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HOUSE RATS AND MICE
DAVID E. LANTZ
Assistant Biologist
FARMERS’ BULLETIN 896
UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
Contribution from the Bureau of Biological Survey
E. W. NELSON, Chief
Washington, D. C. October, 1917
Washington, D.C. October 1917
Show this bulletin to a neighbor. Additional copies may be obtained free from the Division of Publications, United States Department of Agriculture
Show this bulletin to a neighbor. You can get more copies for free from the Division of Publications, United States Department of Agriculture.
WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1917
WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1917
The rat is the worst animal pest in the world.
The rat is the most troublesome animal pest in the world.
From its home among filth it visits dwellings and storerooms to pollute and destroy human food.
From its home in the dirt, it invades homes and storerooms to contaminate and ruin human food.
It carries bubonic plague and many other diseases fatal to man and has been responsible for more untimely deaths among human beings than all the wars of history.
It carries bubonic plague and many other diseases that are deadly to humans and has caused more premature deaths among people than all the wars in history.
In the United States rats and mice each year destroy crops and other property valued at over $200,000,000.
In the United States, rats and mice destroy crops and other property valued at over $200 million each year.
This destruction is equivalent to the gross earnings of an army of over 200,000 men.
This devastation is equal to the total income of an army of more than 200,000 soldiers.
On many a farm, if the grain eaten and wasted by rats and mice could be sold, the proceeds would more than pay all the farmer's taxes.
On many farms, if the grain consumed and wasted by rats and mice could be sold, the earnings would more than cover all the farmer's taxes.
The common brown rat breeds 6 to 10 times a year and produces an average of 10 young at a litter. Young females breed when only three or four months old.
The common brown rat breeds 6 to 10 times a year and has an average litter size of 10 young. Female rats can start breeding when they are only three or four months old.
At this rate a pair of rats, breeding uninterruptedly and without deaths, would at the end of three years (18 generations) be increased to 359,709,482 individuals.
At this rate, a pair of rats, breeding continuously and without any deaths, would reach a population of 359,709,482 individuals at the end of three years (18 generations).
For centuries the world has been fighting rats without organization and at the same time has been feeding them and building for them fortresses for concealment. If we are to fight them on equal terms we must deny them food and hiding places. We must organize and unite to rid communities of these pests. The time to begin is now.
For centuries, the world has been battling rats without any real plan while simultaneously providing them with food and creating shelters for them to hide. If we want to fight them effectively, we need to stop giving them food and hiding spots. We must come together and work as a team to eliminate these pests from our communities. The time to start is now.
HOUSE RATS AND MICE.
CONTENTS.
- Page.
- Destructive habits 3
- Protection of food and other stores 5
- Destroying rats and mice 11
- Organized efforts to destroy rats 20
- Important repressive measures 23
DESTRUCTIVE HABITS OF HOUSE RATS AND MICE.
Losses from depredations of house rats amount to many millions of dollars yearly—to more, in fact, than those from all other injurious mammals combined. The common house mouse[1] and the brown rat[2] (fig. 1), too familiar to need description, are pests in nearly all parts of the country; while two other kinds of house rats, known as the black rat[3] and the roof rat,[4] are found within our borders.
Losses caused by house rats add up to millions of dollars each year—actually, more than all other harmful mammals combined. The common house mouse[1] and the brown rat[2] (fig. 1), which are so well-known they don’t need a description, are nuisances in almost every part of the country; while two other types of house rats, called the black rat[3] and the roof rat,[4] can also be found within our borders.
Of these four introduced species—for none is native to America—the brown rat is the most destructive, and, except the mouse, the most numerous and most widely distributed. Brought to America just[Pg 4] before the Revolution, it has supplanted and nearly exterminated its less robust relative the black rat; and in spite of the constant warfare of man has extended its range and steadily increased in numbers. Its dominance is due to its great fecundity and its ability to adapt itself to all sorts of surroundings. It breeds (in the middle part of the United States) six or more times a year and produces from 6 to 20 young (average 10) in a litter. Females breed when only 3 or 4 months old. Thus a pair, breeding uninterruptedly and without deaths, could in three years (18 generations) produce a posterity of 359,709,480 individuals. Mice and the black and roof rats produce smaller litters, but the period of gestation, about 21 days, and the number of litters are the same for all.
Of these four introduced species—none of which are native to America—the brown rat is the most destructive and, except for the mouse, the most numerous and widely spread. It was brought to America just[Pg 4] before the Revolution and has replaced and nearly wiped out its less sturdy relative, the black rat. Despite constant efforts by humans to control it, the brown rat has expanded its territory and continued to grow in numbers. Its success is due to its high reproductive rate and its ability to adapt to various environments. In the central United States, it breeds six or more times a year and has 6 to 20 young (averaging 10) in each litter. Females can breed when they are only 3 or 4 months old. Therefore, if a pair breeds continuously and without any deaths, they could produce a total of 359,709,480 descendants in just three years (18 generations). Mice and black and roof rats have smaller litters, but the gestation period, which is about 21 days, and the number of litters are the same for all.
Rats and mice are practically omnivorous, feeding upon all kinds of animal and vegetable matter. The brown rat makes its home in the open field, the hedge row, and the river bank, as well as in stone walls, piers, and all kinds of buildings. It destroys grains when newly planted, while growing, and in the shock, stack, mow, crib, granary, mill, elevator, or ship's hold, and also in the bin and feed trough. It invades store and warehouse and destroys furs, laces, silks, carpets, leather goods, and groceries. It attacks fruits, vegetables, and meats in the markets, and destroys by pollution ten times as much as it actually eats. It destroys eggs and young poultry, and eats the eggs and young of song and game birds. It carries disease germs from house to house and bubonic plague from city to city. It causes disastrous conflagrations; floods houses by gnawing lead water pipes; ruins artificial ponds and embankments by burrowing; and damages foundations, floors, doors, and furnishings of dwellings.
Rats and mice are almost completely omnivorous, eating all kinds of animal and plant matter. The brown rat makes its home in open fields, hedgerows, and riverbanks, as well as in stone walls, piers, and various types of buildings. It ruins grains when they're newly planted, while they’re growing, and in shocks, stacks, mows, cribs, granaries, mills, elevators, or in a ship’s hold, and also in bins and feed troughs. It invades stores and warehouses, ruining furs, laces, silks, carpets, leather goods, and groceries. It attacks fruits, vegetables, and meats in markets, and pollutes ten times more than it actually consumes. It destroys eggs and young poultry, and eats the eggs and young of songbirds and game birds. It spreads disease germs from one house to another and carries bubonic plague from city to city. It causes disastrous fires, floods homes by gnawing on lead water pipes, ruins artificial ponds and embankments by burrowing, and damages foundations, floors, doors, and furnishings of homes.
Unlike the brown rat the black rat rarely migrates to the fields. It has disappeared from most parts of the Northern States, but is occasionally found in remote villages or farms. At our seaports it frequently arrives on ships from abroad, but seldom becomes very numerous. The roof rat is common in many parts of the South, where it is a persistent pest in cane and rice fields. It maintains itself against the brown rat partly because of its habit of living in trees. The common house mouse by no means confines its activities to the inside of buildings, but is often found in open fields, where its depredations in shock and stack are well known.
Unlike the brown rat, the black rat rarely moves to the fields. It has mostly disappeared from the Northern States but can sometimes be found in remote villages or farms. At our seaports, it often arrives on ships from other countries but rarely becomes very numerous. The roof rat is common in many parts of the South, where it is a persistent nuisance in sugarcane and rice fields. It competes against the brown rat partly due to its habit of living in trees. The common house mouse doesn't limit its activities to the inside of buildings; it's often found in open fields, where its damage to crops and storage is well known.
Not only are mice and rats, especially the brown rat, a cause of destruction and damage to property, but they are also a constant menace to the health of man. It has been proved that they are the chief means of perpetuating and transmitting bubonic plague and that they play important rôles in conveying other diseases to human beings. They are parasites, without redeeming characteristics, and should everywhere be routed and destroyed.
Not only do mice and rats, especially the brown rat, cause destruction and damage to property, but they also pose a constant threat to human health. It has been proven that they are the primary carriers of bubonic plague and that they play significant roles in spreading other diseases to people. They are pests with no redeeming qualities and should be eliminated wherever they are found.
PROTECTION OF FOOD AND OTHER STORES FROM RATS AND MICE.
Past attempts to exterminate rats and mice have failed, not so much because of lack of effective means as because of the neglect of necessary precautions and the absence of concerted endeavors. We have rendered our work abortive by continuing to provide subsistence and hiding places for the animals. If these advantages are denied, persistent and general use of the usual methods of destruction will prove far more successful.
Past attempts to get rid of rats and mice have failed, not so much due to a lack of effective methods but because of neglecting necessary precautions and not working together. We've made our efforts useless by continuing to provide food and hiding spots for these animals. If we take away these advantages, consistently and widely using the usual methods of extermination will be much more successful.
RAT-PROOF BUILDING.
First in importance, as a measure of rat repression, is the exclusion of the animals from places where they find food and safe retreats for rearing their young.
First in importance, as a way to control rats, is keeping them out of areas where they can find food and safe spots to raise their young.
The best way to keep rats from buildings, whether in city or in country, is to use cement in construction. As the advantages of this material are coming to be generally understood, its use is rapidly extending to all kinds of buildings. The processes of mixing and laying this material require little skill or special knowledge, and workmen of ordinary intelligence can successfully follow the plain directions contained in handbooks of cement construction.[5]
The best way to keep rats out of buildings, whether in the city or the countryside, is to use cement in construction. As people are starting to understand the benefits of this material, its use is quickly spreading to all types of buildings. The processes for mixing and applying this material require minimal skill or special knowledge, and workers with average intelligence can easily follow the straightforward instructions in cement construction handbooks.[5]
Many modern public buildings are so constructed that rats can find no lodgment in the walls or foundations, and yet in a few years, through negligence, such buildings often become infested with the pests. Sometimes drain pipes are left uncovered for hours at a time. Often outer doors, especially those opening on alleys, are left ajar. A common mistake is failure to screen basement windows which must be opened for ventilation. However the intruders are admitted, when once inside they intrench themselves behind furniture or stores, and are difficult to dislodge. The addition of inner doors to vestibules is an important precaution against rats. The lower edge of outer doors to public buildings, especially markets, should be reinforced with light metal plates to prevent the animals from gnawing through. Any opening left around water, steam, or gas pipes, where they go through walls, should be closed carefully with concrete to the full depth of the wall.
Many modern public buildings are designed so that rats can't find spots to nest in the walls or foundations, but often, due to carelessness, these buildings become infested with pests within a few years. Sometimes, drain pipes are left exposed for hours. Outer doors, especially those leading to alleys, are frequently left slightly open. A common mistake is not screening basement windows that need to be opened for ventilation. Once the intruders get inside, they hide behind furniture or supplies, making them hard to get rid of. Adding inner doors to entryways is an important step in preventing rat infestations. The bottom edge of outer doors to public buildings, particularly markets, should be strengthened with light metal plates to stop the animals from gnawing through. Any gaps around water, steam, or gas pipes where they pass through walls should be sealed tightly with concrete all the way to the full depth of the wall.
Dwellings.—In constructing dwelling houses the additional cost of making the foundations rat-proof is slight compared with the advantages. The cellar walls should have concrete footings, and the walls themselves should be laid in cement mortar. The cellar floor should be of medium rather than lean concrete. Even old cellars may be made rat-proof at comparatively small expense. Rat holes may be permanently closed with a mixture of cement, sand, and broken glass, or sharp bits of crockery or stone.
Dwellings.—When building homes, the extra cost of making the foundations rat-proof is minimal compared to the benefits. The cellar walls should have concrete footings, and the walls themselves should be built with cement mortar. The cellar floor should be made of medium rather than lean concrete. Even old cellars can be made rat-proof for a relatively low cost. Rat holes can be permanently sealed using a mix of cement, sand, and broken glass, or sharp pieces of pottery or stone.
[Pg 6] On a foundation like the one described above, the walls of a wooden dwelling also may be made rat-proof. The space between the sheathing and lath, to the height of about a foot, should be filled with concrete. Rats can not then gain access to the walls, and can enter the dwelling only through doors or windows. Screening all basement and cellar windows with wire netting is a most necessary precaution.
[Pg 6] With a foundation like the one described above, the walls of a wooden house can also be made resistant to rats. The area between the sheathing and lath, up to about a foot high, should be filled with concrete. This way, rats cannot access the walls and can only enter the house through doors or windows. It's essential to screen all basement and cellar windows with wire mesh as a precaution.
Old buildings in cities.—Aside from old dwellings, the chief refuges for rats in cities are sewers, wharves, stables, and outbuildings. Modern sewers are used by the animals merely as highways and not as abodes, but old-fashioned brick sewers often afford nesting crannies.
Old buildings in cities.—Besides old homes, the main hiding spots for rats in cities are sewers, docks, stables, and sheds. Modern sewers are used by these animals mainly as thoroughfares and not as homes, but old brick sewers often provide nesting spots.

Wharves, stables, and outbuildings in cities should be so built as to exclude rats. Cement is the chief means to this end. Old tumble-down buildings and wharves should not be tolerated in any city. (See fig. 2.)
Wharves, stables, and outbuildings in cities should be designed to keep rats out. Cement is the primary way to achieve this. Old, dilapidated buildings and wharves should not be allowed in any city. (See fig. 2.)
In both city and country, wooden floors of sidewalks, areas, and porches are commonly laid upon timbers resting on the ground. Under such floors rats have a safe retreat from nearly all enemies. The conditions can be remedied in towns by municipal action requiring that these floors be replaced by others made of cement. Areas or walks made of brick are often undermined by rats and may become as objectionable as those of wood. Wooden floors of porches should always be well above the ground.
In both urban and rural areas, wooden sidewalk, patio, and porch floors are typically built on timbers that sit on the ground. Under these floors, rats have a safe hiding spot from almost all threats. In towns, this issue can be addressed through local government action that mandates replacing these wooden floors with cement ones. Brick areas or walkways are also often burrowed under by rats, making them just as problematic as wooden ones. Wooden porch floors should always be elevated well above the ground.
[Pg 7] Farm buildings.—Granaries, corncribs, and poultry houses may be made rat-proof by a liberal use of cement in the foundations and floors; or the floors may be of wood resting upon concrete. Objection has been urged against concrete floors for horses, cattle, and poultry, because the material is too good a conductor of heat, and the health of the animals suffers from contact with these floors. In poultry houses, dry soil or sand may be used as a covering for the cement floor, and in stables a wooden floor resting on concrete is just as satisfactory so far as the exclusion of rats is concerned.
[Pg 7] Farm buildings.—Granaries, corncribs, and chicken coops can be made rat-proof by using plenty of cement in the foundations and floors; alternatively, the floors can be wooden ones placed on concrete. Some have raised concerns about concrete floors for horses, cattle, and poultry, as the material conducts heat too well, which can negatively affect the health of the animals. In chicken coops, dry soil or sand can be put on top of the cement floor, and in stables, a wooden floor on concrete works just as well for keeping out rats.
The common practice of setting corncribs on posts with inverted pans at the top often fails to exclude rats, because the posts are not high enough to place the lower cracks of the structure beyond reach of the animals. As rats are excellent jumpers, the posts should be tall enough to prevent the animals from obtaining a foothold at any place within 3 feet of the ground. A crib built in this way, however, is not very satisfactory.
The usual method of raising corncribs on posts with upside-down pans on top often doesn't keep rats out because the posts aren't tall enough to make the lower gaps of the structure unreachable for the animals. Since rats are great jumpers, the posts should be tall enough to stop the animals from getting a foothold anywhere within 3 feet of the ground. However, a crib built this way isn't very effective.
For a rat-proof crib a well-drained site should be chosen. The outer walls, laid in cement, should be sunk about 20 inches into the ground. The space within the walls should be grouted thoroughly with cement and broken stone and finished with rich concrete for a floor. Upon this the structure may be built. Even the walls of the crib may be of concrete. Corn will not mold in contact with them, provided there is good ventilation and the roof is water-tight.
To create a rat-proof storage building, select a site that drains well. The outer walls, made of cement, should be buried about 20 inches underground. Fill the area inside the walls completely with cement and broken stone, and finish it with solid concrete for the floor. You can then build the structure on this base. The walls of the building can also be made from concrete. Corn won’t spoil when in contact with them, as long as there's proper ventilation and the roof is waterproof.
However, there are cheaper ways of excluding rats from either new or old corncribs. Rats, mice, and sparrows may be kept out effectually by the use of either an inner or an outer covering of galvanized-wire netting of half-inch mesh and heavy enough to resist the teeth of the rats. The netting in common use in screening cellar windows is suitable for covering or lining cribs. As rats can climb the netting, the entire structure must be screened, or, if sparrows are not to be excluded, the wire netting may be carried up about 3 feet from the ground, and above this a belt of sheet metal about a foot in width may be tacked to the outside of the building.
However, there are cheaper methods to keep rats out of both new and old corncribs. Rats, mice, and sparrows can be effectively excluded by using either an inner or outer layer of galvanized-wire mesh with half-inch openings that’s strong enough to withstand rat bites. The mesh commonly used for screening cellar windows works well for covering or lining cribs. Since rats are able to climb the mesh, the whole structure needs to be covered; or, if sparrows don’t need to be kept out, the wire mesh can be extended about 3 feet up from the ground, and above that, a 1-foot wide strip of sheet metal can be attached to the outside of the building.
Complete working drawings for the practical rat-proof corncrib shown in figures 3 and 4 may be obtained from the Office of Public Roads and Rural Engineering of the department.
Complete working drawings for the practical rat-proof corncrib shown in figures 3 and 4 can be obtained from the Office of Public Roads and Rural Engineering of the department.
Buildings for storing foodstuffs.—Whenever possible, stores of food for man or beast should be placed only in buildings of rat-proof construction, guarded against rodents by having all windows near the ground and all other possible means of entrance screened with netting made of No. 18 or No. 20 wire and of ¼-inch mesh. Entrance doors should fit closely, should have the lower edges protected by wide strips of metal, and should have springs attached, to insure that they shall not be left open. Before being used for housing stores, the building should be inspected as to the manner in which water, [Pg 8] steam, or gas pipes go through the walls, and any openings found around such pipes should be closed with concrete.
Buildings for storing food.—Whenever possible, food storage for people or animals should be kept in buildings that are rat-proof. All windows near the ground and any other potential entry points should be covered with netting made of No. 18 or No. 20 wire with a ¼-inch mesh to keep out rodents. Entrance doors should fit tightly, have their lower edges protected by wide metal strips, and be equipped with springs to ensure they don't get left open. Before using a building for storage, it should be checked for how water, steam, or gas pipes pass through the walls, and any gaps around these pipes should be sealed with concrete.

If rat-proof buildings are not available, it is possible, by the use of concrete in basements and the other precautions just mentioned, to make an ordinary building practically safe for food storage.
If rat-proof buildings aren't available, it's possible to make a regular building nearly safe for food storage by using concrete in basements and taking the other precautions mentioned earlier.
When it is necessary to erect temporary wooden structures to hold forage, grain, or food supplies for army camps, the floors of such buildings should not be in contact with the ground, but elevated, the sills having a foot or more of clear space below them. Smooth posts rising 2 or 3 feet above the ground may be used for foundations, and the floor itself may be protected below by wire netting or sheet metal at all places where rats could gain a foothold. Care should be taken to have the floors as tight as possible, for it is chiefly scattered grain and fragments of food about a camp that attract rats.
When it's necessary to build temporary wooden structures to store forage, grain, or food supplies for army camps, the floors of these buildings shouldn't touch the ground but should be elevated, with the sills having at least a foot of clear space underneath. Smooth posts rising 2 or 3 feet above the ground can be used as foundations, and the floor itself should be protected underneath with wire netting or sheet metal wherever rats could potentially enter. It's important to ensure that the floors are as tight as possible, as it's primarily the scattered grain and food scraps around a camp that attract rats.
Rat-proofing by elevation.—The United States Public Health Service reports that in its campaigns against bubonic plague in San Francisco (1907) and New Orleans (1914) many plague rats were found under the floors of wooden houses resting on the ground. These buildings were made rat-proof by elevation, and no case of either human or rodent plague occurred in any house after the change. Placing them on smooth posts 18 inches above the ground, with the space beneath the floor entirely open, left no hiding place for rats.
Rat-proofing by elevation.—The United States Public Health Service reports that during its campaigns against bubonic plague in San Francisco (1907) and New Orleans (1914), many plague rats were discovered under the floors of wooden houses sitting directly on the ground. These buildings were made rat-proof by elevating them, and after this change, there were no cases of either human or rodent plague in any of the houses. Elevating them onto smooth posts 18 inches above the ground, with the area beneath the floor completely open, eliminated any hiding spots for the rats.
This plan is adapted to small dwellings throughout the South, and to small summer homes, temporary structures, and small farm buildings everywhere. Wherever rats might obtain a foothold on the top of the post they may be prevented from gnawing the adjacent wood by tacking metal plates or pieces of wire netting to floor or sill.
This plan is designed for small homes across the South, as well as for small summer houses, temporary structures, and small farm buildings anywhere. To stop rats from getting a grip on the top of the post and chewing on the nearby wood, you can attach metal plates or pieces of wire mesh to the floor or sill.
KEEPING FOOD FROM RATS AND MICE.
The effect of an abundance of food on the breeding of rodents should be kept in mind. Well-fed rats mature quickly, breed often, and have large litters. Poorly fed rats, on the contrary, reproduce less frequently and have smaller litters. In addition, scarcity of food makes measures for destroying the animals far more effective.
The impact of having plenty of food on rodent breeding shouldn't be overlooked. Well-fed rats mature quickly, breed frequently, and have large litters. On the other hand, poorly fed rats reproduce less often and have smaller litters. Additionally, a lack of food makes efforts to eliminate the animals much more effective.
Merchandise in stores.—In all parts of the country there is a serious economic drain in the destruction by rats and mice of merchandise held for sale by dealers. Not only foodstuffs and forage, but textiles, clothing, and leather goods are often ruined. This loss is due mainly to the faulty buildings in which the stores are kept. Often it would be a measure of economy to tear down the old structures and replace them by new ones. However, even the old buildings may often be repaired so as to make them practically rat-proof; and foodstuffs, as flour, seeds, and meats, may always be protected in wire cages at slight expense. The public should be protected from insanitary stores by a system of rigid inspection.
Merchandise in stores.—Across the country, there is a significant economic loss due to rats and mice destroying products sold by retailers. It’s not just food and animal feed; textiles, clothing, and leather items often get damaged as well. This issue mainly arises from the poor condition of the buildings where these stores are located. Sometimes, it makes more sense to demolish the old buildings and replace them with new ones. However, older structures can often be fixed up to be nearly rat-proof; plus, food items like flour, seeds, and meat can easily be secured in wire cages at a low cost. The public deserves protection from unsanitary stores through a strict inspection system.
Household supplies.—Similar care should be exercised in the home to protect household supplies from mice and rats. Little progress in ridding the premises of these animals can be made so long as they have access to supplies of food. Cellars, kitchens, and pantries often furnish subsistence not only to rats that inhabit the dwelling, but to many that come from outside. Food supplies may always be kept from rats and mice if placed in inexpensive rat-proof containers covered with wire netting. Sometimes all that is needed to prevent [Pg 10] serious waste is the application of concrete to holes in the basement wall or the slight repair of a defective part of the building.
Household supplies.—You should take similar care at home to keep household supplies safe from mice and rats. You won't make much progress in getting rid of these pests as long as they can access food. Cellars, kitchens, and pantries often provide food not just for the rats that live in the house, but also for many that come from outside. You can always keep food supplies away from rats and mice by using cheap, rat-proof containers with wire mesh covers. Sometimes, all that's needed to prevent serious waste is to fill holes in the basement wall with concrete or to fix a small issue in the building.
Produce in transit.—Much loss of fruits, vegetables, and other produce occurs in transit by rail and on ships. Most of the damage is done at wharves and in railway stations, but there is also considerable in ships' holds, especially to perishable produce brought from warm latitudes. Much of this may be prevented by the use of rat-proof cages at the docks, by the careful fumigation of seagoing vessels at the end of each voyage, and by the frequent fumigation of vessels in coastwise trade; but still more by replacing old and decrepit wharves and station platforms with modern ones built of concrete.
Produce in transit.—A lot of fruits, vegetables, and other produce get damaged while being transported by train and ship. Most of the loss happens at docks and train stations, but there's also significant damage in ship holds, especially to perishable goods coming from warmer regions. Much of this damage can be avoided by using rat-proof containers at the docks, properly fumigating seagoing vessels after each trip, and regularly fumigating boats in coastal trade; but even more can be done by replacing old and worn-out docks and station platforms with modern concrete ones.
Where cargoes are being loaded or unloaded at wharves or depots, food liable to attack by rats may be temporarily safeguarded by being placed in rat-proof cages, or pounds, constructed of wire netting. Wooden boxes containing reserve food held in depots for a considerable time or intended for shipment by sea may be made rat-proof by light coverings of metal along the angles. This plan has long been in use to protect naval stores on ships and in warehouses. It is based on the fact that rats do not gnaw the plane surfaces of hard materials, but attack doors, furniture, and boxes at the angles only.
Where cargo is being loaded or unloaded at docks or warehouses, food that might be vulnerable to rat attacks can be temporarily protected by placing it in rat-proof cages or enclosures made of wire mesh. Wooden boxes containing backup food stored in warehouses for a long time or meant for shipping by sea can be made rat-proof by adding light metal coverings along the corners. This method has been used for a long time to safeguard naval supplies on ships and in storage facilities. It relies on the fact that rats don’t chew on flat surfaces of hard materials, but they do target doors, furniture, and boxes at the corners.
Packing houses.—Packing houses and abattoirs are often sources from which rats secure subsistence, especially where meats are prepared for market in old buildings. In old-style cooling rooms with double walls of wood and sawdust insulation, always a source of annoyance because of rat infestation, the utmost vigilance is required to prevent serious loss of meat products. On the other hand, packing houses with modern construction and sanitary devices have no trouble from rats or mice.
Packing houses.—Packing houses and slaughterhouses are often places where rats find food, especially in old buildings where meat is prepared for sale. In traditional cooling rooms with double wooden walls and insulation made of sawdust, which are a constant source of frustration due to rat infestations, it's crucial to stay alert to prevent significant losses of meat products. Conversely, packing houses built with modern materials and sanitary equipment don't have issues with rats or mice.
Garbage and waste.—Since much of the food of rats consists of garbage and other waste materials, it is not enough to bar the animals from markets, granaries, warehouses, and private food stores. Garbage and offal of all kinds must be so disposed of that rats can not obtain them.
Garbage and waste.—Since a lot of the food rats eat comes from garbage and other waste, it’s not sufficient to keep them out of markets, granaries, warehouses, and private food stores. Garbage and all kinds of discarded materials must be handled in a way that prevents rats from accessing them.
In cities and towns an efficient system of garbage collection and disposal should be established by ordinances. Waste from markets, hotels, cafés and households should be collected in covered metal receptacles and frequently emptied. Garbage should never be dumped in or near towns, but should be utilized or promptly destroyed by fire.
In cities and towns, there should be a well-organized system for garbage collection and disposal established by local laws. Waste from markets, hotels, cafés, and homes should be collected in covered metal bins and emptied regularly. Garbage should never be thrown away in or near towns; it should be processed or quickly burned.
Rats find abundant food in country slaughterhouses; reform in the management of these is badly needed. Such places are centers of rat propagation. It is a common practice to leave offal of slaughtered animals to be eaten by rats and swine, and this is the chief means of perpetuating trichinæ in pork. The law should require that offal be promptly cremated or otherwise disposed of. Country slaughter[Pg 11]houses should be as cleanly and as constantly inspected as abattoirs.
Rats find plenty of food in rural slaughterhouses; there's a strong need for reform in their management. These locations are hotspots for rat breeding. It's common practice to leave the remains of slaughtered animals for rats and pigs to eat, which is the main way trichinæ are spread in pork. The law should mandate that these remains be quickly cremated or disposed of in another way. Rural slaughter[Pg 11]houses should be kept as clean and inspected as frequently as abattoirs.
Another important source of rat food is found in remnants of lunches left by employees in factories, stores, and public buildings. This food, which alone is sufficient to attract and sustain a small army of rats, is commonly left in waste baskets or other open receptacles. Strictly enforced rules requiring all remnants of food to be deposited in covered metal vessels would make trapping far more effective.
Another important source of rat food comes from leftovers left behind by workers in factories, stores, and public buildings. This food, which is more than enough to attract and support a small army of rats, is usually found in trash cans or other open containers. Strict rules that require all food scraps to be put in covered metal bins would make trapping much more effective.
Military training camps, unless subjected to rigid discipline in the matter of disposal of garbage and waste, soon become centers of rat infestation. Waste from camps, deposited in covered metal cans and collected daily, should be removed far from the camp itself and either burned or utilized in approved modern ways.
Military training camps, unless enforced with strict discipline regarding garbage and waste disposal, quickly turn into hotspots for rat infestations. Waste from camps, stored in covered metal cans and collected daily, should be taken away from the camp and either incinerated or managed in approved modern methods.
DESTROYING RATS AND MICE.
The Biological Survey has made numerous laboratory and field experiments with various agencies for destroying rats and mice. The results form the chief basis for the following recommendations:
The Biological Survey has conducted many lab and field experiments with different organizations to eliminate rats and mice. The findings are the main foundation for the following recommendations:
TRAPS.
Owing to their cunning, it is not always easy to clear rats from premises by trapping; if food is abundant, it is impossible. A few adults refuse to enter the most innocent-looking trap. And yet trapping, if persistently followed, is one of the most effective ways of destroying the animals.
Because of their cleverness, it's not always easy to get rid of rats from a property using traps; if there's plenty of food, it's impossible. Some adults won't even go near the simplest-looking trap. Still, trapping, if done consistently, is one of the most effective methods for eliminating these animals.
Guillotine trap.—For general use the improved modern traps with a wire fall released by a baited trigger and driven by a coiled spring have marked advantages over the old forms, and many of them may be used at the same time. These traps, sometimes called "guillotine" traps, are of many designs, but the more simply constructed are preferable. Probably those made entirely of metal are the best, as they [Pg 12] are more durable. Traps with tin or sheet-metal bases are not recommended.
Guillotine trap.—For general use, the improved modern traps with a wire fall triggered by bait and powered by a coiled spring have clear advantages over the older types, and many of them can be used simultaneously. These traps, often referred to as "guillotine" traps, come in various designs, but the simpler models are preferable. Generally, those made entirely of metal are the best, as they are more durable. Traps with tin or sheet-metal bases are not recommended.
Guillotine traps of the type shown in figure 5 should be baited with small pieces of Vienna sausage (Wienerwurst) or fried bacon. A small section of an ear of corn is an excellent bait if other grain is not present. The trigger wire should be bent inward to bring the bait into proper position for the fall to strike the rat in the neck, as shown in figure 6.
Guillotine traps like the one shown in figure 5 should be baited with small pieces of Vienna sausage or fried bacon. A small piece of corn on the cob works well as bait if other grain isn't available. The trigger wire should be bent inward to position the bait correctly so the falling mechanism hits the rat in the neck, as demonstrated in figure 6.
Other excellent baits for rats and mice are oatmeal, toasted cheese, toasted bread (buttered), fish, fish offal, fresh liver, raw meat, pine nuts, apples, carrots, and corn, and sunflower, squash, or pumpkin seeds. Broken fresh eggs are good bait at all seasons, and ripe tomatoes, green cucumbers, and other fresh vegetables are very tempting to the animals in winter. When seed, grain, or meal is used with a guillotine trap, it is put on the trigger plate, or the trigger wire may be bent outward and the bait placed directly under it.
Other great baits for rats and mice include oatmeal, toasted cheese, buttered toasted bread, fish, fish scraps, fresh liver, raw meat, pine nuts, apples, carrots, corn, and sunflower, squash, or pumpkin seeds. Cracked fresh eggs work well as bait all year round, and ripe tomatoes, green cucumbers, and other fresh vegetables are very appealing to animals in winter. When using seed, grain, or flour with a guillotine trap, it should be placed on the trigger plate, or the trigger wire can be bent outward with the bait placed directly underneath it.
Oatmeal (rolled oats) is recommended as a bait for guillotine traps made with wooden base and trigger plate (fig. 7). These traps are especially convenient to use on ledges or other narrow rat runs or at the openings of rat burrows. They are often used without bait.
Oatmeal (rolled oats) is suggested as bait for guillotine traps made with a wooden base and trigger plate (fig. 7). These traps are particularly easy to use on ledges or other narrow rat pathways or at the entrances of rat burrows. They are often used without any bait.
A common mistake in trapping for rats and mice is to use only one or two traps when dozens are needed. For a large establishment hundreds of traps may be used to advantage, and a dozen is none too many for an ordinary barn or dwelling infested with rats. House mice are less suspicious than rats and are much more easily trapped. [Pg 13] Small guillotine traps baited with oatmeal will soon rid an ordinary dwelling of the smaller pests.
A common mistake when trapping for rats and mice is using just one or two traps when you actually need dozens. For a large property, you might need hundreds of traps, and a dozen is definitely not too many for a typical barn or home that's overrun with rats. House mice are less cautious than rats and can be trapped much more easily. [Pg 13] Small guillotine traps baited with oatmeal will quickly eliminate the smaller pests in a regular home.

Cage trap.—When rats are abundant, the large French wire cage traps may be used to advantage. They should be made of stiff wire, well reinforced. Many of those sold in stores are useless, because a full-grown rat can bend the light wires apart and so escape.
Cage trap.—When there are a lot of rats, large French wire cage traps can be very effective. They should be made of sturdy wire and reinforced well. Many of the ones sold in stores are ineffective because a full-grown rat can bend the lightweight wires apart and escape.
Cage traps may be baited and left open for several nights until the rats are accustomed to enter them to obtain food. They should then be closed and freshly baited, when a larger catch may be expected, especially of young rats (fig. 8). As many as 25, and even more, partly grown rats have been taken at a time in one of these traps. It is better to cover the trap than to leave it exposed. A short board should be laid on the trap and an old cloth or bag or a bunch of hay or straw thrown carelessly over the top. Often the trap may be placed with the entrance opposite a rat hole and fitting it so closely that rats can not pass through without entering the trap. If a single rat is caught it may be left in the trap as a decoy to others.
Cage traps can be baited and left open for several nights until the rats become used to entering them for food. After that, they should be closed and re-baited, which will likely result in a larger catch, especially of young rats (fig. 8). As many as 25 or even more partially grown rats have been caught at once in one of these traps. It’s better to cover the trap than to leave it open. A short board should be placed on the trap, and an old cloth, bag, or a handful of hay or straw can be thrown over the top. Often, the trap can be positioned with the entrance facing a rat hole, fitting it so closely that rats can’t pass through without entering the trap. If a single rat is caught, it can be left in the trap as bait to attract others.
Notwithstanding the fact that sometimes a large number of rats may be taken at a time in cage traps, a few good guillotine traps intelligently used will prove more effective in the long run.
Even though a lot of rats can be caught at once in cage traps, a few well-placed guillotine traps used wisely will be more effective in the long run.
Figure-4 trigger trap.—The old-fashioned box trap set with a figure-4 trigger is sometimes useful to secure a wise old rat that refuses to be enticed into a modern trap. Better still is a simple deadfall[Pg 14]—a flat stone or a heavy plank—supported by a figure-4 trigger. An old rat will go under such a contrivance to feed without fear.
Figure-4 trigger trap.—The classic box trap with a figure-4 trigger can sometimes effectively catch a clever old rat that won’t go for a modern trap. Even better is a basic deadfall[Pg 14]—a flat rock or a heavy board—held up by a figure-4 trigger. An old rat will often venture under this setup to feed without any worry.
Steel trap.—The ordinary steel trap (No. 0 or 1) may sometimes be satisfactorily employed to capture a rat. The animal is usually caught by the foot, and its squealing has a tendency to frighten other rats. The trap may be set in a shallow pan or box and covered with bran or oats, care being taken to have the space under the trigger pan free of grain. This may be done by placing a very little cotton under the trigger and setting as lightly as possible. In a narrow run or at the mouth of a burrow a steel trap unbaited and covered with very light cloth or tissue paper is often effective.
Steel trap.—The regular steel trap (No. 0 or 1) can sometimes be effectively used to catch a rat. The rat is usually caught by the foot, and its squealing can intimidate other rats. The trap can be placed in a shallow pan or box and covered with bran or oats, making sure that the area under the trigger pan is free of grain. This can be achieved by putting a small piece of cotton under the trigger and setting the trap as lightly as possible. In a narrow pathway or at the entrance of a burrow, an unbaited steel trap covered with very light cloth or tissue paper is often effective.
The best bait usually is food of a kind that the rats and mice do not get in the vicinity. In a meat market, vegetables or grain should be used; in a feed store, meat. As far as possible food other than the bait should be inaccessible while trapping is in progress. The bait should be kept fresh and attractive, and the kind changed when necessary. Baits and traps should be handled as little as possible.
The best bait is typically food that rats and mice can't find nearby. In a meat market, you should use vegetables or grains; in a feed store, use meat. Try to keep food other than the bait out of reach while you're trapping. The bait should be kept fresh and appealing, and you should change it up when needed. Baits and traps should be handled as little as possible.

Barrel trap.—About 60 years ago a writer in the Cornhill Magazine gave details of a trap, by means of which it was claimed that 3,000 rats were caught in a warehouse in a single night. The plan involved tolling the rats to the place and feeding them for several nights on the tops of barrels covered with coarse brown paper. Afterwards a cross was cut in the paper, so that the rats fell into the barrel (fig. 9 (1)). Many variations of the plan, but few improvements upon it, have been suggested by agricultural writers since that time. Reports are frequently made of large catches of rats by means of a barrel fitted with a light cover of wood, hinged on a rod so as to turn with the weight of a rat (fig. 9 (2)).
Barrel trap.—About 60 years ago, a writer in the Cornhill Magazine described a trap that allegedly caught 3,000 rats in a warehouse in just one night. The method involved luring the rats to the location and feeding them for several nights on the tops of barrels covered with coarse brown paper. Later, a cross was cut in the paper, causing the rats to fall into the barrel (fig. 9 (1)). Many variations of this plan have been suggested by agricultural writers since then, but few have improved on it. There are often reports of large rat catches using a barrel with a lightweight wooden cover, hinged on a rod so it tips with the weight of a rat (fig. 9 (2)).

[Pg 15] Pit trap.—A modification of the barrel trap is the pit trap (fig. 10). This consists of a stout narrow box sunk in the ground so that the top is level with the rat run. It is fixed with a cover of light wood or metal in two sections, the sections fitting nicely inside the box and working independently. They turn on rods, to which they are fastened. They are weighted near the ends of the box and so adjusted that they swing easily. An animal stepping upon the cover beyond the rods is precipitated into the box, while the cover immediately swings back to its place. Besides rats, the trap is well adapted to capture larger animals, as minks, raccoons, opossums, and cats. It is especially useful to protect poultry yards, game preserves, and the like. The trap should be placed along the fence outside the yard, and behind a shelter of boards or brush that leans against the fence.
[Pg 15] Pit trap.—A variation of the barrel trap is the pit trap (fig. 10). This consists of a sturdy, narrow box buried in the ground so that the top is level with the rat path. It has a cover made of lightweight wood or metal with two sections that fit nicely inside the box and operate independently. They pivot on rods to which they are attached. The ends of the box are weighted, allowing them to swing easily. When an animal steps on the cover beyond the rods, it falls into the box, while the cover quickly swings back into place. In addition to rats, this trap effectively captures larger animals like minks, raccoons, opossums, and cats. It is particularly valuable for protecting poultry yards, game preserves, and similar areas. The trap should be placed along the fence outside the yard and behind a shelter made of boards or brush leaning against the fence.
Fence and battue.—In the rice fields of the Far East the natives build numerous piles of brush and rice straw, and leave them for several days until many rats have taken shelter in them. A portable bamboo inclosure several feet in height is then set up around each pile in succession and the straw and brush are thrown out over the top, while dogs and men kill the trapped rodents. Large numbers are destroyed in this way, and the plan with modifications may be utilized in America with satisfactory results. A wire netting of fine mesh may be used for the inclosure. The scheme is applicable at the removal of grain, straw, or haystacks, as well as brush piles.
Fence and battue.—In the rice fields of the Far East, locals build many piles of brush and rice straw and leave them for several days until rats take shelter in them. A portable bamboo enclosure several feet high is then set up around each pile in turn, and the straw and brush are thrown out over the top while dogs and people kill the trapped rodents. Large numbers are destroyed this way, and the method, with some adjustments, can be successfully used in America. A wire netting with fine mesh can be used for the enclosure. This technique can also be applied when removing grain, straw, or haystacks, as well as brush piles.
In a large barn near Washington, a few years ago, piles of unhusked corn were left in the loft and were soon infested with rats. A wooden pen was set down surrounding the piles in turn and the corn thrown out until dogs were able to get at the rats. In this way several men and dogs killed 500 rats in a single day.
In a big barn near Washington a few years ago, heaps of unhusked corn were left in the loft and quickly got overrun by rats. A wooden fence was built around the piles, and the corn was tossed out until dogs could go after the rats. This way, several men and dogs managed to catch 500 rats in just one day.
POISONS.
While the use of poison is the best and quickest way to get rid of rats and mice, the odor from the dead animals makes the method impracticable in occupied houses. Poisons may be effectively used in barns, stables, sheds, cribs, and other outbuildings.
While using poison is the quickest way to eliminate rats and mice, the smell from the dead animals makes this method impractical in homes. Poisons can be effectively used in barns, stables, sheds, cribs, and other outbuildings.
Caution.—In the United States there are few laws which prohibit the laying of poisons on lands owned or controlled by the poisoner. Hence it is all the more necessary to exercise extreme caution to prevent accidents. In several States notice of intention to lay poison must be given to persons living in the neighborhood. Poison for rats should never be placed in open or unsheltered places. This applies particularly to strychnin or arsenic on meat. Packages containing poisons should always bear a warning label and should not be kept where children might reach them.
Caution.—In the United States, there are few laws that prevent people from putting poisons on their own land. Therefore, it's even more important to be very careful to avoid accidents. In several states, you must notify nearby residents if you plan to lay poison. Poison for rats should never be placed in open or unprotected areas. This is especially true for strychnine or arsenic on meat. Packages with poisons should always have warning labels and should not be stored where kids can get to them.
[Pg 16] Among the principal poisons that have been recommended for killing rats and mice are barium carbonate, strychnin, arsenic, phosphorus, and squills.
[Pg 16] Some of the main poisons that have been suggested for killing rats and mice include barium carbonate, strychnine, arsenic, phosphorus, and squills.
Barium carbonate.—One of the cheapest and most effective poisons for rats and mice is barium carbonate. This mineral has the advantage of being without taste or smell. It has a corrosive action on the mucous lining of the stomach and is dangerous to larger animals if taken in sufficient quantity. In the small doses fed to rats and mice it would be harmless to domestic animals. Its action upon rats is slow, and if exit is possible the animals usually leave the premises in search of water. For this reason the poison may frequently, though not always, be used in houses without disagreeable consequences.
Barium carbonate.—One of the least expensive and most effective poisons for rats and mice is barium carbonate. This mineral has the advantage of being tasteless and odorless. It corrosively affects the mucous lining of the stomach and can be harmful to larger animals if consumed in large amounts. When given in small doses to rats and mice, it is harmless to pets. Its effect on rats is gradual, and if they can get out, they usually leave the area in search of water. Because of this, the poison can often, though not always, be used in homes without unpleasant effects.
Barium carbonate may be fed in the form of dough composed of four parts of meal or flour and one part of the mineral. A more convenient bait is ordinary oatmeal with about one-eighth of its bulk of the mineral, mixed with water into a stiff dough. A third plan is to spread the barium carbonate upon fish, toasted bread (moistened), or ordinary bread and butter. The prepared bait should be placed in rat runs, about a teaspoonful at a place. If a single application of the poison fails to kill or drive away all rats from the premises, it should be repeated with a change of bait.
Barium carbonate can be mixed into a dough made of four parts flour and one part mineral. A more convenient option is regular oatmeal mixed with about one-eighth of its amount in mineral, combined with water to form a stiff dough. Another method is to sprinkle barium carbonate on fish, toasted bread (moistened), or regular buttered bread. The bait should be positioned in rat pathways, using about a teaspoonful at each spot. If one application of the poison doesn’t eliminate or scare off all the rats, it should be repeated with a different bait.
Strychnin.—Strychnin is too rapid in action to make its use for rats desirable in houses, but elsewhere it may be employed effectively. Strychnia sulphate is the best form to use. The dry crystals may be inserted in small pieces of raw meat, Vienna sausage, or toasted cheese, and these placed in rat runs or burrows; or oatmeal may be moistened with a strychnin sirup and small quantities laid in the same way.
Strychnine.—Strychnine works too quickly to be a good choice for controlling rats in homes, but it can be used effectively in other places. Strychnia sulfate is the best form to use. The dry crystals can be mixed into small pieces of raw meat, Vienna sausage, or toasted cheese, and then placed in rat pathways or burrows; alternatively, oatmeal can be dampened with a strychnine syrup, and small amounts can be laid out in the same way.
Strychnin sirup is prepared as follows: Dissolve a half ounce of strychnia sulphate in a pint of boiling water; add a pint of thick sugar sirup and stir thoroughly. A smaller quantity may be prepared with a proportional quantity of water and sirup. In preparing the bait it is necessary to moisten all the oatmeal with the sirup. Wheat and corn are excellent alternative baits. The grain should be soaked overnight in the strychnin sirup.
Strychnine syrup is made like this: Dissolve half an ounce of strychnine sulfate in a pint of boiling water, then add a pint of thick sugar syrup and mix well. You can also make a smaller amount using proportionate amounts of water and syrup. When making the bait, it's important to moisten all the oatmeal with the syrup. Wheat and corn are great alternative baits. The grain should be soaked overnight in the strychnine syrup.
Arsenic.—Arsenic is probably the most popular of the rat poisons, owing to its cheapness, yet our experiments prove that, measured by the results obtained, arsenic is dearer than strychnin. Besides, arsenic is extremely variable in its effect upon rats, and if the animals survive a first dose it is very difficult to induce them to take another.
Arsenic.—Arsenic is likely the most widely used rat poison because it's inexpensive, but our experiments show that, based on the results, arsenic is more costly than strychnine. Additionally, arsenic has highly variable effects on rats, and if the animals survive the first dose, it becomes very hard to get them to take another one.
Powdered white arsenic (arsenious acid) may be fed to rats in almost any of the baits mentioned under barium carbonate and strychnin. It has been used successfully when rubbed into fresh fish or spread on buttered toast. Another method is to mix twelve [Pg 17] parts by weight of corn meal and one part of arsenic with whites of eggs into a stiff dough.
Powdered white arsenic (arsenious acid) can be given to rats in nearly any of the baits listed under barium carbonate and strychnine. It has been effective when rubbed into fresh fish or spread on buttered toast. Another method is to combine twelve [Pg 17] parts by weight of cornmeal with one part of arsenic and the whites of eggs to make a stiff dough.
An old formula for poisoning rats and mice with arsenic is the following, adapted from an English source:
An old formula for poisoning rats and mice with arsenic is the following, adapted from an English source:
Take a pound of oatmeal, a pound of coarse brown sugar, and a spoonful of arsenic. Mix well together and put the composition into an earthen jar. Put a tablespoonful at a place in runs frequented by rats.
Take a pound of oatmeal, a pound of coarse brown sugar, and a spoonful of arsenic. Mix everything together and put it into a clay jar. Put a tablespoonful in areas where rats often run.
Phosphorus.—For poisoning rats and mice, phosphorus is used almost as commonly as arsenic, and undoubtedly it is effective when given in an attractive bait. The phosphorus paste of the drug stores is usually dissolved yellow phosphorus, mixed with glucose or other substances. The proportion of phosphorus varies from one-fourth of 1 per cent to 4 per cent. The first amount is too small to be always effective and the last is dangerously inflammable. When homemade preparations of phosphorus are used there is much danger of burning the person or of setting fire to crops or buildings. In the Western States many fires have resulted from putting out homemade phosphorus poisons for ground squirrels, and entire fields of ripe grain have been destroyed in this way. Even with commercial pastes the action of sun and rain changes the phosphorus and leaches out the glucose until a highly inflammable residue is left.
Phosphorus.—Phosphorus is used for poisoning rats and mice almost as often as arsenic, and it’s definitely effective when mixed into an appealing bait. The phosphorus paste from drugstores typically contains yellow phosphorus, combined with glucose or other substances. The phosphorus content can range from a quarter of 1 percent to 4 percent. The lower amount is often not strong enough to be effective, while the higher concentration is extremely flammable. When homemade phosphorus mixtures are used, there is a significant risk of burning someone or starting fires in crops or buildings. In the Western States, many fires have occurred due to homemade phosphorus poisons being used for ground squirrels, resulting in entire fields of ripe grain being ruined. Even with commercial pastes, exposure to sun and rain alters the phosphorus and washes out the glucose, leaving behind a highly flammable residue.
It is often claimed that phosphorus eaten by rats or mice dries up or mummifies the body so that no odor results. The statement has no foundation in fact. No known poison will prevent decomposition of the body of an animal that died from its effects. Equally misleading is the statement that rats poisoned with phosphorus do not die on the premises. Owing to its slower operation, no doubt a larger portion escape into the open before dying than when strychnin is used.
It’s often said that phosphorus consumed by rats or mice dries out or mummifies the body, so there’s no odor. This claim has no basis in fact. No known poison can stop the decomposition of an animal that has died from its effects. Similarly misleading is the idea that rats poisoned with phosphorus don’t die on the premises. Due to its slower action, it’s likely that more of them escape outside before dying compared to when strychnine is used.
The Biological Survey does not recommend the use of phosphorus as a poison for rodents.
The Biological Survey does not suggest using phosphorus as a poison for rodents.
Squills.—The squill, or sea leek,[6] is a favorite rat poison in many parts of Europe and is well worthy of trial in America. It is rapid and very deadly in its action, and rats seem to eat it readily. The poison is used in several ways. Two ounces of dry squills, powdered, may be thoroughly mixed with eight ounces of toasted cheese or of butter and meal and put out in runs of rats or mice. Another formula recommends two parts of squills to three parts of finely chopped bacon, mixed with meal enough to make it cohere. This is baked in small cakes.
Squills.—The squill, or sea leek,[6] is a popular rat poison in many parts of Europe and is definitely worth trying in America. It acts quickly and is extremely deadly, and rats seem to eat it without hesitation. The poison can be used in several ways. Two ounces of dried squills, powdered, can be thoroughly mixed with eight ounces of toasted cheese or butter and meal, then placed in the paths of rats or mice. Another method suggests mixing two parts of squills with three parts of finely chopped bacon and enough meal to hold it together. This mixture is then baked into small cakes.
Poison in poultry houses.—For poisoning rats in buildings and yards occupied by poultry the following method is recommended: Two [Pg 18] wooden boxes should be used, one considerably larger than the other and each having one or more holes in the sides large enough to admit rats. The poisoned bait should be placed on the bottom and near the middle of the smaller box, and the larger box should then be inverted over it. Rats thus have free access to the bait, but fowls are excluded.
Poison in poultry houses.—To poison rats in buildings and yards where poultry is kept, the following method is recommended: Two [Pg 18] wooden boxes should be used, one significantly larger than the other, each with one or more holes in the sides that are big enough for rats to get through. The poisoned bait should be placed in the bottom and close to the middle of the smaller box, and then the larger box should be flipped over it. This way, rats can access the bait freely, but the poultry are kept out.
DOMESTIC ANIMALS.
Among domestic animals employed to kill rats are the dog, the cat, and the ferret.
Among domestic animals used to catch rats are the dog, the cat, and the ferret.
Dogs.—The value of dogs as ratters can not be appreciated by persons who have had no experience with a trained animal. The ordinary cur and the larger breeds of dogs seldom develop the necessary qualities for ratters. Small Irish, Scotch, and fox terriers, when properly trained, are superior to other breeds and under favorable circumstances may be relied upon to keep the farm premises reasonably free from rats.
Dogs.—People who haven't worked with a trained dog can't really understand how valuable they are for catching rats. Most common mutts and even bigger dog breeds usually don't have the right traits for this task. However, small Irish, Scotch, and fox terriers, when trained properly, are better than other breeds and can be depended on to keep farm areas relatively free of rats when the conditions are good.
Cats.—However valuable cats may be as mousers, few learn to catch rats. The ordinary house cat is too well fed and consequently too lazy to undertake the capture of an animal as formidable as the brown rat. Birds and mice are much more to its liking. Cats that are fearless of rats, however, and have learned to hunt and destroy them are often very useful about stables and warehouses. They should be lightly fed, chiefly on milk. A little sulphur in the milk at intervals is a corrective against the bad effects of a constant rat or mouse diet. Cats often die from eating these rodents.
Cats.—As valuable as cats can be for catching mice, very few actually learn to catch rats. The typical house cat is too well-fed and therefore too lazy to take on an animal as tough as the brown rat. They prefer birds and mice instead. However, cats that aren’t afraid of rats and know how to hunt and eliminate them can be really helpful around stables and warehouses. They should be fed lightly, mainly with milk. Adding a little sulfur to the milk occasionally can help counteract the negative effects of a steady diet of rats or mice. Cats often die from eating these rodents.
Ferrets.—Tame ferrets, like weasels, are inveterate foes of rats, and can follow the rodents into their retreats. Under favorable circumstances they are useful aids to the rat catcher, but their value is greatly overestimated. For effective work they require experienced handling and the additional services of a dog or two. Dogs and ferrets must be thoroughly accustomed to each other, and the former must be quiet and steady instead of noisy and excitable. The ferret is used only to bolt the rats, which are killed by the dogs. If unmuzzled ferrets are sent into rat retreats, they are apt to make a kill and then lie up after sucking the blood of their victim. Sometimes they remain for hours in the burrows or escape by other exits and are lost. There is danger that these lost ferrets may adapt themselves to wild conditions and become a pest by preying upon poultry and birds.
Ferrets.—Tame ferrets, like weasels, are relentless enemies of rats and can track the rodents back to their hiding spots. They can be helpful for rat catchers under the right conditions, but their usefulness is often overhyped. To be effective, they need to be handled by someone experienced and usually require the help of one or two dogs. The dogs and ferrets need to be well-acquainted with each other, and the dogs should be calm and steady instead of loud and jumpy. The ferret's role is only to flush out the rats, which are then caught by the dogs. If ferrets are sent into rat dens without muzzles, they may kill a rat and then stay inside to drink its blood. Sometimes they can stay in the burrows for hours or find other ways to escape and get lost. There’s a risk that these lost ferrets could adapt to the wild and become a nuisance by preying on chickens and birds.
FUMIGATION.
Rats may be destroyed in their burrows in the fields and along river banks, levees, and dikes by carbon bisulphid.[7] A wad of cot[Pg 19]ton or other absorbent material is saturated with the liquid and then pushed into the burrow, the opening being packed with earth to prevent the escape of the gas. All animals in the burrow are asphyxiated. Fumigation in buildings is not so satisfactory, because it is difficult to confine the gases. Moreover, when effective, the odor from the dead rats is highly objectionable in occupied buildings.
Rats can be eliminated from their burrows in fields and along riverbanks, levees, and dikes using carbon bisulfide.[7] A wad of cotton or another absorbent material is soaked in the liquid and then inserted into the burrow, with the entrance sealed off with soil to prevent the gas from escaping. All animals in the burrow are suffocated. Fumigating buildings is less effective because it's hard to keep the gases contained. Additionally, when it does work, the smell from the dead rats is really unpleasant in spaces that are still being used.
Chlorin, carbon monoxid, sulphur dioxid, and hydrocyanic acid are the gases most used for destroying rats and mice in sheds, warehouses, and stores. Each is effective if the gas can be confined and made to reach the retreats of the animals. Owing to the great danger from fire incident to burning charcoal or sulphur in open pans, a special furnace provided with means for forcing the gas into the compartments of vessels or buildings is generally employed.
Chlorine, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, and hydrocyanic acid are the most commonly used gases for killing rats and mice in sheds, warehouses, and stores. Each one is effective if the gas can be contained and can reach the animals' hiding places. Due to the high fire risk associated with burning charcoal or sulfur in open pans, a specialized furnace designed to push the gas into different areas of vessels or buildings is usually used.
Hydrocyanic-acid gas is effective in destroying all animal life in buildings. It has been successfully used to free elevators and warehouses of rats, mice, and insects. However, it is so dangerous to human life that the novice should not attempt fumigation with it, except under careful instructions. Directions for preparing and using the gas may be found in a publication entitled Hydrocyanic-acid Gas against Household Insects, by Dr. L. O. Howard and Charles H. Popenoe.[8]
Hydrocyanic acid gas is effective at killing all animal life in buildings. It has been successfully used to clear out elevators and warehouses of rats, mice, and insects. However, it is so dangerous to humans that beginners should not attempt fumigation with it unless they have detailed instructions. You can find directions for preparing and using the gas in a publication titled Hydrocyanic Acid Gas against Household Insects, by Dr. L. O. Howard and Charles H. Popenoe.[8]
Carbon monoxid is rather dangerous, as its presence in the hold of a vessel or other compartment is not manifest to the senses, and fatal accidents have occurred during its employment to fumigate vessels.
Carbon monoxide is quite dangerous since you can't detect it with your senses in the hold of a ship or any other compartment. Fatal accidents have happened when it was used to fumigate ships.
Chlorin gas has a strong bleaching action upon textile fabrics, and for this reason can not be used in many situations.
Chlorine gas has a powerful bleaching effect on fabric, which is why it can't be used in many situations.
Sulphur dioxid also has a bleaching effect upon textiles, but less marked than that of chlorin, and ordinarily it is not noticeable with the small percentage of the gas it is necessary to use. On the whole, this gas has many advantages as a fumigator and disinfectant. It is used also as a fire extinguisher on board vessels. Special furnaces for generating the gas and forcing it into the compartments of ships and buildings are on the market, and many steamships and docks are now fitted with the necessary apparatus.
Sulfur dioxide also has a bleaching effect on fabrics, but it's not as strong as chlorine, and usually, it's not noticeable with the small amounts of gas that need to be used. Overall, this gas has many benefits as a fumigator and disinfectant. It's also used as a fire extinguisher on ships. There are special furnaces available for generating the gas and pumping it into the compartments of ships and buildings, and many steamships and docks are now equipped with the necessary equipment.
RAT VIRUSES.
Several microorganisms, or bacteria, found originally in diseased rats or mice, have been exploited for destroying rats. A number of these so-called rat viruses are on the American market. The Biological Survey, the Bureau of Animal Industry, and the United States Public Health Service have made careful investigations and practical tests of these viruses, mostly with negative results. The cultures tested by the Biological Survey have not proved satisfactory.
Several microorganisms, or bacteria, originally found in sick rats or mice, have been used to eliminate rats. Several of these so-called rat viruses are available on the American market. The Biological Survey, the Bureau of Animal Industry, and the United States Public Health Service have conducted thorough investigations and practical tests of these viruses, mostly with negative outcomes. The cultures tested by the Biological Survey have not been satisfactory.
The chief defects to be overcome before the cultures can be recommended for general use are:
The main issues that need to be addressed before the cultures can be suggested for general use are:
[Pg 20] 1. The virulence is not great enough to kill a sufficiently high percentage of rats that eat food containing the microorganisms.
[Pg 20] 1. The strength of the disease isn’t enough to kill a significant percentage of rats that consume food with the microorganisms.
2. The virulence decreases with the age of the cultures. They deteriorate in warm weather and in bright sunlight.
2. The strength of the virus decreases as the cultures age. They break down in warm weather and bright sunlight.
3. The diseases resulting from the microorganisms are not contagious and do not spread by contact of diseased with healthy animals.
3. The illnesses caused by microorganisms aren't contagious and don't spread through contact between sick and healthy animals.
4. The comparative cost of the cultures is too great for general use. Since they have no advantages over the common poisons, except that they are usually harmless to man and other animals, they should be equally cheap; but their actual cost is much greater. Moreover, considering the skill and care necessary in their preparation, it is doubtful if the cost can be greatly reduced.
4. The comparison of the costs of these cultures is too high for general use. Since they don't offer any benefits over common poisons, apart from being mostly safe for people and other animals, they should be just as cheap; however, their actual cost is significantly higher. Furthermore, given the expertise and attention required for their preparation, it's unlikely that the cost can be significantly lowered.
The Department of Agriculture, therefore, does not prepare, use, or recommend the use of rat viruses.
The Department of Agriculture, therefore, does not prepare, use, or recommend the use of rat viruses.
NATURAL ENEMIES OF RATS AND MICE.
Among the natural enemies of rats and mice are the larger hawks and owls, skunks, foxes, coyotes, weasels, minks, dogs, cats, and ferrets.
Among the natural predators of rats and mice are larger hawks and owls, skunks, foxes, coyotes, weasels, minks, dogs, cats, and ferrets.
Probably the greatest factor in the increase of rats, mice, and other destructive rodents in the United States has been the persistent killing off of the birds and mammals that prey upon them. Animals that on the whole are decidedly beneficial, since they subsist upon harmful insects and rodents, are habitually destroyed by some farmers and sportsmen because they occasionally kill a chicken or a game bird.
Probably the biggest reason for the increase in rats, mice, and other destructive rodents in the United States has been the continuous killing of birds and mammals that hunt them. Animals that are generally quite helpful, as they feed on harmful insects and rodents, are often killed by some farmers and hunters because they sometimes take a chicken or a game bird.
The value of carnivorous mammals and the larger birds of prey in destroying rats and mice should be more fully recognized, especially by the farmer and the game preserver. Rats actually destroy more poultry and game, both eggs and young chicks, than all the birds and wild mammals combined; yet some of their enemies among our most useful birds of prey and carnivorous mammals are persecuted almost to the point of extinction. An enlightened public sentiment should cause the repeal of all bounties on these animals and afford protection to the majority of them.
The importance of carnivorous mammals and large birds of prey in controlling rat and mouse populations should be better acknowledged, especially by farmers and gamekeepers. Rats actually cause more damage to poultry and game, including eggs and young chicks, than all the birds and wild mammals combined; yet some of their natural predators among our most beneficial birds of prey and carnivorous mammals are being hunted nearly to extinction. An informed public opinion should lead to the removal of all bounties on these animals and provide protection for most of them.
ORGANIZED EFFORTS TO DESTROY RATS.
The necessity of cooperation and organization in the work of rat destruction is of the utmost importance. To destroy all the animals on the premises of a single farmer in a community has little permanent value, since they are soon replaced from near-by farms. If, however, the farmers of an entire township or county unite in efforts to get rid of rats, much more lasting results may be attained. If continued from year to year, such organized efforts are very effective.
The need for teamwork and organization in rat control is extremely important. Destroying all the rats on one farmer's property provides little lasting benefit, as they are quickly replaced by those from nearby farms. However, if the farmers in a whole township or county join forces to eliminate rats, they can achieve much more lasting results. When these organized efforts continue year after year, they are highly effective.
COMMUNITY EFFORTS.
Cooperative efforts to destroy rats have taken various forms in different localities. In cities, municipal employees have occasionally been set at work hunting rats from their retreats, with at least temporary benefit to the community. Thus, in 1904, at Folkestone, England, a town of about 25,000 inhabitants, the corporation employees, helped by dogs, in three days killed 1,645 rats.
Cooperative efforts to eliminate rats have taken different forms in various places. In cities, municipal workers have sometimes been deployed to hunt rats from their hiding spots, providing at least temporary relief to the community. For instance, in 1904, in Folkestone, England, a town with around 25,000 residents, corporation employees, aided by dogs, killed 1,645 rats in just three days.
Side hunts in which rats are the only animals that count in the contest have sometimes been organized and successfully carried out. At New Burlington, Ohio, a rat hunt took place some years ago in which each of the two sides killed over 8,000 rats, the beaten party serving a banquet to the winners.
Side hunts where only rats are counted in the contest have occasionally been organized and successfully completed. In New Burlington, Ohio, a rat hunt happened a few years back where each of the two teams killed over 8,000 rats, and the losing team hosted a banquet for the winners.
There is danger that organized rat hunts will be followed by long intervals of indifference and inaction. This may be prevented by offering prizes covering a definite period of effort. Such prizes accomplish more than municipal bounties, because they secure a friendly rivalry which stimulates the contestants to do their utmost to win.
There’s a risk that organized rat hunts might be followed by long stretches of apathy and inaction. This can be avoided by providing prizes that cover a specific period of effort. These prizes achieve more than city bounties because they create a friendly competition that encourages participants to give their best to win.
In England and some of its colonies contests for prizes have been organized to promote the destruction of the English, or house, sparrow, but many of the so-called sparrow clubs are really sparrow and rat clubs, for the destruction of both pests is the avowed object of the organizations. A sparrow club in Kent, England, accomplished the destruction of 28,000 sparrows and 16,000 rats in three seasons by the annual expenditure of but £6 ($29.20) in prize money. Had ordinary bounties been paid for this destruction, the tax on the community would have been about £250 (over $1,200).
In England and some of its colonies, competitions have been set up to encourage the eradication of the English, or house, sparrow. However, many of these so-called sparrow clubs are actually both sparrow and rat clubs because they aim to eliminate both pests. One sparrow club in Kent, England, managed to kill 28,000 sparrows and 16,000 rats over three seasons, spending only £6 ($29.20) in prize money each year. If standard bounties had been paid for this eradication, the community would have faced a tax of about £250 (over $1,200).
Many organizations already formed should be interested in destroying rats. Boards of trade, civic societies, and citizens' associations in towns and farmers' and women's clubs in rural communities will find the subject of great importance. Women's municipal leagues in several large cities already have taken up the matter. The league in Baltimore recently secured appropriations of funds for expenditure in fighting mosquitoes, flies, and rats. The league in Boston during the past year, supported by voluntary contributions for the purpose, made a highly creditable educational campaign against rats. Boys' corn clubs, the troops of Boy Scouts, and similar organizations could do excellent work in rat campaigns.
Many organizations that already exist should be interested in getting rid of rats. Trade boards, civic societies, and community associations in towns along with farmers' and women's clubs in rural areas will find this topic very important. Women's municipal leagues in several large cities have already addressed this issue. The league in Baltimore recently secured funds to spend on fighting mosquitoes, flies, and rats. The league in Boston, supported by voluntary donations over the past year, conducted a commendable educational campaign against rats. Boys' corn clubs, Boy Scout troops, and similar organizations could do great work in rat control efforts.
STATE AND NATIONAL AID.
To secure permanent results any general campaign for the elimination of rats must aim at building the animals out of shelter and food. Building reforms depend on municipal ordinances and legislative [Pg 22] enactments. The recent plague eradication work of the United States Public Health Service in San Francisco, Seattle, New Orleans, and at various places in Hawaii and Porto Rico required such ordinances and laws as well as financial aid in prosecuting the work. The campaign of Danish and Swedish organizations for the destruction of rats had the help of governmental appropriations. The legislatures of California, Texas, Indiana, and Hawaii have in recent years passed laws or made appropriations to aid in rat riddance. It is probable that well-organized efforts of communities would soon win legislative support everywhere. Communities should not postpone efforts, however, while waiting for legislative cooperation, but should at once organize and begin repressive operations. Wherever health is threatened the Public Health Service of the United States can cooperate, and where crops and other products are endangered the Bureau of Biological Survey of the Department of Agriculture is ready to assist by advice and in demonstration of methods.
To achieve lasting results, any general campaign to eliminate rats must focus on removing their shelter and food sources. Effective reforms rely on local laws and legislative [Pg 22] measures. The recent efforts by the United States Public Health Service to eradicate plague in cities like San Francisco, Seattle, New Orleans, and various locations in Hawaii and Puerto Rico required these laws and ordinances, along with funding to carry out the work. The campaigns by Danish and Swedish organizations to exterminate rats were supported by government funding. In recent years, the legislatures of California, Texas, Indiana, and Hawaii have passed laws or allocated funds to help eliminate rats. It’s likely that well-organized community efforts would quickly gain legislative backing everywhere. However, communities shouldn’t wait for legislative support to take action; they should immediately organize and start control measures. Whenever health is at risk, the Public Health Service of the United States can collaborate, and where crops and other products are threatened, the Bureau of Biological Survey of the Department of Agriculture is available to provide advice and demonstrate methods.
IMPORTANT REPRESSIVE MEASURES.
The measures needed for repressing and eliminating rats and mice include the following:
The steps required to control and get rid of rats and mice include the following:
1. The requirement that all new buildings erected shall be made rat-proof under competent inspection.
1. All new buildings must be built to be rat-proof and checked by a qualified inspector.
2. That all existing rat-proof buildings shall be closed against rats and mice by having all openings accessible to the animals, from foundation to roof, closed or screened by door, window, grating, or meshed wire netting.
2. All existing rat-proof buildings must be sealed off to prevent access by rats and mice. This means that any openings the animals could use, from the foundation to the roof, should be closed or covered with doors, windows, grates, or mesh wire netting.
3. That all buildings not of rat-proof construction shall be made so by remodeling, by the use of materials that may not be pierced by rats, or by elevation.
3. All buildings that aren't resistant to rats must be modified, either by remodeling, using materials that rats can't get through, or by raising them up.
4. The protection of our native hawks, owls, and smaller predatory mammals—the natural enemies of rats.
4. The protection of our native hawks, owls, and smaller predatory mammals—the natural predators of rats.
5. Greater cleanliness about markets, grocery stores, warehouses, courts, alleys, stables, and vacant lots in cities and villages, and like care on farms and suburban premises. This includes the storage of waste and garbage in tightly covered vessels and the prompt disposal of it each day.
5. Improved cleanliness in markets, grocery stores, warehouses, courts, alleys, stables, and empty lots in cities and villages, as well as similar care on farms and suburban properties. This involves keeping waste and garbage in tightly sealed containers and disposing of it promptly every day.
6. Care in the construction of drains and sewers, so as not to provide entrance and retreat for rats. Old brick sewers in cities should be replaced by concrete or tile.
6. Pay attention to how drains and sewers are built to avoid giving rats a way in and out. Old brick sewers in cities should be replaced with concrete or tile.
7. The early threshing and marketing of grains on farms, so that stacks and mows shall not furnish harborage and food for rats.
7. The early threshing and selling of grains on farms, so that stacks and mows do not provide shelter and food for rats.
8. Removal of outlying straw stacks and piles of trash or lumber that harbor rats in fields and vacant lots.
8. Getting rid of stray straw piles and trash or lumber that attract rats in fields and empty lots.
[Pg 23] 9. The keeping of provisions, seed grain, and foodstuffs in rat-proof containers.
[Pg 23] 9. Storing supplies, seed, and food in rat-proof containers.
10. Keeping effective rat dogs, especially on farms and in city warehouses.
10. Using effective rat dogs, especially on farms and in urban warehouses.
11. The systematic destruction of rats, whenever and wherever possible, by (a) trapping, (b) poisoning, and (c) organized hunts.
11. The organized elimination of rats, whenever and wherever feasible, through (a) trapping, (b) poisoning, and (c) organized hunts.
12. The organization of clubs and other societies for systematic warfare against rats.
12. The formation of clubs and other groups dedicated to organized efforts against rats.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Mus musculus.
__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ House mouse.
[2] Rattus norvegicus.
[3] Rattus rattus rattus.
[4] Rattus rattus alexandrinus.
[5] Farmers' Bulletin 461, Use of Concrete on the Farm, will prove useful to city and village dwellers as well as to the farmer.
[5] Farmers' Bulletin 461, Use of Concrete on the Farm, will be helpful to both city and town residents as well as to farmers.
[6] Scilla maritima.
[7] Caution.—Carbon disulphid is very inflammable and can be ignited by a match, lantern, cigar, or pipe.
[7] Warning.—Carbon disulfide is highly flammable and can catch fire from a match, lantern, cigar, or pipe.
[8] Farmers' Bulletin 699.
__A_TAG_PLACEHOLDER_0__ Farmers' Bulletin 699.
PUBLICATIONS OF THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE RELATING TO NOXIOUS MAMMALS.
AVAILABLE FOR FREE DISTRIBUTION.
How to Destroy Rats. (Farmers' Bulletin 369.)
How to Get Rid of Rats. (Farmers' Bulletin 369.)
The Common Mole of Eastern United States. (Farmers' Bulletin 583.)
The Common Mole of the Eastern United States. (Farmers' Bulletin 583.)
Field Mice as Farm and Orchard Pests. (Farmers' Bulletin 670.)
Field Mice as Farm and Orchard Pests. (Farmers' Bulletin 670.)
Cottontail Rabbits in Relation to Trees and Farm Crops. (Farmers' Bulletin 702.)
Cottontail Rabbits and Their Impact on Trees and Farm Crops. (Farmers' Bulletin 702.)
Trapping Moles and Utilizing Their Skins. (Farmers' Bulletin 832.)
Trapping Moles and Using Their Skins. (Farmers' Bulletin 832.)
Destroying Rodent Pests on the Farm. (Separate 708, Yearbook for 1916.)
Destroying Rodent Pests on the Farm. (Separate 708, Yearbook for 1916.)
FOR SALE BY THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS, GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, WASHINGTON, D. C.
Harmful and Beneficial Mammals of the Arid Interior, with Special Reference to the Carson and Humboldt Valleys, Nevada. (Farmers' Bulletin 335.) Price 5 cents.
Harmful and Helpful Mammals of the Arid Interior, Focusing on the Carson and Humboldt Valleys, Nevada. (Farmers' Bulletin 335.) Price 5 cents.
The Nevada Mouse Plague of 1907-8. (Farmers' Bulletin 352.) Price 5 cents.
The Nevada Mouse Plague of 1907-8. (Farmers' Bulletin 352.) Price: 5 cents.
Some Common Mammals of Western Montana in Relation to Agriculture and Spotted Fever. (Farmers' Bulletin 484.) Price 5 cents.
Some Common Mammals of Western Montana Related to Agriculture and Spotted Fever. (Farmers' Bulletin 484.) Price 5 cents.
Danger of Introducing Noxious Animals and Birds. (Separate 132, Yearbook 1898.) Price 5 cents.
Danger of Introducing Harmful Animals and Birds. (Separate 132, Yearbook 1898.) Price 5 cents.
Meadow Mice in Relation to Agriculture and Horticulture. (Separate 388, Yearbook 1905.) Price 5 cents.
Meadow Mice and Their Impact on Farming and Gardening. (Separate 388, Yearbook 1905.) Cost 5 cents.
Mouse Plagues, Their Control and Prevention. (Separate 482, Yearbook 1908.) Price—cents.
Mouse Plagues, Their Control and Prevention. (Separate 482, Yearbook 1908.) Price—cents.
Use of Poisons for Destroying Noxious Mammals. (Separate 491, Yearbook 1908.) Price 5 cents.
Use of Poisons to Eliminate Harmful Mammals. (Separate 491, Yearbook 1908.) Price 5 cents.
Pocket Gophers as Enemies of Trees. (Separate 506, Yearbook 1909.) Price 5 cents.
Pocket Gophers as Enemies of Trees. (Separate 506, Yearbook 1909.) Price 5 cents.
The Jack Rabbits of the United States. (Biological Survey Bulletin 8.) Price 10 cents.
The Jack Rabbits of the United States. (Biological Survey Bulletin 8.) Price 10 cents.
Economic Study of Field Mice, genus Microtus. (Biological Survey Bulletin 31.) Price 15 cents.
Economic Study of Field Mice, genus Microtus. (Biological Survey Bulletin 31.) Price: 15 cents.
The Brown Rat in the United States. (Biological Survey Bulletin 33.) Price 15 cents.
The Brown Rat in the United States. (Biological Survey Bulletin 33.) Price 15 cents.
Directions for the Destruction of Wolves and Coyotes. (Biological Survey Circular 55.) Price 5 cents.
Directions for Getting Rid of Wolves and Coyotes. (Biological Survey Circular 55.) Price 5 cents.
The California Ground Squirrel. (Biological Survey Circular 76.) Price 5 cents.
The California Ground Squirrel. (Biological Survey Circular 76.) Price 5 cents.
Seed-eating Mammals in Relation to Reforestation. (Biological Survey Circular 78.) Price 5 cents.
Seed-eating Mammals and Their Role in Reforestation. (Biological Survey Circular 78.) Price 5 cents.
Mammals of Bitterroot Valley, Montana, in Their Relation to Spotted Fever. (Biological Survey Circular 82.) Price 5 cents.
Mammals of Bitterroot Valley, Montana, and Their Connection to Spotted Fever. (Biological Survey Circular 82.) Price 5 cents.
Transcriber's Note
The following suspected errors have been changed in this text:
The following suspected errors have been changed in this text:
Page 11: "abbatoirs" changed to "abattoirs"
Page 11: Added missing "." to "Fig. 5."
Page 14: Added missing "." to "Fig. 10."
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