publication comes from the original work of Mr. Hugo H. Miller, Mr. John F. Minier, Mr. U. S. Andes, Mr. Theodore Muller, and Mrs. Alice Brezina. We also acknowledge many American and Filipino teachers for their reports and materials that contributed to its preparation.
Frank L. Crone,
Frank L. Crone
Acting Director.
Interim Director
Manila, February 1, 1913.
Manila, February 1, 1913.

A high grade Romblon mat.
A premium Romblon mat.
[7]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Philippine Mats.
The production of mats in the Philippines is large because of the extensive domestic demand for them. The sleeping mat1 is used throughout the Christian provinces, and is also found among the Moros. Such mats are of the finer class and are usually more or less highly decorated with colored straws in various designs. For this purpose the buri petates are more widely produced than those made from any other material. Pandan mats are considered stronger and cooler but their use is not so extensive, probably because they are more expensive than the buri mats. In the Visayas, tikug mats are important.
The production of mats in the Philippines is large due to the huge domestic demand for them. The sleeping mat1 is used throughout the Christian provinces and is also found among the Moros. These mats are of higher quality and are typically quite decorative, featuring colored straws in various designs. For this purpose, buri petates are produced more widely than mats made from any other material. Pandan mats are considered stronger and cooler, but their use isn't as widespread, likely because they are pricier than buri mats. In the Visayas, tikug mats are significant.

Plate I. Boy carrying a bastos mat, Argao, Cebu.
Plate I. Boy carrying a bamboo mat, Argao, Cebu.
Another use of mats is in the baling of two of the staple products of the Philippines, tobacco and abaca. In the Cagayan valley mats of dried banana petioles are employed. A great many of these are made in Batac, Ilocos Norte, from which place they are shipped to Cagayan. In most cases the tobacco of the Visayas is packed in such mats also. At Argao, Cebu, banana petiole mats are woven as a by-product of the sabá cloth industry. In obtaining the fiber, the outer skin of the petiole is pulled off for stripping, and the remaining portion, which is called “upag,” is dried and woven into very coarse mats by children. These are called “bastos”2 or “liplip,” and are disposed of to the tobacco balers in the town, or are shipped to Cebu and other towns for baling purposes. While sabá sinamay is produced in several of the districts in the Visayas, notably in Bohol, it is not known that the upag is used for mat weaving there.
Another use of mats is in the packaging of two key products from the Philippines, tobacco and abaca. In the Cagayan Valley, mats made from dried banana petioles are used. Many of these are produced in Batac, Ilocos Norte, and then shipped to Cagayan. In most cases, the tobacco from the Visayas is also packed in these mats. In Argao, Cebu, banana petiole mats are woven as a by-product of the sabá cloth industry. When extracting the fiber, the outer skin of the petiole is stripped off, and the remaining part, called "upag," is dried and woven into very coarse mats by children. These are known as "bastos" or "liplip," and are sold to the tobacco balers in town or shipped to Cebu and other towns for baling purposes. Although sabá sinamay is produced in several districts in the Visayas, especially in Bohol, it is not known if upag is used for mat weaving there.
Coarse buri mats are almost exclusively used in wrapping abaca for the export trade. Since baling is carried on only in large seaports, particularly in Manila and Cebu, the weaving of these mats in certain localities where the buri palm is abundant [8]and their transportation to the hemp-producing towns are important industries.
Coarse buri mats are mainly used for wrapping abaca for the export market. Since baling only takes place in major seaports, especially in Manila and Cebu, weaving these mats in areas where the buri palm is plentiful [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] and transporting them to the hemp-producing towns are significant industries.

Plate II. Vendors of sleeping mats.
Plate II. Sellers of sleeping mats.
While they are not, strictly speaking, mats, plaited sacks3 are woven in the same weave and bear the same relation to sugar and rice as do mats to tobacco and abaca. Most of the domestic rice crop entering into commerce is packed in buri sacks and practically all the export sugar is sent away in them. A few bayones are made of pandan. The production of bayones is an important industry in certain districts.
While they aren't exactly mats, plaited sacks3 are woven in the same way and relate to sugar and rice just like mats do to tobacco and abaca. Most of the domestically produced rice that goes into commerce is packed in buri sacks, and almost all exported sugar is shipped in them. A few bayones are made from pandan. The production of bayones is a significant industry in some areas.
Mats are also employed throughout the provinces for drying paddy and copra in the sun, in the same manner in which trays are used for sun-curing fruit in temperate regions.
Mats are also used across the provinces to dry paddy and copra in the sun, just like trays are used for sun-curing fruit in temperate areas.
The use of the finer grades of petates for floor mats and for wall decoration is confined to the foreign population in the Philippines. Nevertheless, a considerable number is so utilized. For this trade only mats of the better grades are demanded, and the number sold for the purpose is probably considerably restricted by the fact that few mats are of suitable color combination and of proper design to satisfy foreign taste. As yet there is no known commercial export of Philippine mats. There is a considerable demand for floor mats and mats for wall decoration in Europe and in the United States, but it is improbable that the Philippines can hope to supply any part of it unless designs and color combinations [9]are vastly improved. Floor mats are used as rugs in the same manner as are the strips of Japanese matting which are so popular all over the world. Round floor mats, somewhat larger in diameter than the round table tops, are also in demand. Small mats can be used as doilies on the table or under the stands of flower pots and the like.
The use of higher-quality petates for floor mats and wall decoration is mainly found among the foreign population in the Philippines. Still, a significant number are used this way. This trade only demands mats of better quality, and the number sold for this purpose is likely limited by the fact that few mats have the right color combinations and designs to appeal to foreign tastes. So far, there is no known commercial export of Philippine mats. There is a strong demand for floor mats and wall decorations in Europe and the United States, but it’s unlikely that the Philippines can meet any of that demand unless designs and color combinations [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]are greatly improved. Floor mats are used as rugs similarly to the Japanese matting strips that are popular worldwide. Round floor mats, slightly larger than round table tops, are also in demand. Smaller mats can serve as doilies on tables or under flower pots and similar items.
Sleeping mats and mats intended for floors, walls, stands, and mat doilies are the ones which are suitable for domestic and foreign commerce, and industrial education must interest itself in them. The Philippine materials available for weaving these mats are varied and well distributed. With improvement in color combination and design, there should be a large increase in the industry.
Sleeping mats and mats meant for floors, walls, stands, and doilies are suitable for both local and international trade, and industrial education should focus on them. The materials available in the Philippines for weaving these mats are diverse and well-distributed. With better color combinations and designs, there should be a significant growth in the industry.
Bleaching Agents.
Sunshine is used to bleach all mat straws, but more often they are also treated with boiling water to which certain bleaching agents have been added. Only the most important of these are explained.
Sunshine is used to bleach all mat straws, but they are often treated with boiling water mixed with certain bleaching agents. Only the most important of these are explained.
Tamarind.—This tree (Tamarindus indica) is known in Tagalog, Bicol and Pampanga as sampalok, in Visayan as sambag, in Ilocano as salamagui, and in Palawan as kalampisao. It is a large tree with dense foliage. The leaves are employed as a bleaching agent in boiling water. It is said that the young green fruit can be used for this purpose.
Tamarind.—This tree (Tamarindus indica) is referred to in Tagalog, Bicol, and Pampanga as sampalok, in Visayan as sambag, in Ilocano as salamagui, and in Palawan as kalampisao. It’s a large tree with thick leaves. The leaves are used as a bleaching agent when boiled in water. It's also said that the young green fruit can be used for this purpose.
Pandakaki.—The leaves of the plant (Tabernaemontana pandacaqui) are used as a bleaching agent. This is the name under which it is known, particularly in Pampanga and Cavite. In Palawan it is called alibetbet. It is also known as kampopot in Tagalog and as alibubut and toar in parts of the Visayas. In Ilocano the name is kurribuetbuet.
Pandakaki.—The leaves of the plant (Tabernaemontana pandacaqui) are used as a bleaching agent. This is the name by which it is known, especially in Pampanga and Cavite. In Palawan, it is called alibetbet. It is also referred to as kampopot in Tagalog and as alibubut and toar in some areas of the Visayas. In Ilocano, the name is kurribuetbuet.
Lemons.—The juice of the various species and varieties of Citrus is employed to some extent for bleaching. It is usually added to boiling water in which the straw is immersed.
Lemons.—The juice from different types and varieties of Citrus is used to some degree for bleaching. It's typically added to boiling water where the straw is soaked.
Vinegar.—Of Philippine vinegars, those made from palm juices are considered about half as strong as lemon juice. Vinegar from sugar cane juice has probably the same strength. That made from cooked rice is considered about one-fourth as strong as lemon juice.
Vinegar.—Among Philippine vinegars, those produced from palm juices are thought to be about half as strong as lemon juice. Vinegar made from sugar cane juice is likely similarly strong. The one made from cooked rice is regarded as being about one-fourth the strength of lemon juice.
Alum.—In some towns alum is added to the boiling water in which straw is treated. It is usually employed in combination with other bleaching agents. [10]
Alum.—In some towns, alum is added to the boiling water used to treat straw. It's typically used alongside other bleaching agents. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Dyes Used on Mat Straws.
Mordants.
A mordant is a substance employed to fix the dye to the material. In general, different ones are needed for different dyes and various materials. In some cases the mordant is added to the dye liquid; in others the material is previously treated with it before being colored. The most important are the mineral mordants, such as the alumina, the iron, the tin, and the chrome. These are not used in the Philippines with local vegetable dyes. Tannin is also important and is employed to some extent in the Philippines, being generally obtained from the mangrove tan barks. Wood ashes are little used but vinegar and lemon juice are important.
A mordant is a substance used to set dye onto fabric. Generally, different mordants are required for different dyes and materials. Sometimes the mordant is added to the dye liquid; in other cases, the material is treated with it before dyeing. The most significant mordants are mineral ones, like alumina, iron, tin, and chrome. These aren't used in the Philippines with local vegetable dyes. Tannin is also important and is used to some extent in the Philippines, usually obtained from the tan barks of mangrove trees. Wood ashes are rarely used, but vinegar and lemon juice are essential.
Kolis.—The leaves of this plant (Memecylon edule) are commonly used in mordanting buri straw before dyeing it with sappan wood. In Tanay, Rizal, it is employed on sabutan straw with all of the vegetable dyes. It is known as guisian (Laguna), duigim (Ilocos, Pangasinan), kulis (Rizal, Nueva Ecija, Bataan), tagobachi (Leyte), kasigay (Ilocos Norte), agam (Negrito, Cagayan), guisoc-guisoc (Sorsogon), macaasin (Tayabas), baian (Zambales), diyatdiyatan (Tayabas), candong (Pangasinan), dioc (Pangasinan).
Kolis.—The leaves of this plant (Memecylon edule) are commonly used to prepare buri straw before dyeing it with sappan wood. In Tanay, Rizal, it is used on sabutan straw with all types of vegetable dyes. It is known as guisian (Laguna), duigim (Ilocos, Pangasinan), kulis (Rizal, Nueva Ecija, Bataan), tagobachi (Leyte), kasigay (Ilocos Norte), agam (Negrito, Cagayan), guisoc-guisoc (Sorsogon), macaasin (Tayabas), baian (Zambales), diyatdiyatan (Tayabas), candong (Pangasinan), dioc (Pangasinan).
Natural Vegetable Dyes.
Numerous natural vegetable dyes are employed in the Philippines. Those used on the mat straws are limited in number. The important ones only are here noted. The whole question of dyes is a most difficult one and hardly warrants the time which has been spent upon investigating the various dye materials, nor the effort which would be necessary to determine definitely the methods by which they can be used on mat straws. The artificial dyes have driven the natural vegetable dyes out of use because they are cheaper and are more easily applied, and because in most cases they produce more pleasing and lasting colors.
Numerous natural vegetable dyes are used in the Philippines. The ones used on mat straws are limited in number. Only the important ones are mentioned here. The entire topic of dyes is quite complex and doesn't really justify the time spent researching the different dye materials or the effort needed to clearly define the methods for using them on mat straws. Artificial dyes have largely replaced natural vegetable dyes because they are cheaper, easier to apply, and generally produce more appealing and long-lasting colors.
Sappan.—This plant (Caesalpinia sappan) is known as sapang in Tagalog and Ilocano and as sibucao in Visayan and Bicol. A beautiful dye varying from red to red-orange (see Plate III) is obtained from chips of the wood. This is employed on most Philippine fibers. Lime is sometimes used as a mordant but the straws are usually first treated with kolis leaves.
Sappan.—This plant (Caesalpinia sappan) is called sapang in Tagalog and Ilocano, and sibucao in Visayan and Bicol. A lovely dye that ranges from red to red-orange (see Plate III) is made from the wood chips. This dye is used on most Philippine fibers. Sometimes, lime is used as a mordant, but the straws are usually first treated with kolis leaves.
Turmeric.—This plant (Curcuma longa) is known as dilao [11]throughout the Islands. In Ilocano it is called kunig. Kalaoag is its name in Negros and Sorsogon, ange in Pampanga and duao in parts of the Visayas. The yellow dye obtained from the roots is fugitive in the sunlight.
Turmeric.—This plant (Curcuma longa) is known as dilao [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] throughout the Islands. In Ilocano, it is called kunig. It's called kalaoag in Negros and Sorsogon, ange in Pampanga, and duao in some parts of the Visayas. The yellow dye extracted from the roots fades in sunlight.
Annatto.—This plant (Bixa orellana) is generally known here as achuete. It is sometimes called achiote. The plant bears burs containing many small reddish seeds, from the pulp of which the dye is obtained. It is often employed in combination with turmeric. The result is a yellow orange. The dye fades easily.
Annatto.—This plant (Bixa orellana) is commonly known as achuete. It's also referred to as achiote. The plant produces burs filled with many small reddish seeds, which are used to make the dye. It's often used alongside turmeric, resulting in a yellow-orange color. The dye tends to fade easily.
Deora.—The use of this plant (Peristrophe tinctoria) is confined to the Visayas and Mindanao, where it is known by this name and also as dauda and daura. In Samar the name is dala-uda. It is a small bush and is usually grown in the gardens for its leaves and tender stems. A mordant is not used. The color ranges from yellow orange to a deep red orange.
Deora.—This plant (Peristrophe tinctoria) is found mainly in the Visayas and Mindanao, where it’s known by this name and also as dauda and daura. In Samar, it’s called dala-uda. It’s a small bush that’s typically grown in gardens for its leaves and tender stems. A mordant isn’t used. The color varies from yellow orange to a deep red orange.
The methods of using these dye materials are explained for each straw.
The ways to use these dye materials are explained for each straw.
Materials Used with Mud to Obtain Dark Grays.
Red or green straws are turned dark gray by burying them in mud to which certain substances (usually containing tannin) are added.
Red or green straws are made dark gray by burying them in mud mixed with certain substances (usually containing tannin).
Talisay.—This large tree (Terminalia catappa) is common in the Philippines. The leaves are added to the mud in dyeing straw black. From the bark a brown dye may be obtained. It is, however, seldom used. It is universally known as talisay. Spanish speaking people call it almendras.
Talisay.—This large tree (Terminalia catappa) is common in the Philippines. The leaves are used in the mud for dyeing straw black. Brown dye can be extracted from the bark, but it's rarely used. It's universally known as talisay. Spanish speakers call it almendras.
Indigo.—Two species of Indigoferae are grown in the Philippines and are known as tagum. Except with mud they are not used to dye straws.
Indigo.—Two species of Indigoferae are grown in the Philippines and are known as tagum. Other than with mud, they are not used to dye straws.
Tiagkot.—The leaves of this plant (Pithecolobium subacutum) are employed on Romblon Island in dyeing buri gray. Other names are tagayong, narandauel, saplit (Cagayan); carisquis, ayamguitan (Zambales); tugurare (Pangasinan); inep (Bulacan); malasaga, malaganip, tekin (Laguna); bahay (Sorsogon); tagomtagom (Samar); tique (Rizal).
Tiagkot.—The leaves of this plant (Pithecolobium subacutum) are used on Romblon Island to dye buri gray. Other names include tagayong, narandauel, saplit (Cagayan); carisquis, ayamguitan (Zambales); tugurare (Pangasinan); inep (Bulacan); malasaga, malaganip, tekin (Laguna); bahay (Sorsogon); tagomtagom (Samar); tique (Rizal).
Kabling.—This plant (Pogostemon cablin) is generally cultivated, though it grows where its cultivation has been abandoned. A volatile oil, used to keep away insects from textiles, is obtained from the leaves. The leaves are used in Tanay, Rizal, in obtaining gray sabutan straw. [12]
Kabling.—This plant (Pogostemon cablin) is usually grown intentionally, but it also thrives in areas where it was once cultivated. An essential oil, used to repel insects from fabrics, is extracted from the leaves. In Tanay, Rizal, the leaves are utilized to produce gray sabutan straw. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Mabolo.—The heart wood of this tree (Diospyros discolor) is known as kamagon. The leaves are employed in Tanay, Rizal.
Mabolo.—The heartwood of this tree (Diospyros discolor) is called kamagon. The leaves are used in Tanay, Rizal.
Castor.—This plant (Ricinus communis) is seldom cultivated in the Philippines but is found wild in all localities. The “beans” yield the oil. The leaves are added to mud in obtaining gray sabutan straw.
Castor.—This plant (Ricinus communis) is rarely grown in the Philippines but grows wild everywhere. The "beans" produce oil. The leaves are mixed with mud to make gray sabutan straw.
Artificial Dyes.
It is commonly believed that artificial dyes are less permanent than natural ones. This is seldom the case; as a matter of fact, some of the fastest and most valuable dyes are now made artificially and many are not procurable from vegetable coloring matters. Most of the cheaper dyes made from coal tar are fugitive; that is, they fade in sunlight or water or in both. They are often still further cheapened by being adulterated with salt, dextrine and the like. Such are the colors which are usually sold by the Chinese tienda keepers and which have caused artificial dyes in general to come into such ill-repute in the Philippines. Many of these “Chino dyes” contain 95 per cent salt. It is the belief, however, that artificial dyes of a good class, so packed and marketed that they will come cheaply to the hands of the dyers and weavers, will drive out of use practically all of the vegetable dyes now employed in the Philippines. The disuse of the natural dyes would not be regretted here, for, with the possible exception of those obtained from sabutan straw in Tanay, much finer colors can be produced with artificial dyes, as to both beauty and fastness. If the time of the workers is considered, the vegetable dyes now employed in the Philippines are more expensive than the artificial dyes, even though the latter are now sold in wastefully small packages and bear the burden of several large profits before they come to the hands of the persons using them.1
It’s often thought that synthetic dyes are less permanent than natural ones. This is usually not true; in fact, some of the most durable and valuable dyes are now made synthetically, and many can’t be sourced from plant materials. Most of the cheaper dyes made from coal tar are not very durable; they fade when exposed to sunlight or water, or both. They are frequently cheapened further by being mixed with salt, dextrin, and similar substances. These are the colors typically sold by Chinese shopkeepers and have contributed to the negative reputation of synthetic dyes in the Philippines. Many of these "Chino dyes" contain 95 percent salt. However, it is believed that high-quality synthetic dyes, when packaged and sold in ways that make them affordable for dyers and weavers, will largely replace the use of the plant-based dyes currently used in the Philippines. The decline of natural dyes wouldn’t be missed here, as much finer colors can be achieved with synthetic dyes, both in terms of beauty and durability—except perhaps for those derived from sabutan straw in Tanay. Considering the workers’ time, the vegetable dyes currently used in the Philippines are more expensive than the synthetic ones, even though the latter are often sold in very small packages and go through several markups before reaching the users.1
1 The Bureau of Education has taken steps to procure a series of dyes suited to each one of the mat straws and other important fibers used in household industries and industrial instruction in the Philippines.
1 The Bureau of Education has taken action to obtain a selection of dyes that are suitable for each type of mat straw and other essential fibers used in home industries and vocational training in the Philippines.
Dyeing.
The process of dyeing is simple. The fluid is prepared in water (usually boiling), and the material is immersed in it. The shade of color obtained depends on the length of time the material is allowed to remain in the fluid or the number of times it is treated, and the strength of the dye. The combination of two different dyes to obtain a third is understood to some extent. In particular, red and yellow are mixed to obtain orange. [13]
The process of dyeing is straightforward. The dye is mixed with water (typically boiling), and the material is soaked in it. The color achieved depends on how long the material stays in the dye or how many times it is processed, as well as the strength of the dye. It’s somewhat understood how to combine two different dyes to create a third color. For example, mixing red and yellow results in orange. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Suggestions on the Use of Colors in Mats.
Standard Colors.
The three primary colors are red, blue, and yellow. The three secondary colors are obtained by combination of the three primary colors, and are orange, green, and violet. Orange is made by a combination of yellow and red, green is a combination of blue and yellow, and violet is the combination of red and blue. Most of the dye materials explained in the preceding pages do not produce standard colors and so, when combined, do not result in the expected secondary color. Often those called red are, in point of fact, red-violet (see Plate III). Sometimes, also, dyes called yellow are yellow-orange. A mixture of yellow-orange and red-violet would produce a muddy color. Dye called green may be really blue-green or yellow-green, and combined with red, will make a muddy color.
The three primary colors are red, blue, and yellow. The three secondary colors you get by mixing the primary colors are orange, green, and violet. Orange comes from mixing yellow and red, green is created by mixing blue and yellow, and violet is made by combining red and blue. Most of the dye materials discussed earlier don’t produce standard colors, so when mixed, they don't create the expected secondary color. Often, dyes labeled as red are actually red-violet (see Plate III). Sometimes, dyes called yellow are actually yellow-orange. A mix of yellow-orange and red-violet will result in a muddy color. Dyes labeled as green may actually be blue-green or yellow-green, and when mixed with red, they will create a muddy color.
The above remarks on standard complementary colors are only valid for pure colors and it is only by much experimentation that pleasing tones can be obtained by a combination of the dyes used on straws in the Philippines.
The comments above about standard complementary colors only apply to pure colors, and it's through extensive experimentation that attractive tones can be achieved by mixing the dyes used on straws in the Philippines.
How to Tone Down Brilliant Colors.
Many of the colors used in Philippine mats are very brilliant. A little brilliantly colored straw, properly combined with subdued colors such as gray or one of the natural colors of Philippine straws, is pleasing, but the abundant use of brilliant straws, such as are sometimes seen in mats of solid color, is to be discouraged.
Many of the colors used in Philippine mats are very vibrant. A little bit of brightly colored straw, mixed well with muted tones like gray or one of the natural colors of Philippine straws, is appealing, but excessive use of bright straws, like those sometimes seen in solid-colored mats, should be avoided.
All brilliant colors may be subdued by adding to them their complementary color. Thus a brilliant red may be subdued by adding to it a small amount of green and in the same way brilliant green may be toned down by mixing with it a small portion of red. If too much of the complementary color is added the result will be gray. As will be seen, all complementary colors will subdue one another. In Plate III the principal colors have been so arranged that the complementary colors are directly opposite each other and are connected by lines. Any two colors connected by lines on this chart will tone down each other and, if mixed in proper proportions, will result in gray.
All bright colors can be toned down by adding their complementary color. For example, a bright red can be softened by mixing in a little green, and likewise, a bright green can be muted by blending it with a small amount of red. If too much of the complementary color is added, the outcome will be gray. As you can see, all complementary colors will neutralize each other. In Plate III, the main colors are arranged so that complementary colors face each other directly and are linked by lines. Any two colors connected by lines on this chart will tone each other down and, if mixed in the right amounts, will produce gray.
It is probable that any straw which has been dyed too brilliant, can be closely matched to one of the colors given on Plate III. Consequently its complement can be determined and, by experimentation, the brilliant color toned down. Usually only an exceedingly small amount of its complement is needed to tone down a given color. [14]
It’s likely that any straw that has been dyed too brightly can be closely matched to one of the colors listed on Plate III. As a result, its complementary color can be identified, and through experimentation, the bright color can be toned down. Usually, only a very small amount of its complementary color is needed to tone down a given color. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Color Combination.
In general, too many different colors appear in the Philippine mats, and most of these are brilliant. It is often true that a large amount of a given brilliant color is offensive to the eye, and yet the addition of a little of it greatly enhances the beauty of the mat. Often color combinations are not harmonious. Particularly bad effects are obtained with red-violet and yellow or yellow-orange. Red-violet with blue-green is another unfortunate combination.
In general, there are way too many different colors in Philippine mats, and most of them are really bright. It's often the case that a lot of a bright color can be jarring, but just a little bit of it really boosts the beauty of the mat. Often, the color combinations don’t work well together. Particularly bad effects happen with red-violet and yellow or yellow-orange. Red-violet and blue-green is another unfortunate mix.
Certain rules have been set down for combination of colors: (1) A given color with its tints and shades1 may always be safely combined; (2) complementary colors may always be safely combined; (3) the tints and shades of complementary colors may always be safely combined; (4) any three colors occurring in sequence on the color chart may be combined in that sequence.
Certain rules have been established for combining colors: (1) A specific color along with its tints and shades1 can always be safely combined; (2) complementary colors can always be safely combined; (3) the tints and shades of complementary colors can always be safely combined; (4) any three colors that appear in sequence on the color chart can be combined in that order.
The following notes on the use and combination of the colored straws from Tanay, Rizal, and from Romblon, and those shown on the charts accompanying the dyes of Leopold Cassela & Co., are given. The figures refer to the numbers given the colored straws on these charts. These dyes were evolved for the Bureau of Education especially for Philippine mat straws and will soon be available in the market. The notes have been prepared in accordance with the rules above outlined, and, if they are followed closely, no unfortunate color combination can result.
The following notes on using and combining the colored straws from Tanay, Rizal, and from Romblon, as well as those shown on the charts with you the dyes from Leopold Cassela & Co., are provided. The figures refer to the numbers assigned to the colored straws on these charts. These dyes were developed for the Bureau of Education specifically for Philippine mat straws and will soon be available on the market. The notes have been prepared following the rules outlined above, and if they are closely followed, no unfortunate color combinations should occur.
Colors Obtained from the New Dyes.
The sample straws on these charts are made with the following dyestuffs:
The sample straws on these charts are made with the following dyes:
Colors. | Numbers on chart. | Dyestuffs. |
Yellow Yellow-Orange | No. 1 | Paraphosphine G. |
Violet | No. 2 | Methylviolett BB 72 No. 1. |
Brown | No. 3 | Rush Brown B. |
Orange Red-Red | No. 4 | Rush Red S A. |
Yellow-Green | No. 5 | Rush Green T B. |
Blue-Violet | No. 6 | New Methylene Blue R. |
Red-Violet | No. 7 | Magenta Prima. |
Black | No. 8 | Rush Black M. |
Chocolate | No. 9 | Rush Brown X. |
Red | No. 10 | Rush Red J S. |
Yellow Orange-Yellow | No. 11 | Auramine II. |
Blue-Green | No. 12 | Japan Green. |
Red Violet-Violet | No. 13 | Methylviolett R No. 1. |
Red-Orange | No. 14 | Chrysoidine A G. |
Blue Blue-Green | No. 15 | New Methylene Blue N. |
Violet Red-Red | No. 16 | Safranine S 150. |
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Complementary or opposite colors on the color chart are said to be harmonious. Their relation is made more pleasing, however, if one color, usually the more brilliant, is used in very small amount. In many cases in the above combinations colors not exactly opposite have been united. They usually contain a mixture of a primary color common to both. Brown, Black, Chocolate, and Dark Red are complicated mixtures and may be analyzed with a chart which will appear later. Many of these dark colors would harmonize with one another, but would be so dark that they would not be pleasing. In every one of these combinations, the natural straw background figures as another color, and that is why the especially good combinations, as will be noticed, contain browns, yellows and reds, colors which blend particularly well with the background. Red-Violet No. 7 can be used with only a very few colors, and never with Yellow Yellow-Orange No. 1. Yellow Yellow-Orange should be used cautiously.
Complementary or contrasting colors on the color chart are considered harmonious. However, their relationship becomes more pleasing if one color, typically the brighter one, is used in very small amounts. In many cases mentioned above, colors that aren't exactly opposite are combined. They usually have a mix of a primary color that is shared by both. Brown, Black, Chocolate, and Dark Red are complex mixtures and can be analyzed with a chart that will be shown later. Many of these dark colors could work well together, but they would be so dark that they might not be visually appealing. In each of these combinations, the natural straw background acts as an additional color, which is why particularly good combinations, as will be observed, include browns, yellows, and reds—colors that blend well with the background. Red-Violet No. 7 can only be combined with very few colors, and never with Yellow Yellow-Orange No. 1. Yellow Yellow-Orange should be used carefully.
In sabutan straw, No. 1, Yellow, must be used sparingly. When used in combinations in place of No. 1, Yellow Yellow-Orange, the design should be an open one, rather than solid. Violet Red-Red, No. 16, when being used in place of Red, No. 10, must be used in the same way, and only in places where very, very little is called for. No. 11 is a color that clashes with even a natural straw, so is not advisable in any combination or alone. No. 13 is not a necessary color when No. 2 and No. 6 are available.
In sabutan straw, No. 1, Yellow, should be used sparingly. When it's used in combinations instead of No. 1, Yellow Yellow-Orange, the design should be open rather than solid. Violet Red-Red, No. 16, when substituting for Red, No. 10, must be applied the same way, and only in areas where very little is needed. No. 11 is a color that clashes with even natural straw, so it’s not recommended in any combination or by itself. No. 13 is unnecessary when No. 2 and No. 6 are available.
In placing the color upon the space to be decorated, the heavier colors should usually appear on the outside and near the edge of the space, although a border may sometimes be outlined with darker color on both inside and outside edges.
In applying color to the area that will be decorated, the darker colors should typically be placed on the outside and near the edge of the space, although a border can sometimes be defined with a darker color on both the inside and outside edges.
The following combinations of these colored straws will prove harmonious. The numbers correspond to those used on the chart and the different kinds of type indicate the proportions of the color to be used—little, Medium Amount, MUCH. The relative positions of the colors must also be observed and the given order followed when more than two colors are combined.
The following combinations of these colored straws will be harmonious. The numbers match those on the chart, and the different types indicate how much of each color to use—little, Medium Amount, MUCH. You also need to pay attention to the relative positions of the colors and follow the specified order when combining more than two colors.
Brown (3) Yellow-Yellow Orange (1). Especially good.
Brown (3) Yellow-Yellow Orange (1). Especially good.
Black (8) Yellow-Yellow Orange (1).
Black (8) Yellow-Yellow Orange (1).
Chocolate (9) Yellow-yellow Orange (1).
Chocolate (9) Yellow-orange (1).
RED-ORANGE (14) CHOCOLATE (9) Yellow-Yellow Orange(1). In this case, the heavy color, 9, comes in the center of the design, but is necessary to separate Nos. 14 and 1.
RED-ORANGE (14) CHOCOLATE (9) Yellow-Yellow Orange(1). In this case, the dominant color, 9, is positioned in the center of the design but is needed to separate Nos. 14 and 1.
VIOLET (2) BLUE-GREEN (12) Red-Orange (14). [16]
VIOLET (2) BLUE-GREEN (12) Red-Orange (14). [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Violet (2) Red-Orange (14) Blue-Blue Green (15).
Violet (2) Red-Orange (14) Blue-Teal (15).
Brown (3) alone on natural background.
Brown (3) alone on neutral background.
Brown (3) Yellow-Green (5). Especially good.
Brown (3) Yellow-Green (5). Really good.
Brown (3) BLUE-GREEN (12).
Brown (3) Teal (12).
BROWN (3) RED-ORANGE (14) Red (16).
BROWN (3) RED-ORANGE (14) Red (16).
Brown (3) Red-Orange (14). Especially good.
Brown (3) Red-Orange (14). Really good.
Brown (3) BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Red-Orange (14). Especially good.
Brown (3) BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Red-Orange (14). Really great.
Brown (3) RED (16). In sabutan straw, use No. 4 or 10 in place of No. 16.
Brown (3) RED (16). In sabutan straw, use No. 4 or 10 instead of No. 16.
Black (8) Brown (3) Red-Orange (14). Especially good.
Black (8) Brown (3) Red-Orange (14). Really good.
ORANGE-RED RED (4) Blue-Green (12). Use No. 15 instead of 12 with sabutan.
ORANGE-RED RED (4) Blue-Green (12). Use No. 15 instead of 12 with sabutan.
BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) BLUE-GREEN (12) Orange-Red Red (4). Especially good.
BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) BLUE-GREEN (12) Orange-Red Red (4). Really good.
Black (8) ORANGE-RED RED (4). Especially good.
Black (8) ORANGE-RED RED (4). Really impressive.
YELLOW-GREEN (5) BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Red-Orange (14).
YELLOW-GREEN (5) BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Red-Orange (14).
RED-VIOLET (7) BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Yellow-Green (5). Especially good.
RED-VIOLET (7) BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Yellow-Green (5). Really great.
Black (8) Yellow-Green (5). Use this combination with an open design (not solid), and do not use much of each.
Black (8) Yellow-Green (5). Use this combo with an open design (not solid), and don't use too much of either color.
BLUE-GREEN (12) Yellow-Green (5).
AQUA (12) LIME (5).
BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Yellow Green (5).
BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Yellow Green (5).
Blue-Violet (6). On a natural ground.
Blue-Violet (6). On natural ground.
Blue-Violet (6) Red-Orange (14).
Blue-Violet (6) Red-Orange (14).
Chocolate (9) Blue-Green (12) Red-Orange (14). Especially good.
Chocolate (9) Blue-Green (12) Red-Orange (14). Really good.
Chocolate (9) BLUE-GREEN (12) Red-Orange (14). Especially good.
Chocolate (9) BLUE-GREEN (12) Red-Orange (14). Super good.
Blue-Blue Green (15) Red-Orange (14). Especially good.
Blue-Blue Green (15) Red-Orange (14). Really good.
BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Red (16).
BLUE-BLUE GREEN (15) Red (16).
Romblon Buri Vegetable Colors.
- 1—Black.
- 2—Gray-green.
- 3—Natural.
- 4—Orange.
- 5—Dark red.
In Romblon buri straw the following combinations will be harmonious:
In Romblon buri straw, the following combinations will work well together:
Nos. 1, 2 and 3 in accordance with Rule 4. Nos. 2, 3 and 4 in accordance with Rule 4. [17]
Nos. 1, 2, and 3 according to Rule 4. Nos. 2, 3, and 4 according to Rule 4. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Exception to Rule 2: No. 5 is inharmonious with No. 4.
Exception to Rule 2: No. 5 doesn't go well with No. 4.
It will be noticed that these colors depend for their harmony on their order or sequence and their quantity (in this case equal parts of all three). No. 3 being a neutral color, great quantities of it may be used with any other colors. There is danger, however, in getting too much of one of the other two colors. No. 4 is a very strong color and a little will be pleasing while much will be offensive. It is not well to use it alone on a ground of No. 3. No. 5 may be used alone with a ground of No. 3; No. 1 with a ground of No. 3; No. 2 with a ground of No. 3; No. 3 with a ground of No. 2; Nos. 1 and 3 on a ground of No. 2, with a very small quantity of No. 1; equal proportions of Nos. 1 and 4 may be combined on a ground of No. 3; Nos. 2 and 4 on a ground of No. 3, a very small quantity of No. 4 being used.
It’s important to note that these colors rely on their order, sequence, and the amount used (in this case, equal parts of all three). No. 3 is a neutral color, so you can use a lot of it with any other colors. However, be cautious about using too much of either of the other two colors. No. 4 is a very strong color, and while a little can look good, too much will be overwhelming. It’s not advisable to use it alone on a No. 3 background. No. 5 can be used alone on a No. 3 background; No. 1 can be used with a No. 3 background; No. 2 can be used on a No. 3 background; No. 3 can be paired with a No. 2 background; Nos. 1 and 3 can work on a No. 2 background, with just a small amount of No. 1; equal amounts of Nos. 1 and 4 can be combined on a No. 3 background; and Nos. 2 and 4 can be used on a No. 3 background, using a *very* small amount of No. 4.

Plate III. Color Chart.
Plate III. Color Palette.
Tanay Sabutan Colors (Mostly Vegetable).
- 1—Black.
- 2—Blue-green.
- 3—Natural.
- 4—Yellow.
- 5—Red-orange.
- 6—Red-orange red.
It will be necessary to use No. 3 on a ground work. Mats made entirely of any of the other colors would hardly be harmonious on a floor or wall, if there were any other furnishings. Nos. 1, 2, 5 and 6 may be used separately upon a ground of No. 3; No. 2 in large quantity; No. 1 in small ground of No. 3; No. 2 in equal quantity with No. 5 upon a ground of No. 3; No. 5 in equal quantity with No. 6 upon a ground of No. 3; No. 6 in large quantity, with No. 2 in small quantity, upon a ground of No. 3; No. 5 in large quantity, with No. 1 small, on a ground of No. 3.
It will be necessary to use No. 3 as a base. Mats made entirely of any of the other colors wouldn't really match well on a floor or wall if there are other furnishings. Nos. 1, 2, 5, and 6 can be used separately on a base of No. 3; No. 2 in large amounts; No. 1 in small amounts on a base of No. 3; No. 2 in equal amounts with No. 5 on a base of No. 3; No. 5 in equal amounts with No. 6 on a base of No. 3; No. 6 in large amounts, with No. 2 in small amounts, on a base of No. 3; No. 5 in large amounts, with No. 1 in small amounts, on a base of No. 3.
Stripping Mat Straws.
Philippine mat straws can be divided into three classes—palm straws, pandan straws, and straws obtained from sedges. The first two are obtained by stripping the leaves of the plants into narrow lengths. For this purpose there is used in most localities a small gauge held between the thumb and index fingers. A knife blade fitting in the notches serves as the cutting edge. The leaf is held in one hand and the gauge and knife in the other, the edge of the leaf being drawn through the gauge. This is generally made out of the stiff part of the leaf, though, [19]occasionally, of a piece of rattan, bamboo or leather. At best it serves for only a few hours of use, when it is thrown away and another made.
Philippine mat straws can be categorized into three types—palm straws, pandan straws, and straws made from sedges. The first two are created by slicing the leaves of the plants into narrow strips. To do this, a small gauge is commonly used, held between the thumb and index fingers. A knife blade that fits into the notches acts as the cutting edge. One hand holds the leaf while the other holds the gauge and knife, drawing the edge of the leaf through the gauge. This is usually made from the stiff part of the leaf, although it can also be made from a piece of rattan, bamboo, or leather. Generally, it lasts for only a few hours before being discarded and replaced with a new one.

Plate V. Stripping with a gauge.
Plate V. Stripping with a gauge.
When the notch becomes worn, the blade moves about in the gauge, causing the width of the straws to vary, and when a new gauge is made there is always more or less variance in the position of the new notches. This method is very slow, as but one strip can be cut at a time; and, until the operator becomes expert in the use of the gauge, many of the strips are worthless. When used in the school room, each pupil has to prepare his own material. This causes waste of materials and a constant littering of the floor.
When the notch wears down, the blade shifts in the gauge, causing the width of the straws to change. Whenever a new gauge is made, there's always some variation in the position of the new notches. This method is pretty slow since only one strip can be cut at a time, and until the operator gets good at using the gauge, many of the strips end up being useless. In the classroom, every student has to prepare their own materials, which leads to wasted supplies and a mess on the floor.
For stripping sabutan leaves, the mat weavers of Tanay, Rizal, use a kind of comb which is discussed under the heading “Sabutan.” The leaves are pulled over this comb before being dried. As sabutan is parallel veined it is very easy to strip it thus, the teeth of the comb following the leaf fibers. The comb produces several uniform straws with one stroke.
For stripping sabutan leaves, the mat weavers of Tanay, Rizal, use a type of comb discussed under the heading “Sabutan.” The leaves are pulled over this comb before being dried. Since sabutan has parallel veins, it's very easy to strip it this way, with the teeth of the comb following the leaf fibers. The comb produces several uniform straws in one go.

Plate VI. Stripping buri straw with the Andes stripper.
Plate VI. Removing buri straw with the Andes stripper.
The object of contriving the stripping machine illustrated and described here was to furnish a quick means of preparing palm and pandan straws with uniform widths and clean cut edges. Forms of it have been in use for some time and the model noted here has been tried out for a year. By its use one pupil can prepare materials for the whole class, or else the [20]teacher can have all the materials prepared beforehand if it is so desired. This is half the problem of teaching the weaving of hats or mats.
The purpose of the stripping machine shown and described here is to provide a fast way to prepare palm and pandan straws with consistent widths and clean edges. Variations of this machine have been used for a while, and the model mentioned here has been tested for a year. With this machine, one student can prepare materials for the entire class, or the [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]teacher can prepare all the materials in advance if needed. This makes up half the challenge of teaching how to weave hats or mats.
This stripper is made wide enough for inserting teeth three widths apart, so that without adjusting these teeth three widths of straw may be cut. By changing the teeth in the adjustable gums, any width desired may be obtained.
This stripper is designed wide enough to fit teeth spaced three widths apart, allowing three widths of straw to be cut without needing to adjust the teeth. By switching out the teeth in the adjustable gums, you can achieve any desired width.
It is best to make this apparatus of hard wood, especially the piece represented by Fig. A. A is a block of wood 23 cm. by 4 cm. by 4 cm., containing the groove XY. This groove is the size and shape of C, being 2.5 cm. wide at the top, 1.5 cm. at the bottom, and 3 cm. high. C is one of the blocks which slides in the groove XY. These blocks are made of different thicknesses, about 2, 3, and 4 mm., and are of hard wood or metal. The rod B passes through these blocks and tightens on the block D or X by means of a thumb screw. Z is a wooden roller 19 cm. long and 1.5 cm. in diameter. This should extend 2 mm. below the level of the main surface. It is placed in a groove made in a separate piece of wood from the principal block and is fastened into the principal block by means of screws.
It’s best to make this device from hardwood, especially the part shown in Fig. A. A is a wooden block measuring 23 cm by 4 cm by 4 cm, which has the groove XY. This groove matches the size and shape of C, measuring 2.5 cm wide at the top, 1.5 cm at the bottom, and 3 cm high. C is one of the blocks that slides in the groove XY. These blocks come in different thicknesses, approximately 2, 3, and 4 mm, and are made of hardwood or metal. The rod B goes through these blocks and tightens on the block D or X using a thumb screw. Z is a wooden roller that is 19 cm long and 1.5 cm in diameter. It should extend 2 mm below the main surface. It’s placed in a groove created in a separate piece of wood from the main block and is secured to the main block with screws.
The teeth (see C) are made of clock springs or other thin sharp metal. They are 3 cm. long and 1 cm. to 1½ cm. wide. The two upright pieces at both ends contain grooves on the inside in which the block-head slides up and down.
The teeth (see C) are made of clock springs or other thin sharp metal. They are 3 cm long and 1 cm to 1.5 cm wide. The two upright pieces at both ends have grooves on the inside where the block-head slides up and down.
To operate this device, the block-head containing the teeth is raised by the handle; the leaf is placed under the teeth, and the block-head is dropped. The teeth pass through the leaf into a groove underneath. The leaf is now pulled through by the hand as illustrated in Plate VI.
To use this device, lift the block-head with the teeth using the handle; place the leaf under the teeth, and then drop the block-head. The teeth go through the leaf into a groove below. Now, pull the leaf through by hand as shown in Plate VI.
Kinds of Weaves.
With respect to their weaving, Philippine mats divide themselves into six groups and are here arranged according to their difficulty. They are (1) the over and under weave found in most simple mats, such as those made of buri straws, pandan straws, and sedges; (2) the sawali weaves, which employ the floating straws for making “woven in” designs and panels for figured sabutan and tikug mats; (3) the open work weaves of the Romblon buri mats; (4) the circular mats which employ the hat weaves, either with or without “woven in” designs; (5) the hexagonal weave; and (6) the embroidered mats in which the designs are later added. In difficulty, and in place in a course of instruction, embroidered mats follow the simple over and under weave. [21]
Regarding their weaving, Philippine mats are categorized into six groups and are arranged here by their complexity. They are (1) the over-and-under weave found in most basic mats, such as those made from buri straws, pandan straws, and sedges; (2) the sawali weaves, which use floating straws to create “woven-in” designs and panels for patterned sabutan and tikug mats; (3) the open-work weaves of the Romblon buri mats; (4) the circular mats that use hat weaves, with or without “woven-in” designs; (5) the hexagonal weave; and (6) the embroidered mats, where designs are added later. In terms of difficulty and placement in a course of study, embroidered mats come after the simple over-and-under weave. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate VII.
Plate 7.
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Plate VIII.
Plate 8.
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Plate IX.
Plate 9.
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Over-and-Under Weave.
This weave is the simplest and is the one which beginners should first take up. It is made by weaving over one and under one continuously. Until this is thoroughly mastered children should not be allowed to begin the more difficult weaves.
This weave is the easiest and is the one that beginners should start with. It’s done by weaving over one and under one continuously. Until this is fully mastered, children should not be allowed to try the more complicated weaves.
The steps have been diagrammed in figures sufficiently large and clear in Plates VII, VIII, and IX that a detailed explanation is not necessary. Step 1 shows the position of the first four straws as they are placed upon the table or desk; steps 2, 3, 4, and 5, continued additions and weaving; steps 6, 7, and 8, turning the edge a on the end of the mat; step 9, turning the opposite edge c; step 10, the double turn of the corner straw; step 11, the corner turn woven in the mat at corner No. 1, lapping over the straw already woven; step 12, the continuation of the second edge b; step 13, the turning of the second and third corners; and steps 14 and 15, finishing the mat.
The steps have been illustrated in figures that are large and clear enough in Plates VII, VIII, and IX that a detailed explanation isn't necessary. Step 1 shows how to position the first four straws on the table or desk; steps 2, 3, 4, and 5 show the ongoing additions and weaving; steps 6, 7, and 8 detail turning the edge a at the end of the mat; step 9 covers turning the opposite edge c; step 10 shows the double turn of the corner straw; step 11 involves weaving the corner turn into the mat at corner No. 1, overlapping the previously woven straw; step 12 continues with the second edge b; step 13 explains turning the second and third corners; and steps 14 and 15 wrap up the mat.
In weaving large mats, it is customary to begin at one end of the mat, preferably near the left-hand corner as the mat lies before the weaver. The weaving continues along the end until half of the desired width of the mat is reached, when the first corner is turned. Now the weaving continues down the side and in, as far as the middle of the mat. When the desired length is woven, the second corner is turned and the first half of the mat completed.
In making large mats, it's usual to start at one end of the mat, ideally near the left corner as the mat is positioned in front of the weaver. The weaving goes along the end until half of the desired width is achieved, at which point the first corner is turned. Then, the weaving continues down the side and in, reaching the middle of the mat. Once the desired length is completed, the second corner is turned, finishing the first half of the mat.
As the straws are not generally long enough without splicing, new straws are now added by lapping them from two to three inches upon the projecting ends of the straws already woven. This makes a narrow strip of double thickness down the center running the length of the mat. The weaving now continues as before until the desired width of the mat is attained, when the third corner is turned. The remainder is woven and finished at the fourth corner as shown by steps 14 and 15.
As the straws usually aren't long enough without splicing, new straws are now added by overlapping them two to three inches onto the ends of the straws that are already woven. This creates a narrow strip of double thickness down the center that runs the length of the mat. Weaving continues as before until the desired width of the mat is reached, at which point the third corner is turned. The rest is woven and finished at the fourth corner, as shown in steps 14 and 15.
Some weavers begin at the sides, and some few, even at the corners; but this should not be encouraged since it results in making two or more seams, where the straws lap.
Some weavers start at the sides, and a few even at the corners; but this shouldn't be encouraged since it creates two or more seams where the straws overlap.
Care must be taken to weave all parts of the mat equally close and keep the edges perfectly straight; otherwise the mat when finished will be lop-sided, and consequently of no value. In weaving tapering grasses like tikug, which have ends of slightly different sizes, the opposite ends of the straws should be alternated. This prevents one edge of a mat from building faster than the other. [25]
Care needs to be taken to weave all parts of the mat evenly and keep the edges perfectly straight; otherwise, the finished mat will be uneven and, therefore, worthless. When weaving tapering grasses like tikug, which have ends of slightly different sizes, the opposite ends of the straws should be alternated. This ensures that one edge of the mat doesn't outgrow the other. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate X.
Plate X.
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Plate XI.
Plate 11.
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Sawali Weaves.
Simple Sawali.
By sawali weave is meant all “woven in” designs that are not woven by ones as in the over and under weave. They may be woven regularly by twos, threes, etc.; or they may “switch” the floating straws so as to form a variety of artistic figure designs. In fact, there is no limit to the number of designs that may be thus made.
By sawali weave, we mean all the designs that are "woven in" and are not done using the over-and-under method. They can be woven regularly in groups of two, three, or more; or the floating straws can be "switched" around to create a variety of artistic patterns. In fact, there’s no limit to the number of designs that can be created this way.
Steps 1 and 2 illustrate the beginning of a sawali weave by twos. First 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are laid down; then c is put under 1–2, over 3–4, and under 5; d over 1, under 2–3, and over 4–5; e over 1–2, under 3–4, and over 5. This process is continued, advancing one straw each time until the desired amount is woven. If the weaving is by threes or fours, the same principle is followed; that is, the straw goes over three and under three, advancing one straw each time.
Steps 1 and 2 show how to start a sawali weave by twos. First, lay down 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5; then put c under 1–2, over 3–4, and under 5; d goes over 1, under 2–3, and over 4–5; e goes over 1–2, under 3–4, and over 5. Keep repeating this process, moving one straw each time until you’ve woven the desired amount. If you're weaving by threes or fours, follow the same principle: the straw goes over three and under three, moving one straw each time.
Panels.
Most “woven in” mat designs are arranged in panels, with a ground between, as this gives a more pleasing effect than a continuous figure weaving. Panels may be woven either length-wise (step 8), crosswise (step 8), diagonally across the mat (step 4), or in zigzags (step 3). They are most easily woven when arranged diagonally, for then the colors may be carried from border to border without mixing with the ground outside of the panel. Checks are made by weaving cross panels at regular intervals.
Most “woven in” mat designs are set up in panels, with space in between, since this creates a more attractive look than a continuous pattern. Panels can be woven either lengthwise (step 8), crosswise (step 8), diagonally across the mat (step 4), or in zigzags (step 3). They’re easiest to weave when arranged diagonally, as this allows the colors to go from one border to the other without blending with the background outside of the panel. Checks are created by weaving cross panels at regular intervals.
In making parallel panels (panels parallel either to the sides or ends), more than two colors can rarely be used to advantage.
In creating parallel panels (panels that run parallel to the sides or ends), it's uncommon to effectively use more than two colors.
Step 3 illustrates the weaving of a zigzag sawali panel. The straws, a, b, k, and l are woven by ones. It takes twelve straws one way and nine the other to make this panel. If a wider panel is desired, the same weaving is repeated as often as necessary.
Step 3 shows how to weave a zigzag sawali panel. The straws, a, b, k, and l are woven one by one. It takes twelve straws in one direction and nine in the other to create this panel. If you want a wider panel, just repeat the same weaving as many times as needed.

Plate XII.
Plate 12.
The straws a, b, k, and l are woven by ones. Put l over b and c, under de, over fg, under hi and over j. Put 2 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij and over k. Put 3 over b, under c, over de, under fg, over hi and under jk. Put 4 under bcd, over ef, under gh and over ijk. Put 5 over bc, under de, over fg, under hi and over j. Put 6 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij and over k. Put 7 over b, under c, over de, under fg, over hi, under jk. Put 8 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij and over k. Put 9 over bc, under de, over [29]fg, under hi and over j. Put 10 under bcd, over ef, under gh and over ijk. Put 11 over b, under c, over de, under fg, over hi and under jk. Put 12 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij and over k. Then the whole operation is again repeated. It will be seen that the manner of weaving 2 and 12, 3 and 11, 4 and 10, and 5 and 9 is the same.
The straws a, b, k, and l are woven together by ones. Place l over b and c, under de, over fg, under hi, and over j. Position 2 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij, and over k. Place 3 over b, under c, over de, under fg, over hi, and under jk. Position 4 under bcd, over ef, under gh, and over ijk. Put 5 over bc, under de, over fg, under hi, and over j. Place 6 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij, and over k. Put 7 over b, under c, over de, under fg, over hi, and under jk. Position 8 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij, and over k. Place 9 over bc, under de, over [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]fg, under hi, and over j. Position 10 under bcd, over ef, under gh, and over ijk. Put 11 over b, under c, over de, under fg, over hi, and under jk. Place 12 under b, over cd, under ef, over gh, under ij, and over k. Then the entire process is repeated. You'll notice that the weaving patterns for 2 and 12, 3 and 11, 4 and 10, and 5 and 9 are the same.
Step 4 illustrates the diamond figure design, woven by threes, with 11 straws in width.
Step 4 shows the diamond figure design, woven in threes, with 11 straws in width.

Plate XIII, fig. 1. Mat with woven-in border showing confusion in design.
Plate XIII, fig. 1. Mat with a woven border showing a chaotic design.
Put 1 under cd, over efg, under h, over ijk and under lm. Put 2 under c, over def, under ghi, over jkl and under m. Put 3 over cde, under fghij and over klm. Put 4 over cd, under efg, over h, under ijk and over lm. Put 5 over c, under def, over ghi, under jkl and over m. Put 6 under cde, over fghij and under klm. Now the order reverses, 7 being the same as 5, 8 as 4, etc., until the other half of the figure is completed at 11. Now put 12 under cde, over fghij and under klm. Put 13 over c, under def, over ghi, under jkl and over m. Put 14 under cde, over fghij and under klm. Now 1 repeats itself, and the second figure is woven as the first. It is believed that with the aid of the large illustrations here presented the teacher or pupil can now follow for himself the other designs given, without a detailed explanation of each step. [30]
Put 1 under cd, over efg, under h, over ijk and under lm. Put 2 under c, over def, under ghi, over jkl and under m. Put 3 over cde, under fghij and over klm. Put 4 over cd, under efg, over h, under ijk and over lm. Put 5 over c, under def, over ghi, under jkl and over m. Put 6 under cde, over fghij and under klm. Now the order reverses, 7 being the same as 5, 8 as 4, etc., until the other half of the figure is completed at 11. Now put 12 under cde, over fghij and under klm. Put 13 over c, under def, over ghi, under jkl and over m. Put 14 under cde, over fghij and under klm. Now 1 repeats itself, and the second figure is woven just like the first. It is believed that with the help of the large illustrations presented here, the teacher or student can now follow the other designs on their own, without needing a detailed explanation of each step. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
“Woven-in” Borders.
Woven-in border designs may be made in three different ways; viz., First, by weaving the design around the mat, using the same straws that run through the body. (See Plate XIII, Fig. 1.) In this case the color effect is one of confusion, since the dyed straws used in the designs of the body of the mat have no relation to the design of the border when they enter it. Second, by weaving the border and the body of the mat of different straws, uniting them at the inner edge of the border by a loop as described in the Romblon mat. (See Plate XVI.) Third, by lapping the colored straws desired in the border, upon the projecting ends of the straws of the body of the mat. (See step 8, Plate XII.) These latter two methods are much more artistic, as a uniform color effect appears throughout the border. (See Plate XIII, Fig. 2.)
Woven border designs can be created in three different ways: First, by weaving the design around the mat with the same straws that go through the main part. (See Plate XIII, Fig. 1.) In this case, the color effect can be confusing since the dyed straws used in the main part of the mat don’t relate to the border design when they enter it. Second, by using different straws for the border and the main part of the mat, connecting them at the inner edge of the border with a loop, as seen in the Romblon mat. (See Plate XVI.) Third, by laying the colored straws intended for the border over the ends of the main straws of the mat. (See step 8, Plate XII.) The last two methods are much more artistic, as they create a uniform color effect across the border. (See Plate XIII, Fig. 2.)

Plate XIII, fig. 2. Mat with woven-in design made by lapping straws.
Plate XIII, fig. 2. Mat with a woven design created by overlapping straws.
The Romblon Mat.
Making Open Work.
Weave corner Z, using straws a, b, c, d, e and f, letting f float at both ends. Weave g, turning upward and over f, then making a double corner at y, passing under f, to the left and over f, and [31]let float. Weave h, i, j, k, l and m in solid weave. Turn h under i and over j. Turn j upward and over i, to the left under f, upward over g, double corner at W, passing down under g, over g, and floating. Turn m upward over l to the left, under i, upward over f, to the left under g, upward over j making a double corner at X, passing under j. The straws j and m alternately cross each other to corner V.
Weave corner Z using straws a, b, c, d, e and f, allowing f to float at both ends. Weave g, turning upward and over f, then create a double corner at y, passing under f, to the left and over f, and [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]let it float. Weave h, i, j, k, l, and m in a solid weave. Turn h under i and over j. Turn j upward and over i, to the left under f, upward over g, double corner at W, passing down under g, over g, and floating. Turn m upward over l to the left, under i, upward over f, to the left under g, upward over j making a double corner at X, passing under j. The straws j and m cross each other alternately to corner V.
The other half of this open design is an exact duplicate of this weaving, and the remaining designs have the same turns as the one explained, except that in opposite designs the straws are turned in opposite directions. By following this plate it is easy to finish the weaves. If one straw is woven over another, it folds down before passing over, and, vice versa, if it passes under, it folds upward in turning.
The other half of this open design is a perfect copy of this weaving, and the rest of the designs follow the same patterns as the one described, except that in the opposite designs, the straws are turned in the reverse direction. By following this guide, it's easy to finish the weaves. If one straw is woven over another, it bends down before going over, and if it goes under, it bends upward when turning.

Plate XIV.
Plate 14.
As is seen, the holes are made simply by turning the straws in the weave. The different shaped holes in other designs (see plates) are made by turning a different number of straws according to the shape desired. Varied border edges may be made by switching the straws in any direction desired. [32]
As you can see, the holes are created just by twisting the straws in the weave. The differently shaped holes in other designs (see plates) are made by twisting a different number of straws based on the desired shape. You can create various border edges by changing the direction of the straws as needed. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate XV.
Plate 15.
[33]
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Introducing Color Panel.
Step 1 of Plate XVI shows the first colored panel, straw ab placed between cd, the space between x and y having been already woven, as shown in step 11.
Step 1 of Plate XVI shows the first colored panel, straw ab placed between cd, the space between x and y having already been woven, as shown in step 11.
Step 2. Folding a to the right.
Step 2. Fold a to the right.
Step 3. Folding a under and down.
Step 3. Fold a under and down.
Step 4. Folding c over a and to left.
Step 4. Fold c over a to the left.
Step 5. Folding a over c and upward.
Step 5. Fold a over c and upward.
Step 6. Folding b under d to left.
Step 6. Fold b under d to the left.
Step 7. Folding b upward, with right twist downward.
Step 7. Fold b up while twisting the right side down.
Step 8. Folding d downward, with right twist to right.
Step 8. Fold d downward, twisting to the right.
Step 9. Folding b under d upward.
Step 9. Fold b under d upward.
Step 10. Shows addition of second straw ef woven to the right, where the same process of turning is gone through as illustrated in steps 6 to 9 inclusive. If weaving is to the left, steps 1 to 5 inclusive are repeated.
Step 10. This shows the addition of the second straw ef woven to the right, where the same process of turning is followed as shown in steps 6 to 9. If the weaving is done to the left, then steps 1 to 5 are repeated.
Step 11. Shows continued additions and weaving both to the right and left.
Step 11. Shows ongoing additions and weaving to both the right and left.
Step 12. Shows both edges of panel woven, the inside turnings being the same as those of the outer edge.
Step 12. Shows both edges of the panel woven, with the inside turns matching those of the outer edge.
Circular Mats.
The circular mat is woven like the crown of a hat, with either the radiating center or a square center radiating at the four corners. In either case, the weaver must be careful to add the proper number of straws so that the mat will be flat, and not cupped or fluted. The cupping is caused by not adding a sufficient number and the fluting by adding too many.
The circular mat is woven like a hat's crown, with either a center that radiates outward or a square center that extends to the four corners. In either situation, the weaver needs to be careful to include the right number of straws so that the mat stays flat and doesn’t curve or flare up. Curving happens when not enough straws are added, while flaring is due to adding too many.
In tightening the weaving, do not pull the added straws (Plate XIX, step 6, straw x-x) or holes will be made at the elbow. Instead, pull the longer straws that run through the center, thus making the entire weaving tight.
In tightening the weaving, don’t pull the added straws (Plate XIX, step 6, straw x-x) or you’ll create holes at the elbow. Instead, pull the longer straws that go through the center to make the entire weaving tight.
Radiating Center.
Step 1. Begin by laying down, in pairs, ab and cd perpendicular to the body. Put kl under ab and over cd. Put ij over ab and under cd.
Step 1. Start by placing ab and cd perpendicular to the body in pairs. Place kl under ab and over cd. Put ij over ab and under cd.
Step 2. Now put ef under cd and ij, and over ab and kl; then put gh over cd and ij, and under kl and ab. See that the two ends of all the straws are equidistant from the center crossing.
Step 2. Now place ef under cd and ij, and above ab and kl; then place gh above cd and ij, and below kl and ab. Make sure that the two ends of all the straws are the same distance from the center crossing.
In step 3 the straws are changed from pairs to singles as follows: Bring a over i; e over d; i over h; d over l; h over a; and l over e. [34]
In step 3, the straws are switched from pairs to singles like this: Bring a over i; e over d; i over h; d over l; h over a; and l over e. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate XVI.
Plate 16.
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Plate XVII.
Plate 17.
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Plate XVIII. Romblon mat designs showing simple open weaves.
Plate XVIII. Romblon mat designs displaying basic open weaves.
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Plate XIX.
Plate 19.
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Plate XX.
Plate XX.

Plate XXI.
Plate 21.
[39]
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Step 4. The most convenient way to perform the next process is to take all the bottom straws in the left hand and allow the top straws to float over the closed fist. Then the weaving is done with the right hand. However, for beginners the weaving may also be done on the table.
Step 4. The easiest way to perform the next step is to hold all the bottom straws in your left hand and let the top straws drape over your closed fist. Then, weave with your right hand. However, beginners can also weave on the table.
In weaving, place c under b, over a and under k; d over b and under a; g under f, over e and under b; h over f and under e; k under j, over i and under f; l over j and under i; b under c, over d and under a; a over c and under d; f under g, over h and under c; e over g and under h; j under k, over l and under g; i over k and under l; the round is then finished.
In weaving, place c under b, over a, and under k; d over b and under a; g under f, over e, and under b; h over f and under e; k under j, over i, and under f; l over j and under i; b under c, over d, and under a; a over c and under d; f under g, over h, and under c; e over g and under h; j under k, over l, and under g; i over k and under l; the round is then finished.
Step 5. This illustrates the manner of adding straws. Straw x is placed under c, over h, under g and then bent back. The bend should be in the middle of the straw.
Step 5. This shows how to add straws. Straw x is placed beneath c, above h, beneath g, and then bent back. The bend should be in the middle of the straw.
Step 6. In this the right end of the added straw x is brought down over j and under i.
Step 6. In this, the right end of the added straw x is brought down over j and under i.
Step 7 shows how to continue the additions by weaving one straw and then adding one.
Step 7 shows how to keep adding by weaving one straw and then adding another.
Step 8 shows the mat after the first round of additions has been completed. The weaving is now easy. Weave entirely around again without any additions, turning five straws each time. Then go around again weaving two and adding one, in the same manner as before, turning seven straws each time. As the diameter of the mat increases, the less often is it necessary to add. But be sure to add enough to keep the weaving close and the mat perfectly flat.
Step 8 shows the mat after the first round of additions is done. Weaving is now easy. Weave all the way around again without adding anything, turning five straws each time. Then go around again, weaving two and adding one, just like before, turning seven straws each time. As the diameter of the mat gets bigger, you won't need to add as often. But make sure to add enough to keep the weaving tight and the mat perfectly flat.
Step 9 shows how to close the edge of the mat by turning back the straws on each other. It also gives a very pretty “woven in” design for a border, which can easily be followed from the plate.
Step 9 shows how to finish the edge of the mat by folding the straws back over each other. It also provides a lovely "woven in" design for the border, which can be easily followed from the plate.
Square Center.
Steps for commencing a circular mat with a square beginning are illustrated in Plate XXI. The additions at the corner are made in the same manner as explained in the radiating center, except that each is for a fourth of a circle instead of a complete circle.
Steps for starting a circular mat with a square base are shown in Plate XXI. The additions at the corners are made the same way as described in the radiating center, except that each is for a quarter of a circle instead of a full circle.
Hexagonal Weave.
Step 1. In Plate XXIV, place straws 1 and 2 parallel; then put 3 under 2 and over 1; put 4 under 1 and over 2. [40]
Step 1. In Plate XXIV, position straws 1 and 2 side by side; then place straw 3 beneath 2 and above 1; place straw 4 beneath 1 and above 2. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate XXII. Circular mat with radiating design.
Plate XXII. Round mat with a pattern that radiates outward.

Plate XXIII. Circular mat with concentric and radiating design.
Plate XXIII. Round mat with a design that has circles and radiating patterns.
[41]
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Plate XXIV.
Plate 24.
[42]
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Plate XXV.
Plate XXV.
Step 2. Put 5 over 1 and 4 and under 2 and 3; put 6 under 1 and 4 and over 2 and 3.
Step 2. Place 5 above 1 and 4, and below 2 and 3; place 6 below 1 and 4 and above 2 and 3.
Step 3. Put a over 5 and 6 and under 1 and 2. Put b over 1, 2 and a, and under 3 and 4. Put c under a, over 4, 3, b, and under 6, 5.
Step 3. Place a above 5 and 6 and below 1 and 2. Position b above 1, 2, and a, and below 3 and 4. Set c below a, above 4, 3, b, and below 6, 5.
Step 4. Put d under b, over 6, 5, c, and under 2, 1, e. Put e under c, over 2, 1, d, under 3, 4, and over a. Put f under d, over 3, 4, e, under 5, 6, a, and over b.
Step 4. Place d beneath b, above 6, 5, c, and below 2, 1, e. Position e beneath c, above 2, 1, d, below 3, 4, and above a. Put f beneath d, above 3, 4, e, below 5, 6, a, and above b.
Step 5 is made open so as to show the triple over and under weave. Further weaving is merely a repetition of this process, as shown in step 6.
Step 5 is made open to demonstrate the triple over and under weave. Further weaving is just a repetition of this process, as shown in step 6.

Plate XXVI.
Plate XXVI.
[43]
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Plate XXVII.
Plate 27.
[44]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Step 7 shows the turning of the straws on finishing the edge of the mat.
Step 7 shows how to turn the straws while finishing the edge of the mat.
Step 8. Many designs can be made by inserting colored straws into the natural weave. Step 8 illustrates three of these embroidered designs—the star, the bar, and the diamond.
Step 8. You can create many designs by adding colored straws into the natural weave. Step 8 shows three of these embroidered designs—the star, the bar, and the diamond.
Embroidered Mats.
The embroidering of mats is easily done and the method is shown in Plate XXVI. Mats in over and under weave, of solid color (either natural or dyed), are used, and the embroidery is done with colored straws. Plate XXVII illustrates an embroidered color panel. Floral, geometrical, and conventionalized designs are discussed under the headings “Samar mats” and “Special designs.”
The process of embroidering mats is straightforward, and the technique is detailed in Plate XXVI. Mats with an over and under weave, in solid colors (either natural or dyed), are utilized, and the embroidery is created using colored straws. Plate XXVII shows an embroidered color panel. Floral, geometric, and stylized designs are covered under the sections “Samar mats” and “Special designs.”
Mat Materials.
Buri Straw.
The Buri Palm.
There are about six species of the genus Corypha in tropical Asia, but only one of these is found in the Philippines; this is Corypha elata, the buri palm.3 It is widely distributed throughout the Philippines but is most abundant in the central part of the Pampanga valley and in southern Tayabas.
There are around six species of the genus Corypha in tropical Asia, but only one is found in the Philippines: Corypha elata, the buri palm.3 It is widely spread across the Philippines but is most plentiful in the central part of the Pampanga valley and in southern Tayabas.

Plate XXVIII. Foliage of the buri palm.
Plate XXVIII. Leaves of the buri palm.
Mr. C. W. Franks, formerly Division Superintendent of Schools for Mindoro Province, had a careful estimate made by his teaching force of the stands of buri palms on the Island of Mindoro. It was found that 5,000 hectares of land on this [45]island are covered by 2,000,000 buri palms, of which 225,000, or about 12 per cent, are mature trees.
Mr. C. W. Franks, who used to be the Division Superintendent of Schools for Mindoro Province, had his teaching staff take a detailed survey of the buri palms on the Island of Mindoro. They found that 5,000 hectares of land on this [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]island are covered by 2,000,000 buri palms, of which 225,000, or about 12 percent, are mature trees.
The Island of Burias, the Isla Verde, and other small islands are fairly covered with the palm. The Province of Sorsogon, including the Island of Masbate, is also well supplied. In the Visayas there are districts in Panay, Negros, Cebu, and Bohol, where many buri trees are found.
The Island of Burias, Isla Verde, and other small islands are mostly filled with palm trees. The Province of Sorsogon, including the Island of Masbate, has plenty as well. In the Visayas, there are areas in Panay, Negros, Cebu, and Bohol where a lot of buri trees can be found.
The buri is the largest palm that grows in the Philippines, attaining a height of 20 meters. Its trunk is very erect, spirally ridged and up to 0.7 meter in diameter. Its wood is of no commercial value.
The buri is the tallest palm in the Philippines, reaching up to 20 meters high. Its trunk is straight, spirally ridged, and can be as wide as 0.7 meters in diameter. Its wood doesn't have any commercial value.
The full-grown leaves may be three meters long. They are spherical in outline and the lower one-third or one-half is entire, like the palm of the hand. The upper part is divided into from 80 to 100 segments each from 1.5 to 6 cm. wide and appearing like fingers spread apart. The petioles supporting the leaves are about 3 meters long and 20 cm. thick, and are provided with long, stout, curved spines. Both margins and spines are black in color. At flowering time all the leaves are shed. The young leaf grows out from the top of the palm with the segments pressed together in the form of a lance.
The fully grown leaves can be up to three meters long. They have a round shape, with the lower one-third or one-half being smooth, similar to the palm of a hand. The upper part is divided into 80 to 100 segments, each measuring between 1.5 and 6 cm wide, resembling fingers that are spread apart. The petioles that support the leaves are about three meters long and 20 cm thick, featuring long, strong, curved spines. Both the edges and spines are black. During the flowering period, all the leaves fall off. The new leaf grows from the top of the palm, with the segments tightly pressed together, forming a lance shape.
The buri flowers and fruits but once and then dies. This is said to occur when the plant is from 25 to 40 years old. The individual flowers are greenish-white in color and only from 5 to 6 mm. in diameter. They are nevertheless perfect flowers, with calyx, corolla, and ovary showing plainly a division into threes, and stamens six in number. Thousands of these flowers occur on the large, terminal, much branched, pyramidal inflorescence [47]which may grow to be 7 meters in height. The lower branches of this inflorescence may be as much as 3.5 meters long, the upper shorter, the highest about one meter in length.
The buri plant flowers and bears fruit only once before it dies. This usually happens when the plant is between 25 and 40 years old. The individual flowers are greenish-white and measure only 5 to 6 mm in diameter. Despite their size, they are complete flowers, with a calyx, corolla, and ovary distinctly divided into threes, and there are six stamens. Thousands of these flowers appear on the large, terminal, highly branched, pyramidal inflorescence [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__], which can reach up to 7 meters in height. The lower branches of this inflorescence can be as long as 3.5 meters, while the upper branches are shorter, with the highest being about one meter long.
From 10 to 12 months after flowering the fruits are mature. They are from 2 to 2.5 cm. in diameter and each contains an extremely hard seed 1.5 cm. in diameter.
From 10 to 12 months after flowering, the fruits are ripe. They measure between 2 to 2.5 cm in diameter and each contains a very hard seed that's 1.5 cm in diameter.
Preparation.
Buri straw is prepared from the young, unopened leaf of the buri palm. The coarsest straw is made by separating the leaflets from the midribs and drying them in the sun. A higher grade straw results from boiling them in water. Such straws are suitable only for bayon manufacture and for weaving into coarse mats for baling purposes.
Buri straw comes from the young, unopened leaves of the buri palm. The roughest straw is created by separating the leaflets from the midribs and drying them in the sun. A better quality straw is produced by boiling them in water. These straws are only good for making bayons and weaving into rough mats for baling purposes.
Several methods of bleaching buri straw obtain in various localities. Any exact description of the processes is somewhat difficult, since the persons who produce the straw have no very definite idea of the proportions and quantities of various materials which they use, and often do not care to divulge what they consider trade secrets. In several cases, nevertheless, supervising teachers have succeeded in obtaining fairly exact data on the preparation of buri straw.
Several methods for bleaching buri straw are used in different areas. It’s a bit tricky to describe these processes accurately because the people who make the straw don’t have a clear understanding of the proportions and amounts of the materials they use, and they often prefer not to reveal what they consider trade secrets. However, in several instances, supervising teachers have managed to gather fairly accurate information on how to prepare buri straw.
However, the same method carried out in different towns seems to result in different qualities of straw. These differences probably result from slight variations in the method of preparation. It has also been found that the age of the leaf, as determined by the length of the stem (petiole), influences the color of the straw produced. In some districts the unopened leaf is not taken if the stem is over two inches in length. In other places, leaves with stems about one foot high are considered ready to cut. It is probable, too, that the composition of the water in which the straw is boiled influences its color. Mauban, in Tayabas province, has the reputation of producing the whitest buri straw. Mr. John H. Finnigan, supervising teacher, attempted to introduce buri straw into the schools of Gumaca, Tayabas, where the buri palm is very plentiful. The work was in charge of expert weavers from Mauban, but only a poor quality of straw was produced. It was claimed that the water in which the segments were boiled, according to the process which is explained later, did not whiten them. It is a fact that in Mauban the water of the town fountain is used to produce the fine white straw. In the several years of his experience, Mr. Finnigan found no place outside of Mauban which produces straw equal in color to the Mauban straw, but he has noted that [48]the second best straw comes from San Fernando, Gumaca, where there is an especially clear stream of water.
However, the same method used in different towns seems to produce different qualities of straw. These differences likely come from small variations in the preparation method. It has also been observed that the age of the leaf, determined by the length of the stem (petiole), affects the color of the straw produced. In some areas, the unopened leaf is not picked if the stem is more than two inches long. In other places, leaves with stems about one foot high are seen as ready to harvest. It's also possible that the composition of the water used to boil the straw impacts its color. Mauban, in Tayabas province, is known for producing the whitest buri straw. Mr. John H. Finnigan, a supervising teacher, tried to introduce buri straw into the schools of Gumaca, Tayabas, where the buri palm is very common. The project was managed by expert weavers from Mauban, but only low-quality straw was produced. It was said that the water used to boil the segments, as explained later, did not whiten them. It's a fact that in Mauban, the water from the town fountain is used to create the fine white straw. Throughout his years of experience, Mr. Finnigan found no place outside of Mauban that produced straw as white as the Mauban straw, though he noted that [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]the second-best straw comes from San Fernando, Gumaca, where there is a particularly clear stream of water.
In fact, all reports would seem to indicate that clear, pure water is essential to the production of the finest white buri straw, and only such should be used in all processes of the various methods outlined here.
In fact, all reports seem to suggest that clean, pure water is essential for producing the best white buri straw, and only this type of water should be used in all processes of the various methods outlined here.

Plate XXX. Unopened buri leaves.
Plate XXX. Unopened buri leaves.
The Arayat Process.—Mr. Robert Clauson, supervising teacher, has determined the process of whitening buri straw in Arayat, Pampanga, as follows: The segments are separated from the midrib and rolled rather loosely, so that the water may pass between them, in bundles as large around as a plate. These are placed in a large can or vat containing tamarind leaves and alum (see bleaching agents) in water, and the whole is boiled until about one-half of the water has evaporated. During the boiling the buri must be tightly covered with tamarind leaves and not be allowed to project from the water. After this process the rolls are placed in a jar full of clear water and left to soak for three days. The strips are then washed several times in the river during a period of three days, and they are then laid on the grass or along fences to dry after each washing. The oftener they are alternately washed and dried the whiter and tougher will the material be. After the final drying, which should be thorough, the strips are rolled very tightly into bundles.
The Arayat Process.—Mr. Robert Clauson, supervising teacher, has outlined how to whiten buri straw in Arayat, Pampanga, as follows: The segments are separated from the midrib and rolled loosely so water can flow between them, forming bundles as wide as a plate. These bundles are placed in a large container or vat filled with water, tamarind leaves, and alum (see bleaching agents), and then boiled until about half of the water has evaporated. During boiling, the buri must be tightly covered with tamarind leaves and must not stick out of the water. After this step, the rolls are put in a jar full of clear water and left to soak for three days. The strips are then washed several times in the river over three days, and after each wash, they are spread on the grass or along fences to dry. The more frequently they are washed and dried alternately, the whiter and tougher the material will be. After the final thorough drying, the strips are rolled tightly into bundles.
The San Luis Method.—The method of whitening buri straw followed in San Luis, Pampanga, is described by Mr. James H. [49]Bass, supervising teacher. The unopened leaves are brought down the Chico River in rafts. The segments are torn from the midrib and boiled for four hours in five gallons of water to which one liter of nipa vinegar, a lump of alum the size of an egg, a handful of tamarind leaves, and a handful of pandakaki leaves (see bleaching agents) have been added. Other steps follow as in the previous process.
The San Luis Method.—The method of whitening buri straw used in San Luis, Pampanga, is explained by Mr. James H. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]Bass, the supervising teacher. The unopened leaves are transported down the Chico River on rafts. The segments are pulled from the midrib and boiled for four hours in five gallons of water with one liter of nipa vinegar, a lump of alum the size of an egg, a handful of tamarind leaves, and a handful of pandakaki leaves (see bleaching agents) added. Further steps continue as in the previous process.
The Mauban Process.—The following description is taken from Circular No. 27, series 1911, of the Division of Tayabas. Let the unopened leaves, cut from the stalk, stand in a cool shady place several days, until the sap has well run. Open the leaves and separate the segments from the midrib with a sharp knife. Put these carefully into a petroleum can or other suitable receptacle filled with a boiling solution of two-thirds water and one-third white nipa or coconut tubá vinegar (see bleaching agents). Keep the solution boiling until the segments are cooked so soft that folding them leaves no crease.
The Mauban Process.—The following description is taken from Circular No. 27, series 1911, of the Division of Tayabas. Let the unopened leaves, cut from the stalk, sit in a cool, shady spot for several days until the sap has fully run. Open the leaves and carefully separate the segments from the midrib using a sharp knife. Place these carefully into a petroleum can or another suitable container filled with a boiling mixture of two parts water and one part white nipa or coconut tubá vinegar (see bleaching agents). Keep the solution boiling until the segments are cooked so soft that folding them leaves no crease.
Spread the cooked leaves on clean grass in the sun to dry. The drying process may require one or two days. When the segments are quite dry, prepare a jar with clear soft water, and put them in this to soak over night. In the morning remove them from the jar, wash them thoroughly in clear running soft water and place them in the sun. At noon repeat the washing process until the segments open, then dry thoroughly in the sun.
Spread the cooked leaves on clean grass in the sun to dry. The drying process may take one or two days. Once the segments are quite dry, prepare a jar filled with clean, soft water, and soak the leaves in it overnight. In the morning, take them out of the jar, wash them well in clean running soft water, and place them back in the sun. Around noon, repeat the washing process until the segments open up, then dry them thoroughly in the sun.
It is customary to roll the buri into coils in order to make it more convenient to store. The dry leaflets may be made flexible for this purpose by laying them on the grass in the night air. After a few minutes they will be flexible enough to roll. Care must be taken to have the segments smoothly rolled. When used, they should be smoothed carefully and then split into the widths required.
It’s common to roll the buri into coils to make it easier to store. The dry leaves can be made more flexible by laying them on the grass in the cool night air. After a few minutes, they’ll be flexible enough to roll. It’s important to ensure that the segments are rolled smoothly. When using them, they should be smoothed out carefully and then cut into the needed widths.
The process can also be followed with rice vinegar (see bleaching agents) substituted for the tuba vinegar.
The process can also be followed with rice vinegar (see bleaching agents) instead of tuba vinegar.
Wash two chupas of rice and cook it in water until it becomes very soft and starchy. Put this in a clean petroleum can and add cold water until the can is two-thirds full, then cover the can and let it stand five or six days. This mixture will become very sour. Strain it through a piece of sinamay or other cloth. Cook the segments in this mixture instead of in the solution described in the first process, and then carry out all the other steps.
Wash two cups of rice and cook it in water until it’s very soft and starchy. Put this in a clean petroleum can and add cold water until the can is two-thirds full, then cover the can and let it sit for five or six days. This mixture will become very sour. Strain it through a piece of cloth or similar material. Cook the segments in this mixture instead of in the solution described in the first process, and then follow all the other steps.
The Romblon Process.—In Romblon, great care is exercised [50]as to the age of the unopened leaf taken for the production of straw. If it is intended to produce bleached straw, stalks having stems about two inches long are selected. In the following description, which was submitted by Mr. R. L. Barron, head teacher, one unopened leaf is taken as a unit. The midribs are removed and the segments are rolled into round bundles, say by fives. These are boiled in clear water for about three hours. The leaves are then placed in a mixture of half a liter of tuba vinegar (or three liters of vinegar made from cooked rice, or one-fourth liter of lemon juice) to which enough water has been added to cover the rolls of buri, and boiled for about five hours. The material is then spread in the sun for three days to dry, care being taken that it is not exposed to rain or dew. The segments are then placed in cool clear water for twelve hours and again placed out in the sun for two days to dry.
The Romblon Process.—In Romblon, great care is taken [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] regarding the age of the unopened leaves used to make straw. If the goal is to produce bleached straw, stalks with stems about two inches long are chosen. In the following description, provided by Mr. R. L. Barron, head teacher, one unopened leaf is considered a unit. The midribs are removed and the segments are rolled into round bundles, typically in groups of five. These are boiled in clear water for about three hours. The leaves are then placed in a mixture of half a liter of tuba vinegar (or three liters of vinegar made from cooked rice, or one-fourth liter of lemon juice), with enough water added to cover the rolls of buri, and boiled for about five hours. The material is then spread out in the sun for three days to dry, ensuring it is not exposed to rain or dew. The segments are then soaked in cool clear water for twelve hours and again laid out in the sun for two days to dry.
The Dyeing of Buri Straw.
Buri straw intended for mats is usually colored with the cheap imported coal tar dyes previously noted. It is expected that the new dyes for which the Bureau of Education has arranged will take the place of these. Romblon buri mats, which are the finest in point of workmanship and design made in the Philippines, are colored entirely by local vegetable dyes.
Buri straw used for mats is typically dyed with inexpensive imported coal tar dyes mentioned earlier. It is anticipated that the new dyes organized by the Bureau of Education will replace these. Romblon buri mats, known for their exceptional craftsmanship and design made in the Philippines, are dyed solely with local vegetable dyes.
The methods used in the island of Romblon in dyeing buri straw have been carefully investigated by Mr. Barron, and are presented herewith. In each case the unit of material is one stalk of buri for each color. The process of whitening Romblon buri straw has already been described.
The methods used in the island of Romblon to dye buri straw have been thoroughly examined by Mr. Barron and are presented here. In each instance, the unit of material is one stalk of buri for each color. The process of whitening Romblon buri straw has already been detailed.
For red, unopened leaves having stems three feet long should be selected. The midribs are removed while green, and the leaves are rolled into bundles of convenient size, say by fives. These are boiled in clear water for about three hours, after which the segments are spread in the sun for three days to dry. Care should be taken that they are not exposed to rain or dew. They are then placed in a fluid made by boiling two gantas of kolis leaves (see mordants) in plain water for one hour. The buri leaves remain in the water and soak thus for three days and three nights. The buri leaflets are then placed in a vessel containing two gantas of sappan wood (see dyes), one-half liter of lime water, and one chupa of tobacco leaves. To this a sufficient quantity of plain water is added to thoroughly submerge the buri, and the whole is boiled for eight hours, being stirred at short intervals to obtain a uniform shade of red. The segments [51]are then removed and hung in the wind for about six hours to dry, after which they are smoothed and rolled.
For red, unopened leaves with stems three feet long should be chosen. The midribs are removed while still green, and the leaves are rolled into convenient bundles, say in groups of five. These are boiled in clear water for about three hours, after which the pieces are spread out in the sun for three days to dry. It's important to ensure they aren’t exposed to rain or dew. Then, they are soaked in a solution made by boiling two gantas of kolis leaves (see mordants) in plain water for one hour. The buri leaves stay in the water and soak for three days and three nights. After that, the buri leaflets are placed in a container with two gantas of sappan wood (see dyes), half a liter of lime water, and one chupa of tobacco leaves. Enough plain water is added to fully submerge the buri, and everything is boiled for eight hours, stirring occasionally to achieve an even shade of red. The segments [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] are then removed and hung in the wind to dry for about six hours, after which they are smoothed and rolled.
For yellow-orange, unopened leaves having stems about two inches long are selected and the segments are removed from the midribs and rolled into bundles. These are boiled in clear water for about three hours and spread in the sun for three days to dry, care being taken that the buri is not exposed to rain or dew. The material is then placed in a vessel containing one ganta of powdered turmeric (see dyes), one chupa of powdered annatto seeds (see dyes), one liter of lime water, and sufficient clear water to cover the buri, and is boiled in this mixture for five hours, with frequent stirring. It is then removed and hung in the wind for one-half day to dry, and is smoothed and rolled.
For yellow-orange, unopened leaves with stems about two inches long are chosen, and the segments are taken off the midribs and rolled into bundles. These bundles are boiled in clear water for about three hours and then spread out in the sun for three days to dry, making sure the buri is not exposed to rain or dew. Next, the material is placed in a container with one ganta of powdered turmeric (see dyes), one chupa of powdered annatto seeds (see dyes), one liter of lime water, and enough clear water to cover the buri, and it's boiled in this mixture for five hours, stirring frequently. After that, it's removed and hung in the wind for half a day to dry, then smoothed and rolled.
For green, an unopened leaf having a stem about two inches in length is selected. The segments are removed from the midribs, rolled into bundles and boiled in clear water for about three hours. After this, they are boiled in lye (consisting of ashes) for about two hours, the mixture of ashes and water covering the buri during the process. The bundles are then removed from the vessel, wrapped in a bayon, and put in a dark place for 48 hours. The segments are then taken out and hung in the wind for about three hours to dry, and are smoothed and rolled.
For green, an unopened leaf with a stem about two inches long is chosen. The segments are taken off the midribs, rolled into bundles, and boiled in clear water for around three hours. After that, they're boiled in lye (made from ashes) for about two hours, with the mixture of ashes and water covering the buri during this time. The bundles are then taken out of the pot, wrapped in a bayon, and placed in a dark spot for 48 hours. After that, the segments are taken out and hung in the wind to dry for about three hours, then they're smoothed and rolled.
The preliminary steps in the production of “black straw” (a cold dark gray) are the same in the making of the green material. The segments taken from the bayon, as described above, are buried three days in black mud, in a rice paddy, for instance. The material is then washed in plain water until clean, and is then boiled for two hours in a mixture of one-half ganta each of the leaves of talisay, indigo, and tiagkot (see dyes), with a sufficient quantity of water to cover the mixture. The whole should be stirred at frequent intervals. After two hours the strips are removed and hung in the wind for five hours to dry. Then they are smoothed and rolled.
The initial steps in producing “black straw” (a cold dark gray) are the same as those for making the green material. The segments taken from the bayon, as mentioned earlier, are buried for three days in black mud, like in a rice paddy. The material is then washed in clean water until it's tidy, and then boiled for two hours in a mix of half a ganta each of talisay leaves, indigo, and tiagkot (see dyes), along with enough water to cover the mix. Everything should be stirred regularly. After two hours, the strips are taken out and left to dry in the wind for five hours. Then, they are smoothed out and rolled up.
Types of Buri Mats.
The Bontoc Peninsula of Tayabas produces great quantities of baling mats and bayons. Bayons are also produced in large quantities in Capiz province. Other localities are of less importance.
The Bontoc Peninsula of Tayabas produces large amounts of baling mats and bayons. Bayons are also made in significant quantities in Capiz province. Other areas are less significant.

Plate XXXI. Fair grade Romblon mat.
Plate XXXI. Fair grade Romblon mat.

Plate XXXII. Medium Romblon mat.
Plate XXXII. Medium Romblon rug.
Buri sleeping mats are made from the northernmost part of Luzon, in the Bangui Peninsula, to the Sulu Archipelago. For the most part they are woven in small numbers here and there, [52]in the different towns, sometimes for use in the household in which they are made, often for local trade in the barrios or municipalities. In nearly every province there is at least one town in which the production of buri mats reaches provincial commercial importance. A number of municipalities produce [53]them for a fairly extensive trade with neighboring provinces. In most cases these are ordinary products, usually decorated with a few colors in lines or checks of dyed straws, either woven in or embroidered on the mat.
Buri sleeping mats are made from the northernmost part of Luzon, in the Bangui Peninsula, all the way to the Sulu Archipelago. Generally, they are woven in small quantities here and there, [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]in different towns, sometimes for use in the households where they are made, and often for local trade in the neighborhoods or municipalities. In almost every province, there’s at least one town where producing buri mats has become commercially significant. Several municipalities produce [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]them for a fairly large trade with neighboring provinces. Most of these mats are standard products, typically adorned with a few colors in stripes or checks of dyed straw, either woven into or embroidered onto the mat.

Plate XXXIII. High grade Romblon mat.
Plate XXXIII. Premium Romblon mat.
In one region, however, buri mats have reached such a degree of perfection in their weaving and decoration as to have become a distinctive product known throughout the Islands. These are the Romblon buri mats, and they are produced throughout the islands of Romblon. Their central market is the town of the same name. They are distinctive because of the fine white and colored materials used, and of the designs which are woven in them. In the designing, not only checks and line borders but also plaids appear, and many of the effects produced by floating straws are employed. The Romblon mat, moreover, is most noticeable because of the fancy weave, making a sort of open work along the border, for which these mats are unique. Romblon exports great quantities of mats varying in price from ₱0.25, to over ₱10, and in size from small mats for stands to large decorative mats which cover the sides of rooms.4
In one area, however, buri mats have been perfected in their weaving and decoration to the point that they've become a distinctive product recognized throughout the Islands. These are the Romblon buri mats, and they are made across the islands of Romblon. Their main market is the town of the same name. They stand out because of the fine white and colored materials used and the intricate designs woven into them. The designs feature checks, line borders, plaids, and many effects created by floating straws. Additionally, the Romblon mat is particularly notable for its fancy weave that creates a sort of open work along the border, making these mats one of a kind. Romblon exports large quantities of mats that range in price from ₱0.25 to over ₱10 and in size from small mats for stands to large decorative mats that can cover the sides of rooms.4

Good Sabutan Mat.
Good Sabutan Mat.
[57]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Pandan Straws.
Description of Pandans.
Pandans or “screw-pines,” as they are sometimes called, are readily recognized by their characteristic appearance.5 The common forms occasionally planted in pots as house plants and in gardens, or more often found growing wild, have long and rather narrow leaves always supplied with more or less sharp spines which run along both their margins to the very tip. Another row of spines is present on the under surface along the midrib. Bearing in mind this middle row of spines it is impossible to mistake the leaf of the pandan for that of the pineapple or maguey, which it resembles more or less in form and shape. Another very prominent feature of pandans is the presence of air or prop roots which grow from the stem above the ground and are helpful to the plant in various ways. The veins of the leaves always run parallel and in a longitudinal direction. The leaves are never borne on a petiole, but are attached directly, in winding corkscrew fashion, in ranks of three, to the stem.
Pandans, sometimes known as “screw-pines,” are easily recognized by their unique look.5 The common varieties are often planted in pots as houseplants or in gardens, but are more frequently found growing wild. They have long, narrow leaves that are lined with sharp spines along the edges up to the tip. There's also a row of spines on the underside along the main vein. Because of this middle row of spines, it's easy to tell the pandan leaf apart from those of the pineapple or maguey, which they somewhat resemble. Another notable feature of pandans is the air or prop roots that grow from the stem above the ground, providing various benefits to the plant. The leaf veins run parallel and lengthwise. The leaves don’t have a petiole; instead, they attach directly to the stem in a winding corkscrew pattern, usually in groups of three.
Pandans are true tropical shrubs or trees. Although also found in the subtropics of Australia, they never occur in other temperate regions except when raised as ornamental plants in greenhouses. Even their distribution in the tropics is limited, as they are found growing wild only in the tropical regions of the Old World, especially on the islands lying between the mainland of Australia and southeastern Asia. They are hardly ever cultivated, [58]for where they do occur they are found in more than sufficient quantity for the purposes to which they are put. They are essentially seacoast or open swamp forms, generally found at low altitudes and appearing to find a moist, warm climate most congenial to their growth. In the Philippines they occur in all provinces, though not always in sufficient quantity to make them of commercial importance.
Pandans are genuine tropical shrubs or trees. While they can also be found in the subtropics of Australia, they don't occur in other temperate areas unless they are grown as ornamental plants in greenhouses. Their distribution in the tropics is limited, as they grow wild only in the tropical regions of the Old World, particularly on the islands between mainland Australia and Southeast Asia. They are rarely cultivated, [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]because where they do grow, they are abundant enough for their intended uses. They typically thrive in coastal or open swamp areas, usually found at low altitudes and prefer a moist, warm climate for their growth. In the Philippines, they can be found in all provinces, although not always in enough quantity to be of commercial significance.
The structure of the pandans presents many exceedingly interesting characteristics well worth noticing. Some plants are very low with leaves not wider than a blade of grass, while others form large trees with leaves many meters long and several decimeters wide. Spines generally occur along the whole margin of the leaf, though in a few forms, especially in cultivated varieties, they may be present only at the tip or may be wanting entirely. The marginal spines usually curve forward and vary in size from small, hardly perceptible forms, to large sharp conical structures. At times they are set very close together; again they may be several centimeters apart. Those on the midrib most often curve backwards and may vary the same as the marginal spines. Generally the spines are green in color, though in some species they are pale-green, red, black or white.
The structure of the pandans shows many really interesting features that are worth noting. Some plants are very low with leaves no wider than a blade of grass, while others grow into large trees with leaves several meters long and a few decimeters wide. Spines usually run along the entire edge of the leaf, but in some forms, especially cultivated varieties, they might only be present at the tip or may be completely absent. The edge spines typically curve forward and range in size from tiny, barely noticeable forms to large, sharp conical shapes. Sometimes they are placed very close together; other times they can be several centimeters apart. The spines on the midrib usually curve backward and can vary just like the edge spines. Generally, the spines are green, but in some species, they can be pale green, red, black, or white.
Some forms seem to creep along the ground, while others, low and bushy and standing close together, form, with their numerous supporting prop roots, an almost impenetrable jungle. The high tree forms are very striking because of their peculiarly shaped crowns.
Some plants seem to crawl along the ground, while others, short and bushy and standing close together, create, with their many supporting prop roots, an almost impenetrable jungle. The tall trees are very impressive because of their uniquely shaped crowns.
The first roots which the pandans develop soon disappear and their place is taken by others. Starting high above the ground, these grow at an angle from the stem and generally reach the soil. They serve the twofold purpose of supporting the stem and of supplying it with sufficient air. If, by accident, the underground roots die off, the plant relies entirely on these air and prop roots for support and food. The strong prop roots are generally of the same diameter throughout, though sometimes they thicken at the ends. Normally they never branch above the ground, but after reaching the soil very often divide. The tip of the roots is protected by a cap, while a layer of cork tissue prevents the drying out of the root body.
The first roots that the pandan plants develop soon disappear, replaced by new ones. These new roots start high above the ground, growing at an angle from the stem and usually reaching the soil. They serve two purposes: supporting the stem and providing it with enough air. If the underground roots accidentally die off, the plant depends entirely on these aerial and prop roots for support and nourishment. The strong prop roots are typically the same diameter throughout, although they may thicken at the ends. Normally, they don’t branch above ground, but they often split once they reach the soil. The tips of the roots are protected by a cap, while a layer of cork tissue prevents the root body from drying out.
The pandan has two kinds of flowers, male and female. The male flowers are arranged in the form of a spike protected by a modified leaf called the bract. They are white in color, crowded together on the spike and consist of stamens which hold the pollen. The flowers do not have the showy colored bracts which forms so prominent a feature in those of many other plants. [59]The female flowers consist only of the necessary parts. As the pollen occurs in enormous quantities and as the plants generally grow in groups, it is very probable that some flowers are pollinated by the wind. The fact that many pandans have very fragrant blossoms makes it almost certain that in the majority of cases insect pollination takes place. In a few forms that have a very disagreeable odor, pollination is effected by night flying insects.
The pandan has two types of flowers: male and female. The male flowers are arranged in a spike that’s protected by a modified leaf called the bract. They are white, grouped closely together on the spike, and made up of stamens that hold the pollen. Unlike many other plants, these flowers don’t have colorful bracts that stand out. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]The female flowers contain only the essential parts. Since pollen is produced in large amounts and the plants usually grow in clusters, it's likely that some flowers are pollinated by the wind. Because many pandan plants have very fragrant blossoms, it's almost certain that most pollination occurs through insects. In some varieties that emit a very unpleasant smell, pollination happens through night-flying insects.
The fruit commonly has the general shape of the female inflorescence, but as it matures it increases greatly in size. Pandans have a composite fruit made up of smaller fruits called drupes. The most common forms resemble the pineapple with its leafy fruit apex cut off. As is natural, variations from this type occur. Cylindrical, eggshaped, jackfruit-like forms are quite common. The largest may be 60 cm. long and weigh 25 kilos, the smallest only 7 cm. in length and 60 grams in weight. The fruit may occur solitary at the end of a branch, or in groups. The color is green, though some species change to a bright red before maturity is reached. The fruit may have drupes ranging from 12 mm. to 14 mm. in length and these may contain one seed or a number of seeds. At maturity the drupes separate and the fruit falls apart. If the plant occurs along the water, the seeds, when liberated, float about until they rest in a suitable place for germination.
The fruit usually has the basic shape of the female flower cluster, but it gets much larger as it grows. Pandans have a composite fruit made up of smaller fruits called drupes. The most common shapes look like a pineapple with the leafy top cut off. Naturally, there are variations from this shape. Cylindrical, egg-shaped, and jackfruit-esque shapes are quite common. The biggest can reach 60 cm long and weigh 25 kilos, while the smallest may only be 7 cm in length and 60 grams in weight. The fruit can appear alone at the end of a branch or in clusters. Its color is green, but some species turn bright red before they fully mature. The fruit can have drupes that range from 12 mm to 14 mm in length, which can contain one seed or several seeds. When mature, the drupes split apart, and the fruit falls apart. If the plant is near water, the seeds float until they land in a good spot for germination.
Uses of Pandans.
Pandans are valued chiefly for their strong fibrous leaves, which are woven into mats, bags, and hats. Unless specially prepared, the soft plant tissue between the harder leaf fibers becomes dry and dirty and breaks in time; hence the ordinary pandan bag or mat can not be considered a durable article. However, when treated to a boiling process or when rolled, as explained for sabutan and the pandan of Majayjay, the leaves yield straw which is stronger and more durable than most palm or sedge straw used for the same purposes.
Pandans are primarily valued for their strong, fibrous leaves, which are woven into mats, bags, and hats. If not specially prepared, the soft plant material between the tougher leaf fibers dries out, gets dirty, and eventually breaks; therefore, a typical pandan bag or mat isn't a long-lasting item. However, when the leaves are treated with a boiling process or rolled, as described for sabutan and the pandan of Majayjay, they produce straw that is stronger and more durable than most palm or sedge straw used for similar purposes.
Pandan mats are important articles of domestic commerce in Malaysia, as it is estimated that four-fifths of the total population use them for sleeping purposes. In all places except where palms, like the buri or sedges occur, they yield the most suitable and most easily prepared mat material. Generally the whole leaf is utilized after removing the marginal and midrib spines. The coarsest mats are used in drying out copra, cacao beans, paddy, and such products. Pandan mats are made and used widely in the Philippines. [60]
Pandan mats are essential items for everyday life in Malaysia, with estimates suggesting that about 80% of the population uses them for sleeping. They provide the most suitable and easiest material for mats, especially in areas where palm plants, like buri or sedges, don’t grow. Typically, the entire leaf is used after the spiny edges and midrib are removed. The roughest mats are often used for drying copra, cacao beans, rice, and similar products. Pandan mats are also commonly made and used in the Philippines. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Formerly, before gunny sacks came into general use, coffee was packed in pandan bags and where pandans did not grow they were introduced and cultivated for that purpose. Even to-day bags from pandan play an important part in transporting sugar, coffee, and other tropical products in and around southern Asia. Few pandan bags are made in the Philippines in comparison with the enormous quantity of bayons woven of buri straw and used to contain domestic rice and export sugar.
Previously, before gunny sacks became commonly used, coffee was packed in pandan bags, and where pandans didn’t grow, they were introduced and cultivated for that purpose. Even today, pandan bags are still important for transporting sugar, coffee, and other tropical products in and around southern Asia. In comparison to the massive quantity of bayons made from buri straw and used for domestic rice and export sugar, few pandan bags are produced in the Philippines.
Pandans are used extensively for making hats in the Philippines as well as in other parts of the world. In several islands of the Pacific very fine ones are woven from straw consisting of the whole leaf cut into strips. In the Loochoo Islands imitation Panama hats of great strength are woven from the skin of a pandan, bleached and rolled into a straw. In the Philippines numerous varieties of pandan hats are produced, varying in grade from the fine and expensive sabutan to the coarse pandan.6
Pandans are widely used to make hats in the Philippines and other parts of the world. On several Pacific islands, very fine hats are woven from straw made by cutting the entire leaf into strips. In the Loochoo Islands, strong imitation Panama hats are woven from the skin of a pandan, which is bleached and rolled into straw. In the Philippines, many types of pandan hats are produced, ranging from the fine and expensive sabutan to the rougher pandan. 6
In some other places, as Burma, pandan leaves are woven or sewed into sails. In southern India they are utilized as umbrella covering. If no stronger material is obtainable, the leaves are placed on roofs as thatching, but they do not seem to lend themselves well to that purpose. In countries where they grow, they are often used instead of twine or made into ropes or hunting nets, or into drag ropes for fishing nets. They are said to be excellent paper-making material. In some islands the fibers are separated from the leaf and used by the inhabitants in the manufacture of belts and aprons.
In some places, like Burma, pandan leaves are woven or sewn into sails. In southern India, they are used for umbrella coverings. If no stronger material is available, the leaves are placed on roofs as thatching, though they don't seem great for that purpose. In countries where they grow, they are often used instead of twine or made into ropes, hunting nets, or drag ropes for fishing nets. They are considered excellent for making paper. In some islands, the fibers are separated from the leaves and used by the locals to make belts and aprons.
The wood of the tree pandans is too spongy and soft to make a good material for the construction of houses. Still, on small islands, such as the Coral and Marshall Islands, the natives construct their huts from pandan wood. Generally, it is used only for rough, temporary work. In some localities the soft interior part is removed to make water pipes. Again, because of its lightness, the wood is used by the people on the many islands of the Pacific to buoy their fishing nets.
The wood from pandan trees is too soft and spongy to be suitable for building houses. However, on smaller islands like the Coral and Marshall Islands, locals use pandan wood to build their huts. Typically, it's only used for rough, temporary structures. In some places, the soft inner part is taken out to create water pipes. Additionally, because it’s lightweight, people on many Pacific islands use the wood to keep their fishing nets afloat.
Pandan roots are employed for various purposes. If sufficiently thin they are used, after being cleaned, for making baskets. The roots may also be pounded out, cleaned and made into brushes for painting or whitewashing houses. They are sometimes so employed in the Philippines. They are also used for cordage. A medicinal oil is sometimes obtained from them. [61]
Pandan roots are used for different purposes. If they are thin enough, they can be cleaned and used to make baskets. The roots can also be pounded, cleaned, and turned into brushes for painting or whitewashing houses, a practice sometimes seen in the Philippines. Additionally, they can be used for making cords. Sometimes, a medicinal oil is extracted from them. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
The flowers of some pandans, especially those of Pandanus tectorius, are extremely fragrant. This plant is the most widely distributed of the pandans and is the most frequent pandan found along the seacoast and in low altitudes. Some botanists claim that the male flowers of this species have the sweetest odor known among plants. So powerful is their fragrance that by it sailors can often tell the presence of land before they actually see it. The natives in some places use the flowers in making an aromatic water, or, by distillation, a volatile oil, known as keura oil, which is used medicinally for rheumatism.
The flowers of some pandan plants, especially Pandanus tectorius, have a very strong fragrance. This plant is the most commonly found type of pandan and is often seen along the coast and at low elevations. Some botanists say that the male flowers of this species have the sweetest scent of any plant. Their fragrance is so strong that sailors can often detect land by its scent before they actually see it. In some areas, locals use the flowers to make a fragrant water or, through distillation, a volatile oil known as keura oil, which is used medicinally for treating rheumatism.
Certain pandan fruit is extremely oily and serves at times as a substitute for butter. The sap has the taste of sweet apples and is relished by the inhabitants in many islands. In some places it is even made into fruit jam.
Certain pandan fruit is really oily and sometimes serves as a replace for butter. The sap tastes like sweet apples and is enjoyed by people on many islands. In some places, it's even turned into fruit jam.
The very young leaves, especially those surrounding the flowers, are eaten raw or cooked, and constitute an important article of diet when a famine sweeps India.
The young leaves, especially those around the flowers, are eaten raw or cooked and are an important part of the diet during famines in India.
Kinds of Pandans.
The Common Seashore Pandan.

Plate XXXIV. Common pandan along Pasay Beach, Rizal.
Plate XXXIV. Common pandan along Pasay Beach, Rizal.
In a walk of half a mile or, at most, a mile along the beach of any of the seacoast provinces in the Philippines, one is almost sure to come across Pandanus tectorius. A map showing the distribution of this pandan would therefore be practically an outline map of the Islands. The species does not grow in nipa swamps, though immediately back of them it will be found well established. Neither could one expect to find it in localities where the cliffs come down abruptly to the sea, permitting only the existence of vegetable life of the lowest form.
In a walk of half a mile or, at most, a mile along the beach of any seacoast province in the Philippines, you're almost guaranteed to come across Pandanus tectorius. A map showing where this pandan grows would practically be an outline map of the Islands. This species doesn’t grow in nipa swamps, but you can find it well established just behind them. You also wouldn’t expect to find it in areas where the cliffs drop steeply to the sea, allowing only the simplest forms of plant life to exist.
Pandan is its usual name in the Philippines. In Zambales it is called “panglan” or “panglan babai.” Another name is “pangdan.”
Pandan is the usual name in the Philippines. In Zambales, it's called "panglan" or "panglan babai." Another name for it is "pangdan."
The stem is not very strong, and reaches a height of from 3 to 6 meters. It is generally supported by aerial roots. The leaves [62]are of medium thickness, on the average 1.35 m. long and 6 cm. wide. They are provided with strong sharp spines about 5 mm. in length. These are curved forward and are as much as one centimeter, or a little more, apart. The spines on the under surface of the midrib are shorter and farther apart, but bend in the same direction. The male flowers form a spike and these are surrounded by very fragrant leaves called spathes. The fruit is 20 cm. long, 18 cm. wide, and contains from 50 to 80 drupes, each about 5.5 cm. long and 2.5 to 3 cm. wide. The upper half of the drupes are free but close together. There are small furrows on the tops of the drupes, rather deep but not very distinct. When ripe the fruit has a fine red color and the drupes fall from the head.
The stem isn't very strong and grows to a height of 3 to 6 meters. It's usually supported by aerial roots. The leaves [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]are of medium thickness, averaging 1.35 m long and 6 cm wide. They have strong, sharp spines about 5 mm long. These spines curve forward and are spaced about one centimeter apart, or a little more. The spines on the underside of the midrib are shorter and spaced farther apart, but they bend in the same direction. The male flowers form a spike and are surrounded by highly fragrant leaves called spathes. The fruit measures 20 cm long and 18 cm wide, containing 50 to 80 drupes, each about 5.5 cm long and 2.5 to 3 cm wide. The upper half of the drupes are free but close together, featuring small, somewhat deep but not very distinct furrows on their tops. When ripe, the fruit turns a beautiful red color, and the drupes fall from the head.

Plate XXXV. Fruit of the common pandan.
Plate XXXV. Fruit of the common pandan.
Pandanus tectorius is of considerable importance in nearly all parts of the world where it grows, and it is devoted to most of the uses already noted for pandans in general. In certain places, large industries are founded on it. In India, the leaves are cut every second year and made into large bags. Hats are produced from it in the Pacific Islands, those from the Hawaiian group being especially well known. It is probable that the imitation Panama hats of the Loochoo Islands are also woven from a material (raffia) prepared from the common pandan. In the Marshall Islands it is recorded that forty varieties of this species have been evolved in the course of planting and cultivation for industrial purposes.
Pandanus tectorius is very important in almost every part of the world where it grows and is used for most of the purposes already mentioned for pandans in general. In some areas, large industries are based on it. In India, the leaves are harvested every two years and made into large bags. Hats are made from it in the Pacific Islands, with those from Hawaii being particularly famous. It's likely that the imitation Panama hats from the Loochoo Islands are also woven from a material (raffia) made from the common pandan. In the Marshall Islands, it's noted that forty varieties of this species have developed through planting and cultivation for industrial use.
From the information submitted with the specimens received in the Bureau of Education, it is to be judged that the economic importance of the common pandan in the Philippines is of but little consequence. Though widely used, no large or even local industries are based upon it. A scattering production of hats, mats, and bags is reported in Abra, Union, Zambales, Mindoro, Bulacan, Rizal, Batangas, Sorsogon, Iloilo, Antique, Oriental [63]Negros, Cebu, Leyte, and Sorsogon provinces. Near Badoc, Ilocos Norte, and along the Abra border the Tinguian people make mats from an upland variety for local trade. In Balayan, Batangas, the leaves are used for thatching. In Surigao they are also made into baskets. In most processes the preparation of the straw consists of cutting the leaves into strips and drying them. In Zambales, however, it is reported that the leaves are flattened, pressed, split, and rolled. In Mindoro, they are soaked in water and dried in the sun before being cut into straw. It is probable that much better material could be prepared from this pandan if such processes as are used in the making of sabutan straw and straw from the Majayjay pandan were followed.
From the information submitted with the samples received in the Bureau of Education, it appears that the economic importance of the common pandan in the Philippines is quite minimal. Although it's widely used, there are no significant or even local industries that depend on it. A small-scale production of hats, mats, and bags has been reported in Abra, Union, Zambales, Mindoro, Bulacan, Rizal, Batangas, Sorsogon, Iloilo, Antique, Oriental Negros, Cebu, Leyte, and Sorsogon provinces. Near Badoc, Ilocos Norte, and along the Abra border, the Tinguian people create mats from an upland variety for local trade. In Balayan, Batangas, the leaves are used for thatching. In Surigao, they are also made into baskets. Typically, the preparation of the straw involves cutting the leaves into strips and drying them. However, in Zambales, it's reported that the leaves are flattened, pressed, split, and rolled. In Mindoro, they are soaked in water and dried in the sun before being cut into straw. It’s likely that much better material could be produced from this pandan if the processes used for making sabutan straw and straw from the Majayjay pandan were adopted.

Plate XXXVI. Sabutan at Tanay, Rizal.
Plate XXXVI. Sabutan in Tanay, Rizal.
Judging from the results obtained in other countries, it would seem that if suckers of the common pandan were taken, in the districts in which it grows, planted, and cultivated, varieties would result which would be much better adapted for industrial purposes than the parent stock. Indeed, it is probable that sabutan, the Philippine pandan of greatest economic importance, is a variety which is the result of generations of planting, still closely resembling P. tectorius but differing from it in its leaves, which are thinner, longer, of finer texture and of greater strength. It is possible also that sarakat, the economic pandan of the Bangui Peninsula, Ilocos Norte, is a variety of P. tectorius.
Judging by the results seen in other countries, it seems that if suckers of the common pandan are taken from areas where it grows, planted, and cultivated, the new varieties that emerge would likely be better suited for industrial uses than the original stock. In fact, it's likely that sabutan, the Philippine pandan with the most economic importance, is a variety that has developed over many generations of planting. It still closely resembles P. tectorius but differs with leaves that are thinner, longer, have a finer texture, and are stronger. It's also possible that sarakat, the economic pandan from the Bangui Peninsula in Ilocos Norte, is a variety of P. tectorius.
Varieties of the Common Pandan.
Sabutan.
Botanical.—It is a question among botanists whether the pandan known as sabutan is a variety of the common sea-shore pandan (P. tectorius) or whether it has sufficient distinctive characteristics to entitle it to be considered as a separate species (P. sabotan). Botanists have not as yet succeeded in securing a fruit of this pandan, which could settle the question, and it is [64]very doubtful whether the fruit will ever be found.7 Prof. Ugolino Martelli of Florence, Italy, an authority on pandans, considers sabutan to be Pandanus tectorius var. sinensis. This classification is for the present accepted, as most evidence is in favor of such determination and in this paper sabutan is therefore considered to be a variety of the common pandan, the chief change in which, through generations of planting, has been in the production of a leaf stronger, thinner, and of finer texture than that of the parent stock.
Botanical.—There’s a debate among botanists about whether the pandan called sabutan is a variety of the common sea-shore pandan (P. tectorius) or if it has enough unique characteristics to be classified as a separate species (P. sabotan). So far, botanists haven't managed to obtain a fruit from this pandan that could clarify the issue, and it's [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]quite uncertain whether the fruit will ever be discovered.7 Prof. Ugolino Martelli from Florence, Italy, a leading expert on pandans, views sabutan as Pandanus tectorius var. sinensis. This classification is currently accepted since most evidence supports this conclusion, and in this paper, sabutan is considered a variety of the common pandan, with the main change over generations of cultivation being the development of a leaf that is stronger, thinner, and of finer texture than that of the original stock.

Plate XXXVII. Flower of sabutan.
Plate XXXVII. Sabutan flower.
The sabutan plant is never found growing wild, though after it has once been started and rooted it will endure neglect and even abandonment. It produces better and finer leaves, however, if it receives some care and attention. In the towns of Tanay and [65]Pililla, Rizal Province, and in Mabitac, Laguna Province, and in all the towns along the lake shore as far as Paete, the suckers of the plant are set out in small plots of ground surrounding the houses of the people. These form patches which in several years (depending mostly on soil conditions) yield pandan leaves large and fine enough to be used in the manufacture of hats and mats. The ideal location for sabutan is along the banks of streams where it can get the benefit of the light shade of bamboo or plants that happen to grow in the vicinity. Ordinarily, good results are obtained by planting the suckers of sabutan in a loose and moist, but well drained, soil. Plants are set out one meter apart in each direction, as they spread considerably. They need some shade, especially when young, but not the heavy shade of an abacá or banana grove.
The sabutan plant never grows wild, but once it's started and rooted, it can handle neglect and even abandonment. It does produce better and finer leaves if it gets some care and attention. In the towns of Tanay and [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]Pililla in Rizal Province, as well as in Mabitac in Laguna Province, and in all the towns along the lakeshore up to Paete, the suckers of the plant are planted in small plots around people's houses. These patches can yield large and fine pandan leaves in several years (mostly depending on the soil conditions), which are suitable for making hats and mats. The best spot for sabutan is along stream banks where it can benefit from the light shade of bamboo or nearby plants. Generally, good results come from planting the suckers in loose, moist, but well-drained soil. The plants should be spaced one meter apart in each direction since they spread a lot. They require some shade, especially when they're young, but not the heavy shade of an abacá or banana grove.
The plant grows to be from 2 to 4 meters high. The leaves are fine in texture, about 2 meters long and as wide as 6 centimeters. Spines occur on the margins and on the under surface of the midrib. The male inflorescence procured from Tanay by the Bureau of Education is similar in appearance to that of Pandanus tectorius and is about 27 centimeters long. At varying distances on the flower stalk are leaves (bracts), thin and fine, from 10 to 24 centimeters long and with fine spines on margins and midrib. The flowers have a pleasant, though not very strong, odor.
The plant grows between 2 to 4 meters tall. The leaves are fine in texture, around 2 meters long and 6 centimeters wide. Spines are found on the edges and on the underside of the midrib. The male inflorescence obtained from Tanay by the Bureau of Education looks similar to that of Pandanus tectorius and measures about 27 centimeters long. At various points along the flower stalk, there are leaves (bracts) that are thin and fine, ranging from 10 to 24 centimeters long, with fine spines along the edges and midrib. The flowers have a pleasant, although not very strong, fragrance.
Status of the sabutan mat industry.—As an industry, the weaving of sabutan mats is confined to the towns of Tanay and Pililla, in the Province of Rizal. The beginnings of this industry go back beyond the memory of the oldest inhabitants or even of their parents. It is probable that, as the people state, mat weaving has been carried on ever since the towns were founded. Tanay is the older of the two and it would seem (though reliable historical data of this kind are difficult to obtain) that the town was the first to engage in sabutan mat weaving and is probably the mother of all the sabutan industries carried on around Laguna de Bay.
Status of the sabutan mat industry.—The weaving of sabutan mats is mainly found in the towns of Tanay and Pililla, located in the Province of Rizal. This industry has roots that go back further than the memories of the oldest residents or even their parents. It’s likely that, as locals claim, mat weaving has been practiced since the towns were established. Tanay is the older of the two towns, and it seems (although it’s hard to find reliable historical data on this) that it was the first to start sabutan mat weaving and is likely the origin for all the sabutan industries around Laguna de Bay.
The present condition of the mat-weaving industry of these two towns, however, is precarious; it appears to be gradually dying out. The fabrication of sabutan hats has been introduced from Mabitac, Laguna Province, into Pililla, with the result that the younger generation is entirely engaged in making hats, and the relatively small number of mats produced is being woven by the older women who have not cared to learn the new art. As yet no hats are made in Tanay, but the work is being taught in the schools and from conversation with people of the town it is judged that they are becoming interested also. [66]
The current state of the mat-weaving industry in these two towns, however, is unstable; it seems to be slowly fading away. The production of sabutan hats has been brought over from Mabitac, Laguna Province, to Pililla, leading to the younger generation fully focusing on hat-making. Meanwhile, the relatively small amount of mats being produced is crafted by the older women who haven't taken the time to learn this new skill. No hats are made in Tanay yet, but the craft is being taught in schools, and conversations with local residents suggest that they are becoming interested as well. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
The disappearance of the sabutan mat industry would be very unfortunate, for the products are the finest samples of the mat weaver’s art produced in the Philippines. The mats are of fine straw; the natural gray of sabutan is pleasing; the designs used are good; and the colors are usually well combined. The favorite patterns consist of heavy plaids with some of the stripes containing sub-patterns produced by floating straws; the simplest ones have narrow border designs in straight lines. The most expensive mats are decorated with embroidered designs. The combination of colors in these is sometimes not pleasing and the designs themselves are not of special merit. However, if better ones are substituted, these mats should be excellent for a foreign trade demanding expensive articles of this nature. Unlike most Philippine mat industries, this one has not as yet been affected by coal tar dyes, and only vegetable dyes, found locally in the town or in the forests, are employed. The straw dyes very well and as a consequence the colors produced are even throughout the mat; nor have any of the shades that brilliant effect or “off color” which is so distasteful in certain fibers. The colors obtained are only fairly fast in the light, however, and it is probable that the new coal tar dyes will be faster and cheaper. In point of durability, sabutan mats would be superior to all others produced in the Islands if woven of double straws. In price they now vary from forty centavos to thirty pesos, the ordinary ones bringing from ₱1.50 to ₱2.50.
The loss of the sabutan mat industry would be really unfortunate, as these products are the finest examples of mat weaving art made in the Philippines. The mats are made from fine straw; the natural gray of sabutan is attractive; the designs used are nice; and the colors are generally well-matched. The popular patterns feature bold plaids with some stripes containing sub-patterns created by floating straws; the simplest ones have narrow border designs in straight lines. The most expensive mats are decorated with embroidered designs. The color combinations in these can sometimes be unappealing, and the designs themselves are not particularly impressive. However, if better designs are used, these mats could be great for foreign trade that seeks high-end products like this. Unlike most Philippine mat industries, this one hasn't been impacted by coal tar dyes yet, and only vegetable dyes, sourced locally in the town or from the forests, are used. The straw takes dye well, resulting in even colors throughout the mat; none of the shades have the brilliant effect or "off color" that can be unpleasant in certain fibers. The colors achieved are only moderately lightfast, however, and it's likely that new coal tar dyes will be faster and cheaper. In terms of durability, sabutan mats would be superior to all others made in the Islands if woven from double straws. Prices currently range from forty centavos to thirty pesos, with regular ones selling for around ₱1.50 to ₱2.50.

Plate XXXVIII. Cheap sabutan mat.
Plate XXXVIII. Affordable sabutan mat.
If the industry is to be preserved intact, however, something must be done to give it vitality, for the weavers know from [67]experience of neighboring towns that more money can be made from weaving hats than in the fabrication of mats, and they will naturally change to the more remunerative article. Unlike most other weaving industries, the craft has not as yet been organized in Tanay. The production of mats has been more or less haphazard, with but little supervision by any person resembling the broker usually connected with household industries. The weaver on completing a mat sells it in the market or to some storekeeper. Up to the present time, the chief trade in these mats has been at Antipolo in May during the “romeria” or annual pilgrimage to the shrine of the Virgin of Antipolo. Certain persons in Tanay have made it a practice to gather up a store of mats and take them to Antipolo for sale there during the fiesta. A few of them are on sale in Manila and in neighboring provinces. Of late, however, persons have appeared who are taking up the industry more thoroughly as brokers and it is to be hoped that the workers will be organized into some better system for production than now exists. There is a large opportunity not only for supervision but also for division of labor. At present the men of the house cut the leaves, and each weaver (all the weavers are women) carries out the rest of the process. There would be a considerable saving of time if certain persons devoted themselves to the preparation of the gray straw, and the dyeing were left entirely to certain other workers. In this way the weavers of the mats would be engaged only in the actual fabrication of the article and much time would be saved to them.8
If the industry is going to survive, it needs to be revitalized because the weavers have seen from experience in nearby towns that they can make more money weaving hats than mats, so they’ll naturally switch to the more profitable option. Unlike most other weaving industries, the craft hasn’t been organized in Tanay yet. The production of mats has been pretty random, without much supervision from someone resembling the broker typically involved in household industries. Once a weaver finishes a mat, they sell it at the market or to a storekeeper. So far, the main market for these mats has been in Antipolo in May during the “romeria” or annual pilgrimage to the shrine of the Virgin of Antipolo. Some people in Tanay have made it their practice to collect a stock of mats and sell them in Antipolo during the fiesta. A few mats are also available in Manila and nearby provinces. Recently, however, individuals have emerged who are taking up the industry more seriously as brokers, and it is hoped that the workers will be organized into a better production system than what currently exists. There’s a significant opportunity for better supervision and division of labor. Right now, the men cut the leaves, and each weaver (all the weavers are women) handles the rest of the process. It would save a lot of time if certain people focused on preparing the gray straw, while dyeing could be assigned entirely to other workers. This way, the mat weavers would only be engaged in the actual crafting of the mats, saving them much time.

Plate XXXIX. Smoothing sabutan, Tanay, Rizal.
Plate XXXIX. Smoothing sabutan, Tanay, Rizal.
[68]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Planting, maturing, and yield of sabutan.—The plants from which the straw mats at Tanay are made are set out in plots near the houses of the workers. The suckers are planted in April at the beginning of the rainy season, and, while it is always stated that straw prepared from the leaves grown in the shade is best for weaving, yet the plants are never intentionally set out in the shade but are planted wherever an unoccupied plot of ground is obtainable. As a matter of fact, the patches to be seen in the sabutan towns grow in a semi-shade such as one would expect to find in yards where the usual ornamental and fruit trees and banana plants grow. Much of the sabutan is in the sun from morning to night; some is shaded during all or part of the day. The suckers mature leaves in the third year9 but these are cut off and thrown away as useless and it is not until the fourth year that the lower leaves can be stripped into straw. Harvest takes place every four months, five or six leaves being obtained from a plant at each cutting. The plants are never irrigated but it is to be noted that the soil around Laguna de Bay is very moist and that the water table is close to the surface with a good seepage from the hills which are near the shore. It is probable that the plants differ in their production of leaves because some have many more branches than others and the climatic and soil conditions affect the yield.
Planting, maturing, and yield of sabutan.—The plants used for making straw mats in Tanay are planted in plots near the workers' homes. The suckers are planted in April when the rainy season starts, and although it’s commonly said that straw made from leaves grown in the shade is best for weaving, the plants are never purposely planted in the shade; they're set wherever there’s an empty plot of land. In reality, the patches seen in the sabutan towns grow in semi-shade, typical of yards with common ornamental and fruit trees and banana plants. Much of the sabutan is exposed to sunlight from morning until night; some is shaded for all or part of the day. The suckers mature leaves in the third year, but these are cut off and discarded as useless. It isn't until the fourth year that the lower leaves can be harvested as straw. Harvesting occurs every four months, with five or six leaves taken from each plant at each cut. The plants are not irrigated, but it’s worth noting that the soil around Laguna de Bay is quite moist, with the water table near the surface and good seepage from nearby hills. It’s likely that the plants produce different amounts of leaves because some have significantly more branches than others, and the climatic and soil conditions impact the yield.
Preparation of the straw.—The best straw is prepared during the dry season, because at this time there is sufficient sunshine to produce a good colored material. As a consequence the workers prepare a large quantity at that season and store it in or under their houses, wrapped in mats.
Preparing the straw.—The best straw is made during the dry season because there’s plenty of sunshine to create a good quality material. As a result, workers make a large amount during this time and store it in or under their houses, wrapped in mats.
The leaves used are about 2 meters in length and 6 cm. in width. The central thorns on the back of the leaves are removed by cutting away the midrib. Two lengths about an inch in width are thus produced from which the outer rows of thorns may or may not be removed, according to custom. The lengths thus obtained are left in the sunshine and wind for about half a day to render them more flexible, after which they are cut into straws. For this purpose there is used an instrument consisting of a narrow wooden handle about 2½ cm. wide at the base, into which narrow sharp teeth, usually of steel, are set. [69]Brass and even hard woods can be used for teeth. The point of the segment being cut off, the base is grasped in one hand, the inside of the segment being turned toward the operator. The comb-like instrument is forced into it about 4 cm. from the end of the base and the teeth are held against the first finger by pressure of the thumb. The leaf length is then drawn up by the other hand and is cut into straws depending in width upon the fineness of the comb used. If the leaves are too young they will break in this process. The stripped segments are then usually tied up into bundles as large around as the fist, and hung in some shaded place exposed to the wind. The length of time occupied by this process varies. In some places it is omitted, though it seems to be always carried out in Tanay. The bundles are then undone and the worker, holding the uncut base of each length in one hand, runs the straw between his fingers and the sharp edged ruler-like piece of bamboo held in the other. This is done several times and results in the removal of considerable moisture, the prevention of wrinkling, and greater pliability of the straw.
The leaves used are about 2 meters long and 6 cm wide. The central thorns on the back of the leaves are removed by cutting away the midrib. Two strips about an inch wide are produced from this, from which the outer rows of thorns may or may not be taken off, depending on tradition. The strips obtained are left in the sun and wind for about half a day to make them more flexible; after that, they are cut into straws. For this, a tool is used that has a narrow wooden handle about 2.5 cm wide at the base, into which narrow sharp teeth, usually made of steel, are attached. Brass and even hard woods can be used for the teeth. With the point of the segment being cut off, the base is held in one hand, the inside of the segment facing the worker. The comb-like tool is pushed into it about 4 cm from the end of the base, with the teeth pressed against the first finger by the thumb. The length of the leaf is then pulled up with the other hand and cut into straws, depending on the fineness of the comb used. If the leaves are too young, they will break during this process. The stripped segments are usually tied into bundles as thick as a fist and hung in a shaded area where the wind can reach them. The duration of this process varies. In some places, it is skipped, though it always seems to be done in Tanay. The bundles are then untied, and the worker, holding the uncut base of each length in one hand, runs the straw between his fingers and a sharp-edged, ruler-like piece of bamboo held in the other hand. This is repeated several times and helps remove excess moisture, prevents wrinkling, and increases the pliability of the straw.

Plate XL. Weaving sabutan mat, Tanay, Rizal.
Plate XL. Weaving sabutan mat, Tanay, Rizal.
There are several variations in the processes followed for boiling sabutan. In the Province of Laguna a fistful of the stripped lengths with bases still attached are rolled up into a bundle and placed in fresh water in order to remove the coloring matter—in some places in clear, running river water, in other places in a can of clean, fresh water—for about twenty-four hours; the water is changed several times. In the last method the process is discontinued when the water remains clear. Bundles [70]are then placed in cold vinegar, water or lemon water to which green tamarind fruit has been added to make the color of the straw lighter and to toughen it; the water is brought to a boil. Bamboo is used as fuel, as that fire is not so hot as a wood fire. The length of time required for cooking differs. One good authority states that it should be stopped when the odor of sabutan can no longer be detected in the vapor, which occurs after about fifteen minutes boiling. This authority also states that the straw should be removed when it takes on a reddish hue. Many women put the straw into clear boiling water to which nothing has been added. After this process the straw is allowed to cool, is washed several times in clean, fresh water and is spread in the sun to dry, whereupon it assumes a gray color. If there is no sun the cool straw must be kept in fresh water which is changed every twelve hours until the sun appears. If a greenish shade is obtained the process has not been correctly carried out. Straw from dark green, thick, old leaves, or from those grown in the sun, is often reddish brown in color.
There are several variations in the methods used for boiling sabutan. In Laguna Province, a handful of the stripped lengths with their bases still attached are rolled into a bundle and placed in fresh water to remove the color—sometimes in clear, running river water, other times in a can of clean, fresh water—for about twenty-four hours, with the water changed several times. In the last method, the process stops when the water stays clear. Bundles [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] are then placed in cold vinegar, water, or lemon water with green tamarind fruit added to lighten the straw's color and toughen it; the water is then brought to a boil. Bamboo is used as fuel because its fire isn’t as hot as a wood fire. The cooking time varies. One expert says to stop when the scent of sabutan is no longer detectable in the steam, which usually happens after about fifteen minutes of boiling. This expert also notes that the straw should be taken out when it turns a reddish hue. Many women simply put the straw in clear boiling water without adding anything. After this, the straw is left to cool, washed several times in clean, fresh water, and laid out in the sun to dry, which turns it gray. If there’s no sun, the cool straw must be kept in fresh water, changing it every twelve hours until the sun comes out. If a greenish tint appears, it means the process wasn't done correctly. Straw from dark green, thick, old leaves, or from those grown in the sun, often ends up reddish-brown.
The boiling processes noted are those used in the preparation of straw for mats. The process followed in Tanay has been described by Mr. Amado Simpoco, principal of the Tanay Central School. The stripped lengths, after being wilted and drawn over the sharp edged piece of bamboo, are made up into fist bundles, tied at the middle and placed in a large copper pot 61 cm. in diameter and 84 cm. in depth and containing about 25 bundles. The pot is filled with water and the sabutan is boiled for 24 hours, care being taken that the straw is always covered. After boiling, the bundles are removed and untied and the strips are hung in the shade or in the house to cool; afterwards they are placed in the river for a day and are then washed carefully and dried thoroughly in the sun. The gray straw thus obtained is stored in bundles, still attached to the uncut bases, and is left in the air for three or four nights before it is woven into mats.
The boiling processes mentioned are those used to prepare straw for mats. The method used in Tanay has been described by Mr. Amado Simpoco, principal of the Tanay Central School. The stripped lengths, after being wilted and brushed over a sharp-edged piece of bamboo, are formed into fist-sized bundles, tied in the middle, and placed in a large copper pot that is 61 cm in diameter and 84 cm deep, holding about 25 bundles. The pot is filled with water and the sabutan straw is boiled for 24 hours, ensuring the straw is always submerged. After boiling, the bundles are removed, untied, and the strips are hung in the shade or inside to cool; afterward, they are placed in the river for a day, then washed carefully and thoroughly dried in the sun. The gray straw obtained is stored in bundles, still attached to the uncut bases, and left in the air for three or four nights before it is woven into mats.
Dyeing sabutan.—Mr. Simpoco has also made a careful study of the methods used in Tanay in dyeing sabutan straw, and the results of his efforts are presented here.
Dyeing sabutan.—Mr. Simpoco has also thoroughly investigated the techniques used in Tanay for dyeing sabutan straw, and his findings are shared here.
Red orange: For the production of red orange straw the gray material, prepared as outlined above, is first treated by steeping in water containing kolis leaves and twigs. The leaves and chopped twigs are pounded in a mortar and are placed together with the sabutan in a large receptacle capable of containing from 25 to 30 bundles, filled with water. The material is allowed to remain in the receptacle for four days. Early in the morning of the fifth day the straw is removed and hung in a shaded [71]place until dry and is made up into bundles tied tightly at the larger end.
Red orange: To create red orange straw, the prepared gray material is first soaked in water with kolis leaves and twigs. The leaves and cut twigs are crushed in a mortar and then combined with the sabutan in a large container that can hold 25 to 30 bundles, filled with water. This mixture is left in the container for four days. On the morning of the fifth day, the straw is taken out and hung in a shaded [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]location until it dries, then bundled and tightly tied at the larger end.
The dye fluid is carefully prepared. Chips of sappan are boiled in a large copper pot for one day. A quantity of turmeric roots and annatto seeds are pounded separately in mortars until they are reduced to a very fine state. These are then separately treated with water and pressed, the result being a turmeric water and an annatto water. These two are mixed and poured into the boiling sappan. After about 25 minutes the bundles of sabutan are placed in the pot and the whole is allowed to boil until every part of the fiber is uniformly colored. After having been boiled sufficiently, the bundles are removed and placed in a large basket, later to be dried in the shade. They are left in the night air for three or four nights and are then rolled up in coarse mats. The shades procured vary with the proportions of the dye materials used. Some are a decided orange, others are light yellow.
The dye solution is carefully made. Sappan chips are boiled in a large copper pot for a whole day. Turmeric roots and annatto seeds are pounded separately in mortars until they're very fine. These are then each mixed with water and pressed, resulting in turmeric water and annatto water. The two are blended together and added to the boiling sappan. After about 25 minutes, the bundles of sabutan are placed in the pot, and everything is left to boil until the fiber is evenly colored. Once boiled enough, the bundles are taken out and put into a large basket to dry in the shade. They are left in the night air for three or four nights before being rolled in coarse mats. The colors achieved vary based on the amounts of dye materials used, with some being a strong orange and others a light yellow.
Yellow: Yellow straw is produced in the same manner, using turmeric and annatto only.
Yellow: Yellow straw is made in the same way, using just turmeric and annatto.
Red: In the production of red straw the bundles are treated with kolis leaves in the same manner as in the preliminary process for red-orange straw. In a pot capable of holding 25 fist bundles of sabutan, four gantas10 of finely chopped sappan are placed. Over this are placed 15 bundles of the straw, which in turn is covered with one ganta of chopped sappan. The remaining 10 bundles are then added and covered with still another ganta of sappan. The pot is filled with water and set over a fire for from twelve to fifteen hours. Care is taken that the bundles are always kept under the water and that all parts of the material are uniformly colored. The loss by evaporation is counterbalanced by adding water from time to time. When well colored, the straw is removed from the pot and placed in a large basket for a day and is then hung in the sunshine to be dried. It should be allowed to remain in the night air; when thoroughly dried it is rolled in coarse mats.
Red: To make red straw, the bundles are treated with kolis leaves the same way as in the initial steps for red-orange straw. In a pot that can hold 25 fist bundles of sabutan, four gantas10 of finely chopped sappan are added. Then, 15 bundles of straw are placed on top and covered with one ganta of chopped sappan. The remaining 10 bundles are added and covered with another ganta of sappan. The pot is filled with water and heated over a fire for twelve to fifteen hours. Care should be taken to keep the bundles submerged in water so that all parts are evenly colored. Any loss from evaporation is compensated by adding water as needed. Once well colored, the straw is taken out of the pot and placed in a large basket for a day, then hung in the sun to dry. It should remain in the night air, and when completely dry, it is rolled in coarse mats.
Black: Black straw, a warm dark gray, is prepared from the red material. Buds of bananas, leaves of kabling, talisay, camagon, and the castor plant are pounded in a mortar and are mixed with fine particles of black clay such as can be obtained from rice paddies. Sappan water, made by boiling sappan chips, is then added to the mixture and the entire mass is placed in a large receptacle for a day. Red straw is put into this mixture [72]and allowed to remain for two days. It is removed on the third day and again returned to the mixture on the fourth day. On the fifth day the straw is finally removed and placed in the sun, being kept in the air at night.
Black: Black straw, a warm dark gray, is made from the red material. Banana buds, kabling leaves, talisay, camagon, and the castor plant are pounded in a mortar and combined with fine particles of black clay that can be found in rice paddies. Sappan water, created by boiling sappan chips, is then mixed in, and the whole mixture is left in a large container for a day. Red straw is added to this mixture [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] and it is allowed to sit for two days. It is taken out on the third day and put back into the mixture on the fourth day. Finally, on the fifth day, the straw is removed and placed in the sun, remaining in the air at night.
Coal tar dyes are used in the production of green and purple straws. These are purchased from the Chinese stores. The prepared gray fiber is also employed with these dyes. The usual method of boiling in a tin can until the desired shade is obtained, is followed. The straw is dried in the sun and kept in the night air. Colors produced are not so uniform or so satisfactory as the others described and are seldom used.
Coal tar dyes are used to create green and purple straws. They can be bought at Chinese stores. The prepared gray fiber is also used with these dyes. The common method involves boiling in a tin can until the desired color is achieved. The straw is then dried in the sun and left out in the cool night air. The colors produced are not as consistent or satisfactory as the others mentioned and are rarely used.

Plate XLI. Pandan of Majayjay.
Plate 41. Pandan of Majayjay.
Weaving the mats.—Before weaving the mat the worker runs the straw over the ruler-like piece of bamboo as already explained, and removes the uncut base to which it has been attached during the various processes of preparation, bleaching, and dyeing. One side of the mat is first woven the entire length, and is finished by having the edges turned in. This edge is then placed in a slit made in a narrow stick of wood and is tied in place with strips of sabutan straw running around the stick and through the mat. The mat is allowed to remain attached to this stick until it has been completely woven. As weaving proceeds, the finished part is rolled up on the stick, thus being out of the way of the weaver. This arrangement also serves to keep the mat in position during weaving and prevents it from getting out of shape. Single straws are used and consequently the mat has a right and a wrong side.11 The most expensive mats, which are seldom made, are double and of very fine material. [73]
Weaving the mats.—Before starting to weave the mat, the worker runs the straw over a bamboo piece that looks like a ruler, as explained earlier, and removes the uncut base that it was attached to during the steps of preparation, bleaching, and dyeing. One side of the mat is woven for its entire length first and is finished by folding in the edges. This edge is then placed in a slit in a narrow stick of wood and tied in place with strips of sabutan straw wrapped around the stick and through the mat. The mat stays attached to this stick until it's completely woven. As the weaving continues, the finished part is rolled up on the stick, keeping it out of the way of the weaver. This setup also helps keep the mat in position during weaving and prevents it from losing its shape. Single straws are used, giving the mat a right side and a wrong side. 11 The most expensive mats, which are rarely made, are double and made of very fine material. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
The extension and cultivation of sabutan.—For a number of years there has been an increasing interest throughout the Philippines in the propagation of sabutan. Teachers in various places have procured suckers from the towns along the east coast of Laguna de Bay, and have planted them out with the idea of having their own industrial material close at hand. Many of these attempts have been failures, since not enough information had been obtained concerning the soil and moisture conditions necessary for the cultivation of the plant. The Bureau of Education has therefore gathered as much information as possible on the cultivation of sabutan, based upon the experience of various persons who have attempted planting it.
The extension and cultivation of sabutan.—For several years now, there has been a growing interest across the Philippines in the propagation of sabutan. Teachers in various areas have obtained suckers from towns along the east coast of Laguna de Bay, planting them in hopes of having their own industrial material readily available. Many of these efforts have failed because there wasn't enough information on the soil and moisture conditions needed for the plant's cultivation. The Bureau of Education has therefore collected as much information as possible on sabutan cultivation, based on the experiences of various individuals who have tried planting it.
It has been found that, in those regions having a dry season, the suckers should be planted early in the rainy season so that they may become well rooted before the rains stop, or else water should be provided through irrigation ditches. In nearly all cases it has been reported that the loss of plants resulted from lack of water at the planting period.
It has been found that in areas with a dry season, suckers should be planted early in the rainy season so they can establish strong roots before the rains end, or water should be supplied through irrigation ditches. In almost all cases, it has been reported that plant loss was due to a lack of water during the planting period.
It is reported that difficulty is found in making the suckers live if planted in the sun, but that, when well established, those so planted grow and produce suckers better. As has been previously noted, no special attempt is made to set the plants out in either the sun or shade in the towns around Laguna de Bay, but all weavers state that leaves grown in the shade are the best for industrial purposes.
It’s been said that it’s hard to keep the suckers alive if they’re planted in the sun, but once they’re well established, those that are planted in the sun grow and produce suckers better. As mentioned before, there’s no specific effort to plant the plants in either sun or shade in the towns around Laguna de Bay, but all the weavers agree that leaves grown in the shade are the best for industrial use.
Sabutan plants need a moist but well drained soil. They should be set out about a meter apart each way (that is, the rows one meter apart and plants one meter apart in the row), since they spread out considerably when they become older. Where sufficient moisture does not exist, irrigation should be provided. If it is decided to shade the suckers, plants such as the papaya, having long roots rather than surface roots, are best. No sabutan plants should be planted within 6 feet of the papaya.
Sabutan plants need moist, well-drained soil. They should be spaced about a meter apart in every direction (that is, the rows one meter apart and plants one meter apart in the row) since they spread out significantly as they mature. If there isn't enough moisture, irrigation should be provided. If you choose to shade the suckers, plants like papaya, which have deep roots instead of surface roots, work best. No sabutan plants should be planted within 6 feet of the papaya.
It is probable that with cultivation the plants will yield leaves suitable for straw in from one and one-half to two years, the time to mature depending upon the conditions noted in the preceding paragraphs.12 [74]
It’s likely that with cultivation, the plants will produce leaves suitable for straw in about one and a half to two years, with the time to maturity depending on the conditions mentioned in the previous paragraphs.12 [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Sabutan types.—In several places in the Philippines there are pandans which yield leaves similar to those of sabutan. It is probable that none of these are the true sabutan. The most important one is that growing along the northeastern shore of Tayabas Province. Mats are made at both Casiguran and Baler, and enter to a small extent, the interprovincial trade with neighboring provinces. It is stated, however, that these regions abound in the species of pandan from which the mats are made. Sabutan type mats are also reported made at Palanan in Isabela Province, and a trade is carried on in them with neighboring towns.
Sabutan types.—In various locations in the Philippines, there are types of pandan that produce leaves similar to those of sabutan. However, it's likely that none of these are the actual sabutan. The most significant one is found along the northeastern coast of Tayabas Province. Mats are produced in both Casiguran and Baler, and they are somewhat traded with nearby provinces. It is said, though, that these areas are rich in the species of pandan from which the mats are made. Sabutan-type mats are also reported to be made in Palanan, Isabela Province, and there is trade of them with nearby towns.
Other pandans reported under the name of sabutan and resembling it more or less have no commercial importance.
Other pandans reported under the name of sabutan and resembling it to some extent have no commercial value.
Sarakat.
Sarakat is a distinctive pandan of the Bangui Peninsula of Ilocos Norte. The climate of this region differs from the rest of Ilocos Norte in that it has rainfall practically throughout the year, receiving as it does the benefit of the northeast monsoon which is cut off from the country to the south. It has not as yet been determined whether sarakat is to be described as a new variety of P. tectorius or is to be designated as an entirely new species.
Sarakat is a unique type of pandan found in the Bangui Peninsula of Ilocos Norte. The climate in this area is different from the rest of Ilocos Norte because it experiences rain nearly all year round, thanks to the northeast monsoon that doesn't affect the southern parts of the country. It's still unclear whether sarakat should be classified as a new variety of P. tectorius or as a completely new species.
From mats submitted to this office, it is to be judged that sarakat straw is as fine as sabutan. In fact, the material is so thin that even though the mats are woven of double straws they are no thicker, and are a good deal more pliable than all other commercial pandan mats, sabutan excepted, produced in the Philippines. The upper surface of pandan straw is glossy, and the under surface is rough. In making the double straw, the two rough surfaces are placed together so as to expose both glossy ones. Hence, unlike the sabutan, both sides of sarakat mats are similar in appearance. The material, however, is not so strong as sabutan.13
From the mats submitted to this office, it's clear that sarakat straw is as fine as sabutan. In fact, the material is so thin that even though the mats are woven from double straws, they are no thicker and are quite a bit more flexible than any other commercial pandan mats, except for sabutan, made in the Philippines. The top side of pandan straw is shiny, while the underside is rough. When making the double straw, the two rough surfaces are placed together to expose both shiny sides. Therefore, unlike sabutan, both sides of sarakat mats look the same. However, the material isn't as strong as sabutan.13
The mats are not decorated either by weaving in colored straws or by embroidered or border designs. In price they vary from about ₱1 to ₱2.
The mats aren’t decorated with colored straw weaving or any embroidery or border designs. They range in price from about ₱1 to ₱2.
Mr. Petronilo Castro, formerly Supervising Teacher of Bangui, has stated that that town supplies most of the mats used by the people of Ilocos Norte. Some buri mats and a few “pandan” mats (probably from the common seashore variety) are made. [75]The sarakat mats exceed those of pandan in numbers and in commercial importance and are more beautiful and stronger. The demand for the mats is great and many people are engaged exclusively in their fabrication.
Mr. Petronilo Castro, the former Supervising Teacher of Bangui, has mentioned that this town provides most of the mats used by the people of Ilocos Norte. Some buri mats and a few “pandan” mats (likely from the common seashore variety) are made. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] The sarakat mats outnumber the pandan ones and are more commercially significant, as well as being more beautiful and durable. There’s a high demand for these mats, and many people are dedicated solely to making them.
The Pandan of Majayjay.14

Plate XLII. Fruit of Pandanus utilissimus (Majayjay).
Plate XLII. Fruit of Pandanus utilissimus (Majayjay).
This pandan (P. utilissimus) is known in most places where it grows as “pandan” or “pandan totoo,” the true or tame pandan. It is extensively used in Laguna and Tayabas and is remarkable for its very large leaves and its heavy fruit. The tree occurs in groups in dry ground but thrives best in half shade near streams. It attains a height of from 4 to 8 meters. The trunk branches toward the top and is supported by a few short and thick prop roots.
This pandan (P. utilissimus) is commonly called “pandan” or “pandan totoo,” referring to the true or tame pandan. It's widely used in Laguna and Tayabas and is notable for its large leaves and heavy fruit. The tree grows in clusters on dry land but does best in partial shade near streams. It can reach heights of 4 to 8 meters. The trunk branches near the top and is supported by several short, thick prop roots.
The leaves are often 5 meters long and 2 decimeters wide. The lower part of the older leaves stands up straight, while the upper half droops. The younger leaves are erect with only their tips bent down. The leaf spines are short, blunt, and conical.
The leaves are usually 5 meters long and 20 centimeters wide. The bottom part of the older leaves stands upright, while the top half droops. The younger leaves are upright with just their tips bending down. The leaf spines are short, blunt, and cone-shaped.
The fruits look like the jackfruit and are very large and heavy, being often 6 decimeters long and 2 decimeters in diameter and weighing at times 25 or more kilograms. The drupes ripen slowly and gradually; they are red in color when fully mature and possess a peculiar faint odor. It takes some time before all the drupes are shed, and in a grove of fruiting trees they can be found in all stages of maturity during the month of May.
The fruits resemble the jackfruit and are quite large and heavy, often measuring 60 centimeters long and 20 centimeters in diameter, sometimes weighing over 25 kilograms. The drupes ripen slowly and gradually; they turn red when fully mature and have a unique, faint smell. It takes a while for all the drupes to fall off, so in a grove of fruiting trees, you can find them at all stages of maturity throughout May.
P. utilissimus is found growing wild throughout the plateau region of Majayjay, Luisiana, and Cavinti in Laguna Province, and extending into Tayabas Province. It is only the leaves from those plants which have been set out in plots, however, that [76]are utilized in the making of mats, hats and telescope baskets. Like sabutan, this pandan grows best in the half-shade near streams, and leaves grown in the sun are considered inferior. Nevertheless, no attempt seems to be made to select a locality for their propagation, and plots are planted wherever land is available. This pandan will not live in stagnant water and is particularly adapted to hill-sides where there is a constant flow.
P. utilissimus can be found growing wild across the plateau region of Majayjay, Luisiana, and Cavinti in Laguna Province, and extending into Tayabas Province. However, only the leaves from plants that have been grown in designated plots are [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]used to make mats, hats, and telescope baskets. Like sabutan, this pandan thrives best in partial shade near streams, and leaves grown in direct sunlight are considered to be of lower quality. Despite this, there doesn’t seem to be any effort to choose specific locations for planting, and plots are established wherever land is available. This pandan cannot survive in stagnant water and is particularly suited to hilly areas with a constant flow of water.
The most satisfactory statistics on the propagation of P. utilissimus are obtained from Cavinti, where the plant has been introduced within recent years and suckers are still being brought in from other towns. It is stated that suckers one-half meter in height mature in about three years, while suckers one meter in height or over will produce suitable leaves in one year or less. The most satisfactory results are obtained by transplanting the mature plants, since leaves are obtainable in a few months and in half a year suckers large enough for transplanting are produced. It is stated that in setting the plants out, the undergrowth is cleared away and the suckers are placed in the ground about 1½ meters apart. Some attention is given to the young plants such as loosening the earth around them; but as soon as they obtain a good foothold no cultivation is attempted.
The best statistics on the growth of P. utilissimus come from Cavinti, where the plant has been introduced in recent years and suckers are still being brought in from other towns. It's reported that suckers half a meter tall mature in about three years, while suckers one meter tall or more will produce suitable leaves in a year or less. The best results come from transplanting mature plants, as leaves can be harvested in just a few months, and in six months, suckers large enough for transplanting are produced. It is noted that when planting them, the undergrowth is cleared, and the suckers are spaced about 1½ meters apart. Some care is given to the young plants, like loosening the soil around them; but once they get established, no further cultivation is done.

Plate XLIII. Rolling pandan, Majayjay, Laguna.
Plate XLIII. Rolling pandan, Majayjay, Laguna.
Usually weavers own their patch of pandan from which the leaves are obtained for making the straw. Several workers sometimes have a patch in common and the few weavers who do not own pandans themselves must purchase. The leaves are sold on the tree, the purchaser cutting them off with a bolo. The price is from 20 to 30 centavos per hundred, depending [77]upon their size, softness, thickness, and imperfections. The longest, thinnest, darkest green leaves, with the fewest imperfections, are considered the best and cost the most. In Cavinti, where the leaves are imported from Luisiana and Majayjay, the price of the best leaves is 50 centavos per hundred. The estimates of the number of leaves yielded by a plant in a year differ considerably. By some it is stated that on the average one leaf is produced per month; others report that from three to five leaves are gathered in from three to six weeks.
Weavers usually have their own patch of pandan for harvesting leaves to make straw. Sometimes multiple workers share a patch, and those few weavers without their own pandan need to buy leaves. The leaves are sold still attached to the tree, and the buyer cuts them off with a bolo. Prices range from 20 to 30 centavos per hundred, depending on the leaves' size, softness, thickness, and imperfections. The longest, thinnest, darkest green leaves with the fewest flaws are the most desirable and expensive. In Cavinti, where leaves are sourced from Luisiana and Majayjay, the best leaves cost 50 centavos per hundred. Estimates on how many leaves a plant produces in a year vary widely. Some say that, on average, one leaf is produced each month; others claim that three to five leaves can be collected within three to six weeks.
The thorns are removed from the edges, and the midrib is cut away, thus reducing the leaf into two halves, each of which is again divided. These strips are placed in the sun for half a day. The unique process in the preparation of this pandan straw is the rolling which occurs at this point. While it is probable that any roller with sufficient weight could be used, that employed in the pandan districts of Laguna is the primitive “iluhan” by which sugar-cane and copra are also crushed. It consists essentially of three heavy wooden horses, in the grooves of which a log, heavily weighted with stones, rotates. The pandan lengths are placed in one of the grooves underneath the log and so rolled. The object of the process is to make the material thinner and more pliable. Straw is stripped from the lengths thus prepared by the use of the gauge.15 The straw is then further dried in the sunshine and is ready to be woven. Sometimes the lengths are stripped before being rolled, hence the straw is left in the sunshine for another half day and then placed under the log in the iluhan.
The thorns are removed from the edges, and the midrib is cut away, reducing the leaf into two halves, each of which is then divided again. These strips are laid out in the sun for half a day. The unique part of preparing this pandan straw is the rolling that happens at this stage. While any heavy roller could likely be used, in the pandan-growing areas of Laguna, they use a traditional tool called the “iluhan,” which is also used for crushing sugar cane and copra. It basically consists of three heavy wooden supports, where a log, weighted down with stones, rotates in the grooves. The pandan strips are placed in one of the grooves under the log to be rolled. The goal of this process is to make the material thinner and more flexible. Straw is stripped from the prepared lengths using a gauge.15 The straw is then dried further in the sun and is ready for weaving. Sometimes the lengths are stripped before rolling, so the straw is left in the sun for another half day before being placed under the log in the iluhan.
Mats are woven in Majayjay and Luisiana only, the weavers of Cavinti devoting their entire time to the fabrication of hats. The mats are woven of single straw, but they are fairly thick and not at all limber. The number produced per week runs probably into the thousands, of which about 75 per cent are made of coarse straw and are intended for use in drying palay, copra, etc. These mats are known as “bangkoan,” a word having about the same significance as “bastos;” that is, coarsely or poorly made. The finer and better made mats are intended for use as sleeping mats and for the floor. They are decorated with colored buri straw, usually in some shade of red produced by mordanting with kolis leaves and boiling with sappan wood as explained for buri straw. Occasionally, other colors are used, produced from the imported coal-tar (“Chino”) dyes, but in all cases the shades produced are not very pleasing. The decorations [78]are embroidered in, and consist of simple borders in straight lines with an open center design of somewhat the same pattern. When first woven, the mats are usually of a dark green color. Before being sold, they are placed in the sun, which changes them to a grayish color somewhat resembling sabutan. After long use, however, the final shade is yellowish green.
Mats are woven only in Majayjay and Luisiana, while the weavers in Cavinti focus entirely on making hats. The mats are made from single straw, but they're quite thick and not very flexible. The production per week likely reaches into the thousands, with about 75 percent made from coarse straw for drying palay, copra, and other goods. These mats are called “bangkoan,” which is similar in meaning to “bastos,” indicating they're coarsely or poorly made. The finer mats are meant for sleeping and as floor coverings. They feature decorations made of colored buri straw, typically in shades of red that come from treating kolis leaves and boiling with sappan wood, as described for buri straw. Occasionally, other colors from imported coal-tar (“Chino”) dyes are used, but these colors usually aren't very attractive. The decorations [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]are stitched in and consist of simple borderlines with an open center design that follows a similar pattern. When first made, the mats are typically dark green. Before being sold, they're placed in the sun, which turns them a grayish color somewhat similar to sabutan. After extensive use, the final color becomes a yellowish green.
There seems to be but little division of labor in the production of these mats. Usually the whole family goes out into the patch and cuts the leaves, removing the thorns before bringing them home. Only women weave the mats. In Majayjay a few workers color their own buri straw used in decorating the mats, but for the most part this material is obtained from dyers, one a Chinese, the other a Filipino, who prepare it for sale.
There doesn't seem to be much division of labor in making these mats. Usually, the entire family goes out to the patch to cut the leaves, removing the thorns before bringing them home. Only women weave the mats. In Majayjay, a few workers dye their own buri straw for decorating the mats, but for the most part, this material is sourced from dyers, one being Chinese and the other Filipino, who prepare it for sale.
The weavers are independent of advances by brokers and sell their product to Filipinos or to the representatives of Chinese merchants in Pagsanjan and Manila. A few weavers take their mats to Lukban, whence they are distributed over Tayabas Province, but many more are gathered up by these brokers and sold in the market at Pagsanjan. The mat market there usually occupies one whole sidewalk running the length of the market building.
The weavers work independently of broker advances and sell their products either to Filipinos or to representatives of Chinese merchants in Pagsanjan and Manila. Some weavers take their mats to Lukban, from where they are spread across Tayabas Province, but many more are collected by brokers and sold in the market at Pagsanjan. The mat market there typically takes up an entire sidewalk along the length of the market building.
The pandan mats of Majayjay and Luisiana are notable for their strength and durability, and are excellent for the floor or bath. In price they range from ₱0.50 to ₱5.00. The usual price of the decorated mats is ₱1.50. The demand continues brisk and prices have recently risen. The weakest point in the mat at the present time is in the colored buri straw used to decorate it, for this tears long before the pandan shows signs of wear. If colored sabutan straw is substituted for the buri, a much stronger and probably more pleasing article will result.16
The pandan mats from Majayjay and Luisiana are known for their strength and durability, making them great for floors or bathrooms. They range in price from ₱0.50 to ₱5.00, with decorated mats typically costing around ₱1.50. Demand is still high, and prices have gone up recently. Right now, the weakest spot in the mats is the colored buri straw used for decoration, as it tends to tear long before the pandan shows any wear. If colored sabutan straw replaces the buri, the result will be a much stronger and likely more attractive product.16
Karagumoy.17
The pandan P. simplex, known as “karagumoy” or “carogumoy,” is the economic pandan of the Bicol peninsula in southern Luzon. It is usually found growing in well drained soil under the shade of banana and abaca plants and areca palms. It needs this protection because the leaves are easily broken or ruined by hard winds. The leaves are generally longer than those of sabutan (they are 2 meters to 3½ meters in length) and [79]are but from 6 cm. to 10 cm. wide. They are very thick, being practically as coarse as the leaves of P. utilissimus. They bear stout spines on the midrib and along the margins, from two centimeters to three centimeters apart. A fungus disease often attacks them, causing dry hard patches, and not only spoiling the color but also making the material so brittle that it breaks in the preparation of the straw.
The pandan P. simplex, known as “karagumoy” or “carogumoy,” is the main economic pandan of the Bicol peninsula in southern Luzon. It usually grows in well-drained soil, shaded by banana, abaca plants, and areca palms. This shade is necessary because the leaves can easily be damaged by strong winds. The leaves are generally longer than those of sabutan, ranging from 2 to 3.5 meters in length and [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] are about 6 to 10 cm wide. They are very thick, almost as coarse as the leaves of P. utilissimus. They have sturdy spines on the midrib and edges, spaced 2 to 3 cm apart. A fungal disease often attacks them, causing dry, hard patches that not only ruin the color but also make the material so brittle that it breaks during straw preparation.
The plant is propagated by means of suckers in patches seldom over a half hectare in extent and often consisting of a few plants back of the house. The suckers are set out in rows and are probably one year old when the first leaves are taken, though the workers disagree on this point. At a specified time, from eight to fifteen leaves are cut from the plant each year; at other periods, two or three may be taken from the same plants. Most of the leaves are harvested during the rainy season. Karagumoy leaves have a commercial value in many of the places in which the plant occurs. In Tabaco, Albay, women cut the leaves and carry them in large bundles to the market, where they are sold at prices usually varying from 8 to 12 centavos per hundred.
The plant is grown using suckers in patches that are rarely larger than half a hectare and often consist of just a few plants behind the house. The suckers are planted in rows and are probably about a year old when the first leaves are harvested, though the workers have differing opinions on this. Each year, at a designated time, eight to fifteen leaves are cut from the plant; at other times, two or three can be taken from the same plants. Most leaves are collected during the rainy season. Karagumoy leaves are commercially valuable in many areas where the plant grows. In Tabaco, Albay, women cut the leaves and carry them in large bundles to the market, where they are sold for prices that usually range from 8 to 12 centavos per hundred.

Plate XLIV. Karagumoy.
Plate XLIV. Karagumoy.
Throughout the Province of Albay mats are made from karagumoy, and in some towns the industry is of considerable importance. For instance, in the barrio of San Lorenzo in Tabaco, mats may be found in the making in nearly every house. In Sorsogon, too, the industry is widespread though not so important commercially. In Balusa the production is large enough to supply the local demand and leave a surplus for export to neighboring towns. In the Bicol provinces karagumoy is considered the best of all straws for the production of mats. In price the mats vary from thirty to ninety centavos, according to fineness.
Throughout the Province of Albay, mats are made from karagumoy, and in some towns, this industry is quite significant. For example, in the barrio of San Lorenzo in Tabaco, mats are being made in almost every house. In Sorsogon, the industry is also common, although it’s not as commercially important. In Balusa, the production is large enough to meet local demand and still have a surplus for export to nearby towns. In the Bicol provinces, karagumoy is regarded as the best straw for making mats. The prices of mats range from thirty to ninety centavos, depending on their quality.
In preparing the material, the spines and midrib are first removed and the leaves are divided into four strips of about equal [80]width. The straw is prepared from these with the knife and gauge; it is dried in the shade for a few hours and drawn several times over a piece of bamboo as explained for sabutan in order to make it more supple and smooth. The mats are woven in the early morning and at night, the straw being more pliable then. Attempts have been made in the schools to dye karagumoy but no success has yet been attained. The mats are plain.
In preparing the material, the spines and midrib are first removed, and the leaves are cut into four strips of roughly equal [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]width. The straw is made from these using a knife and gauge; it is dried in the shade for a few hours and then drawn several times over a piece of bamboo, as explained for sabutan, to make it more flexible and smooth. The mats are woven in the early morning and at night when the straw is more pliable. Schools have tried to dye karagumoy but haven't been successful yet. The mats are plain.
Bariu.
The stem of this plant, P. copelandii, grows from 4 to 9 meters high. The leaves have an average length of 2.1 meter and a width of 8 cm.18 Spines occur along the entire margin. Near the base they are comparatively coarse and from 3 to 4 mm. long. Towards the apex of the margins and midveins, the spines are short and close together like the teeth of a fine saw. From 3 to 5 heads generally form on the fruit stalk, each of them from 7 to 12 cm. long and 5 to 7 cm. across, at first pale yellowish in appearance but soon turning red. Their drupes are 14 mm. long and 3 to 4 mm. in diameter. This pandan is found in Cagayan, Benguet, Nueva Ecija, Samar, Bohol, Occidental Negros, Capiz, Surigao, Davao, and other provinces.19
The stem of this plant, P. copelandii, grows between 4 and 9 meters high. The leaves are on average 2.1 meters long and 8 cm wide. Spines run along the entire edge. Near the base, they are relatively coarse and measure about 3 to 4 mm long. Towards the tips of the edges and midveins, the spines are shorter and packed closely together like the teeth of a fine saw. Typically, 3 to 5 heads form on the fruit stalk, each measuring 7 to 12 cm long and 5 to 7 cm wide, initially appearing pale yellow but soon turning red. Their drupes are 14 mm long and 3 to 4 mm in diameter. This pandan is found in Cagayan, Benguet, Nueva Ecija, Samar, Bohol, Occidental Negros, Capiz, Surigao, Davao, and other provinces.
This pandan is not of economic importance in central and southern Luzon. In the Bicol provinces it is used to some extent but it is considered inferior to other materials. In parts of the Visayas, such as Bohol, Capiz and Samar, it is utilized to a considerable extent, but cannot be considered of commercial importance. It is the economic pandan of Surigao, but even there its commercial importance is local only.
This pandan isn't economically important in central and southern Luzon. In the Bicol provinces, it’s used somewhat, but it's viewed as inferior to other materials. In parts of the Visayas, like Bohol, Capiz, and Samar, it's used quite a bit, but it can't be considered commercially significant. It's the main economic pandan in Surigao, but even there, its commercial value is only local.
Table showing comparative measurements of certain Philippine pandans.
P. tectorius. | Sabutan. | P. utilissimus. | P. simplex. | P. copelandii. | |
Height of trunk | 3 to 6 m | 2 to 4 m | 4 to 8 m | 6 m | 4 m. |
Leaves: | |||||
Length | 1.35 m | 2 m | 5 m | 2 to 3.5 m | 2.1 m. |
Width | 6 cm | 6 cm | 20 cm | 6 to 10 cm | 8 cm. |
Thickness | Medium | Fine | Thick | Thick | Medium. |
Fruit: | |||||
Length | 20 cm | 60 cm | 9 cm | 7 to 12 cm. | |
Thickness | 18 cm | 20 cm | 9 cm | 5 to 7 cm. | |
Drupes— | |||||
Length | 5.5 cm | 7 to 8 cm | 3 cm | 14 mm. | |
Thickness | 2.5 to 3 cm | 2 cm | 1 cm | 3 to 4 mm. | |
Number in head | 50 to 80 | Many | Many | Many. |
[81]
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Pandans of Minor Utility.
The species P. radicans is reported as olango from Leyte, wañgo in Bohol, owañgo in Surigao and uyagño in Sorsogon. It is usually found growing along rivers and in marshes. The trunk reaches a height of 8 m. and its largest leaves may be 6 m. long and 12 cm. wide. There are from 6 to 10 dark brick red fruits in a cluster. The fruit is 14 cm. long and 8 cm. wide and contains 100 or more drupes. Each drupe is 2.5 cm. in length and 12 mm. in diameter. The leaves are made into straw from which coarse mats are woven.
The species P. radicans is known as olango in Leyte, wañgo in Bohol, owañgo in Surigao, and uyagño in Sorsogon. It typically grows near rivers and in marshes. The trunk can reach a height of 8 m, and its largest leaves can be 6 m long and 12 cm wide. There are 6 to 10 dark brick-red fruits in a cluster. Each fruit is 14 cm long and 8 cm wide, containing 100 or more drupes. Each drupe measures 2.5 cm in length and 12 mm in diameter. The leaves are made into straw, which is used to weave coarse mats.

Plate XLV. Weaving a karagumoy mat, Tabaco, Albay.
Plate XLV. Weaving a karagumoy mat, Tabaco, Albay.
Taboan is the name given to Pandanus dubius in Surigao while in Bohol it is known as bacong. It is a rare species. It is said to be a heavy, clumsy appearing tree with stem about 8 m. high, wide spreading branches near the top, and soft, pulpy and stringy wood. The flowers are grouped into an inflorescence. The male inflorescence, about 60 cm. long and partly covered by creamy yellow bracts, is erect and occurs at the end of the branches. The leaves are deep green in color on both sides, with an average length of 2.25 cm. and a width of 20 cm. The drupes of this pandan are from 8 cm. to 13 cm. long and from 5 cm. to 8 cm. wide. The plant is utilized to a small extent in making mats.
Taboan is what Pandanus dubius is called in Surigao, while in Bohol it’s known as bacong. It's a rare species. It's described as a heavy, clumsy-looking tree that grows about 8 meters high, with wide, spreading branches near the top and soft, pulpy, stringy wood. The flowers are arranged in a cluster. The male cluster is about 60 cm long and partially covered by creamy yellow bracts, growing upright at the ends of the branches. The leaves are deep green on both sides, averaging 2.25 cm in length and 20 cm in width. The drupes of this pandan range from 8 cm to 13 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide. The plant is used to a small extent for making mats.
In the Tagalog speaking provinces of Bulacan, Bataan, and in and around Manila, Pandanus luzonensis is called “alasas.” It is also called “pandan” but this name should be reserved for Pandanus tectorius. The former is restricted in its habitat to the provinces around Manila Bay, while the latter is found in most of the seacoast provinces of the Philippines as well as in other tropical parts of the world. Pandanus luzonensis attains a greater height than Pandanus tectorius, but has narrower leaves than the latter. The male flowers are borne in a fleshy, much-branched inflorescence from 20 to 30 cm. long. Each [82]branch is partly surrounded by a broad thin bract, 8 cm. wide. Each individual flower has from 4 to 9 stamens. The whole fruit is about 20 centimeters long and contains from 30 to 60 drupes, yellowish red in color when ripe. Each drupe is from 3 to 4 cm. long, 2 to 2.5 cm. thick, and contains from 6 to 10 seeds. The straw from this pandan is of inferior quality, though it is said to be used in Bulacan for mats.
In the Tagalog-speaking provinces of Bulacan, Bataan, and in and around Manila, Pandanus luzonensis is called “alasas.” It’s also referred to as “pandan,” but that name should be saved for Pandanus tectorius. The first species is only found in the areas around Manila Bay, while the second one grows in most coastal provinces of the Philippines and in other tropical regions of the world. Pandanus luzonensis grows taller than Pandanus tectorius, but has narrower leaves. The male flowers appear in a fleshy, branched cluster that’s between 20 to 30 cm long. Each [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]branch is partially enclosed by a wide, thin bract that is 8 cm across. Each flower has 4 to 9 stamens. The entire fruit measures about 20 centimeters long and holds 30 to 60 drupes, which turn yellowish-red when ripe. Each drupe is 3 to 4 cm long, 2 to 2.5 cm thick, and contains 6 to 10 seeds. The straw from this pandan is of lower quality, although it is claimed to be used in Bulacan for making mats.
Unidentified Pandans.
Besides the pandans, the identity of which has been explained above, there are several unidentified specimens or varieties from which mats are made. It may be that some of these will be found identical with those already discussed when sufficient botanical material has been gathered to determine them.
Besides the pandans, which have been explained above, there are several unidentified specimens or varieties used to make mats. It’s possible that some of these will turn out to be the same as those already discussed once enough botanical material has been collected to identify them.
In Isabela Province, a pandan known as “langu” having long, strong, thin leaves, is made into mats in Santa Maria, Delena and Bolasi.
In Isabela Province, a plant called "langu," which has long, strong, thin leaves, is used to make mats in Santa Maria, Delena, and Bolasi.
Mats are made along the coast of Cagayan Province, in the Ilocano barrios of the towns of Claveria and Sanchez Mira, from a pandan known as “pataga.” These are very coarse and thick and have an unusually shiny surface. According to Mr. Otto Harwood, the leaves vary in length from 10 cm. to 35.5 cm. and in width from 7.5 cm. to 15 cm. The straw is made by cutting the leaf into strips and drying them in the sun. Although the industry is yet small, it is developing.
Mats are produced along the coast of Cagayan Province, in the Ilocano neighborhoods of the towns of Claveria and Sanchez Mira, using a pandan known as “pataga.” These mats are quite coarse and thick, with an unusually shiny surface. According to Mr. Otto Harwood, the leaves range in length from 10 cm to 35.5 cm and in width from 7.5 cm to 15 cm. The straw is made by cutting the leaves into strips and drying them in the sun. Although the industry is still small, it is growing.
A species of pandan is employed in the towns of Camalaniugan, Aparri, Gataran, and Lal-loc in Cagayan Province for making mats. Locally they are valued at from 40 to 50 centavos, but in Isabela Province to which they are exported they sell for as high as a peso and a half.
A type of pandan is used in the towns of Camalaniugan, Aparri, Gataran, and Lal-loc in Cagayan Province to make mats. Locally, they sell for about 40 to 50 centavos, but in Isabela Province, where they are exported, they can go for as much as one peso and a half.
The only municipality in Pangasinan province in which the making of mats has reached provincial and interprovincial importance is Bolinao. The species of pandan employed is not known. The mats are shipped to towns along the seacoast of Ilocos and Zambales Province by sailing vessels, and are sold in the local markets or to local merchants.
The only municipality in Pangasinan province where mat-making has gained significance at both the provincial and interprovincial levels is Bolinao. The specific type of pandan used is unknown. The mats are transported to towns along the coast of Ilocos and Zambales Province by sailing boats and are sold in local markets or to nearby merchants.
In Mindoro the town of Subang makes pandan mats which are shipped to Batangas, Cavite, and Manila.
In Mindoro, the town of Subang produces pandan mats that are shipped to Batangas, Cavite, and Manila.

Plate XLVI. Philippine distribution of chief utilized pandans.
Plate XLVI. Distribution of main utilized pandan plants in the Philippines.
Two pandans, called lingo and baring were sent to the General Office of the Bureau of Education from Guindalman, Bohol. It was impossible to identify them as no fruit was included. They probably represent two new species. Lingo has a leaf 2.9 m. in length and of an almost uniform width of 5.5 cm. At 80 cm. from the tip, it is 4.5 cm. wide, then gradually becomes [84]acuminate. The marginal spines are 2 mm. long, curved forward, from 6 to 8 mm. apart near the stem, but closer together at the distal one-third of the leaf. Spines of 1 mm. or less in length and 4 mm. or less apart, curved forward and extending throughout the length of the leaf, occur on the lower surface of the midrib only. The surface of the leaf is smooth and shiny. The leaf of baring is 72 cm. long, 2.8 cm. wide, apparently spineless, smooth and fine in texture. Both of these pandans would probably yield good industrial materials.
Two pandan plants, named lingo and baring, were sent to the General Office of the Bureau of Education from Guindalman, Bohol. It was impossible to identify them since no fruit was included. They likely represent two new species. Lingo has a leaf that is 2.9 m long and about 5.5 cm wide. At 80 cm from the tip, it is 4.5 cm wide and then gradually becomes [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]tapered. The marginal spines are 2 mm long, curved forward, spaced 6 to 8 mm apart near the stem, but closer together at the distal one-third of the leaf. There are spines of 1 mm or less in length and 4 mm or less apart, also curved forward, extending throughout the length of the leaf, occurring only on the lower surface of the midrib. The surface of the leaf is smooth and shiny. The leaf of baring is 72 cm long, 2.8 cm wide, apparently without spines, smooth, and fine in texture. Both of these pandan plants would likely produce good industrial materials.
In Iloilo, the town of Banate has a pandan mat industry of interprovincial importance, whose product is an article of commerce as far as Negros. The mats sell at about 50 centavos each.
In Iloilo, the town of Banate has a pandan mat industry that is important across provinces, with its products being sold as far as Negros. The mats sell for about 50 centavos each.

Plate XLVII. A Moro mat.
Plate 47. A Moro mat.
There is a large export of pandan mats from Dao, Antique, to the province of Iloilo.
There is a significant export of pandan mats from Dao, Antique, to the province of Iloilo.
Pandan mats are exported from Cuyo Island in Palawan. Some are sent to the mainland of Palawan and others to Antique.
Pandan mats are shipped out from Cuyo Island in Palawan. Some go to the mainland of Palawan and others to Antique.
The Moro pandan mats are the most richly colored of all those produced in the Philippines. At this writing, information is not at hand to determine the method of preparing the straw or the species of pandan from which they are made. Mats which have been exhibited at successive Philippine expositions have undoubtedly been dyed with imported coloring matter. The designs are of the general effect of the mat reproduced on page 84. The colors are often well combined and the effect is very striking. The Cottabato mats are double; the under portion is woven of thick, heavy, uncolored straw, and the upper portion is of finer material; the two parts are spliced together. [85]
The Moro pandan mats are the most vibrantly colored of all those made in the Philippines. Currently, there isn't enough information to determine how the straw is prepared or the exact species of pandan used. Mats displayed at various Philippine expositions have definitely been dyed with imported colors. The designs are similar to the mat shown on page 84. The colors are often well blended, creating a very striking effect. The Cotabato mats are double-layered; the bottom layer is woven from thick, heavy, uncolored straw, while the top layer is made from finer material, and the two layers are stitched together. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Sedge Straws.
Kinds of Sedges.
Botanical.
The sedges which form the family of Cyperaceae are grass-like or rush-like herbs, with solid, jointless, usually triangular stems, while the grasses (Gramineae) are mostly herbs, usually with hollow stems closed and enlarged at the nodes. The former play an important part in the manufacture of mats because of their length and freedom from nodes. The family includes several genera of importance; viz., Scirpus, Cyperus, and Fimbristylis.
The sedges in the family Cyperaceae are herbaceous plants that look like grasses or rushes, featuring solid, jointless, and typically triangular stems, while grasses (Gramineae) are mostly herbs with hollow stems that are closed and thicker at the nodes. The former are significant for making mats due to their length and lack of nodes. This family includes several important genera, such as Scirpus, Cyperus, and Fimbristylis.

Plate XLVIII. Scirpus erectus.
Plate 48. Scirpus erectus.
Of these the Fimbristylis is the most important, for two species of Fimbristylis have a fairly large commercial use; they are therefore taken up separately.
Of these, the Fimbristylis is the most important because two species of Fimbristylis have significant commercial value; they are therefore discussed separately.
Of the genus Scirpus, the species S. grossus, known as “balangot” in Ambos Camarines and Capiz, “bagaas” in Occidental Negros, “tiquio” in Rizal, and “bagui-bagui” in Capiz, and S. erectus, are used for mats. S. grossus is not a very suitable material for industrial purposes, its distinctly three-cornered stalk being too coarse in texture and too large to permit of weaving even a fair grade article. S. erectus is much better. The stalk is about as fine as tikug and grows to a height of 60 cm. The flowers sometimes occur in a solitary cluster, but more often from 2 to 5 clusters of spikelets are found on the side of the stalk near its top. The plant is widely distributed in the Philippines and inhabits open grass lands. It bears some flowers throughout the year. As yet only coarse mats are made from it, but its general appearance would warrant experiments along the lines of the processes by which tikug is treated. The only native names noted are “tayoc-tayoc” and “tikug” by which names the plant is known in Occidental Negros. These names, however, are more properly applied to other plants. Scirpus mucronatus is somewhat like S. erectus in general appearance. The stem of S. mucronatus is more robust and coarser in texture and attains a height of 80 cm. Its dried stem [86]has an average width of 4 to 5 mm., while that of S. erectus measures from 2 to 3 mm. The flowers of S. mucronatus appear in a very dense head on the side of the plant from 2 to 9 cm. from the top. Each head is made up of from 5 to 20 spikelets. These spikelets are from 6 to 15 mm. long, while those of S. erectus are never more than 1 cm. in length. The coarser stalk of S. mucronatus makes it a less desirable mat material than S. erectus. In the Ilocos provinces a very coarse round sedge called tiker (Scirpus lacustris) occurs. It may be of value if split and dried in the sun so that it curls up into a round straw.
Of the genus Scirpus, the species S. grossus, known as “balangot” in Ambos Camarines and Capiz, “bagaas” in Occidental Negros, “tiquio” in Rizal, and “bagui-bagui” in Capiz, and S. erectus, are used for mats. S. grossus is not very suitable for industrial use, as its distinctly three-cornered stalk is too coarse and large for weaving decent quality items. S. erectus is a better option. Its stalk is similar in fineness to tikug and can grow up to 60 cm tall. Sometimes the flowers appear in a single cluster, but more often, you’ll find 2 to 5 clusters of spikelets near the top of the stalk. This plant is commonly found across the Philippines in open grasslands, flowering throughout the year. Currently, only coarse mats are made from it, but its overall appearance suggests potential for experimental processing similar to that of tikug. The only native names recorded are “tayoc-tayoc” and “tikug,” which apply to this plant in Occidental Negros, although these names are more accurately used for other species. Scirpus mucronatus resembles S. erectus generally. The stem of S. mucronatus is sturdier and coarser, reaching heights of 80 cm. Its dried stem [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] has an average width of 4 to 5 mm, while S. erectus measures 2 to 3 mm. The flowers of S. mucronatus appear in a dense head on the side of the plant, 2 to 9 cm from the top, with each head consisting of 5 to 20 spikelets. These spikelets range from 6 to 15 mm long, whereas those of S. erectus are no longer than 1 cm. The coarser stalk of S. mucronatus makes it less desirable for mat-making compared to S. erectus. In the Ilocos provinces, a very coarse round sedge called tiker (Scirpus lacustris) can be found. It might be useful if split and dried in the sun so that it curls into a round straw.

Plate XLIX. Tiker (Scirpus lacustris).
Plate XLIX. Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris).
The genus Cyperus includes a number of economic plants, among them the Chinese matting sedge. The species most used in the Philippines is C. malaccensis. This plant has an underground stem which, as it continues its growth, sends out new stalks. The plant lives for a number of years and when fully grown is from 0.5 to 1.5 meters high. The stem is stout and three-sided in shape. It has few or no leaves, and when present the leaves are not more than 3 cm. long. From 2 to 5 leaf-like stems (bracts) not more than 20 cm. long occur under the inflorescence. The spikelets which make up the inflorescence are somewhat crowded together; they are very narrow, from 1 to 2 cm. long. The plant occurs in the Philippines in brackish swamps and along tidal streams. It is also found in tropical Africa, Asia, the islands of Polynesia, and Australia. It is usually in flower from July to December. It was formerly made into mats and hats and is even now utilized in rare instances in weaving them, but it is most important as a material for slippers, and possibly for matting.
The genus Cyperus includes several economically important plants, including the Chinese matting sedge. The species most commonly used in the Philippines is C. malaccensis. This plant has an underground stem that, as it grows, produces new stalks. It can live for several years and reaches a height of 0.5 to 1.5 meters when mature. The stem is sturdy and has a three-sided shape. It has few or no leaves, and when leaves are present, they are no longer than 3 cm. long. There are 2 to 5 leaf-like stems (bracts) that are not more than 20 cm. long below the inflorescence. The spikelets that form the inflorescence are somewhat clustered together and are very narrow, measuring 1 to 2 cm. long. This plant can be found in the Philippines in brackish swamps and along tidal streams. It is also present in tropical Africa, Asia, the Polynesian islands, and Australia. It typically flowers from July to December. In the past, it was used to make mats and hats, and it is still occasionally used for weaving them, but it is primarily valued as a material for slippers, and possibly for matting.
Of the 125 species of Fimbristylis found only in warm regions, two are of economic importance in the Philippines, while one [87]more might perhaps be tried out as a mat material. All the species of Fimbristylis have tufted, fibrous or woody stems. The leaves occur near the base. The inflorescence consists of a great number of flowers grouped closely together to form one or more spikelets. The spikelets themselves may be either solitary or clustered. The individual flowers are covered by glumes and are arranged spirally on the axis. As the fruit matures, the glumes of the flowers become the “chaff” of the grain.
Of the 125 species of Fimbristylis found only in warm regions, two are economically significant in the Philippines, while one [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] more might be tested as a mat material. All species of Fimbristylis have tufted, fibrous, or woody stems. The leaves are located near the base. The inflorescence consists of a large number of flowers grouped closely together to form one or more spikelets. The spikelets themselves can be either solitary or clustered. The individual flowers are covered by glumes and arranged spirally on the axis. As the fruit matures, the glumes of the flowers become the “chaff” of the grain.
Tikug.

Plate L. Tikug.
Plate L. Tikug.
This sedge (Fimbristylis utilis) grows usually more than a meter long and has tufted stems which are shiny and smooth in appearance and average about 4 mm. in diameter. The stems may have long leaves at the base or may be entirely leafless, and are usually four- or five-sided immediately under the inflorescence. The general appearance of the stalk is round. The plant has few or no underground root-like stems. The flowers are densely clustered together to form spikelets, dusky brown in color, measuring 6 mm. by 3 mm. In the Visayas it is generally known as tikug. In Agusan and Surigao it is called “anahiwan” and in Bukidnon “sudsud”. Sometimes it is called tayoc-tayoc in confusion with the smaller sedge more properly known by that name, which much resembles tikug. A specimen from Pampanga was labeled “muta”.
This sedge (Fimbristylis utilis) typically grows over a meter long and has tufted stems that are shiny and smooth, averaging about 4 mm in diameter. The stems may have long leaves at the base or might be completely leafless, and they are usually four or five-sided just below the inflorescence. The general appearance of the stalk is round. The plant has few or no underground root-like stems. The flowers are densely grouped into spikelets, which are dark brown in color and measure 6 mm by 3 mm. In the Visayas, it is commonly known as tikug. In Agusan and Surigao, it is referred to as “anahiwan,” and in Bukidnon, it’s called “sudsud.” Sometimes, it’s mistakenly called tayoc-tayoc, confusing it with a smaller sedge that is properly known by that name, which closely resembles tikug. A specimen from Pampanga was labeled “muta.”
Tikug grows in greatest profusion and reaches its highest economic importance in parts of Mindanao, Bohol, Leyte, and Samar. To a less degree, it is found and utilized on Negros and Panay. While it is found in Cebu, it is not used there. As a recognized industrial plant, therefore, its distribution is confined to the Visayas and Mindanao. Its appearance in Pampanga would indicate that it may be found in other regions in [88]which its value in hand-weaving and in the making of matting is not understood.20
Tikug grows abundantly and is most economically important in parts of Mindanao, Bohol, Leyte, and Samar. It is also found and used, but to a lesser extent, in Negros and Panay. Though it appears in Cebu, it’s not utilized there. As a recognized industrial plant, its distribution is limited to the Visayas and Mindanao. Its presence in Pampanga suggests that it might also be found in other regions in [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]where its value for hand-weaving and matting is not fully appreciated.20
Tikug is utilized in making hats, mats, matting, slippers and various minor articles.
Tikug is used to make hats, mats, matting, slippers, and various small items.
Samar Mats.
Gathering the Straw.
The best known tikug mats are produced on the Island of Samar, where the sedge grows wild.21 It has never been cultivated there. Different grades are recognized in the height and width of the straw. The finest is 1½ mm. in diameter while the largest straws are fully four times that width. Full grown stalks sometimes reach 3 meters in height, but the average is 1½ meters. In most places in Samar only very coarse tikug is found and this is especially true in the northern half of the island. The best material grows near the towns of Basey and Sulat, a circumstance probably due to the fact that most of these sedges are pulled up for weaving before they become old and coarse, for it is in these two towns that the mat industry of Samar is centered. All grades of tikug can be used in making mats; but as the straw cannot be split into finer pieces, it is only from the narrower material that the fine mats are made. The map on the distribution of tikug shows the regions in Samar in which this sedge occurs.22
The best-known tikug mats come from the Island of Samar, where the sedge grows wild. It has never been farmed there. Different grades are identified by the height and width of the straw. The finest measures 1½ mm in diameter, while the largest straws are up to four times that width. Fully grown stalks can reach 3 meters high, but the average height is 1½ meters. In most parts of Samar, only very coarse tikug can be found, especially in the northern half of the island. The best material is located near the towns of Basey and Sulat, likely because most of the sedges are harvested for weaving before they become old and coarse. These two towns are the main centers for Samar's mat industry. All grades of tikug can be used to make mats; however, since the straw cannot be split into finer pieces, only the narrower material is used to create the finer mats. The map showing the distribution of tikug illustrates the regions in Samar where this sedge grows.
Bleaching.

Plate LII. Dyeing tikug, Basey, Samar.
Plate LII. Dyeing tikug, Basey, Samar.
In some parts of Samar rough mats are made from tikug dried in the shade. In Basey and Sulat bleached straw is used. In the bleaching process only the sun is used, the bundles being spread out where there is neither grass nor shade. The straw must be kept perfectly dry at all times, for if it becomes wet or damp it will mildew and turn an unsightly black or brown. In the morning it must not be put out until the ground is dry and in the evening it should be taken in before dew is formed upon [90]it. The best results are obtained by drying the material in a place where there is no grass, as the turf generally holds considerable moisture and retards the process. With proper care clean white straw can be obtained in about one week under the most favorable conditions. Sometimes, but not often, the above process is preceded by boiling the straw for ten or twenty minutes in plain water. Several bleaching experiments have already been made with tikug, but as yet none has been entirely successful. In one experiment straw was boiled in alum, but the resultant material was not so white as that obtained by simply drying it in the sun. Boiling green tikug in water containing acetic acid from the juice of limes and lemons was unsatisfactory. The best straw obtained was that produced by simply boiling the green stalk for a few minutes in water and rinsing it well and then drying in the sunshine for several days.
In some areas of Samar, rough mats are made from tikug that has been dried in the shade. In Basey and Sulat, they use bleached straw. The bleaching process relies only on the sun, with the bundles spread out in areas that have no grass or shade. The straw must stay completely dry at all times; if it gets wet or damp, it will mildew and turn an unattractive black or brown. In the morning, it shouldn't be put out until the ground is dry, and in the evening, it should be brought in before any dew forms on [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]it. The best results come from drying the material in a spot without grass, as the turf generally retains a lot of moisture and slows down the process. With proper care, clean white straw can be achieved in about a week under ideal conditions. Sometimes, although not frequently, the process starts with boiling the straw for ten to twenty minutes in plain water. Several experiments have been conducted with tikug bleaching, but none have been completely successful so far. In one experiment, straw was boiled in alum, but the outcome wasn't as white as the straw that was just dried in the sun. Boiling green tikug in water with acetic acid from lime and lemon juice was also disappointing. The best straw obtained was created by simply boiling the green stalks for a few minutes in water, rinsing them well, and then drying them in the sun for several days.
The straws are of different lengths and diameters; after bleaching they must be sorted. The seed clusters are removed and the bunches are tied in a big bundle which is laid on the floor with root toward the worker. The longer straws of small diameter are then pulled out and placed in small bundles, the process continuing until the several different grades are thus separated and nothing remains but a few short thick straws which are kept for embroidering designs. Each bundle is then trimmed by cutting off the roots and ragged tops and the straw is ready for storing, dyeing, or flattening. If tikug remains in a damp place it will mold and become worthless. It is easily kept during the dry season, if frequently exposed to the sun. During the rainy season it should be wrapped in a blanket or cloth. [91]
The straws come in various lengths and widths; after bleaching, they need to be sorted. The seed clusters are removed, and the bunches are tied together in a large bundle that’s placed on the floor with the roots facing the worker. The longer, thinner straws are pulled out and gathered into smaller bundles, and this process continues until several different grades are separated, leaving only a few short, thick straws that are kept for embroidering designs. Each bundle is then trimmed by cutting off the roots and uneven tops, making the straw ready for storage, dyeing, or flattening. If tikug is left in a damp place, it will mold and become useless. It can be easily stored during the dry season if it's regularly exposed to the sun. During the rainy season, it should be wrapped in a blanket or cloth. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Dyeing.
Very few uncolored straws are used in Samar mats. The dyed material is more durable and does not mildew as readily as the uncolored straws. Tikug dyes easily and this is probably one of the reasons why the mats of Samar have so much color. The cost of the dye in a Basey mat is no small part of the total expense of production. Consequently it is necessary to employ a cheap dye. For instance, one of the best commercial dyes known in Manila was used with great success on Samar mats, but the value of the coloring material consumed in making them was greater than their selling price. The dye used in making the cheapest of Samar mats costs the weavers about 10 centavos while the more elaborate products need as much as 65 centavos worth of dye to color them. A common mat containing 15 centavos worth of dyestuff sells for about a peso.23
Very few natural straw materials are used in Samar mats. The dyed materials are more durable and less likely to mildew than the natural straws. Tikug dyes easily, which is probably one reason why Samar mats are so colorful. The dye costs in a Basey mat make up a significant portion of the total production costs. As a result, it's necessary to use a cheap dye. For example, one of the best commercial dyes known in Manila was used successfully on Samar mats, but the cost of the dye used to make them was higher than their selling price. The dye used for the cheapest Samar mats costs the weavers about 10 centavos, while the more intricate designs require as much as 65 centavos' worth of dye. A standard mat containing 15 centavos worth of dye typically sells for about a peso.23
The colors obtained by the Basey mat weavers have a greater variety of shades and tints than those produced by any other workers in the Philippines on tikug or any other mat material. The shades and tints depend upon two considerations: (1) The amount of dyestuffs used and (2) the length of time the boiling process is continued. Four dyestuffs are used. Yellows are obtained from turmeric; greens and reds are obtained from coal-tar dyes; and a red-orange from deora. The leaves of the latter plant are crushed and the pulpy mass thus obtained is boiled to yield the dye fluid. By combining these four dye materials in different proportions, by using varying amounts of the material, and by boiling varying lengths of time, different colors, shades and tints are obtained.
The colors produced by the Basey mat weavers are more varied in shades and tints than those made by any other artisans in the Philippines using tikug or any other mat materials. The shades and tints depend on two factors: (1) the amount of dye used and (2) the duration of the boiling process. Four types of dye are used. Yellows come from turmeric; greens and reds are sourced from coal-tar dyes; and a red-orange is taken from deora. The leaves of the deora plant are crushed, and the resulting pulp is boiled to create the dye liquid. By mixing these four dye materials in different amounts, using various quantities of the raw material, and boiling for different lengths of time, a range of colors, shades, and tints can be achieved.
The method of dyeing is as follows: The bunches of tikug are coiled and placed in a can of hot dye, where they are boiled from two to ten minutes, or until the desired intensity has been secured. The more the straw is boiled, the more nearly permanent will be the color and the greater will be its intensity. Care must be taken to see that the dye fluid is not too strong; otherwise the color will be too intense. In order that the material may be evenly colored, the tikug is submerged in the dye so that it is well covered and is turned over several times during the process. After the coils are removed they should be laid upon the ground or floor, allowed to cool, and then hung in the shade to dry. [92]
The dyeing process is as follows: The bunches of tikug are coiled and placed in a can of hot dye, where they are boiled for two to ten minutes, or until the desired color intensity is reached. The longer the straw is boiled, the more permanent and intense the color will be. It's important to make sure the dye isn't too strong; otherwise, the color will turn out too intense. To ensure the material is evenly colored, the tikug should be fully submerged in the dye and turned over several times during the process. After removing the coils, they should be laid on the ground or floor to cool, and then hung in the shade to dry. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Flattening.
The straws composing the bleached or dyed bundles of material are stiff and uneven; some are bent and others are round. The process of flattening them and making them more pliable is carried on during damp days, in the morning or evening, for if done in the open air on cloudless days, or at any time when the atmosphere is dry, the straw becomes brittle and breaks. However, climatic conditions may be overcome by wrapping the straw in banana leaves or damp cloth for an hour or more and then working it where no breeze can dry it out. No water should be applied. The workers employ the usual blunt-edged, ruler-like piece of wood; between this and the thumb the straw is drawn by the free hand. This process flattens the straw and makes it pliable so that it does not split during weaving.
The straws that make up the bleached or dyed bundles are stiff and uneven; some are bent while others are round. The process of flattening them and making them more flexible happens on damp days, either in the morning or evening. If it's done in the open air on sunny days or when the atmosphere is dry, the straw becomes brittle and breaks. However, weather conditions can be managed by wrapping the straw in banana leaves or damp cloth for an hour or more, then working it in an area where there's no breeze to dry it out. No water should be used. The workers use a typical blunt-edged piece of wood that looks like a ruler; they draw the straw between this tool and their thumb with their free hand. This process flattens the straw and makes it flexible so it doesn’t split during weaving.
The Weaving of Samar Mats.
Up to three years ago tikug was but little used in Samar except for weaving mats. Commercially, mat weaving was confined to Sulat and Basey. Since the American occupation it has been widely done and the work has been introduced into most of the schools. Not only have methods been greatly improved but new uses have been found for the material. To-day the sedge is woven into floor and wall mats, hats, table mats, slippers, book-bags, hand-bags, necktie cases, pencil holders, pencil cases, and pillow and cushion covers. Recently the weaving of matting on looms has been undertaken in the schools and a fine product, similar to the matting of Japan, has been produced on the ordinary loom adjusted to the straw.
Up until three years ago, tikug was used very little in Samar, mostly just for weaving mats. Commercially, mat weaving was limited to Sulat and Basey. Since the American occupation, it has become widely practiced, and the activity has been introduced in most schools. Not only have the methods improved significantly, but new uses for the material have also been discovered. Today, the sedge is woven into floor and wall mats, hats, table mats, slippers, book bags, handbags, necktie cases, pencil holders, pencil cases, and pillow and cushion covers. Recently, weaving matting on looms has started in schools, producing a fine product similar to Japanese matting, made on a regular loom adapted for straw.
The chief use of tikug in Samar is in the weaving of mats in the towns of Basey and Sulat. Since time immemorial tikug mats have been woven in Samar. At Palapag, Oras, Dolores, Taft, Balangiga, Santa Rita, Gandara, Oquendo, and Catarman, a few rough ones, the product of unskilled workmen, were made, but they were of no commercial importance, since the people did not weave enough to supply their own demand. As far back as can now be traced, the people of Basey and Sulat have been making mats for the provincial and interprovincial trade. Since 1907 the people of Dolores, Oras, Santa Rita, and Balangiga have improved in weaving and are now producing a few mats for the market. Their work is much inferior to that of Basey and Sulat. In the year 1911 Basey produced about 9,000 mats and Sulat about 300. The latter town could have increased its production greatly, but its remoteness from the market and from the routes of commerce reduces the large demand which [93]might otherwise exist for the mats. Basey is better situated in these respects; moreover, the people have been forced to fall back on mat weaving as their chief means of support, for typhoons have destroyed their coconuts and abaca, and their rice crop is scant. Almost every night mat weavers are found at work in many of the houses.
The main use of tikug in Samar is for making mats in the towns of Basey and Sulat. For as long as anyone can remember, tikug mats have been woven in Samar. In Palapag, Oras, Dolores, Taft, Balangiga, Santa Rita, Gandara, Oquendo, and Catarman, a few rough mats made by unskilled workers were created, but they were not commercially viable since the locals didn’t weave enough to meet their own needs. Historically, the people of Basey and Sulat have been making mats for local and regional trade. Since 1907, the residents of Dolores, Oras, Santa Rita, and Balangiga have improved their weaving skills and are now producing a small number of mats for the market. However, their quality is still much lower than that of Basey and Sulat. In 1911, Basey produced around 9,000 mats while Sulat produced about 300. Sulat could have significantly increased its production, but its distance from the market and trade routes limits the demand for the mats. Basey has a more advantageous location, and additionally, the community has had to rely on mat weaving as their main source of income because typhoons have damaged their coconuts and abaca, and their rice crop is limited. Nearly every night, mat weavers can be found working in many of the houses.
Several years ago, when American soldiers were stationed in the vicinity of the town, there grew up a great demand for mats, and the weavers, taking advantage of their need and their little knowledge of values in the Philippines, demanded exorbitant prices and received them. Most of the Basey people spent their time producing mats, and to a great extent sacrificed quality for quantity. The grade of mat that sold for ₱18 several years ago can now be bought for about ₱8; that which sold for ₱3 two years ago can be bought to-day for ₱2. Lately there has been a rise in price owing to increased commercial demand. Mats made to order, particularly special mats, cost more than those bought already woven, the price depending upon the size of the article, the character of the design, and the fineness of the straw and the weave. A mat two meters by one meter, made of the finest grade of tikug, would require several months for completion and would probably cost between ₱30 and ₱40. There is hardly a limit to the size of the mat which can be woven. Three years ago one having dimensions of 10 meters by 12 meters was made for a church, as many as 30 women working on it at the same time.
Several years ago, when American soldiers were stationed near the town, there was a huge demand for mats. The weavers, seeing their need and their limited understanding of prices in the Philippines, charged outrageous amounts and got away with it. Most of the people from Basey spent their time making mats, often sacrificing quality for quantity. The type of mat that sold for ₱18 a few years ago can now be bought for around ₱8; the one that sold for ₱3 two years ago can now be purchased for ₱2. Recently, there has been a price increase due to higher commercial demand. Mats made to order, especially special ones, cost more than ready-made ones, with the price depending on the size, the design, and the quality of the straw and weaving. A mat that is two meters by one meter, made from the finest tikug, would take several months to complete and likely cost between ₱30 and ₱40. There’s almost no limit to the size of the mat that can be woven. Three years ago, one measuring 10 meters by 12 meters was created for a church, with as many as 30 women working on it simultaneously.

Plate LIII. Incomplete Samar mat of medium grade showing woven-in design.
Plate LIII. Incomplete Samar mat of medium quality showing woven design.
[94]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Basey mats are of two general kinds: those with plaid designs woven in and those on which the designs are embroidered. The former are the more difficult to weave; but as there is no decoration to be added, they are the cheapest mats obtainable, the prices for the ordinary grades ranging from ₱0.80 to ₱3 each. Some weavers turn out only blank mats of one color and do neither designing nor decorating. Straw used on these is usually dyed, very few mats of natural colors being made. They are worth from ₱0.50 to ₱2 each and are generally sold to girls who are skillful in embroidering designs. These girls decorate the mats and sell them for from ₱2.50 to ₱6 each, the price depending upon the original cost of the mat and the amount of decoration put upon it. The ideas for the designs on Basey mats are usually obtained from pictures or textiles. The straws, both bleached and dyed, are split in two for embroidering purposes. This makes them thinner and more pliable.
Basey mats come in two main types: those with woven plaid designs and those with embroidered designs. The first type is harder to make, but since they don’t require any additional decoration, they are the cheapest mats available, costing between ₱0.80 and ₱3 each. Some weavers only produce plain mats in a single color without any design or decoration. The straw used for these mats is usually dyed, with only a few made in natural colors. They range in price from ₱0.50 to ₱2 each and are typically sold to girls who are skilled at embroidering designs. These girls then decorate the mats and sell them for between ₱2.50 and ₱6 each, with the price depending on the original cost of the mat and the level of decoration added. The inspiration for the designs on Basey mats usually comes from pictures or other textiles. The straws, both bleached and dyed, are split in half for embroidering, making them thinner and more flexible.

Plate LIV. A cheap Samar mat with woven-in design.
Plate LIV. An inexpensive Samar mat featuring a woven design.
The time necessary for making a plaid mat sold for two pesos was found to be as follows, an eight-hour day being used as the basis of a day’s work:
The time needed to make a plaid mat sold for two pesos was found to be as follows, using an eight-hour day as the standard for a workday:
Days. | |
Gathering tikug | 1.00 |
Dyeing tikug | .25 |
Flattening tikug | .25 |
Weaving mat | 3.50 |
Total time | 5.00 |
The selling price of the mat was one peso, the cost of the dye 15 centavos, which left the weaver a balance of 85 centavos for [95]five days’ labor. The plaids used in Basey mats are simple, but the embroidered designs are extremely intricate. They consist for the most part of foliage, flowers, and animals. Weavers are often given a contract to make a stated number of mats in accordance with a design furnished them. A few are capable of reproducing almost any pattern presented,24 but if they are not told exactly what colors to use they employ every shade, color and tint they can secure. The Basey mats are distinguished by the multitude of colors used. In general it may be stated that the chief criticism of this product is the gaudy effect produced by the colors used. In some cases the colors are well toned and harmoniously combined, but the majority of the mats produced contain vivid colors which are not all harmonious. Through the schools, efforts have been made to reduce the number of colors and to modify the gaudy and complicated floral designs. An improvement is seen each year.
The selling price of the mat was one peso, the dye cost 15 centavos, leaving the weaver with 85 centavos for [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] five days of work. The plaids used in Basey mats are simple, but the embroidered designs are very intricate. They mainly feature foliage, flowers, and animals. Weavers often receive contracts to produce a certain number of mats according to a design provided to them. A few can recreate almost any pattern given to them, but if they're not told exactly which colors to use, they will employ every shade, color, and tint they can find. The Basey mats stand out because of the numerous colors used. Generally, the main criticism of this product is the overly bright effect created by the colors. In some cases, the colors are well-balanced and harmoniously combined, but most of the mats produced feature vivid colors that are not all in sync. Through the schools, efforts have been made to reduce the number of colors and to tone down the flashy and complex floral designs. Each year shows improvement.

Plate LV. Detail of a woven-in design.
Plate LV. Detail of a woven design.
The ordinary mat is usually about 2 meters by 1½ meters, though smaller and larger ones are made. During the past three [96]years the weavers have been encouraged to make mats about the size of an ordinary cot and to use no more than two colors in weaving them. A few mats suitable for placing under dining tables are also made.
The standard mat is typically around 2 meters by 1.5 meters, although you can find both smaller and larger options. In recent years, weavers have been asked to create mats that are the size of a regular cot and to use no more than two colors in their designs. Some mats that are suitable for placing under dining tables are also produced. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Sulat weavers produce fewer mats than those of Basey but make them of fine, closely woven straw. Most of the mats with a woven-on border come from Sulat. These people, while able to produce a fine, soft, pliable mat, can not embroider decorations on them nearly so well as do the people of Basey.
Sulat weavers create fewer mats than those in Basey, but they use fine, tightly woven straw. Most of the mats with woven borders come from Sulat. While these weavers can produce soft, flexible mats, they aren't able to embroider decorations on them as well as the people in Basey.
Samar mats wear well. Wall mats last indefinitely and sleeping mats are used from two to ten years or more.25
Samar mats are very durable. Wall mats can last forever, and sleeping mats are used for anywhere between two to ten years or even longer.25

Plate LVI. An embroidered mat with simple decorations in comparison with most mats from Basey.
Plate LVI. An embroidered mat with simple designs compared to most mats from Basey.
The Marketing of Basey Mats.

Plate LVII. Small table mats.
Plate LVII. Small placemats.
The port of Tacloban, Leyte, due to its proximity to Basey, is the chief center for the distribution of Samar mats. As soon as the mats are completed the weavers take them across the straits to Tacloban, where they are sold to Chinese brokers, transients and residents, both American and native. Few ships leave [97]Tacloban that do not carry away from 5 to 20 mats; often they take away as many as 50, the amount generally depending upon the number of passengers aboard the boat. Some of the ship’s employees are regular customers of the weavers and buy mats at stated prices to sell them again at a reasonable profit at Manila and other ports of call. Besides, there is quite a sale of mats in the towns of Samar, Leyte, and Cebu through vendors, residents of Basey, who secure the mats in their home town at low prices and sell them at a profit. These persons usually deal only in the mats, and sell them for cash, not trading for other articles. Plaid Basey mats are on sale in nearly all the Chinese general merchandise stores of Manila.
The port of Tacloban, Leyte, is the main hub for distributing Samar mats, thanks to its closeness to Basey. Once the mats are finished, the weavers transport them across the strait to Tacloban, where they sell them to Chinese brokers and both American and local buyers. Hardly any ships leave [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]Tacloban without taking 5 to 20 mats; sometimes they carry as many as 50, depending on how many passengers are on board. Some of the crew members regularly buy mats from the weavers at set prices to resell them for a profit in Manila and other ports. Additionally, there's a good market for mats in the towns of Samar, Leyte, and Cebu through vendors from Basey, who purchase the mats locally at low prices and resell them for a markup. These vendors typically focus solely on mats and sell them for cash without trading for other goods. Plaid Basey mats can be found in almost all Chinese general merchandise stores in Manila.
As yet there is little supervision by brokers in Basey. The mat industry there needs but the introduction of some system of supervision by brokers to regulate the size, quality, design and color scheme of the mats, and a foreign market to become a much more extended industry. The schools have already done much toward improving workmanship and design; it must remain for individual enterprise, however, to get in touch with foreign demand and supervise the weaving of mats to suit it.26
So far, there’s not much oversight by brokers in Basey. The mat industry there just needs a system of supervision by brokers to control the size, quality, design, and color scheme of the mats, along with a foreign market, to grow significantly. The schools have already contributed a lot to enhancing craftsmanship and design; however, it will be up to individual entrepreneurs to connect with foreign demand and oversee the mat weaving to meet that demand.26
Bohol Mats.27
Tikug mats are made in large numbers in Bohol. The straw for the most part is finer than that used in Samar and the patterns [98]are chiefly stripes and checks. Very little embroidering is attempted.
Tikug mats are produced in large quantities in Bohol. The straw is generally finer than the one used in Samar, and the patterns are mainly stripes and checks. Very little embroidery is done.
Bohol mats are used principally for sleeping purposes. In northern Bohol there is scarcely a family that has not three or more large mats, which are rolled up and laid away during the day time and are unrolled upon the floor at night for a bed. They are durable and last for years. Large sleeping mats may be purchased in quantities as high as 40 to 100 during the Sunday market day in Talibon or on the Saturday market day in Ypil, a barrio of the same town. In price they range from one to three pesos each.
Bohol mats are mainly used for sleeping. In northern Bohol, hardly any family doesn't have three or more large mats, which are rolled up and stored away during the day and unrolled on the floor at night to serve as beds. They are durable and can last for years. Lots of large sleeping mats can be bought in quantities of 40 to 100 during the Sunday market in Talibon or on the Saturday market in Ypil, a neighborhood of the same town. They cost between one and three pesos each.

Plate LVIII. Embroidering a mat.
Plate 58. Embroidering a mat.
The second use of Bohol mats is for decorating walls, tables, and floors. Those so employed are smaller than the sleeping mats, usually square, but sometimes round. More care is exercised in their weaving and only fine young straws are used. The preparation of the straw and the dyeing are done with great care. Mats of the best quality are quite difficult to secure and the schools have recently been encouraging their production.
The second use of Bohol mats is for decorating walls, tables, and floors. These mats are smaller than sleeping mats, typically square but sometimes round. More attention is paid to their weaving, using only fine young straws. The preparation of the straw and the dyeing are done with great care. High-quality mats are quite hard to find, and schools have recently been promoting their production.
As in other regions, the tikug from which Bohol mats are made, grows wild in the rice fields after the harvest. It is found in abundance in northern Bohol in the municipalities of Getafe, Talibon and Ubay, and sparingly in other towns of the island (see map). The straws are gathered from the field by pulling them, thus breaking them off at the roots, and they are tied into bundles about 3 decimeters in circumference and sold in the market. The largest market for such bundles is found in [99]the barrio of Ypil in the municipality of Talibon. The price is usually about 10 centavos per bundle. From two to four of these bundles are required to make a mat.
As in other areas, the tikug used to make Bohol mats grows wild in the rice fields after the harvest. It is mostly found in northern Bohol, particularly in the municipalities of Getafe, Talibon, and Ubay, with fewer occurrences in other towns on the island (see map). The straws are collected by pulling them out of the ground, breaking them off at the roots, and are tied into bundles about 30 centimeters around and sold in the market. The biggest market for these bundles is in [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] the barrio of Ypil in Talibon. The price is usually around 10 centavos per bundle. It takes two to four bundles to make one mat.
The tikug is not kept in the original bundles longer than one or two days, for it will turn black. The material is usually separated into two parts, one to be dyed, the other to be bleached. That to be dyed is spread in the sun and thoroughly dried for one or two days, care being taken that rain does not fall upon it and blacken it. The other part is boiled in a solution of acetic acid for twenty minutes, after which it is thoroughly dried in the sun and thus bleached.
The tikug isn't kept in the original bundles for more than a day or two, or it will turn black. The material is usually divided into two parts: one to be dyed and the other to be bleached. The part that will be dyed is laid out in the sun and dried thoroughly for one or two days, making sure it doesn't get rained on and turn black. The other part is boiled in a solution of acetic acid for twenty minutes, after which it is also dried in the sun to be bleached.
The natural dyes used in Bohol for coloring tikug are dauda and turmeric. The former produces permanent colors, the latter fugitive ones. The artificial dyes bought at Chinese stores are also used in producing shades and tints of green, violet and ruby which are satisfactory. In general, those in crystal form have proven more satisfactory than the powder dyes. Before dyeing, the sheath-like leaf is pulled from the bottom of each straw and the material is looped into small bundles. Often the straws are dampened with water. Dyeing is usually done in a 5-gallon petroleum can two-thirds full of water, heated to boiling. If the artificial dyes are used the powder is stirred in and dissolved and the bundles of tikug are then pressed down into the liquid so that all the material is well covered. A stone is often laid upon the straws so as to keep them down in the boiling dye. It usually requires about twenty minutes to obtain the desired shade, which is nearly always a deep one. Where fresh dauda leaves are employed, about 2 pounds are placed in the water and boiled a few minutes before the tikug is put in. If dried leaves are used about one pound is soaked in cold water for a few minutes and the whole mass is then added to the boiling water. Turmeric roots are pounded in a mortar and then added to the boiling water, after which the tikug is added. All the dyes noted are combined to produce other colors and varying shades.
The natural dyes used in Bohol for coloring tikug are dauda and turmeric. Dauda produces permanent colors, while turmeric provides temporary ones. Artificial dyes bought at Chinese stores are also used to create shades of green, violet, and ruby that are quite satisfactory. In general, dyes in crystal form have proven to be more effective than powder dyes. Before dyeing, the sheath-like leaf is pulled from the bottom of each straw, and the material is looped into small bundles. Often, the straws are dampened with water. Dyeing usually takes place in a 5-gallon petroleum can filled two-thirds with water, heated to boiling. If using artificial dyes, the powder is stirred in until dissolved, and the bundles of tikug are pressed down into the liquid to ensure they are fully submerged. A stone is often placed on the straws to keep them submerged in the boiling dye. It typically takes about twenty minutes to achieve the desired shade, which is almost always deep. When using fresh dauda leaves, about 2 pounds are placed in the water and boiled for a few minutes before adding the tikug. If dried leaves are used, about one pound is soaked in cold water for a few minutes, then the entire mass is added to the boiling water. Turmeric roots are pounded in a mortar and then added to the boiling water before the tikug is included. All the dyes mentioned can be combined to produce different colors and varying shades.
During the process of dyeing, the straw should be turned and moved about in the boiling water to insure an even color. The straw should never be boiled too long, or it will be cooked and become tender and weak. After the straw has taken on the shade desired, it is removed from the can and thrown on the ground. When the bundles are cool enough to be handled, they are untied and the straws spread out to dry, preferably in the shade. After it is thoroughly dried the material is rebundled and thus kept for weaving. [100]
During the dyeing process, the straw should be moved around in the boiling water to ensure an even color. The straw must not be boiled for too long, or it will become overcooked and too soft. Once the straw has reached the desired shade, it is taken out of the can and placed on the ground. When the bundles are cool enough to touch, they are untied and the straws are spread out to dry, preferably in the shade. After it has dried completely, the material is re-bundled and kept for weaving. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Before weaving, the straws are flattened by drawing each one separately between the edge of the knife and the heel of the weaver’s foot or the sole of the chinela. Damp days are best for this process. Weaving is done under the house or under trees. Evenings and nights are most suitable for this work on account of the dampness of the atmosphere. The embroidered mats of Bohol are decorated with split straws.
Before weaving, each straw is flattened by pressing it between the edge of a knife and the weaver’s foot or the sole of their sandal. Damp days are ideal for this process. Weaving takes place under the house or under trees. Evenings and nights are the best times for this work due to the moisture in the air. The embroidered mats from Bohol are adorned with split straws.
The mats of Bohol are bought by traders who exchange cloth and other goods for them. These men carry them to the towns of Bohol which do not produce mats, and to other islands, where they sell or exchange them at a good profit. When once the supply of mats on hand has been bought up in a mat producing town, several months elapse before the market there is replenished by a new supply. After completing a mat, the weaver has no immediate desire to begin another. It is quite probable that the output of mats could be increased considerably if the market and the price were better. It is estimated that the weavers earn not more than 20 centavos per day at the industry.
The mats from Bohol are purchased by traders who trade cloth and other goods for them. These traders take the mats to towns in Bohol that don't make mats, as well as to other islands, where they sell or trade them for a good profit. Once the stock of mats is sold in a mat-producing town, it takes several months for the market there to be restocked. After finishing a mat, the weaver doesn’t immediately feel the urge to start another one. It’s likely that the production of mats could be significantly increased if the market conditions and prices were better. It’s estimated that weavers make no more than 20 centavos a day in this industry.
Other Tikug Mats.
Tikug also grows in large quantities in Leyte. Its chief use there is in the weaving of matting on a crude loom, an adaptation of the common textile loom.
Tikug also grows in large quantities in Leyte. Its main use there is in weaving mats on a simple loom, which is a variation of the typical textile loom.
Tikug is apparently generally used throughout Surigao in making mats. The best mats of this region come from the upper Agusan and the island of Dinagat. They are usually made for local consumption, though the people of Dinagat exchange their mats with Bohol traders. The sedge grows in great abundance in the lake of Talacogon near the town of the same name in Agusan.
Tikug is widely used in Surigao for making mats. The finest mats from this area come from upper Agusan and Dinagat Island. They are mostly made for local use, although the people of Dinagat trade their mats with Bohol merchants. The sedge grows in large quantities in Lake Talacogon near the town of the same name in Agusan.
Tikug is also found in many parts of the Moro Province. It abounds in the swamp lands of the Lanao region, from which mats are exported via Iligan. If it is to be colored, the straws are soaked in water for about two days, after which they are cooked in the boiling dye. Bleached straw is prepared by exposing it to the sun, after which the material is polished and flattened at the same time by rubbing the stalks with ashes, between the fingers.
Tikug is also found in various parts of the Moro Province. It is plentiful in the swampy areas of the Lanao region, from where mats are shipped out through Iligan. If it needs to be dyed, the straws are soaked in water for about two days, then boiled in dye. Bleached straw is prepared by sun exposure, and afterward, the material is polished and flattened at the same time by rubbing the stalks with ashes between the fingers.
The Cultivation of Tikug.
The question of the cultivation of tikug is one of considerable importance. It is a well known fact that the finest Leghorn hat straw is produced in Italy by sewing wheat closely and reaping the straw before the grain ripens. The best mat straws of China and Japan are produced from cultivated sedges. The [101]Bureau of Education is therefore encouraging experiments in the cultivation of tikug, but as yet these have not been extensive enough to determine whether the sedge can be propagated for industrial purposes. There are no data as to cost. A quantity of seed was procured and forwarded to various parts of the Islands in which tikug had not been reported as growing. These were sent out to various persons with the idea of determining (1) soils suitable to the plant, (2) whether it could be cultivated in the rice paddies between harvest and planting, (3) how closely the seeds should be planted, (4) how old the plants should be at harvest.28 No results have as yet been obtained from the seeds so sent out. Fair results, however, have been realized in Samar, where approximately 5,000 stalks were grown to the square foot in very rich soil fertilized with manure secured from the military stables. The straws obtained were 3 meters long. It was found that the thicker the seeds are planted the finer and longer are the straws obtained.
The question of growing tikug is really important. It's a well-known fact that the best Leghorn hat straw comes from Italy, where they plant wheat closely together and harvest the straw before the grain ripens. The top mat straws from China and Japan come from cultivated sedges. The [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]Bureau of Education is encouraging experiments in growing tikug, but so far, these experiments haven't been extensive enough to see if the sedge can be grown for industrial use. There’s no data on cost yet. Some seeds were collected and sent to various parts of the Islands where tikug hasn't been reported to grow. These were distributed to different people to determine (1) which soils work best for the plant, (2) if it can be grown in rice paddies between harvest and planting, (3) how closely the seeds should be planted, and (4) how mature the plants should be at harvest.28 No results have been obtained yet from the seeds sent out. However, good results have been seen in Samar, where about 5,000 stalks were grown per square foot in very rich soil fertilized with manure from military stables. The straw obtained was 3 meters long. It was discovered that the closer the seeds are planted, the finer and longer the straws are produced.
Reports differ as to whether tikug should be considered a pest or not. In Leyte it is stated that it grows in the rice fields along with the rice crop and appreciably diminishes the crop. There it is a weed pest; in Samar it is not so considered. In Bohol one teacher states that the plant is not a pest as it will not grow in dry localities, and hence does not interfere with crops. Where it is found in the rice paddies, a covering of earth will easily destroy it. It does not scatter quickly, for, while the roots will grow if transplanted, the sedge is mostly propagated by seeds and these are distributed principally by water and not by wind. No great chances are taken in planting tikug. On the other hand, some teachers state that the seeds are scattered by the wind and that the roots impede the plowing of the fields.
Reports vary on whether tikug should be seen as a pest. In Leyte, it's noted that it grows in rice fields alongside the rice crop and significantly reduces the yield. There, it's viewed as a weed pest; in Samar, it's not considered one. In Bohol, one teacher claims the plant isn't a pest because it doesn't thrive in dry areas, so it doesn't interfere with crops. When it does appear in rice paddies, a layer of soil can easily eradicate it. It doesn't spread quickly; although the roots can grow if transplanted, the sedge mainly reproduces by seeds, which are primarily carried by water, not wind. Planting tikug is generally safe. However, some teachers assert that the seeds are blown by the wind and that the roots hinder plowing the fields.
It is probable that where the tikug obtains a good foothold on irrigated rice land it proves a considerable annoyance to farmers; but its growth as a pest can be regulated by plowing.
It’s likely that where the tikug gets a strong grip on irrigated rice fields, it becomes a significant hassle for farmers; however, its growth as a pest can be controlled by plowing.
Tayoc-Tayoc.
This plant, F. diphylla, one of the most widely distributed of all sedges, is found at all altitudes up to 2,000 meters throughout the warm regions of the world. The stems may be smooth or hairy and the leaves one-third to two-thirds as long as the stem. F. diphylla is generally smaller than F. utilis. Its stem is only 2 mm. in diameter. The flowers, densely clustered into spikelets, are generally of two colors—straw and brown. They reach 1 [102]cm. in length and 4 mm. in diameter. Below the spikelet the stem has from 3 to 5 sides. The roots are fibrous; underground stems may occur, but they are never more than 2.5 cm. long.
This plant, F. diphylla, is one of the most widely spread sedges found at all elevations up to 2,000 meters in warm regions around the globe. The stems can be either smooth or hairy, and the leaves are about one-third to two-thirds the length of the stem. F. diphylla is typically smaller than F. utilis, with a stem diameter of only 2 mm. The flowers, which grow in dense clusters called spikelets, usually come in two colors—straw and brown. They are 1 [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]cm long and 4 mm in diameter. Below the spikelet, the stem has 3 to 5 sides. The roots are fibrous, and while underground stems can be present, they only reach a maximum length of 2.5 cm.
This plant is known as tayoc-tayoc in Iloilo, Capiz, and Occidental Negros. It is reported from Pampanga and is called “tab-tabin” in Zambales.
This plant is called tayoc-tayoc in Iloilo, Capiz, and Occidental Negros. It's reported in Pampanga and referred to as “tab-tabin” in Zambales.
The straw produced by tayoc-tayoc is much finer but considerably stiffer than that from tikug, and cannot be considered so good an industrial material. Nevertheless, it is used to some extent in the production of hats and mats, especially in the provinces of Iloilo and Capiz. In Dumalag, Capiz Province, hats are of considerable importance. Mats of tayoc-tayoc are reported as made in Banate and Janiuay, Iloilo Province, but this has not yet been verified.
The straw from tayoc-tayoc is much finer but significantly stiffer than that from tikug, and it isn't considered as good of an industrial material. However, it is still used to some degree in making hats and mats, especially in the provinces of Iloilo and Capiz. In Dumalag, Capiz Province, hats are quite important. Mats made from tayoc-tayoc are said to be produced in Banate and Janiuay, Iloilo Province, but this has not been confirmed yet.
As with tikug, seeds of tayoc-tayoc were obtained and distributed among various provinces to determine whether the propagation of the straw was practicable and if the cultivation of the plant would result in a better material. As yet no definite results have been obtained.
As with tikug, seeds of tayoc-tayoc were collected and shared among different provinces to see if growing the straw was feasible and whether cultivating the plant would produce a superior material. So far, no clear results have been found.
A Rush Straw.
But one rush straw has been brought to the attention of the Bureau of Education; it is the Japanese matting rush, Juncus effusus. This species is distributed over a large part of the globe, being the candle rush of Europe and the common plant of wet ground in the United States. In Japan it is made into beautiful mattings, the handsomest and most costly produced. The pith is also employed for lamp wicks, and probably the “timsim” imported from China and used in oil lamps in the Philippines is obtained from this plant. Juncus effusus has no native name in the Philippines. It is found throughout the Mountain Province and in the Apo region of Mindanao. It attains a height of almost 2 meters where soil and moisture conditions are favorable. The stalk is cylindrical and at the end tapers to a point. It is from 2 to 3 mm. in diameter. The flowers grow in a bunch on the side of the stalk near the top and are light brown in color. At the present time this rush is not utilized in the Philippines, though it is probable that it can be used in the weaving of many articles. If split, a flat straw is obtained by removing the pith. [103]
But one type of rush has been brought to the attention of the Bureau of Education; it is the Japanese matting rush, Juncus effusus. This species is found in many parts of the world, serving as the candle rush in Europe and a common plant in wet areas of the United States. In Japan, it is crafted into beautiful mats, some of the finest and most expensive available. The pith is also used for lamp wicks, and it is likely that the “timsim” imported from China and used in oil lamps in the Philippines comes from this plant. Juncus effusus has no native name in the Philippines. It can be found throughout the Mountain Province and in the Apo region of Mindanao. It can grow up to almost 2 meters tall when the soil and moisture conditions are right. The stalk is cylindrical and tapers to a point at the end, measuring about 2 to 3 mm in diameter. The flowers bloom in a cluster on the side of the stalk near the top and are light brown. Currently, this rush is not being used in the Philippines, although it is likely that it could be utilized in the weaving of various items. If split, a flat straw can be obtained by removing the pith. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
1 Bulletin No. 33 of the Bureau of Education, entitled “Philippine Hats.”
1 Bulletin No. 33 of the Bureau of Education, titled “Philippine Hats.”
2 This office is indebted to Mr. E. D. Merrill, Botanist, Bureau of Science, Manila, P. I., for placing at its disposal an unpublished manuscript on the Flora of Manila. Information from the following sources is also acknowledged:
2 This office is grateful to Mr. E. D. Merrill, Botanist at the Bureau of Science in Manila, P. I., for providing an unpublished manuscript on the Flora of Manila. We also acknowledge information from the following sources:
- Engler and Prantl: The Plant Kingdom.
- Hooker’s Flora of British India, 1894.
- Blanco’s Flora de Filipinas, 1877.
The sugar and alcohol produced by the palms are discussed by Dr. H. D. Gibbs in the Journal of Science, Manila, Vol. VI, Sec. A, No. 3. Hats are also discussed by Mr. C. B. Robinson in the same Journal, Vol. VI, Sec. C, No. 2.
The sugar and alcohol made by the palms are discussed by Dr. H. D. Gibbs in the Journal of Science, Manila, Vol. VI, Sec. A, No. 3. Hats are also discussed by Mr. C. B. Robinson in the same Journal, Vol. VI, Sec. C, No. 2.
3 Buri (in most localities), buli or búle, silag, ebus.
3 Buri (in most places), buli or búle, silag, ebus.
4 It is probable that some of the double Moro mats which will be described under the heading “Pandan Straws” are woven from buri straw.
4 It’s likely that some of the double Moro mats discussed under the section "Pandan Straws" are made from buri straw.
5 Due to the efforts of Elmer D. Merrill and A. D. E. Elmer, Botanists of Manila, aided by Prof. Martelli, of Florence, Italy, our knowledge of Philippine pandans has been greatly broadened. It is hoped that interested persons into whose hands this paper may come will help to extend it by sending specimens of pandans for identification to the Bureau of Education, Manila. Such specimens should consist of the ripe fruit and of at least two full-grown leaves from which no spines or tips have been removed, and which have been cut as close as possible to the stem.
5 Thanks to the efforts of Elmer D. Merrill and A. D. E. Elmer, botanists from Manila, along with Prof. Martelli from Florence, Italy, our understanding of Philippine pandans has significantly improved. We hope that individuals who receive this paper will contribute to expanding our knowledge by sending pandan specimens for identification to the Bureau of Education in Manila. These specimens should include the ripe fruit and at least two fully grown leaves, with no spines or tips removed, cut as close to the stem as possible.
6 Bulletin No. 33, Bureau of Education. Journal of Science, Manila, Vol. VI, Sec. C, No. 2.
6 Bulletin No. 33, Bureau of Education. Journal of Science, Manila, Vol. VI, Sec. C, No. 2.
7 To settle, if possible, the question of whether sabutan flowers and fruits, inquiries and investigations on the ground were made in Tanay and Pililla by a representative of the General Office of the Bureau of Education. The people interviewed in these towns were positive in their statements that they had never seen the fruit of this pandan though they did remember seeing the flower. Every possible effort was made to get accurate, reliable information. An old man was engaged as guide and a male inflorescence of sabutan was found in a patch located on a hillside, under the shade of trees and surrounded by considerable underbrush. The patch, according to the statement of the old man was older than he could remember; the age of the guide was, perhaps, between sixty and seventy years. The flowers were odorous and covered with small brown insects almost hiding the inflorescence.
7 To address the question of whether sabutan flowers and fruits exist, inquiries and investigations were conducted in Tanay and Pililla by a representative from the General Office of the Bureau of Education. The people interviewed in these towns confidently claimed they had never seen the fruit of this pandan, although they did recall seeing the flower. Every effort was made to gather accurate and reliable information. An old man was hired as a guide, and a male inflorescence of sabutan was discovered in a patch located on a hillside, shaded by trees and surrounded by dense underbrush. According to the guide, this patch was older than he could remember; he was estimated to be between sixty and seventy years old. The flowers were fragrant and covered with small brown insects that nearly obscured the inflorescence.
8 Plain double pandan mats, the material of which resembles sabutan, are imported from Singapore and sold by Chinese storekeepers in Manila in large quantities. They are roughly made and the fact that they are double permits the unfinished edges to be turned under and sewed down with coarse red cotton twine. They sell for a little less than the plain, single, Tanay sabutan mats with finished edges.
8 Simple double pandan mats, which are similar to sabutan, are imported from Singapore and sold in large quantities by Chinese shopkeepers in Manila. They are roughly crafted, and the double design allows the unfinished edges to be folded under and stitched down with thick red cotton twine. They are priced slightly lower than the plain, single Tanay sabutan mats that have finished edges.
9 It is very difficult to obtain definite information with exact figures. These statements were made by a woman expert in weaving mats, and owing to the frank answers to the questions put, her information seems more reliable than that of the usual weaver interviewed. Other persons state that from two to six leaves are taken from a plant every month.
9 It's really hard to get solid information with exact numbers. These comments came from a woman who is an expert in weaving mats, and since she answered the questions honestly, her information seems more trustworthy than that of the typical weaver we usually talk to. Other people say that two to six leaves are picked from a plant each month.
11 Sabutan lends itself easily to the fabrication of pocketbooks useful as purses, card-cases or cigarette-cases. From it can also be made very pretty, strong, durable and useful handbags. The weaving of both of these articles has been taken up in the schools of Tanay, but it is not as yet commercial in the town. Sets consisting of a handbag and a pocketbook in the same color and design are attractive.
11 Sabutan is great for making pocketbooks that can be used as purses, card holders, or cigarette cases. It can also be used to create stylish, strong, and durable handbags. Schools in Tanay have started teaching how to weave both of these items, but it hasn't become a commercial activity in the town yet. Matching sets of a handbag and a pocketbook in the same color and design are appealing.
12 Sabutan suckers may be purchased from several firms in Manila at ₱5 per hundred, freight prepaid. In shipping, the plants are packed in baskets so that they can be easily handled. It is believed by persons who have received shipments from this source that the plants will remain in good condition out of the ground for a week or more during shipment. Hence it is not advisable for places more remote than one week from Manila to order any of these plants. For further information see Circular No. 82, s. 1911, Bureau of Education. It is probable that suckers can be obtained from the cultivated plants in about a year after they are set out.
12 Sabutan suckers can be bought from several companies in Manila for ₱5 per hundred, with shipping costs included. During shipping, the plants are packed in baskets for easy handling. People who have received shipments from this supplier believe that the plants can stay healthy for a week or more while in transit. Therefore, it’s not recommended for locations more than a week away from Manila to order these plants. For more details, see Circular No. 82, s. 1911, Bureau of Education. It’s likely that you can get suckers from the cultivated plants roughly a year after they’ve been planted.
13 At this writing no data are at hand as to the preparation of sarakat straw, but it is probably made simply by drying. It is possible that much stronger and more pliable straw could be obtained if a process such as is used in the preparation of sabutan were followed.
13 As of now, there isn't any information available on how sarakat straw is made, but it’s likely just dried. It’s possible that a much stronger and more flexible straw could be produced if a method similar to the one used for making sabutan were applied.
14 Vol. I, No. 1 of the Philippine Agriculturist and Forester. A description of the plant occurs in Mr. A. D. E. Elmer’s leaflets.
14 Vol. I, No. 1 of the Philippine Agriculturist and Forester. A description of the plant can be found in Mr. A. D. E. Elmer’s leaflets.
15 It is probable that the improved Andes stripper can be utilized in the cutting of pandan straws.
15 It’s likely that the upgraded Andes stripper can be used for cutting pandan straws.
16 Arrangements are now being made through the schools for the introduction of sabutan plants into the towns of Majayjay and Luisiana.
16 Plans are currently being organized through the schools to introduce sabutan plants into the towns of Majayjay and Luisiana.
17 Most of the information on “karagumoy” is taken from the report submitted to the Director of Education by Mr. Ralph E. Spencer.
17 Most of the information on “karagumoy” comes from the report submitted to the Director of Education by Mr. Ralph E. Spencer.
18 The average was obtained by measuring accurately a number of specimens of the species sent in to the Bureau of Education from various provinces
18 The average was calculated by precisely measuring several samples of the species that were submitted to the Bureau of Education from different provinces.
19 Its most common name is bariu, spelled also bario, balio, balewe, baleau. In Occidental Negros it is also called, balean, barog in Surigao, batin in Capiz.
19 Its most common name is bariu, also spelled bario, balio, balewe, baleau. In Occidental Negros, it’s also called balean, barog in Surigao, and batin in Capiz.
20 Robinson, in Vol. VI, No. 2, Section C of the Journal of Science, states that this sedge also grows on the eastern side of Luzon.
20 Robinson, in Vol. VI, No. 2, Section C of the Journal of Science, states that this sedge also grows on the eastern side of Luzon.
21 F. meliacea is also known as tikug in Samar but it cannot be used in weaving.
21 F. meliacea is also called tikug in Samar, but it can't be used for weaving.
22 In pulling up tikug the whole stalk can generally be obtained by grasping it a short distance below the top. It is made into small bundles and tied a short distance below the seed heads. Each bundle contains from forty to sixty straws. In all towns except Basey the weavers gather the stalks they use. At Basey, however, where weaving of mats is a recognized industry, the straw is obtained from country people who make it a business to gather and sell it. These tikug vendors carry the bundles of green straw to the town, where they sell for from forty centavos to one peso per hundred bundles, depending upon the length of the straws.
22 When pulling up tikug, you can generally get the whole stalk by grabbing it a bit below the top. It's bundled into small packs and tied just below the seed heads. Each bundle has around forty to sixty straws. In every town except Basey, the weavers collect the stalks they use. However, in Basey, where mat weaving is a well-known industry, the straw comes from local people who make it their job to gather and sell it. These tikug vendors carry the bundles of green straw to town, where they sell for between forty centavos to one peso per hundred bundles, depending on the length of the straws.
23 The high cost of these dyes results from the adulteration practiced and the exorbitant profits, usually about 450 per cent. It is expected that the new dyes obtained from Germany through the Bureau of Education will make a saving of about 80 per cent to the workers.
23 The high cost of these dyes comes from the practice of mixing in cheaper substances and the outrageous profits, typically around 450 percent. It's anticipated that the new dyes sourced from Germany via the Bureau of Education will save workers about 80 percent.
24 The following story is reported as showing the cleverness of the weavers of Basey in embroidering designs on mats. An engineer in charge of road construction refused to buy certain mats from a vendor but stated, jokingly, and in order to be rid of the insistent merchant, that if he were brought mats having designs which were of interest to him, as showing scenes connected with his work, he would buy them. In a few weeks the broker returned, bringing with him a large mat on which were displayed a road roller, wheel barrows, shovels, spades and other implements connected with road building, and part of a road itself.
24 The following story illustrates the skill of the weavers from Basey in creating embroidered designs on mats. An engineer overseeing road construction declined to buy certain mats from a vendor but jokingly mentioned that if he were shown mats featuring designs related to his work, he would consider buying them. A few weeks later, the broker returned with a large mat showcasing a road roller, wheelbarrows, shovels, spades, and other tools associated with road building, along with a portion of a road itself.
25 In general it may be stated that the sabutan and tikug mats are the strongest made in the Philippines. Neither the wearing qualities of the straw nor the permanency of the dyes in buri mats are equal to those of tikug. If tikug floor mats become dirty they may be cleaned without injury if the dyeing was well done. They should be shaken to remove dust and dirt, laid flat on the floor and lightly scrubbed with a cloth, sponge or brush, using lukewarm soapsuds, after which cold water should be thrown on them. They are dried by hanging in the sunshine or the breeze.
25 Generally, it's safe to say that sabutan and tikug mats are the strongest ones made in the Philippines. The durability of the straw and the permanence of the dyes in buri mats can't compare to those in tikug mats. If tikug floor mats get dirty, they can be cleaned without damage, as long as the dyeing was done properly. They should be shaken to get rid of dust and dirt, laid flat on the floor, and gently scrubbed with a cloth, sponge, or brush using lukewarm soapy water, followed by rinsing with cold water. They are dried by hanging in the sun or in a breeze.
26 A firm has recently entered the field and is doing a mail order business in these mats with the United States. Their plans include the furnishing of straw and dyes to the weavers and the weaving of standard designs.
26 A company has recently started operating in this area and is running a mail order business for these mats across the United States. Their plans involve providing straw and dyes to the weavers and producing standard designs.
27 Most of the information given under this heading was taken from reports by Percy M. Jones and Frank Thomason, formerly supervising teachers of Bohol.
27 Most of the information provided under this heading comes from reports by Percy M. Jones and Frank Thomason, who were previously supervising teachers in Bohol.
Embroidered Mat Designs.1
It is better not to decorate a mat at all than to have the design ill fitting. Design is the pleasing arrangement of all spaces unfilled as well as filled. Decoration is for beauty wholly. If all the spaces are not well arranged, the design is not beautiful. If the design is startling or gaudy in color, it is not beautiful. If the arrangement of colors is inharmonious, the design is not beautiful. All mats cannot be in the same proportion and suitable for all designs. Plate LXV, for instance, shows a long design; it requires a long mat, and would not look well on a square one.
It’s better not to decorate a mat at all than to have a design that doesn’t fit well. Design is about the pleasing arrangement of both filled and unfilled spaces. Decoration is purely for beauty. If the spaces aren’t arranged well, the design isn’t beautiful. If the design is shocking or overly bright in color, it isn’t beautiful. If the color arrangement is off, the design isn’t beautiful. Not all mats can be in the same proportion and work for all designs. Plate LXV, for example, shows a long design; it needs a long mat and wouldn’t look good on a square one.
All mats here considered are about ⅛ inch to ¼ inch in width of straw. Some of the designs are used exactly as they are, counting a straw for a square which represents a straw in the design; the others are double in size and contain four times as many squares in the weave as in the design. In such cases twice the count of the design will always give the right number for the weave.
All the mats we're talking about are about ⅛ inch to ¼ inch wide in straw. Some of the designs are used just as they are, counting one straw for each square that represents a straw in the design; the others are double the size and have four times as many squares in the weave as in the design. In these cases, doubling the count of the design will always give the correct number for the weave.
In circular mats the directions are given in inches. The sizes of the mats should be taken into consideration, but a variance of a few inches will not matter if that variance always makes the mat larger rather than smaller. In these mats more is left to the judgment of the weaver than in rectangular mats. Designs should never be crowded on circular mats. Repeated groups should always be made exactly alike.
In circular mats, the measurements are provided in inches. The sizes of the mats should be considered, but a difference of a few inches isn't a big deal as long as it always makes the mat larger instead of smaller. With these mats, the weaver has more leeway than with rectangular ones. Designs should never be cramped on circular mats. Repeated patterns should always be identical.
In the color notes, a series of colors set off by commas indicates that each series may be used alone for the whole design. Often the deep colors, especially No. 1, have been left out, as the effect of a very dark color on a very light mat is often startling. Designs on mats or hangings should not be more conspicuous than the mat itself, but should rather present a complete and harmonious appearance when both mat and design are considered as a whole. [106]
In the color notes, a list of colors separated by commas shows that each list can be used on its own for the entire design. Often, the darker colors, especially No. 1, have been excluded because the contrast of a very dark color against a very light mat can be quite shocking. Designs on mats or hangings shouldn't stand out more than the mat itself; instead, they should create a cohesive and harmonious look when both the mat and the design are viewed together. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Circular Mats.
Design A.
The straws of a circular mat cannot be counted and then divided equally by numbers, as straws are continually added at irregular intervals as the circumference is being reached. Hence, the only way to place designs on a mat of this kind is by dividing the whole mat with a diameter through its center.
The straws of a round mat can’t be counted and divided equally because new straws keep getting added at random intervals as the edge is reached. So, the only way to create designs on this type of mat is by cutting the whole mat in half with a line through its center.

Plate LIX. Circular mat, Design A.
Plate LIX. Circular mat, Design A.
Fold the mat and make a crease at the edges or mark a diameter through it with a pencil; at right angles to this diameter draw another through the same center, and the mat will now be divided into equal quadrants. The quadrants may again be divided and subdivided, and marked by pencil or with strings.
Fold the mat and create a crease at the edges, or mark a diameter across it with a pencil; then, draw another line at a right angle to this diameter through the same center, and now the mat will be split into equal quadrants. The quadrants can be further divided and subdivided, and marked with a pencil or with strings.

Plate LX. Circular mat, Design B.
Plate LX. Circular mat, Design B.
In Design A the mat is about 57 inches in diameter. In a mat of this size there would be 48 units in the circle with a margin of 1½ inches from the outer edge of the outer border line to the circumference of the mat. Divide the mat into halves, quarters, eighths, and sixteenths, and measure with strings. Each sixteenth contains three units. Divide this space into three equal parts. [107]
In Design A, the mat is approximately 57 inches wide. On a mat this size, there would be 48 units in the circle, with a margin of 1½ inches from the outer edge of the border line to the edge of the mat. Split the mat into halves, quarters, eighths, and sixteenths, and use strings to measure. Each sixteenth contains three units. Divide this space into three equal parts. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Now embroider in each third one exact unit. In weaving in the unit, always commence on its outer edge; then if any slight variation of space has occurred, the irregularity will not be noticeable, as it will be in the line work of the unit, and not in its solid part. Each unit made in working as suggested from the outer edge inward will begin the other half of a solid figure already commenced. Notice the part of the design which has been marked off as one unit, and adhere to that arrangement.
Now embroider an exact unit in every third section. When weaving in the unit, always start on its outer edge; this way, if there are any slight spacing variations, the irregularity won’t be noticeable since it will be in the line work of the unit, not its solid area. Each unit worked as suggested from the outer edge inward will begin the second half of a solid figure that’s already started. Pay attention to the part of the design that has been outlined as one unit, and stick to that arrangement.
This design may be placed on a mat 57 inches in diameter, or 114 inches in diameter making each figure with twice as many straws as in the first.
This design can be put on a mat that is 57 inches wide or 114 inches wide, using twice as many straws for each figure compared to the first one.
In ticug mats of natural straw, this design may be done in the following colors:
In ticu mats made from natural straw, this design can be done in the following colors:
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16. (12 and 16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16. (12 and 16 shouldn't be used on sabutan.)
No. 14, with a solid diamond and outer border line in No. 3.
No. 14, featuring a solid diamond and an outer border line in No. 3.
No. 3, 6, 9, or 10, with outer border line extending to edge of mat.
No. 3, 6, 9, or 10, with the outer border line going to the edge of the mat.
Design B.
In Design B, the mat should be 56 inches in diameter. In each sixteenth of the mat, as in Design A, three units can be spaced. Note the unit marked off in the design and use only this unit; weave its two outer solid parts first, with the irregularities of space occurring in the open part of the unit.2
In Design B, the mat should be 56 inches wide. Just like in Design A, you can fit three units in each sixteenth of the mat. Pay attention to the unit outlined in the design and only use that unit; start by weaving its two solid outer parts first, leaving the irregular spaces in the open section of the unit.2
Mats woven for this design should be 56 or 112 inches in diameter. In mats of the latter size the numbers of straws are all doubled.
Mats made for this design should be 56 or 112 inches in diameter. In mats of the larger size, the number of straws is doubled.
In mats of natural straw, the following colors may be used:
In mats made of natural straw, you can use the following colors:
No. 2, 3, 6, 10, 15, or 16. (16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 2, 3, 6, 10, 15, or 16. (16 shouldn't be used on sabutan.)
Circular Fish Design.
This design calls for the division of a circular mat into sixths or twelfths, according to the size of the mat. The diameters of mats for this design may be, 244 (about 4 feet); 304 (5 feet); 335 (6 feet); and 366 straws (7 feet). To divide a circle into sixths, mark off the circumference into distances equal to ½ of the diameter.
This design involves dividing a circular mat into sixths or twelfths, depending on the size of the mat. The diameters of mats for this design can be 244 cm (about 4 feet), 304 cm (5 feet), 335 cm (6 feet), and 366 cm (7 feet). To divide a circle into sixths, mark the circumference at intervals equal to half of the diameter.
In a mat of 244 straws diameter, make the outside border line one inch from the edges of the mat. About 9 inches inside of the outer border line, weave another border line one-half inch [108]wide. Midway between these two border lines, measure and mark the space for the center fish, making it 30 counts long, 20 on the left and 10 on the right of the dividing line.
In a mat with a diameter of 244 straws, create the outer border line one inch from the edges of the mat. About 9 inches inside the outer border line, weave another border line that's half an inch wide. Halfway between these two border lines, measure and mark the space for the center fish, making it 30 counts long, with 20 on the left and 10 on the right of the dividing line.
Measure spaces on the other five dividing lines to locate the central fish of each group. After weaving these central fish, go back to the first group, estimate and mark the place for the upper fish and the lower fish, and weave them, making each of the same size and proportion as the central fish, as shown in the design.
Measure the spaces on the other five dividing lines to find the central fish of each group. After weaving these central fish, return to the first group, estimate and mark the spots for the upper fish and the lower fish, and weave them, ensuring each is the same size and proportion as the central fish, as shown in the design.
In mat 304, as noted above, the border lines and all the fish are the same size as in mat 244.
In mat 304, as mentioned earlier, the border lines and all the fish are the same size as in mat 244.
In mat 335 all measurements are the same as in the above mats, except that the circle is divided into twelfths instead of sixths, making twice as many groups of fish.
In mat 335, all measurements are the same as in the mats mentioned above, except that the circle is divided into twelfths instead of sixths, resulting in twice as many groups of fish.

Plate LXI. Circular fish design.
Plate LXI. Round fish design.
In mat 366 the outer border line is 2 inches from the edge of the mat instead of 1 inch and is 1½ inches thick. The other measurements are the same as in mat 335.
In mat 366, the outer border line is 2 inches from the edge of the mat instead of 1 inch and is 1½ inches thick. The other measurements are the same as in mat 335.
In mats of natural straw, the following colors may be used: No. 2, 3, 6, 10, 12, or 15. (12 should not be used on sabutan.)
In mats made of natural straw, you can use the following colors: No. 2, 3, 6, 10, 12, or 15. (Avoid using 12 on sabutan.)
Gecko Design.
Mats woven for this design should be of the following diameters: 304 (5 feet); 335 (6 feet); 366 straws (7 feet).
Mats made for this design should be of the following diameters: 304 (5 feet); 335 (6 feet); 366 straws (7 feet).

Plate LXII. Gecko design.
Plate 62. Gecko design.
Divide the circle into sixths, then into twelfths. Weave a border band on the edge of the mat ¾ inch wide. This band is not in the design but will come outside, and reach to the circumference line in the design. Down one of the twelve dividing lines, inside the border band, measure off 3½ inches and [110]weave a gecko, half on one side and half on the other side of the line, extending the tail about 5½ inches toward the center of the mat. Weave the two on each side of this gecko, and the four above it. Now space and weave the other five groups. Each group contains seven figures.
Divide the circle into six equal parts, then divide it into twelve. Weave a border band on the edge of the mat that is ¾ inch wide. This band isn’t part of the design but will extend outward, reaching the circumference line of the design. Along one of the twelve dividing lines, inside the border band, measure 3½ inches and [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]weave a gecko, with half on one side and half on the other side of the line, extending the tail about 5½ inches toward the center of the mat. Weave two on each side of this gecko, and four above it. Now space out and weave the other five groups. Each group contains seven figures.
The only difference in the larger mats will be in the spacing between the tails. The groups should be spaced the same as before.
The only difference in the larger mats will be the spacing between the tails. The groups should be spaced the same way as before.
In ticug mats of natural straw, the following colors may be used:
In ticug mats made of natural straw, you can use the following colors:
No. 1 with band of No. 3.
No. 1 with band of No. 3.
No. 1 with band of No. 9.
No. 1 with band of No. 9.
No. 12 with band of No. 15. (No. 3 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 12 with a band of No. 15. (No. 3 shouldn't be used on sabutan.)
No. (singly) 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, or 15.
No. (singly) 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, or 15.
Geometric Design F.
The distance from A (the corner of the mat) to B is 12 straws;
from B to C is 2;
from C to D is 18;
from D to E is 29;
from D to H is 16;
from H to I is 32;
from E to F is 19; and
from F to G is 5.
The distance from A (the corner of the mat) to B is 12 straws;
from B to C is 2;
from C to D is 18;
from D to E is 29;
from D to H is 16;
from H to I is 32;
from E to F is 19; and
from F to G is 5.
Count from A to B. Weave from B to C and on around the entire mat.
Count from A to B. Weave from B to C and continue all around the mat.
Count from C to D and weave corner D H J E L. Weave all of the four corner designs exactly like D H J E L. Count from E to F and weave the two inner border lines around the entire mat.
Count from C to D and weave corner D H J E L. Weave all four corner designs exactly like D H J E L. Count from E to F and weave the two inner border lines around the entire mat.
Now count from H to I and mark similar points across one side. Weave from H to I. Weave from I to the next point (32 counts distant) the exact design between H and I. Weave at each point marked. Complete all four sides in a similar manner.
Now count from H to I and mark the same points along one side. Weave from H to I. Weave from I to the next point (32 counts away) with the exact pattern you created between H and I. Weave at each marked point. Finish all four sides in the same way.
Mats woven for this design should be made in the following sizes:
Mats created for this design should be made in the following sizes:
310 by 534—from A to B is 34 straws;
266 by 394—from A to B is 22;
512 by 704—from A to B is 12;
320 by 512—from A to B is 12 (double count);
320 by 576—from A to B is 12 (double count).
310 by 534—from A to B is 34 straws;
266 by 394—from A to B is 22;
512 by 704—from A to B is 12;
320 by 512—from A to B is 12 (double count);
320 by 576—from A to B is 12 (double count).
In the last two sizes make the design twice as large as the [111]count; that is, A B should be 24, B C should be 4, C D should be 36, etc.
In the last two sizes, make the design twice the size of the [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]count; that is, A B should be 24, B C should be 4, C D should be 36, and so on.

Plate LXIII. Geometric Design F.
Plate 63. Geometric Design F.

Plate LXIV. Geometric Design V.
Plate 64. Geometric Design V.
In mats of natural color straw, the following colors may be used:
In mats made of naturally colored straw, the following colors can be used:
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16, each alone. (12 and 16 should not be used on sabutan.) [112]
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16, each used individually. (12 and 16 shouldn't be used on sabutan.) [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Geometric Design V.
The distance from the corner of the mat A to B is 22 straws;
from B to C is 12;
from C to D is 4;
from D to F is 2;
from D to E is 15;
from F to G is 15;
from L to M is 14;
from C to N is 38;
from N to O is 12;
from F to P is 20; and
from P to Q is 25.
The distance from the corner of the mat A to B is 22 straws;
from B to C is 12;
from C to D is 4;
from D to F is 2;
from D to E is 15;
from F to G is 15;
from L to M is 14;
from C to N is 38;
from N to O is 12;
from F to P is 20; and
from P to Q is 25.
Count from A to B. At B weave the corner double square and continue on at FD to GE. Now weave the double square G H J E. Next weave the double squares in all four corners of the mat.
Count from A to B. At B, weave the corner double square and continue on at FD to GE. Now weave the double square G H J E. Next, weave the double squares in all four corners of the mat.
Now count from P to Q and mark. In the same way mark all the centers of the squares along the outer border line from corner to corner. Weave these squares, then the lines joining them. Weave down from L to M and continue the design on the inner border line, making double lines like L M as the weaving progresses.
Now count from P to Q and mark it. In the same way, mark all the centers of the squares along the outer border line from corner to corner. Weave these squares, then the lines connecting them. Weave down from L to M and keep going with the design on the inner border line, creating double lines like L M as the weaving continues.
Mats woven for this design should be of the following sizes:
228 by 378—from A to B is 22 straws;
253 by 403—from A to B is 22 straws;
311 by 536—from A to B is 30 straws;
536 by 686—from A to B is 30 straws.
Mats made for this design should be the following sizes:
228 by 378—from A to B is 22 straws;
253 by 403—from A to B is 22 straws;
311 by 536—from A to B is 30 straws;
536 by 686—from A to B is 30 straws.
In straw mats of natural color, the following colors may be used: No. 2, 3, 6, 10, or 15.
In natural-colored straw mats, you can use the following colors: No. 2, 3, 6, 10, or 15.
Geometric Design X.
The distance from A (corner of mat) to B is 22 straws (counting the
fold at A);
from B to C is 8;
from C to D is 5;
from D to E is 4;
from E to F is 20;
from F to G is 4;
from G to H is 3;
from H to I is 6; and
from J to L is 52.
The distance from A (corner of mat) to B is 22 straws (including the fold at A);
from B to C is 8;
from C to D is 5;
from D to E is 4;
from E to F is 20;
from F to G is 4;
from G to H is 3;
from H to I is 6; and
from J to L is 52.

Plate LXV. Geometric Design X.
Plate 65. Geometric Design X.
Count from A to B and weave border line around the entire [114]mat. Count from B to C and weave C D and over to J, back to H, over to K and back to C. Weave inner part of corner design. Weave inner border line at I entirely around the mat. Weave all four corner designs. Mark off J L, and L M, and M N, etc., until the corner is reached, making L M, M N, etc., each equal to J L. Weave all designs on side now spaced off. Space off and mark each side of the mat, before weaving. Weave all sides, completing the mat.
Count from A to B and weave a border line around the entire [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]mat. Count from B to C and weave C, D, and over to J, back to H, over to K, and back to C. Weave the inner part of the corner design. Weave the inner border line at I completely around the mat. Weave all four corner designs. Mark off J L, L M, M N, etc., until you reach the corner, making L M, M N, etc., each equal to J L. Weave all designs on the sides that are now spaced off. Mark and space each side of the mat before weaving. Weave all sides to finish the mat.
Mats woven for this design should be in the following sizes:
269 by 425;
321 by 529;
425 by 685;
165 by 425.
Mats made for this design should be in the following sizes:
269 by 425;
321 by 529;
425 by 685;
165 by 425.
In mats of uncolored straw, the following colors may be used:
In mats of uncolored straw, you can use the following colors:
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, or 16. (12 and 16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, or 16. (Don't use 12 and 16 on sabutan.)
Geometric Design Z.
The distance from the corner A to B is 12 straws;
from B to C is 3;
from C to D is 16;
from D to E is 8;
from E to F is 26;
from F to G is 17;
from G to H is 4;
from D to K is 17;
from K to L is 12;
from L to M is 17; and
from I to J is 29.
The distance from corner A to B is 12 straws;
from B to C is 3;
from C to D is 16;
from D to E is 8;
from E to F is 26;
from F to G is 17;
from G to H is 4;
from D to K is 17;
from K to L is 12;
from L to M is 17; and
from I to J is 29.
Count down from A to B and weave the border lines B C around the entire mat. Count from C to D and weave the outer square of the corner figure. Complete the corner figure to I and N. Count from F to G and weave G H around the entire mat. Complete all four corner designs.
Count down from A to B and weave the border lines B C around the whole mat. Count from C to D and weave the outer square of the corner figure. Finish the corner figure to I and N. Count from F to G and weave G H around the entire mat. Complete all four corner designs.
Count from I to J and mark. From J count a distance equal to I J and
mark. Make similar marks until the corner is reached. Weave the design
I L M J between all these marks. Space off each side of the mat in the
same way and finish the design on all sides.
Mats woven for this design should be of the following sizes:
309 by 541—from A to B is 12 straws;
319 by 551—from A to B is 22 straws;
280 by 454—from A to B is 12 straws;
551 by 696—from A to B is 22 straws. [115]
Count from I to J and mark. From J, measure a distance equal to I J and mark. Continue making similar marks until you reach the corner. Weave the design I L M J between all these marks. Space out each side of the mat in the same way and complete the design on all sides.
Mats woven for this design should be the following sizes:
309 by 541—from A to B is 12 straws;
319 by 551—from A to B is 22 straws;
280 by 454—from A to B is 12 straws;
551 by 696—from A to B is 22 straws. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
On mats of uncolored straw, the following colors may be used:
On mats of natural straw, you can use the following colors:
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 15, or 16. (16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 15, or 16. (16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 14 for border lines and the four large spots in the side of each square; No. 3 for the remainder of the design.
No. 14 for the border lines and the four large dots on the side of each square; No. 3 for the rest of the design.
No. 12 with spots and border lines of No. 3.
No. 12 with spots and border lines of No. 3.

Plate LXVI. Geometric Design Z.
Plate 66. Geometric Design Z.
Large Banca Design.3
Distance from corner A to B is 41 straws;
from B to C, 2;
from B to G, 31;
from G to S, 5;
from C to D, 35;
from D to E, 2; and
from D to F, 10.
Distance from corner A to B is 41 straws;
from B to C, 2;
from B to G, 31;
from G to S, 5;
from C to D, 35;
from D to E, 2; and
from D to F, 10.
Begin weaving at letter B and weave the outer border line around the entire mat. Next weave the inside border line beginning at D. [116]
Begin weaving at letter B and weave the outer border around the entire mat. Next, weave the inner border starting at D. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
After finishing the border lines, weave all four corner designs.
After completing the border lines, weave all four corner designs.
Count from C to H, 9 straws;
from H to I, 5;
from I to J, 27;
from J to K, 5;
from L to M, 6; and
from N to O, 8.
Count from C to H, 9 straws;
from H to I, 5;
from I to J, 27;
from J to K, 5;
from L to M, 6; and
from N to O, 8.
Now weave from O to P. From P to Q is 4 straws, and from P to R is 7 straws.
Now weave from O to P. From P to Q is 4 straws, and from P to R is 7 straws.
Mats woven for this design should be:
239 by 425;
301 by 487;
301 by 549;
555 by 741.
Mats made for this design should be:
239 by 425;
301 by 487;
301 by 549;
555 by 741.
In the last mat, 555 by 741, G to S is 8 instead of 5.
In the last mat, 555 by 741, G to S is 8 instead of 5.
On ticug mats of natural straw this design may be embroidered in the following colors:
On natural straw ticug mats, this design can be embroidered in the following colors:
No. 2, 3, 6, or 15, solid.
No. 2, 3, 6, or 15, solid.
No. 14 with border lines of No. 15 (except on sabutan).
No. 14 with border lines of No. 15 (except on sabutan).
No. 14 with border lines of No. 9.
No. 14 with border lines of No. 9.
Chick Design.
The distance from A to B is 50 straws (count first fold);
from B to C is 21;
from C to D is 6;
from D to E is 19;
from E to F is 7;
from F to G is 18;
from H to I is 5; and
from G to J is 54.
The distance from A to B is 50 straws (count first fold);
from B to C is 21;
from C to D is 6;
from D to E is 19;
from E to F is 7;
from F to G is 18;
from H to I is 5; and
from G to J is 54.

Plate LXVII. Large banca design.
Plate 67. Large banca design.
[117]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Count down from corner A to B and weave the corner design. Now weave all four corner designs. Begin at F and weave the inner border line entirely around the mat.
Count down from corner A to B and weave the corner design. Now weave all four corner designs. Start at F and weave the inner border line all the way around the mat.
Count from F to G and weave the design above G. Count from H to I and weave the second design. Now count from G to J and weave the figure above J exactly like the figure above G.
Count from F to G and weave the design above G. Count from H to I and weave the second design. Now count from G to J and weave the figure above J exactly like the figure above G.
Mats woven for this design should be 254 by 416, 308 by 524, 416 by 524, or 590 by 806 straws. The last mat has a change in margin, and the distance from A to B is 58 straws.
Mats made for this design should be 254 by 416, 308 by 524, 416 by 524, or 590 by 806 straws. The last mat has a change in margin, and the distance from A to B is 58 straws.
This mat may be embroidered in the following colors:
This mat can be embroidered in the following colors:
No. 3, 6, 10, or 15.
No. 3, 6, 10, or 15.

Plate LXVIII. Chick design.
Plate 68. Chick design.
Orchid Design.
The distance from the corner A to B is 13 straws;
from B to C, 2;
from C to D, 19;
from D to E, 35;
from E to F, 17;
from C to F, 71;
from F to G, 2;
from G to H, 19;
from M to N, 6;
from F to M, 67;
from M to K, 13; and
from K to J, 19.
The distance from point A to B is 13 straws;
from B to C, 2;
from C to D, 19;
from D to E, 35;
from E to F, 17;
from C to F, 71;
from F to G, 2;
from G to H, 19;
from M to N, 6;
from F to M, 67;
from M to K, 13; and
from K to J, 19.
Begin weaving at B and weave the outside border line around the entire mat. Next count from C to F and weave the inside border line. Now weave [119]all four corner designs. Count from F to M, then up to K, and weave from K to J.4
Begin weaving at B and create the border around the entire mat. Then, count from C to F and weave the inner border. Now weave [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] all four corner designs. Count from F to M, then up to K, and weave from K to J.4

Plate LXIX. Orchid design.
Plate 69. Orchid design.
To find the position of the next design count 81 straws beyond L along the inner border line, and then up the same distance as L K.
To locate the position of the next design, count 81 straws beyond L along the inner border line, and then go up the same distance as L K.
Mats woven for this design should be 301 by 544; 220 by 382; 301 by 463; and 550 by 712 straws. In mat 550 by 712, A B is 17 straws.
Mats made for this design should be 301 by 544; 220 by 382; 301 by 463; and 550 by 712 straws. In the mat 550 by 712, A B is 17 straws.
In mats of natural color straw, the following colors may be used in the designs:
In mats made of naturally colored straw, the following colors can be used in the designs:
No. 2, 3, 6, or 15 solid.
No. 2, 3, 6, or 15 are solid.
No. 3 with flowers of No. 1 and border lines of No. 9 except on sabutan.
No. 3 with flowers from No. 1 and border lines from No. 9, except on sabutan.
No. 12 with flowers of No. 7 and border lines of No. 15.
No. 12 with flowers from No. 7 and border lines from No. 15.
Woman Carrying Clothes Design.
The distance from A to B is 29 straws;
from B to C is 2;
from C to D is 36;
from I to J is 3;
from B to E is 11;
from E to K is 9;
from E to F is 21;
from F to G is 3; and
from G to H is 10.
The distance from A to B is 29 straws;
from B to C is 2;
from C to D is 36;
from I to J is 3;
from B to E is 11;
from E to K is 9;
from E to F is 21;
from F to G is 3; and
from G to H is 10.
Count from A, the corner of the mat, to B. At B begin to weave the border line. Weave first to E, then entirely around the mat.
Count from A, the corner of the mat, to B. At B, start weaving the border line. Weave first to E, then all the way around the mat.

Plate LXX. Woman carrying clothes design.
Plate LXX. Woman carrying clothes design.
Now count from C to D and weave the inner border line entirely around the mat. Next, weave in the four [120]corner designs. Count from E to F, then down to G. From G to H is 10 straws. Now weave the first two designs on the side and then the next two, and so on.
Now count from C to D and weave the inner border line completely around the mat. Next, weave in the four [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]corner designs. Count from E to F, then down to G. From G to H is 10 straws. Now weave the first two designs on the side, then the next two, and keep going.
Mats woven for this design should be 300 by 392; 304 by 534; 254 by 346; or 568 by 706.
Mats made for this design should be 300 by 392; 304 by 534; 254 by 346; or 568 by 706.
On all of these mats the design will look better if twice the size of the pattern. Therefore all the above distances will be double, or as follows:
On all of these mats, the design will look better if the pattern is twice the size. So, all the distances mentioned above will be doubled, or as follows:
A to B, 58 straws;
B to C, 4;
B to E, 22;
E to F, 42;
C to D, 72 straws;
I to J, 6;
E to K, 18;
F to G, 6.
A to B, 58 straws;
B to C, 4;
B to E, 22;
E to F, 42;
C to D, 72 straws;
I to J, 6;
E to K, 18;
F to G, 6.
In mat 304 by 534, E to K is 20 and A to B is 51 (already double). In mat 568 by 706, from A (corner of mat) to B is 39, making E to K 14 straws (already doubled).
In mat 304 by 534, E to K is 20 and A to B is 51 (already double). In mat 568 by 706, from A (corner of mat) to B is 39, making E to K 14 straws (already doubled).
This design in ticug straw will work up well in No. 5 solid; in No. 4 solid; in No. 3 solid; in No. 5 with No. 2 as inner and outer border line, or with No. 1 as inner and outer border line.
This design in ticug straw will look good in No. 5 solid; in No. 4 solid; in No. 3 solid; in No. 5 with No. 2 as the inner and outer border line, or with No. 1 as the inner and outer border line.
This design on sabutan straw may be made in No. 1 solid; in No. 2 solid; in No. 5 solid; in No. 6 solid; in No. 2 with No. 1 for border lines; in No. 4 with No. 1 for border lines; or in No. 5 with No. 1 for border lines.
This design on sabutan straw can be made in No. 1 solid; in No. 2 solid; in No. 5 solid; in No. 6 solid; in No. 2 with No. 1 for border lines; in No. 4 with No. 1 for border lines; or in No. 5 with No. 1 for border lines.
This design will work up well in the following colors: No. 2, 3, 6, or 15.
This design will look great in these colors: No. 2, 3, 6, or 15.
Lavandera Design.
The distance from A to B is 15 straws;
from B to C is 4;
from C to D is 40;
from D to E is 21;
from E to F is 3;
from F to G is 4;
from G to H is 3;
from D to I is 12;
from I to J is 13;
from I to K is 18;
from K to O is 5;
from O to L is 2;
from L to M is 26; and
from M to N is 28.
The distance from A to B is 15 straws;
from B to C is 4;
from C to D is 40;
from D to E is 21;
from E to F is 3;
from F to G is 4;
from G to H is 3;
from D to I is 12;
from I to J is 13;
from I to K is 18;
from K to O is 5;
from O to L is 2;
from L to M is 26; and
from M to N is 28.
Count down from A to B and mark B and C. Place similar marks at the three other corners of the mat. Weave the border [122]line around the entire mat, touching the marked points. Count from C to G, mark, and do the same in the other three corners.
Count down from A to B and mark B and C. Place similar marks at the other three corners of the mat. Weave the border [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__] line around the whole mat, touching the marked points. Count from C to G, mark it, and do the same in the other three corners.

Plate LXXI. Lavandera design.
Plate 71. Laundry design.
Weave G H around the mat, touching the marked points at the corners. Count from C to D and over to I, and weave I J. Weave the whole figure just started, and the figure facing it, including the ground line beneath. Weave the other corners in a similar manner.
Weave G H around the mat, touching the marked points at the corners. Count from C to D and then over to I, and weave I J. Weave the entire figure that was just started, along with the figure facing it, including the ground line beneath. Weave the other corners the same way.
At K count to O, back to L, over to M, and weave the figure beneath M. Mark off L M and M N. Now continue marking alternately across the side spaces equal to L M and M N, making the last space equal to L M. Weave the figure between these marks and continue marking and weaving in the same way on the other sides.
At K count to O, back to L, over to M, and weave the shape underneath M. Mark off L M and M N. Now keep marking alternately across the side spaces equal to L M and M N, making the last space equal to L M. Weave the shape between these marks and keep marking and weaving in the same way on the other sides.
Mats woven for this design should be made:
237 by 399;
345 by 507;
690 by 1014 (units double size);
453 by 615.
Mats for this design should be made:
237 by 399;
345 by 507;
690 by 1014 (units are double size);
453 by 615.
In ticug mats of natural straw the following colors may be used:
In mats made of natural straw, the following colors can be used:
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 15, or 16, solid. (16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 15, or 16, solid. (16 shouldn't be used on sabutan.)
Man with Bow and Arrow Design.
The distance from A to B is 20 straws;
from B to C is 2;
from C to D is 30;
from D to E is 17;
from E to F is 66;
from F to G is 3;
from G to H is 11½;
from H to I is 9;
from J to K is 17;
from I to L is 33; and
from L to M is 14½.
The distance from A to B is 20 straws;
from B to C is 2;
from C to D is 30;
from D to E is 17;
from E to F is 66;
from F to G is 3;
from G to H is 11.5;
from H to I is 9;
from J to K is 17;
from I to L is 33; and
from L to M is 14.5.
Count from A to B. At B weave the border band around the entire mat. Count from C to F (113) and weave the inner border line around the entire mat. Now weave all four corner designs. Count from G to H and up to I, and weave the two figures.
Count from A to B. At B, weave the border band around the entire mat. Count from C to F (113) and weave the inner border line around the entire mat. Now weave all four corner designs. Count from G to H and up to I, and weave the two figures.
To place the next two figures, which are exactly like the two just woven, count out from J, 17 straws, and repeat from K which is the tip of the arrow of the first figure, just made. [123]
To position the next two figures, which are identical to the two just created, count out 17 straws from J, and repeat from K, which is the tip of the arrow of the first figure that was just made. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate LXXII. Man with bow and arrow design.
Plate LXXII. Man with bow and arrow design.
Mats woven for this design should be:
345 by 501, 9 straws;
505 by 739, 11;
739 by 1051, 11. [124]
Mats made for this design should be:
345 by 501, 9 straws;
505 by 739, 11;
739 by 1051, 11. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
In mats 505 by 739, and 739 by 1051, from A to B is 24 straws.
In mats 505 by 739, and 739 by 1051, the distance from A to B is 24 straws.
This design in tikug may be worked up in the following colors on natural color straw:
This design in tikug can be created in the following colors on natural straw:
Solid, No. 2, 3, 6, 10, or 15.
Solid, No. 2, 3, 6, 10, or 15.
Casa Design.

Plate LXXIII. Casa design.
Plate 73. House design.
The distance from the corner A to B is 22 straws;
from B to C is 33;
from C to D is 24; and
from F to G is 17.
The distance from corner A to B is 22 straws;
from B to C is 33;
from C to D is 24; and
from F to G is 17.
Count down from A to B and weave border line around the entire mat. Now count from B to D and from D to E, 3½ straws, and commence weaving the inner border line. When completed, weave in all four corner designs. Count from F to G and weave in the next design, and so on. Let H I, the steps, be on the left of every casa except the corner ones.
Count down from A to B and weave a border line around the entire mat. Now count from B to D and from D to E, 3½ straws, and start weaving the inner border line. Once that's done, weave in all four corner designs. Count from F to G and weave in the next design, and so on. Let H I, the steps, be on the left of every casa except the corner ones.
Mats woven for this design should be 254 by 407 straws; 271 by 424; 304 by 542 (double); 406 by 542 (double); or 576 by 712. In the last three of these, 304 by 542, 406 by 542, and 576 by 712, the counts should all be doubled, the designs being twice the size of those in the first two mats; that is, from A to B will be 44, B to C, 66, and so on.
Mats made for this design should be 254 by 407 straws; 271 by 424; 304 by 542 (double); 406 by 542 (double); or 576 by 712. In the last three of these—304 by 542, 406 by 542, and 576 by 712—the counts should all be doubled, meaning the designs are twice the size of those in the first two mats; that is, from A to B will be 44, B to C, 66, and so on.
Tikug mats in natural straw may be embroidered in the following colors:
Tikug mats made of natural straw can be embroidered in these colors:
No. 14 for casa, No. 12 for tree, No. 15 for border lines except on sabutan;
No. 14 for house, No. 12 for tree, No. 15 for border lines except on sabutan;
No. 3 for casa, No. 15 for tree, No. 8 for border lines; and Nos. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16, solid;
No. 3 for house, No. 15 for tree, No. 8 for border lines; and Nos. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16, solid;
No. 16 should not be used on sabutan.
No. 16 shouldn't be used on sabutan.
Chicken Vender Design.
The distance from the corner A to B is 15 straws, counting the corner fold as 1. All counts in this design are woven double. [125]
The distance from corner A to B is 15 straws, counting the corner fold as 1. All counts in this design are woven double. [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Therefore from A to B is 30;
from B to C is 17 by 2 or 34;
from C to D is 44;
from E to G is 16;
from F to H is 14;
from B to D is 78;
from G to I is 24; and
from J to K is 30.
Therefore from A to B is 30;
from B to C is 17 by 2 or 34;
from C to D is 44;
from E to G is 16;
from F to H is 14;
from B to D is 78;
from G to I is 24; and
from J to K is 30.
Notice that the space on the right of the corner is one less than the space on the left; this will occur on the right and left of each corner. Count down from corner A to B and weave a line entirely around the mat. Count from B to D and weave the inner border line. Now weave the basket in each corner. Then weave from G to I and J to K, and so on.
Notice that the space on the right of the corner is one less than the space on the left; this will happen on the right and left of each corner. Count down from corner A to B and weave a line all the way around the mat. Count from B to D and weave the inner border line. Now weave the basket in each corner. Then weave from G to I and J to K, and so on.
Mats woven for this design should be:
332 (7) by 512 (12)—from A to B is 30 straws;
260 (5) by 404 (9)—from A to B is 30;
260 (5) by 476 (11)—from A to B is 30; or
512 by 692 (17)—from A to B is 30.
Mats designed for this design should be:
332 (7) by 512 (12)—from A to B is 30 straws;
260 (5) by 404 (9)—from A to B is 30;
260 (5) by 476 (11)—from A to B is 30; or
512 by 692 (17)—from A to B is 30.
On tikug mats of natural color this design may be embroidered in the following colors:
On natural-colored tikug mats, this design can be embroidered in the following colors:
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16. (16 should not be used on sabutan).
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, 10, 12, 15, or 16. (16 shouldn’t be used on sabutan).
No. 14 with a single straw outline and solid border lines of No. 9, 8, or 3.
No. 14 with a single straw outline and solid border lines of No. 9, 8, or 3.
No. 14 with outlines of No. 3 and baskets and hats of No. 1, except on sabutan.
No. 14 with outlines of No. 3 and baskets and hats of No. 1, except on sabutan.

Plate LXXIV. Chicken vender design.
Plate 74. Chicken vendor design.
[126]
[__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]

Plate LXXV. Carabao cart and driver design.
Plate LXXV. Design of a carabao cart and driver.
Carabao, Cart, and Driver Design.
The distance from A to B is 32 straws, but it must be woven twice that size, making A B equal 64.
The distance from A to B is 32 straws, but it has to be woven twice that size, making A B equal 64.
All the sizes given below are double the count on the drawings:
from A to B is 64;
from B to C is 40;
from C to D is 18;
from D to E is 6;
from D to F is 8;
from A to D is 122;
from B to I is 30; and
from G to H is 16.
All the sizes listed below are twice the count shown in the drawings:
from A to B is 64;
from B to C is 40;
from C to D is 18;
from D to E is 6;
from D to F is 8;
from A to D is 122;
from B to I is 30; and
from G to H is 16.
Count from the corner A to B and weave B C. Count from A to D and mark off D. Count from C to D and test the count. From each corner of the mat make a count similar to A D and mark. Weave the border line, commencing at D, around the entire mat, touching the marks at the corners. Weave design B C, and a similar design in each remaining corner. Count from B to I and weave design I J. At J count 2 and weave another design like I J facing I J. The space between the backs of the carts, not shown on this diagram, is 6.
Count from corner A to B and weave B C. Count from A to D and mark D. Count from C to D and check the count. From each corner of the mat, do a count like A D and mark it. Weave the border line starting at D, going around the whole mat, connecting the marks at the corners. Weave design B C and a similar design in each of the remaining corners. Count from B to I and weave design I J. At J, count 2 and weave another design like I J facing I J. The space between the backs of the carts, which is not shown on this diagram, is 6.
Mats woven for this design should be in the following sizes:
258 by 396;
258 by 534;
396 by 534;
534 by 672; or
672 by 810.
Mats made for this design should be in the following sizes:
258 by 396;
258 by 534;
396 by 534;
534 by 672; or
672 by 810.
In tikug mats of natural color straw the following colors may be used: [127]
In natural color straw tikug mats, the following colors can be used: [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]
Singly, No. 2, 3, 6, 10, or 15; and No. 3 with border line of No. 9.
Singly, No. 2, 3, 6, 10, or 15; and No. 3 with the border line of No. 9.
Rooster Design.
The distance from the corner A to B is 13 by 2 or 26 (counts in this
design are all double);
from B to C is 28 by 2 or 56;
from C to D is 5 by 2 or 10;
from D to E is 26 by 2 or 52;
from E to F is 3 by 2 or 6;
from E to O is 3;
from O to G is 11;
from H to J is 11;
from G to H is 56 by 2 or 112.
The distance from corner A to B is 13 times 2 or 26 (all counts in this design are doubled);
from B to C is 28 times 2 or 56;
from C to D is 5 times 2 or 10;
from D to E is 26 times 2 or 52;
from E to F is 3 times 2 or 6;
from E to O is 3;
from O to G is 11;
from H to J is 11;
from G to H is 56 times 2 or 112.
Count from A to B in all four corners and mark B in each corner. Join all the B’s by a double border line. At the first B, count down to C and over to D and weave D E. Count from E to O and up to G and mark. Mark H, counting from G. Mark J, counting from H. Mark all points similar to H and J on this side of the mat, counting back from the corner a space equal to G B. Now weave all designs on this side of the mat. Mark off spaces on each side of the mat before weaving that side.
Count from A to B in all four corners and mark B in each corner. Connect all the B's with a double border line. At the first B, count down to C and over to D, then weave D to E. Count from E to O and up to G and mark it. Mark H by counting from G. Mark J by counting from H. Mark all points that are similar to H and J on this side of the mat, counting back from the corner a distance equal to G B. Now weave all designs on this side of the mat. Mark off spaces on each side of the mat before weaving that side.

Plate LXXVI. Rooster design.
Plate 76. Rooster design.
Mats woven for this design should be 202 by 538; 314 by 538; or 426 by 650.
Mats made for this design should be 202 by 538; 314 by 538; or 426 by 650.
In tikug mats of natural color straw the following colors may be used:
In natural color straw tikug mats, the following colors can be used:
No. 2, 3, 6, 10, 15, or 16. (16 should not be used on sabutan.)
No. 2, 3, 6, 10, 15, or 16. (16 shouldn't be used on sabutan.)
No. 3, cock; No. 14, comb, (three squares from I to C and two above M); No. 1, legs and feet; No. 15, grass and other [128]border line. (On sabutan use No. 14 instead of No. 1 for legs and feet).
No. 3, rooster; No. 14, comb (three squares from I to C and two above M); No. 1, legs and feet; No. 15, grass and other [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]border line. (On sabutan, use No. 14 instead of No. 1 for legs and feet).
Carabao Head Design.
The distance from A to B is 25 straws;
from B to C is 3;
from C to D is 23;
from D to E is 3;
from E to F is 4;
from F to G is 11;
from G to H is 31;
from F to I is 22;
from H to J is 3;
from I to K is 37;
from L to M is 11;
from I to N is 12;
from N to O is 12½; and
from I to P is 7.
The distance from A to B is 25 straws;
from B to C is 3;
from C to D is 23;
from D to E is 3;
from E to F is 4;
from F to G is 11;
from G to H is 31;
from F to I is 22;
from H to J is 3;
from I to K is 37;
from L to M is 11;
from I to N is 12;
from N to O is 12½; and
from I to P is 7.

Plate LXXVII. Carabao head design.
Plate 77. Carabao head design.
Count from the corner A to B and mark. Count the same number in from every corner and mark. At B weave the border line the thickness of B C around the entire mat, intersecting the marks at the other three corners.
Count from corner A to B and make a mark. Count the same number in from each corner and make a mark. At B, weave the border line the thickness of B C around the entire mat, intersecting the marks at the other three corners.
Count C D and weave the corner design D G. Count from G to H and mark. Count from B to H and see if the mark is correct. Mark off B H in the other three corners and weave the border line H J around the entire mat. Now weave the [130]other three corner designs. Count from F to I and mark. Count from I to K and mark.
Count C D and create the corner design D G. Count from G to H and make a mark. Count from B to H and check if the mark is correct. Mark off B H in the other three corners and weave the border line H J around the whole mat. Now weave the [__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__]other three corner designs. Count from F to I and make a mark. Count from I to K and make a mark.

Plate LXXVIII. Detail of fishtail palm design.
Plate LXXVIII. Detail of fishtail palm design.

Plate LXXIX. Arrangement of fishtail palm designs.
Plate LXXIX. Layout of fishtail palm designs.
From K on, mark off distances like I K along this side of the mat until the last point is reached. The remaining space to the point similar to F will equal I F. Now weave the intervening designs, and complete the mat.
From K on, measure distances like I K along this side of the mat until you reach the last point. The leftover space to the point similar to F will be equal to I F. Now weave the designs in between, and finish the mat.
Mats woven for this design should be of the following sizes:
319 by 541;
257 by 405;
490 by 712; or
393 by 541.
Mats made for this design should be these sizes:
319 by 541;
257 by 405;
490 by 712; or
393 by 541.
In tikug mats of natural color straw the following colors may be used:
In natural-colored straw tikug mats, the following colors can be used:
No. 3, carabao and all border lines; No. 15, grasses.
No. 3, carabao and all boundaries; No. 15, grasses.
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, or 15.
No. 2, 3, 6, 9, or 15.
Fishtail Palm Design.
This is an “all over” design. The unit counts are as
follows:
from A to B is 33 straws;
from B to C is 11;
from C to D is 22;
from E to F is 35;
from E to G is 5.
This is a design that covers everything. The unit counts are as follows:
from A to B is 33 straws;
from B to C is 11;
from C to D is 22;
from E to F is 35;
from E to G is 5.
From the corner of the mat, A, on the long edge, count down to B. At B count in to C. Mark C O D E F and weave the design. From D count 44, and a point similar to C will be reached. Weave the same pattern again. From F count 55, and a point similar to E will be reached. Weave the same pattern again.
From the corner of the mat, A, on the long side, count down to B. At B, count in to C. Mark C O D E F and weave the design. From D, count 44, and you’ll reach a point similar to C. Weave the same pattern again. From F, count 55, and you’ll reach a point similar to E. Weave the same pattern again.
Measuring as at the first corner A, mark off spaces and weave all three other corner designs. Weave all intervening designs, first between corners on the sides of the mat, then on the interior.
Measuring from the first corner A, mark off spaces and create all three other corner designs. Create all the designs in between, first along the sides of the mat between the corners, then on the inside.
Mats woven for this design should be:
374 by 520;
506 by 700;
572 by 790;
638 by 880.
Mats designed for this should be:
374 by 520;
506 by 700;
572 by 790;
638 by 880.
In tikug mats of natural straw, the following colors may be used separately, not in combination:
In tikug mats made of natural straw, the following colors can be used individually, not together:
No. 2, 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, or 15.
No. 2, 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, or 15.
1 Based on original designs by Mrs. Alice Brezina.
1 Based on original designs by Mrs. Alice Brezina.
2 Three units will take up about 3 times 17, or 51 straws. In starting, a curved pattern 51 straws across will have to be made and slipped up or down in a sixteenth division of the mat in order that the margin space may be determined.
2 Three units will use about 3 times 17, which is 51 straws. To begin, a curved pattern of 51 straws across needs to be created and adjusted up or down by a sixteenth of the mat to establish the margin space.
3 This design, in all cases except where G S is 8 instead of 5, would look well with the outer border line broadened to the edge of the mat. This is a suggestion only; it means a great deal of work.
3 This design, except when G S is 8 instead of 5, would look better if the outer border line extends to the edge of the mat. This is just a suggestion; it involves a lot of work.
4 Weave large solid parts of designs first, when possible, and slight mistakes of one or two straws, which may happen, will then occur in open parts where they will show very little. Mistakes of this kind are only allowable in cases of flaws in the mat which is used.
4 Weave the large solid sections of your designs first, when you can, so that any small mistakes with one or two straws that might happen will end up in the open areas where they won't be very noticeable. These kinds of mistakes are only acceptable if there are flaws in the mat being used.
Bureau of Education Publications.
Annual Reports:
First Annual Report of the Superintendent of Public Instruction, 1901. (Edition exhausted.)
First Annual Report of the Superintendent of Public Instruction, 1901. (Edition sold out.)
Second Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Public Instruction, 1902. (Edition exhausted.)
Second Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Public Instruction, 1902. (Edition sold out.)
Third Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Education, 1903. (Edition exhausted.)
Third Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Education, 1903. (Edition sold out.)
Fourth Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Education, 1904. (Edition exhausted.)
Fourth Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Education, 1904. (Edition sold out.)
Fifth Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Education, 1905. (Not issued in printed form.)
Fifth Annual Report of the General Superintendent of Education, 1905. (Not released in printed form.)
Sixth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1906.
Sixth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1906.
Seventh Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1907.
Seventh Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1907.
Eighth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1908. (Supply limited.)
Eighth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1908. (Supply limited.)
Ninth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1909.
Ninth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1909.
Tenth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1910. (Supply limited.)
Tenth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1910. (Limited supply.)
Eleventh Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1911.
Eleventh Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1911.
Twelfth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1912.
Twelfth Annual Report of the Director of Education, 1912.
Bulletins:
1. The Philippine Normal School. Catalogue for 1903–4. English and Spanish. April, 1904. (Obsolete.)
1. The Philippine Normal School. Catalog for 1903–4. English and Spanish. April, 1904. (Outdated.)
2. A Course of Study in Vocal Music for Vacation Normal Institutes. May, 1904. (Edition exhausted.)
2. A Course of Study in Vocal Music for Vacation Normal Institutes. May, 1904. (Edition sold out.)
8. The Philippine School of Arts and Trades, Prospectus for 1904–5. English and Spanish. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
8. The Philippine School of Arts and Trades, Prospectus for 1904–5. English and Spanish. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
4. The Philippine Nautical School, Prospectus for 1904–5. English and Spanish. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
4. The Philippine Nautical School, Prospectus for 1904–5. English and Spanish. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
5. Notes on the Treatment of Smallpox. June, 1904.
5. Notes on the Treatment of Smallpox. June, 1904.
6. Reports of Industrial Exhibits of the Philippine Schools at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. June, 1904.
6. Reports on Industrial Exhibits from Philippine Schools at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. June, 1904.
7. Courses of Instruction for the Public Schools of the Philippine Islands. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
7. Courses of Instruction for the Public Schools of the Philippine Islands. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
8. Cursos de Enseñanza para las Escuelas Públicas de las Islas Filipinas. (Spanish edition of Bulletin No. 7.) June, 1904. (Edition exhausted.)
8. Teaching Courses for Public Schools in the Philippines. (Spanish edition of Bulletin No. 7.) June, 1904. (Edition sold out.)
9. A List of Philippine Baptismal Names. June, 1904. (Edition exhausted.)
9. A List of Philippine Baptismal Names. June, 1904. (Edition sold out.)
10. Government in the United States. (Prepared for use in the Philippine Public Schools.) June, 1904.
10. Government in the United States. (Prepared for use in the Philippine Public Schools.) June, 1904.
11. Courses in Mechanical Drawing, Woodworking, and Ironworking for Provincial Secondary Schools. June, 1904. (Obsolete.)
11. Courses in Mechanical Drawing, Woodworking, and Ironworking for Provincial Secondary Schools. June, 1904. (Outdated.)
12. Advanced and Post-Graduate Studies Offered by the Philippine Normal School for Preparation for Entrance to American Colleges and Universities or to the University of the Philippines. English and Spanish. August, 1904. (Obsolete.)
12. Advanced and Post-Graduate Studies Offered by the Philippine Normal School for Preparation for Entrance to American Colleges and Universities or to the University of the Philippines. English and Spanish. August, 1904. (Obsolete.)
13. Not issued in printed form.
13. Not published in print.
14. The School Law of the Philippine Islands, as Amended by Acts of the Philippine Commission to and including Act 1530, with Executive Orders and Attorney-General’s Opinions Affecting the Bureau of Education. January, 1906. (Obsolete.)
14. The School Law of the Philippine Islands, as Amended by Acts of the Philippine Commission to and including Act 1530, with Executive Orders and Attorney-General’s Opinions Affecting the Bureau of Education. January, 1906. (Obsolete.)
15–20. Not issued in printed form.
15–20. Not available in printed format.
21. Philippine Normal School. Catalogue for 1904–5. English and Spanish. May, 1905. (Obsolete.)
21. Philippine Normal School. Catalogue for 1904–5. English and Spanish. May, 1905. (Obsolete.)
22. Lessons on Familiar Philippine Animals. August, 1905. (Edition exhausted.)
22. Lessons on Common Philippine Animals. August, 1905. (Edition sold out.)
23. Standard Course of Study in Vocal Music for the Public Schools of the Philippine Islands. 1906. Revised and re-issued in 1910. (Editions exhausted.)
23. Standard Curriculum for Vocal Music in the Public Schools of the Philippine Islands. 1906. Revised and re-released in 1910. (Editions sold out.)
24. Outline of Year’s Course in Botany and Key to the Families of Vascular Plants in the Philippine Islands. August, 1906. Revised and re-issued in 1907. Third edition issued in 1908. Fourth edition issued in 1911.
24. Outline of the Year’s Course in Botany and Key to the Families of Vascular Plants in the Philippine Islands. August, 1906. Revised and reissued in 1907. Third edition released in 1908. Fourth edition released in 1911.
25. Official Roster of the Bureau of Education, corrected to March 1, 1906. May, 1906. (Obsolete.)
25. Official Roster of the Bureau of Education, updated to March 1, 1906. May, 1906. (Outdated.)
26. High School and Secondary Courses of Instruction. June, 1906. (Obsolete.)
26. High School and Secondary Courses of Instruction. June, 1906. (Outdated.)
27. Philippine Normal School. Catalogue for 1906–7 and Prospectus for 1907–8. May, 1907. (Obsolete.)
27. Philippine Normal School. Catalogue for 1906–7 and Prospectus for 1907–8. May, 1907. (Outdated.)
27 (A). Philippine Normal School, Courses of Study, Secondary Course. January, 1908. (Obsolete.)
27 (A). Philippine Normal School, Courses of Study, Secondary Course. January, 1908. (Obsolete.)
28. The Milkfish or Ban͠gos. May, 1908. (Supply limited.)
28. The Milkfish or Bangus. May, 1908. (Limited supply.)
29. Constructive Lessons in English, Designed for Use in Intermediate Grades. August, 1910. Revised and re-issued, 1911. Third Edition, 1912.
29. Constructive Lessons in English, Designed for Use in Intermediate Grades. August, 1910. Revised and re-issued, 1911. Third Edition, 1912.
80. Philippine Normal School, Catalogue for 1909–10 and Announcement for 1910–11. June, 1910. (Obsolete.)
80. Philippine Normal School, Catalogue for 1909–10 and Announcement for 1910–11. June, 1910. (Outdated.)
31. School and Home Gardening July 1910. (Now being revised)
31. School and Home Gardening July 1910. (Currently under revision)
32. Courses in Mechanical and Free-hand Drawing, for Use in Trade and Intermediate Schools. December, 1910.
32. Courses in Mechanical and Free-hand Drawing for Trade and Intermediate Schools. December 1910.
33. Philippine Hats. December, 1910. (Supply limited.)
33. Philippine Hats. December 1910. (Limited supply.)
34. Lace Making and Embroidery. December, 1910.
34. Lace Making and Embroidery. December, 1910.
35. Housekeeping and Household Arts—A Manual for Work with the Girls in the Elementary Schools of the Philippine Islands. February, 1911.
35. Housekeeping and Household Arts—A Manual for Work with the Girls in the Elementary Schools of the Philippine Islands. February, 1911.
(Concluded on third page of cover.)
(Concluded on the third page of the cover.)
Bureau of Education Publications—Continued.
(Continued from second page of cover.)
(Continued from the second page of the cover.)
Bulletins—Continued.
36. Catalogue and Announcement of the Philippine Normal School. May, 1911. (Edition exhausted.)
36. Catalog and Announcement of the Philippine Normal School. May, 1911. (Edition sold out.)
37. School Buildings, Part I. 1912.
37. School Buildings, Part I. 1912.
38. School Buildings, Part II. 1912.
38. School Buildings, Part II. 1912.
39. A Manual of Free-hand Drawing for Philippine Primary Schools. (In course of preparation.)
39. A Manual of Free-hand Drawing for Philippine Primary Schools. (Currently in preparation.)
40. Athletic Handbook for the Philippine Public Schools. (Now being revised.)
40. Athletic Handbook for the Philippine Public Schools. (Currently being updated.)
41. Service Manual of the Bureau of Education, 1911.
41. Service Manual of the Bureau of Education, 1911.
42. Intermediate English. II—Notes, Directions, and Aids to the Preparation of the Correspondence Study Course, 1911.
42. Intermediate English. II—Notes, Directions, and Aids for Preparing the Correspondence Study Course, 1911.
43. Catalogue of the Philippine School of Arts and Trades, 1912.
43. Catalog of the Philippine School of Arts and Trades, 1912.
44. Libraries for Philippine Public Schools.
44. Libraries for Philippine Public Schools.
45. The School of Household Industries, 1912.
45. The School of Household Industries, 1912.
46. Industrial Museum, Library, and Exhibits of the Bureau of Education.
46. Industrial Museum, Library, and Exhibits of the Bureau of Education.
47. Good Manners and Right Conduct, for Use in Primary Grades.
47. Good Manners and Proper Behavior, for Use in Elementary Grades.
48. A Course in Civics. (In course of preparation.)
48. A Course in Civics. (Currently being developed.)
49. Philippine Industrial Fibers. (In course of preparation.)
49. Philippine Industrial Fibers. (In progress.)
50. Arbor Day and School Holidays. (In course of preparation.)
50. Arbor Day and School Holidays. (In preparation.)
51. The Philippine School of Commerce. 1913.
51. The Philippine School of Commerce. 1913.
52. The Philippine School of Arts and Trades, Nautical Department. 1913.
52. The Philippine School of Arts and Trades, Nautical Department. 1913.
Civico-Educational Lectures:
1. The Rights and Duties of Citizens of the Philippines. 1910. (Supply limited.)
1. The Rights and Duties of Citizens of the Philippines. 1910. (Supply limited.)
2. The Prevention of Diseases. 1910. (Supply limited.)
2. The Prevention of Diseases. 1910. (Limited supply.)
3. Rice. 1910. (Supply limited.)
Rice. 1910. (Limited supply.)
4. Diseases of Animals. 1910. (Supply limited.)
4. Animal Diseases. 1910. (Limited supply.)
5. Coconut Beetles. 1910. (Supply limited.)
5. Coconut Beetles. 1910. (Limited supply.)
6. The Housing of the Public Schools. 1910. (Supply limited.)
6. The Housing of the Public Schools. 1910. (Supply limited.)
7. Coconuts. 1911.
7. Coconuts. 1911.
8. Corn. 1912.
Corn. 1912.
The Teachers’ Assembly Herald:
Volume I, 1908. (Edition exhausted.)
Volume I, 1908. (Out of print.)
Volume II, 1909. (Edition exhausted.)
Volume II, 1909. (Sold out.)
Volume III, 1910. (Edition exhausted.)
Volume III, 1910. (Sold out.)
Volume IV, 1911. (Supply limited.)
Volume IV, 1911. (Limited supply.)
Volume V, 1912. (Supply limited.)
Volume V, 1912. (Limited supply.)
Volume VI, 1913. (Now current.)
Volume VI, 1913. (Now updated.)
The Philippine Craftsman:
A monthly school industrial magazine. Now current.
A monthly school industrial magazine. Now available.
Text-Books:
Woodworking, A Manual of Elementary Carpentry for Philippine Public Schools, 1908.
Woodworking: A Guide to Basic Carpentry for Philippine Public Schools, 1908.
Selected Short Poems by Representative American Authors. 1911.
Selected Short Poems by Representative American Authors. 1911.
Commercial Geography: the Materials of Commerce for the Philippines. 1911.
Commercial Geography: The Materials of Commerce for the Philippines. 1911.
Macaulay’s Samuel Johnson; Emerson’s Self Reliance; Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address. 1911.
Macaulay’s Samuel Johnson; Emerson’s Self-Reliance; Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address. 1911.
An Introduction to the Study of Colonial History.
An Introduction to the Study of Colonial History.
Economic Conditions in the Philippines. (In course of preparation.)
Economic Conditions in the Philippines. (In the process of being prepared.)
Miscellaneous Problems for Trade Schools and Trades Classes in the Philippine Public Schools. (In course of preparation.)
Miscellaneous Problems for Trade Schools and Trade Classes in the Philippine Public Schools. (In progress.)
Housekeeping—A Textbook for Girls in the Public Schools of the Philippine Islands. (In course of preparation.)
Housekeeping—A Textbook for Girls in the Public Schools of the Philippine Islands. (In progress.)
A Primary Sewing Course. (In course of preparation.)
A Main Sewing Course. (In preparation.)
Miscellaneous:
Suggestions for the Third Annual Observance of Arbor Day in Philippine Schools, 1908.
Suggestions for the Third Annual Observance of Arbor Day in Philippine Schools, 1908.
Domestic Science, a Guide to Practical Instruction in Housekeeping, Sewing, Cooking and Laundering in Grades Three and Four of the Philippine Public Schools, 1908.
Domestic Science, a Guide to Practical Instruction in Housekeeping, Sewing, Cooking, and Laundering for Grades Three and Four of the Philippine Public Schools, 1908.
Abraham Lincoln—a Collection of Passages from His Speeches and Letters, with Brief Comments, 1909. (Supply exhausted.)
Abraham Lincoln—a Collection of Passages from His Talks and Letters, with Brief Comments, 1909. (Out of stock.)
Some Recipes for Preparing Jellies, Preserves, Pickles, and Candies from Philippine Fruits, 1911. (Supply exhausted.)
Some Recipes for Making Jellies, Preserves, Pickles, and Candies from Philippine Fruits, 1911. (Supply unavailable.)
Syllabus of Economic Conditions in the Philippines, 1911. (Supply exhausted.)
Syllabus of Economic Conditions in the Philippines, 1911. (Supply exhausted.)
Second Annual Report on Private Schools and Colleges of the Philippine Islands, 1911.
Second Annual Report on Private Schools and Colleges of the Philippine Islands, 1911.
Third Annual Report on Private Schools and Colleges of the Philippine Islands. 1912.
Third Annual Report on Private Schools and Colleges of the Philippine Islands. 1912.
A Statement of Organization, Aims and Conditions of Service in the Bureau of Education, Published for General Information. Several editions printed at Manila and Washington.
A Statement of Organization, Aims and Conditions of Service in the Bureau of Education, Published for General Information. Several editions printed in Manila and Washington.
Los Fines y la Organización de las Escuelas Públicas de Filipinas. (In course of preparation.) (Tagalog translation in course of preparation.)
The Goals and Organization of Public Schools in the Philippines. (In course of preparation.) (Tagalog translation in course of preparation.)
A Talk on Health Conditions in the Philippines. Dr. Victor G. Heiser, Director of Health
A Talk on Health Conditions in the Philippines. Dr. Victor G. Heiser, Director of Health
Craftsman Reprints:
I. Philippine Mats.
I. Philippine Mats.
Table of Contents
- Foreword.
- Philippine Mats.
- Bleaching Agents.
- Dyes Used on Mat Straws.
- Dyeing.
- Suggestions on the Use of Colors in Mats.
- Stripping Mat Straws.
- Kinds of Weaves.
- Mat Materials.
- Embroidered Mat Designs.
- Circular Mats.
- Circular Fish Design.
- Gecko Design.
- Geometric Design F.
- Geometric Design V.
- Geometric Design X.
- Geometric Design Z.
- Large Banca Design.
- Chick Design.
- Orchid Design.
- Woman Carrying Clothes Design.
- Lavandera Design.
- Man with Bow and Arrow Design.
- Casa Design.
- Chicken Vender Design.
- Carabao, Cart, and Driver Design.
- Rooster Design.
- Carabao Head Design.
- Fishtail Palm Design.
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